MYH^TOM LIBRARY OF CONGRESS DD0137bfllE2^ LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. ®]^n Sujajriafal !fu. Shelf .-^..^..^.y UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. CCLONEL RICHARD VOSE. A NEW INVASION OF THE SOUTH. BEING A NARRATIVE OF THE EXPEDITION OF THE SEVENTY-FIRST INFANTR V, NA 7 lONA L G UA RD. THROUGH THE SOUTHERN STATES, TO New Orleans. ^e'br-a.a.r3r 2^— Ivlarcli 7, ISSl. J By JOHN F . CO WA N NEW YORK Wo I) OF Officers Sevent Publishers i88i Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year i8Si. by JOHN F. COWAN, In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, Washington, D. C. Dedicatory Note, The expedition of the Seventy-firsL U) the far South is an accomplished fact. It was thought that its significance was more than might appear at first sight ; that there was an underlying principle of greater import than the mere interchange of courtesies. This little book is published that the generous treatment of Northern men by Southern men may be known, and to commemorate an event, tliat it is hoped, by all who participated, will be but the fore- runner of that era of national fraternity on which so much of the future of our great country depends. To ALBERT BALDWIN, Esq., President of the Royal Host, the narrative is dedicated with sincere esteem for him as a man and a citizen, by THE AUTHOR. Table of contents. CHAPTER I. A NEW INVASION. CHAPTER n. THE FIRSr NIGH r QUI CHAPTER III. A CINCINNATI WELCOME. CHAPTER IV. EGYPTIAN HOSPirALirV. CHAPTER V. MISSISSIPPI AND LOUISIANA. CHAPTER VI. IN THE CRESCENT CITY. CHAPTER VII. SUNDAY NIGH r. CHAPTER VIII. ARRIVAL OF THE KING. CHAPTER IX. DINING WITH THE GOVERNOR. CHAPTER X. ACROSS THE CHASM. CHAPTER XI. NEW ORLEANS PLEASURES, CHAPTER XII. A TRIUMPHANT RETURN. TA.BI.E OF CONTENTS.— Continued. APl'ENDIX A.— Official permission to cross the states between New York and Louisiana. APPENDIX P.— A few invitations : Major General W. J. Behan, ist division, L. N. G. to Seventy-first; Invitation to the Jetties; Invitation of N. O. City Railroad; of Company A, Continental Guards; of the "Funny Phorty Phellows;" of Citizens Committe, Grenada, Mississippi; of Deputy Quartermaster General James A. Ekin, U. S. Army; of Colonel Charles S. Spencer, 5th Infantry; of Vice President Gar- rett and Mr. C. K. Lord, B. & O. Road, to his Majesty's dinner at the Palace San Carlos; to reception tendered by Officers of Louisiana National Guard, of the City of New Orleans; to excursion of H. C. Corbin, Acting Adjutant General, U. S. Army. APPENDIX C — The Schedule of railroad time between New York and New Orleans. Rostor of Officers of New Orleans Battalion; Description of the Ban- ner presented to the Regiment by the Royal Host of New Orleans. APPENDIX D.— Odds and Ends : A Relec of the War; the Lone Star Flag; Kindly Warning; General Beauregards' Signature; A Poetic Vetc- eran; At Bull Run; A Contrast; "New York's Favorite;" A Southern Welcome; The band Concert ;"W^elcome Horn?;" "Welcome Guests;" What Cincinnati thought of the Marching; Early History; The Promenade Concert on board the R. E. Lee; A dinner they didn't get; Accepting the Olive Branch; A Dress Parade; A Severe Criticism; "A pleasant representive," "A sympathetic member;" The Battalion's Pride; A gratuitous advertisment; "The handsome correspondent;" the "Commissioner of Charities;" A level-headed Lieutenant Governor; A dandy Drum Major. APPENDIX E.— The Association of the Army of Tennessee, Louisiana Division, to the Seventy- First; The Washington Artillery to the Seventy-first. APPENDIX F.— History of the Carnival in New Orleans, with reference to the Societies whicli foster and support it. CHAPTER I A NEW INVASION. "O Peace! thou source and soul of social life; Beneath whose calm, inspiring influence Science his views enlarges, Art refines, And swelling commerce opens all her ports." — Thompson. Twenty ye?rs ago the roar of a cannon on the shore of South Carolina proclaimed a fratricidal strife in America. The chain of brotherly love was broken. From Northern w^orkshops and Southern fields went a milHon of men to end by force of arms what force of ai-gument had failed to accomplish. The line of battle was drawn, and face to face stood brother and brother. Twenty years ago the Seventy-first was one of the first organized regiments to oifer its services to the National Government. For years the regiment had been dis- tinctively called the American Guard, and its reputation was not unknown to the autliorities at VVashiny-ton. Its services were accepted. It is no part of tlie duty of the writer to tell the stor}^ of that conflict. It is written deep- ly enough in American soil. With that history the Sev- enty-first has indissolubly and most honorably interwoven its name and fame. In 1861 it left its armory for the South. Strong men were moved and women wept as with steady ranks and grave faces the men marched down Broadway. The drums seemed to roll a funeral march. Many never came back — side by side with those who wore the gray-- they lie in the sunny fields of the South. The flae was their shroud, the battle field their sepulchre. In 1 88 1 again the order came to march ; again there were the busy scenes at the armory; again the drums rolled out along Broadway. But it was no funeral roll tliis time, faces were smiling now, cheers and "God bless you's " took the place of tears and lamentati(jns. The Louisiana regiments which had plunged into the fire and smoke of Bullrun to find the American Guard firm and steady amid the carnage, now waited with outstretched arms on the banks of the Mississippi, to welcome as bro- thers, those whom they had before met. as foes. In 1 86 1 they met with crossed bayonets. In 1881 they met with clasped hands. It was a new invasion of the South, but the olive and the magnolia twined about the rifles and the old flag rose and fell over all. It was no mere frolic that took the Battalion of the 7 Seventy-first to the South. The men who formed the ex- pedition were not idlers ;' they did not enter into the ex- pedition with idle motives. From the highest in rank to the drummer, they had occupation at home. They were in fact the peers of their fellow citizens who remained be- hind. "With malice toward none," the Pelican had bowed its stately head to the Empire State and said : "We of the South are anxious to show to you of the North that the war is over. The throbbing- of the war drums is hushed, the rancor of the past is gone forever. The soldiers of the South are Americans like yourselves, they have been and are misrepresented by designing men, and they are tired of misrepresentation. The old sec- tional bitterness is swallowed up in the desire for a new era of peace and brotherly love. Come and visit us that we may show you how sincere we are." And it was a mission of no slight import. Representa- tive Southern men had issued the invitation. The Roval Host of New Orleans, probably the most powerful socie- ty in the Southern States, having for its object the devel- opement of the financial and commercial interests of the South, and knowing no politics, no creed, headed the in- vitations with the offer of generous hospitality. The City of New Orleans, the State Government of Louisiana, the active National Guard and the veterans of the war joined in the tender of warm friendship. These offers of good will made the expedition a necessity. Its wisdom cannot be doubted, since the result is known. Hardly was the announcement made, when other States, Cities and towns w^lieeled into line and showered on the Battalion of the Seventy-first such an accumulation of honors as to raise the expedition to the dignity of National interest. Those who accompanied the expedition believed that tlie extra(M-dinary reception accorded it on all sides and at every little hamlet eii route, was a display of genuine feel- ing. The train bearuig the blue coated soldiers of the North passed through many States, and it was nearest the heart of the old confederacy that the reception was warmest. No amount of dragooning for the sake of pol- icy could have controlled the country sections of Kentuc- ky and Mississippi. Yet there were hundreds of people who flocked about the stations and extended the right hand of fellowship, while there was not a single instance of unfriendliness. Thus it was that the men of the Seventy-first knowing that the eyes of the South at least were on them and with a heart-felt desire to meet the proffered friendship more than half-way, left New York, to return overwhelmed with kindness and hopelessly in- debted to their hosts. The 24th of February was a cold blustering day. The sun came out brilliantly enough in the morning but its ra3^s were tempered with keen winds that searched every nook and corner for victims. The old armory was chilly notwithstanding the roaring fires that armorer Kennedy kept bright. Hundreds of men rushed about here and there preparing for a march that was to be memorable in the history of the regiment. Such an accumulation of blue noses and frosted ears it is probable, was never seen in the armory before. Young recruits listened to grey headed veterans as they told the story of the march of 20 years ago. The large garrison flag was flying from the roof and attracted attention from passers by. The wagons of the quartermaster gathered about the doors were being rapidly filled and there was altogether a scene of unusu- al bustle and activity. The order came to march, and the regiment filed out into the street and presented arms as the New Orleans Battalion marched past. There was a biu'st of melody from the band, and they were oif down Broadway. The winds swept up from the lower bay with fierceness, and the themometer kept sinking until every- thing cracked. The sidewalks were crowded, nevertheless, and the regiment greeted with enthusiastic cheers. The music of the band died out by degrees, the musicians puffed and blew until their faces already red with the cold, became purple. Drum Major Jenks twirled his staff and fiercely pulled his mustache, and Bandmaster Joyce shook his cornet and swore till everything was blue. But it was of no use. The music was frozen I The special train waited at the foot of Liberty Street. The engine was gay with flags and streamers, and the rail- road officials were smiling. The last wordi^ were said, good-bys spoken, and the train was off. There was a erand series of salutes from two or three hundred torpedoes that the railroad officials had taken care to place on the tracks. The train moved away smoothly and swiftly, and was soon far out of the sound of tlie enthusiastic cheers of those of the Seventy-first who remained at liome. Imme- diately behind the engine came the commissary and quar- termaster's cars. Over the former commissary Jacob Hess presided, and ihe myrmidons of Ac ting Quartermaster O. C. Hoffman smashed the baggage in the latter. Fol- lowing these,came three elegant passenger coaches, and they were followed in turn by four palace cars. The lead- ing- car bore banners on either side. On one was incribed "Seventy-first Regiment, en route New York and New Or- leans." The other bore the legend :— Seventy-first New York, Louisiana Tigers — 1861-1881." These banners proved a constant source of amusement to the people along the route, and at every stopping place were surrounded by a throng of gaping rustics. It took about two hours for the boys to settle down. Each com- pany was assigned a car, the officers and guests occupying the others. Bandmaster Joyce, wli<3 was almost heart- broken at his inability to get any music out of ills band in the march down Broadway, explained the matter bv show- ing how the instruments were frozen. Drum Major Jenks on the contrary was in ? high state of glee over tlie ef- ficiency of the drum corps and tlie fact that tlie drums could not freeze up. The Drum Major's elation, however, was destined to be of short duration, for just before the train reached Philadelphia he was seized with sudden and mysterious cramps. Major Bryant and Hospital Steward Ingard took him in liand, and by the time Wilmington was reached, Jenks was himself again, and smiled cheer- fully at the Wilmington girls, who gathered around to ad- mire his gorgeous uniform. There w^as no delay of importance and the train in due time reached Baltimore, but in the mean time the party had been entertained by the Commissary. When the train was "about two hours out from New York, the com- panies were marched into one of the forward cars where a table had been arranged and a seat provided for each man. The inenu comprised, besides coffee, excellent bread and butter, all sorts of pickles, cold turkey, chicken, ham, tongue, roast and corned beef, and it is needless to say that the boys did all they could in that direction, their good intentions being fortified by the long and cold march before embarking. This programme was varied very slightly during the en- tire trip. Three meals a day were served on board the cars and coffee was picked up at certain stations. This was thought to be a better plan than depending on way stations. The stations how^ever, w^ere not entirely neglect- ed, for many of the party were glad to snatch a warm meal now and again. Baltimore was reached just as the shadows of evening were deepening. The train was boarded by a large del- egation of gentlemen, who, making their way to the head- quarter car, announced themselves as officers of the Fifth 12 Maryland. Tliey were warmly received and while the train was being ferried across the river, pleasant little speeches were made, the first of the trip, by the visiting officers and several of Ours. The Marylanders brought with them a peculiar shaped box, which the Chaplain persists to this day in calling a "grain elevator." It cer- tainly did look like one, the outside at any rate. It was said to be good grain too and to show^ a very high state of cultivation. As we crossed the river, the heavy booming of distant cannon was heard. "What is that ?" everyone asked his neighbor. " It is the salute from Fort McHenry" we were informed. The booming grew more distinct as w^e neared the bank. It w^as almost quite dark and yet the' outlines of the old fort were dimly seen, w^iile from the ramparts there blazed the "loud mouthed advocates of war. " Quickly it passed from car to car that the famous old fort was saluting us, w^here years ago it w^as asked : "On that shore, dimly seen through the mists of the deep, Wliere the foes haughty liost in dread silence reposes What is that which the breeze, o'er the towering steep. As it fitfully blows, now conceals, now discloses? Now it catches the gleam of the morning's first beam In full glory reflected, now shines on the stream ; 'Tis the star-spangled banner ! Oh, long may it wave O'er the land of the free and the home of the brave ! " The train halted and the band played the music of the grand old song, while the men cheered themselves hoarse in response to Captain J. G. Ramsay's and the Second U. S. Artillery's loud spoken compliments. The entire detachment regretted sincerely that night had fallen as a screen between it and the gallant battery. CHAPTER II THE FIRST NIGHT OUT. " Most glorious night Thou wert not sent for slumber ! let me be A sharer in thy fierce and far delight, — - A portion of the tempest and of thee !" —Byroih "Good Michael, look you to the guard to-night, Let's teach ourselves that honorable stop Not to outsport discretion." —S/ia/cs. The first night out ! How its memories will imperisli- ably cling to those who were on the train ! Baltimore was a thing of the past and even Bandmaster Joyce who had been waiting up to catch a view of Washington, con- sented to retire when the Capital City was forty miles in 14 tlie rejir. The train went through the city so quietly that only a favored few were permitted a sight of Pennsylvania Avenue, with its long vista of lights stretching far away into the gloom and the magnificent dome of the Capitol brilliantly shining with its myriad fires. One by one the wearv soldiers sought their bunks — they thought — to sleep perchance to dream of future peaceful conquests. But alas I it was not to be. The combination of events on that night were too powerful to be resisted. Sleep was out of the question. To the wild spirits on board, nature lent aid and hardly were the sports of man completed ere the elements played havoc with the hours of darkness that re- mained. When the train left Jersey City, guards v.^ere regularly mounted, and the usual officers of the day and guard assumed charge of the welfare of the party. In the officers' car there was a choice quartette. Mr. C. K. Lord, General Passenger Agent of the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad, is a gentlemen whose face and physique denotes the happy traits of character he possesses in an eminent degree. Full of fun and good humor and withal a rail- road official of ability, he made friends of all whom he met during his short stay with the train. Mr. Charles P. Craig, General Eastern Passenger Agent of the same line was almost a counterpart of Mr. Lord save as to physique. Mr. Frank Marsh, General Eastern Passenger Agent of the Jackson route, was as genial and attentive as a man could well be, and he and Mr. Craig, both of whom accompanied the party on the entire trip, became exceedingly popular SHOW VOUR TICKET.' with both officers and men. The fourth spirit of this quartette, was Mr. Theodore Lee, manager of the Amer- ican Bank Note Company. He was as natty and bright as one of his own bank notes, and his wit and good fel- lowship were as clean cut as are the steel engravings of the institution with which he is connected. These gentlemen, not without help however — contrived to set the ball roll- ing. Everyone on the train was trying his be^t to sleep, when Lord and Lee got thirsty. The ''Spirit of the 5th Maryland" was safely tucked away in the Surgeon's de- partment, and as it had been announced that Dr. Bryant slept with a lancet in each hand, they did not think it al- together advisable to awaken him. After a solemn con- sultation in the end of the parlor car, they determined to consult Craig. He grumbled a little, but got up and joined the plotters. They looked about for a victim. A sonorous snore came from Marsh's bunk. It was startling in its distinctness, and seemed to suggest something to Craig. The conspirators adjourned tu the platform, and Craig unfolded his plan. Then Lee and Lord went into a corner, lighted cigars and awaited developments, while Craig went to look for the officer of the day. That offi- cial was dozing in a forward car. "Captain" said Craig solemnly, "there is a man in the officers' car, who has no ticket and does not belong to the regiment." "Better wake up quarter-master Hoffman." "He looks like a very decent man ! " i6 "F'erhaps there is some mistake. Better call up Col- onel Vose and consult him. I do not want to put a man off at this time of night and such a night" continued the officer of the day drawing his cloak around him with a shiver as the snow flakes flew past the window. "Well, I think he ought to be seen to" insisted Craig. ''Come along then" said the officer, and the two men went into the carw^here the other conspirators had turned down the lights, and stood awaiting the denouement. Marsh w^as sleeping the sleep of the just railroad man. His face was wreathed in peaceful smiles — at least it was so thought, it being too dark to ascertain such facts abso- lutely--nothing but an occasional gentle sigh was heard from the location where his form, dimly outlined in a blanket, was seen. In a moment his rest was over, for the hand of the officer fell heavily on his shoulder, and a hoarse voice sounded in his ear ! "Where is your ticket, and how did you get on this train." "Go away and let me sleep" he mumbled, turning over and taking a new grip on the side of the bunk. "You must w^ake up and show^ me your ticket." "Oh go to the deuce, and let me be," said the unfor- tunate man. "Sergeant, bring a file of men here," was the next thing. Craig almost betrayed himself at this point by choking violently, and Lee and Lord had to go out on the platform notwithstanding the storm, in order that r.heir screams might be lost amid the howling of the winds. The men came — Marsh was hauled out and his identity discovered to the astonishment of the men when a lantern was held to his face. The officer of the day arrested the- entire par- ty, and took them into the Commissary's car where nimier- ous baskets of wine were stored. It was their opportunity and Marsh opened a number of bottles. Then Craig went to bed and fell asleep, and the arch conspirators, Lee and Lord went into executive session again. After matters had quieted down. Marsh went to the Quartermaster and gravely informed him that there was a disreputable man on board who had no ticket ! The Quartermaster was of course highlv indignant and went to the officer of the guard, as the officer of the day had gone to sleep. That official went in and performed the same ceremonies with Craig, that his superior had with Marsh, and the latter was by no means an uninterested spectator. Craig had rxj get up and on the usual adjournment to the Commissary's car, opened what was left of a case of Jules Mumm. In tlie morning the storv was told to the few that did not know it, and was considered an excellent joke. It was not fully appreciated however, until the announcement was made that it had been a basket of Colonel Vose's pri- vate stock that had gone down the throats of the conspi- rators and the guards. It cost the railroad men more than a basket, to set matters right. It was long after midnight when the revels thus began, ended. Leaving Baltimore, the train was nearly three hours be- i8 hind time owing in part to delay in starting, and partly to a detention at Philadelphia, where the tracks of the Bal- timore and Ohio crossed those of the Pennsylvania road. It was decided to make up this time before reaching Cin- cinnati. On this side of the AUeghanies, the train was met by a heavy snow storm which more or less delayed the ascent. The best engine on the road was put on the train at the summit, and " Chickahominy " was given charge of her. The engineer was given the name because of some daring experience he had had at that battle, and whatever that experience may have been " Chickahom- iny " will linger with us forever as the synonym for bold- ness in locomotive driving. When everything was ready for the downw^ard trip, Mr. Lord went forward and said a few words to the engineer. There was a hurried consultation of railroad officials and the signal to start was given. '' Chickahominy " tried his valves, looked forward into the driving snow ; blew an un- earthly whistle and opened the throttle. We w^ere off ! The whistle was like the wail of some monster, plunging in- to a bottomless abyss. Faster fell the snow and faster flew the heavy train. It was well that few of the party really knew the horrors that encompassed them. On either side were mountainous caverns, in the far depths of which could they have seen the giant trees were dwarfed to in- significence. Through tunnels, over bridges, around curves, we plunge with frightful speed and — " Mountain on mountain exultingly throws Through storm, mist and snow its bleak crags to the sky." 19 It was an awful ride, down those mountains. The pace grew faster as the moments passed, until no one could sleep. " Fifty miles an hour" whispered one railroad man to another. " Yes and getting faster," was the response. "Its sixty now" was said in less than five minutes, and the men closed their watches, and with close knit brows, held firmly to the nearest support. The great sleeping coaches made lurches now and again that prevented any- one from staying in bed. Everything movable was thrown about, and the pitching was like a ship in a heavy sea. Very many of the party were sea-sick, and all were ready for the final lurch wiiich seemed to approach with every curve. Swaying from side to side, flying through space, the train sped on. There was no slaking, no uncertainty about it. Every man realized that when " Chickahom- ny" had opened the throttle valve, he intended to make the fastest run on record. He was the man to do it, and he did it. He knew that every approaching curve miglit be his last, but he also knew that the track had been cleared ahead, and that he was responsible for nothing but the speed of his train. Down and further down the moun- tains we plunged, over a grade of 125 feet to the mile, and nothing could be heard but the howling of the wind and intermingling with it, an occasional exulting shriek from the engine as some mountain station whisked l)y. As the first break of day chased the gloornv shadows and showed the rocky passes through which we whirled, all covered with a snowy fleece, the final lurch came. With tlie roar of a wounded lion, the engine slakened and stopped, all smoking and panting like some high bred steed, that had done its best devoir, and awaited the plaudits of the crowd. " Chickahominy " wiped his brow, lighted his pipe and got down from the foot board all white and ner- vous, like a man who had passed through the ordeal of a lifetime. The boys of Ours flocked about the iron monster, and with a soldiers disregard of dangers passed, laughed and joked-with each rjther. The snow ceased falling, and the sun came out. " Chickahominy" had done his duty. We were on time to the minute ! Cfl AFTER III A CINXINNATI WELCOME. Whoe'er has travelled life's dull round, Where'er his stages nay have been, May sigh to think he still has found The warmest welcome at an inn. — Shciisto)ic. They eat, they drink, and in communion sweet Quaff immortality and joy. —Milton. When the Delaware river was crossed, the men thronged the windows and platforms of- the cars, and shouted '' where is George, oh where is George ! " Several natives who stood about the train, and \\\\o evidently bore the first name of the father of his country, blushed with con- scious pride, and stood out in bold relief, as if to say " there 22 may be a number of George's about here, but if you refer t(j the George, why here I am ". The boys continued to shout however for " George " with an occasional addenda of *'Wash," until the river was far in the stern. The ice was there, the flat boat w^as there, but the figure of the General was wanting. The remembrances of the crossing of the Delaw^are seemed to linger with the party, and so w^ien the whistle blew for Cincinnati, the platforms were filled again, and the boys began to ask for the pigs, *' Where are the pigs ? " asked one, of a laborer who was standing near the track, as the train drew up at the station. '' In the cars bedad ! " was the ready response. If the pigs of Cincinnati were not seen in great num- bers in the streets, the mud upon which their fellow crea- tures thrive in the North certainly was. There was mud everywhere. The First Regiment of Infantry, Ohio Na- tional Guard, was found waiting at the depot. They were uniformed in the old United States fatigue, and one effect of our visit, was a movement on the part of the city to properly uniform this command. They deserve recog- nition, for they marched w^ell and were a steady and soldierly body of men. They were, of course, muddy and so were we after marching 15 minutes. At Cincinnati, we were to leave the Baltimore and Ohio, and take the Oliio and Mississippi and Jackson routes for the far South. A perfect swarm of railroad men came down on us at Cin- cinnati. With the combination of talent that interested itself in our behalf, it w^as really a remarkable thing that 23 the train escaped entire destruction. A list of a few of them may not prove uninteresting at this point, for it was at this point that we began to reahze that we were utterly helpless in the hands of these men, Frank Marsh had recovered his usual good spirits, notwithstanding the se- vere dressing down that he, Craig and Lee had received from the Colonel for their escapade of the last chapter, and Marsh had some reason to be in good spirits. Were we not to be on the great Jackson route in a few short hours, and consequently at his mercy ? But to return to the other railroad men who were flying about, giving or- ders, and consulting as to the probability of our colliding with the Swamptown express at Pohasket, or some other train somewhere else. There w^ere of course C. K. Lord and Charles P. Craig who were almost in tears, because we were obliged to change from the '' B and O Sleepers " to the comparatively crude and' uncomfortable ''Pull- man's ;" there was Marsh, happy as a Mississippi pilot, astride of a snag, running around w4th his hands full of telegrams ; there w^as Thomas P. Barry of the Marietta and Cincinnati railroad, otherwise known as the " Par- kersburg route," who was urging on some of the officers the superiority of Cincinnati whiskey to that of Baltimore; there was Mr. C. S. Cone, Jr., General Passenger Agent of the Ohio and Mississippi road, and his friend Mr. S. Horace Goodin, both of whom accompanied us further South, and made many friends among our party; there was William Murray, who in his august person, represented 24 three railroads at New Orleans; J. E. Rose, Master of Transportation, Marietta and Cincinnati route ; William Clements, Master of Transportation, of the Baltimore and Ohio road, who was regarded with reverence as the man under whose direction we had been almost sacrified to " time " in coming over the AUeghanies ; William West of the Marietta and Cincinnati road, wdiose courtly demeanor when counting the detachment, was the admiration of all observers, and three or four others whose names are not at hand. All this time the First Ohio, was standing patiently in the mud, and the boys of Ours in their dress uniforms, were forming the battalion, while everybody stood in the way. The police arrangements of the city were about as bad as the mud, but the policemen were anxious enough to do something for us. . It was probably in the strength of that desire, that they would occasionally whack some inoffensive looking specimen of humanity that viewed the procession open mouthed. The First Ohio was still in the mud as we passed out of the depot and waded towards it. Colonel Hunt presented arms, and Ours went by at three-quarters speed. Then we made fast to the bank, and the First paddled by us in column of fours, in single rank. They seem to take most kindly to the column of fours in single rank all through the vSouth. The sidewalks were literally packed with men, women and children, who were not particularly enthusiastic, but treated the men with great kindness nevertheless. After the usual formal- 25 ities, the line of parade was taken up. The two regiments marched through Elm to Fourth Street, eastward to Vine, northw^ard to Seventh, westward to Central avenue, north- ward again to Fifteenth, eastward to Elm, southward to Court, through Race to Eighth, and Walnut to Fifth. The line of march was crowded with ladies and gentlemen. At almost every corner the houses were decorated, and on a prominent point at Fourth Street, an arch was erected, bearing the words, " Welcome to the Seventy-first." After the parade, arms were staked on the Esplanade, and the battalion was entertained at dinner at the Gibson House. This dinner at the Gibson House was rather a pleasant affair, though somewhat hurried. There were no speeches. There was no time for that sort of thing. The dining- room in the Gibson House is a spacious one, and in many w^ays, well fitted for a public dinner. Tables were laid in long rows, with some at right angles in one end of the room. At one of these sat Colonels Hunt and Vose in stately grandeur, neither of them daring to eat much, and both more or less famished. The men occupied the other tables and rattled the china in feeble imitation of Jenks and his motley " Krewe. " There was very little time after dinner, and a portion of that was to be devoted to a parade. So everyone hurried away in quest of barbershops, cigar stores and similar institutions. A small but exceed- ingly select company hunted up an accident insurance office, and exclaimed in a body : '' We want to get insured ! " 26 The clerk looked in a bewildered way at the uniforms, and sliook his head sadly. "Wha — what do you mean ? " was the next shout. " When does the light come off ?" ''Oh 'come oft" yourself" said an irreverent private in the rear, whereupon the clerk retired and his place was taken by a higher official, who smiled blandly at the tableau of gold lace before him. "You want accident insurance tickets gentlemen ? Cer- tainly. I shall be obliged to charge a small increase on our regular rates, because of the circumstances you know — fast special train and all that sort of thing you know — " The tickets were procured, and the party departed very much pleased. " My wife told me the very last thing" said one of the party, to get an insurance ticket for $i,ooo. ' Because ' said she, ' you know dear, that no one ever gets killed who is insured, and if an accident should occur, how much more pleasant it would be to think that you would be cared for ! ' " The parade to the depot of Ohio and Mississippi road was almost a repetition of the march to the hotel, except that the throng of sight-seers liad increased and it was almost impossible to press through. The police had evi- dently never seen such a thing as a military parade, and it never occured to them that the First Ohio and the Sev- enty-first were anything but a sort of second class circus show. We marched in colimin of companies and only about ten files front at that, but could not preserve the CINCINNATI MUD. 27 formation for lialf a block because of the wagons, cars and people that crowded the street and blocked the way. After ever3'thing was ready and the procession was under way, it appeared something like this : Mud. Eigliteen Small Boys. Six Policemen, (Out of Step with the Music.) Colonel Hunt and Staff, Baker's Wagon and Two Little Girls. Mud. Band of the First Ohio. One Street Car drawn by a Mule. (Jne Man distributing Circulars of a Pain Eradicator. First Company, 1st Ohio. Second Company, ist Ohio. One Policeman, evidently lost. Third Company, ist Ohio. Delegations of Citizens on foot. Two clean Street Cars and One Dirty Butcher's Cart. Drum Major Jenks. Mud. Band of the 71st. Colonel Vose and Staff. First Company, 71st. Mud. Second Company, 71st. Three Brewer's Wagons. Third Company, 71st. Delegation of Citizens in Carriages — more or less full. Fourth Company, 71st. More Mud. Promiscuous Citizens. The parade was continued to the depot, and the cars boarded amid cheers. The courtesies shown the party by 28 the First Ohio were thoiouglily appreciated, and a feeling of great friendliness sprang np between the men. The Cincinnatians left nothing undone to make our stay a pleasant one, and notwithstanding some little drawbacks, already referred to, the men retain very pleasant mem(;- ries of the citv. CHAPTER IV tGYt'TLVN HOSPnAl.IlV. '•Away down South in Dixie, Look away ! look away ! Away down South in the land of cotton, Cinnamon seed and sandy bottom, Look away ! h:)ok away ! Away down South in Dixie I '" Cincinnati was far awa}- before morning. The second night was a quieter one than the first, and most of the men slept well In that connection, it is not more than fair to say that the sleeping arrangements were excellent during the entire 'trip. The cars were commodious, and the men who did not take sleeping berths, could make themselves very comfortable. Those who did prefer to go to bed 30 were fiirnislied by the quartermaster with a ticket like tliis : Sleeping Car, No LOWER BERTH. Section No Mr 71ST Rkgimi^nt Special Train. Just what those tickets were for, was something " no feller could find out" although it was surmised that they meant sometiiing, because thequartermastercamethrougli the train just before it reached New Orleans, and asked to see the ''sleeping checks. " He only saw about half of them, because the other half had been torn iuto little square checks for some mysterious purpose, but he seemed just as well pleased as if he had got them all. The even- ing was a most pleasing one to those of the party who gathered in one of the cars, for there a sextette of the band played a varied selection of popular and operatic music, while a number of singers and speakers filled in the time allowed the musicians to fill up with wind and spirits — "of the Fifth Maryland." The train rolled stead- ily during the night, and in the early morning Cairo was announced to be in siglit. It is a forlorn place in every sense of the word. Lying on a tongue of land protruded between th.e Oliio and the Mississippi rivers which unite 3^ just below it, it should be a garden of flowers. It is almost a barren waste of mud, but it is a pictiu"esque place never- theless, dirty and scrawny as it is. Straggling lines of unkempt houses in the background, a fringe of naked trees along the river front, and a few flat bottomed steam- boats puffing here and there — such is this once famous military depot. The c;ars had to be taken from the tracks here, and put on others of a wider guage. This was rather a tedious business, although the master of the workmen swore and raved at them until the very jack- screws looked askance. When the cars were ready, they were rolled on an enormous ferryboat to cross the Ohio into Kentucky. The boat was a peculiar looking thing, if anything more ugly and unweildy than the Maryland that plies our waters at liome, and carries cars between Jersey City and Morrisania. But she was well handled and stemmed the muddy current bravely for Egypt's shore. There was a man in Cairo who kept a huckster shop. To him was intrusted the duty of providing coffee for the party. He had never probably seen so large a party of coffee drinkers, and his sympathies were evidentlv not with the "Yanks. " He was the only man in the whole Soutliern trip that the writer wanted to kill, and he don't know but he may re-visit Cairo at some future time for that purpose. He did not only give us bad coffee, but he soiu'cd it with such an ungracious manner and surly speech, that had an alligator crawled out (^f his native mud and swallowed him, coffee, alleged sugar and all, it would 32 liave been a pleasing sight — but a very disagreeable thing for the alligator no doubt. Shakespeare in the Comedy of Errors, describes this man — or another just like him as follows : "They brought on Punch, a hungry, lean-faced villian, A mere anatomy, a mountebank, A threadbare juggler and a fortune-teller, A needy, hollow-eyed, sharp looking wretch, A living dead man:" Peace to his ashes ! Egypt presented little hope of breakfast, though it was said that far down the track, there were several houses where "something" might be purchased. The men and officers scattered to forage. The writer and one or two others found a place where the smiling housewife said that she could and would prepare a meal at 25 cents a head. Never was a breakfast more enjoyed, and there is not a man of the 20 that sat down but remembers the Egyptian hospitality with thankfidness. The fare was as follows : Genuine Kentucky Bean Coffee, (Much better than it sounds.) Hoe Cake. Ham and Eggs. Hominy. Real Milk. Very good Butter and Bread. Pork Steaks and Fried Potatoes. Pickles and Apple Sauce. Other houses opened their doors to the hungry soldiers and many a face that frowned when leaving Cairo, was wreathed in smiles when the whistle blew for a departure 33 from Egypt, fur the memory of li(>»g, hominy and hoe cake lingered with the men. There was a ruinous old barrack building near the railroad that interested the party very much. All this section of country was at one time covered with regiments, and some of the veterans of Ours had passed over the ground in the days gone by. The only wonder was how they could have lived on such a peculiar soil. The ground was swampy and the low banks of the river were everywhere overflowed. The flat bottom steam- boats attracted more than ordinary attention, and much chaffing was indulged in between the coffee-colored deck hands and the boys of Ours. Several old darkies stood about the cars and asked questions, seemingly much in- terested in the uniforms. Two officers approached a house standing back a short distance from the river, more from curiosity than anything else. Three or four little picka- ninnies were playing before the door. One of the officers called the youngest of the boys to him, and patting him on the head, asked him his name and age. The little fel- low hung down his head and ran away confused Just at this moment his mother, a woman of fifty or thereabouts, opened the cabin door. In a moment she appeared to appreciate the situation. "Granville Jackson you come right hyar and be spect- ful to the gemmen. Dey is Yank hossifers you 'ittle brack fool and is used to bein' spected. " Granville Jackson however, continued to hang his head and remained at a safe distance. 34 " How do yoii know we are officers ? " the mother was asked. "I golly, I reckon I know hossifers when I see 'em. Used to see right smart of 'em 'bout liyar 'fore the sur- render." " How did you know we were northeners ? " " Knowed that for suah, Colonel, 'cause everybody 'bout hvah was saying dot de Yanks was a comin.' I used to live right over hyar on a place. Is dey hard times in de north since the surrender ? Find it pretty hard 'bout hyar, can't do much no way." It was evident at Egypt that we were really in Dixie. The whole aspect of affairs changed. The firemen of lo- comotives were darkies as were also the brakemen. The conductor of our train was a genuine specimen of one type of a Southener, and everything seemed strange and new. Attention was called to the fact that we were now really in the South ; that we were there as guests ; that the peo- ple were hosts, and that the men should not for a moment forget these things. The orders issued by the Colonel were most cheerfully obeyed and there was not a single instance of a breach in that direction. The wintry aspect of our Northern landscape remained practically imchanged, but the coimtry differed widely from the North in the sparscness of its settlement, and a certain air of lack of capital which seemed to envelope it down to the flowers and birds of the Pelican state. As away the train sped along, through miles of low and swampy 35 ground, a peculiar type of Southern life was made mani- fest. For miles the inhabitants were chiefly negroes who tenanted log cabins, one story high, with chimneys of logs and plastered with mud. Tlie occupants generally owned from one to four acres of land, on which they raise cotton enough to support them in their simple mode of life from season to season. This year the crop w^as botli poor and and backward, owing to the severe winter. In many fields men and women were observed picking the cotton flower. Our train made few stops, but whenever we did draw up at a station, we found a throng of men, women and child- ren, white and black, whose demonstrations were most friendly. As the distance from Egypt was made longer, a marked change in the country was observed, and the climate grew milder. We were passing from wintt^- into spring. The woods and fields gradually put aside their wintrv aspect, and the budding leaves and foliage fortold our approach to summer land. At Milan, Tenneseee, the train stopped for dinner, after which most of the detach- ment lounged about the platforms, and talked with the throng of people gathered to do us honor. A little dar- key, black as a coal, and as lively as a rat, addressing one ot the men asked : '' Be you a Yankee ?" *' Oh, no " was the response "I am a New Yorker." The boy's face grew very thoughtful. His eyes rolled wildly. He looked dejected and inquisitive. A Yankee he knows. But his whole being embodies itself in an in- 36 terrogation mark, and seems to ask : '' What on earth is a New Yorker ?" Oh, Emperial city of Manhattan Is- Land, crowned with trophies, and lassoing the corners of the earth to tliy feet with thy raih'oads and telegraphs, and white sailed ships ! Even thy name and fame liave limitations. There are those to whom thy mighty name is but a meaningless sound. Never having seen a genuine plantation dance, a party soon formed a ring around this same diminutive darkey, whose raiment, scanty even in its original shape, seemed about to leave him altogether. The little fellow shook it down right merrily, executing some movements that would make our "variety specialists" turn green with envy. He was rewarded with a handful of »ickels — probably untold wealth to him, and when the train departed, stood looking after it with wide extended eyes as if a vision of paradise was passing from him. CHAPTER V. MISSISSIPPI AND LOUISIANA. O beauteous Peace ! Sweet Union of a state ! what else but thou Gives safety, strength and glory to a people? — Tho))ipson. Holly Springs is only a short distance over the Missis- sippi border. A signal was flying there for the train to Stop, and stop it did. Hundreds of people crowded about the little station, ladies waved their handkerC!hiefs from the windows and balconies, and a line of soldiers in gray, were drawn up at present arms. They were the Autrey Rifles, and were paraded in our honor. The men were turned out and drawn up in a long line without arms, and everybody awaited developments. Presently a tall 38 and commanding looking man forced his way through the crowd, and bared his head. There was a hush at once. Colonel Vose made his way up the line, and stood near while a number of officers grouped themselves about the two. It was Major General Winfield Scott Featherstone, at one time commanding a Division in the Southern Army, and he addressed us on behalf of the State of Mississippi and the citizens of the County. The General said : *' I welcome you across our border. There was a time when your coming would have occasioned a feeling of fear and distrust ; that was in the bitter past. Thank God it has passed ! (Cheers.) The North and the south never understood one another ; never had a grand convocation until 1 86 1, when the country was in arms from the Atlan- tic to the Rio Grande. Thank God those days are gone. We welcome you here. We want you to see our people and our fertile soil. All we need now is capital. Your coming will do much to make us acquainted. You will find us of the South, as loyal to our country's Hag as you are. (Enthusiastic cheers.) When the time comes for our great country to have a foreign war and we can never have anv other, we will march with you against our com- mon enemy. The Seventy-first New York, will march side by side with the Seventy-first Mississippi, under the same officers, and the same flag, for our cause and our country are one." Colonel Vose responded, thanking the General for his kindly words, and assuring him, that when the moment 39 came, the soldiers of New York would be found ready to march shoulder to shoulder with those of Mississippi to Victory. Then there arose such a yell from the Missis- sippians as few of the boys of Ours had heard in many a day. It was the old '* war yell " given with a vim, and redoubled when the band struck up Dixie and Yankee Doodle. The cheer of the regiment mingled with the prolonged, piercing cry, and the strains of the band were almost lost. General Featherstone stood with his head uncovered, his long white lock's flowing in the wind, his face full of animation and fire, the very beau ideal of the ancien regime. Colonel Vose stood beside him, his long military cloak thrown back, his head erect and features smiling, the beau ideal of a soldier. Their hands were clasped. The whole tableau was spirited and dramatic— the long line of blue uniforms, the smoking train, the gleaming rifles of the boys in gray, the hundreds of anx- ious, curious faces peering over their shoulders, made a picture that the golden sfiadows of the deepening tAvilight exquisitely framed. It was one of the most interesting episodes of the entire trip. The warmth and spontaniety of the greeting made us feel that we were among brothers indeed. A few miles more and we had run into a thunder show- er—remember, this was in February— the lightning flashed vividly, and the rain fell in torrents far into the night. The boys did not care much for that however, as' they were comfortable enough in the cars, and thought that : 40 The poet may talk of his hites and guitars, Or screw up his fiddle of sorrow ; But while we have plenty of pipes and cigars, We'll look for a brighter to-morrow. From a heavy snow storm, to a warm thunder shower in forty-eight hours, was something of a change, but the boys did not spend the night in pondering over it by any means. Many a quiet way-side station that night, echoed with the regimental cheer, which by tlie way, became very popular in the South, and many requests were made for its repetition when once heard. It runs, as near as it can be expressed in print, as follows : Hurrah! Hurrah! Hurrah! Seventy-one! Seventy-one! Seventy-one! Rah! Rah! Rah! S-ssssssssssss! Boom ! Ah!-h-h-h-h!! Siniday morning broke bright and beautiful, and when the train pulled up in Hammond, Louisiana, it was like a June day. The Mowers were in bloom, the trees were green; and the darkies were running about with very little more on than was provided by nature. The large hotel looked inviting, and many a pair of lips were smacked in anticipation of a good breakfast, for it was announced that here we were to meet a company of uniformed men from Buffalo, and that we should consequently be delayed for about two hoiu-s. The hotel was invaded, but alas I the Washington Artillery detachment had stopped there over night, and had eaten the hotel people out of house and home ! The detachment niniibered only' about fifty men, 41 but the hotel man said that he had never seen such eaters in his life. This same detachment welcomed us with a royal salute from field pieces brought up with them from New Orleans the night before. They served the guns magnificently. Every man in the detachment was a vet- eran of the war, and a gentleman of business and social prominence. Their coming so far to meet us, was es- teemed by the men of Ours as a compliment of the high- est order. Many and graphic reminiscences were inter- changed between the veterans of both sides. One of the artillerymen said that he had a bullet in him somewhere — a yankee bullet — and if he could only get it out, he would present it to one of Ours, whereupon one of our veterans declared with tears in his eyes, that he had a piece of a Johnny bullet in his thigh, and that he would give a thousand dollars to get both of them out so they could exchange. Then the two veterans went off to get a drink, and everybody within hearing, wished that thev had a bullet in some portion of their body. Colonel Horton of the Washington Artillery in a few words, referred t(^ the fact that his regiment and the Seventy-first had ex- changed leaden compliments a number of times, and a committee of the army of the Tennessee presented our boys with a handsome silk banner, bearing words of cor- diaJ welcome and greeting.* But, while all this was going on and most of the party were drinking champagne and eating cold sandwiches, a small number of very hungry men were skirmishing for * Appendix l\. 42 a breakfast. Thinos were beginning to look very blue, when a gentleman came forward and tendered the hospi- talities of his house. This was Mr. C. E. Cate, one of the most genial and pleasant men the detachment encoun- tered on the trip. Mr. Cate insisted, and the party made but a feeble show of resistance. His handsome little Villa was situated about a quarter of a mile from the depot, approached by paths shaded with rustling leaves and Hanked with perfumed hedges. The party was ushered into the parlor and presented to Mrs. Cate. We then realized how genuine the desire was, to show us true hospitality. This gentleman was known to none of us ; he was in no way connected with, or responsible for oin* recepticjn. He only knew that we were Northeners, the guests of Louisiana, and consequently of his. His whole manner was a courteous and kind reminder that we were welcome to the sunny S(juth and the sunny hearts of its ])eople. View tlieni near At home, where all their wealth and pride is placed; And there, their hospitable fires burn clear." It was the first instance of the trip where any of the partv had been invited to the home of a Southern gentle- man ; It was only the beginning of a roinid of social at- tention that was unprecedented in the history of any body of travelei's. The train started at last for the Crescent City, fifty miles distant. The organization already referred to, had arrived, and their train followed oiu's. With us went the Washington Artillery, and a special car containing a couple of cannons and innumerable bottles of wine. The fifty miles ride along the river was the most interest- ing portion of the trip. The scenery was entirely new to most of the party. The cabins and houses had a ruinous look. Every now and again, the train whirled by the ruins o+' a cotton press, at one time no doubt, the busy centre of a great plantation. The soil was under cultiva- tion; men were busy plowing the fields that were not un- der water. The woods presented an appearance of dense tropical undergrowth, surmounted with cotton-wood trees, mossy and w^eird-like in their gaunt nakedness. Along the banks of the river were dense groves of the Sycamore, intermingling with the Southern pine, all in leaf, their roots and trunks washed by the overflowing Mississippi. Then an orchard whisked by, the trees in blossom, the perfume permeating the cars, and together with the Mag- nolia and Orange freighting the soft and balmy air with incense until the senses were beguiled to dreaminess, only to be roused by the sharp whistle for New Orleans. C H A P T P: R V I . IN THE CRESCENT CITY. Monarch of heroes in the wide domain Where Freedom writes her signature in stars, And bids her Eagle bear the blazing scroll, To usher in the reign of peace and love. Thou mighty Mississippi! ♦ * * It reigns alone ! Aye gather Europe's royal rivers all — Our Mississippi, rolling proudly on, Would sweep them from its path, or swallow up. Like Aaron's Rod, these streams of fame and song! —Hale. The arrival in New Orleans was uf course tlie feature of the trip. Everyone had looked forward to that mo- 45 ment with more than ordinary interest. It was to be the end of a long journey and the beginning of a week of pleasures and sightseeing. It was no wonder then that when the city was announced, the men thronged the windows and platforms of the cars and gazed curious- ly at everybody and everything. TJie quaint old houses interested all, and the thousands of people who thronged the streets were more interesting than the houses. Our reception was more or less of the conventional sort, but there were some things about it that were curious. The people turned out en masse, and flocked about the cars with words of kindly greeting. The train was taken far into the city before the signal to alight was given. It was rather warm, but the boys did not realize it for awhile. The fact, hoAvever, that the thermometer stood at 78° in the shade, was more or less impressed on their minds before they reached their quar- ters. Of course we alighted from the cars in heavy marching order — as we had left New York. That meant overcoats on and the heavy knapsacks capped with blank- ets. Everybody else was happy and cool in light summer costumes. The military drawn up about the stopping place consisted of the Battalion of Louisiana Field Ar- tillery, Colonel Le Gardeur, commanding; the Veteran Company of the AYashington Artillery, Captain C. L. C. Dupuy, commanding; the Battalion of Washington Ar- tillery, Colonel Horton, commanding; the Continental Guards ; the Charleston Cadets, and the Boston Lancers. 46 Then came the Seventy-first in four companies, double rank formation, of course- It was a very curious thing to us to see all the other organizations marching in single rank, and we seemed a genuine curiosity to them because we marched as the tactics provides, "I see you still preserve the old lock step," said a uni- formed gentleman to the writer. ''Why do you call it the old lock step?" was the re- sponse. "Why it is all out of date, is it not?" This conversation w4th a military man serves to show how unpopular the double rank formation was supposed to be. Indeed this matter was so seriously considered, that Colonel Vose was requested at one time to march the command in column of fours at single rank distance, but after consultation with the commandants of com- panies, concluded to preserve the regular formation. This was wise, because it served to distinguish Ours on all parades from every other organization, except the Marines of the North Atlantic Squadron, who marched as we did, of course. The solid appearance the column of companies in double rank gave the battalion, popular- ized it, until the second or third day we received cheers and congratulations for what had first been looked upon as entirely out of all precedent. When everything was ready, the line of march was taken up, down St. Charles, to Lafayette street, to Camp, to Canal, to St. Charles, to Poydras, to the Levee. The march was a perfect ovation. 47 The streets were filled with people, who applauded con- tinually, the houses were decorated, while from every window some lady fair waved a welcome. If there ever was a time for the Regiment to do its best it was then. As is often the case, the men felt this so keenly that they marched wretchedly. It was hot enough though for July, and the moisture poured down their faces and trickled cheerfully from the chin-straps. This was some excuse for bad marching. When the Arsenal of the Wash- ington Artillery was reached there was a halt. Amid the clashing of the bands and the cheers of the people, it was more (jr less difficult to understand what was going on. Tlie C(jlonel rode up and down the line, the very picture (jf misery, the end of his sword dripping (not with gore), and the "end of his nose glistening like a dew drop of an early morning in May. The Major, with one eye on the open door of the Arsenal, and the other on the battalion, stood (in a position similar to the pose of Ajax defying the lightning) seemingly defying the sun to a fiercer attack. Then Major General Behan rode along the line, his swarthy features smiling and his black eves flrtshing response to tlie sun, which bv this time had raised the thermometer to onlv 80", though it felt like 180'^. Suddenly Jenks was observed to straighten up and twirl liis baton. The line was movingi A few steps bnriight us U) the entrance of tlie Arsenal, and we turned in. Along the lines of the Washington Artillerv to the further end of the great hall, larger, if anvthing, than that 48 of the Seventh, at home, we marched and stood around tables, on which were placed goblets of champagne punch. The delightful coolness of the place lingered with the boys for days, and the delightful fragrance of the pimch lingers with them yet. Goblet after goblet was hastily swallowed and there was no unpleasant effect. One could not but exclaim with Pope: "There shallow draughts intoxicate the brain, And drinking largely sobers us again. In the centre of the hall was a great platform, over which was hung the original painting of the meeting of Lee and Jackson, many copies of which are to be foinid through the Southern country. It was a very cheerful scene altogether. Cheer upon cheer rose from the men in the building to be taken up by the thousands on the outside, until everything shook. A moment between drinks was snatched to listen to addresses of welcome, very short ones, from Colonel Horton, Major General Behan, Mayor Shakespeare, Brigadier General Glinn and Mr. Albert Baldwin, President of the Royal Host, to which Colonel Vose responded of course, and the boys let go of the punch glasses long enough to give the regimental cheer. Then we marched to the Levee, and down to our boat, the Robert E. Lee. In some respects we were for- tiniate in regard to oiu- quarters, in others most unfortu- nate. I was juht about to say that the fact of our boat being on the river, was a happy thing in its way, but the boat was not on the river. It was on the mud, a portion of it, and the other portion propped tip against the Levee. 49 The fact is, the Robert E. Lee had brcjken her (more properly his) shaft, and was laid up for repairs. If it had not been for that, the Lord knows what we wcnild have done for quarters, for every house in New Orleans was full. She, or he was lying alongside the planking of the Levee, and an enormous gang plank made a passage to her, or his main deck an easy matter. From her or his main deck, a wide stairway led to the deck above, on which were the cabins and saloons. These cabins and staterooms were very comfortable, but the boat was too faraway from the centre of civilization. That was a great disadvantage, it was entirely too far away from the restaurant where the meals were served. That was a greater disadvantage, besides, there were a number of smaller disadvantages. But there were advantages too. Beside us, rolled the great Mississippi, which from its source, amid the jagged rocks and icy towers, thousands of miles away, slowly like, youthful Titan, gathers strength and pursues its majestic course, until it reigns over the valley it blesses. It was worth a journey of two thousand miles to sit on the decks of our steamer and watch the muddy waters of this Em- press of streams as they danced and sparkled on their way to the sea. Near us were anchored the North Atlantic Squadron, United States Navy, about us were hundreds of steamboats, large and small, hugh flat bottomed things, lying dormant in the day, and puffing about like monsters in the night. Towards the shore, there was the long line of cotton bales, the thousands of colored flags marking tlic owners or consig-ners of freight, tlie darkeys working, pulling here and rolling there, occasionally falling up against the wrong end of a wise and patient mule, and in the back grcumd rose the City, the sun gilding its roofs and spires. It was a plea,sant plnce to be quartered after all. The men were assigned bunks in the staterooms, and some who could not be accommodated in that way, were given c(jts in the main saloon. When evervbody had been settled, it was nearlv dinner time, and tiie arrival of Com- missary Jacob Mess was anxiously awaited, tie came, lie told the boys that they were to be fed at Delmonico's, whereat, the enthusiasm was intense. There was some- thing about the name, that charmed, even tliough " Louis" were a couple (jf thousand miles away. Each man got a ticket like this : DELMONICO RESTAURANT Good f 01- one Meal. SEVENTY-FIRST REGIMENT. With a ticket in hand, each man started iox the restau- rant. But alas and alack, they did not sto]) to inquire the way, and so " Weill u]) tlic low II Aiul down llie lown, .\iul round al^oul the iiiiddic.''' before their eyes were feasted witii a sign, reading . 51 DINING ROOMS OF IHF. SEVENTY-FIRST REGIMENT Up S' AIK':. The dinner was not bad by any means. Tliere was chicken and roast beef, soup, vegetables, relishes, coffee and pies for the first meal, and the average was about the same during the stay. The Robert E. Lee was an interesting boat. It is one of the largest on the river. The cabins are verv much like those of our large boats at home, except that everv- thing is on one deck — that is everything concerning the •passengers. Compared to our boats, it is what living in a flat is to living in a seven story and mansard house. Once on board the Lee, and on the saloon deck, no one ever thinks of going down on the lower deck any more than they would think of dropping over a museum tank, and into a cage of anacondas, because this lower deck is given up entirely to cotton and fifty or so deck hands, as wild and turbulent as men can be. No one ever goes down except the officers, and they invariably drag a gatling gun after them. Hardly a trip is completed unaccompanied by a stabbing afray among the deck hands, and in manv instances, these affairs end fatally. These men are never allowed above and the saloon boys never go down to the main deck. When they do, they very frequently remain down in a "demition moist" state. This main deck is 52 tlie siinic deck upon whicli the ladies cabin is situated, on our bcjats, and very frequently the dining rooms, retiring- rooms, bars and clerk's and captain's rooms. In some instances, as on the North river and Sound boats, the dining-room is situated below this main deck. On the Lee all this was reversed. There was nothing on the main deck for a passenger ; even his baggage was carried to the deck above. The place was reserved for the freight, the roaring tires and fighting crew. There was ncjthing below except a very shallow hold, in which a man could liardly stand upright, for the Lee, like many Mississippi boats, is flat bottomed and very broad of beam. It is hardlv necessary to say that none but the saloon stewards remained on board when we took possession. Engineers, • firemen and deck-hands took a holiday. The main deck was deserted. This deck was opened fore and aft, and the saloons and cabins looked as if they were only stuck up on posts, and removable at pleasure. The guard of heavy timber, running all around the deck, was only about two feet high. About amidship were the boilers and engines. The boilers were not enclosed but stood on the deck, open ;it both sides to the river, and covered above only by the salo(jn flooring. The space between decks was very great. The engines, there were two of them, were queer looking things, utterly different from anything seen in our waters. There was an engineer on eacli side of the boat. It looked as if there was an enormous waste of space, but there wasn't. The I ^ee ran between New Orleans and Vicksburg, 53 and her principal carrying trade was cotton. Enormous quantities of this could be placed on the main deck. It would fill up the space, tier on tier, until the bales would rise several feet above even the guard rails of the saloon deck. At night this lower deck, with its long posts sup- porting the upper deck, its dark and dingy machinery, and its deserted look, was a gruesome place. Did you ever go into a deserted saw mill, near a wood, and an old mill pond, at night? — a haunted mill? There is something of that sort in every country district. Well if you did'nt, try it the first chance you get, and there analyze your feelings. The writer stood at midnight amid the deep shadows of the Lee's lower deck, and watched the weird shapes the flickering light of his lantern cast (there was some-one with him, you may depend) and saw in fancy the great fires roaring; heard the clanking of machinery, the scurrying here and there of the sixty or seventy black deck hands ; heard the hoarse whistle sound in response to another, the quick jingle of the bell, to stop ! to back! to go ahead ! heard the sharp exclamation of the engineer " we just grazed her!" saw a rush toward two fighting negroes; heard a dull thud and a cry of anguish, and, as they carried the body aft, the words "knew that cuss would get knifed this trip." Then the scene changed, and in the fitful light, he saw a procession of shades, who rolled the cotton, laughed and joked, and fought as they might have done in life, but there was no sound save the hollow echo of his foot falls as he hurried away to get a big drink, and go to bed. CHAPTER \'II SUNDAY NIGHT. "Why such impress of shipwrights, whose sore task Does not divide the Sunday from the week? What might be toward, that this sweaty haste Doth make the niglit joint laborer with tlie day?" —S/iah-. It was Sunday night and no one seemed to know it, so busy had the hours been and so exciting was the situation. It is perhaps wrong to say no one, for it is claimed by some that Dr. Carlos Martyn, the Chaplain, did remem- ber it, and even went so far as to suggest to one or two of the officers that a regimental service would be a proper 55 and refreshing thing after so long a journey. Of course the officers agreed with him, but disappeared very sud- denly immediately after. The Chaplain, however, was not to be humbugged in that fashion. If he could not have a service of his own, he would attend some one else's. So he went to church. At least he says he went to church, and as no one else even made that claim, no one dared dispute him. Besides all this, the Chaplain's record in the regiment is good, because there isn't an officer with whom he has not wrestled at some period, in the hope of reform. That was an eventful night for the Chaplain, and not entirely uneventful for many others. What he did and how he served is best told by himself, in his admira- ble lecture, delivered at the Thirty-fourth Street Reformed Church, after the return. The Chaplain says : "Remembering that it was Sunday night, the Chaplain resolved to attend church, especially as it had been found impossible, amid the tumultuous experiences of the day, to hold a regimental service. Making his wav along the streets, he was pleased to see that the warehouses and shops were as closely shut as in New York, though he learned, to his regret, that in the evening the theatres were always open. In due season the First Presbyterian Church was sighted and entered. Though the streets were gav with uniforms and noisy with revelry, it gratified the Chap- lain to find the house of God crowded witli worship- ers — the finest evening congregation he had seen for 56 many a dav, and, as he was told, not exceptional in that church. Having listened to a masterly sermon from the pastor, the Rev. Dr. Palmer, the Chaplain elbowed his wav out, intending to return to his quarters, In this connection it becomes my duty as a truthful his- torian, to relate a painful story. As the Chaplain, a sedate and sober man, as you know, was walking on with characteristic decorum, and, with a propriety suited to the dav, running over in his mind the points (jf that excellent sermon, he fell — not from grace — but he certainly fell. There could be no doubt about that. The fall was too emphatic to permit question. You see, the gutters of New Orleans are peculiar. They are low towards the street and raised towards the sidewalk, and are half as wide as the Mississippi. Their safe navigation demands both knowledge and agility. A stranger from rural New York, the Chaplain was defective in these points. Essay- ing the passage, he stubbed his toe — and lay sprawling ! *'My stars!" exclaimed he — nothing stronger, upon honor. That remark he thought appropriate. He saiv stars. By and bye he picked himself up, collected his scattered fragments and proceeded to take an account of stock, with the following result : Two badly soiled hands; one very dirty coat ; one ditto pair of pants, with a huge rent across the left knee, and a shin seriously wounded in this battle of New Orleans — General Jackson ! how it ached. What to do? That was the question. Now, the Chaplain is a wise man in his generation. He knew that 57 if he returned to the boat in that plight it would be diffi- cult to persuade the unregenerate that he had been to church. Appearances were certainly against him. In a dazed and uncertain way he limped towards the St. Charles Hotel, hugging the shadows, hailed a cab, and without stopping to higgle over the fare, had himself driven to the neighborh(;od of the boat. Alighting on the levee, he paid the cabman, Then the long military cloak he wore was artistically adjusted. Hanging it over those two dirty hands, lifting it well up, so that it should cover the soiled coat, and letting it trail to his boots in a way that hid the damaged trow^sers and the outrageous rent in the knee, the Chaplain tlirew back his head, rushed past the guard at the gangway, glared defiantly at tlie men scattered through the saloon, as who should say : "Thou canst not say I did it ; never shake Thy gory locks at me. " opened his state-room door, and vanished. But the story leaked out. The Chaplain was the victim of misplaced confidence. In a moment of weakness, but with the charming frankness characteristic of an innocent' nature, he embosomed himself to the surgeon of the reg- iment, expecting sympathy — and silence. He remem- bered that it is the function of a physician to believe im- probable stories. Well, he got the sympathy, but the si- lence ? — no ! The next day, at a private dinner party,the irreverent doctor gave his version of the adventure — a 5^^ version, I am bound to acknowledge, highly coniph'merf- tary to his inventive genius. Tliereafter the Cliaplain was kept busv until bed time making explanations — just as though he iiad been a Congressman ! While the Chaplain was at church, or wrestling with the knotty points of Dr. Palmer's seniion in the quiet of the cabin of the Lee, his comrades were scattered about the city, in quest of adventure. By nine o'clock none re- mained on board but the guard, and thev were only there in tiesh. Their spirits were in the city. Eveiy thing was new and strange. The weather was simply perfect. The moon rose over the city and seemed to hover there, while the evening star gleamed close beside it. It was a perfect crescent, and the conjunction appeared to augur that the stars thought well of the crescent city below — so brilliant and gay. As the Chaplain has sorrcjwfuUy remarked, the theatres were all open, and the audiences were large too. In some of them uniforms — blue uniforms — could have been seen. The city was very gay indeed. The princi- pal streets were filled with merry people, who laughed and chatted good humoredly. It was a very different crowd than that of our streets on Sunday night. The church goers and theatre goers mingled harmoniously, each giving the other credit for knowing what pleased them. All about one heard the rattle of foreign lan- guages; French, which is almost as common as English, Spanish, Italian and German, with all the variations those languages are susceptible of. 59 As a matter of fact New Orleans is two cities in one, with Canal street for a dividing line. On either side are to be found the French and Spanish and the American town, but the social lines are not as carefully drawn as the geo- graphical. Canal street is an avenue of great beauty, two hundred feet wide, with sidewalks and carriage ways on each side, and in the centre a raised space, planted with two rows of trees, called the " neutral ground " and utih ized by a line of street cars. The French or Spanish town is very interesting in its antique quaintness. The streets are very narrow, and diverge in an irregular and abrupt way. A walk through them recalled similar strolls in France and Spain, and the occasional sound of voices singing and conversing in those languages adds to the illusion. It may be, doubtless it is, a morbid feeling which prompts the meditative man to pause and look up at the stones of some old house, thinking the while how long those inanimate blocks will remain there, and how many others will gaze up at them when the present beholder is mouldering into dust. Such thoughts may be morbid, but the old Spanish town of New Orleans engendered them on that moonlit Sunday night. With that came an- other thought, that, could the kindred thoughts of others have been impressed on those old stones, how thev would be covered with inscriptions. The stones are there. Their builders are gone, yet nature is as gay, the moon shines as bright, men are as busy in gain-getting as in tlie vears that are past. Well may we exclaim : 6o Who peopled all the city streets A hundred years ago ? Who filled the church with faces meek A hundred years ago ? The sneering tale Of sister frail, The plot that work'd A brother's hurt ; Where, O ! where are the plots and sneers. The poor man's hopes, the rich man's fears. Of a hundred years ago ? Whether the men spent the evening in contemplation of the houses or otherwise tlie writer knows not, though he inclines somewhat toward the latter idea, but certain it is that the ponderous doors of the guard house yawned rather often after midnight, to engulf the luckless wight who had overstaid his pass. It was long after the "witch- ing hour " when the lonely sentry- could accurately count the snores of his comrades, who were dreaming of the morning that was to usher in the King. CHAPTER VIII ARRIVAL OF THE KING. He's a king, A true, right king, that dares do aught save wrong; Fears nothing mortal, but to l^e unjust; Who is not blown up with the flatt'ring puffs Of spongy sycophants; who stands unmoved Despite the justling of opinion. — Mixrstoii. On Monday afternoon His Majesty, Rex, came. His ap- proach had been heralded for days with as much care as though he bore the mightiest sceptre in the universe. Every morning the papers published double leaded and double headed bulletins of the King's condition and his whereabouts. His arrival at the Jetties was flaunted in the face of every man, woman and child who read a New Orleans paper. There were columns of proclamations and edicts. The clerks of the "department of state " were 62 busy for days under the direction of Warwick, Earl Mar- shal, and Bathurst, Lord High Chamberlain of the Empire, completing the final details for his reception and work- ing up the public sentiment to a just appreciation of the honor that was about to be conferred on the city. While all this hubbub was in progress the Royal Host and the Societies connected with it were quietly preparing for the processions of Tuesday. No one seemed to know just where these preparations were being made or by whom they were directed. No one seemed to care. Everyone knew that there was to be a scenic display that was prom- ised to far eclipse anything of the kind they had ever seen. Where it was to come from troubled no one. They were satisfied that the arrangements were in proper hands and that in good time they w^ould see all that was promised. The chariots and floats would have made Barnum sick with envy, but the places where they were stored put to blush the dreariness of circus tents off duty. There w^as no crowd about the place though ; no women and children pushed and struggled to get a glimpse through the half open doors and no small boys climbed, at the risk of their necks, the peaks and gables of the adjoining houses. Had such a mass of scenic treasure been stored in New York it would have taken half a thousand policemen to keep the place from being overrun. A large steamboat went down the river, starting early in the morning. There was gathered on board a select company of ladies and gentlemen. The boat went down the river " to mee^ the King," but just wliere His Majestv got on board was kept a profound mysterv. When about five miles away from the city, it was announced that His Majesty was in the grand sah)on and, amid the popping of champagne corks, his health was drank and liis praises sung. "The presence of a king engenders love Among his subjects, and his royal friends." The steamer stood up the river towards Canal street and presently the levee, black with his surging subjects, came in view. It was a sight long to be remembered. Along the river front, flanked with hundreds of bales of cotton, stood thousands of men, women and children awaiting his coming. Away up Canal street, roval itself in appearance, as far as the eye could reach were, line upon line, the glittering bayonets and waving plumes of the military. Close upon the river's front were the bhie uniforms of Ours and the United States Marines. A hun- dred gallant horsemen, — Dukes of the Empire every one — gay in the royal purple and gold, awaited their master's coming at the landing stage. There was a salvo of artil- lery as his Majesty stepped on the sacred soil of his capi- tal city. Never did monarch enter a gayer capital. Since the royal fleet had set sail from Utopia nature had smiled upon his favorite. The clouds had tied from the heavens, the soft breezes had come up from the tropics and staved long enough to burst the buds, open the sweet violets and raise the grass above the sod. He landed amid the cheers 64 of thoLiScinds, the waving of flags and the booming of can- non. Batteries roared on the shore and the heavy ord- nance of the North Atlantic squadron, United States Navy, shook the houses. No monarch ever entered a more loyal city. As his boat came up the river, covered with craft crowded with the beauty of New Orleans, the yards of the men-of-war were manned, the ships dressed and the high- est honors paid him. More could not have been done had Rex been monarch from Pole to Pole. Amid the plaudits of the people he mounted the royal carriage and passed through long lines of military gathered to do him honor. About half way up the line there came a pause: "The guards mechanically formed in ranks Playing, at beat of drum, their martial pranks ; Shouldering and standing as if struck to stone, While condescending Majesty looks on." The Mayor on bended knee presented the golden keys of the city resting on cushions of purple velvet. Drums rolled, cannons roared, swords flashed in air, standards drooped and Rex was King indeed. Then came the military parade escorting the King to the Opera House. The post of honor was accorded to Ours and the colonel commanded the first division of the Imperial army, which consisted of the marines, regulars, Seventy-first, three regiments of Louisiana troops and two batteries of artillery. The two other divisions were equally imposing. Amid the pomp and ceremony of the arrival proclamations were distributed broadcast, calling on the people to make merry on the morrow with deconmi and propriety. 65 There can be no question of the seriousness of the New Orleans Carnival. It costs a great deal of money and a great deal of time, which, by the way, is not regarded as so exact an equivalent for money in the South as we in New York regard it. This marching and counter marching, tliis blaring of trumpets and issuing of proclamations means something. It is a huge business speculation, sus- tained by the leaders of trade, fostered by the wealth and fashion of the city ?nd invariably successful. There is ncjtliing of the cheap tinsel or advertising humbug about it. Even the reception of the King, exquisitely rediculous as it may appear to the calmer reflection, is not devoid of reason. The King is an ideal monarch. He represents in liis royal person, whoever he may be, the beau ideal of chivalry and good fellowship. The entire city gives itself up to the intoxication of the hour. All business is prac- tically suspended and all classes join in the general joy- (Aisness. The organizations that control the Mardi Gras festivities are composed of the leading gentlemen of Louisiana. They give their influence and money towards it and their example is followed by every citizen, however liumble his rank or short his purse strings. The city is given up to Momus and his crew, and the poorest has one day of the year to which he can look forward as bringing a rest from labors and a succession of pageants that cost him nothing. Thousands of strangers come to New Or- leans and the country merchants take the occasion for their annual buying trip. The thousands of dollars spent by 66 the Roynl Host and kindred scjcieties are returned to the merchants by the thousands who throng the streets for days before. Early in the morning ahiiost before the sun has gikied the muddy Mississippi the streets are filled with a good natured, chaffing, hustling crowd. Men, women and children in masks and dominos walk about in the utmost good fellowship. " City, country, all Is in gay triumph tempest toss'd, I scarce could press along. The trumpet voice Is lost in loud repeated shouts." It might be suggested that the entire freedom that is indulged in would lead to excesses. Such, howev^er, is not the case. The writer took especial pains to inquire as to the police retiu-ns for the day and he was assured that the percentage of arrests was very slightly increased if at all. He did not see one grossly int(K\icated person in the streets. The processions were all that was claimed for them. With the arrival of the King came a parade that discount- ed our old time Fourth of July parades at home. Up one street and down another, under a very indulgent sun, they marched. But there was some satisfaction in the matter, for cheers and praises were slujwered on them. The bat- talion did do well. The men had got over their nervous- ness and, with white trousers, looked and marched better than they had in many a day. The Colonel commanded the brigade, including the regulars, and Major McAlpin 67 did the honors for the battalion in a very handsome man- ner. Captain J. R. Denman distinguished himself by riding a blooded mare up and down the brigade line, car- rying orders for General Vose, until horse and rider smoked. The Captain was a member of the staff of Brigadier General Plume, of New Jersey, and was one of the guests of the regiment and a volunteer on the Gener- al's staff. He rode well and furiously, and naturally enough came to grief, the mare slipping on the smooth pavements and falling prone. In a moment, however, both were up and Denman at it again, much to the dissatisfaction of a number of surgeons who were hastening from all quarters. Fortunate Denman ! In the procession of Tuesday the battalion took no part whatever and the men were given seats where they coidd best view the pageants. The band was chosen as the "Court band," which immediately preceded His Majesty and divided the honors with him. Tlie proces- sions were two in number. One took place in the day — all day it seemed tcj be moving — and was certainly a mag- nificent affair. The wagons and floats bearing the tableaux were most beautiful and there was nothing in any of them that suggested an advertisement or an immodest thought. When it is said that the very best people not only encour- age these carnival processions, but take part in fheni^ their wonderful success may be the more readily understood. The streets were filled witli thousands of maskers, the windows and balconies gay witli sightseers and everybody 68 smiling and cheerful. No one could spend Mardi Gras in New Orleans without believing in tlie genuiness of the happy disposition of the people. The theme of the day pro- cession was the Arabian Night's Tales and was illustrated by tableaux prepared carefully and at great expense. The costumes were new and pretty and the interpreters intelligent. First came the Herald, then a detachment of police, the court band, Earl Marshal Guards, Grand Vizier, standard bearers, Hindoo priests and the boeuf gras. Then came twenty-three cars containing tableaux in the order named, the prominent figures in the groups being richly attired and the attendants appropriately costumed. The first car contained King Schahriar seated on his throne, followed by the court officers and attendants. The other cars contained the Princess Scheherazade ; Third Voyage of Sinbad ; Fifth Voyage of Sinbad ; Story of Zobeide ; Story of Beker and Gishara ; King of the Black Isles ; Three Calendars ; Second Royal Mendicant ; Third Royal Mendicant ; Story of the Third Calendar ; Barber and His Seven Brothers ; History of Prince Zeyn Alasham ; Nine Diamond Statues ; Forty Thieves ; Baba Abdallah ; En- chanted House ; Aladdin in the Cave ; Aladdin's Banquet ; Abou Hassan; Prince Ahmed and the Lions; Little Hunch- back; Story of the Envious Man. Then followed comical displays of the Independent Order of the Moon and the Phunny Phorty Phellows and proniiscuous maskers on foot and in the vans. The evening procession was perhaps more magnificent 69 than that of the day, probably berausL- of tlic wonderful effect of the well managed lights. It was under the aus- pices of the "Mistick Krewe of Comus" and had for a theme the Myths of the Northland. The story of Sigurd, the Valsung and the fall of the Niblung was magnificently told in pictures of living fire. First came Comus and his " Krewe " attired in blue and silver and following were seventeen tableaux in the order named . The Genius of the Northland; Gods of Scandinavia; The sw^ord in the Branstock; Death of Sigmund; House of Reidmar; The Treasures of the World; At the Waterfall; The Workshop of the Dwarfs; Elfland, The Bower of Gudrun; Grunhield Preparing the Magic Drink; The Voyage of the Niblungs; The Last of the Niblungs; The Hell of the Northland; Valhalla; Ragnarok; The Twilight of the Gods. CHAPTER IX. DINING WITH THE GOVERNOR. 'Tis the middle watch of a summer's night, The earth is dark, but the heavens are bright ; Naught is seen in the vault on high But the moon, and the stars and the cloudless sky. —Drake. I cry you halt, my master ; \o\\ pass not here save at the word (3f command. — Anon. The days went rapidly enough in New Orleans. One pleasure succeeded another so rapidly that it was not un- til after the return home that the men fully appreciated tlie great courtesy with which tlicy had been treated. It was one grand hurly biu'ly of delights — no sooner out 71 of one than in another. The programme was varied. It is quite impossible to begin to give a list of the private courtesies shown individuals. The battalicni arrived on Sunday morning. On that evening the theatres were opened to them, private houses were open to them, noth- ing was closed to them, except the boat where the battal- ion was quartered, and that only to those who got in after midnight and had to make peace with the officer of the guard. In connection with that idea the following bit of C(jnversation between a belated private and the officer (.f the guard is interesting. Ofiicer : '* Why did you overstay your pass? " Private : " Couldn't help it." Officer : " Have to try the guard house with you then I" Private : *' That's pretty rough ! " Officer : (Sharply) *' What's pretty rough ?" Private : " Well now look here. Lieutenant. I come down here to New Orleans as a guest of the citv. Re- ceived by the Mayor and City council. Citizens treat me kindly. Influential citizen — State Senator or assistant Govenor or rich planter or something like that — invites me to his house the first pop. I go. Am introduced to his charming family. Behaved beautifullv. Did the reg- iment credit. Asked to come again. Start for home. Got there a little late. Forget all about the pass. Cor- poral of the guard grabs me. You lock me up. Dine with the Govenor and get locked up because I'm too po- lite to leave before the proper time. That's what I call pretty rough ? " 72 If the men did not dine with the Govenor every day, they were just as kindly treated and probably had just as good dinners. On Monday the King came, and the mag- nificence of that event and the battalion's part in it is told in another chapter. The same afternoon the Royal Host presented the now famous banner. Tuesday was spent in viewing the Mardi Gras processions and the great balls of the evening. On Wednesday the battalion had a dress parade. On Thursday morning the graves of the Con- federate boldiers were saluted and on the same afternoon tlie Battali(jn had a most succesful reception on board the Robert E. Lee. On Friday morning the train was board- ed and the homeward journey begun. It can readily be seen by this programme that the time of the men was fully occupied. The pass svstem for the men was abandoned after the first night and afterwards they went and came pretty much as they pleased except that they were on hand for drills and parades. A number of very amusing inci- dents are related of the first night. One has already been U)\d. It was about iouv (/clock in the morning — four hours after midniglit — that the sentiy at the gangway heard the sound of stealthy footsteps. He had been warned ttHook (Uit for petty theives who might possibly smuggle them- selves on board and despoil the sleeping "Yanks," so he remained very quietly in the shade of a post and watched intently the movements of the mysterious figure on the levee. The figure paused behind a cotton bale and A RECONNOITRE. 73 peered cautiously around the corner. The sentry saw him dimly outlined in the flickering light of the gangway lan- tern, but he did not see the sentry. This evidently as- sured him that the coast was clear, that the sentinels had been withdrawn for some reason, and he boldly started for the gangway. When just about to step on the plank, it occured to him that something was wrong. There was an unnatural quiet about the deck, so lie retreated to the cotton bale again. The sentry stole through the shadows and brought the nodding corporal of the guard to his feet with a fierce hiss-ss-s ! The man behind the cotton bale heard the click of the corporal's rifle and sank down be- hind the bale and out of sight. A few words of explana- tion to the corporal aroused that officer's interest, and he in turn aroused the Sergeant of the guard. Two or three men were placed about the deck at favorite points, and the Sergeant took a seat on a camp chest mentally resolv- ing to capture the bold marauder or perish at his post. Silence had reigned for about twenty minutes when the figure crept quietly out from behind the cotten bale and started towards the bow of the boat evidently intending to climb up the sides. He slipped as he made the attempt and rolled down on the levee. Then he got up and evi- dently intending to end the matter, made straight for the gangway and on tip toe passed to the main deck. With a half suppressed chuckle at his success he was just about ascending the stairway when he was seized by four men who came out of the gloom, and in a moment was on his 74 back, struggle as he might. A large piece of dark paper muslin enveloped his head and body. It was the work of a moment to imwind this and disclose the uniform of the regiment and a well known face. "Well I'md — d" said the Sergeant, supremely disgusted. "So am I " meekly answered the prisoner, who by this time had recovered his breath. " Where is your pass ?" " Haven't got any." " Good night and pleasant dreams " added the Sergeant, as the door closed on the luckless private. It was only about twenty minutes after this that the same sentry heard a quick step approaching the gangway. A private hurried up much out of breath. There was no pause this time. " Halt there " was the order. " Oh don't stop me. I have a very important message lor the officer of the day and must deliver it at once." " Vou can wait a moment I think, until I call the Ser- geant. Please do," said the sentry, bringing his bayonet down to within an inch and a quarter of the soldier's but- tons. The Sergeant came and was su impressed with the man's earnestness that he took him to the Lieutenant ()f the Guard. The latter sent him to the cabin of the officer of the day, who had just turned in. "What do you want" roared that official from the in- side. "There is a man here sir, who says he has a message for you — an important message." > 75 "Who is it from ?" "He says from the Mayor, sir." Of course the officer arose and opened the door, think- ing what on earth the ^laA'or of New Orleans meant by sending a message at that time of night. With a sakite the Sergeant explained the matter and the prisoner hand- ed a note. It read as follows : ST, CHARLES HOTEL, Sunday Night. To THE Officfr of the Day, Seventy-first Regiment. Please excuse Private , of your Regiment, for overstaying his pass. He was with me all evening and I have detained him against his will to assist me in arranging some details of to-morrow's procession. Yours truly, JAMES SHAKESPEARE, Mayor of New Orleans. Unfortunately for the messenger, the officer of the day happened to know that, in the first place, the Mayor had nothing to do with arranging the procession, and in the second place, that His Honor's name was Joseph and not James. So the doors of the dungeon opened again and the much humbugged Sergeant took great pleasure in personally attending to the opening. The man was known afterwards as the "Assistant Mayor." «^ While the guard house is under consideration there might as well be related another incident. The officers of the battalion took with them to New Orleans several colored servants. Commissary Hess had one named Jep, who worked in the Commissary's car while on the road 76 and waited on that officer when in the city. Jep was a great, strapping fellow^ good natured and obliging. It was on Wednesday evening that he permitted himself to become more or less hilarious. About nine o'clock he came on board and went directly to his master's cabin where, of course, he had access at all times. After staying in there for some time he w^ent out on the upper deck and watched the twinkling lights of the city. Then he thought of the dusky belles w^hose eyes twinkled just as brightly. Sinking into a chair he dreamed that, instead of being what he was, he suddenly became transformed into an officer. On his shoulders were the heavy epaulets, at his side the shining sword and from his shako nodded the white plumes of authority. He saw himself among the colored girls — the lion of the evening, petted and feasted and admired above all his comrades. He awoke with a start to find himself chillv in the night air and the same old Jep with the same private's uniform on his back. His dream affected him and, as he went slowly into the cabin, he formed an idea. Of course it took Jep some time to form an idea in its entirety, but with hard work and deter- mination he succeeded. He went into Commissary Hess's cabin and taking out tliat officer's uniform, laid it on the bed. On the breast of the coat sparkled the decoration of the King, the gold and buttons seemed brighter to Jep than they ever had before. Why could he not be an offi- cer ? There were the materials of which officers were made. He had nothing to do but make himself into one, AMBITIOUS "lEP." 77 slip past the sentinels and cry havoc with the hearts of the girls who would recognize at once that he was now in his proper sphere. Laboriously Jep put on the uniform, girded on the sword and looked out. The saloon was de- serted save by a few who nodded Away he went, down the length of the room, past the dozing corporal of the guard and out on the deck. As he turned to go down, his arm struck a projecting piece of wood work and the rattle of the sword attracted the attention of the sentry on the stairs who stood ''at attention" asthe ''officer" went by. Jep turned his head and the whites of his eyes gleamed on the startled soldier who, knowing that the Govenor had been figuratively raising the deuce with other regiments, in- stantly surmised that he had raised his satanic majesty in proper person and commisisoned him in the Seventy-first ! The alarm was given and Jep was secured — not without a struggle however — the uniform stripped from him and he safely stowed in the lockup. There he sat — his hopes blasted, his spirits crushed — head in hands, with the tears insinuating themselves between his fingers, a picture of misery. When Commissary Hess came on board the case was presented to him, and, with his great good nature, he urged Jep's release and forgiveness. CHAPTER X ACROSS THE CHASM. "By the flow of the inland river Whence the fleets of iron have fle 1, Where the blades of green grass quiver, Asleep are the ranks of the dead ; Under the sod and the dew Waiting the judgement day, Love and tears for the blue. Tears and love for the gray." — Finch. No one seemed to know justwho suggested the idea of a salute to the Confederate dead. It was an inspiration born of a desire to do something in return for the kind- nesses heaped upon the party by the living soldiers of the South. The Battalion could do nothing for them, but it could honor their dead with a soldier's salute. It was in 79 harmony, too, with the course of the Seventy-first. Among the first at the initial battle of twenty years ago and the last to leave the field, where its dead Were lying beside those of Louisiana regiments, it was the first to give a soldier's greeting to the soldier dead. When it was announced to the command that they were to march to Greenwood Cemetery and fire a salute, the men were anxious to start at once. There was a unanimous approval of the idea. They felt that it was not an expedition ordered by the officers and obeyed by the men because they were sol- diers. It was an expedition in which every man felt a personal interest— a genuine satisfaction. A firing party of fifty were ordered to prepare. Major E. A. McAlpin and two Captains commanded, while the Colonel, other line officers and the staff accompanied the detachment as lookers on. The New Orleans City Railroad had placed a number of cars drawn by a dummy at the Battalion's disposal and the men wxre taken to the cemetery gates. =^ Greenwood is a peculiar looking cemetery at first glance. The graves are all raised above ground and are really tombs. This is necessary on account of the nature of the soil. Dig down anywhere for three or four feet and wa- ter is found. Obviously, then, the dead must be placed above ground, not in it. The gateway and approaches to the cemetery were crow^ded with ladies and gentlemen. The line was formed and, with the band playing a funeral march, at reverse arms the men went slowly in and around the Confederate monument. A halt was ordered and the ♦Appendix K. So rifles loaded. Amid an impressive silence the officers uncovered, the people crowded about, and Dr. Martyn, the chaplain, stepped forward. "Stoop angels, hither from the skies ! There is no holier spot of ground Than where defeated valor lies, By honoring brothers crowned." Dr. Martyn spoke : "A famous German theologian once said : ' Thank God for sin ! ' Not that there is an3^thing in sin to be thankful for, but it is the occasion for a display of the divine character impossible w^ithout it because unnecessary. Thank God lor the war ! War is an unmixed evil. But God is bringing out of it a better mutual understanding and a truer brotherhood. Twenty years ago the North and South fatally misunderstood each other. The North pictured the South as Bombastes Fm-ioso. The South looked at the North as a Connecticut peddler. The North believed the South w^ouldn't fight. The South thought the North couldn't. The battle fiags were un- furled. The swords were rough ground. The guns were loaded. The thunder of cannon shook the continent. The world stood aghast. The old misconception disap- peared in the smoke of a hundred battle fields. It was mutually discovered that the spirit of '76, of Sumpterand Marion, of Schuyler and Greene, animated their descend- ants. The hostile sections were awed into a wholesome respect for each others' heroism and self-sacrifice. The old Romans placed the gods of the various principalities in- corporated in the empire in their Pantheon — each had Hi his niche. In the Pantheon of American patriotism and honor time shall set Grant and Lee, Jackson and Slier- man ; while the shadowy host, heroic as the English Sidney, chivalric as the French Bayard, who poured