Specifications 
 
 for the 
 
 Painter 
 
 
 
 TRADE MARK 
 
 Harrison Bros. M Co,, Inc. 
 philadelphia chicago 
 
 boston new ORLEANS 
 CINCINNATI NEW YORK 
 
 
SPECIFICATIONS 
 FOR THE PAINTER 
 
 A PRACTICAL HANDBOOK for 
 ARCHITECTS and HOUSE PAINTERS 
 
 HARRISON BROS. & CO., Inc. 
 
 PHILADELPHIA, CHICAGO, BOSTON 
 CINCINNATI. NEW ORLEANS. NEW YORK 
 
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 COPYRIGHT BY 
 
 HARRISON BROS. & CO., Inc. 
 1903 
 
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PREFACE 
 
 These pages contain clear and complete 
 specifications for all usual forms of painted work. 
 
 The value of these forms is attested by the 
 fact that they were paralleled almost exactly in 
 the report of the Specifications Committee pre- 
 sented in February, 1903, at the Nineteenth 
 Annual Convention of the National Association 
 of Master House Painters and Decorators of the 
 United States and Canada. 
 
 The ** Harrison " brands of White Lead, Col- 
 ors, Varnishes, Mixed Paints and Specialties are 
 named throughout these specifications, because 
 they are the standards in each of their several 
 classes. ''Town & Country" is a paint of 
 such durability and manifold usefulness that it 
 may be specified for almost any surface, exterior 
 or interior, with full assurance of satisfaction. 
 More than a century of successful manufacturing 
 has given these products a reputation for ex- 
 cellence which will always be maintained. 
 
 HARRISON BROS. & CO., Inc. 
 
General Specifications 
 
 Scaffolding, etc. 
 
 The painter is to provide all the scaffold- 
 ing, staging, etc., which he may need for his 
 work, and is to be held responsible for any ac- 
 cidents due to defects in the same. He is to 
 employ an adequate force of men, so as to 
 avoid all unnecessary delays. He is to touch 
 up after carpenters and other mechanics as 
 may be required ; and, on completion of his 
 work, is to leave everything clean and neat. 
 He is not to be held responsible for delays 
 occasioned by strikes or by fire or any 
 unavoidable accident. 
 
 Workmanship 
 
 These specifications call for a thorough 
 and workmanlike job. All rough woodwork 
 to be sandpapered before priming, and all 
 trim, doors, blinds, casings, balustrades and 
 the like to be made perfectly smooth. All 
 rough places to be sandpapered after priming. 
 All coats to be well brushed out. 
 
 Note. — The above presupposes the high- 
 est grade of work. In cheap houses, sand- 
 papering is frequently omitted, or confined 
 to the roughest portions. 
 
Putty 
 
 All nail holes, season cracks, etc., to be 
 thoroughly filled with strictly pure putty made 
 from the best grade bolted whiting and pure 
 raw Linseed Oil, to be forced down into the 
 openings. Bridging over nail holes and 
 cracks will not be permitted. 
 
 Note. — Pure White Lead may be added 
 to putty if the judgment of the painter ad- 
 vises its use. 
 
 Killing Knots 
 
 All knots and sappy spots to be killed 
 with orange shellac. 
 
 Note — While knots, etc., are usually shel- 
 lacked before priming, some experienced 
 painters prefer to shellac knots after prim- 
 ing, provided more than one additional coat 
 of paint is to be applied. 
 
 Preparing Old Surfaces 
 
 All scale to be thoroughly scraped from 
 the surface and rough portions to be smoothed 
 with sandpaper. 
 
 Note — If the old paint is badly alliga- 
 tored, or is scaled in spots and clings tight 
 in other places, it must be removed with 
 the paint burner before a good job of re- 
 painting can be done. Neglect to do this 
 may result in the new paint puUing off the 
 old down to the bare wood. 
 
Exterior Painted Woodwork 
 
 (For Roofs, see pp. 24 and 25) 
 
 Woodwork 
 
 All exterior woodwork except to 
 
 be primed with (A) and to have 
 
 (B) additional coats of (C) 
 
 , in the following colors (here specify 
 
 in detail the general color scheme and whether 
 the mouldings are to be picked out in a sep- 
 arate color) ; or, in tints to be selected by the 
 architect, it being understood that not more 
 than colors are to be used. 
 
 (A) Priming 
 
 1. Harrisons' "Town & Country" 
 Primer and Filler. 
 
 Note — A perfect priming and filling coat, 
 ready mixed and thinned to the proper 
 consistency. 
 
 2. Harrisons' Perfectly Pure White Lead. 
 
 Note — A very finely ground white lead 
 which will enter the pores of the wood. 
 
 3. Harrisons' Perfectly Pure White Lead, 
 tinted with not more than one per cent, of 
 Harrisons' Lamp Black, Ochre or Umber in oil. 
 
 Note — The reason for adding the tinting 
 color is that the priming may better cover 
 any stains or discolorations in the wood and 
 enable the subsequent coats to cover more 
 evenly. 
 
(B) Number of Coats 
 
 For the best work, two or more coats in 
 addition to the priming coat. For cheap 
 work, one coat. 
 
 Note. — For repainting old work, two thin 
 coats are usually sufficient and are more 
 economical than one heavy coat. 
 
 (C) Subsequent Coats 
 
 1. Harrisons' "Town & Country" 
 Ready Mixed Paints of the shade selected by 
 the owner or architect. 
 
 Note. — These are machine mixed paints 
 of the highest grade in every respect, com- 
 pounded from white lead, zinc white and the 
 necessary tinting colors. 
 
 2. Harrisons' Perfectly Pure White Lead. 
 
 NoTE.-^This is for white work. If tints 
 are desired, add the words : " To be tinted 
 as directed by the architect, with Harrisons' 
 Pure Oil Colors. ' ' 
 
 3. If very dark colors are desired, Har- 
 risons' Pure Oil Colors, thinned with sufficient 
 pure raw Linseed Oil and pure Turpentine to 
 reduce them to the proper consistency for use. 
 
 Note. — This applies to such colors as 
 Umber, Ochre, Sienna, Indian or Venetian 
 Red, Bronze or Bottle Green, Tuscan Red 
 or Vermilion when used as pure colors, no 
 white base being used. 
 
Thinners 
 
 Pure raw Linseed Oil only to be used for 
 thinning the paint, with just sufficient pure 
 Turpentine and best liquid driers as may be 
 required in the judgment of the painter, to 
 produce durable work. 
 
 Ironwork 
 
 All rust and mill scale to be thoroughly 
 removed from iron work by means of steel 
 wire brushes, and by pickling with dilute 
 hydrochloric acid, which is to be washed care- 
 fully from the surface before it is primed. 
 
 Priming 
 
 The priming coat to be the** Harrison " 
 Extra Bright Red Lead, mixed to the proper 
 consistency with raw Linseed Oil, and about 
 one gill of the best Japan drier to the 
 gallon of Oil, and all portions of the surface to 
 be primed. [As the mixture of Red Lead and 
 Oil hardens rapidly in the can or barrel it is 
 best to prepare the paint just before using.] 
 
 To be followed by additional coats 
 
 of (A) 
 
 (A) Additional Coats 
 
 I. Harrisons' **Antoxide." 
 
 Note. — A paint of great protective value 
 for structural or exterior ironwork. It comes 
 in Black, Red, Maroon and Bronze Green. 
 
 8 
 
2. Harrisons' Extra Bright Red Lead, 
 tinted with not more than half a pound of 
 Harrisons' Lamp Black in Oil to twenty-five 
 pounds of Red Lead. 
 
 Note. — If three coats are to be given, the 
 last coat should be pure Red Lead. The 
 object of tinting the second coat is to enable 
 the inspector to make sure that every por- 
 tion of the iron work has received the 
 number of coats specified. This is specially 
 important on structural iron work. 
 
 3. Harrisons' Perfectly Pure White Lead, 
 tinted with Harrisons' Pure Oil Colors, as may 
 be directed. 
 
 4. Harrisons' "Town & Country" Ready 
 Mixed Paints, in the shades selected. 
 
 5. Harrisons' ^ Black Asphaltum Var- 
 nish mixed with Harrisons' Diamond Finish, 
 Outside. 
 
 Note. — This makes an excellent and dur- 
 able black finish for outside work, retaining 
 a high gloss for years. 
 
 6. Harrisons' ^ Black Asphaltum Var- 
 nish. 
 
 Note. — Gives good black gloss finish for 
 interior use. 
 
 Galvanized Ironwork 
 
 All galvanized ironwork, rain conductors, 
 cornices and the like, to be primed with Har- 
 risons' Antoxide '*F", and to have * 
 
 ♦With Galvanized iron work the fewer coats the better. 
 
 9 
 
additional coats of (A) 
 
 Note. — Antoxide "F" is the only paint 
 that adheres fimly to galvanized iron, and 
 therefore makes the best priming for this 
 formerly troublesome surface. 
 
 (A) Additional Coats 
 
 1. Harrisons' Antoxide *'D". 
 
 Note. — This is specially intended for sur- 
 faces exposed to the action of water, and 
 where color is no object ; is recommended 
 for corrugated iron roofs, the interior of 
 hanging gutters, tanks and the like. 
 
 2. Harrisons' 'Town & Country" Ready 
 Mixed Paints, in colors as selected. 
 
 3. Harrisons' Perfectly Pure White Lead 
 tinted with Harrisons' Pure Oil Colors, as di- 
 rected by the architect. 
 
 Exterior 
 Varnished Woodwork 
 
 All exterior, open -grained woodwork, 
 (oak, chestnut, ash, etc.) to be filled with Har- 
 risons' Paste Filler, well rubbed into the grain 
 of the wood with burlap or curled hair and 
 allowed to become bone-dry before the varnish 
 is applied. 
 
 Note. — Close grained woods, like white 
 and yellow pine, cherry, poplar or white- 
 wood, cypress and the hke, do not require 
 paste filler, but may be varnished directly 
 upon the wood. 
 
 ID 
 
To be followed by two or three coats of 
 
 (A) The first coat or coats to 
 
 be rubbed with curled hair, to cut the gloss ; 
 the last coat to be left with full gloss. 
 
 Note. — The durability of an outside varn- 
 ish is impaired if the final coat is rubbed. 
 
 (A) 
 
 1. For the very best grade work, Harri- 
 sons' Diamond Finish, Outside. 
 
 2. For high grade work, Harrisons' 
 Crystal Finish, Outside, or Harrisons' Spar 
 Finishing. 
 
 3. For a good, durable finish, Harrisons' 
 '' Vitrolac " E for Exterior Finishing. 
 
 Note. — No varnish will stand outside ex- 
 posure unless it is specially made therefor 
 and is of good quality. 
 
 Interior Painted Woodwork 
 
 Flat Finish 
 
 All interior woodwork, except floors [here 
 specify in which rooms], to be primed with 
 Harrisons' Perfecdy Pure White Lead and 
 
 pure Linseed Oil and to have additional 
 
 coats, as follows : 
 
 I. Two coats Harrisons' *'Town & 
 Country" Inside Flat White. 
 
 II 
 
2. Three coats of Harrisons' Perfectly 
 Pure White Lead, each coat to be allowed to 
 become bone-dry, and to be sandpapered 
 smooth before the succeeding coat is applied. 
 Final coat to be Harrisons' Pure French Zinc 
 White, ground in bleached Linseed Oil. [If 
 the very finest and whitest job possible is de- 
 sired, specify : *'To be ground in pure poppy- 
 seed oil".] Thin with pure Turpentine. 
 
 Note. — The above specification provides 
 for a pure white finish, having a smooth, 
 velvety texture. 
 
 3. Three coats of Harrisons' Perfectly 
 Pure White Lead, each coat to be allowed to 
 become bone-dry, and to be sandpapered 
 smooth before the next coat is applied. The 
 last coat to be thinned with pure Turpentine 
 only. 
 
 Note. — If tinted work is wanted, add : 
 " The last two coats to be tinted as directed 
 with Harrisons' Pure Oil Colors." 
 
 4. Two coats of Harrisons' Perfectly 
 Pure White Lead, the last coat to be thinned 
 with pure Turpentine only, to be tinted with 
 Harrisons' Pure Oil Colors as may be directed 
 by the architect. 
 
 Note. — This is the usual quality of work 
 for the average house. 
 
 5. If very dark colors are required, the 
 second coat is to be Harrisons' Perfectly Pure 
 White Lead, tinted with Harrisons' Lamp 
 
 12 
 
 I 
 
Black in Oil to a lead color, and the final coat 
 to be Harrisons' Pure Oil Colors, thinned with 
 pure Turpentine, and just enough pure Linseed 
 Oil to act as a binder. 
 
 Note. — All sap and knots must be killed 
 by shellac before the priming coat is 
 applied. In the best work, a coat of shellac 
 should be applied to the entire surface of the 
 wood before priming. This will give a much 
 better surface for following coats. 
 
 Gloss Finish 
 China Gloss 
 
 An old Philadelphia formula 
 
 First coat to be white shellac, sand- 
 papered well. 
 
 Second coat, Harrisons* Perfectly Pure 
 White Lead, mixed with equal parts of Lin- 
 seed Oil and Turpentine. 
 
 Third coat, Harrisons' Perfectly Pure 
 White Lead, flat (all Turpentine), sandpapered 
 smooth. 
 
 Fourth coat, Harrisons' French Zinc 
 White, ground in Harrisons' ^ Damar Var- 
 nish, and, if necessary, thinned with Turpen- 
 tine, using as little as possible. 
 
 Note. — The above is for good work but 
 can be enlarged considerably. The very- 
 best work should have at least six coats, 
 being rubbed on the coat of zinc-in-da- 
 mar, and finished with a coat of clear 
 Harrisons' A Damar Varnish. One or two 
 additional coats of white lead may be used, 
 each one being rubbed perfectly smooth. 
 
 13 
 
For a dead white effect, a little cobalt blue 
 should be added to the zinc-in-damar coat. 
 A beautifully soft effect in colors can be 
 obtained by tinting the white lead coats with 
 Harrisons' Pure Oil Colors, several shades 
 darker than it is desired to have the finished 
 color. The zinc-in-damar coat is then used as 
 a glaze, toning down the under colors. It is 
 well to note, however, that this kind of 
 finish requires workmen of exceptional skill, 
 or the color will not be even. 
 
 Enamel 
 
 Three coats Harrisons' Perfectly Pure 
 White Lead, rubbed perfectly smooth with 
 fine sandpaper or pumice, followed by two 
 coats Harrisons' Interior Decorative Enamels, 
 of the colors selected — (the last coat may be 
 rubbed to a dull gloss or to a polish as desired). 
 
 Note. — For less expensive work, two 
 coats of Harrisons' Perfectly Pure White 
 Lead and one coat of Harrisons' Interior 
 Decorative Enamel, flowed on. These 
 enamels are made in 20 colors. 
 
 Gloss Paints 
 
 I . For White only — two coats Harrisons' 
 Perfectly Pure White Lead, and one additional 
 coat of Harrisons' ''Town & Country " China 
 Gloss. For a less expensive finish, use *' Town 
 & Country" Inside Gloss White. 
 
 Note. — Except Cherry, which is usually 
 too expensive, Poplar is better adapted 
 for painting upon than any other finishing 
 lumber, and should therefore be specified 
 wherever high grade work is required, es- 
 pecially an enamel finish. 
 
 14 
 
2. One coat Harrisons' Perfectly Pure 
 White Lead, and two additional coats Harri- 
 sons' 'Town & Country" Ready Mixed 
 Paints. 
 
 Note. — These paints make an extremely 
 durable surface with a good gloss which can 
 be scrubbed and washed without affecting 
 it. They are made in 64 colors besides 
 black and white. 
 
 3. One or two coats of Harrisons' Per- 
 fectly Pure White Lead, and two coats of Har- 
 risons' Sanitary Gloss Paint. 
 
 Note, — Sanitary Gloss Paints were espec- 
 ially prepared for the severe usage of Hos- 
 pital and Pubhc Institution walls. They are 
 permanently lustrous and are of extraordi- 
 nary durability. 
 
 Interior Varnished Woodwork 
 
 (See note on page 18.) 
 
 Open-Grained Woods 
 
 All open-grained wood to be filled with 
 Harrisons' Paste Filler, well rubbed in, and 
 when thoroughly dry, to be rubbed off the 
 surface of the wood with burlap or curled hair. 
 
 Note. —Coarse or open-grained, requiring 
 paste Fillers : Ash, Bass, Butternut, Chest- 
 nut, Elm, Mahogany, Oak and Walnut. 
 
 Medium or close-grained requiring no paste 
 Filler : Beech, Birch, Cherry, Cypress, Dog- 
 wood, Hemlock. Maple, Pine, Poplar, Red- 
 wood and Sycamore. 
 
 15 
 
Yellow or Hard Pine should not be 
 treated with liquid filler, but invariably have 
 a first coat of Shellac varnish to hold back 
 the pitch. 
 
 To be followed by : 
 
 1. For Gloss Finish, one coat of Harri- 
 sons* varnish, rubbed with curled 
 
 hair, and one coat flowed on with full gloss. 
 
 2. Two coats of Harrisons' 
 
 varnish ; full gloss. 
 
 Note. — No. i gives better finish than 
 No. 2. A still better grade of work is pro- 
 duced by specifying two coats rubbed and 
 one left full gloss. 
 
 Note. — In the above specifications, the 
 following grades of varnish should be speci- 
 fied, according to the quality of work de- 
 sired : 
 
 (a) For the best possible finish : Harri- 
 son's Diamond Finish, Inside. 
 
 (b) For a high grade finish, short only 
 of being the best : Harrisons* Crystal Finish, 
 Inside, or Harrison's " Vitrolac " I for Inte- 
 rior Dressing. 
 
 (c) For average houses where a fair 
 quality of work is required : Harrisons'^ 
 Hard Oil Finish. 
 
 (d) For ordinary work : Harrisons' Cabi- 
 net Finish, No. i Hard Oil Finish, or No. i 
 Furniture Varnish, according to the grade of 
 work desired. 
 
 Close-Grained Woods 
 
 All close-grained woods to have one coat 
 of Harrisons' Liquid Filler ; or, one coat of 
 shellac, to be followed by the varnish coats as 
 
 i6 
 
specified for open grained woods; or, two 
 (or more) coats of Harrisons' var- 
 nish applied on the bare wood. 
 
 Note. — Varnish is the best possible filler, 
 the only object of a hquid filler being to save 
 a varnish coat. Close-grained wood, being 
 smooth, does not require paste filler. 
 
 For list of close-grained woods see p. 15. 
 
 Dull Gloss or Rubbed Work 
 
 Proceed as above until the final coat. 
 Last coat to be rubbed with pumice and crude 
 oil to a dull finish or egg-shell gloss ; or, to a 
 polish, the final rubbing being with pumice and 
 water and rotten stone and water or crude oil. 
 
 In rubbed work, as a rule, more coats 
 are necessary to obtain the same durability 
 and grade of finish than when the varnish is 
 left with a full gloss, as part of the last coat is 
 removed by the rubbing. To obtain the finest 
 finish, each coat should be rubbed until the 
 gloss is cut and the surface is smooth, before 
 the succeeding coat of varnish is applied. 
 
 Note. — For the undercoats, better work 
 may be done by using a specially prepared 
 rubbing varnish. According to the grade 
 of the job, specify Harrisons' Diamond 
 Rubbing, Crystal Rubbing or Cabinet Rub- 
 bing. 
 
 Dull Finish without Rubbing 
 
 On the final coat, use Harrisons' ^'Flatlac". 
 
 Note.—" Flatlac " is a high-grade inside 
 finishing varnish that dries with a soft ^%z- 
 
 17 
 
shell finish. It perfectly imitates the appear- 
 ance of freshly-rubbed, high-lustre varnish, 
 and retains its flat finish permanently. 
 
 General Note on Varnishing. — Var- 
 nish work, both the labor and material 
 used, is often condemned by the archi- 
 tect simply because the work has been 
 done under unfavorable conditions. Varn- 
 ishing, to obtain the best results, should be 
 done only in a dust free, well ventilated 
 room, of an even temperature, not less than 
 75 degrees Fahrenheit, and absolutely free 
 from dampness. Each coat must be allowed 
 to become absolutely bone-dry, and not 
 merely surface-dry, before the next is ap- 
 plied. Doors and inside bhnds should be 
 taken off and laid flat. The varnish should 
 be flowed on freely and brushed as little as 
 possible. It is only by such methods that 
 the fine finish found on pianos and high 
 grade furniture and carriages can be ob- 
 tained : and it is useless to insist upon a 
 painter rivaling such work, or even ap- 
 proaching it, unless these conditions are in 
 a measure fulfilled. 
 
 Staining 
 
 open-Grained Woods 
 
 (See list on page 15.) 
 
 Paste Filler is to be used, stained as di- 
 rected by the architect, with Harrisons' Pure 
 Oil Colors. 
 
 Close-Grained Woods 
 
 To be stained with Harrisons' Oil Wood 
 Stains, or Harrisons' Varnish Stains, or on 
 
 18 
 
floors with Harrisons' Floor Stain and Fin- 
 ish, as may be directed (these imitate ash, 
 cherry, dark oak, Hght oak, mahogany, rose- 
 wood and walnut); or, to be stained with Har- 
 risons' Pure Oil Colors, thinned with pure Lin- 
 seed Oil, before varnishing. 
 
 A slightly different effect is produced by 
 adding the staining color to the Liquid Filler. 
 
 Note. — Where a perfectly uniform stain 
 is desired, a coat of shellac should be 
 given before the stain coat is applied. 
 
 To develop the grain of White Pine, and 
 other woods in artistic colorings that are not 
 imitative : The wood to be stained before var- 
 nishing (on open-grained woods, the stain- 
 ing to be done after the paste filler has been 
 applied) with Harrisons' Interior Decorative 
 Stains, to be applied with a brush and allowed 
 to dry partially, after which the wood is to be 
 wiped with cloths to obtain the desired effect. 
 
 Note. — Variations in color and degree of 
 staining are produced by allowing the stain 
 to remain on a longer or shorter time before 
 wiping, and by the vigor with which the 
 surface is wiped. Harrisons' Interior Dec- 
 orative Stains are made in 21 colors. 
 
 Flemish Oak 
 
 Harrisons' Paste Filler to be used, stained 
 with Harrisons' Lamp Black and followed by 
 a glaze coat of Harrisons' ^ Black Asphaltum 
 Varnish. 
 
 Note. — Flemish Oak finish is usually left 
 without additional varnishing. 
 
 19 
 
Painting Back of Trim 
 
 ' Before any trim or inside finishing lumber 
 is placed in position, it must be painted on the 
 the back with one coat of rough paint. 
 
 Note. — The object of painting the back 
 of trim is to prevent the lumber from ab- 
 sorbing moisture from the plaster, which 
 retains an appreciable quantity of water 
 long after it appears to be dry. For this 
 back painting, any paint is good enough to 
 serve the purpose, such as the odds and 
 ends that collect around the paint shop. 
 Back painting is generally omitted in low 
 cost houses, but should always be specified 
 in the belter class of work, especially where 
 it is particularly desired to avoid the un- 
 sightly cracks which occur at mitered joints 
 of door and window trim. 
 
 Brickwork 
 
 Flat Color 
 
 Face bricks to be painted 
 
 coats as follows : 
 
 For Red : To have priming and second 
 coat of Harrisons' Venetian Red and final coat 
 of Harrisons' Flat Brick Color of one of the 
 following shades, as may be selected : — Light 
 Red, Philadelphia Medium, Dark Red or Extra 
 Dark Red. 
 
 For Buff : To have priming and second 
 coat of Harrisons' Yellow Ochre and final coat 
 
 20 
 
of Harrisons' Flat Brick Color, — Milwaukee or 
 Buff, as may be selected. 
 
 Gloss Surface 
 
 1. To be primed with Harrisons' ''Town 
 & Country" Primer and Filler and to have 
 
 additional coats of Harrisons 
 
 ''Town & Country" Ready Mixed Paints of 
 such shades as may be selected. 
 
 2. To be primed with Harrisons' Perfectly 
 Pure White Lead and Linseed Oil, and to have 
 
 additional coats of Harrisons' 
 
 Perfectly Pure White Lead and Linseed Oil 
 tinted with Harrisons' Pure Oil Colors to such 
 shade as may be directed by the architect. 
 
 3. To have coats of Har- 
 risons' Pure Oil Colors thinned to working 
 consistency with pure Linseed Oil (this is for 
 colors used in their pure color tones). If fiat 
 color other than Reds or Buffs is desired, 
 specify — the last coat to be applied flat, by 
 thinning same with pure turpentine. 
 
 Note. — The above specifications are for 
 brickwork that has not been painted. Where 
 the surface has been previously painted, 
 fewer coats may be used, depending on the 
 condition of the old paint. 
 
 In Light Shafts where a high gloss is desired 
 
 To be painted with coats of 
 
 Harrisons' Perfectly Pure White Lead and 
 
 21 
 
pure Linseed Oil, and one coat of Harrisons 
 White " Weatherproof " Enamel. Harrisons 
 "Weatherproof" Enamel Diluent, only, to be 
 used if thinning of the enamel is required. 
 
 Penciling Joints 
 
 All mortar joints to be penciled with Har 
 risons' Perfectly Pure White Lead (which may 
 be tinted to such color as the architect may 
 direct). 
 
 Plastered Walls 
 
 All plastered walls and ceilings in the 
 following rooms and halls to be painted : — 
 (here give list). The plaster is to be sized 
 with one coat of Harrisons' Wall Varnish. 
 
 Note. — The glue size often employed as 
 a preparatory coating on plaster, should 
 never be specified, since it has a tendency 
 to cause peeling or pulling off of the sub- 
 sequent coats. For the same reason, cheap 
 rosin and benzine varnishes should be 
 avoided. Harrisons' Wall Varnish is 
 specially prepared for sizing plaster and can 
 be depended on to give satisfactory results. 
 
 Decorative Fresco Painting 
 
 After sizing, the plaster is to be decorated 
 with Harrisons' Distemper or Fresco Colors, 
 in accordance with the detail sketches. 
 
 Note. — If elaborate decorations are de- 
 sired, and the architect cannot allow suffi- 
 cient time for the preparation of sketches for 
 
 22 
 
the decoration before letting the contract, 
 it is well to specify as follows : 
 
 Allow $ for decorations 
 
 i^ the room, the work to 
 
 be done with Harrisons' Distemper or Fresco 
 Colors, over a sizing coat of Harrisons' Wall 
 Varnish. Sketches to be submitted and ap- 
 proved by the architect before beginning the 
 work. 
 
 Plain Wall Painting 
 
 (i) After sizing, the plaster is to be 
 painted with Harrisons' Distemper or Fresco 
 Colors, in such plain tints as may be directed 
 by the architect. 
 
 (2) Plaster to be painted with 
 
 coats of Harrisons' Perfectly Pure White Lead 
 and Turpentine, tinted as directed. 
 
 Note. — Harrisons' Perfectly Pure White 
 Lead "I S," or "I" is so ground as to be 
 specially adapted to flatting walls. 
 
 Plain VJsll Painting — Gloss Finish 
 
 1. After sizing, all plaster is to have 
 
 coats of Harrisons' Perfectly 
 
 Pure White Lead and pure Linseed Oil, tinted 
 to the shades required with Harrisons' Pure 
 Oil Colors. 
 
 2. Harrisons' "Town & Country" Ready 
 Mixed Paints, of such colors as maybe selected. 
 
 Note. — These paints retain their high 
 gloss, and are well adapted for use in kitch- 
 ens, bathrooms, pantries and the like. 
 
 23 
 
3. Harrisons' Sanitary Gloss Paints, of 
 the tint selected. 
 
 Note. — These paints are specially pre- 
 pared for the walls and woodwork of hospi- 
 tals and public institutions. They will retain 
 their high gloss and remain otherwise un- 
 injured under constant cleaning with soap 
 and disinfectants. 
 
 Floors 
 
 Varnishing — Open-Grained ^A/'oods 
 
 (See page 15.) 
 
 To be filled with Harrisons' Paste Wood 
 Filler, well rubbed into the grain of the wood, 
 and the surplus rubbed of! with burlap or 
 
 curled hair. To have coats of 
 
 Harrisons' ''Vitrolac" F, for Finishing Floors. 
 
 Varnishing — Close-Grained Woods 
 
 If the floor is yellow or white pine, or 
 some other close-grained wood, which does 
 not require much filling, the ''Vitrolac" F 
 to be applied upon the bare wood, the first 
 coat acting as a filler. 
 
 Note. — Do not use Liquid Filler on floors. 
 
 Varnishing and Staining 
 
 For varnishing and staining hard-wood 
 floors at one operation where it is desired 
 to show the grain of the wood, one coat of Har- 
 risons' Floor Stain and Finish to be applied. 
 
 24 
 
Waxing 
 
 To be filled with Harrisons' Paste Wood 
 Filler (if of open-grained wood), well rubbed 
 into the grain of the wood and rubbed of! the 
 surface with burlap or curled hair and allowed 
 to become bone-dry, after which to be given 
 two coats of Harrisons' Wax Finish for Floors; 
 each coat to be applied very thin, with a cloth, 
 and polished with a weighted brush. A final 
 polishing to be given with felt or carpeting 
 laid over the brush. 
 
 Painting 
 
 The floors of the following rooms : . . . 
 
 to be painted with . . . 
 
 coats of Harrisons' Floor and Deck Paints. 
 
 Note. — On porch floors, and other floors 
 liable to be affected by dampness arising 
 from beneath, these paints should be used 
 over a priming (on hard-wood floors) of 
 Harrisons' Perfectly Pure White Lead thinned 
 with equal parts of Oil and Turpentine ; (and 
 on soft-wood floors) of equal parts by weight 
 of Harrisons' Perfectly Pure White lead and 
 Harrisons' French Ochre, thinned with two 
 parts Linseed Oil and one of turpentine and 
 sufficient drier. 
 
 Stenciling 
 
 To be painted with three coats Harrisons' 
 Perfectly Pure White Lead, tinted as directed 
 by the architect with Harrisons' Pure Oil Col- 
 
 25 
 
ors, thinned with Turpentine. Stencil borders 
 in (one or more) colors, in accordance with the 
 details, and finished with two coats Harrisons' 
 " Vitrolac " F for Finishing Floors. 
 
 Note. — A solid color with stenciled bor- 
 der makes a sanitary and attractive floor, 
 especially for bedrooms. 
 
 Roofs 
 
 Tin 
 
 All tin roofs to be washed with benzine, 
 and painted on the underside with one coat 
 before being laid upon the roof (two coats 
 would make a better job, but this is not usual) 
 
 and on the upper side with two coats of 
 
 (A) The exposed surface to receive the 
 
 priming coat as soon as possible after the roof 
 has been put on, and on no account must the 
 tin be allowed to rust before painting. All 
 rosin to be scraped from the joints before 
 painting and all oil and grease to be removed 
 from the tin with benzine or gasoline. 
 
 (A) 
 
 1. Harrisons* 'Town & Country" Ready 
 Mixed Paints. 
 
 2. Harrisons' "Town & Country" Roof 
 Paints (6 colors). 
 
 26 
 
3. Harrisons' Venetian Red in pure Lin- 
 seed Oil. 
 
 4. Harrisons' Graphite in pure Linseed 
 Oil. 
 
 5. Harrisons' Metallic Brown in pure 
 Linseed Oil. 
 
 Rain Water Conductors 
 
 To be dipped in the same paint that is 
 used for the roof. 
 
 Note. — This applies to tin conductor 
 pipes. Galvanized iron pipes to be either 
 left unpainted or to be dipped in Harrisons' 
 Antoxide " F." 
 
 Shingle 
 
 Shingle roofs to be painted with 
 
 coats Harrisons' ''Town & Country" Roof 
 Paints (6 colors), over a coat of Harrisons' 
 Primer and Filler; or, Harrisons' ''Town & 
 Country" Shingle Stains (12 colors); or, Har- 
 risons' Pure Oil Colors, thinned with pure 
 Linseed Oil to the consistency of a stain. 
 
 Note. — The last two may be used as a 
 paint, or the first coat may be applied by 
 dipping the shingles in the stains, before 
 they are laid, and the second coat to be 
 brushed on after the shingles are on the roof. 
 This latter method prevents white lines from 
 appearing as the shingles shrink. 
 
 27 
 
Grained Woodwork 
 
 All woodwork in the to be 
 
 grained (insert name of wood) 
 
 as follows : 
 
 All woodwork to be sandpapered perfectly 
 smooth. All knots or sappy places (in pine 
 wood) to be shellacked. 
 
 Note. — In first-class work it is better to 
 specify that the entire surface of the wood 
 be given a thin coat of shellac. 
 
 Ground Color 
 
 The entire surface to have three smooth 
 coats of ground color made from Harrisons' 
 Perfectly Pure White Lead tinted with Harri- 
 sons' Pure Oil Colors, to be strained before 
 applying. 
 
 For cheap work two coats of ground color 
 will be sufficient. Not less than four days to 
 elapse between the priming and second coats 
 of ground color, and at least two days between 
 each succeeding coat. 
 
 If there are no streaky or strong heart 
 grains in the wood, graining on white pine or 
 whitewood may be done over two coats of 
 white shellac as a groundwork, but as a rule, 
 painted grounds are safest. 
 
 Note. — "Harrisons' " Graining Grounds 
 are made from Harrisons' Pure White Lead 
 tinted to the appropriate color for Ash, 
 
 28 
 
Chestnut, Light Oak, Dark Oak, Mahogany 
 and Walnut, and will be found useful and 
 economical, as they save trouble in mixing. 
 Ground color containing zinc white should 
 be avoided on account of its tendency to 
 cause the subsequent varnish coat to crack. 
 
 Graining Color 
 
 Graining to be done in a workmanlike 
 manner, using only Harrisons' Pure Oil Colors 
 or Harrisons' Graining Colors. 
 
 Note. — It is well to specify in city work : 
 "All graining to be done in a thoroughly 
 workmanlike and artistic manner by a 
 grainer to the trade," in order to insure the 
 employment of competent workmen. 
 
 Mahogany Graining 
 
 The wood-work is to be given two coats 
 of orange shellac to which a little of Harrisons' 
 Grainers' Burnt Sienna in Oil has been added 
 to give the proper foundation, after which the 
 work is to be grained in the most workmanlike 
 manner. 
 
 Note. — This method is suited for grain- 
 ing in imitation of Mahogany only. 
 
 Varnishing 
 
 All grained work to be given 
 
 coats (one coat for ordinary work, two or more 
 coats for better work) of Harrisons' 
 
 I. Diamond Finish, Inside. 
 
 29 
 
2. Crystal Finish, Inside, or '* Vitrolac " 
 I for Interior Finishing. 
 
 3. Cabinet Finish. 
 
 Note. — For exterior grained work specify : 
 
 1. Diamond Finish, Outside. 
 
 2. Crystal Finish, Outside, or Span Fin- 
 ishing. 
 
 3. "Vitrolac" E for Exterior Finishing. 
 
 Rubbed Work 
 
 To have two (or more) coats of Harrisons' 
 
 1. Diamond Finish, Inside. 
 
 2. Crystal Finish, Inside, or ''Vitrolac" 
 I for Interior Finishing. 
 
 3. Cabinet Finish. 
 
 rubbed to a dull gloss (or a polish) with pum- 
 ice stone and crude oil. 
 
 Blackboards 
 
 To be primed with Harrisons' Perfectly 
 Pure White Lead tinted with Harrisons' Lamp 
 Black in Oil, and two additional coats of Har- 
 risons' Blackboard Slating. 
 
 Radiators 
 
 Exposed Steam Pipes, etc. 
 
 To have coats of Harrisons' 
 
 Radiator Enamel (made in four colors) of the 
 
 30 
 
tint selected ; or, Harrisons' " Astraluminum " 
 Paint, or Harrisons' Ready-mixed Gold Paint. 
 
 Note. — "Astraluminum" is an alum- 
 inum paint of the highest quality. 
 
 Pipes in Refrigerating Plants 
 and Electrical Apparatus 
 
 To receive two (or more) coats of Harri- 
 sons' Insulating Black Paint 
 
 Note. — Surfaces exposed to electricity by 
 nearness either to apparatus or wires should 
 be protected with Harrisons' Insulating 
 Paint. 
 
 Stables 
 
 In the main, specifications for stable 
 painting will be identical with those for house 
 painting. White Lead, however, should not 
 be used inside the stable proper, or where am- 
 monia fumes are present. For varnished 
 work subject to the stable fumes, specify Har- 
 risons' Diamond Finish, Inside, or Harrisons' 
 Crystal Finish, Inside, for final coat (over an 
 undercoat of the corresponding grade of rub- 
 bing varnish, where more than one coat of 
 varnish is desired besides the filler). 
 
 31 
 
For woodwork well cut off from stable 
 fumes, Harrisons' Hard Oil Finish (^, Extra 
 or No. i) or Cabinet Finish may be used. 
 
 Harrisons' Varnish Stains, combining 
 stain and varnish in one coat, are well suited 
 for carriage houses or other parts of stables 
 shut off from stable fumes, over a filling coat 
 of liquid or paste filler, or for old work requir- 
 ing renewal. 
 
 Barns and Outhouses 
 
 Two coats of Harrisons' ''Town & 
 Country " Roof Paints (Brown, Red, Slate, Light 
 Slate, Olive Green or Moss Green) will give 
 good results on all buildings where their color 
 is appropriate, such as barns, outhouses, sheds 
 and the like ; and where a low-priced yet 
 durable paint is required. 
 
 32 
 

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