"-?>, •0^ ■^ -^^0^ ^0 v^^ ^^11^; ^^'^^ ^^^,. <:^ ^^9- ^. '•>' ^:/^9■ * 1/ N* ^popular Resorts. AN^D HOW TO REACH THEM. '>^r>'", POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. COMBINING A BRIEF DESCKIPTION OF THE PEINCIPAL SUMMER EETREATS IN THE UNITED STATES, ROUTES OF TRAVEL LEADING TO THEM. JOHN b: bachelder, Author of "The Illustrated Tourixtt:' Giiirle," " Getttisihurii, What to see, and How to see it,' "The Isometrical Draioing of the Getti/sbwrj Battlefield," "Descriptive Key to the I'aintiiiii of Longstreet's Assault at Gcttysburn," Designer of the Jitstorical Paintings of the Battle of Gettysburg, Last Hours of Lincoln, &c. '1^1 HOJ' Illustrated bg ®ne f^unUrcK antr SfiUvMba fflJIoott^Citts BY THE UKST ENGEAVEKS, MANY OF THEM FROM ORIGINAL SKETCHES BY THE AUTUOB. ^^''■ BOSTON: \^^/^/NG'^SX JOHN B. BACHELDER, PUBLISHER. 41-45 Franklin Street. (At liCe & Shepard's.) 1875. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the yeai' 1875, by JOHN B. BACHELDER, In tlie Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. Boston : Electrotyped and Printed sr Rand, Avery, & Co. PREFACE TO THIRD EDITION P^ACH 3-ear adds to the popularity of summer travel. The vaca- tion fever returns annually with " the season," and custom de- mands that ever}' well-to-do family prepare for it. No class of society is exempt. The mechanic and merchant, the banker and clerk, the student and professional man, are alike affected by its seductive influences, and, in the pleasure it brings, seek that respite from the cares of life which exhausted nature requires. To know how to travel is a matter of great importance to the tourist. Many persons pass unheeding by the pictui-esque beauties of a pleasant route, expecting to find awaiting them at the end of their journey, the combined pleasures which others have described. In some instances the points to be visited are places of celebrity, but the route of approach lies through an uninteresting region. This is the case with many of our ocean watering-places. In others, as much pleasure may be derived en route as from the resort itself. This is particularly' true of mountain travel, Avliere every turn opens up new and interesting scenes. AVliere a single excursion is to be made for the season, it is a matter of imi)ortance for the tourist to select an objective }joint and a route of travel, the peculiarities of which are congenial to his tastes. Public resorts which may furnish abundant sources of pleasure to one person frequently present little of interest to an- other. While one would be satisfied with a single day at the sea- shore, another would never tire of watching the waves break upon a rock-bound coast. The waving forests, the rugged grandeur of the mountains, and the deepening mystery of the glens, which to many prove sources of great delight, for others have no attractions. Hence the importance of carefully choosing desirable "Popular Resorts, and Routes to Reach Them." 3 PKEFACE TO THIKD EDITION. Of all the celebrated watering-places on the coast, the famous springs, or the frequented mountain-houses, no two are alike, yet each localit}' possesses an individual interest, and finds its pa- trons ; and the routes which lead to them have their attractions, either in the safety* and comforts afforded the traveller, or in the I)icturesque beauty of the region through which the^- pass. It is to la}' this subject clearl}- before the public that tliose pages with their illustrations are presented ; thus enabling tlie tourist to choose in advance the character of scene he would visit. The favorable reception of the two former editions of this work, and the universal request of patrons for its continuance, have determined the author to publish annnaUi/ a volume devoted ex- clusively to the interests of travel, which shall give not only gen- eral information regarding the "Popular Resorts, and How to Reach Them," but furnish a standard medium through which proprietors or agents, who represent houses or loutes, may describe or illus- trate the merits of their respective interests. Tlie illustrated routes have been generally pre[)ared from sketches and notes taken on the spot by the compiler of this volume ; while tlie " item " notices have either been written expressly for it, or compiled from the best published accounts. It should be distinctly understood tliat this volume is not, and does not claim to be, a Guide-Boole. It is rather a Gazetteku oij" Pleasure Travel ; and, although it ma^- give much useful infor- mation, it is not intended to take the [ilace of a guide. For the details of travel, the tourist is advised to secure a current number of the Traveller's Official Guide, — or " Oflicial Time Tables," an abbreviation of it, if a more compact book is desired. The author here takes occasion to thank those wlio responded to his circular invitation for data. Brief descriptions of oilier re- sorts are requested for the next edition, the compilation of which has already been commenced. In view' of the Centenniid Anniversary at Philadelphia in 187G, special attention will be given to illustrated pleasure routes lead- ing from eveiy section of the country to that city, and the imme- diate attention of persons interested in such routes is invited. The Autiiou. COI^TE]:^TS. Summer Recreation . Pedestrianisin Equestrianism Wagon Ridiiij Camping out. Harbor and Coastwise Excursions Hints to Tourists Boston Mountains N(!\v' llampsliire Mountains . White Mountains , lloutes of Approach Francouia Mountains . Pleasure Route No. 1. Bostoii, Concord, and Montreal Railroad .... Stage Route from Plymouth to tlie Francouia Moiuilaius. PAGE. . 13 . 13 . 15 . 17 . 18 . 21 . 23 . 25 . 26 . 27 . 28 . 31 . 32 33 . 33 . 49 Pleasure Route Xo. 2. 63 Passumpsic and .South-Eastern Railroad 63 Pleasure Route No. 3. E.QStern Railroad To tlie Interior PivEASURE Route No. 4. Boston and Maine Railroad Portland and Vicinity Portland, Bangor, and Machias Steamboat Company Mount Desert Up the Penobscot ...» Pleasure Route No. 5. Portland and O^densburg Railway .... 66 66 70 73 73 75 78 78 79 80 80 North Conway 85 5 O CONTENTS. PAGE. Pleasure Eoute No. 6. 92 Grand Trunk Railway 92 Pleasure Route No. 7. 94 Maine Central Railway 94 Eastern Provinces 96 Pleasure Route No. 8. 97 Old Colony Railroad 97 Old Colony Steamboat Company 105 Pleasure Route No. 9. 108 Excursion to Oak BlufTs and Katama 108 Pleasure Route No. 10. 119 Central Termont Railroad 119 Pleasure Route No. 11. 126 Shore Line . 126 Pleasui{e Route No. 12. 131 Stonington Line 131 Middle States 133 New York City 133 Pleasure Route No. 13. 134 Up the Hudson 134 Catskills. — ApiH-oacIi from Kingston Station 137 " " " Catskill " 139 Pleasure Route No. 14. 142 Central Railroad of New Jersey, North Pennsylvania, Albany and Sus- quehanna, Rensselaer and Saratoga, and New York and Canada 2 Railroads 14 North Pennsylvania Railroad 142 Pennsylvania Scenery 144 Central Railroad of New Jersey 145 Delaware and Hudson Canal Company's Railroads .... 169 Saratoga Springs 175 Lake George 177 " Cliamplain 178 New York to Long Branch . . 182 CONTEJVTS. 7 PAGE. Pleasure Route No. 15. 193 New York Central and Hudson River Railroad 115 Black River Railroad I95 Rome, Watertowii, and Ogdeushurg Railroad 19G Pleasukk Route No. 16. 204 Erie Railway 204 Atlantic and Great Western Railway 210 Philadelphia 211 Pleasure Route No. 17. 214 Philadelphia and Reading Railroad 214 Long Branch . 231 Pleasure Route No. 18. 232 Cape May 232 Pleasure Route No. 19. 233 Philadelphia, Wilmington, and Baltimore Railroad .... 233 Pleasure Route No. 20. 239 Fortress Monroe 239 ' Pleasure Route No. 21. 242 Pennsylvania Railway 242 Branch Roads 254 Pleasure Route No. 22. 255 Baltimore and Potomac and Northern Central Railways . . . 256 Southern States 268 Virginia 268 Richmond 270 Pleasure Route No. 23. 272 Chesapeake and Ohio Railroad 272 Passage of the Alleghany 279 Pleasure Route No. 24, 289 Atlantic Coast Line . . 289 Pleasure Route No. 25. 294 Piedmont Air Line 294 8 CONTENTS. PAGE. Pleasure Route No. 26. 391 dreat Southern Mail Route 301 Pleasuke Route No. 27. 808 Louisville and Great Southern Route 308 Mammoth Cave 309 Western States . 314 Pleasure Route No. 28. 315 drand Rapids and Indiana Railroad 315 Beyond Chicago 318 Pleasure Route No. 29. 320 Chicajro and North-Western Railroad 320 Wisconsin 329 Chicago and St. Paul Line 332 Minnesota 334 Pleasure Route No. 30. 337 Chicago, Burlington, and Quincy Railroad 337 Pleasuiie Route No. 31. 340 Union and Central Pacific Railroads ■ . . 340 Dakota 340 Colorado 349 Montana 341 Utah 344 Idaho 344 California ■ 345 h 1ST OF IlLUSTP^^TIONS. Froxtispiece, Popular Resorts 2 Trout. Fi^hin;^ 14 Out-of-Door Life 1(5 Camp Stove 17 Caini>in;.; Out 19 Pleasure(V) Ti-avol in the Olden Time 22 Lake ami iMonntain Srenery 2G AVliire Mouulaiui 29 Lowell anil Na-;liua Depot, Boston 34 Hooksett FallA, N.H » 36 Tilton, N.H 38 Laconia, N.H 40 View near Lake Village, N.H 41 Weir's Laiiiliiii?, Lake Wiiinepesaukee, N.H 42 Steamer " Lady of tlieLuke" 44 lva,i^;;(!d Mountain, and Lon<; Poml 45 Plymouth, N.H. . 4(i 3'emi;;ewaiset House 47 Livennore Falls N.H 48 Owl's Head and JMoojilauke Mount, N.H 50 Littleton, N.H 52 Lar.castei', N.H 54 Bethlehem Station, N.H 50 Maplewood Hotel, N.H 57 Twin IMonntain House, N.H 58 Fa'i)yan House, NH 60 Ammonoo-mc Falls, N.H 61 Mount Wadiin.Ljton Railway, N.H 62 Boar's Heail, N.H. . . ' 68 Portland, INIe 74 Fahnouth Hou'^e, Me 75 Unirel States Hotel, Me 76 AVhite Head Cliff, Portland Harbor 77 Portland Li.u;ht 79 Seba^o Lake ^^ 10 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Conway Elms . 85 Mt. Kiarsarge, N.H. . 86 Diana's Baths, N.H. 87 Silver Cascade, N.H. 89 AVliite Mountain Notch Jones Lake 167 Wyoming House, Penn 168 Cave House, N.Y . 172 Summer Life at North Mountain Hotise, Penn 183 Wild Woods 185 Ganoga Falls, Penn. 187 Mountain Stream 188 North Mountain View 190 LIST OF ILLUSTIiATIONS. 11 Forest Life 192 TlKJUsand Island House, N.Y 19() Moonlight 203 Falls Village Bridge, Penn 212 Columbia Bridge, Penn. . ... 214 Sclniylkill River, Penn 215 Valley Forge, Penn. 21(5 Schuylkill Iliver, above Pottstown, Penn 217 Mount Carbon, Penn 220 Little Schuylkill Iliver, J'enn 221 Mahanoy Plane, Penn 222 Brookside, Penn 223 Herndon, Susquehanna Elver, Penn 224 ^Slainville Water Gap, Penn 227 Catawissa, Penn. ... • 228 Marine View, — Coal Transport 230 Strawberry Culture, Del. 233 Peach Gathering, Del 234 Cristiield, Md. : Oyster Shipment, Del. . . . ' . . . . 235 llidley Station, Md 236 Residence of F. O. C. Darley, Esq., Md 237 Mount Ararat, ]Md 238 Hygeia Hotel, Va . 240 Marine View 241 Coatesville Bridge, Penn. 242 Connecting Itailroad Bridge, Penn 243 Bryn Mawr, Penu 244 International Exhibition Building, Penn 245 Fairnujunt Park, Peun 24(> Hestonville, Peun 247 Ardinore Station, Penn 249 Juniata River, Penn 251 Logan House, Penn. . . . ■ 252 j\Iountaiu House, Penn 253 Washington, D.C 255 Baltimore Tunnel, Md 256 Night Train 257 Susquehanna River 258 Harrisburg, Penn 259 Renova House, Penn 2fi0 Dutchman's Run, Penn 261 Empire Fall, N.Y 263 Rainbow Falls, N.Y 264 Hector Falls, N.\' 265 Watkins Glen, N.Y 266 Seneca Lake, N.Y 267 University of Virginia 269 Earthworks on the Chickahouiiny, Va. 270 Commissary Department 272 Mountain Tunnel, Va 275 12 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Kockbridge Ahnn Springs, Va. Griffith's Knob, Cowpasture River, Va Falling Spring Falls, Va. Greenbrier White Snlphnr Springs, W. Start down the Greenbrier, W. Va. rdclanond Falls, New River, W. Va. ■Whiteonib's Bowlder, Va. Knnning New Pdver Kapids, W. Va. Miller's Ferry, Va Charleston, "W. Va Huntington, Ohio .... Storm at Sea Green Lake, "Wis Pleasant Valley .... Night Express Giant Geyser, Mon Crystal Cascade, Mon. . Va. 270 277 278 280 282 283 284 285 280 287 288 300 327 339 338 342 '343 SUMMER RECREATION, The custom of setting apart a few weeks or months of the year as a respite from labor is fast i^aining popularity; and each season adds to the number of those who leave tlieir daily cares behind, and seek rest and recuperation for mind and body among the hills and deep green woods of the country, or at the sea-shore, bathing in surf or sunlight, and cooled by the invigorating breezes of the sea. Thosa whom fortune has favored can devote the season to travel, visit- ing in succession the rare natural wonders with which the countiy is stored. Such have only to select the points of interest, and the most pleasing routes by which they may be visited. A far larger number, however, choose some desirable and healthful locality where they may secure the desired change and rest, at cheaper rates even than they could remain at home. Both classes will find in this book abundant directions for their guidance. But the following chapter is devoted to another class, who, from economy or adventure, choose more freedom in their movements. I refer to the pedestrian, equestrian, and camping-out party. There is ?. certain age when young men glory in pedestrianism, and st>e in it a source of great pleasure. A few years later the same parties will prefer a horse to facilitate their movements; and, later yet, a carriage will be required to complete their happiness. As our army of young men is constantly recruited from the ranks of the home- guard of boys, and as the " wheels of time " as surely graduate these youth into manhood, it is proposed to treat briefly each of these som-ces of recreation. PEDESTRIANISM. "When the place for " camping-out " has been determined on, the mode of travel will come up for discussion : this, of course, will be largely determined by the place chosen for camp, and the length of time it is to be occupied. If it is to be permanent, it matters little how the place is reached. But there is another manner of camping-out, combining with it pedestrianism or equestrianism, by which the advantages of tour and camp are combined; and this, when the party are physically able to 13 14 POPULAB KESOBTS, AND HOW TO BEACH THEM. endure it, will be found a source of great enjoyment, particularly if an interesting country be selected. Eight or ten miles per day, at early morning and late evening, can easily be made, which will sum up quite a trip during the season. There is a romantic novelty connected with an excursion of this kind, which commends it to the adventurous. Much of the enjoyment, however, will depend upon the similarity of tastes, and physical endurance of the party. The " best fellow in the v/orld," socially, would soon become unendurable if he "broke down" every day on the march. '^'^'^u.u.V "iM^P ,^ — ;» ^ TROUT FISHING. How delightful the sport in early morn, when the clear air resounds with the songster's happy note, and a roseate hue tips the mountain top ; or at quiet eve, when the last rich golden rays of the sun struggle to pierce the overhanging boughs, — to cast the alluring fly, and land the gamey trout! And what a tempting dish it forms, caught and cooked by your own hands, seasoned by a good appetite and the excitement of adventure ! POPULAIi UKSOJtTS, AND HOW TO KEACH THEM. 15 Pedestrianism determined on, it is of the gi-eatest importance to reduce the stock of clothing and equipment to actual necessities, for "every ounce becomes a pound" at the end of a long jaunt. A frequent error of the novice in tramping tours, is to choose new and elaborately equipped knapsacks, heavy rifles or fowling-pieces, with patent am- munition and fishing-tackle, the accumulation of which soon becomes burdensome, and the pleasure of the excursion is spoiled. Fortunately nearly every one can get valuable hints on the subject of out-of-door life from men of army experience. Strong shoes and clothing are im- l)ortant. A change of socks and underclothes, and a rubber and woollen blanket, will be required. The three sides of a shelter tent, divided among a party of three, can be taken. A wire bread-toaster for broiling game or meat, a coffee-pot, with tin plates and drinking-cups, knives and forks, a hatchet, and pocket-compass, complete the outfit; and all weigh but a few pounds. Select a liglit game-bag or haversack, in jilace of the heavier knapsack. It is not only lighter, but can be carried with more freedom. A cape made of oiled silk, or glazed muslin, reaching to the hands, will be found very serviceable. It is light, and, when not in use, takes but little more space than a handkerchief, and is a complete protection against showers by day, or dampness at night. Milk, bread, &c., can always be purchased from the farmers; coffee and crackers at the stores. Unless hunting be intended as a specialty, rifles or fowling- pieces should be left at home. A Smith and Wesson sixteen -inch pistol with a detaclied stock weighs but a few ounces, and for ordinary tours will answer all requirements. Fish hooks and lines should be taken, but a rod can be improvised for the occasion. A valise containing additional changes of clothing can be forwarded from point to point. The expense of an excursion of this kind will be found to be surprisingly small. EQUESTUIAXISM. In many respects the comforts and pleasures of an excursion will be increased if the party are mounted. Uninteresting sections can be (juickly passed, and additional clothing and equipments can be taken. With a coil of rope to picket the horse, he will secure his own living, with the addition of oats purchased by the way. The camp should be pitched where cedar or hemlock boughs for beds can be had. Another very popular plan with pedestrians is to hire a horse and wagon to draw the baggage, cooking utensils, tent, blankets, clothing, &c. ; and a larger supply can then be taken. Each of the party may become driver in tui'n. It also saves delay in case of the illness of one of their number, who may still be able to play the part of driver. This plan possesses many advantages, and is worthy of consideration. OUT-OF-DOOR LIFE. On Ihe line of the Erie Railway, near Rock City, N.Y. POPULAK KESdltTS, AND HOW TO HKACII TUKM. 17 WAGON HIDING. There is still another mode of travel for summer tourists which com- bines the 2>leasures of those already described, and possesses many additional advantages; namely, a good roomy covered wagon with curtains to l)e rolled up at the sides, in which all can ride, take their cooking utensils, tent, valises, guns, fishing-tackle, sketching-nuitei-ials, ike. A good pair of horses, and an experienced cook for driver and •• man of all work," will complete the outfit. Such a party can be always at home, can camp for a few days on the banks of some beautiful stream or lake, or where the scenery, fishing, hunting, or berries invite tiiem to tarry. Last summer the wiiter met such a party from Wilkes Harre, encamped on the shores of Highland Lake, on the summit of North Mountain, Pennsylvania (see illustrated entagonal, and opens like an um- lirella; is covered wit) i striped canvas; the walls can be wholly or par- tially removed at pleasure. It lias a folding centre-table, if desired, and is made of three sizes, accommodating from six to a dozen persons; yet it can be pitched or struck in ten minutes, and weighs but fifty pounds. A valuable adjunct to tliis tent is the lately invented camp-stove, sold by H. L. Duncklee, 87 Blackstone ■j^^^ ».10P55"JBB"^ Street, Boston, which for its com- ,^ ^f ^j" 'I'B^-IE-^/ pactness, and the many coiiven- ^1". i II ItilA iences it combines, should have been named mullum in firirm. CAMP-STOVE (OPEN). OAMP-STUVE {lI.dSED). The accomi)anying illustrations re])resent the stove and furniture, both open, and packed ready for transportation. 18 POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. In addition to the stove and detached oven, with a capacity for baking a turkey or fifteen pounds of beef, is an eight-quart kettle, six-quart tea- kettle, two-quart coffee-pot, fry-pan, two square and one round pans, a dipper, gridiron, tent-collar, and eight feet of telescope funnel. The ware is so constructed that it nests, and packs in the oven. The oven and funnel pack inside the stove, still leaving room for a half-dozen plates, cups, knives, and forks, &c. The stove and furniture complete weighs but twenty-seven pounds, and may be purchased for fifteen dollars. With such a tent and cooking apparatus how cosily a camping-out party may live, either at the mountains or sea-shore ! Such a scene is repre- sented on the shores of "Jones Lake." (See Index.) There is still another species of camping-out which should be mentioned. I refer to the real camp of the explorer, the hunter, or adventurer. There is, extending from. Canada to Mexico, a border of wild partially explored country, which affords a field rich in adventure for all who choose to visit it. There the camp is a real necessity, the requirements of which it behooves all who propose such an excursion, to study thoroughly before embarking. There are so many interesting localities on our frontier to visit that one can hardly go amiss; perhaps, however, there are none more attractive than the Yellowstone region of the North-west, the great " National Park," as it has been aptly termed ; or the new State of Colorado with its " Garden of the Gods," its mighty cafions, &c. Here will be found in perfection those elements of grandem* in outline, and sublimity in effect, which please the eye, and gratify the senses. The comparatively small number that choose these distant fields of adventure will usually select their grounds from information outside this volume, while the thousands who go into camp nearer home may consult its pages. To such, a few additional suggestions may be in place. The seacoast and lake shores present unusual facilities for this mode of summer recreation, inasmuch as the lines of railway which usually skirt the water's edge afford convenient and cheap transportation and means of access. It is no new feature that the writer seeks to introduce into summer amusements, for thousands practise it every season ; but it is the desire to show those who have never tried it how simple and enjoyable this recreation is. During the " season " of 1874, while visiting summer resorts in differ- ent sections of the country, we saw camping-out parties at and in the vicinity of a large number of them. On the shores and islands of Lake Winnepesaukee several parties encamped for the season ; and both there and at Lake George they remained until the autumn frost had tinged the foliage. POPULAK KESOBTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 1<) And so at numerous other pleasant localities, and along the routes lead- ing to them, parties were seen who had chosen this mode of recreation. Beyond all question, the most delightful and healthful way to spend one's summer vacation is in "camping out," provided the weather is reasonably pleasant. A time of storm is gloomy enough, whatever the mode chosen for enjovment. CAMPING OUT. In "camping out," all the stiff formalities of conventional life are put aside. The body is left free for any sort of dress except fashiona- ble styles; and the mind is in constant and cheery repose, and there- fore able to enjoy life with the keenest zest. Health comes to the inva- lid, with its building-up force of a sharp and eager appetite ; and the strong feel an electric energy, daily renewed, unknown in great cities and marts of trade. In fact, while the visitor to thronged summer-re- sorts often returns home worn and wearied, the sojourner of the camp comes back increased in his avoirdupois, his strength, and his sense o£ having had a " glorious " vacation. 20 I'OPULAB KESOKTS, ANO HOW TO KEACH THEM. "Camping out" means a sort of woodman's or frontier life. It means Ii\^ing in a tent; sleeping on boughs or leaves; cooking yotir own meals; washing your own dishes, and clothes perhaps ; getting up your own fuel; making your own fire; and foraging for your own provender. It means activity, variety, novelty, and fun alive ; and the more you have ' of it, the more you like it ; and the longer you stay, the less willing you are to give it up. In fact, there is no glory for the summer tourist, to compare with the " camping-out " glory. For preparation, you will first know where your camp is to be, and what it affords for your pleasure. And you will scarcely make your party less than thi'ee, nor more than five. 11' the number exceeds five, it will be better to pitch two distinct camps at some distance apait, and thus have pleasant "neighbors" to visit, and hospitable parties to give, each to the other. Guns and fishing tackle carefully prepared for use will, of course, be required for localities where game and fish abound; and few places would be selected Avliere one or the other, at least, would not be accessible. Two gi-and essentials should be thoughtfully remem- bered, — plenty of dish-cloths, and a good hatchet. A good blanket, rough clothes, strong shoes, and a convenient knapsack, are absolute es- entials ; but don't burden yourself with needless things. In fact, while nothing is needed in the way of choice cravats and white kids, there should be careful regard to the little things you will need but cannot buy in the woods, even to a stout-bladed jack-knife. It is impossible, and useless to attempt, to describe particular spots, which would tempt a '• camping-out " party to prefer. They are num- bered by thousands. If you would have large game on land, and salmon in the waters, a location must be chosen in the more wild and rugged re- gions of our remote borders ; and in the right season, — say, in early May. Should a more quiet and subdued locality be preferred, you may push for the mountain sides and slopes of Pennsylvania or of Virginia. No more attractive beauties of nature invite the tourists of our land, than await those who may seek the elevated portions of " Old Vu-ginny." Prince Edward's Island is also unsurpassed in natural charms, in healthfulness, in its sources for campiug-out pleasm-es, and the broad hospitality of its rural population. In due time, a great summer pil- grimage will set towards that garden of the sea. Nova Scotia abounds in novelties to our own people, and in its fine lakes, filled with the most eager and gamey of trout. The solitudes of New Brunswick, so strangely overlooked by travellers and writers, possess some of the loveliest as well as the grandest and most romantic attractions to be found on any portion of our continent. This picturesque region also will soon, no doubt, be opened by pleasure hunters and the writers of many books. POPULAR JIESOIJTS, AXI) IIOW TO KEACII TIIKAl. 21 Northern Maine about i\Ioosehead and tlie Rangeley Lakes, the hills and streams of Vermont, a great and grand region lying between the White Mountains and Canada, a lovely land around the head waters of the Connecticut River, not forgetting Mount Desert nor the Adiron- dacks, — these are some of the leading areas of our Northern climate, where camping out maybe enjoyed, in all its delicious and inspiring fulness. This is all that space will permit in this work, for remarks upon "camp- ing out." As yet it is only here and there that the camping-out party is to be found, in the warm months. The attention of vacation takers lias not been turned to this best of all modes of seeking one's comfort and ease, to the degree required to make it popular and general. But it cannot be commended too earnestly, nor pressed too persistently upon public notice. It is not absolutely required that the party camping out shall locate in a place remote from all civilization. On the contrary, a vast number of our more popular summer resorts and towns offer most inviting spots for a camp (see cut) to which the belles would delight to ramble, and where primitive hospitality can be liberally dispensed, even when young bucks of fashion may be compelled to act the parts of Bridget the cook, and Mary the maid of all work. It is a matter of surprise that this charming way to diversify the individual and family trip is not more generally remembered and prac- tised. Let the reader, as he decides whither his summer flight shall be, ponder well this idea of " Camping Out." Harbor and Coastwise Excursions. — One of the most delight- ful yet economical sources of sumnaer enjoyment is the harbor excursion. From each of our great maritime cities, boats conveniently arranged leave daily for some of the most popular resorts. From Washington they sail down the Potomac to jNIount Vernon ; from Baltimore to the beautiful water retreats in the vicinity ; from New York up the North and East Rivers, to Stalen Island, and Harlem ; from Boston to Nan- tasket Beach, Long Island, Gloucester, and Nahant. Indeed, every large town with a harbor front has its pleasant resorts ; and the stranger has only to look in the daily papers for particidars. Again : if the tourist would consult comfort and economy, if he would take sleep and rest while passing familiar or uninteresting sections of the country, he can frequently give diversity to his travels by an occa- sional trip on a coastwise steamer. In going east from Boston, the daily steamboat line to Portland, the " Star of the East " up the Kennebeck, " Sanford's Independent Line " up the Penobscot, the " Inside Line " from Portland to Momit Desert and Bangor, and the Halifax boats, are all first-class, and deserving the notice of tourists. The New York boats are described elsewhere. POFULAIi KKSOHTS, AND HOW TO KKACH THK.M. 23 HINTS TO TOURISTS. It is a mattei- of no little anxiety to the devotee of summer pleasures, or the seeker after new wonders, tf> choose the field for his examination wliich shall yield the richast harvest of pleasure. In days gone by, it was largely the custom, as a matter of course, to visit those popular localities of most convenient access; and so it happened that each suc- ceeding year found the same familiar faces returned to the haunts of past enjoyments. But, with the remarkable improvement in railroad and steamboat travel, new resorts have been opened, and fresh wonders pre- sent their claims for examination. This has induced a new feature in summer travel. Experienced tourists no longer choose the shortest line to an objective point, regardless of the, scenery through which it lies; but, by judicious selection, with slight detour, they can embody such routes as lie through new or pleasant places, which can generally be done with ti-ifling addition to the expense. The stranger will find much assistance in the selection of desirable routes and localities, by an examination of these pages, which, in the present instance, have covered largely the older and better-known routes of travel; but much remains to be done. The task set for this w^ork is not completed by dwelling only upon the well-known and much-visited " re.sorts " which have secured popular favor, and are of ready and easy access. The perspective of other and less-regarded charms of Nature comes into our future picture. As popu- lation advances to its hundred millions, pushing the wave of frontier invasion on, and still on, until it shall break at last upon shores of the remotest sea, new objects of delight, new charms and beauties and wonders of creation, will be embraced in the "popular resorts" of this vast empire. It is not oidy the places of gayety and fashion and luxury, which appeal to summer migration. There are the zones of soft and bland climates, equable in temperature, and pure of air and water. There are the phannacopoeias of Nature's healing springs, foi-med from her own great i^ecipes. And there are other regions, on mountains or in valleys, to all of which the sufferers from bodily ills will finally resort in gi-eat multitudes in the years now coming. As yet, the stream of travel during the heated term may be said to move slowly toward the States lying upon, or contiguous to, the great lakes and rivers of our Nortll-'west. And yet Michigan, Wisconsin, IMinnesota, Indiana, Iowa, and Illinois constitute a region replete with every degi-ee of picturesque variety, excepting the wild grandeur of lofty mountain ranges. For invalids with debilitated systems and low vitahty, especially consumptives, ^lichigan, Wisconsin, Minnesota, and Iowa are now esteemed by many as decidedly preferable, and more promising of cure than the soft and palliating atmosphere of Florida. In Michigan, 24 POPULAK RBSOBTS, ANB HOW TO KEACH THEM. the island of Mackinaw, in the straits of that name, I'ising iu a line two hundred feet above the water; and the wonderful "Pictured Rocks," extending twelve miles, and having an elevation of three hundred feet from the water's edge, — are famous already. Wisconsin abounds in remarkable evidences of having been once inhabited by a now extinct race. One of these is said to be in the form of a recumbent man, a hundred and twenty feet long, and thirty feet across the body. (?) Another is in the shape of a huge turtle. There are falls, gorges, and wildly torn rocks and hills, the rivals of the most famous in our land. Minnesota even surpasses some of our most favorite regions of charming scenery. Save great cataracts and lofty moimtains, the State is of rarest wealth in natural glories; and no less in stupendous and yet not fully explored caves. The widely famed St. Anthony's Falls are in Wisconsin. And what is generally said just here of these three States applies no less to the sister States of that region. The traveller who would seek some new region for recreation, adventure, or health, may well make his summer campaign in the pleasant lands of the North-west. Colorado is rapidly coming into popular consideration. Twenty years ago it was scarcely mentioned in gazetteers. Now it is a State of this Union. The advance of Colorado into public notice, as a place for emigrants to seek, had its origin in the California fever, and greed for gold. But the rapid and magical changes of a few years have revealed to our people a region of indescribable grandeur. Here every thing is laid out upon Nature's most gigantic scale. Rocks, piercing the clouds, rear their summits from canons and vast gulfs and gashes that fill the soul with speechless awe and delight. All that imagination could con- ceive, of the stupendous, awful, and sublime, can be profusely studied in our new sister State of Colorado. Such a glorious panorama cannot re- main unappreciated among such a travelling and voyaging people as ours. The Territoiy of Montana is another field of Nature's wonders, though hardly opened to the tourist. But California is a world by itself, ricli in every variety of scene. Here Nature displays her grandest moods. To speak of Florida is to re-state what is now well known among all classes. The remarkably equable climate, at all seasons of the year to be found in certain portions of Florida, so novel and delightful to strangers, has invited a constantly increasing tide of visitors to that State, especially since the war. It is pronounced the most healthful section of our Continent. The modes of living, the hospitality of its citizens, its flowers, birds, and varied fruits, — but not its alligators, — are sources of sweet and placid enjoyment, sui generis in Florida. Other wonders are constantly presenting themselves, and claim our attention as " Popular Resorts." We now turn to New England. I'OrULAU JtESOIJTS, AXO HOW TO KKACII TIIKAI. 25 The City of Boston. — If we, depart irom the general i)lan of this work, to take special note of a great city, it is because lioston stands out in marked distinctiveness from every other city on the continent, — per- haps it should be said, from all others of the whole world. For a certain class of vacation tourists, Boston contains as much to study and enjoy as IS found by other classes in the peaceful woods, the mountain sub- limities, or the ocean's grand moods. The claim to pre-eminence among all our cities, for lavish profusion and unstinted generosity in all mat- ters pertaining to moral, intellectual, and philanthro[)ic progress, is conceded to Boston, without dispute. Nor are these characteristics spas- modic or ephemeral. From the earliest history of the Puritanical settlements, this distinction has marked the history of Massachusetts, with Boston as the chief and centre of its manifestations. Institutions of learning; of moral and Christian teaching; of broad and compre- hensive philanthropy ; of art ; of sesthetic culture ; of hygiene ; of all which tends to refine, purify, and elevate the race, — are not merely found here, but are full of progressive vigor. It is the innumerable systems of these classes, which induce many summer tourists to dwell for a sea- son in Boston. We shall not delay to particularize these ; for they would require a book to detail them. For tortuous and narrow streets, lanes, courts, and alleys, no city of equal size can or would compete with Boston. Its plan, if it can be called such, may have been oi-iginal with wandering cows and sheep; but no other design could ever have devised it as originally built since the late fire, however, many of tlie streets have been widened and extended, thus bringing some regularity oiit of seeming chaos ; and the general architecture has been greatly impi'oved, and in many cases is rich and elegant. The contrast of costly edifices, side by side with tumble-down ricketiness, is not to be found. What remain, even, of the older buildings are rapidly giving way to new. AVidening of streets is progressing at enormous cost ; and the demand for business facilities finds ample wealth to meet it. The city proper may be pleas- antly studied. Rare, beautiful, and refreshing to the eye as is Boston Common, the pride of Bostouians, the suburbs are even more attractive and grateful. We doubt if thei-e is a city in the world with such a clustering zone of half city, half-countrj^ — half nature, half art, — as adorns the environs of Boston. The peninsula being so much absorbed by trade, the popula- tion is forced to " roost " outside. Here, then, wealth and refined taste are free to combine and adorn. The stranger needs no special direc- tions. Any course will sufiice for the start; and the net-work of inter- laced steam, horse-car. and carriage roads will jiermit one to study the whole of the delicious panorama, before finishing the day. Or, taking one 26 POPUL,AK KESOBTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. MOUNTAINS. Mountains, lakes, rivers, and sea-shore form the principal resorts of New England. The three former are so interspersed and connected, that descriptions of them naturally blend one into the other. The sea- coast, fi-inged with some of the best beaches in the country, is thickly dotted with summer watering-places, High up in the unseen glens of the mountains the principal rivers take their rise, sometimes gliding a thread of silver to the valleys below; again leaping boldly from crag to crag, in a series of foaming cascades and waterfalls. The mountains of ' New England form a marked characteristic of the scenery of that picturesque region. Bold and rugged in outline, grand in effect, clothed in the blue mystery of distance, and swept by an invig- orating atmosphere, they embody the char- acteristics of popularity, and form a highly attractive point of interest for tourists. While New England is proud of the fame of her mountains, she is equally pleased with her hundreds of beautiful lakes, sparkling in the POPUI-AK RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACJI THEM. 27 sunlight of nature; but in the boldness of her mountains, and the beauty of her lakes, lier waterfalls are eclipsed. In magnitude they would be buried in the spray of the Yellowstone, or lost in the grandeur of Niagara; yet they give life and interest to her scenery, and add variety to the pleasures of guests. They are subject to little change. The constant roll of waters through countless ages has, with few ex- ceptions, produced little effect upon the texture of the primitive rock u\Km which they fall. The same jagged angles which broke their waters centuries ago, meet them now, and dash them into fragments of spray. It is far better as it is. The pleasure of travel would lose half its interest if one locality combined the- excellencies of Nature. Florida without her lun-ivalled climate, Colorado shorn of her sublime canons, or New Jersey bereft of her magnificent sea-shores, would fail to attract that tide of travel which now invades their borders. There are really no waterfalls in New England of sufficient magnitude to draw visitors by their own attractions; but, as auxiliaries, they add to the variety of scenic characteristics otherwise interesting. NEW HAMPSHIRE MOUNTAINS. The early histories of nations show that mountains have always been objects of awe and veneration. Of this we have abundant proof in writing, both sacred and profane. Piv-emiuent among the mountains of New England stand the White Hills of New Hampshire. Indeed, save in altitude, the remark might hold good for the country. It is well known that the natives held tlie White Mountains in religious rev- erence. They called them " Agiochook " (Mountains of the Snowy Forehead, and House of the Great Spirit), always approaching them with the greatest deference; seldom venturing far up their sides. From the settlement of the country, they were a source of great interest. They were visited by Derby Field only twenty-two years after the landing of the Pilgrims, notwithstanding an unbroken forest intervened; and it is even claimed that a party of Englishmen visited them ten years previous to that date. The " Notch " by which travellei's can pass through to the country beyond, and through which the route of the Portland and Og- densburg Railroad lies, was discovered in 1772;* since which, improve- ments have been pushed to meet the wants of visitors, until now the hotels of this region are held among the best in the country. Unless mountains are of great repute, like the "White Mountains, they are sel- dom visited as a specialty; but their attractions more frequently form an auxiliary to some neighboring resort, whose enterprising proprietor improves the paths of approach, and furnishes conveyance. Hence it is safe to infer, that good hotel and transportation accommodations may 28 POPULAR KESOKTS, AND HOW TO KEACH THEM. be had in the vicinity of most of our prominent mountains whose at- tractions are advertised to the public. Hilly and mountainous regions, like New England, New York, and the North-west, are generally interpersed with x^onds and lakes, which give a pleasing variety to the landscape. Should the mountains take the form of ranges, however, as in Pennsylvania, the surface is drained through the valleys; and lakes, which are so common in some sections of the country, are in such regions almost entirely unknown. New Hamp- shire has been aptly termed the ' ' Switzerland of America. ' ' Her gran- ite hills of rough primeval rock rear their bald and stately peaks high above the surrounding plains. The scanty though productive soil at their base, formed by washings from the disintegration of ages, supports dense forests of hardy trees, which, as you ascend, become dwarfed and twisted by the winds; yet, when mere Liliputian in size, their pi-oportions remain. When the line of vegetation is passed, mosses and lichens alone clothe the nakedness of the rocks. The Black Mountain of North Carolina is higher than the A^^lite Mountains, but it is difficult of access, and its surroundings lack the grand scenic effects with which the former are clothed. The Sierra Nevadas, though loftier in altitude and grander in effect, are as yet com- paratively unknown , while the ease with which the Highlands of New Hampshire are reached will always assure their popularity in the esti- mation of the travelling public. THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. The White Mountains, geographically known, comprise a large portion of that part of New Hampsliire lying north of Lake Winnepesaukee, embracing an area of more than five hundred square miles. Through this region are located many of the summer houses for which New Hampshire is famed. These are frequently a long distance apart: five, ten, fifteen, twenty, or even thirty miles may intervene, — which results in frequent annoyance to the stranger, who, having been preceded by friends, expects to meet them at their hotel as readily as he would at Newport, Long Branch, or Saratoga; whereas they may have ap- proached from an opposite direction, and then- hotel may be twenty miles away. At a distance, all of this section of the State is termed the AVhite Mountains: with the inhabitants, different localities have local names by which they are known. If, for instance, a citizen of Concord, the capital of New Hampshire, should announce his intention to visit ]Mount Belknap, it would be understood that he would go to Guil- ford. If he would visit Ked Hill, he would go to Centre Harbor; if 30 POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. Mount Kearsarge, he would stop at Potter's Station, on the Northern Raih'oad. If Mount Kiarsarge were to be visited, he would go to Xorth Conway; if Mount Chocorua, or Ossipee Moimtains, he would stop at West Ossipee; if Moosilauke, he would go to Warren,- if ihe Franconia Range, he would continue to Littleton, and thence by stage. And to many other mountains popular as resorts, known at a distance as a part of the White Mountains, his routes would be equally divergent: yet a visit to neither of these would take him to the White Mountains as understood by the citizens of the State. It is therefore advised, that the visitor to that region procure a good map, or, better yet, a cojiy of " Eastman's White-Mountain Guide," a most complete and reliable book. The White Mountains proper, of which Mount Washington forms the crowning centre, are approached by four great natural thoroughfares, or valleys, up which run superior carriage or rail ways, traversed by excel- lent coaches or elegant cars. To these valleys, from every direction converge the various lines of New England. By either road the tourist will be taken to some portion of the White jNIountain region along a route replete with interest. No two are alike; the scenery differs de- cidedly on each; and, as much of the enjoyment of a tour depends upon the pleasure en route, it behooves the traveller to use care in his selection. By going one road, and returning on another, the pleasm'e may be increased. If the design of the tourist were an objective point, like Niagara Falls, the Mammoth Cave, Watkins Glen, Cape May, or Mauch Chunk, he might well select the most direct route, and save himself for the anticipated pleasures in store; but the White Mountain trip ivill pay from the start. The scene changes incessantly, and the whole excur- sion is a panorama of interesting views. The person who has no love for the beautiful in nature, or who fails to appreciate its charms, and expects to find the great source of pleasure in store at the end of his journey, will be quite likely to return disappointed. The eleven great peaks which form the White Mountain group proper are, Moinit Washington, with an altitude of six thousand two hundred and eighty-five feet; Adams, fifty-eight hundred; Jefferson, fifty-seven hundred; Madison, fifty-four hundred; Clay, fifty-four hundred; Monroe, fifty-four hundred; Franklin, forty-nine hundred; Pleasant, forty-eight hundred; Clinton, forty-two hundred; Jackson, forty-one hundred, and Webster, four thousand. Connecting and adjoining these are many others of neaiiy equal altitudes. These mountains are generally accessi- ble. A bridle-path from the south-west extends from the Crawford House, near the WTiite Mountain Notch, over Mounts Clinton, Pleasant, Franklin, and Monroe, to the summit of Mount Washington ; and, fol- lowing as it does the crest of the mountain range, it unfolds a panorama of the grandest views east of the Rocky Mountains. A carriage-way, POPULAR KESOKTS, AND HOW TO KEACII THPIM. 31 commencing at the Glen House, has been constructed up the north- eastern slope of Mount Washington ; and on its western face a railroad connecting by a short turnpike with the Boston, Concord, and Montreal Railroad, has been built to the top, by which the fatigues of the ascent have been overcome. Ample hotel accommodations will be found, of a superior character, on the simimit. ROUTES OF APPROACH. The main routes of apjjroach to the AVhite Mountains are up the four great valleys, through which flow the waters from this region, — the Merrimac and Pemigewasset, the Saco, Androscoggin, and Ammonoosuc, a tributary of the Connecticut. Through each of these valleys railroads have been constructed; some extending to the mountains, othei's con- tinued by stages, while each connects with tributary roads leadhig fi-om distant parts of the country. Visitors from Boston and vicinity have the choice of four routes. The Boston, Concord, and Montreal Rail- road extends up the Merrimac, Pemigewasset, and Ammonoosuc Rivers to the base of Mount "Washington. This is also the dii'ect line to Beth- lehem, Franconia Mountains, Plymouth, and Lake Winnepesaukee via. Weir's. The Conway Branch of the Eastern Railroad conveys pas- sengers to North Conway, where intersection is made with the " Portland and Ogdeiisburg, " by which they continue to the mountains. Tourists can also visit Lake Wiimepesaukee by the Wolfboro' Branch of this road. Passengers from Boston and Portland, by the Boston and j\Iaine Rail- road, reach the White Mountains via the valley of the Cocheco to Lake Winnepesaukee; thence by a delightful steamboat sail to Wolfboro' and Centre Harbor, continuing by stage and rail through the valley of the Saco, as above. Another route is to continue to Portland by the " Eastern," " Boston and Maine," or by steamer, and thence by the Portland and Ogdensbiu'g Railroad, up the Presumpseot and Saco valleys to North Conway, where the train receives tourists by the Eastern and Boston and Maine Rail- roads, and continues up the valley of the Saco, through the " Notch " to the Crawford and Fabyan Houses,* where connection is made with the Boston, Concord, and Montreal Railroad. The approach through the Androscoggin valley, from Portland and the East, is by the Grand Trunk Railway to Gorham, and thence eight miles by stage to the Glen 'House. Travellers from New York to the moun- tains via Boston will take one of these routes. There are, however, inside lines connecting with the several Sound boats, which intersect the * At the date of writing, tlie road is completed to Bemis Station, within eight miles of the "Notch," with flattering prospects of being finished before this meets the eye of the reader. 32 POPULAR KESORTS, AND IIOAV TO REACH TIIEM. "Boston, Concord, and Montreal," without passing through Boston. Tourists by the Norwich or Stonington Lines, or by all rail from New York, can also go by the Worcester, Nashua, and Nashua and Rochester Railroads, intersecting the Boston, Concord, and Montreal, Boston and Maine, or Eastern Railroad routes to the mountains. If the trip be made by all rail from New York, travellers can take the Connecticut ^"alley Rail- road at Springfield, continuing to AVells River, where intersection is made with the Boston, Concord, and Montreal Railroad, and passengers will reach the mountains by that line. In approaching from Montreal or Quebec via Grand Trunk Railroad, tourists can also strike the mountains on either the east or west side. If the former is desirable, continue on the Grand Trunk to Gorham, and thence by stage eight miles to the Glen House. If the west side is preferred, change from the Grand Trunk to the " Boston, Concord, and Montreal," at Northumberland, by which you are taken direct to the Twin Mountain or Fabyan Houses. Visitors to Bethlehem or the Franconia Range must make this change. Montreal and Quebec passengers may also go to the White INIountains via St. Johns, Canada, and continue thence by the Soutli-eastern Rail- road to Newport and AVells River. Those from Lake George go by Burlington and Montpelier to WeJls River. From Saratoga, they can cross the lake to Burlington, or go by Rutland to Bellows Falls; and in either case intersect the Boston, Concord, and Montreal Road at Wells River, and reach the mountains by that line. Each of the above routes has its individual attractions. The termini of the several railroads are connected with each other, and with the Summer Houses, by lines of coaches. Parties can also secure private carriages for transportation throu;ghout the mountains, which will be found one of the most enjoyable features of the excursion. FRANCONIA MOUNTAINS. The group of which Mount Lafayette, having an altitude of fifty- two hundred feet, is the central figure, is locally known as the Franconia Range. These mountains are situated about thirty miles south-west from the White Mountains proper, and, by their many points of scenic interest, successfully rival their more pretentious neighbors. Mount Lafayette commands a magnificent prospect. It is reached by a bridle- path, but the ascent is arduous. Here, also, is located that remarkable phenomenon. Profile Mountain (elsewhere alluded to), which is im- questionably the most wonderful natural curiosity in the country; while many other attractive features combine to render this a resort of great popularity. As before observed, the scenery on each of the above rail- way lines is entirely different, as shown by the accompanying illustrated pleasure routes. POPULAR RESOKTS, AXI) HOW TO BEACH THEM. S'i ILLUSTRATED PLEASURE ROUTE No. 1. Boston, Lowell, Worcester, Nashua, Salem, Lawrence, Manchester, and Concord to Lake Winnepesaukee, Fran- conia and White Mountains, Bethlehem, Lake Mem- phremagog, Montreal, and Quebec. BOSTON, CONCORD, AND MONTREAL RAILROAD. The increase of travel to the White Mountains during the past few years has been something remarkable. The ease with which the trip can now be made, even by the aged or by invalids, has wrought this change. Cars of the most approved styles, ecpiipped with all modern improvements, ai-e run through without change from Boston and from the New- York boats. Hotels furnished with the comforts and luxuries of home spring vip from the depths of the forest, and even crown the rocky summit of Mount Washington. A commendable emulation has actuated the several railroad companies, each striving to excel the other by add- ing- to the comforts and conveniences of tourists. To-day the Boston, Concord, and Montreal Railroad leads the van by placing its patrons at the end of their journey with the least effort to themselves. Its rails stretch to the base of Mount Washington ; nay, by the patronage of this road, the cars now climb to the crest of that grand old peak, where they deposit travellers on the platform of an excel- lent hotel which has been built to shelter them. With the exception of a short ride from the Fabyan House to the Mount Washington R.R. Dejiot (six miles), there is a continuous line from Boston to the top of Mount Washington. This route receives more patronage, and distributes its patrons through more connecting lines, than any other. Among the most prominent roads which contribute to swell the travel on the Boston, Concord, and Montreal, are the Portsmouth and Concord Railroad, Boston and Maine, Manchester and Lawrence, and Concord, with passengers from Bus/on, Li/nn, Salem, Lawrence, Manchester, and the East ; the Boston, Lowell, and Nashua, with guests from those cities ; Framingham and Lowell, and its connections, with passengers from Nem Bedford, Newport, Taunton, Fall River, and Providence, and the New-York and Stoninf/ton lines of steamers; the Worcester and Nashua, with its local and New-York travel; and the Connecticut-River and Passumpsic Railways, with their numerous branches and connecting, lines. Each of these roads must send its White-Mountain travel over the rails of the Boston, Concord, and Montreal. 34 POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. Passengers from Boston take the cars at the Boston, Lov/ell, and Nashua Depot, or go by the ' ' Boston and Maine ' ' from Ilaymarket Square to Lawrence, and thence via the Concord Raih'oad to Manchester, where the train connects with that from Boston by the Boston, Lowell, and Nashua Railroad, and the two united continue to the mountains. The Boston, Lowell, and Nashua Road is, perhaps, the legitimate route. This is made popular by the excellence of its equipments and running stock, and the promptness and regularity of its express trains, ar- ranged at hours calculated to meet the wants of pleas- ure travel. Its de- pot, on Causeway Street, being one of the finest struc- tures of the kind in the United States, is not only very popular with the travelling public, but it has come to be an ob- ject of interest to strangers. A large share of summer patronage is that in transit from New York and the South, through Roston, to the interior resorts of New Hampshire. The New York trains reach Boston early in the morning, at six or half past. The express train for the mountains leaves, by this road, at eight, a.m.; and the object was to construct a depot so ample in its appointments, so thorough in its equipments and conveniences, as to preclude the necessity of going to a hotel ; and travellers will find, at the Lowell Depot, draw- ing rooms as elaborately furnished and conducted, and restaurants where meals are as well served, as at first-class hotels generally; thus affording to the wearied, travel-worn tourist, abundant facilities for toilet and rest before the resumption of his journey. The ease with which the Lowell Depot is reached by public conveyance is also a feature of interest to the traveller. It is within fifty feet of the Eastern Railroad Depot, and within two minutes walk of the "Fitch- burg" or " Boston and Maine;" while the depots in the southern por- tion of the city are connected with this by horse-cars, which pass the door every few minutes. LOWELL AND NASHUA DEPOT, Causeway Street, Boston. POPULAK KESOKTS, AND HOW TO KEACII THEM. 85 In the construction of this building, the architect has not only sought to combine all the advantages possible for the accommodations of the railroad, and the convenience of its patrons ; but in its design and execu- tion the city has secured an ornament in architecture of which its citi- zens may well be proud. The accompanying cut entirely fails to convoy an idea of either its magnitude or finish. The " train-house,"' 565 feet in length, has been entirely ignored by the artist; but its ample propor- tions, completely covering the trains upon the several tracks, will, in the protection it gives, be aj^preciated by the public. The principal tower is 148 feet high, the central dome 113 feet, and the east tower 104 feet. The central front of the building is occupied by the ladies' grand reception-room, 54 by 25 feet, which is elabor- ately finished and richly furnished. Upon its right and left resj^ectively are also waiting-rooms for gentlemen and ladies. At the left of the main tower is the dining-room; and upon the same floor are baggage- rooms, barber-shop, toilet rooms, drinking fountains, and every conve- nience required by travellers. The entrance is through archways at either end, of sufficient capacity for foot-passengers and carriages, a great convenience in stormy weather. From these the entrance is to the main court, where the first impres- sion of the magnitude of this building is felt. This court is 92 feet long by 52 feet wide, and extends from floor to ceiling, past three stories, a distance of 76 feet. The floor is covered with marble tiles in unique design. Ten pilasters at the sides, and six at the ends, continue to the I'oof, and, standing oue above the other, support the balconies on the sides which lead to the various offices of the company. Between each pilaster is an arched-top doorway or window, opening to rooms beyond, an arrangement which gives great richness to the finish. The doors on the side open from the main entrance, and to the dining and baggage rooms; those at the south enter the reception-rooms, and those at the north lead to the trains; and between these is the ticket- office. The entire finish is in ash, elaborately carved. The ceiling is glass and stucco. From this depot the trains are made up for Lake Winnepesaukee, the Franconia Mountains, Northern New Hampshire and Vermont, Northern New York, Canada, and the West. Passengers from Boston can also take the cars at the Boston and Maine Depot. These trains unite at Mancliesler, New Hainpshire, and continue through Concord to the Pabyan House, at the base of Mount AVashing- ton. This route is made pleasant and interesting by the many streams and bodies of water along which itjiasses, among which maybe mentioned the Charlea and Mystic Rivers ; the Merrimac, along whose banks it follows for many miles; the Suncook ?^\\di Winnepesaukee Rivers ; Lake Winnesquam, Lit- tle Bay, Lake Winnepesaukee, Waukaxoan Lake, Long Pond, Pemigewasset, and a, '„ O V O •S X ropiLAK lacsDiiis, and now to iikai a tiikm. 37 Bakers Rivers; the Connecticut, Welb, Aminnnoosuc, awA /sniel's Rivers; and many other smaller streams and ponds. We strike the Merrimac at Luwrence or Lowell, following it past Man- chester and Concord, crossing and re-crossing it at times. The beauty of its course is frequently varied by picturesque falls, affording more im- proved water-power than any river in the country. The falls at Law- rence, Lowell, Aiiipsteaf/, and Hooksett are particularly noticeable. The accompanying cut, representing Hooksett Falls, also shows the Suncook Valley Railroad, which leads to Pittsjiehl, N.H., a thrivino- and l>eautiful village nestled among high hills, which are dotted with farm- houses, that are fast becoming popular with boarders from cities. This route also leads- through the heart of the cotton-manufacturing interest of New England ; passing Lawrence, Lowell, and Manchester, be- sides many smaller manufacturing-towns. Concord, the beautiful capital city of New Hampshire, possesses many features which make it a favorite resort during the summer and autumn months. It contains nbout 12,500 inhabitants; yet all are so comfortably domiciled, that it is frequently remarked by strangers " 'Where do 3'our poor live? " The shaded concrete walks of the city add much to the comfort of visitors. The State Capitol stands in the centre of a small but beautiful square, handsomely laid out, and ornamented with broad-sjireading trees. The structure is of pleasing architecture, built of native granite, for which the vicinity is noted, the whole surmounted by a lofty dome. Imme- diately fronting the State House, on the main street, is the Eagle Hotel, a fine brick structure, which is widely known as a first-class house. The "Eagle " x'eceives much of its foreign patronage from parties, who. after starting for the mountains, prefer to spend a few days at Concord before leaving for the season; and particularly from those returning in the autumn, driven in by the early frosts, who always find here and in the vicinity a few weeks of charming weather. Among the other public buildings may be named the Court House, Churches, Schools, City Hall, State Prison, and State Asylum for Insane. The two latter institutions are in fine condition. The Prison, unlike those of many States, is made a paying institution. The Asylum has been built 32 years, and is very successfully conducted. Concord is somewhat celebrated for its manufactures, particularly of carriages and coaches, which ai"e shipped extensively to all parts of the world. As a railroad centre, Concord presents admirable facilities for intercourse with various sections of the country. The line proper of the Boston, Concord, and Montreal Railroad starts from Concord, though its cars and those of the Boston, Lowell and Nashua, the Framingham and Lowell, and the Worcester and Nashua Roads, run through from those cities, and continue to the mountains. 1- c C D O O "^ O ." 1- w -J sS =6S- o c I'OJ'LLAli KESOHTS, AND JlOW TO KEACII THEM. 39 A few miles above Concord, the road again crosses tlie Merrimac, and leads away towards Lake Wiiuiepexaukee. Tillon is the first town of interest. This was formerly known as San- bornton Bridge. It is a' thriving manufacturing village, and forms the centre of a large agricultural region. The Methodist Seminary located here, a good view of which appears in the engraving, has been long and favorably known. TUlon possesses an' unusually fine water-power, not computed by its volume alone, but by its great regularity. The river which runs through the place is the outlet of Lake WIniicpesaukee, in which large reservoir the water is held in reserve by the water-power company which owns it, to supjily the cotton-manufactories at Lowell and Lawrence during the droughts of summer. There is a charm in this whole region for summer life. JSTot only the town of Sanbornton, from which Tilton is an offshoot, but Canterbury and Meredith, Belmont and (iilmanton, all furnish desirable summer homes. The topography is particularly adapted to promote the health of its inhabitants. The land is generally high and rolling, and has been so long cleared that the climate is fully established. A stage leaves Tilton, on the arrival of the morning train, for Gilman- ton Academy, passing through Belmont, formerly know n as Upper Gil- manton. Gilmanton is becoming popular as a summer residence for persons from Boston and New York, who build here houses for the warm season. It possesses the advantage of good and long-established institu- tions of learning, and is sought by persons having a family. Al- though supplied with daily mail and stage connections, there is no railroad within its border's ; and, w-ith a society cultivated by its fine schools, it possesses much of that pristine character which characterized New Eng- land towns of earlier days. Loiver Gihnantnn is reached by the '• Con- cord " and " Suncook Valley Railroad " to Pittsfield, and Gilmanton Iron Works by the " Boston and Maine " to Alton, and thence by stages. From Tilton the road follows the Win)iepe.taukee River, and the shores of Little Bdji and Winnesquam T^ake, past Union Brifh/e. to Laconia. Although undeveloped at present, this region possesses many features calculated to make it pojnilar with the seeker after health and pleasure. Winnesquam Lake is some twelve or fifteen miles in length, is beautiful in form and suiToundings, and, but for its more pretentious rival Win- nepesaukee, would have, ere this, received the attention which its merits deserve. It has long been known as the home for the lake trout, and somewhat famed for its piscatorial advantages. Two small summer houses furnish accommodation for visitors, — the Winnesquam at the lower end of the lake, and the Ba// View, which is admirably located in the suburbs of Laconia. The cars pass between it and the lake, and leave passengers when requested. POPULAR RKSOIM'S, AND HOW TO UKACII THEM. 41 The route, which from Concord lies tliroiigli an lUKutPiVHtins;' country, now fairly enters tlie lake and mountain regit)n. 1'lie scenery does not possess the yi-andeur of the Wliite-lNIountain section ; yet it is marked by many elements of pictures(ine beauty. Its water-views are fiuf ; a distant line of mountain-peaks cuts the horizon. It is only five miles, over a ji^ood country road, to Mount Belknap, which is easily accessible, and from whose barren summit may be had one of the finest landscape- views on the Atlantic slope. It vai-ies from the Bed-Hill prospect by havins: Lake Winnepesaukee and the entire i>roup of the Wliite and Fninconia Moun- tdhis in the same A'iew. The steamer " Mount Wasliington " can be dis- tinctly seen soon after it leaves Allo)t. Ba>/, and traced on its way for more than twenty-five miles to Wolfboro'' and Centre Harbor. The steamer '• Lady of the Lake " can also be followed in it.-^; tortuous course from \Veir\H to Centre Harbor and Wolfboro'. From this elevated position a mvich better idea of the g'l-eat number of islands is olitained than while sailing on the lake. Beyond its placid waters the mountain ranges rise in successive peaks ; and towering above all is the well-known "Presi- dential Group," of which Mount Washington is the commanding centre. Mount Belknap is at present but little known to the travelling public ; but its pleasant a[)i>roach, easy access, and magnificent " View " must eventually bring it into great popularity. Visitors to Laconia will find the Bay View House (seen on the riglit of the engraving) delightfully located, and surrounded by beautiful scenery. It is noted alike for its good table, home-like atmosphere, and reasonable terms. Lake Village is but a mile and a half from Laconia : their suburbs meet ; and the towns are seemingly one. The views in the vicinity are very like those near La- conia. Indeed, the same moun- tain ranges may be seen in the distance, though tlie water foreground is different. There is nothing grand in the scenery as the train steams away towards the lake, but it is very picturesque. At Weir'a Station passengers change for Wolfboro', Cen- tre Harbor, and Conwnt/. Within the past year a Methodist camp-meet- LAKE VILLAGE, N.H. Boston, Concord, and Montreal R.R. «§ S: I'OPULAIt KKSOUTS, AND HOW TO KEACH THEM. 43 iii.t? ground has been dedicated in a (lelii;httul grove adjoining the station, which bids fair to increase tlie popuhirity of this charming spot. Several commodious buildings have already been erected : lots for cottages have been secured on a site commanding a magnificent view of the lake, with fine boat and railroad accommodations. Those who desire to visit Wolf- horo\ Centre Harbor, or Coined// will find the commodious little steamer Lady of the Lake awaiting them at the landing. Arrangements have been made to run the boat from \Volfboro' to ^Veir"s, and rice rerm, to ac- commodate tourists to and from tlie Franconia Mountains. The dis- tance to Wolfboro' is twenty miles, and to Centre Harbor but half that, although the latter route seems to combine all the beauties of the lake. When the steamer leaves the wharf, the jutting points of the adjacent islands would seem to bar our progress ; but, as it spe(>ds its way, the vie\\- unfolds, the channel opens ; and we wind our pleasant course among the islands, at times so near that the ovei-hanging branches almost sweep the boat. The lake is from twenty-five to thirty miles long, and varies from one to eight miles wide. It contains about sixty-nine square miles, and nearly three hundred islands, on many of which are fine farms, and several are used for grazing. Its surface is 472 feet above the level of the sea. The numerous islands which dot its bosom, the beautiful hills which hem it in, and its many points and inlets, combine to make Wiiniepesaukee one of the most pleasing inland resorts in the coimtry. The sedative influence and peculiar quiet of the scene, dui-- ing the charming days of an Indian summer, with the bright tints of an autumnal foliage, graduating to the soft haze of the mountain blue, re- flected in its waters, is most wonderful. At Centre House or Wolf- boro' 'for days and weeks the tourist lingers, forgetting, among the quiet beauties of nature, the cares of a business-life. The excur- sion to Centre Harbor also forms one of the most delightful clai/-trlps from Boston. Leaving the city at S o'clock in the morning, via the Boston, Concord, and Montreal R.R. and steamer " Lady of the Lake," the visitor will have an hour for dinner at Centre Harbor, returning by the steamer "Mount Washington," and Boston and Maine Railroad, to Boston the same evening, thus passing through the cities of Lowell, Nashua, Manchester, Concord, Dover, Haverhill, and Lawrence, with the inter- vening towns, and ti*aversing the entire length and breadth of Lake Winnepesaukee, by both routes, in a single day. It would be easy to introduce pages of description from the pens of visitors ; but all are embodied in the following quotation from that eminent writer, Edward Evkuett. " I have been something of a traveller In our own country, — though far less than I could wish, — and in Europe have seen all that is most attractive. J>01'IIL.AB RESORTS, AND HOW TO RKACII TIIKM. 45 from the Highlands of Srothuid to the Golden Horn of (-'onstantinople, from the summit of Hartz Mountain.s to the Fountain of Vaucluse; but my eye has yet to rest on a lovelier scene than that which smiles around you as you sail from Weir's Landing to Centre Harbor." From Weir's LandiiK/ the train continues northward past Meredith, a pleasant villag-e located on the shores of the lake, from which steamers run to other villages during portions of the year. Above Mereditli the route leads for four miles along the south shore of Wciddirdn Luke. Long Pond ou the right is -= — ^^^-='^'^--— --i -^-^-- " tlienextbodyof water passed, _j^ ^ the train gliding safely mider ^" ' ' the shadow of Ragged ]\Ioun- luiiu whose rocky sides have been bhisted away to givepas- sage to the cars. This scenery and that around Asldand. is very line; and nuaiy a toui'ist artistically inclined will be lured from the cars to visit it. The Pemifjeir((sset aud S(iiiiiin Eivers. which unite here, furnish many landscape " bits " of artistic beauty. The course of Si/u(iiii Hirer is not along our route ; but the lover of the beautiful who would follow it three miles, to its source in Squant Lake, will be amply repaid. Squam J^ake has already been alluded to in a visit from Centre Harbor ; but no single description can ex- haust its picturesque beau- ties. Indeed, this whole „ - ^.,»-.,^-«»^^.«.c=.^^r--v.»,,«»^™^^ region possesses peculiar RAGGED MOUNTAINS LONG POND, MEREDITH, N.H. charms for the liberated Boston, Concord, and Montreal R. R. citlZeU of OUr larger tOWUS, where weeks or months may be quietly spent ; and, if he makes up his mind in advance to take the accommodations as he fin.ls them, he cannot fail to be pleased. Unfortunately, no large hotel has yet been built here ; p a a a P-, s O rr. a p o 5 o +3 01 >. E fl ^ rt 3 c3 03 +j K a: 2 03 O t4 POl'ULAK HESOUTS, AND HOW TO llEACH THEM. 47 but it is but ii short drive from Centre Harbor, wliere all the quiet comforts of home will be fouiid. Ashland was formerly known as I/otdcnwss, ami is remembered l)y mem- bers of the Episcopal denomination as one of the first places where that society flourished in this part of the State. Above Ashland we enter the valley of the Pemu/en-assct, which we follow to Pljimouth. The stranger will be jiarticularly struck by the purity of the water in the wayside streams flowing from s])rings on the mountain sides. They furnish admirable nurseries for the speckled trout with which they gen- erally abound. The approach to Plymouth is very picturesque. The line of the road is along the banks of the river, which meanders its course through rich meadows, shaded here and there by broad-sweeping elms. On either side are high wooded hills, which, by gentle grade, sweep down to the PEMIGEWASSET HOUSE. valley below; while beyond in the blue distance are the Franconia Mountains. As you are whirled rapidly into the town, the Pemige- wasset House, which in the distance seemed a mere speck among the trees, rises invitingly before; you. On reaching town, the train stops immediately in rear of the hotel ; and, with an evident knowledge of the good things within, the passengers 48 POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. soon fill ths long dining-rooms of the house, or the restaurants attached to it. Ample time is given for dinner, full thirty minutes, before the conductor cries, " All aboard ! " But here we find that many of our com- panions have left us, though the number is made good by others, who have been spending a few days at this enjoyable place. Plymouth is deservedly one of the most popular resorts \\\ Xew Hampshire. It is a compact village, with several fine churches, schools, county buildings, railroad offices, &c. But tourists visit Plymouth for its delightful sur- roundings, pleasant drives, and magnificent scenery, and no less for the popularity of its noble hotel, the Pemigewasset House. This elegant and spacious hotel is delightfully situated on the banks, of the Pemigewasset, near its confluence with Baker's River. The halls, parlors, and dining-rooms are large, light, and handsomely furnished. The chambers are high and well-ventilated. There are bath-rooms with hot and cold water, and all the modern cojiveniences of a first-class, house. It is under the patronage of the Boston, Concord, and Montreal Railroad, and is frequented by persons of culture and taste, some having secured rooms for nine consecutive years. An air of refinement pervades its atmosphere, which is immediately ye/< by visitors. LivEHMORE Falls are on "° ~"~ " a wild turbid stream, which forces its way along a rugged bed of shattered I'ocks. The road-way cj-osses by a light, airy bridge immediately below the falls, affording an oppor- tunity to view them without leaving the carriage. Where there are so many pleasant drives as in the vicinity of Plymouth, it is difficult to particularize ; indeed, with the fine turn-outs furnished at the hotel, one can scarcely go LIVERMORE FALLS, PLYMOUTH, N.H. ^^™^«-^- '^^^ ^^^^^^ ''^^^^^^^ ^''>'/- Boston, Concord, and Montreal R.R. ?no«shire and Maine into the broad Atlantic. Dixville Notch has many objects of interest. A rugged pinnacle, five hundred and sixty-one feet above the carriage-road, approached by a rough stone stairway, is called Table Rock. Jacob's Ladder is the name which has been given to the path that reaches it. Another path near at hand leads to the Ice Cave, a protected gorge where the snows lodge in winter, and remain throughout the summer. Dixville Notch, which is a mile and a half long, like the White Mountain Notch, has' its towering rocks, grand Flume, turbulent stream, and its snowy cascades. 5(5 POPULAR KESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. The Connecticut Lake, lying to the northward, is also a feature of this unfrequented region. It may be i-eached from C'olebrook, twenty- five miles, by stage. A pleasure steamer has been placed on its waters. The principal lake is but five and a half by two and a half miles ; a sec- ond, four miles away, reached by a forest path, is but half this size; a third and fourth, both small, are beyond. These lakes are well stocked with fish, whose unfamiliarity with the sports of civilization make this a desirable locality for a " camping-out " party, though comfortable hotel accommodations can be had. This is similar to the Lake Umbagog region described elsewhere. Resximing our route on tlie Wing Road (see index), we follow up tlu- RAILROAD STATION, BETHLEHEM, N.H, Boston, Concord, and Montreal R.R. banks of the Ammonoosuc : though for several miles there is nothing in the character of the scenery to indicate to the tourist that he is rapidly approaching one of the most celebrated summer-resorts in America. BelMehem Slalion is the first stopping-place. The village of Belhlahcm, two miles from the station, is one of the favorite summer residences in the mountain-region. With the increasing popularity of AVhite Mountain travel come large numbers as sight-seers and pleasure-seekers : still, there are many who visit the highlands of New Hamiishire for the water pure from its mountain springs, and fine invigorating atmospher;- which sweeps the hills, and after a few months" sojourn feel that they have renewed their lease of life. The extent of country thus visited occupies an area of more than 500 square miles, embracing eveiy variety of surface and surroundings, from the green meadow, the rolling upland, POIHir.AU liKSOItTS, A.\I> HOW TO liKAClI TIIKM. 57 the high moiiiitiiiu-peak, to tlie dense primeval forest. Tiie villaiije of Bethlehem is built on a plateau or ridge of deep, rich soil, w hich con- nects the White and Franconia ranges of mountains, and commands striking views of both. Its altitude is greater than that of am/ other village east of the Rocky Mountains. Some years ago a Boston merchant, overtaxed by business cares, and suffering from loss of health, was recommended to try a season at Bethlehem. He returned in the autumn well, — completely invig- orated and restored ; but each season finds him with his family at their mountain home. Thankful for this marvellous and unexpected restoration, with his ample means he determined to pre]iare accommo- MAPLEWOOD HOTEL. Bethlehem, N.H dations where others could have the comforts of home without the ex- pense of fitting up an establishment of their own. A valuable farm of five hundred acres was purchased, and thoroughly stocked with improved breeds of horses, cows, and sheep, and large num- bers of poultry of the most approved kinds ; while the hoiise was enlarged and placed in perfect repair, bowling and billiard saloons erected, and other games and amusements improvised for the entertainment of guests. The farm was placed under the charge of a competent person, for whom a commodious farm-house, barns, dairies, stables, and extensive out-build- ings, were erected. From this farm guests are daily supplied, during the summer, with the venj best of every thing fresh from the fields. Green POPULAR RESORTS, AND IIOAV TO REACH TIIEM. 59 com, pease, beans, and garden-sauce, growing at one hour, are bounti- fully served upon the table the next. Fresh cream, butter, and eggs, of home i^roduction, are furnished, not at fabulous hotel-prices, but at fair and reasonable rates. The verandas at the Maple-wood are shaded ; and the grounds are ornamented by a fine growth of sugar-maple, forming delightful play-grounds for children, and a cool and cleanly out-of-doors resort for adults. One of the finest and most picturesque views of Mount Washington, and others of the White-Mountain group, is from the ve- randa of this house ; while the vicinity abounds in delightful drives. The admirable drainage, secured at great expense, renders this a health- ful and desirable summer residence. It is supjilied with never-failing spring water, and is but one and one-fourth miles from the depot. From the station at Bethlehem the train continues along the bank of the Ammonoosuc to the Twin Mountain House and to the Pabyan House, at the base of Mount Washiiu/ton. The Twin Mountain House until the present season was the terminus of the railroad. It has been extensively patronized, and will be pleasantly remembered by its patrons, as a most free and social summer home. The buildings of this extensive summer resort wei'e erected and fur- nished new in 18G9-70, on a spot long occupied as a hotel, and popular with the public. The vicinity not only commands fine and varied views- of the White and Franconia IMountains, but has better facilities for water amusements than any hotel of the mountain region. The house stands high on a connnanding bluff, which overlooks the Ammonoosuc. So near its head, this stream is not usually suitable for boating ; but here it is held by a dam, thus affording an admirable opportunity for that healthful and fascinating amusement. The water is fringed with trees of most delicate foliage, among which guests have constructed rural seats and arbors. This is a romantic spot, where lovers and those socially inclined do love to congregate. The forests about the " Twin Mountain " are very charming, and the shrubs and ferns fresh and varied. But the chief and practical excellence of this locality is in the entire absence of hay-fever, that disagreeable disease indigenous to so large a jiortion of the country. The following extract from " The New York Ledger " is from the pen of the Rev. Henry Ward Beecher, who has long been afflicted with this distressing malady, and who now spends his summer and autumn months at this health-giving place : " Mean- while another year warrants me in saying that a resort hither is almost certain relief ; not one per cent of patients failing to obtain essential if not entire relief. We can go out into the sun, stand in mud morning and evening, and in spite of dust, rain, or chill, we are well. From the Twin Mountain House, the route continues to the Fabyan House, the terminus of the Boston, Concord, and Montreal Railroad; froia POPUI.AK ItESOUTS. AND HOW Tf» liKACII THEM. 61 which point stasjes convey tourists six miles, to the Mount Washington Railway, by which they are taken to the siunniit the same evening. Carriages will also be found in waiting, to take passengers from every train to the Crawford House five miles distant, AVhite Mountain Notch, and other points of attraction in that neighborhood, described under the head of Pleasure lloute No. 5." The stage-ride from the (Crawford and Fabyan Houses to the Mount Washington Railway Station is one of the n\ost exciting features of mountain travel. The falls of the Am- inonoosuc are passed by the way side, and are well worth a visit. Here the rocks have been worn by the action of the wa- ter into a thousand fantastic forms.The road leads through a primeval forest : luxuriant viut'S laden with fruit and berries si)ring from the virgin soil, often tempting the visitor from the carriage. We occasionally catch a glimpse of the grand old mountain, as it i-aises its granite head above the clouds. The ascent of Moujit Wasliingtou was once a feat of rare occurrence, accomplished only \^y the daring hunter or adventurf)us trav- eller; but the industry and perseverance of man have smoothed the way; and the route has been made easy, safe, and ])leasant. To accompany an aeronaut, to look out ujxni the surrounding world, has been the desire of many, though enjoyed by few. Here the "iron horse," guided by the hand of genius, climbs triumi)hantly to the dizzy height of 6,285 feet, more than a mile in the air, where the "storm- king," riding on the wings of the whirlwind, have hitherto reigned su- AMMONOOSUC FALLS. 62 POPULAK RESORTS, AND HOW TO KKACU THEM. preme ; and yet all this is done in absolute safety, and witli as much ease as the same distance could be accomplished over any road in the country. The ascent should be made the subject of some preparation. To at- tempt it improperly clothed would risk the pleasure of the excursion. You may not meet a snow storm, or find icicles hanging from the roof in the morning; but you are liable to any month in the year. Ladies, particularly, should not relie upon a shawl alone for protection, but add a full suit of winter extra under-clothing. You will find the house on the summit heated by steam, and a cheerful fire in the grate ; but you should not, for want of proper clothing, lose the opportunity for out-of-door pleasures. Ihe views while as- cending and descending are supremely grand. To stand upon the summit of Mount Washington is the one desire of every visitor to the mountain- region. Here, from the highest point on the Atlantic slope, he can look down upon this vast panorama of hills and valleys, cities and plains, dotted with a thousand silvery lakes blended into one harmonious whole. Without putting foot upon the ground, he is lifted step by step up this rugged steep, to the very doors of the Hotel, which, bound with chains to the barren cliff, has been built and furnished to receive him. The Mount "Washington Summit House accommodates con- veniently one hundred and seventy-five guests, though more than two hundred have been entertained. Several thousand persons visited it divr- ing the past season. Its appointments are very complete. Lighted by gas, and heated by steam, with all modern improvements, a liberal table, and good attendance, the visitor can be made comfortable for any length of time. Stages run from the railroad depot to all the prominent houses, enabling tourists to return by any route they choose. POPULAK ItESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 63 PLEASURE ROUTE No. 2. Boston and Vicinity to the Summer Resorts of Northern Vermont, Lake Memphremagog, Montreal, and Quebec. PASSUMPSIC AND SOUTH-EASTEIJN RAILROADS. Tourists go by Pleasure Route No. 1, by Lowell or Lawrence, ]Man- chester, Concord, Plymouth (twenty minutes tor dinner), to Wells River Junction. A short distance south from Wells River, at Newbury Station, the visitor will find Newbury Sulphur Springs. They are located near the village, and are a favorite resort of invalids and travellers, being well recommended by the medical faculty. The village, which is rurally pleasant, commands a fine view of the Connecticut River, and the rugged hills of New Hampshire beyond. Mount Pulaski is near at hand, and the whole surface is charmingly diver- sified. If from this point we continue up the river by the " Passumpsic " due north, along a route rich in landscape beauties, passing en route the thriving village of St. Johnsbury, after an hour's ride we reach the quiet station of Went Burke, from whence by stage a half dozen miles, we are taken to "Willoughby Lake, which, although inferior in size to many lakes in New England, has no superior in picturesque variety and beauty. It is favorably known to the travelling public as a summer resort, and is situated between two high mountains, Annanance (AVil- loughby) and Hor, which rise abruptly from its shores. The water is of remarkable depth : over six hundi-ed feet sounding has failed to find bottom. AVilloughby Lake is six miles long, and about two in width. A pleasure-drive has been constructed along the east side. There are many points of rare interest in the neighborhood, among which are Mount Annanance, Mount Hor, Silver Cascade, Point of Rocks, &c. Mount Annanance, or Willom/hhi/ as it is generally called, thirty- eight hundred feet high, derives its name from that of an Indian chief of the St. Francis tribe, who here made his home. This elevation is generally visited on foot, the path leading up through a beautiful forest with occasional glimpses of the lake, whose quiet waters lave the rocks below. It is not, however, until the summit is reached that the visitor realizes the richness of the scene about to be spread out before him. A fine panoramic view, embracing the Comiecticut Valley, the Franconia and White Mountains of New Hampshire, the nearer peaks of Mansfield, Camel's Hump, Killington, and Jay; Owl's Head in Canada, and the Adirondacks of New York, in the distance ; while near at hand the beautiful waters of Willoughby Lake, and the bold outline of Blount Hor which rises beyond, — serine to form one of the most effective scenes in New England. 64 POI'ULAK KESOBTS, ANJ) HOW TO KEACH THEM. CANADA AND THE PKOVINCES. Lake Memphremagog is the connecting link between the summer resorts of New England and Canada, more than half its surface being in the latter country. It is the next point of interest after leaving West Burk Station. It is an unusually pleasing sheet of water, about thirty miles long, hemmed in by bold, ragged mountains, traversed by pleasure- boats, from whose decks, as they steam along its quiet surface, rich views of the surroiuiding scenery may be had. The lake varies from two to four miles in width, its bold shores and numerous islands contributing wonderfully to the interest of the scene. The village of Newport, Vt., located at the southern extremity, is already an inland watering-place of considerable repute, and its fine summer houses are rapidly increas- ing in fame and popidarity. Bolton Springs in Canada, fourteen miles distant ; Cljjde R'wer Falls. two miles ; Mount Morrill, two miles ; Bear Mountain, seven miles, and Prospect Hill, close at hand, — these are among the points of interest near Newport. From Prospect Hill a charming view is presented, not only of the lake and mountains near by ; but Mount Annanance, Jay Peak. Orford, Elephantis, and Owl's Head, are all visible, and, with the lake and its picturesque islands, combine to form an exceedingly interesting landscape. Owl's Head, Canada, a conical peak of singular formation, having an altitude of nearly three thousand feet, rises from the west shore of Lake Memphremagog. Steamers.^^». route from Newport to Magog make a landing at its base. The ascent is made from the Mountain House, a half-mile distant, bj' a footpath. The view from its summit is unusu- ally fine, and well repays the hard climb to secure it. Round Island, Minnow Island, and Skinner's Island, with its cave of legendary fame, are among the local attractions. Mount Elephantis guards the western shores of Lake Memphre- magog. It is not visited as much as Owl's Head; but its attractions are enhanced by a sparkling lake, two miles in length, far up its side. which is noted alike for the crj'stal purity of its waters, and tlie abund- ance of trout it contains. Mount Orford is one of the attractions of the village of JVIagog. It is reached by a pleasant di'ive, and a carriage-road extends to its sum- mit. It is the highest peak in the vicinity, and commands a fine pros- pect. The Anllage of Magog is also visited daily by stage, sixteen miles from Sherbrooke on the (Jrand Trunk Hailwav- POPULAIt KKSOKTS, AND HOW TO KEACH THEM. 65 Pinnacle Mountain and Lake are about ten miles from Stanstead, but have not yet attained great popularity. The mountain is the most singular feature, rising with great precipitousness from the lake below. Lake Massa"wippi, on the line of the Passumpsic Railroad, affords rare sport for the fisherman. It is only about a mil6 and a half in width, yet extends for nine miles. It is overlooked by Blackberry Moun- tain, which rises from its eastern shore. Lachine Rapids are among the most thrillingly fascinating attrac- tions in the vicinity of Montreal ; a visit to which is usually made by the cars, and the return by steamer. " The Lachine Rapids are visited by taking the seven, a.m., train (at the Bonaventure Station) to Lachine, where a steamer is in waiting, by which the tourist returns through the rapids to Montreal, arriving about nine, a.m. After taking a pilot from the Indian village of Caughnawaga, the steamer passes out. Suddenly a scene of wild grandeur breaks upon the eye : waves are lashed into spray and into breakers of a thousand forms, by the submerged rocks which they are dashed against in the head- long impetuosity of the river. Whirlpools, a storm-lashed sea, the chasm below Niagara, all mingle their sublimity in a single rapid ; now pass- ing with lightning speed within a few yards of rocks, which, did your vessel but touch them, would reduce her to an utter wreck before the crash could sound upon the ear. Did she even diverge in the least from her course, if her head were not kept straight with the course of the rapid, she would be instantly submerged and rolled over and over. Before us is an absolute precipice of waters : on every side of it are breakers, like dense avalanches thrown high into the air. " Ere we can take a glance at the scene, the boat descends the wall of waves and foam like a bird, and in a second afterwards you are floating on the calm, unruffled bosom of ' below the rapids.' " The Falls of The Shawanegan are visited from the city of Three Rivers, usually in canoes. Notwithstanding the magnitude and grandeur of these attractions, the difficulty of reaching them has detracted mate- rially from their popularity. They are on the St. Maw-ice River, thirty miles above the city of Three Rivers. The towering rocks which set their bounds rise on either side, between which the stream makes a fearful plunge of one hundred and fifty feet. 66 POPUI.AK ItESOKTS, AND HOW TO KEACH THEISI. PLEASURE ROUTE No. 3. Boston, Lowell, Lawrence, Lynn, Salem, Newburyport,. Dover, and Portsmouth, to Portland and the East, Lake Winnepesaukee, North Conway, and the White Mountains. K ASTERN KAU.KOAI). The Eastern Railroad, aside from leading directly to the popular watering places in Massachusetts, New Hampshire, and Maine, and behig- the through line to Bangor, St. Jolm, and the Provinces, is also one of the principal routes of approach to Lak:) "Winnepesaukee and North Con- way; and, in its intersection with the "Portland and Ogdensburg," to the A^Hiite Mountains proi:)er, through the picturesque valley of the Saco, and the famous Wliite Mountain Notch. Of the four depots in the northern section of the city of Boston, the " Eastern " holds a central position, and is in the immediate proximity of each. It is also connected with those of the soutliern portion of the city by horse-railways, rendering it easy of access for strangers.' This road extends from Boston to Portland, and Boston to North Conway, with a branch to Wolfboro'. There are also several other branches; viz., Saugus, Swampscott, JMarblehead, Salem and Lawrence, South Reading, Gloucester, Essex and Amesbury, and Portsmouth and Dover. No route in New England possesses more varied charms for tlie tourist and pleasure-seeker. Twenty-eight seashore-resorts are reached by the Eastern Raili-oad and its branches; the more prominent of which are Chelsea or Revere, Nahant, Swampscott, Marblehead, Lowell Island, Gloucester, Rockport, Pigeon Cove, Plumb Island, Salisbury, Hampton or Boar's Head, Little Boar's Head, Rye, Isles of Shoals, Kittery, York, Wells, Cape Arundel, Old Orchard, Mount Desert, and all others in Maine. ]\Iost of these are directly on the main line of this road, and all in close proximity to it. Chelsea, Mass., was one of Starr King's favorite spots for sight- seeing. " Powder-horn Hill," with its remarkal)le pictures extending over a circle of miles, was a special object of frequent visits with the scholarly and enthiisiastic young preacher, the rising or the setting of the sun being his chosen times for studying its wonderful beauties. The name has been ai'bitrarily altered to " The Highlands," which is more preten- tious, certainly; but old names, after all, cling closest to historic associa- tions. The " Eastern Railroad " and horse-cars pass through the city. Chelsea Beach (Revere) is no part of Chelsea proper: it possesses many points of interest, and its proximity to Boston makes it a place of great resort in the hot months. A line of horse-cars connects it with Boston. POPULAB RESORTS, AND UOW TO REACH THEM. 67 Nahant, Mass., is among the mature celebrities of the New-Eiier- laiid coast. It is one of those rare combinations of natural and remark- able beauties which assert their superiority without the need of art or special praise. Yet Nahant is a lesson. It teaches the fickleness of human fancy, and the uncertainty of popular favor. If this really charming spot were onl}' located a hundred or more miles from the lead- ing marts of New- England trade, it would scarce find a rival in fashion- able and public approval. It is too near Boston and other cities, too easy of access, and too comfortable generally, to attract the great multi- tude, who prove that "distance lends enchantment to the view " of a summer trip and life, by seeking remote and out-of-the-way places in preference. Yet Nahant is so delightfully located, so varied in its scenery and surroundings, so dotted with wonderful curiosities of nature, so graced with romantic and ever-varying specialties, and so readily reached, that the number of its summer residents and brief visitors will ever be very lai-ge. It was the chief resort of the wealthy and the gay only a few years since; but the worshippers of fashion now travel to other shrines. Lynn, Mass., is a busy and thriving city, famed as the leading shoe- manufacturing place on the continent. A lofty and conmianding emi- nence called High Rock, fi-om which a singularly picturesque view is obtained, is the chief point of attraction to the traveller. Swauipscott and Nahant, popular resorts, are contiguous. Trains on tlie Eastern Railroad, and horse-cars from Boston, pass through the city. S"Wampscott, adjoining Lynn, is a favorite with the wealthy classes of Boston and neighboring cities, and has numerous costly and elaborate sununer residences. Its comfortalile boarding-houses have attracted many strangers for a summer's sojourn. The chief industry of the place is fishing; and a very clever addition to the season's profits is made by letting rooms and dwellings during tlie summer months. Gloucester, Mass., is the great centre of the New England fishing interests. Thousands of her hardy population pursue their perilous avocation at all seasons of the year, and upon all the great fishing- grounds, especially upon the Banks of Newfoundland. No season passes without its sad tragedies among the vast fleet which leaves the harbor of Gloucester. The .som-ces of pleasure and of cultivated intercourse located around Gloucester are worthy of an elaborate detail, and are full of agreeable surprises and rare delights. Great numbers take the cars of the Eastern Railroad, or boats from Boston direct, in the travelling season. 68 POPUIiAB RESOBTS, AND HOW TO KEACH THEM. Rockport, Mass., was once a part of Gloucester. This place will not attract a great deal of attention from sight-hunters, although its extensive granite-quarries will richly repay a visit. The famous and justly popular resort called Pigeon Cove is close by Rockport. This and other spots of novel and rare curiosities form a group of too much interest to be overlooked; and it has long been a fixed centre for a very large summer attendance. Few i^laces on the JSTew- England coast afford greater gratifications to visitors. Newburyport, Plumb Island, and Salisbury Beach possess a local fame, and receive considerable patronage from the towns adja- cent, but cannot be recommended to the general public. The bathing at Plumb Island is treacherous; Salisbury Beach is better, but the loose sands prevent driving. The town of Hampton, N.H., has little to distinguish it from towns of modest pretensions generally ; but its beach — Hampton Beach — is renowned in every quarter. Bocu-'s Head, a bold and commanding promontory, projecting a quarter of a mile from the mainland directly into the sea, is the hospitable castle which " lords it " over the adjacent beaches. Here the admirer of the murmuring sea can find full scope for his admiration. The views fi'om this lofty eminence are numberless and varied. The origin of the name is somewhat shrouded in mystery. Tra- dition says it was given by fishermen, from the similarity of its foam-laved rocks, when lashed by the fury of the waves, to the enraged boar. This summer resort lias been long and favorably known. The house stands on the crest of a rocky promontory, which rises gradually to the height of eighty feet, against whose jagged base for ages '^°^^'- past the waves in ceaseless roll have dashed their whitened spray. On either side, stretching for miles away, extend beau- tiful beaches, whose waters furnish rare facilities for bathing, and whose hardened sands present a. surface for driving not excelled along this coast. Little Boar's Head, JSTorth Hampton, IST.H., is a connecting link between Hamj)ton and Rye Beaches. It would be famous but for the superioiity of its great rival, Boar's Head. It is a projection also into the sea, but of a lesser altitude. These marked spots, adjacent to such grand beaches as Hampton and Rye, are assured of a constant popularity. This is a favorite summer resort for families of taste and refinement. At present there is no hotel, but many excellent boarding-houses. POPULAR KESOKTS, AND UOW TO liKACII THKM. 69 Rye Beach, N.H., half a century ago had an occasional straggling admirer, or i»»ssil)ly a company from the back country, in the summer season, to appreciate its beauties, and enjoy its lonely solitude. But it has since acquired a distinctive fame. At present its popularity is widely established, and thousands make it their resort for recreation and rest. It is animated and exhilai-ating in " the season," and is able to maintain its partial preference against aU rivals of the coast. It is abundantly supplied with every source of enjoyment, — city, country, sea, and fashionable elegances and refinements, and all modes and moods of life, to suit all tastes. Portsmouth, N.H., has prove;! an admirable place from whicli to emigrate. It has one of the best harbors, rears the smartest of men and most charming of women, but the city persists in not growing in popu- lation. It is a grand centre or starting-point, however, from which to visit a vast number of famed and delightful spots; and it wears a thronged and busy air during the hot months. It has, in the Rockingham House, a first-class hotel, which in all its appointments exhibits an air of elegance and comfort, and is convenient as a '• roost " for travelling birds. Frost's Point, near Portsmouth, N.H., is a very pleasant place, and has a local popularity. The Isles of Shoals, ofE Portsmouth Harbor, have risen to wonderful fam(! within twenty yeai'S. Fifty years ago it was one of the places to visit, and have a chowder, and was noted for its wild and rugged features, even in those prosaic days. It is now a fixture in popular favor, and is visited by multitudes, who make a marked stay there in summer time. Its chief interest lies in its remoteness from the land, and its home in the sea. The entire scene is wild, grim, and barren, excepting the homehke comforts which enterprise and money have sup- plied. We have written of "The Isles of Shoals " as "it," although there are half a dozen islands in the group; but we have always associated the places with the idea of but one. And old people still call them " Isle of Shoals; " and this is not far from correct. The eccentric Leighton, who really laid the foundation for the present great fame of this resort of pleasure, faithfully believed, that no person coming there, however sick, could die of disease if the invalid remained. Mr. Leighton, although living to a good old age, now rests with his fathers. New Castle is one of the marine suburbs of Portsmouth, three miles distant. It has a new summer hotel, pleasantly located. 70 POPULAIl BESOKTS, AND HOW TO KI'^ACH THEM. Kittery Point. — This quaint old Maine town, recently rejuvenated for a .summer resort, possesses, in its historic associations, its admirable location, and its cool, exhilarating atmosphere, many attractions for the visitor who desires quiet and repose. Its principal hotel — the " Pep- perell House" — occupies an elevated and commanding site, and the harbor offers unusual facilities for boating and fishing. The o-overnment navy yard is near at hand, Portsmouth is across the harbor,- and the Isles of Shoals in full view but a few miles away. Take cars on the Eastern Railroad to Portsmouth or Kittery Station. York Beach, Me., and, beyond that. Bald Head Cliflf (a wild, stern, defiant-list rock, in almost constant battle with the waves of the sea), are places of interest, and when better known will command their share of patronage. The run to these points can be made by stage a half dozen miles from Portsmouth. Wells and Old Orchard Beaches can also be reached by this road ; the formei- by stage, six miles from Wells Station, and the latter, five miles by stage from Saco. There is little of interest between Saco and the city of Portland. For a description of the city of Portland and vicinity, see separate article. TO THE INTER! OK. Leaving such of our friends as we have directed to the numerous watering-i:)laces on the coast to th^ir own amusement, we return to the "• Conway Branch," to accompany those who desire to see that charming inland resort, Lake Winnepesaukee, to visit North Conway and the in- termediate points, or go with us to the White Mountains proper. The " Conway Branch " diverges from the main line a few miles east of the city of Portsmouth, and continues northward past Berwick, Great Falls, to Conway and Noi'th Conway; another road branches from this to Lake Winnepesaukee, where connection is made by boats to all points on the lake, and with the Boston, Concord, and Montreal Railroad beyond. At West Ossipee the stage from Centre Harbor, with tourists that have crossed Lake Winnepesaukee, from the Boston, Concord, and Montreal, and Boston and Maine Roads, intersects with this railroad Avith which its passengers continue. Centre Harbor, "Wolfboro", and Alton Bay are the three prom- inent places on Lake Winnepesaukee. The former is mentioned in Pleasure Route No. 1. Wolfboro' is pleasantly located on the east shore of the lake, at the terminus of the Wolfboro' Branch Railroad, and has several hotels. Alton Bay is at the lower end of the lake, reached by the Boston and Maine Railroad and the steamer " Mount AVashington." POPUr.Ali liKSOUTS, AM) HOW TO liKACII TIIK.M. 71 Mount Chocorua, N.H., 3,:io8 feet hi.nh, is luo.st easily reached from West (Jssipee Statiou. Tiie trip to Chocorua, eight miles distant, is tedious, but amply repays those physically aide to make it. This moun- tain is more Alpine in its character and outline than any in New Hamp- shire. The beautiful Chocorua Lake is jjassed en route, from whose borders one of the finest views of tiie mountain may be had. The surface, from far below its summit, is comi)letely bare of vegetation. High overhanging rocks seem ready to topple fiojn its craggy peak. The view from Mount Chocorua is a singular combination of the l)eau- tiful and gi-and. Ilundrc^ds of lakelets dot the landscape, increasing in size to the charming VN'innepesaukee, from whose placid bosom si)ring myriads of leafy islets: while nortliward the mountains rise tier above tier to Washington and the "Presidential (iroup.'* The Ossipee and Sand"wich Mountains are also visited from this place, which is sur- rounded by pictures(|ue scenery, and must eventually become a pojmlar resort. Indeed, this entire region, extending from Centre Harbor to Wolfboro", embracing the towns on the eastern shore of Lake Winnepe- saukee, is filled with interesting localities, and is beginning to be annnal- ly frequented by persons looking foi- the quiet, substantial requirements of summer life. Ossipee Lake is usually visited from Bank's Hotel at this station. The road to it passes many attractive points: among which may be named an Indian mound, from which various articles of interest have been ex- humed, including arrow-heads, implements of various kinds, and human bones. The lf>cality also has its historic associations. The remains of Lovewell's Fort (l)uilt by Capt. Lovewell's band in 17lV>) are .still pointed out. The lake once reached, a IVeliug of sequestered quietude reigns. It is less than half a dozen miles long, and the close proximity of Chocorua and the Ossipee ^Mountains increase the interest, and add to the beauty of the scene. Ossipee Falls, in Moultonboro', within a few years have received many visitors, and as an auxiliary attraction to other resorts, are very fine. Passaconaway Mountain, N.H., 4.200 feet high, is one of tho.se bold, unfrequented peaks lying west from Conway, and north-east of Whitcfnce of the Sandwich ;Mountains. At present it is but little known to tourists, and will only be visited by the adventurous spirit desirous of studying Nature in her primeval state. This mountain l)ears the name of a famous Indian sachem of the Pennacooks. a warlike tribe whose ter- ritory embraced this region at the time of its discovery by the English, (io by the West Ossipee and Centre Harbor stage to Sandwich, from West Ossipee to Centre Harbor. 72 POPUIiAB EESOliTS, AND HOW TO BEACH THKM. Whiteface Mountain, N.H., 4,100 feet high, is the most noted of the group known as tlie Sandwich Mountains. The number of visitors has increased within a few years. The fine prospect from its summit is said to amply repay the arduous climb to secure it. The view of Lake Winnepesaukee is particularly fine. Stages between Centre Harbor and West Ossipee which connect with the lake boats pass through Sandwich, intersecting the railroad at West Ossipee, for North Conway and the White Moimtains. This whole country in this neighborhood is exceed- ingly fine. North Conway is a pleasant little village located upon the banks of the Saco River, and is the central feature of the charming Saco valley. Thfere are several fine hotels, ranging from the first class to the com- fortable country inn : indeed, nearly every house is a boaixling-house. The inhabitants are largely migratory, going and coming with the birds, and through the hot months of summer resting in the shades of Conway's famous elms, sauntering along her sparkling streams, or climbing her rugged mountains. North Conway has one noted moun- tain, — Pequawket, or Klarsarge, as frequently called, though by this name it is confounded with JNIount Kearsan/e, in the western part of the State. Mount Pequawket is three miles from the village, has a good bridle- path ; and a public house on the summit furnishes refreshments or lodg- ings for those who desire. Diana's Baths, Hart's Ledges, Echo Lake, and Artist's Falls are among the attractions of tlie place. At North Conway the Eastern Railroad intersects the Portland and Ogdensbui'g Railroad, by which tourists continue to the Crawford House, White Mountain Notch, or by stage to the Glen House on the eastern side of the mountains. The stage line to the Glen House is still in operation, and many i:)refer this route of approach. Goodrich Falls are passed en route : and it also leads through >'Pinkham Notch," one of the natm-al thoroughfares to the mountains. Glen Ellis Palls are among the most attractive in New Hampshii-e. The}' axe in the woods at the right of the road, six miles before reaching the Glen House. Crystal Cascade, of equal height, is at the left, a mile farther on. T/iomjison's Falls are still nearer the house. (For ooiitinued description to the moiuitaius, soe Portland and Ogdensburg Railroad.) POPULAR BESOHTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 73 PLEASURE ROUTE No. 4. Boston, Lowell, Lawrence, Haverhill, and Dover, to Lake Winnepesaukee, Wells, Cape Arundel, and Old Orchard Beaches, Portland, Mount Desert, North Conway, and the White Mountains. J{OS'J(JN AND MAINE RAILROAD. While the Eastern Railroad has run along the coast, distributing tour- ists at the various seaside resorts east of Portsmouth, the Boston and Maine, whose depot in Boston is in Haymarket Sf^uare, at the head of Washington Street, has kept inland, passing through several cities and villages to Dover, whence a " Branch " leads up the Cocheco ^'alley to Lake Winnepesaukee, which is crossed thirty miles by steamer to Wolf- boro' and Centre Harbor, and thence by stage and rail to North Conway, continuijig to the White Momitains over the line of the Portland and Ogdensburg Railroad, to which description the reader is referred for a continuation of the route. Returning to Dover, the road soon leads gradually towards the coast, which it touclies at Wells Beach, an old and well-known summer w'atering-place. Coaches at the depot take visitors to the hotels, two miles distant. Kenneburdc is the next regular station. Three miles away by stage is Cape Arundel, a new resort just s])ringing into existence. The beaches here are short, althougli vei-y good for bathing. Cape Arundel will be eschewed by the fashionable tourist whose pleasure comes from " drives " and " hops," and whirls of excitement; but the lover of rock.s and foaming spray, the student of nature in her w'ildest moods, should not pass it by. Old Orchard Beach is the next point of int<>rest to the tourist. At no place along the New England coast has natin-e done so much, or planned such a magnificent beach, as here. For nine miles the surface is level and hard, and it has few equals in the country. As much can- n(jt be said of the hotels. Good fair accommodations are furnished, nothing more, nor are the prices high. But with such hotels as those at Newport, Long Branch, or Cape ^lay. Old Orchard might become the (pieen watering-place in the land. From Old Orchard to Portland there is little to interest the tourist. From here he may go by steamer to ISIount Desert, continue by the Maine Central Railroad to Rangeley or Moosehead Lakes, to St. John and the Provinces ; or he may go to the White Mountains by the Portland and Ogdensburg, or Grand Trunk Railways. See description of Portland. I'OI'ULAlt KESOKTS, A.\I> UOW TO IJEACU THKM. 75 PORTLAND AND VICINITY. Portland, the cliief city of the State of Maine in point of population and commerce, is situated at tlie southerly extremity of Casco Bay, and contains about thirtjj'^-five thousand inhabitants. It is of considerable importance as a railroad centre, being the terminus of six different roads converging at that point, and of immerous lines of steamers constantly plying between Portland and Xew York, Boston, Eastern Maine, and the British Provinces, and is the winter port of three lines of European steamers. Its facilities for communication are excellent; there being despatched daily eight trains and one steamer to Boston, connecting there with points farther south and west, besides several trains daily for IMontreal and Quebec, Bangor, St. John, N.B., and Halifax, N.S., weekly; also tri-weekly steamers for Bangor, Mount Desert, St. John, Halifax, &c., and steamers four times a week for New York direct. FALMOUTH HOUSE. As n pleasure resort, Portland is becoming well known throughout the country; and the number of visitors to the city and its vicinity is increas- ing with each summer's return. Not only in lines of communication, but in hotels and other accommodations, is she particularly fortunate. The " Falmouth," " United States," and " Preble " are the leading houses ; each of these possesses its peculiar merits. The " Falmouth " is a first-class house in all its appointments : it is the largest, and is the only hotel in the State that has an elevator, a lux- ury that the weary traveller can appreciate. The tourist who concludes to "do " Portland will find rich materials for his sketch-book and his notations. The vicinity is not only rich in landscape scenery, but the climate is delightfully cool, the heat of sum- POPULAR RESOKTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. mer being tempered by the pleasant sea-breezes from the ocean, three miles distant, which combine to enhance its charms. The United States Hotel is centrally located, and has been recently rejuvenated and put in condition to accommodate guests. It stands on Market Square, at the junction of Middle and Congress Streets, the principal thoroughfares of the city. Portland is built ujDon a small peninsula jutting into Casco Bay; and a ridge of land through its centre, sloping on both sides to the water, affords excellent drainage. At the east and west extremities are high elevations, known respectively as Munjoy and Bramhall, with fine drive- ways and promenades, which command grand and extensive views of the surrounding country. The observatory on Munjoy, which no one should fail to visit, is provided with a powerful telescope, sweeping the horizon in every direction, by aid of which nearly every summit of the White Mountain Range, eighty miles distant, can be easily distinguished. The view from this point seaward is magnifi- cent, embracing as it does the niimerous islands of Casco Bay, the surrounding coasts, and an uninterrupted view of old Ocean, extending more than thirty miles from land, dotted with sails, and flecked with foam. The shady streets and attractive suburbs invite to charming walks and drives through their quiet avenues. It is visited yearly by families and parties who spend their entire summer vacations hereabout, inter- spersed with short-trip excursions in the harbor, to Mount Desert, Frye- burg, Sebago Lake, Winnepesaukee, North Conway, or the White Mountains, all of which are within a few hours of Portland, and of easy access. UNITED STATES HOTEL. Casco Bay, with its fifteen-score of islands, their rocky promon- tories and pleasant coves, their green fields and forests rivalling in romantic beauty the archipelagoes of Greece, is much visited during the pleasure season. The islands nearer the city contain a consider- able population ; and their many good hotels and boarding-houses are well supported in the summer. Four steamers of good capacity and accommodations run daily betw-een them and the city, making several POPULAJt KESOHTS, AND HOW TO KP:ACH THKM. 77 trips each way, and are largely patronized. The round trip is made in from one to two hours, and forms a delightful afternoon's recreation. Casco Bay, the musical waters whereof sing sweet songs, even up to the margin of the discordant city, — Casco Bay seems expressly formed for the lovers of the romantic, the beautiful, and the wonderful. Here Nature has nestled the charms of the sea and of the land in almost every variety, — in miniature continents, rivers, hills, valleys, bluffs, beaches, wild rocks, soft verdure, fragrant flowers, and birds of richest WHITE HEAD CLIFF, PORTLAND HARBOR. 1)1 11 mage and sweetest song. Indeed, the dullest nature is moved with unwonted stirrings, approaching the poetic; and the man of sensibility feels a pleasure rarely found, all the more keen that the noisy and dis- orderly crowd have not yet invaded this undefiled j^aradise of the sea and shore. More extended trips are also daily made which are assuming a national popularity. Mount Desert, Old Orchard, Cape Aniudel and AVells B;^aches, Fryeburg, North Conway, and the White Mountains are all within a few hour's ride. 78 POPULAR JBESOKTS, AND HOW TO KKACH THEM. POPvTLAND, BANGOR, AND MACHIAS STPZAMBOAT COMPANY. The steamer "Lewiston," after receiving passengers from the East- ern, Boston and Maine, Portland and Rochester, Portland and Ogdens- biirg, and Grand Trmik Railroads, and Boston Boats, leaves Portland from Railroad Wharf every Tuesday and Friday evening, at ten, p.m., touching at Rockland at five o'clock the next morning, Castine at seven, and arriving at Mount Desert at noon. One has biit to glance at the map of Maine to become impressed with its wonderfully serrated coast, its numerous bays and headlands, sand and gravelly beaches, rocks, coves, and outstanding islands, embracing some of the most delightfully rural resorts i]i the country. Many of these are passed en route, and the morning view from the steamer's deck is enchanting. Mount Desert is the rising star of Maine's attractions for the summer-home seekers. Apart from any little side-shows which may have been put u]i in the papers from time to time by shrewd and calcu- lating capitalists, Mount Desert has gifts that are all its own, and sucli as will continue to swell its fame as years progTess, and its charms become revealed. Its area is reckoned at aliout a liundred square miles : and it is, therefoi-e, quite a little world in itself. The island might aptly be likened to a lot of marl>lps dropped from a pocket of a giant, provided a giant's marbles were small mountains. At least, the more notable and striking j^ortions of tlie island are made up of a group of mountains huddled together, of a singularly wild grandeur. Upon one portion there is a sheer and almost vertical descent of rock, nearly a thousand feet fi'om the brink to the deep water beloM- ; and the progress of the explorer is constantly met liy changes ami surprises of panoramic and kaleid- oscopic beaiity. Much fine soil is found, which is considerably culti- vated ; but the inhabitants are cliiefly absorl.)ed in fish-catching. Portions of Mount Desert are still primeval in their solitudes ; and Nature yet prevails in lier simplicity and peculiar sovereignty. Hence wild game may still be hunted ; and sylvan streams are enriched by great numbers of the gamey trout. The indications within a few years are unmistakable that Mount Desert will take a rank among the families of the wealthy and fashionable second to none on the coast, or even on the continent. As soon as the needed capital decides to invest, and the newspapers open their trumpet throats to proclaim INIount Desert and " all about it," the armies of summer pilgrims will connnence the mighty march to gTand and glorious ]Mount Desert. Go by steamers of the Portland, Bangor, and Machias Steamboat Company, or by boat from Rockland, connecting with the Knox and Lincoln Raihoad. Good accommodations at South Wext, Harbor may be had at the Ocean House, and A'isitors to Bor Harbor will be well entertained at the Rodick House and others. POPUI-AIi KKSOKTS, AN1> HOW TO liKAClI THKM. 79 UP THE PKNOBSCOT. The scenery alons;- the Penobscot is imusually fine. Sumuier liotels are springing up; and when this interesting region is fully understood, through descriptions and illustrations, it must become popular with tour- ists. In full view are the Megunticook Peaks (altitude 1, 855-1, 4."i7 feet). They are near the pleasant river village, Camden, and form one of its attractions. Although of less elevation than many mountain resorts, they command views of rare landscape interest, combining moun- tains in the north ; the serpentine windings of the Penobscot, bounded by cultivated farms and thriving villages; and, south-east and east, Penobscot Bay with its thousand "sea-girt isles." Camden is passed by two lines of steamers, Portland and Bangor, and Sanford's Indejiend- ent Line from Boston, both of which touch lierp. PORTLAND LIGHT. Near the head of Penobscot Bay, and within twenty-five miles of Bangor the boats pass Fort Point, a place of much scenic interest, and famed for its many historic recollections. The ruins of Fort Pownal, built by the English in 1759, still remain. Near by on the " Point," a summer hotel, the Massauml-ear/, has been recently erected, which forms a commanding feature in the landscape, and which, from its cool loca- tion, fine scenery, and good fishing and boating m the vicinity, is receiv- ing its full share of patronage. so POPUIiAK KESOKTS, AND HOW TO KEACH THEM. PLEASURE ROUTE No. 5. Portland to Sebago Lake, North Conway, and the White Mountains. PORTLAND AND OGDEXSBURG RAILROAD. No more attractive route to and from the "White Mountains is afforded to tourists than this from Portland, Me., up the beautiful valleys of the Presumpscot and Saco Rivers, by the lovely ISebago Lake, and through the famous intervales of Fryeburg and Conway, and the wonderful Crawford or White Mountain Notch to Cra\\'ford or Fabyan Houses. In former days it was considered the most interesting of the many stage- routes to the mountains ; the gradual and distinctly marked transition from the lowlands of the coast, to the higher and grander elevations of the mountain region, invests it with untiring interest for the traveller from the beginning to the end of the journey. The recently constructed Portland and Ogdensburg Raih-oad follows almost without deviation the old and popular stage-route, and without losing the attractions of the old highway, has opened new scenes of beauty; and, for the short time that it has been open to travel, has already acquired an enviable reputation as a pleasure route, and will, as it becomes better known, have an honored place in the itinerary of every visitor to the mountains, as the mountain tour is not complete if the Portland and Ogdensburg Railroad is over- looked, especially that portion of it which passes through the " Notch." The many lines of railroad and steamboat conveyance, centring at Portland from Boston and the South and West, make this city a most available point from which to commence a mountain trip. Portland, of itseK, possesses many attractions, and is becoming celebrated as a sum- mer resort. Its fine hotels, beautiful walks and drives in and around the city, the magnificent views of ocean and inland scenery to be ob- tained at various points within the city limits, and its proximity to many popular resorts of the seashore and country, make it a desirable stopping place for the pleasm-e-seeker. But those wishing to avail them- selves of a ride over the Portland and Ogdensburg Railroad are by no means obliged to stop over at Portland, luiless arriving in the city late at night; in which case a good night's rest will prepare them to enjoy all the more heartily the trip from Portland to the mountains. The Port- land and Ogdensburg trains connect closely with the Eastern and Boston and ]\Iaine Railroads from Boston, and the ue^^' through line from New York direct, via Worcester and Nashua, and the Portland and Rochester Railroad, and also with the fine steamers of the Portland Steam-Packet Company, which leave Boston every evening dmiug the siunmer season ; and arrive in Portland in season to take cars POPTTLAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 81 for North Conway and the mountains, which will be reached the same evening; passengers meanwhile enjoying the near approach to the moun- tains by sunset, the most beautiful hour of the day. The time from Portland to Crawford or Fabyan's is but little over three hours; and parties going by way of Portland from Boston will arrive as early as by any other route. It will thus be seen, that, while rivalling all others in attractiveness, this route is as expeditious as any to the mountains. SEBAGO LAKE. Portland and Ogdensburg Railroad. A brief description of some of the more prominent points of interest will serve to show in a slight degree the pleasure to be enjoyed in a trip through its charming scenery; and the personal experience of all who travel this way will relieve us from any charge of exaggeration or partiality. Sebago Lake is the bright spot in our picture ; but we will not anticipate. On leaving the station in Portland, the road passes around the western boundary of the city, along the shore of Fore River, that forms the 82 POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. upper part of the harbor for which Portland is celebrated; and under the brow of Bramhall, a promenade much resorted to by citizens and visitors for its superb and extensive views of the country and the White ]\Ioun- tain range, ninety miles distant. It then crosses the old canal basin, and continues through an open country to Westbrook, five miles from the city. At this point we strike and cross the l^rexumpscot River, along the banks of which beautiful stream the road lies for some seven miles, through the farming town of Windham; affording many picturesque views of the river with its numerous water-powers, mostly unimproved, but awaiting the advent of enterprise, when their energy shall be harnessed to the wheels of industry, making this one of the busiest as it now is one of the most powerful of the rivers of New England. Again crossing the Presumpscot, and passing through a portion of the town of Gorham, we come to iiu uncultivated tract with deep cuttings, whose bare walls of sand and gravel only serve as a reminder of the labor which was expended in preparing for our convenience and pleasure; here also, in a natural depression of the land, nestle the lovely Otter Ponds in calm and retiring beauty; another moment, and, without any previous intima- tion of their nearness, the broad waters of Sehafjn Lale roll at our feet as we dash out from behind a projecting bank upon the shores of the lake, taking in at a glance its wide expanse and distant shores with their outlying hills. Lake Sebago is fourteen miles long, and eleven miles wide in the widest part; and its deep waters, noted for their purity, supply the city of Portland, seventeen miles distant. Through its natural outlet, the Pre- sumpscot River, it also furnishes a series of most valuable water-powers which never fail even in the dryest seasons, nor are subject to disas- trous freshets. The lake with its appendages forms a navigable water extending from the Lake Station on the line of the railroad, and at the southern extremity of Sebago, thirty-four miles, to Harrison at the north- erly end of Long Pond. This latter sheet of water is connected with the lake by Sonr/o lUoer, whose narrow and tortuous channel twists and turns through a course of six miles to overcome a straight distance of only a mile and a half ; a lock near the outlet of Long Pond raises the steamers and other craft plying upon these waters from the level of the lower to tiie upper lake. Two steamers, in summer season, perform the round trip between Sehago Lake Station and Harrison^ starting from either terminus daily, and connecting each trip with the Portland and Ogdensburg trains; and the excursion thus offered is replete with charming attractions, and is rapidly increasing in popularity. The trip to Harrison and return, including landings at Kaples, Bridgton, and North Bridgton, is made in about eight hours; tourists may theu go to J*ortland, North Conway, or the Mountains the same evening. POPITLAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 83 Sebago Lake, with its far-reaching landscapes and distant moun- tain views, the passage through the serpentine windings of the silent and beautiful Songo, and the fair shores of Long Pond dotted with pretty hamlets and thriving villages, offer an excursion of varied and exciting interest, never to be forgotten by the favored ones who partici- pate in its enjoyment. After leaving the Lake Station, the railroad skirts the shores for some three miles, then in almost unbroken tangent strikes across the country to Steep Falls, twenty-five miles from Portland. At this point we reach the Saco River, through whose lovely valley the road is laid until we reach its source at the summit of the mountain pass. Here, too, the tourist will observe that the land assumes a more hilly character: the surface which until now had the general undulating fea- tures common to New England begins to rise in abrupt elevations in- creasing in height as his journey extends, constantly changing to new forms of beauty and grandeur, and gradual^ closing in around him on either side as if to oppose his farther progi-ess. From Steep Falls onward an endless succession of enchanting views gives an untiring interest to the journey. Ever-varying pictures of many-sided nature, harmonious and complete in all the elements of beauty, unfold themselves to the delighted gaze of the traveller. Mountains rising grandly from the plain in gentle slope or more pre- cipitous inclines give grace and dignity to the landscape; and the pano- rama, gi'adually changing from the broad acres of the lowlands to the narrow valleys of Conway and Bartlett shut in with mountain walls, finally culminates in the grand and inspiring passage through the won- derful Craw^ford Notch of the White Mountains. Passing through the town of Baldwin, after leaving Steep Falls we cross the Saco, and enter the town of Hiram; but just before reaching Hiram Bridge two pictures of the river are obtained in such quick suc- cession, and at the same time in such wide contrast with each other, as to vividly impress them upon the memory. After leaving the West Bald- w^in station, and crossing the short high trestle known as Breakneck, you will see on the left through an opening in the woods the Great Falls of the Saco, white with foam, plunging over a solid ledge a total descent of seventy -two feet. As if guarding the seclusion of the scene, there rise on either side high hills thickly wooded from base to summit, whose deep-tinged foliage and overhanging shade give a sombre character to the view. It is a picture of wild and solitary beauty, and is viewed to best advantage from the railroad. "WTien we next see the river, it is in softer mood. The waters lie seemingly motionless beneath the shade of gracefully impending branches, its surface flecked with dancing sunbeams which have pierced the leafy canopy ; and as we obtain a 84 POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. glimpse of the stream in perspective, retiring far within the deep and pleasant shade, it seems the very home of the water -sprites as memory recalls the fairy tales of childhood. But the picture is fleeting ; and with regret that we cannot linger, and enjoy its surpassing loveliness, we hurry on to other scenes; past Hiram and its hilly surroundings, and through the wide meadows of Brownfield, overlooking which stands Mount Pleasant, a mountain situated in the town of Denmark. "We soon reach the beautiful village of Pryeburg, whose broad, shady avenues, en- chanting scenery, and delightful climate, make it a gTowing rival to the more celebrated North Conway. Good hotels and boarding-houses are found here; and the peculiar charms ©f Fryeburg, with its proximity and ease of access to various resorts among the mountains, make it a most desirable spot in which to spend the summer vacation. Before proceeding farther, a short notice of Mount Pleasant will not be amiss. This mountain standing alone, and rising in graceful outline to an elevation of nearly three thousand feet, is reached by a short drive of two or three hours from Fryeburg or Bridgton. A carriage-road has been laid out to the summit, and a commodious hotel erected upon the highest point of the mountain, where visitors are entertained in excellent style. The hotel has been opened only within two years past, but has been largely patronized; and Mount Pleasant has already attained a high place in the esti- mation of pleasure-seekers. Its situation, nearly midway between the loftier peaks of the White Mountains and the seacoast, renders the out- look from its summit one of great variety and interest. On the east side is seen the ocean with its white sails and crested waves, and the roofs and spires of Portland are also iu view. On the west rise the stately domes of the White Hills from the symmetrical Pequawket, or Kiarsarge as it is sometimes called, to the towering peak of Mount Washington. In all directions the vaUey lies spread out in wide extent, adorned with lovely lakes and winding streams, and rich in all the charms of nature. Leaving the village of Fryeburg upon our right, we shortly cross the western boundary of jMaine, and enter the town of Conway in New Hampshire. A fine view of the easterly slope of the Rattlesnake Range is obtained on rounding the curve just out of Fryeburg; and the broad interval, with its graceful elms, standing singly or in groups of pleasant shade, forms a beautiful foreground to the picture. On the left, as we near the station of Centre Conway, is seen the distant Ckocorua, its bold, precipitous ledges sharply outlined against the sky. After leaving Cen- tre Conway we recross the Saco, and, rounding the southerly spur of Rat- tlesnake Range, are quickly arrived at renowned and beautiful North Conway. POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 85 NORTH CONWAY, N.H. When the days begin to lengthen, and the sun runs high in the heavens ; when the short nights fail to cool the heated streets of a dusty city, and man feels that he must have respite from the care and excitements of business ; when the mother rises in the morning xmrefreshed, CONWAY ELMS. 86 POPULAB RESORTS, AND HOW TO BEACH THEM. and the children grow languid for a change ; when, finally, the family council decide that a few weeks' vacation must be spent in the country, — no place can be found where the cool mountain air blows fresher, where the crystal streams flow purer, or where Nature wears a lovelier garb, than at North Conway. Since the early settlement of the country, the praises of Conway's rich meadows have been sung. To-day her broad-sweeping elms and luxuriant gardens indicate the strength of their rich alluvial soil. MT. KIARSARGE FROM NORTH CONWAY. North Conway has an additional advantage, wholly and peculiarly her own. She has a mountain, — Mount Kiarsarge, — which forms an admi- rable objective point for her visitors. It is only two miles distant, and three more to its summit ; yet the prospect from it combines some of the finest panoramic scenery in New England. A small hotel on its crest affords refreshments and shelter for those who desire. The climat'? of North Conway is free from mists and fogs ; and with its pure air, and dry and invigorating atmosphere, it is one of the most desir- able points in the whole White Mountains for those who may be seeking health or pleasure. " And then the sunsets of North Conway ! Cole- ridge asked Mont Blanc if he had ' a charm to stay the morning star in his steejj course.' It is time for some poet to put the question to those bewitching elm-sprinkled acres that border the Saco, by what sorcery they evoke, evening after evening, upon the heavens that watch them, such lavish and Italian bloom. Nay, it is not Italian : for the basis of POPULAR RESORTS, AXD IIOW TO REACH THEM. 87 its beauty is pure blue ; and the skies of Italy are not nearly so clear as those of New England. One sees more clear sky in eight summer weeks in Conway, probably, than in the compass of an Italian year." North Conway is not only noted fcr the beauty of its scenery in the spring and summer months, but later in the season the bright tints of its autumn foliage make it more lovely than ever ; and nowhere can the mag- nificence of the autumnal forest ^cenery of New England be seen to better u.lvautag;^ than on her hills and mountains. Few localities are better or more favorably [ known to the ■ artist world " I til an North Con- way. The varie- tj' of the scenery i s particularly noticeable : while it possesses some of the broadest landscape and mountain views, it is celebrated I for the beauty and artistic value of its choice "bits." Although midsummer is the most fashionable s ason at North Conway, we have our own opinion that it yields more pleasure when nature is fresh and redolent with the sweet breath of spring, or in the later season when valley and hillside are resplendent with the crimson and gold of autumn; and the same is true of the entire mountain toin*. To be sure, the chilly nights must be prepared for; and, if properly provided for in that respect, one need fear no discomfort. At this point passengers who left Boston by the Eastern or Boston and Maine Railroads for the White Mountains join our train. Six miles from North Conway is Glen Station, where stages are in readiness to convey passengers to Jackson (two miles), or to the Glen House fourteen miles distant by way of Pinkhara Notch, one of the three great highways which nature itself has hewn through the mountain wilderness. Six miles beyond we reach Upper Bartlett, shut in on all sides by high mountains, the situation j^ossessing many elements of beauty, in some respects resembling North Conway and its surroundings. DIANA'S BATHS. POPULAR KESORTS, AND HOW TO BEACH THEM. The railroad is already built from this point to Frankenstein Cliff', nine miles distant; with every indication that early in July the entire trip from Portland to the Crawford and Fabyan Houses will be accom- plished in the cars. Leaving Upper Bai'tlett, the road keeps to the valley for some six mibs, delaying till the last moment the steeper ascent it must soon commence; and the mountains, in seeming displeasure at this bold at- tempt to penetrate their hiding-places, draw closer together as if to dis- pute the passage. But onward we ride into the dark shadows of th ^ hills, crossing and recrossing the Saco, or leaping torrents rushing from the mountain side to join the larger stream. Just before reaching Bemis Station, we cross Nanc//^^ Brook, of memorable fame. At Bemis we shall see the old Crawford Homestead with its pretty clearing, and the residence of Dr. Bemis, built of granite quarried from these hills. ' From this place stages will connect temporarily for the Crawford House. Here "begins our ascent of the mountahi side ; and we shall reach, the Gate of the Notch, nine miles distant, by a continuous climb of a hundred feet and more in each mile of the journey. The character of the scenery does not change materially after leaving Bemis, until near- ing Frankenstein Cliff, when the most magnificent view in the entire mountain region rewards our waiting eyes. Towering higli above the beholder, stands Mount Washington in grander proportions than can be observed at a;iy other point. Spurs of high mountains ranging from its sides, like strong arms held out towards u.s, protect in their rough embrace the valley of the Mount Washinglon River, of which we have a splendid view in perspective from its confluence with the Saco to its source far up the side of Mount Monroe. This glorious picture which words fail to describe continues in full view from the road, and is not lost sight of until we have passed under the precipitous cliff of Frankenstein, continuing our journey i\p the side of WilJej/ Mountain. The railroad is most advantageously lo- cated for viewing the conformation of nature in this remarkable moun- tain-pass. Built upon the side-hill hundreds of feet above the old carriage-road, it overlooks the entire valley, and commands an unob- structed view from mountain-sumniit to river-bed throughout the six miles of the " Willey Notch." The advantage of the o]"ien observation cars is now realized. The lofty battlements of Mount Webster, scarred and torn by the storms of ages, guard the valley upon the east, a silent witness to the terrors of the flood which ravaged its fellow guardian of the west, and, beating down the rugged escarpment of the moun- tain, prepared the pathway for commerce which we in later days are utilizing. Across numerous water-courses, and over deep and rocky gorges, or clinging to the sides of precipitous ledges, we ride, each I POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 89 moment revealing to us some new phase of mountain scenery. Just before emerging from the Notch, the hne passes under the brow of Mount Willard, which stands a stern sentinel at the head of the val- ley, and overlooks the whole. From the road at this point we may look back over the path by which we have come, and '^ gaze upon as grand a picture as the mind can well conceive. This view is identical with that from the summit of Mount Willard, already so celebrated; and because the prospect is nearer, enclosed with moun- tain cliffs on either side, and light and shade are seen with etter effect, gives more pleas- ure than that from the higher point. We look down into the basin-like valley with its sides sweeping upM'ard in graceful concaves ; cascade and water- fall tumble from the mountain side; and the Saco like a sil- vei thiead \^ eaves in and out aniom> tlio incks and through the green tex- ^ ture of over- hanging foli- age; while at our feet lie the waters of Dismal Pool, secluded and still as if sul- len 1 y r e 1 u c- tant to move into the sun- siLVER CASCADE. light beyond. Across the valley the sparkling waters of Silver Cascade are seen, a mere thread of silver. Down from the mountain top it springs near a thousand feet in' successive leaps, a rushing, boiling, foaming mass, till it joins the waters of the Saco below. 90 POPULAR KESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. Turning to the left, while yet under the shade of Mount Willard we reach the summit of our ascent, and, bursting through the narrow Gate of the Notch, are soon at the hospitable doors of the Crawford House. It is four miles from Crawford's to the Fab- yan House; and the rail- road, having l^assedthe source of the Saco in the pretty lake- let between the Gate of the No t c h and the ho- tel, follows the valley of the A m m o- voosiic Rive?' for the re- maining dis- tance. After leaving the Crawford, and before we reach the Fabyan, another grand view of the Mount AVashington Range is had, including the entire western slope from Clinton to Clay, and the summits of Washington and Jefferson, the highest elevations of New England. The completed portion of this division of the Portland and Ogdensburg Railroad terminates at the doors of the Fabyan House, where connection is made with the "Boston, Concord, and Montreal;" and with the Mount Washington Turnpike and Railway, foi- the ascent of Mount Washington ; but the road is located from this point through the pleas- ant towns of Carroll and Whitefield to the Connecticut River, passing within easy distance of Jefferson Hill, the favorite resort of Stan- King. From the Connecticut the line, already mostly built and in operation, will cross the splendid farming country of Northern Vermont to the head of Lake Champlain, with branches to Montreal and Burlington. There are many attractions near the Crawford House, besides those already named, that will command the attention of the tourist, — Gibbs Falls, Beecher's Cascades, Mount Willard, Willey House, Sylvan Glade, and many others. WHITE MOUNTAIN NOTCH, From the Crawford House. POPULAR KESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 91 For the lover of the wild and picturesque, the tourist will find ample opportunities to gratify his taste by a visit to Gibbs Falls, particularly if the stream is traced to its source at the base of the mountains. This locality was examined and the falls sketched by the writer in 1857, and named for the (then) proprietor of the Crawford House. Beecher's Falls have been popularized by the interest taken in them by their noted namesake. The •' Notch " is the great natural gateway to the White Mountains proper. Mounts Webster and Willard form its outstanding pillars. The scenery is grander than by any other approach. Nowhere can this be so well realized as from the summit of Mount Willard, which, with its admirable carriage-way, must always be one of the most popular resorts in this region. The " Gate of the Notch, " flanked by perpendicular ledges, is but twenty-four feet wide ; through which passes the carriage- road, and flow the waters of the Saco, which rises a short distance above. The Crairforf! House is also the starting-point of the only bridle-path to Mount Washington, which no person physically able should fail to visit. The path enters the foi-est at the house, through which it winds its way by a rough course to the summit of Mount Clinton; thence continuing by a rugged pathway over (or around) Mount Pleasant, Mount Franklin, Mount Monroe, to Mount Washington. The route follows the crest of the mountains, and affords a combination of the finest views in the region, — one of the grandest of which embraces that stupendous gulf, Tucker- man's Ravine, which falls sheer down a thousand feet. This not only forms one of the wildest retreats about the mountains, but it generally con- tains an individual feature of interest, the snow-ai'ch. During the winter months, the north-west winds completely fill this chasm with snow, which, packed by the driving storms of wind and sleet, by the warm rains of spring and the hot sun of summer, settles to a firm, compact mass. As the swollen streams pass beneath, the snow is melted. The massive bowl- ders which fill the valley become the base of so many ice-pillars, which remain and uphold the enormous snow-arch above. On the 12th of August, 1857, the writer entered this cavern to the distance of three hundred feet, and, by estimate, found the snow still twenty-five feet thick. It all passes away, however, by the last of August or the first of September. Tuckerman's Ravine can be visited from the Summit or from the Glen House. The bridle-path excursion, about nine miles, is frequently made by pe- destrians. But no one should attempt it without being well shod ; and the sudden accumulation of clouds and mists on the mountains renders an ex- perienced guide indispensable. The " Crawford " has always been noted for its admirable cuisine, and will be found withal one of the most desir- able houses at the mountains. It is also reached by the Boston, Concord, and Montreal Railroad, to the Fabyan House, and thence by Crawford House coach. 92 POPULAR KESOKTS, AND HOW TO KEACH THEM. PLEASURE ROUTE No. 6. Portland to the White Mountains, Lake Umbagog, and Rangeley Lakes, Montreal, Quebec, Thousand Islands, Niagara Falls, and the West. GRAND TRUNK RAILWAY. The Grand Trunk Railway connects in Portland with all roads run- ning east and west. The approach to the White Mountains from Port- land and the East by this line presents many points of individual interest. This is also a favorite route to Lake Umbagog, and the Rangeley Lakes ; and when properly understood, through description and illustrations, must prove an excursion of great popularity. In this connection a few of the more important objects of interest will be described ; although general illustrations must be deferred to a future edition. Leaving Portland, the line of the road soon enters the valley of the Androscoggin, up which it continues surrounded by the beautiful scenery for which this region is noted. Bethel, a fine summer resort of local fame, possesses the elements of popularity, and, when better known, will be sought for its many attractions. It has much the character of North Conway, and each year increases in popularity. Lake Umbagog is reached by stage twenty-six miles through scenes of various interests, and, like most of these inland sheets of water, the fish- ing is good. Rumford Falls in the hilly town of Rumford, Me., on the Andros- coggin River, for height, rugged grandeur, and picturesque beauty, have no superiors in New England. In three rapid and successive leaps the river makes a quick descent of over one hundred and fifty feet. The interest in the falls is greatly enhanced by the wildness of the surround- ings. Reached by the Grand Trunk Railroad to Bryant's Pond Station, and thence by stage. Near the station at Gorham, N.H. , are located several mountains of considerable fame. One of the first points of interest is Mount Hayes, one of the north-eastern spurs of the White Mountains, an elevation of twenty-five hundred feet. It rises from the eastern bank of the Andros- coggin River; and, before the Alpine House was destroyed by fire, a visit to this mountain was a popular excursion for its guests. A foot-path leads to the summit where is obtained a fine view of Mount Washington and neighboring peaks. POPULAB KESORTS, AND HOW TO KEACH THEM, 03 Mount Moriah, N.H., having an altitude of forty-seven hundred feet, rises from the valley of the Androscoggin, near Mount Hayes, north-east from the White Mountains proper. In a region where moun- tains were less common, this would be worthy of moi'e attention. A bridle- path once led to the summit ; but it is now neglected, and out of repair. Mount Surprise is another name for one portion of Mount Moriah. This mountain is generally visited for the fine view of Pinkham Notch which it affords. It has had less visitors since the destruction of the Alpine House, but it has always been one of the favorites with tourists to the mountains. It has a good bridle-path ; but, although saddle-horses can be always obtained, it is much visited on foot. The summit com- mands a very fine view of the Wliite Mountain group. It is reached from the Gorhani Station of the Grand Trunk Railroad. Visitors to the Glen House go by stage eight miles from Gorham Station ; from thence a carriage-road extends up Mount Washington. The Glen is oiie of the largest summer resorts in the White Moun- tain region. This fine establishment occupies a most picturesque loca- tion in the beautiful valley of the Peabody River, within a few rods of Monnt Washington Summit Carriage-Road (which is one of the best constructed roads in the country), connnanding a fine view, from base to summit, of Mounts Washington, Jefferson, Adams, and JNIadison, head of Tuckerman Ravine, and the Carter Range, — forming one of the finest panoramas to be obtained in the whole mountain region of Xew Hamp- shire. Other points of especial interest in the vicinity are Glen Ellis Falls, Crystal Cascade, &c. Berlin Falls, N. H. — Whoever shall have made the tour from Gor- ham to the Rangeley Lakes, and sailed across the charming Unibagog, where the wild Androscoggin gathers its head-waters preparatory for a race to the sea, and neglected to visit Berlin Falls, will have missed one of the most attractive features of that enjoyable excursion. Here, indeed, for the space of a mile, is one continuous rush and ioar of watei s. one wild, foaming cascade. AValls of adamantine rock crowd the Androscoggin into a narrow space through which it rushes, and in its mad career falling, tumbling, boiling among the rocks, a mass of glitter- ing spray. They are but a half-dozen miles distant from Gorham Station. Dixville Notch, Connecticut Lake, and Stratford Peaks, described in Pleasure Route No. 1, are also reached by this, which is also one of the principal thoroughfares to Montreal, Quebec, and the West. 94 POPULAit KESOBTS, AND HOW TO KEACH THEM. PLEASURE ROUTE No. 7. Portland to Lewiston, Parmington, Rangeley Lakes, Bath, Augusta, Moosehead Lake, Bangor, St. John, and the Provinces. MAINE CENTRAL RAILROAD. The Maine Central Railroad is a continuation of the Eastern, and connects in Portland with the Boston and Maine, Portland and Ogdens- burg, Portland and Rochester, and Grand Trunk Railroads, and Boston, Mount Desert, Machias, and Bangor boats. The Rangeley Lakes are perhaps, at this time, receiving more attention from tourists than any other section of Maine; not only from their individual attractions, but from their wild surroundings. The complete tour, with its boating and portage, possesses just enough adventure to give romance to the occasion. This remarkable chain of waters consists of several distinct lakes, connected by narrows and streams, yet forming one continuous water communication for a distance of over forty miles. Each has its individual name, but they are collect- ively known as "The Rangeley Lakes." There are, probably, few places in the country where trout-fishing can be more successfully enjoyed. They are generally reached by the Maine Central Railroad to Farmington, a place of growing popularity as a summer home, and thence thirty-six miles by stage. You will spend the night at Phillips, seventeen miles from Farmington, where excellent quarters will be found at the Barden House; and, rested and refreshed, the traveller will better enjoy the remainder of the journey. Indeed, so comfortable are the accommo- dations, so fine the surrounding scenery, and so excellent the speckled- trout fishing in the neighboring streams, that, in spite of itself, Phillips is growing rapidly to assume the character of a summer resort, in every thing save exorbitant prices. Many tourists arrange to spend several days or weeks here, for rest and recuperation. The proximity of Mounts Blue, Abraham, and Saddleback not only gives a pleasing variety to the landscape, but form objective points for short excursions. Mount Blue, Me., with an altitude of four thousand feet, is but a few miles away, and is famed for the wonderfully diversified views its sum- mit affords. The region is mountainous and picturesque, and is noted for the pure water of its streams, and for its invigorating atmosphere. Mount Blue is reached by the Maine Central Railroad to Farmington, thence by stage to Weld, fifteen miles, or Phillips, eighteen miles; usually the latter. POPULAR KESORTS, AND HOW TO KEACH THEM. 95 Saddleback Mountain iu altitude is but little lower than Mount Blue; but, although affording fine views, is not yet so favorably known. Go by stage from Farnungton to Madrid, or from Phillips direct. Damariscotta Lake, located in Lincoln County, is a resort just springing into existence. It is twelve miles long by three wide, at its greatest extremities; although its remarkable irregular shores give great changes in its apparent size. It is beautifully interspersed with islands; its coast is divided into sand and gravelly beaches, and rough rock- bound shores, frequently overhung and shaded by groves of leafy trees, which form delightful resorts for " picnic grounds." A summer hotel has just been erected, and a pleasure steamboat placed on the lake for the entertainment of guests. Reached by the Knox and Lincoln Rail- road, from the "Maine Central." Moosehead Lake is the largest and most important of the inland waters of Maine. It is thirty-five miles long, and varies from four to twelve miles in width. It is somewhat larger than Lake Winnepesaukee, but falls far behind it in notable characteristics and attractions. It is nearly surrounded by dense forests, and is much frequented by sports- men. Deer and moosj were formerly plenty, and are now occasionally met. The special amusement, however, is trout-fishing. Still-fishing is also good. Moosehead Lake is a resort of increasing attractions. Mount Kineo is a bold, rugged bluff, rising precipitously from the east shore of Moosehead Lake, beneath the shadow of which, on a pro- truding point of land, the Mount Kineo House is situated. This eleva- tion is easily ascended, and affords fine views of the lake. The village of Greenville, at the foot of the lake, is reached by several distinct routes. Take the JNIaine Central Railroad tq Skow^hegan, thence by stage fifty miles; or by stage from Dexter Station, on the same road; or by rail or steamer to Bangor, thence by the Bangor and Piscataquis Kail- road to Guilford, and from there by stage twenty-three miles to Green- ville, where the boats connect with ]\Iount Kineo. Lakes Chesuncook, twenty miles long by two wide, Caucom- gomuc, Caucomgomosis, and AUagash, are a chain of lakes on the head waters of the Penobscot River, beyond the lines of civiliza- tion, and only interesting to tourists as camping-out fields for sports- men. They are passed by canoes successively, from Moosehead Lake to Mattawamkeag or Old Town. A week's supply of provisions, with experienced guides, will be required. Mount Katahdiu can be visited en route. 96 POPULAR EESORTS, AXD HOW TO REACH THEM. Mount Katahdin, 5,385 feet high, is the most elevated mountain in Maine. Its altitude is but nine hundred feet below Mount Washiiir;- ton; yet it is seldom visited, and but little known to tourists. It rises from a dense primitive forest intersected by streams, ponds, and lakes. The region is without public highways and hotels, and lacks those home- like conveniences and accommodations necessary for a popular resort; yet it possesses the very elements desired by the angler and hunter, and is much frequented by sportsmen. Mount Katahdin is reached from Bangor to Mattawamkeag, fifty-eight miles, via European and Xorth- American Railway, thence by stage thirty- eight miles to Patten, the nearest public conveyance, from which place guides are necessary. THE EASTERN PROVINCES. From Bangor, the tourist bound to the Eastern Provinces — New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, and Prince Edward's Island — by rail makes his first stop in the city of St. John, where there are several fsir hotels, the best being the Victoria. Fredericton, the capital of New Brunswick, lies some distance above on the River St. John, and is a much cleaner and pleasanter place. From here tlie tourist can proceed to Shediac, and take the steamer for Summerside. Prince Edward's Island, a charming spot, from whence he can stage it tlirough a beau- tiful and romantic coiuitry to C'harlottetown, forty miles distant. Tlie only watering-place pi'oper of the island is a little village eighteen niiU'S distant, called Rustico. From C'harlottetown steamex's can be taken to Pictou, the centre of the coal i-egion. From there the distance to Hali- fax is made by rail, passing through Windsor and Truro, two imjiortant towns. Halifax is a quaint old city, with a few fine buildings and many dingy ones. It is an interesting place, however. Before leaving Pictou for Halifax, a visit to Sydney and the site of the ancient city of Louis- burg in Cape Breton would be time and money well sp?nt. On the return, the tourist would either go by the way of Truro, and thence to ^Nlonckton on the Intercolonial Line through the pleasant towns of Sackville, Amherst, and Dorchester; or, by taking the Annap- olis Railway at Windsor Junction, pass through the most delightful por- tion of the Province, south of the Basin of Minas, and tin-ough the Annapolis valley, the scene of Longfellow's pathetic poem of " Evan- geline." Here are the famous dike marshes extending uninterruptedly for ten or twelve miles, the remains of ancient orchards, and the stone chimneys of ancient habitations. From Annapolis the steamer can be taken to St. John; or stage can be taken for Yarmouth, a large and important town at the Southern extremity of the Province, from which port there is regular communication with Boston by steamer. POPULAR KESOKTS, AND HOW TO REACH THKM. 97 ILLUSTRATED PLEASURE ROUTE No. 8. Boston to New Port, R.I., Duxbury, Plymouth, Province- town, Hyannis, Woods Hole. Nantucket, Oak Bluffs, and the Goal Towns of South-Eastern Massachusetts. THE, OLD COLONY K.\ILKOAD. Who has ever examined the map of Eastern Massachusetts, with its long arm stretching out into the sea, — the land of the '"Pilgrim Fa- thers," — without feeling a desire to visit it ? From Boston to Navraganset Bay, the coast is filled with interesting localities, many of them identified with the early history of the country. The rockbound shores of Cohas- set are noted for their grand marine views ; the beautiful harbor of Plymouth is surrounded by scenes replete with historic memories ; the barren coast of Cape Cod is made interesting by the beautiful summer resorts which line its borders; the sail through Vineyard Sound, "the great high- way of commerce," to Newport, with Falmouth Heights and tho Elizabeth Islands on the right, and Martha'' s Vineijard wilh Oak Bluffs and Gaij Head on the left, is truly de- lightful, and cannot fail to please. To all these localities the Old Colony Railroad leads. Its branches and connecting lines of steamers unite all these prominent puints of in- terest with Boston and New York ; and its admirable construction and superior equipment render it one of the most popular summer routes in the countr3^ The original line extended from Boston to Plymouth thirty-seven and one-half miles, and from Fall River to Myricks, twelve miles. It now comprises a line of three hundred miles extending from Boston, the metropolis of New England, to Newport, R.I., and to all the principal cities, towns, and villages of South-eastern Massachusetts. A glance at the map shows the two routes between Boston and New- port : viz., Via Randolph, Stoughton, Easton, Taunton, Dighton, and Somerset; and via Brockton, Bridgewater, and Middleboro', which 98 POPULAR RESORTS, AJS^D HOW TO REACH THEM. unite near Fall River ; the line to Provincetown, the end of Cape Cod ; that to Woods Hole, the mainland terminus of the Vineyard and Nan- tucket steamers; the line to "Plymouth Rock," passing through the Abingtons, Plympton, and Kingston ; the Sea- Shore Line, through Quincy, Braintree, Weymouth, Hingham, Nantasket, Cohasset, the Scituates, Marshfield (the home of Webster), and South Duxbury, the American station of the " French Cable," to, and intersecting, the Plymouth Line at Kingston ; also the suburban Branches, " Shawmut," "Milton," and " Granite." BOAT-HOUSE LANDING, NEWPORT R. No more beautiful summer routes can be selected for a day trip from the metropolis, than from these shore lines. Notwithstanding this was the earliest settled portion of New England, considerable sections of it still exhibit a primitive wildness. The following are among the noted summer resorts reached by the Old Colony Railroad : — "Wollaston Heights, in the northerly portion of the old town of Quincy, is situated upon a beautiful eminence overlooking Boston Harbor and the surrounding country. Good hotel accommodations. Hingham. — This ancient town is a favorite resort for summer resi- dents, is situated but seventeen miles from Boston, upon the southerly shores of Boston Bay, has many agreeable attractions, both for the toui'ist and the temporary resident. POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 99 Nantasket Beach is rapidly rising into popularity, although more of a local than a general character. The beach is long, and just like all the sandy frills of our Atlantic coast. The surface is hard, and admir- ably adapted to driving or bathing. It is but eighteen miles from Boston. Eleven light-houses can be seen from the shore ; and it may well be pro- nounced one of the most delightful watering-places in the country. Sailing and fishing are without limit; and tens of thousands flock to enjoy the varied beauties of the scene, and the soothing temperature of the coast and sea air, daily, when the heated term is in full power. Cohasset, which was sliced from Hingham, is a glorious spot for all lovers of the moody sea. Here are cliffy rocks enough, with a broken sea-margin, to insure a turbulent ocean even in a comparative calm ; and, when old Neptune is in one of his fiery moods, the scenery around the shores of Cohasset rises to a degree of sublimity and grandeur that surpasses description. The wild, picturesque beauties of Cohasset rocks form an admirable subject for the artist's pencil ; and here the lover of the beauties of nature delights to linger. Marshfield, the home of Webster, will also attract attention. Duxburyis thirty-nine miles from Boston. A walk to Captain's Hill, where a monument is being erected to the memory of Miles Standish, forms a pleasant objective point. Plymouth. — Although the road to Plymouth passes through several thriving and interesting villages, the chief object of the tourist will be a visit to Plymouth itself, — a visit which cannot fail to interest him; and fortunately for his enjoyment, whether his sojourn is for a day or a week, he will find, at the Samoset and Clifford Houses, accommodations which will render his stay agreeable. Plymouth has a world-wide fame. If the orations delivered in honor of "The Pilgrim Fathers" were all printed in one book, it would make a volume fearful to encounter ; for those famous " Pilgrims " landed there, as is generally known. Plymouth is a wholesome, steady, well-to-do town, with nothing remarkable about it except its historic notoriety. And yet the pleasure-seeker can find enough here to busy his hands. There is fair shooting at "the Point," some nine miles down the harbor; and sea and pond fishing are abundant. But the harbor is not good for commerce ; and the place will depend chiefly upon the direction in which its capital is utilized. At one period Plymouth was of considerable maritime importance. It is but thirty- seven miles from Boston, and is reached in a little more than an hour's ride. The town is well laid out, and pleasantly located, on ground sloping to the water. Burial Hill, above, commands a fine view of the harbor. Pilgrim Hall, with its many curious relics; Plymouth Rock, Cole's Hill, and Clark's Island (where the Pilgrims "rested on Sunday, Dec. 10, 100 POI'ULAK RESOKTS, AND HOW TO KEACH THEM. 1620," before landing at Plymouth on the 20th), are all interesting places to visit. The vicinity of Plymouth, with its fresh-water lakes and fine drives, also presents objects of interest. Scituate is really a very pleasant place, and has many agreeable attractions both for the tourist and the temporary resident. The Cape Cod Division of the Old Colony Railroad extends to Prov- incetown, the extreme point of Cape Cod, one hundred and twenty miles distant from Boston. The fine harbor at Provincetown presents a refuge for the storm-driven mariner. The place is inhabited largely by sea- faring men ; and its thrifty appearance is a fine illustration of what an enterprising community can drag from the sea. It is built on and sur- rounded by sand-hills ; and the earth of its gardens, so green and beauti- ful, is mostly brought from the mainland. Branches lead from this road, from Cohasset Narrows to Woods Hole, and from Yarmouth to Hyannis, which was the terminus of the road before it was extended to Province- town. Hyannis is a pleasant village, and, next to Provincetown, the largest place on the Cape. It is prettily laid out, and ornamented by shade-trees. The inhabitants are engaged in a sea-faring life; and many retired sea-captains and merchants have made this their home. The rail- road leads through the village a mile to the sea, where a fine wharf has been constructed. A growing seaside village, a short distance to the west, overlooks the harbor to Vineyard Sound and Martha's Vineyard beyond. A land company has erected a new hotel, for the accommoda- tion of summer guests; and many fine cottages have already been built, and others are in course of construction. The serrated coast from Hyan- nis to Woods Hole is alternated with fine beaches, summer resorts, and wild lands, where the sportsman and fisherman delight to roam. l'OrMtI,AK UKSOHTS, AND HOW TO IlKACH TUKM. 101 The name of "Cape Cod" is synonymous in most jninds with sand, sea, and codfish. For tlie delicate and sensitive devotees of fashion these words have no charm ; but, for the more hardy seekers for novelty and pleasure, they indicate shooting, fishing, and pure air. The charac- teristics of Cape Cod, although having a likeness to the whole coast family of attractions, are, after all, peculiar to itself. It is not an island ; and yet it is as really in the arms of the Atlantic as though it were alone in its waters. To be on the shores of " Cape Cod " is to have the alternating humors of the ocean, as much as though it were Nantucket. Of course, Cape Cod is not a town nor a city nor an island ; for it is " Cape Cod," and embraces towns, villages, islands, beaches, headlands, rocks, reefs, sand, salt, plover, ducks, coots, and codfish. It is of varied pleas- ures, found in numerous and peculiar places. ^•■'^ TROUT POND. There is Cotuit Port, for example, nestled on high land, and in a charming location,, almost romantic. It is also the rural home of many families of taste. Few summer resorts surpass it. It is reached by the Old Colony Railroad and connecting stages. Falmouth Heights, a rising place, with rare attractions, now in l)rocess of development by a company of capitalists. It is a delightful location, and commands a fine view of Vineyard Sound. The prospect opens to the south; the ground is high, falling gently from a wooded crest to the bluff, which drops thirty feet to the beach below. Serpentine walks and drives permeate the groves of oak, in which cottages are pleas- antly placed. A grand ocean avenue leads for miles along bluff and through the groves to the point of starting. A commodious hotel is open 102 POPULAB BESORTS, AND HOW TO BEACH THEM. to guests in summer. The railroad which leads to Falmouth Heights and Woods Hole branches from the main road at Cohasset Narrows. This locality abounds in fine landscape and marine views; and summer resi- dences will soon dot the scene. Woods Hole is a picturesque hamlet of a hundred buildings, located on a promontory, on the extreme southern point of the peninsula which forms Barnstable County. The harbor is small, but affords good anchor- age, and is well protected by outlying headlands and islands. This is the terminus of the road in this direction, and is the nearest point of railroad connection to Martha's Vineyard. town in the Commonwealth. Thirty miles out at sea is a tufted sand-bank fifteen miles long : on it is the quaint- est and most old-fashioned The zeal and energy of its hardy seamen, POPULAR RKSORTS, AND HOW TO REAOH THEM. 103 who pursued the whale in its arctic home, made Nantucket in earlier times familiar to the British Parliament. Nantucket is now coming to the front as a watering-place. The facilities for the rugged sports of the seaside which it otters, its bracing and genial air, the many attractions that surround it, the absence of fogs, and the home amusements presented, the easy sail of two hours, — all commend Nantucket to parties in search of out-door excitement and healthy recreation. The town is specially commended to invalids who seek quiet and repose. Visitors can take their breakfast at the White Mountains, and sleep in Nantucket; men of business can reach New York or the White Mountains as easily as from Boston. The connections are swift and sure for travel east, west, north, or south. The town is peculiar for its quaint customs. Lectures, meetings, and arrivals are announced as of old by the bellman. Carts take the place of coaches, in which passengers stand. Young ladies invite their friends to a ride, back up a one-horse cart to the door, mount by means of a chair, and drive off with as much sang-froid as a fashionable city lady would enter the park in her phaeton. Nantucket is full of surprises, and has many attractions. Its hotels and boarding-houses are ample : its athenseum, library, marine curiosi- ties, its ancient houses of 1686, and the residence of the last of the In- dians, are full of historic interest. Oak Bluffs as a summer resort is an immense success, and its magical growth has fairly earned for it the appellation of the Cottage City of America. The sail from Woods Hole in the elegant steamers that ply between that place and the Vineyard and Nantucket, in connection with the Old Colony Railroad, is simply delightful. Buzzard's Bay is studded with beauty and with places of rare interest. The entire fleet plying between New York and the coast passes in view of the prominent hotels, often bringing into view a thousand sail. This city of cottages has concrete drives, horse-railroads, a trotting- course, and all modern improvements. The great ' ' Vineyard Camp- Meeting Association " holds its annual gatherings in the beautiful ' ' Wes- leyan Grove," adjacent to the place. Fully fifteen thousand visitors have been upon the island at one time. Hotels and boarding-places are num- bered by scores. A narrow-gauge steam-railroad connects Oak Bluffs with Edgartown, and with Katama, the beautiful new watering-resort, about nine miles southerly from the Bluffs. Katama is situated upon the magnificent bay of the same name, has a fine hotel, and delightfiil still-water and surf bathing, and attracts many visitors. The direct route to the Vineyard is via the "Old Colony Line." Taking the cars at Boston, an hour is saved over any other route, and all sea-sickness is avoided. 104 POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOAV TO REACH THEM. Newport, R. I., is now the fashionable queen of all American watering resorts, for summer pleasure. With comparatively little of striking or romantic scenexy, it has attractions peculiarly its own. Wealth and social distinction having approved of this really delightful location, the summer gatherings are of the gayest and most brilliant description. In elegance and splendor of outfit ; in fame and beauty of its throngs ; in all that invites the curious, the seekers after pleasure, the invalid's repose, and the glare and extravagance of fashion, — Newport is unri- valled. Indeed, this ancient and once renowned seat of commerce, after sinking into semi-oblivion, has been Rip- Van-Winkled into fame again, and is now in the bloom of a vigorous summer life, though still inclined to its winter drowse. The location of Fort Adams at Newport also adds to the attractiveness of the place. NEWPORT, R.I. Old Colony Steamboat Company's Docks. From the south, Newport is reached by the Sound Steamers of the Old Colony Steamboat Company, "Fall River Line;" and from Boston by the '-Old Colony" Road. Steamers also leave Providence for that city, stopping at all the leading places of interest along the shores of Narra- ganset Bay. Perhaps in no particular has greater improvement been made in the last few years, than in the taste displayed in the construction of steam- boats and railway cars, thus greatly lessening the fatigue and annoy- ance of" travel. A journey may now be made without losing for a day the comforts of home. Cars and boats furnished with elegant parlors, inviting saloons, and luxuriant state-rooms, are now found on all the lirincipal routes in America. POPULAR RESOUTS, AND HOW TO KKACH THEM. 105 OLD COLONY STEAMBOAT COMPANY, "KALI. KIVKR LINE," Betiraen New York and Bo.sldii, rid Neirpnrt nnil Fall llwer. The Old Colony Steamboat Company may well be said to occupy the front rank in this improvement ; and its boats have no superiors in the world. Flying between the metropolis of the nation and the most fashionable watering-place on the continent, their saloons are constantly patronized by the elite of society. Every afternoon long lines of carriages deposit their passengers at the company's wharf, Pier 28 (foot of Murray Street) North River, New York City; and at 5 p.m. in summer, and 4 p.m. in winter, the signal gun announces the hour of departure, and these magnificent float- ing palaces, crowded with human freight, glide into the stream. Martial music, by Hall's Boston Brass Band, enlivens the scene, as the gayly- dressed steamer majestically threads her way through the noble harbor, made rich in panoramic scenes by the marine of all nations. The twi- light deepens as the stately vessel enters the East River, on her way to the placid waters of Long Island Sound. The scenery becomes beauti- fied by the enchanting villas that line the shores, the homes of wealth and beauty ; and nought is heard but the exclamations of delight from the assembled throng, the merry laugh of the promenaders, and the intoxi- cating strains of the reed and string music which have replaced the brass band. Thus into the night glides this living freight, — faith, comfort, and contentment resting iii the minds of all. The fleet of steamers formerly owned by the Narragansett Steamship Company (now by the "Old Colony") comprises the "Bristol," "Provi- dence," "Old Colony," "Newport," all of which are well known to the travelling public. If we had not been warned by the march of improvement in the past, we should be tempted to believe that steamboat building has reached its climax in the superb vessels "Bristol " and "Providence." On crossing the gang-plank the visitor finds himself on a broad deck, surroimded by richly carved and gilded panelling. The deck itself is composed of alternate strips of yellow pine and black walnut. In extreme width, this main deck measures eighty-four feet. Surrounding that portion of it which we enter from the wharf are the various offices for tickets, luggage, &c. Large doors in the after bulkhead lead to the ladies' saloons and state-rooms, which are appropi-iately divided for the use of ladies travelling alone, and for families with children, the most complete accommodations being provided for all. The main deck is divided into two general divisions by sliding glass doors. The forward part is used for freight; and the after part, which lias just been described, is devoted to the use of passengers. From this after part, stairways lead 106 POPULAK KESOBTS, AND HOW TO liKACH THEM. to the upper and lower saloons. These stairs, with their highly-polished brass steps and their carved and graceful mahogany balusters, are sep- arated from the open deck by a semicircular partition of woodwork and glass, which prevents the too strong draughts which a head wind some- times occasions. Entering this semicircular enclosure, we descend to the lower saloon and supper-room. Here, in long perspective, tables, glit- tering with cut-glass and silver, stretch away toward the stern of the boat. Just forward of the stairway are the china-closet and kitchen, where all the culinary operations required on the boat are performed, and whose neat array of shining cooking utensils would delight the heart of the most fastidious housekeeper. MAIN SALOON Of the world-renowned Steanners " Bristol " and Leaving the appetizing scenes of the kitchen and supper-room, we ascend two broad and easy flights of stairs to the main saloon, which runs fore and aft neai'ly the whole length of the boat, with rows of state- rooms on each side, and. in fact, overhead, — for there is yet another stair- way, and another tier of state-rooms above us. The eight rooms which occupy the after part of the main saloon are for the accommodation of those who desire more luxurious surroundings than are sought by the public at large. These rooms far excel in elegance those of any first class hotel, and in size they are at least equal to the ordinary rooms of seaside houses. The other state-rooms, numbering in all three hundred, are large and well ventilated. They possess the peculiarity of having, in place of the ordinary fixed bunks, a kind of two-storied black walnut bedstead, which, being detached from the light woodwork, is compara- tively free from the vibration commonly perceived when a steamboat is POPULAR BESOKTS, AND HOW TO KEACII THEM. 107 under way. Besides this provision against vibration, it will be observed that the partitions between the rooms are built diagonally ; so that, instead of working with every revolution of the wheels, they form, in the aggregate, a powerful set of braces, adding much to the strength of the superstructure. The state-rooms of the upper tier are entered from broad galleries, which run around the saloon. These galleries unite at either end, and form spacious landings, on wliich are tables and chairs similar to those in the saloon ; and the boats are lighted by gas. STEAMER BRISTOL Passing proposed Bridge between New York and Brooklyn. Tukitn hi/ permUfsion/voiii lyaircn'^ (iLngrapliii, iiiMhheil by Cowiierlhivnil !f Co., /'/lila'/iljihia. At 5.30, P.M., daily (Sundays, during the summer at G.30), passengers for New York leave Boston, from the depot of the Old Colony Railroad, con- necting with steamer at Fall River, leaving there at 7.15, p.m. ; and at 8.45 in the evening the boat leaves Newport, arriving in New York in season to connect with all through trains South and West. Passengers from New York, the West, or South, for any of the above places, can pui-chase tickets and have their baggage checked to destina- tion ; and by branch roads will be taken direct to any of the delightful resorts to which it leads, without the necessity of going to Boston. 108 POPULAR KESOKTS, AND HOW TO BEACH THEM. PLEASURE ROUTE No. 9. EXCURSION TO OAK BLUFFS AND KATAMA BAY. The coast of New England abounds in beautiful harbors, charming bays, and quiet inlets, many of which are unknown to the public for want of means of communication. But the popular and increasing custom of spending the summer months at the sea-shore every year causes the development of new and delightful resorts, — localities whose quiet beauty frequently proves a surprise to the travelling public. Yet it has so often happened that a long time intervenes before such accom- modations are prepared, that tourists have hesitation in visiting any but the beaten tracks of travel. Very fortunately, however, this difficulty is being largely obviated by the action of business men, who, with a quick eye for the beautiful, and sharp discernment for the wants of the public, do not hesitate, on discovering a desirable locality, to announce it with STEAMBOAT "MARTHAS VINEYARD" PASSING OAK BLUFFS. hotel accommodations complete. Such is the case at Katama Bay, where the first building erected was a large and commodious hotel. The name of " Katama " is not a familiar one ; and many will read it now for the first time. If such, howevei", will look at the map of Mas- sachusetts, they will see off the eastern shore of ISIartha's Vineyard a bay or channel separating it from Chappaquiddick Island, which forms the point. This beautiful sheet of water is but eight miles south-east from Oak Bluffs, now so extensively known as a summer resort. POIM'LAK KKSOKTS, AND HOW TO HEACH TltKM. 109 Tourists by rail to New Bedford connect witli the fine side-wheel boats " Martha's Vineyard " and " Monohansett," of the Martha's Vineyard Line of steamers, for Oak Bluflfs and Katama. The excursion from New Bedford is one of the pleasantest on the coast. We have a fine view of Fairhaven as we sail down the harbor. This town is pleasantly located ; and a number of beautiful private resi- dences, half hidden by foliage, overlook the water. An old fort stands upon a rocky promontory at the east entrance of the harbor, opposite to which, upOn an island, is the light-house. At this point we enter Buz- zard's Bay, and cross directly to " Woods Hole," a dozen miles away. Buzzard's Bay and Vineyard Sound are so protected by headlands and outlying islands, that the sail is delightful. ^Vhile the coast turns back to the left, after passing the fort, on the right the main-hmd pushes out into the sea, forming a cape, on which Clark's TPoint Light-house stands, and Fort Tabor occupies a commanding position. From this the bay opens to the right; and the main-land stretches away in the distance to a marked promontory known as " Round Hill." "Dumpling" or Round Hill Light stands on an isolated rock off this point, beyond which is the main entrance to Buzzard's Bay. The Elizabeth Islands are on the opposite side of the channel. These are individually known by their Indian names, commencing with the westernmost, as Cuttyhimk, Penni- keese, Neshawana, Peskeneese, Naushon, Nonnamensett, and to com- plete the rhyme, mariners have added, Woods Hole, Quequonkesset. Turning to the left, the main-land, extending towards Cape Cod, can be seen in the blue distance, with Black Rock, a dangerous shoal, lying be- tween. As we approach Woods Hole, the island of Naushon stretches six or seven miles away to our right. This is the property of Capt. John AL Forbes of Boston. His summer residence, and that of his son, form conspicuous features in the landscape. An extensive grove of beech and oak has been stocked with deer, where his friends are annually en- tertained with a genuine deer-hunt. The entrance to AVoods Hole is narrow and tortuous, with sunken rocks on either side, requiring great nautical skill in its passage. The harbor is small, but deep, and well protected. A hundred houses, perched upon the surrounding hills, many of them quite beautiful, com- prise the town ; the depot of the Old Colony Railroad being the most conspicuous feature. Visitors to Katama or Oak Bluffs who prefer to go to this place by rail can take the cars at the Old Colony Depot, Boston, and continue from here by boat. The light-house, with its beacon light, stands on a headland at the mouth of the harbor, and marks the entrance to Vineyard Sound. The sail across the sound is delightful. Martha's Vineyard lies directly before you. Gay Head Light is seen far away to the right, while Falmouth Heights are on the left. 110 POPULAiJ RESOBTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. VINP:YARD HAVEN. This town, formerly called Holmes' Hole, is approached between two headlands, known as the " East " and " West Chop." Its harbor is indeed a haven for the storm-driven mariner; and hundreds of sail frequently lay here for days awaiting a favorable wind. ' The village of Vineyard Haven rests upon a hillside, slojiuig gently to the water. The town is old: several churches, a few newly ei-ected residences, and an old wind-mill whose arm s point to the past, form the con- spicuous fea- tures in the land- scape. By the formation of a natural dike across the south- ern portion of the harbor, a small lake, three miles long, has been separated from it, known as Lagoon Pond, which is noted for its fine oysters of artificial culture. A carriage-drive along this dike extends, via Oak Bluffs, to Katama. As we leave Vineyard Haven, and the steamer rounds the "East Chop," we approach the locality of summer life for citizens from our large towns. Cottages and villas are scattered over the hillsides, which increase in number and beauty until w,e reach Oak Bluffs, where we have a rui-al city spread out before us, from which, standing in bold re- lief, rises a colossal structure surrounded by broad verandas, and sur- mounted by towering cupolas, — The Sea View House, — with the steamboat-landing directly in front. The " Sea View"' is the prominent feature of the town, which lies beyond. On either side, overlooking the water, and extending for thou- sands of feet, is a broad plank promenade, with seats the entire length. RIDING OUT THE STORM. POPULAR KESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. HI At the right is a building one thousand feet long by eighteen feet wide, built into the bluff, protected by a heavy bulkhead. This is used for amusements. The side is of glass, and opens to the sea. In front is a broad promenade, provided with seats. The roof is flat, covered with concrete, and is also used for a walk, over which pavilions are placed at intervals, the whole overlooked by beautiful cottages. At the left of the hotel are hundreds of bathing-houses, with pavilions and seats for spec- tators. Steamboats and yachts crowd the landing, while the wharves, the verandas, the balconies and bluffs, are filled with the life and gayety of the scene. Over sixty-nine thousand guests visited this' renowned resort during the season of 1 874. SEA VIEW HOUSE. Oak Bluffs, Martha's Vineyard. If the boat remains at the landing long enough to allow it, a visit to the " Sea View " will amply repay the trouble. From the wharf, the entrance is made through an ornamental gate-house, which is devoted to offices. In the tower at the right is the baggage-room, with a general railway ticket-office over it. At the left is the wharfinger's office, over which is the office of the Oak Bluffs Company. The basement of the hotel is approached by a private entrance from the wharf, by which the baggage and stores are taken, and, by the steam elevator, raised to any part of the house. Wide passage-ways extend through the basement, cutting each other at right angles. At the left of the entrance, opening to the sea, are the barber's shop, bath-rooms, and billiard-hall, beyond which is the engineer's 112 POPULAK RESORTS, AND HOW TO KKACH THKM. and boiler room. &c. On the right are store-rooms, ice-house, chill-room, laundry, bakery, and servants' rooms. The house and promenades are lighted by Walworth's solar gas generator, with gas manufactured in an xmderground building, distant from the hotel. The Sea View House is approached by a broad flight of steps, leading to a capacious veranda at the east end, twentj'-six feet in width. This is an important architectural feature of the house. It is three stories high, giving beauty to the structure, and comfort and pleasure to the guests. It commands a full view of Vineyard Sound, the great "high- way of commerce." Ninety -five thousand vessels are reported to have passed Gay Head Light in 1872. The ladies' reception-room is at the right of the entrance, with hat and coat and wash rooms, and stairway beyond. On the left is the gentlemen's reception-room, elevator, and office. Opposite the main entrance, the doors open to the dining-hall, which occupies the entire width of the building, with long windows open- ing to wide verandas on either side. The private dining-rooms are beyond. Broad stairways and the elevator lead to the stories above. The public parlor, on the second floor, is pleasantly located across the southern end of the building, commanding, from its windows and bal- conies, an extended view in three directions. On either side of the pas- sage are private parlors and sleeping-rooms ; and the two stoi'ies above are similarly arranged, with walks the entire length, affording excellent ventilation. Balconies lead from every story. A tank of two thousand gallons capacity,- placed under the roof, supplies the water for the house. The peak of the south tower has three fine sleeping-rooms. The north tower has two, with a passage-way leading to the lookout-room above, from the four windows of which a most extensive marine and landscape view can be had. The chapel is a beautiful structure, of ornamental design, and seats eight hundred and twenty-two persons. It stands on a rounded knoll, surrounded by a grove of oak. It is octagonal in form, Avith four doors, leading from opposite angles, and a gallery entrance on the side, in front of which stands the pulpit, with ante-rooms on either side. The seats on the floor and in the gallery occupy seven sections of an octagon, facing to a common centre. The inside is not plastered ; but the painted tri- colored walls and ceiling, relieved by the ornamented framework, produce a singular and beautiful effect. The building is not confined to any pai'ticular denomination ; bxat any stockholder can secure the pulpit for a friend on any unengaged day. The free and harmonious use of a building so beautiful lends a charm to the exercises, and, furnishing as it does a regular place of worship, contributes largely to the popularity of the place. POPULAK RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 113 Circuit Avenue commences at the wharf, and extends through and around the town. It has a jjaved drive-way, with concrete sidewalks. Other important streets are paved with concrete. The town is emphati- cally a Cottage City. Within an area of one mile stand six hundred and ninety-one cottages. Among the hundreds of beautiful houses, of exquisite architecture, scarcely two can be found alike. SEASIDE COTTAGE OF HON CARPENTER. Oak Bluffs is a delightful place, frequented by persons of culture and taste, which can only be partially described in this article, but will well repay a visit from the pleasure-seeker, Katama, on the eastern point of the island, is now attracting attention. The scenery at Katama was so beautiful, the fishing and shooting so imusually fine, that in 1872 a few gentlemen of means determined to erect a hotel there, and secure a building site for others who, like them- selves, should be desirous of leaving the heated streets of a town for a quiet cottage life by the seaside. The result was beyond the expecta- tions of the most sanguine ; and forty-three persons came forward the first season, and secured lots, with the agreement to build cottages on them. The place has been artistically surveyed by a landscape-gardener, streets and avenues graded, and parks laid out. Summer residences are being built; and a town is springing uj) as if by magic. 114 POPULAB RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. Several of the managers of this enterprise are the same who made Oak Bluffs a success ; the same whose lots, placed in the market five years ago at 1100 each, have since sold for $1,600 ; the same who, in six years, from a single house, have built " The Cottage City of America," with paved and gas-lit streets, — in a word, a complete town, clothed with taste, comfort, and picturesque beauty. And now the same energy and perseverance which succeeded at Oak Bluffs promise success at Katama. It is a short but pleasant sail across the bay from Oak Bluffs to the village of Edgartown, the spires of which can be seen in the south-east. This place was once a town of some enterprise ; but, with the decline of the whale fishery, the young men have generally sought employment else- where. From Edgartown we enter Katama Bay, a beautiful sheet of water, some five miles long. It is of itself an excellent harbor, affording not only good anchorage, but is well protected from the winds, making it a favorable resort for yachting and fishing chilis. On entering the bay, " Mattakeset Lodge," the model hotel of Kr.;.' ma, becomes the absorb- ing object of attention. MATTAKESET LODGE. Katama, Martha's Vineyard. The house stands on a commanding bluff, at the opposite end of the harbor, its symmetrical towers cutting boldly against the southern sky. As you near the landing, immediately below the hotel, its peculiar structure and singular location become apparent. The surface at Katama is an extended table-land, broken by gentle undulations, but at the coast falling abruptly to the beach below. In a single instance, by some natural agency, a pathway has been grooved through the bluff to POPULAB EESOKTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 115 the water's edge, forming an admirable passage, of easy grade, from the beach to the plain above. Here a wharf has been built; and on the blutf, spanning the ravine, stands the hotel, under which the drive-way passes to the town beyond. "Mattakeset Lodge" has been constructed to afford the mnximum amount of comfort and pleasure. Numerous balconies and broad veran- das, commanding a complete view of the landing and harbor beyond, surround the house ; but the peculiar and favorite feature is an open gal- lery, which occupies the entire upper story. In the evening this is bril- liantly lighted by gas, and is entirely devoted to promenading and dancing. YACHTING. It is, indeed, a novel feature. Here, in the hottest summer's day, a cool- ing breeze is always felt, and the roar of the breakers on the south side of the island, scarcely a mile away, fills the air. The whitened foam, as the waves dash upon the beaches, which stretch away like a ribbon in the distance, is always an interesting object of contemplation. From this elevation, high above the surrounding water, securely shielded from the sun's scoi'ching rays, hundx-eds of whitened sail can be seen. The admirable facilities for yachting, and the abundance of fish and birds in this vicinity, have induced the proprietors to make special ar- rangements for the convenience of sportsmen ; while others, whose taste 1 116 POPUIiAK RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. for these amusements commences after the game has passed the culinary department, will have reason to be equally well pleased. Fishing parties from Oak Bluffs have come to be daily affairs. Few localities on the coast possess better facilities for fishing than Katama, — deep-sea fishing off Cape Pogue for cod, haddock, hake, whit- ing, pollock, and halibut ; exciting sport in sailing or trolling for blue fish, striped bass, and Spanish mackerel ; still fishing in the bay, within a gun-shot of the house, for scup, tautog, sea-bass, and sea-perch. But the sport in which Katama leads is in the serving of her unrivalled Clam-hakes ; and, for the convenience of guests, a grand pavilion has been erected for their shelter. THE MIGHTY CLAM-BAKE. Tradition gives color to the claim, that the great genius of Mattakeset, the famous and powerful Indian chief of the primitive days, devised the art of preparing the delicious and now world-renowned " clam-bake." Charles Lamb relates the remarkable way in which "roast pig" was re- vealed to the "heathen Chinee." Doubtless the claim set up for Mat- takeset is quite as authentic as Lamb's bit of tradition ; but it is not as full in particulars. Clams of the very finest variety abound in the region around Mattakeset Lodge; and the formula for composing and compounding a clam-bake, in the style of a fine art, is naturally found here. For general satisfaction, we now describe the process : — First, a huge saucer-like space is dug in the sand or ground, and is well paved over with stones. This may be called the bake-oven. To prepare the grand bake, the " oven *' is filled with fuel, intermingled with goodly sized stones. This is fired (the combustible part) : and after the stone portions are all thoroughly heated the coals are raked off. .The " oven " is now ready. First, a layer of rock-weed is equally spread over the heated surface; next, from fifteen to twenty-five bushels of clams are thrown in, and then covered with another layer of rock- weed ; and over that sea-weed is thickly placed. The heat of the oven is sufficient to raise a great cloud of steam from the water of the clams and the weeds ; and in about half an hour, the capacious mound of savory bivalves is ready to be borne to the feast-board. Here, drawn but- ter, salt, pepper, and vinegar, or any of the more pungent relishes of the table, served in convenient dishes, are used to add zest to this notable and popular food. The instruments used to dislodge the clam from the shell, decapitate it, and submit it to the teeth, are simply fingers. Ex- perts at this kind of feed are wonderfully dexterous in the work, and raise huge piles of shells around them in brief time. This is a clam- bake simple. But, to have a compound bake of appetizing temptations POPULAR BESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 117 most excelling, as frequently served by mine host of "Mattakeset Lodge," lobsters, green corn, fresh fish, chickens, &c., are to be placed among the clams at the outset. With these additions, the rudely improvised feast becomes one not to be sui'passed for lusciousness by the skill of a regiment of French cooks. In the opinion of many, the transcendent glory of Mattakeset Lodge lies in its unrivalled clam- bakes. COMMUNICATIONS. Katama possesses admirable facilities for communication by steamers, and the sail is delightful. A new and beautiful steam-yacht, of un- rivalled speed, connects with steamers from Woods Hole and New Bedford, at Oak Bluffs ; or you can go by rail, a new and elegantly equipped narrow-gauge road having been built from Oak Bluffs to Katama. And the citizens of Edgartown, alive to the requirements of the public, have laid out and constructed a splendid drive-way of twelve miles, extending from Katama to Vineyard Haven, via Edgai-town and Oak Bluffs. Steamers will run daily. In a word, every thing which experience can dictate is being done to make this a popular summer resort, and a pleasant seaside retreat. THE SEA-VIEW BOULEVARD. Tins fine drive-way, commencing at Katama, extends twelve miles along the coast to Vineyard Haven. It has been constructed by the citizens of Edgartown, to meet the increasing wants of visitors. From Katama to Edgartown it continues along the table-land to and through the village. A couple of miles beyond, it leads down to the sea, approaching it between two smaller bodies of water, which lay contiguous to and parallel with 118 POPULAE RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. the ocean. That upon the right, and nearer Edgartown, is known as Crys- tal Lake, — a beautiful pond, one mile in diameter. On the left we pass the foot of San-cha-can-tack-et Lake, which for miles is only separated from the sea on our right by a natural dike, evidently thrown up by some mighty convulsion, or by the action of the waves, beyond the present history of this region. The road-way has been built along this dike, which in places is so narrow that a stone could be tossed into the water on either side. This is a delightful drive ; and, although of recent con- struction, it has attained a great popularity, affording as it does, to j^ersons having objections to boating, the rare opportunity of securing an equally refreshing sea-breeze while riding in a carriage. Nor is this all. Midway between Edgartown and Oak Bluffs the dike has been cut, by the action of the waters, through which, with the tide, the current ebbs and flows. This channel has been spanned by a bridge four hundred and fifty feet long, affording a rare opportunity for fishing ; not merely small, worth- less varieties, but blue-fish, bass, flounders, and others of large size, are taken in abundance. This was only needed to secure for ladies and chil- dren, or persons averse to boating, the full advantages of tlie exhilarating sport of fishing, shorn of the disagreeable annoyances of sea-sickness. The Sea- View House, at Oak Bluffs, is but three miles distant, and in full view from the bridge, which is one of its most favorite resorts. Indeed, the Sea- View Boulevard is one of the inost enjoyable features of this popular watering-place. San-cha-can-tack-et Lake is three miles long, and from one to two wide, and is a favorite boating and sailing locality. Cultivated farms rise to a wooded crest on the opposite shores. The drive from the bridge to Oak Bluffs is along an undulating sur- face, which will soon undoubtedly be filled witji cottages. It affords a fine variety of landscape views, with occasional glimpses of the town beyond, — the Sea- View House always forming the most imposing fea- ture. Island Lake nestles quietly by the wayside, with a miniature island set like an emerald iu its centre. STRANGERS IN BOSTON. Boston is well supplied with hotels, and, like every city, with cheap and expensive ones ; but the Crawford House, which is under the same management as Mattakeset Lodge, will be found one of the most desirable for strangers. It is centrally located, in ScoUay's Square, from which point all the city and Metropolitan horse-cars start. It is con- venient to all the depots, and is a first-class house in every respect. It is kept on the European plan, with rooms from ^1 to |4 per day ; and with four dining-halls the proprietor is able to satisfy his guests in style or price. I have no doubt strangers will find this a desirable home while in Boston and vicinity. POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 119 PLEASURE ROUTE No. 10. New York, Boston, and Vicinity to the Mountains and Springs of Vermont, Lake Champlain, Montreal, and Quebec, Thousand Islands, &c. CEXTRAL VERMONT RAILROAD. The southern termini of the great system of railroads known as the " Central Vermont " are Miller's Falls, Mass., where connection is made with the New London Northern Railroad ; also at Chatham Fom* Corners, N.Y., connecting with the Harlem, Boston and Albany, and Hudson Railroads. It is approached from Boston and the east via Boston, Lowell, and Nashua, Concord, and Northern Railroads to White River Junction ; and by the Fitchburg and Cheshire Railroads to Bel- lows Falls, and by the Boston and Albany Railroad to Chatham Four Corners. From these several termini the various routes and branches permeate the entire State of Vermont, reaching into New York and the Province of Quebec. At St. Johns, Canada, the noi-thern terminus, twenty-two miles from Montreal, connection is made with the " Grand Trunk," and again at Ogdensburg, N.Y., the western terminus. At this point also the St. Lawrence and Lake steamers touch. A description of the route from Boston to White River Jimction will be found in Illustrated Pleasure Route No. 1, as far as Concord, N.H., where the Northern Railroad commences. The first noted point of interest beyond Concord is Newfound Lake, located about two miles north from the quiet and sequestered village of Bristol, N.H., on a branch of the Northern Railroad. This delightful sheet of water, seven miles long by three wide, is surrounded by mountains, which from every direction are mirrored on its quiet surface. Sugar-Loaf Mountain rises in the west, and Mount Crosby in the east. The Newfound and Pemigewasset Rivers unite near here, and add their attractions. Mount Kearsarge, N.H. (2,461 feet high), is four miles from Potter Place Station, on the Northern Railroad, reached by stage. This mountain is not unfrequently confounded with another of similar name, Kiarsarye (see North Conway), which, in an air line, is sixty miles distant in a north-easterly direction. Mount Kearsarge is a place of considerable repute as a summer resort. Its isolated position affords a magnificent view of the surrounding country ; the landscape is dotted by beautiful lakes ; and far in the northern horizon are seen the Fran- conia and White Mountains with the Green Mountains of Vermont at the left. Visitors will find comfortable quarters at the Winslow House, which is located half way up the mountain side. The steam frigate " Kearsarge " was named for this mountain. 120 POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. VERMONT. We strike the Central Vermont Railroad at "White River Junc- tion, a railway centre of importance. Considerable stop is made at this station, to allow passengers time for refreshment at the admirable restaurant in the depot. After New Hampshire, the Green Mountains of Vermont rival in popularity those of any other of the New-England States ; and of these Mount Mansfield (4,348 feet high), the crowning peak, is the most famed. This is an objective point from Sloive, one of the most fashion- able resorts in the State, which, when better known by illustrated descrij)tion, is certain of liberal jaatronage. Stowe is reached by the Central Vermont Railroad. From this place the excursion to Mount Mansfield (five miles) is made by carriage ; the visitor's path is shaded by a hardy grove, but the trees gradually decrease in size. To meet the demands of travel, a hotel, the Summit House, has been erected near the top ; which is largely patronized by those who would enjoy a sunrise from the summit. Mount jNIansfield is the central peak of several mountains, each a point of interest to visitors. Sterling Mountain (3,500 feet high), separated from Mount Mans- field by a gorge known as Smuggler's Notch, a wild, romantic pass which derived its name from incidents in the past history of the region. The drive from Stowe, nine miles, is picturesque and pleasant. The most impressive view of Smuggler's Notch is from Mount JNIansfield. Here also is a profile rock called " The Old Man," curious in itself, yet lacking the stern grandeur of its namesake in the Franconia Mountains. Bolton Falls, near Ridley's Station, form one of the interesting fea- tures of that favorite region for tourists, of which Mount Mansfield is the towering sentinel. More than four thousand feet below Mansfield's crest is a deep rugged ravine, overhung by frowning rocks, screened by foliage, and ornamented by mosses, lichens, and clinging vines. Here almost unseen this wild mountain stream boils and foams. Camel's Hump (4,083 feet in altitude) is but little below Mans- field, and is in the same neighborhood. It is also reached by the Central Vermont Railroad to Ridley's Station, thence by carriage six miles, to the base of the mountain. From this point, a carriage-road has been built three miles. A good pedestrian can readily inake the remainder ; but, for those who desire, saddle-horses are to be had. A small summer-house near the summit furnishes refreshments, and serves for protection in case of storms. The view is fine. POPtJI-AB RESORTS, AND HOW TO BEACH THKM. 121 Sheldon Springs have long been famous for the excellence of their waters, efficacious for rheumatism, erysipelas, &c. The scenery in the neighborhood also possesses many other attractive features. The Portland and Ogdensburg Railroad, leading from Portland past Sebago Lake, through the White Mountain Notch, will cross the Missis- quoi Valley Railroad at Sheldon. Highgate Springs are located immediately at the station of that name, and form the central group of a number of medicinal springs, many of which have become noted for the virtue of their waters, and when bet- ter known will rank higher as fashionable resorts. Among those within a few-miles' radius can be named Alburgh Springs, Missisquoi Sprwfjs, Cham- plnin Springs, Sheldon Springs, and Vermont Spt-ings. Highgate Springs con- tain chloride of sodium, carbonate of soda, and sulphate of soda. The proximity of Missisquoi Bag which lies at the east, and Highgate Falls only two or three miles distant, add to the attractions of this region. Champlain Springs and Highgate Falls are rival attractions at the village of the latter name. The waters of the springs are recom- mended for cancer, dyspepsia, and skin-diseases generally. Alburgh Springs are also reached by the Central Vermont Rail- road, and have won considerable attention. They are located north from Lake Champlain, and on the direct route from the "springs region " of Vermont to the Thousand Islands, Alexandria Bay, N.Y. If we make an approach to Vermont by the Fitchburg Railroad, we can visit "Wachusett Mountain of Princeton. Mass., having an altitude of 2,480 feet, which is very favorably known to tourists. It is a crowning eminence second only to Greglock in altitude, rising from an undulating yet highly cultivated country, and is located midway between Massa- chusetts Bay and the Connecticut River. It was occupied by Govern- ment officers on the coast survey, and forms a distinctive landmark for mariners approaching the coast. It has long been a popular resort; even the red men are said to have made it a rendezvous. Its beauties are enhanced by an attractive lake, Wachusetl, which nestles under its shadow. The elevated situation of the village of Princeton, the jiure water with which it is supplied, its invigorating atmosphere, and pleasing surroundings, would of themselves prove attractions sufficient to popularize the place with pleasure-seekers. To these are added the charms of Lake Wachusett, and Wachusett ]\Iountain; the former noted for the purity of its waters, the latter for the boldness and rich variety of its landscape. .122 POPULAR KESOKTS, ASTB HOW TO REACH THEM. If the tourist has a desire to climb another of New Hampshire's famous mountains, this will be found a convenient time to visit Mount Monadnock, in the town of Jaffrey, which has an altitude of 3,450 feet. (Vermont also has a mountain of the same name located near the little village of Colebrook.) This mountain is known as the Grand Monadnock, and is in the extreme southern section of the State. Being the highest elevation in the vicinity, it is a distinctive feature in the landscape. The view from this mountain is magnificent, and differs from that of any other in the vicinity. This elevation seems the con- necting link between the more undulating surface of Massachusetts, and the towering highlands of New Hampshire. In the east the historic shaft on Bunker Hill indicates the location of Boston. In the south- west, Wachusett, Holyoke, and Mount Tom form the conspicuous objects in the scenery; the green hiUs of Vermont become bluQ in the western horizon. In every direction, like gems set among the hills^ sparkle the waters of picturesque lakes, the queen of which, Contoocook, with its charming little steamer, lies half enveloped in the shades of the overhanging mountain. From the north, however, the landscape draws its grandeur. Rising one above another are seen all the important peaks of this mountainous State. A mineral spring in the vicinity adds to the attraction of Monadnock. ■ Contoocook Lake, set like a gem among the hills, as before men- tioned, nestles under the shadow of the grand old Monadnock. It is a delightful retreat for the pleasure-loving guests of the summer hotel clinging to a shelf on the mountain-side. A small steamer plies on its waters. Go to Jaffrey, N.H., via Monadnock Railroad. Bellows Palls, Vt. — Bellows Falls, or, as might more properly be said, cataract, forms an object worthy the attention of the sight-seer. It consists of a channel fifty feet in width, cut far down into the solid rock, through which the waters of the Connecticut River rush. A descent of fifty feet is made during the passage over which the river tumbles and foams. The scenery in the vicinity is fine, both in richness and variety. Bellows Falls may be reached by any of the railroad lines which strike the Connecticut River above or below. At this point connection is again made with the Central Vermont Railroad. Black River Falls, Springfield, are little more than a wild cascade where the stream has worn a curious fantastic channel through the slate formation. In a descent of six hundred feet the river falls one hundred and ten feet, fifty of which is by a single leap. Reached by the Central Vermont and Cheshire Railroads. POPULAR KESOllTS, AND HOW TO KEACH TUEM. 123 The Hoosac Tunnel is so far completed that trains for merchandise passed through it for the first time on the date of writing this article. By this great engineering success the Hoosac Mountain has been pierced, forming a direct passage from the Atlantic seaboard to the west. Ar- rangements for tourists are not yet completed, but this must eventually become one of the attractive features of an already interesting region. Go by the Vermont and Massachusetts Railroad from the east, or Harlem Extension from New York. If our approach to Vermont is by the Boston and Albany Railroad we shall pass near Mount Holyoke, a place long and favorably known as a popular resort. Although it has an altitude of only 1,120 feet, the prospect from it is remarkably fine. Many other mountains are higher, yet few afford more interesting- views. It has long been visited as a summer resort. As early as 1821 a hotel was erected on its summit, the same site now occupied by the famous Prospect House. It is ascended, partly by carriage, and partly by railway. Three hundred and sixty-five feet of the steepest portion is overcome by an incline six hundred feet, with cars drawn up by station- ary engine. Over twenty thousand visitors are annually lifted to this commanding spot. The mountain is but three miles from the thriving village of North- ampton, with a good carriage-road. Visitors can also go by horse-cars to the mountain railway. Northampton is reached by the Connecticut River, and New Haven and Northampton Railroads. Mount Tom (1,320 feet high), is also in this neighborhood, and is visited from Northampton (five miles). It commands a more extended view than Moimt Holyoke, but from the difficulty of ascent it has never gained the same popularity. Our next point of interest as we move westward is the Berkshire Hills, whose queen is the charming village of Pittsfield, Mass. One of the chief attractions is Lake Ashley, a quiet lakelet set on the summit of Mount Washim/ton (1,800 feet high), near the village of Pitts- field. Its pure limpid waters supply the town. Lake Onota, Pontoosuc Lake, Berry Pond (in Hancock), Melville Lake, or the Lily Bowl, Lulu Cascade, Silver Lake, and Sylvan Lake are also among the interesting attractions near Pittsfield, which is really one of the most delightful homes of the hill region of Massachusetts. It is reached by both the Boston and Albany, and Housa- tonic Railroads. Before continuing to Vermont, the tourist should not. fail to visit Greylock, the crowning peak of the Berkshire Mountains. 124 POPULAR RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. Oreylock is partially cleared on its summit, and commands a view pleasantly interspersed with every variety of landscape. Near by are the lower ranges of the Berkshire Hills, generally wooded to the crest ; be- yond are the hills and valleys of an undulating country, dotted with farm- houses, lakes, ponds, and villages, which are agi'eeably intermingled. Above and beyond stretching far into the blue distance may be seen the towering form of Grand Monadnock. Turning with the sun. Mount Wachusett, in the eastern section of the State, forms a notable feature. Holyoke and Tom are seen in the south-east, and the Catskills in the south-west. There are several paths by which the top of Greylock is reached. The ascent is somewhat tedious, but the cheering prospect repays the effort. Go via Boston and Albany Railroad. New Lebanon Springs are reached by rail on the Harlem Exten^ sion Railroad. Here may be found a fine summer house, which is well patronized during the season. The medicinal qualities of the waters are highly recommended, having a temperature at 73° ; the flow is large, and the fame of this spring is increasing. The surroundings are pleasant, walks good, and drives fine. The Shaker village is two miles distant. Mount Equinox (3,706 feet high) is one of the popular resorts of Manchester, Vt., from which A'illage a fine carriage-road has been constructed to the house on the summit. Of all the charming drives, for which the environs of Manchester are famed, that to Mount Equinox is the most desirable. The landscape view is extensive and exceedingly interesting ; reaching from the far-ofE Monadnock in the east, the Catskills in the west, to all the prominent Green Mountain peaks in the north. Manchester, which is reached by the Harlem Extension Rail- road, contains many other objects of attraction for tourists, lis fine hotels, the " Equinox " and " Taconic," are worthy of patronage. The village j)ossesses many picturesque charms which make it popular with visitors. Its marble walks shaded by beautiful trees give the place a quiet air of elegance. Clarendon Springs are located about six miles from Rutland, and not only form a delightful and much frequented resort for the citizens of that prosperous town, but are of themselves fashionable attractions. Killington Peak, having an altitude of 8,924 feet, is best visited from Rutland, which is reached by the Central Vermont, Rensselaer and Saratoga, and Harlem Extension Railroads. The excursion is made by carriage seven miles. The ascent requires the usual amount of hard climbing ; but the view from the summit is fine. POPULAB BESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 125 St. Catherine Lake, Poultney, is the central feature of many interesting points in tliat region. It is located six miles from the village by a pleasant drive. The lake is about five miles long. On a project- ing promontory at the lower end stands St. Catherine's Hotel, a summer house pleasantly situated. The St. Catherine, Haystack, and Moosekorn, mountains to whose lofty peaks pilgrimages are often made, look down upon its quiet waters. Lake Bomaseen near by, although less in magnitude, is a place of much attraction. Carter's Falls, the Bowl, the Gor(/e, and Middletown Springs are also objects of interest to visitors. Rensselaer and Saratoga Railroad. The Bread-Loaf Mountain it is not proposed to describe, nor the Bread-Loaf Inn where visitors rest, and are at home; but the quaint name is given to catch the fancy of tourists who would leave the beaten tracks of travel for a rustic jaunt among the emerald mountains of Vermont, — a real stage-coach ride of the olden time, up hills that are long and steej:), past gorges that are rugged and deep, for a quiet rest beyond. Leave the Central Vermont Railroad at Middlebury, and the stage will take you eleven miles to Ripton, and set you down at the Bread-loaf Inn. Good trout-fishing in the neighborhood. Lake Dunmore, Vt., derives its name from this historical incident. It is said, that, about the year 1770, Lord Dunmore visited this region, and, becoming enamoured of the beauties of this lake, waded into its crystal waters, and, pouring wine upon it, said, " Ever after this body of water shall be called Zfl^e i)iOT/nwre in honor of the Earl of Dunmore." Although this lake is but a half-dozen miles in length, its romantic situation, surrounded by high hills, the great depth and purity of its waters filled with gamey fish, and the many pleasant places in the vicinity, invest it with a rare interest to the guests of the Lake Dun- more House. Go to Salisbury, Vt., vid Vermont Central Railroad, thence four miles by stage. 126 POPTTLAlt KESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. ILLUSTRATED PLEASURE ROUTE No. 11. Boston to Providence, Stonington, New London, Shelter Island, New Haven, and New York City. SHORE LIXE RAILROAD. Engraved expressly for Bachelder's "Popular Resorts, and How to Reach Them. PROVIDENCE DEPOT, COLUMBUS AVENUE, BOSTON. POPTJLAE KESOETS, AND HOAV TO REACH THEM. 127 The Shore Line Railroad is a consolidated route of several com- panies, — the Boston and Providence, 44 miles; Providence and Stoning- ton extending to New London, 62 miles ; New York, New Haven, and Hartford, 122 miles : making the whole distance by rail, 232 miles. Upon the whole, the Shore Line is not merely the shortest to New York from Boston : it is the pleasantest, and in that respect the best. "\Ve wish to make clear notes of this important route. Before speak- ing briefly of the chief places along the way, we specially impress upon the reader to secure a careful look over the newest and very latest wonder of Boston's century, — the famous castle, or depot, just finished by the Boston and Providence Raikoad Company in Boston. In 1834 •this road "opened shop" in a depot of great elegance and imposing proportions — for that day; so pretentious, in fact, that it held up its respectable head in a comely and quite fashionable way, until January, 1875, when its president, dh-ectors, and company sat down in the present regal edifice. Two stone tablets at the entrance symbolize the 'whole significant story in a quiet way. The one records the names of i;he president, directors, superintendent, treasurer, and architects of 1834; and the other gives the names of like officials, under whose authority and care the company replaced the new for the old, forty years afterwards. The building is an eloquent witness; but the tablets reveal the secret of its birth, — the brains and the loins. It would be out of place here to tell how many gas-burners, how many miles of piping, how many rooms and for what, and all those ■minuter statistics which show the vastness of the whole work. The exterior, a perspective view of which is given, is an imposing, immense, and graceful composition, mainly of brick. Bricks are durable, but not ^elegant nor artistic, except in their arrangement; and yet the outside ^ives no conception of the splendor within. The approach and entrance is happy in its conception and elegant in execution. The impression made hy the grand hall for passengers is that of cathedral opulence and sump- tuousness. There is no gingerbread effort at effect ; but there is a profound sense of massive grace, of princely cost and lavishment, and of architectural refinement, which is the type of adaptation to aU time. A building more than the seventh of a mile in extent must arrest contemplation ; but to stand in a hall rich in tasteful outlines beyond power of words to fairly describe, expanded to one hundred and eighty feet, forty-four wide, and eighty feet to the ceiling, is a new thing under depot suns. Half a dozen country stations with all their pine devices, in wriggling sinuosities and affected grace, could be set in this immense case, and have comfortable elbow-room besides. One of the perfections of good taste in this structure is the space allotted for every room, not iorgetting the humble and the ignoble. 128 POPUIiAB RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. Not only every want and demand of the public, but every arm of the working force, is j)royided for in the same sumptuous and luxm-ious manner, even to baths for the conductors. In fact, the new depot of the Boston and Providence Road is a marvel of beauty, utUity, and modern progress. Others cover more earth-space, but this is the depot for the million. Its influence is not lost in its immediate atmosphere. Not only wiU every engineer, every conductor, every employee, feel a sort of proud identity with this palatial property; but, better still, the thousands who travel the road wiU feel the exulting and flattering consciousness, that all this unstinted bountifulness was intended for " us." It is " our " new depot to them; and the idea is full of shekels. " There are miUious in it. " On the route by the Shore Line to New York, from Boston, objects of rare interest continually occur ; as, indeed, they must in a region so alive with people and their industries. All along the course to Providence, thriving towns and pretty villages are found, with the gently rolling intervals of country farms and cottages. The cheerful co-operation of the railroad company in advancing facilities and encouraging all objects of enterprise has stimulated a healthful suburban growth. The city of Providence is of growing renown, as the focus of an immense smnmer travel, en route for Newport and the multitude of summer resorts, located upon the delightful shores of Narraganset Bay. The little thread of water, which runs from the bay up to Providence, is constantly enlivened by magnificent excm'sion steamers, puffy little "tugs," and graceful pleasure-boats, in " the season." Fresh breezes and fresh clams are the staple joys of all who go to the famous resort of Rocky Point. The city is a very pleasant place with numerous attractive local curiosities, and suburban drives. It is of goodly size, about a himdred thousand inhabitants. At Kingston tourists leave by stage for Narraganset Pier, a summer watering-place of growing popularity. Of its twenty hotels, all are well patronized in summer. It should be better known. ♦■ Stonington is a remarkably neat, pretty, and solemn place. It is a favorite resort in the summer for a select class, and has an excellent and well-kept hotel. "Watch Hill, but three miles across the bay from Stonington, is a delightful seaside location, being directly upon the coast, and possessing all the characteristics peculiar to the ocean's mar- gin. It is readily reached and largely visited from Stonington. Stonington is also important as the eastern terminus of the Steamboat Line from New York, a description of which supplements this article. At this point the route strikes Long Island Sound, which it follows closely, by which the tourist is cheered by many fine marine views, and invigor- ated by cool salt-water breezes. 130 POPULAK RK SORTS, AND HOW TO RKACH THKM. New London is another conspicuous and historic place, following Stoiiington, crossing the Thames River by ferry. A few days' tarry at the Pequot Home, at the mouth of the river, will incline the guest to repeat his visit. This is a first-class modern hotel, and is chiefly occu- pied by wealthy New York families in " the season." Among the notable sights is Fort Trumbull, one of our good Undo Samuel's peculiar sea-coast, burglar-proof safes, in which he keeps his " mad " stored up. It looks as though it was a very solemn and peace- able place, however ; but looks are deceptive, you know. The temptations to visit Neptune's domain are unusually great, and afford cheery sails and " lots " of plunder. This is the point from which to leave for Shelter Idand Park, located on Shelter Island, near Green- port, L.I., across the Long Island Sound, directly opposite from New Loudon, from which place a steamer runs regularly. New Haven is reached through quietly diversified, but pleasant land- scapes. The city itself is justly inclined to be a whit aristocratic, as it contains Yale College. It is called " The City of Elms," and holds many valuable and agreeable objects for the curious. It has a sweet, pictur- esque fringe of country scene, and will repay the time of a few days' tarry ; for which good hotel accommodations will be found. Fine steamei-s rmi from New Haven to New York twice daily, and connect ■ with other points also. There aire steamers likewise from Bridgeport to New York. This is an enterprising, thrifty place beyond New Haven. Pursuing the route, there are entered and passed successively South- port, Westport, Noi-walk, Darien, Noraton, Stamford, Greenwich, Port Chester, New Rochelle, and other places numerous but of less note. The journey ends in the far-famed Grand Central Depot, corner of Fourth Avenue and Forty-Second Street, in the great city and pande- moniimi of New York. This renowned depot, the centre of an amount of travel almost defyuig computation, we present in picture form ; and it is a worthy close of a trip commenced from the new Boston and Providence Depot. The peculiar advantage this route affords to Western travellers lies in the fact that the western trains of the New York Central and Hudson River Railroad also have their termination in the Grand Central; so that no time is lost, nor inconvenience felt, by change of cars. Still further liberality is found by Southern travellers, that their transfer is by coach and free of charge, if they have procm-ed through tickets, — a fact of which the knowing ones will take heed. The Fourth Avenue horse- cars start from this depot, by which, with connecting roads, tourists may visit any portion of the city. The system of baggage delivery prevailing here is too well understood to require description. POPULAR KESORTS, AND ITOAV TO JJKACU THK^r. 131 EXCURSION THROUGH LONG ISLAND SOUND, BY THE STONIXGTOX LINE. Nothing conduces so much to the pleasure of travel as a feelinjy of security. Whether flashing through the valleys of a beautiful landscape, around the hills, along the streams, or across the broad prairies ; whether skimming the waters of some placid lake, stemming the current of a mighty river, or ploughing old "ocean's billows," — the pleasure of the excursion will be in direct ratio to the confidence of the excursionist in the character and reliability of the route. In this particular The Ston- INGTON Steamboat Line stands at the head of steam travel in America. These boats possess the advantage of having been substantially built for outside service. They lay low in the water, presenting less sui'face to the winds, and in storms ride the waves " like a thing of life." They are unsurpassed for speed, comfort, and safety ; and, whatever the state of the weather, alwayx make the trip, and are sure of connections. The change from the busy whirl and heated streets of a crowded city to the open harbor, where the sea-breeze sweeps unobstructed from shore to shore, is a source of great relief ; and the sail from Xew York, through the harbor, up the East River, through Hell Gate, and down Long Island Sound, is one of the most delightful on the coast. The ferry-boats fly 132 POPULAB KESOBTS, AND HOW TO KEACH THEM. hither and thither like things of life. The gayly-dressed ships, bearing the fruit and merchandise of foreign climes ; the forest of masts, witn their streaming pennants, which for miles line the wharves along which , we sail; the magnificent suburban residences and fine public buildings, with cultivated grounds, which adorn the bank s ; and the receding city clothed in the rich, Avarm glow of a beautiful sunset, — combine to make this sail one of the enjoyable episodes of a pleasant tour. This is the GREAT ixsiDE LixE, leaving NeAv York every afternoon (Sundays ex- cepted) from Pier 33, Xorth River, at 5, r.:\r., ii^ summer, and 4 in winter, and continuing to Boston via Stonington, entirely avoiding Point Judith, a dangerous promontory, against which, during storms, the waves dash with fearful violence, making the passage, if not always dangerous, at least unpleasant to persons unaccustomed to sea-life. The Providence Railroad, by which passengers from the boat con- tinue to Boston, is oiae of the best appointed in the country. Its Chair Cars are a great luxury, and add much to the comfort of tourists. THE STONINGTON LINE POSSESSES ANOTHER IMPORTANT ADVANTAGE. Should any detention of the cars, or the probability of a rough or foggy night on the Sound, render such a course desirable, passengers from Boston for New York can change cars before reaching the boat, and con- tinue on the Shore Line by rail, thus insuring Southern or Western connections in New York. The Stonington Line presents unrivalled claims in the seaworthy character of its boats, an advantage fully tested during the unprecedented cold winter of 1874-5. The " Stonington " and " Narragansett " were staunchly built for out- side service : they lie low in the water, and in storms ride the waves " like a thing of life." The " Rhode Island " is a splendid boat in model, architecture, and finish ; it is furnished magnificently, and is claimed to be the fastest boat on the Sound. The spacious dining-room on the upper deck, the elegant state-rooms, smoking-room, with abundant facilities for jsrome- nade both inside and out, are among the luxuries this boat affords. The Stonington Line is the direct route of approach from New York aud the South to the summer resorts of Stonington, Watch Hill, and Nar- raganseit Pier: the latter a place of growing popularity, is patronized largely by New Yoi'kers. Its isolated position is a disadvantage ; yet its twenty or more hotels are always well patronized in " the season." Passengers by this line reach Boston via the Boston and Providence Railroad in season for breakfast at the magnificent restaurant of the Providence Depot, before continuing by the morning eastern or northern trains. POPULAK RESORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEM. 133 MIDDLE STATES. New York City — the great heart of the nation, whose throbs vibrate along the rails and magnetic wires which ramify into the re- mote recesses of the country — will repay a visit from tourists. But before entering upon the wonderful surroundings, and " how to reach them," of that huge and renowned metropolis of a continent, it may as well be said, that it would be almost impossible to pass through it without travelling into a portion at least of Broadway, — the mighty artery through which surges the dense flood of life and activity of that vast Pandemonium of civilization. And to gaze upon the masses of vehicles of every kind, — stages, carts, drays, carriages, handcarts, run- ning and racing, men and women, dogs, and every possible animated and moving thing, — is a scene even more stirring and exhilarating than are Niagara Falls, or the panoramas of the grandest mountains. In fact, Broadway, in full activity, is " a sight," — and well worth a long journey to see, if one saw nothing else. Indeed, it is a bewilder- ing wonder ; and while a New-Yorker moves amid all the seeming perils and inexpressible confusion, — " Calm as a summer's morning," — the visitor from a moderate city, or quiet town, is all aglow with excite- ment over the strange scenes. By all means see Broadway once. As might be expected in a city so immense, amid industries and wealth so vast, stupendous works of various kinds are required and in constant development. Those already completed, in progress, and in contemplation, can hardly be enumerated. The great bridge across the East River, the tunnel beneath the North River, the gigantic rail- road that cuts under ground, the startling railroad that travels in the air, the Croton-water masonry, the Central Park, the Grand Boulevard, and numerous other marvels of progress and cost, show the expansive energies of a million people, bent on improvement and wealth. But New York is not a handsome city inside. Like all " huddles " of men in huge congregation, dinginess and squalor are set beside the brilHants of splendor and wealth. Every phase of human existence can be found in New York, — from the filth and brutality that would make a Hottentot blush, to the magnificence and luxury which might excite royal envy. Edifices, public and private, upon which money and skill have been unstintedly lavished, are numerous, of course; but the shabby, rickety, tumble-downety shanties are far more abundant. New York is in its full robust vigor, in fact ; but many portions of it have passed it, and have a sadly old and jaded general look. A large num- ber of pleasure routes radiate from the city to the numerous popular resorts for which the Empire State is famous. 134 POPUL.MJ RESORTS, AKD HOW TO REACH THEM. NEW YORK CITY AND CATSKILLS. New York City does not come within the design of this work, as a place of "popular resort." It is the great cities whose tens of thou- sands swarm to distant places, in pursuit of rest and recreation, when the sun pours do -mi its summer heats. Cities have their peculiar points of striking interest, distinctive of art and wealth, refinement and cultivation. These are about as well studied, in the main, at one season as at another. Nature has .there been subdued; and more formal things usurp her claims. But all our notable cities have their fringes of exquisite charms, replete with luxuries and delicacies, to which the mul- titude make frequent resort ; and from these prolific centres the pilgrims iu pursuit of ease or pastime make their summer journeys. The vast suburban regions around New York present an infinite variety of nooks and resting-places free from heat and glare and city turmoil. To enu- merate these in detail would be useless. If we can glance at the leading lines of inviting travel, and places for repose, the balance can all be taken in while thus upon the wing. rP THE HUDSOX. Taking royal precedence of all rivals, commencing at the city of New York, is the Hudson River, —or, rather, its grand and glorious shore views. Novelty, in describing this renowned river, has long since passed out of the possible. Its panegyrists embrace the ablest pens and the most gifted minds, not to speak of the hosts who have tried and failed. Indeed, the scenery that paints the margin of the Hudson, and as far into the remote as vision can reach, simply defies the power of descriptive delineation in printer's ink. The delicate and appreciative colors of the true artist alone can exhibit the tenderness of the tints and shades; the gently serpentine lines ; the valleys and verdure ; the modest undula'ion ; the sharp and rugged ascent ; the grand and majestic mountain curves and piercing summits, with their soft haze, virgin blues, and rich, deep purples; and all these repeated, like a dream echo, in the water mirror between. It is genius only that can attempt to convey some grateful idea of how the scenery of the Hudson River fascinates and delights all minds and all grades of people, when viewed in the full glory of a robust summer. To enjoy the river to advantage, one should make the day trip, by steamer for .Albany. What will be seen must be left for the reader to learn by study, as he winds along the sinuous route of the river. It will richly repay for the time and cost of the trip, as a rare painting by nature, graced by many a gem of architecture and art. It should be borne in mind, that along the Hudson River, and at points not remote from its waters, are numerous memorable localities, where POPULAR RESOKTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEJI. 135 some of the sharpest conflicts and most momentous events of the Revo- lutionary war occurred. The holding of New York City by the British; their efforts to extend their occui3ation, and that of the patriots to hem them into as narrow a space as possible, — these, with the distractions which attend all like scenes, stamped the still living impress of the strug- gle upon many a field of strategy, skirmish, and battle. Of these. Forts Washington and Lee (both close to the city) are notable ; also Fort Tryon and King's Bridge. All these spots are mentioned in histories of the Revolution, especially the desperate battle at King's Bridge, in 1777. Yoiikers is as familiar to a New Yorker as the Central Park. The lover of old stories will find rare studies of old things around Pier- mont, N.Y., more especially the jail in which Major Andre was confined, and the spot where he was executed. These are at the ancient town of Tappan, near Piermont. Washington Irving's home, " Sunnyside," is plainly seen on the right as you ascend the River Hudson. Tarrytown, N.Y., where Major Andre was arrested, is a notable place. Cooper's graphic descriptions of the " Skinners " and " Cowboys " are laid in this region ; and Irving's " Sleepy Hollow " is also close by. Sing Sing, N.Y., is chiefly noted for its great prison and the Croton Aqueduct. Croton Point, N.Y., holds the great lake and the vast reservoirs which supply the city of New York with water. Some of the grandest triumphs of modern engineering skill are here to be seen. At Haverstraw, N.Y., Arnold and Andre met to arrange for the surren- der of West Point. It is about forty miles up the river. The famous '• Stony Point," the scene of " Mad " Anthony Wayne's gallant exploit, lies just above Haverstraw, in New York State. Peekskill, N.Y., has several Revolutionary reminiscences in its midst. On the opposite side of the river is the place where Capt. Kidd is said to have buried the treasures so much sought for, but not yet found. .Vscending Hudson River, and once past Peekskill, the grand diversities of " the Highlands "' open to view, and continue to excite wonder and admiration, beyond the power of language adequately to express. These conunence about fifty miles up the Hudson, and are probably unsur- ])asse(l for romantic scenery by any river travel in the Old World or in the New. To mention even the more notable, much less all the familiar fea- tures along and near this river, or to attempt a detailed description of them, would demand too much space. West Point, the most renowned fortification on this continent, stands at the entrance to the Highland scenery of Hudson River, N.Y., and is a specially conspicuous object of interest to strangers. Back from the Hudson River, N.Y., some dozen miles, rise the cele- 136 POPULAR RESOBTS, AND HOAV TO REACH THEM. brated Catskill Range, or Kaats-Kills of New York, said to have been named by the Dutch, on account of the catamounts found there. By the Indians thsy were called Ontioras, meaning " a cloud-like appear- ance." These mountains are a part of the great Appalachian chain, extending from Canada East to the Gulf of Mexico. Their especial point, however, is the range following the course of the Hudson River for twenty or thirty miles, — lying twelve miles west, separated by t'l? richly productive CatskiU Valley. It is at this part of the Hudson t!i -.t the landscape is the most charming; and tourists always meet with glaJ surprise this, the objective point of the " Beautiful Hudson." The Catskill Mountains, renowned in stoiy and in song, have long been famous as summer resorts. Thousands of those eager to escape the heat and discomforts of great cities annually visit the haunts of " Rip Van Winkle," which Washington Irving in one of his charming legends so gracefully portrays, where amid grand views and picturesque scenery, the summer is passed pleasantly and rapidly away. The many mountain streams filled with trout, the wild unbroken forests abounding with game, the cool temperature, and pure watei's, are among the many inducements offered to the tourist, the sportsman, and the invalid. The advent of the Neio York, Kingston, and Syracuse Railroad through this region, opens up a new route which renders the trip both easy and pleasant, alike to the aged and infirm, and has greatly increased the popularity of these retreats. The little travel, time, and expense re- quired in reaching these regions excel all other mountain resorts. The high prices exacted for board, the reign of fashion, and whirl of excitement, at the fashionable watering-places, deter many from seeking that recreation which their health requires. Throughout this region, in isolated positions and in considerable clusters, are large hotels, and attractive boarding-houses, where, at prices ranging from six to ten dollars per week, ample accommodation, a good table, and kind attention await the guest. There are two distinct routes by which tourists approach the Catskill s: one from Kingston oiu the New York, Kingston, and Syracuse Railroad ; and by the old popular line by stage from Catskill Station : both of which are described. Visitors from New-York City can go by either of ,the elegant and commodious steamers "Thomas Cornell," or "James W. Baldwin," from the foot of Harrison Street; the fast and famous Socamer " Mary Powell," from the foot of Vestry Street ; the Albany Day Boats " Drew" or " Vibbard; " the New York Central and Hudson iRiv^r liailroad, apd JheJErie Railway. I POPULAK RESORTS, AXD HOW TO REACH THEM. 137 APPROACH FROM KINGSTON STATION. At Kingston, all of the above-named steamers and tviiins connect daily with the New' York, Kingston, and Syracuse Railroad, to the mountain regions of Ulster, Delaware, and Greene Counties. This company has recently purchased handsome coaches, wliich are under the charge of attentive officials ; and the traveller will find the trip to the mountains easy and pleasant. As the train winds its way around and up the mountains, gorgeous scenery surrounds him on every hand. From the car-window the tourist looks out upon the grand, majestic Catskills, each peak rich. in romantic legends. Drinking in the pure cool breezes of the mountains, inspired by the picturesque grandeur of the scene, he is sure to rememl)'^r it as one of the finest views that has greeted him in any quarter of the globe. A ride of nine miles brings the tourist to West Hurley. This is the point of debarkation for passengers bound for the Ocerlook Moun- tain House. It is situated on Mount Overlook, the most lofty of the summit of the Catskill range. Its height is thirty-eight hundred feet above the level of the sea. The scenery from its peak is of the boldest and most romantic description. The hotel has a capacity to comfortably accom- modate five hundred guests. The telegraph and postal facilities are ample. The temperature is remarkably eool, the thermometer seldom reaching higher than seventy -eight degrees. Eighteen miles farther up the Shandaken Valley brings us to Phoenicia. Here passengers destined for Hunter, Greene County, will find stages in waiting. The scenery from Phoenicia to Hunter is perhaps the most attractive of any among the Catskills. The drive through the famous S/on;/ Clore, and a visit to the Kauterd'ill Falls and Plattcklll Racine, are of themselves sufficient to attract many to this charming resort. Still travelling through a b'^autiful valley, replete with the most romantic scenery, the tourist arrives at Shandaken. The scenery here is the annual study of a large number of artists : it is picturesque and exceedingly beautiful. This is also the point of debarkation for tour- ists crossing the " Notch," and visiting Weslk'dl and Lexington. The Notch is one of the most curious features of the mountain. The public road crosses the mountain at this point, through a narrow defile with abrupt precipices about twelve hundred feet high on either side, which appear to close in at the top. In summer it affords an impene- trable shade, where snow and ice remain nearly the whole year through in th'j clefts of the rock. 138 POPULAU KKSORTS, AND HOW TO REACH THEXt. Big Indian is thirty-six miles from Kingston at the foot of the gjade ascending Pine Hill, and about five miles from the summit grade of the road, and is one of the most favorite resorts for trout-fishing. The scenery is wild, and presents some of the most fascinating mountain views. Again taking the train, while vce slowly wind and twine our way around and up Pine Hill, we gaze w^ith silent admiration and awe upon the magnificence and sublimity of the scene. It is broad and grand, and beyond the power of reproductive art. Having crossed Pine Hill at an elevation of nearly two thousand feet above the level of the sea, we soon glide into Maryaretsrillc, Delaware County. This inviting little village is delightfully situated on the banks of the Delaware River. We are now in the vicinity of the famous fish- ing and hunting grounds of the Beacerlill and MillbrooL There are two good hotels located here. Jumping aboard the train agaiii we soon find ourselves at Iloxhur;/. The tourist entering this village is at once impressed with the neatness of its appearance, and the beaut}' of its location. At Morescille passengers for Prattsville, Ashland, "Windham, and Hensonvill^ in Greene County, will find splendid four-horso coaches in waiting. Pratlscille. — This is an attractive little village cosily nestled among the Catskills. and has a population of seven hundred inhabitants. Here are located a number of fine boarding-houses. Wiodham. This is the headquarters for city boarders in CJreene County. Of all the towns upon our route, none are more attractive to the pleasure-seeker ; none present more pleasant social aspects, or equal it in its picturesque scenery, and grand surroundings. HtiisonciUe is a beautiful mountain village, situated about three miles from Windham, and contains a number of first-class boarding-houses, and is each year increasing in popularity. Stamfont, Delaware County, is the present terminus of the railroad. This charming little village, situated over eighteen hundred feet above the level of the sea. will long detain the visitor by the pleasant strolls which it invites among its shady streets, bordered by cosey ri^sidences and elegant pleasure-grounds ; by the many drives which are aft^orded in its environs through inviting groves, into beautiful villages, an