-#-t ; i V m /■ \%7\ • i$* UBRARY~OFCONGRESS. Shelf ,^f UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. fMMuU i^Wvag- """" ""»' ^^J "Walks About Chicago;' 1871-1881 Army and Miscellaneous Sketches. J* B. WILKIE, (Poliuto.) CHICAGO : BELFORD, CLARKE & CO., St. LOUIS: BELFORD & CLARKE PUBLISHING CO., MDCCCLXXXII. COPYKIGHTED. BELFORD, CLARKE & CO., 1880. PRINTED AND BOUND BY DONOEUE & HENNEBERRY, CHICAGO. PREFACE. No apology is needed for bringing out this issue of Walks About Chicago, for the reason that it is done solely in re- sponse to an urgent, demand to that effect on the part of the public. The original book was issued in 1871, just before the great fire; and what was left of it was destroyed when Chicago was burned. The sale had been very large from the moment of issue up to the time of the destruction of the city; and ever since there has been a steady demand for the book. The second part, which consisted of letters from various watering- places, in the ante-fire edition, has been omitted from the pre- sent work, and its place supplied with Walks About Chicago in 1881. In all other respects the book is unchanged. Chicago, 1883. F. B. W. CONTENTS. WALKS ABOUT CHICAGO— 1871. A Triangular Walk — Nord Seite— Southside— West- side, - - - . - - - - 9 Water- Works and Water-Falls, - - - 22 Court-House Ghost, ----- 27 A Walk in the Fall, ----- 33 Orpheus in Hades, ------ 39 How to Quit Smoking, . - 46 Mill on the Prairie, ----- 52 Going to the Matinee, ] 60 The Old Man's Smoke, ----- 65 WALKS ABOUT CHICAGO— 1881. A Walk with a Stranger, - 71 AKMY AND OTHER SKETCHES. A Bohemian Among the Eebels, Pap Fuller's Game of Poker, Recollections of Gen. Fred. Steele, - Some People I have Met, Some Remembered Faces, A Reminiscence of the War, A Desperado who would not Stay Killed, Among the Guerrillas, - 97 112 120 129 135 141 149 159 6 Contents. Uncle James and the Bull, - - 166 Some Eecollections of Allatoona, - - 172 The Revelations of a Window, - - 181 A Revelation of Clairvoyance, - - - 190 A Leap- Year Romance, ----- 199 The Horrors of Masonry, - 204 A Dream, and How it was Fulfilled, - - 213 Getting a Drink under Difficulties, - - 226 A Moral Country Place and its People, - - 234 Bicycular Affection, - 245 All About a Woman, - 252 A Ride to Death, ----- 256 The Most Beautiful Woman I Have Known - 272 asijr^-a- WALKS ABOUT CHICAGO-1871 g_|. — >terf — 4-SJ. A TRIANGULAR WALK. NORD SEITE. I HE geography, customs, productions, people, and so forth, of a new country, are always ^ full of interest. Once, when I was traveling about, I reached a place known among its inhabitants Nord Seite." I spent some time there. I found much to interest a traveler. Nord Seite is situated in about the same latitude as Chicago, and is about 10J degrees of longitude west of "Washington. Its population is about 60,000. To reach it from Chicago, one can take rail to New York; thence go by steamer to Alaska, via Cape Horn; from Alaska south to about the 42nd parallel; thence east by stage and rail, 2,000 miles, to Nord Seite. Nord Seite has an immense body of water en one side, and a river whose main stream and one branch inclose two of the remaining sides. Nord Seite is, therefore, a sort of peninsula. The river referred to is deep and sluggish. It can not be forded. It can not be crossed in small boats on account of its exhalations. These are a combi- nation of sulphuretted hydrogen, the odor of decay- ing rodents, and the stench of rotting brassica. In 10 Walks About Chicago. crossing this river a sort of contrivance is resorted to, which is termed by the natives, Brucke. This Brucke is not always reliable. Sometimes one can get over the river by its means, of tener he can't. The Brucke is built of wood and iron, painted red, and at a distance looks not unlike a stumpy sort of rainbow. The inhabitants of Nord Seite consist of men, women, children, dogs, billy-goats, pigs, cats, and fleas. In estimating the proportion of each of these classes, it is found that the fleas vastly outnumber all the others. They are not only numerous, but full-grown and vicious. In the warm season a Nord-Seiter has a lively time in flea-hunting. In hunting this game the Nord Seiter shuts himself or herself in a tight room and strips to the skin. Then the flea is pursued and captured. Most all the Nord Seite dogs are good flea hunt- ers. They commence hunting fleas when young, without any instruction. Pretty much all their lives are spent in pursuit of this pastime. The human population of Nord Seite is indus- trious. In the flea and fly time especially. The business of the inhabitants of Nord Seite con- sists of a great variety of pursuits and occupations. These pursuits and occupations divide themselves naturally into two large classes. The first in- cludes every other male resident of Nord Seite. These are engaged in selling a liquid which tastes something like a mixture of hops and rosin. It is the color of amber, and is surmounted with a white, yeasty, flaky coronal. The other class includes every man, woman and child in Nord Seite. This A Triangular Walk. 11 class is engaged in drinking what the other class is engaged in selling. From the large admixture of hops in this univer- sal beverage, it results that the residents of North Seite are very fond of dancing. The ladies of North Seite are usually feminine in dress, and oftentimes so in fact and appearance. They mostly wear their hair braided in small plaits, which are again braided in larger plaits, which are braided into still larger ones; and these are once more braided into a large braid, which is twisted, and coiled, and wound and intertwined in, and around, and through, and about, and over, and under itself, till it resembles a riddle tied in a GOrdian knot, and the whole enveloped in a rebus which nobody ever can guess. When a Nord-Seite lady once gets her hair done up in this complex and elaborate style, she never takes it down. She couldn't if she would. The only method of removing this style of coiffure is to shave the head. Intercommunication in Nord-Seite is carried on in various ways. Many of the inhabitants go on foot. Others have a small two-wheeled vehicle, to which are harnessed a dog and a small boy, or a little girl. They also have tracks upon which run vehicles which they term Vagens. The Vagen is drawn by two horses. The Vagen is used principally for the conveyance of passengers carrying goods. It will answer to what would be an express-car in this country, in which each man should ride carrying whatever ar- ticle he wished expressed to any point. I have been in a Vagen in which a woman, on one side of me, carried on her lap a clothes-basket ; 12 Walks About Chicago. in which were four heads of cabbage ; six links of imported sausage ; one bottle of goose-grease ; two loaves of a brown, farinaceous product termed Brodt; a calf's liver; some strips of what is known as Schweinfleisch; a half peck of onions ; a string of garlic ; and a large piece of a fragrant compound known as Limburger Kase. On the other side of me was a woman with a baby in her arms ; a small child on each knee ; two other children, a trifle larger, on their knees, on each side of her, looking out of the windows of the Vagen ; and five other children, of various sizes, pictur- esquely grouped about her knees and on the floor. The same sort of thing was seen all through the Vagen. Each woman either had from four to nine children, or a basket that filled half the vehicle. Sometimes a woman would have the basket and the children both. A very common patroness of the Vagen was a woman with two buckets of swill, carried by a yoke from the neck. The woman with the swill buckets was very common. She usually made her appear- ance at every third square. She didn't generally look very attractive. If possible, she smelt a trifle worse than she looked. . The* Nord-Seiter is economical. No matter if he earn nothing per diem, he always has enough to buy a mug of the amber fluid, and have five cents over, which he puts away in the bottom of an old stocking. There is no newspaper published in Word Seite. But there is a brewery there. So is there a distillery. There is likewise a place where they sell a beverage known as Lager Bier. A Tri'angular Walk. 13 When two or three Nord-Seiters are conversing confidentially on a subject which they wish nobody else to hear, their whisper is about as loud as the tone in which a Chicago man would say, "Oh, Bill!" to an acquaintance two blocks away. When two or three Nord-Seiters converse in an ordinary tone of voice, the result is a tremendous roar. A stranger would think them engaged in a hot, terrific altercation. A Nord-Seite Vagen is an epitome of one hundred and eight distinct odors, of which onions constitute the dominant. Some of the Nord-Seiters speak a little broken English. There are many other curious things about Nord Seite and its population. Any body who has time and money should visit the place. The people are hospitable. Any one can visit them; reside with them as long as necessary; study their customs, and enjoy himself very thoroughly. SOUTHSIDE. Once I described a visit I made to a remote and singular place known to the inhabitants as Nord Seite. During the same traveling expedition, I reached another city which contains many points of interest. This other place is named, by those who reside in it, Southside. To get to Southside from Nord Seite, one takes a steamer to Detroit, via Milwaukee, Mackinaw, and Sarnia. Thence east through Canada to Montreal, thence south via St. Albans, Rutland, Saratoga, and Albany to New York. From here you go to Phila- delphia, and thence west by rail to Southside. 14 Walks About Chicago. By this route one will either reach Southside, or New Jerusalem, by being wrecked on the water or smashed on the land. By this route it is two to one in favor of your getting to New Jerusalem, rather than to Southside. Few men have ever essayed the trip and lived to tell the tale. When you once get to Southside you will feel amply repaid for the risking the perils of the jour- ney. It is a large and thriving city, and has a pop- ulation of less than 100.000. Southside is laid out next to a large and flourish- ing body of water on one side, and a deep and aro- matic river on the other. In the matter of location it is very exclusive. The river is impassable. Birds which attempt to fly over it are intoxicated by its exhilarating perfume, and fall into it and die. Southside has but one street, which is known as The Avenue. All the population of Southside live upon The Avenue. If you meet a Southsider in St. Petersburg, and ask him where he lives, he will say he lives on The Avenue. Afterwards, if you ask him, he will tell you in what city, state, and country The Avenue is located. Southside has street cars which are exclusively for the benefit of strangers visiting the place. Some- times a lady who lives on The Avenue gets on one of these cars. Whenever she does, she opens a con- versation with some one, and tells him in a loud tone that both her carriages are at the shop to be mended. She also is obliged to ask the conductor how much the fare is. Southside once had a fine opera-house in which there used to sing grand artists. But now the opera- house has got to be a combination of hippodrome, gymnasium, and model-artist exhibitions. Where A Triangular Walk. 15 Casta Diva was once trilled sublimely, there is now roared in a hoarse voice, " Captain Jinks of the Horse Marines." Where Queen Elizabeth once strode there now straddles some undressed nymph — of the spectacular persuasion. The Avenue in Southside is occupied by some of the most aristocratic and wealthy families in exist- ence. There are many of them whose descent goes back to Noah and Adam. The hospitality of many of the aristocratic and wealthy families on The Avenue is remarkable. They carry their hospitality to such an extent that a family will often put notices in the newspapers offering all the comforts of a home to a couple of young gentlemen, or to a gentleman and his wife, without children. About one-half the hospitable residents on The Avenue, in this manner, afford the comforts of a home to a few guests. In return for the comforts of a home thus generously afforded them, the guests pay a small per capita tax. This little tax never amounts to more than twice or three times the en- tire expenses of the hospitable family with whom the guests find the comforts of a home. Sometimes a resident of The Avenue will take a few guests for their companionship. The cost of being a companion on The Avenue ranges from all you have in the shape of income to all you can borrow. There are no boarding-houses on The Avenue. A man who can not afford to be a companion in a re- fined family, or whose assets do not permit his enjo} r - ment of the comforts of a home, has to consult economy and go to a hotel, where he can exist for $50 per week. 16 Walks About Chicago. All the people who live on The Avenue keep their own carriages. The gentlemen are good horsemen, and always do their own driving. When a South- sider drives himself out he usually wears a plug hat, with the fur, just above the brim, brushed the wrong way. The gentleman who thus drives himself is generally a fine, healthy, fresh-looking man. The coachman rides behind. He has thin legs, a weak voice, and frequently wears eye-glasses. The young ladies who live on The Avenue are the most beautiful in the world. They always marry for love. Especially if the husband be worth a couple of hundred thousand dollars. Or says he is. When these charming young ladies are married they never get divorces — in less than three or six months. If they do, the case is exceptional. The rule is one year, unless the young man's money runs out sooner, or the young woman gets a better offer. There is one gambling house in Southside. There is likewise a house occupied by young women who are highly painted, and about the purity of whose morals there is some doubt. There is likewise an association of young Christ- ians who pray for the poor, and needy, and the starving. Getting to heaven from Southside is an exclusive, first-class, expensive operation. A reserved seat on the Southside route costs from $1,500 to $5,000 per annum. They run only drawing-room vehicles and palace cars from the Southside depots. Grace, Trinity and Messiah are some of the principal de- pots from out which there run weekly lines of vel- vet and mahogany coaches, in which every thing is exclusive, first-class, tip-top, and warranted to run through without change. A Triangular Walk. 17 A poor man in Southside whe wants to go to heaven has to go afoot. There is only one man in Southside who is footing it. There are some other poor ones who are too weak to walk and too poor to ride. They propose to go to the other place. It is a good deal cheaper to go to h — 1 from Southside than it is to go to heaven. Southside has a fine park some where. Real estate dealers know where it is. It will be a nice, shady place as soon as some trees are set out. All the little boys of Southside are going to take their grandchildren down to the park to play, as soon as the latter get large enough. There is a velocipede school in Southside. Some of the young men of Southside who ride the veloci- pede have to stiffen their legs with splinters to keep them from snapping off. Southside has also a peri- odical published in the interest of woman. The in- terest of woman means, the interest of the woman that publishes it. There is also a man in the com- mission business in Southside. He lives on The Avenue. There are a thousand other curious things con- nected with Southside and its residents which must be seen to be appreciated. It is a good place to go to. WESTSIDE. Any person who has ever traveled much, or who has studied physical geography, must have visited, or must have seen a place known as Westside. It is one of the largest places of its size, and the most singular in respect to its singularity, in the world. To get to Westside, the traveler provides himself with a water-proof suit of clothing, an umbrella, a life-preserver, and a box of troches. He then enters 18 Walks About Chicago. an immense hole under ground which leads mainly westward in one direction, and eastward in another. This subterranean entrance to Westside was con- structed for a double purpose. One of these pur- poses was to prevent anybody who lives on West- side from leaving. The other was because there is a river which nobody can cross, owing to its ex- halations. This subterranean entrance runs under this river. Going through this hole is a work of immense difficulty and danger. The best way to get through in winter is to skate through. In summer, for a few days, in dog-days, there is good boating. The innu- merable cascades, cataracts, pitfalls, and the intense darkness, make its navigation a work of great risk. Like the entrance to Rasselas' Happy Valley, it is constructed to keep people in, who are once in, and to discourage the coming in of those who are out. Once in Westside the traveler finds himself on an enormous plain sparsely covered with houses. West- side extends from the river to a park somewhere on its limits to the westward. Just where this park is, nobody knows. The boundaries of Westside are as limitless and indefinite as the interval from the Gulf of Mexico to the present time. The architecture of Westside is fine aad peculiar. A residence with a marble front always has a butcher's shop on one side, and a beer saloon on the other. The people who live in Westside are as di- yersified as their architecture. Westside has street-cars which are sometimes visible when a rain has laid the dust. One conduc- tor on one of these street-cars washed his hands one spring. At least it was saicl that he did, Nobody A Triangular Walk. 19 was ever able to tell when the time was, or which conductor it was that did it. Whenever a man in Westside builds a house and puts up a fence in front of it, he immediately calls the space in front of his lot an avenue. Sometimes a Westside avenue is as much as 200 or 300 feet long. Every other shop on Westside is owned by a butcher, who has always a bloody and half-skinned calf hanging up in his door for a cheerful sign. The thing is so agreeable to Westsiders, that, on every pleasant afternoon, the ladies take their knitting- work, and go and sit in front of the butcher's shop. Westside is the residence of a good many notable, strong-minded women. These strong-minded wo- men all have virtuous and docile husbands, who are further characterized by their sweetness, and their retiring dispositions. Whenever a Westside woman gets to weigh 270 pounds, she immediately starts out in favor of woman's rights. In this weigh, she is able to afford great weight to the cause which she advocates. Every woman on Westside once lived on The Avenue in a place known as Southside. Whenever she goes down town, she goes to visit a friend on The Avenue. Whenever she has been down town, she has been to call on a friend who lives on The Avenue. A good many ladies who live in Westside carry the idea, in the cars, that they live in Southside, on The Avenue, and are only in Westside for a visit. The uncle, aunt, cousin, grand-mother, brother-in- law, step-sister, half -uncle, and god-father of every body in Westside lives on The Avenue in Southside. No young lady in Westside will receive permanent 20 Walks About Chicago. attention from a young man unless he lives on The Avenue in Southside. When a Westsider of the female persuasion dies, her spirit immediately wings its way to .the blissful and ecstatic realms of The Avenue on Southside. The railway companies in Westside never water their track. They do their stock. The result, in both cases, is to throw dirt in the eyes of the public. There are no carriages in Westside. It is so dusty there, that a vehicle which does not run on rails can never find its way from one point to another. When it is not dusty it is muddy. The dust has no top, and the mud no bottom. In either case, locomotion, except on tracks, is impossible. Westside has no newspapers. It likewise has no opera-house which is used as a circus. Its principal local amusement consists, among the men, in chew- ing tobacco, and among the women, in going to church. Wherever there is a corner in Westside not occupied as a drug store, it is occupied by a church. All the churches in Westside have something going on in them every evening, and seven after- noons in every week, and four times every Sunday. Whenever there is anything going on in any church, they toll the bell for an hour and a quarter before it commences, and at intervals during the perform- ance. The result is, that every man in Westside hears from one to eleven bells tolling cheerfully three fifths of his time. A stranger in Westside would conclude that the whole town was dead, or that ten or fifteen melan- choly funerals were in progress in every neighbor- hood. There is one church, on the corner of Wash- ington avenue and Robey avenue, that has been tolling its bell without cessation for two years. When A Triangular Walk. 21 there isn't a prayer-meeting, or somebody dead, they toll it for somebody who is going to die. They use up a sexton there every thirteen days. When there is no prayer-meeting, or any thing else, or any body dead, or any body who is going to die, then the bell tolls for the last deceased sexton. Westside is immensely philanthropic. It has an asylum for inebriates from Southside, and other places. This asylum has often as many as from one to two inebriates who are undergoing treatment. The treatment consists in leaning against the fence, when tight, and in stepping over the way to a saloon and getting tight, when sober. The asylum is a very cheerful building, with enormous windows of four by six glass. Some of the rooms are fine and airy, and would answer for dog-kennels if enlarged and properly ventilated. There are a good many other peculiar things in Westside, which can be better understood by being seen than by being heard of. Any body who dares to face the dangers and darkness of the hole in the ground by which one reaches Westside, will be well repaid for his visit. WATER-WORKS AND WATER-FALLS. HEN one lacks a theme 'upon which to write, he can always fall back on Chicago. Other subjects have a depth which is fath- |P omable; Chicago, like its mud, is bottomless. One can always write about Chicago with- TT out wearying himself or his readers. He may write of it as a whole, — a mud-hole, — if he chooses, and never exhaust it. He may deal with it in particulars, and never reach their end. The great event of the past week was the great tunnel. And speaking of water-works irresistibly reminds one of our ladies. And this again necessi- tates raptures. What is there more beautiful in song or story, in romance or legend, in dreams or in imagination, than the latest style of woman? Her water-fall, tied on the top of her head, may be said to be at high tide. There is nothing so charm- ing as the present style. What can be more rakish than the little flat hat, one end of which rests on a delicate nose, and the other, reaching aspiringly up- wards, upon the towering water-fall? The nose of the ladies is out of joint. Once it had its own bridge; now it serves as a pier for a bridge from nose to chignon. The part of the head thus bridged is that which usually contaiDS the intellectual faculties. Bridges are generally built over abysses. There is ordina- rily nothing under a bridge. Is there any thing Water-Works and Water-Falls. 23 Under these hat-bridges? Are they constructed be- cause there is emptiness, space, vacuity, an abysm between nose and waterfall? The elevated chignon now covers the organs of amativeness and self-esteem. When women lack a development jn any part, they usually supply it. Why they should pad either of these phrenological developments, one fails to see. It is like carrying coals to Newcastle. The latter of these two organs is always of full size in the sex. The other is never deficient. It is the most beautiful development in woman. With it she loves early and often. From a water-fall to water- works the transforma- tion is natural. In this connection, it is gratifying to be able to state that the new water works well. Not well-water, but lake-water is meant. The new water which comes through the tunnel is of the most remarkable purity. It is so perfectly clear and transparent that, when frozen into ice, it becomes invisible. When a goblet stands before one at dinner, he has to thrust his finger in it to know whether there is water there. In some respects it is inconvenient. A pail left over night, half-filled with water, will contain a half-dozen drowned rats in the morning. They leap into the pail thinking that there is nothing in it. It is dan- gerous to leave water-tubs about that have water in them; children get into them to play, under the impression that they are empty. Small children are very frequently found in a very wet condition. The introduction of the new water, has ruined filter manufacturers. Passing our water through a filter has the effect to purify the filter and to foul the water. Speaking of water-fowl leads to the inquiry 24 Walks About Chicago. as to whether there is any philological connection between these birds and an aqua-duck? Not only are filter dealers about to fail, but hotel and boarding-house keepers are experiencing a heavy loss. A pitcher of water, which once went a great ways in house-keeping, is now of no account save to quench thirst. Many families that, on Fri- day, drank only Chicago water, now have to buy their fish at the market. In fact, the expenses of living in Chicago have increased. Where there was once a surplus, there is now a defishency. Before the tunnel was bored, board was a more profitable affair than it now is. Then it was like the water, — there was something in it; now. like the water, there is nothing in it. The cleansing properties of the new water are wonderful. Children whose faces have been washed in it have been lost and never found. Their mothers can not recognize them. It is proposed to estab- lish a place where lost children may be gathered, and where only the old water will be used in their ablutions. In time, it is expected that many young children, whom nobody now knows, will be recog- nized by their parents. Long-married people who wash themselves in the new water undergo all the satisfaction of a newly- married pair. She seems some other woman. He appears some other man. The jaded routine of their old life disappears. There are the freshness, the piquancy, of a new love. She is tender, believ- ing him some gentle stranger. He is gallant, think- ing her some beautiful young Thing. Some queer results attend the invisibility which characterizes the puritj^ of Chicago water. The day that the water was let in, there was an alarm Water- Works and Water-Falls. 25 of fire. The engines proceeded to the conflagation. It was that of $250 worth of cigars, insured in four companies at $1,000 each. The hose was reeled off and attached to the hydrants. The firemen directed the nozzles towards the burning establishment. There was a tremendous rush, as of air, but appa- rently no water. The real state of the case was not suspected until a passing dog, that happened to go in a line of the stream, was stricken with hydro- phobia. The result of the occurrence is well known. The owner of the cigar stock got his insurance, and went back to his native clime south of the Baltic. When last heard from, he was engaged in giving advice to some poor countrymen. He told them to go to America, and that their best policy would be to insure something. He assured them that the risks in this business were small, and the premium for a virtuous adherence to the business lucrative. Speaking of insurance suggests that competition in this line grows more lively every day. A com- pany has just been started that offers heavy induce- ments. It will take small cigar stocks at a minimum of four times their value; and it presents, along with each policy, a barrel of shavings, a bottle of turpen- tine, and a box of matches. Insurance companies in Chicago are doing a fine business. A good many men have latterly been able to retire to private life. Nearly all of those who have retired have large balances at the bank. These balances appear on that side of the bank-ledger known as " Dr." Insurance, however, has no special connection with Chicago water, unless it be marine insurance. In this case there is some. Marine insurance is not 26 Walks About Chicago. the life assurance of marines. It refers to vessels which cross that crystal reservoir from which Chi cago now draws its water. The purity of Chicago water is guaranteed from the fact that it reaches us through a hole. Water that comes to us through a hole must be wholly water. It does not, however, follow that it is holy water. It is simply good, pure water. It is good enough to form the subject of a poem. The eau de Chicago might be used as the theme of a cold water ode. Perhaps some future poet, struck by the gorgeous spectacle of our grandeur, may attempt this ode. If he does, he had better make it " owed." A century hence, what Chicago owed in 1867, will be a greater subject of reflection than its water- works. COURT-HOUSE GHOST. HE writer was taking a walk around the court house square. There is a nice prome- ^^ * nade in the public square. Especially after ,2 i - <8> night. The massive court house is piled up like immense masses of darkness bordered, with gray. It is a cool place. Whatever way one goes, the fierce winds come howling around the corners of the rectangle, meeting him square in the face. If he turn and go the other way, the winds hasten back, and are in waiting to meet him in the face at the next corner. If one is a little lonely, he need not lack for com- panionship. He can get up a conversation at any time with voices that issue through the grates. Not a very select conversation, however; at least on the part of the voices behind the grates. There is much oath. There are allusions suggestive of moral rot- tenness. Expletives odorous with blasphemy. Not much will be said by the voices behind the grates to excite the admiration of a healthy Christian. It was a cloudy night on which the writer amused himself by walking in the square. A mist had set- tled over the street lamps, and their light seemed to issue through long tubes, whose inner surface ap- peared covered with grayish points, like long hairs. Nothing was visible anywhere, save in dim outline. No pedestrians anywhere were visible. There came 28 Walks About Chicago. indistinctly the click of billiard-balls from a half- obscured mass of light in the Sherman House. Suddenly, as the writer stood listening to the voices behind the grate, there stood before him a gigantic figure. He did not appear to have come there. He appeared, as it were. There was no sound of steps to announce his coming. He stood there like a tree, as if he had always been there. He was wrapped in a heavy overcoat. Tall boots passed above his knees, and disappeared beneath his coat. An immense cap was drawn down over his ears and forehead. A large shawl inclosed his neck and the lower portion of his face. No portion of the countenance was exposed, save his eyes. The writer was startled at the abrupt appearance of the stranger, and his motionless attitude, At the very moment that he appeared, the air seemed im- pregnated with a foetid odor. " Who are you ?" said the writer, as he involun- tarily covered his nose with one hand, and with the other felt for the butt of his revolver. " Who am I?" said the stranger, in a strange, hol- low voice. "Who am I?" he repeated slowly. "I will tell you who I am. I am the incarnation of stench. I am, in short, the Court-House Ghost." "You don't tell me!" " Truly, I am. If you doubt, use your olfactories." " I'f aith, I can no longer doubt the former part of your assertion. But the ghost part I am not so sure of. I am inclined to suspect that you are a bone- boiler just in from the South branch. Or a he-Naiad, just arisen from the Chicago river." "No. I am what I say. lam the Court-House Ghost. It's me who has been groaning so dismally Court-House Ghost. 29 through the corridors of the jail. I was seeking an outlet." " Being a ghost, why need you make any extra effort to get out?" " Because, since the cold weather has come on, every crack and orifice in the jail has been so stopped up that there was no exit. Hence my groans. In warm weather, I have no trouble to come and go when I please." " Exactly. Well, do you travel around much?" "Oh, yes. I am fond of going around. I am partial to amusements. I like Wood's Museum. I go there often." " Precisely. I think it likely. I may never nave seen you there; but, if not mistaken, I have smelt you." "Undoubtedly. I go there almost every night./ " And do you have no other resort?" "Oh, yes, of course. Next to the Museum, I am partial to McVicker's. On crowded nights, I can't say but what I like the latter almost as well as the former. I sometimes, on benefit or fashionable nights, like to drop into the Opera-House. But, as a general thing, I don't like that place. It is too large and airy, and I become lost in its vastness." "Do you do anything else when you come out- side?" "Yes, next to going to places of amusement, I like the horse-cars. I spend a good deal of time on the horse-cars. Latterly, however, the roads have been torn up so much that my favorite routes have been much interfered with. My preference is for Archer road. That has been all right this summer, I used to be very fond of the Halsted and Milwau- kee lines. But, just to defeat or annoy me, those 30 Walks About Chicvgo. roads have been torn up all summer, and, in conse- quence, I have been swindled out of a good many- pleasant trips." " Are you a member of any church? Do you patronize the Sabbath services?" " You take me for a heathen, sir?" " No, sir. I take you for a son of old rancidity, by a marriage with some member of the highly re- spectable assafcetida family. That's all. Don't take offence." " No offence. Well, then, I do attend church very regularly. Some of the churches in town are favor- ites of mine. I am partial to all the services, but especially to those held in the evening." " I think I have recognized your presence in sev- eral cases. As a general thing, you seem to be a favorite. In my own case, I must say that I have given more attention to you than to the sermon. Usually, there is more of you. You appeal, so to speak, more to one's senses." ' 'Yes, I am rather a favorite among the religious people. Somehow, folks have fallen into the way of thinking that I am a necessary part of Divine service. If I were not present, they would not think the performance complete. I infer that I am much liked from the fact that nearly all the churches are built with special reference to my convenience. They are so fearful, apparently, that I will not stay with them, that they are careful to allow no avenue of escape. I rather like it. Usually, the sisters are charming. It pleases me to be with them. I nestle among their furs and tresses. I brush their rosy lips, and mingle myself with their breath. I am very fond of women, I am," Court-House Ghost. 31 " Well, my sentimental extract of putrescence, what else do you do to amuse yourself?" " Not much of anything in particular, but a little of every thing in general. Sometimes I visit a twin brother of mine who resides at Bridgeport ; and I linger, at times, over the bridges to inhale the in- spiriting odor of that romantic stream, Chicago river. Occasionally, late at night, I take a ride, on a scav- enger's cart, into the country. Sometimes I go over to the Armory, and I always attend the morning sessions of the police court." " Well, now, my amiable fetor, tell me what place you like best, You seem to have been pretty much all over Chicago, and are prepared to say what you prefer. Have you a choice of residences — of loung- ing places?" "By all means, sir, in the language of the poet, ' There is no place like home.' My home is the basement of the court-house. There is no place like it. I am as old as 3 or older than, the ' ancient, fish- like smell ' of which you have doubtless heard. I am the biggest old smell in Chicago. I was born in the jail. I love it. None of my numerous relations ever had a home like mine. It is so exactly adapted to my convenience, that sometimes I think it was built expressly for me. If so, blessings on the archi- tect! In any case, benisons on the authorities who are so careful to minister to my comfort!" At this moment the spectre seemed to grow emo- tional. It drew its sleeve rapidly across the abyss between the bottom of its cap and the top of its neck-handkerchief. "Yes, sir," it continued, "it's very generous of 'em. I wouldn't 'a thought anybody would 'a done it for a poor old stink like me. It must be on ac- 32 Walks About Chicago. count of my age. I am one of the oldest inhabi- tants. I was born right here in Chicago, and I've grown with the city. All the jail officials like me. The jailor is an especial good friend. He spends nearly all his time in my company. In fact, so much are we together that any one would take us for brothers. In a good many points you can't tell us apart." "Where are you going to-night?" asked the writer as the bell in the Court House commenced striking midnight. " I came out to go to the limits on some of the last cars. I generally go out with some of 'em when the nights are cold. Good-bye, stranger." Before the writer had time to respond to the salu- tation, the ghost of the Court House had disap- peared. Removing his hand cautiously from his nose, the writer hurried from the vicinity. A WALK IN THE FALL. HICAGO has entered the fall season under very favorable auspices. Chicago always Ip^* enters upon a change of season under 1^ favorable auspices. When it commences the summer, it has a promise of its magnificent summer climate. When it begins winter, there are foreshadowings of skating, and sleighing, and pretty ankles, and much else more or less elevating. In the beginning of spring, it is very pleasant to re- flect that only three months of mud and mean weather separate us from summer. The autumn is mainly pleasant as being only one remove from win- ter. The fall season in Chicago, like everything else hereabouts, is a good thing. It is the bridge which connects glorious summer with magnificent winter. Its coolness begins to tell a little on the smells at the Museum and the Theatre. Only a little, how- ever. It takes a killing frost to effect either of them to any appreciable extent. Even then no great effect is produced. These smells have a good many lives. They are frost-proof. One of them is about four and the other is six years old. So to speak, they are just in the prime of life, and give promise of a long lease of existence. There is a younger smell at the Opera-House. It is what might be called a baby smell in comparison 34 Walks About Chicago. with the veterans at the other places. But it is growing and thriving. In time it may be as stout and healthy a smell as that on exhibition at either of the other places. There is no truth in the rumor that Wood and McVicker are negotiating to trade smells. A trade would be a good thing to the respective audiences, by way of variety; but it would be a good deal of trouble to make the transfer. Ne'ithei would it bear transportation on a dray, owing to its size. There isn't any truck in Chicago large enough to handle either of them. The fall season affords tourists a fine opportunity to inspect Chicago in detail. One of the most fav- ored localities now visited by travelers is the wilder- ness known as Union Park. Several scientific par- ties have lately been organized to visit the mound in this park. It is a great curiosity. Last week a party of savans, composed of the members of the Chicago Academy of Sciences, went out to examine the mound. Taking two days' provisions, ladders and ropes to make an ascent with, and theodolytes and quadrants to take observations with, and shov- els and picks to dig with, they went to the park, and went into camp at the foot of the wonderful mound. The following are extracts from notes of observa- tions taken during a three days' visit to the celebra- ted mound: "The Committee appointed by the Chicago Acad- emy of Sciences, having provided themselves with abundant provisions and scientific instruments, pro- ceeded at once to the examination of the mound near West Lake Street, in what is known as Union Park. A Walk in the Fall. 35 "This celebrated mound has hitherto been sup- posed to be either a tumulus, or else a species of lusus naturoe. "It presents, at a short distance, the appearance of an irregular hemisphere lying upon its flat side. A closer view showed your committee that its color is dark 'gray, not unlike that of the unctuous, tena- cious mixture of alumina and silica known as clay, and excavated everywhere in our streets. " It is entirely destitute of vegetation; from which fact, and the color of the mound, Dr. Andrews was inclined to believe that the mound was of volcanic origin, and that it was composed of lava worn into its present shape by attrition from the receding waters of Lake Michigan. " There arose a discussion as to the origin — a por- tion of the committee favoring the volcanic theory, and another portion what may be termed the tumu- lous explanation. It was finally agreed to postpone a priori discussion and! proceed with an examina- tion. "Around the base of the mound were found small, roundish stones, having veins, clouds and other vari- ations, and evidently the result of simple concretion, or incrustration around a central mucleus. They are better known as pebbles. There were also frag- ments of carboniferous rocks, which appeared as if they had been broken from the parent mass by some tremendous force. "Dr. Reily thought they resembled a good deal the pieces of rock taken from the limestone quarries near the Artesian Well, and, being there broken by machinery, are used for macadamizing streets. "By the use of ladders and ropes, an ascent of the mound was accomplished. Immediate preparations 36 • Walks About Chicago. were made for an excavation. The crust was dense and almost as hard as a rock. This fact confirmed Dr. Kennicott in a belief that the origin of the mound would be found connected with the azoic- period of formation. "After the crust had been penetrated to the depth of six or seven inches, the process of excavation grew more easy. The entire absence of organic remains at this point of penetration seemed to rather strengthen the opinion of Dr. Kennicott as to the azoic origin of the mound. " Ten inches from the surface the committee found a large leaf in a partial state of preservation, and whose extent, color and odor, not unlike that of saur kraut, were like those of the brassica oleracea, or common cabbage. This remnant, being unmistaka- bly vegetable in its character, at once overthrew the theory of the reference of the mound to an azoic period. " About a foot below the vegetable, a tough, stiff, leathery article, not unlike a boot sole, was found. Eighteen inches below the latter, in a stratum of a gravelly character, we found the body of a vertebrate animal in a tolerable state of preservation. Its back- bone ultimated caudately about fourteen inches. Its head was rounded, face oval, jaws armed with long, sharp teeth, and feet with keen claws. The entire" body was covered with soft, short fur, and the ani- mal belonged unmistakably to the genus felis. A very powerful and unpleasant odor, like that which accompanies animal decomposition, attended the body found in the mound, and prevented that examination which the committee were disposed to 0*1 ~\Tf* 1 "t" A Walk in the Fall. 37 "The committee would request further time in making up their report. The presence of scoriae and ashes in great abundance in the mound induces a portion of the committee to adhere to the theory of a volcanic origin. The only point upon which the committee have agreed is, that the origin of the mound can not be referred to the azoic period. " The presence of the leaf of the brassica oleracea would seem to warrant the conclusion that, at some remote period, some members of the great Scandina- vian family visited the continent; and it may be that they erected this mound in order to celebrate some religious or other rite. A common pine board, upon which appeared the Runic inspiration 'kabbichplanz fur sel ' would strengthen this idea; but upon this point your committee are not yet agreed. "The presence of a specimen of the genus felis leads Dr. Andrew to argue that, at whatever period the mound was formed, there must have existed cotemporaneously rats and mice and political meet- ings. The offensive odor surrounding the specimen has prevented an exhaustive examination, such as the committee would be glad to give. So soon as this odor abates in its intensity, an examination will be held, and further and more important informa- tion will undoubtedly be elicited. • "Conclusions with reference to the specimen re- sembling the boot-sole are withheld, in order to give the committee time for more extended observation. "In submitting this fragmentary report, your committee desire simply to gratify the intense curi- osity of the public in regard to this remarkable mound. We, therefore, present our labors up to the present time, and ask the indulgence of your honor- 38 Walks About Chicago. able and learned body, and of the public, for a few weeks. The committee are not without the hope that further time will result in a cordial unanimity of opinion, and of a complete explanation of the phenomena attending the mound." ORPHEUS IN HADES, EOPLE who take a trip around town any where must have noticed a good many W^ highly-colored bills, upon which is printed 1*} J the somewhat prof ane sentence: "Orpheus in jt Hell." It has also been rumored about town that there is a mysterious secret connected with this placarded profanity. Somebody has mentioned to somebody else that Orpheus was a man of family, and that his wife, by some means or other, got into h— 11. This slender information, bruiting about, has crea- ted a good deal of inquiry among married men. They are anxious to find out how Mrs. Orpheus was sent there; and whether or not the same process is available at the present day. As to Orpheus' attempt to get the lady out of limbo, there is no curiosity among these same mar- ried men. None that I have heard of take the least interest in this part of the story. All they want to know is how she was gotten there. What bearing this curiosity has upon the condi- tion of the married men who entertain it, must be imagined. It may be well to state that no great amount of sympathy is expressed by these married men when they learn that the effort of Orpheus to get his wife out of h — 11 was an ignominious failure. 40 Walks About Chicago. To gratify the curiosity of these married men in regard to this affair, I will summarize its principal points: Orpheus was a young man who lived in Thrace, a good many centuries ago. He was a sentimental young man, who boarded with a widow, and who used to amuse himself by playing on a flute every night, after the rest of the boarders had retired. In this way he used to give voice to his otherwise unutterable melancholy,, and which he always ad- dressed to the sweet stars. One night when he was tooting, in the tenderest manner, Le Sabre de Mon Pere — an air just then in- troduced — he was heard by a young seminary girl named Eurydice. She was just seventeen, and full of gentle poesy. She, too, was afflicted with a profound melan- choly, which came, she knew not whence. She often thought it would be so sweet to die, and be buried somewhere, with flowers over her grave, and have a nice young man come thither and weep over her untimely end. She read Byron, and went to all the matinees. To her a young man seemed the most perfectly splendid thing that ever was created. She heard the plaintive strains of Le Sabre de Mon Pere, as they stole gently through the starry night. They struck a responsive chord in her maiden heart. Suffice it that these two, drawn by an irresistible sympathy, were not long in meeting and loving. An engagement followed, and then a wedding. It was a grand affair, and was held in public, in a church. A great many tickets were issued, and everybody was invited. Hymen himself came over Orpheus in Hades. 41 to attend the nuptials. It was a very gorgeous ar- rangement, and was fully reported at the time in the daily newspapers. The names and dress of the bridesmaids were all given; and the bridal presents, which had been lent for the occasion by an accom- modating jeweller, were minutely described. In the way of a wedding it was a very big thing. The nuptial night was one of the grandest and most interesting known. But, alas! while on their wedding tour, the lovely bride went out shopping one afternoon, and was bitten by a demnition snake. This afflicting event is thus beautifully alluded to by Mr. Ovid, who was, at that time, " doing " the Jenkins for a daily news- paper: — " Nam nupta per herbas Dum nova Naiadum turba comitata vagatur, Occidit, in talum serpentis, dente recepto." Nothing more thrilling was ever written. She died of the bite. What became of the snake is not on record. She was " snaked" out of exist- ence. As soon as she was dead she went to h — 11. In ancient times all women went thither. Is there any evidence that the modern custom, in this respect, is any different from the ancient one? Orpheus felt vexed about the matter. He was dis- turbed. It made him uneasy* At length he made up his mind to go after her. Having a relative who was a Radical member of Congress, he had no difficulty in getting letters of introduction to Pluto, and to a good many intimate friends and relatives of congressmen in the infernal regions. Armed with these documents, Orpheus put his flute in his pocket and started on his journey, via Chicago, which was then, as it now is, the shortest route. 4£ Walks About Chicago. His letter of introduction to Pluto secured him a warm and cordial reception. Pluto gave him a pass- port all through his dominions. He agreed that, if Orpheus should find his wife, he might take her out, on conditions. These conditions were, that she should follow her husband at a reasonable distance so as not to attract attention. Orpheus must not look back towards her; because, if he did, everybody would suspect what was taking place, and there would result a row. Pluto was averse to trouble. Since the Radicals were running things in the United States, they were getting ,sl pretty strong majority in this section; and they were liable to raise the d — euce at the slightest provocation. They were even talking, he observed, of impeaching him, and kicking him out, just because he had not given them all the brimstone contracts. Orpheus went in. It was rather a queer place. The first person he met asked him what in h — 11 he wanted? As he advanced farther and farther into the murky recesses, he was solicited with strange cries. " Mister, heouw will you swop jackknives?" " Here's your Advance, only three cents!" " Here's yer only regilar copy of Hatfield's speech on the assassination!" And thus saluted by the infernal clamor, blinded by the smoke, and half -suffocated by the sulphurous fumes, Orpheus penetrated the recesses of the Tar- tarean regions in search of his beloved Eurydice. Strange sights met his eyes; and a clamor like that of Babel stunned his ears. At every step he was solicited to participate in some scheme — to share in some enterprise. Now he was asked to enter a partnership for the manufac- Orpheus in Hades. 43 ture and sale of wooden nutmegs. Again, he was invited by former members of the Chicago Board of Trade to embark in " going long " on sulphur. "Yer see," said one of the latter, "if the Bads carry the fall elections, there will be a rise in brim- stone, sure." But the bereaved Orpheus passed on, heedless of the voices, and always bending everywhere his mel- ancholy glances in search of his beloved Eurydice. At length he reached the female department. It was in the nethermost depths of the dominions of the Plutonian monarch. Here he saw a singular spectacle. There were long streets, upon which were located gorgeous bazars. The spirits of women wandered in and out incessantly, pricing goods, and buying every thing that they desired. The torture consisted in the fact that each woman had to pay her own bills. In a distant corner of a large shop he saw his own Eurydice pricing some gorgeous silks. Her large blue eyes were filled with tender melancholy ; her soul was pervaded by a nameless terror. What thus terrified her was the anticipation that she alone must pay for the mountains of stuff which she was selecting. Placing his flute to his lips, he commenced play- ing " I'll follow thee." As if caught by some invisi- ble but powerful chain, Eurydice dropped a superb watered silk and commenced to follow him who ad- vanced before her playing upon his flute. It was in vain that salesmen along the route offered her the most magnificent stuffs at reduced prices. Curiosity, the strongest motive in the hu- man breast, impelled her forward. She wished to 44 Walks About Chicago. know who it was that preceded her — him of the ele- gant carriage, the melancholy step, and the flute that gave utterance to plaintive murmurings. She never supposed that it was her own beloved Orpheus ; but imagined that 'it was a young man, with a heavenly moustache, who had once given her a seat on a street-car. Meanwhile, Orpheus proceeded on towards the mouth of the infernal pit. His eyes, directed in front of him, were fixed upon the far future. He saw a beautiful cottage scene, in which Eurydice and himself were the centre pieces, and around which revolved and gamboled fair-haired, innocent children. Through the murky gloom there penetrated a ray of light. It was of the outer world. Before him he saw dimly the yawning gates of the sulphurous re- gions. A burst of light poured through them, like the rays of the sun between two black clouds. Al- ready he felt himself free, and by his side, Eurydice. Meanwhile his flute kept on: "Whistle and I'll come to you my lad," " Old Dog Tray," and " Home, Sweet Home." Suddenly there rang above the clamor of voices, and the roar of fires, a shriek. Orpheus recognized the sweet tones of his Eurydice. Forgetful of his promise not to turn his head, he looked back. He had just time to see a Chicago lawyer offering to procure a divorce for Eurydice in thirty days, without publicity, when He suddenly found himself impelled by some tre- mendous power through the open gates, which closed behind him with a fierce metallic clang. He was flung through space like a cannon-ball. Orpheus in Hades. 45 When he recovered his full consciousness, he was back in Thrace, a lonely widower. And this is the story of Orpheus. It is a sad and instructive recital. Let married men then study and profit by its lessons. Its moral is this: If your wife gets snake-bitten and goes to the Plutonian domain don't follow her. HOW TO QUIT SMOKING. tf. HERE is a very particular friend of mine who lives on The Avenue. It does not make jgpP^ any difference which avenue. Inquiry in ^ this direction might prove damaging. I may add that, last summer, in an extended trip of several months, and over half the con- tinent, I met everywhere people from Chicago. I made the acquaintance of several hundred of them, and found that every one of them lived " on The Avenue." If anybody ever met anybody from Chi- cago that did not live " on The Avenue," then some one has a different experience from what I have. Moreover, I never met anybody any where who knew anybody in Chicago, without it happening that the Chicago acquaintance lived " on The Avenue." People whom one meets on the cars, in steamers, on horseback, or on foot, in- any part of the globe, who are coming on a visit to Chicago, are invariably going to see somebody who lives " on The Avenue." The Avenue of Chicago is enormously extensive, and the number of people in Chicago who are on it, is marvelous. My friend who lives on the Avenue — it is neither Blue Island nor Milwaukee Avenue — sent for me last Monday night. He is a commission merchant on Water Street, like almost every body else in Chi- cago. He is a man of family — his own— and is aged about forty years. Hoiv to Quit Smoking. 4< His note asking me to come up was in haste, and was very unlike the usual clear, business-like chirog- raphy of my friend. The letters were stranded here and there along the lines, as though they were a large washing hung out to dry, and were agitated by a high' wind. I went up at once. Mrs. Brown admitted me, and bore a solemnity upon her face like unto that of a funeral. In response to my inquiries she groaned portentously, and said nothing. She led me to Brown's room opened the door and then went away. I was horrified at what met my vision. My hith- erto staid and respected friend sat in an arm-chair, in his shirt-sleeves, with his feet in a bucket of hot water. One of his eyes was severely in mourning, and shut tight. His nose had grown bulbous, like a prize pear, and was of a mixed color, in which patches of fiery red and deep purple alternated. One of his ears had a patch over it; and several black- ancl-blue places revealed themselves on his bald, and once shiny, and benevolent pate. His right arm was done up in bandages, and car- ried in a sling. His lips were swollen out enor- mously, and in a way that brought his mouth half way around to his left ear. A long strip of court- plaster extended across his cheek. "For God's sake, Brown, what's the matter?" I exclaimed, as I took in the fearful appearance of one whom I knew to be high up in a lodge of Good Templars that meets at the Washingtonian Home. " Matter ! " replied the bruised spectacle, in a voice that seemed to percolate through tortuous 48 Walks About Chicago. labyrinths — " matter ! you're the matter ! That d — d Sunday Bullpen is what's the matter !" "The Sunday Bullpen! What! That Christianly and poetic production the cause of such devastation and ruin as this? No, sir ! Never ! Never !" "Yes, The Sunday Bullpen, I tell you ! " " But — impossible ! " " Impossible, be d — d ! You just listen now, and I'll tell you ! " I seated myself, and thereupon Brown proceeded to unfold the following astonishing tale : "You know I'm a great smoker. We fellows who supported Grant rather pride ourselves on imi- tating that marvelous leader. So, in trying to imi- tate that great man, I got into the habit of smoking about twenty-five cigars a day. " Mrs. Brown, of course, didn't like it. She turned up her nose whenever I pulled out a cigar. Some- times it made her sick, and then it made her faint. But I noticed one thing, my boy, and that was, that when Jinks or Jobbers came in with a cigar, she always said she was so fond of cigars. " Well, the old woman got sick, and faint, and sniffed around the curtains, and said 'faugh !' every time she came near me; and I made up my mind it was no use. You can always do the same. When a woman gets after you, you may just as well come down. She'll fetch you in time, see if she don't. A woman will just out worry the devil, when she gets started after any thing. "Last Sunday morning one of the boys read The Sunday Bullpen— dern the infernal sheet ! Among other things, he read an article on tobacco, by some M. D. of the name of Johnson, or Jackson. Here's the paper. You look along towards the last of that How to Quit Smoking. 49 tobacco article, and read what he says about an antidote to smoking." Looking through the article in question, I found and read the following: "I would suggest, however, to those desiring to break the habit, the following prescription: Take, in the morning, about three drachms of whisky, and smoke none; in the afternoon repeat the dose; continue this three weeks: and if the habit of smoking be not broken, I have missed my mark. You will, prob- ably, always like the flavor of a good cigar; but, with some firm- ness, you can easily overcome the desire. The tobacco being withdrawn, the whisky substitutes itself and dissipates the desire to smoke." "Yes, that's it," said Brown. "The old woman had been worryin' me, and I made up my mind I might as well quit. The remedy didn't seem a bad one to take. By and by I slipped out, went round to a corner saloon, and took the prescription of three drams, at intervals of about ten minutes. " The thing worked beautiful. I didn't want to smoke, but I did want another dram, and I took an- other. This made me kind o' thirsty, and so I took one more. By this time I felt very sorry for some seedy chaps sittin' around the stove, and I invited 'em all to take a drink. I afterwards took a drink, at my expense, with the bar-keeper, who seemed a mighty nice sort of a man. " I don't remember very clearly what happened after this. I think I proposed to a chap with a big moustache to go and take a buggy-ride up The Ave- nue. I think somebody got a buggy, and we got in, after taking another dram to keep me from wanting to smoke in public. 1 'They say that I acted like one wild on The Avenue. Every body was going to church, it seems, and I 50 Walks About Chicago. must have played the very thunder ! All I remem- ber about it is, that last night, about seven o'clock, I waked up and found myself in the sawdust in the armory. My hat was gone ; my coat was torn in two, up the back ; my shirt-front ripped into ribr bons ; both pockets turned inside out ; my money gone ; and myself the bruised and broken reed which you see before you. " I won't stop to tell you of my frightful horror during the night. This morning I was thrust into a hole called a ' bull-pen,' with about seventy-five of the worst looking he and she loafers in Chicago. I spare you my agony upon being called out in full view of the justice, police, reporters, and public. I was accused of disorderly conduct. Seven police- men swore that they had chased me for over three hours. They said I drove over four children, and dogs without number ; that I lost my hat, and went bare- headed, giving an Indian war-whoop every fifteen seconds ; that several runaways occurred in conse- quence of my furious driving and yelling ; and that, when finally caught, I fought and kicked so that they had to club me severely before I would submit and go to the lock-up. "I was fined $100, and was called a hardened rep- robate by the corpulent old hypocrite who tried me. I gave him a check for the amount, which a policeman went out with, and when he came back, I was released. " You see, all this happened on account of that in- fernal Sunday Bullpen. I want you to go to the office and stop the cursed thing. If I ever can find that fellow Johnson, or Jackson, I'll mellow his counten- ance just as sure as my name's Timothy Brown — How to Quit Smoking. 51 see if I don't ! Dern his everlasting skin, teeth, eyes, and toe-nails !" "What did Mrs. Brown say when you returned?" asked I, as Brown concluded his lugubrious narra- tion with a ponderous sigh. "What did she say? Ker-r-i-s-t ! Wh-e-e-w !" And this was all I could get out of Brown as to what was said by his martyred helpmeet. I comforted poor old Brown as well as I could ; but I did not tell him that there was a very material difference between "three drachms" and "three drams" of whisky. Some other time I shall tell him ; and, meanwhile, I invoke the prayers of all kindly souls in his behalf, and to shield him from the righteous indignation of that deeply injured and austere matron Mrs. Timothy Brown. MILL ON THE PRAIRIE. MAN who was around town much during a certain week, must have noticed that, ^ during the fore part of the week, there was a SJlf' good deal of talk about Duffy and Bussy; and during the latter part of the week, a good deal of talk about Bussy and Duffy. Bussy and Duffy are nob names remarkable for resonance, symmetry, or style. They are not the kind that usually go down to posterity. They go down the stream of time, it is true, but they will go down, as some ships go down — that is, to the bottom. During the fore part of the week, Duffy was a great man. There were odds in favor of the popular notion that Mr. Duffy was a greater man than Mr. Bussy. These odds took a tangible form — some- what like $100 to $75. That is, stamps had it that Duffy was the heavier sockdollager of the two sock- dollagers. It was observable that, after Wednesday, the weathercocks of public opinion, which had hitherto all set persistently Duffy wards, all pointed rigidly Bussy- wards, as if they had never pointed otherwise in all their lives. How the currents of general esti- Mill on the Prairie. 53 mation all thus reversed their direction, and set the vanes to pointing contrariwise, is a matter worthy of description — of speculation — of research. II. On a certain Wednesday morning of that notable week — week ever notable as the Bussy-Duff y week — many people came out of the mist and centred about the grounds where a certain railroad has not yet erected large and surpassing passenger and ticket buildings. Variety was observable among this crowd. Many looked as if fresh from the arms of sleep. A diffused redness of eyes bore witness to vigils, and mayhap of undue stimulant. There was a noticeable prevalence of breadth of chest. There was likewise a fashionable style of countenance, in the which there were evidences of knuckle inunda- tions that had carried away nose-bridges. Under- jaw was there "in force. There was likewise much large mouth, somewhat of an open carpet-sack order. One who looked over this crowd, that had trickled from out the surrounding mist, could not but reflect upon the vast amount of indignant, and deceived, and outraged wifehood, that existed here and there all over Chicago. What remonstrances must have poured from wifely lips when masculine married- ness timidly asserted its intention of going to the prize-fight! What suspicions must have grown in virtuous bosoms when pater familias arose at the unseasonable hour of six A. M., and asserted that urgent business required an early advent into town! One prominent atom of social respectability told his astounded partner that he was obliged to go out 54 Walks About Chicago. on an early train to " inspect a mill." Oh, woman! even the question of Bussy versus Duffy could not be discussed without exposing you to man's deceit and machinations. Large professional and otherwise respectability had assembled in the crowd, and with its high noses and soft, slender hands, toned down the tendency to flatness in snouts, and to bony hugeness in -fists, of the dominant majority, One moving among the crowd, and familiar with the faces of noted charac- ters, could readily discover Brothers Moody and Farwell, Reverends Hatfield and Ryder, Judges Van Buren and Wilson, and many other prominent phi- lanthropists, clergymen and judges, as among the more noted of those who, from motives of delicacy or lack of time, had concluded not to be present. Nearly all the crowd, being in no particular hurry, determined to wait and ride out on the cars, in place of going a-foot. III. And it came to happen that, about high twelve or a little thereafter, some thousand or more people, on this particular Wednesday, formed themselves into a hollow square, which, by measurement with a tape-line, from a reporter with a note-book, in one corner, to a gentleman with a broken nose, in the next corner, was four and twenty feet. Dense to extreme were the living walls of this square. Look- ing from the centre outwards, there seemed four floors of human heads — floors which began some- where in an inextricable jumble of legs and boots, and rose gradually outward, like an inclined plane. Somewhat resembled these four walls the approach- ing sides of a hopper in a grist mill — hence, perhaps, Mill on the Prairie. 55 why the central operations of the former are called a " mill." So evenly rose these walls or floors of heads, and so dense were they, that, with but little caulking, they would have shed water like a roof. Close adjoining was a hay-stack. Sheltered under its lee was an object at which a small crowd stared curiously. It bore some resemblance to a man — a sick man. Eyes of a dull, milky color; countenance ashen; and bones of jaw and cheek seeming on the point of bursting through the skin. As if agueish or suffering, the figure lay with its knees drawn up to its chin, and hugged an old overcoat about its form, as if to accumulate a little warmth. A heavy fur cap was drawn over its head; and it rested limp and nerveless, chewing straws abstractedly, as if life were an unwelcome reality. Poor devil! A little later, and over the heads of the hollow square there comes a-wobbling what looks on its passage like a dead cat flung vigorously upward by the tail. It is an old fur cap, as is seen when it lights. An irregular commotion, cleaving its way through a corner of the hollow square, like a slightly submerged log being pushed up stream. Tremen- dous hi-hi's, and there is evacuated centreward the limping figure of the hay-stack. His head reveals hair close-cropped, coming down to a triangular point on his forehead, like a colossal saw-tooth. Ears immense, mouth an enormous gash. He sham- bles across to his corner in a gait which is a mixture of limp in both feet and a dog-trot. Mainly dog- trot, however; for his head bowing awkward ac- knowledgments to chorused hi-hi's, his slouched shoulders and thrust out arms make him resemble a dog essaying a trot on his hind legs. He seats him- self. It is the agueish invalid of the hay-stack. It 56 Walks About Chicago. is the then less renowned, but now the more re- nowned Bussy. More semblance of dead cat flopping into ring, more convolutions and wriggles in human wall, more hi-hi's, and the then more renowned, but now less renowned, Duffy. Not a beauty is Mr. Duffy, any more than his vis-a-vis, Mr. Bussy. But a dif- ference, nevertheless. Less slouch, less mouth, less ears. A long face, short upper lip, prominent nose, some front teeth somewhere lost on some former similarity, close-cropped hair, mild gray eyes, a skin with a dash of color in it, and a semi-anxious, semi-equable expression — such, Duffy. Adjoining to and hovering about Mr. Duffy, a Colossus, like an elephant reared to the perpendicu- lar, and clad fashionably. In the vast shoulders, bull-neck, little, cunning eyes, and small nose, one recognizes the giant bruiser, McCoole. Diagonally across, and doing the planetary about the invalid of the hay-stack, is a good looking, medium sized gen- tleman, in full suit of black, with plug hat and natty cane. His black hair is elaborately parted; his chest is round and full; his nose immense; his eyes small, black, and piercing; his countenance full, pleasant, and open. He looks like a foreman in a machine shop. It is Joe Coburn, who supposes himself the foremost mauler in existence. Some other lesser lights in parti-colored shirts, and the outlines of the picture are sufficiently complete. IV. They all feel sorry for poor Bussy. He looks like an old man in feeble health. He sits bent forward, with his clasped fingers holding his knees. Duffy Mill on the Prairie. 57 sits erect, calmly surveying the crowd, and curi- ously his opponent. Bussy looks furtively at Duffy and the crowd, like a penned dog reconnoitering for a hole through which, with dropped tail, he may escape imagined turpentine, tin kettles, and mal- treatment. There is a peeling of old coats. Then old pants follow suit. Then knitted vests, ragged undershirts, and multifarious underwear; and Bussy and Duffy stand in spiked shoes and tight-fitting drawers. Bussy still slouched, Duffy erect. Some body says, " Time." In a fraction of a sec- ond two figures, naked to the hips, confront each other in the centre of the four-cornered "ring," The agueish figure of the invalid of the hay-stack has suddenly become transformed. The slouch has left his shoulders. Well balanced on his legs, he stands with expanded chest, and head well thrown back. All over his arms and breast appear knobs of muscle. Poised like a statue, he seems to have suddenly become the impersonation of power. A smile just lifts his upper lip enough to disclose a row of white, even teeth. Into his dull, milky eyes there seems flowing a white, sinister light. Duffy, the favorite, stands easily. His body is round, his limbs slender. He seems more like a grayhound than a bulldog — built more for the chase than for conflict. With his longer arms and taller form, he seems to possess an advantage over his shorter opponent. Their eyes are fastened each upon the other. The naked arms work unceasingly, and the two bodies move about as if seeking some vulnerable approach. A moment later and two arms shoot forward like lightning; then a clinch, a fierce tugging and inter- 58 Walks About Chicago. twining, and the two forms go down together. Two men rush from each of two corners; two pick up and carry one-half of the struggling mass to one cor- ner, and two take the remainder to the other. Seated each upon the knee of his second, the panting con- testants gaze eagerly at each other. Two bright-red spots have suddenly flashed upon the ashen forehead of Bussy. Duffy sits unmarked and calmly compla- cent. The battle is opened. In thirty seconds it will be resumed. Thirty minutes have passed. Upon Duffy there are no marks save here and there upon his body red spots, which look as if blistered. Bussy's left eye is entirely closed. A dark, pulpy mass overhangs it like a cliff. Blood trickles from his cheek bones, his mouth, and neck. Despite this, Bussy is not hideous — not even repellant. As he faces his antagonist, his single eye blazes with a determination that transfigures him. He is no more a pummeled, unsightly bruiser, but a hero. Amidst the foam and blood on his swollen lips, there plays a smile, a reflex of endur- ance, which lightens and softens his whole face like a halo. Hereabouts lies the savage fascination of the scene. Curious as it may seem, there is just a touch of the sublime about that battered, swollen face, with its blazing eye, and lambent smile touching up the distorted and foam-colored lips. Absorbed in the antagonism of the contest, the spectators feel no pity for the tremendous punish- ment. It may even be believed that the men do not Mill on the Prairie. 59 feel it themselves at the moment. In the excite- ment, the fierce struggles, the alternating hopes and fears, pain is forgotten. "While there was a dash of the sublime, there was a touch of the pitiful. It was at the moment when, torn from each other's grasp and seated upon the knees of their seconds, each turned panting to see how the other stood the battle; and one could read the plainly expressed hope that the terrific struggle which had just ended had also finished the endur- ance of the other. Each time, before the veil of blood was wiped away from the eye of Bussy, he would interrogate the condition of his opponent for signs of exhaustion. And now many times during the hard struggle did Duffy scan with eager anxiety the opposite corner for some evidence that the con- test was about ended ! VI. All this is about a couple of unknown Celtic scala- wags, who, a month before, were nameless, and whom respectability, a fortnight after, had forgot- ten. And yet these two Celtic nobodies were for an hour transfigured into glowing heroes. To all of which the many very respectable gentlemen present — not the roughs, thieves, or bruisers — will bear willing or unwilling witness. P. S. — The writer wishes to add that an attempt to get up a chicken-match, out of the fowls of the above alluded to prize fight, was not a success. GOING TO THE MATINEE ffi hwA . TOOK a walk around, the other afternoon, to a matinee, at one of the popular places of amusement. It makes no particular differ- ence which one. Two matinees are a good deal like two peas. After you get in, you can't tell them apart. I went around early to get a seat. Found seve- ral hundred young women and several men, who had gone around early for the same reason. The en- trance was densely packed with a crowd whose tail extended out into the street. I reached there just at the same moment that did a sweet young girl with a very white-and-pink com- plexion, a " folio w-me-fellers " over her shoulder, and, on her lips, carnation. She gazed at the dense crowd before her, and then remarked to a gentleman with a dyed moustache, "Watch me go through there, will you, hoss?" The lovely creature . squared herself, lowered her head, advanced her elbows — and went in. I availed myself of the opportunity, and followed in her wake. It was delightful, especially the remarks we heard. One superb being proposed to mash the nose of my conductress. Another exquisite thing announced her intention to "go for " my leader. Another gen- tle angel wanted to know, with a good deal of as- perity, who the h — 11 she was crowding? Going to the Matinee. 61 As we progressed slowly ahead, all the women who were at the rear of the crowd fell in behind us, and pushed forward. The mass then presented the singular spectacle of a solid body, through whose centre there ran a current. So soon as the head of this current reached the door, the sides of the mass began to form currents towards the street. These two currents, meeting at the street, joined, and began to flow down the middle again, toward the door. Three times did I find myself at the door, and as often in the street. The currents were resistless; the jam was tremendous. By and by the door opened and we went in. Ther' was some tall running. The exhibition afforded of pedal extremities was like a picture in some modern flash publication. They were quite as numerous, and a good deal more of them were shown. Red flannel under-skirts are still worn, but very short. The agility and other things displayed by the ladies in getting over the backs of seats, and locat- ing themselves in the best places, were singularly wonderful. After awhile we got seats — that is, about half of us. The other half of us stood up. Among those who stood up were about thirty engaging gentlemen with dyed moustaches and modest faces. These gen- tlemen arranged themselves around the outer aisles in a position fronting the ladies. They appeared to be young men of great wealth. They had immense diamonds, and watch-chains of fabulous dimensions. Evidently they were, some of them, from the Lake Superior mining country, for I heard them talk about "coppering" something. Another of the aristocratic vouths was evidently a. 62 Walks About Chicago. theological student, for he said something about having had a " call." It was about an hour and a half before the play began. The interim was occupied by the ladies in a discussion of their own little affairs, and in criti- cisms upon each other. There was a tremendous clatter, in which one could hear nothing distinctly, unless addressed to him. I caught scraps of re- marks, to-wit: " Is them diamonds on " :( You bet they ain't. Where- " Where d'ye suppose she got her good clothes, if she " " Oh my! just look at that hat " " Painted', of course " "Lives on Fourth Avenue, with " " Jim thinks I'm out on the West side- " Went to the office and told John I was going out to " "Wouldn't have Mr. Johnson know I'm here for " " See that feller making signs to me with "'Keeps a faro-bank on Dearborn " "If you please, ma'am, just keep your elbow out " "The h— 11 you say " " Couldn't meet you last night, because my hus- band sus " 6 At eight o'clock to-morrow night, on the corner of State and " " My ! what singular ladies these Chicago " " Ain't it jolly? Our folks don't suspect " " Billy's gone back on " ' i Come around to-morrow evening. John is going to " Going to the Matinee. 63 And thus the concert went on, mingled with ten thousand allusions to dry goods, laces, poplin, illu- sion, and other things which were Greek or Chal- daic to unsophisticated person, who, like myself, had never served an apprenticeship in a dry -goods establishment. The aristocratic young men with dyed moustaches were particularly modest. No one of them whom I saw ever stared more than one woman out of coun- tenance at a time. Some of the women didn't stare out of countenance worth a cent. It was about an even thing when some of the latter and the youths with the dyed moustaches got to looking at each other. Whichever yielded first, usually did so with a modest wink at the other. -Asa whole I was very much impressed with the matinee. The ladies were remarkably beautiful. They were dressed in a manner gorgeous beyond all description. Their elbows were of a universal •sharpness, of which I have patterns of one hundred and eighteen different ones on my body. They were as modest in their conversation as in their dress. The bearing of many of them was as modest as their conversation. They were calculated to impress a beholder very highly. 4 The perfumery was elegant. I recognized twenty- seven different kinds of French extracts ; eleven varieties of old Bourbon \ ninety-four of Trix ; sixteen of onions ; besides a variety of others, such as cloves, sherry, cardamon, lager, tobacco, cheese ; and ex- clusive of seventeen other species whose character I could not recognize. The matinees are fine things. There should be more of them. They cultivate feminine muscle. They develop woman's love of the drama, her powers of 64 Walks About Chicago. observation, and numerous other qualities too num- erous to mention. I did not observe any husbands present with their wives. Nor did I notice any wives present with their husbands. In fine, the matinee is a res magna. There should be one every afternoon. It should be some time after noon. The longer the better. THE OLD MAN'S SMOKE, ETC. N a family up town there is an individual known among his more intimate friends as the "Old Man." The Old Man is "rising" of seven years old, and is a regular old patri- arch in the way of knowing things. The other day Madame, who is the Old Man's maternal relative, came down stairs. As Madame stepped into the room, the Old Man had just lighted a cigar, and was essaying his maiden smoke. He sat upon the sofa, with his legs crossed like an old veteran. His parental relative's broad-brimmed hat covered his head, and he held his cigar gracefully between his first and second fingers. Madame, being sensible, did not faint, or "go for" her slipper, but took a book and sat down to watch operations. The Old Man had watched for her appearance dubiously; but her unconcern reassured him, and he queried, after a vast puff of smoke, and with immense nonchalance, " What's your opinion of rats?" And the Old Man was happy. He discussed the weather with Madame as if he were an old gentle- man who had called in to chat over the affairs of the neighborhood. Madame replied indifferently, as if absorbed in her book, but all the while keeping the corner of an eye upon the veteran on the sofa. The Old Man progressed swimmingly. Pussy was called up, and disgusted with the phenomenon 66 Walks About Chicago. of an unexpected quart of smoke in her eyes and nostrils. "Bob," a female kitchen mechanic, was invited in by the Old Man to witness how he could "smoke through his nose." He hauled up a chair and raised his ten-inch legs clear to the top of the back, did this Old Man. And all the time he smoked with the coolness of a Turk. Life opened up roseately before the Old Man. A future revealed itself through the smoke, which was half cigar and half meerschaum. A cigar was to be smoked every morning after breakfast. A negotiation was effected with Madame wherewith to buy a cigar at recess. In the evening a pipe. A pipe which he was to color. A beautiful, white pipe, which was to be purchased by the sale of a ball, two colored buttons, and a kite-string. Never was there such a future or such a pipe. And in thus dreaming, and planning, and chatting, the Old Man smoked — now sending a current from his nostrils, now driving it out with a furious blast, and anon puffing it forth in detached cloudlets. The cigar was smoked to the very lip, and then the Old Man thought he would try a pipe. Taking down the meerschaum, he scraped it out scientific- ally with his jackknife, filled it, and resumed his seat on the sofa, and lifted his ten-inch legs to the chair-back. During all this time the Old Man's face was as serene, his smile as genial, and his talk as agreeable, as if earth were affording its highest enjoyments. It was an ancient pipe, with much nicotine lurk- ing in its tubular communications. Occasionally some of the nicotine invaded the Old Man's tongue, whereat he grimaced somewhat — nothing more. The Old Man's Smoke, Etc. 67 The meerschaum was half smoked out. Once or twice, in the course of absorbing converse, it went out, but was at once relighted with many a resonant puff. The pipe was half smoked, and then there came a single, pearly drop of perspiration creeping out from the Old Man's hair upon his forehead. A moment later another stole from some covert and stood upon his chin. About this moment something seemed suddenly to strike the Old Man. A cheer- ful remark was abruptly broken off in the centre, and the Old Man suddenly stopped as if to reflect upon something unexpected — somewhat as if he had just remembered that his note was over-due, or he had suddenly recollected that his two children had died five minutes before, or that he was to be hanged in three minutes, and had entirely overlooked the fact. He took down his legs from the chair, laid aside the broadbrim, and started to put up the pipe. "Why don't you finish your smoke?" inquired the Madame. " I — b'lieve— I've— smoked — 'nuff," replied the Old Man, as he walked with an uneven step to put up the pipe. When he came back, the drops of per- spiration upon the chin and forehead were rein- forced by hosts of others. A waxy whiteness had taken possession of the approaches to the Old Man's mouth. He stared vaguely, as if looking through a mist. Two minutes later, all there was of the veteran on the sofa was a limp figure, white as snow, with head bound in wet towels, and an attendant with a slop dish. A little later, and the Old Man lay white and still, with fixed eyes, and a scarcely perceptible breathing. It was hours before the Old Man left 68 Walks About Chicvgo. his bed, and when he did, he moved about as do all very old men who find the weight of years a bur- den. The Old Man has not yet traded his ball, buttons and kite-string for a meerschaum. ^s^ WALKS ABOUT CHICAGO-1881 $- > .C=3£d< < » So A WALK WITH A STRANGER. T was one of those charming days of sum- mer which prevails in the metropolis of Great Britain. The smoke from a million chimneys came out upon the air, and, then, intoxicated with the balmy environment, sank languidly into the arms of the white fog that had risen during the night like a white-robed Venus from the sea. There was falling a gentle rain. It was an English summer rain; fierce in its rush, cold as an iceberg, persevering and penetrating. It rained down on an umbrella and up into it; it was in the faces of the pedestrians whichever way they moved; it rained from the interior of the busses outward; and left no opening unsearched. There came from out the rain into my office the dripping figure of a man. He was tall, thin, some- what stoop-shouldered, and dripping from his ragged attire as if he had just been hoisted from a horse-pond. His hat was slouch in style, venerable as to age, worn, much battered, and running off water like a roof. His hair was long and grizzled; he had a heavy moustache of the same hue, a goat- beard of great length; and on his cheeks a stubly growth of hair, so stiff that it looked as if he had piled his face preparatory to some building opera- tions. 72 Walks About Chicago. " You are from the States? " he asked. "Yes, I have the honor to hail from that locality. How much do you want? " I recognized him at once as one of the several thousand Americans in London who are adrift in the world; and who are always in search of funds to return to the neighborhood of the setting sun. "Whatever you please. I have been stopping down at the country place of the Duke of Cork, and I came up here expecting to find a remittance at my bankers, but it was not there. Something's gone wrong, sure. My agent advised me that he had just concluded a sale at $2,000 a front foot for 500 lots in Chicago." " Oh, you are from Chicago, then? " " Yes, sir, I'm from Chicago. Do you know Chi- cago." I answered cautiously that I was a little acquaint- ed with that city, having once been through it some years ago. Every one of these American wanderers has a local habitation, which is usually one unknown in detail to the person of whom he solicits assist- ance. Thus I cunningly veiled my knowledge of the Garden City. It was not a busy moment with me just then. Bismarck was quiet. There were no war-clouds on the horizon of the czar. Dillon was in jail, and Parnell, for the instant, was not shak- ing his shillelah under the nose of the British lion. Having a little leisure, I determined to spend it in unmasking this pretender. " So you are from Chicago? " I continued. " Do you know the place pretty well? " " Know her! Mebbe I don't know Chicago! Why I know that ere town as well as if I had been her rather!" A Walk with a Stranger. 73 " How long since you were there?" " It's a matter of a dozen years or so since I left. I was in command of a gunboat along with Farra- gut and " "Yes I know. All Americans like yourself who are hard up, left the States in command of a gun- boat or something of the sort ; but that doesn't mat- ter just now." "It's a fact stranger." " All right ; I know it's a fact. But that is of no account. Sit down over that tin boiler so you can drip off without creating a flood on the floor. Now tell me something about that wonderful city?" " I lived a leetle out of town on the perrary, near a tavern called the ' Bull's Head.' You know where that is, don't you?" "Can't say that I do." "Don't know the < Bull's Head' tavern! Why that's one of the fust taverns in Chicago !" " Never heard of it. I know the Palmer House and the Grand Pacific." " The which?" I repeated the names of these establishments. " You've got me there, stranger ! I never heard of them." " Are you sure you have ever been in Chicago?" "'Sure?' You becher your life ! I was born there, and I know every inch of her !" " All right, then. Tell me something more of the town." " I know the city like a knife. And besides that, everybody there knows me. I was ticket collector for Wood's Museum. You know Wood's Museum, don't you?" "Can't say that I do." ?4 Walks About Chicago. "Don't know Wood's Museum !" he said in a tone of indignant astonishment. "No sir, I don't positively." "Of course you don't know Crosby's Opera house !" "No sir." " Nor the court-house with the jail under it !" "No sir." " Nor Arlington's ministrels !" " No sir." " Nor Jim Robinson's circus !" "No sir." " Nor the two big skating rinks !" "No sir." " Nor the velocipede schools !" " No sir." " Nor the big church opposite the court-house !" " Not much !" And thus he continued for half an hour naming places and men without limit. He was unmistakably a fraud of the first water. I let him run on as he spoke of a millionaire named Honore who owned thousands of acres close to the city limits, of some- body named Walker who was wealthier even than Honore ; of vast lines of horse-car stables that stood opposite the supposititious ' Bull's Head' tavern ; and of a thousand other things, equally astonishing and apochryphal. I was amused with his audacity, his invention, his evident belief that I was a ninny who could be taken in by his professions in regard to a city of which he evidently knew not even a brick or the color of its mud. "One thing you must know," he said at length, " and that is the beautiful, smooth, noiseless wooden A Walk with a Stranger. 75 pavements which have been laid down in the city, and which are the very best thing " This was too much. This brazen lie was more than I could stand. I arose, opened the door, and said: " There! that will do! Now you get out! You are the biggest liar I ever met in all my travels. Get right out; if you open your mouth ever so little I will hand you over to that policeman. Git!" He gazed at me with a furious look in his glaring eyes; but the sight of the policeman was too much for him, and he departed without a word. I relate this incident for the benefit of those of my countrymen who may be abroad, and who may — as they will almost certainly — be exposed to the solicitations of pertinacious mendicants claiming to be Americans in need. It is not often that the American visitor is in a situation, as I was, to ex- pose the character of these people. Being a resi- dent of Chicago, and knowing the city as thoroughly as the farm on which I first saw the light, I was able to convict this pretended resident of Chicago of being a fraud without the smallest difficulty. But my position was a^peculiar one, for the reason that these beggars, in approaching an American visitor, as a rule, take the pains to post themselves in advance as to the residence of those whom they propose to victimize, so that they are prepared to locate their pretended residence in some other lo- cality. * We used to have great old times in this London office. Occasionally an Englishman would drop in *For the benefit of those not familiar with Chicago, or its early history, it may he stated that all the places, persons and things mentioned by jthe caller were noted in the„Chicago of a dozen or fifteen years ago. 76 Walks About Chicago. to get some information on American affairs; and if there were any of the Chicago gang around he was sure to get all the information he could carry away — and generally a good deal more. One day there happened to call in a staid old chap who was in business in the city, and who had never been out of London, or at least had never been so far away but that he could get home to sleep the same night. There was also in the office at the same moment a young and robust liar connected with the Board of Trade, in Chicago, and who had run in to see a Chicago paper, and get the latest news in re- gard to the latest " corner." Two women called in one day and asked me if I could tell them the whereabouts of the husband of one of them who had eloped to America with some other woman. He had changed his name, but to what she did not know. She expected that I would be able to recognize him from the description she gave of his personal appearance. " Would you kindly tell me," said the English caller, " if you ever knew in the States a man named Johnson?" " What sort of a looking man was he?" broke in Young Chicago. " I cawn't say 'ow he would look at the present time. I 'aven't seen 'im for twenty years. He was my brother, and he went away to the States, and we 'aven't 'eard from 'im since." " Seems to me I knew a man named Johnson in Chicago," said Young Chicago, in a in* sing sort of a way. " Was he an Englishman?" " Yes," answered the ether, in an interested tone. " What was his first name?" " Tummas." A Walk with a Stranger. 77 " Tummas? Tummas? I'm not exactly sure, but it seems to me that the Johnson I knew had that sort of a handle to his name." "I beg pardon!" " I say that I think that the first name of the Johnson I knew is Tummas. Do you think he had a strawberry mark on his right arm ?" " I beg pardon!" " I mean did he have any mark that you would know him by?" " I fancy not." And thus the conversation went on for a time, until finally the Englishman said: Do you live in Chicago?" pronouncing the "a" in the name of the place so as to correspond with the sound of "a" in at. " Yes, sir; you bet your boots!" " I beg pardon!" " Yes, sir, I live in Chicago every time — that is to say, I live in that wonderful city." "And where is Chicago? Is it near New York?" " Yes, it is near New York; that is to say, too near for the comfort of New York." " I beg pardon!" " What I mean is, that Chicago, although a thou- sand miles from New York, is still so near that city that the trade of New York is gradually dropping off, its streets are becoming pasturage for stray cows and pigs, and the most of its once happy resi- dents have become paupers. Why, they take up a collection every Sabbath in the churches of our city for the poor of New York, those who have been made paupers owing to the rivalry of Chicago." "Now, really!" 78 Walks About Chicago. " Fact, sir. Oh, Chicago is a buster, I tell you ! " "I beg pardon!" " Chicago is the greatest city in this world, or any other one; that is what I'm trying to tell you. Why, did you never hear of Chicago? " "Well, now really, I cawn't say that I'ave. And 'ow large is it?" "How large? That's something nobody knows. It grows so fast that they can't take any census. Four years ago they commenced to take the census. They appointed four thousand men who had orders to commence at the centre of the city and work out- wards towards the suburbs in every direction. They all went to work, but the city has grown so fast that they have never been able to catch up with the outskirts." " God bless me ! How extraordinary ! " "Yes, sir! Most of them are now so far from home that they send in their returns by mail; sev- eral have died, and not one of them has seen his family for over two years. And then the rate at which new buildings grow up is something astonish- ing ! You have heard of the great fire, haven't you?" " The great fire in London, do you mean? " "No: the great fire in Chicago." "Keally, I cawn't say I 'ave." "Well, sir, there was a fire there a few years ago, and in one night it burned up every blessed building in the city, and the wind blew all the ashes away, so that when you looked over the ground the next morning, you couldn't see anything but holes in the ground where there had once been cellars. A good many took these holes and inverted them, and used A Walk with a Stranger, 79 them for shops for business till they could get lum- ber to build something else." "Dear me! Really? And how did the people live?" "Well, sir, that is something quite providential. There is a big lake close to the city, and the fire was so tremendous hot that it converted the lake into boiling water, which cooked all the fish, so that for the next two months the people subsisted on boiled trout and catfish." ' * Really ? How very extraordinary ! " " You can bet your pile on that ! " "I beg pardon!" " I mean that such is the fact. Well, sir, it was a sight to see that city built up! There wasn't room for all that wanted to build at the same time, so that a good many built their basements, excavations and all, out of town, on the prairie, and then moved them into their places in town on rollers." "Ow! Really?" "Yes! Everything was favorable to building operations that winter. The water in the lake kept at the boiling point for two or three months, and the masons used the hot water to mix the mortar with. People utilized everything. Before the fire the number of rats in Chicago was simply incredible, and they had holes which ran under and through the streets in every possible direction. The thor- oughfares of the city were so crowded that it was impossible to haul water for building operations. Now, what do you think was done? They just drew out these rat-holes, screwed them together, and used them as pipes for bringing water from the lake to the various points where it was needed." 80 Walks About Chicago. The Englishman endeavored to say something, but the words froze in his throat. "Ina couple of months," continued the board-of- trade man, " all the burned city was rebuilt. You never saw anything like it, nor any other man. Everything was of the finest marble, with mansard roofs, iron dogs on the front steps, and Steinway grands in the parlors. All this was done before the people had got the smell of the fire out of their clothes." The Englishman still said nothing, but sat with bulging eyes and stared at the speaker. " A curious thing about Chicago," said the veraci- ous narrator, " is the way in which we have raised the grade of the city. When the aborigenes, some fifteen years ago, occupied the site of Chicago, it was considerably below the level of the lake. This sort of thing wouldn't do you know, because we must have drainage. Well, sir, they didn't have the least bit of trouble. They saw that the wagons from the country were constantly bringing in mud, and thus slowly raising the height of theastreets. They have depended on that ever since. The streets are never cleaned; and the consequence is that all the time the site of the city has been growing higher, and the surrounding country lower, until now, when it is the fact that Chicago stands on a hill some sixty feet above the lake. We now have a natural drainage in every direction, so that city is one of the best-drained, and the very cleanest city in the world." " The listener was still stolid and silent with his eyes glued on the other. "It's a great city, you can bet your boots! Why, I've gone down town by a vacant lot, on some A Walk with a Stranger. 81 street, in the morning, and when I went back at night by the same route, there would be a marble- front on the lot, and there would be lights in the parlor, and people dancing to music as if they had lived there half a century. We've got a fire depart- ment which is so perfect that by means of electri- city, an engine always gets notice of a fire some ten minutes before it breaks out, and is thus able to get on the ground, hitch to a plug, and have a couple of axmen on the roof by the time the thing com- mences! They have an ingenious way of keeping a member of the fire department clean. There is a pole down which they slide when they are called from their beds for a fire. This pole is lubricated with the very finest French toilette soap, which is taken off on the hands and faces of the men as they descend. When they get to the fire, they are washed off by the hose, and in this way, they are receiving constant and thorough ablutions. Over there, the hotels are so large that guests who live in one wing when they are in a hurry to communi- cate with some one in another wing, always gain time by sending their matter through the mails. In every house, there is a small electrical apparatus which communicates with everywhere. By touch- ing the different buttons, you can order a horse and buggy from the stable, a mustard plaster from the druggist, a prescription from the doctor, a clean shave, a bath and a shampoo from the barber." Here there was a deep groan from the English- man, and then he fell heavily to the floor. The board-of -trade man loosened his necktie, and then went off to hunt up the coroner. I have not seen him since; and thus was obliged to bury the Englishman at my own expense. 82 Walks About Chicago. It is just twenty-five years hence ; that is to say, it is the year 1906. There have been some changes in the map of the world since the date when Gar- field was assassinated, and Ireland was in the throes of land revolution. Since that time, the land question has been settled in Ireland by the removal en masse to the United States, and the location of the greater portion of the inhabitants in the city of Chicago. Germany, too, has undergone a change. The Brandenburg dynasty is still on the throne ; and the grandson of Bismarck has just been appointed to a high position in the diplomatic service after having run off with the wife of the secretary of the interior. But Germany is but sparsely settled, the majority of its people having emigrated to the United States, and settled in Chicago. Chicago has sustained many very important changes. It is, as it was a quarter of a century ago, divided into three main parts ; or rather into two parts and a fraction. One of the main parts is oc- cupied by the Irish element, the other by the Ger- mans, while in the fractional portion are to be found a few of the original American contingent. The Germans occupy all the North side out to, and be- yond what was formerly known as Evanston. They have also extended west and south till they now fill up the region north of what was once known as Madison street. South of what was known as. Madison street lies the Irish section. The former residents of the " Green Isle" and their descendants occupy all the country to the west and south. The native elements hold the narrow strip between the lake and the South branch — such was its ancient name — an d after ieav- ing the river at about what used to be Twenty-sec- A Walk with a Stranger. 83 ond street, the west line dividing the Irish and the Americans is along the old ground once occupied by the Chicago and Rock Island railway. That portion of the city occupied by the Germans is now known as Teutonia ; that which is held by the Irish is called Hibernia ; and that small section pertaining to the American residents is designated as the "First Ward." What was Madison street has been widened into a boulevard of great width, and, as said, forms the dividing line between Teutonia and Hibernia. On either side of this boulevard for a distance of one thousand feet there are no houses. The vacant space on the north side is planted, in season, with cabbages; that on the south side with potatoes. In the centre of this boulevard, and running its entire length, is a wall of solid masonry sixty feet in height for the purpose of preventing excursions from one side, or country, into the other. The form of the municipal government is now es- sentially changed. It provides that there shall be always two mayors and the one twenty-fifth of a third one ; and that one of the whole mayors shall be from Teutonia, and the other whole one from Hiber- nia ; and the fractional one from First Ward. The character of the common council is also very materi- ally altered. There are two bodies and a fractional one corresponding to the mayoral formation and who legislate for the entire city. A provision in the new Constitution parcels out all the municipal offices between Hibernia and Teu- tonia, it being arranged so that each side shall have two-thirds of all the offices. To meet the demands of a situation in which there are four thirds, the bodies are allowed to create new offices ad libitum. 84 Walks About Chicago. It has also been decided that there shall be an equitable division of the work of serving the coun- try. Under this system, a citizen who gives his time to his country as an official, is exempted from the payment of all taxes. As a result, First Ward, having no officials, has to pay for the support of the municipal government. For the purposes of gov- ernment, the city is divided into two parts, to-wit, official and taxable. Hibernia and Teutonia consti- tute the former, First Ward the latter. The old form of public schools has been aban- doned, except in First Ward. In Teutonia, there are only gymnasiums and Kindergarten schools. In Hibernia there are only parochial establishments for the education of children, and grand colleges under religious supervision, and which are supported by public taxation — in First Ward. There are twelve hundred cathedrals in Hibernia, and not a single, church of any kind in Teutonia. All the Jews have been run out of Teutonia, and all the landlords out of Hibernia. Every occupant of a house in Hibernia has it not only rent free, but he receives a bonus for living in it. Those who own property have formed a league for the purpose of getting a reduction in the amount of the bonus which they have to pay the occupants of their houses. They have some representatives in the legislative body who are known as " obstruct- ives." Many of them are in prison, and there is a determination on the part of the government of Hi- bernia to put them down at any cost. The chief industry among the Hibernians is in the management of distilleries; that of the Teutonians ? the manipulation of breweries. A Walk with a Stranger 85 North of the wall the German language only is taught in all educational establishments; south of it, the single language taught and spoken is the Celtic. In First Ward, German and Celtic are taught in the public schools — such being the law; English may be used, but not in any of the official transaction. All public documents are filed in du- plicate, one in German and one in Celtic. There are two newspapers outside of the First Ward; one is The Green Banner, which is devoted to the sup- port of the platform of more offices for the Hiber- nians, and the other, The Yellow Standard, which supports the platform of more offices for the Teu- tonians. There are several newspapers in First Ward devoted to the proposition that taxation for municipal purposes should not exceed one-half the current earnings of each taxpayer, and that a mu- nicipal debt should not be in excess of five hundred per cent of the actual value of all the real and per- sonal property subject to taxation. First Ward contains the main business portion of the city, and constitutes, as already said, the tax- able department of the municipality. Every resi- dent of this part is taxed on what business he does do; and rather more on what he doesn't do. When a street needs paving, or repaving, in Teutonia or Hibernia, an estimate is made of the cost, and then the amount is assessed against the street frontage of First Ward. Everything is subject to taxation in this portion of the city. A building is taxed so much for its height, so much for its depth and breadth, so much for the distance it goes into the ground, and so much for the distance it sticks out. There is an extra assessment if a building is above a certain size, and something extra if it falls below. 86 Walks About Chicago. There is a tax on some dogs, and one on no dogs. A man with a large family pays a certain amount; and a man without any family is assessed according to the size of the family which the assessor thinks he should have. A man pays a tax on his property; then he mortgages it to raise money to pay his taxes, and then he is assessed on the original value of his property, and likewise on the amount of the mortgage. Assessments for taxation are made by two assess- ors, one from Hibernia, and one from Teutonia. The highest assessment is the one which is adopted. In order to stimulate the assessors, it is enacted that the one who makes the lowest assessment gets no pay for his labor, while the one who makes the highest returns receives a bonus of ten per cent, on the valuation which he brings in, and which is added to the tax and collected by the same process. Every resident of First Ward, and being tainted with a descent from a family which has lived in the United States more than thirty years, is, together with his descendants, forever debarred from hold- ing any office to which there is attached any profit or emolument. If he have an ancestry of less, than thirty years' residence in the country, and cannot speak English well, and is perfect in German, or Celtic, then, if he reside in First Ward, he is al- lowed a rebate of one per cent, in his assessments both on taxable property and for campaign pur- poses. It would be of great interest to go more into de- tails as to the Chicago of 1906, or twenty-five years hence. Enough has been said to give people an idea of the growth of our great city, and to what a A Walk with a Stranger. 87 glorious future it will reach within this very limited period. I met an old settler the other night, in a beer sa- loon, on the West side. The veteran was vis a vis with a glass of lager. There was an expression of ennui in his face. He seemed as he were wearied, digusted about something ; and had not quite made up his mind what to do about it. "Hello, Brown, old boy. What is the matter with you? You look as if you had a fit of the dumps, and didn't care if the world does come to an end on the fifteenth proximo." He looked at me with a sort of a faded, lack-lus- tre expression that was painful. I had known him for years as one of the very liveliest of the old boys within the city limits ; one who was on hand on all occasions irrespective of the hour of the day or night, whether in midsummer or midwinter, regard- less of whether the thermometer was ambitiously climbing among the hundreds or skulking down be- low the nothings. Besides all that, he is well fixed ; he has a fine stone-front on the South side ; he had a large and accomplished family, and is reputed to have a bank account of no mean dimen- sions. What could be the matter with a man hav- ing all these attachments, a good constitution, and a head which no amount of all-night business could swell beyond its natural dimensions ? "Well, that's just what's the matter," said the old boy as he languidly motioned me to take a seat by the table. " Here, you ! twzei lager ! The fact of it is that I am sick. I'm going to emigrate !" "' Going to emigrate?' What in the name of blazes do you mean by that ?" 88 Walks About Chicago. "Just what I say. I'm going to pull out o' this town just as sure as my name is Brown, and that mighty soon, too, I tell you that !" " Well, now go ahead and unload. Something is up when you begin to talk in that sort of style. Let us have it. What is it ?" "Well, then, the fact is that I'm tired of Chicago." "What! you tired of Chicago! You, the man that has been here since the Pottowatomies vacated, who are one of the foundations of the city, who has done more to build it up than half the rest of the people here, who has got plenty of money and all that sort of thing ! What, you of all the others?" "Yes sir, it's me that's talking in that strain. The fact is Chicago isn't any more any place for me." " What do you mean?" " Well, as a matter of fact, the town has out- grown me ; it's gone so fast that I haven't been able to keep up with it. I'm just as much out of place here as a lobster in boiling water." " Well, now old horse, consider that this is a hall, and that you have hired it, are behind the desk, and that you have the floor all to yourself. Let us hear from you." " What I complain of, is that it isn't the old town. It used to be a place where you. could have some rational amusement. Now what can you do? Noth- ing ! Don't you remember when we used to get the boys together and start out with a couple of good rat dogs, and then take the town from midnight till sunrise, takin' a drink every time the dogs caught a rat? Of course you remember." " It seems to me," said I, "that you are going a little back of my time." A Walk with a Stranger. 89 "O, bother ! You were there the same as I was ! Where can you find any more of that kind of fun? There are no rats, and no saloons open if there were any rats. They are changing everything. Where, for instance, is the old gang that used to get together under the old Tremont afore they raised her out of the mud, and discuss Chicago, swapping lies and corner lots, until broad day light, and then every man going off home a couple of thousand dollars richer — in real estate — than he was when they came together? No more of that now. You can't set around with a jackknife, and a piece of board, and whittle, and lie, and take in a greeny from the east with a couple of acres of unimproved real estate. No, sir; you can't ! Why all our industries are gone ! " "What industries do you mean?" " Why all the industries which we used to follow. There is no more of them industries, and there is no money to be made in a legitimate way. Why, I tell you, it was a mighty poor day, fifteen or twenty years ago, when a smart man couldn't make from five to fifty thousand dollars a day ! There's many a forenoon when I have whittled out more money than you can shake a stick at, just by swapping a lot down town for one the other side of the street a little further up, and when me and the other fellow made a small fortune by the exchange. That was a business that ivas a business ! All the capital needed was a corner lot somewhere, and a credit at the nearest bar. Business ! Why, with such a cap- ital a man was independently rich. It may not have been the case that his actual, available assets were so very enormous, providing he had been sold out by the sheriff; but there were all the possibilities of the 90 Walks About Chicago. situation, all the benefits dreamed of and hoped for, and these were always up among the millions. There's many a time I've gone to bed on an empty stomach; but I was a millionaire all the same, or at least was to be the next day. "Wow, what are people doing for a living? Just downright slavery; that's it, and nothing else ! The old business is busted higher than a kite ! The time has come when a corner lot excites no speculation or curiosity, except on the part of the tax assessor. You can't do any more with a corner lot now, than you can fly by gumming a goose quill under your arm. Unimproved real estate is dropped down until an acre of it is hardly a good collateral for a cock- tail. To do business in these times, you have got to have something besides a jackknife, a strip of shin- gle, and sixty front feet of dirt on some future bou- levard. You have got to have a big balance at some of the marble-front banks; you have got to have your name in one of the books of some of these spy^ ing commercial agencies, with a lot of figgers and letters after it; you have got to work sixteen hours a day for a year to get ten per cent, on your money, and then you don't get it ! " " Don't you think Chicago, with its present won- derful business and improvements is an advance on the old Chicago?" " Indeed I don't ! I'm sick of the present condi- tion of things. Where can you go now, and drop into a cosy lunch-house, where you can put your feet up on a chair, spit all over the floor, and feel as much at home as though you were the proprietor of the shebang? What fun do I have down at that fancy stone dungeon where I live? Not a bit! When I was rich only in prospective increase in A Walk with a Stranger. 91 real estate, I lived in a one story cottage, two rooms deep, with the old woman — I beg her pardon, with Mrs. De Jimson Brown — and the four brats, we was happy, I can tell you! There wasn't one tooth- brush to the dozen of us; we just saved napkins by not having any, and by wiping our mouths off on our sleeves; and when we had any slops we didn't have to pile 'em up in a dry-goods box in the alley, but we just dumped them out back on the prairie. We weren't troubled with sewer-gas, or any such non- sense. The latch-string always hung outside, and there was almost always somebody a pullin' at it, too, you bet! The boys used to drop in whenever they had a mind to. They'd just walk in without knocking, help themselves to a chair, or turn over a bucket if there wasn't a chair handy, and make themselves at home. We'd light up some pipes, put our feet on the window-sills, and be comfortable. In them days the old girl was around with a quarter section of her hair flying one way, mebbe with an old slipper on one foot and a broken down shoe, or, as like as not, nothing on the other. She didn't mind pipes in them days, indeed she didn't! She'd sit around with the rest of us and talk hoss and real estate as glib as though she was in the business. And every once in a while she'd let up for a minit or two to spank a youngun, or swab off its nose with the skirt of her dress, or something of the sort, and then go right on with the hoss talk as if nothing had happened. Now, you know Mrs. De Jimpson Brown pretty near as well as I do. Is it your conscientious opinion that one of them old chums, with his breeches in his boots, the yaller mud all over him up to his eyebrows, and his coat slung over his arm, could walk into the front room down there on the avenue, 92 Walks About Chicago. put his feet up on the window-sill, pull out a black pipe, light it by scratching a match on the seat of his trousers, and then ' get away with it ' if Mrs. Be J. B. was in that neighborhood?" Had I been disposed to interfere in a family mat- ter, I might have very conscientiously responded in the negative. But I said nothing, merely trying to put on a look which might be construed to mean sympathy, acquiescence, or almost anything else. I knew too much of that awful matron to say any- thing which might possibly at sometime be repeated to her; hence I preserved a diplomatic silence. "Oh, but I am just sick of the whole business! My gals have been to Yurroop, and since they've come back, I'm too vulgar for anything, I am! Instead of havin' her hair a-flying over one shoulder or the other, as she used to, the old woman now wears it in semibreves over her f orred, and close down to her eyes, and then at night she takes it off and lays it away in a box. She is whitewashed like a new town-pump, and washes her face with a dry rag. When I want to pull a pipe, I've got to go out in the back yard. We don't have any more social games of draw in the front room, or in any other room, for the matter of that. There's always a lot of thin-legged galoots hanging around the house evenings, and I've no more show there than a sick rat among a half acre of tarriers. Oh, I'm used up with this new-fangled city! Marble fronts every- where! Silk curtains, mahogany furniture, and not a single circus, where you can go and have some fun with the boys! I want some of the old times. I want to go out agin after midnight and hoop up the rats for drinks! I want to fall off a sidewalk, muddy my clothes, and go home a-howlin', and have A Walk with a Stranger. 93 Mrs. De Jimpson Brown pull off my boots, and put me in my little bed! That's what I want! " "And that's just the sort of thing you hadn't bet- ter harness on to at the present time." I responded warningly. "Don't I know that? Don't I? Oh, no! Mebbe I don't!'" And then he went out, and very soon I followed both him and his example. ARMY AND OTHER SKETCHES. £ ^ C=^< 4 3 OS A BOHEMIAN AMONG THE REBELS, £ NE sunny afternoon in September of 1861, I was sauntering by the Planters' Hotel, in St. Louis, when I suddenly found myself face to face with a short, broad-shouldered officer, wearing the uniform of a brigadier- general, and moving .forward at a tremendous gait. " Hallo, General!" " Hallo, W— !" "Where you falling back to at this pace? This beats the time you made getting out of Wilson's creek." "Fremont's just ordered me up the country. I'll be off in five minutes. Come along with us. Train leaves at 3:30. Just time for a little toddy." We went inside, had a " little toddy " mixed, and then the general touched my glass and said: "How!" And, at the same time, I touched his glass and re- marked: "How!" And then the toddy was transferred. I went down to Barnum's, packed up a blanket, a clean collar, a bottle of whisky, a tooth-brush, and, just a moment before train time, was deposited at the depot of the North Missouri railroad. 98 Army and Other Sketches. General Sturgis was already there. Two Ohio regiments of infantry were embarked on freight cars. Sturgis introduced me to such of the staff as I did not know. We all took seats in an aristocratic caboose, and in a little while were whirling toward St. Charles, on the Missouri river. . And thus began a journey of whose termination I then had as little knowledge as I now have of the state of the weather on the next anniversary of our glorious independence. We stopped at Mexico awhile, a week, maybe. Then we went up to Macon City. We were after some bushwhackers whom we didn't catch. Price was closing in on Mulligan at Lexington, and Sturgis had gone up from St. Louis to try and keep the bushwhackers of north-eastern Missouri from going to Price's assistance. The gentlemanly cut-throat whom we were after got off one night, and when the fact was discovered he was miles away, heading for Lexington. As we were infantry and he was mounted, it was not deemed advisable to chase him. Courier with news to Fremont. Courier back in a day or two with orders to go to Mulligan's relief. And then we incontinently started for Lexington. We took the cars to Utica, on the Hannibal and St. Joe railroad. There we left the road and started across the country to Lexington. The distance was about 50 miles. We left at Utica Colonel John Groesbeck, with one- half of his regiment to guard our rear. With the Other half of his regiment, and the whole of tha A Bohemian Among the Rebels. 99 other regiment, we started to relieve Mulligan, be- sieged by something over 20,000 men. To accomplish all this, we had 1,200 men who had never heard anything more warlike than a Chinese firecracker. We had of six and twelve pounders,none; or any other kind of cannon We had of light and heavy cavalry, dragoons, and other mounted men, none. Sturgis had a horse, and I had a mule. We were the only mounted men in an expedition having for its object the penetration of an unknown and hos- tile country, and the rout or capture of 20,000 rebels. But Fremont so ordered, and on we went. We pushed on like a drove of calves. The Buck- eyes were spoiling for a fight the first day. One or two of them got a fight. They upset a bee-gum and stole the honey, and got stung. Sturgis halted the column long enough to cane a couple of the bee thieves, to put their officers under arrest, and to d — n vigorously all thieving sons of , Dutch or otherwise. And then we moved on. That night, when all was still, there came through the air, from the south, a slight pulsation. It was like a faint tapping in the distance. In the bustle of starting in the morning, the pulsation was no longer heard. An hour after starting it was again heard faintly. It grew from a pulsation into a faint sound. Then it grew distinguishable. It finally resolved itself into the roar of a gun. We were 35 miles from Lexington, and yet the sound of the gun came across the prairie, at inter- vals of ten or fifteen minutes, with startling clear- ness. Sturgis brightened up. " So long as we hear that gun," said he, "it's a sign that Mulligan holds out." 100 . Army and Other Sketches. Some of the Buckeyes heard it, and were not so near spoiling for a fight as on the day previous. It was on Tuesday, September 17th, that we thus pushed on within sound of the heavy gun. Nothing of particular import happened. Occasionally a butternut, on a lean horse, met us. He was always a Union man. Was always looking for stray horses. The first one or two of these gentlemen were per- mitted to depart. The rest were invited to stay. To secure their compliance, they were dismounted and requested to fall into the ranks. That night, no occurrence of note. The next morning, we were up and away at dawn. The heavy detonations of the gun still continued to time our march and our anticipations. Soon after daylight, we saw before us, across the prairie, a dense line of timber. It marked, as our involuntary pris- oners told us, the "bottom" lands of the Missouri river. On that Wednesday morning I had eaten only a moderate breakfast. I had reason afterward to re- gret that I had not eaten a heartier one. Just before we reached the line of timber, we saw a man watching us from the road in advance. Two or three men mounted on the horses of our prisoners, quietly made a detour, headed the gentleman off and, soon after, brought him back. He said he lived at a little town named Richmond, just in advance of us. He took General Sturgis aside, and communicated something to him. Then the man was ordered to follow us, and we went on. "See here," said the general. "We are in a pocket. This man tells me that from Richmond to Lexington it is seven miles, and all the way through the bottom. He says the rebels know of our A Bohemian Among the Rebels. 101 coming, and some 5,000 men are in ambush along the road. If we can fight our way through 5,000 men with 1.200 green troops, we shall reach the river. The rebels have all the boats, and have cannon. We can't get across if we ever get to the bank." Just about then the head of the column entered the timber. As it did so, the tinkle of a cow-bell broke the stillness to our left, and a little way in the wood. Another was almost instantly heard from some point beyond it, and then a third coming faintly from the same direction. This direction was toward Lexington. Our approach was evidently being signaled to the party in ambush. The hollow clamor of these bells seemed to have in them some- thing inexpressibly portentous of evil. We soon reached Richmond. A halt was ordered, and the citizens shortly before captured, invited Sturgis to his house to take some champagne. He went, and so did I. Two or three other good fellows joined the procession. The champagne was excel- lent for that section, and plenty of it. Very soon we had from one to two quarts each snugly put away under our waistbands. About this time Sturgis concluded he could not whip 5,000 veterans with 1,200 green volunteers, and cross a wide river without boats whose passage was disputed by cannon. Thereupon he concluded to take his little force, march to the right, and go up to Kansas City. Meanwhile I had held some interesting converse with our entertainer, the result whereof became soon evident. I approached the general : " General, I believe, if you don't object. I will go on to Lexington." 102 Army and Other Sketches. "On to Lexington? On to h — 1, you mean!" " No, Sir; not h — 1, but Lexington, I'm a news- paper correspondent, — a non-combatant you know. I want to see the fight." " Well, old Price'll hang you for a spy in twenty minutes." But I would not listen to the sage advice of the somewhat offended cavalryman. Finally, telling me to go to the devil, if I was determined to, he bade me a gruff farewell. He marched up the river toward Kansas City. Accompanied by my friend of the champagne bottles, I pushed toward Lexington. My hospitable friend had kindly exchanged my mule for a horse. We were both well mounted, and we went down the " bottom " road " howling." Nearly or quite two quarts of champagne were boiling through my brain, whose result was a desire to gallop like the wind, and to yell "like the d — 1" at intervals of about ten seconds. We soon reached a butternut picket, at a little doggery or grocery by the roadside. The rate at which we were riding, the direction of our route, and the amount of yelling which we were perpe- trating would have passed us through any rebel picket from Bull Run to Fort Smith. With a wild cheer for the Plutonian regions, we dashed through the picket and on toward Lexington. Despite the excitement and the rate of speed, I had time to notice that every tree and fallen log, along the road, was occupied by a butternut, with a shot- gun or a squirrel-rifle. Sturgis would have had as much " show " among these gentlemen as a rat-ter- rier in a hornet's nest. A Bohemian Among the Rebels. 103 The rapidity of the ride cooled me somewhat, and when we reached the river I was in a condition to take observations. Opposite, on high bluffs, was Lexington. There seemed a vigorous Fourth of July celebration in operation. There was a frequent explosion of cannon, and an incessant rattle of small arms. The ferry-boat, with steam up, was waiting at the bank. We went aboard, and soon after steamed to the other shore. The streets were full of people. They were almost without exception, sunburnt, butternnt men, who carried double-barrelled shot-guns, or a rifle, and had revolvers, or horse-pistols, and bowie-knives buckled on their waists. My companion and myself pushed through the crowd to the headquarters of Price. They were up stairs, in a building on the main street. A single sentinel, armed with a United States musket and a cavalry sabre, stood at the street entrance. Bidding me wait his return, my companion, upon mentioning that he wished to see General Price, was permitted to pass in without difficulty. In a few minutes he returned, and we ascended the stairs in company. Entering a door at the left, I found my- self in a spacious room, near the street, and in which was seated an elderly gentleman in his shirt-sleeves, and with gray vest and pantaloons. About him were grouped a half-dozen men, most of whom wore sabres and revolvers, and some sort of gray or brown uniform. My companion led me up to the elderly gentle- man, and said: "General Price, this is the prisoner I spoke about." 104 Army and Other Sketches. The old man looked at me keenly, and said: "Who are you?" "Well, general, I am not, as I suppose, a pris- oner. I came here of my free will. I am the cor- respondent of the . I have come voluntarily to your camp, trusting to your well-known chivalry, and relying upon my character as the member of a non-combatant profession." " What is your name?" I gave it. "Your residence?" I told him. " You came with General Sturgis from St. Louis?" " Yes, sir." " How many men has he?" " Pardon me if I decline to answer." " Which way is he going?" "You'll excuse me, General, but I can give you no information whatever as to General Sturgis." "Ah! Now are you sure that you are not sent here by General Sturgis to find out my forces?" "I can only assure you, sir, upon my honor, that I have come simply as a correspondent, and that I have no intention whatever of playing the spy, either in your favor or that of the Federals." There was something in the looks of Price that satisfied me that he did not believe me. He was about to speak again, when one of his staff inquired: "You say your name is ? " "Yes, sir." "Were you at the battle of Wilson's Creek?" "Yes." " Did you write the account of the battle which was copied afterward in the St. Louis Bepublican?" "I did." A Bohemian Among the Rebels. i05 The speaker turned to General Price. " General," said he, " I will say this much for the gentleman. That account was a particularly fair one, and seemed to be written by a man disposed to do justice to both sides." General Price reflected a few moments, and then whispered aside with some of his officers. Finally he said: " Major Savery, you will take charge of this man, and be careful to treat him like a gentleman." He bowed courteously and moved to another part of the room. Major Savery, a man with a huge crimson sash worn from his shoulder, a revolver, and a cavalry sabre, led me into the street. I found that he was the provost marshal. He led me across the street, and then up stairs, into a front room. The door was guarded by a man with a crimson sash, a revolver, a carbine, a sabre. " There," said the major, "you can look out of the window and see the fight. Make yourself com- fortable. I must look around. He went out. I went to the window. The college, the boarding house and grounds occupied by Mulligan were all visible. I could see the smoke of the batteries, hear the crack of small arms, and see the Confederates swarming in the ravines and the timber. I could see the hospital with its yellow flag, and could, in fine, overlook the fight very much as if it were a picture. Mulligan had already been cut off from water for two days. I thought he must be terribly thirsty, which reminded me of the fact that I was in the same condition. It was close upon night, and I had had nothing to eat since daylight, or to drink save 106 Army and Other Sketches. feverish champagne. I appealed to the guard to get me something. He could not leave his post. Darkness came, and with it some members of the provost guard. They had heard my story from Savery, and they regarded me very favorably. I think that, in those days, I could swear, and talk horse equal to the average. Therefore, despite my aristocratic paper collar of four days' age, I "took" with these "boys." They surrounded me. We told rough stories, played seven-up, discussed the poli- tical situation, and I was unanimously voted a " h — 1 of a fellow," as somebody worded it. My popularity was at high tide, when the door was opened, and a lusty nigger shot in like a batter- ing ram. He was evidently moving under the pro- pulsive suasion of a powerful kick. He picked him- self up with a howl of terror, looked wildly around, and saw me. His black face lightened with a gleam of satisfaction, and he said : " Hullo, cap'en, is you here too?" I stared vacantly at the grinning face. To me it had no more elements which I could recognize than the sooty bottom of a potato-skillet. "Whar you from, boy?" asked one of the guards. " Pse from de fort." "Captured?" "Yis." " Do you know this man?" continued the ques- tioner, pointing to me. " Know him? Of course I does. He's capin of a good deal of spare time for almost any thing. The particular time of which I speak was in February of 1863, when the Federal army, or armies, lay on the river above and opposite the Confederate city. General Grant did not, apparently, know what to do, and all the rest of the army was pretty much in the same nonplussed condition. Having nothing to do except to do nothing, every one resorted to some means to kill time. To capture the man with the hour-glass was as much a subject of planning and campaigning as the capture of the rebel city. Accordingly, there sprang into existence no end of pastimes. When the weather permitted, there was base ball, quoits, and horse racing. Occasion- ally somebody got drunk by way of variety. I think that a gentleman, Frank Blair, who ran for Vice President of the United States, last fall, could afford some statistics of high interest with reference to this class of pastimes. But out-door amusement was not to be depended on. When it did not rain, which it did nearly all the time, it was so muddy that land locomotion was largely of the wading style of progress, Therefore, Pap Fuller's Game of Poker. 113 everybody staid in his tent, or on the boats, and got rid of time after the most available process. A fine little amusement, and a favorite one, was one known as draw-poker — called, for short, among its more familiar friends, "draw." Everybody 6i drawed " who had $5 of his own money, or who could negotiate a loan to that amount from an ac- commodating friend. But there were a few capital- ists who hung about the steamboats. They were chiefly cotton-buyers, who were excluded by Grant's rigid orders from going beyond the lines. They had money in plenty, and were always regarded as a valuable accession to a "little game of draw, just for amusement, you know." Other valuable adjucts to the same beautiful little game were the higher officers, who always seemed to have plenty of greenbacks ; quartermasters, whose resources, considering their small salaries, were amazing; paymasters, who were always plethoric; and some Kentuckians, who were down there watch- ing the progress of events, and passionately fond of whiskey, "draw," and moderately non-committal on the question of the negro. On the steamer Thomas E. Tutt, which lay four or five miles above Vicksburg, poker was the fash- ionable amusement. It was the supply-boat of Gen. Steele's command, and was often the headquarters of the general himself. One of his quartermasters was Captain, otherwise and familiarly known as "Pap" Fuller. "Pap" was from Illinois; and if the old gentleman loved anything in the world it was a " nice little game of draw, just to kill time." When I went to my state-room, at three A. M. , I left him indulging in draw. When I got up next morn- ing I found him in the same business, and trying to 114 Army and Other Sketches. " raise " somebody " out" " before the draw," " on two little pair." The captain had accompanied Curtis in his march through Arkansas, and, it was said, he had played draw the entire trip. In any case, he reached Helena several thousands ahead; and this substantial capital was being increased before Yicksburg, until there occurred the incident I am about to relate. One day an arrival from Memphis discharged, among other things, a couple of travelers who announced themselves as cotton-dealers. They got on board the Tutt, and very soon, by their plausible manners, made the acquaintance of the regular habitues of that dilapidated old steamer. They had plenty of money, and knew nothing of any game of cards. The former was proved by their depositing, in the safe of the boat, some bulky packages of greenbacks; and the latter was estab- lished by their own assertions. Nevertheless, they took a decided interest in the game of " draw." They sat about the tables, looked into the players' hands, congratulated the winners, and sympathized with the losers. A man who can learn anything can learn poker, after having seen it played for a week or two. No- body was very much surprised, therefore, to discover, after a fortnight, that both of the new-comers had become participants in the game. Both were cautious awkward, and small players. A " five-cent" game was most to their liking, and anyone could "run them off" with a two-dollar bet. But they improved slowly, although they lost con- stantly. Gradually they progressed from a five-cent game up to the regular game of a dollar "blind." Pap Fuller's Game of Poker. 115 Both seemed to like to play at the same table with Pap Fuller. They lost their money with a good grace, and just the proper amount of chagrin over their bad luck and their lack of knowledge of so beautiful a game. Quite unexpectedly, one night, their luck began to change. They had astounding luck. They won, between them, something like $250. It was very singular, as Pap Fuller observed. He was the prin- cipal loser. " It's d— d singular," remarked that usually lucky veteran. " I never held such hands in my life ! Curse me if they didn't scoop me every time !" The next night it was the same, only more so. The two greenhorns were fearfully lucky. The game broke up at breakfast. Pap Fuller was some $300 out. I found the old gentleman, a couple of hours later, sitting dejectedly in his state-room. A tumbler of whisky cheered his solitude. " See here," said the captain, with a most lugubri- ous shake of the head, " I'm cussed if I see into this 'ere little arrangement. Nobody ever beat old Pap Fuller in that style afore, especially two green uns never done it. The old man is playin' out, I reckon." And he concluded his oration with a pro- found sigh. All that day Pap was invisible, save to one or two. I called at his state-room once or twice. He occu- pied precisely the same position. He muttered to himself constantly. " Every time I had ' threes' one on 'em or the tother had a ' flush.' Ef I had two little pair, one or tother of 'em was sure to lay over me — especially one or tother on 'em had the deal ! 116 Army and Other Sketches. Green are they ? Well, now, p'r'aps, and then again, p'r'aps not. Pap, you're a cussed old idiot." In this sort of way the captain delivered himself, talking sometimes to me and sometimes to himself. And so the day wore away. Night came, and with it, poker. Then, and not till then, did Pap emerge from his den. I looked curiously at the old man. He seemed somewhat subdued and humiliated. He took his seat at the table. The two strangers were already in place. The game began, and the captain lost. At mid- night he had lost $400. The two cotton-buyers were the " big" winners. "See here, boys," said Pap, "I'm losing a good deal of money. Let's change the ante and see if it will change the luck." "How much?" queried one of the cotton-buyers. "Well, let's make the < blind' $25." I was astounded. The cotton-buyers objected, but I detected a gleam of satisfaction in the eyes of both, despite their objections. I feared they would yield — and they did. My first impression was that old Pap had become insane, or utterly reckless. Nevertheless, there was a tightening of his lips that indicated something. I placed myself behind him to watch his hand. I ex- pected something, I knew not what. His manner of discarding surprised me. Every time the deal was with one of the cotton buyers, Ful- ler would get a small pair. When the hands were " helped" there came to him " threes." Instead of keeping the pair, he began to discard it, keeping an ace and king whenever he had them. Pap Fuller'® Game of Poker, 117 Several times he could have made a "full" had he kept his " pair." I began to think he was mad. He lost, but not much. Occasionally he would " call" a hand, but generally, with an anathema on his luck, he threw up his cards. I only saw that he was holding an ace and king when he could get them, and throwing away good pairs. By-and-by it happened that he got a pair of jacks, an ace, king, and another. He discarded the jacks, held the ace and king, and called for three cards. To my unbounded astonishment, when the hands were helped, he received three kings. He now held four kings, with an ace, the highest hand in the game! In a moment the whole policy of the wary old rat flashed over me. He led off by betting $10. The next man " went out." The next was one of the cotton dealers. He raised the captain $25. The next man was the other dealer, and he, after some pretended anxiety, "went $50 better." The next man passed out. To his left was Pap. The veteran's face seemed to express infinite dis- satisfaction over the heavy betting. He hesitated, and then " saw " the $50 " better." The first cotton man deliberated awile, and then raised the pile $100. No. 2 was astounded at such heavy betting, thought of laying down, but finally " went over " his friend. Again Pap called the man on his right. In this way the betting went on. Fuller always called the last man, and the other going a little higher each time. In a few minutes the amount on the table reached the respectable sum of $1,700. Up to this point the bets had been by fifties and hundreds. At this juncture the captain reached in- 118 Army and Other Sketches. to his inside vest pocket, and pulled out an enormous roll of bills. "Gentlemen/' said he, "I'm going to make a spoon or spoil a horn. I raise that last $2,000;" so saying he laid four $500 bills on the piles. The cotton dealers seemed suddenly taken aback. They shot suspicious glances at the cast-iron visage of old Pap, but it was as void of expression as the face of an anvil. They studied, hesitated, and shifted about uneasily. Finally one of them went up to the safe of the boat and brought out their pile. It was just large enough for one of them to call. He " called " Fuller, and the other" went out." The cotton dealer had four tens. The captain ex- hibited his four kings and raked down the enor- mous pile of greenbacks. The cotton-dealers turned decidedly pale, and sat speechless and stupefied. Soon after, without a word, they withdrew to their state-rooms. "You see, my boy," said Pap, as he poured me out a little "commissary," "I made up my mind them fellows were sharp. Nobody ever beat me in a square ' game ' as they've beat me for the last week." " That is so." " So I studied the thing out. I wasn't going to squeal. You seen how I worked it. I just held on to an ace and king, knowing that bimeby the rest would come along. Bimeby they did come. Them cussed fools had put up the keards, and they thought I had a king ' full ' with jacks. But you see I didn't. Oh, no, I guess not." And the captain proceeded to arrange, and lay away, in an iron chest, his winnings, which amount- ed to something over $5,000. Pap Fuller's Game of Poker. 119 "I'mmore'n even with 'em, I reckon," said the veteran, with a satisfactory shake of his grizzly head. The next day, the two sharpers borrowed enough of old Pap to pay their fare to St. Louis. They left in the next boat, and were never again seen in the vicinity of the Tutt or Pap Fuller. RECOLLECTIONS OF GEN. FRED. STEELE. Blpr was in 1861 that I became acquainted with jP the gallant gentleman whose name heads these recollections. It was in July. At that time, Lyon, at the head of a small force, composed of three-months' volunteers — some "Missouri Dutchmen," as they were popularly termed — was crossing Missouri^ from Booneville to Springfield. One night, just before dark, Lyon's little command reached the Osage Crossing, where we met another force, consisting of some Kansas cavalry and a bat- talion of regular infantry, under command of Major Sturgis. To our eyes there was nothing ever half so warlike and redoubtable as this squadron of Kan- sas cavalry, as it was drawn up in line to receive us. With their carbines slung over their shoulders, and their long steel sabres, the men seemed, to our un- sophisticated vision to be invincible. A sentiment akin to pity percolated through my thoughts as I thought of the rebels who should be doomed to meet these heroes. That evening was occupied, after the camp had been established, in visiting the new-comers. Being a member of that gallant band known as "Bohe- mians," I had the privilege of going where and doing about as I pleased. Therefore, when the colonel, Recollections of Gen. Fred, Steele. 121 who did me the honor to share with me his tent, mess, and bottle, went over to pay his respects to Major Sturgis, I was invited to grace the occasion. Never, perhaps, was there a more representative military crowd than was embodied in the majority of those gathered that evening in Major Sturgis' tent. There were the genial "Sam. Sturgis," — so termed by his familiars of the regular army, — Capt. Gordon Granger, Capt. Dan. Heuston, Capt. Totten, Capt. Fred. Steele, Lieuts. Sokalski, Sullivan, and others, — many of whom have since achieved a world- wide reputation; and of whom some, alas ! have passed forever beyond the domain of convivial gatherings. At that time, as every one knows, a regular army officer was something for the mass to look up to. I well remember the momentary daze which came over me as I was introduced to so many luminaries that had risen in the orient of West Point. It speaks volumes, likewise, for the suavity of these gentle- men, to state that, although ununif ormed and intro- dvced as plain Mr. , and without any allusion being made to my profession, not one of these men, during the evening, forgot or mispronounced my name, or ignored my presence, in the lively and prolonged conversation which ensued. Such an example of politeness, let me add, is not uncommon among the older army officers, although it is unfre- quent among no small number of their successors. I met, on that evening, two events — if I may so term them — which I had never met before, and which I am certain never to forget. One of these "events" — may his shade pardon me! — was Capt. Fred. Steele; and the other "event" was the 122 Army and Other Sketches. elixir vitce, the nectar of the regular army, — whisky toddy. Introductions were no more than ended when Sturgis remarked: "Orderly, get out the materials. Gentlemen, I want you to taste some of Steele's toddy. He is the best toddy-maker in the world ! " The delicate, slender, light-featured Capt. Steele came modestly forward, and, almost blushing under the encomiums of his chief, went to work. How carefully and artistically he labored ! So much of the pure sugar, so much water, so much rye; a drop more or less, a grain too many or little, were ruin — were a catastrophe worse than a daub of house-paint in the face of Correggio's Magdalene. The ingre- dients mixed with a precision greater than that of a druggist who puts up a prescription wherein a sin- gle additional grain makes the whole a deadly poison, — then came the quaffing. The small, white hand of Steele passed around the tin cups, and then, with a gutteral "How!" each man inverted his measure just above his lower lip. Ye gods ! io triumphe ! — I shall never forget the delicious sensation which stole through my system, like slow- moving, electric flashes, as the concoction ran down my throat. The brew of Steele is abso- lutely indescribable. Accedant capiti cornua, Bacchus eris, But, in that tent on the Osage, one needed not to put on horns to become Bacchus; he, the rather, swallowed a "horn" of Steele's concoction, and straightway became a god. Such are my first recollections of Steele. He struck me then for his finished elegance of manner. Recollections of Gen. Fred. Steele. 123 As toddy succeeded toddy, voices grew louder, and bursts of laughter rang out wide through the forest. Steele alone did not become boisterous. His pale cheeks simply became delicately tinted, as if from a touch of rouge; his blue eyes lighted up, as if from inspiration; and his thin voice became stronger, but not louder, as the wassail grew fast and furious. Steele was never demonstrative. And so the cool- ness with which he faced the iron and leaden storm at Wilson's Creek was not recognized as a trait requiring universal panegyric or immediate promo- tion. The next time I saw him was at Helena, in No- vember of 1862. He was in command of the post. Wishing facilities for getting about, I called at his headquarters. I wrote my request on a card, and sent it in by an orderly. He returned almost instantly with a request to come in. A shaking of hands, and then an adjournment to a small room adjoining, in which was a sideboard, and on which was a row of gleaming decanters. Close by was sugar; and soon there came water! Steele, although then a major-general, had not forgotten his cunning. He mixed as dextrously as when a captain; and I could not taste the slightest depreciation in the character of his production. It was but a little later that Sherman's force decencled the Mississippi river and debarked on the Yazoo bottom. I accompanied General Steele on the steamer " Continental " We overtook Christ- mas, or Christmas overtook us, on our way down. The grand old anniversary was celebrated in due form. I retired soon after dark to escape what I knew would prove an all-night symposium. For hours, sleep was chased away by a jollity that found vent 124 Army and Other Sketches. in song, anecdote, and laughter. The next morning saw a humbled crowd among those who, toward noon, crept painfully from their berths. Steele alone was an exception. Up betimes in the morn- ing, his eye was as clear, his voice as free from huskiness, and his hand as firm as though the pre- ceding night had been one of profound repose. And here, as I approached the battle of Chickasaw Bayou, let me diverge to state something which I do not think was ever before published. On the night that we reached Johnson's Landing, on the Yazoo, a party of us gathered in the " texas " of a steamer, to while away the evening with a game of cards. One of the players was Colonel John B. Wyman, whose name will meet with universal recognition. Who the other players were, does not matter. All that evening Wyman was abstracted and un- easy. When playing, he played badly and care lessly, as if his mind were on some other subject. Between the deals he would rise and pace the nar- row room, with bowed head and preoccupied air. "What is it, colonel?" I asked. " I don't know, myself. I think I shall fight to- morrow. My boys have never had a brush yet. I want them to do well." "They will, of course ! " "Oh, yes, I'll bet they will! But, Christ! how uneasy I am. I wish I could hear from home. My wife " and here his voice sank into a mutter which was indistinguishable. And so till midnight. As we were about to part for the night, I said: " Colonel, if you take your boys on the bluff to- morrow, it will give you a star." Recollections of Gen. Fred. Steele. 125 "Yes, I know; but something will happen, I am sure." And then, with a preoccupied air, he added, as if to himself, " If I could only hear from home — from my wife " And I heard no more. The next morning, in a preliminary movement, he was shot through the lungs. In less than twenty-four hours after we parted, I saw him again — this time a corpse. Just before dark Steele moved his command, on the extreme federal left, into position, in front of the rebel lines. We pushed out along a high levee, and then the command deployed off to the left and lay down. It was as dark as Erebus, and cold as the lowermost of Dante's hells. An assault had been ordered at daylight next morning. As we were under the rebel guns, no fires could be lighted. Just before daybreak, Steele's orderly built a little fire behind the gnarled roots of an immense cedar, and proceeded to boil some coffee. Around the tiny blaze were gathered General Steele; Hovey, of the Illinois Normal School; Thayer, of Nebraska; and myself. A day or two before I had picked up a copy of Andrew's Ovid, near some deserted house. As we gathered about the fire, Steele noticed the end of the book protruding from my haversack. He pulled it out and opened it. Turning by chance to the ac- count of the nuptials of Perseus and Andromeda, he read aloud, giving a line in Latin, and then render- ing it in English. At length he came to the passage: " pennisque fugacem Pegason et fratrem, matris de sanguine." Here he seemed to have some doubt as to the pre- cise meaning of a word. Then occurred a discussion 126 Army and Other Sketches. which was classical and profound, and might have continued indefinitely had not Hovey given an opin- ion, which, owing to his Normal School precedents, was acquiesced in as being beyond appeal. I relate this little incident simply to show Steele's complete indifference to danger. Not half a mile away lay a line of rebel rifle pits which were to be stormed. Just beyond them rose heights bristling with heavy guns, every one of which commanded our camp. An attack was expected to be made within a few minutes, and which everybody knew must be a failure. And yet, at this precise moment, Steele was as cool and unruffled as if the next move were to be to breakfast instead of battle. When the moment came for attack, Steele moved forward along a road swept by rebel guns as coolly as if he were leading his company at dress parade. I might relate any number of instances of Steele's behavior in battle, every one of which would prove him a man who, if not absolutely insensible to fear, never allowed the shadow of apprehension to dwell upon his face. Once, on the march from Jackson, to Vicksburg, I saw him enter a store alone which was filled with a maddened crowd of Federal soldiers, who were drunk to desperation, and who presented their loaded muskets at the breasts of their own officers. With only a small revolver in his hand, he dashed into the centre of the howling mass, and in three minutes he had driven every ruffian into the street. There was a murderous glare in his eye, and a compression of his lips, which carried a mean- ing that no one of the plundering horde could mis- understand. Of his charges on the 19th of May, at Vicksburg, and his subsequent military career, I need not speak. Eecollections of Gen. Fred. Steele. 127 In every instance he showed himself impervious to danger. As a commander, Steele was better calculated to lead a corps under somebody else, than he was to have charge of an independent department. He preferred to execute rather than to plan. It left him a leisure on his hands which he could devote to social intercourse and intellectual cultivation. I believe he was not married at the time of his death. He was always an ardent admirer of wo- men, but mainly in the old, chivalrous way. Full of anecdote and reminiscence, he yet never made the frailities of woman the theme of such relation. In all his acts he treated the sex with a courtly, re- spectful tenderness. His hospitality was unbounded, providing his guests possessed geniality. His mess was always a crowded one, most of whom were invited partici- pants. Any man who was cultivated was always sure of finding himself welcome. The intelligence of his death will cause a wide and profound sorrow. Those who know him well entertain a respect for his memory second to that felt for no illustrious man whom the country has lost since the beginning of the rebellion. I will close these recollections with a sketch which I once made of the appearance of Gen. Steele, at a time, in 1863, when I was in daily intercourse with him. * * * Like a Geneva watch, he presents but little surface. His merits, the fine machinery and exquisite balance, are all within. A small and well- knit man of 38 ; with a hand delicate and white as a lady's ; light complexion, only preserved from effeminacy by a flowing beard ; eyes of light .blue, 128 Army and Other Sketches. and a full, compact forehead ; dress neat, elegant, with a touch of velvet about the cuff and collar ; always free from dust, and as clean as if stepping out for a dress-parade at his alma mater — West Point — such are the outer peculiarities of General Steele. Without ever being over-dressed, he is, I think, the best dressed and best mounted man in the army. His prevailing trait is quietness,— a gentle- manly sort of repose, — which he carries with him undisturbed, whether doing the honors of the table to his friends, or directing the movements of a storm- ing party, amidst the roar of fiercest battle. Few soldiers among volunteers love, but all respect him. As a strict, unyielding disciplinarian, he frequently excites their dislike; but his unruffled calmness when surrounded by the surging waves of battle; his pre-eminent skill in guiding their movements; and the lightning-like rapidity with which he adapts himself to the new combinations created in a con- flict — compel their admiration, and have won their highest respect. He chats with you unconcernedly up to the very moment he enters a battle; and, the instant it is over, resumes his sociability, and discourses upon general subjects as if the affair through which he had passed were of as little account as washing his hands for dinner. SOME PEOPLE I HAVE MET. £& H^ N the latter part of 1862, for several months, f I was in Washington. At that time almost everybody of note was at the front; but now and then the capital was enlivened by the M presence of some one who was worth taking a ^ second look at. I was standing one day in front of the Metropoli- tan, in company with a son of Dr. Tom Edwards. '• Do you see that little cuss coming along yon- der?" inquired my companion, as he pointed up the avenue. Following the line of his index finger, there ap- peared what I, at first, took to be a boy. It was an individual scarcely more than four feet nine, and slender in proportion. He approached us at a tear- ing gait for such an infant. His slender legs were alternately planting a delicate patent leather boot on the sidewalk in what was the double-quick of going on a walk. A little cane kept time, like a pen- dulum made of astraw, to the swift movement of his extremities. A little eye-glass bestrode a rather large nose; a low-crowned hat was on a small head. All this I took in as he approached us. The next moment he shot by us like an infant hurricane. I had but just time to notice that he had the Fed- eral eagles on his shoulders, that he was, although 130 Army and Other Sketches. whiskerless, wrinkled up to about forty-five, and that he marched with the upper portion of his body bent forward, while his eyes were fixed immovably upon the ground, at the regulation distance of fif- teen paces to the front, as if he were deeply preoc- cupied: " Can't say I do know him. I should say he is a very old young man, or a very young old man. Who is he, any how?" "That's Prince Salm Salm." "Oh!" "Yes. A fighter, too, he is ! I saw him at Bull Eun. I was running away one way on foot, when I met him running away the other way on a horse. I just ketched his bridle, and says I, ' Look here, cap- ten, we want that horse for the artillery!' He jumped off without a word and struck out on exactly the same gait that I had just been falling back on. I slid into his saddle and kept on falling back till I got to Washington." The next time I saw the noble infant, he was gorgeous in Federal uniform. On his right arm, and towering a full head above him, was a royal dame, who, although not really tall, rose to a Juno-like stature, when contrasted with her slender protector. Her eyes were large, liquid, and filled with a sort of oriental languor. They were a blue-black, and seemed to express infinite tranquillity and self-pos- session. Her hair was very heavy, of a very dark brown, and was carried back in bands after a style which I can not describe, but which gave force to the character of her head without detracting from the womanly softness of her face. Her lips were full, her mouth handsomely cut, her complexion a mixture, as if it were the results of combining the Some People I Have Met. 131 more delicate light and shadow of the blonde and brunette with the least possible predominance of the latter. Her dress was very rich, and yet in no respect gaudy. Her movement was erect and elastic, her bearing a compromise between haughti- ness and gentleness, with a perceptible dash of both. In age, she was about twenty-four; and in appear- ance, she was a woman whom a man would first glance at wonderingly, and then turn to look at admiringly. Such was the Princess Salm Salm, as I then, and frequently after, saw her, arm in arm, on Pennsylvania Avenue, with her diminutive hus- band. One night, Washington was ablaze with excite- ment. General Corcoran had returned from a South- ern prison, and there was to be a reception, a sere- nade, and speeches, at Willard's. At the appointed time, I sauntered down to the hotel, in front of a balcony, from whence the speaking was expected. I placed my back against a vacant tree, and, thus luxuriously situated, I awaited the coming of events. I had barely arranged myself when I was staggered by a tremendous blow on my shoulder. My first idea was that I had been struck by a falling chim- ney, and then, upon looking around, I saw a quasi acquaintance, an office-seeking Goliath, named Cap- tain Payson, withdrawing a hand, the shape and size of a ham, from my shoulder. It was a way Payson had of attracting one's atten- tion. He was a man who would awaken a sleeping child by firing a 200-pound cannon near its ear, or knock a man's brain s out in attempting to brush a fly from his forehead. 132 Army and Other Sketches. " I want to introduce a friend," said he. I glanced up. By his side stood a gentleman of about forty- five years of age, tall, elegantly formed, with light hair, a complexion evidently once fresh, but now approaching somewhat the color of sole-leather, and seamed with a thousand infinitesimal wrinkles, as if they had been ploughed with the point of a cam- bric needle. His eyes were a mild gray, his features, regular and mobile, and his bearing erect and digni- fied. ' ' Gentlemen, know each other, Mr. Blank, Colonel Charles Edward Lester," and Payson drew out this name till it seemed as long as an average clothes- line. " Gallants, lads, boys, hearts of gold," said the stranger in a sonorous, musical voice, and with an unmoved countenance; " all the titles of good fel- lowship come to you ! What, shall we be merry? Shall we have a drink extempore?" Piloted equally by the captain and the colonel, I crossed the street, and threaded a devious route to some secluded retreat, where prohibitory liquor law was supposed to have no jurisdiction. We " smiled" and "smiled again," and then commenced my ac- quaintance with the author of the " Glory and Shame of England," and who proved one of the most remarkable, in many respects, men whom I have ever known. We returned to the sidewalk in front of Willard's. Just then, Colonel Mulligan came forward on the balcony and began to speak. Lester listened a few moments, and then remarked: "By heavens! There's more electricity in that man's oratory than in that of any other man I have ever listened to." Some People I Have Met. 133 A little later, I had the pleasure of making these two men acquainted. Mulligan was a warm ad- mirer of Lester's principal work. They fraternized at once ; and one of the most brilliant interchanges of thought I ever listened to followed, but which Came to an abrupt termination, in about five min- utes, by the sudden recollection of the author that it had been as much as ten minutes since he had taken a drink. Mulligan would not go ; Lester would. And so they parted — mutually pleased, and mutually disap- pointed. Lester was, or is, the finest conversationalist whom I have ever heard, and, if he will pardon the additional compliment, the most incorrigible bummer. For three months, I impoverished myself in paying for his whisky, simply to hear him talk. He was equally firm on two points ; one of these was, to never refuse an invitation to a drink, and the other was never to pay for one. The latter reason was founded upon adequate pe- cuniary premises. No subject was foreign to his abilities. Once Con- sul at Genoa, and an extensive traveler, he appeared to know all men and all places. He seemed as fa- miliar with authors as ordinary men are with the alphabet. It was a custom of mine, on Sunday morning, if the day promised to be fair, to purchase a quart of whisky, hire a carriage, find the colonel, and drive somewhere in the charming vicinity of Kalorama. Some green and shady spot would be selected, the hack turned loose, the bottle conveniently arranged, so as to lie equally within "striking distance" of 134 Army and Other Sketches. both, and then would begin an entertainment which I shall never forget. My part was little more than to listen, to some- times suggest a topic, to oftener repress emotions which sprang into active life under his influence. His style varied with the subject of his conversa- tion. Now, he was calm, equable, dignified; again, his words rushed forth, a torrent of fiery enthusi- asm; or he spoke in a low voice, broken with sobs, while his face was bathed with tears. Where or how he lived in Washington, I never knew or inquired. He was to be found at certain hours about Williard's, awaiting an invitation to drink. He spoke often of his family with pride, and never of his wife save with a profound respect. He rarely mentioned the latter unless it was to couple her with some apropos poetical quotation, in which the tender utterances of Milton's Adam to Eve always bore a prominent part. One day I suddenly left Washington. The last I saw of my friend, the author, the diplomat, the poet, philosopher, statesman, gentleman, and (then) bum- mer, he was sitting in the reading-room at Willard's, with an expression on his face of intellectual grand- eur, of dignity, of benevolence, and of — unquench- able thirst. SOME REMEMBERED FACES. OOKING backward, through an experience SH L53 E °^ a here and there faces which, framed in di- verse events, stand out with the distinctness of fresh and well-executed pictures. I suppose that my experience, in this respect, is not singular; and that others, as well as my- self, can, with a retrospective glance, discover these marked faces, which, in some instances, are wholly dissociated from time or events. One sees them as he might a portrait suspended in air, or in a vacuum, and entirely bereft of sur- roundings. At other times, these faces are inseparably inter- woven or framed with incidents. Now, it is the smoke of a battle; again, it appears in the green of a prairie; in the white surroundings of a tent; in an illuminated border of angry countenances and flash- ing eyes. Sometimes, as I have said, the face alone remains; and I know neither, when, where, nor un- der what circumstances I saw it. Let me try to present copies of two or three of these portraits. I can not answer for the fidelity of these presentations. To embody and reproduce what is but an attenuated memory is a work which is per- plexing, unsubstantial, and, in its results, unsatis- factory. 136 Army and Other Sketches. Once, during the war, I was in the wheel-house of an iron-clad gun-boat, on the Cumberland river, About six hundred yards in front of us was a Con- federate battery. Looking through the small orifice in the cuirassed wheel-house, I could see only a dense white smoke which lay in banks about the square prow of our vessel. At short intervals I could see a broad flash of red flame rive its way through this white surrounding like a vast sheet of lightning shattering some mass of clouds. A rumbling and massive roar accompanied these flashes, and the clumsy iron boat shuddered under the recoil of the guns. Incessantly from out the mass of vapor that en- veloped us there came fierce hissings which passed and left upon the air a vibration like an echo. At times, this hiss would suddenly terminate, and the depths of the drifting masses, about us, for a brief instant, would become suddenly roseate, as if illu- minated by a flash of red fire. My companion, the pilot, seemed little moved by these surroundings. He listened to the signals from below, and labored to hold the boat immovable against the current. He was a tall man, with an ordinary, pleasant face, upon which there rested only an expression of sober earnestness. Suddenly there was a savage hiss from out the smoke, then the turret in which we stood seemed shattered as by the fall upon it of a thousand tons of rock. There was an explosion that rent my ear with deafening violence, and I was dashed violently backward. At the same moment, a jet of some warm fluid struck me across the face. Involuntarily, I turned to my companion, and then Some Remembered Faces. 137 I saw framed one of those faces which I have never forgotten. His hands still grasped the wheel, and he stood bare-headed and erect. His lips were just parted, as if he was about to speak; his heavy hair seemed dashed away from his brow, and his gray eyes looked straight into mine, with a sad, wondering expres- sion. There was in his glance something infinitely solemn, and yet expectant — a mingling of what seemed surprise and appeal. For three or four seconds I looked at this face, over which there was moving something that was like the shadow of rigidity. His lips parted more and more, his jaw began to settle slowly down, and then he sank like a mass of gelatine to the floor. A splinter had torn open his breast, and he was dead before his hands were unclasped from the wheel. The hair thrown back, the pleading and wonder- ing interrogation of his glance, the awful shadow of fixedness that stole across his face, and the slow dropping of his jaw, form one of the portraits which I see and contemplate even yet with a chill of hor- ror, as I review these memorable faces of the past. Shortly after the battle of Shiloh, in wandering from point to point within the federal lines, I found myself belated, at dark, at the little town of Monte- rey, a few miles west of Corinth. In questioning a surgeon as to the location of a point I wished to find, there resulted a quasi-acquaintance, which ended in my being cordially invited to spend the night at his quarters. We remained in a sort of field-dispensary until long after taps, and then I was shown a place to sleep, in a tent a short distance away. 138 Army and Other Sketches. 1 The night was calm, and the regiments were bur- ied in profound repose. Not a sound broke the still- ness as I wrapped myself in a blanket and composed myself to slumber. I was lingering in that delight- ful region which divides the domain of wakefulness from that of sleep, when there came through the still air a voice which said: " Oh, Lord !" It was apparently a thin, childish tone, weakened as if by suffering, and yet penetrating in its clearness. At intervals of ten minutes, perhaps, the same voice rang out the same " Oh, Lord ! " upon the still- ness. Sleep seemed to follow it away through the darkness. Hour after hour passed, and still I lay awake, listening to this monotonous cry. It did not seem one of terror. It appeared rather one inspired by loneliness, by suffering, and by the absence of hope. It was suggestive of the tired moan of a weary child, which wishes for, yet suffers, and is too exhausted to rest. There was a tone in it as if pleading for relief, and which, so thin, so weak, so boyish, it suggested only the relief to be found on the bosom of a mother. And thus, pleading, calling, with a hint of queru- lousness, the plaint was heard until the darkness began to dissolve into the misty gray of dawn. Fainter came the voice as the hours moved on, until, at daybreak, it had passed into an incoherent utterance, and then ceased altogether. Soon after, I arose, passed out, and found myself just opposite a large hospital tent, which lay in the direction of the voice which had timed so sadly the weary hours of the night. Crossing over, I pushed aside the flap, and entered. Rows of cots were upon either side, some occupied Some 'Remembered Faces. 139 and some empty. In response to my inquiry, a sol- dier directed me to a cot on the further side. "He's gone," said my sententious informant. And here, upon this cot, I found another of those faces which I see yet with the same distinctness that I saw it then. A slender form was outlined from beneath the blanket. The shoulders and head were only visible. It was not a poetical face. The hair was unkempt, the forehead low, and the contour of the head not striking. But the face was small, wasted, and boy- ish. The lids were half unclosed, and revealed blue eyes that were fixed and staring. The cheeks were small and childish, the mouth delicate, while over the forehead, cheeks, and chin had fastened itself that awful rigidity which so completely effaces the elastic expressions of life. The characteristic of the face that most interested me, was its youthfulness. It was so little, so weak. It seemed to belong to one who should have been pillowed in a cradle, rather than to have been sent out into the great world to grapple alone with death. Whose child it was that thus met death face to face, and, unassisted, and unsupported, carried on the ter- rible struggle, and was vanquished, I never knew. I have only a knowledge of a pale, thin young face, that lay with its blue eyes staring unmeaningly into vacancy. Other faces present themselves to this retrospect. There is an ineffably sad face, womanly, pale, with dark eyes that look without seeing, masses of heavy black hair carefully arranged, compressed lips, with a settled expression of despair, which I have seen, but when and where I know not. It is not the face 140 Army and Other Sketches* of a picture, but of a woman whom I have some- where met, whose sorrow has always commanded my profound- sympathy, and whose rare, sad beauty yet preserves for itself a warm admiration. There are other faces, fixed and intensified as they are when in the presence of mortal peril. Here is one of a blue-eyed baby, and there another of a lout- ish boy, or some laughing girl, or the corrugated front of some paralytic octogenarian. He who recalls these portraits, who studies their traits, will be surprised to find how much more last- ing are sorrowful than sunny faces. He will find that there are a dozen faces in his mental gallery that scowl, are suffering, are flushed with painful emotions, are staring in death, that sadden, where there is one that smiles, and to recall which, and examine, is a task of pleasure. A REMINISCENCE OF THE WAR. HE incident I am about to relate is one which, during the sublime convulsions of a great war, would escape notice. It is a lit- tle occurrence; and yet it contains volumes of meaning with reference to one of the most gal- lant men who, during the late war, drew his sword in the cause of the government. It was in the month of April, 1863, that I was con- nected with a metropolitan newspaper as its west- ern correspondent. At the precise time of which I am about to write, Grant had run the Vicksburg batteries, and had crossed a portion of his army just below Grand Gulf. The advance, under Osterhaus, had repulsed the confederates in front of Port Gib- son, and had reached Black river on its northward march. Here Osterhaus had been joined by Gen- eral Grant; and a halt of two or three days was de- termined upon, in order to allow a concentration of the Federal forces, who reached all the way from Richmond, nearly opposite Vicksburg, around by Perkins' plantation, Grand Gulf, Bruinsburg and Porfc Gibson, to Grant's headquarters at Black river. When these forces were concentrated, it was in- tended to resume the march around Vicksburg via Jackson, the capital of Mississippi. 142 Army and Other Sketches. I accompanied the advance, and reached Black river at the same time as did the commander-in- chief. Upon arrival there, I found myself wofully in need of a change of clothing. My baggage was all upon the boat at the Federal landing opposite Yicksburg. When the expedition had started to move below Yicksburg, there was a universal disbe- lief in its success. I shared this opinion ; and, antici- pating a defeat, and possibly the necessity of a hasty retreat, I had moved in light marching order ; that is, I limited myself to the single suit of clothes which I wore, and the necessary paraphernalia of a Bo- hemian. The march to Black river occupied some time ; the route was dirty ; it had rained frequently; and, there being but few tents with the advance, — the baggage being left at the river, — I found my- self looking more like a chimney-sweep than a re- spectable journalist. Having learned that the army would remain certainly as many as three days at its position on Black river, I determined to return to the landing opposite Vicksburg, and rehabilitate myself in a shape conducive, at least, to cleanliness. These particulars are unimportant, save as they may serve to recall the Federal movements, likewise as they may indirectly bear upon the position in which I soon after found myself. To reach the Vicksburg landing, I had a ride of forty miles to Grand Gulf ; then a trip by steamer to the other side of the Mississippi, at Perkins' plan- tation; and then r a ride of thirty miles more to the landing. I calculated thas the trip would occupy a day and a half each way ; and I should, therefore, be able to return to headquarters on Black river within three days, or before the Federal army re-, commenced its advance. A Reminiscence of the War. 143 The weather had been rainy ; after which there followed a close, oppressive heat. I made the forty miles a little after noon of the morning of my de- parture ; caught the tug at Grand Gulf ; and leav- ing the landing at the other side long before day- light the next clay, I reached the Federal boats op- posite Vicksburg about ten o'clock in the morning. I made the necessary changes ; and, mounted upon a fresh horse, which was supplied me by a friendly quartermaster, I commenced my return soon after noon. The roads were in excellent order, my beast a superior animal, and I had no fears as to my ability to regain Perkins' plantation in time to catch the down-boat in the evening. As I have said, the weather was oppressively warm. There was not a breath of air stirring, and everything seemed weighed down by the heat, as if it were possessed of enormous gravity. My ride of the day before and of the morning of my return, was, considering the heat, of extraordinary length. I was somewhat fatigued when I started back ; and this feeling soon after was succeeded by one of a serious and most unpleasant nature. I found that, upon the slightest turning of my head from one side to the other, I would lose the power to balance my- self, and could only prevent myself from falling from my horse by instinctively grasping the pom- mel of the saddle. I had passed through Richmond when these symp- toms attacked me, and I was too far on my journey to think of returning to the Vicksburg landing. An oppressive premonition seized me, and I feared that, in a little while, I would become totally blind and helpless, 144 Army and Other Sketches. The route over which I moved was that which had been taken by the Federal forces; but it was en- tirely deserted. The rear of our army had passed; and the few houses which presented themselves at long intervals were as silent as graves. The cotton- gins were heaps of smouldering ruins; and the negro cabins and the plantation houses stood with opened doors and shattered windows. There was nowhere a sign of life, save here and there a broken-down mule, and an alligator sunning itself upon some log in the bayous. The paunches and horned-skulls of beeves, the skins and entrails of swine, broken cracker-boxes, dead camp-fires, innumerable foot- paths, and deep ruts cut by the loaded wagons, marked the route of the passing army. But all life had disappeared with it. There was not even the defiant bark of the usually omnipresent dogs of the negroes. No cattle lowed from the ricks; no horses or mules cropped the springing grass. Everywhere were only desolation, solitude, destruction. Dead mules, bloated enormously, and with legs thrust out rigidly outward, appeared at intervals. Intolerable stenches from decaying animal matter poisoned the air, and loaded each breath with a deadly nausea. There was nothing beautiful, save the clear sun- light, and the long hedges decorated with an infinite variety of gorgeous flowers. As may easily be understood, the absence of all life, the constant presence of death, the decay, the ruin and desolation, the sickening odors, all con- sipired to add strength to the illness which possessed me. The death about me constantly suggested death ; and the odors of rottenness the decay which seemed destined to make me its prey. I grew worse each instant. The air seemed to come from a blast A Reminiscence of the War. 145 furnace, — a combination of parching heat and nause- ating stench. My tendency to fall from my horse became each moment greater, and my eyes were filled with millions of black, elongated specks, which impeded my vision, and which, increasing constantly in size, promised soon to become an unbroken veil of darkness. I felt that I was rapidly becoming blind; and my mind, fast losing coherence, reasoned scarcely at all, but instead, became the abode of numberless dire apprehensions. I had, however, sense enough to know that my safety, if existing anywhere, lay in advance. I therefore clung ten- aciously to the mane of my horse, and spurred des- perately forward. Racking pains run along my spine, an immense weight seemed to lie upon my brain. It was some hours after I left Richmond; and the bayou, whose course I was following, and its levees, seemed interminable. I was fast verging upon a state of complete unconsciousness, when I saw dimly a house, at whose front was a score of horses. A few orderlies in blue moved among them, and some cavalrymen were warming coffee over a fire kindled among the shrubbery. On the long piazza, which ran around the house, was seated a group of Federal officers. My horse, of its own accord, turned in through a gap in the hedge, and, coming up to the portico, stopped. My head swam for an instant, as if whirled by machinery, and then I fell forward insensible. My next recollection is, that I was seated on my horse and moving forward. Upon each side of me rode an orderly, by whom I was sustained in my saddle. From behind came the clanking of sabres, as if from an escort. In front of me rode three or 146 Army and Other Sketches. four officers, one of whom I recognized, by his star, to be a general. I noticed that he was slightly built, with light hair, and a smooth, boyish face. I had an opportunity to observe these particulars, for the reason that, at short intervals, he turned towards me with a compassionate air, as if to satisfy himself of my condition. Once or twice he addressed me; but I was so dizzy, confused and pained that I evidently could not answer him satisfactorily. For what seemed an age, this slow journey con- tinued. After a while we crossed the bayou to our left, and, after a long time spent in floundering through some low grounds across which the road led, we came into a clearing, and just before us ran the broad, sluggish Mississippi. I had a dim con- sciousness, from the charred ruins of what had once been a house, and from other features, that we were at Perkins' plantation. Some blankets were spread under a tree, and I was assisted from my horse and laid upon them. The officer with the star on his shoulder seated himself in a camp chair close by me, and found time, when not giving directions about encamping, to inquire as to my condition, my name and destination. The first of these required no answer. As to the others, I could tell nothing, except to give utterance to incoherent utterings. My thoughts possessed some little clearness, but my tongue refused to interpret them. Soon after, a small, white tent was raised near me. I was offered some coffee; but the mere oder nause- ated me, and it was taken away; and then I was supported into the tent. In one end was a cot, upon which were blankets, and clean, white sheets. I was assisted to undress, and placed in the bed; and, in a A Reminiscence of the War, 147 little while, between slumber and illness, I sank into unconsciousness. The quiet, the rest, with perhaps the fact that my attack had culminated and spent its force, restored me. I awoke at dawn without a particle of the feel- ing which possessed me the day before. It required some time to recall my wandering thoughts so as to take in the seemingly interminable events of the pre- vious day, and to explain the unwonted comforts of my position and surroundings. Slowly I gathered up the raveled, broken, knotted threads of remem- brance; and then, hastily dressings I went into the open air. There was just sufficient light to render objects indistinctly visible. All over the clearing were camp- fires, some of which yet flickered feebly, while others were smouldering beds of white ashes. All around these fires lay soldiers in their blankets, and near them were long lines of stacked muskets. Close by the tent was a score or more of horses, some lying down, and some standing with drooping heads, as if asleep. Near them lay saddles and blankets, and among them, here and there, were sabres whose steel scabbards reflected a gleam from some adja- cent camp-fire. Directly in front of the tent, and beneath a group of trees, slumbered four or five men, whose uniforms, revealed from beneath their blankets, showed them to be officers. With his head pillowed upon his saddle, I recognized the ten- der, compassionate, boyish face of my conductor of the day before. His countenance lay upturned, and, while its predominant expression was that of se- renity, there yet seemed to rest upon it a shadow, as if of a coming fate, 148 Army and Other Sketches. I have but little more to relate. A half an hour after, a bugle near the tent sounded revelle, and the sleeping hosts awoke to life and activity. Soon af- ter, and not till then, did I know to whom I was in- debted for what I must always believe to be a care which preserved my life, nor did he know who was the suffering civilian whom he had found alone, friend- less, and almost dying. The former was General T. E. G. Ransom. He had cared for me without know- ing anything save that I was suffering and needed assistance. He had delayed his march to accommo- date my weakness; and he had given up his own bed, and slept on the ground, without shelter, that he might administer to the comfort of an unknown sufferer. I never met that boyish face and slight form again in life. Once after, I joined a cortege which moved to a cemetery of the Garden City; and the wailing dirges of the band were but a faint reflex of the sorrow that filled my soul at the thought that the most gallant, tender, chivalrous soul of the age had taken forever its leave of earth. A DESPARADO WHO WOULD NOT STAY KILLED. N" the early part of 1862, there was a jolly and eager crowd gathered in room 45, St. Char- les Hotel, Cairo, Illinois. All, or nearly all, of them were Bohemians, who represented the majority of the newspapers of prominence in the North. There were the sedate and puritanical- looking Richardson, of the New York Tribune; the foppish exquisite, Carroll, of the Louisville Journal; the grave-visaged Matteson, of the Chicago Post; the precise and somewhat elegant Whitlaw Reid, of the Cincinnati Gazette; the acidulated and undersized " Mack," of the Cincinnati Commercial; the bluff and rotund Bodman, of the Chicago Tribune; the saintly-looking Nathan Shepherd, of the New York World; the jaundiced, but gentlemanly Coffin, of the Boston Journal; the tall and slender Lovie, of Frank Leslie; Meissner, of the Chicago Times; " Galway," of the New York Times; Simplot, of Harper's; and some others whose names do not oc- cur to me. Whenever a newspaper man registered at the St. Charles, he was assigned to 45, regardless of the number already there. As there was but two beds in the room ; and as the beds, by the utmost stretch, would never accommodate more than three respect- ively ; and as there were always from ten to twenty 150 Army and Other Sketches. in the room, — it ever happened that there was a margin of Bohemians who slept on the tables, or sought the comforts of such slumber as could be wooed from a bed of flooring and a pillow construct- ed of a carpet-bag, or the hollow of a saddle. But it was all right. He who slept on the floor the last night would retire early the next night, taking the middle of whichever bed was vacant ; for among the rules of the fraternity was one that all things except tooth-brushes were in common, and he who first gained possession of anything held it, for the time, by an inalienable right. I recall these things, not because they are precisely pertinent to what I am about to relate, but because one who dates a ay occurrence from Room 45 can not resist going over the whole ground. All about the room has a more or less intimate relation with the history of the rebellion, and is full of personal inter- est, whether one recalls the immaculate Reid, dilat- ing upon his intimacy with the family of one who has since risen to the highest judicial honors in the gift of the Republic ; or Richardson, gravely ex- pounding Buckle's History of Civilization ; or Meissner, .going to bed at midday with his boots on ; or Carroll^ arraying himself, at two o' clock in the morning, in faultless linen, and stimulating him- self with a cup of hot tea, in order to write a letter ; or little " Mack," swearing like a seven-foot pirate. There was another character there, — a slender, wiry, handsome, fresh-cheeked young man, known as Carson. He was from Chicago, was a scout in the service of Grant, and a correspondent of a news- paper. He was one of the finest-looking and brav- est young fellows that I ever knew. A Desperado ivho would not stay Killed. 151 When news was scarce, the Bohemians would sometimes accompany Carson on his scouting expe- ditions. At first he had no trouble about volunteers; but later there grew apace an unwillingness to scout with the young dare-devil, as it was found that scouting, under his lead, meant hard riding, hard knocks, and no account of odds in numbers. Hence, the eagerness to escape the tedium of no war news, finally resulted in recreations at billiards, economical draw-poker, and universal growling. One afternoon Carson burst into the room with a haste that promised somet'hing of unusual import- ance. "Now, boys," said he, in a cheery voice, " who's in for a little fun?" "Fun, h — 11!" growled the little gentleman from Cincinnati, as he rubbed carefully that portion of the human frame which usually comes in contact with the saddle. "I've had enough of your d — d fun to last me till after Lent!" Carson proceeded to buckle on his sabre, to sling a carbine over his shoulder, and to examine the caps of his navy revolver. "Come, boys, it's only a little scout over into Missouri, — a short ride, not much danger, and plenty of fun. Come, now, who'll go?" " Not any for me!" " I've had a piece of that!" " I'll see you about it in the fall!" " Go to thunder with your plenty of fun!" " One charge of buckshot in my blanket now!" Such were the remarks that greeted Carson's invi- tation, with a score of others that I have forgotten. The only one who said nothing was myself. I had but lately reached Cairo, and having never been out 152 Army and Other Sketches. with him, I had a strong desire to go. Accordingly, I announced my intention. It was greeted with a roar of laughter and ironical sympathy and con- gratulation. "Bully youth!" " Good-bye, old fellow! Where do you want your remains sent?" "Don't get ahead of Carson in a charge, will you?" And so on. Nevertheless, I persisted in my deter- mination, and, an hour later, we had been ferried over to Bird's Point, had passed through Dick Oglesby's command, and were hurrying on our way, at a gallop, through the mud and water of an ex- ecrable road that led through the timber across the Mississippi " bottom." Besides Carson and my- self, there were two soldiers. All of us were well mounted, and, save myself, all were armed with sabre, revolver, and carbine. The mud soon grew so deep that a gallop became impossible. We there- fore fell into a walk, and it was now, for the first time, that I was put in possession of the object of the expedition. I will give the substance of what Carson told me, using my own, instead of his vigor- ous language. The vast, swampy region opposite Cairo, in Mis- souri, was occupied by Jeff Thompson. He was no- where when sought for, and everywhere when not wanted. He committed no great amount of dam- age, save that he kept Cairo, the base of our future operations down the Mississippi and up the Cumber- land and Tennessee rivers, infested with spies, who accurately informed the rebel commanders at Colum- bus, and in eastern Kentucky, of Grant's probable intentions. A Desperado ivho would not stay Killed. 153 On that morning a noted bushwhacker, whose person and habits were well known in Cairo, had been seen near Grant's headquarters. A search had been made for him, but he had suddenly disappeared. Some information of his haunts had been communi- cated to Grant, and Carson had been started across the river, with the hope that he might be intercepted at a certain point, a settlement some twelve miles from Bird's Point. As I was further informed, this man was a noted desperado, and was the hero of a hundred personal fights, in which he was generally the victor. He had killed a half-dozen men outright, and had maimed and mortally injured many others, until he had become the terror of the region which he in- habited. Several attempts had been made to kill him, but, in nearly every case, with a disatrous re- sult to those attempting it. He seemed to bear a charmed life. He had been " cut to pieces" in a half-dozen fights, and yet, in a week or two, he was around again, as well, as quarrelsome, and as dang- erous as ever. It was related that a man whom he had a quarrel with, had waylaid him one night, and had discharg- ed a heavy load of buckshot into him. The assassin fled as he saw his opponent fall heavily from his horse. His horror may be imagined when, the next time he ventured into town and into the village gro- cery, he found his enemy at the bar, and taking a drink with the gusto of a man uninjured by buck- shot or bullets. At another time, he was found dead drunk upon an immense hollow log, a short distance into the country. The opportunity was too good to be lost, and so a fire was kindled in the log, just beneath him, and he was left fco his fate. He 154 Army and Other Sketches. lay there and broiled until, as was asserted, one. whole side of him "was burnt to a cinder;" and yet, a few weeks afterwards, he was around, appa- rently as hearty as ever. These and a dozen similar incidents were related by Carson, and the effect was very far from mak- ing me pleased with the prospect. Nevertheless, it was too late to retreat, and I kept on hoping the best, yet fearing the worst. The settlement which we were approaching, was the one in which resided this desperado. It was supposed that he had gone home to spend the night, and that we should find him there at any time be- fore daylight the next morning, when he would probably leave for the headquarters of Thompson. By Carson's orders, we made a wide detour, and thereby avoided the little town where our prey was waiting. Carson was thoroughly acquainted with the country ; and so well did he conduct us that, without meeting a human being, or passing a house, we reached, about nine o'clock, a road that led into the town, and which road was exactly opposite the one by which we had left Bird's Point. In other words, the town was between us and Cairo, and we were upon the road that led from the town to the point supposed to be occupied by Jeff. Thompson. Our man would approach along this road, and hence we were sure of meeting him, if the supposition were correct that he would spend the night with his family. We moved up to within a mile of the settlement, and then halted at a deserted log-house. The horses were hitched behind the building, without having their bridles or saddles taken off; and every disposi- tion was made for instant movement. We took A Desperado who would not stay Killed. 155 turns in watching the road, while the ones not on duty wrapped themselves in blankets and slept. Daylight came without there having occurred any thing of note. We waited until sunrise, and then mounted and moved toward the town. Carson swore savagely under the impression that our man had taken some other route. The road led up a gentle ascent to a broad table- land, upon which the little settlement was located. We proceeded at a walk until we reached the brow of the ascent, and the place became visible. It was a collection of a dozen or so rough houses, built around a square. Three horses were hitched in front of a small building. The moment Carson caught sight of the animals, he exclaimed: " There's his horse, by G — !" At the same instant, he drove his spurs into his beast, and shot forward like an arrow. Just then, three men issued from the building, and, attracted by the clatter of hoofs, they turned towards us, and then, with incredible quickness, they threw the reins over their horses' necks, and leaped into the saddles. One of them swerved to the left, another to the right, and the third went like the wind on the road to Cairo. Carson seemed to only see this man, and followed directly after him. I followed Carson. I happened to be well-mounted, and had no diffi- culty in keeping within sight of the chase. The ani- mal ridden by the man whom we were pursuing was a splendid beast; but its muddy appearance and rough coat indicated a long journey. However, both Carson and myself gained on the rider, slowly, but perceptibly. 156 Army and Other Sketches. The road ran across a table-land, and then de- scended gently for a long distance, till it reached the muddy tk bottom." We had not descended more than half the road to the bottom, when Carson had gained upon the pur- sued until he was within thirty paces. At this in- stant he called in a resolute voice: "Halt!" For a reply, the man wheeled in his saddle, and fired a shot from a revolver. I heard the whiz of of the bullet as it went over my head. The next moment, I saw a puff of smoke from Carson's pistol. There was a sharp report, and, at the same instant, I saw the butternut coat of the pursued give a sudden flap in the centre of his back, accompanied by the rise of a little cloud of dust. But the bushwacker rode on. Carson was closing with him rapidly, and I was some ten or fifteen paces in the rear of the latter. I saw Carson return his revolver to his belt, and draw his sabre. His horse's head now lapped the flanks of the other. He brought his sabre to a charge. " Halt ! will you?" he thundered. The man rode on. In an instant Carson drove his sabre forward. It entered somewhere near the right shoulder-blade, and passed completely through the body. The next moment, the man reeled wildly, and then, with a vain effort to grasp the mane of his horse, he tumbled heavily to the ground. A minute later, we had checked our horses, and had reined up beside the fallen man. He lay on his face ; blood reddened his lips ; his eyes rolled fear- A Desperado who ivould not stay Killed. 157 fully ; and he gasped as if throttled by a strong hand. "It's all up with him this time," said Carson, as he dismounted. " However, I'll make sure, and put him out of his misery." He pulled out his revolver, and, holding it a couple of inches away from, and directly over, the prostrate man's heart, he fired. There was a quick convulsion of the frame, and the bearded, fierce-looking spy, with his long, unkempt hair, lay motionless. Carson searched the body, and found a paper con- cealed in the lining of his slouch-hat. Upon it was some highly important information concerning our forces, and contemplated movements. Leaving the still rebel where he had fallen, we continued our route to Cairo, knowing that the body would be attended to by friends who would follow to learn the result of the pursuit. About five weeks later, I was at the landing when the ferry-boat came over from Bird's Point. Some butternut suits attracted my attention, and, upon looking closer, I saw a squad of a half-dozen bush- whackers, who were marched ashore, under guard of some Federal soldiers. I looked curiously at them as they passed. One of them was a burly, un- couth-looking ruffian. His face was deadly pale, and his eyes bloodshot ; but, despite this, I recog- nized in an instant, in the peculiar countenance, the bushy beard, and long hair, the desperado whom Carson had sabred, and twice shot through the body. He appeared but little the worse for his treat- ment ; and, so far as I know, he is yet alive, and as impervious as ever to steel, fire or revolver. 158 Army and Other Sketches. I have only to add that this account is substan- tially a true one, as may be proved by scores who were in Cairo in 1862. AMONG THE GUERRILLAS. HERE were a good many very respectable men who took a deep interest in the late \§p6 J & war. Among them were some — in fact, no eP small number — who demonstrated their inter- est not by shouldering a musket, or buckling on a sabre, but by gathering up such articles of value as were scattered in the crash of things, and the universal spilling, overflowing, and confusion that prevailed wherever there were any operations. Among these there was a class who may be termed gleaners. They followed in the track of the oppos- ing forces, and carefully raked up any little thing which might prove to be of value. Those gentle- men who charged themselves with the pleasing task of gathering up abandoned plantations, were among those gleaners. Some of them got rich by it. A good many of them did not. Messrs. John Marsh, and George McLeland re- solved some time during the closing years of the war, to go into the gleaning business. Both were and are Illinoisans. The former is fat and a little lame. The other is immensely thin and a good deal deaf. Both were rich, but both wanted more. Thereupon each of them had their respective checks cashed for a few thousand dollars. Putting a clean shirt apiece in their carpet-sacks, they bade adieu 160 Army and Other Sketches. to their weeping families and embarked on a steamer at Rock Island, and started southward. Of the tremendous perils which these two glean- ers experienced in getting to Helena, it would be harrowing to speak in detail. The number of times they weren't shot at by prowling bushwhackers, se- creted behind wood-piles, on the levees, was beyond computation. Probably several hundred would be a very low estimate. Both laid low, and were prepared for vigorous dodging in case of an attack. McLeland usually occupied a horizontal position, with his head point- ing to one shore, and his feet to the other, under the belief that he thus presented the smallest possible mark for a rebel rifleman. Mr. John Marsh, who was about as thick when lying as when standing, was unpleasantly situated. He proposed to his com- panions that he (Marsh) ought to have two-thirds of the profits, as he, owing to his size, ran two-thirds of the danger. To which McLeland, being stingy as well as thin, declined to accede. And thereupon arose a slight coolness between the whilom friends. Beautiful Helena was at length reached, and soon after, a corpulent traveler, with a carpet-sack and a slight limp, and an enormously tall man with a car- pet-sack and a sole-leather countenance, might have been seen ascending the romantic levee in search of quarters. A week later, the same two individuals were in- stalled as lessees of a thriving, productive, and ad- mirably situated plantation. And now began the business. Contrabands by the score were obtained from the depot, in the propor- tion of three obese negresses, eleven children, clad Among the Guerillas. 161 at the rate of one shirt to the dozen, five dogs, and one lame mule, to each able-bodied negro. Thus, the getting together say twenty able-bodied Africans involved the assembling of almost a thousand other things, including old negroes and pickaninies, feather-beds and dodger kettles, and other traps and paraphernalia without limit, and sufficient to start a good-sized city. Messrs. Marsh and McLeland being philanthropic, were kindly disposed to all these arrivals. They opened primary schools, in which the young nig- gers were taught not to chew tobacco, and en- couraged to stand on their heads, or to execute a break-down. All the old aunties of the settlement came in for much good instruction from these kindly old men. They were put under a gentle course of instruction, whose main feature was their duty to get back to Helena by the first conveyance, in order not to pro- duce a scarcity in the provender of bacon and meal laid in by Messrs. Marsh and McLeland. With the delightful tractability of the docile African, the good old aunties heard and concluded to — stay, which they did. And thus things went on under the new rule. The crop was put in. Save an occasional accident, in which the bulky Marsh sat down on a young darkey, to the great discomfort of the latter, or the lengthy McLeland broke his head in trying to get into a negro shanty, the world went well with them. The cotton came in green beauty, and already had the gleaners figured up the number of bales, the profits thereon, and the pecuniary results, which were divi- ded m imagination. 162 Army and Other Sketches. But a crisis was approaching these two good men with the swift noiselessness of a prowling tiger. Their plantations were outside the lines. With infinite difficulty had each of them broken himself to riding a mule. McLeland had the best luck in the operation. His length of legs enabled him to stand over a mule as the Colossus of Khodes bestrode the passing ships. When he wished to ride he widened his lower extremities and the mule was backed under by a nigger ; then he lowered himself a trifle, drew up his knees to his chin, and was mounted. When the mule was refractory and be- gan to plunge, then the rider simply lowered his feet till they touched the ground. And then the mule walked off. Mr. John Marsh had more difficulty. No small mule could carry him, and no large mule would carry him. Thereupon he was reduced to an ancient animal which was too stiff to rear, and too old to kick. Him he mounted, after many attempts. In time, by holding tight to the mane, he could retain his position. Experience made him bold, and he finally became a most daring rider. If the mule did not lower his head and stop suddenly, he would ride from Helena to the plantation without once falling off. One gentle afternoon the two companions mount- ed their prancing steeds and started for the planta- tion. They passed the pickets at a tremendous rate., and entered the open country. Each had in his belt some thousands of dollars in greenbacks. They were armed to the teeth. McLeland had a formidable jack-knife, while about the waist of Marsh was buckled a revolver, three inches in length, Among the Guerillas. 163 and which had been loaded only some two years pre- vious. Thus armed, what cared they for the fact that a force of guerrillas had been seen, the day be- fore, but a few miles away? Marsh wouldn't have given a cent over a thousand dollars to have been safe in his Illinois home. McLeland wouldn't have raised the amount over 100 per cent, to have been in the same place. And thus darkly musing, they rode valorously on, keeping a vigilant out-look over their shoulders. And now the crisis was upon them. It took the shape of a squad of butternuts who suddenly reined up before them and menaced them with huge horse-pistols and colossal shot-guns. McLeland saw them, lowered his feet to the ground, backed from off his mule, and prepared for instantaneous fight. Marsh tried to get off his mule in order to flee into Hepsidam, or anywhere else, but there being no nigger handy, he was unable to dismount without assistance. A butternut planted himself before McLeland, and cut off his retreat. They were penned ! " Hand over !" came in stern accents from the ruf- fianly leader. After much searching in various pockets, Marsh found a plug of tobacco, which he sorrowfully passed to the brigand. Then he sought long and earnestly, and fished out a pocket-comb. " Take it," said he, in a sad tone, " 'tis all I have. I am now a broken, ruined old man !" 'You be d — d !" roared the ruffian. "Come, out with yer stamps !" Again did the sorrowing Marsh investigate his clothes. Infinite search produced a shirt-button, a dirty collar, and a hymn-book. "There, unfeeling 164 Army and Other Sketches. wretch, is me all ! Take them, and let me go away and die !" " Look here, old hoss, if you don't shell out some greenbacks, I'll " Just then there was heard the clank of sabres and the clatter of horses' feet. "Yanks, by G — ! Skedaddle, boys;" and so say- ing the butternuts drove the spurs into their horses, and, in a twinkling, had disappeared in the timber. "What's the matter?" inquired McLeland, whose deaf ears had not taken in a word of the conversa- tion. Robbers," was the reply roared into his organ of hearing. "Robbers! Oh Lord! Robbers!" and just then he caught sight of an approaching dust, in which could be seen the outlines of horses and riders. " Rob- bers," he roared; "there they come again! Oh dear !" He looked wildly about for a refuge. A little way off he saw a shanty about which were grouped some Africans. Hope awoke in his breast. Fiercely he tugged at his clothing. He tore open his vest, he unbuckled his money belt, he flew to the negroes, and throwing them the belt, he said: "Men and brethren, keep this for me till the rob- bers pass." They seized upon it and said, "Thanks, masser." And then he strode back, and awaited with calm resignation the approach of the robbers. They came up. They were a company of Federal scouts in search of guerrillas. Their leader was the friend of Mr. Marsh and Mr. McLeland. They were rejoiced to see him. They told him their heart-rending adven- ture. Among the Guerrillas. 165 And then the Federals pushed on the trail of the guerrillas. And then Mr. McLeland went and claimed his money belt from the faithful Africans. The faithful Africans were not where he left them. Nor at any other place which he has been able to discover from that day to the present time. A broken-hearted old man, named McLeland, or something like it, now passes a sad existence at the lovely village of Geneseo, in this State. He has a mournful experience to relate of cotton worms, of failure in cotton planting, and of the loss of $10,000 which he had in a money-belt. Mr. John Marsh has country quarters at Elgin. He is still portly, a little lame, and given to relating the miraculous adventures which* he once passed through in cotton planting below Helena. UNCLE TAMES AND THE BULL. n f a-g, tf ecX ^AVING successfully exhibed all the various suits of clothing in my family party, and finding my finances getting low, in conse- quence of responding to the appeals for pecun- iary aid of the gentlemanly landlord with whom I resided, I concluded to hunt a cheaper locality. When one leaves Magara or Saratoga, after a lengthened sojourn, his most natural destin- ation is a poor-house. But it was not in search of a poor-house that I came hitherward. I am not disposed to slander Vermont hospitality with any such remark. If a man who has been stopping a few weeks at Magara or Saratoga can not get admittance to a poor-house, the next best thing he can do is to "take" the bankrupt act. A receipted hotel-bill from either of these places will be accepted by any bankrupt-commissioner as final evidence of remedi- less poverty. It ought to procure his discharge with- out further difficulty. To get to Vermont from Saratoga, one goes to Whitehall, and thence to Rutland. Between the two places, the Vermont line is crossed. I knew we had crossed it by the coming on the train of a stranger who sat down by me, and commenced an acquaintance by inquiring where I was going, how long I was going to stay, where I came from, what Uncle James and the Bull, 167 the price of butter was when I left, and whether I knew Deacon Doggett, who lived out in Illinois. From Rutland to Burlington, one passes a few handsome villages and some rocks. There is a great variety of the latter. They are piled up to immense heights. A little timber is scattered over them, and some grass grows here and there among the crevices. Here these crevices are fenced in, and are called pastures. All the cattle that pasture on these crevi- ces are rigged out with brakes, without which they could not get down the hills. My present stopping- place is at the foot of the Green Mountains, a few miles east of Burlington. The country is primitive, and there are some rocks here. The inhabitants are distinguished for longev- ity, hospitality, radicalism, asthma, the use of pat- ent medicines, and for being pervaded with an in^ sane idea that this portion of Vermont is the loca- tion of the original Eden. A man of note in this vicinity has from 50 to 100 cows, 600 acres of land, a span of No. 1 horses, two fancy sheep, and a sugar-orchard. A man who has all these may run for the Assembly if he pleases, or be a deacon in the Church. Real estate hereabouts is mostly rocks set up on edge, with grassy crevices for the cows. A Ver- mont cow understands herself. She can climb rocks like a squirrel, and she gets fat and gives twelve quarts of milk from feed that is not visible to any thing less than a microscope of forty diameters. Uncle James, with whom I am stopping, has a bull and the phthisic. Yesterday the bull got in the orchard, and Uncle James, accompanied by his phthisic and a big gad, went down to drive the bull out. 168 Army and Other Sketches. Now, what I am about to demonstrate is, that, in a race, it depends a good deal upon who is ahead. I sat at the window and timed the little dash. At the send-off, the bull led Uncle James and the gad about two lengths. Up to the first quarter, the gait was moderate. Uncle James steadily gained on the bull, until, at the first quarter, the gad just lapped the bull from head to tail. At this precise point, they disappeared behind the rise of ground, the bull just neck and neck with the gad, Uncle James one length behind the bull. The second and third quarters of the track were hidden behind the rise of ground. The fourth quar- ter, or home-stretch, was plainly visible from where I sat; and I awaited their appearance with thrilling anxiety. In about five minutes, they rounded the turn and emerged on the home-stretch. Uncle James was ahead. The bull was about eighteen inches behind, and gaining. The gad was nowhere visible. The gait was terriffic. Uncle James had his head over one shoulder. The bull had his head close to the ground. Uncle James' gait was a mixture of trot, lope, and stumble. The bull was on a clean gallop, with his tail as straight up as a liberty pole. It was a beautiful burst of speed. Nothing like it was ever seen. They neared the come-out at a three- minute gait. It was almost a dead heat. As Uncle James went over the wire — a stone wall — the bull's horns were neatly interwoven with his coat-tails. Uncle James won by a bare length, which he meas- ured on the other side of the fence. In comparing the merits of the two, I should state that, while the bull has the most wind, Uncle James has the most bottom. Uncle James and the Bull. 169 Summary. — Race around the orchard; single-dash, — best one in two: Uncle James, ----- 1 Bull, 2 Gad, - Distanced First quarter, -------- 3^ minutes Second and third quarters, ------ Unknown Fourth quarter, 1 min. 28 sec. You see we have our little amusements here as well as you do in Chicago. The other day a party of us went up on Mansfield mountain. This mountain is a swelling in the Green Mountains, and is a place of fashionable resort from Boston. Almost every young lady whom I saw up in the mountain wore spectacles, and quoted Emer- son when she was about to ask a servant for some more beans. To go up Mansfield mountain, you take a vehi- cle as far as you can, and then ride a horse the re- mainder of the way. The vehicular part of the route is pleasant, especially if you have good company. Good company as I understand it, means somebody of the opposite sex. The horse part of the journey is not so pleasant. An equestrian riding up the outside of the walls of the court-house in Chicago, would be somewhat like riding a horse up Mansfield mountain — only less so. Of the two, the mountain is the steeper, and the as- cent more dangerous and difficult. A man who rides up, and doesn't anathematize himself for being a jackass for undertaking the trip, has no proper appreciation of himself or his sur- roundings. After what seems a couple of weeks or so, one gets to the top. Then, if one has an overcoat and a fur collar, the affair becomes pleasant. Seated by a 170 Army and Other Sketches. good fire, in the cozy hotel at the summit, with a good cigar and a bottle of ale, one can enjoy him- self as well as though he were at home. If one admires them, he can go out, stand in the wind, and catch cold and views of the surrounding country. The view one gets is fine, but imperfect owing to the fact that Chicago is not visible. There was a good deal of Boston company at the hotel. The ladies wore spectacles and thick shoes, and spent their time, when in-doors, in disputing over woman's mission, and, when out-doors, in chip- ping the rocks for geological specimens. Sometimes they varied these occupations by grim metaphysical flirtations with attendant gentlemen. Coming down the mountain is the same as going up, except that you see a bottomless abyss over your horse's head, whereas in going up you saw it over his tail. A fall either way would amount to the same thing in the end. People who' live at a distance, and can not go up Mansfield mountain, can experience the same sensa- tion by riding a horse along a narrow gutter on a six-story house. There is no more danger in the effort, and it is less expensive. Vermont is a fine state in the way of rocks, cheese factories, pretty girls, and antique old gentlemen of ninety. One house where I visited had four gen- erations living in it. Some other houses have five. As near as I can learn, they don't die in this vicinity. When a man gets to be a hundred or so, they bury him alive. The productions of the state are various. Blooded sheep, costing originally $2 per head, are sold often for $2,500. The maple-sugar here is different from what we get in Chicago. So are the milk, and the Uncle James and the Bull. 171 butter, and the cheese. Making cheese is a staple business. There is usually a cheese-factory at every four corners, with a pretty woman or two slopping around in the whey. Occasionally one sees some rocks. Upon these rocks there are some more rocks, and some others upon them, Upon the whole of them, there are, usually, some rocks. Sometimes one finds upon the top of all this pile some more rocks. They have a breed of animals here known as kaows. The kaow has horns and a tail, and gives milk without water in it. The kaow is a very useful animal. Almost all the old people hereabouts have a sec- ond growth of hair and a third set of teeth. They are experimenting upon two or three specimens, to see how long they will live. Two of them are yet hale and active, but they are so old that every body has forgotten how old they are. One of them lost a beloved grandchild of 101, who went West on a pleasure trip, and got snapped up by a western fever. There are a good many other things that I would like to describe. None of the girls chew gum. They give a man more at a meal here than one gets in a week at a first-class hotel any where else. A square meal here includes warm biscuits, cold bread, pork and beans, butter, cheese, four kinds of sauce, three kinds of cake, "punkin"pie, apple pie, "punkin" pie, grape pie, "punkin" pie, and "punkin" pie. Their " punkin " pie beats the world. Besides these articles, there are half a dozen others, all equally good. SOME RECOLLECTIONS OF ALLA- TOONA. HE battle of Allatoona has never been written up as it deserves. The few histo- (cpf^ rians who have arisen since the close of the