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DOING OVER 
 
 A TOUR 
 EASTWARD AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 January to August 
 1906 
 
 INCLUDING TWENTY ILLUSTRATIONS 
 TAKEN FROM PHOTOGRAPHS 
 
 F, M. HUSCHART 
 
 Cincinnati 
 
 THE ROBERT CLARKE CO. 
 
 J907 
 
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 j DEC 26 3 907 
 
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 ®v F. M. HUSCHART 
 
DOING OVER 
 
 A Tout Eastward Around the World 
 
PREFACE 
 
 Intended originally for my own personal pleasure, 
 but having been urged by friends to put them into 
 book form, these notes are submitted, not as an effort 
 to picture in all the details their life, customs, laws 
 and religions of the peoples in the countries visited 
 upon this tour around the world, but as representing 
 my observations and impressions of things as I saw 
 them, to which is added some information derived 
 from guide books and from individuals. 
 
 In my enthusiasm over the tour I confess to a dis- 
 position to have my friends and others share, if 
 possible, in part, at least, through the reading of this 
 book, the interest I felt while making the trip. Many 
 of the sights seen it will be impossible to picture from 
 the mere reading thereof. This applies especially to 
 India, which, because of the wondrous and weird as 
 well as thrilling stories oft-times told, is by many refer- 
 red to as more or less a land existing only in the 
 mind of some versatile dreamer. I leave to the reader, 
 however, to judge of the merits of my effort to pic- 
 ture my observations. 
 
 F. M. H. 
 

ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 Scene of Our Thrilling Temple Experience, Hampi, 
 India 
 
 FRONTISPIECE 
 
 Hindu Burning Ghat, With a Body Ready for 
 
 Cremation, Bombay Facing Page 28 
 
 Tomb of Kahn Muhammad, Bijapur, India " 37 
 
 Great Mausoleum or " Gol Gumbaz,'^ Bijapur, 
 
 India ** 44 
 
 Tower of Fame, Chitorgarh * ' 53 
 
 Elephant which Carried Us to and from Chitorgarh ' ' 60 
 
 Caravan Going Through the Khyber Pass " 69 
 
 Rural Scene Out From Delhi, India " 72 
 
 Nautch (or Dancing) Girls of India " 73 
 
 Mohammedan Anniversary Celebration, Agra, India " 76 
 
 Native Barber, India * ' 85 
 
 Great Temple to Buddah at Buddh Gaya, India. " 92 
 
 Our Traveling Outfit through India *' 101 
 
 Burmese Girl and Pagoda Shrines, Burma " 108 
 
 Natives Diving for Silver Coins at Colombo " 145 
 
 Donkey Ride at Chin-wang-tao, Northern China. " 160 
 
 On the Pasig River, Manila. " 177 
 
 Baron Von Ketteler Memorial Arch, Pekin " 192 
 
 Temple and Grounds, Shizuoka, Japan " 257 
 
 Street Scene in Miyoshi, Interior of Japan " 272 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 CHAPTER I. PAGE 
 
 The Start Around, Including a Thirteen Days' Voyage 1 
 
 CHAPTER n. 
 A Rough Experience on the Mediterranean and Eleven Days 
 
 More of Voyaging 13 
 
 CHAPTER HI. 
 India and the Beginning of Our Sight-seeing 23 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Some Thrilling Experiences in Out-of-way Places 38 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 We Enjoy the Hospitality of a Rajah — A Visit to Mt. Abu.. 50 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 More Sights in Out-of-way Places, and the Khyber Pass 62 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 Treats Principally of Delhi and Agra, the Show Towns of 
 
 India , 71 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 The Sacred City of Benares, and Buddh Gaya 83 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 Darjeeling and the Himalayan Mountains 91 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 Of Burma, the Burmese and Mandalay 103 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 Back to Southern India, at Madras, and Visit to Trichinopoli 114 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 A Resume of the Trip Through India 125 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 The Island of Ceylon and the Cities of Colombo and Kandy. 137 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 Seven Days Aboard Ship to Java, Thence to Singapore 145 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 Hongkong, Canton and the Cantonese 160 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. PAGE 
 
 Manila and the Philippine Islands 172 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 Back to China and Voyage Through the Yellow Sea and Gulf 
 
 of Pechili Past Port Arthur 185 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 Extreme Northern Part of China, the Great Wall in its Ap- 
 proach to the Sea, and Pekin 192 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 Nanking, the Old Chinese Capital, and the Yangtze-Kiang 
 
 River 205 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 Shanghai and the Chinese 216 
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 Japan, the Japanese, and Our First Experience of Japanese Life 225 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 Through the Interesting Inland Sea to the Sacred Island of 
 
 Miyajima 242 
 
 CHAPTER XXIII. 
 Simple Life of the Japanese as Seen by Rikishas Through the 
 
 Interior 248 
 
 CHAPTER XXIV. 
 Kyoto, the Show Town of Japan 262 
 
 CHAPTER XXV. 
 Miyanoshita, the Popular Summer Resort of Japan 278 
 
 CHAPTER XXVI. 
 The Capital (Tokyo) and the Famous Temple Town of Nikko 287 
 
 CHAPTER XXVII. 
 The Fifty-four Hundred Mile Voyage, Yokahama to San Fran- 
 cisco 302 
 
 CHAPTER XXVIII. 
 The End of the Tour 314 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 A TOUR EASTWARD AROUND THE WORLD 
 JANUARY TO AUGUST, 1906. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 THE START AROUND, INCLUDING A THIRTEEN DAYS' 
 VOYAGE. 
 
 After about ten years of anticipation and longing, 
 I finally left Chicago, eastward bound, on Wednesday, 
 January 3, 1906, and the following Saturday found 
 myself, with tw^o Cincinnati friends as companions, 
 on board the steamship Hamhurg, sailing from New 
 York. 
 
 Alexandria, Egypt, via Gibraltar and Naples, was 
 the objective point of landing and where we were due 
 on January twenty-first, from whence a two days' 
 visit to Cairo was to have been the beginning of our 
 real sight-seeing on the tour around the world. 
 
 The day was a crisp one with broken clouds, occa- 
 sional snow flurries and a temperature about freezing. 
 Considering the time of year, it was an ideal day for 
 the start on a voyage that was to take us into the hot 
 
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DOING OVEE. 
 
 climate of the orient. While the Hamhurg lay at her 
 pier in Hoboken, on the day of departure, passengers 
 began, about noon, to pass up the gangway for the 
 voyage across to Naples. By two o'clock the ship's 
 decks were crowded with more or less excited people 
 made up of those who were going on the voj^age and 
 friends who had come to see them off; of the latter, 
 there appeared as many as of passengers, with here 
 and there a small group in lively or earnest, if not 
 serious, conversation during the fast expiring time 
 still remaining before departure. After the usual 
 warning to those who were not to be passengers and 
 the exchange of hand shakings and bon voyages be- 
 tween parting friends and the final disappearance 
 down the gangway of the last of the visiting parties, 
 the ship 's crew, at about two-forty weighed anchor for 
 the run to Naples, four thousand, one hundred and 
 fifty-seven miles. (Distance, New York to Gibraltar, 
 three thousand, two hundred and seventeen miles.) 
 There was the usual waving of handkerchiefs between 
 friends while the Hamhurg was being towed from her 
 pier and out into the stream. 
 
 No relatives or friends had come to see me off, but 
 letters and telegrams from distant ones had been sent 
 me in care of the Hamhurg. These messages of God 
 speed on a journey that was to take me as many as 
 thirteen thousand miles from loved ones and friends 
 
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DOING OVER. 
 
 had all the cheering effect that could have been wished 
 for by the most solicitous. 
 
 It had been about nine years since my last voyage 
 to a foreign land, in consequence I was thrilled with 
 pleasure at being aboard ship again, — to say noth- 
 ing of my inward enthusiasm over the prospects of a 
 trip for which I had so long hoped — the tour of the 
 world, upon which I was now started. 
 
 As the Hamburg steamed down the bay toward 
 Sandy Hook, seaward bound, in the midst of my leap- 
 ing spirits I became conscious I had been scrutinizing 
 the faces of those on board, to read, if possible, the 
 prospects ahead in new acquaintances. In a very 
 little while the ship's passenger list was scanned, 
 when it developed that of the two hundred and four 
 first cabin passengers one hundred and thirty-three 
 were women and of the latter sixty-five were registered 
 as unmarried. Here was a prospect for those of us 
 unmarried men of whom, so far as was apparent, 
 there were comparatively few. A pleasant surprise 
 had come to me only a few days prior to sailing in the 
 information that in addition to the two Cincinnati 
 companions referred to at beginning of these notes, 
 another friend and his wife were to be fellow passen- 
 gers. The latter two added much to my pleasure of 
 the voyage, as to the wife I could confide my little 
 love affairs, and as reward for the confidence get her 
 
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DOING OVER. 
 
 sympathy, encouragement and advice, all so needful 
 to an inexperienced bachelor. 
 
 As the voyage was but just begun, however, I must 
 not anticipate, but as much as possible refer only to 
 incidents of the trip as they followed. In addition 
 to the first cabin passengers there were on board about 
 one hundred and thirty-five steerage, nearly all Ital- 
 ians returning to sunny Italy for the winter only to 
 return to the United States in the spring. 
 
 Our good ship, four hundred and ninety-eight feet 
 long, sixty feet beam, a depth of thirty-eight feet, 
 and of ten thousand six hundred tons displacement, 
 with a crew of two hundred and sixty-eight officers 
 and men, while slow, was pretty steady, and rode the 
 high seas of the Atlantic with comparatively little 
 rolling or pitching. Notwithstanding, however, the 
 heavy seas experienced proved too much for some of 
 the passengers, as will appear later in these notes. 
 The steamer was fairly comfortable as to appoint- 
 ments and service. I was fortunate in having to my- 
 self a small stateroom, fairly well located, much to 
 my satisfaction. 
 
 At table in the dining room we were placed at one 
 seating eight, including, besides our own party of 
 
 three (for the world's tour), a Mr. O'D and 
 
 daughter, of New York (and standard oil), a Mr. 
 
 and Mrs. W , of Minneapolis, and a Mr. B , 
 
 [4] 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 of Washington, D. C. The latter, for a good part of 
 the voyage to Naples, proved a jovial character, then 
 let down and became very tiresome. The table party 
 as a whole, however, was a congenial one and much 
 envied by other passengers. The first day of the voy- 
 age had passed, then the second and yet another, with 
 no stirring incident to change the now, steadily get- 
 ting acquainted, small community closely housed 
 aboard ship. Some of these new acquaintances proved 
 pleasant as some of them also were interesting. 
 
 The Gulf Stream had been reached and as it was 
 crossed diagonally we were said to be two days going 
 through it. The temperature now had gone up to 
 about sixty-five degrees and on the third day, with 
 threatened rain, a high wind and consequent rolling 
 of the ship (we were going in the trough of the sea), 
 a number of passengers sought the seclusion of their 
 staterooms, no doubt to moralize on the disadvantages 
 of sea voyages. 
 
 On the fourth day occurred an embarrassing inci- 
 dent for the gallant one of our party. The latter had 
 invited some half dozen girls and as many of us men 
 to a lunch to take place about nine o'clock in the 
 evening back in the second cabin. The latter was 
 unoccupied except for a few overflow first-cabin pas- 
 sengers, hence offered a good place for a pleasant little 
 
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DOING OVER. 
 
 affair as above and away from the gaze of other pas- 
 sengers. 
 
 At the appointed time parties of two or more 
 could be seen working their way back toward the sec- 
 ond cabin to do which it was necessary, also, to cross 
 over the spar deck. The ship was now rolling and 
 pitching at a lively rate ; had been in fact all day, and 
 as the deck between the first and second cabins was 
 open it was also exposed to any waves breaking over 
 it. While some of the party were crossing they were 
 drenched by one of those high waves. Once all were 
 in the second cabin saloon, seated about a table and 
 no doubt in pleasant expectancy of what was in 
 store, our host gave the order to serve wine. To the 
 host, who was at my side, the wine must have seemed 
 an interminable time coming ; at any rate he confided 
 to me that he felt signs of an approaching upheaval 
 (seasickness). In the midst of the good cheer prev- 
 alent, when wine had been served, lo! our host had 
 disappeared. A hostless party is an awkward situa- 
 tion, hence, under the circumstances, adjournment was 
 soon suggested and readity complied with, for it de- 
 veloped that some of the guests would soon have fol- 
 lowed the host's lead and disappeared to their respec- 
 tive staterooms. Thus abruptly ended what our genial 
 host had intended to be a pleasant evening affair, and 
 drinking his health, intermingled with expressions 
 
 [6] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 of regret over his lamentable temporary condition, we 
 quickly found our way back to the comforts of the 
 first cabin. 
 
 Going steadily eastward toward the rising sun, 
 each day was cut short twenty to forty minutes, de- 
 pending upon the distance voyaged and the degrees 
 of latitude southward in our course. The days also 
 seemed growing shorter as we became more acquainted 
 with the passengers. The fifth day out brought with 
 it bright sunshine, a much smoother sea, which also 
 brought out of hiding and onto the upper decks those 
 erstwhile absent (seasick) passengers. These latter 
 are really objects of sympathy, as any one knows who 
 has ever had a like experience on shipboard. On this 
 evening, during dinner, that irrepressible gallant of 
 our party (who by this time was recovered from the 
 previous evening's experience) sent to the table of 
 one of the newly made girl acquaintances, whose 
 birthday it was, a birthday cake, with sixteen lighted 
 candles on it. The poor girl entirely unprepared for 
 the surprise was much embarrassed at the merriment 
 occasioned, and yet, no doubt, enjoyed the attention 
 shown her. The diplomatic selection of sixteen can- 
 dles on the part of our irrepressible was like him, for 
 thus the candles, so attractive on a birthday cake, 
 could be added without exposing the young lady's 
 
 [7] 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 age, that precious secret with most girls once they 
 have reached the still tender age of twenty-one. 
 
 The sixth day out, January twelfth, the passengers 
 appeared quite at home with one another, and in 
 consequence life aboard was more or less a continu- 
 ous round of visits between groups of newly made 
 acquaintances. The weather on this day and the next 
 was dismal and rainy, but thanks to the numerous 
 acquaintances one could keep off gloom that must 
 otherwise have resulted, depending, of course, upon 
 the individual. 
 
 St. Michaels, the last of the Azores group of islands, 
 was passed on the morning of the seventh day, and 
 though off shore about two miles, towns and villages, 
 besides cultivated lands, could be pretty well seen 
 through field glasses. 
 
 More rainy weather on the eighth day, and a calam- 
 itous one it proved to several passengers in a poker 
 game experienced with the ship's poker sharks. On 
 the afternoon of the ninth day, about half past two 
 o'clock, land was again sighted; this time Point St. 
 Vincent, the extreme southernmost point of Portugal. 
 In the evening was given the first dance of the voy- 
 age, thus giving newly made acquaintances a further 
 opportunity to become possible lasting friends. The 
 dancing was under more or less difficulty because the 
 
 [8] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 ship continued to do some rolling, but the dancers 
 seemingly enjoyed the sensation none the less. 
 
 It was becoming apparent that that rascally little 
 fellow ''cupid" was hovering about — needless to say 
 that the ship's gossip was making matches regardless 
 of him. As to the latter, I thought for a moment 
 during the voyage the whir of his wings were audible 
 even to me, but it evidently was a false alarm, at least 
 if he had previously made his presence known to me 
 it must have been in derision since there was no repe- 
 tition of the incident. 
 
 At six o'clock on the morning of the tenth day, 
 we anchored in the beautiful harbor of Gibraltar, and 
 at eight o'clock, on a tender, we went ashore. The 
 city with its twenty-two thousand population was very 
 attractive. Its population, aside from six thousand 
 British soldiers, is largely Moorish and Spanish, 
 though the Spanish town proper is several miles from 
 Gibraltar. A strip of about a half mile separates 
 English Gibraltar from Spain and is neutral terri- 
 tory. Gibraltar, built on the side of the rock of Gib- 
 raltar, is largely Moorish, Spanish architecture, with 
 narrow zigzag streets, the principal one being as- 
 phalted. 
 
 Aside from the fact that I had not been in a 
 foreign land for nine years, the Moorish and other 
 oriental peoples looked very picturesque and fascina- 
 
 [9] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 ting to me. The market place was crowded with these 
 interesting people to whom we foreigners seemed of 
 no especial interest — very naturally because foreign- 
 ers are here more or less all the time, Gibraltar being 
 one of the ports where most passing vessels stop if 
 for but a few hours. We spent but three hours in the 
 place, then aboard ship again proceeded on the nine 
 hundred and forty miles voyage to Naples. Through 
 the streets of Gibraltar innumerable donkeys loaded 
 down with charcoal and fruits monopolize much of the 
 space, though I saw a boy loaded down with enough 
 weight to bend a man. On the day of our visit the 
 Congress of Nations was sitting at Algeciras, Spain, 
 over the Moroccan question, and which eventually de- 
 cided in favor of France as a sort of protectorate, as 
 I recall it. At Gibraltar, we had already gone so far 
 east, sun time, that we were about six hours ahead of 
 that in New York. 
 
 On the eleventh day out from New York, beginning 
 about noon of the day before, when we left Gibral- 
 tar, passing between it and the Moroccan coast oppo- 
 site, where is the city of Tangier, we proceeded up 
 the Mediterranean, with a beautiful sunlight, but 
 crisp atmosphere, without any wind except that pro- 
 duced from the motion of the ship. From time to 
 time we could see outlines of the Algerian coast. 
 Throughout the voyage to date but few other vessels 
 
 [10 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 had been seen, but in the Mediterranean numerous 
 craft of various kinds were met with frequently. 
 
 Another evening of dancing, and by this time 
 cupid's darts seemed to be taking effect on several of 
 the younger people, while gossip was at work getting 
 us older bachelors mated. Ship's gossip is really 
 amusing and takes the place of the daily newspapers, 
 so to speak, for without it a sea voyage would lack 
 one of its specially spicy morsels. There is no place 
 on earth, probably, where for short periods small 
 communities are thrown so closely together as on 
 shipboard, and while a ship's acquaintance does not 
 necessarily continue on land, many warm friends are 
 thus made, to say nothing of the numerous love af- 
 fairs. Surrounded for days by sky and water, rest- 
 less water probably, and star-bedecked skies, or moon- 
 lit nights, the air is surcharged with feelings akin to 
 romance, assuming of course that a stranger influence 
 — seasickness — is not at work. 
 
 On the twelfth day out we passed the island of 
 Sardinia in the Mediterranean, with ideal weather 
 above and around us, while sailing on the beautiful 
 blue sea. 
 
 We had averaged about three hundred and fifty 
 knots per day when on the morning of the thirteenth 
 we arrived in the harbor of Naples, having made the 
 run from New York in twelve days, seventeen hours, 
 
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DOING OVER. 
 
 less the six hours difference in time. Thus ended 
 safely a voyage notable for pleasant acquaintance- 
 ships, of two or three known love affairs, followed by 
 a scattering in various directions of the erstwhile ship- 
 board gathering to meet, perhaps, not again, but yet 
 leaving behind trails of pleasant recollections. 
 
 12] 
 
CHAPTER II. 
 
 A ROUGH EXPERIIiNCE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN AND 
 EI.EVEN DAYS MORE OF VOYAGING. 
 
 Our arrival at Naples a day late of the schedule 
 time made it apparent that the trip to Alexandria and 
 Cairo must be abandoned, accordingly we bade fare- 
 well to the Hamburg. Arrangements were soon there- 
 after completed for the voyage from Brindisi, Italy, 
 via the P. & 0. mail steamer for Port Said, where we 
 were to overtake the steamship China, on which we 
 had previously engaged passage for the voyage to 
 Bombay. My first and keenest disappointment of the 
 entire tour thus stared me unsympathetic ally in the 
 face, since I had counted on great interest and pleas- 
 ure in the two days' visit in Cairo, before the start 
 for Port Said. My disappointment found no com- 
 fort in the fact that in the voyage from Brindisi we 
 would pass within one hundred miles of Alexandria. 
 However, no alternative was left us but to abandon 
 the visit to Cairo for some possible future time. Thus 
 the two days we expected to have put in at Cairo were 
 required to be spent in Naples. Because of a contin- 
 ued cold rain, and that the members of our party had 
 previously visited Naples, but little effort was made 
 [13 1 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 at sight-seeing. We here picked up another Cincin- 
 natian, who, as per previous arrangement, was to join 
 us for the tour around the world, thus making four in 
 our party. Therefore, on the night of the twenty- 
 first of January, at ten-twenty o'clock, we boarded 
 the train and started for Brindisi, where we were due 
 on the following morning. The sleeper in which we 
 made the trip was far from the Pullman style of com- 
 fort, in fact was small and very uncomfortable — and 
 in order to permit three of us to recline half way on 
 the seats, one of our party stretched out on the floor. 
 Here our steamer rugs came into service for there was 
 no bedding and what an uncomfortable night it was. 
 In all our round of the world's trip we had no such 
 discomfort in a sleeper, not even in India or Burma. 
 We struck a cold rainy day and other discomforts 
 in Brindisi, and were required to wait until evening 
 before we could go aboard the ship for the fifty-four 
 hour run to Port Said. Brindisi had but one hotel 
 that was supposed to be decent enough for foreign- 
 ers, and this one was just opened the day of our ar- 
 rival after having been closed for some time, hence 
 poorly prepared to care for us. The place was cold 
 and cheerless, and the one meal, lunch, about one 
 o'clock, was apparently gotten together from any old 
 stuff that could be found in the town. Brindisi is 
 an old town and important mainly as a jumping off 
 
 [14] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 place for those travelers who come overland through 
 the continent for India via Port Said and Bombay. 
 Brindisi is at the extreme southern point of the Adri- 
 atic Sea and on the Gulf of Tarahto. Fortunately we 
 were allowed to go aboard the steamer, Isis by name, 
 in time to get dinner. Needless to say the latter was 
 relished after a tough breakfast aboard train en route 
 to Brindisi and the lunch in the latter place as re- 
 ferred to above. We had been asleep on the Isis but 
 a few hours when at midnight anchor was weighed 
 and we left the port only to run immediately into the 
 teeth of a gale and consequent high sea. The former 
 had been blowing all day so that the Isis, which was a 
 small ship about three hundred feet long, was at once 
 tossed about like a bottle. How long I had been asleep 
 I do not know, but very likely not long after we had 
 started, but of a sudden I was awakened a most sea- 
 sick laddie. The storm continued about thirty-six 
 hours, during which time the Isis slowed down from 
 her twenty-two knots speed to eight or ten knots per 
 hour. All the passengers were sick, as were also the 
 stewards and assistant engineers, though the latter 
 must, of course, be on duty, not being disabled as 
 were the passengers. The force of the rolling of the 
 Isis was so fierce that my trunk at times would be 
 under the berth in which I lay, then under the one 
 opposite. I made two heroic efforts to overcome my 
 
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DOING OVER. 
 
 feelings of seasickness, dressed and went on deck, but 
 each time was driven below and I finally capitulated, 
 went to my berth and remained until about noon of 
 the following day. The Isis is named after the god- 
 dess Isis, adored by the Egyptians as benefactress 
 because she is credited with having taught their an- 
 cestors the art of cultivating wheat and barley. What 
 the goddess had against the passengers aboard that 
 she permitted the elements to give us such a distress- 
 ing shaking up I can not imagine, unless she discov- 
 ered there were four bachelors aboard and wished to 
 punish them, or perhaps she may have intended it for 
 several married men aboard who did not have their 
 wives with them. 
 
 As a result of the storm, which was the worst I 
 ever experienced, we arrived at Port Said twelve 
 hours late, having taken about sixty-six instead of 
 fifty-four hours to make the run of nine hundred and 
 thirty-six knots from Brindisi. Our course from the 
 latter port, after passing through the Gulf of Ta- 
 ranto, was through the Ionian Sea, past the Ionian 
 group of islands, thence southeast through the Medi- 
 terranean Sea, past the island of Crete or Candia on 
 which could be seen the snow capped mountains, 
 thence within a hundred miles of Alexandria to Port 
 Said. 
 
 The waters of the Mediterranean were of a beau- 
 [16] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 tiful blue until about opposite Alexandria, close to 
 which the River Nile empties into the Mediterranean, 
 and where the water, up until Port Said was reached, 
 was a light green, the so-called Nile green. The last 
 twenty-four hours of the run was with bright sunshine 
 and a becalmed sea, much to the relief of us poor 
 sailors aboard. It was six o'clock in the evening of 
 January twenty-fourth when Port Said was reached 
 where the steamship China was awaiting us. It was 
 already dark and as the China was to sail as soon as 
 the passengers, mail and baggage could be transferred 
 from the Isis, we were allowed to go ashore for a very 
 short time, about a half hour, but because of the dark- 
 ness little of the city, which is said to have about 
 twenty thousand people, could be seen. We were, 
 however, on Egyptian soil to that extent. 
 
 At half past eight in the evening we started aboard 
 the China for the run of one hundred miles through 
 the Suez Canal, the full length of the Red Sea, which, 
 with two hundred knots of Gulf of Suez, is one 
 thousand three hundred knots long; thence across 
 the Arabian Sea, one thousand six hundred and forty 
 knots to Bombay. While in the harbor of Port Said 
 we saw a Russian man-of-war, one of the few which 
 escaped destruction or capture by the Japanese. A 
 transport of Russian prisoners also passed out return- 
 ing home to Russia. The transport was as full of 
 2 [17 1 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 those poor fellows as a lump of sugar could possibly 
 be of flies. Many were the hardships those soldiers 
 no doubt had to endure, besides the horrors of war- 
 fare. Later, in our visit through Japan, we were told 
 that many of the Russian prisoners had expressed 
 the wish to remain Japanese prisoners in preference 
 to going back home to Eussia. 
 
 Of the one hundred miles of Suez Canal, much of 
 the distance is through lakes, five or six in all, of 
 which Lakes Bahlah, Timsah, Great Bitter and Little 
 Bitter are the principal ones. The building of the 
 canal was started in 1854, finished in 1869 so that 
 vessels could pass through, and in 1872 the tolls re- 
 ceived exceeded expenses. The canal proper, aside 
 from the lakes, is but about two hundred and fifteen 
 feet wide in the straight parts and two hundred and 
 fifty feet in the curves, with a depth of twenty feet. 
 The work of widening the canal was going on at the 
 time of our passage through and where dredges are 
 kept at work all the time to keep the proper depth, 
 which is encroached upon continually by the sand 
 from both sides. Arabia on one side, Africa (Egypt) 
 on the other, both sand deserts with occasional villages 
 and canal stations along the line, at which points some 
 little vegetation and trees are seen. The work along 
 the canal is done by Arabs, Egyptians, and others, and 
 in their peculiar garb looked very odd as well as pic- 
 
 [181 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 turesque. Camels were largely used to carry away the 
 sand which was packed on their backs and taken back 
 from the canal and dumped. In one or two places 
 trams of very small cars were used for the purpose. 
 Because of some obstruction we were delayed at one 
 point about four hours. Ismailia, on the Egyptian 
 side, and once an important city controlled by the 
 French, was passed at noon. Ordinarily the trip 
 through the canal requires about eighteen hours, a 
 six to seven knot speed, the fastest allowed; but be- 
 cause of the above stated delay we were twenty-two 
 and one-half hours. Accordingly, Suez, also on the 
 Egyptian side and located at the southern end of the 
 canal, was reached at six o'clock, hence again dark as 
 at Port Said. Nothing but occasional lights and out- 
 lines of buildings could be seen. Passing Suez, we 
 entered the Gulf of Suez, then through the Red Sea. 
 
 One 's belief in biblical history regarding the passage 
 of the Red Sea by the Jews in the flight of the latter, 
 is given a severe jolt on closer acquaintance with 
 the Red Sea's one thousand one hundred miles of 
 length, one hundred miles width and its depth. 
 
 The lakes along the Suez Canal, prior to the build- 
 ing of the latter, probably connected with the Gulf 
 of Suez at high tide and left them separated on the 
 ebb tide. During the latter stage the Jews may have 
 crossed. At two o'clock in the morning of January 
 [19] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 twenty-sixth, while in the Gulf of Suez, our ship ran 
 down a dhow (an Arab boat) containing eight men. 
 The men were evidently bound for some market, the 
 dhow having been loaded with fruit, but as they evi- 
 dently were saving oil, thus evading the law requir- 
 ing a light on the boat, they paid the penalty in the 
 loss of one of their crew. That all were not drowned 
 seems nothing short of a miracle; as it was, seven of 
 the men were hauled upon our ship and taken to the 
 next stop, Aden. The steamer China is five hundred 
 feet long, fifty-seven feet beam, with nice broad decks 
 and very fair service. The decks are so broad that 
 some of the English passengers play cricket upon 
 them, spreading a net to keep the ball from going 
 overboard. Various deck games were played during 
 the nine day voyage to Bombay, such as bag races, 
 etc., prizes being given to the winners. Dancing also 
 was indulged in by some. Most of the one hundred 
 and fifty passengers were English, including several 
 titled people. The weather, beginning with Port Said, 
 was pretty warm and down the Red Sea the ther- 
 mometer reached about eighty degrees. Besides other 
 acquaintances made aboard was that of a Mr. Prab- 
 
 hashanker D. P , of Bhavnagar, a city and state 
 
 of the Kathiawar District in the Bombay Presidency, 
 presided over by His Highness Rajah Thakur Saheb, 
 
 to whom our newly made friend P is dewan 
 
 [20] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 (prime minister). Another acquaintance made was 
 
 that of a young Indian Prince, the Gaekwar of B 
 
 and heir to what is said to be one of the wealthy 
 principalities of India. Of the above named person- 
 ages more will be said later. Another passenger was 
 
 a Sir John , claimant in a celebrated case before 
 
 the British courts, and a character. Sir John seem- 
 ingly spends much of his time in that thrifty agricul- 
 tural pursuit "sowing wild oats," using whisky and 
 soda as an irrigant, the while industriously distribu- 
 ting his thirty thousand pounds a year income. The 
 quiet of the smoking room was frequently pierced by 
 his squeaky voice calling to the steward for a fresh 
 supply of the aforesaid irrigant. 
 
 On the fourth day out from Port Said we passed, 
 in the Red Sea, the group of twelve small islands 
 known as the twelve apostles. Other islands also 
 were passed during the day. 
 
 On the fifth day out, January twenty-sixth, we 
 anchored in the harbor of Aden, Arabia, the British 
 Gibraltar of the east. The city proper lies back from 
 the coast about eight miles and is said to contain a 
 very interesting population of forty thousand people. 
 Stop was made here to coal, to put off mail, and also 
 the seven poor fellows we had run down in the Gulf 
 of Suez, who were sent ashore to get back to their 
 homes on the Gulf of Suez as best they could. Aden 
 
 [211 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 is the extreme southernmost point of Arabia on the 
 Gulf of Aden, an arm of the Arabian Sea, and about 
 three thousand three hundred miles from Gibraltar, 
 thus making it about six thousand five hundred miles 
 from New York. The coaling of our ship in the Aden 
 harbor was an interesting sight, the work being done 
 by Arabs, mainly, who kept up a chattering noise 
 throughout, very like that of a horde of monkeys. 
 
 Leaving Aden our course lay almost due east for 
 Bombay. Life aboard continued as from the start — 
 daily deck walks, deck games, reading, ocean gazing, 
 conversation, and possibly a nap in the afternoon. 
 Notwithstanding the lack of strenuosity in the daily 
 routine, the days seemed to melt away as my enthusi- 
 asm over the increasing nearness of India continued 
 to grow. The China averaged close to four hundred 
 knots each twenty-four hours throughout the run of 
 eight days and sixteen hours. Port Said to Bombay, 
 pleasant weather having also been ours except for the 
 few hot days on the Red Sea. 
 
 22 
 
CHAPTER III. 
 
 INDIA AND THE BEGINNING OF OUR SIGHT-SEEING. 
 
 February second and Bombay, India, was finally 
 reached after twenty-seven days of more or less con- 
 tinuous going since our departure from New York. 
 With Cairo omitted from our itinerary, India was to 
 be the beginning of our sight-seeing. What was in 
 store for us in that direction in this oft-called dream- 
 land, I could not have previously pictured, regardless 
 of what I had read and heard of it. What we saw and 
 how it was seen will follow. Bombay has no pier that 
 will accommodate any but small boats, hence the 
 China anchored out in the bay about a quarter of a 
 mile. With our adieus to the China and the ship's 
 acquaintances we came ashore at half past two in the 
 afternoon, passed through the customs inspection, 
 where cigars, liquors, firearms, and wearing apparel, 
 were mainly looked for (with a generous allowance 
 for wearing apparel), we soon were registered at the 
 Taj Mahal Hotel. The latter was crowded, but one 
 of our party having slipped out and made a bee line 
 for the hotel while the customs inspection was going 
 on, secured accommodations for us while others were 
 turned away. Travel breeds a certain amount of self- 
 
 [23 1 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 ishness, a sort of justifiable self-interest, as it were, 
 and but for which travel would bring with it even 
 greater hardships and inconveniences which follow 
 at best. The traveler, though not called upon to be 
 boorish, must yet look to his or her own comfort, 
 hence the need for every one doing likewise, or taking 
 what is left. 
 
 In Bombay we were eight thousand one hundred 
 and fifty knots from New York and about ten hours 
 ahead of New York time. So much for having gone 
 steadily toward the rising sun. Standard time had 
 but just been adopted by the railways of India the 
 day previous, February first, the hours reckoned to 
 twenty-four o'clock. The Taj Mahal Hotel, named 
 after the world-famed tomb at Agra, is a very cred- 
 itable one, the foremost in India and built by a Parsee. 
 It fronts on the sea and the Apollo Bunder (an open 
 square) . 
 
 Our first meal (dinner) in Bombay was as guests 
 of the young Indian Prince, heretofore referred to 
 as one of the China's passengers and son of the Prince 
 
 Gaekwar of B , one of India's wealthy Mahara- 
 
 jahs. In addition to the compliment thus paid us, 
 it was in the nature of a fortunate coincidence that 
 our entry into India should be so closely followed by 
 this princely hospitality. Besides our party of four, 
 the Prince also had as guests four of his native 
 
 [241 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 friends, nobles. The dinner was served in the Prince 's 
 suite in the Taj Mahal Hotel and was princely 
 throughout. Three of the nobles were very keen and 
 bright, the Prince himself just returning from col- 
 lege in England was still too young (about twenty- 
 two) to look upon life seriously, though he had a wife 
 and baby awaiting him at home. The dinner was ex- 
 tended over a good deal of time, interspersed with 
 generous flowing of wine, followed by mirth and good 
 fellowship. So free did the Prince command the wine 
 served that he might have been charged with the de- 
 sire to test the staying qualities of his American 
 guests. 
 
 That all India is not happy under present rule is 
 an open secret as developed to us on several occasions 
 throughout the trip. 
 
 After dinner, still as the guests of the Prince, we 
 were shown Bombay by gas, electric and lamp light. 
 On the next evening, February third, our party had 
 the Prince and his friends as guests at dinner, also 
 at the Taj Mahal, and though the dinner hour had 
 been set for seven o'clock His Highness had been de- 
 layed visiting Bombay friends after his long absence 
 in England, hence he kept us waiting until eight, 
 
 and as he was to start at nine for his home in B , 
 
 the dinner, of necessity, was of short duration. 
 
 During the day of the third, the Prince placed an 
 [251 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 automobile at our disposal, and later his party and 
 ours sat for a group photograph. 
 
 The Elephanta caves, on an island six miles from 
 Bombay, is one of the sights of 'interest. These 
 caves cut in solid rock and said to be about one thou- 
 sand one hundred years old, of Hindu origin, once 
 had many figures of the gods cut from solid granite. 
 The whole is now in almost complete ruin and many 
 of the figures adorn museums the world over. The 
 Parsee Tower of Silence, where the Parsee dead are 
 placed to be devoured by vultures, is a gruesome 
 thought. No one is allowed to see inside the tower, 
 hence one can only think of the proceeding as grue- 
 some. A miniature model of the interior of the tower 
 was shown us and indicating two additional walls in- 
 side the outer one. Between the outer and second wall 
 are placed the bodies of the male adults, the bodies 
 of adult females being placed between the next two 
 walls, while the children are placed between the inner 
 walls. Inside, the plan of the building resembles a 
 circular gridiron gradually depressed toward the cen- 
 tre in which is a well five feet in diameter. The bodies, 
 perfectly naked, are placed in the grooves between 
 the walls and in half an hour the flesh is so completely 
 devoured by the numerous vultures that inhabit the 
 adjoining trees that nothing remains but the skeletons. 
 These vultures can be seen in the trees waiting for 
 
 [26] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 the next Parsee. The bones are then left to bleach in 
 the sun and wind until perfectly dry, when they are 
 cast into the well below where they soon crumble into 
 dust. Rain water or other moisture is allowed to es- 
 cape into deep drains at the bottom of the well where 
 the fluid passes through charcoal and becomes disin- 
 fected and inodorous before it passes into the sea, the 
 outlet to the well. The dust in the well is said to ac- 
 cumulate so slowly that in forty years it has risen but 
 five feet. This method of interment originates from 
 the veneration of the Parsees for the elements and 
 their anxiety not to pollute them. Fire is too highly 
 regarded for them to allow it to be polluted by burn- 
 ing the dead. Water is almost equally respected, and 
 so is earth ; hence this singular mode of interment has 
 been devised. Another reason given for the above 
 method is that as rich and poor must meet in death, 
 the bodies of both are disposed of in this manner. 
 The mourners do not enter the Tower of Silence but 
 retire to the prayer house close by. The grounds are 
 tastefully arranged, with beautiful flowers, flowering 
 shrubs and trees of luxuriant foliage. Under the lat- 
 ter, relatives of the deceased may sit in meditation. 
 
 In great contrast with the above method of dis- 
 posing of the dead are the burning ghats of the 
 Hindus. These inspire thoughts of sadness, perhaps, 
 in that the ceremony apparently has little of ceremony 
 
 [27 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 connected with it. Only the male relatives are pres- 
 ent and these move around the funeral pyre a few 
 times and when all is ready are said to recite some 
 prayers, then with torches for the purpose light the 
 fire which is to consume the dead. The funeral pyre 
 consists of logs about the length of a body, piled about 
 three feet high upon which the body is placed, 
 wrapped in a white sheet. On top of the body is 
 piled enough more of wood to cover it, then all is 
 ready for the torch. There are said to be a number 
 of these burning ghats in Bombay and at the one we 
 visited there are said to be from sixty to seventy 
 bodies cremated daily. Four of them were being 
 burned at the time of our visit; one a woman, who 
 had been dead but three hours, was just being placed 
 in position. Later in our visit to Benares we saw 
 more of these burning ghats, and it does seem the 
 whole proceeding is too much like the burning of 
 some unloved thing rather than a human. In addi- 
 tion, it is a heavy drain upon India's limited wood 
 supply. 
 
 Bombay is on an island separated from the main- 
 land by only a narrow stream less than a mile at the 
 widest point. The city is claimed to have more than 
 nine hundred thousand people, largely natives, of 
 course, with the Parsees as the bankers, brokers, finan- 
 ciers and wealthiest citizens. The Parsees, known as 
 
 [281 
 

DOING OVER. 
 
 the fire worshipers, came from Persia, from whence, 
 centuries ago, they had been driven by the Persians. 
 Bombay has many very creditable public buildings, — - 
 the railway station for a long time being claimed the 
 finest in the world. Bombay's specialty in manu- 
 factures is cotton, goods, and it is said to have about 
 a hundred mills turning out that product. The native 
 part of the city swarms with people, everybody seem- 
 ingly moving hither and thither as though living in 
 the narrow streets. Innumerable tenement houses are 
 grouped closely together, which, with the filth of the 
 natives, are plague breeders. It is said that the city 
 is never without the plague, which during the summer 
 months carries off as many as one thousand victims 
 each week. 
 
 Our first taste of India created in me an almost 
 impatient desire to see more of it, as we surely did 
 during the following six weeks. Bombay has, besides 
 many other Christian churches, twenty-eight belong- 
 ing to Roman Catholics, with thirty-five thousand 
 communicants, principally natives. In one of these 
 where I attended service, of all the congregation pres- 
 ent, so far as I could see, there were but four or five 
 foreigners. The sermon, however, was delivered in 
 English, indicating, apparently, that the natives all 
 understood it. The city is full of crows which are 
 seen on all sides, in the streets and trees. Their caw- 
 
 [29 1 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 ing is a never ceasing sound which greets the ears of 
 the newcomer. They are so numerous and tame that 
 they are found in one's path not infrequently. Later 
 I found the same condition, more or less, all through 
 India, Burma and Ceylon. 
 
 The fact that the women do much of the hard 
 work in India was seen in Bombay, where they are 
 employed even in house building, principally to carry 
 mortar and brick, or in excavating they carry out the 
 dirt. However, men and women looked husky and 
 appeared happily unconscious of their poverty which 
 necessitates such drudgery and hard work. 
 
 At the Arabian horse market were seen great num- 
 bers of these animals, though they did not, as a 
 whole, look finer than a stable of high class horses at 
 home. They did not appear to me as I had always 
 pictured them from previous impressions. That they 
 were thoroughbreds, however, and that my expressed 
 comparison above refers to our thoroughbreds, goes 
 without sajdng. 
 
 The market for fruits, vegetables, and various other 
 things was attractive, mainly because of the appar- 
 ent indifference to filth of the shoppers and sellers. 
 Monkeys, various kinds of small animals, and varie- 
 ties of birds, were also on sale. More might well be 
 said of Bombay, but I have referred in the main to 
 those features which I best recall. The weather, which 
 
 [30] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 we were led to believe might be unbearably hot, was 
 as yet very pleasant, with a hot sun during the day, 
 but cool nights. 
 
 On February sixth, one of our party left us at 
 Bombay, continuing his voyage around the world 
 without us. His time for the tour having been lim- 
 ited, he was to see some of the port cities only in his 
 course. 
 
 One of the several necessary requisites for travel 
 in India, besides a guide book, is a guide (there called 
 servant), to act as interpreter, and look after the lug- 
 gage. We secured one of these fellows, a Goa boy 
 named Sam. Sam was about fifty, claimed to have a 
 servant record of about twenty years, and he was, be- 
 sides, a character. The traveler here is required to 
 carry bedding, if he or she expects to sleep on bedding. 
 The latter consists of not less than two razais (quilts), 
 sheets, a pillow, pillow slips, and mosquito netting. 
 In addition a tiffin (lunch) basket, in which we car- 
 ried a small ice cooler, a supply of canned goods, bis- 
 cuits (crackers), and jam, all of which proved handy 
 things to have. Each of our party had, besides his 
 bedding, a suit case and a kind of carry-all bag. Thus 
 with the tiffin basket and Sam 's two pieces, we had in 
 all twelve pieces of luggage. As we did not wish to 
 be hampered with trunks through India, these were 
 shipped down to Colombo, Ceylon, where we expected 
 
 [311 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 to and did overtake them six weeks later. We had 
 also invested in a supply of white duck linen suits 
 besides a topi (so-called helmet hat), the latter nec- 
 essary against the hot sun, which in India is said to 
 be especially dangerous. 
 
 We were now ready to plunge deeper into India 
 to cope with its claimed mysteries and surprises, and 
 its pictured unavoidable jungles of wild beasts and 
 cobras. I expected to experience new sensations and 
 meet with surprises as we proceeded and I was not 
 disappointed throughout those six weeks in India. 
 
 On the afternoon of February sixth, at three 
 o'clock, we boarded a train for a one hundred and 
 nineteen mile run south to Poona, and our first ex- 
 perience on an India railway train was not disappoint- 
 ing, unless agreeably so, for the compartment which 
 our party occupied was not at all bad and the train 
 made an average speed of about thirty-two miles an 
 hour. It was one of the best trains throughout our 
 travels in India and we had few such thereafter, but 
 many much worse ones as to discomfort and slowness 
 of running time. 
 
 Poona, which we reached early in the evening, is 
 a city of one hundred and sixty thousand people, im- 
 portant mainly from a military point of view, a great 
 many soldiers being stationed there, as it is head- 
 quarters of the Bombay army. The place is selected 
 
 [32 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 as a military headquarters because of the tempera- 
 ture and climate^ which are said to be healthful. 
 There is nothing of special interest for the tourist, 
 though the latter, when visiting here, is urged to 
 climb a high hill to see the Hindu temple of Parbati, 
 wife of Shiva, the sun god. The temple is in a fair 
 state of preservation and from a window at one corner 
 of the enclosing wall, the builder, about the year 1750, 
 watched the destruction of his army on the field below. 
 Poona has a very poor and dilapidated hotel. In addi- 
 tion to the doors to the bed rooms there were short 
 screen doors intended to be used on hot nights, letting 
 in the air and whatever crawling thing might come 
 along. My interest in this screen arrangement was 
 centered in the cheap paintings on the outside, for on 
 one of them was painted some California landscape 
 scenery while on another was painted the old Norse- 
 man Tower, or mill relic, at Newport, R. I. An excit- 
 ing time took place at the hotel early in the evening 
 over the disappearance of my topi from the parlor 
 where it had been placed, and from which it had been 
 taken during my absence of only a few minutes. Re- 
 porting my loss to the manager, he expressed great 
 surprise, assuring me at the same time that nothing 
 of the kind had ever happened in his hotel previously. 
 Cutting short his explanations I gave him fifteen min- 
 utes to produce my topi or give me its equivalent in 
 3 r 33 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 money, or I would call in the police. This threat 
 greatly excited our host, who asked me to accompany 
 him up into the city somewhere to find the secretary 
 of the company. Told that I had no interest in look- 
 ing up that individual, the manager disappeared, 
 reappearing shortly with a policeman. Meanwhile, 
 without having asked me regarding the trouble, our 
 servant Sam had been busy scurrying around seem- 
 ingly excited over something and finally appearing 
 upon the scene reported to me he knew who had taken 
 my **sun bonnet." The man was produced but was 
 too intoxicated to know what was expected of him. 
 Sam finally led me to one of the numerous outbuild- 
 ings where, below a lot of rubbish, lay my new topi 
 and the excitement was over. Sam was a Sherlock 
 Holmes or a party to the theft, which is not unlikely 
 as developed from later experience. His object in 
 this instance, if a party to the theft, was probably 
 two-fold — to show us how he would look out for us, 
 or for the reward which he felt sure would come to 
 him in the shape of a rupee for finding the topi. 
 Needless to say the reward was given him. 
 
 The country around Poona, as the result of irri- 
 gation, grows vegetables in abundance, which are sold 
 very cheap. One of our party, immensely fond of 
 onions, was almost overwhelmed with them on paying 
 a woman three annas (six cents) for some. Having 
 
 [34 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 finished sight-seeing here, nothing remained for us 
 now but to kill time as best we could until half past 
 two the next morning, February eighth, when we went 
 aboard train for Bijapur, one hundred and thirty-one 
 miles, via Hotge Junction, where we changed cars, 
 arriving at our destination at half past twelve in the 
 afternoon. That was fast travel, about ten hours, or 
 an average of thirteen miles an hour. We had now 
 experienced our first night on a sleeper in India as 
 well as made use of our bedding for first time, a novel 
 experience. Indian railways have first-, second- and 
 third-class coaches, the former two being in the Euro- 
 pean compartment style. Besides the long seats, there 
 were overhanging upper berths, which are raised out 
 of the way during the day but let down at night, upon 
 which and the seats below our bedding was spread by 
 Sam. On all of our night rides through India the 
 same arrangements prevailed. We found the railway 
 employes throughout India very courteous and at 
 Hotge Junction, where we changed cars for Bijapur 
 and had breakfast at the railway station, the con- 
 ductor held the train while we finished the meal 
 leisurely, as he suggested. 
 
 Bijapur, once a populous Hindu city of nearly a 
 million people, was almost entirely destroyed by the 
 Mohammedans and now has a population of about 
 twenty-five thousand. The ruins of temples and pal- 
 
 [35 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 aces are seen scattered for miles, giving the appear- 
 ance of another Pompeii. The wall, about six miles 
 around, is also badly damaged. The city is in the 
 Dekkan, a plateau district of India, and is said to be 
 the cotton growing territory. There is no hotel in 
 Bijapur, hence we had our first experience in a dak 
 bungalow (or traveler's inn), where the accommoda- 
 tions were very poor. Some rickety old bedsteads, 
 with old thin mattresses upon which we spread our 
 bedding, and as the natives in charge were not pre- 
 pared with eatables, we now made first use of the con- 
 tents of our tiflin basket. The sun was hot and the 
 streets very dusty. Many very attractive buildings, 
 well preserved, mainly Mohammedan mosques, and 
 tombs, are in the* place. The Gol Gumbaz, or Round 
 Dome Mausoleum, has a wonderful dome. The mauso- 
 leum is built on a platform six hundred feet square 
 and two feet high. In front is a great gateway, 
 ninety-four by eighty-eight feet, with a music gallery 
 (Nakkar Khana) above. The building is square, one 
 Iiundred and ninety-six feet exterior, and at each 
 corner is a tower seven stories high. In the centre is 
 the great dome, one hundred and twenty-four feet in 
 diameter, and compares in extent with that of St. 
 Peter's in Rome which is one hundred and thirty- 
 nine feet. The surface of the building, like most of 
 them in Bijapur, is covered with plaster. The great 
 
 [36] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 hall, one hundred and thirty-five feet square, over 
 which the dome is raised, is said to be the largest 
 domed space in the world. From the corner towers 
 there is an entrance to a broad gallery away up in 
 the dome which is so wide that a carriage might pass 
 around it. The slightest noise or sound in any part 
 of the gallery can be distinctly heard on the opposite 
 side. Internally the dome is one hundred and seventy- 
 five feet high. Other beautiful buildings are the 
 mosque and tomb, known as the Two Sisters, the 
 Ibrahim Rosa, tomb of Ibrahim II., Adil Sha, his 
 Queen, Taj Sultana and four other members of his 
 family, said to be of Persian architecture, is one of 
 .the most beautiful in Bijapur. There are many more 
 attractive mosques and tombs in the city. The city 
 has a generous and well regulated water supply de- 
 rived from springs three and five miles distant. One 
 of the gates to the city, called the Shapur Gate, is 
 full of immense spikes protruding on the outside and 
 intended as protection against elephants that used to 
 be utilized for battering gates when cities were being 
 attacked by outside foes. The visit to Bijapur was 
 full of interest, though accompanied by discomforts. 
 We were early experiencing the disadvantages and 
 hardships of travel in India, many of which were still 
 in store for us, especially when away from the regu- 
 larly traveled routes. 
 
 [37] 
 
CHAPTER IV. 
 
 SOME TflRILLING EXPERIENCES IN OUT OF WAY PLACES. 
 
 The visit in Bijapur ended, we boarded train at 
 noon on February ninth for Hampi via Hospit, one 
 hundred and sixty-eight miles further south, arriving 
 at the latter place at midnight. More or less, all 
 through the six weeks in India, we arrived at or de- 
 parted from places at the uncanny hours between 
 midnight and two or three o'clock in the morning. 
 Outside the few larger cities, there are few or no 
 hotels in India, but the British government, whose 
 subjects are traveling the country all the time, has 
 seen to it that there is a place for the traveler to sleep 
 under roof. In consequence, the railway stations have 
 a few cots and in addition most of the smaller cities 
 have a bungalow with a few cots or beddingless beds 
 in charge of a native. Should more travelers com'e 
 along than can be accommodated, those coming late 
 may still sleep under a roof by spreading their bed- 
 ding upon the floor. At Hospit, where we were to put 
 up for the night (Hampi, the objective point of this 
 visit, being nine miles away from the railway station), 
 we promptly looked up the station master whom we 
 had previously telegraphed for sleeping quarters in 
 
 [38] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 the station or bungalow, as the case might be. Ap- 
 proaching what we took to be the station master and 
 inquiring as to our sleeping quarters we were told 
 to go to the bungalow ; asking as to where the bunga- 
 low was he said about a mile out from the station, to 
 reach which, we could take tongas (a native vehicle 
 which one must see to appreciate). It was past mid- 
 night, but there seemed no alternative, hence five 
 tongas were engaged, one each for our party, includ- 
 ing the servant and one for the luggage. A tonga is 
 not long enough for one to lie down, besides the driver 
 sits in the front end ; then the bamboo top is not high 
 enough to permit sitting up comfortably, and as we 
 were required to sit or recline on the bare floor or bed 
 (except for a little straw) of this remarkable vehicle, 
 here was a prospect. A full moon and the clearest of 
 skies was the one comforting feature as our caravan 
 started from the station. The tongas^ being drawn by 
 great rawboned bullocks, it is needless to say that 
 distance was not conquered with any great speed, in 
 fact progress was slow, very slow. Scattered along 
 the road as we were, conversation was out of the ques- 
 tion and unable to talk Hindustani we could expect 
 no entertainment from the driver. Thus we moved 
 along, just moved, my own thoughts alternately back 
 home, then absorbed in the surroundings. We not 
 only were in a strange land, but in a short while after 
 
 [39] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 the start were beyond the town limits going further 
 into the rural districts, and where, after going thusly 
 for what seemed the longest time, and when each 
 seemed to feel we had gone beyond the mile claimed as 
 the distance to the bungalow, we began signaling one 
 another and the caravan was brought to a halt. Sam 
 (our servant) was commanded to ask the drivers how 
 much farther it was to the bungalow, to which answer 
 came that the bungalow was still further out. That 
 was information; though we had gone beyond a mile 
 without doubt, nothing seemed left us but to get 
 aboard again and continue the journey. Thus we con- 
 tinued, the bullocks plodding along in the same slow 
 steady gait, the quiet of the surroundings beginning 
 to produce feelings not in keeping with the bright 
 moonlit night. Due to the dry, clear atmosphere the 
 moon in India seems closer to the earth than it ever 
 appeared to me elsewhere, and seemingly was just 
 beyond reach, so to speak. After we had again con- 
 tinued thusly for what seemed an interminable time, 
 there was again that simultaneous signaling from 
 each of our party and another halt was made for a 
 second consultation. We had but just begun to ques- 
 tion the drivers, through Sam, as to where we were 
 being taken when two native guards came up, and 
 demanded to know our destination and business. Told 
 of our purpose to reach a bungalow somewhere this 
 
 [40] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 side of the moon, we were commanded to at once turn 
 back and return to the station. The further infor- 
 mation was volunteered that we had already come 
 beyond the danger line, that we were liable at any mo- 
 ment to have been waylaid by highwaymen. With 
 this information in a strange land, wild surroundings 
 and unarmed, we stood not upon our dignity but 
 promptly turned about face, retraced our steps toward 
 the town and railway station. It might be added that 
 the retreat was not only a willing one but orderly as 
 well. It was past two o 'clock in the morning when we 
 arrived at the station, where another search was 
 promptly made for the station master. We had thus 
 been about two hours going out and returning from 
 the above moonlight drive. Locating the station mas- 
 ter, the real one this time, it developed he had in- 
 tended all the time we should sleep in the railway sta- 
 tion, and that he had expected us when the train ar- 
 rived. Who the party was who sent us out upon our 
 arrival, on the reckless journey, we could not learn, 
 except that he was not the station master. That the 
 party was aware of our coming was apparent from 
 his actions when we left the train and from the fact 
 of the tongas being in waiting at that hour (mid- 
 night) of night. What the purpose of the fellow was 
 can only be guessed and what might have happened 
 had the native guards not turned us back may also 
 
 [41] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 come within the scope of guessing. As it was, Sam 
 soon had our bedding covered over the only three cots 
 in the station and three very tired and sleepy travelers 
 were soon tightly clasped in the embrace of Morpheus. 
 Not many hours were left us for sleep on this night, 
 however, for with the sunrise about six o'clock we 
 were again up, aiming at an early breakfast and start 
 for the nine miles journey to Hampi. For the latter 
 tongas were again brought into service, only they were 
 now drawn by very lean ponies instead of bullocks. 
 Hospit being in the plague stricken district, we were 
 required before coming here to procure passports, 
 which, having been shown the proper party, we pro- 
 ceeded toward Hampi. The sun and air were already 
 hot, the roads dusty and the tongas even more uncom- 
 fortable than on the night before, because of the 
 weather conditions. The roadway ran along the edge 
 of a jungle, with here and there a small village or 
 peasant's hut. At about ten o'clock we reached the 
 outskirts of Hampi, where we alighted, glad of the 
 opportunity. 
 
 Hampi, built between rocky hills, was once a verj'' 
 populous Hindu city, containing about nine hundred 
 and ninety temples, with palaces proportionately. Of 
 its former glory, there now remains intact but a sin- 
 gle building, a temple, the remainder of the city hav- 
 ing been destroyed by the Mohammedans in the six- 
 
 [42 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 teenth century. In addition to the one temple, there 
 are several gods cut from solid granite, the one Nar- 
 singh Avatar, a colossal lion-headed image, with enor- 
 mous projecting eyes and huge mouth; a carving of 
 the Nesh Nag (a combination of seven cobras) forms 
 the canopy of the idol, all in one piece of granite 
 about twenty-two feet high. Another idol, that of 
 Ganesh (a figure with an elephant's head), the god 
 of intelligence, is eighteen feet high. Both of the 
 above images show signs of a Mohammedan effort at 
 destruction but are not greatly injured, the images 
 apparently having been too massive to be much dam- 
 aged. What is said to be the largest juggernaut 
 in India, also, is seen here. We finally reached 
 the great temple of Hampi, above referred to, and 
 which is sacred to the god Shiva. The gopura, at 
 the north entrance, is gigantic, being one hundred 
 and sixty-five feet high, built up eleven stories and 
 accessible, above which are said to be thirty feet of 
 solid masonry, the whole being very picturesque and 
 supposed to be the largest gopura in India. A go- 
 pura is a gateway or entrance to the outer enclosure 
 to Hindu temples, the latter being located inside a 
 second or inner enclosure. The quadrangle or 
 space between the first and second enclosures of 
 the Hampi temple is two hundred and eight by one 
 hundred and thirty-four feet. In this space were a 
 
 [43] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 number of monkeys, which, though tame perhaps, 
 shied at the approach of our party. None other than 
 Brahmans (the highest cast Hindu) are allowed inside 
 the second enclosure where the temple is, because 
 regarded a desecration by the Brahmans. One of our 
 party, over-anxious to photograph the temple, went a 
 few paces only inside the enclosure against the re- 
 monstrances of those inside. The result was that 
 for a time it looked as though we were going to have 
 trouble on our hands, for while the persistent kodakist 
 was busy putting a new cartridge of film into his 
 kodak, and the rest of us were looking on, several of 
 the Hindus had closed the immense gate through 
 which we had come into the quadrangle, while another 
 was hurrying toward the gate with an immense lock, 
 the intention being, apparently, to lock us in. Fortu- 
 nately one of our party happened to discover what was 
 going on and in quick succession we were all running 
 for the gate, and reaching it before the man with the 
 lock had arrived. With vigorous use of elbows the 
 first two of our party to arrive had forced the Brah- 
 mans from the gate and by main force opened it suf- 
 ficiently to let us pass out. A howl went up from the 
 Brahmans, but we were out and lost no time in getting 
 away. But for the fact that there were only about 
 half a dozen of the Hindus, it might have gone hard 
 with us, a young boy of about sixteen seeming to be 
 
 r441 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 the most worked up of the group. Having now seen 
 the principal attractions of the place, but few other 
 buildings having any semblance of shape left them, 
 we made for the place where we had left the tongas. 
 When we had succeeded in getting the drivers (who 
 seemed in an ugly mood for some reason) to hitch the 
 ponies to the tongas, we started for the dak bungalow 
 two miles away, where we opened the tiffin basket to 
 feast on our supply of canned provisions. After we 
 had finished and while resting before making start 
 back for Hospit in the excessive heat of the day, we 
 were startled by the sound of weird tom-tom music 
 up the road. Looking in that direction we could see 
 through the trees a procession of natives coming down. 
 What it all meant we could not, of course, define, but 
 when the procession finally turned into the grounds of 
 the bungalow thoughts of the incident at the temple 
 crept into my vision. Slowly they came toward the 
 bungalow and soon we could see in the procession, on 
 top of a wagon, what looked like some wild beast. The 
 weird strains of the never ceasing tom-toms grew 
 louder as the crowd drew nearer. Of a sudden it 
 developed that the wild beast on the wagon was a 
 leopard, and finally, when all had come close to where 
 we were, the leopard was seen to be a dead one, the 
 natives having propped it up in a standing posture to 
 give it the appearance of being alive. We were told 
 
 [45] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 the animal had been killed early that morning on 
 the edge of a jungle, not a great distance away. The 
 native who had killed the beast was the hero of the 
 occasion, and with an old gun of some kind over his 
 shoulder, was, with apparent pride and satisfaction, 
 pointed out as the slayer. All thought of danger to 
 us, if any such thought had been serious, was soon 
 dispelled, especially when it developed that the pro- 
 cession had come to the bungalow with the leopard 
 hoping the foreigners would give a liberal baksheesh 
 (tip) for a sight of the beast. The expected donation 
 being given, the procession proceeded on its way, the 
 tom-toming beginning afresh and could be heard until 
 overcome by distance. 
 
 Soon thereafter our party started back for Hos- 
 pit, where we arrived at five o'clock, tired, dusty and 
 thirsty, as well as hungry. We must now wait until 
 after midnight for the next train, and as the place 
 had nothing of especial interest to recommend it, the 
 interval was dull in the extreme. 
 
 But few tourists ever visit this out of the way 
 place of interest because few would care to make the 
 hard trip necessary and because few people know of 
 the place. Of those resident foreigners and natives to 
 whom we had spoken of our visit to Hampi not one 
 had ever heard of it. This was not so strange after 
 all, perhaps, because the place is not upon any map 
 
 [46] 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 of India that I saw, and then, too, it is so far from the 
 beaten paths of travel it probably is seldom or never 
 referred to. "We are indebted to the postmaster- 
 general of India for our knowledge of Hampi. To 
 the same gentleman we are also indebted for informa- 
 tion regarding most of the numerous out of the way 
 places which we visited in India. The postmaster- 
 general had been a fellow passenger on board the 
 China to Bombay, to which place and India he was 
 returning from a visit home (England). 
 
 Britain pensions, after twenty-five years of serv- 
 ice, its employes of the civil service. These are scat- 
 tered all through India, some of them in out of the 
 way places, far from cities, and where they are sur- 
 rounded by nothing but the natives, poverty and lone- 
 liness. Also on board the China was a young English- 
 man bound for his post in the interior, where he in- 
 vited our party to pay him a visit. He, too, was re- 
 turning after a short visit home to England. This 
 young man had been in the service only five years, 
 but was already looking forward to the expiration of 
 his twenty-five years' service and the pension. An- 
 other Englishman was returning to India who had but 
 five years more of service between him and the looked- 
 forward-to pension. His was a pathetic case, for as 
 he had been separated from his wife and children he 
 had gone home after a five years' absence to visit 
 
 [471 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 them only to learn upon arriving there that his wife 
 had died while he was on his way home. Few of the 
 married men in the India service have their families 
 with them after a few years of marriage, since the cli- 
 mate of India is unfit for either the wife or the chil- 
 dren. The family in consequence meet but once in 
 three or four or five years, depending upon the man 's 
 position in the service and ability to get home. Can 
 any one wonder that the poor fellows look forward 
 to the pension period? And how must the wife and 
 children look forward to the time? To the credit of 
 England be it said, that the pay of those in the India 
 service is said to be higher than is paid government 
 officials by any other country. 
 
 Hospit has an exclusive native population num- 
 bering about thirty-five thousand and is the nearest 
 railway point to Hampi. Thus ended, what was, in 
 a way, one of the most eventful visits of our tour of 
 the world. Hospit is four hundred and thirty miles 
 southeast of Bombay, but to return to the latter place 
 by the quickest route we boarded train after midnight 
 for a point further southeast, called Gundakel, where 
 we changed to the Madras mail train for the thirty-six 
 hours' run of five hundred and eighteen miles back 
 to Bombay. The trip was without incident and we 
 began to get more or less used to Indian railway 
 travel. Meals along the route were taken at railway 
 
 [48 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 stations and too much time was not allowed, so that 
 our meals were more like lunch counter feeds. For 
 companions in our compartment, were two English- 
 men who were hard to draw into conversation. 
 
 Hampi had been well worth the tiresome trip, if 
 for no other reason than for the several more or less 
 thrilling experiences above narrated. Except for its 
 manner of destruction the place, in a way, is indeed 
 another Pompeii. 
 
 49 
 
CHAPTER V. 
 
 WE ENJOY THE HOSPITALITY OF A RAJAH. — A VISIT TO 
 MT. ABU. 
 
 The twelfth of February and back again in Bom- 
 bay, where final arrangements were made for the trip 
 north. On the evening of the thirteenth, at half -past 
 nine, we left Bombay for Bhavnagar via Broach, one 
 hundred and seventeen miles north. The latter city, 
 on the Gulf of Cambay, was reached at four o'clock 
 
 next morning, where we were met by Mr. B , Port 
 
 Officer of Bhavnagar and who was in charge of the 
 state barge of His Highness the Rajah Thakur Saheb, 
 whose guests, and especially that of his dewan, P. D. 
 
 P , we were to be — the latter heretofore referred 
 
 to as having been met on the voyage, from Brindisi 
 
 to Port Said and Bombay. Mr. P , a high class 
 
 Brahman, a scholar and gentleman, had urged the 
 acceptance of his invitation to visit his home city, 
 Bhavnagar. On board the state barge, we started at 
 five o'clock in the morning on the one hundred and 
 fifteen mile trip across the Gulf of Cambay, our meals 
 being prepared upon a stove on the open deck of the 
 barge. The Gulf of Cambay is a very shallow, as 
 
 [501 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 well as muddy, body of water, an arm of the Arabian 
 Sea. 
 
 We arrived at Bhavnagar early in the afternoon, 
 where we were met at the dock by Mr. P 's secre- 
 tary, and in one of the state carriages driven to a 
 large bungalow, which was turned over to us, with 
 a full quota of servants in attendance. 
 
 The city has no hotel but several bungalows belong- 
 ing to the Eajah. Our intended visit here of one day 
 was extended into four by our friend the dewan 
 (prime minister). Everything of supposed interest 
 in the city, which has fifty thousand people, was 
 shown us, besides every attention possible. More than 
 ample time was taken and the state carriage was sent 
 to the bungalow regularly at about ten o'clock in the 
 morning and three o'clock in the afternoon for sev- 
 eral hours' visit to the city's attractions. The latter 
 might well have been seen in a day, but P evi- 
 dently intended prolonging our visit. 
 
 The most interesting of the sights seen were the 
 schools, in which about three thousand pupils were 
 registered, including five hundred and thirty girls. 
 The education of the latter is not generally much 
 troubled with in India. For our benefit a drill and 
 May pole exercise and native dance was given by the 
 girl pupils. Our friend, the dewan, is a liberal and 
 progressive Brahman, hence the number of girl pupils 
 
 [511 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 at school. We were shown besides the hospitals (where 
 free treatment and medicines were given), the parks, 
 the library, cotton mill and also taken out where an 
 effort was being made to bore for water. The latter 
 work was in charge of a Japanese, the boring being 
 done in a very primitive manner. A large wheel, used 
 to pull up the drills, was worked by men in the same 
 manner, more or less, as a tread mill might be op- 
 erated, except that the men walked around on the 
 inside of the wheel. As a result of our visit to the 
 well boring, I put the dewan in communication with 
 a friend in America for possible suggestions as to how 
 the boring might be improved upon. On the fourth 
 and last day of our visit, we were presented to His 
 Highness the Rajah, who had been away panther 
 hunting of which he is very fond. He was a plain 
 personage and not much of a talker. He received us 
 at the door of his palace and ushered us into the re- 
 ception room; our stay, however, was of short dura- 
 tion. 
 
 In recognition of the dewan' s hospitality, we had, 
 before leaving Bombay, purchased for his little son, a 
 lad of about ten years, a bracelet watch and which 
 we presented the little fellow, at the same time hand- 
 ing his f ather^ the following letter : 
 
 "To Mr. P. D. P , Bhavnagar. Dear Mr. 
 
 P : As an expression of appreciation for the gen- 
 
 [52] 
 
% n* 
 
 15; 
 
 0> 
 
 $4 
 
 '% If 
 
 
 :«* f.!-- . .A^^A 
 
 TOWER OF FAME, CHITORGARH, 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 erous entertainment and hospitality extended us while 
 your guests in Bhavnagar, we beg that you will ac- 
 cept, for your son, this bracelet watch, which how- 
 ever, it is needless to say, but faintly conveys our feel- 
 ings for the pleasure and privilege we have enjoyed 
 during our visit to your very interesting city. 
 
 "It was our desire to have left with your son some 
 token purely American and more nearly adequate 
 to the compliment paid us in your invitation to visit 
 your city. Unable, however, to find something more 
 fitting we do yet feel assured that what we have se- 
 lected will be cherished not for its slight intrinsic 
 value, but because of the sentiment it is intended to 
 convey. 
 
 ''Finally, then, we beg you will accept this expres- 
 sion of assurance that our visit to Bhavnagar has 
 added greatly to the pleasure which we anticipate in 
 this visit through your country, and believe us, 
 "Yours very sincerely, 
 
 "At Panmadi Bungalow, 
 
 "Bhavnagar, February 17, 1906." 
 An amusing incident of our visit to Bhavnagar 
 occurred during one of our strolls through the streets. 
 
 [531 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 In the center of one of the latter (a broad one) down 
 about thirty feet below the street level and surrounded 
 by a wall about four feet high above the street, is a 
 pool of water where the women gather to wash clothes. 
 These women, or many of them, were all but naked, 
 the wall above the tank being built no doubt to shield 
 them from the easy scrutiny of passersby. Our party 
 came strolling down the street and curious to know 
 what was inside the stone wall, we looked over it down 
 at the busy women. One of the latter happening to 
 see us gave the signal when there was a hurried gath- 
 ering of the light drapery (which had been turned 
 down around their loins to make work easier) and 
 pulled up to cover their naked breasts. It was amus- 
 ing until a native policeman came along and advised 
 us it was forbidden to look at the washerwomen at 
 work. 
 
 On the evening of the fourth day we boarded train 
 (still as guests of the Rajah, for about seventy-five 
 miles of local road in which His Highness is inter- 
 ested and at the end of which we struck the main 
 
 line) with our friend, Mr. P , and his secretary to 
 
 see us off. They had brought with them wreaths of 
 flowers which they placed over our shoulders, the 
 wreath hanging well down before us. This final at- 
 tention was to be considered a further compliment, 
 though unfortunately not as fully understood by our 
 
 [54] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 party at the time as would have been later in our trip 
 through India. 
 
 Our destination when leaving Bhavnagar on the 
 evening of February seventeenth was Ahmadabad, a 
 city of one hundred and eighty-six thousand people 
 and three hundred and ten miles north of Bombay. 
 We airived at Ahmadabad on the morning of the 
 eighteeath, seventeen hours to come about one hun- 
 dred ani seventy-five miles, during which we changed 
 cars at "^iramgam early in the morning and had time 
 enough :o breakfast. While we came from Bhavna- 
 gar vith pleasantest recollections of the visit, we at 
 the sime time felt we had been detained longer than 
 necessiry with so much before us to see. In conse- 
 quenc(, we were now impatient to go ahead and which 
 from tiis forward was supposed to be progress with- 
 out inerruption, except the necessary time to thor- 
 oughlysee interesting objects. 
 
 Ahnadabad, a city of beautiful buildings, ranking 
 next toDelhi and Agra for beauty and extent of its 
 archite(tural renown, is located on the Sabarmati 
 River aid surrounded by the remains of an old wall, 
 the lattr pierced with twelve gateways. The city was 
 once th greatest in western India and said to have 
 been, ii the sixteenth century, the handsomest in 
 Hindustn, perhaps in the world, having been founded 
 in 1411 >y Sultan Ahmad I. It is said to have passed 
 [55] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 through two periods of greatness, two of decay and 
 one of revival, and is now a thrifty city, supplied with 
 filtered water obtained from wells sunk in the bed of 
 the river. The architecture of its buildings is a com- 
 bination of Hindu and Mohammedan; many oi the 
 houses have fronts beautifully carved in wood, i spe- 
 cialty of the place. The Jama Masjid (prhcipal 
 mosque) , though not remarkable for size, is said to be 
 one of the most beautiful in the east. The ro3f, sup- 
 ported by two hundred and sixty columns, has fifteen 
 cupolas with galleries around the three in frouu. Other 
 attractive buildings are the Tomb of Ahmad Shah, 
 the Tombs of his Queens, Rani Seprees' Mosqu« and 
 Tomb and many others besides Sidi Saids M(Sque; 
 the latter has two window screens of stone, witl deli- 
 cate tracery of trees and branches beautifully wDUght. 
 Commercially, the city is noted for its manulicture 
 of jewelry, brass, copper, black wood carving stone 
 masonry, lacquer workers, ivory carvers, and cirpets. 
 One of the most attractive and interesting featires of 
 the city is the Baolis or wells, one of whicJ has a 
 domed portico supported by twelve pillars, whph give 
 entrance to three tiers of finely constructed ^lleries 
 below ground, and lead to an octagonal wej about 
 forty feet below the surface of the street. Maole and 
 a dull reddish gray stone is used in the buil(^ngs of 
 Ahmadabad. We spent a busy day here i sight- 
 
 [56] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 seeing, with a bright but very hot sun to add to the 
 attractiveness of the views. The city swarms with 
 dirty people and naked children. In the evening we 
 were aboard train for the one hundred and fifteen 
 mile run to Abu Koad station, a village from which 
 we were to visit Mt. Abu, sixteen miles away and 
 located up in the mountains. We arrived at Abu Eoad 
 at eleven o'clock and slept in the railway station, our 
 bedding being spread upon the cots as on previous 
 occasions. The next morning, in a four seated native 
 vehicle, we started for Mt. Abu and from which point 
 we had our first ride in jinrikishas, a distance of two 
 miles to the two Dilwarra Temples which we had 
 come to see. Mount Abu is headquarters of the Raj- 
 putana administration, notwithstanding its situation 
 away from the railway, and is, also, a sanatorium for 
 European (British) troops as well as a hot weather 
 resort in the summer season. Besides several hotels, 
 there are a number of private houses built on the 
 margin of the Gem Lake, an artificial body of water, 
 studded with islands and overhung by curious rock, 
 one of the latter looking like an enormous toad about 
 to spring into the water. A pass was necessary to 
 visit the Dilwarra Temples, one of which was built 
 about 1032 A. D., the other early in the thirteenth 
 century; the latter, the most beautiful of the two, is 
 said to have taken fourteen years to build and to have 
 
 [57 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 cost about eighteen million rupees ($6,000,000), be- 
 sides a large sum to level the hill upon which it 
 stands. The ceilings of marble for minute delicacy 
 of carving and beauty of detail are said to be almost 
 unrivalled even in this land of patient and lavish 
 labor. Nowhere in India did I see anything to rival 
 this particular kind of decoration. The entire temple 
 of marble had many cells, the latter lighted only 
 through the marble screened doors and contained 
 cross-legged figures of the Saint Parswanatha, to 
 whom the temple is dedicated ; each cell terminates up- 
 ward in a sikra or pyramidal spire-like roof, common 
 to all Hindu and Jaen temples of the age in northern 
 India. A portico of forty-eight free standing pillars 
 is surrounded by a double colonnade of smaller pil- 
 lars forming porticos to a range of fifty-five cells and 
 enclose it on all sides as in Buddhist niharas (Bud- 
 dhist idol house and monastery). In this case, how- 
 ever, each cell, instead of being the residence of a 
 monk, is occupied by one of the cross-legged images of 
 Parswanatha, all just alike. Over the door of each 
 cell, or on its jams, are sculptured scenes from the 
 saint's life. In two of the cells, we counted fifteen 
 marble elephants of the size of that animal when very 
 young. The amount of marble carvings and sculp- 
 tures here was too amazing for me to grasp intelli- 
 gently enough for a more detailed description than 
 
 [58] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 above given. The ride back to Abu Road station in 
 the afternoon was hot but winding around through 
 the hills made it very interesting besides giving time 
 to reflect on the beauties of the Dilwarra Temples. 
 As there would be no train out of Abu Road until 
 eleven o'clock, and there was nothing to see at the 
 station, we simply had to kill the interval of time as 
 best we could. While waiting for the train and close 
 to the station here we saw a primitive arrangement for 
 making sugar from sugar cane. The cane was fed 
 to a revolving press operated by bullocks going around 
 in a circle. Several large iron kettles were close by 
 to which the sap thus pressed from the cane was taken 
 and boiled down. As fuel the pressed cane was util- 
 ized. Though already late at night the work went 
 steadily on, the natives seeming too absorbed in their 
 work to pay any attention to the presence of three 
 curious travelers. Though quite a number of work- 
 men were thus engaged there was no noise, not even 
 conversation so far as was apparent. Every man and 
 boy was bent on his work, and that only, seemingly. 
 In other places in India we saw oil being pressed out 
 of seeds of some kind in a press even more primitive 
 than the above sugar press. The introduction of mod- 
 ern appliances is barred out of India by the expres- 
 sion of the natives that ''it isn't the custom." The 
 fact that the primitive way was good enough for their 
 
 [591 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 ancestors makes everything, no matter how hard, 
 good enough for the present generation. Modern ap- 
 pliances, therefore, stand no show in India; the na- 
 tives, in consequence, continue slavish work. 
 
 February twentieth found us in Ajmere, six hun- 
 dred and fifteen miles from Bombay, where we landed 
 at half -past eight, after the night's run from Abu 
 Road. 
 
 Ajmere, a city of seventy-four thousand popula- 
 tion, the key to Rajputana and capital of an isolated 
 British district in the Rajput states, has some artistic 
 mosques and temples, besides the Mayo college for 
 young Rajput princes. The great Akbar built him- 
 self a palace here, the entrance gate to which is very 
 fine. The Arhai-din-Ka-Jhompra Mosque, Mohamme- 
 dan tradition says, was built supernaturally in two 
 and one-half days. There are also several attractive 
 small mosques built by Akbar and Shah Jahan, that 
 by the latter being of marble. Shah Jahan was the 
 great builder of India, and the mosque in Ajmere was 
 the first of his works that we had seen up to that 
 time. One of the principal points of interest is the 
 Dargah, in which, besides many other objects, are two 
 large iron caldrons. Rich pilgrims occasionally pay 
 for a feast of rice, ghi, sugar, almonds, raisins and 
 spices to be cooked in one of these caldrons, the con- 
 tents being ladled out to the populace and finally 
 
 [60] 
 

 i^SfW,- 
 
 ELEPHANT WHICH CARRIED US TO AND FROM 
 CHITORGARH. 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 scrambled for by the attendants of the shrine. Being 
 misguided, we made a trip up a mountain to locate 
 the temple in which the aforesaid caldrons were sup- 
 posed to be, and as the trip must be made afoot, hav- 
 ing taken us two hours, we wound up our day 's sight- 
 seeing dead tired. 
 
 As usual, there would be no train out until late 
 (half -past eleven this time), and with no hotel in the 
 place we passed the interval of time strolling the 
 streets and lounging about the railway station. 
 
 61 
 
CHAPTER VI. 
 
 MORE SIGHTS IN OUT OP WAY PLACES;, AND THE KHYBER 
 
 PASS. 
 
 Our objective point now was Udaipur, one hun- 
 dred and eighty-five miles south and which it took 
 us twelve hours to make, giving us also another night 
 on the te-rain (as some of the natives call the trains). 
 The road to Udaipur, a narrow gauge one and very 
 small compartment cars, made the trip harder than 
 any previously experienced. 
 
 Udaipur, which is two thousand and thirty-four 
 feet above the sea, is the capital of the state of Mewar, 
 and its ruler, the Maharano Dhiraj Sir Fateh Singh, 
 is a descendant of the premier blue blood of India. 
 His palace is conspicuous, mainly for its immensity 
 and beautiful location on Lake Pichola. The city has 
 forty-six thousand population and is surrounded by 
 a bastioned wall with a number of gates. To visit the 
 palace and grounds, permission must be obtained 
 from the British resident. The latter, of which there 
 are many throughout India, look after Britain's inter- 
 ests, such as the collection of tithes, England's price 
 for having conquered India and for keeping the very 
 numerous factions at peace. Besides being shown 
 
 [621 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 through the palace we were rowed around the lake 
 by some of the palace attendants, the price of the 
 courtesy being haksheesh (tip) to the very numerous 
 attendants. For every move one makes in India, 
 some one or more natives expect to be tipped. 
 
 The lake, which has several small islands scat- 
 tered through it, is surrounded by beautiful scenery, 
 the palace looming up grandly on one side of it. Sev- 
 eral of the islands have villas on them, while on the 
 largest of the islands wild boars roam through the 
 jungle. One of the island villas, more or less modern, 
 has baths and rooms, for the zanana (women of the 
 harem) . The Maharana, Prince of the district, is said 
 to be immensely wealthy and to own, besides other 
 luxuries, a hundred elephants, of which, however, but 
 about a half dozen were in the palace grounds at the 
 time of our visit. The district is also rich agricul- 
 turally. 
 
 One other attraction in Udaipur is the great Jag- 
 das temple, in which there is much marble and plaster 
 sculpture. It was very dusty and windy in Udaipur 
 until about six o'clock, when a rain came up, greatly 
 to our relief. This was the third city where our visit 
 seemed to bring rain, though the dry season was 
 still on. 
 
 February twenty-second, at noon, we left for Chi- 
 torgarh station, thirty miles distant, where we arrived 
 
 [63] 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 at four o'clock, and put up at the dak bungalow for 
 the night. The city proper, once a populous one, now 
 has but a small population, is situated on a hill five 
 hundred feet high and about three miles from the 
 station. At half-past seven on the morning after our 
 arrival, on the back of an elephant, we started for 
 the city to view its ruins. The fort or city is sur- 
 rounded by a very high wall, the approach being de- 
 fended at intervals by seven magnificent gateways. 
 Like most Indian cities of importance, Chitorgarh had 
 stood many a siege of warfare and was finally de- 
 stroyed by the Mohammedans, the Emperor Akbar 
 having taken part in its conquest. The remaining 
 monuments of the Hindu reign are the two Towers 
 of Fame and of Victory. The Tower of Fame, about 
 eighty feet high and built about 896 A. D., is in a 
 wonderful state of preservation, and is adorned with 
 sculptures and mouldings from base to summit. The 
 Tower of Victory, originally one hundred and twenty- 
 two feet high, built about 1460 A. D., was badly dam- 
 aged by an earthquake which destroyed a good por- 
 tion of the top. The latter was being rebuilt at the 
 time of our visit. Near this tower is a square pil- 
 lar recording a sati in 1468. Sati or suttee was the 
 ancient custom of burning alive the widow of a Hindu 
 on the same pyre that consumed the husband's body. 
 This custom was stopped under British rule, but we 
 
 [ 64 ] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 were told that occasional sati still occur in out of the 
 way places, though secretly if at all. 
 
 Several temples and palaces in partial state of 
 preservation are also seen in Chitorgarh. The posi- 
 tion on the hill and the immense wall around it makes 
 one feel the place must have been all but impregnable, 
 and no doubt did cost the lives of thousands before 
 destroyed. In its final destruction, over eight thou- 
 sand Rajputs are said to have fallen before the place 
 was taken. Our return to the station on the elephant 
 was a no more comfortable ride than was the trip to 
 the city (Chitorgarh) , and we were now ready to move 
 back to Ajmere from whence we were to go north to 
 Jeypoor. The day of our arrival in Chitorgarh sta- 
 tion, having been Washington's birthday, one of our 
 party that night celebrated the anniversary, aug- 
 mented by a raging toothache, which he wished to 
 forget, by too frequent and copious draughts upon a 
 quart bottle, which had been a part of our ammuni- 
 tion. Elephants, cobras, monkeys, and other jungle 
 denizens in consequence were supposed to be trying 
 throughout the night to get at our friend. 
 
 February twenty-third, at noon, we left Chitorgarh, 
 arriving at Ajmere at seven o'clock, and where at 
 nine o'clock we boarded train for Jeypoor, eighty- 
 four miles distant (seven hundred miles from Bom- 
 bay), arriving at one o'clock the next day. The air 
 5 [65] 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 was cool, almost cold, when driven to the Kaiser-I- 
 Hind Hotel, where Sam quickly spread our bedding, 
 and we soon were sleeping the peace of hard travelers. 
 Jeypoor, a city of one hundred and fifty thousand 
 population, was to me unattractive, nearly all of the 
 buildings being painted the same color— a salmon 
 hue. The principal industry is brass working, of 
 which there is much ; precious stones, also, are largely 
 dealt in. We visited one of the latter, to get to which 
 we were required to climb to the third floor, up a nar- 
 row stairway into a small room, where six or eight 
 men were sitting around on the floor, including the 
 proprietor. The latter, a corpulent, dignified person- 
 age, showed his wares with the dignity of a Rajah. 
 A drive through the city and visit to the palace of 
 the Maharajah was next in order. This district, as 
 well as at Ajmere, was suffering from famine, though 
 no distress was apparent among the people so far as 
 we could see; the plague, though, seemed to exist ev- 
 erywhere to a more or less extent, and it is not to be 
 wondered at when one sees the filth that is so preva- 
 lent. Due to the failure of crops and consequent fam- 
 ine in the agricultural districts, great quantities of 
 jungle pigeons (like our domestic pigeons) were 
 driven into the cities. Here they swarmed around the 
 railway stations, where on grain and rice bags the poor 
 birds would continually pounce in an endeavor to 
 
 [66 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 peck holes into and secure the grain, and from which 
 they were as persistently driven by the natives. We 
 spent but half a day looking at the sights in Jeypoor, 
 and at noon started on the forty-two hours ' and eight 
 hundred mile run further north to Peshawar via Delhi. 
 
 On the morning of February twenty-sixth, at six 
 o'clock, we landed in Peshawar after a long and tire- 
 some ride from Jeypoor. We had passed through the 
 Punjab district where are the wheat fields of India, 
 the River Indus being the source of supply for many 
 miles of irrigation canals. Because of the dry sea- 
 son, more or less of the vegetation all through our 
 visit to date was in a parched state, and hence no 
 growing crops were to be seen. In several districts, 
 however, the black bean of India was being harvested. 
 
 At Peshawar, we put up at the Alexandra Hotels 
 a poor one, but we were about used to that kind. The 
 city has about ninety thousand people, including sev- 
 eral hundred Europeans (British). The latter seem 
 perfectly at home ; both men and women are seen out 
 driving and on horseback with the same ease, appar- 
 ently, as if at home in England. And yet the city is 
 but ten miles from the gateway to the Khyber Pass, 
 with Afghanistan at the other end of the Pass. For 
 centuries this city has been, as it still is, of importance 
 because of the commerce between India, Afghanistan 
 and central Asia, as it also was the seat of strife and 
 [67] 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 warfare before British rule. The city swarms with 
 natives, mostly Mohammedans; then, too, there are 
 those from Afghanistan, Turkestan, central Asia, and 
 the surrounding districts of Peshawar, all in the most 
 picturesque dress and headgear. In addition, there 
 are the numerous bazaars with the wares of Peshawar, 
 such as wax cloth work, bright colored scarfs, orna- 
 mental needle work, and various other articles. The 
 shoe industry here must thrive above everything else 
 judging from the number of cobblers and shoe ba- 
 zaars. The shoes, very ornamental in decoration, and 
 all with the very pointed turned-up toes, are more 
 like a slipper, and are made to be worn without shoe 
 laces. Some of the inhabitants are both wild and 
 fierce looking. Our coming to Peshawar was for the 
 purpose of visiting the Khyber Pass, for which pur- 
 pose a pass from the British resident here was re- 
 quired. 
 
 On the morning of the twenty-seventh, armed with 
 the aforesaid pass, we were driven ten miles to Jum- 
 rood, the entry to the Khyber Pass and where the fort 
 is located. Changing into another vehicle we were 
 driven twelve miles into the Pass to Ali Musjid. This 
 was as far as we were allowed to go, and where we 
 lounged about over our tiffin of cold chicken and 
 eggs which had been brought with us. On two days 
 in the week only, Tuesday and Friday, the Pass is 
 
 [68] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 patrolled on the India side by the Afridis, under 
 British officers, and on the Afghan side of the Pass 
 by the Afghans. Only on these two days of each 
 week do the caravans dare go out of and come into 
 India. Woe to him or those who would attempt the 
 Pass on other days, as the hillsides are infested with 
 fierce Afridis, who delight in picking off with their 
 rifles any wanderer that way. On the day of our 
 visit (Tuesday) there passed in and out of India (Ali 
 Musjid being the point where the caravans met) as 
 near as we could count them about eleven hundred 
 camels, as many or more donkeys, many small bul- 
 locks and horses, all laden with freight of some kind, 
 making up the commerce between India and the sev- 
 eral countries on the other side of the Pass. Kabul, 
 in Afghanistan, and Bokhara in Turkestan, are the 
 principal cities in that part of the world. With the 
 immensity of the caravan and their wild, fierce look- 
 ing attendants, the sight was one never to be forgot- 
 ten. Great, shaggy camels, such as one can probably 
 see in no other part of the world, each heavily laden, 
 slowly wending their way around through the pic- 
 turesque road of the Pass, made that animal look dig- 
 nified, indeed almost imperial, in its carriage. 
 
 While at tiffin and waiting for the approach of the 
 caravans, we were surrounded by the fiercest look- 
 ing fellows (of the neighborhood) that it had ever 
 
 [69 1 
 
DOINa OVER. 
 
 been my privilege to see. Almost every one was armed 
 with some ugly looking weapon, principally knives, 
 and every rascal of them was ready to sell their 
 weapons to the cnrio-hunting tourist at a price. 
 
 The Pass runs through the western portion of the 
 Himalayan range of mountains, which at this point, 
 however, are not high enough to be snowcapped, Ali 
 Musjid being but one thousand seven hundred feet 
 above sea level, with the surrounding hills apparently 
 four or five hundred feet higher, all rugged and abso- 
 lutely free from vegetation. 
 
 The day was ideal, clear and crisp, which, with 
 the sight of the caravans, and the fact that we had 
 been in the historic Khyber Pass produced in me the 
 keenest of unselfish wishes — ^that all my friends might 
 be with us now, or at least that they might some day 
 visit the Pass under like favorable conditions. 
 
 Eeturning to Peshawar at four o'clock, having had 
 a forty-four mile drive out and back, more time was 
 spent visiting the bazaar streets and at eight-forty- 
 five we were again aboard train for the return south, 
 with Lahore, two hundred and seventy-eight miles 
 distant, as the next objective point. 
 
 [70 
 
CHAPTER VII. 
 
 TREATS PRINCIPALLY OP DELHI AND AGRA, THE SHOW 
 TOWNS OP INDIA. 
 
 At noon, on February twenty-eighth, we arrived 
 in Lahore (fifteen hours to make two hundred and 
 seventy-eight miles), the city of Kiplings' Kim, the 
 Zam Zammah, and the Wonder House. This city is 
 situated in what looks to be a rich agricultural — and 
 it certainly is a pleasing-looking — district in the 
 Punjab. 
 
 Rain had just preceded us on our trip through 
 here on our way to Peshawar and from the appear- 
 ance of vegetation there had been no dry season. 
 
 Lahore, a city of two hundred thousand popula- 
 tion, is attractive, as it is also important commercially, 
 the railway shops employing two thousand men. The 
 place also has a theatre, there being many Europeans 
 (mainly British) located here. Wood carving is the 
 principal art industry and which reflects itself even 
 upon the houses, the balconies and projecting oriel 
 windows being elaborately carved. The narrow streets, 
 crowded with people in costumes of variety of pat- 
 tern and color, made the whole striking in picturesque- 
 ness. We did not visit any of the mosques here, con- 
 
 [71] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 fining ourselves to the Wonder House, as some of the 
 natives call the museum. The latter contains a great 
 collection of antiquities^ arts and manufactures of 
 the Punjab. Such wood carvings, as screens, and 
 other articles, I had never before seen. 
 
 At six o'clock in the evening we again boarded 
 the train and were on our way to Amritsar, thirty- 
 two miles away, and where we arrived at eight o'clock, 
 in time for dinner at a fair hotel. This city, of one 
 hundred and sixty-two thousand population, is the 
 seat of the Sikh sect of Hindus, and is also the pricci- 
 pal city of the Sikhs. This sect of soldiery were the 
 ones to remain loyal to Britain during the mutiny of 
 1857, and from amongst them are now selected the 
 policemen for the British orient. Rug weaving is 
 the principal industry, the most of which are made by 
 very young boys. Most of the so-called Persian rugs 
 sold in America are manufactured at this place. As 
 to temples, the Darbar Sahib, or Golden Temple, is 
 the foremost. While not of extraordinary beauty, its 
 situation in the center of a tank, or pool, upon a plat- 
 form sixty-five feet square, approached beneath an 
 archway along a marble causeway two hundred and 
 four feet long, flanked on either side by gilded at- 
 tractive lamps, makes of the whole a very pleasing 
 picture. The lower part of the temple is of marble 
 while the greater part of it is encased in gilded cop- 
 
 [721 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 per. Thousands of dollars are here stuck on the 
 buildings as offerings in the shape of gold leaf. Some 
 very valuable jewels belonging to the temple, and 
 locked in the temple treasury, we were unable to see, 
 the man in charge being at home, sick. As a special 
 privilege, which we were, however, required to pay 
 for, we were allowed to listen to the reading, by a 
 high priest, from the Granth, the holy of holy books. 
 The scene was in the temple, the walls of which were 
 also gilded and painted, the high priest and all in at- 
 tendance being seated on the floor. Pilgrims and dev- 
 otees here throw offerings of cowries (small shells, 
 used as money) , money or flowers into a sheet spread 
 upon the floor for the purpose. In addition to the 
 reading from the sacred book, some of the high priest 's 
 assistants chanted sacred verses to the music of queer 
 stringed instruments. Our visit to Amritsar was in- 
 teresting, but not exciting. 
 
 Delhi was reached on the morning of March first 
 after a night's ride of three hundred and ten miles 
 from Amritsar. The city, located on the river Jumna, 
 has a population of two hundred and fifty thousand, 
 is eight hundred and ninety miles north of Bombay 
 and nine hundred and ninety miles from Calcutta. 
 Delhi dates back prior to the tenth century and was 
 the object of conquest, more or less all the time, hav- 
 ing, it is said, been destroyed six times, and again 
 [73] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 rebuilt. Its conquest was alternately by Hindu and 
 Mohammedan, or by contending Mohammedan moguls. 
 For miles around the present^ city can be seen the 
 ruins of previous ones, for each time when rebuilt it 
 was away from the old site. In a commercial way, 
 Delhi is famous for its jewelers, silversmiths, em- 
 broideries and ivory workers. Many of its buildings 
 are world famed for the beauty of architecture pro- 
 duced in marble. The fort, with its high massive walls 
 that stand boldly as impregnable except to modern 
 warfare, contains the gems of Delhi 's architecture, for 
 here are the marble palaces, mosques and halls of pri- 
 vate and public audience, of the Shah Jahan period. 
 Having passed through two immense and noble look- 
 ing gateways the visitor soon finds himself admiring, 
 with open-eyed wonder, the beauties of the Dewan-i- 
 Khas (Hall of Private Audience), entirely of marble, 
 where the nobles and dignitaries held audience with 
 the Emperor. With its pavilions and curved marble 
 roof it is said to be one of the most graceful buildings 
 in the world. The ceiling of the Dewan-i-Khas was 
 once covered with silver, which was stripped off and 
 carried away during one of the conquests of Delhi. 
 The Dewan-i-Am (or Hall of Public Audience), a 
 much larger building of red sandstone, is also very 
 attractive. It was in this building, over a raised re- 
 cess, that the Emperor, when holding public audience, 
 
 [74] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 used to be seated under the famous peacock throne 
 made of precious stones which were later carried away 
 in time of conquest. The Pearl Mosque, the palaces, 
 the baths, the zanana (harem) quarters, and tombs, 
 all marble, made up a collection incomparably pleas- 
 ing, and too numerous for detailed description. In 
 the city proper is the Jama Musjid, or large mosque, 
 the largest, I believe, in India. There are many other 
 attractive mosques and tombs in Delhi, which would 
 give the traveler ample subjects for an extended and 
 interesting visit. The fort, with all its beauty of 
 architecture hidden from the public view, now has 
 stationed behind its walls a British garrison. 
 
 Delhi was one of the cities closely connected, with 
 the mutiny of Indian troops in 1857. With all the 
 beauty of architecture, the natives here, as elsewhere 
 in India, seem oblivious of its presence, as they also 
 are apparently poverty stricken, at least poverty is 
 apparent on all sides. About fifteen miles from the 
 present city is old Delhi and where is located the 
 Kutab Minar or Tower of Victory. The latter, two 
 hundred and thirty-eight feet high, built of red sand- 
 stone, except for the top portion, which is marble, is 
 said to date back to the thirteenth century. Three 
 hundred and seventy-nine steps lead to the top, inside 
 the tower, and from which point a good view for miles 
 around is obtained. 
 
 [751 
 
DOING OVEB. 
 
 At Delhi we also saw, for the first time, the Nautch 
 girls (dancing girls) in India. These, three in num- 
 ber, and two men with musical instruments, came 
 upon us as we were about to alight from a carriage 
 for a visit to the large mosque. The girls importuned 
 us for baksheesh for which they would dance for us. 
 One of the women good naturedly asked for a little 
 extra baksheesh for her unborn babe. Two of the 
 girls were rather comely in appearance and all ap- 
 peared happy and anxious to show us their dancing, 
 in exchange for some of our rupees. Many more than 
 the two days we remained in Delhi might well be 
 spent there to advantage, and really are necessary to 
 properly see and appreciate the beauty and interest 
 here offered the sight-seer. 
 
 Our next objective point, Agra, one hundred and 
 thirty-nine miles distant, was reached on the follow- 
 ing day, March fourth. Agra, with its one hundred 
 and seventy-five thousand native population, is also 
 located on the Jumna River. The weather, finally, 
 was showing signs of the approach of summer, which 
 in India is said to set in on March tenth to the day. 
 We were still experiencing dust and wind. The dis- 
 trict in which Agra is located was suffering from the 
 effects of crop failure, which in India means famine, 
 for not enough of grain ever seems to be raised in any 
 one locality to carry the peasants beyond the next 
 
 [76] 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 year's harvest. While there was not any apparent suf- 
 fering, of the populace, we did see many cattle and 
 camels that were greatly emaciated. These poor beasts 
 had been turned loose to find food as best they might, 
 and as all vegetation seemed dried out, there was 
 nothing green to feed upon except the leaves of trees. 
 The above situation was seen in the agricultural dis- 
 trict in a trip of twenty-two miles into the interior 
 from Agra. The latter city has the jewel tomb of the 
 world— the Taj Mahal, resting place of Arjmand 
 Banu, the favorite wife of Shah Jahan, and generally 
 known as Mumtaz Mahal, or chosen of the palace. 
 The Taj Mahal was built about 1640 A. D., by the 
 Emperor Shah Jahan, the greatest of India's mogul 
 builders. The building, entirely of white marble, is 
 said to have cost from eighteen million to thirty-two 
 million rupees and to have taken about twenty-two 
 years to complete. It stands upon a platform of mar- 
 ble eighteen feet high and three hundred and thirteen 
 feet square, presenting a picture that must be seen to 
 be appreciated. At each corner of the platform is a 
 minaret (or tower) also of white marble, one hundred 
 and thirty-seven feet high. The tomb itself measures 
 one hundred and eighty-six feet square, the corners 
 being beveled off, are pierced with recesses or bays, 
 while the building is one hundred and eight feet high 
 topped by a great dome over the centre, rising to a 
 
 [771 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 height of one hundred and eip:hty-seven feet from the 
 platform. In addition, there are small domes at each 
 corner of the building. The exterior and interior are 
 decorated with plants and flowers most delicately 
 carved in the marble. In the centre of the tomb, 
 down from the dome and enclosed by a marble screen, 
 is the marble cenotaph as a reminder that the visitor 
 is in the presence of the dead. Meanwhile the body of 
 Arjmand Banu lies buried deep down beneath the 
 platform directly under the cenotaph, away from the 
 gaze of those who come to admire the tomb erected 
 over her remains. It is said to be the most beautiful 
 building in the world. I do not recaU having previ- 
 ously seen one so rich in exquisite taste and grace of 
 design to which the marble from which built adds 
 all that was needed to complete the picture. From the 
 sight of the Taj Mahal must have been inspired those 
 words "a. thing of beauty and joy forever." As the 
 eyes of untold thousands have in the past feasted 
 themselves upon its incomparable loveliness, so the 
 Taj, if not destroyed, must continue to excite raptur- 
 ous admiration in the future. Intended as an Em- 
 peror's tribute to a beloved wife, Shah Jahan in the 
 Taj Mahal, also bequeathed to the world a monument 
 which, likely, will never be equalled. The following 
 tribute by Sir Edwin Arnold will greatly add to my 
 endeavor to picture the Taj : 
 
 [78] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 ''Not architecture; as all others are, 
 But the proud passion of an Emperor's love 
 Wrought into living stone, which gleams and soars 
 With body of beauty, shrining soul and thought ; 
 
 * * * As when some face 
 Divinely fair unveils before our eyes — 
 Some woman beautiful unspeakably — 
 And the blood quickens and the spirit leaps, 
 And will to worship bends the half -yielded knees. 
 While breath forgets to breathe. So is the Taj." 
 
 That the building survived nearly three centuries 
 seems nothing short of miraculous, when, considering 
 the strife and warfare which prevailed in India for 
 centuries prior to British rule. Situated on the River 
 Jumna, the Taj may be seen at a great distance. 
 Many people rave over a view of the building by 
 moonlight, but the sunlight shows it at its best to my 
 vision. 
 
 In the fort at Agra, as at Delhi, there are many 
 treasures in marble. Some of these are the Pearl 
 Mosque of wondrous beauty, the Gem Mosque, the 
 Jasmine Tower, a truly marble pearl, the palaces, the 
 golden pavilion, and others equally beautiful. All 
 these make up such an attractive picture the eyes are 
 fairly intoxicated from overf easting while the mind 
 is overtaxed in its effort to absorb what is before it. 
 Once away from the above surroundings memory re- 
 flects but a visionary picture, yet scarcely to be for- 
 gotten, once seen. The fort, which encloses these treas- 
 
 [79 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 ures in architecture, has a circuit of more than a mile, 
 the wall of massive red stone, standing seventy feet 
 high surrounded by a moat thirty feet wide and thirty- 
 five feet deep. As in Delhi, there are too many attrac- 
 tions in Agra to be described in detail. One other 
 building, not above referred to, and located across 
 the Jumna River, is the tomb of I 'timad-ud-daulah, 
 the grandfather of Arjmand Banu (Mumtaz Mahal), 
 is noteworthy as being very beautiful. 
 
 Our visit to Fateh-pur-sikri was on the second day 
 in Agra and to which we were driven some twenty- 
 two miles in a fairly comfortable half native, half 
 foreign vehicle. Fateh-pur-sikri was founded by the 
 Great Akbar, who, after building the city, with its 
 fort, inside of which were the palaces, abandoned the 
 place after a few years and removed back to Agra. 
 That time and money were objects of no considerable 
 consideration to the great mogul emperors of India 
 is most strongly shown in the building and abandon- 
 ment of the above city. With thousands of slaves to 
 do the work, and all the subjects of a ruler contribu- 
 ting the enforced liberal tithes, the emperor need but 
 live long enough to have built himself innumerable 
 monuments if so disposed. Notwithstanding the mon- 
 uments built and glory attained in his vigorous man- 
 hood, Shah Jahan's last years were spent a prisoner. 
 His own son, Aurangzeb, having usurped the throne, 
 
 [80] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 had his father confined in a part of the palace from 
 one of the rooms of which he could look across the 
 Jumna at his master monument, the Taj Mahal. For 
 nine years prior to his death, thus confined, he is said 
 to have sat daily looking over at the tomb where is 
 buried she who had preceded him in death — Arjmand 
 Banu, his favorite wife. 
 
 At Fateh-pur-sikri are many attractive red sand- 
 stone buildings inside the fort, including one only of 
 marble — ^the tomb of the Saint Shaik Salim Chisti. 
 This tomb has much lattice screen work and carving, 
 all marble. Notwithstanding the place is abandoned 
 the most of the buildings inside the fort are in a per- 
 fect state of preservation, lasting monuments to the 
 great Akbar. 
 
 On the third day in Agra we visited, seven miles 
 out, the tomb of Akbar, a building of red sandstone 
 and very elaborate in design. The cenotaph, of mar- 
 ble, which rests upon the top of the building, is very 
 beautiful. At the foot of the cenotaph is a four foot 
 marble pillar upon which the great Koh-i-Nur dia- 
 mond had been placed in position, and from which 
 the Persian Shah Nadir carried it away to Persia. 
 During our visit in Agra, the Mohammedans were cel- 
 ebrating the anniversary of the death of Mohammed's 
 grandson, Husain, whose mother was Fatima, favorite 
 daughter of Mohammed. Processions were parading 
 6 [81] . 
 
DOING- OVER. 
 
 the streets all the time for ten days. This anniversary, 
 all over India, is said nsually to cause trouble between 
 the Hindus and the followers of Mohammed (both 
 being fanatical religionists), during the celebration 
 period. Our visits to Agra and Delhi were not unlike 
 a visit to an exhibition of architectural display, as in 
 truth they were. My enthusiasm knew no bounds, 
 unless subdued by awe, for surely we had now seen 
 the beauties of beauties in Indian architecture, the 
 like of which I had not previously dreamed of, unless 
 it were possible to picture them in connection with 
 the stories of the Arabian Nights. 
 
 [82] 
 
CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 THE SACRED CITY OF BENARES^ AND BUDDH GAYA. 
 
 We next visited Lucknow, one hundred and ninety- 
 four miles south from Agra, having gone aboard the 
 train in the latter city on the afternoon of March 
 sixth, arriving at Lucknow at five o'clock the follow- 
 ing morning. 
 
 Lucknow has a native population of two hundred 
 and eighty thousand, of whom three-fifths are Hindus, 
 with a very small foreign (British) population. It 
 is, perhaps, needless to say that the British are scat- 
 tered all through India, many of them in small out 
 of the way places. Lucknow was, with Cawnpur, the 
 seat of the mutiny of 1857, when English men, women 
 and children were frightfully massacred. The ruined 
 buildings of what were used as the fortifications by the 
 British during the mutiny, are still shown the tourists ; 
 an affable old soldier who had been one of the defend- 
 ers at the time was in charge and showed us over the 
 grounds. Except for the above ruins, nothing of 
 especial interest was to be seen in Lucknow, hence 
 the day dragged along slowly until eight o 'clock, when 
 we boarded train for Benares, one hundred and 
 eighty-seven miles away. Once aboard the cars, no 
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DOING OVER. 
 
 time was lost in having our bedding spread, and turn- 
 ing in for the night, for, in addition to having arrived 
 at Lucknow at five o 'clock that morning, we were due 
 to arrive in Benares at three o'clock the next morn- 
 ing. Those were hard traveling days for us. 
 
 Having arrived in Benares, as above stated, and 
 as it was our intention to be out upon the river (the 
 Ganges) at sunrise, no thought of intervening sleep 
 had been considered. The city has a native popula- 
 tion of about two hundred and forty thousand, with 
 but few foreigners. It is located on the Ganges River, 
 four hundred and sixty miles north of Calcutta. Be- 
 nares is considered by the Hindus to be the holiest 
 city in India, as is the Ganges the holiest river. The 
 Hindus come here on pilgrimages from all parts of 
 India to worship in some one of the two thousand 
 temples in the city. In addition, the pilgrim does not 
 lose the opportunity, while in Benares, to bathe in 
 the holy Ganges River, and also, at the same time, 
 drink the water or rinse the mouth therewith, and to 
 carry away with them a quantity of the water to their 
 distant homes. All the above is done in the belief 
 that the waters of the Ganges cleanses the devotee 
 spiritually. The tourists, to get a proper view of the 
 above proceedings, hire a boat and boatmen and are 
 rowed out upon the Ganges along the city front, sun- 
 rise being the best time, because at that time the 
 
 [84] 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 greatest number of bathers are to be seen. During the 
 interval of our arrival at Benares and sunrise, about 
 six o'clock, nothing was left for us to do but lounge 
 around the railway station. Before the sun had risen, 
 however, we were upon the river, and already the 
 Hindu population could be seen coming down the 
 bathing ghats (stone steps), leading to the river, for 
 their morning ablutions. Men, women, young boys 
 and girls made up the throng. There being a good 
 many of the bathing gJiats along the city front, our 
 boatmen rowed us up and down within forty or fifty 
 feet of the shore, so that a good view was obtained of 
 the bathers. The latter, with but few exceptions, paid 
 little or no heed to the strangers staring at them, while 
 those in prayer, of whom there were many, appeared 
 quite oblivious to our presence, their eyes, if not 
 closed, being directed toward the rising sun coming 
 up over the bank on the opposite side of the river. 
 At one of the burning ghats, the bodies of Hindus 
 were being cremated, the process being about the 
 same as described in these notes on the sights seen in 
 Bombay. 
 
 During our stay at one of the burning ghats four 
 bodies were thus cremated. A number of sati stones 
 are also to be seen here. These sati (or suttee) 
 stones were put up to commemorate a sati, or burning 
 alive of a wife or the wives at the pyre that con- 
 [85] 
 
DOINO OVER. 
 
 sumed the body of departed husbands a long time 
 since. Infants, we were told, were thrown into the 
 river bodily, to verify which, apparently, we saw, at 
 a point along the water's edge, a vulture devouring 
 the body of an infant. While a somewhat gruesome 
 sight the burning ghats were not without interest as 
 a part of sight-seeing. The city from the river looked 
 very picturesque with the attractive spires of pal- 
 aces and temples to be seen everywhere. In the 
 city proper the so-called Golden Temple probably at- 
 tracts the greater number of tourists. This temple, 
 even more than other Hindu temples, is too sacred to 
 admit of any but Hindus. It fronts on a crowded 
 street scarcely more than five feet wide and from a 
 position in the second floor of a building opposite we 
 were allowed to look down on the throngs of wor- 
 shipers, who were streaming in and out of the tem- 
 ple. One group of worshipers going in, led with 
 them a cow. The cow, by the way, is the most sacred 
 thing in India to the Hindus. All through India we 
 .saw these sacred beasts stroll the streets unmolested, 
 and woe to him who would desecrate her by any ill 
 treatment. It was an uncommon thing to see a cow 
 going through the streets, at intervals helping herself 
 to such bits of delicate morsels of vegetables from the 
 stands of some vegetable dealer unmolested by the 
 owner except to be gently pushed along after a mouth- 
 
 [86] 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 ful had been taken. On the ground floor of the build- 
 ing from which we had viewed the Golden Temple, 
 there was a sacred bull carved from granite over 
 which there was hung a punka (a large fan arrange- 
 ment) to keep the beast cool. Close by is the sacred 
 Well of Knowledge, into which the god Shiva is said 
 to have been thrown, and who, the Hindus say, still 
 exists there. Not far from the Golden Temple is the 
 Nepalese Temple, and which, up under the eaves on 
 all four sides, has a row of most obscene carvings. On 
 the outskirts of the city is the so-called Monkey Tem- 
 ple, so named from the numerous monkeys who infest 
 the grounds and the trees around it. The tourist 
 visiting this place is expected to give baksheesh to 
 every Hindu in the place, and there are many of them. 
 One of the further interesting sights seen in Benares 
 was a procession of Sadhus (fakirs or holy men) on 
 their way to a feast that had been prepared for them 
 at the expense of a wealthy pilgrim, who happened 
 to be in the city at the time of our visit. These Sad- 
 hus were naked but for a cover around their loins, 
 their hair disheveled and bodies smeared over with 
 ashes, as they always are. Though on their way to 
 a feast, their faces betrayed no pleasure, expressing 
 nothing but the usual vacant stare. There are said 
 to be five million of Sadhus in India. These men 
 live on the charity of the people, go from place to 
 
 [87] 
 
DOING OVEB. 
 
 place, stark naked, except for the slight covering 
 around their loins, and are smeared all over with ashes 
 as herebefore described. While looked upon as holy 
 men by the Hindus and though they scourge them- 
 selves frightfully in various ways to gain Nervana, 
 most of them are said to be bad morally. 
 
 It is beyond belief as to how these fanatics can 
 long endure some of the self-inflicted tortures, as for 
 instance, sitting or standing in one position for years, 
 oft-times with arms extended above their heads until 
 the arms become rigid ; some stand on one foot ; others 
 are said to hang suspended for hours over a fire, the 
 while swinging to and fro. Other self-inflicted tor- 
 tures are indulged in, and how they live through them 
 is inconceivable. "We saw several young boys amongst 
 those of the fakirs who came under our observation. 
 
 Benares was interesting to me as it also is filled 
 with religious fanatics. The city dates back, sup- 
 posedly, several thousand years before the Christian 
 era. It was near here, at Sarnath, that Buddha is 
 said to have begun to preach his religion, some two 
 thousand five hundred years ago. 
 
 With the curtain down on Benares and a ride of 
 one hundred and thirty-seven miles, we reached Gaya 
 on March ninth, from which point we were to visit 
 Buddh Gaya, seven miles away in the country. It 
 was at Buddh Gaya (by some referred to as the cen- 
 
 [88] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 tre of the universe and seat of knowledge) that Bud- 
 dha retired into the wilderness (not much less a wil- 
 derness now) for his long meditation. Here under 
 the sacred Bo tree, long since destroyed, but replaced 
 from time to time by a new one, Buddha is said to 
 have been inspired in his new teaching, — the declara- 
 tion that the Eight-fold Path was the way by which 
 all suffering was annihilated, through right views, 
 right resolve, right speech, right actions and living, 
 right effort, right self-knowledge and right medita- 
 tion. A temple here built in Buddha's honor is said 
 to date back to 543 B. C, and is closely connected with 
 events of the life of Buddha. The building is in the 
 form of a pyramid, nine stories high, of burnt brick 
 cemented with mud, ornamented on the outside with 
 niches and mouldings. The place is held most sacred 
 by the Buddhists, of whom, strange to say, there are 
 greater numbers now in Burma, China, Corea and 
 Japan, than in India. The Brahman priests seem to 
 have effectually squelched Buddhism in India. 
 
 We met here a Japanese Buddhist priest who was 
 on a pilgrimage to the sacred birthplace of Bud- 
 dhism. Around the temple is still a portion of a 
 stone railing, which has four bars of stone supported 
 by pillars at intervals of eight feet. The top rail is 
 ornamented with carvings of mermaids, or females 
 with tails of fish, inserting their arms into the mouths 
 
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DOING OVEE. 
 
 of imaginary crocodiles, with large elephant-like ears 
 and long hind legs. The other three bars of the rail- 
 ing bear carvings of lotus flowers. The pillars are 
 adorned with carvings of various groups, such as a 
 woman and child, a man with a woman who has the 
 head of a horse, centaurs, and various other things. 
 It is said to be the most ancient sculptured monument 
 in India. The footprint of Buddha, in stone, is here 
 seen and measures about two feet. 
 
 The visit to Buddh Gaya, in interest, well repaid 
 the dusty and otherwise uncomfortable ride of four- 
 teen miles in a shaky vehicle from Gaya and return. 
 
 "We now had before us a run of three hundred and 
 forty-two miles to Calcutta, where I expected to re- 
 ceive the first mail from home, since sailing from New 
 York on January sixth. That I was thirsting for 
 word from home, after more than two months of 
 silence, need scarcely have been recorded in these 
 notes, but my thoughts, notwithstanding, crowded to 
 the bursting point with the interesting things seen in 
 the interval, were now too much centered in the pleas- 
 ant anticipation of ''letters from home" not to have 
 reflected themselves in my note book at the time. 
 
 90 
 
CHAPTER IX. 
 
 DARJEELING AND THE HIMALAYAN MOUNTAINS. 
 
 Our arrival in Calcutta on March tenth at six 
 o'clock in the morning was coincident with the ad- 
 vent in India of summer. That the air was hot and 
 sultry we could vouch for, especially as we had not 
 previously, in the whole trip, experienced other than 
 clear hot days and cool nights. Calcutta is just about 
 half way around the world from Chicago, hence I 
 was now twelve thousand miles from home and we 
 had voyaged eight thousand one hundred and fifty 
 knots from New York to Bombay, besides having 
 traveled about four thousand six hundred miles by 
 rail in our traveling through India. 
 
 Calcutta is claimed to be the largest city in India, 
 with a population of nine hundred thousand, — how- 
 ever, during our stay in Bombay, the newspapers 
 were claiming a larger population than Calcutta's. 
 That rivalry between cities as to population exists 
 the world over is apparent even in India. Calcutta 
 does not have the attractive public buildings of which 
 Bombay boasts, and, besides, needs a decent hotel 
 more than any place of even much smaller size that 
 I have ever seen. Neither has it the attractiveness 
 
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 in sights of most cities previously visited on this trip. 
 The city has a large foreign population, mostly Brit- 
 ish, hence the buildings in the European part are 
 of foreign architecture. It also has been, for many 
 years, the principal port city of India, and its com- 
 merce has been of corresponding importance and mag- 
 nitude. The native part of the city is not unlike 
 other cities of India. The city is on the Hugli River, 
 which is spanned by a substantial bridge, connecting 
 with a considerable population on the other side. On 
 the latter is the botanical garden, very attractive, 
 with the largest banyan tree (claimed) in the world. 
 A zoological garden here gave us the first sight of a 
 cobra (in captivity), and some of which we had ex- 
 pected to see all through India. Though already five 
 weeks in the country and though nearly five thousand 
 miles had been traveled, we had seen but little of the 
 jungles. As I had previously pictured India as more 
 or less a vast jungle, my surprise was complete. 
 
 This tenth day of March being one of the numer- 
 ous native holidays, the banks were all closed, hence 
 whatever mail from home was awaiting us could not 
 be obtained because addressed in care of one of the 
 banks. The next day was Sunday when the banks 
 were still closed, and as we decided time could be 
 gained by the move, we left Calcutta on Sunday for a 
 visit to Darjeeling, to return to Calcutta on the fol- 
 
 [92] 
 

 
 
 liiliilllili 
 
 4» ;S^,<V' 
 
 GREAT TEMPLE TO BUDDHA AT BUDDH GAYA, 
 INDIA, 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 lowing Tuesday. This additional wait for mail did 
 not add happiness to my previous anticipation of 
 pleasure over coming into Calcutta. The holiday 
 above referred to was a Hindu one and in connection 
 with it the natives celebrated, mainly, so far as we 
 could see, by throwing at one another a carmine paint 
 or powder. In consequence the streets were full of 
 Hindus, covered, some of them, from head to feet 
 with the coloring. A most amusing incident occurred 
 at church during mass on Sunday morning. The 
 church was filled with a congregation, made up, al- 
 most entirely, of natives, and while the priest was 
 in the midst of his sermon, a crow flew in, lighted 
 upon the top of one of the several pillars, gave a num- 
 ber of caws, looked down at the gathered congrega- 
 tion, as if trying to attract attention, seemed surprised 
 that no one apparently gave him the slightest heed, 
 and, giving a few more caws, flew out. So far as I 
 could see not one other of those present even looked 
 in the direction of the crow, but to me it was a highly, 
 out of the ordinary and amusing incident. 
 
 At four o'clock on the afternoon of March elev- 
 enth, we boarded the train for Darjeeling, located up 
 in the Himalayan mountains and perched upon the 
 side of one of the numerous peaks of that range. 
 While only two hundred and fifty miles from Cal- 
 cutta, the trip takes about twenty-one hours, made 
 
 [93 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 up of a run of about two hundred miles by rail to a 
 point on the river Ganges, which is crossed by boat to 
 Siliguri (during which short time we had dinner on 
 board), and finally from Siliguri by narrow gauge 
 railway fifty miles up to Darjeeling. This latter part 
 of the trip took six hours and carried us from about 
 sea level to seven thousand feet above it. The scenery, 
 beginning soon after leaving Calcutta, then through 
 the jungles from Siliguri to Darjeeling, was the most 
 attractive I had seen in India. The jungle feature 
 was of especial interest because it was the first real 
 forest through which we had traveled, in the nearly 
 five thousand miles in India. Vegetation, all along 
 the trip from Calcutta, looked fresh, and formed a 
 great contrast to most others seen, except that in the 
 Punjab district, heretofore referred to. A new inter- 
 est was inspired in the visit to Darjeeling because of 
 the unique situation of the place upon the mountain 
 side, just hanging on, so to speak. A further inter- 
 est was that of the inhabitants and their picturesque 
 costumes. The natives here have a cast of features 
 coarse and large, somewhat Chinese, are rugged in 
 physique, added to which was evident hardihood of 
 general makeup, natural to mountain life. Chinese 
 and Thibetans also are mixed up in the population. 
 The women here are the carrier coolies, and with ease 
 will handle luggage consisting of trunks, carrying 
 
 [941 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 it on their shoulders with no apparent greater diffi- 
 culty than would the men have experienced. All ap- 
 peared good natured, and especially the women, ev- 
 eryone of whom it seemed had some cheap jewelry 
 for sale as they moved about the streets. Wherever 
 our party appeared throughout the town, especially 
 in the so-called bazaar streets, these women would 
 surround us importuning the purchase of some one 
 or other of their stock of jewelry. The purchase of a 
 cheap ring from one of these women gave me an in- 
 teresting experience and insight into their business 
 acumen. Like all orientals, those in Darjeeling are 
 natural traders, in which the women are the leaders 
 rather than the men. On one of the streets we saw 
 a very interesting dance by six men, some of whom 
 wore masks and all being dressed in a kind of skirt 
 costume, very picturesque, as was also the dance. The 
 inhabitants here were not dark like those in the south 
 of India, but appeared rather of a tanned color 
 through which showed plainly their red cheeks, clear 
 eyes and general good health. 
 
 Darjeeling is the gateway from India to Thibet, 
 and during our visit a Thibetan representative (called 
 shape, pronounced sha-pee) and suite were en route 
 to Calcutta to make the yearly payment of indemnity 
 to Britain as a result of the expedition of Colonel 
 Younghusband into Thibet several years ago. It was 
 
 r951 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 from Darjeeling that the expedition started, after 
 the soldiers had been trained up to the capacity of 
 enduring mountain height and climbing. For the 
 expedition into Thibet it was necessary to go up some 
 twelve thousand to fourteen thousand feet, the high- 
 est altitude by far that any army ever traversed. The 
 mountain pass, which it was necessary to take, and 
 which Younghusband did take, is said to be only about 
 one hundred miles from Darjeeling. The district of 
 Darjeeling, which extends some distance, raises large 
 quantities of tea, said to be as much as eight million 
 pounds each year. It has a population of about one 
 hundred and sixty thousand. It is in some part of 
 this district, or just beyond it toward Thibet, that 
 the women are said to have two or more, even as many 
 as seven, husbands. The latter must, however, be 
 brothers if a woman has more than one husband. 
 These women are said to lord it over their husbands, 
 the latter being entirely submissive to their lot. 
 
 The women in Darjeeling wear massive earrings 
 that seemed to be solid gold, the weight of which, from 
 long wearing, had extended the slit in the ear large 
 enough, in some cases, to easily insert two fingers. 
 Our visit to this city was, mainly, to get a view of Mt. 
 Everest, one hundred and twenty miles away, and to 
 see which it is necessary to be at a point two thousand 
 feet higher, at Tiger Hill, at sunrise. Therefore, at 
 
 [96 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 half-past three on the morning following our arrival 
 we were called and after a chota hazrai (small break- 
 fast or tea and toast) we started on horseback up the 
 mountain road. A full moon, a clear sky and a crisp 
 atmosphere made the trip the most enjoyable, as it 
 also was perhaps the most interesting and novel horse- 
 back ride of my life.. We arrived at Tiger Hill (nine 
 thousand feet above sea level) at six o'clock; day- 
 break was well advanced and the sun's rays were 
 already reflected far and wide. Our guides soon had 
 a fire built and hot tea ready, both of which after 
 the cold ride (about forty degrees temperature) of 
 about two hours (distance six miles) were decidedly 
 welcome. Each moment had brought the sun nearer 
 the horizon and its reflection upon the snow-capped 
 mountains was already apparent, when of a sudden, 
 as it seemed, and while all eyes were in its direction, 
 it burst full upon us. There was now before us the 
 grandest panorama in nature in all the world. Be- 
 tween our point of vantage on Tiger Hill and the sun, 
 there was, away below us, a sea of clouds, beyond 
 these to right and left, towering high above our posi- 
 tion, was that wondrous collection of the Himalaya's 
 high peaks. Miles of these latter and miles of snow 
 and ice upon which the sun's rays were now adding 
 richness of color incomparable. Of the dozen or more 
 peaks, ranging in height from seventeen thousand to 
 7 [ 97 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 twenty-eight thousand one hundred and fifty-six feet, 
 the latter, that of Kinchinjunga, stood forward most 
 majestically. Though forty miles away, it seemed not 
 beyond a very few miles, due of course to its great 
 height and the clear atmosphere. Far as the eyes 
 could see east and west there was a continuous range 
 of peaks of snow and ice and all covered by the sun's 
 rays. The whole scene was one so awe-inspiring that 
 there was within me an instinctive feeling to take off 
 my hat and bow in the presence of such grandeur, 
 keeping in mind Him who created it all. And still 
 there is more to tell, for away off, and the eye follows 
 the range of mountains eastward for one hundred and 
 twenty miles, where, in the clear morning of our 
 visit, could just be seen the outlines of the peak of 
 that monarch of high peaks, Mt. Everest (twenty- 
 nine thousand and tw^o feet high). The latter is 
 so far away that with all its power, the sun only 
 just shows Mt. Everest to our vision, without the rich 
 adornments of snow and ice as seen in the range 
 nearer our position. 
 
 The good fortune which had been ours all througl 
 the tour to date was with us again, for but for the 
 clear sky and atmosphere Mt. Everest could not be 
 seen and even the infinitely greater grandeur of those 
 peaks closer to us would have been diminished, if 
 indeed not entirely obscured. Because of the extreme 
 
 [98] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 height and climatic conditions, it is but seldom, 'twas 
 said, that so clear a morning is seen on Tiger Hill as 
 was our good fortune. Indeed, before we left the 
 point, and we had not been there more than half an 
 hour, the clouds were gathering and by noon rain 
 was falling in Darjeeling. The trip up and back had 
 taken about four hours. The ride back to the latter 
 point from Tiger Hill was even more fascinating than 
 the going up, for the sun was now well up, and miles 
 upon miles of mountainous expanse within view. Hav- 
 ing seen what we had come for, we planned an early 
 departure from Darjeeling, hence early afternoon 
 found us again aboard the narrow gauge railway for 
 the return trip to Calcutta. The rain that had come 
 up somewhat obscured our view of the surrounding 
 scenery, but the picturesqueness of the narrow gauge 
 railway was unchanged, for winding around through 
 the mountain, a sharp curve here and again, a switch 
 back from time to time, then a stop at some station,, 
 where more interesting people would be seen, and 
 finally the ride again through the jungle, where mon- 
 keys could be seen in the trees, we continued the de- 
 scent down and down until Siliguri was again reached. 
 Darkness had come upon us before the arrival at Sili- 
 guri and instead of a headlight, our engine had on 
 top of it a coal-oil burner of some kind that threw 
 the light well around into the jungle and ahead of 
 
 [99] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 the train as well. The trip to Calcutta was over the 
 same route as when we had gone to Darjeeling and 
 we pulled into the station at Calcutta at seven o'clock 
 on the following morning. 
 
 Though high upon the Himalayas, Darjeeling is 
 said to have a temperature of thirty degrees minimum 
 and eighty degrees the highest, and the rainfall to 
 be as much as one hundred and thirty inches in a 
 year. At Siliguri we saw a small detachment of 
 Ghurkas. These fellows, like the Sikhs, are loyal 
 to Britain. The Ghurkas are small, not unlike the 
 Japanese, and besides appearing as husky, also have 
 very Japanese features and are said to be fearless. 
 The Sikhs, on the other hand, are tall, of fine physique 
 and good looking and all wear full beard, it being 
 one of the tenets of their belief (as reformed Hindus) , 
 to not shave their faces. All over India, Burma, Cey- 
 lon, in fact, where Britain rules, there are Sikh po- 
 licemen. 
 
 March fourteenth, in Calcutta, but as we had seen 
 pretty much what there was of interest before the 
 trip to Darjeeling, and the weather being frightfully 
 sultry and hot, there was little disposition to move 
 around. There were in the zoo collection here a 
 number of cobras in two cages, in one of which one 
 of the attendants, a Hindu, went with bared feet and 
 but few clothes. Though the cobras were hidden 
 [ 100 ] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 under straw on the floor of the enclosure, the attend- 
 ant stepped in from an opening in the back with 
 seeming unconcern as to whether he stepped upon 
 one of the venomous reptiles or not. The latter, some 
 half dozen, at once appeared in the opposite side of 
 the enclosure, all of them with their heads up in the 
 air about twelve inches and with hood spread made 
 frequent darts at the Hindu. The latter continued, 
 fearless, and after we had had a good view of the 
 cobras, the Hindu came from the cage unharmed. 
 Next to the Russel, or tree viper, the cobra is one of 
 the most venomous of reptiles. The above Hindu, as 
 per arrangement, came to our hotel next day with a 
 rat, a cobra and a Russel viper, for the purpose of 
 showing us a rat and cobra fight; neither showing a 
 disposition to battle, however, the Hindu brought out 
 the viper. The latter, after some maneuvering on 
 the part of the Hindu, bit the rat, which in about ten 
 minutes was dead. The reptiles and rat had been 
 brought down in separate small bags, all carried in 
 another bag just large enough to hold the uncanny 
 collection. Taking the rat out first and tying one 
 end of a string around its body just ahead of its 
 hind legs, the Hindu wound the other end of the 
 string around his big toe. The cobra and viper were 
 then taken out in turn, the whole proceeding having 
 taken place upon the ground, the reptiles, as well 
 r 101 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 as the rat, the while trying to get away. The Hindu 
 would pick the reptiles up about midway of their 
 body and pull them back, meantime trying to get 
 the head and the rat together for the conflict. 
 
 The Hindu, a dried-up little fellow, though care- 
 ful when taking out and replacing the reptiles in 
 the bags, did not appear to regard the proceeding as 
 necessarily dangerous. Asked as to how it was the 
 things did not harm him^ as answer he pointed to a 
 charm which hung down over his dark bony breast. 
 Notwithstanding the charm, however, he was minus 
 a finger which had been promptly cut off, he said, 
 after having been bitten by a cobra. 
 
 The heaviest hail storm probably that I had ever 
 seen fell during our stay in Calcutta. 
 
 102 
 
CHAPTER X. 
 
 OF BURMA^ THE BURMESE AND MANDALAY. 
 
 On March sixteenth, we boarded the steamer Pali- 
 tana for the six hundred and sixty mile run to Han- 
 goon, Burma. It was one hundred and twenty miles 
 down the Hugli River to its mouth, then four hun- 
 dred and eighty miles through the delta of the bay 
 and Bay of Bengal and Gulf of Martaban to the Ran- 
 goon River, and finally sixty miles up the latter to 
 Rangoon. The fare for the trip was seventy-five 
 rupees or about twenty-five dollars. Before being 
 allowed to go to the ship's pier, all prospective pas- 
 sengers were required to look the health officer in the 
 face, have one's pulse felt, then proceed. The latter 
 was easy enough, provided one did not get too inter- 
 ested in the health officer, who was a young English 
 woman. The Calcutta days which had been excess- 
 ively hot ones during our visit was added to during 
 the last two hours, because for some reason the Pali- 
 tana was not ready at the appointed hour to let us 
 go on board. Meanwhile all the passengers, native 
 and foreign, were crowded together on the pier, with 
 the choice of standing out in the sun or in the pier 
 shed. The sun was intensely hot, while the atmos- 
 [103 1 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 phere inside the shed was both hot and disagreeable. 
 Here, then, was a most uncomfortable alternative. 
 When finally allowed to go aboard, there was an un- 
 necessarily indiscriminate scramble to get into the 
 ship's inside, or preferably onto her shaded prome- 
 nade decks. As to the poor steerage passengers, they 
 were mixed up like a lot of cattle, except that the 
 latter would have had only themselves to look after 
 in such a situation, whereas the steerage were all 
 more or less loaded down with their belongings. The 
 latter consisted, seemingly, of every conceivable some- 
 thing which the natives carry with them when trav- 
 eling, from infants in arms and children toddling 
 along, to bedding and pieces of household furniture. 
 Finally, when all were aboard and the baggage had 
 all been brought up, we steamed out into the Hugli 
 River, and Calcutta was soon left in the distance. 
 There were but about twenty first-cabin passengers, 
 and about seven hundred steerage, all natives. The 
 natives v/ere again thickly huddled together, squatted 
 about on their haunches in true Indian style, or other- 
 wise lounging about the steerage deck in oriental fash- 
 ion. They were well-behaved, however, and regularly, 
 at the proper time, a group of Mohammedans could 
 be seen at prayer, their eyes in the direction of Mecca. 
 The run to Rangoon was without noteworthy inci- 
 dent, while the weather conditions throughout the two 
 [104] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 and one-half days proved ideal, the Bay of Bengal the 
 while having been on its good behavior. 
 
 As the plague was prevalent in India at time of 
 our departure, the arrival in the harbor of Rangoon 
 was immediately followed by a visit from the Rangoon 
 health officers, who, in due course, gave the ship's 
 officers a clean bill of health and all were allowed to 
 go ashore. 
 
 Rangoon is an unattractive city of two hundred 
 and thirty thousand population, of whom seventy- 
 seven thousand are said to be Hindus, forty thousand 
 Mohammedans, nine thousand Christians, the balance 
 mainly Burmese, who are also principally Buddhists. 
 The city has many pagodas, of which the Shwe-Dagon 
 Pagoda is the principal one, and it is also the largest 
 in Burma. In the grounds of the Shwe-Dagon are 
 innumerable small pagoda shrines erected by the 
 wealthy Buddhist families for their personal use. 
 Most of these shrines, before which the devout wor- 
 ship, are of attractive design, decorated profusely 
 with carvings, both pleasing and hideous. The Shwe- 
 Dagon is an attractive spire of more or less conical 
 shape, with a ti or umbrella shape top, upon which, 
 as on most of the shrines, are hung all around the 
 umbrella edge small bells, which, when the wind blows, 
 send out a tiny ringing sound. The Shwe-Dagon 
 stands upon a platform one hundred and sixty-six 
 [ 105 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 feet above the street and rises to a height of three 
 hundred and seventy feet, the whole structure from 
 the pinnacle down being covered with carvings and 
 gold leaf, the latter contributed by the devout Bud- 
 dhists as offerings. There were also innumerable 
 statues of Buddha within the grounds, the latter, sur- 
 rounded by a stone wall, was, before Britain's dom- 
 ination of Burma, used as a fort. The approach to 
 the pagoda grounds are up covered stone steps, on 
 either side of which are stalls or bazaars, where vari- 
 ous kinds of cheap articles as well as flowers are sold 
 to the devotees on their way to the pagodas, as offer- 
 ings to some one of the gods. On each side of the 
 approach to the steps is an immense leogryph, which 
 stand as guards in all their hideousness. Outside 
 the city is the so-called Marriage Pagoda, where the 
 unmarried go to pray to Buddha that they soon may 
 enjoy wedlock. Most of the visitors to this pagoda 
 are girls, though the men, also, are not above such 
 visits. 
 
 The Burmese women, already on this short visit 
 to this country, impressed me as the most interesting 
 orientals of any seen on this tour. They have a dig- 
 nified, almost independent bearing, in their attractive 
 colored dress, which, with neatly done-up hair, makes 
 them look the picture of neatness. While they looked 
 attractive in Burma, we would scarce countenance all 
 [ 106 ] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 of the Burmese girls' habits, for instance, the long 
 thick cheroot which they smoke would hardly become 
 our girls. Then, too, with all their beauty, grace of 
 figure and carriage, we would prefer our girls con- 
 tinued the custom of wearing shoes in preference to 
 their going bare-footed as do the Burmese. Be it 
 said, however, to the credit of the latter, that their 
 feet are not unshapely, though perhaps covered with 
 dust when in the streets. The Burmese women also 
 are rather darker brunettes, I fear, than our girls 
 would care to be from choice. 
 
 In striking contrast to the women are the Bud- 
 dhist priests one seems to see everywhere. These 
 priests, besides appearing in a hideous unshapely 
 garb of an unattractive yellow color, are ignorant 
 looking, and invariably homely rascals. They go 
 about bareheaded with closely cropped hair. These 
 priests are said to be very numerous in Burma, in 
 seeming verification of which we saw a number of 
 Buddhist monasteries, where the young aspirants to 
 priesthood are trained. During our short visit of 
 about three days, Rangoon had two fires, one of which 
 destroyed forty-eight native huts. The other was in 
 a business block and during its progress, from the 
 excitement and number of people running in all di- 
 rections carrying household effects, one might have 
 thought the whole city was burning. 
 [107 1 
 
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 Rangoon was hot and dusty, and it is without 
 architectural attractiveness. A fair hotel, fronting 
 on the river (the Rangoon) could give us sleeping 
 accommodations in its annex only, and where comfort 
 was greatly at a discount. But we had become accus- 
 tomed to discomforts, of which we had already ex- 
 perienced so much, especially as to sleeping quarters. 
 The bazaar streets of Rangoon lacked the attractive- 
 ness of other oriental cities of equal size, and though 
 the city is important as a centre for wood carvings, 
 the bazaar stores had on sale chiefly cheap articles 
 for utility purposes, much of which looked, as it 
 probably was, of European manufacture. Germany 
 seems to lead in the production of cheaply made arti- 
 cles for oriental use. Elephants are put to good use 
 in Rangoon, and we saw them moving immense logs 
 and piling lumber, using both their trunks and tusks 
 in the work. It was with apparent ease that these 
 beasts would roll heavy timber or shove it along into 
 place. That our kodakist might photograph one of 
 these noble beasts to good advantage, the man in 
 charge was asked if the elephant might be induced to 
 pick up one of the logs and hold it while being pho- 
 tographed. Without hesitancy, the man upon his 
 back addressed the beast in an almost inaudible tone, 
 when the elephant turned around to where there was 
 a log about thirty feet long, forced his tusks under 
 [108 1 
 
] 
 
 I 
 
 
 (): 
 
 
 f!^/ 
 
 • < ^»^ 'fn^ Jk'-;* *^* j;J 
 
 
 BURMESE GIRL AND PAGODA SHRINES, 
 BURMA. 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 it, and with his trunk wound around it, raised the 
 immense weight from the ground with what appeared 
 no effort at all. 
 
 Both the plague and small-pox were prevalent in 
 Rangoon during our visit, in fact it was claimed the 
 city is never without them, and it is not to be won- 
 dered at from the filth on all sides and the congested 
 manner in which the poor live. The one redeeming 
 feature to the city's appearance is an attractive park, 
 where those who can afford it drive during the early 
 evening to obtain a breath of fresh and fragrant air, 
 for the park, besides other attractions in nature, has 
 many flowers. 
 
 Having seen Rangoon's few attractions, aside from 
 the innumerable pagodas, we boarded train at noon 
 on March twentieth for the three hundred and eighty- 
 four mile run north to Mandalay, and where we ar- 
 rived at six o'clock the next morning. The ride was 
 intensely dusty and hot during the day, though the 
 night was cool. The country traversed was largely 
 flat, with occasional short stretches of jungles, and 
 pagodas at frequent intervals, all along the line. 
 
 Burma has a great deal of hard wood timber, such 
 as teak. Mandalay, which has one hundred and 
 eighty-four thousand population, was very hot and 
 dusty. The plague was also raging there and the city 
 deserted by those who could get away. As in Ran- 
 [109 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 goon, the pagodas are largely the attraction, the prin- 
 cipal one, the so-called Knthodow or four hundred 
 and fifty pagoda, is made up of a group of four hun- 
 dred and fifty small pagodas which are unique, if not 
 beautiful, in design. They are shrines rather than 
 pagodas, in each of which is a stone tablet, on each 
 side of which is engraved : ' ' The holy books of Bud- 
 dhism," said to be the purest version of the com- 
 mandments. 
 
 King Thebaw's uncle, anxious that the holy books 
 should be recorded in enduring form, called together 
 the most learned priests for the purpose. The four 
 hundred and fifty pagodas are in an enclosure one- 
 half mile square, surrounded by a high wall, in the 
 centre of the group being a temple of the usual form. 
 
 There are many monasteries in Mandalay, prom- 
 inent ones being the Glass Monastery, and the Queen 's 
 Golden Monastery. Other pagodas are the Kyauk 
 Taw Gyi Pagoda, built over a monolithic image of 
 Buddha, the Arrakan Pagoda, rendered especially sa- 
 cred by the great sitting image of Gautama (Bud- 
 dha) there preserved. This image of brass, twelve 
 feet high, is said to have been brought over the hills 
 from Akyab in 1784. The image was originally set 
 (quoting the ancient legend) during the lifetime of 
 the great master. The utmost skill and persistent en- 
 ergy had failed in fitting the parts together until 
 
 [110 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 Buddha, perceiving from afar what was going on, 
 and ever full of pity, came to the spot himself and 
 embracing the image seven times so joined the frag- 
 ments that closest scrutiny can not detect the points 
 of junction. The shrine in which it stands is said to 
 be one of the most splendid in the country. 
 
 Inside the fort are the palace buildings, profuse in 
 wood carvings and gilt. The great bazaar was of 
 much interest, made up of a number of buildings not 
 unlike market houses in the States. There was on 
 sale in the various departments, grain, salt fish, veg- 
 etables, toys, umbrellas, lacquer work, silverware, jew- 
 elry, precious stones, silks, lace work, and numerous 
 other things. Most of the stalls were in charge of 
 the women, those selling the silks and lace jewelry 
 being again decidedly attractive young women. Of 
 a dignified oriental refinement and picturesque in 
 their highly colored, but tasty costumes, they con- 
 trasted strangely with the women seen in India. The 
 skirts of the Burmese are made close fitting, espe- 
 cially about the hips, disclosing apparent good figures. 
 Occasionally one would be seen before a small mirror 
 arranging her hair, so neatly done up on top of her 
 head. Nearly all occupied a reclining position in 
 their stalls, until a prospective customer came within 
 range when they would be quick to show their wares 
 and endeavor to interest the customer. The silks were 
 [ 111 ] 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 mostly high colored and cheap, though some of them 
 were pleasing to the eye. 
 
 Like all orientals the Burmese are great traders, 
 and if the purchaser volunteers an offer of two-thirds 
 or half the price asked he is very likely to get the arti- 
 cle in question. The Burma ruby mines are not a 
 great distance from Mandalay, hence there are a 
 number of ruby dealers in the city where one can buy 
 that precious stone already cut down, or have them 
 cut after purchase, or carry them away in the rough 
 as disposed, and in either case liable to get the worst 
 of a bargain. 
 
 The Burmese are said to be the Irish of the east, 
 being witty, and do not get out of the way of a scrap. 
 Burma has about ten million population, its principal 
 products being teak wood and rice and the rich ruby 
 mines near Mandalay. 
 
 Having spent two days in Mandalay and another 
 night on the cars, we arrived back in Rangoon on the 
 morning of March twenty-third. At one o'clock in 
 the afternoon we were aboard the steamer Pentakota 
 for the one thousand and eight knots voyage back 
 across the Bay of Bengal to India, at Madras. For a 
 hundred miles down the Rangoon River and through 
 the Gulf of Martaban, the water was muddy until 
 well along in the Bay of Bengal. Only about a dozen 
 first-class cabin passengers were aboard, but eleven 
 [ 112 1 
 
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 hundred natives in the steerage made up a large pas- 
 senger list. The natives in India and Burma seem to 
 be great travelers, but for which the railways and 
 steamships would have to go out of business. 
 
 Summer in the orient was now well upon us and 
 the temperature aboard the Pentakota during mid- 
 day registered from eighty-five degrees to ninety-eight 
 degrees in the shade during the voyage to Madras. 
 The trip was uneventful as the few first-cabin passen- 
 gers were uninteresting. Two American women, mis- 
 sionaries, evidently were prosperous, since they ap- 
 peared at dinner in different gowns each day. They 
 stated their missions in Burma were in a flourishing 
 condition and that besides running some kind of sup- 
 ply store, and being self-sustaining as a misson, they 
 had money to loan to the natives. The enterprise 
 and thrift of these missionaries, we understood, was 
 not looked on with favor by the natives, who feel 
 that the province of missionaries is to make religious 
 converts when possible, but not to come into com- 
 petition with native tradesmen in a business way. 
 
 113 
 
CHAPTER XI. 
 
 BACK IN SOUTHERN INDIA, AT MADRAS, AND VISIT TO 
 TRICHINOPOLI. 
 
 At six 'clock on the morning of the twenty-seventh 
 we steamed into the harbor of Madras, after a three 
 days' and eighteen hours' voyage, and after the usual 
 health inspection on board, we were allowed to go 
 ashore. We were now about one thousand miles south 
 of Calcutta. Madras, the third largest city in India, 
 has five hundred and nine thousand population, and 
 is scattered over so much territory that it is called the 
 city of magnificent distances. 
 
 As we were now in the extreme southern part of 
 the country, the weather was as hot as the natives 
 were dark skinned, — some of the latter being as black 
 as darkest Africa. The city was the site of the earli- 
 est East Indian Company settlement to which Queen 
 Elizabeth granted a charter after it was founded in 
 1629. The population is made up of more than four 
 hundred thousand Hindus, about fifty thousand Mo- 
 hammedans and about forty thousand Christians. 
 Madras is a city of importance, commercially, its ex- 
 ports consisting chiefly of hides, coffee, oil, seeds, cot- 
 ton, and cotton piece goods, the latter aggregating 
 [1141 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 five hundred lahhs {lakh is a hundred thousand ru- 
 pees) per annum. It imports seven hundred and fifty 
 lahhs — chiefly cotton piece goods, grain, metals and 
 kerosine oil. The manufacture of cigars is carried 
 on extensively, the tobacco being Indian or Philip- 
 pine, the latter called Manila tobacco. A fairly com- 
 fortable hotel and restaurant, conducted by an Italian, 
 and nicely located, left us no reason to complain of 
 our fare for the short visit of one day. The Marina, 
 or seashore drive, is one of the principal features of 
 the city. The Roman Catholic church of St. Thome 
 is said to be built over the remains of St. Thomas, a 
 few steps leading down to the tomb. 
 
 Early in the evening on the day of our arrival in 
 Madras we boarded train for the two hundred and 
 seventeen mile run by rail to Tan j ore and where we 
 arrived at five o'clock the next morning. The city, 
 which has sixty thousand population, like many others 
 in India, has but one or two attractions, the princi- 
 pal one here being the Great Pagoda or temple 
 (Hindu). This temple, built entirely of granite, has 
 many statues and carvings on pillars and elsewhere, 
 some of them massive and betray (as does the archi- 
 tecture more or less all through India) an artistic 
 taste greatly in contrast with the almost naked, un- 
 artistic-looking natives seen on all sides. The largest 
 Nandi (sacred bull) in India is here in one solid piece 
 F115 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 of black granite, being twelve feet ten inches high, 
 set upon a platform. As is customary in Hindu tem- 
 ples, the one in Tanjore is inside two enclosures. The 
 entrance to the outer enclosure is under a gopura 
 ninety feet high, thence along a passage one hundred 
 and seventy feet long to the second gopura of 
 smaller dimensions. From the latter, finally, the outer 
 enclosure to the temple is entered, being in extent 
 four hundred and fifteen by eight hundred feet and 
 surrounded by cloister chapels, each containing a large 
 lingam. While allowed to walk well around this en- 
 closure, entrance to the temple proper, or even to the 
 halls of approach, were forbidden us, these being too 
 sacred for any but Hindus. Several shrines inside 
 the temple grounds are of artistic merit, especially 
 that of the Shrine of Kartikkeya, the son of Shiva and 
 deity of war, who is looked upon by the Brahmans as 
 their especial protector. 
 
 Tanjore, at time of our visit, is said to have had 
 but two vehicles that could be used for driving about 
 and as both had been previously engaged we were 
 required to walk a mile or more in the dust, of a 
 reddish hue, and a hot sun, in a visit to the Palace 
 of the Princess of Tanjore, located inside the great 
 fort. The palace, a very large, unsightly building of 
 stone and plaster, contains in its library a collection 
 of eighteen thousand Sanscrit manuscript, of which 
 [116 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 eight thousand are written upon palm leaves. This 
 library is said to date from the end of the sixteenth 
 century. Between the excessive heat and red dust of 
 Tanjore, we all looked more or less like we had been 
 smeared over with red paint before we had finished 
 sight-seeing. It was now about ten o'clock, when, 
 aboard cars, we started for Trichinopoli, seventeen 
 miles away. Tanjore was the scene of the earliest 
 Protestant (German Lutheran) missionaries in India, 
 early in the eighteenth century. 
 
 Trichinopoli has about one hundred thousand pop- 
 ulation, including innumerable naked children. These 
 latter, however, like children the world over, appear, 
 in their play, to be oblivious of what the future has 
 in store for them, seemingly caring not whether they 
 ever will wear more than the string which some of the 
 boys have around their little black, though dirty,, 
 loins, while the naked little girls have what appeared 
 to be a silver ornament hung to a string, and all in- 
 tended as a fig leaf covering. Many of the children,, 
 from four or five years down, did not wear a shred 
 of anything. All through India, except in the north- 
 ern part, the same conditions prevail to a more or less 
 extent. 
 
 The several interesting sights in Trichinopoli are 
 the Rock, the Great Temple of Sri Rangam and the 
 Temple of Jambukeshwar. The Rock, which is a 
 r 117 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 short distance from the city, towers about two hun- 
 dred and thirty-five feet above the surrounding level, 
 and on top of which is a small temple. All day 
 devout Hindus are seen wending their w^ay up the two 
 hundred and ninety very steep steps, and then some 
 more to the pinnacle of the Rock, where the temple 
 is located. Steps lead up to the latter from a platform 
 surface upon the Rock and which is the nearest ap- 
 proach allowed any but Hindus. From the platform 
 is obtained a good view of the city and surrounding 
 country, the latter flat except for the mountains in 
 the distance, and several other rocks which stand out 
 boldly against a clear sky. The approach to the Rock 
 temple is by a covered passage on the sides of which 
 are stone elephants and pillars, the latter about eight- 
 een feet high. The pillars of granite have carved cap- 
 itals, representing the lion of the south, and various 
 figures of men and women. On the day of our visit 
 we saw men, women, boys and girls going up and 
 down the steps, some of the boys carrying up brick, 
 and the poor little fellows looked very much over- 
 worked. 
 
 The steps leading up into the Rock was the scene, 
 in 1849, of a frightful disaster. A vast throng had 
 assembled to worship the god Ganesh, here called 
 Pilliar, or The Son. A panic arose and in the crush 
 upon the steep two hundred and thirty-five steps five 
 [118] 
 
DOINa OVER. 
 
 hundred people are said to have been killed. Trich- 
 inopoli was the scene, also, of British and French 
 conquest. The latter in a night attack upon the fort, 
 in 1753, having entered the outer line of fortifications, 
 came unsuspectingly upon a pit thirty feet deep into 
 which many of the French soldiers fell, either losing 
 their lives in the fall or at the hands of the natives, 
 by whom they were taken prisoners. Warfare in 
 those days was no more play than it is in these mod- 
 ern times of man-killing machine armament. 
 
 The real attraction of Trichinopoli is the Great 
 Temple of Sri Rangam, one of the largest in India, 
 the outer enclosure to which is two thousand five hun- 
 dred by two thousand nine hundred and ninety feet. 
 The entrance is through a gateway forty-eight feet 
 high, which appears to have been built as the base of 
 a great gopura. The sides of the passage are lined 
 with pilasters, ornamented, the passage being about 
 one hundred feet long and the inner height about 
 forty feet. Great manoliths have been used as up- 
 rights in the construction, some of them over forty 
 feet high. The stones upon the roof, laid horizontally, 
 are also huge, the largest about thirty feet long, four 
 and one-half feet broad and eight feet thick. How 
 these immense stones were placed in their high posi- 
 tion is a mystery. A second enclosure, about twenty 
 feet high, surrounds the dwellings of the Brahmans 
 [119 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 in the service of the temple. As elsewhere, so here, 
 admittance to the second enclosure where the temple 
 is located is forbidden all but Brahmans. In the court 
 around the inner enclosure amongst other attractions 
 is the so-called Hall of One Thousand Pillars. The 
 latter are of granite, about eighteen feet high, with 
 carvings of men upon rearing horses, spearing tigers, 
 the horses' feet supported by the shields of men on 
 foot beside them. While it is said no longer to con- 
 tain a thousand pillars, the Hall has enough of them 
 left to keep one counting a long time if bent upon 
 knowing how many still remain. The Temple of 
 Jambukeshwar is much smaller than that of Sri Ean- 
 gam, and though it has three courts is unattractive 
 and apparently neglected. Tired almost beyond the 
 interesting point over Hindu temples, after having 
 seen them all through India, during our travels of 
 forty-five days, we were glad to again enter the train 
 for the run of ninety-six miles to Madura, where we 
 arrived early on the next morning, March twenty- 
 ninth. 
 
 This city has a population of one hundred and six 
 thousand, and though tired of seeing Hindu temples, 
 the Great Temple of Madura awakened in me the live- 
 liest interest. It is the largest, and likely the most 
 gorgeous in architecture, of any Hindu temple in 
 India, and like so many others is difficult of detailed 
 [120] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 description. The Great Temple enclosures have nine 
 gQpuras, the largest being one hundred and fifty- 
 two feet high. Though built early in the seventeenth 
 century, the building was being added to and eu' 
 larged at the time of our visit. Built entirely of gran- 
 ite, innumerable pillars of monolithic size carved with 
 many figures are seen on all sides. Because of excep- 
 tional privilege, the traveler is here allowed to visit 
 all of the outer courts and corridors up to the doors 
 of the two adyta (secret apartments of a temple). 
 Many shrines were seen, with worshipers offering 
 ghi (clarified butter made into a kind of oil), which 
 seemed to be smeared all around the shrines. The 
 dark corridors, leading around through the temple, 
 obscured a proper view or entirely hid many carvings 
 of undoubted merit. So vast seemed the temple that 
 days might be consumed in a thorough scrutiny of 
 its make-up. At times the place had a weird appear- 
 ance, for in some of the dark places only a faint 
 flickering light from an oil lamp at some one or 
 other of the shrines, made it just possible to find 
 one's way around. A goodly number of deities are 
 included with the other decorations. The temple con- 
 sists of two parts, one to Minakshi, the fish-eyed god- 
 dess, the consort of Shiva, the other to Shiva. The 
 entrance to the temple is through the gate of Minak- 
 shi 's Temple, along a corridor thirty feet long, called 
 [121] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 the Hall of Eight Lakshmis, from eight statues of 
 that goddess which form the supports of the roof on 
 either side, under which are dealers whose wares are 
 largely made up of offerings to the gods and which 
 worshipers buy on their way to the temple. On the 
 right of the gateway is an image of Subrahmanya or 
 Kartekkeya, the Hindu Mars. On the left is an image 
 of Ganesh (the god of intelligence, part man with the 
 head of an elephant). Inside the temple is a tank or 
 pool, called the Tank of the Golden Lilies, which is a 
 pool of stagnant water, but holy from the Hindu 
 point of view. Around the tank runs an arcade on the 
 walls of which are crude paintings of the most famous 
 pagodas of India. On one side is the belfry, with, a 
 bell of fine tone and of American manufacture. Too 
 numerous to mention are the decorations and carvings 
 of deities, but all of which, in solid granite, are very 
 meritorious in workmanship. 
 
 As we proceeded on our visit we came upon the 
 Hall of One Thousand Pillars. Many of the latter 
 are hidden from view, the space between them hav- 
 ing been bricked up to form graneries for the temple. 
 There are said, however, to be nine hundred and 
 ninety-seven pillars, by actual count, and all are elab- 
 orately and marvelously carved. The founder of the 
 temple is here represented sitting gracefully upon a 
 rearing horse, behind him are a number of male and 
 [122 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 female deities dancing, and in all making up an at- 
 tractive granite picture. 
 
 Next in importance of the sights in Madura is the 
 New Gallery, known as Tirumala's Choultry (a Hindu 
 inn) and built (1625 to 1645) by him for the presid- 
 ing deity of the place, Sundareshwar (Shiva) who, 
 according to Hindu belief, paid him (Tirumala) a 
 ten days' visit yearly. The hall, three hundred and 
 thirty-three by one hundred and five feet, has four 
 rows of pillars supporting a flat roof. A statue of 
 Tirumala has a canopy over it with several figures at 
 his back, one of them his wife, the Princess of Tan- 
 jore. Illustrative of the Hindu idea of things, there 
 is here a singular group representing one of the no- 
 bles shooting a wild boar and sows, when, the legend 
 says, Shiva, with pity for the litter of little pigs, took 
 them up in his arms, and assuming the shape of a 
 sow, suckled them. 
 
 Tirumala's Choultry, the New Gallery, is said to 
 have cost about five million dollars. The visit to 
 Madura was completed by a visit to the Palace of 
 Tirumala Nayak (now used for public offices), an 
 attractive building, though in its restoration made to 
 look very modern in appearance. An open court in 
 the centre, with plants and flowers, adds to the at- 
 tractiveness of the place. Though the immense col- 
 umns supporting the roof are said to be rough gran- 
 [123 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 ite, they have been covered with plaster. On one side 
 of the court stands the Celestial Pavilion, formerly 
 the throne room of the palace, then there is an ar- 
 caded octagon covered by a dome sixty feet in diame- 
 ter and seventy-five feet high. On the other side is the 
 Hall, corresponding with the Diwan-i-Khas and 
 Diwan-i-Am of Mohammedan palaces, the only one 
 of its kind of Hindu origin that we had seen in India. 
 The Hall is one hundred and twenty-five feet long, 
 sixty-five feet wide, and its height to the centre of 
 the roof is seventy feet, and of Gothic style. The pal- 
 ace is said to be one of the finest public buildings in 
 India. 
 
 Our visit of sight-seeing in India ended here and 
 at noon, March twenty-ninth, when, again boarding 
 the cars, we started for the hundred mile run for 
 Tuticorin, our jumping off place at the most extreme 
 southern point of India. 
 
 124 
 
CHAPTER XII. 
 
 A RESUME OF THE TRIP THROUGH INDIA. 
 
 At four o'clock, soon after our arrival in Tuti- 
 corin, we went aboard ship for the one hundred and 
 ten mile trip across the Gulf of Manar to Colombo, 
 Ceylon, a one night's voyage. 
 
 Tuticorin is a seaport city of no special interest. 
 A coincidence of the run through the place was the 
 chance meeting of an American, whose wife I had 
 met in previous years. At the request of a niece, at 
 home, I had made several efforts, though unsuccess- 
 ful, to locate the parties while in Bombay, at which 
 place they resided. I had thus met the husband in 
 the last moments of my visit in India instead of at 
 entry into the country, as had been hoped for. A 
 good deal more time might well, and should have 
 been spent in some of the cities visited in India, and 
 to visit other points of interest which we had not; 
 as it was, however, my interest throughout, except for 
 occasional flickerings, was keyed up to a high pitch. 
 There was a constantly varying change of things and 
 scenes, to keep up the liveliest interest, even in antici- 
 pation of the sights as they followed in order. The 
 frequent short side trips away from the railways al- 
 [125 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 ways assured new experiences. "We had visited twenty- 
 eight cities, besides a number of out of the way places, 
 such as the Khyber Pass, Hampi, and others, and 
 had traveled five thousand five hundred miles by rail 
 in India, besides about one hundred miles in native 
 vehicles of various kinds to suburban and out of the 
 way places. Forty-five days were consumed, begin- 
 ning February second to March sixteenth, Bombay to 
 Calcutta, and again March twenty-seventh to twenty- 
 ninth, Madras to Tuticorin. The days between March 
 sixteenth and twenty-seventh had. been taken up in 
 the trip to and from Burma back to India at Madras. 
 
 As a resume of my observations of the peoples and 
 habits of India, the women, for instance, of modest 
 behavior, count for infinitely worse than nothing. For 
 neither Hindu nor Mohammedan woman is there any 
 heavenly hereafter from the Hindu or Mohamme- 
 dan point of view. No work is too mean for the 
 Hindu woman, who is required, besides other menial 
 labor, to gather the manure from the streets and else- 
 where, which is mixed with some little straw into 
 cakes and then peddled by them about the streets 
 for fuel. This applies, of course, to the poor classes. 
 The cast feature, with the Hindus and the Mohamme- 
 dan fanaticism, keeps their women in the background 
 and from association or attention of any kind from 
 the foreigner. Both Hindu and Mohammedan fallen 
 [126 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 women would be shunned by native men, if not 
 killed, for any familiarity with foreigners. 
 
 The Parsee women seem to be the only ones of 
 the natives who are allowed the freedom of appearing 
 upon the streets unaccompanied, though even these, 
 when with their husbands, appear to keep somewhat 
 behind him when walking. While the Hindu religion 
 is said to have much of licentiousness connected with 
 it, their women are well behaved to all outward ap- 
 pearances. The women in India are the savings banks 
 of the family, in that whatever money (in coin) can 
 be saved is pounded into jewelry, either for finger, 
 ear, nose or toe rings, bracelets or anklets. In conse. 
 quence all through India the women and even young 
 girls are se^n thus decorated. Occasionally one of the 
 wealthier girls would be seen with a diamond sol- 
 itaire as a nose ring. Many of the women are of good 
 figures, and pleasing, even handsome, features, while 
 many of the men, even of the poorer classes, are of 
 good physique and features as well as of dignified car- 
 riage. The country is full of hahoos (natives with 
 English education for clerkships) and as there are 
 not enough positions to go around, many a 5a6oo is 
 a useless ornament, for once they have a little learning 
 they will no longer do ordinary work. Many a native 
 father economizes and stints himself and family that 
 he may educate his boy or boys, the latter thereafter 
 [127] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 being of little or no use either to themselves or the 
 parents. The laundering of India is a crude institu- 
 tion, the clothes being simply beaten down on rocks 
 in some stream, resulting disastrously, especially to 
 the fine clothes of foreigners. Needless to say the 
 process does not result in very clean linen, notwith- 
 standing the hard beating, for little or no soap is used. 
 Cleanliness is not amongst the virtues of the inhab- 
 itants. Thousands of the natives probably never saw 
 a bed or know what they are like, and thousands of 
 the poor fellows sleep on the sidewalks around rail- 
 way stations, simply wrapping themselves in their 
 dirty blanket, or covering of whatever kind, even to 
 covering their heads completely, and thus huddled, go 
 to sleep. Such sleepers can be seen beginning with 
 Bombay until coming out at Calcutta, or other port 
 cities. The natives are great travelers in their own 
 country, and every passenger train is largely made 
 up of third-class coaches, with only one or two com- 
 bination first- and second-class coaches. At every sta- 
 tion of any consequence there seemed to be hordes of 
 natives getting on and off the cars, and while they 
 are running to and fro trying to get into some one of 
 the compartments the noise they make sometimes sug- 
 gests the breaking loose of bedlam. During our night 
 rides in sleepers, the noise of the natives did not add 
 to our ofttimes already perturbed temper, because 
 [128 1 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 the trips usually began at a late hour, or we were to 
 arrive at our destination at a very early hour, hence 
 only a few hours for sleep. Invariably, too, if we 
 stopped at a station where meals were served, it mat- 
 tered not, any hour between five and seven o'clock in 
 the morning, or later, if we were asleep one of the 
 attendants would pound on our compartment door 
 until it was opened, when we were asked if we desired 
 cJiota hazrai (tea and toast). Because of the latter 
 and general custom in India, whether on the cars or 
 in hotels, we ate about five times each day during 
 the entire trip. Except when in out of the way places 
 and sometimes on the trains, when required to resort 
 to our tiffin basket for canned eatables, the meals 
 throughout India, in the railway stations or hotels, 
 were invariably the same, being prepared for the 
 English taste — roast beef and mutton, boiled cabbage 
 and potatoes, rice currie, chicken and soup. All the 
 beef and mutton for the orient, especially that dom- 
 inated by Britain, comes from Australia and is none 
 too tender. That we were tired of the food long be- 
 fore we finished India can well be imagined. As at 
 home, when traveling, one meets some strange people. 
 In Bombay, I met, at the hotel, a gruff American who 
 was damning everything and everybody in India, be- 
 cause he did not find all the conveniences to which 
 he believed himself entitled. That individual would 
 9 r 129 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 have changed all the customs, the weather, and every- 
 thing in India if his cursing could have brought it 
 about. The English appear to be the best travelers, 
 as I fear the Americans to be the poorest; the latter 
 are too often noisy, ill-behaved, and feel that because 
 they have the price they should be given the impos- 
 sible, and all other privileges. 
 
 Another character was an American, a New Yorker, 
 who was almost deaf, in very delicate health, and 
 traveling alone, except for what seemed to be a dozen 
 small bundles, including an ordinary bandbox. All 
 these, of course, had to be handled over and over 
 again in his round. However, he was a very nice fel- 
 low and though a hardship to carry on conversation 
 with, because of his defective hearing, had re- 
 deeming qualities in that he was much traveled, well 
 read, and a gentleman. We met him several times 
 in India and also had him as a fellow passenger on 
 board the ship, Colombo to Singapore, and again to 
 Java. Going into the harbor at Batavia, Java, I 
 missed him for some little time and upon investigation 
 found him in his room, the poor fellow being doubled 
 up in bed, because some Dutch sausage he had eaten at 
 dinner seemed bent on taking up a permanent resi- 
 dence in his stomach. Calling the doctor of our party, 
 he, with the aid of some ejective, soon had the unwel- 
 come, as well, perhaps, as unwholesome, sausage in- 
 [130] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 truder turned out. We saw no more of the fellow 
 after we had gone ashore at Batavia, and I have often 
 wondered whether he ever reached his New York 
 home alive. 
 
 Another queer character, also a New Yorker, an 
 elderly one, whom we first met aboard the ship, Co- 
 lombo to Singapore, and several times thereafter, 
 finally in Yokohama. On my first meeting the fellow 
 he wished to know something of our trip through 
 India, and having told him, amongst others, of our 
 visit to the Khyber Pass, he expressed great interest 
 therein. That he was greatly interested in the Pass 
 is evidenced by his prompt promise to himself that he 
 would some day visit it, and each time thereafter when 
 we met, he would say, ' ' I certainly will some day visit 
 that Kybeer Pass (Khyber Pass) you were telling me 
 of." At Yokohama he happened to come into the 
 hotel to register while we were at the desk, and loudly 
 called to the clerk that he wanted a good room for 
 he was one of the regular customers. He had been: 
 there once before, some eighteen years ago. As the 
 world is full of queer people, a proportionate number 
 of them are necessarily met with in traveling. 
 
 A certain Lady W , an English woman, showed 
 
 a good deal of preference for one of our party, and of 
 which she made no secret ; the fact is our friend was 
 good company, a discovery which Lady W was 
 
 ri3ii 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 not long in making. Like most English people, she 
 had done considerable traveling, and referred to the 
 fact that she had grown-up children. 
 
 Referring again to our servant guide in India, Sam 
 was not only a character, but a rascal as well, with 
 all of his claimed twenty-two years' guide record. 
 He seemed to know every place in India, and to be 
 familiar with all of the claimed seventy different 
 races, dialects and languages wherever we traveled. 
 On occasions, if not interfered with, he would beat 
 the poor coolies very roughly in order to show his 
 authority. As in other oriental countries, the guide 
 in India gets a rake-off on all purchases of the tour- 
 ist, and Sam got his on everything from a cup of tea 
 and toast up. We discovered, finally, the rascal had 
 even charged us a profit on his outlay of money to 
 pay coolie hire, and from his frequent quarrels with 
 the poor fellows he probably also charged them a com- 
 mission. Their remonstrance was sufficient reason 
 for Sam to treat them roughly. A part of Sam's 
 duty was to awaken us in time to leave the train in 
 •our night rides by rail. On several occasions, because 
 Sam was asleep, we narrowly missed being carried 
 past our destination, which was only averted by one 
 or the other of our party awakening by chance. On 
 one occasion Sam called us two hours ahead of time 
 (about two o'clock in the morning), and when his at- 
 ri32 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 tention was called to the fact innocently remarked 
 that we would now have ample time in which to get 
 ready. At another time when he failed to call ns, we 
 were entering the station of one of our stop-overs, 
 when one of our party happened to awaken. The hur- 
 ried and indiscriminate toilet which we made on that 
 occasion, and the packing up of our bedding to avoid 
 being carried past, would have made an interesting 
 picture for a cinometograph. Needless to say Sam 
 received a volley of reprimands for his neglect in 
 this instance. 
 
 A party of three or four traveling together in India 
 can invariably get a compartment to themselves, if 
 reservation is asked for of the station master in ad- 
 vance. An occurrence, as the result of our wiring 
 ahead on the first trip out from Bombay, proved help- 
 ful all through India — one of our party having wired 
 ahead for reservation for our party added his profes- 
 sional title to his signature. Later, upon the arrival 
 of the train, which was to take us further on our 
 trip, the compartment assigned us had the usual card 
 
 reservation on it, but made out to Major E and 
 
 party. Our friend's professional title had thus been 
 changed to a military one. From our use a few times, 
 immediately thereafter, of the new title out of devil- 
 try, habit soon followed and later it became natural 
 when ordering railway compartment reservations, 
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DOING OVER. 
 
 The title had proven a guarantee of best attention to 
 onr party. It was only when onr visit to India was 
 nearly completed that we learned there were a number 
 
 of Major E 's in the service there, hence possibly 
 
 the attention shown us. 
 
 However, we found those connected with the rail- 
 way service in India, whether Englishmen or natives, 
 to be invariably courteous in every respect, and in 
 great contrast with so many of the railway employes 
 at home. 
 
 The money of the country is made up as follows: 
 Twelve cowrie shells, one pie; twelve pies, one anna; 
 sixteen annas, one rupee. The value of a rupee is 
 equal to about thirty-three cents in our money, while 
 the pie would be worth about one-sixth of our penny. 
 The cowrie shell has no intrinsic value, except that 
 because of the extreme poverty in India a purchasing 
 power is given them for the very poor, to whom the 
 spending of a pie or anna would be in the nature of 
 extravagance. The pies and annas are of copper, 
 while the rupee is silver. There is an Indian gold 
 coin, the mohur, of the value of about sixteen rupees, 
 and though no longer in circulation is used when it 
 can be bought as a souvenir, and commands a pre- 
 mium because of its scarcity. Paper money is issued 
 in denominations from five rupees up, and suffers a 
 discount outside the district where issued. The gold 
 [134] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 coin in use is the English pound and half pound. Of 
 the Aboriginese we saw but few, and they were as pic- 
 turesque in dress and jewels as few in numbers. They 
 are said to be more numerous in southern than north- 
 ern India, from which point they had been driven 
 southward in centuries past. Not unlike the gypsies 
 of Europe, those of India prefer the mountainous 
 country for their homes. 
 
 The punkah is one of the great inventions of the 
 country and takes the place of the electric fan in 
 modern countries. But for the punkah many days 
 and nights would be unbearably hot, to say nothing of 
 its usefulness over a dining room table to keep flies 
 from one 's diet. The chewing of the betel nut by na- 
 tive men and women is equally filthy or perhaps more 
 so, than the tobacco chewing in America. Made of 
 the betel leaf with the nut ground up, and mixed with 
 a small quantity of shell lime, it discolors the mouth 
 and teeth a dark red, the expectorant being of the 
 same color. India has a number of flower-bearing 
 trees, one a beautiful wax-like flower v/ith sweet aroma 
 is frequently met with. An acacia tree with a light 
 red flower in greatest profusion is very attractive. 
 The trip through India is more or less of necessity 
 a hurried one because of the absence of hotel accom- 
 modations in most places. Hence, under the circum- 
 stances, once the sights in a place have been seen, 
 [135] 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 where no sleeping accommodations were to be had 
 except in the railway stations or a bungalow, the dis- 
 position was to hurry on to the next place, hopeful 
 for better comforts. Ofttimes, however, we went from 
 poor accommodations to worse. Our railway journeys 
 were timed for night runs whenever possible, because 
 of the otherwise greater discomforts. 
 
 The spelling and pronunciation of names in India 
 is by far not the least of the many problems of that 
 interesting country, and yet, if spelled in any one of 
 several ways to sound as pronounced there, one is 
 very likely to have spelled them correctly. Many of 
 the names of places are officially spelled in several 
 different ways. 
 
 136 1 
 
CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 THE ISLAND OF CEYLON AND THE CITIES OF COLOMBO 
 AND KANDY. 
 
 On the morning of March thirtieth at eight o'clock, 
 we steamed into the harbor of Colombo, Ceylon, 
 after a fifteen hours' trip across the Gulf of Manar, 
 from Tuticorin. 
 
 India was now a pleasant, interesting recollection. 
 The weather, that universal condition of comfort or 
 discomfort, was, at time of our visit to Colombo and 
 Ceylon, about as unfriendly as could be. Hot, humid 
 and rainy, but we were now within five degrees of the 
 equator, hence the best must be made of the condi- 
 tions. Exertion was not necessary to produce dis- 
 comforting perspiration. Our duck suits were now 
 more needed than in India to minimize the discom- 
 fiture and for every short distance one takes a jin- 
 rikisha, which are very numerous in Colombo. The 
 one hundred and fifty-six thousand population of this 
 city is made up of one thousand two hundred Euro- 
 peans, twenty thousand Cingalese, many Moors and 
 Tamils, some Hindus, and others. The Cingalese (also 
 spelled Cinhalese) men are clearly distinguishable by 
 [137 1 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 the large tortoise shell comb worn upon top of their 
 heads. 
 
 The city has the appearance of thrift; the build- 
 ings, though of European architecture, are not start- 
 ling in either beauty or elegance. There are a larger 
 number of fairly good hotels than in Bombay or Cal- 
 cutta. The Galle Face Hotel, well away from the 
 centre of the city and located on the beach, is the 
 most modern and perhaps the most popular. Making 
 use of two letters of introduction which I had on res- 
 idents here, our party was dined at The Club, made 
 up of Englishmen. 
 
 The cost of living in Colombo is high. The city is 
 important as a port from which is shipped the one 
 hundred and fifty million pounds of tea raised on the 
 island, and in addition some coffee, many cocoanuts, 
 cardamoms (of which ten thousand acres are under 
 cultivation), cinnamon, rubber, plumbago and vari- 
 ous other things. As the pearl oyster beds are not 
 far away, great numbers of pearls are sold here, be- 
 sides sapphires (from Ceylon mines) and other pre- 
 cious stones. The precious stone and pearl trade 
 seems to be largely in the hands of the Mohammedans 
 (mostly Moors). The curios on sale come mainly 
 from Japan and Germany, As in India, Colombo and 
 Ceylon are full of crows. In the hotel Galle Face a 
 printed notice posted in all the rooms warns the 
 
 r 138 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 guests against leaving small jewelry exposed in the 
 rooms lest they be carried away by the crows. The 
 latter are perched on trees close to the hotel and do 
 not hesitate to fly into one's room, especially if any 
 eatables are left there, and if one leaves the room 
 but for a single moment and returns, he is almost 
 sure to disturb a thieving crow. 
 
 Colombo has no sights of especial interest, except 
 for several small quaint Hindu temples, though a 
 drive for some three or four miles along which the 
 trees are mainly cocoanut proved a pleasant one. The 
 natives, as seen along this drive, do not appear to en- 
 joy any different comfort or luxuries than do the 
 same classes in India or Burma. However, we saw no 
 distressing sights, and the Ceylonese seemed happy, 
 as they likely are indolent. The latter surely exists 
 if the temperature has any influence. 
 
 On April second, we left Colombo for Kandy, 
 seventy-eight miles up country, and two thousand feet 
 above the sea. Kandy, which has twenty thousand 
 people, is beautifully situated, and is one of the two 
 popular mountain resorts for the Colomboans. A 
 very picturesque lake with its surrounding scenery, 
 and the temperature, are the inviting features of the 
 place, and is ideal for a short visit for tourists. The 
 country between here and Colombo is a heavily wooded 
 jungle, luxuriant with green foliage. 
 [139] 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 The jungles of Ceylon are said to contain a great 
 many elephants. Many of these beasts are shipped to 
 the outer world. The inhabitants of Ceylon, about 
 three million five hundred thousand, are said to be 
 largely Buddhists. 
 
 In a small temple in Kandy, the Buddhists claim 
 to have one of Buddha 's teeth, and which is, of course, 
 greatly cherished. The claim is made that the temple 
 did once contain a tooth of Buddha, but that at the 
 time of a Portuguese conquest of the place, they (the 
 Portuguese) carried the tooth away. The tooth that 
 is now in the Kandy temple is claimed to be made of 
 ivory and about an inch in length. A botanical gar- 
 den here has a great collection of tropical plants and 
 trees, including cloves, nutmeg, cinnamon and allspice. 
 Some of the plants and trees were brought from other 
 parts of the world, notably South America. From 
 Kandy, after a two days' visit, we went to Newara 
 Eliya, six thousand feet up on the mountain and 
 about seventy-five miles from Kandy. The tempera- 
 ture, though much lower than at Colombo, was never- 
 theless more or less sultry as at Kandy. Rain fell the 
 most of the time of our two days' visit. It is claimed 
 that rain falls two hundred and twenty-seven days 
 out of the year in Newara Eliya. Its situation, while 
 not so picturesque as Kandy, is beautiful. About 
 twelve miles away is where some five thousand Boer 
 [140 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 prisoners had been brought. An interesting sight 
 here is a tea plantation and factory. The plantation 
 was full of tea pickers, girls and women. Only the 
 small young tea sprouts are taken, and have four 
 leaves usually, hence four grades of tea. The young- 
 est of the leaves, when blended wdth that next to it, 
 makes the highest grade tea. The process of prepar- 
 ing the tea for market takes from three days to a 
 week, depending upon the weather conditions. Dry 
 weather is best. The leaves when first picked are al- 
 lowed to wilt, then are ground for the purpose of curl- 
 ing them; thereafter the small leaves are separated 
 from the larger through a sieve, followed by a short 
 fermenting period, then a drying process by artifi- 
 cial heat at a temperature of two hundred degrees, 
 and finally again separated and packed for the mar- 
 ket. The best quality is sold in Ceylon for about 
 thirty cents (gold) per pound. Tea is grown in the 
 hills only, and at Newara Eliya, six thousand feet up. 
 The highest range of mountains in Ceylon, as I un- 
 derstand it, are eight thousand five hundred feet. 
 
 There is another botanical garden here which is 
 extensive and beautiful. In the collection of flowers 
 was included the American beauty rose. Here, also, 
 I saw the camphor tree for the first time, as well as 
 the fern tree, the latter growing to a height of twenty 
 to thirty feet. The fern tree is said to grow in but 
 [ 141 ] 
 
DOING OVEK. 
 
 few parts of the world. About two days were spent 
 in Newara Eliya, when we returned to Colombo. 
 
 The railways in Ceylon are good, comparing with 
 the best seen in India, both as to finish and comfort. 
 The island of Ceylon has about twenty-five thousand 
 square miles, is four hundred miles long by three hun- 
 dred miles at its greatest width. Luxuriant foliage 
 is seen on all sides. The inhabitants are not of start- 
 ling interest and the women unattractive from my 
 observation. 
 
 The currency of the island is the rupee, not divided 
 into annas, as in India, but into cents, one hundred 
 of the latter to one rupee. 
 
 Both the Portuguese and Dutch, in turn, have in 
 the past made conquests of Ceylon. A likely result 
 of the early Portuguese occupation is the large Roman 
 Catholic population in Colombo. 
 
 After another day spent in Colombo on our re- 
 turn from Newara Eliya, on April eighth, at nine 
 o'clock in the morning, we went on board the steamer 
 Delhi, bidding Colombo and Ceylon a rather willing 
 farewell, largely owing to the oppressive weather con- 
 ditions. 
 
 While we saw little of thrilling interest in our visit, 
 the island is said to have some old Hindu and Bud- 
 dhist temples well worth the time of looking up. 
 These attractions are in out of way places, which 
 [142 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 would require a more extended visit to Ceylon than 
 our ten days. A very remarkable Buddhist temple 
 at Matale is cut into solid rock. At Elahera are the 
 head works of an ancient irrigation system of colos- 
 sal dimensions. Then at Dambool there is a cave 
 temple, and at Sigiri a rock fortress said to be almost 
 impregnable. At Kalawewa is the Great Tank (res- 
 ervoir) built about 460 A. D., with a contour of forty 
 miles. This tank supplies water for a hundred vil- 
 lages in its course to Anuradhpura, fifty miles away. 
 Near the Great Tank is an enormous rock-cut stand- 
 ing statue of Buddha, forty feet high. The statue is 
 said to stand almost free from the rock from which 
 it is carved, the right arm being raised and free from 
 the body. The greatest interest in the island is at 
 Anuradhpura, the once capital of Ceylon, beginning 
 in the fifth century B. C, though now little less than 
 a mass of ruins, as the result of early Tamil invasions 
 and centuries of decay. The ruins include many da- 
 gobas (pagoda), a bell shaped construction over some 
 relic of Buddha or a disciple. As in Burma these 
 dagobas are solid surmounted by a cubical structure, 
 which in turn is topped by a lofty spire. These da- 
 gobas date back to within several centuries of Bud- 
 dha's time. Buddhist missionaries came early to Cey- 
 lon, one of them, Mihintale by name, is said to have 
 occupied the cell now known as Mihindo's Bed, a 
 [143] 
 
DOINd OVER. 
 
 stone couch hewn into rock. Innumerable monastic 
 buildings are said to be scattered over the island, the 
 most remarkable of which, called the Brozen Palace 
 or monastery, built about 400 A. D., is said to contain 
 one thousand six hundred stone pillars. Pocunas 
 (bathing tanks, or tanks for the supply of drinking 
 water) are said to be countless. A sacred Pipal or 
 Bo tree is also one of the attractions, and said to have 
 been originally brought from Buddh Gaya. Claimed 
 to have been planted two hundred and forty-five years 
 B. C, only a fragment now remains, however it has 
 been uninterruptedly watched over all these centuries 
 by Buddhist guardians. 
 Curtain down on Ceylon. 
 
 [144 
 
CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 SEVEN DAYS ABOARD SHIP TO JAVA, THENCE TO SINGA- 
 PORE. 
 
 The voyage from Colombo (beginning April eighth) 
 to Singapore, through the Indian Ocean and Malacca 
 Strait, one thousand six hundred and seventy-five 
 knots, was without unusual incident. It began to 
 dawn on me, however, that I rather enjoyed life 
 aboard ship, the lazy swaying motion of the vessel, 
 the beauties of sky and water, the sunsets, the cloud 
 effects, an occasional full moon and the starry skies. 
 Our steamer for this voyage was the Delhi, whose gen- 
 eral appointments were not overly comfortable for a 
 hot climate, especially the inner staterooms. The 
 seventy-eight first-cabin passengers were nearly all 
 English. An American minister, his wife and sister- 
 in-law proved agreeable traveling companions, the 
 former very fond of sports and not at all reserved in 
 disposition, took active part in all the deck games. The 
 latter arranged for prizes, gave the lookers-on some 
 good amusement, and the participants in the sport 
 some pretty warm exercise. 
 
 The weather continued hot and but little exercise 
 was needed to bring on discomforting conditions. It 
 
 10 r 145 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 was on this voyage that Lady W showed the pref- 
 erence for one of our party and referred to in my 
 resume of India. 
 
 The third day out from Colombo, we passed the 
 northern end of the Island of Sumatra, so close that 
 the luxuriant vegetation could be made out through 
 our field glasses. Each day of our tour eastward, the 
 ship's clock continued to be set ahead from ten or 
 fifteen to thirty or forty minutes, depending upon the 
 distance voyaged. 
 
 On the fourth day out from Colombo, we anchored 
 in the bay at Penang on the Malay Peninsula and 
 where we made a short stop, long enough for a four 
 hours ' visit in the city. The botanical garden was the 
 objective point of interest for the most of us, and 
 while beautifully located, and with a good collection 
 of plants and flowers, the weather was much too hot 
 for exertion. Besides the natives, many Chinese are 
 included in the population of the place. The city 
 has a number of very good modern public buildings. 
 No one seems to think of walking for even short dis- 
 tances, and no need for it, since there are innumerable 
 jinrikishas on all sides, with willing coolies to pull 
 you around the place. Though the poor fellows are 
 sometimes so covered with perspiration that their al- 
 most naked bodies look as though drenched by water, 
 they have no other means for making a living and they 
 [146] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 evidently want to live. Our visit in Penang was on 
 Good Friday, April thirteenth. 
 
 On the following morning we awakened to find our- 
 selves in the harbor of Singapore, having made the 
 voyage from Colombo in five days and fifteen hours. 
 Having learned, soon after breakfast, that a Dutch 
 steamer was about to sail for Java, we had ourselves 
 and luggage transferred to that steamer without going 
 ashore at Singapore. We, therefore, had before us 
 another voyage of five hundred and thirty-two knots 
 through the Java Sea to Batavia, Java, and which 
 would take us across the equator, the latter being but 
 about eighty miles south from Singapore. 
 
 The weather conditions throughout this voyage were 
 fairly comfortable considering the latitude. The De 
 Carpentier, on which we were, was a small steamer 
 of only about one thousand three hundred tons, but 
 she rode the seas fairly well. Only a dozen first-cabin 
 passengers were on board, amongst them our deaf 
 New York friend, heretofore referred to, and who had 
 also come from Colombo on the steamer Delhi. The 
 steerage was full, largely of Chinese on their way to 
 the island of Billiton to work in the tin mines. 
 
 Billiton is one of the many Dutch East India is 
 
 lands, from where comes a great deal of tin, said to 
 
 be of highest grade. Innumerable are the islands 
 
 passed in this voyage. The imaginary equatorial line 
 
 [147 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 was passed on April fourteenth at eight o'clock in the 
 evening, the first day out from Singapore. The sun 
 at the equator rises at six o'clock in the morning and 
 sets at six o'clock in the evening. Darkness sets in 
 soon after sundown. The following day was Easter 
 Sunday, though there was no pretense on the part of 
 the ship 's officers to celebrate the day. The four hun- 
 dred Chinese aboard, men and women, all of the coolie 
 class, were well behaved, seemed happy, and they also 
 appeared sturdy of physique. My own condition was 
 getting in bad shape, for beginning with the voyage 
 from Colombo, my stomach was acting badly, reflect- 
 ing itself on the bowels. Visions of dysentery, so 
 dreaded in that part of the world, began to loom up 
 before me. None too good for me was the Dutch rice- 
 tafle, served three times a day on the Be Carpentier. 
 The rice-tafle is made up of rice, as its name would 
 indicate, chicken in two or three different styles, beef 
 in as many forms, some pork, added to which were a 
 dozen or more condiments, consisting of grated cocoa- 
 nut, onion, and many other things. On the evening 
 of April sixteenth, at nine o'clock, after a fifty-eight 
 hours' run from Singapore, we went ashore at Bata- 
 via, welcomed by a drenching rain. 
 
 Batavia proper is about ten miles from the har- 
 bor, hence, after going through the customs house, we 
 boarded the cars, and finally reached the railway sta- 
 [148 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 tion at Batavia. The Hotel des Indes, for which we 
 were booked, was well away from the station, and with 
 the rain pouring as a cloudburst, with each member of 
 our party in one of the small native dogcart-like ve- 
 hicles, we made for the hotel, arriving there well 
 drenched. 
 
 The grounds around the hotel were covered with 
 about six inches or more of water as a result of the 
 rain. The hotel, the main part of which is of two 
 stories, has scattered around it, over much ground, 
 several annexes of one-story buildings. Our rooms in 
 the main building were as large as they were also 
 cheerless. It was already late, bed time, and with the 
 rain unabated, all the other guests retired, we, too, 
 turned in for the first night 's sleep in Java. So warm 
 are the nights on the island that the beds are without 
 covering, but a long roll pillow arrangement, called 
 a ''Dutch wife," is supplied instead. The "Dutch 
 wife" is placed between the legs and intended to ex- 
 tend up over the abdomen to prevent taking cold in 
 the bowels, and thus we slept the sleep of wearied 
 travelers. The same arrangement as to bedding con- 
 tinued throughout our visit in Java. One of the 
 first needs in Java is to secure a passport; accord- 
 ingly, on the following morning, we made an early 
 call at the municipal office for that purpose. Appar- 
 ently, a passport is made necessary, simply for the 
 [149] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 purpose of adding to the revenues of the island a fee 
 equal to .about a dollar (gold) having been charged us. 
 
 Batavia has a population of one hundred and eighty 
 thousand, of whom about four thousand are Euro- 
 peans, almost exclusively Dutch. The Dutch East 
 Tndias for the Dutch, is said to be the policy of Hol- 
 land, as is apparent even on a short visit in this part 
 of the world. Batavia, though unattractive from an 
 architectural point of view, was not without interest 
 to me. Its buildings, needless to say, perhaps, are 
 r?aodern rather than oriental, though they are neither 
 particularly. The natives look more or less Malayan, 
 though there are many Chinese. The latter here, as 
 elsewhere, in that part of the world, are largely the 
 trades people, so much so that we were informed that 
 the Dutch government was arranging to drive the 
 Chinese out of the islands. 
 
 Wherever the Chinaman goes in considerable num- 
 bers he soon develops his inherent qualities as a trades- 
 man. Rice, coffee, some tea and fruits, are the prod- 
 ucts of Java. The Java coffee, which I had previously 
 pictured as the acme of that beverage, proved a dis- 
 appointment to me in Java. Prepared and served 
 cold, in the consistency thick enough to be a coffee 
 essence, one was supposed to take but a little of it and 
 fill the cup with hot milk. It proved a failure as a 
 delectable drink from my point of view. Of the 
 
 [ 150 ] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 varied and new fruits of delicate flavor, I could in- 
 dulge in but sparingly, because of the continued 
 trouble with my stomach. This trouble was no doubt 
 a reflex of the indiscriminate eating while going 
 through India. Both here, and later in Singapore, 
 aboard ship and elsewhere while in this part of the 
 world, the mangosteen is much sought after by trav- 
 elers, many of whom regard the fruit as the most 
 delicious of any in the world. 
 
 At Batavia we were about eight degrees below the 
 equator, while the temperature was disagreeably 
 humid. Owing to the fact that we could not secure 
 passage back to Singapore on the Dutch mail steamer 
 sailing in about ten days, we were required to engage 
 passage on one of the same small freighters as brought 
 us down, and which was booked to sail four days 
 hence. Our visit to Java was thus cut down to almost 
 nothing, much to our disappointment, but as we had 
 not counted on an extended visit we made the best 
 of it. On the afternoon, therefore, of the day follow- 
 ing our arrival, we boarded cars for Buitenzorg, a 
 three hours' ride up the country and somewhat up in 
 the hills. The most luxuriant country in foliage was 
 thus spread before our eyes, with rice growing, seem- 
 ingly monopolizing cultivation. But little coffee was 
 seen; that Liberian, the real Java, bean being grown 
 in the eastern part of the island. 
 [1511 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 We arrived in Buitenzorg about five o'clock in the 
 afternoon, in a drenching rain. Rain here falls so 
 regularly between three and five o'clock that it is 
 referred to in the very limited literature we had come 
 across on Java. The railway service on the island is 
 about like that in Ceylon. Aside from its picturesque 
 situation, the main attraction in Buitenzorg is its 
 botanical garden, which is said to be one of the best 
 in the world. It is extensive in area and very attrac- 
 tively laid out. 
 
 Soekaboemi was our next objective point and where 
 we arrived in the afternoon of the following day, 
 again in a drenching rain, which lasted until ten 
 o'clock. We were thus confined to the hotel which 
 was beautifully situated. The bathhouse here was 
 located some little distance from the hotel proper, 
 necessitating one's going the full length of the 
 grounds, and the bath is a function of greatest neces- 
 sity in such a climate. The hotel like that at Bata- 
 via and Buitenzorg, is made up of several buildings 
 scattered over the grounds. The meals in Java con- 
 tinued largely of the rice-tafle, heretofore referred to. 
 
 Soekaboemi, situated about eight hundred feet above 
 the sea, is a small place, largely a resort for Bata- 
 vians desiring to get a slightly more agreeable tem- 
 perature than at Batavia. Even at Soekaboemi, how- 
 ever, the "Dutch wife" takes the place of bed cover- 
 [152] 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 ing. Except for its beautiful situation, the place had 
 no retaining attractions, hence on the day following 
 our arrival, we started for Bantoeng, two thousand 
 five hundred feet up in the hills, and where we ar- 
 rived at noon on April nineteenth. The temperature 
 here was fairly comfortable, but the humid atmos- 
 phere was always with us. 
 
 On the train to Bantoeng, I conversed with a fel- 
 low passenger, a professional man, who had at one 
 time lived in Chicago, and through whose courtesy 
 we were given the privilege of the local club. At the 
 latter place in the evening we attended a concert, all 
 those present sitting around tables drinking beer, and 
 seemingly happy. The Dutch in Java seem both 
 happy and healthful, more than is apparent of the 
 English in India. The Dutch women in Java adopt, 
 largely, the native style of dress, consisting of a light 
 waist which hangs loosely, a skirt arrangement that 
 apparently is not made up but just wrapped around 
 the body, their stockingless feet being partly covered 
 by a slipper. While these Dutch women looked im- 
 maculately clean, their costume, to my eyes, conveyed 
 a disposition to slovenliness. The most attractive 
 women seen were the Eurasians (white father, native 
 mother), of whom there are many in Java. These 
 women, far from being ostracised from society as in 
 India, are seemingly looked upon as the equals of 
 [153 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 any, and from several instances which came under my 
 observation the Dutch husbands of such wives re- 
 garded them as unequaled. The Soendanese women 
 of middle Java are said to be the handsomest women 
 on the island. 
 
 Bantoeng has an European population of two thou- 
 sand, as against sixty thousand natives — Chinese and 
 others. There is nothing of startling interest in the 
 place, except that it is, perhaps, the most popular of 
 the mountain resorts. "We were driven out about six 
 miles to a small waterfall that is referred to by the 
 towns people as well worth seeing, though to our party 
 the drive out and back was the interesting feature. 
 
 Holland seems to have the natives well under sub- 
 jugation, as exemplified in the humility shown, es- 
 pecially by the peasants and country folk. These sim- 
 ple folk whom we met while driving to the falls, 
 would, upon our approach, not only bare their heads, 
 but bow low besides. 
 
 On the evening of April twentieth, we returned to 
 Batavia after a tiresome ride of six hours from Ban- 
 toeng, a distance of one hundred and thirty-one miles 
 — fare five dollars (gold). After a late dinner we 
 attended a circus, said to be an American one. That 
 it was a one-horse affair there was no question, though 
 the admission price was rich, four guilders (one dol- 
 lar and sixty-three cents). 
 
 [154] 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 The basis of money circulation is the guilder (equal 
 to forty-one cents of United States money), one hun- 
 dred cents to a guilder, made up in one-half cent and 
 one cent copper coins, ten, twenty-five and fifty cents 
 in silver. 
 
 It was on our return to Batavia that we learned 
 of the San Francisco earthquake, which had occurred 
 that morning. Who can deny that news travels fast 
 over the world these days? Shocking as was the 
 news, we took comfort in the belief that the report 
 had been greatly exaggerated. Later developments, 
 however, showed how far the first reports had been 
 from telling the full horrors of the calamity. 
 
 Java and the East India Islands are a source of 
 good revenue to Holland. The Dutch, who come here 
 to live, learn to speak the native (Malay) tongue, un- 
 like the English in India, few of whom, I understand, 
 attempt the native languages, insisting, rather, that 
 the natives learn English. Holland monopolizes with 
 her marine the carrying business to and from her pos- 
 sessions here. Though the Dutch are said not to care 
 whether foreigners visit these islands or not, we met 
 with invariable courteous treatment throughout our 
 visit, as well as aboard ship to and from the island. 
 Included in the island's population, besides the na- 
 tives and Chinese, are some Arabs and Hindus. The 
 [155] 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 tipping system is not much in vogue in Java, and what 
 little is done or expected, is from foreigners. 
 
 Java still maintains a few native Sultans under 
 Dutch control, but who have little or nothing to say 
 in the administration of affairs. Some of the native 
 tribes in the interior are said never to have been con- 
 quered by Holland. The island is said to have some very 
 interesting phenomena in nature, such as volcanoes. 
 A short distance from Bantoeng may be seen geysers, 
 which send up at short intervals hot, muddy, sour 
 water ; also a milky colored boiling river of sulphuric 
 acid water, and an active crater or two. Luxuriant 
 foliage is seen on all sides from the time one sets 
 foot upon the island until departing. Our visit to 
 Java was unfortunately too short to be of absorbing 
 or lasting interest. 
 
 Aboard the steamer Van Authoorn at eight o'clock 
 on the morning of April twenty-first we steamed out 
 of the harbor of Batavia, passed an old gunboat or 
 two (Holland's navy) on the return trip to Singa- 
 pore. The voyage was an uneventful one. Another 
 stop was made at Billiton Island, where a considera- 
 ble cargo of tin ore and billets was taken on. It is 
 stated that eight thousand or more coolies, mostly 
 Chinese, are employed in the tin mines there. 
 As against three thousand natives and Chinese 
 in the place, there are but about thirty whites. The 
 [156 1 
 
DOING^OVER. 
 
 latter have a creditable club house, where two of our 
 party were introduced and proved the first Americans 
 to have registered since 1884. 
 
 On the steamer with us was a Belgian, a Mr. G , 
 
 manager of a rubber plantation on the island of 
 Golang, where he said his company, in which the Bel- 
 gian King is interested, has more than six hundred 
 thousand rubber trees growing, and which are to be 
 
 increased to a million. Mr. G claimed that trees 
 
 should be from six to seven years old before tapped 
 for rubber. If tapped much younger they do not 
 last long. 
 
 In the evening of April twenty-fourth, we finally 
 went ashore at Singapore, after a tiresome voyage 
 from Batavia. Singapore has a population of one 
 hundred and fifty thousand, of whom about three 
 thousand are Europeans, balance being largely Chi- 
 nese and Malayans. This city is the important stop- 
 ping point (second only to Hongkong) for all ves- 
 sels from Europe and China, Japan, Australia or the 
 States, the latter for vessels coming or going through 
 the Suez Canal. Singapore is an open port (no im- 
 port duty) and is about half way around the world 
 from New York. Continued hot and sultry weather 
 conditions were encountered, which, though we ought 
 now to be used to them, were none the less op- 
 pressive. 
 
 [157] 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 The Chinese are said to control the commerce of 
 Singapore, and are here seen out driving in all the 
 style and elegance of the foreigners. The city has 
 some very creditable public buildings and hotels and 
 good streets. We stopped at Raffle's Hotel, which 
 furnished very fair service. It is owned by several 
 Parsee brothers, who also control some of the hotels in 
 India. Chinese, exclusively, are employed in hotels 
 here, and as they do not understand English any too 
 well, quite frequently bring a very different meal 
 from, that ordered. 
 
 Singapore is on a small island, which is about four- 
 teen miles at its greatest width, and a narrow channel 
 only one-half mile wide separates it from the main- 
 land, the extreme southern portion of the Malay pen- 
 insula. During our five days' visit in Singapore, we 
 also went across to the mainland to visit the Sultan 
 of Johore's Palace, the lower part of the Malay penin- 
 sula comprising that potentate's domains. The lat- 
 ter is but small and said to be not overly rich in pro- 
 ductiveness. The Sultan, however, at the time of 
 our visit, was said to be in Paris, living lavishly, while 
 his poor subjects at home were required to live on next 
 to nothing. This enforced economy was applied as 
 well to wild beasts in captivity, for in the palace 
 grounds four tigers, caged, looked starved. The at- 
 tendants, being questioned on the subject, said they 
 [158] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 were allowed to give the beasts only small rations of 
 food. The palace was not a thing of beauty, though 
 it contained some beautiful ornaments, such as a cut 
 glass bedstead, tables and vases. And in addition, 
 in a vaulted room, there was quite a collection of silver 
 ornaments, the gifts of English royalty. A mosque 
 adjoins the palace, but like the latter it is of little 
 beauty. 
 
 Singapore is one of the three so-called Straits Set- 
 tlements, the others being Penang and Malacca. The 
 money of Singapore and Straits Settlements is the 
 dollar of one hundred cents, equaling two shillings 
 and four pence, or fifty-six cents in United States 
 money. A pathetic sight is the red light district 
 of Singapore, where many of the girls, still in short 
 dresses, were Japanese. These are seen at night on 
 the sidewalks in front of their homes. The laws for- 
 bid them to come off the sidewalks, the populace the 
 while taking to the streets. Of Europeans there are 
 said to be but few in the district. No English woman 
 is allowed there, however, the same regulations, it is 
 claimed, keep them out of all such districts in the 
 orient, over which Britain dominates. 
 
 159 
 
CHAPTER XV. 
 
 HONGKONG^ CANTON AND THE CANTONESE. 
 
 On the afternoon of April twenty-ninth, at four 
 o'clock, we boarded the steamer Dongola, of the P. & 
 0. line, for the one thousand four hundred and forty 
 miles' voyage up the China Sea to Hongkong. Of 
 first-cabin passengers there were but forty with about 
 a dozen in the second cabin. It will thus be seen 
 that the English do not all fear the second cabin, the 
 latter having about one-third as many as the first and 
 all in both classes, except our party of three, being 
 English. The Dongola is a sister ship to the Delhi, 
 hence of the same uncomfortable accommodations. 
 The meals continued to be roast beef, roast mutton, 
 cabbage and boiled potatoes. 
 
 After the Dongola had left Bombay, on this voyage, 
 for Colombo, three cases of the plague developed. In 
 consequence the passengers for the latter port were 
 not allowed to go ashore there, but, instead, were car- 
 ried to Penang about one thousand three hundred 
 miles beyond their intended destination. In addition 
 to the delay thus incurred, the Colombo passengers 
 are said to have been charged for the unwilling voy- 
 age to Penang, as they no doubt were also required 
 [160] 
 
DOINa OVER. 
 
 to pay passage back to Colombo. In all our hardships 
 or discomforts of the tour, we luckily escaped any 
 such experience. If any plague germs remained on 
 the Dongola at the time we had come aboard her at 
 Singapore, they did not appear in evidence in the voy- 
 age to Hongkong. Plague aboard ship, and because 
 one can not get far away from it, is not a comforting 
 thing to contemplate. 
 
 Life aboard the Dongola was much the same as we 
 had been experiencing on other recent voyages — 
 quiet; in consequence time began to drag some. The 
 passengers, as previously stated, were almost exclu- 
 sively English. Many of the latter in this tour from 
 time to time we found very agreeable, notwithstand- 
 ing their claimed coldness. That they are clanish, I 
 believe, and I also believe the peoples of all nations 
 to be likewise, the very natural consequence of na- 
 tional relationship. 
 
 After four days and sixteen hours of the Dongola 
 and China Sea, we steamed into the harbor of Vic- 
 toria (Hongkong) about nine o'clock on the morn- 
 ing of May third, and were at last in China after four 
 months of almost constant travel. 
 
 A feeling of relief came over me, for some reason, 
 
 as a consequence of our having reached China, and 
 
 which I account for, perhaps, because of anticipated 
 
 interest in the sights I believed to be in store for us. 
 
 11 r 161 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 Then, too, we had from time to time during the trip 
 while in India and other countries, read of Chinese 
 massacres of foreigners, hence the question arose in 
 our minds as to whether it would be safe to go ashore 
 in China. 
 
 Victoria, or Hongkong, as it is generally known, 
 has a population of two hundred and seventy thou- 
 sand, is a free port, and is located on the island of 
 Hongkong. Of the population about six thousand 
 are whites. The island belongs to Great Britain, hav- 
 ing been ceded her by the Chinese as the outcome of 
 the so-called opium war between Britain and China in 
 1842. Located on the side of a hill, the latter about 
 one thousand five hundred feet high, Victoria has a 
 very picturesque situation. The foreign business 
 quarters, confined to a very small area, because but 
 little of the city is on flat ground and that reclaimed 
 by filling in, has very creditable public buildings, 
 including several very fair hotels — The Hongkong, 
 The King Edward, and others. 
 
 Our arrival in Hongkong was to me both a relief 
 (in having distanced the tropical climates) and the 
 beginning of a new interest. The latter was intensi- 
 fied because of the frequent reports, during the pre- 
 ceding months, that trouble was close at hand for 
 all foreigners in China. Because of these reports, 
 one of our first acts after landing in Victoria was to 
 [162] 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 see the American Consul, who assured us we could 
 visit Canton (supposed to be the seat of hatred of for- 
 eigners) with perfect freedom of mind as to safety. 
 
 In Victoria the foreign residents live on top of and 
 on the side of the hills overlooking the city, those 
 well up on the hills being enveloped in the clouds 
 most of the time, and during the whole of the time of 
 our visit. The atmosphere in the city was of the low- 
 est temperature since our leaving northern India, but 
 as humid or more so than Calcutta or Colombo. Not 
 only did the rooms at the hotels smell musty, but the 
 bedding even seemed to exhale the smell and was cer- 
 tainly very damp. 
 
 An incline railway takes people to and from the 
 hill-top, and at places is the steepest railway I recall 
 having ever seen. The bay, from the hill, is very pic- 
 turesque, including, also, many vessels, representing 
 all parts of the world, besides some English warships. 
 The commerce of Hongkong is said to equal that of 
 Liverpool. During our visit to Victoria (broken by 
 the trip to Manila), a letter of introduction from a 
 friend at home, which I here presented to a Mr. 
 
 R , resulted in a most pleasant afternoon and 
 
 evening as the guests of that gentleman and his 
 charming wife. A part of the entertainment was a 
 ride in a launch, in which we went completely around 
 the island of Hongkong (thirty miles), with the addi- 
 [163 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 tion of a generous lunch. During the afternoon's 
 ride, we unwittingly greatly disappointed our hostess, 
 who had come prepared to go bathing, but not know- 
 ing how very anxious she was to show us how well 
 she could swim, and incidentally, perhaps, also to dis- 
 play a shapely figure, none of our party enthused 
 over the suggestion to go bathing. As a matter of 
 fact, also, we had no bathing suits. In the evening, 
 
 when guests at the home of the R 's, the truth of 
 
 Mrs. R 's afternoon disappointment was made 
 
 known when her disappointment and our regrets were 
 drunk to. The evening proved a very pleasant one 
 and continued into the very early next morning be- 
 fore adieus were exchanged. 
 
 On the day of our arrival in Victoria, at half -past 
 ten in the evening, we went aboard the steamer Han- 
 how (since destroyed by fire at her dock in Victoria, 
 many natives losing their lives), and started for the 
 one night's run of ninety-two miles up the Pearl 
 River for Canton. Arriving at the latter place about 
 six o'clock the next morning, our ears were greeted 
 by the roar of cannon, a confusing incident. The 
 Hankow had no sooner been fastened to the dock than 
 she was boarded by Chinese, Canton guides importun- 
 ing their employment to show us the sights of the 
 city. Though still in our staterooms, with the shut- 
 ters moved aside as we made our morning toilet, every 
 F 164 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 few minutes a Chinese head would appear at the win- 
 dow and ask "you wantee guide see Canton, me good 
 guide, knowee Canton welly good." It seemed, from 
 the number of these willing ones, that all Canton had 
 turned guide. Of the lot, we finally employed one, 
 Ah Cum, an old fellow of forty-six years' experience, 
 dignified and courteous. 
 
 The river above and below our landing was filled 
 with sampans (native boats), each one of which con- 
 tained one or more families. Half a million Can- 
 tonese Chinese are said to live in these sampans and 
 are an interesting group. Beginning very young, both 
 the boys and girls make themselves useful with the 
 oars, the latter being almost entirely manipulated by 
 the women. As a considerable population also lives 
 across the river from Canton, many of the sampans 
 are used to ferry people to and fro. It was a very 
 common sight to see a woman at an oar with an infant 
 strapped to her back, the latter apparently not the 
 least burdensome nor the infant unhappy. 
 
 After breakfast, we started about eight o 'clock, with 
 Ah Cum, to see the city. Carried in sedan chairs, 
 which had been provided for the purpose, and with 
 three coolies to a chair, we made quite a procession 
 with Ah Cum in the lead. Ten minutes after having 
 penetrated the narrow, crooked streets of six feet in 
 width, running apparently in all directions, we were 
 [165 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 as completely lost as if in a wilderness, except for our 
 guide. Not a vehicle or animal, other than dogs or 
 pigs, were to be seen, the latter invariably being car- 
 ried to slaughter. The hog is the Chinese pet meat 
 diet, of which they eat both the fresh and cured 
 product the entire year. With a population variously 
 estimated at from three-quarters of a million to three 
 millions, and the narrow streets, it was no mystery as 
 to why our coolies kept up an incessant warning call 
 to clear the way for our coming. The most conspicu- 
 ous pedestrians, as they seemed most numerous, were 
 those coolies carrying tubs filled with human excre- 
 ment and urine and with which the air was greatly 
 overcharged in consequence. Mingled with the pleas- 
 ant recollections in connection with the visit to Can- 
 ton, so also is the disagreeable odor which pervaded 
 everywhere, due to a mixture of causes. It had rained 
 a good part of the day and the stone flagging of 
 which the streets are made was very slippery. One 
 poor rascal, much overladen with his burden, slipped 
 and fell just as my coolies were passing, resulting in 
 the foremost one being almost swamped by the spill. 
 Due to the top covering of the sedan chairs, it was 
 necessary, when getting in, to first step between the 
 front shafts, then stoop and back into the seat. Be- 
 fore the day was over we had stepped out of and back 
 into the chair so often that I for one, fancied I could 
 [166] 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 do the shaft and backing act as perfectly as any old 
 horse that ever lived. 
 
 That part of Canton occupied by the foreign lega- 
 tions, located on a plot of ground ceded to Britain, is 
 modern, clean, and has some attractive buildings as 
 well as a foreign hotel. 
 
 One of the sights seen in the native part of the city, 
 was the place of execution, where three or four crosses 
 used for the purpose, to which criminals are tied and 
 hacked to death, were idle. Canton enjoys the dis- 
 tinction of having, during one year long since, exe- 
 cuted about eighty thousand people. The Temple of 
 Confucius was old and unattractive, architecturally; 
 the temple of five hundred gods, one of the latter 
 being Marco Polo, the Venetian traveler, whom the 
 Chinese so loved, that they deified, the god itself 
 clearly showing European features and beard; the 
 temple of doctor gods, where patients go for medicine, 
 which is selected by the caller shaking a cup contain- 
 ing a number of small sticks until one of the latter 
 falls out. All the sticks contain the name of some 
 medicine and whatever remedy thus appears upon the 
 stick shaken out of the cup is given for the patient, 
 regardless of the latter 's ailment. The pawn shops 
 are the most conspicuous buildings in the place, tow- 
 ering six and eight stories high and away above every 
 
 [ 167 ] 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 other building. The height of the pawn buildings in- 
 dicate their importance. 
 
 "We visited a Chinese school, where but few chil- 
 dren were in attendance. 
 
 At noon, Ah Cum conducted us to the five-storied 
 pagoda located on the highest part of the wall sur- 
 rounding the city, and, ascending to the top story, we 
 ate the cold luncheon that had been brought along. 
 
 Notwithstanding Ah Cum 's claimed forty-six years ' 
 experience as a guide, it here developed that he still 
 retained some of the Chinese superstitions and fear. 
 Adjoining the pagoda was an old fort with half a 
 dozen old cannon ; these latter were to be fired at noon, 
 and which also explained the firing on our arrival in 
 the morning — to frighten away the rain gods. The 
 latter had allowed too much rainfall, endangering the 
 rice and other crops, hence must be frightened away. 
 When Ah Cum had seen us well started with the 
 luncheon, and the noon hour close to hand when the 
 cannon firing would begin, he said to us that while 
 the pagoda was safe against the noise of the firing, 
 the loof (roof) might fall in and he would therefore 
 go below — a diplomatic way of warning us of the 
 danger, as he saw it, or a frank statement that he had 
 brought us up there to have the roof fall in on us, as 
 we were disposed to interpret it. The firing took 
 place on schedule time and kept up as fast as the 
 [168 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 old cannons could be loaded. Needless to say, the roof 
 withstood the shock, and the rain god must also have 
 been proof against fright, since the clouds continued 
 to pour down water. 
 
 Canton's streets are lined with bazaars, many of 
 them very attractive, as are also the mazes of over- 
 hanging signs. The Cantonese men are bright look- 
 ing and of good physique, many of them really hand- 
 some fellows. 
 
 So far as was apparent to us no ill-feeling existed 
 against foreigners, notwithstanding all that had re- 
 cently been published on the subject, and the mas- 
 sacre only a few months previously in some parts of 
 China, of some missionaries. A curious custom pre- 
 vails in the bazaars, for when we went into one the 
 doors were promptly bolted behind us and to all in- 
 tents and purposes we were prisoners. The utmost 
 courtesy, however, was shown us, and no disappoint- 
 ment was apparent if we failed to make a purchase. 
 The natives seemed thrifty and well-behaved even to 
 the coolie classes, who moved about with their heavy 
 burdens, and, greatly to their inconvenience, edged off 
 to a side (as was necessary that we might pass) with 
 not a murmur so far as we could distinguish. Some 
 of these poor fellows carried weight enough to bear 
 down a horse. Hung at the ends of a yoke, everything 
 is carried on their shoulders in twin baskets, tubs or 
 [169 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 other receptacle being used for the purpose. I saw 
 one fellow with a kind of twin baskets in which I 
 counted five pigs, the aggregate weight of which must 
 have been fully three hundred pounds or more. 
 
 A water clock and tower here is said to be six hun- 
 dred years old; the clock which is run by a trickling 
 stream of water, is a unique arrangement, and though 
 it does not keep correct time, the latter is posted reg- 
 ularly that the populace may know. The clock is 
 still doing service, such as it is. 
 
 The wall around the city was built by the Tartars 
 many centuries ago. The Cantonese are claimed to 
 be the oldest living nation of the world and are of 
 record three hundred years prior to the Christian era. 
 How many centuries it antedates that period probably 
 no one knows. 
 
 After a day of the most intense interest we again 
 went aboard the steamer Hankow, and before dark 
 started for the return trip to Victoria (Hongkong). 
 The numerous sampans that during the day had been 
 out somewhere upon the river had returned for the 
 night, and the denizens were seen preparing the even- 
 ing meal. The children, some of them mere infants, 
 were, in the meanwhile, playing or otherwise waiting 
 for the meal to be served. Crawling infants, when 
 not strapped to the back of the women or girls, were 
 usually tied to a rope to prevent their falling over- 
 [170 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 board. Some of the sampan denizens are said to 
 rarely ever go on shore, if at all. 
 
 Due to continuous rains, the Pearl River was high 
 and muddy, and its name about as applicable as snow- 
 ball would be for an African pickaninny. Until dark- 
 ness overtook us, however, and when Canton had been 
 left behind, the scenery along the river was pictur- 
 esque. The Hankow, though a small steamer, was 
 fairly comfortable, except for the odor from the lower 
 quarters, which were filled with natives. The latter 
 are great gamblers and kept it up all night, as did 
 those Chinese passengers on the trip from Hongkong 
 to Canton the night previous. 
 
 171 
 
CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 MANILA AND THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS. 
 
 Arrived back in Hongkong early the next morn- 
 ing, May fifth ; arrangements were soon completed for 
 the six hundred and forty miles ' voyage, again on the 
 China Sea, to Manila, and at noon we boarded the 
 steamer Zafira for the purpose. The only regular 
 line between Hongkong and Manila is a British one. 
 It developed, when we were buying our tickets, that 
 a head tax of two and one-half dollars (gold) is 
 charged all foreigners entering Manila. As Ameri- 
 cans we were not regarded as foreigners, hence the 
 head tax was omitted. The fare for the round trip 
 is eighty dollars, Mexican (about forty dollars, gold). 
 The Mexican silver dollar, all through China, so far 
 as we traveled, is the circulating medium, though the 
 Chinese tael, value about seventy-five cents (gold), is 
 the money basis. The tael is not, however, in circula- 
 tion, the Mexican dollar and small silver coin being 
 the medium; paper money of various denominations 
 is also being used, with the Mexican dollar as its 
 basis. One hundred cents to a dollar, issued in five-, 
 ten-, twenty- and fifty-cent silver coins, added to 
 which is the Chinese cash, ten of which make one cent. 
 [172] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 The cash is of both copper and brass, principally the 
 latter. 
 
 On board the Zafira were but seven white and about 
 fifty Chinese first-cabin passengers. The Chinese were 
 returning to Manila after a visit to China, their time 
 limit away from the islands having about expired if 
 they wished to renew their residence in the Philip- 
 pines. The Chinese exclusion act applies there as in 
 the United States. In the Chinese group of passen- 
 gers was an old fellow, a character, Ah Fat by name. 
 Ah Fat was fat in avoirdupois as well as in this 
 world's goods. He had been a hotel keeper in Manila, 
 and sold his lease at a good price to the owners, who 
 had previously sold the property to Uncle Sam. Hav- 
 ing sold to Uncle Sam before buying Ah Fat's re- 
 lease of the lease, the latter made the owners pay him 
 richly, the Chinaman being too shrewd not to see his 
 advantage. Ah Fat had spent a number of years 
 aboard American men-of-war, hence he was a past 
 master in the art of swearing in pidjin English. Like 
 all Chinese, Ah Fat, though he spoke very fair Eng- 
 lish, could not pronounce the letter "R," hence his 
 reference to a row as a low ; for instance, when asked 
 how many wives he had, answered, ''I got only one 
 wife, that enough, mo one wife make-a all time low." 
 A Chinaman can take unto himself as many wives as 
 [173 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 he can support, the latter condition being strictly ex- 
 acted. 
 
 The voyage of two days and twenty hours to Ma- 
 nila was rather pleasant, though the Zafira of only 
 two thousand two hundred tons did not sail as 
 smoothly as my stomach would have had it. It is be- 
 tween Manila and Hongkong that the typhoons so 
 often sweep everything before them, one of which we 
 missed by only a day. The accommodations on the 
 Zafira were very fair for a small steamer and the 
 meals fair, under the circumstances. 
 
 Manila Bay is, perhaps, one of the best land-locked 
 imaginable, with an entrance only about a half mile 
 wide, broken, however, by Corregidor Island (small), 
 not far from the mainland on one side. It was from 
 the old fort on Corregidor Island that the Spanish 
 tried to destroy Dewey's progress toward Manila dur- 
 ing the Spanish- American war. The water is too shal- 
 low between the island and the one shore for any but 
 small craft, while the channel for large vessels seemed 
 less than three hundred yards in width. Manila Bay 
 is forty miles long and about nine miles at its great- 
 est width, with Manila about thirty-five miles from 
 the entrance, while Cavite is five miles across the bay, 
 and where Dewey destroyed the Spanish fleet. 
 
 On the morning of May eighth, at eight o'clock, we 
 finally went ashore in the city, after a superficial ex- 
 [174] 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 amination by the customs officers of the little baggage 
 we had brought with us. The Bay View Hotel, where 
 we put up, was the poorest experienced in our entire 
 tour to date. One other hotel in the city is said to be 
 no better, the natural conclusion, therefore, is that 
 Manila badly needs a good hotel. In this connection 
 a singular coincidence occurred on the first evening 
 of our visit to the city. A retired army officer. Major 
 
 A , who had been a fellow passenger on board 
 
 ship from New York to Naples and whose acquaint- 
 ance we had made, urged us to look him up should we 
 
 visit Manila. Major A , therefore, was the first 
 
 individual we looked up after landing and who 
 promptly undertook to make our visit enjoyable. An 
 invitation to dinner at his home that evening was one 
 of the hospitalities extended us. It was there that 
 the above coincidence, and, surprise as well, was in 
 store for us, for amongst the half dozen male guests 
 was a hotel man from the States, formerly of Cincin- 
 nati and whom I had known for a number of years. 
 Four or five of the most prominent resident Ameri- 
 cans with our host had arranged the meeting that 
 evening with the hotel man (who had come from the 
 States for the purpose) to talk over the question of 
 building a creditable hotel in Manila. We were thus 
 complimented with the privilege of being listeners to 
 an important subject, besides the pleasure of the din- 
 [175] 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 ner. Before leaving the city, we were the guests at 
 dinner at the home of one other of those present at 
 
 Major A 's home. 
 
 Those resident Americans whom we met seemed en- 
 thusiastic over their new home and the island's pros- 
 pects. The old part of the city is surrounded by a 
 wall about fourteen feet thick, which, prior to Amer- 
 ican occupation, had a moat around it; the latter, 
 however, has since been filled in and is to be made part 
 of a park system. The wall, also, has in places been 
 taken down and streets run through. Needless to 
 say that, except for certain improvements of Uncle 
 Sam's, the city is Spanish in appearance, especially 
 inside the wall. A good electric street car system of 
 thirty-seven miles has recently been installed. While 
 not a beautiful city, the mixture of Spanish and 
 American architecture and the commingling of Span- 
 iards, Philippinos and Americans, gives the place a 
 fascinating appearance. Of the claimed two hundred 
 and fifty thousand population, between four thousand 
 and five thousand are Americans, about two hundred 
 and fifty English and a very few Germans. Though 
 midsummer at time of our visit and hot, ninety-five 
 to ninety-eight degrees in the shade, a steady breeze 
 made the conditions very bearable. Manila is about 
 fifteen degrees north of the equator, while Hongkong 
 is only about twenty-two degrees north. Everyone 
 [ 176 ] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 rides, even if for but a short distance. The Ameri- 
 can residents were apparent on all sides in the drives, 
 and even on horseback, in which some women took 
 part. The Philippino band, eighty pieces, which took 
 one of the prizes at the St. Louis Fair, gave concerts 
 in the Lunata (a large, open space fronting on the 
 bay) several times a week, around which the people 
 gather in close attention. The conductor was a fine 
 looking American negro. The attendance at these 
 concerts is large, many having come in carriages and 
 other turn-outs; the women, without exception in 
 white gowns, looked very attractive. The city is kept 
 cleaner than any of those previously seen on our tour. 
 
 An interesting visit was that to the penitentiary, 
 where there were four thousand convicts. The place 
 looked the perfection of neatness and discipline. Fur- 
 niture was one of the principal products made by the 
 convicts. Quite a few women were included in the 
 list, but these are not employed in any capacity be- 
 cause it is claimed they were useless at anj^thing prac- 
 ticable. 
 
 We were introduced in the Army and Navy Club, 
 a rather creditable one, and not only is it without 
 debt but has a comfortable surplus of fifty-five thou- 
 sand dollars (gold). As there is little or no means 
 of recreation in Manila, the Club and whisky and 
 soda help dispel lonesomeness. The Mexican dollar 
 12 [ 177 ] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 here, as in China, was the circulating medium, though 
 here called by its Mexican name — peso^ one hundred 
 centavos (cents) to a dollar or peso. 
 
 An afternoon was pleasantly spent on the Pasig 
 River, which runs through the city, again as Major 
 
 A 's guests. A mishap to the launch's engine, 
 
 however, prevented the excursion to Laguna Lake, 
 ten miles from Manila. The villages of Santa Anna, 
 San Miguil and town of Pasig, however, were passed 
 before the aforesaid mishap, thus giving us some little 
 idea of the rural life. The town of Pasig was the 
 scene of a good deal of fighting during the Philippino 
 insurrection, the results of which are still apparent in 
 some of the wrecked buildings. 
 
 We visited a cigarette factory, where two million 
 cigarettes and three thousand or four thousand cigars 
 are said to be made up daily, mostly women and very 
 young girls being employed. Every one here smokes ; 
 the natives, including the women, smoke cigarettes. 
 Cockfighting is the native sport and one sees some 
 Philippino carrying a fowl wherever he goes. The 
 cockpits are usually on the outskirts of the city. In 
 the latter locality could still be seen some of the ruins 
 of a typhoon of the year previous. The native huts 
 are made of bamboo. Manila's streets, except that 
 part of it built under American rule, are narrow, with 
 sidewalks in places not over two feet wide. The prin- 
 [178] 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 cipal business street, the Escolta, is being widened. 
 The property inside the wall was said to still belong 
 to the Friars. Catholic churches are numerous, most 
 of which are built fortress-like for defense purposes. 
 The majority of the homes in the walled city, and 
 some outside, are built with extension balconies at 
 the second floor, thereby recalling the balcony scene 
 in Romeo and Juliet. 
 
 As we had planned only a short visit to Manila, 
 arrangements were made to return to Hongkong on 
 the steamship Zafira, which had brought us over. In 
 consequence, we had but four days on the island, 
 during which time we probably saw the principal at- 
 tractions of the city, and I was pleased with having 
 made even so short a visit to Uncle Sam's farthest- 
 from-home oriental possession. 
 
 We were told that there were opportunities in the 
 Philippines for bright young Americans, who came 
 equipped with patience, a disposition to work, hon- 
 esty, and some little money. In addition to the three 
 thousand to four thousand Americans in Manila, there 
 are said to be about ten thousand in the various Phil- 
 ippine Islands ; these latter extending about one thou- 
 sand miles north and south and are claimed to be 
 about three thousand in number, of which one thou- 
 sand six hundred are said to be named and about six 
 hundred of them inhabited. The resources of the 
 ri79 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 islands in minerals are gold in limited quantities, coal 
 of good quality, some silver and copper, and coal oil. 
 The timber lands include mahogany and narra, though 
 these are said to be found scattered and at best are 
 not marketable because of the absence of railways; 
 the agricultural resources are the richest, and include 
 in importance in the order named, hemp, copra (dried 
 cocoanut from which the oil is made), sugar, tobacco, 
 rice, cacao (from which cocoa is made), cotton, and 
 some coffee, though the latter is said to be dying out. 
 The temperature of the islands as a whole is said 
 to be not unlike that of southern California, and any- 
 thing grown elsewhere can be produced on some one 
 or other of the Philippine group. The virgin soil on 
 the islands is claimed to be twenty feet deep in places. 
 Rains fall from time to time the year round, instead 
 of a dry and rainy season. All resident Americans 
 whom we met, in whatever position, appeared enthu- 
 siastic over the Philippine prospects. Capital, which 
 is badly needed in the development of the islands' 
 resources, would no doubt come if Congress, at home, 
 would cease its vacillating policy with regard to the 
 future of these possessions. The latter are said to be 
 weighted down by too much government, of which 
 there is enough for the administration of a country 
 many times the size of the Philippines. The cost of 
 the government is correspondingly hard on the pop- 
 [180] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 Illation. Congress has already made some grave blun- 
 ders in the administration of the islands and it is to 
 be regretted that we do not have a Colonial Depart- 
 ment unhampered by politics to administer over all 
 of our foreign possessions. Both resident Americans 
 and Philippinos have been demoralized by the posi- 
 tion taken by Congress from time to time. One of the 
 difficulties previously experienced by Americans de- 
 siring to invest was that of getting a clear title to 
 property, but that is being gradually overcome. For 
 extensive farming, one difficulty is the fact that not 
 over two thousand acres of land can be acquired by 
 one holder, and only forty acres are given to a home- 
 steader. 
 
 Our understanding was that the natives are com- 
 pletely subdued except for occasional bands of out- 
 laws. The American negro is said to be very kindly 
 taken to by the Philippino women, in consequence a 
 number of the former, as discharged from the service 
 in the Philippines, took up native women and located 
 in some one of the rural districts. What the new 
 race, resulting from this very newest human alliance 
 will be, time alone will tell. If there is now any in- 
 habited portion of the globe which does not include 
 the black man in its population, there must be some 
 oversight on the part of the fates. 
 
 Notwithstanding the above prospective new race 
 [181] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 it is my belief that the islands will some day prove a 
 valuable asset to Uncle Sam and that he should hold 
 on to them, not merely for coaling stations but also 
 because of their many resources. 
 
 At the time of our visit to Manila the local papers 
 were expressing jubilation over the information that 
 New York bankers were backing a project to build 
 four hundred and twenty-five miles of new railways 
 on the islands. As but between two hundred and 
 three hundred miles of railway made up the sum 
 total, previously, the new addition should be of great 
 benefit. 
 
 A fact to be regretted is the one that so few Ameri- 
 cans visit Manila or the islands. Great is the num- 
 ber of our people who go to Japan, Shanghai and 
 Hongkong (the latter place only six hundred and 
 forty miles from Manila) with no seeming interest 
 in the islands. If the latter belonged to Britain every 
 Englishman from every part of the world would want 
 to visit the new possessions. It is my belief that 
 Britain, Japan, Germany, France and other of the 
 powers would gladly take the Philippines off our 
 hands, even at a profit above the cost to us. 
 
 "While it meant a voyage of one thousand two hun- 
 dred and eighty miles from Hongkong and return, 
 for the four days in Manila, it gave me much gratifica- 
 tion to have made the visit. 
 
 [ 182 1 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 At eleven o'clock on the morning of May twelfth, 
 we were taken out to the Zafira, upon a launch, for the 
 return to Hongkong. The pier at Manila is not built 
 out into the water, hence steamers anchor off shore 
 a short distance. As the Zafira steamed away down 
 the bay under a bright sunshine, Cavite could be seen 
 across the five miles' distance, while picturesque Ma- 
 nila grew steadily less distinct until it finally passed 
 from view. Already the visit there was a thing of 
 the past and in all probability, so far as I am con- 
 cerned, not to be seen again except as pictured in the 
 mind. 
 
 Aboard the Zafira this time were about twenty first- 
 cabin passengers, nearly all Americans, including two 
 young Chicagoans. The weather was ideal through- 
 out the two days and seven hours' run to Hongkong 
 (Victoria). Fortune again favored us and we had 
 another narrow escape from introduction to a ty- 
 phoon, which this time followed the day after our voy- 
 age. The most beautiful sunset I ever saw appeared 
 at end of the second day, the coloring of the after- 
 glow was especially dazzling in its wondrous beauty. 
 As on the voyage to Manila, the Zafira on the return 
 to Hongkong gave evidences of what a shaking up 
 she would be capable of in a storm, to say nothing of 
 what she might not do in a typhoon. The China Sea 
 [183] 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 is a restless body of water, due to the constantly blow- 
 ing trade winds. 
 
 With the addition of the Americans above referred 
 to some new life was infused into our party. Begin- 
 ning with our first landing in Victoria (Hongkong) 
 we began also to feel we were nearer home, because 
 of the numerous Americans we were constantly run- 
 ning across. 
 
 [184 
 
CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 BACK TO CHINA AND VOYAGE THROUGH THE YELLOW SEA 
 AND GULP OF PECHILI PAST PORT ARTHUR. 
 
 Arrived at Hongkong from Manila on the evening 
 of May fourteenth ; we took up quarters this time at 
 the Hotel King Edward, a very fair one. As on our 
 previous visit the weather conditions were humid, 
 though the temperature was between seventy and 
 eighty degrees. My notes, beginning with our first 
 stop in Hongkong, May third to fifth, covered both 
 visits there, leaving little to add here except for a 
 visit to Macao. The latter city belongs to Portugal 
 and is located across Kwang Chu Bay from Hongkong, 
 about forty miles, the trip having been made in a 
 small steamer, Wing Char, owned by a Chinese com- 
 pany with English officers, and plying between the 
 two cities. 
 
 Macao has a population of about seventy thousand, 
 of whom many are Portuguese. Portugal was the 
 first foreign power to be given a concession by China : 
 the small province of Macao. Portugal was, besides, 
 the discoverer of the orient and given first concession 
 in India, namely, Goa. Macao is known as the Monte 
 Carlo of the orient, because of its numerous gambling 
 [185] 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 resorts. These latter are patronized principally by 
 the natives, but foreigners are said not infrequently 
 to take a hand, the popular game being fantan. The 
 revenue drawn by Portugal from the gambling re- 
 sorts' licenses is said to be very considerable. While 
 the city in the main has a Chinese appearance, much 
 of it is of Portuguese architecture, including all the 
 public buildings. A small detachment of Portuguese 
 soldiers is continually kept here. A remarkable relic 
 here is the ruins of St. Paul's Catholic Church. The 
 latter, built a long time ago, was destroyed by fire 
 some years since, and nothing at all remains of the 
 structure but the front wall. The latter, almost in- 
 tact, with a number of statues of saints, only just 
 shows signs of the church's destruction in some of the 
 stone about the upper windows, and nearby statues 
 being somewhat broken as a result of the great heat. 
 The church is on a high eminence, with broad steps 
 leading up to it, the whole making an imposing as 
 well as pleasing picture. 
 
 A visit to an opium factory was an interesting one. 
 Numerous kettles contained the boiling stuff which 
 has been for years poisoning the Chinese mind and 
 body. "We happened in at the opium factory at noon 
 and a number of the Chinese workmen were naked 
 and taking baths in some of the kettles used for boil- 
 ing the opium. 
 
 [ 186 ] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 The city fronts on the mouth of a small stream, the 
 latter full of junks and sampans, the whole making a 
 picturesque sight. In one of the large junks a Chi- 
 nese wedding was being celebrated, the principal fea- 
 ture, so far as we could see, being the incessant ex- 
 plosion of firecrackers. A good part of the day was 
 taken up in the visit to and from Macao. On the re- 
 turn trip we met an old fellow, an Australian, who 
 claimed to have originated the lie about the Indian 
 magician's trick of tossing a rope in the air which 
 would remain suspended and up which a small boy 
 would climb, then disappear. The old fellow was both 
 a reprobate, from his own confession, and a charac- 
 ter as well. He claimed to have been connected with 
 all the prominent American circuses, dating back for 
 years, and at the time we met him he was advance 
 agent for an American magician, performing in Hong- 
 kong at the time. 
 
 Though Hongkong is a British concession, the 
 money current is the Mexican dollar of one hundred 
 cents, in value about half that of our dollar, though 
 fluctuating in value w^th the rate of exchange and sil- 
 ver. While the foreign population of the place is 
 largely British, a good many Germans are also promi- 
 nent in business, as evidenced by a very creditable 
 club building. ' 
 
 On May eighteenth, we went aboard the steamer 
 [187 1 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 Siberia, of tlie Pacific Mail Steamship Company, for 
 the voyage of eight hundred and sixty miles through 
 the Eastern Sea to Shanghai. The Siberia looked de- 
 lightfully good to me for a number of reasons — be- 
 cause an American steamer and service, because many 
 Americans were aboard, and because the steamer was 
 modern and large (five hundred and sixty feet long, 
 and eighteen thousand tons displacement), with com- 
 fort all around. It was the Siberia which made the 
 record run (ten days and ten hours) from Yokohama 
 to Frisco with Alice Roosevelt and party aboard. We 
 steamed out of Hongkong harbor with but about 
 seventy-five first-cabin passengers, but every berth 
 was reported engaged for the run from Yokohama to 
 San Francisco. The temperature, soon after we were 
 well under way, became very comfortable. The sky 
 was overhung with clouds, however, and as we pro- 
 ceeded up the Eastern Sea, toward evening a cold 
 rain came up. The Chinese coast could be seen more 
 or less all day and during the night we passed through 
 the Formosa channel, between the mainland and the 
 island of Formosa. The following day brought raw 
 cold winds, followed early in the evening by a light 
 fog, which continued to grow more dense during the 
 night. The ominous and uncanny sound of the fog 
 horn continued all night, making sleep but little short 
 of a nightmare. By eleven o'clock the following day 
 
 [188] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 we came to a dead stop, the dense fog and nearness 
 of the mainland and islands making it foolhardy to 
 proceed. Once the fog seemed to be lifting and the 
 engines were again put to work, but it soon developed 
 the fog had no such cheering intention; the anchor 
 was again dropped and we were thus delayed thirty 
 hours before the uncanny gloom took wings and dis- 
 appeared. When distance could again be seen, two 
 small islands reared up high, not more than a mile 
 ahead of us, and between which we now passed in 
 safety. Time had become a drag with the gloom of 
 fog hanging over us and the thirty hours' delay did 
 not add cheerfulness to my frame of mind. A num- 
 ber of American girls were aboard, and though some 
 of them seemed charming I did not seem to have come 
 within the influence of their charm. On the contrary 
 I felt myself being held back, as it were, from any 
 but the most formal acquaintance with them. This 
 same feeling had controlled me on previous occasions 
 on this tour, in consequence I probably missed mak- 
 ing some pleasant acquaintances. 
 
 The end of the voyage of three days and eleven 
 hours on the Siberia came during the night of May 
 twenty-first, when our good ship anchored opposite 
 Wusung on the Whampoo River, forty miles up from 
 its mouth. Shanghai was still twelve miles up the 
 Whampoo, the water in which is too shallow to admit 
 [ 189 1 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 of vessels of the deep draught of the Siberia. About 
 eight o'clock we boarded a tender, with our luggage, 
 for the additional run to Shanghai, where we went 
 ashore at half-past nine. 
 
 Having previously planned a trip to Pekin via the 
 Yellow Sea, the very first thing we did after landing 
 was to look up steamship offices for this purpose. It 
 developed that a small steamer, belonging to the Chi- 
 nese Mining and Engineering Company (British) 
 with a concession in the extreme northern part of 
 China, was to leave that afternoon. Accordingly we 
 promptly purchased tickets and without trying to 
 see Shanghai went aboard the steamer Ching Ping, 
 of the above named steamship company, for the voy- 
 age of six hundred and forty miles to Chinwangtao. 
 A young man, son of a Chicago packer, and his tutor, 
 both of whom we had met on the Zafira, from Manila 
 to Hongkong, joined our party, now five in number, 
 for the above voyage. We were the only passengers 
 on board the Ching Ping, which had very poor ac- 
 commodations, but a jovial and good story-telling cap- 
 tain. The latter had provided fairly good food, and 
 in all respects made us feel as much at home as was 
 possible upon a small ship not intended for passen- 
 ger service. The fare from Shanghai to Chinwangtao 
 was sixty-one dollars (Mexican). We steamed away 
 from Shanghai about three o'clock, down the Wham- 
 [190] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 poo River to its mouth, thence out into the Yellow Sea. 
 Our course, the second night out, took us past Port 
 Arthur, about ten miles off, now historic waters, on 
 the one side, and Shantung, the German concession, 
 and Weihaiwei, a British concession, on the China 
 coast, and finally through the Strait and Gulf of 
 Pechili to Chinwangtao. The voyage was free of any 
 special incident, much of the time being put in play- 
 ing solitaire. Our little steamer did the rolling act 
 more or less all the time, running in the trough of 
 the sea. 
 
 The China coast along our course is said to still 
 harbor some pirates, who from time to time capture 
 Chinese junk boats when laden with a cargo, and 
 which they dispose of. Up until about fifteen years 
 ago even steamers were not immune from the attacks 
 of these pirates. To this day steamers keep themselves 
 prepared for such adventures. 
 
 [191 
 
CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 EXTREME NORTHERN PART OF CHINA, THE GREAT WALL 
 IN ITS APPROACH TO THE SEA, AND PEKIN. 
 
 Early in the afternoon of May twenty-fifth, we ar- 
 rived at Chinwangtao, seventy hours from Shanghai, 
 a record run for the Ching Ping. Bidding our jovial 
 captain good-bye we went ashore, with the small bag- 
 gage brought with us for the trip, our trunks having 
 been left in Shanghai. 
 
 Chinwangtao is a port mainly for the Chinese Min- 
 ing and Engineering Company and from which car- 
 goes of coal are regularly started for various parts of 
 the orient, South Africa, and other points. Fifty 
 thousand Chinese coolies are said to have been started 
 for South Africa from this place, during the preceding 
 months, to work in the mines. 
 
 The natives here seem as hardy and fierce as they 
 undoubtedly, also, are poor. With a railway built 
 from here direct to Pekin, the latter, it is said, would 
 be brought to within ninety miles of the coast, whereas 
 it is now ninety miles from Tientsin, and the latter 
 is on a small river some miles from the coast. 
 
 Since the Boxer troubles of 1900, garrisons of Brit- 
 ish, French, German and Japanese soldiers, are sta- 
 [192] 
 

 
 ill 
 
 
 Rj^H 
 
 
 ffli 
 
 Ii 
 
 iiliillli 
 
 rr^E 
 
 ^*. 
 
 1 
 
 WPi 
 
 •# ^^ 
 
 
 " ' ■," '^'h^ 
 
 ^■# • 
 
 
 
 "C 
 
 r- '^ 
 
 i 
 
 M 
 
 l1 
 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 tioned at Chinwangtao and Tientsin. There was little 
 to see at Chinwangtao, except the poor natives, and 
 as our objective point was Shanhaikwan, ten miles 
 away on the railway, and the train was to start three 
 hours after our landing from the Ching Ping, we were 
 glad when ail-aboard was called out by the train con- 
 ductor. Our first ride, however, was but four miles 
 to a place called Tongho, where we changed to the 
 Chinese Imperial Railway for the ten mile run to 
 Shanhaikwan. Arriving at the latter place about 
 dark, we were soon in a hotel run by an Englishman. 
 The hotel was surrounded by a stone wall, built for 
 defensive purposes should occasion arise. The city, 
 also inside a stone wall, was in an opposite direction. 
 As the night was dark and the city unlighted, except 
 by such flickering lights as came from homes or shops, 
 our party in a short stroll into the city had both a 
 guide and lanterns. 
 
 Early on the following day, before breakfast, we 
 started out to visit the Great Wall of China, which, 
 a short distance away, comes down over the Khingan 
 Mountains to the sea. The sight of this much-talked- 
 of and written-about wall thrilled me with interest as 
 I gazed at it at close range, climbed over it and saw 
 it in the distance as it disappears from view over the 
 mountains. 
 
 The Great Wall is said to have been built to keep 
 13 [ 193 ] 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 out the Manchus (Manchurians). However, about 
 two hundred and sixty years since, the then Em- 
 peror of China appealed to the Manchus to help put 
 down a rebellion then prevailing in China. The 
 Manchus responded with an army and when it arrived 
 at Pekin, finding the Emperor had previously com- 
 mitted suicide and the throne unoccupied, selected 
 one of their number, crowned him Emperor, the dy- 
 nasty continuing to rule to the present day. The wall 
 at Shanhaikwan seemed to be about seventy-five feet 
 high, and fifteen feet wide at the top. It is said to 
 be about two thousand miles in length and was built 
 so many thousand years ago (said to be about four 
 thousand), that man knows not its age. The Wall 
 divides China from Manchuria and we crossed into 
 the latter country but a short distance, through a gap 
 cut into the Wall for the Chinese Imperial Railway. 
 The latter, connecting with the Japanese Railway at 
 Harbin or Mukden, finally joins with the Russian 
 Trans-Siberian Railway at Vladivostok. One can now 
 go from Pekin to St. Petersburg by rail, the trip tak- 
 ing about seventeen days. 
 
 As our visit to Chinwangtao and Shanhaikwan was 
 simply to see the Great Wall and there being no other 
 incentive to keep us in such an out of the world sort 
 of place, we departed by the first train, which left 
 at half-past eight the morning after our arrival. 
 [194] 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 After the visit to the Wall we partook of a hurried 
 breakfast and then went aboard the Chinese Imperial 
 Railway, and started for the two hundred and sixty- 
 three mile run to Pekin via Tientsin (ninety miles, 
 Tientsin to Pekin) . 
 
 The Chinese Imperial Railway, owned jointly by 
 Chinese and British capital, is apparently under good 
 management and gives very fair accommodations. 
 The cars, which are superior to those in India, Burma 
 and Java, also included a diner. The building of 
 railways in China is attended with no little difficulty, 
 because of the superstition of the natives. In con- 
 versation with a Swede, who was at the time connected 
 with the road, and was a fellow traveler, he stated 
 that at one point when the Chinese Imperial Railway 
 was being built, while tunneling, an order came from 
 the Imperial Government to stop the work because of 
 its disturbance of the repose of a dragon, who was 
 supposed to be asleep in the hill through which the 
 tunnel was being cut. Other instances occurred, when, 
 along the line contemplated, graves of mandarins or 
 other notables happened, the relatives could with dif- 
 ficulty be persuaded to allow the remains to be moved 
 to some other resting place, claiming that the spirits 
 of the dead thus removed would be disturbed. In one 
 instance the relatives of a noted mandarin positively 
 would not allow his remains to be disturbed, and the 
 ri95 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 railway was built to swerve around the grave. When 
 trains were finally run over that part of the road, 
 engineers were instructed to blow their whistles at 
 full blast when passing the spot. The result was that 
 the family of the dead mandarin in a short while 
 concluded the spirit of the dead was being greatly 
 disturbed by the whistling locomotives and they qui- 
 etly took him up, moving him sufficiently far away 
 from the railway that he might rest in peace. There- 
 after the track was straightened where it had pre- 
 viously been built to swerve out. 
 
 The Chinese do not have general burying grounds, 
 but bury here, there and everywhere, wherever the 
 relatives own property. Because of their custom, the 
 whole country appears dotted with mounds, the size 
 of the latter indicating the man's standing in life. 
 Much land is correspondingly deprived of cultivation. 
 The country from Shanhaikwan to Tientsin and 
 Pekin, and as seen later from the latter city to Han- 
 kau, is almost entirely level, with occasional low 
 mountains in the distance. Except for the very nu- 
 merous mounds of buried Chinamen, the lands were 
 fully under cultivation, peasants being seen at work 
 all along the line of railway. Thousands of acres of 
 grain, wheat and barley, were being harvested. At 
 points near the coast, between Shanhaikwan and 
 Tientsin, were many salt beds, with curious wind- 
 [ 196 ] 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 mills fitted with sails, to pump the water from the 
 sea, which was then allowed to evaporate, the salt 
 finally being piled into heaps ready for the market. 
 
 We arrived at Pekin on the evening of May twenty- 
 sixth in a rain, and the streets were as frightfully 
 muddy as disgustingly dusty forty-eight hours there- 
 after, for the day after our arrival, and during our 
 visit, the sun shone as hot as I ever experienced it. 
 Pekin is filthy with dirt of a mixture purely Chinese, 
 and with a high wind blowing and the dust flying in 
 over-generous quantities, there is no telling what 
 amount and breed of microbes we were required to 
 inhale and swallow. The city is the very filthiest of 
 any that it was my misfortune ever to have visited. 
 The population of Pekin, like that of other large Chi- 
 nese cities, is uncertain and is variously estimated at 
 from one million to two millions. It has nothing of 
 exterior beauty to recommend it, and, except for the 
 history that attaches to it, or for curio hunters, there 
 is no good excuse for visiting it, as seen from my 
 point of view. Of foreigners there are said to be 
 about five hundred, exclusive of about one thousand 
 two hundred legation guards. In case of another 
 Boxer or like uprising the foreign garrisons here, with 
 those at Tientsin and Chinwangtao, and other places, 
 brought upon the scene with their modern man-killing 
 equipment, could soon make frightful gaps in the 
 ri97 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 Chinese hordes who might make the attack. Equally 
 equipped and drilled, as the Chinese are gradually be- 
 coming, the aforesaid garrisons would be as flakes of 
 snow in a blizzard against the great odds in numbers. 
 The foreign legation buildings, and at least one for- 
 eign business house seen in Pekin, are built for de- 
 fensive purposes, being surrounded by high stone 
 walls. Here the British legation buildings, as else- 
 where in the orient, are the most imposing, with Uncle 
 Sam's as sort of a second rate by comparison. To all 
 outward appearances the Chinese in Pekin, as else- 
 where in our rounds, showed no signs of displeasure 
 over the presence of the foreigners. During our visit 
 in Pekin, however, the local English papers editorially 
 commented on the fact that Chinese posters had re- 
 cently been distributed throughout the city urging 
 another demonstration against the legations, the time 
 set having been just about during our visit. The resi- 
 dent foreigners, so far as could be judged, did not 
 appear uneasy over the situation. 
 
 Between the members of the foreign legations and 
 the foreigners in business here, there is the strongest 
 evidence of what man will risk for money. As I un- 
 derstand it, the lawless classes are made up of the 
 low class coolies, who still hate the foreign devils (for- 
 eigners). We were also told that hunger is often at 
 the bottom of the attacks upon foreigners, for during 
 [198] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 famine periods, the mandarins or other officials, fear- 
 ing for their own safety, work on the credulous minds 
 of the ignorant natives, charging the crop failures to 
 the presence of the foreigners — thus diverting the 
 wrath of the people upon them. Most resident for- 
 eigners spoken to on the subject placed the blame al- 
 most entirely on the presence in China of foreign mis- 
 sionaries. They state that the latter, over-zealous in 
 their efforts at conversion of the natives, are charged 
 with trying to force Christianity upon them, whether 
 or no. 
 
 Pekin has five walls around it, including that 
 around the ' ' Forbidden City, ' ' which is in the centre 
 of the city and tightly closed to foreigners. In addi- 
 tion, the Chinese homes, seemingly made up of small 
 communities, are also inside walls, hence the city is 
 surely made up of walls within walls. 
 
 The American minister at Pekin, Mr. Rockhill, is 
 claimed to be the most learned (having also a fluent 
 command of the Chinese language) and highly re- 
 garded of all foreign ministers in China. While cred- 
 ited with having discovered the source of the Yangtze- 
 Kiang River as in Thibet, it is also claimed that no 
 white man has ever, so far as known, traversed the 
 river to its source. Estimates of the length of the 
 Yangtze-Kiang place it at about one thousand six 
 hundred miles. 
 
 [199 1 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 The Grand Hotel des Wagon Lits, at Pekin, where 
 we put up, as to service was very poor; however, the 
 rooms were comfortable, and it has the reputation of 
 being the best of the two foreign hotels in the city, 
 both being close to the legation neighborhood. 
 
 Of the public attractions here the temples probably 
 are in the lead, in fact, there are no others as to build- 
 ings, the Temples of Heaven and of Longevity being 
 the only ones that I could view as attractive. These 
 are enclosed in immense grounds (as are all the tem- 
 ples here), and numerous buildings make up the tem- 
 ple group. Included in the grounds of the Temple of 
 Heaven are several attractive marble terraces, one of 
 which is claimed, by the Chinese, to represent and to 
 be the centre of the earth. The Temple of Confucius, 
 and others visited, have little or no architectural 
 beauty to recommend them. A great number of acres 
 of ground are given to the temples. In the pagoda 
 drum tower one of our party indiscreetly struck the 
 drum (a large and loud sounding one) with the heavy 
 drum stick which was hanging close by, and thus 
 badly frightened the attendant, who claimed he would 
 lose his head, and that it might possibly make trouble 
 for us if the drum was tapped except in connection 
 with the ceremonial for which it is intended. The 
 aforesaid drum tower is located upon a slight emi- 
 nence and to get to the top of the tower was a very 
 [200 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 tiresome climb. Once there, however, the city was 
 seen scattered in all directions and for miles around, 
 for it is built scattering. 
 
 An interesting visit was to one of the Chinese the- 
 atres, a barn-like arrangement, but on the afternoon 
 of our visit it was packed with seemingly happy and 
 good-natured men. We were given places right off 
 from and overlooking the stage, our seats (an old 
 bench), being enclosed as private, and out of which 
 a number of Chinamen had been unceremoniously 
 driven by the attendant that we might occupy the 
 places. The performance, purely Chinese, seemed to 
 amuse the audience, who, while not boisterous in ap- 
 plause, showed approval in laughter. If foreigners 
 were hated by that motley audience, most of them 
 only half clad, no better opportunity to show it could 
 have been desired, and as for our getting away from 
 the place, if attacked, our position was even worse 
 than that of rats in a trap. There was but one exit 
 from where we were and the space between us and 
 the steps to the ground floor was crowded, to say noth- 
 ing of the packed house below. 
 
 After the visit to Canton, I did not see the number 
 of fine-looking fellows that were so numerous in that 
 city. The women are unattractive, though modest in 
 bearing, and gaze upon foreigners with seeming ti- 
 midity. 
 
 [2011 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 There is an entire absence of the attractive bazaars 
 so numerous in Canton, however, as in the latter place, 
 and elsewhere, when in a shop for shopping pur- 
 poses, there always seem to be a half dozen, more or 
 less. Chinamen around interested in the proceeding. 
 
 Pekin, from my experience, is a poor place for the 
 curio hunter. The place, however, has innumerable 
 ornamental arches across the streets, triumphal arch 
 like. One of these, built of stone, is on the site where 
 the German Ambassador, Baron Von Ketteler, was 
 murdered at the outbreak of the Boxer trouble, the 
 German Emperor forcing the Chinese Government to 
 erect the arch in memory of the Baron, and in humili- 
 ation for the deed. 
 
 The few Chinese soldiers which we saw in China 
 were a misnomer, in appearance, for the word soldier 
 as applied to those of the civilized nations. At Pekin 
 we saw some army officers riding, squatted upon the 
 floor of a native vehicle not unlike a cart, except for 
 the top and side covering. This vehicle, built strong 
 enough for any purpose and from its size intended 
 for but one passenger, almost completely obscures the 
 occupant from more than just a casual view from the 
 front. Riding in advance of the aforesaid officer is 
 
 [202] 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 a horseman or two in native costume, the whole as 
 unlike soldiery as could be. 
 
 The native policeman is another grotesque figure, 
 and is more like an overgrown boy playing police- 
 man than the real thing; and of those which I saw 
 not one had even the ordinary appearance of intelli- 
 gence, nor did they possess the redeeming appearance 
 of ferociousness. From casual observation my judg- 
 ment would be that China is not ruled by force of 
 disciplined character. As an off-set to the above de- 
 scription, we saw in Canton the possible future real 
 soldier — the young boy cadets. These latter were 
 bright looking, spoke English and acted perfectly 
 at home and self-reliant in conversation with 
 our party. They were minus the queue, and 
 in modern cadet suits of yellow, these little 
 fellows of perhaps fourteen to sixteen years of 
 age looked very promising. While China is 
 said to be drilling considerable of an army upon mod- 
 ern lines, yet we saw none of it. The Chinaman is 
 as much a pidjin man as he is far from a fighting 
 one, hence no wonder of his defeat in warfare. The 
 word pidjin is purely the Chinese expression for the 
 word business. He appears well-behaved, quiet, in- 
 dustrious and honest. In those foreign countries 
 where we previously met him in numbers — Penang, 
 Singapore and Java — he forges ahead in business to 
 [203 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 an astonishing degree. The Chinaman, when poor 
 or in but moderate circumstances, is a frugal fellow, 
 but once well-to-do lives on the fat of the land to the 
 fullest extent of pleasure. The coolie (poor) classes 
 go almost naked, while the wealthy appear pictur- 
 esque in attractive colored silk gowns. 
 
 204 
 
CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 NANKING, THE OLD CHINESE CAPITAL, AND THE YANGTZE- 
 KIANG RIVER. 
 
 But, to get out of Pekin, of which, from my observa- 
 tion, there is nothing more to say, on the evening of 
 the third day of our visit we boarded the train de luxe 
 (train of luxury) for the seven hundred and fifty 
 mile run to Hankau. This trip usually takes three 
 days, the trains running by day only. On one day of 
 the week, however (Mondays), the train de luxe is 
 sent out and makes the distance in thirty-six hours, 
 running both day and night. The railway, built and 
 owned by Belgians under a Chinese concession, and 
 known as the Pekin and Hankau Railway, is compara- 
 tively new. The train de luxe is made up of compart- 
 ment sleepers and a dining car, and while all are 
 cheaply built, yet they are as comfortable as many of 
 the compartments on the continent of Europe. 
 
 The trip was a hot one, during the day, so that it 
 was a great relief when Hankau was reached. That 
 the trip is easily made in the thirty-six hours allotted 
 is evidenced by the fact that we were continually run- 
 ning ahead of time, and frequently made long stops 
 at stations to let time catch up with us. As but very 
 [205] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 few trains are run, there was apparently no fear, on 
 the part of the trainmen, of a collision. The train 
 de luxe, with its dining car service, had only been put 
 on a few weeks prior to our trip, hence was still a 
 curiosity to the natives. If a stop was made at a sta- 
 tion at meal time the crowds gathered would justify 
 the impression that every Chinaman in the particular 
 town was trying to get a peek into the diner, with its 
 occupants at meal. That the train de luxe was such, 
 at least so far as the railway fare is concerned, the 
 cost of thirty-five dollars (gold) is proof positive. The 
 statement that the railway is a handsome-paying in- 
 vestment for the Belgians must certainly be true, as 
 the above fare would also seem to prove beyond doubt. 
 The country through which the Pekin and Hankau 
 Eailway passes is agricultural, and we saw thousands 
 of acres of grain, said to have been wheat, barley and 
 rye, being harvested by men, women and children. 
 Except for low mountains, to be seen in the distance 
 from time to time, the land was level, apparently 
 fertile, and except for the innumerable mound graves 
 scattered all along the line, every foot of the land ap- 
 peared to be cultivated. Of the cities along the line 
 of the railway but little could be seen, because of 
 enclosing walls and for which reason, also, the sta- 
 tions in all cases were off to the side of the towns. I 
 do not recall any city of size or importance along the 
 [206] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 line. When the Hankau district was reached, rice 
 paddies became much in evidence, thousands of acres 
 apparently growing that great Chinese staple, a crop 
 failure of which means famine to the poor of the 
 country. The exportation of rice from China is said 
 to be prohibited by the Imperial Government, because 
 at best it is difficult for the country to raise enough 
 of that commodity for home consumption. 
 
 We arrived at Hankau at ten o'clock on the morn- 
 ing of May thirtieth, and were soon registered at a 
 fair European hotel, the better one of the two in the 
 city being unable to accommodate us. Hankau and 
 its immediate surroundings are said to contain a 
 population of two and one-half million, of which about 
 one thousand are foreigners, mostly English and Ger- 
 mans. The Germans we found a good deal in evi- 
 dence in business throughout our tour with some even 
 in India. Hankau is claimed to be one of the greatest 
 tea markets of the world, the business here being 
 in the hands of the Germans and British, the tea being 
 brought here from afar for blending. The local Vice- 
 roy is a very progressive and enterprising Chinaman, 
 being at the head of several large manufacturing 
 plants. Because of its progressiveness and rapid 
 growth, Hankau is referred to as the Chicago of 
 China. This city is on the Yangtze-Kiang River, 
 which, though six hundred miles from its mouth, has 
 [207] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 an average water depth of thirty-five feet, and as it 
 is said to be navigable four hundred miles north of 
 Hankau, gives one thousand miles of navigable water. 
 Therefore, largest vessels afloat come to Hankau, prac- 
 tically making it a port city. At the time of our visit, 
 besides some large ocean-going vessels there were sev- 
 eral warships anchored. 
 
 While the Chinese as a whole are hard-working peo- 
 ple, those we saw at Hankau beat all others in China. 
 As elsewhere in China, everything here is carried 
 upon the shoulders. Coolies were seen unloading tel- 
 egraph poles from a barge, the largest of which were 
 carried by two men, while one man would carry the 
 smaller poles. In either case the poor fellows seemed 
 weighted down to the very limit of endurance. With 
 various cargoes to unload at Hankau, everything, so 
 far as I could see, was carried through the streets 
 upon the shoulders of men, and trudging along under 
 their burden, there was a constant He Ha, Hi Ho, 
 expression coming from their throats, which, evi- 
 dently, to some extent, lightened their hard work. The 
 native part of the city, like other Chinese cities, has 
 narrow, crowded streets, and as in Canton, has attrac- 
 tive shops, overhanging signs, and the usual disagree- 
 able smell. The foreign settlement is built upon the 
 concessions given Britain, France and Germany, and 
 [208 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 contain many attractive modern buildings and good 
 broad streets. 
 
 A concession is a ninety-nine years' lease with a 
 certain privilege of renewal or the purchase back by 
 China at expiration. Our government has a very cred- 
 itable consulate building, and at the time of our visit 
 a very courteous Consul General, a Mr. Martin. 
 
 With nothing of extraordinary interest to detain 
 us longer at Hankau, we boarded the Japanese 
 steamer Ta Foo, at eight o'clock, on the evening of 
 May thirty-first, for the run of three hundred and 
 sixty miles to Nanking. The Ta Foo had but six first- 
 cabin staterooms, and the first-cabin passengers con- 
 sisted of five Japanese and our party of three. The 
 Japanese officials and passengers were very courte- 
 ous, the ship clean, with very fair service. Of the 
 
 Japanese passengers, a Mr. and Madam M , of 
 
 Tokyo gave us a gracious invitation to visit and take 
 dinner with them when we should arrive in their city. 
 
 The weather, which at Hankau was clear though 
 hot, continued during the one day and fifteen hours' 
 run to Nanking, down the Yangtze. The Yangtze- 
 Kiang, which has a width of twenty miles at its mouth, 
 is from a quarter of a mile to two miles wide from 
 Hankau well down toward its mouth. The scenery 
 on both sides of the river, alternating lowlands and 
 hills, with an occasional island out in the stream, 
 14 [ 209 ] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 seemed to me as beautiful as I had ever seen along 
 any river. On top of one of the craggy islands, about 
 three hundred feet high, could be seen a joss house, 
 and how the devotees get up there to worship is a 
 mystery, so far as I could see. Only two stops were 
 made at landings, though from time to time the en- 
 gines would be stopped while passengers would be 
 brought out from the shore in native lighters. 
 
 At Nganking, a good-sized city, we saw the eight- 
 story pagoda, which the natives have anchored to a 
 house, lest, as per some tradition, the pagoda take 
 wings and fly away. 
 
 June second, at half -past ten in the morning, we 
 arrived at Nanking and looked for the foreign hotel 
 which we were told was there, but instead, finally reg- 
 istered at a Chinese hotel. The proprietor's card, 
 which was written on paper for us, read as follows: 
 "Hang Wan Lou & Co. Chip's Compradore, General 
 Storekeepers, Anglo-Chinese Restaurant and Hotel, 
 General Commission Agents, Hsia Kown, Nanking." 
 
 Hsia Kown (pronounced as if spelled Shaw Kwan) 
 is the name of the town on the river front where the 
 above hotel is located, the city of Nanking proper 
 being six miles away. Having registered at the Anglo- 
 Chinese Hotel, the next in order was to arrange 
 for the visit which would take us to the Ming Tombs. 
 The hotel had but recently been arranged to accom- 
 [210 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 modate Europeans, and as we were the first to come 
 along, there was general confusion in getting us placed 
 in our rooms; then more confusion and jabbering to 
 arrange with the driver of a tumble-down carriage to 
 take us out three miles, at which point we would re- 
 quire horses to ride the remaining four miles to the 
 Ming Tombs. We had gone but a short distance in 
 the carriage when a half dozen Chinese horsemen on 
 ponies came dashing up, each trying to get us to 
 engage his particular pony for the trip to the tombs. 
 So keen was the competition that soon one or two of 
 them, to prove that they had the best and fleetest po- 
 nies, started them running as fast as they could go, 
 then came back to u|, did some more talking and again 
 started their ponies on a wild flight. They did some 
 such reckless riding that Buffalo Bill would have been 
 tempted to engage them on the spot had he been there. 
 Finally, upon arriving at the point where we must 
 take to the ponies, we soon selected three of them and 
 started afresh in the direction of the tombs. The road 
 for a short distance was fair, but soon lead up and 
 down hill along a bridle path. Meanwhile the sun 
 was sending down heat almost unbearable, under the 
 circumstances, and soon perspiration started from alj 
 of our pores, which added fresh discomfort to tl: 
 situation. Not enough with these troubles, my pon;^ 
 persisted in an apparent endeavor to stand on his 
 [211] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 head by first dropping on his knees as he stumbled 
 along. In the meanwhile the owners walked back of 
 the ponies urging them on, but the animals would not 
 be hurried. The one I was on went quite fast enough 
 for me under the circumstances, for, between keeping 
 the pony from carrying out the above acrobatic feat, 
 and at the same time trying to avoid going over his 
 head, headforemost myself, I had more troubles, a 
 good deal, than bargained for. 
 
 After riding for about an hour we began nearing 
 the tombs, the first signs being a lane about a quar- 
 ter of a mile long, guarded on both sides by granite 
 figures of elephants, camels and other animals, the 
 like of which I had not previously seen. Turning off 
 to the left, with the tombs not far distant, we passed 
 between two herculean granite figures (guards), and 
 still we were not at our journey's end. A kind of 
 triumphal arch, then a few granite horses on either 
 side of the way, some Chinamen under trees drinking 
 tea, then up a flight of steps through another opening 
 or gateway, and we were at the Ming Tombs. The 
 latter consisted of a plain brick pile that was neither 
 building nor other architectural make-up. Stone steps 
 led up around the outside of the heap to the top 
 where, evidently, there was at one time a chamber or 
 tomb, but from which those of the Chinese Imperial 
 family, buried there in the centuries gone by, had 
 [ 212 ] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 apparently been removed. There was nothing attrac- 
 tive about the place, but we had seen the last resting 
 place of the Mings up to about the thirteenth century. 
 
 Nanking had been the capital of China beginning 
 about four thousand years ago and up until the thir- 
 teenth century, when it was moved to Pekin. After 
 that the Imperial tombs of the Ming dynasty were 
 built about forty miles outside of Pekin and used 
 until the present dynasty of Manchus usurped the 
 throne, about three hundred years since. 
 
 Starting for the return from the tombs at Nanking, 
 we stopped under the trees where the Chinamen were 
 drinking tea, and where we sparingly indulged in 
 some of the stuff, at the same time listening to an old 
 fellow with a musical instrument on the order of a 
 violin, who was trying to bring out some melody. His 
 willingness, however, and apparent good nature we 
 were required to accept in lieu of music. Going to 
 where our ponies were being held by their owners we 
 started back over the same path we had traveled to 
 get to the tombs, and again passed through our former 
 experiences — a hot sun, perspiration, flies, and my 
 stumbling pony. Arriving at the point, finally, where 
 we were to again take the rattle-trap carriage back to 
 Hsia Kown, that carriage, with all its defects, looked 
 never so good to me. Lest it be forgotten later in 
 these notes, it may be well now to say that that Chi- 
 [ 213 ] 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 nese pony ride of eight miles almost completely dis- 
 abled me for a week thereafter. But I had seen the 
 Ming Tombs, something worth a little suffering ( t) . 
 
 Nanking's population is variously estimated at 
 about one-half million and but about one hundred for- 
 eigners, the latter living in Hsia Kown. The wall 
 around Nanking is twenty-eight and one-half miles 
 long. It was mainly in his conquest of Nanking that 
 the British commander, Gordon, is said to have re- 
 ceived the name of Chinese Gordon. Nanking is still 
 of much importance, Shanghai coming under its jur- 
 isdiction. 
 
 Our hotel at Nanking (Hsia Kown) was a novelty 
 to us. Of two stories in height, we foreigners occu- 
 pied the front rooms of the second floor and the Chi- 
 nese guests the rear ones, an open court breaking the 
 space between us, with a balcony around it. From 
 the balcony we could look down into the court below 
 where Chinamen sat smoking and drinking tea. We 
 seemed curiosities to one another. The meals served 
 us were very fair and prepared in foreign style, in- 
 cluding some beef. The manager of the hotel had 
 seen service as a steward on a British warship, hence 
 his adeptness as to the meals. 
 
 The principal pastime of the few foreigners here 
 is tennis, with a game on the afternoon of our visit. 
 A young Englishman whom we met while watching 
 [214] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 the game, courteously invited us to his bachelor quar- 
 ters for a whisky and soda. The simplicity of his 
 room's furnishings, the rickety steps leading up to 
 it, and the absence in general of opportunities for 
 making life a pleasure, made me wonder that any 
 white man could long endure in such a place. 
 
 We did not visit inside the walls of Nanking, and 
 with twenty-four hours in the place as quite enough 
 to satisfy our curiosity as to the Ming Tombs, we were 
 glad to go aboard the British steamer Tatung for the 
 remaining two hundred and forty miles back on the 
 Yangtze to Shanghai. A dismal rain had come up, 
 hence the Yangtze River scenery lost much of the 
 beauty and charm experienced in the ride from Han- 
 kau. We did, however, go ashore at a place called 
 Chinkiang, where our steamer stopped three hours 
 for a cargo. 
 
 Our visit into Chinkiang was for pastime and nov- 
 elty, though we saw principally rain and mud. Even 
 in this place there is a resident British consul. Brit- 
 ain certainly does safeguard and encourage her com- 
 merce. 
 
 [215 
 
CHAPTER XX. 
 
 SHANGHAI AND THE CHINESE. 
 
 On June fourth we arrived at Shanghai after about 
 thirteen days of the most intense interest, during 
 which we had traveled about one thousand miles by 
 rail and six hundred miles by water in China, besides 
 the six hundred and forty miles up the Yellow Sea 
 and Gulf of Pechili. It felt good, nevertheless, to be 
 in Shanghai where we w^ere to remain four days before 
 sailing for Japan. 
 
 The Hotel Astor at Shanghai gives very good serv- 
 ice and accommodations. A pleasant feature, at least 
 one to make us feel we were again in civilized parts, 
 was the number of Americans in the city and at the 
 Astor. To lounge about the bar of the hotel for any 
 length of time, I am sure would momentarily make 
 one forget they were not in a hotel in the States, for 
 so many Americans were there, and needless to add, 
 also, correspondingly numerous orders for cocktails. 
 
 The weather was sultry, gloomy and with intervals 
 of rain put much of a damper on our erstwhile ener- 
 getic efforts at sight-seeing. 
 
 Shanghai has a native population of about four 
 hundred thousand and twelve thousand foreigners. 
 [216] 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 Because of the latter it is the most foreign of all the 
 cities visited in this tour. The commerce of Shanghai 
 is considerable, of which the opium traffic, as at Hong- 
 kong, is by far not the least. France has a consider- 
 able concession here, with the other foreigners occu- 
 pying a considerable space called "the settlement." 
 Some of the foreign powers, including the United 
 States, have their own postoffice department here, 
 hence, for instance, a two cent United States stamp 
 will carry a letter to the States. So far as I could 
 see. Uncle Sam's postoffice force here were all China- 
 men. The streets in the settlement are good, and a 
 very pleasant driveway takes one out to the Bubbling 
 Well. Along this road, on either side, are some very 
 handsome mansions. Jinrikishas in Shanghai are 
 very numerous, and claimed about nine thousand of 
 them in the settlement alone. Because of the early 
 contemplated building of an electric street car line, 
 trouble was expected from the rikisha coolies, because 
 of their belief they would be driven out of the rikisha 
 business by the electric line. 
 
 The foreigners in the orient have little recreation 
 outside the clubs, hence these are usually in evidence, 
 there being several very good club buildings in Shang- 
 hai, notably the British and German. A letter of in- 
 troduction from a friend at home to a Mr. C— — here 
 opened the way for the privileges of the British Club. 
 [217 1 
 
DOINa OVEE. 
 
 This latter is also used as an exchange where, at noon, 
 
 the merchants congregate. Mr. C also seriously 
 
 entertained me at his bachelor quarters for luncheon. 
 I say seriously, with all due respect to my host, who, 
 though courteous, probably did not more than smile 
 during the whole procedure. He had kindly brought 
 with him a friend, also an Englishman, who both 
 smiled and enjoyed laughter. The above bachelor 
 quarters appeared ideal for such a life, and hand- 
 somely furnished. The Germans were, at the time of 
 our visit, putting up a new club building that looked 
 too much for Shanghai, and I was told that the Ger- 
 man Kaiser was behind the enterprise, which, be- 
 cause of its cost, will impose a hardship upon the 
 comparatively few Germans here who will be called 
 upon to sustain it. The Kaiser, however, apparently 
 believes that the display of the great club building 
 will add to German prestige in China, which, prob- 
 ably from his Majesty's point of view, is sufficient 
 reason for his encouraging an imposing club house. 
 A kind of wheelbarrow cart on which the poor natives 
 ride is a unique affair, built with a large wheel, and 
 a board on either side on which the passengers sit with 
 their legs dangling down. The affair has two handles, 
 extending back wheelbarrow-like, and by which the 
 coolie shoves the thing along. I saw as many as six 
 people being thus wheeled through the streets pushed 
 [218] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 by one coolie. Built with the weight to rest on the 
 wheel, the coolie pusher has only the task of balanc- 
 ing and pushing the thing. 
 
 Few people walk in Shanghai, the rikisha for those 
 who can, and the wheelbarrow for those who prefer, 
 or can not pay the rikisha price. 
 
 The money value varies in different parts of China 
 and is constantly changing because of the fluctuating 
 exchange and value of silver, copper and gold, all of 
 which must be taken into consideration by the bank's 
 compradore. The compradors, of necessity, is a Chi- 
 naman even in foreign banks here, because no man 
 can figure all the connections as quickly and accu- 
 rately as he can. The command, cliop chop (hurry, 
 or be quick), so often heard in China, used mainly 
 to coolies or servants, need not be applied to the com- 
 pradore, who has figured the relative value of ex- 
 change before you realize it. Needless to say that the 
 fluctuations do not apply to the expenditure of a few 
 dollars, but in large sums, and when drawing on your 
 letter of credit at a bank. When giving cumshaw (a 
 tip), the recipient does not trouble himself as to 
 exchange rates, but quickly scrutinizes the amount 
 given him. It is a fact all through the orient, that 
 natives or known resident foreigners are not required 
 to pay as much for anything as do the tourists, hence, 
 when hiring a rikisha, or whatever service, the tour- 
 [219 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 ist is expected to pay twice or even a greater sum over 
 the regular fare. In consequence, the tourist who in- 
 forms himself as to regular rates and pays them only 
 is sure to have an argument on his hands if he tarries 
 to argue. As a matter of fact, whatever the tourist 
 pays below the expectation of the coolie or servant, 
 he is sure to come in for a tongue lashing. The worst 
 experience we had was at Hongkong, and it was di- 
 rected at me, because, at the time, I was cashier for 
 our party. Beginning with the entry into India, and 
 continued throughout the orient, our party would 
 make up a pot, contributing equally, and take turns 
 about paying all expenses. It was my turn to pay 
 the bills and fight the coolies, when leaving Hong- 
 kong. To go aboard ship, which was anchored well 
 out in the harbor, we missed the hotel tender and 
 were required to go in a sampan (a native boat). 
 Having informed myself as to the regulation cost of 
 a sampan for the passengers and baggage out to the 
 steamer, we selected one and started out. Almost im- 
 mediately a demand was made upon us for the fare, 
 which we said would be given when the ship was 
 reached. Arriving at the latter the demand for fare 
 was repeated, but I insisted our baggage must first be 
 taken off, which, having been finally complied with, 
 and our party also off the sampan, I paid the fare, 
 adding some cumshaw. Immediately the man and his 
 [220 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 wife began a jargon of protest, which I disregarded, 
 only watching that the luggage be taken aboard the 
 ship. Perceiving that I meant to give no more money 
 the boatman undertook to put one of our trunks back 
 on his sampan. A demand that he let go the trunk 
 or I would knock him overboard had the desired effect. 
 However, when the baggage had all gone up the side 
 of the ship, and after it a tirade of invectives in pidjin 
 English, and no doubt some hot cuss words in Chi- 
 nese in addition, and taken part in by the man and 
 woman, they followed me until I had reached the 
 steamer's deck. I now believed the incident closed 
 for us, but soon was disabused of such composure of 
 thought, for the sampan man appeared on deck, firing 
 a further volley of vituperation at us, as we started 
 into the cabin to look up our new quarters for the 
 voyage to Shanghai. Having done the fellow no in- 
 justice, I felt no qualms at letting him unload his 
 apparent overcharge of wrath. This incident was 
 but one of innumerable occurrences, of a like nature, 
 throughout our entire tour in the orient. The sign- 
 ing of chits (a kind of I. 0. U.) is said to be used to 
 an extraordinary extent in China and are accepted 
 for almost any purchase, the Chinaman having almost 
 unlimited confidence in the foreigners' honesty. 
 
 The large spectacles worn by the Chinese, who are 
 referred to in pidjin English as four piecee-eye men 
 [221] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 (applying, also, to any one wearing glasses), are as 
 large around in some cases as a silver dollar, and give 
 the wearer a grotesque appearance. The long finger 
 nails worn by the Chinese remind one of some of the 
 pictures of the fellow in charge of Hades. The 
 bearded Chinamen occupy a class by them^selves, be- 
 cause, perhaps, comparatively few in number and 
 because invariably old men, their beard and mustache 
 being made up of very few hairs and these stick out 
 like fine porcupine quills. 
 
 Fortunate, indeed, must it be for the poor Chinese 
 that the laws do not require them to wear many 
 clothes; at any rate the coolie classes wear about as 
 few rags as it would be possible and not be absolutely 
 naked. Whatever may be said of Chinese immorality, 
 they look with horror upon the pictures of nude or al- 
 most nude women, sent into China as advertising mat- 
 ter by the outside world. 
 
 The narrow streets of native Shanghai, like those 
 of Canton, are crowded with its population and at- 
 tractive shops. An interesting visit was to a Chinese 
 tea house situated in the centre of a dirty pool, and 
 reached over light zigzag bridge walks. The tea house 
 was quite as filthy looking and old as the pool, while 
 sitting around, on rude benches, the natives were 
 drinking tea. Notwithstanding its uninviting appear- 
 ance from a hygienic point of view, the whole made a 
 r222 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 rather picturesque situation. A mandarin's tea gar- 
 den not far away had a wholly different aspect. Sur- 
 rounded by a stone wall, ingress is given the foreigner 
 upon payment of cumshaw to the man in attendance, 
 while the plebian natives are excluded. Once inside, 
 a more or less bewildering picture presents itself, for 
 here are a number of small pavilion-like buildings 
 wherein those autocrats of China, the mandarins, sip 
 tea, or watch the dancing girls, or theatrical perform- 
 ance, in a conveniently situated dancing pavilion, or 
 sit around entertaining their friends when not talk- 
 ing pidjin (business). A rather imposing stone 
 structure is said to be the residence of Li Hung 
 Chang 's son and wives. An immense dragon of wood, 
 apparently, is placed along the top of the enclosing 
 walls, with other dragons, statuary, carvings and dec- 
 orations too intricate of description, located around 
 the place, not overlooking an attractive little joss 
 house, the whole making up what might, I would say, 
 be called a Chinese paradise. 
 
 The visit to a public joss house (house of worship) 
 was not the least interesting of the sights seen; in- 
 deed, it was, in a manner, of the greatest interest. 
 With an immense Buddha seated in the centre of one 
 of the buildings, and numerous smaller statues of the 
 saint all around, the throng of worshipers kept coming 
 and going. There were men and women, old and 
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DOING OVEE. 
 
 young, boys and girls, all bent on the worship of some 
 one of the statues. The devotees do not pray before 
 all of the Buddhas, but to certain ones, depending 
 upon what special request the worshiper has to make. 
 A certain statue is said, for instance, to provide hus- 
 bands or wives for those appealing to him, while an- 
 other will hear the appeal of married people desiring 
 an heir. All bring with them an offering, some a 
 candle, which by the attendant will be lighted before 
 the particular statue to whom an appeal is made; 
 others bring joss sticks; the poor come with a string 
 of queerly shaped little paper bags to be burned be- 
 fore a particular statue. Between the burning of 
 the candles, joss sticks and paper bags, a most con- 
 glomerate odor pervaded the place. 
 
 China has a great many Buddhists, in fact, they are 
 more apparent than are Confucianists, so far as I 
 could judge. Strange that Buddhism, which orig- 
 inated in India, should be almost neglected there now, 
 while thriving in Burma, Ceylon, China, Corea and 
 Japan. 
 
 A short, pleasant visit, while in Shanghai, was 
 aboard the American cruiser Cincinnati, which was 
 anchored in the Whampoo River. The officers of the 
 Cincinnati were courteous and willingly showed us 
 through their warship, adding hospitality in the way 
 of some little refreshments. 
 
 [ 224 ] 
 
CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 JAPAN^ THE JAPANESE^ AND OUR FIRST EXPERIENCE OP 
 JAPANESE LIFE. 
 
 On the eve of our departure from China, I looked 
 back upon the visit in that country as second only to 
 that through India in interest; indeed, the people of 
 China, if possible, were even more interesting than 
 those in India. The latter country supplied the great- 
 est interest and wonder in its architecture. While I 
 probably would not care to make a second visit to 
 China, there are a number of cities in India that 
 would invite a second visit except for the distance. 
 Having seen more of China than most tourists, we 
 could now afford to drop the curtain on that coun- 
 try, except as an interesting recollection ; accordingly, 
 on June eighth, we boarded a tender at Shanghai for 
 the twelve mile run down the Whampoo River to 
 Wusung, where we went aboard the steamer Mongolia, 
 of the Pacific Mail Steamship Company, for the voy- 
 age of seven hundred and forty miles across the China 
 Sea and through the inland Sea of Japan to Kobe, 
 Japan. 
 
 The Mongolia, a large ship of six hundred and fif- 
 teen feet length, and eighty-five feet from her bot- 
 15 [ 225 ] 
 
DOINO OVEE. 
 
 torn to the bridge, and sixty feet beam, was not as com- 
 fortable nor as attractive a steamer as the Siberia, 
 because so differently built; neither was the chow 
 (Chinese for food) as good. With all her room, the 
 Mongolia had but sixty first-cabin passengers, but, 
 as with the Siberia, on our voyage from Hongkong to 
 Shanghai, was said to be sold out from Yokohama to 
 Frisco. Yokohama is the jumping-off place for those 
 coming to America from that part of the orient. The 
 Mongolia, like the Siberia, was lighted throughout 
 with electricity, even to an electric bulb at the head 
 of berths, besides radiators in the staterooms, in 
 order that the temperature could be regulated by the 
 passenger. 
 
 Having now been away from home for six months 
 and having already seen so much on the tour, I did 
 not enthuse over the coming visit to Japan. The 
 Mongolia rode the heavy seas of the China Sea with- 
 out much perceptible rolling or pitching. The voy- 
 age was more or less without especial interest, until 
 early on the morning of the tenth we entered the 
 harbor of Nagasaki. As the ship was to coal here, it 
 meant a day's stay, hence we went ashore to see the 
 place, which is said to have a population of nine 
 thousand. Japanese health officers were early aboard 
 the Mongolia, and when satisfied that no plague or 
 other contagious disease prevailed, we were allowed to 
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DOING OVER. 
 
 go ashore. We thus were given our first opportunity 
 to set foot on Japanese soil and to see the Japanese 
 at home. 
 
 Nagasaki is not a beautiful place, but the visit 
 proved interesting, mainly because we were in Japan 
 at last. A pleasant addition was a rikisha ride of a 
 few miles (one hour and a half run) across the hills 
 to a small place called Moji. The latter, located on 
 the coast, is mainly a fishing town, hence also largely 
 dirty. The scenery between the place and Nagasaki 
 as we wound up and down and around through the 
 hills (low mountains) was very beautiful, and as it 
 was the rainy season, vegetation was seemingly at 
 its best. Nagasaki has some rather attractive stores 
 where goodly supplies of Japanese art and curios are 
 on sale. A fairly good hotel here, run on the foreign 
 plan, is said to be one of the inducements to get tour- 
 ists to remain over. More or less of a fishy smell per- 
 vaded the atmosphere in the streets, in consequence- 
 we were already being initiated to what was in store 
 for us all through Japan. At a kind of general store 
 where we visited, I Avas all but startled at the free- 
 dom and seeming innocence with which one of the 
 girl clerks conversed on delicate subjects of the sexes. 
 The girl the while sat languidly on what appeared to 
 be an ordinary wood box. In a languid way, also, 
 she tried to interest the members of our party in the 
 [227 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 purchase of some of the articles in her department. 
 She was rather attractive, spoke English fairly well 
 and even tried German, which she said she was study- 
 ing. Nagasaki has the reputation of being a very 
 immoral town, which is likely as a port city and coal- 
 ing station. The coaling is done largely by women, 
 girls and boys, who, of necessity, must be exposed to 
 immoral influences. 
 
 The coaling of the Mongolia was an interesting 
 sight. On either side of the ship were a dozen impro- 
 vised steps up to the port holes into which the coal 
 was dumped. Backed up to each one of the steps was 
 a coal lighter, from which the coal was shoveled into 
 baskets and these passed along toward and up the 
 steps. Women, girls and boys were closely stationed 
 along the line and once a basket of coal was started 
 from the lighter it did not stop, even for a moment, 
 and was dumped into the port hole probably half a 
 minute after it started. In doing so the basket must 
 have passed through the hands of twenty persons. It 
 took fifteen hours to thus take on three thousand four 
 hundred tons of coal, and probably one thousand 
 men, women, boys and girls were employed in the 
 work. The wages received by these coolies range from 
 thirty sen for the boys and girls, to fifty and eighty 
 sen for the women and men, respectively, the sen 
 equaling one-half cent in United States money. 
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DOING OVER. 
 
 Nagasaki's location and the harbor are picturesque, 
 the latter being well land-locked and it is said to be 
 well fortified. As a great coaling station there are 
 said to be always one or more vessels here taking on 
 fuel. At daylight on June eleventh, we left Nagasaki 
 for the remaining run to Kobe, and my first intro- 
 duction to Japan and its people was rather pleasing. 
 Again steaming out into the China Sea, during the 
 day we passed close to the Straits of Tsushima where 
 the naval battle between the Russian and Japanese 
 navies had taken place. Later in the day we passed 
 through Shimonoseki Strait, a very narrow one, with 
 the city of Shimonoseki on the one side on the main- 
 land and the town of Mogi on the other side of the 
 strait on the island of Kinsiu. Nagasaki, also, is on 
 the latter island and is said to get her coal supply 
 from near the town of Mogi. 
 
 We were beginning to see more of Japan, for all 
 along and on both sides of the strait for miles were 
 towns and villages, with mountains from four thou- 
 sand to five thousand feet high in the background. 
 When, finally, we were through the Strait of Shi- 
 monoseki, we proceeded into the Inland Sea of Japan. 
 Islands, islands, everywhere and in all directions, 
 the width of the sea varying from eight to forty miles. 
 The day, as ideal as could be wished for, and with at- 
 [ 229 ] 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 tractive scenery and numerous watercraft, including 
 an occasional steamer, foreign and Japanese, there was 
 not wanting for good pastime. 
 
 A thirty hours' run from Nagasaki brought us into 
 the harbor of Kobe, about ten o'clock in the morn- 
 ing, and health officers again scrutinized us, after 
 which we went ashore. The inspection of first-cabin 
 passengers all through the tour was not so much a 
 hardship as it was on several occasions an inconven- 
 ience, when, for the purpose, we had been routed 
 out of bed rather early in the morning. The pro- 
 ceeding usually consisted in corralling all the passen- 
 gers in the dining room, when, as their names were 
 called, they would answer and pass out, to be scru- 
 tinized by the keen eyes of the health officers. If 
 the passenger showed signs of illness or disease, pre- 
 sumably he or she would be halted, though not a sin- 
 gle passenger thus held up came within my observa- 
 tion. The customs officials made our coming in easy, 
 looking mainly for cigars, of which a limited amount 
 for our own use was allowed duty free. 
 
 Kobe, with the adjoining city of Hiogo^ is claimed 
 to have about three hundred thousand population, and 
 is the most important port city in Japan. We found 
 a very fair hotel here, as to accommodations and serv- 
 ice. The city has some very substantial buildings, 
 modern and foreign in architecture, and its streets 
 [230] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 were broad and clean. The only object in the line of 
 sight-seeing which we visited was the Moon Temple, 
 located on top of a mountain, two thousand feet high. 
 The climb afforded picturesque scenery, a source of 
 satisfaction for the climb to an unattractive temple. 
 
 As our party was almost out of funds, the first 
 duty when Kobe was reached which appealed to us 
 was to replenish our impoverished purses by the use 
 of our letters of credit, hence a bee-line was made for 
 the bank. The money was now yen and sen. Japan- 
 ese money is made up as follows : Ten rin make one 
 sen, and one hundred sen one yen, the latter about 
 equaling fifty cents of United States money. 
 
 As a Japanese guide is a necessary evil in Japan, to 
 see the country, one of these was fortunately located, 
 and who proved a very satisfactory one, by name 
 Frank M. Toyoda, of Kobe, and whom we paid four 
 and one-half yen a day and railway fare. In addi- 
 tion he, of course, got a rake-off on all our purchases. 
 Probably the greatest object of interest to the sight- 
 seer in Kobe is the great bronze Buddha at Hiogo, 
 said to be forty-eight feet high and eighty-five feet 
 around the waist. 
 
 Having presented three letters of introduction, one 
 
 of them to a Japanese tea merchant, from friends at 
 
 home, I was ready, with our party, for a ten days' run 
 
 back through the country. Hence, on the day fol- 
 
 [2311 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 lowing our arrival in Kobe, we boarded a train for 
 the ninety mile run west to Okayama. In the latter 
 place we visited the tea gardens of an old Daimyo 
 Castle, now used by the military. We also had our 
 first meal {tiffin) in a Japanese inn here, served a la 
 Japanese, and which we were required to eat Japan- 
 ese fashion — ^with chop sticks, no knives or forks being 
 visible. Another innovation to us was the request, 
 before entering the hotel (inn), to take off our shoes 
 and get into a kind of slipper or sandal, a proceed- 
 ing none too comfortable, for the Japanese had gauged 
 the size of the slippers from the Japanese point of 
 view, hence we would have found greater comfort in 
 sizes several times larger. In the slippers we pro- 
 ceeded to the second story of the inn, and when we 
 had come to the rooms assigned us, another request 
 was made to drop the slippers and enter in our stock- 
 ing feet. Holes in socks would have been an embar- 
 rassing predicament, for we were surrounded with 
 Japanese ne san (house maids), assigned to carry up 
 our luggage and see that we were properly located. 
 Japanese floors are covered with mats of about two 
 and one-half inches in thickness, and as the rooms 
 are minus furniture or chairs, we were invited to make 
 ourselves comfortable by sitting or reclining upon 
 the mattings, as we chose. In due time tiffin was 
 brought in on trays, each guest being supplied with 
 [232] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 one, and upon which were a number of lacquer dishes 
 containing our meal. The latter was made up of rice, 
 fish soup, fish (fried and raw), tea (no bread) to 
 which some sake was added on special order. Imag- 
 ine, if possible, a fellow's first effort in downing a 
 Japanese meal with chop sticks. Needless to say the 
 soup could not be handled with the sticks, and as it 
 was a kind of fish consomme, we drank it, the absence 
 of spoons making us strangely resourceful. Sake, the 
 Japanese national alcoholic beverage, unlike wine and 
 beer in other countries, is generally drunk hot and 
 thus said to taste best. At my first introduction to 
 sake, both hot and cold, I decided it probably would 
 be best neither way, and that it could be dis- 
 pensed with without being missed, but it was not until 
 we had boarded steamer at Yokohama for home five 
 weeks later, that it disappeared entirely from our bill 
 of fare. Sake, like other alcoholics I know of, need 
 be but frequently met with in order to get on at least 
 fairly good terms — more than can be said, I believe, 
 of the Russian fire water, vodka, of which I made a 
 casual acquaintance in Shanghai. In addition to the 
 sight-seeing, I included a willingness to taste new 
 things that came under my observation. 
 
 To be required to take off shoes, to sit upon the 
 floor as best one might, and be introduced for the 
 first time to a Japanese meal, appeared to me entirely 
 [233] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 too much trouble to merely satisfy hunger. How- 
 ever, later on in this excursion, when for ten days 
 but little else than eggs and occasionally a tough 
 chicken was added to the aforesaid bill of fare, hun- 
 ger proved a good cook, and even the raw fish served 
 with a sauce proved to be palatable. However dis- 
 appointing the first Japanese meal was to us, it was, 
 at least, part of the novelty that had been courted in 
 the trip we had just started out to make, and which 
 the stop at Okayama was only the beginning. Hav- 
 ing finished wrestling with tiffin and profusely bowed 
 out of the inn with sayonara (good-bye) by the land- 
 lord and the ne san (housemaids) — the latter having 
 been given the expected chadai (tea tip) — we started 
 for the river, where in a native ferry boat, we were 
 taken down about six miles to where was anchored the 
 Eajima Maru, a small steamer, aboard which we 
 crossed the Inland Sea thirty miles, to the island of 
 Shikoku. In this latter short voyage, we saw in- 
 numerable small islands and what is claimed to be 
 part of the most beautiful scenery of the Inland Sea. 
 The weather was ideal and with the novelty of the six 
 mile ferry trip, and the scenery along the voyage 
 across the sea, the four hours consumed on the way 
 to Takamatsu proved very short ones. In the latter 
 place our guide promptly found us another inn, where 
 we stopped over night. The inn was half foreignized, 
 [234] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 hence the meals not altogether fishy, but the service 
 as at Okayama; however, no beds but futons (com- 
 forters) to sleep upon and cover with, and here fol- 
 lowed our first introduction to Japanese beds. These 
 futons, like the slippers at Okayama, were built for 
 those of Japanese stature, hence, when finally tucked 
 away for the night's rest each one of us, if stretched 
 out full length, might throw pins at his toes, which 
 plainly stared him in the face from the lower end of 
 the cover. 
 
 At ten 'clock on the following morning, June four- 
 teenth, we started by train for Tadotsu, twenty-six 
 miles via Kotohira. The attraction at the latter place, 
 aside from the natives and their homes, was the 
 Sailors' Temple, picturesquely situated upon a hill, 
 which meant a climb of five hundred and seventy- 
 two stone steps, — and the day was a hot one. 
 
 As in India, so in Japan, the tourist requires, be- 
 sides a guide, a guide book. The latter is authority 
 for the information that the Sailors' or Travelers' 
 Temple at Kotohira (also called Kompira) is regarded 
 by the Japanese to be the most sacred on the island 
 of Shikoku, and is therefore visited by many pilgrims 
 upon whom the townspeople live. This temple, 
 founded in the ninth century, has (as we later learned 
 is the case with nearly every other temple in Japan) 
 more or less curious legends connected with it. This 
 [235] 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 one also has three live sacred horses, instead of the 
 usual one (alive or of wood or stone) later seen in 
 connection with other temples. 
 
 With nothing more to detain us in Kotohira, we 
 continued our journey (via rail) to Tadotsu, arriv- 
 ing there after a short ride, at five o'clock in the 
 afternoon, where we spent the night, being thus in- 
 troduced to Japanese inn number three. Here we 
 enjoyed, for the first time, the luxuries of a Japanese 
 hot bath. These are taken early in the evening, and 
 our arrival was timely for the purpose. At the inn 
 we were met, as at the previous ones, by the ne san 
 (maids), who welcomed us with smiles, bowing low, 
 some on their knees bowing to the floor, and all giv- 
 ing the evening greeting, kon nichiwa (good after- 
 noon). Our shoes again temporarily discarded for 
 the Japanese arrangement, which for convenience 
 sake I call slippers. Once assigned to our rooms, we 
 immediately asked for kimonas in order that we might 
 go to the bathroom. We began to realize that all the 
 women in Japan, apparently, must wear smiles if lit- 
 tle else, for it seemed that all we had thus far seen 
 or come in contact wore full-blown smiles. This was 
 especially so when chadai (a tip, or tea money, as it 
 is properly referred to in Japan) was looked forward 
 to, the receipt of which, on departure, would produce 
 more smiles and bowing and the oft-repeated pleas- 
 [ 236 ] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 ing grateful expression arigato (thanks), or okini 
 arigato (very thankful), and sayonara (good-bye). 
 So it was with the maids who had brought the kimo- 
 nas for each of our party, including therewith the 
 ohi (sash) with which to fasten it. More new ex- 
 periences were hovering around us, as did the girls, 
 while we undressed and decked out in the kimonas. 
 The latter, like almost everything else intended for 
 domestic purposes, were intended for short Japan- 
 ese, and therefore not to be found fault with for cov- 
 ering us to but a little below the knees. We must 
 have made ludicrous pictures to those maids, for their 
 smiles broadened into grins and frequent outbursts 
 of giggles. They evidently had promised themselves 
 even more sport, for they looked pleased and ex- 
 pectant, and now conducted us to where the bath- 
 room was located. The bathroom, I said, but a tub- 
 room is the better name, for the place contained a 
 kind of tub large enough for two, assuming the two 
 did not each take up too much space. The modus 
 operandi is to first thoroughly soap and rinse one's 
 self, then get into the tub of hot water of a tempera- 
 ture from one hundred to one hundred and twenty 
 degrees Fahrenheit, and remain (if one can stand the 
 heat) for about five minutes, then get out and make 
 
 [ 237 ] 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 way for the next. Every guest in the inn is expected 
 to use the same tub and water. The maids having 
 previously brought soap and towels, stood and looked 
 at the proceeding, as if expected to be helpful in 
 some way, until driven out. If told to get out they 
 appeared confused, or not to understand that they 
 should not remain and see that we did the thing 
 properly. If urged to go they would start for the 
 door, then look around, as if expectant that we would 
 change our mind and have them remain or assist. If 
 commanded to get out they would take another look 
 back before closing the door, and not infrequently 
 take a final peek in at the window before disappear- 
 ing entirely. From our experiences in Japan, from 
 beginning to end, it finally occurred to me that the 
 Japanese women were a mixture of innocence and 
 immorality, if such a combination be possible. They 
 are innocent, because from early training they appar- 
 ently do not know morality, as the world at large un- 
 derstands it. A Japanese conversing with us on the 
 subject argued that while their girls might be called 
 immoral before marriage, he understood that women 
 in other countries were immoral after marriage. A 
 Japanese girl, it is said, can marry and be respectable, 
 even though she may have traveled Japan^ or lived 
 as a so-called small wife with a foreigner, as is fre- 
 [238] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 quently the case, or if otherwise immoral, the arrange- 
 ment for a small wife being made with the girl's 
 mother. Japanese women are, however, free from any 
 boisterousness, so far as I could see. They appeared 
 gentle and even childlike, their small stature making 
 the latter the more life-like. The aforesaid bath ex- 
 perience was repeated, more or less the same, all 
 through the ten days ' trip upon which we had started. 
 Oftentimes the water was so hot that it had to be 
 tempered before we could get into it, and then, not 
 infrequently, one or the other of our party w^ould let 
 out an involuntary howl when getting in. Usually 
 we were about the color of a broiled lobster when we 
 came out of the tub. The Japanese are said to enjoy 
 the water at a temperature of from one hundred and 
 twenty to one hundred and thirty degrees, and some 
 of the tubs, or rather tanks, made of brick, are so 
 arranged that the fire is under them, the Jap getting 
 in when the water is but warm and remaining until 
 as hot as he can stand it. In one of the villages 
 which we visited later what looked to us like an ordi- 
 nary lard kettle was used for a bathtub, and was 
 large enough only for one person to squat down at a 
 time. Our first hot bath proved a delightful surprise 
 and experience, hence we took them daily while on 
 [ 239 ] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 this particular trip through the interior. We found 
 the people of the rural districts friendly, though evi- 
 dently curious of us. 
 
 The island of Shikoku appeared to be well under 
 cultivation, thickly settled, and at time of our visit 
 wheat and barley were being harvested, the natives 
 using the flail for separating the grain from the 
 sheaf, a practice frequently noticeable throughout 
 Japan. 
 
 The night's experience at Tadotsu was much like 
 that of the previous one as to sleeping upon the floor, 
 the short futons and the meals, but an annoying, and 
 more or less amusing incident was added just as we 
 had settled into our first sleep. Japanese hotels, or 
 inns, built like many of their homes, are without 
 doors, and instead sliding shutters encircle the whole 
 house, so that it can be entirely opened up to view 
 or as entirely closed. The incident referred to above 
 was the creaking, sliding noise, made when moving 
 the shutters into place for the night. The girls, of 
 course, were doing the work, and when enough noise 
 had been made to awaken all of our party, there was 
 a chorus of voices demanding to know what the racket 
 was all about, but the maids continued their work 
 until we had been completely enclosed, and to all ap- 
 pearances there was not a door or window from which 
 [240] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 a person could make his escape if his life depended 
 upon his so doing. The above experience was re- 
 peated every night, and always about the time we had 
 gone to sleep, so that we really had to go to sleep 
 twice, so to speak. Japanese novel experiences were 
 coming to us fast, and these few days, beginning at 
 Nagasaki, June tenth to date, were as full of new 
 experiences as the most enthusiastic experience hunter 
 could have wished. 
 
 16 r 241 
 
CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 THROUGH THE INTERESTING INLAND SEA TO THE SACRED 
 ISLAND OF MIYAJIMA. 
 
 Having finished with what we had come to the island 
 of Skikoku to see, we went aboard the Tonegawar 
 Maru from Tadotsu, at four o'clock, on the morning 
 of the fifteenth, for the eighty miles' run back across 
 the Inland Sea, this time to the island of Miyajima. 
 The Inland Sea, in all probability, was seldom so 
 thoroughly well seen by tourists as by our party. The 
 eighty miles to Miyajima represented a zigzag course 
 between the innumerable islands, the latter generally 
 alive with green vegetation or forests, thus making the 
 whole a picturesque scene, added to by fishing boats 
 and junks, more or less, along the entire course. The 
 Tonegawar Maru made several stops en route, one of 
 these being at Kure, on the mainland, where there is 
 an arsenal, and where, also, there were in the harbor 
 four or five Japanese cruisers, two torpedo boat de- 
 stroyers and two submarine boats. All of these looked 
 very formidable, and with the harbor and Kure well 
 land-locked, and for all we knew, what we saw super- 
 ficially around about, was but another of those oft- 
 repeated situations being literally carried out — in 
 [242 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 time of peace, preparing for war. To get into Kure 
 harbor it is necessary to go tiirough the Strait of 
 Ondo, which does not appear to be over three hun- 
 dred feet wide. A Japanese legend says that during 
 the reign of one Kiyamori the Strait of Ondo had be- 
 come filled and passage blocked, and that Kiyamori 
 commanded the sun to stand still until the work of 
 again clearing a passage had been completed; that 
 the sun had complied but avenged itself by taking 
 Kiyamori 's life. A stone shrine on a rock on one 
 side of the strait, probably intended as a kind of guard 
 or lighthouse to the passage, is referred to as Kiya- 
 mori 's funeral pile. It was five o'clock in the after- 
 noon of the day that we reached the harbor of Miya- 
 jima, making the run of eighty miles from Tadotsu 
 thirteen hours of pleasure and very interesting. 
 
 Miyajima, an island only about one-half mile out 
 from the mainland, is one of the three chief sights of 
 Japan, from the Japanese point of view, Ama-no- 
 hashi-date and Motsushima being the other two. Miya- 
 jima is, besides, one of the most sacred spots to Japa- 
 nese because of the sacredness of the temple there and 
 the legend connected therewith. Going ashore in a 
 small boat which had come out to meet us, we were 
 soon assigned quarters in the Japanese inn, having 
 previously been given the usual reception and greet- 
 ing hon nichiwa (good afternoon) by the maids. Our 
 [243 1 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 party was assigned rooms in a small one-storied annex, 
 or cottage, about three hundred feet away from the 
 main inn and up toward a ravine in the mountain, 
 which almost immediately builds up from the spot. 
 This annex, built purely along Japanese architecture 
 and taste, seemed more like a large playhouse ; it did, 
 however, have a table and chairs, all very plain and 
 in keeping with the surroundings. Except for a few 
 kakimonas (Japanese paintings) hung to the side of 
 the rooms, no decorations were seen. No portion of 
 Japanese homes or inns are painted — nothing but the 
 wood brightly scraped — and everything looked im- 
 maculately clean and pleasing. This one, but re- 
 cently built, looked so frail that one can but wonder 
 whether it might not be carried away by the winds. 
 How the Japanese can avoid freezing during the cold 
 winters in these frail houses is a mystery to me. With 
 the beach not more than five hundred feet away, the 
 thickly wooded mountain in the background, a moun- 
 tain stream to one side, lazily finding its way to the 
 sea^ here was an ideal situation, one to awaken senti- 
 mental thoughts in the most serious mind. All the 
 above beauty seemed easily taken in at a glance, un- 
 less too enraptured to see anything clearly. In the 
 meanwhile, as we had arrived at just about hot bath 
 time, we had practically the same experience with the 
 maids and the hot water, as in Tadotsu. Except with 
 f 244] 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 the addition of table and chairs at meals, our gen- 
 eral experiences as to sleeping and food was a repeti- 
 tion of the previous ones on this trip. 
 
 As Miyajima is one of the popular sights for for- 
 eigners, a company wished to put up an European 
 hotel, but the Imperial Government would not allow 
 it, preferring, as we were told, to continue the simple 
 architecture of the Japanese. It is as likely, however, 
 that the government forbade the building of a mod- 
 ern foreign hotel because of the sacredness of the 
 island, that part in which the inn is located being 
 known as Omoto Park. From the sea the view of 
 Miyajima is no less interesting, for with a very large 
 torii of wood, built out into the water as the first 
 object of interest, backed up on shore by the temple, 
 and innumerable toro (a stone post-like shrine), the 
 village and the inn (the latter off to one side), and the 
 mountain of about one thousand eight hundred feet 
 high as a background, the whole makes up a picture, 
 if once seen, for a scenic artist to dream about. The 
 above torii (a kind of gateway to Buddhist temples) is 
 said to be the largest in Japan, and when from time 
 to time age and the effect of the water have rotted the 
 uprights, a new one is erected. This one is built out 
 into the water because of some legend connected with 
 it, and, so far as I know, the only torii in Japan in a 
 like position. Miyajima, according to Japanese leg- 
 r 245 1 
 
DOINO OVEE. 
 
 ends, is dedicated to the Shinto goddesses, and tradi- 
 tion has it that the first temple on the present site 
 was built during tlie reign of the Empress Suika in 
 the seventh century. An ancient religious rule for- 
 bade all births or deaths on the island. Should a 
 birth still take place here, it is usual to send the 
 woman to the mainland for thirty days, while if a 
 death occurs the body is sent across to the mainland 
 for interment and the chief mourners required to re- 
 main away from the island for fifty days for purifica- 
 tion purposes. No dogs are allowed on the island. 
 With its three thousand population, these latter must 
 keep very alert to prevent births or deaths upon the 
 island. Though for centuries dominated by Buddhist 
 priests, the temple at Miyajima, during the separation 
 of Shinto and Buddhist temples, about 1872 was again 
 diverted to Shinto worship. 
 
 Shintoism is little more than nature and ancestry 
 worship, and does not teach any theory of man's des- 
 tiny or moral duty. It was, therefore, an easy mat- 
 ter for the Buddhist missionaries, during the seventh 
 century, to convert Japan to Buddhism. At the time 
 of separation of Buddhist from Shinto temples, Shin- 
 toism was decreed to be the state religion of Japan. 
 Buddhism is, however, apparently too firmly rooted 
 to be easily dismissed. At birth, a Japanese is said 
 to be placed under the especial protection of some one 
 [246] 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 of the Shinto gods, though at death he is buried 
 a Buddhist. This is said to apply to all except the 
 small number who have continued Shintoists through 
 the centuries that Buddhism sapped the Shinto tree. 
 Buddhism came to Japan from India via China and 
 Corea. The temple at Miyajima has no beauty, from 
 any point of view, to recommend it to the foreigner. 
 We were given the opportunity, on payment of the 
 usual fee, to see the temple dancing girls go through 
 some evolutions called dancing. These functions, and 
 such as go with temple ceremonial, so far as I saw 
 them, and the temples themselves, command my re- 
 spect in the same manner that I regard the beliefs 
 of all who happen to worship differently from my 
 own early training, but worship differs greatly the 
 world over. The visit to Miyajima has some decided 
 redeeming features — its beauty, as previously re- 
 ferred to. 
 
 247 
 
CHAPTER XXIII. 
 
 SIMPLE LIFE OP THE JAPANESE AS SEEN BY RIKISHAS 
 THROUGH THE INTERIOR. 
 
 On June sixth, after the usual distribution, by our 
 cashier, of tea money to the maids, and they had 
 bowed us out of the inn with the parting sayonara 
 (good-bye) ofttimes repeated, we crossed, by ferry 
 boat, the narrow strait to the mainland and town of 
 Miyajima on the Sanyo Eailway, where in a little 
 while, aboard train, we went to Hiroshima, about an 
 hour's ride. 
 
 Hiroshima has little for the sight-seer, but was for 
 us to be the starting point for a one hundred and 
 seventeen mile rikisha ride through the interior and 
 primitive Japan. A Daimyo's garden was, however, 
 visited; it was an attractive place, where in the past 
 autocrats had lived and no doubt enjoyed the best 
 that Japan produced. As with the possessions of 
 other old-time feudal lords of Japan, the Daimyo's 
 garden at Hiroshima was long since confiscated by 
 the State and is now used as a kind of military post. 
 At the Japanese hotel we were again met by the low- 
 bowing maids and chorus of kon nichiwas, and in 
 other respects were going through the formalities 
 r 248 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 which were already beginning to seem natural to us. 
 The usual diet of fish, fish soup, rice, tea, and raw 
 fish, the hot baths, also began to be looked upon not 
 with pleasure so much as things wholly a part of 
 Japanese life, which we were sharing from choice as 
 a necessary part of the present trip. 
 
 During the evening, our guide made arrangements 
 with rikisha coolies for an early start the next morn- 
 ing for the one hundred and seventeen mile rikisha 
 ride through the country to Ezuma on the north 
 coast. Therefore an early breakfast and seven o 'clock 
 start began the day's adventures, every man of us 
 and the guide in rikishas, two coolies doing the serv- 
 ice of a horse. The morning was threatening with 
 rain as we left the hotel. The coolies started off at 
 a jogging pace, which they kept up steadily for about 
 two hours. Meanwhile we had reached the rural dis- 
 tricts, and soon beautiful mountain scenery loomed up 
 before us. We had gone through miles of cultivated 
 fields (largely rice paddies), and were now winding 
 up through the mountain road, an extra coolie pusher 
 having been added. Beside the road, close to our left, 
 the thickly-wooded mountain reared high above us, 
 while on the other side and below the roadway, a 
 mountain stream was ceaselessly wending its way 
 seaward, wooded mountains also forming a back- 
 ground. Constantly changing was the scenery, with 
 [249] 
 
DOINO OVER. 
 
 a ravine here, a deep cut there, but always the tower- 
 ing mountains on both sides, except that at times the 
 gap would narrow to a point when the roadway and 
 stream would seem to dispute the right-of-way. Fre- 
 quently the view would open upon a valley, dotted 
 here and there with peasant homes and fields, with 
 the peasants at work. The roadway, meanwhile, led 
 us up and down hill with the stream always as a 
 companion. Japan had evidently not just emerged 
 from a drouth, for vegetation and forest looked as 
 fresh as could be. A drizzling rain had come up, 
 but on we went, the coolies seemingly unconscious of 
 any fatigue. By noon we had gone about twenty 
 miles, passing village after village, and wherever the 
 land was arable, peasants could be seen at work, either 
 planting rice stocks, or with the flail were beating 
 barley or wheat sheaf to separate the grain. In places 
 men were at work with bullocks, getting the ground 
 ready for rice planting, while the women were set- 
 ting the rice plants. The latter is done with the 
 ground covered with water, hence the women were 
 almost knee deep in the mud and water. The rice 
 paddies are small, and from the number of women 
 and girls at work, the planting is apparently done on 
 the community basis, that is, all combine to plant the 
 neighboring paddies in turn. 
 
 A rest of an hour and a half for tiffin was taken at 
 [250] 
 
DOING OVEK. 
 
 a village where a small Japanese inn served our party 
 the usnal fare. The lunch and rest being over, the 
 coolies started off with us apparently as fresh as in 
 the morning. The scenery as we proceeded was a 
 repetition of that of the morning, except that it 
 seemed to grow more attractive if that were possible. 
 
 The peasants' homes looked well built, and as 
 though they could be kept warm with the ten- to 
 twelve-inch thick, thatched roofs, all in great con- 
 trast to the hovels of the peasants in India, Barma 
 and China. 
 
 The Mikado's subjects looked sturdy in physique, 
 and happy if these peasants portray Japan as a whole. 
 As we proceeded, passing village after village, those 
 who saw us gazed with apparent wonder, and if we 
 stopped only a short while we were soon surrounded 
 by the juvenile population, as well as many grown 
 ones. Foreigners are said to rarely ever pass this 
 way, and then, usually, they have been missionaries, 
 of which none had visited here in three years. At 
 seven o 'clock in the evening we had arrived at a town 
 called Miyoshi and where the usual greetings were 
 extended us as we stopped before the inn. The hot 
 bath after the day's rikisha ride of forty- two miles 
 was this time the greatest luxury; even the meal was 
 tucked away with a relish. Strolling around the town 
 after supper, we created no little stir. Two of our 
 [ 251 ] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 party were over six-footers, at whom the Japs would 
 look with evidences of wonder and admiration. Early 
 to bed and early to rise on the morrow was the word, 
 thus with nothing of unusual interest to keep us up, 
 we were soon stretched out upon the ever present 
 short futons (comforters), and with mosquito netting 
 arranged practically to cover the whole room, early 
 morn was come all too soon. 
 
 At half-past six, after a hurried breakfast, every 
 man was again in his rikisha and a fresh start for 
 the day was begun. Villages and scenery continued 
 as interesting as on the preceding day and by eleven 
 o'clock, when a stop was made for rest and tiffin, we 
 had traveled seventeen miles. A misty rain had joined 
 us for the day. Little Shinto shrines could be seen 
 from time to time all along the road, adding much to 
 the impressiveness of the scenery. By half -past seven 
 we had gone fifty-two miles since morning and were 
 now at a village called Mitoya. The inn here was 
 decidedly the poorest we had patronized, and was the 
 only one that did not look or smell clean. We had 
 come at a bad time, however, for merchants were here 
 from abroad buying silk cocoons, and in consequence 
 the inns were all crowded, hence we had to make the 
 best of it. We were here told that no white man had 
 ever before visited the village. The village guard or 
 policeman came to the inn demanding passports, ap- 
 [252] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 parently not being aware that the need for these had 
 been abolished in Japan five or ten years ago. That 
 we were curiosities was undoubted, for the villagers 
 could be seen gathered in the streets looking up at our 
 rooms to get a possible glimpse of us. 
 
 Mitoya and the surrounding country raises a great 
 many silk cocoons, hence silk merchants from all over 
 Japan are said to come here to make their purchases. 
 Needless to say we were all tired out after the long 
 day's journey, and had no disposition to tarry up 
 late. 
 
 Seven o'clock the following morning, June nine- 
 teenth, again found us in our rikishas and the journey 
 was renewed, the finish having been made at noon at 
 Kitsuki, our objective point. We had traveled twenty- 
 three miles since seven o'clock, completing the one 
 hundred and seventeen miles in twenty-nine hours, 
 actual going time, less about three hours consumed 
 in the stops for luncheon the two preceding days. One 
 would think the coolies, who had come the one hun- 
 dred and seventeen miles, would be about dead after 
 the long journey, but instead, they were well enough 
 to have sat up and gambled all the preceding night, 
 so we were told. 
 
 "We were now on the north coast of Japan, on the 
 Sea of Japan. Kitsuki is famous because of the sa- 
 credness to the Japanese of the great temple of 
 [253 1 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 Ezuma, which is located there. It is claimed that a 
 quarter million of Japanese pilgrims visit Ezuma 
 yearly. The town of Kitsuki, with a population of 
 twenty-five thousand, has nothing of beauty to rec- 
 ommend it, particularly, however, it is a favorite sea 
 bathing resort. The temple of Ezuma disputes with 
 those of Ise the honor of being the most ancient and 
 venerable shrine of the Shinto religion. Ezuma, like 
 other Shinto temples we had seen, is made up of a 
 group of buildings, with the usual beautiful hill for- 
 est, including the noble Cryptomeria tree as a back- 
 ground. The temple or shrine itself is plain, and 
 except for the graceful lines of the roof would be 
 lacking entirely of architectural beauty, but does, 
 however, represent the pure Shinto style of simplic- 
 ity of design. Included in the group of buildings is 
 one for the sacred horse (in this case made of wood). 
 Included with innumerable Japanese legends is one 
 that certain gods that roam by night have been known 
 to purloin the horses of peasants or others, and ride 
 them almost to death before morning. Therefore, 
 should the aforesaid gods decide on more such night 
 rides the sacred one is ready for the purpose. These 
 sacred horses, where alive, are objects of pity, since 
 their only function in life is to stand quietly, year 
 after year, with no exercise but to yawn or stretch, 
 if capable of that, until death relieves them. 
 [254] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 The province of Ezuma, like all Japan, except a 
 good deal more so, is filled with legends of wonderful 
 happenings by and to the gods of monsters and speak- 
 ing animals, and caves, through which entrance to 
 Hades is obtained. Susano-o, born from the nose of 
 the creator, Izanagi, and brother to the sun goddess, 
 Anna-terasu, is the hero of some of the tales. The 
 high priest of Ezuma, who boasts of being the eighty- 
 second descendant in direct line from the god Susa- 
 no-o, used to be styled Iki-gami, that is, a living god. 
 The sacredness, therefore, of these high priests must 
 command profound respect from the Japanese. The 
 latter, however, except for the women, are said as a 
 whole to not let religion cut much figure with them. 
 Most of those whom we saw in and about the temples 
 were women and girls. Our guide, however, rarely 
 ever failed, when visiting a temple, to clap his hands 
 before a shrine in the usual way, for the purpose of 
 attracting the attention of the god, and then, seem- 
 ingly, offer some short prayer. The treasure house 
 of Ezuma is said to contain a number of treasured 
 articles, including fine old kakimonas. 
 
 Wherever we have been thus far, we find English 
 spoken by many, in fact, I began to marvel at the 
 number of them, many speaking it fairly well. We 
 learned, as we continued through the country, that 
 English is taught in the schools throughout Japan. 
 [255] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 Our experience in the hotel upon arriving at Kit- 
 suki differed little from that heretofore, except that 
 the ne san (house maids) were more accustomed to 
 seeing foreigners, hence, perhaps, more profound bows 
 to us, and as our coming was at noon, the greeting 
 was ohayo (good morning). 
 
 Being situated on the coast and because of its pop- 
 ularity, Kitsuki has many foreign visitors, the ma- 
 jority coming by steamer through the Sea of Japan, 
 with Maizuru as one of the starting points, and in 
 which direction we must work our way back to Kobe, 
 if we did not wish to repeat the one hundred and 
 seventeen mile rikisha ride back to Hiroshima. The 
 hotel at Kitsuki was, in consequence, more or less 
 foreignized, and we had, for the moment, escaped 
 from the exclusively fish, rice, chop stick service, 
 served in trays on the floor. Shades of some good 
 steaks we had all had in times past were frequent 
 ones, and scarcely a meal passed that some one of our 
 party did not express preference for one to be served 
 then and there. We might as well, however, wish for 
 a steak from one of the sacred horses, assuming such 
 a steak worth the wish. 
 
 Our visit to Ezuma being finished, we started on the 
 
 morning of June twentieth for the return to Kobe^ 
 
 where we had left our trunks for the return from the 
 
 trip we were now making. Some rare experiences 
 
 [256] 
 
■* . 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 were yet in store for us, however, for we were still 
 away from the railroads. The start from Kitsuki was 
 by rikishas for fourteen miles to Shiobara, the same 
 coolies who had brought us to Ezuma again being in 
 the shafts. At Shiobara we went aboard a small 
 steamer, the Noikenkow Maru, and sailed the full 
 length (ten miles) of Lake Shinji to Matsue, a city of 
 thirty thousand population, where, after tiffin in a 
 Japanese inn, we boarded another sm^all steamer for 
 the ten mile run through the Strait of Sakai to the 
 town of that name ; thence aboard the steamer Nagota 
 for the one hundred and thirty mile voyage on the Sea 
 of Japan for Maizuru, Avhere we arrived the following 
 morning at eight o'clock, after a thirteen hours' trip. 
 
 On the trip through Lake Shinji, we met the gov- 
 ernor of the Province of Ezuma, a very courteous in- 
 dividual who had traveled in the United States, and 
 who pointed out such interesting points as appeared 
 along the trip. The scenery, through Lake Shinji 
 and Strait of Sakai was very picturesque, being dot- 
 ted with peasants' homes and cultivated land. 
 
 Up to the present time we had seen nothing but 
 attractive scenery in Japan. There was nothing of 
 special interest in Shiobara or Matsue, except that we 
 proved drawing cards for the natives, by whom we 
 were surrounded as the clown of a circus might be if 
 turned loose upon the streets. 
 17 [ 257 ] 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 The children of Japan were not things of beauty, 
 for, notwithstanding the cleanliness of the grown 
 population, the children, with but few exceptions, 
 seemed to be ignorant of the use of handkerchiefs or 
 a substitute thereof. Strapped to their backs every 
 young girl seemed to have an infant; some of these 
 girls were still so young and while at play the little 
 one attached to their back was at times head down- 
 ward or off to the side or in some uncomfortable po- 
 sition, depending on the particular attitude of the 
 one carrying it. 
 
 One of the members of our party carrying a kodak 
 was kept busy while in Japan, as in fact he had been 
 all through the tour to date. 
 
 A goodly number of the Japanese population of 
 men, the coolies particularly, wear but few clothes, 
 many only trunks with the addition, frequently, of a 
 kind of blouse or shirt. The weather was not yet hot 
 enough for such light raiment for any one not accus- 
 tomed to it. 
 
 The steamer Nagota, from Sakai to Maizuru, like 
 other things met with in Japan, had been built for the 
 Japanese and not tall foreigners, hence the decks 
 were so low that the members of our party were re- 
 quired to walk about in a stooping position. The 
 steamer's cabin was very small, having berths for but 
 six passengers, and with a dining table in the centre 
 [258] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 of the cabin, if cabin it could be called, left but a 
 narrow space between the berths, or bunks, properly 
 speaking. In consequence, but one or two persons 
 could well dress or undress at a time. The Japanese 
 passengers aboard slept somewhere, no doubt, but I 
 was not interested, for with a rough sea our small 
 steamer was cutting discomforting capers, in conse- 
 quence of which I gave up my supper immediately 
 after eating it and soon thereafter sought my bunk 
 for the night. 
 
 Early the following morning, in a bright sunlight, 
 the shores of Japan loomed up beautifully before our 
 eyes. We went ashore at Maizuru about eight o'clock 
 and at once boarding another very small steamer, 
 went back eighteen miles over the same course we had 
 just come, to Miyazu. From the latter place via rik- 
 isha and a ferry boat we went to Ama-no-hashidate 
 (the latter meaning suspended bridge). At Ama-no- 
 hashidate we were seeing the second of the three chief 
 sights of Japan, Miyajima having been the first, and 
 Matsushima, which we did not see at all, being the 
 third. The feature of Ama-no-hashidate is a very 
 narrow strip of land a mile long, covered with pines, 
 between the sea and a small lake. To get the view 
 properly it was necessary to climb four hundred or 
 five hundred feet upon a neighboring mountain, stoop 
 over, then look down between one's legs at the strip 
 [ 259 ] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 of land. In this position the strip has the appearance 
 of being suspended in mid-air, hence its appearance as 
 a bridge, provided one draws upon the imagination 
 to substitute a bridge for the strip of pine-covered 
 land. The general scenery from the mountain is 
 very picturesque, for the village is at the base of it, 
 the sea close by, the mountains far and near, the pine 
 strip adding a delicate touch of what might, perhaps, 
 be called a freak of nature. The whole amply justi- 
 fied the climb to the position upon the mountain from 
 which was seen this panorama of beauty. 
 
 Before returning to Maizuru, we visited the great 
 Buddhist Temple of Chionji at Miyazu, where, upon 
 payment of a fee, we were shown the treasures of the 
 temple, made up of paintings, carvings, and various 
 other things. The chief Buddhist priest also showed 
 us what was to be construed as marked attention. 
 The latter consisted of serving us sweet meats and 
 tea while we all sat upon the floor as near Buddhist 
 style as possible, taking hold of the tea cups, 
 and draining the contents in true Japanese cus- 
 tom — in three and one-half gulps or swallows, the 
 while giving out a queer sound not unlike a gurgle. 
 Our return to Maizuru was like that of coming to 
 Ama-no-hashidate, except that a rain having come up, 
 we were forced into the small cabin of the very small 
 steamer (from Miyazu), where we were required to 
 [ 260 ] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 take off our shoes and sit upon the floor, huddled 
 together with a number of first-cabin Japanese pas- 
 sengers. As I had not yet mastered the art of sitting 
 a la Japanese, my position during the two hours' ride 
 to Maizuru was not a happy one. At the latter place 
 we put up for the night. Either we had become accus- 
 tomed to the unaccustomed, or nothing of special in- 
 terest here attracted our attention, since my note book 
 was silent upon the subject. 
 
 Maizuru, said to be a clean city, is also a kind of 
 naval station. We here enjoyed for the last time the 
 sensation of a strictly Japanese diet, the sleeping upon 
 the floor, and other rural experiences. For head rests 
 when sleeping, instead of the makuro (wood head 
 rest), supposed to be used by the Japanese, we had 
 a sort of short, round pillow, apparently stuffed with 
 sawdust, hence not much softer than the makuro. The 
 latter is used by the girls, exclusively, to prevent 
 mussing the hair. The arrangement of the hair for 
 a Japanese girl is both a tedious, and to them a costly, 
 one, hence the use of the makuro, by which means the 
 hair is said to remain in place for about one week. 
 
 261 
 
CHAPTER XXIV. 
 
 KYOTO, THE SHOW TOWN OF JAPAN. 
 
 At half -past nine on the morning of June twenty- 
 second, we boarded the train at Maizuru for the final 
 ride of one hundred and six miles back- to Kobe, ar- 
 riving about noon, tired, and I, for one, immensely 
 glad to get back. 
 
 During the ten days' round just completed we had 
 only covered six hundred and eighty miles, of which 
 two hundred and eighty-five was by water, one hun- 
 dred and forty in rikishas, and two hundred and fifty- 
 five by rail. The trip, though accompanied by some 
 hardships and innumerable inconveniences, was yet 
 full of interest as it was also of insight into Japanese 
 rural life. 
 
 But the visit in Japan, in a manner, was still before 
 us, for there was yet to see Kyoto, Yokohama, Tokyo, 
 Nikko, Narro, Nagoya, Miyanoshita and others, and 
 only four weeks before sailing day for home. 
 
 The rainy season, by this time, had set in thor- 
 oughly well, and but few clear days were experienced 
 during the remainder of the time. 
 
 Kobe had no attractions to longer hold us, hence 
 on June twenty-third, the day following our return, 
 [262] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 we boarded train in the morning for Kyoto, forty- 
 seven miles away. This short trip was through more 
 beautiful landscape scenery, included with which were 
 many acres of rice paddies. 
 
 A batch of letters from home and friends, await- 
 ing us in Kyoto, dissipated all thought of looking into 
 partly depleted purses until the aforesaid letters had 
 been perused. Happy over news from home, the pros- 
 pect for seeing Kyoto at its best had not the tiniest 
 cloud, except rain clouds and rain, to mar the pleas- 
 ure in store for us. Kyoto is referred to as the show 
 town of Japan and proved so from my point of view. 
 Its show feature is largely its shopping facilities, 
 probably the best in Japan. The city, said to have 
 three hundred and eighty thousand population, is in- 
 teresting as far as Japanese cities go. There is an ab- 
 sence in all of them of any architectural attraction ex- 
 cept for an occasional temple. While the streets are 
 clean, there is here, as proved the case in other Japa- 
 nese cities, the abominable traffic of human excrement 
 being hauled through the streets. While handled dif- 
 ferently and better than in China, yet it does not add 
 to one's happiness if possessed of a sensitive or keen 
 scented sense of smell. Kyoto has a very creditable 
 foreign hotel, the Miyako, located upon an eminence 
 overlooking the city. The service was very fair, a 
 portion of the building new, and all intended to make 
 [ 263 ] 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 the foreigner feel at home. There were no longer 
 beds and meals upon the floor, rice, fish and chop 
 sticks, but real beds to sleep upon, tables, chairs, forks, 
 knives, spoons and dishes, the use of all of which, after 
 the ten days in the interior, proved almost confusing 
 at first. A feature of the hotel is the Japanese girl 
 waitresses, tiny things who seem but overgrown dolls. 
 These girls flit noiselessly about, always in a half- 
 running pace, their slender bodies wrapped in bright, 
 close-fitting, though not gaudy or rich kimonas. That 
 they do not all speak or understand English perfectly 
 does not prevent them from keeping the guests amply 
 supplied with food, even though some of the things 
 ordered may have been substituted by others not or- 
 dered. If reminded of the latter fact, she pricks up 
 her ears, smiles, flits away and brings what was or- 
 dered, if perchance she did not again make a mistake. 
 It was almost a pleasure to have them make some mis- 
 take in order that we might have the above experi- 
 ence over and again. 
 
 The first half day in Kyoto was spent looking 
 around locating the shops. In the evening we at- 
 tended a Japanese theatre, where, located on one side 
 of the balcony intended for foreigners, we had a good 
 view of the stage as well as of the audience. The per- 
 formance consisted of the final act of a play started 
 in the afternoon and a short play on the order of 
 \ 264 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 Pygmalian and Galatea. Though we did not under- 
 stand the language, the facial expressions and actions 
 impressed us as being good. The musical feature of 
 the play was very odd, the musicians being changed 
 to different parts of the stage and alternately from in- 
 strumental to vocal. As compared with Chinese the- 
 atricals, the performance in Kyoto was of a much 
 higher order. Japanese plays are said to be invaria- 
 bly old, historical or mythological. The audience upon 
 the ground floor sit upon the floor in little squares, the 
 separating partition being about six or eight inches 
 high. These spaces (only about three feet square) 
 are intended to hold four to six people, or a family. 
 The Japanese bring their children (one woman nurs- 
 ing an infant all unconcerned as to the surround- 
 ings), besides pipes, ash tray, lunch or cake, while 
 tea is sold them in the theatre. There were frequent 
 outbursts of applause or laughter from the audience 
 as the play progressed, the house being well-filled, and 
 the performance lasting until half -past eleven. 
 
 While Japanese buildings are unattractive exter- 
 nally, their homes are pictures of simplicity and clean- 
 liness. The shops and homes are usually combined, 
 the latter and the family not being in evidence from 
 the shop. Every home appears to have added to it 
 an attractive garden, where are trees, plants, flowers, 
 toros (shrines), bronze or other figures (the latter 
 [265 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 generally cranes), and if possible, a small stream of 
 water running through the place, over which are 
 miniature bridges. Cranes and turtles are emblematic 
 of long life to the Japanese mind, hence these two fig- 
 ures are perhaps the most often seen. In addition to 
 the absence of furniture, a Japanese home, regardless 
 of the possible possession of a large collection of art 
 pieces, has but little adornment, a kakimona (Japa- 
 nese painting, on silk usually) or two and a bronze 
 vase, usually make up all that appears in a room. 
 These are changed from time to time for other pieces 
 brought from the storeroom, where is kept what is not 
 displayed in the rooms. There is entire absence of 
 endeavor to show off what they possess. The vases, 
 either hung on the wall or placed upon a raised posi- 
 tion of some kind, usually have in them the flower of 
 the month. The cherry blossoms, wistaria, azaleas, 
 iris, following each other in the spring and early sum- 
 mer months. The cherry blossoms and wistaria had 
 come and gone prior to our visit, the azaleas, which 
 seem to grow wild everywhere, besides being culti- 
 vated, were also about over with, as was the iris, and 
 though we saw a good many of the latter, they were 
 no longer at their best. The lotus flowers were just 
 about coming along when we left Japan. 
 
 The flowers, though plentiful in season, are said to 
 have no fragrance, and as the birds are said to never 
 [ 266 ] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 sing, the smiling women are offered in offset. The 
 latter would look better, perhaps, without the cheer- 
 ful smile, because the most of them have ugly pro- 
 truding teeth, and are not good looking at the best. 
 
 What would have no doubt amused our friends of 
 the gentler sex could they have been eye-witnesses, 
 was the shopping expeditions of our party after kimo- 
 nas. Twenty-four kimonas and three days' bargain- 
 ing, with thirty-five per cent, oft' the original price 
 asked, was the record, and our minds relieved of what 
 had become a great care. All through Japan, as else- 
 where in the orient, bargaining is necessary, for 
 tradesmen live mainly on overcharging the tourist. 
 
 Our third evening in Kyoto was spent in a tea 
 house, where, as per previous arrangement, appeared 
 for our entertainment five dancing and four gei- 
 sha girls. The dancing girls of from thirteen to 
 fifteen years, in picturesque, bright-colored kimonas, 
 looked as fairy-like as ever human appeared to me. 
 Their so-called dancing was but graceful evolutions 
 of the slender little bodies, swaying to and fro as they 
 portrayed the particular character or characters of 
 some poem. One of the dances, for instance, repre- 
 sented two butterflies, flitting hither and thither as 
 they were supposed to go from flower to flower, the 
 girls the while spreading or closing their arms, from 
 which hung the wide sleeves of the kimona. Thus by 
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 drawing upon our imagination, butterflies were plainly 
 seen flying from flower to flower. The artistically 
 flgured kimonas very aptly portrayed that beau- 
 tiful little creature, whose part the doll-like dancing 
 girls were trying to imitate. The geishas the while 
 supplied the so-called music, both those and the dan- 
 cing girls occasionally emitting a soft but yet shrill- 
 like sound, or chirping, intended to be singing. While 
 novel and picturesque, the two hours' entertainment 
 was quite enough for one evening. Preceding the 
 above dancing, tea, sweet meats and sake had been 
 served us, in which all the girls joined, the dancing 
 girls, however, confining themselves to the tea and 
 sweet meats only. None of the girls could speak 
 English, hence our experience lacked the claimed 
 charm of the geishas as entertainers. There was the 
 usual absence of furniture in the tea house, hence all 
 sat around on the mats, greatly to our discomfort. A 
 flashlight photograph taken at the time, and looked 
 at now, recalls most vividly my soreness as the result 
 of that two hours ' awkward-sitting position. 
 
 A curious custom in Japan is the refusal of tea 
 house owners to accept cash payment for the evening's 
 entertainment, for which, however, an itemized Japa- 
 nese bill will be sent to the hotel the next day, by one 
 of the ne san (house maids). The latter looks you up 
 [268] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 in your room and expects, besides payment of the bill, 
 the usual chadai (tea money) for herself. 
 
 Of temples there are many in Kyoto, a few of them 
 of exceptional attractiveness. One of these excep- 
 tions was the Chinonin Buddhist Temple. This tem- 
 ple, while having more or less the same general ex- 
 terior architectural outlines, possesses a dignity of 
 taste and richness in its interior decorations, to which 
 I bowed in admiration. A figure of Buddha as the 
 central attraction, with attractive overhanging lamps 
 tastefully arranged, the whole enclosed by a wood 
 railing, kept both the common herd of Japanese and 
 the tourist at a respectable distance from the lacquered 
 shrine and him whose figure adorned the place of 
 honor. Immense columns of solid timber, said to have 
 been brought from a distance, supported the roof, 
 which, as in the case of other temples and Japanese 
 buildings, appeared thick enough to be bomb proof. 
 A Buddhist priest was at the time of our visit deliv- 
 ering a sermon or lecture to a group of Japanese 
 (again mainly women), who were squatted upon the 
 matting outside the railing. A very few Japanese 
 were inside the railing and those, our guide told us, 
 had contributed more liberally to the temple that 
 they might listen to the discourse and not be mixed 
 in with the common herd outside the railing. 
 
 Other Kyoto temples of note which we visited are 
 [269] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 the Kiyomidsu, the Yasoka five-storied pagoda, and 
 the Kwanon temple of one thousand and one statues 
 of the goddess Kwanon. Kwanon is the goddess of 
 mercy and that she may be the more generous, the 
 one thousand and one statues (of wood) in the tem- 
 ple dedicated to her name, all have six arms and 
 hands. In mediaeval times a veranda on the back of 
 the temple of Kwanon was used for the practice of 
 archery. The archer, shooting at a mark the full 
 length of the temple (about four hundred feet from 
 end to end) , was required to aim high lest his arrow 
 fall short of the mark, and because of the too high aim 
 of many of the archers, the wooden cross-beams of 
 the overhanging roof are still filled with arrow heads. 
 
 There are many other temples in Kyoto, but not 
 having visited Japan solely to see the one thousand 
 and one temple buildings, I will not attempt any fur- 
 ther description of others seen in Kyoto. Kyoto has 
 a university of claimed high standing. To one of its 
 professors I had a letter of introduction, but the pro- 
 fessor happened to be out of the city, and, strange 
 to say, it was with difficulty that I located some one 
 at the university who could speak English. From my 
 previous experience in Japan, I had come almost to 
 believe that at least every other man could speak Eng- 
 lish. 
 
 June twenty-eighth, the fifth day in Kyoto, was 
 [270 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 spent in a visit to, and return from, Lake Bewa. This 
 lake, about ten miles from Kyoto, about three hundred 
 and twenty-five feet above sea level, is thirty-six miles 
 in length and twelve miles at its greatest width. Lake 
 Bewa, Japanese legends claim, was formed during an 
 earthquake about 286 B. C, at the same time Mount 
 Fugiyama, over twelve thousand feet high, rose out 
 of the plains. Fuji, as familiarly referred to in 
 Japan, is the highest mountain in the country, and 
 is revered by the natives as one of the wonders of the 
 universe. A rikisha ride from Kyoto to Lake Bewa 
 brought us through more picturesque scenery, with 
 which was included villages all along the roadway. 
 Rikisha riding had long since lost its novelty to us, 
 but it is nevertheless a pleasant ride if for not too 
 great a distance, and certainly gives an ideal view of 
 the country traversed. Full of beautiful scenery as 
 is Japan, it would seem needless to say that that 
 around Lake Bewa does not suffer by comparison. 
 One of the principal sights on the lake is the great 
 pine tree of Karasaki, said to be three thousand years 
 old, which spreads over a good deal of ground, a great 
 many props being used to keep the branches from the 
 ground. 
 
 The Japanese are said to be very fond of poetry and 
 constant reference is made in poetry and art to the 
 ' ' Eight Beauties of Omi, ' ' the idea of which, like much 
 [271] 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 other Japanese fiction, was derived from China, where 
 there are, or were, eight beauties, at a place called 
 Siao-Sing. The eight beauties of Omi are : The Au- 
 tumn Moon seen from Ishiyama, the Evening Snow 
 on Hirayama, the Sunset Glow at Seta, the Evening 
 Bell of Miidera, the Boats Sailing Back from Yabase, 
 a Bright Sky with a Breeze at Awasu, Eain at Night 
 at Karasaki, and the Wild Geese Alighting at Kataka. 
 Most of these places are pictured on Lake Bewa, the 
 general beauty of which appeals to the Japanese. A 
 curious mode of fishing in the lake is the arrow-shaped 
 fish traps into which the fish are driven and from 
 which they can not get out. Our return to Kyoto, 
 after a short ride on a small steamer from the great 
 pine tree, was through Lake Bewa Canal, about seven 
 miles long, to Kyoto. The canal, said to have been 
 built by a Japanese engineer who was educated in 
 the United States, has three tunnels through the 
 hills. With a current of from four to five miles an 
 hour, it takes twenty minutes to go through the long- 
 est one. The boats hold about one-half dozen pas- 
 sengers, and during the passage carry a lighted torch, 
 but for which the darkness in the long tunnel would 
 be impenetrable. As it is, the darkness is so intense 
 that the torches appear but a flickering light at a 
 distance of a few feet. Traffic between the lake and 
 Kyoto, on the canal, is carried on through these small 
 [272 1 
 
^{^►i 
 
 -X -4 lis*;'"* .•!■',> ii-'^it-.i 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 boats, which are forced along through the tunnels 
 when going to the lake by means of a rope attached to 
 one side of the tunnel and by means of which those in 
 charge pull the boat through. The fall of the canal 
 from the lake to a point just over Kyoto is about one 
 hundred and fifty feet, and at which point a cradle 
 wheel carries the boat down an incline to and back 
 from Kyoto by means of an electric motor. A part 
 of the canal at a point just off Kyoto runs north, sup- 
 plying irrigation and water power. 
 
 With the abundance of water in Japan, because of 
 its area of mountains, there is little difficulty in sup- 
 plying the miles of irrigation needed for the rice pad- 
 dies and other agricultural purposes. 
 
 It is claimed that from but one-eighth to one- 
 eleventh of the land in Japan is arable, authorities 
 differing to that extent on the subject. Certain it is 
 that hills and mountains seem to be everywhere in 
 the land. The Bewa Canal, opened to traffic about 
 seventeen years ago, is said was originally intended 
 for the purpose of hurriedly bringing troops into 
 Kyoto before the time of railroads. While railways 
 now extend pretty well over Japan, they are of com- 
 paratively recent construction. The canal and the 
 great pine tree were the interesting features of the 
 visit to Lake Bewa aside from the beauties of the 
 scenery. So much of the latter had already been seen 
 18 r 273 1 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 in our visit that the surfeiting point was about 
 reached. 
 
 The Mikado's Kyoto palace is remarkable, mainly 
 for the numerous buildings, all of them having, more 
 or less, the same graceful roof lines. Some of the 
 kakimonas and other wall paintings were very attract- 
 ive and nearly all of them on the Chinese order, in 
 fact, some of the rooms contained Chinese poets and 
 philosophers exclusively. That there is, or at least 
 was, close connection between the Chinese and Japa- 
 nese became more apparent as we went from place to 
 place. The foundation for the Japanese language is 
 said to be Chinese. Everywhere in the Mikado's pal- 
 ace could be seen, in wood carving or other decora- 
 tions, His Majesty's crest of the sixteen petaled chry- 
 santhemum. 
 
 An interesting visit on our sixth day in Kyoto was 
 to the training school for geisha and dancing girls. 
 The latter could here be seen going through the grace- 
 ful evolutions seen in the visit to the tea house. The 
 geishas were being taught to play the musical instru- 
 ments ; all the instructors in the school were women 
 well advanced in years. The pupils were extremely 
 attentive and, so far as observable, never raised their 
 eyes from the instructor during our visits to the 
 various rooms of the school. Many of the dancing 
 girls are said to come from the best Japanese families, 
 [274] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 the hope being that because of their possible attract- 
 iveness they may be selected as wife by some one of 
 the wealthier Japanese, as is said very frequently to 
 be the case. If a dancing girl does not marry by the 
 time she becomes eighteen or nineteen she passes into 
 the geisha class, from which she may still be selected 
 in marriage by some one of the better class of Japa- 
 nese. The geishas occupy the same position, rela- 
 tively, in Japan, that actresses do in other parts of 
 the world, and are said not necessarily immoral. 
 Geishas are put in servitude to parties who make 
 a business of supplying these girls for Japanese social 
 functions, the duty of the geisha being to wait upon 
 the guests and make themselves generally agreeable. 
 The parents of the geisha receive a certain sum of 
 money for the term, usually three years, during which 
 period all she earns in the above functions or other- 
 wise belongs to whom she is under contract. If, dur- 
 ing the three-years' period, she does not earn as much 
 as was paid her parents, she continues in service until 
 she earns her release. Needless to say that if she does 
 not earn well she will be less desirable thereafter. She 
 gets no money for herself except what comes to her 
 in chadai (tips or tea money). It is also said that 
 not infrequently she squanders what she does get 
 upon some lover, and so like some other girls the 
 world over. The squandering of money, as in other 
 [275 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 parts of the world, is not confined in Japan to the 
 geishas, for the abbot of the Hangangi Temple, who 
 was said to be brother to the empress, is in bad repute 
 because he squanders upon the geishas all the yen he 
 can obtain. 
 
 The Hangangi Temple is said to be the largest in 
 Japan, a beautiful building (for Japanese architec- 
 ture), with rich and gorgeous decorations and carv- 
 ings. It is claimed to have taken eighteen years to 
 build the temple, some of its massive, solid-wood pil- 
 lars being wonders in height and circumference. Be- 
 cause of the abbot's weakness, above referred to, the 
 temple is unpopular with the Japanese, hence lacks 
 sufficient contributions to properly keep it up, a great 
 pity because of the temple's elegance. 
 
 On the seventh and last day of our visit in Kyoto 
 we enjoyed the privilege of a visit to the country 
 home (on the outskirts of the city) of a wealthy silk 
 merchant. The home was in charge of a housekeeper, 
 the family having not yet come out for the summer. 
 Surrounded by what looked like homes of people of 
 much lesser quality and with its exterior appearance 
 so like most Japanese homes, this silk merchant's 
 country home was the personification of cleanliness 
 and simplicity. No furniture, but a few kahimonas 
 and flower vases — the latter with the iris, was all the 
 decorations visible. The garden was a picture of 
 [276] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 flowers, plants, a fev/ trees, and the usual small 
 stream of water and several miniature bridges. 
 
 Our visit to Kyoto in interest was an agreeable sur- 
 prise to me, for, surfeited as I believed myself with 
 sight-seeing before Japan had been reached, I feared 
 the latter country, especially the cities, would prove 
 tiresome. But what Japan and Kyoto lacked in archi- 
 tectural beauty is amply made up for in Japanese cus- 
 toms. 
 
 [277] 
 
CHAPTER XXV. 
 
 MIYANOSHITA, THE POPULAR SUMMER RESORT OF JAPAN. 
 
 On July first, we left Kyoto for the sixteen mile 
 railway ride to Nara, where the principal attraction 
 is the Kasuga-No-Miga Temple, with its extensive 
 grounds, its numerous toro (stone lanterns or shrines) 
 and deer. The grounds form a large attractive park, 
 with the usual Cryptomeria trees greatly in evidence 
 in the forest. In one of the temple buildings is an 
 immense Buddha in bronze, thus continuing the evi- 
 dences of Buddhism in Nippon (Japan). 
 
 Hot and sultry weather here made our visit of about 
 two hours in Nara very discomforting. How I did 
 envy some of the bare-legged, half-clad natives in 
 their apparent comfort. 
 
 In the afternoon we boarded train for the eighty 
 mile run down to Nagoya, a city of three hundred 
 thousand population. Upon arrival at a Japanese- 
 European hotel, we were met at the doorway by the 
 Tie san with the usual greeting, this time kon nichiwa 
 (good afternoon), though it was already evening. 
 There seems no word in the Japanese language for 
 good evening, hence it is good afternoon until morn- 
 ing. The Nagoya Hotel was Europeanized to a con- 
 [278] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 siderable extent, hence beds to sleep upon, dining 
 roora tables and chairs. This city is of importance 
 commercially, has an electric tramway, and is noted 
 for its porcelain and cloisonne. The houses in the 
 red light district are large and intended to be attract- 
 ive, iriteriorally, in that the rooms are painted to 
 represent historical and mythical scenes, and in addi- 
 tion, curious wood 'figures representing hunting and 
 war scenes are scattered about. A curious custom pre- 
 vails here with regard to visits of strangers to these 
 houses, in that it is necessary to go to some one of 
 the numerous neighboring tea houses, who send with 
 you two of the tea maids. The latter conduct the 
 curious through the aforesaid house and collect from 
 them tile pre-arranged fee when the visit is com- 
 pleted. 
 
 The principal feature of Nagoya is the castle of 
 the Owari family, of Daimyos, built in 1610 by twenty 
 great feudal lords for the son of leyasu as a residence. 
 The castle is picturesquely located, being surrounded 
 by three great walls eighteen feet thick, these walls 
 being surrounded by as many moats. Its features for 
 defense are so complete as against feudal warfare, 
 that it is said to have never been besieged during all 
 the warfare of that period. If perchance an enemy 
 had penetrated the three walls and stormed the castle 
 proper, which is built of heavy wood and timber, ar- 
 [279 1 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 rangements were made whereby, without exposing 
 themselves to the arrows of the enemy, the defenders 
 could pour boiling oil or other boiling substance down 
 upon the besiegers below. The castle has, on two cor- 
 ners of the roof, what are said to be gold dolphins 
 eight and one-half feet long, with eyes of silver, and 
 valued at about one hundred and seventy-five thou- 
 sand dollars. One of these dolphins had been sent to 
 the Vienna exhibition of 1873, and on its return to 
 Japan the steamer carrying it was wrecked. Having 
 been, with great difficulty, recovered from the bottom 
 of the water where the steamer had been wrecked, the 
 dolphin was finally restored to its lofty position upon 
 the castle. The walls of the rooms in the castle are 
 said to have contained priceless paintings by the most 
 noted artists of the time (1610), but many of these 
 paintings were wilfully destroyed by the military 
 while stationed there early in the years of the present 
 regime. With other property of the Shoguns, Daim- 
 yos and feudal lords, the Nagoya castle was confiscated 
 by the government at the overthrow of the Shogunate 
 by the present regime. 
 
 The Hongwangi Temple in Nagoya is large and of 
 attractive Japanese architecture with many wood 
 carvings all over it. All Japanese buildings, of what- 
 ever character, are of wood, hence little wonder that 
 fires sometimes sweep whole or almost entire cities. 
 [280 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 While Japanese temples suffer greatly by comparison 
 with some of the mosques in India, many of the 
 former are yet very pleasing, even attractive, because 
 of the simple beauty and yet gorgeous interior decora- 
 tions. 
 
 After being bowed out of the Nagoya Hotel with 
 the usual arigato (thanks), and sayonara (good-bye), 
 oft-times repeated, we started for the railway station 
 for the one hundred and fifteen mile trip to Shizuoka, 
 where we spent the night. The principal sight here 
 was the temple where the Shogun leyasu spent his 
 last days, and where a number of trophies of his are 
 still on exhibition. From Shizuoka, a ride of fifty- 
 seven miles by rail brought us to Hodzu, much of the 
 trip being close to, and gave us our first view of, the 
 Pacific Ocean from Japan. Our objective points now 
 were Yumoto, Miyanoshita, and Lake Hakone, all 
 close together. From Hodsu to Yumoto, a few miles 
 by tram car, brought us to Yumoto, where, in a Japa- 
 nese-European hotel, we registered for the night. 
 
 Yumoto, a small village, is beautifully located be- 
 tween the mountains, with a rushing stream (Miya- 
 gino River) immediately back of the hotel. There is 
 a fascination to these mountain streams, that to me at 
 times was awe-inspiring. The beautiful clear water, 
 dashing against the rocks, in the onward rush to the 
 sea, and the never-ceasing roar, loud or faint, depend- 
 [ 281 ] 
 
DOINd OVER. 
 
 ing upon the size of the stream and the fall, was 
 music to my ears. Another small stream in the neigh- 
 borhood with a fall of fifty to sixty feet from the hill- 
 side produces an effect that the Japanese call tamdare 
 (bead curtain) , because of its supposed resemblance to 
 such a curtain. The hot baths in the hotel h^ere are 
 supplied by hot springs, the water being piped across 
 the aforesaid mountain stream from the opposite side 
 of the mountain. The latter rises up almost perpen- 
 dicularly for many hundred feet, and is covered with 
 a virgin forest, fresh and green to the top. The whole 
 neighborhood is a landscape picture of wondrous 
 beauty. The atmosphere, too, was delightful. Though 
 a small place, Yumoto is on the road to Miyanoshita 
 (three miles), the famous Japanese summer resort, 
 and Lake Hakone, six miles further, hence the little 
 hotel here, and used by many tourists, was very com- 
 fortable and the service fair. 
 
 By this time my conclusions were that the Japanese 
 women were the least modest of any we had seen on 
 our tour. This refers, of course, to the women as seen 
 in public, and where it was not an uncommon sight to 
 see them nursing children or otherwise exposing their 
 breasts. The latter exposure was due, apparently, 
 partly to indifference and to their loose kimonas. 
 
 July fourth was celebrated in a horseback ride to 
 Miyanoshita and Lake Hakone (eighteen miles there 
 [ 282 ] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 and back), with tiffin at the latter place, where, on 
 the lake, is a small inn. The day was a gloomy one, 
 rain threatening throughout; the scenery, however, 
 was none the less interesting as we rode up the moun- 
 tain road. Miyanoshita is fourteen hundred feet and 
 Lake Hakone twenty-eight hundred feet above the 
 sea. The lake appeared to be about two miles long. 
 
 As Fujisan (Fujiyama Mountain) is not far from 
 Lake Hakone^ the reflection of the mountain on bright 
 sunny days is said to show plainly in the lake. We 
 saw neither the sun, the reflection of Fuji, nor Fuji 
 itself, on our visit. On the return ride to Yumoto 
 we fell in with a Japanese army officer, whom we had 
 seen on the train from Shanhaikwan, in China, to 
 Pekin. He proved an agreeable fellow and was stop- 
 ping at a Japanese inn in Yumoto close to our hotel, 
 the Tonosawa. Before we left the place on the fol- 
 lowing day, we were each handed a picture post card 
 with the above officer's compliments, who expressed 
 pleasure at having met us. He was at the time con- 
 nected with the Japanese legation in Pekin. 
 
 Japan has some queer modes of getting to places, 
 and one of these was met with in our move from 
 Yumoto. First, the same shore ride by tram car back 
 to the town of Odawara, thence by what is called 
 rikisha tram cars seventeen miles to Atami. The only 
 rikisha feature, if any, about the latter ride is the 
 [283] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 fact that coolies are in charge and push the cars up 
 hill, while on the down grade they jump on and ride. 
 The cars are but little more than boxes on wheels with 
 top cover, seats and doors to get in and out and in- 
 tended to accommodate six passengers. On the down 
 grade one of the coolies is on the front platform in 
 charge of the brake. The ride was along the coast 
 (Pacific), the road ofttimes running along the very 
 edge of the hills, that along the seventeen mile trip 
 are close to the track. Because of the hills and the 
 ocean, the course is referred to as the Riviera of 
 Japan. 
 
 The trip, a picturesque one, took about three hours, 
 at the end of which we were in Atami and soon there- 
 after in the half-Europeanized hotel of the town. The 
 feature of this visit was the novelty of the rikisha 
 ride, though Atami is quite a health resort, especially 
 in the winter season, because of the natural hot baths 
 here and their claimed curative properties, especially 
 of rheumatism. A single geyser here spouts out quite 
 a volume of steam and hot water every four hours 
 the entire year. Another attraction to which the 
 townspeople refer is a great camphor tree. A nov- 
 elty here experienced was a massage given by blind 
 men. The blind of Japan apparently drift into the 
 massage business, a very practical pursuit as it would 
 seem. I will not dwell longer on the visit to Atami, 
 [284] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 aside from the fact that it has a picturesque situation 
 on the coast, hence, also, has a good many fishermen. 
 Small fish in large quantities were seen everywhere 
 throughout the town, spread out to dry. To get away 
 from Atami but one of two means were left us — the 
 tram rikisha or walk, and preferring the former, 
 three hours again brought us to Odawara, by electric 
 car to Hodsu, and rail thirty-one miles north to Yoko- 
 hama. We were told that no railway or electric line 
 to Atami had been heretofore built because it would 
 deprive the rikisha tram coolies of their means of 
 support and because of the latter contingency fear 
 of trouble from the coolies. 
 
 The Japanese are great advertisers, the country 
 along the railway lines and outdoor spaces in cities 
 being decorated with catchy, or at least conspicuous, 
 signs of various kinds. Nowhere, outside the United 
 States, have I seen such close imitation of American 
 methods of advertising. Not having been on the con- 
 tinent of Europe for ten years, except Naples to 
 Brindisi on this tour, I am unable to properly include 
 Europe in the above comparison. 
 
 Japanese thrift and loyalty seemed apparent as 
 we progressed through the country, and Banzai Nip- 
 pon (long live Japan) was frequently heard. While 
 the earning capacity of a large part of the population 
 is very low as compared with the United States, the 
 [285] 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 simplicity, I might say almost absence of need for 
 clothing and the equally simple food product of the 
 Japanese as a nation^ coupled with an entire absence 
 of costly home furnishings, would seem to make possi- 
 ble a saving on the part of these simple people com- 
 paratively equal, if not above, the higher earnings, 
 but much greater cost of all living of the American. 
 The Japanese seem to be hard workers, at least those 
 who do work, and they no doubt are numerous, appar- 
 ently do not have an easy life of it, though not to be 
 compared with the hard workers of China. The 
 Japanese are clearly more adaptable, for instead of 
 carrying everything upon their shoulders, as do the 
 Chinese, the former supply wheels of some kind 
 to carry the burden of weight, while he pulls or 
 pushes it. 
 
 With the above observations oft-recurring in Japan 
 and again during the ride from Atami, we finally ar- 
 rived in Yokohama on the afternoon of July sixth, 
 almost as nearly strapped of funds as a black boss is 
 of yellow ribbons, hence as speedy a visit as possible, 
 after registering at the Grand Hotel, for the bank, to 
 again tap our letters of credit. A person traveling 
 probably never whistles so happy a tune as when his 
 depleted purse has been replenished. 
 
 286 
 
CHAPTER XXVI. 
 
 THE CAPITAI, (TOKYO) AND THE FAMOUS TEMPLE TOWN 
 OP NHCKO. 
 
 With Tokyo and Nikko before us before sailing day, 
 eleven days hence, no time was lost in looking over 
 Yokohama, and on the day following our arrival, 
 aboard train we started for the twenty-one mile run to 
 Tokyo. The fast mail between the two cities, with no 
 stop between them, makes the run in one-half hour. 
 The railway to Tokyo is along Tokyo Bay a good por- 
 tion of the way, hence with Japanese scenery on the 
 other side it makes a very pleasant trip. 
 
 Japan's capital, Tokyo, had been looked forward 
 to in this visit through the country with a good deal 
 of anticipation, because of its supposed attractive- 
 ness, and to me because it was so near our sailing 
 time for home. I was by this time surely surfeited 
 with sight-seeing, especially as I believed that in the 
 main what would be seen after our visit to date 
 would be much in the nature of repetition. 
 
 Tokyo, the largest city in Japan, has one million 
 
 eight hundred thousand population and is scattered 
 
 over much territory. The weather was depressingly 
 
 dreary and sultry. The Tokyo Hotel, which was rec- 
 
 [287 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 ommended to us, is situated upon a hill overlooking 
 the city, a tiresome climb being necessary, because the 
 hill was too steep for the rikisha coolies to carry us. 
 The hotel, aside from commodiously large rooms, was 
 too much like a large boarding house. A new large 
 hotel, it was said, is projected on the spot, which, if 
 the climb of the hill is overcome, should make it an 
 ideal place for those who do not wish to be down in 
 the city proper. One of our visits here was to a cel- 
 ebrated tea garden, which was at the time being 
 placed in gala attire for a reception to a British admi- 
 ral. Geishas and dancing girls were at the time re- 
 hearsing for the coming occasion. Bands of music 
 with foreign instruments, heard from time to time 
 in Japan, and which played largely American catchy 
 airs, such as, for instance, Marching Through Georgia, 
 Dixie, The Suwanee Biver, and others, were again 
 heard in Tokyo. Referred to as the Yankees of the 
 East, the Japanese evidently carry out the idea in 
 their playing of Yankee airs, as they certainly also 
 do in progressiveness in business. In some of the 
 latter it would seem they might equal the western 
 Yankees, if not set a new high record pace in business 
 enterprise. The Japanese are great imitators, hence 
 can imitate anything made elsewhere, even though 
 of themselves limited in originality. That they are 
 artistic in a high degree is apparent in their carvings 
 [ 288 ] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 of wood and ivory, and in bronze and silk work, than 
 which there is probably nothing so artistic and thor- 
 ough anywhere else in the world. The tiniest article 
 of ivory or wood carving seems to lack not the mi- 
 nutest detail to make it complete. 
 
 An interesting visit in Tokyo was to the bazaar, 
 where throngs of the natives were going to and fro, 
 and where there were on sale innumerable small and 
 cheap nicknacks. This bazaar street leads up to the 
 Asakusa Temple, where crowds were going in and 
 coming out, some apparently in devotion, others in 
 seeming amusement. A wood figure of one of the 
 deities here had its nose and other parts of its anat- 
 omy worn smooth, or almost off, by those devotees, 
 whoj in their prayers for relief from some ailment, 
 would appeal to the deity, at the same time rub that 
 part of the god where the devotee's own particular 
 affliction was centered. 
 
 In one of the parks in Tokyo are two trees planted, 
 one each by General and Mrs. Grant on their visit 
 around the world. By the Japanese, Admiral Porter 
 and General Grant are said to be held in the high- 
 est esteem of any foreigners, because Porter opened 
 Japan to foreign commerce and because of admira- 
 tion for Grant's military prowess. The Japanese are 
 a fighting race, hence their admiration for a hero. 
 19 [ 289 ] 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 In one of the cities of Japan, at a training school 
 for fencing and jiu jitsu, we saw young boys and 
 girls take part in the former, while men and boys 
 took part in the jiu jitsu (wrestling). In Yoko- 
 hama, on our return, we also saw the regular 
 wrestlers, the latter taking odd positions, their 
 partly-closed hands upon the ground, like two 
 animals facing one another, then suddenly ris- 
 ing, each would throw himself forward at the 
 other, their bodies coming together with great 
 force, and at the same time the wrestlers would clinch 
 for the throw. These wrestlers are muscular fellows 
 and superstitious, for each, before getting ready for 
 the bout, would pick up a pinch of salt which lies 
 handy upon the ground inside the ring, the belief 
 being that the pinch of salt portends good luck in 
 the effort to down his antagonist. 
 
 The Mikado's palace in Tokyo, inside a great wall 
 surrounded by a moat, can only be thought of in the 
 abstract and not seen, entry to the grounds being 
 guarded by soldiers and menacing-looking cannon. 
 We did not have the pleasure to see His Majesty 
 take his drive through the city. 
 
 Tokyo is building an elevated railroad and very 
 substantially of brick construction. Some of its pub- 
 lic buildings are of modern foreign design and look 
 out of place with the Japanese architecture thickly 
 [290] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 scattered all around. Needless to say that Tokyo, 
 apparently, has its proportion of temples, and a good 
 deal less needful, perhaps, to say that we did not 
 hunt up all of them. 
 
 During our visit in Tokyo, a British admiral also 
 visited there, and at the time of his arrival by train 
 a crowd of a few hundred Japanese gathered around 
 the railway station streets. As the carriages con- 
 taining the admiral and his suite passed through 
 the streets, there was some cheering^ and an occa- 
 sional Banzai Nippon (long live Japan). The cheer- 
 ing did not, however, appear to have very much en- 
 thusiasm. We had gone to the station expectant that 
 Admiral Togo (whose guest the British admiral was 
 to be) would be seen, but our curiosity in that direc- 
 tion was not gratified, since Togo had not come down 
 to the station. 
 
 The yoshi-wara (red-light district) in Tokyo is a 
 revelation in its regulation and the number (said to 
 be seven thousand) of licensed inmates. Street after 
 street of buildings (three stories usually) brightly 
 lighted, with the inmates sitting upon the floor in 
 rows in what might be called large cages with bars, 
 facing the streets. Some of the inmates were still 
 putting the finishing touches of powder or paint upon 
 their faces, others quietly smoking the very small 
 Japanese pipes, others apparently in abstracted 
 [291] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 thought, while some are quick to engage the passerby 
 in conversation if half an opportunity is given them. 
 Along the streets the public, including men, women, 
 boys and girls, parade, looking at the unfortunates 
 behind the bars. We saw two Japanese girls of evi- 
 dent genteel and refined make-up calmly passing 
 along the street as intently viewing the yoshi-wara 
 girls as though there was nothing unusual or unlikely 
 in it. The geisha district, like that of the yoshi-wara, 
 is also a place set aside exclusively for them. In 
 their charges for entertainment at tea parties and 
 dinners, the geishas, like actresses, command prices 
 according to their popularity and fitness to entertain 
 the guests. 
 
 Our visit to Tokyo, though including some features 
 of Japanese life not heretofore met with, came to an 
 end after three days, when on the morning of July 
 tenth we boarded train for the ninety miles ' run north 
 to Nikko. 
 
 Nikko is the temple show town of Japan. The rail- 
 way in places parallels the famous Cryptomeria ave- 
 nue, said to be about thirty miles in length. Our 
 hotel in Nikko was very comfortable and attractively 
 located. The town of but one street is strung along 
 about two miles. In its course the street crosses the 
 bridge of the beautiful Daiya-Gawa River as it winds, 
 seaward, down through the mountain. It is here the 
 [292 1 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 famous lacquer bridge, destroyed a few years since 
 by river freshets but being now rebuilt, is located. 
 A curious legend is connected with the original bridge 
 which was built commemoratively. Shodo Shonin, 
 a Buddhist priest, about 767 A. D., while chasing 
 a rainbow or a dream, came to the river which barred 
 his passage and threatened his destruction. While 
 at prayer a supernatural being of colossal size ap- 
 peared and promised aid. Acting upon a sugges- 
 tion, the saint (Shodo Shonin) at once threw two 
 snakes across the stream and upon these there ap- 
 appeared a fairy-like bridge structure across which 
 Shodo Shonin walked in simple faith, the snakes and 
 bridge disappearing immediately thereafter. The 
 lacquer bridge in consequence is held very sacred to 
 his memory by the Japanese, 
 
 Nikko is two thousand feet above the sea level, 
 with high hills in every direction. Its situation and 
 surrounding beauty seem incomparable. The street 
 for several blocks from the hotel is lined on both 
 sides with bazaars to tempt the tourist, especially 
 those after cheap curios, though several bazaars have 
 very attractive and costly stocks of carved ivory, 
 wood, bronzes and silks. The tourist has difficulty 
 passing the bazaars without being importuned to come 
 in and examine stocks. He is urged to come in, he 
 need not buy, just come in and look around, but 
 ' r 293 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 once in he is as strongly urged to buy this, that, or 
 the other article shown. 
 
 The location of the temples upon the side of a 
 hill well up over the town and reached by stone 
 steps after a long climb, is through a forest of stately 
 Cryptomeria trees. Some of these noble denizens of 
 the forest are of incomparable grandeur. All vege- 
 tation, here as elsewhere in Japan during our visit, 
 appeared at its best. The stone steps, leading up to 
 the temples, are moss-covered, affording a view well 
 worth the climb. Many people rave in enthusiasm 
 over Nikko and the temples, and though already over- 
 charged with surfeit of seeing things beautiful, I 
 could still absorb pleasure and admiration from the 
 surroundings. A Japanese popular proverb says : 
 ''Do not use the word magnificent till you have seen 
 Nikko." I do not know but they are nearly correct 
 as applying the term to nature's scenery. The tem- 
 ples, situated in the midst of all the beauty, them- 
 selves add to it. There are Shinto and Buddhist tem- 
 ples, the former dating back to the earliest centuries, 
 while the Buddhist shrines began with the coming 
 of Buddhist missionaries about one thousand two hun- 
 dred years since. These temples have much the gen- 
 eral design of architecture prevalent throughout 
 Japan, added to which are many grotesque wood carv- 
 ings. The interior is rich in gold and lacquer deco- 
 r 294 1 " 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 rations, and in one of them some exquisite wood carv- 
 ings. To attempt a detailed description would require 
 too much space and greater ability than mine. Situ- 
 ated in the group are the temples and mausoleum of 
 leyasu and his grandson lemitsu. leyasu was the 
 first of the Shoguns and founder of the Tokugawa 
 family of Shoguns. A five-storied pagoda of graceful 
 form is also included in the temple grounds. An im- 
 mense granite torii, twenty-seven feet high, is one of 
 the striking features which meet the eyes as one enters 
 the temple collection. Of the numerous wood figures 
 which adorn the temples is one, a mythological ani- 
 mal called baku, said to have been brought from 
 China and which Chinese classical books are said to 
 describe as resembling a wolf with the trunk of an 
 elephant, eyes of a rhinoceros, the tail of a bull and 
 the legs of a tiger. It is credited with the power to 
 avert evil and is therefore sometimes depicted in gold 
 or lacquer upon the pillows used by the nobility, be- 
 cause of its credited power to devour any bad dreams 
 that may pass before their sleeping eyes. 
 
 More or less constant heavy rains interfered with 
 our visits to nearby attractions, such as Lake Chu- 
 zenji, and several waterfalls, and was besides the 
 means of driving us out of Nikko at the end of three 
 days (when a drenching rain was in progress) for 
 the return to Yokohama via Tokyo. Thus on July 
 [295 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 thirteenth, we were again in Yokohama. The latter 
 has a population of about three hundred thousand, 
 with a large foreign contingent, of whom two thou- 
 sand are said to be Americans. In appearance, Yoko- 
 hama is the most foreign of any city in Japan, be- 
 cause of the great number of buildings of foreign 
 architecture. Indeed, in and close around the Grand 
 Hotel one might be lead to forget they were in Japan 
 so far as the buildings are concerned. The city is 
 both the port of entry and departure for most for- 
 eigners who come to Japan. The Grand Hotel is 
 decidedly foreign, in fact, is managed by an Amer- 
 ican, and at the time of our visit was so full of our 
 countrymen that one might have thought himself 
 in America. While the waiters and clerks were Japa- 
 nese, the comprador e (cashier) was a Chinaman. Be- 
 cause of his honesty, many of the trusted positions 
 in Japanese counting houses are in charge of Chi- 
 nese, who look after the cash. The Grand Hotel is 
 located on the water front from which the numerous 
 watercraft in Yokohama Bay are constantly in sight. 
 The Japanese government, it is said, owns the most 
 of the large Japanese enterprises in the country and 
 is bent on owning everything worth it and making 
 monopolies of them. Yokohama has little to attract 
 the foreigner, once he has made such a round of the 
 country as we had. The city is nicely located with 
 [296 1 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 some of the attractive homes on a nearby hill. Lo- 
 cated on Tokyo Bay, it is about twenty-five miles 
 from the ocean. » 
 
 A good part of one day was taken up in a visit 
 to Enoshima and Kamakura. At the former place is a 
 rock cave, into a part of which the ocean breakers 
 are sent at high tide. A Japanese legend says that 
 before the existence of Enoshima, the site of the pres- 
 ent cave was the abode of a dragon which used to 
 devour children of the neighborhood ; that in the sixth 
 century, during a violent earthquake, the goddess 
 Benten appeared in the clouds over the spot inhabited 
 by the dragon ; that the island of Enoshima suddenly 
 arose from the waters and the goddess descended to 
 it, married the dragon and put an end to his ravages 
 of children. Japanese mythology is chock full of 
 legends. 
 
 Kamakura, four miles away from Enoshima, was 
 once a populous city of one million people, which 
 was swept away by fire and sword and is now only 
 a seaside village, though a favorite resort for Yoko- 
 hama residents. The chief sights in Kamakura are 
 the Daihutsu, or colossal bronze figure of Buddha, 
 great image of the goddess Kwanon and temple of 
 Hachiman. The Daihutsu is a wonderful piece of 
 work because of its size, and the peaceful expression 
 on the face of the saint. Its height is over forty-nine 
 [ 297 ] 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 feet, with a circumference of over ninety-seven feet, 
 length of face eight feet, width from ear to ear over 
 seventeen feet, length of eye one foot three inches, 
 of ear six feet six inches, and of nose three feet nine 
 inches. The eyes are said to be of pure gold. The 
 image is formed of sheets of bronze cast separately, 
 brazed together. Originally enclosed in a building 
 which was several times destroyed, the Daihutsu is 
 now exposed to the elements, though it shows no signs 
 of discomfort on that or any other account. The 
 temple of Kwanon near by contains the great image 
 of the goddess of Mercy behind folding doors, which 
 a small fee to the attendant priest suffices to open. 
 The figure, said to be of one piece of wood, is over 
 thirty feet in height and is covered with lacquer 
 gilded over. Whether the goddess is a thing of 
 beauty it was impossible to see because her face is so 
 high and because of the faint light produced by can- 
 dles, by the aid of which the figure must be seen. In 
 one of the temple grounds is a good-sized rock which 
 has upon it a more or less imaginary resemblance to 
 one of the female organs, hence is referred to by the 
 Japanese as a female rock. That the latter may not 
 be lonesome, another rock of about the same size was 
 placed along side, and which is supposed to belong 
 to the male persuasion. In another temple is the cel- 
 ebrated image of Emma-0, Regent or King of Hell. 
 r 298 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 A legend says of this image that a celebrated wood 
 carver, named Unkei, having died, appeared in due 
 course before the above regent who thus accosted 
 him : Thou hast carved many images of me, but never 
 a true one. Now that thou hast seen my face return 
 to earth and show me as I am. So Unkei, coming to 
 life again, carved this image and which is therefore 
 referred to as the work of Unkei, redivivus (come 
 into existence again). Innumerable grotesque images 
 make up the collection contained in the temples of 
 Kamakura. We found our way back to Yokohama 
 on the same evening without having lost ourselves 
 in such deified surroundings. 
 
 With the visit to Kamakura we had finished sight- 
 seeing in Japan, and as it was now July sixteenth, 
 hence the very eve of departure for home, many re- 
 flections of the visit in the orient crowded them- 
 selves before my vision. I found myself making com- 
 parisons with the interesting features of the tour as 
 between India, China and Japan, the former of 
 which had, up to the moment, occupied the leading 
 position as the country of most intense interest. In a 
 manner I hold to the latter conclusions as to the in- 
 tensity of interest, but the Japanese characteristics 
 seem to have forged ahead as having supplied the 
 greatest number of amusing, as well as pleasing, inci- 
 dents, while the interest in India was in its wonder- 
 r 299 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 ful architecture, its conglomerate population of sev- 
 enty or more different races, its historical features, 
 its Hindu fanatical life, and many other things. 
 China thus comes third in interest, from my point of 
 view, with, however, the fact before me that in neither 
 China nor India did we see nearly so much of the 
 manner of living and closer characteristics of the peo- 
 ple as in Japan. Could these latter privileges have 
 applied, in India, especially, much more could have 
 been added in these notes on that country. As com- 
 pared with a serious population in India, where 
 famine and plague and poverty always hover close to 
 hand, the Japanese seem thrifty, and they also ap- 
 peared happy rather than serious. At that, very 
 much more might undoubtedly be said of Japan by 
 one making both a study of the subject and longer 
 visit, instead of a five-weeks' stay and notes made 
 from casual observation, the guide book and hearsay. 
 The keenness of the Japanese after knowledge, for 
 one thing, brings them into closer touch with foreign- 
 ers than do any of the orientals met with in this tour, 
 hence, also, the foreigner gets nearer to the Japanese 
 life and characteristics. Their keenness in the above 
 is observable in the boys and girls who scrutinize ev- 
 erything new that comes under their observation, the 
 boys particularly being bold rather than timid about 
 it. How like boys the world over. The claim that 
 [300] 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 human nature the world over is more or less the same 
 must have suggested itself from observation of chil- 
 dren. These latter, whether in India, Burma, China, 
 the Philippines, Japan, or elsewhere in the orient, 
 while at play have their childish quarrels, an elder 
 child girl is seen guarding a younger child brother, or 
 vice versa, and all as human as if bom in our coun- 
 try or other lands. That they should grow to man- 
 hood or womanhood much as humans of other parts 
 of the world resolves itself into a simple conclusion. 
 From the oriental point of view the standard of hu- 
 manity as well as of religion begins at home. So then, 
 there you are, and who has the deciding vote? With 
 the end of our visit in Japan also disappear the bow- 
 ing ne san (house maids), and no longer do we hear 
 the pleasing sound of ohayo (good morning), hon 
 nichiwa (good afternoon), arigato (thank you), or 
 okini arigato (thank you very much). 
 
 301 
 
CHAPTER XXVII. 
 
 THE FIFTY-FOUR HUNDRED MILE VOYAGE, YOKOHAMA TO 
 SAN FRANCISCO. 
 
 July seventeenth and sailing day for home. Home, 
 how good the word did sound after six and one-half 
 months' absence, interest, pleasure, discomfort and 
 hardships. The last visit to a bank in the orient had 
 been made in Yokohama for the purpose of converting 
 our remaining Japanese yen into Uncle Sam's money 
 and to replenish our purses by a final draft upon our 
 letters of credit. Why replenish purses at this time? 
 Because of the prospect that Uncle Sam's customs 
 officers at Frisco would demand some money as duty 
 on our curio bargains ( ?) which we had picked up 
 on the tour. Strange to say the foreign and Japa- 
 nese banks had but little of United States money on 
 hand, to get which we were required to go to private 
 Chinese money brokers. 
 
 While Japan is said to constantly have earthquakes, 
 and if reports be true must have had them right along 
 during our visit, none of them were of sufficient force 
 to have been observable to our party. 
 
 We went aboard the Manchuria at half-past two 
 in the afternoon, for the long pull of seventeen days 
 r 302 1 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 to San Francisco. The day was the most beautiful 
 experienced since the day we came through Shimono- 
 seki Strait for the visit to Japan. As we steamed 
 away from the harbor of Yokohama, Fuji Mountain, 
 with its cap of snow, could be plainly seen forty- 
 seven miles away. For several hours, too, the hills on 
 both sides of the course down the bay could be seen, 
 then on one side only, and finally land had disap- 
 peared entirely, and we now faced the prospect of 
 nothing but sky and water, with the possible excep- 
 tion of an occasional vessel or small island, until 
 Honolulu (three thousand three hundred and ninety- 
 nine miles) is reached, ten days hence. 
 
 Beginning with my departure from Chicago to 
 New York, thence to Naples, we had been steadily fol- 
 lowing the rising sun, except for sundry side trips — 
 and when from time to time the steamer's course tem- 
 porarily lay north or south. 
 
 The Manchuria, as sister ship to the Mongolia 
 (which had brought us from Shanghai to Kobe) , was 
 of the same size and build. Our passenger list now 
 consisted of one hundred and eighteen first-cabin 
 and eight hundred steerage, the latter almost entirely 
 Japanese coolies bound for the Hawaiian Islands. 
 With home as the objective point, time for the first 
 time aboard ship dragged slowly, intensified by a 
 quiet passenger contingent. The latter, made up 
 [303 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 largely of Americans returning home, and appar- 
 ently tired out by sight-seeing, or for whatever rea- 
 son, seemed little disposed to liven up. Each day 
 brought us about three hundred and fifty miles nearer 
 Frisco. Our party had in this round-the-world tour 
 visited, or gone ashore for short periods, fifteen dif- 
 ferent countries — Spain at Gibraltar (English pos- 
 session), Italy, Egypt (at Port Said), India, Burma, 
 Ceylon, the Malay Peninsula at Penang, Singa- 
 pore, Jahore, one-half day, Java, the Philippines, 
 China, Manchuria (at Shanhaikwan, where the Great 
 Wall separates China from Manchuria), Japan, and 
 the Hawaiian Islands at Honolulu. The longest 
 time in any one country was India, where forty- 
 five days were spent, twenty-nine cities visited and 
 five thousand six hundred miles traveled by rail, 
 besides several hundred miles in native vehicles to 
 out of way places. Thirty-seven days had been spent 
 in Japan and thirty cities visited, about one thou- 
 sand miles traveled by rail, one hundred and 
 fifty miles in rikishas, in out of way places, and about 
 three hundred and fifty miles by water and twenty- 
 five miles on horseback. Twenty-five days spent in 
 China, ten cities visited, one thousand miles traveled 
 by rail and about one thousand by water. Traveled 
 eight hundred miles in Burma, visited two cities, re- 
 mained five days. Ten days in Ceylon, visited three 
 [304] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 cities. Five days in Java and four cities visited. Five 
 days in the Philippines, at Manila and surrounding 
 towns. In all, we visited about one hundred towns and 
 cities. Including the Manchuria, we had been upon 
 twenty-seven different ships, large and small (not 
 counting return trips on three or four of them) . We 
 had, besides, voyaged on twenty-three different bodies 
 of water, large and small, including the Yangtze- 
 Kiang and Pearl Rivers in China, and Pasig River 
 in the Philippines. The principal bodies of water 
 from start to finish were : The Atlantic Ocean, three 
 thousand two hundred miles (New York to Gibral- 
 tar) ; the Mediterranean, one thousand miles (Gib- 
 raltar to Naples) and nine hundred and thirty-six 
 miles from Brindisi to Port Said; Suez Canal, one 
 hundred miles ; Gulf of Suez and Red Sea, one thou- 
 sand three hundred miles ; Arabian Sea, one thousand 
 six hundred and forty miles (Aden to Bombay) ; Gulf 
 of Cambay, one hundred and fifteen miles; Bay of 
 Bengal, one thousand six hundred and seventy miles 
 (Calcutta to Rangoon and back to Madras) ; Gulf of 
 Manar, one hundred and fifty miles (Tuticorin to 
 Colombo) ; Indian Ocean and Malacca Strait, one 
 thousand six hundred and seventy miles (Colombo 
 to Singapore) ; Java Sea, one thousand and sixty-five 
 miles (Singapore to Java and back) ; China Sea, one 
 thousand four hundred and forty miles (Singapore 
 20 [ 305 ] 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 to Hongkong) and Hongkong to Manila and return, 
 one thousand two hundred and eighty miles ; Eastern 
 Sea, eight hundred and sixty miles (Hongkong to 
 Shanghai) ; Yellow Sea and Gulf of Pechili, six 
 hundred and forty miles (Shanghai to Chinwangt,ao, 
 China) ; Yangtze-Kiang, six hundred miles (Hankau 
 to Nanking and back to Shanghai) ; Yellow Sea and 
 Inland Sea of Japan, seven hundred and forty miles 
 (Shanghai to Kobe) ; Japan Sea, one hundred and 
 thirty miles (Sakai to Maizuru) ; and Pacific Ocean, 
 three thousand three hundred miles (Yokohama to 
 Honolulu), thence to Frisco, two thousand one hun- 
 dred miles. All told, we had, from start to finish, cov- 
 ered twenty-four thousand two hundred and twenty 
 knots, or about twenty-seven thousand land miles, by 
 water, besides about thirteen thousand miles by land, 
 beginning with my departure from Chicago and re- 
 turn thereto, or a grand total of about forty thou- 
 sand miles. The trip had taken just seven months, 
 during which time we had been aboard ship, off 
 and on, ninety-five days and five hours. The long- 
 est runs without stop were from New York to Gibral- 
 tar and Yokohama to Honolulu, each of about ten 
 days. To comprehend what all the above figures 
 mean, or to properly appreciate what may be seen in 
 such a tour, one must go, see, and experience for him- 
 self. Vivid as may be my own picture of what was 
 [ 306] 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 seen and experienced, the efforts in these notes at de- 
 scription are at best but meagre after all. With 
 Honolulu and Frisco still to see, I had somewhat 
 anticipated the finish in the above, but as time on 
 the Manchuria passed slowly, it was in the nature of 
 pastime at the time to have computed the figures of 
 mileage, hence reference thereto at this time. As to 
 the apparent dullness of the Manchuria's passengers, 
 it was pretty generally agreed that but for the pres- 
 ence of a certain high officer of the United States 
 army, and his family, the surrounding atmosphere 
 would have been much less frigid. These frigid ones 
 appeared, from their bearing, to believe they exhaled 
 with every breath a purer exhausted oxygen than 
 does the merely American citizen. Pity 'tis that the 
 glory of our country must have as barnacles a coterie 
 who practice a studied snobbishness rather than a 
 becoming dignity. A personal grievance on this voy- 
 age and uninvited would justify a harsher criticism 
 of the aforesaid, but the army will be the army. But 
 to get back to the voyage on the Manchuria, the 
 weather between Yokohama and Honolulu, as a whole, 
 was pleasant, and as we were aboard a large ship 
 the entire absence of pacific conditions of the water 
 brought few, if any, of the passengers great discom- 
 fort. 
 
 As I look back over the days spent aboard ship on 
 [307] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 this tour, it occurs to me that life was alternately a 
 pleasure and admixture of dullness. The latter the 
 exception because I had learned to rather enjoy being 
 aboard ship regardless of the passengers. A poor 
 mixer myself, conditions may have seemed dull to me 
 at times while others were happy. That the Pacific 
 Ocean is a vast body of water needs not measurement 
 merely as proof, but when for days, consecutively, not 
 a craft of any kind is seen in a continuous run, the 
 fact forces itself upon the voyager that vastness 
 rather than pacific had been a better name for this 
 body of water. 
 
 We had been out from Yokohama six days when 
 the imaginary one hundred and eighty degrees' line 
 of latitude was crossed, with Greenwich, England, 
 as the zero point of the circle, the latter, as in all 
 circles, having three hundred and sixty degrees. Ac- 
 cording to the ship's time, it was fifty-eight minutes 
 past twelve on the afternoon of July twenty-third, 
 when the one hundred and eightieth degree was 
 crossed, hence, according to the arbitrary rule laid 
 down by the congress of nations assembled in 1888, 
 a day was dropped, and we continued for twenty-four 
 hours more to regard the time as Monday, July 
 twenty-third. The days aboard ship on the Pacific 
 begin at noon instead of at midnight, hence on ship- 
 board one experiences part of two days by daylight 
 [308 1 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 instead of sleeping out of one into the other. In ^ our 
 circle of the globe, because following the rising sun, 
 hence need for setting time ahead as we proceeded 
 eastward and but for the arbitrary rule above referred 
 to, we would, upon our arrival at San Francisco, 
 have been one day ahead of time prevailing in the 
 United States. Because of the above anomaly as to 
 time, any one's birthday falling on Monday, the 
 twenty-third, on this voyage would have had two 
 birthdays consecutively. 
 
 On the eighth day out from Yokohama were seen 
 the first signs of any other vessel and that only the 
 smoke, the vessel itself being invisible. The first 
 dance aboard on this trip on the evening of the 
 eighth day proved a dismal failure, few or none of 
 the men appearing to have the courage or inclination 
 to ask for partners at dance. Unlike the voyage from 
 New York to Naples, Cupid seemingly had nothing to 
 do on this voyage. So little life aboard ship had not 
 previously been experienced in our tour. 
 
 On the ninth day out we were near the tropic of 
 Cancer, about twenty-three degrees from the equator 
 and pretty warm. At nine o'clock on the morning 
 of July twenty-sixth, we went ashore at Honolulu, 
 having made the run of three thousand three hun- 
 dred miles from Yokohama in nine days and eighteen 
 hours, less about close to five hours cut off from day 
 [309 1 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 to day in our course eastward. The Manchuria had 
 about one thousand five hundred tons of cargo (riostly 
 cement) to unload at Honolulu. We were, therefore, 
 advised we would have about twenty-four hours be- 
 fore sailing for Frisco — good news for those of us 
 who wished to see Honolulu. The latter is a rather 
 pleasant-looking city, with some creditable public 
 buildings and residences, besides two good hotels. A 
 good electric street car system takes one in more or 
 less all directions, especially out to the aquarium and 
 Manoa Hotel, about two miles from the city. This 
 hotel is both comfortable and attractive, with good 
 service, besides being located on the beach where the 
 breakers can be seen and heard at close range. One 
 of the sports here, besides bathing, is to ride the break- 
 ers in a native canoe; some of the natives have even 
 mastered the art of standing on a board while riding 
 the breakers into shore. The beautiful colors of the 
 water, as seen from Honolulu, are unequaled any- 
 where, so far as my observation goes. The colors of 
 the water may or may not have something to do with 
 the richness of colors on some of the fish in the aqua- 
 rium. Never, except in the plumage of birds or fowl, 
 had I previously seen such colorings on any liv- 
 ing thing. If it were possible for an artist to mix 
 colors of such richness one might be disposed to be- 
 lieve some of the fish in the aquarium had been 
 [310] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 painted. Aside from the colors, the variety of fish 
 was large, considering they are all said to be caught 
 in the neighborhood of the Hawaiian Islands. The 
 population of the city is said to be about thirty-five 
 thousand. While the temperature in the centre of 
 the city was hot, even oppressive, a delightful breeze 
 came off the ocean. The native Hawaiians, in color, 
 are about like our mulattoes, but without the African 
 features. The pure natives, of which there are said 
 now to be but few, are of good features, some of the 
 women being beautiful. While the hills immediately 
 back of Honolulu are barren to a faulty vegetation 
 and plant life all through the city is tropical. Sev- 
 eral parks add to the attractiveness of the city. The 
 latter I would think an ideal place for those desiring 
 a warm climate in the winter months. Sugar cane is, 
 of course, the principal product of the Hawaiian Is- 
 lands, though some coffee is grown, besides cocoa- 
 nuts and banauas. The stop at Honolulu was mainly 
 interesting because of being Uncle Sam's possession, 
 and besides it gave us opportunity to get some exer- 
 cise on terra firma for the remaining six days' run 
 to Frisco. In exchange for the nearly eight hundred 
 Japanese coolies, which had been brought over from 
 Japan for Honolulu, we took aboard an equal number 
 of Japanese from Honolulu for Frisco. 
 
 The Hawaiian Islands seem the stepping-stone of 
 [3111 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 the Mikado's subjects for the United States. Instead 
 of the thoroughly Japanese crowd brought from 
 Japan, those taken aboard at Honolulu had become 
 Americanized, so far as that their Japanese clothes 
 and kimonas had been discarded for American coat 
 and trousers. About eighty first-cabin passengers 
 were also taken aboard, while some brought from 
 Yokohama remained in Honolulu. 
 
 The Hindu custom of decorating departing friends 
 with wreaths of flowers also prevails at Honolulu, and 
 many of the passengers who came aboard were thus 
 profusely decorated. 
 
 On July twenty-seventh, at ten o 'clock in the morn- 
 ing, we finally steamed away from the pier at Hono- 
 lulu with anticipations of Frisco and home growing 
 ever stronger in me. I had for some weeks felt dis- 
 quieted regarding the physical condition of my 
 mother, and to her I wished I might now fly. Life 
 aboard the Manchuria did not undergo any change 
 between Honolulu and Frisco from what it had pre- 
 viously been. The weather was ideal, added to which 
 were full moonlit nights, the temperature having 
 grown cooler as we proceeded. My note book on July 
 thirtieth refers to the time as growing almost unbear- 
 ably long as the distance to Frisco grew steadily 
 shorter. 
 
 The last day out from Frisco brought a raw, cold, 
 [312] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 high wind and high seas, and sight of several four- 
 masted schooners, full-rigged, tacking their way 
 Frisco-ward, against unfavorable conditions. One of 
 the latter came right toward us and the Manchuria's 
 course being not changed gave the appearance for a 
 time that there must be a collision ; as it was, when we 
 passed across the schooner's bow, the latter did not 
 look more than five hundred yards away. Close fig- 
 uring on the part of our skipper, it seemed. The last 
 day out from our destination brought with it the 
 death of the purser, and gloom to the ship's officers. 
 The gloom of the ship 's officers must have been trivial 
 as compared with that occasioned on her very next 
 trip out from Frisco, ten days later, when the Man- 
 churia ran upon the rocks, spreading gloom over the 
 passengers as well. 
 
 [ 313 ] 
 
CHAPTER XXVIII. 
 
 THE END OF THE TOUR. 
 
 August second, early, and San Francisco Bay, and 
 the five thousand four hundred and eighty-nine mile 
 voyage had been safely overcome in fifteen days and 
 sixteen hours, actual running time. Poor Frisco, with 
 evident traces of the earthquake horror still appar- 
 ent on all sides, from the Manchuria's decks did yet 
 look frightfully good to me. Though having acquired 
 patience in the orient, the six hours' detention out in 
 the bay while immigrant, customs and health officers 
 scrutinized the passengers (largely the Japanese and 
 Chinese), was just about bearable. By two o'clock 
 the Manchuria was finally tied up at her pier, the 
 passengers quickly came ashore and were again in 
 dear old Uncle Sam's land to face the ordeal of the 
 customs inspectors. The latter proved both tedious 
 and aggravating in the extreme to our party, due to 
 an unfortunate remark by one of them to a hot-headed 
 inspector. We had planned to take the first train 
 in the evening out of Frisco for home, and all but 
 missed it because of the above incident. Fortunately 
 we had gone up into the city immediately upon land- 
 ing, arranged for sleepers, and had seen all we de- 
 [ 314 ] 
 
DOING OVER. 
 
 sired of the ruins before the ordeal of the customs 
 inspector. When, finally, the latter had come to his 
 senses, our foreign purchases examined and duty paid, 
 just time enough was left us to transfer luggage and 
 ourselves over to the Southern Pacific Station in Oak- 
 land. Thus we had reached the far west, Frisco, by 
 a continuous going eastward, and eastward we must 
 continue to reach home again. In India we had seen 
 many cities that had been destroyed in times past, 
 through warfare, but whether, because they were so 
 completely in ruins or because Frisco's destruction 
 was of such recent occurrence, the latter appeared 
 greater than any seen in India. The streets of Frisco 
 had been cleared of the debris and a few new build- 
 ings had already been reared skyward, but ruin was 
 to be seen on all sides. It is unlikely that any one 
 not present can picture the horrors of those days im- 
 mediately following the earthquake, but the remain- 
 ing ruins speak volumes of frightful horror, distress 
 and suffering. The grandeur of the picture of the 
 city building rent from its dome to the foundations, 
 the statue of liberty seemingly intact at the top of 
 the dome, might well be preserved as it was, as an 
 enduring spectacle of the earthquake's ravages. On 
 the day of our visit the sun shone so brightly that it 
 might have been charged with smiling upon the 
 earth's victory over man's skill. But we were 
 [315] 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 to get away from this destruction and at about six 
 o'clock the Southern Pacific train pulled out of Oak- 
 land with at least one overjoyed passenger bound for 
 home. How natural was the comfortable Pullman, 
 though we had not seen one for seven months. About 
 ten o'clock the next morning we had reached the 
 Nevada line and all day traveled through the Nevada 
 desert lands, entirely barren except for occasional lit- 
 tle patches of partly green vegetation or tumble weed. 
 On August fourth, the second morning out, we ar- 
 rived in Salt Lake City, about nine hundred miles 
 from Frisco and four thousand two hundred and 
 twenty-five feet above the sea level. A few hours 
 were spent in Salt Lake City and at three-fifty in 
 the afternoon, over the Denver and Rio Grande, we 
 started again homeward. During the following morn- 
 ing we passed through the Colorado Royal Gorge. 
 The latter, for rugged grandeur, eclipsed any scenery 
 we had seen in any part of the tour around the world. 
 Though over five thousand feet above the sea level, 
 a goodly stream rushes down, eventually to mix with 
 the Gulf. The highest point reached in the run toward 
 Denver was at Tennessee Pass, ten thousand two hun- 
 dred and forty feet above the sea — Denver being but 
 five thousand two hundred feet, and one thousand 
 six hundred and eleven miles from Frisco. In the 
 afternoon of August fifth, we arrived in Denver, 
 [316] 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 where, a few moments later, aboard a Union Pacific 
 train, I continued on toward Omaha, the scenery the 
 while being very pleasing, and thousands of acres of 
 fertile lands. On the morning of August sixth my 
 train pulled into Omaha, crossing the Missouri River, 
 and at three o'clock, in the afternoon, at Clinton, 
 Iowa, the Mississippi was crossed. Our party of 
 three had remained together throughout until reach- 
 ing Denver, where we separated. I was thus alone 
 for the remaining run to Chicago, where I arrived 
 about nine o'clock, August sixth, just seven months 
 to the day from the start from New York on January 
 sixth. 
 
 The round-the-world tour was now finished, and 
 Chicago did look so good to me. The trip had cost 
 me about exclusive of money spent in pur- 
 chases and duty thereon. If it were possible to recall 
 the money spent and thereby effectually efface from 
 my memory the incidents, the hardships, inconven- 
 iences of, and interest in, the trip, I would not for one 
 moment think of doing so. 
 
 The work of rewriting these notes, which is now at 
 an end, gave added pleasure, and with more than nine 
 hundred photographs of scenes taken by one of our 
 party throughout our travels, a continuous interest 
 is assured me. 
 
 In addition to the good fortune to have made the 
 [ 317 1 
 
DOING OVEE. 
 
 foregoing tour without serious illness or accident, was 
 the providential privilege to have returned home in 
 time to be at the bedside of my dying mother. Though 
 the end was said to have been close at hand for some 
 days prior to my home-coming, my dear mother seem- 
 ingly lived for my return and forty-eight hours there- 
 after her spirit fled hence to join that of my father, 
 who had preceded her by fourteen years, to that 
 eternal home where some day, in another long jour- 
 ney, I hope to overtake them. The fear that death 
 would come to my mother before I could get to her 
 bedside had given me much concern while I was yet 
 far from home. One of the best mothers that ever 
 lived, mine, gave up this life in her eighty-sixth year 
 with no apparent suffering, to journey hence to enjoy 
 the blessings of that other world. 
 
 318 
 
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