jSF 453 i.R55 1921 R I C H E VS Rabbit and C avy B ook mncu and uidtiij breods MRS. C. A. RICHEY RICHEY'S Rabbit and Cavy Book FOURTH EDITION A Complete text book of the Rabbit and Cavy Industry PROFUSELY ILLUSTRATED Price, 75c. 'lilii!:( EDITED BY MRS. C. A. RICHEY Los Angeles, California Published by GERMAIN ,SEBD AND PLANT CO., Los Angeles, Calif. 1921 if A- 6^5 ^ i\ 5i> Copyright 1921 by Germain Seed & Plant Co. Los Angeles, California 0)CU624793 ^ I INTRODUCTION Owing to the first, second and third edition of The Rabbit Book being so favorably received by the public in general, it has become necessary to publish a fourth edition, which has been revised, enlarged and bettered in every way possible. It is hard to realize the wonderful strides this industry has made during the past ten years in all its branches : meat, fur and fancy ; for in this, as in every un- dertaking, the American will not go half way — "The best is none too good for us." This is a text book of facts and help, condensed in as small space as possible — a hand guide. I claim the indulgence of the "scientific" breeders, and thank all those who have helped me with their knowl- edge and advice on the different breeds. To Mr. Charles Neidhardt of San Jose, Cal., I must give especial thanks for the loan of most of the cuts and the benefit of his great knowledge of the rabbits. In studying the writings of different people we save ourselves much labour and many disappointments. This book will put the novice on the right track both in a small or large proposition. REMARKS In writing and compiling this book, with few ex- ceptions, I have given the actual experience of almost ten years constant study and association with fanciers of the different breeds. This book was selected (as being the most concise and understandable of all the books on Rabbits) for the Text Book of the Los Angeles schools. I do not wish to hold out any ridiculous inducements financially, (it is no "get rich quick" scheme) but can be made both profitable and enjoyable to the lover of animals, and the Out Door Life. Domestic rabbit meat is eaten and enjoyed by many millions all over the Country, and is an Industry that has come to stay as in the Cities the meat is much in demand, bringing a good price all the year round. It is equal to the Domestic fowl and can be cooked in the many different ways, and is considered even more delicate and nutritious, and more easily digested than any of the meats, a delicacy that the man of limited means can supply to his family, at a small cost of labor and capital. and a hobby for the admirer of pure bred fancy animals with only a few feet of ground at his command. We are now interested in the RABBIT FUR, common- ly called "Coney," and when properly understood, will be a profitable item of this rabbit game, and so from this one small animal we have meat for your table, fur to keep you warm, and fertilizer for your garden. The raising of Fancy Rabbits is great sport, and every- one should have a hobby. TABLE OF CONTENTS Hares 11 Origin of the Domestic Rabbit 12 Different Breeds of Rabbits 13 Breeding 34 Feeding 39 Marketing Stock : 44 Advice to the Beginner 45 Hutches 46 Rabbits and Their Fur 51 The Fur Rabbit 55 The Shows 57 The Rabbit as Food 59 Cooking the Rabbit 60 Rabbit Diseases 61 Recipes for Cooking Rabbits 67 Cavies 73 NEW ZEALAND RABBIT FUR Bred, Tanned and Made by Mrs. C. A. Richey, R. 7, Box 854 Los Angeles, Cal. RicJicv's Rabbit and Cavy Book 11 Hares Hares and rabbits are entirely different breeds, and it is said that hares bred to rabbits fail to produce "any offspring. Anyhow, it is a known fact that the domestic rabbit of today is different from the hare. The well-known Belgian hare is a rabbit, and not a hare. Rabbits have dewlaps, which is the natural fullness or enlargement of the neck of the breeding doe. Hares do not have dewlaps. The Belgian has dewlaps, very slightly or not at all, as great care has been given to its breeding to make it resemble the wild hare in shape and characteristics as much as possible. The young of the wild hare are born with eyes open, and will eat as soon as they are born, the common wild hare and jack rabbit are enormously prolific, and become a pest to the farmers, as they are so destructive to crops. In Europe the hare is considered a great luxury, and is to be found on the table of the rich man alone. The price of a wild hare in the old country is $1.50 to $2.00 each, and here in America they are slaughtered by the millions and left to waste, while many poor families in the cities have scarcely any meat. But the Americans have come to realize the value and possibilities of the domestic rabbit, and it is here to stay, both as an article of food and as a hobby — this is referring to the jack rabbit drives in Cali- fornia 12 Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book Origin of the Domestic Rabbit Rabbits, as members of the group scientifically known as "Leporidae," are probably the most interesting of that great animal division, the Rodentia, or chisel-toothed mam- mals. They are able to adjust themselves to practically any climate or condition. Their food embraces nearly all forms of vegetable life, and their teeth, growing from the roots, adjust themselves to natural wear, their sight meets all demands of both day and night, their fecundity is astonishing, and their flesh is among the highest in nu- tritive food value. They are the cleanest of all domestic animals and birds, and do not require as much room in which to live and thrive. There are many different varieties of domestic rabbits at the present time, all originating from the wild rabbits of Europe — "Lepus Cuniculus." It has taken many years to produce the different breeds as we know them at the present time, ?.nA it would take a large volume to describe all this work in all its details. There are only a few of the breeds ot which the origin is positively known, as in all sciences there are many conjectures and theories. Each different breed origi- nated from a "Hybrid" or "sport." These sports are care- fully bred for several generations until the characteristics have been fully established, and they breed perfectly in type and color. With some of the breeds this has proved to be more difficult than others — hence the word "fancier." Rabbits have been domesticated for several centuries. It is believed they were bred in China in the time of Confucius (sixth century before Christ) and known on the European continent in 1557. The wild rabbit is small and usually weighs from two and a half to three pounds; the domestic rabbit has been carefully bred up to as high as twenty-one pounds. Richcv's Rabbit and Caz'v Book 13 Different Breeds There are seventeen different breeds of rabbits in the American Standard of Perfection at the present time. As a breed is perfected it will be added to the Standard, and each year will, no doubt, bring some new breed to perfection in this country, for the American is a true sport and never does things by halves. Although the rabbit industry is still in its infancy, we have already some beautiful specimens created by men who foresaw the coming popularity of this work. About twenty years ago there was a Belgian Hare craze in America, which only lasted a short time, in which they were treated as pets. People very soon became tired of the trouble and expense of them, but, of course, there re- mained a number of those in the country who liked the hobby and so kept it up, and when the price of meat kept soaring, these ingenious persons saw a means of making ? fine business that would benefit themselves and others. So rabbit raising was started again in real earnest and has be- come one of the industries of this country as well as Europe. In a short time we shall have breeds in America the same as across the water, and we shall be exporting instead of im- porting. THE FLEMISH GIANT The Flemish Giants are the largest and heaviest of the rabbit family, averaging twelve to thirteen pounds, and many fine specimens weigh from fifteen to sixteen pounds ; occasionally as high as twenty pounds. The Standard calls STEEL GRAY FLEMISH DOE 14 Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book for not less than thirteen pounds for bucks, and does as much over thirteen pounds as possible. The body should be long and powerful — a giant in every sense of the w^ord. WHITE FLEMISH GIANT Grays, color uniform all over body, and under tail and belly as w^hite as possible. The head should be large and well shaped, color same as body, ears large, eyes medium size LIGHT GRAY FLEMISH BUCK Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book 15 and dark brown. At four months they should weigh eight to nine pounds ; six months, ten to eleven pounds, and as much more as possible. Flemish do not mature until they are fifteen months old. Colors are dark gray or steel, light gray, blue, black or white. They, with the Belgian, are the oldest and most well-known breeds in all the countries. ORIGIN The origin of the Flemish is more or less shrouded in mystery. In Flanders, France, previous to the Franco- Prussian war, the inhabitants had a domestic rabbit, weigh- ing about twelve pounds, heavily boned, grey to steel gray in color, which they claimed had been produced by a cross of the native "Lepus Cuniculus," a common wild rab- bit, with the "African Lop Ear." This rabbit was known in Flanders as the "Normandie Giant." A rabbit of almost similar type, but browner in color, was being raised in Bel- gium. In Germany they had a rabbit somewhat resembling our heavy weight Belgian of today, but lesser weight. This was known as the Ge-he-ge. The best French and German authorities agree that the Giant de Flanders, or Flemish Giant, originated in a cross of the above mentioned types. The English, admiring the size and possibilities of this handsome animal, imported them into their own country and commenced breeding to perfect the color and type. It was from England the Americans got their first start of the Flemish, but much yet is to be done to perfect the breed from a fancier's standpoint. A doe rarely has a litter all one color. They are usually the two shades of gray, and some black. Dark steel gray is the color most sought by the fancier, and the uncertainty of the breeding is what makes it so interesting. Some day, no doubt, they will get to the stage of breeding true, the same as other types. BREEDING THE FLEMISH In breeding the Flemish size is the greatest consideration, and as the grays are a much larger animal and the buck of steel gray a much handsomer color, the doe giving size, and the buck color, the scientific breeder takes the largest gray doe and breeds her to the finest steel buck, passing on to their progeny the desired color and weight. Specimens for the show room should be a perfectly even color. No rusty patches, and no solid black on any of the steels. A silver tip is a solid black Flemish with white hairs sprinkled all 16 Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book over the body, making a handsome fur for wraps. The blue Flemish is a little darker shade of blue than the American, more of a slate blue. All Flemish are now in the Standard of Perfection. The White Flemish is a pure, clear white all over the body and pink eyes. Each color is bred to conform with the same standard as the gray type, large and massive. An eight-months' class is given the Flemish in the show- room, thus giving the breeder a chance to win with a fine specimen that otherwise could not compete with the Senior class. CHECKERED GIANT The Checkered Giant is a handsome animal and is be- coming extremely popular. Its markings are very beautiful, on the same order of the Black and White English rabbit, but splashes instead of spots; having the black across the CHECKERED GIANT nose in the shape of a butterfly. A black line should extend from the back of the neck with uniform markings on each hind quarter, and colored eye-circles and ears. They are bred Ridirx's Rabbit and Caz'v Book 17 in blue, black, tortoise, and with gray markings on a white body. Standard weight is similar to that of the Flemish. The fur is good but somewhat coarser than the smaller breeds. THE BELGIAN HARE "RED BIRD"— RUFOUS RED BELGIAN The so-called "Belgian Hare" is the most widely known of any rabbit. In spite of being called a "hare," it is a rabbit, the name hare being given to it on account of its resemblance to a wild hare in the shape of the head, ears and body, and the lively appearance of its eyes, and build. It originated in Europe, of course, but exactly how is not known. To the English must be given the credit for its perfection at the present day. The boom this breed had in America some twenty years ago caused it to lose many friends at the time, but it is fast regaining its popularity, for it is a truly beautiful animal, more graceful than any of the breeds, with its long racy body, and bright eyes. It is also said to be the most intelligent of all, and can be taught little tricks, such as posing, etc. 18 Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book Standard weight of Rufus Reds should be eight pounds ; color, a rich, dark cherry, or mahogany red, the color uniform over head, ears, chest, feet and body, ex- tending well over the hind quarters, and down the sides, and be covered with a rich, wavy, ticking, also creamy belly, as dark as possible, ears to match body, with a dark mark around the edge, 5 inches in length, medium thickness and good color. The breeders should be raised in long hutches, with hurdles and boxes to jump over to give them the long racy appearance so much admired in the show room. The Rufus is one of the most delicate of all the rabbits on account of its being inbred for many generations, and care should be taken not to crowd the young. They can stand plenty of cold weather, but must be kept dry. They are delicious eat- ing, but not so popular as a meat rabbit on account of the size. There is a so-called Giant Belgian raised for the mar- ket. It is a cross between the Flemish and Rufus Red Bel- gian, and it makes a hardy rabbit for that purpose, THE ANGORA A PERFECT TYPE The Angora district of Asia Minor has climatic condi- tions which produce certain peculiarities in the pelage of the domestic animals. Goats, sheep and cats trace their Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book 19 origin from there. One of the most remarkable is the rab- bit. The peculiar characteristics of the An^-ora rabbit are its tendencies toward albinism, or complete loss of color, and the replacement of hair, with a soit, silky wool. The wool or fleece has long been recognized throughout Persia and other parts of Oriental Europe, as a commodity of con- siderable value. For instance, the finest grades of Cashmere shawls, and certain peculiar kinds of thread, more or less highly prized, are derived from the clipped wool of the An- gora rabbit. It is not unusual to see specimens of this ani- mal with wool six inches in length. The industry has some- what declined in later years, but is still being carried on in southern European countries, the clipped wool reaching as high as twelve marks ($3.00) per pound. The American and English fanciers raise and breed the Angora mostly as an ornamental rabbit, notwithstanding that their meat is as good, their prolificacy as great, and their pelage more valu- able than others of the ornamental and utility types. The pelt of the Angora rabbit, though not a true fur, if in good condition should bring twenty-five cents in the raw state, before being tanned. But they must have been kept in good condition in regard to their coat — which should be brushed during the period of shedding to stop the matting of the wool, as this prevents the new wool from coming out nice and long. These animals are extremely gentle and excellent mothers, also the best of foster mothers, and v ry hardy. The standard weight of the Angora is over six pounds, with short, chubby body, fine broad head, short ears, tufted on the ends, and tail and feet should have a fringe of wool hanging from them. The white ones have pink eyes. They are bred in different colors, some of them very beautiful, blues, blacks, orange, fawn, and grays. The black are usually smoky colored. The length of the wool should be from two and one-half to five inches in length. In groom- ing them a wire hair brush such as women use, is the best. Brush against the hair, starting behind the ears and ending at the tail, then vice versa, lastly blowing and fiuft'ing up. NEW ZEALAND REDS The New Zealand Red rabbit as we know it today is very different to the specimens we started with in 1913. At that time they were lighter colored, white underneath, with large white eyecircles. Now they are a beautiful reddish brown, a very rich color, very small eye circles, in some cases 20 Ridley's Rabbit and Cary Book scarcely any; ears clean, soft and like a pink shell inside; SVz inches long is the standard; a bright hazel eye; medium broad head and creamy belly, longish body with broad hindquarters, making the breed an ideal meat rabbit, the bones are small, meat fine grained and juicy. A rabbit that has "Red Rhoda" New Zealand Doe Line bred from 1914 winners by Mrs. C. A. Richey been accepted all over the country as a rare type most profit- able to the meat raiser, and the possibilities of getting the beautiful color and type has appealed to the Fancier, until we have — when properly bred — one of the most admired and beautiful of any of the breeds. THE ORIGIN The origin of the New Zealand has caused much contro- versy all over the country; there are always a few who want to be the IT in anything of this kind, yet no one can find out how this breed came by its name — New Zealand. Some say there are no rabbits of this description in New Zealand. I expect it all depends on what part of the country the parties claiming this knowledge came from. A man came to see my rabbits some years ago and was extremely surprised to see the New Zealand. He had just come from that coun- try and said he had seen them by the thousands in the market, but much smaller than mine. They naturally would be in their wild state as they breed too young and bring up Ridley's Rabbit and Caz'y Book 21 large litters. I also know a Scotchman who raised them in Scotland when he was a boy. There they called them sandy rabbits on account of their color. Many years ago a number w^ere taken from Scotland to New Zealand and turned loose to propigate, which they surely did, and there is no doubt that is where we got the ^^^^^^^^^ ''^^^^^^^^^^^^Hjl k M H^^^^^^^^^^^^H iHl^K.'- ^^H ■BSr^^v^S^^^^^H ^^^^H3y||/W '•• ||^H| IK^B^ ' "^m^^^^^^^i ^^^H^^^SpT ^v^ .A. ^^^1 ^la^«Sk^ ^^^^^^^H ■ JM wKiJMr^^^^ ^^^^^^1 B^^^^^B^'*' 4iimB8^'C \"' ■^^^M NEW ZEALAND BUCK A Fine Meat Type and a Decendant of Many Famous Winners Owned by Mrs. C. A. Ricliey Start from on the Pacific coast. Someone brought them, but who, no one has ever been able to say. The chap must have died or disappeared some how, or he surely would have said something in answer to all that has been said and written about them. Some claim to have made the breed, but it is doubted by all New Zealand breeders, as of all breeds they breed true to color and type, excepting being inclined to white ; the dark ticking we have had to fight in some strains, I believe, was introduced by crossing with Flemish to produce size, as it does not come in all, and is so easy to breed out. It takes several years to produce an animal of standard characteristics, so we know the New Zealand is an old timer much improved by careful breeding. THE WHITE NEW ZEALAND We have now a new breed — that is new to us — called the White New Zealand; originated by Mr. W. S. Preshaw. Ripon, Cal. ; having the type of the New Zealand, but a 22 Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book pure white coat with pink eyes. It is a very pretty animal and one of the most gentle I have ever handled, making excellent mothers, and very prolific. In fact all New Zea- lands are such, but the white are even more gentle than the reds. The fur is of fine quality and compares with the Hima- laya for wearing apparel, and I am sure they are going to be as popular as the reds. WEIGHT The standard weight of the New Zealand Reds is 9 pounds for bucks, and 10 pounds for does, but we seldom see a doe weighing over 9 to 9^2 pounds unless she is too fat. White are smaller. For awhile a few breeders wished WHITE NEW ZEALAND Originated by Mr. W. S. Preshaw, Ripon, Ca|. to push the weight, but what are we to gain. They give us nice fry at the age of 9 to 12 weeks, and the butchers will not take them for frys over two pounds, and prefer one and one-half pounds. This is on account of the high price. When we can produce a rabbit for the table at, say, 35 cents per pound retail, a three-pound rabbit will sell as easily, and better, than a one and one-half pound now. Sixty and sixty- five cents per pound is an awful price, and that is what they have been all the winter in Los Angeles, but as long as feed keeps such a price we cannot produce them and make any- thing for ourselves at much less per pound than we are now Rickey's Rabbit and Cav\ Book 23 getting-. To the small raiser for the family it will pay, as such luxuries are out of the question in a large family if they have to buy at the market retail prices. So here's to the New Zealands ! May they keep and in- crease their popularity for future generations. They have certainly been a profitable game to me. STANDARD Color, rich, reddish Buff all over body and legs, creamy belly. Hazel eyes, circle small, ears 5^2 inch — head medium broad. HIMALAYAN BUCK George Sr. 1st and Special Bred by the Hackett Himalayan Fur Farm, Oakland, Cal. THE HIMALAYAN Here is another beautiful rabbit whose origin is un- known. It is supposed to have originated north of the Himalayan Mountains, and are to be found in parts of Russia, China and Northern India. It is one of the sweet- est and daintiest of all rabbits. Its wonderful fur, so near like the famous expensive Ermine, makes it a profitable animal, as well as a joy to raise. It has been known under a number of different names, but it is very strange that an animal should be given such an odd name as Himalayans unless it was at one time connected with the Himalayan country in some way, and it will without doubt keep that name now to the end of rabbit history. Quite a large number of Americans have taken to raising this odd little animal, more so, it is claimed by an authority, than any other fancy breed, 'on account of its beauty and value of the pelt. Its color is pure white with thick, short 24 Richev's Rabbit and Cavy Book fur, and black nose, ears, legs and pink eyes. They do not get these dark markings until three weeks old. Then a faint mark will appear, gradually getting larger until the rabbit is three months old. They are in the prime of fur at five to eight months of age. The treatment of the pelt should be attended to care- fully, as therein lies its value. To imitate the Ermine, the pelt should be stripped carefully to avoid tearing the skin. It should then be placed in the shade and stretched over a piece of wood of the proper size to make it dry evenly. When dry the skins should be laid away with moth balls, in a tight fitting box, until they are ready to be sent away or tanned. HIMALAYAN DOE Maid of the Mill — Champion. Five Specials Bred by Hackett Himalayan Fur Farm, Oakland, Gal. Weight should be four pounds, with body long and slender. They should not be heavy when raised for ex- hibition, and great attention is paid to the markings, which should be even and of a solid color, as nearly black as pos- s'ble, mark on nose the shape of an egg, feet black to first joint — when shedding the black will turn brown and sometimes eye spots will appear — a discoloration over the eye — impossible to account for. BLACK AND TAN Here again is a rabbit that owes its origin to the English pet stock lovers. The Black and Tan ; they also come in Blue and Tan, is a small rabbit not over four pounds. They Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book 25 BLACK AND TAN RABBIT are purely a fancy breed, and very beautiful. Much care must be given to the breeding- to produce the right colors, which should be blue or black in uniform color, rich and glossy, eyes to match body color, the tan to be deep and rich ; shape Dutch type. THE POLISH The Standard calls for a rich, pure white, weight three pounds, fur short, fine and silky, eyes large, bold and blood red. A breed very little known in America. POLISH 26 Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book ENGLISH AND FRENCH LOPS The Lopeared rabbit is quite a curiosity in most parts of America, as it is among the latest to be taken up by the fancier, although it is an old breed both in England and in ENGLISH LOP France, and can be traced back a great many years. It is bred in all the different colors and is a fine table rabbit, the FRENCH LOP Riclicv's Rabbit and Caz'v Book 27 wonderful part of the breed being the enormous ears, some measuring 27 by 634 inches. Standard weight of the EngUsh calls for ten pound bucks; does eleven pounds. When kindling, their nest box must be large' and they should not be allowed to raise more than two or three to a litter. At four months the ears should be about ten to eleven inches ; if any less they will not amount to anything for the show room. Be sure to watch the does with the buck, as a bite or a scratch on the ear would disfigure them. They are hardy rabbits and feed the same as others of their kind, but must be kept warm. The ears should fall gracefully on each side of the head. The English has a massive body and smallish head, large bright eyes, and a gentle disposition. The French are the same but smaller in size, and ears are smaller. THE DUTCH The Dutch originated in Holland, as the name would imply, and is very odd and beautiful. Half the body is solid color and half pure white, nose is white, with solid color around the eyes, divided through the head by the white. Standard weight is five pounds and under, with short limbs. The ears are erect, solid color, same as body. Eyes hazel in blacks, and to match body in other colors, and hind feet should have clean, white boots one and one-half inch on both feet. THE DUTCH 28 Rickey's Rabbit and Caz'y Book Dutch are bred in black, blue, tortoise and gray. On the Pacific Coast they are not plentiful, but will be a great favor- ite when better known. They breed true and are excellent foster mothers. The Dutch are the best foster mothers to be had, for some reason they give an enormous quantity of milk of good quality and will take any rabbit no matter what breed to mother, consequently they are kept by fanciers for nurse does. THE AMERICAN BLUE Here we have a new old rabbit, new in name but a com- bination of the old Vienna Blue, Imperial, and blue Flemish. Mr. Louis Salisbury, Judge and Fancier, is responsible for the perfection of this wonderful rabbit called — blue^ — but is really what is termed in dressgoods a color called Taupe — a grayish or maltese blue, very handsome for trimming dresses AMERICAN BLUE and coats. It is also a fine meat type and a handsome ani- mal, with large broad hindquarters, a typical meat breed. Ten pounds is the standard weight of this rabbit. It is not a giant, but a medium sized, useful rabbit easy to handle. They are healthy and prolific, making excellent mothers, in breeding for perfection the following standard must be closely fol- Ridley's Rabbit and Caz'y Book 29 lowed to get away from the lung bodied Flemish. The type size and shape of the American Blue is very similar to the now famous Blue Beveren of England. Pelt is usually in its prime for fur at five months. STANDARD FOR AMERICAN BLUE SHAPE — Mandoline, compact, broad, meaty back slightly arched back, not flat, medium size bones, small dewlap as possible 20 COLOR — Rich, clear maltese blue, with as great depth of color as possible. Should be free from all white hairs, sandy, or rusty colors and uniform over the feet, legs, chest, head, ears, body and tail 25 WEIGHT— Bucks and does at maturity, 10 pounds 10 HEAD — Well shaped, not too long; even color 5 EYES— To be blue 5 EARS — About five inches in length, narrow, well set on and even color 5 Well developed thighs 10 LEGS and FEET — ^Straight, medium size, dark toe nails 10 CONDITION — Coat to be free from any stray colored hairs, with dense, soft fine, silky texture, flesh firm. Disqualifications — White patches of hair, crooked feet, legs or tail; any other colored eyes but blue or lop ear. Faults to be severely cut but not disqualified; stray white hair, sandy or rusty, or any other foreign colored hair, uneven color on body, legs or loins. Rough or uneven coat. The above Standard gives a splendid word picture of this wonderful fur and meat-producing rabbit. Your attention is immediately drawn to it, because of the beautiful rich blue coat. THE BLUE IMPERIAL The Blue Imperial rabbit originated in England and was bred and introduced by a woman. The color, blue, is what is commonly called Maltese, a smoky blue, sometimes with a brownish tinge, which is not good. It should be clear and 30 Richev's Rabbit and Cavv Book clean looking. Standard weight, seven pounds. Shape is similar to the Belgian, but shorter limbs, eyes large and bright, to match color of body, which should be blue all over. The Blue Imperial has had to give way to the American Blue in this country, so we see very few of these once popu- lar rabbits. BLUE IMPERIAL THE "ARGENT D'CHAMPAGNE" French Silvers The "Argent de Champagne," one of the most beautiful of the ornamental breeds are becoming very popular, the fur being one of the most attractive of the rabbit family and the most expensive in the stores. It is a small rabbit, the Stand- ard calling for six pounds, but is a good meat type, having a short, plump body with broad hind quarters and can be bred up in size by the careful breeder. Care must be used in breed- ing for the standard to get a perfect coat, which should have a pepper and salt effect with a silvery sheen, and a light gray- ish blue undercolor, eyes gray with a dark shade of fur around, same across the nose and mouth, ears about five inches, medium thickness, sam.e color as coat, the does are good mothers, and the equal of any for prolificness. Richey's Rabbit and Cavy Book 31 THE "ARGENT D'CHAMPAGNE" ''French Silvers" Bred by Mrs. C. A, Richey DARKER SHADES As a precaution of too close inbreeding- and to increase size, a black cross has been used on some, making a hand- some fur even more admired than the standard color, and no doubt these will be admitted in time to the Standard for the value of the fur. THE HAVANA THE HAVANA A Perfect Specimen The Havana is a rabbit coming rapidly to the front in America. It is a small rabbit, being raised in France mostly for its fur, the color should be a rich brown, undercolor show- 32 Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book ing a light gray, small, fine bone, head shapely, body long and eyes to match color of coat, showing light red in pupil, weight about five pounds. THE SILVER The "Silvers" are an English rabbit very little known in this country but very popular in England. They are bred in three colors, gray, fawn and brown, with a silver guard hair making a most attractive fur. Standard weight is six pounds, shape and type very similar to the French Silvers, and no doubt will become well known and liked in America. THE SILVER (Gray) A Handsome Fur ENGLISH SPOTTED The English spotted rabbit is a bright, pretty fellow, very tame, and the does are excellent mothers. They are very hardy and prolific. The markings are very difficult to breed up to Standard. They are bred in blacks, blues, tortoise and grays. Color of the body is pure white, mark on the nose to be in the shape of a butterfly. Eyes clear and bold, with color circle around each eye. Eyespot on cheek to be clear of circle, ears erect and to be free from white hairs. From head to tail there should be a solid color line with herringbone mark on Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book 33 each side and line of spots from neck to loin. Standard weight, six pounds. By the name we presume at once they originated in Eng- land, but it is so long ago that the origin is almost forgotten. They are fine eating and the fur is very handsome for coat linings, when properly matched. THE SPOTTED ENGLISH 34 Rickey's Rabbit and Cav\ Book Breeding Breeding rabbits, without doubt, is a most important part of the rabbit industry, whether for fancy or for the market. Great care should be used in the choice of breeding- stock, be- ing sure they are perfectly healthy, and from healthy parents. Never breed an animal that shows any signs of disease, as it will be sure to repeat itself in the progeny sooner or later. MARKET STOCK If raising for the market is to be the specialty, care should be taken to start with a breed that will produce the most meat in the shortest time possible. The Flemish Giant, Giant Bel- gian and New Zealand are the best breeds for the market, as the young from these are ready for fryers at eight to ten weeks of age, consequently, they require much less room. The doe can be bred when the young are six weeks old, and she can remain with them until they are eight weeks old and ready for market. In selecting breeding stock, rabbits with broad backs and heavy hind quarters should be chosen, as such animals dress more attractively, being broad and heavy instead of long and lean looking. Choose the largest animals possible, especially the buck, and never breed a buck that is inferior to the does. If you do you will never get a good strain, and never breed a rabbit under seven or eight months of age, doe or buck. Breeding immature animals will bring weaklings, with no stamina or vigor, and will result in poor stock that will dete- riorate instead of improve. One buck is sufficient for eight does. FANCY STOCK In breeding fancy stock one should start with the^ finest specimens possible. Of course, one would have to pay a good price, but yovi must remember that it Avill pay in the end, as it is much easier to breed up to perfection, and the sooner you have the perfection the sooner the profits will commence. A Ridley's Rabbit and Caz'x Book 35 rabbit that wins wherever shown, is the greatest advertisment a man can have, and the animal will bring- a high price, be- sides the young one can raise from it, which is often far superior to the parent. By careful breeding stock can be improved in a short time. HIMALAYANS IN THEIR CUPS Won by Mrs. Leroy B. Hackett, Oakland, Cal. Shows What a Woman Can Bo in the Fancy Stock THE RULES OF BREEDING Does or bucks should be eight months of age or over, entirely free from blemish or disease, through moulting, or shedding. Does should be taken to the hutch of the buck and watched. One service is sufficient and brings better results than more. Let the doe rest a few minutes then remove her to her own hutch. If she will not take the buck try her again, every three days until she does take him. If a doe is too fat she will not breed. Cut down the feed and give her exercise. Occasionally a doe cannot breed ; then she is of no use and should be killed. A doe should not be bred more than four or five times a year. Nothing is gained by forcing a doe to bear more, as it will shorten her life and bring weaklings. Sometimes a doe takes a dislike to certain bucks; if this seems to be the reason try her with another buck, watching carefully that the second buck does not claw her on account of the scent of the first buck. 36 Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book LINE BREEDING To create a strain of animals for particular qualities extra care is required. A pedigree must be kept for several generations, beginning with the most perfect specimens ob- tainable. The laws of heredity are the same all through nature, and if one is especially interested, there are books devoted to this particular line of work that may be studied. Never breed brother or sister, except in extreme cases to produce certain color or characteristics. Always see that the qualities lacking on one side are perfect on the other. Breeding mother to son and father 4;o daughter is the cor- rect way to start producing a strain of linebred animals, about the third or fourth generation new blood should be carefully introduced. CARING FOR THE YOUNG When a doe has been bred she should be kept as quiet as possible, and not handled. She should not be overfed, but should have plenty, and sometimes it pays to cater in a way to the appetite — for instance, a dish of bread and milk, a little rolled wheat or oats, especially if she is young. A doe bred at eight months has not her full growth, and re- quires a little more nutriment than the old doe, although one can hardly treat a bred doe too well, for on this depends largely the kind of young she will produce. There is quite a difference in the temperament of rabbits ; some make model mothers and others are vicious and will bite when you try to handle the young. Some will not allow a stranger to stand near the hutch, and will trample the young to death. Usually these does are fine mothers and it is well to see that they are not disturbed in any way, and that they have a hutch off by itself. Thirty to thirty-one days is the gestation period, but Mrs. Bunny is very particular to have everything in proper order, and in plenty of time, so in fifteen to eighteen days she starts to make her nest, and then she must have a clean box in a far corner, and plenty of nice, clean straw. She likes to make the nest herself, carrying the straw in her mouth, and scattering it all around the box until it is arranged to suit. The last day she pulls her fur, lines the nest and makes a nice, warm blanket to cover her young. When they are first born she covers them completely with Ridley's Rabbit and Cavy Book 37 this blanket. If the weather is warm you will see that it is carefully removed, to be replaced by evening. In handling- the young great care must be used, as some mothers resent the interference, but it is necessary to put one's hand in the nest and feel around carefully to see if there are any dead babies, and they must be removed. This is best done about the second or third day. If you give a doe a handful of some nice green food, of which she is very fond, especially when nursing, she is not likely to pay attention to what you are doing, although when the doe has become accustomed to the regular care taker she rarely minds these things. One should always speak kindly to them, and they will become great pets, many times coming to eat out of the hand. The eyes of the young are not open until about the ninth day — soon they get out of the box and begin to learn to eat. The nest box should have a top, so the doe can get out of the way of the young for a rest. Otherwise they worry her terribly, instead of learning to eat. Usually at six weeks the young are weaned, but there are exceptions, and some does will nurse their young until they are three months old. A doe like this is valuable for raising prize stock, as, of course, the longer they are nursed the finer the young. Such a doe should have only three or four babies, and be fed plenty of nourishing food, and the young will be monsters. No doe should be allowed to have more than six to nurse. The undersized, puny ones should be removed and done away with about three or four days after they are born. If the animal is a choice one and bred to a fine buck, it is wise to have "foster mothers" or "nurse does." This means an ordinary rabbit, kept for its nursing qualities, bred at the same time as the other, to a common buck, and if the fine doe has more than you want her to raise, the surplus are carefully taken to the common doe and her young destroyed. If it is not necessary to do this the common doe's young can be kept for the table, or raised for market. When the young are six weeks old the doe can be bred again and then put back with the young for two weeks longer. By this time the young should be large enough for market. If not, they must be removed to another hutch, for the bred doe will not have them around her any longer. In moving the young from, one nest to another, when they are first born, it is a good plan to take a little fur from the foster mother and rub around the strangers very care- 38 Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book fully to kill the smell of the nest where they were born. if the young, when old enough, are to be killed for mar- ket, they can be crowded, but if they are going to be raised for breeders, the sexes must be separated by three months, and put into nice sized hutches, with plenty of room for exercise. A long hutch should be provided with a hurdle for them to jump over, and shelves or boxes high enough for them to jump up and down. It is a good plan to have a run on the ground, but it must be well shaded and dry. Great care in keeping them out of the sun should be used. With fancy stock the sun's rays spoil the color of the fur and make it look faded and shabby. Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book 39 Feeding Feeding is of great importance, and is one of the secrets of success in this industry, for to feed market stock the food must be nourishing and must not be too costly. The grain that is the most plentiful to the location will, of course, be the cheapest. Some people feed their rabbits entirely on green feed and grow and thrive, but the flesh is soft and does not weigh like the grain-fed animal. Grain is therefore neces- sary, at least once a day, and rolled barley, oats, hay and bran, with weeds, vegetables and, in California, beet pulp mash, are the main feeds. Some feed all of the difi^erent vegetables, but potatoes are considered too starchy, unless cooked first. Rabbits love cabbage, but it makes the urine smell very strong. Lettuce contains so much water that it must be fed judiciously. All weeds and greens must never be fed wet. Lawn clippings are good, if not wet or heated, and great care must be used in this respect or sick rabbits will be the result, especially with the young. Never under any circumstances feed musty grain or hay. For the best results, feed night and morning, with fresh water in the middle of the day, in hot weather twice a day. Rabbits need a lot of water in the hot season, and to be successful in the warm climates this fact must be carefully heeded. A handful of grain to each rabbit in the morning, and some weeds, green alfalfa or carrots in the cool weather. In hot weather green only and hay in the evening, with some more weeds, alfalfa or grass — what you think they will eat up clean. Never throw greens in the hutches pro- miscuously. It means disaster soon or late. Remember musty hay, wet or stale greens, dirty water, bring disease and death. FEEDING THE YOUNG When the young first commence to eat it is economy to start them out right, and a dish of rolled oats, bread soaked in milk, not fed sloppy, and bran will be easier for them to digest than rolled barley. This is only necessary for a few days, unless one is inclined to feed rolled oats longer. It is the finest growing feed for the young, but somewhat 40 Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book _ , ^ , QUALITY _, ,^ ». , SAN D£.n SON SELF CLEANING HUTCHES Designed by Sanderson and Son, Eagle Rock City, Cal. expensive. Some say not to feed the young hay, but that is nonsense. If the hay is sweet and properly cured, it will not hurt them. Young rabbits are more easily affected by eating greens than the old ones, so extra care should be taken not to over feed them. If the mother has been fed on green food it will never hurt the young. SALT All animals need a per cent of salt, it is claimed, and the wild animals will go miles to get it, so we think it good for rabbits. Some keep rock salt always in the hutches, this is all right if it is clean, but the best way is to get dairy salt, which is quite cheap when sold by the pound, and sprinkle in small quantities on the grain or mash. This is a cleaner way than any other and the rabbits do not require much salt. Richev's Rabbit and Caw Book 41 A handful of linseed meal once a month is a splendid conditioner. It should be given a little oftener when pre- paring for the showroom, but not too much, as it is loosen- ing to the bowels. Beet pulp mash, in the sugar country, is cheap and good. Pulp must be soaked for an hour or so, then mixed with bran and a little alfalfa meal into a mealy mash and fed to young and old — all they will eat up clean in fifteen or twenty minutes. Formula for beet pulp mash: One part beet pulp, four parts water, boiling or cold; one part barley meal, one part bran, a little salt mixed into a dry mash. Never feed it sloppy. FEEDING THE BUCK In feeding the buck that is being used for breeding, care must be used to keep him in first-class condition. Re- member barley is heating and fattening. Oats are better, and when he is being used to the limit raw eggs occasionally mixed with bran or bread will keep him in good condition. He should not be mated more than twice a week and only when in good condition or the young will be rough coated. A CALIFORNIA RABBIT FARM VIEW OF HUTCHES USED BY CULVER CITY RABBITRY 42 Richex's Rabbit otid Caz'x Book The Culver City Rabbit Co.'s operating plants are ideal in their simplicity. Through years of experience in the meat packing business. Messrs. Kirby and Johnson make every step and every dollar invested count and operate the rabbit farm like a miniature packing plant. The breeding rabbits are mostly New Zealand Reds, which produce meat in the short- est possible time. As the markets call for a 13^ to 2^-pound rabbit, they kill the meat at three months, as it weighs 2^2 to 4 pounds alive at that age. They estimate their breeding stock on hand now at 1,200 breeding does and about 90 buck rabbits — all meat producers. PARTIAL VIEW OF CULVER CITY RABBIT FARM Tuesdays and Fridays are killing days at Culver City. The meat rabbits are skinned, trussed, and placed on ice over night and sent to the markets in the early morning. "One Los Angeles man, who makes a business of send- ing his trucks all over the city and surrounding territory for meat rabbits advertises continually for 1,000 meat rab- bits every week,'' said Mr. Kirby in explaining the big way in which rabbit meat has "taken hold" in Los Angeles. Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book 43 "There are two or three others who have a big trade also. These trucks collect the young rabbits alive from rabbit breeders who are raising a few or many in their back yards and pay 20c per pound and up — live weight. They are then taken to the dealer's yards, and killed at night, and de- livered next morning to the markets. The trouble is in getting the rabbits — not in selling the meat." The company has endeavored to cut costs in every pos- sible way. The rabbits are fed on oats, rolled barley, alfalfa hay and water. The hay is fed in self feeders and the grain and water are placed in heavy earthenware crocks which are cleaned scrupulously each week. The hutches are self- cleaning. Carefully kept cost sheets show that the meat rabbit cost ten cents a pound at three months, which is marketing age ; which takes into account the cost of the breeding stock, use of the stud bucks, losses, and labor cost. With rabbit meat selling at twenty cents, this looks very much like a fifty-fifty turnover. Rabbit byproducts are not overlooked at Culver City. The rabbit manure is sold for 15c per cubic foot to a Los Angeles fertilizer company who states that the orange growers prefer it to other fertilizers for their trees. Every rabbit skin is dried and sold. The larger skins are being reserved for tanning, and sale to passing tourists as auto robes, gauntlets, and the like. The offal, or waste from killing, is sold to a nearby hog and chicken ranch for feeding. "Everything but the squeal," says Mr. Kirby. "and rabbits don't squeal." 44 Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book Marketing Stock PREPARING FOR THE MARKET This part of the rabbit industry is the most serious, as many people who are excellent care takers are not good business people. To be successful in making money with rabbits, however, requires study and consideration. It is not difficult to dress a rabbit, and can be done rapidly after a little experience. To sell a rabbit at thirty- five cents a pound, dressed, to private customers, is far more ])rofitable than selling it to the butchers for fifteen to twenty cents per pound, alive. To the man who can guarantee a number of pounds every week, there are always regular buyers in the city only too glad to secure the meat that will satisfy their customers. Hotels and restaurants can also be supplied. If you want to make a business of rabbit raising, you must make up your mind to study the business end of it, and to make money requires a good sized rabbitry. TO TEMPT CUSTOMERS A nice fat, thick young rabbit, cleanly dressed, with a small bunch of parsley in its breast, will always bring a second order. It should be wrapped in a piece of white paper, tied with a clean, new string, or put in a carton made for that purpose. KILLING Rabbits are stunned instantly by a sharp, quick blow on the neck behind the ears. It can be done with the hand, if strong enough, or a short round stick. This should always hang in a handy place, to save time and temper. Two hooks at the right height for convenience should be fixed, and a bucket with some bran in it to catch the blood. The rabbit should immediately be hung by the hind legs, between the bone and tendon, and the head severed with a sharp knife. The head can be crushed and fed to the chickens, in place of buying cut bone or fresh meat, which is considered so es- sential for the laying hen, and the blood mixed in the mash is used for the same purpose. In Europe rabbits are al- ways sold with the head on, w'hich is cooked or used for soup stock. Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book 45 SKINNING The skin is started carefully by cutting with a sharp knife around the first joint or thigh of hind quarters, and worked carefully down to the middle, then cut across the vent and stripped ofT like a stocking, inside out. All pelts should be saved by splitting down the belly center, then stretched out and hung in the shade to dry. When dry they should be packed in a tighe box with moth balls until there is sufficient to send to the furrier or felt maker. Even if only a small amount is realized from the pelts, it is very little trouble to care for them in this way, and much better than burning or burying them. It is sur- prising how many will accumulate in a short time, and it should be remembered a dime saved is a dime earned, and ten dimes make a dollar. In stripping the skin be careful to leave all the fat pos- sible on the rabbit instead of pulling it ofif with the pelt, using the knife occasionally to loosen it, instead of tearing it. DRESSING Make a slit down the abdomen lengthwise about six inches long and remove the entrails, being careful not to break the bladder. Cut the gall bag from the liver, leave the kidneys where they are, then run the knife down the rectum and remove all dirt. Now the rabbit will lie flat and clean. Some butchers insist on having them bleached by laying them an hour in salt water. This is wrong, for it hides diseased livers and makes them mushy looking. They can be laid in salt water for half an hour just before being cooked. They must be laid or hung separately until they are chilled before packing. If any happen to be bloody they should be wiped with a wet cloth, not washed. ADVICE TO BEGINNERS Most people go into the rabbit, chicken or pet stock business through pure love for the work, and their fondness for pets. Sometimes, however, they think it a money-making business, but it is best to understand right from the start it is no "get rich quick" scheme. It takes a little capital, pa- tience and study to be successful, the same as any other business, and if one does not love animals it is disagreeable, monotonous work, as rabbits must be attended to regularly and the economy of feed, breeding, etc., studied with great care. 46 Rickey's Rabbit and Cai'y Book The best way to begin is to get a few rabbits and work with them for a time, possibly a year; then you will have gained experience and can tell if you wish to make it a regular business. If this is the decision, whether for mar ket, fancy or fur, the start can then be made in a safe, business-like manner. Any one getting into a new business, no matter what it is, must serve an apprenticeship. Drawbacks, disappointments and many annoyances will come to all, one time or another, and one must persevere against all odds to be successful. BUY PURE BRED STOCK The beginner should endeavor to start with pure bred stock. Not necessarily prize winners, but good blood and pure, as this will save many disappointments and it takes no more time or money to feed pure bred rabbits than mongrels, and the thoroughbreds always sell to an advantage. If raising only for the market, one needs good stock that will develop as quickly as possible and dress evenly. It is also best for the novice to have only one breed, and make a special study of that breed. Put them in the show room, join a club, read all books possible on the subject, and he will soon be heels over head in love with the work and probably create a strain that will make him famous in the rabbit world. HUTCHES The hutches are one of the principle things to be consid- ered when going into the rabbit business, as cleanliness and care mean everything toward success, and in having them made in the most convenient way possible regarding feeding and watering the care taker secures a great saving in time and labor. Of course, the climate must be taken into consideration also, for where the weather is very cold in the winter, rab- bits must be protected, notwithstanding they will stand very cold weather better than when it is hot. In the summer care should be taken to give them shade with curtains or have the hutches under trees. A walnut orchard is an ideal place for a rabbitry, as the trees shed their leaves in winter and give an abundance of shade in the summer. Some build their hutches with a double roof, allowing 6 to 8 inches be- tween the two, creating a circulation of air which cools the lower hutch roof. This is good in warm countries. Richcy's Rabbit and Cavy Book 47 The morning sun is needed in winter to dry out the hutches. In most localities it is best to have the hutches facing the east and, if a t'ght floor is used, both ends of the hutch should be open in summer, and one end closed in winter to prevent draughts. Rabbits need plenty of air, but no draughts or dampness. THE SELF-CLEANING HUTCH SELF-CLEANING HUTCH Caldwell Bros., Los Angeles The so-called "self-cleaning hutch" is a great labor saver, as the bottom or floor of the hutch is made of slats of one by one and a half inch lumber, placed far enough apart to let the droppings through. Three-fourths of one-half inch wire netting is also good, especially for fur rabbits, which must be kept perfectly clean, for if the fur is stained it is impossible to remove it. 48 Rickey's Rabbit and Caw Book HUTCHES MADE AND DESIGNED BY J. K. Oakland. Cal. DOLAN In all hutches a shelf or box with a top should be ar- ranged to give the rabbits exercise, and to enable the doe to get out of the way of her young, who prove very trouble- some at times when they are being weaned. Some of these self-cleaning hutches are patented by the owners, and they can make them cheaper than the individual, as everything is bought in large quantities at wholesale prices. However, any one with a little ingenuity can make them. Two hutches should be made with one door only, opening as conveniently as possible, either to the right or dropping down lengthwise. Thus, one movement treats two hutches, a great item in time saving when tending a number of rabbits. An opening should also be made between the two hutches in V shaped form, with one-half inch wire mesh on each side of the opening. This opening must be made in the door also, then two huches can be fed hay without opening the door. A hand cart, with square box, filled with hay or weeds, pushing a handful or two in each rack as one goes from hutch to hutch is the most convenient way to do the feed- Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book 49 ing. The hay should always be kept in a rack to prevent the rabbits eating that which is soiled, which they do when the hay is thrown in the hutches on the floor. In places where hay is high priced, it is also a great saving of feed. These self-cleaning hutches may be made in one or two tiers high; more than two being unsatisfactory, as the lowest one is disagreeably low, and the third tier too high for any one of ordinary height. If they are made in tiers, a solid roof must be arranged over the lower hutch, well slanted, to allow water from the upper hutch to run ofi^, and plenty of space to keep them clean. Occasionally they should be washed off with a garden hose, and some disinfectant sprinkled around. The second tier should have a solid roof to shed the rain, and made as high as convenient to the care taker. Nest boxes made according to size of breed ; do not crowd too much or make too large. You will find excellent examples of hutches in the illustrations. FEEDING TROUGHS Feeding troughs are a great problem, as rabbits are very mischievious. If made of wood they will chew them to pieces, and unless heavy enough or fastened securely they will eat or drink a little, and then turn the dishes over, spilling the feed and water before they have eaten half enough. Troughs should be made of, or bound with galvanized iron, and fastened to the hutches. At the feed and fancier stores in cities are to be found wide flanged crocks, made heavy, so the rabbits cannot get their teeth over them. These are fine for the water, as they are easily cleaned and the water keeps cool in hot weather. THE IDEAL HUTCH PLAN The ideal hutch plan is a long shed roof, back of the hutches, facing the east, the front opening inside the shed. A walk of four feet is allowed in the center, and on the opposite side from the hutches feed bins can be arranged to hold the necessary quantity that one should buy for economy's sake. The water should also be piped to the shed, and the care taker, who is often a woman, is protected from both heat and rain. In summer this shed can be opened up, and in severe weather closed. A curtain let down on the outside of the hutches will keep out the wind and rain, and shade them in extreme heat. 50 Ridley's Rabbit and Cavy Book THE MOVEABLE HUTCH A hutch that is very simple can be made to move into a field or orchard where there are weeds, or alfalfa, and should have the wire or slat floor. By moving occasionally the rabbits would almost feed themselves. These may be made any size that can be conveniently handled, leaving pieces of the frame extending out at the sides a few inches for handles. They should open at the top and have a movable stick nailed inside to hold the cover up while attending the animals. SOLID FLOOR HUTCH A solid floor hutch must be carefully made of tongued and grooved flooring, and when it has dried a floor putty should be used to fill the openings so the filth will not collect and cause disease. It is best to have them slanted slightly toward the back, and the space of an inch allowed so the droppings can run through. A board running along the back ten inches deep, on hinges, that will raise, is easily handled and one can take a scraper and draw out the refuse in a few seconds. The front should be made the same as that of the self-cleaning hutch, to open into two hutches for the hay. The size of the hutch will vary according to the breed, Flemish Giants needing a hutch as large again as the smaller breeds, such as Himalayas, Black and Tan, etc. The size of the large breeds should be at least four feet wide, twenty-seven inches to three feet high, and twenty- seven inches deep — or even thirty-six inches deep is better. For the medium sized rabbits three feet deep is large enough. Four feet by twenty-seven inches is easier to reach into, but it takes up more room, and sometimes that means a good deal to limited space. The Himalayas and smaller breeds can get on in small hutches, but it should be al- lowed to have as much space as possible. The nest boxes should be carefully selected, according to the size of the rabbit also, as it could not be expected that a rabbit weighing from twelve to fifteen pounds could do as well in a box fitted to a five pound rabbit. The boxes are much better when there is a solid top. These can be made like a lid with hinges to lift up, or with a door or movable opening in the end. enabling one to clean the box and watch the young. The opening should be according to the size of the rabbit and four or five inches from the floor. Riclicv's Rabbit and Cav\ Book 51 RABBIT WARRENS Rabbit warrens are a number of rabbits together on the ground, a raised place for them to burrow and make their nests. It has not been found to be successful so far for several reasons, but might pay in some localities. A run on the ground for young being raised for breeders is fine, with plenty of boxes for them to jump up and down and over, thus developing and making them vigorous and healthy. RABBITS AND THEIR FUR All rabbits, except the Angora, have fur, and there must be some attraction in the fur as an article of dress. If it resembles some well known fur, such as ermine, or fox, that is so much in demand, it is, of course, more valuable. COLLAR AND MUFF OF LONG HAIRED RABBIT To breed some of the rabbits up to this quality has been therefore, the aim and ambition of some of the rabbit fanciers in Europe for a number of years. The French and English have created the best known breeds of today, and particular attention has t^een paid to improving the quality of the fur, and thickness and 52 Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book toughness of the hides. The so-called fur bearers have been bred with this in view, so their hides are thicker and the hairs set deeply and they take the dye better when it is necessary to dye them. Most of the fur bearers, however, are bred in colors that do not have to be dyed. For in- stance, the Himalaya, the English, the Angora, the Havana, the Silvers, Black Flemish and New Zealand can be used without dying. The Black Plemish makes a good fur when in proper condition, providing it is a good black, but so many of them are a brownish black, which spoils the looks and they have to be dyed, the same as the other kinds of poor color. It is possible to breed up the Black Flemish to a blue black fur, and a large size, and to make a specialty of this would prove very profitable. THE PELT OF FRYERS It is wasteful to burn or bury any of the skins of rabbits, as the skin of the fryers can be stretched on a line in the shade until thoroughly dry and packed fur side together in a tight box with moth balls until they have accumulated enough to pay to ship by freight to some large city where there is a felt factory. The hair is shaved off and used in the manufacture of felt and the skins are made into glue. These do not bring much money, but ever so little is better than throwing them away. GROUP OF RICHEY REDS RAISED ON THE GROUND Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book WORK FOR WOMEN 53 It is profitable work for women to raise the fur bearing rabbits and learn to tan and make up the skins into pretty articles of wearing apparel. For the ambitious woman who ^^ J LADIES' FUR COAT MADE BY AN AMATEUR wishes to make some money and cannot leave her home it is a pleasant and profitable employment. She can attend the rabbits night and morning, and the other part of the 54 Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book work at odd times when through with her household duties, and will find it more enjoyable and easier than raising fryers for the market. It will be best to experiment with some of the common hides at first, as some care and knowledge will be required the same as any other business. The sewing must be neatly done, and the fur must be matched both in the marking and in the way the fur runs. To cut the furs into shape, tack the fur down on a flat board and carefully mark out the pattern wath a pencil. Then cut the pelt only with a sharp knife — not scissors — and pull apart. This will save the fur on the edges. To finish the edges run a piece of muslin one inch wide around the article, turn over and fasten down firmly in a hem, first laying a thin sheet of cotton next to the skin ; cover or line with silk or satin. These articles sell well, according to the quality of the fur, and the style and workmanship. There are several women already engaged in this busi- ness in Los Angeles and they cannot supply the demand. This industry is only just starting, and those who take up the work first will reap the benefits that come to the hustler. Tanning and preparing the hides will be given in another chapter. Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book 55 The Fur Rabbit HOW TO MANIPULATE THE FUR The fur rabbit must be fully developed before he is killed for his hide. Some must be older than others. The Himalayas are in good condition at five months, while the long haired breeds are in their prime at fifteen months, al- though they can be killed at eight months. To offset the time it takes to feed the larger rabbits the hides and carcass are much larger than the Himalayas and Havanas. They will dress only two pounds on an average ; the English will dress about four pounds. Rabbits are de- licious roasted or made into casserole dishes, pies, etc., and are far more profitable for the family table than the very young. The small rabbit can be used for fryers until they are six months old. The Giants have a heavier pelt, but the lur is coarser than the smaller breeds. SKINNING THE FUR RABBIT In skinning the fur rabbit care must be used not to cut the pelt and to get the skin off as clean as possible, as all the fat must be removed from the skin before it is tanned — it is just as well to leave it on the rabbit — thereby improving the eating quality of the meat, which has very little fat. The Himalaya skins should not be split, but peeled from the carcass like a stocking, and a piece of wool the right width, fitted into the skin without creases, fur side in, and put in the shade to dry. .Then it should be packed away carefully with moth balls in a tight box until ready to ship. Use a cedar chest if possible as the smell is not so dis- agreeable, and nothing in the way of insects can get into it. The long haired rabbits should be carefully skinned, the skin being split down the center of the belly and tacked on a straight board, care being taken to smooth out all the creases and wrinkles. Then rub some salt all over the skin and let it dry. A skin will clean easier and better after it has been salted and laid overnight, if not ready to finish treating, it can be laid away, fur side together, until time to finish tanning. Always dry the skins in the shade. 56 Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book TO TAKE BLOOD OFF FUR To take blood off of fur, wash with warm water, with a little blueing-, wring- and lay in gasoline for an hour, dry with corn meal. The meal is put on the wet hair and the part well beaten and brushed. The meal works more quickly if it is heated, and it can be used repeatedly until the fur is perfectly dry and fluffy. TO RELAX A DRY SKIN To relax a dry skin, wrap it in a damp cloth until the skin is soft, but the longer the skin remains dry the longer it takes to soften it. If too dry to soften with this treat- ment, it must be plunged into warm water — not hot — and let remain until soft enough to work, TO DRESS A SKIN After getting the skin into a softened condition all the flesh and fat must be scraped off with a blunt knife, work- ing from the tail to the head and crosswise. If the hair starts, a salt and alum bath is used. A mistake is made in using alum as a preservative and it should not be used un- less absolutely necessary to set the fur, as alum hardens and shrinks. The salt and alum bath is applied with a sponge, and liberal quantities or salt and alum used on both sides of the skin. After the skin is hardened it must be well washed in warm water and then treated with the tanning liquor alone. Do not scrape the skin any more than pos- sible to get it clean. If the skins are greasy, they should be washed in warm water to which a little washing soda has been added, after which they should be wrung out and placed in gasoline for an hour, then hung up to dry away from light or fire. When placed in the tanning liquor during the first few hours the skins should be moved about to get them per- fectly soaked. It takes from forty-eight hours to three weeks to tan a skin, according to the age and thickness of the pelt. Sawdust is also used in preparing the skins. It must be fin*^ and perfectly clean and dry. After the skin has been softened and tanned, it must be dried and cleaned with either the corn meal or fine sawdust. Stains must have been removed before starting to tan, directions for which have already been given. Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book 57 If it is required to keep the fur side dry, the tanning liquor is sponged on the skin side for a couple of days, being sure to keep it wet. Then fold together, skin in, fur out, and lay aside until ready to work. It does not hurt the fur to be laid in the tanning solution, but it must be washed in warm water as described before finishing. After the skin is cleaned, tanned and washed it can be hung on the line to partly dry, and then must be worked until perfectly soft and pliable. Some do this with the hands, but the best way is to beat the skin with a rattan beater, such as are used in the house for cushions and clothes, rubbing the warm cornmeal or sawdust into the fur side continually until the skin is soft and pliable and the fur is clean and glossy. The long fur must be combed and brushed until the knots are removed. The skin is then ready to be made up. TANNING FORMULA Water one gallon, salt one quart; bring to boiling point to dissolve salt. When luke warm add one-half ounce of sulphuric acid. Skins can be laid in this, or they can be sponged on skin side, folded and laid by for a day or two, until they will work up easily into a soft, white piece. REMARKS Skins must not be left in water or the hair will fall. After cleaning the furs and partly drying them, they can be rolled in a cloth and laid aside for a short time until con- venient to manipulate them, which must be kept up until soft and dry. THE SHOWS The idea of showing rabbits in public competition origini- nated in England many years ago. The English have al- ways been intensely fond of all sports, gardening and agri- cultural pursuits, and the raising of pure blooded animals of all kinds, and rich and poor, young and old, all over the country are interested in some hobby. Consequently they have become great authorities on these subjects, and it is to the English we have had to go for the most of the fine stock that gave the Americans a start in rabbits in this country. But Americans can make some fine showing now of the different strains they have created and do not have to go abroad any more, unless for some new breed, the im- 58 Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book provement in the animals that are showing here every year being truly remarkable, both in number and quality. The shows do a great amount of good, as they bring the best of all the different specimens together in compe- tition, thus enabling the breeder to advertise his stock, and the purchaser to see exactly what he is getting. Another good feature of the show is that it arouses the sporting blood and exertion is used to produce perfection in every detail. There is something in the human makeup that loves to excel. In raising animals for the show it requires skill as well as industry, for the animal, to be at its best for the show room, must be bred just at the right time for the class in which it is to be entered, and also be in the pink of condition. The fancier breeds for all these points — size, shape, color, quality of fur and general condition. He therefore makes a study of his special breed, and when he wins the blue ribbon he is well repaid for his time, not only in the fi- nancial part of the game, but as an artist he forgets to be mercenary in the joy and pleasure of his work. TO PREPARE FOR EXHIBITION To prepare a rabbit for exhibition choose one from a number and give special care to their feeding and grooming. They must be handled often and petted to make them tame, so when the judge is handling them they will behave them- selves, and not scratch and bite and otherwise spoil their chances for winning a prize. They must also be watched so they are the weight called for by the Standard, and some of the foods that will help to make the fur thick and glossy should be fed to them. As the time for the show draws near they must be carefully brushed and rubbed the right way with the palms of the hand, from the neck down to the tail and down the sides until they shine like satin. If the rabbit has a light fur, care must be taken to keep it perfectly free from stains, as the animal must not be washed. The white should be cleaned with a little dry magnesia sprinkled on and brushed and combed carefully. See that the rabbit has no disqualifications such as wry tail, crooked legs, or colored marks, or is shedding. If th*s should happen it is waste of time to bother to put him into the show, as he will be put aside, out of the competition. Sometimes a beautiful specimen will start to shed a day Rickey's Rabbit and Caz'y Book 59 or two before the show opens, which is very aggravating, but one has to bear these disappointments and make the best of it, and the next time their turn will come. All animals showing any form of disease, however slight, are also barred from the show room. When you have made your entry be satisfied to leave the result to the judge's decision. No matter how fine you think your rabbit is, when he is compared with others the least trifling defect will be noticed, and a judge often has a hard time to de- cide on several fine specimens. Remember if you do not win this time, for some slight reason, maybe the next show everything will come your way. Courtesy and kindness in the show room brings its reward. A GROOMING TABLE A grooming table can be made that will be a great help in training and grooming your rabbit by tacking a piece of burlap on a stand the right height for comfort. The rabbit has a chance to hold itself steady by fixing its claws into the burlap and you will find that after the fright from being first handled is over, Mr. and Mrs. Bunny really en- joy being groomed. They should be handled gently, as too hard a rubbing breaks them down and they will look squatty. A pair of gloves can be bought for fifty cents at i-he fancier's stores that are nice for this work. CONDITIONING FOR THE SHOW ROOM A little extra feed when getting in condition for the showroom, Flaxseed cooked until it forms a jelly — some sunflower seeds — raw eggs — a very small quantity of red pepper added to the morning mash will be found to greatly improve the coat — also plenty of carrots. Do not get too fat or the animal will be spoilled for future use. THE RABBIT AS FOOD So much has been said of the food value of the do- mestic rabbit in the last three or four years in the papers and magazines that it seems hardly possible there is any one who does not know and appreciate this wonderful little animal which, for little expense and care will give so much in return, both for the inside and outside of the human family. 60 Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book As a food for children and invalids it cannot be excelled. No flesh or fowl is so easily digested as rabbit meat when boiled or baked, and government statistics give to it a much larger percentage of nutriment than either beef, pork or mutton. The demand for rabbits in the hospitals and sanitariums far exceeds the call for chickens. One reason, also, for this is that rabbits give much more meat per pound than chickens, and have a very small percentage of fat. The rabbit is a very cleanly animal when given the proper care and right hutches and its food being all clean grain and green stufif, the meat has the finest flavor and quality. There never should be the slightest smell around the rabbitry, and they are entirely free from vermin except in some locations where there are a few fleas. But it is not necessary to be bothered with them very long. Every family should have rabbit served in some form twice a week, thereby saving the butcher's bill that is such a worry to the housewife at the present time. Four does and a buck should keep a family well supplied and some- times a few over for sale or for presents to sick friends. The work of caring for them should be very light, and the profits large. During the present time rabbits retail in Los Angeles at fifty to sixty cents a pound. Cooking the Rabbit Rabbit may be served in all the different ways that hold good for chicken — roasted, fried, potted, pressed, pot- pies, baked pies, casseroled, creamed in patties, minced on toast, jugged, Hassenpfeffer, Spanish, curried with rice, stewed, etc. But in cooking, it must be borne in mind that there is very little fat, and in frying and baking plenty of fat should be supplied. Fat bacon gives a fine flavor, and a little salt pork cut up in the boiling pot gives just enough richness to make it enjoyable. For roasting, the older rabbits that have been raised for the fur, are just right, also for boiling in the different ways. For fryers the young are used from eight to ten weeks old. The market calls for rabbits weighing from one and a quarter to one and a half pounds each, but they are much more economical and better eating at twelve weeks, when they weigh much more in proportion. Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book 61 THE MANURE The value of rabbit manure is no small item, for it is equal to sheep manure and after being pulverized is used for lawns. It retails at about $2.00 to $2.50 per sack in the cities, and is half the battle in raising a garden, as it light- ens up the soil as well as enriches it. It can be put on the ground .fresh from the rabbitry, providing it does not touch the stems or roots. When using it this way, nothing is lost, as the soil takes up all the ammonia that is wasted on the ma- nure pile. When holding the manure for sale a concrete floor sunk into the ground about a foot, with a shed roof over it, will keep it in good condition until ready to be cart- ed away. When preparing for sale in this way the straw and hay should be raked off and put in a place by itself to rot. This will lighten heavy soil and conserve the moisture in sandy soil. It is not so heating nor as concentrated as chicken manure. Rabbit Diseases Rabbits are, as a rule, very hardy and if properly bred have very few diseases. Too much inbreeding will cause any animal to be delicate and have young that will also be susceptible to different complaints such as spotted liver, abcesses, snuffles, etc. Most of these diseases, however, are brought on by filth through the carelessness of the breeder. If one starts with healthy stock and uses good judgment sick rabbits will be rare. Should serious sickness occur, however, it is better. to kill the rabbit and bury it deep, to prevent the disease spreading. Every rabbitry should have a hospital, and if any show signs of sickness they should be removed from the hutches at once and carefully treated until entirely cured, or put out of misery. Most of the trouble is caused by dampness, musty feed, wet green stuff and being crowded. If a rabbit looks dumpy and out of sorts, sometimes a run on the ground for a while will cure him. The hutches should always be large enough for plenty of exercise when the young are being raised for breeders. Draughts will also give rabbits a cold, and they will sneeze like human beings and this must be watched and treated before it goes too far. 62 Rickey's Rabbit a>id Cary Book There are many remedies advertised to cure different complaints, but if it is necessary to use much medicine there is something wrong and one should stop raising breeders from such stock. A few simple remedies are all that is re- quired, and these should be on hand at all times, so there is no delay in using them if necessary. Disinfectants of some kind are always needed and for a large rabbitry it is best to buy by the quart or gallon as it is so much cheaper than getting a few cents' worth at a time. Those made with creosote are the most pleasant to use and it is well to re- member "An ounce of prevention is better than a pound of cure." COLD — The symptoms are sneezing at first, and after a while a disagreeable mucous makes its appearance. If this is not cured, it finally ends in "snufflles," which is the most troublesome of all diseases to cure. If taken in time a cure is easy. TREATMENT— Move to a warm, sheltered hutch, free from dampness and draughts. Have on hand oil of amber or eucalyptus oil. Keep some in a small machine oil can ; hold the head back carefully and pump into each nostril a few drops of the oil, keeping the head back until the oil has time to get into the nasal cavities. Do this each day, and if the animal is bad hold the nose in some warm water in which a few drops of vinegar have been added. Let them sneeze and cough good, then use the oil. It is also well to give a warm mash mixed with some linseed meal. SNUFFLES — Are caused from a bad cold and should be treated the same, and if the animal is getting thin and won't eat, kill it at once. Experience teaches that a bad case is hopeless, and if it starts plenty of disinfectant should be used all around the hutches, as the disease will spread. ABSCESS — A hard lump forms on some part of the body; if near the eye it is usually fatal, but on other parts of the body it can be treated and cured. Do not open the abscess until you are sure it is ripe, and sometimes it breaks without help. Cut the hair around the wound and bathe well with warm water and disinfectant, squeezing the matter out gently. When you think it is all out, wipe with soft cloth and put some peroxide of hydrogen on to clean it thoroughly. The w^ound should be treated for two or three days to keep it open and let the pus escape. A little boracic ointment put over the wound will protect it from flies, etc. Ridley's Rabbit and Cavy Book 63 Feed half a teaspoonful of flour of sulphur in a warm mash of boiled potatoes or bread and milk if the rabbit will eat it, and some fresh green food. BOILS AND SORE HOCKS— Sore hocks are really boils caused from rubbing on a rough floor, or because of a dirty hutch. The hair comes oft' and the place gets in- flamed and a boil forms. Rabbits raised on open hutch bottoms are seldom troubled with this. Put the rabbit on clean, soft bedding of sawdust, and treat the same as above for abscess. A run on soft ground is good. Do not feed much grain. COLD IN THE EYES— This is very rare if the hutches and nests are properly made. TREATMENT — Bathe the eyes once or twice a day with sulphate of zinc lotion, two grains to one ounce of water or boracic acid, one grain to five or six ounces of water. Keep animal free from draughts. COLIC — Is caused by feeding improper food. The ani- mal is restless and seems in pain, and the belly is more or less distended with gas. TREATMENT — Keep the rabbit warm and give a teaspoonful of castor oil. If very bad, rub gently with weak mustard and warm water. CONSTIPATION— Is caused by feeding nothing but dry food. Change the diet to some fresh green food and carrots. DISEASED OR SPOTTED LIVER— The attack upon the liver is caused by a small parasite called a "fluke," which attaches itself to the liver and causes it to decay, and even- tually rot away. It is considered difficult to cure, and can be easily told by the difficulty the animal has in breathing. It will not happen if rabbits are fed carrots twice a week. No young should ever be raised for breeding purposes from a rabbit so afi^ected. TREATMENT — Give one grain of calomel in two doses at intervals of twelve hours, and feed dandelion, carrots and bread and milk — warm, if the weather is cold. POT BELLY — This is usually only among the young, and comes from eating wet green food, musty hay or grain. The body becomes swollen and the little one soon dies. TREATMENT — Some peppermint on a piece of bread forced into the mouth at the side of the jaw. Keep warm and feed dry feed for a day or two until the patient is itself again. 64 Rickey s Rabbit and Cavy Boole ERUPTIONS— Little sores will be found in spots, and the hair falls off. Impure air and dirty surroundings are the cause, TREATMENT — Remove the cause and apply a good ointment. FLEAS — Rabbits are not troubled with any kind of vermin except, occasionally, fleas in some localities. Care must be taken to remore the bedding as soon as possible, and give some fresh, clean hay, or dried grass. •TREATMENT— If the fleas are bad, rub the rabbit with Buhach powder and hold the rabbit on a piece of cloth and the fleas will drop off and can be burned. If the fleas are not bad, dip a piece of cloth in 'kerosene and wipe gently over the fur, and they will leave. Sprinkle kerosene and disinfectants all around the hutches, but not in nests. DIARRHOEA — Caused from wrong feeding; wet, musty, stale food, or too much green food ; fatal if not stopped in time. Give very little water, and feed dry food. Mix some cinnamon in something they like, such as bran, rolled oats or bread and boiled milk. Crushed juniper berries are also good. MOULTING OR SHEDDING— Rabbits commence their first moult from eight to ten weeks of age, which is a critical time in their lives. If one wants to raise fine breed- ing stock extra care will pay. Some fanciers leave the young with their mothers until this trying time is passed. Feed plenty of nutritious food, such as barley meal, soaked peas, mash with a little linseed meal to which add a little salt. PARALYSIS — This disease attacks the hind quarters, and the rabbit has great difficulty in moving. Dampness is supposed to be the cause of this. The attack usually lasts eight or ten days. TREATMENT — Mix two grains of camphor, one grain of sulphate of iron, and a little powdered licorice into pills. Give every other day. Rub a little weak mustard and water well in along the spine and over the loins and keep warm. SLOBBERS — Is a running of the mouth caused by care- lessness in feeding — for instance, the young eat too soon of grain and it causes indigestion, or green food may be the cause. TREATMENT— Rub a little table salt around the mouth, or wash the mouth with a solution of weak alum Ridley's Rabbit and Cavy Book 65 and water. For a day or two feed soft feed that is easily digested. VENEREAL DISEASE— Venereal disease or disease of the sexual organs is very rare, but is extremely catching and sometimes difficult to cure. It is said by good authority to be similar to gonorrhoea and comes from dirt and care- lessness. The rabbits should be examined occasionally and doubtful cases treated, and not used until all doubt is past. TREATMENT— Wash in warm water with a little dis- infectant in the water, wipe dry and spread a little ointment on that contains no poison. Do this every day until cured. If bad sores appear touch each place carefully with nitrate of silver. YOUNG DIE IN A FEW DAYS— The cause of young dying in a few days or weeks after being born, as the result of too close inbreeding, parents not being properly developed before being bred the first time, or the doe has not enough milk to nurse. If this is the case her appetite should be catered to by a little extra food, such as bread and milk, rolled oats, green clover or alfalfa. SCABBY EAR— Is the result of a mite called "Der- matocoptes," which works similar to the mite which causes scaly legs in chickens. If neglected ear canker will develop. Dirt and neglected colds are the cause of the trouble, and unless prevented by treatment the canker eats back into the head, severe inflammation setting in and after much misery the animal passes away. TREATMENT— Take equal parts of ether, alcohol and Peru balsam, drop with a m.edicine dropper in the ear pocket. One or two applications will usually cure. If very scabby, after the first application, lift out with something that is not too sharp. If impossible to get the above ingredients, take flour of sulphur and olive oil, equal parts. It is a good plan to examine the ears occasionally to prevent this trouble. RABBITS WON'T BREED— Trouble sometimes comes to the breeder by the doe refusing service. This is caused often by the doe being too fat; a run on the ground for a time is often effectual and do not feed so heavily. If this does not help, the doe is of no use. Sometimes a doe will take a dislike to a certain buck; sometimes hot weather makes them cranky and obstinate. 66 Rickey's Rabbit and Caz'y Book AURACARIA, OR WATER BLISTER— A soft swell- ing under the skin, not serious and easily cured. Feed most- ly green feed and roots. Sometimes it will disappear, if it does not, it can be removed by cutting and carefully re- moving the sack, washing with warm water in which some mild disinfectant has been added. Wipe dry and paint with iodine. MANGE — Similar to mange in dogs and very rare. Dirty hutches and careless feeding are the cause. Eyes are sore and red, fur comes off in patches. TREATMENT — Touch places with some boracic oint- ment and wash eyes in solution of boracic acid. Clean quarters thoroughly. RABBITS EAT YOUNG— This rarely happens and is hard to cure. Some say a piece of bacon put into the hutch will satisfy the unnatural craving. After the second trial, if she still persists in eating her young, do away with her. Richey's Rabbit and Cavy Book 67 Recipes for Cooking Rabbits In cooking rabbit one must remember that the animal has very Httle fat, consequently one must fry in plenty of fat, or, if roasted, it must be well basted; fat pork or bacon is the best for this, as the flavor makes it delicious eating. When buying rabbits for the table see that they look a pinkish color, and that the liver is clean and without spots ; then you know it was healthy and fit for food. Never buy a rabbit that has been bleached, as you cannot detect any defects, as the bleaching obliterates spotted livers, and one cannot tell how long it has been killed. A rabbit is much finer eating after it has been killed twenty-four hours. Be- fore cooking, let it lay in salt water for an hour ; this makes the meat white. Do not let it lay longer, as the flavor and goodness of the meat is drawn out and thrown away with the water. It is not necessary to do this unless you want to bleach it. If the rabbit is clean and healthy, it is only necessary to wash it thoroughly. Always season the rabbit with salt and pepper, according to taste, before cooking. Rabbit, cooked properly, is a most delicious and nourish- ing dish. For invalids it is better to stew or fricassee, as the absence of fat makes it so much easier to digest. HASSENPFEFFER Cut up a rabbit, about four or five pounds, in pieces, wash and place in vinegar, or vinegar water, according to taste, for two or three days, turning every day. Fry some onions in butter or suet, add a spoonful of flour, add bo'ling water enough to make a sauce, add cloves and pepper and bay leaves. Put in the pieces of rabbit, cover and let simmer until tender. Add liquid that rabbit was pickled in, as much as will make it sour to taste, a glass of red wine is an improvement, but not necessary. Serve with red currant jelly or plum jam. RABBIT FRICASSEE Cut a four-pound rabbit into joints, wash and put into a pot. Cover with cold water and let come to a boil. Skim carefully until all skum is removed, season with salt and 68 Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book pepper, add onion or parsley. Melt half a cup of butter, and stir in two-thirds of a cup of flour until smooth ; stir this into the broth carefully so as to keep rabbit whole- Toast slices of bread or split hot biscuit, lay in a warm platter and pour the rabbit and sauce over, and serve with currant jelly, roselle, or plum jelly. ROAST RABBIT Take a four or five pound rabbit, take out the liver and lights, wash and lay in a baking pan, season with salt and pepper inside and out, make a dressing of bread crumbs, or soaked bread, squeeze dry, add a teaspoonful of butter, one egg, salt and pepper — dash of paprika and a little thyme and marjoram, work all together, fill the body of the rabbit, sew with twine or skewer, dredge with flour, and lay strips of fat bacon across, put in oven and cook for one hour, basting wnth fat occasionally. When cooked enough serve with brown gravy and jelly. RABBIT PIE Cut up rabbit into medium sized pieces, boil with an onion, pepper and salt, a slice of fat pork (salt) cut up in small pieces ; when almost tender line the sides of a baking dish with a light crust of pastry, put in the rabbit and a small quantity of the liquor, cover with the pastry rolled out almost half an inch thick, pinching all around the edges to keep in the gravy; make a hole in the center to let out steam, and bake until a nice brown — about an hour ; thicken the stock that is left with a little flour and serve with the pie, on the side. PRESSED RABBIT Boil an old rabbit until well done, pick out the bones, and pull the meat apart with a fork (don't chop), season with salt, pepper and celery, cut fine, mix all well together, boil the liquor in which the rabbit was cooked down to less than a quart, and add a lump of butter the size of an egg and a half box of gelatin, stir well and pour over the rabbit ; mix all together and put in an earthen dish ; cover with a plate, place a weight on top and set away to get cold. Serve with potato salad and garnish with parsley and jelly. Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book 69 BOILED RABBIT WITH RICE Take a medium sized rabbit, fill with pork sausage and bread crumbs, season with salt and pepper, sew up body with fine twine, tie legs together, put in pot and cover with water, slightly salted, a small onion and two small blades of mace. Stew very gently for one hour ; when it is half done put in a quarter of a pint of well washed rice, cover tight and let simmer until cooked. Then lift out the rabbit, strain the rice in a sieve, in the meantime keeping the rabbit hot, let rice dry a little, then put around the rabbit. Have a lump of butter about the size of an egg and some chopped parsley and drop into liquor, let boil up and put over the rabbit in the center of the platter. Serve with boiled onions- RABBIT EN CASSEROLE Take a young rabbit, disjoint, wash and drain, dust light- ly with flour, pepper, salt and paprika. To three tablespoon- fuls of butter or fat from bacon or salt pork add one slice each of onion and carrot, half stalk of celery, half bay leaf, and let cook a few minutes, saute rabbit in hot fat, remove to casserole and add one and three-fourths cups of hot water; cover closely and let simmer about an hour. A tablespoonful of sherry and a cup of canned mushrooms are a decided improvement, but not necessary. Celery and carrot should be removed when ready to thicken the liquor. Blend a tablespoon of flour with one of butter, moisten with hot liquor and add to casserole, cook ten minutes, send to table to be served from casserole. Mashed potatoes and green peas or string beans make an excellent accompani- ment. RABBIT LIVER AND BACON Rabbit liver makes an excellent meal fried with bacon. Take two or three livers, cut in small pieces, roll in flour, pepper and salt, drop in boiling fat that comes from the bacon, and arrange on platter with thin, crisp slices of bacon and potato marbles. Garnish with parsley or watercress. CURRIED RABBIT You need the remains of cold rabbit, or young rabbit, two anions, one apple, two ounces of butter, one desertspoon of curry powder, one teaspoon of flour, half pint of stock or 70 Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book gravy, one tablespoon of lemon juice; slice the onion, peel, core and chop the apple, cut the rabbit into joints, fry these in the butter a nice brown, add the curry powder, flour and stock or gravy, and stew about twenty minutes, then add lemon juice- Serve with boiled rice. FRIED RABBIT AND CREAM GRAVY Take a young rabbit, eight to twelve weeks old, joint, wash and dry, roll in flour seasoned with pepper and salt, drop in boiling fat— pork or bacon gives a nice flavor. Fry a nice brown, covered not tight or it will steam, but if covered the juice of the meat stays in and makes much better eating. When a nice brown lift and place on platter (hot), shake some flour in the boiling fat, stir around with cooking spoon, and when brown add a pint of milk, stir carefully to keep out lumps, pour over rabbit and garnish with parsley. Serve with hot biscuit or jelly. RABBIT RISSOLES Make a nice puff paste, have some rabbit meat chopped fine, season with salt, pepper and a dash of paprika, roll out paste thin, sprinkle chopped meat on half paste, then double over and cut in squares ; press edges together, and drop into boiling fat until brown. Sprinkle a little grated cheese over the top after lifting them, and place on a hot ])latter and serve with jelly, POTTED RABBIT Old rabbit can be used for this. The jars can be closed tight and be kept for a long time in a cool place — nice for picnics and lunches. Cut the rabbit into small pieces, cook in as little water as possible until meat falls from bone ; remove bones and strain liquor ; chop or mash in a mortar all meat, adding a tablespoonful of butter and seasoning — a little cayenne pepper makes a nice flavor — work into a paste, pack tight into jars, and seal tight. BRAISED RABBIT An old rabbit can also be used for this. Have an iron pot as for pot roast, cut rabbit into pieces at the joints, fry a nice brown in butter or fat, add an onion or two, ac- Rickey's Rabbit and Cai'y Book 71 cording to size, sliced, and stir around so it does not burn, season and add a little water, cover tight and let simmer, stirring and adding a little water to keep from burning- When tender turn in a can of mushrooms, if possible, or ansome carrots can be browned with the rabbit, if the mush- rooms are not handy. Make some thickening with flour and water and stir in the whole ; be sure to add plenty of water before stirring in the thickening. RABBIT SPANISH Joint a young or old rabbit and cook according to age. Treat same as for braised, adding a teaspoonful of Chili pepper and half a pint of ripe olives, and a can of tomatoes, Spanish; thicken with flour and serve with Mexican beans. HASSENPFEFFER South German Style Select a rabbit not less than six months of age (a year old is even better). Kill and dress in the usual manner and hang in a cool place for two or three days. If possible to freeze, the flavor will be improved. Cut up the rabbit in suitable pieces as for fricassee, wash and dry with clean cloth. Rub pepper and salt well into the meat, place in a large bowl and pour over it one cup of wine vinegar and one-half cup of water. Slice two onions, two or three slices of lemon, two or three sprigs of parsley, two slices of celery root, a small piece of leek, one carrot cut in two pieces, one bay leaf, two whole cloves, four juniper berries. Place these with the meat and let stand for two or three days- At the end of this period take the rabbit meat, place in a roasting pan and pour over it three-qiiarters cup of melted butter or bacon fat. Let stand for about half an hour. Then pour over the meat a tablespoonful of the liquor from the bowl, including a portion of the various condi- ments, and a tablespoonful of soup stock if on hand. Cover and place in the oven to roast. When nearly done pour over the meat one-half cup of sour cream, and let roast a little longer. In roasting a good sized piece of fat pork will improve the flavor if roasted with the rabbit. When the meat is done, strain the gravy and serve with spinach and jelly. 72 Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book RABBIT PATTIFP Take a young rabbit, joint and cook in a little water until tender, cut the meat into dice, remove the bones, strain the liquor, season, put back to boil, and add a pint of milk and a tablespoon of butter; thicken with flour, and put rab- bit cubes back in liquor; when hot pour in patty shells. Serve with green peas. TAMALES Rabbit can be prepared for tamales the same way that chicken is fixed, and one never could tell the difference. Old rabbits are good as they are stewed until tender- Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book 73 CAVIES Cavies, or guinea pigs, as they are commonly called, are similar to the rabbit in their habits. They are delicious eat- ing, although very few people in this country have tried them so far, but it is only a short time since the domestic rabbit was considered fit for food, and the cavy is be- coming better known all the time, and no doubt in the near A HANDSOME TORTOISE AND WHITE BOAR future, roast cavy will be added to the menu. It is similar to sucking pig in flavor, that is considered such a luxury at Christmas time, when stuffed and roasted the same way. To prepare for the table, stick with sharp pointed knife and let bleed, then dip into scalding water and scrape the same as other pigs, slit down the belly and take out the offal, saving the liver. Lay in salt water for an hour, wipe dry, season and fill carcass with chopped boiled onion, bread cruri^bs, and a little powdered sage, dredge with flour and bake with sweet potatoes. CARE OF THE CAVY Cavies are very easy to care for, but must be properly treated and kept clean, or they will not thrive.' Their main food is green vegetables and grass clippings. A little stale 74 Rickey s Rabbit and Caz'v Book bread, some rolled barley or oats is enjoyed by them, but they must not be overfed br they will get too fat and lose their young. Potatoes are not good, they contain too much starch, and, like rabbits, they must not be fed wet or musty hay or stale vegetables. HOW TO HOUSE THEM Cavies can be raised on the ground, as they do not dig out. A runway, covered with chicken wire, small mesh, with a house on one end, raised a few inches from the BLACK ENGLISH CAVY ground, is an ideal home for them. They must have a dry place to go in rainy weather- They can also be kept in rabbit hutches. Many people let them run together, so many males to so many females. About six females to one male is sufficient, for too many males ruin the females and spoil them for breeding. They must have some small nest boxes and straw or dry grass for their beds. DIFFERENT BREEDS There are nine different breeds in the Standard of Per- fection. The Abbyssinian is an odd little animal with ro- settes all over its body of fur. The hair is rough and wiry and must not be more than one and one-half inches in length. Another breed that is called English (Selfs) are a solid even color all over, and short fur, very glossy. They cqme in black, cream, chocolate, blue, red and white. There Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book 75 are also the Dutch and Himalayan, these have the same markings as the rabbits of that name. There are tortoise and white, and tortoise. Agoutis, golden and silver gray- Brindles are black and red mixed all over bodv. The Peru- vian, the oldest of all, has hair so long that one cannot see the head, and it is hard to tell which is the back and which PERUVIAN CAVY is the front. The fur is very long and silky all over the body. They come in white and different colors. There is no known use at the present time for the fur of the Cavy. There are many breeders all over the country who raise them as ornaments and pets, and there is a na- tional association the same as for rabbits, and there are usually a number exhibited at shows. They are used a great deal in this country in laboratories for medical ex- perimental purposes, as they are delicately organized and their blood comes nearest to the human of any of the animals. Light solid colors are in most demand for this work, and it is said to be quite a profitable business. BREEDING Cavies are very gentle and good mothers as a rule. Some- times they will eat their young, and when such is found to be the case, it is best to do away with them, as this bad 76 Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book habit once formed is hard to break. Cavies can be bred three times a year, and of course, with extra care will produce finer specimens. They usually have about four to six to a litter, and grow very rapidly. To produce the finest specimens one should keep the sow by herself. In breeding the colors, judgment must be used the same as in rabbits, as like produces like. CHARACTERISTICS OF THE CAVY Blunt nose, short ears, which should neither stand up- right or hang down, but extend straight away from the head ; the eye is very prominent ; they have four toes on their fore feet and three on their hind feet ; the toes are free from web, the nails being neither long nor sharp. There are two peculiar things about the cavy- — they have no tails and need water only if fed dry feed. Fresh green food twice a day will supply moisture enough. The cavy is an animal in a class by itself, has practically the same characteristics of the rabbit, thrives on almost the same food, but does not scratch and bite like rabbits, so makes a splendid pet. ORIGIN OF THE CAVY To get the positive truth about the origin of the cavy seems an impossibility, though much has been done to se- cure it. Mr. Edwin F. Deickc, in "Cavies for Pleasure and Profit," tells us they were introduced into Europe during the sixteenth century by the Spanish people returning from South America, principally from the Peru and Bolivia re- gions, where the- Spanish found the natives using them as food. BREEDING METHODS Care in breeding cavies should be used if one wants fine stock, and the same as rabbits, it pays to get the best and raise them carefully, as the finer the specimens, the more valuable they are, and five dollars is made just as easily as fifty cents, as far as time and trouble go, and it is just as easy to study correct breeding, and far more interesting than to breed them any old way- First, sows should not be al- lowed to be with the boar until four months old, and boars should be six months old. Sows will produce on an average, Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book 77 twelve pigs per year ; period of gestation is from sixty-five to seventy days. When the young are born they are fully developed, with their eyes open and eat before they are twelve hours old. The young should be weaned in three weeks sometimes four. After the sow has had one week's rest she can be bred to the boar again. Boars should not be permitted to be with the sows when they have young. A six months' old boar can be put in the pen with three or four sows, not more, until he is ten months old, then he may have six to ten breeding sows. Soon as the sows are found to be pregnant, they should be at once removed to a hutch by themselves. IDEAL CAVY HUTCHES Shelves Are Flanged and Run In and Out — Pull Out a Dirty One and Slide a Clean One In — Easiest and Best I Have Ever Seen — Can Be Made of V/ood or Galvanized iron — Sawdust on Every Shelf 78 Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book 7^ 80 Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book LIBRftRY OF CONGRESS lliiiiiilllliililllllillliii 002 845 739 ft ,27**— ;••» •> ^ -'^_ WHERE^ to buy foods, remedies and sup- plies is quite as important as right selec- tion of breed. At Germain's you obtain food which keeps rabbits in a healthy, profitable condition. If your rabbits are sick— we have PROVKN remedies to cure their ailments. An emer- gency shelf of rabbit remedies will prove the best investment you ever made. See Germain's for rabbit supplies of all kinds — reliable books, sanitary feeders and fountains, salt-and-sulphur spools, etc. For special information and advice address our Pet Stock Expert. Established 1671 Seed & Plant Ca N.E. Comei'* Sixth ^ Main St& Op-p. P.B. Depot Los Angeles, Cal. #