|tt 1 €>\1 1 .US 1 SB . 1^ I »% s n ■ i rap?- I H| K&^9b^ I lip ^H H '• • • M H 1 ' SMraV j355?»£*?vt5^' BhH -'" 1 . ' RBR ■-■',■■•< JSagSfeigF^fc '--:''■* "''■'-'•••.*'' ■■■■■bHhI BP^y^fo'^— aJMamial of WORK GARMENT (^Manufacture How to improve quality and reduce costs Union Special Machine Company CHICAGO. USA In presenting this loose leaf reference booklet we do so with the assurance that our readers will realize its highly technical value. The Union Special Machine Company prepared this work as a service to its' customers, and it is evident that it could not be accomplished without research and mechanical work involving great expense. In order to make this service permanent we have made provision for the addition of loose pages which will be sent to the holders of this booklet from time to time as additional data is compiled. The value of this ser- vice will be readily seen for it will positively keep the reader informed of the new machines and attachments which this company will introduce to the field. Also the new methods of manufacturing work garments and modern designs of the work garment itself. May we not suggest that this booklet be retained to enable us to keep you thoroughly informed of the very latest developments in the garment industry? UNION SPECIAL MACHINE COMPANY 400 North Franklin Street CHICAGO, ILL. New York, N. Y., 65 Bleecker Street Philadelphia, Pa., 12th & Arch Streets Boston, Mass., 144 Kingston Street Cincinnati, Ohio, 229 East 6th Street St. Louis, Mo., 1127 Pine Street Utica, N. Y., 9 Blandma Street Rochester, N. Y., 36 St. Paul Street Amsterdam, N. Y. 13 Railroad Street Cohoes, N. Y., 5 I Mohawk Street Minneapolis, Minn., 324 South Fourth Avenue Johnson City, N. Y., 16 North Broad Street San Francisco, Calif., 682 Mission Street UNION SPECIAL MACHINE CORPORATION OF AMERICA 87 Boulevard Sebastopol PARIS, FRANCE UNION SPECIAL MACHINE CO. OF CANADA, LTD. 64 Temperance Street TORONTO, ONTARIO, CANADA 5 Copyright — 1921 Union Special Machine Co. Manufacturers of Power Sewing Machines Sewing Room Engineers ©CU62263 6 Index BACK BAND OVERALLS PAGE 8. OVERALL SUSPENDERS PAGE 40. HIGH BACK OVERALLS PAGE 44. TRIPLE STITCHED OVERALLS PAGE 46. OVERALL JACKETS PAGE 50. TRIPLE STITCHED JACKETS PAGE 60. COMBINATION WORK GARMENTS PAGE 64. TRIPLE STITCHED COMBINATION GARMENTS . . PAGE 72. CHILDRENS COMBINATION GARMENTS PAGE 74. KHAKI TROUSERS PAGE 81. GOVERNMENT TEST OF STITCHES PAGE 84. THE "DOUBLE LOCKED STITCH" PAGE 84. HOME OF UNION SPECIAL MACHINE CO PAGE 88. STANDARD TABLE OF GAUGES PAGE 45. "Watch Your Stitch!" "See That It Is Double Locked" Introduction In comparing the overall and other work garments of today with similar apparel of the past, it is obvious that the demands of the American workman for quality, fit, and attractiveness have been large- ly fulfilled. The men on the farms, in the engine cabs, in the shops and engaged in building construction are now wearing the product of efficiently conducted factories, where every conceivable means known is employed to turn out garments that satisfy. That the sewing machine deserves credit for a good portion of this goes without saying, but it is generally conceded that Union Special machines revolutionized the overall industry by doing away with the old bundle system. This enables each operator to remain continuous- ly on one operation, resulting in greater and better production. The use of Union Special sewing machines has increased rapidly and many machines that were designed to meet special operations have finally become perfected and standardized until today a list of sewing ma- chines stands ready to fill the overall manufacturer's every want for seams of strength and elasticity. In Union Special machines, the thread goes into the seam with all its strength and luster unimpaired. No chafing of the thread by passing many times through the eye of the needle before being finally drawn into the goods as is the case with all shuttle stitch machines. Users of Union Special machines realize their characteristic high speed and many other points in their favor set forth in this booklet. It is our intention to give a reliable treatise on the proper method to manufacture overalls and allied garments, giving the best machine specifications for each operation, whether Union Special make or not. The succeeding pages should be of vital interest to anyone en- gaged in the manufacture of work garments or to anyone contemplat- ing entering this industry. List of Operations on Back Band Bib Overalls 1. Making fly. 10. 2. Button-holes in fly. 3. Making front. 11. 4. Felling bib seam. 5. Sewing on front band and 12. attaching bibs. 13. 6. Hemming bib. 14. 7. Stitching hip and rule pock- 15. ets to back. 16. 8. Felling back seam. 17. 9. Sewing on back band. Facing sides and attaching ticket. Felling inside and outside seams of legs. Hemming bottoms. Sewing button-holes. Tacking- Attaching buttons. Trimming loose threads. Final inspection and fold- ing. 10 CUTTING ROOM. \ ■ - rRONT Bnchr i. MatriNG rur 7. STITCHING HIP f^oCHTTS Z. BUTTON HOLES /n rur* 3. TELLING BfiCK 5EGM 3.MBH-/NG rRONT 3. STITCHING ON BhCIT BfiND 4-. TELLING BIB ^SEIftM 10. F-fiCING SIDES 5. STITCHING IN TJPONT 3/9NJ} G.HEMMIHG BIB ' BODr Or OVETRrlLL II. TELLING IN* OUT SEfihIS 12. HEMMING BOTTOMS 13. BUTTON HOLES 14. T/9C/T/NG 15. BUTTONS lb. TRIMMING LOOSE THREADS 17. T/NfiL INSPECT/ON chart or OP£TRfiT/ONS rOR BfiCrt- Br?ND BIJB OV£Tf?rlL.L.S. 11 A High Grade Overall 12 S0[D00[5][§ S-3S.&3S-J*. c <* sj * 5 ^ L rn —, «•) ■* ■■» 4 ■a <•> Ol <-) p» ^* >J "» C •si 'J ^--^--^--^--s-^fs- * 'i | _|0|0|g|0| Q|o|o|g| Q~ o o 9 Q I "J L j o J o ~$ ' N t> t> ts- e« IS U l] Cs t» t^ ts. \» s9 5 'J c 41 S 3 a 1 'S 1 S 5 -0 Is 1 V, | Vi "«5 : > >» Bl 1 k-, 1 o > ») n> "J : "1 »5 'T ») "> "s c-i <-) «■> -j "■> ~> ►) '■■) "1 "-. c «3 "i !•) "1 Wi 1 *•* 1 ** 1 *i BJ pj —1 "1 <*3 1 ^ 1 ""> 1 ^ c "1 PI PS *n -> u <•> ~> "3 "'J ~> '■• <-> ] "> .' "■> S--3-7B-VJ- , 7f f. 6 O o O O § •1 L 0> | tfl o o o O • c 00 to 00 ts. N fc> ■" ^ <0 ^0 <0 t«. ts. t» r - i s r- K e» r^ f- t^- fc- - t- ts. t-~ t- t>. *- "" u 1 l\ •J 1 © • R) c "i ») ■*> »> "3 "> "5 "3 -** 1*3 T >»i "a "-.I "3 "S L n p) "5 «) "i "3 r 'l "5 • ^ N Ni , ^5 < 13 Table A A,B,C, D,E,F, F F,G G,H, H.I.J J J,K K,L,M M.N.O O P P,Q Description of Layout For Back Band Overalls Required Production — 500 Dozen Daily Actual Production — 630 Dozen Daily 8 hour day. Operation Number 9 10 1 1 12 13 14 15 Description of Operation Machines Av. Daily Number Recommended Production of Each Mach. Machines Making fly Union Special 320 doz 6500 Fly button-holes Button-hole 125 Making fronts Shuttle Stitch 8 Felling Bib Seam Stitching on front band and joining bibs Hemming bib Stitching on 2 hip pockets and 1 rule pocket Felling back seam Stitching on Back Band Hemming sides and sewing on ticket Felling inside and outside leg Hemming leg bottoms Sewing button- holes Tacking Attaching but- tons Union Special 12100, 31500 7500, 17100 Union Special 16500, 16800 Shuttle Stitch Union Special 8300 Union Special 7500, 12100, 17100, 31500 Union Special 16500, 16800 Shuttle Stitch Union Special 12100, 31500 Union Special 11500 Button-hole Tacking Button machine 210 90 37 20 05 80 20 17 70 63 57 90 5 78 17 31 4 30 37 9 10 11 14 v l-j ~M 1 » . <*> ^ c% 3 **> "1 «i ^ 14 t»-*«0 "> lt» D ^*-. ■• •• / 5 /to 4. •■ •■ n 3. - /0 z ^o \JJ & EolD CUT Mo 5t Bundle No -^ op'r. iso. *J-y r /T>| TRIM VJ3/ THREADS .CUT No. 3? BUNDLE No 2/ 1 OP'R NO 3^ /f>\ Buttons Cut no 3¥ Bundle no 2/ OP'R NO *Jl M4) TACKINQ ICUT NO 5^ 1 BUNDLE .No.*' i OP'R NO jV /yz\ BUTTON yjy HOLES Cut no 3^ Bundle no */ OP'R NO. 2(? ,/j^v HEN, |V ^-/ BOTTOMS , CUT NO 3V ■ BJNPLE NO */, OP'R NO 0/ /Tj\ FELL IN & UU OUT SEAMb CUT NO 5^ BUNDLE NO.*' OP R NO lS ,/JJN FACE smE | MVJ / | TICKET ON 'CUT NO 3^ 1 BUNDLE NO 27 1 OP'R NO 53 y s 2^ band CUT NO. Vf Bundle no*' OP'R NO. 7o [ /q\ FELL BACK \OJ 5EAM ■ CUT NO 3V , BUNDLE NO */ , OP'R NO- ^y f^j\ HIP^RULE \Ss POCKETS COT no yj BU N DLE N0 7) op'r n o vy !(6) MENi iV_y Bib v 1 CUT INI O • >7 •JBUMDLE NO 2-/ 1 OP'R NIO / /£\ FRONT vi/ band CUT N o 3V BONOLE MO. 2-' OP'F? NO. 'V l(2) FELL BIB 'V / SEAM | CUT NO . -2V I BUNDLE NO 2-/ 1 OP'R NO .23 /7\ MAKIKiq PJ FROMT" CUT MO >T BUNDLE NO *' O P' R • N O /O !/^\ FLY Button \\£J HOLES •cut mo 3V ( Bondle no ■ J/ i OP'R NO fO 20 General Notes on Equipment For Sewing Room The sewing room is often located on the top floor of the building with the cutting room adjacent, for both require the best of light. If a new building is contemplated, it is advised that a "saw- tooth" roof construction be incorporated in the plans. This type of roof has two features that are a positive stimulant for greater production: namely, proper ventilation and as much daylight as pos- sible. As shown in the figure, this is a very simple construction and while it costs more than a flat roof, this item is compensated for in the long run by less costly light bills, good air, etc. Incidentally, the currents of air have a tendency to go upward, thus carrying the fine lint off the floor and also away from the intricate mechanism of the machines. Illumination As shown in the figure the day- light comes from the north and thus prevents the sunlight from shining in the eyes of the opera- tors, an advantage over the ordi- nary skylight. However, sky- lights installed in an old building -C are the proper thing inasmuch as to install a saw-tooth roof would mean an entire new roof. The saw-tooth roof is recommended for a new building only. Artificial illumination is, of course, necessary at times and the ideal arrangement is the over- head indirect lighting with white walls, etc. Where this cannot be had, it is recommended that each operator have an individual ad- justable light. CLASS WINDOWS *•» K. Welfare It is not intended to go into the matter of welfare to any great length here but it is certain that rest rooms in a large factory em- ploying young women are necessary and likewise the first aid station with a nurse in attendance. This always inspires confidence in the employees. For those employees who cannot reach their homes for luncheon, a cafeteria will be found advantageous. 21 Description of Operations and Equipment for Back Band Bib Overalls Making Overall Fly (Operation No. 1) Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Machine Style 65l>0 H. Folder, 23182 D. Presser Foot, 642 7 B. Feed Dog, 9705. Throat Plate, 9724 B. Thread recommended, 3 cord 24 glazed in needle; 3 cord 36 soft in looper. Number of stitches to the inch, 9. Average production per hour, 40 dozen. Fly Button Holes (Operation No. 2) Standard Equipment: Button-hole Machine. Average production per hour, 1 5 dozen. M iking Fronts For Bib Overalls (Operation No. 3) This operation consists of making and closing front pockets, com- bination pocket on bib, make and join fork to fly; stitch box at top end of fly, make and sew in watch pockets, joining fronts together. Standard Equipment: Single Needle Shuttle Stitch Machine. Thread Recommended, 3 cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord, 24 soft in bobbin. Number of stitches to the inch, 9. Average production per hour, 1 dozen. \ Union Special Machine 6500 22 Note: In case it is desired to finish pockets in the manner shown above, this is done in a separate operation. Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Machine Style 15400Q. Presser Foot, 1 542 7 G. Feed Dog, 15405 W. Throat Plate, 1 5424 J. Thread recommended, 3 cord 60 silk finish in needle, 2 cord 50 soft finish in looper. Number of stitches to the inch, 1 1 . Average production per hour, 9 dozen. Union Special Machine 15400 Q Felling Bibs (Operation No. 4) This operation consists of felling and stitching together the two halves of the bib. The following helpful hints are recommended as an aid to the operator: To obtain the highest possible production on felling bibs for overalls, it is necessary to learn to hold the work properly. The edges to be felled should be held in the left hand, the under ply between the second finger and the thumb, allowing the edge to be even with the top of the second finger, and to slide between the finger and the thumb, the finger holding the material against the under scroll of the folder, and at the same time pressing the material against the fold- 23 er, so as to retard the material. The upper ply is held between the first and second fingers of the left hand and should be allowed to slide through the fingers freely. Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Machine Style 12100 B-5. Folder, 601-5-7-64. Presser Foot, 12120 E-5. Thread recommended, 3 soft in looper. Number of stitches to the inch, 9. Average production per hour, 26 dozen . Feed Dog, 12105 E-5. Throat Plate, 12124 E-5. cord, 24 glazed in needle; 3 cord, 36 Union Special Machine Class 12100 Note: Felling the bib seam can also be done very efficiently on a Flat Bed machine, giving the same high grade results. Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Two Needle Machine Style ?500 B-5. See page 30 for illustration of machine. Folder, 600-5-7-64. Feed Dog, 7505. Presser Foot, 198 A-5. Throat Plate, 7524 B-5. Thread recommended, 3 cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord, 36 soft in looper. Number of stitches to the inch, 9. Average production per hour, 26 dozen. Note: 4 and 4'/? gauge can also be had if desired. See Stand- ard Table on page 45. 24 Felled Seam as Seen Through Magnifying Glass Stitching on Front Band and Joining Bib to Overall (Operation No. 5) This operation consists of stitching a band to the front of over- all and at the same time attaching bib. The following helpful hints are recommended as an aid to the operator: The collapsible folder is used to prevent bulkiness at the sides of overalls and instead of turning in both the side of the bib and the end of the band, the operation should be done as follows: In starting the work at the side, lower folding device is col- lapsed or drawn together sufficiently to remove the edges of band passing through the folding device from a point outside of the needles to a point inside the needles; thus preventing the needle from stitching the lower strap until a point is reached opposite the edge of the overall. This leaves stitched only the edge of the bib which protrudes be- yond the side of the overall and which is necessary for finishing pur- poses. That portion of the strap beyond the sides of the overall can then be cut with a pair of shears, leaving only the side of the bib to 25 finish with machines, and only six thicknesses of material at the in- turned portion of the bib to be stitched through instead of twelve were this not done, making it easy to button-hole. The same thing occurs on the opposite side. When the operator reaches the edge of the overall, she collapses the folder by pressing the knee treadle which controls the collapsing mechanism removing the edge of the band from the path of the needles, and then continues the sewing operation to the extreme side of the overall. The machine is not stopped or slowed down, as the collapsing is done without loss of time. Style 16500 B with Puller Fitted for Joining Bibs to Overalls Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Machine Style 16500 B-80 gauge equipped wih pulling mechanism. Note: If desired, 88 and 96 gauge machines and parts can be had. Collapsible Folder for turning edge of band, 23324 K-80. Folder for turning edge of bib, 23325 E-96-3-16. Presser Foot, 16220 B-80. Guide for body of overall, 23326 A. Feed Dog, 16505-88. Throat Plate, 16224-80. FRONT* BI& INSIDE BAND Thread recommended, 3 cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord, 36 soft in looper. Number of stitches to the inch, 9. Average production per hour, 1 1 dozen. 26 iuinii Mt Hill H i HIU11 ifsiiiiiiiiiiiiiii ^f llllf Illlil fIi illll iilSIP'l"!II l v "" - ■ 1111 Sewing Front Band and Attaching bibs to Overalls with four rows of stitching The Union Special Machine Company has perfected a machine to do this operation with four needles. The above photograph shows a garment with band and bib at- tached in this manner. Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Machine Style 1 6800 Z-4- 1 6-64- 1 6, equipped with pulling mechanism. Collapsible Folder for turning edge of band, 23324 K-96. Folder for turning edge of bib, 23325 E-96-3-16. Presser Foot, 16834 D- 1 6-64-16. Guide for body of overall, 23326 A. F RONT BIB INSIDE BAND Feed Dog, 1 No. 16805 B. 2 No. 16805 D- 16. Throat Plate, 1 6844 K- 1 6-64- 1 6. Thread recommended, 3 cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord, 36 soft in looper. Number of stitches to the inch, 9. Average production per hour, 1 1 dozen. 27 28 29 An ideal table arrangement is shown in the photographs on op- posite page. The lower picture shows not less than 1 overall fronts on the table and the remaining fronts, or the balance of the bundle of two dozen, lying to the left of the operator, and still plenty of room. Hemming Bibs (Operation No. 6) Standard Equipment: Single Needle Shuttle Stitch Machine. Thread recommended, 3 cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord, 24 soft in bobbin. Number of stitches to the inch, 9. Average production per hour, 4Yl dozen. Stitching on Hip and Rule Pockets for Bib Overalls (Operation No. 7) The following helpful hints are recommended as an aid to the operator: The operation is started on the upper right hand corner of the pocket. The material is turned downwardly and inwardly by the op- erator and is guided by her finger. The bar on the edge of the presser foot is used as a guide for the edge of the pocket. An experienced operator will stitch around the side and bottom of the pocket, in- cluding the corners without stopping. Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Machine Style 8300 Z-4. Presser Foot, 8220 B-4. Feed Dog, 7205 A. Throat Plate, 8224-4. Thread recommended, 3 cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord, 36 soft in looper. Number of stitches to the inch, 9. Average production per hour, 2 Yl dozen. Felling Back Seams (Operation No. 8) This operation consists of felling and stitching with two rows of stitches, the back or seat seam. Note: For three rows of stitches see page 48. The same helpful hints are recommended as for operation No. 4. For the standard equipment, thread recommended, and number of stitches per inch for this operation, see operation No. 4, page 23. Average production per hour, 1 3 dozen. 30 Union Special Machine 7500 Used for operations Nos. 4 and 8 on overalls — felling bibs, seat seams, etc. Stitching on Single Piece Back Band to Bib Overalls (Operation No. 9) This operation consists of attaching a strip or band to the top of the back at the same height as front band. See page 24 for helpful hints. Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Two Needle Machine Style 16500 D-80 gauge, equipped with pulling mechanism. Note: If desired, 88 and 96 gauge machines and parts can be had. Collapsible Folder, 23360 C-1%. N Or Noncollapsible Folder, 23360 B- 1 % )Presser Foot, 16220 B-80. ^ Guide, 23300 A. Feed Dog, 16505-88. Throat Plate, 16224-80. Thread recommended, 3 cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord, 36 soft in looper. Number of stitches to the inch, 9. Average production per hour, 22 dozen. backC — .SINGLE PIECE ©AND 31 Union Special Machine Class 16500 Photograph of Single Piece Back Band 32 Sewing Back Bands with Four Rows of Stitching Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Machine Style 1 6800 Z-4-1 6-64-16, equipped with pulling mechanism. Top Folder, 23329 D. Bottom Folder, 23324 K-96. Presser Foot, 16834 D- 16-64- 16. . Feed Dogs, 1 No. 16805 B. 2 No. 16805 D-16. Throat Plate, 1 6844 K- 1 6-64- 1 6. Thread recommended, 3 cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord, 36 soft in looper. Number of stitches to the inch, 9. Average production per hour, 22 dozen. Stitching and Folding Two Piece Back Band to Bib Overalls Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Machine Style 16500 Z-80, equipped with pulling, mechanism. Note: If desired, 88 and 96 gauge machines and parts can be had. Collapsible Folder for under strip, 23324 K-80. Folder for upper strip, 23328 H-80. Presser Foot, 16220B-80. Guide, 23326. Feed Dog, 16505-88. OUTSIDE BAND BACK CQIZ || ) INSIDE BANE 33 Throat Plate, 16224-80. Thread recommended, 3 cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord, 36 soft in looper. Number of stitches to the inch, 9. Average production per hour, 22 dozen. Hemming Sides of Back Band Overalls (Operation No. 10) This operation consists of facing the sides of the overall at pockets, and attaching ticket. Standard Equipment: Single Needle Shuttle Stitch Machine. Thread recommended, 3 cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord, 24 soft in bobbin. Number of stitches to the inch, 9. Average production per hour, 2 '/2 dozen. Felling In and Out Seams (Operation No. 11) This operation consists of felling and stitching with two rows of stitches the inside and outside of legs. Note: For three rows of stitches see page 48. Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Two Needle Machine Style 12100 B-5 gauge. For illustration of this machine see page 23. Folder, 601-5-7-64. Presser Foot, 12120 E-5. Feed Dog, 12105 E-5. Throat Plate, 12124 E-5. Thread recommended, 3 cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord 36 soft in looper. Number of stitches to the inch, 9. Average production per hour, 2 J/4 dozen. 34 A page of typical band seam constructions for overalls BACK INSIDE BAND I Folders 23329 D and 23324 K BACK ) ) INSIDE BAND Folders 23329 D and 23324 K c OUTSIDE BAND J BACK V V Folders 23328 H and 23329 B OUTSIDE BAND BACK Folders 23328 H and 23329 B BACK OUTSIDE BAND -> BACJO INSIDE BAND Folders 23328 H and 23324 K OUTSIDE BAND INSIDE BAND Folders 23328 H and 23324 K backC SINQLE PIECE BAND y Folder 23360 C or 23360 B D dACKj SINGLE PIECE BA.NC Folder 23360 B ) 1 outside: band 3 BIB FRONT OUTSIDE BAND — 'b ) 1 FRONT Folders 23328 H and 23329 B Folders 23328 H and 23329 B FRONT* BIB INSIDE BAND F RONT' BIB Folders 23325 E and 23324 K INSIDE BAND Folders 23325 E and 23324 K 35 A page of standard folders used in making overall: 600 23325 E 23367 23324 K 23328 H Bottom View of Single Piece Back Band Folder, Illustrating Collapsible Feature 23360 C 36 37 Hemming Bottoms (Operation No. 12) Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Single Needle Machine Style I 1500 G-^ inch. Hemmer, 23364. Presser Foot, 1 1 520 H-%. Feed Dog, 11505 H. Throat Plate, 1 1 524 H. Thread recommended, 3 cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord, 36 soft in looper. Number of stitches to the inch, 9. Average production per hour, 9 dozen. Union Special Machine Class 11500, for Hemming Bottoms of Overalls 38 Actual Photograph of Hemmed Bottom BUTTON-HOLES (Operation No. 13) Standard Equipment: Button-hole machine. See operation No. 2, page 2 1 , for fly button-holes. Average production per hour, 8 dozen. Tacking (Operation No. 14) Standard Equipment: Tacking Machine. Average production per hour, 7 dozen. Attaching Buttons (Operation No. 15) Standard Equipment: Button Machine. Average production per hour, 1 1 J/4 dozen. 40 List of Operations on Suspenders for back band Overalls 1. Stitching shoulder straps 7. Finishing raw edge of but- 2. Stitching suspender loops ton-hole tabs 3. Cross cutting shoulder 8. Sewing button-holes straps 9. Barring 4. Cutting elastic 10. Tacking free end of suspen- 5. Attaching buckles der loop 6. Attaching metal loops 11. Inspection 41 Making Suspenders for Back Band Overalls The blue denim in all weights is supplied in 28 inch widths. Shoulder straps are cut 3 15-16 inch wide and finished to 1^4 inch wide. Quite often the bolt of cloth is too narrow to permit the cut- ting of seven full size strips. When this occurs the narrow strip is cut up for suspender loops. These loops are cut Y& inch wide and the narrow strip usually furnishes five strips for suspender loops. A machine for splitting cloth into widths for this operation can be had on the market which will cut and roll the strips in one opera- tion and which has a capacity of several thousand dozen daily. Stitching Shoulder Straps (Operation No. 1) These machines are either run singly or as many as three simul- taneously, one operator running all three machines, using a special de- vice which is connected with the transmitters, for control. Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Two Needle Machine Style 16500 Z- 104, equipped with pulling mechanism. Folder, K-30822. Feed Dog, 16250-96. Presser Foot, 16527 C- 104. Throat Plate, 16224-104. Thread recommended, 3 cord, 40 silk finish in needle, 2 cord, 50 soft finish in looper. Number of stitches to the inch, 12. Average production per hour for each machine, 430 yards. Union Special Machine 6900 H 42 Stitching Suspender Loops (Operation No. 2) The machine for stitching suspender loops can be run simultane- ously with the shoulder strap machines, thus requiring only one oper- ator for as many as four machines if desired. Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Machine Style 6900 H-l 6. See page 4 1 for illustration Folder, 23254 L. Presser Foot, 6920 A- 16. Feed Dog, 6905 H-l 6. Throat Plate, 6924 H-l 6. Thread recommended, 3 cord, 40 silk finish in needle, 2 cord, 50 soft finish in looper. Average production per hour for each machine, 600 yards. Cross Cutting Shoulder Straps (Operation No. 3) This operation consists of cutting the shoulder straps, button hole tabs, and suspender loops to the proper length. There is a machine on the market adjustable to any length and which has the capacity of several thousand dozen daily. Cutting Elastic (Operation No. 4) This operation consists of using a small, electric, circular knife machine which is attached to the table. The operator guides the work through the machine, cutting the elastic at the mark woven or printed thereon for that purpose. This machine is capable of cutting 1500 dozen daily. Attaching Buckles (Operation No. 5) The machine for this operation is installed with a wooden hopper holding the buckles. This hopper is set in rear of the machine and the open end is inclined so that the buckles are fed to fall on the cloth plate, making it handy for the operator, and preventing the buckles from spreading over the table. Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Machine Style 9900 Z. Feed Dog, 9905. Throat Plate, 9928 E. Presser Foot, 9920. Thread recommended, 3 cord, 40 silk finish in needle, 2 cord, 50 soft finish in looper. Average production per hour, 2 Yl dozen pair. Attaching Metal Loops (Operation No. 6) This operation consists of inserting the free end of suspender strap through the buckle. This is a hand operation. Union Special Machine Class 9900 for Attaching Buckles Finishing Raw Edge of Button-Hole Tabs (Operation No. 7) Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Machine Style 15400Z (3 thread stitch). Preaser Foot, 1 5424 J. Throat Plate, I 5420 A. Feed Dog, 15405 W. Thread recommended, 3 cord, 40 silk finish in needle, 2 cord, 40 soft finish in looper. Average production per hour, 32 dozen pair. Sewing Button-Holes (Operation No. 8) Standard Equipment Button-hole Machine. Average production per hour, 650 holes. Barring (Operation No. 9) This operation consists of attaching button-hole tab to the elastic and then attaching the other end of the elastic and the suspender loop to the shoulder strap. Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Machine Style 15500Z (3 thread stitch). Presser Foot, I 5520 G. Feed Dog, 15505 C. Throat Plate, 1 5 528 K. Thread recommended, 3 cord, 40 silk finish in needle, 2 cord, 40 soft finish in looper. Average production per hour, 1 dozen pair. Tacking Free End of Suspender Loop ( Operation No. 10) Standard Equipment: Tacking Machine. Average production per hour, 38 dozen pair. 44 High Back Overalls High back overalls are made exactly the same as back band overalls with the exception that the suspenders are attached to the back, shown in the accompanying figure. 45 List of Operations on High Back Overall. 1. Making fly 9. Felling in and out seams 2. Sewing fly button-holes 10. Hemming bottoms 3. Making front 11. Sewing button-holes 4. Felling hib seam 12. Tacking 5. Sewing on front band and 13. Attaching buttons attaching bibs 14. Making and attaching sus- 6. Hemming bib penders, hemming sides 7. Stitching hip and rule pock- and sewing on ticket ets to back 15. Trimming loose threads 8. Felling back seam 16. Final inspection and folding It will be noted that the operations for a High Back Bib Overall are the same as for a Back Band Bib Overall with the exception of operation No. 1 4. Hence it will only be necessary to describe this operation. Making and Attaching Suspenders, Hemming Sides of back and Sewing on Tickets ^operation No. 14) Standard Equipment: Single Needle Shuttle Stitch Machine. Thread recommended, 3 cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord 24 soft in bobbin. Number of stitches to the inch, 9. Average production per hour, 1 dozen. Note: We are specifying standard gauges only. Any other gauge desired can be obtained; all that is needed is to notify us of your re- quirements. Standard Table of Gauges No. 1 gauge 3-32 inch. No. 4 J/2 gauge J4 inch. No. 2 gauge J/g inch. No. 5 gauge 9-32 inch. No. 3 gauge 5-32 inch. No. 5 Vi gauge % inch. No. 4 gauge 3-16 inch. No. 6 gauge 13-32 inch. For any gauge not shown in above table the following rule will prevail : Specify Gauges by 64ths of an inch For example: — If it is desired to have Yi-'mch space between stitches, the number of the gauge would correspond to the number of the 64ths or 32. Likewise %-inch width would be 48 gauge. 46 Triple Stitched Overalls The Union Special Machine Co. has perfected and has in successful operation three needle ma- chines for stitching the principal seams of overalls with three rows of stitches, giving greater strength, elasticity and a better appearance than the two rows of stitching. Garments sewed with these machines stand up better in laundering, and retain a neat, smooth finish until discarded, due to the fact that the triple stitched seam will not pucker. The center or third row of stitching prevents the puckering or lifting of the fabric between the two outside rows of stitching. The puckered garment is not only unsightly but it is weak as well, for the high spots of the puckered seam soon wear down and with it the stitching, resulting in the opened seam. That the three stitched seam requires more thread in lineal feet goes without saying, but this small increase in consumption of thread is more than offset by the greater demand for triple stitched product. The resulting seam of a three needle machine is flat and straight and twisted overall legs are au- tomatically eliminated by use of the machines de- scribed below. There is no more mechanical attendance nec- essary in a three needle machine than in a two nee- dle machine. These machines run from 2600 to 2800 R. P. M., which is as fast as the average operator can handle the work. The wearers of overalls and other work gar- ments are learning that triple stitched seams last longer and look better than those stitched with two rows of stitching. Overall manufacturers find four distinct ad- vantages in the use of triple stitch machines: 1. They produce a flat seam; center needle stitches down the raw edges of the lapped seam and prevents bunching of material between rows of stitching when garment is washed. 2. The triple stitch eliminates the twisted leg effect and makes the overall hang straight. 3. It improves the wearing quality of the gar- ment. 4. It gives the manufacturer who uses it an effective new sales appeal, an important factor in meeting the present keen competition. And in addition to these qualities it gives you the high speed, uniform Double Locked stitch and simple operation characteristic of all Union Speciai Machines. 47 We give below a partial list of manufacturers of triple stitched overalls. The largest mail order houses, such as Montgomery Ward & Co., Sears, Roebuck & Co., specify triple stitched work garments almost exclusively. Alexander Bennie Co Nashville, Tenn. H. A. Allen Mfg. Co Nashville, Tenn. Altoona Overall Co Altoona, Pa. American Overall Co Harrison, Ohio American Wholesale Corp Baltimore, Mel. Buckeye Overall Co Versailles, Ohio Peter Blum Mount Healthy, Ohio B. & O. Mfg. Co Baltimore, Md. Caldwell Overall Co Hillsboro, Ohio Central Overall Co Baltimore, Md. Charleston Mfg. Co Charleston, W. Va. L. C. Chase & Co Watertown, Mass. Cohn Goldwater & Co Los Angeles, Calif. Cooper, Coats & Case D. C. Co Los Angeles, Calif. Cowden Mfg. Co Kansas City, Mo. Crane Overall Mfg. Co Jeffersonville, Ind. Federation Overall Mfg. Co Davenport, Iowa Wm. M. Finck & Co Detroit, Mich. M. Fine & Sons New Albany, Ind. Forest City Overall Co Rockford, 111. Freeland Overall Mfg. Co Freeland, Pa. Gem Shirt Co Dayton, Ohio Globe Overall Co Cincinnati, Ohio Globe-Superior Corp Abingdon, 111. Goldstone Bros San Francisco, Calif. Gross Bros. Mfg. Co Galesburg, 111. Guiterman Bros. Co St. Paul, Minn. Knocker Shirt Co Portland, Ind. The Iron King Overall Co Baltimore, Md. The Ironall Factories Cincinnati, Ohio La Crosse Garment Co La Crosse, Wis. Lang Mfg. Co St. Paul, Minn. Large & Roomy Overall Mfg. Co Cincinnati, Ohio H. D. Lee Mercantile Co Kansas City, Mo. H. D. Lee Mercantile Co Minneapolis, Minn. H. D. Lee Mercantile Co South Bend, Ind. H. D. Lee Mercantile Co Trenton, New Jersey Levy Overall Mfg. Co Cincinnati, Ohio L. Lewin & Sons Chicago, 111. Little Bros. Co Knoxville, Tenn. Louisville Overall Co Louisville, Ky. Martin Bros. Co La Crosse, Wis. Lewis Meier Co Indianapolis, Ind. Miller Mfg. Co Kansas City, Mo. Motor Clothing Co. & Southern Overall Co Baltimore, Md. Patrick-Duluth Garment Co Duluth, Minn. Reliance Mfg. Co Chicago, III. Regal Mfg. Co Knoxville, Tenn. Rice Stix D. G. Co St. Louis, Mo. Rombo Bros Baltimore, Md. Rosenberg Co Winona, Minn. Rosenbloom S Baltimore, Md. Shimelfarb, H Chicago, 111. Simon & Mogilner St. Paul, Minn. J. W. Sinnock & Sons Quincy, 111. Stevenson Overall Co Portland. Ore. Twin City Mfg. Co Minneapolis, Minn. United States Overall Co Ft. Worth, Texas United States Overall Mfg. Co Cincinnati, Ohio Warsaw Overall Co Warsaw, Ind. Wheeler & Motter Merc. Co St. Joseph, Mo. Western Mfg. Co Minneapolis, Minn. Western Union Mfg. Co Kansas City, Mo. Wyman-Partridge D. G. Co Minneapolis, Minn. 48 Felling bib Seam Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Three Needle Machine Style 31500B. Folder, 23367-9-7-64. Presser Foot, 31520C-9. Feed Dog, 31505 B- 10. Throat Plate, 31524 B-9. Thread recommended, 3 cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord, 36 soft in looper. Number of stitches to the inch, 9. Average production per hour, 26 dozen. Note: This operation can also be accomplished very efficiently on a Flat Bed machine, giving the same high grade results. Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Machine Style 1 7100 C. Folder, 23331-9-7-64. Presser Foot, 17120D-9. Feed Dog, 17105 C- 10. Throat Plate, 17124C-9. Thread recommended, 3 cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord, 36 soft in looper. Number of stitches to the inch, 9. Average production per hour, 26 dozen. Felling back Seam The same equipment is recommended as for Felling Bib Seam. Average production per hour, 1 3 dozen. Felling In and Out Seams Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Machine Style 31500B. Folder, 23367-9-7-64. Presser Foot, 31520C-9. Feed Dog, 31505 B- 10. Throat Plate, 3 1524 B-9. Thread recommended, 3 cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord, 36 soft in looper. Number of stitches to the inch, 9. Average production per hour, 2 '/4 dozen. 49 The above photograph illustrates why Union Specials are universally used for sewing the seams of overalls and any other garment that requires strength, elasticity and attractiveness. The carpenter shown in the above picture bends down in a similar position hundreds of times daily, stretching and straining every seam in the overall. But he can put all his thought on his work for there is absolutely no danger of ripping. His overalls are sewed on Union Specials. 50 51 52 List of Operations on Overall Jackets with Sleeves Set in Tubular Form 1 . Piecing sleeves. 2. Facing sleeves for cuffs. 3. Felling sleeves in tubular form. 4. Stitching two large and one small pocket to fronts. 5. Stitching one inside pocket and one combination pocket to front. 6. Stitching facing to front. 7. Stitching center back seam and felling two side back seams. 8. Joining fronts to back at shoulder seam. 9. Making collar. 1 0. Sewing on collar and ticket. 1 1 . Setting in tubular sleeves. 12. Hemming bottom of body. 1 3. Tacking. 1 4. Sewing button-holes. 1 5. Eyelets for detachable buttons. 1 6. Attaching buttons. 1 7. Trimming all loose threads and shaking. 1 8. Final inspection and folding. For operations on overall jackets with sleeves set in flat, instead of tubular, see page 62. 53 Actual Photograph of a High Grade Overall Jacket Note the triple stitched seams. 54 Description of Operations and Equipment for Overall Jackets with Sleeves set in Tubular Form Piecing Sleeves (Operation No. 1) See page 60 for stitching this operation with 3 rows of stitches. For sleeves as shown in the figure on page 50, the cuffs con- sist of an inside facing. This requires the piecing operation to be done prior to the facing and the felling of sleeves in tubular form after facing. Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Two Needle Machine Style 7500 B-5 gauge. Note: 4 and 4 J/2 gauge can be had if desired. Folder, 600-5-7-64. Presser Foot, 198 A-5. Feed Dog, 7505. Throat Plate, 7524 B-5.^ Thread recommended, ? cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord, 36 soft in looper. Number of stitches to the inch, 9. Average production per hour, 9 Dozen. Note: This operation can also be done very efficiently on a Cylinder Machine, giving the same high grade result. Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Two Needle Machine Style 12100 B-5 gauge. Note: 4 and 4J/2 gauge can be had if desired. Folder, 601-5-7-64. Presser Foot, 12120 E-5. Feed Dog, 12105 E-5. Throat Plate, 12124 E-5. Thread recommended, 3 cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord, 36 soft in looper. Number of stitches to the inch, 9. Average production per hour, 9 Dozen. Facing Sleeves for Cuffs (Operation No. 2) Standard Equipment: Single Needle Shuttle Stitch Machine. Number of stitches to the inch, 9. Thread recommended, 3 cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord, 24 soft in bobbin. Average production per hour, 2 Dozen. 55 Felling Sleeve in Tubular Form (Operation No. 3) See page 60 for Triple Stitching this operation c , S ^?nn r o f^ ui P ment: UNION SPECIAL Two Needle Machine otyle I Z I 00 B-5 gauge. Order 4or4|/ 2 gauge if desired. Folder, 601-5-7-64. PresserFoot, 12120E-5. Feed Dog, 12105 E-5. Throat Plate, 12124 E-5. Thread recommended, 3 cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord, 36 soft in looper. Number of stitches to the inch, 9. Average production per hour, 9 Dozen. Felling Sleeves on Union Special Class 12100. Stitching on One Small and Two Large Patch Pockets to Front (Operation No. 4) The following helpful hints are recommended as an aid to the operator: The operation is started on the upper right-hand corner of the pocket. The material is turned downwardly and inwardly by the op- erator and is guided by her finger. The bar on the edge of the presser foot is used as a guide for the edge of the pocket. An experienced operator will stitch around the side and bottom of the pocket, includ- ing the corners, without stopping. 56 Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Machine Style 8300 Z-4 gauge. Presser Foot, 8220 B-4. Feed Dog, 7205 A. Throat Plate, 8224-4. Thread recommended, 3 cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord, 36 soft in looper. Number of stitches to the inch, 9. Average production per hour, 2 Yl dozen. Stitching One Inside Pockei and One Combination Pocket to Front (Operation No. 5) Standard Equipment: Single Needle Shuttle Stitch Machine. Thread recommended, 3 cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord, 24 soft in bobbin. Number of stitches to the inch, 9. Average production per hour, 3 Dozen. Stitching Facing to Front (Operation No. 6) This operation consists of stitching a strip inside of fronts, one for attaching buttons and the other for sewing in button-holes. Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Machine Style I6500Z-96. Folder, 23324 K-96. Presser Foot, 16220 B-96. Feed Dog, 16505-96. Throat Plate, 16224-96. Thread recommended, 3 cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord, 36 soft in looper. Number of stitches to the inch, 1 0. Average production per hour,' 9 dozen. Stitching Center Back Seams and Two Side Back Seams (Operation No. 7) See page 60 for Triple Stitching this operation. The same equipment is recommended as for operation No. 1 . Average production per hour, 3 dozen. Joining Fronts to Back at Shoulder Seam (Operation No. 8) See page 6 1 for Triple Stitching this operation. This operation is done with the same equipment as given for op- eration No. 1 . Average production per hour, 1 dozen. Making Collar (Operation No. 9) Standard Equipment: Single Needle Shuttle Stitch Machine. Thread recommended, 3 cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord, 24 soft in bobbin. Number of stitches to the inch, 9. Average production per hour, 8 dozen. 57 Stitching Collar and Ticket to Body (Operation No. 10) Standard Equipment: Single Needle Shuttle Stitch Machine. Thread recommended, 3 cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord, 24 soft in bobbin. Number of stitches to the inch, 9. Average production per hour, 5 dozen. Setting in Tubular Shaped Sleeves (Operation No. 11) See page 6 1 for Triple Stitching this operation. This operation consists of attaching sleeves to body, after sleeves are in tubular form. Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Two Needle Machine Style 1 1 700C5 gauge. Attachment, 2329 I E-5-7-64. Presser Foot, 1 1 720F5. Feed Dog, 1 1 705B. Throat Plate, 1 1 724A5. Thread recommended, 3 cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord, 36 soft in looper. Number of stitches to the inch, 9. Average production per hour, 2 Yl dozen. Union Special Machine Class 11700 used for Setting In Tubular Sleeves 58 Outside and Inside View of Sleeve Set in Jacket on Machine Class 11700. 59 Hemming Bottom of Body (Operation No. 12) Standard Equipment: Single Needle Shuttle Stitch Machine. Thread recommended, 3 cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord, 24 soft in bobbin. Number of stitches to the inch, 9. Average production per hour, 7 dozen. - For making a very substantial and attractive hem, with the Dou- ble Locked Stitch, we recommend the following: Single Needle UNION SPECIAL Machine 1 I 500 G. Folder, 23364. Presser Foot, 1 1 5 2 OH for % or Yi inch hem. Feed Dog, 1 1505 H. Throat Plate, 1 1 524 H. Thread recommended, 3 cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord, 36 soft in looper. Number of stitches to the inch, 9. Average production per hour, 7 Dozen. Tacking (Operation No. 13) Standard Equipment: Tacking Machine. Average production per hour, 8 dozen. Sewing Button-Holes (Operation No. 14) Standard Equipment: Button-hole Machine. Average production per hour, 9 dozen. Eyelets for Detachable Buttons (Operation No. 15) Standard Equipment: Eyelet Machine. Average production per hour, 1 1 dozen. Standard Table of Gauges No. 1 gauge 3-32 inch. No. AYz gauge 1-4 inch. No. 2 gauge 1-8 inch. No. 5 gauge 9-32 inch. No. 3 gauge 5-32 inch. No. bYl gauge 3-8 inch. No. 4 gauge 3-16 inch. No. 6 gauge 13-32 inch. For any gauge not shown in above table the following rule will prevail: Specify Gauges by 64ths of an inch For example: — If it is desired to have 1-2 inch space between stitches, the number of the gauge would correspond to the number of the 64ths or 32. Likewise 3-4 inch width would be 48 gauge. 60 Triple Stitched Overall Jackets with Sleeves Set in Tubular Form We refer the readier to page 46 where the good qualities of the Triple Stitched, seam are clearly explained. Obviously, the one point of better appearance should be sufficient inducement for the manufacturer to produce jackets with triple stitched seams. Piecing Sleeves (Operation No. 1) Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Three Needle Machine Style 1 7100 C. Folder, 23331-9-7-64. Presser Foot, 1 7120 D-9. Feed Dog, 17105 C- 10. Throat Plate, 17124 C-9. Thread recommended, 3 cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord, 36 soft in looper. Number of stitches to the inch, 9. Average production per hour, 9 dozen. Note: This operation can also be accomplished very efficiently on one of our Side Wheel Cylinder machines. Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Three Needle Machine Style 31500 B. Folder, 23367-9-7-64. Presser Foot, 31520 B-9. Feed Dog, 31505 B- 10. Throat Plate, 31524 B-9. Thread recommended, 3 cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord, 36 soft in looper. Number of stitches to the inch, 9. Average production per hour, 9 dozen. Felling Sleeves in Tubular Form (Operation No. 3) Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Three Needle Machine Style 31500 B. Folder, 23367-9-7-64. Presser Foot, 31520 B-9. Feed Dog, 31505 B-10. Throat Plate, 31524 B-9. Thread recommended, 3 cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord, 36 soft in looper. Number of stitches to the inch, 9. Average production per hour, 9 dozen. Stitching Center Back Seam and Two Side Back Seams (Operation No. 7) The same equipment is recommended as for operation No. 1 . Average production per hour, 3 dozen. 61 Joining Fronts to Back (Operation No. 8) This operation is done with the same equipment as for operation No. Average production per hour, 1 dozen. Felling Sleeves on 3 Needle Union Special Machine Class 31500. Setting in Tubular Sleeves with Three Rows of Stitches (Operation No. 11) Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Three Needle Machine Style 1 9 1 00 A-9. Folder, 23291 G-9-7-64. Presser Foot, 19120-9. Feed Dog, 19105 A- 10. Throat Plate, 19124-9. Thread recommended, 3 cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord, 24 soft in looper. Number of stitches to the inch, 9. Average production per hour, 2 Yi dozen. 62 Jacket with Sleeve At- tached in Flat Form The coat shown above is made in the same manner as the tubular sleeved jacket with the exception that the sleeves are sewed in flat and closed simultaneously with the side seams in the same manner as in felling shirts. Due to this difference, the sequence of operations is as follows: 1 . Piecing sleeves. 2. Making cuffs. 3. Sewing cuffs to sleeves. 4. Stitching two large and one small pocket to front. 5. Stitching on inside pocket and combination pocket. 6. Stitching facing to front. 7. Stitching center back seam. 8. Joining front and back at shoulder seams. 9. Making collar. 1 0. Sewing on collars and ticket. 1 1 . Sleeving.* 12. Felling sleeves and side seams.* 1 3. Hemming bottom of body. 1 4. Tacking. 1 5. Sewing button-holes. 1 6. Eyelets for detachable buttons. 1 7. Attaching buttons. 1 8. Trimming all loose threads and shaking. 19. Final inspection and folding. ^Operations 1 1 and 1 2 are the only ones that will require any description in addition to that already given for the operations for tubular sleeve jackets. 63 Sleeving (Operation No. 11) This operation consists of attaching the sleeve in flat form to the jacket in the same way as for shirts. The following helpful hints may be of interest to the operator: For this operation the sleeve should be held between the second finger and the thumb of the left hand, allowing the sleeve to slip or slide between them, and keeping the edge of the sleeve even with the top of the second finger, and the end of this finger holding the sleeve close to the lower scroll of the folder, and pressing down on the sleeve, holding it tightly between the finger and the flat side of the folder, to slightly retard the sleeve. The body of the garment is held be- tween the first and second fingers, permitting the material to slip or slide freely through the fingers. This leaves the right hand free to as- sist the body of the garment through the arm of the machine. In making a flat fell, the material next to the feed should always be re- tarded and the ply next to the presser foot permitted to run through freely. This will give a smooth and sightly finish. Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Two Needle Machine Style 7500 B-5. Note: 4 and 4 J/2 gauge can be had if desired. Folder, 600-5-7-64. Presser Foot, 198A-5. Feed Dog, 7505. Throat Plate, 7524 B-5. Thread recommended, 3 cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord, 36 soft in looper. Number of stitches to the inch, 9. Average production per hour, 7 J/2 dozen. Felling (Operation No. 12) This operation is similar to the operation No. 3 for jackets with tubular sleeves, (see page 55). In addition to closing the sleeve this operation includes closing the sides of the jacket, in the same manner as that used in felling shirts, stitching from cuffs to bottom of jacket. Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Two Needle Machine Style 12100 B-5. Note: 4 and 4'/2 gauge can be had if desired. Folder, 601-5-7-64. Presser Foot, 12120E-5. Feed Dog, 12105 E-5. Throat Plate, 12124 E-5. Thread recommended, 3 cord, 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord, 36 soft in looper. Number of stitches to the inch, 9. Average production per hour, 5 J/2 dozen. Note: The principal seams can be triple stitched in the same manner as outlined for jackets with tubular sleeves. See page 60 for description. 64 65 66 List of Operations on Men's Combination Work Garment 1 . Stitching under cuff facing. 2. Piecing sleeves. 3. Facing cuffs. 4. Stitching combination and flap pockets to fronts. 5. Stitching one inside pocket to front. 6. Making fly. 7. Sewing fly button-holes. 8. Making and closing front swing pockets and stitching box at top end of fly, etc. 9. Joining top and bottom of each side of front. 1 0. Stitching hip and rule pockets to back of pants parts. 1 1 . Joining top and bottom of each side of back. 12. Felling center back seam. I 3. Joining fronts and backs at shoulder seams. 1 4. Sleeving. 15. Felling sleeves and side seams. 1 6. Stitching on band. 1 7. Hemming for button stay and center plait. 1 8. Making collar. 19. Stitching on collar. 20. Felling inside leg seams. 2 1 . Hemming bottoms. 22. Sewing button holes. 23. Tacking. 24. Attaching buttons. 25. Trimming loose threads. 26. Final inspection and folding. Note — Some manufacturers prefer to have one operator do sev- eral similar operations which can be done on the same machine. For example, Operations Nos. 11, 12, 13 and 14 can all be done by the same operator. Likewise Operations Nos. 1 5 and 20 can be accomplished by the same operator, if desired. 67 A Modern "Triple Stitched" Combination Garment 68 Description of Operations and Equipment for Men's Combination Work Garment Stitching under Cuff Facing (Operation No. 1) See page 72 for Triple Stitching this operation. This operation consists of stitching that part of the sleeve seam under facing. This permits using a one piece facing and allows the facing to cover the stitched seam, making a more comfortable cuff to the wearer. Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Two Needle Machine Style 7500 B-5. A 4 or 4 '/2 gauge machine can be had if desired. Folder, 600-5-7-64. Presser Foot, 198 A-5. Feed Dog, 7505. Throat Plate, 7524 B-5. Thread recommended, 3 cord 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord 36 soft in looper. Number of stitches to the inch, 9. Average production per hour, 20 dozen (about 4 inches of stitch- ing). Note — This operation can also be done very efficiently on a cyl- inder machine, giving the same high grade results. Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Two Needle Machine Style 12 1 00 B-5. A 4 or 4'/2 gauge machine can be had if desired. Folder, 601-5-7-64. Presser Foot, 12120 E-5. Feed Dog, 12105 E-5. Throat Plate, 12124 E-5. Thread recommended, 3 cord 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord 36 soft in looper. Number of stitches to the inch, 9. Average production per hour, 20 dozen. Piecing Sleeves (Operation No. 2) See page 73 for Triple Stitching this operation. This operation consists of stitching the sleeve parts together, start- ing at the placket. The same equipment as recommended for operation No. 1 should be used. Average production per hour, 9 dozen. Facing Sleeves for Cuffs (Operation No. 3) This operation consists of stitching a facing inside the sleeve for cufr. Standard Equipment: Shuttle Stitch Machine. Thread recommended, 3 cord 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord 24 soft in bobbin. Number of stitches to the inch, 9. Average production per hour, 2 '/4 dozen. 69 Stitching Combination and Flap Pockets to Fronts (Operation No. 4) Standard Equipment: Single Needle Shuttle Stitch Machine. Thread recommended, 3 cord 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord 24 soft in bobbin. Number of stitches to the inch, 9. Average production per hour, ^4 dozen. Stitching One Inside Pocket to Front (Operation No. 5) The same equipment as used for Operation No. 4 is recom- mended. Average production per hour, 6 dozen. Making Fly (Operation No. 6) Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Machine Style 6500 E. Folder, 23182 D. Presser Foot, 642 7 B. Feed Dog, 9 705. Throat Plate, 9724 B. Thread recommended, 3 cord 30 glazed in needle, 3 cord 36 soft in looper. Number of stitches to the inch, 9. Average production per hour, 40 dozen. Sewing Fly Button-Holes (Operation No. 7) Standard Equipment: Button-hole Machine. Making and Closing Front Swing Pockets, Joining Parts to Fly, Stitching Box at Top End of Fly (Operation No. 8) Standard Equipment: Shuttle Stitch Machine. Thread recommended, 3 cord 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord 24 soft in bobbin. Number of stitches to the inch, 9. Average production per hour, 1 dozen. Note — In case it is desired to finish pockets with a serged edge as shown on page 22 this is done in a separate operation. Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Machine Style 15400 Q. Presser Foot, 1 542 7 G. Feed Dog, 15405 W. Throat Plate, 1 5424 J. Thread recommended, 3 cord 60 silk finish in needle, 3 cord 50 soft in looper. Number of stitches to the inch, 1 1 . Average production per hour, 1 4 dozen. 70 Joining Top to Bottom of Each Side of Fronts (Operation No. 9) This requires only a single row of stitches as the strain is not so great as that in the back of the garment. Standard Equipment: .UNION SPECIAL Single Needle Machine Style 6500 B. Cloth Plate Gauge 24. Presser Foot, 6520 Feed Dog, 9205 E. Throat Plate, 9224 E. Thread recommended, 3 cord 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord 36 soft in looper. Number of stitches to the inch, 9. Average production per hour, 1 dozen. Stitching Hip and Rule Pockets to Pants Parts Including Tool Hanger (Operation No. 10) The following helpful hints are recommended as an aid to the operator: The operation is started on the upper right hand corner of the pocket. The material is turned downwardly and inwardly by the op- erator and is guided by her finger. The bar on the edge of the presser foot is used as a guide for the edge of the pocket. An experienced operator will stitch around the side and bottom of the pocket, includ- ing corner, without stopping. Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Machine Style 8300 Z-4. Presser Foot, 8220 B-4. Feed Dog, 7205 A. Throat Plate, 8224-4. Thread recommended, 3 cord 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord 36 soft in looper. Number of stitches to the inch, 9. Average production per hour, 6 dozen. Joining Tops to Bottoms of Each Side of Backs (Operation No. 11) This consists of seaming the back of pants to the back of jacket. This stitching is noi shown on figure, see page 65 as it is covered by band, which is stitched on later. Note Operations 11, 12, 13 and 14 can all be done by one op- erator, if desired. The same equipment as specified for Operation No. 1 is recom- mended. Average production per hour, 1 2 dozen. Felling Center Back Seam (Operation No. 12) This operation consists of joining the sides of the back together and includes a run from the neck to the crotch. The same equipment as specified for Operation No. 1 is recom- mended. Average production per hour, 8 dozen. 71 Joining Fronts and Backs at Shoulder Seams (Operation No. 13) See page 73 for Triple Stitching this operation. The same equipment as specified for Operation No. 1 is recom- mended. Average production per hour, 20 dozen. Sleeving (Operation No. 14) This operation consists of attaching the sleeves to the body of the garment in flat form, the same as sleeving shirts. The same equipment as specified for Operation No. 1 is recom- mended. Average production per hour, 3 dozen. Felling Sleeves and Side Seams (Operation No. 15) See page 73 for Triple Stitching this operation. This operation consists of seaming the sleeve into tubular form and continuing the closing of the side seams of the garment running all the way down to the bottom of legs. Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Two Needle Machine Style 12100 B-5. Note 4 or 4 J/2 gauge can also be had if desired. Folder, 601-5. Presser Foot, 12120 E-5. Feed Dog, 12105 E-5. Throat Plate, 12124 E-5. Thread recommended, 3 cord 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord 36 soft in looper. Number of stitches to the inch, 9. Average production per hour, 3 J/2 dozen. Stitching on Band (Operation 16) This operation consists of stitching a strip or band to the body of the combination garment over the joint of top and bottom. This us- ually is done on the outside of garment as it covers the joining stitches and makes a very neat belt effect. Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Banding Machine Style 16500 Z-80, equipped with pulling mechanism. Folder, 23295 E-80. Presser Foot, 16220 B-80. Feed Dog, 16505-88. Throat Plate, 16224-80. Thread recommended, 3 cord 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord 36 soft in looper. Number of stitches to the inch, 9. Average production per hour, 8 dozen. Hemming for Button Stay and Center Plait (Operation No. 17) This operation consists of turning inwardly the edges at center of garment and stitching with a single row of stitches as shown in the ac- companying seam construction. Standard Equipment: Single Needle Shuttle Stitch Machine. Average production per hour, 1 3 dozen. 72 Making Collar (Operation No. 18) Standard Equipment: Single Needle Shuttle Stitch Machine. Thread recommended, 3 cord 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord 24 soft in bobbin. Number of stitches to the inch, 9. Average production per hour, 4 dozen. Stitching on Collar (Operation No. 19) Standard Equipment: Single Needle Shuttle Stitch Machine. Thread recommended, 3 cord 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord 24 soft in bobbin. fe Number of stitches to the inch, 9. Average production per hour, 1 dozen. Felling Inside Leg Seam (Operation No. 20) See page 73 for Triple Stitching this operation. This operation consists of stitching the inside seam of legs start- ing at the bottom of one and running up across crotch and down the other leg to bottom. Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Two Needle Machine Style 12100 B-5. The same equipment as that specified for operation No. 1 5 is rec- ommended. Average production per hour, 5 dozen. Hemming Bottoms (Operation No. 21) Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Single Needle Machine, Style 1 1500G. Presser Foot, 1 1520 H for Y% or Yl inch hem. Feed Dog, I 1505 H. Throat Plate, 1 1 524 H. Attachment 23364. Thread recommended, 3 cord 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord 36 soft in looper. Number of stitches to the inch, 9. Average production per hour, 9 dozen. Triple Stitched Combination Work Garments We refer the reader to page 46 where the good qualities of the Triple Stitched seam are clearly explained. Obviously the one point of better appearance should be sufficient inducement for the manufac- turer to produce combination garments with triple stitched seams. Stitch Under Cnff Facings (Operation No. 1) Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Three Needle Machine Style 1 7100 C. Folder, 23331-9-7-64. Presser Foot, 17120 B-9. Feed Dog, 1 7105 C- 10. Throat Plate, 17124C-9. 73 Thread recommended, 3 cord 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord 36 soft in looper. Number of stitches to the inch, 9. Average production per hour, 45 dozen. Note This operation can also be accomplished very efficiently on one of our Side Wheel Cylinder Machines. Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Three Needle Machine, Style 31500B. Folder, 23367-9-7-64. Presser Foot, 31520C-9. Feed Dog, 31505 B-10. Throat Plate. 31524 B-9. Thread recommended, 3 cord 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord 36 soft in looper. Number of stitches to the inch. 9 Average production per hour, 45 dozen. Piecing Sleeves (Operation No. 2) Use the same equipment as that specified for Operation No. 1 Average production per hour, 9 dozen. Joining Tops to Bottoms of Each Side of Backs ( Operation No. 1 1 ) Note Operations Nos. 11, 12, 13 and 1 4 can all be done by one operator if desired. Use same equipment as specified for Operation No. 1 . Average production per hour, 1 2 dozen. Felling Center Back Seams (Operation No. 12) Use same equipment as specified tor Operation No. 1 . Average production per hour, 8 dozen. Joining Fronts and Backs at Shonlder Seams (Operation No. 13) Use same equipment as specified for Operation No. 1 . Average production per hour, 25 dozen. Sleeving (Operation No. 14) Use same equipment as specified for Operation No. 1 . Average production per hour, 2 Yl dozen. Felling Sleeves and Side Seams (Operation No. 15) Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Three Needle Machine, Style 31 500 B. Folder, 23367-9-7-64. Presser Foot, 31520C-9. Feed Dog, 31505 B-10. Throat Plate, 31524 B-9. Thread recommended, 3 cord 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord 36 soft in looper. Number of stitches to the inch, 9. Average production per hour, 3'/2 dozen. Felling Inside Leg Seam (Operation No. 20) Use the same equipment as specified for Operation No. 15. Average production per hour, 5 dozen. 74 75 J* co • o tit +-> T3 *-* 0) c d C (0 09 4-> CO co' c is 4-1 3 bo eo JO bo c o 1) a 03 bo g IS C 1 c — bO c be c '£ bo C be g c '£ CO a oil d s o (J 4-1 CO £ £ 13 "cu £ X O 4-( 4-1 CO CO CO < J2 O (0 .£ c CO CO V In a. en TT U"> vO OO o o ^_ as CO (0 <0 CO 4-> '5 o >> Oh O "eo 4W c C H c In s u c C 4-1 4-* J3 4-1 3 O CO In o c o In 0) CO •l-H -5 g 3 1) -5 c -J* a; o In U o In D In V4n C £ In "a In U M In u -a c (0 hJ T5 0) > 4) a JO bo c (0 bo c c bo In bo In be a bO 3 bO bo V4n o bo o bo In ■— bb c bo g c c c c CO 4-> c c bo _c c is g jC 12 IS IS 15 In a IS j£ c '> _5 o 'o u u o o o CJ '£ V o 4-1 a; 4-> 4-> — ' .■3 +J u 4-1 4-1 4-> 4-1 >_ 4-> 4-> CO GU CO CO CO CO CO 4J CO CO CO CO — (N m -^ in \0 ao o O 76 Description of Operations and Equipment For Children's Combination Overall and Jacket Stitching Red Binding To Pockets (Operation No. 1) This operation consists of stitching the strip or binding to tops of pocket parts, including all pockets in a bundle, without stopping. The finding is trimmed while it is being stitched. Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Single Needle Machine Class 15800 A. Binder, 23322 N-%. Feed Dog, 15805 F. Presser Foot, 1 5820 F. Throat Plate, 1 5824 C. Thread recommended, 3 cord 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord 36 soft in looper. Number of stitches to the inch, 1 0. Average production per hour, 45 dozen. Piecing Sleeves (Operation No. 2) This operation consists of stitching a piece to sleeves for econom- ical reasons. Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Two Needle Machine, Style 7500 B-4. Folder, 600-4-3-32. Feed Dog, 7405 B-4. Presser Foot, 198 A-4. Throat Plate, 7524 B-4. Thread recommended, 3 cord 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord 36 soft in looper. Number of stitches to the inch, 1 0. Average production per hour, 4 dozen. STYLE 15800 A. 77 Stitching Red Binding To Sleeves (Operation No. 3 ! See Operation No. I for equipment, etc. Average production per hour, 25 dozen. Stitching Pocket To Front (Operation No. 4) Standard Equipment: Single Needle Shuttle Stitch Machine. Number of stitches to the inch, 12. Thread recommended, 3 cord, 60. Average production per hour, 1 2 Yi dozen. Stitching Upper Center Front Seam (Operation No. 5) This operation consists of joining the two halves of the upper front. See Operation No. 2 for equipment. Average production per hour, 30 dozen. Stitching Lower Center Front Seam (Operation No. 6) See Operation No. 2 for equipment. Average production per hour, 30 dozen. Stitching On Red Front Band (Operation No. 7) This operation consists of folding and stitching the red galatea trimming or band to the front of garment, simultaneously joining the upper and lower part of fronts. Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Two Needle Machine, Style 16500 Z-80, equipped with pulling mechanism. Folder, 23328 H-80. Presser Foot, 16220 B-80. Feed Dog, 16505-80. Throat Plate, 16224-80. Thread recommended, 3 cord 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord 36 soft in looper. Number of stitches to the inch, 1 0. Average production per hour, 1 5 dozen. Stitching Center Plait To Back (Operation No. 8) This operation consists of folding and stitching a strip to back. Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Two Needle Machine. Style 16500 Z-80. Folder, 23328 H-80. Presser Foot, 16132-80. Feed Dog, 16505-80. Throat Plate, 16224-80. Thread recommended, 3 cord 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord 36 soft in looper. Number of stitches to the inch, 1 0. Average production per hour, 1 8 dozen. 78 UNION SPECIAL MACHINE CLASS 16500. "READY FOR BANDING" 79 Stitching Center Button Stay To Back (Operation No. 9) Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Single Needle Machine Style 6500 B. Presser Foot, 6520. Feed Dog, 9205 E. Throat Plate, 9224 E. Thread recommended, 3 cord 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord 36 soft in looper. Number of stitches to the inch, 1 0. Average production per hour, 1 8 dozen. Joining Fronts and Backs (Operation No. 10) See Operation No. 2 for equipment. Average production per hour, 25 dozen. ■ Sleeving (Operation No. 11) This operation consists of joining the sleeves to the body of gar- ment. See Operation No. 2 for equipment. Average production per hour, 6 dozen. Stitching Lower Center Back Seam Operation No. 12) See Operation Wo. 2 for equipment. Average production per hour, 30 dozen. Stitching On Red Back Band (Operation No. 13) This operation consists of stitching and folding red galatea band trimming to the outside, band of denim to the inside, and edge of gar- ment between. Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Two Needle Machine Style 16500 Z-80, equipped with pulling mechanism. Folder, 23295 E-80. Upper Folder, 23295 E-80. Lower Folder, 23293 D-80. Presser Foot, 16132-80. Feed Dog, 16205-88. Throat Plate, 16224-80. Thread recommended, 3 cord 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord 36 soft in looper. Number of stitches to the inch, 1 0. Average production per hour, 1 5 dozen. Hemming Sides Of Backs (Operation No. 14) Standard Equipment: Single Needle Shuttle Stitch Machine. Number of stitches to the inch, 10. Average production per hour, 25 dozen. 80 Hemming Sides Of Fronts (Operation No. 15) Standard Equipment: Single Needle Shuttle Stitch Machine. Average production per hour, 25 dozen. Felling From Cuff To Waist Line (Operation No. 16) This operation consists of joining the sleeve in tubular form and simultaneously joining sides of coat portion of garment. Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Two Needle Machine Style 12100 B-4. Folder, 601-4- 7-64. Presser Foot, 12120 E-4. Feed Dog, 12105 E-4. Throat Plate, 12124 E-4. Thread recommended, 3 cord 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord 36 soft in looper. Number of stitches to the inch, 1 0. Average production per hour, 8 dozen. Felling In And Out Seam (Operation No. 17) See Operation No. 1 6 for equipment. Average production per hour, 3 dozen. Hemming Bottoms (Operation No. 18) Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Single Needle Machine Style 1 1 500 G, making a narrow, sightly hem. Presser Foot, 1 1520 H for 3 /% or x /i inch hem. Feed Dog, 11505 H. Throat Plate, 1 1 524 H. Thread recommended, 3 cord 24 glazed in needle, 3 cord 36 soft in looper. Number of stitches to the inch, 1 0. Average production per hour, 1 2 dozen. Stitching Red Binding To Neck (Operation No. 19) See Operation No. 1 for equipment. Average production per hour, 1 8 dozen. Sewing Button-Holes (Operation No. 20) Standard Equipment: Button-hole Machine. Average production per hour, 625 holes. Attaching Buttons (Operation No. 21) Standard Equipment: Button Machine. Average production per hour, 870 Buttons. Tacking (Operation No. 22) Standard Equipment: Tacking Machine. Average production per hour, 500 tacks. 81 List of Operations On Khaki Trousers 1. Making fly. 2. Button-holes in fly. 3. Making and attaching 2 swing pockets, 1 back pocket, and 1 watch pocket and stitching two sides of front together at crotch. 4. Seaming and welting outside seams. 5. Seaming seat seams. 6. Seaming Inside Seams. 7. Hemming for cuffs. 8. Making belt loops. 9. Attaching inside band to top of trousers. Description of Operations and Equipment For Making Khaki Trousers Making Fly (Operation No. 1) Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Machine Style 6500 E. Folder, 23182 D. Presser Foot, 642 7 B. Feed Dog, 9705. Throat Plate, 9724 B. Thread Recommended, 3 cord 40 soft finish in needle, 3 cord 50 soft in looper. Number of stitches to the inch, 12. Average production per hour, 40 dozen. Fly Button-Holes (Operation No. 2) Standard Equipment: Button-hole machine. Average production per hour, 1 5 dozen. Making and Attaching Two Swing Pockets, One Back Pocket, and One Watch Pocket, Stitching Two Sides of Fronts Together At Crotch (Operation No. 3) Standard Equipment: Single Needle Shuttle Stitch Machine. Average production per hour, 24 dozen. Note — In case it is desired to finish pockets in the manner shown on page 22, this is done in a separate operation. Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Machine Style 1 5400 Q. Presser Foot, 1 542 7 G. Feed Dog, 15405 W. Throat Plate, 1 5424 J. Thread Recommended, 3 cord 60 silk finish in needle, 2 cord 50 soft finish in looper. Number of stitches to the inch, 1 3. Average production per hour, 9 dozen. The above equipment can also be used for serging flies if this is desired. 82 Seaming and Welting Outer Seams (Operation No. 4) This operation consists of seaming and simultaneously welting the outside seams and finishing pockets, etc. Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Single Needle Machine Style 6500 C. Folder, 23184. Throat Plate, K 33866. Presser Foot, K 33868 Feed Dog, K 33867. Thread Recommended, 3 cord 40 soft in needle, 3 cord 50 soft in looper. Number of stitches to the inch, 1 3. Average production per hour, 2 dozen. Seaming Seat Seams (Operation No. 5) Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Machine Style 6500 B. Presser Foot, 6520. Feed Dog, 9205 E. Throat Plate, 9224 E. Thread recommended, 3 cord 40 soft in needles, 3 cord, 50 soft in looper. Number of stitches to inch, 12. Average production per hour, 1 6 dozen. Seaming Inside Seams (Operation No. 6) See Operation No. 5 for equipment. Average production per hour, 1 dozen. Hemming for Cuffs (Operation No. 7) Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Machine Style 1 1 500 Z. No attachments. Other adjusting parts same as 1 1500 G. Thread recommended, 3 cord 40 soft in the needle, 3 cord 50 soft in the looper. Average production per hour, 50 dozen. Number of stitches to the inch, 12. 83 Making Belt Loops (Operation No. 8) Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Machine Style 6900 H. This machine will accommodate belt loops cut in short lengths. Furnished in 1 2 and 1 6 gauges. Thread recommended, 3 cord 40 soft in the needle. 3 cord 50 soft in the looper. Number of stitches to the inch, 1 3. Average production per hour, 2 I dozen. Attaching Inside Band To The Top Of Trousers, Simul- taneously Attaching Top End Of Loop (Operation No. 9) TROUSERS- <= WNVAS • -CURTAIN .BEUT LOOP Standard Equipment: UNION SPECIAL Two Needle Machine Style 16500Z-80 gauge. Equipped with pulling mechanism. Folder, K-2 7992. Presser Foot, 16220 B-80. Feed Dog, 16505-80. Throat Plate, 16224-80. Thread Recommended, 3 cord, 40 soft in the needle, 3 cord, 50 soft in the looper. Number of stitches to the inch, 12. Average production per hour, 33 dozen. Standard Table of Gauges No. 1 gauge 3-32 inch. No. 4 Yl gauge Y* inch. No. 2 gauge 1-8 inch. No. 5 gauge 9-32 inch. No. 3 gauge 5-32 inch. No. 5 Yl gauge 3-8 inch. No. 4 gauge 3-16 inch. No. 6 gauge 1 3-32 inch. For any gauge not shown in above table the following rule will prevail: Specify Gauges by 64ths of an inch For example: — If it is desired to have '/2-inch space between stitches, the number of the gauge would correspond to the number of the 64ths or 32. Likewise 24-inch width would be 48 gauge. 84 Comparative Test of Stitches and Seams EXTRACT FROM TECHNOLOGIC PAPER OF THE UNITED STATES GOVERNMENT BUREAU OF STANDARDS, NO. 96, ISSUED JUNE 25, 1917. Tensile Strength of Seams Test specimens 1 inch wide, 3 inches between jaws of testing ma- chines. 12-ounce Wool Uniform Cloth One Stitching , . strength Stitch Employed and Size of Seam Thread Cut at ■ Cutting of Threads Used Tests Center of Stitching Thread Specimen ** Shuttle Stitch Pounds Pounds Per Cent No. 36 upper thread, No. 36 under thread 1 1.2 3.5 68.7 Double-Locked Stitch: No. 36 upper thread, No. 36 under thread 23.7 23.7 None No. 36 upper thread, No. 70 Practically under thread 23.8 22.1 None No. 36 upper thread, No. 80 Practically under thread 24.2 22.8 None —"IT IS INTERESTING TO NOTE THAT EVEN THOUGH THE DOUBLE LOCKED SEAM WAS CUT OR BROKEN, IT WAS STILL STRONGER THAN THE UNCUT SEAM OF THE SHUTTLE STITCH." (Page 4, Paper 96.) U. S. Bur. of Stand. Remember: The words "Double-Locked Stitch" and Union Special are synonymous. The Double Locked Stitch Daily experience emphasizes the fact that the question of stitch is one of vital importance both to the manufacturer and the consumer. There are three distinct types of stitches: namely, ( 1 ) the chain stitch, (2) the shuttle stitch, (3) the Double Locked stitch, or the Union Special stitch. Upon examining the chain stitch we find it is formed of a single thread, one stitch being looped into another consecutively, the name being derived from the appearance of the under side of the stitch which resembles the links of a chain. This stitch may be used where there is little or no wear on the stitch. The weakness, as can readily be seen, lies in the fact that if a stitch is broken or the machine skips a stitch, all the stitches preceding it will unlock, one after another, and the seam with little or no strain applied to it, will come apart. This stitch is used to a small extent as compared with the other types. 85 Shuttle Stitch The shuttle stitch shown above is sometimes called the plain stitch and often spoken of as the lock stitch, though erroneously, because it in no way locks, for if one stitch is cut, the seam is weakened as the threads will easily ravel back at least a short distance, causing the seam to open. Hence, this stitch will be spoken of as the shuttle stitch, it being the stitch formed exclusively by means of employing a shuttle and bobbin. In examining the formation of the shuttle stitch we find it is a two-thread stitch composed of an upper thread called the needle thread and an under thread called the bobbin thread, the essential features of construction being that the bobbin thread is carried entirely through the extended loop of the needle thread thus placing or lapping the threads, one over the other, causing the two threads to act directiy one against the other. Double Locked Stitch In the DOUBLE LOCKED stitch, or UNION SPECIAL stitch shown above, we note an upper thread called the needle thread and 86 an under thread called the looper thread. The formation of the stitch is accomplished by the looper thread looping once DOUBLY through the needle thread loop and once around it. In this manner, the looper thread engages the needle thread TWICE every stitch. This peculiar formation prevents a slipping, loosening, or chafing of one thread against the other and not only in name, but in FACT, locks the stitch so that if one stitch is cut, there will be no raveling back or opening of the seam, and no weakening of it. This was conclusively proved in tests carried out by the United States Government. See page 84. Due to the fact that a shuttle is employed in making the shuttle stitch, the needle thread must pass through the eye of the needle many times in every inch of stitching while in the machines producing the Double Locked Stitch, a reciprocating eye pointed finger or LOOPER is employed, which necessitates the passage of the thread but once through the eye of the needle. Thus the thread is laid in the fabric without any impairment. This is impossible where a bobbin is used as the thread must pull through the needle several times before enter- ing the fabric. After the thread is embedded in the fabric in the case of the shuttle stitch, the strength of the seam must necessarily be that of the weaker thread minus the weakening caused by the seesaw ac- tion of the thread and chafing due to the tendency of one thread to sever the other. In the Double Locked Stitch the double engagement of threads at the point of joining obviates the direct action of one thread against the other when a strain is applied, thus the Double Locked Stitch has two distinct advantages over the shuttle stitch as regards the tensile strength (pulling strength) of the thread in that there is no chafing due to the thread being drawn several times through the needle and no chafing due to one thread acting directly on the other when a strain is applied. As to the consumption of thread, while a shuttle machine may use less thread to a yard of stitching, yet it is a well recognized prin- ciple that the greater the amount of thread in the formation of a stitch, the greater the elasticity. Again, the Double Locked Stitch uses an under thread from two to three sizes smaller than the needle thread which as far as cost is concerned, compensates for the greater amount of thread used. Further, with the shuttle stitch there is experienced a loss of thread when every bobbin runs out and in rewinding bobbins oftentimes they are wound defectively and the operator must cut the thread from them, thus losing all the thread on that bobbin, whereas in the Double Locked Stitch machines, the thread is drawn directly from the spools or cones. When everything is considered, the greater amount of thread used in the formation of the Double Locked Stitch is more than compensated for by the use of a smaller under thread and elimination of all waste which is incident to the use of bobbins. When the fact is taken into consideration that a bobbin contains but a very small amount of thread and must be refilled many times during the day, it will be readily appreciated that there is immense saving in the use of Union Special Machines by taking the thread di- rectly from the spools or cones and eliminating all the time consumed in handling the bobbins. 87 Another source of loss to the manufacturer is through seconds. If an operator makes a mistake or if say, the folder becomes displaced and leaves a raw edge and it is necessary to open the seam in case a shuttle stitch is used, at least every third thread must be cut and the pieces of thread removed from the fabric, whereas if a machine mak- ing the Double Locked stitch were employed, the operator has merely to unlock the stitch at one end, an extremely simple operation, and then draw the threads from the fabric, thus eliminating any possible chance of injuring the goods as is the case with the shuttle stitch. The question might properly arise in one's mind that if the stitch can be unlocked and easily raveled, will it not do so of its own accord when a stitch is broken. The answer is emphatically, NO! The reason is that due to the formation of the stitch there is no possibility of the stitch becoming unlocked, whether broken or not. In other words, an outside agency must unlock the stitch thus eliminating all possible chance of the stitch becoming opened and then raveling due to wear, washing, cutting or breaking. To any statement to the effect that the ability to unravel the Union Special stitch when needed, is a detri- ment, we answer that our stitch might be likened to the combination of a safe — it can only be opened if you know the combination. Thus we find that the Double Locked stitch has many advan- tages over the shuttle stitch, namely, there is no chafing of one thread by the other and no chafing of one thread against the other after be- ing applied to the fabric. If a stitch is broken there is no resultant opening of the seam as in the case of the shuttle stitch, the seam is of greater elasticity and responds to strain without breaking. Damage to goods likely to result from ripping out the stitch is entirely elim- inated by the use of the Double Locked stitch. Cost of production is reduced because the thread is taken directly from the spools or cones, eliminating all loss of operator's time in handling bobbins. As to comparative strength of the two seams, the test on page 84 made by the United States Government speaks for itself. On June 24, 1917, the Bureau of Standards of the U. S. Department of Commerce, issued technologic paper No. 96 in which is set forth the relative merits of the shuttle stitch and the Double Locked stitch, stating, "Tests made with a variety of fabrics, thread sizes, and types of test specimens have shown that seams made with the Double Locked stitch are stronger and are less weakened by thread breaks than seams made with the shuttle stitch." Everything considered there can be no doubt that the Double Locked stitch is the ideal stitch to be employed in the manufacture of shirts whether high grade silk shirts or work shirts, for in silk shirts elasticity is desired, and in work shirts great strength is needed. 88 *#•'« ' 6 e * * << •.••• Home of Union Special Machine Co. 400 N. Franklin St., Chicago, U. S. A. When in Chicago, make it a point to visit our Factory and Display Room, located close to the center of town. By using the key to Railroad Stations and Prominent Hotels given on oppo- site page, you can estimate the distance any of these are from our factory. For example, the Hotel LaSalle (A) at LaSalle and Madison Sts., is only Yl mile from our front door. RAILROAD STATIONS 1. Chicago & North Western; 2. Union Station; 3. Grand Central; 4. LaSalle St. Station; 5. Polk St. Station; 6. Illinois Central; 7. Graham & Morton Steamers; 8. Goodrich Steamers. HOTELS — A. La Salle; B. Sherman; C. Fort Dearborn; D. Auditorium; E. Congress; F. Blackstone; G. Plaza; H. Drake; I. Virginia; J. Randolph; K. Mor- rison; L. Palmer House. X. New Field Museum. 89 MAP SHOWING LOCATION OF UNION SPECIAL MACHINE COMPANY'S MAIN OFFICE, FACTORY AND DISPLAY ROOMS "Six Minute's Walk from the Loop." N LAKt M I c H i q AIN . 90 WATCH YOUR STITCH! See that it is "Double Locked." See that the proper threads are used. Use a small thread in the looper. A small looper thread makes the strongest seam. A small looper thread makes an attractive seam. A small looper thread cuts your cost figures. In a Union Special, there are no bobbins to wind, Union Special Machines are Quality Machines. V* • c*-. - . LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 014 064 443 2 lis HI £&?3 H • ''■''•". ■ ■ B H HDEj