5b nd .^ 0} ^ /-^ /-. -^ THE PLANTER'S GUIDE FOR CULTIVATING AND CURING '^ ^ ^m^^. o o^^ m CONTAINING yiiACTICAZ INFOJtMATION, FROM THE SELEC- TION OF THE SEED-BED TO TSE FREFAItATION OF THE CROP FOR 3IARKET. AISO, INTERESTING IN- FORMATION AND INSTRUCTIONS CONCERNING THE PRESENTED BY THE SHELTON TOBACCO CURING COMPANY, OF ASHEVILLE, MORTH CAROLINA. E. J. ASTON, Secretary. V. K. SPEAR. President. Gctchell Brothers, Printers, 253 Washington St., Boston, Mass. 7 9^f^ INTRODUCTION. In publishing and circulating tliis Pamphlet, our object is to call the atten- tion of Tobacco Growers to the Shelton Tobacco Hanger; but, at the same time, it has been our aim in preparing it, to collect the best practical and most reliable information possible ; and, in fixct, to make it what its title claims, '^ The Planter's Guide." To accomplish this, we have consulted some of the most successful Tobacco Planters ; the result of which is, instead of one man's ideas on this subject, we present you with the combined experience of many. We have also con- sulted the following excellent publications on the Cultivation and Curing of Tobacco, and acliuowledge our indebtedness to their Authors and Publish- ers : " Reports of the Department of Agriculture," published at the Govern- ment Printhig Office, Washington, D.C. ; '' Tobacco Culture," published by Orange Judd & Co., Xew York ; " How Tobacco is Raised and Prepared for Mai-ket," publislied by the Southern Fertilizing Company, Richmond, Va., and " Slielton's Prize Essay on the Culture and Management of Tobacco." Our Patent Hanger is the invention of Mr. Samuel C. Shelton, who is well known as the flrst successful tobacco grower in Western North Carolina. This invention is destined to supply a long-felt want which none were better aware of or better prepared to meet than the Inventor ; he having had twenty- five years' experience in cultivating, curing and manufacturing tobacco. For exhibiting the best Leaf Tobacco lie has received the following awards : — First Pfp.ininm at BMeigh, North Carolina, 1871. '• •' Bichmond, Virginia, 1872. " " •• Vienna Exposition, 1873. For information concerning the advantages of the Hanger we refer you to page 13 ; for instructions in making and using, to the pages following, in- cluding articles on " Preparations for Curing and Stringing," "Gatliering the Crop," and '' Stringing the Leaves." The results of "' Experiments in Weight," '•Testimonials," and other information of interest, may be found on the clos- ing pages of this Pamphlet. All of wliich is i-espectfully submitted by the SHELTON TOBACCO CURING COMPANY. Copies of this Pamphlet sent free on application to the Company. THE PLANTER'S GUIDE FOR CultivatinQT and Curinor Tobacco. (CULTIVATION OF TOBACCO. The cultivation of tobacco in the United States has become so ex- tensive as to embrace at least forty-two States and Territories, which produce an annual crop of about three hundred million pounds, with a value to the producers of at least forty million dollars. Therefore it is a matter of great importance to the planter, how to cultivate and prepare it for market in the best manner, and at the least possible expense. After making careful observations, we believe that tobacco, with skilful culture and management, is the most remunerative of any crop grown, and a poor business if grown and handled without the application of those principles and appliances which extensive expe- rience has proved to be the best adapted to the end desired. VARIETIES OF TOBACCO. Loudon enumerates fourteen different species of tobacco, of which only one, the Nicotiana Tabaceum., is generally cultivated. Of this species there are many varieties, each possessing qualities supposed to be derived from climate, soil, and modes of cultivation. Few, if any, plants are so much affected by the peculiarities of the soil on which it is grown, by circumstances of fertilization and mode of curing, as tobacco. For example, the Broad Leaf Orinoco, when cultivated on the rich and highly manured lands of Kentucky, pro- duces the dark, strong-flavored " shipping tobacco ;" and when grown on the light gray soil of Virginia or North Carolina, with but little or no manure, and cured in a close barn with artificial heat, will produce the bright " wrappers" for which these States are so famous. The variety known as Connecticut Seed Leaf is grown principally in Massachusetts, Connecticut, New York, Pennsylvania and Ohio, and is used in the manufacture of cigars, both for fillers and wrappers. Florida, portions of Ohio, Pennsylvania and other States, produce the Cuba, which is also used in the manufacture of cigars. Maryland, Virginia, North Carolina, Kentucky, Tennessee, Missouri and other States, cultivate many varieties, prominent among which are the Big and Little Orinoco (or Broad and Narrow Leaf Orinoco), Big and Little Frederick, Blue and Yellow Pryor, Big Stem, White Stem, Gooch, and numerous other kinds that bear different names in different localities ; and though mostly hybrids, they each possess some good qualities which recommend them to the growers. SEED. Whatever the variety cultivated, it is very important that you have good seed for sowing. In order to secure this hereafter, a few of the earliest and most promising plants should be selected from the seed- bed, transplanted in some favorable spot, and carefully attended throughout the season. In time these should be pruned of all except the large leaves, and only the two topmost branches left to bloom. These plants should be carefully suckered, and about the first of Octo- ber, every pod not thoroughly ripe, plucked off and thrown away, and the others gathered and put in a dry place to cure. When dry, the seed should be rubbed out, sifted, and placed in a dry vessel, and kept where no dampness can reach them. Seed preserved in this manner will keep for years. By giving a little extra attention to your seed- plants, you can increase the yield and improve the quality of your tobacco. SELECTION AND PREPARATION OF PLANT-BEDS. In selecting a place for plant-beds, remember that you wish to obtain early and vigorous plants ; therefore, take a rich, warm hillside, protected by timber or otherwise. Red lands are usually unsuited for this purpose. Never use wet or cold land. After finding a suita- ble place, select a dry time during the month of December or Janu- arj^, — the sooner the better, — rake off the leaves, lay down skids (about three inches in diameter), three feet apart, across which lay a bed of wood five or six feet wide, and high enough to burn for about an hour and a half and 3'et leave a sufficient quantity to remove and kindle in another place. After the fire has burned the length of tuue specified, move it the width of the first layer, then throw on brush, a good bed of wood, and continue as before. Every farmer ought to provide himself with iron hooks for pulling plant-bed fires. If it is possible to injure land by hard burning, we have never experienced it ; and think that where one bed is injured by burning, ten are injured for the want of it. For every ten thousand plants required, there ought to be at least ten yards square of plant-bed. A bed of this size will supply more than the number mentioned, but it is much better to have some for j'our neighbor than to be under tlie necessity of begging plants. After burning, the land should remain untouched a few weeks, that the rains and frosts may assist in pulverizing the soil ; then with a mattock, dig up the bed without turning it over, and pulverize thor- oughly with a hoe and rake. Eemove all the roots, spread a light coating of stable manure, chop it in, rake again, and the bed is ready for sowing. A large tablespoonful of seed to the ten j'ards square is enough to sow. This should be carefully mixed with sifted ashes, about half of it sown one Ava}', and the other half by walking across the first sowing. By tliis the seed will be more regu- larly distributed. After seeding, the land should be rolled or trodden until it is smooth. Now is the time to manure. We consider horse manure collected under cover (and free from litter or grass seed) to be the best for this purpose. Chop it fine, and spread a coating (sa}'' half an inch or more) evenly over the bed. This should be the last manuring unless the spring is very dr}'', when a light top-dressing occasionally will be beneficial. As to the use of guano on plant-beds, we are not prepared to rec- ommend it as highly as stable manure. We will add, that in the absence of this manure, a liglit dressing of plaster will be of service ; but if 3"ou have good stable manure, " let well enough alone ; " for if these directions as to land and management are followed, there is about as much chance to fail in plants as to fail of going to sleep at night after a hard day's work burning land. About three weeks after sowing, the bed should again be rolled or trodden, and covered with fine brush twigs to prevent its drying up, and protect it from the frost. The brush should not be removed until the plants are large enough to nearly cover the ground. There are few circumstances under which a plant-bed in the right locality, well burnt and manured, should be Avatered. We are dis- posed to think that watering is useless unless the spring is very dry. PREPARATION OF NEW LAND. First take up every growth not too large to grub, and throw them into heaps. Then cut the small trees, the brush of which throw on the grub heaps ; then cut and remove the larger timber. After the ground has been cleaned oft" it should be coultered at least three times ; then harrow and rake it to pulverize the soil and remove the roots. It should now be laid off at a distance of three feet each way and hilled. The hilling is very important, as a plow in new land will not prepare it right, and " whatever is w^orth doing is worth doing well." The manuring of new land, though troublesome, paj^s well. We would recommend it to be applied in the hill if the land is rough, as broadcast will waste much of it the first year. Thin ridge land will produce a beautiful crop with a tablespoonful of guano to the hill. The second year it may be manured as other land ; for if the first year's work is well done, it will be prepared to receive manure broadcast. New land should be hilled at least three weeks before transplanting, and while the land is moist, so that the soil will become compact enough to retain moisture, that the plant may thrive without rain after being set out. PREPARATION OF OLD LAND. A graj^, gravelly soil, wdth manure, will make a fine article of to- bacco if the manure is propei'ly applied. . On common corn land the application of two hundred pounds of Peruvian guano per acre (or other equally good fertilizer) applied broadcast, wall insure a fine ci-op ; but if the present crop is the ob- ject, it may be made with one half this quantity applied in the hill. "VVe have succeeded well b^' the application of guano in drills. After tlie land has been thoroughly plowed, lay it off in rows three feet apart, and in these strew the fertilizer. Plow on each side of the rows (turning the furrows in) to cover the manure and form continu- ous beds, which should afterwards be nicely hilled. We think all up- land should be hilled. About one hundred and twenty pounds of guano is enough per acre when drilled. Land for raising shipping to- bacco should be more heavily manured ; say for an acre, six or eight cords of manure spread broadcast and plowed under ; and in addition from two to four hundred pounds of some good fertilizer applied in drills. Ashes is a superior fertilizer for tobacco of any kind, on any soil. In the Northern and Middle States, where lands are high and the seasons short, the growers of tobacco resort to a system of high t nmnnriiig, for the purpose of forcing the plants to mature and increas- ing tiieu' production. With tiicm it is quite common to apply ten or tweh^e cords of stable manure, and in addition to this, from two to five hundred pounds of guano per acre. TRANSPLANTING. When the plants are four or five inches high in the beds they are ready to set out in the hills. As a rule we prefer a medium-sized plant, because the larger the plant the more moisture and sustenance it requires, and the small plant is safer, but not so far advanced as the medium or larger one. After giving that part of the bed from which you wish to remove plants a thorough soaking with water, for the purpose of softening the soil to prevent the breaking off" of the finer roots, remove the plants carefully and wash or shake off all the plant-bed soil in order to give them a fresh free start in the new soil. Take great care ol them, and do not place so many together that they Avill be crushed or bruised, nor keep them out of the ground until the tender roots dry up, but take them at once to the field and drop one on each hill, to be followed immediately by the planter, who should take hold of it near the roots with the thumb and forefinger of the left hand and with the right hand smooth down, or in other words, straighten out, the roots. Then, with a peg about six inches long, make a hofe in the centre of the hill large enough to admit the roots without their touching on the sides ; also make it deep enough to take in the longest roots without bending them. Put in the plant carefully as deep as the bud ; then, with the peg and thumb of the left hand, press the soil firmly to the roots, and draw the earth around the plant so as to fill the entire hole. The best time to transfer the plants from the bed to the hills is when the soil is moist, but not so wet as to cause it to bake around the roots and kill them, or prevent their getting an early start. If the season is very dry, before setting out, take the dry earth from the tops of the hills, set the plants late in the day, giving them the benefit of the night dew, and before the dew has dried off in the morning, cover them with straw, brush, leaves, or anything suitable. This covering should remain until rain falls or until the plants get a good start. This we consider the best plan that can be adopted under these circumstances. We do not approve of watering, because it has a tendency to make the soil bake, as mentioned above ; but when it becomes necessary, from a continued drought, after watering 8 the hill, cover the spot with dry earth, and it will tend to prevent baking. EEPLANTING. This should be attended to as soon as you are satisfied the plant is weak or has failed, because j'ou should have as little difference in the growth of your plants as possible. By exercising proper care in the first planting yon will have but little replanting to do. We believe that cramped and crooked roots, air admitted to the roots by careless planting, and the bruising and crushing of plants by rough handling, are nearly, if not quite, all the causes of a poor " stand," providing the land has been properly prepared and is in good condition at the time of planting. CUT-WORMS. Soon after setting out the plants, look sharp for long black or brown worms, which burrow in the hills and destroy the plants. Unearth and kill them every morning as long as the}'' can be found. They seldom trouble new land to an}' great extent. The best time and method we know of for destroying them is to plow up the land during the winter and freeze them. CULTIVATION^ OF NEW LAND. The main secret is to keep it clean and well stirred. In new land this may be done by two good workings in the proper time, though a third working will often be veiy beneficial. If the land is freshly hilled, about two weeks after planting, the hills should be scraped down, and a little fresh earth drawn around each plant. About three weeks after this it should be hilled up, and in ordinar}- cases this will be sufficient, except to keep down the sprouts that may put up. Tobacco ought not to be worked after topping, as it will bruise and break the leaves. Plowing smooth new land once (at the last work- ing) is of service ; but if it is rough and stumpy, keep a plow out of it altogether. CULTIVATION OF OLD LAND. Old land requires more work than new. As soon as the plants get sufficient hold, narrow up your cultivator, so as not to disturb the roots, and go through it once for the first hoeing. Then cut up the remaining grass and weeds with a hoe, and level the soil around the plants, stirring it slightly. In ten days or a fortnight, go over it again with a plow or cultivator, twice in a row, using a short single- 9 tree to avoid injuring the plants. This time you can stir tlie ground more freel}' around the plants, and should hill them slightly in hoe- ing, being careful ViOt to cover any of the leaves. After this it is better to perform all the work with hand labor, in order to save the plants from injury. Stir the ground with a hoe as often as necessary to keep down the weeds. WORMING. If the worms are numerous, the plants should be thoroughly exam- ined at least twice a week. Destroy not only the worms, but all the eggs that can be found ; or, whnt is still better, seek out and destroy the flies which deposit these eggs. These flies are gray in color, with yellow spots on each side of the bod}', and may be found about sun- set flitting about the Aveeds and flowers, extracting their juices by means of their peculiar tongue, which is four or five inches in length. The Jamestown weed, or " Jimson" weed, as it is commonl}^ called, which bears a white, bell-shaped blossom, is ver^- attractive to these flies. Many of them maj^ be destroyed by dropping a little of the following mixture into these blossoms : One ounce of cobalt, dissolved in one X)int of loater and stvee/ened tnith some kind of syru]p. But this is equally as fatal to the blossoms as to the flies ; therefore we give you the following instructions for making an artificial substitute, which will prove to be more durable than the natural flower, and quite as effective. The ladies can best perform this work, as they happily possess more taste and skill in such matters. Procure for their use a quire of white paper and a bottle of mucil- age. Then make a small block of suitable size and shape, on which to form the cone, and furnish them with a natural flower to imitate. If you have no blossom of the Jamestown weed, let them try their powers of imitation in making a " morning-glory." After forming the cone, clip it around the rim and curl slightly, to make it look as much like a flower as possible. Attach them to branches or bushes, and place them in your thickest growth of tobacco. They should be supplied with a few drops of the poison every evening, and it may be necessary to replace the flowers after a heavy rain. By following the above instructions you will save much trouble in worming. A flock of turkeys will also be found very useful in catching and de- stroying worms, and can only be equalled by children to whom pre- miums have been oflered. 10 TOPPING. This operation consists in taking off the top of the plant, and must be done for the purpose of concentrating the strength of the land in such number of leaves as will best mature. It should be performed as soon as the seed-buds show themselves. No rule can be given which will apply to all cases, as mucli depends on the variety grown, the condition of the soil, and whether your crop is well advanced or otherwise. With an early crop on rich soil, do not take off more than one or two of the top leaves, if any at all ; while oil the contrary, if your soil is poor and crop late, top down to that number of leaves which, according to your judgment, will fully ripen. The number of leaves to be left on the plant A'aries, in dif- ferent sections and under different circumstances, from eight to tiventy. PEIMING. This consists in removing the lower leaves of the plant to the height of five or six inches from the ground ; these are removed for two rea- sons. First, if allowed to remain, they will be made worthless by coming in contact with the soil. Second, to improve the quality of the remaining leaves, — -as in topping. Do not commence priming until the principal part of your topping is done ; then continue it reg- ularly, and save every leaf with as much care as if it were gold. Though light in weight, you will get some as fine tobacco from these primings as any in your crop, and it is simplj^ folly to throw them away. SUCKERING. The suckers are small leaves that start from the base of the larger ones after the plant has been topped. They make their appearance at the top first, and should be continually nipped off as fast as they become large enough to get hold of; otherwise they will retard the growth and prevent the early maturing of the plant. REMAEKS. "We have described the operations of worming, topping, priming and suckering, separately and in the regular order which they first appear ; but they cannot be wholly performed and finally disposed of in the same manner. Soon after you commence worming, the buds make their appearance and claim their share of your attention : then follows the priming and 11 suckering. The first suckers will appear in about a week after top- ping, and will afterwards require plucking two or three times in the same number of weeks. The worming must still be attended to. Thus it will be seen that two or more of these are continued operations and can be performed in connection with each other. To the experienced Tobacco Grow er, much that we have written in the way of explanation may seem altogether needless ; but our intention is to embod}'-, in this pamphlet, all the practical information needed by new beginners, together with valuable hints to all Tobacco Growers. CONSTRUCTING BARNS. SIZE OF BARNS. For Coal or Flue curing, we believe in small barns, as the heat can be more evenly distributed in them. The old barns (16x16 inside) used in the old process will answer the purpose ; though if the barn is to be built, we recommend it to be not more than four tiers high, placing the lower tier-poles eight feet from the ground, and the height between the tiers, about the average length of the leaves 3'ou grow. Small farmers might build even smaller ones, say of that size which the force they work can fill in one or two days, calculating the hangers five inches apart, and a " hand " to fill one hundred hangers per day. MATERIALS. Logs, well "chinked" and "daubed "with clay, inside and out, are probably the best materials for walls ; but in localities where thej' cannot be readity procured, any construction which can be made to hold the he'at will answer, " Adobe," or bricks dried in the sun (made of clay and a small quantity of straw mixed to prevent them from cracking), will make a good wall. For tier-poles, use either straight poles or sawed lumber 2x4 ; arrange them to extend from back to front, and do this while building the walls, if made of logs or adobe. The roof can be made of any material which will retain the heat. The doorway should be in the middle of the wall (six feet high and four feet wide), and to extend to the ground or floor ; furnish it with a good close shutter or door. 12 FLUES. In the consti'iiction of flues, stone of any kind that will not burst or crumble when exposed to the heat, brick or sheet-iron covered with mortar, cement or clay, to receive and deliver a steady heat, are the principal materials used. As applied to a tobacco barn, they usually consist of two furnaces built inside (near the right and left front corners as you enter), with the ends projecting through the walls far enough to allow the feed- doors to open from the outside. Connected with these, on the inside, are funnels or passages, sixteen or eighteen inches in diameter, which extend around three sides of the barn (about two feet from the walls), and serve to distribute the heat evenly, and convey the smoke to the chimney or outlet. This chimnej', or stem, as commonly arranged, is situated at the centre of the rear wall where the pipes or flues meet and join it. Extend the chimney through the wall, and far enough beyond to prevent all danger from sparks. In order to insiu'e a good draught, the chimney should be about four inches higher than the mouth of the furnace. There arc patent flues in use which have given very good satisfaction, and we advise those who intend curing with flues to ex- amine them before buildino- the common flue. HOUSES FOR AIR-CURING. The drying house should be so constructed as to allow the free cir- culation of air among the leaves, and protect them, when necessary, from the direct action of the sun, wind and rain. Any building will answer the purpose which has a good roof, and windows and air-holes enough to regulate the circulation. In erecting a building especially for this purpose, place a ventilator on the roof, and board the sides of the house perpendicularlj', hang- ing every other board on hinges. The inside should be divided by poles or timbers, into " rooms," to accommodate the length of your sticks, and also into tiers, one above the other, about two feet apart, more or less, according to the length of the leaves grown. Before proceeding to the gathering and curing of the crop, we call your attention to our 13 TOBACCO HANGER, Patented April 6, 1S75, BY SAMUEL C. SHELTON. This device is especiull}' adapted to curing tlie leaves, by gathering from the stalk, when fully ripe, and stringing them on the wire attach- ment ; thereby avoiding the splitting, cutting, transporting and curing of the stalk. Every experienced Tobacco Grower realizes more fully each year that he is handling at heav}' expense, and material injur}" to the leaf, a stalk entirely worthless as a commodity ; and while readil}' admit- ting the fact, he has still continued to follow the old and universal plan of curing, for want of something better. ■ We now present a device by which he can cure the gathered leaves alone, and let the stalk remain in the field to enrich the land. We will enumerate some of the advantages gained \)j its use : First. — Economy of room. By putting a larger quantity on a hanger and an increased number of hangers in a barn, you are en- abled to cure at least four times the usual quantity in the same barn. Second. — It takes less time and less heat to cure this four times as much, than one house full by the old process. Third. — It takes less time to gather and prepare it for market. Fourth. — In curing, it saves at least three fourths of the coal or fuel, and as much in time. Fifth. — It saves all the trouble of stripping after it is cured, and one half the trouble in assorting. Sixth. — It enables 3'ou to employ cheap labor in gathering, therebj^ saving nearly one half the usual expense. Seventli. — It saves the tearing and bruising of the leaves, and use- less weight consequent upon the pi-esence of the stalk. Eighth. — It allows you to save the leaves as they ripen, and let the green ones remain to mature. NintJi. — It saves ever?/ leaf in the crop, and leaves no waste or rubbish. 14 Tenth. — There is much less danger of injiuy from " running," on account of the absence of the stalk. Eleventh. — It improves the quality and increases the iveight^ by preventing the sap from forcing the oil, gum, or other valuable prop- erties of the leaf, back into the stalk. Twelfth. — It enables the planter to cure his tobacco thoroughly, and greatly improves the color and texture. By the use of this hanger in air-curing, all of these advantages are gained, except the saving of fuel ; and for this claim we substitute one of vast importance to all who cure their tobacco in this manner, which is, the avoidance of " pole-sweat," or rotting of the stem and leaf while curing. PREPAEATIONS FOR CURING ON THE SHELTON HANGER. This device is made either by attaching wire to the sticks now in use, or to others made for the purpose. Cut the wire the length of the stick, and attach it at the centre, either by giving it one turn around the stick, or passing it through a hole made with a brad-awl, and giving it two or three twists, leaving the wire parallel with the stick, with the ends in opposite directions. The wire may be attached to any part of the stick, though we recom- mend attachino; it at the centre. SCAFFOLD. When read}^ to commence " priming" or gathering your crop, erect a scaffold near the barn, on which to hang the tobacco after it is strung. This may be constructed of poles, scantling or other mate- rial, and supported by forked sticks or horses. These poles should be the same distance apart as those in the barn. A barn 10x16, with four " rooms," six full tiers and a roof tier, will contain one thousand hangers filled with tobacco. A scaffold ma}^ be built to hold this number or less, as the tobacco can be removed to the barn whenever the scaffold is fall. PREPARATIONS FOR STRINGING. Support the hangers on two upright posts or sticks, having notches in the ends to keep the hangers in position. Place two hangers paral- lel with each other, and two feet apart ; then construct a table or 15 bench, about four feet in length and two in width, near each end of the hangers. The following diagram ilhistratcs the scaffold, hangers, tables and position of operators : — ■I i"™ii" wtWiM'jj'.BWBTOaa o < .'•:■:: oa I ■ ■ ■ I ■ I ^ O : . ; • ts ; j i i I (/) Operator. / ® Hanger. ® s ® «) «) J_»- (D 9j ® ® ® GATHERING THE CROP. If the plant is fully ripe, remove all the leaves at once, keeping the stems together, and transport them to the scaffold with a sled, wagon, barrow, basket, or in any way most convenient. When a plant is only partially ripe, if you desire to make a fine, uniform crop, remove only the ripe leaves, leaving the others to mature. When the leaves are about ripe, thej^ present a spotted appearance and become brittle. By bending them short, they will break before doubling. STRINGING THE LEAVES. As the leaves are brought from the field, place them on the tables with the stems, or butts, toward the operators ; string them by passing the end of the wire through the stems ; let the first leaf hang on one side of the stick, the second on the opposite side, and the third on the same side as the first. Continue iu this manner until the stick is full, allowing sufficient space at the ends to rest on the tier-poles. We have strung and cured from one hundred and twenty to one 16 hundred and tliirt}- leaves on a single hanger ; but would not recom- mend stringing more than one hundred average leaves on a four-feet hanger, as they will cure in less time and with less heat than a larger number. Two persons can string on one hanger at the same time. As soon as a hanger is filled, place it on the scaflbld and proceed with another in the same manner. An ordinary/ "hand" will string one hundred hangers per day, while a more active person, with little experience, will string one hundred and twenty-five or upward. CUKING " GOLD LEAF." The bright, lemon-col ore .1 tobacco, used for fan 03^ wrappers, should be cured with charcoal or flues. The finest quality of this is raised in Virginia, North Carolina, and portions of Kentucky, Tennessee and Missouri, and is cured in the following manner : — Fill the barn (placing the hangers about five inches apart) and hang your thermometer on one of the lower tiers, near the centre. Start 3^our fires so as to produce an uniform heat of about ninety degrees, Fahrenheit, and continue this temperature until the tobacco becomes sufliciently 3'ellow. No exact time can be given for 3^ellowing, as tobacco which con- tains a superabundance of sap, or is very large, requires more time than that which is smaller or has less sap. An ordinary crop will require from twenty-four to thirt3--six hours. Do not allow it to become real bright yellow before raising the heat, as it continues to yellow for several hours after. Now raise the heat tliree degrees ]}er hour until j^ou arrive at a tem- perature of one hundred and ten degrees, and remain at this point until the ends of the leaves curl slightl3' ; after which, continue to advance at the same rate as before {three degrees per hour) until 3'ou arrive at one hundred and twenty. To prevent " sweating" during this time, the safest plan that can be adopted is, to keep the door open. It is not necessar3^ to keep wide open, though there is no objection to its remaining so, except that it requires more fuel to secure the heat desired. At the beginning of the season, in curing the first tobacco in each bai-n, or in curing Jieavy or green tobacco, this plan should invariably be adopted, otherwise the dampness will endanger its injur3' from sweating. Having arrived at one hundred and twenty, the door should now be closed ; and under favorable circumstances ma3' be closed at the 17 start, but must be opened often while advancing from ninety-five to one hundred and ten degrees. If sweating commences (which may be known by the leaves becom- ing damp and pliable), raise the heat and open the door, for the pur- pose of creating a current of hot air, which will soon cause it to dis- appear. The leaf should now be cured before arriving at a temperature of one hundred and thirt}^ ; therefore advance only at the rate of tioo degrees per hour for the next five hours. Then, in curing the stem, raise the \iQSii five degrees per hour uniW you arrive at a temperature of from one hundred and sixty-five to one hundred and seventy-five degrees. By this time the stems should be thoroughly cured ; but if not, go no higher, but continue the heat, at the highest point reached, until they are. We condense the instructions for regulating the heat, in the form of a table for reference : Remain at 90° until sufficiently j-ellow. Advance from OO'^ to 120'^, 3'^ per hour. " " 120° " 130°, 2° " " u u 130° .. 165° or 175°, 5° " " Usually the leaves begin to curl at the ends by the time one hun- dred and ten is reached, which makes it unnecessary to stop at this point. This table is simple, and as reliable as any that can be given. There are cases when crops are not in ordinary condition ; then no table can be followed successfully. If you see the face side of the leaves turning a reddish-brown color, the heat must be increased a little ; while, on the other hand, if they begin to show reddish spots near the edges and on both sides, you have too much heat. While advancing from one hundred and twenty to one hundred and thirty (in curing the leaf), care must be taken that you do not lower the temperature below the highest point reached. Never go above one hundred and eighty degrees, unless you desire to scorch your tobacco ; which, some claim, improves the flavor, though it injures the color. In curing with charcoal, a barn 16x16 will require nine fires; one 18x18, twelve fires, and one 20x20, sixteen fires, so arranged as to distribute the heat evenly. If the wind should blow heavily against one side of the barn, raise the fires on that side a little above the others, and thus partially counteract its eflfect. After curing, close the barn tightlj' in order to keep the tobacco dry. 18 CURING SHIPPING TOBACCO. Let it remain in the barn or on the scaffold for three or four days, or until it begins to 3'ellow ; then make slow fires of logs, so arranged as to blaze but little. Care should be taken that the tobacco does not sweat from too much heat ; but if it should, proceed as with bright wrappers. " Houseburn " is rot,, caused bj' heating the tobacco by overcrowd- ing. If it should heat before firing, start the fires at once. After the leaves are well dried, increase the heat until the stems are cured ; providing you do not go above a temperature of one hundred and seventy-five degrees in so doing. The dark, heav}- shippiug tobacco is cured by firing immediately after it is housed. SUN-CURING. This requires an abundance of scaffolds, and well-ventilated houses. The latter can be made of any desired length, but onl}^ as wide as will give free ventilation. The scaffold should be on the side giving most shelter from the winds, while it secures the full heat of the sun ; and near the house, that the tobacco may be readily transferred from one to the other. The best results are obtained when the tem- perature is from sixty-five to seventy-five degrees, with a certain de- gree of moisture in the atmosphere. When the tobacco is on the scaffolds, protect it from the winds. If you have a very hot, dry day, which will cure it too rapidly to produce the desired color, close up the hangers on the scaflbld, and it will have a tendency to " slow " the process. Four or five days is enough on the scaffold ; then put it into a well-lighted and well-ventilated house, where it should be kept and thoroughly cured b}' opening the doors and Avindows wlien- ever the weather is favorable. After it is cured, close up the house and let the tobacco remain until you are I'cady to assort it. AIR-CURING. In air-curing, house your tobacco immediately after gathering ; and during favorable weather, open your doors and ventilators that the air may circulate freely. It is necessary to exclude the rain and damp- ness, which materially damage the tobacco and injure its color. After it is nearly cured, do not give it full ventilation during the prevalence of high winds ; a stove is very useful in preventing too much damp- ness, in case of continued wet weather. 19 SWEATING OR FERMEXTING. Cigar tobacco is subjected to a process of fermentation, called " sweating," which should be carefully conducted, for on this depends the color, and, in a large degree, the flavor of the tobacco. Place it in lieaps about six feet in diameter, and cover them with blankets or anything that will press lightl}- and exclude the air. In about twen- ty-four liours it will commence to ferment ; and when it becomes so hot inside that the hand cannot well bear it, break up tlie heaps and repack, placing the heated tobacco on the outside, and again cover with cloths. Repeat until all the heat is gone, which generally takes from five to six weeks. ASSORTING. The variety of tobacco grown, and the market for which it is in- tended, must largel}' govern the planter during this operation. It should be performed when the leaves are moist enough to handle without being injured. The usual custom is to make but three grades, M'hich are distinguished b}' different names, such as first, second and third qualities, manufacturing, shipping and lugs, or bright, medium and dull. These grades or qualities are principally composed of ripe, over- ripe and unripe leaves at the time of gathering. If you tie it in bundles or " hands " (which we believe to be work thrown away, besides injuring one of the best leaves in each bundle), form them with from six to ten leaves each, of uniform length and color. BULKIN^G. If your iiouse has a grouud-floor, citlier lay down boards or build raised platforms throe or four feet in width, and construct perpendic- ular ends or bulkheads, to keep the tobacco in position. Commence at one end. and after straightening out the tobacco, lay a row on one side the full length of the platform, with the stems out and evenly arranged. Then \ay a row on the opposite side, allowing the ends of the leaves to lap over those of the first row about five inches, and so continue to pack closely. Place boards and weights on top of the bulk, leavinr/ the sides open. This will keep the leaves moist, and, at the same time, allow the stems to become dr}' enough for packing. While in bulk examine it occasionally, and if it should heat, or not dry sufficiently, overhaul and repack it loosely without weighting the top. 20 PACiaNG. When the large or heavy portion of the stem becomes dry enough to break easily (with the leaf yet soft and pliable) , the tobacco is in proper condition for packing. If any portion of it is too soft or has an ill smell, it should be made sweet and drj^ by a few hours' sun. If it has to be shipped a great distance, we would recommend pack- ing in hogsheads, placing each layer across the one below it. To- bacco of fine quality should not be pressed too hard, as it will surely be injured thereby. COMPAEATIVE STATEMENTS. In order to show more clearly the advantages gained by using the Patent Hanger, we make the following comparative statements of the two methods of gathering and curing ; and though they only apply to one section of the country, as far as prices of labor and coal are concerned, yet the percentage saved will be nearly the same in all cases ; consequently the amount saved will be greater in sections where labor and fuel are more expensive. A barn 16x16 will contain two thousand pounds of tobacco on the Shelton Hangers, and can be cured with one hundred bushels of coal in two days or less ; Avhile to cure the same quantity on the stalk requires four barns, or four cur- ings in one barn of three days each, which will consume at least one hundred bushels of coal at each curing, or four hundred bushels in all, and require the attention of a man for twelve days and nights. COST OP GATHERING AND CURING ON SHELTON HANGER. To gather and cure one barn containing two thousand pounds after curing requires, — Gathering. 3 men one day (® 75 cents . . . . . . . ^2 25 17 women and children fa) 40 cents . . . . . 6 80 Curing. 1 man two days and nights fa) 75 cents each . . . 3 00 100 bushels coal fa) 5 cents . . . . . . . 5 00 Total, $17 05 18 00 20 00 $56 00 17 05 21 CUKING ON THE STALK. To cure two thousand pounds by the old i^rocess will require four barns, and the cost will be as follows : — Gathering. 24 men one day (a) 75 cents (to fill four barns) . . . $18 00 Curing. 4 men three days and nights (a) lb cents each 400 bushels coal (100 at each barn) (a) 5 cents Total, Cost of curing on Patent Hanger .... Difference in cost of curing 2000 pounds .... $38 95 By using the Patent Hanger you can save from sixty-jive to seventy per cent of the usual cost of gathering and curing your crop, be- sides increasing its value from eight to ten per cent, by producing a more uniform color, improving the texture and increasing the weight. There are other advantages to be derived from its use, all of which will become apparent to those who try it. For instance, the cost of hauling the green stalks from the field to the barn is wholly avoided. This is no small item, and liad it been included in the cost of gather- ing by the old process, would have made a still greater difference in favor of the Hanger. However, we do not claim to save all the ex- pense of gathering and curing a crop. COAL AND AIR CUEING. Growers of tobacco in nearly all parts of the country (except New England) who have formeii}' practised air-curing, are gradually adopt- ing the quicker and more profitable method of curing in two or three days by artificial heat. B^^ the latter mode of curing, tobacco is much improved in body, texture and color. Even in the New England States, we find that air-curing does not fully answer their require- ments. At a recent meeting of the Connecticut Valley Agricultural Institute, Professor Stockbridge, of Amherst College, in speaking of air-curing, said, " The curing process is defective ; by the slow, gradual process much of the essential narcotic oil is lost." He also referred to " a new system of curing, largely adopted in other States," and said, " This artificial curing retains all the virtue of the tobacco, in fact increases its essential oils." 22 EXPERIMENT IN WEIGHT. We now give yon the actual resnlt of an experiment made during the past season, for the express purpose of deciding this question : Does tobacco cured off the stalk lose or gain in weight ? Some con- tended that it would lose, others that it would gain ; while a majority of those who expressed their opinion on the subject thought it would make no difference in the weight, whether cured on or off the stalk. Although convinced by the laws of nature that it must necessarily gain, we only claimed, previous to making this experiment, that it lost nothing. It is evident that each leaf, either in dying or drying, feeds back a large portion of its substance through the same channels that supplied it. The most casual observer of nature cannot have failed to notice this fact. The grass, the weeds, the corn, and every tree, shrub or plant, asserts it in the most unmistakable manner. Tobacco cannot be exempt from this law of nature. The fine or thin portions of the leaf are the first to cure ; next the smaU and large fibres, and lastly the stem. When cured on the stalk, the stalk is the last to cure, and much of that which is necessary to give the leaf "body" is forced back into the stalk, causing it to weigh more, and the leaf less. Again, in curing by artificial heat, the longer time tobacco is "• fired " or subjected to heat after the leaf is cured, the less it will weigh ; therefore, in firing, the extra time required to cure the stalk, you are lessening the weight of the leaves. In making this test, two hundred average-size plants were selected, divided into two lots of one hundred each, and weighed. Lot No. 1 weighed 231 lbs. 3 oz. ; No. 2, 222 lbs. 13 oz. The leaves were stripped from Lot No. 1, and cured on the Shelton Hangers, and the stalks were cured sep- aratel3^ Lot No. 2 was cui'ed on the stalks, with the following results : — CURED ON SHELTON HANGERS. Weight of 100 plants before curing " leaves and stalks after curing Shrinkage in curing .... Weight of stalks after curing . " leaves " . . . 251 lbs. 3 oz. . 38 lbs. 13 oz. . 192 lbs. 6 oz. 13 lbs. G oz. 25 lbs. 7 oz. . 222 lbs. 13 oz. . 37 lbs. 10 oz. . 185 lbs. 3 oz. . 15 lbs. 5 oz. . 22 lbs. 5 oz. 2?! CURED ON STALKS. Weight of 100 plants before curing " leaves and stalks after curing Shrinkage in curing .... Weight of stalks after curing . " leaves " ... Thus you will notice a difference of 3 pounds 2 ounces in favor of Lot No. 1, cured on our Patent Hangers. In reply, you will naturally say that this Ibt weighed 8 pounds 6 ounces more than No. 2 before curing, which is very true ; but we find, by dividing the weight of the green plants (231 pounds 3 ounces) by the number of pounds of cured leaves (25 pounds 7 ounces), that it required 9 pounds Ij ounces of green plants to produce one pound of cured leaves ; and shows that the difference in the two lots of green tobacco (8 pounds 6 ounces) was not sufficient to produce a pound of cured leaves ; though, allowing it had been, there is yet a difference of 2 pounds 2 ounces in our favor, or a gain of more than eight per cent in weight over the old method of curing. Any ftirmer can easily make a similar test and satisfy himself as to the truth of this statement. In making an experiment of this kind, if you cure by artificial heat, and both lots in one barn at the same time, do not forget to remove that on the Hangers after it is cured, instead of allowiug it to remain while the stalks of the other lot are curing. 24 TESTIMONIALS FROM PROMINENT TOBACCO GROWERS. Marshall, Madison Co., N.C, November G, 1875. E. J. Aston, Esq., Secretary Shelton Tobacco Curing Co., Aslieville, N.C. Dear Sir, — In reply to your request for the result 'of my experi- ence with " The Shelton Tobacco Hanger," I have to say that I have given it a fair trial on three barns of tobacco, and take pleasure in pronouncing it a perfect victory over the old method of curing, for the following reasons : — I can put a crop into the barns in less time, in better order, and at much less expense, than in the old way. I can cure at least twice as much in a barn with much less time, labor and fuel. When cured, the stripping is done, and much less time and labor is required to sort it. There is also less danger of its " running." In curing with the Hangers the labor is so light that women and children can perform it.. Tobacco cured on the Hangers is finer in quality and more uniform in color than that cured on the stalk. Not a leaf is lost by your process ; but one leaf dropped from the Hanger in my three barns while curing ; and the absence of stalks and litter around the barns and fields makes as marked a difference to the e3^e as that of tidy and slovenly housekeeping. I may also add, that it would have Ijeen impossible for me to have saved m}^ crop this season with my present supply of barns, without the use of the " Shelton Hangers." Yours trul}', T. J. ROLLINS. Danville, Va., November 2, 1875. E. J. Aston, Secretary Shelton Tobacco Caring Co. Dear Sir, — In reply to your inquiries in regard to the " Shelton Tobacco Hanger," I will say, that I have tried it practically^, and am entirely satisfied that it is a useful invention. I intend to use it more extensively in future. Very respectfully, W. T. SUTHERLIN. 25 HousTONviLLE, Iredell Co., N.C, November 27, 1875. Mr, E. J. Aston, Aslieville N.C. Dear Sir, — Your letter is at liand. In answer, I will say, I did not succeed in getting my wire in time to give the " Hanger" as fair a trial as I wished, I tried one barn only, but am satisfied it is a great improvement on the old way of curing tobacco, the time being so much shorter in curing the leaf alone. The economy in coal is also an item to the tobacco growlers. From my experience this year, I shall follow 'it up. My neighbors are pleased with what has been tried. Yours respectfully, JOHN H, DALTON. [From one who contended that tobacco would lose in weigJit when cured off the stalk,] Pea Ridge, Tennessee, November 29, 1875. Mr, E. J, Aston. Dear Sir, — I tried the Hanger on a small scale, and only with a view of testing the weight. I took 172 pounds of green tobacco, of uniform quality, cut in the usual way, and Aveighed off 86 pounds, and stripped off' the leaves and put up in your way. The other half I hung up in the old Avny, After stripping the cured tobacco I weighed each separately, and cannot perceive the least ditference iii weight. I am therefore prepared to say that there is no loss by reason of the leaves being stripped off while green. Yours, &c,, M. E, WILCOX. Riverside, Buncombe Co., N.C, November 23, 1875. E. J. Aston, Esq., Sec. S. T. C. Co. 1 take pleasure in complying with your request for a detailed statement of my experience w^ith the " Shelton Tobacco Hangers." I cured the whole crop of about fort^^-four acres on the Hangers with a force of four men and eleven women and children, who put it on the 26 Hangers and cured it in sixteen working da3^s. It cost for labor $153.47. I used in curing about one tliirdof the charcoal that would have been required the old way. I cured 1150 Hangers in one 16-foot barn (six tiers in the bod}^), the tobacco on each Hanger weighing two and one half pounds, mak- ing 2875 pounds of net tobacco, which was cured in three days with 150 bushels of coal. The tobacco is cured bright and of splendid body. In fact the crop is the finest I ever made. After a day's experience a brisk hand can string one hundred sticks, which will make two hundred and fifty pounds net cured tobacco. There is no doubt in my mind of the absolute success of this invention, as it adds to the weight, cures the tobacco neater and brighter, and at half the expense. Very respectfully', C. H. SORRELS. Salisbury Fair, October 24, 1875. This is to certify that I have used the " Shelton Tobacco Hanger " with perfect success. I fully endorse it for all the inventor claims. PHILLIP SOMERS. Berea, Granville Co., N.C., Dec. 4, 1875. Mr. S. C. Shelton, AsheviUe, N.C. Dear Sir, — I used your Patent Tobacco Hanger in curing one barn of primings, and succeeded far beyond my expectations. I think it is a very good invention for curing tobacco uniformly bright I realized $10.00 per cwt. for primings, whicli, had they been cured in the usual way, would not have brought more than $2.50 or $3.00 per cwt. Very respectfully, WESLEY S. LYON. Our Hanger received a diploma at the Agricultural Fair lately held in Salisbury, N.C. At the Virginia State Fair, held at Richmond, our application was received too late to allow of its being regularly entered, but the Committee kindl}' gave us permission and space to exhibit it, and from the Examining Committee we received honorable 27 mention of its merits; which was all that could be given under the circumstances. FARM RIGHTS. Farm rights, authorizing the holder to use one thousand Hangers (or less), for a single year, $5.00, and $2.50 for each additional thou- sand. These rights or licenses can be obtained from any of our au- thorized agents, or on application, by mail or otherwise, to the Sec- retary of the Company. Remit money by draft, monej'^ order or registered letter. No license genuine unless signed by the President and Secretary of the Company, and countersigned by the agent who issues it. WIRE. We recommend the use of No. 17 galvanized wire in making the Hangers, as this size seems most suitable, and the galvanizing pre- vents it from rusting. The cost of this will be about $5.00 per thousand sticks. If the wire should vary one or two sizes from that recommended, it will make no material difference. In procuring your license, either from the Company or any of its agents, you will re- ceive information of the nearest or most convenient point for pur- chasing wire. AGENTS. Responsible agents are wanted in each county to introduce our Patent Hanger, with whom liberal arrangements will be made. For particulars, address SHELTON TOBACCO CURING CO., ASHEVILLE, N.C. LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 000 915 024 9