V 
 
 ' A *- v** .*^\ \/ .-ate-- xs S* 
 
 c o* -•■•- *- 
 
 , . . y v % °I5#" /\ \w : ♦♦*% : * 
 
 \° <^ _& * '■'•■%• ^ A^ ^^ 
 
 
 ^ ^ V n^SMjlf^Lo ^n S}S *'f 
 
 >-^s^\ l WWs /\ z W?s Jx 'I 
 
 *° s .. V*-^' ^ °* ^- A° 
 
h. 3L 
 
 
 
 . 
 
 
 
 
 ' 
 
 ' 
 
 
 -• 
 
 . 
 
 
 '■ 
 
 
 agbfadauDo 
 
 ■ 
 
 
 - 
 
 l 
 
 ■isA. 
 
 ? 9 ? 
 
 . 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 V^ 
 
 ■"nxrcTaUsa 
 
 . 
 
 * 
 
 - 
 
 THOlif 
 
 It 
 
 KM 
 
 H a 
 
 
.' 
 
 ^C ?', 
 
 a. i 
 
 
 ■ 
 
 
 # 
 
 . 
 
 CS5 
 
 4 
 
 - 
 
 
 * roiu 
 
 7+3 
 
 # 
 
 
 
 
 
 <r 
 
 
 \ 
 
 
 .:. 
 
 ■■ 
 
 flJLsiv' ' ^Rochester ©._, r.t-?^^ ot> 
 
 ■pO v on te rourp- ..-• ?Kam 
 
 Maidstoneo.. ^~* ..-O" ."•. 
 
 Chariil^ 
 
 Ashf or d o ■ ■ . . ^"^uo 
 
 f& Hastings 
 
BICYCLE TOUR 
 
 IN 
 
 ENGLAND AND WALES. 
 
 MADE IN 1879, BY THE PRESIDENT, ALFRED D. CHANDLER, AND 
 
 CAPTAIN, JOHN C. SHARP, JR., OF THE SUFFOLK 
 
 BICYCLE CLUB, OF BOSTON, MASS. 
 
 WITH 
 
 AN APPENDIX 
 
 GIVING INFORMATION ON THE USE OF THE BICYCLE, BOTH IN 
 EUROPE AND THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 §Jso dfonr Ulsgs anb l>£&mi«tt Illustrations. 
 
 BOSTON: 
 
 A. WILLIAMS & CO., 283 WASHINGTON STREET. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 CROSBY LOCKWOOD & CO., 
 
 7 Stationer's hall Court, Ludgate Hill, E. C. 
 
 I88l. 
 
 / - 
 
 qr { JUN 13 
 
 No.. 
 
 
THE LIBRARY 
 OF CONGRESS 
 
 WASHINGTON 
 
 Copyright, z88r, 
 By Alfred D. Chandler. 
 
 
 University Press: 
 John Wilson and Son, Cambridge. 
 
This account of a bicycle tour in England 
 was written only after repeated requests, and 
 .first appeared in four numbers of the " Bicy- 
 cling World," published in Boston, January 14 
 and 21, and February 4 and 18, .1881. In 1879 
 the author went to continental Europe on busi- 
 ness, and was accompanied by a friend as far as 
 London. Having completed the business, there 
 happened to be a month before the steamer 
 sailed on which the home-passage had been 
 secured. Availing himself of this, the author 
 returned to London, and, with his friend, made 
 the tour described. 
 
 An Appendix has been added giving informa- 
 tion on bicycle touring in continental Europe, 
 together with facts, but little known in America, 
 on the extraordinary bicycle feats performed 
 abroad and the remarkable progress and popu- 
 larity of the machine, with an article especially 
 devoted to the use of the bicycle as an invaluable 
 hygienic agent. 
 
 Boston, May 23, 1881. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 TOUR OF ENGLAND AND WALES. 
 
 I. 
 
 London to Maidstone, Charing, Canterbury, Mar- 
 gate, Dover, Folkstone, Hastings, Brighton, 
 Arundel, Chichester, and Portsmouth ... 7 
 
 II. 
 
 Portsmouth, Isle of Wight, Salisbury, Stone- 
 henge, Pewsey, Hungerford, Newbury, Read- 
 ing, and London 33 
 
 III. 
 
 London to Reading, Wallingford, Oxford, Wood- 
 stock, Banbury, Stratford-upon-Avon, Warwick, 
 Kenilworth, Coventry, Tamworth, and Burton- 
 on-Trent 52 
 
 IV. 
 
 Burton-on-Trent to Derby, Matlock Bath, Had- 
 don Hall, Chatsworth, Chesterfield, Hardwick 
 Hall, Sheffield, Doncaster, Thorne, Selby, 
 York, Tadcaster, Leeds, Manchester, Chester, 
 Northern Wales, and return to London . . 71 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 Page 
 
 I. Practical Bicycling Advice . . . . 109 
 
 II. Hints on Continental Touring . . . 118 
 
 III. Increase of Bicycle Riding .... 130 
 
 IV. Table of the Fastest Times by English 
 
 Professionals 131 
 
 V. Table of the Fastest Times by English 
 
 Amateurs 132 
 
 VI. Road Riding. Long Distances in 24 
 
 hours. With Table 133 
 
 VII. Bicycle Riding in the United States . 138 
 
 VIII. Is Bicycle Riding Healthy ? .... 140 
 
 IX. Where Bicycles may be obtained in the 
 
 United States 152 
 
 X. Maps 161 
 
 Index 163 
 
ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 ALBERTYPES BY THE FORBES COMPANY OF BOSTON. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 I. Canterbury Cathedral 7 
 
 II. Road Scene, Bonchurch, Isle of Wight 15 
 
 III. Carisbrooke Castle 21 
 
 IV. Stonehenge 28 
 
 V. Salisbury Cathedral Spire .... 28 
 
 VI. Banbury Cross 36 
 
 VII. Kenil worth. Castle 44 
 
 VIII. Chatsworth 52 
 
 IX. Peacock Inn 60 
 
 X. Warwick Castle 60 
 
 XL Haddon Hall 68 
 
 XII. Scene at an English Race-Course . . 73 
 
 (From Frith's celebrated painting in the National Gallery, 
 London). 
 
 XIII. York Cathedral 80 
 
 XIV. South Stack Lighthouse 86 
 
 XV. Rocks at South Stack 93 
 
 XVI. Conway Castle 99 
 
 XVII. Carnarvon Castle 106 
 
MAPS. 
 
 I. Skeleton Map of England, showing Route of 
 Tour. 
 
 II. Road Map of Southern England, reduced from 
 the Ordnance Survey, — Counties of Kent, 
 Surrey, Sussex, and parts of Essex, Middle- 
 sex, Buckingham, and Berkshire. 
 
 III. Same. Counties of Hampshire (Isle of Wight), 
 
 Wiltshire, Dorset, Somerset, and parts of 
 Devon, Monmouth, Gloucester, Berkshire, 
 and Oxford. 
 
 IV. Road Map of Eastern Massachusetts. 
 
A BICYCLE TOUR IN ENGLAND 
 AND WALES. 
 
 I. 
 
 In a month we were to return to America. 
 My affairs on the Continent had been ar- 
 ranged, and I had just reached our rooms 
 on Duke Street, St. James, London. My 
 companion had in my absence been coach- 
 ing with Keen, and had covered the track 
 at Lillie Bridge in unusual time. We were 
 both in the mood for it (though I was 
 hardly in form), and we concluded to pass 
 the month before our departure in a bicy- 
 cle tour through England : not a tour cut 
 out with mathematical precision, arranging 
 the precise hour of arrival and departure at 
 
8 A BICYCLE TOUR 
 
 points on a settled route ; but a rambling, 
 free, independent run wherever fancy di- 
 rected, keeping in view, however, such 
 counties as were supposed to offer the 
 best roads, with the finest rural and urban, 
 as well as inland and sea-shore, attractions. 
 If it rained too hard and long, or the wind 
 was too strong, or if we were pressed for 
 time, we were to ride in the cars or on 
 coaches, using our bicycles whenever we 
 pleased ; in fact, we went for enjoyment, — 
 quite ready, however, to rough it if occa- 
 sion required ; and the drenchings we had, 
 the rough roads we passed over, and the 
 sun-burned, hardy look we bore at the 
 end, showed that we took to our sport in 
 earnest. 
 
 As we had neither machines nor a cor- 
 rect knowledge of the country, we exam- 
 ined the stock of bicycles at every good 
 depot in London, and bought several of 
 the excellent bicycle maps sold by Thomas 
 
<J 
 
 .2 t^ 
 
 W o 
 
 4) <! 
 
 -S Pi 
 
IN ENGLAND AND WALES. 9 
 
 Letts, 72 Queen Victoria Street, London, 
 E. C. These maps are reduced from the 
 Ordnance Survey, and are on a scale of 
 four miles to an inch ; they are safe guides ; 
 by them we never lost our way, and could 
 depend almost entirely upon their aid for 
 the selection of our route from day to day. 
 They fold up in cloth covers of a conven- 
 ient size for pocket use. They cover all 
 England and Wales, the entire country 
 being divided into sixteen sections, the 
 section or two needed for immediate use 
 being taken. For machines we were at a 
 loss, though in London ; large as the stock 
 on hand was at various places, yet we could 
 not anywhere hire just what we wanted. 
 At last J. selected a " Club," at Peake's, 
 No. 14 Princes Street, Leicester Square, 
 and from the same establishment I took 
 a " Royal," — a machine just then coming 
 into notice, and so named because specially 
 produced to fill an order for the Prince of 
 
IO A BICYCLE TOUR 
 
 Wales's son. The charge for these ma- 
 chines was about two pounds each for one 
 month, in advance ; this was more than 
 usual, but as the use of the new machine 
 I engaged would make it second-hand, a 
 little more was asked. J. obtained a small 
 satchel to hang over his shoulder by a 
 strap ; I used a multum in parvo bag fast- 
 ened to the rear of the saddle. 
 
 We concluded to make a run through 
 the South of England for the first ten 
 days, returning to our rooms in London 
 for a change of clothing, for letters, etc., 
 and then to try Central England and North 
 Wales, returning to headquarters by rail 
 once a week, till our final return with the 
 machines before sailing. As we were never 
 more than a few hours by rail from Lon- 
 don, even when as far north as Yorkshire, 
 this plan was easily carried out. Our dress 
 was such as we use here in America, with 
 stockings, underclothing, night-shirt, hand- 
 
IN ENGLAND AND WALES. II 
 
 kerchiefs, and sundry other articles, in our 
 travelling-bags. The map sections we used, 
 including Southern and Central England 
 and North Wales, were numbers 5, 8, 9, 
 11, 13, and 14, or as they are sometimes 
 labelled, letters C, E, F, I, L, and M. 
 
 On Tuesday, the 19th of August, 1879, 
 we left Charing Cross by rail for Stroud, 
 near Rochester, in Kent. This was to get 
 well away from London for the start ; 
 though the run from London to Roches- 
 ter, and beyond to Margate at the eastern 
 extremity of Kent, is often made on bicy- 
 cles in a day. As a rule we found the 
 railway officials very obliging about our 
 bicycles ; the machines were either put into 
 one of those very narrow luggage compart- 
 ments, where two bicycles just fit in side 
 by side, or they were placed with ordinary 
 luggage, but always carefully handled. All 
 over England a charge for the carriage of 
 bicycles is made by the railroads, varying 
 
12 A BICYCLE TOUR 
 
 with the distance. The rates were then : 
 under 12 miles, is. ; under 25 miles, is. 6d.\ 
 under 50 miles, 2s. ; under 75 miles, 3^. ; 
 under 100, 4s.; and is. for every additional 
 50 miles, — provided a passenger accom- 
 panies the bicycle, otherwise double these 
 rates are charged. Here is a copy of a 
 receipt not collected, given by the London 
 and North Western Railway. The receipt, 
 like a check in this country, is usually taken 
 up when you claim the machine. 
 
 LONDON AND NORTH WESTERN RAILWAY. 
 
 (314) JEXCESS LUGGAGE. 
 
 No. 10069 s &' *5> l8 79- 
 
 CHESTER to BIRMINGHAM. 
 
 Name Passenger. 
 
 Total weight lbs. 
 
 Pass rs - allowed 2 Bicycles. 
 
 Weight charged lbs. at ,£0 6s. 
 
 Clerk. 
 
IN ENGLAND AND WALES. 1 3 
 
 Mounting at the Stroud station, we rode 
 across the Medway River bridge to Roches- 
 ter, and then turned south for Maidstone. 
 This is near the heart of Kent, famous for 
 its hops, and during the season of 1879 — 
 which was very wet — one of the most suc- 
 cessful counties in all England for crops. 
 Just out of Rochester is a hill which we 
 had to walk up, and from which we had a 
 view of Chatham, one of England's great 
 naval stations. From the hill-top it was 
 fair riding all the way to Maidstone. When 
 about five miles out we began a long de- 
 scent to the valley of the river Medway, hav- 
 ing a fine view over the fields to Aylesford 
 and the river. We dismounted, when part 
 way down, to walk a few steps to " Kit's 
 Cotty House," a singular Druidical ruin of 
 huge stones, standing close by in a quite 
 unaccountable way. J. commenced his 
 sketches here, and before our trip was 
 over he had two books full of ruins, land- 
 
14 A BICYCLE TOUR 
 
 scapes, castles, and the like. Such an ac- 
 complishment is a great source of pleasure, 
 and on a trip of this kind one has constant 
 opportunities to exercise and enjoy it. 
 
 We rode under the arch of the Oueen's 
 Head Hotel, in Maidstone, at about noon, 
 and stopped there to dine in the coffee- 
 room. This was the beginning of our ex- 
 perience with English hotels and inns, on 
 this tour. How familiar we became with 
 them, and how much we enjoyed, all that 
 they offer for enjoyment ! While discuss- 
 ing the merits of a sweet omelette, the rain 
 began to fall, and without much delay we 
 started for Charing by the way of Harriet- 
 sham and Lenham. On that day we had 
 " to catch it " on all sides. I found that 
 the cranks of my machine were so much 
 shorter than those I was accustomed to, 
 that it was quite hard to get along, particu- 
 larly as I was not in training. But I per- 
 severed, and ever since my English tour 
 
H 
 
 W 
 
 O 
 
 to 
 o 
 
 w 
 1-1 
 
 S w 
 
 tr ^ 
 
 ffi < 
 
 o Ph 
 
 o 
 
 m 
 
 w 
 z 
 w 
 o 
 
 CO 
 
 p 
 < 
 o 
 
IN ENGLAND AND WALES. 1 5 
 
 have used shorter cranks, and Can now 
 ride almost any hill about Boston with as 
 much ease as formerly with long cranks. 
 Short cranks appeared to be the rule in 
 England, unless over very rough or very 
 hilly roads. 
 
 J. now had a mishap within a hundred 
 feet of the inn. The rain made the road- 
 bed very slippery. The soil of the roads 
 throughout a large part of England is 
 oolite, or limestone, and, when wet, is 
 treacherous. I well-nigh lost my balance 
 before discovering what a surface we were 
 riding over, and called to J. to take care ; 
 but it was too late, and down he came, 
 bending his bicycle crank out of shape. 
 In less than half an hour a blacksmith 
 hard by had the crank in order. The 
 charge was but a shilling, and I was sur- 
 prised at his skill as a workman. My turn 
 for a tumble on slippery roads came later 
 on in Derbyshire. On we then went with 
 
1 6 A BICYCLE TOUR 
 
 great care, growing bolder as we became 
 wetter. It poured so hard that at last we 
 took shelter under some oak-trees. Two 
 Englishmen in waterproofs drove by in a 
 dog-cart, and smiled at us compassionately. 
 We rallied each other at the series of inci- 
 dents that in the last hour seemed to dis- 
 pel the poetry of bicycling in England. 
 However, we soon mounted and pressed 
 on, stopping again at a little wayside inn, 
 till the rain fell less, when we rode through 
 to Charing, arriving at the Swan at half 
 past six, after a ride of twenty-one miles 
 from Rochester ; the first part pleasant and 
 interesting, the last part hard and nasty. 
 
 I cannot forget the courtesy and kind- 
 ness shown us at the Swan, kept, as we 
 had been told, by " a good family from 
 London." Our wet clothes and shoes were 
 nicely dried, our machines cleaned, and 
 every comfort thoughtfully provided. It 
 was as if we were at home, and this is the 
 
IN ENGLAND AND WALES. 1 7 
 
 charm of a good English inn. Before leav- 
 ing London I had made out a list of inns 
 and commercial houses along our route, 
 taken from various guide and bicycle 
 books ; but we had often to depend rather 
 on information obtained from persons met 
 as we entered a town or city. We were 
 rarely misled, — our greatest mistake being 
 at Burton-on-Trent, in Staffordshire ; but 
 that was soon corrected. 
 
 The next morning we left Charing, in 
 a light rain, for famous old Canterbury. 
 After climbing the hill near the inn, the 
 route was undulating on to the valley of 
 the river Stour, down which we rode, soon 
 reaching Canterbury, w 7 here we stopped at 
 the Falstaff, though we afterwards found 
 the Rose was better. Of course the cathe- 
 dral was the great attraction at Canterbury, 
 and we devoted all our spare time to it. 
 About four o'clock in the afternoon, as the 
 weather improved, we rode on towards the 
 
I& A BICYCLE TOUR 
 
 northeast, over a good road, and in two 
 hours arrived at the White Hart, in Mar- 
 gate, after a day's run of thirty miles, in- 
 cluding several hours' stay at Canterbury 
 to examine the cathedral. That part of 
 Kent called the Isle of Thanet suggested 
 our western prairies in miniature. Margate 
 was full of people, it being midsummer, and 
 the town thronged with visitors, though of 
 a different class from those met at Hast- 
 ings or Brighton. Here I first used the 
 public baths so common in England; and, 
 though we passed through many an Eng- 
 lish watering-place, I always found it more 
 agreeable to bathe in the excellent salt- 
 water bath-houses, or natatoria, than in the 
 sea itself. From the White Hart Hotel we 
 looked over the little harbor which forms the 
 foreground of Turner's painting of Margate. 
 The next morning was fair, and we were 
 off at nine o'clock for the run to Dover, 
 across the Isle of Thanet, leaving Rams- 
 
IN ENGLAND AND WALES. 1 9 
 
 gate on the left, by the shore of Pegwell 
 Bay, and so on through Sandwich and by 
 Deal. We developed enormous appetites, 
 and I recall the immense relief we had on 
 coming up to the little Swing-Gate Inn, 
 three miles or more out from Dover, where 
 we ordered bread, cheese, and beer, about 
 all the inn afforded, and which was served 
 to us on a little balcony over the inn door, 
 where we enjoyed the view over the fields, 
 and were entertained by the arrival of a 
 coach-load of passengers, many of whom 
 got off to drink ; and afterwards by the 
 appearance of a young lady driving with a 
 gentleman in a phaeton, and who appeared 
 to be persons of superior station, the gen- 
 tleman calling from the vehicle for brandy 
 and water, with the request to " let me see 
 the brandy before you put the water in." 
 The whole was but another illustration of 
 the constant proofs we saw of England's 
 " national vice." 
 
20 A BICYCLE TOUR 
 
 From Swing-Gate Inn to Dover was the 
 most extraordinary bit of road we had met 
 with. The mud, a whitish compound of 
 limestone and water, was so deep that we 
 were forced to dismount and walk on a 
 ridge by the fence at one side for a long 
 way; it was with difficulty that vehicles 
 were dragged through. For such neglect 
 of a road a New England town might be 
 indicted ; but before our tour was over we 
 found that English roads are by no means 
 as fine as popularly supposed. Not only 
 in Kent, but in Oxfordshire, Yorkshire, and 
 elsewhere, we passed over miles of execra- 
 ble roads, on which, if we kept in the saddle, 
 we suffered from side-ache and could ride 
 only by great exertion and skill, and where, 
 indeed, we often had to dismount and walk. 
 Yet it is true that for touring on bicycles 
 England offers facilities such as can by no 
 means be obtained generally in New Eng- 
 land ; and for many a score of miles have 
 
CAR1SBROOKE CASTLE, ISLE OF WIGHT, 
 upposed to have been founded before the Roman invasion The prison of Charles I. m 1647- 
 
 (Page 37.) 
 
IN ENGLAND AND WALES. 21 
 
 we ridden over superb English roads, pass- 
 ing mile-stone after mile-stone quickly and 
 easily. 
 
 The descent into Dover by the castle is 
 dangerous ; it is not safe to ride down ; 
 many even get out of their carriages and 
 walk. Before descending we stopped of 
 course at Dover Castle, and then, after 
 bathing at the natatorium in the town 
 below, and watching a tremendous thun- 
 der-storm, which flooded the streets, we 
 passed the night at the Lord Warden 
 Hotel by the pier. 
 
 From Dover to Folkstone is all up-hill, 
 excepting the last mile, which is so dan- 
 gerously precipitous that the Dover Bicy- 
 cle Club have a painted notice, or " Danger 
 Board," placed conspicuously at the top, 
 worded as follows : — 
 
 "CAUTION TO BICYCLISTS. 
 " It is dangerous to ride down this hill. 
 
 " Dover Bicycle Club. 
 "May, 1878. VV. Fletcher, Captain." 
 
2 2 A BICYCLE TOUR 
 
 It seems that this idea of putting up 
 danger boards originated with Captain 
 Jawlette, of the Dover Bicycle Club, and 
 has since been carried out generally in 
 England. 
 
 I asked the proprietor of a little bar at 
 the hill-top what the favorite drink of the 
 bicycle riders was, and he answered, " Soda 
 and milk " ; adding, that sometimes thirty 
 or forty riders passed there in a day, most 
 of them moving toward Dover to take ad- 
 vantage of the four-mile coast and of the 
 prevaiKng southwest wind. We found that 
 this southwest wind was a power ; it seemed 
 to be the prevailing wind all over England 
 at that season, so much so that on com- 
 pleting our tour of the Isle of Wight we 
 no longer struggled against it, but stood 
 away for the north, and ran all the way up 
 into Yorkshire with the wind on our backs 
 for about three hundred miles. In arrang- 
 ing an English tour it is perhaps well to 
 
IN ENGLAND AND WALES. 23 
 
 regard this wind, and try to move generally 
 from south to north or from west to east, 
 rather than the other way. It is said that 
 when young Appleyard made his wonder- 
 ful ride from Bath to London (ioo miles 
 in 7 hours, iS minutes, and 55 seconds), he 
 had this wind blowing almost a gale behind 
 him. As for the soda and milk, I found 
 that it had staying qualities, without the 
 heaviness of bitter beer or ale. Soda is 
 sold everywhere in England in small bot- 
 tles ; and I well remember how satisfactory 
 was the mixture of this that a young gen- 
 tleman from Dorsetshire prepared, as we 
 were about to part after a swift fourteen- 
 mile run side by side out of Chichester. 
 
 After leaving Folkstone. the next place 
 of special interest was Hastings, in Sus 
 where I saw the Duke and Duchess of 
 Edinburgh for a few moments. They were 
 travelling in a special train, which stopped 
 at the station. Their car was arranged in 
 
24 A BICYCLE TOUR 
 
 part like an American drawing-room car. 
 The Duke appeared at an open window, 
 returned the recognition of those observ- 
 ing, and conversed with some one await- 
 ing him. The ladies of the party remained 
 seated in full view through the large win- 
 dows. A few quiet directions, a careful 
 examination of the wheels, and the train 
 moved away as quietly as it had ap- 
 proached. Even those who examined the 
 grease-boxes were dressed in neat uni- 
 forms ; and the locomotive, with its im- 
 mense driving-wheels, the cars, — indeed, 
 the entire train with its occupants, — made 
 an interesting study of English railroad 
 travelling at its best. A few days later, at 
 the Isle of Wight, the Queen crossed in the 
 royal yacht to Gosport, and took a special 
 train through to Balmoral, or rather Balla- 
 ter, Aberdeenshire, Scotland, a ride of about 
 six hundred miles. The expense to royalty 
 for special railroad service seems great; for 
 
IN ENGLAND AND WALES. 25 
 
 I have read that the cost to the Queen is 
 ,£8,000, or about $40,000 a year. 
 
 After Hastings was Brighton, the famous 
 watering-place, where we stopped at the Old 
 Ship Hotel, facing the sea; but it rained 
 so violently that we soon longed to be off. 
 We went about enough to get a distinct 
 idea of Brighton externally, but we were 
 growing to like the country more than the 
 town. I enjoyed the swimming-bath there, 
 and had the novelty of floating about while 
 I tried to interpret the Greek and Latin 
 inscriptions which encircled the interior. 
 At noon we rode on through the rain to 
 New Shoreham, stopping there to lunch. 
 In the coffee-room of the inn were several 
 scrap-books filled w T ith entertaining novel- 
 ties. From there our ride to Arundel was 
 through mud and water with flooded roads ; 
 but the beauty of Arundel checked us. Our 
 dinner at the Norfolk Hotel was relished, 
 and we stopped there for the night. While 
 
26 A BICYCLE TOUR 
 
 at dinner, there was a noisy demonstration 
 without, and we were told that a travelling 
 circus was announcing its exhibition for 
 that evening, so to the circus we went; but 
 I hope the Duke of Norfolk will provide 
 a better place for such exhibitions in his 
 neighborhood hereafter. There was a mot- 
 ley throng in attendance, with a few re- 
 served seats where some persons of quality 
 sat with us, watching the performance with 
 but little emotion. The ground in the ring 
 was soon a mass of sticky mud, the tent 
 being pitched in a field soaked with the 
 recent rains. The poor performers were 
 unable to get about with ease, save where 
 carpets were spread. The principal feat- 
 ures of the circus were advertised as Ameri- 
 can. We came away before the crowd left, 
 and had to stumble across the soggy field 
 and grope in the dark to the highway 
 leading: to the town. 
 
 The old and new castle of the Duke of 
 
IN ENGLAND AND WALES. 27 
 
 Norfolk are close to the hotel, and there 
 can here be seen one of the most splendid 
 baronial mansions in England ; the castle 
 dating back nearly two hundred years be- 
 fore the Norman conquest, and enjoying 
 the peculiar privilege of conferring the 
 dignity of earl on its possessor, without 
 any patent or creation from the crown, — 
 a privilege not enjoyed, it seems, by any 
 other place in the kingdom. 
 
 On Sunday, the 24th of August, at ten 
 in the morning, we left picturesque Arun- 
 del. It was a fine day ; the road was very 
 good. We were to run to Portsmouth, 
 stopping some time at ancient Chichester, 
 and were congratulating ourselves on the 
 fair weather and an easy, peaceful run after 
 the storms of the past ; but when just south 
 of Slindon Park, five miles out, J.'s machine 
 snapped in two where the backbone joins 
 the head, and became useless. Our bicycle 
 map showed that the nearest railway station 
 
28 A BICYCLE TOUR 
 
 was Barnham Junction, two miles south. In 
 a few moments I had ridden there and re- 
 turned with word that a Sunday train went 
 up to London that afternoon ; and London 
 was only about fifty miles away. We at 
 once arranged that J. should go up to Lon- 
 don, replace his broken machine, and meet 
 me at Portsmouth the next day. This he 
 did, getting another bicycle at Peake's and 
 joining me at the George in Portsmouth, 
 where I had telegraphed to him my arrival 
 the day before. I mention this especially 
 to show how such an accident can be man- 
 aged in England, where, from almost any 
 county, either London or Coventry (the 
 headquarters for bicycles) may be reached 
 in a few hours or less, and a return made 
 as quickly. " 
 
 It was unnecessary for me to go to Lon- 
 don too, so I rode on to Chichester, where 
 I was surprised at the beautiful octagonal 
 cross, fifty feet high, at the junction of four 
 
STONEHENGE, DRUIDICAL RUINS, HAMPSHIRE. 
 (Page 42.) 
 
 SALISBURY CATHEDRAL, HAMPSHIRE. 
 
 Begun in 1220. Spire finished a century later. 
 (Page 41.) 
 
IN ENGLAND AND WALES. 2Q, 
 
 roads, one of the finest structures of the 
 kind in Great Britain. 
 
 My dinner that day was a solitary affair 
 without J. I had sole possession of the 
 coffee-room, and was at liberty to appro- 
 priate the entire copy of the " Times," in- 
 stead of a fractional part, as the custom is. 
 My reading had but commenced, when a 
 slight though muscular young gentleman 
 entered the room in bicycle dress, and or- 
 dered his dinner. In a few moments we 
 became acquainted. It seemed that he 
 was returning after a week's holiday on 
 his bicycle through the South of Eng- 
 land. He had ridden about forty miles 
 that morning, and had about sixty more 
 to do that afternoon and evening before 
 reaching his home. This would be about 
 one hundred miles for the day's run, of 
 which he made light. He expected to 
 reach home quite late, his route being to 
 Southampton, thence across the New For- 
 
30 A BICYCLE TOUR 
 
 est (using a lantern), and so to Wimborne- 
 Minster in Dorset. I asked him whether 
 he had any scruples about riding on Sun- 
 day. He said he had not; that riding on 
 Sunday in England was customary, and 
 that his father was a clergyman who had 
 accomplished his sixty miles a day on a 
 tricycle. Later on in our trip, when at 
 Warwick, we met a clergyman and his 
 son who were " doing " England on tricy- 
 cles at the rate of forty miles and more a 
 day, his son being only about fourteen 
 years of age. I rode with them part way 
 to Kenil worth Castle, and observed the 
 respect with which they were treated on 
 the road, every one recognizing the clergy- 
 man by his cloth. They were sun-burned 
 and well ; and by using tricycles carried 
 with them plenty of clothes, umbrellas, and 
 articles a bicycle rider dispenses with. 
 
 My route from Chichester to Ports- 
 mouth was that of my new acquaintance 
 
IN ENGLAND AND WALES. 3 1 
 
 as far as Co sham in Hampshire ; so we 
 rolled along together over a very fine road, 
 conversing as we went. It was a delightful 
 ride ; my companion was very pleasant. 
 After passing Havant, he pointed out the 
 batteries at the north side of the road, 
 which, though five miles or more from 
 the sea, were, as I understood, heavy 
 enough to throw shot over Portsmouth in- 
 to Spithead beyond. At Cosham I turned 
 to run into Portsmouth, four miles to the 
 south, while my companion kept on to the 
 west, and I hope reached his long journey's 
 end in safety that night. 
 
 Our time for the entire trip was limited 
 to one month. This was not enough. 
 We were often obliged to hurry on, when 
 a longer stay would have been as instruc- 
 tive as pleasant. One can spend a month 
 in almost any of England's forty counties 
 with profit and pleasure, and to allow but 
 a month for all is insufficient. But we 
 
32 A BICYCLE TOUR 
 
 travelled as far as we could in the time, 
 on bicycles, on foot, on coaches, and in the 
 cars, and the aggregate of our English and 
 Welsh travel was about seventeen hundred 
 miles, the route for only a portion of which 
 is shown on the map accompanying this 
 account ; several long rides in the cars, 
 our ride on the coach to Windsor Castle, 
 and other trips, being omitted as not strict- 
 ly pertaining to this bicycle tour. 
 
IN ENGLAND AND WALES. 2)3 
 
 II. 
 
 I am no longer one of those who sup- 
 pose that on a bicycle tour the uppermost 
 thought must be to accomplish the great- 
 est possible distance each day, that the 
 average may run up into the fifties or 
 eighties, and the total be large. This de- 
 lusion seizes upon almost every rider of 
 spirit at first ; but it will be found that 
 more comfort, enjoyment, and knowledge 
 are had if distance is made a secondary 
 consideration, unless one cares only to fly 
 through a country without time for obser- 
 vation or reflection, in which case he will 
 be apt to have but a very stupid passage. 
 
 Portsmouth is a point of departure for 
 the Isle of Wight. But there is so much 
 of interest to be seen in and around Ports- 
 mouth itself, especially of a naval and mili- 
 
 3 
 
34 A BICYCLE TOUR 
 
 tary kind, that one can afford a day or two 
 less for the Isle of Wight to study the 
 sterner subjects war and self-defence have 
 developed in this, the chief naval arsenal 
 and the most perfect fortress in Great 
 Britain. 
 
 The weather holding fair, and J. not 
 having come down from London, I en- 
 gaged a sailor to row me out to H. M. S. 
 " Victory," one hundred and five years old 
 (on which Nelson fell in action seventy- 
 five years ago), and to other objects of in- 
 terest in the harbor. It was at the time 
 when England was touched by the mur- 
 der of young Louis Napoleon. The huge 
 steam transport for troops, which brought 
 back Captain Cary from the Cape, had 
 just arrived in Portsmouth. Cary's part 
 in the affair with the Zulus and the death 
 of young Louis were the common talk. 
 Of all the remarks I heard on this, that 
 of the bluff old sailor impressed me the 
 
IN ENGLAND AND WALES. 35 
 
 most, when, regretting the death of Louis, 
 he said : " But better that one mother's 
 son should die than a thousand." For 
 had the French Prince Imperial lived, the 
 sailor feared that he would have caused 
 another of the sickening wars which Eu- 
 rope periodically endures. I could not but 
 contrast the aversion this old British tar 
 had for war, with the zeal shown by the 
 young Prussian soldiers I had, a fortnight 
 before, seen eagerly crowding up with their 
 sweethearts to the great battle paintings in 
 the National Gallery in Berlin. 
 
 In the " Bicycling World " of November 
 12, 1880, is an interesting account of a 
 trip to the Isle of Wight by " London 
 W." His party landed at Cowes, and 
 made a thirty-five mile run by Newport, 
 Carisbrooke Castle, Blackgang, Ventnor, 
 Shanklin, and Ryde. Our trip was quite 
 different, for we left our bicycles at Ports- 
 mouth, crossed to Ryde by steamer, and 
 
36 A BICYCLE TOUR 
 
 took seats on top of the four-in-hand there 
 for Sandown, the coach stopping a quarter 
 of an hour or more on the way to let pas- 
 sengers walk about at points of interest. 
 At Sandown we left the coach and went 
 on foot along the cliffs by Sandown Bay 
 to Shanklin, where we lunched in a cosey 
 little coffee-room, and then walked down 
 into Shanklin Chine, across the fields, and 
 so on by the rugged path of the Under-cliff 
 into Bonchurch and Ventnor, where we 
 climbed a hill several hundred feet high, 
 just by the station, and enjoyed the rare 
 scene around and below. The weather was 
 exceptionally fine. The route we took was 
 impassable for bicycles, and one has hardly 
 seen the Isle of Wight unless he has tak- 
 en this walk. I regret that we could not 
 have seen more of the Under-cliff toward 
 the west, but we found it prudent to go 
 from Ventnor by rail to Newport, where 
 we passed the night at the Bugle, first 
 
w 
 
 K 
 tn 
 
 Q 
 & 
 O — 
 
 X ^ 
 o ^ 
 
 q o 
 u ^ 
 
 cq 
 
 <J 
 pq 
 
IN ENGLAND AND WALES. ^>7 
 
 walking out a mile to Carisbrooke Castle, 
 where J. was busily engaged till dark in 
 sketching, while I climbed in great delight 
 all over the old walls ; indeed, soon after 
 breakfast the next morning we went again 
 to the castle, after which we saw what is 
 left of the fine Roman villa near by, with 
 its tessellated floors, which is older than 
 Carisbrooke, and in its way, perhaps, a 
 subject for as much reflection. 
 
 Those parts of the Isle of Wight which 
 form its distinctive features are to be ex- 
 plored on foot. Some portions of the 
 interior, to be sure, afford fair riding on a 
 bicycle ; but it is the south and southeast 
 shores that give the isle its character, and 
 to enjoy these in freedom one should be 
 on foot. 
 
 Returning to Portsmouth, we spent an- 
 other night at the George, a heavy rain- 
 storm having set in. If any suppose that 
 life at English hotels, or even inns, is uni- 
 
2,8 A BICYCLE TOUR 
 
 formly satisfactory, they mistake. As with 
 English roads, so with the public-houses : 
 now they are excellent, now the very re- 
 verse. We frequently found that the " best " 
 hotels, commercial houses, and inns were 
 deficient ; and many that travellers seldom 
 hear of were at times superior. In Ports- 
 mouth, for instance, a town with more than 
 one hundred thousand people, the " best " 
 hotel was said to be the George. Now at 
 the George we had rooms which were fair, 
 but the service in the coffee-room was slow 
 to an exasperating degree. I at first thought 
 that the waiter — there was but one for the 
 entire room — deemed bicycle riders un- 
 worthy the usual attention, and for the 
 experiment I doubled the customary fees ; 
 but, finding that useless, then took the fel- 
 low to task, when in a most respectful and 
 apologetic way he explained that the du- 
 ties of the coffee-room were quite beyond 
 the power of a single waiter, and that diffi- 
 
IN ENGLAND AND WALES. 39 
 
 culties. in the kitchen made it impossible 
 for him to serve us more promptly. 
 
 In the evening there occurred what is 
 common in Portsmouth, a hubbub of fifes 
 and drums, with soldiers thronging the 
 main street, some with a single sweetheart, 
 many with two such hanging on their 
 arms. I went to the front door to look 
 on, and an English traveller in middle life 
 stood watching with me. Suddenly he 
 broke into a tirade upon English hotels, 
 declaiming against the service at the 
 George and elsewhere, He said the Eng- 
 lish people did not know what a good 
 hotel was ; that he had enjoyed what he 
 considered the luxury of hotel life in Sa- 
 ratoga and other American cities, and he 
 gave vent to a good English growl on 
 what is the fact, that in many matters 
 England is very far behind the times. I 
 was at first surprised, then revealed my 
 nationality, and sympathized with him. 
 
40 A BICYCLE TOUR 
 
 And so it was : we were often much an- 
 noyed at our inability to have a meal at 
 the desired time, even when ordered long 
 in advance ; and I have more than once 
 arisen very early to repeat an order given 
 the night before for breakfast, to make 
 sure of having it on time, and even then 
 been disappointed, not by a few moments 
 only, but by half an hour and more. When 
 one wishes to take a particular train this is 
 vexatious. On the other hand, promptness, 
 attention, and comfort were the marked 
 characteristics of many of the public- 
 houses we stopped at in England. 
 
 Leaving the south coast, we now com- 
 menced our run to the north, through the 
 very heart of the country ; we scarce ever 
 knew where we were to pass the night, or 
 what was in store for us the next day ; it 
 was a succession of entertaining novelties 
 through some of the finest parts of the 
 kingdom. The first of England's great 
 
IN ENGLAND AND WALES. 4 1 
 
 cathedrals on our route was at Canterbury ; 
 the second was at Salisbury, where we ar- 
 rived at about one o'clock in the afternoon, 
 lunching at the Red Lion. All our spare 
 time at Salisbury was devoted to its unique 
 cathedral, which is Early English of the 
 purest type. The spire is the highest in 
 the land, being four hundred feet, or near- 
 ly twice the height of Bunker Hill monu- 
 ment. Charles Sumner, who saw more of 
 England and English society than any of 
 his countrymen, wrote in 1838 : " My hap- 
 piest moments in this island have been 
 when I saw Salisbury and Durham cathe- 
 drals. Much happiness have I enjoyed in 
 the various distinguished and interesting 
 society in which I have been permitted to 
 mingle ; but greater than all this was that 
 which I felt when I first gazed upon the 
 glorious buildings I have mentioned. . . . 
 It was with a thrill of pleasure that I looked 
 from the spire of Salisbury," etc. 
 
42 A BICYCLE TOUR 
 
 Here J. added to his increasing stock of 
 photographs ; indeed, from time to time, 
 we had either to send or take up to our 
 rooms in London the accumulations of 
 successive purchases in the way of pho- 
 tographs, guide-books, and the like, and 
 sometimes our travelling bags and pockets 
 were stuffed to their utmost capacity. 
 
 From Salisbury we ran that afternoon 
 out to Amesbury, and then two miles west, 
 passing Vespasian's Camp, to Stonehenge, 
 " with its mysterious monuments, Druidical 
 or whatever they may be." There is some- 
 thing incongruous in riding up to those 
 rude and ancient stone ruins on a modern 
 bicycle. We heard the plausible explana- 
 tions given by the old man in attendance, 
 paid for them as usual (for at such places, 
 who in England opens his mouth or moves 
 a step for you without expecting his tip ?), 
 and then, with a last look at the cathedral 
 spire eight miles south, we hurried back to 
 
IN ENGLAND AND WALES. 43 
 
 Amesbury, and turned north for the water- 
 shed of the Thames. Our run was up the 
 pretty valley of the Avon. There are at 
 least three rivers called Avon in England : 
 this one flowed into the English Channel ; 
 we came to a second farther north at Strat- 
 ford. The ride that afternoon was very 
 pleasant. We noticed how soon some Eng- 
 lish roads are dry after a 'hard rain. On 
 we went, with charming glimpses of the 
 little river and the villages dotting its 
 course, till at nightfall we came suddenly 
 into Pewsey, and sprang off at the Phcenix 
 for rest. 
 
 If the Swan at Charing had its special 
 merits, the Phcenix at Pewsey had greater. 
 Here was a good lady with her daughters, 
 who speedily arranged everything for our 
 comfort, and neither J. nor I can soon for- 
 get that hot omelette with which we finally 
 satisfied our appetites. As for my cham- 
 ber, it was complete, and seemed to me the 
 
44 A BICYCLE TOUR 
 
 finest of the kind I had occupied in Eng- 
 land ; the china especially attracting my 
 attention. In the morning we were kindly 
 pressed to stay, and, but for lack of time, 
 might have spent a charming day in and 
 around that little Wiltshire town. But we 
 had a long tour before us, and off we flew 
 to the east, by a circuitous route, riding 
 right through a flock of sheep on the way, 
 and coming out on the Great Bath Road at 
 a point near Froxfleld, just above Hunger- 
 ford. 
 
 This Bath road is the famous racing 
 road for bicycles, the run from Bath to 
 London being a hundred miles (107^ to 
 Hyde Park Corner) ; and the great one- 
 hundred-mile straightaway races have been 
 over this route, the fastest time for the en- 
 tire distance being Mr. Appleyard's, June 
 10, 1878, in 7 hours, 18 minutes, and 55 
 seconds, or nearly 14 miles an hour for the 
 entire time, including stops. Three months 
 
Q 
 
 w 
 
 Xfl 
 
 
 Pi 
 
 n 
 
 
 
 & 
 
 
 ffi 
 
 -i_> 
 
 
 co 
 
 '55 
 
 
 M 
 
 '> 
 
 rr 
 
 U 
 
 T3 
 
 ^o 
 
 
 0) 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 rt 
 
 -t-> 
 
 P^ 
 
 J3 
 
 o 
 
 < 
 
 4} 
 
 IB 
 
 
 £ 
 
 U 
 
 
 
 en 
 
 0) 
 
 
 
 
 w 
 
 £ 
 
 T3 
 
 H 
 
 Q 
 
 OS 
 
 3 
 in 
 
 CO 
 
 N 
 
 £ 
 
 < 
 
 W 
 
 T3 
 
 
 a 
 
 rt 
 
 ffi 
 
 
 " 
 
 H 
 
 5 
 
 g 
 
 C 
 
 
 s 
 
 o 
 
 • — 
 
 
 u 
 
 i-l 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 £ 
 
 
 
IN ENGLAND AND WALES. 45 
 
 later, September 12, 1878, Mr. W. S. Brit- 
 ten rode from London to Bath and back 
 over this road, doing 220 miles in 23 hours 
 54 minutes. 
 
 From Hungerford we rolled along to 
 Newbury, in Berkshire, where we lunched 
 at the Chequers. I replenished my oil- 
 can at a druggist's here ; the charge was a 
 penny, but the man scowled so as I held 
 up the little tin, that I asked what was the 
 matter, when he answered that he was con- 
 stantly called on to fill bicycle oil-cans, and 
 he never could tell when they were full. 
 From Newbury to Reading is seventeen 
 miles, and we bowled along the fine road, 
 covering the distance in an hour and twen- 
 ty minutes, — J. arriving in advance, for 
 he could easily outride me. It was a fine 
 run ; heavy rain-clouds chased us nearly all 
 the way, but we outstripped them. Men, 
 women, and children were seen hard at 
 work gathering in the crops. The season 
 
46 A BICYCLE TOUR 
 
 of 1879 was a very severe one for farmers. 
 We flew through Theale at a racing speed ; 
 and, altogether, our run of forty-two miles 
 from Pewsey was very enjoyable. The 
 day, however, was by no means spent : we 
 stopped an hour or more in Reading; I 
 plunged into the Thames at the bathing- 
 house there, but got out at once, for the 
 water was too chilly for me, though it was 
 August. The constant rains and cold 
 weather kept the temperature of fresh- 
 water streams very low that summer. 
 While crossing the track at the station 
 there was a shout of warning, and we were 
 told to " look sharp," for the Irish mail was 
 coming; just then we heard a whistle, and 
 a moment later the "Irish mail-train tore 
 through the Reading station and rushed 
 on to London at a tremendous speed, the 
 engineer crouching on his cabless engine. 
 
 One feature of the days ride showed 
 how sensibly drivers of horses accept the 
 
IN ENGLAND AND WALES. 4J 
 
 innovation of bicycles in England. A 
 short distance out from Newbury a vehi- 
 cle was seen rapidly approaching us, and 
 as we drew near, the driver raised his 
 whip. A glance showed a young horse in 
 the shafts ; he very naturally shied as we 
 passed, when down came the whip on the 
 horse, and the driver remarked that he 
 would " break him in to bicycles." So on 
 the day before, while riding out to Stone- 
 henge, we met a lady driving in a phaeton, 
 who, upon seeing us, got out to hold her 
 horse. We immediately dismounted at a 
 safe distance, and on coming nearer, the 
 lady deemed it necessary to excuse herself 
 for driving such a horse, rather than accept 
 any apology from us. 
 
 It was during our run through either 
 Wiltshire or Berkshire that we noticed 
 public water troughs and drinking cups, 
 with notices warning the public not to in- 
 jure them, under heavy penalties ! This 
 
48 A BICYCLE TOUR 
 
 warning, it seems, was necessary to prevent 
 the powerful liquor-sellers from destroying 
 whatever might interfere with their inter- 
 ests ; so deep a root has the use and abuse 
 of liquor taken in England. Farther north, 
 in Derbyshire, we again saw a few such 
 wayside water supplies for drinking, but no 
 warning was attached. In London such 
 fountains and troughs are now very com- 
 mon, their introduction being such a nov- 
 elty, that I have read the precise number 
 of human beings and animals that quench 
 their thirst at these places ; the count being 
 kept and published to prove to the British 
 public, as I suppose, the utility of such 
 benefactions. 
 
 We had now been out eleven days, and 
 found it necessary to go to London for let- 
 ters, money, maps, and other things, intend- 
 ing to return to Reading the next day and 
 resume our trip. We had already seen the 
 most interesting portion of the country be- 
 
IN ENGLAND AND WALES, 49 
 
 tween Reading and London, on a four-in- 
 hand. So, leaving my bicycle in charge of 
 a porter at the Reading station, we tele- 
 graphed to our landlady in Duke Street, 
 and went by the next train to London, forty 
 miles distant, J. taking his bicycle with him 
 to be exchanged for a more serviceable one. 
 We arrived in time for dinner. 
 
 If one does not care to ride his bicycle 
 through the streets of London, it can 
 easily be carried in a hansom by standing 
 it between the dasher and your seat ; it 
 just fits in. The driver does not object; 
 it does not interfere with him, for he is 
 overhead. Bicycles are often carried on 
 the tops of cabs. 
 
 The first portion of our intended tour 
 was now over. We had traversed the coun- 
 ties of Kent, Sussex, Hampshire, Wiltshire, 
 and Berkshire, and explored the more in- 
 teresting parts of the Isle of Wight. Our 
 route had been to many of the best known 
 
 4 
 
50 A BICYCLE TOUR 
 
 watering-places, in full view of miles of 
 England's southern coast; was over hills 
 and plains and valleys in the interior; had 
 revealed to us a varied succession of coun- 
 try and city life, of hotels and of inns, both 
 good and indifferent; had enabled us to 
 examine two of England's greatest cathe- 
 drals, Canterbury and Salisbury, at least 
 three castles, Dover, Arundel, and Caris- 
 brooke, a Roman villa, and the most cele- 
 brated Druidical ruins in the kingdom. 
 
 But what, to me at least, proved of more 
 significance, was the health and superior 
 physical strength acquired. A stay of for- 
 ty-eight hours longer in America would 
 probably have found me down with a fever. 
 After the voyage, and after my return to 
 London from the Continent, whither I had 
 been on business, I was far from strong: ; 
 but the effect of this tour in the open air, 
 accompanied by rational exercise, was to 
 bring health and strength, with a disposi- 
 
IN ENGLAND AND WALES. c i 
 
 tion to renew the trip through very differ- 
 ent but equally interesting counties in the 
 centre and north of England. For this 
 our preparations were quickly made, and 
 an account of our further experience will 
 be found in the next two chapters. 
 
52 A BICYCLE TOUR 
 
 III. 
 
 It will be remembered that at the end of 
 the first part of our tour we were in Lon- 
 don again, preparing to start off afresh. 
 We arrived there on Friday evening, Au- 
 gust 29, and on Saturday afternoon follow- 
 ing returned to Reading by rail, starting 
 at once on our bicycles up the valley of 
 the world-renowned Thames, then swollen 
 by the heavy rains. Though ascending 
 the* valley, the grade was easy; still we 
 rode along at our leisure, for the river 
 views were too attractive to be passed with 
 a mere glance. We dismounted occasion- 
 ally, and in one place sauntered along the 
 bank by a little inn, appreciating the full 
 extent to which the people utilize the river, 
 where boats of all kinds are kept in great 
 numbers. Our ride was only fourteen miles 
 
u 
 
 Q 
 
 w 
 
 ,Q 
 
 
 P4 
 
 co 
 
 
 
 CO 
 
 
 3 
 
 ^O 
 
 ■£ 
 
 in 
 
 C 
 
 
 >< 
 
 ""• 
 
 > 
 
 M 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 v 
 
 CD 
 
 
 
 CJ 
 
 <u 
 
 Q 
 
 CL> 
 
 s 
 
 +J 
 
 >> 
 
 ^ 
 
 a 
 
 ,Q 
 
 
 o 
 
 o 
 
 
 CJ 
 
 Th 
 
 fn 
 
 
 oo 
 
 tf 
 
 .2 
 
 w 
 
 O 
 
 "55 
 
 .5 
 
 £ 
 
 
 13 
 
 co 
 
 « 
 
 <u 
 
 H 
 
 (ii 
 
 — 
 
 G 
 
IN ENGLAND AND WALES. 53 
 
 before nightfall, but the weather was fine, 
 and the short run slowly made to enjoy 
 the rural views. At tea-time we came to 
 ancient Wallingford, in Berkshire, and 
 stopped for the night at the Lamb. 
 
 The next day was clear and cool, and 
 before night we had met with a varied and 
 instructive experience. After breakfast, 
 riding on, we crossed the Thames at Shil- 
 lingford bridge, entering Oxfordshire, when 
 a fine run through Dorchester and Nune- 
 ham Courtney brought us to classical 
 Oxford. In " Paterson's Roads " (which 
 reached at least eighteen editions as far 
 back as 1829, and which is still of value 
 to the English tourist) I find at the con- 
 clusion of the account of Oxford this sen- 
 tence : " Volumes written on this head 
 would be unequal to do justice to the sub- 
 ject, and, in a few words, the powers of the 
 pen are as inadequate to describe, as the 
 creations of the pencil incompetent to de- 
 
54 A * BICYCLE TOUR 
 
 lineate the resplendent beauties of the city 
 of Oxford." 
 
 We stopped at the famous old Mitre 
 Tavern, took lunch, and at once went on 
 a tour of the city with a guide, who ex- 
 pressed his pride in the number of distin- 
 guished persons he had conducted through 
 Oxford. I pass over details. We of course 
 saw all that was open to us, including the 
 several colleges, the gardens and grounds, 
 the river, and the boat-houses. We hope, 
 however, to visit Oxford again, and to study 
 the city more thoroughly. 
 
 Our route that afternoon was over the 
 highway to Woodstock, where we turned 
 to the left to see Blenheim Park, the mag- 
 nificent seat of the Duke of Marlborough, 
 with its princely mansion, the gift of the 
 nation to the Duke. Unfortunately the 
 palace was not open to visitors on that 
 day, and we lost the chance of seeing one 
 of the most valuable collections of pictures 
 
IN ENGLAND AND WALES. 55 
 
 in England. There were some fine speci- 
 mens of the little Blenheim spaniel playing 
 at the palace gate. 
 
 On approaching Woodstock we found 
 the road very rough and fatiguing. I 
 called for an explanation from some of the 
 inhabitants, and asked why they allowed the 
 road to remain in such a state. They ad- 
 mitted the bad condition of the roads in 
 all directions from Woodstock, affirming 
 that it was due to some difficulty in the 
 local governing boards, and regretted our 
 annoyance. The rough riding continued 
 as we kept on through Oxfordshire, a coun- 
 ty where I think we had harder work than 
 in any other in England. We were on 
 the highway to Banbury; and this I am 
 sure of, — that in the summer of 1879 it 
 was a very rough road to Banbury Cross. 
 What with Oxford and Blenheim Park, 
 and the bad road that day, we did not 
 reach Banbury till after dark, and then 
 stopped at the Red Lion. 
 
56 A BICYCLE TOUR 
 
 In the morning we selected photographs, 
 including some of the Banbury Cross, — 
 not the ancient one of nursery rhyme, 
 which is destroyed, but the new one re- 
 cently erected, and which, though fine, is 
 small, and not to be compared, it seemed 
 to me, with the grand old cross at Chiches- 
 ter, in Sussex. 
 
 When about a mile out of the town, we 
 overtook a pack of foxhounds driven along 
 the highway by the first and second whips, 
 both mounted. The hounds obeyed the 
 whips admirably, promptly moving from 
 side to side of the road as directed. This 
 was the second pack met, the first being in 
 the South of England. The returns for 
 1877 showed in the United Kingdom 
 about three hundred and forty packs of 
 staghounds, foxhounds, harriers, and bea- 
 gles, having not far short of ten thousand 
 couples. The expense of the hunting es- 
 tablishments is enormous, the stable being 
 
IN ENGLAND AND WALES. 57 
 
 a far more onerous burden than that of 
 a fashionable pack. The " Pall Mall Ga- 
 zette " of November 3, 1877, estimated the 
 annual amount spent by the masters of 
 hounds out of their own pockets, or out 
 of the fund subscribed in the district for 
 hunting establishments, including stables 
 and kennels, at ^547,000, or over $2,500,- 
 000 a year. To this is to be added the 
 money spent by the people who hunt, from 
 the owners of well-appointed studs to the 
 modest proprietor of a steed called upon to 
 do its three days' work in a fortnight. 
 
 The pack we overtook was at once or- 
 dered on to one side by the whips to let us 
 pass, but I rode slowly behind a little while 
 to watch the movements and discipline of 
 the hounds. In this connection, it may be 
 observed that I cannot recall an instance, 
 throughout our tour, w r here a dog of any 
 kind gave us annoyance. Contrast this 
 with bicycle-riding in Massachusetts, where 
 
58 A BICYCLE TOUR 
 
 it is an art to know how to manage the 
 various breeds, from a snapping mongrel 
 to the more dangerous Newfoundland. 
 
 We now pressed on to enter Warwick- 
 shire, one of England's most charming 
 counties ; first riding along the ridge of 
 Edge Hill, where Charles I. engaged in 
 battle with the Earl of Essex in 1642, and 
 where five thousand men are said to have 
 been found dead on the field of battle. 
 The descent down the hill on to the plain 
 near Kineton was so steep that we had to 
 dismount and hold our machines back with 
 no small effort. It was one of the steepest 
 hills on the highway that we met in Eng- 
 land. Rapidly riding across Warwickshire, 
 by the way of Kineton and Charlcote, we 
 entered Stratford-upon-Avon about noon, 
 and stopped at the Shakespeare Inn, which 
 had by its door, on a well-painted sign, 
 " Headquarters of the Bicycle Touring 
 Club." 
 
IN ENGLAND AND WALES. ^9 
 
 For a hundred and fifty miles or more 
 I had ridden my machine without having: 
 it washed, and, as a consequence, it was in 
 a shocking: state, though in o-ood running 
 order. This had happened because, dur- 
 ing the first week or more of our tour, 
 when we scrupulously attended to the 
 cleaning of the machines at an expense of 
 a shilling a day for each, it either rained 
 regularly the next morning, or the roads 
 were so muddy that after a few minutes' 
 use the machines were as dirty as before. 
 At last I concluded that mine should not be 
 cleaned at all, whereupon fine weather set 
 in, which, to our delight, continued all the 
 way to Stratford ; but as I rode over the 
 bridge into that Shakespearian town, a 
 little urchin actually cried out, " Just look 
 at that bicycle ; it is dirty beyond descrip- 
 tion ! " That child's remark had its effect ; 
 and in spite of J.'s laughing protest, before 
 another hour had passed, my machine was 
 
60 A BICYCLE TOUR 
 
 washed by the hostler at the inn, who 
 called out as we entered the stable yard, 
 " This way with yer 'oss, sir ; 'ere's a box 
 stall for yer 'oss, sir." 
 
 It 'is said that more Americans make the 
 pilgrimage to Stratford than any other peo- 
 ple, and that they show more interest in 
 the town and its associations. However 
 this may be, we experienced the usual emo- 
 tions and made the usual tour of the place, 
 which, as a town, was by far the neatest 
 and cleanest I had yet observed. We saw 
 two other towns in England, and but two, 
 noticeable for their neatness, — Leaming- 
 ton, also in Warwickshire, and Doncaster 
 in Yorkshire. 
 
 From Stratford to Coventry, by War- 
 wick and Kenilworth Castle, has been said 
 to be the finest walk in England. We 
 passed over the greater part of the way 
 more than once. Leamington, England's 
 fashionable Spa, is only two miles from 
 
PEACOCK INN. DERBYSHIRE. 
 (Page 83.) 
 
 WARWICK CASTLE, WARWICK. 
 (Page 61.) 
 
IN ENGLAND AND WALES. 6 1 
 
 Warwick. Thus, within a line of twenty 
 miles up and down the valley of the Avon, 
 are to be found what no traveller in Ens:- 
 land should neglect, — all the Shakespear- 
 ian associations of Stratford, the extremely 
 interesting studies of old Warwick and 
 Kenilworth Castles, the comforts and re- 
 pose of modern Leamington, and the 
 churches as well as the important manu- 
 facturing interests of Coventry. 
 
 At Warwick we stopped at the Warwick 
 Arms, and in the morning rode over to 
 Kenilworth Castle, after which we made 
 the short but pleasant run to Coventry, 
 passing on the way great numbers of men 
 and boys walking and riding to the War- 
 wick races. We stopped at the Castle, 
 in Coventry, which is conveniently near 
 the noble churches and other buildings of 
 interest My attention was called to the 
 public library, but I was surprised to find, 
 in this city of forty thousand inhabitants, 
 
62 A BICYCLE TOUR 
 
 a library inferior to some in New England 
 towns of half or even a fourth that number 
 of people. It brought to mind the speech 
 of young Lord Hamilton on education, 
 which we heard in the Commons in July, 
 and which helped to impress the English 
 people with the deficiencies and needs of 
 popular education. 
 
 New we were in the very heme of bi- 
 cycles, They were constantly seen in the 
 streets, the bells attached giving notice of 
 their approach. We used Challis Brothers 1 
 
 white-met. il stop bell, .1 small, neat affair, 
 obtained in London, which was fastened to 
 the handle bar, the tongue or ball inside 
 
 \g provided with a cord and rub 
 spring, by which it could be pulled into 
 quietude and kept so. or by a mere touch 
 of the finger be forced again into the 
 sphere to sound its melodious notes. Such 
 a bell was necessary, for in some towns 
 in England the local councils make the 
 
IN ENGLAND AND WALES. 63 
 
 use of bells compulsory ; and not knowing 
 how many such towns there were, we al- 
 ways let our bells ring while in town or 
 city limits, and stopped them when in the 
 country. In this way we never had any 
 trouble. 
 
 The bicycle manufacturers in Coventry 
 were very obliging, and showed us through 
 their works with pleasure. I mention par- 
 ticularly, Bayliss, Thomas, & Co., Hillman 
 & Herbert, Singer & Co., and the Coventry 
 Machinist Company. To Americans, who 
 do not know what an industry bicycle mak- 
 ing now is, the extent of these manufacto- 
 ries is a revelation. 
 
 Tricycles, now called for more and more, 
 — the Queen has ordered one, — were then 
 attracting no little attention ; and we were 
 shown, by each of two rival manufacturers, 
 the tricycles they were privately making to 
 be run in the fifty-mile road race out of 
 London, and which I believe was w T on by 
 
64 A BICYCLE TOUR 
 
 Mr. Derkinderin, — a well-known rider, then 
 with Hillman & Herbert. It was difficult 
 to select from among these manufacturers ; 
 they were all worthy of patronage and had 
 high reputations. I can myself vouch for 
 the machines of at least three of them. 
 Finally, J. concluded to order two fifty-six- 
 inch " Club " machines, for home use, of 
 the Coventry Machinist Company. For 
 these he gave minute directions, which 
 were carried out while we continued our 
 tour ; and on our way home from London 
 to Liverpool, some time later, we stopped 
 at Coventry, took a run out toward Kenil- 
 worth and back on the new machines, and 
 then had them boxed for the voyage. The 
 machines were the finest I have ever seen. 
 Riding bicycles abroad does not make 
 them free of duty at home ; for the prac- 
 tice in United States custom-houses has 
 of late been changed in this regard, and 
 duties must be paid on bicycles whether 
 
IN ENGLAND AND WALES. 65 
 
 they have been used or not. So when Mr. 
 James Gordon Bennett brought home some 
 vehicles used abroad by him, and which 
 he supposed were thus free from duty, it 
 seems that he was obliged to pay, because 
 the old rule to the contrary had been abol- 
 ished. 
 
 It was on one of our subsequent visits 
 to Coventry that w T e sat down to a " com- 
 mercial dinner " at the Castle. This, as 
 explained by our host, was simply a dinner 
 of commercial gentlemen, at about one 
 o'clock, and of daily occurrence in Eng- 
 land. There were, I believe, eight at the 
 table where we were invited to sit. The 
 dinner was substantial, though plain, — of 
 fish, a roast, one or two vegetables, and a 
 pudding or tart. The simplicity of the 
 ordinary English fare is noticeable. There 
 was, perhaps, a little insincerity on both 
 sides when, after some experience in vari- 
 ous counties of England, we would ask : 
 
 5 
 
66 A BICYCLE TOUR 
 
 " What can you give us for dinner ? " and 
 would be answered : " What would you 
 like to have ? " It was either beef or mut- 
 ton, or mutton or beef, almost from one end 
 of England to the other. Eggs, to be sure, 
 were sometimes to be had, and occasionally 
 fish, but the great variety to which Ameri- 
 cans are accustomed is not ordinarily met 
 with in England. I noticed this peculiar- 
 ity in the bread : that in the southern half 
 of the country the loaves were always cir- 
 cular, with a small twist or top-knot on the 
 upper side ; while in the northern half they 
 were baked in the circular or rectangular 
 form, without the upper story. 
 
 About noon of September 3, a fine, clear 
 day, we rode out of Coventry, over the 
 great highway, toward Birmingham, and 
 when eight miles off, turned sharp to the 
 north at the Stone Bridge, riding away 
 toward Coleshill and Tarn worth, stopping 
 a few moments at the former for a glass 
 
IN ENGLAND AND WALES. 67 
 
 of beer and a biscuit, and at the latter 
 about two hours at the Castle Hotel, for a 
 substantial dinner, when J. opened a bottle 
 of champagne in honor of his brother's 
 birthday. Our ride to Tamworth was at a 
 very rapid rate, over a good road ; and the 
 run from there was through a level coun- 
 try to Burton-on-Trent, in Staffordshire, 
 where we arrived at six o'clock, and stopped 
 at the Queen's. 
 
 The entrance to the stable yards of pub- 
 lic-houses in England is often under an 
 archway, over and on both sides of which 
 the hotel is sometimes built. We rode 
 under the archway at the Queen's, as we 
 supposed, and put our machines in charge 
 of the hostler ; but we were given such 
 questionable apartments, and had such an 
 unsatisfactory supper, that I was a little 
 mortified, and strolled out to see where we 
 were, when, to my amusement, I found we 
 had entered the Saracen's Head instead of 
 
68 A BICYCLE TOUR 
 
 the Queen's, — the two being side by side, 
 and the mistake easily made in the arch. 
 In a few moments we were comfortably 
 established at the Queen's, whose landlord 
 took us that evening to some amateur the- 
 atricals in a public hall, which were quite a 
 novelty. 
 
 Mention of the " Saracen's Head " re- 
 minds me of the many odd names given to 
 English inns. Much curious information 
 is to be had in the large city and county 
 directories found throughout England, and 
 I usually examined the directory of each 
 county we entered, for a better knowledge 
 of the various sections. As to the names 
 of inns, I had the curiosity to look through 
 a long list of them in the Yorkshire direc- 
 tory, and jotted down, as illustrations of 
 English fancy in naming public-houses, the 
 following : Cat i' th' Window (Halifax, 
 Yorkshire); Flitch of Bacon; Jug; Hen 
 and Chickens ; Hole in the Wall ; Hop 
 
o 
 
 ■9 
 
IN ENGLAND AND WALES. 69 
 
 Pole ; Labour in Vain ; Malt Shovel ; Old 
 Dusty Miller ; One Tun ; Ring o' Bells ; 
 Shoulder of Mutton (common) ; Three 
 Horseshoes. If there is anything in a 
 name, which of these inns is the most su£- 
 gestive of a good dinner, a carousal, or a 
 sound night's rest ? 
 
 Before leaving Burton, we of course vis- 
 ited the breweries where the renowned 
 " India Pale " or " Bitter Beer " is manu- 
 factured, and which, it seems, owes its 
 favor at home to an accident. It was first 
 made about the year 1823 for the East, and 
 for several years India was its only market. 
 But a vessel carrying a number of hogs- 
 heads of India Pale was lost in the Chan- 
 nel ; its cargo was sold ; and in this way 
 bitter beer first became known as a bever- 
 age in England, and so rapid was its popu- 
 larity that since 1828 the pale-ale trade has 
 taken the lead in Burton. The marvellous 
 growth of the brewing trade has been more 
 especially since 1862. At Burton nearly 
 
70 A BICYCLE TOUR 
 
 3,000,000 barrels of ale, of 36 gallons each, 
 are produced in a year, valued at $35,000,- 
 000. Bass & Co., and Allsopp & Sons, 
 have the largest of the thirty breweries 
 there. Bass & Co.'s business premises 
 cover over 150 acres, with six miles of rail- 
 way and six locomotives — their own ex- 
 clusive property. 
 
 We were introduced by the attentive 
 landlord of the Queen's to one of the firm 
 of Bass & Co., who kindly took us over 
 the more interesting portion of their enor- 
 mous breweries. Afterward we found our 
 way into one of the vast receiving cellars 
 or vaults, where an employe, appreciating 
 our motives and coin, led us on through 
 hidden recesses to a particular row of bar- 
 rels, one of which he pierced with a gimlet, 
 and drew into a tall beaker glass after glass 
 of ale unsurpassed in quality and appear- 
 ance. One learns here to appreciate all 
 the more that, in buying Bass's ale, care 
 should be taken to find out who bottled it. 
 
IN ENGLAND AND WALES. 7 1 
 
 IV. 
 
 No sooner had one county of interest 
 been left than we entered another. It was 
 a great satisfaction to know that, ride where 
 one would, new attractions were always to 
 be found. Derbyshire, the next county on 
 our route to the north, is famous for its 
 scenery, its waters, its Chatsworth, and its 
 Haddon and Hardwick Halls. The great 
 " Derby " races are not held in Derby, 
 but more than a hundred miles to the 
 south, at Epsom, in Surrey, fourteen miles 
 southwest of London. To be sure, races 
 are held at Derby, the county town of 
 Derbyshire, but they are rather local, and 
 not to be mistaken for the " Derby " races 
 at Epsom. The great Epsom meeting is 
 on Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, and 
 Friday immediately before Whitsuntide, the 
 
72 A BICYCLE TOUR 
 
 " Derby" being on Wednesday, the "Oaks " 
 on Friday ; called so after one of the Earls 
 of Derby, and his seat, the Oaks, which is in 
 the neighborhood. Next in importance to 
 the Epsom races are the Doncaster races, 
 at Doncaster, in Yorkshire, held (1879) on 
 Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, and Fri- 
 day, September 9, 10, 11, and 12. As the 
 " Derby " is the chief feature of the Epsom 
 races, so the " St. Leger " is that of the 
 Doncaster races ; named after Lieutenant- 
 General St. Leger, who originated it in 
 1776. Of the Doncaster races more will 
 be said later on. 
 
 Our morning examination of the great 
 breweries at Burton-upon-Trent, in Staf- 
 fordshire, and the proper sampling of 
 Bass's finest ale, prevented a very early 
 start; but at last we were again in the 
 saddle, and pushed on to Derby, where we 
 found it advisable to take the train for 
 Matlock Bath, arriving there at 2.30 p. m., 
 
uished. 
 
SCENE AT AN ENGLISH RACE-COURSE 
 From Frith's celebrated painting in the National Gallery, London. With a glass nearly one 
 (Paces 86-93). 
 
 hundred figures may be distinguished. 
 
IN ENGLAND AND WALES. 73 
 
 and stopping at the New Bath Hotel. Mat- 
 lock Bath is resorted to for its medicinal 
 springs, and the many interesting excur- 
 sions near by. The village lies in a dale 
 through which the river Derwent flows, by 
 steep and lofty rocks nearly three hundred 
 feet high. The Matlock waters have a 
 temperature of about 68° Fahrenheit. In 
 the basement of our hotel was a large swim- 
 ming bath, between cemented walls, where- 
 in the natural waters constantly flowed ; so 
 that on arising in the morning, or at any 
 other time, without leaving the house, we 
 could descend and swim around at pleasure. 
 Our first afternoon at Matlock was spent 
 in paddling canoes on the river, rambling 
 along the shore and over the rocks, and in 
 having our tin-types taken, in riding cos- 
 tume, at the little stand by the highway. 
 
 The next morning we were off at a good 
 hour for Chatsworth, " the finest private 
 country residence in the world." Our ride 
 
74 A BICYCLE TOUR 
 
 was up the Derwent valley; from Matlock 
 for about eight miles. The Park at Chats- 
 worth is upwards of eleven miles in circuit 
 (equal to that of the whole town of Brook- 
 line, Mass.). As we rode through the park, 
 herds of deer were seen quite near on each 
 side of the avenue ; the bucks, with their 
 antlers erect, all on one side, the does scam- 
 pering off on the other. We dismounted 
 at the mansion, or palace, and resting our 
 machines upon the inner side of the great 
 gate walls, waited, as the custom is, for the 
 arrival of a sufficient number of persons to 
 make up a party for the ushers to conduct 
 through the residence and grounds. I am 
 not now sure of the number, but believe 
 about three thousand persons a week were 
 then visiting Chats worth. Thirty years ago, 
 in 1850, Downing wrote that "upwards of 
 eighty thousand persons visited Chatsworth 
 last year." The crowd is greater, of course, 
 in summer. Long open coaches and con- 
 
IN ENGLAND AND WALES. 75 
 
 veyances of various kinds bring visitors by 
 the score from the stations at Rowsley and 
 Bakewell, and from all the country round 
 about. 
 
 To me the greatest attractions in the 
 interior of the mansion were the sculpture 
 and the marvellous wood carving ; the lat- 
 ter claimed to be largely by that master 
 artist of the seventeenth century, Grinling 
 Gibbons, whose subjects are chiefly birds, 
 flowers, foliage, fruit, and lace. It is even 
 said that " many of his flowers used to 
 move on their stems, like their natural pro- 
 totypes, when shaken by a breeze." In the 
 sculpture gallery, the usher, who had ob- 
 served our scrutiny, kindly remarked, as 
 the potent coin touched her palm, that we 
 might remain till the next party came 
 through ; this we did, enjoying at our 
 leisure, and undisturbed, the fine pieces 
 by Canova, Thorwaldsen, and Chantrey. 
 Afterwards we found the grand conserva- 
 
j6 A BICYCLE TOUR 
 
 tory and the gardens attractive and justly 
 celebrated; but for an interesting descrip- 
 tion of these, I refer the reader to Down- 
 ing's account of Chatsworth in his " Rural 
 Essays." 
 
 On the way back to Matlock we dis- 
 mounted for a little refreshment, but were 
 told by the woman in charge of the place 
 that she had formerly " cut up as many as 
 five hams in a season," but of late, customers 
 were so few that she had given up keeping 
 supplies, and could not give us even a glass 
 of milk, on account of some peculiarity of 
 her landlord. This was the sorriest place 
 of the kind we met in the whole country. 
 It was true, however, that on account of 
 the hard times in England, travel was then 
 much lighter than formerly ; and as a rule, 
 even at well-established inns, bicycle riders 
 were welcomed for the few shillings they 
 left. 
 
 On arriving at Matlock we dined with 
 
IN ENGLAND AND WALES. J J 
 
 a hearty appetite, and concluded to go to 
 London by the evening train, to see on the 
 morrow the last day's riding of the great 
 six days' bicycle race at Agricultural Hall, 
 London, and to attend to other matters 
 there. We arrived at our rooms on Duke 
 Street at 1 1 p. m. that evening. This ride 
 by rail, from Matlock Bath to London and 
 back, is not indicated on the map. 
 
 We frequently took long as well as short 
 journeys by rail in addition to our bicycle 
 riding; most of our time in passing from 
 place to place, however, being spent in the 
 saddle. England has such a network of 
 railways, that one can dart hither and yon 
 in all directions from almost any point. 
 By taking advantage of these facilities for 
 travel, we saw a large portion of the coun- 
 try not covered by our route on the bicycle. 
 We travelled in our riding costume, either 
 first, second, or third class, as fancy or good 
 luck determined. The third-class accom- 
 
78 A BICYCLE TOUR 
 
 modations are at times good and at times 
 bad. Thus, in 1879, the Midland was a 
 favorite road for third-class passengers, 
 while the London and South Eastern was 
 so unpopular that the " Times " published 
 several letters condemning the company. 
 The purchase of a second, or even a third- 
 class ticket, often resulted in a ride in a 
 first-class compartment. This happened 
 when all but first-class compartments were 
 full, or when the customary sixpence to 
 the porter induced him to open a first-class 
 compartment whether the others were full 
 or not. This is the every-day experience 
 in England. 
 
 English life on the railway trains is 
 quite a study. One day at Derby the 
 trains were all late, and the station crowded 
 with a motley throng from the local races. 
 We knew there would be a scramble when 
 the down train came, and tipped a porter 
 with particular instructions to get us a 
 
IN ENGLAND AND WALES. 79 
 
 seat ; but, just as the porter opened a door, 
 a rush of rowdies in regular English fash- 
 ion swept porter and everybody else away 
 from the car. I never came nearer plant- 
 ing my fist in somebody's eye, but it was 
 well I did not ; it would have been rash, 
 and a moment later our porter had us safe- 
 ly tucked into a first-class compartment. 
 There were seven persons crowded into 
 that compartment, which was meant for 
 but six, and the chaff and abuse hurled to 
 and fro between some of his countrymen 
 and that seventh man were such as I 
 thought would lead to blows. At last the 
 situation was accepted, the conversation 
 turned pleasantly upon the races, and we 
 were made acquainted with the freshest 
 horse-talk of the day. On another occa- 
 sion, while riding out of London in a sec- 
 ond-class compartment, a man got in with 
 a large open basket filled with glassware, 
 which he rested upon his knees, and then 
 
8o A BICYCLE TOUR 
 
 began to smoke, though it was not a smok- 
 ing car. The thought of being mixed up 
 with a basketful of lamp chimneys and 
 glass bric-a-brac, in case of an accident, was 
 not pleasant ; altogether, the glass man was 
 a good subject for attack, and a fellow-pas- 
 senger who disliked smoking engaged with 
 him in such a bout of words that the guard 
 was at last called on to settle the mat- 
 ter. But for banter and raillery, or for 
 mockery and jeer, I suppose the London 
 cockney carries off the palm. We had 
 such a fellow on board the " Baltic " on the 
 voyage over, who was set upon one day in 
 the smoking-room by some sharp-tongued 
 Americans, and who gave in return an ex- 
 hibition of his powers of retort, which fully 
 sustained the reputation of his class. Of a 
 different type was the soldier we travelled 
 with in Wiltshire, who was just from the 
 Cape, having returned with Captain Cary, 
 and who took pleasure in exhibiting some 
 
•**rt£ 
 
 ■B 
 
 
 i-i .c 
 
 « 
 
 6 
 o 
 CD 
 
 H 
 
IN ENGLAND AND WALES. 8 1 
 
 ostrich feathers from South Africa, and as- 
 segai or Zulu darts of the kind used in the 
 assassination of Louis Napoleon. While 
 riding through Staffordshire one evening, 
 the train stopped, and a man came tum- 
 bling into the compartment with his fish- 
 pole and basket, in a high frame of mind 
 over his day's sport, having lost his two 
 companions, and having a few little fish 
 which he exultingly showed for approval. 
 But to return. 
 
 The race at Agricultural Hall, London, 
 was won by Waller, a Newcastle man, who 
 accomplished the extraordinary feat of rid- 
 ing fourteen hundred and four miles in six 
 days of eighteen working hours each. Not 
 one of the contestants was a physical mod- 
 el. Keen, who probably rides in the best 
 form of any English rider of note, did not 
 enter this race, or at least was not riding 
 that day. Waller, Terront, and Cann were 
 
 the chief contestants. We saw Cann fall 
 
 6 
 
82 A BICYCLE TOUR 
 
 in turning a corner ; it was pitiable : for- 
 tunately the other riders did not fall on 
 him. He was picked up by a policeman, 
 and, with damaged ankle and arm, was 
 helped hobbling to a dressing-room. Ter- 
 ront pressed close upon Waller, lap after 
 lap, but Waller held his own. They ate 
 and drank in the saddle, seizing food or a 
 mug of beef tea — or whatever it was — as 
 they passed an attendant, and tossing back 
 the mug empty on the next round. The 
 riders were tough and sinewy to a remark- 
 able degree, but wanting in athletic beauty 
 of form. It was not my fortune to see in 
 all England a single bicycle rider noticeable 
 for grace and ease in the saddle. Keen, to 
 be sure, is an exception, but I never saw 
 Keen ride till he came to America. This 
 want of form in riding, even among some 
 of the most extraordinary long-distance rid- 
 ers in England, was especially noticeable. 
 The next day (Sunday, September 7) we 
 
IN ENGLAND AND WALES. 83 
 
 left London, and returned to Matlock Bath 
 over the Midland Railroad, arriving at 7.30 
 p. m. On Monday morning we were off 
 again in the saddle over the road towards 
 Chatsworth. The rain of the day before 
 made the road very treacherous. We have 
 nothing of the kind in Massachusetts : 
 English roads with a limestone surface are, 
 when wet, exasperatingly slippery ; I felt 
 in my bones, as the phrase is, that I should 
 fall, and I did, but no harm was done. 
 About three miles south of Chatsworth 
 we turned to the west, passing the cele- 
 brated Peacock Inn, well known to tour- 
 ists in Derbyshire, and in a few moments 
 rode up to Haddon Hall, which, perhaps, 
 gives the best idea of an ancient baronial 
 residence to be found in England, for it 
 is preserved as it was. We were shown 
 through Haddon by a pretty little maid of 
 about twelve years, who pointed out and 
 described the various rooms and mementos 
 
84 A BICYCLE TOUR 
 
 with a precision and a charm that were 
 captivating. Her voice had that sweetness 
 and purity of tone for which so many of 
 the sex in England are noted the world 
 over. 
 
 Our route from Haddon Hall was over 
 Beeley Hill (nearly one thousand feet high) 
 and across Beeley Moor to Chesterfield. 
 A better way would have been by Bake- 
 well and Baslow. The hill gave us a hard 
 climb, and the road over the moor at the 
 top was too rough for bicycle riding ; it 
 was the hardest and longest tramp in push- 
 ing our bicycles that we had, and before 
 we reached Chesterfield a heavy shower 
 overtook us. After dinner at the Angel, 
 as the roads were too muddy to use our 
 machines with comfort, w r e took a hansom, 
 and were driven out to Hardwick Hall, 
 eight miles southeast. This hall is far- 
 famed and very interesting, and, like Chats- 
 worth, is the property of the Duke of 
 
IN ENGLAND AND WALES. 85 
 
 Devonshire. It was here that Mary Queen 
 of Scots passed several years of her captiv- 
 ity. The great picture gallery is one hun- 
 dred and ninety-five feet in length, ranging 
 along the whole of the east front. 
 
 From Chesterfield our route was to 
 Sheffield and Doncaster, — both in York- 
 shire. Our stop at Sheffield was short, to 
 examine the Hallamshire bicycle works ; 
 and we hurried on to Doncaster to attend 
 the races. That town was crowded with 
 visitors. We dined at the Royal Hotel, 
 but were told that a bed for that night 
 was not to be had in Doncaster under two 
 guineas — ten dollars. As two guineas 
 was altogether more than we intended to 
 pay, we went to the races, and then, jump- 
 ing on our saddles, rode over to Thorne, 
 nine miles off, arriving at the White Hart 
 in ample time for tea, and paid for our 
 beds but two shillings. 
 
 After breakfast the next day we rode to 
 
86 A BICYCLE TOUR 
 
 Selby by the way of Snaith, the latter half 
 of the way over an execrable road, badly 
 out of repair. At Selby we lunched at the 
 Londesborough Arms, and had opportuni- 
 ty to examine the beautiful church near by ; 
 then, leaving our machines, we took a train 
 back to Doncaster, arriving there in time 
 to attend the ten races of that afternoon, 
 including the great St. Leger. Thousands 
 of people go every year to these races. 
 They even tell you in Yorkshire that the 
 Doncaster races are not surpassed by the 
 " Derby " at Epsom. Doncaster is a neat 
 and attractive town, and the race-course is 
 close by, over a wide, flat plain; not like 
 our race-courses, but spread over much 
 more ground, with room for many stands 
 and ample space for private coaches and 
 carriages, with the vast throng that surges 
 up and down. We studied the field and 
 scene from every available point, going out 
 to the starting-points, standing midway 
 
:jBt- 
 
 in 
 W 
 
 - * 
 
 Q 
 
 s 
 
 
 
 <J 
 
 3 
 
 as 
 
 
 W 
 
 <D 
 
 !> 
 
 
 ffi 
 
 £ 
 
 <u 
 
 
 >H 
 
 <-H 
 
 T^ 
 
 
 (-1 
 
 s 
 
 (D 
 
 > 
 
 
 O 
 
 ■73 
 
 O 
 XI 
 
 
 
 4) 
 
 
 01 
 
 fti 
 
 
 <u 
 
 o 
 
 < 
 
 
 M-c 
 
 1 
 
 w 
 
 
 o 
 
 ON 
 
 <r 
 
 £ 
 
 t/5 
 
 (U 
 
 (/) 
 
 
 ■^ 
 
 bfl 
 
 w 
 
 ^ 
 
 CJ 
 
 Tj 
 
 o 
 
 H 
 
 O 
 S-i 
 
 "C 
 
 < 
 
 
 
 1-1 
 
 <J 
 
 
 H 
 
 
 (^2 
 
 
 
 & 
 
 ffi 
 
 
 H 
 
 M 
 
 P 
 
 2 
 
 O 
 rn 
 
 ID 
 > 
 
IN ENGLAND AND WALES. 8j 
 
 down the course, and being close at the 
 finish. The first race was at 145 p. m., 
 and the last of the ten was at 5.30 p. m., so 
 that no time was wasted. The horses are 
 not always started where the race ends, 
 but at various places and distances, so as 
 to finish at the grand stands, after running 
 " five furlongs," " six furlongs,'' from the 
 " Red House Inn," "one mile, six furlongs, 
 and one hundred and thirty-two yards," 
 " two miles and five furlongs," or as the 
 case may be. On the day before, Mr. 
 Pierre Lorillard, of New York, entered his 
 famous horse Parole for the Great York- 
 shire Handicap, but Parole was easily dis- 
 tanced by Dresden China and two other 
 horses. For the St. Leger stakes there 
 were twenty-two entries. Rayon D'or, en- 
 tered by Count F. de Lagrange, won ; 
 Ruperra came in second. 
 
 To see all the horses entered galloping 
 over the turf (the track is entirely of turf 
 
88 A BICYCLE TOUR 
 
 and not gravel), now separate, now in a 
 clump as if to run over each other, and 
 goaded on by the jockeys in their bright 
 costumes, is a stirring sight. The din from 
 the shouting of the betting men and crowd 
 was extraordinary ; at times there was a 
 lull, and then a roar of human voices again 
 came over the field. The men who sold 
 betting tickets were usually on short stilts 
 or shoes with soles perhaps a foot thick, 
 and they wore startling costumes with lofty 
 chimney-pots oddly labelled. They hailed 
 from London, Liverpool, Dublin, Edin- 
 burgh, and elsewhere. Mingling with 
 these were acrobats, — men who dislocated 
 their shoulders and twisted and bent like 
 snakes ; and as for the three-card-monte 
 men, they were everywhere, and as cun- 
 ning and successful as the craft can be. 
 When the lockers and hampers of the pri- 
 vate coaches were opened, there was feast- 
 ing enough. I saw a little urchin creep 
 
IN ENGLAND AND WALES. 
 
 8 9 
 
 under a coach for an empty champagne 
 bottle. All classes of society elbowed each 
 other; it was one of those days when all 
 England might jostle together with im- 
 punity. Here is one of the betting tick- 
 ets; the original, however, is printed in 
 four different colors : — 
 
 ^Z£% 
 
 m. 
 
 FIRST PAST THE POST. 
 IN RUN OR NOT. 
 
 T. Smith, Printer Maiden Lane, Nottingham 
 
 < 
 
 J 
 
 *-*L 
 
 ? 
 
 s° ) 
 
 }ft 
 
 
 ( !-«• 
 
 "3 ( 
 
 )oq 
 
 fl> ; 
 
 ; f=* 
 
 H { 
 
 C e+- 
 
 L, 
 
 Ja 
 
 P?" 
 
 
 °> 
 
 ) K ~ l 
 
 fl? 
 
 
 ij \ 1 
 
 ■OQ 
 
 
 «W7: 
 
 5" 
 
 >^ 
 
 
 p^tl 
 
 
 
 Im 
 
 ^^n 
 
 Jrz 
 
 
 ^S w 
 
 "^ < 
 
 ( £ 
 
 r 
 
 ( P 
 
 t» S 
 ct-r 
 
 > P- 
 
 s 
 
 
 and here is a copy of one of the racing 
 cards, the entries being omitted for want 
 of space, except the entries for the St. 
 Leger Stakes, which are given: — 
 
90 A BICYCLE TOUR 
 
 1 A C The Cleveland Handicap of 20 sovs. each, 
 10 ft, and 5 only if declared, with 100 added; 
 the winner of the Leamington Stakes, the Great Ebor 
 Handicap, or the Great Yorkshire Handicap to carry 
 9lb, of two of these stakes 1 21b or of any other handi- 
 cap after August 21st, at 10 a.m., 51b extra; the owner 
 of the second horse to save his stake. — The straight 
 mile (25 subs., 17 of whom pay 5 sovs. each). 
 
 O 1C The Rufford Abbey Stakes (Handicap) of 
 5 sovs. each, with 100 added, for three yrs old 
 and upwards ; a winner after the weights are out to 
 carry 71b extra ; the owner of the second horse to re- 
 ceive 25 sovs. out of the stakes. — Five furlongs. (15 
 subs.) 
 
 Q OC A Match of 200 sovs. each, h ft., colts 8st 
 ' ^ lolb each, one to the post. — Six furlongs. 
 
 O A The Corporation Stakes (Handicap) of 10 
 sovs. each, h ft., with 100 added, for two yrs old 
 only; a winner after Sept. 4th, at 10 a.m., to carry 71b, 
 twice or of 200 sovs. iolb extra; the owner of the sec- 
 ond horse to receive 25 sovs. out of the stakes. — Red 
 House in. (16 subs.) 
 
 O O A The St. Leger Stakes of 25 sovs. each, for 
 * three yrs old colts 8st i61b, and fillies 8st 51b ; 
 
 the owner of the second horse to receive 200 sovs. and 
 the third 100 sovs. out of the stakes. — New St. Leger 
 Course, about one mile six furlongs and 132 yards. 
 (275 subs.) 
 
IN ENGLAND AND WALES. 9 1 
 
 1 — Lord Bateman's ch c PROTECTIONIST, by Palmer — 
 
 Delilah (H. Jeffrey). 
 
 Black and rose stripes, rose sleeves and cap. 
 
 2 — Mr. H. E. Beddington's b c ALCHEMIST, by Rosicru- 
 
 cian — Gold Dust (Rossiter). 
 
 Orange, chocolate sleeves. 
 
 3 — Mr. C. Blanton's ch c EXETER, by Cathedral — Scamp's 
 
 dam (distance). 
 
 Drab, red cap. 
 
 4-Mr. W. S. Cartwright's ch c GEORGE ALBERT, by 
 Marsyas. 
 
 Scarlet, black cap. 
 
 5 — Mr. W. S. Crawfurd's br c GILDEROY, by Pell Mell — 
 
 Highland Lassie (Huxtable). 
 
 Scarlet. 
 
 6 — Mr. W. S. Crawfurd's b or br c LANSDOWN, by St. 
 
 Albans — Gentle Mary (Fordham). 
 
 Scarlet. 
 
 7 — Mr. Elam's b c MARSHALL SCOTT, by Ethus — 
 
 Baroness. 
 
 White, red sleeves and cap. 
 
 8 — Lord Falmouth's b f LEAP YEAR, by Kingcraft — 
 
 Wheat-ear. 
 
 Black, white sleeves, red cap. 
 
 9 — Lord Falmouth's ch c MULEY EDRIS, by Wild Moor 
 
 — Retty (F. Archer). 
 
 Black, white sleeves, red cap. 
 
 10 — M. E. Fould's ch c SALTEADOR, by Vertugadin — 
 
 Slapdash (Hunter). 
 
 Yellow and black hoops, black cap. 
 
 11 — Mr. Gee's b f WHITE POPPY, by Winslow — For- 
 
 mosa. 
 
 Union jack, blue sleeves and cap. 
 
92 A BICYCLE TOUR 
 
 12 — Duke of Hamilton's b c SQUEAKER, by Speaker — 
 
 Botany Bay. 
 
 Light blue, bronze sleeves and cap. 
 
 I3 _Mr. J. H. Houldsworth's ch c RUPERRA, by Advent- 
 urer — Lady Morgan (C. Wood). 
 
 Green and gold, yellow cap. 
 
 14 — Mr. W. I. Anson's b f MACCARONEA, by Macaroni — 
 
 Bonny Bell. 
 
 Turquoise, violet sleeves and cap. 
 
 15 — Count F. de Lagrange's ch c RAYON D'OR, by Flageo- 
 
 let — Arucaria (J. Goater). 
 
 Blue, red sleeves and cap. 
 
 16 — Count F. de Lagrange's ch c ZUT, by Flageolet — Regalia 
 
 (J. Morris). 
 
 Blue, red sleeves, blue cap. 
 
 17 — Lord Norreys' br c SIR BEVYS, by Favonius — Lady 
 
 Langden (T. Cannon). 
 
 Dark blue, yellow cap. 
 
 18 — Lord Rosebery's br c VISCONTI, by Parmesan — Lady 
 
 Audley (Luke). 
 
 Primrose, rose hoops and cap. 
 
 19— Lord Scarborough's b £ ELLANGOWAN, by Strathco- 
 nan — Poinsettia. 
 
 White, red spots and cap. 
 
 20— Mr. James Snarry's d f JESSIE AGNES, by Macaroni 
 — Polly Agnes. 
 
 Crimson, straw sleeves. 
 
 21 — Capt. F. Thompson's b c ROBBIE BURNS, by Martyr- 
 dom — Auchnafree (J. Snowden). 
 
 Green, white seams, black cap. 
 
 22— Mr. J. Trotter's ch c PALMBEARER, by Palmer (J. Os- 
 borne). 
 
 Pink. 
 

 h 
 
IN ENGLAND AND WALES. 93 
 
 A A The Milton Stakes of 10 sovs. each, h ft., 
 with 200 sovs. added, for two yrs old 7st, three 
 8st 91b, four 9St 31b, five and upwards 9st 51b ; m. and 
 g. allowed 31b ; the winner to be sold by auction for 200 
 sovs.; if entered to be sold for 100 sovs. allowed 71b, 
 the overplus over the selling price to be divided accord- 
 ing to the new rule. — Five furlongs. (13 subs.) 
 
 4 ?0 Ma tch for 500 sovs., h ft. — Two miles. 
 
 4 40 THE Bradgate Park Stakes of 10 sovs. each, 
 h ft., with 100 added, for two yrs old 7st, and 
 three 8st iolb; f. and g. allowed 31b, the second to 
 receive 25 sovs. out of the stakes. — Red House in. 
 (19 subs.) 
 
 R 1 A Her Majesty's Plate of 200 guineas, for three 
 yrs old 8st 31b, four 9St 71b, five 9St 131b, six 
 and upwards iost. — Cup Course, about two miles and 
 five furlongs. 
 
 C OA The Municipal Stakes of 200 sovs. each, h 
 ft., for two yrs old, colts 8st iolb, and fillies 
 8st 71b. — Red House in. (3 subs.) 
 
 Immediately after the races we returned, 
 to Selby by rail, and the next morning 
 rode on our bicycles to York, over a fair 
 road. York was the farthest point reached 
 
94 A BICYCLE TOUR 
 
 i 
 
 by us towards the north. Whether to keep 
 on as far as Edinburgh, in Scotland, or 
 not, was considered ; but, owing to the 
 rougher nature of the roads in that direc- 
 tion and want of time, it was determined 
 to make York a turning-point, and con- 
 tinue our journey in a westerly direction 
 to Chester and North Wales. The oppor- 
 tunity of examining and admiring the great 
 York Cathedral was fully appreciated. Our 
 tour had now embraced the three greatest 
 of the English cathedrals outside of Lon- 
 don, — Canterbury, Salisbury, and York. 
 
 I pass over the details of the rest of our 
 trip. Enough has been written to show 
 how independently we travelled ; how our 
 chief mode of locomotion on the line of 
 selected route was the bicycle ; how, when 
 occasion required, we journeyed by what- 
 ever other way was most agreeable, going 
 up to London, or off on side trips occa- 
 sionally, and so directing the main tour as 
 
IN ENGLAND AND WALES. 95 
 
 to enable us to see those portions of the 
 country deemed most interesting and most 
 available in the short time at our disposal. 
 
 Apart from the attractive scenery of 
 Wales, to which we now turned, there was 
 a special reason for travelling in that direc- 
 tion. On July 28, 1879, at ten o'clock at 
 night, the steamship " Baltic," of the White 
 Star line, on which we crossed to Liver- 
 pool, ran directly into the rocks at the 
 South Stack lighthouse, on the northwest 
 extremity of W T ales. The matter was hushed 
 up, for it is always policy to have but little 
 known either of steamship or of railroad ac- 
 cidents. About a month later, the "Brest," 
 a Cunard steamer, was wrecked off the 
 Lizard, in Cornwall, and all on board might 
 have perished but for the bravery of Corn- 
 ish life-saving men, who rescued crew and 
 passengers. The Cunard steamer ran full 
 speed on to the rocks at the Lizard, at half- 
 past eight o'clock at night, during a fog. 
 
96 A BICYCLE TOUR 
 
 The Lizard lights were not seen, nor was 
 the fog-horn heard. The only mention in 
 the London " Times " of our extraordinary 
 escape was in very small type, in the ship- 
 ping column, as follows : — 
 
 " The Baltic, St., from New York, arrived at Liver- 
 pool July 29. The master reports at 10 p. m. on Mon- 
 day night, during a fog, she touched the South Stack 
 and slightly damaged her stem." 
 
 " Touched," indeed ! On that voyage 
 the " Baltic " left Queenstown at about 
 eight o'clock in the morning, and, a fog 
 setting in, the run up St. George's Chan- 
 nel was made partly at half speed. About 
 four o'clock in the afternoon the steamer 
 just escaped cutting a large sailing vessel 
 in two ; at ten o'clock in the evening the 
 crash came, and* it being the last night at 
 sea, most of the passengers were up and 
 very social. There was a rush for the 
 deck ; ladies fainted ; all felt apprehen- 
 sion. The sight from the deck was terri- 
 
IN ENGLAND AND WALES. 97 
 
 bly grand. Two hundred feet above us, 
 glimmering through the fog, was the re- 
 volving light of the South Stack; rising 
 from three hundred to five hundred feet 
 from the water where the steamer struck 
 were dark, almost perpendicular rocks ; an 
 alarm bell and guns were heard from off 
 the shore. The steamer, having struck 
 head on in deep water, was backed off ; 
 she at once listed heavily to starboard. 
 The blow had crushed the bow ; no one 
 knew how soon she would go down. The 
 boats stuck ; it was a quarter of an hour 
 and more before some were loosened. A 
 small boat forward was launched by sail- 
 ors and ordered back. The steamer listed 
 heavily again, and passengers moved to the 
 port side. The water was not rough ; we 
 were near enough at first to swim to shore, 
 but we did not then know that the current 
 there was too strong for any swimmer, and 
 we did not know that the rocks were too 
 
 7 
 
98 A BICYCLE TOUR 
 
 steep to climb, with a tide rising sixteen 
 feet to wash off any, perhaps, who got a 
 footing. It is a horrible place ; many a 
 vessel has been lost on this shore. When 
 the " Arizona," of the Guion line, struck 
 an iceberg that fall, the ice crumbled 
 down by the ton ; when the " Baltic " 
 struck at South Stack, the solid rock 
 was unyielding : true, speed had been 
 slackened, because, a moment before the 
 steamer struck, the danger was seen, and 
 the engines reversed, but altogether too 
 late to stop the vessel. The strength of 
 modern steamers is thus shown : 1 their di- 
 vision into compartments is a great safe- 
 guard ; this saved the " Baltic." The 
 forward compartment filled with water ; 
 
 1 A minute examination of the "Arizona," when in 
 dock, showed that " about twenty feet of the iron work of 
 the bow, to within a few feet of the collision bulkhead, 
 had been completely carried away by collision with the 
 iceberg ; but, in other parts of the hull, every plate was in 
 its place, and not a single rivet had been started." 
 
w 
 
 mil 
 
 ii 
 
 On 
 O 
 
 en 
 
 Q 
 
 
 £ 
 
 T* 
 
 
 y~ 
 
 cS 
 
 
 H 
 
 1 
 
 
 <J 
 
 >. 
 
 
 u 
 
 -Q 
 
 £ .£ 
 
 U t> 
 
 w 
 
ENGLAND and vvai i ... 
 
 99 
 
 the other six kepi dry. l he steamer was 
 backed oil farther and farther, out ol sight 
 (,f the light, bu1 within hearing oi the guns. 
 Some thoughl il safer to keep nearei the 
 land, to make I [olyhead, i lose by ; but the 
 i aptain kepi her out to sea; the vessel 
 slo l'I ,r ' 1 listing, and eventually we disem- 
 bai ked al Liverpool iii safety. The a< i i 
 <,, '" , was attributed to the tide and foe ; 
 ""' steamei should have been two or three 
 miles farther put. Ii seems thai an Italian 
 lady gave the firsl alarm, as the greal re- 
 volving light suddenly loomed throuch 
 the fog ; and thai the lookout's warning 
 followed after. Most of the passengers 
 sat up all that night, not knowing whaj 
 might occur; and, as sometimes happens 
 1,1 sl,< '' ( ases, almost evei y passengei on 
 board, in< luding diplomats, lawyers, doc- 
 
 ,ors > merchants, and ladies, 'r-h<<\ a 
 paper next morning, exonerating [| 1( . , ;i p. 
 tain, and gave him three cheers on leav- 
 
IOO A BICYCLE TOUR 
 
 ing the steamer, so elated were they at 
 escape. 1 
 
 On our arrival in bicycle dress at Holy- 
 head, a month and a half after this acci- 
 dent, we walked across the island to the 
 South Stack Light, to see from the land 
 where the " Baltic " struck. The coast 
 scenery there is magnificent. The ap- 
 proach and descent down the rocks and 
 across the suspension bridge, ninety feet 
 
 1 At three o'clock in the morning of March 13, 1880, the 
 " Montana," of the Guion Line, was stranded on the rocks 
 beyond South Stack Light. The passengers, mails, and 
 crew were landed and sent to Liverpool next morning. 
 The Liverpool stipendiary gave judgment to the effect 
 that the accident was " in consequence of the captain hav- 
 ing neglected to make due allowance for the ebb tide be- 
 fore and after passing the South Stack, which there runs 
 strongly, takes the ship on the port bow, and sets her in 
 toward the land. The court could not accept the excuse 
 put forward by the master's advocate, that he thought 
 himself so far out of the range of the Skerries as not to 
 necessitate the use of the lead. The court found the mas- 
 ter in default for not making due allowance for the tide, 
 as he was bound to do, and for not using his lead, and 
 suspended his certificate for six calendar months." — New 
 York Maritime Register, April 28, 1880. 
 
IN ENGLAND AND WALES. IOI 
 
 above the sea, to the little lighthouse islet, 
 is uncommonly grand. Men used to be 
 lowered over these rocks, which are hun- 
 dreds of feet high, by ropes, for birds' eggs. 
 The practice is now prohibited. There is 
 a zigzag path of stone steps from the sum- 
 mit above to the bridge below, and one 
 must ring a bell on the land side of the 
 bridge to communicate with the keeper, 
 before admittance to the rocky islet is 
 gained. 
 
 To our surprise, the lighthouse keeper 
 said he knew nothing of the danger the 
 " Baltic " was in till a day or two after the 
 event. He was up in the lighthouse at the 
 time, and the fog cut off any view of 
 the sea. A wager on this, as to whether 
 the lighthouse keeper knew of our danger, 
 had been made in London. The keeper 
 could have given no assistance, not having 
 a life -boat or crew ; and he remarked that, 
 had we gone down that night, we " would 
 
102 A BICYCLE TOUR 
 
 have known what the fishes had for sup- 
 per. 
 
 A travelling photographer, with his ap- 
 paratus, happened to arrive while we were 
 on the rock, and I directed him to take 
 several views of the scene of our accident 
 and escape. These were afterwards ob- 
 tained at Warwick, his headquarters ; and 
 they are the best pictures of that romantic 
 spot known to me. 
 
 During our short stay in North Wales 
 we examined Carnarvon and Conway Cas- 
 tles, — noble old structures and magnifi- 
 cent ruins ; and we also went up to 
 pretty Llanberris, stopping at the Victoria 
 Hotel, and walking from thence to the 
 top of Snowdon, the highest mountain 
 in England or Wales (thirty-five hundred 
 and seventy-one feet high), returning on 
 foot down by Llyn Llydaw and the grand 
 Pass of Llanberris. We had fine weather 
 in Wales, and our day at South Stack 
 
IN ENGLAND AND WALES. IO3 
 
 Light was perfect : the air delightful, and 
 all peaceful and still. 
 
 While on the summit of Snowdon, we 
 took shelter from the driving clouds in a 
 small house, where some English travellers 
 joined us in conversation over a lunch of 
 bread, cheese, and ale. After a while an 
 allusion to the United States drew an as- 
 tonished inquiry as to whether we were 
 "from America, — really from the States " ? 
 They found it hard to believe that we were 
 not Englishmen, though I had supposed 
 that our talk was free from the peculiar 
 idioms, turns of expression, and intonation, 
 which stamp the Englishman the world 
 over. This was very different from my ex- 
 perience in Berlin, where, sitting for the 
 first time at a long hotel table alone among 
 strangers, an Englishman in the next chair 
 spoke to me in our common tongue, hav- 
 ing detected my nationality, as he said, by 
 merely overhearing the single word with 
 
104 A BICYCLE TOUR 
 
 which I ordered wine. This man, how- 
 ever, was an exceptional observer, and one 
 of wide experience. He even alleged that, 
 by a few minutes' chat, he could tell from 
 which of the forty counties in England 
 any of his countrymen were ; a matter not 
 so hard to determine where the dialects 
 are as pronounced as in Yorkshire, Berk- 
 shire, or Somersetshire ; but, as to other 
 and contiguous counties, where the shades 
 of difference are slight, even if appreciable, 
 the possibility of such a performance may, 
 perhaps, be questioned. 
 
 The details of our journey back to Lon- 
 don, by the way of Chester, Birmingham, 
 and Coventry, I omit, for this account has 
 already been extended more than was de- 
 signed. We reached London without ac- 
 cident, in health and fine spirits, sunburned 
 and strong, and returned our hired bicycles 
 to Peake's, on Princes Street, within a mo- 
 ment or two of the precise time when the 
 
IN ENGLAND AND WALES. IO5 
 
 month expired for which they were en- 
 gaged. 
 
 It must not be supposed that we passed 
 over all the choicest parts of England and 
 Wales on this tour. Many delightful trips 
 could be made without crossing our path. 
 There is a large portion of western and 
 southwestern England which we omitted 
 altogether. Then there is the ride through 
 the Lake country, — rather rough, how- 
 ever, — and so on over what I was told is a 
 very fine road, — the run from Carlisle to 
 Edinburgh. For crossing North Wales, 
 one may take either the more northerly 
 route from Chester to Bangor, or the 
 famous road from Shrewsbury to Bangor, 
 on the line of the old mail route between 
 London and Holyhead, which was im- 
 proved at great expense in the days of 
 Telford, under the direction of parliamen- 
 tary commissioners. But the runs are so 
 many and so interesting in all directions 
 
106 A BICYCLE TOUR 
 
 over England — excepting, perhaps, parts 
 of Norfolk and Suffolk in the east — that 
 no fixed line of travel can be prescribed, 
 but each tourist must choose for himself. 
 If a centre is to be chosen, take either 
 Coventry or London. 
 
 As to the expense of bicycle travelling in 
 England, it depends so much on the rider 
 himself, that perhaps no satisfactory answer 
 can be given. We did not travel under the 
 auspices of the Bicycle Touring Club, but 
 went to the best inns and hotels, so far as 
 we knew, and got the best of what we could, 
 at the same time travelling prudently. I 
 have before me hotel bills from different 
 parts of England ; but, not even with their 
 aid, can I tell accurately what our expenses 
 were. This, however, can be said, that it 
 is safe to allow four dollars a day ; the ex- 
 penses would often be less, — at times, per- 
 haps, more. Good food, and plenty of it, 
 is indispensable on such a tour, as well as 
 
IN ENGLAND AND WALES. IO7 
 
 a good bed and plenty of sleep. Provi- 
 sion should be made for accidents to ma- 
 chine and person. The riding-suit should 
 be of a dark rather than light cloth. There 
 is more rain and mud in England than in 
 our country ; and, in riding, clothes are 
 more apt to be soiled there. Warm under- 
 clothing is needed ; for in summer it is much 
 cooler in England than here. In the mid- 
 dle of the day we often found it warm ; 
 and, while riding then, I used to take off 
 my blouse and strap it on to the handle 
 bar with a little shawl-strap, which I have 
 always found very convenient for that use. 
 Good riding-maps are necessary ; those re- 
 duced from the Ordnance Survey are the 
 best, and can be had as before mentioned. 
 Some advise taking a pair of serge trou- 
 sers, which pack small, " to enable one to 
 go about without attracting that attention 
 which is the lot of any one clad in polo cap 
 and knee breeches ; a costume, which, how- 
 
IOS BICYCLE TOUR IN ENGLAND AND WALES. 
 
 ever appropriate near a bicycle, is objec- 
 tionable apart from it." However, variety 
 of costume, and dress adapted to the vari- 
 ous sports, is so common abroad, that it 
 seemed to me less notice is taken there 
 than here of one's apparel, provided it is 
 becoming. 
 
 In conclusion, let me say that a bicycle 
 tour of any length abroad is not all sun- 
 shine and delight, but means the overcom- 
 ing of many obstacles, making the best of 
 rainy weather and strong head winds, put- 
 ting up with the peculiarities of another 
 country, and, above all, the constant exer- 
 cise of pluck, patience, and consideration, — 
 traits which it was my good fortune to see 
 daily exhibited by my young companion 
 on this tour. 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 I. 
 
 PRACTICAL BICYCLING ADVICE. 
 
 The following is from " The Bicyclist's Pocket 
 Book and Diary," published in London in 1879. 
 The suggestions are sensible, and for the most 
 part as applicable in America as in England : — 
 
 No. 1. Its Value as an Exercise. 
 
 Bicycling has now lived down the prejudice which, 
 from a medical point of view, existed against it. It is 
 admitted that the idea of rupture being produced by it 
 is simply nonsense. Taken, as all exercise should be, 
 judiciously and in moderation, it is one of, if not tire 
 best, exercise of the day. Its special benefits are, that 
 it increases the circulation ; works more muscles than 
 are worked in any other exercise ; amuses the mind by 
 the places which can be visited by its means ; gives the 
 lungs a greater change of air than could ordinarily be 
 obtained ; induces strength of nerve and powers of self- 
 possession; stimulates the appetite, and last, but not 
 
HO APPENDIX. 
 
 least, is an almost infallible remedy for a sluggish liver. 
 The art of riding can be easily acquired by any person 
 sufficiently active for the ordinary duties of life. There 
 is no limit to the age at which bicycling can be learnt ; 
 the only drawback to an elderly man acquiring the knowl- 
 edge is the fact that he cannot, as a rule, stand, with 
 impunity, the preliminary falls which every adult learner 
 must experience more or less. A boy of eight or nine can 
 be taught without falls, because he can literally be caught 
 when falling, if proper attention is given to the task ; 
 but it is different with adults. There is, perhaps, no 
 person who derives so much pleasure from bicycling as 
 the man who has been accustomed to active exercise on 
 the river, or in the cricket or football field, and who has 
 abandoned those pastimes on reaching " the thirties." 
 The only persons for whom it is undesirable to learn 
 are persons suffering from heart disease or consump- 
 tion ; all others may ride not only with impunity, but 
 with great physical advantage. 
 
 No. 2. Choice of a Machine. 
 
 To say, as a hard and fast rule, that a roadster ma- 
 chine should be heavy or light; should never exceed 
 50 inches in the driving wheel; or should be regulated 
 by a man's height, or even by his length of leg, is an 
 exploded theory. 1st. A light machine, if well made, 
 will run as easily over a rough road as a heavy one ; it 
 only requires more careful riding ; i. e. y instead of sitting 
 
PRACTICAL BICYCLING ADVICE. I I I 
 
 heavily on the saddle, as could be done on the heavy- 
 machine, it is necessary, by leaning on the handles and 
 keeping the weight partially on the treadles, to humor 
 the light machine. The question between a 3 5 -pounder 
 and a 52-pounder is therefore merely one of the rider ; 
 y but for the novice we certainly say unhesitatingly — 
 " for the first year at least ride the heavy machine." 
 Nine men out of ten will eventually take to a light ma- 
 chine, which tells most favorably in comparison with a 
 heavy one on a long journey or a smooth road. A 
 novice, unless he is exceptionally active, should never 
 ride, at first, his full size of machine, because most of a 
 novice's tumbles and falls are in mounting. A man 
 should really be measured, so to speak, for his machine. 
 That is, his height is nothing to go by, as some men of 
 equal height are long in the body and short in the legs, 
 and vice versa. Thus a man of 5 feet 7 inches may 
 ride a 5 6 -inch, while a 5 foot 9 inch man may be lim- 
 ited to a 52-inch. Nor is the length of leg an infallible 
 criterion, as, unless a tall man is well knit, his legs can- 
 not be utilized to their full length. In purchasing a 
 machine, therefore, the novice will do well to ride a 
 strong, heavy machine at first, and, when he becomes 
 an accomplished rider, to invest in a light machine by a 
 good maker, who has a reputation to lose. No machine 
 should be without a brake. The neatest, most powerful, 
 and only reliable brake is that applied to the front 
 wheel, and by far the safest front- wheel brake is the 
 " grip brake," as the power of applying it can be used 
 
112 APPENDIX. 
 
 with more delicacy than in any brake worked by re- 
 volving the handle of the bicycle. As the principle of 
 a bicycle is tension, not inward thrust, there is no extra 
 rigidity secured by spokes screwed direct into the hub 
 as against those simply nutted. This is entirely a mat- 
 ter of taste. It will be seen that there is no inward 
 strain on the wheel, when it is considered that, if there 
 were, the spokes in the felloe might occasionally pro- 
 trude and push the rubber off. The best bearings are 
 ball bearings. The bearings of a hind wheel must be 
 adjustable. On other points a purchaser must be guided 
 by his own judgment, but he cannot go far wrong if he 
 goes to a well-known and respectable firm. 
 
 No. 3. On Touring. 
 
 A companion is a very desirable adjunct to a tour, 
 but by no means a necessity. In fact, provided a man 
 knew that he would find genial companions at every 
 resting-place for the night, he might dispense with a 
 companion on the road, as that luxury frequently en- 
 tails delays when one is fresh and stern chases when 
 one is weary, the chance of meeting with a man of 
 equal speed being rare. If a companion be chosen, 
 however, he should be a man of even temper, and as 
 nearly equal tastes as possible, both as to sight-seeing, 
 expenditure, and speed. For the ordinary tourist, the 
 best "wardrobe " is a riding suit of blue serge, with a 
 straw or deerstalker hat, as the latter can be worn any- 
 
PRACTICAL BICYCLING ADVICE. I I 3 
 
 where. A spare warm jersey, flannel shirt, and a thin 
 pair of serge trousers (which pack up small), with comb, 
 tooth-brush, collars, handkerchief, and necktie, will be 
 found sufficient alike for comfort, and to enable one to 
 go about without attracting that attention which is the 
 lot of any one clad in polo cap and knee breeches, a 
 costume which, however appropriate near a bicycle, is 
 objectionable apart from it. Four is a better number 
 for a tour than two, for many reasons, the principal of 
 which are that one's companions can be changed, and 
 that a party of four are more likely to get attention in 
 the way of specially prepared meals, &c, than one or 
 two travelling alone. It should be remembered that 
 excessive fatigue, in most men, paralyzes the digestive 
 system, while exercise, moderated in proportion to one's 
 strength, increases the working of that organization. 
 Men who can ride, day after day, scathless, over give- 
 and-take roads, more than 50 miles a journey, are ex- 
 ceptional. The better system is to do 70 one day, if a 
 chance offers, and only 30 the next day. One day's 
 rest in seven is not sufficient to thoroughly enjoy a 
 tour ; there ought to be two days' rest. Never carry a 
 knapsack; it is unsightly, top heavy, and generally 
 worrying. Always remember that a few pounds extra 
 wheeled on a machine are not felt as compared to what 
 they would be if carried on one's back. The Multum 
 in Parvo is unquestionably the best luggage carrier. 
 As "legs over the handles" is the safest manner of 
 resting those limbs downhill, it is undesirable, if possi- 
 
114 APPENDIX. 
 
 ble to avoid it, to have any luggage on the steering bar. 
 A large " Multum " will carry the articles we have 
 already named. The way to thoroughly enjoy a tour 
 is to go exactly where one fancies, without reference to 
 roads. If walking has to be done, it is no more fatigu- 
 ing to walk and wheel a bicycle than it is to walk alone. 
 Beyond an occasional glass of ale, stimulants should be 
 avoided when on the road, as they cause the rider to 
 overtax his strength. In the evening, after the work is 
 over, they can be indulged in, — moderately of course. 
 The majority of men require good, generous diet under 
 exertion, if prolonged for more than one day. A small 
 box of powdered fuller's earth will prove a great boon 
 to the majority of bicycling tourists. It should always 
 be taken into consideration, before starting on a tour, 
 whether the main object of it is to see the places or 
 simply to fly over good roads. Never part with your 
 luggage or send it by train. Never ride at your top 
 speed when touring, or fatigue will result. Examine 
 your tyres every morning before starting, and touch up 
 the cement with a hot poker if necessary. Try all nuts 
 before starting. Keep the hind-wheel bearings carefully 
 adjusted, and never forget to tighten up the saddle 
 thumbscrews. Never ask any one but a bicyclist what 
 roads are like. 
 
 No. 4. On the Road. 
 
 After learning to keep a bicycle on end, and to pro- 
 pel it without fatigue, the rider's task is by no means 
 
PRACTICAL BICYCLING ADVICE. I I 5 
 
 complete. He has to learn what may be called the 
 " coachmanship " of bicycling. It is a want of, or a 
 disregard of, this knowledge that usually brings riders to 
 grief. It may be divided into two parts, viz., that which 
 is required for one's own safety and that which is re- 
 quired for other people's. First of all, learn to keep to 
 the left [right in the United States] invariably, whether 
 the road be rough or smooth, when meeting a vehicle. 
 Always, in overtaking it, pass a vehicle on its right 
 [left] side, no matter how easy it may appear to con- 
 tinue your course to its left [right]. Led horses should 
 be given a wide berth, and always passed on the side 
 on which the man is walking or riding. Vehicles and 
 horses should never be passed by a party on both sides 
 at once. Never shout at pedestrians, but give notice 
 of approach either by a bell or by coughing, or in some 
 other inoffensive way. Always carry a bell and a lamp 
 [the lamp, if you are to ride at night, — not otherwise] ; 
 they are useful, and in many counties compulsory by 
 law. Whistles and gongs are almost useless. Bugles 
 are very effective, if well blown, but too noisy and ob- 
 trusive for single riders or small parties. Never ride on 
 the path [sidewalk]. Never take your feet off the 
 treadles until you can see the bottom of a hill, no mat- 
 ter how well you know it. Remember, if the wind be 
 fair, you will require more brake power at hills you may 
 have easily descended before. On greasy, newly- wa- 
 tered macadam, avoid close proximity to vehicles ; turn 
 in the knees, stick tight to the handles, and steer by 
 
Il6 APPENDIX. 
 
 these means, carefully avoiding leaning over to either 
 side. Legs over the handles is the only safe way of 
 flying a hill. Never hold your breath in riding up hill ; 
 it has a tendency to develop heart disease, by closing 
 the lungs against the pumping of the blood. When 
 running suddenly into stones at night, stick to the ma- 
 chine, and keep it going; never give in till actually 
 down. Never needlessly chaff any one ; it may be 
 only the exuberance of that vitality which athletic exer- 
 cise induces ; but outsiders will make no allowance for 
 such a feeling. Always remember that, whereas a bicy- 
 cle cannot be pulled up to a dead stand like an ordinary 
 vehicle [except by some experts 1 ], it is incumbent on 
 every rider to dismount, under circumstances that ne- 
 cessitate a stoppage, and that, for not doing this in a 
 crowd, a rider at Battersea underwent " a month's hard 
 labor." 
 
 No. 5. Things to be Remembered. 
 
 Never to stir out without a spanner [wrench] and 
 oil-can. Always to trim your lamp and provide matches. 
 To tighten up the saddle-screws with plyers or spanner, 
 and not to trust to the fingers. That buckled wheels, 
 by pulling, will generally spring all right again. That 
 nothing wears so well, if required to tie on a loose tyre, 
 as ordinary twine. That gravel roads should be chosen 
 for riding in dry, and macadam roads in wet, weather. 
 
 1 Mr. Owen, of Washington, stood still on his bicycle two 
 hours and twenty-two minutes, when he dismounted voluntarily. 
 
PRACTICAL BICYCLING ADVICE. 117 
 
 That india-rubber does not slip on ice. That a leather- 
 strip tyre does not slip on greasy macadam or stones. 
 That those who perspire freely should always carry a dry 
 flannel shirt for a change. That a little extra weight on 
 the machine makes very little difference. That an oily 
 rag rubbed over bright work in time will prevent rust. 
 That there should be no funking when mounting. That 
 the backbone is the safest mode of dismounting. That 
 good oil is the cheapest in the end. 
 
n8 APPENDIX. 
 
 II. 
 HINTS ON CONTINENTAL TOURING. 
 
 The following extracts from an article with 
 the above title, printed in an English publication 
 called the "Wheelman's Year Book," for 1881, 
 may be of interest. The writer has explored on 
 his bicycle " about thirty counties in England 
 and Scotland, and the greater part of middle and 
 western Europe." 
 
 If I were asked where one would be able to obtain 
 the most advantage from the use of a bicycle for a short 
 holiday of, say a month or three weeks, I should reply 
 in favor of Switzerland and the Black Forest. Should 
 expense be of little moment, the express train could be 
 taken right into Switzerland, a week or ten days spent 
 there, and then the train taken home again. The best 
 pieces of road in that district are between Sallanches 
 and Chamounix, Martigny and Lausanne, Lausanne and 
 Geneva, Yverdon and Neuchatel, Zweissimmen and 
 Thun, Interlachen and Lucerne, and Zurich and ScharT- 
 hausen. All the other roads which border the Swiss 
 lakes are generally in as good condition as an average 
 English road ; but in wet weather, where there is much 
 traffic (especially from Geneva to Sallanches), the 
 
HINTS ON CONTINENTAL TOURING. II9 
 
 roads become very heavy, and, for a day or so after- 
 wards, have that roughness of dried mud which causes 
 such unpleasant jolting. With a very few exceptions, 
 wherever there is a service of diligences, there will be 
 found a good road, and especially where the route is a 
 hilly one, for the mountain roads, being made at con- 
 siderable cost, are so constructed as to remain in excel- 
 lent condition for long periods. 
 
 I have often been asked how I manage about the 
 mountains, when in Switzerland, with a bicycle, and 
 cannot attribute such a senseless question to anything 
 but ignorance of the country. Where there is a road 
 good enough for carriages, of course the bicycle can go, 
 but, in cases of climbing, where all have to go on foot, 
 no sane person would wish to take a bicycle, any more 
 than he would ask to be driven in the Chamounix dili- 
 gence to the top of Mont Blanc. 
 
 My reasons for first alluding to Switzerland are that it 
 is the place most generally longed for by those whose 
 time or means will not permit wandering in more dis- 
 tant parts ; that it is a country well laid out for tourists, 
 and therefore not presenting so many difficulties in the 
 way of language or such peculiarities as beset the inex- 
 perienced traveller in less frequented localities, and that 
 it so abounds with the glories of nature as amply to 
 repay all efforts to see it. Next in order, perhaps, I 
 should put the Black Forest. Here we find a higher 
 average of quality for the roads, but less grandeur in 
 the scenery, and more need of acquaintance with the 
 
120 APPENDIX. 
 
 language (German), as the hotels are at greater dis- 
 tances from one another, and less visited by English- 
 speaking people. Three or four hundred miles of ex- 
 cellent bicycling may, however, be there obtained, with 
 a most adequate repayment of charming landscapes, 
 filled with dark mountains, wonderful woods, and rich 
 gorges. 
 
 France is the land of racing paths. Here we have 
 roads on which twelve miles an hour can be made with- 
 out difficulty, and fifteen miles in a single hour is a not 
 very extraordinary accomplishment. Every one who 
 loves a good road and "making the pace," should try 
 a few hundred miles in France. But for myself, having 
 been across that country from Dieppe to Strasburg, and 
 from Lausanne to Boulogne, I find that the attraction 
 of turning my wheel with exquisite ease has now ceased 
 to be sufficient compensation for riding on a road al- 
 most as monotonous as an interminable extension of 
 the broad track at Lillie Bridge, although my first hun- 
 dred miles on a Gallic highway will always be a pleasant 
 remembrance. The more hilly parts of France, how- 
 ever, must always furnish a very considerable amount of 
 enjoyment, such as the neighborhoods of Rouen, Mag- 
 ny, Poissy, Ligny, Nancy, Metz, Dijon, and Pontarlier, 
 while from repute I might name the Valley of the Loire 
 and other districts of the South, where the roads are 
 said to be equally good. 
 
 The Belgian roads are rideable, but railway travelling 
 is so cheap and the country so much more noted for 
 
HINTS ON CONTINENTAL TOURING. 121 
 
 particular spots of interest than for any beauty of 
 scenery, that it will scarcely reward a bicyclist unless 
 he is making a grand tour, and merely passes through 
 on his way to fairer lands. 
 
 The roads on the banks of the Rhine are good, but 
 the steamboat is inexpensive and affords a better view 
 of the celebrated surroundings, whilst above Mayence 
 the country is flat for a considerable distance, and 
 somewhat similar to the Thames Valley district. 
 
 Further eastward we have the Harz Mountains, where 
 several hundred miles of excellent roads may be found, 
 bearing in mind that here, as elsewhere, the finest sur- 
 faces are not in the plains, but among and over the 
 mountains. The road over the Brocken, for instance, 
 is one of the best, whilst towards Eisleben parts are 
 here and there unrideable. 
 
 For some distance south of Leipsic there is a great 
 sameness of country, and unless the bicyclist should 
 have an insuperable objection to leaving the road, he 
 would do well to pay a few marks to the railway pro- 
 prietors, for visiting Dresden, Prague, Ratisbon, Nurem- 
 burg, etc. (I say proprietors, as the railways in these 
 regions do not always appertain to companies or the 
 state, but bear the names of archdukes, crown princes, 
 and other tremendous personages of that sort.) 
 
 The roads in the valley of the Danube are passable, 
 but between Passau and Buda-Pesth a ride in a steam- 
 boat is a good investment. 
 
 Taking another strip of country to the south, we have 
 
12 2 APPENDIX. 
 
 Styria, Carinthia, and the Tyrol. Here the roads are 
 very variable. Sometimes one can make ten or twelve 
 miles in an hour, and at others not four miles, the roads 
 being unrideable. For instance, from Vienna to Mod- 
 ling, there are ruts nine inches deep, on the bottom of 
 which, however, a bicycle wheel might run were it not 
 for stones and smaller sub-ruts (if I may so call them) 
 which break up the surface formed by numbers of 
 broad-tyred cart-wheels ; and in the neighborhood of 
 Bruck-am-Mur and Graz pieces of road will be found 
 with many loose stones and smaller ruts, which do not 
 conduce to the stability of any machine, and most cer- 
 tainly jeopardize the springs and other delicate parts of 
 second-rate or lightly-built ones. When I was in Aus- 
 tria I constantly came upon several miles of loose 
 stones ; once, notably between Mond See and Salzburg, 
 three hours were lost in traversing fourteen miles, the 
 sides of the road being marshy, and the road itself well 
 adapted for destroying the stoutest shoes. This is what 
 is called Kaiserstrasse, and corresponds to our King's 
 highway. On several occasions I was advised to take 
 a particular route, by which a Kaiserstrasse would be 
 traversed, the natives naming it as if the perfection of 
 road-making, and so alluring me to my fate. The result 
 of my experiences in this respect is to make me warn 
 all bicyclists against such spoke-loosening, spring-break- 
 ing, tyre-cutting devices, and to advise them to take any 
 road but a Kaiserstrasse, if a choice be possible. Apart 
 from these drawbacks there are many good pieces of 
 
HINTS ON CONTINENTAL TOURING. 1 23 
 
 road in Styria and Carinthia, and the country is wild 
 and grand. 
 
 The roads of the Tyrol are generally very suitable 
 for bicycling. Those in the northern portions are like 
 the Bavarian highways, whilst towards Innsbruck one 
 finds a tendency to improvement, until in some places 
 the quality of a good French road is attained. I gen- 
 erally found that from seven to ten miles an hour could 
 be averaged on the whole of some three hundred miles 
 which I rode in that district. 
 
 Just a few words on Northern Italy, and then I shall 
 have exhausted the localities which I have traversed by 
 bicycle, as I have not yet ventured into Russia, Turkey, 
 or Spain. 
 
 After rain the roads south of the Alps will generally 
 be in very good condition ; but in the summer a few 
 days of dry weather, where there is much traffic, will 
 provide two or three inches of dust. I do not remem- 
 ber finding it necessary to walk any portions in this 
 part, but certainly the Tuscan roads are rather better 
 than those more towards the centre of the great plain, 
 and westward to Cremona and Milan. In the Italian 
 lake district the roads are similar to those of Switzer- 
 land. 
 
 In concluding this part of my subject I can only 
 repeat that, as a rule, the roads of the continent are 
 much better in mountainous districts than the plains ; 
 and that if a bicycle rider is willing now and then to 
 push his machine for a considerable distance, and is not 
 
124 APPENDIX. 
 
 desirous of such a high average speed as is made at 
 home, he will not regret taking his trusty steed for a 
 thousand miles or so in strange countries. I have three 
 times crossed the Alps with my bicycle, and have not 
 even then had at any time more than fifteen miles to 
 go on foot. The Brenner Pass could almost be ridden 
 without a dismount. I rode with two companions from 
 Innsbruck to the summit in three and a quarter hours, 
 a distance of twenty-three miles up-hill, and only walked 
 about half a mile, whilst the eighty miles' descent into 
 Italy was accomplished at about ten miles an hour, only 
 a few short steep pieces having to be walked. . . . 
 
 A very powerful brake is essential, and it is well if it 
 can be applied with ease for half an hour at a time, 
 otherwise the machine may start off in the middle of a 
 twelve-mile hill. Two inches of rake to the machine 
 are absolutely necessary, as the most useful accomplish- 
 ment abroad is the careful descent of long steep hills. 
 Those riders who seem to think that good bicycling 
 consists in being able to ride a semi-racing machine 
 with a perpendicular fork up a hill, will find themselves 
 and machines at a discount amongst the mountains, 
 for where there is a hill too steep for an ordinary road- 
 ster, it is generally too steep, and also too long, for any 
 other sort of machine, and frequent descents of several 
 (sometimes ten or twelve) miles are not safely or com- 
 fortably made by back treadling. 
 
 As regards personal equipment, perhaps I had better 
 state what I take myself: one strong light jacket and 
 
HINTS ON CONTINENTAL TOURING. 1 25 
 
 trousers to match, one pair of knee-breeches, a waist- 
 coat, one pair of shoes, one pair of thick stockings, two 
 pairs of thin stockings, one pair of socks, one muffler 
 or silk scarf, two merino vests, two pair thin cotton 
 drawers, one night-shirt, four pocket-handkerchiefs, 
 hair-brush, tooth-brush, tooth-powder, soap, and pass- 
 port. These articles I carry in a knapsack measuring 
 13 X 10 X 4 inches. The knapsack should be pro- 
 vided with canes, and not basket work, the latter con- 
 trivance, which appears to answer well enough for a 
 pedestrian, being, according to my own experience 
 and that of several friends, most uncomfortable for a 
 bicycle rider. The articles carried should be of light 
 material, especially the trousers, for reasons which will 
 now appear. 
 
 I have carried seven pounds on my back for many 
 hundreds of miles at home and abroad without incon- 
 venience ; but last season, in consequence of having 
 some articles thicker, the weight was increased, and 
 instead of ceasing to be a burden after the first two 
 or three days, it was felt during the whole trip, and a 
 friend of mine has since experimented in weight-carry- 
 ing, and finds that there is a certain weight which a 
 man can carry on a bicycle (it may, of course, be more 
 or less than my seven pounds, according to strength) 
 without feeling any inconvenience, but that an ex- 
 tremely slight increase is like "the last straw," which 
 we hear so much of, and will make the pack a burden 
 even to the end of the journey. 
 
1 26 APPENDIX. 
 
 I may here again allude to a point which is touched 
 upon above, namely, that any one who has not pre- 
 viously carried weight will feel a strong inclination dur- 
 ing the first two or three days to pitch his knapsack on 
 the side of the road, and take his chance of a change 
 of apparel j but that after a little perseverance he will 
 cease to notice the weight, and even find it a great 
 assistance in shifting his centre of gravity when neces- 
 sary. 
 
 Perhaps I may be pardoned if I state what is prob- 
 ably obvious to some ; namely, the mode of procedure 
 with the prescribed outfit. When riding, the knee- 
 breeches, one pair of drawers and stockings are in 
 use, the socks and trousers inside the knapsack, the 
 waistcoat and muffler under the outside flap, so that 
 they may be handy to slip on when the temperature 
 changes, or whilst making a halt. When staying in a 
 town, of course, the trousers and socks come into use. 
 It will also be found convenient to put on the spare 
 clean underclothing when located for the evening, and 
 hang the others (which are usually damp after a long 
 ride) in some airy place in the hotel bedroom. When 
 the journey is resumed, these latter can be used again, 
 and so on until in a few days they will require washing. 
 This accommodation is easily obtained where a stay of 
 over twenty-four hours is made, and then the washed 
 garments come in for evening wear, and the others 
 take day duty until their turn for washing and promo- 
 tion comes round. . . . 
 
HINTS ON CONTINENTAL TOURING. 12 J 
 
 If a very long period is to be occupied in the tour, of 
 course a portmanteau can be sent from place to place, 
 and the arrangements as to clothing considerably mod- 
 ified, but great delay frequently occurs in the trans- 
 mission, and, if a tourist intends to remain in a place 
 any time less than three days, he had better not risk 
 having his arrangements put out by looking for his 
 portmanteau, which may not have turned up as soon 
 as expected. 
 
 The head-gear is the only point now remaining in 
 this division of the subject. I wear a strong, broad- 
 brimmed, boating straw hat, and, when the heat is ex- 
 cessive, improvise an additional protection by first 
 placing a wet handkerchief (once folded) on my head, 
 so as to cover my neck. Others find a straw helmet 
 very comfortable ; and I have seen a polo cap, with a 
 linen flap attached as for shooting, giving considerable 
 satisfaction. This last arrangement cannot, however, 
 afford any protection for the eyes, on whose behalf 
 tinted spectacles or eye-glasses will in most cases be- 
 come necessary when on the dazzling roads, and in the 
 bright atmosphere of Switzerland, Austria, Italy, or 
 Southern France. . . . 
 
 Still one point remains, which might more properly, 
 perhaps, have been taken at the commencement, name- 
 ly, — finding the way. This is a very simple matter all 
 over France, but, as one proceeds further eastward, 
 reliable maps and a cyclometer will avoid much annoy- 
 ance. The natives of Germany, especially, have often 
 
128 APPENDIX. 
 
 a very indistinct idea of where they are living, and the 
 unfortunate traveller may hear that a place is two stunde 
 (about six miles) distant, and, after proceeding another 
 mile, be told that it is five stunde (fifteen miles). 
 Where they have not reached the state of civilization 
 indicated by the metric system of measurement, they 
 only hazard the number of " hours," which they sup- 
 pose, or have heard, that it would take, or did take, a 
 person (evidently a great-grandfather in some instances) 
 to traverse the road on foot. 
 
 The maps given in Baedeker's guide-books will most- 
 ly answer all purposes (if the skeleton of the tour has 
 been previously well studied), the roads marked with 
 double lines, as a rule, being quite suitable for bicy- 
 cling. A reference to the parenthetical notes of the 
 altitudes of different points given in Baedeker's descrip- 
 tions of the routes will enable one to anticipate gradi- 
 ents. The boats of the General Steam Navigation 
 Company furnish the most economical mode of reach- 
 ing the continent, as the Company have reduced their 
 charges for the carriage of bicycles to, a very reasonable 
 scale. On French railways the only charge for carrying 
 a machine is the booking fee of ten centimes ; else- 
 where, it is charged as luggage, but rarely at such a 
 high rate as in England. 
 
 Such as may have been sufficiently interested in these 
 hints as to read them, if they have not already had 
 practical experience in the matter, will have observed 
 that bicycling on the continent varies in several respects 
 
HINTS ON CONTINENTAL TOURING. 1 29 
 
 from bicycling in England, and, moreover, they will find 
 that it affords opportunities for observations of native 
 life very far in excess of those obtainable by almost 
 any other means. The traveller by rail and diligence is, 
 to a great degree, compelled to go on the beaten track, 
 visiting only places that have lost their original strange- 
 ness through the constant influx of foreigners, whilst the 
 bicyclist combines a great part of the speed of this 
 class with the freedom of the pedestrian, and can rap- 
 idly move from one spot to another, at the same time 
 that he enjoys the charm of localities comparatively 
 undisturbed by the ordinary tourist. 
 
 9 
 
1 30 APPENDIX. 
 
 III. 
 
 INCREASE OF BICYCLE RIDING. 
 
 The extraordinary increase of bicycle riding 
 in the past few years may be inferred when it is 
 known that : — 
 
 The amount of capital invested in the manufacture 
 of bicycles and tricycles in England is estimated at be- 
 tween seven and eight millions of dollars, and in the 
 United States it is about five hundred thousand dol- 
 lars. There are over four hundred different kinds 
 of bicycles manufactured in England alone. 
 
 The number of bicycle and tricycle riders in Eng- 
 land is estimated at 250,000; in the United States at 
 8,000, and rapidly increasing. 
 
 The number of bicycle clubs, so far as known, is, in 
 
 England 360 
 
 United States 130 
 
 Scotland 34 
 
 France 20 
 
 Wales 9 
 
 Ireland 8 
 
 Other countries 9 
 
 Total 570 
 
TABLE OF THE FASTEST TIMES. 131 
 
 IV. 
 
 TABLE OF THE FASTEST TIMES 
 
 RECORDED AS HAVING BEEN MADE UPON THE BICYCLE 
 
 by English professionals. 
 
 Dis.in 
 
 Miles. 
 
 Time. 
 h. m. s. 
 
 Name. 
 
 Date. 
 
 Place. 
 
 I 
 
 2.46 
 
 F. Cooper 
 
 May 26, '80 
 
 Cambridge 
 
 2 
 
 5-36* 
 
 J. Keen 
 
 May 21, '79 
 
 a 
 
 3 
 
 8.54I 
 
 
 May 3, : 77 
 
 Wolverhampton 
 
 4 
 
 12. 1 
 
 
 a 
 
 a 
 
 5 
 
 15.14 
 
 
 Oct. 23, '78 
 
 Cambridge 
 
 6 
 
 I9.I9i 
 
 
 Oct. 13/79 
 
 Wolverhampton 
 
 7 
 
 22. 36* 
 
 
 tt 
 
 ti 
 
 8 
 
 25.43I 
 
 
 it 
 
 it 
 
 9 
 
 28.58I 
 
 
 tt 
 
 a 
 
 10 
 
 3 2 - 11 ! 
 
 
 it 
 
 tt 
 
 15 
 
 48.191 
 
 
 a 
 
 a 
 
 20 
 
 1.4.42! 
 
 
 a 
 
 a 
 
 2 5 
 
 1.24.2 
 
 D. Stanton 
 
 Aug. 9, '79 
 
 Cardiff 
 
 5° 
 
 2.51.0 
 
 W. Phillips 
 
 Aug. 2, '80 
 
 Dublin 
 
 100 
 
 5-5 r -7 
 
 G. W. Waller 
 
 May 3, : 8o 
 
 Edinburgh 
 
 262 
 
 18.0.0 
 
 a 
 
 Sept. 1-7, '79 
 
 Agr'l Hall, London 
 
 1000 
 
 73-45- l8 
 
 11 
 
 a 
 
 a 
 
 1404 
 
 107.0.0 
 (6 days.) 
 
 a 
 
 a 
 
 tt 
 
 Two hundred and twenty-two miles on a bicycle, without a dismount, 
 was accomplished in eighteen hours by T. Andrews, in March, 1880, at 
 the Agricultural Hall, London. The greatest distance ever ridden in 
 six days on a bicycle was at Alexandra Rink, Derby, by S. Rawson, — 
 fifteen hundred miles. When David Stanton, an English professional, 
 commenced his bicycle ride of one thousand miles in six days, he started 
 at six o'clock in the morning and rode forty-four miles before breakfast. 
 
132 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 V. 
 
 TABLE OF THE FASTEST TIMES 
 
 RECORDED AS HAVING BEEN MADE UPON THE BICYCLE 
 
 by English amateurs. 
 
 Dis. in 
 
 Miles. 
 
 Time, 
 h.m s. 
 
 Name. 
 
 Date. 
 
 Place. 
 
 I 
 
 2.47 
 
 Hon. I. Keith Falconer 
 
 May 26, 'So 
 
 Cambridge 
 
 2 
 
 5-36i 
 
 << 
 
 May 21, '79 
 
 « 
 
 3 
 
 8.541 
 
 H. L. Cortis 
 
 Aug. 23/79 
 
 Leicester 
 
 4 
 
 11. sn 
 
 
 it 
 
 a 
 
 5 
 
 14-391 
 
 
 Aug. 4, '80 
 
 Stoke-on-Trent 
 
 6 
 
 i7-53§ 
 
 
 Aug. 2 1, 'So 
 
 Surbiton 
 
 7 
 
 20.52 
 
 
 u 
 
 a 
 
 8 
 
 2 3-57 
 
 
 a 
 
 ft 
 
 9 
 
 26.59I 
 
 
 a 
 
 u 
 
 IO 
 
 29.54* 
 
 
 a 
 
 u 
 
 i5 
 
 45-81 
 
 
 Sept. 2, '80 
 
 a 
 
 20 
 
 1.038! 
 
 
 Sept. 22, 'So 
 
 a 
 
 2 5 
 
 1. 16.411 
 
 
 a 
 
 it 
 
 50 
 
 2 -54-35 
 
 J. F. Griffith 
 
 July 17, '80 
 
 u 
 
ROAD RIDING. I 33 
 
 VI. 
 ROAD RIDING. 
 
 Long Distances in Twenty-four Hours. 
 
 The following list of known performances on 
 bicycles, over the highways of Great Britain, 
 for ever puts at rest any doubt as to the prac- 
 ticability of the bicycle, and reveals some of the 
 astonishing feats which are so common abroad 
 in the use of the bicycle as a mode of locomo- 
 tion. The list is compiled from " The Cyclist," 
 published in London, March 9, 1881, and in- 
 cludes only fifty performances out of five times 
 that number, as published, of a hundred miles 
 and over, all of which (with many not recorded) 
 are known to have been accomplished in less 
 than a single day : — 
 
134 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 » 
 
 
 
 
 
 .B 
 
 a 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 O 
 
 
 
 PQ 
 
 o 
 
 >> 
 
 
 
 . rt 
 
 a 
 
 CO 
 
 o 
 
 S 
 
 CO 
 
 H 
 
 o 
 
 CO 
 
 £ 
 
 W 
 
 fe 
 
 O 
 
 < 
 
 2 
 
 o 
 
 U 
 
 o 
 
 
 a E § 
 
 « 
 
 I I 
 
 I I 
 
 ifi cfl o 
 OH) 1 *; 
 
 -»-i , TO l* 
 
 "o5 cn p o 
 
 _, <u >-■ o 
 
 ^« 5 § 
 
 •^ ^ -^ ^1 
 
 ,« r- C « 
 
 T3 >>~ D 
 
 05 g 3 G 
 
 O j£ rt O 
 
 w 
 
 bCi2 
 
 O^ 
 
 & 
 
 « 
 
 <u 
 
 :-t 
 
 ~J 
 
 ho 
 
 
 
 C 
 
 
 O 
 
 
 n 
 
 5 
 
 Pi ; 
 
 
 
 
 ! 2 ° 
 
 P5 
 
 b-5. 
 
 .H* 
 
 
 b w> 
 
 
 P^ <u 
 
 i^j 
 
 iJ 
 
 CO 
 
 b ..a 
 
 +i J=! CO 
 ,fi (U M 
 M<Bt3 
 
 •:- cfl G 
 
 1-1 i- b 
 
 pq 0) ro 
 
 „«) uT 
 tzP-t J> 
 o .S 
 * J-Tj3 
 
 ■C iico 
 
 PQ 
 
 i i T3 
 
 asl! 
 
 "ooc 
 
 H 
 
 O 1- 
 g C "in 
 
 5 o c o 
 
 Q 
 
 
 o M 
 
 LO 
 
 
 ^♦i 
 
 =2 a 
 
ROAD RIDING. 
 
 135 
 
 
 T3 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 O 
 
 O . 
 
 >. 
 
 ji 
 
 
 ;-j 
 
 2 .it! 
 43 S'C 
 
 
 >» 
 
 6 
 ro 
 
 > tn 
 
 <u 
 
 cJ 
 hi 
 
 u 
 
 
 
 .2 « 
 
 to S 
 
 3 co 
 
 3 
 
 TO 
 
 43 
 
 1 
 CO 
 
 *B 
 
 TO 
 
 in 
 
 3 
 
 
 § 
 
 Ph(J 
 
 1 i 
 
 ^ 
 
 ^'fiH 
 
 < 
 
 g 
 
 
 deja 
 
 
 
 Hh 
 
 ^ * 
 
 ^ 
 
 fc»— )W 
 
 £ 
 
 cJ 
 
 .3 £ 3 
 
 
 
 1-1^ 
 
 MM 
 
 rt!« 
 
 
 
 
 CO 00 00 
 
 1 
 
 Tt " l 
 
 
 Tf 
 
 1 1 M 
 
 1 
 
 ■^ 
 
 13.3 
 
 
 1 
 
 IH 1 
 
 H | 
 
 
 l 1 -1 
 
 1 
 
 
 3 H a 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 — <u £ 
 
 
 
 H|M 
 
 
 H|« 
 
 
 
 
 3S3 
 
 MflfO 
 
 1 
 
 O t"> 
 
 00 1 
 
 vO 
 
 0>0<t\ 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 &-P° 
 
 N N CM 
 
 1 
 
 CM "1 
 
 l-l 1 
 
 H 
 
 H M M 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 HB 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 to 
 
 
 tn i 
 
 -a 
 
 
 ^J 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 ■73 
 
 
 >* s 
 
 3 
 
 
 <u 
 
 
 ON 
 
 
 rt 
 
 
 c« ni 
 
 TO 
 
 
 g 
 
 
 -4--° 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 aj u a) 
 13 CJ ^ 
 
 '•3 1 
 
 
 hi 
 u 
 > 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 'in tn O 
 
 I 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 44 
 hi 
 
 E 
 <u 
 
 s 
 
 3 
 hi 
 
 42 
 
 3' 
 
 42 
 
 60 
 
 'S.b 
 
 1 
 
 °-ri --5 
 
 hi 
 
 > 
 
 E . 1 
 
 b >> 
 
 TO -Q. 
 3 S 
 
 T3 
 O 
 O 
 60 
 tn 
 
 -a 
 
 T3 
 
 TO 
 O 
 hi 
 
 •n 
 
 - v. c 
 
 - - TO 
 
 h. 
 
 60 
 
 1 
 
 h 
 
 ro— r 
 
 
 ^^S 
 
 
 CO 4-> >-, C3 
 OC0 42 J" 
 
 b * 
 
 TO 
 O 
 
 " " 3 
 
 
 
 i§ 
 
 
 ch a 
 
 b 
 
 C4 
 
 a 
 
 
 C5 
 
 
 a 
 
 3 
 
 S-c 
 
 4- 1 
 
 TO rQ 
 
 2 
 
 >- 
 
 T3 
 C 
 TO 
 
 ^3 60 
 
 44 
 
 CJ 
 TO 
 
 hi 
 
 
 TO 
 
 3 
 
 W 
 
 «. "hi 
 
 CO Ph 
 60 >-. 
 
 "° Si 
 
 s 
 
 60 
 C 
 
 TO G 
 
 2 a3 • 
 
 tn 42 q 
 
 43 
 
 a 
 
 CJ 
 
 00 
 a 
 
 (U 
 
 tn 
 
 0) 
 
 0) 
 
 c 
 
 hi 
 
 O 
 
 h. *• ** 
 "3 . 
 
 T) 3 
 
 43 
 3 
 c «* 
 
 H en 
 |3 O 
 
 h, CJ 
 
 O h3 
 
 Ph 3 
 
 TO 
 
 
 U 
 
 1 * 
 
 ^ . 
 j" y 
 
 •^-iS <U TO 
 
 0) 
 
 "73- <u-^ 
 
 KH C TO 
 
 K o-g 
 
 13 CO O 
 
 CJ 
 
 
 H 
 
 83 
 to 
 
 TO 5 
 
 u a 
 
 O TO 
 
 OJ* .3 
 ,3; cj 3 
 
 u S 
 
 ^ a 
 
 Id O Pj 
 T3 TO TO 
 
 CO 3 O 
 TO "^ ^^c; 
 
 •Sa a § 
 
 t- 2 § 
 
 2 "5 ^ >> 
 
 3- 2 b 
 
 <D »g tn ,3^3 
 *E TO u 'tn TO 
 
 3j2 O TOCO 
 H Oh M 
 
 hi 
 
 TO 
 
 a 
 
 
 3 
 O 
 O 
 < 
 
 
 
 hi 
 <D 
 
 en 
 cu 
 
 "o 
 
 3 
 
 TO 
 
 ' tn 
 
 
 
 
 l-W IH|« 
 
 
 
 •-I1N 
 
 
 en 8 <u 
 
 O 
 
 
 
 cr> 
 
 CO vO 
 
 t^ 
 
 >n iri ro 
 
 
 
 
 lo ioio 
 
 Tf 
 
 n- n 
 
 ro fO 
 
 ro 
 
 ro rof) 
 
 CO 
 
 n~. 
 
 S|"| 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 l-l l-l IH 
 
 w 
 
 M 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ci 
 
 
 
 co 
 
 . O 
 
 • lO 
 
 . M 
 
 
 • »A 
 
 M 00 
 
 c>d 
 
 . ON 
 
 rt 
 
 O <*5 
 
 00 H 
 
 0*N 00 ii vo 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 O " 
 
 r^ . - - 
 
 t~s 
 
 ^ K- 
 
 t^ — 
 
 x> 
 
 D- ID 
 
 3 a 
 
 3 3 
 1—1 l—> 
 
 t>. 
 
 t^ ,., 
 
 
 
 00 ho - s * 
 < 
 
 CO >, 
 
 M 3 
 
 CO >> - 00 >, ■ 
 
 "Jh M "3 
 
 ""3 
 
 M M 3 
 
136 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 
 
 
 c 
 
 s 
 
 
 
 
 B 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 re 
 
 re 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 a 
 
 
 C/J 
 
 
 aj ^ d 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ,3 — .3 
 
 P4 
 
 CU 
 
 £ 
 
 re . 
 
 co cu to 
 
 rt 
 
 u 
 
 ed 
 
 ££ 
 
 C/j^C/3 
 
 <$ 
 
 u 
 
 £ 
 
 Wf^ 
 
 P4P4P4 
 
 E 
 
 +* 
 
 
 
 
 
 re 
 
 
 
 
 _• 
 
 
 en 
 
 u 
 
 (J 
 
 la 
 
 re 
 
 3 
 
 0) 
 
 u 
 
 (55 
 
 
 .aO 
 
 
 
 
 CO 
 
 £ <" 
 
 .3 a 
 
 |— 1 
 
 ti 
 
 H 
 
 E 
 
 E> 
 
 O S« 
 
 £ 
 
 H 
 
 U 
 
 re 
 *— > 
 
 re . 
 
 ^X 
 
 — <u S_. 
 
 nM< 
 
 
 nHCHln 
 
 
 
 
 
 rs-5 
 
 O 
 
 1 
 
 « 1 
 
 I vOO 
 
 ro 1 
 
 Tf m I N w 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 M 1- 1 
 
 1 M M 
 
 w 1 
 
 
 
 «^M 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ~* cu ?> 
 
 H|M 
 
 
 nHM« 
 
 
 
 
 
 "3 S 3 
 
 r^ 
 
 >* 
 
 CN "~> 1 
 
 1 CO CO 
 
 O t*> 
 
 t-> I I * VOO 
 
 fe p£ 
 
 
 
 M -H | 
 
 1 M M 
 
 <N ►» 
 
 H 1 1 M H 
 
 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 13 
 
 CU 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 B 
 
 
 
 
 
 re .c 
 
 13 
 
 *s rt 
 
 
 
 
 CO 
 
 U 
 
 a 
 
 
 15 
 O 
 O 
 bfl 
 to 
 
 13 
 
 ^0 '— 
 
 is 
 
 13 
 
 Ijgs 
 
 .S 
 
 & CU 
 
 fe 
 
 B 
 
 1 1 IJ.S 
 
 - 
 
 S 
 
 . 
 
 rt 
 O 
 
 CO 
 
 5 u 
 
 S <u re 
 
 IB 13 
 
 
 <u 
 
 a 
 
 u 
 
 g >• 
 
 re -j I 
 
 M-< > 1 
 
 M to 
 ET3 
 
 
 43 > 
 
 •rs u 
 
 
 Pi 
 
 3 
 1-. 
 
 13 
 B 
 
 1 °£ 
 1 -c 
 
 13 
 B >- >* 
 
 1 112 8 
 
 - 
 
 
 "3 
 
 re 
 
 13 
 
 CU 
 
 re cu c 
 
 co *r co . 
 13 ^*C =2 
 
 
 
 u 
 
 B 
 
 re 
 
 13 
 
 re x re c« 
 
 
 
 1-1 
 
 £ 
 
 +3 ° 
 
 O 
 
 3 J" CO 
 
 o>S 
 
 
 
 
 
 GO Pi 
 
 f*i 
 
 Q£ 
 
 Pi Spi 
 
 
 
 E CO 
 
 •S 
 
 E ^ 
 
 
 
 S 6 •§ 
 
 
 
 So 
 
 s 
 
 r- re 
 
 J3 .3 
 
 
 • B 
 
 
 
 
 <-> -B 
 
 
 W '° 
 
 
 CU O 
 
 
 >> 
 
 
 1J0 
 
 13 
 
 O __; re 
 
 S 5 3 
 
 13 t3 
 re q 
 
 fe O 
 
 •£ j -g s 
 
 
 cu 
 
 bS re 
 
 B 
 
 ^£.E 
 
 
 co ^q 
 
 ^ W fe ."B , 
 
 
 a 
 
 3 
 
 
 •— > 
 
 (55 'EH 
 
 co re 
 
 re cy 
 
 o~ 
 
 ►J 
 O 
 
 . C 
 £ ° 
 
 O fl 
 
 bfl 3 
 
 Brighton. 
 Chipping Sodbn 
 Deptford to Bri 
 Glasgow to Kill: 
 
 = - - 
 
 ^2 
 2 S 
 
 ~ re 
 BJ3 
 fe cfl 
 
 o.S 
 
 •Jo 
 
 New Cross to 
 
 and back. 
 Glasgow, Stirlin 
 
 mond, Glasgo 
 Glasgow to L 
 
 Loch Lomond 
 Kidderminster t 
 Bristol to Lond 
 
 = 
 
 1 ai "> 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 CO (J <u 
 
 
 O 
 
 000 
 
 
 
 
 
 O CO CO \D vO 
 
 O 
 
 Q re3 
 
 ro 
 
 
 
 m ro co 
 
 P1MCO 
 
 CO ro 
 
 CN CN (N CN N 
 
 N 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 -^<5 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 00 b/J >» 
 
 
 3 3 pa 
 
ROAD RIDING. 
 
 137 
 
 
 CO 
 CU 
 
 ,3 
 
 en 
 4) 
 
 "> 
 
 <5 >> 
 
 CD 
 
 re 
 
 
 3 
 O 
 
 CO 
 
 Hi 
 <D 
 
 3 
 O 
 
 2 
 
 
 di 
 
 
 1 
 
 u 
 
 E 
 re 
 
 3 
 
 w 
 
 P 2J 
 O « 
 
 ID 
 CJ 
 
 53 
 
 "T3 
 
 3 
 cu 
 
 M 
 
 3 
 
 CJ 
 
 <L) 
 CD 
 
 Oh 
 
 CO 
 
 re 
 
 re 
 
 CJO 
 -73 
 
 cu 
 
 s 
 
 J 
 
 & 
 
 "re 
 
 HH <-> 
 
 Ph ^ 
 
 P 
 
 HI 
 
 PQ 
 
 CO 
 
 •73 
 
 cu 
 
 (4 
 
 re 
 
 _o 
 
 
 •— 1 
 
 re 
 h-1 
 
 £ 
 
 u 
 
 < 
 
 C4 
 
 6 
 
 < 
 
 
 
 
 £ 
 
 * 6 
 
 fe 
 
 i-"* 
 
 ^ 
 
 H 
 
 ffl 
 
 w 
 
 i-A 
 
 < 
 
 H 
 
 ^'£ 
 
 
 
 
 Hcq 
 
 rtW 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 "•§.§§ 
 
 O 
 
 1 1 
 
 HI 
 
 J? 
 
 CO 
 
 1 S 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 «E- , a 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 s«j£ 
 
 
 HM 
 
 «(* 
 
 
 
 HlN 
 
 MM 
 
 
 
 
 
 3 s 3 
 
 
 
 "* 1 
 
 <* 
 
 CO 
 
 00 
 
 ••*■ vO 
 
 vO 
 
 Ul 
 
 "i 
 
 m 
 
 »n 
 
 fe HS 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 t3 
 
 to 
 
 
 
 O 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 cu 
 
 J-c 
 
 3 
 
 re 
 
 
 cu 
 
 •1 * 
 
 £ -a 
 
 O 3 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 CL) 
 T3 
 
 h3 
 re 
 
 c 
 
 
 O 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 cu 
 
 
 
 1 '* 
 
 "*" h. 
 T3 CU 
 
 "> re 
 
 -» hi 
 
 •is *** 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 en 
 ^! 
 
 u 
 re 
 
 e 
 
 CU 
 
 (-4 
 
 1 
 | 
 
 e 1 
 
 TJ 
 
 s 
 
 "To 
 
 .st" 
 
 CJO 3 
 Hi 
 
 t3 re 
 
 3 £ 
 re «h 
 
 
 >> 
 
 H> 
 
 cu 
 > 
 
 13 
 
 O 
 O 
 
 s 
 
 "-S 
 
 <u 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 
 
 
 're 
 
 
 "re ",re 
 
 bfl 
 co^J 
 
 s 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 IS 
 
 CO 
 
 ^a 
 
 
 CO CO 
 
 CO 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 >, 
 
 TS 
 
 
 T3 T3 
 
 T3 3 
 
 •T3 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 0) 
 
 re 
 
 
 " re 
 
 
 re re 
 
 
 ? 
 
 re 
 
 
 s 
 
 3 
 
 s 
 
 
 
 > 
 
 P4 
 
 a 
 
 
 P4 P4 
 
 Ci< 
 
 « 
 
 
 
 
 
 O 
 
 jH^t 
 
 
 n 
 
 
 *2 1? 
 
 3 OJ 
 
 re -h» 
 
 "S 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 >-. re 
 
 /*" 
 
 i? 
 
 
 re 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ^^ 
 
 3,Q 
 
 -tH 
 
 3 
 
 
 m 0) 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 
 
 
 >, 
 
 CD 
 
 "00 cu 
 T3^J 
 
 •2-d 
 
 • 3 3 
 T3 re 
 
 re 
 
 
 2 
 
 bJO . 
 
 s e 3 
 •3 c 
 
 cu 
 
 j- 
 
 iA 
 
 B 
 
 cu 
 
 cu 
 
 3 
 
 HI 
 
 re 
 
 «. 
 
 - 
 
 3 
 
 cu 
 
 C 
 
 3 
 O 
 
 .0 re 
 
 S 
 •3 "§>§ 
 
 
 
 CU 
 
 
 
 CO 
 
 2 
 
 
 t 
 
 PQ 
 
 
 
 
 
 1—) 
 
 CO 3 
 """"ftf 
 
 55 J\3 
 
 -so" 
 
 o-s 3 
 i-i >- re 
 
 £pq ro 
 
 O 
 cj 
 
 >> 
 
 "a! 
 "2 
 
 
 
 O 
 
 S 
 re 
 
 -3 
 
 
 
 
 
 w O 
 
 "JSP 
 
 Oh 
 
 CO 
 
 aj 
 
 pq 
 
 CO 
 
 .3 
 
 3 
 O 
 CO 
 
 
 IS.s'S 
 
 3 
 
 c re 
 
 •3-° 
 
 bfl 
 .S 
 
 
 S5 
 
 
 
 
 1 0} co 
 co y D 
 
 
 
 iri \T) 
 
 ul 
 
 10 
 
 10 
 
 10 in 
 
 ■*• 
 
 ■* 
 
 ^*- 
 
 -t 
 
 >* 
 
 Q 2£ 
 
 
 CS N 
 
 n 
 
 N 
 
 <N 
 
 <S N 
 
 cs 
 
 N 
 
 M 
 
 CS 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 vd 
 
 
 
 
 
 cu 
 re 
 
 ON t~» 
 
 <^2 
 
 <3> 
 
 r" 
 
 
 6 to N 
 
 0h3 
 
 N 
 
 
 
 
 t^ . 
 
 CO hj 
 
 
 
 
 ^ ^ 
 
 co cj 
 
 
 
 
 
 P 
 
 00 bo 
 
 <1 
 
 CCc>> 
 
 M 3*3 
 
 
 
 
 00 5^ Q. 
 
 m re h* 
 
 HH CU 
 
 1=5 OJ 
 
 00 i- 
 
 a 
 
 < 
 
 
 
 
1 38 APPENDIX. 
 
 VII. 
 
 BICYCLE RIDING IN THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 It is a mistake to suppose that highways in 
 England are universally superior to those in the 
 United States. There are many roads in this 
 country equal to the very best English roads, 
 and there are roads in England quite as poor as 
 our worst roads. The following is from an article 
 on roads in an English publication : — 
 
 " The adjectives ' good ' and ' bad ' are quite useless 
 in such conjunctions as these, since what a Yorkshire 
 rider might call good, a Surrey man would be very 
 likely to characterize as infamous, not to say unride- 
 able," 
 
 Englishmen are well aware of the fact that Eng- 
 lish highways have not altogether that degree of 
 superiority which for some reason Americans will 
 claim for them. A lumpy English macadam is 
 abominable, and a slippery oolite is exasperating. 
 Nowhere in England or Wales has the writer 
 found roads superior to many of those in the vi- 
 cinity of Boston, Massachusetts. But there is 
 
 
BICYCLE RIDING IN THE UNITED STATES. 1 39 
 
 this manifest advantage in an extended tour in 
 England, that there good roads are found more 
 or less all over the kingdom, whereas in Massa- 
 chusetts, for instance, they are in and near a 
 few large cities and towns, and not through the 
 State at large, so that one can, upon the whole, 
 do better in England on a tour than he can in 
 New England ; yet for circular runs of from ten 
 to fifty miles, by selecting the route with care, 
 one can find roads about Boston equal to the 
 best in England. 
 
 In using the bicycle almost exclusively for hy- 
 gienic purposes, the writer has ridden over four 
 thousand miles through the following counties 
 in Massachusetts : Suffolk, Essex, Middlesex, 
 Norfolk, Worcester, Hampden, Bristol, and Ply- 
 mouth, and into the States of New Hampshire 
 and Rhode Island. In all the above the bicycle 
 can be ridden, although the roads in the eastern 
 part of Massachusetts are by far the best. 
 
 The use of the bicycle is now so well estab- 
 lished that the number of riders throughout the 
 United States increases at the rate of several 
 thousand a year. 
 
I40 APPENDIX. 
 
 VIII. 
 
 IS BICYCLE RIDING HEALTHY? 
 
 It is said that four years ago a professor at a 
 neighboring university was prepared to demon- 
 strate the impossibility of maintaining one's 
 equilibrium on a bicycle. He was shown a bi- 
 cycle in use on Boston Common, and abandoned 
 his theory. At first the bicycle was regarded as 
 a toy, and supposed to be of little use save on 
 a smooth surface and level ground. The feats 
 which have now been performed on bicycles over 
 highways, taking the hills as they came, have 
 been pronounced by a London daily as the most 
 extraordinary accomplishments in the way of lo- 
 comotion in the history of man ; no animal, save 
 a bird, having the power to successfully compete 
 with a man on a bicycle. A few years ago the 
 attempt was made to drive a horse from Boston 
 to Portland (one hundred and ten miles) in a 
 day ; the horse dropped dead at Saco. In 1878 
 an attempt was made at Prospect Park to drive 
 a horse one hundred miles in ten consecutive 
 
IS BICYCLE RIDING HEALTHY? I4I 
 
 hours ; the poor animal fell from exhaustion on 
 the seventy-fifth mile. On previous pages of 
 this Appendix are the names of fifty men who 
 are known to have ridden from one hundred and 
 twenty-four to two hundred and twenty miles 
 in a day on a bicycle. Even now some to whom 
 bicycles are familiar do not understand how the 
 equilibrium is maintained in riding, and how it 
 is that such extraordinary performances on them 
 are so common with so little effort on the rider's 
 part. 
 
 The bicycle is a peculiar thing ; it is at vari- 
 ance with our preconceived ideas ; it sets at 
 naught what we believed. The general opin- 
 ion outside of bicycle riders is that the exercise 
 merely develops the legs, especially the calves, 
 and that it is injurious to men. These are un- 
 fortunate errors, because they deter many an 
 invalid from obtaining the health and strength 
 within his easy reach by bicycle riding. 
 
 But you say, " My physician tells me that it is 
 injurious." Then your physician is as ignorant 
 of the subject as the university professor who de- 
 clared it to be impossible to ride a bicycle. No 
 professional opinion is of value unless given with 
 a thorough knowledge of the case. No thorough 
 knowledge of the effects of bicycle riding was 
 
I42 APPENDIX. 
 
 attainable by any physician until recently. Ex- 
 perience has now settled the question in favor of 
 the bicycle, and it may well be doubted whether 
 an intelligent physician, informed on the subject, 
 can be found who will say that a judicious use 
 of the bicycle is injurious. On the contrary, the 
 testimony of medical men is now overwhelmingly 
 in favor of the bicycle, and in England it is com- 
 mon for physicians themselves to use the machine 
 in their daily practice. 
 
 That the exercise strengthens the legs follows 
 as of course ; this of itself is sufficient to justify 
 an encouragement of the bicycle ; for whatever 
 makes these members sound, straight, and strong 
 is a blessing. But the effect of bicycle riding 
 ranges far above the commonly received notions. 
 It is for the head, the heart, the chest, the back, 
 the lungs, and for all the upper and nobler parts 
 of man, that this exercise is of incalculable ben- 
 efit. " How can this be ? " you say. " When 
 one rides he seems to move nothing but his 
 legs ; how, then, can other parts of his frame 
 be affected ? " The answer is that experience 
 shows that it is the upper part of the body, 
 rather than the lower, which is acted upon, be- 
 cause the hands, wrists, arms, shoulders, back, 
 loins, and waist are all at work in balancing, 
 
IS BICYCLE RIDING HEALTHY? 1 43 
 
 guiding, and controlling the machine, so that, 
 after a long or swift run, it is not the legs which 
 feel the work, but rather the arms, shoulders, 
 and back. It is doubtful whether a man with 
 the legs of a Hercules or a Milo could ride a 
 bicycle half way up Milton Hill (near Boston), 
 unless his lungs were strong enough to endure 
 the strain upon them. On the other hand, a 
 man or boy with only a moderate leg develop- 
 ment, but with good lungs in working order, 
 could ride a bicycle up and down Milton Hill 
 with comparative ease. Many an aspirant in 
 bicycle races has given up, not because his legs 
 were weak or because his calves were insuffi- 
 ciently developed, but because he was " blown ; " 
 and has thus found to his astonishment that, in 
 using a bicycle, it is " wind " that is needed 
 rather than legs ; that it is the upper part of 
 his body which gives out, rather than the lower 
 part. So complete and active is the circulation 
 of the blood throughout the system, when riding, 
 that it is common to ride comfortably for miles, 
 without gloves, when the thermometer is as low 
 as between io° and 20 Fahrenheit ; and yet 
 riders well know how often in winter weather 
 they are surprised with the question, " Is it not 
 cold up there ? " The writer has ridden twenty- 
 
144 APPENDIX. 
 
 four miles on a bicycle in a snow-storm, and kept 
 warmer and enjoyed the ride more than if in a 
 carriage or a sleigh. In walking, three fourths 
 of the effort is said to be required in raising 
 the weight of the body (one hundred and fifty 
 pounds, perhaps) with each step, the other fourth 
 being used in putting forward the legs. This 
 three fourths is all saved on the bicycle, because 
 the body is comfortably supported by the saddle. 
 Hence, after an ordinary bicycle run of twenty 
 or thirty miles, a good rider dismounts with a 
 feeling of buoyancy, lightness, and activity, while 
 an eight or ten mile walk might leave him with 
 that dull, heavy, wearisome feeling so common 
 after walking. In this single fact that, while 
 riding, the body is comfortably supported, we 
 have the key to the great advantage a bicycle 
 rider has over the pedestrian or the horse. 
 
 Bicycle riding demands and develops self- 
 possession ; one's head must be clear and cool 
 to determine instantaneously and correctly the 
 precise movement needed for safety, however 
 sudden the emergency. It develops the chest, 
 and strengthens the lungs and heart ; for, when 
 riding fast or up hill, the full, deep breaths en- 
 forced, if tempered to moderation, are powerful, 
 invigorating agencies. It is invaluable for a 
 
IS BICYCLE RIDING HEALTHY? 1 45 
 
 sluggish liver ; it benefits the kidneys ; and 
 for strengthening the digestive organs is unsur- 
 passed. Who knows of a good bicycle rider who 
 has a poor digestion ? and who knows of a man 
 with a poor digestion who is happy ? 
 
 To no class of men, perhaps, is bicycle riding 
 more beneficial than to those who lead sedentary 
 occupations in the manifold walks of life, — ap- 
 prentices, clerks, students, business men, profes- 
 sional men, physicians, teachers, clergymen, and 
 others. If such find their system weakened and 
 "run down" by over-work, anxiety, or other 
 causes, and are not incapable of riding a bicycle, 
 they will find that its use, instead of being inju- 
 rious, will give them strength, tone, and a manly 
 vigor from head to foot ; in short, — health. 
 This statement could be substantiated by thou- 
 sands of bicycle riders, who have found, to their 
 surprise and gratification, that this exercise in 
 the sun and air, — the two greatest of tonics, — 
 instead of merely developing the calves of their 
 legs, has given them health and strength through- 
 out the body. A like result may doubtless be 
 attained in other ways, as by horseback riding, 
 yachting, boating, or canoeing. But all cannot 
 afford these, or live where such exercises are 
 convenient, without an interference with their 
 
 10 
 
I46 APPENDIX. 
 
 regular work. The bicycle adds to the list 
 of known agencies in obtaining and keeping 
 health. 
 
 He is a more than ordinary philosopher who, 
 on every walk taken for health's sake, can forget 
 that his walk is a duty effort. But with a bicycle 
 the greater range of objects within easy reach 
 offers a wide and varying field for observation. 
 The writer has found his runs through the State 
 made far more interesting and beneficial by 
 studying the history, the topography, and the 
 agricultural and manufacturing industries of 
 the several municipalities visited. There is no 
 easier and better way of getting acquainted 
 with the growth and possibilities of the old 
 Commonwealth. The artist, the botanist, the 
 ornithologist, the oologist, and other specialists 
 will find that the bicycle gives hitherto un- 
 known advantages in the out-of-door pursuit of 
 their studies. 
 
 President Eliot of Harvard University, in his 
 Annual Report to the Board of Overseers for 
 1877-78, said : — 
 
 " A singular notion prevails, especially in the coun- 
 try, that it is the feeble, sickly children who should be 
 sent to school and college, since they are apparently 
 unfit for hard work. The fact that in the history of 
 
IS BICYCLE RIDING HEALTHY? 1 47 
 
 literature a few cases can be pointed out in which 
 genius was lodged in a weak or diseased body, is some- 
 times adduced in support of the strange proposition, 
 that physical vigor is not necessary for professional 
 men. But all experience contradicts these notions. 
 To attain success and length of service in any of the 
 learned professions, including that of teaching, a vigor- 
 ous body is wellnigh essential. A busy lawyer, editor, 
 minister, physician, or teacher has need of greater phys- 
 ical endurance than a farmer, trader, manufacturer, or 
 mechanic. All professional biography teaches that, to 
 win lasting distinction in sedentary, in-door occupa- 
 tions which task the brain and the nervous system, 
 extraordinary toughness of body must accompany ex- 
 traordinary mental powers." 
 
 In Endymion, Chapter LXXXV., Lord Bea- 
 consfield puts into the mouth of the Prime Min- 
 ister (probably Lord Palmerston) these words : 
 " Health is one of the elements to be considered 
 in calculating the career of a public man, and 
 I have always predicted an eminent career for 
 Ferrars, because, in addition to his remarkable 
 talents, he had apparently such a fine constitu- 
 tion." 
 
 Lord Coleridge, the present Lord Chief Jus- 
 tice of England, told a Boston lawyer, in 1875, 
 that when at the bar, with a practice worth 
 
I48 APPENDIX. 
 
 $70,000 a year, and when in Parliament, and 
 Attorney-General, often working till past mid- 
 night, he made it a point to ride every afternoon 
 on horseback ; but that in 1873, after he be- 
 came Lord Chief Justice of the Common Pleas, 
 his rides were not so frequent, because the strain 
 upon both mind and body was then less severe. 
 In other words, the amount of out-of-door exer- 
 cise taken, regardless of the weather, was in 
 proportion to the extent to which his physical 
 and mental energies were taxed, increasing with 
 the growth of his business, and diminishing as 
 his labors became lighter. This was the custom 
 with men of his class in England. Lord Cole- 
 ridge was surprised when told that, notwith- 
 standing a brighter sky, the very reverse was 
 too apt to be the practice with professional men 
 in the United States. 
 
 The Right Hon. Robert Lowe, ex-Chancellor 
 of the English Exchequer, now seventy years of 
 age, is a well-known bicycle and tricycle rider. He 
 is the president of the West Kent Bicycle Club, 
 and in 1877, after distributing the prizes at bicy- 
 cle races, urged the general use of the bicycle, 
 and observed : " I am satisfied that if persons 
 who are not young would addict themselves to 
 the use of the bicycle, they would find it a very 
 
IS BICYCLE RIDING HEALTHY? 1 49 
 
 good thing, and the best possible antidote against 
 the gout." 
 
 The Hon. Ion Keith-Falconer, second son of 
 the Earl of Kintore, and brother to Lord Inveru- 
 rie, is first among English amateur bicycle riders, 
 and at the Cambridge University examinations 
 carried off nearly the highest honors in the theo- 
 logical tripos, getting second, whilst in the He- 
 brew examination he was prominent, and was 
 awarded the Hebrew prize. Mr. E. Thornton, 
 of Trinity College, Cambridge, another amateur 
 bicycle rider of high repute, has carried off hon- 
 ors in the mathematical tripos. Mr. Thornton 
 is an American. 
 
 Four years ago, when the writer was out of 
 health, with the prospect of having to abandon 
 his profession for want of physical strength to 
 endure its labors, he was led by advices from 
 England to use a bicycle. It then took three 
 months to get a suitable machine, which was 
 secured through the only agent in America at 
 that time,- — the British Vice-Consul at Balti- 
 more. The writer at once commenced a regu- 
 lar use of the machine, just as patients take 
 doses of medicine. He locked his office door 
 betimes, and (no instructors were then at hand) 
 struggled to master the thing ; he was often 
 
I5O APPENDIX. 
 
 thrown, sprained and re-sprained his wrists, and 
 was supposed by many to have abandoned his 
 profession and to have lost due sense of pro- 
 priety. u To think that Mr. Chandler should 
 be seen riding about the town astride of a 
 wheel!" was one of the common remarks heard 
 in disapprobation of his conduct. But he found 
 that the exercise surpassed all others known to 
 him on land, for the benefits derived, and he 
 kept at it till his lungs (which were under the 
 care of the late Dr. Edward H. Clarke) became 
 strong enough to carry him on the bicycle over 
 many of the steepest hills about Boston, and to 
 compete successfully with fast horses ; his mus- 
 cles became " like steel," his digestion perfect, 
 and, for aught he knows, complete health was 
 secured from head to foot, notwithstanding that 
 the method taken shocked some conservative 
 people. Finally, what practical men think most 
 of, instead of being forced to abandon his pro- 
 fession, his practice was, by the means taken, 
 not only maintained, but doubled. Hence, when 
 asked that perpetually recurring question, " Is 
 it healthy ? " the writer insists that it is, if 
 not carried to excess, and maintains that the 
 bicycle is a boon often of inestimable value to 
 those who are tied down to sedentary occupa- 
 
IS BICYCLE RIDING HEALTHY? 151 
 
 tions, especially to such as find the use of a 
 horse inconvenient, both on the score of expense 
 and the attention the animal requires, and to such 
 as do not live near enough to water to make row- 
 ing or sailing convenient. 
 
152 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 IX. 
 
 WHERE BICYCLES MAY BE OBTAINED IN 
 THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 Four years ago, in the early part of 1877, the 
 only bicycle agent in America was Colonel T. W. 
 Lawford, the British Vice-Consul at Baltimore. 
 Now, in May, 1881, bicycles may be obtained of 
 the following persons, among others, in the 
 United States, from Maine to California, and 
 from Minnesota to Texas : — 
 
 Appleton, Wis. 
 Auburn, N. Y. 
 Ashtabula, Ohio 
 Adrian, Mich. . 
 
 Augusta, Ga. . 
 Attleboro', Mass. 
 Amherst, " 
 Ashland, Ohio 
 Andover, Mass. 
 Albion, N. Y 
 Arcade, " 
 Avon, " 
 Albany, " 
 Akron, Ohio 
 
 Benoit & Bleser. 
 A. E. Swartout. 
 M. G. Dick. 
 C. B. Ackley. 
 Robt. W. Robertson. 
 David D. Nevins. 
 George F. Fisk. 
 W. V. B. Topping. 
 John L. Smith. 
 Frank L. Bates. 
 W. I. Masten. 
 George W. Holmes. 
 W. G. Paddock & Co. 
 C. D. Miller. 
 
WHERE BICYCLES MAY BE OBTAINED. 1 53 
 
 Boston, Mass Cunningham & Co., 6 and 8 
 
 Berkeley Street. 
 
 a « LP. Lord & Co., 48 Union 
 
 Street. 
 
 « » Charles R. Percival, 96 
 
 Worcester Street. 
 
 « « Pope Manufacturing Co., 
 
 597 Washington Street. 
 (Manufactory at Hartford, 
 Conn.) 
 
 « « Stoddard, Lovering, & Co., 
 
 10 Milk Street. 
 
 Biddeford, Me R. A. Fairfield. 
 
 Brattleboro', Vt A. W. Childs. 
 
 Burlington, " . . . . George Styles. 
 Bridgeport, Conn. . . . Hincks & Johnson. 
 
 Buffalo, N. Y Charles Schladermundt. 
 
 Bradford, Pa H. A. Marlin. 
 
 Baltimore, Md S. T. Clark. 
 
 Brainerd, Minn Z. C. Thayer. 
 
 Boone, la Reed D. Smith. 
 
 Bellefontaine, Ohio . . . H. H. Good. 
 Binghamton, N. Y. . . Crocker & Ogden. 
 
 Beloit, Wis Goodall & Emerson. 
 
 Bay City, Mich Gedney & Avery. 
 
 Brockton, Mass Fred. H. Johnson. 
 
 Belfast, Me George T. Read. 
 
 Bethlehem, Pa W. D. Packard. 
 
 Cherokee, la Allison Brothers. 
 
 Chicago, 111 J. M. Fairfield (cor. State 
 
 and Van Buren Streets). 
 
*54 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 Cincinnati, Ohio 
 Cleveland, " 
 Council Bluffs, la 
 Columbus, Ohio 
 Cedar Rapids, la. 
 Clyde, N. Y. . 
 Chillicothe, Ohio 
 Camden, S. C. 
 Charleston, " . 
 Carroll, la. . . 
 Cambridge, Md. 
 Cleburne, Tex. 
 
 B. Kittredge & Co. 
 
 T. B. Stevens & Brother. 
 
 C. H. Judson. 
 Waggoner & Krag. 
 E. Bliss. 
 
 A. J. Denison. 
 A. Dump. 
 J. A. Young. 
 L. M. Beebe. 
 Ed. M. Wayne. 
 Kemp & Co. 
 W. P. Richardson. 
 
 Detroit, Mich. 
 Danville, Ky. . 
 Dayton, Ohio . 
 Des Moines, la. 
 Dubuque, " 
 
 W. W. Seymour. 
 J. N. Richardson. 
 J. W. Stoddard & Co. 
 Gilcrest & Murphey. 
 H. E. Tredway. 
 
 Elmira, N.Y Frank Nearing. 
 
 Easton, Pa J. Hay & Sons. 
 
 Erie, " W. B. Vance & Co. 
 
 East Saginaw, Mich. . . H. L. Shaw. 
 
 Farmdale, Ky C. W. Fowler. 
 
 Fulton, N. Y. . . . . . S. B. Mead. 
 
 Fostoria, Ohio . . . . N. Portz & Co. 
 
 Frankfort, Ky W. C. Macklin. 
 
 Fond Du Lac, Wis. . . . C. S. Corn well. 
 
 Framingham, Mass. . . . W. D. Wilmot. 
 
 Fort Wayne, Ind. . . . C. W. Edgerton. 
 
WHERE BICYCLES MAY BE OBTAINED. 1 55 
 
 Grand Rapids, Mich. 
 Green Bay, Wis. . 
 Galveston, Tex. . 
 Greenwich, N. Y. 
 Galva, Kan. 
 Greenville, S. C. . 
 Goldsboro', N. C. 
 
 Foster, Stevens, & Co. 
 F. W. Basche. 
 J. E. Mason. 
 George E. Dorr. 
 George F. Haskins. 
 F. W. Davis. 
 J. Holt. 
 
 Helena, Mont W. E. Norris. 
 
 Hartford, Conn Weed Sewing Machine Co. 
 
 " " .... Billings & Spencer Co. 
 
 Hornellsville, N. Y. . . . G. A. Griggs. 
 
 Hannibal, Mo C. P. Heywood. 
 
 Halifax, N. S J. D. Shatford. 
 
 Houston, Tex J. O. Simpson. 
 
 Hingham, Mass Arthur L. Whiton. 
 
 Haverhill, " . . . . S. Frank Woodman. 
 
 Hillsboro', Ohio . . . . N. Rockhold & Son. 
 
 Hill, N. H Charles F. Adams. 
 
 Hudson, Mich F. H. Goadby. 
 
 Indianapolis, Ind. . . . Charles Mayer & Co. 
 
 Iowa City, la Pryce & Schell. 
 
 Independence, la. ... Tabor & Tabor. 
 
 Jamestown, N. Y. ... Frank Merz & Co. 
 
 Jeffersonville, Ind. . . . M. G. Main. 
 
 Jackson, Miss. . . . . B. W. Griffith. 
 
 Kenton, Ohio Shanafelt & Kuert. 
 
 Kansas City, Mo. . . . H. B. Martin. 
 
i5<3 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 Louisville, Ky. 
 Lockport, N. Y. , 
 Lima, Ohio . . , 
 Lancaster, Pa. . 
 Los Angeles, Cal. 
 Logansport, Ind. . 
 La Fayette, " 
 Lawrence, Mass. . 
 
 Mankato, Minn. . 
 Minneapolis, Minn. 
 Milville, N. J. . . 
 Medina, N. Y. . . 
 Meriden, Conn. . 
 Milwaukee, Wis. . 
 Murfreesboro', Tenn 
 Muncie, Ind. . . 
 Memphis, Tenn. . 
 Manchester, N. H. 
 Madison, Ind. . . 
 Marion, Ohio . . 
 Marshalltown, la. . 
 Macon, Ga. . . 
 Marietta, Ohio . . 
 Mansfield, " . . 
 Montgomery, Ala. 
 Martin's Ferry, Ohio 
 Morrow, Ohio . . 
 Marlboro', Mass. . 
 Milford, " 
 
 New Haven, Conn. 
 New Orleans, La. 
 
 Horace Beddo. 
 H. C. Hoag & Son. 
 Gale Sherman. 
 Martin Rudy. 
 W. C. Funey. 
 
 F. M. Tipton. 
 Perrin Brothers. 
 Dyer & Co. 
 
 Samborn & Wabz. 
 Shafter & Clement. 
 J. B. Rose. 
 C. F. Hurd. 
 Dr. T. S. Rust. 
 L. M. Richardson. 
 J. H. Nelson & Co. 
 Stewart & Foster. 
 S. T. Carnes & Co. 
 J. B. Varick. 
 Wm. Sibley Truax. 
 H. G. Welty. 
 McQuiston & Burnell. 
 
 G. W. Stratton. 
 G. W. Gale. 
 
 F. E. Morris. 
 C. B. Wilkins. 
 L. F. Oxley. 
 J. C. Hart. 
 Lewis T. Frye. 
 H. E. Nelson. 
 
 American Bicycle Co. 
 Fred N. Thayer. 
 
WHERE BICYCLES MAY BE OBTAINED. 1 57 
 
 New York, N. Y. 
 
 New Albany, Ind 
 Norfolk, Va. . 
 Newburgh, Ohio 
 Norwich, Conn. 
 Nashville, Tenn. 
 Northboro', Mass 
 Norwalk, Conn. 
 Newburgh, N. Y. 
 New London, Conn 
 New Britain, " 
 Nashville, 111. . . 
 Norwalk, Ohio . . 
 Niles, Mich. . . 
 New Brunswick, N. J, 
 New Cumberland, Pa. 
 Nunda, N. Y. . 
 New Castle, Ind 
 
 Ogden, Utah 
 Omaha, Neb. 
 Ottawa, Ont. 
 Opelika, Ala. 
 Orange, Mass. 
 Oshkosh, Wis. 
 Oxford, Miss. 
 
 Philadelphia, Pa. 
 Pittsburgh, " 
 
 C. C. Richards. 
 N. I. D. Solomon. 
 A. E. Wilson. 
 Renfro Bros. 
 Underwood & Tenney. 
 Benjamin B. Hooper. 
 E. Hustace. 
 
 189 
 
 Win. M. Wright, 160 Fulton 
 
 Street. 
 Schuyler & Duane, 
 
 Broadway. 
 Frank C. Nunemacher 
 J. B. Piatt, Jr. 
 Healy Bros. 
 C. R. Butts. 
 V. L. Cunnyngham. 
 A. E. Wood. 
 S. K. Stanley. 
 J. T. Joslin. 
 C. F. Chaney. 
 John A. Williams. 
 Lorenzo C. Liversay. 
 N. S. C. Perkins. 
 John A. Montague. 
 Elliot Mason. 
 George F. Shoop. 
 W. Y. Robinson. 
 L. A. Jennings. 
 
 H. B. Hart, 813 Arch Street. 
 E. J. Waring. 
 
158 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 Plainfield, N. J. . 
 Portsmouth, Ohio 
 Poughkeepsie, N. Y 
 Providence, R. I. 
 
 Peoria, 111. . . 
 Portsmouth, N. H 
 Pittsfield, Mass. 
 Portland, Me. . 
 Portland, N. Y. 
 Parkersburg, W. 
 Princeton, N. J. 
 Port Huron, Mich 
 Painesville, Ohio 
 Paterson, N. J. 
 Palmer, Mass. 
 Pueblo, Col. 
 
 Va 
 
 Rochester, N. Y. 
 Russellville, Tenn 
 Richmond, Me. 
 Richmond, Ind. 
 Red Wing, Minn. 
 Rockport, Tex. 
 Randolph, N. Y. 
 Raleigh, N. C. 
 Rutland, Vt. . 
 
 Salt Lake City, Utah 
 San Antonio, Tex. . 
 San Francisco, Cal. . 
 
 Curtiss & Griffen. 
 
 Lodwick & Dunlap. 
 
 A. N. Shaffer. 
 
 C. F. Handy, 135 Broad 
 
 Street. 
 George W. Rouse. 
 C. A. Hazlett. 
 L. L. Atwood. 
 Charles H. Lamson. 
 W. L. Smith. 
 G. W. Gale. 
 Wm. Chester. 
 A. Dixon. 
 C. J. Pratt. 
 Wm. T. Cole. 
 E. S. Gibbons. 
 E. P. Jordan. 
 
 F. A. Griswold. 
 H. G. Rogan. 
 J. H. Odiorne. 
 
 C. P. Buchanan, Jr. 
 Arland H. Allen. 
 
 G. W r . Fulton, Jr. 
 C. J. Brown & Co. 
 J. C. Brewster. 
 M. J. Francisco. 
 
 Day & Co. 
 Ed Stevens & Sons. 
 Osborn & Alexander. 
 F. T. Merrill. 
 
WHERE BICYCLES MAY BE OBTAINED. 1 59 
 
 St. Louis, Mo. . . 
 Springfield, Ohio. 
 Selma, Ala. . . 
 St. Paul, Minn. . 
 Spartanburg, S. C. 
 Sedalia, Mo. . . 
 Sidney, Ohio . 
 Somerville, N. J. . 
 Springfield, 111. 
 Susquehanna, Pa. 
 Salem, Mass. . . 
 Stevens's Point, Wis 
 Saint Peter, Minn. 
 Schenectady, N. Y. 
 Syracuse, N. Y. . 
 Somerville, Tenn. 
 San Saba, Tex. 
 South New Market 
 Southington, Conn 
 St. Johnsbury, Vt. 
 
 Toledo, Ohio . . 
 Terre Haute, Ind. 
 Tucson, Arizona . 
 Titusville, Pa. . . 
 Trenton, N. J. 
 
 University, Va. 
 Utica, N. Y. . 
 
 Vincennes, Ind. 
 Versailles, Ky. 
 
 N 
 
 H 
 
 C. & W. McClean. 
 
 D. E. Barnum. 
 Woolsey & Sons. 
 C. R. Smith. 
 
 T. J. Trimmier. 
 
 0. Kernodle. 
 
 W. M. Johnston & Bro. 
 
 1. Van Eps. 
 Smith Bros. 
 
 T. A. Hayward. 
 A. J. Philbrick. 
 Earl F. Phillips. 
 Jas. Danby. 
 Avery, Snell, & Co. 
 Chas. C. Smith. 
 J. H. Dorth. 
 W. W. Hackworth. 
 Jas. A. Spead. 
 Brooks & Barnes. 
 C. H. Knapp. 
 
 M. F. Richards. 
 Chas. Baur. 
 C. W. Risley. 
 J. H. Isham. 
 J. Y. Clark. 
 
 J. L. Keller. 
 Jas. H. Gilmore. 
 
 H. J. Foulks. 
 B. A. Norris. 
 
i6o 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 Washington, D. C. 
 Wilmington, Del. 
 Wilkesbarre, Pa. . 
 Worcester, Mass. 
 Wheeling, W. Va. 
 Williamsport, Pa. 
 Westfield, N. Y. . 
 Willimantic, Conn. 
 Winnsboro', S. C. 
 Warren, Ohio . . 
 Waltham, Mass. . 
 Wilmington, N. C. 
 Washington, Ohio 
 Woburn, Mass. . 
 
 H. I. Carpenter. 
 Wm. A. Bacon. 
 J. G. Carpenter. 
 Hill & Tolman. 
 Hoge & Co. 
 J. Howard. 
 Samuel Crandall. 
 Horace A. Adams. 
 A. W. Brown. 
 W. D. Packard. 
 Wm. Shakspeare. 
 W. J. Gordon. 
 Frank Clugston. 
 F. B. Richardson. 
 
 Xenia, Ohio Trader & Co. 
 
MAPS. I 6 I 
 
 X. 
 
 MAPS. 
 
 At the beginning of this book will be found 
 an outline map of England, drawn to accompany 
 the description of the tour. 
 
 At the end of the book will be found two bicy- 
 cle riding maps of Southern England, giving in 
 detail all that part between the Thames Valley 
 and the English Channel, extending as far west 
 as the river Severn, and including the Isle of 
 Wight and the principal watering-places on the 
 coast. These maps are reduced from the Ord- 
 nance Survey, and are not only of value for 
 the tourist, but are of use in the library for 
 references. 
 
 A third map is given of the eastern part of 
 Massachusetts, reduced from the map specially 
 prepared by the State authorities for the Cen- 
 tennial Exhibition. 
 
 Of course these maps will be found of use 
 as well in horseback riding, or in driving and 
 walking. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Accidents, 15, 27, 28, 81, 82, 83, 107. 
 Agricultural Hall, London, great race 
 
 at, 77, 81, 82. 
 Ale, 23, 69, 70, 114. 
 Alps, 119, 124. 
 
 Brenner Pass, how far rideable, 
 124. 
 Amesbury, 42, 43. 
 Appleyard, feat by, 23, 44. 
 "Arizona," the, accident to, 98. 
 Arundel, 25-27, 50. 
 
 Castle, 26, 27, 50. 
 Austria, 121-123, 127. 
 Avon, river, 43. 
 Aylesford, 13. 
 
 Baedeker's guide-books, 128. 
 
 Bakewell, 75, 84. 
 
 Ballater, 24. 
 
 Balmoral, 24. 
 
 "Baltic," the, accident to, 95-102. 
 
 Banbury, 55. 
 
 Cross, 55, 56. 
 Bangor, 105. 
 Barnham Junction, 28. 
 Baslow, 84. 
 Bath Road, 23, 44. 
 Baths, public, 18, 21, 25, 46, 73. 
 Bayliss, Thomas, & Co., 63. 
 Beaconsfield, Lord, 147. 
 Beeley Hill, 84. 
 Belgium, 120, 121. 
 Bells. See Bicycle. 
 Berkshire, 45, 49, 53, 103. 
 
 Bicycle, bells on, 62, 63, 115. 
 brakes on, in, 124. 
 capital invested, 130. 
 charge on railways, 11, 12, 128. 
 choice of machine, no. 
 cleaning, 59, 117. 
 cranks, short, 14, 15. 
 duties on, 64. 
 effect of riding on health, 50, 104, 
 
 109, 140-15 1. 
 fastest times on, 131, 132. 
 headquarters for, 9, 28, 62-64, 152- 
 
 3 60 
 hints on continental touring, 118- 
 
 129. 
 increase in use of, 130. 
 its value as an exercise, 109, 140- 
 
 151- 
 
 long road rides, 29, 33, 44, 45, 113, 
 
 I33-I37- 
 number of clubs, 130. 
 number of riders, 130. 
 on the road, 114-116. 
 riding in the United States, 138, 
 
 riding on Sunday, 27, 30. 
 
 six days' race, 8r, 82. 
 
 things to be remembered, 116, 117. 
 
 touring, 112-114. 
 
 varieties of, 130. 
 
 where to buy in England, 9, 28, 
 
 62-64. 
 where to buy in the United States, 
 152-160. 
 Bicycle Touring Club, 58. 
 
164 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Birmingham, 66, 103. 
 
 Bitter beer, 23, 69, 70. 
 
 Blackgang, 35. 
 
 Black Forest, 118, 119. 
 
 Blenheim Park, 54. 
 
 Blood, circulation of, in riding, 109, 
 
 143- 
 Bonchurch, 36. 
 Boulogne, 120. 
 Brakes. See Bicycle. 
 Brenner Pass, 124. 
 " Brest," the, wreck of, 95. 
 Brighton, 25. 
 
 Britten, W. S., feat by, 45, 134. 
 Brocken, 121. 
 Bruck-am-Mur, 122. 
 Buda-Pesth, 121. 
 Burton-on-Trent, 17, 67, 69, 72. 
 
 Cabs, carrying bicycles on, 49. 
 Cann, accident to, 81, 82. 
 Canterbury, 17. 
 
 Cathedral, 17, 18, 41, 50. 
 Carisbrooke Castle, 35, 37, 50. 
 Carinthia, 122. 
 Carlisle, 105. 
 Carnarvon Castle, 101. 
 Cary, Captain, 34, 80. 
 Castle, Arundel, 26, 27, 50. 
 
 Carisbrooke, 35, 37, 50. 
 
 Carnarvon, 10 1. 
 
 Conway, 101. 
 
 Dover, 21, 50. 
 
 Kenilworth, 30, 60, 61. 
 
 Warwick, 60, 61. 
 
 Windsor, 32. 
 Cathedral, Canterbury, 17, r8, 41, 50, 
 94. 
 
 Durham, 41. 
 
 Salisbury, 41, 42, 50, 94. 
 
 York, 94. 
 Chamounix, 118, 119. 
 Charing, 14, 16. 
 Charing Cross, 11. 
 Charlcote, 58. 
 
 Charles I., 58. 
 
 Chatham, 13. 
 
 Chatsworth, 71, 73-75, 83, 84. 
 
 Chest, effect on the, 109, 144. 
 
 Chester, 94, 103. 
 
 Chesterfield, 84, 85. 
 
 Chichester, 27, 28, 56. 
 
 Circus at Arundel, 26. 
 
 Clergymen, 30. 
 
 Clothes. See Dress. 
 
 Clubs, 130. 
 
 Coleridge, Lord, 147, 148. 
 
 Coleshill, 66. 
 
 "Commercial Dinner," 65. 
 
 Commercial Houses. See Inns. 
 
 Couway Castle, 101. 
 
 Cosh am, 31. 
 
 Coventry, 28, 60, 61-66, 103. 
 
 Machinist Co., 63. 
 Cowes, 35. 
 
 Cranks. See Bicycle. 
 Cremona, 123. 
 
 Danger Boards, 21, 22. 
 
 Danube, Valley of, 121. 
 
 Deal, 19. 
 
 De Lagrange, Count F., 87. 
 
 Derby, 71, 72. 
 
 " Derby" races, 71, 86. 
 
 Derbyshire, 48, 71, 83. 
 
 Devonshire, Duke of, 84, 85. 
 
 Dialects, 104. 
 
 Dieppe, 120. 
 
 Digestion, effect on the, 145. 
 
 Dijon, 120. 
 
 Dogs, 55-58. 
 
 Doncaster, 60, 72, 85, 86. 
 
 Doncaster races, 72, 85-93. 
 
 Dorchester, 53. 
 
 Dorset, 30. 
 
 Dover, 19, 21. 
 
 Dresden, 121. 
 
 Dresden China, 87. 
 
 Dress, 10, 11, 107, 112, 113, 124-127. 
 
 Drink, favorite, 22, 23, 114. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 165 
 
 Drinking, 19, 47, 48. 
 Druidical ruins, 13, 42, 50. 
 Dublin, 88. 
 
 Durham Cathedral, 41. 
 Duties on bicycles, 64. 
 
 Edge Hill, 58. 
 
 Edinburgh, 88, 94. 
 
 Edinburgh, Duke and Duchess of, 23, 
 
 24. 
 Education, 62. 
 Eisleben, 121. 
 Eliot, President, 146. 
 Endymion, 147. 
 Epsom, 71, 86. 
 Essex, Earl of, 58. 
 Expenses, 106, 118. 
 Eyes, 127. 
 
 Fastest Times, 23, 44, 131, 132. 
 
 Folkstone, 21. 
 
 Food, 65, 66, 106. 
 
 Foxhounds, 56, 57. 
 
 France, 120, 127. 
 
 Froxfield, 44. 
 
 Geneva, 118. 
 Gosport, 24. 
 Graz, 122. 
 
 Haddon Hall, 71, 83, 84. 
 
 Hallamshire Works, 85. 
 
 Hamilton, Lord, 62. 
 
 Hampshire, 31, 49. 
 
 Hansoms, carrying bicycles in, 49. 
 
 Hardwick Hall, 71, 84. 
 
 Harrietsham, 14. 
 
 Harz Mountains, 121. 
 
 Hastings, 23. 
 
 Havant, 31. 
 
 Health, effect on, 50, 104, 109, 140- 
 
 Heart, effect on, 142, 144. 
 Hillman & Herbert, 63. 
 
 Hills, 21, 58, 84. 
 
 Holyhead, 99, 100. 
 
 Horses, 46, 47, 115. See Races. 
 
 Hotels. See Inns. 
 
 Hounds. See Dogs. 
 
 Hungerford, 44, 45- 
 
 Hunting establishments, 57. 
 
 India Pale, 69. 
 
 Inns, 14, 16, 17, 50, 67, 76, 85. 
 life at, 37-401 43) 44- 
 odd names, 68, 69. 
 
 Innsbruck, 123. 
 
 Interlachen, 118. 
 
 Irish mail train, 46. 
 
 Isle of Thanet, 18. 
 
 Isle of Wight, 33~37> 49- 
 
 Italy, 123, 127. 
 
 Kaiserstrasse, 122. 
 
 Keen, John, champion, 7, 81, 82. 
 
 Keith-Falconer, 132, 149. 
 
 Kenilworth Castle, 30, 60, 61. 
 
 Kent, county of, 11, 13, 18, 20, 49. 
 
 Kidneys, effect on, 145. 
 
 Kineton, 58. 
 
 Kit's Cotty House, 13. 
 
 Lausanne, 118, 120. 
 
 Leamington, 60, 61. 
 
 Legs, effect on, 141-145. 
 
 Leipsic, 121. 
 
 Lenham, 14. 
 
 Library at Coventry, 6t, 62. 
 
 Ligny, 120. 
 
 Liver, effect on, no, 144, 145. 
 
 Liverpool, 64, 88. 
 
 Llanberns, 102. 
 
 Llyn Llydaw, 102. 
 
 Loire, Valley of, 120. 
 
 London, 7, 23, 28, 48, 49, 52, 77, 81, 
 
 83, 88, 104. 
 " London W.," 35. 
 Lorillard, Pierre, 87. 
 
1 66 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Lowe, ex- Chancellor, 148. 
 Lucerne, 118. 
 Luggage, 11, 114, 127. 
 Lungs, effect on, 142-144, 150. 
 
 Magny, 120. 
 
 Maidstone, 14. 
 
 Maps, 8, 9, 11, 107, 127, 128, 161. 
 
 Margate, 11, 18. 
 
 Marlborough, Duke of, 54. 
 
 Martigny, 118. 
 
 Mary, Queen of Scots, 85. 
 
 Matlock Bath, 72, 73, 76, 83. 
 
 Mayence, 121. 
 
 Metz, 120. 
 
 Milan, 123. 
 
 Modling, 122. 
 
 Mond See, 122. 
 
 "Montana," the, accident to, 100, n. 
 
 Mont Blanc, 119. 
 
 Nancy, 120. 
 
 Napoleon, Louis, 34, 35, 81. 
 
 Natatoria. See Baths. 
 
 Nelson, Admiral, 34. 
 
 Neuchatel, 118. 
 
 Newbury, 45. 
 
 Newport, 35, 36. 
 
 New Shoreham, 25. 
 
 Norfolk, 106. 
 
 Norfolk, Duke of, 26, 27. 
 
 Nuneham Courtney, 53. 
 
 Nuremburg, 121. 
 
 Ordnance Survey, 9. 
 Oxford, S3, 54. 
 Oxfordshire, 20, 53, 55. 
 
 Palmerston, Lord, 147. 
 
 Parole, 87. 
 
 Passau, 121. 
 
 " Paterson's Roads," 53. 
 
 Peacock Inn, 83. 
 
 Peake's bicycle emporium, 9, 28, 104. 
 
 Pegwell Bay, 19. 
 
 Pewsey, 43. 
 
 Poissy, 120. 
 
 Pontarlier, 120. 
 
 Portsmouth, 27-29, 31, 33-35, 37. 
 
 Prague, 121. 
 
 Prince of Wales's son, 9, 10. 
 
 Queen ; Her Majesty orders a tricy- 
 cle, 63. 
 cost of car service for, 24, 25. 
 
 Races, bicycle, 23, 44, 81, 82. 
 
 horse, 71, 72, 85-93. 
 Railroads, 11, 12, 77-81, 118, 128. 
 Rain, 14, 16, 21, 25, 37, 46, 83, 84. 
 Ramsgate, 18, 19. 
 Ratisbon, 121. 
 Rayon d'Or, 87. 
 Reading, 45, 46, 48, 49, 52. 
 Roads, 20, 43, 94, 138. 
 
 Austria, 121, 122. 
 
 Belgium, 120, 121. 
 
 England, bad, 20, 55, 84, 86, 138. 
 good, 21, 43, 44, 67, 138. 
 hilly, 13, 17, 21, 58, 84. 
 slippery, 15, 83. 
 
 France, 120. 
 
 Germany, 121. 
 
 Italy, 123. 
 
 Massachusetts, 138, 139. 
 
 Switzerland, 118, 119, 123, 124. 
 
 United States, 138, 139. 
 Rochester, 13. 
 Roman Villa, 37, 50. 
 Rouen, 120. 
 Rowsley, 75. 
 Ryde, 35. 
 
 Salisbury, 41, 42. 
 Sallanches, 118. 
 Salzburg, 122. 
 Sandown, 36. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 167 
 
 Sandwich, 19. 
 Schaffhausen, 118. 
 Scotland, 94. 
 Selby, 86, 93. 
 
 Self-possession developed, 109, 144. 
 Shakspeare Inn, 58. 
 Shanklin, 35, 36. 
 Sheffield, 85. 
 Shillingford Bridge, 53. 
 Shrewsbury, 105. 
 Singer & Co., 63. 
 Sketching, 13, 14, 37. 
 Slindon Park, 27. 
 . Snaith, 86. 
 Snowdon, 102, 103. 
 Snow-storm, riding in, 143, 144. 
 Soda and milk, 22, 23. 
 Somersetshire, 103. 
 South Stack Light, 95. 
 Staffordshire, 17, 67, 72. 
 St. Leger races, 72, 87, 90-92. 
 Stone Bridge, 66. 
 Stonehenge, 42, 50. 
 Strasbourg, 120. 
 Stratford-upon-Avon, 58-61. 
 Stroud, n, 13. 
 Styria, 122. 
 Suffolk, 106. 
 Sumner, Charles, 41. 
 Sunday, riding on, 27, 30. 
 Sussex, 23, 49. 
 Swimming. See Baths. 
 Switzerland, 118, 119, 123, 124. 
 
 Tamworth, 66, 67. 
 Telford, the engineer, 105. 
 Terront, 81, 82. 
 Thames, the, 43, 46, 52, 53- 
 Theale, 46. 
 
 Thorne, 85. 
 
 Thornton, E., 149. 
 
 Thun, 118. 
 
 Tonics, the two greatest, 145. 
 
 Tricycles, 30, 63. 
 
 the Queen orders one, 63 
 Tyrol, 123. 
 
 Under-Cliff, 36. 
 
 Ventnor, 35, 36. 
 Vespasian's Camp, 42. 
 "Victory," the, 34. 
 Vienna, 122. 
 
 Wales, 94, 95. 
 
 Wales, Prince of; bicycle for his sori. 
 
 9, 10. 
 Waller, champion rider, 81, 82, 131. 
 Wallingford, 53. 
 Warwick, 60, 61. 
 Castle, 60, 61. 
 Warwickshire, 58, 60. 
 Wiltshire. 44, 49. 
 Wimborne Minster, 30. 
 Wind, 22, 23, 115. 
 Windsor Castle, 32. 
 Woodstock, 54, 55. 
 
 York, 93, 94. 
 
 Cathedral, 94. 
 Yorkshire, 20, 60, 85, 
 Yverdon, 118. 
 
 Zurich, 118. 
 Zweissimmen, 118. 
 
 103. 
 
 University Press : John Wilson and Son, Cambridge. 
 
Ji 
 
 ^^mmmmam 
 
11 ' 
 
 , ym 
 
 t4 
 
 m 
 
. 
 
 ! I 
 


?•* A *V **? *V r^ v 
 
 A c o « e „ *4> A , ^ . 
 
 ^ ^ 
 ^ 
 
 <\ 
 
 v %a. » • s <G O 
 
 .0* .."_•. *o 
 
 
 ^oV* 
 
 
 
 ^^ 
 
 
 1 
 4°* 
 
 W 
 
 
 ^ , . o - . "<£ 
 
 rO. 
 
 ^^ 
 
o . y * 
 
 PS & 
 
 
 
 ^ DEC 73 
 
 £=!1^ N. MANCHEST 
 
 S^ N. MANCHESTER, 
 ss^ INDIANA 46962