• ^.'^ ^^ oVje 
 
 
g^,- ^v --^ .y^^XF/ >- 
 
 
Europe 
 
 for 
 
 $2 a Day 
 
^OOKg OF iJuROP^AJN Jr/^VZU 
 
 Saunter ing 8, By Charles Dudley Warner, Author of " My 
 
 Summer in a Garden," etc $ 1.50. 
 
 .... "The book contains a little about England and France, more about 
 Switzerland and Holland, and a great deal concerning South Germany and Italy. 
 There is not a dull page in it ; but it ^lows with a quiet drollery ana a genuine 
 wit that is refreshing, and not provokmg, as wit too often is." — Springfitld Re- 
 publican. 
 
 Caatilian Days, By John Hay. x2mo. $ 3.00. 
 
 ". A most attractive volume, in which Colonel Hay writes easily and pictu- 
 resquely of the cities, streets, and buildings, and oflthe history, politics, and 
 domestic life and character of the inhabitants, of that unique, old-fashioned 
 country [Spain]." — London Spectator. 
 
 Hawthorne* s European Sketches and Notes* 
 
 OUR OLD HOME. Essays on English towns, country scenes, people, and 
 customs, ta.cx). 
 
 ENGLISH NOTE-BOOKS. Containing a multitude of hints and flying sketches 
 of England and the English. $2.00. 
 
 PEENCH AND ITALIAN NOTE-BOOM. Full of Hawthorne-ish observa- 
 tions and reflections. $ 2.00. 
 
 Boppin's Travel Sketches, 
 
 UPS AND DOWNS ON LAND AND WATER. #10.00. 
 CB0SSIN8 THE ATLANTIC. $500. 
 ON THE NILE. $ lo.oa 
 Mirth-provoking books, diverting to look at while voyaging, pleasant to exam- 
 ine as reminders of travel past 
 
 The Itands of Scott. By James F. Hunnewelu ismo. $ 2.50. 
 
 *• It is a delightful epitome of the great author's life and works, the reader being 
 introduced to a detailed acquamtance with these, while he is led through the 
 localities which the genius of Scott has celebrated." — Buffalo Courier. 
 
 Six Months in Italy. By George S. Hillard. $ 2.00. 
 
 " The record of a brilliant episode in the life of a scholar, which has filled his 
 memory with images alike beautiful and enduring. It is almost minute enough in 
 its descriptions for a guide-book, yet abounds in just and sensible remarks, well- 
 informed criticisms, and varied learmnj;." — Putnam's Monthly. 
 
 Notes of Travel and Study in Italy. By Charles Eliot 
 
 Norton. $ 1.25. 
 "Mr. Norton is no ordinary tourist." — /»/ij7tf. Press. 
 
 •«• For sale by Booksellers. Sent, post-paid, on receipt 0/ price, by the Put- 
 Usktrs, 
 
 James R. Osgood & Co., Boston. 
 
Eitrope for $ 2 a Day, 
 
 A FEW NOTES FOR THE ASSISTANCE OF TOURISTS OF 
 
 MODERATE MEANS, WITH SOME PERSONAL 
 
 REMINISCENCES OF TRAVEL. 
 
 By M^VrsWEETSER. 
 
 BOSTON: 
 JAMES R. OSGOOD AND COMPANY, 
 
 Late Ticknor & Fields, and Fields, Osgood, & Co. 
 1875. 
 
NOXONIHSVM 
 S63)IONOD lO 
 
 Copyright, 1875. 
 By JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO. 
 
 
 '1 
 
 University Press: Welch, Bigelow, & Co. 
 Camdridge. 
 
PEEFAOE. 
 
 I BEGAN by reading " Eobinson. Crusoe," and ended 
 with tlie wanderings of Ulysses. Between these two 
 extremes were twelve years, and several scores of books 
 had been devoured. It seemed that almost everything 
 worth mentioning in the history of the world had 
 taken place in Europe and around the Mediterranean 
 Sea, and that about all the art and architecture under 
 the sun were displayed in those favored lands. I there- 
 fore resolved to forego the Plato and the Calculus of 
 the Senior year, and to study the mother-lands of mod- 
 ern civilization. I could make a right royal and free- 
 handed tour of three months' duration ; or a more 
 moderately conducted sojourn of a year ; or an econom- 
 ical journey of still longer duration. The first would 
 give a glance at London, Paris, and Germany, with 
 perhaps a flash into Italy ; the second would do all 
 this, and aff"ord oj)portunity to study Germany, Swit- 
 zerland, Rome, and Naples ; the third would add 
 
iv Preface. 
 
 Egypt, Palestine, and Greece. I decided on the latter 
 course, and made a tour of twenty months at a cost of 
 $1,500, out of which I purchased $300 worth of pic- 
 tures and other souvenirs. 
 
 While making my plans I read Bayard Taylor's 
 " Views a-Foot " and Ealph Keeler's " Atlantic " pa- 
 pers, but they did not answer my purpose. I wished 
 to know how a gentleman can make the European tour 
 very economically, yet without encountering absolute 
 hardship, or demeaning himself by assuming the garb 
 and customs of the peasant. I was therefore left to 
 learn by experience, a sufficiently hard teacher. The 
 lessons which I thus acquired, and a previous knowl- 
 edge of which would have made the trip much more 
 enjoyable, I have grouped in this little book, hoping 
 that they may be of service to some who shall come 
 after. Rugged and disconnected, and all that, they may 
 be, but they are given in good faith, and with a hope 
 to " lend a hand." You may think, my kind reader, 
 that some of the suggestions are quite superfluous, and 
 so they may be to you, but not to the next man who 
 buys this book. I have seen repeated instances of 
 dereliction or of suft'ering under many of the condi- 
 tions deprecated in the ensuing pages. 
 
 I should like to put one of these little books into the 
 
Preface. 
 
 hand of every young American who is about to make 
 the European tour with limited pecuniary resources. 
 I have therefore made its selling price only large 
 enough to cover the cost of printing, and have been 
 aided also by the advertisements in defraying the ex- 
 penses. With respect to these advertisements, which 
 Avere furnished at a late hour by the firm of James 
 R. Osgood & Co., I can say that I thoroughly in- 
 dorse their commendations of Baedeker's European 
 Handbooks, of which they are the American pub- 
 lishers. As to Osgood's American Handbooks, I can- 
 not give so decided an opinion, as I have not travelled 
 by their aid (though I hope to do so some time), but 
 if the critics are right when they give them a rank 
 with Baedeker's and Murray's guides, they must be 
 very excellent works. 
 
 This book is intended for the use of young men who 
 have resolved to make the tour, and are planning as to* 
 how they can best accomplish it. They will differ from 
 me in some points on which I have insisted, and will 
 doubtless find others of but little value, but I trust 
 that every reader of these pages may get at least two 
 or three hints which will be of good service. If a man 
 has got " Europe on the brain " (inelegant, but expres- 
 sive), and can't go like a prince, and won't go like a 
 
vi Preface. 
 
 peasant, but is prepared to face a little hardship and 
 practise certain self-denials, then this book will serve 
 him. But to people who are not inwardly impelled to 
 go abroad, who have been used to luxury and can't do 
 without it, who lack either physical strength or in- 
 domitable hearts, who want to go abroad merely be- 
 cause it is fashionable, or because the European tour 
 is to their understanding an immense lark, I would 
 frankly say : Don't go across the water until you have 
 plenty of money. 
 
OOI^TENTS 
 
 1. A few Reasons for making the European Tour, — and 
 
 the Policy of going while Young . 
 
 2. Of a Preliminary American Tour . 
 
 3. Of Certain Wise Preparations 
 
 4. The Voyage across the Ocean 
 
 5. Of Hotels and Boarding 
 
 6. Of Railroads and their Accommodations 
 
 7. Of Steamboats and their Arrangements 
 
 8. Of Baggage 
 
 9. About Money, and how to carry it . 
 
 10. Of buying Goods wisely 
 
 11. Of Clothing 
 
 12. Of Photographs for Mementos 
 
 13. Of Circulating Libraries, Cheap Books, etc, 
 
 14. Of American Consvils and their Powers . 
 
 15. Of Fees and Gratuities 
 
 16. Of Companions .... 
 
 17. Of Pedestrian Tours .... 
 
 18. Of Guide-Books .... 
 
 19. Of carrying Weapons 
 
 20. Of Diaries, Sketch-Books, etc. 
 
 9 
 25 
 28 
 37 
 45 
 51 
 56 
 60 
 62 
 67 
 70 
 72 
 75 
 79 
 82 
 84 
 90 
 94 
 99 
 102 
 
viii Contents. 
 
 21. Of Newspaper Correspondence 107 
 
 22. Of the Etiquette of Churches and Palaces . . 112 
 
 23. Of English Churches on the Continent, etc. . .117 
 
 24. Of forming Proper Anticipations .... 121 
 
 25. Of Peculiar Tourists 124 
 
 26. Of Passports 127 
 
EUROPE FOR $2 A DAY. 
 
 1. A feiv Reasons for making the European Tour, — 
 and the Policy of going while Young. 
 One of the best reasons for this tour is the sun- 
 shine of memories which it stores up in the mind, 
 like the ancient heavenly rays which were absorbed 
 by the vegetation of the carboniferous era. As the 
 latter now mitigates the cold of our Northern win- 
 ters in the genial heat of the glowing coals, so may 
 the strata of reminiscence yield their cheering 
 warmth during the storms which the coming t"me 
 may have in its gloomy reserves. Or through the 
 sweetest summer-hours and the days of palmiest 
 prosperity, there will come hours when a yet 
 brighter glow will suffuse the mind in the light 
 of that remembered holiday. Tiie outlines of the 
 1* 
 
10 Europe for %1 a Day. 
 
 tour, at first strongly marked and definite, \vill 
 slowly fade away, leaving in the mind a vast and 
 beautiful memory, as vaguely drawn as one of 
 Turner's paintings, and as fascinating. If it is 
 desired to restore or to keep fresh the Pre-Raj^hael- 
 ite distinctness of any phase of the pilgrimage, 
 that may be eff'ected by the aid of the diaries and 
 pictures which have been brought home. In idle 
 hours, on sea or land, on quiet Sabbath afternoons, 
 in the serene hush of old age, you are not forced 
 to feed the active mind with affairs of business or 
 family cares, for there is a most glorious gallery 
 of pictures in the corridors of memory, where the 
 new life can admire the achievements of the ear- 
 lier days. Or when you are riding home at even- 
 ing in the crowded horse-car, and have thought 
 over every phase of your business and your domes- 
 tic management, and have grown weary with all 
 the prose of this work-a-day world, you could stray 
 back to rest amid those old poetic memories, — 
 in the rural lanes of Merrie England, the legend- 
 crowned towers of the Khineland, the sun-confront- 
 ing Alps, the white and heroic cities of Italy, the 
 
Europe for %1 a Day. 11 
 
 Sicilian orange-groves, the divine solitudes of 
 Greece and Palestine, beloved of gods and men. 
 If your thoughts chance to take an anthropocen- 
 tric turn (as the philosophers would say), you 
 could recall the lineaments and traits of that 
 merry Saxon student who taught you to like 
 lager-bier in the Briidergasse at Dresden, the 
 black-eyed Marianina who brought you a bouquet 
 every morning at the little Roman cafe, or the 
 truculent and evasive Suleyman who guided you 
 from Jerusalem to Damascus, and howled his dis- 
 mal Arab songs into the shrinking wind. But it 
 is useless to dwell on the value of such reminis- 
 cences, — the poet has already revealed all that in 
 " The Pleasures of Memory." If the uncultured 
 farmer from the Fourth Range of the townships 
 of Maine derives material for years of pleasant 
 retrospects from a week's visit to " Besting," how 
 much more ought you, with your observant mind, 
 to gain from a year in Euroj)e ! 
 
 The aesthetic tastes are developed more fully 
 and broadly by the European tour than in any 
 other way. Nowhere else are the beauties of 
 
12 Europe for $2 a Day. 
 
 nature and of art displayed so lavishly, and 
 nowhere else have they been so thoroughly com- 
 prehended and compared. There arc detached 
 bits of natural grandeur in America which have 
 no equals across the sea ; but here the intervening 
 distances are so vast that no traveller less fanatical 
 than Mr. Phileas Fogg would dream of visiting 
 and comparing them. Niagara Falls, the Yo- 
 semite Valley, and the peak of Mount St. Eli as 
 are grander, each in its wa}^, — as representing 
 distinctive elements of scenery, — than anything 
 of their kinds in the Old World. But thousands 
 of miles intervene between them, rendering it 
 nearly impossible to conduct a successful journey 
 thereto without incurring great expense and hard- 
 ship. The scenic interest of America (as well as 
 that of Asia and Africa) is impaired by its vast 
 distances. There are also people who complain 
 of the bad taste shown by "the exaggerations of 
 nature on this continent " ; but they are generally 
 Anglicized Americans, and deserve pity rather 
 than censure. The Fourth-of-July orators are 
 wiser than they know, when, from the influence 
 
Europe for %1 a Day. 13 
 
 of hereditary custom and the desire of pleasing 
 their rustic audiences, they claim that America 
 has greater rivers, loftier mountains, broader 
 plains, and larger lakes "than the effete despot- 
 isms of the Old World " ; but the very magnitude 
 of these natural features renders most of them 
 comparatively inaccessible. Nowhere have we 
 such a continuous succession of scenic beauties as 
 may be found in journeying from Cologne to Sor- 
 rento, where the traveller passes, by short and 
 easy stages, from the rich and picturesque Rhine- 
 land to the bright lakes and glacier-girdled peaks 
 of Switzerland, the fair and fruitful plains of Lom- 
 bardy, the Apennine ridges and glens of Tuscany, 
 the matchless sea-view^s from the Cornice Road, 
 the proud desolation of the Roman Campagna, 
 and the unrivalled beauty of the Bay of Naples. 
 
 Moreover, the modes of access and sojourn have 
 been so carefully provided in the old realms of 
 Europe, that travellers can pass from point to 
 point with the minimum degree of expense and 
 trouble. There are hotels and railroad-cars for 
 all grades of pecuniary ability, and cosey inns 
 
14 Europe for $ 2 a Day. 
 
 built ill the very arcana of nature ; broad and 
 massive roads in the remotest Aljune districts; 
 enrailed gorges, illuminated caverns, pavilioned 
 view-points, and tower-crowned mountains. Ev- 
 ery device which the brain and hand of man 
 could jjlan or construct for rendering the sight- 
 seer's task easy has been applied in Central and 
 Western Europe. Nature is exhibited at her 
 best ; it only remains to comprehend her. 
 
 And in the comprehension of the highest mis- 
 sion and grandeur of Nature and Art, the travel- 
 ler has rare aids. For w^e are not all gifted with 
 equal discrimination and power of appreciation in 
 all the realms of beaut^^ Even if the intuitive 
 natural percolations are ah origine correct in these 
 matters (and not weakened by the inheritance of 
 many decades of American practicalism), they are 
 likely to be either undeveloped or perverted. The 
 startling, the grotesque, the brilliant, will often 
 attract the attention and enlist the interest, how- 
 ever meretricious or unworthy it may otherwise 
 be ; while objects of infinitely higher beauty may 
 be lightly passed by. The average traveller would 
 
Europe for %1 a Day. 15 
 
 feci far more interest in the Manneken of Brussels 
 than in the Victory of Brescia. Without some 
 knowledge of the history and principles of art, the 
 works of the great masters, in their present an- 
 tiquity and oft-seen dilapidation, would scarce 
 demand a second glance. Nine men out of ten, 
 without previous art-culture or historic knowledge, 
 w^ould prefer the brilliant paintings of the modern 
 French and Diisseldorf schools to the rare works 
 of the earlier masters ; admiring Holman Hunt or 
 Ary Scheffer more than Albert Diirer or Leonardo 
 da Vinci ; and choosing the landscapes of Gifford 
 and Church before those of Poussin and Claude 
 Lorraine. Many of the tourists themselves would 
 be unable to give the reasons of their preferences 
 for the more ancient and august schools of art, ex- 
 cept that it is en regie, and that all previous trav- 
 ellers had become enthusiastic over them. It is 
 only after earnest study of the great w^orks them- 
 selves, and of the canons of art relating to them, 
 that their full glory is manifest. Even the Dresden 
 Madonna is beautified above its apparent majesty, 
 by a knowledge of the principles which underlie 
 
16 Eurojye for %1 a Day. 
 
 its designs and history. To pass to other things, 
 how apt is the nndisciphncd mind to form wrong 
 relative conceptions about the phenomena of na- 
 ture, of rehgious systems, of ethics, and of evciy 
 chiss of the manifestations of mind and matter ! 
 
 We need, therefore, a stronger outward light, — 
 a higher criterion of the true, the beautiful, and 
 the good, — in order to rightly and fully appreci- 
 ate the world about us. Such a criterion may be 
 found (if anywhere) in the recorded opinions of 
 the wnse men of the past three thousand years, 
 and in this introspective criticism the literature 
 of Europe and the Levant is wonderfully rich. 
 There is no department of observation or inquiry 
 on which this light is not thrown ; — from the 
 physical and sesthetical relations of the Swiss 
 and Syrian mountains to the subtlest speculations 
 on the elusive problems of psychology, from the 
 fascinating analysis of the works and aspirations 
 of the cathedral-builders and JMadonna-painters to 
 the latest achievements in railroad construction or 
 naval and military armaments. The traveller in 
 Europe can cultivate his aesthetic tastes under 
 
Europe for $ 2 a Day. 17 
 
 the mentorship of the loftiest intellects of all 
 ages, — from ^schylus aud Homer dowu to Haw- 
 thorne and Tyndall. 
 
 Another benefit which is likely to arise from a 
 prolonged European tour is the knowledge of for- 
 eign languages. It is difficult to avoid picking up 
 many phrases in the diffisrent countries which are 
 traversed, and the traveller who wishes to master 
 the languages needs only to be duly observant 
 and receptive, and to spend a few earnest days 
 over the grammars. 
 
 It is evident that habits of self-reliance and of 
 the close observance of human nature will be de- 
 veloped in a young man who attempts to travel 
 over Europe with limited means. He will soon 
 learn how to detect and combat the selfishness 
 and stupidity of the North, or the knavery and 
 treachery of the South, and will become skilled in 
 the meanings of tones and fixces. He has no fam- 
 ily protection to fall back on, no college club to 
 grade his expenses equitably, no comrades to 
 confer with, — but must face the music alone. In 
 the great cities he will meet deceivers of every 
 
18 Europe for $2 a Day. 
 
 grade, — sometimes most refined in appearance, — 
 and, unless lie travels in reticent seclusion, he 
 must learn to detect these wolves and escape 
 them. He must learn to curb and control his 
 Italian or Arab guides, and to expose their tricks ; 
 to avoid the boundless impositions of the shopmen 
 and innkeepers ; to meet all manner of men on 
 the vantage-ground which official station or innate 
 ajititude has given them, and to be observant of 
 their ways and demands. The object is to make 
 a limited sum of money" carry you as far and 
 unlock for you as many gates as possible, and to 
 achieve this end, lavishness and carelessness must 
 be guarded against at every turn. Economy will 
 then be a trait which may be rapidly developed, 
 and there are but few who are heedless enough to 
 traverse Europe without a close scrutiny of their 
 bills. If the careful traveller who rejects extor- 
 tions and demands equity inspires transitory re- 
 sentments among the hosts who live on tourists, 
 the lavish and unquestioning son of shoddy who 
 submits to every demand oftentimes excites pit- 
 ying contempt. (In speaking of economy, I 
 
Europe for %1 a Day. 19 
 
 mean the grand old Platonic idea of olKovofita, 
 "the law of the home," and its wise adaptation 
 of resonrces to desired ends, — a virtue which, 
 thank God, is once more growing among the 
 American people. Vicious parsimony is some- 
 times mistaken for this noble attribute, but with 
 that I have naught to do; for a truly parsimonious 
 man w411 scarcely venture on the European tour.) 
 Another benefit resulting from this journey is 
 the securing of a higher physical culture. The 
 exchanging of sedentary pursuits for an active 
 out-door life which is protracted through many 
 months can result only in benefit to the entire 
 system. Every plan of the European tour should 
 include a pedestrian journey and some mountain- 
 climbing; while even the task of sight-seeing in 
 the cities calls out a remarkable amount of physi- 
 cal exercise. It is uninteresting and (since the 
 mind becomes re-active) almost unprofitable to 
 attempt laborious exercise for its own sake, but 
 when there is some noble object in view that labor 
 becomes rich in healing. The weary hypochon- 
 driac who finds it hard work to walk around Bos- 
 
20 Europe for %1 a Day. 
 
 ton Common twice a day, in obedience to his 
 doctor, wonld, after a short preliminary discipline, 
 walk in a day from Coventry to Kenil worth and 
 Warwick, or from Zermatt to the ^ggischhorn 
 and the Faulbcrg Grotto. In Professor Tyndall's 
 words, this cheery walking "rescues the blood 
 from that f\itty degeneration which a sedentary 
 life is calculated to induce." 
 
 Still another rich lesson to be learned on the 
 European tour is the history of the people, — 
 their religions, ethnology, and local quaintnesses. 
 The grandeur of this study and its wide possibil- 
 ities are too evident to require more than a mere 
 statement here. The inductions thus formed, 
 after adequate and patient observation and 
 thought, will be of constant value to -the scholar 
 or the man of society. The variety and richness 
 of the subjects of study in this line are beyond 
 estimate. Here you can observe the scenes and 
 effects of the achievements and beliefs of the 
 men of Europe from the remote era of the stone 
 age down to the rise of centralized imperialism 
 in Gennanv, and the failure of the republican 
 
Europe for 1 2 a Day. 21 
 
 systems among the Latin nations. Men are of 
 more importance than stone, even though the 
 stone be the marble of Pares and Pentelicus, 
 carried into the most majestic and beautiful sem- 
 blances of life. " The granite statues have out- 
 lived the gods," but the human soul gave origin 
 to both and has outlived them all. The classic 
 nations, submerged under the resistless deluge 
 of the Northern races, have passed from the 
 world ; but we can still study the descendants 
 of the Saracens, the Celts, and the Dani, and 
 the splendors of the modern Gothic civilization 
 of Western Europe, remembering, in pride and 
 hope, that 30,000,000 of the Americans are Goths 
 also, and are still conducting the immemorial 
 Gothic policy of a victorious march to the west- 
 ward. 
 
 In matters of art and architecture Europe is 
 like a vast Kindergarten school to the American, 
 whose country, although unrivalled in its rail- 
 roads, bridges, mines, and factories, and unex- 
 celled in the comfort and purity of its homes, 
 has not yet entered on a course of wise embellish- 
 
22 Europe for %1 a Day. 
 
 iiieiit. Tlie technical terms and the achievements 
 of the various schools of painting, from Cimabue 
 to (Jerome, are there placed before him, and can 
 be analyzed and understood by the plainest ob- 
 ject-lessons. The noblest statuary of the world, 
 from the days of Phidias to those of Powers, are 
 displayed in full view. The various styles of 
 architecture are there to be studied, from the 
 Parthenon of Ictinus to the new Law-Courts of 
 Gilbert Scott, and all its marvellous changes and 
 fulfilled aspirations are recognized. Even without 
 giving special study to the subject, and by simply 
 looking on the buildings in the dim light of a 
 guide-book, the traveller will soon learn the dif- 
 ference between Gothic and llenaissance. Classic 
 and Romanesque, and can distinguish between a 
 gargoyle and a caryatide, or a finial and a crocket. 
 I have given but a few of the many reasons 
 why the European tour should be made. Some 
 of the others are sufficiently obvious to any one, 
 and others may be found in stronger and wiser 
 books than this little pamphlet. But the chief 
 reason, after all, is — that you want to go; and 
 
Euro^je for | 2 a Dwj. 23 
 
 that point requires no argument. Some young 
 men have as strong a yearning and as intense a 
 need of going to Europe as the theological stu- 
 dents at Andovcr or Newton feel for entering the 
 ministry, and perhaps it comes from the same 
 source. 
 
 There are many reasons why a man should 
 make this tour while he is yet young. The pro- 
 fessional or mercantile connections and the family 
 ties which soon twine tliemselves around men 
 render a long absence impossible, even if sufficient 
 money is forthcoming. If he does not go before 
 he is tw^enty-five years old, he generally will not 
 be able to go until after forty-five, and by that 
 time much of the earlier enthusiasm will have 
 faded away, and the fresh and adventurous spirit 
 of youth will have vanished, like the effervescent 
 bubbles of champagne. He will then have a 
 richer fund of experience and observation to draw 
 upon, and can compare things w^ith a clearer eye, 
 but his journey will have none of the tin-ill and 
 the romantic joy of that of the youth fresh from 
 
24 Europe for %1 a Bay. 
 
 college, with the beautiful (ircek and mediaeval 
 myths haunting his memory in all their fresh 
 brilliancy ; with the world before him, unclouded 
 and joyous; and Avith an unworn and tireless 
 physical system. The maturer man would some- 
 times look on cathedrals and palaces with his 
 admiration mingled with sorrow, remembering 
 the evil popes, the extortions from the" people, 
 the revelations of the lust and greed of mon- 
 archs; but the youth has not yet read D'Au- 
 bign^ and Draper, Gibbon and Greville, and he 
 2)eoples all these vast temples of religion and 
 sovereignty with lofty ideals. 
 
 The information gained by the young man in 
 this tour will aid him in all his after-life and in 
 many ways, and besides that he would have 
 many more years of golden memories. If at any 
 future time he wishes to make the journey again, 
 it can be done much easier and with better re- 
 sults, from the data afforded by the first visit. 
 An experienced traveller has said that any one 
 who wishes to carry out the European tour in 
 a thoroughly enjoyable manner, should make a 
 
Europe for | 2 a Bay. 25 
 
 preliminary visit of six months' duration to its 
 chief places, — the first trip being of the nature 
 of a reconnoissance, whose resulting information 
 could be used on the main tour. 
 
 2. Of a Preliminary American Tour. 
 
 Gfentlemen of the class which might be called 
 the ultra-American will strongly advise you "to 
 see your own country" before going abroad. If 
 this counsel were followed, you could never go 
 to Europe, for it would take a long life and a 
 longer purse to see our country, from Alaska to 
 Florida, or even to visit the famous places of 
 resort between Los Angeles and Mount Desert. 
 There is no section of the Republic that has not 
 charms for the tourist, in greater or less degree. 
 But our distances are great, and the expenses 
 of travelling here are comparatively heavy, so 
 that but few young men can afford the time or 
 money necessary to make the tours of both con- 
 tinents. Since you can do but one, of course 
 your choice should fall upon the older and richer, 
 2 
 
26 Europe for $ 2 a Day. 
 
 where you can enjoy more and learn more, and 
 where you can travel much longer for the same 
 amount of money. I may be overstating the 
 matter, and 1 acknowledge that I know little 
 about America except what I have read, but I 
 believe that there are far more and richer treas- 
 ures of art in little Belgium than on this wliole 
 continent, and that the narrow domains of Swit- 
 zerland contain more noble natural scenery than 
 all the States east of the Rocky Mountains. Af- 
 ter you have completed the foreign tour you 
 will have a lifetime in which to visit our not- 
 able places, and you can enjoy them with a 
 higher and more cultured taste. If you can 
 then say, with so many other men of voyages, 
 that the Hudson surpasses the Rhine, that 
 Mount Desert suggests Capri, or that West Vir- 
 ginia is rich in Tyrolese scenery, it will please 
 us all. You can also bring back valuable ideas 
 in art which may perhaps aid our poverty in 
 that direction. B}^ the way, an English trav- 
 eller in this country once told me that the mo- 
 notonous similaritv of our new soldiers' munu- 
 
Europe for %1 a Bay. 27 
 
 ments gave him the idea that a regiment stand- 
 ing at parade-rest had somehow been converted 
 into bronze, and that its members had been dis- 
 tribnted among our towns, to guard their public 
 squares from the summits of granite pedestals. 
 
 If you can afford an American tour preliminary 
 to your foreign one, it should be in the ancient 
 and wealthy districts of New England and the 
 Middle States. Plymouth, Newport, Harvard and 
 Yale Colleges, and perhaps the White Mountains 
 and the Maine coast, would give you valuable 
 ideas of New England. A circular tour from New 
 York up the Hudson and Lakes George and 
 Champlain, then to Montreal and up the St. Law- 
 rence and Lake Ontario to Niagara Falls, thence by 
 Erie and across the Alleghanies to Gettysburg, 
 Baltimore, and Washington, and a return through 
 Philadelphia to New York, — such is the outline 
 of a journey which, I have been assured, would 
 include some of the most interesting places in the 
 Atlantic States. You can get round-trip tickets 
 covering this route for a low price (during the 
 summer), and it would probably take but three or 
 
28 Europe for $2 a Day. 
 
 four weeks. Osgood's American guide-books to 
 New England and the Middle States would enable 
 you to estimate your other expenses from their 
 lists and prices of the hotels, etc., and would 
 doubtless give all necessary information about the 
 scener}^, cities, and historic events. If you could 
 spare the time and money, this would make a 
 valuable tour and greatly increase your knowledge 
 of the foremost cities and finest scenery of the 
 Atlantic States. If you are not going abroad for 
 a year or two, this prefatory journey would afford 
 a rich and interesting summer-vacation meantime, 
 giving you also a foretaste of the bright and the 
 dark sides of pleasure-travel with limited means. 
 
 3. Of Certain Wise Preparations. 
 
 In Reading. — You can hardly go amiss in laying 
 in a large store of information about the scenes 
 which you propose to visit. The guide-books will 
 give you statistics in abundance, so your chief aim 
 here should be to post yourself in history, art, and 
 ethnology, in i"cfercnce to the lands which you are 
 
Europe for %'l a Day. 29 
 
 going to. You will doubtless think of many 
 other and better books, but I will tell you of a 
 few which have greatly pleased me : — 
 
 Draper's " Intellectual Development of Europe." 
 
 Lecky's '' History of European Morals." 
 
 Guizot's " History of Civilization." 
 
 Brace's " Races of the Old World." 
 
 Haven's " Scraps from a Pilgrim's Wallet." 
 '■ Prime's " From the Alhambra to the Kremlin." 
 
 Felton's " Familiar Letters." 
 
 Twain's " The Innocents Abroad." 
 
 Italy. — Hawthorne's '* Note - Books on Italy," 
 Taine's "Travels," Eustace's "Classical Tour," 
 Dante's "Inferno," Swinburne's "Italy" (a ringing 
 poem), Boccaccio's " Decameron," Madame De 
 Stael's " Corinne," Howells's " Italian Journeys," 
 Warner's " Saunterings," Virgil's ^Eneid (Cranch's 
 translation, or Morris's new one), Rogers's " Italy," 
 Hillard's " Six Months in Italy." 
 
 Rome. — Bulwer's " Rienzi," Hawthorne's "Mar- 
 ble Faun," Story's "Roba di Roma," Gibbon's 
 " Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire," Mil- 
 man's " History of Latin Christianity," Hare's 
 " Walks in Rome," and " Days near Rome." 
 
30 Europe for %2 a Day. 
 
 Florence. — George Eliot's ''Romola." I should 
 think that Ruskin's new " Mornings in Florence " 
 would afford foscinating themes, as his " Yal 
 d'Arno" does. Perkins's " Tuscan Sculptors." 
 
 Venice. — Howells's "Venetian Life" and "A 
 Foregone Conclusion"; Byron's" Marino Faliero." 
 
 Germany. — Of course you should read as much 
 as possible of Goethe and Schiller. In the Rhine- 
 land you will be interested in Byron's "Childe 
 Harold," Bulwer's "Pilgrims of the Rhine," Tom 
 Hood's " Up the Rhine," Saintine's " Legends of 
 the Rhine," Victor Hugo's " The Rhine," Long- 
 fellow's " Golden Legend." Professor James M. 
 Hart's new book on Germany and its universities 
 is useful to whoever wishes to study there. A 
 very serviceable history of Germany has been 
 written by Bayard Taylor, based on the best 
 authorities. Along and near the Rhine you 
 might be interested in " Quentin Durward," 
 " Anne of Geierstein," and Cooper's " Heiden- 
 mauer." 
 
 Great Britain. — The novels of Dickens and 
 Thackeray will be especially attractive in Lon- 
 
Europe for %2 a Day. 31 
 
 doii, and almost every Avork on English history 
 enlightens parts of this vast metropolis. The 
 romances of Sir Walter Scott and Burns's poems 
 are for Scotland; the lives and poems of 
 Wordsworth, Coleridge, and Sonthey for the 
 Cumberland lakes ; Lever's stories and Moore's 
 poems for Ireland ; Wilson's " Tales of the Bor- 
 ders " for Southern Scotland. John Timbs's 
 " Romance of London " and " Curiosities of 
 London" contain many interesting items. Haw- 
 thorne's " Our Old Home " and " English Note- 
 Books " have many exquisite Avord-paintings, and 
 Irving's " Sketch-Book " gives beautiful English 
 views. 
 
 France. — In Paris all travellers should read 
 Victor Hugo's " Notre Dame " and " Les Miser- 
 ables," and Eugene Sue's " Mysteries of Paris." 
 Edward King's "My Paris" is light and pleasant. 
 If you can get the book written about the late 
 siege by the correspondent of the " London Daily 
 News," that phase of history will be w^ell dis- 
 played to you. Taine's " Notes on Paris." 
 
 The Provinces. — Mrs. Macquoid's " Through 
 
32 Europe for $2 a Day. 
 
 Normandy " is a recent work wliicli is liighly 
 praised ; and Blackburn's " Nonnandy Pictu- 
 resque" may give some fresh ideas. Blackburn 
 and Taine have written fine works on the Pyre- 
 nees ; and the mediaeval towns of Brittany and 
 Provence have also been well described. 
 
 The best books of travel have been written by 
 Englishmen, and you will find them in abundance 
 when you reach London. The quaint old prov- 
 inces of Great Britain and France, the loftiest 
 Alpine peaks, and all the shores and islands of 
 the Mediterranean have been explored by the 
 imperturbable Anglicans " with perennial j^ellow 
 gaiter," and have been described, in many cases, 
 with vigor and originality. 
 
 The more you know of the history and techni- 
 cal excellences of art, the better you can appre- 
 ciate the vast collections of pictures that will 
 demand your attention. When I went abroad I 
 knew the names and nationalities of the great 
 painters, but about their peculiar styles and their 
 causes, their lives and characters, I had but little 
 information. I have learned of these things 
 
Europe for $2 a Day. 33 
 
 since ; but if I had seen their great works with 
 this knowledge in mind, the effect would have 
 been far better. Of the works on this subject 
 which are easily accessible here, Mrs. Clement's 
 handbook of " Painters, Sculptors, Engravers, and 
 their AVorks " is perhaps the best, being jDortable, 
 well condensed, and skilfully arranged. (It costs 
 about $3.25.) The ponderous works of Ktigler 
 and of Crowe and Cavalcaselle are too voluminous 
 and technical for the unprofessional reader. Mrs. 
 Jameson's " Italian Painters " affords interesting 
 reading. 
 
 You will also stand in daily need of information 
 about the early saints and the Christian traditions 
 as treated in Art ; also of the Greek mythology 
 and fables. All these things are massed com- 
 pactly in Mrs. Clement's " Handbook of Legend- 
 ary and Mythological Art," a companion volume 
 to the " Painters," etc. They are treated more 
 diffusely and with fascinating interest in Mrs. 
 Jameson's little blue-and-gold books, " Legends 
 of the Madonna," " Legends of the Monastic 
 Orders," and " Sacred and Legendary Art." 
 2* c 
 
34 Europe for $ 2 a Day. 
 
 You will, of course, carry with you a general 
 knowledge of our own country, — its history, 
 power, and government. For several months 
 prior to my departure I devoted two hours a 
 day to the study of American history, poetry, 
 belles-lettres, and the Constitution of the Re- 
 public, expecting to find many inquirers about 
 these things among the effete despotisms of the 
 Old World. So far as that went, however, a 
 knowledge of the Sioux language would have 
 been about as useful to me. Nearly all the 
 English people whom I met were densely igno- 
 rant about us, and the French were still more so. 
 An Italian lady, rambling at eve in the Milanese 
 Public Gardens, suggested that, since I came 
 from America, I probably knew her brother, 
 who had been in my country for twelve years. 
 Recollecting the amicable Italian who was wont 
 to intune the melody of ''The Beautiful Blue 
 Danube " under my home-windows, I cautiously 
 asked her in what city her brother dwelt. " In 
 Rio Janeiro," she said. I told her that I was n't 
 much acquainted there, — did n't go there very 
 
Europe for %1 a Day. 35 
 
 often, in fact, — and forthwith gave up my design 
 to be an apostle of xA^merican ideas, sent home 
 my memoranda of the population, progress, and 
 history of our States and cities, forgot Judge 
 Paschal's comments on the Constitution, and let 
 even " Thanatopsis " lie down to pleasant dreams. 
 It is useful, however, to have the mind well 
 stored w4th facts about our home-land, in order 
 to make just comparisons with what we meet 
 abroad. If the thousands of cultured Americans 
 wdio cross the ocean every year would do this, 
 and, noting the contrasts, would use their votes 
 and influence when they return home in favor 
 of improvement, the millions of our money which 
 are spent in these tours would be well invested. 
 We do not all know, for instance, that the masses 
 of the Prussian nation are far better educated 
 than are our own people ; that our skeleton army 
 and powerless navy cost every year a much 
 greater sum than maintains strong national ar- 
 maments in Europe ; that tinder-box cities are 
 an American specialty; and that municipal cor- 
 ruption and legislative dishonor have reached 
 
36 Europe for |2 a Day. 
 
 their lowest depths in our Republic. If our 
 young men who go to Europe would bring 
 back and energize their memories of the best 
 things that they see there, we should have fewer 
 Vinnie Pteams in art, Mulletts in architecture, 
 Camerons in politics, and Morrisscys in civic 
 power. I love to think that the United States 
 is one of the three great nations of the world, 
 that its people are happier and more prosperous 
 than any others, and that its future is filled with 
 ever-increasing glories ; but I used to wince at 
 hearing, racked on guttural German or melted 
 in sweet Italian, the disgraceful word, " Tam- 
 many." Since that. Credit Mobilier and Pacific 
 Mail ; and some new shame is probably now 
 ripening for another "investigation." 
 
 Standards of Comparison. — It is useful and in- 
 teresting to' carry from your home the measure- 
 ments of some public building or square, in order 
 that you may make comparisons between them 
 and the grander structures across the water. The 
 mere statements of altitudes and areas in feet or 
 yards give only a vague sense of the magnitude of 
 
Europe for %1 a Day. 37 
 
 the objects under consideration ; but if you have 
 other and more famihar objects with which you 
 can compare them, the idea will be much more 
 clear. It aids your conception of the spire of 
 Strasbourg Cathedral to know that it is twenty- 
 five feet higher than two Bunker Hill Monuments 
 piled on each other; or that the dome of St. 
 Peter's (at Rome) would hold more than thirty 
 domes like that on the State House at Bos- 
 ton ; that Commonwealth Avenue is wider than 
 the Boulevards of Paris, and seventy-five feet 
 wider than the Ring-Strasse of Vienna ; or that 
 Mont Blanc is higher than Mounts Washing- 
 ton, Adams, Kearsarge, and Holyoke piled upon 
 each other. 
 
 Jf. The Voyage across the Ocean. 
 
 The expenses for a cabin-fare to Europe and 
 back are formidable to one who wishes to make an. 
 economical tour, but they must be met with the 
 best grace possible. The wide margin of $ 100 on 
 the out and return voyages will tempt many young 
 
38 Europe for $ 2 a Day. 
 
 men of limited means to prefer the steerage pas- 
 sage to the cabin passage, bnt the money thus 
 saved can never make compensation for the hard- 
 ships endm-ed. I have known gentlemen who 
 have crossed in this manner, but it has always 
 been one of their most gloomy reminiscences ; and 
 I had one friend, a theological student, who was 
 made so dangerously sick by the steerage air that 
 he was unable to commence his travels for several 
 weeks after reaching the other shore. There is a 
 large party of college students going to cross in 
 the steerage this summer, and they may suc- 
 ceed in avoiding some of the chief discomforts 
 by mutual helpfulness. This part of the steam- 
 ship is permanently infected with an air which 
 is poisoned with a peculiarly foul acidity and 
 a sickening mal-odor which are to the last de- 
 gree disagreeable. I have never crossed in the 
 steerage, but have visited that part of the ship 
 on several occasions, both at sea and in port, and 
 have never been able to remain but a very few 
 minutes. It is not so bad on the eastward voyage, 
 when there are generally but a few dozen passen- 
 
Europe for $ 2 a Day. 39 
 
 gers ; but the ships bound for America usually 
 have hundreds of emigrants, men, women, and chil- 
 dren, cooped up in the narrow space between decks, 
 sick, squalid, and frowzy. These people are mostly 
 Irish and English of the lower classes, a visit to 
 whose houses, when they settle in America, would 
 cause you disagreeable qualms ; and this feeling is 
 mtensified by seeing them huddled together by 
 hundreds and afflicted with sea-sickness. If the 
 sea is quiet you could sleep and live on deck, but 
 in case of a gale you are forced down into th3 
 Gehenna below. Of course it is possible to en- 
 dure and to make the passage both ways in this 
 manner, but it would hedge in your journey on 
 either side with such bitter and disgusting memo- 
 ries as to overcloud the whole tour. I should 
 advise a friend to wait years rather than go to 
 Europe in the steerage. 
 
 If you could get a chance to cross on some sail- 
 ing-ship, your expenses might be comparatively 
 light, and you would be transported by the poetry 
 of motion. You can generally find American ves- 
 sels in New York or Boston, loading for some 
 
40 Europe for $2 a Day. 
 
 British or French, Btiltic or Mediternmean, port, 
 and can perhaps secure a berth in the captain's 
 cabin. The voyage is apt to be long, a deterring 
 circumstance if you are HaVjle to sea-sickness. 
 
 It is announced that there is a new hue of trans- 
 atlantic steamships, which will sail every week 
 between New York and Hull, with a uniform rate 
 of $G0 for cabin accommodations. If its proprie- 
 tors carry out their promises, this line will afford 
 one of the most comfortable and economical routes 
 to the British Isles. The second cabin of the 
 Anchor Line steamships gives very pleasant quar- 
 ters, and passengers by this route liave interesting 
 views of the North Irish and Scottish coasts and 
 the Clyde Kiver. 
 
 The Cunard Line of " British and North Amer- 
 ican Royal Mail Steamships" plies between New 
 York and Liverpool {via Queenstown) semi- 
 weekly. Fares, |130, $100, and $80 (steerage 
 not announced). This line is especially famous 
 for its safety and regularity. 
 
Europe for $ 2 a Day. 41 
 
 The Iiimaii Lino steamers leave New York 
 for Queenstown and Liverpool every Saturday. 
 Fares, $100 and $80 (steerage not announced). 
 
 The xA.merican Line steamers leave Philadelphia 
 for Queenstown and Liverpool every Thursday. 
 Cabin fare, $ 100 (intermediate and steerage fares 
 not announced). These are the superb and pow- 
 erful vessels built on the Delaware River. 
 
 The State Line leaves New York for Liverpool 
 fortnightly. Fares, $ 70, | 60, and % 40. 
 
 The White Star Line leaves New York for 
 Queenstown and Liverpool every Saturday. 
 Fares, $100 and $80 (steerage not announced). 
 
 The National Line, from New York to Queens- 
 town, Liverpool, and London. Fares, $ 80 and 
 % 70 (steerage not announced). 
 
 The Great Western Line, from New York to 
 Bristol (Eng.). Fares, $70, $45, and $30. 
 
 The Williams and Guion Line, from New York to 
 Queenstown and Liverpool. Fares, $65 and $80. 
 
 The Anchor Line, from New York to Glasgow, 
 every week. Fares, $ 70 and $ 50 (steerage not 
 stated). 
 
42 Europe for $2 a Day. 
 
 The Ived Star Line, from New York and Phila- 
 delphia to Antwerp, fortnightly. Fares, $ 90 and 
 $ GO (steerage not announced). 
 
 The North German Lloyd, from New York to 
 Southampton and Bremen weekly. Fares, % 100, 
 % GO, $ 24. 
 
 General Transatlantic Company, from New York 
 to Havre. Fares, $100, $ G5, 1 30, $22 (in 
 gold). 
 
 Sea-Sichiess. — You wnll doubtless read and hear 
 of many infallible recipes against this distressing 
 trouble, and perhaps some of them may afford 
 relief. The best antidote that I found was a 
 constant preoccupation of mind, and a methodi- 
 cal ignoring of physical phenomena. The chief 
 subject of thought and of conversation is apt to 
 be the probabilities and pains of sea-sickness, and 
 the reflex influence of so much dwelling on this 
 theme has a very bad eflect. Allusions to this 
 malady should be banished as rigorously as the 
 Beecher-Tilton trial is forbidden mention in cer- 
 tain circles of Knickerbocker aristocracy. The 
 
Europe for 1 2 a Day. 43 
 
 mind is not usually in a condition to grapple witli 
 study, while on the sea, and you will find light 
 literature more engrossing and easy. A handful 
 of sparkling novels will be of great value during 
 the ten or twelve days' voyage, and will effec- 
 tually divert your mind from less pleasant sub- 
 jects. Then there is conversation to be carried 
 on, and cards are played on the cabin tables. 
 
 As to the purely physical side of the case, I 
 think that plenty of fresh air is the best antidote 
 to nausea, and in order to get this you must keep 
 on deck, at least during dry weather. The bra- 
 cing air of the sea will strengthen and invigorate 
 you, but it must be immixed with odors from the 
 cookery department or the oily machinery. It 
 is well to pass much of the time in reading, 
 chess-playing, or other mind-absorbing and eye- 
 engaging occupations. If you watch the rolling 
 of the ship, as shown by the rapid rising and 
 sinking of the horizon or by the broad curves 
 made by the masts and yards, the effect may be 
 disturbing. The suggestive sights, smells, and 
 sounds which occasionally appear in the cabin 
 
44 Europe for 1 2 a Day. 
 
 Avill be apt to try 3'our rctontive powers during 
 the first few daj's. The bull's-eye window of the 
 state-room should be kept open as long as the sea 
 is quiet and no spray is flying. But if, after all, 
 you arc sick in spite of every effort, the better 
 way is to give it full play and have done with 
 it, lying in your berth and putting yourself under 
 the steward's care. I have known resolute fel- 
 lows to battle down their nausea, and to remain 
 half-sick and scpieamish throughout the voyage, 
 when a day of total surrender to the mal da mer 
 would have made them all right. After all, it 
 is very beneficial physically, though temporarily 
 unpleasant, and it leaves one with an amazing 
 appetite. 
 
 In the ordinary late spring and summer voy- 
 ages there is but little to fear from this cause. 
 The steamships are largo and steady, and pass 
 quietly out over a tranquil sea. I crossed in 
 such weather, and was not sick an hour ; but on 
 returning, through a fierce January storm, I was 
 unable to leave my berth or to eat for nine days. 
 Seek the summer passage, if possible. The cabin 
 
Europe for $ 2 a Day. 45 
 
 tables are spread for four or five rich meals a day, 
 and your appetite is usually ravenous. You will 
 eat much and sleep much, and promenade the 
 deck for exercise. When you reach the other 
 side it will be necessary to cut loose from your 
 cabin associates, or, in keeping pace with them, 
 your money will vanish in a few weeks. 
 
 5. Of Hotels and Boarding. 
 
 The chief item of expense, and the one in 
 which you must take the greatest care, is that 
 of your daily bread. You will have but about 
 $1.25 a day for your hotel expenses, and you 
 must learn to calculate accordingly. Assuming 
 that you wnll be in Europe" one year, you will 
 probably spend six months of that time in 
 the great cities. In any city between Edin- 
 burgh and Naples you can get a small room in 
 a respectable private house, with attendance, for 
 $ G a month. Your breakfasts and lunches, in 
 the British coffee-houses or the Continental cafes, 
 will cost about 15 cents each; your dinners will 
 
46 Europe for $2 a Day. 
 
 average 30 cents. I believe that one can live 
 altogether safely and comfortably on 80 cents 
 a day during long sojourns in the European 
 cities. I lived in Florence for four weeks pleas- 
 antly for $ 15. GO. My room on the Borg' Og- 
 nissanti, and overlooking the gardens of a nun- 
 nery, cost $ 1 a week, $ 2 went for lights and 
 attendance, and the remaining $9.60 was for 
 food and cigars. In London I got a good room in 
 an Aldersgate coffee-house for $ 1.50 a week ; in 
 Edinburgh, a large room fronting on the Univer- 
 sity for $ 1.87 ; in Paris, near the Boulevard des 
 Italiens, for $ 5.60 a month ; and so on. The 
 first requisite is to get a neat and cheerful little 
 room, in a pleasant quarter of the cit}^, and not too 
 ftir from the galleries and public buildings. The 
 arrangements as to lights, fires, washing, and ser- 
 vice should be thoroughly understood both by 
 yourself and the housekeeper, so that no after- 
 disputes may arise. Then you have a centre of 
 operations against the cit}', with your books on 
 tiic table, your clothing unpacked, and tlie photo- 
 graphs of the dear ones at home hung up on the 
 
Europe for 1 2 « Bay. 47 
 
 walls. You will soon find a cafe and a restaurant 
 (or, in Italy, a trattoria) where the other com- 
 forts of life may be supplied. 
 
 Thus you will have spent, in the six months 
 of your life in city lodgings, about $ 146 for 
 board ; and you have $ 300 left for the six 
 months of provincial travel, or about $ 1.64 a day. 
 Now one way in which you can make a great sav- 
 ing throughout the tour, and with very little 
 deprivation to yourself, is by avoiding the so-called 
 tahle dlwte at the hotels. This is an immense 
 dinner, occurring late in the afternoon, and cost- 
 ing from 60 cents to $ 1.20. It includes wines 
 and fruits, and numerous courses of soups, fish, 
 and meats, and leaves a man feeling like a gorged 
 anaconda. Moreover, it takes full an hour of 
 your time, and is altogether a very un-American 
 and unbusiness-like waste of time and opportu- 
 nity, although it is a very pleasant season for 
 pecunious parties who are travelling in company 
 and can keep up a cheerful conversation over the 
 richly laden tables. But we, you and I, can't go 
 far in Europe if we affect these aldermanic din- 
 
48 Europe for $ 2 a Day. 
 
 iiers, and wc are not required by the customs of 
 the hotels to pay for them unless we partake. So 
 we can get a quiet little dinner of three courses, 
 at a neighboring restaurant, for 30 cents ; and 
 we have, therefore, $ 1.34 to jmy for our lodging, 
 attendance, supper, and breakfast. By turning 
 over the pages of Baedeker's guide-books, you will 
 see that you can rest at the best of the second- 
 class hotels for that amount. In this important 
 item you may therefore effect a considerable saving 
 of money, which can be devoted to lengthening 
 the tour or to buying photographs of scenery and 
 architecture. The English and Scottish inns, cen- 
 turies old, neat as jewel-caskets, broad, low-roofed, 
 and hospitable, with white-sanded floors and red- 
 curtained windows, presided over by buxom and 
 red-checked old housewives, and honored in Brit- 
 ish song and story from Chaucer down to Eliot, 
 generally charge but a shilling each for lodg- 
 ing, supper, and breakfast ; and they give rare 
 good cheer at that. The Belgian estaminet and 
 the German or Swiss gadhcms will also give you 
 good quarters at moderate prices ; but the Italian 
 
Europe for %1 a Day. 49 
 
 locanda is too often dirty and cheerless. It is 
 well to inquire the price of lodgings, etc., before 
 settling down for the night. At the South-Italian 
 inns of inferior grade it is prudent for you to look 
 well to the door and window fastenings, and to 
 secure your valuables safely. In all the ports of 
 the Levant there are low-priced hotels, generally 
 kept by Italians, where one can board for about 
 % 1.25 a day. 
 
 I maintain, then, that your approximate ex- 
 penses for board, while travelling rapidly in Eu- 
 rope, would be: for first-class, $2.25 to $3.50; 
 second-class, $ 1.G4 ; and third-class, but little 
 more than $ 1.25. Don't think of the latter as 
 a " cheap and dirty " mode of travelling, for it is 
 not. My general course was to stop at the hotels 
 of the second class, but in a few trips I was forced, 
 from temporary slcnderncss of funds, to visit the 
 last-named grade, and rarely suffered any actual 
 discomfort. The rooms are scantily furnished, 
 the fare (though hearty) is plain, and the attend- 
 ants require frequent drummiug up ; but neatness 
 usually goes with the simplicity, and your appe- 
 
50 Europe for $ 2 a Day. 
 
 tite will not demand ragouts. The squalor of an 
 American third-class tavern is sui generis, — totter- 
 ing and dirty wooden verandas, fluffy sofa-cushions 
 covered with ancient oily stains, vacant entries 
 with torn and spattered paper on the walls, frowzy 
 and leprous sheets, and towels of variegated 
 .dirtiness, tablecloths bedraggled with gravy and 
 other stains, black-bladed knives and iron forks, 
 rank butter, dyspeptic bread, leathery meats, and 
 the whole house saturated with the stale and sick- 
 ening odors of bad tobacco and worse liquor rising 
 from the dingy and brawling bar-room. Don't 
 attach any such ideas to the British rural inn, 
 the French auherge, the Belgian estaniinet, or the 
 Germmi g a sthaus ; and the dirt and chill even of 
 the lower Italian locanda have picturesque concom- 
 itants, and are neither frowzy nor seedy. There 
 are " Temperance Hotels " in most of the British 
 cities, but they are generally cold and cheerless, 
 and lead a weak and sickly life in their tenuous air 
 of moral reform. (I will except the three Waverley 
 Hotels of this class, in Glasgow, Edinburgh, and 
 London, each of which I found warm and cheer}^, 
 and well patronized.) 
 
Europe for $2 a Day. 51 
 
 The " drummer," or ''commercial traveller," is as 
 much a feature of European life as of American, 
 and may be met everywhere. I believe that our 
 drummers are better acquainted with the various 
 hotels on their routes than any other class of men, 
 and their transatlantic brethren have the same 
 gift. If you meet any of them, on the trains or 
 at your hotels, you can get the names, peculiari- 
 ties, and prices of half the hotels in their respec- 
 tive countries, and make out a very serviceable 
 list for future use. Overflowing with anecdotes 
 and full of sport, they oftentimes make pleasant 
 companions for a dull rural evening. 
 
 6. Of Railroads and their Accommodations. 
 
 After deducting the cost of board, clothing, and 
 fees, from the $ 730 appropriated for your year's 
 tour, there remains about $ 150 for transportation 
 expenses. Part of this amount will be used for 
 carriages, diligences, and steamboats, but most of 
 it will be consumed in buying railroad tickets. 
 In Europe there are three classes of cars (and in 
 
52 Eurojye for 1 2 a Day. 
 
 parts of Germany, a fourth, resembling cattle-cars), 
 of which the first class is luxurious, the second is 
 comfortable, and the third is extremely plain. 
 The saying is common in Northern Europe, that 
 " none but Americans, princes, and fools ride in 
 the first-class cars." The first-class compartments 
 are usually warmed in winter, the second-class are 
 sometimes, but the third-class are left cold. The 
 first and second classes arc partitioned off into 
 compartments, each of which holds 8 or 10 per- 
 sons, on two seats, fronting each other ; and are 
 entered from the sides of the cars. The third- 
 class cars are frequently built without these parti- 
 tions, and their seats are not upholstered. Smok- 
 ing is allowed on all the cars, except two or three 
 compartments on each train, which are reserved 
 for ladies. The fares on express-trains are con- 
 siderably higher than on the slower trains, and 
 you will generally find the latter the more satis- 
 factory, as enabling you to see the country more 
 leisurely. Many very respectable people travel 
 third-class, and about three fourths of every train 
 is composed of such cars. I do not think that 
 
Europe for %1 a Day. 53 
 
 the lower classes travel so much in Europe as in 
 America ; and the train-guards are usually vigi- 
 lant to prevent an}^ trouble among the passengers. 
 In collecting the tickets the guards pass along a 
 narrow single-board platform alongside and out- 
 side of the cars, appearing at each window to take 
 the fares in the compartments. There is usually 
 some one smoking in every third-class car (and in 
 Germany clouds of smoke are often made by the 
 formidable china pipes of the Teutonic voyagers), 
 but there is very little tobacco-chewing, and con- 
 sequently we find but few of the nauseating quali- 
 ties of an American smoking-car. The presence 
 also of ladies and '' religious " in these cars exerts 
 somewhat of a restraining influence. You should 
 get on the train as soon as it enters the station, 
 in order to secure a seat by the window, for the 
 sake of light, air, and the scenery. In this man- 
 ner I traversed the Continent, — with the wall 
 and window on one side, and on the other my va- 
 lise, serving as an arm-rest and as a separation 
 from other passengers. With guide-book, field- 
 glass, and other conveniences at hand, wrapped in 
 
54 Europe for $ 2 a Day. 
 
 an overcoat if the day was chilly, beguiling long 
 rides by communion with the pipe, and all the 
 while observing picturesque or otherwise interest- 
 ing scenery, — what could have been more snug 
 and satisfactory 1 The annoying hoodlums who 
 pass through our cars flinging into one's lap prize- 
 packages, Ned-Buntline literature, and dyspeptic 
 candy, are not seen over there ; but at many of 
 the stations boj^s and women walk along the plat- 
 forms wdth daintily neat baskets of fruit, sand- 
 wiches, or wines, which are sold very cheaply. 
 The European railroads have either more rolling- 
 stock or fewer passengers than American lines, for 
 their cars are rarely filled, and I have ridden for 
 hundreds of miles the sole occupant of a compart- 
 ment. The Americans have lately introduced 
 Pullman cars on several of the main routes in 
 Europe, and I should imagine that it would be 
 delightful to contemplate Lake Thrasymene or 
 the passes of the Juras through their broad plate- 
 glass windows, reclining in luxurious easy-chairs. 
 But w^e can, perhaps, get enough of plate-glass 
 and upholstered luxury when we reach home ; we 
 can't afford it over there. 
 
Europe for 1 2 a Day, 55 
 
 You will prefer to travel by day-trains, in order 
 to see the country, and to get views of the cities 
 and castles that you pass. Some of the flat and 
 uninteresting regions of France and Germany may 
 just as well be traversed by night, in w^hich case 
 (since the night-trains are but little patronized) 
 you can generally lie out at full length on the 
 8-foot seat, with your valise for a pillow, and an 
 overcoat for a wrapper, and sleep comfortably. 
 
 In the first-class and second-class cars one will 
 find patricians and snobs, and the latter outnum- 
 ber the former everywhere, about as copper coin 
 outnumbers gold pieces. In the height of the 
 season, on the main routes, one can hardly enter a 
 second-class car without finding either Englishmen 
 or Americans, the latter being as distinguished for 
 their noisy conversation as the former are for 
 their grim taciturnity. An increasing number of 
 tourists are resorting to the third-class cars ; and 
 here you will find the common people of the coun- 
 try, and can study their peculiarities. The most 
 interesting railroad - ride I ever took w^as from 
 Alexandria to Cairo, when my companions were 
 
56 Europe for 1 2 a Day, 
 
 gaunt and half-clad Arabs, dark Copts, Nubian 
 soldiers, and aristocratic Moslems in brilliant robes 
 and sashes. 
 
 In making excursions by rail from a city which 
 is temporarily your headquarters, you can gen- 
 erally effect a considerable saving by buying 
 round-trip tickets. This is especially the case 
 in Great Britain, and is advantageously applied 
 in visiting the outer environs of London and the 
 midland and Scottish cities. 
 
 7. Of Steamboats and their Arrangements. 
 
 The only choice is generally between the cabin 
 and the deck, which are separated by a wide 
 margin of expense. If you do not go beyond 
 Europe, you W'ill have but little occasion to travel 
 by watei', and then, as on the Khine, the Swiss 
 lakes, or the Danube, you will doubtless be better 
 pleased to take a cabin-passage, so that you can 
 enjoy the surrounding scenery under every advan- 
 tage. But if Egypt and the East are included 
 in your pilgrimage, the question of traiisi)ortation 
 
Europe for %1 a Day. 57 
 
 by water becomes a serious one. You are then 
 forced to take a deck-passage, or else raise your 
 expenses to an alarming height. Now then for 
 another bit of personal experience. I had reached 
 Naples, which was the end of my tour as origi- 
 nally planned, and was preparing to return up 
 the Italian peninsula. But Egypt, Jerusalem, 
 Constantinople, Athens, the classic isles of the 
 Archipelago, tke mysterious shores of Asia Minor, 
 drew me with an attraction that was absolutely 
 irresistible. In order to make this extraordinary 
 journey, I must practise new economies, foremost 
 of which was that of travelling on deck instead 
 of in the cabin. I decided to face any trials 
 which might come, in order to see the ancient 
 cities of the East, and I enjoyed more and learned 
 more during my 18 weeks' tour in the East than 
 in all the rest of my journey. I sailed 28 days 
 on the Mediterranean, /Egean, and Adriatic, dur- 
 ing which time the fare cost $ 45. The route 
 was from Syracuse (in Sicily) to Malta, Alexan- 
 dria, Beyrout, and Jaffa; from Beyrout to Smyr- 
 na, Rhodes, and Constantinople ; from Constanti- 
 3* 
 
58 Europe for $ 2 « Day. 
 
 iiople to Syra and Athens (Pirseus) ; from Athens 
 to Corinth, Corfu, and Brindisi. The journey was 
 made during the winter and spring, but entailed 
 no hardship, for the air was not harsh. Lying on 
 the deck, with the stars overhead, a vah"se for a 
 pillow, an overcoat for a wrapper, it was perfect 
 poetry to feel the good ship plunging through the 
 Mediterranean, to hear her cordage whistling, to 
 watch the constellations, to think of the voyages 
 of Jason and Ulysses, Paul and Augustine, the 
 Crusaders, the Moslems, and the llhodian knights ; 
 and then to be rocked into a dreamless sleep, 
 awaking at dawn to find Patmos under the lee, 
 or Olympus on the starboard bow. The curiosity 
 and generosity of sailors will soon become appar- 
 ent to you on these voyages. The captain of the 
 steamship Egyptian interviewed me before we had 
 been out of Malta an hour, and had my baggage 
 taken to his cabin, where I remained for five days, 
 giving a dubious recompense by teaching him 
 the mysteries of euchre. The first officer of 
 the Venus, a bluff old Dalmatian sea-wolf, was 
 filled with amazement to see a young man from 
 
Europe for %2 a Day. 59 
 
 the other side of the world sleeping in the cold 
 night-winds off Scio and Cj^prus, and living on 
 bread and cheese, just for the sake of " seeing the 
 world." He offered me a place to sleep between 
 decks, but I thought that the proposal had too 
 much pity in it, and preferred to air my pride 
 on the capstan-deck. Nowhere else can you meet 
 such picturesque fellow-travellers as on the Levant 
 steamers at the times of the Moslem and Chris- 
 tian pilgrimages. Besides the uniformly dressed 
 citizens of every nation west of the Danube, there 
 were the quaint costumes and faces of almost every 
 nation in Western Asia or Northern Africa, — 
 brilliantly dressed Hungarians and Greeks, shab- 
 by Russian pilgrims, savage Koords, fur-crowned 
 Persians, long-robed Armenians, saturnine Copts, 
 prosperous Turks, and Arabs and Syrians of 
 various tribes. All these were on deck, pro- 
 vided with carpets and rugs on which they sat 
 cross-legged, passing the day in smoking slowly 
 from great narghilehs, or in drinking black cof- 
 fee from diminutive cups. The Christians spent 
 much time with their rosaries and breviaries, and 
 
60 Europe for 1 2 a Day. 
 
 five times a day the Moslems arranged their car- 
 pets and made long prayers, bowing toward Mecca 
 with unerring accuracy. The only apparently 
 irreligious people on board were the cultured 
 Britons and Americans in the cabin, who watched 
 the fearless prayers of the Orientals with patron- 
 izing pity. 
 
 8. Of Baggage. 
 
 To travel through Europe with a trunk would 
 greatly increase your expenses and anxieties. You 
 should get a light, strong valise, well made and 
 secure, and of some stiff substance, in order that 
 fragile things may not be broken by outside press- 
 ure. Such a valise will also serve better for an 
 arm-rest in the cars, a writing-table on the steam- 
 ers, or a pillow (since it will not torment jonv 
 head with the protuberances of the packing). It 
 is imperatively necessary that it shall be kept 
 light, for you will sometimes have to carry it a 
 long way to find a hotel. If you only intend to 
 spend a few hours in a city, it is best to leave it 
 with the baggage-master at the station, who will 
 
Europe for 1 2 « Bay. 61 
 
 take care of it for a small fee. The system of 
 checking baggage is unknown in Euroije, and your 
 impedimenta can only be sent from point to point 
 by having it marked. This mode of despatch is 
 uncertain and insecure, and it will be much safer 
 to carry your baggage with you. I lost my valise 
 at Brussels, and only recovered it eight months 
 later, at Florence, after sending many letters and 
 telegrams. When you have accumulated several 
 pounds of old guide-books, souvenirs, and photo- 
 graphs, it is best to make them into a bundle 
 which may be sent home, or to your banker in 
 London, to be called for on your return. I de- 
 spatched three boxes of superfluous items of this 
 character, on Boston ships sailing from Mediterra- 
 nean ports, and thus kept in light marching order. 
 An extra pound or two of baggage will especially 
 tell against you on a j^edestrian tour. In such a 
 journey you should express your valise to the city 
 where you propose to end the walk, and content 
 yourself with a few necessaries carried in a light 
 game-bag slung haversack-wise over the shoulder. 
 The heavy and capacious knapsacks, once so popu- 
 
G2 Europe for $2 a Day. 
 
 lar among pedestrians, have been discarded, to a 
 great extent, as cumbrous, ungraceful, and weari- 
 some to the shoulders. You will not need a large 
 supply of linen, as you can' have such clothing 
 done up and returned in twelve hours, at the 
 hotels ; and as to the outer garments, you would 
 probably carry no duplicates. 
 
 Baggage is of course examined at every frontier, 
 by the custom-house officers, but the inspection is 
 usually of the most superficial character, and will 
 not detain you five minutes. It is prudent to 
 Iiave your valise open when you reach the frontier- 
 station, because if you cause the officers delay and 
 trouble they will be apt to reciprocate, and they 
 are quite able to do so. 
 
 9. About Money ^ and how to carry it. 
 
 I would strongly advise the tourist to carry his 
 money in the form of a letter of credit. By this 
 means, you can draw whatever sums you need, in 
 almost any city of Europe or the Levant, and do 
 not run the risk of losing mucli ready money. If 
 
Europe for 1 2 a Day. 63 
 
 you cliance to lose the letter you can stop its pay- 
 ment by prompt action. Your letters can also be 
 sent to you at the bankers' offices in the cities of 
 your destination, where they will be held for you, 
 or remailed at your order. There are also various 
 small courtesies which you can get through the 
 bankers, and which sometimes prove quite valua- 
 ble. 1 have known men to take out enough 
 money for a month's expenses, making arrange- 
 ments to have more forwarded to them from 
 America when they should need it ; and those 
 poor fellows have had to wait for weeks, in utter 
 idleness, in the remote cities where they had 
 oi'dered their drafts sent, on account of some mis- 
 calculations. Of such was I, who was, by such 
 accidents, compelled to pass forty-five hours in 
 London without a morsel to eat, to dwell in Jeru- 
 salem three weeks with less than a dollar in my 
 purse, and to live for five weeks, in Florence, on 
 $18. I have seen Americans reduced to prac- 
 tical beggary by the non-arrival (in due time) 
 of money, and one always has a feeling of vague 
 uneasiness until his new draft arrives. It is 
 
64 , Uurojje for ^ 2 a Day. 
 
 tlicrcfore better for the tourist to raise all the 
 money he can, and buy a letter of credit of some 
 reputable banker. 
 
 In passing from one country to another, try to 
 avoid carrying any money of the first into the 
 second, for heavy discounts are sometimes charged. 
 The English sovereign and the French twenty- 
 franc piece are good throughout Europe and the 
 East, — the latter being the most widely knowui. 
 The paper currencies of Austria and Italy are 
 especially difficult to negotiate in other countries. 
 
 Your mone}^ will generall}^ be in coin, and 
 should be carefully guarded. You will sometimes 
 sleep in the cars, and sometimes in other public 
 places, or will be entangled in large crowds. The 
 thieves and pickpockets of the Continental nations 
 are reported to be less dexterous than their Anglo- 
 American brethren, but it is as well to be on )''our 
 guard, in view of the distress to which you would 
 be reduced by losing your money. The best safe- 
 guard is a small pocket on the inside of your un- 
 dershirt, buttoning at the top, and firmly sewed. 
 On retiring at night, and sometimes in dangerous 
 
Europe for $ 2 a Dcnj. 65 
 
 places by day, you can put your watch and purse 
 into this receptacle, whence they cannot be drawn 
 without your knowledge. It is of course always 
 important to have a sufficiency of small silver and 
 copper coins in your pocket to meet current de- 
 mands. 
 
 Above all, don't go to Europe until you have 
 enough money in hand to make a satisfactory tour, 
 and don't remain there until you have n't enough 
 left to get home with. There are many Americans 
 now in Europe who have gone there without cer- 
 tain resources or definite purposes, and who have 
 become unprincipled adventurers. Others, too 
 proud or too honorable for such courses, yearning 
 for a sight of the Old World, yet unable to see 
 their way clear to visit it comfortably, and hoping 
 that something might turn up there, have crossed 
 the ocean only to meet with sufferings and humili- 
 ations which they never can forget, and to return 
 home in ignominy. American consuls and resi- 
 dents in the Italian cities have told me piteous 
 stories of the scores of friendless and penniless 
 
 E 
 
66 Europe for %'l a Day. 
 
 countrymen who have appeared (vainly) before 
 them; and many a cultured but improvident 
 youth has left America full of hope and with all 
 the divine poetry of life in his heart, and has been 
 sent back working before the mast among the 
 brutal sailors of some Mediterranean petroleum- 
 ship. It is only a few weeks since an American 
 charitable society in Paris sent to our shores 
 several penniless and suffering compatriots, and 
 numerous others were sujDpliants for a like com- 
 passion. But before even such relief as the fore- 
 castle-passage or the steerage-ticket comes, what 
 insults and neglect, what heart-sinking and physi- 
 cal deprivations, must one suffer. And even such 
 aid cannot always be had (for our people abroad 
 have been sorely taxed by their waifs and strays), 
 and then you are left — to starve, perhaps. Better 
 remain for a lifetime in some prosy but peaceful 
 New England Naguadavick. 
 
 It is important to remember that the prices of 
 the necessities of life — food, clothing, etc. — have 
 
Europe for $2 a Bay. 67 
 
 risen very much in Europe since the costly wars 
 of 1866 and 1870. Nearly all Western Europe 
 was engaged in either or both of these wars, and 
 the resultant taxation meets you in hotel bills, 
 railroad fares, and everything else. The experi- 
 ences of Bayard Taylor, Ralph Keeler, and others 
 will therefore be of no value to you in indicating 
 your possible expenses. The hotels, etc., on the 
 main routes of travel have also been encouraged 
 to raise their rates by the lavish and gratified ex- 
 penditures of a certain class of wealthy Americans 
 and British manufacturers. 
 
 10. Of Buying Goods Wiseli/. 
 
 The main thing to do in buying goods is to 
 conceal your nationality. Assume the provincial 
 and drawling London idiom of the great Anglo- 
 American language, and interject the irrelevant 
 but rigidly Anglican "Yon know" and "D'ye 
 see " into your sentences. The nearer approach 
 you can make to the local languages while on the 
 Continent, the cheaper you can get goods. The 
 
G8 FAtrope for %1 a Day. 
 
 British and German shopkeepers need generally 
 to be watched, because they will take advantage 
 of you if they can (just as we do of each other, 
 when we get a chance). I believe that the retail 
 merchants of London and Berlin are as straight- 
 forward as those of New York and Boston. But 
 in Paris and Vienna you must be continually on 
 your guard against the most outrageous gouges, 
 conducted, too, by the most bland and seductive 
 salesmen. In Italy and the Levant mercantile 
 rapacity becomes truly formidable, and the shop- 
 men of the towns rival the banditti of the hills. 
 In Naples, Cairo, or Constantinople you will be 
 charged three or four times the true value of 
 goods ; and since even that exaggerated sum is less 
 than the prices of similar articles in the United 
 States, many of our express-train tourists are under 
 the impression that they are getting bargains. The 
 best mode of procedure is to find the real value of 
 the things you wish to buy, and then offer that 
 amount, regardless of the dealer's exorbitant de- 
 mand, and refusing to compromise. He will scout 
 the idea of reducing his price, will display the 
 
Europe for %1 a Day. 69 
 
 goods ill the best light, will accuse you of trying 
 to ruin his family, and will come down slowly, a 
 franc at a time. By the time you have become 
 thoroughly irritated and turn to leave the shop, 
 he will wrap up the articles, with a resigned and 
 reproachful air, and will take your offer and a 
 clear profit of 20 or 30 per cent. The Mediterra- 
 nean traders must take us for a nation of princes 
 or of fools, for they would fairly empty our purses 
 for their trumpery laces and jewelry, if we did not 
 watch them closely. My comrade and myself vis- 
 ited a silk-shop in the Constantinople Bazaar, and 
 laid out a small lot of trifles in Persian and Turk- 
 ish wares. The dealer added up their prices and 
 stated that they came to 700 francs, but, in con- 
 sideration, etc., he would put the bill at 650 
 francs. We offered 150 francs, and for a while 
 it seemed as if that Oriental merchant was either 
 about to commit hari-kari or to offer us up as a 
 grateful sacrifice to his Prophet. We protested 
 that we had n't money to throw away in such a 
 manner ; but he answered, with Eastern imagery, 
 "When Americans have no monej^ the sea will 
 
70 Europe for ^2 a Day. 
 
 have 110 water " (which seems to be the general 
 behef around the Midland Sea). After about an 
 hour of contest between Turkish volubility and 
 Anglo-Saxon imperturbability, he wrapped up the 
 goods for our price, and we were afterwards as- 
 sured by old Constantinopolitans that he had 
 beaten us out of 50 francs, even then. The coral 
 jewellers of Naples, the mother-of-pearl dealers of 
 Jerusalem, the Cairene bazaar-merchants, all carry 
 on business in the same manner. Guides, drag- 
 omans, escorts, and even hotel-keepers do the 
 same, and more than once have I ridden through 
 Syrian villages with revolver in hand, followed 
 by a hundred howling Arabs, because I would 
 not pay Tremont-House prices for the privilege 
 of having slept on a stone floor, upholstered with 
 fleas, and a breakfast of sanded bread and sour 
 goat's-milk. 
 
 11. Of Clothing. 
 
 Of course you will dress plainly and well, with 
 constant care to be adapted to the weather wher- 
 ever you may be. For a year's use you will need 
 
Europe for 1 2 a Bay. 71 
 
 two suits and a comfortable overcoat, all of which 
 you can get for % 60, together with a sufficiency of 
 other clothing, linen, etc. The most serviceable 
 material is the gray or brown cheviot or tweed, 
 which you can get to great advantage in Edin- 
 burgh or London. A good suit of this material 
 will be made to your order for from $ 10 to 
 $ 15, and will wear like iron. For the travel- 
 ler, and especially for the pedestrian, the pea- 
 jacket is much more serviceable than a coat of 
 any other shape. It should be made with several 
 pockets, one of which should be large enough to 
 contain a guide-book. In your rambles about the 
 European cities and Syrian rural districts, you 
 will want to carry your guide-book, note-book, 
 pipe-case, opera-glass (revolver sometimes), and 
 you will of course wish to keep your hands free. 
 The presence of a guide-book in your hand will 
 often subject you to serious annoyance (especially 
 in the Mediterranean countries), for it will draw 
 down the importunities of scores of would-be 
 guides, commissionaires J and vociferous beggars. 
 You can usually recognize new tourists, British 
 
72 Europe for %2 a Day. 
 
 or American, by the red books in their hands or 
 the field-glass strapped on their backs. In this 
 regard, as well as in others, the nearer you can 
 make your personal appearance coincide with that 
 of the natives, the less you will be annoyed by 
 the classes who live by preying on travellers. In 
 Switzerland you will see artistic mountain cos- 
 tumes, belted shooting-jackets, leggins, hobnailed 
 shoes, etc., even on the downy-lipped Anglican 
 youth whose highest ascent is from the hotel 
 ballroom to his sixth-story bedroom. In the 
 Mediterranean countries most tourists (during 
 the hot seasons) wear veils of blue or white 
 muslin wreathed about their hats, to deaden the 
 attack of the sun's rays. These veils are artis- 
 tically arranged, and make a pretty piece of mil- 
 linery for the " nice young fellow " class of men. 
 
 12. Of Photographs for Mementos. 
 
 You cannot spend the same amount of money 
 more advantageously than in the purchase of 
 photographs of scenery, buildings, and statuary. 
 
Europe for %1 a Day. 73 
 
 Stereoscopic views are especially to be commended 
 as souvenirs, on account of the vividness with 
 which they bring back the actual appearance of 
 things, not picture-like, but standing out in ap- 
 parent relief. There is nothing which aids your 
 memories of the Old World so well as these 
 pictures, by whose help you may revisit the 
 cherished scenes which you would not forget. 
 Sometimes, when you have grown weary of the 
 restless whirl of American life and its annihilat- 
 ing activities, you can take your pictures and 
 diaries, on a quiet Sunday afternoon, and quickly 
 forget the rasping demands and worrying compe- 
 titions of trade. I brought home over 700 pic- 
 tures (mostly stereoscopic vieW's), representing 
 every country between Scotland and Armenia, 
 and they enable me to take many a cosey and 
 inexpensive little tour abroad, though my physi- 
 cal self does not stir from its snug quarters near 
 Boston Common. 
 
 In some parts of Europe photographs are ex- 
 pensive, but in Italy, at least, they are good and 
 cheap. G. W. Wilson, of Aberdeen, Scotland, 
 4 
 
74 Europe for $ 2 a Day, 
 
 makes the richest and most artistic views I have 
 ever seen. They are of British subjects, and cost 
 about $ 3 a dozen. You should not fail to get a 
 few of his stereogi'aphs of the Scottish lakes and 
 the English cathedrals. There are shops on St. 
 Mark's Square, at Venice, where the most beau- 
 tiful Venetian and North-Italian views are ex- 
 hibited in great variety and at very reasonable 
 prices. Giorgio Sommer, of Naples, has the lar- 
 gest assortment of views of Central and Southern 
 Italy, bright in tone and skilful in disposition. 
 He has thousands of different stereographs, rep- 
 resenting the palaces, churches, monuments, ruins, 
 and museum-curiosities of the cities, and the finest 
 bits of natural scenery. His price is 80 cents a 
 dozen. Constantin (of Athens) has the best 
 assortment of Athenian and Grecian views. I 
 met with no really pleasing pictures of Syrian 
 or Egyptian buildings and scenery ; and Dumas, 
 the French photographer at Beyrout, assured me 
 that the peculiar characters of the air and light 
 render it impossible to get satisfactory effects. 
 It is safe to be somewhat suspicious of the 
 
Europe for %1 a Day. 75 
 
 cheap lots of photographs which you will fre- 
 quently meet, especially at Rome and Paris. 
 Sometimes, after you have had such pictures a 
 year or two, they will begin to fade and grow 
 blurred, or will assume a disagreeable reddish 
 tint, indicating that the finishing processes were 
 not properly performed. 
 
 IS. Of Circulating Libraries, Cheap Boohs, etc. 
 
 Circulating libraries may be found in many of 
 the chief cities, where you can have access to 
 a large assortment of English books, generally 
 in the domain of light literature. By paying 
 a small sum weekly or monthly and leaving a 
 security deposit, you can have the privilege of 
 taking books home. Many times, after days of 
 hard work at sight-seeing, you will not feel any 
 enthusiasm over the idea of going home to 
 WTite or study ; nor have you energy enough 
 to go out to the theatre or other entertainments. 
 It is then quite pleasant to settle down in a 
 cosey chair and read some bright novel or inter- 
 
76 Europe for $2 a Day. 
 
 esting book of travels. On stormy and tempest- 
 uous days, also, when the mind is sometimes too 
 much chilled to work, you can often save yourself 
 from the blues by becoming absorbed in con- 
 genial light reading. You can also get many 
 valuable ideas by consulting the books of travels 
 and history relative to the countries which you 
 are next about to visit. Among the libraries to 
 which I became a subscriber were those of Galig- 
 nani, at Paris j Piale, at Rome ; two very good 
 ones in Florence and Milan; and Shapira, at 
 Jerusalem. The latter has a large collection of 
 the Tauchnitz reprints of British w^orks, and 
 they will stand you in good stead in a city 
 where it is always very uncomfortable and often 
 perilous to go out after dark. 
 
 Yon can also buy almost any kind of books at 
 the second-hand shops for a mere trifle, and, since 
 you onl}^ care to read them and then throw them 
 away, this mode of acquisition will often be use- 
 ful. The riverfront of the Latin Quarter, at 
 Paris, is lined with such shops, where scores of 
 thousands of volumes are displayed, with marked 
 
Europe for $ 2 a Bay, 77 
 
 prices ; and, if you care to pull over books amid 
 which constant surprises await you, you may 
 spend many pleasant hours on the quays of the 
 Seine. There are similar shops in the German 
 and Italian cities, where great bargains may often 
 be made. My comrade bought the four illus- 
 trated volumes of Eustace's " Classical Tour of 
 Italy," at a book-stall in Naples, for fifty cents. 
 
 The shilling editions of the British classic au- 
 thors may also be of great service to you, filling 
 up many an otherwise idle or dismal hour with 
 pleasant thoughts drawn from the best sources. 
 They are compact and in fine print, unsuitable 
 for railroad reading, yet very good companions on 
 a sea or lake voyage. 
 
 But you should be careful not to read too 
 much. While light literature is such a pleasant 
 friend during otherwise idle hours, it often fasci- 
 nates one into encroachments on more valuable 
 time. The works of Thackeray in Mr. Shapira's 
 library beguiled me into spending many precious 
 morning hours over their sparkling pages. I 
 indeed saw all of Jerusalem and its environs tw^o 
 
78 Euroin for %2 a Day. 
 
 or three times over j but if that hbrary had not 
 been there I sliould have seen it four or five 
 times over. Every gate and street would then 
 have been permanently impressed in memory, and 
 I could have read "Vanity Fair" just as well at 
 Nahant. I bought Oliver Goldsmith's complete 
 works at Malta for twenty-five cents, and enjoyed 
 them very much for two months or more ; but I 
 read " The Citizen of the World " with absorbing 
 interest while our steamer was passing through 
 the Greek Archipelago, and doubtless lost the 
 sight of several interesting islands. Thus I 
 gave up mauy hours to irrelevant reading which 
 should have been devoted to careful observa- 
 tion, and you will do the same if you don't look 
 out. 
 
 Neivspapers. — The chief papers of England and 
 Scotland are nearly as good as those of New York 
 and Boston; but the Continental press is less 
 ably conducted. The jiapers are small and very 
 numerous, and their prices are low. You will be 
 interested in reading them, to get an idea of 
 European politics and national questions. lu 
 
Europe for 1 2 a Day. 79 
 
 Paris the extremes of the scale are VOrdre (Bo- 
 napartist) and Le Rappel (communist) ; and in 
 Rome, La Roma Gapitale (radical) is confronted 
 by Z' Osservatore Romano (Papal). Very little 
 mention is ever made of American affairs, — not 
 more, for instance, than the New York papers 
 give to Uruguay or Newfoundland. There are 
 several papers published on the Continent for 
 the benefit of Anglo-American tourists (American 
 Register, Stviss Times, etc.), from which you can 
 glean many useful items and interesting summa- 
 ries of American events. 
 
 14- Of American Consuls and their Powers. 
 
 Many people think that the powers and re- 
 sources of American consuls are far more exten- 
 sive than they really are. For instance, if you 
 are out of money and wish pecuniary aid or to be 
 sent home, your first thought, induced no doubt 
 by incorrect information previously received, is of 
 the American consul, and you may hope great 
 things from his aid. In point of fact, however. 
 
80 Europe for %1 a Bay. 
 
 there is no fund or provision made by our govern- 
 ment for any such cases, and its officers can there- 
 fore do nothing ex officio. Our diplomatic agents 
 generally get small salaries, and are men of slen- 
 der estate, and can rarely aid strangers on their 
 own account, especially in view of the number of 
 Americans who are dead-heading through Europe. 
 Sometimes, in the ports of the sea, consuls can 
 assist empty-handed compatriots to get opportuni- 
 ties to work their passage home, but even this is 
 a slender chance. 
 
 Many of the consuls are pleasant and gentle- 
 manly persons, a fact which is somewhat remark- 
 able, in view of the manner in which the civil and 
 diplomatic service of the United States is con- 
 ducted. But the salaries paid to our agents in 
 the minor ports and cities are too small to render 
 them objects of desire for the ward-room politi- 
 cians who expect rewards, and hardly enough to 
 pay for the wear and tear of the bunting over the 
 official doors. 
 
 The consuls in some of the chief cities are 
 continiially annoyed by Americans who make the 
 
Europe for |2 « Day. 81 
 
 most extraordinary requests of them, — that they 
 would find missing baggage, aid them in securing 
 lodgings, force extortionate bills to be cut down, 
 and other absurd things. The actual and obliga- 
 tory duties of the chief consuls are onerous enough 
 to occupy all their time, without foisting extra 
 labors upon them. Most of these things are such 
 as do not enter into their regular duties, and are 
 usually spoken of as extra-official courtesies. The 
 consuls, by their knowledge of the languages and 
 customs of the countries to which they are accred- 
 ited, may often be of great service to you with 
 little trouble on their part, but it is better to 
 avoid intruding too many of your petty griev- 
 ances upon their notice. Two or three of these 
 gentlemen told me that they received their great- 
 est annoyance from American ladies, who seemed 
 to regard them as father, brother, husband, and 
 son united, and ex officio. The latest American 
 newspapers may generally be found at the con- 
 sulates, and in many of the minor cities you will 
 find diplomatic agents with whom you can pass 
 pleasant hours of social intercourse. 
 
 4* F 
 
82 Europe for %'l a Bay. 
 
 15. Of Fees and Gratuities. 
 
 Under this head will come one of your most 
 formidable lines of expense. Fees are demanded 
 everywhere, — at picture-galleries, museums, pal- 
 aces, cascades, veiled pictures in churches, tombs, 
 ruins, — almost every object of interest is sealed 
 unless you can pay a fee to some janitor or custo- 
 dian. You may have read the gi-and appeal made 
 by Oliver Goldsmith to the British government 
 that this tax might be abolished in Westminster 
 Abbey, but it was in vain ; you still have to pay 
 a beggarly sixpence in order to visit the tombs of 
 the British kings. It costs 87 cents to explore 
 St. Paul's Cathedral in London ; $ 1.87 to see the 
 curiosities in the Cologne Cathedral ; $ 1.12 at the 
 Aix-la-Chapelle Cathedral ; and so on. Many of 
 these fees are in the nature of gratuities, whose 
 bestowal is purely voluntary; but you will feel 
 very uncomfortable if you omit them, provided 
 you are endowed with ordinary pride and sense 
 of generosity. In the early part of my tour I re- 
 solved to economize by withholding some of the 
 
Europe for %'l a Day. 83 
 
 unenforced fees from these pam2:)ered guardians of 
 the pubhc treasures. My first and last attempt 
 in this direction was at Chester Cathedral, where 
 I alone, of a party of six, omitted to give the 
 verger a gratuity. His complex look of astonish- 
 ment, sorrow, pity, and mild resentment haunted 
 me for months, and prevented any future attempt 
 of a similar character. Always after that I paid 
 the prices as stated in the Baedeker guide-books. 
 You w^ill not have time enough to visit all the 
 picture-galleries, museums, church - towers, and 
 tombs, and many of them wdll not repay you, be- 
 ing similar to so many others which you have seen. 
 It will always be an important question, whoso 
 decision will require much study of guide-books, 
 as to which of the sights of a given city or coun- 
 try you shall visit, and which you shall pass by. 
 The limits of your time will force you to ignore 
 many of these attractions, and as for others, they 
 lack distinctive features of interest to demand 
 your attention. Out of a dozen galleries in Vien- 
 na, you may not care to explore more than two or 
 three, for the others will be found to contain what, 
 
84 J^urope for $ 2 a Day. 
 
 to an unprofessional eye, are not more attractive 
 than so many duplicate pictures. In Paris you 
 can pay fees at the Arc de I'Etoile, the Tour St. 
 Jacques, the Column Vendome, or the Pantheon 
 dome in order to get a view of the city, — but one 
 of these points is quite sufficient to give you the 
 desired panorama. And so throughout the tour, 
 you will be forced to exercise continual discretion 
 as to how best to utilize your time as well as 
 money. The custom of feeing has become such a 
 fixture that it cannot be disregarded, and it has 
 some foundation in equity, withal. I should say 
 that $ 75 would be a very moderate estimate for 
 this item of expense during the year. If you have 
 one or more companions, the cost is much reduced, 
 as the janitors find it as easy to conduct a small 
 party as a single person. 
 
 16. Of Companions. 
 
 The expense of two comrades is much less than 
 double that of one person, because they can divide 
 the cost of guides, fees, carriages, rooms, and 
 
Europe for %1 a Day. 85 
 
 many other needful things. They also afford 
 much assistance and oftentimes protection to each 
 other, and can confederate their strength, strategy, 
 or money in frequent instances. But the main 
 value of a comrade is for society, for fraternal in- 
 tercourse, while in a land of strangers. You can 
 scarcely imagine how heavily a sense of solitude 
 and loneliness will sometimes settle down on the 
 unattended traveller in foreign cities, obscuring 
 the glories of art and architecture, and rendering 
 life miserable. The acutest forms of nostalgia 
 will oftentimes ensue, depriving the victim of am- 
 bition and hope, and directing all his thoughts 
 back on America. But where two young men 
 can travel together, cheering and inciting each 
 other, planning and working in unison, there is 
 far less danger of the attacks of homesickness. 
 The thoughts of home will come as a sweet mem- 
 ory or a bright anticipation, but no longer as a 
 devouring malady. 
 
 Comrades should be congenial in many points, 
 and equally matched in powers of endurance. It 
 would be well if they had been previously inti- 
 
86 Europe for $ 2 a Day. 
 
 mate, either in the same social circles, or in the 
 same college-classes, so that they might have 
 points of common interest and memory. Deliver 
 yourself from a young man who is betrothed or 
 has lately been married, for these gentry are 
 apt to have melancholy spells, and to indulge in 
 frequent wishes that Sophronia were with them. 
 They are also liable to cut off their journey in 
 mid-career and to hasten home at all speed. I 
 had three such for temporary comrades, but they 
 all fell away, more attracted by the memory of a 
 gossamer robe 5,000 miles away than by all the 
 regalia and palaces of Europe. I also travelled, 
 at different times, with several gentlemen of ma- 
 turer matrimonial experience, but they seemed in 
 no manner of hurry to shorten their tour from 
 family considerations. 
 
 Having made out a careful (but flexible) plan of 
 tour, it will not always be easy for two comrades 
 to agree on its details, even to the days' rambles 
 in the cities. A generous sjjirit of concession on 
 both sides must then be cultivated, but it should 
 not be carried too fjxr, in causing you to neglect 
 
Europe for 1 2 a Day. 87 
 
 important objects of interest. I have still to re- 
 gret having lost the sight of more than a score of 
 interesting cities by conforming to the solicitations 
 of travelling companions. My taste for exploring 
 remote provincial towns and sequestered rural 
 valleys was not shared by any one whom I met, 
 and I was finally obliged to cut loose from my 
 friends in several cases, leaving them in the me- 
 tropolis, w^hile 1 rambled through the outer dis- 
 tricts. After a brief tour in Scotland, I separated 
 from the friend who had crossed the ocean with 
 me, since his tastes led him to Germany and my 
 aspirations were for Italy. Afterwards I had vari- 
 ous American companions, met by chance on the 
 way, with whom most of the tour was passed. 
 Among them was a Puritan clergyman of the old 
 school, from the hill-countiy of Massachusetts ; a 
 merry secularist from the Middle States, who had 
 built a railroad in Germany, and was endeavoring 
 to secure a contract from the Italian government 
 to unbury Pompeii ; a Confederate refugee, self- 
 exiled, because he w^ould not live in America 
 " under a military despotism " ; and a Scottish 
 
88 Europe for $ 2 a Day. 
 
 soldier of fortune, who had lived twenty-eight 
 years away from the British Isles, and hud been 
 tutor to the Roumanian princes, and a resident in 
 Algiers and Tunis. We only parted company when 
 he secured a position as preceptor to the children 
 of the Prince of the Lebanon, in a grim old castle- 
 palace far back among the mountains. So you will 
 meet many interesting people, rare types of char- 
 acter, whose study will afford unceasing interest. 
 
 I have heard old travellers say that one of the 
 best modes of insuring economy is to avoid Amer- 
 icans, and there is much force in the remark. 
 Especially if you meet comj)atriots wdth full 
 purses, will your expenditures be increased ; for 
 if you like them, you will be tempted to travel 
 as they do. The inexplicable pride which is the 
 bane of our society, leading on to lavish expendi- 
 tures from slender purses in order to keep up 
 appearances, will manifest itself in your inter- 
 course with wealthier compatriots abroad. If you 
 associate with them, there will be many an item 
 of carriage-hire, first-class hotel bill, jewelry, and 
 articles of luxury, whose record in your cash- 
 
Europe for |2 a Day, 89 
 
 account will make you wince. I travelled with a 
 pecunious young New-Yorker among the North- 
 Italian lakes at the rate of $ 5 a day ; and was , 
 unfortunate enough to become acquainted with 
 an officer of the Coldstream Guards, while making 
 the tour of the Alsace-Lorraine battle-fields, and 
 increased my expenses threefold. You can scarcely 
 ask these born-to-the-purple youths to travel in 
 your frugal way ; of course you would scorn to 
 accept any aid of a pecuniary character from 
 them ; and you cannot afford to go in their man- 
 ner, — so it is best to avoid them on long tours. 
 If you have a small party of kindred spirits and 
 equal resources, you can enjoy the very best phase 
 of foreign life ; but here again you must beware, 
 lest you become a little America among your- 
 selves, and neglect to study the people and phe- 
 nomena among which you are placed. My com- 
 rade and myself wei-e urged to visit a certain club 
 in Rome, on the ground that we would see many 
 Americans there. " See Americans ! " answered 
 bluff old Stuart. *' I can see enough of them at 
 home. I am here to see Romans." In the chief 
 
90 Europe for %'l a Day, 
 
 European cities there are complete microcosms of 
 Anglo-American society, and if you are drawn into 
 their quiet circles, you will have a very pleasant 
 time, but will miss the object for which you crossed 
 the ocean. 
 
 17. Of Pedestrian Tours. 
 
 Pedestrian tours are a costly mode of travelling, 
 yet they bring you nearer to the life of the people, 
 and into closer communion with nature. They are 
 also valuable for the physical training which they 
 give you, and the resulting powers of endurance. 
 I think that the very perfection of travelling is to 
 pass on foot through a picturesque and historic 
 country, among hospitable people, and in fair and 
 pleasant weather. The quick and elastic step, the 
 lovely views from breezy hills and the bright, un- 
 expected vistas, the castle-crowned bluff and the 
 dell w^ith its ruined Gothic abbey, the long noon- 
 day rest at a coscy wayside inn and the glorious 
 appetite for dinner, the afternoon with its sur- 
 prises and joys, — surely the most inspiring way 
 to travel is that of the pedestrian, the saunterer. 
 
Europe for %1 a Day. 91 
 
 Thoreaii, the prince of American ramblers, claims 
 that " saunterer " is derived from Sainte Terre, or 
 " Holy Land," whence a sainte-terrer, in the early 
 days, was a pilgrim towards Palestine ; or else from 
 sans terre, meaning *' without land," and expressing 
 the careless and joyous life of the rambler. With 
 your little store of linen, books, etc., in a haversack 
 by your side, a light, strong staff in hand, and soft, 
 neatly fitting shoes on your feet, you are ready for 
 the road or the forest. It is best to commence 
 slowly, in order to toughen the lower muscles and 
 harden the feet gradually. Ten or twelve miles a 
 day is quite enough at first, and may be slowly in- 
 creased to twenty-eight or thirty. I commenced, a 
 thin-limbed, pale-faced college-boy, at six miles a 
 day, and in a few weeks could pace off thirty-five 
 miles a day without difficulty, and was finely 
 bronzed by the sun and wind. The six-miles-an- 
 hour gait of professional pedestrians is not suitable 
 for the rambler. I think that about twenty miles 
 a day is quite enough, for then you will have 
 ample time and strength for side-excursions, clam- 
 berings over the hills, and long rests in pleasant 
 
92 Europe for $ 2 a Day. 
 
 nooks. You should rise by five o'clock, in sum- 
 mer, and walk two hours before breakfast, in the 
 cool and freshness of the morning, when the dew 
 is on the grass and the early birds arc singing. 
 (I never could muster courage enough to start on 
 my rambles before eight o'clock, but the above 
 rule is a valuable one, notwithstanding.) Your 
 noonday repast should be light, leaving the chief 
 meal for the evening, after the walk is ended. It 
 is not advisable to talk with the men you may 
 meet walking on the road (at least in England), 
 for they are apt to be " lewd fellows of the baser 
 sort," of the genus "tramp." During the sum- 
 mer, however, there are hundreds of little squads 
 of university-men, and even of gentlemen with 
 ladies, sauntering about the Scottish Highlands, 
 and they are generally pleasant people. 
 
 AVhen I was going on board the steamship, at 
 New York, I bought nine of Walter Scott's novels, 
 and a history of Scotland, to beguile the tedium 
 of the voyage, and tlieir perusal so fascinated me 
 with Scotland that I walked over six hundred 
 miles within its borders. I enjoyed this ramble so 
 
Europe for 1 2 a Day. 
 
 much that I passed across the border to the Cum- 
 berland lakes, where I roamed about for ten daj^s, 
 amidst beautiful scenery and rich memories. Then 
 ensued a long pedestrian tour in fair Warwickshire, 
 every hour of which was precious. Time failed me 
 to make projected tours of this character in Nor- 
 mandy, the Tyrol, and Tuscany, but I explored the 
 Rhineland on foot, and similarly visited all the en- 
 virons of Jerusalem, from Adullam to Gibeon, and 
 from Jaffa to Bethany. 
 
 In Germany you can still travel on foot very 
 cheaply by assuming the disguise of a hand- 
 iverJcer (as described by Bayard Taylor in " Views 
 a-Foot "), and there are many beautiful and pic- 
 turesque districts in the south and west. Nor- 
 mandy, Brittany, and Savoy, with the Pyrenees 
 departments, are the best walking-ground in 
 France. Tuscany and the Italian lake-country 
 afford most fascinating districts, — perhaps the 
 best accessible in Europe, for the numerous brig- 
 ands of Central and Southern Italy and Sicily 
 render a ramble there a matter of some danger. 
 For the same reason Greece is unsuited for pedes- 
 
94 Europe for %'l a Day. 
 
 trian journeys, and Palestine is also very inse- 
 cure. 
 
 But Switzerland affords the best possible ground 
 for a long tour on foot, where you are constantly 
 in the presence of the most noble natural scenery. 
 You will meet frequent parties of Anglo-Americans 
 and Germans rambling through this region, and 
 can form profitable alliances with them. Many 
 ladies also join these expeditions, attired in short 
 and serviceable costumes, and wielding their alpen- 
 stocks with charming dexterity. Throughout the 
 mountain-districts there are frequent cheap and 
 cosey inns, situated oftentimes amid the grandest 
 scenery, and affording good centres for side-excur- 
 sions. Especially applicable to the pedestrian here 
 is the Italian adage : Chi va jnano, va sano ; e chi va 
 sano, va lontano ("He who goes slowl}', goes in good 
 health ; and he who goes healthily, goes a great 
 ways "). 
 
 18. Of Gidde-Bools. 
 
 The choice of these useful companions is a 
 matter of the greatest importance to the success 
 
Europe for %1 a Day. 95 
 
 of your tour. In Great Britain there is a series 
 called Black's " Picturesque Tourists " (of Scotland, 
 of Ireland, etc.), from which you can get the best 
 general idea of each of the three kingdoms. Mur- 
 ray's guides to the counties are bulky and expen- 
 sive, but are full of richness and historic infor- 
 mation. If you intend to remain a long time 
 in London, you will find Murray's handbook the 
 best ; though there is a useful book, by Mr. Pas- 
 coe, lately published by Lee and Shepard, which 
 gives valuable practical hints about the great 
 metropolis, and is especially adapted for the use 
 of Americans. (The price is $ 1.) 
 
 There are several series of Continental guide- 
 books published in Paris and in Germany, but the 
 usual choice of American travellers is between 
 those of Baedeker and Murray. The former are 
 practical, concise, comprehensive, pocketable, and 
 thoroughly reliable ; the latter abound in historic 
 and legendary narrations, and are somewhat 
 bulky. The Baedekers are about one half the size 
 of the Murraj^s, but by skilful arrangements of 
 type they contain nearly as much matter, while 
 
96 Europe for $ 2 a Day. 
 
 their method of arrangement is much more favor- 
 able to compactness. The maps and city-plans in 
 the Baedeker scries are the most accurate and 
 beautiful that can be found anywhere, and very 
 numerous, the " Southern Germany " alone having 
 fifty-five maps and plans. I have frequently left 
 the railroad depot in cities like Hanover, Lyons, 
 or Perugia, having two or three hours in which to 
 see their chief attractions, and have gone unerr- 
 ingly to them in due succession by the aid of 
 the Baedeker plans. These books also give lists of 
 the hotels and restaurants in each city, with their 
 respective prices; the rates of fare by all classes ; 
 the names of the most reliable guides, with their 
 prices ; the diligence routes, fares, and distances ; 
 and every other particular necessary to the trav- 
 eller. History and biography also receive a large 
 space, and every important event is noted, but 
 not in a diffuse manner. Several of the volumes 
 are preceded by powerfully compressed and rich 
 essaj'S on the art or geology, the vintages, or the 
 history of the countries to which they relate. By 
 the aid of the Baedeker guides you can estimate 
 
Europe for %1 a Day, 97 
 
 all your expenses and the time necessary for any 
 given trip, even to the gratuities which the ser- 
 vants expect. The great virtue of these books is 
 their reliability, since they are kept up even with 
 the times, by frequent and careful revisions. If I 
 was travelling in Europe with plenty of money I 
 should have both Baedeker's and Murray's guides ; 
 but if I could have only one, it would be Bae- 
 deker's. If you get them before leaving America, 
 you can lay out your tour to great advantage, and 
 form some idea of its probable cost. 
 
 When in Bome you should certainly get Mur- 
 ray's handbook to that city, for it is a perfect 
 treasury of information, and makes a valuable 
 reference-book. Murray's Eastern guide-books are 
 the best that can be found, and you will enjoy 
 them if you visit the Levant. The handbook to 
 Egypt was written by Sir Gardiner Wilkinson, the 
 eminent Egyptologist ; and the handbook to Pal- 
 estine (in two volumes) was prepared by the Rev. 
 Dr. Porter, the author of "The Giant Cities of 
 Bashan," and for many years a resident and trav- 
 eller in Syria. The last-named work is pleasantly 
 
98 Europe for $ 2 a Day. 
 
 written, and is quite a creditable guide-book, con- 
 
 * 
 sidering its clerical paternity ; giving clouds of 
 
 references to the Bible and the ancient classical 
 authors, and omitting most of the ordinary guide- 
 book details (which, indeed, could hardly be for- 
 mulated about a country like Palestine). 
 
 I regard it as economy to buy a Baedeker's 
 guide, even if you only intend to remain for three 
 or four days in the country of which it treats, be- 
 cause its practical notes will enable you to save 
 more than its cost within the first day or two. 
 The information which you obtain from the book, 
 and the fixcility with which it enables you to 
 visit the cities where you stop, can thus be ob- 
 tained at no expense. 
 
 The guide-books which are published in the 
 United States, and which profess to describe all 
 the notable objects in Europe, will be of no ser- 
 vice to you if you design to make a long tour. 
 These books are, perhaps, useful to the through- 
 Europe - in - three - months travellers, since they 
 specify about all that such hasty gentlemen have 
 time to see. I have not yet seen the new Euro- 
 
Europe for %1 a Day. 99 
 
 pean guide-book published by Lippincott k Co., 
 and therefore I conclude that it must be better 
 than either of the others. 
 
 19. Of carrying Weapons. 
 
 Some travellers wish to carry arms of defence 
 with them throughout their journey, but the 
 wisdom of such a measure is at least question- 
 able. They are dangerous to the bearer in two 
 ways : firstly, in the mysterious habit which such 
 things have of injuring their bearers; and, sec- 
 ondly, in the suspicion which their discovery would 
 arouse in the minds of frontier officers and public 
 guardians. A revolver is also a heavy and incon- 
 venient thing to carry about, with its proper equip- 
 ment of ammunition. The roads and by-ways of 
 Northern Europe are fully as safe as those of New 
 England, and a good walking-stick would answer 
 all purposes of defence better than more fatal 
 arms. In Central and Southern Italy your appar- 
 ent lack of this world's wealth would generally 
 discourage the visits of brigands, but if they came 
 
100 Europe for %1 a Bay. 
 
 it would be in such numbers and so quickly that 
 a pair or two of revolvers could avail nothing. 
 Nothing less than a section of Gatling guns 
 would serve you against a band of Greek brigands, 
 though a revolver, backed by a clear eye, may 
 stand you in good stead against the marauders 
 who prowl about the environs of Athens. I was 
 once rambling about, quite alone, among some an- 
 cient tombs near that city, when I w^as approached 
 suddenly by a white-kilted and gilt-edged sort of 
 gentleman, resembling the Fra Diavolo of our 
 operas, who bore a gun and shouted vociferously 
 at me. The only word which I could distinguish 
 in his Homeric defiance was the Greek word for 
 " money," and as I deemed the place and the situ- 
 ation unfavorable for an argument on that theme, 
 I drew an empty revolver from my pocket and 
 showed it to him, wnth the muzzle on a level with 
 his mustache. This view of the case seemed to 
 surprise him, and my Fra Diavolo quickly disap- 
 peared around the hill. I mentioned the incident 
 on returning to my hotel, and about an hour after- 
 ward a picket of cavalry was ordered out there (it 
 
Europe for %1 a Day. 101 
 
 was two years after the Marathon massacre). In 
 Palestine and Syria I found a revolver a valuable 
 companion on several occasions, and its possession 
 gave me a constant sense of security. A large 
 proportion of the Western travellers carry weap- 
 ons while in Syria, and they sometimes make them- 
 selves highly ridiculous therewith, as illustrated 
 by Mark Twain in '' The Innocents Abroad." A 
 revolver is a useless burden until you get south 
 of Florence, and then you can buy one for $ 6 or 
 % 8. In Belgium you can get fine weapons at a 
 low rate. I bought a revolver at Malta, partly as 
 an appropriate souvenir of that warlike isle, and 
 partly in a mingled maze of memories of crusad- 
 ing knights, Indian scouts of the plains, and the 
 felonious Ishmaelites of Palestine. I would n't 
 have fired it at a man, to hurt him, on any consid- 
 eration ; but, at different times, I persuaded several 
 parties that such was my intentiom, and so com- 
 passed my designs as effectually as if I had marked 
 my trail with Paynim corses. 
 
102 Europe for |2 a Da%j. 
 
 20. Of Diaries, Shetch-Books, etc. 
 
 A valuable aid to memory is the preparation 
 of a full and thoughtful diary, chronicling your 
 voyages, the sights and impressions you meet 
 with, and some of the more piquant personal in- 
 cidents. In this way yoxx will crystallize your 
 fluid thoughts, and make sure that you are think- 
 ing, and not merely reading guide-books. It is 
 easy to get an hour a day for this purpose, either 
 in rainy weather, or long evenings alone, or while 
 waiting for railroad trains. If the sentences are 
 unpolished, or terse and epigrammatic, they will 
 fix the thought or observation just as well, — nay, 
 they wdll be more natural and suggestive than the 
 hypothetical and oily-smooth diaries which our 
 novelists write for their heroines. Addison could 
 not have written " The Man without a Country." 
 There is a sparkle and vigor in thoughts thus 
 noted down while they are yet tingling through 
 the brain. You can read them over years after, 
 and recall the day and the scene in all their fresh- 
 ness, and the time will come when they will be 
 
Europe for ^2 a Day. 103 
 
 worth more than their weight in gold to you. It 
 will take some time to get into the habit of such 
 writing ; but afterwards it will be a delightful 
 amusement, and will while away mauy an other- 
 wise lonely or mischievous evening. I brought 
 home nine volumes of journals, written in this 
 manner, and they are now very precious to me. 
 I wrote of those things which the travel-book 
 makers do not notice, — queer little out-of-the-way 
 bits, provincial mosaics, independent thoughts, 
 quaint inscriptions, — in fact, a medley of sug- 
 gestive notes, crudely stated and unarranged, 
 which more time or a steadier hand might make 
 much of (therein resembling this little book). No 
 statistics, no dates, no formulated rant about ca- 
 thedrals and castles. If I wish to recall the 
 height of Notre Dame de Paris or the date of 
 the Vandal attack on Rome, I have but to refer 
 to my guide-books; if I would ascertain the 
 orthodox emotions on entering Cologne Cathe- 
 dral or the Coliseum, I can turn to any of the 
 multitude of travel-books, some of which are good, 
 some bad, many indifferent. My long journej^s in 
 
104 Europe for %1 a Day. 
 
 Palestine and Syria gave me themes enough to 
 make nine hundred pages of manuscript, which 
 I have spiced up with Moslem legends and old 
 traditions of the Crusades. This " Pilgrimage 
 in the Morning Land " affords me good reading 
 for Sundays, and is a monopoly, for neither pub- 
 lisher nor citizen (save the author) has ever heard 
 of it. Keej) a complete series of annals of your 
 journey, for it will be the most precious visible 
 thing you can bring back from the Old World. 
 Sketch-books are another source of great and 
 permanent pleasure. You can easily obtain a 
 knowledge of the rudiments of perspective and 
 shading sufficient to make a plain sketch that 
 will afterwards be full of suggestion. The out- 
 lines are enough to do on the ground, the shading 
 and finer work can be finished at your leisure. 
 There is an interlinking of person with scene, a 
 remembrance of a past happy conjunction, which 
 is attainable in this way and which no photograph 
 or engraving can afford. Tn Palestine, and in the 
 remoter provincial districts, there are countless 
 objects of interest and beauty whose perfect mem- 
 
Europe for %1 a Day. 105 
 
 ory can be preserved in no other way, for there 
 the photographers do not go. The most beautiful 
 memento of travel that I have ever seen was 
 formed by a wealthy tourist who passed slowly 
 and wisely through one of the most interesting 
 districts of Europe. He had a book made of 
 heavy, white, unruled paper, nearly as large as a 
 counting-house ledger, and interleaved with tissue 
 paper. In this he kept his journal, dotted here 
 and there w^ith classic quotations or bits of poe- 
 try, and illustrated by pencil-sketches tinted with 
 umber. 
 
 You will remember constantly that your foreign 
 trip is not an episode of aesthetic vagabondage, 
 designed solely to gratify the eye with views of 
 many pretty things, but that it is for your edu- 
 cation as well, and that much reading and thought 
 and observation of the people should be combined 
 w4th your journeys. 
 
 On the other hand, one of the greatest mistakes 
 generally connected with tours in Europe is the 
 rush with which they are carried on, by which 
 
 the traveller becomes speedily weary and remains 
 5* 
 
106 Europe for $ 2 a Day. 
 
 so until he reaches America again. No time is 
 given for assimilation, but city after city and 
 realm after realm is devoured, while a grievous 
 state of mental indigestion is going on. It is 
 this unappreciative haste which makes our books 
 of travel and European letters such dreary plati- 
 tudes. The powerful correspondents — Conway 
 at London, Houssaye at Paris, Brewster at Rome 
 
 — write richly, from familiarity with their sub- 
 jects. The American lady, on her return from 
 abroad, being asked her opinion of Milan Cathe- 
 dral, would probably answer, " It 's perfectly splen- 
 did " (being the same formula that she would 
 apply to a pleasing tenor voice, a modish over- 
 skirt, or a successful salad) ; and the opinion 
 given by most gentlemen would be about as curt 
 and indescriptive. It is more thoroughness that 
 our tourists need, — to see less and to see better, 
 
 — vide multum, non midta. If you are to spend 
 a year abroad, you can devote weeks to each of 
 the mother-cities and days to the provincial towns, 
 and fix their memories indelibly in your mind. 
 
Europe for $ 2 a Day. 107 
 
 21. Of Newspaper Correspondence. ■ 
 
 I have often been asked if a well-educated man 
 can't pay his expenses while abroad by correspond- 
 ing for American newspapers, and I have always 
 given a negative answer. The fact is that among 
 the thousands of our people who visit Europe 
 every summer, many scores are afflicted by the 
 cacoethes scrihendi, and our newspaper men consign 
 the average proposals for a foreign correspondence 
 to the limbo of spring poems. There are many 
 travellers who send letters to their local papers 
 without remuneration, being repaid by seeing their 
 effusions in print, or by the wide notice of their 
 movements which is thus given to their friends at 
 home. The objects of interest beyond the sea 
 have been so thoroughly written up by skilful 
 pens during over a century, that you may well 
 despair of telling the world anything new about 
 them. It is always a subject for astonishment to 
 me when I see a writer visit the lions of Europe 
 and write fresh, brilliant, and yet accurate letters, 
 developing new features and ideas, yet causing 
 
108 Europe for $ 2 a Day. 
 
 you to feci that he is in the presence of the 
 world's wonders. Among such I Avould class 
 Charles Warren Stoddard in his recent Venetian 
 letters, Warner in his " Saunterings," and 
 Mrs. Macquoid in her lately published Norman 
 sketches. Moncure D. Conway is always finding 
 novelties even in the heart of travel-ridden Eng- 
 land. The average letter from Europe (which 
 generally goes into the editor's basket, but some- 
 times strays into print) reads after this manner : — 
 
 To THE Editor or the "Battle Cry." 
 
 At last I am in the Eternal City ! ! ! ! 
 ! ! ! ! About me are the temples ! ! and 
 palaces ! ! of Rome ! ! ! once the mighty 
 mistress of the world !!!!!!!!!!!!! 
 The presence of the Venerable Past ! ! ! 
 is brooding over her ancient hills and 
 ruined shrines ! ! ! ! and inspires my soul 
 with a strange and reverential awe ! ! ! ! 
 ! ! ! ! ! Mystic and wondrous city !!!!!!! 
 
 (Here follows a loug resume relating to ^neas, 
 
Europe for | 2 a Day. 109 
 
 Ptomiilus, the legions, the '' proud and victorious 
 eagles," with digressions on Lucretia, Marcus Cur- 
 tins, or great Caesar, all copied, with slight and 
 unimproving changes, from Murray's '' Handbook 
 of Rome.") 
 
 Yesterday I visited St. Peter's Cathe- 
 dral !!!!!!!! The stupendous propor- 
 tions ! ! of this greatest of earth's temples 
 ! ! ! ! filled me with unbounded admira- 
 tion ! ! and amazement ! ! ! as I stood 
 upon the square before its majestic fagade 
 ! ! ! But when I pushed aside the heavy 
 leathern curtain at the door, and entered 
 the shrine itself !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 
 !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 
 
 (Several paragraphs of mathematical descrip- 
 tion, boiled down from Murray or Baedeker.) 
 
 To-morrow I shall visit the Palace ! ! 
 of the Quirinal ! ! ! and the Lateran Ca- 
 thedral ! ! ! ! Next week I shall leave for 
 Naples ! ! ! ! having remained in Rome ! ! 
 
110 Europe for %1 a Day. 
 
 for five days ! ! ! and seen all its majesty 
 
 ! ! glory ! ! ! and splendor ! ! ! ! 
 
 If this letter is acceptable to you I 
 
 should be pleased to write again at an 
 
 early day. 
 
 E. M. T. 
 
 Now these are not the kind of letters that the 
 newspapers want, and the very suggestion of let- 
 ters from Europe will make most of them turn 
 away in impatience. It is only by hard work, 
 close observation, and deep thought, that you can 
 get fresh material ready, and it is useless even 
 then unless you can arrange it in a pleasing man- 
 ner. If you can surmount all these difficulties 
 and present pen-pictures of new phases of life or 
 fresh views concerning the notable things of Eu- 
 rope, you may perhaps be able to have your let- 
 ters published and paid for, and may thus defray 
 a portion of your expenses. 
 
 It will be impossible to make permanent and 
 definite arrangements with newspapers relative to 
 correspondence until they know^ your ability. If 
 
Europe for %'l a Day. Ill 
 
 you apply to editors with reference to tins matter, 
 and they are ftxvorably inclined, they will proba- 
 bly invite you to send them one or two letters 
 after your arrival in Europe. If these letters are 
 satisfactory, they will be printed and paid for (pro- 
 viding the journal is well-to-do) ; otherwise, you 
 will not hear from them again. In journalism 
 (as in patent medicines) a name goes a great ways, 
 and if you are as yet unknown in the republic of 
 letters, your contributions will naturally command 
 but a moderate recompense. Until you become 
 well known your letters would scarcely bring more 
 than from $ 6 to $ 10, the amount depending on 
 the wealth and standing of the newspaper. It is 
 a hard task to write a sparkling, original, and ac- 
 curate letter, and you will perhaps find it difficult 
 to accomplish such labors systematically, in con- 
 nection with 3^our busy sight-seeing. 
 
 I desired to defray part of my expenses by cor- 
 respondence, and received invitations from " The 
 Christian Union," "The Hearth and Home," and 
 other papers, to send specimen letters. I saw the 
 necessity of finding some new line of description, 
 
112 Europe for %1 a Day. 
 
 and commenced it by going to Scottish Dundee, 
 and delving about among its mission-schools and 
 churches after material for a letter to the " Union." 
 I sent it to New York, elaborated and well ar- 
 ranged, but the editor wrote back that he could 
 not use communications from provincial towns, 
 and I had my two daj^s and evenings of work for 
 nothing. I suppose that it must have been a veiy 
 poor letter, and merited prompt rejection. " The 
 Hearth and Home " wanted something so unique 
 and original that I never attempted to fill its 
 order. There are so many skilful and well-known 
 authors and thinkers who go abroad and send 
 their lucubrations home, that an untried pen has 
 but little chance of success. 
 
 22. Of the Etiquette of Churches and. Palaces. 
 
 It may seem strange that it should be thought 
 necessary to caution Americans against commit- 
 ting grave improprieties in the European cathe- 
 drals, yet these ill-bred manifestations are so com- 
 mon among our people abroad (and among the 
 
Europe for $ 2 a Day. 113 
 
 British still more) that a word of warning is need- 
 ful. Many people seem to regard these buildings 
 as intended for the use of curious travellers and 
 the crude admiration of sentimental idlers, rather 
 than for the most solemn rites of religion, and for 
 the improvement of the local populations, " And 
 is it that there is no religion in America % " said 
 an Italian to me. When I asked him whence he 
 got that impression, he answered, " Because your 
 countrymen are so irreverent in our churches." I 
 could not wonder at his conclusion. Scores of 
 times have I seen English and American people 
 strolling about in cathedrals, laughing, jesting, 
 and talking in loud tones, while services were go- 
 ing on at the altars. The gay abandon of Broad- 
 w\ay or the club-room is transferred to these tran- 
 quil and solemn temples of religion ; and the 
 perfumed snob, who, a month before, had swung 
 his dainty cane before the Fifth Avenue Hotel 
 or the Tremont House, carries himself with the 
 same license, and flirts as unreservedly with the 
 brainless belle by his side, in the most august 
 shrines of the church. For ladies oftentimes be- 
 
114 Europe for $2 a Bay. 
 
 have most indecorously in the cathedrals. I re- 
 member attending the Feast of St. John, at the 
 Lateran Basilica, in Rome, when Pontifical high 
 mass was conducted by two cardinals, aided by 
 several bishops and scores of minor clergy. It 
 was an occasion of the deepest solemnity, when 
 even a Hottentot should have known enough to 
 keep silence ; but a party of Americans, gayly 
 dressed women and apparently jocose men, occu- 
 pied a position in the chancel and kept up an 
 incessant laughing and whispering, varied by 
 lounging about the church. The Romans, who 
 crowded the nave and transepts, looked at them, 
 some with pity, others with contempt, and still oth- 
 ers with undisguised resentment; and one of the 
 city newspapers alluded to the incident, the next 
 day, in most angry terms. The Catholic churches 
 are open every day, and you are at liberty to go 
 about their interiors and inspect their treasures 
 of art, but common courtesy should forbid your 
 interrupting divine services by unseemly intru- 
 sions or loud conversation. AVhat should we do 
 if a party of Italians entered Park-Street Church 
 
Europe for %2 a Day. 115 
 
 or Trinity during service-time and rambled about 
 for half an hour, talking, laughing, and jesting^ 
 It may be the case of many, as it was of my 
 comrade, that they entertain such a hatred and 
 contempt for " Popery " that they cannot simu- 
 late even an outward respect for its ceremonials. 
 Then let them keep away from its shrines. 
 
 There is, also, an etiquette of palaces and 
 courts, to which you should be prepared to con- 
 form, or else avoid the places where it is en- 
 forced. Half-educated Protestantism and Repub- 
 licanism are apt to cry out against these forms, 
 and to disregard them with boorish self-assump- 
 tion. When we are in Caesar's empire we have 
 the highest authority for rendering unto Caesar 
 the things that are his. While in the Vatican 
 Palace I met the Pope by accident, and, in ac- 
 cordance with custom, I dropped upon one knee 
 as he passed, and received his benediction. I 
 did not stop to go into the questions of the anti- 
 popes, or w^hether Peter was ever in Rome, or 
 whether the Decretals of Isidore were authentic ; 
 but offered the proper and customary homage to 
 
116 Eur 02^6 for $2 a Day. 
 
 a temporal prince and a bishop of Rome. A fel- 
 low-American reproached me strongly with having 
 "bowed the knee to the ni^'stery of iniquit}-, the 
 abomination of desolation," and various other un- 
 pleasant attributes. While I was in Rome one 
 of these blatant Protestants (an Englishman) was 
 admitted by courtesy to the inner rooms of the 
 Vatican, where he met the Pope, by chance. 
 Pius was about to bestow a benediction upon 
 the visitor to his palace, when the fellow blurted 
 out, "Sir, I do not wish your blessing; I do not 
 accept your pretensions, and wish to have noth- 
 ing to do with you." Instead of ordering his 
 guards to eject him from the palace, the amia- 
 ble old man answered, "My son, an old man's 
 blessing won't hurt you." 
 
 The Turks will not allow any trifling in their 
 mosques, but keep a close watch on their West- 
 ern visitors. You will not be inclined to linger 
 in the temples of Islam, for the worsliippers seem 
 to follow you wuth angry eyes, and make your 
 sojourn uncomfortable. In some cities you must 
 be attended by a military guard, in order to 
 
Europe for %1 a Day. 117 
 
 protect you from the devout Moslems, who seem 
 to think that your simple presence is a desecra- 
 tion. Your shoes must be left at the door, and 
 the circuit of the mosque is made in slippers. 
 
 23. Of English Churches on the Continent, etc. 
 
 Nearly all the chief cities of Europe have 
 churches for English and American tourists, con- 
 trolled usually by British clergymen. They are 
 mostly of the Episcopal sect, and are maintained 
 by an English society, though the Scottish Pres- 
 byterians have also several churches. It is pleas- 
 ant to attend -services at these places on Sunday 
 morning, and to see several scores of fellow-coun- 
 trymen together. The churches sometimes have 
 buildings of their own, but more usually meet at 
 the embassies or in halls of old palaces. At the 
 present rate of division in Rome, it seems as if 
 within five years there would be in that city in- 
 finitesimal churches of every hair-splitting sect 
 in Christendom. No wonder that the depapal- 
 ized Italians despair of finding the true Protes- 
 
118 Europe for $2 a Day. 
 
 tantism in this chaos of hostile churchHngs, and 
 relapse into the calm quietude of secularism ! 
 
 It is well to be thoroughly grounded in your 
 religious belief, whatever it may be, before mak- 
 ing a long tour in Europe. Not to know the 
 creed onl}^ but its reasons and proof, that you 
 may remain firm in it until something which is 
 beyond doubt better shall come before you. I 
 knew of several cases of singular changes of sect 
 through which travelling friends passed. A for- 
 mer officer of a Young Men's Christian Associa- 
 tion, after a long sojourn at a rationalistic German 
 University, became an infidel of the most aggres- 
 sive kind ; two young New-Englanders, of the 
 Orthodox persuasion, were so dazzled by the splen- 
 dor of the Roman Catholic Church, that they 
 studied its doctrines from the lips of its priests, 
 and soon w^ent over to that sect ; several Episco- 
 palians were made within my knowledge out of 
 American dissenters ; and I heard of three Eng- 
 lishmen who, at Aden, were received into the 
 communion of INIohannned. If these various con- 
 verts found better creeds than their own, their 
 
Europe for |2 a Day. 119 
 
 changes were wisely ordered ; but there is recason 
 to doubt whether they had taken time enough to 
 investigate either the systems they were leaving 
 or those to which they were going. After thor- 
 oughly learning the why and wherefore of your 
 own belief, it is of great importance to study the 
 history and position of the Church of Rome. In 
 America we see the Catholics in their worst 
 phases, socially at least, but over there they in- 
 clude the wisest and noblest men of several king- 
 doms and scores of millions of people. American 
 youth are generally educated to the deepest preju- 
 dices against Catholics, and read only the books 
 which take strong ground in condemnation of 
 them. Most of your time will be spent in Cath- 
 olic countries, in and about their cathedrals and 
 monasteries, and even in Germany and England 
 you are brought constantly in contact with their 
 ruined abbeys and confiscated churches. You 
 will see the workings of society, literature, and 
 art, which have grown up in and have been 
 moulded by the Roman Church, and it is there- 
 fore of prime importance that you should under- 
 
120 Europe for %1 a Bay. 
 
 stand the Church itself, considered ns an ethical 
 factor, in its history, its influence for good and 
 evil, and its power for the future. You should, 
 therefore, study books on both sides. Manning as 
 well as Gladstone, learning thus that Catholicism 
 has filled the world with blessings sprinkled with 
 errors, and that the cathedral-builders were also 
 indulgence-venders. If you have such a knowl- 
 edge of both parties, your one-sided and unin- 
 formed Protestantism will not be put to shame 
 by the first cultured Catholic you may meet; 
 and you can perhaps learn to enter the prayer- 
 laden air of a cathedral without thinking of " the 
 scarlet woman " and the Abbot of Misrule. The 
 venerable prior of the Franciscan convent at Je- 
 rusalem, just ere I left the city, gave me a con- 
 troversial work by the Abb6 Segur (Causeries sur 
 le Frotestantisme), entreating me to read it, and 
 saying that he would pray for my conversion. I 
 read it carefully, but my only conclusion was that 
 it was a skilfully written work, although the gen- 
 tleman did n't seem to understand le Protestant- 
 isme very well. 
 
Europe for $ 2 a Day. 121 
 
 ^4-' Of forming Proper Anticipations. 
 
 Lower your expectations concerning the gran- 
 deur or beauty of things beyond the sea. I do 
 not know a more valuable hint than this for 
 changing what would otherwise be disappoint- 
 ments into pleasant surprises. The great lions 
 of Europe — Mont Blanc, the chief cathedrals, 
 the river Rhine, etc. — will inevitably disappoint 
 you, unless you can lower the ideals which most 
 travellers form in their minds. You will often 
 meet people who say that their emotions on first 
 seeing these world's wonders were of the inade- 
 quacy of the scenes to the accounts they had 
 heard of them, and your own impressions may be 
 of the same character unless you lower your 
 anticipations. I remember having read George 
 Alfred Townsend's glorious description of Milan 
 Cathedral (in " Lost Abroad " ), and a few days 
 later I saw the temple itself To my first view it 
 was only a large marble church, fronting on an 
 unpleasant square, and adorned with indistinct 
 spires. I was shocked with disappointment. But 
 6 
 
122 Europe for $2 a Day, 
 
 when I had spent a fortnight in Milan, and studied 
 the cathedral in every light and through every 
 part, I then saw that the description was far inad- 
 quate to the actuality, and if I should now write 
 an account of it, it would be more brilliant and 
 enthusiastic (if possible) than Mr. Townsend's. 
 Warned by the earlier stages of this experience, I 
 prepared myself for St. Peter's, at Kome, in a 
 different way. I had read Hawthorne's superb 
 description of that building, and was forced to be 
 even more carefully on my guard against too lofty 
 an ideal. So I bade myself consider that it was 
 only a church, built by Italian men, now very old 
 and perhaps time-worn, with a much-criticised 
 architecture, and probably very much overrated 
 in other ways. I reminded myself that it was not 
 an Olymi^ian temple, founded by demi-gods, but a 
 large stone building of the genus chiu'ch, whereof 
 are also the Hollis Street Church and the grim 
 little Advent, in Boston. By zealously cultivating 
 these feelings of disparagement, I was fitted to 
 enjoy the marvellous surprise with which St. Pe- 
 ter's came to me, and did not bring away a mem- 
 
Europe for %1 a Day. 123 
 
 ory as of an idol shattered. The men who have 
 written well of these mighty shrines and natural 
 beauties have been prepared by reverent and 
 thorough study of their actual entire effect and 
 the fitness and unity of their parts ; the super- 
 ficial travel-mongers of less experience have natu- 
 rally echoed the pseans of the masters. 
 
 The Kliine, the Danube, and Switzerland are 
 more apt to leave an impression of unsatisfaction, 
 because people generally have not time to study 
 their harmony of beauty. The impression made 
 by the Siebcngebirge on a passing traveller on the 
 deck of the Rhine steamer is far inferior to that 
 produced by days of study devoted to their ro- 
 mantic peaks ; and the Rheinstein, pretty enough 
 (and only enough) from the river, becomes grand 
 when you can stand upon its ancient battlements. 
 In descending the Danube from Passau to Vienna 
 my companion steadfastly maintained that the 
 scenery was inferior to that of the Lower Con- 
 necticut River. If I now thought that I could 
 enter at Hartford upon more beautiful scenery 
 than that of the Upper Danube, I should be very 
 
124 Europe for %1 a Day. 
 
 glad to make the journey thither. It is said that 
 New-Yorkers frequently prefer the Hudson to the 
 Rhine, and if their taste is correct the Hudson 
 must be a very lovely stream. But doubtless if 
 we studied the Rhine or Danube as closely as the 
 more familiar rivers nearer home, we should find 
 that each has a rich beauty of its own, not depend- 
 ent on the praises of Byron or Victor Hugo. It is 
 the express-train, through-Europe-in-three-months 
 tourists who usually return with blighted hopes. 
 Many of the chief European sights are like certain 
 books whose first chapters appear dull and tame, 
 but which, being thoroughly read, leave in your 
 mind a permanent and brilliant impression. Or 
 like some young ladies, on whom, at first acquamt- 
 ance, you do not care to cast a second glance, but 
 who in time display such fine and beautiful traits 
 as to tempt you towards the limbo of Benedicks. 
 
 25. Of Pemdiar Tourists. 
 
 You will meet with a class of Americans, in 
 Europe, who merit the title of "spread-eagle," 
 
Europe for | 2 a Day. 125 
 
 and who will remind you of the Fourth-of-July 
 orators at Jaalam Centre. Their observations 
 lead but to comparisons with things in the United 
 States, in which Europe is thrown into ignoble 
 inferiority, and the auditor is left with the im- 
 pression that Athens, Rome, and Arcadia have 
 been blended in the transatlantic Republic. The 
 castles and palaces of the nobles excite their 
 wrath and pity ; but it is not until they reach 
 Italy and see the everywhere-present priests and 
 monks, cathedrals and convents, that their ire 
 becomes volcanic. There is nothing that the 
 p]nglish traveller so dreads as to meet one of 
 these bird-of-freedom men. The courtesy of ap- 
 parent conformity with the opinions and customs 
 of the countries which they visit is an inconceiv- 
 able treason in their eyes ; and they are never 
 changed by the influences about them, though 
 starting so far wrongly. Yet they are amusing- 
 companions, sometimes, and afford a strong (though 
 narrow) national type. One is often at a loss 
 to know what they travel for. We once had a 
 New England militia-colonel on our steamer, a 
 
120 Europe for %1 a Da\j. 
 
 man of this type. The vessel had crossed from 
 Egypt during the night, and was lying to oft' 
 Jaffa, the port of Jerusalem, rolling heavily, and 
 waiting for a lull in order to land passengers. 
 The man of musters came on deck, pallid and 
 sea-sick, and looked off' on the sand-dunes about 
 the white city, then remarked to me : " That 's 
 the Holy Land, is if? H — 1 of a looking coun- 
 try ! " I met him long afterwards, when he had 
 finished the tour of Palestine: "Not that I care 
 a d — n about the country, but so I can tell the 
 folks at home about it." There is a vast amount 
 of travelling done, both in Europe and America, 
 for precisely that reason. 
 
 More disagreeable than the spread-eagle people 
 are those unfortunate denationalized men who 
 were born and brought up in the United States, 
 but have, after a few months in Europe, become 
 what they call "cosmopolitan." These are gen- 
 erally young men of good families and of some 
 culture, and stand in strongest contrast to their 
 extra-patriotic brethren. They fraternize with 
 tiie English, and expose the vices of America 
 
Europe for %1 a Day. 127 
 
 with facile lips to willing ears, concealing her 
 glories even if believing that they exist. A true 
 x\merican, propei'ly impressed by and fitly esti- 
 mating the splendors of other lands, is a valua- 
 ble citizen and a good companion ; but snobbery 
 reaches its climax in the Anglicized Boston ian, 
 the epicene of nations. Howells describes him 
 well : "He has been a good deal abroad, and he 
 is Europeanized enough not to think much of 
 America, though I can't find that he quite ap- 
 proves of Europe, and his experience seems not 
 to have left him any particular country in either 
 hemisphere." 
 
 26. Of Passports. 
 
 Credentials of this kind are easily obtained be 
 fore leaving the United States, through the De- 
 partment of State. Every traveller should be 
 thus provided, in view of contingencies that may 
 arise. In case of war, the frontiers of the bel- 
 ligerent states are usually closed to travellers who 
 are not thus identified, and the possession of a 
 passport will often deliver one from the unpleasant 
 
128 Europe for $2 a Bay. 
 
 results of the suspicions aroused by the prying 
 habits of tourists. I was once passing time away 
 by sketching a picturesque tower on one of the 
 German frontier fortresses (during the Franco- 
 German war), when I was suddenly surrounded by 
 a party of Prussian soldiers, who haled me away 
 to the guard-house. I was not released until the 
 officers had carefully compared me with the de- 
 scription on my passport, and had convinced them- 
 selves that I was not a French spy. In time of 
 peace, a passport is often useful in identifying the 
 traveller at his banker's, or in helping hira out 
 of temporary pecuniary difficulties, by stating (in 
 some degree) his standing as an American. 
 
 THE END. 
 
 Cambridge : Electrotyped and Printed by Welch, Bigelow, & Co. 
 
Baedeker's European Guide-Boohs. i 
 
 OSGOOD'S EDITIONS 
 
 Baedeker s European Guide-Books. 
 
 By special arrangement with Mr. Baedeker, we now have American 
 editions of these celebrated GuiJe-Books, which are unequalled in the 
 fulness and accuracy of their information, and are famous for the 
 excellence and beauty of their maps. Persons intending to visit Europe 
 will see the groat advantage of procuring Baedeker's Guides to aid in 
 forming their programmes more intelligently, and to help them in 
 counting the cost of various tours. 
 
 *^* For sa^e hy Booksellers. Sent, post-paid., on receipt of price, by 
 the Publishers, 
 
 JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO., Boston. 
 
ii Baedeker's European Guide-Books. 
 
 OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. 
 
 " Baedeker is, as is well known, a singularly' accurate and useful guide, 
 .... his infonnation is compreliensivc, minute, and carefully com- 
 piled."— PaZZ Mall Gazette. 
 
 " Baedeker's Handbooks have a great reputation all over the Continent 
 of Europe, and for years have been distributed in numerous editions." — 
 London Header. 
 
 " We should be inclined to prefer Baedeker, who notes briefly the more 
 essential points, but has not room to distract you with too many particu- 
 lars The numerous maps and plans of cities with which the works 
 
 arc furnished are the best and most conveniently arranged we have ever 
 seen in a guide-book." — y/ie Scotsman (Edinburgh). 
 
 " For all who do not care for elaborate description, doubtful criticism, 
 and a profusion of historical reminiscences .... there are no guide- 
 books like Baedeker's. They are of convenient size, contain everything 
 that the ordinaiy traveller wants to know, told accurately, sensibh', and 
 SHCcinctlj\ Their list of hotels and restaurants is generally trustworthy, 
 and may be consulted with confidence by persons to whom expense is of 
 some consequence."— The Nation {New York). 
 
 " Baedeker's Guide-Books are the best possible help to the traveller in 
 Europe. Their information is always full and correct. They arc superior 
 to most works of their class in not taking for granted that every tourist is 
 indifferent to questions of econoni}'."— Cincinnati Gazette. 
 
 " No American who knows what is best for his convenience and com- 
 fort abroad will foil to possess himself of this invaluable series of guide- 
 books. Better buy them here in America. They will fiiniish just the 
 needed reading during the long hours of the sea-voyage."— Watchman 
 and Reflector (Boston). 
 
Baedeker's European Guide-Bo oks. iii 
 
 PARIS 
 
 AND ITS ENVIRONS, 
 
 With, the Routes from London to Paris, and from Paris to the 
 Rhine and Switzerland. 
 
 WITH MATS AND DESCEIPTIONS OF 
 
 Paris, the Environs of Paris, and Northern France ; and Plans and 
 Descriptions of Havre, Boulogne, Dieppe, Versailles, St. Germain-en- 
 Laye, the Bois de Boulogne, the Cemetery of Pere La Chaise, the Jardin 
 des Plaates, and a key-plan of Paris. 
 
 " Baedeker's European Guide-Books are of world-wide celebrity, and 
 people who are intending to travel will find it to their advantage to buy 
 them, now and here ; so as to familiarize themselves in advance with 
 routes of travel and the objects of interest to be seen at different places. 
 The maps are admirable, and the fulness and accuracy of the informa- 
 tion contained in these volumes is worthy of all praise. So much time 
 is lost, by most travellers, through not knowing beforehand precisely 
 ■what they want to see and where they want to find it, that these Guide- 
 Books are likely to be in great demand for purposes of preparatory 
 study, as well as for use when fairly en voyage,'''' — New York Tribune. 
 
 The Handbook to Paris and Northern France contains 340 pages, with 
 3 maps and 9 plans, and will be sent, post-paid, on the receipt of $ 2.00. 
 
 JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO., Bosto.\. 
 
iv Jjaedeker'' s European Gaide-Jjooks. 
 
 BELGIUM AND HOLLAND. 
 
 WITH MAPS AND DESCRIPTIONS OF 
 
 Belgium aud IluUand, the Environs of Ostend and Bruges, the Battlc- 
 Field of Waterloo, the Estuary of the Schclde and Maas, the Ilivir 
 Meuse from Dinant to Liege, and the Environs of Amsterdam. 
 
 Also Plans and Desci-iptions of the Cities of Amsterdam, the Tuner 
 Town of Amsterdam, Antwerp, Bruges, Brussels, Ghent, the Hague and 
 Scheveniugen, Haarlem, Leyden, Liege, Louvain, Ostcud, Rotterdam, 
 aud Utrecht. 
 
 "Baedeker's European Guides are the best special guides ever pub- 
 lished in English, more compact than Murray's and not less trust- 
 worthy. The maps are specially admirable, and worth to the tourist 
 the whole cost of the books. One should, by all means, use tlies^e 
 guides in laying out his tour, which cannot be done too carefully or too 
 minutely as a preparation for travel. They will be an economical 
 investment for this purpose, even if he goes abroad as a ' carpet-bag- 
 ger,' and cannot take half a dozen books with him." — Journal of 
 Chemistry. 
 
 The Handbook to Belgium and Holland contains 2G7 pages, with 6 
 maps and 14 plans, and will be sent, post-paid, on the receipt of $ 1.75. 
 
 JAMES W. OSGOOD k CO., Boston. 
 
Maedeker''s European Guide-Books. v 
 
 THE RHINE, 
 
 FROM ROTTERDAM TO CONSTANCE. 
 
 WITH MAPS AND DESCTJPTIOXS OF 
 
 The Lower Rhine, the Seven Mountains, the Rhine from Bonn to 
 Coblcnz, and from Coblenz to Bingen ; the Niederwald, the Rheingau, 
 the EnTirons of Metz, the Moselle Valley, the Volcanic Eifel, the 
 Taunus, the Odenwald, the Black Forest (Northern Part and Southern 
 Part), the Vosges, and a Railwaj' Map of the Rhineland. 
 
 Also Plans and Descriptions of the Cities of Aix-la-Chapelle, Bale, 
 Bonn, Carlsruhe, Coblenz, Cologne, Constance, Darmstadt, DUsseldorf, 
 Frankfort, Freiburg, Heidelberg, Maycnce, Strasburg, Treves, and 
 Wiesbaden. 
 
 " We decide this handsome cherry-colored volume to be a first-class 
 
 handbook for travellers It will be of great service to Americans 
 
 going abroad Persons of inexperience will find it of immense 
 
 value. The best hotels, restaurants, — in fact, every place of interest, — 
 recommended by Mr. Baedeker, can be relied upon , and the tourist is 
 saved a world of trouble. The book explains everything you ought to 
 know. Buy it, by all means, and carry it along with you in your 
 satchel." — Phila. City Item. 
 
 The Handbook to the Rhine contains 290 pages, with 15 maps and 16 
 plans, and will be sent, post-paid, on receipt of % 2.00. 
 
 JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO., Boston. 
 
vi Baedeker's Europecm. Guide-Books. 
 
 NORTHERN GERMANY. 
 
 WITH MAPS AND DESCllIPTIONS OF 
 
 Northwestern Germany, the Frisian Islands, the Sound and Eastern 
 Zealand, the Island of Rugen, the Giant Mountains, the Glatz Moun- 
 tains, the Saxon Switzerland, the Thuringian Forest (Eastern Portion 
 and Western Portion), the Harz Mountains, and Northeastern Ger- 
 many. 
 
 Also Plans and Descriptions of the Cities of Berlin, the Environs of 
 Berlin, Bremen, Breslau, Brunswick, Cassel, Copenhagen, Dantzic, 
 Dresden, Erfurt, Gotha, Hamburg, the Environs of Hamburg, Hano- 
 ver, Ilildcshcim, Kiel, Konigsberg, Leipsic, Liibec, Magdeburg, Munster, 
 Potsdam, the Royal Gardens of Potsdam, Schwerin, Stettin, Weimar, 
 Wilhelmshbhe. 
 
 "Baedeker's Gnide-Book has long had an enviable reputation, and it 
 was fairly earned. This translation and rc])ublicatiou of it in this 
 country is the result of a happy and practical thought It is wonder- 
 ful for the lai'ge amount of information it condenses, and it is of just 
 such a sort as the average tourist needs. Generally, it will fairly well 
 suffice for him. Nothing of special interest is ovei-looked ; nothing of 
 slight importance is needlessly dwelt on. The compilation has been 
 made witli the greatest care, and in the translation special regard has 
 been paid to the wants of American travellers. The maps and plans 
 are admirable in design, and are most superbly executed. Those in- 
 tending to go abroad and visit this interesting portion of Europe can 
 hardly afford to overlook this timely little volume." — Morning, Utar. 
 
 The Handbook to Northern Germany contains 294 pages, with 11 
 maps and 27 plans, and will be sent, post-paid, on receipt of $2.00. 
 
 JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO., Boston. 
 
Baedeker's European Guide-Boohs, vii 
 
 SOUTHERN GERMANY 
 
 AND 
 
 THE AUSTRIAN EMPIRE. 
 
 WITH MAPS AND DESCRIPTIONS OF 
 
 The Eastern Alp«, the Suabian Alb, Franconian Switzerland, the Wet- 
 terstcin Mountains and Walchensee, the Environs of Munich, the 
 Fiehtelgebirge, the Bavarian Forest, the Environs of Vienna, the 
 Danube (2 maps, — Passau to A^ieuna), the Salzkammergut, the Envi- 
 rons of Salzburg, the Pinzgau and Hohe Tauern, the Zillerthal, the 
 Vorarlberg and AlgJu Alps, the Upper Innthal, Oetzthal, Stubay-Thal 
 and Vintschgau, the Ortler District, the Inner Oetzthal Mountains, the 
 Lake of Garda, the Adamello, Presanella and Brenta Alps, the Dolomite 
 Mountains, the Gross Tenediger District, the Grossglockner District, 
 the Danube from Vienna to Pestli, the Tatra Mountains, and Railway 
 Maps of Eastern Austria, Western Austria, and Southwestern Germany. 
 
 Also Plans and Descriptions of the Cities of Augsburg, Bamberg, 
 Carlsbad, Constance, Cracow, Gastein, Gmunden, Gratz, Innspruck, 
 Isehl, Kissingen, Saxenburg, Meran, Munich, Nuremburg, Pesth and 
 Ofen, Prague, Pressburg, Ratisbon, Reichenhall, Salzburg, Stuttgart, 
 Trieste, Ulm, Vienna, the Inner Town of Vienna, and Wurzburg. 
 
 The Handbook to Southern Germany and the Austrian Empire con- 
 tains 516 pages, with 28 maps and 27 plans, and will be sent, post-paid, 
 on receipt of % 3.50. 
 
 JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO., Boston. 
 
viii Baedeker'' s European Guide-Dool's. 
 
 SWITZERLAND 
 
 AND THE ADJACENT PORTIONS OF 
 
 ITALY, SAVOY, AND THE TYROL. 
 
 WITH MAPS AND DESCRimONS OF 
 
 Switzerland, the Schaffhausen-Constance District, the Lake of Con- 
 stance, the Lake of Zurich, the Lake of Lucerne, the Environs of the 
 St. Gotthard Pass, the Bex-nese Obcrland, the Upper Valais, the Valley 
 of the Rhone, the Lalce of Geneva, the Valley of Chamouny, the Envi- 
 rons of the Great St. Bernard Pass, the Environs of Monte Rosa, the 
 Canton of Appenzell, Glarus, the Vorder Rheinthal, the Upper Enga- 
 dine and Bernina, the Lower Engadine, the Lukmanier-Maloja Mountain 
 District, Lake Maggiore, Lakes Como and Lugano, Key Map of Switzer- 
 land. 
 
 Also Panoramas of the views from the Rigi Kulm, the Faulhorn, the 
 Alps from Berne, the Eggischhorn, the Flcgere, the Gorncr Grat and 
 the Piz Languard. 
 
 Also Plans and Descriptions of the Cities of Bale, Berne, Coi^tancc, 
 Geneva, Interlachen, Lausanne, Lucerae, Milan, Ragatz, and Zurich. 
 
 The Handbook to Switzerland contains 427 pages, with 29 maps and 
 panoramas and 10 plans, and will be sent, post-paid, on the receipt of 
 $ 2.50. 
 
 JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO., Boston. 
 
Baedeker's European Guide-Boolvs. ix 
 
 NORTHERN ITALY, 
 
 LEGHORN, FLORENOE, AND ANCONA, 
 
 AND THE 
 
 ISLAND OF CORSICA. 
 
 AVITII MArS AND DESCllIPTIOXS OF 
 
 Northern Italy, the Environs of Nice, the Italian Lakes, Lago di Garda, 
 the Environs of Florence, and the Island of Corsica. 
 
 Also Plans and Descriptions of tlie Cities of Ancona, Avignon, Ler- 
 gamo, Bologna, Brescia, Cremona, Ferrara, Florence, Genoa, Lucca, 
 Lyons, Mantua, Marseilles, Milan, Modena, Nimes, Padua, Parma, 
 Pavia, Pisa, Ravenna, Trieste, Turin, Venice, Verona, and Vicenza. 
 
 " This is one of the best works of the kind that we ever have seen , 
 being at once full and concise, and abounding with facts that it is 
 useful for every one to know, and without knowledge of which travel- 
 lers iu Northern Italy would find themselves very awkwardly placed. 
 .... Mr. Baedeker has done his work with German thoroughness and 
 conscientiousness, and without tediousness. It would be difficult even 
 to imagine anything that has escaped his attention and diligence, so 
 exhaustively has he wrought at his undertaking. The Maps are very 
 beautiful, and they are not less accurate than beautiful; and the 
 Plans are such as would enable a stranger to walk about the old his- 
 torical Itahan cities with entire ease It can be advantageously 
 
 studied by the myriads who cannot travel, but who, all the same, love 
 to think of and to brood over ' the pleasant garden of great Italy.' " — 
 Boston Traveler. 
 
 The Handbook for Northern Italy (and Southern France) contains 
 397 pages, with 7 maps and '28 plans, and will bo sent, post-paid, on the 
 receipt of ^2.50. 
 
 JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO., Bostox. 
 
X Baedeker's European Gicide-JBooks. 
 
 CENTRAL ITALY 
 
 AND 
 
 ROME. 
 
 WITH MAPS AND DESCRIPTIONS OF 
 
 Italy, the Environs of Rome, the Roman Campagna, the Alban Moun- 
 tains, the Sabine Mountains (I. Tivoli and the Teverino Valley), the 
 Sabine Mountains (II. Roviauo, Subiaco, and Caprauica), the Sabine 
 Mountains (III. Tivoli, ralestriua, and Olevano). 
 
 Also Plans and Descriptions of Siena^ Perugia, Ancona, large triple- 
 plan and clew-plan of Rome, the Vatican Palace, the Roman Forum, the 
 Capitoline Museum, Ancient Rome, St. Peter's Church, the Imperial 
 Palaces on the Palatine, the iK'iteran Church and Museum, and a Pano- 
 rama of Rome. 
 
 " There are nine of these volumes, devoted to those portions of Con- 
 tinental Europe most fre(iuented by travellers, giving minute descrip- 
 tions and historical memoranda of all places and objects worth visiting, 
 and made as practically valuable as possible by numerous maps and 
 plans The excellence of these guide-books is so generally recog- 
 nized that it is matter (or congratulation that we are to have an Amer- 
 ican edition, by which persons intending to visit Europe will be enabled 
 to mature their plans before leaving home, or while crossing the 
 Atlantic."— .Boston Globe. 
 
 Mr. Augustus J. C. Hare, in his superb book entitled "Days near 
 Rome" (published in 1875), gives unqualified praise to Baedeker's 
 Central lialy. 
 
 The Handbook to Central Italy and Rome contains 3G2 pages, with 8 
 maps and 12 plans, and will be sent, post-paid, on receipt of $2.50. 
 
 JAMES 11. OSGOOD & CO., Boston. 
 
Baedelcer''s European Guide -Hoolcs. xi 
 
 SOUTHERN ITALY, SICILY, 
 
 AND 
 
 MALTA 
 
 (INCLUDING CARTHAGE AND ATHENS). 
 
 WITH MAPS AND DESCRIPTIONS OF 
 
 Southern Italy, Sicily, Malta, the Environs of Naples, the Environs of 
 Carthage, Southern Greece, etc. ; and Plans and Descriptions of Naples, 
 Messina, Palermo, Syracuse, Athens, and other Cities. 
 
 " Like all the works of this series, it is very minute and reliable in the 
 information given, and is fully equipped with maps and plans of cities. 
 In addition to a full description of all that is worth seeing, and much 
 historical information, it gives lists of hotels, with their prices ; routes 
 of travel, with the time occupied in going from place to place, by rail or 
 diligence, and many hints useful to the traveller. There is an advan- 
 tage to those going abroad in obtaining these books in this country, as 
 it enables them to study up their routes beforehand, and thus save 
 nmch valuable time." — Portland Transcript. 
 
 The Handbook to Southern Italy contains about 400 pages, with 7 
 maps and 8 plans, and will be sent, post-paid, on the receipt of !f? 2.50. 
 
 JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO., Boston. 
 
xii J)aedel-er\<i Enropean Guide-Bool\ 
 
 THE TRAVELLER'S MANUAL 
 
 OP 
 
 CONVERSATION 
 
 IN FOim LANGUAGES, 
 
 ENGLISH, FRENCH, GERMAN, AND ITALIAN. 
 
 WITH EXTENSIVE VOCACULAIIIES 
 
 and many short practical dialogues, showing the actual workings 
 of the languages among the people, and applicable in conversations 
 v.ith railway and steamboat officials, guides, hotel-keepers, and citi- 
 zens. This valuable book is indispensable to the European tourist, 
 and its popularity is evident from the fact that it has already passed 
 into its twenty-first edition. 
 
 " The ' Manual of Conversation ' cannot be too strongly recom- 
 mended to travellers ignorant of either French, German, or Italian. 
 In fact, there is not a better text-book extant for one desirous of ac- 
 quiring those languages to study at home or aliroad. The words and 
 sentences in the four languages — English being added — are ranged in 
 parallel columns, giving at a glance the different versions of the same 
 expression. It is the best method ever yet devised for learning an 
 alien tongue, and is the one used by some of the most distinguished 
 and successful teachers of the languages." — Chicago Tribune. 
 
 The Traveller's Manual contains 332 pages, and will be sent, post- 
 paid, on the receipt of S^l 25 
 
 JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO., Boston. 
 
OsgooiVs Americcm Guide-Bool's. xiii 
 OSCOOD'S 
 
 American Guide- Books. 
 
 In the year 1872 Messrs James R. Osgood & Co. commenced the 
 preparation of a series of American Guide-Books, modelled after the 
 world-renowned Baedeker Guides, and emulating their simplicity, com 
 pactness, and practical character. Two volumes have already appeared, 
 a third is on the eve of publication, and others are in process of prep- 
 aration. They have received the highest commendations from news- 
 papers and travellers throughout the United States, and have been 
 republished in Germany by Mr. Baedeker, in connection with his 
 European series. 
 
 Osgood's American Guide-Books state the distances, times, and fares 
 on the railroad, steamboat, and stage line?, and give Usts of the hotels 
 and their prices. They include complete epitomes of the historical 
 events, statements of the scenic attractions, descriptions of the art and 
 architecture of the cities, biographical sketches, and statistics of the 
 chief industries of the sections of which they treat. They also give 
 careful statements of the attractions of the mountain and seaside 
 resorts, so that the tourist can readily estimate the cost of any desired 
 tour, and can pass an enjoyable season of travel with the greatest 
 economy of money, time, and temper. 
 
 They are for sale at mo.-t of the bookstores, and will be forwarded, 
 post-paid, to any address, on receipt of the price. 
 
 JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO., Boston. 
 
XIV 
 
 OsgooiVs American Guide-Book. 
 
 NEW ENGLAND, 
 
 WESTERN AND NORTHERN BORDERS, FROM 
 NEW YORK TO QUEBEO. 
 
 WITH MAPS AND DESCTJl'TIONS OF 
 
 New England, the White Mountains, the Hudson River, the Environs 
 of Boston, Lake Wiunepesaukce, and Nahant; and Plans of Bof^ton, 
 Hartford, Montreal, New Haven, New York, Newport, Portland, Provi- 
 dence, Quebec, the Central Park, and the Mount Auburn Cemetery. 
 
 The Handbook for New England (revised in 1875) contains 430 pages, 
 with 6 maps and 11 plans, and will be forwarded, post-paid, on receipt 
 
 of §2.00. 
 
 JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO., Boston. 
 
 "It is about as nearly faultless as such a book can be, — carefully 
 edited, beautifully jjiinti'd, and neatly Inmnd. 'Ibere is not a page (do 
 much or too little about it; and its red cover, clean typography, and con- 
 venient size recall the masterpieces of Baedeker." — iV'«c York Tribune. 
 
 " Osgood's ' Handbook to New England ' bids fair in New England to 
 rival the lame of Murray and Bncdckcr abroad. It merits the good 
 words as well as the liberal palmnage it receives; for it is a faithful, 
 painstaking piece of work, and condenses into brief compass a vast 
 amount of jnt'onuation, wliicb all tourists to the .seaside, mount-iin, and 
 country summer-resorts of New England will gladly possess." —.AVw lurk 
 Ereni7ig Post. 
 
 " It is so complete and satisfactory that it is not likely soon to have a 
 rival in the llrld. It is as com)>rehensive, minute, and accurate as 
 Baedeker's excellent European guides, after which it is modelled." — 
 Journal of Chemist ri/. 
 
 "It is superior to any guide-book ever before issued in this coimtry, 
 and shows an accuracy, industry, and amplitude of material really sur- 
 prising." — Cumniontcealt/i. 
 
 " The Ijook is compact and crowded The information in regard 
 
 to the dill'erent localities is full, minute?, and exact." — Jboston Transcript. 
 
Osgood^s American Guide-liooks. xv 
 
 THE MIDDLE STATES, 
 
 NORTHERN FRONTIER FROM NIAGARA FALLS TO 
 MONTREAL. 
 
 ALSO 
 
 BALTIMORE, WASHINGTON, AND NORTHERN VIRGINIA. 
 
 WITH MAPS AND DESCrjPTIONS OF 
 
 The Middle States, the Adirondack Mountains, the Catskill Mountains, 
 the Hudson River, Long Island, and the Environs of New York and of 
 Philadelphia ; and Plans of Baltimore, Brooklyn, Buffalo, Montreal, 
 New York, Niagara Falls, Ottawa, Philadelphia, Pittsburgh, Rochester, 
 Saratoga, Toronto, Washington, Greenwood Cemetery, and the Central 
 Park. 
 
 The Handbook for the Middle States contains 469 pages, with 7 maps 
 and 15 plans, and will be forwarded, post-paid, on receipt of S?2 00. 
 
 JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO., Boston. 
 
 " Osgood's Handbooks deservedly enjoy a very large share of public 
 favor. The comjiletenviss and reliability of thoir information, and the 
 excellent maps accompanying, render them unequalled." — The Arca- 
 dian (New York). 
 
 " No previous manual is so copious or so exact in its treatment, or can 
 be con.^ultod to so great advantage by the tourist in the Middle States as 
 a trustworthy guide." — A'e/c Vork Tribune. 
 
 " The Handbook for the New England States, published last summer, 
 was by tar the bi'st American uuide-book ever pi'inted; and this volume 
 is fully equal to it in all respects." — 5o.s-^ore Transcript. 
 
 " The entire arrangement of the book is admirable, while the amount 
 of matter contained in its 450 closely printed but clear pages is simply 
 astonishing." — Congregationalist. 
 
 " Foreign visitors to this country will tind pretty much all that is worth 
 seeing set down in this Handbook, with clearness and sufficient detail." 
 — The Nation. 
 
 " The work is very faithfullv done, and the 500 pages v^f the red-covered 
 volume are crammed with facts useful to the tourist." — Springfield 
 Republican. 
 
xvi OsgoocVs American Guide-Books, 
 
 THE MARITIME PROVINCES, 
 
 vrni 
 
 THE GULF AND RiVER OF ST. LAWRENCE TO 
 QUEBEC AND MONTREAL. 
 
 ALSO 
 
 NEWFOUNDLAND AND LABRADOR. 
 
 WITH MAPS AND DESCRIPTIONS OF 
 
 The iSIaritimc Provincps and Eastern Maine and Canada, Newfoundland 
 and Labrador, the Basin of Minas and tlic Land of Evangeline, tlie 
 Lower St. Lawrence and the Saguenay lliver ; also Plans of St. Jolin, 
 Halifax, Quebec, and Montreal. 
 
 The Handbook for the Maritime Provinces (published in Maj-, 1875) 
 contains about 340 pages, with 4 maps and 4 plans, and will be sent, 
 post-paid, on the receipt of $2.00. 
 
 JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO., Bostox. 
 
 This Handbook contains full descriptions of the natural and arti- 
 ficial attractions of the Eastern British Provinces, their cities and rural 
 districts, the tranquil beauty of the St. John River and the Annapolis 
 Valley, the noble scenery of the Basin of Minas and the Bras d"Or, the 
 majesty of the sea-repelling mountains of Newfoundland and Labrador, 
 the grandeur of the Lower St. Lawrence, and the gloomy wcirdness 
 of the Saguenay. It also describes St. John, " the Liverpool of 
 America"; Halifax, "the Gateway of the Sea"; St. John's, "the 
 Capital of Fish-and-Fog Land " ; Quebec, " the Walled City of the 
 North"; Montreal, "the Queen of the St. Lawrence," and all the 
 other cities and villages of these Provinces ; and devotes consider- 
 able space to the fishing and hunting grounds among the Nova Scotia 
 lakes, the New Brunswick and Quebec rivers, and in the interior of 
 Newfoundland 
 
falTTLE fLA^^IC^ 
 
 "A MrtM of •sqnlittely printed little Tolames in flexible binding and red 
 •dgei, which gather np the very choicest tbingi in our literature in tho waf 
 of ihort talei and iketchea. " — Buffalo Courier. 
 
 THE PROSE SERIES 
 
 INCLUDES TWELVE VOLUMES, AS FOLLOWS 
 
 I. 
 
 EXILE, 
 
 VII. 
 
 ROMANCE. 
 
 II. 
 
 INTELLECT. 
 
 VIII. 
 
 MYSTERY. 
 
 III. 
 
 TRAGEDY. 
 
 IX. 
 
 COMEDY. 
 
 IV. 
 
 LIFE. 
 
 X. 
 
 CHILDHOOD. 
 
 V. 
 
 LAUGHTER. 
 
 XI. 
 
 HEROISM. 
 
 VI. 
 
 LOVE. 
 
 XII. 
 
 FORTUNE. 
 
 
 tartefully bound. 
 
 Price. $1.00 each. 
 
 Too much praise cannot be accorded the projectors of this work. It lays, 
 for a very small sum, the cream of the best writers before the reader of average 
 means It usually happens that very few, except professional people and scholars, 
 care to read all that even the most famous men have written. They want his 
 best work, — the one people talk most about, — and when they have read that 
 - i."-Ne -- - - 
 
 they are satisfied. 
 
 /<ra/ York Commercial Advertiser. 
 
 " Confessedly the best miscellaneous collection of short stories anywhere xt' 
 taia&bXn." — Hartford Courant. 
 
 " There is no other collection of short stories equal in value and variety." — 
 Boston Advertiser. 
 
 " Every one of these books is worth reading and buying." 
 ^iliran. 
 
 ■ Springfield Re- 
 
 " These selections are made with exquisite taste, and appear in the daintiest 
 little volumes iraagfinable." — Chicago Post. 
 
 " The series contains nearly every gem of prose English literature, and who- 
 ever wishes to have the best story of a great writer, without the encumbrance 
 of all his works, will do well to get this series of ' Little Classics.' "— Bosttm 
 Pilot. 
 
 %• For sale by all Booksellers. Sent, post-paid, on receipt of price by the 
 Publishers, 
 
 James R. Osgood & Co., Boston. 
 
7h£ ^y\U|^T£FiEF{'3 ^EF^iEg, 
 
 "An exquisite lertes of little books, whose dainty beauty at once makes 
 the hand a friend and the eye a lover,— while the varied freshness and grace 
 of their contents charm their readers to admiration and delight." 
 
 Eack volume complete, tastefully bound and stamped, with red edges. 
 $1.50. 
 
 Saunterings. By Charles Dudley Warner, Author of " My 
 Sununer in a Garden," " Backlog Studies," etc. 
 
 Bits of Travel. By H. H. With a Portrait of " A German Land- 
 lady," and a Picture of Gastein. 
 
 A. Chance Acquaintance. By W. D. Howklls, Author of 
 
 " Their Wedding Journey," etc. 
 
 The Tonr of the World in Eighty Days, By Jules 
 
 Verne, Author of " Twenty Thousand Leagues under the Seas," etc. 
 
 Among the Isles of Shoals. By Mrs. Celia Thaxter. 
 
 With Four Illustrations by H. I'ENN. 
 
 JPoems of W. D. Howells, Author of "A Chance Acquaint- 
 ance," etc. 
 
 Hap-Mazard. A Volume of Travel and Character Sketches in 
 
 America and Europe. By Katk Meld. 
 
 South Sea Idyls. Travel Pictures of the South Pacific and its 
 Islands. By CHARLES Warre.n Stoddard. 
 
 Sounds from Secret Chambers. Poems by Laura C. Red- 
 den [" Howard Glyndon "]. 
 
 Normandy Picturesque. By Henry Blackburn, Author of 
 
 " Artists and Arabs," etc. With Illustrations by the Author. 
 
 Artists and Arabs. By Henry Blackburn, Author of " Nor- 
 mandy Picturesque, ■ etc. With Illustrations by the Author. 
 
 Gunnar : A Norse Romance. By H. H. Boyesen. 
 
 Ten Days in Spain. By Kate Field, "Author of "Hap- 
 
 Hazard." etc. 
 
 BaddecU, and that Sort of Thing. By Charles Dudley 
 
 Warner. $1.00. 
 
 Dr, Ox, and other Stories. By Jules Verne, Author of "The 
 
 Tour of the World in Eighty Days," etc. Illustrated. $ i.oo. 
 
 James R. Osgood & Co., Publishers. 
 
 B D 72. 
 

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