Glass. Book jO~C'o-i.<^ ^i£lii tlae IR ©lathes 1© THE SPmiNGH.NIAGAMA, &> QI^JEBBf\ ^ also — — - — -- J Si' J . HARPER. THE NORTHERN TRAVELLERt NORTHER]^ TOUR; WITH THE ROUTES TO THE SPRINGS, NIAGARA, AND QUEBFX\ AND THE COAL MINES OF PENNSYLVANIA; ALSO, THE TOUR OF NFAV-ENGLAND. I Embellished with, thirty-hvo Copperplate Engravings. FOURTH EDITION, REVISED AND EXTENDED, NEW-YORK PRINTED BY J. & J. HARPER, 82 Cliff-St. Sold by Collins & Hannay, Collins & Co., O. A. Roorbacli, W. B. Gilley, . E. Bliss, A . T. Goodricli, C. S. Francis, J. E. Belts, D. Felt, M'Elrath " & Bangs, N. B. Holmes, W. Burgess, J. W.Bleecker, J. Lea vitt ;— Alba- ny, O. Steele, and Little & Cummings ;— Utica, William Williams ;— Rochester, E. Peck «fe Co. ;— Canandaigua, Morse, Ward, & Co, :— Biif- "'aln, Pav, Fallett, &c Haskins. 1630- ■F7. ip D?Sf SeUTHERN DISTRICT OF NEW- YORK, ss. BE IT REMEMBERED, That on the twenty-second day of A pril,A.D. 1830, in the fifty-fourth year of the Independence of the United States of Anrierica, J. & J. Harper, of the said District, have deposited in this office the title of a Book, the right whereof they claim as proprietors, in the words following, to wit: "The Northern Traveller and Northern Tour, with the Routes to the Sprinss, Niagara, and Quebec, and the Coal Mines of Pennsylvania ; also, the Tour of NfW-Ensland. En bellished with thirty-two Copperplate Engravings. Fourth Edition, revised and extended." In conformity to the act of the Congress of the United States, entitled " An act for tiie encouragement of learning, by securing the copies of maps, charts, and books to the authors and proprieiors of such copies, during the times therein mentioned." And also to the act, entitled, " An act supplementary to an act, entitled an act for the encouragement of learning, by securing the copies of maps, charts, and books to the authors and proprietors of such copies, during the times therein mentioned, and extendintr the benefits thereof to the arts of designing, engraving, and rsrohing historical and other prints." FREDERICK I. BETTS, Hf^^k of the SovthfTv District of J\re?n- Ycrl:. FRESFACt:* Great exertions have been made to obtain ac- counts of all changes that have taken place on the various routes embraced within the range of the Northern Traveller, since the publication of the last edition, as well as to add all necessary remarks on such subjects as had before escaped notice ; and it will be found that few pages have been passed without the insertion of something new, while many have been entirely written over again, and consi- derable additions have been made. The rapid sale which may now be calculated on. in comiexion with other circumstances, have ena- bled the publishers, this season, to offer the work at a greatly reduced price, while additions have been made to its embellishments. The plan of the " Northern Traveller" was ori- ginally suggested by a reflection on the immense numbers of intelligent persons who annually visit the most interesting scenes in our Northern and Middle States ; and a knowledge of the great ad- vantages which are derived from ^vorks of a cor- responding description in Europe. No pains have been spared to render it useful, as well as interest- ing; and, as far as the necessary brevity would permit, the peculiar character of our citizens, and the nature of the country have been kept in viev in the plan and scope of thf^. work OKJVKRAL IJ^DKX. Page City of New-York ...... 9 From New- York to Niagara .... 20 « " to the Springs . . 20—55. 129 « " to Canada . . .do. do. « *' to Connecticut River and > ^^^ the White Mountains S " to Boston . . 246—258. 297 City of Philadelphia ...... 402 From Philadelphia to New- York . . ,432 " " to the Coal Mines . . 414 City of Boston . . • • • .318 From Boston to the Springs . . . .329 « " to the White Mountains . . 333 " " to Maine 362 City of Washington 383 City of Baltimore 389 VIEWS FROM NATURE. Congress Hall (facing title.) Scenery on the Mohawk River , . 5T Niagara, from below the Cataract . . .87 Ballston 145 Saratoga ......•» 153 Lake George . 166 Ticonderoga ,,,.... 179 Mount Holyoke ,278 The Notch or Willey House, (Wliite Mountains) 354 ^i/^kiiKAl- IISD1<.\ MAPS. Page General Map of the Routes .... 9 Hudson River, No. 1 . . . . . 20 " " No. 2 24 " No. 3 31 " " No. 4, Canals to Schenectady > .^ and Sandy HiU \ ' ^ Erie Canal, to Herkimer ..... 56 " " to Salina , .... 62 '^ to Rochester 68 " " to Lockport, and Road to Niagara 72 '« " to Buffalo 109 " to Lyons, and Road by Geneva, &c. 116 '' " to Syracuse, and Road by Auburn 121 lYom Fort Edward to Whitehall and Lake George 163 Lake George and Lake Champlain . . . 176 Lake Champlain » 190 St. John's to Montreal , , . . .194 Island of Montreal . . . . . . 206 St. Lawrence River, from Montreal to Quebec . 212 Connecticut River, from Hartford to the Mouth 256 3/(ip o^ the Heittfs Draim lor tl THE NORTHERN TRAVELI.ER. THE CITY OF NEW-YORK. Hotels and Boarding Houses. The Adelphi, opposite the Bowling-Green. Mansion House, (Bunker,) 39 Broadway. City Hotel. National Hotel.' Frank- lin House. American Hotel. Washington Hall, cor- ner of Broadway and Reed-street. Mrs. Southard, Mrs. Mann, Mrs. Keese, Mr. Storer, &c. There are also the U. S. Hotel, Tontine, Bank, and N. Y. Coffee Houses, Tammany Hall, Pearl-st. House, N. Y. Ho- tel, &c. The stranger is advised to purchase a pocket map of the city, if he is to remain here a few days ; as without it he will often find himself at a loss. The Battery is a pleasant walk in warm weather ; and Castle Garden has a fine promenade. On summer evenings the place is supplied with music, and often fireworks. Steamboats for Philadelphia. The boats of the Union and Citizen's Lines start from the wharf just north of the Battery, in Washington-street, at 6 A.M. and at noon. T/ie Staten Island Steamboats go from the foot of Whitehall-street, at the lower end of the Battery. Broadway, the most fashionable promenade in the city, is most crowded with passengers between 1 and 3 o'clock ; or, in hot weather, after dinner. Going up from the Battery, you pass the Bowling Green, a new hotel, called the Adelphi House, many genteel B lU tlTV OF :^EW-\.OKK. boarding houses, particularly the Mansion House ; Aud then Grace church, and Trinity church. The property of this church is very great, lying in large tracts of land now covered by the city streets. Opposite, opens Wall-street, which contains the first Presbyterian church, most of the banks, with the Branch of the U. S. Bank, together with numerous Insurance and Brokers'' Offices. The JVew-York Exchange. This building is of white marble from Westchester, and fronts Wall- street, between William and Pearl-streets. It has four marble columns in front, made of single shafts. The exchange room is large and resorted to by mer- chants between 1 and 3 o'clock. The building con- tains the Post Office on the ground floor, the Commer- cial Reading- Rooms above, with several Insurance Offices, and the offices of Daily Papers. There is a telegraph on tlie top to communicate Avith Sandy Hook, to get early intelh'gence of vessels. On arriving*, they show Hags by which they may be designated 30 miles from Staten Island. The view from the cupola embraces the wl^ole city. Returning to Broadway, beyond Trinity church is the City Hotel; opposite, the National Hotel; and h little further, Cec/ar and Courtlandt-streets, leading west to the docks on Hudson river, whence some of tlie Albany steam boats start. At the latter street is also the Jersey City Ferry — Is. The Franklin House, corner of Dey-st. and Broad- way. Fulton-street leads to Fulton Market, on the East river. (There is the lower Brooklyn ferry, 4 cents ; at the next dock below, are the Jyeza-port and Providence steamboats; and just above, f/jc steamboats for Flushing, JVorrva Ik, Stamford, Bridgeport, Stratford, New-London and jYorzivich.) St. PauVs Church in Broadway is next above Fulton- street. A monument was raised in the portico of this church some years ago, to General Montgomery ; and in 1818 the remains of that brave officer were brought OirV OF INEW'-VOJiK. 1 I iVom (c^uebec and deposited here, \\kh military honours. Just beyond, is Poffh exJdhitioii of Pictures, then the Park, on the opposite of which is the Theatre, near Avhich is Clinton Hall, and the Bible Society^a Depository* in the rear. In the same street [JVassau) is the American Tract Society''s building. f Park Place, on the left, where are Coleman's Literary Rooms and Exhibition, leads to Columbia College ; and the City Hall is in the Park, with the Debtor's Prison on the east, and Bridezs^ell on the west. Barclay -street leads to Hoboken ferry, and the Albany steamboats. The JVew-York Institution is behind the City Hall. The Savings Bank is on the opposite side of Cham- bers-street. [There were deposites made, in 1829, to the amount of $624,900, by 11,937 individuals, almost all poor persons.] Adjoining the latter are the JVew- York Baths and the Arcade Baths, which are commo- dious, ar.d well attended, wilh separate entrances leading to the ladies' baths. The Exhibition Ptoom of the National Academy of the Arts of Design and the Manhattan Water Works are just at hand. From the latter a considerable portion of the dwellings in the lower part of the city are supplied with water, though not of very good quality. The Court of Sessions is in the Rotunda, which was formerly devoted to Panoramas. [A short distance eastward. Chambers-street leads to Chatham-street : then turning to the left you may proceed to the Chatham Theatre, Chatham-square, the Bowery, tlie Bowery Theatre, &lc. k,c.] On the other hand. Chambers-street leads west- ward to the Hudson river ; and at the foot of Warren- street, next below it, is the Public Marine Bath. * Opposite the Depository, is a workshop, erected in 1827, where a «teaiii engine is seen on the first floor, which works ejjrht power presses, in wliicii bibles are priuled: on tlie second, uhovc, are twenty other ]iresses. 1'iie power piessns do double the work of the common press ; and all touether can print 400 reams of pajier in a week. S«v€nty-Gne persons are employed in this department. In iho other building the biiidini; is done by 112 persons. t In the American Tract Society's house are nr-'. mmmoti, and four ■M'.vor nres-ies. drixm. br niiiies. 12 CITY OF AEW-YORK. Returning:, and going on up Broadway, 5^ou pas-i Washington Hal). [Duane-street leads, on the left, to Rutgers' Medical College, and Public School, JVo. 1 1, on the ground floor of which is an Infant School.] Masonic Hall and the JVew-York Hospital are a little beyond ; and Scudder's Museum is to be removed to the corner of Anthony-street. This fifie broad street continues about a mile and a half further on, perfectly straight, and nearly all built with brick houses ; but contains no public buildings, except a new Goihic churcB. There is also in the city an Orphan Asylum. A tine part of the city lies north-west trom the hos- pital, about Hudson-square. The streets are there more regular, and the square itself is very fine, with St. John's church in front, which has the tallest spire in New-York. Among the other public buildings, which it is not easy to point out more particularly, are the Roman Catholic Cathedral, and the numerous places of public worship in all parts of the city. These amounted in 1824, to 84 in all, and are now above 100. The State Prison, Penitentiary, Fever Hospital, House of Refuge for juvenile delinquents. Lunatic Asylum: these are all at a distance from the centre of the city. Public Schools. The Public School Society have eight large brick houses in different parts of the city, averaging about 42 by 85 feet in size, valued with their furniture, at about $150,000 ; and the encum- brances, for money borrowed, about $50,000. About 5000 children are educated at these schools, most of whom pay a small sum, from 25 cents to $1,25 per quarter ; but none are excluded who are unable to pay. The schools are furnished with maps, globes, libraries, &c. and a uniform system, alter the Lancas- leridi plan, is adopted in them all.* Two of them * Common School Fund and Common Schools in the State of.lVew- York. — The foundation of the Common School Fund for the State of New- York was laid in the year 1809. and the first distribution of tlie incoine look place in ]81t!. UlTY OF :NEW-\OIiK. '^'^ .lie tor Africans. The Higfi^School receives scholars in higher branches. The Infant Schools are highly- interesting institutions. The Sunday Schools deserve particular notice for their usefulness ; also the Me- chanics' Society's School. The AthencBum is a literary institution lately- formed. The City Library is large, and there are others belonging to the Societies of Merchants' Clerks, Apprentices, &c. There are Circulating Libraries at several of the Bookstores in Broadway and else- Avhere. The Fire Engines are remarkable for their beauty and excellence, as the Fire Department is for its effi- ciency and usefulness. There are 47 engines, besides five tfook and Ladder companies. The City Hall contains the common council chamber, with portraits of Washington, Hamilton, Jefterson, and Thompson ; court rooms, the police The prnductive capital of this fund is invested in bonds and mortgages, canal and hank stncks, and now amount to $), 661,081, and produces aii income of about $95,000. T!)e Siate owns 880,000 acres of land, valued at $411,288, wliich lands Hre, by the Constitution of the State, i)ied«ed for the support of common schools. This gives a grand total of $2,042,113, exclusive of the local school fund, and of a larffe capital denoniiiiated the "Literary Fund:" the income from which is annually paid towards the support of colleges and academies. In 1829, $214,840 was paid towards the support of common schools — of this sum $100,000 was paid from the Stale Treasury, $11,905 from the income of the loan school fund, and $102,934 was raised by tax. The school la'.v requires that a sum shall be assessed on ihcjr taxable inhabitants equal to the sum wliich is paid from the State Treasury to each town, and by a vote at their town meetings double the amount may be raised by tax. There are 56 counties, 742 cities, towns, and wards, every one of which made detailed official returns of their schools to the Secretary of State, in 1827. The number of school districts was 8994, the schools in which contained, in 1827, 441,856 children, wiio were taught on an average G months. In 1829, 480,825 ciiildren were taught in the Common Scliools, at an expense to the public of $511,888 for teachers' pay alone. The private schools in the State of New- York are also very numerous, and it is a low estimate to suppose the sum of $500,000 is annually ex- pended in the state for schools. Tn 1828. 27fi..'i83 votes were polled in the state of New-York, 14 CITY OF NEW- YORK. office, &;c. &c. The top commands a fine view of the city ; and access may be had on applying to the keeper- The Liverpool, London, and Havre Packets are fine vessels, and some of them among the most ele- gantly furnished ships in the world. They lie at dif- ferent docks in the Last Hiver ; and the Liverpool sail on the 1st, 8th, 16th, and 24th of every month, and returning, leave Liverpool on the same days. The Havre packets sail on the 1st, 10th, and 20th. The letter bags are kept at the bar of the Tontine Coffee House. — 6c?, for every letter. Excursions.^ Numerous pleasant excursions may be made from New-York in various directions. Man- hattan Island affords several agreeable rides ; and also Long Island and the neighbouring parts of New-Jersey. Prince''s Linnosan Garden at Flushing. The ex- * Rates of Hacknaj Coackes.— By the 1st section of the law for regii- latuig Hackney CaniaKes, it is ordained that the rates or prices to be taken by the owners or drivers of hackney carriages on the stands therein mentioned, viz. Trinity Church and Park, for the conveyance of passen- gers, shall be as follows, viz, f cts. Fox any distance not exceeding one mile, for each person 00 25 For any distance over one mile, and within the Lamp and Watch District, for a single passenger 00 50 For two passengers, each 00 37 For each additional passenger 00 25 For attending a funeral in town 2 00 * For one or more passengers, not exceeding four, around the first, or Sandy Hill tour 1 00 For one or more passengers, not exceeding four, around the second, or Love Lane tour 2 00 For one or more passengers, not exceeding four, around the third, or Lake's tour .' 2 50 For one or more passengers, not exceeding four, aiound the fourtli, or Apthorp's tour 4 00 For one or more passengers, not exceeding four, to Harlaem and back .....4 00 For one or more passengers, not exceeding four, to King's Bridge and back, with the privilege of keeping the carriage all day 5 0(» And whenever Hackney Carriages shall be hired or paid by lime, or tleiained, the rates or prices shall be as follows : that is to say, For any time not exceeding one hour dols. 00 75 and in proportion for a greater or less time. Tlie penalty for denianding a higher fare than the preceding is Ten Sollars ; for refusing to be employed when disengaged, Ten Dollars ; syid for not ha^•ine a copy of the rat«sin ^ch carriage. Fifteen Dollars- SCnOOLEY S MOU? eursion to this beautiful garden and nursery is very pleasant. The Steamboat leaves Fulton-street Slip at hours particularized every day in the newspapers, and affords a view of the most interesting parts of the East River ; including the famous rapids at Hurl Gate. The village is small but pleasant. The garden of Mr. Prince will supply strangers of taste and science with rare seeds, plants, flowers, and trees, and has already done much to introduce useful and beautiful varieties into this countiy. It was first established about the middle of the last century. The 4 hot houses contain about 20,000 plants in pots : and the garden covers at least 30 acres. The specie?; and varieties of trees and plants amount to about 8000, which is considered the most numerous collection in America. The proprietor exerts himself to obtain all the native productions, as well as all interesting exotics, and for specimens forwarded to him he offers to make satisfactory returns from his own collection. He had, in 1827, 127 varieties of apples, 202 of pears, cherries 76, plums 139, and peaches 84. The JVavy Yard, at Brooklyn. See " East River. ''^ Bath, Rockaway and Gravesend, on Long Island, and Long^ Branch,^ (Hotels by Renshaw and Sears,) in New-Jersey, fine situations on the seacoast, are among the most attractive for bathing, &c. SCHOOLEY'S MOUNTAIN. This is a very fashionable resort during the warm season, particularly tor visiters from New- York. The situation is very pleasant, in a variegated tract of country ; and affords a most agreeable retreat, with fine air and good accommodations. At the city of New-York many travellers will com- * The American Navy consists of forty vessels : of which there are sfeven 74's, or ships of tlie hne ; seven 44's, or frigates of the first class ; three of the second class ; twelve sloops of war ; seven schooners, and other vessels. t This is a fasliionable resort. 16 Qiri OF AEW-VOliJv. mence their tours in different directions ; and a glance at the general Map of the Routes, on the preceding page, will assist them in laying their plans. The Union morn- ing line of steamboats is recommended for Philadelphia. The Lehigh Coal Mines may be visited by taking one of the steamboats to New-Brunswick, and there a stage coach ; or a stage coach from Jersey City. By that route the traveller may proceed north to the line of the Erie Canal, or by the direct line to Ithaca, &:c. The larger morning boats offer the most rapid, and on the whole the most agreeable means of travelling up the Hudson river. A visit to the Catskill Mountains, and an excursion to Lebanon Springs, via Hudson, are very pleasant variations from the common routine of the route to Albany. A good general tour is as follows — New-York, Catskill, Albany, the Springs, Lake George, back to the Springs, Schenectady, (or Johnstown,) Niagara, down Lake Ontario, Montreal, Quebec, Montreal, up Lake Champlain to Burlington, cross the country to Connecticut River and Boston — back to New-York by Connecticut River, or by Providence. . This maybe varied at pleasure. The Springs may be visited after the tour has been accomplished ; and this will be preferred by many, to enjoy repose after fatigue, and to see the country in the earlier and cooler part of the season. Some may choose first to travel eastward ; and then they will take one of the steam- boats which run in that direction. Information con- cerning most of the land routes may be obtained at the coach offices in Courtlandt-street, near Broadway. TO THE COAL MINES. A stage coach goes in a day from Powles' Hook to Easton ; another route is from New-Brunswick. (.See Easton.) THE MORRIS CA?sAL. THE MORRIS CANAL. This Canal will offer a new and direct route to the Anthracite Coal Mines at Mauch Chunk, Penn. It will leave the Hudson river opposite New-York city at Powles' Hook. After passing through the low grounds it reaches an elevated tract 50 feet above it, up which it rises by an inclined plane. Boats are about ten minutes in being drawn up by machinery. The old road through Newark marshes will make a towing path. The inclined plane near Bloomfield is 624 feet long, and surmounts an elevation of 52 feet perpendicular, having an inclination of one foot in every 12. When a boat is drawn to the top of the plane, it is received into an empty lock, into which the water is admitted from above, and, by its own operation closes the gates behind it, thus floating it up to the upper level. The wheels of the machinery are provided against too rapid a motion, by a contrivance by which wedges are spon- taneously dropped to stop them. Dover is a village which lies a little beyond; and at a short distance the canal rises to the summit level, which is supplied, for ten miles, from a pond. Not less than twenty miles of the whole route, the canal runs through narrow ravines, between high ridges of granite, which abound in va Suable minerals, heretofore transported by land to a distance to be wrought. With the exception of the Mountain Pvidge, the land through which the Morris Canal passes is fertile and populous. The whole rise and fall upon the route amounts to 890 feet ; and this is overcome by inclined planes, instead of locks, at as little expense, it is de- clared, as the lockage of 250 feet would cost. Newark is one of the most beautiful places in the state. The Canal winds thence to Paterson^ where h passes along the rocks below the falls, through ex- lo (JITY OF jNEW-YORK. pensive excavations. It crosses the Passaic above the Little Paterson falls, on an arched stone aqueduct, 50 feet span. Paterson is a large and flourishing manufacturing- village, situated just below the great and picturesque falls of the Passaic, from which the water is supplied for turning the machinery of numerous large esta- blishments. The place has grown up from almost obscurity within 20 years, and latel)^ contains about 8000 inhabitants. The amount of capital invested was estimated in 1828 at above a million. In the town there are seventeen cotton factories, containing 30,000 spindles ; one flax or sail duck factory, with 1600 spindles ; one slitting and rolling mill and nail factory, working annually 896,000 pounds of iron, costing $10,320, and making, yearly, 851,200 pounds of nails. The cotton factories consume, annually, 2,000,000 pounds of cotton, and the flax factory 600,000 pounds of flax. — There is one machine shop employing 150 hands, connected with which is an iron and brass foundry, working annually 600,000 pounds of iron, and 16,500 pounds of brass : the esti- mated yearly value of the iron and brass castings is $25,000. The scenery at the falls is celebrated for its pic- turesque character. A perpendicular wall of solid rock rises from the side of a lai^e basin formed by the river, into which the stream falls in foam, from the height of 70 feet. A man repeatedly sprung from that height into the water in 1828, without injury. When the canal leaves the Passaic, it runs a few miles in the valley of Pompton river, then through a rougher country to Mayville, where it rises 140 feet by two inclined planes. Thence to Boonton Falls on Kock- away river, and up another, 80 feet. The river has a fine fall, well dammed, to supply the canal and several mills. At Dover are iron works. At Rockaway is a plane rising 52 feet. There is a rlirprt road to Buffalo throusrh Tfhara. BOOKS AM> MAPS. IS I'he tollowing list of books and maps is given for those wlio may wish for more details concerning the northern states than we are able to furnish in the present summary view. BOOKS. History of the New-York Canals. Smith's History of New-York. Picture of New-York and Stranger's Guide. Dr. Dwight's Travels in the New-England States and New- York. Professor Siliiman's Short Tour to Montreal and Quebec, in 18mo. Tanner's Strangers' Guide to Philadelphia. Van Rensselaer's Geological Survey of the Canal Route. Hibernicus's Letters on the New-York Canal. Spafford's Gazetteer of the State of New-York. Spafford's Pocket Guide to the Canal Route. Gazetteers of New-Hampshire and V^ermont. Spafford's Gazetteer of Massachusetts. Description Topographique de la Province du Bas Canada, avec des remarques sur la Haute Canada, et sur les relations des deux provinces d'Amerique. Par Joseph Bouchette. Greenbank's Views of American Scenery. Pictures of Boston, Quebec, &.c. MAPS. Eddy's Map of the State of New-York. Vance's Map of the Western Part of the same* Goodrich's Map of the Hudson River. Daggett's Map of Connecticut. Bouchette's Maps of Canada. Tanner's Maps of different stales, &c. 20 2nEW-yoi{k to albaav. ROUTE FROM NEW-YORK TO ALBANY. The following steamboats ply between New- York and Albany. North America,* Ohio, New Philadel- ghia, Albany, Victory, Sandusky, Olive Branch, ristol. Constitution, Constellation, and Chief Justice Marshall. ■] ' - There are also others to intermediate places. Most of the Troy and Albany boats, however, stop or touch at those places. These boats lie about the docks at Courtlandt, Cedar, and Barclay-streets. There is some difference in the charges of the boats, but the accommodations travellers will find on board of them are generally good, except when they are too much crowded with passengers. Strangers will ge- nerally prefer the large ones, because they are furnished with an upper deck, called the promenade, which is sheltered from the sun by an awning, and affords a much more uninterrupted prospect, as well as better air. As two or three will go every day, and the tra- veller can choose better for himself, it is unnecessary to make any further suggestions, except that ladies particularly will prefer the day boats, unless they are too much crowded. Cautions. If luggage is sent by a porter, ask him for his number^ so that if he is negligent or dishonest, he may be reported at the police office. It is best to go to the steamboat ten or fifteen minutes before the time of departure, to avoid the crowd which always col- 'lects at the dock. PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON RIVER. On leaving New- York, the traveller finds himself in the midst of a fine and varied scene. The battery * This boat, in 1828, made the shortest passase ever known between i\cw-\ork and Albany-viz. in 10 hours and 30 niinutes. liOCKL-:VXI> CO; s\ ■I no SI lie ** \ 'v^ \ *p^^ lmk'i)i'/itle V chaii67; /. 7ll()bokcii> 'ji. ■?..■,■ Etu,ri LUiNATIU ASiLim. "^il lies behind him, with Governor's Island and Castle Williams projecting beyond ; still more distant opens the passage called the Narrows, with Staten Island on the right, leading to Sandy Hook and the Atlantic Ocean, which is 22 miles from the city. On the west side of the Bay are Bedlow's and Gibbet Islands, with forfitications; the point at the mouth of the Hudson is Powles' Hook, on which stands a small town in New- Jersey called Jersey/ City ; and the village of Hoboken is seen a mile or more up the river. The hills of Weehawken appear beyond : as the boat moves ra- pidly on, it passes the crowded line of buildings in Washington-street, the North Battery, and the village of Greenwich. At Weehawken, under a ledge of rocks facing the river, and about the distance of three miles from the city, is the spot where General Alexander Hamilton fell in a duel with Col. Burr. A monument of white marble was erected to his memory on the place ; but it has been removed within a few years. This is the common duelling ground for combatants from the city, and many lives have been lost on this fatal spot. The Palisadoes — a remarkable range of precipices of trap rock, which begins near this place, extends up the river on the west side 20 miles, to Tappan, and forms a singular, and in many places an impassable boundary. In some places an old red sandstone foun- dation is seen below ; but the great mass of the rocks presents the mural precipices of the trap formation, and rises from the height of 15 or 20 feet to 500 or 550. The eastern shore of the river opposite the Palisa- does, is for many m.iles handsomel};^ rounded with hills, and presents many scenes of cultivation, which con- trast with the rude cliffs on the left. The soil is infe- rior ; and the wood land encroaches too much upon the fields and orchards. The Lunatic Asylum, about 7 miles from the city, is a large building of hev/n stone, occupying a com- manding situation. C 22 NEVv-\OJiK TO ALlIANi. HarlcBm Heights are a short distance further. 'I'hey form an elevated ridg^e across Manhattan island, on which a line of fortifications was thrown up duringthe Revolution and the late war quite over to the t^ast river. Fort Lee, on the west side ot the river, is situated on the brow of the Palisadoes, more than 300 feet above the river. Fort Washington was a fortress on the top of a high rounded hill, on the east side of the river, 12 miles from New-York. In October, 1776, when Gen. Washing- ton had evacuated the city, and, subsequently to the battle of White Plains, (for which see just beyond,) had drawn off his army to Fort Lee, Fort Washington was kept garrisoned, contrair to his advice, and was attacked in four divisions. The Hessians and Wal- deckers, under Gen. Knyphausen, went up the hill on the north side, Gen. Matthews on the east, with the English light infantry and guards, marched against the intrenchments, which reached almost to the East river. Col. Sterling made a feint of crossing that river lower down, while Lord Percy with a very strong corps was to act against the western flank. The Hessians suffered much from the riflemen in passing the swamp, but succeeded, with the other di- visions, in driving the Americans into this fort, where they all surrendered, to the number of 2600 men, in- cluding militia. They had lost very few ; but the British lost about 800. Fort Lee was immediately evacuated ; but the Bri- tish crossed so speedily at Dobbs's Ferry, that they took the artillery, military stores, baggage, and tents of the American anny. Battle of White Plains. In October, 1776, soon after the American troops evacuated New-York, while General Washington had his army assembled at Kingsbridge, and the British were in possession of the island up as far as Harl«m, General Howe came up the East river, with an intention of surrounding the TARRVTOWN. 23 Americans. He left his German corps at New-Ko- chelle, and marched for the high grounds at VVhite Plains, several miles east of the Hudson, to seize the interior road between the city and Connecticut. Washington penetrated his design, and intrenched himself on the west side of the small river Bronx, with his right on Valentine's hill, and his left on White Plains. He had garrisons near Harlsem, at Kin^s- bridge, and Fort Washington. Skirmishes were kept up till the British approached very near ; when Washington asseiribled all his troops in a strong camp on the heights near the plains, with the Bronx m front and on the right flank, and a mountainous region in the rear. The right was more accessible ; and General M'Dougal was sent to intrench himself on a mountain about a mile in front. On the morning of October 28th, the British ad- vanced in two columns : the right by General Clinton, and the left by General Heister. The former took gost on the Mamaroneck road and the latter on the Ironx, — the armies being a mile distant. Col. Ralle with a Hessian regiment fell upon General M'Dougal in flank, while Leslie attacked him in front with a bri- gade. The militia soon fled, but the regular troops resisted until overpowered. The British determined to wait ; and on the following morning, finding the American position much strengthened, and a height in the rear occupied by the left wing, sent for more troops and erected batteries. Washington, therefore, retired to North Castle ; and soon after, securing the bridge over the Croton, and Peekskill, crossed the Hudson. Fort Independence^ on the east side. Opposite, the Palisadoes are of still greater height. Dobbs^s Ferry ^ 10 miles. Tarrytown, 3^ miles. This is the place where Major Andre was stopped, returning from his visit to Gen. Arnold, and on his way to the British lines. The plac^ was then neutral ficround, as the Americans and 24 NEW-YORK TO ALHA^i. English lay encamped above and below. The tree was recently standing under which his captors searched him, and the bank near by had concealed them from his view as he approached them. It was a large tulip tree, 26 feet round and 111 feet high. It was struck by lightning in 1801. Tappan, on the west side. Andre was executed about a mile west of the river in this town. The State Prison, at Singsing, is in a quadrangle of nearly 44 feet by 480. It has a double stack of cells built back to back, 4 tiers high and 200 on each tier : in all 800. 9 feet distant is the outer wall, which supports a gallery running all round ; size of the cells, 3 feet 6 inches by 7 feet, and 2 feet door way. The whole work was done by convicts, and a great part is of hewn stone. The system is the best — that of the Auburn prison. The Singsing prison is in plain view from the steam- boats, being only a few feet from the shore. The ex- cellence of this systetri of prison discipline, which is the invention of "Mr. Lynds, the superintendent, (for- merly superintendent at Auburn,) consists in its cutting oft' all intercourse among the prisoners. They are se- parately lodged ; and though they work together, they cannot converse, even by signs, and therefore can con- cert nothing, and cannot contaminate each other. Sleepy Hollow, rendered interesting by Mr. Irving, is a little above Singsing. The Entrance of the Highlands is a short distance beyond this place, and 40 miles iron) New-York. This is a region no less remarkable for the important military events of which it has been the theatre, than for the grandeur and nobleness of its natural scenery. Stony Point. The little rough promontory on the left, nearly a mile below the entrance of the High- lands, was a fortified position during the American war. The British took it from Gen. Wayne in 1778, hut lost it again the same year. There is a lighthou'^e on the top. Stonevl'oinl yl:: KO C K I. A X n STONY POINT. ZO rerplanckh Point, on the opposite side, was also the site 01 a fort ; but is now ornamented with a hand- some private mansion, and the rocks near the landing are tastefully variegated with a lawn, an arbour, and many fine trees. FORT MONTGOMERY AND FORT CLINTON. 5 miles. These forts were taken by Sir Henry Clinton, on the 6th of October, 1777. His object was to co-operate with Gen. Burgoyne, at that time closely watched by Gen. Gates near Saratoga, and to afford him an oppor- tunity to force his way to Hudson river, by effecting a diversion in his favour. For this purpose Sir H. Clinton had left New-York with 3 or 4,000 troops, embarked in the fleet and landed at Verplanck's Point. The next morning a detachment was sent to Stony Point, and marched round in the rear of these forts, then under the command of Gen. Putnam, and garrisoned by 1000 continental troops, part of whom were unfit for duty, and a small number of militia. Gen. Putnam, apprized of the landing made at Ver- planck's Point, and supposing the object of the expe- dition to be Fort Independence, had crossed the river and made preparations to oppose them. He did not discover their real intentions until he heard the firing at forts Montgomery and Clinton, which are near each other, and were attacked at the same moment. The fighting began betweer» four and five o'clock in the afternoon, and lasted till dark, when the Americans having lost about 250 men, the forts were surrendered ; but all the troops who were able, about 450, effected their escape, with the Governor and his brother Gen. James Clinton. The British, proceeding to West Point, removed the chain which had been stretched across the river to prevent the passage of their ships ; and a part of the fleet, under Sir James Wallace, went up to Kingston, with Gen. Vaughan and bis troops. it> ^EW-YOni TO ALBAKi. Although they found the village defenceless, the oth- cers ordered it to be burned on the 13th of October. The British proceeded no further than that place ; for the news of Burgoyne's surrender being received a few days afterward, the fleet returned to New-York. Anthony's J^fose. This mountain (which has a pro- file resembling the human (ace) rises 1228 feet from the river, directly opposite the mouth of Montgomery Creek, looking down upon forts Montgomery and Clinton Behind the latter is Bloody Pond, where the bodies of those were thrown who were killed in the defence. The Catskill Mountains are in sight from the top, part of Connecticut, the Green Mountains, with a view down the Hudson, extending to New-Jersey, and Har- laem Heights, Long Island Sound, &:c. Even the Lu- natic Asylum in New-York can be discovered. As the steamboat proceeds, several points are ob- served projecting into the river some distance above ; and West Point makes its appearance on the left hand, with the ruins of Fort Putnam^ elevated on a com- manding eminence, a little beyond, 598 feet above the water's level. The view it commands over this wild and mountainous neighbourhood, as well as its con- nexion with our history, will render it worthy of a visit. There are still three or four subterraneous rooms to be seen, and the place is so often visited, that the path is plain, and leads to most of the principal objects within it. This fortress commanded at once the river above and below West Point, and the passage into a defile which opens through the mountains westward. That defile was farther defended by numerous little batteries and redoubts on the peaks around it. The summits near Fort Putnam (then Independence) were also occupied, but were not fit for extensive works, although more elevated. During the war a fort stood on the opposite side of the river, called Fort Constitution. Koscmsko's Monximent is erected at West Point ; and 3riLITARl ACADEHr. ^< ihe spot is still shown where he cultivated his little garden. WEST POINT. This was a military position of great consequence in the war. A battery was erected on the extremity of the point just over the river, to command the chan- nel, while a strong^ iron chain was stretched across from the shore below, to the opposite side. On the east side of ihe river is Cold Spring, behind it is the West Point Foundry, owned by Major Kimberly of New-York. It is the best in the United States, and worthy of attention. The Military Academy of the United States is located at West Point ; and a more delightful situa- tion for such an institution could hardly have been se- lected. It is designed for the instruction of young men destined for the army ; and secondarily for main- taining the military science of the country. The Academy was established, in 1802, by Gen. Williams, and extends only to the instruction of Cadets. The num- ber of pupils is confined to "250 ; and in choosing from the applicants, the sons of revolutionary officers are al- lowed the first claim, and those children of officers of the last war whose fathers are dead, the next. There are about 30 professors, instructers and assistants. Some of the Cadets afford assistance in instructing, for %vhich they receive additional pay. The law prohibits admission under fourteen years of age. The level on which the buildings of the institution are erected, is 188 feet above the river, though it has the appearance of having once formed a part of its bed. The annual expense of the institution to the United States is ^115,000. The sum paid for the edu- cation of a Cadet is about gJ30 per annum. The library consists of a large and valuable collection of 2U ^E^v-¥Ol^K to albanv. books, on the various branches of military science, which have been obtained with great assiduity and no small expense from Europe. The buildings belonging to the institution are five ; all large, and built of stone. There are, besides, six brick buildings for the officers and professors ; near the water, some old military storehouses, which contain arms, &,c. used in the revolution. The barracks were lately burnt. There is a large and conspicuous hotel lately erected for the accommodation of visiters. The course of study is completed in four years, each being devoted to a class ; and includes the French lan- guage, drawing, natural and experimental philosophy, chemistry and mineralogy, geography, history, ethics, and national law, mathematics in the highest branches, and lastly, artillery and engineering. Study concludes each day at 4 P. M. and is suc- ceeded by the parade, which lasts till sunset. One of the particular spots worthy of attention is Col. Beverly Robinson's mansion on the east side of the river, which was made the head-quarters of the several officers who were at different periods invested with the command of this important part of the country. In September, 1780, while the British held posses- sion of Hudson river up to the borders of the High- lands, and General Arnold was in command here, a correspondence w^as carried on by him with the British officers, on the subject of surrendering his post into their hands. To bring their designs to a conclusion, it was determined that a meeting sBould be held. Andre was sent under cover of the night trom the sloop of war Vulture, which was then lying in Haverstraw Bay, to a place which had been appointed for the con- ference. A man by the name of Smith had been sent on board by Arnold, under the pretence of negotiating about an honourable treaty with Great Britain, and he accompanied Andre to the foot of a mountain called the Long Clove, on the west «ide of the river. Here EXECUTION OF AKDKE. I'l^ Ibey found Gen. Arnold in a dark grove of evergreen trees, according to appointment. Daylicrht put it out of the power of Major Andre to pass in safety the posts at Verplanck's and Stony Points. He was therefore obliged to retire to Smith's house, and change his dress for a disguise. General Arnold had furnished him with a pass under the name of John Anderson; and on the following- evening he set out by land, accompanied by Smith as a guide. They rode that night to McKoy's, after foing eight or nine miles : and the next he spent at 'ine's Bridge, over Croton River. Here he parted vpith Smith, and proceeded alone six miles, when as he had passed the American lines, and was approach- ing those of the British, he was discovered by three men, who were concealed from him behind a bank ; and one of them, suddenly stepping from under a tree by the road side, seized his horse by the bridle. They found in his boots a description of the works at West Point, wiih returns of all the forces of the garri- son, in the handwriting of Ar?iold. This happened on the 23d of September. A mes- senger was immediately sent to Gen. Washington ; and at Andri:''s request, Lieut. Col. Jamieson sent to Arnold to inform him that iVnderson was taken. The latter messenger arrived first ; and Arnold as soon as he learned the tru' I, rushed down a very steep bank, sprang into his boat, and ordered the rowers to take him on board the Vulture. On the 29th of September a board of officers was appointed for the trial of Major Andre, and sentenced him to suffer death as a spy. Objections were made to this sentence, on the ground that Andre had been introduced into the American camp under the passport of one of our otBcers ; but the delivery of Arnold being made the condition of his release, and that being- refused by the British, he was kept in prison until the 2d day of October, when he Avas hung at the town of Tappan, where his bodv was afterward interred. so AEW-YOKK TO ALBANY. A few years since the British goternment sent to this country to obtain his remains, which were removed to England, and placed in the family vault of the then Prince Regent. A cypress tree which grew over his grave was likewise removed to the garden of the present king. The roots of this tree were found to have twined themselves about the skull. In 1827, the corporation of New-York erected a monument over the grave of Paulding, one of his captors. At leaving West Point, the traveller will observe several remarkably high mountains on both sides of the river, for which he ia referred to the map. The distant summit of Catskill mountains is distinguishable. Putnam's Rock was rolled from the top of Butter Hill, June, 1778, by a party of soldiers directed by Gen. Putnam. On the east side is Anthony's Nose, JVewburgh. — This is a town of considerable size, six miles beyond the Higlilands, with some handsome buildings. Here begins the Stage Road leading from the river to Ithaca, at the head of Cayuga Lake, and communicating, by a steamboat, with the great western turnpike at Cayuga Bridge. New burgh is advantageously situated for the eye of one approaching it, as it stands on the declivity of a hill which slopes handsomely to the shore. Half a mile south of the village is seen the old stone house in which Gen. Washington had his head-quarters when^ the celebrated "Newburgh Letters" came out. A coach runs daily to Goshen, near which are the Chemung Springs. Fishkill Mountain. — The summits called North and South Beacons, which rise opposite Newburgh, at a distance of four miles, command a fine view over the surrounding countiy and the river, which appears, interrupted by the Highlands, like a number of lakes. Fort Putnam is in sis'ht, and it is said that land may be seen in seven different states. Many villages, as well as the river, are included in the view. Mnffenwnn Factory. Fishkill. — It stands near the river . Kill A L, B A X Y C O. \ *7/'^^ Co e>inans »^ liatavia— * % "% *^ — ^_-- --'^ "Ci, .lohnslowti IT 1' S L- |,. '''^n llctlhool T> IT T C U K S S CO. I,/,. Rhinebcck DELAWARE A2iD HUDSON CANAL. ol and directly opposite Newbur^h. It was commenced in 1814, belongs to Messrs. Schenk, and gives em- ployment to about 300 persons, with 50 power looms, &LC. 1,000 or 1,500 yards of cotton are manufactured on an average from the wool every day, principally stripes and ginghams. There is an extensive machine shop connected with it. Poughkeepsie is worthy of a particular description^ as it is a place of con^^iderable importance, and has a singular situation. There are three or four rough and rocky projections on the shore, which break up the streets of the village, and are partly occupied with houses and gardens. The effect is peculiar. For several miles beyond, the shores are of a regular elevation, but are cut through by several streams, which afford a little variety, as wharves are usually constructed at their mouths, where a sloop or two receive their cargoes of timber or produce for New- York. Kingston. — The Delaware and liudson Canal, which was commenced in July 1825, and completed, with the works in connexion with it, near the close of 1829, extends from a point on the Rondout, about four miles from the junction of the Waalkill with the Hudson, to the coal mines on the Lackavvana creek, in Pennsyl- vania. The whole route is now complete. The chief part of it, 65 miles, passes through a valley, two or three miles wide, in a south-westerly direction, to the Delaware. The country at the opening of the canal is remark- ably irregular and wild, dn rising from the level of the river by locks into the basin, a wild assemblage of rocks, steep hills, and forest trees is suddenly pre- sented to the view, with a few buildings ; and after passing through a deep cut, where the work is very neat, and under a high bridge, the boat enters the river, whose smooth and grassy shore offers a very convenient towing path. , The canal is 36 feet in breadth at the surface* anfl o"ii ]\E\V-\OKK To ALEAIVi. four feet deep. The locks are nine feet wide, 72 teet in length between the gates, from eight to eleven feet lift, and built of stone. The country has one peculiar feature on the route from the Hudson to the Delaware : it seems as if it Kight have afforded a channel to the Delaware, before its waters forced for themselves a new passage through the Blue Ridge. The elevation of this land is 80 feet above the present level of that river. High Falls.— At the High Falls on the Rondout River, the canal passes over a hewn stone aqueduct of two arches, just above which the cascade is seen, 50 feet high. The falls and the aqueduct both present a fine and striking appearance ; the effect of which is still further increased by the passage of the FiveLocks^ by which the ascent is surntounted. TAe Summit Level is about midway between the Hudson and Delaware, at a place formerly called Rome, and now Wurtzhorough. The Neversink River is crossed on an aqueduct, and the canal then pursues the course of that river. Carpenter's Point, on the Delaware, is the place where the canal meets that river, on the line of New- Jersey; and it then proceeds north-westerly, along its course. The excavations of rocks along the bank of the Delaware, required for the passage of the canal, are in many places on a vast scale; and the variety of natural scenery and artificial constructions presented to the traveller is highly agreeable and picturesque. A wall of stone rising from the river's bank, varying in height from 10 to 20 and 30 teet, supports the canal and tow path, in many places where the rocks have been blasted out with great expense to afford it a passage. Butler'' s Falls. — At this place the mountains rise to the height of several hundred feet, and a rock, which appeared to present a natural insurmountable obstacle, has been cut away with immense labour just over the CAi;SKlLI, M0U2sTAlJvs, So i.uii]ultuous stream, SO that boats pass along the smooth surface of the canal without difficulty or exposure, within a short distance of an impetuous current. The Dam arid Aqueduct over the Delaware. — The canal crosses the Delaware opposite the mouth of the Lackawaxen River, on a dam four feet in height ; after which it enters the valley of that stream. The Lackawaxen River. — Along the bank of this river the canal passes for a distance of about 20 miles, supported for a great part of the way on a wall of stone. The vvildness of the countiy on either side will ofl'er continually striking objects to the traveller. Honesdale. — This village stands at the Forks of the Dyberry, at the spot where the railway meets the canal at its termination. Only a few buildings have as yet been erected at this place. The Railway, by which the coal is brought from the mines, is provided with steam engines to move the carls. (We return to Hudson river.) Saugeriies. — Here is a large manufacturing place established by Henry Barclay, Esq. of New-York. By a lar^e stone dam on Esopus creek he obtains a supply of water at a fall of nearly 50 feet, which may be twice used on great wheels. The canal or sluice conducts it about two hundred yards through rocks 65 feet high. Here is a mill for paper on the latest English mode, making it in a continued sheet. The iron rolling and puddling mill is 169 feet long, rolls 200 tons a week, and can do double that work. There is an hotel in an elevated situation ; and the traveller will find great attractions there in the neau and distant scenery. THE CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. As the traveller proceeds he observes the disfaut idge of the Catskill mountains more distinctl^r, which imit the view north and westerly for many miles, and brm a grand feature in the scene, Thev nowhere D o4 AiiW-YOKK TO ALBAiN^ . approach nearer to the river than 8 miles, and in some places retire 15 and even 20. An excursion to the summit of these mountains is performed by great numbers of travellers ; and in- deed has become so favourite an enterprise, that it way very properly be ranged among the principal objects in the great tour which we are just commenc- ing. The visit may be accomplished in one day, though two or three may be agreeably spent in ex- amining, at leisure, the grand and beautiful scenery of that romaniic neighbourhood. There is a large and commodious house of entertainment erected at the Fine Orchard, one of the peaks of the mountain, about 3000 feet above the river. It is visible from the steamboat ; and the ascent to it \6 performed without fatigue, in private carriages or a stage coach, which goes and returns regularly twice a day. (There is a spring of carburetted hydrogen in Ca'.skill creek.) The place to land tor this excursion is Gatskill, where begins a turnpike road to Ithaca.'^ Taking the stage coach here, tor $1 you proceed towards the Pine Orchard, passing a good inn at the distance of 7 miles, (640 feet above the river) and then beginning the ascent, which is surmounted by a winding road that affords mijch wild scenery and man}'' a gTimpse at the surrounding country.! Five miles of such tra- velling brings the visiter to * The contemplated railroad from Itliaca to Catskill, N. Y. ?< pro- posed to be conmienced and continued tlirougli a corner of ScJiohario county, to the head waters of the Delaware ; thence to the Susqueliau- nah ; thence either direct to Ithaca or down the Susipiehannah iieariy to the Pennsylvania line; and thence to intersect tlie Ithaca and 0\ven- in '1:1* part of the country, and is easily accessible. (See Index-;- 4'j t 111 Vi; ALBAAl, and theii' '.vorship consists principally ol a strange ana disagreeable kind of dancing, whence they have their name, accompanied with a monotonous song. Some of their most experienced and perfect mem- bers pretend to " speak with tongues," heal disease.- with a touch of the hand, and perform other miracles like the apostles. They consider the marriage con- tract as dissolved on joining the society. They pay great attention to the raising of garden seeds in most of their villages, as well as to several of the neater branches of manufacture, and derive from both a very handsome inco»;.e, by making sales aL home and iii distant parts of the country. Whoever has an opportunity to see this singular people, will }nobably leel gratified with their neatness, industry, and economy ; but will perhaps leave the place with pity for some, and suspicion of others. Geology. The tract of country between New-Le- banon and Albany is transition. Bluish gray transi- tion limestone, with veins of calcareous spar, abounds here in strata on a large scale, with a considerable inclination. It is compact, with a slaty structure, Graywacke abounds at intervals ; also transition slate, and a line red sandstone. At Greenbush is a Led tf lUiiniiaQtmable fossil coal, or anthracite. ALBANY. The Albany Basin. The northern and western canals unite at the disJjnce of li\ miles from Albany, and terminate here, at a large basin in the Hudsoi;. one of the greatest works connected with the cana!. It is 4000 teet long, and has two or three handsoii;e biidges, one with a draw to allow a passage lor sloops, which leads from tho. foot of State-street. The pier which encloses the basin on the river side, is buiit of logs, and wide enough for a spacious street. It is a place of deposile for vast quantities ot lumber. Annually [here aiy many arrivals and deoarlures c: IJOT TE TO XTAGAKA. 4< canal boats nt Albany, will) great quantities of flour, and many million feet of plank and boards. Thou- sands of tons of merchandise, also, go north and west. The size of this basin may afl'ord the stranger some -idea of the extent of the business created by the canal^^. Here the traveller gets the first view o( objects with which he is afterward to become familiar ; and if he is travelling this way for the first time in a few years, he must look with surprise upon the crowd of Doats, ,'ind the bustle of industry. He may look upon thera also with additional interest ; for they Avill be hereaf- ter presented to his view in many varying forms, though still preserving the characteristic aspect and impression, which distinguish the whole line of inter- nal improvements to its termination. Tolls on both canals in 1829, about ^790.000. The route to Schenectady, by the canal, although so rauch longer than the stage road, and so much ob- structed by frequent locks, is hif>hly worthy of the travellers attention, either in going or in returning ; for it will afford him an opportunity of seeing the junc- tion of the two canals, the Cohoes Falls on the Mo- hawk, the locks by which the rise of land is artificially surmounted, the aqueducts which bear the canal twice across the river, the Wat Hoix Rapid, and the gap through which the canal passes ; the scenery at Alex- ander's Bridge, &c. Kiskey^ma, the original settlement of the Shakers, is about 4^ miles from Albany. ROUTE FROM ALBANY TO NIAGARA. The boats start from the first lock, which is at the north end of Albany ; so that a carriage will be neces- sary for the traveller and his luggage. Description of a Canal Packet Boat. The length is 60 or 70 feet, a large part of which is devoted to the dining room, where two rows of tables are set. A^ ni^ht, mat*re«.ps are spread on llje seats each side, 40 KOUTE TO Zs'IAb'AiiA. and in another row above them on cots suspended troai the roof. The ladies are accommodated with births in the cabin, which is usually carpeted, hung with cur- tains, and in other respects more handsomely fur- nished. The kitchen and bar are conveniently situ- ated ; and the tables are spread with an abundance, and often a delicacy, which may well surprise those not accustomed to the cheapness of travelling in this part of the country. A small library, a number of newspapers, &c. will serve to make the time pass agreeably, even if the tra- veller be a stranger, or the weather not inviting. In many places, the view from the deck is highly inte- resting ; but it cannot be too often recommended to the stranger to beware of standing on deck when ap- proaching a bridge, and never to expose the head or hands out of a window. RENSSELAERWYCK, A fine estate with its respectable old mansion house, about a mile north of the centre of the city, is worthy of particular observation, as the seat of the Honour- able Stephen Van Rensselaer, who bears the respected old Dutch title of Patroon of Albany. The estate is of immense value, extending ten miles along the river, and double that distance east and west : while he possesses besides, a fine tract on the Black River, &c. It was formerly entailed and secured i »y law to the oldest son of the family ; but on the death of the present pro- prietor it is to be divided equally among all the chil- dren. The character of Gen. V. R. is too estimable and influential to allow his name to be passed over in silence, even in a work like the present little volume. He has been a powerful patron, for many j^ears, of all plans for the public benefit, and one of the earliest and most efficient friends of the Erie Canal, which passes through his grounds, and terminates within view of hK house. Vmted statp:s' ah. exai, 49 U. States' Arsenah 5^ mile?, al Gibbonsvilif. The advantages of this situation will be immediately per- ceived : the vicinity to the Hudson, the road, and the canal affording every convenience for the transporta- tion of arms and ammunition. This depository of arms, &c. is under the charge of Major Talcott. The ground occupied by the arsenal extends from the road near the river, back to the tow path of the canal, where are two gun houses, with low projecting roofs to protect the carriages from exposure to the weather. Strangers may easily gain access by mere application at the officers' quarters. One floor is de- voted to such arms as are intended for the supply of the military posts, or have been received for repairing. The arms in the other parts are disposed with more taste. The muskets are partly packed in boxes, and partly ranged upright, with fixed bayonets, in compact r)rder ; and present an appearance truly formidalde. Thousands of pistols are hung overhead ; those in the alternate lines standing different w'ays ; and swords ■with metallic scabbards are disposed horizontally on wire hooks. Tiie walls bear several devices formed of swords, pistols, Sz,c. ingeniously arranged. This is the principal depot of arms and equipments in the northern states. The passages and staircases are hung with drums, &c. On the ground floor are a few pieces of artillerj-. and various sizes of shot, shells, &:c. &c. In the yard are two ranges of buildings. That on the north is devoted to workshops for the repair of arms, manufacturing locks, &c. about 30 men being usually employed, most of whom are enlisted. The buildings on the south side are occupied b}^ smiths and carpenters. Behind these is a handsome flower and fruit garden ; the kitchen garden being on the north side of the grounds. The muskets are repaired about once in a year ; ■which costs from 50 cents to gl 50 or $2 each. The ^larrels are oxydized. to prevent rustins:. The mu«- E" 5 ..U ItoS'TB 'iu AiAGAliA. kels weigh a little more than ten pounds, and the part.^ arc intended to correspond as nearly as can easily be done. In the yard are a number of cannon, &c. There are 4 medium 12 pounders, one 24, and one howitzer, all taken at Saratoga ; 4 medium 12 pounders and one howitzer, taken at Yorktown ; two long antique pieces and one 8 inch mortar, taken at Stony Point ; two old French 4 pounders and 14 guns, sent by king Louis to the Continental Congress in the Revolution. These are all of brass, and most of them highly ornamented. The French guns presented by the king bear each an individual name forward, and the inscription " Ultima ratio regvAii''' — (the last argument of kings.) There are also three or lour howitzers cast in New- York and Philadelphia in the Revolution, some of the oldest specimens of such manufacture in this country. They bear the letters U. C. for United Colonies, TROY, On the opposite side of the river is a very handsome lown, with fine hills in the rear, the most prominent of which has received the name of Mount Ida, to cor- respond with the classic appellation of the place. There is a good horse ferr}', which helps to render the town a great thoroughfare during the travelling season. The Dam and Basin at Troy form a great and expen- sive Avork, and are of marked benefit to the place, by diverting a part of the business of the canal. The court-house, and other public buildings are worthy of notice. The road to New-Lebanon is a very good and very pleasant one. The distance is 27 miles. Sandy Lake is 10 miles on this road, Nassau 8 more, village of New-Lebanon 12 iurther, and Lebanon Springs 2 more. On Mount Ida, the hill east of Troy, is a fine sue- G^ F ijo liUUi'E TO JNiAliAliA, apartments of considerable size. This hill is repre- sented in one of the plates ; but the view is taken from a spot west of it. The place is quite picturesque, and presents a remarkable assemblage of interesting ob- jects : the Mohawk river, winding through a narrow valley, with the turnpike on the north side, the canal and a country road on the south ; the whole enclosed by rough and elevated hills. There is every appearance of a rent in the hills having been made by a strong current of water; and geologists consider them as having originally been a barrier to a great lake which was thus gradually drained. Canajofiarie Creek and ViUage, 5 miles. Hence a stage coach two or three times a week to Cherry Valley. Fort Plain, 4 miles. Here is a small village, be- longing to a town inhabited by the descendants of Germans. It occupies ihe site of old Fori Plain. The German language, much corrupted, is spoken here by every body. This little fort was surprised by Captain Butler in the revolutionary war, on his return from burning Cherry Valley ; and here he committed similar atrocities. DAM ON THE RIVER, AND FEEDER FOR THE CANAL, 4 miles. The Mouth of East Canada Creek, on the opposite aide of the Mohawk. Near that place, Capt. Butler met a violent death, soon after leaving Fort Plain, on his way back to Oneida Lake and the Oswego. He had crossed the river somewhere below, and while lingering a little in the rear of his troops, was over- taken near the mouth of the creek, by two Oneida Indians, in friendship with the Americans. Seeing them preparing to kill him, he begged for his life ; but they only replied, ^^ Skerry Valley P^ and toma- hawked liim on the spot. LITTLE FALLS. oif Mohawk Castle^ 2 miles. This was the principal defensive position of that famous nation of Indians now entirely scattered and lost. As the nearest to the Dutch settlements, and New-England, they were long^ regarded with peculiar solicitude, and frequently with great dread. They were one of the five nations, of which we shall speak more particularly, at Oneida, and were long faithful and serviceable friends to the white men. Here is an old chapel erected for their use. Palatine Bridge. A little off the canal, at Palatine, is a school for the education of the Deaf and Dumb, establish'^d under the patronage of the state, on the plan of that in Hartford, Connecticut. It is the cen- tral school for the state of Nevv-\^ork. {See Hartford.) LITTLE FALLS. The country presents a varied surface, and increases in interest on approaching Little Falls, which is the most romantic scene on the course of the Erie canal. On reaching a little open meadow surrounded by hills, where the views open upon cultivated fields and a (ew farm houses, the Mohawk will be found flowing below on the right ; while on the opposite side, at the foot of the hills and on the verge of the forest that covers them, the great road is seen, after having been lost to the view for a long time. Here is situated Gen. Her- kimer's house, on the south side of the river at the foot of Fall Hill. The road, the river, and the canal are collected again at the head of the valley ; for there is but one passage, and that so narrow as hardly to afford room for them all. This is a deep cut through a chain of limestone and granite hills, doubtless torn away in some former age by the force of water. If the chain were again filled up it would throw the water back, and form an immense lake, such as is sup- posed to have once existed west of this place, and lyhich. by overflowing its bounds, in process of timr t'.O KOUTE TO ^lAGAliA. ■^vore away the limestone strata, and cut deep into the hard g^ranite, until a mere river succeeded, and the fine alluvial plains above, called the German Flats, •were left dry. The stranger should, by no means, neglect the view of this place. If he reaches it early or late in a pleasant day, particularly near the rising of the sun, the beauty of the scene will be redoubled. On the north bank of the river, the road climbs along the side of the rocks, where there is barely room for ils passage. A great part of the way, it is almost overhung by rocks and trees on one side, while on the other is a preci- pice of granite, cut down by the force of water in perpendicular shafts, originally formed by drills, made by loose stones whirled round in the current. The same appearance extends to the islands and rocks in the channels, many of which appear quite inaccessible, with their ragged and perpendicular sides overhung by dark evergreens, whose shade seems the more intense from its contrast with the white rapids and cas- cades below. In some places the road is protected by immense natural battlements, formed of massy rock, which have been loosened from above, and planted themselves on the brow of the precipice. The scenery has been compared with that of the river Dove in Derbyshire, and the Killin in Perthshire, England. On the south side of the river runs the canal, sup- ported by a wall 20 or 30 feet high, constructed at great expense, and rising from the very channel of the Mohawk. The wildness of the surrounding scenery contrasts no less with the artificial beauty of this noble work, than the violence and tumult of the Mo- hawk with the placid and silent surface of the canal, or the calmness and security with which the boats glide along the side of the mountains. The traveller may step on shore at the two locks, and walk along the tow f)aths, as there are five more locks a mile above. If he wishes to stop a (o-sv THE AQUEDUCT. 61 hours to view the scene more at leisure, the vi]lag:e of Little Falls is only half a mile from that place, where is a lareie and comfortable inn, with canal boats and stage coaches passing- very frequently. If he intends io stay but a few hours, it i? recommended to him to have his bag'gage left at a little tavern on the canal, 'where it can be readily transferred to another boat. The Aqueduct across the Mohawk is near the five locks ; and is considered the most finished specimen of mason work on the line of the canal, though much inferior in size to that over the Genesee at Rochester. It conducts a supply of water from the old canal, formerly built for boats to pass the falls, and commu- nicates also with a large basin on the north bank. It passes the narrow channel of the river with three beautiful arches, which are covered with a calcareous cement roughened by little stalactites, formed by the water that continually drips through the stones. The span of the middle arch is 60 feet. Stones, twigs of trees, &c. on which the water falls, are soon found incrusted with a similar substance. The channel here shows part of the old limestone strata, with the more durable granite rocks laid bare below. This range of mountains, called in this part of the state the Critsbergs, is a spur of the Alleghany, and extcFids along the west side of Lake Champlain, till it disappears in the northern levels in Canada. This neighbourhood i> interesting to the geologist, abounding in organic remains, &c. but the oidinary traveller will be more pleased with specimens of the beautiful little rock-crystals (quartz), which are found on the hills about a mile distant from the village. They are perfect in their form, terminating with two pyramids ; and are so loosely imbedded in a sandy rock, as to be washed out by the rains in considerable numbers. There are mills of various kinds at this place. On leaving Little Falls, the canal enters upon a beautiful meadow of fine soil, and a smooth surface ; F2 ♦I'd KUUTE TO AlAGAliA. through which the Mohawk winds in a placid anu gentle current, enclosed on each side by sloping hills. At the distance of three miles, we are in the level region called the German Flats, famous for its fertility. The inhabitants, who are almost all of German extraction, still preserve their language, and many of the customs of their ancestors, and though often laborious and provident farmers, are little inclined to those improve- ments in learning or the useful arts, which distinguish so large a portion of the state. The scenes presented along this part of the canal bear a resemblance to some of the meadows of the Connecticut, although of inferior size, and of more recent settlement. Six miles from Little Falls is Lock JVo. 48. An old church is seen on the south side ; and also, old Fort Herkimer. Herkimer. This village is situated about a mile and a half be^'ond, and a mile north of the canal, on a semicircular plain ; the circumference of which is traced by the Mohawk, and the diameter by the great road. It derives its name from Gen. Herkimer, of whom there will be more to say at Rome. Fort Herkimer, or the " Stone House," is near the canal, a mile and a half from Herkimer. The traveller may take a carriage here, to visit Trenton Falls, and join the canal again at Utica ; or go first from Utica. The Long Level begins at Lock No. 53, nearly six miles west of Herkimer. It is the longest reach on the canal, without any interruption by locks, extending to Salina, a distance of 69| miles. After passing Franktbrt, we reach UTICA. This is one of the largest and most important of the western towns. Here the river, the great road, and the canal, all meet again. There are also roads con- centratine: here, from various directions, and stagf^ gOT'Auvqiv^V ,idu t>. 1 HE'iiTOJN" i'ALLs. bo toaches aniving and departing in great numbers. There are two large stage houses ; one of which, at the canal bridge, will be found most convenient, if not too crowded. There are several handsome churches in Utica, and one or more for almost every denomination. The streets are broad, straight, and commodious ; and the principal ones well built with rows of brick stores, or elegant dwelling-houses. The bridge over the Mo- hawk is at the end of the street. There were, in 1825, 5040 inhabitants : a few less than in Rochester. Weigh Lock. (See p. 52.) Hamilton College is situated near the village ot Clinton, nine miles from Utica. There were fourteen graduated here in 1828. TRENTON FALLS. I This most interesting vicinity is well worthy the attention of every person of taste, being justly consi- ! dered one of the finest natural scenes in this part of the country. An excellent inn is kept near the falls by Mr. Sherman, who has a large collection of rare and curious petrifactions, collected among the rocks, worthy of examination. From this house you descend a long staircase down the steep bank of the West Canada Creek, which has j cut a frightful chasm through a rocky range, in some I places 150 feet deep, and Is seen gliding swiftly by t through a declining channel below. The chasm con- tinues for four miles, and presents the greatest variety of cascades and rapids, boiling pools and eddies. The passage or chasm between the rocks is everywhere very narrow, and in some places is barely sufficient to permit the stream to pass ; while the rocks rise perpendicularly on each side, or sometimes even E reject a considerable distance overhead, so that it as been often necessary to form an artificial path by Tweans of gunpowder. These plac<^s appear danger- 04 KOUTi: TO IVIAGARA. oiis, but only require a little caution and presence o£ mind to ensure the safety of the visiter, as strong iron chains are fixed iiito the rocks to offer hinn security. There are four principal cataracts, between the stair- case by which you first descend and the usual limit of an excursion, which is about a mile and a quarter up the stream. The first of these you discover soon after the first turning, and is about 40 feet high ; with the greatest fall towards the west. The top of the rock on the right side is 150 feet high by line mea- surement. The second is a regular fall, much like a mill dam, about eight feet high ; the third, a remark- ably striking and beautiful one ; and the fourth, rather a succession of cascades, but presents many most agreeable varieties. Near the foot of this a melancholy accident occurred in 1827. A lady from New-York was drowned by slipping from a low bank ; unseen, although her friends and parents were near her. The ear is stunned by the falls, the rocks are slippery, and great caution is re- commended. A singular species of tree is found in this neighbour- hood, called the white cedar, with drooping branches, which often grow to such a length as to descend far below the root, towards the wafer. The rocks here are all a dark limestone, of a very slaty structure, and contain astonishing quantities of petrified marine shells and other animals of antediluvian date, such as dilobites, trilobites, &c. &c. The are several other cataracts besides those already mentioned, both above and below ; and a stranger might spend some time here very agreeably in observ- ing them at leisure, and in catching the fine trout with which the creek abounds. The house is commodious, and has the reputation of furnishing one of the best tables in this part of the state. 51EGJ3 t)F roKT STA^WIX. ♦«> FROM UTICA TO SYRACUSE. By the Canal 63| miles. Whitestovvn, . 4 miles-. Oriskany village, . . 7 Rome on the right, 8 Feeder from Wood Creek, and the old U. S. Arsenal, 1 Oneida Creek, 14 Lock 54, end of the long level, ... 29 Syracuse, — f These places are noticed in succession. Whitestown is one of the most beautiful villages in this part of the state, as well as the oldest settlement. All this tract of country was a perfect wilderness in 1 785, when Mr. White, from Middletown, in Connec- ticut, first took up his abode here and lifted an axe against the forest. The traveller may keep this in mind as he pursues his journey, and the progress of civilization will appear more astonishing. SIEGE OF FORT STANWIX. On the road from Whitestown to Ftome, is the spot where Gen. Herkimer remained under a tree after re- jceiving his mortal wound. In 1777, Gen. Burgoyne isent between 1500 and 1800 men, many of them sa- lvages, under Baron St. Leger, to go from Montreal, by I Lake Ontario, to attack Fort Stanwix ; and then to I go down the Mohawk to Albany. Early in August, (they arrived at Fort Stanwix. Gen. Herkimer, com- 1 mander of the militia of Tryon county, was sent against them with 800 men. His men insisted on going on, to meet a detachment under Sir J. Johnson, sent out by St. Leger ; but at the first shot they fled. A iesiv re- mained and fought, and Gen. H. was killed. Con- gress voted a monument to his memor}% but it has never been erected. The Americans lost 160 killed. land 240 wounded and prisoners. Two miles bel-vv 06 liOUTE TO NIAGARA. Fort Stanwix the canal commences between the Mo- hawk and Wood Creek. Fort Stanwix stood 60 or 80 rods N. E. of the centre of the village of Rome, with a deep ditch, three rows of palisadoes, and a block-house in the middle. Rome. Near this village, when the canal was opened through a ridge of diluvial formation, clams were found alive, which were eaten by the workmen. (See Am. Journ. of Sci. &,c. Jan. 1829.) ONEIDA CASTLE. This is a village on the confines of a tract of re- served land belonging to the Indians of the Oneida nation. The principal residences of most of the In- dians in this part of the country were formerly forti- fied in a manner corresponding with their ideas of warfare, and hence the name of castle attached to this village, as well ns to several others which we have occasion to speak of further on. The Oneidas were one of the original Five Nations, ■which form so conspicuous a figure in the history of this state, and whose power and influence, at the time of the settlement of New- York and New-England, were extended far and wide. A mile east of Oneida Creek, and by the road side, is the ancient COUNCIL GROVE, Where all the public business of the nation has been, lor many years, transacted. It is formed of 27 fine but- ternut-trees, which, in the summer season, from a little distance, presents a beautiful and regular mass of ver- dure. Towards the south-east from this place is seen the Episcopal church, a building recently erected for the use of the Indians. Great numbers of the white per- sons from the neighbourhood also attend service at this house, as well as in the other church, which is supplied with preachers by the Foreisrn Missionary Society. KKO'J'llfclM'OWiS ATSli ISE\V-6TOGJviJ!KiDGK. U/ In the scattering: village about half a mile beyond, there are several decent and conilortable frame houses inhabited by Indian families, whose habits have risen to a higher grade than most of the nation, although inany of them are gradually improving, by betaking themselves to agriculture. 1 A considerable portion of the tribe have recently removed to Green Bay. Schools among the Indians are encouraged by the general government of the U. S. In the whole coun- try there are 42 schools in different tribes, with 1291 pupils, and 121 teachers. The annual cost to the U. iStatesisgTOOO. I The scholars are taught the rudiments of learning under a master and mistress, and also the useful arts. The Oneida nation were idolaters until within a short time ; but a few years ago the nation renounced I their ancient superstitious rites, and declared in favour. I of Christianity. IBROTHERTOWN AND NEW-STOCKBRiDGE I Are two villages, a few miles south-easterly from jhere, situated on part of the old Oneida reservation, but granted to some of their scattered Indian brethren {from Pennsylvania and New-England. New-Stock- ! bridge, until recently, was the residence of the Stock- bridge tribe, who came by an invitation from the lOneidas some years ago. They had Christian minis- l-ers among them long before they removed from jStockbridge in Massachusetts. ; Most of them now reside at Green Bay, on land jiven them by the Menoniinies, a nation with whom ihey are on the most friendly terms ; and are adopting '.o a good extent, the arts of civilized lite. They have invited the Oneidas to join them. Manlius Centre. 50 yards from the canal and two tniles east of Manlius Centre, is a curious spring, from j ^^hich sulphuretted hydrogen rises, and is inflammable. f)b liOLTi: lO ,\ LAG All A. SYRACUSE. This place is no less remarkable for the rapidit}^ oi lis growth, than for the peculiar advanta»-es of its situ- ation. The great Salt Spring is only a mile and a half distant, and the water is brought in hollow logs to the salt vats, in great abundance, and at a very trifling' expense. Tliese vats will be seen at the western side of the village, and are well worthy of a day's delay, as well as the works at Salina, Liverpool (6 miles distant), and Geddesburgh. In all these four villages^ about 500 acres, in 1827, were supposed to be covered with vats, for solar evaporation. The vats are large pans made of wood, three or four inches deep, raised a little from the ground, and placed in long ranges, with a very gradual descent, to permit the salt water to flow slowly along from one end to the other. Each range of vats is supplied by a hollow log placed per- pendicularly in the ground ; and the constant action of the sun evaporates the water, and leaves the salt to be deposited in small cubical crystals at the bottom. The water is at first a little thick, but gradually deposites its impurities ; and the lower vats always show a beautiful white crust, like the purest snow. Light wooden roofs are kept ready to slide over the vats when the weather requires it ; and the salt is taken out once in two or three days, to be deposited in the storehouses, which are built at regular distances. Thence it is easily removed to the canal, and then js ready for transportation to any part of the country. In 1823, there were about 100 houses, and the number was doubled in 1824. In 1825, the inhabitants amounted to 1000 ; and those of the township to 3025. There were then three churches in the village ; and 736,632 bushels of salt were manufactured here in that year. In 1827, the salt vats covered one hundred and ^ixfy acres, and cost the comnanics enGfajred. i''?120.00(> f\ i / A«^ n f^ Bull cC^. s r /• § *s if V ^ V '/>' ts ci -H ^ V^ 1 1 Under such encouraging prospects, the village has acquired its sudden growth and importance ; large blocks of stores have been built on both sides of the canal, two or three large inns and stage houses arc ready for the accommodation of travellers, and a good deal of trade is carried on in the place. Improvements are still going on rapidly, and it is difficult to foretell where they will stop. Almost 3500 bushels of salt are made here in a year. The Oswego Canals v/as opened in July, 1828, leaves the Erie canal at this place, and affords a direct communication with Lake Ontario. A lake ship canal might be made at a small additional expense. The bank is used as a tow path a considerable distance. The shores rise gradually to a height of 100 feet, with few inhabitants and little cultivation. The locks and Pother works are of the best description, and very ad- mirable workmanship. A barrel of flour will go for six cents less, by the lake and this canal, from Ro- chester to Salina. It is 38 miles long. Half that dis- tance it is constructed along the bank of the river of the same name, connected with it by locks, and the other half is slack-water navigation in the river. It has 2£ bridges, 7 culverts, 1 aqueduct, 2 waste weirs, 8 dams across the river, 13 locks of stone and 1 of stone and timber, with an aggregate lift of 123 feet. ' By a recent survey, a canal from Syracuse through Homer to Binghampion, on the Susquehannah, has been pronounced practicable. Syracuse Weigh-Lock. (Sec p. 52.> SALINA ' Is situated a mile and a half north irom this place, and should not be passed by unnoticed. A small but [convenient little packet boat is continually plying I between the two places, drawn by a single horse, and passes by many salt manufactories, built on both sides !v>f the c^n?.l. The mrrda of eyaDoration £fener?jlv I G- " "" ' «0 ROUrn TO .MAGAK-\ adopted here, is that of boihng ; and a hi'wi aescij{j|iui will convey a clear idea of the process. Eachbuildin'^: contains sixteen or eig^iiteen large iron kettles, of 120 c^allons each, which are placed in two rows, forming what is called " a block." They stand about thret feet higher than the floor ; and under them is a largt furnace, which is heated with pine wood, and requires constant attention to keep the water always boiling. The water is drawn froni a large reservoir at one end of the building, after having been allowed to stand awhile and deposite the impurities it has brought along with it. A hollow log, with a pump at one end, and furnished with openings against the kettles, is the only machine used in filling them. The first deposite made by the water after the boiling commences, is a com- pound of several substances, and is thrown away, under the name of " Bittern ;" but the pure white salt, which soon after makes its appearance, is carefully removed, and placed in a store-room just at hand., ready for barrelling and the market. Each manufactory yields about 40 bushels a day, and the different buildings cost about half a million. There are two large manufactories here, where salt is made in reservoirs of an immense size, and evapo- lated by hot air passing through them in large pipes. The reservoir of the principal one contains no less than 40,000 gallons. The pipe is suj^plied with heat by a furnace below, and the salt is formed in large loose masses, resembling half-thawed ice. The crystali- nation also is different from that produced by the othei modes, at least in secondary forms. The village of Salina is of considerable size and a flourishing appearance, considering the shortness oi the time since it began to be built, and the serious obstacles it has had to encounter in the unhealthinesb of its situation. In 1825, it contained 1000 inhabitants ; the village of Geddes, 520 ; and Liverpool, 375. The extensive marshes which bound it on the west are ex- tremely unwholeseme during the ^varmei; ?ea'?ons o- SALINA SALT W0Klv6'. i 1 'he year, and the -whole nei^^hbourliood is iiiore orles? ■'infected with the fever and ng-ue : that terrible scourge, which has retarded so much the settlennent of many ?parts of this western country. Since the marshes have 'been partially cleared and drained, the disease has been greatly diminished ; and it is hoped that time and industry will reduce its ravages still further, if not entirely eradicate it. The branch canal which runs through this village, j5 applied to other valuable purposes besides those of transportation. A sluice which draws off a portion of ihe water towards the marshes and the lake, is made !o turn several mill-wheels in its course. A forcing pump raises the water of the salt spring destined to -'ippl}^ the manufactories here and at Sj^racuse ; and a Jarge open frame building shows the spot from which all the kettles and the pans of both these places derive their supplies : that for the latter being elevated to the height of 70 {eeU and the pump being able to raise 120,000 gallons in 24 hours. The Salt Spring itself will be viewed as a curiosity, but in its present state presents no very remarkable ap- pearance, as there is little commotion visible on the surface, and the source would seem by no means equal to the great draughts which are continually made upon it. The Lake will be seen at the distance of about a J mile. It is six miles long and two broad, and must j receive a considerable quantity of salt water from the ' draining- of the marshes, as its banks are covered with i' saline plants. The valley is surrounded by limestone hills, with petrifactions ; and gypsum is found in great J quantities. " Tlie American Salt Formation,'''' says Dr. Van Rens- selaer in his 'Essay,' "extends over the continent from the AUeghanies to the Pacific, between 31° and 45° I H. lat. In this immense tract, rock salt has been ' occasionally found ; but its locality is more generally j pointed out by brine springs." The salt springs in ' 'hi'^ '^tafo are in the rountips of Onondaga, Cayuga* tt* "KOtTE TO ]N"IAGAUA. Seneca, Ontario, Niagara, Genesee, Toffipkia-;, Wayne, and Oneida ; but this is the most valuable oft various accounts. In 1828 there were 1,1 60,888 bulheis; inspected ; and in 1829, 1,291,820 bushels, showing an increase of 130,932 bushels. Of this, 745,741 bushels were inspected at Salina, 229,317 at Syracuse, 187,540 at Liverpool, and 129,22^ at Geddes. The number of manufactories was increased during the past year, notwithstanding the reduction in the price of salt ; and the quality of the brine has been improved and the quantity increased by means of perforations into the earth, to the depth of about sixty icet, so that the assurance is given of a supply to the Mtmost that will probably ever become necessar3^ FROM SYRACUSE TO ROCHESTER. As the traveller is supposed to go to Rochester by ihe canal, the description of places on tlie Turnpike is omitted until we reach that part of the country on the return from Buffalo. By the rMnal, 9^ miles. Weed's Basin 26 m. — A coach to Auburn, 8 miles for 50 cents. 11m. Mon- tezuma Salt Works. Here begin the Cayuga Marshes. The canal across the marshes was constructed at a vast expense. 35 m. Palmyra. Coach to Canandaigua, 13 m. for 75 cents. The Great Embankment at Victor, 72 feet high, extending 2 miles. Antiquities. In the tov^ns of Onondaga, Camillus, and Pompey, are the remains of ancient villages and forts, of which a description will be found in Yates and Moulton's new History of the State, vol. i. p. 13. in Pompey the form of a triangular enclosure is visible, ^vith the remains of something like circular or ellip- tical forts at the corners, 8 miles apart, the whole including more than 500 acres. De VVitt Clinton, bte Governor of this state, in his memoir, read in 1817, before the Lit. and Phil. Societv. think* thepbcewai* \ n ■i^ZZ.' V ^. -^ iNH:: liO(!JIESTEK. --4 3 stormed on the north line. See also North American Review. In Camillus is an elliptical fort on a high hill, three acres in extent, with a covered way, 10 rods long:, to a jspring on the west, and a gate towards the east. An- 'other is on a less elevation half a mile off, and half as large. Sculls, pottery, and bits of brick used to be jpicked up in these places. (There is a bed of Coal I in Onondaga.) j ROCHESTER I fs the largest and most flourishing place in this part of the state, being indeed the fourth in the state in point of numbers, the township containing, in 1827, 10,818. It has several good inns, one of the best of which is the "Coffee House," near the canal bridge. It is situated on the west side of the Genesee river, at ' the upper falls, where it is crossed by the canal ; and enjoys the finest advantages for water-mills of all kinds, from the convenient and abundant supply ob- tained from the falls. Stage Coaches go hence, daily, to Buffalo through Batavia ; three daily to Canan- daigua ; one daily to Niagara falls by Lockport and Lewiston, &c. &.c. Rochester was first surveyed into lots in the year 1811, the first settlement made in 1812, and it was not until the latter part of the year 1814, that any consider- able addition was made to the number of inhabitants. In September, 1818, the village contained 1049 inhabit- ants ; in August, 1820, 1502; in September, 1822, I 3130, (which included labourers on the public works ; (he permanent population at that time was estimated at about 2700) In 1824, 4274; in 1825, 5271 ; and in 1827, 10,818. There are some fine dwellings, an arcade, a court house, jail, market, 13 large flour mills of stone, which can make 342,000 barrels of flour annually. There are 52 nm of stones in all. About 9 million feet of 74 ROUTE TO ZvlAGARA. lumber are sawed here in a year; and 5 riiiiiiuii!:- brought down the river. There is a cotton factor3% ivith"l400 spindles and 30 power looms, and a woollen factoiy ; three bridges over the Genesee, 8 canal basins, two dry docks, &c. The Broadway bridge, 600 feet long, is a few yards above the aqueduct. There is an eye and ear infirmary, a bank, a High School, and 6 meeting-houses for Episcopalians, Pres- byterians, Methodists, Friends, and Catholics. The w^ater power belonging to this village and the vicinity is equal to the power of 38,400 horses ; or, 1,920 steam engines of 20 horse power each. There- fore the water power is worth (computing the cost of such engines, as in England, at $8,800 each ; and the annual expense of working at 222 dollars for each horse power,) almost ten millions annually. Only a small part of it is yet used. The whole river supplies 20,000 cubic feet a minute ; and the combined height of the falls at Rochester and Carthage is about 280 feet. A fall of 12J- cubic feet of water in a minute, 20 feet is equal to the power of one horse. The proposed canal from Genesee river to Oleanon the Alleghany, would be about 110 miles long, and cost, as is estimated, about $1,320,000. It would open a valuable trade with the upper valley of the Ohio, and much increase the value of tlie land. The Aqueduct over the Genesee is one of the finest works on the course of the canal, and is no less remark- able for its usefulness than for its architectural beauty and strength. It is borne across the river's channel, on ten arches of hewn stone. The river dashes rapidly along beneath, while boats, with goods and passengers, glide safely above. A feeder enters the canal on the east side of the river, where sluices are also constructed for llie supply of the numerous manufactories built on the bank. All that part of the canal west from Rochester, is supplied with water from the Tonawanta creek. Other sluices irsi also dna: on the west f^ide. where vci'^ryv other rt\\lh fAllTIIAGK. 'to aie io ue seen. The streets ot' the tovvii are hancV somely and regularly laid out, and several of them are^ very well built with store and dwelling-houses of brick and stone, and well flagged on the side-walks. Falls. There is a fail in the Genesee of about 90 feet, at the northern extremity of the town, another near it ]^ and a fine one at Carthage, which, with the truly impressive scenery of the banks, is worthy of particular attention. To vary the ride, it is recom- mended to the stranger to go down on one side of the river, and after viewing the cataract, cross the bridge a little above, and return on the other. The Lake Ontario Steamboat touches at Port Ge- nesee, at the mouth of the river, on its way to Niaga,ra and to Ogdensburgh — the route to Montreal, Carthage. The fall here is very suddeo, though not in a single precipice. The descent is 70 feet in a i'ew yards. The cataract has evidently been retiring for ages, as the deep gulf below the falls, with its high, perpendicular and ragged banks, is sufficient testimony ; and the seclusion of the place, the solemn and sublime effect of the scenery, redoubled by the roaring of the cataract, combine to render it one of the most inipres- sive scenes in this part of the country. The precipices are walls of secondary rocks, presenting their natural stratification, and descending from the surrounding level, to a depth of about tv/o hundred feet. A singular vein of whitish stone will be observed, cutting them horizontally, and disappearing at the brink of the falls, which it has kept at their present position : its superior hardness, evidently resisting the action of the water for a much longer time ; and probably rendering the descent more perpendicular than it would otherwise he. The rocks are overhung with thick forest trees, which, in some places, have been able to find a narrow fooling along the sides. One of the boldest single fabrics that art has evej « At Uii^fsiU Ihe noted Jeaper, Sam Patch, met his deaUi ui 1820. Ue ?p!;r!r>g frtm) -i :^trrjre fi.c;ir 'h? f'n>. and ri-^vor r^s^'.^?^.i,M. ,t> r()i;,j:.k yo mag a k a. ?ucce.s>fiiliy atlrmptefl in this country, now slioAVb a few of its remains in this place. The two great piles of timber which stand opposite each other on the narrow level, where once the river flowed, are the abutments of a bridge thrown over a few years ago. It was 400 feet in length, and 250 above the water; but stood only a short time, and then fell with a tre- mendous crash, by its own weight. Fortunately, no person was crossing it at the time — a lady and gentle- man had just before passed, and safely reached the other side. On account of the obstructions at the falls, navigation is entirely interrupted here ; and ail the communication ])etween the banks of the Genesee, as well as the canal, and Lake Ontario, is through Carthage. Merchandise is raised up the bank, or lowered down, by means of an inclined plane, very steep, where the descending weight is made to raise a lighter one by its superior gravity. This obstacle will cause a great deal of merchandise to pass through the Oswego canal. ROAD FROM ROCHESTER TO NIAGARA FALLS, 87 miles. To Carlhnge Falls 2 Parma 9 Clarkson* 7 Hart I and 14 Sandy Creek 7 The principal objects on this road are, the Ridge, Lewiston, on rv^iagara river, and the Tuscarora Village. iv Ilrtlloy Village, Q5 miles west of Rochester, is 12 iniios distant from the suiplmric acid spring in Byron. Professor Eaton mentions this as the only Known instance of n'spring containing sulphuric acid in the world, with the exception of one in the ancient crater of Mount Idienne in Java. The editor ot the .Tournal, however, mentions another, spoken of by Ilumholdt, the lUode Vinaere, or Vinegar river, flowing from the extinct volcano of Purai'p, near Popayan, in the waters of which fish will mn live, and llie sprav of whir^ irritates and fnflames the eyes of naveHflrs- To Gaines A Oak Orchard 7 Cambria 11 Lewiston 15 Niagara Falls " 7 I liOOfcrORT. i i Niagara Village will be seen if you do not cross into Canada at Levviston ; and Queenstown if you do. Lockport should, by all means, be visited. The Ridge is a remarkable elevation, of little height, md for the most part very narrow, extending a great part of the distance from Rochester to Lewiston. It is often perfectly level for several miles, and affords an idmirable foundation for the road, which has, in conse- ijuence, been laid along its top. The manner in which his singular elevation could have been made, has ex- :ited the speculations of many curious observers of jiature, and been explained in different ways. Some I-iave imagined that the ridge was, at some long past period, the shore of Lake Ontario, and was thrown up >y its waves ; but it is extremely difficult to understand aovv the waves could have managed to barricade ,hemselv^s out of a tract of countr)'. It therefore -reems more rational to adopt another theory : that the .ake was formerly still more extensive than is here Kiipposed, and overflowed the land some distance j'OUthward of this place, when a current might easily 'jave produced a bar parallel to the shore, which, kvhen left dry, might present the form of the ridge. I The ground presents a slope on each side of the ipatb, peculiarly well adapted for home lots, gardens, ^nd orchards ; and the frequency and facility of trans- portation ffive the inhabitants very manifest advantages. j Some well-built, and even handsome, houses w ill be ' observed, which are still few indeed, but show that a ^ood style has actually been introduced. Gasport, 6| miles east of Lockport, derives its name from the carburetted hydrogen gas which rises in the basin of the canal. LOCKPORT. This is one of the interesting places on the canal. Here is the noblest display of locks, two ranges, made :»f fJne hr'v:\^ «tnrie, lieinsT car!«trncted asri.in^t the brow •78 iiOun: TO .MAG AH A. f)f the Mountain Ridscp. Avbere the Ibaming- of thv. Traste \va(nr, the noi?e of liorns, and the bustle of occu- pntion excite many lively feelings. Above the locks, the Deep Cut offers a singular passage between high walls of rocks. Lockport is one of the most advantageous sites for machinery on the canal, as all the water passes down the mountain ridge, which the canal requires, for an extent of 135 miles ; Tonawanta creek being the only feeder from Buffalo to the Seneca river. It is brought down by passing round the double locks, and falls 55 feet into a large natural basin, where two ranges of overshot wheels may be built, each at least 25 feet in HAT'lLE UF Ul/iiti^iiTOAVN. 81 Vv-alei' is inuch agitated by counter currents and changing- whirlpools ; for the ferrymen are taught by their experience to manage the boat with care, and not only to take advantage of the currents, but to avoid all the rough places, ripples, and whirlpools. The banks here have an appearance very wild and striking. The rocks are a dark red sandstone, with thin ?trata of a more clayey character and a lighter colour, Dccurring every few feet. Quee7isiorv7i, on the Canada side of the river, is a ?mall town, uninteresting except so far as regards its natural situation, and some martial events of which it las been the theatre. THE BATTLE OF QUEENStOWN. During the late war between the United States and jreat Britain, in 1812, while Gen. Van Rensselaer vvas stationed at Lewislon, he formed the bold design i)f taking Queenstown; and in spite of the difficulty pf ascending the steep banks, and the fortifications uvhich had been thrown up for its defence, before day- ight on the morning of October 13th, he embarked jis troops at the ferry, and passed over the river under I :over of a battery. As the accessible points on the j .oast were strictly watched, and defended by batteries 3)f some strength, the place selected for the attack was jhe lofty and precipitous bank just above. Two or hree small batteries had been erected on the brow, , he remains of which are still visible; but this did lot discourage the undertaking. The landing was ,; effected, and in spite of the difficulty of the ascent, i he heights were surmounted, and the Americans com- sienced a brisk action on the summit. Gen. Brock, vho was at a distance, hearing the guns, hastened to ■ he spot ; but under a tree near the precipice was lilled by a chance shot. The Americans remained in :)ossession of the heights a few hours, but were then pbllared to recross the river. H o.w FALLS uj AiAl.AlLV. The MorvU3iENT to General Beock Was raised by the British government in the yeai^ 1824; and the remains of Gen. Brock and Col. M'Do- Jiald, his aid, have since been deposited there. Its height is 126 feet ; and the view from the top is very fine and extensive, the base being 350 feet above the river. In clear weather, the eye embraces not only the river below, and the towns ot Lew iston and Queens- town, but those of Newark and Fort Niagara, at tlie entrance of Lake Ontario, York harbour, Youngstown^ part of the route of the Welland canal, a vast level tract of country covered with a uniform forest, and the horizon, formed by the distant lake itself. The monument is built of a coarse gray limestone, containing enchrinites, &c. of which the hill is formed, and contains some shells and other organic remains. The old park for artillerj', and the marks of various works, will be observed in different parts of the heights. From Queenstonm to Niagara Falls is seven miles^ over a level, sandy road. The country between Niagara and York, U. C, is considered the most beautiful, most fertile, and best cultivated part of the province. It will therefore be worthy of the traveller's attention, as soon as the desired improvements and accommodations shall have been introduced. The scenery is allerriately wild and pleasing ; and the rapid progress of population, the arts, and business created by the Welland canal and its collateral works, which promise such success, v^W soon render this tract of country a favourite part of the tour of the northern traveller. A free navigation for the largest vessels used here, between Lake Erie and Ontario, must produce the most important results. Manufactories are already in operation in different places; and the inexhaustible water power of the canal will multiply them to any desirable degree. 40.000 or 5O,O0Oib<5. of raw wool are iinw anuualJv PALLS (•r .MAaAK-\. So ounsunicd in this j'eii:ion by the manufactunjis of iiarro^v doth and satinetts ; ana most of the paper used in Upper Canada is made at Crook's Mil), in West Flamborougrh. Ancient Tumuli. Near Sir P. Maitland's (four miles from Queenstown) is a rano:e of rising ground, which overlooks the country and lake for a great distance. Near the top a quantity of human bones were recently discovered by the blowing down of an old tree. A great number of skeletons were found on digging, with Indian beads, pipes, &c. and some conch-shells, shaped apparently for musical instruments, placed under seve- ral of the heads. Other perforated shells were found, such as are said to be known only on the western coast of the continent, within the tropics. There were also found brass or copper utensils, &c. and the ground looks as if it had been defended with a palisade. The Whirlpool, sometimes called the Devil's Hole, cannot be seen without leaving the road and going to the bank. The rocks are about 260 feet above the water ; they form a deep basin, and the water is ex- tremely agitated. A leisurely walk the whole distance, near the river, may please the admirer of nature ; as the high and rocky cliffs which form the banks on both sides pre- :ent a continued succession of striking scenes. Although the surface of the ground frequently indi- ■;ates the passage of water in some long past period, the whole road is much elevated above the river, and Dwing to this circumstance the traveller is disappointed at not getting a sight of the cataract from a distance, as it remains concealed by the banks, until he has ap- proached very near. It frequently happens, also, that he roar of the cataract is not perceived before reaching he inn ; for the intervening bank intercepts the sound •o much, that the noise of the wheels is sometimes sufficient to drown it entirely. Yet, strange as it ma3' appear, the inhabitants declare, that at the same time it may very probably be heard on the shore of Lake Ontario, JALl.S OF >rAUAE-A. THE FALLS OF SlAGAHA-^from the British sidg. There are two large In7is or Hotels on the Canadian side of the river, both situated as near the falls as could be desired. That kept by Mr. Forsyth stands on what ought strictly to be called the upper hank, for that elevation appears to have once formed the river's shore. This is the larger house ; the galleries and windows in the rear command a fine view of the cataract, although not an entire one, and overlook the rapids and river for several miles above. The other house is also commodious, and commands the same scene from a different point of view. Follov\'ing a footpath through the pasture behind Forsyth's, the stranger soon finds himself on the steep brow of the second bank, and the mighty cataract of Niagara suddenly opens beneath him. A path leads away to the left, down the bank, to the verge of the cataract ; and another to the right, which offers a drier walk, and presents a more agreeable and varied scene. The surface of the rocks is so perfectly flat near the falls, and the water descends so considerably over the rapids just before it reaches the precipice, that it seems a wonder that the place where you stand is not over- flown. Probably the water is restrained only by the direction of the current, as a little lateral pressure would be sufficient to flood the elevated level beside it, where, there can be no question, the course of the iiver once laj^ Table Rock is a projection a few yards from the cataract, which commands a fine view of this mag- nificent scene. Indeed, it is usually considered the finest point of view. The height of the tall on this side is said to be 174 feet perpendicular; and this height the vast sheet of foam preserves unbroken, quile round the Grand Crescent, a distance, it is esti- mated, of 700 yards. Captain Basil Hall and Mr. iALL.s OF NIAGAIU. 85 I Thompson measured the distance from Table Rock to Termination Rock in 1827, and found it to be 153 feet, f Groat Island divides the cataract, and just beyond it jptands an isolated rock. The fail on the American dde is neither so high, so wide, nor so unbroken ; yet, iif compared with any thing- else but the Crescent, Would be regarded with emotions of unequalled ■publimity. The breadth is 900 feet, the height 160, ijind about two-thirds the distance to the bottom the jj^heet is broken by projecting rocks. A bridge built ifrom the American side connects Iris or Goat Island ^ind the main land, though invisible from this spot ; and he inn on the same side, in Niagara, is seen a little l.vay from the river. The Biddle Staircase was con- 'tructed from Iris Island to the base of the precipice nelow, in 1829, at the expense of Nicholas Biddle ";Ssq. of Philadelphia, to afford a new point of view to i visiters, which is greatly admired. The construction })f this staircase is said to have opened one of the. Iinest fishing places in this part of the Union. The Kvater there is the resort of numerous fish which come ip from Lake Ontario and are stopped b^ the falls. The island is 185 feet above the gulf; the first 40 feet )f the descent is by stone steps, the next 88 by a ;piral Avooden staircase, and the remaining 80 feet by |ione steps, in three directions. j It may be recommended to the traveller to visit this |>lace as often as he can, and to view it from every leighbourino: point ; as every change of light exhibits t under a different and interesting aspect. The rain- bows are to be seen, from this side, only in the after- noon ; but at that time the clouds of mist, which are ^.ontinually rising from the gulf below, often present hem in the utmost beauty. ' Dr. Dwight gives the following estimates, in his ravels, of the quantity of water which passes the :ataract of Niagara. The river at the ferry is 7 fur- ongs wide, and on an average 25 feet deep. The current probably runs six miles an hour : but supposing- H2 OG FALLS OF 2SIAGARA. it to be only 5 miles, the quantity that passes the laJJs in an hour, is more than 85 millions of tons avoirdupois ; if we suppose it to be 6, it will be more than 102 millions ; and in a day would be 2400 millions of tons. The noise, it is said, is sometimes heard at York, 50 miles. A carriage road has been lately made to the ferry. The Rapids begin about half a mile above the cataract; and, althoufich the breadth of the river might at first make them appear of little importance, a nearer inspectioii will convince the stranger of their actual size, and the terrific danger of the passage. The inhabitants of the neighbourhood regard it as certain death to get once involved in them ; and that not merely because all escape from the cataract would be hopeless, but because the violent force of the water among the rock.> in the channel, would instantly dash the bones of a man in pieces. Instances are on record of persons being- carried down by the stream ; but no one is known to have ever survived. Indeed, it is very rare that the bodies are found ; as the depth of the gulf below the cataract, and the tumultuous agitation of the eddies, whirlpools, and counter currents, render it difficult for any thing once sunk to rise again ; while the general course of the water is so rapid, that it is soon hurried far down the stream. The large logs which are brought down in great numbers during the spring, bear sufficient testimony to these remarks. Wild ducks, geese, &c. are frequently precipitated over the cataract, and generally reappear either dead or with their legs or wings broken. Some say that water fowl avoid the place when able to escape, but that the ice on the shores of the river above often prevents them from obtaining food, and that they are carried down from mere inability to fly ; while others assert that they are sometinnes se.en voluntarily riding among the rapids,. >-l A (tAZR A, T3t D^L 10.1. (WV :ind after descending halt" waj'- down the cataract, [caking wing, and returning to repeat their dangerous ! amusement. In 1828, a small boat passed in safety I imong the islands below the bridge on the United \ States' side ; but in October of that year, two nien jivere lost in a boat which was carried down by the ice. The most sublime scene is presented to the observer when he views the cataract from below ; and there he may have an opportunity of going under the cataract. This scene is represented in the plate. To render he descent practicable, a spiral staircase has been brmed a little way from Table Rock, supported by a ^all mast; and the stranger descends without fear, because his view is confined. On reaching the bottom, 1 rough path among the rocks winds alon^ at the foot 3f the precipice, although the heaps of loose stones ivhich have fallen down, keep it at a considerable leight above the water. A large rock lies on the 'rery brink of the river, about 15 feet long and 8 feet *hick, which you may climb up by means of a ladder, ind enjoy the best central view ot the falls any where to be found. This rock was formerly a part of the projection above, and fell, about seven years ago, with 1 tremendous roar. It had been observed by Mr. ?'orsyth to be in a very precarious situation, the day llbefore, and he had warned the strangers at his house not to venture near it. A lady and gentleman, however, iiad been so bold as to take their stand upon it near ' evening, to view the cataract ; and in the night they heard the noise of its fall, which shook the house like jan earthquake. A large piece of rock, near the centre of the great horseshoe of Niagara Falls, broke off in the summer of 1829, and fell into the gulf with a crash Ihat was heard several miles off. In proceeding nearer to the sheet of falling water, I the path leads far under the excavated bank, which in ^ one place forms a roof that overhangs about 40 feet. The va?t column of water continually pouring over thf o^ FALLS OP iVIAGAliA. precipice, produces violent whirls in the air ; and the spray is driven out with such force, that no one can approach to the edge of the cataract, or even stand a few moments near it, without being drenched to the skin. It is also veiy difficult to breathe there ; so that persons with weak lungs would act prudently to con- tent themselves with a distant view, and by no means to attempt to go under the cataract. Those who are desirous of exploring this tremendous cavern, should attend very carefully to their steps, aqd not allow themselves to be agitated by the sight or the sound of the cataract, or to be blinded by the strong driving showers in which they will be continually involved ; as a few steps would plunge them into the terrible abyss which receives the falling river. In the summer of 1827, a schooner, called the Mi- chigan, which was found to be unfit for the navigation of Lake Erie, being of too great a depth of water, was towed by a steamboat to the end of Grand Island, and then by a row boat under the command of Capt. Rough, to the margin of the rapids, where she was abandoned to her fate. Thousands of persons had assembled to witness the descent. A number of wild animals had been inhumanly placed on her deck, confined, to pass the cataract with her. She passed the first fall of the rapids in safety ; but struck a rock at the second, and lost her masts. There she remained an instant, until the current turned her round and bore her away. A bear here leaped overboard and swam to the shore. The vessel soon filled and sunk, so that only her upper works were afterward visible. She went over the cataract almost without being seen, and in a iew moments the basin was perceived all scat- tered with her fragments, which were very small. A cat and a goose were the only animals found alive below. In October, 1829, the schooner Superior was towed into the current and abandoned ; but she strucfoj on a rock about the middle of the river, and there re- maim^d. The notable ium.per. Sam Patch, leaped. \h? IJATTLJ: uF CllLl'VEWS. oH ioilovviiio' day, from a ladder, 125 feet high, into the 'gulf, and escaped unhurt. The Burning Spring. t I About half a mile above the falls, and within a few jfeet of the rapids in Niagara river, is a remarkable ^Burning Spring. A house has been erected over it, iinto which admission is obtained for a shilling. The ivvater, which is warm, turbid, and surcharged with Isulphuretted hydrogen gas, rises in a barrel which has Ueen placed in the ground, and is constantly in a state jjf ebullition. The barrel is covered, and the gas i escapes only through a copper tube. On bringing a :andle within a little distance of it, the gas takes fire, md continues to burn with a bright flame until blovyn out. By leaving the house closed and the fire extin- j^uished, the whole atmosphere within explodes on Wintering with a candle. 1 While on the Canada side of the falls, the visiter jnay vary his time very agreeably, by visiting the j .Milage of Chippewa and Lundy's Lane, in this vici- nity ; which, during the late war with Great Britain. jivere the scenes of two sharp contests. The Battle op CnirrEWA. ] In July, 1814, the British and American armies heing near each other, Gen. Ripley ordered Gen. Scott ) o make an advance on Chippewa, on the 3d of July, ivith Capt. Towson's division of artillery; and the \ enemy's pickets were soon forced to retire across the j bridge. Gen. Ripley came up in the afternoon and ^ncamped with Gen. Scott's advance. The stranger may be gratified by examining the ield of these operations, by going to Chippewa vi!- 1 age, about two miles above Forsyth's. The Ameri- ::an encampment of July 23d is in the rear of a tavern lear the road, about a mile beyond Chippewa, 'jO FALLS OF INIAGAKA. On the 5tb, after some sharp shooting, the Indians were discovered almost in the rear of the American camp. At this moment, Gen. Porter arrived with his volunteers and Indians. Gen. Brown immediately- directed them to enter the woods and eifectually scour them. Gens. Brown, Scott, and Ripley were at the white house, in advance, reconnoitring. Gen. Por- ter's corps had almost debouched from the woods opposite Chippewa, when the whole British force had crossed the Chippewa bridge, and Gen. Scott ad^- vanced, and Gen. Ripley was in readiness to support. In a few minutes, the British line was discovered formed and rapidly advancing — their right (the Royal Scots) upon the woods, and their left (the prince regent's) on the river, with the king's own for their reserve. Their object was to gain the bridge across the creek in front of the encampment, which, if done, would have com- pelled the Americans to retire. Gen. Brown, fearing a flank movement of the enemy through the woods on the left, directed Gen. Ripley not to advance until he gave him orders. Meanwhile, Gen. Scott, under a most tremendous fire from the enemy's artillery, crossed the bridge, and formed his line. The British orders were to give one volley at a distance, and im- mediately charge. But such was the warmth of our! musketry that they could not withstand it. At thisj moment, Gen. Brown sent orders to Gen. Ripley to make a movement through the woods upon the ene-*! my's right flank. With the 21st regiment he passed ? ravine in his front, where the men had to wade up U their chins, and advanced as rapidly as possible. Bui before he commenced filing from the woods into thf I open land under the enemy's batteries, they had beeii| completely broken by Gen. Scott's brigade, and threw themselves across the Chippewa bridge, which they broke down. Although the Americans were not able to cross the creek, the British thought proper to evacuate Chippewa very'precipitately. and to retrf^nt towards Qneensto\vn UATTLE Ol lIKlUGEWATiiK. 9 1 , in this affair the British loss, in killed, wounded, and raiissing, was 514, and the Annerican loss 328. I Nothing of importance occurred after this until the \,25th of the same month, the date of T a The Battle of Bridge watek, or Lundy's ' Lane. E| The principal scene of this hard-fought and bloody liction is about a mile from the Falls of Niagara, at an bbscure road, called Lundy's Lane. Comfortable jtccommodations are offered there, at the inn of Mr. physler. Since their retreat from Chippewa, the ene- ]ny had received reinforcements of troops from Lord fVellington's army in Spain; and on the 25th of July ,;ncamped on a hill, with the design of attacking the ilmerican camp the next morning. At 6 in the eve- jiing. Gen. Brown ordered Gen. Scott to advance and i ttack them, which was immediately done ; and in con- junction with Gen. Ripley the attack was commenced In an hour. The British were much surprised at see- ing the approach of their enemy at this hour, not 'laving discovered them until they left the woods and *egan to march across the open level fields seen from ■'orsyth's Hotel, and about a quarter of a mile to the ^ft.^ The following letter, written by a surgeon of one f the American regiments, the day after the engage- fient, contains some interesting particulars: "The enemy had coiiected their whole force in the leninsula, and were reinforced by troops from Lord Vellington's army, just landed from Kingston. For wo hours the two hostile lines were within twenty ards of each other, and so frequently intermingled,, lat often an officer would order an enemy's platoon. :lie moon shone bright ; but part of our men being ressed like the Glengarian regiment caused the de- eption. They frequently charged, and were as often •riven back. Our resriraent, under Colonel Miller, wa:i 'JU i ALLa Ol .MaGAKA. ordered to sLorm the British battery. We charged, aiK look ev ery piece of the enemy's cannon. We kept pos session of the ground and cannon until 12 o'clock a1 night, when we all fell back more than two miles. This was done to secure our camp, which might otherwise have been attacked in the rear. Our horses being most of them killed, and there being no ropej- to the pieces, we got off but two or three. The men were so excessively fatigued they could not drag them. We lost one piece of cannon, which was toe much advanced, eveiy man being shot that had charge of it, but two. Several of our caissons were blown up by their rockets, which did some injury, and de- prived our cannon of ammunition. The lines were >:o near that cannon could not be used with advantage." The British lost, in killed, wounded, and prisoners.. • i78 ; and the Americans 860. WELLAND CANAL. it may well be recommended to the traveller to de- vote a little time to visiting this new, important and highly interesting work, which can be done by those ^vho have a short time to spare. Lake vessels arc hereafter to go up the Welland or Chippewa river to the canal ; and the visiter at Niagara will be but nbout 8 or 10 miles from some parts of it. As it may be presumed that a traveller, on a tour like the present, will of course lay aside all private, and even national feelings, sufficiently to admire what is great in the enterprise and arts of a neighbouring country, a specimen of human skill and industry bke the Welland Canal may be expected to interest those into whose hands this little volume may fall. The improvement of Upper Canada has had to en- counter great obstacles in the climate, the wildness of the countiy, the vicinity of a land under a diflferent system of government, the large reserves of soil for the support of the clergy, (onp-!?evrnth ^^ the ^vhole.) ,\ud a general want of intelligence and enterprise *imong the inhabitants. Some of these have been al- ready in a considerable degree surmounted, and are jkely to be still further overcome, by the encourage- joents oifered by the mother country, the introduction ' f scientific engineers and funds by the Canada Com- ,)an3^ and the unexpected facilities afforded to schemes jif internal improvement by the natural features of thf^ j?rovince, J The obstacle which it was the object of the Weh ■ and Canal to surmount, is of a character that gives rreat interest to the work. The largest cataract in he world, which presents a scene of confusion, uproar^ !nd tumult, that sets at nought all the rules of order nd restraint, was to be surmounted by a system of vorks in which the rush of the element, so awful, re- 'istless, and destructive, was to be curbed and tamed o a calm and gentle descent, and rendered useful to he objects of commerce. From this tremendous and destructive cataract a ,|)ortion of power was to be drawn away, insignificant ndeed, but sufficient for the necessities of thousands if men ; and " divided and conquered," reduced to he servitude of our race, rendered subservient to the .'omplicated arts of civilization, and compelled to Perform the most tiresome and trifling tasks in all their iietails. The Welland Canal begirds near the mouth of Grand iiver, which empties into Lake Erie, about 40 miles roni Buffalo. It will admit the largest vessels on the Jakes, viz. those of 125 tons. It was first opened to ' lavigation in November, 1829, precisely five years after ts commencement. The work begins at Fort Mait- and on Grand River, about 40 miles from Buffalo, .vhere it is raised eight feet above the level of Lake Elrie, and proceeds, with only descending locks, to Port ; Dalhousie, the water being taken trcm Grand River. i ibove a dam erected for the purpose, at the falls, five 1'.iilpc: from its mouth, Travell^'r' who have it m ihr^h ? 94 J-ALLS yji AlAUAliA- power should not fail to begin their voyag;e here, at.' the whole work is worthy of attention ; but the lower half of it presents the chief assemblage of interesting objects. The whole canal was nearly completed about the beginning of 1829, when the sliding of the banks at the Deep Cut, near Lake Ontario, made it necessary to make some alterations in the plan. From Lake Erie, across the Wainfleet Marsh, to the Welland or Chippewa River, the level of that lake was at first presejved. It has since been raised five feet. The Welland was to be communicated with by means of two locks of six feet lift, and to serve as a part of the navigable route for nine miles, to within three-quarters of a mile of the Deep Cut. The Deep Cut was to have been dug down to the level of the Welland ; and the excavations had already been nearly completed when the accident occuired. The canal is now car- ried across the mr.rsh at a level five feet above that of Lake Erie, to Welland River at a point five miles and a half below the place before designed ; across that river on an aqueduct, which is high enough to permit the passage of vessels ; and then along the northern bank, to the Deep Cut, at the northern end of which it descends by two locks. Beyond that point the ori- ginal plan is preserved. The Grand River, at the dam, is nine chains across; and the canal beginning at Broad Creek,near its mouth, and two miles from the uiouth of Grand River, proceeds in a perfectl)' straight line ; and a communication is open with VVelland River by locks, at the aqueduct and at the Deep Cut. Port Mail! and is capable of receiving a great number of vessels such as navigate the Lake, for which the Canal is calculated. The neighbouring part of the lake is free from ice earlier in the spiing than that near Buflalo ; and it is believed by the Ca- nadians, that the access to the mouth of the Welland; c^nal will be open about four or fivp weeks earlieir WELLAxND CAkaL. 95 .iveiy year. This of course would be a great advan- age. It is not, however, to be expected that the New- Tork Canal will suffer any injury from the present vorii. The business will soon be greater than can be Jlone upon it; and will increase with great rapidity, ^particularly after the opening of the Ohio Canal. ^ Mainfleet Marsh. This is a tract of s surmounted by the noble ; works at that place. It runs for many miles, present- ing towards the east an irregular iine of precipice, with salient and re-entering angles, like an immense fortification. Most of the streams which fall over it pour down the ravines thus formed. I An experienced and capable engineer. Judge 'Geddes, first published this fact in the Journal of Sci- , ence and the Arts, and stated that there appeared to i be every reason to suppose one of these natural ravines received the Niagara river at the Falls ; and that the; \)6 FALLS OF ^NIAGAKA. apparent attrition of the rocks for a great distance below, and the general belief of the cataract having retired for miles, are not to be confided in. The Welland River, a very sluggish stieam, \yas to he used for ten miles, being entered by a lock of eight feet lift, a towing path being formed along its bank. It was, however, determined, in 1828, to cross this "Stream by an aqueduct. This river has a course of 30 or 10 miles, between the two lakes, but nearly on a level with Lake Erie, and empties into Niagara Kiver about two miles above the falls. It was intended that vessels passing the sloop lock at Black Uock, should enter the canal by this route ; and the Canal Company were authorized to make a towing path along the Ni- agara and the Welland Rivers. Its breadth is from three to four chains. The Deep Cut. We approach a part of the canal in which the greatest labour and expense were re- quired. It extends one mile and three quarters, and required the excavation of 1.477,700 cubic yards of earth. The excavation is now to an average depth of 45 feet. The ground is undulating, and the greatest depth is 56 feet. The surface suddenly rises to the height of 3G feet ; and 106 chains further, to 56 "eet 6 inches. Thence it descends until, at the end o" the Deep Cut, it is only 30 feet. This ground has been excavated, and the level of the canal preserved, by the greatest work of the kind in America, excepting perhrps the aqueduct on the plain of Mexico. The earth, to 12 or 18 feet below the surface, was clay mixed with a little sand. Below that was a hard blue clay, frequently requiring the pickaxe. The earth dug out near the middle of the cut was raised up the banks, which are 150 feet apart at the deepest places, as the nature of (he soil required a gradual slope. In 1828, however, great masses sunk down again into the canal, so that the ex- cavations are made to a level 17 feet above that at first designed. WELLAND CANAL, 97 Lock No. 1, of the Mountain Ridge, is 4 miles and ' 23 chains from the Deep Cut. The intervening sur- vface is undulating, and the canal passes alternate ra- vines and ridges. By damming the former a little way from the line on the left, numerous pools or reser- jvoirs (taken together, two miles in length) were fonned, which would have been very useful for the Flocks. •j Near the brow of the Mountain Ridge is an eleva- - lion, which required an excavation nearly 20 feet deep ' for 20 chains. On this level are four twin bridges, '■with butments 40 feet asunder, corresponding with the ^ breadth of all the locks westward of this place, which ''are 40 feet by 125, and able to admit steamboats up to this point, either from Grand River or Niagara f River, by the Welland. Locks Nos. 1, 2, 3, 4, are in a ravine 52 chains in t length, which introduces the stranger to the most re- markable scene of the kind in the world. i The Mountain Ridge. Within the extent of a mile and 55 chains are 17 locks of 22 feet by TOO, which overcome nearly the whole elevation of Lake Erie above Ontario. The canal winds along the face of the descent, bending to the left and the right, to give room for reservoirs between the locks, necessary for a convenient supply of water. None of the locks are less than 30 yards apart. This is the only part of the route where rocks were to be excavated, and the amount of rock removed here was 70,000 cubic yards. At the foc^of this long and steep descent the canal enters a ravine, which extends two and a half miles through 12 locks, between high banks, to St. Catharine's. The descent from the top of the ridge to this place is 322 teet. Though a small vil- lage, St. Catharine's has already become a place of considerable importance. To Lake Ontario from this place, five miles, there are four locks, 32 feet by 125, and one of ten feet lift. The route runs chiefly along the valley of the principal branch of the Twelve Mile Creek. I ? ;4; iALxiS Oi-' 2S1AUAKA. Po7^t Dalhousie, the harbour of the Weliand Cana. on Lake Ontario, is protected by two fine piers, run out 200 or 350 yards, nearly at the angle of storm, which is about 80 degrees west : the eastern overlap- 1 ping the western, with a return pier, which is better j than the break-water originally proposed. The ground was here found to be a brown alluvion, well fitted foi the driving of piles. A large harbour for boats, and a timber pond for rafts, have been formed by damming the mouth of Twelve Mile Creek, which throws the w^ater back over an area of 500 acres. A waste weii lets off the surplus water without allowing it to enter the harbour, so that there is no current formed through it, and no danger is incurred of forming a bar at its mouth. A lock of five feet lift raises vessels from the harbour to the basin. It has been ascertained that a branch canal might be cut on a dead level, and at the expense of only 20,000/. from somewhere near the foot of the Mountain Ridge to Niagara, nine miles ; but no decisive measures have yet been adopted. It would cross Ten, Four, Two, and One Mile Creeks. The Canada Land Company, by whom this magni- ficent work has been planned and accomplished, is a corporation, under the parliament of the colony, with a capital of !^800,000, of which a large portion was supplied by individual subscriptions, partly in New- York and England. The government of Upper Ca- nada subscribed g200,000 and lent JglOO.OOO. That of Lower Canada subscribed g 100,000. . The British' .■^rovernment have granted them one-ninth of the whole cost of the work, and 13,000 acres of land on the route, west of Weliand River. Public stores, &c. are to be transported on the canal free of duty. This canal admits larger vessels than any other in America, except the Delaware and Chesapeake Ca- nal in Pennsylvania, for which see the index. The locks are of wood, but built on the most approved principles. The common dimensions are 100 feet TOVV.N. OF i.xll^h'tii, jy uijg, 22 wide, and 8 deep ; and are calcuiated for ves • els of from 100 to 125 tons burthen. The largest chooners heretofore used on the lake?, are stated to ■"le not more than 90 feet long, 20 wide, with a bur- then of from 60 to 90 tons. Many of the locks re- Ijjuired puddling and fla?:ging. k The lockage on this canal being all on one de- 'cent, there never can be any want of water : Lake j>ie being on the summit level. The numerous ponds ' nd pools are however convenient reservoirs. The Mature of the work is such as to allow deepening the i7ater by merely building the locks so much higher, ijnd raising the dam over Welland River. 3 Men of science in the branches of engineering ttdijch relate to the construction of canals, have spoken v^ith approbation, and frequently admiration, of the ^ lodes adopted on the line of the Welland Canal : the ■lanner of removing earth from deep cuttings; the 'lans of the wooden locks, paddle gates, draw- yridges, &c. \ The tomii ofGuelph is a creation of the year 1827 ; k was laid out and settled under the direction of the yanada Land Company ; and a village has suddenly prung up in the midst of the wilderness. The Semi- 1 ary was founded the first j'ear of its existence, and jiiere have been built the Company's office, of stone, 132 feet square, a church, and schoolhouse. This •lace is the central settlement on a tract of the Com- )any's lands in the Gore District, called the Town- hip of Guelph, containing 42,000 acres of Crown re- erves for the Six I^Jations. The Clergy Reserves are !tn the N. E. of it, beyond vv^hich are Flamboro' and I Beverly. The township of Waterloo is S. S. W. of luelph ; and probably the wealthiest farming town- hip in the province. Guelph Township has a soil of )lack, fertile, sandy loam, bearing beech, maple, elm, )ass, ash, cherry, some pine, cedar, and hemlock. The urface is irregular, and the streams swift. The town 5 on the river Speed, 12 nniles from its confluence 100 lALLS OF NIAGARA. with Grand River, 5 from Waterloo, 14 from Gait, ^o by the present road from Ancaster, and 25 from Lake Ontario. A fine straij^ht road, 8 rods wide, is to be opened in that direction. Rivers run from this town into lakes Huron, Simcoe, Erie, and Ontario; and the Canada Company intend to render them all navigable if possible. Goderich is a town lately laid out at the mouth of the Red, or Goderich River ; to which a road was making in 1828, from Guelph, by the government, and lots of 100 acres offered for sale. Burlington. The bay is remarkably fine ; it is shel- tered from every wind, contains 15,000 acres, and is 25 feet deep. The fort on the heights is very strong and commanding. A large fleet might lie under its protection. It is proposed to make a graving dock in Grindstone Creek, by damming it, under the guns of the fort. An artificial entrance has been made. Dundas, at the head of Burlington Bay, is a flourish- ing place, and rising in importance. A road was in construction to this place from Guelph in 1828. Improve tiients projected in Canada. Among the most recent projects for internal improvement in Ca- nada, is that of a canal from Lake Huron to the Bay of Quinte. This would open a communication at a distance from the frontier of the United States, by which, in time of war, goods, military stores, mum tions, &c. might be transported without the risks to which they would be exposed on the present routes. The engineers employed by the British government state that there are broken links formed by Simcoe, Cameron, Pigeon, and Front Lakes, which might be connected without any great difficulty in one entire chain of water communication. The line might touch at the Marmora Iron Works, and pass through the new settlements near Rice Lake and the River Trent, xvhich are flourishing. The population of Upper Ca- nada was believed to amount to 200,000 in 1828. It has been proposed to make canals for sloop navi- THE WESTERN LAKEjj. li) I •ation from Prescott to Montreal. The advanta.^es of tuch works, taken into view with the Welland Canal, ne easy to estimate. Before, the transportation of (1000 staves from Lake Erie to Montreal cost ^90. If Jll these canals were made, the cost would be reduced 3^50. Sloops carryina: 6000 slaves could make six )]:ips a year, and gain ^1800. A barrel of flour which aid 65. ior that distance, would pay only 3s. A ton f merchandise now costs £4 5s. for transportation etween Prescott and Mf)ntreal, and would then cost J^nly £17$. York, the capital of Upper Canada, is a place ot jGonsiderable size. The public buildings make little lf(gure. The harbour is very fine, protected by defen- jiiive works on Gibraltar Point. King's College is of oecent institution, and bears the style and privileges of university. The governor is chancellor, the Lord l^ishop of Quebec visiter, and the Archdeacon of ijrork president. The chancellor appoints professors. ""To religious tests are required except for degrees in livinity, as at Oxford and Cambridge. A road is flaking to Guelph, 47 miles, and on to Goderich, less han 100 further. THE WESTERN LAKES. Ontario is 180 miles long, 40 miles wide, 500 feet ieep ; and its surface is computed at 218 feet above he elevation of tide water at Three Rivers, 270 ^niles below Cape Vincent. '^ Erie is 270 miles long, 60 miles wide, 200 ket Ieep ; audits surface is 565 feet above tide water at Ubany. It was said, in 1823, to be between 2 and 3 eet higher than a few years before, having gradually isen. Huron is 250 miles long, 100 miles average breadth, ,)00 feet deep ; and its surface is nearly 595 feet above I he tide water. Michigan is 400 miles long, 50 wide, depth un> j>vnown : elevation the s^ime s< Ruron. 102 FALLS OF NIAGARA. Green Bay is about 105 miles long-, 20 miles "wide, depth unknown ; elevation the same as Huron and Michigan. Lake Superior is 459 mile? longr, 109 miles average width, 900 feet deep ; and its surface 1048 feet above the tide water. Hence the bottom of Lake Erie is not as low as the foot of Niagara Falls ; but the bottom of each of the other lakes, it will be observed, is lower than the sur- face of the ocean. "Lake Superior is the head fountain, the grand reser- voir of the mighty volume. After making a semi- circle of live degrees to the south, accommodating and enriching one of the most fertile and interesting sec- tions of the globe, it meets Ifie tide a distance of 2000 miles from its source, and 5000 from the extreme point of its estuary, on the Atlantic coast." The lakes have a periodical rise once in twelve years. It occurred in 1815 and 1827. The Ferry across Niagara river is about half a mile below the Fails, and may be crossed at any hour in the day, without danger, notwithstanding the ra- pidity of the current. The descent from the bank is so steep, that it has been necessary to build a. stair- case. To Buffalo on the Canada side 28^ miles. To Chippewa, 2 miles. Waterloo, (Fort Erie,) .... 16 (Over the ferry to Black Rock, 25 cts. each passenger.) Buffalo,. . 2i Opposite Buffalo, in Waterloo, are the remains of Fort Erie, a fortress of great consequence in the late war. There was a strong wail surrounded with in- trenchments reaching to the lake. The remains of the British camp are also seen, and the trees are still wounded with shot. Battle of Erie. On the 17th of September, 1814, a severe action was fought at a little distance from Fort Erie, when a part of the American garrison. 1000 regu~ JiMIAKKS ON LPPEK CAxVAJJA. iO.'> jdis and 1000 militia, made a sortie, and took the^ : British works, about 500 yards in front of their line. The British had two batteries on their left, which ,anno^ed the lort, and weie about opening a third. 'Their camp was about two rniles distant, sheltered by -a wood: their works were garrisoned with one-third of their infantry, Irora 12 to 1500 men, and a de- *tachnient of artillery. I Gen. Porter with the volunteers, Col. Gibson with the riflemen, and Maj. Brooks with the 23d and 21st light infantry, and a few dismounted dragoons, were I sent from the extreme left of the American position, by a passage cut through the woods towards the ene- my's right; and Gen. Miller was stationed in the ra- pine between the fort and the enemy's batteries ; while ;Gren. Ripley had a reserve under the bastions. A little before 3 P, M. the left columns commenced heir attack upon the enemy's right ; and Gen. Miller it the s-civne time pushed forward between Nos. 2 and knd 3 of the batteries, broke their line, and took their wo blockhouses. Battery No. 1 was soon after de- l>erted, the guns were spiked, and the magazine of No. ]) was blown up. Gen. Ripley was wounded, and pol. Gibson killed. The action lasted about an hour, 1 vhich gave time for the remaining two-thirds of the jinemy's force to march from their camp and partake I n it. The Americans at length retired with prisoners, j laving succeeded in their object. The British suf- fered so much, that Lieut. Gen. Drummond broke up liis camp on the 21st, and retired to his intrenchments i )ehind the Chippewa River. ) General Remarks on Upper Canada. This exten- ive district has begun to increase in population with ;reat rapidity, and great exertions are making to intro- luce improvements of various kinds. The Welland l^anal, which has already been spoken of, promises advantages of great importance to the colonies. 1 Emigration has been so much encouraged by the 'British government, for the peopling of this part of 104 itUUTE FKOM iMAGAKA TO :jlUx\ TiiiiiAL. their possessions, that great numbers of Irish, Scotch, and Engh'sh have come over within a few years. In the seven years preceding 1825, 68,000 emigrants ar- rived at Quebec ; in lS-25, 9000, and many since. According to Fothergill, there were tfien, in Upper Canada, 989,294 acres of cuUivated land ; grist mills. 304 ; saw mills, 386 ; merchant stores, 394 ; houses, 30,774 ; oxen, 27,644 ; milch cows, 67,000 ; calvesj 35,000 ; 290 townships surveyed, containing in all 17 million acres ; about two millions wild lands ; dis- tillers' duty, g46,000, (in 1827.) To Buffalo^ on the American side, 30^ miles. Tonavvanta Creek, where the canal passes, 11 mile.?. Black Rock, 10 Buffalo, 2| To Fort George, 4 miles. Queenstown, 7 Fort George, 7 [The route from Niagara to Albany and the Spring? will be taken up after the route to Montreal.]— Seej). 109. ROUTE FROM NIAGARA TO MONTREAL, 392 miles. Those who have never travelled through the slate of New-1i!ork, and have leisure fo make so circuitous a route, will prefer to go to Buffalo, Lockport, or Ro- chester, and take the line of the Erie Canai, the Springs, Lake George, and Lake Champlain, in their way to Montreal. Many, however, will prefer to take the more direct route, which is by the steamboats through Lake Ontario, and is performed in about two days. The American boats go from Fort Niagara to Qgdensburgh, keeping towards the southern shore., and 3 Hoiichin^ at the principal ports. The British boat.. ' make a few stops, but steer a course very near the •middle of the lake, which is the boundary betv/een the two countries : they are usually out of sight of jland about twelve hours. There are several higli points on the northern shore. The most important are the cliffs of Torento, the Devil's Nose, and the jFifty Mile Hill. Route from Niagara io Montreal. There were seven steamboats, in 1828, owned on the British side Df Lake Ontario ; the Alciope, Q,ueenston, Torento, jSir J. Kempt, Dalhousie, &c. The steamboats go to York in about 4^ hours ; stop it Kingston* in about 24 hours from Niagara, and at ^rescott in twelve hours more ; thence stage coach to Cornwall ; whence a steamboat, in five hours, brings ;ou to the foot of Lake St. Francis. A steamboat of ■)9 horse power was built in 1827, to pass the rapids I it Coteau du Lac, and to take passengers to the 'tillage of the Cedars, nine miles further than here- ofore by water. From the Cedars to the cascade s in stagf- coaches, about 16 miles. Thence a steam- )oat goes in 4 hours to Lachine ; and thence to Mon- real a stage coach, which stops at the Exchange l/oftee House. The fare from Frescott to Montreal Ivas g7— and from Niagara g20— The additional ex- |)enses for board amount on the whole iournev to I bout g2|. "^ ^ I American Boats, \Port Genesee, 72 miles, at the mouth of the Genesee [hver, IS a port of entry and delivery. Here are a ustom-house, and the village of Charlotte, in Monroe ounty. This river rises in Pennsylvania, and runs a ently winding course about 125 miles in the state of '' -It Kingston, (U. C.) is to bo seen tlie Cataraqui Brid<'e, wherp i3 • be the route between Lake Ontario and the Ottawa River The I eainboat Dalhousie, whicli first passed this bridge in 1829, is to be a hoUelfor oUiei- boaL=! on the route; viz. 76 fect^Iong, 31 feet 4mcl"'« I ">. tiicUiding the wings, draught of water 4 ff r?. 'lUG liul; IE IKUM MALMiA TO MOxnTKEAL-. Xew-York. It is navig-al^le only four miles ironi lis" mouth, to Carthage, where the banks are high, rocky, and perpendicular; and there is a fine tall (104 (eeU including the rapids, &c.) about half a mile above. Stage coaches are in waiting for Rochester, six miles. See Carthage, page 64. Great Sodus Bay, 35l m. Here are three bays in succession : Sodus, East, and Port Bays. There are three Islands, and Port Glasgow is at the head of the bay, only 10| miles from Clyde, on the canal, with a good road to it. Oswego, 28 m. This village is situated at the mouth of Oswego River, and has a good harbour, with ten feet water. Navigation on this river ended half a mile above, except for boats, which went 12 miles further. A very large button-wood tree, 35^ feet in circumference, is seen a mile from the village near the road. This place is likely to become one of the most rapid growth and improvement in all the state of New- York. Its prosperity, not being derived directly from the influence ol the Erie Canal, but from one of its principal branches, is of a date correspondent with the commencement of the latter work, 1826. (See Sy- racuse.) It was completed in 1828. It joins the Erie Canal at Salina, and will afford an interesting excur- sion either way. From the head of the fails to the village, it leads along the river's bank, preserving the elevated level almost to the brow of the hill over the Lake, and then descends by locks. For the distance of a mile the interval between the canal and the river affords the most advantageous situations for manufac- tories of 'various descriptions, for which the land was purchased in lots in 1827 at from ^2,500 to ^3,500. Lake vessels can lie on one side of the manufactories and canal boats on the other ; and Congress have ap- propriated ,^35,000 for protecting the harbour with piers. The opening of the VVelland canal will pro- bably increase the business of the place, which, be fore these improvements, ^vas out of the way of travr' saoilett's harbolk. 107 jei's, except as a point where the steamboats stopped. The lake is 70 miles wide opposite Oswego. Fort Oswego, so famous in the history of the French and revolutionary wars, stands on the east side of the river. The situation was very advantageous for the command of a larp;e extent of country, as this river is the common outlet of all the interior lakes of the state. While this post was held alternately by the French and English, they could command a great part of the trade with the Five Nations of Indians, who inhabited the country with which it communicated. Fort Oswego is elevated only about 50 feet from the level of the water ; and being overlooked by the eminence on which Fort Ontario was afterward erected, was fit only for a defence in early times. A trading house was built here in 1722, and a fort five years after. This was extended in the beginning ot the French war of 1755, when Fort Ontario was built. In the following year. General Montcalm came from Canada, and besieged the fortresses with 3000 troops, and two vessels. Fort Ontario was evacuated after one attack ; and on the following day, -August 14lh, Fort Oswego surrendered to the French, with a large quantity of stores, brought at great ex- pense through the wilderness, and 21 cannon, 14 mortars, &c. also two sloops, and about 200 boats. The captors, however, did not think proper to hold the position, but immediately abandoned it. Col. St. Leger attempted to approach Albany by this route in 1777, in order to co-operate with Gen. Burgoyne ; but he was repulsed at Fort Stanvvix by Col. Willet, and obliged to return. In 1814, on the 6th of May, the British attacked the place, and, after a loss of about 100 men, got posses- .^ion of it, but evacuated it the next day. Sacketes Harbour, 40 m. Settled in 1801. In the late war, it became an important naval station, and increased very rapidly. It is 8 miles distant from the l^ke. on Honnslow Bay. The harbour is divided into iOS EOUTE I ROM NIAGARA TO MONTEEAL. two by a narrow point, and offers great advantages for ship building-. A first rate,^^man-of-war is still un- finished on the stocks, under a shelter, and another at Black River. On the shore are seen the- stone Bar- racks, which enclose about ten acres of ground. Cape Viiicenti 20 m. The St. Lawrence is here divided by Grand Island. Kingston, in Upper Canada, lies opposite, at the distance of 11 miles. Morristown. This is a small village, 10 miles from Ogdensbuig'h. The river is a little more than a mile in breadth, and on the opposite side is Brockville. There is a number of rocky islands in the St. Law- rence, and the gentle slope of the land on the New- York shore, adds a great degree of beauty to the scene. General Wilkinson embarked at this place in 1813. Ogdenshurgh, formerly Oswegatchic. This is the end of the navigation, and here the steamboat stops. The village is pretty, contains some large stores, and carries on considerable business. On the other side of the river is Prescott, where the British steamboat stops. The ruins of Fort Oswegatckie, or Fort Pre- sentation, may still be traced. It was not very large, and contained only a bomb-proof, two buildings of stone, barracks, &c. It was built in the, beginning or middle of the last century. Grapes are cultivated here with great success. The Thousand Islands are a most beautiful part of the navigation, presentintc themselves in every variety of forms, though never rising to any great elevation. They might be compared with the islands of Lake George. Gallop Islands, 5 m. Here the rapids of the St. Lawrence begin. A number of mills will be seen at different places on the shore. On Stony Island was a fort of some consequence, which was taken by Gene- ral Amherst on his way to Montreal, in the year 1760. Si, Regis, 54 m. The Indian tribe which bears this name ha^^r* n re^prvation of Innd herp "I I mifp« bv ". KOUTE FK031 KIAGAKA TU ALliAIsi.. lU9 Lachine, 5Sm. (See Index.) Montreal, 9 m. (See do.) ROUTE FROM NIAGARA TO ALBANY. Black Rock is a pleasant village situated on the margin of Niagara River, a little way from its head, and opposite Squaw Island, at the mouth of Lake Erie. It was burnt by the British during the war in 1814, but has since been rebuilt and increased to a much greater size. Black Rock disputed with Buffalo the privilege of having the basin of the canal built in her harbour, and at last obtained it. A pier about two miles in length was built to secure the boats and ves- sels from the waves of the lake, as well as to raise the water for the supply of the canal to the Genesee River. The work, however, has its disadvantages : for the swiftness of the current in the river, and the heaping up of the ice on the shores, prove great ob- stacles to the navigation, and the pier has suffered repeated injuries. It has been partly reconstructed on an improved plan. An inclined plane is presented to the waves, &c. BUFFALO, 3 miles from Black Rock. Inns. The Eagle Tavern, &c. The situation of this village is remarkably conve- nient and agreeable, occupying a long hill of a gentle ascent, rising from the immediate vicinity of the lake. The principal street runs along the ridge of the hill, looking out upon Lake Erie to the horizon, and is or- namented with several fine blocks of brick stores and handsome dwelling-houses, together with several pub- lic buildings, all erected since the burning of the village by the British in 1814, as well as the buildings in the other streets, which are fast increasing every year. In April 1814, only one house was standing in the vil- lage, that of a widow in the upper part of the street. K 2 HO HOUTE FROM Is^IAGAltA TO ALBAIvi. A large piece of ground has been left in the middle ot the town for a public square, where several roads meet, and which it is intended to ornament with pub- lic edifices. A walk has also been laid out on the brow of the hill towards the lake. This is called the Terrace, and affords a charm ina; view upon the lake, the harbour, and the canal, to Black Rock. In 1825, a small village grew up below the terrace, 5 taverns being built, with 65 other houses, before which there was but one house. One of the inns will accommodate 200 persons. The largest store in the state is believed to be one of these, which is 90 feet by 70, and 3 sto- ries high. The township was found to contain 6000 inhabitants that year, and has greatly improved since. The harbour of Buffalo is singularly fitted by nature for the junction of the two kinds of navigation which are here brought together ; the entrance from the lake being sheltered by the point on which the light- house is erected, and the two small rivers which here unite their waters, affording every convenience for landing and reshipping goods. The shores of these are very bold, and they are connected by a natural channel, which serves the purposes of a basin, as well as of an easy communication ; and as the canal to Black Rock commences close by it, the inland trans- portation begins without more ado. Sixty vessels traded with Buffalo in 1827, including the steamboats; of vvhich number 7 were Canadian. The steamboat Pioneer plied to Dunkirk, and the Chippewa to Chip- pewa. About 30,000 barrels of salt were shipped for the westward during that year. The United States are improving the harbour. The water of the Creek was brought into the vil- lage, in 1827, from above the falls, by a canal 3 miles long, which will supply a head of water for machi- nery. A steam foundry is in operation in this town. The Canal to Black Rock is dug near the shore of the lake. The Erie Canal is supplied with water Irencp to the Sonera River, from Lakp Erie. The inr^f VOYAGE LP LAKE ERIE« lU }art ot it is through a low, sandy level, where the ixcavations were much impeded by the water which oaked through in great abundance. About half a nile from Buffalo, the workmen hit upon a bed of old lalf-decayed trees, which was dug into to the depth •f six feet, and extended about half a mile. Many tranches and logs were discovered, vvhich preserved 11 the grain of the wood ; but the greater part was a 'lack mass of matter, which, on being dried, burned vith greater readiness. In some places, ashes and oals were found ; and some of the logs appeared to ave been washed and rolled by the water of the lake efore they were buried. Chatauque Lake. A steamboat of 50 tons began to m on this lake in 1828. It performs the route frotrt araestown to Maysville in 3 hours. (For remarks on the Erie Canal see Albany.) VOYAGE UP LAKE ERIE. At Buffalo opens a very extensive route, for those ho are disposed to travel still farther westward, 'here is little to be seen along either shore of the ike, which would reward the common traveller for le tedium of a long ride over a country generally ' 'vel, or for the inconveniences he would experience I'om want of public accommodations, and even the equent absence of settlements. The price of a pas- lige to Detroit in the cabin is ^15, and in the steerage, i'here nothing is supplied but ship room and access to ,ie kitchen, half price. The following are the stop- I ing places on the passage to Detroit, with their dis- inces ; and steamboats run almost every day. (See hio Canals Index.) rom Buffalo to Erie, 90 miles Erie to Grand River, 75 Grand River to Cleaveland, ... 30 I Cleaveland to Sandusky, .... 60 I Sanduskv if^ Opfroit 7.';-TrvtR} '';30 i 13 lltXlTE W4UM rsIAUAKA TO x\LiiAML. The United States' government are improving sevt jal of these harbours, as there is not a natural one be tween Buffalo and Sandusky. In 1827, there were 475 arrivals at the latter port. The American Fui Company bring down ^250,000 to ^300,000 in furs. The steamboat Pioneer runs from Buffalo to Dun kirk, connecting with the stage coaches to Cleave land, which divide there, and go south to Worcestei and to Newburgh, and west to Milan and Lovvei Sandusky. At Dunkirk begins a portage of 7 miles to Casdaga lake, and the w^aters of the Ohio river. Michigan is a territory fast rising in population, wealth, and importance. A large branch of the tide of emigration from the eastern states and New-York has been turned in that direction, and still further west, encouraged b}'- the judicious system adopted by the government of the united States, in selling the land at reasonable prices for cash. Experience has proved, in other public lands, the difficulties that must ever arise from credits to settlers, even with nominally higl; prices. The sober, industrious, and frugal can gene- rally produce or borrow money enough to purchase a small farm ; and then they have many encouragement-^ to exertion, which a wretched population in debt would never feel. There may be seen a state oi things similar to that witnessed in Ohio twenty or thirty years ago ; and in that length of time it is pre- sumed that changes no less important will be pre- sented in Michigan. The surface and soil are favourable to cultivation. There is a succession of gentle undulations, gradually rising towards the interior ; and the regularity of the ground, with the remarkably open nature of the forests, it is said, permit carriages to travel for hundreds of miles without meeting any obstacle. It has been pro- posed to avoid the long circumnavigation of the whole peninsula, by making a canal across the neck. Green Bay, on Lake Huron, is interesting as a posi- tion occupied by a military garrison, and the seat of a aincie^t fortifications. 113 ai^e number of Indians, for whose improvement some xeTtlons have been recently made. Tlie principal ribe residing there are the Menominie, or JVild Rice ndians, who are both numerous and powerful, and ,)artly civihzed. The Fox river, which empties into Green Bay, flows hrough a very fertile country ; and the time is not I'ery far distant when the head waters of the stream vill be united by a canal with the Ouisconsin, which lows into the Mississippi. The climate of Green Bay s remarkably healthful. The lead mines on Fevre liver are now wrought by about five thousand men. I The following are the boundaries of the proposed ,'.ew territory, to be called Huron : from the north-east orner of the state of Illinois, northwardly, down the :iiddle of Lake Michigan, to the " Big Fox Island;" ' nd thence, due north to the Canada line, or north- Ivardly, down the middl*^ of the lake, and through the traits, east and south of the "Bois Blanc Island," to he Canada line. Ais^ciENT Fortifications. On Buffalo Creek, and tow^ards Genesee Kiver also, re several large and interesting remnants of ancient jrtifications ; but as they lie off the road, few travel- ers will visit them. They appear to form part of a ;reat chain of defensive works extending from the astern part of Lake Ontario, along that lake and Erie, llown the Ohio and Mississippi rivers to Mexico. This is the opinion of Mr. Atwater, of Circleville, Ohio, jvho has published some very interesting details, Irawings, &lc. connected with them, in his " Archse- ilogia Americana." A line of old forts extends from ^ataraugus Creek, 50 miles, along the shore of Lake Y^v'ie, to the line of Pennsylvania. They are on the ^orders of creeks and oU bays, although now from j wo to five miles distant from the lake, which is sup- loosed to have retiro^l t.hr>t di«tartro sinro thev werr 114 UOVTE X:R0M KIA&AKA To ALiiAAli. built. Another similar line is said to exist in the rea; of them, on another parallel elevation. Much curiosity and speculation have been callec forth by these sing^ular monuments of antiquity. Some regard them as marks of a civilized people : other- ns the works of Indian tribes. Some traces of a tra- dition referring them to the latter, are said to hav^' been lately discovered. Seneca Castle.— -The Seneca nation possess a large and valuable tract of land adjoining Bufialo, on the .east, and they have two villages three and five mile; on the road. The Senecas are the westernmost tribo^ in the confederacy of the Five Nations, and have al- ways held a conspicuous rank in their histor3^ The}-' were formerly consideted the most numerous antl powerful tribe, and preserved this superiority until thr latal defeat the}^ received from General Schuyler, ii 1778, since which they have made a less conspicuou- figure. Besides the land they possess, which is remarkable for its t'ertility, the nation are in possession of a lar^c sum in the United States' Bank stock, the dividend to;. which they receive annuall3^ The traveller will observe several farms under a degree of cultivation, and may meet with individual? who conform pretty nearly to the English style ot dress, and have introduced some of our customs intc their houses. The greater part of them, however, speak no language but Indian. Stage Road from Buffalo to Caxakbaigua. I The first few iiiiles of this road present very little j interest ; 15 or 20 miles of it were formerly remarkable j as passing over an old causeway of logs. The logs j made the travelling rough and disagreeable ; but as ' they are gradually covered over with earth, the diffi- culties are lessening every year. To those who are not accust'^rried to a conntrv sn new and ■^vild as this. h word or two may not be amiss on the oianner in vhich roads are first made in an American settlement. in thick forests, the surface of the ground is covered lo the depth of one or two feet with the roots of treeSj ij.vhich are extreme!)^ difficult to be removed, and are E 'ery dangerous for horses or oxen to pass over. A close Ivi'ayer of logs, although itself sufficiently rough, forms I much safer and more convenient path, and is usually iidopted with great advantage. There is another reason for it — the elevation of the road above the bommon surface, secures it from being overflowed by ij he water, which in the moist seasons of the year iiivould impede the travelling in low and marshy places. Batavia, 40 miles from Buffalo, is a very handsome ){ pillage, and contains the residence of the present and i ormer agents of the Holland Land Company, (Messrs. ijSvans and Otto,) as well as the county buildings.* : Leroy, 10 miles. I [Springs. In Avon, 2| miles from the road through J hat village, are 8 or 10 springs, where are boarding nouses.] I The PVadstVorth Farm, at Geneseo, contains about 1000 acres, about 1700 of which are rich alluvial land Ian the banks of the Genesee river. Various branches i jf agriculture have been tried on this fertile tract of 'country ; but the raising of sheep has been found the most profitable, and the farm has been almost entirely converted into mowing fields and pastures. The number of sheep, in 1827, was computed at 13,000. The residence of the proprietor is in a fine and spa- cious building, in a commanding situation ; and the whole aspect of the farm indicates the good order and itiethod with which it is conducted. Mr. Rogers has a very fine farm in Moscow. The Genesee meadows v.'eie formerly the residence of a large tribe of Indians of the Seneca nation ; and ^vhen Gen. Suiiivan reached this place, in his march * f^fac^ -^rtrrr Jit's rnh Trom r. 11 Hi vi^fol^ oci. ester. ii ' liULTE iiio.^i AlAC.iKA i'U ALliAAl. Ihrough the country, he found and burnt a village ci 120 log houses, on the second bank, which had been deserted at his approach. One of his scouts was cut off wiiile his army was near the west bank of the river, and only one man escaped ; but the Indians constantly fled as he approached, and there was no fighting in all this western part of the state. The remains of a mammoth were dug up about half a mile from the village of Geneseo in 1825. There were 8 teeth and grinders, parts of a tusk, a thigh bone 3 feet long, the lower bone of the leg 3 feet 6 inches, &c. They lay between strata of vege- table mould and sand. West Bloonifield, beyond the Genesee river, is one ' -•(f the finest agricultural townships in the state, and ; presents a succession of beautiful farms, tilled with ' care and yielding the finest crops. Fruit thrives re- i markably well in all this western country, as the ;4ightest attention to the orchards will sufficiently i prove; and while in smoothness and neatness the fields ] ]ival those of the oldest districts farther east, the or- chards exceed them in luxuriance and product. The Hack apple is a species of fruit which has been said to be peculiar to this region. East Bloomfield is the next village ; and the general remarks just made, may with justice be applied to this place also. CANANDAIGUA, (nn. Blossom's Stage House. This is one of the finest vyestern towns, and its prin- cipal street runs along the ridge of a commanding hill, rising from the north end of Canandaigua Lake. It is wide, and contains an academy, and many hand- some houses, particularly that of the late Gideon Granger. The road, in passing Canandaigua Lake, commands a finer view than on any of the other lakes it passes, except Skeneateles. The banks are high i.nd varie£ratea. and at the distance of two or three //.» O 3^ 'iT JL M Jl (D I iiiiies, rise to an imposing height, and add a great de- gree of beauty to the scene. A number of gentle- men's seats are seen along the western bank ; and a 1 little way off in the lake on the same side, is a small 'yocky island, where the Seneca Indians carried all 'their women, children, and old men, when Gen. Sulli- ;van appeared against them. I The new steamboat Lady of the Lake began to run regularly on Canandaigua Lake in 18'37 ; and a hotel was to be built at the head of it. It is on the j Annesley plan — that is, built entireljr of boards with- lOut the use of timbers. — A railroad is to be made to the Canal. Stage coaches go to Rochester every day. BURNING SPRINGS. Springs of water, charged with inflammable gas, are quite common in Bristol, Middlesex, and Canan- daigua. The gas from the former rises through fissures of the slate, fiom both the margin and the bed of the brook. Their places are known by the little hillocks of a few feet in diameter, and a few inches high, formed of a dark bituminous mould, through which it tinds its way to the surface, in one or more currents. These currents of gas may be set on fire, and will burn with a steady flame. In winter they form openings through the snow, and being set on fire, exhibit the novel and interesting phenomenon of a steady and lively flame in contact with nothing but snow. In very cold wea-, ther, it is said, tubes of ice are formed round these currents of gas, (probably from the freezing of the water contained in it,) which sometimes rise to the height of two or three feet, the gas issuing from their tops ; the whole, when lighted in a stil! evening, pre- senting an appearance even more beautiful than the former. From a pit which was sunk in one of the hillocks. Wij liOtrii l'Ko3I ^NIAGARA iO ALEA.N V . the gas was conducted through bored logs, to ihekilcher of a dwelling. The novelty of the spectacle attracted a concourse of visiters, so great that the proprietors found it expedient to convert their dwelling into a public inn. The road between Canandaigua and Geneva passe;? over a singular tract of countr}-, the form of which will not fail to be remarked by an observant traveller. The ground gradually rises by large natural terraces, or steps, for about half the distance, and descends in the same manner on the other side to Seneca Lake. These steps, or terraces, appear to have been formed by those strong currents of water of which geologist- speak, which at some ancient period of time have evi dently passed over many tracts of country in different parts of the world. The ridges and channels thus formed here stretch north and south, frequently to a considerable distance, corresponding both in form and direction with the numerous lakes which are found in| this part of the state. Several ancient tbrtitications | have been traced here. From the middle ridge the view is extensive ; but the surrounding country is of too uniform a surface to present any remarkable variety of scenery. GENEVA. This town occupies a charming situation at the loot of Seneca Lake, and for a mile along its western bank, which rises to a considerable elevation above the sur- face, and affords room for a broad and level street. The buildings in this village are remarkably neat and handsome. A college has lately been instituted in this place, i The building is of stone, with 26 rooms for students, a | chapel, and librar)^ It is warmed only by sloxesg | Rev. J. Adams is president. ■. j The steamboat Seneca Chief, in 1829, ran daily to i Jeffersonville, (at the head of the lake,) and back again, oiferinp: ♦bo traYcller an ai^rc^able excursion- Dresden and Ovid. 12 miles from Gene%'a, are op- posite each otlier. The former stands at the outlet of Crooked Lake. The Penyan descends nearly 400 ' eet, aftbrdin^ excellent mill seats. South from this is iihe former abode of Jemima Wilkinson. ' Strakie's Point is 6^ miles south of Rapelyea's Ferry. 'The shore is there very bold, so that the Seneca Chief i~an pass within a k\v leet of the land. Much lumber ^!s exported from this place, brought from Eddystown, which is a mile inland. Big Stream Point, 4 miles. Here is a fall in a tri- jbutary of this beautiful lake, of 136 feet, by whieti tscveral mills are supplied. The eastern shore is generally handsomely culti- t-ated; but near the head of the lake, on the western • ?ide, about 15 miles of the shore is covered with forest. [The land rises, and becomes rough and hilly. Hector^s Fallsj 3 miles from the lake, are 150 feet j;n height, and supply several mills. Jeffersonville and Uiarana are two villages at the head of the lake. J [Travelling southward from Geneva. A line of stage ':oaches goes, in connexion with tlie steamboat, from Greneva, every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, via Bath, Painted Post, Lawrenceville, Willardsburg, Ca- hal Port to Trout Run, and via Elmira and Troy to Trout Run, on the other days of the week — and daily, j 'except Sundays,) from Trout Run through Williams- port, Pennsborough, Milton, Northumberland, Sunbuiy, Selinsgrove, Liverpool to Harrisburg. From Harris- '3urg a line runs every day through to Philadelphia — md one daily, (except Sundays,) to Baltimore and HVashington City— through in^ve days. Returns in :he same way. At Northumberland it intersects a line hat runs three times a week to Wilkesbarre : at Wil- iamsport, a line that runs to Bellefonte, Alexandria, ind intersects the Pittsburg line : at Elmira it intersects i line running to Ithaca, Owego and Montrose : at Bath, a line to Angelica and Glean Point, and one to J Da n-^v) 11 p. Op ne'=po. Rochester, FnfTaln. and Niagara ! 120 ROUTE FEOM JylAGAKA TO ALBANY. Falls. At Geneva, this line intersects 4 daily lines running east and west, and also 3 daily lines running- north to the Erie canal. The journey from Geneva or Rochester to Baltimore, is performed by this line in five days, by daylight, passing through a fine, healthy, and highly cultivated country, travelling upwards of 100 miles on the beau- tiful banks of the Susquehannah, and about 50 miles on the bank of the Pennsylvania canal.] Seneca Lake is 35 miles long, and about 3 or 4 wide* Its depth is unusually great, and the water clear and very cold, to which is referred the scarcity of fish There is a remarkable phenomenon long observed by those who reside near it, which has never been satis- factorily accounted for. The water has a regular risejf and fall every seven years. The Chemung Canal is to be made from the head wa-' ters of this lake to the Chemung river, with a feeder. A stage coach runs from Geneva up the east side of the lake, and then crosses to the head of Cayuga lake, to the village of Ithaca ; but the road is not interesting, ^ and the more agreeable mode of reaching that village | is by taking the steamboat at Cayuga bridge, 14 miles from Geneva, on the great mail route. The Cayuga and Seneca Canal, which was com- pleted in 1828, has opened boat navigation between these lakes and the Erie canal, and a packet line was to run to Troy, early in 1829. The Cayuga and Seneca Canal passes through Wa- terloo, from Geneva down the valley of Seneca Miver to Montezuma, on the Erie canal. It is 20 miles and 24 chnins in length, of which ten miles is an inde- pendent canal, and the remainder a slack water navi- gation. It has 7 locks, being 73^ feet lockage, 19 bridges, 5 safety gates, 5 dams, G culverts, 17 miles of fence, 3 lock houses, and 1 collector's office. Cayuga Lake is 40 miles in length, and generally about 2 in breadth. A fine bridge is built across it near the northeni end, where it is a mile Avide. The ITHACA A?vD OSWEGO KAILROAD. 12' steamboats Telemacbus and Experiment ply between ' I^ayu^a bridge and Ithaca, at the head of the lake. i The former is on Annesley's plan, and canies only lassengers. The De Witt Clinton is a new boat, on 'he same plan ; 100 feet long, with three cabins, a >romenade, large enough to accommodate a con- iderable number of passengers, and is frequently crowded with parties from the neighbouring country, /IS well as travellers, as the excursion is one of the ; )leasantest that can be taken in this part of the state. jj t also connects several lines of stage coaches, which jhe traveller will do well to notice if he wishes to go to Catskill, JVewburg, JVeTs^-York^ or New- Jersey, by he most direct routes. These routes will be noticed )n arriving^ at Ithaca. ^ The price of a passage in the steamboat is one lollar. A little before arriving at the head of the lake, >; beautiful waterfall is seen on the left hand, where a ^:tream of water flows over a very high precipice into ]i deep glen, and forces its way along, turning several laluable mills in its course. The landing place is jibout three miles from the village of Ithaca, but lumber boats can pass the bar at the mouth of the inlet, and proceed up to the street. ( The village of Ithaca is neat and flourishing. Here centre three roads to Catskill, JVewburg, and New- iV^ork. The first leads nearly in a direct line to the Hudson River, the second passes the Great Bend of he Delaware, and the third furnishes daily the shortest ;oute to New- York. \ The Cascade. This beautiful and romantic scene, ibout 3 miles from the village, is one of the most pic- liiresque that can be imagined. The height and so- lemnity of the surrounding rocks, the darkness of their I shadows, and the beauty of the sparkling spray, unite ' o produce an impression of pleasure which is rarely 3xperienced at the sight of any scene, however extra- i )rdinary for beauty or sublimity. The Fall river de- 5cends 438 feet in a mile. The Great Fall i« 116 f^et. L 2 1^22 KOUTE PKOM KIAGARA TO ALBAKV. The other falls in tliis vicinity are the Cascadilla, Tauqkanic, (262 feet,) Six Mile creek, Buttermilk, &c. Ithaca and Oswego Railroad. The legislature, in 1828, passed an act authorizing the construction of a railroad trorn this place to the Susquehannah river at Oswego. The distance is about 30 miles ; the expense is estiujated at $120,000, or $4,000 a mile. This is one-fourth more than tlie Mauch Chunk railway cost, and the sa ne price as that estimated for the Hudson and Delaware Railway, the rails for which have been imported from England. The soil and surface are favourable ; labour and materials cheap ; and the amount of produce which would pass that way from the neighbouiing country, is estimated at 12,000 tons annually, which alone would pay 16 per cent, on the cost. To this ought to be added about 10,000 tons oi plaster and salt. The market for lumber is best at New- York- 500 tons of plaster and salt are now annually transported from Ithaca to Oswego by land, and sent down tlie Susquehannah. In consequence of the earlier opening of navigation on the Susquehannah, in the spring, than on the Erie canal, and its being closed later in the fall, great ad- vantages, it is thought, would be obtained by Balti- more ; and even the fact that the navigation is longer free on the western than the eastern part of that canal every year, would probably divert a considerable amount of transportation to this route. It is stated that the freight of a barrel of whiskey or pork from Ithaca to Baltimore, would be only 92 cents ; while it is $1 19 to New-York by the Erie canal. The Cayuga and Susquehannah Canal. The route proposed is from Cayuga lake, near the mouth of Cascadilla, through Ithaca, along Mud Creek and the valley of the Oswego, to the Susquehannah. The amount of lockage is 760 feet ; the distance 31 miles ; and the estimated expense 320,000 dollars. Auburn is another beautiful village, and merits the name it has borrowed from Goldsmith's charmins: STATE PRISON. 123 Ijr'oetiy. It is unfortunately placed at some distance •om the lake, and therefore is deprived of the pic- iresque character which it might have enjoyed, 'here is a Theological Seminary in Auburn, which has a ' ood number of students. There are several handsome - ublic buildings in this place, but the most important •:? the i State Prison. :\ 3 This institution, having been managed by Mr. Lynds, ind established on his system, so excellent, so cele- m^ated, and with remarkable success, merits particular ijotice. 5 The old Auburn prison was built in 1817, and cost Jiibout $300,000 ; it is constructed upon the plan of a Jiiollow square, inclosed by a wall of 2000 feet in extent, , ^eing 500 feet on each side, and, for the most part, 35 -feet in height. The north wing of the building differs i eiy much in its construction from any building of the i{j;ind, and the use of which is conceived to be one of rjhe greatest improvements in prisons, and one of the )est aids to prison discipline, which have been any .vhere made. The workshops are built against the nside of the outer wall, fronting towards the yard, from which every shop is visible, forming a continued :"ange of 940 feet. With such alterations as it may I -indergo, it can be made to hold 1100 convicts. At ][he close of 1829, it contained 639. ? " The new building contains 400 cells, and covers onlj^ 1 206 by 46 feet of ground. There are 5 stories of cells, each containing eighty in two parallel lines, divided in the middle by a wail two feet thick. The walls between the ceils are one foot thick. The cells are 7 feet long, 7 high, and 3| wide, intended to re- Iceive only one convict in each. Each cell has a ven- tilator extending to the roof, and is so constructed in I front, that the prisoners can neither converse or make signs to earh othop. The area around the cells is ten 124 ROUTE FROM NIAGARA TO ALBAKX. feet wide and open to the roor,\vhich covers the galle- ries of the several stories. Besides the moral benefit arising from keeping the prisoners separate, it unites that of economy and security. From the construction of the prison, 5 small stoves, 6 large and 13 small lamps, all out of reach of the convicts, afford heat and light to 555 cells ; and one sentinel is sufficient to 400 prisoners. The discipline only requires to be seen to be duly appreciated. The conduct of the prisoners while at their labour, and their quietness under the privations of the prison, prove that the discipline is complete and effective ; and the main cause of the order and decorum thus observed, is, that in all matters of disci- pline, there is but one head or principal." Minute observations on the comparative labour of a free person and a convict show that the latter does' not accomplish as much in a day as the former. In this prison, under the direction of Mr. Lynds, (now superintendent of the Singsing prison,) the great system of reformation in discipline commenced. The pardoning power is now exercised with great caution by the executive ; for perhaps no circumstance has so much contributed to do away the terrors of punishment as the facilities afforded the worst part of our species in obtaining a pardon. Ancient Fortifications. There are some remains of ancient fortifications in the vicinity of this place, as well as in the neighbouring towns of Camillus, Onon- daga, and Pompey. If the traveller should wish to take the canal, a stage coach goes every day to Weed's Basin, 8 miles, and carries passengers for 50 cents, to meet the canal boats, which pass at stated periods. FROM AUBURN TO SYRACUSE, By the Canal, 34 miles. (Stage coach to Weed's Basin,) .... 8 milest Jordan village, in Camillus tov^nship, . . 6 FEOM SYRACUSE TO UTIC'A. I i) .1 proposition has been made for a canal from Jordan to Homer, on the Susquehannah, which has been found practicable. The dis- tance is 34 miles, of which, only 14 will re- quire to be dug. ^anton, (half-way village between Buffalo and Albany, 179 miles from the former, and 183 from the latter,) 6 mile^^. xeddes village, (with salt works,) . . 12 Syracuse, - By the Road, 28 miles. skeneatelcs, 8 Vlarcellus, 6 '3nondaga, 10 'Syracuse, 4 ' Syracuse. For a description of this place, as well ' is of Salina, the Salt Spring, and Salt Manufactories, lee page 69. i Although the routes east of Syracuse, both by the :anal and by the road, are given in other places, and ilthough they may be traced on the maps, it may lerhaps be convenient to have them repeated in the 'eversed order, for travellers going tov^'ards Albany. ]' For places see Index.) FROM SYRACUSE TO UTICA, By the Canal, 61 miles. I ^lanlius Landing,* . . ." 9 iChitteningo Creek, 8 [ -\t Chitteningo is an Academy where some of the higher branches are taught. (A curious petrified tree near this place, a few steps from the canal, was found with many of its ' branches.) « About 20 yards from tlio canal, Gvpsum 'plaster »><' Pnvi'^" is; oVt- *ain<^i1 fn massp? of fvmri 1 to 100 ton*. " 126 ROUTE FROM NIAGARA TO ALBANY. Canastota village and basin, 8 miles* Oneida creek, 3 Wood creek, 13 Rome, 3 Oriskany village, 8 Whitesborough, 3 Utica, . 4 By the Road, 48 miles. Derne, ti Manlius, 3 Sullivan, 9 Vernon, 11 Westmoreland, 6 New-Hartford, 7 Utica, 4 For Utica, Hamilton College, and Trenton Falls, see page 62. FROM UTICA TO SCHENECTADY, By the Canal, 79^ miles. Lock, No. 53 (end of the long level, which begins westward at Salina, and extends to this place, 69i miles, without a lock,) . . 9 Bridge over the Mohawk, and Herkimer vil- lage, 5 Little Falls, 8 Fall Hill, a mountain on the right, 518 feet higher than the canal, 712 above high water in the Hudson River, and about 145 above Lake Erie, 1 Old Mohawk Castle, 5 Fort Plain, 9^ Canajoharie, 4 A railway has been proposed, to run hence ay tsk toCatskill 60 IKOll SCHEIE ECTAl>i* TO ALBAir. 121 Anthony's Nose, 5 miles. (This scene is represented in the plate from this side. The bluff on the right is Anthony's Nose, on the top of which a remarkable cavern opens, extending further down than it has ever been explored.) Schoharie Creek, 11 Amsterdam Village, (across the river,) . . 5 Flint Hill, 6 Rotterdam Flats, 8 Schenectady, 3 Road to Mhany, \oh miles. Numerous coaches JO every day. A railroad is to be constructed. Road to Ballston and Saratoga. Both these roads Dffer the shortest and most expeditious communication with the places to which they conduct, and if the tra- veller should be in pressing haste, he should avail limself of them. To travellers of leisure and taste, however, the canal 3oats are recommended to the Mohawk bridge, al- hough they are liable to many delays at the numerous ocks along this difficult but interesting part of the canal. FROM SCHENECTADY TO ALBANY, " By the Canal, 2Sh miles. ^Alexander's Bridge, (on the turnpike road to Albany and Boston — an interesting scene,) 4h Upper Aqueduct, (on which the canal crosses the Mohawk,) i The Young Engineer, a rock on the right, so called, where the cutting is the deepest on the whole route, viz. 3-3 ket, 4 Wat Hoix Gap, 5i (A natural channel, through which the canal is led iiore than 200 yards. The rocks are graywackc 1 ;late. In the river is the Wat Hoix Rapid, which the ll'ndians called the Evil Spirit, and sometimes the !► White Hon:e.) I' iit; llOUTE FROM xMAtiAliA To ALliAiNi. Lower Aqueduct, 1188 feet lonp;-, on which the canal crosses tlie Mohawk ag^ain, on 24 stone abutments and piers, 2i iniie,'- The four Locks, 8 feet each, and Cohoes Falls, 2 The two Locks, 9 feet each, ■} The three Locks, and the Cohoes Bridge over the Mohawk, } (Hence to Waterford, on the road to Ballston, Sara- toga, &.C. is about a Diiile and a half, where stage coaches are continually passing in the visiting seasoi|. By leaving the boat here, or a little below, where tii canal meets the road, a seat may frequently be found, in a passing coach, to Waterford or the Springs ; or some may prefer to take a boat on the Northern Canal, which is close at hand. We shall take up the land route after giving the few remaining objects on the Avay to Albany, and referring the reader to page 39 for a description of that city.) The Junction, where the Northern Canal, from Lake Champlain meets the Erie Canal, i West Troy, 1 (Here is a cluster of buildings about the basin- where the Troy boats lie. The Lift Lock has been before described. The dam across the Mohawk wil" afford an easy communication^ Letween the canal and Troy, which is seen on tht opposite side. A gooo horse feriyboat plies below.) United States' Arsenal, 1 The Manor House of Gen. Van Rensselaer, called Rensselaerwyck, 5 Albany, 1 WATERJj'OliJ^. l^i) ROUTE TO THE SPRINGS. I' [For the Road and Canal between Albany and VVa- ■terford, see page 47, and onward.] j WATERFORD. t This village is situated on the western side of the )(Hudson, across which the communication is convenient Ijby means of the first bridge we have seen over this ir-'iver. Lansingburgh stands opposite, and is a place )-)( considerable size. The streets of Waterford are I .vide, regular, and handsornely built. Some of the ), private houses are remarkable for their neatness^ There are numerous rocky islands with precipitous ides, at the mouth of the Mohawk River, which are jieen at a little distance below the bridge. The boats )n the Champlain Canal enter the Mohawk in full view )f them, through guard locks, and are poled across ; he current being stopped by a dam. During the warm eason of the year, Waterford is a great thoroughfare, ying on two roads to Albany, as well as in the way ,0 both Ballston and Saratoga Springs, Lake Georgey ic. It is 2U miles to Ballston Springs, and 24 to Saratoga. The approach to the village from the south-west, by he canal and the road, is uncommonly beautiful. It ies quite below you, with a little meadow in front, bounded by the canal and the Hudson, its white houses ningled with fine trees, and Diamond Hill rising be- 'ind, with its sides half cultivated, and half covered pith woods. A few chrystals are found on Diamond Hill. Inn. Demarest's Stage House. The shortest road from Waterford to Ballston ;prings is through Newtown, 18^ miles. It passes • ci' higher land than that through Mechanicville, and M 130 ROUTE TO THE SPRIKGS. perhaps is not more sandy, but is not furnished with stage coaches. The usual road will be given afterward* On leaving Walerford it verges to the west, and rises to an elevation of considerable height, which affords a view towards the south over a charming piece of country : the high, half-cultivated range of hills, which extend some miles down the Hudson in the rear of Lansingburgh and Troy, together with a broad strip of land on each side of the river, including the tract on the west bank, divided by parts of the Champlain ana Erie canals, and the mouth of the Mohawk river. From ;vvo miles further on, Saddle Mountain appears in view in the east, with a single peak more in the north, and at a still greater distance^ Much of this road is sandy, and a great deal of wheal and clover is cultivated. Newtown^ Sj miles from Waterford. Half Moon, 4. From this place, the Catskill Moun- tains are plainly visible in clear weather. Second Inn in Half Moon, 4. About 3 miles beyond this place, the view opens^ and shows that the traveller is in a kind of amphi* theatre : the Greenheld Mountains in the weststretch<» jng far away towards the north, and the Vermont mountains in the east, which seem to approach thera as the)'^ retire, with several fine and prominent peaks, 'i Particularly one which is about three miles beyond \ ennington, Vt., famous for the defeat of Col. Baum, in the Revolution. Afterward the road passes near Ballston village, but without affording a sight of it. The Springs, being situated in a little valley, two miles beyond, the first intimation you have of your approach is the sight of several tall evergreens, and a small pleasure house on the top of a sharp hill, in the rear of Aldndge's boarding-house. STILLWATER- KJl sFrom Waterford to the Springs, by Me- chanicville. This is the usual road, but offers few objects of ^ interest. I Mechanicville, or the Borough^ 8i miles from Wa- ' terford. Here the coaches g:enerally stop for breakfast 'or dinner. Near at hand is a Cotton Manufactory, iwhence the place derives its former name. • Dunning-street. — Here is a little viiJage, at which ' the road turns off west for the Springs. About a mile 'south of it we cross the Northern canal. [Stillwater is 3 miles above, and 4 miles beyond that is Smithes Tavern^ where those will stop who wish to (visit the battle ground, at Bemis's Heights.] I Although the great crowd of travellers on this road will take the route to Ballston or Saratoga, yet as they tlwill find few objects of any interest, it may be proper jto introduce, in this place, an account of the expedition ■ of Gen. Burgoyne, and the battle of Bemis's Heights, pften known by the name of the battle of Saratoga ; as we are within a few miles of the field. Stillwater takes its name from the smoothness and quietness of the Hudson, which there spreads out over a broad surface, and hardly shows any appearance of ^a current. It is the place to which Gen. Schuyler I retreated at the approach of Gen. Burgoyne, after ' removing all the stores, driving away the cattle, and throwing all possible obstacles in his way ; afterward retiring to the island at the mouth of the Mohawk : and through this place, Gen. Gates, who sodo after succeeded him in the command, marched up from Half Moon to take position on Bemis's Heights. The reader is referred to the Maps, to observe the importance of the tract of country which lies along the route we have just entered upon. From Canada ioii ROUTE TO THE SPRINGS. to the head of Lake Champiain there is an uninter- rupted water communication, by which troops and every thing necessary to an army may be transported with the utmost facility. A. short land carriage reaches Lake George. Wood Creek, at the south end of Champiain, is navigable in boats to Fort Anne, which is only 9 miles distant irom Fort Edward, on Hudson river, whence the navigation is open to New-York. Here have consequently been many of the most im- portant military operations which have ever been carried on in the United States. The first battle within this region, of which history gives any account, was fought between the French and the Five Nations of Indians, soon after the settlement of Canada, when the latter first learned the terrible effect of gunpowder, and began to flee from the approach of civilization. In the numerous expeditions which at subsequent pe- riods were undertaken by the British against Canada, this route was taken in the attack, and not unfrequently in the retreat. The important events of the war of 1755 were almost confined to this region ; and the Revolution and the last war with England produced scenes which will be touched upon in their places. The first period to which we shall refer, is that of ihe Revolution ; and the first scene, that of the battle of Saratoga, or Bemis's Heights, towards which we are fast approaching. " I could here," says Dr. Dwight, " almost forget that Arnold became a traitor to his country, and satisfy myself with recollecting, that to his invincible gal- lantry, and that of the brave officers and soldiers whom he led, my country was, under God, indebted, in a prime degree, for her independence, and all its con- sequent blessings. I should think an American, par- ticularly an inhabitant of New-England or New-York, little to be envied, whose patriotism did not gain force upon the heights of Stillwater, or the plains of Sara- toga. These scenes I have examined : the former with solemnity and awe. the latter with ardour and burgoyne's expedition. 133 admiration, and both with enthusiasm and rapture. Here I have remembered, and here it was impossible not to remember, that on this very spot a controversy was decided, upon which hung the liberty and happi- Iness of a nation destined one day to fill a continent; and of its descendants, who will probably hereafter t outnumber the inhabitants of Europe." BURGOYNE'S EXPEDITION. I Gen. Burgoyne* was appointed Governor of Canada, |in 1777, to sucieed Sir Guy Carlton. He arrived at Quebec in May, and reached Crown Point June 20th. Gen. Phillips was sent to Ticonderoga with the British * General Burgoyne. — {From an Englt.^h Work.) — It is curious, that a man of such celebrity as ri writer, a senator, and an officer, as the late Lieut. John Burgoyne, should be found among the number of those of whose youthful days no memorial has been preserved. Neither the time, place, nor circumstances of his birth are known. Ev«n his pa- I rentage is doubtful. He is said, but upon what authority it does not appear, to have been a natural son of that Lord Bingly, who died at an ' advanced age in 1774. That he had the advantage of a liberal educa- I f ion, and early intercourse with polished society, is sufficiently evident from his writings; and it is probable that he was ear'y devoted to the j profession of arms, for on the 10th of May, 1759, he was raised to the ; rank of Lieut. Colonel, and in the August of the ensuing year, he was appointed Lieut. Col. Commandant of the 16th Light Dragoons. His after services at dilFerent periods, iu Spain, Portugal, and America, are all well known, especially the unfortunate termination of his military career at Saratoga, which, though it tarnished not his honour, cast a i shade over his brow, ever afterward conspicuous to the physiognomical 1 5ye. He made, on certain occasions, no ordinary figure in Parliament. He moved in the first circles, and married Lady Charlotte Stanley, a daughter of the Earl of Derby ; and yet we know not who and what he :)riginally was. He was the author of four successful dramas: the Maid of the Oak, the Lord of the Manor, Richard Cceur de Lion, and I 'he comedy of the Heiress; and yet the curiosity of hi.-; biographer, even Iin this anecdote-dealing and memoir-sil'ting age, cannot trace his origin or the scenes of his education. The tale^ of the Lord of the Manor leems, in some degree, to have been disguised in the modification of the character and circumstances by the incident of his own matrimonial Jj connexion : for his was a clandestine and unauthorized marriage, at a j '.ime when he held only a subaltern's commission in tho army ; and is ^jaid to have excited at first the resentment of the lady's father to such a degree, that he declared his resoiution never to admit the offenders into 1 his presence, though, in process of time, the anger of the Earl subsided, a reconciliation was effected, and was succeeded by a warm and lasting attachment. It is probable, also, that the memory of his ladv, who died M 2 134 KOUTE TO THE SPKINGS. light wing ; and the outposts and the fort were sue* cessively abandoned by the Americans. The news of the evacuation of this place was a most disheart- ening piece of intelligence to the country. It had been confidently hoped that an effectual resistance would there be offered to a force which threa ened the liberty of America ; or at all events, that an heroic stand would be made at that important post, which had so long been regarded as an almost impregnable fortress. During his delay, Gen. Schuyler obstructed the channel of Wood creek, remoxed every thing valuable from the country, and took the stores from Fort George to Fort Edward ; sending for regular troops, and calling for the militia of the neighbouring states, both which were supplied. Gen. Arnold and Col. Morgan joined liim with a body of riflemen, and Gen. Lincoln with the New-England militia ; and he fell back to Sara- toga and Stillwater. Battle of Bennington.* While these preparations were making for a general engagement, the battle ol Bennington occurred, which must now be introduced to preserve the order of time. Being in want of provisions, Gen. Burgoyne had de- in 1776, at Kensington Palace, during his absence in America, is em- balmed by the affectionate regrets of the General, in that beautiful air jn The first act of that opera : 'Encompassed in an ansel's frame, An angel's virtues lay : Too soon did heaven assert the claim. And call its own away. I\Iy Anna's worth, my Anna's charms, iVIust never more return! What now shall fill these widow'd arms 1 Ah, me ! my Anna's urn :" * In Bennington is an iron mine- %^ bich produces excellent ore. V&7 <;ood pis iron i= forced thpr;;> ! UATTLE OP SARATOGA. 133 sp^tched Lt. Col. Baum, with his Hessians, to seize the pubhc stores at Benning:ton. He was supported by Lt. Col. Brechman, who stopped at Baten Kill. Brig. Gen. Stark with the New -Hampshire troops, joined by iCoi. Warner, attacked Col. Baum at the VVallomsack river, where they were encamped, July 16th, (1777,) and in two h )urs, forced their works, and completely defeated them. Col. Warner began the attack on Col. Brechman, wounded him mortally, and took him pri- soner, and put his troops to flight. I Two hundred and twenty-six of the British troops \weTe killed at the battle of Bennington, or rather the 3attle of Hoosac, as it was fought in that town. Seven lundred soldiers were taken prisoners, and thirty-six officers. To return to the principal scene of action. Gen. jates now received the command of the American roops, which had been greatly reinforced ; and narching them from the east side of (he Hudson river, )pposite Half Moon, to Stillwater, on the west side, i ook a position on Bemis's Heights. BEMIS'S HEIGHTS, I A ridge of elevated ground, beginning on the left, ibout a quarter of a mile from the river, and stretching )ff towards the north-west, offered great advantages or the defence of the road. ' Gen. Gates\urpose, Morgan, at this critical moment, poured down ike a tonent from the hill, and attacked the right of the enemy in front and flank. Dearborn, at the mo- ment when the enemy's light infantry were attempt- ing to change front, pressed forward with are neiglu- ?30urhood. Sans Souci is a building- of great size, occupying the corner where the village street meets the road to Saratoga. It has a fine piazza opening upon the former, and presents a front of 156 feet long, with a wing extending back from each end 150 feet, ail of them three stories high, and containing in ail lodging for nearly 150 persons. The dining room can easily accommodate that number, and the public parlour is large, airy, and pleasant, extend- ing to the ladies' private parlour. Scarcely any thing in this country can exceed the scene of gayety which this house presents in the visit- ing season. VVhen crowded with people. Sans Souci is usually the scene of several balls in the week, to say nothing of the fishing parties, riding parties, &c. &c. which fill up the day. The variety of scenery in the neighbourhood is sufficient to attract many of those who resort to this place of health and pleasure ; and walking and riding will be found much more agreeable here than at Saratoga. Some of the parti- cular routes and objects will be designated hereafter. The Washington Spring. A new and remarkable chalj^beate Spring was ob- tained, in 1827, by boring 237 feet deep, through blue slate rock, near the Old Spring. It has a tube sunk the whole distance, made partly of iron and partly of tin, and affords a most delightful sparkling water, which boiis over the top. In August of that year, se- veral months after it was opened, the water was forced into the air to the height of 12 or 14 feet, without any perceptible cause, in a constant jet, for about half an hour. The water then disappeared, arrd was fifter: I ■P,ALLSTO^^ 147 I'.vard discovered slowly rising, till itagaiii overflowed, -t was for a time flat and turbid ; but soon recovered ill its clearness, gaseous pungency, and sparkling. This spring affords some of the tinest chalybeate water n the United States. I The Lafayette Spring, which yields a fine and sparkling chalybeate water, was discovered early in he summer of 1825. It is supposed by many to be ,n fact identical with the " Old Spring," which is soon be spoken of, being distant from it only about thirty eet. it is very cold and highly charged wiUi oxyde i3f iron and carbonic acid gas, which have given it a iaigh reputation. The Old Spri}ig, which is in the middle of tiie street opposite Aldridge's, was the tirst discovered jn dl this part of the country. It is said that the inhabit- ints were induced to trust to its peculiar virtues by ihe example of the deer of the forest, which had re- ported to it in such numbers as to form beaten paths from every direction to the spot. In 1792 there was not a house within two or three miles of this spot. The Old Spring has lost much of its original excel- lence, which appears to be in a good degree transferred to the new ones. T/ie Saline, or United States Spring, is a fine and most valuable one ; it is near the bathing house con- nected with the Sans Souci. It was discovered a few years since, and contains a large quantity of oxyde of iron, together with glauber and other salts, so that it is at once a strong saline, and chalybeate water. The iron is in such quantities as to be perceptible to the taste. Its effect IS tonic, and it favourably counteracts the debilitating effect of the salts. The New Spring is near the Sans Souci hotel. It Avas obtained in 1827 by boring to a depth of about 300 feet, and is full of gas, very sparkling and con- sidered both saline and chalybeate. The neighbouring countiy was almost a perfect wil- denwss at the clocjtB of the Hevoltitionarv wai^* for th^ :4{'. THE .-rEi>;Gs. natural military route between Canada and the United States lay through it, and the Five Nations of Indianl Avere so near on the western side, and were so fre* quently pas'^ing over it on their war parties, that fevui white men were wii'-ng- to encounter the dangers and risks to which such a residence must necessarily be exposed. ^ For some years, the only place where visiters could find shelter here, was in a log house, near the Old Spring, whi( h was for some time the only object of notice. The springs near t'.e Sans Souci were subse- quently discovered, and have enjoyed their portion of celebrity. In 1817 four springs of different qualities were found near the great manufactory built by Mr^ Low. Their history is worthy of attention, as it shows the singular ch-nges which sometimes take place in this my.sterious soil, where springs occasion- ally appear, change places, and disappear, without any apparent cau:-e. Some surprising power is constantly at work somewhere beneath the surface, which tlie wisest students of nature are unable to explain or to comprehend. The branch of the Kayderosseros brook which flows through the Spa Village, was raised to an unusual height by a flood in the summer of 1817, and threw its current into a new channel, further to- wards the east than its former one. The oM bed was thus left dry ; and four springs were found rising side by side, all of diem within a space of about twenty feet square, and all of qualities entirely different. One resembled in some degree the Old Spring, but contained a surplus of carbonic acid gas and sparkled like champaign ; the next contained much glauber salts, and was somewhat like the Congress Spring ai Saratoga ; the third was brine, like sea water ; and the fourth perfectly fresh. A platform was raised that covered them all, and wooden tubes were sunk into the two first, which were only two or three feci apart ; and for three or four seasons they attracted all visiters, so much so that the Old Spring was deserted^. iiALLSTOA. 14Jf iThe liist spring was peculiarly fine, and the favourite )f all ; but it at length began to lose its flavour, gas, md virtue ; and the tour springs now flow off together ^n a stream of almost pure water. The Old Spring* i.vas visited by Sir William Johnson before the Revo- :|utionary war, for his health. It was before known by •eports of the Indians. ^QUALITIES OF THE BALLSTON WATERS. Mew-Haven, April 27, 1824. Dear Sir, j You request my opinion of the mineral waters at i3allston Spa. They are in my view very valuable, ■ nd I can discern no serious reason why public opinion hould be less favourable to them now than formerly, became acquainted with the Old Spring, near Mr, jUdridge's, in consequence of using its waters unin- erruptedly at the fountain head, for a month, in the , Autumn of 1797 ; and a residence of the same length !)f time, at Ballston Spa, during the last summer, gave ine an opportunity of renewing my acquaintance with he Old Spring, and of becoming familiar also with hose more recently discovered fountains, which have )een opened and brought into use. The Old Spring 1 ppears, substantially, as it did in 1797, and is, I sup- I lose, surpassed by no mineral fountain in the world as . brisk, copious, slightly saline, and strong chalybeate. Che principal spring* under the bath house, while it « also a brisk chalybeate, is besides in a high degree aline, and is probably unrivalled as a natural combi- ■ation of this class. Its cathartic properties are strong, nd its tonic powers equally so. There is no spring, ither at Ballston Spa or Saratoga Springs, which 1 bould prefer to this. 1 speak of my own expe- *Mr. Silljman has analyzed tlie water of tliis spiiii!?, wliich is now ailed the United States, and found lialf a sialloii of it to contain 270 ;rains of salt; iron, lime, and mau'nosia, 100. It i^ al once hi<.'hlv saline !»(] rhnlylienro. whirji j^: verv reniarkrib!-'. loO THE 51'IUAG:;. rience — lov some persons, a bri-k cathartic' \vater. scarcely chalybeate at all, like the Congress Spring, may be preferable. The Congress Spring is also, st fir as I am informed, without a rival, in its class — but it is scarcely proper to call it a chnlybeate, as it is si only in a slight degree. There is no reason why th( establishments at Saratoga Spring* and at Dallston Spci should regard each ».ther with an unfriendly feeling. The accommodations of bo h are too good to need praise from me, and the bounty of the Creator ha: poured forth these fountains ot health, in the urea valley (for I regard the springs of Ballston Spa and Saratoga as parts of one great system) with a profust benevolence, unknown in any other country. Nothing can exceed the variety, copiousness, and excellence oi the sprin^rs at S;)ratoga — but those of Ba Islon Spi are in no respect, except that of number and variety inferior to them, and I trust the d.^y is not distant when a truly liberal feeling will, in both villages, leat; to mutual commendation, an^' an amicable rivalry, ii. efforts to please and to accommodate their guests and tht' salutary elTect will then, I am persuaded, sooi; be visible, in the increased number of visiters, froni every part of this great continent ; a number more than sufficient to till both villages, and fully to reward tlie spirited and liberal proprietors of their respective public establishments. With the best wishes for the prosperity of both places, I remain "Vour Obt. Servant, B. SILLIMAN. Looo's Manufactory is four stories high, about 170 feet long, and tbrty feet widf, with a large room ii each of the three upper stories about 115 leet long', It is not used. There is a Reading Room and Circulathig Library kept at the store of Mr. Comstock ; and a book is alsc to be seen, in which the names of visiters arriving GALWAl. Ibi .'he principal houses are daily enlcred, lor tiie inrorm" . tionof others. ' The Lovers Leap is a precipice of 60 or 70 {^ei, li'hich overhanijs ibe Kayderosseros, and overlooks a lom.iniic and secluded 11; lie valley, at tiie distance of ^'bout halt' a mile tVom (he springs. The road leads pthe hill beyond AlQ!id2:e's, and through a daik pine rove. A half-trodden path turns off at the right, and ijonducts to the piecipice, which is a pleasant letreat ^'n the heat o' the day, affording a fine shade and fre- j.;uently a pleasant breeze, as well as the view of a ijjv'ild scene below, to which a steep descent conducts jl n the left hand. J, Ballston Lake is a pretty little sheet of water about jj3ur miles distant; but as Saratoga Lake is much ,.arg:er, more accessible, and more beautiful, and is ' uppiied with accommodations for fishin'< parties, it is j.iore worthy of attention; we refer the stranger to ^He description of it on page 145. The distance is ,j3ur and a half miles, and five and a half from Sara- oga Springs. It is only six miles from Ballston Spa 3 the south end, where is the finest view of it, on the . vay to the battle ground. The road is rather stony nd rough, but perfectly safe, and has some pleasant pots, and several extensive views. The Green Moun- tains in Vermont piesent a very noble appearance ; and everal ridges of hills between, afterward succeeded )y the swelling and fertile shores of the. Hudson, form . various an' i delightful landscape. Mr. Simpso7ih Farm in Galway, is 11 miles west jrom Ballston Springs. I He- is an excellent fanner, and his house a very good ; an. Take the road up the sand hill by Aldridge's, massing near the Lover's Leap, and following the ohnstown ro^d. His house is on a high ridge of land; he larm contains 800 acres, 360 of which are culti- '■ated, principally for grain and grass. He raises 40 I )r 50 bushels of wheat to an acre b}^ late ploughing, Jibout three inches deep. He soaks his setjd wheat in brine, and rolls it in lime to preserve il Iroiii iiisecLv Otlier seeds he rolls in plaster. He has raised 70C^ bushels of^potatoes to an acre. His corn is planted two feet apart one way, and two and a half the other. His fences are of stone and wood — a low slone wall, with timber in it, to secure the parts above g'round. A fence of two rails is thus made above j the rails being of plank, about four inches wide. Of | this kind of fence, he has on his farm what would measure 15 miles. The place enjoys so fine and healthy a situation, and the inn is so well kept, being one of the best in this part of the country, that it is the resort of many vi- siters from different quarters, who frequently spend days or weeks there. The charges are more moderate than at the Springs. The view is commanding, and the air fine. From an eminence west of the house, no less than 13 coun- ties may be discovered. The church is half a mile distant, and the road from Ballston pretty good. REMARKS ON THE ROUTES. At the Springs many a traveller has to arrange his future journeys, either for business or pleasure ; and as Ballston and Saratoga are pre-eminently places of leisure, some general hints concerning the different routes will not be misplaced. North. The roads to Lake George, Lake Cham- plain, Montreal, &c., belonging more properly to Sara- toga, will be given under that head. East. The traveller is referred to the same place and Albany for the roads leading into New-England. South. Three or four steamboats leave Albany for New-York every day, and as many arrive from that city. Several also ply every week between New- York and other points. They touch at nuvnerous points on the river, so that passengers can land where thoy please. The newspapers ^vill furfij-sh all necec. SAKATOGA. 15'3 ' ^.aiy iiitoriiiation concernina^ their periods of departure and return ; and coaches from the Springs so regulate their time as to accommodate the traveller. I There are several roads to Albany: by Waterford, land Troy, or Gibbonsville, and by Schenectady. From Waterford you may take either side of the jfiver. On the west side are the Cohoes Falls, the remarkable "nine locks" on the Erie Canal, the junc- tion of the two canals, and route of the former quite to AHjany. On the east side the road passes over a j jridge to Lansingburgh, through Troy, and recrosses jiay a good and safe ferry. {See Index.) The second road, which goes through Schenectady, lis rather circuitous, but will give the stranger an op- portunity of travelling 27 miles on the Erie Canal, .ilong the course of the Mohawk. West^ The grand western route, through Utica, 'ind leading to Niagara and Lske Erie, has been al- jready traced out. The nearest point on this route is Schenectady, whence the traveller may proceed up the Mohawk, either by the stage road, or in the canal boats. The direct road to Schenectady, however, is sandy, aod quite uninteresting. SARATOGA SPRINGS are 7 miles from Ballston Springs, and a coach gene- rally passes between these two places every Jay ; besides a number of other carriages on their way from Albany, &c. What is called the regular price for these 7 miles is 50 cents for a seat. The ohi road ;s level and sandy, nnd if the weather be dry the tra- veller will probably be incommoded with dust, unless he rides in the morning or evening, when the 'ground is moist with the dew. The new road passes I over higher ground, and is pleasanter and harder, al- i though somewhat longer. You may pass out by the j court-house, east, or turn to the risht iust below the 154 THE SrKIlS'GS. Sans Souci. You enjoy some fine views oi the dis- tant hiils and mountains ; and the soil and crops are generally much better than on the old road. Saratoga is quite concealed until you are within a ; short distance, and then the clusters ot" frail board buildings which spring up among the stumps of trees lately felled in the skirts of the pine tbrest, show what an unnatural surplus of population the place contains durmg the visiting season, which is principally in July and August. It may not be unseasonable to mention here the princi{)al houses in the order in which they are supposed to stand on the list of gentility : the Con- gress Hall, $10 per week ; United States Hotel, do. ; the Pavilion, do. ; and Union Hall $8. On reaching the brow of a hill which descends into the village, the street lies in lull view, with all the principal houses. On the right is Congress Hall three stories high with a row of 17 columns, rising from the ground to the eaves ; opposite is Union Hail with a row of 10 similar columns ; over which are seen the brick walls of the United States Hotel ; and still be- yond, on the other side, the roof of the Pavilion. From this view the village is represented in the ac- companying print, which was taken on the spot. On reaching the foot of the hill, the Congress Spring, the great attraction of the place, is seen at a short dis- tance on the right, usually surrounded with a throng of people. Congress Hall has generally enjoyed the highest favour among the most fashionable visiters at Saratoga, on account of its fine and imposing appearance, its contiguity to the Spring, the number and size of its apartments, and the style in which it is furnished and kept. It is 196 feet long on the street, with two wings of 60 feet run- ning back, and contains lodging for 150. The first floor in front is divided in the following manner : a b'ARATOGA. 155 ""dining room in the middle, capable of containing- tables for all the house can accommodate; next the dancing hall, about 80 feet long, and south the ladies* {private parlour. The price of board is $10 per week. The United States Hall is a fine building of brick, three stories high, with a colonade rising only to the second story. This house is excellently well kept, and is more substantially built j than any of the rest, which are of a light construction, I fit only for the mildest weather ; but it is deficient in public rooms, in which particular Congress Hall so much excels. It is also raised so high from the street as not to be convenient of access, although some pre- fer it on that very account. The Pavilion. This is a veiy good house for one of its size, and will be found free from much of the bustle of the larger ones, while it is often the resort of much company in the visiting season. Those who wish to drink often of the Flat Rock water will prefer it, as that Spring is only a few steps from it in the rear There is a fine bathing house connected with it, »nd a shady little wood not far beyond by the road side, on the way to the Round Rock Spring. Union Hall is the resort of those who wish to have the most con- venient access to the waters of the Congress Spring, or to participate more moderately in the amusements of the place, and to avoid the inconveniences of gayety and mirth, produced by the continued round oT balls and dances in the other principal houses. 50 THE SPEIKGS. The Congress Spring; which, as was belore remarked, is the great source from which this place derives its celebrity and its show of wealth and importance, was discovered by Mr. Putnam. He built the first house near it for the accommodation of invalids, Avhich was subsequently enlarged to the present Union Hall, now kept by his son. The Congress Spring was long concealed by the, neighbouring brook which formerly passed over it ; but its valuable qualities being discovered, it has at- tracted universal attention, and the benefits of its wa-. ters are .innually dispensed to thousands. Mr. Silliman gives the following analysis : half a gallon contains 320 grains of salt, 26 lime and mag- nesia, with a slight trace of iron. The Flat Rock Spring is near the upper end of the street, and in the rear of the Pavilion. In composition and qualities it bears a resemblance to the Washington Spring at Ballston, hut is far inferior. It is a chalybeate water, and the best of the kind in the place. It is situated on the margin of the little valley in which all the springs are found, and the Pavilion will prove a pleasant house to inva- lids and others who wish to drink of it frequentl}'. The Round Rock Spring. This Spring is worthy of a visit merely as a natural curiosit}- : the water, although for a time much cele- brated, and indeed the only attraction of which Sara- toga could boast, having gone into disrepute, since the discovery oi" the souices already mentioned. It is a feeble chalybeate with little taste and little effect. The water rises in a small rock of calcareous tufa, of a conical form, with a circular hole in the middle, about five inches in diameter. The rock is a}}oiit five saratihtA. 157 feet throug^h al the base, and has evidently been pro- duced by the layers of lime deposited by the water. Many of the rocks in the neighbourhood contain a large quantity of lime, where the carbonic acid of the water probably obtains the supply which it afterward 'deposites here. The gradual accretion which is thus constantly going on is very apparent even to a hast)'' lobserver. That part of the rock which is most ex- iposed to the dripping of water taken out in cups through the hole in the top, is always smooth and even, ivhiie other parts are rough and broken. Fractures liBade by visiters are sometimes found half obliterated jjy a recent coat of calcareous matter formed in this nnanner. A horizontal rock, apparently of similar "ormation, extends for a considerable distance under ;he surface of the ground; and indeed it might be supposed to reach to some of the springs which rise !'n different places along the valley above. I The water, according to common report, formerly ! lowed over the top, but has for many years found its tyay below, through a crevice produced by a large 'brest tree which fell and cracked the rock. Saratoga Lake. An excursion to this beautitul piece of water, is one iif the most agreeable that can be made in any di- rection. It is bh miles distant, in a south-easterly di- I'ection, and is frequently visited by parties from Balls- l.on, as well as Saratoga Springs, as a good house has I )een lately erected on the shore, and furnished with livery accommodation, by Mr. Riley. Sailing and j]shingon the lake form the amusements of the ex- cursion. The first part of the way is by the eastern road to jSallston Spa ; and after turning to the left and riding ;o within half a mile of the lake, a fine view opens j rom the top of a hill. The eye embraces a part of hi= fine sheet of water, with its sloping and verdant n « I5g THI5 SPRINGS. shores, ^cenerally divided by square fields; with a distant view of the Green Mountains. At a considerable distance from the shore, is erected a stage, 16 by 14 feet, a little raised above the water, and capable of containing- thirty people. The lake is there about seven feet deep, and the spot is excel- lent for fishiniT- Parties of ladies and gentlemen are taken off in boat'^, and in hot weather an awning is spread to shade them from the sun. On the opposite side of the lake is a remarkable rocky and woody hill, of a rounded form, which is connected with the shore only by a narrow neck. T'he deepest water is two miles below, at Drowned Meadow Cove, where it is 150 or 170 feet to the bot- tom. The road running north from Riley's is plea- sant, but reaches only half a mile. The lake extends seven miles in length, and is two in breadth. The shores are bold and varied, gently descending Avith a smooth slope to the margin, or rising in rugged crags from the water's edge ; some- times softened and beautified by the hand of cultiva- tion, and sometimes abandoned to all their native wildness. If the wind and weather are favourable, the visiter may expect good sport in fishing ; and if not, he may ca'culate on a dinner table well supplied by other and more fortunate adventurers. There are also many kinds of wild fowl, birds, &,c. in the neighbourhood, so that a sportsman may find great amusement here. There is a house at the north end of the lake, 4 miles from Saratoga Springs, kept by Mr. Green, near the ferry, v here also visiters are accommodated. Trout Fishing. Two rtiles eastward from the Sfjririgs, is a Trout Pond, to which sportsmen fre- quently !esort. The Reading Room. Strangers will find newspa- pers from different parts of the countr}^, and will be able to supply themselves with books of different de- scriptions, to beguile their leisure hours. The Read- *AEATOGA. 15r* ling- Room is at the Book Store of Mr. Davison, a little beyond the United States Hotel. A Record will also be found at the same place, into which the arrivals and departuies of visiters are copied, iDDce a day, from the books of the four principal lliouses. If any one expects to meet a friend here, iT wishes to learn whether he has already left Sara- jtoga, he has only to refer to this list and look for bis Iname. SCHUYLERSVILLE, 12 m. from Saratoga, I -even miles from the battle-ground. A stage coach leaves Saratoga Springs three mornings in the week, ivhich passes through this place. At this village is I. he place where Gen. Burgoyne was forced to stop on I lis retreat, on account of the flood in Fish Creek, the |)utlet of Saratoga Lake ; and at Fort Hardy, which I hen stood on its banks, he surrendered to Gen. Gates \m the 17th October. The traces of his camp are still very discernible, in embankments, ditches, &c. and I he house in which he had his head-quarters stood till vvithin a few years. The British Camp, |)nemile from the Fishkill, and opposite the Batenkiil lOreek. From the hill where the British encampment Ivvas formed, a fine and extensive view may be had, jjpon the route towards Bemis's Heights. General Burgoyne occupied the night of October 8th, and the ^ bllowing day, in getting to this place, although it is but 7 miles, on account of the miserable state of the *oads. Here he was detained for several days by the jewelling of the waters of the creek; and when he I [grossed the stream, he left his hospital with 300 sick nnd wounded, who were treated by Gen. Gates with 1 every atlenlion. ! Hevp the further retreat was cut off: for the Ameri ■ 3tJ0 THE SPItlKGS. cans were found in possession of the fords of the Hud- son. Gen. Burgoyne therefore took his last position ; and Gen. Gates formed his camp behind, while Mor- gan took post on the west and north of the British, and Gen. Fellows, with 3000 men, was stationed on the opposite side of the river. American troops were also in Fort Edward, and on the high ground towards Lake George. While remaining in this situation, the British were continually exposed to the fire of their enemies, as well as reduced by want of provision. Six days passed thus; when on the 17th of Octolier, 1777, a conven- tion was signed, and the army, being marched to the meadow near Old Fort Hardy, piled their arms and surrendered prisoners of war, to the number of 5752 effective, with 528 sick and wounded. This meadow is in sight from the inn. The House of Gen. Schuyler stood on the spot now occupied by that of his grandson. It was burnt by Burgoyne on his retreat, together with his mills ; not- withstanding which, the British officers were after- ward received at his house in Albany, and treated with great kindness. Remarks on the Routes. AoW/i. — Three great routes from the Springs to- wards the north may be particularized, although they run almost side by side, and all unite on arriving at Lake Champlain. 1st, The fashionable route, to Caldwell, on Lake George. 2d, The Northern, or Champlain Canal. 3d, The road to Whitehall, the direct route on the way to Montreal.* The j^rs^ of these is usually travelled by strangers of taste and leisure, as it conducts directly to the fine scenery of Lake George, and the battle-grounds in its *Thore also are two stajre routes to Montreal, one on each side of J-akp Chnnnilain. Thf mail now cop? to ATontrf?.)1 daih'. SAllATOCA. Ibl jvicinity; and passes near several other spots of high .'interest for their historical associations. It is with a particular view to this route, that the places soon to be mentioned will be arrano^ed and described. Even lif a journey to Montreal is intended, it can hardly be |too urgently pressed upon the stranger to devote a leisure day or two to Lake George on his way, as he will jfind himself most amply rewarded, and can join the great route with facility at Ticonderoga. The second route, by the Northern Canal, may be met near the battle-ground at Bemis's Heights ; but it has hitherto offered in this part no boat expressly for passengers. In fine weather, however, gentlemen may travel very pleasantly for a few miles in the common freight boats. The third route is the road to Whitehall, which is 1 furnished with public carriages from the Springs I during the warm season, and, like the canal, passes 1 near some of the interesting places to be mentioned j hereafter. From Whitehall the traveller may proceed down Lake Champlain in the daily steamboats, or by land in the mail coach. East. — Travellers wishing to go to any part of the country in this direction, may take their choice of several routes. Lines of stage coaches run to Con- necticut river from Burlington, Middlebury, Castleton, and Granville, as well as from Troy and Albany, in various directions — to Hanover, Brattleborough, Green- field, Northampton, Springfield, Hartford ; and there subdividing into numerous ramifications, offer the means of conveyance to every part of New-England. To meet most of these routes, it will be necessary to proceed to some point north or south of the Springs, for which public carriages are established in several directions from Saratoga and Ballston, concerning which, arrangements may be made at the bar of the ) house where the stranger is lodged. I It is also important to mention, that two lines of cnache? run alons: the ronr=p'= of Hudson River and 162 EXCUESION TO LA&E GBOEGE. Wood Creek, one on each side ; and that the eastern one carries the mail through Castleton, Middlebury, Burlington, &c. along the course of Lake Champlain, though generally at too great a distance to command a view of it. The country there is very fine, the vil- lages beautiful, and the surface frequently mountainous. This road meets several of the eastern roads ; but the traveller will probably prefer to take one of the four steamboats, as he can land at the most important points. The most interesting route that can be chosen by a man of taste, from the Springs to Boston, is through Vermont to the White Mountains, and Winnipiseogee Lake in New-Hampshire. He may take what road he pleases to Connecticut River. For the roads leading sowi/i and west from the Springs he is referred directly to Ballston, where those routes are particularly mentioned and described. If he has never visited the Battle Ground at Demises Heights, or, as it is usually called, o( Saratoga, it may be recommended to him to take that interesting place in his way, and to refer to page 135 for the descrip- tion of if, EXCURSION TO LAKE GEORGE, 27 miles. This is by far the most delightful, as well as fashion- able excursion which can be made from the Springs in any direction, as it abounds with some of the finest scenery in the United States, and in numerous sites and objects intimately connected with the history of the country. A stage coach leaves Saratoga Springs every morn- ing for Caldwell, at the south end of the lake, passing through Glenn's Falls. From the time of the earliest wars between the British colonies and the French in Canada, to that of T755, the tract over which part of our route lies was tho hig;h road of war. It was traversed bv manv a GLENN'S FALLS. IGo lostile expedition, in which the splendour and power f European arms mingled with the fierce tactics of avage warriors : the ruins of fortresses are still to be raced in several places, and tradition points to many spot that has been sprinkled with blood. During he Revolution, also, some of the important events in ur history, took place in this neighbourhood. The i lattle of Saratoga, and the defeat of General Burgoyne I lave been already dwelt upon; but we shall have to I efer more than once to his expedition as we pass ther scenes with which the events of it are connected. 1 The Journey to Montreal may be made by the way IfLake George; and this route the book will pursue, 3 Montreal and Q,uebec, whither the reader, it is foped, will accompany it. IThe road from Saratoga to Glenn's Falls? i 18 miles. ^ Wilton, 7 m. — Here take the left-hand road, where j small house stands at the angle. This will prove I he better route, and meets the other branch twice, at jour and six miles distance. Thirteen miles beyond, he road branches off eastward for Sandy Hill. , Half a mile before reaching the villaa:e, the road jmters a rich plain, probably once overflown by the fiver, vvhich is now discovered on the left, dividing it In its course, while the village appears in iront, with I. handsome church spire, and a number of neat white iiouses, all backed by the mountains, which here , tretch off towards the north. I French Mountain is the most prominent eminence, )f which more anon. A more distant range is like- i'ise seen further to the right. Glenn's Falls. — If the traveller is going on immedi- ately to the lake, he should stop a few moments on 'he bridge, to see the falls in the Hudson, which are n full view below. The river here makes a sudden iescent of 37 feet, over a rock of dark blue limestone. lo4 EXCURSIOxV TO lAKE GEultGj;. ivhicli has been worn into so many forms as to break up the current in a very singular manner. The pro- jection of two Iar!?e masses of rock divides the water into three sheets (except when it is m^jch swollen by. jloods). Of these, the northern one is much the larg- est, and the other two unite and pass througii a deep channel, about 15 feet wide. A man jumped off the bridge here, twice, a few years ago, yet escaped Avithout serious injury. The most water passes through the other channel.* A d?.m is thrown across just above the falls, which supplies a Cotton Manufactory of Stone with water, as well as several mills. On the north side of the river is a canal, which is intended for a feeder to the Champlain canal, and passes along the elevated bank. It now furnishes water for several mills, and an artificial cascade. The great flat rock which supports the bridge, pro- jects beyond it, and affords space for a small garden on its highest part, although the greater part of it is over- flown in high Hoods. Like the other rocky strata there, it has a gentle dip towards the south, and a per- pendicular fracture running nearly north and south. Caverns. — Passing through the garden, and turning to the left, the mouths of two caverns are found facing the north, in diilerent places among the rocks. They have been cut through by the rushing of water, in a direction across the liver's course, and corresponding with the natural fracture. The first is just large enough to permit the passa^-e of a man, and is cut with sur- prising regularity for a distance of about 25 feet. This place is made the scene of some of the most in- * Sandy Ifdl, 3 milc.i eastward. — This viilas^e is pk>as^:it!y situated at the next fall in tlie river below. The cascade is less rciiia- kable as an object of (Miriosiiy and interest, Imt it is still worthy of attention if the stranger have sufficient time at his disposal. lie wiil find a pleasjint road onward ; and if he should be o)i hi.s reinru from Lake George, and wishes to visit tliis part of the river, the Fiild of Sun-enderj or the Bat- tle Ground., before reaching Saratoija or Ballston, he will fird it con- venient to follow the course of the river. The village has a good inn . For 3 de?cripiion of the principal scenes of this route; see TikU-p- < fUENOH MOUlNTxVixV- 16. J i iresting chapters of Mr. Cooper's novel of The Last of .'le Mohicans. The cavern (perhaps altered since I 737) was the place where the wanderers secreted I lemselves, and were made captives. The cavern ', inducts to one of the river's channels, where it opens Ln the side of a precipice, directly over the water. ii;j"'he banks of the river are perpendicular rocks as far i '3 can be seen ; and nearly opposite the caverns, i nder the north bank, is an abundant spring of fine, pure water, which pours from a hole in the rock, a ijiw feet from the surface of the river. ji About half-way between this place and Sandy Hill. f convoy of wagons was attacked in the French war, n their way to Lake George. Nearly north of Glenn's Falls, is Luzerne Mountain ; nd a little to the right of it, French Mountain. Be- tween them passes the road to Lake George. Towards 'be west, j; range of high hills encloses the view, and !q the easu the Vermont Mountains make a fine ap- pearance. Ncnr the ioot o( French Mountain is a small tavern, n the east side of the road ; and near this place Gen. )ieskau's advanced guard struck the route from Glenn's 'alls aiid Fort Edward to Fort William Henry. The 'alky through which we pass is narrow for some dis- :iice beyond ; and after about half an hour's ride (for inere are no mile stones), a little circular pond is dis- l.overed on the east side, and close by the road. It is Generally almost concealed with water plants. This was near the place of action betv;een Colonel iVilliaras and General Dieskau. The latter had ex- ended his troops across the path, and advanced his vings some distance in front, the left wing occupying he rising ground on the west side of the road near his place. A small cleared spot may be noticed on he other side, a little beyond the pond (in 1825 a hut tood upon it), that is said to have been the principal cene of action ; and a singular rock near by is pointed >n% hv tradition as the mark of Col. Williams's grave. P IdfcJ EXCURSION TO LAKE GEORGE. This, however, is considered very doubtful ; by others, it is said that he ascended the rock to reconnoitre, and was shot from its summit. [Page 170.) The little pond above mentioned was the place where most of the dead were thrown, and it bears the name of Bloody Pond to this day. It is probably much smaller than formerly. In 1825 the skeleton of a man was dug; up from a depth of one and a half teet, near the pond, with a marble pipe, and some silver- eyed buttons bearing the royal stamp. This pond is nearly circular, and is covered, in its season, with the Pond Lily (Nymphea Alba), which expands its flowers on the surface of the water. About a quarter of a mile beyond this place, is a fine view of LAKE GEORGE. i Coming to the brow of a high hill, the prospect ' opens, and the lake appears, enclosed by mountains, many of which, at this distance, are of a deep blue. The side of French Mountain is near at hand on the east, covered with thick trees to the summit ; while the smoothness of the lake, the beauty of its nearest shore, with the neat white buildings of Caldwell, com- municate to the scene a degree of beauty and seclu- sion, which can hardly be found in any other spot. Directly at the south end of Lake George, are the remains of Forts George and William Henry, famous in the history of the French war ; and on the site of the former was General Johnson's camp, when he was attacked by Dieskau. The particulars of the action will be given hereafter. Caldwell. The village of Caldwell is the place at which the visiter will stop to take a view of this charming lake, 3Dd from which be will make his excursions across it^ I LAKE GEOKGE. 167 beautiful waters. The villag:e stands at the south end af the lake, and on its shore, commanding a fine view of the neighbouring sheet of water and the mountains |by which it is almost enclosed. The inn to which [strangers resort, occupies a spot peculiarly fitted to gratify the eye of taste, as it overlooks the lake for jseveral miles, and the view is not interrupted by any 'neighbouring obstacle. A more delightful place can hardly be found in the United States, for the tempo- rary residence of one who takes delight in scenery of [this description, and loves to recur to deeds long past, 'and to exploits great in themselves and important in their results even to the present day. Lake George is 34 miles long, and its greatest breadth 4. At the south end it is only about one mile broad. The greatest depth is sixty fathoms. The water is remarkable for its purity — a fish or a stone 'may be seen at the depth of 20 or 30 feet. It is un- Idoubtedly supplied by springs from below, as the water is coldest near the bottom. It contains trout, bass, and perch. There are deer in the neighbouring forest. The outlet which leads to Lake Champlain contains three large falls and rapids. The lake never j rises more than two feet. I The three best points of view are at Fort George, la place north of Shelving Rock, 14 miles, and another I at Sabbath Day Poini, 21 miles from the head of the 'lake. The last view is taken southward, the other i two northward. I This beautiful basin, with its pure crystal water, I is bounded by two ranges of mountains, which, in some places rising with a bold and hasty ascent from the water, and in others descending with a graceful sweep from a great height to a broad and level mar- j gin, furnish it with a charming variety of scenery, which every change of weather, as well as every . change of position, presents in new and countless beauties. The intermixture of cultivation with the wild scenes of nature is extremely asrreeable ; and 168 EXCURSION TO LAKE GEORGE. the undulating: surface of the well-tilled farm is often contrasted with the deep shade of the native forest, and the naked, weather-beaten cliffs, where no vege- tation can dwell. The situation of the hotel is delightful, surpassing that of almost every other to be found in this part of the cou^t^}^ The traveller may hereafter take plea- sure in comparing the scene enjoyed from his window, with those he may witness from the walls of Quebec, Masonic Mall at Montreal, and Forsyth's at Niagara. The house is very large, having been increased within a year or two by the addition of a long wing, three stories high, so that it is now capable of furnishing lodgings for one hundred persons, and the apartments are so arranged, that half of them look out upon the lake. A green and handsome slope descends about 200 yards to the very margin, where there is no obstruction but a few trees and scattering buildings. There is the wharf, at which the steamboat receives and lands her passengers, often adding much variety to tlwj place by an addition of company. The dis- charge of the signal gun makes fine echoes among the mountains in a clear niaht. The lake is here about three-quarters of a mile wide, and the range of mountains opposite, which are high and uninterrupted, are quite uncultivated, with the exception of a few farms near the shore ; the other parts being covered with trees almost to the water. On the right is seen the south end of the lake, which is formed of low land for some distance back, suc- ceeded by French Mountain in the rear. On a little point, half covered with trees, and rising only about 25 feet above the water, is the site of Fort William Henry ; and about a mile towards the south-east from it, on a considerable elevation, are the ruins of Fort George. For the history of these once important little ;ortre««:es. see paure 170. ^ LAKE oeOllGE. 169 Excursions on the Lake, Fishing, &c. Boats are kept at the wharf to convey passengers 4o any part of the neighbouriiis: shores and islands. [Fine perch, or black bass, {Perca Franklinia), are •caught in abundance almost every where ; and trout, at the mouth of a small stream near the south end. Fishing rods and tackle may be obtained at the hotel ; .and a variety of other fish are to be found. j Diamond Island is a few miles down the lake, and ns famous for abounding in crystals of quartz, which are 'found in a loose rock by digging a little under the sur- ^face. They are found, however, in equal numbers in j several of the other islands ; and it is, after all, the , easier way to purchase them, and not to permit the labour of searching for them to interfere with the plea- sure of the excursion, particularly as that labour is often ineffectual. A poor family lived on Diamond ; Island, subsisting partly on a small spot of tilled land, and partly on the produce of the crystals sold to visiters. Tea Island, about 2 miles down the lake, is another favourite retreat. The little bay in which the boats land is remarkably retired and beautiful, and there is an old hut standing which affords something of a shelter. Long Island contains about 100 acres, and has been inhabited and cultivated. Besides these, there are many other islands on the neighbouring parts of the lake ; and those who are fond of such excursions would be highly delighted with devoting several days to visit them. The finest cluster is in the Narrows, about 12 miles distant. These will be spoken of hereafter. One steamboat usually goes three times a week to the north end of the lake ; but is alwavs ready to per- P 1 170 EXCURSION TO LAKE GEOTfGE. form that excursion, and will take a party of twenty or niore for $1 each. West of the village is a remarkable conical eminence, called Rattlesnakes'' Cobble, or Prospect Hill. This, as well as the mountains beyond it, is the habitation of bears and deer, and much infested with rattlesnakes. The view from the top is very fine. It is the place from which Hawk-eye, in the " Last of the Mohicans," leads his companions into Fort William Henry through the mist. The French .Approaches. The village of Caldwell is of recent date. In the French war, during the siege of Fort William Henry, the ground which it now occu- pies was crossed by the trenches and batteries with which Montcalm finally succeeded in forcing the capi- tulation of that little fortress. The place where he landed with his army is the little cove just behind the new stone building, a few steps north of the hotel. He erected his battery near the shore, and ran his first trench across the street into the fields in front of the hotel. The remains may still be traced, as well as the marks of a small mortar bat- tery, near the bars of a fence leading to a small house. Another line runs to the bank of the lake, on this side of the brook, where was also a battery ; and another borders the swamp to the right, and another turns southward along the high ground. Behind this, in a pine wood, are the craves of about 1000 French sol- diers, who died in the fort. Battle of Lake George. In 1755, the year after the commencement of the French War, 3000 men were sent out from France to Quebec, for the purpose of taking Oswego Fort. This was situated at the mouth of the Osuego or Onon- dago River, and on the shore of Lake Ontario. The position derived its consequence from circumstances which no longer evist : the Indian trade from up the JiATTLE OP LAKE GEOKGE. Hi 'Lakes, the facility of communication with the Five Nations throug:h that place, and the peculiar nature of the shores of Lake Ontario, which would not permit ■navigation (by canoes) on the other side. There the (two great branches of Indian trade concentrated ; and the nation which held possession of the point neces- sarily swayed a great influence over the Indians them- selves : an advantage frequently of still greater impor- tance to the country. Oswego Fort naturally became an object both to the French and the English at that time, and it formed a prominent figure in the history j of the war. The English being in possession of that 'little fortress at the commencement of hostilities, its defence might doubtless have been easily secured, had their operations been conducted with common prudence and energy. Unfortunately, they were con- ducted in a very different manner ; and whoever would see a clear and able history of the first English expe- 'ditions in that war, and of the political party spirit twhich then ruled in this country and rendered them i worse than ineffectual, is referred to"./3 Letter to a Lordf'^ written soon after. In 1755, Gen. Johnson, (afterward Sir William,) marched to the south end of Lake George with a con- jsiderable number of men, joined by the famous Capt. iHendrick, with many Indians of the Five Nations, in- tending to take Fort Frederick, now Crown Point. iGen. Dieskau was sent to oppose him, with 3000 men, principally taken from a body of French troops sent out to Q,uebec, 600 of whom had fallen into the hands of Admiral Boscawen at sea. Dieskau had first de- I signed to besiege Fort Oswego. At Fort Frederick, or Crown Point, he remained some time, and then de- termined to go and meet the English. He therefore went up the South Bay. where, learning the situation of Fort Lyman (now Fort Edward,) he wished to attack it and cut off the retreat of Gen. Johnson. The I Indians and Canadians, however, were in dread of the 172 EXCLUSION TO LAKE GEOKOE. cannon with which it was supposed to be defended, and he was obliged to march against Johnson. Sunday, Sept. 7th, at midnight, a scout brought Johnson intelligence that Dieskau was coming. 1200 men were sent out in the morning, under the command of Col. Ephraim Williams, who met them at Rocky Brook, drawn up in a semicircle, into which the English entered before they knew it. A heavy fire from three sides first showed them the position of their enemies. The English stood their ground valiantly ; but Col. Williams and Hendrick being both shot down, together with many others, they were obliged to be- gin their retreat, which was conducted by Col. Whi- ting with the greatest coolness and success. The centre of the English army was posted on the bill where the ruins of Fort George now are ; and the French were discovered by them at half past 11. Dieskau halted at the sight of his enemies, probably entertaining some mistaken idea of the strength of their position, and gave them time to recover from their panic. The ground on both sides of the English camp was marshy and covered with trees, and Dies- kau sent his Indians out on the right flank and the Canadians on the left, to surround them. Col. Pome- roy, however, soon put the former to flight with a few cannon shots. Dieskau then brought up his troops in front, and made them fire by platoons, but with very little effect. Gen. Johnson (happily for his own troops) was slightly wounded in the thigh, and had to walk back to his tent, leaving the command with Gen. Lyman. He directed the defence for five hours, aided by Capt. Eyre's artillery ; when the French turned upon the English right, which consisted of Kuggles's, Po;iieroy's, and Tittecomb's reirimenis, and extended from the road to where Fort William Henry was after- ward built. Here they fought an hour, but the English and Indians charging them, they took to flight and manv were killed. Gen. Dieskau himself I 3rASSACaE AT FOET WILLIA3I HENRY. 1 73 >vas found leaning against a stump wounded — a sol- dier approaching saw him put his hand to his waist, to take out his watch, which he intended to oflfer to him, and supposing he was dravving a pistol, shot him through the thigh. He was carried to the fort by eight men in a blanket, and it is said deterred Johnson from ordering a pursuit, by saying he had a strong force near at hand. Gf n. Lyman ui^ed to fol- low up their victory ; but that was probably a suffi- cient reason for its being refused by a superior officer, who looked upon his great talents with jealousy, and, I in spite of the advantage the country had derived from his services, at a time when they were pecu- liarly valuable, did not even mention the name of Gen, Lyman in his account of the battle ! — Johnson was made a Baronet, and Lyman lingered out a few years in poverty and disappointment, and died without re- ceiving even the notice of the British government. ' The English are said to have lost only 216 in killed I and 96 wounded. Gen. Dieskau estimated his own I loss at 1000— the English called it much less. The j principal uere a major-general, and M. de St. Pierre, jthe commander of the Indians. The French lost their I baggage during the action, left two miles in their rear, lit being attacked Sy Captains Folsom and M'Ginnies I with about 100 New-York troops ; who then lay in I wait for the retreating French, and killed great num- bers of them. ! Gen. Johnson might have taken Crown Point ; but he delayed it so long, that the French advanced to p Ticonderoga and there fortified themselves securely. The Capture and Massacre op Fort William Henry. So dififerent was the state of the country sixty years ago, and so much in its infancy was the art of war in these wild regions, thaf a small work of earth thrown up on this site, and called Fort William Henry, was 174 KxcLHtHina TO lake tiEoiiGi;. regarded as a fortress of considerable strength and con- sequence. In 1757, the Earl of Loudon, British Commander-in- Chief in America, made an unsuccessful attempt by sea against Louisburg ; and before his return to New- York in August, the French from Ticonderoga, under the Marquis de Montcalm, had made three attacks on Fort William Henry. On the 1st of August they set out again, and landed at Frenchman's Point. On the evening of the 2d, they crossed to the west side of Lake George, within two miles of the Fort, and the next morning sent in their summons. Col. Monroe defended himself resolutely for six days, hoping relief from Gen. Webb and his 6000 men at Fort Edward ; but having waited in vain, and burst ten of his largest cannon, he was obliged to surrender, and marched out with the honours of war and an assurance of bemg protected from the Indians in Montcalm's army. He had gone but a little way, however, when the savages fell upon hi- troops and butchered about 1500, men, women, and children. Gen. Webb's conduct was most inhuman. The pro- vincial troops were kept under arms for one whole day alter the news of the siege arrived at Fort Ed- ward, and Sir William Johnson was very desirous to march with them to its relief; but Webb ordered them back to their quarters, and sent a messenger to CoL Monroe advising him to surrender. Attac:k on Fort Ticonderoga. The south end of Lake George was the scene of a splendid embarkation on the 4th of July of the tbllow- ing year [l758], when 10,000 provincial troops, and 6 or 7000 regulars assembled at this place to proceed against Ticonderoga.* 1035 boats were drawn up to * Lord Kowe, wJio accompanied ll)is expedition, u as a young noble- nian of annable disposition and the most prrpcipsessing manners, and was almost idolized by the army, as well as admired and loved by the '•^■•■mtrv AlTACK Oi\ TICONDEKOGA. 1 T5 ihe shore one clear delightful summer morning, and were speedily filled with this powerful army, except- ing only a small body left with the baggage. Success was confidently expected, and the appearance of the 1 train was more like that of a triumphant return from war. The boats were decorated with gaudj^ streamers, ' and the oars moved to martial music. The traveller will follow their route in the steamboat, for which see below. ' They landed at the north end of the lake on the fol- lowing morning, and were ordered to march on in four ] columns. The obstructions of the forest however soon broke their ranks ; when Lord Howe, with his centre column, falling in with the enemy's advance guard, •who were on their retreat and bewildered, was at- ' tacked with a sudden war whoop and immediately killed. The provincials were accustomed to the woods, and drove back their enemies, killing about j300, and taking 148 prisoners, and all returned to the Handing. In the morning. Col. Bradstreet took pos- |;ession of the mill at the great falls on the river, and j'.he army were soon brought up to the French lines, jivhich were thrown up across the isthmus and not ! inished. This intrenchment is still to be seen in tole- ' able preservation. It had two redoubts and a deep |ibatlis, and is said to have been 8 or 9 feet high, j hough that seems improbable. The attack was jngorous, and the defence obstinate. The battle con- j inued four hours, during which the English were re- Julsed three times. The Highland regiment distin- guished itself, and suffered severely. The English OSS, in all, was 1944, principally regulars ; the French ery trifling, although they are said not to have ima- ;ined the defence possible. Their force is differently tated from 1200 to 6000. Notwithstanding his supe- iority of force, Abercrombie shamefully ordered a fetreat ; and thus terminated the operations of the ^ear. 176 EXCURSION TO LAKE GJbiORGi: Voyage down Lake George. r" Leaving Caldwell, and passing Mr. Caldwell's house at a quarter of a mile, the steamboat passes Tea Island, Diamond, Long, and other islands, particularly the Two Sisters ; and then the lake becomes wider, and the surface more uninterrupted, the course of the boat being directly towards a remarkable eminence, with a double summit, called Tongue Mountain. That which partly shuts it in from this direction on the right, is Shelving Rock ; and Black Mountain shows \is rounded summit beyond it, a little to the right. This last is supposed to be about 2200 feet high, and is considered the highest mountain on the lake. Twelve Mile Island appears to be at the foot of Tongue Mountain, and is seen just ahead for a great distance after leaving Caldwell. It is of a singularly rounded form, covered with trees, with the utmost re- gularity, and protected from the washing of the waves by a range of large stones along the shore, so well dis- posed as to seem like a work of art. A rich and cultivated slope is seen on the western shore, before reaching Tongue Mountain, which be- longs to a new township. The Narrows. The lake is very much contracted where it passes between the mountains just mentioned, and their sur- face is for several miles broken by innumerable islands. These are of various sizes, but generally very small, and of little elevation. A few of them are named, as Green, Bass, Lone-tree islands. Some of them are covered with trees, others with shrubs, some show little lawns or spots of grass, heaps of barren rocks, or \ gently sloping shores; and most of them are orna- mented with graceful pines, hemlocks, and other tall tree;*, collected in groups, or standing alone, and dk- .>L>sea Willi Liioat charming variety. Sometimes an : island will be observed just large enough to support a few fine trees, or perhaps a single one, while the •next may appear like a solid mass of bushes and wild 'Sowers ; near at hand, perhaps, is a third, with a dark ^rove of pines, and a decaying old trunk in front of it : and thus, through every interval between the islands as you pass along, another and another labyrinth is Dpened to view, among little isolated spots oi ground, iivided by narrow channels, from which it seems im- possible for a person who should have entered them, ijver to find his way out. Some of the islands look ilmost like ships with their masts ; and many have an lir of lightness as if they were sailing upon the lake. After passing the Narrows, the lake widens again, ind the retrospect is, for several miles, through that )assage, with Tongue Mountain on the west, and Jlack Mountain opposite, the Luzerne range appearing t a great distance between them. The motmtains in 'iew have generally rounded summits ; but the sides ire in many places broken by precipitous ledges, iThey are inhabited by wolves, deer, rattlesnakes, &c. Sabbath Day Point. — This is a low neck of land,, itretching into the lake from the Western shore, and iontaining the little village of Hague. That on the pposite shore is Putnam. I On Sabbath Day Point, Lord Amherst, with his lumerous host, stepped for refreshment upon the jioming of the Sabbath, and gave this beautiful point be name by which it is now known : it is a charming" pot, and susceptible of the greatest embellishment. Rogers' Rock and Anthony's Nose. These are two mountains at which the lake again /ontracts itself to pass between them. The shores of jie lake still continue elevated, and but a few culti- 'ated farms are distinguishable here and there. An- ionv'.'^ Nose presents a orecipice.on the eastern ?hore. 178 EXCUfiSIOSi TO LAKE GliOEGi:, as we enter the strait ; and the firing of a 2:iin piuQucL- ii fine echo. Rogers' Rock, or Rogers' Slide is a still more formidable one, on the other hand, a little furthei on. The last retrospect up the lake is stil! very (ine. even from this point — Black Mountain being yet clearly to be seen. Rogers' Slide has its name from Capt. Rosters, a partisan ollicer, who distinguished himselt in the French war by his boldness, activity, and success. He commanded an expedition which leit Crown Point in the year 1756, against the Canadian frontiers, and cut off the Indian village of St. Francis, afterward returning, with the severest hardships, by liie way of Connecticut river. Tradition says, that he was, at another time, closely pursued by a party of Indians, and forced to retreat to the verge of this mountain. Finding no other way to escape, he descended halt down by the ravine which opens towards the south, and then by a sudden turn came to the east side, where is a precipice about two hundred feet high ot smooth rock, and nearly perpendicular, down which which he slipped upon his snow shoes to the lake, escaping upon the ice. Tlie water is deep at the bot- tom, and fine trout are caught there with a long line. The lake here assumes the appearance of a narrovv- pond for three or four miles, and seems closed at both ends. The ground is still elevated on both sides, but hills have succeeded to mountains, and some of ihe.^f are at length overtopped by Black Mountain, whicli although at such a distance, at length makes ils ap pearance as^ain, and continues in sight. The lake a length diminishes to a very narrow stream, and lh( bottom becomes gradually covered with weeds. Lord Howe's Landing is just behind an island c. three acres, on the left-hand at the entrance of the creek. Here is the spot where the unfortunate expe- dition of Abercrombie etfected their landing, and on the island they established their hospital, on their way to Mie attack of Ticonderos'a- TICOKDEBOGA- 11^3 L The steamboat passes on some distance beyond this jjace, and lands her passengers on the other sid^ vhere, at her regular voyages, carriages are found ri| jvaiting to convey them to Ticonderoga, three miles, "^ ;ver a rough road. Those vvho intend to take a steamboat on Lake ohaniplain, should be careful to inquire the hour when t passes, and regulate their time accordingly. Ticon- ieroga has become one of the stopping places, which vill prove a great convenience to the numerous tra~ («llers attracted to this interesting spot. Abercrombie's army passed for some part of the way long the route we travel. Passing the Upper Falls, vhich are the highest, he forded the creek above the econd. At the Falls near the bridge which we cross, ust above the sawmills, was a stone blockhouse ; I nd there was a redoubt on the north side of the stream jiear the bridge, where, as in several other places, I here was some fighting to carry the French outposts. I At the Upper Falls" are several valuable sawmills I nd forges, and the scenery is highly picturesque. THE FORTRESS OF TICONDEROGA. This famous old fortress, or rather its remains, are iistinctly seen from Lake Champlain, though, from the lirection by which we approach it, they are discovered )nly at a short distance. An elevated piece of land, gently sloping towards the south, and ending abruptl}^ )ver a bend of the lake, appears, partially covered with lees, and crowned rjear its extremity with a cluster ,{ broken walls and chimneys. There is a meadow >n the eastern side, running to the base of the ridge, md across this is a footpath from the ferry to the fort }y the nearest way. A carriage road also leads from he ferr^^ to the ridee. and thence dnv^n in ihe s?»rno V^^> ROUTE TO OA^■A]DA 0- The Old French Lines, where General Abercrombie was defeated in 1758, arie the only part of the fortification which was ever the scene of a battle. They commenced on the east side, at a battery of heavy cannon on the shore, about a quarter of a mile south of the ferry. The remains ol the breastwork can yet be seen. The lines were drawn in a zig-zag ; first stretching oflf to the right, along the side of marshy ground to a cluster of bushes where was a battery ; and then to the left to the verge of a wood, where was another. Their course may be distinctly traced in this man- ner, across the ridge of land at its highest elevation, over to the brow of a steep bank looking towards the outlet of Lake George. The ground is so high on the top of this ridge, that it must have been a commanding position when clear of trees. The woods that now so much interrupt the sight, have grown since the evacu- ation of the fortress, after the revolutionary war. There is a fine spring of water near the western part of the French lines, where a bloody engagement occurred between two hostile parties during the battle. Bodies of men have been dug up hereabouts within a few years, and shot were formerly very frequently found in old timber. Mount Hope is a hill about a mile north from this place. It was occupied by General Burgoyne's British line, which formed the right wing on his approach to Ticonderoga, on the 2d of June, 1777. In proceeding from the French lines south towards the fortress, by a gentle descent, the surface of the ground appears to have been in some places smoothed in former times by the plough, and by the removal and cutting away of rocks, to render it convenient for the evolutions ot troops, and the use of artillery. A close obsprvor will also remark that he passes the remain^ TIC0M)ER0GA 1 8 I of sereva} distinct lines of small redoubis, placed at equal distances, and ranged in the form of a quincunx. These were intended to embarrass still further the ap- proach to the fortress, which assimies the air of a more important work as you approach it. There are two old intrenchments, 270 and 150 yards from the fortress ; and then comes the edge of the outer ditch or counterscarp, where there was a row of palisadoes. Five steps more bring you to the walled side of the ditch, which is still eight feet deep in some places, and therefore impassable except where it has been partly filled up. Its breadth is generally about 8 or 9 yards, and the wall of the fortress on the other side in some places 20 or 25 feet high. The fortress is of an angular form, and embraces a large tract of ground, being divided into parts by deep ditches, which were defended by cannon and musketr^^, afid added very much to the security of the place. The communication between these different parts was kept up by stone staircases, placed in convenient po- sitions of the angles, all so calculated as to make the descent into the ditches and the ascent circuitous and intricate, and open to the cannon and small arms. A glance at some of those that remain will show the plan. The walls were originally much higher than at present, being raised by superstructures of logs filled in with earth, to such a height as to protect the barracks. The Barracks formed an oblong, and the walls still remain of all except those on the eastern side ; their form is plainly distinguishable. The parade, which they include, appears to have been formerly carefully smoothed. This area is about 52} yards long, and 8 in breadth. The barracks, &c., the walls of which remain on the north, south, and west sides, are built of the rough blue limestone, of which the neighbour- ing rocks are formed, two stories high ; and these, with the chimneys, several of which are standing, are the principal objects seen from a distance. By the ipouthern entranc^-> Ethan Allen entf^red with his ^ it"^ llObfrK TO CANADA. raw soldiers, when he surprised the fortress on the Ibtn May, 1775; and on reaching the court yard and calling on the commander to surrender, the British officer, Capt. Deplace, made his appearance at a window and submitted, delivering up 3 officers and 44 rank and file. In consequence of this coup de main, this important place was in the hands of the Americans until the arrival of Burgoyne, in 1777. The battlements of Ticonderoga first bore the flag of independence. This circumstance should of itself render this ruin, so fine in other associations, interesting to the traveller. At each comer was a bastion or a demi-bastion ; and under that in the north-eastern one is a subterranean apartment, the access to which is through a small entrance near that corner of ihe court yard. It com- municates with two magazines at the further end : that on the left, which is the larger, being 19 or 20 feet long. The room is also arched, measures about 35 feet in length, 21 in breadth, and 10 or 11 in height, and like the magazines was bomb proof. The cellars south of this, which belonged to the demolished build- ings, and are almost filled up, have a room or two with fireplaces still distinguishable. The Grenadiers' Battery. This important outwork is situated on a rocky point towards the east from the main fortress. They were connected by a covered way, the traces of which are distinctly visible. It was surrounded by a wall faced with stone, with five sides, one of which measures about 180 feet; but that towards the lake has been undermined by time, and slipped down the bank. The remaining parts are nearly entire, and about 10 feet high. ^till in advance of the Grenadiers' Battery is a small work of earth, which might have containecf fire or six a?uBs : while in front of it. and on the extreme point. MdtrvT l>EFIANCEe iJJo vvo or three more guns appear to have been placed etween the rocks, to fire down upon the water, about feet below. A little further east, and under the ank, is an old stone house, formerly a store belonging ) the fort, and now occupied by the tenant of Mr. 'ell, the proprietor of the whole peninsula of Ticon- eroga. On a spot formerly occupied as the King\'i rarden, Mr. P. has a fine garden, abounding in the hoicest fruits imported from Europe, and transported 'om the celebrated nurseries of Long (sland. If it is le intention of the traveller to cross the lalve, to the eighbouring Vermont shore, where are still some ight remains of Burgoyne's intrenchments, he will e much pleased with a walk across the meadows to le upper ferr}'-, a distance of about three-quarters of a lile. Between the Grenadiers^ Battery and the fortress, le shore retains traces of many little terraces, breast- .^orks, and buildings, such as were probably work- lops, barracks, stores, &c. The great mountain, which rises dark and abruptly om the opposite shore, is Mount Defiance, about 800 feet high, on the summit f which Gen. Burgoyne's troops showed themselves n the morning of July 4th, 1777, with a battery of eavy cannon, which they had drawn up along the ;dge by night, and planted in that commanding ^osi- on, whence they could count the men in the fort. ^he distance to the summit in a straight line is about mile, so that the defence of Ticonderoga would have een impossible ; and on the firing of a few shots by le British upon a vessel in the lake, which proved the ange of their guns, the Americans made preparations ) evacuate the place, and eflfected their retreat to the pposite shore during the night. The ascent of Mount Defiance is laborious, but the iew is extremely fine from its summit. There are the smains of Burgoyne's battery, with holes drilled in the •)cks for blasting, and the marks of a larsre blockhouse. 184 hoi;t£ to ijanada. Mount Independence is a hill of comparativeiy smaJ' elevation east of Mount Defiance, and separated froni it by the lake, uhich has here reduced its size totha! of a small river. On a bank, just above the water, are the remains of a zig-zag: battery for about 40 or 50 guns, rutming across a little cornfield behind a house, and making five or six angles. The Horse- ' shoe Battery is traceable on an elevation about a quarter of a mile in the rear. A bridge once connected Ticonderoga with Mount Defiance, the buttresses of which are remaining, to the great annoyance of the uavigators of the lake ; the steauiboat passes to the south of them. On the west shore (near the stone storehouse), Arnold, wiien pursued by the British, caused his flotilla to be run on shore. These hulkh remain almost as sound as when first stranded. A forty-two pounder is said to have ranged from the Horseshoe over this channel (now marked by i< buoy) and the fortress. Alter the Kev^;lutionary war about 500 cannon were lying about the fortress, lines, &.c. many of them as left by the Engh'sh with their trunnions knocked off. The mountainous region on the west side of the Jake abounds with deer, and considerable numbers are killed every season. The Passage fbom Ticonderoga down Lakt: ClIAMPLAIN is very pleasant, abounding, the greater part of the way to Canada, with fine natural scenes. The improvements produced in the country en- closing Lake Champlain, by the establishment of steamboats and the opening of the Northern Canal, have been very great. The produce formerly sent southward was necessarily subject to he:.vy expenses of transportation ; while the merchandise brought in return was liable to delay, uncertainty, injuries by land carriage, and exposure to tlie weather and topilferer^.i LAKE CilAHrLALN. 185 s.-vVich are obviated, and these circumstances, it is well cnown, produce powerful effects. The towns on the ake, five or six years ago, were ill supplied with mer- chandise, which is now found in abundance and cheap. 5ome of them have more than doubled their size since 1822, and numerous villages have sprung up into acti- vity and thrift from almost nothing. New roads have Jso been made into the interior, and mills have been erected on the tributary streams for cutting up the sup- plies of valuable timber in the forests. In the two ;ownships of Crown Point and Moriah, there are abou. 30 lumber mills, which will be able to furnish a million 3f pieces of timber. They contain also vast beds of iron ore, for which forges and furnaces have been arected. The iron region lies between the lake and Lhe north-eastern branch of the Hudson, which heads a miles west of it. At Swanton, Vt., are quarries of dove-coloured and black marble, where 300 saws are kept at work. It is carried to New-York in considerable quantities. Great numbers of small schooners navigate the wa- ters of Lake Champlain, and within a few years nu- merous canal boats, some of them fitted with masts for schooners for sailing. Annesley's mode of building vessels has lately been adopted here to some extent, in which timbers are discarded, and hulls formed of inch boards running in several thicknesses, and in cross directions. Only about 20 vessels sailed on this lake before the canal was opened to the Hudson. In 1827 there were •318 owned in the limits of the United States, with an amount of tonnage of about 12,000. Lake vessels and boats were employed on the canal every year to the number of about 375. Five Mile Point was the landing place of Gen. Bur- goyne's expedition, as already mentioned. Mountains appear in the west and north-west, with occasional intervals all the way up to Crown Point ; while in the Rorth is 3 lofty and impo.-ina" ranere, with two or three 1"86 KOI TJ; TO C'A^AUA. peaks almost bald from the heig^ht of their eievatiou. Summits multiply as we proceed, and distant moun- tains arise also in the north-east ; while Mount Defiance and other eminences towards the southbound the view in that direction. There are scattering- farms and houses on both shores. There are many tish cau?:ht in some parts of the lake. The shores are in this part strewed with the fragments of blue limestone rock with organic remains. The immediate shores are generally low all the way tO' Crown Point, where the lake suddenly turns to the west at a right angle, and at the distance of a mile as suddenly to the north again. A low stretch of land, covered with a youvig forest on the left, conceals the approach to this ancient fortress, which, for position as well as appearance and history, may be called the twin sister ol Ticonderoga. Chimney Pointy where the steamboat often receives and lands passengers, is on the north side of the lake, with a large public house in a pleasant situation ; and here is the place to stop, if the traveller intends to visit Crown Point, which is opposite, across a ferrjf of u mile. A ferry boat will take the traveller over to Crown Point at any hour, but the steamboat proceeds imme- diately. TUE FOETEESS OF CSOWN PoiST. There arc several old works thrown up along the shore, with little bays between them. The eastern- most is called tiie Grenadiers' Battery, the middle one is the original old Fiench fort of 1731, and now encloses a garden ; and that further west is an outwork to a bastion of the fortre5;s. The fortress is situated about a quarter of a mile back from the shore, and appears much like Ticonde- roga from a distance, showing the walls and chimneys nf the old b'firrarks, -av^A wa,]ls o^ earth ^urroiin'^ins" (JiioVviSi ioiiNi'. 187 |;ibem. iii regard to its plan, however, ii 13 mateiially different. The fortress of Crown Point was a star work, being in the form of a pentagon, with bastions at the angles, and a strong redoubt at the distance of |250 or 300 yards in advance of each of them. The fortress is surrounded by a ditch walled in widi stone^ except where it h;is been blasted into the solid rock of blue limestone, (^as is the case in many parts, from five to twenty-five teet,) and even into the quartz rock which underlays it. Univalve shells are found in the jlimestone rock, frequently four inches in diameter. jTlie walls are about 20 or 25 feet high, and there is a convenient path running entirely round upon the top, interrupted only by the gates at the north and south sides. Although much shaded by tall sumacs, some fine views are enjo3^ed in making the circuit, which is not f^ir short of half a mile. It was built in 1736. j Opposite the north gate is a small ledge of rocks ; and close by, the remains of a covered or subterraneous Way to the kike shore. On entering the fortress, the stranger finds himself in a level, spacious area, bounded en the left, and in front, by long ruinous buildings oi" stone, two stories high, and the first 220 feet long, while the ruins of similar ones are seen on two sides on the right. This parade is about 500 feet in length. The place was surprised by Col, Warner in 1T75. Ttie view from the walls towards the north is very fjne : looking down the lake, which widens at the distance of two or three miles, you have Chimney Point on the right, and two other Points projecting beyond* the distant peak, called OitneVs Hump. A range of mounts ins on the weslern shore, beginning at the distance of 18 miles, including Bald Peak, gra- dually approach till they tbrni a near and bold boundary to the lake on the left, scattered with cleared farms and houses, and then stretching away to the south, terminate in the mountains behind. This elevation, although it seenjs almost as well calculated to com- iou Roli'E TO CA^AUA. rnand (Jrowu Point as Mount Defiance doe5 'I'lcofjdfc- roga, is not less than four miles distant. Every thing about this old fortress bears the marks of ruin. Two magazines were blown up ; the timbers in the south barracks are burnt black ; a portion of the shingled roof which remains serves to cover a little hay mow and the nests of robins ; while some of the entrances and other parts are fenced up for a sheep fold. The ground around it is much covered with fragments ot blasted rocks, and, particularly at the south, with the ruins of old buildings. The trees which are seen have grown since the evacuation of the place ; and on one of the angles is an inscription of the date of the fortress. In 1776, the British had a fleet on Lake Champlain. composed of the following vessels : ship Inflexiblej, Capt. Pringle, carrying 18 twelve-pounders ; two schooners, one with 14, the other with 12 six-pounders ; a flat-bottomed radeau with 6 twenty-fours and 6 twelves ; and 20 small craft, each carrying a gun from nine to twenty-four pounders, and several long-boats? besides boats for baggage stores, &;c. The Americans had only 2 brigs, I corvette, 1 sloop^ 3 galleys, and 8 gondolas, the largest vessel carrying only 12 six and four-pounders. These were under the command of x\rnold, who drew them up between the island of Valincourt and the western shore, where they were attacked. They fought four hours, and the British at last retreated ; but while making his way towards Crown Point, Arnold was overtaken, and nearly all the squadron fled up the lake, passing this place which was evacuated. Arnold remained fighting as long as possible, and did not leave his vessel until she had taken fire. On making a signal at the ferry to the steamboat, she will stop and send for a passenger. Proceeding down the lake, the breadth of it soon increases, and at the two islands on the right it is about 1| miles aero?- A little further i's Fut-iii-Bay, on the eastern shore, with an island of he same name. A little north of this is a small island n the right, with three bushes on it, which has hence ,btained' the name of the Scotch Bonnet. Looking outh the lake presents a fine expanse, extending almost Crown Point, with Bald Peak conspicuous on the ight. . Basin Harbour is a stoppmg place. It is very mall, with room for only 3 or 4 vessels. At a great listance in the N. E. is seen the Camel's Hump : fur- her north a high mountain in Halifax, Vt. Sloop Island, 17 miles from Burlington, is low m the niddle, and contains several trees, which look not nlike masts. It was mistaken for a sloop in a misty iay, in the Revolutionary or French war, and fired pon by a vessel, whence its name. At Hartford the lake suddenly opens to the breadth f several miles, and a new scene is presented to view. )n the west side is a rounded island covered with pine rees, like much of the shore previously seen, and eparated from the mainland only by a narrow rent .f about fifteen feet. Apparently just within this perture is a rude arch of rock, like the remains of an .ncient bridge. A beautiful bay makes up behind the sland, of which a glimpse is caught in passing ; and a ittle further north it opens beautifully to view, with a mooth declining shore cultivated for several miles ; vhile a blue range of the Alleghanies rises behind hem, like the Catskill Mountains seen from the city )f Hudson. On the eastern side, the Green Mountains tower at a listance over the wild, uncultivated shore, till a cluster ,f white buildings is discovered forming the little vil- age of Charlotte or M'Neil's Ferry, which is backed 3y a few fields and orchards. Further north the shores ire rocky, and rise abruptly from the water. BURLINGTOiN, 75 miles from Whitehall. This is the largest town on Lake Champiain, and is situated in a commanding as well as a delightful po- sition. The lake suddenly widens as you approach it j from the south, and a fine semicircular bay puts up to it from the west, surrounded by a crescent of high ground, under the shelter of which the town is situated. The view from the top of the hills is truly admirable ;^ embracing in the foreground the elegant gardens of \ some of the wealthier inhabitants, with the streets of Burlington below, the curving form of the ba)', the whole breadlii of the lake, here ten miles across, and a noble chain ^^i distant blue mountains on the opposite side. The college has been rebuilt. The road to Windsor by the Gulf is very good and interesting. The road to Montreal passes Swanton, St. Alban's, &c. The lake is occasionally in sight ; and for a dis- tance of six miles, round the head of Missiscoui Bay, the road runs along the shore. At that place vast quantities of lumber are annually collected. ■i There has lately been established here a glass-house, on a large scale. Port Kent, 10 miles, is a small village on the western shore, 16 miles from Burlington. It was begun to be built in 1824, to serve as a port to the iron works established a little back in the country, where there is a vast quantity of ore. About 2000 tons of iron ore are annually made at Essex and Clinton ; and 5000 or 6000 tons might be furnished. it contains two large stores, a wharf, &,c. A railway has been contemplated from this place to Clintonville on the Sable river, where are extensive mines of iron. The land is favourable, a!]d the wholr 11 North >:Kidh«lat ./^ . Fort Keiit-^ylohn's. They afterward formed at this place a che- vanx-de-frieze in the river. I? ? 3 94 EOUTE TO (?a:\ada. Beyond, the shores continue low and uninierestiiii;, with numerous cabins of settlers near the water, the forest encroaching to within a short distance behind. St. Joh?«'s, 10 miles. Here the steamboat stops, at the head of the rapids, and at the end of navigation. Stage coaches are some- times kept in readiness to take the passengers directly on their way to Montreal (16 miles by land, and 9 by water, on the St. Lawrence, in a steamboat). But the arrangements are sometimes different, and it has even been the custom often to spend a night in this place, rhe stage house, on the left-hand, about a quarter of a mile up the main street, is in some re- spects an excellent house. The village presents nothing worthy of particular attention, except as the scene of some military deeds, connected with the expedition of Gen. Montgomery against this country. While the continental troops were stationed at Isle aux Noix, in 1775, Generals Montgomery and Schuyler invested the fort, which contained a garrison of 5 or 600 troops, besides 200 Canadians, and was commanded by Major Preston- Tlie siege lasted 6 weeks, and they did not capitulate till some time after the surrender of Chambly, nor till the Americans had brought their trenches to the walls of the fort. They then obtained possession of 17 brass pieces, 22 iron, 7 mortars, with balls, bombs, &c. &c. The Canadian money is different from that of the United States ; but in consequence of the continual intercourse, the latter passes currently. Nine sous or coppers, (which are of various and sometimes curious stamps,) equal six cents. 2 sous nearly Id. and 20 cents a shilling. The pleasantest road from St. John's to Montreal, is by Chambly, and Longueil, (for which, see Index.) Leaving St. John's for Montreal, by Laprairie, ^the .AssiaiipHcn I.L4vadie -* LOWEK CANADA, 19,^ i3g-6 I'ouie,) the road passes about a mile along the vestern shore of the River Richelieu, which some imes takes the names of St. John's and Sore], in con- equence of its running by those towns. Several mountains are in sight, as Beloeil, Boucherville, &c. The Rapids may be regarded as a specimen, on a mall scale, of the numerous rapids in the St. Law- lence, which will hereafter excite the interest, if not he apprehension, of the stranger. The bed of the Ri- . helieu has a rapid descent in several places, where it omes immediately under observation, and becomes so I hallow as to be passable for the flattest boats only luring the floods. In the summer it is generally only few inches deep, and the surface broken by nu- Mierous stones of all sizes, and here and there by little waterfalls near the shore. At the same time the i'anks are low and flat ; the houses of one floor, white- washed, and built at nearly equal distances, facing the jiver; and, in short, the general character of a scene in the St. Lawrence, may be imagined from a vic^^ here, by making allowance for its size and fertility. I It has been proposed to make a canal to the St. jiawrence ; but it is said that the channel of the St. ohn's might be improved, by stone walls to confine ■he water over these rapids. The Chambly rapids light be passed by a short canal : and the only re- gaining obstructions till those at the mouth are at St. lierese and Mille Roches. The inhabitants along the road present the aspect of jreigners, in dress, countenance, manners, customs, nd language. Their fashions are antique, and man}^ •f them have not been changed for ages : the men *'ear the Canadian jacket, cap, or hat, red sash, and loccasin of rough leather. The women work labo- iously in the field, and all of them speak French, ge- 'erally without knowing a word of any other lan- :uage. The farms will be observed, laid out in strips f 1 or 200 acres, flat, broad, and 1, 2, or even 3 miles 1 length : ^nd the system of farminsr is extremelv had. 106 ROUTE TO CANADA. as Avill be discovered at once, by the acres that are consigTied to the useless and destructive little Canada Thistle. There is no such thing known here as the doctrine of a rotation of crops, and land is recovered \ to fertility by lying fallow, except that lately the use J of manure has begun to be resorted to in a small de- gree. The horses are of a small breed, well knowii in the northern states by the name of the country. They are small and slow, but powerful and hardy. Many of them are driven .icross the line, and large horses introduced into the towns in return. The value of a common Canadian horse is about $40 ; and of a good one, ^60. Tht* land titles are extremely doubtful : no register being kept, and no security being provided by means of which the legal propriety may be certainly ascertained. The Legislature, hoiv- ever, have had this subject before them. There is very little to be seen on this road to inLo- rest the traveller, except the novelty of what he ob- serves. There is little encouragement to settlers, 12 per cent, is payable to the Seigneur, on sales of real estate, besides other heavy taxes of different descrip- tions. The landscape* is unvarying : the inhabitants, as well as the soil, are poor ; and there is nothing that deserves the name of a village. As appears from tes- timony received by a Committee of the British House of Commons not lon^ since, in many cases land of ex- actly the same description is worth from 10 to 15 shil- lings an acre on the Vermont and iS'ew-York side of the line, and only 1 shilling on the Canada side. We pass a house now and then, dignified by a taJl pole or mast raised in front of it, which is a singular mark of distinction conceded to officers of militia, and usually adopted by those of the lowest grades. The people appear very happy, and have healthy countenances, inclining to round faces and thick lips. Many of them show the upper fronr teeth when silent ; and their aspect, although oftentimes shrewd, denotes a want of education, which is the real cause of thf^ LArKAlKIE. I Hi , backward condition of society in Canada. They are ill Catholics ; and the churches seen here and there jpon the road, are devoted to the service of the iomish church. One large church, lately built of grar 'tone, will be seen on the south side of the road. l It has been suggested that a railroad might be ad- j'antageously constructed from St. John's to Laprairie. ) The Half-Way House js dirty and disagreeable ; but the inhabitants under- jtand English, and it is generally stopped at only a few ninutes. The land is divided in some places by ,i itches round the farms; and there are the channels of jeveral small streams which cross the road. One j'f these is passed on a bridge, just east of the stop- Ding place. About half a mile beyond, are some barracks built or troops, dio'ing the late war. One of the most sin- ^^:ular traits in the domestic arrangements of the Cana- lians, is building the oven not only out of doors, like he Dutch, but directly over the pig sty. The mountain from which the city of Montreal de- lved its name, and which rises immediately behind t, may be discovered at a great distance ; and the jiouse of Mr. M°Tavish may be perceived, like a vhite spot, a little distance up its side. Some time before reaching the river, you pass an ;xtensive common, lying on the south side of tlio road. ■nd then the town of Laprairie. This is a large town, from which the steamboat.^ VIontreal and Edmund Henry cross several times ;i 'lay, to Montreal, 9 miles. The place is built after j he Canadian fashion ; and very few of the inhabit- I'nts speak English. The streets are narrow, the: houses low. and nnthina* is to bo ppen worthy of pr^r 198 KIVER ST. LAW KEN Li:. ticular notice, excepting; a nunnery and the churcii. both which may seem curious to persor)s who are noi familiar with Catholic countries ; though of inferior interest to those of Montreal and Quebec. The nuns possess a larg^e tract of land, nearly in the centre ot the town, which is surrounded by a high wall : and they devote their time to the care of the sick, and the education of girls. The view of Montreal from the wharf is uninter- rupted. The city is distinguished at the distance of 9 miles, by its thick mass of buildings, roofed with I sheets of tin, and overtopped by church spires, shining ! with the same metal. Behind it rises a line moun- J tain, spotted with orchards ; on the right, down the St. Lawrence, is the fortified island of St. Helen ; and on the left, that of the Nuns, and several smaller ones at a distance, through which are seen the sheets of white foam caused by the rapids. The shores are low and perfectly flat in every direction ; which, with the wide expanse of water, gives an aspect of tire- some monotony and extension to the scene. At a great distance up are seen Isle Heron and others. Uni- formity will be found characteristic of almost the whole voyage to Qtiebec. The current of the river will appear extremely rapid, particularly near those parts where the surface is broken by rocks ; but the steamboats are supplied with engines comparatively powerful, and are able to effect the passage with facility and in safety. It is impossible for any boat to go through the current | without being borne rapidly down in some places ; and there is a part of the river near the middle, where the water is clear, and the rocks are easily seen on ; the bottom, as the boats glide on above them. In re- turning, the boats sometimes pass between two rocks, near the rapids, that on the east being under water. Here the river is much agitated, and sometimes thrown the water on deck without any danger. A particular description of the various obierts if Monti eal, and the vicinity, will be postponed for the present ; and it is necessary here to mention only the more prominent objects which strike the eye on the approach. A large tinned roof on the left, with a small steeple, beloriijs to the convent of Gray Nuns ; further back is the RecoUet church ; then the French Parish church, near which is seen the Great Cathedral. The Eng- lish Episcopal church has a tall pyramidal spire ; and that which rises farther to the right, and near the shore, is the church of Bon-secours. From some places may be seen the top of Nelson's monument, with se- veral other remarkable objects, particularly the bar- racks, on the right, behind the remnant of the old city wall. MONTREAL. hns. Masonic Hall,* at the north end of the city, with a piazza over the bank : Goodenough's, St. Paul's-street ; Mansion house, do. by Martinant. Also Jiamp's hotel. These are all large houses, and por- ers will be found on the shore belong:ing to each, who .vill convey the luggage, and show the way. l, The landing place is unpleasant, and the stranger nay be struck with the narrowness of the streets, the owness and heavy aspect of the houses, which are of I -tone or plastered to resemble it : but all this is in j conformity with the tashion of the country ; and Mon- ;real contains many fine buildings and other objects -vorthy of notice, together with a vicinity which in he warm season of the year is truly delightful. Those who remain but a short time in this city, aay easily pay a hasty visit to the principal objects of ij ' ' Tlic Masonic Hall is the most expensive hotel in Montreal. It is ( ept l)y Mr. Riasco, an Italian, and has a restauratit in the French fa- Sl 1 lion, wJiere the stranger may select his dinner from a lonj; bill of fare. ■., I 'lie hifjliest rate of board, including private parlour, &c. is 11. 5s. pei ! ly- The main, building is 4 !5torics high, and the two wings 3. < uriosity ; and are recommended to vMm a walK through the two principal streets, and to notice the following buildings and places. At the north end of St. Paul's-street are the Bar- racks. Above these are the Hospital and Public Baths. Just above the Masonic Hall, is the French church of Bon-secours, which, like the other Canadian religious buildings generally, is formed much on the plan of those in France. The roofs are, however, generally covered with tin, which is not much used in other countries. This is near the northern limit of Montreal, beyond which begins the Qpebec suburb. Masonic Hall, on the eastern side of the street. Theatre, adjoining the Masonic Hall. Market Place'^ and JVelsoyi's Monument. Then fol- lows a double row of shops. On the east side are several, which show articles of Indian manufacture for sale. These, however, had better be bought at the nunneries, if it is intended to visit them. Tlie Black Nuns' Garden, Convent, and Chapel, are on the west side of the street. The wall is very high. The porter at the gate will give admission and direc- tions, but in French. Visiters are expected to pur- chase a few articles of nuns' or Indian manufacture. It is most agreeable to go in parties. The New Cathedral and Old Parish Church ai*e close by : a short street leads to them, west. TiiE New Cathedral is probabl}^ the largest church in North America, un- less exceptions are to be made in favor of Mexico. Thij: edifice is at present partly concealed by the old Ca- thedral, which is to be removed on its completion, to leave the front open to a large square : the Place d'Armes. It was commenced in 1825, and the walls raised and the roof partly finished at the close c ' 1 r.?ri' jv.arlvOf h to be bni'* Inst^a't of thr oT''. iti^l. Mr. O^Donnell, the architect employed in su- perintending the work, ^ave the plan, which is partly :opied from some of the European models of the 13th, I4th, and 15th centuries, Jt is of the plainest style :hat can bear the name of Gothic : any exuberance of :)rnament being inconsistent with a climate so severe as .hat of Canada. It is 255 feet lonp: from Avest to east, and 134 feet iivide. It was designed to have six quadrangular :owers, each 200 feet high : 3 on each flank, and 2 at 3ach end. The curtain, or space between the front iowers is 73 feet by 119, and has parapets. There lire 5 public entrances and 3 private to the first floor, md 4 to the galleries. The building can contain 10,000 persons, which number may assemble and dis- perse in a few minutes. The eastern window over .he high altar is 32 by 64 feet, and is to be divided by ihafts and muUions for stained glass. The groins of :he ceiling are painted in fresco. The ceiling will be 30 feet high, groined and partly supported by a double ange of grouped columns, intersected by rails. The :ircuit of the edifice is 1125 feet. There are to be 7 altars. The floor rises gradually From the entrance to the high altar. The house is to 3e warmed by heated air from stoves under the floor. The exterior is faced with hewn stone, from the moun- tain. A promenade 75 feet by 25, elevated more than 100 feet between the towns will command a noble view. It is now roofed, and nearly completed. Goodenough's Hotel is on the west side, in a court yard. — Further on, a street on the opposite side brings you in sight of the Gray A?s exposed to the United States, and practicable in lake vessels of 125 tons. It is a great undertaking, and when completed, which it will proba- bly be in a few years, will afford a most interesting episode to the travellers' tour. It will present a com- bination of fine natural objects and noble structures of art. Those who have leisure, will be pleased with a view of some of the works in their unfinished state. Others may perhaps read with gratification a brief description of some of the principal objects on the route. Stage coaches run to By town in connexion wilh steari! boats. At Merrick's Snie, are to be 3 locks of 8 feet lift ; and a dam, 7 feet high and 180 long, at the head of it, to lift the Rideau river into the Snie. Considerable excavations of earth and rock in the Snie. At Edmund's Rapids, a dam 8 feet high, and 400 long ; and a lock of 6 feet lit\. The excavalions, both A earth and rock, are considerable. Near Philip's, at the same rapids, is another dam, 8 feet high and 250 long ; and a lock of 6 feet lift. At the Old Slys, on the Rapids of Smith's Fall, is a dam 18 feet high and 210 long ; and two locks of 8 feet lift. At the First Rapids is a dam 9 feet in height an4 250 in length, with a lock of 7 feet lift. There is also an embankment of wood and clay, 2 miles lons:^ THE OTTAWA KIVEB. 209 At Cfaaffey's Mills is a dam 30 feet high and 80 wide, vvith two locks of 9 feet lift. \t Nicholson's Rapids is a dam 16 feet high and 240 ong: ; a lock of 10 feet lift, and an embankment 8 feet ,iii8;h and 280 in length, &c. &c. The stone was found convenient on the ground, and ,ilso lime, wood, and stone. 1 The Rideau Canal will open to a navigable con- .lexion a vast extent of country, and if extended be- yond the Rideau Lake,* would lead to the shores of akes and rivers, as yet imperfectly known, as indeed j re those through which the canal already lies. The load from Kingston to Montreal crosses the Rideau !^anal at Tuttle's hill, and a new village called Ever- •:reen. . Boats go from Montreal up the Grand River to the nouth of the Rideau, and the commencement of the ;anal, by the La Chinp and GrenvilJe canals. A pas- . age may now be easily obtained in steamboats. The I'Villiam Kingy a boat built on the Annesley plan, began in 1839 to run between Hawkesbury, Grenville, and [iull, in connexion with a line. Bytown is situated at the junction of the Rideau and Dttawa ; it is 120 miles from Montreal, and 150 from * Xearly west from tlie city of Montreal, distant about 20 miles, tlm Mtatva river from the west fails into one of tlic baysof tlieSt. Lawrence, ['he Ottawa is itself a large and navigable stream, rising in the recesses )f tlie Chippewa country, live or six hundred miles north-west from the sland and city of Montreal ; flowing north-ea*t until within about 120 niles above its mouth, receivps Rideau, and assuming a nearly easterly lirecrion, communicates with the St. Laurence, as already stated. Tlie Rideau is a small, but an impottant river, rising in Leeds county, owrisliip of Kitley, Lower Canada, within 30 miles of the St. Lawrence, n the lower end of the Thousand Islands. At its s^ource the Rideau is A slu<;;gish stream, and in no part of its course much impeded by falls ; its entire length, however, is not above 60 miles ; course north-east nearly. Near the head of the Rideau, and on the .^ame table land, extends lake Gannonoqui, discharging its waters into the St. Lawrence, 20 miles below Kingston, and the botiom of lake Ontario. The entire distance from Sie month of tfie Ottawas to that of tlie Gannonoqui, by the route of tlie intended canal, is nearly 190 miles, and by the St. Lawrence 160. The ';anal route, therefoip. ('Yrr.o,|.7riTit nf tlm *=t T.^iw-vfripp. nsin fnl6 — O; ^210 KOUTE IX CANADA. Kingston, and is expected to become an important place from its situation. The Rideau received its , French name from the beautiful cascade, like a white i curtain^ with which it descends 27 feet, into the Ottawa. North of the town the Ottawa is about a mile in breadth. It has a fall of 32 feet, and is diver- sified with numerous islands. Below the fall the water is very deep ; and the Rideau Canal here descends to i it down a narrow cleft in a precipitous bank by eight ^i Jocks of fine stone work, ten feet lift. The canal, on i gaining the eminence, passes through the village, and opens upon a large beaver meadow of 250 acres, ) which receives a branch canal from Lake Chaudiere on the Ottawa, and will form a large basin for timber. A little south of the town is a mountainous ridge, through which the canal passes by a natural notch, j The western part of the village is situated on high and commanding ground ; and an hospital and military barracks have been erected on the Cape, at an eleva- tion of 200 feet above the river. This is capable of being rendered impregnable, and has attracted the attention of English engineers. Co66'5 Cave is an extensive cavern, discovered in 1828 by a lady. Bytown was a wilderness in 1826 ; and in 1827 con- tained 2000 inhabitants, with a market, school-house, and four churches built and building. It is likely to become a place of screat trade, even in furs ; and there are mines of iron, lead, and tin, and quarries of marble in the vicinity. The Great Ottawa Bridge.' — This is an immense structure, of bold design and admirable worknanship. The first two arches on the Lower Canada side, are each sixty feet span, and of store, extending over the two channels on that side of the Kettle. Then follows a piece of wooden bridge, rising on trestles, which brings the traveller to an island, beyond which is a rapid and tumultuous current, called the Chaudiere Or^at Kettle. Over thi<5 an attempt was made, which TUE ST. LAWUEACJi;. i^I T .vas repeated in 1828 with success, to throw a mag- fnficent arch, of 220 feet span. Two arches cross the J mailer channels on the other side. i From the bridge a tine road had been opened in the jipper province to the village. A wooden bridge on ihis road, 114 feet span, crosses a gulley. : Hull is opposite Bytown, connected with it by the treat Ottawa L>ridge. This township belongs to Philemon Wright, Esq. an American farmer of great iffluence and experience. His settlement, called 'iVrightstowu, is seen from Bytown, being situated at jfae Falls. ii Route from Montreal to Niagara. (For this route see pages 104 to 109.) j ROUTE FROM MONTREAL TO QUEBEC. Road to Quebec. Notwithstanding the common prejudices against [ravelling by land in Canada, which are entertained |iy many persons not acquainted with the country, it 5 recommended to those who may find it convenient, a make arrangements for performing a part of the 'ourney in this manner, eithei- going or returning. The country is mdeed a dead level, but it is entirely educed to cultivation, thickly populated, and blessed vith good roads. The way lies along the very margin )f the St. Lawrence, passing an almost uninterrupted uccession of dwellings, and supplied with many com- oriable and some good inns, which will be particu- arly mentioned. As the strength of the current makes the passage of he steamboats up the river about 12 hours longer than hat down, it would on this account be better to return jj land ; and this course would certainly be recom- nended, but for the greater difficulty of obtaining good :arriages in (Quebec. It is to be hoped that regulai^ 'li'i KOLTI: TO UUJJBEU. coaches will eie long be established to run betweeii the two cities ; for, at present, it is necessary to hire a caleche, or a stage coach, at a pretty high price. At Three Rivers (Trois Rivieres), 60 miles, the tra- veller may dismiss his carriage, and enter the steam- boats, which regularly stop there up and down. Steamboat to Quebec Leaving Montreal in the steamboat, you pass under the fort on St. Helen's Island, the steeples and cupolas ' of the city being seen nearly in the following order be- ginning at the south end ; Gray Nuns', Ricolet Church. Black Nuns', New and Old Cathedrals, Episcopal Church, Nelson's Monument, Bon-secour Church. Near the last, on the shore, is the Masonic Hotel, then the Barracks, Waterworks, and Baths, the beginning* of the Quebec suburbs, the residences of Judge Reed and Mr. Malson, with terraced gardens towards the river, &c. A little below is Malson's Brewery, and the late Sir John Johnson's residence, (a grandson of Sir William Johnson, for whom seepage 57.) The house is of brick, with a piazza. The Rapids of St. Mary are between the island and these last-mentioned objects, and run with such rapidity that steamboats are sometimes obliged to be drawn up by cattle a little distance. Longueil, just below St. Helen's. Longue Pointe, 6 miles (2 leagues) from Montreal. Vercheres, on the east side. Varennes has a church with double spire. Pointe aux Trembles, 9 miles, (3 leagues.) Here is a nunnery, in which is a pretty large school for girls. There are two good inns in the place. Bout de risk. Here is no village, but only a ferry. Contrecosur, on the east. Repentigny, a pretty village. At this place it is recommended to the traveller by !aj>d. to make a deviation from the direct road along: DSThroori -*''■• Ti{Ai>E Oi- TILE. ST. LAWKEKCi:. :iK> he river, if he finds it convenient, to see the delightful country between it and the town of Assomption. There s a beautiful road on each bank, varied with houses md trees. Return so as to strike the road near St, >ulpice. St. Sulpice, 24 miles (8 leagues) from Montreal. La Moraye. Bertkier. Here is an excellent inn, kept by a man rom the United States, whose wife is a Canadian. Machiche is a pretty town, at the mouth of the liviere du Loup, and has a very neat and comfortable nn, of the best Canadian stamp, and famous for many ailes round. Many French customs are still preserved »y the unmixed inhabitants of the St- Lawrence, some I which are agreeable and interesting. At many of he inns, the traveller vvill receive the most kind and lospitable attentions, and will find great gratification 1 observing the handsome flower-gardens, as well as he neat arrangement of the furniture. At this house 5 a handsome collection of green-house plants. There is very little variety to be discovered in the latural surface of the ground, but the journey through his region presents almost an unvarying scene of cul- ivation and fertility. For a great part of the distance, here is a narrow strip of corn or potatoes between the oad and the river's bank, to correspond with the fields vhich stretch off to such a distance on the other hand ; nd the variety of crops, and the occasional rows and lumps of trees, remove, in a good degree, the natural ameness of the landscape. Navigation and Trade of the St. Lawrence, &c. Steamboats are of the utmost importance on this great iver, for they contribute extremely to the convenience «d expedition of travelling, and render most valuable :ssistance to commerce. There are many steamboats ^mstantly employed betweeu Montreal and Quebec, ^^14 ROl/TE TO UUliJlEC. most of them fitted to accommodate passe tigers, a; well as to carry freight, and all provided with power- ful engines. In 1828 a passage was made from Que- bec to Montreal, in a steamboat, in 20 hours and 40 jj minutes — the shortest ever known. The principal | article of export from Canada ie lumber, a great dtali of which is carried to Quebec in immense rafts, and then shipped for England. These rafts have usually a great number of sails to hoist in a fair wind, with huts to shelter the men from the weather, so that they have a very sii)gular appearance, and at a little dis- tance look like a fleet of sail boats. The population of Lower Canada is estimated at about 200,000. The French Canadians, notwithstanding the common prejudices against them, appear, on acquaintance, to be an intelligent people. They certainly are amiable, cheerful, and gay, and their backwardness in improve- ments is attributable to the system under which they live. They are generally brought up in great igno- rance, and they are taught to dislike and avoid not only the Protestant principles, but Protestants them- selves. The author has the word of one of thein priests for stating, that not more than one-sixth of the population are ever taught to read or write. In New-j England, as is well known, the law provides for the instruction of every child, without exception : and every child is actually instructed. Books and news- papers, therefore, lose their effect as well as theii value among these people. The British government have encouraged schools here, but until lately, almo.*-* without success. Among those regions where Englisi and Scotch have settled, instruction is gaining ground and in Montreal, the public schools are rising in im portance : but it is to be feared that the Catholi' priests will long continue to oppose the extension o real knowledge, and that while they retain their in fluence, the character of the people will remain dt pressed. The " Procedure'^ ot Canada is founded on the edic; TOWN OF S'JEEL. 21 Of )t Louis 14th, of 1667, and is the basis of the Civil Jode. There were no lawyers before the conquest 'n 1759, when they were created; and martial law Drevailed from that time till 1774. The trial byjury N-ds introduced in 1785 ; and the constitutional charter n 1791. There are many signs of prosperity exhibited by the farmers between Montreal and Three Rivers, in the extension or erection of buildings. On each farm is jsually to be seen about half an acre of Indian corn, vhich will furnish 18 or 20 bushels ; and it is the cus- lom not to build fences, the cattle being kept from the and, and fed on weeds until the crops are off. ' The houses are generally of one story, and are built i)f wood or stone, according to the nature of the coun- iry. Some of them are formed of squared timbers, md even of round logs ; but the latter are usually em- ployed for the construction of barns only, which are l)ften covered with thatch. The houses and barns are I'requently composed of several small buildings, erected it different periods, according to the capacity or neces* ities of the proprietors. William Henry, or Sorel, i 45 7niles, or 15 leagues, from Montreal I This toAvn, though quite small, is one of the princi- |Dal places between the two capitals. It is on the 1 50uth side of the St. Lawrence, at the mouth of the Sorel, or Richelieu, in a very sandy situation; and :ontains nothing worthy of notice except a little old I :hurch, a palisadoed fort, and a neat little square, at I he distance of a short walk, surrounded with several laretty white houses, a church, &c. a little in the New- England style. The fences are generally low, and ! iiford the sight of gardens. The flowers which abound in the Canadian gardens ire principally roses, carnations, sweet-williams, can- 210 ROUTE TO QUEBEC. didus, monthly roses (blossoming only a part of the year). As the steamboats usually stop here half an hour or more, there is time enough to go on shore. The popu- lation principally consists of disbanded soldiers, so that the dwellings are generally poor, and most of the peo- ple speak some dialect of English. The garrison con- tains only 30 or 40 men in time of peace, and the com- manding officer has a pretty residence opposite the town, where the fields have a green and fertile ap- pearance. The Government House stands about three-quarters of a mile beyond the town. It is a large red building, with barracks near it. The boat turns round on leav- ing Sorel, and returns to the St. Lawrence, the distant land beginning to have some elevation. On the opposite point. Gen. Montgomery erected batteries on taking the place, in 1776, and prepared rafts and floating batteries, which maintained an en- gagement with the ships in which Gov. Carleton at- tempted to escape to Q,uebec, and drove him back towards Montreal. He afterward passed them in an open boat at night ; but his vessels fell into the hands of the Americans. Bertkier is on the opposite side of the St. Lawrence, but out of sight, being behind several low islands. Some of the steamboats stop there instead of at Sorel. There is a ferry across. Lake St. Peter. On entering this large tract of water, the shores at the opposite end appear like mere lines upon the hori- zon, the land being still so flat near the river as to seem hardly sufficient to prevent it from overflowing. A vessel at the opposite end appears like a mere -^peck, the length of the lake being 20 miles. Powte dn Jjor. or Woorllands, is seen on (he northern THREE KIVEKS. 217 .shore, when nearly across ; but it is situated beyond the lake. A ridge of hi^h land continues on the north, : following; the course of the river. Opposite Woodlands is JVicolet, 9 miles from Three I Rivers. The place is large, and contains an English and a French church, together with a nunnery, and a college, founded by the Catholic bishop of Quebec. * Three Rivers, [Trois Rivieres,] Half way. This is the largest town between Montreal and Qjue- I bee, and is 96 miles from the former, and 84 from the latter. The streets are generally straight, and regu- larly built, though narrow ; and t?ite houses, although ^'leat, are generally only one or two stories high, with windows in the roofs, and being principally plastered, iiiave rather a dark aspect, like those of Montreal. It [contains shops of various sorts, and several inns of a decent appearance. The Nunnery is in the east part of the town, and lias extensive grounds connected with it. The Chapel of the Convent has a number of pic- tures, of which the one on the right of the main altar is the best : Magdalen weeping. The Parish Church is in the south part of the town. Two large buildings, formerly the Court House and Jail, with the Nunnery, I are the principal objects. I While the American forces were on the retreat from Quebec, in 1775, Gen. Sullivan sent Gen. Thompson , down from Sorel to attack this place. He went down the right bank of Lake St. Peter, and landed 9 miles 'from the town; but being discovered and misled, he (ound Gen. Frazer drawn up in order of battle, while Gen. Nesbit was sent to cut off his retreat ; and the battle, which immediately commenced, was short and ! disastrous to the assailants, who lost their commander, and many officers and soldiers, as prisoners, although llhey had few killed. After several hours we ap- proarh T e 2U' ROUTE TO QUEBEC . Le Bigmux, a village on the south side of tlie iiver. known by its double-spired church. It stands on a steep bank, about 60 feet high, and marks the com- mencement of the Richelieu rapids. The river here winds between broken banks, and the number of cottages is so great as to make the scene more animating. A few blue, but not lofty, mountains are seen down the river. Rapids of Richelieu. The river, which is about two miles wide, here runs with great velocity, particularly the first three miles ; but the wat-T is deep, and the surface unbro- ken, except near the shores, which are lined with in- numerable loose round stones and rocks, extremely dangerous to vessels when they get among them. These rocks seem placed with much regularity, form- ing two ranges, and making the water appear as if it had a gradual swell from both sides to the middle of the river. Although the navigation of this part of the St. Lawrence requires great skill and caution in other vessels, steamboats pass with security ; yet, on account of the force of the current at ebb tide, even they are obliged to vary their hours of leaving Quebec, in such a way as to have the flood through the rapids. Ves- sels are often seen waiting at the bottom of the rapids for a change of tide, or for a steamboat to tow them up. The rapids extend about nine miles. Si. Antoine, on the south bank, is 18 miles (6 leagues) from Quebec. The mountain seen towards the north- east is that of Lorette, and the bank on that side makes a beautiful slope to the river, agreeably varied by cultivated fields, interrupted by occasional patches of woodland : on the side of the ridge, about midway from the water to the top, passes the road. The south shore, on the contrary, continues high and abrupt, and nearly perpendicular, with innumerable cottasres peeiv insT over the bronv j WOLFE'S COVE. i\'J li r Poinie aux Trembles ^ 3. \i\hge on the north shore. •- The river is about the same breadth all along- Iiere, viz. about two miles, although it appears much nar- rower ; the depth is about five fathoms, and the tide irises 14 or 15 feet. Notwithstanding the thickness of the population on the shores, the country is a wilder- ness only about four miles back, being comprehended in what is called the King''s Hunting Ground, which ex- tends from Three Rivers, 40 or 50 miles below this place. Jacques Cartier, 30 miles from Quebec. This is a village on the north side, situated at the mouth of the i river of the same name, which is likewise distinguished by the name of the first explorer of the river St. Law- rence. Here are the remains of the first church built in Canada. 1 Carouge Creek, on the north side. Here a pretty view opens, for a few minutes, into the interior, on the i north shore, showing the Indian village of Lorette, at I the distance of three or four miles, with an extent of ; beautiful land, and a range of fine mountains in the i rear. I Chaudiere River is a little below, with a rock on the lower side, at its mouth. I Looking down the St. Lawrence, part of Point Levi I IS seen, covered with white buildings, one of which is the church. It is opposite Quebec, which remains for I a considerable distance invisible. The banks rise to I a greater and greater height, and present every variety of surface. Sillery Cove is a mile below, above which was fought the final battle between the English and French, in 1759, after the capture of Quebec by General Wolfe, which completed the conquest of Canada. At the village are the remains of the first church ever built in Canada. Wolfe's Cove is behind the next point. This is the place where Wolfe landed in the night, and up the precipitous bank he climbed with his troops, after- ward drawing up his cannon. Here Gen. Arnold J2U QLCliEC. afterward took up his troops, in 1755. There i> a re- markable rock projecting from the bank, at the head of the cove, a little to the right of which is seen a road running up the hill, at the place where the troops went up, when there was nothing but a footpath. The spot is about a quarter of a mile west of a large yellow house above the bank. Cape Diamond is the abrupt bluff in which termi- nates the high land on the north, and under the oppo- site side of which Quebec is situated. It is 348 feet high, and the fortified lines on its brow belong to the city walls, and the citadel, which is included by them. The telegraph is raised on the Cavaliers' Battery, and the round buildings on the ridge are Martello towers, which serve as advanced works to the fortress. The opposite point is Point Levi ; and the mountains of St. Anne and Tourmente appear many miles down the river. General Montgomery was killed just at the base of Cape Diamond, in attacking a blockhouse on the shore, in 1775. QUEBEC. The Lower Town of Quebec begins near this spot, and stretches along at the foot of the rock, while the Upper Town soon begins to open to view above, though the principal part of it is on the top and the opposite side. The harbour requires a pier for its protection, on account of the extreme rapidity of the currents caused by the tide, and particularly the ice. The subject has been recommended to the government. The Castle of St. Louis, or the Governor's House, overhangs the precipice, being built on supporters ; and makes a conspicuous appearance, interrupting the city wall, which encloses the Upper Town. The new Monument to Wolfe and Montcalm is also visible from some points on the river. But (lie current is too swift to allow much time for ■ jbsertation before arriving at the wharf, where the traveller will find servants in waiting from the prin- cipal public houses in the city : these are all in the Upper Town, the ascent to which is intricate as well as steep and laborious, so that the stranger will want their assistance as guides. 1 Inns. Union Hotel, Mr. Lemoine's Boarding House, Malhiot's.41 St. John's-street, La Fontaine's, opposite. A book called the " Picture of Quebec" is recom- mended to the traveller. j The Lower Town is crowded and dirty, and con- tains no decent public houses. After three or four turns, you begin to ascend Mountain-street, which is very steep and laborious, and leads to a gate in the city wall, which is very massive, built in the old Eu- ropean style, of solid stone, very thick, with narrow passage ways for carriages and footmen, and a guard ;chamber above, with loop-holes for musketeers. On the right, after passing this gate, is a battery of heavy I guns ; and the road in that direction, by the city wall, conducts to within a few steps of Mr. Lemoine's. On the contrary, to go to the other houses mentioned, it is necessary to follow the street which opens a little to 'the left, and leads into the midst of the city. ' A walk to the Esplanade, in the highest part of the I city, by the wall, is very delightful at morning oreve- Ining, as it commands a fine view ; but Cape Diamond i the finest of all. It is recommended to the stranger to seize the first , pleasant days to make excursions to the Falls of Mont- morency, the village of Lorette, &c. which will be jmore particularly spoken of hereafter; and it will be i found much better, on several accounts, to set out as 1 early in the morning as possible. ! The walls of Quebec enclose the upper part of the hill, and a little of its declivity on the north side ; but I the space is so small that the buildings are extremely ♦-crowded tos-ether, and the streets are as closely built. .222 <4U£BEC. , • as in the largest cities. V^eiy few of the private houses present any thing- remarkable, but there are many public buildings worthy of particular attention. Population, in 1825, about 22,000. A traveller, in 1828, arrived here from N. York (684 miles) in 75 hours, by regular route. The French Parish Church stands on one side of the public square, facing the barracks, where is also the seminary. The church contains little that is re- markable, the whole interior appearing rather ordi- nary, and the pictures having little to boast of: the principal of them are a Holy Family, an Ascension, Crucifixion, Descent of Tongues, and Last Supper. The College, which stands a little to the right in coming out of the church, is a large stone building in which a considerable number of youth are educated by priests, and may be distinguished in the city by wearing the long black gown, sash, and cornered cap, common to such institutions in Catholic countries. The Chapel of the Seminary, which stands a little left from the principal gate, contains the best collec- tion of pictures, it is said, in all Canada : beginning on the right-hand near the door, is a picture of the Virgin Mary attended by angels, &,c. ; in the first chapel on that side is a picture of the Crucifixion, over the altar ; on the right, the Baptism of the Ethiopian, John's Baptism, St. John ; on the left, a portrait, St. Peter receiving the keys, infant Saviour, Devotees, &c. on the church wall, next is a good picture un- known, then the Ascension, and Interment of the Sa- viour ; and over the high altar, a Holy Family, and Dove descending ; what appears to be some priest's dream ; on the left side, is the Descent of Tongues, and an Angel visiting a saint in prison, good ; over the altar in the remaining chapel, is the Baptism in the Wilderness, with a number of poor pictures ; and in the church- are an Evangelist, Wise Men presenting gifts, kc. In two gilt boxes, one on each side of the high altar. CASTLE OK ST. LOtlJ;. 2!S?0 ;ire two skulls, with several human bones, placed against red silk, which are regarded with supersti- tious reverence, as holy and perhaps miraculous relics ; a lamp is kept constantly burning under that on the I left-hand. The Barracks are in a large stone building opposite , the church, which was formerly the Jesuits' College : I it is three and four stories high, forming an angle like an L, each side of which is about 200 feet long. Here are quartered the troops which garrison the city ; , they have heretofore consisted of two regiments of I infantry, two companies of artillery, and one of sap- ' pers and miners. The Exchange^ a new edifice, will ^ also contain a Reading Room. ' Convents. There are two convents in Quebec ; one ] of them has about 40 Ursulines^ who have a large , convent and church near the prison, in the west part I of the city, and keep a large school for girls. The I other convent is lower down, and contains an hospital j for diseases of the lighter kinds ; while the most se- rious and severe are treated at the nunnery near the St. Charles's River, about 1^ miles above the town. These institutions, however, are not now open to vi- siters as they formerly were ; at least it is generally impossible to gain access to them. The Hotel Dieu is an hospital, under the care of Nuns ; and the Emigration Hospital affords relief to sick strangers. Tiie Arsenal is near the palace gate, and contains ' about 100,000 stand of arms, arranged with great re- gularity. ,' The Castle of St. Louis is a large building, but makes I a less imposing appearance than v;hen seen from the water. The street beyond commands a fine view ; and there are several beautiful terraced gardens formed I on the steep side of the rock, almost overhanging^ the 1 buildings in the lower town. j The fortifications of the city on the land side are j strong, and worthy of particular attention ; as before 221 uLi-iij^c. remarked, they may be examined wiih mitiebi ujr taking a walk in that direction, in the morning or evening-. St. Louis's Gate is the highest city gate, and the street of the same name conducts to it ; this leads to the famous Plains of Abraham. The monuments toL Wolfe and Montcalm will be erected in the Upper Garden. The Esplanade Battery lies between St. Louis and 8t. John's gates, and contains 12 cannon and 4 mor- tars, with magazines built where they could not be injured by an enemy's shot. The ground slopes in such a manner as to expose a large extent of country lo view : the fine fertile plain beyond St. Charles's River, the beautiful ridge of lands beyond, with the villages of Lorette, Charlebourg and others ; the St. Lawrence on the right, with Point Levi, the Isle of Orleans, and the fine ranges of distant mountains. The mouth of the Montmorency can easily be discerned, on the left bank of the St. Lawrence, about 9 miles from the city ; that is the spot where the falls are to be seen, and the battle ground where Gen. Wolfe made an unsuccessful attack on the French Gen. Dies- kau, before the capture of the city. Mounting- to the parapet near the gate of St. Louis, the plan ot the defences may be in part discerned, even by an unpractised eye ; and by descending and passing through the gate, the strength of the place will be better understood. The walls of the city, the bastions, and other works, are from 20 to 30 ^et in height, and formed of stone. The path is made to turn several abrupt angles, in order to expose the ap- proach to raking fires. In coming towards the gate t'rom the country, at the first angle, the stranger is brought to face 8 cannon, placed in two rows, at the second angle 2, and at the third 2 ; at the fourth he sees 3 on the right and 3 on the left ; and at the fifth finds himself in front of the gate, which has a gun ou its top. The gate is of very heavy and durable ma- THE CITAUEX,. 223 iioury, and ihe passage through it is a darJs; arched way, ibout 55 feet long"; it is closed by two heavy doors, with wickets so placed as not to face each other. ] Near the Hospital is part of the old French wall, iibout 50 feet high, which contains gentlemen's gar- dens, 1 The Citadel, on Cape Diamond, is designed for a place of impreg- riable strength. It has been gradually progressing for ji number of years, and is not expected to be soon bompleted. Admission may be usually obtained by ipplicalion to the proper officers, and necessary in- brmation may be gained at the hotels. The British government intended to devote 5000/. per annum on hese works ; but as the money is sometimes delayed, hey are occasionally exposed to some interruptions. In 1827 about 78,000/. were still thought necessary to •ender the citadel defensible. Most of the works are new, though some parts ^f the old have been made to serve. They include ive or six acres, on the very summit of Cape Diamond, md extend to the verge of the precipice, 348 feet ibove the St. Lawrence. There are to be four bas- ions and one demi-bastion, a ravelin, in advance of the vvestern bastion, and other out-works. The walls are ibout 40 t'eet high, and built perpendicularly, of fine tiewn stone ; the ditch being blasted out of the solid "ock, and about 50 feet wide. After making two an- gles on the west of the gate, the new walls join the Did. The Casemates. Entering the gates and passing jehind the wall, a continued line of large rooms is discovered following the wall, built of substantial Drick work, and arched over head with such strength iS to be bomb-proof. These rooms, which are known by the technical name of Casemates, are about 50 «et lonsf. 20 wide, and 16 or 18 high, each to be 2it) ULEJJEC. lighted by a door and two small windows, looking in- ward, and pierced at the other side, with jfive loop holes each, for musketry. These loop holes are on the new plan, narrow inside, and opening with steps faced with iron, to prevent musket shot from glancing in. There are to be about 40 casemates : these are all towards the land side, the natural defence of the pre- cipice over the water being sufficiently strong to pre- vent the attempts of an enemy in that direction. The casemates will communicate with each other by fold- ing doors, which may be thrown open the whole length of the bomb-proofs, and will then furnish space for the whole garrison (from 3000 to 5000 men)" to parade at once. The Subterranean Passage leads from a little stair- case in the bastion next east of tho gate, under the ditch, to a small out-work with two or three casemated rooms. The stairs are so narrow as to admit onl;^ one person at a time, and are constructed in a spiral form, and in the neatest manner. The passage, which is about 130 feet long, has also two branches where guards might be placed to prevent intrusion. The cooking rooms, for part of the garrison, are near the second bastion ; and over the whole are to be mounted large cannon. Brock's Battery, a work of wood and earth, raised during the late war with the United States, is to be partly retained and converted into a Cavaliers' Bat- tery. This, as well as the magazines, barracks, offi- cers' quarters, &c. is within the works ; and at the corner next the river and town, is the old Cavaliers' Battery, a very heavy stone building, originally erected for the palace of the French governors of Quebec : below it, at the water's edge. Gen. Montgomery was killed. It has dark vaults, the walls are six feet thick, near the ground, and from the Telegraph on the top is one of the finest views that can be imagined : the broad surface of the St. Lawrence lies below, and stretches off far to the right and left : the whole cif,^ CAPE D^A3I0^■D. 227 of Quebec is crowded too:elher almost beneath you, while Point Levi, with its white buildings, is seen op- ' posite, with a long stretch of lofty shores. Turning ■ the eye in the opposite direction, the beautiful ridge i of land, which begins many miles down the river on the northern side, and rises with a gentle swell from the shore, covered with the richest and most varied ^ display of cultivation, offers a most delightful view over an extensive and fertile region, beautiful in form, ■ divided into innumerable portions, cultivated by a 'dense and industrious population, and scattered with j their clustered dwellings. On the left appears, among other villages, that of Lorette, with the Montreal road fornine miles almost lined with houses; and on the right that of Beaufort, occupying the ridge of the high i ground, while a little beyond it is the chasm into ' ^vhich the River Montmorency plunges, with its fa- mous cataract, just before it joins the St. Lawrence. t All the horizon in that direction, and indeed from the west to the north, and quite to the east, is broken by ranges of fine mountains, some of them near and bold ; and in other places, between them, distant blue ridges are disclosed, three, four, or five in succession. Tso- nonthuan Mountain, which has two summits and is ,2000 feet high in the north-west, is the southern ex- treme of the granite range reaching from the Labrador coast to Lake Superior. In the south and south-west, where an aperture is left, is a distant and lower range, scattered with cottages. It may, perhaps, not be ha- zarding too much to say, that no scene in Canada, or the United States, can boast of a combination of ob- jects comparable in variety and magnificence to those here presented to view. Cape Diamond derives its name from the beautiful little rock-crystals, which are found in veins of white crystalized limestone, disseminated in the black lime- stone blasted out for the works. The quartz stones used in the walls are very fine, and are brought from ^bree miles above the city. Of those prepared for 2,2S uuEJ5E<;. comer stones of a bastion, near the old governui .! house, are homogeneous masses of granular quartz, weighing 1^ or 2 tons, or even more. Some of the cr^^stals are perfect and brilliant, though small. There is a long staircase of many steps, leading i from this elevated position down to the Lower Town j by which it was originally intended to draw up heavy articles. The Plains of xIbraham. This interesting tract of ground, the field where Gen. Wolfe succeeded, by a bold and decisive blow, in capturing the city of Quebec in 1759, lies at only , about the distance of a mile, and should not be ne- \ glected. Indeed it would be found amply to repay j trie trouble, to make a much longer excursion in that ' direction, as the road is fine and the country inte- * After the battle of :JIontmoiency, while the English fleet lay up tlie river, at one o'clock in the night of September 12lh, 1759, Geu. Wolfe quietly transported his troops from the fleet into the boats, and cautiously passed down the river. He intended to land two or throe miles above Cape Diamond, and get possession of the Heights of Abraham : but was drifted down so rapidly that he pat-scd the place without discovering it, and then resolved to attempt a landing at Wolfe's Co\ e, just above the city. The shore is bold, and the rocks so high and steep, that only a few sentinels were posted along the pre( ipices and the margin. This despe- rate enterprise, however, did not dismuraue the loader or his troops; but a'! hour before daybreak they had cfi"octed their landing, and commenced the arduous ascent by a narrow, broken path, at the top of which was stationed a captain's guard. As fast as the English reached the summit they formed on the level jilain. At ten o'clock Montcalm arrived from above, and a battle was fought, which decided the fate of Canada Montcalm staiioned ir)00 sharp ehooters in front but the British coolly stood their ground till the French were within 40 yards, when they opened their fire, and soon afterward terminated the en'jagement with their bayonets. The place where the greatest carnage Avas n)ade, is near the river's bank, whore the English left was closely eniraged with the French right. 'I'he action lasted two hours, and in it both chiefs received their mortal wounds. Gen. Wolfe was shot in two or three places. When hardly any signs of life remained , news was brought that the dayjiad declsned for the Biiti^h : "ThPfli" said he, " I die content," WOLFE S COVE. 2Qd I Passing out at St. Louis's Gate, you observe a number of handsome dwellings and gardens, until you get some distance beyond the towers, when you turn into the Race Course on the left side of jtbe road. The foundation of a monument to Wolfe and Montcalm was laid in the city in 1827. The spot where Gen. Wolfe fell is near the corner of the fenced field, off towards the river. A little east of the place, is the remnant of a breastwork, with several angles, marked out by bushes, and commanding a fine view. The British line was first formed across the plain, and jran near the house by the road, and the battle was ••fought principally on that ground. i The Plains of Abraham are about a quarter of a imile in breadth, extending a great distance towards the west, with a gentle slope on each side, and so 'smooth as to otfer an admirable field for the manoeu- ' vring and display of troops. From the old breast- , work, not only this ground is overlooked, but the ship- I ping in Wolfe's Cove, he opposite shore, the river to the next turn, &c. The spot appears, indeed, infe- rior in elevation only to Cape Diamond and the middle tower. Wolfe's Cove is about a mile further west, or half a mile beyond the large house seen near the river's bank. A branch of the road leads off to it from the left, and descends to the shore by a passage cut out long since the time of Gen. Wolfe, as the cove is now a great deposite for lumber. The course which he followed up the bank, lay along the channel of a little brook, which leads off to ^,he right, while the road goes straight up the bank. 230 QL'EBEC Sjege of Quebec in 1773. The scenes we have thus briefly recalled are not the only ones of a military character of which this commanding and delightful plain has been the theatre. In 1775, soon after the commencement of the Revo- lution, the Continental Congress prepared an expedi- tion against Canada. It consisted of two divisions : one under Gen. Montgomery came down Lake Cham- plain and took St. John's, Chambly, Sorel, Three Rivers, and then proceeded down the St. Lawrence to this place. The other, under Gen. Arnold, took the route through the wilderness of Maine for Quebec. Arnold had 10 companies of infantr)^ besides 3 of riflemen, and one of artillery, with a few volunteers. They proceeded up the Kennebeck, but suffered so much from fatigue and scarcity that many fell sick, and one division returned. The remainder, however, reached Point Levi on the 9th of November, and alarmed the city. The batteaux had been removed, and the strong wind detained them from crossing, after they had been supplied by the Canadians. The Eng- lish frigate Lizard and several other vessels were also in the river. He at length, however, effected a land- ing a little above Wolfe's Cove, and marching down the shore climbed up the rocks at that place, and sur- rounded the city without effect. He then retired 20 miles to Pointe aux Trembles, and waited for Gen. Montgomery, who arrived, after great trials, Dec. 1st. with about 300 men. The two generals afterward marched to Quebec, and planting their mortars on the snow and ice, fired into the town with little effect. The small pox broke out, and the cold was severe ; but the town was at tacked at four points at once, in a snow storm, without success. Montgomery was killed, on the shore, about 100 yards from the foot of the railway, under Cape ROAil TO JJEAUFORT. 231 Diamond. One detachment was taken, and Arnold retired three miles and intrenched himself. I The Falls of Montmorency. Hire a coach, a gig, a caleche or a saddle horse, and 'iset out, if possible, early in the morning. In a caleche, ?ou will have the advantage of a guide in your driver. ass through the Palace gate and a village divided ifrom Quebec only by the wall, cross the bridge over iSt. Charles's river, which forms a regular serpentine, :'and enter the beautiful cultivated plain beyond. A s Convent and hospital are seen about a mile on the left, and a handsome succession of fields is observed !|on both sides, divided by low palings. At the dis- Itance of a mile and a half the road passes several i country houses. Riding down the coast, at a considerable elevation from the river, many fine views are presented of the opposite banks, the isle of Orleans, the mountains of St. Anne and Tourmente down the river. The dwel- lings are small,, and the inhabitants poor and numerous. The channel south of the isle of Orleans is the only one used by ships for some years past, but the northern has been surveyed recently. The latter is that by which Admiral Saguenay's fleet came up with Wolfe's I army. I Beaufort is a village principally composed of such buildings, stretching for a great distance along the road. Just before entering it, some large mills are seen on the right, standing on a stream which crosses the path, and beyond there is a natural pavement formed of the horizontal rock. There is a small church here, with three steeples, prettily situated on the river's bank, with a patch of grass and trees around it ; but it contains nothing worthy of particular attention. On approaching the Montmorency, the road turns to i232 QUEBEt, the left, and then to the right, on an extensive, smootl], and gradual ascent, part of which was the field of a bloody slaughter, suffered by a division of Gen. Wolfe's army, in 1759, a short time previous to his battle on the Heights of Abraham. The position of the armies will be more easiJy understood on reaching the oppo- site side of the river : it is therefore sufficient to re- mark here, that the French lines were bounded by the nearer bank, as the remains of their intrenchments on the left still testify ; and that the British came up from the shore of the St. Lav\rence on the right, to attack two of their nearest batteries, before the second of which they were cut to pieces. Dismounting in a little wood and fastening the horses, you may proceed along the precipitous bank of the Montmorency, by a footpath, to see the falls from this side. As it is a difficult way, and the view more fine and unobstructed from the opposite side, it is hardly worth the trouble, unless you have plenty ol time. You have to clamber rocks, pass down a long ladder, and stand on the verge of an abyss into which the cataract dashes. Water is drawn off here in a wooden race, for the supi ly of Mr. PattersoiVs great saw-mills, which are worthj^ of being visited. It is better, therefore, to follow the road on foot, to cross the bridge f where you pay a sous), and enter- ing the fields on the right, follow down the course of the river. There are several fine points of view, from which the falls appear to grerit advantage ; but on account of the height and steepness of the banks, it is necessary to descend towards the St. Lawrence, j and then return by the margin, to obtain a sight of, them from below. ^ i On the fine elevated point formed by the junction of the two rivers, and commanding an unobstructed i view upon the St. Lawrence for many miles up and [ down, with several lofty mountains below, the isle of Orleans opposite, (Quebec above, and the cataract close 9t hand, the British here took a strong position in July, FALLS OF MOIsTMOllEiVCY . 23o H769; and from this place made a bold, but unsuc- .oessful attempt against their enemies on the opposite side. The remains of their intrenchments are plainly- visible under our feet. The natural and ariificial Istrens^th of the city combined, was enough, even in 'those days, to discourage any attempt against it from Hhe water ; and in order to prevent an approach by • land, the French occupied two strong positions, at a distance above and below it : the former at Sillery [River, the other at the Montmorency. Wolfe here made a first, but unsuccessful attempt ; and afterward, hy a still more desperate blow, accomplished his wishes at the plains of Abraham. For an account of J the battle of Montmorency, wh refer to the note.* iThe best view of the cataract is to be enjoyed from ithe spur of the rock, which projects from the eastern 5 shore ; but the spray, which keeps the surface covered ivvith a coat of green, will drench the clothes in a few ininutes. The height of the fall is said to be 240 feet ; and * Battle of Montmorency. When Gen. Wolfe came to operate against Quebec in June, 1759, he )0sted his army on the island of Orleans while the fleet blockaded the lort. At the end of that month General Monckton was sent over to I'oint Levi, and establislied liimself there, whence he was able to fire ipon the city. Above the river Montmorency, the landing was pro- ected by tlie Marquis de Montcalm. Gen. Wolfe landed his troops at lie moulli of tlie Montmorency during the night of July 31st, and erected X battery on the ;>recipice north-east of the falls, the remains of which ire to be seen. The Prencli were intrenched along tne opposite bank ; irid on the 31st of July, Gen. Wolfe sent his troops to ford tiie Mont- norency below tlie falls, to storm their works. Some of Gen. Monckton 's brce from Point Levi in crossing with boats got aground, and difficulty msued ; but the landing was made in the afternoon on the beach to the ight of the saw-mil!s. They came hov/ever too late ; for the thirteen grenadier companies, with20(i Americans, whohadlanded before, refused o wait or to foiin, as had been intended, in four columns, but marched iumultuously round the rock, and rushed up hill in a mass towa-ds the French works, at some distance back from the old redoubt on the point, 'vhich had been deserted. A warm fire however was directed against; them, which cut down about 500 men, and they were obliged to retreat CO the redoubt, whence they were ordered back to the beach to form, I The enterprise wus then intfjiriipted bv a severe storm, and finally iftandoned. :i34 ' ciUEBEC. the banks on both sides below form a precipitous and frightful precipice, of rather a curving form, of bare, sharp, slaty rock, whose strata incline from north to south, and the perpendicular veins run nearly N. W. and S. E. At low water the Montmorency may be forded, with some caution, where it was passed by the British troops ; but the tide rises fast and high.* The Saw-Mills, built by Mr. Patterson, are situated behind the western shore of the Montmorency. They are ail contained in one large building, where the wa- ter enters at the third story in three channels, moving six gates in the second story, and five in the first. These gates are collections of saws, containing 6 or 8 > each, which cut up whole logs into planks or boards at once. The rafts of timber are stopped above the mill, taken apart, and thus floated down by a little canal, whence they are drawn up by machinery, several logs being bound together by a chain, and laid before the saws. Vast quantities of sawn lumber are generally to be seen here on the wharves, ready for shipping. The mill contains 80 single saws, besides 5 circular ones, which perform their work with great rapidity. The Baron Renfrew, an immense timber ship, was launched from the island of Orleans in 1825. It wa- a built vessel, although of a rude const' uction. It wa^ 305 feet in length, 60 feet beam, depth of hold 35 feet, from the keel to the tafFrail 50, bowsprit 60 feet, main- mast above deck, 75 ; whole, 100 ; main yard 72. She was 14 feet between decks ; the tiller was 28 feet long ; chain cable 120 fathoms 2: inch iron ; the anchor? weighed 75 and 90 cwt., and her measurement wa-^ 5,282 tons. She was loaded with timber in bulk, and ^ carried above 6000 tons of it ; but was lost on the coast of France. * A survey was made, in 1829, of the country in the rear of theexlstinfi;' settlements and grants between Quebec and the St. Maurice: the first ^■reat rocky mountainous barrier is at a distance of about tive-and-twenty loa^w from the St. Lawrence. In this space arc found three grent ROUTE niOJI QUEBEC TO EOSTOX. The Village op Lorette jmay be taken in the way returning from Montmorency, 'if there should be time enough remaining (which is barely possible), and the ride along the high ridge leading in that direction, will be found delightful. 'Lorette is an Indian village, with a Catholic churchj and the stranger may furnish himself with moccasins, belts, pipes, &c. I Route from (Quebec to Boston. It is proposed, by the I state of Maine, to open a road from Hallowell up the course of the Kennebeck river, to the Canada line near Qijebec. There is a communication kept up to 'iORie extent between the two places, and considerable 'numbers of cattle are driven every year that way; 'but for a great distance it is necessary to pass through a wilderness, and in consequence of the want of iinhabitants, there is no shelter to be found for man or I beast, for several days' journeys. The names and distances of the principal places on this \\ ild and un- fiequented route, are given below. When the pro- posed road shall have been opened, it will be fomid a iconvenient way to New-England, for those who do not |'wi!«h to return by Montreal, and will become peopled land frequently travelled. This is the route by which jGen. Arnold approached Q,uebtc in 1775. ' Q,uebec to the Chaudiere, or 'Riviere du Loup 60 miles. valJeys, that of the Jacques Cavtier, of tlie St. Anne, and of the Batiscan dveis. The seltleinoms of Sionehain, Valcaitier, and Fossanibault lie in the first valiej'; the other two valleys are of considtrable extent, and contain a large quantity of cultivable lands of good quality. I'hese valleys are separated from each other by rocky highlands. On traversing the great barrier at the head waters of the Jacques Cartier river, we I reach at the distance pf half a mile the head waters of the Chicotimi 1 river, which empties itself at the port of that name. This river is well I *«own to the Lorette Indians, who represent tlic country through whicl\ it passes as altogether uns'isceptlbic of culture Moose River .......... 3T 97 Forks of the Kennebeck 24 121 Upper settlement on do 12 133 HalJowell 67 200 Boston 170 370 Another route along the Penobscot is also to be sur- veyed by the authority of the state of Maine. Land route from Quebec to Montreal. Upper road. (The pleasanter.) 1st post Lorette, 16 mile>. 2d Jacques Cartier, 16 od Deschambeaux, 16 4th St. Anne, 16 5th Batiscamp, 8 6th Champjain, 9 7th ' Aux Cayes, 8 8th Trois Rivieres, ^ . 6 Lorn'cr Road. 1st post, Cape Rouge, .' 9d St. Augustine, 5» 3d Fointe aux Trembles, .... 8 4th Ecureil, 9 5th Cape Sante, 9 (Garneau's inn, called ^'the Three Sisiei^s,'' is excellent.) 6th Deschambeaux, &c 8 mile?. Under the administration of Gov. Craig, in Canada,' a road w^as opened between this province and the pre- sent territory of Maine; and the inhabitants of the states, continuing it, a stage coach actually ran from Q,ueber to Boston, which is 270 miles distant. It was afterward neglected; and the road became so muchovergrowi'- tbat it would require clearing again to be useful. ROUTES FROM QUEBEC. iloAD FROM Quebec to Montreal. , For remarks on the advantages of travelling by land !on the St. Lawrence, compared with those offered by the steamboats, see page 211, recollectinii: that the passage in the latter is several hours longer up the river than down. The country lor some miles above {Quebec is more varied in its surface, than that below 'Montreal ; and caleches and gigs may be obtained here as well as there. It is to be hoped that regular stage coaches will soon be established on the road. On page 236 is an enumeration of the villages and best iinns. The former are generally nine miles apart, but the distances are particularized. I Steamboat. Engage an early passage to Montreal. jln 1828, the shortest passage ever known was made in a steamboat to Montreal, in about 23. hours. Leaving the dock, you pass under Cape Diamond, nearly at the foot of which General Montgomery was killed in 1775. i Wolfe's Cove is about a mile beyond. See page 229. I For the other places along the St. Lawrence, see jlhe map, and the notices of them in the route from [Montreal t(» Quebec. Rapids of Richelieu, page 218. ' Three Rivers, page 217. ' Lake St. Peter, page 216. William Heni^, or Sorel, page 215. Montreal, page 199. See the route from Montreal to Lake Ontario and Niagara. 13S ROUTE VUOU CAJSADA. From Montreal to Lake Champlain, and THE United States. Those who are returning by this route, may be ad- vised to cross to Longeuii instead of La Prairie, and go to St. John's by the way of Ctjannbly. The distance is nearly the same, the passage of he river is effected in a good horseboat, the country is much finer and better cultivated, and the old casfle or tower of Chambly is of some interest for its history. It will be necessary, however, to make particular arrangements for a carriage, and to take every precaution to arrive at St. John's in season for the steamboat. From Mon- treal to Longueil 3 miles, Longueil to Chambly l-L thence to St. John's 15. Chambly. This is a small village. Near the middle of it stands the old fort, on a point, surrounded by a ditch. It is an old square building, perhaps 180 feet on each side, with bastions at the corners, but incapable of withstanding heavy cannon. This fort was taken by Majors Brown and Livingston, in 1755, who were sent out with a strong detachment by (.en. Montgomery, while he was besieging St. John's. The garrison, being very feeble, surrendered. St. John's : see page 1 94. In the last war the British had 6000 men hutted here for a year and a half. Passage from St. John's to Whitehall. Four steamboats run from St. John's to Whitehall. They go every day. St. John's. Isle aux Nojx ..... 10 mile? PASSAGE UP LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 239 Rouse's Point 11 miles. Ohazy 12 Plattsburgh 15 Port Kent 8 'Burlington* 10 Charlotte, Essex 15 Port Clinton 10 ; Dalliba's Works J ^ 9 Port Henry, S Chimney Point 12 ; Ticonderoga 15 I Whitehall 25 For the principal places on the lake, see the Index. At the time when Gen. St. Clair evacuated Ticon- i deroga, in 1777, the following arrangements were made for retreat. The baggage, hospital furniture, sick, park of artillery, stores, and provisions, embarked ! under Colonel Long, under strong convoy, in 200 bat- teaux and five armed galleys. The main army went via Castleton, with St. Clair at the head and Col. Francis in the rear, and the general rendezvous was at Ske'nesborough (Whitehall.) A house which took fire on Mount Independence attracted the attention of the British, who soon began the pursuit. Gen. Frazer, with grenadiers and light troops, with Reidesel behind him. Followed by land ; while IBurgoyne cut through the boom and bridge, and sailed up Wood Creek. His gun-boats and ships overtook the American flotilla, took two galleys, blew up three, and the Americans set rire to the rest and fled on to Fort Anne. On leaving Ticonderoga, the lake soon becomes much narrower. At about nine miles distance, the Scotch Farms dre seen on the western shore. They are in the township of Putnam, and present an aspect less wild than most of the surrounding scenes. Looking back on Ticonderoga from this place, '*' From this town tlipre is a fmc road to Boston. 240 ROUTE FEQ3I CANADA. Mount Defiance appears at about nine miles distance. It descends on the left to the Scotch Farms, which are principally cleared land, and is a good landmark. Beyond it is another mountain sloping like it. Ticon- deroga here appears to close up the passage of the lake, with Sword's Point on the left. Thk Four Channels. Fourteen miles from Whitehall, the lake suddenly contracts itself into four narrow passages, between two ranges of mountains, which in some places present per- pendicular precipices ; and its bed, at low water, ap- pears almost entirely occupied by a little meadow of the brightest gre^^n, through which the channels wind with beautiful serpentines. The scene is highly pic- turesque, the rocky points on both sides being so abrupt as to seem as if forcibly parted by an earth- quake, or a very swift and powerful stream. Every distant object is entirely shut out, and the banks pre- sent a strikin;i: aspect of wildness and seclusion. Some distance beyond, where the creek enters a small tract of level ground, it passes between two remarkable rocks, with precipitous banks like walls, about 50 feet high, like great natural bastions erected to guard the straits. A succession of beautiful little serpentines are passed, with ragged precipices, and many little patches of level ground on the margin of the water; while on the eastern side the tow path accompanies the bank. South Bay opens to the south, and runs down five miles between high mountains. Here the creek takes a sudden turn to the east, communicating with the bay by a little channel sometimes scarcely 20 yards across. General Dieskau took this route with his army, in going towards Fort Edward, in 175,'^. WHITEHALL. 241 Deer are sometimes seen here in passing. On the : eastern side of the bay, on the mountain, is a natural • ice-house about four miles oflf. (A precipice on the east is a good mark of the ap- I proach to South Bay, in going up.) . The DevWs Pulpit is a singular cavity in the face of a bare precipice on the eastern side of the creek, at a considerable elevation, in the form of a wedge, and so regular as to seem a work of art, although probably made by the falling of a mass of the rock. \ Distant mountains open to the view in front, as we j proceed, with ranges of willows on the shore. ' The Elbow is a narrow part of the creek, with two short turns, through which the passage requires a very l^xact helm. I East Bay ! strikes off at the first bend, and makes up five miles, along a romantic country. A sugar-loaf hill will be observed at a little distance on the right, which rises above Whitehall, and makes the approach to that place quite picturesque. WHITEHALL. I On the top of a rock over the harbour was formerly I a battery, and in the town a blockhouse. Numerous ; boats and great quantities of lumber are usually seen here, as the Champlain or Northern canal begins at the bridge, where are two locks, with a sluiceway, ' and a rocky channel. Inns. — Rock's and W^ing's. The heights at this place were occupied by Bur- goyne's right wing, while he was preparing to march towards Saratoga ; his centre was formed by Gen. ', Frazer; the Brunswickers, on the left, rested on the I river of Castleton ; and the Hessians were at the head of East Bay. X2 242 ROUTE FROM CANADA. Roads. —StSige coaches go south, on the arrival of the steamboat in two directions : one on each side of Wood Creek and the Hudson river. That on the west side is recommended to those who are going directly on to Albany, as it passes along the route of the Cham- plain canal, by the " Surrender Ground," and near the "Battle Ground of Beinis's Heights." Coaches also go to the Spring-s. The 5«urvey of a canal route from Rutland to White- hall, N. Y. gives a descent of 211 feet, and an ascent of 274 — the distance is 24 ' miles. The height of land is west of Poultney river, 7 miles from Whitehall. Road to Boston, 178 m. through Walpole : See " Indexy To Albany, on the eastern side of the Hudson^ 79 wi. West Granville 11 miles. East Granville*" 3 Hebron 9 Salem 8 Cambridge 16 Pittstown 13 Lansingburgh 10 * Saddle Mountain, whose lofty ridie will be seen from almost every point in this vicinity, is said to be 4,000 feet above the ocean, and 2,800 feel higher than the site of Williams' College. It derives its name from its resemblance to a riding saddle. Snow lies late upon its top, where the climate is so cold as to admit only a stinted growth to the spruce, yellow birch, beech, fir, mountain ash, and other trees which are there to be found. Vegetation is there more than a month behind the valleys below. An excursion to the summit is not very difficult, and affords fine views. The Catskill, Watchusett, Monadnoc, and Mount Holyoke are visible. A Mineral Spring is situated about U miles north of the College in Wil- liamstown, and a few hundred yards east of the Albany road! I is a tepid water and resembles that of New-Iiebancm — temperature 75 Fah- renheit. Mr. West's house affords accommodations, baths, &c. to lodger? and the spring has proved beneficial in cut aneon? casec. iiOAD FROM WHITEHALL TO ALBANY. 24S r Troy . 3 (seepage 50) ! Albany 6 (see p. 39 & 46) ]To Albany, on the west side of the Hudson^ 68 m. Fort Anne 12 < Fort Edward 9 'Here a coach passes to Saratoga Springs. 1 Fort Miller 8 ' Schiiylersville 6 fsee pasre 1^9) j British Lines 7 (see page 136) I Passing Bemis^s Heights, Stillwater 8 Borough 3 Waterford 8^ New Mohawk Bridge . . . 1 (see p. 54 &z; 129) I The road accompanies the course of Wood Creek, I which is dammed and used for a canal, to which its narrowness and depth give it a strong resemblance. This creek is famous in the history of the operations in this region during the Revolutionary and French wars ; and after repeated exertions to dear it of the logs, &c., by which it was obstructed, it bore the troops sent against Canada, &,c., which often passed by this route, from the days of Queen Anne. The scenery is agreeable, though rough ; and there is little cultiva- tion off the road Half a mile north of the village of Fort Anne, Wood Creek makes an elbow to a ledsje of rocks, so near that there is but little space for the road between. Here Col. Sterry was overtaken, in the retreat from Ticonderoga, in 1777, by Burgoyne's troops, and an engagement took place, memorials of which are occa- sionally found in the soil to this day. A little south, on the brow of the hill, a quarter of a mile from the stage house, stood Fort Anne, in the Revolution. The old fort of the same name, built many years previously, and known in the French wars, was about 244 ROUTE FI103I CANADA. half a mile south of the village, on a gentle eminence a little east of the road, u here some remains of the old intrenchments are still to be seen. The remains of Burgoyne^s Road beain about two miles south of Fort Anne, at the foot of a hill, and are traced about three-fourths of a mile, near the present road to a wood. It was formed of logs, and found necessary, to render the country passable with his cannons and bnggage wagons. 'S'he labour necessary for its fonriatioji, superadded to that of clearing Wood Creek of the obstructions which Ge.n. Schuyler had thrown into it after the retreat of the Americans, was one great cause of the delay of the British army, on this part of the road — a delay which allowed the people time to resume their spirits, and the officers to lay plans, obtain resources, and prepare for the san- guinary scenes at Bemis's Heights and the surrender at Saratoga. French Mountain opens to view a little beyond, with a succession of high grounds in the direction of South Bay, Lake George, &,c. About half a mile above Fort Edward, stands an old tree, which marks the place where was perpetrated The Murder of Miss M*Crea. Miss M'Crea lived in the village of Fort Edward. In the Revolutionary war, a young man named Jones, to whom she was betrothed, having attached himself to the English cause, and joined their threes in Canada, was invested with a captain's command in Gen. Bur- goyne's army. After the retreat of the Americans from the lake, and while the British were approaching, he sent a party of Indians to Fort Edward to bring his intended bride to him, that he might secure her safety. She was very unwilling to proceed with her savage conducters on the road towards Fort Anne ; and had gone only half a mile when the Indians stopped to drink at a spring which still flows by the i JBAKEli S FALL*. 245 moY side. While here they were met by another party J )f Indians despatched to hasten them on. Those who :ame last attempted to take her under their charge ; out the others, being determined not to give her up Sjilive, bound her to a tree that is yet standing near the 1 spring, and shot her dead with their muskets. Locks [){ her hair were borne to her lover to prove that the ii ndians had performed what they considered their duty ^0 their employer. i This story rang through the country ; and it was f'eported that Gen. Burgoyne encouraged, or, at least, ijjermitted the murder. In indignant terms he denied phe charge ; and there appears no probability that he 5iad the least knovledge of it. He, however, was justly chargeable with a great offence against humanity, n bringing tribes of savages in his train, whose barba- rity he could never be sure of restraining. j Fort Edward. This village was built in the neighbourhood of a brt raised during the war of 1755, for the defence of his point of the river. It was first called Fort Lyman ifter Gen. Lyman, of whom we have already had {>ccasion to make honourable mention at Lake George. This spot was formerly called the First Carrying j ■'lace, being the point where, in the expeditions against Janada,the troops, stores, &c., were landed and taken ]0 Wood Creek, a distance of 12 miles, where they ;-vere again embarked. Baker's Falls, at Sandy Hill, ire worthy of particular attention, and are seen to peat advantage from some parts of the bank. The ^hole descent of the river at this place is about 75 ieet. 246 NEW-YORK TO ?fEW-ENGLANl), Fort Miller. The viJlag'e still retains the name of a fort erected, on the west side of the river, in former times. It was a work of insignificant size, situated on the bank and near Miller's Falls. The descent of the river here is rapid, and over a broken channel. The falls were formerly considered: impassable with safety, until Gen. Putnam performed it while stationed at Fort Miller, in the French war. The Great Dam. Above Fort Edward, a large and expensive dam has been built across the river, and a canal cut along the! bank to open a passage for boats. [The dam is 900 feet long.] [P'or places on any route selected by the traveller, see the Index.] TOUR OF NEW-ENGLAND. To Travellers ^oing Eastward Jrom New-York. It is recommended to the stranger who is travelling* eastward to see the couulry, to determine on some plan for his journey before setting out. A stage coach* * The coach sets off for New-IIaven every morniiiff at 8 o'clock, fiom Jaques's sia^e (»ffi •»', in Cortiaiult-stiet t, [•ast^in? thvougli Harlain on Manhattan Island, West Chester, Kas! Cheste:. Niw Roclielle, Man)a ronec, and Rye, in the staie of New- York ; and G ponwich, Stamford, Darien, Norwalk, Fairfield, Bridgeport, Stratford, MiUord, and Orange, in Connecticut. In Harlffini, the road passes near the East river, and gives a view of Hell Gate. /^''vond Morris?ania. the estate and manpion of the Hon. Gov. Morris 1 1 EAST lilVEli. 2 IT I wes every morning* to Connecticut, and onward; but ' ihis is not the most agreeable route. Steamboats go Tora New York to the following places on the northern , shore of Long Island Sound : Norwalk, Stamford, i: Stratford, New-Haven, Connecticut river (and up that ?:o Hartford), New-London (and Norwich), Newport ^vand Providence). EAST RIVER. Leaving iVew-York, in any of the East river steam- ;i3oats, the traveller has Brooklyn on the right (now he third town for size in the state, and strictly a sub- irb of the capital). The Navy Fa m, just beyond. I The Railway, for ships, is above, on the west side. een on the right : one of the finest for tastefiilness and extent in this I lart of the country. (See Battle of White Plains, page 22.) J In the town of Horseneck, 33 milts ficini New- York, is a steep hiJl I descending towards the north, down wnich General Piit'iam once effected I :is escape from several British officers aiid soldiers during the revolu- j lonary war, when returning from a scout. He drove his horse hastily I owri the rocky hill side, a little east of the road, and near tlie fence, and I aved .so much distance as to elude his pursuers. West Chester, and the country about it, were at that period neutral round : and Mr. Cooper, the novelist, has made them the scene of his lopnlar tale — "The Spy." In the town of Fairfield, 53 miles from New- York, a mile or two be- ire reaching the village, is a low, level piece of ground, on die right- ;and side of the road, which was formerly an ainiost impenetrable wanip, and, at an early period of our history, was the scene of a bioody laughter. Ft was hither that the remains of a powerful and lerrible lation of Indians, called Pequods, having fled from tlieir country about Jew-Londnn and Groton, after the destruction of tlieir fort at Mystic y Capt. Mason, in 1R36, were either killed or taken captive. This was heir last ajid total defeat, aad extiiguished their name as a nation, iuch of the ground has been cleared in modern times ; and some relics •ave been found to confi'-m the traditions of the neighbourhood. This place was burned by the British in the Revolution. Danbai^', an aland town, was also burned, with extensive public stores, and an action •/as fought in which Gen. Wooster fell. On the east side of Housatonnuc, or Strat- The old Penitentiary and Fever Hospital are ju^ above, on the shoie. 4 BlackweWs Island. — The new Penitentiary has beeii erected on this itisulated spot, which offers many ad*- vantages for such an institution. The building is about 1000 feet from the south end of llie island. Its foun- dation, which is solid rock, is about 20 feet above high water mark. The building, which is 200 feet in length by 50 in breadth, will contain 240 cells, each 3- ieet by 7, and separated by a partition 2 feet thick. Opposite eacl) cell there is an aperture in the outer wall, through which the inmate will receive a suffi- ciency of fresh air. The interior is upon the plan of the State Prison at Singsing, with the exception that the galleiy around the cells is of iron instead of wood, the ascent to which is by a geometrical staircase. The doors to the cells are all of iron — indeed, the only wood in the building is in the roof, which may even be burned off without the least danger to the rest o^ the building. The stone of which the walls and floort are made, is the common gneiss, and was all quarried on the island and hewed by the convicts. The lime used in constructing the prison, was also burned on thf island. Four sentinels are placed on elevated platlorm in different parts of the island, who are allowed m intercourse either by word or sign wit he prisoners They are marched rank and file to their meals in i' temporaiy building prepared lor the purpose, when they also dispose themselves lor sleep at the word ol command, and sentinels march between their rank^ during the night. No spiritous liquor is allowed to b( brought upon the island. Four excellent springs C water afford them drink. The island is 1[ njiles in length and about 600 fee in width, and will yield abundance of vegetables. F was the design of the Corporation in purchasing Ihi island, to make it the seat of punishment in all it forms. At the extremity of the island, ojiposite lh( Fenitentiai-v. will he another for femal'^'; — and between SEVV-ifAVES. ^49 this and the overseers house on each side, will be two other buildings for vagrants of both sexes. At Hell Gate^ numerous objects present themselves on entering the bay. On the distant high ground, west, is seen the Lunatic Asylum ; a white blockhouse on the hill on the east side ; below it, an old fort by the water ; and a number of handsome country houses along the green shore on the left. The first of these is Commodore Chauncey's, next, Mr. Schermerhorn'sy then, Messrs. Prime's, Astor's, &c. The surface of the river is broken by several rocks, and bj- the agitation of the water, particularly at the whirl called the Great Pot, a little north of the fort, and the rapid current on the opposite shore known by the name of the Hog's Back. In coming from the north, almost the first view of New- York is here presented, between the western shore and Blackwell's Island, with a shot tower on the right. New-Havek. Toniine Hotel, Stage House (Sione^s). Several pri- vate boarding-houses. This is decidedly one of the most beautiful towns in the United States. The soil is not very good, and the situation is low ; the town (or rather city) is laid out in squares, with straight and broad streets, and the elevated ground in the neigii- bourhood renders the approach very fine from almost every direction. It stands at the head of a spacious bay, with a lighthouse on the eastern point, a small fort on the shore, another on Prospect Hill, and two Bluffs, called East and West Rocks, 2 or 3 miles behind the town. A more distant peak is seen between them, which is Mount Carmel. The long wharf is three quarters of a mile in length. The steamboats stop at the bridge, where carriages will be found in waiting to take travellers to the centre of the town, which is ?nore than a mile distant. ^^u the shore, near the bridge, is a large building in Y " 2aU ROUTE 1?{ CONI^ECTICUT. tended for a steamboat hotel, but now occupied aa a: School for the education of Boys, by the Messrs. » Dvvight. The system resembles that of the Round Hill School at Northampton. The streets of the town ► are regular and pleasant, forming squares, one of which is a green surrounded by rows of elms, with three • churches and the new State House in the middle, and the College buildings occupying the western side, pre- ; senting a scene probably not equalled by any town of this size in the United States. The abundance of fine i trees, the neatness and beauty of the dwellings, the good society of the place, and the distinguished posi- , tion it holds as a seat of learning, render New-Haven the resort of a great number of strangers during the . travelling season, and the temporary residence of not a few. Connecticut School Fund. — This fund now amounts •. to $1,882,251, or nearly two millions of dollars. By, means of this fund, the government of the state is enabled annually to return to the citizens nearly twice the amount withdrawn in taxes. It enables parents to educate their children almost gratuitously. There is a Hopkins's Gram tnar School in the town,' and a number of Boarding Schools for young ladies,, with instructers in every branch of useful and orna- mental education. A flourishing Lancasterian School in this place contains about 200 boys. Yale College. — This institution, however, is the prin- cipal object which will attract the attention of the , stranger. It was founded in 1701, and first located at Killingworth, then removed to Saybrook, and after a few years permanently fixed in this town.* The first building was of wood, and stood near the corner of; College and Chapel-streets. There are now four buildings for students, each containing 32 rooms ; a , Chapel, with a Philosophical chamber and apparatus, "*• The expense of tuition, room,&:c. for a year, is about f 50— pf boani in Comraons, about .¥7r» lALE COLLEGE. !^5 1 an Observatory and a Lyceum, with recitation rooms and the library. In the rear are the Gymnastic appa- ratus, the Commons Hall, in a small building with the splendid Mineralogical Cabinet above, which is the 'finest collection of the kind in the United States, lately ■purchased from Colonel Gibbs of New-York. In another building is the Chemical Laboratory, where Professor Silliman delivers his lectures. The insti- tution contained, in 1829, 496 students, distributed as follows : — Theological Students, 'i9 ; Law Students, 21; Medical Students, 61; Resident Graduates, 6 ; Seniors, 71; Juniors, 87 ; Sophomores, 95 ; Freshmen, 106. An Observatory has recently been erected, after the model of the Tower of the Winds at Athens, and in like manner surmounted with a Triton. Next north of the College is the house of President Day, and the professors have pleasant residences in the town. The new State House and the churches on the green, present a remarkably fine appearance ; with the College buildings and numerous elegant houses around it. The Medical Institution is at the north end of Col- lege-street. Like many other buildings in the place, it is of rough stone, covered with plaster. The canal passes just in the rear. In 1826 there were 336 students who received de- grees in all the colleges of New-England. The number of students in all the Medical Schools in the United States in that year was about 1700. Colleges in New-England. — There were 1399 stu- dents in ail the New-England Colleges in 1827, of whom 130 belonged to Maine, 131 to New-Hampshire, 146 from Vermont, 431 from Massachusetts, and 196 from Connecticut. [According to the Registers of the several States, there are in New-England, exclusive of Rhode Island, 1,633 ministers of the Gospel, viz. 862 Congrega- tjonalists, 605 Baptists, 167 Methodists, 72 Rpisco- 252 ROUTE IN CONHECTieUT. palians, 15 Presbyterians, 85 Freewill Baptists, 24 Universalists, and 6 Christ-ians. Of these 228 are in Maine, 241 in New-Hampshire, 284 in Vermont, 497 in Massachusetts, and 383 in Connecticut. In propor- tion to the population, the ministers of all denomina- tions are, in New-Hampshire, as 1 to 1,013 ; in Massa- chusetts, as 1 to 1,052 ; in Connecticut, as 1 to 7 18 ; in Vermont, as 1 to 830. Of the Congregational ministers, 101 are in Maine, 111 are in New-Hampshire, 114 in Vermont, 352 in Massachusetts, and 184 in ConneC' ticut ; being: to the whole population respectively, as 1 to 2,952 ; 1 to 2,199 ; 1 to 2,068 ; 1 to 1,486 ; and 1 to 1,495. It should be noticed, however, that the Registers are not perfectly accurate, and that we are obliged to compare the population in 1820 with the number of ministers in 1827. There are thought to be about 10,000 schoolmasters in New-England. The militia of Connecticut, officers and privates, amount to about 28,000 men.] A General Hospital Society for the state of Connec- ticut was founded in 1828 ; and the building is to be erected in New-Haven. The JVew Burying Ground is situated opposite the Medical Institution, and occupies a large extent of land, partly planted with poplars, and containing a great number of beautiful ornaments, of different de- signs. It is considered the most beautiful cemetery in this country. The Old Burying Ground was in the middle of the green, in the rear of the Centre Church, and there are to be seen two ancient stone monuments, of a small size, which are supposed to mark the graves of two of the regicide judges, Whalley and Dixwell, although there is much doubt on the subject. (See Stiles's Judge«.^ THE FARMIN'GTON CANAL New-Haven and Farmington Canal. This work was commenced about three years ago, and is designed to afford a navigable boat channel, to the Massachusetts line in Simsbury, where it is met by the Hampshire and Hampden Canal, which is to strike Connecticut River at Northampton. By an act passed in 1828 by the legislature of Massachusetts, this work may be continued along the course of the river, and the associated companies extend their views to the construction of a Canal to Barnet in Ver- mont. The Company for the Improvement of Con- necticut River are, at the same time, pursuing a system, which will be hereafter more particularly adverted to. The New-Haven and Farmington canal, commencing near the head of the wharf in this city, is crossed by the traveller in going up from the steamboat, near the market. The basin is large and commodious ; and the canal, passing through a part of the city, and bending round along the outskirts, on the north side, intersects several streets, by which it is crossed on handsome bridges. With a gradual ascent, the canal passes somewhat circuitously up the valley which opens towards Mount Carmel, between East and West Rocks ; and one of the stage roads to Hartford, which passes through Cheshire and Farmington, affords many views of it in different places. When the whole line shall become navigable, it will be an attraction to many travellers, and in a future edition, the objects along it may be particularized. The rates of toll established in 1828 were — 10 cents a mile on every packet boat, and 3 cents on every passenger ; 2 cents a mile on freight boats of less than 20 tons, and 3 cents on larger ones ; 1 or U cent pel . mile, on most heavy articles per ton, in boats, and i cents in rafts. The first part of the canal passes throsigh an ea«t So4 ROUTE IN difyi'NECTlCVT. and natural channel, where is little variation in the surface ; and introduces us to the beautiful and fertile meadows at Farming^ton. The upper part, however, and particularly the Hampshire and Hampden Canal, required much lockage ; but the irregularity of the country will present an interesting variety of scenery. Jocelyn has published an elegant and valuable map of the canal and adjacent country, to the Canada line. There are pleasant rides in various directions from New- Haven, the roads being numerous, and the face of the country favourable. The two mountains command extensive views, and though the access is rather fatiguing, the excursion is recommended to those who are fond of such enterprises. The Judges^ Cave is on the summit of West Rock, about a mile north of the bluiF: and the way to it leads near Beaver Pond, and Pine Rock (on the south side of which is a small cave), then between Pine and West Rocks. You here turn off the road to the left, by a path across a brook : and a guide may usually be obtained at a small house just beyond, who can show a horse path to the summit. The cave is formed by the crevices between seven large rocks, apparently thrown together by some con- vulsion. It is small, and entirely above ground, with a rude rock, like a column, on each hand. That on the right contains this inscription, " Opposition to tyrants is obedience to God," to remind the visiter that the place once afforded shelter to Goffe and Whalley, two of the iudges of king Charles the First, who escaped to the colonies and secreted themselves for some time in this solitary place. They were supplied with food by a family which resided near the foot of the mountain, aad a little boy was despatched for them every day, who left a basket of provisions on a rock, without knowing what cause he was STibserving. The place commands' K«)Al) TO .'^l.IDDLETOWN, 25.^ ail extensive view upon tiie country below, with a large tract ot" Long Island, and the Sound. The Manufactory of Muskets^ is 2 miles north of New-Haven, on the road to Hartford, by Meriden, and at the foot of East Rock. It was established by Mr. Whitney, the well-known inventor of the Cotton Gin. The machinery is carried by the water of a small river, and the houses of the overseers and workmen make a pretty appearance on the shore. Muskets are made here in all their parts, many of them for the arsenals of the United States. li: is designed to make the arms so much alike, 'hat the parts may be applied indifferently to all that proceed from the same manu- factory. It is not found possible, however, to accom- plish this object to the full extent desired. Road to Middletown. Northford ; * 10 miles. Durham 8 Middletown . . . (> For a description of this beautiful town, see beyond, j Beyond New-Haven in Long Island Sound, lies a cluster of islands called the Thimbles, famous in the traditions of the neighbourina: Connecticut coast, as the ancient resort of Capt. Ividd, a notable pirate, whose treasures of solid gold, it is still believed by some, are concealed somewhere hereabouts. Within this labyrinth of islands and headlands is a little secluded bay or inlet, capable of containing only one vessel at a time, which bears the name of Kidd's Har- bour. There is also his island, his chair, and his * punch bowl.' There are several houses along the snore, within a few miles of this place, which are re- sorted to during the warm season by a considerable number of visiters from the interior, for the sake of bathing in the salt water, and eating lobsters, black fi^h, and ovsters. In September and October, ducks 256 ROUTE I^ CONISECTICUT. may be found in great quantities near the shore, and black fish are caught in considerable numV)ers ; but the best fishing is further east, at New-London, New-| port, &;c. [As it is necessary, in a work like this, we have undertaken to pursue some definite course, and to mention places and objects in the order in which they will probably occur to most travellers, we shall here leave Long Island Sound to proceed up Connecticut River, and only refer the reader to the Index for an account of the coast beyond, and the following subjects and places : New-London, the Thames, Norwich, the Mohicans, the Pequods, Saccacus's Fort, Mystic Fort, the Narragansett shore, Newport, Providence, kc] SAYBROOK. At this place was the first settlement made by Euro- peans on Connecticut River. It was done at the earnest solicitation of many of the rightful proprietors of the country on its banks, who had been despoiled of their possessions by their formidable enemies, the Pequods. The River Indians, as our old histories usually deno- minate the former, twice made application to the English at Plymouth and at Boston, to obtain settlers upon their native soil, offering to give them land enough, and to pay 200 beaver skins annually for the benefil of their society. But the undertaking was considered too hazardous, and it was not until the year 1635, wher the Dutch at New- York showed a determination to seize upon the country, which they claimed as theii own, that a small detachment of men was sent froir Boston by water to prepare for opening a trade witl the Indians, and to build a fort at the mouth of tin; river. Their haste was soon justified by events : foi immediately after their landing, a Dutch vessel entered and proceeding up to Hartlbrd, landed a body of meu who soon established themselves in a fort they callr lJ.SJ7iroo/i JcJ^JT SAVr.UOOK. xf.j./ Good Hope, on a spot tiiey obtained from Pequod usurpers. The settlejnent of Saybrook was begun under a grant made to Lord Say and Seal, Lord Brook, a tut others, by George Fenwick, Esq. who fled to this country with his family. The old fort stood near the present fort hill, upon an eminence which has since been destroyed by the waves ; and the ground imme- diately behind it was afterward occupied by the fields and habitations of the colonists. It was expected from the first, that the situation would render the place a ^reat city ; and after the fear of the Indians had subsided, the whole peninsula, which bears the name of Saybrook Point, was laid out with the greatest regularity into fields of an equal size, except such parts xis were reserved for the erection of public buildings. Yale College was placed here for a time, and a great number of emigrants were once collected in England, and prepared for a voyage to this place. Some persons of high rank and importance were among them, and it is a vvell-authenticated fact, that Oliver Cromwell had determined to embark in the enterprise, and was once on the very eve of quitting England for ever, when some unforeseen occurrence prevented him. The want of a harbour, and the obstacles presented to a free navigation by a large sand bar at the mouth of the river, have effectually prevented the expecta- tions of the settlers of Saybrook from being realized ; and no remains of their works can now be discovered, except in the rectangular forms of the fields, and the cellars of some of their dwellings, just beyond the burying ground, the foundation stones of which have since been employed in building the neighbouring fences. One of the largest excavations is said to have been the cellar of the old colI«;ge building. The sol- diers were frequently attacked within a short distance of the tort by the Pequods, but they afterward ran a palisride across the isthmus which leads from the main- land, ROUTE IN CONNECTICU CONNECTICUT RIVER. The shores present a continued succession ot hilly and picturesque country, with few interruptions ot level land, from a little above Saybrook as far as Mid- dletown. The roughness and rocky nature of the soil prevent the cultivation of many mountainous tracts yet there are farms enough to give a considerable degree of softness to the scenery. The variety of rocky and wooded banks, mingling with little patches of cultivated ground, and the habitations scattered' along the river, is very agreeable, and often afford^ scenes highly picturesque and delightful. Essex, 7 miles from Saybrook. This place was formerly caller- Pettipaug. It is a small village, situated on the ascent and summit of a' handsome elevation, and contains a church and one or two other public buildings, on a conspicuous position. Just above it is an island of some extent, which divides'! the river and gives it an unusual breadth. During thci late war with Great Britain, this place was taken by; the enemy, who came up the river in launches, and' taking the inhabitants by surprise, occupied the town; for a few hours. Some distance above this place the channel lies soj near the eastern shore, that the steamboat passes' almost under the trees by which it is shaded. Joshua'' s Rock is on the same side of the river, a, little below Brockway's Ferry. It is said to have de- rived its name from the son of Uncas, Sachem of the' Mohicans (see J\orwich)y who, according to a tradition current in the neighbourhood, being once closely pur- _ sued by enemies, threw himself from the top of the' rock, and perished in the river. uAi>i>AM. ^^5y "Warners Ferry, 1 3 miles from Sayhrook. East Haddam. j The landing place here is rocky, mountainous, and vild, and a good specimen of a large portion of the own to which it belongs. Gen. Champion has a fine i ouse built among the rocks above, which adds much 1 3 the appearance of the place. This region is famous or a kind of earthquakes and subterranean sounds, vhich were formerly common for a short distance ound. They gave occasion to many superstitious eports, but have ceased within a ^qw years. They /ere called Moodus Noises, after the Indian name of he place. Large beryls are found in the neighbour- j cod, and many other minerals interesting to the scien- ific traveller. H \DDAM s built on an eminence 50 or 60 feet high, which ap- )ears like the remains of an old bank of the river, lescending aMittle meadow which is covered with •rchards, grazing ground, &c. while a range of com- nanding hills rise beyond. HiGGENUM 3 one of the little landing places so numerous along he river's course, 2 miles above Haddam. Middle Haddam, 2 miles. This is a pleasant country village, stretching along > hill covered with orchards and house lots, and racked by higher and wilder eminences. It is about > miles below Middletown, .'OU KOLTE lis COisKECTiCiT. Looking down the river from a little above tlji place, a lar^e and beautiful hill is seen, which affords the richest scene of cultivation on this part of the river, being entirely covered v^'ith fields and orchards. A i large wooded eminence is a little higher up, and several i high hills, almost worthy of the name of mountains are visible in the north. The Narrows. Here the river turns abruptly to the west, and flows between two lofty hills, which it has divided at some long past period, before "which, there is eveiy reason to believe, the country for a great distance above was covered by a lake. A mile or two eastward of this place, there is the appearance of an old channel, where the water probably ran, at a great height above its present level. The Lead Aline is a short distance from the southern bank of the river, near two or three old houses. Fort Hill is the last elevated part of the southern I bank. It was formerly a little fortress belonging to f Souheag, an Indian chief, whose dominion extended ' over the present towns of Middletown, Chatham, and Wetherstield. The large buildings on the hill in Mid dletown were erected ibr Capt. Partridge's Academ}-. MIDDLETOWN is beautifully situated on the western bank of the river, where the water is spread out to a considerable breadth, and disappears so suddenly at the Narrows, that from many points of view, it has the appearance of a small lake, w^ith high, sloping, and cultivated shores. This is a most agieeable residence for strangers, particularly Tor families, during the pleasant seasons of the year, and -^vill no doubt be soon supplied with more nume- rous and extensive accommodations. A large hotel has recently been built, v.liich iskep- :U[Dl)Li:TOWN, i6l by Mr. Newton. Mr. Camp's and Mr. BoardmarCs (in the same street) are large inns. The Quarries of Freestone., on the opposite shore, ha%'e i'urnished a valuable building material for somt* years, and have been worked to a considerable extent. Manufactories. Cotton, Woollen, and Rifle Manu- factories, and three machine shops, are near the bridge at the south end of the street. Col. North's Pistol Manufactory is situated two or three miles west of the town. There are also Starr's Rifle Factory, Johnson's Sword Factory, the Pameacha Woollen,* Spalding's Tape, and Pratt's Comb factories. There are various pleasant rides in this neiehbour- hood, particularly to two picturesque Water Falls in Middlefield. In the direction of one of them is Laurel Grove, where the road is shaded for near halt' a mile with those shrubs, which, in the season, are covered Iwith flowers. The environs of this place afford other agreeable rides. The Lead Mine is about two miles below the town, 3n the south shore of the river, accessible only on foot Dr in a boat, where are several old shafts, which were i»unk in the Revolutionary war, in a slate rock. The I'Dre is a sulphuret ot' lead, in veins of quartz, partly I crystallized, and affording a few specimens ol' fluate ^f lime, and other minerals. I The Cobalt Mine is about five miles east, in Chatham; lat the foot of Rattlesnake Hill. It is not worth work ;!ng, at the usual price of the metal. Specimens of I peach-bloom of cobalt may be picked up among the •Rubbish. Just southerly from it is a very pretty water all, about thirty feet high. A number of German families live in the neighbour^ bood ; the descendants of miners, who came from Europe some years ago to work the mine. * The Pameacha Manufactory employs from 350 to 200 persons, con- sumes 100,000 lbs. of tint' wnnl. and ti'ini* 'iiil ■'ifl.OOn vd'^ of finished sroatJcloth a vear. ^b'r KOUTE Uf CO^NECTICl;T KlViK. Upper Houses, ar village of Middletown, 2 miles above. From a hill 1 mile from this is a very pleasant view towards the south, presentinp^ the river, with the mea- dow and hills, as well as xMiddletown and the fine hi^h grounds in its rear. The small divisions of the soil and the density of the population, as well as the fertility of the ground, and the frequency of school- houses and churches, here show one of those interest- ing and beautiful scenes characteristic of Connecticut River, and which the traveller will find repeated all along its course far into New-Hampshire and V^er- mont. Rocky Hill, 5 miles, a parish of VVethersfield. About half a mile north of the tavern, you reach the brow of a hill, which commands a rich prospect of many miles of the Connecticut Valley. Wethersfield lies in front, and the variegated hills and plains around belong to numerous townships on both sides of the river, en- closed by ranges of distant highland, which direct the course of its channel. On the left, about 15 miles off, is the ridge of Ta cott mountain; and the two blue peaks in the north are Mounts Tom and Holyoke,near Northampton, at the distance of about fifty miles. Wethers/idd, 3 miles from Hartford. This place has a fine light soil, on an extensive level, probably once the bottom of a lake since drained by the deepening of the river's channel. It is peculiarly favourable to the culture of onions, which are exported in great quantities to various parts of the country, the West Indies, &,c. Wethersfield was one of the three earliest settle- ments made by white men in Connecticut : or rather it may strictly claim the precedence of all, for although houses were first built here, as well as at Hartford and Windsor, in 1635, three or four men came to this place ^he year previous, and spent the winter. Depredalions CO'NNECTICUT STATE PRISON. 2^3 were committed on their settlements for the first few years ; but as they were done by the Pequods, the destruction of that nation at Mystic Fort, by Capt. Mason, in 1636, f of apprehension, an eager thirst for know- ledge, and a very retentive recollection; and, as all their instruction, bt-ing communicated through the sight, can be obtained only by the strictest attention, and the abstraction of the mind from every other subject, the appearance of a class absorbed in their lesson i< calcu ated to produce feelings of an unusual and highly interesting character. Every deaf and dumb person soon forms a language of natural signs, by which he is able to communicate the most necessary ideas on first arriving at the As3rlum. He is then taught the alphabet in use here, which i« made by the fingers of one hand ; after which the names of visible objects are easily spelled, and the order of their letters committed to Hjemory Absent Z 2 2U.G KOUTE IF CONNECTICUT iilXi^li, objects and abstract ideas are communicated by mauy ina:enious devices, which it is impossible here to de- scribe ; and arhitrary signs are adopted to represent, such as may require them. Definitions are very ex- tensively resorted to ; and they are always of the most strictly logical character. Indeed, the whole system is one of the most complete and be utiful of the kind ever formed on philosophical principles. The number of scholars is about 130. Some of them are supported by a fund belong;in2f to the insti- tution, and others by the states of M;issachusetts, New-Hampshire, &c. Similar institutions exist in the city and state of New-York, Philadelphia, &c. and one has lately been provided for in Kentucky. The Hopkins's Grammar School, which has been recently much enlarged, is in the lower part of the town. The Retreat for the Insane is a little south of the city, and makes a handsome appearance, beins: a stone building 150 feet long and 50 wide, the wings having three stories, and the main building four, ft is capa- ble of containing about 50 patients, and is warmed by flues. The grounds connected with the institution include about 17 acres. Miss Beecher''s School justly enjoys a very high repu- tation. Washington College is situated west of the main street, in the south part of the town. It is an episco- pal institution, and has at present two stone build- ings erected : one for the s'udents, 150 feet long, four stories high, with accommodations for 96 pupils ; and a chapel, which has also rooms for recitation, the library, &lc. The college bills are g52 50 per annum in all ; and the students board in private families at the rate of ^1 50 per week. Fourteen acres of land belong to the institution, part of which are devoted to the garden with its green-house. A lai^e episcopal school has recently opened for young ladies near this institution. TKAVELLIKG IN rvEW-ENGLAND. 267 [jMrntevideOi the seat of Daniel Wadsworth, Esq. Iljoys a charming situation on a mountain nine miles sstward. Tariffville is a little manufacturing- place several iles north of that spot, near a romantic scene on irmin^ton river, where it parses through the moun- in. Here is a carpet manufactory.] I Remarks to the Tbaveller at Hartford. I From Hartford there are stage coaches running in va- )us direction'? ; north, one on each side of Connecticut ver ; north-east, to Boston ; east, to Providence ; •dh, to New-Haven and New-York (besides the daily i!amboats to the latter place) ; 7i-est, to Litchfield id Poughkeepsie and north-'west to Albany. The road to Boston leads through Stafford Springs, Id Worcester, but is otherwise very uninteresting and ( ite hilly. There are two routes to Boston, which Iparate at Tolland, and meet again 15 miles from that Ipital. On the new road, (which is shorter,) a coach |;es through every day — travelling from 3 A. M. till '^Stajford Springs, (26 miles from Hartford) is. in a [mantic region. Tolland 17 m. Springs 9, Stur- jidge 16, kc. The traveller in New-England is advised to take the ute up Connecticut river, which is the most fertile, salthy, and beautiful tract of the countiy ; and to re- rn by the way of Boston and Providence. This is 3 route we propose to pursue ; but the traveller can ry from it as he pleases. He will find such informa- n as this little volume is able to afiford him, by refer- )g to the Index. The fertility of the meadows in the Connecticut Val- f is almost proverbial ; and after what the stranger 3 seen of its banks at Middletown and Hartford, he ill learn with gratification that neither the soil nor the auty of the cultivation degenerates for several hun- 2B8 R0UTE UP CONNECTICUT RIVER. dred miles northward. The whole country is thickly populated ; neat and beautiful villages are met with . at intervals of a few miles ; and the general intel- ligence derived from universal education gives an ele- vated aspect to society. The accommodations for' travellers are generally very comfortable, and some- times uncommonly good and elegant; the scenery is i ever new ;md varying ; many places have traits of in-^ terest in their history ; and the communic ition is easy," from many points of the route, with the principal places on the east and west Besides all this, the roads are pe- culiarly tine, for they are generally run .dong the river's bank, which is almost without exception level and plea- sant, and formed of a soil well fitted to the purpose. The western side of the river is generally to be pre- ferred; but as there are good roads on both sides, and^ some villages and other objects worthy of equal notice on the eastern shore, and good ferries or bridges are to' be met with every few miles, it will be agreeable oc- casionally to cross and recross. Those who travel along the course of the Connecticut twice, would doi well to go up on one side and return on the other.! This is the most direct route to the White Hills or White Mountains of New-Hampshire. The improvement of the navigation of Connecticut' river above Hartford has been seriously contemplated, on a combined system, and the legislatures of Vermont and Massachusetts have consented to a uniform plan. Several of the principal falls have been canalled and locked foe boats f ^r a number of years ; and they might]^ be made to serve on the line. The first part of the na- vigation (that is, from Hartford to Springfield and North- ampton) chiefly engages attention at present ; and it; is not improbable that the traveller will have an op- portunity to gratify himself with a pleasant passage in a steamboat even as far as the latter place in 1830. A canal has been made at Enfield Falls, 6 miles in length, in the bed of the river, with three locks, of a sufficient breadth to admit steam towboats. | I AMEiilCAN HIsTOniCAL bOCIETi. 2(3^ The Steamboat Blanchard, built at Springfield foi 'this navigation, measures 30 tons, has two cabins and an engine of about 20 horse power. It draws scarcely a foot of water, but moves with such power that in 1828 lit went up the falls at South Hadley at a rapid rate. The scenery on this route will be found very pleasing, ; Those w ho go to Boston will pass through Worcester. i Worcester is one of the finest villages in New-Eng- land, llie Worcester Coal Mine, which is at a distance from the road, is likely to be worked to a considerable i extent. The vein is considered as connected with that bn Rhode Island. It is anthracite ; and if its quality 'should justify the opinions which have been expressed, it cannot fail to prove highly valuable, both for home use and for transportation by the canal. There is a deep cut at the foot of the hill, leading to a horizontal shaft I iviiich has been carried in some distance. The country around it is rich and variegated, and the dwellings have an air of elegance which does great credit to the I taste as well as the wealth of its inhabitants. Brick is extensively used in building. Penknives are manu- factured here of fine quality. The courthouse, bank, fee. stand on the principal street; and east of it the :ounty house and the building of the American Historical Sooiety. This is an institution formed by Mr. Isaiah Thomas, many years a printer in this place, for the truly im- portant purpose of preserving every thing relating to the history, traditions, &c. of the country. He has made it a donation of his valuable library, between 7 and 8000 volumes, with many files of news}japers ; and built at his own expense the handsome edifice in which it is deposited. Many interesting curiosities have also been collected here from all parts of the country, but the institution has not funds to support a keeper, and the cabinet has not (unless, perhaps, recently) been opened to the public. The building cost about $8000. 270 EOUTE IP COXNECTICUT EIVEK. For the Blackstone Canal which connects this place with Providence, see Index. Sutton, Worcester Co. There is a remarkable chasm in the rocks in this place, at a distance from the road, which appears to have been produced by some tre- mendous convulsion in the earth. It appears like ai wild and broken ravine, half a mile long, enclosed oni each side by irregular walls of granite, rising to al height of about 115 feet perpendicular, and so near' as to threaten the visiter who explores the place be- 1 Jow. The opening is only from 75 to 100 feet wide ;" and the opposite masses of rock correspond as if for-' cibly torn asunder, as they doubtless have been. On' the brow of one of the precipices is a mass of granite estimated to weigh 5000 tons. The depth is so great, and the shelter from the sun so entire in many places,' that ice may be found at almost any season of the year. Watchusett Hills, 16 miles W. N. W. of Worcester, and 52 VV. by N. of Boston, are estimated at nearly 3000 feet above the sea, and ascended by an easy path. Tiie spectator looks down on a surrounding scene of wooded mountains, below which are ponds and farms, and a view over cultivated aud inhabited regions. [From Worcester to Leicester, 5 miles ; East Brook- field, 7 ; Brookfield, 3 ; War Factory Village, 5 ; Belchertown, 10 ; Northampton, 15.] Route up Connecticut River. Leaving Hartford, The State Arsenal* is seen on the right-hand, a mile from the city ; and many pleasant views are enjoyed. * The Qiiarrer-Master General reported that there were in the arse- nal, in J828, 48.57 muskets purchased by the state, together with 2927 muskets and 150 rifles, with the proper accoutrenieiils, received from the United States. Accordhig to the last regular returns, thete were in the liands of the niiliiia, hut not owned by the state, upwards ol 13,00() ' muskets and rifles fit for service, which, with those in flie arsenal, at' jfrarly equal to the whole number of the infantry. ; SPKINSFIELO. 27 1 [East Hartford, opposite Hartford, has a sandy soil, )ut the street, as well as that of East Windsor, next iiorth of it, is shaded with rows of fine elms. The road •crosses Poduiik Brook by a small bridge, about four Iniles from Hartford, on the north bank of which, on he lett-hand, was once the fort of the powerful tribe )f Podunk Indians, who had that this place was settled as early as 1635. A (ew months after the Juilding of the fort, ((»robably a blockhouse,) the Dutch garrison at Hartford made a secret march against t, expecting to take it by surprise ; but on arriving at he place they found reason to give up their enter- prise, and returned without firing a gun. The country was formerly very populous in Indians, the six square niles of which the town was formed, and which ex- tended on both sides of the river, containing ten sepa- rate sachemdoms, or petty Indian tribes. There is a school established in this town on the t'ellenberg plan, in which agriculture is taught both 27^ l.OUTE UP CO]S'NECTICUr lilVER. theoretically and practically, a good farm adjoining it being open to the examination and experiments of the students. The seat of the late Chief Justice Oliver Ellsworth stands on the east side of the street, above the tow^n, , nine miles above Hartford. It is distinguished by co- lumns, and surrounded bj^ trees. He was born in a house opposite. He was in Europe as minister for the j United States to France. Alter turning a corner a little beyond this place, the new road runs north by a tavern, while the old one. j across a sand plain, keeps straight on. The former is recomniended, as it passes for several miles along the , bank of Connec icut River. Warehouse Point, in Entield, is seen on the east side. Here vessels are built, and the place carries on a little trade. There is a Shaker settlement of about 600 persons, 5 or 6 miles from Enfield. Messrs. Andrews & Thompson's Carpet Manufactor}'^ is at Thomp- sonville. The Canal of 6 miles to pass the falls below this ! place, was spoken of at Hartford. SUFFIELD is a very pleasant town about a mile west of the road* and has a good inn, and a mineral spring in its vicinity^ which has been the resort of considerable company. The village street runs along the ridge of a long and ] beautiful hill, with neat houses and white fences on , both sides, and the home lots sloping east and west to- ( wards the low ground. Some of the houses are large i and elegant. Suffield Springs. About a mile south-west of the street is a mineral spring of slightly sulphureous qua- i Hties. A house has been built there about 20 yearSr 'vhich has accommodations for 50 persons, with bath? •-^f djfl'erent descriptions. The spring; is in swampy SmilN till ELD. Svf and, and its qualities are considered valuable, par- icularly in cases of cutaneous disorders. The place s pleasant, in the midst of a rich rural scene, with a 3retty flower garden, &c. calculated to render it an igreeable resort, which it will, no doubt, in due time Decome. If it is intended to stop for the night within a few niles, the best inn is the Columbian Hotel, at Spring- ield, on the east side of the river. To reach it in ^oing north, turn off to the right through the meadows? •ome time atter passing Westfield River, which will lead directly to the Springtield bridge. This is sub- itantially built, and well protected by a roof. Spritsgfield, iJoJumhian Hotel. Stage coaches run north, south, ind to Boston and Albany. < i'his is a flourishing town, standing at the foot of a iiigh hill, the side of which is ornamented with fine [)ui!dings, the residences of some of the wealthier in- jiabitants, and the top occupied by the United States' Armory. This establishment occupies a large space if ground, and commands a fine view. The build- ings containing the workshops tor manufacturing small ;)rm?, the arsenal, barracks, &c. are surrounded by a jiigh wall ; and the habitations of the workmen, seen n several neighbouring streets, are generally neat louses with small gardens. Some of the principal )uildini:s within the wails were burnt about four years^ jgo, but have since been rebuilt, viz. three buildings, >ach 120 feet long, one of which is a store house of irnis. Access may be obtained ; but here is not room .0 give a particular description of the establishment, which bears a general resemblance to others of this kind in the country, although it is the largest in size. The number of workmen required, which is about 260, has a favourable effect on the business and pros- perity of the place. About 13.000 muskets are raad^; 274 KOUTiJ Li* CONNECTICUT KIVER. here annually, or 60 a day. There were manufactured ] here, in 1829, 16,500 muskets. Expenditure, g 190,000, ' including repairs, &c. The average cost of a musket . is now glO 66. Since the establishment was formed, ; in 1795, 296,989 muskets have been tnanufacturedj The manufactories on Mill river, a iiitle south of the j armory, are various and well worthy of observation, at | least, in passing. A road that runs along the bank,'! passes a number of flour mills, &c. belonging to indi-| viduals, besides the Upper, Middle, and Lower Water] Shops, connected with the aruiory. There are three I dams of hewn stone, and the buildings, in plan andi construction, are well calculated for service and dura- bility. The water shops contain in all 18 water wheels, 10 trip hammers, 28 forges, 9 coal houses, ; and have connected with them several houses andi stores. The town is ornamented with many fine elms and other trees; and there are two very handsome! churches, a High School, &,c. It was origina ly con- sidered within the limits of Connecticut Colony, but at length incorporated with Massachusetts. A tribe of Indians lived for some years on Fort Hill ; but being won over to King Philip's party, in 1675, they assuuied a hostile air, tired upon some of the inhabit- ants who were going to tljeir tort, and burnt a part of| the town. in 1786, during the rebellion of ^'hays, he attacked the armory, at the head of a strong party of undisci- plined men. Gen. Shepard, who had command at the.' place, attempted to dissuade them from their attempt j and finally drove them off by firing twice. The first shot, over their heads, dispersed the raw troops, and the secuiid drove off the remainder, who, being about 500 revolutionary soldiers, did not desist until they had lost a few of their men. This was the first check the insurrection received, which was put down w'thout much subsequent trouble. Snrinsrfield Factory Village is a new and very ex I SOUTH HADLEY F^iLLS. 2/6 c tensive manufacturing place. It is on the Chicopee ,1 River, and a stage coach passes through it every other tday, on the road to Belcherlonn. The capital em- ,; ployed here in 1828 was *>^500,000. The buildings brick, 2 stories, and about 9000 yards of cotton were made daily in all. ; Wilbraham, 7 or 8 miles west from Springfield, con- tains a Wesley an Academy. The pupils are instructed in agriculture on a farm, and in the mechanic arts in a. shop, belonging to the institution. There are llteachers in various branches of literature, science, and |the arts. West Springfield has a fine street, shaded with large :elms, and containing some handsome houses. It is 26 miles from Harttord, and about 17 miles from North- lampton. There is a fine vie • from the road on the brow of a hill a little noith of the town, near a church, which overlooks the river and an extent of country on leach side, with Mounts Tom and Holyoke in front. South Haduey Falls. The village and locks are on the east side of the river. The whole fall of the river at South Hadley is 52 feet, but at the lower falls only 32. There is a canal 2r, miles long on the bank of the river, cut through a slate rock for a considerable distance, and in some places very deep. The dam is 8 feet high. There are five locks near the tavern, nnd one above. The toll here is 90 cents. There is a ferry here, which is safe, hut the water runs very swiftly. For "-everal miles before reaching Mount Tom, the road runs along the bank of the river, showing its banks, in many places, rousi-hened with rocks. Its channel is in one place crossed by the dam, which turns the water into the South Hadley Canal. The river makes an abrupt turn some miles above, running between Mount Tom on the south and Mount Holyoke on the north ; 276 ROUTE UP CONr^ECTICUT KIVER. and when the scene opens again, it discloses a chartiv ing and extensive plain, formed of the meadows on the river's bank, and evidently once the site of a large lake, when the water was restrained by the bar- rier between the mountains. This plain is one of the ' richest, and by far the most extensive and beautiful on ' the river. Northampton. Hotels. There is a splendid hotel here. Warner also keeps a very good house. This town is situated at the west side of the plain, a mile from the river, and is a favourite place of re- sort for travellers ; as it is one of the most beautiful of the New-England villages, and is surrounded by a charming country, and lies near to Mount Holyoke, which commands a view of the whole. The streets are irregular, but some of them shady and delightful in summer, being also ornamented with many neat houses It is a place of considerable business ; and the soil makes valuable farms.* Round Hill is a beautiful eminence just west of the town, where is the school of Messrs. Cogswell and Bancroft, for the education of boys. The branches of learning taught there are numerous, and there are in- structers for the French, Spanish, and German lan- guages. Great attention is paid to the hours of recre- ation as well as of study, and the pupils are rarely to be seen out of the precincts of the school. The place * Canal.— "Sir. Kurd's esiiniaie of the whole expense of the Hampshire and Hampden Canal is given as follows: Canal $204,210 Feed«'rs, 44^856 Cost ol' lands and contingent expense, . 18,500 Total expense, $-267,566 | The longfli of (he canal is 29^ miles, divided into 56 sections of MS jiods each. When finish'^fl it will be particularly described in a futiiro SOLiliAMrruX LEAD MIMi. 2ti ; itself is very plensant : commanding- fine air, fine I scenes, and perfect retirement. ; On tlie eastern declivity of the hill stands the house !of the Stoddard family, an ancestor of which was a I man of great talents and influence in this part of the country. On the east side of the main street, just south of the brook, is the house of the late Governor : Strong. There is a large Button Manufactory in this vi- cinity. I The Lead Mine. I In Southampton, at the distance of 8 miles from this ■place, is a lead mine, which will be regarded with in- ' terest by the curious and scientific. A considerable jpart of the road to it is good, and the place is wild and rough. The following extract from the Journal of Science and the Arts, furnishes all necessary in- formation on the subject. "This vein declines 10 or 15 degrees from a per- pendicular, is 6 or 8 feet in diameter, and traverses granite and other primitive rocks. It has been ob- served at intervals fi'om Montgomery to Hatfield, a ! distance of 20 miles. In Southampton it has beenex- I plored many rods in length, to the depth of 40 or 50 I leet ; and the galena, which is the principal ore, has been found in masses from a quarter of an inch to a , foot in diameter. At the depth above mentioned, the \ water became so abundant that it v\as thought advis- ' able to abandon a perpendicular exploration, and to 'descend to the foot of a hill on the east, nearly 80 ! rods rom the vein, and attempt a horizontal drift, or I adit ; and ever since its commencement, seven or eight ' years ago, the working of the vein has ceased. The rocks that have been penetrated, reckoning from the mouth of the drift inwards, are geest, the red and gray slates of the coal formation, with thin beds of coal- and mica slate, and granite, alternatinsr. Aa2 fi78 liOUTE UP CONNECTICLT KIVEK. The mouth of this drift is 4 or 5 feet wide, and about 3 feet above the surface of the water. The water is deep enough, the whole length of it, to admit the passage of a loaded boat. The person wishing to explore this internal canal, must fire a gun at the entrance, or beat heavily with a sledge on the timbers that support the soil ; in 10 or 15 minutes, he will per- ceive a gentle undulation of the water, and soon after, a boat advancing with lighted lamps and a rower; having seated himself on the bottom of this boat, and' provided himself with an additional garment, he is prepared tor his subterranean expedition. If he looks back, after having advanced several hundred feet, the light at the entrance will appear diminished to thel size of a candle ; and before he reaches the extremity, it becomes invisible. About half way from the en- trance to the end of the drift, he will pass a shaft,, down which a small brook is turned, for the purpose i of aiding the ventilator. The miners do not quit the drift when they blast, but retire behind a breastwork thrown up for the purpose. One man has been an inmate of that dark recess eight or ten years without suffering in his health. Every mineralogist passing that way, will of course visit the drift. Intelligent gentlemen, with -ut profes- sional views, and even ladies, not untrequently enter the cavity." Mount Holyoke. The ascent of this mountain has become very fash- ionable, perhaps more so than any siniilar enterprise in this country, if we except that of the Catskill Moun- tains in New- York. The height is said to be 800 feet ; and there is a good carriage road the greater part of the way up, as well as a building of consider- able size on the summit, for the accommodation of visiters, who resort thither every season, usuaJiy in partief?. I MOU:>fT HOLYOKE, 279 There is a short road through the meadows, directly to Lyman's ferry, at the foot of the mountain, which is furnished with a good horse-boat. But it may be bund pleasanter to cross the bridge at the upper end 3f the town, f)ass throu^rh Hadley Meadows, and down m the eastern bank. The path up the mountain turns )flf near a small old house, and another opposite the :avern near the ferry. After following the latter to its ermination, you dismount, secure your horses to the :rees, and walk up a rude stone staircase on the right. Refreshments will be found at the house which occu- i)ies the summit ; and which opens on both sides, in ijuch a manner as to command an uninterrupted view )f the rich and varied landscape below. Those who vish to enjoy the luxury of seeing day break and the un rise over such a scene, may find a shelter here for he night. There was a remarkable flood in the river, 21 feet,) in the autumn of 1828, which destroyed bulld- ogs, crops, &c. to an unprecedented extent. i South-east, the view is less interesting, and may jherefore be first examined. The country is undu- 'ating, and the soil generally poor; yet several vil- ayres are discovered at a distance, particularly South liadley, which lies immediately below. Southwardly s seen Connecticut river, retiiing under the shade of iMount Tom, whitened f)elovv tjy the South Hadley Falls; beyond which is the hill at Springfield. The 'iver makes several turns, and on the horizon are two t/^ery distant peaks, which are supposed to be East and West Rocks, at New- Haven, about 70 miles distant. North-east is seen Monadnoc Mountain in New- Hampshire ; and the view towards the east is inter- "upted by the neighbouring peaks of Mount Holyoke. North, you look up the charming valley of the Con- lecticut ; bordered by distant ranges of hills and moun- tains, varied by a few isolated peaks, covered with the lichest coat of vegetation, and scattered with villages and innumerable farm houses. The river makes a beautiful serpentine course ; from where it first ap- 21)0 ROUTE IP COA.^KCTICLT illVilll. pears at the foot of Sugar Loaf Mountain, and Mount Toby,* until it reaches the village of Hadley, which lies in full view ; and then taking a bold svveep to the west, and flowing 4| miles, it returns to the end of the street, only a mile distant from where it first meets it. The whole peninsula is rich and tertile, and covered with cuhivated fields of wheat, corn, groSS, &c. wiihout being disfigured by fences, according to the custom prevalent here:dx)uts ; and is the richest sight upon the river, particularly when viewed in con- nexion with the scene immediately below, where the river flows on, almost immediatel}^ under our (eet, and the western shore presents the extensive Northamp- ton Mea ovvs, a mile wide. Following the current with the eye, in the West-soutk-i:i'esU it forms a still more remark,26 ; the number who graduated in 18-28^ Wis 40; and the sludPHts, in 1829, were 211. The president, Dt. Ilumi'li e-. is mIso proi'essor of mental and moral Philosophy and Divinity. There are six other protessors, and a teacher of French arid Spanish, a teacher of mathematics, and a tutor of Latin and Greek. A gymnastic apparatus has lately been added. The Amherst Academy is a large private establish- ment for the education of boys. It is about three ! DLE.sii'lELh. 233 miles distant; the building is elegant, the instructers are of a high character, and the system is formed on the improved principle. The i^odern Greek pronun- ciation has been adopted here for the ancient language, under the instruction of Mr. Perdicari, a Grecian by birth ; and this judicious example it is hoped may be followed in other institutions. The Sugar Loaf is an isolated hill of a conical form, rising in front as we proceed. A fine view is enjoyed from the summit, where has recently been ^erected a house for visiters. Deertield lies n6rth of it Ubout three miles ; and the way by which we approach it, lies nearly along the old road which led thither through the wilderness, in 1675, when it was deserted by the settlers, and Capt. Lothrop was despatched, with a body of 80 soldiers and wagoners, to bring off the grain. At the foot of this mountain is the small village of Bloody Brook, (improperly called Muddy i Brook,) and near the spot where a bridge crosses the ; stream, Capt. Lothrop was ambushed by about 800 { Indians. The place was then a marshy piece of ground; and some traces of the road, which was I formed of logs, are stili to be seen, running thn^ugh ! the fields without crossing at the bridge. The convoy halted at this place ; and the soldiers were generally engaged in gathering grapes from t)ie vines which ran on the trees, having left their muskets on the ground, when the Indians tired upon them. Capt. Lothrop gave orders that the men should disperse, ^nii fire from behind the trees; but they were all cut off except 8 or 10. This massacre was one of the most calami- tous which ever occurred in New-England, taken into view with the small number of inhabitants at the time : as the company consisted of young m.en from the principal families in the eastern towns. There is a stone now lying near the fence, west of the brook, which was brought there some years since for a monu- ment, but not raised. That part of the meadow we pass through in ap 284 SOTJTE IP COKKECTICnT RIVliR. preaching Deerfield was the scene of several skir- mishes wiJh the Indians at different limes, as the place was a frontier for nnany years, although it was twice burned and deserted. Deerfield. In 1704, which was the period of its last destructiop' a large body ot" Indians, led on by a few Frenchmen^ from Canada, came upon the town before dayiighto ' It was winter, and the snow crust was strong enough* to bear them ; they had secreted themselveson a hill * north-west from Deerfield, and sent in a scout. The houses were all entered but one, the inhabitants made captives, and all, except a few, taken off to Canada- One of the houses is standing at this day, a little north i of the church ; and the hole may still be seen in the I door, which the Indians hacked with their tomahawks. 1 and then fired through, as well as the marks of several ; bullets in the eastern room, one of which went through' the neck of a woman and killed her. A young man: and his bride leaped from a window of the chamber above; and thouuh the latter v/as unable to walk, in consequence o! spraining her ancle, the former filed, ati her urgent request, and, meeting with some troops on; his way, brought them up in time to drive off the In i dians, but not lo retake any of the captives. ' A house next this was valiantly defended by seven' men ; and the dwelling of Mr. Williams, the minister. was taken, and he and his family carried to Canada. Most of the people were ransomed ; but a daughter of Mr. W. became attached to the savage life, married ? chief, and left children. Mr. Vv illiams, missionary to the Indians at Green Bay, was one of her descendants. Some marks of the old picket may be traced in the rear of the house, which is supposed to present the same appearance as in old time, excepting that thf; kitchen, &c. have since been built, and the front and ' rear have been coverer^ There is an acadeiny in this town, but it is not in a very flourishing: condition. East from this place, are several spurs projecting from the hill, on one of which was formerly a fort, for the protection of the Deerfield Indians against the Mohawks. Greenjield, 3 miles. Here the stage coach passes on a road from Boston to Albany. The countiy west is highly picturesque. Just south of the town, Deer- field river appears to have at some period formed a Jake of some extent, with an outlet towards the east,, where its channel may be seen, with the place of an old cascade, and the rocks bored out by the rushing of the water. The channel now lies through a deep cut between two hills. A High School, for young ladies, was established here in 1828. ^ Turner's Falls are on Connecticut river, two or three miles east from Greenfield. It is necessary to leave the road to see them ; but they are of consider- able height and beauty, and history has rendered the place memorable, from an important battle fought there towards the close of Philip's war. 1 he way by which we approach is nearly over the same ground, .where Capt. Turner marched, with his body of meUy in the year 1676, when he went to attack a large body of Indians, assembled at an Indian fort, a quarter of a aiile above the falls ; and by which he also returned, ifter a successful battle, pursued by his surviving Iniemies. Philip, having been driven from the seacoast and he neighbourhood of the English settlements, by the active operations of Capt. Church, Capt. Mosely, Capt. «Vheeler, &c., retired with some of his followers to he Northlield Indians, who held a position on a sandy iill, on the north bank of the river. Here he was ttacked in the night by the troops under Capt. Tur- ner. The English left their horses on a hill, which f' descends to a brook emptying into the Connecticut elow the falls: and having moimtcd the oppo^i'*^. ^86 BObTE tF CONNECTICUT RIVEIi. bank, pFoceeded near where the present road leads, and marched up the sandy hill. The place has a swamp on two :-ides, and the river on the fourth. It is, indeed, overtopped by neighbouring hills ; but cannon, of course, were out of the question in such a warfare. The Indians had held a feast that night, as some of their captives afterward reported, and were generally asleep, so that the attack of the white nien gave them a panic, and they fled to their boats, which they launclied in such haste, that many forgot their paddles, and were carried over the falls. The rest,' however, rallied before their enemies were out of their reach, and being joined by some from the island; below the falls, pursued and harassed them about ten' miles, to Deeifield. Bones are occasionally dug up| near the spot, and a few years ago the remains of an' old musket, a few silver coins, &,c. were discovered! among the rocks. ^ This was the last and most severe blow Philip re-? ceived, before he returned to his native country in; Rhode I-land, where he soon after terminated hi:^ dangerous life, and the war, which brought so many* calamities upon New-Endand. 'i Tlie Canal. — A dam oigreat height is built at the* falls, to supply a canal, which extends two or thret^ miles for boats and rafts. Some mills are also e?jta' blished on the river's bank. The fall is divided b>' two rude rocks, between which the water rushes in separate cataracts; and the scenery below is wild and not a little imposing. This is part of the New Haven Greenstone range, and there aie two veins o, copper in the mountain : specimens of coal have beeH found. There is, however, no inn nearer than Green^ field.] Bernardston, 8 miles from Greenfield. Vernon. — Within the limits of this township, whici is the first in Vermont, was once Fort Drummer, od of a chain of forts, built for the protection of thj ^country against the Canadian Indians. The place fo WALFOLE. '2^^ -onie years was known on the river, by the name of i^umber One, being tlie first of four townships. Passing through a pretty village, with several mills, ifter a few miles we approach Brattleborough, south )f which, east of the road, is a quarry, which furnishes \ large qtiantity of slate ; where may be seen the node of quarrying, splitting, shaping, and packing it "or transportation. Brattleborough is a very pleasant village, situated in an elevated pi in above the river, which, since the draining of the old lake in this place, has made two )r three successive arches north of the town, as it has rradually lowered its channel to the present level. At the bridge, over a smab stream, are several manu- actories ; and in the village is a large and comfortable itage house, whence coaches go to Boston, as well as vest, north, an i south. ; Westminster. — This is on a fine, extensive level ; and jin the high land, o ) the opposite side of th*- river, is I Walpole. — Connecticut river being the dividing; line iietween the two adjacent states, Walpole is in New- lampshire. The situation is very commanding, and jhe summit of the hill, above the village, affords a view If unusual extent and beauty. There is a spacious ;nd well-kept inn at Walpole ; and stage coaches go jence to Boston, &c. It will be found the best place p stop at between Brattleborough nd Charlestown. I Three miles north is the farm of Col. Bellows, rhich contains 700 acres. The house of the propri- Itor enjoys a fine situation on a ridge rising from the iieadow, near wh«-re siood the fort erected by Col. j»eIlows, when, about the middle of the last century, le place was occup'ed and a settlement begun under le name of Township No. 3. 1 The changes which have taken place in the channel f the; river, in the course of ages, are very manifest i 1 passing along this part of its course, particularly by ie western bank ; in one place, which is now perhaps 00 feet above the present level of the water, tbf" 28U ROUTE UP CONNECTICUT EiVER. current appears once lo have flowed, and to have formed the cataract, which has now retired a mile or mori- to the north. BelIozvs''s Falls. — The heig^ht of this fall is inconside- rable, but it is, on he whole, a striking; o ject ; sur- rounded by rocky banks, and having an abrupt moun- tain on the eristern side. The place has also been much ornamentr d by art ; for, besides the village, with its neat white houses and hand-ome church, a canal has been dug round the falls, a bridge thrown over them, and the rugged side of the mountain decorated j with a handsome country seat. , The rocks are of the most firm and solid gray gra- , nite, but are much cut by the force of the current. In some places holes have been bored into them perpen- i dicularly, two or three feet in diameter, and 12 or even | 18 feet deep. This is done by the motion given to y loose stones by the eddies of the stream, and the gra- i dual enlargement of the bore sometimes breaks off | great masses of the rock. These falls were once the i^ favourite resort of Indians during the fishing season. On the rock just below the bridge are some remains of their rude attempts at sculpture, which represent the form of human faces ; and from one on the end of ] the stone, whici appears to have suffered less trom the attrition of the floods, it would seem as if they might once have been more finished specimens of sculpture than hey now appear, as that presents considerable prominency and beau y of execution. The Hunt Farm is about 3^ miles from the falls, and is a Urge and valuable estate, the meadows being rich and beautiful in the extreme. The house and other bui dings are large; but the establishment is not conducted on such a plan as would gratify an agri- culturist. Charlestown. —Th\s is one of the prettiest little vil- lages in New-England : having a wide street, parti) shaded with trees, and lined with neat houses, many I AVINDSOK. J 819* oi which speak the taste, as well as the easy circum- stances, of their proprietors. This was called Township No. 4. The fort, built for the defence of the place in 1743, stood on the gently rising ground a little south of the chur< h, where the street runs : but not a vestige of it is to be disco- vered. It was most gallantly deiended by Capt. Ste- vens, in 1747, against a large number of French and Indians : although repeatedly called upon to suirender, the garrison persisted in the defence, digging into the ground to shelter theT^selves from the enemy's fire, and, after several days, succeeded in driving them away. Capt. S. received a sword for his bravery. Jarvis^ Farm at Wethersfield Bow, on the west side of the river, is very extensive, and contains a number of large buildings for dwelling.^, barns, stables, he, principally of brick. The land is generally , fenced with the roots of pine trees, dragged from the 'ground, by which the soil is rendered fit tor imnnediate i cultivation, and unencumbered. The proprietor of this farm is also the possessor of a large part of the township besides, and is very wealthy. The roid beyond affords some romantic scenes. [The hills approach the river very nearly, and several iviews are caught between them, of the mountain I behind Windsor, which is about 2000 feet in height, I and divided into three peaks, whence, it is said, it derived the name of Ascutney, which, in the Indian I language, means three brothers. WINDSOR k a fine and flourishing town, in a very picturesque situation, particularly when viewed from the opposite side of the river ; and contains a good stage house, kept by Pettes, a number of stores, some elegant houses, two or three handsome churches, and the State Prison. This latter building is of granite, on the hill in the B b 2 290 ROUTE UP CONNECTICUT RIVEK. western part of the town. It is planned after the old and ill-devised system, (see pages 123 and 263,) but has one thing in its construction worthy of imitation : the stones are secured against removal, by having six- pound ctnnon shot placed between them, holes being cut into the stones lo receive them. In 1828, there were 123 convicts, who reimbursed, chiefly by weaving, nearly all the expenses. It is to be enlarged. Mount Ascutneu. — A great part of the way up this mountain a road has been cut, and the traveller will be richly rewarded for the labour of his ascent. From the nature of the soil, he cannot, indeed, expect to behold a scene like that from Moufst Holyoke ; but there is a great deal (hat is fine in the appearance of the surrounding country, rough, and interspersed with villages and cultivated tracts, with the Connecticut winding through it. Sumner's bridge, four miles above, was injured by the great flood of 1828. The Gulf Road. Those who are going westward from this part of the river, are counselled to take the Gulf Road !o Burlington, on Lake Champlain, to which a stage coach runs. Although the route is through the chain of the Green Mountains, the way is remarkably smooth and easy, followins: the courses of the White and On- ion rivers, which have cut deep channels through the rocks. You have, however, first to go 16 miles along the western bank of the Connecticut to White River. — Here great quantities of lumber are brought down, sawed on the stream, and sent by the Connecticut in rafts to the country below. Dartmouth College, at Hanover, is five miles north, and those who are going to the White Mountains, will of course pursue that route (see p. 294) ; but the following de- viation is made for those who are going to Lake Champlain. I THE GILF ROAD, 291 i'he road up the White River lies along the north bank, and passes through several beautiful and flourish- ing villa2:es. The valley, though narrow, is formed of : the richest soil, and wears the same aspect, in form, i fertility, and population, with the meadows of the Connecticut. This was one of the courses formerly , chosen by the Indians of the north in their commerce iwith those on the borders of that river, before the arrival of Europeans; and, with the exception of a short portage, between the White and Onion rivers, I they brought their furs from Canada by water. Du- iring the Indian and French wars, this route was fre- quently used for m >re hostile purposes ; and captives were taken from these settlements so late as the Revo- lutionary war. The scenery is interesting and various lall along the route. Royalton, a pretty village. This place was burned, I Oct. 16th, 1781, by 300 men, principally Indians, who jeame down from Canada. They killed two men and took away six prisoners to Montreal. I Randolph is considered one of the most beautiful j towns in Vermont, and a stage coach likewise passes that way. j Gulf. — The entrance of this remarkable passage .noin the east, is under the brow of an abrupt moun- |tain, whe»e a branch of White River flows along by ('he road in a gentle current, quite inadequate in its I present condition to such effiects as it has produced at 1 5ome former period, in parting this enormous barrier. ^It was not, however, by the gradual action of a di- ininutive stream like this, even when increased by the mnual floods, that such changes were made ; but by he pressure of a lake confinci among the mountains, »vhich here first found a channel. The Gulf road extends 6 miles, and the ground is ♦i ^o level that it has been proposed to make it the course 1 5f a c.mal. On the height of land is a pond, from I vvhich flows a stream into the vaHey. Part of it joins fihe White River, and part the Onion Ri?er. 'i"^^ ROtTE UP CONKECriCllT RIVER, Montpelier is the capital of Vermont, and a very pretty town. It contains the State House, a Court House, an Academy, and other public buildings.* A survey has lately been completed, of Onion River, from Lake Champlain, at Burlingjton, to Montpelier, a distance of 38 miles. It is ascctained that a canal may be made on three levels, the amount of fall at three points bein^ 394 feet. The height of Lake Champlain above the Hudson river, at Albany, is 86 feet. The elevation from Montpelier towards the Connecticut River, to Onion River Pond, was found to be 877 feet, and the fall thence to the mouth of Wells River on the Connecticut, 918 feet, making the Tivhole lockage from Lake Champlain to the Connecti- cut 2189 feet. By another route through Dog River, where there is a less abundant supply of water, and White River, to the mouth of the latter, the lockage is 1468 feet. From Montpelier to Burlington, the road pursues the course of Onion River nearly the whole distance, and aflfords a succession of hilly and mountainous sce- nery, such as is characteristic of the state. The river is in many places smooth and gentle, though occa- sionally interrupted by falls and rapids. * History of the Staff.— The first discovery of Vermont was made in l 1609, by Samuel Champlain, who, after establishing a colony at Q.uebec, proceedinc up the rivers St. Lawrence and Sorel, explored and gave his ©wn name to the lake h hich washes the western part of the slate. In i J724, the 2overnn)ent of Massachusetts erected Fort Dumnier, in the i town of Bratlkborough, on Connecticut river. The first settlement in the western part of the slate was commenced by the French in 1731, in | the town of Addison, and at the same lime they erected a fort at Crown Point. The government of New Hampshire began to make grants of townships within the present limits of Vermont in 1749, at which time ! the settlement of Bennineton was commenced, and at the same time a violent controversy ensued between the New Hampshire grants and the province of New-York. The first convention of the state met at Dor- set, in 1776, and the first constitution was ad()[)ted by a convention as eembled at Windsor in July, 1777, but tlie organization of tiie govern- ment did not take place until March, 1778. The difficulties between Vermont and New- York were amicably, set ♦led in 1790, and the next year she was admitted into the confederacy ol the states. In April, 18Q8, there were ten banks in Vermont, with .$949,844 in cir- 1 culation in notes. t \ iiaaover. 2i>3 On t}>c road iVom Montpelier ai'c two rcinarkable Water Falls, in the Onion River. They are so near the road that they will be heard in passing", and seen jby taking a few steps. The Upper Fall is in the midst of a wild scene, the water pouring over broken rocks, between two high and perpendicular banks. The [Lo-jver Fall is of a peculiar character : the stream is broken into foam, and rushes with great rapidity ; yet the channel is obstructed in such a manner by several large rocks, that the stream is turned alternately from i side to side, being dashed with violence against their ba- ses and thus forced into a zig zag course. A few miles before reaching Burlington, the road leaves the river, which bends away further towards the north. At its , mouth is an extensive and fertile meadow, which may 'bear a comparison with those on the Connecticut. ': Burlington is a large and beautiful town, and en- *|oys one of the finest situations on Lake Champlain. jThe ridire of the hill, on the declivity (tf which it is jbuilt, commands an extensive view up^'nthe lake, with the nu.'jierous mountains, which border its western shores, and a large expanse of water on the right and left. Immediately below is the bay, bounded by high jland; and the elegant dwellings and beautiful gar- idens of the wealthier inhabitants, ornamciit the fore- { ground. The Steamboats stop here on their way to Whitehall md St. John's (the route to Montreal ;) and the tra- ji^eller is referred to the Index for the objects on .]:he lake in those directions. [Returning to Connecti- hnt river J, IIA^'OVEK. This village, 21 miles above Windsor, is remarkable as the seat of 294 ROUTE rP CO^'NECTICT;T RIVER. DARTMOUTH COLLEGE, an institution which holds a very respectable rank for learning- and influence, the number of its pupils, and the ability of i's officers. It was founded tor the edu- cation of Indians, anl was named after William, Earl of Dartmouth. It possesses a large tract of land, which, however, is unproductive ; and thn college building, which is of wood, and not inhabited by the students, has an aspect of decay. The chapel is also of wood ; but several of the houses about the green are very neat, and the ground being elevated, the place is very pleasant. The bills for tuition here are g33 a year. The Medical Institution is a brick building, a little north from the square. The number of scholars in the college is generally about 140. i The road between Hanover and Haverhill, 28 miles, presents few objects of much interest ; the country not being thickly populated, and no villages inter- vening, except Oxford, which has several very neat housHS. Opposite Hanover, in Norwich, Vt. is a Military and Literary Academy, established by Capt. Par- tridge, which is continued since his removal toMiddle- to\Nn, Ct. The Strafford Copperas Works are nine miles north of Norwich. One of the buildings is 267 feet long. The ore is pyrites, taken irom a stratum in a hill overlaid by a crust of ferruginous earth cont: lining petrified leaves, &c. The ore is broken and thrown into h^aps, for about two months, when it gradually undergoes a chymical change, emitting spontaneous fire and fumes of sulphur. It is then leached in tubs, and the water,, after boiling, yields crystals of copperas, of a rhombic form and a beautiful green colour. The manufacto- ries produce about 10,000 tons annually. HAVERHILL. 295 tlAVERHILL. '^ There are three villages in this town, but the north- ern one is where the Boston road comes in, and where there are two good inns. The situation is elevated, and overlooks the meadows for some distance. The distant scenery is here very fine, as Moosehillock Mountain and several others are in plain view, and serve as an introduction to the White Mountains, which we are approaching. On the opposite side of the river i> Piermont, (and the traveller may cross or not,) where is a Sulphur Spring of some local celebrity, with a building for baths. Some distance south of it is a large house, in an agreeable situation, for the accommodation of vi- siters. It is capable of receiving a great many peo- ple, and has a garden and pleasant rustic walks about it. The stables are large, and great expense had been incurred, which has yet betn ill repaid. The Great Ox-bow is a meadow containing about 500 acres, lying in the town of Piermont on the west- ern bank, and in the form of a crescent. An iron mine has recently been discovered in this town. The soil is fine and valuable ; but fmm the comparatively small extent of the meadow, it cannot be compared with that of Hadley. There are two or three houses seen, belonging to the family of the first settler, who, as may be imagined, soon acquired wealth from so valu- able a tract of land. At Bath is the handsome residence of Hon. M. P. Payson, and an excellent inn kept by Carleton. From Bath to the White Mountains, there are two roads, one of which turns off through Lisbon, Little- ton,* Bethlehem, Breton Woods, Nash and Sawyer's Patent, and Shadbourn and Hart's Patent, * At Littleton is an excellent inn. Distance from Hanover, 60 railcp : from E. A. Crawford's,, 18. 296 ROLTE LP CONJNEOTKJLT iilVEK. Such is the -vvildness of Ihc country, that we can dc iittle more than enumerate the places. The road is new, in many places rocky, and in others rough, on ac- count of the logs which have been laid down to sup- port it, and the remains of the stumps of trees. But it is more direct and much less mountainous, than that which passes through Lancaster. It does not, how- ever, attord that fine view of the Connecticut Valley^ nor of the ranges of mountains which there surround it, like a magnificent amphitheatre. Franconia. This is a secluded village among the mountains, 5 miles from Bethlehem, where iron is ma- nufactured to a considerable extent. It is at the foot' of Haystack Mountain, which is about half-way be-i tween Mount Washington and Moosehillock — 20'milesi from each, Gibbs keeps an excellent inn at this! place ; and the stage coach passes twice a week, on,' the road to Concord and Boston by Plymouth, N. H.i The situation of the village, which contains 8 or 10 j families, is highly romantic, and it presents many fine| points of view. The Iron Mine is entered by a large I cavern, and is worthy of a visit. The Haystack may he ascended by any traveller disposed lor arduous enterprises of this description:! but it is not recommended in preference to the ascent of Mount Washington, which is rather less difficult. A footpath turns off from the road about 6 miles from Franconia, which conducts to the summit, 3 miles. The first twQ miles are through thick hemlock, hac nietac, spruce, kc. then i mile stunted trees, and the j'tjst bare rocks. Near the spot where the path begins is a remarkable Lusus NaiurcEj formed by a rock on, the side of a mountain, \yhich bears a resemblance toi the human face in profile. This eminence, callt'd Fro/ile Mountain, is 4 miles south of the lower iroi! works. Tlie forest shrubbery extends to the margin oi the bare rocks much in the proportion of the bust of; man. It is called the "0/^/ Man of the Mountain.' The precipice is 60.0 or 1000 feet high, and rises fro!^ the side of a pond, which is a source of the Pemige- ■\vasset river. The neighbouring region is so moun- tainous, that more than fifty peaks, it is said, may be counted from the top of the Haystack. Indeed the view from that eminence embraces nothing but moun- tains, with here and there a cleared spot on the Ply- mouth road, and numerous marks of slides or ava- lanches made by the inundation in 1826. Lancaster is a very pleasant town, and the last on the river which merits that name. The surrounding mountains form a noble scene, superior to every other of this nature along its course. I The Canada line is only 40 miles north, and lies dloui^ ihe Connecticut. The following are the towns jcind best inns : (Marshal's and Eames') Northumber- ' land ; (Porter's) in Stratford; (Mahurin's) Columbia ; (Chamberlain's) Colebrook ; and the last stage (Col. Eames') Stewartstown. [Having now completed the route up Connecticut River, we return to Long Island Sound. For other "outes and places, see Index.], NEW-LONDON, CONNECTICUT. 1 Entering New-London Harbour, (in a N. Y. steam- ; Doat,) on the left is the Lighthouse, and the dwelling \ )f Gen. North, once aid-de-camp to Baron Steuben. The shore beyond is inhabited by fishermen, whose joats (called smacks) are generally to be seen in great lumbers. Fort Trumbull occupies a point beyond, and is gar- ! isoned by the United States. It was taken in the re- i/olutionary war, as well as the town, and Fort Gris- \ void, which stands on the high hill opposite. Look- ng up the River Thames, the prospect is handsome, he b^nks beina: hiarh and cultivated, and backed hy 298 ROUTU FROM ^EW-YORK Td BO.^TOZs. Horlon's Hill several miles distant, in the Moheagan country. The harbour of New-London is one of the most accessible, safe, and commodious in the United States, lying near the Ocean and the Sound, almost surrounded by high land, and having water enouo:h for ships ot war quite up to the wharves, with a fine sandy bot- tom near the shores. Unfortunately, however, there is no convenient communication far into the country, and the region about it is far from being fertile, so that the place can never attain much importance. It serves in some degree as the port of Connecticut River, because there is no good harbour there; and a great deal of trade was carried on with the West Indies a ; few years ago. , New-London is the third town in Connecticut for the [ number of inhabitants, and like several of the others principal places, although so small, enjoys the pri-j vileges of a city. It is situated irregularly, princi-tj pally at the foot of a hill facing the east, and wears anj appearance of decline ; but some of the houses are^ handsome, and there are several fine situations near the top of the hill. There is a road hence to Providence, and another from Norwich, (13 miles up the Thames,) both equally uninteresting, and nearly of equal length. The rivei however, affords some very pretty scenes, and Nor wich is a neat and interesting town. The prices have hitherto been nearly the same for the two routes. Fort Griswold, opposite New-London, was garri- soned by a few continental troops in the year 1781 the Revolution, when Benedict Arnold, after his trea- cherous desertion of the American cause, appeared ofii the harbour with a British force on the 6th of Sep- tember ; and landing 800 men on each point of the harbour, marched up and took Fort Trumbull, and burnt the town. Col. Ej're, who commanded the troops on the eastern shore, proceeded towards Forti THE PEQUOUS. 2^9 (.riswold, and sending in a flag of truce, demanded a surrender. But before this time, Col. Ledyard had entered the fort, and garrisoned it with 120 men, chiefly militia volunteers from the neighbourhood. The British troops had advanced under cover of a wood, and in- vested the fort ; but the Americans defended them- selves for some time, beating off their enemies once, and finally surrendered, when resistance would have been entirely useless. The enemy had lost 41 officers and men, who were buried near the spot ; with Col. Ayres, the commander, wounded, and Maj. Montgo- mery killed. After the surrender, however, a mas- sacre of the prisoners took place, which cast the deep- est disgrace on the expedition: 70 officers and men I being the victinis, most of whom were heads of fami- lies. Many of the wounded were also treated in a intiost barbarous manner, being placed in a cart, and ! rolled down the hill just south of the present road to the fort. Arrangements have been made for building by subscription a monument on the spot. It is to be m obelisk, 120 feet high, to cost about $14,000. The objects on the Thames, at Norwich, &c. will be taken up on page 301. Road from New -LosDo^ to Providence. { Fort Hill is a commanding eminence, about 4 miles east from this place, and derives its name from a Pe- ' juod Fort, which formerly occupied its summit. The I'oad crosses it near the southern limit of the fort, and i small church stands a quarter of a mile above, within ihe extensive space once enclosed by that palisaded jtvork. It was the great fortress of the terrible Pequod nation, which makes a very conspicuous figure in the jarly history of the eastern colonies. They had fought i.heir way from the interior, and seated themselves in he present limits of Groton, where the few poor re- nains of their de?cendants still are found. On the oOO KOLtH IKOSI 5yfEVV-Y0RK TO BOSTOi\. arrival of the English, ^they had extended their coh- quests a considerable distance up Connecticut River, and the Eastern and Western Nehantics on the coast xv^re subject to theni. In consequence of the murders they had committed, and the attacks with which they threatened the infant settlements at Hartford, Windsor, and Wethersfield, the inhabitants formed an expedition in the sprinsi ot 1637, led by Capt. Mason, attacked their other fort on the Mystic, burnt it, and killed about 600 persons : after which the nation tied from their country ; and hav- ing: suffered another terrible slaughter in the swamp at Fairfield (see that place) were reduced to slavery, and ceased from that time to be an object of terror. This hill commands an extensive and delightful view, being almost entirely clear of obstructions, and being superior in height to the neighbouring hills. A considerable extent of Long Island and the Sound are , overlooked from the summit, with various islands, bays, ' and points on the Connecticut coast. At the time oi ] the burning of Mystic Fort, it was occupied by the , chief Sachem Sassacus, who hastened to the relief of ; his subjects, but arrived too late to render them any f assistance. On his return here, he burnt the wig- j wams and palisadoes, and immediately fled for refuge to the Mohawks, by whom he was beheaded. Mystic, 7 A miles. Stonington, 10 miles. On descending the hill which leads into this village, Porter's Rock, 30 or 40 feet high, is seen a little off the road on the right-hand. Under the shelter of itj it is said, Capt. Mason encamped with his little army^ on the niffht of May 26, 1637, old style, a few hours before his successful attack on the second Pequod Fort, which was on the top of a hill about two miles south of this place. During the last war, a small fort in this town was •-t.tnnjced by a «hip and two briers of Com, .Hardy% THE KIVER THAMES. 301 squadron, and defended by the inhabitants with great ■ gallantry. HopkintoUyW miles. I West Greenwich, 15 miles. Centrevillcj 2 miles. [Here are two cotton manufactories, about half a ; mile apart, and two weaving shops, with their little settlements, principally inhabited by the w^ork peo« pie.] j Providence, II miles. (iSce page 309.) THE RIVER THAMES. Steamboat Route from New-London to Norwich. [ A little above New-London, there is a singular rock, I on the east side, where the explorers of the river are said to have landed, and to have been attacked by the I Pequods. The Moheagan country lies above, on the I west side, with HortorCs Hill, on the top of which Uncas had a fort, something of which still remains. I It is a very commanding position, and overlooks the j surrounding country. During the late war, the govern- ' ment ships Macedonian, United States, and Hornet, I which were in the river, lay moored here for a length I of time, and their guns were drawn up by oxen to the j top of the hill, on the east shore, above the little cove. ' A small battery was also constructed on the little spur j projecting from the hill in front. 3 or 4000 militia were stationed on the opposite shore for their further security. Massapeague Point, just above. Here the river is I quite narrow, opening northward into a small lake. ' There is a small island on the eastern shore, on which is a ^tone cottage, built by the soldiers for a I poor family which resided here during the war. It lies at the entrance of a pretty cove, which makes up a mile. Commorlore Decatur brought the ships up C c2 302 ROUTE FK03I T^EVV-VORK TO B0ST0I\. here, for still greater security ap:ainstthe British cruis- ing off New-London harbour. The place where they lay is KiaK's Cove, a mile above the island. Above this place, the river has been impeded by sand, washed down by the Shetucket River, and attempts are mak- ing" to remedy it by building piers. Trading Cove, 1 mile above Kiah's Cove, is a hand- some little bay, making up into the Indian country, and derived its name from the barter formerly carried on here between the white men and the Moheagans. Un- cas, the Sachem of Moheagan, was believed to be of Pequod descent, but in a state of successful revolt at the time the English became acquainted with him. His chief residence was near this cove, now the centre of the Indian Reservation; but the burying ground of the royal family was near Norwich Landing (which is in sight from this place). He had conquered the country as far north as about the present Massachusetts line, but became an early friend of the whites, and rendered them important services, particularly in war, as well as his successors, the later Moheagan Chiefs. Before this part of the state was settled, Uncas was once so closely besieged by his enemies the Pequods, tha. ue suffered extremely from a scarcity of provisions, and ,vas relieved only by the care of a man named Leffingvve!!, who \vas despatched from Connecticut whh a boat loc.d.,awith provisions. In gratitur" - Un- cas gave him a large part of the present town oi -.Nor- wich for this important service. There is a rock still pointed out on the shore, and called Uncas' Chair, where the Sachem is said to have set and watched the arrival of his friends. On the south side, Trading Cove is bounded by Nab Cooper's Hill, an appellation somewhat quaint for a neighbourhood not deficient in romantic association. Beyond is Fort Hill, which derived its name from a little place of strength erected in old limes by the In- dians, as a protection against other nations small like themselvci. The poor remains of thistribe reside on ■ xNORWICfl. 303 the lands secured to them by the state g-overnment, and live in all the i2:norance, idleness, and thriftlessness common to Indians in this part of the country : nselan- choly testimonies of the degradation to which the most active human minds may sink when eveiy customary impulse to exertion has been stifled, and no new in- citement extended. An Indian could formerly equal or surpass his companions by an extraordinary display of swiftness and skill in the chase, or conduct and cou- rage in war; and what exertions were not made for jthe attainment of such distinction? Red men have traversed these beautiful shores in the pursuit of game, or the tracks of their enemies, and suffered all the se- ; verities of climate and privation, of wounds and of tor- Iture, for those white men whose sons now neglect and i despise their descendants, and coldly question their (capacity for improvement. NORWICH. Stage Coaches go on to Providence and Boston, and there are others in different directions. It contains three villages, of which Chelsea Landing •is the principal, and is remarkable for its singular si- tuation, as well as for its appearance of business, which is much favoured t'y the numerous manufactories in ;he neighbouring country. The Plain is about a mile liorth, and a very pleasant place. ■■\ On the way thither is seen the Cove, at the upper ^ind of which are the Falls of Yantic, a stream which ?ours over a ledge of granite about 40 teet high, and upplies several manufactories with water. The place s highly picture-que. A rock, 70 or 80 feet in height, )verhangs the stream, whence a number of Narragan- t|;ett Indians once precipitated themselves when pur- iiued by the Moheagans. ^ The Burying Ground of the Uncases is on the ele- 'ated bank north of the Cove, on the grounds of Judge joddard. There are stones marking the graves of 304 ROUTE PROM NEW-YORK TO BOSTON. numerous members of the royal family of the Mohea- gans, and a few of them bear English inscriptions. The family is now extinct, with the exception of one or two degenerate beings, who have nothing but their name to boast of. Uncas, the old friend of the white men, is buried here. He and his nation were the only steady allies they ever found among the Indians, steady and powerful enough to render theai very essential service. He was a man of extraordinary ta ent, and withal extremely politic ; but he refused to join the ge- neral insurrection under King Philip in 1675, and died a friend of the white men. This plain was the principal summer residence o) the Moheagans. The Flannel Factory is 146 feet by 40, 5 stories high. .with a bleaching house, and dying house, and makes 5000 yards a week. There are also the Carpet, PoU tcry. Paper, and other factories. ' The Cotton Manufactory is a very large establish- ment, under the bank and at the mouth of the Yantic The position is well selected, and the sum expendec in buildings and machinery very great. It is ownec by a company in Boston, from which city a vast amounj of capital has been expended in all parts of Newl England for similar objects, as the traveller will havti opportunity to perceive as he proceeds. The manufacturing village, although recently builr contained, in 1827, 800 inhabitants. About a milliosl and a half of dollars have been invested here. IBOc- bales of cotton were manufactured annually, producing) more than a million yards of doth ; 5 or 600 tons o| iron made into nails, nail-rods, &-c. and 150 or 200 ton of castings made from pig iron. 10,000 reams of pape have been made in a year, besides machinery, linsee< oil, &c. Here are two sch )ol-houses an'^ two churches Canal. Surveys were made in 182& for a Canal t run from Norwich parallel to Connecticut River, up th Quinebaugh River to Massachusetts. The supply c water is considered abundant at all seasons, and th JEWETT S CITY. oUo tract 01 country through which it is to pass extremely favourable to the execution of such a design, as well as by its fertility and population, encouraging to its suc- I cess. It is to pass through the following towns : Spring- field, Palmer, Western, Brookfield, Sturbridge, South- bridge, and Dudley, to the Quinebaugh. In 1828 an J association was formed to petition the Legislature for jjassistance in this project. ] Road from Norwich to Providence. The road follows the course of the Quinebaugh Ri- ver for some distance, through a hilly tract of country, and near a fine cataract in that stream. At the distance p( li miles from Norwich, it passes 1 SacheirCs Field. This is an elevated plain, on which H battle was fought in the year 1643, between about |)00 Narraganset's, (who inhabited Rhode Island,) and 300 or 600 Moheagans. The Sachem of the former, Miantonimo, intending to chastise Uncas for his adhe- ence to the English, secretly advanced into his country vith an army ; but Uncas was aware of his approach, >nd met him on this plain where both parties lialted. Uncas resorted to a stratagem. He stepped forward jilone, and challenged Miantonimo to decide the quar- I el single-handed. This, as he expected, was retused ; hnd while his enemies were nr.t prepared, be gave a ;|.ignal by falling down, when his men instantly set up ji yell, discharged their arrows, and rushed lorward. jThe Narragansetts fled, and many of them were killed. Jncas captured Miantonimo himself, but the haughty ndian would not ask for quarter nor speak a word. ie was taken to Hartford, and after a trial, was deli- 'ered to Uncas for execution. He was brought back : this place, and while marching across the field was I omahawked on a spot a little east of the road, where ! heap of stones for many years marked the place of :is burial. fjffiWftfs City is a small manufacturing place, 7 mile':, ,306 ROUTE PROM NEVV-SrORK TO BOSTON. from Norwich. There are three cotton manufactories here, one with 2000 spindles. Plainfield is a pleasant village ; the inn is large and good, and overlooks a fertile plain, through which is the route of the proposed canal to Brookfield, Alass. On crossing the line to Rhode Island, the country be- comes uninteresting. The farmers are poor and negli-j gent ; there are no villages deserving of the name, and nothing worthy of particular notice, except one or two small manufactories. Providence. See page 309. NEWPORT. This place possesses one of the best harbours in the United States. The entrance is guarded by the Dum- plings Fort and Fort Adams; and the scenery about it| is agreeable. Fort Adams on Brenton's Point is to become one of the most important fortresses in the great plan of coast( defences, which have been for some years in the pro- gress of construction. This fortress was to cost, on an estimate, $170,000, and is to embrace, when completed, an extent of 130 acres. A range of guns is to line the shore towards the west as far down as the first rising! ground. The outer wall will be 40 feet in height, and extend nearly three-quarters of a mile, enclosing about 19 acres. The outline of the works is now easily seen.i They will be able to mount 150 cannon, in connexion with the redoubt, which is to be erected on a neigh- bouring hill. Thus the fort would be prepared for an; attack on all sides, should it be made. The founda- tions and trenches have been cut into rock or hara clay. There is also a range of subterranean galleries cut in rock. Other works, in connexion with Fort Adam?, are prf>- rsEWPORT. oUT pused on the opposite shore, the Dumpling Islands, &,c. which would render the port secure as the princi- pal rendezvous for our navy north of the Chesapeake, for which it is designed by the government. If not entirely secure from a land attack, the neighbouring country would soon afford it abundant relief. This fort is thought not inferior, either in plan or importance, to any, unless Fort Calhoun. Fort Wolcott is on Goat Island, opposite the town. Newport extends about a mile along the shore, but presents the aspect of decay, as the commerce has been removed to Providence. The situation has many advantages; and this with the cheapness of rent has begun to render it the temporary abode of many strangers during the warm season. The Bellevue Ho- tel enjoys a tine situation. The Windmill, an old stone tower on the top of tlie hill, is a conspicuous object, although long disused. There are four churches visible ; and the Library, a small but neat and correct specimen of architecture in the upper part of the town, is worthy of attention. The houses of the town are thickly clustered about the water, but make rather a gloomy appearance on account of the want of paint and repair ; the place having experienced a gradual declension produced by the success of Providence, 30 miles further up. The Poor House is on Coaster's Harbour Island, about a mile above the town, seen in passing in the steamboat. The island belongs to the town, and con- tains 80 acres. The building is three stories high, of stone, and contains 50 or 60 poor. Those who are able, work on the land, and others at different manufactures; but most of them are women, and some superannuated. The keeper receives fitly cents a week tor the board of each, which is paid by the town, to which the pro- ducts of the labour are credited. Since this esta- blishment has been formed, the expenses of the poor to the town have been reduced one-half. , The beach behind the town, like the whole circuit o08 KOUTE FROM iNEW-YdKK TO JiOSTo.S of the city on the land side, was defended by a line of. troops, batteries, &c. during the possession of it by the English in the revolutionary war; and the opposite high grounds were occupied by the American army, whose head-quarters were on Taumony hill, a mile and a half, or thereabouts, from the town ; an elevation which affords an extensive view on every side. Gen. Prescott was taken here during the war, by a bold party of men under Col. Barton, who landed secretly from a boat in the night, went to the British head-quarters, and conveyed their captive away, before the land or naval forces, then in the harbour, could prevent them. The place was blockaded by the British fleet. During the possession of the place by the enemy, the trees, as well as about 900 houses, were cut down for fuel; and although the island is admirably calculated for the growth of fruit trees, and was, before that pe- riod, quite covered with the finest orchards, it is now so divested of trees of every description, as to appear remarkably naked and monotonous for an American scene. The fertility of the ground, and the excellence of the crops, however, as well as the neatness and precision with which the fields are cultivated, and re- gularly divided by fine stone walls, present a picture of agricultural beauty rarely paralleled in the United States. The island, 14 miles long, and not 3 wide, contained in 1827 more than 30,000 sheep. Fort Green is a little battery erected on the water's] edge, about a mile above the town. Mount Hope, famous as the ancient royal residence of the Wampanoag Indians, and particularly as the abode of King Philip, and the scene of his death, b seen from a few miles beyond Newport, towards the Dorth-west. It rises in Warren, on the shore of an arm. of the bay, and will be particularly described here- ufter. The view of it is soon afterward cut off by the intervention of Prudence Island, which is about five miles in length, and presents the same fertile soil anc ^ntly SAvelling surface as that of Hhode Island. Th« PKOVIDKACi:. oOl' Uibabitanis are few, as are those of Patience and Hope ; islands of a much smaller size. Despair is a cluster of rocks on the left, near the island ot Hope, the north end of which is 20 miles from Pro- vidence. Rhode Island Coal Mine. An extensive mine of an thracite, or incombustible coal, was opened a few years since near the north end ot" the island, in Portsmouth, about 2 miles from Bristol Ferry. It was not exten- sively used, however, and the work was speedily- abandoned. The property has passed into other hands within two or three years ; and since the anthracites of Pennsylvania have become so valuable, about 40 hands have at some periods been employed in digging- it, and about 100 tons of all sorts of coal have been ^ot out in a week. The vein which is wrought is ibout 4200 teet one way, 115 another, and 4 feet in hickness. It lies on an inclined plane ; and three )ther veins are supposed to be of equal extent. Ne>v-York being the great market tor coal, this mine 3 very onvenientiy situated ; lying within 800 yards if the river, where sloops come up to a wharf and load. The excavations are liable to be flooded in I vet weather, by which the working has been a good leal impeded. It is necessary that fireplaces should le constructed Oi> the plan of a furnace to burn this 1 oal, as it requires a high degree of heal to ignite it. PROVIDENCE. This is the second city in New-England, both in opuLition, wealth, and beauty. It contained, in 1825, bout 16,000 inhabitants, and is beautitully as well as dvantas:eously situated at the head ot^ navigation, on I le river of the same name. It contains several hand- |)me churches, a theatre, an arcade, (on Westminster- reet,) and many fine hou-ses. n d lU ROUTE FROM iXEW-YORK TO BOdTOK Brown University, the greatest institution of learning in the state, is built on the summit of a high hill, the ascent to which is not very easy, although it is laid out in streets, deco- rated with some of the finest houses in this part of the country, dispersed among spacious gardens, and mingling the delights of the country with the splen- dour of a city. There are two brick buildings be- longing to this institution, which command fine pros- pects. In 1828 the number of graduates was 27. The town was settled by Roger Williams, who left the old colonies in consequence of a disagreement in religious doctrines. He built his house on the shore, near the present Episcopal church. Many of the society of Quakers or Friends afterward joined him, whose descendants form a large share of the popula- tion of the state. The Academy is a large institution, near the College, established by the Friends. On Eddy's Point, it was lately said, was the only cotton manufactory in the United States worked by steam. ' This state, having severely suffered from the want of public schools, has recently taken laudable mea-, sures to supply the deficiency ; and the towns are hereafter to be supplied. An Infant School has been. established in Providence. \ (For Plymouth, see Index.) [Taunton, 32 miles from Boston, next above Dighton.! A great quantity of cotton is manufactured here, and. there are extensive works in iron. The power is sup-; plied by 5 dams on the west branch of Taunton river. About 1500 tons of iron are manufactured here every year, 1200 tons into nails, 300 into plates, hoops, and machinery. From 1500 to 2000 pieces of calico print? 3rAXLFA0T0TUES. 311 are turnished by the cotton manufacturers, &c. weekly. Annually 800,000 yards of No. 30 cotton cloth are made ; and 50,000 lbs. of yarn, all out of 800 bales of cotton. About 700 persons are employed with 7000 spindles and 200 looms. The highest manufactories up the river are built of wood ; the next of stone ; the 'third of brick. There are two br ck dams , and the printing establishment is among the last. There is also a manufactory of Britannia ware, &c. Sampson's Hotel, at M-irlbofougB Ponds, is a plea- sant resort, half-way to New-Bedlord.] Manufactories in New-England. There are said to 'be about 400 buildings in this section of the United "States, devoted to the spinning, weaving, and print- ing of cotton ; 135 for Massachusetts ; 110 for Rhode Island ; 80 for Connecticut ; 50 f<.r New -Ha ^pshire ; 15 for Maine ; 10 for Vermont. They were sup- posed to contain on an average 700 spindles : which fives a total of 280,000. They worked peihaps 280 ays in a year, and used 140 lbs. of raw cotton to each spindle : which would give a total of 39,200,000 lbs. or 98,000 bales. In one-third of the manufactories the weaving is done by power looms ; in one-third by hand ; and the others send their yarn to the middle and southern states, where it is woven by h md under contractors, or in families. Business has declined. Not more than 275 cotton manuf rctories are supposed to be in operation in the remaining parts of the United States. Wool and Woollen in the United States. — It was con- jectured in 1827 that about 100 millions of dollars were invested in sheep and sheep lands in this country ; the number of sheep at 15 millions, and 100 millions em- ployed in manufacturing wool. By the last census there were, in Dutchess county, N. York, more than 450,000 sheep, which would give a surplus for other markets of 500,000 lbs. of wool annually. From 800,000 to a million of sheep were estimated to have been wintered in (he state of Maine in 1826, '27 : 3'2 312 ROUTE FROM KEW-YORK TO EOSTOK. millions of pounds were supposed to be worked up that year in the United States, giving full or partial employment to 100,000 persons. In boring the earth in this town, in 1828, from the €nd of the earth, the auger passed through the arti- ficial soil — then through a stratum of mud — then through bog meadow, containing good peat — then through sand pebbles and quartz gravel. At this point water impregnated with copperas and arsenic broke forth ; next struck a vineyard and dre » up vines, grapes, grape seeds, leaves, acorns, hazlenuts, ^ine burs and seeds of unknown fruits, together with pure water. This was 35 ieet below the bed of the river ! Rail Route from Providence to Boston. — A year or two since, a survey of the country between these two cities was made under the authority of the Legislature of Massachusetts, for the purpose of ascertaining the practicability of a railroad. The middle route \»as proposed, beecintiing on Front-slreet or near the Common in Boston, proceeds on the west side of Boston Neck, through Roxbury, west part of Dor- chester, east part of Dedlvim, middle of Walpole and Foxborou^h, a corner of Mnnsneld and Attlehorough City to Pawtuckef; crosses the river near Central Falls, proceeds through the east part of Providence to India Point, thence may be extended to Water-s(reet — or it may come to India bridge, on the Massachusetts side, and there terminate, or cross the river near that bridge to Fox Point. The whole distance fron; Boston to Fox Point, by Central Falls, is 43 miles aid 48 chains : cost of single road 334,000 dollars — double road 649,513 dollars. Greatest rate of inclination would be 30 feet in a mile. The amount of ascent and descent on the route to Fox Point, by Central Falls, is 879 feet. The amount of merchandise annually transported between the two cities was estimated at 1700 'ons by hndj and 3400 by water, besides a large amount fou l»AWTl3CIvET. olo 'shorter distances. In 1828, $82,000 were received by the agents of one of the lines of stage coaches between these two cities. Bla« KSTONE Canal. This canal, whirh was completed in 1828, and 'extends to Worcester, Mass. runs alorig the course of the Blackstone River for several miies. That stream is seen on leaving Providenc , and lie- west of the road to Boston. The road now in use is new, and shorter than the old, but avoids several villages which that passes through, and presents very few objects worthy of notice. The Blackstone Canal is 45 miles long, 18 feet wide at he bottom, and 34 feet at the surface. There are 48 locks, all built of stone, which iovercome a rise a.d fall of 450 feet. The size of the locks is 82 feet in length, and 10 in breadth ; and the cost of the whole work was about $550,000. The water is chiefly derived from the Blackstone river ; but there are large iionds at different parts of the route which can be drawn upon at any time. Soon i after the opening of the navigation, a quantity of cherry 1 plank and joist was received here from a vast distance i west. It grew in Michigan or Ohio, at the head of Lake I Erie ; from whence it was shipped down the lake to I Buffalo, thence by the Erie Canal to Albany, from that J place to Providence b)' sioop navigation, and from Pro- '\ vidence to this place by the Blackstot-e canal, a distance, ^ in the whole, of at least nine hundred miles, four hun- dred miles of which is an artificial navigation. Pawtucket is one of the largest manufacturing places in thi« part of the country, and has in* reased surprisingly within a few years. The banks of the river are varied and somewhat romantic ; while the fall, which is under Dd2 314 ROUTE FROM TCEW-YORK TO BOSTOa. the bridg:e, furnishes a most valuable water power* Cotton is principally nnanufactured here, though here is machinery devoted to other purposes. The influx of strang:ers, manv of them poor an«< ignorant foreigners, and most of 'hem removed from the wholesome restraints of a better society, has produced unfavour^sble effects on hahits and morals; which is the worst fea- ture in the manufacturing: system. The first spinning by machinery in this country vras done on a very smal! machine in 1785, in Providence. The road between Providence and Pawtucket, 4 miles, is one of the best in the United States ; as the law requires that all the income above 10 per cent, shall be devoted to repairs ; and the travelling- is very great, [t is hard and smooth, and is to be furnished with a convenient side-walk the whole distance. Pa-Mucket is the first viilagTi near the canal and con- tains 8 or 10 cotton factories. At Central Falls, 3 miles above, 4 io. Valley Falls, a short di*^t;.nce above, 4 do. Next come Kel'ey'sand the A'bion fac- tories ; then Mansfield, where are two factories, one 45 feet by 150, and 5 sto-ies hig:h, of pressed brick. A mine of anthracite coal has been found near the canal. At Woonsocket Falls the descent of die river is 33 feet in a short distance, an.^ affords fine sests for ma- chinery, equal to Pawtucket. There are cotton and woollen factories here. The canal passes through the village of Cumberland, and ris- s by three locks, of 11 feet lift, constructe ) of granite. There are two other factories n^^ar this place ; and four at Bartlett's falls above, with a Scythe factory. At SlatersviUe is a factory 4fi feet by 153, and 5 stories high, of hammered granite. All these esta- blishments, from Central Falls to SlatersviUe, are in the township of Smithfield, which abounds in valuable limestone. Mendon. Here is Farnem's woollen factory, and a cotton factory, without mentioning several other esta- blishments off the river. The Blackstone Factory, or BLACKSTOXE CANAL, 315 Mammoth, can make about 5000 yards of sheeting dally. A little above are two other factories. IJxhridge, Here are factories of kerseymere, sat- tinet, &c. Roeerson's factory is one of the first in the state. It cost about ^140,000. There is a remarkable aspect of neatness and beauty pervading the esta- blishment and the village. There are several beautiful little ponds formed by art, the margins of which, as well as of the rivtr, have a very pretty aspect. Northhrid^e. Here are t\V(» factories. Ho 'brook woollen factory makes about 300 yards of sattinet a day, and Dennis' about 100. A quarry of granite is opened about 200 yards from the canal ; and that ma- terial abounds in this region. Grafton, Here is a fall of 51 feet. 400 yards of sattinet are made in one establishment her*-. Here are to be seen the New-England Manufacturing Com- pany's buildings, where the\ make duck and twine from both flax aad hemp. This is on ihe eastern road to Providence, and 6 rniles from Worcester. The Great Reservoir is just above. I' is formed by damming the Quinsigamond pon i and four other ponds, by a single dam. This sets the water back so far as to cover more than 2000 acres ; and keeps an abundant supply always at disposal. At tVilkinsonvilie is a large cotton manufactory ; and at Milburyj a little way beyond, 300 yards of woollen are made daily. Within a short distatice are also aianufactories of cotton, scythes, and guns. Worcester. Here are large paper mills, five machine jihops, &(.. &c. {See Index.) Aitlehorough. The inn stands on the spot once oc- pupied by a block hou r, built on the frontier of the j Indian country before Philip's war. Opposite is an 'jld bury mg ground, which contains the body of the jirst man killed here by the savages. The largest 'Button Manufactory in the U. States is in this town, i Walpole. Here the stage coaches usually stop to iine or breakfast. >16 ROUTE FROM NEW-YORK TO BOSTON. Dedharrif 10 miles from Boston, is a large andbeau^ tiful village, with rei^ular ciiid well built street?;, and some quite elegant houses. Fisher Ames lived in the second house on the left-hand, as you enter the village. [Blue Hills. This is a pleas.u.t nireat, a^out '• n\i!es from the city of Boston, and much resorted to in the sumj.'ier Sr.ison ; as a iarae house o entertainment has been recently erected at the tool of the mountain, whence the place derives its nanse ; and the sunmiit, which is considered 800 feet above the le^el o. the ocean, commands a fine and extensive view. A small house has also been built on the top, where the view is the finest, for the temporary repose and supply of visiters. On the northern side, the view embraces, in a clear day, the Green Mountains in Vermont, and the White Mountains in Ne^v-Hanjpshire, with a wide extent of country between : INahant, and in general, all Boston Bay, is seen eastwardly, and near at hand.] The hills are seen on the right tVom the road, a kw miles south of Boston. (^uincy Railway. This is the first work of the kind which was constructed in the United States. It is 3 miles long, and leads from the quarries of granite to navigable water, for the transportation of stone to Boston. The railway and the quarries will be found worthy of a visit. The descent from the commence- ment to the wharf is 86 feet ; breadth 5 feet from the inside of one rail to the inside of the opposite one ; a horse path between the two rails 4 feet 4 inches wide. The plank rails are of pine 10 inches in height, with caps of red oak 2 inches thick, by 3 inches width. The sleepers, or tranverse beams are of granite, 7 feet long, on which the rails rest ; these sleepers are at distances of 8 feet apart. The wrought iron rails are laid on the red oak caps, and are '2 inches wide, and 3-8ths of an in. thick : 27 tons 3 cw 1. 14 lbs, of iron, including screws, are used to each mile, making short of 82 tons of iron for the 3 m. This railway was opened for use on the 16th September, 1826. and has been KOXBURY. 317 since constantly used for the transportation of granite— generally 60 tons per day. One horse has drawn 22 tons, including the weight of the two wagons, from the quarry down to the wharf; but the ordinary load of a horse is from 12 to 15 tons. One horse usually draws 2 wagons. By way of experiment, one horse drevY 13 tons up an elevatioti at the rate of 66 feet 6 inches in the mile, a distance of 200 feet. A load of 24 tons in 3 wagons passed on the railway, which did not appear to shake the rails at all. The wheels of the wagons are 6 feet in diameier ; the axle tree 3 inches in diameter. Weight of wagons, 3500 pounds each. Four beautiful columns were taken from the granite quarries, in 1828, of solid masses, for the new church in Quincy. They are 25 feet long, 4 feet 2 inches in diameter at the base, S^at top, and supposed to weigh 25 tons each. Roxhury. On the Neck which leads to Boston, we pass the remains of the intrenchments thrown up by General Washington, in 1776, to shut the British troops up in the town ; and a little beyond them is the place where Gen. Gage previously drew his line ; across, to command the communication between it and [the country. The country on both sides retains marks af the American forts, redoubts, &c. and Dorchester Heights on the east are crowned with the works thrown dp by Washington, which commanded Boston and the anchorage; and forced the enemy to evacuate the I place. Embarking here in their fleet, they went around to Long Island, and soon after entered New- STork. [See page 322,] [Several rout'.s have been proposed for a canal, to 38 cut from Boston Harbour to Narragansett Bay, 5uch a work would save the exposed navigation ] 'ound Cape Cod.] l^ crrr OF EosTOiv. BOSTON. Hotels. Tremont House.* The Exchange. Marl- borough Hotel, &LC. Boston contains an uncommon proportion of fine buildings, particularly private residences: for it not only possesses much wealth, ''Ut ;ns(< much taste and puhlic spirit. The finest bnildii,;;? are of whitish eranite, brought from the shores of the Merrimack lliver, being found in abundance at different places, from Chelmsfoni to Concord, N. H. I' is transported to Boston by the Middlesex canal, and is no' only beautiful and lasting, but obtained at a moderate price. It is found very durable when exposed only to the ele- ments : but fire soon disintegrates and ruins it. The' Quincy granite is also excellent. The AthencEum. Underthe patronageof wealthy and' generous frends of the arts and sciences, for whom^ Boston has long been conspicuous, this valuable col- lection of books, coins, and medals has by rapid de- grees risen to a grade of eminence among the 'ibrariesl of the country. In addition to the numerous and vo- luminous works before in the possc'^sion of the insti4 tution, subscriptions have been made within a fewH years to procure complete copies of the transactions of the Royai Societies and Academies of Sciences inl London, Ldinbuigh, Dublin, Paris, Petersburg. Berlin, Turin, Gottin^en, Stockholm, Copenhagen, Madrid^ and Lisbon. The cataloiiue of 1827 contains 'iS, 000 volumes. Any person, by payinof $10 a year, may enjoy (he liberty of readin^L books in the roo-ns of this| institution ; but only proprielors and life subscribers! have the privilege of taking diem away. The libraryi however is free to strangers introduced by proprietorss and may then be visited by them alone at any time. * Tremont House is the most splendid hotel in the United States. It makes a line appearance, contains 180 rooms, and is conducted on an excellent plan. A part of the establishment is appropriated to private parties and families, and has a distinct access, through a different sfref! aitb no i.-onimnnication with the main bodvof the building. CITY OF BOSTON. UM Most of the valuable periodical magazines of Europe are regularly received ; as well as those of the United States, and newspapers from all parts ot the country. The Exhibition and Lecture rooms are in a building in the rear. The Vcademy of Arts and Sciences have a room on the first floor, and there is a picture gallery on the second. The JVew Market is constructed of granite, and is of the fonowing dimensions: a cetitre building 74i feet by 55, with wings, extending in all 536 feet, with a fine facade at each end, with granite columns of single pieces, 21 feet high, and v^eighing each 14 or 15 tons ; a row of granite buildings on each side, 4 stories high, for stores, more than 500 feet. In State-street are the Banks,* Insurance Offices, and 'Change. The Common is a fine piece of ground, on the south- western side of the city, and one of its greatest orna- ments. The surface is agreeably varied by a few *ent!e undulations, and it is decorated with rows of nandsome dwelling houses on two sides, while on the ihird it is bounded by the bay of Charles River, and iffords an extensive view in that direction, embracing [i tract of cultivated hilly country. A range of buildings near the south end of the Common, berirs the name of I Colonnade How, in consequence of their being all I dike rurnished with white columns. J The State House is the principal object seen in ap- i broaching the city, and stan-ls o'\ a considerable emi- nence at the north side of the Common. It has a Joul;le range of columns in front of the main building, .nd a large dome on the top, to which a somewhat ntricate staircase leads, affording the most extensive 'iew of Boston and the suiTounding country which is be found. * In Boston there are 17 banks, exclusive of tne U. S. Branch, ''hese banks, or rather 14 of them, have in circulation bills bearing nterest to the amount of $3,493,142 42. The amount of all debts due *ie whole of them, exclusive of balnnces duy f'-am the banks i~ 18..50t.559 3.";. Chantrey^s Statue of Wasliington. in this beautit'ut specimen of the genius and skill of the greatest British sculptor, Boston possesses a treasure. It was finished and sent to America in 18-27, and a npw apartment was constructed for its reception, adjoining: the Doric Hail in the State House. The total expense of the statue and building amounted to about $16,000. The sculptor received of this $10,000. The entrance from the Hall into the edifice is ^l^rough arched pas- sages, which afford the visiter a full view in ap- proaching and from various points. The hills at Dorchester, Roxbury, Brighton, Cam- bridge, Charlestovvn,* &c. together with the numerous islands which pro*eci the harbour, form an amphi- theatre, very regular and beautiful, when seen from the top of the State House ; and the villages which are seen in every direction, almost entirely line the shore. The mingling of land and water in this scene is very fine ; and it is easy, at a glance, to compre- hend the plan of the various measures adopted during the Revolutionary war, for the defence and the cap- ture of the place. The JVavy Yardy at Charlestown, encloses 60 acres, and enjoys many advantages in its situation. It has a high stone wall on the north ; and near the water stand a large warehouse of brick, several arsenals, maga- zines of stores, the residence of the superintendent, and three very large ship-houses, each large enough to hold a hundred-gun vessel, with the stages, &c. The Dry Dock is very large. The foundation is made with piles, driven three feet apart, supporting layers of timber, plank, and stone. The stone work will amount to about 500,000 cubic feet. Gen. Gage, in 1775, ran a breastwork across Rox- bury neck, uhich is very narrow, in order t(» com- mand the only land communication with the neigh- * At Charlestown is tlio Stale Pr'sov, whirh ?ins lately been grentl- unproved, on th^ best p!?in«. H Lake US liiLL. ..i2.t bouiing' couniry, and then continued those acts of op- pression upon the people, which exasperated the colonies so nnuch a^^ainst him. Contributions were sent in for their relief from all parts of the colonies. On the 17th of June, 1775, while the forces which had repaired to this threatened scene had their head- quarters at Cambridge, a body of men, principally formed of detachments trom Massachusetts and New- Hampshire regiments, having fortified themselves on Breed's Hill, (an eminence of about 70 feet, behind Charlestown,) manfully disputed the ground with the British troops sent over from Boston to occupy it. The loss was great on both sides, particularly on that of the assailants, who were driven back in three at- tacks. The boldness of these raw troops, and the success with which they so long withstood the charges of the regulars, were of the utmost use, by encourag- ing the country, and by convincing the English that they were fighting a powerful foe. The !»atde usually goes by the name of Bunker's Hill ; but should, in strict propriety, be called after Breed's Hill, as the latter is a distinct eminence, although, perhaps, a spur from the tormer. The British landed near a point, just beyond where the navy yard is now seen ; and the American defences consisted of a small earth redoubt on the top of Breed's Hill, and a double rail fence, stutfed with new hay. extending from it to the water. Some remains of these works are still to be traced. A British sloop of war lay, during the action, in Mystic River, beyond ihe navy yard, and kept up a cross fire upon the low- neck, which connects the peninsula of Charlestown with the mainland. The 17th of June, 1825, the fiftieth anniversary of ihis battle, was commemorated with very appropriate i ceremonies ; and the corner stone of a monument was laid in an angle of the old redoubt, on Breed's Hill, with Masonic ceremonies. A large number of Revo^ jlutionaiy oflicers and soldiers assembled: and ihr .3^2 CITY OF B©STON. monument is to be erected at the expense of pnvaie contributions. Bunker Hill Monument. The base (a mass of 14,000 tons weight,) is laid 13 feet deep, and has six courses of stone to the surface — the first of which is 50 feet on each side. Above this a pyramidal obe- lisk, 30 feet square, is to rise tapering-, 213 feet 4 inches on the ground, and to be 15 at the top. It will be composed of 80 courses of stone, each 2 feet 8 inches thick. A winding stone staircase in the inside will lead to the summit, whence the view will be fine and highly interesting. The whole is to be built of granite from Quincy. The largest block in it is said to be of the following dimensions: 11 feet long, 5 broad, 2 feet 8 inches high, with a weight of ten tons. After the battle of Bunker's Hill, the Continental troops were drawn in a more complete line around the town of Boston ; and numerous intrenchments may still be traced out on most of the hills in the vicinity ; but it was not till Gen. Washington succeeded in oc- cupying Dorchester Heights, which command the harbour and town from the south-east, that the Bri- tish embarked in their ships, and evacuated the place. Dorchester Heights were occupied on the night of March 4, 1776. iiight hundred men formed the van ; then followed carriages, and 1200 pioneers under Gen. Thomas, 300 casts of fascines and gabions, and guns in the rear. Two forts were formed by 10 at night, one towards the city, and the other towards Castle Island. Preparations were made for an attack by the British, and for defence by the Americans; but the weather prevented the design of the former, who con- sisted of 10,000, and they embarked for New-York. The town was pillaged, and 1500 loyalists removed. It was evacuated and possessed, March 17 : ammuni- tion, &c. being left by the British. The Massachusetts General Hospital is near tlif Charlestown Bridge. MANUFACTURING. 323 Bridges. Some of the most striking- objects in the neighbourhood of Boston, are the bridges which lead from it to various points. There are no less than five principal ones, besides several branches. The ex- pense at which they have been constructed and are kept in repair is very great, and they furnish great fa- cilities for strangers desirous of making excursions to the surrounding country. Education. The Lyceum, a literary institution, with branches in many of the to^vris in this and other states, is calculated to diffuse useful learning among all classes. This state took the lead in establishing a system of general education, and enjoys its benefits. There were, in 1827, 7500 children instructed in the public schools in Boston, as follows — There are seven grammar schools, in which were about 500 pupils. There were 200 boys in the Latin school, and 140 in the High school. The 57 primary schools contained, in 1828, 3436 children between 4 and 7 years of age, taught by females, &c. &c. In some of these the monitorial system has been introduced . The public ex- pense incurred in instructing nearly 7500 children is ^54,500 annually. There have since been established several Infant schools, under the direction of a so- ciety of ladies. A monument has been laid or commenc<-d over the graves of Dr. Franklin's parents, in the Granary bury- ing ground. The model is for an obelisk, 25 feet high, formed of seven blocks of Quincy granite, each weighing about 6 tons. An Asylum for the Blind is to be established in Boston. Villages. The vicinity of Boston presents a suc- cession of villages, probably not to be paralleled for beauty in the United States. They are generally the t residence of a number of the most opulent citizens during the pleasant seasons, and many of the buildings are fine and expensive. The grounds are also fre- j Quently laid out \vit.h great ta«te, and highly cult! ■ 3H4 cixr OF ivisTo]:^;. vated ; so that no stranger, who has leisure, should faii| to take a circuit through them, at least for a few miles.* The puhlic coaches may be found convenient. There are several manufacturing establishments in this vicinity, among which Waltham is conspicuous. [In some places on the coast salt is made from sea- water. f] Cambridge, 3 miles from Boston, is the seat of the oldest, and one of the principal colleges in the United States. The village is very pleasant, and contains the residences of the numerous professors. The college buildings are numerous, and the older ones venerable in their appearance. 52 degrees of A.M. were con ferred in 1828. This institution is the most richly en- dowed in New-England, and has educated many of her most distinguished men. Hon. Josiah Quincy is the President. NAHANT, 14 miles. This is a very pleasant and fashionable re- sort, during the warm months : being a fine situation, open to the sea, of easy access by land or water, andi furnished with several houses for the accommodation of visiters, particularly the large hotel. A steamboat * The V. S. Mirine Hospital at Cljelsea, opposite Boston, is a fine building, erected out of ihe Hospita' collected from seamen in the mer- 1 chant service. It is 105 feet long, 50 wide, three stories high, and cost $30,000. Here tenijiorary relief is alToided to American seamen who! had paid Hospital mmicy, (unless affected by contagious diseases,) and. foreinn seamen are admitted at the orice of 75 cents a day. . t The Salt Manufactories of Massachusetts are worth about two mil- 1 lions of dollars, and make about 600,000 bushe's a year, by solar eva- i poration. Each bushel weighs 75 potmds. The duly in tlie United ' States on imported salt is 20 cents a bushel ; and yields a revenuf; of $600,000, Manufactories, by natural and artificial heat, are established in the following states:— New- York, Ehode-[sland, North Carolina and , Alabama. In Barnstable county there are estimated to|be fifteen millions square feet of land devoted to the making of salt by solar evaporation. In New-England there are supposed to be 1^ JPi"'""- wlii'-h in 1P'>7. nm- ili'-csd 384,954 bushels ofsnir. runs thither in the summer, and there is a fine road which passes round the bay through the shoemtiking town of Lynn, along Lynn beach, and then turns off to the promontory of Nahant, which is a point of rough rocks of considerable elevation. You may crosS Charlestown bridge, and visit Bunker's Hill at set- ling out. The passage in the steamboat affords a fine view of Boston bay, with the city ; Dorchester heights on the south, Bunker and Breed's Hill on the north-west, and many other interesting objects.* Among the islands which form the defence of the harbour, is that which contains Castle Williams, and one or two other fortified ones ; Rainsford Island with the Marine Hos- ?)ftal, part of it quite elevated, but containing only a ew acres. Salt is made at Deer Island, where you pass through a narrow and crooked channel, and wind- mills are sometimes used to pump the water. The ground near the hotel at Nahant, has been laid out and ornamented with as much taste as the expo- sure of the situation will permit. The cupola on the top commands a fine water scene ; and during a strong wind from the sea, the waves are high and magnifi- cent, breaking wildly against the rocks. Pea Island, south-westerly, and Egg Island, east, are prominent and rocky. There is a very ornamental little build- ing, in the Doric style, which contains billiard rooms. The Baths are at a little distance from the hotel, and quite commodious, furnishing one of the chief attrac- tions of the place. The Spouting^ Horn is a hollow in the rocks, on the shore, east of the village, where,- at half-tide, the waves throw the spray ten or fifteen feet into the air. The Swallow^s Cave is a remarkable aperture in the rocks, not far from the landing place. It is 60 or 70 feet long, and in one place about 20 feet high. The tide rises in it, and it is visited by swallows : and , * At Dorchester is a House of Musfr-'f. E e 2 326 CITY OF liOSTOK. there are several other caverns of a similar ciiaracterj produced in the course of ages, by the constant attri« tion of the water. Seats are conveniently disposed at different places, in the most commanding points, from tvhich the truly striking oijects around are seen to great advantage. The rude shores and the smooth beach can be best examined at low tide ; but those who are fond of sublime scenes, should omit no op- portunity to visit them when the wind is high, parti- cularly in a mo -nlight night. Proposed Improvements for Internal Commumca* tion. — Plans have been on foot for several years, for constructing canals and railways from Boston to the Hudson River near Albany. Proposed Railroad from Boston to Albany. — This project was rejected, in 1830, by a large vote in the Massachusetts Legislature. The following- results are given by the surveyors of the southern route, which they considered the most eliicible. It passes through Worcester, Leicester, Spencer, Springfield, western part of Westfield, thence along the southern branches of Westfield river to Washington, thence through Pitts- field and Richmond to tl»e bounaary of the state, near th«- north line of VVest Stockbridge. The distance by the line here described, is 94 miles and 64 chains from Boston to Connecticut river, 160 miles 44 chains to rbe border of the state, and by the shortest lines surveyed, 193 miles and 6 chains to Albany. Of this distance " 13 miles are level ; and in travel- ling towards Albany 94^ miles are descending, 41^ miles have an ascent not exceeding 20 feet per mile, 25 miles have an ascent of different rates from 26 to 52 feet per mile, and the remaining 24 miles an ascent of 52 to SO feet per mile. In travelling from Albany to Boston, 901, miles are descending, 45^ ascending not more than 26 feet per mile, 21i ascending from 26 to 52 feet per mile, and 27| miles from 52 to 80 feet. Eight tons net weight are considered an average load for a single horse on the level parts, and parts ascend- PEOJEC'TED KAILUAi^. 327 mg not over 26 feet per mile, travelling 19 or 20 miles Eer day ; 6 tons for the parts ascending from 26 to 52 ?et, travelling 10 miles per day ascending, and return- ing the same distance ; and 4 tons for the parts as- cending 52 to 80 feet, travelling at the rate last men- tioned." The cost of the road, 22 feet in width, is estimated at ;^ 14,940 70 per mile, on an average. Adding ten per cent, for unforeseen expenses, the whole cost of the road from Boston to the border of the state, will be $2,638,628 64 ; to Albany, <^3,254,876 46. It is cal- culated that the cost of transportation, for heavy goods, paying the lowest rates of freight, would be about one cent per mile on an average, exclusive of tolls, which will add perhaps half a cent more per ton. [A company was organized, in 1827, to open a Waie^' Communication between the Piscataqua and the Con- lecticut Rivers, through the waters of Lake Winni- oiseogee, and the upper branch of Merrimack River.] Boston and Whitehall Railroad. — A railroad has ilso been projected to the head of Lake Champlain. it VYjiitehail, over a route, and in connexion with chan- iels of commuoicalion which promise great advan- ages. The' route which is proposed, is from Boston through jowell, Nashua, Amherst, Weare, Henniker, Brad- brd, south end of Sunapee Lake, down Sugar River, hrough Nevv^port, Claremont, and Cornish, to Wind- er, Vt. — thence through Reading, Plymouth, Shrews- bury, to Rutland ; thence through Castleton, to lake 'hamplain, at or near Whitehall. Or, if upon a sur- ey it should be thought expedient, to pass from iowell up the Merrimack to Concord, and thence to iverge upon the same route. A glance at the map of New-England will be suffi- ient to understand the importance of this project, and » discover that various branches might be run in con- exion with it, along the most productive portions of le neighbouring districts. o2^ CITY OF BOSTON. There are numerous manufacturing as well as agri- cultural villages along the route, and granite, soap- stone, lime, marble, copperas, &c. are found in quan- tities in different places, besides a great amount of water-power hitherto unemployed. The present roads from Boston to Whitehall are about 160 miles in length; and the rail route would not be much greater. For travellers, therefore, as well as for merchandise, it might be an advantageous work, if once well constructed and in operation. . A route has also been proposed for a Railway com- munication between Boston and Lake Ontario, from Concord to Lebanon on Connecticut River ; thence through the valley of the White River to Monlpelier; by Onion River to Lake Champlain ; and thence to Ogdensburg. The last section, which has been sur- veyed for a state road, is peculiarly favourable. After a survey made for a railroad to Providence,! by the authority of the Legislature, a report was made,, stating that there are two practicable routes, neither of which would offer an elevation above thirty feet in a mile, except one short section. Estimated expense, ^350,000. {See page on.) Plymouth, 36 miles S, S. E. from Boston. This place is highly interesting from its history, be- ing the site of the first settlement made by the New- England Pilgrims in 1620, on the 22d of December. A mass of granite rock is still shown on which those stepped who first landed. It has been divided, and a part of it remains buried near the shore in its natural location, while the upper part is removed into the centre of the village. , A handsome building was erected here in 1820, ir which the New-England Society hold their •innual celebrations of that interesting era in the history of the country. Burying Hill, which rises near at hand, iit the spot where a small fort was erected by the settlersj JU>UTJ;> FiiOJI liOSTOIV. SzT^ aiid where the graves of several of them arc siiH to br. ibund. Tlic banks of tlie brook soulli of the hill were the scene of the first conference with Massasoit, a friendly and faithful Indian chief, from whonrithe name of the Bay, and subsequently that of the state was derived. Manumet point is a promontoiy on the south side of the harbour ; and a small island on the opposite of it was the spot where the pilo-rims first placed their feet on shore in this vicinity, afier having previously landed on Cape Cod. The young and feeble colony suffered extreme dis- tresses here, from the severity of the climate, (against which they were unprepared, as they had sailed lor a more southern region,) and the want of provisions. Nothing but the assistance of Massasoit preserved them from extinction. 5a?ic^ciy?c/?, a favourite resort for fishing* and sea'air, is a few miles below Plymouth. There is a good inn kept by ViY. Swift. ROTJTES FEOAI BOSTOZS. Coaches go in so man}'' directions, that a choice may be made between a great many, all of them pleasant; !n setting out for a tour to the westward, or towards khe city of New-York : j In the first place, the noble scenery of the White ]HiUs rnay be taken in the way to Lake Champlain, iC!anada, the Springs, or Niagaia; or in making the nore circumscribed route of Connecticut itiver. js^ext, those who choose a more direct way, may avail {heuiselves of the road through Concord, Keene, and iiVindsor; or its branches to Charlestovvn or VValpole. J The last is now much travelled, as it is one of the jihortest routes between Boston and the Springs, and I eads through a number of interesting places. Besides hese, are the roads to Albany or the Springs, through he following different places : Brattleborough, Bloody ^rook. GfPf'nfirlrl, Novth'^.rnpton. (and New-Lebanon f*^ 33TA1>S. tiamen assembled on the parade. The British brigade halted about 120 yards from the church to load, and then passing: the east end of the buildings, discovered the Americans, who were ordered at the moment, by their commander, Capt. Parker, to "disperse, and take care of themselves," but " not to fire." As some of them loitered, the British troops rushed towards them, huzzaing. Major Pitcairn fired a pistol at them, when about 30 yards distant, after they had been called "rebels," and ordered them to lay down their arms and disperse. Another officer, who was within a few yards of them, then brandished his sword, and ordered the troops to " fire," which was obeyed at the second order ; and the fire being returned, it was kept up on the dispersing men until they had all disappeared. Eight were killed, and ten wounded. (Gen. Gage falsely stated that the British were first fired upon.) After the regulars had fired a volley, from the green behind the church, and given three cheers, they pro- ceeded to Concord. On their return, being hard pressed by sharp shooters, they burned three houses, a shop, and a barn, killed three more men, and wounded one. AXDOVER is a small village, situated on high ground, 20 miii - from Boston, remarkable for the Fhilips Academy and Theological Seminary ^ which are three-fourths ot a mile east from it, on the summit of the ascent. There are three large brick buildings, belonging to the Serai- nary, which "make a conspicuous figure from different parts of the surrounding country, and command a view of great extent, bounded on the west by the Temple Hills in New-Hampshire, backed by the Monadnoc, about 60 miles off; and on the south by the Blue Hills. A little elevation near by affords a view of the Atlantic Ocean, from about Newburyport tc- Cape Ann, with part of Salem; and north-west is a LOWELIu 335 distant peak, which is supposed to be Ascutne}^, in Vermont. The academical buildings are distinguished by the names of Philips Hall, Bartlett Hall, and the Chapel. In the upper part of the latter is a library of 5 or 6000 volumes. The Professors' houses are opposite, with a spacious green intervening between the Seminary and the street ; and there is also a large inn. The Academy and Seminary are not connected, although they are under the superintendence of the same board. The term of instruction in the latter embraces three years. The number of students in the former, in 1828, was 108. Haverhill is a small town, but pleasantly situated, on the north ' bank of the Merrim.ack, the shores of which, for some distance below, present a beautiful and fertile slope to the water. A draw-bridge crosses the river, with a roof to protect it from the weather. Lowell, 12 miles from Boston. This has been one of the greatest manufacturing places in the United States, and one of the most astonishing rapidity of growth. No longer ago than 1813 the first cotton factory was erected here, which cost only about ^3,000. Larger ones were founded in 1818 ; and two years after, the "Merrimack i>Ianufacturing Company" made a pur- chase of buildings and ground, with the determination to take advantage of the extensive water power which nature has granted to the place. The falls are 30 feet high, and a little below the spot where the Middlesex canal commences, leading to Charlestown, near Boston ; and round them the Company improved an old canal, (at the expense of <^120,000,) for the supply of their water wheel^:. There i44 BOSTON TO THE WHITE MOUi^TAlK^. South-by-west rises a high hill resembling the Ossipee in the richness of its slopes. The South-West and West is agreeably varied with wood-lols and cleared fields, scattered over an undu- lated surface, which extends for many miles, in some places quite to the horizon, and in others to the broken boundary of tall but distant mountains. In the south- west appear two or three peaks, so far removed that they are almost lost in the blue of the sky. Nearly west are seen several ridges of inferior magnitude, which, approaching as the eye slowly moves towards the left, at length come near the lake, and disappear behind the neighbouring mountains. Long Pond may be distinguished by its shining sur- i face between the west and south, with several other little sheets of water, which lie in tranquillity under the shelter of the hills. Winnipiseogee Lake is 19 miles in length, from Cen- tre Harbour to Alton, at the south-eastern extremity. Merry-meeting Bay lies beyond. Several of the islands are large, and contain good farms and wealthy inhabitants, although only two or three of them belong to any town, or pay any taxes. Some of their names are Rattlesnake, Cow, Bear, and Moon Island ; also. Half Mile, One Mile, Two Mile Island, &c. &c. None of them contain churches ; and although they have no school-houses, yet sufficient attention is paid to the rudiments of education to render the children intelligent.* * Win lipiseogee Lake, according to surveys made by 3Ir. Baldwin in 1825, is 501 feet above the ocean. It has been proposed to begin a canal from Meiry-mecting River, at the ?outh end, to Dover, a distance of 28 miles, and to continue the navigation through this lake, and Long, Square, and Little tiquaw Lakes, to Merrimack River, making in ail a distance of 65 miles. It will bn necessary to raise the lake two feet by a dam at the outlet, and to cut to the depth of about 17 feel for 7 Tiiles. The estimates have been made for a canal of (he; j dimensions: tiS feet wide at the bottom, 4 feet of water, witli stone locks 12 feet in the clear, and 82 feet long. It will require 60 locks, which will cost $5,500 each, and the cost from tlie lake to Dover is computed at ^590,982. If con tinued thrpugli tlie lakes to Merrimack River, to meet a canal from Baker's River, the expense -"'ould be increase;! to iibont ,«731 47S. At SUUAM LAKE. o-io bquam Lake lies west from Red Mountain, and like Winnipiseogee Lake, abounds not only in islands, but in fish of the finest descriptions. Fine trout are caught here in great abundance, and of a size superior to those of the other lake. The trout of Winnipiseogee Lake vary from 1 to 4 pounds in weight, while those of Squam Lake are between 4 and 10. They are some- times caught of nearly double this size ; but that is very uncommon. The trout fishery is chiefly carried on during the winter, when great quantities are salted for the Boston market. Perch also abound very much in these waters, and are remarkably fine. Geology. The sides of Ked Mountain are covered with half decomposed granite. (On the south-eastern side of the lake a bed of porcelain clay has been dis- covered, which is probably derived from a similar source.) The granite is speckled with hornblende and black mica. No rocks are seen in situ, except near the summit, where they bear a gentle dip towards the north, and are slightly tinged with reddish quartz and felspar. The hue of the shrubbery in autumn has given the mountain its name. The sunjmit is strewed with loose fragments ; and musquetoes and black fiies often abound there. A few days may be spent at Centre Harbour very agreeably, in making shooting and fishing excursions in the neighbourhood, or in sailing upon the lake, which abounds in the most interesting variety of scenes. On leaving this place by water, at the distance of five miles, the White Mountains rise into view above the interme- diate peaks, and continue in sight quite across the lake. A few deer are still found in some places in the neighbourhood, but being protected by law, and still more by their scarcity, are very rarely taken. that point, tlie distance from the Connecticut, by Baker's River, is 3-1 miles. Tlie facilities these works would afford tor manufacturing wonlri ^e verv valuable, bin the number of locks will be a great objection. o4b BUaTON TO THK WHITE .^lOUNTAliNt Froj^i Centre Harbour to Conway. Proceeding north-east from Centre Harbour, you enter the valley between the two chains of mountains seen from the top of Red Mountain, and pass through Mouitonboro' and Tamworth. The surface is irregu- lar, and much of the land uncleared ; but settlements have extended far up the sides of some of the moun- tains, and farms are occasionally discovered quite at the top. The features of the scenery are bold and striking. Eaton Meeting House. Two miles northwardly irom this, Ossipee Lake may be seen by leaving the road ; but it has nothing very interesting in its ap- pearance. Near Atkinson's inn is the Lead Mine, discovered three or four years since. A shaft has been sunk about 50 feet, with a horizontal drift, and the ore is ffood. Conway, 6 miles. At Conway there is a house kept by Mr. Abbett, rit the dividing of the roads, which is comfortable, although heretofore without a tavern sign. The view of the White Mountains is very tine from this place, presenting a succession of lofty ridges, the most dis- tant of which are the peaks of Mounts Washington, Adams, Jefferson, Madison, Monroe, and Quincy. The most prominent elevation on the right, with two sum- mits, is Kearsearge, or Pickwaket : a level meadow lies in the foreground, with an isolated, woody hill in the middle, and the Saco River, which rises on Mount Washington, and flows down a narrow valley, with many meanderings. The shortest road from Conway to the mountains leads directly to Bartlett : but the most travelled as well as the most agreeable route is by the way of CHALYBEATE SPRI:NG. 347 Fiyeburgh, where will be seen the beautiful tract of level country thrc^u^h which meanders the Saco River, and the great Pickwaket Mountain, which rises from its border. That was the beautiful and favourite resi- dence of the nation of Pickwaket Indians, and on the bank of Lovel's Pond was fought a bloody battle be- tween them and a company of troops from Massachu- setts, in the year 1725. [It is probable that a road will soon be made round the north end of the White Mountains, through the town of Adams, to avoid the Notch. The land is level in that direction, along the course of the Andros- coggin, and the distance to Lancaster nearly the same. Whenever it shall be completed, it will offer a very agreeable route to the traveller, with fine views, but not so wild as those on the present route. The White Mountains are interesting, and worthy of attention from every side in which they are brought under the traveller's view ; and if any one should wish to visit them from the town of Adams, he may be gratified by pursuing a path not unfrequently trodden before. Mr. Stephen Meserve, of that place, has often obligingly favoured strangers with much useful local in- formation concerning the best routes and the principal objects of curiosity. The mountains present a steep acclivity in the direction channelled b}^ numerous avalanches which have rushed down at different pe- riods. The Pinkham road runs at their base ; and the New River may be seen, which has undergone transmutations which the Greeks might have recorded in their mythology. It was thrown out of its natural channel in 1776, by an immense slide, or avalanche ; and has been restored to it by that of 1826, whose ra- vages are so wide-spread and tremendous.] The Chalybeate Si'Ring. Turn off from the road to the west about 2 miles north of Abbett's. cross the Saco. and enter a field. 348 BOSTON TO THE WHITE MOUNTAIJNS. where it is found. A house is kept in the neighbour- hood by Mrs. McMillan, which has been lately over- flowing with visiters during the warm season. The country abounds in scenes attractive to persons of taste. A little church is situated in a secluded and ■romantic valley ; and the place is destined for a fashionable resort. The place is off the road, and may be missed. It is in a valley^ with mountains on every side except the south-east. From near the church, the White Mountains are in sight. Two or three miles a})ove, the Saco valley bends to the left, and Ellis's River comes down a narrower vale in front. Up the course of this stream was formerly a route by which the highest peaks were ascended. A footpath leaves it in Adams, and goes on to Shelburne, he. It is 7. miles. to Hall's, in Bartlett. Fryeburgh. The township of Fryeburgh, in its extent of six square miles, embraces a rich and beautiful valley, secluded on every side by a wild and mountainous range of country. The Saco River, taking its rise on Mount Washir)gton, and flowing through the Notch in the White Hills, passes down the valley to Conway, where it finds the termination of the southern range ; and then turning abruptly to the east, soon enters ihe charming meadows of Fryeburgh, and performs a ser- pentine course of no less than 36 miles within the limits of the township. The Indian Fort was on a gentle hill at the western side of the village, ahich commands a view of the Saco valley six miles up its course, and six miles down. Lovel's Pond is on an isthmus, about one mile south-east from the ■s'illage. and is memorable as the scene of one of the lovel's expedition- 34y most severe and disastrous battles in the old partisan warfare against the Indians. The Portland Road passes along the western side of the pond, and at present affords a view of it only from that part of the high ground which is near its north end. This, however, was the place of the action. Another road runs very near the north shore ; and it is a pleasant ride to the place. Lovel's Expedition. In 1725, Captain Lovel was induced to undertake a secret expedition through the wilderness against the Pickwaket tribe of Indians, who, instigated by the French, had committed many depredations on the frontier, so that the general court of Massachusetts had offered 100 pounds each for their scalps. His com- pany consisted of 30 or 40 men, many of them accus- tomed to the life of hardy hunters and settlers, with young Mr. Frye for their chaplain, whose history was somewhat romantic, and from whom this town received its name. They passed up Winnipiseogee Lake, then to Ossipee Pond, where they built a blockhouse, and placed their stores ; then following up the course of the Saco, encamped at the mouth of Mill Brook at the north-west corner of Lovel's Pond, on the night pre- ceding the battle, intending to cross the isthmus, (which is reduced by the pond to the breadth of Is miles,) and fall upon the Indian Fort. The next morning they deviated from their route, and the great body of Indians having discovered the encampment, and the way they had gone, formed an ambush, fired upon them on their return, and killed eight men. The white men retreated to the north-east corner of the pond, where is a narrow strip of land, and defended themselves till night ; and the remains of the unfortunate expedition returned through the Ur:oBt. suffering from hunger and fatigue, and some c; 360 BOSTON TO THE WHITE MOIIjN TAINS. them from wounds. One of the first wounded escaped by getting into a canoe, which was driven across the pond by a north wind ; but a fugitive, who reached the blockhouse at Ossipee Lake, reported that the ex- pedition had been entirely cut off, so that the garrison hastily removed the provisions, and thus increased the sufferings of the survivors. The Stage Coach from Conway to Portland passes through Fryeburgn early in the morning, one or per- haps more days in the week, and arrives nt Portland the same evening, by Hiram, Baldwin, Standish, and Gorham. The coach to Concord goes through Conway. [Pa7'is is a pleasant and tiourishing town, about 35 miles east from Fiyeburgh ; but the roads and the inns in that part of the country are generally poor.] A tremendous catastrophe occurred among the White Mountains on the night of Aug. 28th, 1826. A storm of rain, unprecedented within the memory of the oldest inhabitants, deluged the principal peaks of the mountains, and poured such an inundation upon the valleys and plains below, that it is commonly at- tributed to the " bursting of a cloud ;" although that expression is a very ill-defined one. The effects pro- duced by the flood will remain for centuries ; and as many of these lie exposed to the eye, the route will offer many new objects interesting to an intelligent traveller. It will afford him a very desirable oppor- tunity to observe, in some places, the structure of the mountains, where Jieir interior has been laid bare by the falling of vast quantities of earth and rocks ; and in others, exemplifications to confirm the modern geog- nosticaf theories, to explain the phenomena observable in valleys, plains, and the courses of rivers. Geolo- gists and mineralogists, too, may expect to meet with curious and valuable specimens, among the enormous wrecks they will observe on either hand. The inundation was so great and so sudden, that the channels! of the streams were totally insufficient to THE OL-.NDATIO?^ OF l}j2b\ o5J admit oi the passage of the water, which conse- quently overflowed the little level valleys at the feet of the mountains. Innumerable torrents immediately formed on all sides ; and such deep trenches were cut. by the rushing water, that vast bodies of earth and stones fell from the mountains, bearing with them the forests that had covered them for ages. Some of these "slides," as they are here popularly denomii.aied, (known among the Alps as " avalanches de terre^'''') are supposed to have been half a mile in breadth, and from one to five miles in length. Scarcely any natural occurrence can be imagined more sublime ; and among the devastation which it has left to testify the power of the elements, the traveller will be filled with awe at the thought of that Being by whom they are controlled and directed. The streams brought away with them immense quantities of earth and sand, which the turbid water deposited, when any obstacle threw it back, in tem- porary ponds and lakes. The forest trees were also noated down, and may now be observed in great num- bers, frequently several miles from the places where they were rooted up. The timber was often marked with deep grooves and trenches, made by the rocks which passed over them during their descent from the mountains ; and great heaps of trees are deposited in some places, while in others, the soil of the little meadows is buried with earth, sand, or rocks, to the depth of several feet. The turnpike road leading through this romantic country, was twenty miles in length, but was almost entirely destroyed. Twenty-one of the twenty-three bridges upon it were demolished ; one of them, built with stone, cost $1000. In some places, the Saco river ran along the road, and cut down deep channels. The Willey House was the scene of a most melan- choly tragedy on the night above mentioned, when this inundation occurred. Several days previously, a brge " slide" came down from the mountains behind 352 THE WHITE MOITNTAIISS. it, and passed so near as to cause great alarm, without any injury to the inmates. The house was occupied by Mr. Calvin Willey, whose wife was a young wo- man of a very interesting character, and of an educa- tion not to be looked for in so wild a region. They had a number of young children, and their family at the time included several other persons, amounting in all to eleven. They were waked in the night by the noise of the storm, or more probably, by the second descent of avalanches from the neighbouring moun- tains ; and fled in their night clothes from the house to seek their safety, but thus threw themselves in the way of destruction. One of the slides, 100 feet high, stopped within 3 feet of the house. Another took away the barn, and overwhelmed the family. Nothing was found of them for son.e time : their clothes were lying at their bedsides, the house not having been started on its foundation : an immense heap of earth and timber, which had slid down,havingstopped before it touched it ; and they had a 1 been crushed on leaving the door, or borne away with the water that overflowed the meadow. The bodies of several of them were never found. A catastrophe so melancholy, and at the same time so singular in its circumstances, has hardly ever occurred. It will always furnish the traveller with a melancholy subject of reflection. Bartleti is a comfortable village, situated in a rich valley, or interval, of about 300 acres, where the view is bounded on every side by near and lofty mountains. The inn of the place is kept by ' Judge Hall.' There is another interval among the mountains westward, which, although it contains much good cleared land, has been converted into a common, in consequence of the difficulty of making a good road to it. Pursuing still the course of the narrow valley, against the cur- rent of the Saco, the country is found uncleared, except two or three pretty little meadows ; and destitute ot inhabitants, excepting only three or four poor families, vmiil rirrlvins: at nancy's hill Crawford's Farm, seven and a half miles south of the Notch. Here the traveller will be cheerfully and comfortably enter- tained, although the house does not wear the sign of an inn. The water rose in this house t'Ao feet in the flood of 1826. This is the place from which visiters formerly began their excursions to the summit of the mountains : but the best place is at the new house at the Notch. Prospect Mountain, one of the principal peaks, pre- sents itself to view a little before arriving at the first Crawford's, with its smooth rounded summit of brown moss, rising several hundred feet above the region of vegetation, and offering an aspect which distinguishes these from the other elevations. The climate in this narrow valley is still so warm as to favour the growth of various trees which are scarcely to be found a few miles further north. The forests are here formed of spruce, ash, beech, maple, sugar maple, &c. Mr. Crawford has about 100 acres cleared, and raises Indian corn very well, which will not come to maturity beyond. His orchard contains 700 apple trees. This is one of the principal stopping places for the sleighs, which pass the mountains in great numbers during the winter, for Portland, Boston, &c. There are sometimes 80 horses in the stables. Nancy^s Hill is a small elevation a few miles north of this place. In 1773, a young woman of respectable connexions, who accompanied a family of settlers to Dartmouth (now Jefferson,) set out in the winter to return to Portsmouth, alone and on toot, her lover ha- ving promised to meet her there and marry her. There was then no house nearer than Bartlett, 30 njiiles. Nancy was found by some travellers in this sfpot. frozen and covered with ire, under a hut 354 THE WHITE 3iOtJWTAI^!5. formed of branches of trees, which was the only shelter to be found on the way. The Willey House is situated in a secluded little valley about 5 miles north of Crawford's, and was long; the only building in a distance of 12 miles. It has sometimes been unin- habited during the summer season, though open, with its cheerless shelter, to all comers : in the winter a family occupied it to keep a fire, lodgings, and a little food, provided for the travellers and wagoners, who might otherwise perish for want of the necessaries of life. For an account of the melancholy catastrophe which has marked this place with an affecting and lasting association, see the previous remarks on the inundation of 1826. {See page 351.) The climate is so cold, that the land is not worth cultivating ; and although the place has been occupied by several tenants, no one would keep the house in re- pair, even rent free. There are no good uplands, the soil there being all gravel ; and the climate is sensibly colder than at the last stopping place. There is a place near the Jsotch, where the road suffered severe injury. It had been built up against the side of a mountain, on a wall 40 or 50 feet high, and about 30 yards in extent, at the expense of $500. This whole fabric was swept away by a mass of earth, rocks, and trees, which came from hah a mile up the side of the mountain, and rushing down at an angle of about 45'>, precipitated itself into the bed of the Saco, which is nearly 300 feet below. In repairing this road in the winter, the workmen had great difficulty in getting over the obstructions. They expected to find but little daylight at that 'ate season of the year ; but they found that the summits of the mountains received very earl}^ intelligence of morning, and the snows reflected it into the valleys and ravines. w I'HE xNOTCli. OOJ The road rises with a steep ascent for a considerable distance before it reaches the Notch, and the traveller observes two cataracts, one pouring down a precipi- tous mountain at a distance on the west side of the valley, and the other, which is called The Fluine, rushing down on the right-hand, and crossing the road under a bridge. The scenery is sublime and impressive beyond description. Just beyond is another Flume. About 150 yards beyond is the first great slide seen in coming from the Notch. The Notch s so narrow as to allow only room enough for the path ind the Saco, which is here a mere brook only four eet in breadth. It is remarkable that the Saco and he Ammonoosuc spring from fountains on Mount ■Vashington, within, perhaps, 60 yards of each other, hough the former empties into the Atlantic, and the atter joins Connecticut River. Another branch of the \mmonoosuc approaches the Saco in one place, within ■bout 600 yards. They are both crossed beyond the scotch. The head waters of the Merrimack rise within '.bout a mile and a half of this place ; and run down a ong ravine, little less remarkable than that of the Saco. The Notch Meadow. Here a house has been re- ently erected, at which the traveller will find accom- nodation, and where it is recommended to him to take p his quarters during his stay. It is situated on a j nail meadow, probably formed at an early period, ! /hen the water of the Saco was set back and over- I owed the neighbouring surface, before the convulsion ccurred by which the Notch was formed, and a pass- ge was opened to it. The spot is probably the most dvantageous that could have been chosen on the road, DF a public house. It is sheltered by the neighbouring lountains, presents a level surface, and is within the I istance of a few yards of the remarkable pass which ,')bi) THE WHITE MOliiSTAirsS. opens the way through the towering ridge soutiiward, iilong the avenue to the still distant regions of civili- zation. The change presented to one coming down is so sudden, that the mind is greatly affected. From the level surface over which he has proceeded by a smooth road, that bends along one margin of the meadow, while the Saco brook has been leisurely making the circuit of the other side, at a sudden turn round a rude projecting rock, he finds the meadow suddenly terminated, a dark and narrow defile opening beside, and the stream appearing and disappearing almost at the same instant, as it begins to dart down the steep descent which is opened at once to the cur- rent and the road. A traveller arriving at this spot from the westward, can hardly paint in his own ima- gination an o. • quate picture of the wild and magnifi- cent objects which await him along the route ; and he who has already passed among them will never be able to erase the impression from his memory. From a distance the striped and channelled ap- pearance of the mountains prepares the mind in some measure for the effects of the gieat inundation ; but, however great the effort the imagination may have made, the "fancy will here find itself greatly surpassed. A road was first made through the Notch in 1785. It was 50 or 60 feet higher than the present turnpike, and so steep that it was necessary to draw horses and wagons up with ropes. The assessment for the turn- pike was made in 1806. Two rocks stand at the sides of this remarkable passage, one 20, and the other about 30 feet, in per- pendicular height. They are about 20 feet asunder, at 6 or 7 yards from the north end ; then they open to 30 feet. The part which appears to have been cut through is about 120 iieet 'ong. The Notch meadow opens beyond ; and after a ride of 41 miles, the tra- veller reaches another comfortable house, kept by Mr. E. A. Crawford, where also he will be received and entertained. -MOUxNT WASIIlNGTOiV. tiot Ethan A. Craziford^s House. The master of the iiouse also will act as a guide, and is qualified for the office, both by his intimate acquaintance with the way, and the various kind attentions and amusing anecdotes with which he knows how to relieve the tediousness of the ascent. The best arrangement is to set out in the afternoon, spend the night at the wigwam or * Camp,''^ ascend the mountain early in the morning, to 'lave the benefit of the view by sunrise, and return to he inn before the ensuing evening. It is 6 or 7 miles i the " Camp," 3 of which are passable in a carriage md the rest on horseback, though much impeded by he devastations of the great storm. MOUNT WASHINGTON. 3 The ascent of the mountain was formerly a most i.rduous undertaking, and was very rarely performed, put several ladies have lately been enumerated among ihose who have gained the summit. The whole way ;es through a perfect forest. The first 6 or 7 miles are ver a surface comparatively level ; but the last two liles and a quarter are up an ascent not diflfering much 'om an angle of forty-five degrees. The time to perform the different parts of this ex- ursion may be estimated as follows : hours. From the inn to the camp, 2 Thence to the summit, 2 miles and 93 rods, 2 or 2i Returning from summit to camp, . . . Ih Thence to the inn, 2" The streams of the Ammonoosuc River, which are ' be crossed seven times, show the ravages of the in- idation of 1826, but a comfortable bed, and a fire, f the weather be chill,) will be found very welcome at II h 558 THE WHITE MOUJVTAliNS. The Cami', 62 miles from Crawford's. Here provisions of differ- ent kinds will be produced, and even cooked by a cheerful fire ; and if the travellers are sportsmen, and the season is favourable, a dish of fine trout may soon be obtained trom the romantic little stream which dashes by within a short distance. The ascent of Mount Washington begins just at hand, and the most arduous exertion will be necessary to attain the summit, which seems to fly before the stranger when he deems it just attained, and to look down in derision from a new and more hopeless height. The first part of the way is through a thick forest ol heavy timber, which is suddenly succeeded by a girdle of dwarf and knarled fir-trees, 10 or 15 (eet high, and 80 rods, or about 450 yards, broad ; which, ending as suddenly as they began, give place to a kind of short bushes, and finally a thin bed of moss, not half sufficient to conceal the immense granite rocks which deform the surface. For more than a mile, the surface is entirely destitute of trees. A few strag- gling spiders, and several species of little flowering plants, are the only objects that attract the attention, under the feet. The following heights are stated to be those of the different peaks, above the level of Connecticut Kiver at Lancaster : Washington, 5,350 ; Jefferson, 5,261 ; Adams, 5,183 : Madison, 5,039 ; Monroe, 4,932 ; Quincy, 4,470. Mount Washington is believed to be more than 6,400 ' feet above the ocean. '] In a clear atmosphere the view is sublime, and al- , most boundless. The finest part of it is towards the | south-east and south. Looking down the valley.' through which the road has conducted us, a fine sue- ' cession of mountainou"? summits appear for mar ' THE LAKE OF THE CLOUDS. 359 iniles, extending beyond the bright surface of Winnipi- s-eogee Lake. I Towards the south-east also, the eye ranges over an extent of surface, which quite bewilders the mind. Mountains, hills, and valleys, farm houses, villages, ;and towns, add their variety to the natural features of the countiy ; and the ocean may be discovered at the horizon with the help of a telescope, although the [Sharpest sight has never been able to distinguish it I without such assistance. In that direction lies Port- land, the capital of Maine; and nearer, Love I 's Pond. < On the north-east is seen the valley of the Andros- rcoggin River, which abounds in wild and romantic ;;5cenery, and was the usual passage by which the In- idians, in their hostile incursions from Canada, used to , approach the eastern frontier settlements of Massachu- setts and New-Hampshire. Beyond, are the Ktardin Hills, near the extremity of Maine. i JVorth, the country is more wild and uncultivated ; and the Umbagog Lake is seen, from which flows the Androscoggin. West, the nearer view is over a mountainous region, [covered with a thick forest, through which only an oc- jcasional opening is perceived, formed by the farms I (or clearings) of the hardy inhabitants. Beyond, the I hills are seen to rise from the opposite shore of Con- necticut River, the surface of which is every where bidden from view, and the summits, rising higher and I higher, terminate in the ridges of the Green Mountains in Vermont. South-westerly is seen the Grand Monadnock. The Indians knew the White Mountains by the name of Agiocochook, and regarded them as inac- cessible, or at least represented them so to white men. The Lake of the Clouds is a little pond, near the summit of Mount Monroe, of beautiful clear water: and supplies the head stream of 360 THE WHITE M0IJNTAI:N&, the Aranionoosuc River. This little current imme- diately ijbegins its descent, and dashes in a headlong course of several tliousand feet, into the valley near the encampment. Geology. Loose fragments of granite are every where scattered over the mountain, with some speci- mens of gneiss. The granite is generally gray, and at first fine-grained, but grows coarser as we ascend, and is occasionally sprinkled with small garnets. At the summit it frequently contains a little black tour- maline, sometimes in crossing crystals. On the sum- mit, also, some of the granite is tinged with red, al- though much of it is coloured bright green by lichens, dampened by the humidity of the clouds, and inter- spersed with thick and soft gray moss. The grain of the coarse granite is elongated ; and what strikes the visiter as very singular is, that not a single rock is to be found in its original place — every thing bears the mark of removal ; and this, taken into view with the precipice on the northern side, seems to indicate that the summit of the mountain has fallen down and disap- peared. The general belief now seems to be, that the lofty peak above us is the highest elevation in North Ame- rica, except Mexico and some of the Rocky Moun- tains. The inhospitable nature of the climate is such as to forbid all hopes of future improvement ; so that the feeling of sublimity, produced by the lonely and desolate character of this desert region, is increased by the reflection, that it is destined to be a wilderness for ever. The only places susceptible of cultivation in the heart of the mountains, are the little meadows inha- bited by the Cravvfords, the Notch, and Willey Mea- dows ; and there the interval of warm weather is so short in the year, that few vegetables can arrive at maturity, with all the rapidity of growth which distin- guishes such cold regions. To those who are fond of field sports, the forest*^ iiOAi»s. 36 i and rivers afford every advantage, during the brief summer which visits the valleys. Various kinds of wild birds and game are to be found in the woods, besides bears, wild cats, and deer. The moose and buffalo were formerly abundant among the mountains ; and it is scarcely thirty years since they were killed in great numbers, merely for their hides and tallow ; as the latter still are in the deserts beyond the Missis- sippi. Deer are common in the woods, and frequently are killed by the hunters. Sometimes they come boldly down into the little meadow before Crawford's house, and quietly graze with the cattle. The black bear are occasionally seen in the more unfrequented places ; but they will always endeavour to avoid a man. A large species of elk, here known by the name of the Cariboo, has nvade its appearance in the White Mountains within a few years ; but they are still very scarce in this part of the country. The weather is liable to frequent changes in the mountainous region, which is partly owing to the vi- cinity of the JVotch^ through which the wind blows, almost without ceasing, even when the air is perfectly still at only a short distance from it. From the situa- tion of the mountains, it is impossible that the direc- tion of the v/ind should vary materially in the valley ; and it is therefore, of course, always north or south. During the winter it is often very violent, so that not only the snow is prevented from lying on the path at the Notch, but the surface is swept of every thing that a strong wind can remove. The summits of the mountains are frequently in- vested with mist, when the sky is clear ; and those only who inhabit the vicinity are able to tell whether the day is to be favourable for the ascent. The mists sometimes collect in the valleys, and then present some of the most singular and beautiful appearances. Roads. There are two roads hence to Connecticut River; one over Cherry Mountain (very laborious) ^.o Lancaster ; the other, shorter, through Breton 362 EOUTli FROM BOSTO?< TO MAINE. Woods, Bethlehem, and Littleton, (rough and stony) to Bath, 34 miles. [See Index.] ROUTE FROM BOSTON TO MAINE. A line of Steam Navigation was commenced in 1823, between Boston and Portland and Bath ; and ex- tended in 1821, about 250 miles from Bath to Eastport in one direction, and about 40 miles to Augusta in an- other ; and in 1825, agriin about 70 miles from Eastport to St. John's, in New-Brunswick, by proprietors resid- ing at Eastport ; and from St. John's up the River St. John's about 80 miles to Fredericktown, by proprietors residing at St. John's ; and in another direction by the Eastport proprietors, from Eastport about 30 miles on the Schoodic to St. Andrew's and Calais. Two boats were afterward put upon a line from Eastport to An- napolis and Windsor, in Nova Scotia. Another boat is run from Eastport to Dennisville, a distance of 20 or 30 miles. The line before occupied, including all its collateral branches and ramifications, exceeds 500 miles, and is now about 700 miles. It is proposed in Boston, to enlarge the canal across Cape Ann, to admit the steamboats, which will save 15 miles, and give an opportunity to communicate, di- rectly or by smaller boats, with Gloucester, Newbu- ryport, Portsmouth, Dover, and Kennebunk. The boats go about 100 miles a day, and pass so near the shore as to afford many interesting views of the numerous islands, points, and bays, which abound along the coast. In 1826, the steamboat was burned on this line. The price was, from Boston to Portland, $5 ; thence to Eastport, $6,with a deduction for forward passengers. (The arrangements for 1830 not known.) There are coaches going to Salem every hour in the morning and forenoon ; and it may, perhaps, be conve- nient to take a seat in one of them, as Salem is well worthy of at least a day's delay. Indeed, if con- venient, the stranger will be gratified with several KEVERL\ , .563 . I'ides m the vicinity of that place, particularly to M^r- I blehead. I Lynn, 9 miles from Boston. I This town is devoted to making shoes; great num- I bers of which are annually exported. Each house, al~ imost without exception, has a little shop connected i with it, in which the nnen and boys employ themselves I in this manufacture. There are in Lj'nn from 70 to 80 ■' manufacturers of shoes, and probably not far from 1500 operatives. Some of the manufacturers employ 50 ; bands each, and one is said to manufacture 1200 pair ^per week. This, if we allow 12 working hours a jdays, gives one pair of shoes about every 3 minutes. i There is a mineral spring in this town, which was celebrated many years ago. The Lynn Beach, of which mention has before been made, is in this town, and lies on the way to the fash- ionable retreat at Nahant. It is of hard sand, offer- ing an excellent natural road, but is impassable at high water. The bay on which it looks is one of the places where the famous sea serpent was seen several years 3g0. There is a good inn in the town where the stage coaches stop. The country beyond is rather hilly and uninterest- ing ; but the road is good. Beverly is a town which joins Salem so closely, as apparently to form a part of it. It has a long street through which we pass, nearly at the foot of a high, barren hill. This eminence is remarkable in the history of witchcraft ; as it is the spot where numerous persons, condemned for that crime, in Salem, were executed. 364 KOIITE FKOM BfcfSTOK TO MAINE, SALEM. The Lalayetle Hotel. This is one of the most populous, wealthy, and beau- tiful towns in New-England. It was one of the ear- liest settlements made in Massachusetts Bay ; and the planting of the colony is annually celebrated. Go- vernor Endicott, one of the most distinguished indi- viduals in the early history of this part of the country, resided here. The place was first settled in 1626. Salem was for many years engaged in an extensive and lucrative commerce, particularly with China ; and the appearance of the town is sufficient to show that it still contains a great deal of wealth. The harbour is fine, and the wharves still well supplied with stores ; but the trade of the place has materially diminished. The streets are generally too narrow ; but the banks, insurance offices, and churches are many of them handsome buildings. The Square is a lar^e and beau- tiful tract of ground, near the centre of the town. About it are seen many of the finest private buildings in the place, which, indeed, may be compared for size and elegance with those in any part of the United States. There is a High School in Salem, besides 18 public and 58 private schools. In 1828, the public schools contained about 500 boys and 300 girls. The Marine Museum is an institution highly cre- ditable to the town, being an association of respect- able nautical and commercial individuals, formed for the purpose of making useful observations, and col- lecting curiosities from all quarters of the world. No one can become a member who has not doubled Cape Horn, or the Cape of Good Hope, either as master or supercargo of a vessel ; and each of them is supplied with a journal, in which he is to note down such re- marks as he thinks important, dnrinc his voyages. MAllBLEIIEAD . i3 6 5 These are submitted to the inspection of a committee ; jand the curiosities brought home are deposited in a 'handsome building belonging to the society, which is well worthy the particular attention of strangers. Access is readily gained by application to any of the members: this extensive and highly interesting cabi- net being closed only for the purpose of security, and no fee being required for admission. The room is jlarge, well lighted, and filled with curiosities from |all quarters of the world, and many specimens belong- Jng to all the branches of natural history. The ar- rangement is made with great taste, and several hours, or indeed days, will hardly be sufficient for an exa- Imination of all it contains. J The following lines were written after a visit to this interesting institution, by Beltrami, a distinguished j scientific traveller, in the year 1827 : "Siste Viator! Siste, mirari ! est Orbis in urbe, "Et prsebet pulchrum cuncta miranda Salem. — "Obstupui, hie Superum, bine hominum prodigia vidi, " Pontus, Magna Parens, Ignis et Ipse favent. — " Oh, America : Oh, felix tellus, populusque beatus 1 " Quam nobis tollunt dant tibi fata vicem. — The top of the hotel commands a fine and exten- sive view over the town and its environs, with the harbour, and the fine coves which set up on both sides. A Mill Dam Company has been incorporated, to en- close a tract of water near this town, to obtain power for mills, on the plan of the Boston and Roxbury mill dam. The receiving basin is to be about 70 acres, and ^the power equal to 40 mills, Marblehead. ♦ There is a good road to this town, which stands at ^ ihe end of a rocky promontory, 4 miles south-east from I Salem. It contains a handsome square, and some ven^ /i6ii J?()ITE FKOM BOSTON TO MAINE. ^ood houses ; but it is principally inhabited by fisht i- incn, Avhose manner of life precludes, in a great de- t::ree, the intellectual improvement generally so cha- racteristic of New-England. The harbour is a small bay, protected by barren rocks, and afifords shelter to the numerous tishing schooners employed in the cod fishery. The men and boys are absent from home a great part of the year ; as each vessel usually makes three fishing voyages, or ^^Jares,^'' as they are here called, every season. They lie on the banks until they have caught a load of fish, which are opened and salted as soon as taken. The vessels then return, and the fish are spread to dr^^ on wooden frames, called flakes ; great numbers of which will be seen on the shore. A few vessels still go to the Labrador coast for fish. There is a fort at the extremity of the town, which commands the entrance to the harbour, and af- fords a view of many miles over the neighbouring sheets of water. The islands at the entrance of Sa- lem are wild and rocky ; and the sea breaks over them with violence in an easterly storm. Towards tile south are seen several headlands of this iron-bound coast ; which, for a great extent, even down to the extremity of Massachusetts, must have appeared one of the most inhospitable to the pilgrims who began their settlements on this part of New-England. Newbtjryport. Stage House, or Merrimack Hotel, on the hill. This is a large, and, to a considerable extent, a regularly built town, 38 miles from Boston. The greater part of it lies in squares, and the best streets are built en- tirely of brick. What is commonly called Newbury- port, however, is composed of two distinct towns. The original township of Newbury includes that part %vhich reaches to within about a quarter of a mile of the shore ; and the rest, a mile along the water, where the wharves, the market building, most of the stores. Aiops, &c. are found, is all which is, properly speak- ing, called Newburyport, although there is no division but an imaginaiy line. The Court House makes a handsome appearance, at the head of a street running to the river. The monument of the celebrated Whitefield is to be seen in the First Presbyterian Church in this town, where his remains lie interred. The harbour is fine, and the place once enjoyed a brisk and lucrative commerce ; but it has suffered se- verely from two great fires, within a few years, and 'still more t"rom circumstances which cut oft' the trade. A plan has been proposed for the improvement of the navigation of the Merrimack, which, if carried into effect, can hardly fail to produce results of great im- portance to the place. The falls at Haverhill cut off* the boat navigation, at the distance of about 12 miles ; but if these were avoided by a canal, the water com- jmunication would be opened to Concord, and a great I part of the products now sent to Boston, by the Mid- I dlesex Canal, would come to Newburyport. It is es- timated, that the work would cost about two hundred j thousand dollars. I Stage Coaches. The mail coach from Boston for I Portland arrives at 7 A. M. and returns about 2 P. M. [ There is also an Accommodation Line, which travels only by daylight. The Concord coach leaves here about noon. The late Timothy Dexter's house is now a tavern, about half a mile from the stage house on the road to Portsmouth. The garden was form.erly curiously or- namented with wooden statues of distinguished indi i viduals. ■j Mackerel Fishery. It was estimated, in 1829, that j 92 vessels were employed in the mackerel fishery, ' with a tonnage of 4,432 tons, and about 740 men, seven months and a half each year. The bridge over the Merrimack is a most beautiful structure, I^s length is 1000 feet : and it has four 3(38 KOUTE IKOM UOSTOA TO MAliSL. arches and a draw-bridge, on the side towards the town. The arches are supported by twelve chains, carried over four towers in the form of pyramids, 31 feet above high water mark. The bases of these towers are of hewn stone, 40 by 30 feet, built on tim- ber, each with a breakwater up the stream. The chains, separately, are strong enough to bear 22 tons. The bridge, with the road to Newburyport, cost .$66,000, Hampton, 10 miles. At Hampton Beach is a good hotel, which commands an agreeable view upon the ocean, and the shore about the Boar's Head, Portsmouth, 62 miles frbtn Boston, 58 from Portland, Brown's Stage House. The environs of the town show many neat and pleasant houses of wood ; and the middle part of it is principally of brick, with some handsome public buildings, although the streets are generally too nar- row. It has been a place of much commerce. The old church is a specimen of old times. The Navy Yard, on an island opposite the town, contains two large ship buildings, one for frigates and the other for ]ine-of-battle ships. The bridge across the Piscataqua, leads into the state of Maine, which was, until within a few years, a district of Massachusetts. The current is very strong. The navy yard is seen on the east, with the ship houses, &c. 13 ships of war have been built in this port since 1690. The Santee, 74, and Ala- bama, 74, are on the stocks. [Amcsbury is a manufacturing place on the Powow River, 3 miles from Newburyport. The river is made to drain se^^eral ponds by an arched tunnel du^ 'brouffh a hill about a century ago- Thevf is a Nar, THE jNLBiiLi:. o6'd Factory here, oriojinally built by the famous me= chanist Jacob Perkins. A Rolling and Slitting Mill is ladjoining. Extensive Anchor Works, now standing 3till, are on the same dam. The Broadcloth Factory, supplied with water by a dam below, is also not in operation. The Salisbury fYannel Factory has 2500 spindles, employs 80 hands, and makes 100 pieces of flannel weekly. They have built a much larger one at the upper falls. The {dmeshury Flannel Factory have a building 40 feet by 130, 4 stories high, with 5000 spindles, 180 workmen, md makes 200 pieces a week. Houses for dying, bleaching, and fulling are on the wharf. There is also 1 machine shop. Men receive ^1, and women 50 cts. 1 day. , The building is 200 feet long, 50 wide, 5 stories iiigh, and will contain 10,000 spindles, and make 400 Dieces in a week. All the Flannel Works in full ope- ration will make 35,000 pieces of flannel in a year, and employ about 1000 hands. There are several other mills and factories ; though he whole ground occupied is only 40 rods.] The country on this road is of a gently rolling form, generally very poor, without trees, and changing only rom sand to rocks ; and affords very few objects of nterest, except an occasional view of the seashore, ind several spots remarkable for their connexion with he history of the country. York. There are so:ne pleasant fields about this ittle place, but its size is insigniticant, particularly vhen contrasted with the anticipations formed of its lestiny at the time of its first settlement ; for the ground was laid out for a city, and the divisions of the I and still retain much of the regular form given it by :he first surveyors. The Nuhhle is a rocky point, 4\ miles from York, ,vith a cluster of miserable huts in the rear, called, in ierision, the city, or metropolis of Cape Neddock. Tom a point of that name still further on. J70 UOUiK XN MAliM,. While travelling along this dreary country, near the place where a round hill of a peculiar appearance first presents itself in front, and then ^he ocean, the road passes the site of an old fort or blockhouse, built be- fore Philip's war. Nothing is now to be seen of it from the road, excepting a part of the old wall, which is built of large stones, laid with greater regularity than is practised now. A hovel stands near the wall, shaded l)y a few trees, about 100 yards west of the road. The Agattienticus Hills forn) a range some distance west. Lower Welles. There is a little harbour here, de- fended by a sand bar, with a narrow entrance under a rock ; but it is almost dry at low water. Welles. The sea ottcn breaks beautifully on the beach, in front of it.e tavern. Porpoise point is just distinguished in the north-east ; and the view of the sea is tine and refreshing. Three miles beyond is Breakneck Hill, over which falls a small stream, from the- height of 30 leet, about 40 yards from the path. Here, says a blind tradition, a small tribe of Indians met an indiscriminate destruc- tion, in the following manner. Being on their return from their annual fishing excursion on the upper part of the stream, they despatched some of tl»eir number to make a fire on the rock which divides the falls, as they tbund they should not reach this place betbre night. The white men in the neighbourhood, by some means learning their design, shot the messengers, and then collecting the limbs of trees, made a great fire on the high bank below on V\e. opposite side of the road. The Indians, says the story, being deceived, did not attempt to stop their canoes in season, and were all carried over the falls and killed. A similar tale i? re- lated, with more appearance of credibility, of the falls on the Androscoggin River. The Fort was half a mile beyond, or a quarter of a mile north from the church. The site is distinguished PORTLAND. 371 "by the angle of an old wall, built of large, regular, but unhewn stones, on the east side of the road. The marks of the foundation appear to be yet visible a little back, and the situation is very pleasant, with a smooth plain around it, and a gentle slope in the rear to a little meadow, where the settlers used to obtain their hay. The ocean is in full view below. This little fortress was once attacked by 500 Indians, who at first sup- posed, as was the fact, that the men were absent from home. The place was, however, very bravely and successfully defended by five women, who put on their husbands' clothes, and fired so warmly upon their in- vaders, as to force them to retreat. Kennebunk, 25 miles from Portland. Here the mail coach from Portland stops for breakfast. It is a small place, but once carried on a considerable lumber trade with the West Indies. Saco, fifteen miles from Portland. Just south of this village is the mouth of the Saco, which rises on Mount Washington. Cutt's Isl md of 75 acres divides the stream, just at the falls, and has been converted to raa- , nufactiiring purposes. The first manufactory erected by the company was intended for 1,200 spindles and 360 looms. It was destroyed by fire in 1830 : loss estimated at ^300,000. The soil here is very rock , easily furnishing mate- I rials for building:, which has lately commenced on a ' large scale. The fail is about thirty feet, the water i^ abundant at all seasons, and there is a landing place for vesselsonlya few yards distant, which might greatly fa- vour the transportation of raw and manufactured articles. I The land bought in 1825 on the island with a portion of the water power, cost about ^100,000. Great quan- I lities of timber have long been sawn at these falls, ^ PORTLAND, 15 miles. Mitchell's Hotel. The Stage House. The situation of this place is remarkably fine, occu- o72 EOrXE IN MAIXE. pying the ridge and side of a high point of land with a handsome, though shallow hsij, on one side, and the harbour on the other. The anchorage is protected on every side by land, the water is deep, and the com- munication with the sea direct and convenient. Con- gress-street runs along the ridge of the hill, and con- tains a number of very elegant private houses. There is also the Town Hall, with the Market below, the Custom-House, and a beautiful new church, with gra- nite columns. The steps are fine blocks of granite, 6 feet by 9, brought from the quarry at Brunswick, 22 miles distant, and cost about $40 each. This street rises, as it approaches the end of the neck, or promon- tory, to the Observatory, a tower 82 t'eet high, and, with its base, 142 feet above the water, commanding an ex- tensive and very fine view on every side. From the Observatory, south and south-west are several distant eminences : among others, the Agamen- ticus Hills ; north-west are seen, in clear weather, the lofty ridges and peaks of the White Hills in New- Hampshire, which are discovered at sea, often before the nearer land appears in sight. The country on the north presents little that is interesting, and the water nearer at hand is only an inlet of the sea. Cape Elizabeth is the highland on the south side of the harbour ; and the islands, which nearly close its entrance, are called Bang's and House Islands. Fort Preble stands on the former, and Fort Scammel, only a blockhouse, on the latter. It is proposed by the United States to expend ^165,000 in enlarging these defences. Due east is Seguin Lighthouse, which is visible in clear weather, 32 miles distant, at the mouth of the Kennebec. Nearer, and in the same quarter, lie numerous islands of various forms, and divided by little channels and bays, some of which are deep. They are generally covered with trees and rocks, but present a beautiful variety to the view in that direc- tion. Their number is not known, but is usually esti- mated at 365, to correspond with that of the days in } the year. .. ' POKTLAJSU. olo ■ rhe intrenchments on the hill, west of the Observa- lory, belong to Fort Sumner, and part of them were made in the Revolutionary war. Und« r the bluff, on the water's edge, is Fort Burroughs. Falmouth (the former name of Portland) was burnt in the Revolutionary war by Capt. Mowatt, in the British sloop of war Canceau, on the I8th of October, 1775, on the refusal of the inhabitants to deliver up their arms. About 130 houses, three-quart«:;rs of all (he place contained, were consumed, some being set on fire with brands, after a cannonade and bombard- ment of 9 hours. The old church is among the build- ings saved, and has the mark of a cannon shot in it. A small part of Mitchell's hotel belonged to one of the hou. es not destroyed. There are some fine stores and dwelling-houses in the middle of the town, and the shore is lined with wharves and shipping : for the place is beginning to prosper again, althout^h it has lost an extensive trade which it cannot recover. There is a small Museum n the place. At the Athensum will be found news- Dapers from different parts of the country, a library, ^c. In 1827 there were 10 primary schools here, con- aining 1095 pupils. Four of the schools were on the nonitorial plan. There is a Female Orphan Asylum ecenlly established here. • Remarks to the Traveller at Portland. The Boston W[ail Coach leaves here every morning at 4, and caches Boston at 9 P. M.; the Accommodation at 8, ind arrives next day, stopping for the night at Ports- nouth.* '* The following prices were charged in the steamboats, between ifferent places, in 1828. From Boston to Augusta, forward cabin $4, after do. ^5 From Boston to' Ratli, do. 3, do. 5 From Boston to Portland, do. 2,50 do. 4 From Portland to Hallowell and Augusta, 2 2.'5 From Portland to Bath, I 00 From Bath to Richmond, 50 ■ From Bath to Gardiner, 100 i:^ From Bath to Hallov/ell and Augusta, •.•i".i«v. 1 2.5 I i 5 S74 KOTJTE IN iVIAl.NS. The communication with Dover, Concord, kc. i= easy, and the traveller going in that direction is re- ferred to the Index for those and other places in his way. He may take the route to the White Hills by Fryeburgh ; the road leads through a wild and thinly populated country, but is not devoid of interest. The stage coach reaches Conway in a dty by this route, passing through Gorham, Standish, Baldwin, Hiram, and Fryeburgh. The eastern and north-eastern routes only, remain to be spoken of The road along the seacoast is more uninteresting, passing over a rocky soil, and is recom- mended in going from Portland. The upper road leads through a considerable extent of fertile country, indeed the garden of Maine, and shows several plea- sant and flourishing villages, by which it may be more agreeable to return. The settlement of a great part of that region, still, is so recent, that the traveller will not find so good accommodations, nor so many objects of interest, as in many other parts of the U. States. The inhabitants, however, are increasing very rapidly, and great improvements of every kind are annually introduced, which produce a scene of great activity and prosperity, particularly between the Kennebec and Penobscot Rivers. Remarks on the Country North-East from Portland. In consequence of the position, the climate, and soil of Maine, the improvement of the country has been much retarded. Settlements were made on the coast as early as 1607, and several others not long afterward ; but they suffered severely in the Indian wars, and their vicinity to the French missions, which embraced all the eastern part of the present state, exposed them to imminent danger. In later times the population was principally confined to the seacoast, for the conve- nience of fishing and commerce, and thus the good REMAKKS ON TRAVELLl^NG IN MAINE. 37i) land, which lies some distance back in the country, was almost entirely neglected. After the revolu- tionary war, this extensive region remained in the con- dition of a district belonging to Massachusetts. Within a few years it h;is been received into the Union as a separate state ; and agriculture having been intro- duced, the emigration from the neighbouring states has rapidly swelled its population. In 1828 there were 33 newspapers in the state of Maine. In travelling in Maine, the stranger observes the same order of things as in the interior of New-York, Ohio, and other parts of the country which are fast improving. It is but a few years since agriculture was almost unknown here, and now the interior region between the Kennebec and Penobscot Rivers is well peopled, and presents a scene of rural cultivation and prosperity rarely equalled. That is of course the most attractive route for the traveller ; and the road from Portland lies through Augusta and Hallowell. Those who are going to New-Brnnswick, &c. are advised to take this route, unless they prefer the less fatiguing mode of travelling in the steamboat. Most persons going eastward from Portland, will wish to return ; and the brief tour which we shall give will be planned for their convenience and plea- sure, by proceeding first along the seacoast, and then returning through the fine tract of country in the in- terior. It may be proper here to mention, that two roads have been projected to Quebec ; one by the River Kennebec, and the other by the Penobscot. At pre- sent there are no roads through the northern wilder- ness, though a communication has been kept up that way for several years, and herds of cattle are occa- sionally driven into Canada. The hardy and enter- prising traveller may, perhaps, be willing to encoun- ter the inconvenience of lodging in the open air, and such fare as the wilderness aflfords : but few will 37t) IIOUTE IN MAIM;, attempt the route for pleasure, until the intended im- provements shall have been made. For the distances of the principal places on the route from Portland to Quebec, see page 235, 236. Canals phojected im Maine. From Sebago Pond to Portland. This would re- quire an excavation of only 6 miles to effect a commu- nication between a chain of ponds or lakes, capable of furnishing larg-o supplies of timber, and many products of ag:riculture, if settlements were once encouraged. From the Androscoggin at Wayne's Mills, to the Kennebec at Gardner. There is a dead water naviga- tion to within five miles of the former, but then there i^ an ascent of 260 feet to the level of its current. 3louTE FROM Portland to Belfast, Castine, Bangor, &c. Travelling round to the head of Casco Bay, you pass through North Yarmouth and Freeport, and arrive at Brunswick, 26 miles. This is the site of Bowdoin College, the principal institution of the state. It was burnt a few years ago ; but has been rebuilt, and con- tains a good number of students. It is pleasantly situated on an elevated level. There is a fall on the Androscoggin river at this place ; below which booms are extended across to keep toge4her the lumber which is brought down €very season in great quantities. The whole road trom Portland to Bath, 34 miles, lie? along the coast, where the soil is rocky and poor. Bath is a town of considerable trade, situated on the Ken- nebec, at the distance of 16 miles from the sea. Here EOOTH BAY. 377 ■ue several public buildings, and among^ the rest, two banks. If the arrangements be now as heretofore, the steamboat will leave Bath every day, except Sunday, at noon, and arrives at Augusta the same evening, touching at Richmond, Gardiner, and Hallowell. Woolwich is opposite Bath. WiSCASSET, 14 miles from Bath. This is one of the principal ports of the state, and has an excellent harbour, at the mouth of the Sheepscot River. Stage Coaches run north to Bangor, on the Penob- scot. They pass through Newcastle, Nobleborough, Waldoborough, Union, Appleton, Searsmont, and Bel- mont. There are two branch lines : one to Thomas- town through Warren ; and another to Hamden, through Camden, Lincolnshire, Northport, Belfast, Swanville, and Frankfort. From Wiscasset to Damascotta is rough and rocky ; but the ride presents many interesting views, as the landscape is continually changing, and is often varied by the sight of Damascotta River, and several beauti- ful little lakes or ponds. Damascotta Bridge. Here is a considerable village, at the distance of 16 miles from the seacoast. Booth Bay lies off the road from Wiscasset to Damascotta. It has a commodious harbour, with a number of islands in the vicinity ; and the neighbouiing high ground affords a very fine and extensive view. The hill, on the eastern side of the bay, was surveyed for a city jn the early part of the last century, which was to have borne the name of Townsend, but the building of it was never begun. The harbour has been con- sidered a ^ood site for a naval depot. AntiqMities. Two or three miles off the road, be> o78 ROUTE IN MAINE. tvveen Linniken's Bay and Damascotta River, where was formerly an Indian carrying-place, the remains of cellar walls and chimneys are found, as also broken kettles, wedges, &c. At the head of the bay are the hulks of two or three large vesseN sunk in the water ; and on the shore, the ruins of an old grist-mill, where the present one stands. On the islands opposite the town, are other ruins, the history of which is unknown, as well as that of those already mentioned. The only fact which seems to afford any clew to their origin, is, that Sir John Popham made an attempt to build a fown at the mouth of the Kennebec, in the year 1607. Waldoborough, 10 miles. Warren, 7 miles. Thomastown, Central Village, 6 miles. Here are quarries of mar- ble and limestone, from the latter of which about 100,000 barrels of lime are made every year for ex- portation. The marble is also wrought in consider- able quantities. A visit to the workshops may be interesting, as the operation of polishing is performed by machinery movd by water. There is a cotton manufactory on Mill River. The village is 15 miles from the sea. Thp State Prison stands in a commanding and plea- sant situation. It has 50 solitary cells, built of granite, in blocks from 4 to 6 feet in length, and 2 in thick- ness. Each cell has an opening at the top, \yith small holes in the walls for the admission of fresh air, which, during the winter season, is warmed before it is ad- mitted. The Warden's house is also built of granite, and is two stories high, placed in the middle, with a row of cells on each side. The prison yard is sur- rounded by a circular wooden paling, and encloses nearly three acres, in which is a lime nuarrv. Seve» ral workshops on the ground serve the purposes of the convicts, who are employed in burning lime and other manufactures. The Knox Estate. About half a mile from the State Prison is the ancient residence of the late General Knox. The mansion was three stories high, large, and elegant, particularly for a country so little cultivated and inhabited as this at the time of its erection. It is now in a stale of great decay ; but some of the re- maining decorations of the grounds may give an idea of its original appearance. The approach to the house is through a cypress grove ; and in tront of it extends a handsome gr^ss-plat. General Knox was one of Washington's principal officers, and acted a conspicuous part in the revolutionary war and in the government. From Thomastown to Belfast, (30 miles,) the road is hard, and commands many views of Penobscot Bay, with a few islands on the right, and a partially culti- vated country on the left, with some mountainous scenes. Belfast is a flourishing port, pleasantly situ- ated on the side of a hill. The road hence toCastine, found the bay, is 35 miles, passing through Prospect, Buckport, Orland, and Penobscot. Castine was taken during the late war by a fleet, and the Briti>h intrenchments are to be seen on the hill above. Eastport is important as the frontier post of the United States on the seacoast towards the British possessions. It is on the south-eastern part of Moose Island, in Passamaquoddy Bay, and connected with the mainland by a bridge. The spot was almost un- inhabited 30 years ago ; but now it contains three places of worship. There are fortifications and a few jiroops. A line of steamboats is established between .his place and Boston, touching at Portland, kc. 1 Lubec is situated near the entrance of the Bay, op- losite Carapobello, 380 KOUTE IN MAINE. Perry, the village of the Passamaquoddy Indians? lies northward from Eastport. On the Schoodic River the land is high, and the scenes striking. Robbinston stands at its mouth ; and Calais 12 miles above, at the head of navigation. The country north and west of this place is said to be very valuable for grazing, being undulating, with a good soil and climate, and at present well wooded, with conveniences for transportation by sea. The road from Belfast to Bangor lies along the course of the Penobscot River. Bangor is a very flourishing village, newly risen into impor- tance, in consequence of having taken a good deal of the interior trade from Belfast. It occupies a com- manding position for this object, and is undoubtedly destined to experience a great and rapid increase, proportioned to the extension of settlements in the upper country. The number of inhabitants increased between 1820 and 1825, from 1221 to 2002. The scenery here begins to assume much of that mountain- ous character, which prevails so extensively through a large part of the interior. A very conspicuous and noble eminence is observed at a distance in the north, called Ktardin Mountain, the elevation of which has never, it is believed, been accurately ascertained. It is considered the highest land in the state, and has been compared for altitude with Mount Washington in New-Hampshire : whether with justice or not, a scien- tific measurement will determine. In the year 1825 the land agents visited a tract of country inhabited by about two thousand persons, who had been before unknown as belonging to the state, having never been represented in the legislature, or included in any census. They are partly descend- ants of refugees, and partly half-pay officers, Irish and Scotch* The vast tract of wilderness intervening be- I'EUIPSCOT FAIXS. 381 tween them and the lower country had prevented in- tercourse. Their country is rich and beautiful, on the St. John's River, near the boundary of N. Brunswick ; and many of them desired to be received into the jurisdiction of the State Government. The question has already caused much excitement. The opening of a road along the course of the Pe- nobscot to Quebec, by the vay of St. John's, the sur- vey of which has been authorized, for which the state have appropriated $5000, on condition that Massa- chusetts will do as much, cannot fail to accelerate the settlement of this country, and to increase the value and the products of the soil. It will also prove here- after a very convenient route for travellers going to and from Canada, and doubtless form a part of the grand northern tour, which will then be complete. Steamboats will be placed on the route from Bos- ton to the Kennebec. From Bangor we begin our return to Portland, taking the route through the finest part of the state of Maine. The road to Augusta and Hallowell on the Kennebec, lies through a region rapidly improving under the management of an active, industrious, and increasing population. The value of the soil has greatly advanced within a short time, and it is the grand centre of emigration. There is another road to Hallowell through Bath. Coaches travel each way three times a week. Augusta is a considerable town and very flourishing. It is siluaied at the lalls of the Kennebec, where the water on the descent of the channel is sutficient to set in motion several hundred wheels, and will probably be hereafter extensively employed for manufacturing purposes. At the mouth of this river, at Georgetown, beryls have been found, in a ridge of granite country. Some are 15 inches long and 6 thick. They are associated with schorl. Pegipscot Falls, Near Lewistown, on the Andre- Kk 382 KOUTE IN MAIi\ii. scoggin River, is a remarkable cataract, where tiie cur- rent breaks through a range of mountains, and pours over a broken ledge of rocks. The scene is wild and striking, and derives an additional interest trom its connexion with the history of a tribe of Indians long since extinct. According to a tradition current in the neighbour- hood, the upper parts of this stream were formerly the residence of the Rockmego Indians, who inhabited a fine and fertile plain through which the river winds. The situation was remote, and they had never en- gaged in any hostilities with the whites, but devoted themselves to hunting and /ishing. The ground still contains many remains ot" their weapons, utensils, &c. They were, however, at length persuaded to engage in a hostile incursion against Brunswick, at that lime an exposed frontier settlement ; and the whole tribe embarked in their canoes to accomplish the enter- prise. The stream flows gently on for a great dis- tance, until it approaches very near to the Tails ; and this was the spot appointed for the night encampment. Night set in before their arrival ; and they sent two men forward to make fires upon the banks a little above the cataract. Foi some unknown reason the fires were kindled below the falls ; and the Indians, being thus deceived concerning their situation, did not bring up their canoes to the shore in season, and were carried over the rocks, and the tribe all destroyed toge- ther. Their bodies, it is said, were carried by the stream down to the village they had intended to at- tack. The hills near the falls afford many evidences of having been the residence ot Indians, who were cut off by the whites, in a sudden attack, many years ago. CITY OF WASHINGTO>-. 383 WASHINGTON. Gadshifs Hotel, Pennsylvania Avenue. — NumeTous hotels and boarding:-houses also offer handsome accom- modations, particularly during the sessions of Con- gress. The seat of Government of the United States is situated between the Potomac River and its eastern branch, about a mile and a half above their junction. It is divided into three distinct parts, which are built about the Navy Yard, the Capitol Hill, and the Penn- sylvania \venue. The Capitol is an immense build- ing-, with two win^s, surrounded by an open piece of ground, terraced in front, and occupying an eleva- tion, which renders it a conspicuous object for several miles. The original plan of the city was very extensive : the principal streets meeting from all points of the compass at the Capitol, an bearing the names of the older states of the union. Some of the minor streets are known by the names of the letters of the alpha- , bet ; and tracts of ground were reserved tor public squares. As Washington, however, is chiefly de- pendent on the government for its support, the original scheme has been but faintly realized, and many of the streets have not even been opened. Durmg the ses>ions of Congress, the place is thronged with strangers from all parts of the country ; and the sessions of the Senate and Representatives, the pro- I ceedin^rs of the Supreme Court, the levees at the President's House, the parties at the foreign ministers', j &c. afford ample oppor'unities for amusements of va- j rious kinds. At ot'p.er seasoi s, however, there is little to interest the stranger^except^the public buildings and i the Navy Yard. 384 CITY OF WASHINGTON. The Capitol presents, in the interior, specimens of various styles of architecture. Tlie whole front is 35'2 feet 4 i.iches in length ; and the wings are 121 feet 6 inches deep. The eastern projection is 65 feet ; the western 88. The huilding- covers an acre and a half and 1830 feet. The wings, to the top of the balustrade, are 70 feet high, the centre dome 95. Representatives' Room, greatest length, . 95 ft. Representatives' Room, greatest height, . 60 Senate Chamber, greatest lensrlh, .... 74 Senate Chamber, greatest height, .... 42 Great Central Rotunda, 96 feet in diameter, and 96 high. The North Wing was commenced in 1792, and finished in 1800, cost $480,262 South Wing was commenced in 1803, and finished in 1808, cost 308,808 Centre Building, commenced in 1819, and finished in 1827, cost 957,647 ^1,746,717 On the tympanum is a statue of America, 9 feet in length, attended by Justice, and visited bv Hope. On entering the south wing, several colunms are seen, where carvings of Indian-corn strdks arr substi- tuted for flutings and filletings ; while the capitals are made of the ears of corn half stripped, and -disposed so as in some degree to resemble the Corinthian or Composite order. The Representatives^ Chamber is a fine semicircular apartment, with columns of a dark bluish siliceous pudding stone, hard and highly polished. It is lighted from above. The gallery is open during the debases, as well as the Senate Chamber, which is a much smaller apartment. THE PRESIDENT S HOUSilo 585 The Library of Con2:ress is in another part of the building ; and the Great Hall contains the four na- tional f'ictures, painted for the government by Col. Trumbull : the Declaration of Independence, the Sur- renders at Saratoga and Yorklown, and Washington resigning his C mmission ; e.ncr 12 teet by 18. Here are also four relievos in marble, representing scenes connected with the history of different parts of the U. States: Pocahontas rescuing- Capt. Smith from death, in 1606, [f>y Capeilano,] the Landing of the New- England Pilgrims at Plyui. u!h, in 1620, [by Causici,] Wm. Penn's Treaty with the Indians, near Philadel- phia, in lfi82, [by f^evehtt,] and ■ battle between Boon and two Indians, in 1773, [by Causici.] There can hardly be found in the world a room better constructed for thf exhibition of pictures than this noble, grand Rotunda, the material of which is white marble, and the light admitted from the summit of the dome, which is 96 feet in height. The population of Washington City is estimated at 19,319. There were erected 148 dwellings in 1829. The total number of dwellings is 3050. A fme view is enjoyed t'rom the top of the Capitol. You look alms: the Pennsylvania Avenue westward to the President's House, with Georgetown and the Po- tomac beyond ; the General Post Office, &c. on the right ; the N fvy Yard towards the south-east ; Green leaf's Point nearly south ; and south-west the bridge Dver the Potomac, with the road to Alexandria and Mount Vernon. The canal begins south of the Presi- dent's House, and terminates at the East Branch. The Presidenfs House is a large building of white marble, with Grecian fronts, about a mile west of the Capitol, and near the public offices. It is surrounded by a wall, but w'thout any other defence. The en- trance hall leads into the drawing-room, where the company are received at the levees. Two other apartments are thrown open on those occasions ; KkS 0^6 GEOKGETOW>% all handsomely furnished, and freely accessible, even to strangers. The ratent Office is in the same building with the General Post Office, and well worthy of a visit, on ac- count of the nun)erou'=; curious mond a tract of hilly country above and below. This is the place to which Washington retired after he bad accomplished the independence of his country, and again when he had presided at the consolidation of the government ; voluntarily resigning the stations he had consented to accept, an ; the power he had exercised only for the good of his country. To an American, this place is interesting, in a degree which no language can either heighten or describe. Who- ever aupreciates the value of private and social vir- tue, wiJl rejoice to find it associated with the traits of a person ge so distinguished and influential ; the con- sistent politician will rejoice to reflect that his princi- ples of natural freedom were not restricted to any por- tion of the world, or any part of the human race ; while any one, who ran duly estimate the extent of the bless- ings he has conferred on his country, and the influence ofhis actions on the happiness of the world, will wish that his history may ever be cherished, as a model of sincere and disinterested patriotism. Washington's Tomb will be found under the shade of a little grove ofcedars a short distant e, south ward, from the house, and ne^r the brow of the precipitous shore. It is small, unadorned, and neglected. The great man, v\ ho had rendered to his country the most important military and civil services she ever received, left his mortal remains to be deposited in this humble cemetery; and that country has never yet expressed its gratitude by erecting a monument to his memory, though to her he devoted his life, and to her he has bequeathed a character, on which no attempt has ever yet been made to discover a shadow or to fix a stain. It has been recently proposed to remove these venerated re- mains to the Capitol at Washington. CITY OP BALTIMORE. o89 [The Virginia Springs. These springs are the resort of numerous travellers every year, and present the combined attractions of healthi'ulness, fine scenery, company, &c. From Lynch burgh, in Virginia, the first day's ride brings the traveller in sight of the noble Peaks of Otter; — the next day brings him to the Natural Bridge, and the canal through the Blue Ridge — in a few days he can visit the Sweet Springs, the White Sulphur, Salt Sulphur (for consumptive patients), the Hot Springs, and the Warm Springs (the latter celebrated for its bath, and the prospect which the Warm Spring Rock displays). On his way to Staunton, he passes the Blowing cave — on the first day from Staunton, he reaches Weyer's cave, one of the most astonishing works of subterranean Nature in the world — going up the Valley, he will visit at Harper's Ferry the cele- brated j unction of the Shenandoah and Potomac. The country, through which some of this road conducts him, is not only remarkable for the beauty of the pic- turesque, but the fertility of its soil. The grass lands are uncommonly beautiful.] BALTIMORE. Barnum's City Hotel, an elegant building near the Washington Monument, was completed in 1827. It ss one of the largest and most commodious public houses in the country. It extends about 100 feet on Market-street, and 223 feet on Hanover-street. On the former opens the entrance to the private apartments, for families, &c. The Indian Queen Hotel — and others. Baltimore is the third city, for size, in the United States, and carries on an extensive commerce. Various projects have been made for improving the communi" 0)90 ClTk OF BALTIMORE. cation with the interior, which is now limited. The course of the Susquehannah has been surveyed, with the intention of making it more useful in the trans- portation of merchandise. The current is now so swift and broken in many places, as to render the pas- sage often difficult and hazardous ; and it is hoped that great improvements may hereafter be effected by locks and canals, (f this were once performed, and a rail- road made f'om the river to Baltimore, the city would doubtless derive great advantage from the internal trade. The harbour of Baltimore, in the Patapsco River, has a narrow entrance, and is well protected by high ground. On the side opposite the city is an abrupt elevation of considerable size, where is a fort, and whence a coninjanding^ view is enjoyed. Baltimore is the greatest flour-market in the U. States. Fefrs Point is a part of the city, about a mile below, Avhere most of the stores and shipping are found. Many of the streets of Baltimore are broad, cross at right angles, and are ornamented w4th fine buildings both public and private. The Exchange is a very spacious brick building, erected within a few years. The Commercial Reading Rooms are the resort of merchants. The Athenaeum is a spacious structure. The Washington ALmument. This is a large column of marble, placed in a commanding position, in Howard's Park, ^t the head oi Charhs-street, rising to the hf^ight of 163 feet. It is 14 feet in diameter at the top and 20 below, with a b ise 23 feet in height, and 50 square. It is one of the finest o»onuments in the United States, and the only one worthy the me- mory of the trreat man to whom it is erected. The statue of Washington was raised and placed upon the top in November 1829. It is 15 feet high ; so thai the iieight of the top of the statue from the ground is 176 feet ; and from the tide level 276. The situation is V'jry advantageous: being at the intersection of four BATTLE OF BALTIMORE. o91 siieets, and so elevated as to be conspicuous from every direction. The area around it, tbr a circumference oi 350 feet, is to be railed in with iron, and planted with shrubbery. The states are to be represented by de- vices around the base ; and inscriptions are to be added to record the deeds of the Fa i her of our country. The Battle Monument was recently erected in nne- mory of those who feb in the defence of the city in September, 1814. At the corner of Front and Pitt streets is a shot tower, 234 feet in height, which is a conspicuous object from a distance. The Public Fountain is a fine spring; of water in the western part of the city, surrounded by a public square, laid out in walks and shaded with trees. It is ornamented with a neat little building of hewn ?tone, and furnished with handsome st^ps. To pre- 5erve order at this place in warm weather, when it is jsually much resorted to, it is the custom to take the 'ight in descending and retiring. The environs of Baltimore afford some pleasant ,'ides ; and the communication with different places is ;asy, by various modes of conv< yance. The most igreeable way of travelling to Philadelphia is by the teamboat lines, which go and arrive daily, with but I short distance of land carriage. Steamboats also go Norfolk, in Virginia, but the passage is uninteresting ; nd those who wish to see Washington (38 miles dis- ant) will go by land. The Mount Hope Institution is a school for youth, eautifully situated in the environs. St. Mary^s Col- tge is a Catholic institution. 1 Battle of Baltimore. — This battle took place at iOng Point in September, 1814. Nearly 40 sail of I British vessels, comprising several ships of the line, rrived at the mouth of the Patapsco, and on the 12th inded between 7000 and 8000 men on Long Point, at I le distance of 14 miles from the city. Sixteen bomb 392 CITY OP BALTIMORE. vessels in the mean time went up the river, and an^ chored about 2^ miles from Fort M'Henry. Gen. Smith had sent Gen. Strieker with a part of his bri- gade, on tiie road to North Point; and Maj. Raudal, with some Baltimore and Pennsylvania volunteers, went to Bear Creek, to co-operate with him. Gen. Strieker took position at the two roads leading to North Point, his ri^ht on Bear Creek and his left on a marsh. An advanee met the enemy, and after a skir- mish returned, when they advanced and joined in a general battle. After an hour and twenty minutes, the 51st regt. gave way, and Gen. Strieker retired to his reserve, whither the enemy did not tollow, and then to the left of Gen. Smith, and took post half a mile in advanee of his intrenehments. He lost about 150 killed and wounded, in this action, in which the citi- zens of Baltimore distinguished themselves. The British loss was computed at 600 or 700 ; and among them their commander. Gen. Ross. The bomb vessels which attacked Fort M'Henry were unsuccessful, being met with a manly resistance ; and the troops re-embarked and relinquished the enter- prise. Fort Erie is dismantled and partly blown up, in the state in which it was left by our troops in 1814. The Baltimore ajvd Ohio Railroad. One of the principal objects that will attract the attention of the traveller who spends a little time in Baltimore, is the great railroad, commenced under such flattering prospects, to connect the city with the Ohio river. Cars with sails sometimes go at the rate of 25 miles an hour, and can move within tour points of the wind. About twelve miles of it were completed in 1829; and various cars are in operation upon it, some moved by steam, and some by wind. The route, from Baltimore to the Potomac, 60 miles, will have hut a single summit, requiring stationary power ; and UALTIMORE AND ©IHO RAILKOAD. 393 even the route up the Potomac valley, to the coal mines in Alleghany county, without another — in all, a distance of 180 miles— a thing unprecedented in Eu- rope. The work will be executed to Ellicott's mills early in 1830. The stranger will find a passage of a few miles very novel and interesting. The CarroUton Viaduct, which crosses Gwynn's Falls, about a mile from the city, is a fine specimen of mason work, and is said to be unequalled in the United States, for strength, size, and beauty. It is 312 feet long, 63 feet 9 inches high, and 26 feet 6 inches wide on the travelled part. The great granite arch of 80 feet span, springs trom abutments 20 feet in thickness, and 14 feet above the water. The key of the arch is 47 teet above the water. The arch stones are all of dressed granite ; the number of layers of stone is 87, many of the stones weighing two tons;^ and the parapets are coped with large slabs of granite. The Jackson Bridge is a single arch, 109 feet long, of entirely novel structure, the invention of Col. Long, of the Company's board of engineers. The Deep Cut through a high and broad ridge of lland, is about three-fourths of a mile in length, its i^reatest depth 70 feet, and its width, at the summit of I the ridge, 184 feet. Quantities of carbonized wood (Were found 60 feet beKw the natural surface, and the stump of a tree with its roots at 40 feet. The entire -^excavation is 263,848 cubic yards. < The Great Embankment at Gadshyh Run five miles jrom Baltimore, is nt^arly a mile in length, its greatest ■I elevation 56 feet, and its greatest width 191 feet. At Ihe top the usual width of 26 feet is preserved for a llouble set of rails. \ Gadshyh Run Viaduct affords a passage to the ' vaters ot the run through the embankment. The arch, composed of dressed granite blocks, is of the extra- )rdinary width of 120 feet from opening to opening. I The Patterson Viaduct is an immense structure of Li 394 €ITY OJ BALTIMulii. granite, by which the road is carried to the oppojjite bank of the Petapsco. It is built of granite blocks, from one to seven tons in weight, and its entire length is 375 feet. It has four beautiful arches, the two centre ones each a span of 55 feet, with extensive wings and water- walls, abutments, &c. The height from the water to the crown of the arches is 30 feet. The corner stone ol this structure was laid on the 6th of May last, atjd on the 4th of December it was crossed on horseback by Wm. Patterson, Esq. for whom the honour had been reserved, and whose name it bears. It embraces nearly 10,000 perches of masonry. Besides these are the embankment at Stillhouse Run, two granite viaducts, the rock side cutting at Buzzard's Rock, «fec. &c. This is truly a great work ; worthy of the age, and highly creditable to the enterprise and public sj.irit of the company ; and from which the citizens of Haiti- more may very reasonably expect extensive and du- rable advantages. In passing from the valley of Gvvynn's falls to the Fatapsco, the excavations and embankments have unavoidably been very great ; the deepest cut is 79 feet, and the highest embankment is 57 teet : the quantity of excavation between the city of Baltimore and the valley of the Patapsco, in a distance of seven miles, is 655,568 cubic yards. The embankments along the same distance are 628,629 cubic yards, making together 1,284,187 cubic yards. The masonry on the section within tl ■' city, and on the first and second divisions of the road, is upwards of 56,000 perches of stone work, and is executed in a very superior style of workmanship. Along the valley of the Patapsco it has, in many places, been found necessary to conduct the road through extensive beds of hard granite or limestone, and at the Buzzard Rock the road has been carried through a solid mass of rock rising- 58 feet above its ^•'-irface. . liALTDIORE AKD YOliK HAVEX RAILROAD. 396 There were four routes originally proposed from I Baltimore to the valley of the Potomac. The aggre- ' ^-ate height of the adopted one is only 885 feet— mudi smaller than the others. The road to the valley of the Potomac, it is expected, will be completed by the ' end of 1830. It will meet it at the Point of Rocks, A portion of 50 miles may after that {!>eriod be com- pleted every year. The increase of business in Balti- j more will therefore be rapid, and a large addition will I be made every year to the attractions of travellers in that direction. The latest improvements bive been obtained from England, in relation to the ntode, materia-s, &c., for constructing railroads, by Mr. Jonathan Knight, Civil Engineer, and Captain Wm. Gibbs M'Neili of the U. ' S. Topographical Engineers, with Lieut. George W. ! Whistler of the United States' army, who were sent thither in November, 1'288, and minutely examined every railroad of note or consequence in the United Kingdom. In the first part, the inclination of the road will be at the rate of 15,086 feet per mile, or 9.8 minutes of a degree, ascending from Baltimore towards Cumberland. i Between Cumberland and the Ohio river, the probable j transportation to that stream is estimated at one-half j that of the transportation from it eastward; and the i general inclination of the road at 8 feet and 12 hun- t dredths per mile, or 5.29 minutes of a degree^ ascend- i ing towards the Ohio. A Railroad from Baltimore to York Haven, on the Susquehannah, has been commenced by the Legislature of Maryland. The distance is 60 miles ; and the esti j mate for the railway is $7,500 per mile. The addi- I tional expenses for making the bed, the sinuosities, &c. j would be considerable : but it is believed that i ^800,000 would be sufficient for the whole work. The greatest elevation between Baltimore and ! Conewago is 35 miles from the former ; and being be- iwpen 900 and 1000 ^f^f^i above tide water, erives an •396 WILMINGTON. average rise of about 27 feet to a mile ; and tlie de= scent ihence to Conewago corresponds. It has been proposed to place 12 locomotive steam engines along this route 5 miles apart. The Susquehannah, above York Haven, has a fall of about 10 feet in a mile, and the banks are very favour- able to a railway. The Philadelphia and Susquehan- nah Railroad will soon be connected with this. A railway to the Susquehannah which could transport to Baltimore for three cents a ton per mile, it is said, would take all the business of the river. It was supposed that nearly 5i millions worth of property went down this river in 1826, in spite of the difficulties and dangers of the navigation. It is not to be wondered at that the inhabitants of Philadelphia and Baltimore should feel great solicitude to secure the trade. The sloop canal connecting this river with the Delaware is intended for rhe benefit of the former, as is the Union canal at Middletown, leading from the mouth of the Pennsylvania canal to the Schuylkill river. The Susquehannah has been greatly improved by various works in different parts of its course, (which are nearly completed,) and will permit the passage of boats of fifty or sixty tons to Columbia. The state of Delaware has rendered the navigation below Columbia comparatively convenient, so that wheat has been for six or seven years, on an average, within 12^ or 15 cents a bushel of the price in Baltimore. Foi"^ merly it was 50 cents. In 1827, ^100,000 was sup- posed sufficient to make a safe navigation from the Swatara to Port Deposit. In 1828, however, the Le- gislature of Pennsylvania forbade further improvements in that state. In 1827, 200,000 bushels of wheat went to Baltimore by this route. The bridge over the Gunpowder Creek, on the road, is remarkable as a fine structure, as the steep and elevated banks of that dark stream are for their wild and romantic appearance. The span of the arch is 125 feet. Wilmins^ton, Del. The Water Works are supplied KOUTE T<) OHIO. ci97 troiii the Brandywine, by a steam engine and double forcing pump, on the principle of that at Fairmount, Philadelphia. The water-wheel is an overshot, 14 feet 6 inches in diameter ; and the water that turns it is pumped up. The ascent from the river to the upper basin is 99 feet ; and both the basins together, hold a million of gallons. On the Brandywine river, within four miles, there are no less than 42 water-wheels employed in the manufacture of gunpowder, cotton and woollen goods, flour, paper, in saw-mills, and in the preparation of barley, and other matters, and with ample 'oom and water power, it is said, remaining, for at least fifty more. The Messrs. Duponts employ eighteen wheels, and manufacture 3000 pounds of gunpowder daily. The Brandywine Chalybeate Spring (Stanley's Hotel) is five miles west of the village, on elevated ground, and offers some attractions. The old Swedish church, built in 1698, by the early inhabitants of this place, is still to be seen, surrounded by larije sycamores. It stands near the Christiana Creek, nearly opposite the site of the fir-t place of worship erected here by the Swedes. That spot is now marked only by a few tomb-stones. This town was settled by the companions of William Useling, in 1631. OHIO. Although so far removed from the territory hereto- fore regarded as within the limits of the Northern Traveller, this new and flourishing state has recently taken so high a rank in importance, enterprise, and j numbers, that it will !»e visited by travellers of intelli- gence, disposed to witness the aspect of a country j which has been the theatre of a most rapid improve- I ment, and has already risen to the rank of the fourth state in the Union, in point of population. To such, a few brief remarks will not be entirely superfluous. >9B KOUTE TO OHIO. The following may be recommended as a general tour. First proceed to Wheeling ; down the Ohio river to Cincinnati ; across the country to Sandusky Bay by the western route in good stage coaches ; thence by steamboat to Detroit, and, if desired, onward to the western lakes. Returning, by steam, land at Cleave- land, and make an excursion on the canal (which, although about 350 miles long, is not very interesting). Then take steamboat to Buflfalo, whence the traveller may take what route he prefers. The mail, in summer, goes from New- York to Ohio h^ Philadelphia, in ten days, and by Buffalo and Lake Erie in five and a half. Only a few of the principal places on the tour will be noticed. In 1828, a steamboat of 110 tons went up the river to Oil Creek, within a few miles of Warren. Pittsburgh. — The Pennsylvania canal, when com- pleted, will connect this town with Philadelphia, by a navigable communication. The works connecting the present canal with the river, the aqueduct across the river, &c., will be worthy of particular attention. This is more like a manufacturing town in England, than any other in the United States. It would surpass our limits to enumerate all the manufactories here. We can only remark that the greatest iron works in the western country are the Juniata Works in Pitts- burgh. They give employment to 55 persons, and make 26,000 weight of nails in a day, consuming 425 bushels of coal. In 1829, there were consumed in the different Foun- dries, Rolling Mills, and Steam Engine Factories, in and about Pittsburgh, six thousand ions of blooms, and five thousand tons of pig metal. These articles are brought principally down the Monongahela and Alle- ghany rivers. Th«re are nine Foundries, which use about 3,500 tons of pig metal, and employ about 225 hands. The Rollins- Mills are eight in number, and are noTt tjiiefly employed in rolling Juniata blooms, of which they use about 6000 tons. They also consume about 1,500 tons of pig metal, and employ about 320 hands. There are nine Nail Factories, which manufacture daily about 18 tons of nails, and employ about 150 hands. There are also seven Steam Engine Factories, in which are employed about 210 hands. As yet but three steam engines have been sent east of the moun- tains, four or five to the northern lakes, and one to Mexico. Within two or three years past, the casting of sugar kettles, sugar mills, and small steam engines to drive them, for the planters of Louisiana, has be- come a very important branch of manufacturing busi- ness, and is increasing. In addition to the metal and blooms above mentioned, a large quantity of bar iron is brought to Pittsburgh from Juniata. The water was broug^ht across the aqueduct in Nov. 1829 ; and the preparations were almost com- pleted to connect the Canal with the river and steam- boat navigation. There is a turnpike to Erie, distance 125 miles, with a daily line of stage coaches. Zanesville will probably become great as a manu- facturing town ; being situated in a region well sup- plied with iron and coal mines, and streams of water. The appearance of the country along the Ohio at Wheeling is remarkably beautiful ; and the country has thence derived the name of Belmont. The land is undulating, and rises gradually for a distance back, affording many fine retrospects to a traveller in that direction, over a well cultivated region. Considerable quantities of tobacco are now raised here, which will be increased when the means of transportation are improved by the railroad. It is said that four dollars per cwt. will pay the cultivator. The falls of the Ohio were expected to be passable "fy the canal making on the Kentucky side, in 1830, 400 ROUTE TO OHIO. The works are extensive and interesting; and t; facilities they must afford, highly important. Ohio Canal. — Accordinp^ to the report of the Com- missioners of this canal, made in January 1830, the northern division of the Ohio canal, extending from Lake Erie to the Licking summit, 190 miles, was nearly co npleted, and the whole line from Cleave- land to Newark, 180 uiiles, was expected to be opened for navigation early in the spring. The sum paid for constructing hat p.irt of the canal up to the first of Dec. last, was Jjl,916,:>24. The esiimate-l sum re- quired to comp'efe it was 21,201 dolls , exclusive of the naviiiable feeders. Cost (tf the Tuscarawas and Walhonding navigab'e feerjcis wa^. 48,7'21 .iollars. — Making thp whole co^t of that division of the c 'Ual^ including feeders and reservoirs, 1,986,271 dollars. Estimated cost of the Muskingum Side (^ut,or Branch Cut, 35,400 dollars. The whole line of canal between the Licking sum- mit and the Ohio river, 119 miles, an the Columbus feeder, 11 miles, was under contract to be completed, at different periods, before the first of June, 1831. On a part of it considerable work had been done. The amount of work done on that division was 415,769 dollars. The total cost of that division was estimated at 1,501,213 dollars. Aggregate amount of money paid for constructing the Ohio canal, up to Dec. 1, 1829, 2,336,367 dollars— and the estimated sum required to complete it was 1,248,000 dollars — making the total cost of the Ohio canal, 3,584,367 dol- lars, exclusive of the expenses of engineering and superintending the construction. [The Legislature of Kentucky have incorporated a company for the purpose of constructing a railroad from Lexington to some point (not designated) on the Ohi'*; the amount of stock, 1,000,000, with the privi- lege of increasing it, at the pleasure of the stockbold-; ers, to 2,000,000. The price of transportation is to be regulated by the Legislature. The worjs. is to be com- STATISTICS OF 01110. 4Ul inenced within three, and completed within ten years thereafter.] [There are now enumerated three hundred and twenty-three steamboats upon the Mississippi and Ohio rivers, whose aggregate burden is estimated at 56,000 tons — the largest boat measuring 500, and the most common size being 250 tons. A boat now reaches Cincinnati, ordinarily, in from ten to twelve days from the mouth of the Mississippi, while eight or nine days suffice to run from Louisville to Pittsburgh and back.] In 1827 the Portage summit was opened to naviga- tion as far as Cleaveland. This summit is the highest point on the canal, being nearly 400 feet above it. The elevation is surmounted by 42 locks. It is 38 miles from the lake. The whole Miami canal was opened early in the year 1828, with flattering prospects of success and public advantage. It extends 67 miles from Cincin- nati to near Dayton. Cincinnati. — This place is remarkable for the ra- pidity of its growth. In 1800 it contained a little above 2000; in 1810,4000; in 1826 aljove 16,000 ; and in 1829 above 25,000. There are 16 places of public worship; a Commercial Hospital, Lunatic Asylum, Medical College, and the Western Museum. There are nine printing offices, which publish nine newspapers. Here is published the " Western Quarterly Review." Heretofore the business has been done principally with New-Orleans: but the length and difficulties of the voyage, and the exposure to disease operate as great objections to it. Statistics of Ohio for 1829.— \cres of land, 15,878,171, valued at $41,193,000, including buildings. Value of town lots, including buildings, $8,230,985. Horses, 178,319, valued at $7,012,760. Cattlf^, 719,596, va- lued at $5,756,768. Merchants' capital, valued at $3,940,156. State tax, $193,609. County tax, $173,- 993. Road tax, $71,950. Township tax, $52,096. School tax, $47,899. 'IOC' cits: or rniLADKt j-nr THE CITY OF PHILADELPHIA. Hotels. — UniteJ States Hotel, in Chesnut-street, op-' posite the United States Bank. National Hotel, op- posite the post office. Mansion House, in South 3d street, between Walnut and Spruce. Judd's, 2d, be- tween Market and Chesnut. Boarding Houses. — Mrs. Frazier's, in Spruce-street ; Mrs. Swords, Walnut ; Mrs. Allen, 6th, near the State House. Philadelphia is the -econd city; for size, in the United States ; and is remarkable lor the regularity of its streets, which, almost without exception, run at right angles, and are of an equ 1 and convenient breadth. Some of the public bui dings .'^re worthy of particular notice, as among t e finest and most correct specimens of architecture in ihe country. It will hr convenient to the stranger to recollect that the streets running north and south are named First, Second, Third, kc, l)eginning or» both sides of the city, on the banks of the Delaware and Schuylkill, until they meet at the square near the centre. The streets which run cast and west, are generally named after trees ; the lanes and alleys, after shrubs, &c. The JVJarket. — This consists of a succession of build- ings in the middle of Market-street, extending from the fish market on the river's bank to Eighth-street, affording room for a convenient display of the nume- rous articles daily brought in for the supply of the city. rest Office, Chesnut-street, between Third and Fourth. 77te Bank of the United States, in Chesnut-street, between Fourth and Fifth. This is the finest specimen of pure Grecian taste in the United States. It is built of white marble in the form of a temple, with two fronts, each ornamented with eight fine Doric column?. oi the ancient proportions without bases. Besides the banking room, which is large, occupying ihe centre, and hghted through a glass dome, there are many- other apartments, particularly tho^e devoted to the printing ot^ the notes, and that below, which contains the furnace for warming it with Lehigh coal in the winter. Gerard's Bank, in Third, facing Dock-street. This building is also of marble, and presents a beautiful row of six Corinthian columns. The Bank of Pennsylvania, opposite, has two fronts, on Second and Dock-streets, each with six Ionic co- lumns. This is another chaste and beautiful building of white marble. The State House, in Chesnut-street, between Fifth and Sixth-streets, is a large brick building, with court rooms, &c. at either end. In the front room, east of the main entrance, the old Continental Congress held their sessions ; and there the Declaration of Independ- ence was signed, July 4th, 1776. The Athenceum is adjoining, open all day to stran- gers. The Philosophical Society'^s Library and Cabinet. Independence Square is a fine shaded piece of ground, behind the State House. Opposite in Walnut-street, is the State Prison, built of dark stone, and con- nected with a yard enclosed by high walls. City Library, Fifth street, open to the public from 2, P. M. See Franklin's apparatus, and Cromwell's clock. The University contains a medical department, and the Wistar Museum, with a library, garden, &c. This Institution is considered the most richly endowed i among all those in United States. It has recently un- dergone a new organization. A new medical build- 1 ing has been added, and the professors are numerous as well as respectable. The annual income is $15,000. Here is a High School, subservient to the Franklin 1 Institute. The sreneral svstem of public imtriic^>'^ 404 CiXY OF PHILADELPHIA. is extensive and of marked benefit. Infant Schoois are numerous, and the system has been ingrafted on some of the numerous Sunday Schools. The Arcade, in Chesnut-street, is a fine building of stone, with two arched passages leading to Lafayette- street. It is occupied for shops, and has galleries in the upper story. The Philadelphia Museum of Mr, Peale is in the northern part. It contains a large col- lection of curiosities of various descriptions. The birds are very numerous, but not well preserved. The huge skeleton of a mammoth will attract particular attention, bein^ represented entire ; for the parts which were deficient on one side, have been supplied by imitations of those on the other. Mr. Sully's Exhibition of Paintings is opposite the State House, and contains fine pictures. Washington Square is on the other side of Sixth-street, with a handsome church on the southern side, with a range of wooden columns. The Pennsylvania Hospital is a large and admirable institution, in the next street, where great numbers of sick are attended. Twenty-five cents wtll secure ad- mission to the building and gardens, and also to the top. Wesfs Celebrated Picture of Christ Healing the Sick, is exhibited in a neat little building on the opposite side of the street. It represents the Saviour surrounded by a crowd of persons in the temple, among whom are observed many afflicted with various diseases, pressing forward to be healed. In front is a paralytic woman borne by two men, whose healthy countenances form a striking contrast with her cadaverous aspect j and the painter has given a reddish tint to her (eet^ which seem already to have felt the miraculous influ- ence. A blind man appears behind, led by his sons ; and on the left-hand is an infant supported by its mo- ther, with a poor blind girl and other figures. Near the centre is a lunatic boy, rather too shocking a sub- icct for euch a picture ; and a number of Jewi=h Rab (,il\ Ol- I'MiLAi*!; Li'iilA . 405 bis are collected, with countenances expressive of vio- lent passions. The apartment is admirably calculated for the dis- play of the picture, which is universally considered one of the finest and most interesting- in the United States. The Theatre, in Chesnut-street, between Sixth and vSeventh-streets, has a marble front, with the entrnnce under a portico, ornamented with statues of Comedy and Tras^edy. The Masonic Hall is a little beyond, and somewhat in the Gothic style, with a small court yard in front. The Academy of Arts, Chesnut-street, between Tenth and Eievenlh, contains a collection of statues, (among these are Canova's I'hree Graces,) busts, &c. in marble and piaster, rans^ed in an apartment lighted from the top ; and beyond a galleiy of pictures with many specimens of the works of American artists, particularly of Alston, among which is conspicuous that of the dead body restored to life by the boiies of the prophet Elisha. The Jejferson Medical College is in Tenth-street, be- tween Chesnut and Walnut. In Arch-street is a Theatre. The Orphans'" and the Widows'" Asylums* Me in the western part of the city. Academy of Natural Sciences. Pemi's house, Letiiis, court. United States^ Mint.^ &c. &c. Swaim^s Bath is in Seventh-street. ;!!e report of tlie Dirpctor of the Mint, in 1827, states tliat Ibe fuinaee eftVcled wilhiii that year amounted to $3,024,342 :;2, consisting of 9,097,845 pieces of coin, viz. Of Gold, 27,713 nieces ; making $131,565 00 Silver, 6,712,400 ' do. 2,869,^00 00 Coi'per, 2,357,732 do. _ 93,577 32 9,097,845 $3,024,342 32 Tlie coinace eftsctfKl at the Mint durin? 1823, amonnLs t« .52,.?06,87.5, comprising $295,717 in gold coins, ,$1,994,573 in silver, and $16,580 in jcopfwr. The number of pieces of :ill kinds is stated to be $7,674,501. or flip sold liiiijion deposited wt tho Mint within the last vear. vho, yi m 406 CIT!^ or PHILADELPHIA There are two Medical Institutions in tliis city, where lectures are delivered to great numbers of students. The Deaf and Dumb Asylum is a valuable institu- tion ; as is the Friend^ Alms House in Walnut-streety between Third and Fourth, where poor families are j^Iaced in separate houses, among small gardens, and furnished with employment. Mr. Bedell's (episcopal) church in Eighth-street, and Mr. Montgomery's, in Tenth, are considered the finest in the city. The latter is in a kind of Gothic style^ Near the Schuylkill is a manufactory of Porcelain. The banks of the Schuylkill* are well formed for the display of the large public edifices which will be per- ceived ranged along their eminences tor two or three miles, to tlie honour of Philadelphia and the ornament of its environs. A canal was projected some years ago between the two rivers, and was be2:un, near Fairmount. The pro- ject has recently been started again ; and it hds been proposed to make a canal 40 feet wide, 5 feet deep, and a mile and a half in length. The expense is esti- mated at 198,000 dollars. Mr. Pratfs Garden is about 3 miles north-west from the centre of the city, and worthy of a visit. It is a private garden, but tickets of admission may be easily obtained through respectable inhabitants. The situa- tion is agreeable and commanding, on a little cape or proportion received from Mexico, South America, and tlie West Indies, may be stated at 76,000 dollars; that of North Carolina at 21,000 dol- lars; and that from Africa 15,000 dollars; leaving about 20,000 derived from souices not ascertained. Tiie wliole amount received from North Carolina, to the present period, is nearly 110,000. This gold has gene- rally been found to exceed in fineness the standard of our gold coins. The whole coinage executed since tlie establishment of the Mint amounts to 30,465,444 dollars, 14A cents, consisting of 103,081,178 pieces of coin, viz. Of Gold, 1,538,101 pieces ; making $8,255,667 50 ■ ilver, 47,389,086 do. 21,695,809 90 vopper, 54,151,931 do. 513,876 74^ 103,081,178 30,465,444 14^ * The length of the permanent bridge from abutment to abutmeiif i "^4 f-ret six inrhe?— f hat of th^ iip^ter t'eirv 3r53 fee! 4 inche? PENITENTIARY. 407 promontory on the Schuylkill ; and from ihe gravelled walks the visiter enjoys a view down the river, of the basin, the dam, the water works, below which are the State Prison, House of Refuge, Hospital, the two bridges, and on the opposite side a handsome seat €alled " Woodlands." These grounds were purchased, in 1828, for the site of a Poor House, on the plan ex- Pensively adopted in New-England. The Schuylkill Water Works. Pipes more than 32^ miles ; expense of raising, $4f per day. There is a ]arge stone building of chaste architecture, containing 5 large water wheels, which are capable of raising 7 millions of gallons in 24 hours. They are turned by a current from the dam above. The reservoirs are on the hill above, which is higher than any part of the city, which it supplies. Th^^y contain together 11 mil- lions of gallons. The steam engine is no longer used. The keeper demands nothing tor showing the works. The House of Refuge was established in 1828. Penitentiary. This is a large and singular construc- tion, and built on a plan different from that which is at present most in vogue in this country. Tlie prison- ers are to be all kept in solitary confinement. The front of the prison is large and imposing;, like the gate of a fortress. The wall is 40 feet high, built of granite, and encloses a square 650 feet on each side. The rooms of the guard, keepers, and servants, as well as the cooking and washing rooms, are in the front building; while the cells are formed in seven (ong stone galleries, radiating from an octagon in the centre. The entrances to the cells are through little yards from the outside, and each has a wicket door in the gallery. A sentinel in the octagon, by turning on his heel, can look through all the galleries ; and the arched roofs re- verberate every sound, so that he can hear a very slight noise. This prison is built on a principle believed by many to be erroneous. Solitary confinement is a veiy un- equal kind of punishment t^ different individuals, iad 40iJ CITY OJ-' PMILADELniiA. very expensive to the public. This is an extensive experiment on an old and exploded system. The Naval Hospital is situated about 2 miles south- west from the centre of the city. The expense is de- frayed by funds contributed by the officers and seauen of the U. S. Navy, out of their pay. The building' is on an eminence, commands an extensive view, and makes a fine appearance from a distance. The front is sac feet in length, 3 stories high, and will be large enough to lo'ijre 300 or 400 persons. The first story is of granite, and the 2d and 3d of marble, both which kinds of stone are found in abundance in the vicinity of Philadelphia. Several edifices are to be erected at other naval stations for the same objects, and supported by the same tund. . The Arsenal is situated just below the Hospital. The Navy Yard (on the banks of the Delaware). Here, as in most of the principal navy yards in the U. States, ships of war are built under the shelter of im- mense buildings, which protect the workmen and the timber from exposure to the weather. Of the two build- ings here, the larger one contains the line-of-battle ship Pennsylvania, said to be intended for the largest in the v/orld. She is to carry 140 or 150 guns, and is building under the direction of Mr. Humphreys. The smaller house is for frigates. The "Franklin" and " North Carolina, "ihips of the line, and the frigates U. States and Guerriere were built at this place. In 1829 the frigate Rariton and sloop ot" war Vandalia were on the stocks. The north side (»f the navy yard is devoted to bricR buildings for the residence of officers, ship timber, &C. while at the south end are the workshops. The Ma- rine Barracks are on the western side ; and the area of the yard, which is wailed with brick, is about 12 acres. The interests of the city, as well as the coasting trade, will be benefited by the construction of the great « HESAPEAKE AND DELAWARE ©ANAL, 4Q9 Breakwater at the mouth of Delaware Bay, for which Congress appropriated 250,000 dollars. It is an ex- pensive work ; but by affording a protection to vessels on the coast in dangerous weather, will speedily effect a saving equal to the expense. The extensive meadows south of Philadelphia pre- sent a beautiful scene of fertility and cultivation. A ride in that direction at morning or evening is recom- mended. THE CHESAPEAKE AND DELAWARE CANAL. The steamboat Newcastle plies between Philadel- phia and the head of the Canal at Delaware city, five miles below Newcastle. A large hotel is erecting there. There are steamboats plying between Phila- delphia and several other places. On the Chesapeake the George Washington runs between the canal and Baltimore. There is a line of packets. This is the most gigantic work of the kind ever effected in the United States, in regard to the dimen- sions of its parts, and the size of the vessels to which it is intended to give a passage. The object of its construction was to divert a large portion of the trade of the Susquehannah river into Delaware Bay, chiefly for the benefit of Philadelphia. It was partially opened to navigation in April, 1828 ; and the Citizens' Line of packet boats having been established upon it, many traveller* will be anxious to avail themselves of an early opportunity to inspect a construction on every account so well worthy of attention. These boats are 90 feet in length, and very elegant and commodious. Two of the finest barges are the Baltimore and the Philadelphia. It is intended for sloops of the largest class, and schooners : the locks being 100 by 22 feet, and the canal 60 feet wide at the water line. It was originally Mm2 nU CUESAPJiAKE AAJJ DELAVVAlii: CAAAL, intended lo secure a depth of only 8 feet : but it lids since been increased to 10 feet. Tlie steamboats Car- roll and William Penn are very tine and splendid. The latter is 408 tons, 150 feet long, and draws only 4h feet of water ; of the most approved model for speed, with two engines of nearly eighty horse power, con- structed upon the most improved and safe principles. Her cabins are so arranged as to form at pleasure one entire apartment the whole length of the vessel, all of which is highly finished, and decorated with simpli- city, but great taste ; between two and three hundred might dine with great comfort in this apartment ; seven or eight hundred perhaps might be accommodated on her main deck. The principal objects upon the line which will in- terest a stranger ;ire, the harbour on the Delaware, the adjoining embankment on 8t. George's Marsh, the Deep Cut, and the Summit Bridge. Three towns have been laid out on the route : Delaware, Chesapeake, and Bohemia. The Harbour on the Delaware is at Delaware City. It is formed by two piers running into the water; one five hundred feet long, and the other six hundred, with a return pier of one hundred feet. Boats enter the in lock a little distance from this. Swivel Bridge. The first of three swivel bridge^ is passed thre*^ quarters of a mile from the Dela- ware. St. George's Marsh. This is a low, fiat tract of land, over which the tide ebbed and flowed until a great embankment was raised which serves as a towing path, and excludes the water. The soil was so soft and light, that earth was brought from a distance to form the bank ; which gradually sunk so far that it is supposed to have displaced, in some parts, a quantity- equal to a column of forty feet. At St. George's is another lock, of the usual dimensions, and a swivel bridge. At the end of ihree miles the Cranberry Marshes are aho passed : and three railes further i*? THE PEAAalLVAMA OAAAL. 411 The old Mill Pond, which serves as a part of the canal. The Deep Cut is a section five miles long, w^here the height of the bank varies from 8 to 70 feet. Over the middle of it is extended the Summit bridge, a most imposing construction, reaching from hill to hill, with a single arch of 235 feet span, at the deepest part of this immense trench, and bearing its key at the elevation of 90 feet above the bottom of the canal. Schooners and the largest sloops may pass beneath with their masts standing ; and the view embraced by the eye from above or below is grand, impressive, and almost terrific. The Western Lift Lock is a few miles further west ; and beyond this a Basin, 400 by 100 feet. The Dehouche Lock opens at the end of the Basin into Back Creek, at Chesapeake Village, 4 miles from Chesapeake Bay. The principal reservoir on the line is a pond of 100 acres, ten feet in depth. [The Pennsylvania Canal. Under this general name is comprehended a great and extensive system of internal improvements, for several years designed by the Legislature of this state. Numerous plans for canals and railways have been proposed and considered, surveys have been made of the principal routes supposed to be capable of im- provement for the benefit of the public, and consider- able progress has been m.ade in some places in works to connect the waters of the Ohio and Susquehan- iiah, v.'hile navigation has been opened up to the Mauch Chunk Mines, &c. It will be some time before the western Vv'orks will be so far completed as to attract many travellers from the established routes ; but such information as they may hereafter desire, may be looked for in subsequent editions of this little book. Ui:; THE PENNSYLVANIA CANAl.. In 1829, there were 435 miles of finished canals in Pennsylvania, and between 2 and 300 miles remain to be completed. The following^ is a g;eneral outline of the g:reat west- ern plan of internal improvements undertaken by the Pennsylvania Canal Commissioners, as expressed in their report to the Legislature. " From its commence- ment at Middletovvn it stretches to the Juniata — thence up that river to the foot of the Alleghany Mountains on the east, and crossing the ridge to connect the waters of the Susquehannah with the Alleghany and Ohio rivers, ascending the main branch of the Susque- hannah with the dividing point of the eastern and western branches, it contemplates an improved navi- gation to the sources of these great streams, as well as some of their tributarj^ ^ranches — presenting one connected chain of improved or canal navigation of not less than five hundred miles in extent." The eastern part of this work was completed in 1827 — from the Susquehannah at Middletown to Har- risburgh. A Basin is formed in the river at the mouth of the Swatara, opposite the basin of the Union Canal, with which it com.municates by a lock of 2^ feet lift. It has also an outlet lock, and a lock opening into the Swatara of 9 feet lift. The canal lies principally in an easy, alluvial soil from the Susquehannah to Har- risburgh, and passes over extensive tracts of level country. There are ten locks in that distance, begin- ning with the outlet lock at Middletown. They are all 17 feet b 90 in the chamber, and are ^, 7, 8, and 9 feet in the lift. On the first part of the canal, that is, to Clark's Ferry, 33^ miles, the breadth at bottom is 30 feet, at top 40, and the depth 4 ; while the re- mainder of the distance to Harrisburgh it is larger — 35 at bottom, 45 at top, and 4| deep, to supply the ma- chinery at the latter place. The canal passes on aqueducts over Paxton, Fishing, Stoney, and Clark's creeks, and is to be supplied from the Susquehannah,. from 15 mile^ above Harrisburarh, Many rocks were THE rEM^SYLVAKIA CANAL. 413 blasted here. There are basins at HaiTisburgh and Clark's creeks.*] * The Juniata River is a stream of a remarkably romantic character, being enclosed by high, rude, and rocky eminences, which present a constant variety of scenery. Since its course has been selected as a ])art of the great canal route, it may be safely predicted that its scenes are desttned to adi-iinister to the enjoyment of many travellers. From the junction of the two branches the canal will run on the west side as far as Sunbury; a dam being constructed at Shamokin Kipples, which will form anexten.sive and convenient harbour for boats, and afford great water power lor manufactories. The Legislature have authorized \\\e opening of slack water navigation between the river and Bhamokin Coal Mines. On the Frankstown branch of the Juniata river, 5 miles below Franks- town, is an intermitting spring, which often has a flux and reflux three or four times in an hour. Three or four feet from it is another spring which flows regularly and constantly. The following is a listof the works authorized by the Legislature in 1828, in pursuance of the great system of internal improvement compre- hended in the Pennsylvania Canal. Canals and locks are to be contracted for, 1st, from Northumberland to the Ba!d Ea''n)'to the highest practicable point. From 25 to 45 miles each of these sections, and the whole of the French Creek Feeder, were contracted for that season. 6th. Tl^ere is to be located a road across the Ailcghany mountains, to connect the Juniata and Conemaugh sections, to be completed as early as those sections. 7th. A railroad is to be located from Philadelphia through Lancaster to Columbus on the Susquehannah, 30 miles of which were contracted for the first year. 8th. Surveys and examinations were made for a canal along the Mononsahela from Pittsburgh to Virginia. 9rh Surveys and examinations from the Raystown branch of the .Juniata to the Conemaugh, for a canal or railway. For The expense of these two millions of dollars were appropriated. (T^e bank? of the Susquehannah are the most fertile in the south- eastern part of the state; and the mountains abound in anthracite coal. The mineral wealth which the great public works will draw from its beds onust be immense, as well as various.) {a) There are salt springs in the vicinity. The salt water at the Cone- maugh worlcs yields a bushel of salt for 300 gallons. The salt wells on Jhe Kiskeminetas, the same quantity for every 40 or .'iO gaiionv 414 llOUTES TO THE COAL MIInEs ROUTE FROM PHILADELPHIA TO NEW- YORK. (See page 432.) The Railroad granted by New- Jersey, from Camden to Amboy, (with a branch to Bordentown,) will probably be soon constnicted. ROUTES TO THE COAL MINES. In consequence of the opening of the vast beds of coal between the Delaware and Schuylkill rivers, at a distance of about 80 or 100 miles north of Philadel- phia, that tract of country has become an object of great interest; and since the travelline has been re- cently improved by the construction of roads and canals, and the establishment of good inns, stage coaches, and canal boats, a jaunt in that direction is now a very common and fashionable one The Union Canal, which runs from the Schuylkill at Reiding to Middletown on the Susquehannah, will also attract travellers in this direction. Those who find it convenient, will be pleased to extend their journey west by the Pennsylvania Canal from Middle- town to Lancaster. The Pennsylvania Canal Com- pany have some of the most commodious boats on this line, which start from the Schuylkill below the Per- manent Bridge, and go to Middletown. [The traveller may make Bedford Springs an object on this route.] In the tract of country north from Philadelphia are found inexhaustible quantities of coal, in elevated ridges and mountains of the Alleghany range, which are supposed to be connected with those which are known on the western side of the range, although they are of different characteristics. The western coal is easily combustible, and resembles that im]>orted from Tiivorpool. &c.. while the. former !lIlSJtL2. Plymouth Locks. — Here is a canal about three- quarters of a mile long. A little below it is a large spring which supplies a mill. It yields such a sur- prising stream of water, that it was once proposed to conduct it to Philadelphia for the use of the city. The marble quarries are also in this vicinity ; from which stone is sent to the same place. Norristown contains some fine houses, as well as a court house, jail, and two churches, one in the Gothic style, which stands in a conspicuous situation. A cot- ton manufactory or two will be found here. The village is on the same side of the river as the canaL A bridge has been lately erected here 800 feet long. The Sluice. — This is a place where the current of the river was very rapid, and required a dam — 4 miles from Norristown. Catfish IslaniES. The summit level lies on a limestone soil, which makes it necessary to plank the bottom and sides of the canal, to prevent the filtration of water. Narrow boats have been introduced on this canal, fn m a con- viction of their being of easier draft. This work was commenced some years ago by David Rittenhouse, Robert Morris, and others, but given up. The locks are thought capable of passing a boat every five or six minutes ; and the canal, it the banks and locks were raised one foot, would be large enouich for boats of 40 tons, and able to admit the passage of nearly two millions of tons annually. The summit level opens westwardly upon the valley of Clark's Creek. Hence the canal passes on the Swatara river, which has two dams, and whose course it follows to Middle- town on the Susquehannah. The descent to this river from the summit level is 10*2 feet 6 inches, surmounted by 37 locks. There are 12 aqueducts on the whole route, one of them 276 feet long, and another 165. There are 93 lift locks, 75 feet wide and 72 long ; most of them laid with water cement. The boats most approved for transportation on this canal are long, 8 feet 3 inches wide. The tolls on the most coarse and bu'ky articles are half per cent, per mile. Coal, lime, marble, pig iron, &c. pay three-quarters per cent. ; flour, grain, salted provisions, potash, &c. a cent and a quarter ; hoards, plank, &c. one cent per 1000 feet; timber, one cent per solid foot. Salt, mer- chandise, &c. passing westward, pay two cents a ton per mile. The toll on passage boats is twenty cents a mile ; and on loaded freiafht lioats only two cents. "'hat part of the Pennsylvania Canal between the Susquehannah and Harrisburgh, was opened to navi- gation in 1829 ; and large tracts on different parts are in different stages of progress. The following list of places and distances by the canal route may prove of some interest to the traveller. From Middletown to the mouth of the .Juniata, 34 TILE 3IOU2NTAIN DA3I. 4^1 miles ; hence to Lewiston, up that stream, 45 ; from the mouth of the Juniata to Northumberland, 45; thence, up the north branch of the Susquehannah, to Nanticoke Falls, 55 ; from the mouth of the Juniata to Smith's Mills, above Huntingdon, 90; from Middletown to Muncy Hills, on the west branch of the Susquehannah, 100; from Johnstown to Pittsburgh, is 104 miles. It is proposed to cross the Alleghany mountains by a railway 38 miles long, including a tunnel a mile in length at the summit : the whole expense of which is estimated at $936,000. We return to the Schuylkill Navigation.^ From Reading, the road passes for some distance near the river, and affords an opportunity to see the canals, dams, &c. made to assist the navigation. It passes near Duncan's Job, a piece of deep cutting in a solid rock, 60 feet down. This place is five or six miles from Reading. In 1829, a vein of Anthracite coal was discovered at Reamstown, half the distance to Lancaster. Numerous shafts have been sunk near the Schuylkill for Anthracite coal. The Peach Orchard mines afford beautiful particoloured specimens. In these, and others, specks and lumps of perfect charcoal have been found, imbedded in the fossil — with other ap- pearances which tend to raise many conjectures con- cerning the original formation of these mines. The road to Hamburgh from Reading lies through the Great Limestone Valley of Pennsylvania ; which has the Kittatinny chain of mountains on the north, and the Blue Ridge on the south. The surface is beauti- fully varied by fhe natural undulations of the surface ; and the road affords a very fine succession of beautiful scenes, where the well-cultivated farms are usually backed by ranges of fine mountains. The inhabitants dwell in good, and often handsome houses, while their great stone barns speak thorough husbandry. The Mountain Dam, near Hamburgh, is 27 feet high- Nn2 liOLXKS TO THK COAL MIOSES, Hamburgh. This is a small village, with nearly a hundred houses, with a church situated in a romantic position, at the entrance of the Schuylkill Water Gap. — This is a narrow gorge, through which the river runs over a steep and rocky channel for four or five miles; leaving no room upon its banks, which rise abruptly on each side to ths height of several hundred feet. The road has been cut out along the lace of one of these ranges, at a great elevatitin; where the surface is in many places of such a declivity, as to require it to be supported by walls of stone. The views which are here afforded to the traveller are romantic and varied in a high de- gree ; presenting the woody mountains in diflerent directions, with, the course of the Schuylkill winding through them. There is a spring which passes the rov.d, remarkable only as the boundary between two contiguous counties. The Little Schuylkill River, a branch of the princi- pal stream, runs through a valley of the same general description ; and here lies the road to Mount Carbon. The country will hardly admit of any cultivation ; and (ew inhabitants are seen. Iron Works. — The iron works of Mr. Old are situated at the termination of this valley, on a small meadow, §hut in by mountains : a wild and secluded scene. The proprietor has a handsome house ; and the shops and dvvelli!)gs of the workmen are numerous. The scenery beyond retains its interesting character. The Tunnel. — This is a place where a hill has been bored through 375 yards for a canal, about three miles from Orvvigsburgh. Port Carbon, at the head of the Schuylkill navi- gation, is a point at which the railroads of Mill Creek and tho valley terminate. Six miles above, on the MOUKT OARB^Js. 423 ioute of the latter, is Selzers — a new town. This rail- road reaches to within about eight miles of Mauch Chunk. Orwigsburgh, about eig:lit miles from the Gap. This village is three miles distant from the river, and enjoys an agreeable situation, although the soil is not very good. It is rather larger than Hamburgh, and contains a court house, jail, &c. The German language here prevails, and is used in the church as well as in the ordinary concerns of life. Iron has lately been discovered near this place. MOUNT CARBON, eight miles, is in sight of several coal mines. The coal country in this region begins in Luzerne, on the upper part of the Lackawana River, following- its course to the Susquehannah, and along that stream, principally on the eastern bank, to 18 miles beyond Wilkesbarre. It runs south to the Lehigh River, and thence south-west, through Schuylkdl county. It is estimated to extend about 70 miles ; and about the middle of the range is 8 or 9 miles wide, growing narrower towards each end. At Mount Carbon the coal occurs in beds 4 or 5 feet in thickness, generally running east and west ; and dipping to the south at 45 degrees, with a slate rock immediately over it, and strata of sandstone and earth above. The slate, as usual, in the vicinity of coal, presents the impressions of organized substances at some ancient period im- bedded in its substance : such as the leaves of laurel, fern, &.c. In consequence of the inclination of the coal veins into the earth, the miners have, in some places, sunk shafts to the depth of 1.50 feet, with lateral excava- 424 ROUTES TO THE COAL MliNEa, lions, east and west, of various lengths to 300. Two small carriages called Trams, are used in a sloping shaft to bring the coal out, being made to descend by turns ; but in the horizontal one, which has been car- ried in about 500 feet, Ihey employ wheelbarrows. Some of the veins run perpendicularly. Sharp Mountain, 600 feet high, and Broad Moun- tain, 900, are penetrated by numerous mines. The coal is dug out with wedges, drills, and sledges, &c. and as it costs only about $50 to open a mine, and no- thing else but labour in digging and raising it, the ad- vantages are not conBned to capitalists. Wagoners are ready to transport the coal to the landings, and put it into boats. The canal has been extended from Port Carbon up to Mill Creek, which will supply great quantities of coal. A railroad, from 5 to 8 miles long, is designed to be extended from Schuylkill River to the mines on the West Branch. In 1823 th^re were but 5 houses at Mount Carbon ; and in 1827 more than 100, with 1200 inhabitants, besides the landing. Route to the Lehigh Coal Mines. At Mauch Chunk. The traveller going from Philadelphia to the Lehigh Mines, may take one of the steamboats to Bristol, whence a stage coach starts, on their arrival, for New- town and New-Hope, 34 miles from Philadelphia ; and thence for Easton, 36 miles more, nearly all of which is along the bank of the Delaware, and com- mands a view of its wild and interesting scenery. There are three routes from Philadelphia by which Mauch Chunk may be reached : 1st. By the way of Bethlehem ; 2d. By the way of Easton through Doylestown ; and 3d. By the way of Bristol, also through Easton. By either route you reach the village m a day and a half, ffor these places, see Tndex.'] E ASTON. 425 New-Hope is in a romantic situation ; and Goat Hill rises opposite to the height of 500 feet, its top affording a fine view. 2 miles south of this village is Ingham's Spring, which furnishes a supply of water to no less than 13 water wheels. Bridges cross the Delaware to New-Jersey at New-Hope and Mitchell's. Delaware Water Gap. The scenery at this spot is romantic and beautiful. The course of the river appears at a little distance as if arrested by two op- posite mountains, between which it flows in a narrow channel, suddenly contracting itseif to a furlong's breadth, from a broad, smooth, and unbroken sheet like a lake of considerable extent. Every feature in this beautiful scene leads one to believe, that the bar- rier opposed to the water was once much higher than now, and that the country was consequently overflown for a considerable distance above the existing banks. There is some fertile land in the vicinity, and the hills contain many mineral treasures ; iron ore, &c. &c. EASTON. This is a village of some size, and a central point from which numerous roads direrge, and stage coaches run in various directions. It is situated in a rich val- ley, enclosed by the South and Blue Mountains. It is about 52 miles from Philadelphia, and contains about 3000 inhabitants. Within a compass of a mile and a half are 18 mills; and 250,000 barrels of flour are an- nually sent to the capital. Nearly 150,000 rushels of grain are also consumed at the distilleries in a year, and converted into poison for the body and the mind. (Writing slates are quarried in this vicmity.) The following is a list of distances from Easton on the different stage routes. New-York, 70 miles; Scholey's Mountain, 23 ; Morristown, 41 ; Nevv- Erunswick, 45 ; Bethlehem, 12 ; Mauch Chunk, 34 ; JS^azaretb, 7 ; Delaware Wind Gap, 20 ; Stroudsburgh; 4iiib iiOUTE TO THE COAL MINliS. 27 ; VVilkesbarre, 52 ; Belvidere, 12 ; Reading, 52: Newtown, (Sussex county,) 40. \ From Newtown a coach runs three times a week, to Montrose, Oweg^o, Ithaca, and Geneva, and commu- nicates with the Erie canal, and with the direct route to Buffalo. The Delaware ai\d Hudson Canal was bei^un July r3th, 1825, and was navigable late in the year 1828. It commences at Kinijston, on the Hudson River, and runs over to Carpenter's Point, on the Delaware River, through the valley of the Never- sink Creek, thence up the valley of the Delaware to the Lacka waxen Creek, at Honesdale, and up that creek to the foot of the railway. This is a continuous canal of 106 miles in lengrth, and was completed from the Delaware to the Hudson in 1827, and Is now finished and in operation through its whole extent, and coal is passing- in considerable quantities. The railway com- mences at the termination of the canal, and runs over Moosick mountain* to the coal mines on the Lackawana Creek, in length 16 i miles, overcoming an elevation ol 058 feet. Seven locomotive steam engines will be em- ployed onthree planes, and five stationary engines and three brakes on the ascents. The ascents where the sta- tionary engines and brakes are used, are graduated at 5 degrees. The railway and all its appurtenances will be completed in 1828, at an » stimated expense of $178,000. The cost of each locomotive engine about ^1,600, and weight about six tons. Carbondale is the mining village on the Lackawana River, opened by the Delaware and Hudson Canal Company. It is 8 miles from Dundaff, and 32 from Wilkesbarre. At Easton will be seen the dam ov^r the Delaware? '^ From this commanding height the view is fine, and the Calskill Monntnin?:. in IVpw-Vork. are vipjhip. at the dfstnnro of flft or 100 inile= at the termination of the works for improving the na- vigation of Lehigh River, from Mauch Chunk to this place. The state of Pennsylvania intend to extend the navigation, by a canal on the western bank of the Delaware, to Bristol, when the communication will be uninterrupted to Philadelpliia. The road to Mauch Chunk leads through Bethlehem, 12 miles. This is a neatly built place, in a romantic and delightful situation, along the course of a swift running brook. It is inhabited by Germans, and little English will be heard spoken in the place. There is an old church and an academy for the education of girls, under the matiagement of the Moravians, to which sect the inhabitants belong. A little beyond Bethlehem the country begins to assume a more moun- tainous appearance ; and along the banks of the Lehigh they rise to a height of seven or eight hundred feet, or even more. It is related by tradition, that nearly 100 years ago, three men set out trom Brist(>l, to walk, between sun and sun, for the title to as much land as the best pe- destrian of them could cr« ss in that time. The suc- cessful one (Edward Marshall) gained for the con- tractors, from the Indians, a tract extending north-west to Still Water. He passed up the Delaware and Le- high, round Pocono Mountain, 6lc. a distance computed at 119 or 120 miles. The works on the Lehigh River are on a large scale, and worthy of particular remark. The river de- scends 365 feet, and requires 52 locks. The locks are intended for the passage of steamboats capable of car- rying 150 tons of coal. They will all be 100 feet long and 30 wide. There will be 21 dams ; and the canals will be 60 feet wide at the bottom, with 5 feet of water. The view of these works of art, combined with distant sights of the Blue Ridge, renders the Hdge highly interesting. The locks are on a new construction, and can be filled and emptied both in ?even minutes by one attendant. The gate, like -' ii<, MAUCH €11UI\K. great float, is raised when the water is let in ; and, ih^. post being turned round, the water flows over the top of the gate, when it gradually sinks again. Mauch Chunk shows mountains perhaps 1000 feet high. The Lehigh Water Gap, 25 miles from Easton and 11 from Lehighton, 6 miles from Mauch Chunk. Here is a bridge. The river, for a mile, passes through an opening in the Blue Ridge, with barely room for the road be- tween the shore and a precipice. Near this spot is the Devil's Pulpit, a remarkable cavity in the rocks. The first objects that attract attention near the vil- lage of Mauch Chunk, are tlie lock in the river, and the Chute, or inclined plane, at the end of the railway, down which the loaded coal cars slide to the wharf on the river, where they load the boats and arks. The latter carry about 10 tons. The noise of the cars com- ing down the railway will often be heard rumbling as the traveller approaches the village. MAucif Chunk, 90 miles from New-York, and 10 from Philadelphia. There is a spacious hotel in this 5'oung and flourish- ing village, which has been well kept, and serves as the rendezvous for numerous parties of visiters every season. Stage coaches have heretofore run to Easton daily — fare $1 50 — also to Berwick, Newton, and Buf- falo. There are few places where a stranger will find more to gratify him than here. The A'illage is shut in by rude mountains, of such height that the sun is invi- sible to many of the inhabitants during the short days I'he hotel commands a view of some parts of .A *,.iuiSK KAlLVVAi The Railway, whicli leads from near the coal mines to the Lehigh River. This was the second ever constructed in the United States — tiie Qyincy Railway, in Massachusetts, being the first. It extends a distance of nine miles, along the side of a mountain. The sleepers, on which the railway rests, are ot ■wood, which is found a very economical substitute for the iron used in England. The rails are also of wood, 4 by 6 inches, and covered with an iron plate f of an inch thick. The whole construction cost, on a fair estimate, only $4,500 a mile ; while the lowest esti- mate for a road on the English plan was $10,000 a mile. The coal mine lies a little on the opposite side of the mountain ; and the coal cars are first drawn by horses to the beginning of the railway up an acclivity of | of a mile. The summit is 982 feet above the river. The whole work was performed in 2 months and 2 days. Pleasure wagons, like Dearborns, are occasionally lised to carry strangers up and down the railway ; but they often go up in the returning cars. The average. rise of the way is 18 inches in 100 feet, which is scarcely perceptible to the eye, and permits a single horse to draw up three empty cars. Incoming down, however, by their own gravity, the carriages would, if permitted, move with immense rapidity. In 1827 they were restricted to a rate not exceeding 8 miles an hour. It is said that they had previously gone 15 >5nd even 20. The road generally passes along a nar- row shelf, which is alarming to a stranger- particularly in descending ; some of the precipices being 500 or 600 haL The Tun}i€;! is seen in going up, about 400 feet .above the road. It is 12 feet high, 20 wide, and about o „ 4o0 riii; Coal ^iiiNtb. 800 long. It was cut through the mountain in lb2b„ to obtain a short passage to a bed of coal supposed to lie on the other side. A shaft was sunk sixty-four feet from the summit of the hill without finding coal ; five hundred teet beyond this shaft towards the north, a hole has been bored to the depth of one hundred and ten feet ; coal was found at eighty fret, and the auger continued in coal to the extremity of the bore. The Company, however, were disappointed ; but they have an inexhaustible supply of this useful ar- ticle, as their land extends 14 miles back Irom the river, and along the road ; and 10 or 12 miles are un- derlaid by beds of anthracite coal. When the Lehigh, the Delaware Canal, and the Morris Canal, in New- Jersey, shall all be navigable, New-York and Phila- delphia will derive immense supplies of fuel from this wonderful region. The cars are made of strong oak timbers, and planked up on three sides, with a swinging door in the rear. Some new ones, however, have lately been constructed, in which stout sheet iron has been sub - tuted for plank. They are 6 feet 4 inches long, 3 .eet wide at top, and 2 feet at bottom, and about 3 feet in depth, resting on wheels with cast iron rims or felloes 2 feet in diameter, one inch thick, and about four inches in breadth, with a strong edge or flanch, one inch in thickness, and about two inches uide, which prevents them from slipping off the rails. 'J"'he cars may be stopped immediately by a long lever which brings strong bearers against two of the wheels, and causes great friction. The guide to every brigade of eleven cars holds a rope attached to all the levers. A curious machine, called the Brake, is also used. There is generally a stop to be made in the midst of the course, to wait lor other cars passing, and to oil the wheels. Several ingenious expedients have been resorted to in different parts of the railroad, to avoid some incon- veniences which might otherwise be caused by sudden MAUCH CHUNK RAILWAi . 43 i lurns, right angles, cross-roads, bridges, &.c. The rail- way is in several parts supported by a stone wall at the side. Cross-roads are not intercepted by it, for the rails are interrupted so as to correspond with the ruts ; at the short turns, one rail is raised in a curve of a few inches to give the car a new direction ; and at a right angle, like those at the mine and at the chute ahove the Lehigh, revolving platforms are placed which turn thf- cars round, 45 degrees. The cars themselves weigh about 1500 lbs. each, and run on wheels two feet in diameter. Strangers often make an excursion in them for the novelty of the mode of travelling. In 1827, not less than 150 such cars were in use. They carry the coal to the chute above the river, down which they are sent 215 ket. At the end of the railroad is a platform on the bank of the Lehigh River, down which the coal is let over one of the rails on an inclined plane of 750 feet (200 feet perpendicular height), to the stone houses, the wharf, and the boats. Each loaded car is connected to an empty one, which it draws up, by a rope that passes round a large cylinder or drum. A car goes down in about 1 minute and 20 seconds. The noise of the cars on the railway is perceptible at a great distance. In 1827, 132 cars descended in a day, with 198 tons of coal. The Mine, or quarry, as it ought, perhaps, properly to be called, opens upon the road by three passages, cut 8 or 10 feet deep in the earh. These conduct into an area 150 yards long and very wide, and from 8 to 35 feet in depth, formed with great regularity, by the re- moval of many thousand tons of coal, which have been dug out in such a manner as to keep the surface on an inclined plane, where the carts drive in, load, and then pass out at the other passage. The coal is very hard, pure, and black, with a beautiful conchoidal fracture, and perfectly clean in handling. The middle, an area 50 vards across, has been dug down many fee^ 432 rilO-U THILADELPHIA TO NKVV-YOIJE.. deeper, and to it there is another entrance iioni the road. The surface of the ^Tound was covered with a coat of sand 2 feet thick, interspersed with sandstone; under that was 8 feet of black pulverized coal ; and then came the coal itself. Near the road is a mass of slaty coal in undulated strata which is of inferior quality. Near the south or further side of the mine, some beautiful impressions of fern leaves have been found in the rocks. [Bituminous coal has been found, in an extensive mine, at Lick Creek, near the Jersey shore, Lycoming^ county, in Pennsylvania.] Lowryto-sDn, 15 miles above Mauch Chunk, is situ- ated on the Lehigh River, in the midst of a most wild and romantic region. Here are four saw-mills, which are supplied with timber from the surrounding moun- tains ; the trees being cut far above, and slid down their steep sides into the stream. Arks go down, as en the lower parts of the river, by being set off on the flood caused by opening the gate of the dam. Ladies sometimes pass down in this manner, boxes being resorted to instead of arks, to keep out the wa- ten. Materials for building arks at Mauch Chunk, &c. are supplied from Lowrytown. Wilkesbarre. A rough road conducts to this place. KOUTE FROM PHILADELPHIA TO NEW- YORK. A Railroad, to go from Camden to Amboy, in New- Jersey, vf'-'.] perhaps soon become a route for travellers. Going in a steamboat from Market or Arch-street wharf, the ship house, in the navy yard, is seen over the little island in the river. Near the upper part of the city are the ship yards ; and beyond, three glas« hou«es near the water, with white walls and blarV BORDENTOWN. 4oo TOois. A sieeple and a shot tower arc the principal oiijects rising above the great mass of houses in the city. The banks of the Delaware are low, and present a uniformity quite unfriendly to the picturesque. The towns are, however, inteiesting in the history of the Revolution, as will be seen a little beyond. BURLINGfON, in New-Jersey, 18 miles from Philadelphia, presents a handsome appearance ; with a row of fine residences facing the river, in front of which is a street with a beautiful sloping bank. Bristol, a little above, and on the opposite side, has also a number of gentlemen's seats ; and handsome flower gardens on the bank, ornamented with fine willows, &c. A stage coach goes hence to Easton every day, on the arrival of the steamboat — price of a passage, $?>. BoRDEWTOWN, 28 miles from Philadelphia, and 7 below Trenton, stands on a steep sand bank, through which a road is cut to the water. Just north of the village is the house of Joseph Buonaparte, the Count de Survilliers, once king of Spain. It is a long white building, with two low square towers at the ends, and a shot tower near it by the river. Coal Haven is a little town on the west side of the river, six miles above, where arks and boats laden with coal from the Lehigh mines, await the boats that tow fhem^ to Philadelphia. Oo2 4o4 FRO.M PHILADELPHIA TO NEVV-VOKh: Trenton, 33 miles from Philadelphia. Here the Union Line Steamboats stop, except when the water is low ; when they sometimes land opposite Bordentown. Trenton is a town of considerable size, with a great number of stores, and the aspect of business- The bridge across the Delaware has five arches, and is a hand- some structure. Lamberton is a village where the coach offices are. and apparently forms a part d( Trenton. The State Prison is situated a little south of the town. In Dec, 1776, the English had 4000 men on the east side of the Delaware, in Trenton, Bordentown, Black- horse, and Burlington, with strong detachments at Princeton and New-Brunswick, wnth their magazines. On Christmas night, three divisions of the American troops attempted to cross the Delaware : one at Bristol for Burlington ; one a mile below Trenton ; and one nine miles above, under Washington and Greene. This was the largest, but principally militia ; it ap- proached Trenton by two roads, attacking it at 8, A.M. very unexpectedly, and putting the English and Ger- man troops (about 1500) to the rout. Five hundred escaped ; the rest surrendered, being the regiments of Ralle, Anspach, and Knyphausen. Ralle was killed in resisting. The other divisions could not cross on account of the ice, and Washington returned with his captives and six pieces of artillery. This successful stroke greatly encouraged the country, as it was the first victory over those German mercenaries. Washington soon after re-crossed the river, and posted his army at Trenton. On the 2d of Jan., 1777, Lord Cornwallis reached Trenton ; and Washington fortified himself on the Assumpsick. But he was too weak to hazard an engagement j and the Delaware •was filled with ice, Bein^ hardly pressed, Washington had lormed the plan of a retreat, expecting: to be unable to remove any thing- but the soldiers and what they could carry, as the soil was so unfavourable, and the weather so mild and wet, that wagons could not pass. Corn- wallis had sent to Princeton for a regiment to join him, that he might attack the Americans immediately. In the night, however. Gen. Greene reported that the weather had suddenly become cold ; and at midnight, Washington was able to begin his march, with all his baggage and artillery. The British had no intimation of their departure until they, heard the guns firing at Princeton. PRINCETON, 10 miles. This village is situated on an elevated ridge of land, which, on several sides, rises with a long and easy slope, and commands a prospect of considerable extent. In approaching it from the west, the Theological Academy, which is of stone and 4 stories high, is seen on the right ; and Nassau Uall in the centre of the town, opposite the stage house. The college yard is large and shaded with trees; and the burying ground contains the ashes of the presidents of the institution : Aaron Burr, Jonathan Edwards, Samuel Davis, Samuel Finley, John VVisherspoon, and Samuel S. Smith. Washington met at Stoney Brook,' north of the present road, a little way from Princeton, and defeated the British regiment. He then marched north to the higrh grounds. During the battle of Princeton, it is related that a cannon shot entered the chapel, and tore away the head from a portrait of George III. ffri) Brunswick. Here the steamboats start for New-York. Th.i stage coaches drive through a part of the village to the steamboat wharf. The forenoon h'»e stops at the hotelfor the night. r.)0 FEOIH rillLAPELPIIIA TO :sM•^V-YOrvK.. »The view is pretty from the hill above ; whence th public buildings appear to good advantage, particu- larly the Rutgers Theological Seminary, which is under the synod of the Dutch Reformed Church. The banks below are picturesque, but afterward are low and little varied. In the spring of 1777, Washington advanced from near Morristown to Middlebrook, where he intrenched himself on the heights, in full view of New-])runs- wick. The British tried various stratagems to decoy him from this commanding position, and once suc- ceeded ; but discovering their intentions to surround him, he quickly regained it, and they were soon after obliged to give up all hopes of penetratmg in this di- rection, and devoted their attention to co-operating xvith Gen. Burgoyne, who was coming down towards Albany. Perth Amboy, 13 miles. Mere is usually some ship- png. Tlar value. n British Sterling is 4,444 4-9 Mills. /I Iiish is 4,102 32-39 do. 1 fr. or 100 centimes (French) is 1775 do. $1 of plate or 20 reals pi. (Cadiz) is 1,000 do. $1 of Havana 8 do. 1 milrea of Portug-alor lOOOreas is 1,250 do. 1 Ducat or 100 grains (Naples) is 777 1-8 do. 1 Mark Banco or 16 shill. (Ham.] is 333 1-3 do. 1 Rix Dol. or 12grotes (Bremen) is 750 do. 1 Guilder or 40 grotes (Antwerp) is 400 do. 1 Florin or 20 slivers of (Holland) is 400 do. Zl Halifax Currency (N. A. Prov.) is 4,000 do. 1 dollar or 8 reals (Havana) is 1,000 do. FOREIGN WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. Reduced into those of the United States. Great Britain is generally the same. The new im- perial measure, however, is about 3 per cent, larger than the VVinchester,'22 gallons of the old being equal to 31 of the nev/ imperial — one quarter contains 8 Winchester or American bushels. The fodder of Lead in London and Hull is 19^ cwt. The tun of Oil, 252 gallons. — The last of Tar, 12 barrels. The load of Timber 50 cubic feet. FRANCE— 45 35 100 Kilogrammes are equal to 100 lbs. SPAIN— 1 arrobe is 25 lbs. Spanish equal to 24 4 arrobes, 1 quintal, 96 The barra varies from 27i to 33 1-8 ins. The same of Cadiz is 27i The arrobe of Wine and Oil is 4 gals. From 40 to 11 nrmbp^ make 1 pipe. 438 Ai'rE>'Dix. 1 Fanega of Corn and Salt is h bus. and 1 quart- 15 Fanegas are about 8 bus. PORTUGAL— 32 lbs. or 1 arrobe is .33 lbs. 4 arrobes or 1 quintal is 132 Cloth meas. 1 vara 43 1-7 ins. the covido26 1-3 ins. Wine 4 quarteels are 1 Canado or 3 pints. 12 Canados 1 almuda or 4i gals. The moy of Corn and Salt at Lisbon is 24 bus. " " at Oporto 30 " " inFiguieras 55i HAMBURG— 1 lb. equal to 1 lb. 7 oz. 1 li.spound 16 5 ANTWERP— 100 lbs. or quintal is 104 lbs. New qll. ol 10 myriagramnes 204 lbs. 14 oz. Canada and Nova Scotia same as the United States. POUNDS AND DOLLARS. Sterling. Cents. Mills. Id. i* 1 85 2 is 3 70 3 is 5 55 4 JS 7 49 5 is 9 25 ^ is 11 11 7 is li? 96 S is 14 81 9 is 16 66 10 is 18 51 11 is 20 36 12 is 22 22 INDEX, A. Albany . . . 39. 46 Alexandria {D. C.) . 387 Amboy ... 436 Amherst. . , . 282 Andre's Grave . . 23 Capture and Execution 29 Andovtr . . . 334 Anthony's Nose, Hudson River . . . 26 on Erie Canal . . 57 Lake George . . 177 Antiquities 72. 83. 113. 124. 377 Aqueduct, Lower . bb Upper, . . 55 at Little Falls 61 Rochester , . 74 over the Delaware 33 Arnold's Treachery . 28 Armory .... 273 Arsenals Gibbonsville . . 49 Quebec . . 223 A.scutney Mountain . 290 Assoinption River . 213 Attleborough . . . 315 Auburn ... 122 B. Baker's F.ills . . . 246 Ballston Springs . 145 Saltimore . . .389 Bangor ... 380 Bartlett . . . .352 Basin Harbour . . 189 Batavia . . . .115 Bath (Maine) . . 376 {N. H.) . 295 'N.Y--' 15 Battle of Bemis's Heights Bennington . Bloody Brook Bridgewater, or Lun- dy's Lane Bunker's Hill Chippewa . Erie Groton Johnstown Lake George Lexington xMontmorency Pequod . Plattsburgh Princeton Quebec Do. in 1775 Queenstown Rocky Brook Sachem's Field Saratoga Ticonderoga Trenton . Turner's Falls White Plains Beaufort Bellows Falls Bethlehem Beverly Black Rock . Biackwell's Island Bloody Brook Pond Blorinafield . Blue Hills . Books recommended Borough Boston 135 134 91 321 29 102 298 57 170 333 233 247 191 435 230 ib. 81 165 305 135 174 434 295 22 231 288 427 363 109 248 283 166 116 316 19 131 SI 8 4 40 IJordenlowu . . , 433 Urattlcborough . ■, 2fi7 Bristol .... 433 Brock's MoKiiraent , R2 BaftPiy . . o £26 Erookfield . . . r.3i BniTalo . . . . 109 3?imker's Hill . . 3^2 Bursfoyne's, Gen., Expe- dition . . . 133 J^atlle Ground . .135 Quarters . . 143 ■ /Surrender . . .159 Builinoffon, N. ./., . 433 Vermont . ISO. 293 U. Canada . 100 Bytown .... 209 C. Caldwell . . .168 Cambridi^o. . . 324 Canada, General Be- marks on . • ^92 Canals. ^ Blackstone Canal . ^"-^ Cayuga and Seneca . ^^^ Cavii^a and Su^qiK Han- nah . . . 122 Champlain ... 53 Cheromig . . 120 Chesnprake and Ohio SBd Delaware and Hudson 31 Erie . . 102 111 Farmington . . 253 Maine ... 376 Morris . . .17 Ohio ... 400 Oswego . . C9. 106 Pennsylvania . . 411 Kideau . . .208 Welland ... 92 Canal Boat, Description qf\Al Canajoliarie ." . SS Canandaigna . . .115 Cape Diamond . . 227 Carpenter's Poinf, . . ' 32 j^vrhage ... 75 Catskili . _ . Mouniain.s Caughniiwas^a Cayuga Lake Centre Harbour Charably . Charlestov/n, Mass. N.H. Chazy , Chelmsford Chimney Point ('hip{)ewa . Citadel of Queb Cincinnati . Clavtrack Cleaveland . Coal Mines of Pa^ » R. Island Colleges Amherst . And over Brown Burlington . Canibridcje Dartmouth . Hamilton Union . Washington . 7de . . ConciH-d . Congres^JIall Spring ••,,. • Connecticut ^-^vcr Conway Crawford's House . Crown Point 1:2* 34; 23^ 320 28S 192 336 186 89 225 401 38 398 414, Sic. SC9 190 324 294 63 55 266 250 337 154 156 258. 257 346 353 1?6 Dear and Dumb Asylunas 26:= Dedham. . . .318 Deerlield . . . 2S-: Dieskau, Gen., • • ITj • Dobb's Ferry . • -■ • Dorchester Heights • 32^: Dnndns . . . IO(i Dunninuf'Strcet • • 'S- INWKX . E Mohawk's East Bay 241 Montgomery East Canada Creek . 58 Niagara . Eastport 379 Oswego East River 247 Plain . Easton . . . . 425 Putnam Elizabethtown . 436 Rouse's Point Essex, Conn. 258 Say brook . JV. Y. . . 190 Stanwix . F Ticonderoga Fairfield 247 Trumbull Falls, Washington Baker's . 245 William Henry Beliows 288 Wolcott . Carthage . 75 Fryeburgh Catskill 33 G Claverack . 38 Gallway Glenn's . . 163 Gasport Cohoes 55 Gates's, Gfin., Camp Ithaca . 121 Geddesburgh Little. 59 Genesee River Miller's . 246 Geneseo . Montmorency . 231 Geneva . Niagara . 80 Georgetown, D. C. . Rochester . 75 German Flats South Hadley 275 Glenn's FaUs . Trenton . 83 Goderich Turner's . 285 Grand River Fishkill Mountain . 30 Gravesend . Flushing . 14 Green Bay Fraoaingham 331 Greenfield Franeonia . 296 Guelph Gulf Road . Frazer's Death . 140 Grave . 143 H Forts. Haddam . Adams 306 Hadley . Anne 243 Hallowell . Clinton 25 Hampton Crown Point . 186 Hanover . Edward . 245 Hserlem Erie 102 Hartford, Conn. George 172 Vermont Green . 308 Hatfield . Griswold . . 298 Haverhill, Mass. . Herkimer 62 N. H. Independence 23 Hell Gate . Lee 22 Herkimer . Miller 246 P? Gen. 1 XSJ'EX. Highlands . Hoboken 24 ■ 21 Honesdale . 33 Horseneck . 247 Hudson 37 River . 20 Hydrostatic Lock 52 Indians. Menorainies . 113 Mohawks .59 Moheus;ans . . 303 Pokanokets . 308 Oii»"idas . 66 P«quods . 247. 299 Senecas . 114 Tnscaroras 78 Isle aux Noix , . 19:3 Ithaca 121 J Jacques Cartier . 219 Johnson, Sir Wm,, 172 Johnstown . 57 Junction . 53 K Kennebunk . . '371 Kidd, the Pirate, 255 Kinderhook . . 38 Kingston . 31 Do. U. C. . 105 Kosciusko's Retreat 26 Ktardin Mountain . . 380 L Lackawaxen 33 Lafayette Spring . . 147 Lakes. Cayuo-a . 120 Canandai^ua . 116 Champlain . . 238 Erie 101 George . 166 Do. Excursion to, 162 Of th« Clouds 359 Ontario . 101 St. Peter 216 Saratoga . . 157 Seneca . 120 Winnipiseogee . . 341 Lancaster . ii9'7 Laprairie .197 Lebanon Springs . 42 Leroy . .^ , . 116 Lewistown . » 77 Lexintiton . . .333 Little Falls . . 69 Little Schuylkill . . 422 Lock port . . 77 Long-Rranch . . 16 Lonsr Level • . 62 Lorette . . .235 Lovel's Fight . . 349 Pond . . 348 Lowell ... 335 L.mdy'sLane . . 91 Lynn . . • 363 M Maps recommended . 19 M'Crea's IMurder . 244 M'Doriough's Victory . 191 Machiche . . 213 Manayunk . . .417 BJaps. See beginning of the volume. Marblehead . . • 365 Mauch Chunk . . 428 Mechanicville . • 131 INIiantonimo . • 305 Michiffan . • • 1^2 Middletown . • 260 Military Academy— West Point . . 27 Mohawk Castle . . 69 Moheasiitn • 302 Montmorency .231 Montpelier - • 292 Montreal . • .199 IMorristown . . W8 Mount Ascutney . . 290 C.irbon . 423 Holyoke . . 278 Hope . . 308 Vernon . . 3&7 Washington 357 JNahant ... 324 Newark ... INDEX. New- Brunswick . 435 Prisons, State. Newburgh 30 Connecticut Newburyport 366 Maine New-Haven . 249 Massachusetts . New-Lebanon Springs 42 New-York . 24. New- London . 297 New- Hampshire Newport 306 Pennsylvania New-York 9 Vermont Niagara Falls 77 Profile Mountain . Norristown 418 Providence Norwich 303 Q Northampton . 276 Quebec Notch in the Mountains •^ss Qiieenstown . Meadow 355 Quincy O R Ogdensburg 108 Rapids of Niagara Richelieu . Ohio . , . . 397 Oneida 66 St. Mary Orwigsburgh 42:^ Red Mountain . Oswego 106 Reidesel, Baroness, Oswego Canal 69 Rensselaerwyck . Ottawa River 208 HidgeRoad . Ox Bow 295 Route to Maine P of New-England Palatine 59 to Niagara . Palisadoes 21 to the Pennsylvania Faterson . 18 Coal Mines Pawtncket 313 to Canada Penitentiary of N. Yort : 248 to the White Mountains Perth Amboy 436 Railroads. Philadelphia 402 Quincy Pickwaket Mountain 346 Baltimore and Ohio Piermont . 295 Mauch Chunk . Pine Orchard . 35 Rochester Piitsburgh . 398 Rome .... Plainfield . 306 Rouse's Point Plains of Abraham . 228 Roxbury Pittsburgh 191 Royalton Plymouth . 328 Rockaway Port Gtnesee . 105 S Port Maitland . 94 Saco Port Kent 190 Sacket's Harbour Port Dalhousie . 98 St. Alban's Portland 371 St. Catharine's Portsmouth . . 368 St. John's Pouiibkeepsie . 31 St. Lawrence . 198. Prescott . 105 Salem Princeton 435 Salina . - 69. 2SS 378 321 12S 335 403 289 296 309 81 316 ;.86 218 312 342 143 48 77 362 246 47 414 180 33S 316 392 429 73 68 192 317 291 15 37 i 107 192 97 194 213 346 32-5 ^44 1M>EX. Salt works Salt Springs Sar.du«ky Sandy Flill , Saratoga Sanaferties Say brook Scbenectady Schoharie Creek Scbooley's Mountain Schuylersviile . Schuylkill River 68. Shaker Village Singsino; Sleepy Hollow . Sorel S'^illa^e Albany .* Ballston Burning Chalybeate CoJiinibia N<:w-Lebanon Saratoira SufKeld Virginia White Mountains Springfield ■♦quura L-'ke Stafford '?taten Island Stillwater Stonington Stoney Point Sugar- Loaf Hill Syracuse Table Rock Tappan Tariffville . Tarrytown Taiuiton Trenton Thaiiics River Thimhle T*laiids Waterworks 407 72 71 1)1 164 153 33 256 55 56 15 159 417 45,46 24 24 215 40 145 117 347 37 42 153 272 389 347 273 345 371 436 131 300 24 84 24 267 23 310 434 301 Thomastowu 378 Three Rivers , 217 Ticonderoga . - ' • 179.239 Troy . . . 50 U Uncas 303. 305 Utica . . 62 V Vernon, Mount . 387 Verplanck's Point 24 W Wadswortb's Farm . 115 Walpole, N. H. 287 Mass. . . 316 Ware . . 332 Wsshington . 381; Wachusett Hiils 27C Waterford . 12S Water Gaps 422 . 425. 428 Weehawken . 21 Weigh Locks 52 Wf Hand Canai 92 Welles 370 West Point . . 20 Wethersfield, Conn. 262 Ver. . 289 Whirlpool 83 Whitehall . . 241 White Mountains 350 River . 290 Willey House . 354 WilliauQstown . 242 Wilmington, Del. 396 Windsor, Conn. . 271 Ver. . 289 Wiscasset . 377 Wolfe's Cove 219, 229 Wood Creek, near Lake Chaniplaiu . 243 Worcester Y York, U. C. 269 . 101 Maine . S69 Z Zanesvjile «<■ 'H7-j^^-y iiiiiiiiili LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 00141136148