'^A v^^ "^A V^ v^^ '-^ ..e*-' "'^:.-. ■.^' ^ v-^ "^^ V^' .0-. X^^' <^/^- ^^" ''^^ .Oo. ,^^ ''^^^ <^, -. ,,X'' '^A .^' ^<^ V X •r. '/- « 'A ,j> aV >"^ '- « ^0 '^^"'^-^ ,0o " o'?-' ,0^ ^ .^ .A- cP- ^^. ' * K O ' /X' ,0 "» " 'S £>' -i . 'o , .* ^^ x~^^^ C^' <-.'5* V \0 o. ,'^ .^•-^.. .0^ 'fim^^J' % aO o » A. ■«• .A ^ ^1^ -^i. A ,0- -o^ -»> - V » o . '-^^ ,0 o. ;% ■x^^' % .-5> ♦, o.. ■Vv .x\^ WANDEEINGS IN THE WESTERN LAND. LONDON : f.lLBElfl' AND KIVINGTON, I'lilNTERS, ST. John's square. WANDERINGS IN THE WESTERN LAND. o-- By ArPENDARVES VIVIAN, M.P., F.G.S. ' Go ye, and look upon that land, That far vast land that few behold. And none, beholding:, understand ; That old, old land, which men call new, That land as old as time is old. ' Go, journey \v'ith the seasons through Its wastes, and learn how limiDless, How shoreless lie the distances, Before you come to question this. Or dare to dream what grandeur is." Joachim Mii.lee. WITH ILLUSTRATIONS FROM ORIGINAL SKETCHES BY MR. ALBERT BIER8TADT AND THE AUTHOR, HonOon : SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE, & RIVINGTON, CROWN BUILDINGS, 183, FLEET STREET. 1879. [-4// rights reserved.^ INTEODUCTION. In the following pages I have endeavoured to record the recollections of a few months' wanderings in North America, spent chiefly in " hunting " in the Rocky Mountains. My principal objects in making the trip were to obtain a thorough change of scene, and to see something of a country of which we have all heard so much. I make no claim to havinsf done or seen more than any one else could have done, having the same time and means at their disposal, and possessed of the same keenness for sport as myself. I believe, however, that I was "in luck on the hunt;" at least, I am told so by some well able to judge. I would endeavour at once to disarm adverse criticism, by acknowledging numerous faults, per- ceptible even to myself, and by pleading very broken leisure for writing. My main object has been to describe in a plain, unvarnished manner the lead- ing incidents of a short but very enjoyable run to regions many parts of which are within easy reach of eill. vi Iiitrodiiction. I must record my sense of the general courtesy wliicli I experienced tlirougliout, with scarcely an exception ; even the rough western men, the hardy sons of the Indian frontier, accustomed from boyhood to fighting for existence, were hospitable and generous to a degree hard to find in more civilized life. I have availed myself of the admirable reports of the Surveys of the United States Government, not only to confirm my own observations, but to supply information when I have been unable from any cause to speak from personal experience. In conclusion, one word of thanks to my old friend and brother sportsman, Lord Aberdare, who most promptly and kindly consented to wade through my manuscript, and gave me the benefit of his most valuable advice. For many of the woodcuts I am indebted to my friend Mr. Bierstadt, that true delineator of nature's beauties in the Western Land, who most courteously placed his original oil sketches at my disposal. A. PENDARVES VIVIAN. 7, Belgrave Square, London, Jalij, 1879. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. PAGE Voyage out — St. Jobn's, Newfoundland — Inhabitants — Country — Sporting — Trade — Mining — Passage to Halifax — CapeEace — Prench Islands — Sable Island — Halifax : Approach, Situation, Environs, Fortifications, Defenders ........ 1 CHAPTER II. Start for the Hunt — Outfitting and Outfit — Railroad Cars and Conductors — The Intercolonial System — Canadian Forests — Waste by Fires — Causes — Legislation — Spring Hill — Coal Mine— New Line — Cumberland County — Settlers — Varieties of Timber — Maple Sugar- making ......... 14 CHAPTER III. After Bear — My Indian Hunter — Woodcraft — Ferocity of the Bear — Our first Camp — Camp-making — Food — Sleep— Stillness — Unsuccessful Hunting — The Moose — Close Time — Legislation — Cause of Scarcity — Modes of Hunting — " Snow-shoe-running " — A successful " Creep "— " Calling " and Mosquitoes ... 26 viii Contents. CHAPTEli IV. PAGE Saint John's, N.B.— The late Fire— Extent— Suffering- Destruction of Property — The Night following — Eelief — Incidents — Energy of Inhabitants — The St. John's Eiver — Eeminiscences ofthe Past— Eredericton Cathe- dral — Houses of Representatives — Members — Business — The Lumber Trade and Lumber Men ... 42 CHAPTER V. Start for our canoeing Trip — Indian Birchbark Canoes — Disaster — Across to the Head-waters of the Miramichi — Glashville — Hardships of its early Settlers — Gray's Mill — McEwing's — Afloat — Beaver — Bear Incident — Camp-making in the Dark — Slow Progress — Shoalness of Water — Signboard —Thunderstorm — A miserable Night — Old Gabe — Capsized — Construction of Canoes — Lake Miramichi — A charming Camp — "Moose call- ing " — " Caribou Creeping " — A successful Stalk — A grand Beast — The Caribou — Two Varieties — Colour — Habits— Scarcity — En route again — Daily Life — Beauty of Banks — Burnt Hill — Fishing — Mosquitoes — Blackflies —Remedies — Picnic Party — Boiestovvn — Rod-fishing — The " Great Miramichi Eire " — Extent and Sufferings — Indian Town — Shooting a Rapid — Renous— AVhite trout Eishing — Waste of Timber — Lumber-men — Newcastle — End of Canoe Trip . . 57 CHAPTER VI. On the Rail — Quebec— Situation — History — Wolfe's Vic- tory — Citadel — Garrison — Falls of Montmorency — Afloat again — Montreal — The Lachine Rapids — Toronto— Niagara — The Falls and Surroundings — A perilous Voyage— Fascination of the Locality . . 83 CHAPTER VI r. Hamilton — Detroit— Chicago --Population — Trade — Away again — Across tlie Continent — Omaha — Buildings — Contents. ix PAGE Indians — Population — " Then Westward ho ! " — The Union Pacific Eailroad — History and Construction — The Prairie — The Old Emigrant lioad — Early Way- farers — " Bones that bleach in the Sunshine " — Indian Attacks — Train Eobbery — Cattle — Their Owners and Attendants — The Prairie Dog — Cheyenne — History — • " Stage tapping "^ — The Blackhills of Dakotah — Indians and their Eeservatious — The Denver Pacific Line — Greely — Denver. . . . . . . .100 CHAPTER VIII. Eu route for Estes Park — Golden — Mining and Smelting — Lignitic formation — Metalliferous Lodes— Mr. Hill's AVorks — Miners and their Wages — Boulder City — The Caribou Lode — Longmount — Its Disagreeables — To Estes Park— Beauty of Scenery — The Park — Bad Luck — Griffith Evans — Unwelcome Visitors — The Skunk War — Peculiarities of the Enemy — Cold Weather — Unsuccessful Hunting — Camps in Horse-Shoe Park — Attempts to cross the Eange — The Black Canon — Storm — A high Camp — Poor Prospects — "A Bear, by Jove ! " — A Miss — A long Chase — Success at last — '■ Ursus ferox " — Driven back — More storming — Start for Ivock Creek — Fogg's — jNTariauna — Off the Track — Fort Collins — La Porte — Jim Baker — Character and "Grit." 12G CHAPTER IX. Geology — Of the Mountains, Foothills, and Prairies — Fertility — Irrigation — Water Supply — Herds of Cattle— A Load of Deer— The Fork's Hotel— The Old Cherokee Trail — Laramie Plain — Singenborger ■ Kanche — The Laramie River — A shooting Case — " Wild Bill " — Crossing the Divide — Antelope — A Kill — The Prong-horn — Old Man Pinkham's — A Day's Contents. PAGE Hunting — Success — A Timber Wolf — Their Cunning — A Bear story — North Park — Physical and Geo- logical — Massacre on Independence Mountains — Bad Storm— A "Wolverine 159 CHAPTEE X. L.'s departure — After Elk — On the track — A Shot — " He's hit" — A fruitless hunt — A deserted Camp — Loneli- ness — Move Camp — A Porcupine — " Ned's " Punish- ment — Another Move — "Played out" — A hunter's Cabin — Its Occupants — A strange Night — Curly Eogers — A Wapiti's " roar " — A fine Sight — A " boss bull"— The Stalk— Bad Luck— A Trudge Home- Loss of Ponies — -Unsuccessful Tracking — A severe Day — Bear Trap — Wapiti again — Meat at last — After Bulls — A View — Too late — Eide Home — Touched vrith the Erost — At the Bulls again — A successful Stalk — "A right and left" — A fine Head — A mys- terious Camp-fire — Another Beast — Packing to Camp — Danger from Snow — " On the Move " — " Whiskey Jacks"— Awful Day— The Eose Eamily— The "Old Man's" again — The AVapiti— Change of Outfit — Up the Park — Solitary Hunt— Successful Issue — Search for Quarters — Night in a Waggon — The Indian Ques- tion ISO CHAPTER XI. The Log Cabin — Eeturn to Pinkham's — Encampment on the Platte — More Wapiti — Bad Hunting — Disagree- able Adventure — Independence Mountain — The deserted Cabin — Sad History — After Bison — "Drummer" — A spoiled Stalk — No Luck — The Mountain Bison — Magnificent Scenery — Doleful Prog- nostications — Encouraging Gossip — " Back tracks " — ■ Indian Experiences — " Bill Wales " — Old Quarters —On the Move— A Puma's " Cache "—The Beast himself — Excitiner Hunt — " He's our meat "^ — Great Contents. xi joy— A severe Walk — On Beaver Creek — A wounded Wapiti — " Curly's " Misbehaviour — Awful Weather — A red-letter Day — Almost a Tragedy — Hunting for " Griff" — N'ed's "Sport" — Men's amusement — Cloth- ing — Stimulants — A welcome Return .... 220 CHAPTER XII. Move of Camp — " Grand Encampment" — A curious Cha- racter — An improved Climate — More Antelope — -After Sheep — No Luck — Jack Watkins — Cold Weather — Snow Blindness — Sage Hens — A disagreeable Incident — The Mountain Sheep or Big Horn — Wild Scenery — Austin's — A hungry Coyote — More Storming — Griflfs Tumble — An Altercation — Awkward Position — A fine Canon — Near Game — A "Sight" at last — Bad Luck— " Consolation Steaks" — A Bear story — A Mountain Lion's Den — On the Move — Sage Bush — An Adventure — A curious Shakedown — Branding Cattle — Wyoming Fertility — Tim Foley — A solitary Eide — A Ke-union — Independence Rock — Indians — The Sioux — Arrapahoes and Utes .... 252 CHAPTER XIII. After Buftalo — An Indian Trail — " After hair " — A Scare — A family Party — ^Bad Advice — " Horse Creek " Camp — The Rattlesnake Eauge — " Buffaloes" — A good Stalk — " Right and left " — True Bronchos — Spoiled Meat— More Buffalo — An exciting day — The Buffiilo — Ferocity — Modes of hunting — Scarcity — Its causes — Wanton Slaughter and sinful Waste — Probable Ex- tinction — Legislation ...... 282 CHAPTER XIV. Back for the Sweet-water— Bad camp — An Alkali Lake — Loss of Stock — Planted — A Broncho hanged — A " Cache " — After Sheep — A disagreeable Adventure — "Lost" — A hard Time — A Welcome Outline — Back once more — Foot-note . . . . . .301 xii Contents, CHAPTER XY. Sheep once more — New Companions— George Ferries — A good Eanche — Hopes of Sport — A Stalker's get-up — An exciting Day — The " heart-shaped " Tracks — A Eace with the sheep — Beaten — " Creeping the Ledges " — A Plair-trigger — My last Chance gone — Indepen- dence Eock again — A lucky Lift — Sand Creek — The Perries Mines — To Eawlings — Cheery Companions — Brown's Canon — ^A "one-horse" Town — Topography of the Western Country — Train Life — The Con- tinental Divide — Green Eiver — Evanston — Lignite: its Geological Position — Utah — Echo and Weber Canons — Ogden — Shoshone Indians — Humboldt County — Battle Mountain — Summit of the Sierra — Beautiful Scenery — The American Eiver — The AVes- tern Slope — Sacramento — San Francisco — Beautiful Position— The Palace Hotel— The Seal Eocks— Unique Sight— The Streets— The Hoodlum— The Chinese Question — Climate — Drainage — The Eain- fall— California as a Mining State — Bullion Produc- tion — Agriculture — Fertility — Exportation— AVool — Wine — Fish — Deer — Small game — Future. . . 317 CHAPTER XVI. Trip to the Tosemite— Position of the Valley — Bad Time of Year — Merced — Miserable Conveyance — Horaitos — Gold Mining — Different Systems — "Eebellious" Ores — Geological Occurrence of gold Veins — The Foothills of the Sierra Nevada — Nature's Garden — The Mari- posa Estate — A curious History—" Making time " — " More haste, worse speed" — A Disaster — A crowded " House " — " A shooting case " — American Law-courts — System of Judge-making — Its Eesults . . . 3i8 CHAPTEE XVI I. Start from Mariposa — Vexatious Delays — Eoute — Plite's Mine — A romantic Story — Change of Vegetation — Dr. Brewer's Eeport — A lovely Evening— Clarke's Contents. xiii PAGE Eanclie — Late arrival — The Mariposa Big Trees — Na- ture's Arboretum — Colossal Growths — " Cockney " Practices — Probable Age- — Ride into the Valley — Snow once more — A lucky Shot — My Bag — Better Weather — Inspiration Point — Magnificent View — "Quite a stone "—The Valley— Liedig's Hotel— A doubtful Pleasure — The Yoseniite Fall — Back Tracks — Frisco once more ....... 30(5 CHAPTEE XVIIT. A Chapter on Mining — Off for the Comstock — The Carson Valley — Virginia City — The " Boss of the Bonauza " — The Comstock Ledge — General Character — The Con- solidated Virginia and California Mines — Excessive Heat — Impurity of Water — Extensive Output — Great value — Miners — Their AVages — Cost of Living — Cor- nish-men — The Irish Element — A determined Fenian — "Shrewd withal" — Boring Machines — Blasting — Timbering — Wonderful Consumption — " Flumes " — Cost of Fuel — The Ore — Assay Contents — Cost of " getting "— After-treatment — Stamping — Amalgama- tion — Eefining — Discovery of Quicksilver — Bullion Production — Virginia Consolidated and California Mine Accounts — Balance Sheets — Management^ — The Sutro Tunnel — Objects — Difficulties — Future Value — Prospects — Baron Eiclitbofen — The Heat Question . 379 CHAPTEE XIX. Hurried Movements — The Eureka District— The Ore and its Treatment — Ogden — Utah — The Wahsatch Moun- tains — The "Great Basin" — Geology — Salt Lake City — The Mormons — Thtir Habitations — Polygamy — The Governor's Message — Newspaper Comment — Camp Douglas — The United States Army — The Indian Bureau — The Great Salt Lake — The Oquirrh Moun- tains — The Mineral Veins of Utah— The Emma Mine — Professor Hayden's Eeport — Other Mines — Cha- racter of the Ores — Cornish Miners — Non-observance of the Sabbath — A lamentable Blemish . . . 397 xiv Contents. PAGE CHAPTEE XX. " Homeward bound " — A beauteous Morn — Train Life again — Evanston — Snow-ploughs — " Clearing the course " — " Quite seared like " — Fellow-travellers — An unfor- tunate "Road-agent" — A mining Prospector — The Black Hills — Their Geology— The Ores -Cost of Treatment— The Crops of Illinois — An oyster Mer- chant — His Trade — Niagara — Arctic Desolation — Eochester — " A White Elephant " — An enthusiastic Naturalist — New York — A flying Visit — " On the Ocean AVave " — Luxurious Voyaging — A quick Eun — Our Log — Queenstown once more — A quiet Sea — An English Fog — Familiar Haunts — Satisfied withal . 417 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. FULL-PAGE ENGRAVINGS. 1. A Mountain Lion or Puma 2. In Estes Park 3. AVapiti on the Prairie 4. A Sioux Camp near Laramie Peak 5. In North Park 6. The Mountain Sheep 7. A Mountain Eange with black-tailed Deer 8. The Cathedral Rocks in the Toseraite . Frontispiece To face 137 207 213 229 261 305 376 SMALLER ENGRAVINGS. 0. "Good-bye." The old Head of Kinsale . . . 1 10. Entrance to St. John's, Newfoundland .... 3 11. Cuckold's Head, Newfoundland 6 12. The North-West Arm, Halifax 11 13. Out of my Window— Halifax 13 14. A dead Moose 38 15. A Micmac Wigwam, Nova Scotia .... 41 16. Lumber Boats and Raft on the St. John's River . . 49 17. A Steamer towing Lumber ...... 56 18. On the Miramichi 57 19. Our Camp on Lake Miramichi . . . . . Q>Q 20. A Caribou head 71 21. Long's Peak, Estes Park 127 22. The Black Canon 138 XVI List of IlltistnitioJis, NO. PAGE 23. Our Camp in Horseshoe Park ..... 145 24. A Sheep Eoek 146 25. A Eange Grizzly ..... 158 26. The prong-horned Antelope 169 27. A AVapiti " roaring " . 180 28. " My first Wapiti " . . . . 198 29. A " Eight and Left " . 201 30. A Scotch Eed Deer head . 201 31. A AYapiti feeding .... 206 32. " The Miner's last Abode " . 225 33. Camping-ground near the frozen Platte 256 34. A Canon of the Platte . 267 35. Head of a Bull Buffalo 292 36. Camp in the Sweet-water Country 301 37. The Seal Eocks near the Golden Gate, San Francisco 334 MAPS. 1. Parts of New Brunswick and Nova Scotia, with route marked by red line ..... 1 2. Geological Map of part of the AVestern Land . . 1 3. Block Map of From Denver to Estes Park, &c. . . 127 AVANDERINGS IN THE WESTERN LAND. "good-bye." the old head of KINSAtE. Fi-um a SMch hi A. P. V. CHAPTER I. PER MARE PER TERRA]\I. Voyage out — St. John's, Newfoundland — Inhabitants — Country — Sporting — Trade — Mining — Passage to Halifax — Cape Eace — French Islands — Sable Island — Halifax : Approach, Situation, Environs, Fortifications, Defenders. After a prosperous and uneventful voyage of six days two-aud-a-lialf hours from Liverpool, we ran through the narrow entrance into the harbour of 2 IVandcrings in the Western Land. St. John's, Newfoundland, on the dull and gloomy evening of the 14th August, 1877. The voyage had been, on the whole, very prosperous. Our ship, the " Caspian," of the Allan Line, had met with some knocking about at the very commencement, in encountering, between Liverpool and Queenstown, what is meteorologically noted as a " moderate gale," but after this, for the remainder of the voyage, had had no reason to complain ; in fact, so well had the elements behaved, that, although a slow boat, she had been able to average about 290 knots per twenty -four hours. We, her passengers, had undergone the wearisome routine of daily life on board ship with as many comforts and as few dis- agreeables as were possible. We had ate and slept with regularity, walked or tried to walk the deck daily, watched the heaving of the log, speculated on seeing icebergs, and discussed our future plans ad nauseam. But now all was over, for here we were, going to set our sea legs once more on mother earth ; some of us, it is true, only for a few hours, but others had reached their final haven, and I cannot help confessing that I envied them much. Such a quaint little harbour as this is, which we have squeezed into through the narrowest of entrances, formed by a rent in the granite cliffs ; how it was ever discovered must always be a matter for wonder. It must be difficult navigation to accom- plish, but when once in, there appeared to be perfect shelter from every quarter. About two years ago the entrance got blocked by an iceberg, which had to be blown up with powder before a free passage could be re-established. The whole place has a West Highland look about it; but the odour is pecu- SL yohus, NcivfoHiidlaud. 3 liar, tlmnks to the cod and seal fisheries, which are the staple trades of the place. ENTRANCE TO ST. JOHN S, NEWFOUNDLAND. From a Sketch h;i A. P. V. The little town, consisting chiefly of wooden houses, is built on the side of the hill facing the harbour; the Roman Catholic cathedral and Government House being perhaps the two most conspicuous edifices. The present Governor is Sir John Glover, V.C., of Ashantee reputation, a most hospitable and popular ruler. The Government House possesses no archi- tectural beauty nor anything of interest, beyond a fine collection of cariboo antlers from the interior of the island, amongst which is a great curiosity, namely, two pairs of antlers locked so firmly to- gether that they cannot be separated, the poor beasts having evidently got entangled in fighting and so perished by starvation. Newfoundland, with a population of over 200,000, is still a separate colony of Great Britain, having D 2 lVa7ide7ino's in the Western Land. ^> refused to join the newly-formed Dominion of Canada, fear of an increased taxation being, I be- lieve, the principal reason against amalgamation. It possesses no military of any sort ; a police force of seventy-eight foot and six mounted constables is sufficient to maintain order. A few years ago, on the occasion of an Irish riot, the six mounted con- stables did excellent service in dispersing the rioters by repeated charges on the ice of the frozen harbour, since which it has been an annual motion of the irreconcilables in the House of Representatives to reduce the vote by the amount required for their maintenance, but hitherto without success. The inhabitants, as a rule, are said to be most loyal to the British crown, and in this respect resemble the rest of the British North Americans. The general appearance of the country at a little distance from St. John's is very like some parts of the Highlands of Scotland. There is the same sort of moorlands, with here and there bare patches of rock cropping up through the wild herbage. Lower down and nearer the town cultivated plots abound, in the midst of which, and surrounded with clumps of spruce and birch, nestle snug-looking homesteads and cottages. The interior of the island is said to be barren and unproductive and but very thinly inhabited, most of the aborigines having migrated northward towards the sea-coast. I was told that, with proper guides, good cariboo hunting can be obtained, but that it is a difficult country to pass through. Much of the travelling must be done in canoes, which have, together with the stores, to be "portaged" by Indians between the different waters. Wolves abound in parts, and Newfotmdland — Sport — Dogs. 5 in consequence of the severe cold in these northern latitudes, their fur greatly surpasses in quality that of the same animal on the American continent. The black bear is also to be found, but is far more common in Labrador, and on Anticosti, where they are reported to be very numerous. There are no moose on the island, but attempts are now being made to introduce them. At the proper seasons of the year the gunner may find himself at home here. Tlie so-called partridge — which in habits and appearance resem- bles much more the grey hen than any European partridge — is very plentiful. When disturbed off the ground, this bird generally takes to a tree, from the branches of which it can be shot down by the merest tyro. But, besides this doubtful sport, the lover of the shot-gun can get most excellent goose and duck-shooting on the inland waters, which har- bour many varieties of the natatores. For those who care about fishing, I am told that salmon abound in some of the rivers, but that there is at present great difficulty in getting to many of the most favoured spots, on account of their dis- tances from any inhabited localities or roads. But this is all hearsay, as I had no opportunity of test- ing the accuracy of my information by any personal experience. In Newfoundland I naturally expected to see in great perfection the far-famed Newfoundland dog, but in that I was doomed to disappointment. It is said that the pure breed is as rare here as it is in England. Quantities of black animals there are, no doubt, running about the streets of St. John's ; but " a.11 is not coal that's black." My local infor- 6 Wandcriuos in the Western Land. mant — an Irishman — who seemed to be a con- 7ioisseur in dogs, said one of the characteristics of the true breed is a web between the toes. They are now very valuable, and are becoming more so. I understand as much as 30/. has been given for a thoroughbred dog. An import of Newfoundland of no mean merit is port wine. This trade has been carried on direct with Portugal for many years, the wine being sent in exchange for the dried cod-fish, which is in much request in that Roman CathoUc country. It is curious that the severity of this climate seems to suit the wine, and that it rather gains than loses in quality by being frozen. Good port can be pur- chased at the time I write for about 147. per quarter cask in bond here, a price which, considering the quality, can scarcely be said to be exorbitant. Our ship got out the Newfoundland portion of her caro^o during- the niorht. The rattliuQ- of the steam cranes did not conduce to refreshing sleep, notwithstanding that the operations were carried on with as little noise as circumstances would allow. The following forenoon we were again under way, steaming steadily southward towards Cape Race. That part of the coast near St. John's is very fine. Bluff headlands of granite and Killas slate stand out grandly into the sea, reminding me much of the wave- worn front of old Cornwall. As in the latter country, there are here also great mineral deposits, and mines of considerable reputation are being busily worked at Betts Cove, on the north-eastern coast of the island, where a rich yellow copper ore is being shipped, most of it across the ocean to Swansea in South Wales. I should have been glad Nezvfouudland — Coast — Cape Race. y to liave visited these mines, but the communication with St. John's is very irreguhar and uncertain, and CUCKOLD S HEAD. THE COAST OF NEWFOUNDLAND. From a Sketch h,/ A P. V. the expedition would have taken far more time than I could well have spared. After leaving St. John's we had a smooth time of it, and were able thoroughly to enjoy this portion of the voyage. We passed a good many fishing and coasting craft, generally of the regular American fore-and-aft rig, with sails as white as a yacht's. In the afternoon we were abreast of the far-famed but unimposing Cape Race, eighty-six nautical miles from St. John's. In old days the Liverpool and New York mail steamers were wont to make this headland, and, in order to save the loss of time in going into St. John's, used to throw the mails overboard in a water-tight tin case, a gun being fired from the ship to attract the notice of those on shore. A reward of ten shillings was paid to the 8 IVandcj'ings in the Western Land. hardy fishermen by the shore authorities for each case deUvered to them ; and, wonderful to relate, very few were ever lost. Nowadays railroads and telegraph cables have changed all this, and the New York liners pass far away to the southward, giving this often fog-hidden headland a very wide berth. The coast itself is low, having gradually lessened in height as we came southwards. The cliffs are covered with a short stubby undergrowth, apparently a sort of dwarf pine, and no trees of any size seem to grow near the coast. From Cape Race the coast bends away to the west and north, towards Cape St. Mary and the Gulf of St. Lawrence. On this south-west coast are many French settlers, with certain peculiar rights as to fishing, &c., which are likely to require before very long the attention of the two Governments. Not very far from here are the very small islands of Miquelon and St. Pierre, the last footholds in these parts left to France by the Quebec and other treaties. The following afternoon we were about fifty miles north of that curious spot on the ocean, " Sable Island," a low flat bank of sand (hence the name) heaved up from the bed of the ocean. It is situated off the coast of Nova Scotia, and is about 220 miles east-south-east of Halifax. Its westernmost end is in N. lat. 48° 56'; W. long. 60" 71'; and its eastern end N. lat. 43° 59'; W. long. 59° 42'. It is about 50 miles in length, from end to end, with bars of sand running out for 16 miles on the north-western, and 28 miles on the other end ; both bars are from 1 mile to\\ miles in width. On these bars a most fearful sea breaks in bad weather. As a dreadful proof of the dangers of this bank, two hundred lives are said to have been lost here in one year.^. No Sable Island — Approach to Halifax. 9 shrub or tree grows on the island, only bent grass, with some cranberry and whortleberry bushes. One of the sand-hills on it is 100 feet in heis^ht. This curious storm-swept island was first colonized by forty French convicts, who were landed on it in ] 598 by the Marquis de la Roche, and who would have been starved had it not been for some sheep which happened to be thrown ashore from a vessel. In old days, before it was well lighted, many a terrible wreck used to occur on this inhospitable shore, and starvation generally awaited the poor unfortunate seamen who escaped the fearful surf. The authorities endeavoured to lessen such horrors by turning out a few cattle on the island. They thrived, and did well on the scanty herbage ; but such is the greed for filthy lucre that scoundrels used to land from vessels for the purpose of killing and carrying away this provision for the shipwrecked, and in this way the stock has disappeared. The present inhabitants of the island are the lighthouse-keepers and their famihes, and, ciu*ious to relate, some wild horses. These latter are sup- posed to be the descendants of some Spanish horses cast ashore very many years ago. They subsist on the scanty sand-grass, and obtain water by pawing up the sand with their fore feet. Occasionally parties land and capture some for the purposes of sale. A more uninviting abode than this island can scarcely be conceived, and one can well imagine the intense horror with which it used to be regarded by the ancient mariner. Now, although well lighted, the universal instructions to all captains are to give it a very wide berth. A nis^ht's steamino^ brougfht us into the harbour of Halifax, the approach to which is very pleasing. lo Wanderings in the Western Land. The western entrance, up wliieli we sailed, and wliicli is the only one for large vessels, is well protected by forts on both shores, and on the McNab and George Islands. The former of these divides the western from the eastern entrance. The forts mount very heavy guns of the most modern pattern, and are manned by English artillerymen, but the complement is said to be far short of what would be required to work the guns. This matter should have the attention of our Government ; for it is of national impor- tance that this, our only naval station, and now the only garrison of English troops in North America, should be in such a condition that in time of war it should be able to afford shelter and security to our imperial and mercantile marine. If it is worth holding at all, it is worth holding w^ell, and every- thing: should be done to make it a secure haven for ourselves and an object of terror to an aggressor — a haven to which, in time of war, our merchantmen could run for safety, where our war vessels could refit in security, and whence they could issue at any time to harass the enemies' shipping, blockade their ports, or descend on their vulnerable positions. The so-called McNab Island, derives its name from an old fisherman, who, having been seized outside the harbour by the French, in one of the expeditions of by-gone days, and forced to pilot their squadron into Halifax, took the opportunity of the darkness of night to steer them into what is now termed the north-west arm of the harbour. Here the water is very shallow, and the vessels soon grounded. History does not say how the old salt himself escaped, or, indeed, whether he escaped at all ; but the result of his piloting to the French was Halifax — A mcricau Jiofcls. 1 1 the destruction of their squadron, and to himself, or his family, the gift from the British Government of that important island which now bears his name. r~ '■'m^ THE ^•ORT^-^YEST AR.M, HALIFAX, N.S. From a Sk-etck hy A. P. V. Halifax is a picturesque town, situated on the side of a hill overlooking the harbour, on the summit of which is the well-known citadel. It is old for America, having been founded about the year 1750. Amongst other novelties to be encountered on first landing in America, are the peculiarities of the hotel life. The system is, as it were, en pension, so man}^ dollars per day (generally from $3.50 to $5.50 — 14,9. to 22s.) for rooms and food. The meals take place at fixed times, between stated hours ; they are served at separate little tables, the waiters being usually coloured men. The functions of the various officials do not quite coincide with what they are with us. As for instance, I found out on my very first morning that brushing clothes does not constitute part of the duties of the individual 12 Wandei'-inss in the Western Land. ^> answering to our " boots." I had rung my bell several times with no effect, when at last a. very small boy appeared. I told him, perhaps rather shortly, to take my clothes down to be brushed ; he and the clothes quickly disappeared, but there was no reappearance of either. I again had recourse to the bell, and at last the boy again presented him- self, but without the clothes. On my demanding an explanation of their whereabouts, he said no one would brush them " as the weather was too hot." I apologized for having asked for such a service in such trying weather, and was only too glad to get them back and be released from my bedroom in an unbrushed condition. I found out that one is ex- pected to have them brushed, or rather whisked over in situ, by the individual who takes the hats, at the entrance to the salle a manger. The weather was somewhat hot, but not intoler- ably so — in fact, very enjoyable. The heat does not, however, last long at this time of year — the latter end of August — and is soon succeeded by the fresh " Fall " weather. In the environs there are many very beautiful and varied drives and walks. Some of the most popular are along the Bedford Basin ; through the Park to the North West Arm ; from Dartmouth on the other side of the harbour, round by some lovely fresh- water lakes, &c., &c. Melville Island is worth a visit ; it is situated down the harbour, not far from the North West Arm, and is now used as a Military Prison. When we were there, about fifty prisoners were employed in breaking stones for the roads. The stones were doubtless necessary, but could be obtained from inferior labour, and it seemed as if such a mass of men would have been better employed Halifax — Environs — Dcjcnccs. i 3 in erecting the forts which, I am told, have been decided npon, but which are still in the future. When these works are finished and armed, then comes the all-important question of manning them efficiently. The Dominion artillerymen are, I believe, good, but are far too few in number, and, moreover, at present, have not been drilled to work our new and improved ordnance. As for our own Royal Artillery, but few probably could be spared in time of war from our more important European positions. I am told, however, that the native fisherman is the finest raw material possible. During that portion of the year when he could not carry on his natural calling, he would no doubt be willing, for a very small remu- neration, to put himself through a course of training. Being strong and very hardy, intelligent and keen- sighted, he would soon render himself an effective gunner, and in the hour of need could be relied on as a sturdy defender, not only of those forts which now exist, but of those which are to be erected hereafter. OUT OF MY WINDOW AT HALIFAX, N.S. From a Sketch by A. P. V. CHAPTER 11. " '111 is is the forest prinicvul. The murmuring pines and tlie hem locks, Eearded with moss, and in garments green, indistinct in tlie twilight, Stand like Druids of eld, Avith voices sad and prophetic. Stand like harpers hoar, with beards that rest on their bosom." Lonr/felloii/s " Evanrjeline." Start for the Hunt — Outfitting and Outfit — Eailroad Cars and Conductors — The Intercolonial System — Canadian Forests — Waste by Fires — Causes — Legislation — Spring Hill — Coal Mine — New Line — Cumberland County — Settlers — Varieties of Timber — Maple and Sugar jNIaking. I HAD spent nearly a week very pleasantly in Halifax, when one day I got a telegram from my brother-in- law, Lord Dunraven, to say he had landed at New York, and that if there were bears in the province, he would come up for a " hunt." This led to an Indian, who had been with him on a former occasion, being telegraphed for, to give his opinion on our bear prospects ; and his opinion was so favourable that an answer was sent to D. to come up " right away," and that I would meet him with the Indian hunter and my Scotch stalker, at a station called Spring Hill, on the Intercolonial Railway, and bring with me tents, camp-utensils, and sufficient stores for a fortnight's hunt. Pirparatious for the hnnl. 15 As I had never done any real " cainping-out," I was perfectly ignorant as to what sort of stores were requh^ed, as well as the quantity of each necessary. All this was, however, made very easy to me through the kindness of Col. Gierke — a very ■old campaigner — and the general knowledge of Scott, grocer and outfitter. Colonel Gierke, at D.'s request, had kindly procured for me an excellent tent from Hemmenway, New York, which turned out so good, that after several months' experience, I had no fault to find with it. It remained perfectly water-tight to the end of my campaign (except where holes had been torn), and stood the rough usage it was subjected to in a most exemplary manner. It was not furnished with poles, which for use in Canada was no disadvantage, but for hunting on the plains of the Rocky Mountains certainly ought to be forthcoming, and these should be so arranged as to pack with the tent. If winter weather is to be encountered, a small stove should also be provided, when a hole for passing the stove-pipe through, must be made in the canvas. Stoves of all sorts are quite a sj)pdalite. of America, and the small tent and cooking-stove is no exception to their general excellence. But to return to my preparations for my first camp out. All the necessaries being provided for me, nothing devolved upon my own responsibility but the luxuries ; these consisted of a few reindeers' tongues, cans of potted soup, a little preserved milk (which, by the way, nearly always leaked out and bedaubed other things), and a few tins of preserved or " canned " salmon. The third day found me ready and keen to make a start. 1 6 ]]anderings in the ]]^csfcrn Land. My "out-fit" (as a party is termed in America) on starting from Halifax consisted of myself and Sandie Macdonald, a true Highlander and a good stalker, of Glengarry birtli ; " Ned," a sliort-baired colley dog, hailing from Glen Nevis, and reported to be a first-class deer tracker ; and an Irish water- spaniel called " Sailor," who had already seen great sport with me on the Nile, and in Albania and Greece, and who accompanied me now in case of my having any duck or prairie-fowl shooting. This was a somewhat large party to move about by train, in addition to the stores and other imjyedimenta, but as I had been kindly given a general letter of intro- duction by a Canadian railway swell, or, as he would be termed here, a railway " boss," my travel- ling was made very easy. I may here say that, throughout my travels, I met with the greatest civility from all ofiicials, the only exception being from certain jacks-in-ofiice, in the shape of the baggage-men on the Union Pacific Railroad, who on more than one occasion annoyed me much about my guns. It appeared that these gentry are allowed to extract, as a perquisite and part payment of their services, so much for each gun from any passenger having such an article amongst his baggage. As may be supposed, this leads to much questioning on the part of these worthies, as to first, whether you have any, and secondly, how many guns you have in your baggage. I have not met with such a practice in any of my other wanderings, and I would submit that such a way of partly paying their employes is scarcely worthy of a great railway company. To return to my present journey, however. Every- American Railway Travelling. 17 thing was made as sraootli and agreeable as possible, and without any vexatious haggling or bother of any sort or kind, I found myself seated in one of the long cars of the Intercolonial Eailway, bound for the happy hunting-gi^ounds of the Parsborough country. It is unnecessary to dwell upon the pecu- liarities of American railway travelling, as they have been so often and so well described, and are well- known to many from personal experience. The gi'eat difference in the appearance and arrange- ment of the cars or carriages from our own, strikes an Englishman at once. These are usually about sixty feet long, with a passage down the centre, ha^T.ng a succession of two seats together, on each side. They are carried on four pairs of small bogie- wheels, two pairs at each end. The locomotive is remarkable to our eyes from the well-known bell- mouthed smoke funnel, and the useful " cow- catcher," like a great plouglishare, protruding in front of the wheels. The ease of travelling varies much on different lines. On this it was smooth and steady, but the pace of even the fastest passenger trains is not great, seldom exceeding twenty-eight miles an hour. The conductor is the great personage on an American railway. His authority is paramount, and his terse order, " All on board," must be obeyed " right away," or the lagging passenger will assuredly find himself left behind. To be sure, unless the train has actually got well away, he can generally get on to the last car, and pass through the central passage into his own car ; but should he be too late for this on his way across the continent, the punishment of being left behind is not a slight one, for there he will be planted for twenty-four c 1 8 WandciHngs in the Western Land. hours, until the corresponding train of the follow- ing day arrives. By the conductors being allowed to collect money from passengers having no tickets, railway companies naturally stand a good chance of being considerably defrauded, and many amusing stories are told of such occurrences. On one occasion a conductor who had been long in the employ of a company, was discovered retaining money to a very large extent. He was had up before the Board of Directors, reproached for such behaviour, and asked whether he had anything to say why he should not be instantly dismissed. His reply was forcible, — " Well, I guess, you arc making quite a mistake in shunting me. You see I have made my fortune, but the gentleman who follows after will have to make his." One of my hunters in the Rocky Mountains had had a friend a conductor. The first day he was on, he collected about $50 ; he thought of this sum he would hand in about $30, keeping the remainder for his own uses! "Hallo, what's this?" said the inspector. "Why the money I took yesterday," was the reply. " Well you did have a big day of it anyhow. The gent before you never took more than $20 in a day" ! ! So much for their ticket system, which I do not think we need copy, however far ahead they undoubtedly are in many other particulars con- nected with the comfort of railway travelling. This Intercolonial Railway is a new line, having been only opened a few years. It unites Halifax with Quebec, joining the Grand Trunk system at Riviere du Loup. The distance from Halifax to Riviere du Loup is 561 miles, which is run in 20 hours. On the rail — Canadian Forests. 19 At Moncton, 187 miles from Halifax, a branch line goes off 89 miles to St. Jolin's, New Brunswick. On leaving Halifax the line (or, as it is called here, the "track") runs for a long distance through a flat well-timbered country, passing many a likely- lookino- lake, on the maro^ins of which one could imagine the gigantic moose disporting himself, but not a sight of game of any sort gladdened my eyes throughout the whole journey ; there appeared, in fact, a general want of wild animal life. Here and there might be seen patches of hundreds of acres of burnt timber, testifying to the fearful ravages made by fire in these grand Canadian forests. These fires sometimes originate from sparks from locomotives, more frequently perhaps from carelessness on the part of the settlers them- selves, or other parties, camping out in the woods. It is really too sad to contemplate the wreck made by such conflagrations, and it is high time for the Government to adopt some practical measure for enforcing as much care as possible on those with whom these disasters originate. The United States have already very stringent laws for this purpose, which are put in force when- ever proof of carelessness can be obtained. The Canadian forests are indeed grand heirlooms, but heirlooms which are getting less and less year by year, even at the present rate of legitimate consump- tion. A time must soon come when Canadian timber will be far more diflacult to get than at present, and far more costly. Why then should this comparative scarcity be hastened on by needless carelessness or reckless mischief? Sometimes the embers of a fire, not extinguished before the camp is left, kindles up c 2 20 IVandermes in the Western Land. "s into a flame again ; at otlier times tlie careless light- ing of a pipe or the wanton mischief of a boy may start a fire, which results in the destruction of hundreds, aye, thousands of acres of magnificent forest timber. It is truly distressing to see these blackened stumps and poles, stretching away for miles, where, only a few months before, forest giants luxuriated in their primeval grandeur. Let us hope that ere long effective measures will be in force which will check this sinful waste. But to return; at Spring Hill station we branched off from the main line of the Intercolonial Hallway, and having to wait here some time, I was able to learn a little about this, one of the most important coal producing districts of the Dominion. The Spring Hill colliery has been opened about three years, and is one of the largest undertakings in this locality. It is in communication with the main line by a branch of about four and a half miles from the Spring Hill station. The " out-put " at the present time is about 300 tons per day. The measures are steep, — that is, lie at a sharp angle, — about 35° I was told ; the coal is won by a slant driven down over 100 fathoms in one of the veins. Three veins are being worked ; the largest has a thickness of about nine feet of coal, the quality is said to be strong bituminous. I see the analysis is given as 60'95 % carbon, 25'38 % volatile matter, the remainder ash, with a little sulphur. It is used exclusively by the locomotives on the Intercolonial Railway Company, and seems to answer well. There are about 300 men employed in connexion with the colliery, for whom cottages have been built by the company. Oil the limit — Harrison'' s. 2 1 About a quarter of an hour's rail from Spring Hill station landed us at the colliery, where we chauo-ed from a mineral into a basfofao^e-wao-cron, which, with a few "lumber" or timber trucks, formed the train for the remainder of our railway journey. A run, or rather a crawl, of three hours to perform fourteen miles, brought us through a well-timbered, thinly-inhabited country, to a cross- road called Halfway River. Here ourselves and baggage were deposited on the side of the track, this being the nearest spot on the railway to the country of our future hunting operations. Leaving the impedimenta in charge of Sandie Macdonald, I set off on foot for a settler's homestead about a mile away, and arranged with the owner to convey us to another settler's, called Harrison, from whose house we hoped the next day to make our start into the woods. A very comfortable home was Harrison's. A plain, well-built plank-house, lined inside with birch bark to keep out the cold and draughts, and covered with creepers ; the interior was plainly but substantially furnished, and con- tained more comforts than might have been expected so far away from any town or stores. Outside, it possessed an important addition to good living in the shape of a capital garden and orchard. Wild hops grew luxuriantly, as is generally the case in this country, but I never saw them cultivated as a crop by the Canadian farmer. I could never ascertain why this was, for all I asked seemed to agree in the suitability of the climate and the ready market which could be made for them. Our host was a good specimen of a well-to-do Canadian settler. He had emigrated from the " old 22 lVa7idcri7iQs in the Western Land. ^> country " as a poor labourer some fifty years ago, and bad settled at once wliere we now found him. He has acquired a considerable estate, and has reared a large family, the youngest of whom is already in her teens. A large portion of his land is covered with timber, on which he sets a great value, foreseeing, that, owing to the vast quantity which is felled yearly, and the immense destruction by fire, the value of timber (or " lumber," as it is here termed) must increase enormously. The timber hereabouts is principally " black spruce," which grows so fast that when thirty years old, Harrison told me, he could cut " deals " out of it twelve inches wide by three inches thick. Besides the spruce, of which there are three varieties, there are three kinds of birch and two of maple. In addition to the wholesale modes of destroying timber of which I have spoken, there is individual or retail waste constantly going on. If a settler finds a fine tree encroaching on his clearing or road, instead of felling it and making use of the timber, he will often, as they say here, " nick" it, that is, cut a deep notch in the tree about four feet from the ground all the way round. Circula- tion is stopped, and the tree dies and falls. Then again in hunting, if an Indian wants to mark his way, he will pass along breaking the leading shoots off the young firs as he goes. If it suits his fancy, he will make his camp-fire at such close proximity to, it may be, the finest tree of the forest that the roots are consumed and the tree itself destroyed. This was the case at our first camp, and when I sug- gested the removal of the fire a little further from the splendid spruce, a contemptuous smile lighted up Forest trees — The sugar maple — Syntp. 23 the face of our hardened old Indian, accompanied by some light remarks about there being plenty more. By the end of our week's sojourn the roots and side of the stem nearest the fire were completely charred, and the gigantic old fellow had but to die. From the variety of maple called here the rock maple {cicer saccharmus), a fine white sugar is made. The process — which takes place in the month of April — consists in cutting a V in the bark, in the point of which a plug of wood is inserted which serves as a tap for the juice to flow over. This is collected into vessels, and concentrated by boiling until crystals are obtained, in much the same way, I believe, as the ordinary cane-sugar is manufactured. It is stated that a very good tree will yield in a season, without injury to itself, thirty- two gallons of sap or juice, which would make about 8 lbs. of sugar ; but I believe such a yield to be far above the average, which would be, probably, nearer twenty gallons of sap per tree. In appearance, the maple sugar is very like ordinary white sugar. Both in the States and in Canada it is in much favour, as well as the syrup made from the same source. The consumption of syrup in North America must be enormous. No meal is considered com- plete, even in the backwoods, without this " fixing," and to such an extent is this a necessary that it is a regular item in the fitting-out stores of the hunter, miner, and lumberman. This would seem to confirm the theory that to a great extent saccha- rine matter supplies the place of alcohol in the human system, as but little spirits are, as a rule, consumed by this class of " outfits." Amongst the other principal forest trees of 24 Wanderings in the Westcj'u Land. Canada are the pines, of wliich there are said to bo four chief varieties, viz. the Weymouth, or white pine {pinus Strohm) ; the yellow pine {pinus mitis) ; the red or pitch pine {pinus resinosd) ; and the grey pine (jnnus Banlcsiana), of no commercial value. Then there are four principal sorts of spruce, viz. the hemlock [pinus or ahies Canadensis) ; the white (pinus alba), and the black {pinus nigra), and the balsam spruce (pinus balsamea). There is only one variety of larch, namely the black larch (larix Americanus). The birch is a magnificent produc- tion of these forests, growing to such a size as we have no idea of in the old country. There are three varieties, the black, the yellow, and the white (betula alba). Tlie bark of this latter is one of the most useful, if not the most curious, productions of the great Canadian forests. It is truly marvellous to hear of the many and varied uses to which it is applied. It is a true friend alike to all — to the Indian, the hunter and the settler. Of it, the Indian makes liis camp utensils ; with it, he covers his canoe, and forms the outside of his wigwam, for which his Western brethren use the skins of the buffalo and the deer. In it he has a torch always ready to hand ; and however wet the weather, it will " start " his fire, an invaluable blessing in such a climate as that of Canada. On one occasion I call to mind, we had to make camp in the dark ; the difiiculties of this proceeding were considerable, from having to grope about for everything, when of a sudden one of our Indians encountered an old birch tree, the bark of which he forthwith fired ; a grand blaze ensued which greatly facilitated our endeavours, and we soon got fixed for the night. Birch barl', ?7s uses. 25 The Indian squaw is said to be able to boil water in vessels made of birch bark, by dropping heated stones into the water. Very great ingenuity is dis- played by the natives in making utensils of this bark ; the corners are turned up and secured with the supple roots of shrubs, which seem to be always at hand, and as pliable as Avhipcord. The less inge- nious settler has found out that he can make his plank house warmer and more comfortable by lining the inside with sheets of birch bark, and this plan is now very generally adopted in the better class of houses. When the country is left in which the birch flourishes, the want of the ready friend is keenly felt in more ways than one, but more especially about the camp-fire, where it can only be supplied by much additional labour in find- ing and cutting up the very small dead sprigs of the neighbouring pine trees. CHAPTER III. " Here and there rise groves from the margins of swift running rivers, And the grim taciturn bear, the anchorite monk of the desert, CHmbs down their dark ravines to dig for roots at the brookside." Longfellow, "Evangeline" 4th par., 2nd part. After Bear — My Indian Hunter — Woodcraft — Ferocity of the Bear— Our First Camp — Camp-making — Food — Sleep — Still- ness — Unsuccessful Hunting — The Moose — Close Time — Legis- lation — Cause of Scarcity — Modes of Hunting — Snowshoe Eunning — A Successful " Creep " — " Calling " and Mos- quitoes. The next morning we were oft* at an early liour for the country in which we intended to make our hunt for bear. A waggon was chartered to convey our baggage, Sandie being told off as baggage-guard. We left a message for D , to inform him of our movements and the whereabouts of our future camp ; while the Indian, John Williams, and myself went ahead on foot, to hunt some of the most likely places on our way to the camping rendezvous. John was a famous companion, besides being a most killing hunter. He was of the Micmac tribe, to which all the Indians in Nova Scotia, and a great many of those now located in New Brunswick, belong. They are a quiet, peaceful, inoffensive race ; hard working and money earning. They are A 71 Indian hunter. 27 said to be able to do as hard a day's work and earn as much money at the lumber trade as a white man. But John was not one of this sort ; he was evidently meant for hunting, and not for hard manual labour. He dehghted in the chase, and was an undeniable hunter; but his specialite wdu^ his woodcraft. Many as good a stalker (or, as it is termed here, " creeper ") could be found in the Highlands of Scotland ; but in his dense native forests it would be difficult to find John's equal. Not a thing escaped his notice. When the ground was too hard to show a track, the fallen debris of the pine and hard wood were carefully scrutinized ; twigs of the neighbour- ing shrubs, which a beast might have rubbed in passing, were consulted ; should a morsel have been nipped off a sapling, it was sure to attract John's hawk eye ; and woe betide any beast which he once got on the trail of; not the finest-nosed sleath- hound could follow with a greater certainty of a view than my companion of to-day. Tn appearance he was peculiar, though not striking in any way ; he stood about five feet six inches, was wiry in make, sallow in complexion, with long, lanky, black hair; in gait he was rather shuffling, but capable nevertheless of great endurance and considerable speed. His costume was not strictly in accordance with one's Scotch-conceived ideas; it consisted of a dirty tweed shooting-coat, a pair of blackish overalls, and a white straw hat ; a pair of mocassins of his own make took the place of shoes. With what a marvellous quiet stealth did those mocassins glide through the timber, not breaking the smallest twig ; whilst I, trying to follow most carefully in my London -made shooting-boots, broke so many dead 28 Waitdei'iii^s in the J Fes fern Land. and rotten twigs, and made so much noise, tliat I felt truly asliamed of myself, before I encountered John's half-astonished, half -reproachful looks at my misbehaviour. When game was near, and tracks became what is called " burning hot," the joyful twinkle in John's dull eyes was worth seeing, it seemed to say, " Hurrah ! I am all right, it is only for you to do your part now." To-day it did not much signify how much noise I made, nor how skilful John was, for not a fresh track of bear did we come across ; there were plenty of old ones, and other signs, too, such as stones and pieces of timber turned over in search of ants; but nothing denoted any recent visit on Bruin's part to the " barrens " we searched so diligently. These so- called " barrens " are open spaces in the timber, off which the trees have been destroyed by fire or axe ; a short undergrowth quickly comes up, consisting chiefly of " blueberries," as they are here termed ; which are very sweet and attractive to the bear, and on them and beech-nuts at this time of the year he largely subsists. But if I had no actual sport, I had at any rate a good lesson; for old John initiated me in all the different signs of the bear. The track is not unlike a child's foot in a mocassin, from the fact that the animal places the last joint of his leg on the ground at the same time as his paw. Having never come across a black bear, I cannot say anything from personal observation on their behaviour when brought to close quarters ; but all I heard satisfied me that, unless cornered and unable to get away, from wounds or any other cause ; or unless in the case of a she-bear defending her young, they will always " skip " (run off) as fast as 071 r first camp — Camp making. 29 tliey can. I believe nearly all wild animals will do the same ; the rhinoceros, African panther, East Indian tiger, and grizzly bear being perhaps occa- sional exceptions to this general rule. As this was our first camp, we were anxious to reach pretty early the spot previously arranged on by John and the teamster. The locale selected was a ridge in the forest, on one side of which was a valley through which crawled a small sluggish stream. In this little brook were plenty of small and indifferent trout, of which we were always able to procure sufficient for our wants with but little difficulty. On the other side of the ridge, at a higher level, was a small spring as clear as crystal, trickling down a gentle slope, very small in quantity, but of excellent quality, and it was from this we got our drinking supplies. Of the other great camp necessary, firewood, there Avas indeed an abundance ; we were established in the midst of a clump of gigantic spruce, against one of which our camp fire had been lighted ; and all around, as far as the eye could reach in every direction, were to be seen dense masses of fir, spruce, and other forest trees; the underwood and younger saplings were excellent materials for the camp fire. The process of making camp was new to me, and as it may be so to some of my readers, and may interest them, I will briefly describe the modus operandi. The general locale being selected, the next thing is to pick out the exact spot most suited for the camp fire. This is chosen with regard to the number and position of the tents to be pitched aromid, and proximity to wood and water. Having selected the spot, a fire is at once " started." In 30 Wanderings in the Western Land. this, as in many other things, to make a commence- ment is the chief difficulty, and often requires a great exercise of patience. A small quantity of dry birch bark or, where this is not procurable, of the driest twigs is first collected, a handful of which is gathered up, and the of ttimes precious match is then struck and carefully applied ; when well ignited, the bunch is gently laid on the ground, and a little more of the same material is added very gradually to it. By continu- ally adding larger and larger pieces of dry branches, the fire is fostered and encouraged into a certain substance of blazing materials, on which may be gently laid, crossways, two or three logs of dry spruce, or fir (in the E-ocky Mountains, cotton- wood or pitch pine). Now all is safe, at any rate for a considerable time, and the individual to whom is deputed the culinary department, can look after his pots and pans, and viands, and the others set to work chopping wood for the night, cutting tent poles, clearing spaces of dead wood and rubbish for the tents, clipping off the small branches of the spruce for forming the beds (of which more anon), or the many other little things which have to be looked to for future comfort. It was indeed a fortunate thing for me that I was regularly instructed in the art of making a fire early in my camping-out life ; other- wise, when afterwards " lost " in the Rocky Moun- tains, it would have gone hard with me. But to go on with om^ camp-making : as level and dry a spot as was obtainable near the camp fire having been cleared of all rubbish, such as dead boughs, roots, young growth, &c., the tents — of which we had three on the present occasion — are pitched and securely fastened to the pegs, tree-roots, or brushwood. Camp making. 3 1 The tents are placed so that the doors face the fire, and as near to it on the probable lee-side as safety fi'om the sparks will allow. Often in cold weather the hunter is tempted to pitch his tent too near the fire, when he is lucky if he escape only with holes burnt in the canvas, through which water may in future drop on his prostrate body, as a punish- ment for his indiscretion ; sometimes, however, the total destruction of the canvas home is the sad result of trying to secure warmth at the expense of safety. The tents being pitched and secured, the " floor " is covered when procurable with the small branches of the spruce, laid a couple of inches thick, with the prickly side downwards. Nothing can exceed the comfort and luxurious lying of a fresh-made bed of this description. It is soft and springy, and it has about it a delicious, comforting aroma, satisfying and soothing in the extreme. The evening meal is being seen to all this time, and by the time our beds are made, the food is pronounced ready. Lay- ing hold of our tin plate and a knife and fork, we proceed to operations, and find that this half-hour of supper is by no means the least pleasant of the twenty-four. On the present occasion, we were obliged to be content with bacon and canned viands : but we had most excellent bread, baked in a frying- pan on the red-hot wood ashes. We were generally able afterwards to vary this too civilized fare with some game, most commonly the so-called " par- tridges," of which there are two varieties, locally called "the common" and "the birch partridge." When in the haunts of venison, the meals are real events. If meat is plentiful, only the choicest parts 32 Wanderings in the Western Land. are taken for camp use, and when these morsels are fried in lard or elk's fat, and supplemented with the most delicious new bread, made of the finest Colorado flour (of the " snow-flake " brand), and eaten in that wonderfully pure and invigorating atmosphere, we have a meal not to be equalled for enjoyment by the best dinner of the civilized world. I cannot say that I slept as well on this my first night in camp as I probably should have done in my own bed after a stiff day's walking. All was so strange and new. The novelty, not to say discom- fort, at first, of sleeping in an unaccustomed garb ; the chilliness which comes over one towards morn- ing, when camping out in hot weather ; the sense of loneliness and the absence of all sounds of life, except the shrill, uncanny cry of the owl — all tend at first to light sleeping and constant waking. Then the intense stillness of a Canadian forest, even in the daytime, naturally much intensified at night, must be felt to be understood. No one can fully estimate the value of song-birds till after they have experienced their want. Here not a chirp is ever heard — nothing but the melancholy " tap, tap, tap," and the peculiarly wild note of the wood- pecker. How one longs for the rich, full notes of our own familiar birds ! and how welcome would be the chirp of even the much-despised London house- sparrow ! The howling of the many-tongued coyote would be an actual relief to the death-like stillness of the night, but even this is denied to the Canadian forest, where an unbroken quiet reigns around, made more lonesome only by the wailing of the air in the branches of the pines. The break of day came at last, but all remained The Forest stillness — On the hunt. ^-^^y oppressively still until oiu- outfit began to move about ; then cliattering and cliopping commenced in earnest, and everybody was busy and at work at something. The first thing to be done in the morn- ing after "fixing up" the fire is to boil the water necessary for ablutions ; then the bread has to be baked, and the meat fried for the early meal. Ofteny if well banked up on turning in, the fire will be all aglow in the morning, and only require the addition of some fresh fuel, and a skilful kick or two, to make it break forth into an active flame. How comforting is its warmth to one's bones, when wait- ing eagerly for food after a bitter night, during which it has been somewhat difiicult to keep warm enough for sleep ! In what form one feels by the time breakfast is ready ! and what a quantity is consumed before the meal is over ! There is no doubt about it, that camping out gives an appetite and a relish which are never forthcoming in the domesticated routine of home life, and however many meals are con- sumed, that miserable production of civilized life, in- digestion, is a complaint unknown in the backwoods. After doing justice to our provender, John Wil- liams and I started off for a morning's hunt. The result was nothing but a good walk and plenty of talk, chiefly on hunting and the mysteries of woodcraft. Although Ave saw no fresh signs of bear, there were plenty of indications that we were in the country of that largest of the deer tribe the moose {Alces Ameri- canus, or Malchis), hut this was the close season, the Legislature of Nova Scotia having deemed it prudent to prohibit the killing of moose for three years, which period expires on the coming 1st of October. A few words about the advisability and working D 31 Wande7^in^s in the Western Land. of this law. I begin by saying that I most fully concur in any legislation which would tend to the better preservation of this grand animal, but I doubt very much whether prohibiting their being killed altogether for three years, and then allowing them to be slaughtered at pleasure during the winter months, commencing with the 1st of October, is calculated to attain this object. Every one who has had anything to do with the deer tribe in general, knows that the male about this time of year begins to get out of season, and I believe that the moose is no exception to this general rule. From what I am told, the bull moose is in prime condition from about the 20th of August to the 1st of October, and is at that time well able to take care of himself in his native fastnesses ; but after the snow has fallen he is out of condition and weak, and falls an easy prey to the hunter shod with snow- shoes. The heavy brute himself breaks through the crust formed on the surface of the snow, whilst the broad snow-shoes bear the hunter over the fickle skin of ice. The cows heavy with calf fall easy victims, and are killed chiefly for the sake of their hides ; hitherto both sexes seem to have been slaughtered indiscriminately. Is it any wonder, then, that this grand deer is becoming rapidly extinct? What would become of our Scotch red deer if stags and hinds were to be killed all through the winter ? The only wonder to me is that there are so many left as there still are. Another of the endeavours of the local Legislature to protect the moose (and caribou) is a regulation that no one in any one year shall kill more than two moose and three caribou. But who is to enforce Moose legislation. 35 this law ? How is it possible to obtain proof of an offence against it, considering the extent of the thinly inhabited and thickly timbered regions which have to be dealt with ? I believe that if the Leffis- lature were to enact that no bull moose should be killed except during the months of August and Sep- tember, and that no cow moose should be killed at all for a certain number of years, and then that they should have the same close time as the bull moose, making the penalty for killing or possessing double what it is at present — viz., one hundred instead of fifty dollars — that there would soon be plenty of moose again. Against this it will be urged that the winter is the great time for moose hunting, and that it is such "sport" on snow-shoes. I have never tried it, so am nnable to form an opinion ; but I can hardly believe in the enjoyment of this sport, which consists in running down a fine animal, wasted and miserably out of condition, floundering through t]ie crust of snow, which is strong enough, however, to support you on your snow-shoes. Then again it will be said, that it would be hard on many poor Indians, and some settlers, who now subsist largely on moose meat through the winter. Well, under any circumstances, these individuals will soon have to find something else to subsist on, as imder the present system there will soon be no moose at all ; besides which, it would be quite open to them to cure for their winter's wants any meat killed in the autumn, as is often done now. These enactments should of course be made equally applicable to Indians and whites, and a good portion of the fine should be allowed to the informer on whose evidence the conviction is obtained. D 2 36 Wandcrmgs in the Western Laud. Various causes are assigned by the inhabitants for the increasing scarcity of the moose. It is said that, on the occasion of our troops going out to Canada at the time of the '* Trent " affair, a most lament- able slaughter took place by both Indian and white hunters to provide mocassins for the soldiers, which the Government thought to be necessary. The bears are often accused of assisting in the destruction of the moose by killing the young calves ; but I could not find out that this v^as the case, at any rate, to any considerable extent. I believe that the slaughter which has taken place in the deep snows of winter is the main cause of the present scarcity, and that this will, unless checked by effectual legislation, eventually cause the total extinction. I do not mean for one moment to assert that the three years' rest which has now been given in this province, has not been of very great service ; on the contrary, I be- lieve from what I am told that the moose has in- creased enormously during this period ; but I am very doubtful whether the coming winter will not leave as great a scarcity as has ever before existed, and for the following reason : every hunter and would-be sportsman knows that they are more than usually plentiful now, and that the Legislature may at any moment re-enact a fresh close time ; con- sequently, all are anxious to be at them, and the poor beasts will get a very hard time of it from all sides. And now to close this dissertation on the pro- tection of the moose, and to say a few words about the animal itself, and the two other modes of " hunting " it, besides that on snow-shoes in winter. Judging ])y the only specimen I ever killed, and from what I heard and saw, the American moose is The Moose — Illodes of huntijig-. -^^y identical with tlio elk of Nortliern Europe. The bull is of great size, weighing frequently, when " gral- loched," from 600 to 700 lbs., or even 800 lbs., say from 40 to GO stone. He sheds the velvet off his horns about the beginning of September; and commences " running " about the middle of that month, remaining with the cows about five or six weeks. He generally has only one or two cows with him, but does not remain with the same for long. At this time of year he usually frequents the thick undergrowth of the Canadian forests abutting on damp, wet ground, and seems perfectly at home in the water. Both the bull and the cow have something comical and antediluvian in their ap- pearance ; but, notwithstanding their great size, their movements are surprisingly rapid, and the the pace at which they can get through the thickest growth is most astonishing. Their senses of sight, smell, and hearing are all very acute, but more especially their hearing ; and it is a matter of the greatest difficulty to get near them, unless a smart wind is blowing to make a stir amongst the branches of the timber. The other ways of "hunting" the moose, besides that to which I have already alluded, are " creeping," or what we should call " stalking " — and " calling." The " creeping" is pursued chiefly in the "fall," or autumn, and consists in walking most carefully, and against the wind, the likely places of the forest, watching narrowly the signs you may come across, such as the foot-tracks, browsing of the shrubs, &c., &c., and looking out sharply for a snap shot. A good Indian can tell to a nicety and with certainty the exact age of each track, the probable size of the beast, how long such a small twig has been browsed, 38 TVa7tderings in the Western Land. &c., &c. When it is deemed that the beast is in close proximity, the utmost caution is necessary; the cracking of a piece of dried stick might " jump " (start) him at any moment, and he would be away without your getting even a sight of him. You may be lucky enough, as was my case, to sight him standing broadside on for a moment, just long enough to get your rifle off, and to know, notAvithstanding '/-%*= THE DEAD MOOSK. From a Sketch hi/ Aliert Bicrstinl/. his rapid disappearance into the densest of thickets, that you were well on him. Ah ! then comes the thrilling joy, the inexpressible feeling of delight, which repays the sportsman for many a bad night and real rough work, when on taking up the track you come first on his blood, and then a little further on his gigantic body, lying prone and helpless ! I need not dilate on the rhapsodies which your hunter and yourself pour out over the fine beast ; nor on Moose '' calling y 39 the interest of tlic after pvocossos of "grallocliing," or " dressing," and the way in which the prized morsels, such as the " rauffel" (or nose), and tongue, &c., are commented upon and packed for that evening's enjoy- ment over the blazing camp-fire. But keen as all this enjoyment is at the time, and enjoyable even now to recall, it is soon over, and a long and severe trudge back to camp, partly in the dark through fallen timber, soon takes off somewhat of its freshness. The third mode of hunting the moose is " calling." This is followed from about the middle of September to the end of the first week in October, the most favourable time of the twenty-four hours being very early in the morning and very late in the evening, when the moon is at her full. I believe that no white man can call well, and that an Indian must always be employed. His instrument is a piece of birch bark, twisted up into the shape of a speaking-trumpet. The call, or cry, is in imitation of that of a cow moose, but it is skilfully varied witli the note, or perhaps " roar," of the bull. The noise made is not unlike what I have occasionally heard from red deer stags, but not the regular roar of the latter. To "call" well is a matter requiring great practice and skill ; and even the Indians themselves vary much in their pro- ficiency. The modus operandi is to take up a posi- tion with your " caller " towards evening, or very early in the morning, in some clearing or " barren " in the forest, taking care tliat the wind shall be coming from that portion of the forest where you think it is most likely that a moose will be. Being tolerably well hidden by brushwood, tlie caller emits one of the prolonged grunts or calls ; if no answer of any sort is made from the neighbouring forest after an interval of ten or fifteen minutes, the pro- 40 WandertJigs in the Western Land. cess is repeated, and so on until tlie calling time is past. If any answer comes, tlie greatest skill has to be displayed by the caller in order to allure the moose within range of the rifle. Should he come out into the open, and get drawn on within one hundred yards, the calling must not be attempted, or he would at once detect the imposi- tion. Sometimes he will stop two hundred or three hundred yards off, and refuse to come any nearer, being what a Highlander would call " sus- peecious ;" then there is nothing for it but to try a steady shot at that distance. This mode of hunting is often very effective, and some sportsmen speak Avith enthusiasm of the ex- citement of it. I have had but little experience of it, and that little brought me no success, so I am but ill able to speak of its enjoyment ; but I must confess that what little I saw did not commend itself to me as a sport. All, except the actual shooting, must depend on your caller. It may be that my judgment of this sport is influenced by the vivid recollection of having become, one warm even- ing late in the " fall," a living victim to perfect swarms of mosquitoes and black flies. It may sound " soft " to care about such trifles when in pursuit of such noble game, but let any one who has not the skin of a pachyderm try for one hour what it is to lie still on a quiet warm autumn evening in a swamp of a Canadian forest, unprotected by gloves or veil, before he gives an opinion, and then I think he will agree with me in acknowledging that he had grown somewhat desirous of a move, and did not care for a repetition of the entertainment. That evening, I remember, even the Indian took it seriously to henri", and proposed an earlier return to N'o oamc — A move. 41 camp than perhaps the prospects of sport (for we had had a reply from a bull moose) fully justified. Glad was I that night to roll my head up under my blanket, the branches of a fine old tree my only pro- tection overhead, and the ground my mattress, but at any rate I was now safe from the savage attack of those venomous pests, whose marks I bore for many a week afterwards. But I have gone ahead some weeks, and must return to our present camp and doings. Dunraven and Dr. Morgan joined me the day after I arrived; but several unsuccessful days' hunting for l)ear, forced us to the conclusion that it was no use trying any longer in this district, and that we had better be off into the neighbouring province of New Bruns- wick, where there are bear, and where, moreover, it is lawful to kill moose and caribou at tliis or any other time of vear. A illCJlAC WIUWAM. FruiH a Sketch l>y A. P. V CHAPTER IV. A key of fire ran all along the shore, And lighten'd all the river with a blaze ; The waken'd tides hegan again to roar, And wondering fish in shining Avater gaze. To every nobler portion of the town The curling billows roll their restless tide ; In parties now they straggle up and down As armies, unopposed, for prey divide. Those who have homes, when home they do repair, To a last lodging call their wandering friends. Their short uneasy sleeps are broke Avith care. To look how near their own destruction tends. Those who have none sit round where once it was, And with full eyes each Avonted room require ; Haunting the yet warm ashes of the place, As murder'd men walk Avhere they did expire. " Annus Mirahilis" Drydeii. Saint John's, IT. B. — The late fire — Extent — Suffering— Destruc- tion of property — The night following — Eelicf incidents — Energy of inhabitants — The St. John's River — Eeminiscenccs of tlie past — Ercdcricton — Cathedral — Houses of Iteprcsonta- tives — Members — Business — The Lumber Trade and Lumber Men. It was tlio first week iu September wlien wc left off hunting in Nova Scotia. The weather was still as warm as summer, and I at least, felt loath to leave Saint Johiis^ New Briinszvick — The Great Fire. 43 the old camp, but having decided, as we thought, for the best, we hurried back to civihzation as speedily as we could. Two days' travelling, partly driving, partly by rail, brought us to the once fine city of Saint John's, New Brunswick, which to distinguish in conversation, from the city of the same name in Newfoundland, has the accent thrown on the " Saint," whilst in the other it is made short. The next morning the rest of my party went on to Fredericton, to make arrangements for a contem- plated canoeing expedition down the great Miramichi river, whilst I remained behind to have a look round at this "burnt-up" city. The " Waverley," the " house," or hotel, we were stopping at, was the only important hostelry which escaped destruction from the terrible fire. I shall not attempt to give more than a very brief account of the fearful calamity to this once prosperous and go-ahead city. Nor can I describe the curiously depressing effect on one's feelings on visiting the hundreds of acres of blackened earth and debris of all sorts, where existed but a few months ago streets and houses alive with thriving industry. The fire commenced about half-past two in the afternoon of the 20th of June of this year (1877), and by eight o'clock in the same evening it was nearly over. In that short time there was not only a considerable loss of life, but such a vast amount of human suffer- ing consequent on the disastrous destruction of house and other property as to be truly heart- rending to hear of. It is believed that between twenty and thirty persons were killed on the spot, and many more seriously injured by falling mate- rials. Nearly two bundled acres of buildings were 44 Wanderings in I he M'e stern Land. destroyed, and nine and a half miles of streets ! the value of this j^roperty and effects is computed at about five and a half million pounds ! 13,000 people are stated to have been made homeless ! ! Let the reader try to conceive what an amount of misery these data mean ! As a sample, one poor woman, who before the calamity was rated on nearly 3000/. worth of property, was now literally without a cent, and dependent solely on charity ! She, like many others, was uninsured, and the general suf- ferings were aggravated by the inability of some of the insurance companies to meet their liabilities at once. The work of destruction was so fearfully and almost supernaturally irresistible that, to use the words of my informant (himself an eye-witness), " It was as if the air itself Avas on fire ; as if there was something unnatural in the atmosphere." Not only were all the wooden houses and structures swept away as if they were straw, but I saw myself great masses of stone and brick buildings in crum- bled dust and ruins. In some cases the blackened brick chimney-stacks stood alone amongst the ghastly debris to mark the site of some of the finest structures the city could boast of. It was curious to observe how much better bricks stood the fearful heat than stone. It would appear as if the stone (principally granite and sandstone) had got pre- viously so heated that when played upon by the water it flew and crumbled to pieces. A fine flight of dressed granite steps had become calcined sand, and some of the most substantial stone structures appeared to have fallen the easiest victims to the sheets of flame. In fact, fanned by a strong north- The Great Fire. 45 west wind, the fire from the very commencement seemed to have defied the efforts of the gallant fire brigade, and to have swept all before it. The insurances are said to have covered about one and a half million pounds sterling of the total loss of five and a half millions. The Dominion Govern- ment Property which was destroyed was stated to be worth 100,000/., and was nninsured. The build- ing of the Bank of British North America escaped in a most wonderful way, having apparently had fire on all sides of it, and was the only "money house " in a condition to resume business the next day. The night of the fire is said to have been a most fearful one. Misery, destitution, helplessness, blank despair, reigned on all sides, and yet there were found even amidst all these horrors, miscreants hardened enough to take advantage of the dreadful visitation, and to plunder the helpless suff'erers. On the other hand, to the credit of human nature be it stated, that no sooner was the fire known abroad than supplies began to pour in from all quarters. More especially did the towns of the United States distinguish them- selves in this good Samaritan work. Everybody and every public company seem to have exerted them- selves to the utmost to alleviate the terrible amount of suffering and misery which ensued, and which would have been intolerable but for the timely assistance so promptly rendered. Relief Committees were organ- ized ; quick trains were placed at the disposal of the authorities by the Intercolonial Railway Company for the instant conveyance of the much needed sup- plies, and perfect order was restored and guaranteed by the arrival of a detachment of regular troops from 46 ]Vandcrings in the Western Laud. Halifax. Then assistance in money began to pour in, and here again the philanthropy of the inhabitants of the United States was remarkable. Chicago, which had herself suffered so fearfully, and so recently from a like disaster sent 4000/., Philadelphia 1200/., and I am told the amount from Boston was not less than 11,000/. The Dominion Government contributed 4000/., and the town of Halifax 2000/. Besides these there came smaller amounts from the old country, from Glasgow, Liverpool, and Manchester. At the present time — the month of August — many small wooden shanties have sprung up here and there on the blackened ruins, in which business is being temporarily carried on, and many fine struc- tures of brick and stone are being rapidly erected; but one cannot help shuddering to see that wood is still used very largely in the construction of the new buildings. Surely this — " the Great Fire " — with the three or four large ones which have occurred in pre- vious years, must have taught them a lesson. And so it has to a certain extent, for the Insurance Companies refuse now to insure wood, but it is said that the mass of the people are so poor that they cannot afford brick or stone, and that therefore they are forced to rebuikl their wooden habitations. Merci- fully a plentiful supply of water is always at hand, and the water's edge seems to have been the only defined line of arrest to the sweeping flame in the present instance. Many must have been the incidents of excitement and agony of mind during that short but awful reign of fire. The landlord of my hotel himself must have had rather a mauvais quart cVheure. He was absent on his farm a few miles from the city when the fire The Great Fire — T/ic St. John River. 47 bi'oke out; tlie second in command got all the horses out of the stables, which were threatened by the fire, and drove as hard as he could to the land- lord, and told him that " St. John's was in flames." Our host's feeliuo-s were not to be envied during the fourteen miles' drive back to the city. He did not know but that his all — namely, his house and stock in trade, which were entirely uninsured — might not be a blackened mass of rains by the time he c^-ot back. Three times did the flames attack and actually ignite his well-built brick house, and three times did the gallant gang of workmen repulse the enemy. In front and in rear the fire raged, but this building stood comparatively uninjured. At last the battle was won, and my host has been able to drive a thriving trade ever since in his well-tried edifice, and is one of the very few gainers by this awful calamity. It will of course be some time before this city can quite recover, but such is the indomitable perse- verance, the latent vitality, of these young towns on this side of the Atlantic, that its restoration will be far more rapid than we could believe possible in the old country. I am told that the population of about 40,000 is not believed to have decreased since the fire, but that it has accommodated itself to the cir- cumstances by packing closer, only awaiting the erection of buildings to expand itself again, probably with redoubled energy. I was glad to leave this now melancholy city. Its situation is not only beautiful by nature, but is also well adapted for a large commercial centre. The splendid river St. John, here more than eighty yards across, is the great channel of 48 IVando'iii^s in the Western Land. commerce from the interior. Down it are brought masses of both Canadian and United States timber or " lumber." Wharves, constructed of piles, line both the St. John's and the Carleton bank, and the harbour exhibits a forest of masts, which testify in a marked manner to the importance of this port. The suburb of Carleton on the rio-ht bank of the sfreat river (formerly called the " Richelieu ") is connected with St. John's proper by a fine suspension bridge 200 yards long, which cost 16,000/. to erect. Being about one hundred feet above the water, a grand view is obtained from it. At the entrance of the harbour is Partridge Island, forming a magnifi- cent natural breakwater to the heavy ocean swells. The tide rises and falls as much as thirty feet, which is a great preventive to the accumulation of ice. The city of St. John's claims to be the fourth largest port of commerce in the British Empire, coming only after London, Liverpool, and Glasgow. The two great sources of commercial prosperity seem to be shipbuilding and the timber or lumber trade. The most busy time of the latter is from April to July inclusive, but at all seasons plenty of evidence is to be seen of its importance in the voyage up the river from St. John's to Fredericton. Large rafts of logs are formed early in the season in different places, and then as soon as the depth of Avater will allow, they are towed by small steamers to the numerous saw mills. Often the surfiice of the river (in some*, places more than a mile across) is literally covered with sailing boats of from twenty to thirty tons, carrying deals in their holds, and such a deck caroo as would excite the indignation of Mr. The SL John River — Trade — Scenery— Old times. 49 Plimsoll. Nevertlieless tlioy seem to make capital weather with their handy fore and aft sails, and are admirably adapted for the trade. 0\ TnE ST. JOHN RIVEK, N.l!. From Sketches by A. P. T. LUMBER BOATS AND RAFT. For some little distance after leaving St. John's when bound up the river to Fredericton, the banks continue high and picturesque. Here and there precipitous limestone rocks start sheer out of the water, covered with a luxuriant growth of firs and underwood. Gradually as we ascend the banks become flatter, and the scenery same and unin- teresting. Many settlements are to be seen on both sides, some of them having quite an ancient appearance. St. John's was founded by the French at the commencement of the seventeenth century, and E 50 Wanderings in the Western Land. the banks of the river were no doubt very rapidly settled from this centre. In old times, before the days of steamers, the British troops quartered at Fredericton used to be conveyed up the river from St. John's in large rowing "flats " called " durhams," with about twenty oars in each. The distance (eighty miles) used to be accomplished in two or three days, the soldiers camping on the banks oi route. My informant was seventy-eight years of age, and old enough to remember those days which ho recalled with evident pleasure. The water of the river is blackish, as if it contained much peat, but such was the effect of a bright sun and a clear sky after a heavy thunder shower, that at one time during our short voyage it looked quite blue. The soil in the vicinity of the river is very rich alluvial, with scarcely any stones. So fine and loamy is it, that, as my informant expressed it, "you could not find a rock big enough to heave at a robin." Why a robin (which by-the-bye is no robin, but a. blackbird) should be "heaved at" did not tran- spire, but it clearly illustrated the fineness of the soil. On an ordinary season it is said to grow two tons of hay per acre. Fredericton is reached from St. John's by the steamer in about eight hours, and by rail in some- what less. It is a very taking, clean-looking little town of about six thousand inhabitants. Notwith- standing its very inferior size to St. John's, it is the seat of the Government of the Province of New Brunswick, and possesses a Cathedral, a Govern- ment House, and Houses of Parliament. These last are of no exterior beauty, but of them and their contents more anon. The cathedral is a very pretty Fi'cdcridon — Houses of Representatives. 5 1 Gothic building of the native sandstone, erected about twenty-five years ago. The seats and wood- work of the interior are of " butternut " wood, a sort of walnut of much repute in this country. The present bishop (Dr. Medley) has held the appoint- ment for thirty-two years, and is much respected. The stained glass of the windows was the only drawback to the general pleasing effect of the in- terior ; it was of that light, dazzling, unsubstantial character, of which so much is to be seen in France. Parliament was now in session, but it was a special session to deal with the difficulties arising from the conflagration at St. John's ; the regular session being usually from the 1st of February to the middle of April. The hours at which the Houses sit are far more sensible, in a sanitary point of view at any rate, than are ours in the old country; for they meet at ten a.m. and sit till one p.m., when they adjourn for the day, unless business is very pressing, when they have a short sitting after tea at six p.m. Both the Upper and Lower Houses hold their sittings in one building of insignificant appearance ; the Upper House occupy- ing the room exactly above the Lower. The Upper House, I am told, consists of some fourteen or six- teen members selected by the Government ; they have generally been members of the Lower House who have been of service to the Government. The Lower House consists of forty members elected by the constituencies. I heard the Upper House go through a Bill in Committee, and can only say that in expedition they emulated successfully their English compeers. The Province of New Brunswick sends nineteen E 2 IVanderiups in the Western Land. •a. members to the Dominion Parliament at Ottawa. It is a cause of complaint here that the maritime in- terests of New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, and Prince Edward's Island, are swamped in the Dominion Par- liament by the overwhelming number of members from the agricultural provinces of Central and Western Canada. The members of the Provincial Parliament ap- peared contented, hard-working, shrewd, and most loyal, and well calculated to deal with the local interests of a young and developing country. We spent some few days in Frederic ton laying in fresh stores, purchasing canoes, and engaging In- dians preparatory to a canoeing exj^edition. But before leaving this great lumber river, I must say a few words on that trade of which so much is to be seen around on all the big rivers of this country. Most of the trees made use of for lumber are of the fir tribe, for although there are many others, such as birch, maple, &c., wdiich come into the market, yet the logs, deals, and battens cut from the coniferce form the chief staple of the trade. My informant was a very intelligent merchant of Cornish descent. His principal business v^as supplying the lumber camps with flour and the other necessary stores for their winter campaigns. For the infor- mation of the uninitiated, I must explain some of the local and technical terms. By " lumber " is meant timber; a "lumber man" is one who cuts or " chops " the lumber during the winter, and later on takes his j)art in the various subsequent processes on the streams and main river; a "lumber camp" is the log hut or huts in which the lumber men live or " locate " themselves during the winter operations. TJic LiLDiber Trade. 53 About the month of October experienced men are sent out into the forests exploring, or to use their own term "cruising;" their object being, in the first place, to find suitable lumber for choppi:io-; and, secondly, that it shall be in such a locality as to make it remunerative to get it to a market. Having selected a suitable site — generally a district abounding with large spruce, and in near proximity to a good stream of water — they return to civilization, and enter into negotiations with those to whom the timber belongs. The Government, or a Railway Company are usually the proprietors, the latter re- ceiving it as a grant for making a line through that part of the countiy. An arrangement having been entered into, about November a suitable place for a camp is selected, and to this spot a rough road is made through the forest. Then a log hut is built to accommodate as many men as are going to " ope- rate" during the winter — sometimes as many as eighty men are located in one place — and to this encampment stores of flour, tea, coffee, tobacco, molasses, salt pork, &c,, are forthwith hauled. In old times there was an open fire in the middle of each hut, but nowadays a stove is used instead. Every chink and crevice is caulked as tight as possible, so that when the door is closed with all the occupants inside, and wet clothes are being dried around the parching hot stove, the atmosphere had better be imagined than described. By the begin- ning of December all is ready for the lumber men, who at once take up their abodes in the encampments, most of them not revisiting civilization till late in the following spring. The spruce they fell is generally chopped, so as 54 Wanderings tn the Western Land. to measure not less than ten inches diameter at the small end, and to lengths of from twenty to forty feet. These logs are hauled over the surface of the hard sno^y to the "browse," which is the bank overhano-ino- the stream down which the timber is to be " driven " or floated when the ice breaks up in the spring. Piles of logs are here formed by driving in very strong retaining posts and heaping up the lumber against these in such a manner that when the uprights are cut away the whole pile shall be free. When released it crashes madly down the hillside into the stream below. These operations of felling, hauling, and stacking go on all the winter months. When the spring comes and the ice breaks up, the lumber camps are abandoned and the " browses " are let ffo. The lumber is then "driven" or floated down the smaller streams into the main rivers, such as the St. John, Miramichi, &c. Here it is stopped and gathered into what are called " boombs ;" these are bays of the river shut off from the rest by large " boombs " or logs of timber chained together, and made fast to the shore at one end and to a mooring at the other with the opening up stream. From these depots, rafts, or, as they are called here, "joints" are formed, Avhicli arc towed down by steamers to the various saw mills on the banks of the river. These rafts contain usually about 5000 cubic feet of timber ; a steamer may have as much as a million cubic feet in tow at one time. In the saw mills the logs arc cut up into " deals," that is, planks three inches thick, and seven, nine, and eleven inches in width ; if less than seven inches they are called " battens." The thin ends cut off The Liimder Ti'ade. 55 from the tops of tlio trees are split up into " laths " for building purposes. I fear the foregoing description is dry, but it is difficult to make it otherwise. The operations themselves, however, are not without excitement, and even danger. Two of them are really very ticklish, involving risk to life and limb. The first of these is, cutting away the uprights which retain the browse, when it sometimes happens that the browse comes away before the unfortunate lumber-man can escape on one side, and then he must inevitably be smashed amongst the masses of rolling logs, tearing wildly down the hill into the stream below. Sometimes it happens that the operation is so evidently hazardous that the lumber- man is let down from above by a rope and pulley. The other dangerous operation is when what is called a "jam" occurs in driving or floating the lumber down the smaller streams. This happens when logs get caught in an obstruction and gradually form a barrier, which stops the further progress of the floating lumber in rear. Then comes into play the services of a not only very active man, but one well skilled and experienced in the work which has to be done. He finds out first of all the offending logs which cause the " jam," and then sets to work with his axe to cut them away. Of a sudden the mass is freed. To fling his axe away, and skip for dear life to the shore, jumping like a cat from log to log as they spin and whirl down the stream, is the work of a few seconds ; but even surprisingly nimble as he is, he sometimes finds that he cannot reach the shore before the mass is on him, and he is driven to take the last chance of plunging into the water and 56 Wanderings in the Western Land. diving underneath the surging mass, allowing it to pass over him. Should he get hit by a log his fate is sealed. Yet with all these risks and dangers, and the dis- comfort of being shut off from his friends and civilization for a great portion of the year, the life of the lumber-man is most popular. In fact, it is a common complaint that it is difficult to get any young man to take to anything else, and that agri- culture suffers in consequence. The lumber-man's wages are not excessive for America, varying from $14 to $18 (2/. I65. to 3/. 12s.) per month, everything except clothes and tools being found. The life itself must be a very healthy one, for it would be difficult to find their equals in strength, activity, and endurance. I should say they would average about five feet eight inches in height, and would weigh between eleven and twelve stone right through. What a fine, raw material for soldiers we have here ! Accustomed as they have been all their lives to roughing it, the labours of a campaign would come to them not only quite naturally, but as an actual enjoyment. Should it be the misforf.une of the British empire ever to be involved in a vital war, I feel sure that a Canadian contingent would prove a most important addition, and that it would leave its mark on the nation's history. ^^^«^_,^- STEAMEK TOWING RAFT OF LUMBER. ON THE MIEAMICHI." From a Sketch by A. P. V. CHAPTER V. " And the forest life "was in it, All its mystery and its magic ; All the lightness of the birch tree, All the toughness of the cedar. All the larch's supple sinews ; And it floated in the river. Like a yellow leaf in autumn, Like a yellow -water lily." Lonr/fellow's " Iliaicatha," vii. Start for our canoeing trijD — Indian Birchbark Canoes — Disaster — Across to the head waters of the Miramichi — Glashville — Hard- ships of its early settlers — Gray's IMill — McE wing's — Afloat — Beaver — Bear Incident — Camp-making iu the dark — Slow Wanderino;s in the Western Land. '