' . \^ \* COPYRIGHT S. G. WEILER 1915 The Weiler Ladies Tailor — Dressmaker Designer, Cutter and Fitter Book PUBLISHED BY S. G. WEILER DESIGNER MILWAUKEE g | f t £ I | I 1 a a i C: r :c i l I II '- r i I P I iWW Iffl MAY -7 1915 CI.A398733 PROFESSOR S. G. WE1LER [k |Z^±ve ^VVeiler IiVcrtr>xctorl | The Weiler Block First Patents applied for in the United States, Canada and Europe. The Prize designing, cutting and fitting personally done by Mr. Weiler with Awards. hj s own method, has unconditionally been awarded First Prize Gold Medals, Diploma and Cup of Honor at the 1912-1913 Inter- national Exhibitions in London, Paris, Rome, Brussels and Bar- celona. Safe, The Weiler method will prove a great boon to Dressmakers, Ladies' Sure, Tailors, Designers, Cutters and Fitters, regardless of practical ex- Easy. perience or working knowledge, as it simplifies matters, making the work safe, sure and easy. Remark- Tailoring has been my sole occupation since a mere boy of twelve. able For twelve consecutive years I have been actively associated with Results leading ladies' tailors, and, any of these concerns, as well as the Attained. scores of satisfied clients 1 am serving in my own establishment. will gladly testify to the remarkable results attained with ease and accuracy by my simple method. Weiler I am a tailor and cutter possessing a thorough knowledge of every Has phase of the ladies' tailoring profession. I have studied the most Unusual advanced systems in tailors and cutters' academies, and in my own Ability. high class ladies' tailoring establishment, where the lowest price is sixty dollars and the average for suit or long top coat is seventy-five dollars, / person, illy do all the designing, cutting and fitting — the success of which is eloquently proved by hundreds of unsolicited letters of sincere praise. Is not this e\ idence of unusual ability." Tailor, My book and block from the standpoint of the dressmaker, the tail- C titter, ei / t j ie cu tter, the designer and fitter, must become invaluable be- Designer, cause it estaD lishes a complete understanding of each other, in a N tt6r 'w k sense ' P ermittin £ A11 to work as ° ne ' ex P ellin S the customary inHarmony waste of time tnrou S n misunderstanding, and assuring rapid, safe and sane results. Lightens Both the tailor and cutter readily assume a knowledge of design- ee Task. ing by my plain method, and, thus the world's oldest vocation- tailoring — is improved to a degree which positively eliminates er- rors and lightens the task. 'leven lv >•• . ' ■ :• - ••■■•:.'■■■•: '*•*.,'';,, ■:•• v ;•';..:,' V'-.-. >; .-■..;•.'•' "''^..si Mastered It matters not whether you arc- working for yourself, or employed in >i by others, or a cutter in need of designing yon may now be- ' er y come accomplished in the same within a very short space ot time. I he- Cutting Block is completed with all large and small sizes and you can operate ii skillfully alter a couple ot hours' practice. 'rime. Graduated I o bother with system is unnecessary, because the block is gradu- for Any ated to meet any size, however large or small, so that yon need only ' Vw '-'- 1 '- locate the proper number for dress, coat, sleeves, waist or skirt. The sleeves will lit into the armholes, the underskirt with the top-skirt and shoulder with shoulder in a faultless manner. ll ^Jve "We Hear iK^trMctor] L r — — ■ ~ . ...■- ; — , . .. ,...., — r— — — — ilr- y*. : — - — i 1 The Weiler Block Designing | have also perfected a new designing plate in miniature size, ,' //( ' which insures a normal 36 measure. By laying this plate on a ''"'"■ s sheet of paper and drawing a line around it, in a minute's notice I. nst outers. . , , ,; .,, . ,. II- 1 you produce a form ot Coat, Skirt or Dress, sketching lor the cus- tomer any front or back view she may desire to see. It you do not yourself do the sewing, hand this little sketch to your tailor or dressmaker, and he w ill see xet ^ ■ ■;. ",_.•.":• ". ■ '■■ . - - '. .-:"'■.■' "";;'!.''■ .'• .... m\- ■' ■,, ••■ ■ .--• ■,■■;■' .■•'■■-■ ■; .••,.;•.■ '■■ ; I Cold Medals Roma I'll f I .old Medali P»n 1013 ; \ Cold M.-.l.il Pan 191 ' i Gold Medal I mii. i .[i 1913 tik Cold Medali Barcelona 1912 Medal Btuuel 1912 Gold medals awarded to S. G. Weiler, designer, 1912 and 1913 in the Enter national Exhibition, Paris, London, Rome, Brussels and Barcelona for design ing, cutting and fitting of lirst class ladies' garments. Page s '< << Z5*±v jfc -••-. £>&&£&• ! >' *•' > V "'- IS ' ■' ^VV^e ile jr Ixv tr\ccto *>1 ff] ¥ CONTENTS // ;, / Use the Weiler Block. Page Block of Skirts and Dress Sleeves 24 Block of Coats or Waists, Tailored Sleeves ami Designing Blocks 25 1 nstruction Measurements for Tailors and Dress Makers Js 1 low to use the same measurement on the W eiler Block 29 Cutting System for Waist 50-31 The New Finished Block without Cutting System 32-33 A complete Single Breasted Semi-fitted Tailored Coat >4-.v ; System for Sleeves 36-3! The New Tailored Sleeve Block Without System 58-39 Complete Finished Sleeve W)-41 Dress and Waist Sleeve System 42-4o The New Dress Sleeve Block without System 44-45 Waist or Dress Sleeve 46-47 Skut System 4S-4 l > The New Skirt Blocks without System 50-51 Finished Skirt 52-53 Cutting, Fitting and Tailoring Section. Fitting of ladies' Garments 54-55 Cutting 56 Tailoring ;_ Lining and Trimming - s Different Styles of Garments 59 H :. t C'nt Different Styles of If, lists. Tailored Coats, Sleeves, Skirt and Capes. Plain Waist 60-61 Shirt and Shirt Waist J-63 Apron 64-65 Fitted Waist 66-67 Waist with Seam from Shoulder to Bust Front 68-69 Waist Front Shoulder with Seam. Baek without 70-71 \ Complete Tailored Coat. Hip measure 40 inches 72-73 Waist Front and Baek with Seam 74" ; Panel Front and Panel Baek Tailored Coat 76-77 1 Jit fitted Waist 78-79 Finished Coat, tight fitted hack. Semi-fitted front 80-81 - Riding Habit Coat. Hip measure 4(1 inches ^2-8.^ Raglan Style Waist 84-85 Raglan Stj le Overcoat 86-8 Instruction for Kimono Style Front and Back 88-89 Kimono Sleeve Coat. Dress or Waist, without shoulder scams 90-91 Extra large si/e Tailored Coat 92-93 Diagram showing 52 Bust and 62 Hip, Finish Coat 94-95 How to Cut Different Sleeves. Plain Tailored Sleeve 96 Tailored Sleeve with front Seam turned in 98-99 Plaited Sleeve 100-101 Rafflan Sleeve 102-103 // :. t i Ciil .inJ Make Different Capes. ~> Cape without Shoulder seam 104-10: Cape with Shoulder seam 106-107 High Collar Cape 108-109 How to Cut Different Skirts. Skirt Back and Front 110-111 Skirt without Side Seam 112-113 Panel Front and Panel Back 114-11 Seven piece Skirt 116-1 1/ Plaited Skirt 118-119 Riding Breeches 120-121 Ridine Habit Skirt 122-123 i How to Design With the JVeiler Block. Designing Suit and Long Coat Designing Dress Finished Designing '26 nty-three ^C5 S ! — -■■■.."-•■•■--■■*■ ■■ ■.■--■ ■-.:?.■ ---.■■■ •.' • :: -- ■■•-•.-■•■■"•••■"'•■•■••'■"~ 7 7Ke WeilefliVcPt E - ■ - ■ - • * ' j^>x o i: .V .'. : .. ^1 Block of Skirt and Dress Sleeve The two top methods show the front .uul back oi skirt block which is made from 56 to 62 hip measure. Pick out the even numbers according to the hip meas- ure, connect together .\nA make the skirt as long as de- sired. The other method shows a dress or waist sleeve block which is made from 32 to 52 inches bust measure. l.a\ this block on any part ol the paper and pick out the even numbers and connect together and the dress sleeve is read} , 1 ook at page 2 ' - in r'Jty*Xf&?-i < ;-.',.' fc&f Weiler Iiy^rtrMctor Block of Coat or Waist, Sleeve and Designing Block The top method shows the front and hack of coat or waist, 32 to 52 bust measure. The block on the lower left side shows a perfect sleeve from 32 to jii.-»»4 52 bust measure. The sleeves tit into the armholes perfectly. The right side is a tailored suit that is a designing model and from which you can design any other styles. The center cut shows a dress model. To be used same way as the suit model. Look page 2 i . Pagi Twenty-five « v.--.-^.S--^--»:. ■■.-■:. ■■■■ .- ■-■•■--., •■. •:-•■ - ■■•.. . f . --■ - ■-■■?■■- ■ -■ ■.■^-..■.-^.r-^^-^t^v.r-.-- .^.i^ S" - V " " -- - , ^ ' . - ■ _--"."- ^ " ■ • . ; . • Instructions The Weiler Block is arranged with a size scale of 32 to 52 bust. The Sleeves are the same. Skirts range from 36 to 62 hip measure. For the Coat, the center back to center front should be on an even line with the dip oi the armhole. Draw a straight line across your cutting paper and lay the block, thereon, so that the two straight lines under the armholes are directly opposite each other. Now locate the number for your width of bust and mark through the dotted holes with your pencil point, being careful not to mark the wrong numbers. Remove the block when you have placed all the proper dots, and connect same. Thus you will have finished the arrangement without that unpleas- ant strain caused by systems, as they are complicated and uncertain. My block enables you, with utmost ease and safety, to quickly draft loose or tight fitted garments, Long Coats, Raglans, Dresses. Kimo- nos. Skirts, Sleeves, Aprons or any type of Sporting Garments. By merely devoting slight attention to my simple instructions, you will become agreeably surprised at the remarkable results. Should you have any style or figure which is not normal, take the correct measurements and use as shown in instruction book on next page. -- V<- — z^±v ■ f . - - - m "VX^e-ll^rr IiycPtrxi cto x» M : : — 1 1 f ; ; : _ wJ A - ^ Measure nu ts i 1 a I s sabs - iccess - s . - - - - - ?samt ? block i j - that is " ■-■".■- - 1 \v - ■~ e '- ■ - ; 'QU I BB'- ^ ■ : - - - - : • s 4 • •---- - - ; -♦-- • • : . - 3AO : ^:n m This shows how to use the measurements on the block Follow diagrams closely. See the fitting section. -nine UlZTlve Wei ler I rv cT> It :r >j: o t c: l ■ : — iir ~~: t~ ~ — : — hy - -. ■ - -. - i ■ - - -. -..■■■■ — *S Cutting System for Waists ^ . . iere st - - 51 g r norm; ersizes ntal lin« - ss the top - Uel liiw - n ck g the bust measure. On I - -allel 1 . n the fi On back line g - The 5 s stleng G in at top i back 2 ches n this g tip inch. On lint ^ 1 7 ches On line - g iches On line 7 a iches n top end t g ; iches, and d : iches leek. On mt line g iches ont lengi - Q incite On leng - a in 1 inch anc. le sa ne in Use p • . . . \ irh the >ack le 4 g - c he?. it nhole depdi ■ S \ . . - - cross eat - - g un. ... :te the under armh -: . • g i 7 iches n 7 g iches N - . inch from each sidt . and con: ect as s g am. _ id see the d Serence : this stem curt 12 :k , .'.•' ■'« 'V"- >i 1 1 1 > 1 "Weiler IiVtTtrMct * P* I 3*3 : ' • ■? : ' y ' - •'.'- "■'-■ ■:' \ ■'" ; '"'I' -| v'''''' ' "■■-'■ •■" "■...:• •'■'>■■•■':•■'."■ v ■•'-' ■-.•••' V.'^'.v .'•;.;•■' i Thirty-one ^ The New Finished Block without Cuttting System This diagram shows how the Weiler Block may be adjusted for large or small sizes, from 32 to 52 bust measure. To complete size of any kind of coat or waist, mark through all the numbers which correspond with your bust measure, and join together. All sizes are obtained in the same way. The instruction book tells how to make any style of coat or waist. Page Thirty-two :£ ^ile^rr* IiVcPt rxcctorl l * . : '/.'.' • i ■:"'■. ■ m Page Thirty-three > Mzy±v frr ■••••• - -•■ ^ ± :k?aj: o t: . <■ . A Complete Single Breasted Semi Fitted Tailored Coat This diagram shows that any style of tailored coat can easily be made with the Weiler Block. See pages 74, 75, 76, 77 of instruction book. Allow two inches on front for buttons and button holes. For double breasted coat two inches extra. Look how the collar is designed on the neck. . \ t.<.* y^; 1 ; % rfm^^&m&^^M^^m&m-k^^^m?.^ • ■ 'Weiler Irc■■ -■■••■- .. ':.>"-:. , ;<.*..t-.' ■-•'■■ ■'.■■- '^-- •■ ■ ■•■■ ' /a System for Sleeve. With this Mr. Weiler made his block, from 36 down to 32, and up to ?>2. It produces a perfect fitting armhole, when size of same corresponds w ith bust size. Draw a horizontal line across the top. From beginning of this, draw a parallel line down the side. On top line go in l " _» inches, which is | . of bust measure plus ! 2 inch. Divide top line in half. Go down on same 2 l / 2 indies, 3j |. 5 ' j and 13^4, which is the location of elbow, now go down to 23, or any length desired for sleeve. Draw a straight line put from each of the above numbers, as shown on diagram. Connect the ' ■ on top with line S l /2 on front. On this little pointed line go up I ' . inches, to about T 4 inch above the 2' _> line. On line 2 come hack 1 inch from front. On line 3] \ come back ; 4 inch and 4- ; j inches. This is the end o[ under sleeve which comes together with cnA o\ top sleeve line 2 [ _•. On line 13] . come backward from front 2' , and 7 inches. On bottom in front, ^o backward J- ; j inches, and on tliis go up ' 2 inch. From _- ; ; go backward 4 inches and 5 2 inches. Connect all the parts as shown on diagram. ^ g»5i •'•:-':''•;- .'. ■..■.-... .^'.^/■•■....•.■>- •■■'"■.■•.■•' '■•■■.. &«£&*• ■ £?.»#; ■.' : --:-,v-t : . -i^*. v *»&. Page Thirty-neve i The New Tailored Sleeve Block without Cutting System. As for the coat front and back, mark through the numbers which correspond with the bust size. Connect all the pencil dots, and the sleeve is ready. Follow instructions in the book, and all kinds of sleeves may be made to properly tit into the armhole. Page Thirty-eight i^y^-sy-'j-a-i-vy.-''. 'k^-.-v^-v ->\ : -:---- '-'- ■•-.. - -;t«'- 1 - ■■>.-~- /•*'-':■?■?>>. -.'. w^'s*-*^-^-^'?'.?^-" WeilerliVcrtr ot Page Thirty-nim MZJK e Weil ef Irvy> -■-; •V'K'-'.y ~ . ';*■**<■ A» I Pa<7e Forty-three p |gy±ve "W^eiler Irv«s> t:t>>j: o tori 1] l^j> V ■'-■;;>■;..■• . ". : • ,'.-■• "••• ' -••.■ ■•'■• ■:"•■■'"- ■ ? "M'-l l 7 , ^-'v :..•-. ..^ ; ;.^-.-.^v;^v>-^-sv"^vrV -:.•;■ ' V> ;» V- ;..;•.•" ' ,; ft > The New Dress Sleeve Block without System. On the side parallel line, the cloth including the top of sleeve, always lavs folded double, but the bottom can be made as long or wide as the stvle demands. For fancy dress or waist, always change the length and \\ idth on sleeve bottom. I iy-four 3K m&z. z*&m$& ■- vwi&vj. ;*.*•'. .«.'-•■> -•■■■■■ -v "VJV-* Fa^e Forty- fire V^-^- - .: ' -.'.■■•■---■•■>■•-■, ■■:■•-'-••■ -■■••:-■- -. r '>i|. -. v. ftw^gsS-;;^: v:.;^-.:'' -.*•'.. ^-s^P y .W. •■ -■ ■ ■ .'.- ■•■■-.-v.*--.,-- -■. -I'--' ■.■■"■-- : | | ,X^..^^-..;<^-.^'^.v';v*..>.--.->' '■-.,- '" -" --'^ WZT±ve ^V\^eiler Itvj:ctor| J] jfa__ _ — - — ! — ; — : — ;___ , % *^ Waist or Dress Sleeve This sleeve is usually made in halt or three-quarter length. The style of this sleeve being shorter than ordinary, may be made I ' ■ or 2 inches larger on bottom than the block allows. The top is stationary. This sleeve is always cut in one piece. In placing sleeve in armhole, the sleeve seam must go for- ward 1 inch from the under armhole coat seam. Forty-six t: r\x o to r ~ J*»> , : -' 'I -f .r : ^V-' , ''^^ ; ^^\\ : ;;'^V>;---;; ■ -, :•-" r ;-V ■.;;" ". " - El /'r/i/r- Forty-St p l^ive "Weilear Iiv^lrrox o to g] §] Skirt System. With this diagram, Mr. Weiler in.uk- his block in 36 to 62 lip measure. Draw a horizontal line across the top. From this draw a parallel line down the side. Go down on side, 2-vj , 3] >, 7' _., I I ' _• inches, and continue to the length of skirt. On top go in one-half your hip measure, and from here come backward 4-' i inches and connect with 3J/4 inches. Divide in halt, and go down ] j inch to get your regular top 1 ine. From .i 1 .. go in one-half your waist measure, plus ' _• inch, which equals 6'_. inches. From 4 ; | come forward one-half your waist measure, less 1 inch, which equals 5] _. inches. On line 11' go in one-half hip measure, plus l /> inch. Come forward on same line from back, one-half hip meas- ure, less ! 2 inch, foin both of these together. On line 7 1 __■ go forward % inch. Line 1 1 ' _., on side seams go backward ' 4 inch. Cut out ' s inch from between the two side seam lines, but onl\ if skirt is made with side seam. Connect 4- ; j with line 1 1 ' _■ on back. Draw a parallel line to the desired length of skirt. Connect all the parts as shown on diagram. Page Forty-eight m8P&*f&&&M "..-:■" ' S ??PM &.*%3*fe8ft "-''. S * ' i lzy±v "WeH-err* iiVcPtr-uot m lIEU] /'(/(/.' Forty-nine | |gy±ve t: rox etc Weiler I 1 The New Skirt Blocks without System This shows the front part of skirt in 36 to 62 hip measure. Merelj mark through the numbers which correspond with the hip measure and join the dots together. Make the skirt to length desired. U' < ..:->'. :■:,-■- :r- ■■,- '•■-.**;■?:- ■ ?-">- ^- :V, ,-;.:- — "^ ^i__ - — __ — i , — i m The New Skirt Blocks without System This shows the back part of skirt, which is made in the same way as front. Join front and back together to make any kind of skirt with or without side seam. Fifty-one i^ ./>'; • ■ iJti __ a , ■' ' -■ Mil E ZT±v^ Weilef IiVcT tr\icto gj lj Finished Skirt This shows you a complete skirt panel hack, and panel front, with or without side seam. Four additional inches are required for any kind of seam or plait on the hack. See pages 28 and _ ,( ' of instruction hook. ! &&'£'**?*&&*&. ft ; -^ . ;: - ; -:-7^--. :.'. : -^.'.;:'^.r' ; .Wvv..;^ l '«, -';>'■-:-'• ot _J^ Pace Fl fhi-lli i Fitting of Ladies' Garments. If you do the fitting, and have the sewing done by others, when an altera- tion is required, call the tailor into the fitting room and show him what changes are needed. I his will enable him to easily understand how to make the altera- tions. There is \\o titter or s\ stem in the world, however expensive, that can always guarantee perfection oi tit, without a try-on. It a lady's figure is not normal, it is impossible to tit her properly without a try-on. 1 he teacher or salesman oi am system, who claims it can be done, misrepresents. \ll of the so-called systems invariably requite one or more fittings — for a normal figure, and by taking into consideration the large number of misfits, you can judge tor yourseli that the systems are not sate. Make all the garments yon can, because practice and experience w ill make you a perfect fitter of any type of figure. Most mistakes can easily be corrected it the garment is placed on the per- son so that it hangs evenlj at both sides. In this way, should the figure not be regular, you can see w hich side to take in and which to let out, wherever neces- sary. Also follow the same plan on the shoulders, in order to see which is the cor- rect line for any figure. Fitting Knowledge of System. \ ou know fitting is the principle featute in the making of a garment. Ho you not recall that often times when you ha\ e made two suits tor the same person, one would tit perfectly, while the other proved to be a complete misfit. This has been the experience of most cuttets and is proof positive that systems cannot be relied upon. My Block does away with all uncertainty. It has a size seale of 52 to 52 bust, w ith corresponding sleeve sizes. 1'he si/e seale oi Skirt Block is 36 to (12 hip measure. If you wish to use the odd numbers, whieh are not show n on the Block, take those numbers nearest to \ our bust measure, and cut your pattern latget or smaller accordingly. Plaee the odd numbers between the numbers on the block. My Block guarantees the perfect lines. Any si/e and style can be made from the same. As each person has a different figute, be sure to take the measure eare- fully, and use same as directed on pages 28 and 20 oi insttuction book. I'his will show you how to obtain the correct si/e and position. If the front is high, the measure w ill be more. Should the person be larg- er or smaller than normal, this book will show you everything according to cor- rect measures on pages 28 and 20. Prominent, high bust, makes large front, and smallet across the back. Hol- low front makes large back. When back is round, the front shoulder part is shorter, the back shoulder part longer, and it is always hollow aeross the chest between the two shoulder fronts. With the correct length, width and measures, and proper attention to the fitting, everything can be made perfectly. p| |Z^±ve Weiler ItVc$>tr\ictori Fitting of Ladies' Garments. If the garment has no seam on the center back, for a person with round back, shape it in the tailoring. Press the center back round and shrink the same on both sides. Hold in the back shoulder slightly more than for a normal coat. Always baste the sleeves in for fitting, so you can see the proper elbow and full length. Mark the sleeve on the right place, because if it is set too far backward, when the wearer moves her arms forward the sleeves will bind and the arm- hole will cut, while the back will wrinkle and appear too small. If the sleeve is set in too far forward, the same trouble will occur with the front. Always place the sleeve in the armhole, according to the person's build. Do not finish the collar for fitting, because if the shoulder needs chang- ing there will thus be needless extra work. Merely pin a canvas collar on the coat for fitting and shape it to the neck. Finish your collar after the fitted canvas, and place on the neck as specified by the marks. Wide sailor or fancy collars are made the same way, but larger or smaller, as the styles demand. If the waist line is too long, you can easily alter it by raising up the back of the shoulder. If the waist line is short, just reverse this rule. If the coat falls away at the bottom in front, you can fix it by raising up the front shoulder, but make the armhole deeper in same proportion, so it will not be too high. If armhole is too deep, it seriously affects the fit of coat, as it doesn't permit the person to raise her arm high enough. This alteration can be made by rais- ing the shoulder to the necessary degree. When coat is raised at top, let down a like amount at bottom, and bust point. If the lapels stand out too much, do not attempt to work them in, as certain kinds of material will not stand it. Lapels can be made any length desired, if you have the collar in the right location, because the set of the collar affects the length and shape of the lapel. If the top lapel is too high, from raising too much on shoulder, cut down the top lapel on neck portion, and put the collar on accordingly. Skirt Fitting. It is very important to place the skirt on the person so it hangs evenly on both sides. This permits you to see where the figure is not normal, and take in or let out wherever necessary on the seam. However, be careful not to al- low the skirt to lose its lines. Always cut the skirt length to the floor, then mark evenly all around the bottom, at the proper distance from floor to obtain the length of skirt which customer desires. Waist line can be made in any height to suit you. If high waist line is preferred, put the belt around the person's waist, and finish the skirt onto the same. Page Fifty-fiv< U^ — : , . ■ ., ■■;■■■•■ ■. ;••,.•• • ; 'l 1 . v ■■ ■■■j--s\-.:. -••-■•■■• ■ •• •■••-• ::v:— :-;■:.- •;..•.-• ->.^ Cutting Before cutting broadcloth, velvet, plush and all fabrics that have a nap. sec that the nap is smoothed down. Velveteen should be cut v\ ith the nap up. Material having no nap can be cut either way. However, for striped material, place your pattern so that stripes match perfectly on back, front, sleeve, top collar and facing. When using silk, if you do not cut each part of coat and skirt the same way, the finished garments will vary in shade. 1 o a\ oid trouble when working on the garments, be sure to sponge woolen and cotton cloths thoroughly before cutting. Also sponge thoroughly the canvas, interlining and tape. Allow desired width for seams on shoulder, side seam, neck and bottom. -■ [tvw v ■■.fii ■:■■■;.'■■* .•■■■• t -'.:v?-y;.'-:- :v n ;/.u-;^a><.*^-> ■:. ••■■•^.■.• , ••--•., ■■•-'■-■'■■ 'At ^ IZJKe WeileFliv^trMctorl l L' ' . ill — i - * fr£ :'■-. ' -'••■;: '■■-.-■ •."■•■" - -'■' ' -' ' •• V-V ' ■' -i ■■■•:■. • ■ ; ^'V^" i .-^v ■••■-•■ ■ ) .i'-. : i» : .-v;rv-j -V^y'^ " - -' ."V -:,;■■.' V'^'av'?^^ Tailoring Shape the coat collar straight or round, according to the ladies' figure. Shape the collar round for a stout figure, so that when the lady stands erect, the coat will not wrinkle across the back. For slender figure and long neck, make the collar perfectly straight. For a regular tailored coat, the center back on the waist line must be well shaped with the press iron. All the inside seams should be stretched rather than clipped, so the garment can easily be enlarged if necessary. For high bust figure, the edge of waist line should be well stretched. If the cloth will not give enough, cut the canvas on the front waist line about 6 inches deep, and spread it about I inch, to make room for an extra piece of canvas, which should be placed in such a way as to cause the waist to shape in properly under the bust line. Always set the sleeve in the back part of armhole a little short. Mold the front sleeve on the shoulder part so it will be a little full. Sew the canvas together exactly the same way as the cloth. Canvas seams on front must match perfectly with top cloth seams. Always sew the under collar by hand, because if the canvas is stitched to the cloth by machine, the sewing thread will break while being stretched. Silk lining cannot be pressed while damp. Never put the jacket lining in too snug, because the outside of coat will show it. Join the different parts of the coat together evenly at the waist line, in order to effect the true balance. The collar on the shoulder seam part should always be set in slightly fuller than on other parts of neck. Always set in a little full the second front at bust point, and stretch to a like degree, the same portion on waist line. Join the skirt seams together evenly, otherwise the skirt will wrinkle. If the skirt has plaits, tape them on the inside, to prevent the skirt from flaring out. Patjc Fifty-seven N lZT±v^ Weilef IrVcy^liJ^Aj: o to x»| tj Linino" and Trimming To cut plain lining, lay the pattern any way excepting: on the bias. When using striped lining, see that it matches perfectly at center hack, front and sleeves. Place plait on center back lining. Allow plenty of lining so that if coat should be too small, the seams, and bottom, may be let out. Use rather a little extra lining than not enough. Cut front canvas straight. Cut second front and bust point can- \ as on the bias. Bottom of sleeve likewise. For under collar, cut the canvas as much bias as possible, so the collar can be stretched round as wanted. The under lining for coat and sleeve must be cut the way the cloth runs. For Skirt. Cut the skirt placket straight, and sponge all the braid before sewing im to the skirt. ;/7l t k lZ^±ve AVeiler Irv^,:^:,>, TT^J Plain Waist. 1 w:\ size of waist or coat made the same way, take meas- urement from eoiitcr back of neck, over the shoulder, the highest part of bust, where you see the heavy line, ,\nd A We will now draw a line 2} 2 inches in to meet letter A. Repeat this from B to C on waist line. Front length B is always the same as the measurement. The sleeve front seam for all sizes should he 2 inches for- ward, from the under armhole seam. From B to C is J . inches. Place an under armhole side seam on waist line 2 x /> inches forward, and continue the same to D of waist measure Mid plus J inches. ? ■••-. ^'f.^:.-^''»;;:T.'?r^.- ■v.- : ^.y,v. HE ■'v«. ■'?V:>'' , .-'!!/,.n.*'.,- t .V. , ;f. ■;; •V K ':\>>^ < --"V'-Vi Page Sixty-one JS?.-v ■■ -' ... ■ ■•'.•■ ■---. ■•••■■ ■•.■•••••""'- •'■•••■■'•-" -Ifi M lzy±ve Weilef IiVcT trxicto i?j lj ^i_ __^ — — — i : — . • ** Shirt and Shirt Waist. To cut a shirt or shirtwaist, we locate on the block the size of bust measurement, and draw a line around exactly the same as for a coat. At hack of neck on the dot, and front of neck on the dor, And all around the armhole, go in J inches, as shown on the dia- gram. From the waist line on the center of hack, go out 2 inches and run the line down to the desired length of garment. For an extra large shirt, locate the dot at bottom of waist line, then go 1 ! _> inches back from the same, and connect the un- der armhole point with the enlarged portion, which will get the shirt 6 inches larger. The shirt can be buttoned on the shoulder or in the front. Front, back and sides should all be the same length from the waist line to the bottom. - ' 1-tlCO Sg^,-^:^>^o.^vv^^ "W^il^rr lrv*r»1r:r»Aj:c? t •■v-;.^.,:"- r- , \^l',-^.x>-:-^^^^ ; .-.;;y^v^^ "-- •"'■-: ■■■- : -' V>*^/:'Uv §^E I I'mjc Sixty-three p lZ^lve Weileflivcrtrvctor0 Apron. For the apron, we proceed the same as for shirt. If the apron is to fit snugly, the waist line remains natural. It wanted one-half form fitted, trace 1 inch in, all around the neck and ' _• on armhole. If wanted loose, 2 inches around the neck, and an inch on armhole. Make the apron any length, hut the top should always re- main the same. For loose apron make larger also on back waist line and under armhole, side seam. Button in front or on shoulder. To include pockets, always go down 12 inches from under armhole and S inches forward from the side seams. Sirty-four ^ •--r-..?:- ' ■■ ■• as i M I p Fitted Waist. Any kind of fitted coat or waist can be made from this >.han. When the patterns arc laid out, and the lines made. measure the bust height from center back oi neck over the shoulder to the trout. Draw in a straight line from the bust height point, then go in on this line 2] _ inches, now continue on same line to the -> ; inches, from which point go inch higher up. From bottom oi waist length in front, go in same distance • inches as at the bust height line. Also come forward from under armhole waist line _ : _ inches, and now you have 5 inches Take in one-half the space that remains between the first and the last 2lj inch spaces, and on the same u r o backward and forward 1 2 inch, joining together w ith the top line of bust height if the width oi waist is 24 inches, half on front as before figured, ; inches, and 1 inch between the two notches, which together makes 6 inches or one-half oi the half waist measure. If the width of the waist is more or less than 24 inches, figure accordingly from the 2] \ inches. However, the space in front is permanenth 2 ■ inches, the space between always re- mains 1 inch. On the back go in 3 inches from the center back waist line, then lay up the same to under armhole side seam line and go out until you secure the other 6, or the other one. half oi half waist measurement, between the 3 inch spaces and the waist measure, cut out as high as vou want and the waist measure is completed. ■• "£ .:"•••-'•■'.,;- ' s We ile^ir Iiy t rtr>x ctor 3 /'//i/r' Sixty-si m Waist With Seam From Shoulder To The Bust Point. Whenever a semi-fitted or loose coat or vest is required for a lady having a prominent bust, same can be made without am difficulty. Measure the bust at its highest point and go in inches. Divide the shoulder in half and join together with bust point. Now go 1 inch out at either side from the middle shoul- der line, and join the two lines together with the bust point as shown on diagram. In sewing these seams together see that bust portion is not pointed, as it is preferable to have it slightly round. From this point down to waist line the front can be made fitted or loose. Below bust line la\ the cloth on dotted seams, or cut it out exactly in accordance with the style. You can place this seam to any place desired, from the neck to bust point, or from the front under armhole line to the bust point. Be careful, however, to replace at both sides the amount you cut out from between the shoulders to the bust point. 'V't^-V ■■':.- ':■'-' •- -• ..■--•-;|,'-. ■,-.■■. .•■•-''-':.7 :■■:■•- /. ■,.■.■,:■■■''• ..■-'..,; .. ■■ •■ .\- '■?'•....'-■ A'--'J^ Weiler IrvcPtr\icto] ,>«■■ . ■ . !...( ] Page Sixty-nine f- |Z^±ve > "Weiler ItVcrtr>xotorl l] \^~ — ~~ ,..- - ■■••• •-■•■■ .■..-••.• • *V ••- v ■■■■ - : - :.'■■'■. -.;:■.- ■'■»>■■'••■•, -- ; . --•::;■■■ -; • ;..-. v r; 'SJ Waist Front Shoulder With Seam. Back Without. \- shown on diagram 5, divide the shoulder in half, and at both sides take out I inch and join together with bust point. Replace the same at both sides as shown on diagram. Go in on waist line from center front. 2} ■ inches, the same amount as at bust point, now go in 2'_- inches farther. Join together with the bust point in such a manner that bust will not be pointed. At the back go down 3 inches from shoulder point. Divide the back on under armhole line in half. Go in 3 inches on the waist line. Put the 3 incites on the under armhole waist line, then come hack . of waist measure- ment, and 1 inch. Now joint together as shown in diagram. v fc • Weilef Irv inch from the parallel line to S, from the same in .> ; j inches to A, because the hack should be '■ 2 inch larger on hip line than on waist line. At 7 go in 2]A inches, same as at top. From A to B, 1 ' 2 inches. From B go forward 7 inches, from C also 7 inches, now add together the 2] _ inch front, the 3] 2 inch hack and the two sevens, making in all 20 inches, which is one-half the hip measure. In order to get a larger or smaller hip measure, leave the hack and front stationary. Back 3 )A inches. Front 2 _. inches. If hip measure is to he larger or smaller than 40 inches, the dotted lines from B to end of 7. and from C to end oi ~. which points give you the side seams, should he made wider or nar- rower, in accordance with the hip measure. From waist line to length oi coat every seam should he made evenly long. For collar, button and button holes, look at pages 34-35. - ^ ^.■■•^.o^-ia-;- ^F;.±-!?zr:£^K-K&A;\ ->:■ ,'.^-0> ■>■:: ■' v - ^ ■ /.^iT "■...-.j-'W .•->.*■';>.•."...•• $ '>; x v-;.i'' •'*:•>>/";.' ;• .A'"xJ a: trxc o t 1 Pa<7c Sei i nty-threc MZTKe AV^eiler Irv ± j?>j: o torl 'j ^t-' -■ •-• " •---■-• ■-■• *l -^ ■■■■■ -. V>.--,r-- ■.-■•..•, ,-■., .,,■■ ^ Waist Front and Back With Scam. Always use the regular block and measure. On the bust height line go in 2j _• inches. At bottom on waist line the same. Place 2 inches on under armhole side seam, as shown on .1111. and go forward oi the waist measurement, plus 2 inches. If more room is wanted for the bust, it will be pro- vided between the notches below the bust. Join the dotted center line at the shoulder to the bust point. Cut out 1 inch from each side at top of shoulder, and as per gram, replace the same on armhole and on neck. If bust is not very large, of course, take out less. If bust is hollow, do not take awaj anything, but use the diagram without any changes. Shoulder at back as with fore shoulder, divide in half and go forward ' _- inch, adding the amount to the armhole. At back, go in 3 inches on waist line. Place the same 3 inches on under armhole side seam and come back ' . of v measure, plus .- inch. \ w join all the lines together as shown on diagram. For slendei p< - n, or lo s< is unnecess cut out anything on back shoulder 1 eave this plain, the same as where shoulder is divided. c ^ . -•'. '^.'i.:: ■'•'■:•; '>:.> > '.: , '^>".; i .W>^. ^VNTeiler Iiv«ptr ^ ot Page Seventy-five M |zy±ve ^W^eiler Iivj:ctorl ^ r—^^- Panel Front and Panel Hack Tailored Coat. I se the same arrangement as on diagram 75 and finish in same manner at bottom and hip line as on diagram 73. Observe carefully how the diagrams look. For collar ami button ami button holes look at pages 34-35. - E 0-^>>^ ',-.;. ' : m '■'>:■•■-. %*i^*VV># : ■■ t-- ■ .-•■ m '■^:'-y:^- '-^i}'-.- -^ji-sw -i-^.. >••'.<■ ■-• •■■ "'.".',■"'*■■"■•■.. ..' ''■.A'-'-Xj Z^±ve Weiler l t^Aj: o t i /'rw< Seventy-seven ^-y.;---*' .,■■ " ■"■"" .•■••■-■'•■'■••:■■•.» ■-••'■. -■■'•■•'•'• ••■-•:•/• ■■■•■;*,• lV ; lzy±ve Weilef Iiv>■-.:'• ■-.*■■'. ,•■ ■ ..••.■•- ... • ■.- • .. ..^- v. o t ' *' » I /''/i/c Seventy-nine kj |gy±ve "W^eHerr Iiv^trxtc torN Finished Coat. Tight Fitted Back. Semi-Fitted Front. Same instructions apply for back and trout, as on former diagrams, excepting that a tight fitting coat should be cut in more parts. Go out ; inch at the back, hip line, to obtain the outline of back. From this point go in £4 inch to A, which gives the back side seam. •"..ure B, by dividing the distance from A to C in halt. from B go backward : . inch and from this point arc backward and forward in each direction 2] _ inches, which gives the width of the second side piece. Be sure that all the lines from waist to bottom are of equal length. The back width i-'i hip line must always be _■ inch more than that on waist line. If hip measure is to be larger or smaller than +0 inches, make the size from the -^ on second side piece at hip line, ac- cordingly larger or smaller, instead of 2 "■ _• from the B- : ^. But between A and C always divide the same . to get B. For collar and button and button holes look at pages 34-35. tt 3: * V~e Hear IiVtPtrAx c t .-"'"•• ". •'." ";' 1 l ,-■''•■ -:-.- r .-'- .. ••-.•■■•'■•.. ••■"■•■•'-• ■■•;''■••■- \ .• PtffJfC l\ Hill I tl-<>lir Riding Habit Coat. Hip Measure 40 inches. The instructions for the top are similar to those alreadj given for a tight fitting coat. On front waist line, go in - ; j inches and from this J inches, instead of 2 1 _• inches. At bottom 4 inches, and join together. From 4 at bottom, go in 4'_. inches and join together with waist line as shown in diagram. The hack width on waist line is 1 ' t inches. On hip line it is 1 ; | inches, just ; inch more, as on the waist line. From 1 ; ; inches go out to A 1 inch. Go in 5 inches from A. Oo in 5 inches from C: B is lo- cated between these two 5 inch lines. From B, arc backward and forward 2 ' _■ inches in each direction. This gives the sec- ond side piece. Add to edge front from waist line to top 2 inches. From waist line to bottom 1 | > inches, for button and button holes. If a slit is desired in back, 1 ; ( inches of additional cloth will be required from the waist line to bottom. All the lines from waist to bottom must be of equal length. Allow more cloth on hip line of riding habit than for ordi- nary coats, as a riding habit demands more fullness at the seat. Cut out ! 2 inch about ; inches deep on neck. It hip is more or less than 40 inches, make the rives according!) more or less. -two p lzy±v,e "Weile f IiVtr tr Aj o t 2t : £t,f.*j[; -,. : r- 31] /•,,,;,. /• ightij- three j^ v ■;;•-• v .«- •'-••:'.' "-"-■, ! ,■ - - - - : : ■? :: - ■■•■/-' ":•::■■ ■■'• ■--■ "V-Vi I IZ^Ke AVeiler Irv 1rx , >j: ctorl l 2IS Raglan Style Waist. First take out on block the size desired, to comph with bust measure. Connect back and trout of line at depth of under arm- hole with both shoulder points at armhole. On front portion of neck go up inch and in ' _• inch. From shoulder point- on hack go down J- ; inches on front 3| inches. On back shoulder point go up > inch. From center oi under armhole. go forward and backward m each direction about 2' _■ inches. Draw a line down ' ', inch. Now go upward 2] > inches Go down a^ain .\nd draw a inch line from each side of the regular armhole line. Now connect all the numbers as shown on diagram. You ma\ then produce from this, any style raglan coat or waist. However, to cut a larger coat, instead of inch allow ch, and instead of .- allow - : inch around the armhole. If the bust is very large, take out from shoulder to the bust point and replace the same as per instructions for other coats. ^ ^■^^'■'^-Hr :/r:- : ;?zc*i. ■,-<-, * -,. >,.)■-■■■- . ■ . f | ^. .,-, v. ,-■■'--:.•,'■;■;.•. ..,■, ^.^....kT 7 " ,.■■,.■-■.■,•,.■• ,■ ■„ ..>■-■ :^ 'J£ v.aSrtBiv*^: (saws "We^ iler IrvcT^lr jt? ax ctor ] /'•„••. j v'^V -t:A-i :■■■::■".•■'.■ •■•'">•":'>:. -•.•■•■■■' v ;->.- a '-■■ "V.':'"'^ /'i/i/r Eight -■-■:/• - ; ■■;f. , .-. : ^v-. ■ ■■■•'-•:•?*-?■'-.■ :y.y»y'7>^. >.•-■>■.; •■■'■■■.■-.v-'-- ■.. ■■^■■■ 'At p |gy±ve Weilef Iiy'.• inches. On this line go up 2^j inches and down 5] i inches. From under armhole point go down I ' 2 inches and connect as shown on dia- gram. The single crossed notch on back should come direct!) under the single crossed notch on front, for which follow same directions as for back. I he front shoulder armhole point must remain the same as on block. The 22 inches on top sleeve is the length oi sleeve, hut you can make according to your measure. The double crossed notch slight!) fitted armhole with a line similar to back outline, square up 4 inches I rom the shoulder and neck point. From armhole shoulder point go up ' | inch, connecting with 4. This gives the top sleeve and shoulder seam. Draw line down to the length of sleeve measure, 26'j- From same armhole shoulder point go down ' i inch. Curve I rom neck shoulder point, drawing the line through ' 1 down to 26] ■ inches. ( ro down 33 1 inches from under armhole point. From 2(> ] ■ square down to 6} > inches, which gives the half sleeve width. Connect t] ■ and C under armhole point, with a line 13 inches long. Round the line about I inch below I ■'• [, so wearer max more convenientl) raise her arm. Adhere to same instructions for front. The crossed double notches are guides for properl) matching and putting together the back and I rom. Single notches on front must be directl) over the single notches on back, and same rule should be applied with double notches. lhty-eighf «ii .. ... . . .... - — .,-.,-.,..,■ ...., . — ——r*J ^ -*i Kimono Sleeve Coat. Dress or Waist Without Shoulder Seams. Put back and tnmt shoulders together on any portions of your drawing paper. From neck draw a straight line down on the shoulder seam 23} _■ inches, or length of sleeve desired. Square 6 inches to left and 6 inches to right of 23 On both under armhole points, go 3 ■ _• inches to left and 3] _■ inches to right, and connect each with the 6 inch points at both sides, which are the sleeve bottoms, about 13 inches long from 3 1 j. The 23 inch point is somewhat longer than the 6 inch points at either side, because the shoulder requires this extra material. Letter B represents back. Letter F represents front. nety ^>' m 5^S?S ><^;^->' : - ft H'', ;'' A '->>. ,.' SB A' Po^e Ninety-one Z^±ve AVeiler Ii\cPtr\j:otorl ^ &■'■■ '■■'■■ •■•-■■• ■' ' -• • ; "•- '-■■ ■-■'-■■-•■■■•'- - r ': >, |r^;v^; l ,^\-a^v^;.--v:: ; ; .■■-"" Extra Large Sizes Tailored Coat. This diagram shows that a coat of size 50 bust can be made in the same way as anj other coat. To get more room for the bus:, take out more from top of front shoulder to bust point than for a normal size as shown I and \-\ { . Always a. id to each side what you cut out from shoulder to bust point. On front waist line go in 3 inches instead of 2' _. inches. Place this 3 incb.es on under armhole side seam line, and go forward one-halt the waist measure, plus 2 inches. Remember this ! 2 is a ! 2 from the half waist measure. W idth oi back on waist line is 3 inches. Place this on under armhole side seam line, and conic back one-halt waist measure, plus 1 inch. Cut out the cloth which remains between the lines. On the back hip line go in 3 _• inches, or : _• inch more than on waist line. On this line go back 1 inch to the line which is to be sewed to the back seam. At an equal distance from the front piece 3, draw a line down from the second front piece line where the ' _■ and J are located. The 3 on front hip line added to the Z]A on hack hip line makes 6 _■ inches. Now figure the remainder of hip measure and divide b\ 2, now arc backward \ ' 2 from second front seam, and arc forward other half from the 1 inch at back seam line. The under armhole side seam is located at center where arc lines cross. Add to edge 2]A inches for single breasted coat. i or 4 inches for double breasted coat. For collar, buttons and button holes see pages 34-35. \ -tiro j ^Teiler HvcTtrAxc_t iizy±v- * >vr ■•....;.■:,*•■• ■.;>• •'.•>-■■'.■•,. '•■ ' '' ; '■• "'■-'"•'• * : ■•>■■•'■••" 9| Page Xincl ij-lh '"' ' M lZ^lve ~Weile:r Iivj:c torl d ly .-s ■ • ••-.....■■-, .... ..... ■ ■•..>M , vVV.-W.v.V.. - /..V-r. ■;.-■.-•.. --, -. •■-■y;,\J L> •— : — — : : : — »lf~ Vt -•-■-•• : ••■ : - • v -■- ■•■■-■ ^£ Diagram Showing 52 Bust and 62 Hip Finished Coat. This diagram shows how to make an extra large coat hust and 62 hip measure h\ adding an extra piece at the under armhole line. Divide the distance from the back waist line 3, to the under armhole side seam, h\ arcing forward three times. Are backward just one-third as much, from side seam on under armhole. Back hip line is always 3] _■ inches; from this i, r o backward \ ' 2 inch, and sew together with back. From same are forward three times the width of back hip line. From front edge o\ extra piece 3 , are back 2 inches, to get second front under armhole seam. From this are backward ; inches to other edge of under armhole extra piece. Should hip measure be larger or smaller, reduce or enlarge the 3j 2 and 2 portions accordingly, but the 3' \ on back hip line always remains the same. Collar, buttons and button holes, see pages 34-35. ' • ';#--££■ i . ■.>":'- m ■ .-.■ •gf-:- :•;': ■;^: , '^.^y- > ■.. •'■ '- .,■•■- •.. ..• s •■,' '••-,..• • v ;. ill Par/c \ inety-fivi ■•• •■•• '.-v..:-.- • '"F' I V-^a-- ■ ■-:'■ \- -. .. ■•.y , -i---^:-^ : v>^v^.- ^'^N Plain Tailored Sleeve. Mark through the numbers on block which are the same as ust measure, and join together as shown on diagram. v " etusix ®SF35s?65J«Sfe£3sSJS ' in • . ' ■ r. 5 . -. '. *&£3HKr£ ' '&^x o tox>\ A . ■ - •...•■ '- ; . t i Tailored Sleeve With Front Scam Turned In. Allow : inch on trout sleeve seam, from the regular block on front line. Take same amount awav from similar portion on under sleeve. Stretch the top sleeve well on the front seam at elbow portion, and at the same time shape the under sleeve in like pro- portion. This regulates the seam, causing it to always turn in properly. Also, for this reason under sleeve should contain a little more cloth at top and bottom. Make the elbow and sleeve lengths according to your meas- urements. Place the sleeve front seams in 2 _ inches forward from under armhole coat seam. All sizes of sleeves are made in the same manner. y ^ "W^il^rt* IiVcPtrvtct y: ■,-''-■ •■'"• .,-:,,''- ;■;;'- v-a. ■ ., ■•."■-.■. . ... ,- , . •/ ■>■>. Ell Page Ninety-nine "^ l * '■•'< ■ ■ -•■•* : - ■■■..;■ ■'■'>••-■■•■ --■■•'-•■■•: .••--; •..,•/' ■:-> Pleated Sleeve. This diagram shows vou how you can make a very full sleeve and a pleated top sleeve. Draw a straight line through middle of top sleeve. Draw a straight line out from end of top sleeve. For a gathered sleeve, go up 1 inch .\nd out 1 j inches from c\k\ of top sleeve. For a pleated top sleeve, go up twice as much and connect as per diagram. For turned in sleeve seam, use same directions as shown in diagram No. 99. ^frfcv^* y >^ ■■•.;• - ■i^ M i '- : -y-:-\ >v.^?.flf'-. : a •,;■.>■ ,:^,,,A t ,.^. .,-■ -,.-V f -v;,y y 'y -.. .,' •- V-^j* -■'■; ,„?■.'.*.?''. ".;:.■"■' >"■ il r-'-'iVr-tC; ' ;,■ 3 /'//(/c 0/(c Hundred Om J^~- fit ' "' "'" ''' : ' : •■•-••"• : '" ■">'■ '■••'• -■■'-■.■'"■ 'At H£^±v e "Weileir Irv«x>t:E»Aji o tori J as Raerlan Sleeve. The trout seam ma\ be made similar t«> No. °r. or with turned in seam like No. 99. From trom sleeve point go down 2 inches to A. In back go down ,^- ; to B. Connect A with B, and divide the line in half. 1 ocate ; on under sleeve. From this portion, which is about ■> ■ inches below center dot between A and B, draw a straight line across under sleeve .\nd divide in half. Repeat this performance at bottom of under sleeve. Now you have the center of top sleeve seams. On top of upper sleeve go in ; inches. From this go in 1 inch and from here go in ; inch. Draw a line from A through 5 to a degree 7 inches be- yond ; . Draw a line from B through 1 to a degree 7 inches nd I. Add a : s width on each of both ends at 7. This will finish the width on neck. On the under sleeve end go down • inch. From here go down : j inch. Now connect >, ; . and Connect . • . and ; s. This rounds out sufficient >m for the shoulders. The two opposite crosses on end of each shoulder portion will show the correct location for the shoulder ends. \: both sides .. n 5 inches below the : s at top 7. Or the front go out 2] inches C from the shoulder seam. On the . x from the shoulder seam go out 2*] P From end oi top sleeve above B, . . inch higher, and _- inch out from the C innect : s. J ; P and _• with B .>- ; .. Go up J inches on top end of front slee\ . Connect : s at 7 with 2 C ami T. which - I inches higher from front sleeve point. All sizes '. raglan sleeves are made in the same way. Ar- .. the elbow and length according to your measurements. The length from end of shoulder to 7 make according to meas- urements. ? "Weiler IrvcTtrxcqtor |Z5r±v 2t N / .'..■, O/i, // (//n/i . ,/ / J,- ,-..■'■:■•,'*,:■•■ :.r : ^,^^v.P^-..^ ; ^ y ^ ■•• ; ' • ■' " •■''■"•> •'. :■ ■• ' ••■■■■ ., | , ■■ ^ ■■ ■ ■•■■,•-'■:•■•:■■.. ■^■.•-■;■*••■>. ■ ■■■■■.. 'V '. : '.i' ■:--•.. ..■-.-■■ ^jf nr IiVcTtrM o tori /'^/i/« 0//r Hundred Five |J5> - ■ ■■ ■ ., 1 , -- ----- -■ ■-- :■-- - . --r..». - 2 y^ ; ■■»■• — - ■- -■-■"- •■* -->•••' .%1 \ AZT±^e Weilef Iivj>tr\EC tor| -j Cape With Shoulder Seam. 1 a\ the shoulders together; however, the front must be on a straight line according to the nap or stripe of cloth. Front about 29 inches long. Back 2 inches longer. From the neck through the shoulder, the side length is the same .is the front, 29 inches. When the back and front shoulders are laid together, draw- center back line on a level with the front line. On the shoulder line, draw a straight line for side seam down to 29 inch. From this point, are backward and forward b inches in each direction. From these points, draw two lines to be joined at shoulder end where the armhole end shows. As a guide to properly space these lines to end of shoulder, at a degree about J! inches below shoulder armhole and a width of _- inch on each side. For buttons and button holes. 1 ' _• inches should be allowed. - ^^nw^^c^^tt • ^^iTi'-^ 1 ' :|Z JKe ~Weil e:r IiVcrtr>xct< J? .'■ ■, '■'■ ". WvW *i Pajre Owe Hundred Seven y.;V; ••■■ -. ,; • -••,'.- ••■ -- . , -■■, •;/■•'' '■■ . -' ^f/ r.\ . '^- ■■■'?^'r.V' ^V S^\ "* .^ .*■'.. >.'-V- -,1 »'- Xf :-\ /"'V ■ ., .,* M^Ttf ••: |zy±v AVeiler IiVcT»tr\j:ct ■■ ■ <■■'■ m : ^.-s:^. I I Ugh Collar Cape, Tin the front and back shoulder together exactl} ol equal height and width, so that the lines will both be the same. Divide the rounded neck portion in half. Go 1 ' _> inches to left ami right from the center in each direction. From same renter point draw up 3] i inches, and go out 2 inches at each side of this point. Divide portion from end of bottom to end of neck into three parts, and con- nect same as on diagram. Cut from anil back part portions, alter the finished center part, as shown on diagram. Sew the three pieces together in a manner to cause the proper flare at the top. For buttons and button holes allow I ' _. or 2 inches on front. e Hundred Eight y#ggjgig ^^::.w?!;:avv^:^ ■ ■■ ■, ■■■''■•'■ ' ■■■ , "' :: «f. .' ■ ■•■. ;. ■. -.,■ ,■■■.;■' . i ■.'■/ ,•,. i. . ■•■ "■-. y • ■ ■ ..■ Weiler Itvj*tr>j: o t ami J Pag, Om Hundred Sine Weiler IiVcPtrxtctorl ll ZT±v •-^■•■" ■•■ .'-•■:•■:•■• "'- '--.•••■.■:•••■■"■ ? '■.i > ^ l '..-v\--....^ : .^---.',;;-^ -v^vV, _^ Skirt Back and Front. A shows how the skirt front and back appears, alter proper numbers are marked through the block. Make skirt according to your measures ami desired length. The two crossed notches is where the two parts of skirt come together. B. Seleet ami mark through on block the numbers as per your hip measure. The skirt front and back and the waist line always remain the same on the block. M\ block is adjustable according to the hip measure, as the accurate waist measure cannot always be procured. The same- hip measurement is often required to be used with several dif- ferent waist measurements. If waist measure be same proportion as on block, make no changes. It waist measure be larger or smaller than on block, enlarge or reduce accordingly on front and back, from waist line to hip line. Hip line always remains the same. For a high fitted waist skirt, extend and enlarge the waist accordingly. ' h °c.\ I ' i One Tlundred Eleven Si Weiler Iiy _ inch hack panel, do the same wav. P m >v.:-*#1£- ^iitf-Xt.,*.*:-..^-; ^"^.f v ' ; -'- : -'' ~WteileaT " liv«rtg\i:o t S£l4 Pone One Hundred Fiftt en Vr-r— Tr~~~"r ■ >. , »j> Seven Piece Skirt. Lav the two crossed notches together on hip line and allow skirt to run as per clotted lines on diagram. To get the depth of hip line, go down 7 inches from front, and S inches from back of waist line. On the front waist line go in l l j inches, now cut out ' _• inch. On hip line 7, go in 2 ! _| inches. Draw a line from 2 1 , through 2} i to desired length. On back waist line go in 2$ inches. On hip line 8, go in 3 inches. From 2-vj cut out 1 inch. From center of same draw a line through 3 to desired length. Divide in halt the distance between the 1 inch cut out at back, and the ' _. inch at front. As an example, suppose this waist measured 11 inches. Take one-half the waist measure, which is 1 1 inches. Now go in 3 inches from the ' _• inch cut-out on front panel. Also 3 inches from the 1 inch cut-out on back panel. Add together front panel 2 1 [ and back panel 2-\ ; . with the two 3 inch spaces on waist line, which give you the 1 1 inches, or one-half the waist measurement. "U hen the waist measures more or less than 11 inches, the two .^ inch portions on the waist line should be enlarged or re- duced accordingly. The front and back panels always remain the same. Cut away all which remains between the two 3 inch por- tions, to get the side seam line. For the bottom side seam, also divide in half the distance between front and back panel seam, and connect as shown on diagram. Skirt may be made as long as desired. Hack pleat requires 4 inches. Skirt may be fastened at front, back or side. Leave 3 inches for facing. Iliiiii/n - §-xotorl H •i •■•••■•--•• m --• J o-.X --■--.,..■•■ ■•■■■...;■ ■■.V>^:;, --•>•:••■: ■; . Pleated Skirt. These instructions will come in handy, as the styles are fre- quently changing. Connect the two crosses, allowing the side lines to run as shown on diagram No. 117. Draw a line on front, back and side according to your length of skirt. On the waist line, go in 2 inches on front. On hip line , . go in 2 : _■ inches. Go in 3^4 inches on back of waist line. On hip line 8, u r o in 4 1 _. inches. Divide the top waist line between inside end of Sv; and front end of waist line 2, into as many pieces as you desire to make the skirt. From each one of these evenly divided portions take away an equal amount of cloth, in order to get your proper size of waist. To get the side seam, divide the space from front to back in half at the bottom. Divide the bottom evenly into same number of pieces as at top waist line. Now connect the waist line and bottom as shown on diagram. Allow 4 inches for pleat on back. One B I ^ lzy±v ft ■..-.. ■■ !■<■ .*•';. ■*.-'-.» ■ & ,-■:■; ...' •'■• \;r;"'''?:-'''' •.''■ "'-'"'' " '•.■'■' "■"'"''•'.<■■ '■ 11 X 9 -"''^"j'-t. /',/,/r 0/*e Hundred Nineteen r I— — ■ — : '■ — : *1* — I _>n p |zy±ve Weiler Iiv\tctor| | Riding Breeches. From X square in. Also square down from X to desired length oi breeches l'i> get No. 12. go in one-half waist measure, less I inch. From 12 go down I 1 inches to B, and continue the same straight line down to same length as side line X. From X L, r <> in 5 inches. Connect 5 with 1? 1 ' _■ to get the top part of waist line. From 12 go back inches. From 2' _• go up 2 1 _■ D. From side X ^o in 2 inches. From 2 go up to C I. Connect C I and 2' • 1). This gives you waist line on under trousers. To i your waist size, measure from A to 1>, and from C forward add one-half of what remains, and from I) backward add the other half. Cut out what is left between C and D as shown on diagram. From top side X go down \2 inches to E. This is the measure taken from waist to angle of seat while lad) is sitting in a chair. i)n 12 E go in ] j inch. Draw a line in from \2 E through 0. From dot which connects \2 E and \2, go out 5 inches, and up 5 inches. loin the end of each S together with a line, and divide the same in half, which gives the 3 ! _• on diagram. On the line which goes up S inches, go out 1 ' _• inches. Now connect P> , C . and 5. From \2 E go down 4 inches. From this 4 draw a line in lSj/2 inches. From this 15' _. go out 4 inches. Connect with a straight line 4 and 2'_> D. From I") J '• _• to 4, connect with a little round dot line as shown on diagram. On your length go in 4 1 j F. Connect this 4 1 j with 4 at side line, as shown on diagram. From F 4 1 j go in 6 inches to get the width of bottom oi under breeches. Connect 6 to 4 X as shown on diagram. From F 4 go in Ml inches for the bottom top oi breeches, which is al- ways about 4 inches largei than bottom of tinder breeches. From \0 go up 1- ; _|. foin 1 - ; j to F 4 1 [. Now join the same 14) with 5, o, through 15 FOR CUFFS, draw on any part oi your cutting paper, a straight line IS 1 ) inches across or same length as width of bottom o\ breeches. It requires 10 inches for bottom of top breeches. It requires 6] j inches for bottom of under breeches and 2 inches for buttons and button holes. At side go down l'j inches. Go in 2 inches on bottom. On the other side go down 1 inch. Go in l'j inches and connect as shown on diagram, foin the cults to the bottom of breeches so that all the parts match perfectly. Cuffs can be made an\ desired width, whether 4, 6, S or 10 inches. , Uj Tl :«*»«£#«■ as %¥#&■<&?&'& ■■■'■: "■'■■■'. :•""''■''• ■■';•' -^•■;^>^V^/;^::r'\^ ; sV''^^/f- ; .-"'^.'''.»'^r -t-'i ■:•'. ' : '''.''A'. ••-■■ , v ■••••■■.••■■"■!.''■. ■■■■. ; .'V'. ,/ -f'>-"'---' '•■ ■''-'— ; .""- -; ■■ ...•■"•' v ^ /'(/x o t: ->" > v Riding I [abit Skirt. Waist 2b; hip measure 45: length 42. It measures are larger or smaller than these pro- portions, change the hip and waist measures ac- U.; on underskirt l. is the depth of hip line. l! ; . is depth ot hip line on top skirt 2. m these lines, skirts can be made larger or er, as may be desired. In order to get your waist measure, reduci enlarg • i darts accordii The arrows show in which direction the naj material should run. The arrows in the P on the trout skirt also show in which direction the nap ot material should run. To join the left side ot underskirt and top skirt tirst cut out and sew part v ;er on left side skirt, then connect A with A. On part B of left side l is shown two buttons. On top skirt 2 part B is shown J button hi s These indicate th< ocation ior same. On l and J. hooks and eyes, clasps and but and button holes can be made on extra piece-. D. No. I will require l - _■ inches of addi- tional cloth. The lour bottom buttons should always remain • .. They may even be - toget er, so that a it top represents the p.. tel where ski" - • 5. Hie pockets an s. : The cloth always cuts - a :id with up. Sew together from end to end. extra . ece I 1 on top. and extra piece D on lett side 1. Number 1. Draw . straight line across the and from front end of same di rallel line down • f 45 inches. On this front line go down 1 inch. 3 inches. 4 inches s inches. 13 - '.(-•'_. \~- inches. 25 es. in on line 1. 9 inches and ll- : 4 inches. G ; on 9. Connect with 1 1 : ,. « hich mak - On lint i a s 1 - and lo in< This a - i the width cut out between 12 and On line 4 go in 7-^. 11 - 5 4 . 14^ and 2 C nnect lo - so gives the waist line. On line S a 5 . . 22. Hie position of rs local tet a here skirt - - \ shows t Mo. 22 is ss than one-third of hip m - go in 4 Number ". s the seao line. NJo. 15 shows i s of ( : i \ " s the s \ 23 s - - From ll go throug From . and connect with A. On line 17 ' ; go in 7 s 22. Cut out portion between 7- : _> and 8 Ends of dans C, J7J and 23 will come together. m front straight line on 25 £o in 3 J • and A. 1' get width of skirt bottom, go in 3 : _. and 2 8 inches. On 3 a ip to 6 and from 6 go out 1 - _- inches. On 28 g Nov match and join all the - carefully together as shown in diagram. /' p Parti • Riding Habit Skirt No. 2. Again draw a straight line across top. Also draw a parallel line down from sleeves and wn 3, 5, 6; -. li». II 29. On top line a On line 3 go in Join together as shown on diagram. This line - you the opening on the extra piece D. On iine 5 go in I 23 .-'._. Join this with 25yi, 24 23 get part of the waist line on . piece D. On line - i .-. ( ha , ■ . inch. On 10 go up inch. Now join together for pa:: list line. On 13 a inch. On 17 : j go down Nov ivith 21 line. _ - - .- On 11 a in 4. 10 .-.!l-_. 2°-. 31 ..41. 4 - • a 57, -. 15 48 - On 45 }4 go down l'j inch and conn - s - " - shown on diagram. A s i nnect -3 - - - - ; " - the end of the extra piece. On sh »rt line 15".- go in 3 : _ and 10, which is end of darts. • i shows : knee v tra piece P should b On 23 _ ■• - On 29 g N >W MEASURE gi ft side oi Un- rskirt 1. rt A. From 21 ' L :nake the same leng - I skirt \ ch will measure on lini ; - - ime length as No. 1. line A. on the front straight a ; On 5 _ " s for v idth f si I \ . : j . . straight line. v nect all the lines - - _v.m. 1 | lZJKe Weilef Irv«j>1rg>>a: c? tori 1] -t ,-i .■".."•;.;.: n-; ; : •■..:»■: i -;''..'• ■• . •'. ' ■ ''.;>. 1 V -:'.-.\- .■ ; ,./. .•;** ■..'.. r ! ■.-■•-■.; .•■..;■.'■' •$%■ I'ni/i- One Hundred TwentyThree Designing Suits and Long Coats. 1/2 1 he other outlines the same, ready to use without any system knowledj Hundred Twenty Four ^ fV*V- '*>>#,••;■,'**■ ^ Designing Dresses The first is a dress designing system. The second is readv to use, without the slightest need of learning a system. Lav up this little block on any part of the paper. Draw a line around the end, and make as many different styles as you wish. You know one cannot accomplish anything without a little practice, so do not allow yourself to become impatient, as practice will make perfect. Page One Hundred Twenty Wive ■ |ZT±ve Weilef Itvjtr\t cto Ell jk ■■■■-■ -■■■■ - -■ ■■■-■■ -^ r - ■■■■•-■•- ■ ■■■- , -^- ■- -^ Finished Designing. All the other designs show how to make different kinds of suits from the same pattern. ■> ¥***• ■ ■ '■ ' •• J- -■■•■■■■ .--■■ — . J 1 I ,,..-■ — — 1 ■ .■> I i Z^±v si] Page One Hundred Twenty Seven V fc.s*!&si»r , . i <*3#»*i : jj^v^.^SSSsS^ 583 •";)'■' ,; '■•'■■. ■ r^lTy tv.^ Weile r Iiv■'•■;. „'■■■•■■ :^>l. ?.A.^;^:'7^^'.. f -u-.-^" ..-•••■■ ■■■ ••■■ ' V* ;••$ .■Vv;r:-;-;-:*-,;'::.-\-: ■">-V a: r^r,^.;;---;..^-.^-.-,,., ••■■■ •■.. -■ ■■■-■• ■■•■' V torffl Pane One Hundred Twenty Nim ■^ ad \i-Vv--;v,;ir\,:'^'i'^*iV^:v^---^^ : -^>"' v >^v , ~' v --' ^•'■'"-^ "•■••-:•■'•' ■''•''-* ^ /,,,,, 0«c Hundred Thirty One 1 £ scty&m m ' -'■ ■''- "' . .""''• .V V .",";" ;.; Page Our Hundred Thirty Tim e ■ •■•■■■■■>■■■> ■■--" :■<"■■ -■• :■>■■■■■--■'-■.'.'•'-• ■ ■' ■■ •• •-. Weilef I -:^ ■.■■:;;v'-' ■?>•'•' l'. -•••:-'.r ^■^■V:^-' ' :;; ' I Mi J * Poffe One Hundred Thirty Seven ? AVeiler Iix