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WITH HIS FAIIILIAR FOREIGN JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 THROUGH PORTIONS OF ENGLAND, SCOTLAND, 
 
 FRANCE AND ITALY. 
 
 J- ^» . y« / 
 
 PRINTED FOR PRIVATE CIRCULATION, 
 
 NEW-YOEK: 
 
 SAMUEL YOUNG, JTR, 
 352 Broadway. 
 
 1855. 
 

 ni^ 
 
 
 STEPHEN HALLE7, 
 
 BOOK AND JOB PRINTER, 
 
 laa Nassau Street, Hcw-^ork. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 The following Journal was communicated by letter 
 to the "Bae,atoga Eepublican," printed at Saratoga 
 Springs, N. Y., hy Mr. Thomas Gt. Young. Applica- 
 tions having been made for back numbers, which could 
 not be supplied, it has been deemed civil and polite to 
 re-issue it in its present form ; and, as in the first 
 instance, without any expectation of pecuniary profit. 
 
 As the Journal is written in a free and easy style, 
 errors of composition will be pretty sure to be discov- 
 ered ; and this defect is rendered the more probabk, 
 as the writer was unable to read and correct the proof 
 sheets. If these pages contain any errors of fact, they 
 have crept in unwittingly, for the author has endeav- 
 ored to tell the truth, although it sadly interferes 
 with the romantic notions many Americans imbibe from 
 highly colored books of travels m-ade to sell : and 
 whose learned features, exhibiting an intimate ac- 
 quaintance with ancient and modern history, have been 
 borrowed from " Murray's Hand Books for Travel- 
 lers." 
 
 Some speculative countryman may decide that, from 
 tho great scarcity of soap which the writer has noticed 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 as prevailing on the continent of Europe, a cargo of 
 that useful article shipped thither would produce good 
 returns ; but I hasten to inform him that the ladies of 
 France and Italy never wash their faces for fear of 
 spoiling their complexions ; and as to the men, their 
 faces are usually impervious to both soap and water 
 from the hairy nature of their aspects. 
 
 T. Q. 
 New YoeKj Februaryj 1855. 
 
 ^ 
 
FAMILIAR 
 
 As you, Mr. Editor, are as much of a fresh water- 
 sailor as'mj^self, I will give j^ou some of the particulars 
 of my vo^^age across the Atlantic. 
 
 Oct. 19^A, 1853. — Sailed in the Eoyal Mail Steamer 
 "Arabia" at 12 at noon, down into the ocean, which 
 was almost as quiet as the Hudson Eiver. Passed a 
 ship which had cleared the previous day for Liverpool. 
 Met the "Asia" and exchanged salutes with her. Sat 
 down to dinner but could not relish the food, although 
 it looked well and' was properly served. A sort of 
 smoke-pipe flavor to- every thing. Found that the 
 spare berth in my state room had been taken by an old 
 acquaintance, which was very agreeable. After tea the 
 passengers amuse themselves with backgammon, chess, 
 &c., or walk upon deck in the moonlight. 
 
 Oct. 22d.: — The weather still continues fine. There is 
 very little motion to the ship. I am not all right inside, 
 yet I am not sick. Still this is better than being tossed 
 about in j'our state room like a shot in a tobacco box; 
 or throwing up the seat of your trowsers, or a piece of 
 your liver as big as the side of a house. The people on 
 board are mostly Englishmen, and eat hugely. Break- 
 fast at half past eight, lunch at twelve, dinner at four, 
 tea at half-past seven, and supper any time before ten, 
 
 Oct. 23d. — Sunday. On banks of Newfoundland. 
 Heavy swell of the sea and my sickness now begins., 
 
 I* 
 
6" THE O C E A IT . 
 
 The ship rolls disgustingly. The Bishop of Madras 
 and an English Arch-Deacon are on board, but neither 
 can preach ; both sea-sick. The Captain reads the ser- 
 vice and a sermon to the passengers and the crew. This 
 Qaptain has the reputation of being as cross as a bear 
 with his legs covered with chesnut burs, but I have failed 
 to discover this peculiar trait in his character. 
 
 Oct. 2Uh. — Hazy and damp ; N. E. wind ; ship rolls 
 heavily. My sustenance yesterday was one cup of tea 
 and two bits of dry toast. To-day, a glass of ice M^ater 
 and a cracker. How disagreeable to see these Eno-lish 
 gormandising. One mite of comfort — ^yesterday we 
 made three hundred and eight mileSj and tcb.day three . 
 hundred and twelve. 
 
 Oct. 25th. — This heaving of the breast of one of the 
 sons of God still continues, andthe.ship rolls continually. 
 . "Wrapped in my overcoat and travelling shawl, I sit like 
 ''Patience on a monument" gr'irmmg ad nauseam. Here 
 in the middle of the ocean I saw to-day a bird cirpling 
 near the vessel and skimming the water \^ 
 
 " Lone, wandering, but not lost." 
 
 The sun shines forth and his cheerful beams penetrate 
 e,ven to my disturbed refectory. — Curse these passen- 
 gers ! how they eat ! — Some of them behave as if they 
 could devour all Turkey with as much ease as the great 
 bear of Russia will do unless prevented by Bull and 
 Qrapeau. 
 
 Oct. '21 til. — ^We have had a stiff north west wind and 
 corresponding waves. Have shipped one or two seas 
 over our upper deck aft; and the water has run down 
 among the state rooms. The Arabia pokes her nose 
 into the water and lifts up her tail. I was told she was 
 a wet ship, and now I believe it. Tried to eat. Nib- 
 bled at some broiled ham and dry toast. "We were good 
 friends for a time, Ham and I, and then we parted. 
 Waiter, take away that plate of butter ! I loathe the 
 sight of it. Like the sea ! No man can like the sea 
 unless his interior formation is like that of a porpoise or 
 eiiark. But there is a ray of gladness. To-morrow they 
 say we shall see land and next day be in Liverpool. 
 
LIVERPOOL. 7 
 
 ^iOct. 29th. — "We passed the hills which skirt the south- 
 ern extremity of Ireland yesterday afternoon ; and to-" 
 day we are running along the coast of Wales over a 
 tranquil sea. After a voyage of about ten days, which 
 has been to me most wearisome and sickening, we hail 
 the moment when our feet shall once more touch dty^- 
 land. An extensive lunch is prepared in the saloon, 
 and,charapagne furnished by the steward. The Captain 
 is complimented in a short speech by the Bishop of Ma- 
 dras, and returns thanks thereforv. The Arabia seems , 
 well commanded: The discipline appears good. The- 
 bells are struck, and the bostwain's whistle calls the men, 
 to. duty in man-of-war style. There is very little hallo-, 
 ing or bavN'ling'. The waiters are under perfect subjec-. 
 tion; and" a loud word is scarcely heard among them. 
 One defect I noticed in the steward's department; no. 
 napkins are furnished at table. There is also no barber 
 on board. Shaving I found difficult; the state-room 
 was not light enough ; and I was obliged to hold on by 
 one hand while I operated with the other. When the 
 ship rolled heavily, no man, who valued his nose, shaved. 
 
 My intention is. to return next spring.- or summer, in. 
 one of our noble ColHns' steamers. 
 
 Half-2oast one.—VTe are now anchored at the bar, 
 about twelve miles from, Liverpool A small steamer 
 comes after the mails, but we are obliged to remain until, 
 high water. Between four and five p. m. we got under 
 weigh again and pulled up about a mile from the town. 
 A custom house officer here came on board and I had 
 the first visual proof of what. a 'slow coach' England is in, 
 some respects. The baggage of part of the passengers 
 was examined and they got on shore in the small steam- 
 er at about seven o'clock. It was nearly nine before 
 the rest of us were finished. In , our country, in the 
 same space of time, the passengers would have been 
 " put through ;*'■ and some of them would have been eat- 
 ing pork-steaks in Cincinnati before we reached our 
 hotels in Liverpool. 
 
 livery country has it.sjear. I^^have now discovered) 
 
5 L r V E R r o o t . 
 
 what is England's bugbear. It is segars ! The unf-. 
 versril qaestion was — " Have you any segars or tobacca 
 among your luggage?" (There is no baggage here.) 
 I did not observe how the ladies were ofi' for plug or 
 pig-tail, but some of the gentlemen were obliged to pay" 
 a round duty for their portions of the weed. -I had 
 got nearly to tho "Waterloo Hotel, when an officer met 
 me and asked me if I had o.nj segars. 
 
 Those who have seen Montreal have an inkling of 
 Liverpool. The streets here are wider, and many of the 
 buildings more capacious and massive; and the town 
 has the best iDavement I have ever yet seen. The> 
 sidewalks in particular are perfectly even ; and where 
 streets intersect each other you are obliged to step 
 down but an inch or two, instead of a foot, as on the- 
 New York sidewalks, thus getting rid of a jap; 
 
 Having relished nothing on- my vpj^age but hard' 
 crackers and ice water, and taken but little sustenanc 
 altogether, I ordered a mutton chop, «Scc., on arriving 
 at the hotel, having first secured a room of the young 
 and plump female book-keeper. All the clerks are- 
 females. These English hotels, as you may be aware, 
 have no public tables. You enter the coffee room- 
 around which are ranged several tables, at one of which 
 you seat yourself Before you is a clean cloth; and' 
 the utensils are kept in the neatest possible orden 
 Whatever you call for — no- matter at what hour — is 
 brought on, done to a turn, and is excellent in quality. 
 Let your lady readers understand that the plate of 
 muffins is brought to you seated on a bowl of steaming- 
 hot water and thus left to remain. Out of handsome 
 silver or plated tea-pots, cream-jugs and sugar-^bowls, 
 you make your own tea. I observed that in the 
 sinoking room similar plate was used by the gentlemen 
 who took toddy. Their hquor was brought in a glass, 
 and with it a tea-spoon, a mug of hot water and a 
 sugar bowl. They do not here, as with us, rush up to- 
 the bar at the word of command, drink hke thunder 
 qjid. vanish like lightning ; but they take off their hats. 
 
LIVEEFOOL. 
 
 and sit down leisurely at little marble tables and talk 
 and sip, and sip and talk. John Bull takes his comfort 
 in his own way and will not be hurried. He has no 
 steam engme of forty horse power under his coat tails 
 as Brother Jonathan has. 
 
 ' Oct 3 Isf.— Liverpool is not celebrated for sights. 
 The Exchange is a handsome edifice ; and in the centre 
 of the excellently well paved court behind it, stands a 
 eroup of bronze statuary. The. figures around the 
 base are larger than hfe, and represent chained slaves 
 in various attitudes of despair. Whether they are 
 miners or coUiers, or factory hands on short pay, i 
 cannot determine. Ou the summi* is a man with o, 
 weapon, going to do. something; beside him as a 
 wonian— Mrs. Brittania perhaps— doing something; 
 Around the whole mass are these words, "England 
 expects every man to do his duty." 
 ^ Liverpool has not much to interest a stranger, i he- 
 docks, which extend- &33 five- or,- six miles up the river, 
 are massive structures, and will last for centuries. 
 
 I leave for London to-day, from which' ^i/to^e my 
 next letter will be written. - 
 
 I requested the fair book-keeper to put m my 
 bill a proper fee- for the- servants, as I did not wislx 
 to be- annoyed with <•' Please remember the boots,^^ 
 " please-remember the chambermaid, sir," the "porter, 
 the " waiter," and so on. I was charged three shillings,, 
 (sixty-six cents) which was less. than. I expected. _ 
 
 Thei^ailway station, at^ Liverpool is quite- an imposing; 
 building. The cars *- are shaped like our old fashioned* 
 stao-e coaches, and contain six seats, three at each end, 
 facmg each other. The seats and backs are cushioned 
 luxuriously, and are very wide and roomy, else they 
 would not fit some of these broad4)eamed Enghshmen. 
 Your arms have each a well stuffed, wide morocco, 
 cashion to rest upon. Lamps are kept contmua%- 
 lighted in the cars to. make it more pleasant whiie^ 
 
 * The English call them carriageg.. 
 
10 L o KD o rc. 
 
 passing through tunnels. No checks are given for thS 
 luggage; you are asked your destination, and your 
 efiects are placed upon the toji of the car, which haa 
 an iron railing around it. The fare to London, two 
 hundred and ten miles, was £1,17,0. The speed of the 
 cars is regulated by law. We did not travel fast, being 
 from half-past nine a. m. to five p.. m., in reaching London. 
 Prom Liverpool, for about fifty or sixty miles, the 
 raihvay is inferior to our best roads ; but the remainder 
 of the distance is rmexceptionable. There was no crowd 
 about the different stations, and not so many passengers 
 as there would have been in an American train running 
 between large towns. We were asked to shew our 
 tickets only once during the whole distance. 
 
 As I expected, I found the country in the highest 
 state of cultivation. It was generally level ; and though 
 there were a few board fences to be seen, the hedge 
 prevailed and added largely to the rural appearance of 
 the scene. Along the hedges were in many places 
 rows of trees. The fields themselves seemed as well 
 tended as lawns, and resembled them. Great num- 
 bers of sheep were to be seen ; and they, as well as 
 the horses and cattle, appeai'ed of the true blood. The 
 farm houses were plain, low structures, but looked neat 
 and tidy. 
 
 On a romantic round hill to our right, nearly half- 
 way to London, I saw an old castle. 
 
 Before leaving America I had been told that the 
 schoolmaster was abroad. I think there were evidences 
 of him at Warrington ; and I also believe that he is of 
 Irish extraction. A sign there, over a shop door, reads 
 thus — "Open Always. Sundays Excepted." 
 
 On arriving at the metropolis we took a cab and 
 drove to the Trafalgar House, Charing Ci'oss. It is a 
 very plain hotel, inside and out, but truly English — - 
 cgrnfortahle. It is near Trafalgar Square, whore stands 
 Nelson's monument ; and not far from the celebrated 
 hotel, Morley's, where many Americans stop and pay 
 six or eight dollars a day. It costs between three and 
 
London* 11 
 
 five dollars a day (wine not included) at the plainef 
 English hotels. 
 
 The first thing that struck me on entering London, 
 was the massive appearance of the buildings. Many 
 of them are quite high, and all of them are built to 
 endure. I saw only one building in process of erection 
 or alteration in Liverpool, and I have as yet seen none 
 in London. They do not change the fashion of their 
 houses as we do in N«w York, altering them from brick 
 to stone, from stone to marble or iron-. 
 
 As I had been so fortunate as to stumble on an old 
 friend in Liverpool, who has visited Europe before, and 
 who joins forces with me until we reach Paris, I induced 
 him to go with me to the Haymarket Theatre, which 
 was near our hotel. It is well enough in its way, and 
 is about the size of Wallack's Theatre, New York, 
 though by no means so brilliantly lighted. George 
 Vandenhoff was there doi7ig Hamlet — and he did it. 
 There was not a full house. It requires his sire, the 
 ** elder Vandenhoff," to fill the part of Hamlet. 
 
 Nov. \st. — x^fter a sound night's sleep in a clean bed, 
 I awake in London. I cannot realize it, for it seems a 
 dream. The fact will doubtless become transparent 
 when my bill is handed in. 
 
 The day is like our Indian summer, warm and hazy» 
 "We took a stroll into St. James' Park. A detachment 
 of the Horse Guards, mounted all on black Normandy 
 horses, was passing through. They do not look any 
 more formidable than a corps of cavalry, composed of 
 butchers or cartmen, which you see in New York 
 mounted on white or grey horses. Give those men 
 the same officers and drilling, and upon them would I 
 stake ray money. A military band was playing in fine 
 style in the Park, and a good many pedestrians were 
 to be seen. Several cows were tied to the railings, 
 and on tables near them were cups of fresh w^arm milk 
 advertised for sale. It is supposed here to be a good 
 drink for consumptives. 
 
 St. James' Park is, perhaps, twice as large as our 
 
m L O N J) O N . 
 
 "Washington Square in New York. * It contains a 
 pond with a pretty little isiaad in its centre. A great 
 -variety of aquatic birds were swimming about, among 
 them black and white Swans, which came to the shore 
 'often to be fed by the children. Rare shrubbery and 
 flowers are to be seen in the Park. 
 
 St. James' Palace is close by the railing. It is an 
 'extensive but not a high building, of brick, and in an 
 old style of architecture. It is only inhabited by a few 
 jroyal paupers, except when the Queen holds her draw- 
 ing rooms and receptions there. When, in toMm, she 
 resides in Buckingham Palace, which fronts the Park 
 'lower down. This last palace is of stone, painted ' 
 yellow, and is taller and more extensive than St. James'. 
 It is not showy, but looks as if it might be a college, or 
 an asylum for the deaf and dumb, which palaces some- 
 times are when the people are suflferiiig. Before the 
 gates of the two palaces sentinels are continually 
 marching. The Queen is now at Windsor Castle. 
 
 Fronting the park is the princely residence of the 
 Duchess of Sutherland ; the lady who is in treaty to 
 Ipurchase the black'^population of the Southern Stateet 
 In style and splendor, they say, she eclipses royalty. 
 
 The "Horse Guards" is also on the Park, besides 
 ■other celebrated buildings. 
 
 The streets of London, as far as I have y6t observed, 
 •'are well paved and kept clean. The people, to my 
 surprise, walk quite as fast as the Americans, who 
 have been laughed at so much by travelers for their 
 haste. The English grufifness, often spoken of, I have 
 Hot as yet met with. The people appear civil and 
 polite. The police are seen in all directions, dressed 
 in their neat uniforms, with coats buttoned up to the 
 chin by metal buttons, and white gloves upon their 
 hands. They are extremely obhging, ' and will go out 
 X)f their way to direct strangers to the places they seek. 
 'The vehicles are different from ours, if I except the 
 
 "* A correction of this estimate will be found hereafter. 
 
LONDON. 13 
 
 cab, or "car," as it is called in Liverpool The omni- 
 buses are not so large, and there is no check string 
 inside. The collector stands outside upon a little shelf 
 beside the door, and takes the faro as you alight. 
 There is a sort oF miniature cab frequently seen, capable 
 of containing two persons. The driver sits on an 
 elevated seat behind. The vehicle looks elastic ; and 
 the passengers would, in case of the harness failing, be 
 apt to turn, what is called in circusses, a " back sum- 
 ttie?set." Large cars to which are attached two or 
 three huge horses, tandem style, are used for the 
 transport of merchandize through the town. The cab 
 and omnibus horses, generally, are not much more 
 good looking than ours. 
 
 The Strand is a crowded thoroughfare, and is con- 
 tinued by Fleet Street, Ludgate Hill, &c. It is not 
 teo difficult to cross as parts of Broadway, but agility 
 is necessary. The shop windows, lighted up brilliantly 
 at night by gas lights outside, protected by large tin 
 reflectors, are usually riot so high and showy as ours, 
 but much wider. 
 
 In the Strand stands Temple Bar, an old gate once 
 forming part of the ancient wall of the city. It has 
 been customary, on an accessiori.to the throne, for the 
 monarch to ride to Temple Bar and ask formal 
 permission of the Lord Mayor to enter the city. It 
 is not probable that any Mayor would venture to 
 answer the sovereign in the words of the negro melody t 
 
 '■ Tou ain't good look'nor. 
 And you can' t come in." 
 
 Ludgate Hill is not a hill, but a slight elevation.-*- 
 Beyond it stands the renowned St. Paul's, browned by 
 time, except in spots where its white stone is visible, 
 it is a huge edifice but did not come up to my idea. 
 Sir C. "Wren has built himself a large nest. Service 
 was performing iri the chapel when I went in. The 
 music was good. I looked up into the large dome ot 
 the church, but did not ascend to it, and of course nofe 
 to the "ball" far above it-. 
 
 2 
 
14 LONDON. 
 
 Farther on is tho Lord Mayor's residence, which is 
 capacious and stately, with cohimns in front. Near it 
 is tho Exchange, part of which was erected in the timo 
 of Elizabeth. Over the entrance arc these words — • ' 
 *'Thc earth is the Lord's and tho fullness thereof." 
 
 Near the Exchang-e is the Bank of England, a low 
 structure, but covering a great deal of ground. Thero 
 are many rooms filled with clerks, old and young, 
 working by a dingy light and wearing out their *ye3. 
 I did not attempt any "run xipon the Bank " I do 
 not know how many hmidred people are employed in 
 this buil'ling, but thei'c arc several. A bank note has 
 to pass through two or three hands before you get the 
 cash for it. It is never re-issued, but cancelled on tho 
 epot. This would not agree with the small note issue 
 of our banks; the paying and cancelling would require 
 steam power. 
 
 Still onward and you reach the celebrated prison-* 
 palace, tho Tower of London, by tho side of the 
 Thames. It is composed of several buildings, resembling 
 fortresses, collected in and around a hollow square. 
 Part of the buildings were consumed by lire and havo 
 been re-built. Sentinels were posted around, and a 
 company of soldiers were being drilled in the court 
 yard. Our guide, dressed in a sort of crimson blouse, 
 with ono crown worked on his back and another on 
 bis breast, first led us into the grand armory. Hero 
 we saw many figures of old Kings and warriors on 
 horseback, horse and man clothed in the identical 
 armor worn by their living originals. There was also 
 a great collection of arms of" all ages, and trophies 
 captured from enemies. The revolving pistol, with 
 several barrels, revolving guns, &c., were to be seen. 
 This pistol I had supposed a modern invention. In 
 the court-yard were cannon of all kinds, some with 
 several barrel's and revolving, and some as long as tho 
 mast of a North Eiver sloop. We were shown tho 
 coat in which AVolfo fell at Quebec; a block on which 
 eeveral noblemen had been beheaded — the marks of 
 
LONDON. 15 
 
 tHe axe still visible; and in the White Tower I entered, 
 with others, and stood in the narrow cell where no 
 sunlight can ever penetrate, in which Sir Walter 
 Raleigh was confined, and in which he wrote his- 
 history of the v^"orld. Thumb screws and otherinstru'-- 
 ments of torture were shewn to us. We entered the^ 
 tower in which Lady Jane Grey was- held a prisoner, 
 and on the walls of v\diich she has carved her name- 
 thus — lANE. The walls were ornamented' by the- 
 car\angs of' other prisoners, who thus beguiTed' the- 
 wcary time. In the court-3^ard I stood upon the very 
 spot Vv'here Lady Jane was executed. She is buried^ 
 in the old church close at hand. In passing, on we 
 ^w^ere shewn the tower and room in which the young- 
 princes were murdered by their affectionate relative,. 
 Richard the Third. 
 
 We took a small steamer at London Bridge — the old' 
 London Bridge is gone— a sort of omnibus steamer, 
 many of which are seen upon the Eiver Thames, and- 
 whichare exceedingly well managed', and' passed' up the- 
 classic stream. We saw several of the bridges, but none 
 of them astonished' me, as I had seen the Croton Aque- 
 duct. We saw also on the banlts of the river, one of 
 the old palaces, Somerset House. The Eiver Thames 
 is not liere a large stream. It might fill the eye of the.- 
 poet who wrote the verses commencing — 
 
 " Ffom rise of mom till set of sun, 
 I've suc:i the mighty Mwhawk ran !-' ' 
 
 Nov. 2d. — My stay in London being very brlef^ I had' 
 determined to see only a few of the sights at this time, 
 but certainly Westminster Abbey, where lie- buried the 
 great and,, famous of England. But my companion, 
 wished to go to-.France; and as England is handsomest 
 in May and June, I hope to be here about that period! 
 The sights of London are not to be seen in -months. 
 There are, of course, many objects that a stranger can 
 well pass, but much worthy of attention in a city of 
 nearly three millions of people. To the rural districts 
 of England and Scotland I very much desire to go, but 
 this- is not the proper season.. 
 
IS LONDON. 
 
 To-morrow morning we take the cara for Folkst&noy 
 eighty-two miles distant, Avhere we intend to cross th& 
 channel to Boulogne, and so to Paris. But we first wish 
 to go to Dover, a few miles from Folkestone, and see 
 Shakspeare's cliif. We shall probably remain a day in 
 Boulogne. Here we are almost at home ; there we shall 
 be in a foreign land. As the communication between 
 France and America is not so frequent as between ua 
 and England, you may not receive my ofF-hand Journal 
 regularly. It may also miscarry at times, and as I do 
 not deem it worthy of copying, there may be a break in 
 ^y story. In that case, I presume yourself and readers 
 will manage to do without it. 
 
 Ncv. 2>cL — We left London in one of the fogs for 
 which she is celebrated. On crossing London Bridge 
 and arriving at the station, — a fine building with aglass-- 
 covered roof, — we were first obliged to purchase tickets 
 before our luggage could be placed on the cars. To 
 ehow that these countries are brought now very near 
 together, we observed railway advertisements posted 
 around, si gnifjing that you could go from London to Pa- 
 ris in twelve hours ; from London to Switzerlandintwen* 
 ty-six hours, &c. 
 
 A carpetbag, or even a newspaper placed upon a 
 seat, secures it for you. We had an, entire car^ of six 
 Beats, to ourselves. A tall gentleman did get in, and 
 with his long legs interfered with mine; but one of tho 
 "servants of thecompaay"' (to whom you are requested 
 to give no fee) seeing it,, gaye the- gentleman, a seat in 
 another car, which hcj liked, bette'*, and told us that he 
 thought we wOiuM like, to have a car to ourselves. Be- 
 fore I could- speak, he remarked, " I will be back pres- 
 ently," which, of course, we understood perfectly ; and 
 when he did comeback, pretending to look for more of 
 "thegentleman's luggage under the seat, a hand dropped, 
 his fell to meet it, they touched, he said "-Thank you;'*" 
 locked,, us in, and retired. The fee was not much, yet 
 we -had the car .to ourselves all the way, there being, of 
 ^ course, , no crovvd' of passengers., We left at Lalf-paal 
 
P O L K E S T O N E . tlT 
 
 eleven o'clock and reached Folkestone at ten minutes^ 
 past two, the distance about eighty-two miles. Wq- 
 went to a fine, large hotel, not gaudy, but all right; and 
 my window, before which I now write, looks down upon 
 the cllannel which wo must cross to reach; France. 
 
 The country between London and Folkestone- is very- 
 like that between Liverpool and London, though in ad- 
 dition to the number of sheep visible in the fields, we 
 observed a good many hop plantations. From the mul- 
 titude of ale and beer signs in London, I thought that 
 hops must necessarily grow somewhere. Some of the 
 English farms appear a little too artificial. Under the 
 clumps of trees, for instance, planted or left standing, 
 you do not see the red, yellow and green leaves, as in 
 our Avoods. There is a little excess of art and not quite 
 enough of Nature. I have seen farms in America, that 
 if thev had but the hedge fence, I should prefer to these. 
 Our farm houses are prettier, but these are more dura- 
 ble, being of brick or stone, with venerable moss cover- 
 ed roofs. 
 
 The highways which I- saw are much more narrow 
 between the fences than with us, the land being in more 
 request ; but their roads look in excellent order. 
 
 We passed several parks of the -'nobility and gentry," 
 which looked inviting to the eye of' the head, but the 
 picture formed in the mind's eye of one democratically 
 inclined, shewed that park cut up into farms, and ma* 
 king twenty families comfortable, instead of only one. • 
 
 The Pavilion Hotel at Folkestone is built of brick, 
 and is very extensive, with capacious grounds attached. 
 A town of eight thousand inhabitants could not support 
 Buch an estabhshment, without the aid of the traveling 
 public, and those who go to the sea-side in warm weath- 
 er. The house is quite full at this late season. Lord 
 Norbuv}^, or some other lord, is hero- for -"change of air;" 
 and doubtless a number of English snobs have come 
 down, so as to have the honor of being under the same 
 roof with his lordship. This hotel has a public table at 
 llAlf-past two, and again at half-past six. Those wh6 
 
 8* 
 
18 P O L K EST ON E. 
 
 E refer can take tlieir meals in the coffee room at any' 
 our. My companion and myself decidedly prefer this 
 last method. In the Coffee Eoom I saw hanging upon 
 the wall a large engraving of the Metropolitan Hotel, 
 New York. 
 
 Some of the streets of Folkestone are very oM and^ 
 narrow, with many antique little buildings. Wi'ere they 
 in our country, they would soon be demolished to make, 
 room for larger edifices ; or bacause they had too an- 
 cient an appearance. If the Coliseum of Rome could 
 be transported to the city of New York, if not at once 
 razed to the ground, it would be altered and improved 
 fei some way ; painted white, perhaps, and green blinds 
 ^,ung upon it. 
 
 To the west of the main town of Folkestone is. a. 
 high and extensive bluff, along the edge of which is a 
 delightful walk extending for miles and. overlooking the 
 channel. This is the favorite promenade. Upon this 
 elevated ground are built the best residences, which, 
 like those in Regent Street, Portland Place, Regents 
 Park, and in other parts of the West End of Londouj. 
 are large and sobstantiiil, without much pretension to 
 outward show, I have seen no handsomer dwellings, 
 in England, exteriorly, than those in and about the. 
 Fifth Avenue, New- York. As to inside conveniences 
 and comfort, I presume the English are quite up to, 
 our West End snobs. 
 
 Nov. Ath — We left our hotel where gents, are re- 
 quested not to keep a newspaper over half an hour, 
 and where they are required to appear at the six o'clock 
 table with black coats — ladies to come without their 
 bonnets — and where dogs are not admitted to the din- 
 ing rooms, (dogs, and sad ones, too, do get in some- 
 times,) and started for Dover in=a small omnibus drawn, 
 by one slow horse over a good MjcAdamized road, six 
 and a half miles, in one a;id a half hours. The road 
 was cut out of the cliff, along the edge of which it raa 
 all the way. 
 
 " Bnt.tania ne«cTs no bulwarkp, 
 Ko towers along the stedp I " 
 
D & V EK . 10 
 
 Yet, on leaving Folkestone, .we had a good view of 
 three towers on as raany hills overlooking the water ; 
 and lower down the channel, under Folkestone clifi", is 
 a venerable old fort. 
 
 We saw some handsome farms on the waj'". Ivy 
 creeping up the sides of the buildings, and the roofs, 
 covered with moss. So precise are the English farm- 
 ers, that the manure in the fields is made up into con* 
 ical heaps and disposed in rows perfectly straight. 
 
 On the way I began to rub up my French, for to- 
 morrow we propose to cross the channel. I can put 
 together but two sentences — Avez vous mon couteaUy 
 wtiich is, Have you got my knife ? Now if I go about 
 asking tliis q^uestion, I shall be apprehended for a cut- 
 throat. Then I have learned a sentence from a shop, 
 window in Broadway — Au prix fixe — one price fixed.. 
 If I go into one of the Parisian shops for a pair of 
 gloves, how am I to ask the price of the female clerk,, 
 or give the correct pronunciation? I fear things will 
 be brought to. a stand ; I shall not be able ta get on at 
 all. But it^niporte ; other ignoramuses have been 
 before me. 
 
 Dover is situated in a valley between two high hills, and 
 looks out upon the water. It has twenty-two thousand 
 i.n.hahitants,. and some handsome dwellings and neat, 
 ^ops. We ascended one of the hills, in which are cut 
 deep and winding passages in case of attack, to the 
 castle fort, four hundred feet above the sea. This is 
 the first castle I ever entered. It was built by the- 
 Normans seven hundred years ago. The corners of 
 the buildings are much worn off by time. The walls 
 are twenty-four feet thick, with narrow slits in them, 
 from which the archers shot their arrows. We saw a 
 large stairway where Kings had met and parted; a, 
 cell in which Pi'ince Arthur was confined ; the banquet 
 hall of the old Vv'arriors where-they used to eat a rOund. 
 of beef apiece and drink a cask of wine or ale. This^ 
 hall is not very large, but very rough ; and would riot, 
 eujit even Sweeny in New York. "The guide, took us. 
 
2Q D O V E R ►, 
 
 itito a dark apartment where was the well which Har* 
 old promised to make over with the castle to William, 
 the IS^ormun. It is three hundred and fifty feet deep,, 
 and the guide threw down stones that we might hear 
 them till they reached. the bottom, which is dry. In 
 the- armory I saw a short arquebuss or musket, or, 
 whatever it may be, about two feet long, and with.Kcvea 
 barrels, which all go ofi' at once. "We were shown an 
 ancient clock, five hundred years old, or thereabouts, 
 as big as a fanning mill. Upon the walls of one of the 
 rooms v>''as paint which had stood six hundred jears. . 
 The underground works had been shut np by order of 
 the commanding officer, and were not again to be open 
 to visitors. In the court yard of the castlp is a tower, 
 now used as a gate, fifteen hundred years, old^ and 
 built by the Saxons. It has no roof and is myeh^dilap- . 
 idated. 
 
 Near at hand was an object of still deeper interest... 
 It was composed of two towers, connected by a lower- 
 building, with all the corners so decaj'cd and broken, 
 that whether, the towers were original)}^ round or 
 square, I could not determine. This Avas supposed to . 
 be aj'Via^'os, or lighthoase, and was buiit by the lio- 
 mans in the year forty-three, being therefore eighteen; 
 hundred years old. . 
 
 We descended the hill and walked, about a mile to 
 Shakspeare's clifif. It presents its chalky precipice four 
 hundred and fifty feet high to the sea. Through its 
 body runs the railway ; and ventilators to this tunnel: 
 are seen upon the top of the clifi". When we had 
 nearly reached the summit, we found a strong built, 
 jolly old chap, who had dug out a cave in the clifif, into 
 which he invited us, for the purpose of selling us fos- 
 sils and minerals. I purcliased a piece of the chalky 
 clifi" itself, upon,which adhered a small sliell, which the' 
 old man called " a Jiammonitc.'^'' He had been a pilot, 
 he told us, but was now obliged to sell " fossles." If 
 he was in America he would do well, as a man's servi- 
 ces are " thought on there." He said that if we went 
 

DOVER. 21- 
 
 to the top of the cliffy we could see three Kingdoms ; 
 *' the Kingdom, of Hingland, of France and 'Eaven." 
 It was foggy, and we saw only England. A coast 
 guard was walking on the summit with his spy-glass 
 under his arm and a signal station near him. The 
 bulky old pilot cam^e after us to give us all the infor- 
 mation in his power. " 'Ere," said he, " is the werry 
 spot where King Lear came to throw himself off, but 
 William Shakspeare perwented him." My friend, a 
 gentleman from Islip, Long Island, went ofl" down the 
 hill enjoying this joke ; but as for myself, I thought 
 the old fellow was quizzing us, but on looking at his 
 face it appeared entirely too honest and kind for that. 
 Some wag has made him up a story, and he only 
 repeats it, Dickens should see this man. He is hoping 
 for a " good old French war," so that he may become 
 pilot to a battle ship. 
 
 Last year a soldier from the oastle threw himself 
 from the cliff, because his wife would not purchase hia 
 discharge. He had only si's months to serve. The- 
 old pilot went down and assisted to take up the man- 
 gled body. 
 
 The acting play of King Lear makes Edgar des- 
 cribe this cliff as greatly exceeding four hundred an(i 
 fifty feet in height, but Edgar seems to be only striving 
 to impress it upon the blind old nobleman^ (his father, 
 I think) who, wishes to cast himself from it in hia 
 despair.. 
 
 " Hnlf way down hangs one^that gathers samphire ; 
 Horrid trade ! " 
 
 That wi'R da well enough, for it would not be pleasant 
 to be suspended two hundred feet in air. But as to a 
 ship's being -'dwindled to her cock," and her cock a 
 buoy, " almost too small for sight," that never could 
 haye been in Shakspeare's time, unless cliffs wear away 
 in England faster than in i\nj other part of the world. 
 "We dined at the Lord Warden's Hotel in Dover. 
 This is the largest and finest hotel I have yet seen in 
 England. It was built .by, and is kept for the railway 
 
2!^ D OVE R\. 
 
 company .and has only been open five Aveeks. The- 
 waiters, as at other English hotels, wore black dress 
 coats and pants, and whii'-e cravats. 
 
 I have now tried three of the English fish, fried soles, 
 turbot and whiting.. The first is very fair ; the second 
 tastes slightly like the cod ; and the last is the best. 
 We have many fish quite as good. The white bait is 
 not in season here, but I doubt if all England can pro- 
 duce a fish equal to our North Eiver or Connecticut 
 shad. 
 
 At half past five vrc returned to Folkestone by rail-- 
 way. 
 
 Nov. 5ih. — In walking up and down last night in 
 front of our hotel, I saw a light in the sky, which, at 
 the time, struck me as curious. It might have been an 
 angel's daughter looking out of a windov/ with a cam- 
 phene lamp in lier hand ; but it was only the lighthouso 
 on the cliff. But how important to the mariner ; for 
 close to our door lies the wreck of a stranded vessel.. 
 A strong wind comes down from the German Ocean, 
 and the ever restless sea is sweeping upon the beach... 
 We expect to cross the channel at noon. 
 
 While settling my bill (which was reasonable for an 
 English one) at eleven o'clock, his lordship sent down 
 to the ofllce for a fresh egg. The clerk remarked that 
 t.he eggs were fresh ; to which fact I could testify. 
 "Xhe w'aiter said that hjs lordship denied it, and wished 
 them to send out at once for a new laid egg, as he was . 
 waiting breakfast.. A_ small boy was despatched' to 
 chase a hen until she would consent to stand and, 
 deliver., 
 
 Nov-.^QiUb. — We got on board our little steamer,., 
 \vithjits. open deck, at one o'clock p. ri.^ There were 
 some forty passengers, several of whom had gouo 
 b.elovv^ and were reclining, in the expectation of being 
 sick. When the' sea is rough, there is a peculiar crosa 
 Bwelkin the channel, which sometimes makes the oldest 
 sailors ill. The steward brought up several wash-bowls 
 upon dock, but, as the sea.was not at all rough, he had. 
 
fe u L a N fi . ^^■ 
 
 little use for them. Two or three ladies, in a bad way, 
 were assisted down the cabin stairs, but none others 
 were troubled. Half way across we suw a small boat ; 
 and supposing that it might contain the survivors 6f 
 some wreck, oar Captain checked the steam-cr and tho 
 crew seized their boat hooks. But the boat was empty 
 and we passed on, doing the distance to Bolougne in 
 two and a half hours— twenty-seven mile&. 
 
 Quite a crov,^d had collected on the dock to see us 
 come in, but they were formed into a lane by the sol- 
 diers, or police, s"ome ih cocked hats, so that we coul-d 
 pass through. A good many carriages stood about, 
 but not a word was spaken. V/e were admitted 
 ■ 'tone by one to the passport office, where our passports 
 were stamped and signed, and handed back to us free 
 of charge. I had given my keys to the "commission- 
 er" attached to the British Hotel, but told him thete 
 was a Yankee lock upon my trunk which he could not 
 t)pen. He said he could open all sorts of locks ; but 
 ■he failed to find the secret spring in mine. Leaving 
 our luggage in the hands of the niihtary custom-house 
 officers, vvc were passed singly into the street. My 
 friend was let out at once, but I was detained. Three 
 soldiers seized my travelling shawl, opened it, and felt 
 its texture carefully, then giving it back into my hands. 
 I was then taken into another room, and one of the war- 
 I'iors thrust his hand into my overcoat pocket, taking 
 out a box of matches. This had an incendiary look ; 
 so he thrust his hand into my other pocket and exam- 
 ined my handkerchief. He then felt tho pockets of 
 my undercoat. I threw open both coats and he rub- 
 bed me dow-n, back, breast and legs. I was then suf- 
 ■.fered to depart. A few fi^ncs would have been accept- 
 ed, I suppose, and this search not made; but I enjoyed 
 the joke. 
 
 We were told at the hotel that they had a tahle 
 dliotc at quarter to six. When tho hour arrived, there 
 was the Captain, an English gentleman and lady, my 
 X5ompanion and myself; a. small public table. The 
 
54 BOULOGNE; 
 
 dinner, though in France, was English and good. Th$ 
 English, you know, claim to have the best beef and 
 mutton in the world. Their beef appears always to 
 be good ; but I have eaten as good in America. Their 
 mutton is of a more delicate flavor than ours, tender 
 and digestible. 
 
 In the evening we went to the Theatre to see "Era 
 Diavolo," but there was another piece to be played 
 i first; and as I could not understand the language, and 
 was loaded down with dinner, I fell asleep in a front 
 seat of the dress circle. (The Theatre is not a very 
 large one, but contains four tiers of boxes.) My Com- 
 panion wandered about the house, and when I awoke 
 he told me that he had been much annoyed, as every- 
 body had been looking at me as I sat nodding to the 
 audience. "A soft answer turneth away wrath," and 
 I gave him one. I told him that I had paid for my 
 seat and had a right to sleep; that I did not care 
 whether all Boulogae or the entire French nation were 
 looking at me; and that he might go to Calais, to 
 Paris or to — the Equator, whenever he pleased. 
 
 This is Sunday and pur good humor has returned. 
 Many of the shops are open, and peasant women are 
 Walking through the streets by the side of little asses 
 with baskets and tin jars upon them-. The women here 
 are handsomer than the English, having more delicate 
 features and less of the roast beef countenance. Saw 
 oS" an Englishwoman's head and feet, and the body 
 meets ni}' views. There are about thirty-five thousand 
 inhabitants in Boulogne, a good proportion of which 
 are English; for here they can live at a much less cost 
 than in what Byron calls " dear England." The English 
 have three churches here. JThe town itself is not unlike 
 nn English one in appearance, many of the houses being 
 plastered with^ stucco and painted a light yellow or 
 cream color. The signs are all in French, and look 
 Very curious to me. The side\valks of one or two of 
 the fashionable streets — very narrow they are — are 
 composed of black and white marble cut into diamonds, 
 
BO U L O G K E . 25 
 
 ■Bucli as you see in some of the halls of our New York 
 •hotels. The oldest part of the town is on a hill. Hero 
 we found several ancient gateways and portions of tha 
 old wall; also one or two venerable churches. We 
 walked out a mile or two on the McAdamized C;ilai3 
 Toad, passing some old windmills — which give such 
 effect to an English landscape — until we reached tho 
 column erected by Louis Phillippe in commemoration of 
 the "grau.de armee" assembled here by Napoleon in 
 1804 for the purpose of invading England, The shaft 
 is round, and Bony is on the top, with his right leg first, 
 as usual. We did not ascend to the summit; as for 
 my part, I have no taste for such tread mill business. 
 Near the column was a small yellow tiled shop of 
 •refreshments, which we entered, and got some bread 
 and butter, sweet, and of the true home-made flavor. 
 The Frenchman showed my companion the field whero 
 the wheat was raised, and thj old windmill where it 
 was ground. 
 
 To-morrow morning, at half-past eight, we mean to 
 take the diligence to Calais, twenty-four miles It is 
 Hot on our route to Paris, but there is a railway run- 
 ning from thence to Paris, as well as from Boulogne; 
 and the place is full of historical interest. 
 
 Nov. 1th. — We took places in the diligence., sending 
 our luggage and six francs to secure the seats, to tho 
 office, and waited for the vehicle to call for us at half- 
 past eight a. m. An ICnglishman had the other sparo 
 place, the coupe., or "first circle," holding but three. 
 The coach is divided into two rooms, with a place 
 for passengers upon top. We had the front room, 
 surrounded by glass windows. Three horses abreast 
 drew us, and we got on very well over the McAdam- 
 ized road. A dense fog prevailed, and we could see but 
 little of the country. The land is not divided by fen- 
 ces, but has, of course, some landmarks. The custom is 
 to tether the cattle so that they do not encroach on other 
 fields. The country does not appear thickly populated; 
 but we passed a chateau ot two, and as many villages^ 
 
 3 
 
26 CALAIS. 
 
 with their little low yellow houses with tiled roofs. — = 
 Whenever the diligence stopped, a beggar was sure to 
 come to the door. Between twelve and one we entered 
 the walls of Calais, through one of the ponderous gate-' 
 ways, and were shewn to the Hot.cl du Commerce. — ' 
 Our luggage was sent after us by the clerk at the dili- 
 gence office. The commissioner of the hotel took us 
 about in a fog, but we could not see at a distance, and 
 his English was quite defective. In fact, there are but 
 few sights at Calais. The town is celebrated in the 
 French and English wars. It is not unlike Boulogne 
 in appearance, and that is not so very different from 
 the older portions of English cities. Many of the 
 streets are quite narrow. The people walk more in 
 the middle of the streets than at Boulogne ; as in some 
 quarters the sidewalks are narrow, and in others there 
 are none at all. We went to the walls, but could get 
 no prospect. The fortifications arc very strong. The 
 light-house (the French have the best in the world) 
 was handsome enough for a monument ; the floor of 
 the lower room was paved with marble. A venerable 
 cathedral attracted our attention. A fine looking man, 
 with a uniform like that of an undress officer, came 
 from across the street with the key, and did not refuse 
 a small fee on our departure. There are no pews or 
 benches in the cathedral, and the floor is paved with 
 diamond-shaped black and white marble blocks. Can- 
 dles were burning, and are always kept so. We went 
 to the museum, which is a small concern, but contains 
 one or two good paintings. The town hall, as we would 
 call it, is a very old building. On the square by which 
 it stands, we were shewn ti house which one of the 
 starving inhabitants, during an English siege, gave for 
 a cat. Another was exchanged for a hare, and another 
 for two bottles of wine. 
 
 We leave in the morning by railway for Paris. 
 
 Nov. 8th — At the dinner table at Boulogne I amus- 
 ed them by translating gei^armes into '•'■Johns arms^'* 
 but my companion rather excelled mo at Calais. The 
 
CALAIS. 27 
 
 French make the best bread in the world, but they b^dco! 
 their loaves as large as a gate post. These loaves are 
 cut up into masses of about two feet in length, and dis- 
 tributed around the table. Each guest cuts bread for 
 himself; and my friend from Islip, seizing one of these 
 ponderous loaves, asked for ^ pcii-knifc. Couteau was 
 the word for knife, but he made an addition to it, and 
 even the polite Frenchmen could not restrain a laugh, 
 though they soon turned it off with pleasantry. It was 
 a picture for Punch; such a loaf of bread to be cut with 
 a pen-knife. 
 
 Wo took the cars at eight r. m. from Calais, and 
 reached Paris at a quarter past five. There were no 
 fences in the country through which we passed, but 
 many rows of trees, which probably serve to divide the 
 land. In the wet districts were drains of four or JivQ 
 feet in width, bordered with rows of trees. In summer 
 they must present a picturesque appearance. Some old 
 ruins on the hills, and many windmills, ready for Don. 
 Quixotte, diversified the scene, "We observed in one of 
 the ploughed fields a man and woman drawing a harrow. 
 The land is so well tilled, and soft, that horse power 
 seems unnecessary. The houses of brick or stone, paint- 
 ed white or yellow, were very small and low, and would 
 not have suited us in America. "We passed through the 
 outskirts of several towns, but every thing looked old 
 and stationary. At one steep grade they w^ere obliged 
 to sprinkle ashes and sand upon the track. At Douay, 
 (I think) an old walled town, we got some sandwiches 
 to stay our apetite; and such sandwiches! As large 
 as a man's arm, round, and ten inches long. They were 
 almost too much for us, though we succeeded in getting 
 them down at last. Here we took a fresh engine, and 
 the I'emainder of the journey was performed at a rate 
 of speed that would have excited the attention of even 
 one of our reckless American engineers. We rushed 
 thrnngh the streets of villages, without any warning 
 whistle, in a manner which made the cars actually leap 
 on the track. The French have something like our 
 
8S VARrlS. 
 
 cteck system, bjit it is very defective ; and it was mora, 
 than an hpur after our arrival before we could reacb, 
 the Hotel Windsor. 
 
 Paris, Nov. lOtli — As my last letter, written on two. 
 sheets of American foolscap, cost me in postage to New 
 York, via Liverpool, 70 ceats, I will now try a little of 
 t\he thin French paper. My communications will bo 
 sent through Livingston, Wells & Co., No, 8 Place do 
 la Bourse, who are a branch of the Express house of' 
 "Wells, Fargo & Co.', New York, They act as g-enerai 
 agents for Americans on the continent, and forward let- 
 ters directed to their care to any pax^t of the worid. A 
 banking department is also attached to the- concern. 
 The house is a great convenience to Americans abroad. 
 
 To give an extended description of what I have al- 
 ready seen in Paris, would not only exceed my powers^ 
 Ijut also my patience. I can allude to certain portions 
 qf the "sights," and that is about all. I would recom- 
 mend no person to come to Paris unless somewhat 
 versed in the language; and to come only in summer, 
 and then take your time. Sight seeing, as a business, is 
 Ear.der than hoeing com. 
 
 The Hotel Windsor, where Lam staying, is, I believe, 
 like other French hotels. In the arched way under 
 "U'hich you enter, is the office of the porteress, who takes 
 charge of- the gate, which is shut at night. There aro 
 also other oifices under the arch. You enter the court 
 yard, which is square, and see a building all about you, 
 eeven stories high. The hotels at Boulogne and Calais 
 were not so high. From this court yard are stairways 
 of stone, wood and marble, leadings to the chambers. 
 There is also a door leading- to. the- coiFee room. We 
 have no public table. Ladies can take their meals at 
 the little tables in the coffee room, where the gentlemen , 
 never smoke or wear their hats. CaH for what you 
 please, at any htmr, and it will be served up in a- style 
 of cookery unknown at any hotel in New York. Every 
 thing tastes good; the difficulty is you do not know 
 V^hat you are eating. " When weal is in, cats is out^" 
 
r A E. I s . 29 
 
 said Sam "Wellcr. The reverse may take place in Paris. 
 On cooker}^, hy which I am to hve or die, I say, gWa 
 me the English or iVmcrican, simply because then I 
 know where I am. If you call for coflce here, you will 
 get it black with strciiglh. If you ask for brandy, it is 
 brought Avithout water, and in a very small wine glass. 
 The French drink brandy as a cordial; did they try the 
 liquid fire which is called brandy in America, they would 
 burn their mouths. 
 
 Our hotel is in the Rv.c Rivoli, the houses of which 
 extend over the sidewalks and rest on large arches, 
 thus protecting the passengers in rainy weather. There ■ 
 are other streets here built in a similar manner. We 
 are directly'- opposite the gardens of the Tuilleries, which 
 are not so large as I expected to find them. Here are 
 heaps' of chairs, where the people sit in summer ; many 
 avenues of trees, broad walks adorned with marble sta- 
 tues, a pond of water, shrubs and flowers. The wholo 
 is surrounded by a high iron railing. At each gate ia 
 a soldier with his musket ou his shoulder, and wrapped 
 in a long cloak. They are placed before all the public 
 buildings here; you see them at every step in the street; 
 \n ones, twos and threes ; and ever and anon you see 
 companies of them marching to music from quarter to 
 quarter. The Emperor lets the Parisians hear the druml 
 They know its meaning. At one end of the garden ia 
 a low stone fence, within which are the private gardens 
 attached to the palace. They arc pretty, but not es* 
 tensive. The palace — the town residence of Louis Na- 
 poleon — has a dark and sombre appearance. There ia 
 a high mass of builcling, with tall chimneys, then a low- 
 er building connecting with another mass, with its roof 
 like a dome ; then, more low structures until it reaches 
 a tall edifice at the further extremity. Behind this 
 front, run wings which enclose one or two large court 
 yards, and which the Emperor is now joining to the 
 Palace of the Louvre, directly behind the Tuilleries and 
 fronting on another street. It is a good walk before 
 Vi'eakfast to go around the two palaces. I have tried 
 
 3* 
 
30 tARIS. 
 
 it. The Murderer is now at his palace of St. Cloud, 
 three miles from Paris, which is his summer residence. 
 A light is seen before the palace at St. Cloud to-night, 
 to tell the Parisians that their beloved is there. He 
 rides in to the Tuilleries once or twice a week. I saw 
 one or two carriages containing ladies, then a troop of 
 horses, among whom the Emperor was supposed to be. 
 Borne of the people took off their hats ; I touched mine 
 to the Empress, 
 
 Not far from the Hotel. Windsor is the Palais Eoyal,;. 
 ©nee the property of Louis Phillippe. It is now con-, 
 uerted into shops or stores, as we .would call them. At 
 night here is a brilliant display. You pass the sentinel 
 ajid enter a hall of columns; you then come to a square 
 surrounded by shops; then to a long and high arcade^ 
 with a rounded glass roof, filled with shops; then you 
 reach the grand square, and a large one it is, with water 
 and flowers in the. centre, and completely surrounded, 
 by illuminated shops. There must be between six 
 hundred and one thousand of these shops in the Palaia 
 Eoyal, and every one of them is as brilliantly lighted 
 as any in Broadway, and filled with myriads of fancy 
 goods in gold and silver, silk, ivory, &c. These shops- 
 are not attended by lazy louts of young men, but by 
 females dressed as only, French women can dress. Many 
 qf them wear such coquettish looking caps upon their 
 heads. Half the women you see in the streets have no- 
 thing bat caps on their heads. As to these female 
 clerks, I consider them, as " extra hazardous." If you 
 go in to buy a pair of kid gloves, they insist on putting 
 them on for you, pulling them slowly and by degrees, 
 first this finger and then that, gently pressino- the glove 
 down the palm of your hand until the fit is perfect. 
 They have not tried it on me yet, and I dg not intend 
 they shall. When I go into any of these shops with 
 any person, I button my overcoat tightly about me, 
 and keep near the door. 
 
 There are numerous cafes or refreshment saloons in 
 the Palais Eoyal. The grand square in summer, is tho 
 
resort of crowds. Children chase their hoops, and" all* 
 is hilarity. The French live much out of doors, and, 
 enjoy the passing hour. Vive la bagatelle ! 
 
 " English Spoken," is printed on many shop windows ; 
 but it is poor English. My "commissionaire," ox valet- 
 de 'place^ whom I have hired at ninety-four cents a day 
 to go about with me, speaks this English. He says, 
 that at tlie Dead House on the Seine, there may be 
 seen " Five, six, one, three, two body every morning; 
 they ketch 'em out of the River." A company of young 
 soldiers passed us. He said "them's what you call 
 intantry— little fellers." He did'not know he was making 
 a pun. ' Wiien we go to see the modern curiosities at 
 any place, he says, "Now you want to go to, see the_j 
 antics.?" by which he means the antiques. 
 
 You can get a carnage in Paris, when your route is.. 
 a long one, for forty cents an hour. 
 
 The Bourse is the exchange, where the brokers and' 
 merchants meet. It is n handsome building, surrounded 
 by columns. A woman at. the door took my cnne, 
 although there was no picture to poke. It was not 
 the hour for the French 'bulls' and 'bear^.' I paid for 
 the keeping of my cane. It is one eternal'flow of small 
 silver from the day you set your foot upon the shores 
 of Europe. I had been, told that Paris was a cheap, 
 city to live in. The falsehood is too apparent. 
 
 The Egyptian obelisk in the Place de la Concorde 
 was brought from Egypt by Napoleon. It is smaller 
 and not so tall as you iipagine, but covered with hier- 
 oglyphifS. Two handsome fountains are near it. — • 
 Abbott's Egyptian collection at New York is better 
 Avorth seeing. 
 
 In the I'lace Vendomc is a column composed entirely 
 of cannon captured by Napoleon. It has a dark, bronzo 
 look, and is covered with sculptures to the top. 
 
 In the riace de la Bastilc stands a column in mera- 
 - ory of those that fell m one of the struggles for what 
 the French, only, call liberty. Here once stood._thQ. 
 terrible prison, the Bastilc. 
 
32 PARIS. 
 
 The Arch of Triumph stands in the Champs Ehjsees^ 
 It is a grand and imposing arch; on its fronts are sculp- 
 tured mementos of Napoleon. 
 
 The Champs Ehjsees is a very A\dde avenue, filled 
 with trees, handsome houses and cafes. Thousands of 
 the citizens of Paris here ramble or drive of a summer 
 afternoon. There are booths under the trees, where 
 are various performances. Blind fiddlers, with poor 
 littie dogs sitting near them with baskets tied to their 
 necks, into which you can drop coppers; and so on, 
 
 The Boidevards are also wide avenues, extending on 
 the site of the old wall around a great part of the city. 
 The modern wall is now some miles out of town. The 
 sidewalks of the Boulevards are the widest I ever 
 saw. The houses, five and six stories high. Before 
 the doors of the cafes are little tables, where men and 
 women eit and view the crowds who promenade here 
 in pleasant weath.er. Every thing goes on pleasantly. 
 Nobody gets drunk in France. Eowdies are never 
 seen, except in tlie da^'s of revolutions. 
 
 I visited the edifice where sit the Deputies. Their- 
 room is prett}-, and lined with grey marble. It is not 
 as Lirg-e as one of our Senate Chambers. The- other- 
 brarrehj called the Senate, sit in the Luxembourg. 
 
 ]\Iost of the public buildings here are composed of a 
 white stone brought from near Bordeaux. A large 
 Crystal Palace of t[iis material is now being constructed. 
 It will be built to last, and will eventually become a 
 place of amusement. In Paris are about twenty-five 
 theatres. I have been, for a half-hour o:? so, into two 
 of tlieni, but could understand nothing. The great 
 French actress, Rachel, plays occasionally, but it alwaj^s 
 makes her sick. I should like to hear her. She was 
 once a beggar girl in the streets. I went one afternoon 
 into Franconi's Hippodrome. It is about as large, but 
 not so showy as its namesake in New York. The 
 performances were of the same order. 
 
 "Went to the cemetery oi Pere la Chaise. In a street 
 •v^hich leads to it were many tomb-stones, black crosses 
 
HTs-simE m).Msii - (giv.iPisiiimiiiv.iL 
 
 xint jr SLIDES » 
 
Paris. 3? 
 
 and artificial flower Avreaths exposed for sale. A fu- 
 neral train passed us at the gate. It was that of a 
 young girl. Some of her companions, with whito 
 dresses, and long veils upon their heads, wera following 
 the. body. A man came out from a lodge and acted as 
 our guide. In one of the walks was a woman with no 
 covering on her head, walking up and doAvn before the 
 grave of her husband Here she would stay all night 
 long and not go away until five o'clock the- next after- 
 noon. Many of the tombs were himg with whito and 
 yellow wreaths, with these words upon them — "To my 
 Falhcr,'' "To. my Mother," "To my Sister," "To my 
 Brother," &c. We saw the tomb of Abelard and' 
 Heloise, overtopped by a handsome little temple of. 
 dnrk stone. Also the tombs of La Place, Talma, Sfc 
 Pierre (the author of Paul and Virgima)-, Marshal Ney, 
 and others. Within an iron railiug is a mound offlow^ 
 ers, and at its foot a bit of stone six inches squai-^j witb 
 tliis word upon it — Ne^.- Moliere and La Fontaine lie- 
 side by side in the same little enclosure. Cuvier (the 
 great "natural bone setter") also reposes here in peace 
 and quiet. But I cannot enumerate half the distin- 
 guished men who lie buried in Perc la Chaise. The 
 monuments are closer together than at Mount Auburn, 
 near Bostom From one part of the cemetery you get 
 a view of Paris. 
 
 Visited tlie reno^vnedchurch of Notre Dame, the ex- 
 terior view of which impressed me more- than did St. 
 Paul's, at Lond(w. The architecture of the front and 
 its two ln)wers, is gTOtesq-i>e and striking. Within, it is 
 not unlike- other cathedrals. 
 
 Went to ic Morgue, or the dead house, on the Seine. 
 There ucre no bodies lying for recognition, but a great 
 many dresses of those that had been drowned, hung, 
 upon tlie Avails. The Seine is a small river, but it could 
 tell horrifl tales of murder and suicide, if it could speak. 
 
 The bridges over the Seine are of lighter and hand- 
 Bomcr architecture than those over the Thames at Loo?^. 
 don. 
 
34 r A It I s . 
 
 "Went to the Hotel Cluny^ where we were admitted 
 on showing our passports, and registering our names. 
 Hero are many curiosities, for wlnich -^vide catalogue.'''' 
 
 The Pantheon is a very beautiful edifice : as is also 
 the Church of the Madeleine. 
 
 "\Ve rode to the Palace of the Lzixemhoiirg, and as- 
 cended its wide marble stairs. Here is the Chamber 
 of the French Senate, a very pretty room. Many of 
 the rooms of the palace had floors of inlaid wood; hard, 
 handsome, polished, and slippery. In the galleries of 
 paintings were male and female artists copying cele- 
 brated pictures. There was a large collection of fine 
 statuar3^ We entered the chapel of Catherine de Me- 
 dicis, the marble floor of which was much worn. Also 
 the bod chamber of A[ary de Medicis : the gilding on 
 the walls of which had stood two hundred and twenty 
 years. Here we saw the gilt chair in which the Empe- 
 ror is to sit when he visits the Senate. Would that 
 there were a needle worked into the cushion ! 
 
 "Went to the Palace of the Louvre, behind Napoleon 
 od's Tuilleries. Here were splendid marble stairways, 
 and a gorgeous banquet hall, the sides gilded, and the 
 top ornamented with paintings. Passed a wilderness 
 of statuary, and got into a gallery of pictures which 
 seemed to have no end. It is also very lofty. Here was 
 a crowd of visiters, and perhaps a hundred artists, a 
 majorit}'' females, and some quite pretty, copying pic- 
 tures. This floor was also inlaid wood, and with nails 
 in the heels of my boots, I thought I should tumble 
 down. Through room after room of works of arts, and 
 ancient and modern curiosities, I hurried, and w^as glad 
 to find myself in the street. Those who are very fond 
 of paintings and statues, should spend at least a Ayeek 
 in the Louvre and the other places. 
 
 Versailles, the most extensive palace in Prance, ex- 
 cept Napoleon's ('the little corporal) residence at Fon- 
 tainebleau, is about half an hour's journey by railway 
 from Paris. The grounds behind the palace are of im- 
 mense extent, with many woods, statues, and fountains, 
 
PARIS. 85 
 
 Grleaming marble and green trees meet the eye at every 
 distant view. In summer, ci^owds come liere on Sundays 
 from Pari?, when the fountains all play at once. No 
 wonder that the French love to be out of doors, with 
 such places to visit. Within the palace were many 
 rooms tilled with paintings and scidpture. I did not 
 enter all the rooms. Horace Vernet's modern paintings 
 of the battles in Algiers, attracted my attention. They 
 are very large, and I think, capitally executed^ With- 
 in the palace is a chapel w*here the kings could prayj 
 and a theatre, where they could play. 
 
 About twenty minutes' walk from the palace of 
 Versailles is a little old palace called ^'■Trianon.'''' Na- 
 poleon was the last occupant of it ; and much of his 
 furniture remained. It was handsome ; but the Fifth 
 Avenue snobs of New York would not think it gaudy 
 enough. The bed was full of gilding, and looked Im- 
 perial and cheerless. The room was too large, and the 
 wash-stand too splendid. AVe saw several little beds 
 with canopies, where had slept royal babies. The 
 drawing rooms, ante-rooms, &c , Avere quite handsome. 
 The dining hall was beautiful; ornamented with woodj 
 marble, bronze statues, &c. The music saloon looked 
 out upon the grounds, and down avenues of trees. The 
 room where Napoleon used to " do his writing," much 
 interested me. 
 
 Nov. 13th. — -I have thus briefly touched on some 
 things which I have seen, and am now only waiting for 
 some American or Englishman on his way to Italy. I 
 am a poor traveller, and am tired of sight seeing. I 
 shall start for Marseilles alone, in a few days, if I find 
 no one going. It is two and a half days' journe}''. I 
 wish to reach Italy, where I intend to "settle down" for 
 the winter. 
 
 JVov. \5th. — Paris is a handsomer city than London. 
 There are more wide streets into w^hich the light of the 
 sun can shine; the buildings are more generally lofty, 
 and the architecture of the public edifices seems to be 
 of a superior order. In many of the streets, where bar- 
 
36 p A n I s . 
 
 ricades used to be erected, the Emperor has caused th6 
 pavements to be taken up, and the streets to be Mc 
 Adamized; thus keeping the people at work, and re- 
 moving the material out of which they make barricades 
 in time of civil war. The trees in most of the aforesaid 
 streets have been cut down during former revolutions. 
 The sidewalks o-f the best streets are composed of as- 
 phaltum-, which, as well as the stucco, stands better in 
 this climate and that of England, than in ours. 
 
 The women here are prettier than the English. — 
 They have quite as full rounded forms, and a darker 
 and handsomer eye. Were I fifteen years younger, I 
 might not be able to put up with their fascinations. 
 At present, they are as harmless as water upon a 
 duck's back. 
 
 Many priests are seen in the streets with theh' long 
 gowns and peculiar broad-brimmed hats — old style. 
 They look full-faced and sleek, and are not unacquainted 
 with sweet-breads, the breasts of chickens and part- 
 ridges, and fine wines. 
 
 The soldiers are police, and the police are soldiers. 
 Both are everywhere. 
 
 The horses and carriages are about on a par with 
 those of the English. Here is the same immense dray 
 car drawn by two or three horses, tandem. The om- 
 nibuses are the largest I have seen, and hold sixteen 
 persons. The English omnibuses are smaller than ours 
 and not so comfortable. The cabs here are very good 
 and well arranged. 
 
 As to the morals of this people, they are neither 
 here nor the e. Certainly they are not here. On Sun- 
 day evening the shops and theatres w^ere all open as 
 usual. I walked in the Palais Eoyal for two hours. 
 Saw some of the largest pears I ever beheld — as big as 
 a small baby's head. They have ribbed apples, which 
 are nearly as large as the Newtown pippin, though not 
 BO good. The pears are fine, though not equal to the 
 Vergaloo. They are not exposed for sale in baskets of 
 heaps ; each one lies in his snug white paper nest with 
 hie plump belly exposed. 
 
PARIS. 37 
 
 In the poultry and meat shops every thing is neat 
 snd clean. The former are not attended by fellows 
 with red shirts and dirty white aprons, but by hand- 
 somely dressed females. 
 
 If you go into a French shop to make a purchase; 
 you are Tecetved with great politeness. Your exit is 
 also marked by many bows, smirks and smiles. Yet, 
 Under all this monkey lies the tiger ^ which in days of ■ 
 revolution tears the heart from its enemy alive. The ; 
 Frenchman can purchase cheaper than the American ' 
 and Englishman; the two last must expect to be cheat- 
 ed. If you make a bargain for a carriage, there is 
 always something else to pay. The American is the 
 greatest favorite here; he pays without grumblings 
 while the Englishman does not. 
 
 The season for Paris is the spring or summer, when 
 the trees and flowers, which are numerous, are in bloom, 
 One must also understand something of the language, 
 or two-thirds of his pleasure is destroyed. I can't get 
 on at all without a valet de place. I asked for lemon 
 eoda here at the table; the waiter brought me a stone 
 bottle of plain soda, with a small pump in the cork, 
 und a lemon. I got it at last. He called it ' lemonade 
 :gass weiss.' I went after a warm bath, and was told 
 to ask for "e/i Saws/io/" (not banjo.) I did. The man 
 «aid he did not comprehendez vous. I told him to go 
 ■to the d — I, and walked away. The other night I lost 
 my companion. I did not know the way to my hotel. 
 I said to a cabman, ^^voitureP'' (carriage.) He replied 
 '-'■oui^ out., {wee^ wee) Monsieur," just as if I were a pig. 
 When I got in, another man came to the door and 
 landed me a paper, as big as my thumb nail, and mad« 
 a remark I said I could not parlez vous Frangais. 
 When I reached the hotel I enquired leprix (the price), 
 and was told un franc, and some sous. I took out the 
 franc und some copper coin ; and the cabman was only 
 -satisfied when he had got all I held in my hand. Of 
 course I knew I was cheated. 
 
 . . : 4 
 
88 PARIS." 
 
 As to understanding the signs, it is impossibleT— « 
 Biere for beer; and Tahao over the tobacco and segar 
 shops. 
 
 The gentleman from Islip, who will remain here after 
 I am gone, and myself, went yesterday to get our 
 passports "fixed" for Italy. First to the American 
 Ambassador's, where we were dispatched in good time, 
 and were not obliged to wait the motions of inflated 
 elerks, as at London, where we were kept waiting 
 until the entrance of Mr. Buchanan, who, on being told 
 of our case, left the room and sent the absconding clerka 
 back to their duty post haste. To go to the diflferent 
 cities of Italy, we yesterday had to visit the represen- 
 tatives of the Austrian, Sardinian, Tuscan, Roman, and 
 Neapolitan governments, and also the French Prefec- 
 ture of Police. In Europe they take down the name 
 ftnd appearance of every poor single traveler, so that 
 they may keep their eye upon him, and see that he 
 does not kick up a revolution. 
 
 Since my last despatch, I have seen the following : 
 
 The Hotel de Ville (or City Hall) of Paris, which is a 
 Mgh, capacious and handsome structure, rather eclips- 
 ing the City Hall of New York, which looks very well. 
 
 The Jarclin des Plantes (Garden of Plants), which in 
 eu^umer is the resort of crowds. After entering, you 
 ascend a hill by a winding path, bordered by shrubbery 
 as high as your breast, and confined within light wicker 
 fences, to a bronze temple, from which, on every side, 
 you get good views of the city. The garden is exten- 
 sive, and contains many rare shrubs, flowers and trees ; 
 and also a collection of animals, birds, &c. My valet 
 compares it to the " Zw////;/e " (Zoological) gardens of 
 London. Many of the animals could not bear the chilly 
 day and had gone withindoors. The rhinoceros, giraffe, 
 &c., were out; -and the bears, down in their enclosures, 
 were sitting on their hams, and catching in their moutha 
 ■ the nuts, &e., sent to them by the spectators. This ia 
 not the season in which to visit the gardens. 
 
 The- Hotel des InvaUdes is an institution for the old 
 
PARIS. 3(9| 
 
 and worn out soldier who has served his country a cer- 
 tain term of years. We saw the old fellows stumping 
 about with their wooden legs, and without both arms : 
 we were shown into the sleeping and eating rooms; saw 
 the library, also the cannon ball which killed Turenne. 
 The old warriors, like others of their class, are not 
 averse to a little tobacco and grog. Napoleon is burie(J 
 here; but his tomb, uncompleted, is not shewn. 
 
 At last I have had a bath ! I got the valet de place, 
 to go and give the proper twang to the eh banslio, when- 
 they made me pay in advance forty-six cents, something 
 for the waiter, something for the soap, (you never see 
 soap here unless you call for it!^ until I was at last suf- 
 ficiently swindled and allowed to depart. They spread 
 a sheet over the bath and it sinks with the water and 
 yourself. The one I had was none too clean. 
 
 Nov. I6th — I leave Paris this morning for Chalons, 
 on my way to Marseilles. I have Murray's Guide Book 
 of " Travelers Talk,'' in English, German, French and 
 Italian ; but whether I shall stick by the way or not, 
 remains to be seen. 
 
 Nov. [7th. — The country was enveloped in a fog 
 yesterday, so that very little of it could be seen. I 
 found a person in the car with me who could speak 
 English, so I got on very well. We stopped at half 
 past twelve, to lunch, and found a regular french tabic 
 d'hote in waiting for us. Here, as usual, the waiters 
 bring round the dishes to the guet-ts and let them help 
 themselves. At least six or seven different dishes, nearly 
 all strangers to me, were handed round, before tho 
 fruits, nuts, &c. came on. The common wine, {vin oT' 
 dmaire) of the country, was free to all. If you wish to 
 taste something like it, I will give you a recipe for* its 
 manufacture. One quart of watei", two gills of vinegar, 
 and a teacup full of Maynard & Noyes' best black ink ; 
 then you have iYiQvin ordinaire. The dinner was about 
 fifty-six cents ; but the gargon (waiter) handed round 
 his plate for the coppers. If you go into a cafe in France, 
 the waiter always brings a part of your change in copper^ 
 which he counts upon as his. 
 
4fe CHALOKS, 
 
 ■ At Chalons I stopped at the Hotel du Pare. Here aff^ 
 elsewhere, I noticed the peculiar construction of French 
 stoves. On one side of the room you see a white porce- . 
 Iain (or something like it) bureau, or chest of drawers, as 
 you take it to be, very glossy and pretty. This is the 
 etove, but the fire is not visible. 
 
 • About fi-ve in the morning Iwent to the boat whicb- 
 wa^ to take us down the river Saonej to Ly&ns. At 
 seven &' clock, two hours behind time, she departed. 
 She was long and only about fifteen feet- across- in the 
 widest part. There was an open deck; it was a raw, 
 rainy day, and the two little cabins below, were crowd- 
 ed'with passengers. I wanted my breakfast, but did 
 not know how to call for it At last I said to the gar^ 
 gon, with as much of the French accent as I could corn- 
 man d-^G«/e. He brought the coffee, and luckily, with,, 
 it plenty of bread and butter; the; latter v/ithout any 
 salt in it, as usu^I, 
 
 The Saone is a small river, and rather muddy. The 
 scenery along its banks would have looked pretty, had 
 not the weather spoiled it. We passed under several- 
 handsome suspension bridges, without lowering the 
 smoke-pipe, as they are obliged to do- on the Thames. 
 
 I noticed two gentlemen whose faces were not covered 
 by hair; and supposing that they could speak English^ 
 I addressed theni. One of them I at onKJe attached my- 
 self to. He is of Irish birth, but has resided for many 
 years in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, where he has rela- 
 tives at the present time. He is an old bachelor, past 
 fifty years of age ; has been on the Continent before; 
 can read French, but only pronounces a little of it ; is 
 going with me direct to Florence, and is the most cheer- 
 ful and talkative individual, male or female, that I ever 
 met. Per contra, he has not a very high opinion of 
 French women in particular, and priests in general. 
 
 As we approached Lyons, the River wound amongst 
 handsome liills, until we reached that celebrated manu- 
 faturing town, one of the chief cities of France, vdth twO' 
 hundred and seventy-five thousand inhahitantSj indud- 
 
LYONS. 41 
 
 ing the suburbs. Among all these people none are so 
 well known to us as "Claude Melnotte" and the "Lady 
 of Lyons," whom we have so often seen at the Theatre^ 
 in New York. 
 
 I called for the "porteur" of the Hotel Loo7ieyvair, 
 (Hotel Zr' Univers) and as I had got the pronunciation 
 quite correct,, a man- came forward, who at once prO' 
 ceeded to perform a feat which would have astonished 
 eome of our Irish porters. He took four heavy trunks 
 and two carpet bags upon his shoulders at one time, and 
 carried them across the deck up a flight of steps into 
 the custom house. There was no examination, of course, 
 as we had come from no foreign town, and the luggage 
 was passed out to the hotel omnibus, and carried up to 
 its roef by means of a ladder. 
 
 We delivered our passports to the landlord until ho 
 could make a memorandum of them for the police. 
 We ate of we knew not what, went to bed after a 
 ramble in the damp streets, and got up for the steamer 
 which was to carry us down the Rhone. Lyons is at 
 the confluence of the Ehone and Saone. 
 
 The steamer was only about twelve feet wide in its 
 broadest part ; with an open deck, but very long It 
 was shaped like a weaver's shuttle; and would have 
 served for Goliah of Gath, had he been a weaver. 
 There were not so ra^ny passengers as to put us to 
 great inconvenience, and we got on very well, although 
 the day was dark and sour. I looked about for 
 
 "The blue rushing of the arrowy Rhone," 
 
 as sung by Byron, but could not see it. The watet 
 was dirty and the river narrower than I had expected. 
 The machinery of our shuttle was out of order, some 
 of it banging against one of the beams. They stop- 
 ped the boat once or twice, and the engineer came out 
 with a hammer in one hand and a dish-cloth in tho 
 other. He kneeled on the latter, and pounded with the 
 former. If the "Isaac Newton" and " Hendrick Hud- 
 son" were not too large for the small rivers of Europe, 
 
 and could be placed upon one of them, the entire pop- 
 
 4* 
 
ti MARSEILLES. 
 
 Illation of the country would gather to the banks to 
 gaze upon them. 
 
 In the afternoon, the sun began to appear and light- 
 ed up the scenery, which was very fine. High hills, 
 starting back from the river, or crowding close to its, 
 banks, with white dwellings half way. up their sides, 
 were seen; and nothing was required but a few old 
 ruins (some of which we thought we saw) to-bringthis 
 river in competition with the Khine, 
 
 The river became wider and more winding. Thre© 
 men mounted on a frame, like a hay-scales, with a rope 
 hitched to the handle of the rudder, steered the boat* 
 First they pulled the rope this way, then that way, 
 presenting tableaux that would have caused an Ameri- 
 can steersman to-laugh the tears into his eyes. How-^ 
 ever, we got along after a fashion. T took out my 
 watch and shewing it to one of the hands, pointed to! 
 the dial and said ^^ Avignoji.''^ He replied, cattery 
 (quatre) by which ! inferred that we were to arrive at 
 four o'clock. At five we reached Avignon. There 
 was no system on the boat respecting the delivery of 
 luggage and much confusion ensued. 
 
 After seeing our luggage at the. Railway, office, get» 
 ting receipts for it,, and paying our fare,, we went to 
 the Hotel Ullurope^ where we took supper. At ten 
 o'clock at night on the 18th we reached Marseilles, 
 and took lodgings at the Hotel cles Empereurs. Here 
 there was no soap in my room. I went out and bought 
 a cake. I have been one myself for not keeping those 
 I have paid for. 
 
 Marseilles, Nov. i^th. — Here I am by the Mediter- 
 ranean Sea, in the " middle of the earth." The 
 steamer of to-day is full, and we shall be obliged to 
 wait here until the 22d. A gentleman and lady from 
 Baltimore, my Pittsbui'gh acquaintance and myself, 
 took a boat and went off into the bay, crammed full of 
 shipping, to look at the steamers. One was too small, 
 but the other the Ville de Marseilles, was well looking 
 and of good size. The gentleman from Baltimore went 
 
Marseilles!; 4^ 
 
 op her side, to inspect the accommodations, while the-- 
 rest of the party remained behind in the boat. Sud- 
 denly there was a sound as of a human body falling tO; 
 the deck; a Frenchman in a blue blouse rushed down^ 
 the ladder to our boat, crying out : Mon Dieu ! • Mon' 
 l)ieu ! ! and wringing his hands. We were much- 
 alarmed for our absent companion, but before we could 
 get up the ladder, he appeared above and told us that 
 one of the sailors had fallen and was nearly killed. A, 
 Physician was sent fop at once, and the poor f^low put 
 under his cai*©.. 
 
 Thegentlemarr and his wife do not:go in this steamer ; ^ 
 but my bachelor friend and myself have taken passage-' 
 for Leghorn, at eighty-five franca each- and ' found,'' 
 ($15 73.) The steamer leaves at four p. m., on the 22d 
 instant, reaches Genoa at about noon next- day, lies 
 there till the afternoon of the 24tb, and-hopes to arrives 
 at Leghorn next morning. From thence there is a rail- 
 way to Florence. At the office of- the steamer they 
 asked ninety-seven and a half frames for our passage, 
 but we "beat them down "-to eighty-fives 
 
 Marseilles is a seaport, of ' great importance. There 
 are about one-hundred and ninety thousand inhabitants. 
 Many persons from the East^ wearing strange dresses, 
 are seen in the streets. M«n are sitting in chairs on 
 the sidewalks all over the town, and getting their boota 
 blacked. The cafe's are numerous. One of them, the 
 Cafe de i' U?tivers is very handsome. Almost equal 
 to Taylor's Saloon in New York. The continual clatter 
 of dominoes is heard upon the many marble tables. 
 Some take their cofiee plain, others put a petite glass 
 of brandy in it. 
 
 The weather is like April. In the trees on the pub- 
 lic walks, flocks of birds are singing. Eoses are 
 blooming in enclosures in the open air. There are 
 some pretty fountains, a ti'iumphal arch, &c., to be 
 seen here. The town has a solid, substantial look. 
 
 Nov. 20lh — This is sunday, and a fine day. The 
 military are marching up and down, the streets witk. 
 
44 MARSEILLES. 
 
 their music ; and crowds of people are out on this their 
 holiday. Priests and soldiers ; soldiers and priests iii, 
 plenty ; ready to wrestle with the Austrians or with 
 the Devil, at the tap of the drum. The Theatres are 
 to be open to-night ; and a grand opera is to be- giveu. 
 Also a sort of funny literary auction, with many other 
 ^ijioisements. Vive la France ! 
 
 \ sl3.all be glad to reach Florence, for my passport is 
 getting expensive. The American Consul here, Mr. 
 Hodge, has charged me ten francs for his vise,. This. 
 is more than double the charge at any of the foreign 
 offices. The Ambassadors at London and Paris make 
 no charge. Mr. Hodge seems determined to make as 
 much out of his office as possible 
 
 Nov. 22c?. — If a traveller be not a little critical on 
 the manners he meets with away from home, he for- 
 goes one of his special privileges, to judge from the 
 books and letters that have been written on America, 
 First, then, I assert that the best mannered men you 
 meet with abroad are Americans ; that is if gentle- 
 manly conduct consists in doing or saying npthing 
 offensive to those with whom you come in contact,, and 
 yielding some of your conveniences to their comfort. 
 I have met but two unmannerly cubs,, and both of 
 them were British subjects. One was an Englishman, 
 a sprig of nobility, (as we inferred from his passport,) 
 whom the gentleman from Islip and myself encountered 
 at one of the foreign offices in Paris. He insisted on 
 putting himself before us, when he had come after us, 
 and saw us waiting our turn; but as this was not 
 entirely proper or agreeable, I left my seat and placed 
 myself in advance of him, as I had a perfect right to 
 do, receiving therefor a very aristocratic stare from a 
 face covered with hair. But that was of no use, and 
 my passport was done before his. My friend then 
 requested to be allowed to take his turn, but the 
 Englishman would not permit it. However, as good 
 luck would have it, he had not procured the British 
 Ambassador's signature in Paris, and was sent off tO: 
 
MARSEILLES. 45 
 
 get it before he could have his wishes attended to. Ho 
 departed with much grunibhng, which amused us 
 greatly. On the steamer from Marseilles was an Irish- 
 man, his face also covered with hair. He had much 
 to say concerning his " grounds," his intention, to build 
 a yacht, &c., and took especial pains to decry every, 
 thing he saw, as well as everything American. For 
 this he received more than one sharp retort, which, 
 would have touched any one but a British snob. Hia, 
 conduct and language became at last so offensive, even* 
 before ladies, that my companion from Pittsburgh,. 
 who is also nn Irishman and a. British: subject, had a 
 quarrel with his countryman, whom he pronounced 
 *' no gentleman," and the " gre^atest as^" he^ had ever, 
 before met. 
 
 As to Fr^inch politeness,, it does sot seem to me to-, 
 come from the heart. Step on a Frenchman's toes — . 
 meet him early on a cold chilly, mocmng in a steamboat 
 or railroad car-rr-^nd he ia. sulky and cross. His polite^, 
 ness is, iBerely a. part of his education, and means, 
 nothing. Ask himtojend you a Napoleon ! He has- 
 feft his, purse at home. At theatres, and other public 
 resorts, you will seldom see a Frenchman give his seat, 
 to a lady, no matter how long she has been standing ;^_ 
 and where the house is full, be , will stand in the door- 
 ways, wearing liis hat, to the inconvenience of those 
 standing behind him ; and takes it off with a scowl, 
 when politely requested. So much for. manners. 
 
 The English and French Hotels are deficient in one 
 important feature. They seldom have any public par- 
 lors, or sitting rooms. The Italian hotels, I believe, 
 fail also in this respect. The wish seems to be that 
 you shall take and pay for, a parlor. They are also* 
 more cold and cheerless than our hotels. Stone stair- 
 eases and floors, even in your bedrooms — sometimes, 
 with narrov, strips of carpet, but often without. The 
 cookery is doubtless better than at our hotels, although 
 I, prefer the English to the French. At a French table 
 dhote you may be helped to ten kinds of meat and fail,, 
 to recognize more than one or twQv, 
 
46 MEDITERRANEAN. 
 
 As to the expense of travelling in Europe, a single 
 man may do it, after some experience, for eight or ten 
 dollars a day.* I speak from my own experience, as 
 well as from that of several others. The expense in 
 France is about the same as in England. If you get 
 this thing cheaper, you \\\\\ have to pay more for that. 
 
 Afternoon — We are ahout to leave Marseilles and 
 its surrounding hills ; its houses, with their lower wind- 
 ows protected by a framework of iron bars ; its long 
 teams, first two little asses, and then two large horses, 
 one behind the other, drawing enormous loads on great 
 cars; its ever ringing church bells, which jangle all 
 night and all day; its priests and its soldiers; its vehi- 
 cles drawn by small ponies, who are strong enough to 
 drag three persons (to one pony) swiftly along the 
 pleasant drive, extending for miles, and shaded with 
 trees. 
 
 Nov. 23c^. — At five yesterday afternoon the Yille de 
 Marseilles got under weigh and ploughed along by the 
 side of white clifis, which follow the coast for miles. — 
 The vessel is a very good one, and they feed us two 
 meals a day,, according^ to the French custom,, each of 
 which may be called a dinner. For example, at break- 
 fast this morning, several meats were handed round, 
 with vegetables, wine, and fruits of various kinds. The 
 meal occupied from half-past nine to eleven. Dinner 
 at six p. M., will be still more tremendous. Both the 
 French and English eat more food than the Americans. 
 
 "We are coursing along the mountainous coast of 
 Italy. At the foot of the hills, close by the edge of the 
 sea, small white towns are seen. Upon the distant 
 mountains there is snow, and the wind is sharp and 
 keen. Here and there a white house on the hill side,, 
 as if ladies had passed that way and dropped their 
 pocket handkerchiefs. The Mediterranean is quiet, 
 
 * I could now do it for ten dollars a day in England, seven , 
 dollai-s in France, and five dollars in Italy. When stationary ycHi 
 aaay live for about one-half. 
 
GENOA. 47 
 
 and no one is sick. We have but few passengers; 
 three Americans, two French, four Irish, and one Eng- 
 lish. Three are ladies. 
 
 One o'clock P. M— " Genoa the Superb," " Genoa 
 the Proud " is in sight. She hes by the sea-shore in 
 the form of a crescent, with hills behind her, whose 
 tops are fortified, and whose sides are sprinkled with 
 country houses. At two o'clock we anchored in the 
 hai'bor, where was considerable shipping. A boat came 
 off from shore containing men and women, boys and 
 girls, who plaj^ed and sang to us, with violin, guitar and 
 voice, receiving in return our copper coin. The girls 
 look up to us with their large, dark Italian eyes. They 
 are dressed in a shabby genteel way, with lace around 
 their wrists at the end of short sleeves, but their frocks 
 are not as they should be. None of them have any cov- 
 ering on their heads, but their hair is prettily done up. 
 
 Our passports were taken from us at Marseilles, to 
 be dehvered back to us at Leghorn; but the polico 
 have been furnished with a list of the passengers, and 
 on going before them and having our names checked 
 off, we are allowed to enter the city. Priests and 
 naonks, and soldiers ; they are all around us ; but the 
 prettiest sight is the white veil worn in place of the 
 bonnet by most of the women, and which is very grace-- 
 fully disposed. The streets are narrow, and the houses 
 high; you could, in some streets, jump from the roof 
 of one across to the other. Nearly all the lower win- 
 dows are covered with a frame of iron bars. 
 
 We remain here till to-morrow, paying our own 
 expenses. They will " find us" on board the steamer, 
 but we must also pay for it. This is French style. — 
 Some of the passengers have paid eighty-five francs, 
 and some ninety, to Leghorn. This is also French 
 , style. We go to the Hotel Fcder, which is said to be 
 a good house. 
 
 Nov. 24th. — The stone stairs of the hotel are much 
 worn and but poorly Ughted. I slipped and fi.41 down 
 one flight, headlong, exciting some sensation in the spec- 
 
48 G E i« O A . 
 
 tators and throughout the hotel generally, under thS 
 supposition that I was done for. Lights were brought 
 and a crowd gathered; but T. Q. fortunately escaped 
 with a lump upon the head. He will hereafter keep 
 one hand upon the railing while descending stone stair* 
 ways ; he will avoid all hotels whose entrances are not 
 well lighted •, and trusts that thosa who may come to 
 this part of the world will do the same. 
 
 Some of the churches of Genoa are very beautiful, 
 adorned with various colored marbles, sculptures and 
 gildings, with here and there a fine painting. We saw 
 'one church, which was 6xtremely sumptuous, and which 
 had been erected at the cost of a single family. 
 
 Saw the house of Cristopher Columbus, a very com- 
 fortable and capacious residence. The front was not 
 the original one, but a part of the rear was as of old. 
 Near by, a statue to Columbus is -to be erected. It 
 ■will probably be s6en about the same time as the ona 
 'to Washington in the Bowling G-reen, New York. 
 
 Went to the King's Palace. The King of Sardinia 
 is now at Turin. The palace was small but handsome. 
 •Some fine paintings, &c., w6re to be seen. The throne 
 Was not large. Under a canopy, upon an elevation 
 hovered by "a carpet, was a gilded chair; the whole 
 surrounded by a gilt railing. That was the throne. 
 The floors of some of the rooms were of inlaid polished 
 wood ; others were of a gray composition resembling 
 marble. Went into Her Majesty's bedroom ; handsome, 
 but did not look snug and comfortable. From one of 
 the upper rooms we walked out upon a marble terrace, 
 from which we had a fine view of the Mediterranean. 
 
 Went to a Marquis' palace. Fine paintings and 
 flculpture. Fees, of course, to the servants. Do they 
 =get any other wages ? 
 
 Entered the palace of the Balbi family. Quite a 
 handsome residence. The family were there, but allow- 
 ed the servants to show us about. We saw none of 
 the princely people. There were carpets on the floors, 
 which looked more comfortable than the cold stone. 
 
LEGHORN. 49 
 
 The ceilings of the rooms were high, vaulted and covered 
 by paintings and gildings. The collection of paintings 
 was good. There was a portrait of Titian by himself, 
 which was more like life than any portrait I ever saw 
 before. The old fellow had a sharp nose, a thin cheek, 
 a bright eye, and wore a little artist^ cap upon his head. 
 More fees to the servants. Do they get any wages? 
 
 There is a street in Grenoa called The Street of Pa- 
 laces ; but it does not come up to one's idea. Many of 
 the houses of the city have been handsome ; some have 
 been painted in" //esco on the outside; but time begins 
 to do his work upon them. Some are of marble ; but 
 Btucco-is generally visible. Here it sticks, but with us 
 I suppose it would soon peel off like any other plaster 
 exposed to our cKmate, 
 
 . We were to sail at sis p. m., 'but did not get off so 
 60on. The boat full of musicians came on board to give 
 ts-more music, and get more coppers. 
 
 At half past three in the morning, we anchored at 
 the " free port" 6t Leghorn. We were not allowed to 
 land until half past eight, and were then rowed to the 
 Custom House, where our luggage was examined, and 
 orders on the Police given to us so that we might obtam 
 our passports. Before we got on shore, a cripple was 
 , wheeled up for our alms, and a little dwarf came up and 
 began begging vociferously. 
 
 We had to pay about eighty cents each on getting 
 our passports. However, we fed well at the Hotel du 
 Nord, the commissioner of which, though a native of 
 this country, speaks good EngKsh. He was a sailor in 
 •our fleet which was at Vera Cruz when Scott took it. 
 
 At two p. M. we took the railway for Florence, where 
 we were to arrive at five. We passed through the 
 outskirts of Pisa, but could not see the leaning tower. 
 The country resembles that of France, though the 
 buildings look older. The railway and its fixtures were 
 like the French. Telegraph wires ran by the side of 
 the road. At half past six in the evening of the 25ch 
 N'ovember, we reached Florence; behind time, of course. 
 
 5 
 
50 FLORENCE. 
 
 All Europe is behind time. "We had much difficulty 
 both with passports and luggage ; but at last reached 
 a very comfortable hotel, called the " Grand Hotel de 
 New- York." 
 
 Florence is the favorite city in Italy of the Americans 
 and En'glish. If I can content myself here, I shall re- 
 main some months, making an excursion to Rome, &c. 
 If not, I shall first visit Rome, and then return to En- 
 gland, where I will endeavour to be satisfied for the 
 winter. If I fail in that, I shall go back to the United 
 States "per first steamer," thoroughly, entirely, and 
 conclusively satisfied and disgusted with all traveling \ 
 and firmly resolved never again to take my feet away 
 from the shores of my native land ; one town of which 
 — with all its faults — -containing more honesty and sin- 
 cerity than the whole continent of Europe. Right or 
 wrong, there is my opinion. 
 
 Florence, Nov. 26th. — Several of us who came up 
 together from Leghorn, have compared notes, and all 
 are disappointed in the external appearance of Florence. 
 
 '■ 'Tis distance lends enchantment to the view." 
 
 The town is old and yellow. The streets are narrow, 
 and nearly all without sidewalks. The carriages, how- 
 ever, keep to the middle, and do not drive over fast. 
 Where there are sidewalks, they are only about two feet 
 wide, and consequently almost useless. Florence is not 
 as cheerful a city outwardly, as Leghorn ; but it is the 
 residence of a great many Americans and Enghsh, be- 
 cause it is cheaper and they can here husband their re- 
 sources. At night Florence is badly lighted; and pe- 
 destrians, who are not keen-sighted, had better keep 
 to the house. 
 
 The famous Arno, which runs through the town, is 
 about as wide as the Seifie at Paris. It is not a deep 
 river ; and, as much of its water is diverted to mills, its 
 bottom is visible in various places. There is nothing 
 renaarkable in the appearance of its bridges, except that 
 some of them have shops upon them. Its banks are 
 lined by a strong stone wall of mason work, about four, 
 feet high, like that along the Seine. 
 
F L O B E N C E . 51 
 
 The women in the streets wear bonnets. The lower 
 orders sometimes wear the great Jlat, with an enormous 
 rim, such as is seen in summer on the heads of little 
 American girls, only much more extensive. The Italian 
 women are not as handsome as the French Their 
 forms are more thin and lathy. Priests with copious 
 broadcloth cloaks and broad brimmed hats, cocked up 
 at the sides, are numerous ; but soldiers are more so, 
 for squads of them are continually passing through the 
 streets. The police wear surtouts, with a white leather 
 shoulder belt, in which hangs a sword. Upon their 
 heads they wear a sort of cocked hat, shaded by hand- 
 some black plumes. On going to the police office you 
 can find the name and residence of every stranger in 
 Florence, furnished by your passport and your landlord 
 Strangers are looked after, here, very sharply; and my 
 blue spectacles are well known in Florence already. At 
 night the gates are shut at eight o'clock ; and if you 
 happen to be outside the walls, you are obliged to pay 
 money to get in. In fact, night or day, you have to pay 
 to get into all continental cities. Your passport and your 
 luggage combined, are nearly as expensive as a wife; 
 the consuls and the police seize the first at every stppi- 
 ping place ; four or five porters clutch the luggage ; and 
 all expect to be paid. 
 
 Beggars are not so numerous here as at Eome and 
 Naples, as I am informed, but they are troublesome 
 even here. They will hardly take no for an answer, 
 but continue to importune you. 
 
 Yellow is the prevailing color of the dwellings in 
 Florence. The lower windows are protected by a 
 frame work of iron bars, set about four inches apart. 
 Many of the houses along the Arno are let for lodg- 
 ings. These lodgings are now pretty full. A single 
 man can live cheaper here than at many other 
 European towns, but not so cheaply as I had been 
 told ; that is, if he live comfortably. He can get hia 
 meals at the Cafe Doney at a very fair price. The 
 cafes here are few and not equal to the French, I am 
 
52 FLORENCE. 
 
 staying at the " Grand Hotel de New York," kept by 
 a man who cannot speak Enghsh. The " master of' 
 the hotel," as he is called, is, like some of the keepers 
 of the public houses m New York, perfectly competent 
 in his own estimation. He is of a good figure, portly^ 
 requires much space to revolve in, and of course wears 
 hair under his nose. All the men here, except a very 
 few Americans and English, look as if some giant had 
 taken them by the legs and forced their heads into a 
 coal-scuttle. 
 
 The Hotel Neiu York, though destitute of soap in., 
 its bed rooms, like European hatels in general, is a 
 pretty good house... The halls and stone stairways are 
 large and well hghted- at night. There are, of course, 
 no sitting rooms or, public parlors. Two meals a day,, 
 as in France, is the fashion. Breakfast at half hast 
 nine or ten o'clock, or whenever you prefer, at twa 
 and a hdM2muh (a paul is ten cents) ; chops, potatoes, 
 eggs, tea, and bread and butter for twenty-five cents. 
 There is a public table at four, and one at six,, for five 
 j)auls — ^fifty cents. M.eats are all carved and slices 
 handed ro\md by the waiters, but you don't know what 
 they are. I have seen my old friend, Mutton Chop,, 
 once or twice; and,-. as, I -believe, have tasted Eoast 
 Beef, but cannot make my affidavit. There are some- 
 fifteen or twenty courses, including fruits, and the din- 
 ner consumes just one hour and a half For my room 
 I pay four pauh a day. Transient board thus costs at 
 this Hotel $8 a week. There may be fees to servants ^ 
 if so, I shall unquestionably ascertain the fact. 
 
 The weather here is chilly. An overcoat is, with 
 me, indispensable. " Sunny Italy," andeedl But it«s- 
 sunny in summer, as they tell me. 
 
 Nov. 11th. — Sunday. Started off alone to look for 
 the Due uo, or Cathedral, Its exterior excels, as I 
 think, that of Notre Dame at Paris. It is neither 
 sqtiare nor round in shape, but of irregular architect- 
 ure, like all these quaint, old churches. The front is 
 as plain as a barn, except that a few feet from one 
 
FLORENCE. 53 
 
 corner, rises from the ground a square,' high tower, 
 disconnected entirely with the church. Passing round 
 this, you see the great dome, and the indented, stono 
 pannelled, rounded rear and sides of the building. It 
 really looks grand. The interior is plain, though the 
 main body is of large arches, between which long 
 narrow windows of elegantly stained glass, (not hke 
 that of Grace Church, New- York,) let in a " dim, relig- 
 ous hght." I walked along over the stone pavement, 
 on which some people were kneeling, to the crovi^d 
 under the great dome, where services were being per- 
 formed before the altar. Although some chandeliers 
 and many long candles were burning, the darkly 
 painted ceihng of the great dome threw down a som- 
 bre shadow upon the people. Here was the God of 
 Fear^ not the God of Love. There was chanting and 
 droning ; a procession of priests, dressed in long black 
 gowns, over which was a laced " short-gown," about 
 as long as those worn by some of our females, occa- 
 sionally. Then a bell was rung, (sounding Hke the one 
 I used to hear when the canal packet boat used to 
 arrive at Syracuse,) and there were other performan- 
 ces. Soldiers with weapons were present, to guard 
 against disturbance. 
 
 I left the Cathedral, and crossing one of the bridges 
 of the Arno, sought and found the garden or grounds 
 attached to a palace, the name of which I have not yet 
 learned. The park was very extensive and handsome, 
 though much art was visible. Broad walks up and 
 down hill; trees forming an arcade, their branches 
 meeting at the top; ponds of water adorned with 
 marble statues of gods and goddesses, horses, sea-ani- 
 mals, fighting gladiators, &c., surrounded by a circle 
 of trees, whose branches were close together, and so 
 trimmed, that the foliage presented an entirely flat 
 surface. There were also terraces, from whence the 
 city and the blue hills could be seen; an amphitheatre, 
 in course of erection, in the centre of which stood a 
 email Egyptian obelisk. In summer this must be a 
 
 5* 
 
54 
 
 FLORENCE 
 
 delightful resort. It is quite as handsome, though not 
 so extensive as the grounds of Versailles. 
 
 Ee crossing the river, I walked through the city out 
 at one of the gates, until I came to a country road, 
 which was w^hite in color, like those of England and 
 France, being McAdamized with a similar stone. The 
 road was, of course, excellent. Some "fast crabs" 
 passed me at a rapid trot. 
 
 I found some fellows playing a game like our nine- 
 pins, rolling large balls to make them lie nearest small- 
 balls placed some yards distant. They would follow 
 their balls, and with much animation, evidently be^. 
 them in Italian to go to the right spot. This seemed 
 to be one of the Sunday amusem_.ents of tha. comment 
 people. 
 
 In America we liear exaggerated accounts of the licen-r 
 tiousness of the French and Italians. I speak of the 
 visible sinfulness. What takes place within doors, I 
 profess to know nothing of. All I do know, is this ; 
 that in Paris and in the Italian cities I have seen, licen- 
 tiousness does not meet the eye. No inducements are 
 held out to you in the streets at night, to stray from the 
 straight and narrow path. The presence of a watchful 
 police has doubtless some influence. Yet, in London,, 
 there is a good police, but you are often annoyed by 
 abandoned females. London is worse that way than 
 New York. I am told, also, by those that ought to 
 know, that French and Italian women in general,.-are 
 quite as virtuous as the women of England and Ame- 
 rica. Their manners are more free and easy; hence 
 their reputations suffer. 
 
 Kov. 28th. — In France, English sovereigns are taken- 
 freely at twenty-five francs, about $4 50 ,' but the best 
 money to bring to'Italy is the French Napoleon, which 
 passes for 35.} pauls, $3 55. As to getting acquainted- 
 with the silver which is here given you in change, I find'- 
 it impossible, even with the aid of one of John Thomp^- ■ 
 son's coin charts, which I purchased at the corner of 
 Broadway and Wall streets. The Italian coin is nearly ■ 
 
P L O R E N C E . BB. 
 
 all worn smootli, so it is by- the size alone of the piece 
 that I can estimate its value". There is a washed coin 
 which one is apt to take for silver ; and many counter- 
 feits on the more valuable pieces. 
 
 I w^ent this morning to a bridge over the Arno, which 
 is occupied by jewellers' shops. The display could not 
 compare with the same number of shops in Paris. There 
 is a bridge also occupied alone by butchers. 
 
 As I passed along the streets, I toot a look at the 
 vehicles, some of which are unique. There are a few 
 ponies here like those at Marseilles ; stout little fellows, 
 M'ho seem to carry one along as fast as could be done 
 by a full grown horse ; there are little carts drawn by 
 dogs; and many by small asses led by the halter. The 
 boys also have a velocipede with wheels as large as those 
 of an ordinary one horse waggon, with which they go' 
 at a spanking pace. There are many handsome priv-' 
 ate equipages here, belonging to the inhabitants and to 
 the Americans and..English. A good. carriage can be 
 hired for thirty cents ail homv 
 
 After an how's walk' al6ng the Arno towards-the dis- 
 tant hills, which seemed to walk away froin me, I retraced 
 ray steps through tlio town. The merchant peddlera 
 here push long carts before them through the streets, 
 on which are displayed their wares; dry goods, crockery, 
 &c. The chesnut roasters are seen at almost every cor- 
 ner, (there are a few in New York,) where they sell hot 
 Italian roasted chesnuts very cheap. This large chesnut 
 forms one of the courses at the table dlwte; they are 
 brought in hot upon a plate covered with u napkin. As 
 they provoke thirst, and the common wine is free to all 
 the guests, I would advise the landlords to omit them. 
 
 Passed a church which looked like an old, mouldering 
 prison, as many of the churches do here, on the outside.- 
 Within they are well preserved. Went in, saw here 
 and there a worshipper, alone and silent; with a priest 
 occasionally appearing in the distant aisles, crossing him- 
 self, or saying a prayer or two. The marble floor and, 
 part of the walls, were covered with the coats of arms 
 of those buried there. 
 
56 FLORENCE. 
 
 After refreshing the inner man at the Cafe Doney 
 with a little coffee and "bisqueet," I walked away to 
 one of the gates of the city, passed the railway station, 
 and went along the principal public drive, extending for 
 two or three miles, and bordered by tall trees. A cold 
 autumnal wind came down from the hills on my right, 
 and the leaves fell thick and fast. On my left, were 
 lawns, surrounded by trees. The distant bells of the 
 city, and sweet sounding ones they are, were ringing 
 their chimes; which I believe they do on some days every 
 hour. I reached the end of the drive, and came upon 
 the Arno, which is here quite as wide as the Erie Canal, 
 and just as "raging." Along the river I returned towards 
 the city. The sun was setting, and for the first time I 
 watched an Italian sunset. I have seen the thing just aa 
 well done by our sun in America, though I must confess 
 that the twilight here continues longer than with us. Up 
 and down across the beautiful twilight sky, a row of 
 slender poplars, planted along the opposite bank of the 
 river, was drawn with their taper tops pointing heaven- 
 ward. As I walked on, I saw enclosures of shrubbery 
 and trees on my left hand ; the trunks of many of the 
 high trees enveloped in a thick green mantle of climbing 
 plants. 
 
 It was getting late in the day when I reached the gate, 
 and carriages returning from their afternoon drives made 
 me hug the wall, for there were no sidewalks. 
 
 In a day or two I purpose to give you a notice of 
 some of the galleries of sculpture and painting. My 
 stay in Florence will not be long. If you hear of any 
 invalids recommended to come here by their physicians, 
 tell them to go to Naples. This city is too cold for 
 them. 
 • •• • » «*••• 
 
 • • •'• * *•*• 
 
 A letter from Florence^ dated about the 1st Dec, 
 never reached the publisher. As the writer preserved 
 Bto notes of his carelessly written journal, he is unable 
 
FLORENCE. 5f 
 
 to give a particular statement of tlie contents of the 
 missing letter. 
 
 It spoke of the Grand Duke's Palace, where is a 
 collection of Paintings, Statues and other works of art. 
 A large blue vase, some eight or ten feet high, was 
 thought beautiful. A mosaic table, on which appeared 
 to lie a small map of Florence and part of a torn letter,. 
 was observed. The letter and map he attempted ta 
 take in his hand, the illusion was so perfej3t. There 
 were many other fine things in this Palace. Som^Q^ 
 persons consider the collection of paintings to be the 
 best in the^ world. The floors of the rooms were of 
 inlaid; polished wood ; quite smooth and slippery. The, 
 exterior of the building is like a Penitentiary. This is 
 the Pitti Palace. The gardens attached to it, are verj^ 
 fine, and are spoken of elsewhere, . 
 
 Near the square where stands the Post office, is a._ 
 gloomy old Palace, once occupied by the Medici, I,, 
 believe. From the vicinity of this, a gallery of Paint-. 
 ings and Sculpture e^^tends round three sides of a square^. 
 In this . collection is- preserved the celebrated ancient, 
 piece of sculpture called the "Venus de Medici — from, 
 having been discovered or purchased by the Medici 
 family. It represents a naked female, pretty, and of a 
 light, delicate form, who stands as a naked woman^ 
 naturally would — in a modest and shrinking attitude. 
 This and the Apollo Belvidere at Rome, are considered 
 by artists as the two most perfect specimens. of sculpture 
 in. the world. The Venus mmj be handsomer than. 
 Powers' G-reek Slave; and it «i«?/.be handsomer than, 
 anything in marble that I have yet seen; but I beg leave 
 to express the opinion that I was considerably disap-, 
 pointed. 
 
 In the same room are the "Wrestlers;" and the 
 "Slave Whetting a Knife;" both of ancient date and of 
 great merit. In other rooms are paintings and a variety .- 
 of marbles. Among the latter was a bust of Julius 
 Caesar, with a small cramped head and face, not near sa 
 good looking as Andrew Jackson. There were also.. 
 
SB F I S A . 
 
 busts of some Roman Emperors and Generals; and of 
 some celebrated Greeks; most of whom had animal 
 necks and heads, betokening sensuality. 
 , In the square before the Medici Palace, are several 
 groups of statuary, some of which are of colossal size. 
 
 At the Academy of Arts (as I think it is called) are 
 some paintings of merit, and some very handsome mod- 
 ern statuary. One or two of the marble female figures 
 there, I like better than the Venus de Medici ; and had 
 I been alone, I should have kissed them. Couldn't 
 help it! 
 
 I visited a Mosaic Manufactory and saw the slow, 
 toilsome process of the work. Also many finished 
 specimens of tables, &c., &c., on which appeared to lie 
 musical instruments, boquets of flowers, &c. ; or on 
 which were depicted vases, birds, butterflies and other 
 objects, all most exquisitely wrought. These tables 
 cost enormous prices, and are seldom seen out of pala- 
 ces. I saWj likewise, a large collection of polished 
 pieces of marble, &c., of many different colors and 
 shades, ranged in order upon the shelves and ready to 
 be used by the workmen. 
 
 Small mosaic pins and other ornaments, are chiefly 
 made at Rome; which is as famous for that branch of 
 the work, as Naples is for the coral and lava ornaments. 
 
 On my way from Florence to Leghorn, I thought it 
 worth while to stop at Pisa to see the famous leaning 
 toiver. As I entered one of the gates of the city, an 
 ofiicer of the customs came up to the carriage which 
 had brought me from the railway station, and made 
 some remark about my baggage, to which he pointed. 
 ^'■No comprehendez,'''' said I — ^but to what language my 
 words belonged, I could not tell. The oflScer smiled 
 and allowed me to pass. 
 
 Pisa is situated on the Arno, and was once a place of 
 considerable importance, though now partially deserted 
 and with grass growing in its streets. It has a yellow 
 
LEGHORN. ^» 
 
 appearance, and is not unlike Leghorn and Florence. It 
 swarms with beggars, who annoy you every moment 
 you pause in your walk. I got a man to show me to the 
 leaning tower, which he did; but judge of my surprise 
 when I saw before me a tower about as high as a three- 
 story house, and leaning slightly from the perpendicular 
 in consequence of a defective foundation. I was at once 
 thrown oflf of my centre of gravity, and indulged in a 
 satirical laugh. The beggars crowded around me , and 
 a man coming towards me with a large key in his hand, 
 signified that he was anxious to shew me the interior of 
 the cathedral which stood near. I declined in the most 
 brief and sententious manner, and liberally cursed the 
 whole crowd. Hurrying back to the coffee house I had 
 eeen on my way, I endeavored to obtain some refresh- 
 ment. The landlord could not understand me, but ho 
 handed me his bill of fare, which Jcould not understand. 
 An English gentleman present, politely offered his serv- 
 ices as interpreter, and I procured my victuals. This 
 business dispatched, walked through the town by the 
 river, near the stone wall of which, groups of beggars 
 were sitting. Saw the Grand Duke's carriage — an open 
 one, with four horses and postilions, — standing before 
 a plain, low house which he inhabits while here ; and 
 met crowds of priests — as I took them to be by their 
 dress — thirty-two of them in one squad, followed by a 
 number of young men, students of divinity, perhaps. 
 
 In a few hours afterward, I had quitted the desolate 
 and melancholy city of Pisa, and was on my way by the 
 train to Leghorn. 
 
 Leghorn, Dec. bth — This is decidedly a pleasanter 
 town than any I have yet seen in Italy. The streets 
 are wider, and they have more open squares where the 
 sunlight can get in. Along the shore of the sea, outside 
 the walls, is a public walk, situated somewhat like the 
 Battery at New York, though without such fine scenery 
 or trees. To your right as you walk along the Medi- 
 terranean, lies the port where the ships are at anchor^ 
 and further on, stands a lighthouse. 
 
60 CIVITA VECCJIIA. 
 
 I joined two other persons, British subjects, who AvefO 
 going to Ecme, and together "we proceeded to the office 
 of the French steamer, Languedoc, where we were ask- 
 ed forty francs each for a twelve hours' voyage to Oivi- 
 ta Vecchia. We offered twenty-five francs each, which 
 the agent refused; but as there was a SiciUan steamer 
 to sail, and we had started for its office, the French 
 agent sent a boy after us and accepted our offer. One 
 of our party spoke French, else we should have had to 
 employ a commissioher. 
 
 We left Leghorn at 5 p. m., the sea not being at all 
 rough, and the moon giving us a pleasant light after we 
 had parted with the sun. I hoped to see Bonaparte's 
 Island of Elba, but we were not near enough. Corsica 
 too, was still farther away. We had many passengers 
 on board, some of whom had been so unfortunate as to 
 take places to jMaples, where there is ten days' quaran- 
 tine. Had they taken tickets for Civita Vecchia, they 
 Would haye gOiie fouhd by the way of Rome, but now 
 their passports would only allow them to land at 'Naples. 
 We reached cui- port at six in the niorning, where we 
 were kept until half-past nine before we were allowed 
 to land. A policiaman came on board with the list of 
 passengers, which he attempted to read aloud, but made 
 queer work of it. The second name was Sniitlt, but he 
 bawled out Mr. SJiimmy ! _ 
 
 Dec. 6th. — We had a hard time of it with the differ- 
 ' ent sets of porters and rogues that insisted on aiding us 
 with our luggage, step by step, to the custom house ; 
 and at the latter place there was great trouble and de- 
 lay* Our passports, too, had been given up at Leghorn . 
 and were now at the police office at Civita Vecchia. "I 
 here paid on mine^$l 40. Our consuls charge nearly 
 _twice as much as the English. We had a good break- 
 fast and got the diligence started at half-past twelve for 
 Rome. There wore several dilige?ices, as the Sicilian 
 'steamer had also arrived. The postilions looked like 
 ^brigands; in fact, they are often in league with them. 
 Our road, which was McAdamized and in pretty 
 
ROME. 6r 
 
 'gbod order, ran along the sea-coast for twenty or thirty 
 miles. The air was mild and balmy; the weather has, 
 in truth, been pleasant ever since I left Florence, At 
 every change the postilions would come and beg of the 
 passengers. When approaching Rome, the road left 
 the sea, and became very hilly. The whole journey of 
 fifty miles shewed us a barren country, thinly populated, 
 and worn out. Desolation broods over the land; the 
 people are rogues, beggars, and'^priests. 
 
 At ten at night we reached the gates of Eome, where 
 there was more delay with the -passports. The dili- 
 gence set us down at its own office ; there was not a 
 single" carriage to be got ; our luggage was placed upon 
 hand-carts, and we followed on foot through the dirty, 
 nasty, muddy streets of Modern Eome, until we reached 
 •the Ilotel Minerve. 
 
 Rome, Dec. 1th. — E.ome has rung in my ears since 
 childhood, and nowlamiiait! It seems an illusion. 
 But there are two Romes; one exalted in the air, with 
 high yellow buildings and dirty streets, without side- 
 Walks ; the other prostrate on the earth, still visible, 
 iike a wounded warrior resting on his arm. 
 
 My companions wished fii'st to see St. Peter's church. 
 We took the commisioner of the hotel, who cannot speak 
 English, but understands French, and walked away to 
 the "yellow Tiber," so 'famous in history. It is a small 
 etream, and its color is precisely like that of a puddle 
 by the roadside whefe the ducks and geese have been 
 paddUng. The bridge we crossed was mostly built by 
 the Romans ; it led to the castle of St. Angelo, as it is 
 now called ; a retind massive edifice, built for Adrian's 
 tomb. It is now a fortress. Onward through the mud- 
 dy streets we trudged until we saw St. Peter's. We 
 entered a square, upon each side of which stands a col- 
 onnade, in the shape of a crescent. In the centre of the 
 fiquare was an Egyptian obelisk, without hieroglyphics, 
 bnt with a cross upon its summit. Passing this, we as- 
 
 6 
 
62 ROME. 
 
 cendedthe steps in front of St. Peter's. The first view 
 of the outside seems to extort this exclamation from all 
 beholders — Is that St. Peter's!" I was terribly disap- 
 pointed. The front is square and yellow, with statues 
 ranged along the roof; and it seems much smaller than 
 you had any idea of. You enter the yellow pile and 
 iind a large room so broken up by arches and projec- 
 tions, that you recognize nothing so very vast and grand, 
 especially if you have seen other cathedrals. Yet every- 
 thing is of colossal size, but so well proportioned, and in 
 such harmony with the whole, that it does not seem so. 
 You see, at a few paces distant, a lion, apparently of the 
 Fize of life ; yet on going up to him, you observe that 
 he is nearly three times the natural bulk of the beast. 
 A little way off is one of those little, fat, squab angels, 
 that you see in pictures ; as you approach you find him 
 a large, portly youth, with his arms as big as your leg. 
 All this is the effect of consummate art, possessed by 
 that wonderful genius, Michael Angelo. There are 
 many large pictures in St. Peter's, nearly all of them 
 composed of mosaic work, costing with the other orna- 
 ments, millions of dollars. There is also much fine 
 sculpture. There is a canopy, supported by twisted 
 bronze columns, the material of which was taken from 
 one of the old Roman temples.* There are also some 
 elegant columns of different colored marble. A bronze 
 Ptatue, said to be that of Jove, and brought from the 
 Capitoline hill, sits here ; and I saw several of the lower 
 order of people prostrate themselves before it. His 
 head was sawed off, and one representing St. Peter's 
 placed upon him, and he now sits for that Saint. His 
 right foot is worn half away by the kisses of his faithful 
 admirers ; and when the leg shall be all gone, they will 
 perhaps attack the other. Sensible Catholics, of course, 
 smile at this ridiculous humbug; but if it makes the 
 ignorant better, let them kiss away to their heart's coo- 
 
 • The vPantheon. 
 
ROME. 63 
 
 tent. Saint Peter's chair is said to be enclosed in a 
 gilded chair over the altar, supported by two colossal 
 figures. When you get under the dome and look up, 
 you see that its extremity is at a great height. Per- 
 mission to ascend there has first to be obtained before 
 you can go up. I intend to apply for it by-and-by. The 
 interior of Saint Peter's is kept in such neat order, that 
 it looks new and clean. It is one of the wonders of the 
 world ; but I only wonder that the world should wonder 
 at it. Its exterior is less striking than that of St. Paul's 
 Sit London;' and none but an English snob, or one of 
 our " upper ten" would think of comparing it with the 
 Duomo at Florence. 
 
 " Why is it," asked I, "that people will return and' 
 tell such falsehoods about what they have seen in Eu- 
 Tope ?" 
 
 " Because," replied one of the party, " they do not 
 like to confess that they have come so far to be hum- 
 bugged. You will be slow to confess it yourself." 
 
 '■ No, I won't ! I will give them my impressions just 
 as-they come to me. I don't care who differs with me." 
 
 And so I ivill give them ; and so -I dorCt care. When ■ 
 you come out of St. Peter's you observe on your left'a' 
 high and extensive pile of buildings rising above the 
 semi-circular colonnade. It is plain in appearance and 
 is the Pope's palace — the Vatican. It is there where 
 he keeps his 'bulls.' We ascended the marble flights of. 
 steps, passing the guards, who are dressed as grotesque-- 
 ly as clowns in a circus, and tried to enter the galleries 
 of paintings and sculpture, but it was too late,' it being 
 three o'clock. We looked down into the court-yard of 
 the palace and saw several six horse carriages and some 
 troops of horse come in. The Pope was going to 
 church. The horsemen drew up in divisions: the 
 French by themselves. French soldiers are seen in 
 plenty here ; and are scattered all along the road from 
 Civita Vecchia. The Pope got into his carriage; the 
 cardinals into theirs; and as the vehicles passed under ua 
 I caught a glimpse of " his Holiness" making some sort 
 
64 
 
 ROME. 
 
 of motion. I was told be was giving us bis blessing; 
 I have felt very well ever since. 
 
 The Pope's dominions are under the protection of ■ 
 France, as Tuscany is.mider that of Austria, 
 
 On returning to.our Hotel we passed the Pantheon 
 which is in better condition than any other relic of an- 
 tiquity. You have doubtless seen prints of it in Amer- 
 ica, with its front of well proportioned columns and its 
 rounded sides. It looks, like every thing else,, much 
 better on paper than in real life ; for it is dingy and 
 black with age. Having been erected "to all the Gods,."" 
 it escaped destruction when other edifices were destroy- 
 ed by the conquerors of Kome. It is now fitted up . 
 within as a church. I have not yet entered it It i» , 
 surrounded by. modern buildings. 
 
 Saw the column of Antojiimis Pius looming up in 
 the' air. It is a noble column,^ though not remarkable- 
 foi' its height. At its. foot,, a fellow had a booth where 
 he sold combs, pins^ &c. It is also surrounded by 
 modern Rome. 
 
 The ancient corso is now one of the finest streets of 
 the modern town. It is narrow ; paved hke the rest of 
 the town with small pieces of brick or stone about three 
 inches square;, and has a sidewalk two and a half feet 
 wide-. Add to this that it is dirty, and you have some 
 idea of the "Eternal City" in the rainy weather, which 
 now prevails. I have not been troubled by wet weather 
 since I came to Europe until now^ 
 
 There are a number of krge buildings in J^me, the 
 entire material for which was taken from the Colisexiia^ 
 The modern Goths and Vandals I 
 
 When the weather becomes favorable, ,1 shall take 
 the earliest opportunity, of visiting the Ruins. Some 
 of them are at a distance from..the city. 
 
 One of our party having a nephew in college here 
 under the control of the priests, wished to see him, so- 
 we waited at the door of the college .until, the, .uncle 
 came out. He had been trying to persuade his nephew, 
 who is from Ireland, to abandon his intentioa.of 
 
ROME. G5 
 
 becoming a priest; but the young man said he must 
 persevere in the course he had chosen, else he could 
 not attain the end he had in view. The uncle said he 
 supposed they had promised to make his nephew a 
 cardinal. The young man is entitled to $70,000 on 
 coming of age. The priests now take great interest 
 in him. By and by, they wiU take both principal and 
 interest. 
 
 Dec. 8ih. — This is a fast or a feast day, I know riot 
 which. Every thing is shut except the churches and 
 the poor peoples' mouths. The weather is still moist; 
 and dirty Rome eclipses New York. I have employed 
 some of my time in removing from the Hotel de Minervc, 
 where I had to ascend eight flights of stone stairs to 
 my room, to the Hotel cVAmerique, where I go up only 
 one. Near by is a reading room, where are American 
 and English news.'apers. In England, at a hotel, you 
 may see two or three newspapers; in France, one or 
 two ; and in Italy none, or one. In America, where 
 you are not obliged to stoop every moment to avoid 
 having your hat knocked off by a musket hanging 
 upon a soldier's shoulder, you may see newspapers by 
 the dozen at every hotel. As is sometimes remarked 
 by the editorial fraternity, " comment is unnecessary!" 
 
 Dec. ^th. — Weather more promising. "Went to the 
 Vatican. In the first hall was a large collection *of 
 broken statues, capitals and fragments of columns; 
 Bome perfect statues and vases, together with other 
 relics of antiquity. In the other rooms which I entered 
 were many statues and other sculptures, some in the 
 form of animals, sarcophagi, &c. ; there was also a great 
 number of busts of the great men of Greece and 
 Rome; but whether good likenesses or no, the writer 
 is unable tosa}''. The original Laocoon and the Aioollo 
 Belvidere are in the Vatican. These two, with the 
 Venus de Medici, at Florence, are the admiration of 
 the critical world. A copy of the Laocoon is at Flor- 
 ence. Aioollo stands with his left arm extended and 
 drapery hanging from it ; his right arm hangs down 
 
 6* 
 
66 ROME. 
 
 away from his side. He is set firmly on one foot, the 
 toes of the other merely touching the ground. The 
 attitude is like that of one who has just discharged an 
 arrow and is looking enrnestly to see what execution 
 it has done. He is a light and graceful figure ; — but 
 to come to the sum total, (although I show my igno- 
 rance thereby,) I have seen other statues that, to rae> 
 appeared more beautiful. Some of the sculptures in 
 the Vatican are in dark marble. There is one, of a 
 lion, Avhich looks like that " roaring " fellow, who is 
 continually going about to " devour somebod}'." The 
 collection of sculpture in the Vatican is, I believe, the 
 most valuable one in the world. I forgot to mention, 
 that many of the antique statues in this- and other gal- 
 leries, having lost hands, feet or arras, the loss has 
 been supplied by modern artists. There are specimens 
 of old mosaic iioors in the Vatican, which are very 
 curious. 
 
 Three o'clock- having arrived, the galleries were 
 closed and we went into St. Peter's. Companies of 
 soldiers were being drilled in front of the church. I 
 saw several common looking persons in the church, 
 employed in kissing Jove's foot ; and one poor little 
 boy, no-t being able to reach so high, lifted himself .up 
 by the foot of the statue and kissed it fervently. He 
 thought it was .St'. Peter. 
 
 Left my companions and started for my hotel. Got 
 lost, as a matter.x)f course ; came upon that long mud- 
 puddle, the " yellaw Tiber. '^' ■ Strayed through the 
 streets looking at the dwellings, with their lower wind- 
 ows ban-ed like those of a prison, at the different 
 dresses of the soldiers, priests and people The French 
 soldiers are easily distinguishable by their dress ,• they 
 are fond of red irowsers. Saw some priests in light 
 blue gowns, some in bright scarlet, and s6me in white ; 
 but the majority are dressed in black, with bands 
 hanging from each shoulder, to the ground. Dirty 
 monks, with hoods and cowls, are common. The dresa 
 of the Italian people in general, whether city or country, 
 
0:iyJeniiirj;fe&ChaplTri,6;i.CheajGide,*GJraldou.bovh\ctGdlcric"W^ 
 
I 
 
K O M E- . GZ 
 
 is not unlike ours ; but cloaks are more generally worn* 
 I miss those romantic dresses which we see at our - 
 theatres, and which are represented as belonging to : 
 Italy at the present day. 
 
 Passed two or three obelisks covered with hiero- . 
 glyphics, and surmounted by the catholic cit)SS. The . 
 Egyptian obelisks are more slender and not so tall as I 
 had supposed. After you have seen one, the rest do 
 not strike you as remarkable. It is so with "sights" 
 in^general, in a great measure. 
 
 The obelisk in the Piazza del Popolo having caught 
 my eye at a distance, I made towards it, and when 
 there, knew my w^ay home. Rome is a very diiEcult 
 place to find one's way in. The streets are narrow 
 and crooked, and appear to run in every direction, but 
 the right one. 
 
 The Hotel cC Amerique is frequented mostly by 
 Americans and English. The landlord and one or two 
 of the waiters can speak English. This is a luxury in 
 Italy. Even the "commissioner" at the Hotel Miner ve 
 could speak nothing but French and Itahan. My 
 present hotel is very well kept; breakjEast. when you 
 choose; and table d hole . oi half past five., Rome is as 
 biidly off for soap.SiS Italy .and France in general. You 
 must bring yjom* own.. B.ut. both France and Italy 
 excel us in making bread. It is strange that in our 
 country, where such excellent flour is produced, good 
 bread is seldom found. We like soft bread, and hot 
 bread. Both are the originators of half our constipa- 
 tion and dyspepsia. Here the bread is baked all 
 through. How it is done, I am unable to say. But 
 it is sweet, palatable, -good and digestible. The butter 
 here is without salt, and generally sweet. 
 
 A Hotel onthe American plan in England, France 
 or Italy, with sitting rooms, &c , would be successful. 
 One hke the Prescott House, New York, where the 
 floors of two rooms alone cost $14,000, would attract 
 the attention of all Europe. They know nothing of 
 the style and splendor of our hotels ; but, they .beat jis ; 
 in cookery. 
 
68 ROME. 
 
 After being several days in an Italian city, you are 
 obliged to apply to the police for permission to reside 
 in the place, and a carte of sojourn is given you for the 
 required time. Here in Eome we are told that we are 
 in quarantine for thirteen days, because we came from 
 Civita Vecchia; so as I arrived on the 6th, I can't leave 
 Eome till the 19th. They are afraid of cholera from 
 France; so they admit. us into the heart of the city and 
 put us in quarantine ! This is funny Oar passports 
 here are to be left wdth the police until the day of our 
 departure ; aud cartes of sojourn wall be given us, so 
 that we may be alloivcd to remain in a quarantine 
 which we cannot leave \ The probability is, that this 
 quarantine is made at the request of the King of 
 Naples; whom may Heaven preserve from the cAo/era, 
 so that he may meet a more fitting punnishment for 
 his cruelties — a rope. 
 
 Dec. X^th. — Took a " commissioner" and a carriage 
 and went ruin hunting. The guide charges one dollar 
 per day ; the driver forty cents the first hour, and 
 30 cents each successive hour. Nearly all the ruins 
 seen to-day are surrounded by mode n Eome. Some 
 of them were beyond the walls. 
 
 Column of Antoninus Pius. — A statue of St. Paul is 
 upon the summit. I think that the cannon column in 
 Paris is modeled after this pillar. - 
 
 Temple of Antoninus Pius. — A row of columns filled 
 in between with modern mason work. , The columns 
 support a great mass of stone which was part of the 
 original roof , The building is now the Custom House. 
 
 Trajan''s Column. — St. Peter stands upon the sum- 
 mit. At, the foot of the pillar are a number of stumps 
 of broken columns, being part of the ancient temple of 
 Paulus Emihus. One of the stumps projected above 
 the modern surface and so discovered the remains of 
 the temple. Modern Eome is ten to fifteen feet higher 
 than ancient Eome, which has been partly covered by 
 decaying matter and rubbish. Near Trajan's Column 
 is a tower, now forming a part of a monastery, on.. 
 
ROME. 69 
 
 which Nero is said to have- played his fiddle while 
 Rome was burnuig. 
 
 Temple of J>lerva. — Three columos and-part of the 
 Willi remain. Old and decaying. There were holes 
 where the metal clamps had been taken out. 
 
 Temple of Pallas.— Tvjo fine columns and some rub? • 
 bish are left. 
 
 Ro'inan Forum. — Surrounded by modern buildings. 
 Arch of Septimus Severus, half of it below the surface 
 of modern Rome. Covered with sculptures and mould- - 
 ering. The arch itself is not large. Under it are the 
 remains of the Roman pavement ; rough stones, a foot 
 square,.- Temple of Vespasian^ or of Co7icord. Six or 
 eight columns remain, and support a fragment of thj 
 roof. Temple of Jupiter Tonatis. Two or three 
 columns upright. The old Capitol. A plair^iWall^ 
 twenty or thirty feet, upon which is erected a raoderp.^ 
 building. If the Roman Capitol covered no more 
 ground, it could not have been very imposing. On the 
 Qther side. of. the. Capitol is an equestrian statue of 
 Marciis Aurelius. On each side of a gate, at the top 
 of a descent, stand statues of Castor and Pollux, with 
 their horses ; all of them dark, spotted, and very 
 ancient. A little to the left are the remains of the 
 Tarpeian rock. Much of it has been cjit away to 
 build with ; a mass of the rock now forms part of the. 
 foundation of a modern house ; and that which is left, 
 is but a few feet high. Down this rock, many con- 
 demned were thrown, in old Roman times. Temple 
 of Antonius and Faustina. The front of columns 
 remains ; a church stands behind it. Temple of Her' 
 cules. Part of the wall remains and composes a por- 
 tion of a modern church. Temple of- Jupiter Stator. 
 Three columns now stand. The Palatine Hill, with 
 ruins upon it, is close at hand. The hill is not much 
 of a hill 
 
 Nearly all the above are near the site, of the, old Fo- 
 rum: 
 
 Temple of Romulus and Remus.— rlts remains now 
 form part of a church. 
 
70 K O M E . 
 
 Temple of Peace. — Three large, grand arches, arid 
 part of the back wall remain. The roof is broken away 
 and grass is growing high upon the wall and arches. 
 The remains of this Temple are highly ornamented with 
 Bculpture. It is an imposing ruin. 
 
 Arch of Titus. — The top is of modern date. The 
 ancient part is full of sculptures. The arch is not large. 
 The road runs under it. 
 
 Arch of Constantine. — This is very well preserved. 
 It is also handsomely sculptured. Bonaparte's Archofi 
 Triumph, at Paris, was modeled after this; but it is- 
 larger and more grand than the Roman one. 
 
 CcBsar^s Palace. To the right of the arch stand 
 some old walls, being part of Csesar's Palace. I did 
 not inspect them closely, for I was near the Coliseum. 
 
 To the left are the remains of the walls of the Tem- 
 ple of Venus and Romulus with a church behind them. . 
 
 The Flavian Amphitheatre ov the Coliseu?7i. This,, 
 the grandest relic of antiquity in Europe, was now be— 
 fore me. You get a very good idea of the Coliseum 
 from the prints of it common in America. For a par- 
 ticular account of it, you must consult ancient history ; : 
 I. only attempting, in a few words, to give you an idea 
 of its present appearance from my own observation, as 
 I read none of the guide books. The Coliseum is of 
 stone and brick, several rows of arches, arch above arch, 
 supporting the different galleries, where sat the specta- 
 tors. Quite a number of these arches are of modef n ■. 
 date, as is a high wall attached to the amphitheatre, for 
 the edifice has been crumbling and falling, and needs 
 these supports. There are the tops and capitals of. 
 some large, broken columns, which supported some part, 
 of the structure'. I believe the Coliseum never had a 
 roof, but was open to the sky. The circular wall is 
 higher on one side than the other, a part having fallen 
 or been thrown down and carried away to the city for 
 building material. There are many holes in the outside 
 wall, where were the clamps to hold the stones together; 
 the metal being taken away by the barbarians ; partly 
 
ROME. 71 
 
 ^for its value, and partly in the hope that the building 
 ■i^would be destroyed thereby. I walked among the 
 arches, looked through their long vistas, and up at the 
 grass and weeds growing high in the air upon their 
 eummits; then into the grand circle of the arena, down 
 upon which the blue sky and its fleecy clouds reflected 
 a pleasant light upon the grass-covered earthen floor. 
 The earth has formed over the old ground floor, which 
 ■is now ten feet or more below the surface. It was over 
 this ancient earth that the " beasts of Eome" enjoyed 
 ;their "sports and pastimes." Here they looked down 
 with delight upon the struggle beneath. The shouts 
 of gla'diators, the screams of wild beasts, and the groans 
 of martyred Christians, filled the "noble Roman" with 
 delight. Why grieve over the fall of a nation who 
 -gloated on human misery ; and whose greatness was 
 ^built up with the ruins of conquered nations, cemented 
 with tears? The steps by which Rome ascended to 
 '" glory," seem to those afar off hke a ladder reaching 
 =to Heaven ; and they who pass upward, appear as an- 
 gels. But Rome is fallen, thank Grod ! not by any spe- 
 -ciial act of Heaven ; for she necessarily carried in her 
 ■^course the seeds of decay ; they have produced their 
 rank grass, their thorns and brambles, and now I gaze 
 upon them without a sigh. 
 
 Near the Cohseum, on a small hill, stands a single 
 ■cypress tree, shaped like a poplar, — looking at the ruins. 
 
 I saw the caves where prisoners were confined ; and 
 the lanes under ground through which the wild beasts 
 were introduced into the arena. 
 
 Around the grand circle of the amphitheatre, are 
 ranged boxes about the size of sentry boxes, in which 
 are paintings on bible subjects, protected by wire gauze.' 
 In the centre of the arena stands a cross, which the 
 catholics kiss as they enter. There is preaching here 
 every Friday. 
 
 As a sample of the Flavian Amphitheatre, I have 
 ,1?rought away a small piece of loose brick ; in my pock. 
 
72 ROME. 
 
 et, not in my hat. The ancient bricks were thinner and 
 longer than ours. 
 
 Nero's Palace^ called the "Grolden House of Nero," 
 is near. Many valuable sculptures were found here. 
 Several broken arches of brick, topped with grass, now 
 remain. They have a dark and dungeon-like appear- 
 ance. The ^^custode'\ lit a torch upon the end of a pole 
 to show the guide and myself the paintings upon the 
 arches. 
 
 Less ancient was the church of Ht. John Lateran^ 
 where the commissioner now took me. It was erected 
 by Constantine, and is a fine old church. Some of the 
 columns are of bronze and were taken from the Temple 
 of Jupiter. A bronze door came from the Baths of Ca- 
 racalla. The old mosaic pavement is cm'ious. "Do 
 you see," said my guide, " all that gold on the roof? 
 Ah, so many poor starve !" The contrast between gold 
 and marble churches, and the herds cif pallid beggars, 
 -is indeed awful. 
 
 The Lateran Palace is attached to the church of St 
 iFohn. 
 
 " How many churches are there in E.ome," enquired 
 I. " Most five hundred ;" said the guide. " More aa 
 christians. Too many. Not support the poor." 
 
 We had met during the day whole droves of priests, 
 \vhich made the commissioner alwaj^-s shrug his should- 
 ers and vent &n ejaculation. There are many here of 
 his mind, but they dare say but little. 
 
 We saw many obelisks in our round ; nearly all of 
 them with the cross upon their summits. 
 
 Near the Lateran church was a building in which 
 was a stone stairway said to be the one up which our 
 Saviour ascended before Pilate. It had been much 
 w^rn by the Jcnees of the believers, and was now cover- 
 ed with wood. Up this stair, upon their knees, two or 
 three women and a little girl were slowly ascending, 
 under the eye of an old priest who sat near. There ia 
 here a stone gateway said to have been one of the doora 
 of Pilate's house. 
 
ROME. 73 
 
 Temple of Venus, and Cvjnd. Very romantic names ; 
 but til old and broken walls make a shabby rain. A 
 churcli is built behind thein. 
 
 8a\v -jAx old Roiiiari well. Square in form. Part of 
 the walls of AiK-ient Rome now remain. They were of 
 brick. If'a bitteiing ram was too much for tliem, how 
 long- would they have stood before modern artillery? 
 Tiie gate uJi Appius Claudius was slsewn me. 
 
 Ttie Ronbua Aqueduct. A number of higli arches 
 ^ro still -tf> be seen, of this, the principal aqueduct. 
 
 Ar.'maantofa Ttov.ph ti ilf/^zc^Ta is visible. Saw 
 the se[)idchro of a Roman baker, ten feet sqnari'. It 
 d^splavi.'d some workmanship. His bread may havo 
 be.-'n '• s'nort weight." 
 
 Part of ihe interior of the church of San Lorenzo is 
 suppoi-ted by the colnmns of the Temple of Juno, wdiich 
 stood here. The cf.lumns arc bcanliful and in good 
 preservation. The capitals arc elegantly carved. Ha.li 
 the length of the ^columns is below the iloorof the church, 
 sta;idaig 0:1 tiie surf lec of the ancient earth. 
 
 In the churcli of St. Mary Maggiore arc many col- 
 •iimns, round and clean, which were brought from 
 Adi ian's Villa, and incorporated into this building. Tho 
 manger in which Jesus Christ was born is said to b^ 
 preserved under tho pavement of this church Tho 
 chnrch stands on the Esquilhie Hill ; not a very high 
 hill either, though celebrated. 
 
 D'ccLtia:i's Baths. Some of the brick walls are to 
 be seen. A church has been built out of part of tho 
 material. 
 
 On the Quirinal Hill is a modern garden where aro 
 to b;.' seen several enormous sculptured blocks of da.il: 
 stone, once forming part of the Temph of the t^nj!, 
 which stood here. The machinery by which thcs'j 
 masses were hoisted, must have been powerful. 
 
 Extensive remains of the Baths of Constantino a:o 
 also in this garden. 
 
 The above ruins arc scattered through modern Eonio 
 and its environs. 
 
 7 
 
tt ROME. 
 
 Dec. 1 Uh. — Last night a procession of priests dressed 
 in white and bearing torches, passed through the streets 
 singing a melancholy strtiin. A man folloAved bearing 
 a coffin upon his sbouldei". 
 
 Tliis hi Sunday. Went up to St. Peter's. A priest 
 was offifiating, and twenty or thirty people, mostly 
 women, were kneeling on the cold marble tioor. 
 
 As I cameout, I noticed the defect in the architecture 
 of St. Peter's which I have heard spoken of. The iront 
 of the building is too high ; you must be ten rods away 
 before 5'ou can see the dome. 
 
 AValked down the Coriso to Trajan's column Turned 
 to the left and arrived at a church. Went in and saW 
 Bevera! priests in the confessional boxes wiih long wands 
 by them. A poor w^oman and child came a.long; as 
 she kneeled down before one of the priests, he touched 
 her with his wand. The telegraphic blessing made her 
 happy, and she went on her way rejoicing. Why try 
 to convince her that she is the victim of delusion ? Let 
 her be happy. 
 
 Heard some ehanting, and looking through a glass 
 door into one of the chapels, saw eight or ten priests 
 in robes, chanting with the help of an organ. JBlack 
 gowns with white lace, short-gowns over them. One 
 or two came out and passed close to me. Looked in 
 their sleek faces ; not like those of the beggars outside! 
 Two or three friars were v\-alking about the church, 
 looking at the pictures. 
 
 Returned to the Piazza del Popolo, {Place or s^rfiare 
 cf Llie pzople^ and ascended by a winding road adorned 
 by statuary and cypress trees, to the jileasant ])rom- 
 enade and drive on Mount Pincie. Here are trees, 
 ehrubs and flowers; an obelisk, and marble busts of 
 celebrated men. Poses are now blooming here in beds 
 in the open air. This is the most pleasant report in 
 Rome, and is very fashionable. A fine view of city and 
 country is obtained from this hill ; and of the Piazza 
 del Popolo with its obelisk. Many priests are seen 
 "Walking lazily about here every day. The dome of St. 
 
ROME. 75 
 
 Peter's looms up before them as they lean upon the par- 
 apet wall; and don't each one of them wish he was 
 Pope! 
 
 Dec. [2th. — One of thepolice, a^e«f*arw€, was found 
 lying dead this morning by ttie column of Antonifius 
 Pius. A stiletto had been put into him. Two or 
 three months ago he killed a boy, in the performance 
 of his duty, as lie said. Italiin revenge is often slow, 
 but always sure. The eye of death has been on his 
 trail; last night it found all things convenient, and the 
 kinsman of the slaughtered boy got what the law denies 
 \\\m.-^ustice. The policeman was an oppressor of the 
 poor, and a man of bad character. 
 
 The use of the knife in Italy still continues. Rob-- 
 beries are frequent. Single gentlemen walking out to 
 the ruinSj have been eased of their purses. 
 
 I took at ten o'clock this morning the Commissioner 
 and a carriage and went after the ruins. 
 
 Interior of the PantJicon. It is of circular form, and 
 once had a bronze roof, which was taken away to make 
 the twisted columns in St. Peter's. The old pavement, 
 or floor of the temple, and the ancient columns, remain. 
 Around the walls are niches, where once stood statues 
 of " all the Gods." The old Roman doors of bronze 
 are still used in the ancient Pantheon, now a modern 
 church. This building, t\to thousand years old perhaps, 
 is the best preserved specimen of ancient architectur® 
 in the city. 
 
 Drove to the Arch of Janus with its four fronts — 
 four arches in one. In tolerable preservation, with its 
 has reliefs and sculptures. Here bulls were kept for 
 sacrifice. A small arch near by, marks the place where 
 the bulls were ofFered up. The arch itself is covered 
 with sculptures, shew-ing the way in which it was done. 
 
 Looked at a Poman sewer, two thousand four hund- 
 red years of age. In good condition. A spring of 
 crystal water which existed in ancient times, still pours 
 into it. 
 
 Ccssar^s Palace on the Palatine Hill. The remain- 
 
5^6 ROME. 
 
 jng walls, fragments of roof, &c., sliew that this palace 
 must have been extensive. It was built of brick ; and 
 commands a fine view. Down to the left stands the 
 Coliseum; and far distant the Sabine Mountains are 
 seen, dim and blue. The mountains of Tivoli and of 
 Tusculum are in front, fifteen or twenty miles distant. 
 To the right, near at hand, is the spot covered perhaps 
 by ten feet of modern earth, where the rape of the 
 Sabine women took place. The spot has been since; 
 used for a Jev,^ish burying ground. 
 
 The Temple of Apollo stands near Ca3sar's Palace ;. 
 that is, all that remains of it ; broken walls and roof. 
 It was struck with' lightning last year and part of it 
 thrown down. It was built of brick, with a coarse 
 mosaic work upon the roof. 
 
 Several artists were taking sketches upon tho hill. 
 An Englishman by the name of Mills, has purchased a 
 part of the Palatine Hill and erected a dwelling upon it,-. 
 
 The Avcntine Hill is not far off. Upon it i.ro three- 
 modern churches. 
 
 Baths of Caro.calla. These must have covered Cr- 
 large extent of ground. H^gh grass grown walls, and 
 lofty arches still remain. There was a large swimming 
 batti in this establishment, and a room in which gladi- 
 ators v;ere trained, A circus and amphitheatre were 
 attached to the baths. The buildings were of brick. 
 Some mosaic work, adorniog'^ the roof and floors, is still 
 to be seen. The roof was partly composed of lava, 
 Borne statues in bad order and other fragments, have 
 been found in the ruins. 
 
 A P^oman Sc^iZi/cVi?,.,, discovered in a modern garden 
 on a hill. Semicircular holes ranged in-order along 
 the face of v;alls, in Vvhich the urns containing the ashes 
 of the d^;iad \^cie placed, Many in^^^jrir- ions, taL'ols,.. 
 bas reliefs, &o., were found ii^re and have been set into 
 a modern vrail for the inspection of the curious. I 
 bought a Eoman sepulchral lamp here, made of clay,., 
 for forty cents. This, with some other trifles, will, 
 suffice for specimens of ancient Rome. 
 
ROME. 77 
 
 The Appian Way is now a road of the modern widlh^- 
 and at this time wet and muddy, although paved with 
 email stones. At a distance from Rome, the ancient 
 pavement still remains. I saw a specimen ; flat stones 
 of all sizes and not laid very close together. On each 
 side of the Appian Way are low walls, fencing in some 
 private gardens. 
 
 Turned into a by-road and reached the Temple of 
 Bacclms, a small square building with the columns 
 imbedded in the modern wall. The room within is 
 vaulted and not large. It is used as a church, and the 
 cathdic cross is visible. Some old vases found here 
 are placed along the wall. 
 
 Descending from the Temple to a vale from which 
 Eose a hill where was a handsome grove of small trees, 
 I was told that that was the " Sacred Wood." But 
 although it may have stood here, the Eomans never saw 
 these trees. Certainly not. 
 
 Turning to the left, I went down into the valley of 
 the Nynipli Egeijxi* As we approached her grotto, 
 — a natural arch or cave in the siile of a hill, at the 
 back of which the fountain poured its waters into a 
 basin, I saw a wild looking bull near by raise his head 
 and look at us very suspiciously. The guide seemed 
 uneasy and s^d that these bulls were dangerous if 
 appi'ouched too closely. To make the matter more 
 mteresting, a young bull lying in a niche by the fount- 
 ain of Egeira,' began- to bellow, at whiih the guide 
 remarked that it would be apt to bring the old fellow 
 upon us. I looked about for a tree, in case of neces- 
 sity, but all were too far off; and right against us was 
 a long high w;ill which we could not scale. I will see 
 the grotto, saidT, at any risk; so I ran hastily down 
 into it, and did not remain long. Coming out, the 
 guide an:l myself left the romantic valley at a quick 
 step. A Papal bull would not have moved me an inch. 
 
 Ivcsuming our carriage, we passed the ruins of a 
 
 *• Or Egeriai . 
 
tS ■ K O M K . 
 
 iem\:>le to Ro)/i:-!lus] and one to Remus. Dilapidated 
 fragments of walls alone ai'e left. 
 
 The Sepulchre of Cecilia Metella, is a small round 
 building with battlemented walls. It is in pretty good 
 preservation, and is an interesting obj.ect in the landtr 
 scape. It is of stone and brick. 
 
 The Pyramid of Cdius Cestitcs^ standing near one- 
 of the old gates of Rome, is of marble, now dark and 
 discolored. A part of it has been restored. It is a 
 small affair, though a pyramid; forty or fifty feet high,, 
 perhaps. At its foot was a drove of buiialoes,. who ar&- 
 used in this country, like oxen. They are not shaped 
 exactly like the American buffalo ; but the guide said 
 that they were SG.metimes dangerous. 
 
 We passed under the Eoman gate and entered a 
 ehurch, built on the site of the Temple of Frospcriite^. 
 some of the columns of which still stand within it. The- 
 pavement is of old Roman mosaic. 
 
 Ti-m'pte of Vesta. — A small circular building, sur- 
 rounded by twenty ancient columns, in pretty good- 
 condition. It is now a modern church. 
 
 Near it is the TetvpJa of Fortune., a square and not 
 large edifice with half columns, it is also a church. 
 
 Saw a part of the pavement of the Palatine bridge- 
 Like that of the old Appian Way. 
 
 The Theatre of Ma>-cellus is round, l::rgo and liigh. 
 Its old Roman facie is intcres.ing. Under it are shops 
 of various kinds. Within, it has been fitted up as the- 
 residence of some Prince or other. 
 
 Near this is the Gate (f Oitavia, v/hose brick walls- 
 now remain. 
 
 Wo now entered the Jeus'' Quarter ^ where the Ro- 
 man toga and the s:TndaJ or the buskin were not exposed 
 for sale, but modern "old clo" in great variety. Some; 
 Jewish women were sitting in the street before their 
 shop doors, engaged in sewing. We did not stop to 
 trade v.dth them, but rodo hoiiio. 
 
 Thus, with a guide a-ul carriage, I have in two d-^ya 
 seen the principal relics of ancient Rome, in the form. 
 
K O M H . 
 
 f^ 
 
 of ruins out of doors. They are more scanty, and not 
 so well preserved as I had imagined. Many of the 
 temples were small, and would not suffice for the pres- 
 ent city of 170,000 inhabitants; much less, as one 
 would suppose, for old Rome with its millions of people. 
 
 There are other ruins at Tivoll, eighteen miles off, 
 but it is best to go with a party to that place. It is 
 the work of a whole day. I shall probably be able to 
 give you a short notice of them in a.fev^ elays. 
 
 Bee. loth. — Walked down to the Temple of Peace. 
 Some compajiies cf French soldiers were being drilled 
 by their sergeants in front of the grand arches of the 
 Temple. The contrast of Peace and War was forcible. 
 
 Turned up into the Forum.. Euins few and skeleton-, 
 like ; not at all like the pictures of the Forum which I 
 have seen in America. The " Forum Restored " is a 
 very interesting print ; but to see the Forum looking 
 thus, we must go back to ancient times. To restore 
 the Forum- now, you would have to re-mould ten feet 
 of earth into architectural forms ; besides i^ulling down- 
 many modern buildings, parts of which are composed 
 of the stones and broken siiafts of temples. Read the 
 history of Rome; let your imagination miake a CapitoL 
 and a Forum for you ; then come here and gaze as I 
 do, on the meagre reality. 
 
 Went into a gallery of statuary, near the CapitoJ.. 
 The statue of the "Venus of the Capitol" is here. It 
 was found among the ruins of the old capitoL* She is 
 naked of course, like all good statues, and her attitude, 
 is like that of the Venus de Medici and Power's Greek 
 Slave. I say that she is better looking than the Venus 
 tie Medici. She is plumper and looks more domestic 
 and comfortable. There is much old sculpture in this 
 gallery, found amongst the ruins of Rome; some of it 
 of great merit and in fair condition; anH part of it bro-. 
 ken and mouldering. The "Dying Gladiator" is here ; 
 
 * I was told aft. r, yard- that '.li's statue v.'as fouud in Adr.aa'a. 
 Villa. 
 
80 K. O M E .. 
 
 the one which gave Byron the hint for some fine poetry.^ 
 The Gladiator has fallen to the ground and rests on 
 his right hand. His left lies upon his thigh. His sword 
 has fallen from his gripe and lies, beneath his naked 
 body. The blood is j:^lowly trickling from. a stab in the 
 Bide, m^ide by one of the broad Roman swords. His 
 iT^outh and brow shew intense but s.lent suffering. Yefe 
 
 '' 'lis heart is far away ; 
 
 By the Pa!iiibc. where liis .young barbarians arc at p!ay ; 
 
 And she their n.ician ninilicr— 
 
 Ho, their sire, butchor'd to iiial^e a Roman hoiday." 
 
 There is a twisted chain or rope round the gladiator's- 
 neck, which shews that he is a slave. Hi.s forehead ia 
 low and marks his mean extraction. Yet your pity ia 
 none the less keen. 
 
 '■ The arena swims around him ! ho is jjone ! 
 
 Nor huaril the inlumwn aliout that hailM the wretch who won." 
 
 Dec. liih, — The porter of an Italian or French hote^ 
 is not the man who shoulders the baggage and •'carriea 
 Aveight;" not at all. He or she has a little otfjce near 
 the archway where is the gate under their chtirge. 
 They have also supervision uvc-r the candles, (which I 
 pay twenty cents each for,) the keys of the rooms, «fcc. 
 The little porter at my hotel fhinJi:; he can speak English; 
 but he cannot learn even the name of the guests. Ho 
 is continually handing me cards and hillds with which 
 I have nothing to do. It was just as bad at Florence. 
 The ' English waiter' brought me one day a letter f(>F 
 Mrs. Macdonald. I told him I was not Mrs. M. Ho 
 looked at the letter, then at me, and hesitated. I said 
 it was for a woman, "■lafenime^^'' and not for me. He 
 continued dubious and I thought I shonld be obliged 
 to go to extremities^to convince him that I v;as not Mrs, 
 Macdonald. 
 
 The "commissioner" of the Floicl cVAmcriqus is also 
 rather a poor English scholar; and taxed my ingenui-. 
 ty a good deal.,, 
 
 "Here" said he, "is the Trojan column." 
 
 "The what?" asked I, 
 
 "The column of the Trojans." ■ 
 
ROME, ^ 61 
 
 "Did it come from Troy ?" 
 
 "Yes, the Trojan column." 
 
 After a little reflexion, fori was thinldng of the con- 
 diti(jn of Troy while Eome v»'as flourishing, I inquired 
 if it was not the colunm of Trajan. 
 
 "Yes, yes, Trnjan's column." 
 
 Seeing a tree at a distance which I thought I knew^ 
 I asked the guide what it was. 
 
 "That is, is, is what you call the cry tree.'''' 
 
 "The weeping willow, I suppose." 
 
 "Yes, yes, that's it." 
 
 "We^it up to St. Peter's to- day. The church was 
 full of smoke. Some priests were performing in one of 
 the chapels and burning incense. The odor was like 
 that of sealing wax. AVent into the sacristy. Several 
 St. Peters' there. St. Peter is everywhere here. St. 
 Paul is seldom to be seen. "Was St. Peter ever in Eome? 
 They have money here which is called a j?flz«/, which the 
 natives think more of than of the saint. They do not 
 "rob Peter to pay Paul," perhaps; but give theni a 
 chance to rob both Peter and Paul ! And then see. 
 
 Some persons were going down into the cryj)t under 
 the church, a priest bearing alighted, candle before themy. 
 and wished me to g'o also ; but the way was too crook- 
 ed and dark, and I remembered my fall at Genoa. They 
 told mc that they saw some of the pavement, &c., of 
 the church built on that spot by the early christians; 
 many of whom suffered death on the ground where St, 
 Peter's now s.ands. 
 
 As I walked away from the church down the square, 
 I saw ten or tw'elve pieces of cannon ranged with their 
 muzzles towards St. Peter's and the Vatican. Not 
 knowing what to' make of this, I, got so near to the am- 
 munition wagons that the French sentry reque^^'red ma- 
 in a polite tone, to stand farther away, which of course 
 I did, not being able to face "the crowd." 
 
 "Aha !" said I to myself, "what are the 'thundfcrs of 
 the Vatican' to the barking of these little lion's whelps!" 
 
 I passed around to the castle of St. Angelo and had 
 
82 ROME. 
 
 hardly got upon the bridge leading across the Tiber; 
 when baiig went a gun from the castle just behind rne, 
 At that moment a brass band was heard and a troop of 
 French soldiers marched over the bridge. At a little- 
 distance from this, I mot some cannon g )ing towards- 
 the castle and St. Peter's I did not know but there 
 was a revolution. Every thing is kept so quiet here, 
 that it is not likely we shall know if it bj so, iiiitil the 
 arrival of the next nowspnpero. But they may never 
 come. "Galigiiani" was stopped the other day for some 
 article not liked by this govciiiment 
 
 There is one thing they cannot stop here, and that is 
 the o-cmi. AVe have it every day in showers, but then 
 the air is like that of April. 
 
 I have seen and heard enough of France and Italy 
 now, to declare ponlivchj that a man can live cheaper 
 in America than ineither of the two. Enilaud, of eour.^e, 
 is the dearest of the dear. You may take an attic room 
 in a back street, up a back stairway and eat you know 
 not what — ("rats and mice and such small deei") at a 
 common cafi strong with the odors of that damnable 
 weed, tobacco ; but for the same money }ou nuiy pur- 
 chase more known christian comforts, even in the ex- 
 travagant city of New York, than in Fran:;e or Italy. 
 This opinion is confirmed to me by numerous persons. 
 
 The "coin of this realm" is mostly in sntll, (dollars,) 
 pauls^ (ten cents,) and bioccld^ (cents); or as near as 
 may bo to that valuation. A copper half paul, (5 cents,) 
 when it has six or seven companions in your pocket, is 
 very hard on suspenders and trousers', buttons. How- 
 ever, the hospitable people of these parts are at all times 
 willing, by night or by day, to relieve yqu of your bur- 
 then. 
 
 Dec. i5^7i.— Eain ! rain! ! rain ! ! ! 
 
 ".■'ptuit rain, till j'ou have dreacUocl tbc steeples, 
 "Drowned ihe cocks." 
 
 But the sun will come out at times, and the moon too. 
 By-the-bye, a party is getting up with us to visit the 
 Coliseum by moon-light. It is not safe to go alone, al- 
 though there is a sentry there with fixed bayonet. 
 
ROME. 83 
 
 ^ wish to seethe taper shadow of that single cypress 
 tree upon the hill, pointing- lil^e the "slow unmoving 
 fingef uf scorn" to\\ardsthe blood-staineJ Amphithea- 
 tre 
 
 Dv. 16/A — There is a young artist from Scotland 
 stopping at thesanie h( tcl with nic, who is one of those 
 •enthusiasts that we sometimes read of. He is evident- 
 ly poo- an I (lojs not ritle, but walks. He has already 
 dono four thousand niiIe.-> : and his task is not yet ac- 
 coni])l!s!',ed. He sketches as he goes; and from his 
 •con\ers:iU();i I sliould judge tliat he has read much, is 
 of a lit'erary turn, jin.l.is most likely making a book. 
 A book for whic:\ he cannot find a publisher; or one 
 tliat will not strike the dull tympanum of the |)ublic. 
 Yet on he goo-: a bi-iiiht-cyed, rusty-coated enthusi- 
 ast ; ex[, ejtmg fame, but destined probably lik'f^ crowds 
 of others, to meet w'.th bitter disappointment. Yet 
 with his strong heart and thick soled toots, he presses 
 onwards to the evJ-hour. 
 
 As to the f//irk soled-boots, they are indispensable in 
 European travelling. Also woollen socks. I have worn 
 stout beo s every day but one since I left New-York. 
 On the wet deck of a ship you require them; and you 
 most need them while stumping about paved cities or 
 into the rjuiih country in search of curiosities In 
 Rome, almost entirely without sidewalks; and paved 
 with small stones which hurt the feet, and which are 
 •almost always wet from frequent showers, stout-soled 
 boots are not to be avoided. I throw out this hint for 
 your travelers. 
 
 The British pecple at the Hotel cPximerique think 
 and speak lightly oi the young artist above menticnied; 
 but they show great deference to a "cnptain in tho 
 Crunrds," who is trtaying at this house, and who is as 
 axvkward and ungainly a man as j^ou will see in our 
 back- woods. 'J hey fear to speak to him unless helirst 
 conunences the conversation. 
 
 "Who is this man," said I to one of them, "that you 
 •hew him such great respect':" 
 
84 ROME. 
 
 "He is a captain in the guards; lio has positio7i, and 
 it is that v,'e I'espect. You Americniis cannot under- 
 «tai;d this feelino-. You know notliiiig about it." 
 
 '■For ono," said I, " T do not wish to know anything 
 iibout it If a man conducts hinisulf in a proper man- 
 ner, no matter who he is, I had as liovu take him by the 
 band as a captain in. the guards," 
 
 '■ Tlic ri;nk is but llic jrn^iioa's Stan";!! ; 
 T!io muii'o the i^y.a fjr ;i' tl;:,t " 
 
 Iwas mentally voted a "red republican" on the spok 
 
 111 the course of the day I strayed into the church of 
 ■St. John Lateran, wlierc they say they have in safe 
 preservation the table on which the Last Supper was 
 c.iten ! 1 have no doubt that many people believe this 
 r.ssertion. FaitJi is a great thing; and so is crcdahhj. 
 
 Went to the Coliseum. Martial di'unis v^-ere beat- 
 ing on the Appian Way beyond the Arch of Constan- 
 tine : and in front of the Coliseum a company of sold- 
 iers were going through their exercises. I sat down 
 upon a stone in the amphitheatre and tried to imagine 
 some of the scenes tliat have been enacted within its 
 walls. 
 
 Oh, that the neck of every living tyrant vcas beneath 
 my feet ! 
 
 Oh, that I weighed five thousand pounds and had tho 
 pyramids of Egypt in my pocket ! 1 
 
 When the man whose dagger is v;et \\\i\\ tho blood 
 of a t^yrant, shall go to his last account, tlic angels will 
 •extend their right hands to him ; and looking with tear- 
 ful eyes towards the Almighty', will begin to ask for a 
 foi'givcness that is already granted. 
 
 D:c. MUi. — A May day, warm and s'wcet. Yfent 
 to St. Peter's witli some others and ascended to the 
 roof. Supposed that the dome up there would have a 
 v;:st appiniranco, but it did not. AYeut inside of it. 
 ThL' jiarty generally expressed disappointment. Tho 
 saying attributed to Michael Angelo, that he would 
 take the dome of the Pantheon v.nd "hang it in the aii'," 
 appears extremely windy. The view from the roof, of 
 
jl O M E . 85 
 
 city and country was very fine. T -ree cats, belonging 
 to the man who Hves on the roof, were very gracious 
 to strangers. They might have been old Romans in 
 disguise. A black one, with a wicked eye, looked like 
 Nero. 
 
 Dec. 18;;/i.— Sunday. This is better observed here 
 than in ^France ; all the shops being closed ; while the 
 myriad churches are open. 
 
 The air is warm and fine, but the pavements are wet, 
 •as usual, from the frequent showers. 
 
 Went up to St. Peter's. Some peasants, with bags 
 on their shoulders, came in and kneeled before Capito- 
 line Jove. After remaining in this position for a time, 
 they got up one by one, kissed the foot of the statue, 
 crossed themselves devoutly and walked off. A boy of 
 the party going up to kiss the foot, one of the men 
 pushed his head against it and bumped his nose. This 
 appeared quite irreverent. These peasants look like 
 Irishmen. They have knee breeches, low steeple crown- 
 ed hats, and are sturdy looking feliovv^s. Many of them, 
 beg, because in the present state of things there is no 
 work for them to do. 
 
 Walked down to Mount Pincio, a truly delightful 
 hill. Many carriages there, and much people in the 
 broad paths or among the green trees and shrubbery. 
 The fine sun enlivened all. 
 
 I am surprised on passing companies of priests to 
 hear so many of them speaking English with the true 
 British brogue. Puseyism has made a considerable 
 haul in England. Let us keep its nets out of our 
 waters. 
 
 Cardinal Wiseman is preaching here. I should have 
 gone to hear him to-day, had not his hour been four 
 o'clock, and my dinner is at five. I like my dinner 
 better than his doctrines. 
 
 Dec. I9th. — A party, consisting of one Scotchman, 
 two Irishmen, two Englishmen, and one American, 
 started at eight o'clock this morning for Tivoli, across 
 the Roman Campagna Little patches of the old Ro- 
 
86 T I V O L I . 
 
 man pavement remained, but composed as it was of flat, 
 undressed stones of various sizes, not laid close togeth- 
 er, it did not afford easy riding. Tlie country looked 
 barren, or like worn out land. Much of it belongs to 
 the church. Saw a herd of buffaloes with other cattle 
 grazing in a field. Stopped the carriage to take a view 
 of the "Tartarean Lake." It was in a cultivated field, 
 and seemed a diminutive pond, crooked and narrow, 
 like a creek. Couldn't smell anything. Kode on some 
 distance, when a powerful stench struck our noses. It 
 was from a ditch which crossed the road, and which 
 was the outlet of the '' Lake of Tartarus." The sulphur- 
 ous smell which vve now encountered was almost enough 
 to knock one's hat off". As we neared Tiv(?li, seated up 
 among the hills, the road wound along the side of the 
 mountain among a large grove of olive trees. The 
 olive is gnarled and crooked, and in shape resembles 
 the apple tree. From the hill, or mountain, we had a 
 fine view of the level Campagna, with Rome and St. 
 Peter's in the distance. On arriving at a public house 
 near the Temple of the Sibyl, we passed through into 
 the yard to get a view of the Falls of Tivoli. Several 
 small streams pitch over the precipice into the valley 
 below. The largest is about the width of an ordinary 
 brook, and sends out clouds of spray at its foot to keep 
 the valley green and beautiful. The scene is surround- 
 ed by an amphitheatre of mountains, combining the 
 beautiful and grand. Half way down a hillside stand 
 the ruins of the villa of Horace ; and not far off those 
 of Catullus. Shut in here Avith his own meditations, 
 among this wild scenery, with the milky cascades be- 
 fore his eye, and their seething descent to the vale be- 
 low, breathing in his ear by night and clay, no wonder 
 that the poet became inspired. 
 
 The Temple of the Sibyl stands on a high bluff. It 
 is small and round, encircled by colunms, most of which 
 no'w remain. It is connected with a small square build- 
 ing. The view of them from below, is very picturesque. 
 At the sides of the paths leading down the precipice, 
 
ROME. 87 
 
 are several eaves ; one large one is called the Grotto of 
 
 Neptune. 
 
 We had a dinner at the public house ; and I waa 
 much surprised to see when the time of settling came, 
 how suspicious the British people were of each other's 
 moral honesty.. Every one appeared to think that the 
 others wished to cheat him. We manage these matters 
 more properly in America. 
 
 On our return, when about a mile from Tivoli, we 
 turned off the main road to Adrian's Villa. Scattered 
 over several fields, are broken walls and arches. The 
 villa and grounds were said to be ten miles in circum- 
 ference. A theatre, baths, &c., were attached to the 
 place. Though the remains appear mostly of brick and 
 mortar, many elegant columns were taken from this 
 place ta adorn the churches of Eome. Many statues 
 and other works of art were also found here. 
 
 The " Vale of Tempe''' (*) is in this vicinity. A pret- 
 ty valley, though very small of its age. 
 
 We had another sniff of the stinking Tartarean Lake, 
 which was anything but agreeable after dinner. 
 
 Three hours after dark we arrived near the gates of 
 Eome. Some gendarmes met us and asked if we had 
 "seen anything on the road." Had we been one or two, 
 instead of six, we might have seen the muzzle of a mus- 
 ket "on the road". The robbers are not yet all taken. 
 
 As we drove into the town, we observed that some 
 of the public buildings were illuminated. We were told 
 that two new Cardinals had been made. Illuminate 
 the people's mind, and there will be no Cardinals. 
 
 Dec. 9.Qth. — Rain, rain, rain. 
 
 Dec. 2lst. — Rain, rain, rain. 
 
 " The rain it raineth every day ;: 
 " Heigho ! the wind and the rain." 
 
 They have been making a "mitred abbof^' of an Eng- 
 lish seceder to-day; the first since the Reformation. 
 Those who saw the ceremony, describe it as very ridi- 
 
 * I thought the Vale of Tempe had been in Greece. There must hare been a 
 great land slide. 
 
S8 K O M E , 
 
 culous. Where the new Abbey is to be, I am unabl©- 
 to say, but I believe it is to be in Lincolnshire. The fat 
 bucks ! the venison pasties ! the Rhenish wine and the 
 nut-brown ale ! ! 
 
 To-morrow the Pope performs the ceremony called;; 
 "opening the mouths" of the two new Cardinals ; that 
 is, allowing them to speak. None are admitted to this 
 performance unless they go in opera dress ; "tail coat ;" 
 black pants and vest, and white "choker." 
 
 Dec. 22d— "Was not that thunder?" 
 
 We had at midnight a thunder storm. — This Eoman 
 thunder is very good. Did not the "sheeted dead" 
 gather at the Forum to hear Jove thundering in the 
 skies ? 
 
 Eain, rain, rain ! Always rain in Eorne. 
 
 Went to the picture gallery of the Vatican. Saw 
 one of the "wonders of the world;" the Transfiguration 
 by Raphael-^ also pictures by Titian, Corregio, Guido, 
 Carlo Dolci, &c. As the moderns excel the ancients 
 in the art of sculpture (it is my ojnnion)^ so do the "new 
 masters" beat these old buffers all to pieces. Artists 
 who know, and nincompoops who don't know, may 
 differ with m^e in opinion. 
 
 Went into St Peter's. The two new Cardinals came 
 in with a dozen or more priests, a guard of papal soldiers 
 dressed like Harlequins, a number of servants or "flun- 
 kies" in livery, with vastly intelligent heads and faces, 
 and a crowd of spectators. The trains of the Cardinals 
 were held up by some of the subservient priests. Before 
 several of the altars the procession kneeled, and perhajjs 
 said prayers. Capitoline Jove's foot vfas reverently 
 kissed by the Cardinals-, ^iter having been carefully 
 wiped with a white handkerchief. The educated rogues 
 knew that it was the statue of Jupiter, but they were 
 obliged to please the mob. 
 
 In the porch of the church about fifty poor people 
 were each presented with five biocchi (5 cents) by a 
 man with a bag in his hand and a white hat on his head. 
 Could all the poor of this poor city have been collected 
 
ROME. 89 
 
 and presented each even with so small a sum, it would 
 have made their hearts glad. 
 
 Dec. 9.Zd. — More ram ! Went to the Borghese palace 
 to look at pictures by the ''old masters." This is said 
 to be the best picture gallery in Rome. "So mote it 
 be." I am pretty well satiated with palaces and pictures. 
 Cold and cheerless exhibitions. 
 
 There is always something to pay the doorkeepers 
 at all these places, although the gallei'ies are called 
 "free." In arranging these little money matters, I have 
 noticed, time and again, that the subjects of Queen 
 Victoria are contemptibly^ mean. They stoop to evasions 
 and tricks that any decent American would scorn. 
 
 Will this everlastmg wet ever become dry ? It is 
 not at all cold, but we strangers, or "forestiers" as we 
 are called, are obliged to wear our uncomfortable over- 
 coats as a protection against the damp. Several severe 
 colds have already been taken by my new foimed 
 acquaintances, becaase they found it too warm for over- 
 coats. When in Rome, do as the Romans do ; and 
 nearly all of them wear their cloaks. 
 
 Dec. 2iih. — The sun is making an attempt to shine 
 to-day. Heaven grant that he may succeed! Went 
 again to the Coliseum. The sun shone out warmly at 
 intervals, and the birds flew over the arena or sat and 
 sung high up among the grass crowned arches. Happy 
 little fellows! They had never read ancient history, 
 and were not made melancholy by reflecting that their 
 songs had been sung in a scene of former awful sufl'ering. 
 But the old amphitheatre is mouldering and crumbling. 
 Even the many new arches that have been inserted 
 will not suffice to hold it up. 
 
 "While standi the Coliseum, Rome shall standi 
 
 "When fills the Coliseum, liortje shall fall ; • 1 
 
 And when Rome falls, the WQrld." 
 
 Which 'Rom.Ql 
 
 Returned to the- Forum. I wish I could see the artist 
 who made the print of the modern Forum. I would. 
 Ii1:e to have him point out the ruins he has put into hia 
 picture. 
 
 8? 
 
Descended to the base of the Tarpeian Eock. About 
 15 feet of earth seem to have formed here; and I conjee 
 ture that the rock may have been 40 feet high. Suc- 
 a fall would break bones. 
 
 Strolled back to Mt. Pincio, and from thence to the 
 only decent cafe in Rome, in the Piazza di Spagna. 
 Saw several Englishrhen there taking coffee and trying 
 to look satisfied. The attempt was a failure. 
 
 To night, at the church of St. Mary Maggiore, the 
 Pope is to be present. The manger in tvhich Jesus 
 Christ ivas born is to be carried in procession ; with 
 other ceremonies. 
 
 Dec. 25th. — Christmas day. They say that here are 
 6,000 priests, friars, monks and nuns. Will they be at 
 St. Peter's to-day? 
 
 At the bridge of St. Angelo, dragoons were posted; 
 also along the streets thence to St. Peter's. The people 
 on foot and in carriages were tending towards the great 
 church. As I entered St. Peter's, a military band up 
 in the dome were playing a very pretty air. Several 
 hundred soldiers were drawn up in line in the body of 
 the church, armed with musl^ets and bayonets, swords 
 and pikes. The clanking of muskets on the marble 
 floor of the church, produced thought. Some of the 
 Pope's guards were dressed fantastically. One of his 
 household wore precisely such a dress as Ham.let wears 
 in the play. He was ever strutting- up and down. I 
 got near some tall grenadiers, with caps four feet high, 
 and there was no chance of seeing beyond them. Many 
 French soldiers were present, merel}^ as spectators. One 
 of them attempting to pass into the square beyond tlie 
 grenadiers, where ho saw some of his companions, was 
 not permitted because he wore his gray military over- 
 coat. The French soldier, who was a head shorter 
 than the Italian guard, looked up with a meaning smile 
 on his lip. Place the two, thought I, in a field alone, 
 with proper weapons in their hands, and I will wager 
 100 to 1 on the Frenchman. The Italians will turn on 
 the French some day ; and then ! 
 
ROME. 91 ' 
 
 I saw some persons present whom I considered were 
 militia officers when at home. They seemed as if they 
 felt themselves suspected to bo sham warriors, although 
 wearing the gewgaw dress. An Irishman here whom^ 
 I know, wore his boat- club dress so as to get a good 
 place. This was quite ridiculous. 
 
 Chanting and singing went on for two hours. Voices^ 
 were heard in distant chapels of the church, and replied 
 to by the choir. Now you heard them, and now jou 
 did'nt. "Then again you did." Suddenly the soldiers 
 in front, and the spectators around me knelt down. 
 The Pope was coming ! I continued my efforts to back 
 out of the crowd, for I supposed some zealous persons 
 would attempt to make me kneel ; and I resolved that I 
 would not do so. At last I got near some French sold- 
 iers, part of whom were standing. Here I felt at ease. 
 I could not see what was going forward, but learned 
 afterwards that the cai'dinals were kissing the Pope's 
 hand ; and some inferior priests his foot. Che "host," 
 or "sacred wafer", or something else, was elevated ; a 
 procession of cardinals with white caps, seemingly of 
 foolscap paper, passed within my view; then the Pope, 
 borne b}'' men and sitting under a gaudy canopy. A. 
 ''blessed cap," destined, they say, for Louis Napoleon's 
 head, was borne before him ; and behind him upon the 
 end of a pole, a peacock's tail. The Pope had a mitre 
 on his head decorated with jewels; and on his fingers 
 were valuable rings. His robes were white. His face 
 was jolly ; he looked like a well fed, kind hearted old 
 man in an uneasy position. He is weak and timid ; and 
 perhaps sighs for a private station. 
 
 The crush at the doors was great. After getting 
 well jammed, I placed myself in a corner to allow the 
 crowd to pass. Here I saw several Itahan ladies who 
 were handsome. They have a curious method of look- 
 ing at you out of the corner of their dark eyes. I sup- 
 pose they can't help it. Wish they could. 
 
 The theatrical ceremonies I have seen and heard of 
 here, together with other persuasives, are making me 
 
92 ROME. 
 
 an Anti-Papist. I cared nothing for Popery before; 
 now I contemn it. I have visited the churches, seen 
 the comedies^ but did not wait for the/arce. It was all 
 farce. 
 
 More than ever, now, do I respect our little white 
 country churches with their pure and simple form of 
 worship. The rough backwoodsman in the western 
 forest, can send up from his heart among the giant trees, 
 an offering to the Almighty, that must be far more ac- 
 ceptable than these idolatrous mummeries. 
 
 Dec. 26ih. — Being near the old capitol to-day, I went 
 into the courtyard of a gallery of sculpture to look at 
 some fragments of a huge statue. The feet were enor- 
 mous; and the arm above the elbow was larger than a 
 hogshead. What was the height of this statue, or where 
 it stood, I do not learn. 
 
 "The thunder stricken nurse of Rome," 
 
 sung by Byron, is in this gallery. It is an ancient statue 
 in bronze of% she-wolf Underneath her are two little 
 naked babies, well developed, busily engaged in extract- 
 ing their nourishment. These tvfo are Romidus and 
 Remus. This statue was struck by lightning, which 
 made a hole in one of its hind legs. 
 
 There is here a bust of Brut us. He had a bold front ; 
 andresembled Red Jacket, the Indian, and Ned Forrest, 
 the tragedian. Here I saw full length statues of Virgil, 
 Cicero and Julius Ceesar. The two former were in a 
 badly lighted room. The latter seems a man of brains 
 and will, but the face is not like that of a bust of him 
 at Florence. The art of flattery was understood in- 
 ancient times. 
 
 Crossed the square and entered the building where 
 li-esthe "Dying Gladiaton" He is worth several visits. 
 Saw here to-day, "Pliny's Doves." This is a very fair 
 mosaic of doves drinking out of a vase. It was found 
 in Phny's villa. The statue of the Venus of the Capitol 
 could not be seen the day after Christmas. Why? 
 Because she is naked ? 
 
 Walked away to- a church where upon the altar lay 
 
ROME. 9S 
 
 a wax doll about a foot long, wrapped in gold wrought 
 swaddling clothes. It represented the infant Jesus. 
 Around him were burning several wax candles. 
 
 "When I came away from the church, I stopped to 
 loot at a palm tree. The wind was playing with its 
 peculiar leaf-shaped branches, if branches they were. 
 Its trunk is pecuhar and the whole tree resembles the 
 prints of it, except that it is shorter and larger than the 
 idea conveyed. Perhaps this climate makes the 
 difference. 
 
 Dec. '^Ith. — The sun is out once more ; for a brief 
 period, I fear. I have been making up my mind for 
 Naples, but after the protracted rains, the roads, 
 although usually good, must be heavy ; and the inns 
 by the way, poor at all times, damp and unwholesome. 
 We have accounts of a whole party having taken the 
 malaria lately at one of those inns. The distance to 
 Naples is one hundred and seventy miles ;* and to go 
 comfortably, you require three and a half days. You 
 can do the journey in several ways. By diligence, 
 starting at 11 A. M., riding all night, and arriving next 
 afternoon. By diligence at 7 A. M., sleeping at Terra- 
 cina, and reaching Naples in the next night. By vet- 
 turino, travelling at ease by daylight, and sleeping 
 three nights iipon the road. By the first two vehicles, 
 the fare is about twelve dollars, and "find yourself" 
 By vetturinOy about eleven dollars, and found. In the 
 early morning they give you coffee ; at eleven a meat 
 breakfast ; and dinner at four or five when they stop 
 for the night at the place where they have provided 
 you with beds. This is the best method of reaching 
 Naples at this time. You can go by diligence to Civita 
 Vecchia, and thence by the Marseilles steamer to Na- 
 ples, but there is now a quarantine, and the passengers 
 are sent to the lazaretto for several days. When the 
 weather gets pleasant, I think I shall try the vetturino. 
 
 One must be careful how he talks \w Naples, We 
 
 * Probably less. 
 
94 ROM E - 
 
 hear of an American and an Englishman who had 
 been arrested by " King Bomba," because they dared 
 to express their opinions aloud. Where is Captain 
 Ingraham ? I had rather have him for my friend in 
 such an emergency, than the whole American Con- 
 gress. Every man who leaves here for Naples, they 
 say, is well known. Spies are listening at all the pub- 
 lic places. I have been warned once or twice not to 
 speak so freely, but the truth will out. I. wish to keep 
 out of difficulty, of course, but I never can have but 
 one opinion of such a brute as the King of Naples. 
 He would have no hesitation in taking one's letters 
 from the Post Office, not he. "A little more grape, 
 Capt. Bragg." This is the " short and easy method" 
 to bring modern tyrants to their senses. 
 
 I rode out to-day farther on the Appian Way 
 than I had before been. We were a carriage full, de- 
 termined to enjoy a semi-sunlight day. Tne old pave- 
 ment is yet firm, but the stones of all shapes and sizes, 
 though flat, are too far asunder and make rough riding. 
 Along the way were set up many fragments of columns, 
 statues, &c., that are being constantly dug up. We 
 got a good view of Campagna ; and Frascati on the 
 Alban Hills. Some thought they saw patches of snow 
 on the mountains; but I thought them white villas. 
 There were many old brick and mortar ruins in tho 
 fields by the roadside. 
 
 I saw by the Appian Way something that reminded 
 me of America. It was a modern stone wall, the first 
 I have seen in Europe. This is a Feast Day in Rome. 
 All the shops are shut, and crowds are walking the 
 streets and driving or sauntering upon -the top of the 
 pleasant Mount Pincio. The day has become cloudy 
 and somewhat chilly. The flowers in the open air 
 seem cold. 
 
 This Rome is a quiet, moral looking town on the 
 outside. There is no visible form of licentiousness 
 night or day. We may hear of private immoralities, 
 but as we get our accounts from the most stubbornly 
 
ROME. 95 
 
 prejudiced people in the world — the English — they are 
 greatly exaggerated. From my limited observation, 
 and from fiequent conversations with those of more 
 experience of continental life, I firmly believe that there 
 is more gross licentiousness in England and America, 
 than in France or Italy. If these latter countries were 
 as lewd as we have been led to beheve, there would be 
 6ome signs visible to the stranger. " Grive the Devil 
 his due." 
 
 I here have another word to speak about the "Bri- 
 tishers." I am surrounded by them every day at din- 
 ner, most of the Americans having the opposite end of 
 the table. I wish to see and hear t\\e foreigners at this 
 time. The Englishmen all seem to know and associate 
 with many of the "nobihty and gentry," that is, if one 
 can credit their stories. Now I am aware that in Eng- 
 land they look up to the titled asses above their heads, 
 and dare hardly answer them if spoken to. A young 
 Irishman here is continually telling us what "my friend 
 Sir Thomas E said to me." I called an Eng- 
 lishman's attention quietly to this fact, and he told m-e 
 that this boasting (or toadying, as it may be called) 
 was peculiar to Irishmen. This was a good joke to me, 
 " seeing what I have seen, and hearing what I have 
 heard." The fact is too apparent. Your free, bluff, 
 gallant Englishman comes abroad to bully French and 
 Italian Avaiters, servants and cab-drivers ; and returns 
 home to be bullied in his turn. Nothing is good enough 
 for him on the continent or in America ; while in either 
 land he gets three times as much for his money as he 
 ^ets at home. Talk of the bragging of the Yankees ! 
 Away from homCj the Englishman's whole life is a game 
 of brag. 
 
 Dec. 28th — "Wet and unpleasant. The Vv'aiter who 
 ^'speaks English" at this hotel, says : 
 
 "The weather is very lunatic, «ir." 
 
 "What," said I. 
 
 "The weather is very lunatic ; is not that right ?" 
 
 The word was not a bad one, but as he seems verj 
 
96 ROME. 
 
 clesirous to learn English, I advised him to substitute 
 '■'■ rheumatic y My limbs by certain twinges assure me 
 that the correction is proper. 
 
 "Italy, the land of music and song." So say the 
 book makers and letter writers ; so sing the poets and 
 so picture it the painters. Now, I have not heard mu- 
 sic in the streets of Rome but three times; and have 
 not seen one hand-organ. In the same space of time ia 
 New- York, the account would have been very different. 
 The spirit of this people is broken, and their musica;l 
 instruments exported. Their cheerfulness is gone. They 
 do not, like the Frenchmen, make the most of the pass- 
 ing moment, but brood sullenly over their condition. I 
 was led to beheve, as we all are at a distance, that Italy 
 was gay and lively ; that music was as common as water. 
 " Lord, Lord, how this world is given to lying !" In 
 Plorence there was a cheap opera company, but those 
 who heard it said nothing. They say there is an opera 
 here ; but no one seems to go to it. The singers are 
 most likely fourth-rate ; as, good ones get better paid 
 in America, France or England, and so emigrate thither. 
 There is a large theatre in Naples ; and Naples is a 
 large city ; wh at music and cheerfulness there may exist, 
 I know not. But as far as I have had experience, there 
 is no music and song in Italy. Genoa, Leghorn, Pisa, 
 Florence, Eome, are sad and silent. 
 
 "The harp that once through Tara's halls 
 _ The soul of music shed ; 
 
 ~' Now hangs as mute on Tara's walls, 
 As if that soul were fled. 
 
 In truth, and in fact, I find on asking the opinion of 
 the Americans, English and Irish, that I have met in 
 Italy, all agree that Italy is totally different in all res- 
 pects from what they were led to believe. The great 
 poets who got drhnk on gin, fancied in their intoxica- 
 tion that Italy was a paradise ; and then the little poets 
 who followed, dared not disagree. The painters and 
 the book makers were obliged to render their works 
 attractive or they would not sell. And so we have 
 been deceived ; and so we will continue to be humbug- 
 .:ged until we come her-e and see. 
 
ROME. 9f 
 
 Dfc. 29th — Chilly and cloudy to-day. Some flakes 
 of snow have fallen. Fickle climate ! but we can match 
 jou across the Atlantic. 
 
 In a former part of my Familiar Journal, I spoke of 
 an ill-mannered Irishman whom I m.et on the Marseilles 
 steamer. He is now in Rome and visits at the hotel 
 where I reside, much to the annoyance of several Eng- 
 lishmen, with whom he has scraped an acquaintance. 
 He is emphatically a ^joo?2o-e / and although that crea- 
 ture is not unknown in America, I think this Irish 
 sponge excels all that I have seen. He will enter the 
 rooms- of those on whom he inflicts his company, smoke 
 their tobacco, drink their wine, wash m their basins, 
 borrow their overcoats, and every thing else that he de- 
 sires, without ever oflfering to return a single civility ; 
 and all the while talking of his lands, tenants, rents, &c. 
 Although decorated with black hair to a sufficient ex- 
 tent to attract the friendship and society of a baboon 
 or bear ; and although gifted with a good and athletic 
 figure, the vulgar snob shines out at all points. On 
 congratulating one of the Englishmen on his new ac- 
 quaintance, he informed me that these chaps were com- 
 mon in Ireland. The snob, too, is continually lauding 
 every thing English, and decrying all things not found 
 in some part of Great Britain. As Ireland is, and has 
 been lying at the foot of England, it would seem most 
 proper for her sons to avoid becoming toad-eaters to 
 her conqueror and oppressor; but the meanness of 
 s'/wbism extends to a lower depth than "plummet line 
 has ever sounded." 
 
 Ttiere is quite another character in this hotel, who 
 avoids a-s much as he can, his fellow countryman, if 
 such he can be called. This is a clergyman of the 
 church of England ; a man whom we in America, from 
 his dress, conversation and general manner, would nev- 
 er for a moment suspect of being a clergyman. Yet, 
 vrith all his free and easy jollity, he is a gentleman in 
 feeling and conduct ; anxious always to "do the right 
 thing;" despising meanness and sponging; intelliffent 
 
 9 
 
98 ROME. 
 
 and agreeable. He enjoys a joke or a song with the 
 rest, without feeling the choaking of a white cravat, or 
 the scratching of a standing collar, because he wears 
 neither of them. His main failing, which seems a qual- 
 lity of the soil where he was born, is that liis prejudices 
 against many things not English, and in favor of some 
 abuses that are, sometimes make themselves visible. 
 But this is a John Bulhsm, all the world over; yet 
 may easily be excused when accompanied by sterling 
 qualities. 
 
 I first discovered this gentlemani:© be a clergyman 
 by seeing "Eev." upon his card. This being the only 
 English parson known to me, and withal sociable, edu- 
 cated, frank, and destitute of visible bad habits, I can- 
 not help respecting and liking him. 
 
 Dec. 30th. — On coming abroad, it is customary to 
 bring letters of introduction, most of which are never 
 delivered. I have destroyed nearly all of mine. I had 
 one to Powers, the sculptor at Florence, which I regret 
 that I did not present. I should have hked to see the 
 works he has in hand; but feared to trespass on his time. 
 
 I went to-day to the studio of Gibson, the first 
 English sculptor. - He is a plain, little man, with a sharp 
 face and gray whiskers. He ajDpears about 50 years 
 of age. There were several statues and busts in pro- 
 gress, and numerous plaster models of perfected works. 
 I saw a statue of Queen Victoria executed for the new 
 Parliament House ; a model in clay of Justice, designed 
 also for the same place ; and a bust of the Queen, which 
 represents her as ''better looking" than the prints we 
 see of her. Mr. Gibson has just completed a Venus, 
 on which he has been engaged at times for six years. 
 It is very beautifiil and quite equal to Powers' Greek 
 Slave. * I should like to possess both. The Venus is 
 the property of a gentleman in Liverpool. Gibson has 
 Ji pupil, a young American woman. I trust she may 
 become a sculptress of eminence; although so close an 
 
 • Coloring hae biOB iiseJ on and about tlie Veaus, which is » blemish. 
 
I 
 
ROME. 99 
 
 association with an artist will be apt to damage her 
 reputation. 
 
 When I know not what to do with myself, I stroll to 
 the Coliseum, St. Peter's or ML Pincio. When last 
 at St. Peter's, I saw some persons not only upon their 
 knees at their devotions, but with their foreheads pressed 
 to the marble floor. In coming from the Coliseum to- 
 day, I met several monks or friars, bearing black crosses 
 and chanting, followed by about twenty common and 
 ignorant women. They went into the Coliseum, passed 
 on to the large cross in the middle of the arena, knelt 
 before it in the dirt, rose and kissed it; the friars sing- 
 ing and chanting all the time. One of the "clargy" then 
 preached a discourse, which of course was all Greek to 
 me. I hope it did good to the poor people. How some 
 of the ancient Eomans \vould have liked to turn the 
 wild beasts into the &rena at this moment ! 
 
 Dec. oXst. — I went to-day to see in an old palace a 
 statue of Pompey; the one, they say, before which 
 ''great Cassar fell;" the statue running blood at the time. 
 In his left hand the statue holds a ball; his right is 
 extended; and drapery hangs from his left shoulder. 
 He is much cracked and broken. Some persons deny 
 that this is the identical statue. I cannot decide the 
 point. 
 
 After leaving Pompey, I went down past the Temple 
 of Vesta, near which was a fountain, from the rim of 
 which icicles were hanging. And no wonder, for the 
 hills are now covered with snov^^ Passing onward, I 
 saw the Tiber and the small sloops or schooners, as we 
 may call them, which go down the river and so to Naples 
 and other ports. The Pope's commercial marine is very 
 shabby indeed. Peached the English burial ground and 
 saw the grave of the poet Keats. He is said to have 
 had his end hastened by a bitter review in one of the 
 English quarterlies. 
 
 "Who killed John Keats 1 
 
 I, says the Quarterly, 
 
 Po savage and tartarly ; 
 
 'T was one of my feats." . 
 
100 ROME. 
 
 A slab of marble about three feet bigh, has upon it 
 a chiselled lyre, underneath which are these words: — 
 
 "This grave contains all that was mortal of a young 
 English poet, who on his death-bed, in the bitterness 
 of his heart, at the malicious persecution of hia enemies, 
 desired these words to be engraven on his tomb-stone — 
 'Here lies one whose name was writ in water.' February 
 24, 1821." 
 
 The pyramid of Caius Cestius is near the grave. 
 Numerous cypress trees grow in the burial ground. 
 
 Entering another part of the cemetery, you follow 
 the straight path from the gate directly up to the wall, 
 and there is a flat marble slab, lying on the ground and 
 surrounded by rose bushes. Shelley, the poet, lies here; 
 or rather his ashes^ for his body was burned and his 
 ashes placed in an urn. He was drowned while out at 
 sea with his boat. Upon the slab you read these words : 
 "Percy B^-sshe Shelley. Cor Cordium. Born, August 
 4, 1792. Died, July 8, 1822." 
 
 "Nolbing of him that dotli facte, 
 Bait diitti suffer a s=e-a ehasige, 
 into soiiiethiug rich ajid strange."* 
 
 It was v^'ell for Shelly to die young, for his religious 
 opinions, eo freely published, and his strange "matri- 
 monial" alliance, would have ever kept Mra in conflict 
 with the world. Yet his fame rises, higher, even now^ 
 thau the wondrous column of which he- wrote^ 
 
 ^'■Whose capital seem'd sculptur'd in the sky." 
 
 And whose "carved summit" at sunset 
 
 "Ciist the stmke-n diayllgho 
 Tar through the rerial waste." 
 
 Thus it has so happened that at the close of the- year,, 
 my last visit has been to a grave yard. ■ Not inap- 
 propriate may be these lines of Shelley's, which I quote 
 from nier-iory, 
 
 "How wonderful is Death > 
 Buath and his brother Sleep^ 
 Que pt\ie. as j-ondor \\:aniii^ cnoon- ; 
 The athe-r rosy ^s the morn : 
 Yet both so. passing wonderful !" 
 
 January Bd, 183 4. — An Englishman,, who. is a mer- 
 chant in New York, and myself, bargained with th& 
 
ROME. 101 
 
 vetturino to carry us to Naples for twelve dollars each, 
 feeding and lodging us by the M^ay. The vetturino 
 called for us at the Hotel d'Amerique at eight in the 
 morning. He had bells on his horses ; and a little dog 
 with his tail violently twisted to one side, came with 
 him, also wearing a little bell. We took leave of our 
 landlord, the most civil Italian I have yet met. He was 
 formerly a courier, or guide, commissioner or valet-de- 
 place, to families travelling through Europe, but has 
 now risen to be a hotel keeper, and a good one. 
 
 These guides, and also the drivers of vehicles, who 
 come in contact with Americans and Enghshmen, seem 
 to feel very little respect for church mummeries. They 
 speak freely when out of earshot of their countrymen. 
 Eiding out one day with a party, we saw a crowd of 
 dirty looking people, mostly women, coming down the 
 capitol hill ; and on asking the driver — a gray haired 
 old man — the meaning of it, he replied '■'■ bamhino P'' 
 (little boy) and fell into a fit of prolonged laughter, 
 which we could not help joining. The people had been 
 paying their adoration to a little wax doll, representing 
 the infant Jesus, and only about twelve inches long. 
 The old driver was not such a fool. 
 
 Our companions from "Roma" to "Napoli" were a 
 Frenchman, and a priest from Milan, sitting with us in 
 the interior. With the driver rode another Frenchman; 
 and on a covered seat behind them, a Milanese and 
 another Frenchman. 
 
 We passed the Forum and the Coliseum and took 
 the paved road called the New Appian Way. Arches, 
 sometimes alone, and sometimes several in a group, 
 were seen here and there in the fields. They were the 
 remains of an old Roman aqueduct. The Cam.pagna 
 is not well cultivated. I believe it is mostly owned by 
 the church, which accounts for its barrenness. Saw a 
 shepherd and his dog watching a flock of sheep feeding 
 in a rain storm. Had I asked him — 
 
 " (Jentle shepherd, tell rae why " 
 
102 A L B A N O . V ALETTRA, 
 
 you have no umbrella over your head ; he might have 
 rephed — 
 
 "A master I have and I am bis man/'' 
 
 consequently I don't own an umbrella. 
 
 The Alban Hills were before us ,' and at twelve 
 o'clock we reached Albano, near which Horace had a 
 villa. He is buried in the neighborhood, but no man 
 knows the exact spot. Albano is like other Italian 
 villages, coinposed of dirty white or yellow buildings, 
 with the stucco peeled off in spots. Gold brick or stone 
 floors, dirty and dark stone stairways, with ragged 
 beggars watching your ingress and egress, help to swell 
 the picture. AVe here had our first meat breakfast, or 
 dejeuner a la fourchette (breakfast with a fork), as the 
 French call it; and as we are fed b}^ contract, we did 
 not much complain, although the nutriment had been 
 extracted from the boiled beef to make soup of. Pork 
 chops, potatoes, bread, wii^e and apples, completed the 
 repast. The wane was not the old IFaleruian of Horace,, 
 but the common red stuff of the country. As the room 
 was chilly, the landlord brought in a kettle of coals and 
 placed it on the stone floor. This is the manner in 
 which St. Peter's is warmed, though the kettles are 
 seldom seen. 
 
 The sceneiy of the Alban hills is very Ime. The 
 road was a good McAdamized one, and we enjoyed 
 the afternoon ride. On the more level country, fields 
 of cane were growing. This cane is used to train the 
 vines upon, being cut and set up in rows. We passed 
 several vineyards. The vines are sometimes trained on 
 dwarf trees, set out in rows for the purpose, their tops 
 being nearly all cut off. In going up a hill, our horses 
 failed us, and we should have stuck fast there, had not 
 the driver of a vetturino behind us, lent his aid. 
 
 As we neared Valettra, the little ragged, barefooted: 
 children, ran out as usual to beg. They kept pace 
 with the carriage, holding out their dirty hands, and 
 calling in most plaintive voices, Signor ! Signor ! The 
 tone in which the Italians beg is always doleful in the 
 
THE P O N T I It E M A R S H E S . 103 
 
 extreme. At four o'clock we drove under the arch of 
 the hotel at Valettra and into the courtyard. At this 
 bleak tavern we were to pass the night. The English- 
 man and myself had a joint contract with the vetturino, 
 which included " foco " or fire. Our bedroom was damp 
 and we needed it. These contracts are printed forms 
 as large as a warranty deed. Duplicates are signed ; 
 one for the vetturino and the other for the passenger. 
 The dinner at this cold hotel was eaten with hats and 
 overcoats on. 
 
 January Uh. — We met this morning a good many 
 carts with small casks of wine piled up high upon them. 
 Also 'little asses, carrying such large loads of hay, 
 brush, bags, &c., that they could hardly be seen. Some- 
 times an ass ridden by a man, with a large cloak, show- 
 ed nothing but his head and tail. 
 
 The scenery was pleasant. Plain and valley, hills 
 and distant mountains met our view. The young green 
 wheat appeared in some of the fields, and the land 
 looked good. What a country could this be made 
 were it in the hands of the Anglo-Saxon race ! 
 
 A telegraph, with poles painted black, ran by the 
 side of the road. The clouds again "descended ia 
 showers." 
 
 Passed several convents, monasteries, or some other 
 fanatical prisons of the sort, looking gloomy, dull and 
 heart broken. 
 
 Met some droves of black pigs, seeming in excellent 
 condition. The swine and nearly all the sheep in Italy, 
 aa far as I have seen, are black. The oxen in this 
 district are not white, like those of Florence, but dua 
 colored. 
 
 We were now in the Pontine marshes. These are 
 flats, drained and cultivated in many places. Some 
 small ponds of water are to be seen after the great 
 rains which have prevailed ; and ducks and other birds 
 are plentiful. Some gulls, driven in from sea by a gale, 
 were flying about. There were also plover, snipe, mag- 
 pies, and a bird that appeared to be a gray-backed 
 
104 TERRACIWA. 
 
 crow. No person here is allowed to own a gun, unless 
 he pays a considerable tax to government; and is never 
 allowed to nse it without special license. The game 
 served on the table in Italy, is taken mostly in snares 
 and nets. 
 
 At 1 1 o'clock we arrived at what seemed a stable or 
 barn. Here we crept up a dark stone stairway and 
 took oxir breakfast. The bread and wine were endura- 
 ble ; but the boiled beef was as indigestible as a cork- 
 soled boot, but not half so nutritious. 
 
 The Pontine marshes stretched away like a level sea. 
 They were ditched and covered with green grain. The 
 -malaria prevails here in warm weather. 
 
 With our little watch dog riding behind on the lug- 
 gage, we set off on our journey. Many of the trees 
 along the road had been cut off about twenty feet from 
 the ground, and the stumps left to form new tops. * 
 The mountains that had all day appeared on our left, 
 now dipped suddenly in front of us and looked Avhite, 
 chalky and perpendicular, as if split in two. At 4 o'clock 
 we passed into the village of Terracina^ which is on the 
 Mediterranean. We did not stop at the "Inn of Ter- 
 racina" so famous in fiction, but at the "Grand Hotel. 
 Eoyal," whose very foundation stones are washed by 
 the sea. On the opposite side of the hotel runs a cliff 
 a part of which, somewhat in the form of a square tower, 
 has been rent off by one of the convulsions of nature, 
 and now looms up in the air. There had been a gale 
 and the sea was restless and roaring. A room looking 
 directly down into the Mediterranean, was assigned to 
 the Enghshman and myself. I walked out before dinner 
 to enjoy the mild and balmy atmosphere. The telegraph 
 passes through the village, part of which is built upon 
 the side of the bluff. I saw a short railway leading Irom 
 the chff to the sea, upon which was transported, perhaps, 
 limestone or marble. 
 
 This be'ng my birth day ; and my English companion 
 
 • Firewood is very scarce and dear in Ita'j-. 
 
TERRACINA. 105 
 
 fond of a glass of wine, and indulging himself in spite 
 of the bronchitis, I stood a bottle of lachryma christi 
 (tears of Christ) at 60 cents the bottle. A queer name 
 this to be given to wine in such a pious country ! 
 
 Our room having been warmed by a lire, according 
 to contract, we ordered cofiee, eggs and bread to be 
 ready at half past six in the morning, also according to 
 contract. I lay hstening to the booming sound of the 
 sea until I fell asleep. In the night I awoke and looked 
 out of the window. There ^vas a new moon, hanging 
 like a silver crescent in the Heavens. The distant sea 
 looked dark and quiet. But as it approached, it dashed 
 its waters over the breakers and dragged" large even 
 sheets of foam, like winding sheets, to the shore. 
 
 January 5th — The rest of the passengers, as well as 
 the vetturino, wishing to start at 6 A. M., an hour before 
 the appointed time, several deputations were sent to our 
 room, but without eiiect. The vetturino then came^ 
 but my companion would not consent. At last four of 
 the passengers, the priest not among them, came in a 
 state of excitement and almost insisted on our setting 
 off at once. They said they were six to two in favor of 
 going ; that we could not reach the place where we 
 were to dine and pass the night, before late in the 
 evening ; and the spokesman, a Frenchman, stood by 
 the Englishman's bedside, slapping his breast, gesticu- 
 lating as all Frenchmen do, more like monkies than 
 men, and declaring that he had a disease of the lungs. 
 The Englishman, who is smaller and younger than 
 myself, lay perfectly straight upon his back, with nothing 
 visible but his face, decorated with a yellow moustache 
 and whiskers. His head was raised about six inches 
 from the pillow without the help of his hands, just as a 
 Bnake raises his head; and he was rebutting the French- 
 man's arguments with considerable vigor; asserting 
 that he had got the bronchitis, and he'd be — if he'd go I 
 The person who occupied the other bed in the room ; 
 and whose name you may guess, stood holding up his 
 drawers with one hand^ as one of Washington Irving's 
 
l06 
 
 TERE-ACINA 
 
 worthies did his breeches, while with the other he 
 pointed to the agreement with the vetturinom which the 
 hour of starting was to be seven o'clock. The tableau 
 was irresistible. The passenger who held the candle 
 laughed; the Englishman laughed; the person who was 
 striving to keep his drawers from falling about his heels, 
 laughed ; all laughed but the oratorical Frenchman, who 
 left the room sulky and grumbhng. 
 
 Our road soon left the sea and we began to see more 
 signs of cultivation. Some men were at work in a gar- 
 den where we saw peas growing. The hills receded and 
 left the land more tlat and tillable. The huts of the la- 
 borers, built of mud, stone and sticks, were seen at inter- 
 vals ; as were also detached fragments of old ruins. The 
 scenery was beautiful ; and the country as green as our 
 Spring. We reached the first Neapolitan custom house, 
 and all the lus^o-ao-e was taken from the carrinare into a 
 small house ; and the trunks and bags unlocked. Our 
 passports, which had been out of our hands once or 
 twice on the road already, were taken to the dignitaries 
 up stairs. An officer with a long pencil in his mouth 
 came to my trnnk. He had power to unroll every shirt, 
 and I knew it. I also knew where to touch his tender 
 point Alter he felt about 50 cents, he would hardly 
 look at anything except a book of prints of the ruins of 
 E-ome. This might excite rebellion, for they are afraid 
 of books here ; so he handed it to his superior, a well 
 dressed little man, who at once returned it as all right. 
 "We paid what we pleased for our passports, and were 
 happy in getting off' so cheaply. While at this office, a 
 heavy storm of thunder, lightning, rain and hail, came 
 on. 
 
 The above custom house had something manly and 
 bribable about it. At the last office which we passed 
 in the Pope's dominions, the men did not even come out 
 of doors. The driver came and collected some coj^pers 
 of the passengers, when • we were allowed to pass on 
 without any examination. 
 
 Saw to-day some fig, orange and lemon trees. The 
 
G A K T A . 107 
 
 two last wore in feather and looked well ; but this seems 
 to be the winter of the fig and it looked bare. 
 
 The road now turned into the mountains. Herds of 
 goats came past us. Then a man with two horses to 
 give us a lift up a long and winding hill, commanding 
 fine mountain scenery. Some of the hills were covered 
 with olives to their sam.mits. Well built viaducts led 
 over the valleys and chasms; in fact, the road all the 
 way to Naples is well got up and must have cost a deal 
 of money. 
 
 We passed a small village, most romantically situat- 
 ed in ihe mountains. 
 
 At about twelve o'clock we reached Gaeta, where 
 we were to breakfast. The sea here again was in view. 
 But a few rods from the inn, mountains with snow in 
 their gorges, rose in the air, while near the house on 
 the other side was an orange grove filled with yellow 
 fruit. We learnt here, to our regret, that we had 
 passed the tomb of Cicero without seeing it. He ia 
 buried near the road, not far from this place. 
 
 The Enghshman wished to try the classical Falernian 
 wine. It tastes and looks like port. It may be Faler- 
 nian and it may not. 
 
 Saw on our way some men spading instead of plough- 
 ing the ground. I presume they know the landmarks 
 for there are no division fences. Except along the road- 
 side, fences are rare in Italy. 
 
 Many ragged, barefooted children ran by our car- 
 riage. The girls were very fleet. Nothing would 
 stop them but copper coin. 
 
 Our poor horses began to fail. For several miles 
 before reaching Santa Agata they could only go upon 
 a walk. On driving under the arched gateway into 
 the court-yard of the inn at six o'clock, the vetturino 
 was unable to make the usual dash and flourish wnth 
 his four jaded horses. 
 
 The inn answered to the description of those spoken 
 of in Don Quixotte. A whitewashed stone gallery ran 
 along the back side of the house, from which could be 
 
108 SANTA AGATA. 
 
 Been the distant bills over the opposite roof of the build- 
 ing, erected round a hollow square. The court-yard 
 below would have been just the place where the mule- 
 teers would have tossed Sancho in a blanket. 
 
 We were shewn into a bedroom with a stone floor 
 und no matting or carpet on it. After some energetic 
 conversation and gesticulations, we were given another 
 in better condition. A row here commenced about the 
 fire in our agreement, which the landlord said meant 
 fire in the dining room. The Englishman got into a 
 rage. The quarrel continued all the way along the stone 
 gallery into the eating room, where sat the other pas- 
 sengers. The Enghshman here insisted on a fire, 
 partly in French and partly in Italian, winding up with 
 
 the ferocious English oath of you ! which to me 
 
 appeared such a ludicrous mixture, that I have not yet 
 finished laughing at it. We got the fire. The vettu- 
 rino, I presume, made explanations, 
 
 January '^Lh. — The country looks more beautiful. Is 
 the land better, the sun warmer, or are we getting 
 under the thin edge of the wings of the Black Vulture of 
 Superstition, whose body casts such a blighting shadow 
 over Rome? There are vineyards on the hill sides. 
 The grass and trees are green ; and the land is neat 
 and "well tilled. I have seen nothing like it since leav- 
 ing France. 
 
 A ragged boj^, about three feet high, ran by the side 
 of our carriage, reciting some verses and gesticulating 
 like an actor ; slapping his breast at times to give more 
 force to his words. His performance was well worth 
 the coppers that were thrown to him. 
 
 We passed some handsome orchards of olives ; the 
 trees planted in regular rows like apple trees ; and the 
 land beneath as level as a floor and fresh with green 
 wheat. Some neat white dwellings appeared in the 
 fields at long distances. Beyond were the blue hills, 
 6till going with us on our journey. 
 
 Some queer vehicles met us. All of them had but 
 two wheels each, but the teams were various. A single 
 
CAPUA. 109 
 
 small pot-bellied horse, with his head down, would bo 
 
 plodding along; the rough square shafts, about four inches 
 thick, going over his back and made fast to th.e wooden 
 
 7 0^ 
 
 saddle from which lie seemed to draw as well as from 
 the rope traces. Sometimes three horses abreast ; the 
 shafts fastened upon the back of the middle horse. 
 Then u large ox and a little donkey harnessed to- 
 getlier. The drivers looked and dressed like Irishmen. 
 An occasional one-horse vehicle, also with two wheels, 
 of handsomer construction was seen, containing jjeople 
 looking like flourishing farmers. 
 
 The day was mild as May when we reached the 
 quaint old town of Capua at half past ten. Here we 
 at once heard drums and saw soldiers, together with a 
 few priests — to a procession of which the people took off 
 their hats. We drove into the courtyard of the white- 
 washed but mean hotel, and ascended from the court- 
 yard up a winding stone stairway to the breakfast room. 
 The breakfast was a failure. 
 
 There is a railway from Capua to Naples, and some 
 of the passengers went by it. Not only was our road 
 bordei'ed with trees, but it ran betv^'een vineyards for 
 many miles. The vines are larger here, and are trained 
 on trees so high that a ladder is necessary to reach the 
 grapes. The vineyards now look bleak and bare, like 
 an American forest in winter. 
 
 We knew that we were almost upon Naples, yet 
 were aware that we could not see it from its situation, 
 until within the town. We reached a small building 
 before which the vetturino stopped. This was the cus- 
 tom house. Several men in military toggery came out 
 with a ladder to " make believe" take down the lug- 
 gage for examination. The driver came to the window 
 and told us that we could bo " put through" for one 
 dollar. It was subscribed and paid by the Englishman 
 and myself, the priest inside with us paying nothing. 
 The vehicle moved on without further delay. This is 
 the best custom house I have ever yet encountered. 
 We stopped at the passport office, ilere our pass- 
 
 10 
 
110 NAPLES. 
 
 ports were taken from us and receipts for them giveu. 
 We asked tke charge. " What you please," was the 
 reply. The Englishman and myself paid ten cents 
 each. 
 
 We had been told that we would have more trouble 
 with our passports and luggage in going to Naples 
 than ever before. " Is not the truth the truth ?" I 
 have had less trouble with u:iine tlum at any place this 
 side of Folkestone, England. 
 
 We entered a winding road among the hills. As we 
 emerged from them we saw the Bay of Naples and the 
 city. To the left was a mountain with two heads, both 
 in the low clouds. The priest pointed to them and ex- 
 claimed, " Vesuvio.''^ 
 
 The vetturino rattled through the paved streets of 
 the handsomest town this side of Paris. We reached 
 the Iloicl i' Univcrs, situated in a fine wide street 
 opposite to a garden full of green trees, with oval plots 
 of green grass and shrubbery; adorned with fountains 
 and marble statuary ; and its further side touching the 
 water of the fai-- famed Bay of Naples. 
 
 I was given an excellent, pleasant room. There was 
 no soap in it; that was of no moment, for I keep my 
 cake. The chambermaid is a ma}i/ This is improper. 
 Very. 
 
 Naples, Jamiarj/ 2lsL — It is necessary fur strangers 
 in this city to get from the authorities a ca7-te of sojourn 
 for one or two months, as they may require, paying 
 therefor about fifty cents. This permission to reside iu 
 Naples is now refused to Americans, whether on ac- 
 count of some quarrel with our representative hero, 
 (who I am told is iibsent) or whether on account of our 
 too liberal ideas, I know not. My passport was sent to 
 the American otfiee, and Mr. " 0. i\.lexander. Attache,'' 
 stamps the American eagle in my book and gives mo 
 permission to stay in Naples. I once heard an actor in 
 the Bowery Theatre declare, in a patriotic play, tliat ho 
 would "make the wings of the Americiui eagle his uni- 
 hrella^'' so I must try to consider one of these wings 
 
TJAPLES. Ill 
 
 TO}' " umbrella," and get shelter under it against all tlis 
 wind and water of tyrants. 
 
 Naples is beautifully situated, partly on a bill and 
 and principally on the level space at its foot, extending 
 to the edge of the Bay. To the left is Vesuvius, with 
 its two heads usually in the clouds, which seem to have 
 great afi'.ction for the crater^ and linger there when 
 the rest of the sky is blue. The extinct crater, or the 
 mountain where it is, is pointed at the top; then there is 
 a small valley, and tlie round head of the present burn- 
 ing mouutaizi rises higher in the air. When the v^'ind 
 is lavcjrable a thin white smoke is seen hanging around 
 it, changing its form momently. At the foot of Vesu- 
 vius is built the village of Fortici, over the site of the 
 ancient Herculaneum — but little of which is or can be 
 exhumed, unless the village is destroyed. Besides, 
 Herculaneum was buried in lava, which is so hard that 
 the streets of Naples are paved with square blocks of 
 it, which look and feel as solid as granite. Pomjjci, on 
 the other side of Vesuvius, v/as covered with ashes. 
 Great excavations have been made there, and smaller 
 ones are still in progress. From the rear of Vesuvius, 
 there sti etches a chain of hills along the shore of the Bay, 
 for about twenty miles out to the ocean, where they 
 eeem to terminate abruptly. Two or three villages are 
 scattered along them, and at their extremity by the sea 
 stands Sorento. From the farthest point visible you 
 bring your eye along the horizon to your right hand, 
 ten miles, and you see the island of Capri rising high 
 out of the water. Here the Capri wine is made. It 
 was to this Island, as I am informed, that Tiberius 
 used to come with a lot of wine, women and prisoners. 
 During his sprees he would throw a prisoner or two 
 down a cliflf eight hundred feet high into the sea, and 
 gloat over their death struggles. From the Island of 
 Capri to the main land on your right, hid from sight 
 by a range of hills which extend behind the city and 
 out in that direction, is about twenty miles; so that the 
 Bay of Naples is thirty miles wide w^here the sea 
 
112 NAPLES. 
 
 sets in ; and it is six miles wide from Vesuvius to the 
 range of hills on your right as you face the Island of 
 Capri ; which, itself, is fourteen miles distant from 
 Naples Along the face of the hills to the right, runs a 
 handsome road, the fashionable drive of the city. 
 From it you look down upon white villas and gardens, 
 and get a fine view of Vesuvius, the city and the Bay. 
 Virgil is said]to Le buried near this road I have not 
 yet seoa his tomb. Around the point of the hills, the 
 road leads to Bai©,, whith.er the literati of ancient 
 Rome used to come in warm w-eather. The Islands of 
 Ischia and Procidaare opposite this place. 
 
 The Bays of Naples, New York, and Rio are pre- 
 ferred, one by some, and one by another ; just as fancy 
 dictates. I e.Kpectcd to find the Bay of Naples full of 
 little islands, like Lake George; but the only Island 
 visible fromthe city is that of Capri. It is so much expos- 
 ed to the sea, that the only secure harbor is in a part of 
 the Bay which runs in past Vesuvius. If it is a hand- 
 Fomer bay than that of New York, I have j'et to be 
 convinced of it. That Vesuvius makes its scenery 
 more grand, I am willing to admit. 
 
 Naples is said to contain three hundred and si.Kty 
 thousand inhabitants. It does not look thus large; but 
 I presume the poor people lie six in a bc-d. 1'hese Ita- 
 lian cities must be much crowcied, for you see hardly 
 any country residences in passing through the land. 
 The streets are well paved. The houses mostly of a 
 pale yellow, or white, five stories high, with green blindsj 
 and ofren with balconies before every window. In 
 these balconies the ladies may sit with t.heir novels or 
 needle work, looking quite unconscious all the time; 
 yet they w^ould feel very wretched did they not sup- 
 pose the gentlemen to be gazing at them. The houses 
 generally have a neat outward look, far superior to 
 those of Rome. Naples does, indeed, look like a thriv- 
 ing city. There is more stir and bustle hero than in any 
 city I have seen, except Nevi^ York, London and Paris. 
 It is not the bustle of business. The Strada Toledo 
 
NAPLES. 113 
 
 (Toledo street) is the Broadway of Naples. Tho 
 crowds on the sidewalks here are so great, that it is 
 often difficult to make your way. Ttie shops look 
 quite stylish, much after the French fashion. The 
 tailors make great display, as do the jewellers, confec- 
 tioners, &c. A handsome silk hat, to all appearance 
 as good as the French hat, can be bought for one dol- 
 lar twenty-five cents. And kid gloves for fifteen cents 
 a pair. I have seen some well looking boots displayed for 
 Bale but did not ask the price. How these articles will 
 wear^ I cannot sa}"". At the doors of the bread shops, 
 you see bread hanging on nails and in all kinds of 
 shapes ; like hearts, krullers^ small loaves ornamented, 
 or in rings. The flower stands exhibit fine roses, great 
 clusters of them half blown and each as big as a hen's 
 egg. Fresh grown peas can now be had of the vegetable 
 merchants. Good plums, a little shrivelled from the man- 
 ner in which they are kept, are plentiful. Oranges 
 are, of course, a drug. A small Sicily or Malta orange, 
 with a thin skin is the best. Many travelling pedlars 
 go about the streets, with their wares upon their heads; 
 and their cries make the air resound. This, added to 
 the jingling bells worn by the flocks of goats continu- 
 ally being driven into the city to be milked, or out to 
 pasture, makes Naples full of sound. The street musi- 
 cians also, with horn, violin, guitar, &c., dancing as they 
 play; also Punch and Judy, who were created in this 
 region, squeaking in the streets, with multitudes of carts, 
 carriages, &c., make Naples a noisy tow^n. 
 
 There are some omnibuses of moderate size, and one 
 very small one, drawn by a single jackass. It is more 
 for show than use. There are some handsome private 
 carriages and horses. They have a cariiage here with 
 a top, seating two beside the driver, drawn by one 
 horse, which costs only twenty-two cents the hour. 
 But the drivare- always ask for more when the ride is 
 concluded. I see white oxen here ; an ox and a horse 
 often harnessed together and drawing amicably side 
 
 IQ* 
 
IJ4 N A r L E s , 
 
 by side. Asses are plentiful, and come into town com- 
 pletely covered up by the loads they carry. 
 
 None of the public buildings here are remarkable for 
 architecture. The king has two palaces in town and 
 soveral out of it. There are about twenty-lbur thous- 
 and soldiers here; but if they are no braver than they 
 were in '48, when tivo thousand Ivon^ans (equivalent to 
 seveu hundred and tifty Americans) made thirty thous- 
 and of then> with their King run for their lives^, they 
 are of little use. There are one or two foi'ts on tho 
 bill beliind and bcs^ide the town ; an arsenal to which is 
 attached a fort ; and a castle standing- out into the 
 water as Castle Garden does in New-Yoidc. What the 
 defences are out at the eutmnce to the sen, is of no 
 moment. The wide entrance cannot be pi'otectcd by 
 land defences. Naples is at the mercy of any maritime 
 power, each of which she provokes. A quarantine has 
 been imposed here without any reason ; France has re- 
 taliated by quarantining Neapolitan vessels, and Eng- 
 land has tlu-eatened to demand damages for all losses 
 sustained by her people in consequence of the quaran- 
 tine at Naples. J\[any travellers are kept away from 
 this city ; and tlie hotels are not half full. Yon can 
 live at a liotel here, as at Rome, for less than one half 
 that you arc obliged to pay at an English or French 
 hotel." 
 
 There is a most beautiful garden in Naples, close by 
 the water. It is called the I'i/ia Rcale; and is situated 
 somewhat like the Battery in New-York. There are 
 large grass-plots here, with grass^ green and thick ;. beds 
 of tlowers and shrubbery. There are also, green trees; 
 and among them the palm and cypress. Several foun- 
 tains, ornamented with groups of statuary, add to the 
 beauty of the g-ardens. Here in the broad \Yalks, 
 crowds are seen ever}' pleas^mt afternoon. The gard- 
 ens are not so large as those of the Tuilleries at Paris, 
 but their situation is tar more beautiful. 
 
 The climate here is variable though not cold. Flies 
 and musquitoes have been troublesome since I came 
 
NAPLES. 115 
 
 here, durin;> the warmer clays and nights. We often 
 take our meals with the windows open. It has rained 
 nearly every day for the last two months, but the 
 weather now looks better. 
 
 I had heard much of the lazzaroni of Naples, but I 
 can find no class answering the description given of 
 them in books. The fishermen with their red woolen 
 ca;)S, hanging in bags l;)y the side of their heads, and 
 the younger of them with bare feet, answer nearest to 
 my notion of the lazzaroni. I have seen no Masaniello 
 among them yet. Beggars are as plentiful hero as at 
 Pisa; and that is saying enough. Priests are not so 
 frequently seen here as at Ptome; but soldiers are more 
 visible. 
 
 Some of the streets of Naples are narrow and not 
 over clean ; though superior in that res})ect to Pome. 
 The finest street is that running past the public garden 
 above mentioned ; and in which are situated the principal 
 hotels. 
 
 There are not a great many vessels in port, if I g^- 
 ce\')t the feluccas, which prevail in the Mediterranean. 
 They are about the size of a North Piver sloop, with 
 a short mast ; and a long yard, one end touching the 
 forward part of the deck and the other passing tho 
 mast and stretching out into the air behind. The U. 
 S. vessel of war, the Saranac, is now in port. Some 
 surprise Was expressed that she was not dressed in 
 colors on tho 12th inst, the King's birth-da}^ There is 
 some bad feeling existing between the Neapolitans and 
 Americans. The two newspapers published here, are 
 of course allowed to say nothing about it. Like the 
 one published at Pome, they are muzzled. 
 
 One of the most curious sights in the streets of Naples 
 is the letter-writers, several of whom are seated at tables 
 near the post office and under the arches of the San 
 Carlo theatre. Here you will see an ignorant woman 
 or man, of the common order, sitting by these writers 
 and dictating letters which themselves are unable to 
 write. I have passed these letter-writers when they 
 
116 NAPLES. 
 
 were alone niul have observed tliem gonenilly at work ; 
 making out blank love letters, dunning- notes, threaten- 
 ing epistles and the like, so as to be ready for all 
 comers 
 
 The King of the " Two Sicilies" was at the opera on 
 his birth-day night; and the display, as I am told, was 
 very fine. Tb.e monarch acknowledged the repeated 
 cheers of an audience in full dress, b}^ rising and bow- 
 ing often. Ho is said to be a large man with a heavy 
 German face, and a sinister expression about the eyes. 
 The Queen his second wife, had her hair profusely de- 
 corated with jewels; as did also a common looking, red 
 faced woman, who sat near her ; and who though- 
 deucedly ugly, was what fools call " noble." 
 
 The opera here is not well spoken of. All the emi- 
 nent singers go to other countries where they are better 
 paid. Tiie haJlct iXwy tell me, is very good. But the 
 Queen insists that the dancers shall dress with — I do 
 not know what to call them — trowsers down to their 
 knees. This is a modest freak for this part of the world ; 
 but who shall say it is not correct ? 
 
 Tliere are several small places of amusement here, 
 besides the great San Carh; and the other day I saw 
 a sign over the door of a cirous shaped edifice, which 
 read ^^AnfUcatro Guillaume.''^ The San Carlo theatre 
 disputes the prize of greatness with the La Scala at 
 Milan. One of them is the largest theatre in the world ; 
 but iclddt., is the disputed point. I intend to have one 
 look at the interior of the iSan Carlo whenever they an- 
 nounce one of my favorite operas. The exterior of the 
 theatre is plain enough. The English, .French and 
 Italians make no such display as we do in the outside of 
 our places of amusement. And as far as 1 have seen, 
 their interior arrangements for the audience, are not so 
 comfortable as ours. 
 
 The Neapolitans, though apparently lazy, seem to 
 have a speculative turn. Lottery offices are frequent, 
 with the lucky numbers pasted outside the doors. 
 
 TL'e fishermen here are a numerous body; and their 
 
N A r L ]•; s . 117 
 
 many boats arc ranged in different places along the 
 shore of the bay. Whether they will ever be concern- 
 ed in another revolt, remains to be seen. Some Masa- 
 niello may yet arise among them. 
 
 I should say that the more common order of people 
 here are given to piety, ni least momentary. 1 have 
 Been them take otf their hats and kneel down in the 
 streets when a procession of priests ringing a tealiell 
 .and carrying f-oine imaginary sacred po])-gun, or other 
 toy, was passing tln\)ngh the streets. The better order 
 of people, as well at liome as here, are seldom partrdicrs 
 of these ceremonies; and ai-e not usually seen at church 
 unless there is some great show. 
 
 The churches here do not appear to be numerous; 
 and as I have heard notliing said of them by strangers, 
 I infer that their interiors are not so handsome or rich, 
 or gaudy, as these of some other Italian cities. 
 
 The hotels here as well as other Italian houses, have 
 no door-steps, but are entered directly irom the street. 
 What we should call the xicond Biory , is hei'e called the 
 first, and is considered the best. In the passage lead- 
 ing from the arched gateway into the square around 
 wiiicli the hotels are built, the otllces of the porters, 
 &c , are situated. " Tiie ]')orter or gatekcper at the 
 Hotel do Ij Univcrs, is a tall, spare man, tolerably well 
 dressed, and wearing a little cap which he is constantly 
 taking off as the guests ])ass in or out. A number of 
 seedy, idle men, are generally congi'cgated about the 
 dooi'S of Italian hotels; and lift their hats to all that 
 pass in or out. Some of these are guides ; and some 
 are anything you choose to make of them ; temporary 
 servants or valets. 
 
 The red wme is furnished here free, as usual, to all 
 the guests at table The grape having failed through- 
 out France and Italy last year, we are told that this 
 red wine is manufactured cf common Oatalonian stuff 
 and drugs; whether deleterious or not, I cannot say. 
 The red wine, generally, cannot be so hurtful a bever- 
 age as coffee ; and not so astringent as tea. It acts 
 
118 NAPLES. 
 
 most powerfully upon the kidneys. Both French and 
 Italians drink it freely. There is no intoxication in 
 it, unless you drink a hogshead. 
 
 The wines of Italy, liked by some, I do not fancy, j 
 have tasted a variety of them from curiosity ; as well as 
 many of those of France ; and I declare that none of 
 them are at all equal to Heidsieck champagne. 
 
 For some reason, we have a bad " exchange" h^re for 
 our money. The Eoman dollar, or scudo, worth ia 
 America ninety-seven cents, does not pass for so much 
 here as the Neapolitan piastre, or dollar, v/orth with us 
 eighty-six cents. The gold Napoleon, twent}^ francs — 
 worth in America, at par, $3.60, will only go here for 
 $3.30. And yet they say money is " tight" here ; and 
 a banker has just failed for half a million of dollars. 
 For what takes place in Naples, you must not attempt 
 to account by any known rules ; and the newspapers 
 here, being like the nexvspaper at Rome — nothing — you 
 must exercise great caution in sifting the floating news. 
 We have had rumors that Persia has declared war 
 against England; that Louis Napoleon has been stab- 
 bed ; and that nearly all the Mediterranean steamers 
 have been cast away. One of them did run ashore at 
 Leghorn. 
 
 Jayi. 28. — The Museum is not so large as I expected 
 to find it ; but contains many interesting objects both 
 ancient and modern. The bronzes from Fonvpei are 
 the most interesting. Many of them were blistered 
 and otherw^ise injured by the hot ashes by which they 
 were covered when the city was overwhelmed by the 
 eruption of Vesuvius; while others looked, as fresh and 
 perfect as if made a month ago, instead of having lain 
 for one thousand seven hundred years covered in the 
 earth. All the utensils, weapons, &c., were manufac- 
 tured of bronze. Vases, jars, jugs, cups, kettles, plates, 
 dishes, &c., have been exhumed in hundreds. The 
 candelabra, lamps, and various household articles ad- 
 mitting of ornament, are handsomely executed. Thers 
 are little bronze figures of men and animals, that evince 
 
NAPLES. 119 
 
 ^';reat skill. I saw many cups v.'Loso forms Lave been 
 imitated in modern crockery and china; and which are 
 considered b}'' judges asvery beautiful. One of the drink- 
 ing cups had a sharp bottom like that of the Vvine or 
 • water jar ; which m.ust have been a hint to the drinker 
 to drain his cup to the bottoin, as it could only lie on its 
 side. Steelyards and weights, fish- hooks and other 
 articles very like those now in use, were common in 
 Pompei. The agricultural tools also, would remind 
 you of Kome of those employed in modern days. An- 
 cient weapons and armor were taken in quantities from 
 the buried city. In one of the helmets lies a human 
 skull ; that of a soldier, who died with his armor on ; 
 and whose head is left precisely as found. Spears, 
 battle-axes, &c., are ranged along the walls of one of 
 the rooms of bronzes. 
 
 Many articles of bronze, whose uses are now un- 
 known, are exhibited in the museum. But there is 
 one, of flesh, whose uses are sometimes known, which 
 might startle the over sensitive. It is a human head, 
 apparently that of a handsome female, so preserved in 
 consequence of the situation in which she perished, that 
 every feature though, browned and scorched by heat, 
 is perfect in shape, except the eyes. This head is 
 enclosed in a glass case. 
 
 It is supposed that but few persons perished in the 
 fatal eruption of the volcano. Timely warning was 
 given them by the mountain before the great catas- 
 trophe took place. Those who were overwhelmed, 
 were most likely the sick and helpless; or those who 
 were engaged in an attempt to save their valuables, or 
 in plundering those of others. Some gold bracelets 
 and some jewels found in Pompei, are preserved in one 
 of the rooms of the museum. 
 
 A battle-scene between Alexander and the Persiftns^ 
 done in good mosaic, and forming, when found, part of 
 the floor of a hou^e in Pompei, is here exhibited. It 
 ■is well done, even when comj^ared with modern mosaic 
 work. 
 
1 20 P O M P E I . 
 
 The private gallery of Pompeian bronzes is now 
 closed and sealed b}^ order of the King. It used to 
 require an ambassador's order to see it ; but now it 
 cannot be inspected by any person. I am told that the 
 King shut it at the request of the Pope. This collec- 
 tion of bronzes, though executed in the highest style of 
 art, comprises subjects that prove boyoni all dispute, 
 Pompei to have been a most licentious and dissolute 
 city, deserving destruction. 
 
 There are several rooms in the museum tilled with 
 Etruscan and other vases ; and on which are depicted 
 scenes and incidents; with jars and table ornaments of 
 considerable value. I saw a. small vase which cost ten 
 thousand dollars, although its oi^parent value seemed 
 to me in comparison to larger vases purchased in later 
 days, to be about twenty-live dollars. 
 
 Some liaudsome Grecian and Egyptian vases, cups, 
 &c , were shewn, with colors as fresh as if executed 
 within a year. 
 
 There are lots of old picture;, in the museum, most 
 of wliich are in my estimation, mere "leather and pru- 
 nella." The Madonna and child, are of course to bo 
 seen in every room. If the Madonna could know whose 
 faces have been painted for hers, she would be grieved. 
 
 In the rooms devoted to statuary, are bronze busts 
 and statues from Pompei. There is a bust of "burning 
 Sappho," which makes her a good featured woman. 
 There is a statue of bronze, taken from Pompei within 
 a few weeks, which is spotted from the effect of the 
 hot ashes in which it was enveloped. 
 
 There is a gallery of ancient marble busts and stat- 
 ues, containing some very good specimens. 
 
 In the courtyard of the museum, are many fragments 
 of temples and other buildings, from Pompei and Her- 
 culaneura. Broken columns and capitals ; pieces of 
 statues, arms, legs or backs, and other interesting rub- 
 bish. 
 
 A few days after visiting the museum, I went with 
 three others in a carriage to see Pompei. The road is 
 
P O M P E I . 121 
 
 in the city for tlie greater part of the distance, requiring 
 two and a half hours; or rather, it runs through villa- 
 ges, now joined to the city of Naples, and passes within 
 a few, miles of Vesuvius. Herculaneum was in our 
 way ; but we did not stop, for there is but little of the 
 town uncovered ; and as it was destroyed by molten 
 lava which has hardened to stone, and is built over, it 
 will probably remain sealed with its corpses and treas- 
 ures, till the end of all things. 
 
 Leaving our carriage at the nearest public house, 
 we engaged a guide, who on being asked if he could 
 speak French, replied hastily out, oiii ! My mind mis- 
 gave me and I hinted to the party that he knew noth- 
 ing but oMz", oui ; and so it proved, for he understood 
 nothing but Italian. 
 
 We were first conducted to the amphitheatre, the 
 existence of which shewed the cruel and brutal nature 
 of the Pompeians, It is slightly oval like the Coliseum, 
 but of much smaller dimensions. Eows of stone seats, 
 rising one behind the other, and without backs, have 
 been uncovered. The arena covered v?ith green mould, 
 is probab'y near the spot where stood the floor of 
 the old circle, though not far enough below the first 
 range of seats to prove it to be in the exact location. 
 Too near proximity to the wild beasts would not have 
 been pleasant. We left the arena through the vaulted 
 passages underneath the boxes, or rows of seats, and 
 ascended to a vineyard now flourishing above a part of 
 the ancient city. The vines are here trained upon trees 
 of considerable age, with most of their tops cut off" so 
 as not to cast too much shade on the grapes. Green 
 wheat was seen growing luxuriantly between the trees. 
 
 Prom this place you descry a small valley, between 
 Pompei and Vesuvius, the crater of which is perhaps 
 four miles distant. Whether the twelve or fifteen feet 
 of ashes were thrown violently from the mouth of the 
 crater without falling into this vdley ; or whether the 
 ground there sank during the catastrophe, is not known. 
 From the vineyard, you see rich flats of land, once 
 
 U 
 
l2Si P O M P E I . 
 
 coverecl by the sea which receded at the eruption. 
 These flats are now well cultivated and seem very 
 productive. The ashes which covered Ponipei, mixed 
 probably with steam or hot water from the crater, now 
 look when dug into like a dark mould. 
 
 On getting- into the streets that have been opened, 
 you find them paved with ilat stones of various sizes, 
 whoso edges appear to have been left uncut, so that it 
 was impossible they should lie close together. This de- 
 scriptioa seems to answer for all the old Roman 
 pavements. Some of the streets were so narrow that 
 it must have been ditRcult, if possible, for two chariots 
 to pass each other; and in a few of them, the wheela 
 had wornri/ts four or live inches deep in the pavement. 
 Across the street, in several places, were hirge tlat step- 
 ping stones, far enough apart for the wheels of the cha- 
 riots to pass between them, and enabling the inhabitants 
 to cross comfortably in muddy times. Sidewalks, with 
 parts of their pavements of small white stones, are seen 
 in several of the streets. 
 
 The walls of the houses, still standing, vary from ten 
 to fifteen feet in height. I thiuk the houses must have 
 been but one story high, with flat roofs, on which the 
 occupants could sit or sleep in the summer nights. Aa 
 in modern Italian houses, there were no door steps; 3^ou 
 entered the house imanediately from the sidewalk. The 
 first room was the largest. As there was an opening 
 in the r.oof, there was to meet it a basin of marble, 
 about ten feet long and five broad, which was sunk 
 into the floor and received the water that fell from above- 
 From this "Impluvium'' the water was conveyed into a 
 cistern near at hand. These cisterns had white fluted 
 columnar curbs, about two feet high ; and the marks 
 of ropes or chains used in hoisting the water was visible 
 on their inner edges. The sleeping apartments and 
 other rooms, are very small ; and in a modern house 
 would be deemed very uncomfortable. On the walls 
 were fresco paintings of various scenes, of men and 
 animals; the colors being quite fresh. Acteon turning 
 
P O M P E I . 123 
 
 into a stag and being devoured by his own dogs, becausa 
 he saw Diana bathing; Ulysses and Penelope, and other 
 pictures, were easily traceable. These frescoes, or wall 
 paintings, seem to have been very common among the 
 Pompeians, and are in a remarkable state of preserva- 
 tion. Some of them are doubtless 2000 years old. The 
 colors with which they are painted, are not nov/ manu- 
 factured. 
 
 The floors of some of the best dwellings were adorned 
 with mosaic work. One of the battles of Alexander the 
 G-reat, now shown in the museum, and of considerable 
 size, was taken from one of the dwellings which we 
 entered. Before this house was a stone with the saluta- 
 tion "Ilave,''^ cutupjn it. Behind this house, as behind 
 all of any pretension, had been a small garden, or 
 ^'garden plot," of a square foi-m, and surrounded by 
 columns of white stone, or of brick stuccoed, and about 
 twelve feet high. These columns may have supported 
 a roof under which the occupants could sit; or may 
 have been set there merely for ornament. They Vv'ere 
 usually handsomely fluted, and with appropriate capitals. 
 
 The exterior of the buildings, composed of brick 
 coated over, stone or lava from former eruptions, either 
 could not have been, very handsome, or their beauty 
 was destroyed by the hot ashes that fell upon them. 
 In a street called the Street of Abundance, we entered 
 several shops, some of which had semi-circular marble 
 counters with large round holes upon their tops, in which 
 the tradesmen probably kept their merchandise. The 
 faces of several buildings were painted with bright 
 colors, now quite fresh, in checkers, showing them to 
 have been drinking shops. These checkers are used 
 even to this day in some parts of England to designate 
 alehouses and liquor shops. A small shop, known to 
 have been that of a barbc , from the implements found 
 there, had a square block of stone in the centre, on 
 which the customers sat during the operation of shaving 
 or hair-dressing. We passed through several streets and 
 visited various dwellings and shops. None of the latter 
 
124 P O M P E I . 
 
 were more curious than that of a baker, whose oven of 
 brick was very hke those of modern days. . There were 
 severalhandmillstobe seen. One of them was composed 
 of a large square block of stone, upon which was placed 
 a cone, also of stone, in which were holies wherein were 
 put the handspikes that served to turn it. 
 
 The houses of Sallust, Diomedes, the Tragic Poet, 
 (fcc, were known by the names and materials found 
 therein, and by the frescoes on the walls. This second 
 house is, I believe, mentioned m Bulwer's " Last Days 
 of Pompei." Opposite to it is a tomb with an inscription 
 upon it, shewing that it was dedicated by Diomedes. 
 
 All, or nearly all, of the roofs of the buildings were 
 destroj^ed, crushed in, and perhaps burned There 
 was a bathing house which we saw, part of the roof of 
 which, adorned with fresco paintings, as are the walls, 
 still remains. A circular marble tub, sunk iatoi the 
 ■floor, and about ten feet across, proves itself a cold 
 plunging bath. Near it is a room, once heated by fur- 
 naces, into which the cold bather hastened. There is 
 also a long tub of marble in which hot baths were 
 taken. 
 
 Besides the amphitheatre, there is a comic and also 
 a tragic theatre exhumed. Both of these theatres had 
 been destitute of scenery. A stone flat, or wall, some nine 
 feet high, in which were sevei'-al doorways, s-erved to 
 admit the actors who performed in a narrow space be- 
 tw^een the wall and the audience. The tragic theatre, 
 though small, is the largest. Steep and narrow stone 
 steps led up to the boxes, or seats, now destroyed. 
 None of these theatres had roofs. While in the tragic 
 theatre, a butterfly (in January !) flew in and; passed 
 leistTrely over our heads. 
 
 At the back of one or two gardens, as they appeared, 
 were very handsome fountains ; the walls behind taste- 
 fully-adorned with mosaic work. These Pompeians 
 must have been a luxurious, and most likely, an ener- 
 vated people. 
 
 /Some stumps of stone columns, well cut, were shewn 
 yp?. Here was a large temple to Hercules. 
 
P O M P E I 
 
 1^5 
 
 There was a small Forum^ surrounded by columns, 
 parts of which are preserved. The Temple of Justice, 
 or rather the remains of its large brick pillars, is near 
 it. The capitals are yet to be seen, and are of marble. 
 Marble fragments, once composing Temples to Venus, 
 Jupiter, &c., and the remains of a Pantheon, with /res- 
 coes on its walls, attracted our attention. 
 
 We came upon the ancient city walls, which were of 
 lava, and perhaps twelve feet high. Previous eruptions 
 of Vesuvius furnished the Pompeians with building 
 material ; all to be overwhelmed at last in one mighty 
 convulsion of the dreadful volcano. 
 
 The fragments of marble columns lying or standing 
 in various places, were nearly converted into lime by 
 the intense heat. 
 
 One of the most interesting parts of Pompei is the 
 Street of Tombs. On either hand, as you pass down the 
 paved street, are ranged tombs of marble, stone or brick, 
 containing the names of the unknown dead. While 
 my companions went down to explore some cellars or 
 catacombs, accompanied by a guide with a torch, I sat 
 down in this burial street of a deserted city, among the 
 broken tombs of a licentious race, who have left endur- 
 ing memoi'ials in bronze and stone of their degraded 
 habits; and I could not regret their fate. Di'iven out 
 to want and destitution, adversity may have corrected 
 their vices. The few that died may have been innocent ; 
 but the convulsions of nature possess no discrimin- 
 ation. 
 
 The excavations at Pompei can hardly be said to be 
 going on. At stated periods, they dig a httle at the 
 King's expense. The last memorial found there, was a 
 bronze statue, now placed in the museum. 
 
 Before leaving Pompei, our guide got into a quarrel 
 with one of the sentinels — for sentinels are stationed in 
 all public resorts, and public offices, in and about 
 Naples. A stranger would have supposed that noth- 
 ing but blood could stop the torrent of imprecations, 
 vociferations and ferocious gesticulations ; but having 
 
 1.1* 
 
' 126 NAPLES. 
 
 seen these disputes before, and knowing that they were 
 " all sound and fury, signifying nothing,"' I paid little' 
 attention to the noisy gabble. A Frenchman flies into 
 a rage, and does nothing but gesticulate and scold ; 
 yet the Italian, I think, is his superior in this sort of 
 warfare. 
 
 On our ride home, we had a good view of the large 
 Bay, with the Islands of Capri, Ischia and Procida, 
 The two latter cannot be seen fi'om Naples. 
 
 Old and blind beggars, or those pretending to be so, 
 with a staff in one hand and the other lying upon the 
 shoulder of a boy, ran beside the carriage begging. 
 
 We met several of the singular one-hoi-se, two-wheeled 
 carts, peculiar to this district, on which were piled 
 twelve or more persons ; a heavy load for a single horse. 
 An ox, a horse and a mule, harnessed abreast, or some 
 other team as singular, drawing immense loads, balanced 
 in a skilful manner, are common on the country roads> 
 
 Feb. Atli.—As it is not likely that I shall ever again 
 visit this part of the world, I feel a stronger desire tlian 
 ever to g^^ to the land of Egypt, which is but a few 
 days' sail from this. Although I can never be recon- 
 ciled to the motion of the sea, I would willingly endure 
 a little nausea on a voyage that led me towards that 
 mystic country. But, once in Egypt, I could not re'- 
 frain from Palestine ; once in Palestine, then ho ! for 
 Turkey ; and being in Turkey, to keep out of Greece 
 were impossible. All this comfortably done, would in- 
 volve an expenditure of nearly one thousand dollars, as 
 I am told ; and in the present state of my money mar- 
 ket, I should be forced to reply in notarial language, 
 when my bilh were presented, " Can't pay for want of 
 funds." So my mind is perforce made up, to go to 
 Paris by the weary Marseilles route in this February \ 
 thence to England, cold and wet as it must be in March^ 
 and so back to New- York in April or May. 
 
 I believe that lomter is as necessary to a northern 
 nian as it is to a northern soil. We have had some 
 weather here in January, during which the shade of a 
 
!f A P L E s . 177 
 
 tree was sought for. The sirocco wind blows over from 
 Africa and brings with it an enervating atnaosphere. 
 A warm winter is like a dose of medicine, good for an 
 occasion, but not as a habit. 
 
 The lotteries here are got up by the King of the 
 " Two Sicilies," who, it is said, orders prayers to be 
 offered up to the Virgin that none of the purchasers of 
 tickets may draw the capital prize. The people also 
 pray to the " blessed Vargin," for success; and when 
 they fail, call her all the bad women they can think 
 of ,A funny country, trul}'. 
 
 In Eome they roast coffee in the street; in Naples 
 they stuff their beds. You will see great loads of straw 
 in the street, and a number of men busily engaged in 
 filling beds with it. This would be considered rather 
 out of order in Broadway. 
 
 The Carnival began on the 17th of January, but it 
 has amounted to but little thus far. A few fellows, 
 dressed grotesquely, stop before the hotels, singing, 
 playing and dancing, until some coppers are thrown to 
 them; but such performances are nearly always to be 
 seen. The " Nobility" have given a series of balls ; 
 and the King one or two on Sunday evenings; but all 
 this does not make such a Carnival as you read or hear 
 of Are all travellers liars, or are they not ? is an open 
 question for debating societies. All I can say with 
 regard to this common propensity is, that if I fall 
 into the habit, it must be while entirely unconscious 
 of it. 
 
 The visible wickedness of Naples, I do not see much 
 of, even with spectacles. "We have received too many 
 of our accounts of continental licentiousness from 
 Enghsh books and newspapers. If I had stopped a mo- 
 ment for reflection, I should have decided, that as the 
 English have published so many wilful falsehoods 
 about America and the Americans, they must have 
 treated in like manner other countries not under their 
 control. Hereafter I shall receive all English accounts 
 of foreign countries with much distrust. 
 
128 NAPLES. 
 
 The post offices in Italy are not so perfect in theif 
 management as with us. I saw one of the clerks pla- 
 cing letters in the pigeonholes of the Naples post office, 
 and wondered how long a dozen like him would require 
 to assort one of the foreign mails arriving at New 
 York. He lifted a letter from the table — on which were 
 lying perhaps a dozen epistles — ^with both hands ; car- 
 ried it slowly to the boxes, placed it carefully under one 
 of the letters A or B perhaps ; paused and fell into a 
 reverie. Then he would take out the letter, look at it 
 again, and put it in another pigeon hole. This occurred 
 several times. Thesecret of his trouble was that these 
 were letters for foreigners and the names bothered him. 
 Letters with Esquire upon them, have been often 
 found under the letter E in Italian post offices. An 
 English Baronet, stopping at my hotel, his letters being 
 
 addressed to "Sir -, Bart.," has found 
 
 his mail in pigeon hole B. They set him down as Mr. 
 Bart. For two carUjias (fifteen cents) the post office 
 clerks here will allow you to enter the office and exa- 
 mine all the receptacles for your letters, v,hich they 
 are themselves conscious of having wrongly assorted. 
 All letters received here by the Marseilles steamers — 
 that is, the American, English and French mail — are 
 cut into with a sharp knife for the purpose of fumiga- 
 tion, so as to repulse all contagious diseases, 
 
 Maccaroni has always been considered one of the 
 national dishes of the Italians, but it is not seen much 
 oftener on the public tables here than it is in the New 
 York hotels ; but when you get it here, it is not so 
 dry, hard and indigestible. Maccaroni and meat are 
 fed to the soldiers. , Maccaroni is the food of the poor 
 peoplft. You may see it hanging up before the shop 
 doors on poles, looKing like youthful tallow candles in 
 process of dipping ; and not presenting a very inviting 
 aspect. It may be good food enough for natives, but 
 to strangers in general, it shows a desire to stop by the 
 way. 
 
 J hiave made a trial of the bygone far-famed Naples 
 
N A P E E S . 129 
 
 shaving soap, which once upon a time was imported into 
 America, and thought unequalled. It is a tolerably good 
 shaving paste, though not equal, I thinlc, to the Phila- 
 delphia shaving cream, sold by Chilson in Broadway, 
 New York, a few doors above Duane street. If I find 
 a better soap than that in France or England, I shall 
 feel it a solemn duty to chronicle the fact ; for the 
 man who is the cause of a pleasant sltave to one of his 
 fellow creatures, has, in my opinion, performed a good 
 action 
 
 Many of the Italian priests look very like. Burton, 
 the actor ; some resembling him in Aminidab Sleek ; 
 others in the jolly Captain Cuttle. In the garden of the 
 Villa lieale,iii'o\v days ago, I saw two priests in one of 
 the more shaded and secluded walks, sitting upon the 
 wall by the sea, with their legs dangling over the par- 
 apet as if they were boys, and smoking segars. This 
 jolly position, contrasted with their broad clerical hats 
 ftnd serious gowns, was comical enough. 
 
 Many of the monks and friars, with their shins bars 
 find dirty, are disgusting objects of humanity. Some 
 of them take upon themselves "vows of poverty," and 
 serve heaven, as they pretend to think, by becoming 
 squalid looking objects. No doubt hordes of these 
 creatures would be still poorer and more wretched if 
 left in their natural condition and out of the church ; 
 hence all of the lazy fellows get in who find it possible. 
 For their support, men as good are taxed severely; 
 and rendered poor, savage and snllen. 
 
 Superstition and the sword go hand in hand. This 
 fair land of Italy in American or English hands, w^ould 
 be a fruitful garden throughout It may be conquered 
 some day by a superior people : let us hope that it will 
 be by the Anglo-Saxon race. Italy, Spain, South 
 America, overshadowed and enfeebled by a bhghting 
 superstition, must, in the order of Nature, yield to 
 nobler people. France might become infected also to 
 the core and decline as fast, could religion, or supersti- 
 tion, get control of such a shifting, changeful people. 
 
130 P .E S T U M . 
 
 France, I take it, has got her proper government at 
 last. But as for this abundant Italy, when will her 
 quiet morning dawn ? 
 
 I see the prickly ba3'^oucts here in all directions. More 
 plentiful here than ever before. At every place, in 
 every street they glitter and pierce the air. Largo 
 companies of soldiers' continually pass through the 
 town. Paris was full enough, but here are more. Even 
 in England you see the regular in the streets and in 
 the places of amusement. Let all discontented Amer- 
 icans come to Europe and see how' it is governed. See 
 how the monarchs fear their siibjects. 
 
 "When the people of Europe again arise, they will 
 remember that mercy to despots is cruelty to them- 
 selves. Oti" with their heads! 
 
 " You may travel through Russia and Austria, with 
 ease;" said an Euglishnuin to me; "it would not bo 
 pleasant to us." " They fear the Americans," exclaim- 
 ed another. It is said that the Emperor of Russia 
 advised Austria to compromise and settle the affair of 
 Kozta (if that's his name); the Americans, said Ni- 
 cholas, will come soon enough without being sent for. 
 
 Tney are not afraid of our arms, but of our institu- 
 tions. America rises like a great Sun before the eyes 
 of the tyrants of Europe; and the one constant struggle 
 of their lives, is to keep out the rays of light which she 
 emits to all the earth. 
 
 Notwithstanding I am verging towards a 4th of July 
 oration, I believe I am writing the sedate and solenm 
 truth. 
 
 About sixty miles from Naples, beyond the hills that 
 stretch from Vesuvius to the sea, stands Pccstuni, — or 
 all that remains of it — three loneh^ temples in a desert. 
 There are models of them in the museum here; and I 
 have also seen engravings of them ; all of which make 
 them appear, as they are, more perfect than the ruins of 
 Rome. They are roofless, to be sure, but their hoary 
 skeletons stand like great mastodons in the plain. They 
 are alone ; no other vestiges of antiquity are seen. — 
 
PbZZUOLI. BAI^. 131 
 
 Home lias encountered the ruthless destroyer, Man; 
 these solitary temples the more gentle destroyer, Time. 
 The rain, the sun and wind have fallen on them for 
 centuries, yet there they stand almost as perfect as 
 they were on the day when they came finished from 
 the hands now turned to dust and ashes. 
 
 Some accounts make these three temples 4000 years 
 of age ; but I have all along been inclined to doubt this 
 statement. I have conversed with a man of good judg' 
 ment and good classical education, and he thinks them 
 to have been built by the Greeks about 500 years before 
 Christ. Their present condition and tlicir style of 
 architecture seem to prove this. I should be pleased 
 to see these relics, but it is doubtful if I do ; the journey 
 requiring two days and being performed only a part of 
 the way by railroad. 
 
 On a day so warm and sunny as to deserve the name 
 oihot to one clothed in winter garments, I Avent with 
 a party to Fozzuoli^ Bai(B, &c., lying off to the right of 
 Naples as you face the sea. We were prevented from 
 going the nearest road, which runs through a tunnel 
 in the hill, called the Grotto of Posillippo {a good place 
 for an assassination), because the king was going down 
 that way into the country to shoot the wild boar; — ■ 
 which, by the by, eats well but digests horridly. 
 
 Our road ran by the water for the chief part of the 
 distance, until it turned up the side of a mountain, from 
 which we got a good view of the Bay of Baise, which 
 is smaller and handsomer than the Bay of Naples. 
 The Romans liked this Bay ; and often anchored their 
 fleets in it. Its banks were lined with ancient villas, of 
 which there is now left but a few bricks lying level with 
 the earth. Some of these dwellings were built partly 
 in the water so as to receive the full coolness of the 
 6ea. Cicero, Virgil and Horace used to frequent this 
 Bay; and though the scene has now greatly changed 
 eince their time, it was pleasant to think they had been 
 here. It is really a beautiful little bay. Cape Misenum 
 and an island or two are in view; and beyond a bold 
 
132 B A I .E . 
 
 promontory, is seen the blue dome of Vesuvius. A 
 JRoman fleet lay in this bay wlieu the eruptioii occurred 
 which destroyed llerculaneura and Pompei. The elder 
 Pliny, or Captain Pliny, sailed over to Vesuvius to 
 witness the eruption and was strangled b}' the vapor. 
 AVe saw behind us coming over a hill, a troop of 
 cavalry which looked ver}' tine. It was the body giiard 
 escorting the King of the Two Sicilies. (They say 
 there is but one in the map.) Our carriage drew up to 
 the side of the road, and wg got out, not only for the 
 purpose of obtaining a good view of the monarch, but 
 for the purpose of offering the usual civility due by 
 strangers to the ruler of the country in which they are 
 sojourning. The Bourbon has a quick eye and soon 
 knew us for foreigners ; he is a polite man with all his 
 faults ; and his hat was lifted simultaneously with ours. 
 The guard mounted on beautiful black horses, dashed 
 past and were soon out of sight. The King rode with 
 two other persons in an open carriage, and drove very 
 fast. He appeared a little frightened. 
 
 '• Uneasy lies tlic lieatl that wears a crown." 
 
 By the side of the road we saw the remnant of the 
 Lucrine Lake. Here we got out again and went along 
 a path through the lields to see Lake Avernus. The 
 ground near us was covered by lizards who had come 
 out to enjoy the sun ; and a man came forward to sell 
 us bunches of fresh plucked violets, which gave us a 
 delightful perfume. 
 
 Lake Avernus is a pretty sheet of water. In America 
 it would be called a pond. It is nearly circular ; and 
 from the formation of its banks, it appears once to have 
 been a volcanic crater. The whole region is volcanic. 
 Monte Nuovo, which is near at hand, was heaved up in 
 n single night in the sixteenth century by volcanic force. 
 At one extremity of the Lake are the ruins of a Temple 
 of Proserpine. Near the Lake is the cave of the Sibyl. 
 I believe it is through this cave that Homer makes 
 Ulysses descend into hell. All the party but mj-self 
 ■^vent in and were nearly strangled by the fumes of the 
 
pozzpoLi. 133 
 
 torch that was carried before them. I don't like these 
 holes in the ground. 
 
 We went back to our carriage and stopped next at a 
 cave in the side of the hill called the Hot Baths of Nero, 
 The water down in this' cave is so hot, from the smoul- 
 dering volcanic fire underneath, that eggs are boiled in 
 it. 
 
 There are two or three poor looking dwellings in 
 Baiai, and a few scanty ruins, and that is all. 
 
 The Temple of Mercury is round and vaulted. Here 
 is a sort of echo with which people amuse themselves. 
 The 'temple is filled in with dirt; the ancient floor being 
 several feet under the present surface. 
 
 There was a temple of Venus, a round, high edifice, 
 much broken and mouldered. 
 
 There were some other small remains ; but taken as 
 a lot, we voted the ruins a humbug. 
 
 Some women followed us with their distafis and flax, 
 to see if they could not beg of us with success. There 
 are very few laborers in Italy who will not leave their 
 work to beg when they see a stranger approach. 
 
 After extending our ride somewhat further, we turn- 
 ed for Naples. Saw some galley slaves on the way, 
 getting out stone. They each had one hand and one 
 foot chained together, and were watched by soldiers. 
 The galleys exist now only in name ; but slavery is not 
 yet extinct. 
 
 At Pozzuoli it was where St. Paul landed on his 
 journey to Rome. We rode upon the ancient pavement 
 over which he is said to have walked. Near this town 
 is the temple of Serapis, part of which has been raised 
 and depressed several times, into and out of the water, 
 by volcanic forces. There is an old amphitheatre near 
 Pozzuoli, much larger than the one at Pompei. Also 
 a So/fatara^ or burning sulphur spring, situated in an 
 extinct volcanic crater. We saw a cart-load of broken 
 bricks on the hillside, which we were told were the re- 
 mains of Cicero's villa. 
 
 The grotto of Posillippo, begun by the ancients, has 
 
 12 
 
134 " NAPLES. 
 
 been enlarged until it is thirty or forty feet high and 
 wide enough for two carriages to pass. It is half a mile 
 long. It was quite dark in this hole in the ground, and 
 our driver continually cracked his whip (a practice of 
 Italian drivers) so as to give warning of his presence. 
 How the numei'ous vehicles therein were kept from run- 
 ning into each other, was and is a mystery to me. The 
 rock from which the grotto or tunnel is cut, is a soft 
 volcanic deposit. In a hill near Naples are ancient 
 catacombs cut out of this stone ; and said to extend for 
 ten miles underground. 
 
 Over the entrance to the grotto nearest Naples, some 
 sixty feet above the road, stands the tomb of Vii'gil. 
 The urn which contained the ashes of his body, burned 
 according to the Roman custom, has long since disap- 
 peared. The monument built by his immortal mind, is 
 yet visible in the world. 
 
 As I have spoken of the warm weather we have 
 been blessed with here ; I must also give you to un- 
 derstand that this climate is somewhat feminine. Up 
 the blue sky, with hardly a moment's notice, rapid 
 showers will run and discharge upon you. It almost 
 appears necessary for one here to imitate Paul Pry, or 
 Fitz Green Halleck, and carry an umbrella all the while 
 under his arm. Vesuvius, too, frequently poking his 
 nose into the clouds, has been covered with snow. But 
 the sun soon strips off his white over-coat. Blasts of 
 wind, such as we Americans feel in March, have swept 
 through the city. The other day I saw a poor little 
 donkey, covered up with an immense load of straw upon 
 his back, so that only a brown knob, supposed to be his 
 nose, and a black streak, supposed to be his tail,were vi- 
 sible. He was coming down a descent in the street, 
 rather smoothly paved. Whenever blasts of wind struck 
 his load of straw, he would stop suddenly and brace his 
 feet, so as not to be tipped over upon his nose. The 
 little ass had repeated use for his sagacity before reach- 
 ing the foot of the hill. Truly it has been said, " Straws 
 shew which way the wind blows." 
 
NAPLES. 135 
 
 February lith. — To get to the Campo Santo, or 
 Burial Ground, you are obliged to ride out a few miles 
 from Naples over as good a McAdamized road as the 
 sun ever shone upon. These European tyrants will 
 have excellent roads, cost what it may. Crossing a 
 square, surrounded by one hundred and two chapels, 
 you descend some steps of stonein to the cemetery, or 
 garden, for it looks more like a garden. Cypress and 
 other green trees cut into fanciful forms, some bent over 
 60 as to form verdant arches, are scattered through 
 the grounds. The walks are bordered with myrtle, 
 and the squares between ornamented with shrubbery. 
 A good many persons are buried here, of the middle 
 ranks of life, who could not afford tombstones ; and at 
 the head of each grave is placed a neat black cross. 
 Some of the tombs were in the forms of pyramids of 
 stone or white marble ; others were columnar and of 
 marble. I saw one ornamented with four hollow urns 
 of open iron work, into which hghts were placed.^, at 
 night. Some were shaped like temples ; and one 
 in particular, an exact copy of the Temple of Ceres at 
 Psestum, was well done. Over a number of the tombs 
 were built chapels of considerable size, either of marble, 
 dark stone, or covered with light yellow stucco. The 
 floors were composed of a substance hke that of a num- 
 ber of the shop floors in the Strada Toledo, and which 
 looks precisely like painted china. In some of these 
 chapels the bodies were buried in the side walls upon 
 shelves and hermetically closed up ; in others the 
 bodies Twere let down through square holes in the 
 china floors and deposited in shelves in the vaults be- 
 neath ; the square hole being closed by an iron plate. 
 One of these chapel-tombs was three stories in height, 
 and filled with little black crosses, signifying the num- 
 ber of dead within. In the interior of some chapels a 
 handsome lamp hung from the roof — and upon the 
 summit without, a black cross was placed. 
 
 You have a fine view from the cemetery — ^which is, on 
 the whole, handsomer than Pere La Chaise at Paris. 
 
136 NAPLES. 
 
 Vesuvius seems quite near, although., it is three hours 
 off, I copy one of the inscriptions on the tombstone of 
 a lady of rank, to show you how the Italians do these 
 things : 
 
 " Adantoinette Patornns Castelio, 
 De Duchessi de Caracci, 
 Bella Gelta Cyeutalo Religiosa, 
 CrLielano Consorta Incousolabile, 
 Mori Di Anno XXX, 
 
 WDCCC-XLV." 
 
 Afterwards I rode to the Campo Sa7ito for the poor 
 people, where, in an unadorned enclosure, are three 
 hundred and sixty-five pits in the ground, into which 
 the destitute are cast naked. It is intended thot one 
 of these pits shall be opened every day in the year for 
 the reception of the dead bodies that may be brought 
 there. As no person had been buried that day, I gave 
 the custode fifteen cents to open one of the pits for me 
 for the purpose of gratifying a horrid curiosity which 
 all feel who come here, and who have heard the tales 
 circulated respecting this Campo Santo. I hesitated 
 for a moment and then looked in, but could see nothing 
 but darkness. The guide said that he plainly saw hu- 
 man bones lying in heaps. 
 
 To get to the Catacombs, ^you are obliged to enter 
 the Church of St. Januarius, from whence you get to 
 the excavations by a side door. Here were places cut 
 in the sides of the rock for the reception of the urns 
 containing the ashes of the ancient dead. I saw some 
 bones by the light of the lanterns, which may or may 
 not be ancient bones, since the times when the Somans 
 burned their dead. These catacombs, they tell us, ex- 
 tend for ten miles under ground. They are waited up 
 not many yards frrom the entrance, and the assertion 
 cannot at present be disproved. 
 
 Near the church of St. Januarius was a poor-house. 
 Some of the paupers were sunning themselves in their 
 blue overcoats, and Jooked very comfortable. There 
 is another poor-house in Naples, so large and fine, that 
 I had mistaken it for one of the King's palaces. The 
 interior is said to be very neat and clean. "Whether 
 
NAPLES. 13T 
 
 the paupers here are of ''noble" families, or not, I 
 cannot say ; but the beggars in and about Naples, not 
 admitted to the poor houses, are exceedingly numerous. 
 
 I went into a room of the museum which I had pass- 
 ed on my first visit. Here were rings, brooches, brace- 
 lets, &c., taken from Pompei and Herculaneum. Some 
 of the bracelets contained three pounds of gold. There 
 were also artists' colors, spoons, figs, bread with the 
 baker's stamp upon it, and other things that had lain 
 for more than a thousand years under ground. 
 
 There is a hill behind my hotel upon which stands, 
 beside other edifices, a fortress called the Oastle of St. 
 Elmo ; a monastery and a very beautiful church. From 
 some of the windows of the monastery you get fine 
 views of Naples, Vesuvius, the bay and the surround- 
 ing country. From one balcony the city lies spread 
 out beneath you like a map. This balcony led out 
 from a small circular room, handsomely paved with 
 marble of different colors. There was a small hole in 
 the floor, to which the guide called my attention. A 
 table w^as placed here, at which the monks could take 
 their coffee and enjoy the "fine view," I asked him 
 what these monks or.priests did. He replied "nothing." 
 He said they were rich; had much land; and that the 
 people were taxed for them. He told me that many 
 of these priests were of the first families of the country j 
 aristocratic, but poor. 
 
 We passed through a room in the monastery, along 
 the walls of which were ranged benches. Upon thera 
 sat a number of monks, dressed all in white, with white 
 hoods upon their heads, leaning forward and chanting. 
 We went into one or two of the chapels and then into 
 the main body of the little church. Small it is, but the 
 most elegant room I ever saw. The floor was com- 
 posed of marble of all colors, formed into a mosaic of 
 large figures; the sides of the church were of mai'ble; 
 and the altar, with its candlesticks, lamps and ornaments, 
 was of the color of gold. The marble railing or fence 
 before the altar was specially beautiful. It was of opeii 
 
138 NAPLES. 
 
 work, of marble wreaths, flowers, &e., and tlie top rail of 
 elaborate desig-u, was ornamented by agate and lapis 
 lazuli. The ceiling was vaulted, and covered with pic- 
 tures. This church, called Santa INIartiiio, is attached 
 to the monastery of that name, and is the handsomest in 
 Naples. I have seen others more gaudy, but none so 
 chaste and beautiful as this. Feeling a curiosity to see 
 the Tomb of Virgil, I climbed a hig-li hill, and was led 
 to a sort of grotto in which stood a single slab. Upon 
 this the aistode placed his hand and said "Virgilio." 
 Humbug! nonsense! stutf! gammon! exclaimed I, and 
 ■walked ofl'. The custnde at first refused one carlina, 
 but at last consented to receive it, as he saw he was 
 not like to get more. Getting down the hill was no 
 easy work. 
 
 Punch and Judy perform here daily in the streets. 
 There is a long upright box with a man in it, and at a 
 window at the ton Punch and his wife hold their squeak- 
 ing" colloquy , which sounds as if the words came through 
 a penny whistle. They always get into a quarrel, as a 
 matter of course, and knock their wooden heads togeth- 
 er. The man concealed in the box, shews great skill 
 in the management of his puppets; but the language in 
 which he makes them speak, is unknown to me. How 
 easy it is to comprehend the London showman. " This, 
 ladies and gentlemen, is Daniel in the Lion's Den. St. 
 Peter is seen at a knot hole in one side, encouragin' his 
 friend Daniel to hold up. At the top voii may diskiver 
 Mr. Melchisadek, Mrs. Melchisadek and the little Mel- 
 ehisadeks, a enjoy in of his vo. Daniel carries a green 
 umbrella under his arm to distinguish him from the lion. 
 Besides, ladies ami gentlemen, you will observe that 
 Daniel combs his hair to the right, while the lion's is 
 combed to the left." 
 
 And to see how kindly the same shown:ian answers 
 the inquisitive httle girls who are looking at his Battle 
 of Waterloo. ''Which is the Duke of AVellington, 
 and which is Napoleon Bonaparte?" " Vichever ye 
 pleases, my little deurs ; ye pays yer money and ye has 
 your choice!" 
 
NAPLES. 139 
 
 To think of comparing Florence with Naples! You 
 might as well compare Perth Amboy with New York. 
 This pubhc garden walk, with its fountains, green trees 
 and grass, its snow-white temples and splendid sea view^ 
 is not excelled in any part of the w^orld. Besides the 
 groups of statuary by the fountains, the Dying Gladia- 
 tor, copied from that of Rome, and olher single statues 
 are scattered through the grounds. All here agree 
 that Naples is the pleasantest city in Italy. Those who 
 hke Florence best, are at liberty to do so. " They pays 
 their money, and they lias their choice." 
 
 So near Africa and yet no negroes. I have not seen 
 a "gentleman or lady of color," s-ince I came to Europe. 
 They prefer, or have- preferred, to emigrate to Cuba; 
 to which country they become very much attached. 
 
 The beggars in Naples are a persevering race. They 
 will follow you for a longdistance, begging in the most 
 doleful tones, and after having bid them vial via! (away, 
 away) in your most energetic manner, they will imitate 
 your voice and gesture, and leave you for the next 
 passenger. Their ragged dresses are curiosities. 
 Where so mtmy colored rags can be found, is a mystery. 
 Women, all in tatters, will cross you in the street, and 
 mock yon if you refuse their request. With some of 
 these people, beggary is a trade ; with others it is a hard 
 necessity. To discriminate, is impossible; to give to 
 all would require Rothschild's fortune. 
 
 The King has at last removed the quarantine. I 
 presume the French and Enghsh compelled him to do 
 so. It has been rumored that he intends to pardon all 
 political prisoners. la a castle which juts out into the 
 bay, there are dungeons under the water in which are 
 languishing at this moment many unfortunate wretches 
 who are inimical to the King, or who had the hardihood 
 to rise against his tyranny. If these men perish in their 
 dungeons, I hope the King of the Two Sicilies will be 
 haunted by their ghosts. 
 
 The King has several regiments of Swiss in his pay, 
 on whom he is said to place more dependQjoce than oa 
 
140 NAPLES. 
 
 his hrave Italians. They are dressed either with red 
 coats — hke the British, or in white, hke the Austrian 
 regiments at Florence. The dress of the Italian soldiers 
 here is very like that of the French. Red pantaloons, 
 and gray overcoats, puckered at the small of the back, 
 are in vogue. 
 
 There are several representations in wood of Christ 
 upon the cross, set up in different parts of the city. 
 Lamps are placed around these images and are some- 
 times lighted at night. The lower orders of people 
 sometimes stop before these figures and either pray or 
 cross themselves. 
 
 The boot-blacks also have their stands about the 
 streets, and the operation of boot polishing is always 
 going on. These fellows are always looking down at 
 your boots and soliciting your custom. 
 
 There are many fine horses in Naples. Most of them 
 .are black. But the horses "to let," are about on a par 
 with those of England, France and America, also to let; 
 and the drivers are obliged to hold them up "werry 
 hard," as Mr. Pickwick's driver did his horse, to keep 
 them from falling down. 
 
 I have been struck with the difference between 
 European and American " first class hotel" keepers. 
 Here, they touch their hats, or take them off", whenever 
 they meet you. They thank you for your custom when 
 you are about to leave; and hope to see you again. The 
 landlord or landlady, or both, come out to the carriage 
 and wish you '•'•boyi voyage?'' Now in America, it 
 is the hotel keeper who does you the favor in allowing 
 you to stop at his house. You may find him regardless 
 of your entrance, reading Godey's Lady's Book, or a 
 red morocco annual ; sitting on two chairs with a fra- 
 grant cigar in the corner of his mouth. In her draw- 
 ing room up stairs is the landladj^, with diamond rings 
 upon her fingers, languishing over a novel ; or perhaps 
 sitting upon a satin ottoman and tickling the baby's 
 chin with a ten dollar bill. Do either of these bid you 
 farewell at your depaiiure ? Lucky if you get an Irish 
 porter to briug down your baggage. 
 
NAPLES. 141 
 
 "Let independence be our boast." 
 
 We in America knuckle like other people to the 
 shadow of power. We show our tavern keepers de- 
 ference, because they Uve in large houses and are cap- 
 tains of companies of black or white waiters and dirty 
 scrubbing- girls. 
 
 Along one of the quays of Naples are stationed the 
 oyster sellers. They keep their oysters in the shell and 
 in pails of cold water ; and serve them raw to the con- 
 sumer. Some of the Englishmen think these oysters 
 very -good. But what can an Englishm.an know of an 
 oyster ? Let any foreigner eat of the little copper 
 bearded oyster of England for a few months, then die 
 and be dissected, and in him will be found a copper 
 saucepan, pex'haps. 
 
 Many of the English are here for aflections of the 
 lungs, or other disorders. It is worth your while to 
 see them eat. After fish and soup, four or five kinds of 
 meat carved into slices are handed round to the guests 
 at the table cVhote^ of all of which the sick Englishman 
 is sure to partake. Then come the " sweets," as they 
 are called — some sweetened flour or dough, a sort of 
 dry pudding. Fies are unknown. Then half a dozen 
 varieties of fruit, which the invalid Englishmen " walk 
 into;" moistening their dinner with a decanter full of 
 the gratis red wine. These men come to Italy and 
 live thus, for their healthy by advice of some bottle- 
 nosed London physician whose face is streaked with 
 port, ale and sherry. 
 
 My English acquaintances ask me often whether 
 America would aid England if Europe were to com- 
 bine against her. I answer yes, but I do not add that 
 America would first like to see England well pummelled 
 before coming to her assistance. The fact is, English' 
 men are conscious that their country has passed the 
 pinnacle and is going down the other side of the moun- 
 tain. She must follow the forced example of all other 
 nations and yield to a law of Nature. The sturdy 
 English after having abused and slandered America^ 
 
142 NAPLES. 
 
 are throwing out feelers ia their newspapers — actually 
 begging for aid, which they soon look to require. Ire- 
 land is restive and dissatisfied ; the colonies are writh- 
 ing under the abuses and neglect of the mother country. 
 And what would England be without her colonies ? 
 She is weak enough at home, tor I have heard intelli- 
 gent Englishmen assert that there is nothing to pre- 
 vent a Fx'ench invasion, whenever Louis Napoleon shall 
 determine on it. 
 
 How the English and French pull together in the 
 war in the East, we can only learn through the English 
 papers, or through '' Galignani" of Paris. If there are 
 newspapers here, no one sees them, or anything from 
 them. You, therefore, hear in America ot what trans- 
 pires in the East, quite as soon as we do in Naples. 
 
 I have been among the "bulls" and "bears" of 
 Naples. Their " Bourse" or Exchange is not a very 
 large room. About one hundred and fifty speculators 
 were there congregated, talking in little knots just as 
 we see them in Wall street. At the end of the room 
 sat two men at a table, who were occupied in the count- 
 ing of " hard money" which was used for the payment 
 of " diiferences." I do not know if the Neapolitans 
 have any stocks of their own to speculate in ; but I be- 
 lieve they often operate in the French and other funds. 
 Just now, there is a panic on account of the prospects 
 of the war, and the "bears" have it all their own way. 
 
 There is a girl who carries a basket of flowers in the 
 streets ; and who makes a dart at you as you pass her, 
 for the purpose of placing some of them in your button 
 holes ; and if she succeeds, you cannot be so ungallant 
 as not to offer her some copper coin. At Florence, there 
 were several of thes'e girls, one of whom was quite a 
 dignified looking damsel. 
 
 Occasionally before the doors of some of the digni- 
 taries, or before the dwellings of some who wish to 
 attract attention, you may sea a man dressed in a cocked 
 hat, embroidered coat, and knee-buckles, holding a staff 
 of office in his hand and appearing very like a turkey 
 
NAPLES. 143 
 
 cock. The studied attitude of some of these flunkies, 
 who seem to think that they themselves are got up at 
 " enormous expense," are quite amusing. 
 
 Crusty old bachelors and disappointed married men, 
 often complain of the clatter of women's tongues. Tho 
 same charge can be laid to the feet of many of the lower 
 order of females in Naples, who wear wooden soled 
 slippers with nothing behind to confine the heel, so that 
 they go rattling over the pavement with a noise not very 
 agreeable to a nervous person. 
 
 We have just had another "cold snap," the coldest 
 yet; being a pretty fair specimen of February weather 
 without snow. But on Vesuvius and the hills beyond 
 — which I believe are a spur of the Appenines, — there 
 has been considerable snow. Yet on the whole, I can- 
 not help comparing this climate to a sherry cobbler ; 
 very pleasant, but very weakening. Sultry days do so 
 limber one's legs. 
 
 In Naples, as in Eome, many of the shopkeepers ask 
 more than they intend to take for their goods, so as to 
 provide against the custom of *' beating down." Very 
 often they will take half the asking price, if they see 
 you about to move off without shovv'ing a desire to pur- 
 chase. 
 
 I have seen no paper money sin<:;e I came to Europe. 
 The Aar<^ currency is in general use. It is very hard 
 for the great mass here to get any of it. Although 
 the climate disposes one to laziness, and the producer 
 is devoured by taxes, many a man in Italy would leave 
 begging for work if he could get it. Happy Americans ! 
 you are ignorant of the blessings that have been shower- 
 ed upon you. 
 
 The mark by which the late revolutionists knew each 
 other, was a beard of a peculiar shape. The Neapoli- 
 tans are now forbidden to wear beards. They sport 
 the mousta<:he; and less resemble baboons than do the 
 people of other parts of Italy. 
 
 The King gave a ball on the 13th, at which the gentle- 
 men all appeared, by command, in knee-breeches and 
 
144 NAPLES. 
 
 silk stockings. He is to have a fancy dress, or masquer- 
 ade ball, next week. The average cost of the dresses 
 is about $50. Better give the money to the starving 
 poor. It would amount to a handsome sum. Some 
 silly Americans and Englishmen attend these balls. 
 
 In the country around Naples, a Jir tree with its top 
 shaped like an umbrella, is quite common. At a dis- 
 tance, it somewhat resembles the palm, and adds a 
 striking feature to the landscape. These trees also 
 grow near Home. 
 
 The Island of Capri, situated just where the Bay of 
 Naples joins the sea, is about six miles long and three 
 broad. It contains between one and two thousand in- 
 habitants. Vineyards are common, for here the Capri 
 wine is made. On the Island resides a son of the Hon. 
 Mrs. Norton, the English poetess. He fell in love with 
 a peasant girl ; poor, lively and pretty; and he became 
 so " far gone" as to turn Roman Catholic and marry her. 
 He lives in a humble way. 
 
 I have been to two of the Theatres. The " Teatro 
 Nuovo" is of a moderate size and quite plain. The 
 fronts of the boxes are of a cream color and without 
 ornament. A soldier with a fixed bayonet stood beside 
 the door. The box-keeper followed us to get pay for 
 the " cushion," or seat. First you pay for your ticket; 
 then the box-keeper must have his perquisites. A small 
 comic opera was performed. The singei^s also were 
 small ; that is, they were not great. My companion 
 was an English clergyman ; who unlike some of our 
 divines does not believe a well conducted theatre to be 
 the portico to H. R. H. Beelzebub's palace. 
 
 The San Carlo is said here to be the largest theatre 
 in the world. If is attached to one of the King's palaces 
 in the heart of the city; the palace at which the mon- 
 arch is now residing. An armed soldier stood before 
 the door, and two or three more inside. The house 
 looks plain outside. Inside it is large, but not tremen- 
 dous. Their are six tiers of boxes, but they are nearer 
 together than ours. The boxes are small and are se- 
 
MOUNT VESUVIUS. 145 
 
 f)arated from each, other by close partitions so that the 
 adies cannot be seen by all the house — which I presume 
 they don't like. The fronts of the boxes are tastefully 
 gilded and are not gaudy. Tlie King's box rises up 
 through two tiers. It is ornamented by gilded curtains, 
 surmounted by one or two large gilt crowns and a cross. 
 Upon the ceiling is a large painting, representing a 
 scene in the life of Christ. A handsome chandelier de- 
 pends from it. There is no picture on the drop curtain, 
 which is figured like paper hangings. The seats in the 
 pit are divided so that you can rest your arm and not 
 be crowded. There are four places where you can put 
 your feet : on the floor, on two shelves made for the 
 purpose, or on the dresses of those before you. The 
 latter would be preferred by some of our theatre goers. 
 The prices are about the same as at the American 
 theatres. The performances were mediocre. All the 
 theatres are open on Sundays. 
 
 You will observe that my letters are getting miscel- 
 laneous; which is a sign that I have but little more to say 
 about Naples. An account of my getting up Mount 
 Vesuvius is crowded out of this epistle. It shall come in 
 my first letter from the Grand Empire of the Frogs. 
 
 On the 18th if the weather is favorable, I design to 
 sail for Marseilles. If so, I may hope to reach Paris 
 about the 26th inst. If I find no more entertainment 
 in Paris than I did in my first visit, I shall remain there 
 but a few days. 
 
 Feb. 17 th — Ascent of Mount Vesuviu?, — I have 
 determined in my own mind that none but fools, robbers 
 and goats, ascend mountains. I have been up Vesu- 
 vius. Please place me under the letter F in the first 
 class. 
 
 I hired a one-horse waggon, with an extra horse 
 hitched in some queer manner by the side of the other, 
 both of them wearing little bells upon their harness in 
 the Italian style. I also engaged a guide who could 
 speak a very little English, and whose breath was so 
 consolidated from garlic eating, that it came out of his 
 
 13 
 
146 MOUNT VESUVIUS. 
 
 mouth in pegs ; and T felt an incliaation to hang my 
 cap upon it. Had I done so, as he was quite small in 
 person, he might have supposed that I wished to ex- 
 tinguish him, and give me the taste of a knife, after the 
 custom of the country. The little man had a large 
 cold and carried three pocket handkerchiefs ; one white, 
 in an outside breast pocket, for show ; and two colored 
 ones ; one of which he always held in his hand when 
 not engaged in taking snuff. 
 So with a perfume not like 
 
 " Sabnean odors from the spicy shores 
 Of Arabj' the blest," 
 
 floating around me, I set off at half-past eight in the 
 morning. The usual method of going to Vesuvius, is 
 to take a carriage to Resina; there mount ponies and 
 ride several miles to the foot of the cone. As I am no 
 equestrian, I determined to have my carriage go all the 
 way to the Hemnitage. 
 
 Vesuvius was in sight all the way. In fact you al- 
 ways see him from every quarter. His back ground 
 was now a beautiful blue sky. The white smoke curled 
 and wreathed about his hoary head like gray hair lifted 
 by the wind. 
 
 Vesuvius appears, at a distance, like a double-headed 
 mountain ; but, on a near approach, the mountain to 
 the left resolves itself into a cluster of hills, among which 
 the road has been cut in the volcanic mud-ashes or sand. 
 The cuttings presented layers thrown out at different 
 belchings of the distant volcano. A geologist might 
 have descried in the disordered strata, " layers," " faults" 
 and "dikes." 
 
 From this elevated, winding road, a beautiful view 
 of the world below,was enjoyed. The bay was like an 
 enormous sheet of polished steel ; and at one end of it 
 Naples and its white villages formed a bright cresented 
 border. Behind the city, the open country stretched far 
 away, spotted with white houses. The hills on my left 
 were capped with snow and sent cool breezes to temper 
 the hot sun. 
 
MOrNT VESUVIUS. 147 
 
 "We passed some vineyards, separated from the road 
 by stone walls, built of fragments of lava ; some of 
 which had been ejected, or had run down in a liquid 
 state, eight or ten miles from the crater. As we ap- 
 proached still nearer, whole fields of rough and broken 
 lava were seen. 
 
 The road of sand and ashes was heavy for the horses; 
 and before reaching the Hermitage, our extra horse 
 baulked and gave out. The guide and myself walked 
 about a mile, to the Hermitage, which is an old white 
 stuccoed building, with a church room attached to it, 
 and is inhabited by a single monk. There is an observa- 
 tory for astronomical purposes near the Hermitage; and 
 beyond them there are no other buildings. 
 
 We now had a walk of two miles before us, over a 
 rough path leading through the debris of lava and 
 fields of sandy ashes. Just before reaching the foot of 
 the cone, we saw to our left a precipice of volcanic earth 
 and lava, about thirty feet high running along the bor- 
 der of a level which extends round part of the present 
 volcano. This was once the crater; and from it, as 
 the guide informed me, Herculaneumand Pompei were 
 destroyed. 
 
 The hard lava around us having been thrown out in 
 a liquid state, was twisted into various forms, present- 
 ing a disagreeable surface to walk upon. 
 
 The government guide or " servatore,'''' who is oblig- 
 ed to go up with all strangers, to prevent robbery and 
 murder had followed us from Eesina ; and three or 
 four men came after us from the Hermitage. These last 
 were those who assist, or carry those that desire it, up 
 the cone. 
 
 There are three methods of going up ; first, if you 
 have a quick eye, a vigorous frame, and have been 
 used to climbing hills, you may take a staff in your hand 
 and get up in an hour ; second, you may be pulled and 
 pushed up by four men with ropes or straps; third, you 
 may ride up in a chair fastened to poles and carried on 
 the shoulders of four men. The latter method is fallen 
 
148 MOUNT VESUVIUS. 
 
 into by the ladies, and all fat or lazy men. I had been 
 advised not to try the first plan, but I did and failed. 
 I was told to walk in tho sandy ashes into which I 
 sank at every step. The men followed me with a chair, 
 and kept saying in their poor English " You are very 
 much fatigue; get in." But on I went, stafi in 
 hand, the perspiration running dow^n my ears, and 
 making a water-fall — nearly as large as those of 
 Europe — from the bridge of my nose. The cool wind 
 came down from the mountain and I buttoned 
 my overcoat. The internal heat under my flannel 
 threathened an eruption, and I unbuttoned it. I sat 
 down and rested ; got up and went on. Looked up 
 at the steep ascent, and found, at the end of fifteen or 
 twenty minutes, that I had made but little impression 
 on it. There was a great deposit of rough lava to 
 cross. " Better," said my private guide, " give four 
 dollars for de chair than fifty dollars for cle medicine." 
 This was coming " home to our business and bosoms." 
 When nearly used up, the men fell to three dollars for 
 the chair. I got in, was lifted on their shoulders, and 
 the procession moved on. My body described an 
 acute angle, as my back and sides could testify. Veiy 
 acute. My legs pointed threateningly to the sky like 
 a pair of three-pounders,, as if from the side of Vesu- 
 vius — one of the chimneys of hell — a new war was to 
 be waged against the heathen gods. The angle now 
 grew more acute. " Stop ! wait ! hold on ! let me 
 out 1 " but they w^ould'nt ; so I let myself down be- 
 tween the poles. 
 
 I began to think that I should not see the crater, 
 but the other plan was now adopted.' Two straps 
 were fastened to a stick about five feet long, and two 
 men in front drew them over their shoulders. I took 
 hold of the stick with both hands, two men pushing me 
 behind, at the imminent risk of the pride of my trows- 
 ers. They soon abandoned what General Scott would 
 call the "fire in the rear," and attacked my wings; 
 that iSj they pushed me by the arms. We now turued 
 
MOUNT VESUVIUS. 149 
 
 off among the rocks of lava. I verily believe I had 
 been made to walk in the ashes so as to tire me out. 
 Even now the labor was great. I have endured 
 nothing like it for twenty-five years. The perspira- 
 tion oozed, boiled and bubbled. I sat down several 
 times to rest, as did the men. A man had followed 
 us with a basket of refreshments. The orange here 
 was delicious. Get red hot and try one. At a quar- 
 ter-past one we reached the top. 
 
 I saw before me an old crater, nearly filled in, 
 and -surrounded by low hills. Forty or fifty heaps 
 were smoking like lime kilns. Near one of them sat 
 a party of travellers discussing their provisions. "We 
 passed through this crater and ascended to the brink 
 of the last volcano, in eruption four years ago. Its 
 rim is higher upon the further side than from whence 
 you get your first view of it. I looked in and saw 
 the smoke issuing from many places in the sides of 
 the crater, as if there were smouldering fires beneath. 
 Smoke also issues from the top of the rim, in spots, and 
 from the outside. None seems to come from the bot- 
 tom of the crater, one hundred feet or more below; which, 
 they say, is closed up. The shell of the cone is 
 probably hollow, or the earth very porous. In some 
 of the smouldering places the heat is so great that they 
 roast eggs there. Some persons think that this heat, and 
 in fact all the smoke in and about the crater, is caused 
 by the amalgamation of the mineral deposits thrown up 
 from below. This is doubtful. You may descend 
 part of the way down the cone, but I think it is a 
 silly experiment even with a guide. Some wish to 
 bring away pieces of the yellow sulphur coated stone 
 spread about the crater, I sent a man for a piece, 
 which is worth just as much as if I had risked strangu- 
 lation or an everlasting fall to get it with my own 
 hands. 
 
 I have been told that when the wind is favorable 
 and the smoke is blown aside, it is quite a pretty 
 sight to see the various colored deposites, red, yellow, ' 
 blue, Soc, which line parts of the crater. 
 
 13* 
 
150 MOUNT VESUVIUS 
 
 The crater is, perhaps, two hundred and fifty yards 
 across. Some assert its diameter to be five hundred 
 yards. It is all a guess. The thing itself, when you 
 come to know that it is stopped up below, is not so 
 very awful to the thought, even if the bottom is not 
 visible. It may be worth the physical exertion neces- 
 sary to see it, but I shall not try it again. 
 
 Two persons, one an American, were killed here 
 four years ago while witnessing an erujDtion; and others 
 have lost their lives at difi"erent times by the falling 
 stones. 
 
 I turned to go across the old crater, by the way we 
 had entered, and so make the descent — or go " down 
 stairs"' — as my little guide phrased it in his imperfect 
 English. Met some ladies who had been brought up 
 in chairs, accompanied by some gentlemen. It would 
 be dangerous to go down over the broken lava ; so you 
 are taken to a layer of ashes near by, and go down 
 on your heels in about ten minutes — a sort of slide — 
 the ashes up to your ancles. Sometimes your foot 
 touches a concealed fragment of lava, and you are apt 
 to fall headlong ; but there is generally no harm done 
 as you are received on the sandy ashes. I had worn 
 an old pair of boots for the occasion, which were torn 
 front and rear and became yellow like sulphur. When 
 they were shown to mo nest morning, 
 
 " Sure such a pair wers never seen." 
 
 They had soles to be saved, but I do not speak solely 
 on that account ; for esteeming thfem as we do men, by 
 their worth, they were not worth much. It were a 
 bootless -task to grieve over them. 
 
 After leaving the foot of the cone, I met a lady on a 
 pon}'" ; and after Her, on another pony,a fat English- 
 man.- They had to " chair" that " honorable member," 
 I'll be bound. 
 
 As the half of our road home was down hill, and the 
 rest of it over well paved streets, driver, to earn his 
 " bono mano," extra money, for being a "good man" 
 and giving satisfaction — drove very fast and put the 
 
NAPLES. 151 
 
 people in danger. Turning a slaoi't corner — and these 
 waggons have forward wheels so small that they pass 
 ■under the vehicle — he ran against a poor little ass. I 
 used energetic language, but he did not understand it. 
 These poor donkies, with their winking e3'es, appear 
 half asleep ; they pound them and kick them, cruelly; 
 and all the while they seem to say, like Sterne's ass, 
 " Don't beat me ; but if you will you may." 
 
 There was a procession of friars or monks going to a 
 funeral. They were all in white, their faces being 
 covered also with white cloth, with two black holes for 
 their eyes. They looked ghostly enough, but the driver 
 puslied his team hard on their flanks. As we passed 
 the door of a hotel, a carriage coming out of the court- 
 3^ard. nearly ran its pole into us. My little guide, box 
 and handkerchief in hand was "up to snuff "and ducked 
 his head to avoid the blow. 
 
 Two days afterwards, I engaged the same little man 
 with his viacaboy and pocket handkerchiefs, to accom- 
 pany me on another volcanic excursion, to the Solfatara 
 on the other side of Naples. The weather was pleasant. 
 You may guess at it when I tell you that as I came out 
 of the hotel a new comer was ordering a musquito net 
 to be put on his bed. We passed through the grotto 
 of Posillippo ; and I asked the guide if it was not very 
 old. " 0, yes ; very old. One thousand, fifteen hun- 
 dred, two hundred years." Our road now ran through 
 vineyards for two or three miles until we reached the 
 classic bay of Baise, upon v^'hich the sun cast a silver 
 path that went throbbing a|t our side. Upon our right 
 was a lava mountain. Convicts were here quarrying the 
 lava to be sent to Naples for building material. They 
 were distinguished by different dresses One man had 
 struck a knife into another but not killed him. Another, 
 who came near us, holding up his chain in one hand, 
 and stepping out as loftily as if he were free and un- 
 shackled, had killed a man and was here for a long 
 term of years I asked if murderers were not hung. 
 *' Only when they kill tree men ; then they shoot him 
 or cut off de head." 
 
152 NAPLES, 
 
 Observing my guide turn in his seat and look at a 
 country girl who was sitting on a low stone wall, I ask- 
 ed him if he was married. He replied "Yes," and 
 returned the question to me. I said "No." "Ah," 
 said he, "dat is best ; you better stay as you be." This 
 advice from my snuffy little companion was not to be 
 sneezed at. He has had experience; he has been 
 scratched by the rough corners of matrimony. 
 
 We passed some men working in their green gardens, 
 here, in the month of February. 
 
 After riding through the outskirts of Pozzuoli, I 
 asked the guide where that music was that I heard. 
 He replied that it was the bell of the church calHng the 
 people to "mess" (mass.) This "sweet bell" was not 
 "jangled out of tune and harsh." 
 
 We came to a gate where fifteen cents were to be 
 paid. This admitted us to a circular crater of antiqui- 
 ty, much larger than Vesuvius, and surrounded by hills 
 fifty feet high. This crater like others had stopped it- 
 self up, and trees and grass grew on its floor. Horses 
 were grazing freely where there had been mighty con- 
 vulsions of Nature. A boy who had come in with us, 
 lifted a stone and threw it on the ground, which gave 
 back a hollow sound. Underneath ran the stream of 
 hot water which came from the spring. The Solfatara 
 was at one side of the crater and blew off its steam 
 with precisely the same sound as does a North Eiver 
 steam-boat. We descended a few steps and looked into 
 the chasm. The vapor came out with considerable 
 force ; and the rocks above were colored with the yel- 
 lowest of sulphur. The stones near the chasm were 
 quite hot. The odor emitted by the spring, was power- 
 ful. Here on a small scale, was a living volcano, com- 
 municating, most likely, direct with the infernal regions. 
 
 On our return to the carriage, the guide pointed out 
 a wall of thin ancient brick, and stones six inches by 
 three, now surrounding a vineyard. This was a Eoman 
 reservoir. Its mason work if described by Byron, 
 would appear very beautiful, no doubt; but it can no 
 
THE MEDITERRANEAN. 153 
 
 more compare with that of the Croton Reservoir, than 
 the King of the Two Sicilies can compare with G-eorge 
 Washington. 
 
 Feb. i8th, 5 p. m. — On board the "vapore" ship 
 "Vesuvio," of "300 Cavalh; (horses) Commandante, 
 Pietro Cusmano." 
 
 Off at last. A police officer has just checked off the 
 
 passengers, styling me "Signer Stranger h^om. 
 
 Etats r7?m;" which is more like French than Italian. 
 
 Our agent, Robert Dale Owen, has made no charge 
 for my passport (though the police have) ; and I must 
 in justice add, that our man at Rome was equally liberal. 
 It is unusual to see American representatives abroad 
 doing something for nothing. 
 
 Vesuvius has covered his head with clouds ; but I 
 have no doubt the crater is smoking out of one side of 
 his mouth, hke a Bowery boy, with an air which seems 
 to say — If you want anything, I'm your chap. 
 
 The crescent-shaped Naples sinks into the sea as we 
 pass Cape Misenum and run between Capri and the 
 main land. Now we feel the wind ; now the little 
 narrow vessel rolls ; and now, because not more than 
 half the passengers can eat, they prepare the dinner 
 table. Five of us, out of perhaps fifteen, ate a little, 
 but it went "against the grain," 
 
 "Once more upon the waters, yet once more; 
 And the waves bound beneatli me as a steed 
 That knows its rider." 
 
 And is determined to rile him if he can't shake him 
 off. And I am riled. Sea-sickness has squatted on a 
 quarter section of my body. Will he yet cover the 
 whole township ? 
 
 " I'm on the Sea, I'm on the sea ! 
 
 I am as I would ever be, 
 
 With the blue above and the bhic below." 
 
 That fellow was blue above and blue below. 
 Thoroughly drunk, I should say. 
 
 A very small cabin, with benches or bunks. Laid 
 down in my boots and overcoat, it being cold. Pans 
 were placed near us, and one or two gentlemen went 
 
154 THE MEDITERRANEAN. 
 
 to work under the influence of sea-sickness. As every 
 thing could be seen and heard, this was not pleasant. — 
 The "Vesuvio" rolled and pitched ; the waves hammered 
 against her sides, but she was of English manufacture, 
 though owned by Neapolitans, and I had confidence. 
 The sick passengers enlivened the time; I could not 
 sleep ; and the night was long and miserable. 
 
 \9th. — At half past 9 in the morning we put into 
 Civita Vecchia, the only port at which we were to 
 touch. One of my countrymen a baker of pies and 
 cakes in New- York, left us here on his way to Rome. — 
 He had traveled in the East with the "gentleman from 
 Ishp," (of whom I have previously spoken) and Mr. 
 Prime of the "New- York Observer." He thinks 
 Egypt, Syria and Turkey — more especially dirty Con- 
 stantinople — quite a "sell." Whether he has been to 
 the East to establish agencies for his "pies and things," 
 I did not ask. 
 
 In about two hours we put off to sea again in the face 
 of the gale. Breakfast was another failure. I did not 
 ask the steward for bread and get a stone ; but I asked 
 him for an apple and he gave me aqua (water.) I then 
 made a ring with my fingers and said "apple — fruit." 
 This got through his Italian skull. 
 
 The deck was wet with rain, and I rolled myself in 
 my travelling shawl and lay in the saloon. 
 
 Afteimoon. — The sun is out. ^ The shore of Italy is 
 on our right ; the Italian Captains in these parts al- 
 ways hugging the land. A small vessel is sailing close 
 in shore. She is directly opposite the sun, and her sails 
 shine like silver. To our left were two small islands. 
 The wind now rose before us with a black cloud. It 
 screamed in the rigging, sounding like the cry of 
 the tempest in a bare winter forest. As the blast 
 flew past it tossed white feathers to the waves, and they 
 rose and stirred their heads like proud women. The 
 epray whirled along the vessel's sides, like dust from 
 the hoofs of the wild Arab steed ; and large pattering 
 drops fell from the dark cloud like tears upon us. 
 
MARSEILLES. 155 
 
 1 must let myself down ; so will only remark, in con- 
 tinuation, that it was " darned" disagreeable. 
 
 Dinner at six. No go. Turned in to roll, roll, roll. 
 Ship trying to dip water, 
 
 " Rocked in the cradle of the deep," 
 
 Though men are but children of a larger growth, 
 some of them do not like such gigantic nursing. 
 
 2^th. — Morning. Sun elbowing his way through 
 hills of clouds behind us ; the shore of Italy on our 
 right ; the sky clear before us and adorned by half of 
 a tin moon. 
 
 I have not yet given in to sickness and feel that I shall 
 not. Reason — took medicine before leaving Naples, 
 and put my stomach on "a footing with themostfavor- 
 ed nations." 
 
 As breakfast is at ten, I asked the steward for a 
 cup of coffee. I drew on his stock of English, but he 
 was able to meet the demand, and said " by, by." 
 
 After a trifling breakfast we ran between the coast of 
 France and some small islands, names unknown. When 
 out of the shield of these islands, the gale once more 
 attacked us, fiercer than ever. Some of the waves 
 leaped from the sea; others butted their heads against 
 our little ship and covered the decks with water. More 
 islands ahead to our left; while on our right rose a wall 
 of white perpendicular cliflFs. I could now " define my 
 position ;" we were nearing Marseilles. The wind 
 blew so stifBy that I could hardly stand upright. The 
 " Vesuvio," lying on one side, cut her way through the 
 white caps, straight as an Indian's arrow to a penny in 
 a split stick; and at five P. M., the anchor whizzed 
 into the water and held us fast in the harbor of Mar- 
 seilles. 
 
 A custom house officer came on board ; I opened a 
 carpet bag ; he thrust in his hand for a moment ; told 
 me to lock it up, asking or expecting no bribe. A tall 
 good looking fellow he was, with those immense red 
 French trowsers. 
 
 I went down into a boat with others and was rowed 
 
156 MARSEILLES. 
 
 to shore. Here I again opened my " sack," as the 
 French call it, but was immediately let go on saying 
 that I had no tobacco. I went to my old quarters at 
 the Hotel des Emjicrenrs; shaved and washed my face, 
 which had not been washed in three days, because there 
 was no place appropriated for that purpose on the boat. 
 But tiiat was nothing, for the Italian ladies never wash 
 their faces for fear of spoiling their complexions. They 
 'icipe away the dust. 
 
 Marseilles, Feb. 21. — "Went to the custom house for 
 the rest of my baggnge, and was very civilly treated to 
 a shght examination. 
 
 This town is so very diflerent from the Italian cities. 
 It has a solid business like air, aud a harbor crowded 
 with ships from all parts of the world. The people 
 appear more energetic and not so lazy and listless. 
 
 The shuttlecock steamboats on the Ehone and SaoHO 
 cannot navigate these rivers on account of the low 
 water now prevailing; so that I must travel night and 
 day by diligence and railway to get to Paris.* I intend 
 to make two bites of a cherry, and stop a day at Lyons, 
 I have taken a place in the diligence to leave in the 
 afternoon of the 23d inst. 
 
 February •2od. — Three days in Marseilles and not a 
 single beggar. Prosperous Marseilles ! 
 
 The Paris diligence is a large vehicle and carries 
 eighteen persons. The vehicle is divided into three 
 rooms in the interior and has seats on the top. The bag- 
 gage is also placed on the roof, and w^ould render the 
 carriage liable to upset, unless the roads were very level 
 and hard. Two Germans were in the front apartment, 
 or coupe, with -me. One of them spoke several lan- 
 guages. The Germans and Russians are famous 
 throughout Europe for the ease with which they ac- 
 quire other languages ; the reason for which is said to 
 be that after they have mastered their own slabbering, 
 jaw-cracking languages, the}^ are competent to master 
 
 * Duo of the rivers wat navigabi* at this time. 
 
AVIGNON. LYONS. 157 
 
 any other language on the face of the earth. The dili- 
 gence drove up to the railway and drew up under a ma- 
 chine very like a gallows. Here our vehicle was hoisted 
 off its wheels, placed on railway wheels and attached to 
 the train. At four P. M., we started, passing through a 
 tunnel, which we estimated to be four miles in length, 
 it requiring seven minutes at the usual rate of speed to 
 get through. As we w^ent on we caught glimpses of 
 the Mediterranean, upon the banks of which were 
 growing numerous orchards of olive trees. The wind 
 was still fierce, and rattled the windows of the cars 
 furiously. 
 
 " Blow winds and crack your cheeks, 
 I'm in a railroad car." 
 
 We reached Avignon at half past eight o'clock. 
 Here we were again lifted off our wheels and placed on 
 those lit for the road. "We had five horses ; three 
 leaders abreast, and two wheel horses. The road was 
 broad, smooth and McAdamized; and the horses large, 
 strong and steady, and frequently changed. Morning 
 came at last, cold and windy. We passed two mount- 
 ed gendarmes escorting a prisoner in a close carriage. 
 They looked like general officers, with their cocked 
 hats and long military cloaks. We saw many loaded 
 cars, some drawn by seven horses in aline. 
 
 At half-past ten A. M. we reached Valencd. Here 
 we took our breakfast and dinner togethei'. We were 
 now near the Rhone. The hills beyond it were covered 
 with snow. We rode past many orchards of mulberry 
 trees, which are here cultivated for the silk worms. 
 Chateaux in groves and gardens surrounded by high 
 walls, were scattered along the road. At half past nine 
 P. M., reached Lyons, or Leeon, as the French call it. 
 The street lights along the Rhone and Saone, made a 
 pretty panorama in the water. 
 
 25i/i — From the vast quantities of silk and other 
 fancy goods manufactured at Lyons, I had supposed 
 that there were some huge establishments there : but 
 the silks, velvets, &c., are made in little outof-the- 
 
 14 
 
158 LYONS, 
 
 way rooms scattered through the city, each of them 
 occupied by some half dozen workmen. I went up to 
 the top of a high building where they were embroider- 
 ing gold on silk. A school of boys met me on the stair- 
 way, making a great clattering with their wooden shoes 
 as they ran down. The process of embroidering I 
 could not understand, but I could admire the elegant 
 pieces of work that were finished. 
 
 Afterwards I visited the glass works, and saw them 
 cutting off the ends of tumblers, wine glasses, &c., with 
 scissors as if they had been cloth. 
 
 It was too hazy to go up into the observatory of the 
 city, from which, in a fair day, Mont Blanc, one hun- 
 dred miles distant, can be seen, 
 
 I also took a view of the Hotel de Ville, or City Hall. 
 It is a fine building. There is also an old cathedral in 
 the town which is worth a visit. 
 
 26^A. — My English hotel keeper said he would send 
 me to the boat in a homnibus, but he did'nt; he sent 
 me in a aclc. The boat was one of those small open 
 ones which ply on these rivers ; and, by my measure- 
 ment, was just twelve feet across in its widest part. I 
 had some difficulty in finding the stern, but at last I 
 observed a man with his head pushing the handle of the 
 rudder. In this way he steered the boat. A recruit 
 with several of his companions was on board and were 
 singing some patriotic songs. A friend or brother 
 rushed from the shore to the boat and seemed deter- 
 mined to go with him. The recruit seized him and en- 
 deavored to push him back, and with the help of others 
 succeeded in putting him on shore. It, was merely a 
 piece of French theatricals; the man who seemed bent 
 on accompanying his friend, knew precisely how the 
 matter would end. There Avere several French cavalry 
 ofiicers on board, wearing those enormous red panta- 
 loons. If I had been mathematical, I should have "taken 
 the sun" and tried to find the latitude and longitude of 
 their legs. In the cabin w^as a Frenchman giving 
 imitations of many birds, &c. ; they were truly won- 
 derful. 
 
CHALONS. PARIS. 159 
 
 "We arrived at Chalons at half-past five in the after- 
 noon. The cathedral bells were ringing, deep and mel- 
 low, sounding like the vesper hymn : 
 
 " Over the waters soft and clear." 
 
 27^A — Off by railway at six in the morning. Patches 
 of snow were seen along the road, indicating that the 
 French have had a hard winter. On approaching Paris 
 we crossed the crooked Seine several times. At four 
 o'clock I reached Paris. Here the examination of my 
 baggage was very slight. As I rode down to the city, I 
 tried -to find a reason for the strict examination I un- 
 derwent when I first landed in France. And I came 
 to the conclusion that I was then suspected of being 
 an Englishman. 
 
 I stopped at the Hotel cV Lille Sf de Albion, Eue St. 
 Honore. The prices are reasonable for Paris ; and 
 for the first time on the Continent I found soap in my 
 room. The landlord and several of the waiters speak 
 English. The Commissioner, or guide attached to the 
 hotel, I think you will declare to be an Englishman on 
 bearing a few of his remarks. He was looking in a di- 
 rectory for a certain name ; first he said it began with 
 a hoe ; then he said after reflecting a moment, that it 
 began with a hess. He told me that English will soon 
 be the "domineering" language on the face of the earth. 
 He said that a rotten liapple was good for the hye. He 
 declared that the Turks were not like us, but were a 
 difi'erent horder of hanimah. He said that many of 
 the Hirish told him that their friends in America 
 could have defeated the election oiSir Larrence Polk, if 
 they had chosen to do so. And he declared in the 
 most positive manner that GTruyere cheese is good for 
 the disgestion ; it will disgest everything else, but won't 
 disgest itself 
 
 Paris, March 1st. — Even the prejudiced, conceited, 
 and supercilious English confess that Paris is one of 
 the handsomest cities in the world. Yet they do not 
 like to hear you rate it above London. The trees in 
 the public grounds are no t yet in leaf, yet many people 
 
iDU PARIS. 
 
 are rambling under them. Children are rolling their 
 hoops about, and many women are seen "with caps on 
 their heads, sewing or knitting. They have just been 
 driving a bull through the streets decorated with rib- 
 bons ; and some free-and-easy women dressed as god- 
 desses have been riding in the procession of the bull. 
 This forms part of one of the childish celebrations for 
 which the Parisians are famous — " pleased with a rattle, 
 tickled with a straw." 
 
 The air is mild and pleasant, and the sky clear. The 
 fountains sparkle in the sun. How long before their 
 crystal waters will be dashed with blood ? 
 
 March 2d. — I went in to see a panorama of the over- 
 land journey to California, now exhibiting in the Palais 
 Hoyal. The steamboat " Senator" was shown on the 
 Sacramento river, and was described as the handsomest 
 boat ever built by the Americans. And the steamer 
 " Panama" was declared to be the largest and strong- 
 est vessel ever built by the same people, and carries six 
 hundred people. Cape Horn was shown with vessels 
 doubling it in a storm. Here was given the best imi- 
 tation of thunder that I ever heard; made by roiling 
 heavy balls in the room over our heads. Views on the 
 Atlantic were pictured ; Yankee Doodle was tried to- 
 be played on the piano ; and when the city of New- 
 York came in sight, " Hail Columbia" was played. 
 
 March dd, Notre Dame. — There was service here on 
 this day, nearly all the audience being composed of wo- 
 men. Chairs are placed about the church which those 
 who use must pay for. The church is a great cage for 
 some little birds who reside within it;, and who from 
 long connection with it, may well be considered mem- 
 bers. Though some of them were hopping about and 
 examining the floor as if they wished to see seed. 
 
 After leaving the church I went to the dead house 
 which is near at hand, and saw three bodies lying on 
 cots until they should be recognized by their friends. 
 They were naked except a cloth wound about the mid- 
 dle. Their clothes were hung upon the "vjrall.. One, 
 
PARIS. 161 
 
 was a man with beard and moustache, whose thin arms 
 shewed that he had wasted away either by starvation 
 or sickness. Near him lay a large man, whose face 
 was distorted as if he had died by violence. The re- 
 maining body was that of a young woman, with long 
 hair, who had most likely, to end a hfe of shame, 
 drowned herself in the Seine. Hardly a day passes in 
 which several bodies are not fished out of the river ; 
 and yet the river water after being filtered is all the 
 water you can get to drink in Paris. 
 
 At'night I went to see -Robert Houdin, the celebrated 
 magician and necromancer. On mj way through the 
 Boulevard Italien, I saw a woman sitting flat on the 
 sidewalk with her back against a house, reading an old 
 torn book by the light of a tin lamp, with both her legs 
 exposed to the passers by. N. B. — Her legs were of 
 wood. 
 
 Houdin was no great trickster. The audience was 
 similar to those we are accustomed to see at Niblo's in 
 New- York. But in one of the best seats in front, sat 
 a very black negro woman, who was treated with great 
 politeness by the Magician and by those present. 
 
 March ith. — Walked for several hours in those wide 
 streets known as the Boulevards, where the pavements 
 are as spacious as many of the streets of continental 
 towns. The display in the shop windows of all sorts 
 of fancy goods, jewelry, &c,, was truly wonderful. The 
 exquisite taste of the French in these matters has never 
 been equalled and cannot be disputed. And yet, do 
 their articles wear as well as those manufactured in 
 England or America ? 
 
 March 5th, Sunday — This is the day when the " peo- 
 ple" are admitted into the Louvre gallery. I found 
 very few of the people there ; a review of troops in the 
 courtyard of the Tuillenes palace presenting more at- 
 traction for them. It was said that the Emperor was 
 to be present at the review ; but I did not choose to 
 Btand in the crowd and wait, because I can see a rattle- 
 
 14* 
 
162 PARIS. 
 
 snake or boa constrictor on almost any day for six and 
 a quarter cents. 
 
 I went to-day to see Napoleon's tomb in the Hospital of 
 the Invalides. It is situated in a circular, vaulted fo'om 
 with a marble floor, in the centre of which is a hole 
 fifteen feet across, surrounded by a marble railing. Irt 
 this hole, or cavity, is a stone sarcophagus, massive yet 
 short, but quite long enough for the body of the " Little 
 Corporal." The tomb is not yet completed, the- body 
 now lying in a stone coflSn in an adjoining room ; the 
 cocked hat and sword of the warrior being placed in 
 full view at his feet. Near the ton:ib is ail altar cover •■ 
 ed by a gilded canopy supported by four twisted 
 columns of variegated marble, with gilt capitals ; the 
 whole being of the richest and most elaborate architec- 
 ture. Underneath the canopy is a representation of 
 Christ upon the cross. Near the altar are placed the 
 tombs of some of Napoleon's favorite generals. 
 
 I went out to the village of St. Cloud to see the- 
 palace. There is a short railway about two- miles long, 
 leading in that direction, upon which is a car drawn by 
 horses and called the "American omnibus." Crowds^ 
 of people gather around it to see it start. My way lay 
 through the AYood of Boulogne, in which is a small 
 town of the same name, though very much smaller than- 
 the Boulogne of the English Channel. Crossing the 
 Seine I reached the village and Palace of St. Cloud. 
 The palace is small,, and is built upon three sides of a 
 square. From its front a fine view is obtained of the 
 wmding river, with Boulogne on the opposite shore, 
 and Paris in the distance. The inside ' of the palace 
 was similar to otl>er royal residences that I have seen.. 
 There were marble floors and floors inlaid with wood of 
 difierent colors. The ceilings of some of the rooms were 
 vaulted and painted. Many of the doors and window 
 shutters were handsomely carved and gilded. There 
 were some choice paintings and some handsome-statuary ; 
 also some large pictures in tapestry. 
 
 In some of tlie rooms wood was laid in the fire'^lacesk 
 
PARIS. 163 
 
 feady to be lighted. There is a chapel in the palace 
 which I suppose the Little Butcher sometimes attends. 
 I went into his library which was not very large but 
 very compact and neatly arranged. The room was 
 composed of three small stories^ each with a gallery 
 running around it, accessible by a narrow stairway. 
 Upon looking into one of the book-cases I saw a large 
 volume, on the back of which was printed these words: 
 " Bible de famille^'' — which appeared a^ if it had been 
 very little used. The private apartments of the Em- 
 peror could not be seen, as he was expected to arrive 
 to-day. No person is allowed to enter the grounds in 
 which he walks, for he has some little reason to fear 
 concealed assassins, tarpedoes, man-traps, spring-guns^ 
 &c. 
 
 On leaving the palace, which is the most snug and 
 comfortable royal residence I have yet seen, I went into 
 the park on the bank ©f the river where are fountains, 
 grass plats, and pleasant views. The trees are not left 
 to grow according to nature, but are trimmed so as to 
 be exactly even and flat at the top, which gives them 
 rather an artificial look. 
 
 On my return, I saw in the streets of Paris, some of 
 the exhibitions which take place there on Sundays. 
 There were contortionists with their legs over their 
 shoulders ; men with learned rabbits and other educa- 
 ted animals, with crowds of people as spectators. 
 
 March 1th — The Old Palace of Foatainebleau. — 
 This is forty miles from Paris on the railway towards 
 Lyons. It is situated in the town of Fontainebleau,. 
 which lies concealed in the forest of that name, where 
 the Kings and Emperors can hunt the deer and wild- 
 boar, kept here for royal sporting. The ancient palace 
 is of brick and stone, and of irregular shape. The 
 gardens and grounds in its immediate vicinity are ex- 
 tensive and handsome. Near it is a pond of water, in 
 the centre of which is a circular summer-house, to which 
 Napoleon the First, or the Big Butcher, used to row 
 himself and his ministers when any very important ra.a.t- 
 
164 PARIS. 
 
 ter was to be discussed, and which it was necessary to 
 keep secret. Here he would be out of ear-shot of the 
 women. 
 
 In the interior of the paUice, the walls are hung with 
 gobelin tapestry, large oil paintings, &c. The sides and 
 ceilings of some of the rooms were most splendidly 
 carved and gilded. There were some handsome draw- 
 ing rooms, halls of Francis the First, and some of the 
 Louises. I passed through rooms formerly occupied by 
 the Pope ; Marie Antoinette's bed chamber, with its 
 rich silk embroidered curtains; Napoleon's bed chamber, 
 private cabinet, and bath-room, in which was a little short 
 bathing tub ; Madame de Maintenon's apartments, 
 whose bed chamber, though it did not look so royal, 
 seemed much more comfortable. The bed quilt was 
 handsome enough, being of embroidered white satin. 
 
 March 8th. — Passino^ alonff one of the streets run- 
 ning from the rear of the Palais Eoyal, I saw a door 
 or gateway hung with black, within which was a coffin, 
 covered with a velvet pall, lying all alone with no per- 
 son near it. The people in the street as they passed, 
 took off their hats ; and some of them sprinkled water 
 upon the pall, water being placed in a jar near by for 
 that purpose. This custom seemed to me very cu- 
 rious, but I was told that it was entirely catholic. 
 
 March9th — There is a celebrated piece of ancient 
 marble sculpture at Florence, called "the slave whet- 
 ting a knife." On the corner of the main entrance from 
 the Tuilleries gardens to the Little Butcher's palace, 
 is a copy of this statue in bronze. How beautifully 
 appropriate ! Turning your back on the palace, you 
 look through the main avenue of the gardens and see 
 the Obelisk of Luxor, raised thousands of years ago in 
 Egypt by slaves writhing under the whips of task- 
 masters, and now standing on the spot where once rose 
 and fell the crimson guillotine. In the distance up the 
 Champs Elysees, stands the Arch of Triumph, erected 
 to commemorate the bloody victories of the elder Na-^ 
 poleon. The air smells of human gore, here in the 
 heart of brilliant, polite, cut-throat France. 
 
PARIS. 165 
 
 March lO^A— The general Post Office {La Grande 
 Poste^) is entered through an arched gateway and sur- 
 rounds a courtyard. The gateway is guarded by a 
 sentinel with a musket and bayonet. It is a dingy 
 building containing a number of rooms, not very large, 
 and with no such display of clerks as you will see in 
 the New York Post Office. The letter boxes for the 
 reception of letters deposited for the mails are labelled 
 '■'■Bottc aux Lettres.'''' There is nothing peculiar about 
 the Pra-is Post Office to an outsider. 
 
 Bank of Pkance. A sentinel is also placed before 
 the gateway of this building, the different rooms of 
 which are entered from a courtyard. A few clerks, 
 standing behind high glass screens ^Dlaced upon the 
 counters, did not seem very busily engaged. There is 
 no clink of coin as in the Bank of England. But two 
 or three customers were visible, and they did not seem 
 in much of a hurry ; and yet this very Bank prevented 
 the Bank of England some years ago from collapsing 
 a flue. 
 
 The Grand French Opera. This is a handsome 
 house, yet no handsomer than the old New York Opera 
 House. To get to the pit you have to go up two pair 
 of stairs. The seats are entirely too close together, 
 cramping even the legs of a short man. People, when 
 they wish to leave the house for a short time, tie their 
 handkerchiefs to the back of their seats, which secures 
 them. In England or in the United States they would 
 probably miss both handkerchiefs and seats on their 
 return. The Emperor's box is a small one over the 
 side of the stage; and from it hangs a crimson velvet 
 embroidered cloth to distinguish it from those of the 
 corammon herd, I heard one act of the Opera of 
 "Moses in Egypt," which, as far as I could judge, ap- 
 peared to be pretty well sung. From the appearance 
 of Moses hiinself, I inferred that he had been out of 
 the bulrushes about thirty -five years. 
 
 March Wth. — The Fi'ench women are certainly very 
 pretty. They have a genius, for dress, just as their 
 
166 PARIS. 
 
 countrymen have a genius for cooking. A French- 
 woman is born a milliner. She chooses her colors to 
 suit her complexion and her style of face. She does 
 not dress as gaudily as our New York city ladies, 
 many of whom flatter themselves that they dress after 
 the Paris fashion ; and her fits seem to be perfect. The 
 Frenchwomen have handsome feet and ancles, cased in 
 neat French boots; and they walk gracefully. The 
 great majority of all the shops are tended by women. 
 Look in upon them through the windows, and v/hen 
 not engaged in waiting on a customer, you will always 
 see them sewing; making something pretty to wear or 
 to sell ; or writing in cash books and ledgers, with neat 
 cuffs or rufSes round their wrists, and wearing jaunty 
 little caps upon their heads ; or with their hair exposed 
 and glossily done up. Even your chambermaid, or 
 washerwoman, appears neat, round and tidy. 
 
 I noticed some odd shops scattered through the 
 streets of Paris, In one you will see lumps of coal, 
 sticks of wood and kindlings ranged in order and ex- 
 posed for sale. Another, has mutton chops, steaks, 
 game, &c., all ready for cooking. Another, roast fowls, 
 &c., done brown and crisp, waiting for purchasers. 
 Here, is a silver counter over which well dressed girls 
 sell drinkables. There, a man who has a mysterious 
 bottle, out of the mouth of w^hich comes whatever drink 
 you may ask for, without his touching the bottle. I 
 guessed that he touched certain springs with his feet, 
 which were under the counter. He keeps the secret 
 from his own wife, as I was told, well knowing that if 
 it was imparted to her she would either have to tell it 
 to some one else^ or burst. But the shops or stores, 
 and saloons or ca/es, of Paris, are more easily imagined 
 than described. They seem countless, are well got up, 
 sell eveiy thing to every body, at all prices, and will 
 cheat you if they can. And they can. 
 
 I observe some common looking young men with 
 blue blouses or frocks, walking about the streets with 
 bunches of colored ribbons hanging from their caps. 
 
PARIS. 167 
 
 These fellows have been drawn for soldiers ; going 
 perhaps to fight the " Great Bear," They may be both 
 drawn and quartered before the year rolls round. 
 
 A year or two ago, the Government pulled down 
 many houses near the Tuilleries Palace for the purpose 
 of extending the Rue Rivoli. The owners of these 
 buildings were paid a very low price; but from want 
 of money, or lack of confidence in the existing state of 
 things, no one comes forward to purchase lots and erect 
 new buildings, although this is the very heart of the 
 city. .But it is said that in a conspicuous place near 
 the palace, a reckless American has purchased a lot of 
 ground on which he intends to erect a Hotel on a large 
 scale and to be kept in the American style,where you 
 pay so much per day whether you are absent from 
 your meals or not. Some of the Parisians predict that 
 the hotel will be a failure ; but I predict that if kept by 
 a " ]ive Yankee " it will succeed, for his sagacity will 
 point out to him the necessity of keeping his hotel in 
 both the French and American fashions. 
 
 I went to-day to see the Gobelins, where the beau- 
 tiful tapestry, carpets, &c., are made, small specimens 
 of which were in the New York Crystal Palace. The 
 work seems done mostly with fingers. The pictures 
 from which the workmen were copying were placed 
 behind them, and the imitations were so perfect that at 
 a little distance you would be puzzled to decide between 
 the skill of the "old master" and the new. The man- 
 ufactory belongs to Government, and the tapestry and 
 carpets are made for the French palaces, or for presents 
 to foreign potentates. The work is very expensive and 
 keeps competition at a distance. 
 
 I also went to a Horse Fair. A number of large 
 working horses were exposed for sale. They tried the 
 strength of these horses in a novel manner. They 
 would hitch them to carts whose wheels would not turn; 
 several men would then mount the carts, and the horses 
 would be made to go up a paved hill. To-morrow 
 (Sunday) there is to be a Dog Fair in this spot, and a 
 Pigeon Fair in another part of the city. 
 
168 PARIS. 
 
 Leaving these great horses I went to the tomb of a 
 great man — La Fayette. A better man than all the 
 Bonapartes combined, though less dazzling to the eyes 
 of the world, not having cut so many throats. La 
 Fayette is buried in a small grave-yard in which are 
 interred only twenty or thirty persons. A plain, dark 
 slab, raised a foot from the ground, covers his remains. 
 A similar slab is placed over the body of his wife who 
 lies by his side. The grave stones ai'e joined together 
 by a cross. Other members of La Fayette's family are 
 buried near him. Polignac, Montmorency, &c., are 
 also buried in the same yard. 
 
 Near the tomb of La Fayette is a gate in the wall 
 leading into a smaller enclosure, covered with fresh 
 green grass ?^d containing but a single tombstone. Yet 
 here lie one thousand three hundred and sis persons 
 who were guillotined in the Eeign of Terror by one of 
 the infernal machines which was stationed in this neigh- 
 borhood, in the course of one of those periodical frenzies 
 which sometimes agitate the "half monkey, half tiger" 
 nation. The single tombstone stands over the body of 
 a G-erman who was recognized by his friends. 
 
 The grave-yard where La Fayette is buried is at- 
 tached to a church which belongs to the Convent of the 
 Sacred Heart, standing in the vicinity. In this church 
 are always seen two nuns dressed in white and engaged 
 in prayer day and night without cessation. They are 
 relieved every hour. I saw them kneeling before the 
 altar like motionless ghosts, stirring neither head or 
 hand while I remained in the church. 
 
 I went to the Bourse, or Paris Stock Exchange. 
 From a gallery IJooked down upon the crowd of brokers 
 below. There were about two thousand "bulls" and 
 "bears," nearly all Frenchmen, nearly all gesticulating, 
 and nearly all of them talking at the same time. Fe- 
 male speculators were once admitted here, but they 
 made such a noise that the men were obliged to turn 
 them out; and now the women stand outside and dabble 
 in stocks through some male broker. Several of these 
 
PARIS. 169 
 
 petticoat operators were pointed out to me. They 
 looked like rusty old maids, with sharp tongues ; and it 
 is most likely that while they were present within, the 
 brokers could not tell whether stocks were up or down. 
 
 At night went in to see the Italian Opera House. 
 Here I was obliged to go up stairs again to get to the 
 pit. The house is not remarkably large nor remarka- 
 bly handsome. The opera was "Don G-iovanni," which 
 I have seen much better done in New York. This Ope- 
 ra House like similar ones in America, fails to support 
 itself; but the French Government contributes a certain 
 Bum fowards its existence. 
 
 March I2th. — Went again to the Louvre gallery. It 
 being Sunday "the people" were there, and seemed to 
 enjoy the fine paintings and statuary. I notice now 
 that the statues in the French galleries are more naked 
 than in the Italian galleries, where efforts are made to 
 conceal a portion of nature. The paintings in this gal- 
 lery comprise many very beautiful ones. Those done 
 by Claude Lorraine I liked as well as any. 
 
 From the gallery I walked down to the Garden of 
 Plants. Many men, women and children, were here to 
 enjoy the walks and to see the animals, shrubs and 
 flowers. The French people certainly look happy; but 
 they also look miserable at what we should consider 
 trifles. 
 
 I was with my friend from Islip, lately returned from 
 Palestine, who wished to go to La Morgue, or the Dead 
 House. Four bodies were lying there for recognition, 
 either drowned, murdered or died unknown. One was 
 the body of a young girl. We soon turned away from 
 the j)ainful sight. 
 
 March \5th. — The glories of my eternal passport are 
 about to fade. The American representative has given 
 me permission to go to England, via Boulogne. Where- 
 upon the French Police have kindly consented that the 
 fearful individual '' T. Q." may leave Paris. And no 
 charge is made by either! After which the F'rench 
 authorities at Boulogne will allow me to embark on any 
 
 15 
 
170 BOULOGNE. 
 
 vessel leaving the shores of Prance. I do not shew my 
 passport to the English Minister in Paris, because he 
 would not look at it if I did. I may go to England and 
 
 be hanged, or stay away and be hanged, just 
 
 as I please. Great Britain is not afraid of me. "The 
 lion don't eare a farden for Daniel, and Daniel don't 
 care a fiirden for the lion." 
 
 There was one "sight" that I designed to see before 
 leaving Paris, being tempted thereto by posters on the 
 walls, shewing an elephant dancing a polka or some- 
 thing like it, at a circus ; and afterward standing on his 
 head. Fortunately I heard the account of one who had 
 been present at this exhibition; and he asserted that 
 the pictures flattered the elephant. "There be land 
 rats and water rats." Yankee Barnums and French 
 Barnums. G-reenly simjDle I must have been not to 
 have thought of this without a hint. So I leave Paris 
 without "seeing the elephant." 
 
 March \.Uh. — The last prominent object that met my 
 view as I rode towards the railway that was to take 
 me from Paris, were the Tuilleries Palace seen in a 
 morning haze, and the dark cannon column of the elder 
 Napoleon. At the railway station I saw an ofiice, over 
 the door of which were these words, — "Information 
 given to English travelers." But I did not go in, as I 
 could now command the few words necessary to a start. 
 The country through which we soon began to pass, 
 was neatly cultivated, but fenceless. The speed of the 
 train was commendable, but the road seemed the rough- 
 est I had yet rode on in Europe. In fact, I do not 
 believe that their short cars are ever so easy as the long 
 ones used on our roads. At Amiens we stopped for 
 breakfast, where I was done out of seventy-five cents 
 |br a bowl of soup and a piece of chicken, Eeached 
 Bolougne at half past two in the afteinoon. This city 
 is full of English rogues, fugitives from justice. 
 
 "True patriots they, fur be it imderstnr.cl, 
 
 They left their country, for their country's good." 
 
 There being no boat till a quarter to eleven o'clock 
 
FOLKESTONE. LONDON. 171 
 
 to-morrow morning, I am obliged to remain here all 
 night.- 
 
 Walked out to a level space near the walls, where 
 some soldiers were drilling. There were also some 
 countrymen in blue frocks, who were drawn for soldiers, 
 and who were now being put through their steps. The. 
 boys were laughing at their awkwardness ; and some of" 
 the countrymen laughed in self defence; while others 
 looked sad, as well they might, on being dragged away 
 from their quiet homes to be made butchers of. 
 
 March I5th. — Crossed the channel in about two 
 hours, the day being fine and quiet until we reached 
 the English side, when the clouds began to congregate. 
 I passed the Folkestone custom-house without any 
 trouble. At six o'clock I reached London and found 
 its atmosphere hazy and foggy. The city looked vast, 
 stupid and heavy after Paris. The windows seemed 
 as if they had been washed with brotv?i stout. The man 
 at the toll bridge which I had to pass, was quite surly, 
 so I paid him his toll with a flourish, and thanked him 
 kindly for his extraordinary politeness. There could 
 be no doubt but all his days had been passed in Eng- 
 land. 
 
 I stopped at the Tavistock Hotel, Convent Garden, 
 near the theatre of that name, and also near Drury 
 Lane. In these two theatres the great actors of Eng- 
 land have performed, and many of the great authors 
 have witnessed their efforts. 
 
 Drury Lane theatre was literally covered with large 
 play-bills and posters, filled with the most extravagant 
 puffs of the plays and actors to be seen within ; beat- 
 ing our Bowery theatre in gas all to pieces. • I went in 
 to see Gr. Y. Brooke, the tragedian, who has performed 
 in America. Those who have seen him are aware that 
 he has two voices ; one like that of the late actor Ham- 
 blin, stopped by snuff; the other like that of a bullfrog 
 made hoarse by a London fog while sitting on the 
 banks of the Thames watching the working of the 
 world. Drury Lane theatre is perhaps larger than the 
 
172 LONDON, 
 
 Broadway theatre in New York ; the tiers not being 
 so deep, but more of them. The house is neat but not 
 gaudy ; tolerably comfortable, though not so much so 
 as our New York theatres. Brooke did only one good 
 thing throughout the entire play of Richard the Third. 
 He managed to fall upon the stage from an elevation 
 behind the scenes, as if thrown from his horse, previous 
 to giving the words, — 
 
 "A horse ! a horse ! my k'ngJom for a horse," &.e. 
 
 The exterior of Drury Lane and Convent Garden 
 theatres are solid and substantial without being hand- 
 some, after the English style of architecture. 
 
 March I6th. — Foggy and damp, dark, dull and 
 heavy. I was told to avoid England in March, but I 
 did not think to find it quite so misty. The atmosphere 
 should be wholesome, for the people generally look 
 healthy; many of them with faces as if cut out of 
 rounds of beef; pumpkin-heads and mutton fists. 
 
 This spring climate of England weighs upon my 
 heart hke a tub of beer. 
 
 At night, for the purpose of driving away melancholy, 
 I went to Madame Vestris' theatre. Her husband, as 
 he is called, Charles Matthews, is a good actor, as is 
 also another performer by the name of Frank Matthews. 
 Madame herself is getting old and fat, a V A7iglaise. 
 Porter, brown stout and 3^ears are grossifying the 
 modern Cleopatra. It was a fairy piece that was per- 
 formed, fall of showy scenery, clap trap and gilt leather, 
 but quite destitute of sense. I find no such entertain- 
 ment at these theatres as I have enjoyed at Burton's 
 and Wallack's in New York. 
 
 In these public places, as well as in the street, I take 
 a traveler's privilege of looking at the ladies. Many 
 ot the English women are tall and masculine, putting 
 tl eir large feet firmly on the ground as they walk. 
 Others are moderately tall and immoderately gross and 
 fat. There are some of a good handy size, yet not near 
 so well looking or well dossed as the French women, 
 tb( ugh in France there are a good many fattish fe- 
 males. 
 
il'l U3 
 
LONDON. 173 
 
 The men here are better looking than the French ; 
 with more manly figures and less hair upon their faces. 
 Nat, Willis says they are the best looking race of men 
 in the world. It may be. Stout fathers and mothers 
 are partly the cause ; air and exercise in youth, and 
 the climate not so wasting as ours, are also favorable. 
 I see many more hale, grey-haired old men here than 
 in any other country I have been in. They usually 
 spend about two hours at their dinner, and do not jump 
 up as soon as they have swallowed their victuals, and 
 60 get the dyspepsia. 
 
 March I7th. — -I have been amused when getting one 
 of the people at the hotel to find names and places for me 
 in the huge London directory. The letter H suffers a 
 good deal. The man turns over the leaves of the book, 
 and thus ejaculates, — "Haitch, Hi, J, K, Hell, Hem, 
 Hen, Hoe," &c. But it is usually the uneducated Eng- 
 lish for whom the letter H is too much. Although 
 the English generally do not speak their own language 
 as correctly as the Americans. 
 
 March I8th. — I went to-day to get a note cashed at 
 the Bank of England. I was sent to the " Cashier," 
 whom we in America would call the Paying Teller, 
 who requested me to write my name and address on 
 the back of the note ; he then handed it to a man on 
 his left, who wrote something upon its face ; it was 
 then passed over to another person who called out my 
 name when my turn came, and paid me the coin as re- 
 quested. I would like to see a New-York Teller going 
 through this process with a thousand one dollar bills. 
 The notes of the Bank of England are cancelled when 
 paid, and never re-issued. 
 
 March 20^7^.-— Yesterday was a dull, nasty, rainy, 
 foggy, hazy, greasy, sticky, slippery, disagreeable Lon- 
 don day. To-day is cold, foggy and John Bullish. I 
 went to see Westminster Abbey. It was originally 
 built of a whitish stone, now browned nearly all over 
 by time. Its front of two towei's is narrow and not 
 imposing. The side view is the best, although the rear 
 
 15* 
 
174 LONDON. 
 
 is well worth looking at. After service, which is per- 
 formed here daily, I went inside, which in its architec- 
 ture presents nothing very remarkable. In one corner, 
 Bome of the Poets of England are buried ; and tablets 
 are placed upon the wall in honor of some others who 
 do not lie there. There are also a number of modern 
 tombs with marble figures grouped about them, not in 
 very good tuste. The English cannot compare with 
 the French in these matters. In one of the chapels are 
 buried some of the monarehs of England. Queen Anne, 
 and some other notables lie under a pavement upon 
 which there is no inscription. Mary Queen of Scots, 
 and Queen Elizabeth, have square raised tombs, upon 
 which lie their effigies in stone or bronze, representing 
 the apparel which they wore while living. These effi- 
 gies lie upon their backs, with clasped hands, as if im- 
 ploring forgiveness of heaven. Some of the dissolute, 
 rascall}^ kings of England have monuments which in 
 their day were doubtjess considered very fine; but 
 "which are now far eclips(xl by private monuments of 
 the present day. The Abbey is old and venerable, being 
 quite ancient for England. 
 
 Directly across the street from the Abbey, on the 
 banks of the Thames, stand the new Parliament Houses, 
 They are handsome buildings. One or t wo large towers 
 are not yet completed. Tliey are to be several hun- 
 dred feet high. The Lords and Commons commence 
 their sittings at four o'clock in the afternoon, frequently 
 not rising till morning. To get admission to their halls, 
 a member's order is necessary. I shall take the proper 
 steps to look in on the English law makers. 
 
 March 21 st^ — Hyde Park. — This Park contains 
 groves, open spaces covered with green sward, and 
 many large tr(3es. A t^ruall stream called the Serpen- 
 tine Eiver, runs through it. There is also a pond in it 
 which is sometimes frozen over in winter. Kensington 
 gardens occupy one end of the Park, near which is 
 Kensington Palace, a small aud plain building wheik 
 considered as a royal residence. Apsley House, the 
 
LONDON. 175 
 
 residence of -the late Duke of Wellington, fronts on the 
 Park. Many blocks of handsome dwellings are also 
 near Hyde Park. There are roads for carriages in the 
 Park ; and no boards are put on the trees to warn pedes- 
 trians to "Keep off the Grass." This Park measures 
 by miles and not by rods, although Regent's Park con- 
 tains one hundred acres more land. These two Parks 
 have been aptly called the " Lungs of London." This 
 mighty city needs such breathing places. 
 
 At night I went to the Princess' Theatre. Her 
 "Most Gracious Majesty" Victoria I, patronizes this 
 theatre. Its manager Mr. Charles Kean, is well knowB 
 in America, as more of a gentleman and a scholar than 
 an actor. The theatre is small and not very comfort- 
 able. Some of the seats in the pit are without cushions 
 or backs. "Women circulate among the audience and 
 sell play bills. In no theatre in Europe do you obtain 
 play bills gratis as you do in our country. 
 
 March 22d — Uegent's Park. — This enclosure is so 
 large that it looks quite like the countiy. The Zoolo- 
 gical Gardens are in this Park, and. all the animals and 
 birds that can exists in this climate you will be apt to 
 find here. The day being cold and chilly, but very few 
 of the animals were " at home" to visitors. 
 
 British Museum. — This rather beats Barnum's. It 
 will be impossible to mention but few of the curiosities 
 to be seen here, so I only select those which appeared 
 to me the most striking. The Elgin Marbles brought 
 from Greece, are here ; consisting of parts of columns, 
 capitals, &c. ; broken statues, friezes, entablatures and 
 other classic fragments. Some of the statues were ail 
 gone but the head ; others were destitute of heads, legs 
 and arms. Some people assert that Lord Elgin should 
 have left these relics in Greece ; while others say that 
 if left there they would have been destroyed long 
 since. 
 
 There are a number of large winged lions and bulla 
 brought from the city of Nineveh by Mr. Layard. They 
 are massive specimens of antique sculpture, and were to 
 me exceedingly interesting. 
 
176 LONDON. 
 
 As I intend to visit this museum again, ^ omit further 
 mention of it for the present. The exterior of the 
 building is quite handsome, with its two wings and rows 
 of columns. 
 
 In the evening, I stepped into one of the Saloons 
 known as Evans], to see how the youth of England 
 spend a portion of their nights. The company are 
 pretty generally assembled at about ten o'clock, and 
 are seated around long tables taking refreshments in 
 true English style ; not the light sweet cakes and 
 candies which the Erench love so much, but beef steaks, 
 chops, ham and eggs, &c., accompanied by spirits or 
 ale. Some eight or ten men and boys are employed to 
 sing glees, catches and songs, which they do with more 
 power than melody. How can an Englishman be ex- 
 pected to sing with six cubic inches of fog in his throat. 
 There is no charge for admission to these places in 
 London, but you are expected to call for some refresh- 
 ments. I asked for a sandwich, and the waiter brought 
 me eight ! Here I was again suspected of being an 
 Englishman. 
 
 March 2od. — One of the features of London is the 
 " chop house," restaurant, or eating house. On the 
 windows are painted these words : " Hot joints from 
 twelve to eight," " chops and steaks" — "Alsops pale 
 ale," — " XXX brown-stout," &c. When Nature cries 
 out that she "abhors a vacuum," you can step into one 
 of these houses and. order a "chop" or a " steak" — you 
 need not mention mutton chop, for the English know 
 no other, and the chances are that you will get 
 for about twenty-five cents a good and substantial din-, 
 ner, with a pot of ale into the bargain ; not forgetting 
 a mouthful or two of Stilton or Cheshire cheese. These 
 chop-houses are convenient to the stranger when en-- 
 gaged in sight seeing. They are all over town, but 
 chiefly in the " city," as the business part of London ia 
 called. And if you don't dine at your hotel, you do 
 not pay. 
 
 "Walking along the Strand to-day, I was struck by 
 
.*■•> jW ■«-'. iSasSS 
 
LONDON. 177 
 
 the largest panes of glass I had ever seen, which were 
 made to form the windows of a looking-glass shop. I 
 had the curiosity to step in and inquire the size of these 
 unbroken sheets of glass, and was informed that they 
 are sixteen feet high and ten feet wide, being the largest 
 panes of glass in the world. Were these windows in 
 New- York, they would be likely to be broken by some 
 New- York rowdy, incited by rum or the spirit of mis- 
 chief; but said rowdy would here get his deserts, as 
 he would have no rascal of a New- York Alderman to 
 protect- him. ' There is something good in John Bui! 
 after all. 
 
 Bellingsgate Market. — The fish- women here have 
 made by their free-and-easy talk, a word for the politi- 
 cal dictionary — billingsgate. Their conversation is cer- 
 tainly not of the most delicate nature whenever they 
 get offended. I took good care not to tread on any of 
 their toes, but walked about among their fish in the 
 most respectful manner I could assume. One of them, 
 who might have been a sister of Jack FalstaflT, judging 
 from her rotund figure and rubicund face, asked me if 
 I wanted to buy a sole ; I answered "no." She then 
 , enquired if I wanted to buy a crab ; I answered "no" 
 again and walked away. She immediately said some- 
 thing which I did not hear, but I am jDositive it was 
 not very polite. Simpson's chop-house is in this mar- 
 ket, whei e, at his ordinary, at one and four o'clock, he 
 suddenly appears at the end of the table, raps on it 
 with a hammer, and informs the company what fish is 
 set before them. Mr. Simpson entirely disregards 
 punctuation, and opens after this manner : " For what 
 we are now to receive the Lord make us thankful soles 
 turbot whiting herrings fall to gentlemen !" 
 
 Thames Tunnel. — This celebrated work is at Wap- 
 ping, where the sailors congregate. After paying a 
 penny sterling at the door, I descended some dist- 
 ance by a winding stairway until I arrived at the en- 
 trance of two arched ways, which comprise the Tunnsl. 
 I judge the arches to be about fifteen feet high and 
 
178 LONDON. 
 
 ten or twelve feet wide at the bottom. The bottom 
 was narrower than the sides, which bulged outward, 
 as I suppose they ought. The tunnel is painted white, 
 and brilliantly lit by gas, so that you can hardly be 
 made to believe that you are under ground with a 
 river and vessels over your head. Some wet spots 
 are seen here and there on the pavement under your 
 feet, but there are no other indications of water. 
 One division of the tunnel is occupied by shops, re- 
 fi'eshment rooms, shows, &c. Here they have many 
 trinkets to sell you, which people purchase as memen- 
 tos of the London Tunnel. I was interested in a 
 email organ, about the size of a hand organ, which 
 went by steam, and ground out very tolerable music. 
 The tunnel is only used for foot passengers, who thus 
 pass under the river for two cents. As far as dividends 
 are concerned the Tunnel is a complete failure; but it 
 is really one of the greatest curiosities to be seen in 
 London. 
 
 At night, I went to Astley's Amphitheatre. This is 
 a large and handsome house, with two or three rows of 
 boxes, and a regular theatrical stage. They were per- 
 forming what they call a "horse piece," in which the horses 
 proved themselves the best actors. There was a false 
 knight who carried off a lady. Her "lovyer" pursued the 
 villain and there were several rows and fights. The 
 acting of the men was in that " busting" style which 
 any one can enjoy at the Bowery Theatre at New 
 York. The piece concluded by a grand crash, after 
 which the curtain fell. Then the actors who had most 
 pleased the audience were called out before the cur- 
 tain ; and among them was a favorite horse, who got 
 down on his knees and bowed to the audience as if to 
 thank them for their applause. After the play, there 
 was riding in the ring, but it was of no account ; the 
 clown was not at all funny. 
 
 March 24:th. — A London " fine day" is when you can 
 see the chimney of the house across the street. Then 
 it is only a small fog for these parts. 
 
LONDON. 179 
 
 Another feature of London is the words printed on 
 the shop windows showing when the store or shop 
 was established. The Bnghsh hke antiquity, even in 
 cheese. ' 
 
 And still another feature is the many fellows in 
 livery, flunkies^ as they have been called. Thacke- 
 ray's "Ohawles Yellowplush" is seen on every corner. 
 Our new York snobs imitate this feature, and make 
 themselves truly ridiculous thereby. 
 
 Bolt Court. — This is a lane or alley running out of 
 Fleet street. The great moralist, Dr. Johnson, once 
 lived here, but his house is now torn down. " Dr. 
 Johnson's tavern" still stands, somewhat modernized 
 to be sure, but the very room where he and his friends 
 used to meet, is now in existence. I dined one day on 
 a "chop," in the coffee room directly under the apart- 
 ments once frequented by the celebrated lexicographer. 
 Of course my thoughts reverted back to " Old Sam," 
 and I imagined that I could hear some of his conver- 
 sation. 
 
 Johnson. — Sir, the man who could perform that act, 
 could have no inducement to withhold his hand from 
 your pocket. 
 
 Bosivell. — But, Doctor 
 
 Johnson. — But, what, sir. 
 
 BosioeU.—Yoxi. will excuse me, but I differ with you 
 in a slight degree. 
 
 Johnson. — Sir, you are a fool. 
 
 Boswell. — (Smiling faintly) Thank you, Doctor! thank 
 you! 
 
 March l^th. — I saw two fellows to-day standing in 
 front of a house, dressed up as hired mourners, with 
 long black weepers hanging from their hats, and each 
 with a staff in his hand trimmed with crape. They 
 could have very little feeling about the funeral in which 
 they were to play a part. They appeared to me 
 to be thinking of the money which they were to get, 
 and the place where they were to go after the funeral 
 and get a mug or two of ale. This English custom of 
 
180 RUGBY . S TEATFORD-ON-AVON. 
 
 hiring mourners, seems the very mockery^ of woe; a ri- 
 diculous dispki,y made for the sake of fashion, even at 
 the very portals of the grave. 
 
 I went to-night to hear Mr. Cummings, a celebrated 
 anti- Catholic Presbyterian, who preaches in a small 
 church, standing in a lane or court, near Drury Lane 
 Theatre. The crowd was so great I could not even get 
 near the door, so I must make another attempt to hear 
 this popular preacher. 
 
 Eleven days in London and one unbroken fog. This is 
 a matter of course here at this season of the year, so I 
 will vary the monotony of my present existence by an 
 excursion into the country. 
 
 March 27th. — I went down by "rail" to Eugby, (pro- 
 bably Jack Rugby's birth place,) but found that I 
 should have gone fifteen miles further to Leamington, 
 which was the nearest point on the road to Shak- 
 speare's native town. From Leamington I had ten 
 miles to perform, which I did by " fly" or cab, and 
 80 reached Stratford. I passed through the town of 
 Warwick without seeing the castle, a great attraction 
 to travellers. But I can do so hereafter, as I go 
 back that way. I had a good view of the country, 
 from my vehicle. The hedges and k"ees are not yet 
 in leaf, nor is there much green spread upon the fields; 
 yet it is perfectly plain that this Englandis a fine coun- 
 try, neatly tilled and trimmed. Clumps of trees were 
 left growing here and there in the fields ; the houses 
 were of solid stone or brick, with good outbuildings, 
 and the cattle looked sleek and respectable. 
 
 Stratford-Ox\-Avon. — I stopped at the Red Horse 
 Tavern, but there was no picture of a horse over the 
 door. It seemed a plain country inn. The room as- 
 signed to me was No. 15, made celebrated by having 
 formerly been occupied by Washington Irving. The 
 names of many Americans were written on the wall 
 paper, wherever the color of the figures would admit. 
 After getting settled in my temporary abode, I walked 
 •out through the town of Stratford into the country. Ma- 
 
c^ 
 
S f R A T I" R D - O N- A V O N . 181 
 
 ny strange birds were singing in the hedges and on the 
 trees. The country was level, smooth and well taken 
 care of. There were a number of gothic cottages which 
 looked neat and pretty. The gates set in the hedges 
 were painted white. After a pleasant hour or two, I 
 returned to Stratford, whose plain low stone, or brick 
 houses, some of them as old a« Shakspeare, are quite 
 unlike the gaily painted buildings of our villages. The 
 town contains about seven thousand inhabitants. 
 There is a bank there, but no newspaper. 
 
 I found a mutton chop with appropriate trimmings, 
 served up for ray dinner, in the httle parlor of the hotel. 
 A pensive young woman waited on me, who, by her de- 
 meanor I guessed to be suffering under the pangs of un- 
 requited affection- 
 
 / "--lie never told her love, 
 
 But let concealment, like a worm in the bud, 
 Prey on her damask cheek." 
 
 She told me that many Americans came here in sum- 
 mer, and that all of them were desirous of sleeping in 
 Washington Irving's room, I am now, I think, the only 
 giiest ia the house. 
 
 After dinner, I again walked out. I saw the outside 
 of the house where Shakspeare was born. A tall man 
 could touch the roof with his cane, and measure the 
 front in three or four paces. It is a miserable old 
 rookery. It seems to have had several windows which 
 are now boarded up, and covered with plaster which has 
 peeled off in many places. The door where you enter 
 is like those old Dutch doors which are cut in half, so 
 that the upper part opens while the lov/er part remains 
 shut. To-morrow I will enter this miserable looking 
 but immortal old shanty. 
 
 The church where Shakspeare is buried, has been 
 rebuilt in part, yet still looks old. It is pretty large in 
 size, with a high pointed steeple. The green grave- 
 yard in which it stands, is filled with tombstones, many 
 of them laid flat upon the ground, which seems to be 
 the fashion in old Enghsh churchyards. Near the 
 
 16 
 
182 STRATFORD-ON-AVON. 
 
 church were standing a number of tall trees in which 
 the rooks were building their nests, and keeping up a 
 continual cawing. I passed the church and went on 
 a short distance to see the River Avon, which we 
 should call a brook or a creek. Here I found a flower- 
 ing mill, which did not add to the romantic aspect of 
 the scene. Tlie country beyond the Avon was level 
 and clean. The river runs close by the church where 
 Shakspeare is buried. I followed the Avon down 
 through the town into the handsomely cultivated coun- 
 try; and strolled along its windings until twilight came on. 
 On both of its banks there were rows of trees, the tops 
 of which had been cut off. New tops were forming; 
 and the old stumps and new twigs were clearly mir- 
 rored in the stream which was made silver by the twi- 
 light sky. In the west were naiTow lines of clouds, 
 which were also reflected in the pure and classic 
 river. It was now getting dark, and the lights of the 
 town were glimmering through the trees. I retraced 
 my steps, and as I was passing through the little 
 wicket standing by the side of the turnpike gate, I met 
 the first tipsy man I had seen in England. As I en- 
 tered the town I passed a tavern, the door of which 
 opening, let out a sound of revelry. Old Jack Falstafifs 
 words cam.e into ray memory. " If sack and sugar be 
 a sin, Grod help the wicked !" 
 
 March 2Sth. — Washington Irving's bed-room was 
 quite small, but the bed was comfortable and the sheets 
 were clean. The curtains were of chintz, hned with 
 blue. The windows were shaded with snowy white 
 curtains, and the table cloth where stood the toilet 
 glass, was unexceptionably pure. 
 
 The morning was very fine. When I descended the 
 stairs, I saw'a man standing near the doorway that my 
 " prophetic soul " told me was the landlord; and on en- 
 quiry I found that my surmise was correct. He was a 
 ^'gross, fat man," and could have played the part of Fal- 
 stafi" without stufiing. "A plague on sighing and grief, 
 it blows a man up hke a bladder." 
 
STRATFORD-ON-AVON. 18S 
 
 I found the table spread for me in the Httle parlor, 
 which room was only about fifteen feet square. The 
 large cup and saucer, the crockery in general, the cloth 
 and all, were clean according to the English fashion. 
 There was a fire in the grate ; and upon each side of 
 the chimney, hung a bell-rope, adorned with large yel- 
 low tassels, so that a man and his wife could sit and 
 enjoy the fire, pull the two bell-ropes, give contradict- 
 ory orders, and be so comfortable. Upon the mantle- 
 shelf were two small white vases, and one or two lesser 
 things to hold papers for lighting candles. Behind 
 these stood a small mirror. In the window were some 
 pots 'containing tropical plants, upon which the glo- 
 rious sunlight was streaming. Some hair-bottomed 
 chairs and a calico covered sofa added to the comfort 
 of the room. 
 
 Beside the fire, the tea-kettle was placed; and the 
 maid of the day before, pensive but plump, appeared 
 and asked me what I would order for breakfast. Hav- 
 ing bi-ought me the eggs, tea and toast, the sedate dam- 
 sel disappeared, to ruminate perhaps that, — • 
 
 " The course of true love never did run smooth." 
 
 The breakfast was very satisfactory ; and according to 
 custom, the maid had brought in two small silver cad- 
 dies containing different teas, so that I could strength- 
 en my beverage if I repented of its weakness. She 
 had also added some bread and butter, the bread not 
 a whit better than ours. Wonderful, is it not, that the 
 great Anglo Saxon race with all their ingenuity, skill 
 and genius, and with all the good flour that they have 
 at command, cannot make bread ! The English are 
 too proud to leai'n from the French ; but we Yankees 
 being of an enquiring turn, certainly ought to ask for 
 information. 
 
 The " Efed Horse Tavern " is not far from the 
 " George and Dragon," and the " Gfeorge and Dragon" 
 is not far from the " Swan and Maidenhead," which 
 latter tavern is now closed, probably from want of cus- 
 tom. The very next house to this last, is that in which 
 
184 STRATFORD-ON-AVON. 
 
 Shakspeare was born. The house next beyond is a 
 small and miserable grocery and frait store, with a few 
 apples and lemons exposed in the window, and upon 
 the shelves a "• beggarly account of empty boxes." 
 
 I knocked at the door of Shakspeare's house,, and 
 was admitted by a respectable old lady, who is the 
 sole occupant of this famous shanty, which has once 
 been used as a butcher's shop. As I entered the door, 
 I saw \ipon a sign swinging over my head, these words, 
 — " The immortal Shakspeare was born in tbis house." 
 The dame first took me to a spot where Lucien Bona- 
 parte had written some lines upon the wall,, which un- 
 fortunately had been whitewashed over,, and so defaced. 
 But the poetry had been copied and preserved in a 
 frame,, in. which the author talked of " dropping a tear 
 to make a crystal shrine," which struck me as being a 
 truly French fancy. I was then shown to an old 
 rough stone chimney which was in use in Shakspeare's 
 time. We then ascended a rickety stairway into the 
 room where Shakspeare was born. This roora was 
 about twenty feet square, and so low that I could touch 
 the beams and floor above my head with my hand. 
 Upon the- white-washed sides of the room, tens of 
 thousands of names were written. The old lady point- 
 ed out the names of three personsto me,, who, evident- 
 ly, in her opinion, wei^e " great in mouths of wisest 
 censure." These were Walter Scott, Schiller, and 
 Harriet Beecher Stowe. She told me as I took out 
 my pencil, to write my name small ; and pointed t0'''a 
 place upon a post about two inches from the floor, 
 where I added my name to those of the other pilgrims. 
 
 A long, low and narrow window,, containing exceed- 
 ing'ly small panes of glass, admits hght'into the room» 
 It is warmed by ti large fire-place, which has doubtless 
 been a good deal altered since Shakspeare's day. One 
 or two small busts of Shakspeare were standing m the 
 window, and beside them lay a plaster cast taken from 
 the face of Garrick, the actor, which bore a remarka- 
 ble resemblance to the face of Edwin Forrest^ 
 
STRATFORD-ON-AVON. 185 
 
 I was invited to subscribe my name in a book of con- 
 tributions for liquidating a mortgage on Sbakspeare's 
 house, which by the date I saw had been kept open 
 several years. Being rather suspicious that all waa 
 not right, I changed the subject. Upon going down 
 Btairs, I wrote my name and residence in the visitors'' 
 book, and then departed from Sbakspeare's house 
 forever. 
 
 My next business was with the Parish Clerk, who has 
 charge of the key of the church where Shakspeare is 
 buried. I enquired my way to the house, and saw 
 upon a sign over the door, " T. Kite, Parish Clerk." 
 His wife came to the door, and from her I learned that 
 the old bird was at the church. I passed through 
 the green graveyard where were many mounds, not 
 mtirked by stones. In the church I found the clerk 
 with two young Englishmen, who had just entered. 
 He took us to the railing before the altar, where lay a 
 piece of matting, under which were the graves of 
 Shakspeare and some of his family. The clerk with- 
 drew the matting, and stepping up on the second plam 
 stone slab, I turned my back to the altar, and looking 
 down upon the grave of Shakspeare, read these words: 
 
 G-ood friend, for Jesus' sake forbear 
 To dig the dust enclosed lierc ; 
 Blest IS the man who spares these stones, 
 But curst be he who moves my bones." 
 
 Under my feet lay perhaps a little dust, or perhaps 
 a green and mouldering bone, which had once formed 
 a part of the soul case of a man who has created an 
 element which follows the Anglo Saxon race, hke light,, 
 wherever they go ; and which must eventually shed a 
 glory on the remotest corners of the earth. The worth- 
 lessiiess of the mere body, never struck me more forcibly 
 than now. Here was one gone to decay, and lost, yet 
 the products of its soul were daily acquiring fresh 
 vitality, as new men and new countries appeared upon, 
 the earth. 
 
 '■ The cloud cap'd towers, the gorgeous palaces, 
 The solemn temples, nay even the great globe itself," 
 
 must pass away as soon as Sbakspeare's fame. 
 
186 STRATFORD-ON-AVON. 
 
 His wife, Anne Hathaway, lies by his side, and upon 
 his other hand, his favorite daughter, Mrs. Hall, her 
 husband, and their child. Upoo the wall, about six 
 feet from thu floor, is a monument to S-hakspeare, 
 placed there soon after his death. The bust adorning 
 the monument has been supposed to be cut after a cast 
 taken from his face after death. It is fuller and rounder 
 than his face is made in any pictures that I have seen 
 of him. 
 
 Within the railing of the altai', is the tomb- of oM 
 John-a-Comb, the usurer, whose money bought him 
 this post of honor. His effigy in stone lies on the 
 tomb upon its back, and with clasped hands. Shaks- 
 peare's comical epitaph on the old usurer, is still extant. 
 
 Some of the oaken seats in the church are one hun- 
 dred years older than- S-hakspeare, and are still in es- 
 cellent condition. 
 
 I left the church slowly, and walked through the 
 villa;ge to sorr.-^ +^3lds which I was to cross in order to 
 find the cottage where Shakspeare courted Anne 
 Hathaway. While I was opening a gate, the two 
 Englishmen joined me; and before we got fairly into 
 the field", an old lady and her maid came up, who asked 
 permission to go with us to a neighboring stile, as they 
 were afraid of the cows. Over these fields, now be- 
 coming green and spring-like. Will Shakspeare had 
 often hastene<l to the hamlet of Shottery, where lived 
 his Anne Hathaway. 
 
 " Sweet Anne Hathaway, 
 ■ She halh a way 
 To make folks gay 
 Sweer. Aime H;uhaway !:" 
 
 The old thatched house of the Hathaway's is now 
 occupied by several famihes. Mrs. Baker, who claims 
 to be a regular descendant from the family, exhibited 
 to us two or three rooms, with low ceilings above our 
 heads, with beams exposed, all whitewashed and look- 
 ing clean and tidy. The floors were of flat stones ; tho 
 windows low and narrow with small pane.s of glass ^ 
 
STRATFORD-ON-AVON. 187 
 
 and there was a large, wide chimney which was said to 
 be in existence in the days of the ancient Hathaway's. 
 Abotit the cottage is a pleasant rural district. Here 
 Shakspeare used to come of an evening, and take Anne 
 out for a walk. Perhaps they went through fields a 
 mile or two, to the pure Avon, not discolored by the 
 dirt of cities, but winding down among green and 
 mossy banks through the clean country. The moon 
 would rise, and the odor of flowers come floating to 
 them on the lingering evening breeze, while afar off 
 might be heard the " dying fall" of distant music. The 
 recollT3ction of such a night may have been the origin 
 of a scene in the " Merchant of Venice," which I have 
 always thought very beautiful. 
 
 Lorenzo. " The moon shines bright.— In such, a night as this. 
 
 When the sweet wind did gently kiss the trees, 
 k And they did make no noise ; in such a n'ght, 
 
 Troiliis, methiuks, mounted the Trojan walls, 
 
 And sighed his soul towards the Grecian tents, 
 
 VVhere Cressid lay that night. 
 Jessica. In such a night, 
 
 Did Thisbe fearfully o'ertrip the dew ; 
 
 And saw the lion's shadow ere himself,. 
 
 And ran dismayed away. 
 Lorenzo. In such a night,. 
 
 Stood Dido, with a willow in her hand 
 
 Upon the wild sea banks, and waved her love 
 
 To come again to Carthage. 
 Jessica. la snch a night, 
 
 Medea gathered the enchanted herbs 
 
 That did renew old jEson. 
 Lorenzo. In such a night. 
 
 Did Jessica steal from the wealthy Jew ; 
 
 Apd with an unthrifc love did run from Venice, 
 
 As fir as Belmont. 
 Jessica. In such a night, 
 
 Did young Lorenzo swear ho loved her well ; 
 
 Stealing her soul with many vows of faith, 
 
 And ne'er a true one. 
 Lorenzo. In such a n'ght. 
 
 Did pretty Jessica, like a little shrew. 
 
 Slander her love, and ho forgave it her. 
 
 How sweet the moonlight sleeps upon this bank ! 
 Here will we sit, and lot the rounds of music 
 Creep in our ears ; soft stillness, and the uight, 
 Become the touches of sweet harmony. 
 Sit Jessica. Look, how the floor of heaven 
 Is thick inlaid with patinos of bright gold. 
 There's not the smale^'t orb which tuou behold'st 
 But in his motion like ai) angel sings. 
 Still quiring to the youug-eyed cherubims ; 
 
188 STRATFORD-ON-AVON. 
 
 Such harmony is in immortal souls ; 
 
 Bnt while this muddj' vesture of decay ' 
 
 Doth grossly cloie us in, we cannot hear it." 
 
 Pive miles from Stratford is the seat of Sir Thomas 
 Lucy, whose deer Shakspeare stole. The place is still 
 in the possession of descendants of the old Squire. 
 
 Stratford is a quiet village. There are some tall 
 chimnej^s in the outskirts of the town, denoting manu- 
 factories ; but they make no noise. The weather is now 
 pleasant ; and the level country around is dreamy and 
 hazy. The Avon does not run, but ghdes as with bare 
 feeLover a velvet sward. There is a rural contem- 
 plative calm; a. thoughtful silence, as if Shakspeare 
 were still present and reading his own heart in a low 
 clear voice to all mankind ; while the elements, owning 
 the great bond that links the universal heart of man, 
 had hushed themselves to hsten. Yes, in this spot lived 
 the wild ungoverned boy, who in after life drew from 
 the -store which God had placed within him, handfulls of 
 liquid pearls which he scattered over the earth in bound- 
 less profusion, making for himself 
 
 "One of the few immortal names, 
 That \Yere not born to die," 
 
 I left Stratford with regret ; and more than once in 
 my tour through England, was inclined to return to. 
 it. 
 
 In the afternoon I left Stratford-Upon-Avon by 
 " coach" for Warwick. Besides the seats in the interior, 
 there were also seats upon the top, before and behind. 
 I got up on the rear elevation so that I could get a view 
 of the country. The coachman was a respectable look- 
 ing grey-haired old man, with a broad-brimmed hat and 
 white cravat. In our country he would have passed 
 as a deacon of a church. The road was chiefly on a 
 hill, from which on each side extended views of AVar- 
 wickshire were enjoyed by me. Truly a very handsome 
 country. I stopped at the George Tavern, in Warwick. 
 The "Assizes" were now being held, and a number of 
 tlW witnesses were stopping at this house, as well as, 
 
WARWICK. 189 
 
 several individuals whom I judged to be " commercial 
 travellers." These last, were a noisy, obstreperous set, 
 talking loud and drinking deep. Their nature is similar 
 to that of the New- York commercial " drummer," and 
 they do not seem to stand very high in the estimation 
 of their fellow citizens. While I was sitting in the 
 cofi'ee-room, a person came in fi^om the court and an- 
 nounced that a certain trial in which the parties seemed 
 to take an interest, was concluded ; and that the man 
 on trial had been sentenced to fifteen years transpor- 
 tation, for writing a threatening letter to his father. 
 
 After my dinner I walked down to a bridge over the 
 Eiver Avon, which passes along the outskirts of the 
 town. Warwick Castle stood upon its banks not far 
 from the bridge, reflected against the evening slcy, and 
 shining down in the still stream. 
 
 The bells of two churches were ringing their chimes^ 
 and a strolling band of musicians were playing in the 
 streets, as I walked back through the town. When I 
 got to the tavern, I found that the commercial rowdies 
 had introduced a man into the cofFee-roora who was 
 playing on the clarionet and making a great noise. I 
 could easily have imagined myself among the New-York 
 " Empire Club." 
 
 The women at this hotel seemed to manage its busi- 
 ness, for the men were invisible. It struck me that 
 these females were inclined to be impudent, havingpro- 
 bably got contaminated by associating with the " com- 
 mercial travellers." 
 
 To get away from the noise in the coffee-room, I went 
 up to my sleeping apartment. As I sat here, at about 
 nine o'clock, one of the church bells began chiming, 
 not a psalm or hymn, but the old song of " Dear Tom, 
 this brown jug that now foams with mild ale." 
 
 March 29th. — I went down to a gate in the wall 
 surrounding the grounds of Warwick Castle, Adhere I 
 was admitted by an old lady, who at once took me into 
 a small room in the lodge by the gate, where was kept 
 the old armor J, &e., of the ancient Earls of Warwick. 
 
190 WARWICK, 
 
 Here was the two handed sword of Gruy, Earl of 
 "Warwick, the giant, who was eight feet, eleven inches 
 tall. The sword was somewhat shorter than a tele- 
 graph pole and quite appropriate for a giant to wield. 
 Gruy's punch bowl holding one hundred gallons, stands 
 in the middle of the room. The armor and weapons 
 of Warwick, the Kingmaker, were also shewn me. And 
 some bullets fired at the Castle by Cromwell's men. 
 
 I walked up a lane between old walls hung with iv}'', 
 to the Castle. I crossed a dry moat, passed under the 
 arched gateway and entered the court-yard, covered 
 with green grass, trees and flowers. Going now^ up to 
 a handsome modern door of the Castle, I rang the bell, 
 and was admitted by a servant into a hall where I was 
 met by the Earl's housekeeper, a well formed English 
 woman of about thirty-five j^ears of age. I told her 
 the object of my visit, and was informed that as the 
 family were absent in Scotland, she would shew me 
 through some of the rooms of the Castle. I found the 
 rooms and furniture quite in palace style. There were 
 some high oak carved ceilings, som^ apartments in 
 which a good deal of gilding was visible, some fine 
 paintings, mosaic tables, &c. The housekeeper stumbled 
 over the letter H. She pointed out to me the portraits 
 of " Eury the Heighth," " Holiver Cromwell," (who 
 looked like an old blood-thirsty fanatic,) "Hanne Bul- 
 len," (not so very handsome either,) Philip Sidney, 
 Queen Anne, (said to be the best likeness of her,) Queen 
 Elizabeth, Prince Rupert, &c. These portraits, paint- 
 ed by the most eminent artists, are considered as the 
 most correct likenesses of these celebrated individuals 
 extant; and are now of great value. • 
 
 After the housekeeper had shewn me a good many 
 curiosities and cherished relics, among which was the 
 " elmet of Holiver Cromwell," she asked me to write 
 my name and residence in the visitor's book, which I 
 did with considerable of a flourish, hoping that it might 
 do the Earl's eyes good wlien he returns from Scotland. 
 I. then enquired of the well-built housekeeper, — who I 
 
WAE-WICK. 191 
 
 found was making a decided impression upon a palpi- 
 tating portion of my system lying under the left side 
 of my vest, — whether I might offer her a small fee for 
 her kindness and attention. She took jt. 
 r- I went out again into the court yard were the ivy 
 w^as chmbing up to the very battlements. One or two 
 of the towers in the wall around the court yard is nine 
 hundred years old. One of the Earl's " retainers," a 
 lame man, met me here and took me to see the cele- 
 brated Warwick vase, standing in the green house 
 among shrubs and flowers. This vase holds one hun- 
 dred and sixty gallons. It was found in Adrian's villa 
 near Tivoli, not far from Rome. 
 
 Outside the wall the park is seen to a great advant- 
 age. It is five miles in circumference. The Avon 
 winds through it close by the castle, the views from 
 the windows of which, are, without exception, most 
 beautiful. I saw some cedar trees in the park, which 
 I was told were five hundred years old. The trunk of 
 one of them I guessed to be seven or eight feet in di- 
 ameter. There were also some Spanish chesnuts, 
 whose branches bending to the orround, formed new 
 trunks, which in their turn w^ent and did likewise. 
 
 Adjoining the castle, a small corn-mill stands upon 
 the Avon. The Earl of Warwick thus choosing to 
 mingle the useful and the ornamental. 
 
 This castle is in excellent repair, and looks as good 
 as new. Take it with its lawns and groves, its grass 
 plats and its flowers, and the Avon tw^ining its 
 silver thread among them all, and it is emphatically the 
 most beautiful place I ever beheld. 
 
 To while away the time I went to see how the " As- 
 sizes" were getting on. The lawyers were dressed in 
 wigs and gowns. The judge was got up in a more 
 extensive manner, and by the aid of his robes and big 
 wig made quite an impression upon strangers. The 
 cause was something about a "hingin," which we igno- 
 rant Americans would have called an engine. But then 
 Tou see we do not understand the English language aa 
 
192 KENILWORTH. 
 
 thoroughly as do the English people. One of the 
 lawyers who was questioning a witness in reference to 
 on account, and who should have been an educated 
 man, spoke ofthe " hodd days." 
 
 From the court room I strolled into the country to 
 look at the farms, which, as a matter of course present- 
 ed a pleasant face. But I suppose the farmers do not 
 own much of the land. It belongs to some titled aris- 
 tocrat, or squire, who gripes it with a hard hand. 
 
 In the afternoon, I took the omnibus from Warwick 
 to the railway station, from whence I had a short 
 journey to Kenilworth. The castle is mostly in ruins ; 
 the better part of it is in tolerable repair, occupied by a 
 " gentleman farmer." A portion ofthe castle was 
 built by John of Gaunt ; a part by the Earl of Leices- 
 ter and others. Some massive square towers are 
 standing alone by themselves enveloped in a complete 
 matting of green ivy^ which makes their ancient windows 
 look hke loop-holes. The place where "Amy Robsart" is 
 said to have hid herself to watch the Earl of Leicester 
 and Queen Elizabeth while walking in the garden, was 
 pointed out to me. Eemnants ofthe banquet hall, and 
 of the rooms occupied by the Queen while entertained 
 here seventeen days by the Earl of Leicester, still ex- 
 ist. I saw part of a dungeon with holes in the wall, 
 where iron loops were placed, so that prisoners could 
 be confined in an upright position, with their backs to 
 ed the wall and their hands drawn wide apart as if extend 
 ed on a cross. There are some old Norman arches, which 
 date back seven hundred years, and are now in excellent 
 condition, although they have never been repaired. 
 Much of this castle was pulled down -by Cromwell's 
 fanatical officers.- Beyond the walls I had a view of & 
 level plain, upon which was formerjy a lake, and the 
 once famous " pleasant gardens." The old tournament 
 5^round was also pointed out to me. The man who 
 showed me the ruins lived on the estate when Walter 
 Scott stayed here, engaged in writing his novel of Ken- 
 ilworth. The estate ia now owned by the Earl of Cla- 
 rendon. 
 
BIRMINGHAM. 193 
 
 The village of Kenilworth is like Warwick and Strat- 
 ford, quiet, or dull, as we should call it in America. There 
 are no houses of wood — I have seen none in Europe — 
 all of brick and stone. No new buildings going up. 
 England is finished. 
 
 I had another short railway ride to Coventry. To be 
 ^' piat into Coventry" is considered equivalent to being 
 put out of the pale of society, yet there are thirty-six 
 thousand inhabitants in this town. The place must have 
 been of some importance in Jack FalstafiTs time,who said, 
 while contemplating his ragged soldiers — "I'll not march 
 through Coventry with 'em ; that's flat." I got my 
 dinner at Kenilworth in the King's Arms ; and here at 
 Coventry, I am in the King's Head. I have walked 
 over part of the town by gas light. It has many low, 
 old fashioned buildings, with bow-windows and peaked 
 roofs. Also taverns, ale houses, &c. But as more 
 beer and ale are drank here than brandy, there is less 
 " tightness" than with us. 
 
 March 30th. — I rode over the outskirts of the cele- 
 brated manufacturing town of Birmingham, whose tall 
 chimneys fill the atmosphere with coal smoke and make 
 the place look dingy enough. They used to make our 
 tea pots and soup ladles here, but we have now found 
 the way to do thus much for ourselves. After remain- 
 ing for an hour in the suburbs of the city, I took a place 
 for Glasgow in the express train. Fare $16, for ten 
 and a half hours' I'ide ; but then you get with it that 
 which is a scarce article in democratic countries — civili- 
 ty. It was a handsome country through which the road 
 ran ; and a number of manufacturing towns were passed. 
 At Preston, three Scotchmen for Glasgow got into the 
 carriage where I was ; and soon after two of them. 
 placing a cushion on their knees, took out a pack of 
 cards and began to play for small stakes. The other 
 Scotchman entered into conversation with me ; inform- 
 ed me that he had been for many years in the American 
 trade; that he had but now returned from London, 
 whither he had been to urge upon Parliament the pas- 
 
 17 
 
194 GLASGOW. 
 
 sage of a bill authorising and assisting the Glasgow peo- 
 ple to supply their city with water from Loch Katrine, 
 lying about thirty miles away. A committee had been 
 appointed by Parliament to analyze the water, and 
 they had reported that it was too j»z<re, so much so that 
 it would corrode lead pipes and make the use of it dan- 
 gerous. The Griasgow man informed me that he had 
 sent to New York for some of the Croton, and to other 
 places, for the purpose of testing the action of different 
 waters on lead pipe. 
 
 We were now riding through the hills of Cumberland 
 district in which were situated some romantic lakes, 
 once frequented by the small-beer poets of England, 
 who thus acquired the name of Lakers. The train soon 
 passed near Brougham Hall, the country seat of the 
 eminent and eccentric Lord Brougham. 
 
 It had now got to be ten o'clock at night, when the sky 
 became illuminated on the horizon by numerous fires, 
 making a picture like that of theijurning of Moscow. 
 These lights were caused by iron furnaces, which are here 
 quite numerous. I saw a dozen oi them in a cluster, 
 ail in full blast, and piling up fortunoe for their owners. 
 
 At eleven o'clock I reached Glasgow and took up 
 my quarters at the Queen's Hotel, after paying the 
 cabman double fare, which they are allowed to exact 
 immediately after eleven at night. I was now comfort- 
 ably lodged in a nice clean hotel, in the midst of four 
 hundred thousand inhabitants. I went to the Coffee 
 Eoom to get some provender, and as I opened the 
 door, a perfume — precisely such as I had expected— 
 saluted my nostrils ; the odor of whiskey. Scotland 
 smells of it as England does of mutton. Scotland is 
 Whiskeylandr The Coffee Eoomofthe "Queens," I 
 found to be the handsomest one attached to any hotel 
 I had seen in Europe. It had a high, ornamented 
 ceiling; long mirrors, stained glass windows, and was 
 finished off about the doors and windows with glossy 
 oaken wood. It was rather late for dinner — near mid- 
 night — but if a man doth not eat at some time, he will 
 verily starve at some time. 
 
GLASGOW. — -DUMBARTON. 195 
 
 Glasgow, March 2,\st. — Without; stopping to look 
 about the city this morning, I hastened to the River 
 Clyde and got on board of a small narrow steamer, so 
 as to get down to Loch Lomond, which I much desired 
 to see. For several miles below the town, the banks of 
 the river were occupied by vessels under repair and 
 vessels building. The click and clang of hammers 
 against hull, and boilers, was heard on every hand. I 
 could hardly imagine this to be the stream of which the 
 poet eingS) 
 
 " I've waiulercd mony a night in June, 
 " Along tl.B banks of Ulydo ; 
 " Bencatli tlie bright and bonny moon, 
 " Witli Mary by my side." 
 
 The banks of the river are flat and uninteresting. 
 The stream widens and shrinks with the tide, so that 
 its width varies greatly in a short space of time. After 
 I landed from the boat, I had eight miles to perform 
 by railway, passing Dumbarton Castle, which is still 
 maintained as a fortress ; and the town or village where 
 once lived, 
 
 "Dumbarton's bonny belie." 
 
 The road ended at Balloch, where " Roy's wife of 
 Aldivalloch" cheated some one as he " came o'er the 
 braes of Balloch." 
 
 Here was the foot of Loch Lomond, which appeared 
 like a river winding up among the distant highlands. 
 The lake is twenty-four miles long, and studded with 
 romantic Islands, not so pretty, as I infer from what 
 has been told me, as those of our Lake George, but 
 still very well for a small place like Scotland. A small 
 steamboat which goes up the lake with visitors, had 
 left in the morning before I arrived, so I was fain 
 to content myself with a near view of one end of the 
 " Loch," with swans floating here and there on its 
 bosom ; and a distant view of the highlands. "While I 
 was standing here, smoke rose up among the hills, and 
 I could easily imagine it to proceed from one of the 
 signal fires that heralded the gathering of the clans. 
 
 " The Campbells are coming from bonny Loch Lomond." 
 
19^ AYRSHIRE. 
 
 Beyond Loch Lomond, lies Loch Katrine, which is 
 only about eight miles long. History and Poetry have 
 made these lakes and highlands famous. 
 
 I returned to Glasgow, of which city I had formed 
 a very erroneous idea. I had been led to believe that 
 it was a low, nasty, commercial town ; but I find it a 
 large, clean city, with some handsome buildings and 
 many spacious streets. A handsome brown stone, 
 similar to that made use of in New Yo^ k, is here per- 
 ceivable, and forms numerous edifices. The Eoyal 
 Exchange is a fine building. In front of it stands an 
 equestrian statue to the Duke of Wellington, which 
 looks like all equestrian statues— which look like nobody. 
 This one might as well be called Dick Tui'pin, as the 
 Duke of Wellington. In Glasgow is an arcade quite 
 in Paris style, and filled with shops. In front of the 
 Queen's Hotel is a pretty park, wherein stands a tali 
 column in memory of Sir Walter Scott. 
 
 Besides the manufactories situated in the outskirts, 
 there are a number scattered through the city, where 
 you may hear the grunting and groaning boilers and 
 engines hard at work. Glasgow is a solid, substantial, 
 thriving town ; and I feel a pleasure in saying so. 
 
 April \st. — A horizontal and perpendicular drizzling 
 rain prevails to-day, and an umbrella is- of very little 
 use. As I am "^engaged for only a limited number of 
 nights," as they say in the play-bills, I must at once 
 make my excursion to Ayrshire to see the place from 
 whence came Robert Burns. On my way thither by 
 "rail," I saw the famous manufacturing city of Paisley, 
 with some other places of lesser note. My eyes were 
 regaled with many fine farms, though there was on my 
 route considerable rough, uncultivated land, covered 
 with low bushes. 
 
 An ancient and venerable authority would make it 
 appear that Ayrshire is full of " high mountains and 
 roaring pools." Now, although the earth is undergo- 
 ing perpetual changes under the action of the ele- 
 ments, I can hardly believe that the countiy ef Ayr- 
 
,-.0;^%,^^ '^ ' 
 
ATK.SHIRE. 197 
 
 shire has so suddenly had its elevations depressed and 
 its roaring pools dried up. If any of the latter do 
 now exist, they " roar you as gently as a sucking 
 dove; an' it were any nightingale." The Scotch au- 
 thor above referred to ,has not left us in his auto-biog- 
 raphy any clue by which we can form an idea of his 
 habits of refreshment, but I have powerful suspicions 
 that be was present when 
 
 "Willie brew'd a pock of malt, 
 And Rob and Allan came to see," 
 
 and that this description of Ayrshire may have been 
 written about that time. I do not directly charge the 
 venerable author with being "/ow," but am constrained 
 to believe that he had 
 
 " Just a drappie in his ec." 
 
 In two hours after leaving Glasgow, I reached Ayr 
 which I found to be a respectable looking place enough. 
 A river of the same name runs through the town. Some 
 of the people in the streets watched my mevements as 
 curiously as if they had been my Yankee countrymen. 
 In fact the Scotch resemble the Americans in many re- 
 spects. 
 
 A cab ride of two or three miles brought me into the 
 country where stood the cottage in which Burns was 
 born. It was a small, thatched, whitewashed house, 
 with the roof so low that I could and did lay my hand 
 upon it. The family who occupy it were at dinner ; 
 but the gudewife came to the door and invited me to 
 walk in. The gudeman and the children continued 
 eating while I surveyed the two apartments, com- 
 prising all the inner portion of the house as it was in 
 the days of Burns' father. Behind the man's back 
 as he sat at table, was a recess in the wall. In that 
 hole Bobby Burns was born. There was an old fire 
 place in the room which dates from an early day ; 
 the floor is of stone. The ceiling is a modern addi- 
 tion ; the roof and rafters being formerly exposed to 
 view. 
 
 The woman took me into a capacious refreshment 
 
 IT* 
 
198 AYRSHIRE. 
 
 room, which has lately been erected and attnched to 
 the house, for the comfort of the many visitors who 
 come down here in summer. This apartment was 
 furnished in modern style, and appeared quite unlike 
 tlie two plain rooms I had just quitted. 
 
 I rode on further to see the kirk of AUoway. The 
 sky looked threatening, although the weather had given 
 tokens of a "change of heart," 
 
 " Yon murky clwul is- foni with rain, 
 I sec it driving o'er the phiiii." 
 
 Kirk Alloway is quite diminutive in size. It is of a 
 rough stone, its roof gone, and it stands with its "gable 
 end" to the road. Upon the nearest peak still hangs a 
 bell about as large as a pumpkin. The sidowalls of 
 the church are about ten feet high. The interior of 
 the building is divided by a wall into two small i-ooms ; 
 in the centre of the largest of which stands the tomb of 
 some person. It required a powerful s?tretch of the im- 
 magination to n\ake either of these apartments large 
 enough for a dance of witches, for it would hardly suiBce 
 as a playground for the children of faries. Yet it was 
 here that Tam O'Shanter saw the "warlocks and witches 
 in a dance." And when he was discovered it was down 
 the very road which I was travelling, that he was pursu- 
 ed by the "hellish crew," one of whom pulled oti' the tail 
 of his "grey mare Meg" just as she was springii>g upon 
 the old bridge over tiie Doon, where Tam was safe, 
 for witches cannot cross running water. The Doon 
 is only about twenty feet wide, but it is quite a rapid 
 stream. The " auld brig," built of rough stone, is 
 higher in themiddlo than at the ends, being built over 
 a single arch. 
 
 Between the Brig of Doon and Kirk Alloway stands 
 Burn's mouuumenr. There is a room upon which stands 
 a circular row of ^'olumns supporting a roof. It is a 
 very decent monument. In the room is a glass case, 
 and within that lies a small bible given by Burns to 
 his Highland JSlary. This little old bible would drive 
 all the book collectors out of their wits (if they had, 
 any) could it once be put up at auction. 
 
BURNS MAUSOLEUM DUMFRIES. 
 
AYKSHIRE. 199 
 
 " Tam O'Shanter and Souter Johnny," sculptured 
 in dark stone by Thom, were exhibited to me. Copies 
 of this work have been shown in America. They are 
 a jolly looking pair, Tam and the Souter. The latter, a 
 dry looking wag, is telling one of his funniest stories 
 at which Tam is laughing heartily. No wonder 
 that 
 
 " Tam lo'ed him like a very brither ; 
 They had been fou fur weeks thegither." 
 
 I wish that the sculptor had tried his hand once 
 again, and represented these worthies at the close of 
 their carouse, when 
 
 " Souter was fou, but Tam was g-lorious ! 
 O^cr all the hills of life victorious." 
 
 The locality in which I stood was a famous one, made 
 so by the genius of Burns, but it was on a very small 
 scale, like many other celebrated places of which we 
 read, and form large ideas. The old Kirk Allowayisa 
 small affair; the distance to the Brig of Boon is rather 
 short for a race ; the bridge itself is not a bit wider 
 than necessary, and its length of very little account 
 when youlearn that it spans a brook not much broader 
 than a useful ditch for draining wet land. Yet people 
 will come to this spot for many a long year after you 
 and I are gone. 
 
 Burns died and was buried at Bumfries, about sixty 
 miles from Aj^r. Over these quiet country scenes he 
 had wandered and looked at the Carrick Hills (not 
 mountains) which now I saw. Here, while in de- 
 spondency, he might have sung, 
 
 " While thus I wander, pressed with care, 
 Along the gloomy banks of Ayr." 
 
 Poor Bobby ! what evil had he committed in some 
 former state of existence that he should be afflicted in 
 this with the sensitive soul of a poet, with a ferocious 
 amativeness, with his nation's passion for grog and with 
 an ever stringent money market. 
 
 Somewhat thoughtful and absorbed, I left "the banks 
 and bra^s of bonny Boon," and rode back to Ayr,, 
 
200 EDINBURGH. 
 
 which place I reached in time for the train. Arriving 
 at Glasgow, I partook of a " hasty plate of soup," put 
 my affiiirs in order, and taking the cars for Edinburgh, 
 fell asleep for two and a half hours and awoke in the 
 "modern Athens." Here I became an inmate of the 
 Caledonian Hotel. 
 
 Edinburgh, A^jril 2d. — " Edinborough," as the Scotch 
 call it, contains nearly two hundred thousand people. 
 The city is divided by a deep ravine into the Old Town 
 and New Town. The latter is clean and handsome, with 
 a number of small green parks, comfortable dwelhng 
 houses, and monuments and statues placed here and there 
 at conspicuous corners. Upon the edge of the ravine, in 
 the new town, stands the monument of Sir Walter 
 Scott — the noblest monument I ever saw. It resembles 
 the tower and steeple of a church set upon a huge pe- 
 destal. The statue of Scott in a sitting posture, read- 
 ing a book, is seen in the tower. While I was looking 
 at it, a little bird flew in and alighted on the arm of the 
 marble man, where he remained for some time. The 
 monument is of a handsome brown stone, of most taste- 
 ful and elaborate architecture, and is about two hundred, 
 feet high. 
 
 The ravine or valley between the old and new towns, 
 is laid out into public walks and gardens. The railway 
 runs through the middle of it. 
 
 Near Scott's monument is the Royal Institution of 
 Arts and Sciences, a fine edifice of grey stone, remind- 
 ing one of the prints of the Parthenon at Athena. 
 Directly in the rear of this building, another, quite in 
 the Grecian style, is being erected of a -whitish stone. 
 It is to be devoted to literary and scientific uses. 
 
 Looking across the ravine, you see the Castle perch- 
 ed', upon a great hill of rock, several hundred feet in 
 height. It is a strong fortress and commands the entire 
 town. W-h6n I had crossed over to it and was examin- 
 ing its exterior, a man joined me and pointed out some 
 of its outside notable features. First, the window of 
 the room where the Queen of Scots was confined as ^ 
 
EDINBURGH. 201 
 
 prisoner ; and where she gave birth to her son James, 
 who was let down afterwards from the window in a 
 basket. Then he pointed to other spots about the old 
 fortress, each celebrated for something which I now 
 forget. The Castle just now is thinly garrisoned, the 
 soldiers having been sent off to Turkey. 
 
 In the valley I had just crossed, the man called my 
 attention to a dwelling once occupied by Allan Ramsay, 
 author of the "Gentle Shepherd." 
 
 Looking in another direction, the eye ranged over 
 the roofs of the old town, with the Pentland Hills in 
 the distance. To the left of the view, lies a mountain 
 which contains the Salisbury Crags and "Arthur's Seat." 
 At the foot of the mountain, or big hill, is the cottage 
 of Jeanie Deans, made immortal by Walter Scott. 
 
 We went down from the castle hill, and he shewed 
 me the Duke of Argyle's old house ; dark and dingy 
 as a fortress. I was then taken into a graveyard,, 
 where many of the old Covenanters lie buried.. Then 
 we walked down the street into a steep lane where 
 stood a wretched looking old house, in which Walter 
 Scott was born. He pointed out the house of Mary of 
 Guise, and several other curiosities, until we reached 
 the outskirts of the city, where the grass begins, and 
 where stood the cottage of Jeanie Deans, small and 
 low like the one in which Burns was born, but with a 
 tiled roof The cottage is occupied by two old maids, 
 who refuse to show it to gentlemen unless accompanied 
 by ladies. The Edinburgh women love to defame each 
 other, just like the females of other cities and coun- 
 tries. 
 
 The Laird of Dumbiedike's house is to the left of the 
 cottage. He, also, was made famous by Sir Walter. 
 
 We now made for "Arthur's Seat" — so called from 
 being often visited by Prince Arthur — eight hundred 
 and twenty-two feet high in the air. A good road, 
 called the Queen's Road, winds around part of the 
 mountain, from whence beautiful views of a pretty 
 country are obtained. A small loch or two lay beneath 
 
202 EDINBURGH. 
 
 me ; nud further on was the Frith of Forth ; the 
 battle gTonnd of Preston Pans and the Lammermuir 
 Hills. The lands of the Duke of Bueoleueh, and 
 another titled old cock, whose name I forget, were 
 pointed out to me by my guide. 
 
 A little loch, or lake, "was on our right, away up on 
 the raountaius, as we turned from the road to climb to 
 the pinnacle of Arthur's Seat. We should term such 
 a little lake iu America, a /;o»f?, but big words, like 
 military titles with us, are iu Europe often applied to 
 small tilings. 
 
 The view from the top of the mountain was very 
 pleasant. It would have been grand but for a haze 
 which curbed our view in the distance. Not the least 
 pleasant prospect, was to see the climbing parties of 
 lads and lasses beneath us, who were laughing and en- 
 joying their iSabbath holiday. They could not have 
 been " Scotch Presbyterians," else their faces would 
 have been as long as your arm. God makes nature to 
 smile, the lambs to play and the birds to sing and sport 
 on Sundays. Man makes himself look grim and gloomy. 
 Man wants kicking. 
 
 "We descended the hill, and passing Jeanie Deans' 
 well, shaped our course for Holyrood Palace. This is 
 not an overpowering piece of architecture to look at, 
 though the editice does possess considerable historical 
 interest. The grounds attached to it are small but 
 pretty. The apartn:ents occupied by Queen Victoria, 
 when she visits Edinburgh, were pointed out to me; 
 also an old chapel, now belonging to the palace, which 
 I w^as told was seven hundred years of age. At the 
 front of the palace, or near it, was ' the turret where 
 Queen Mary was taking her repast when David Rizzio 
 was stabbed. The garden where the Queen used to 
 walk, is near this. 
 
 Leaving the old palace, we went up the Canongate, 
 seeing the house of Regent Murray, and near it a tree 
 planted by Mary Queen of Scots. Also a Tolbooth, 
 or prison, erected in King David's time. Also the 
 
EDINBURGH. 203 
 
 house of John Knox, now used as a " grocery and pro- 
 vision store," having one window devoted to pipes and 
 tobacco. Also the "Wiiite Close, a court or lane in 
 which now stands a building used as a tavern in the 
 days of James the Sistli. I saw, also, one of the tallest 
 houses in Edinburgh, situated on a side-hill, and being 
 eleven stories high on one side. 
 
 We met many people coming down the " High street" 
 from "Kirk." And when I had crossed over to the new 
 town, the good folks were also pouring along the side- 
 walk. The Scotchmen truly dress and look very like the 
 Americans. They are not a handsome race of men, 
 but more respectable and less bombastic than the 
 English. They assimilate with us more easily than 
 the other subjects of Great Britain. A decided im- 
 provement would be effected in the Scotch, if they 
 could be rendered less prejudiced. But you might 
 as well endeavor to separate a Scotchman from his 
 prejudices, as an Englishman from his conceit sji^ pom- 
 posity^ a Frenchman from his cafe, and heartlessness, or 
 a Yankee from his Jtat and prying curiosity. 
 
 The Scotchwomen are not handsome, but aj)pear more 
 modest in their deportment than the Enghsh. They re- 
 semble the English in one respect — they evidently stand 
 No. 2, in their families. The husband is, as he sould b«, 
 No. 1, Now this is not so with us. The contrast 
 strikes me more forcibly abroad, where I have met 
 several American families, in every one of which the 
 " ^''^^y mare was the better horse." Our little girls 
 too, of fourteen and sixteen years of age, put them- 
 selves forward in the hotels and other public places 
 in Europe, and hardly wait to bo spoken to first. 
 There is a soft spot in the head or heart of the Amer- 
 ican. Let him tread Vv'ith caution. Herodotus tells 
 us of a people in Egypt where the women subdued 
 the men, and compelled them to perform all the house- 
 hold offices, while they managed the out-of-door busi- 
 ness, and all the affairs of the state. And yet Horace 
 Greely and other ugly old feminines, are continually 
 
204 MELROSE. ABBOTSFORD. 
 
 crying out for Women's Eights ! Now, I say, let the 
 press from Maine to California, raise a new banner, 
 and inscribe upon it " Men's Eights 1" Americans! 
 look your peril boldly in the face ! ! Let us gird up 
 our loins and be up and stirring ! ! ! Liberty or death. 
 
 April 'id. — Edinburgh, like ancient Home, is built 
 upon bills. To-day I ascended the Calton Hill, from 
 whence is a good view of the city, and also of a large 
 tract of country. Upon this hill are monuments to 
 Playfair, Dugald Stewart and Nelson ; and near the 
 hill is one to Burns. Upon the summit of the Calton 
 is a front of columns of an unfinished building, which 
 looks quite like an ancient ruin. An engineer, with 
 seven shillings and a bottle of whiskey in his pocket, 
 came up here a few days ago, and deliberately blew 
 out his brains with a pistol. An indentation on a board 
 fence made by a piece of his skull was shown to me. 
 
 Edinburgh is one of the neatest and quietest cities 
 I have yet seen. Just the town for a hterary man to 
 reside in. It lights up well at night, when hills and 
 dales of lamps in the streets and hghts in the windows 
 variegate the new town ; while< on the other side of 
 the valley, in the old town, stretches an illuminated 
 hill side, checked to the right by the dark mass of rock 
 upon which stands the castle. Even the pohcemen of 
 the city are lit up at night ; each of them carry a small 
 lamp attached to his belt, which afar off resemble glow 
 worms. 
 
 I went down by rail to-day to the rusty old stone 
 village of Melrose. There I took a vehicle and rode 
 through a hilly romantic country to view Abbotsford, 
 the residence of the great Sir Walter Scott. The 
 house is hid by some trees, on passing which you come 
 to a small lodge, from whence you get near a view of 
 Abbotsford standing down in the valley. The house is 
 half castle and half house; just such a dwelhng as you 
 would suppose a man of Sir Walter's pecuhar tastes 
 would build for himself. Just behind it runs the Eiver 
 Tweed ; and beyond that the country rises up into a 
 
ABBOTSFORD. 205 
 
 range of handsome hills. Scott owned no land beyond 
 the Tweed, his possessions lying on the other side of 
 the high road, where lies a large tract of woodland, 
 the purchase of which helped to involve him in a 
 mass of debt under which he struggled so manfully in 
 his last years. He died with the harness on his back. 
 
 " Charge, Chester, charge. On, Stanley, on ! 
 Were the last words of Marmion." 
 
 There is admittance to Abbotsford on a certain day 
 of the week, to see the great author's study, his curi- 
 osities, &c. Not being able to wait for the day to ar- 
 rive, I contented myself with an outside view of the 
 establishment. 
 
 Abbotsford is now the property of Mrs. Hope, Sir 
 Walter's grandchild, as I was informed, who with 
 her husband and family reside here the most of the 
 year. 
 
 I rode back to Melrose, but did not go four milea 
 beyond it to Dryburgh Abbey where Scott is buried. 
 My vehicle was an open one, and the day was exceed- 
 ingly raw and chilly. I should feel ashamed to look 
 my brother spirits in the face, on arriving at the 
 " spheres," after having been frozen to death in April. 
 
 I had taken some provender at the tavern at Mel- 
 rose, and sat by the fire listening to the conversation of 
 the Scotchmen who came from an exhibition of hand- 
 some young horses, or as one of them called it, a " stal- 
 lion comparison," at which prizes were awarded for the 
 horses best fitted to make hunters of. " Ken" for 
 "know," and " ay" for "yes," was used by some of 
 the talkers, though in general their English was better 
 than that of Englishmen, and nearly as pure as ours. 
 Much was said about the various fairs which had been 
 and were to be held about the country; and the price 
 of wool and wheat seemed to interest all. Between 
 whiles, these Scotchmen would ring the bell and call 
 for " toddy ;" the waiter ahvaj^s bringing whiskey, hot 
 water and sugar. How a w^hiskey barrel sinks before 
 these Presbyterian people ! 
 
 About an hour before the train was expected along 
 
 18 
 
206 M E L R O S fi . 
 
 on its return to Edinburgh, I went to the farther ex- 
 tremity of the village to see the Abbey. 
 
 " If you would see Melrose aright, 
 
 " You nmsi view it by the moon's pale light." 
 
 Yet as I could not wait for the romantic liour, I did 
 the best I could. I found the old Scotchman who has 
 the key which admits you through the gate of the high 
 fence surrounding the Abbey. This man's dialect was 
 very rich ; 156S was " fafteen hunder saxty aught/' and 
 so on. He pointed out all the remarkable features of 
 the place, talking all the while, and continually stoop- 
 ing to pick from the grass the twigs which the jackdaws 
 had thrown down. A crowd of these birds were circ- 
 ling about the ruined pinnacles of the building and mak- 
 ing a great commotion. The man shewed me the marks 
 of Cromwell's cannon balls on the building. — Warwick, 
 Kenihvorth, Melrose — Cromwell has banged them all. 
 I saw within the walls of the Abbe}^, the graves of King 
 Alexander the Second, and Michael Scott the wizard; 
 and a small flat stone under which is said to lie the 
 heart of Robert the Bruce. My guide told me that the 
 Abbey was built in the time of David I, and that it 
 was now about seven hundred years old. 
 
 Melrose is an exceedingly fine old ruin. The archi- 
 tectui-e of the high peaked windows and the lofty aisle, 
 and the workmanship displayed thereon, are very rich 
 and elaborate. The arches are grand and well propor- 
 tioned. Ivy hangs over a part of the ruin and by no 
 means diminishes the effect. 
 
 When the fat bucks and pretty lasses grew scarce 
 in this part of the country, then Melrose Abbey became 
 n ruin. 
 
 After much conversation, the old man said to me, 
 
 " Ye'U be an American ?" 
 
 " Yes ; how did you know ?" 
 
 " I always ken an American by his tongue. As 
 mony Americans comes down here in summer, as ony 
 ither people." 
 
 I bade the old man good-by and left this part of the 
 village, where the houses are so low that you can 'ay 
 
EDINBURGH. 207 
 
 your chin upon the eaves and whistle " Auld Lang 
 Syne." 
 
 April ith. — In summer, when the weather is fine, 
 tourists go by private vehicle to Roslin Castle, an hour 
 and a half's drive from Edinburgh, where are many 
 mteresting marks of history. Stirling and its castle 
 are about an hour's journey by railway from this city; 
 and near them lies the famous Battle Field of Ban- 
 nockburn. The weather now is so raw and chilly, that 
 I shall attempt no further excursions in Scotland. 
 
 Having procured an order to see the "regalia of 
 Scothind," of which I have heard so much, I went to- 
 day to the castle. After passing the sentinels and wind- 
 ing my way among high walls defended b}'' great guns, 
 I was shewn into a darkened room in which a single 
 small pendant lamp was burning. Under this dim 
 light, in a glass case, was a jewel or two, three or four 
 long swords, and a crown standing on a velvet cushion. 
 This comprised the far-famed regalia of Scotland. — 
 Gammon ! ! 
 
 The garrison of the castle is composed of only twelve 
 soldiers — red coats. There are some heavy pieces of 
 cannon ; and one that seems to have been forged in 
 " Mons," wherever that may be, in 148G ; taken by the 
 English from the Scotch at the siege of some castle, 
 and placed in the Tower of London; but afterwards 
 restored to Scotland by George IV. I judged this gun 
 to be at its muzzle as large as a flour barrel and -with a 
 proportionate length. 
 
 Leaving the castle, I went down the High Street of 
 old Edinburgh, through Canongate Street to Ilolyrood 
 Palace. The houses I passed, were mostly old dark 
 stone or brick edifices, some of them six or seven stories 
 high ; and not a few standing as the ancient citizens of 
 Albany, N. Y./ were said to stand — " with their gable 
 ends to the street." The edifices in this part of Edin- 
 burgh, once occupied by famous characters in the olden 
 time, would disgust the snobbishness of the present age; 
 yet I have no doubt they were once very comfortable 
 dwellings. 
 
208 EDINBrHGH. 
 
 A party of visitors was just entering the palacOj so I 
 joined them and we were shewn sorae of the rooms by 
 pei-sons prohibited from taking fees on " any pretence 
 whatever,"' but who have books to sell you. SVe saw 
 the i-oom where the conspirators met, and the narrow 
 stairway up which they went to Queen Mary's apart- 
 ments where they found and assassinated Eizzio ; and 
 the pretended marks of his blood are t till pointed out 
 upon the tioor over which his murderers dragged him. 
 
 The rooms were excessively shabby ; and one could 
 hardly imagine that they were ever lit for royalty. The 
 furniture — and there is very little of it left — was in a 
 ruined and lousy condition. Charles the First's bed, 
 Queen Mary's bed, chairs. Ctc, were covered with faded 
 gilding, embividery and tinsel. On the walls were por- 
 traits of Jane Shore and Nell Gwynne — neither of them 
 ugly. Lord Darnley's armor and big leather boots, we 
 saw. The room in which the Queen was taking supper, 
 and where Kizzio is said to have received his death 
 wound, was small, ill-shaped and inconveixient. 
 
 Attacheii to the palace is an old chapel in ruins, 
 somewhat after the style of Melrose Abbey, some of its 
 architectural features being mtich admired. Here the 
 spot where Lord Darnley and Queen Mary were mar- 
 ried, was shewn us ; and the door-sill under which the 
 "noble lord'' caused Eizzio to be buried, so that the 
 Queen would be compelled to walk over him when she 
 went to "Kirk." A nimiber of old inhabitants are 
 buried in the chapel, and covered by slabs laid tlatupon 
 the ground. On some of the slabs, death's heads and 
 cross bones were carved; and upon the grave of a 
 Knight Templar, two swords were chiselled. The chap- 
 el is a romantio ruin on a small scale ; and will, I pre- 
 sume never be restored. 
 
 April 5tJi. — I tind that I can go up stairs to my room 
 in this Scotch hotel, Avithotit being savagely stared at 
 as one is in England by the brazen faced chambermaids, 
 who are represented to tis by some travelers, as neat 
 and natty, with their little caps upon their heads. The 
 "cherry cheeked Putties'' of barmaids too^ we have i^ 
 
NEWCASTLE. 209 
 
 wrong notion of; for they appear to be no better than 
 they should be ; and as for rosy cheeks, they haven't got 
 'em. Among the lower orders of English women, rosy 
 cheeks are scarce as they are with us. Great "poetic 
 licence" has been taken by writers on cheeks. 
 
 England is fading and losing her cherry cheeks. In 
 one hundred years she may be under the protection of 
 the United States, as South Carohna now is. Her 
 rotten church and state union will soon fall asunder by 
 its own weight. The people will not starve forever that 
 they may pay oppressive taxes for the ^support of a 
 kingfy government and a scandalous aristocracy. 
 "There is a good time coming." AVe can easily see 
 what England is, but she does not know us. She will 
 not hear the truth, for her conceit and jealousy will not 
 permit it. She gets her notion of America from Marry- 
 att the tippler, Trollope the bawd, Fanny Kemble the 
 fema'e rowdy, and Dickens, toadeater to the aristccracy. 
 Must we be compelled to "take the conceit out of her" 
 for the third time ? 
 
 Farewell, Scotland ! I am sorry that England got 
 the better of you. 
 
 Ten o'clock A. M. — I took the express train for a sis 
 hours ride to York. Passed through Berwick, New- 
 castle and other towns. There is no use of " carrying 
 coals to Newcastle." You are conscious of coal always 
 burning and coal to be burned. The atmosphere is 
 full of smoke rising from thousands of chimneys ; and 
 a veil like that over London hangs over this town. The 
 people breathe coal, and perhaps breakfast and dine on 
 it. Were the Queen to make them a visit, they would 
 treat her to a coal collation. 
 
 At Newcastle the railway runs over a viaduct, so 
 high that the roofs of the houses are at some distance 
 beneath. These airy roads are all very well when you 
 have a confidence in their solidity. The English rail- 
 ways are better built than ours ; and there alwaj-s being 
 two tracks, accidents are less frequent. Besides, there 
 are not heaps of laws left unenforced, as with us. • 
 
 In travelling to day through the agricultural districts 
 
 18* 
 
210 YORK, 
 
 I was struck by the peculiar appeapnce of the plougb. 
 ed fields, as I had been before. The furrows are not 
 deep and are as straight as if marked out with a car- 
 penter's, chalk line. In some fields, there are old fur- 
 rows about eight feet apart ; for the purpose of drain- 
 age,, perhaps. I have observed the same in France. 
 
 At four o'clock in the- aftei'noon,, I reached the ancieafr 
 city of York,, where are forty thousand inhabitants and 
 twenty-four churches. 8onQ<e of the latter are quite 
 old and weather stained; and one of them' has a bpam 
 projecting over the sidewalk, fifteen feet from the ground, 
 at the end of which is a large two-faced clock. There 
 are some antiq[ue houses with their second stories pro- 
 jecting over the first, and the third over the second,, 
 rendering them in, appearance rather top-heavy. Part 
 of the old v/all of the city and several af its gateways- 
 remain. Clifibrd's Tower, the fragment of an old castle, 
 stands within the yard of the- prison. I went into the 
 enclosure and got an outside view merely, it being after 
 show hours. The keeper told me that near one thous- 
 ^and six hundred Jews had perished at one time in the 
 old castle by a fire, supposed to have been lighted by 
 themselves. He showed me a yard, where, what he 
 called the "first class debtors," are allowed to walk. 
 These are they, I suppose, who are in for respectable 
 amounts — big railroad and bank swindles. He turned 
 to C'iiflbrd's Tower, and said that while repairing it 
 lately, the workmen found some cannoa balls embedded 
 in the walls. I remarked that I supposed Oliver Crom.- 
 well had banged this, as he had nearly all the old castles 
 in the country. He said no, it M^as before Cromwell's 
 time ; he thought it was done by the Romans ! I 
 managed to keep my countenance until I got away from, 
 him, when I am free to confess that I cackled. 
 
 I roturned to my hotel — the "Black Swan'^ — an old 
 tavern that was in full bloom forty years ago. Here I 
 was making enquiries of the waiter about the age of 
 york Minster, the church I had come to see,.especially. 
 He replied that portions of it had been burned once or 
 twice, but the main building was very old, having been. 
 
YORK. 21i 
 
 built about one thousand two hundred years before 
 Christ ! This he told me in the purest good faith and 
 most simple English ignorance ; yet I was forced to 
 smile, but managed my grin so that he did not suspect 
 the cause of it. 
 
 York Minster is prized as the fii'st cathedral church 
 in England. It suits my eye perhaps, taking an ex- 
 terior view, as well as any edifice I ever saw. It is of 
 rich architecture, and of all kinds of shape — round, 
 square, octagonal — with towers, battlements and pin- 
 nacles; projecting chapels; many lofty pointed stained 
 glass windows, one of which I guess to be seventy feet 
 high. If there is breadth to the regular irregular mass, 
 then it is great ; if there is length, then it is about two 
 or three times as long "as the biggest church in the city 
 of New- York. The color of the edifice is gray and 
 time-stained. 
 
 Service was being performed in the main chapel, and 
 the keepers could not at this time show visitors through 
 the interior; so I walked about by myself; looked up 
 and through the vast white painted aisles ; up to the 
 roof of the inner square central tower; at the ceilings, 
 ornamented with oak ; at the massive carved furniture 
 and embellishments — for there is no marble or tinsel 
 ornament — all is plain ; and at the many stained win- 
 dows. I went into the chapel, where were two priests 
 in white robes, one of whom was officiating before a 
 congregation composed of eleven women. Service is 
 held here every afternoon from four to five o'clock. 
 "When it was concluded, it was past the hours of ex- 
 hibition, so that I must wait till to-morrow morning for 
 further particulars regarding this great church. 
 
 April Qth. — York Minster is considered to be the 
 finest specimen of Gothic architectui'e in Europe. Part 
 of it is six hundred and twenty years old ; but there 
 are Noi-man arches in the crypt two hundred years 
 older than that. It is five hundred and twenty-four 
 feet in length, and of various widths. The massive 
 central tower is two hundred and thirteen feet high. 
 The church has over one hundred stained glass windows 
 
212 NOTTINGHAM. 
 
 — one of whicli is seventy-five feet high and thii*ty-two 
 feet wide. I was shewn through the church to the 
 monuments, one of which is to the only Enghsh arch- 
 bishop who had his head cut off. In the principal 
 chapel, the stand on which the priest lays his book 
 during service, is entirely composed of brass, the top 
 being a gilded eagle with outspread wings. The organ 
 is very large and cost near fifty thousand dollars. Por- 
 tions of the church have been destroyed at different 
 times by fire, and rebuilt again. The last fire was 
 caused by a man, supposed to be somewhat insane, who 
 secreted himself in the church during service and after- 
 ward collected all the bibles and prayer books and set 
 fire to the organ, the " buzzing" of which he gave as a 
 cause for his act. So much for one of the finest 
 churches in Europe. 
 
 The Yorkshire people are considered very sharp — 
 a sort of English down Easters ; yet they do not ap- 
 pear very intelligent with all their cunning. It took me 
 Bome time to ascertain the population, and the names 
 of the two streams — the Foss and the Ouse — which 
 run through the place. The schoolmaster evidently left 
 them before giving lessons on history and statistics. 
 
 In my journey to-day from York I passed through a 
 tubular bridge for the first time. 
 
 An Englishman pointed out to mo the seat of one 
 Musters, who married Byron's Mary, and treated her 
 like an Enc^lish brute as he was. 
 
 Three tj'' clock, P.M. — ^Nottingham, where laces and 
 other things are made. The appearance of the town 
 is not very interesting to a stranger. I went to the 
 " Maypole" tavern, but it was full. Next to the "White 
 Lion," w^here his " most gracious majesty" was pleased 
 to take me in. This hotel was full of " commercial tra- 
 vellers" — rowdies., that I have described in another 
 place. 
 
 Newstead Abbey, formerly the residence of Lord 
 Byron, is eleven miles from this place. Hearing that 
 it was very much modernized and changed by its pres- 
 ent proprietor, I abandoned my intention of visiting it. 
 
LONDON. 213 
 
 Byron is buried at a village seven miles from Notting- 
 ham. He and Tom Moore and Bulwer, have the honor 
 of being the great Youth corrupters of the present 
 age. The Prench novelists have helped them some- 
 vs^hat. 
 
 At twelve o'clock on the following day, I took the 
 " mixed express" for London, which Babel I reached 
 at four in the afternoon. 
 
 I have been much pleased with my excursion through 
 the country, and only regret that it could not have been 
 made at a later day, when the spring was more de- 
 veloped. 
 
 London, April 8. — The town is still smoky and hazy- 
 Had this people our fine chraate,what would they say? 
 Only just what now they say, that the Enghsh climate 
 — and the English everything — is the best in the world. 
 Yes, they have the best of many things ; first class 
 gouts,exquisite rheumatisms and unparalelled consump- 
 tions. 
 
 I have at last eaten of the far-famed English luxury, 
 the " white bait" fish, which is in appearance, between 
 a worm and a shrimp. Nearly a peck of these tiny fish 
 was brought to me on a great dish, and the fish was 
 supposed to be only one of several courses. I was 
 once more taken for a native. I tasted the white bait, 
 but put them aside at once as a failure. The English 
 people eat them, cannibal like, with their " in'ards," 
 tail and all. 
 
 The English might say, with some of their favorite 
 phrases, " Dear me !" how very " extraordinary,'''' not 
 to like so " nice" a fish ! 
 
 " Why let 'em fay it ! 
 They can't but say"— I had the fish ! 
 
 I went to-day into the"Temple,"a collection of courts^ 
 lanes or alleys — of which London is full — inhabited by 
 the lawyers. There is a venerable church within the 
 precincts, not often frequented by the lawyers, else the 
 profession would be apt to lose some of its members. 
 
 Newgate Prison, or " Old Bailey" is still in existence 
 in London. This prison is celebrated by many of the 
 
214 LONDON. 
 
 literary men of England, some of whom have been con- 
 fined within its walls. It is a low building, with few 
 windows, and bears the marks of age. 
 
 April 9. — Forty minutes by railway to Hampton 
 Court Palace, once the sumptuous residence of Cardi- 
 nal Wolsey. It is built of briclc, with several court- 
 yards, and covers considerable space. " Service" was 
 in full blast in the chapel, it being Sunday, so visitors 
 could not be admitted to see the curiosities until after 
 two hours. This visitor beino- unwillino- to submit to 
 
 ■T 
 
 such delay, returned by first train to Lonaon. 
 
 Strolled into St. James's Park, which is larger than 
 I thought it last fall, as I then saw only the jiortion in 
 front of Buckingham Palace. The weather is warm ; 
 the flowers, grass and trees are beginning to show 
 themselves ; people are rambling and children playing 
 over the green grass, which is here considered as a 
 carpet to walk on, not a thing to look at ; and the place 
 appears very pleasant, when you consider that it is in 
 London. 
 
 April 10. — The Crystal Palace has been removed 
 from Hyde Park to Sydenham, a few miles from Lon- 
 don. After leaving the city and getting fairly outside 
 of the fog, I found this to be a pleasant day. The 
 Palace is situated on elevated ground, and commands 
 a fine pi'ospect — English scenery — hill and green dale; 
 with here, perhaps, the grey spire of a church rising 
 above the trees, and there, perhaps, a windmill on a 
 hill. 
 
 The Cr3'Stal Palace is not yet completed, as large 
 additions are being made to it. The whole, when fin- 
 ished, will cover, it is said, twenty-five acres. Say 
 fifteen acres,' and you will come much nearer the mark, 
 for ill these matters gi-eat lies are told. The present 
 building is large enough, but not as handsome in shape 
 as our Crystal Palace in New York. It is destined for 
 a great show-room, or Museum, where a little of every- 
 thing is to be exhibited. The expense of the aifair will 
 be enormous ; and the result, most likely, a failure. 
 "When in Naples, I saw men taking plaster casts of 
 
LONDON. 215 
 
 statues for exhibition in this Crystal Palace. The pro- 
 jectors intend to render it unnecessary for sightseers 
 to visit any other country but England. 
 
 I have been thinking of a sail on the Thames, through 
 the whole extent of London ; but have been forced to 
 abandon the excursion as I have not yet learned to pe- 
 netrate the fog with my eyes so as to see the shores 
 from the boat. There are doubtless certain days in the 
 year when the fog draws off, permitting such a trip to 
 be of much interest to one who wishes to form a whole 
 idea of this vast city 
 
 Dined to-day at " His Lordship's Larder ;" a demo- 
 cratic eating house between the Bank and St. Paul's. 
 The charges were quite reasonable and the fare com- 
 mendable. The other day I dined at a rather celebrated 
 chop-house, the " Blue Post," Cork-street, near Bur« 
 linglon Arcade. They here give you a mutton chop 
 beautifully done up. I notice in passing the streets, 
 some eating-houses, or taverns, with queer names — 
 euch as the " Hen and Chickens," " Cock and Bottle," 
 &c. In the Strand are two taverns, both claiming to 
 be on the site of " Nell Gwynne's Dairy." 
 
 The " Easter Holidays" being near, the theatres all 
 stop giving plays, but get up " promenade concerts" 
 at cheap admission. At these concerts you can sit 
 Btill, or walk up and down, look at the ladies and hear 
 noisy music. Parliament also adjourns for the Easter 
 Hohdays, and " the boys go out to play." 
 
 April ilth. 
 
 " Thj' Palace Windsor, and thy green retreats, 
 " At once the Monarch's and the Muses seats " — 
 
 ^his castle is about an hour's ride by " rail" from the 
 city. Through Londonthe road ran upon an elevation, so 
 that the passengers could look into the attic windows 
 and sec what the chambermaids were about. The 
 day in the country was warm, balmy and somewhat 
 blue. Persuaded by the atmospihe^re in .London, I had 
 taken an umbrella, but it was of no use. The fruit 
 trees were all in blossom ; and the green grass hum- 
 med with happiness. Passed through Hounslow, whose 
 
216 WINDSOR. 
 
 heath was once infested by robbers. The steam-engine 
 has 
 
 '•'Whistled thorn down the wind 
 
 To prey at fortune." 
 
 And the descendants of the foot -pads now flourish 
 in London as bankers, lawyers, hotel keepers, &c. 
 
 Windsor Castle, with ivy elirabing npon it, rose 
 above the trees to my left. It is built of a clean, well pre- 
 served bluish-grey stone, and is of all kinds of shapes, 
 with a variety of towers, court yards and outworks, 
 covering a large extent of soil. It was erected by 
 diiierent sovereigns, piece by piece, until it is now 
 considered large enough for the tattest monarch. Only 
 a few of the rooms are exhibited; and an order is re- 
 quired to see even these. Quite a party had collected; 
 and we were marched through some of the ante rooms, 
 the guard-room, the banquet hall, the presence cham- 
 ber, &c. There was gilding, high ceilings, with oak- 
 work, paintings, chandeliers, tine furniture, &c.,.but on 
 the whole the exhibition was below those of palaces in 
 France, where you are treated to such a quantity of 
 paintings and statuary. The appartments of Queen 
 V ictoria, now in use, are closed against visitors. AVe 
 Baw ancient arms and armor, and tlags and banners ; 
 and in the guard room stood ten feet of the stump 
 of the mast of the " Victory,"' as large as a hogshead, 
 and at its foot the cannon ball which had made a hole 
 directly through it. 
 
 Three of us ascended to the top of the large round 
 tower in the centre of the castle, where we found a sub- 
 altern officer who pointed out to us some of the fea- 
 tures of the great AYindsor Park and extended land- 
 scape on the other side of the castle. Yonder in the 
 distance, wa9 the house once occupied by AYilliam 
 Penn ; there Harrow on the Hill, where Byron and 
 other celebrated men received their first rudiments ; 
 and near by, jast across the Thames — ^liere a tritling 
 stream, as at Hampton Court — was Eton and its 
 college. 
 
 After descending from the tower I crossed a court- 
 
WINDSOR. 217 
 
 yard, and had hardly passod the sentinel at the gate, 
 before one of the seedy guides who infest all plaees of 
 interest in Europe, approached and said, 
 
 " You can now get an order, Sir, to see the Queen's 
 ponies." 
 
 " I don't want to see the Queen's ponies." 
 
 " Or you can go into the chapel." 
 
 " I don't want to go into tlie chapel." 
 
 The man walked oif. I inquired the way to ''Vir- 
 ginia Water," which is, I believe a small pond in Wind- 
 sor Park, and was told that it was six miles away. 
 The subaltern told me that the park contained four 
 thousand acres. Either way it is large enough to fur- 
 nish food, if well tilled, for thousands of the starving 
 poor of overpeopled England — where the eldest son 
 of a rich aristocrat must heir the title and the wealth, 
 be he knave, tyrant or fool, and the rest of the family 
 be what they can — beggars, perhaps, 
 
 I did not go to the pond, but thought I could 
 see it in my mind's eye; a little spot of water, in its 
 centre an artificial island, whittled into an oval form, 
 or made exactly square, and a rosebush at each cor- 
 ner. It is so easy, in gardening, to banish Nature. 
 
 Took a grand exterior view of the castle as I 
 sauntered through the hard-soap village of Windsor. 
 The royal castle is certainly fine and imposing; and 
 with its great park, inhabited by deer and other 
 animals, it is well worthy to be the [summer resid- 
 ence of any sovereign. 
 
 • Windsor town smells powerfully of hops. This 
 under the very nose of royalty augurs that even the 
 Queen herself would not faint at the sight of a pint of 
 '"alfand 'alf." 
 
 I crossed the bridge over the Thames to see Eton col- 
 lege, but it offered nothing remarkable to my inspec- 
 tion. The village of Eton was of no account. So in 
 due time I returned to London. 
 
 A member of parliament can give only one order a 
 day to persons who wish to hear the debates, and be- 
 ing now near a recess, these orders are in great de- 
 
 19 
 
218 LONDON. 
 
 inaad. I was fortunate in getting one from a person at 
 my hotel, who was acquainted with one of the Irish 
 members boarding there ; so I went late this after- 
 noon, but found the seats of the small gallery of the 
 House of Commons all occupied — and no one is allow- 
 ed to stand. After waiting awhile, one of the occu- 
 pants came out and I was passed in. The hall of the 
 House is finished oif with oak; and has a high ceiling, 
 also ornamented with oak. Part of this ceiling is of 
 glass, above which the gas lights are placed that light 
 the hall below at night. In the centre of the hall stands 
 a large table covered with papers ; on each side of 
 this sit the two parties — Administration and oppo- 
 sition — or " Independent members," as I heard these 
 last style themselves in debate. The chairman sits 
 upon an elevated platform with a canopy over his head. 
 He is dressed in robes and a big wig ; and with his red 
 face, looked like a tipsy washerwoman who had stolen a 
 silk dress and was trying to hide herself under a bundle 
 of flax. 
 
 A "noble lord," connected with the ministry, made 
 a speech — the question being a proposition to extend 
 the right of suffrage — then some one replied ; then Ben 
 D'Israeli, author of " Vivian Grey," " Contarini Flem- 
 ing," ^fcc, got up and talked, folding his arms, then 
 unfolding them, thrusting his thumbs into the arm-holes 
 of his vest, then taking them out again, and so on. Ho 
 seemed to know what to do with his tongue though, for 
 his friends called out " Hear ! Hear ! " very frequently, 
 as some of his ideas struck them and their opponents. 
 As near as I could see, Ben is not now the dandy he 
 once was, but quite a modestly dressed, respectable 
 looking gentleman, with black hair and a high forehead. 
 Ben is married to a rich widow ; and having entered 
 into the matter of fact existence, writes no more novels. 
 
 Several members made speeches, and the words 
 "noble lord," "right honorable friend," &c., were ban- 
 died about in parhamentary and complimentary style. 
 One young member quite amused me, he was so effem- 
 inate and Miss Nancv-ish. 
 
t O N D N . 219 
 
 The exclamations " oh ! oh ! " not uproariously but 
 distinctly uttered, were heard in disapproval of an 
 assertion; or "Hear! Hear!" when their friend gave 
 the opposition a hard pill to swallow. A " Hear ! " 
 behind time, sounding as if rising from a pool of turtle 
 soup and mutton, mixed with port and sherry, would 
 sometimes break forth all alone from some sleepy 
 member. 
 
 I saw no members take off their coats to fight; neither 
 did they sieze each other by the throat or give the lie; 
 nor were any of them drunk. Our House of Kepre- 
 sentatives at Washijigton was once a respectable body 
 of men, before Democracy was ''run into the ground," 
 and tipsy blackguards sent to represent their associates, 
 dwelhng mostly in large cities. 
 
 The Commons is the working branch of Parliament; 
 the " noble lords " in the other House, bein^ chiefly 
 engaged in the afternoon in playing with their watch 
 seals and gently rubbing their abdomens. 
 
 April 12. — Went again to-day to the British Museum. 
 It would require a week to see it thoroughly. The 
 collection of birds and shells, is almost interminable. 
 The taste and ingenuity of Nature, displaj'ed here in so 
 many creations, is truly amazing. There are a vast 
 number of animals, shells, specimens of minerals, petri- 
 factions, «&c. The skeletons of the great Megatherium 
 and Mastodon are set up ; and there are some fine 
 spec'mtjns of petrified animals, trees, shrubs, &c. ; I'elica 
 of an antediluvian world. 
 
 The noted Portland Vase is not now exhibited. An 
 insane or drunken Englishman, some years ago, in a 
 sudden freak, struck it with his cane and broke it. _An 
 order is now required for admission to it; but I did not 
 take the trouble to get one. 
 
 National Gallery. — Here I expected to find a largo 
 collection of fine paintings, remembering that I was in 
 the great and rich city of a people who pretend to excel 
 all countries in all things. There were only^?;e rooms, 
 none of them large, and some of them quite small; 
 the aggregate number of paintings therein being few 
 
220 LONDON. 
 
 indeed. Though it must be confessed there were some 
 good ones, by Guido, Titian, Correggio and other big 
 pumpkins. I was told that the paintings by English 
 artists had been removed to another gallery, which I 
 mean to visit hereafter. 
 
 April loth. — I observe that many of the Londoners 
 are at this time painting their houses and shops. • It 
 seems a waste of money, but I suppose it is '' the fash- 
 ion." In two months the coal smoke will destroy all 
 their line outsides and bring them down to the general 
 dingy color. 
 
 I also observe that on many of the doors of the 
 English houses, the old fashioned knocker is retained; 
 in some cases, even alter a street door bell has been 
 inserted. There are frequently little tin signs on the 
 doors of the Doctors, Dentists, &c., requiring visitors 
 both to "Knock and EingJ' Somebody then will bo 
 sure to hear you; the people in the street cerrtainly. 
 
 This morning I started for Marlborough House to 
 see a gallery of painting-s by English artists. On my 
 way I met several of the red-coated gentry whom I have 
 before spoken of; and who appear to me to be the most 
 conceited puppies I have ever seen on this side of the 
 Atlantic — our lace and bobbin, holiday soldiers" in 
 New York, falling far short of them in this quality. I 
 am told that these peacocks are the ''gawds " (or 
 guards), whose pepeculiar duty it is, to "^jjcrtect the 
 Queen's pusson. " Red jackets and black pants ; with 
 httle switches in their hands ; children's caps, set away 
 on one side of their heads, and most likely pinned fast,, 
 with narrow patent leather straps, hanging down across 
 the chin, just under the lower lip ; and their bodies so 
 buttoned and screwed up by coat, vest and stock, that 
 they appear in the host stages of sti'angulation. These 
 fellows can't run away in such a dress ; they m,ust stand 
 and face the enemy. 
 
 At Marlborough House I found c trilling collection 
 of paintings, much smaller than even " Young- Amer- 
 ica" presumes to exhibit. I found nothing of surpass- 
 ing merit, so far as my poor judgement goes. " TJncIa 
 
LONDON. 221 
 
 Toby and the Widow Wadman," by Leslie, caught my 
 eye; though it is not up to Sterne. One would not 
 suppose, to hear the English talk, that they were so 
 very far in the rear of the French in painting and 
 sculpture ; but you liavo only to go to their galleries 
 and sec for yourself 
 
 In a building near Marlborough House, is the Duko 
 of Wellington's funeral car. It is larger than a Phila- 
 delphia fire-engine, but not so large as the "triumphal 
 ear " of liayraond & Go's Circus, nor with any more 
 gildin.^- on it. 
 
 Monmouth Street, inhabited by big-nosed, roguish 
 Jew dealers in "old clo," attracts some visitors, who 
 often there have their pjocket handkerchiefs, if not their 
 money, stolen. Rag Fair, a lower institution of the 
 same genus, is sometimes visited by sight-see-ers. It 
 is renriarkable to see the quantity of old and ragged 
 clothing that is here bought and sold by the poor of 
 this " wealthy metropolis." Some for brestd to keep 
 starvation away for a moment, are forced to sell part 
 of their wretched apparel. Others, with money which 
 they have begged or stolen, purchase rags to hide their 
 squalid nakedness. Unequal laws, a rotten aristocracy 
 and a still more decayed churcjri, must prevail in aland 
 where these things be. The "glorious institutions of 
 eld England" must be supported; the miserable poor 
 of old England must starve, beg, or steal and go to jail. 
 I can neither see now nor in the future, such a state of 
 things in my native land ; where every inch of soil haa 
 not to be tilled, and sharply, to ward off starvation ; 
 but where Nature's unbroken earth extends far away 
 in millions of acres, calling us to look into its breast and 
 see the treasures it has in store for us. Thrice Happy 
 America ! 
 
 TIjc dinner-hour came on me today as I was walking 
 in Fleet street, so I turned into Bolt court and walked 
 into iJr. Johnson's Tavern. My dinner was soon order- 
 ed and I sat listening to some young Miss (probably) 
 who was playing the piano up stairs. Wsjs it fancy, or 
 did I really Fiear the Doctor's voice coming from thdi 
 
 19* 
 
?23 LONDON. 
 
 "spirit world," where he is engaged on a new edition of 
 his Dictionary ? 
 
 Johnson. — Young lady, to spend your time in that 
 manner, proves you an ass. 
 
 Young Lady. — (Continuing her playing.) Doctor^ 
 you're another. 
 
 The Doctor proceeds with his dictionary. 
 Hard. — That which is not soft. 
 Soft. — That which is not hard. 
 
 Oats.. — Food for horses. In Sco-tland food for 
 men. 
 
 My dinner having been disposed of, I began to reflect 
 that to-morrow I am to leave this great and gloomy 
 city, which is as sad and depressing as a supper of 
 corned beef, lobster and apple dumplings. I was never 
 in so melancholy a city as London. Every thing seemed 
 stiif, cold and scowling to the stranger. And so must it 
 seem to the disregarded poor. One thousand^ eight 
 hAindred and fifty four years have passed since thee- 
 FAission and teachings of such a being as Jesus Christ 
 in the world, yet England remains inore cruel and un- 
 just to her lower orders t^n any other civilized govern- 
 in en t on the face of the gJobe. 
 
 April \Uh — 0)t the road to lAverpool. — Someone 
 has said that man, often unjust to man, is always so to 
 woman. Now I have a little further evidence in favor 
 of the weaker sex. For at a place where the passen- 
 gers were allowed "five minutes for refreshment/' (when 
 time goes by express) a gentleman standing at a counter 
 behind which were several robust well dressed English 
 females, ungallantly remarked as he sat down his cup^ 
 " There is no taste of coffee to this." Upon which the; 
 principal female, somewhat nettled, appealed to another 
 person to whom she had just handed a cup, and with 
 something of a female sneer, ^'■This gentleman says^ 
 there is no taste of coSee to it !'^ The second English- 
 man tasted his beverage and at once rephed, "No more 
 there is 'nt; it's more like dirty ditch water !" Further 
 comment was unnecessary. 
 ^^ On arriving at Liverpool, the Waterloo and AdelphI 
 
LIVEEPOOL. 223 
 
 Hotels' were said to be full ; the " Pacific" having just 
 arrived, and the "Arabia" being to sail to-morrow. So 
 I was forced to go for one day to the "Victoria," where 
 the keeper and nearly all the people are French. The 
 house is neither fish nor flesh ; frog nor beef. I do not 
 like it. 
 
 Liv er pool y April 15. — Waterloo Hotel. — \ had been 
 told that the " old walled town of Chester^" three 
 quarters of an hour's ride by railway from this place, 
 was worth seeing. So I crossed the river Mersey to 
 Birkenhead — the Brooklyn of Liverpool — and took the 
 train' for Chester. On my way, I noticed what I have 
 often before observed, that the English children (some 
 of whom were in the car with me) are much better 
 trained than ours ; conducting themselves like little 
 gentlemen and ladies, and not dragging their weak and 
 afiectionate parents about as if they were the children. 
 In the training of youth we are behind the rest of the 
 ^orld. Our easy government is, doubtless, partly the 
 cause why our little boys and girls are considered of so 
 much importance. Too little spanking, makes a mai) 
 of " Young America," before he has well done " mew- 
 ling." 
 
 Well, I reached Chester and could see nothing. Meet- 
 ing a cabman in the street, I asked for information. 
 
 " Is there anything to see here ?" 
 
 " Yes, many owld curiosities!" 
 
 " AVhere is the castle V 
 
 " Eight here." 
 
 I went'^right here," but could find no castle. 
 
 After a few other inquiries, with a like fruitless result, 
 I bethought me that this was " Passion Week," and 
 that I ought to keep cool. So I asked a cabman if he 
 could get me to the railroad in time for the next train. 
 He did ; and I looked my last on the " old walled town 
 of Chester " 
 
 April 16th. — A foggy London day. The coal smoke 
 from the steamers on the river, the house-chimneys and 
 the factories, hangs over the town ; to which, add the 
 
224 LIVERPOOL. 
 
 fogs prevailing at this season, and the result is a very- 
 dim and gloomy atmosphere. 
 
 "Walked out of town away from the fog. The young 
 vegetation is out and looks well in spite of the long 
 drouth. In some of the wheat fields, posts with boards 
 nailed upon them, caution the public not to " trespass 
 on these grounds." The English landscapes, being 
 destitute of woods, have a wider sweep than ours. But 
 they always leave a number of well shaped trees grow- 
 ing here and there, so that the country shall not pre- 
 sent too naked an appearance. 
 
 Just out of the city, are a number of villas , as w^e 
 m.^j call them, surrounded by high walls, and belong- 
 ing perhaps to rich merchants. I observed that one or 
 two amiable individuals have caused broken glass bottles 
 to be embedded in mortar upon the top of their walls, 
 so as to present a cruel barrier against trespassers. 
 This invention doubtless originated during a fit of the 
 English gout. 
 
 - "^pril \7th. — I heard a young American tell his friend 
 last night, that he had gorve out into the couTitry for a 
 ride ; had trav.^led fur uve ■ -.iies between high walls, 
 but could see nothing ; and had wished onc@ more to 
 be by the side of an American rail fence. 
 
 To-day I went beyond the walled district to Hale^ 
 twelve miles from Liverpool ; so as to get one more 
 view of the rural districts of England. The hedges 
 and fields along the road were green, and the orchards 
 in blossom. Fine sweeps of changing landscape were 
 thrown open before me, as the direction of the road 
 varied. The driver of my vehicle pulled up at the 
 " Child of Hale" Tavern ; upon the sign of which was 
 represented an enormous boy in knee-breeches. 
 
 I walked away towards the River Mersey, surveying 
 the houses of the little village as I passed. There were 
 some low cottages of whitewashed bri jk, thatched, and 
 with two little square windows in front ; ivy or other 
 green plants being trained up around the doors. Some of 
 them had little door-yards, surrounded b}^ green hedges, 
 and filled with trees, shrubs and flowers. Our Amer-. 
 
HALE. 225 
 
 ican villagers would not have thought these dwel- 
 lings showy enough ; yet they might have envied their 
 inhabitants the mass of green luxuriance by which 
 they were surrounded. Some of the village houses were 
 of a better order ; two or three stories in height, and 
 with part of their fronts covered by a matting of 
 ivy which made natural " green blinds" for the win- 
 dows. 
 
 I passed the village church and heard the voice of 
 the rooks. From the trees and fields came a multitude 
 of whistlings, chirpings and warblings of birds I did 
 not know. All else was still ; for the little village is 
 very quiet, and you hardly !^see a soul stirring, I walked 
 for a long distance between the fresh green hedges, 
 parts of which were in blossom, emitting a pleasant 
 odor. Yellow dandelions and white daisies specked 
 the grass here and there ; and trees in blossom started 
 up before me. The river gleamed in the sun ; and 
 upon it were small sail vessels going slowly up into 
 the English country, or coming down from it to the 
 city. Beyond the river, at long intervals, the tall chim- 
 neys of some manufactories sent out lines of wriggling 
 smoke over the lower sky, which looked like great fly- 
 ing serpents. This is one of the features of many Eng- 
 lish landscapes ; and in the opinion of some persons, 
 greatly mars the view. 
 
 After returning to the village, and wishing that the 
 better class of houses had not such high walls or 
 hedges, so that one could look in upon their floral 
 treasures, I took my vehicle for Liverpool. In the 
 pleasant scenes of such little hamlets as Hale, the eyes 
 and heart of a lover of nature can revel. None others 
 should go there. 
 
 Evening. — "Walking through one of the most bust- 
 ling streets to-night, I saw a crowd and heard a violent 
 commotion. Upon enquiring the cause, I was told that 
 some women were fighting. The numerous sig/iS in 
 the city, of "Wine and Spirit Vaults," are not up for 
 nothing. Go it, Mrs. Bull ! the English public looks on 
 
226 LIVERPOOL. 
 
 with satisfaction and applauds'tlie one with the largest 
 handfalls of hair. 
 
 Aioril {'Qth. — Spent the day in eating and drinking, 
 digesting and reflecting. To-morrow I am " homeward 
 bound." How shall I like " home as found?" Better 
 than anything I have yet seen, I" calculate." 
 
 I have only to remark under this date that if we are 
 to continue brutal flesh eaters, let us import English 
 beef and mutton. That man ought to live on vegetable 
 food, I believe; and that he can do so. That he 
 will do it when he comes to be partially civilized I have 
 no manner of doubt. Man is now the greatest beast 
 on the face of the earth. And our form of government 
 will not correct him either ! 
 
 April i9th. — Afternoon. — On board the American 
 steamer " Pacific," who sits quietly like a duck upon the 
 water that keeps her " quack" within her. There is a 
 doctor attached to the vessel. The passengers were 
 brought away from the dock at Liverpool by a small 
 steamer down the river to the Pacific. Now we take 
 the mails on board ; and now we put her nose towards 
 the Atlantic. 
 
 Old Ocean came up to meet us with a smooth face 
 and an inviting aspect. Wait a bit. General ; we'll see 
 how you behave. 
 
 White birds follow our ship, circling and wheeling, 
 yet still keeping pace with us. No Morgan Iron 
 Works, no Allaire or Novelty Works made their ma- 
 chinery. 
 
 England and Ireland sink behind us like green leaves 
 into the water. They are gone. We are upon the great 
 Bea. 
 
 The sickness of the sea comes over us. The ladies, 
 in particular, look wretched. The Captain has cross- 
 ed two hundred and thirty-six times, in various ships, 
 yet is always sick when the wind blows. Some bowels 
 are thus imperfectly made. 
 
 Would you like nie io tell you what is this seasick- 
 ness ? Imagine a can of lamp-oil with a hundred lim- 
 ber feet striving to get down your throat, while your 
 
THE OCEAN. 227 
 
 ioner works come up and endeavor to repel the in- 
 truder. The fight takes phice in the neighborhood of 
 your palate ; so that you have a taste of the whole 
 affair. 
 
 * Ocean travelling is disgusting and ought to be put a 
 stop to. 
 
 The sun rises out of the water, and having no where 
 to go, sinks down into it again at night. 
 
 Sunday arrives. There is a priest on board who is 
 helplessly sea-sick. There is a missionary on board 
 who sits by the smoke pipe, and himself sm.okes a short 
 pipe. "His face is covered with hair. He is a " brick," 
 he is ; and he preaches. A good short sermon with a 
 point to it ; not one of those drowsy long-winded dis- 
 courses which parab/ze the flies upon the wall, so that 
 they do not know which is their best foot to put forward 
 for an hour atterward ; and which drive the spiders into 
 their holes where they throw themselves upon their 
 backs and stuff their web into their ears. 
 
 Icebergs appear. We run close by a small one, fifty 
 feet high and seventy-five feet long. It is shaped like 
 a walrus with head erect. Its color is of a pure gleaming 
 white. Contact with it in the night would send ship and 
 all to the bottom. Such risks we must run if v»'e go to 
 sea. 
 
 Other icebergs are seen in various directions. There 
 is one which they estimate to be two hundred feet 
 high : slinped like a castle, v.'ith towers and battle- 
 meats. The atmosphere around for miles is made cold 
 by them. 
 
 Our machinery here gets out of order ; and we are 
 obhged to '' lay to" and tinker it for several hours. A 
 pretty place, truly, for rickety engines. But the wea- 
 ther is calra, else we should feel anxious. 
 
 We are now off the southern extremity of the Banks 
 of Newfoundland. Mother Carey's chickens come and 
 fly round us, and sport in the water. The old hen re- 
 mains at home. 
 
 In the night we had a gale. Books flew off the table ; 
 stools jumped across state-rooms ; and the passengers 
 
228 N E w ' y o R K . 
 
 were like to roll out of their berths. It is a good sea 
 boat, so they say ; therefore let us trust to luck. By 
 morning the gale has abated, and we are all right 
 again. • 
 
 We are nearing the American coast. Fogs surround 
 us. The sun is obscured and cannot be " taken," so as 
 to give us our latitude and longitude. The lead is 
 thrown and the ship goes forward cautiously. At last 
 she throws up a rocket into the gloom, and hangs out a 
 signal light. Soon from the fog- bank there starts forth 
 a small vessel ; it is one of the pilot-boats, one hundred 
 and fifty miles from shore. He has a newspaper or 
 two, more than a week old, and the passengers jump 
 at them. The pilot comes on board, and is now our 
 Captain. No use to heave the lead for him. He knows 
 every inch of the water by night or day. 
 
 Our last sea dinner is placed upon the table. The 
 Captain, as usual, furnishes champagne. The passen- 
 gers, as usual, depute one of their number to make a 
 speech. The Captain, as usual, is lauded to the skies 
 for his skill and seamanship; and thanked, as usual, 
 for not wrecking the vessel, and thus destroying the 
 passengers and himself. The Captain, as usual, returns 
 thanks. Never had a better set ef passengers ; would 
 like to sail with them for ever. Denies, as usual, having 
 any skill, but always means to do his duty. Then, as 
 usual, there is great applause ; thumping upon the table 
 and jingling of wine glasses. 
 
 Morning breaks on the 1st of May, 1854. The fog3 
 are gone ; and the sky is clear and briUiant. My heart 
 leaps up like a child \yith the Christmas sun. Before 
 me is Americ^i ! 
 
 The beautiful bay of New York, adorning the plea- 
 santest city in the world, w^inds its curved shores be- 
 hind the ship as we go on. All faces smile. The land, 
 the water and the trees are smihng too. The gun is 
 fired and we wheel into the dock where the ship is to 
 rest. The strong arms of my native land are around 
 us.. We are safe! 
 
 FINIS. X, 
 

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