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 eStark 
 
 Orchard Planting 
 
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 William H.Stark 
 
Copyright. 1911 
 by William H. Stark 
 
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 Preface 
 
 Most failures in fruit growing are directly trace- 
 able to mistakes made when the trees were planted. 
 
 This little booklet has been prepared to meet a 
 demand for trustworthy information, which, when fol- 
 lowed, will largely eliminate such mistakes. 
 
 The sum total of horticultural knowledge is the 
 result of the work and experience of the present as 
 well as of all past generations. The contents of this 
 booklet is not the result of my own experience alone. 
 It is a collection of the knowledge and experience of 
 many men. Each of these men have spent a large 
 part of their lives working with trees. Many Have 
 had scientific training. All are rich in that 'greatest 
 of all knowledge — practical experience; * ^ 
 
 One man by working hard maj^Sdd a small item 
 of knowledge to the vast amount we already have. 
 However, the comiijerci'al orchardist wishes first of 
 all, to succeed finaiicially. He does not care to try 
 experiments in a large way. Hence, in offering this 
 book I do so feeling it is a safe guide — one that 
 may be followed without misgivings as to final results, 
 for it is based on the knowledge of others, verified by 
 personal experience. 
 
 In so far as it is practicable to set down fixed 
 rules covering the planting of trees and their care for 
 the first few years, such rules have been given in the 
 following pages. However, the reader need know 
 but little of the science of tree growing to realize that 
 conditions of soil, climate and other elements vary. 
 Seasons also vary from year to year. Such variations 
 require thought and consideration in the practical 
 application of these rules. 
 
 William H. Stark 
 
 Louisiana, Missouri 
 
THK .STARK ORCHx\RD PLANTING BOOK 
 
 
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THI-: sT.\r;K (iRniARn ri.AXTi.vi", hook s 
 
 Tlie Stark System of packing is 
 Stark Method famous for its thoroughness. Pack- 
 
 of Packing iug cases are especially lined to 
 
 prevent the contents from dry- 
 ing out; damp fibre and moss are used about the 
 roots and between the layers of trees. This packing, 
 expensive as it is, is done wholly without charge to 
 the customer. This department of our business is 
 without equal among nurserymen. (Figure 1, page 2.) 
 
 Mature trees which are handled carefully without 
 exposure and packed in this manner can not only be 
 shipped to any fruit-growing region in America, but 
 to foreign countries as well. Many shipments are 
 annually sent with entire success to Australia, New 
 Zealand, Siberia, India and Alaska. The majority of 
 these are en route many weeks. 
 
 Unpack the trees as soon as delivered. 
 Receipt unless it is during freezing weather, in 
 
 of Trees which case place the box or package in 
 
 a cool, dry, frost-proof cellar or build- 
 ing to await the return of milder weather. 
 
 It not ready for planting when the stock is re- 
 ceived, unpack and heel it in. Stock is often ordered 
 in the fall, even though the planter does not con- 
 template setting out the trees at that time, and by 
 heeling them in he carries them over and has them 
 ready for late winter or early spring planting. 
 
 To heel in trees, dig a trench on a well- 
 Heeling drained ridge or other dry ground, IM 
 in Trees to 2 feet deep, and wide enough to take 
 the roots without crowding. If you dig 
 the trench too deep on low land the roots will be- 
 come water-soaked and be injured. Use the exca- 
 vated soil to make a sloping bank on the south side 
 of the trench. Cut the bundles of trees open, shak- 
 ing out all packing. Place a layer of trees in a slop- 
 ing position with the roots in the trench (Figure 2, 
 page 4); then work the soil well in among the roots, 
 covering this layer to the very tips with well broken 
 soil. 
 
 Be very careful to have plenty of soil shaken in 
 among the roots. Pack this layer firmly, then add a 
 second layer of trees with soil, and so on until all 
 trees are disposed of. Then cover the entire mound 
 with soil, smoothing the sides so as to turn off all 
 water. Also dig small trenches around the base of 
 the mound in order to carry oft rain water. 
 
 Never expose roots to wind or sun an instant 
 longer than necessary. When unpacking and check- 
 ing the order or preparing tor planting, keep the 
 trees covered with wet moss or an old, well-damp- 
 ened sack. 
 
 It sometimes happens that there has been delay 
 in transportation of weeks and even months. In such, 
 cases, the trees should be uniiacked and completely 
 buried in damp, moist earth for several days before 
 they are planted. With this treatment they will re- 
 gain their original plumpness. 
 
 Any unusual dcHy should be reported immedi- 
 ately on receipt of stock. 
 
THE STARK ORCHARD PLANTING BOOK 
 
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THE STAUK oltCllAKli I'l, ANTING BOOK 5 
 
 UNITED STATES DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE 
 
 Bureau of Plant Industry 
 
 WasliiTiKlmi. D. C. 
 
 William Stark, 
 
 l^ouisiana, Mo. 
 
 Season of "Dear Sir; Wherever Die hardiness of 
 
 Planting the tree is absolutely beyond nuestioii. fall 
 
 plantini; is advantageous for many reasons. 
 
 "In our Southern states fall planting goes on clear 
 
 through the winter, even merging into spring planting. 
 
 "Fall planting is advantageous in permitting the fruit 
 grower to get ahead with his work. 
 
 "If the ground is too wet and sogg)', so that it will 
 bake in the spring, or if it is a pasty clay, so that the 
 trees will heave from the frost, it is objectionable. 
 
 "If the ground is unreasonably dry, either from its 
 sandy or shaly te.xture, or from lack of rain, fall planting 
 is dangerous. This is particularly true in the North, 
 where young nursery stock might be more or less tender 
 during severe winters. Under these conditions, trees may 
 be dried out and killed by freezing before they are able to 
 draw the soil moisture." 
 
 Yours very truly, 
 M. n. W.MTE, Pathologist in Charge. 
 
 DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE 
 Oregon Agricultural College and Experiment Station 
 William Stark, Corvallis, Oregon. 
 
 Louisiana, Mo. 
 Dear Sir: 
 
 "In reply to your recent letter concerning fall planting, 
 I will state that for Western Oregon, including the Wil- 
 lamette Valley, I'mpnua Valley and the Coast Counties, 
 also Rogue liiver Valley in Southern Oregon. I would by 
 all means recommend fall planting. For higher altitudes 
 of the stale and for those regions that are subject to low 
 temperature in winter, I would recommend spring plant- 
 ing." Yours sincerely, 
 
 C. P. LEWIS. 
 
 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA 
 College of Agriculture 
 William Stark, Berkeley, California. 
 
 Louisiana. ^lo. 
 Dear Sir: 
 
 "Fall planting and spring planting in California are 
 local matters in the different regions of the state. Over 
 the greater area of the state, fall or early winter planting 
 is superior because the young trees speedily make roots 
 and establish themselves, while spring planting is apt to 
 bring the tree into the dry season without having had an 
 opportunity to thus fortify itself." 
 
 Very sincerely, 
 E. .1. WICKSON, Dean and Director. 
 
 William Stark, Seattle, Washington. 
 
 Louisiana, Mu. 
 Dear Sir: 
 
 "Replying to your inquiry relative to fall planting and 
 spring planting, I would say that for mild climates I 
 much prefer fall planting. Where the climate is too rigor- 
 ous for fall planting, 1 much prefer to get my trees in 
 the fall and heel them in for spring planting." 
 Very truly yours, 
 
 F. WALDEN, Editor "Ranch." 
 
6 THE STARK ORCHARD PI^ANTING BOOK 
 
 A di'essing of manure, applied in the 
 Preparation f^H ^nd tlien plowed under, makes the 
 of Land best possible preparation for planting 
 
 an orchard in the spring. The land 
 should be plowed as deeply as possible, but care 
 should be taken never to turn up more than one inch 
 of the subsoil at a plowing. Then at planting time it 
 is sometimes necessary to plow again, but ordinarily 
 heavy discing and preparation, such as should be 
 made for wheat and other crops, is sufficient. 
 
 Also see pages 10 and 11 for Mr. Wm. T. Page's 
 experience in preparing arid land for planting. 
 
 Drainage is absolutely necessary. Sur- 
 Drainage Plus water must be carried off before 
 
 fruit growing can be made profitable, 
 and this is just as true of the irrigated sections as 
 anywhere else. Most fruit land is rolling or has suf- 
 ficient slope to secure adequate natural drainage. 
 If the soil is of such a texture and the slope of the 
 land is not sufficient, it is necessary to resort to 
 artificial drainage, using open ditches, tiling, or some 
 other similar method. Fruit trees will not thrive in 
 land which is water-logged for any length of time. 
 They are injured directly and indirectly by the poi- 
 sonous condition which accompanies water-logging of 
 the soil. 
 
 Orchard Soils 
 
 In general there are three types of soils; 
 QIgy first, the clay soil, which is the most difficult 
 Soil to prepare. It should be plowed deeply and 
 
 harrowed thoroughly until in good condition 
 for planting. It does not dry out as quickly as 
 other soils, and is inclined to "bake;" therefore, there 
 is less time for working it. Every opportunity should 
 be taken advantage of to cultivate the clay land, re- 
 taining the moisture as well as promoting growth 
 and preventing packing of the soil. Western orchard- 
 men know this; the Eastern man could prevent loss 
 from nine-tenths of our drouths if he would only cul- 
 tivate the ground thoroughly throughout the season. 
 See page 25 for the Western method, outlined in a 
 letter from Mr. Thos. W. Page. 
 
 Like the clay land, loamy- soil should be 
 Loamy plowed deeply. It is usually fertile and 
 Soil does not require manuring as often as does 
 
 the clay or sandy soil. Neither does it re- 
 quire the careful handling as does the clay soil. 
 Trees are apt to grow late in the season on this type 
 of soil, therefore, cultivation should be stopped 
 earlier than it would be in other soils, so that the 
 wood will mature well for winter. 
 
 Sandy soil, while it does not contain as 
 Sandy much plant food as the others, responds 
 Soil quickly to fertilizers and cover crops, and 
 
 under proper management produces highly 
 colored fruit. If the tree does not make a new 
 
THE STAPvK OUCIIAKD PLAXTINC. HOOK 7 
 
 growth at the tip of the branch of at least a foot per 
 season, it is a pietty sure sign that tlie land need§ 
 strengthening with manure and cover crops. 
 
 The land should be plowed deeply before the or- 
 chard is planted. This is i)referably done in the fall. 
 In the spring the ground is prepared as it would be 
 tor any ordinary cultivated crop. 
 
 In the irrigated country the necessary leveling of 
 the ground should be attended to before the orchard 
 is planted so as to facilitate the laying out of irriga- 
 tion ditches. It is better to cultivate most new, or 
 raw land, a year before planting; crop the land, which 
 does not take water readily, for one year before put- 
 ting in an orchard, as it then has a chance to become 
 thoroughly moistened, and in some places where the 
 land is inclined to sink practically all the spots have 
 settled that are going to do so. If, for some reason, 
 it. is not advisable to wait this extra year, plant the 
 trees and give special attention to irrigating the first 
 year. 
 
 There can be no absolute figures given 
 Planting on planting distance as it varies with the 
 Distance kind and fertility of the soil and the va- 
 riety of trees as well as the system of 
 pruning to be followed. As a rule, 30 feet is a good 
 distance for apple, though such varieties as Wag- 
 ener, Rome Beauty, Wealthy and Duchess can be 
 planted as close as 24 feet. Some growers prefer 
 planting them even closer and keeping them pruned 
 within bounds as far as possible, as they find it more 
 satisfactory to spray and gather from the smaller 
 trees. 
 
 ( 
 
 Proper Distance Between Trees and Plants 
 
 .\pple 24 lo .■SO ft. each way 
 
 Ordinarily we recommentl 30 ft. as the most satis- 
 factory, though on very strong land, from 32 to 
 3G ft. is better. 
 
 Apricot Ifi to 20 ft. each way 
 
 Asparagus, 1 to 2 ft. tiet. plants, in rows 3 to 3'/4 ft. apart 
 Blackberries. 3 to 3 ft. bet. plants, in rows 4 to 6 ft. apart 
 Catalpa, Black Locust, etc., for posts 
 
 and timber 8 to 10 ft. each way 
 
 Cherry, Sour Sorts 18 to 20 ft. each way 
 
 Cherry. Sweet Sorts 20 to 30 ft. each way 
 
 Currant 4 ft. l)etween plants, in rows r> ft. apart 
 
 Gooseberries 4 ft. between plants, in rows .5 ft. apart 
 
 Grape 8 to 10 ft. eacli way 
 
 Many vineyardists plant grape vines S ft. apart in 
 the rows, with rows from 10 to 12 ft. apart. 
 
 Hedge Plants 1" to 2 ft. apart 
 
 Mulbenies 25 to 30 ft. each way 
 
 Pecan and Wahiut 35 to 40 ft. each way 
 
 Peach 16 to 20 ft. each way 
 
 Pear, Dwarf 10 to 13 ft. each way 
 
 Pear. Standard 20 to 30 ft. each way 
 
 Plum 10 to 20 ft. each way 
 
 On good soil, the strong growing Japanese sorts 
 should be planted not less than 20 ft. 
 
 Quince lo to lf> ft. each way 
 
 Kaspberries, Black... .s ft. bet. plants, in rows ft. apart 
 
 .'Jome prefer Black Raspberries fixo ft. 
 Raspberries, red, 3 ft. bet. plants, in rows 4 to 5 ft. apart 
 Rhubarb 3 ft. between plants, in rows 4 ft. apart 
 
THE STARK ORCHARD PLANTING BOOK 
 
 p. 
 
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 Figure 3 
 Square or Check Method 
 
 This is the usual plan followed in the past. Trees 
 are equal distance apart and the rows equal dis- 
 tance apart. The permanent trees can be thinned 
 out by removing alternate i-ows. 
 
 The locations of filler trees, should they be 
 planted, are indicated by the letter "F." 
 
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 P'igure i 
 Triangular or Hexagonal Method 
 
 Note that the small circles which represent the 
 location of the permanent trees are equally dis- 
 tant from each other. Also that the circles of one 
 row are opposite the open spaces of the other rows. 
 In this figure the circles are represented as being 
 30 feet apart. Especially note, however, that the 
 top row of circles is only '26 feet from the row 
 below it. It is by planting in this way that it is 
 made possible to get 15% more trees to the acre 
 than in the square or check method. 
 
 The fillers, if any are planted, should be set at 
 points marked "F." Note that the triangular method 
 permits cultivation or irrigation in three different 
 directions. 
 
 When planting by the square (Figure 3) or the 
 rectangular method (Figure 4), the number of trees 
 01 plants per acre can be easily determined. First, 
 multiply the sides of the square or rectangle to- 
 gether, and divide 43,6.50 (the number of square feet 
 in an acre) by the product. When planting by the 
 triangular system, add 15 per cent more to the num- 
 
THK STARK ORCllAr.D PLANTING BOOK 9 
 
 ber of trees required to set out the same area as tho 
 square or rectangular metliod. That is, it planting by 
 the square method, 100 trees are necessary, add ir> 
 per cant more to get the number for the triangular 
 plan. 
 
 Example:— To determine the number of trees, 
 planted, 30x30, required to set ten acres; 
 
 30x30=900 
 
 43,560-^1)00=49 — trees per acre. 
 
 49x10=490 — trees to plant 10 acres on square 
 method. 
 
 490-f-15'/r =.5ij3 — trees to plant 10 acres on trian- 
 gular method. 
 
 Fillers in the Orchard 
 
 There are certain varieties of apple which come 
 into bearing young, and for this reason they are eo- 
 pecially adapted as temporary fillers in an orchard. 
 This does not mean that they are not long-lived, for 
 they are equally suitable as permanent trees. Stark 
 King Uavid is one of the best; also Jonathan, Wag- 
 ener, Grimes Golden, Liveland Raspberry, Wealthy, 
 Duchess, Wilson Red June and Early Melon. 
 
 Cherries are especially adapted as fillers. They 
 are hardy, bear large crops regularly, bring good 
 prices on the local market and come into bearing 
 young. They will yield profitable crops before it is 
 necessary to cut them out in order to make more 
 room for the permanent apple trees. It costs no 
 more to cultivate an orchard with fillers than with- 
 out. The Montmorency makes a splendid filler. 
 Royal Duke is also fine, especially on dry land and 
 in the West, and has straight, upright-growing 
 branches, and for this reason is especially adapted as 
 a filler, as well as a roadside tree. 
 
 .T. H. Hale, the Peach King of Connecticut and 
 Georgia fame, has paid for a number of his larg© 
 apple orchards by planting peach as a filler, and 
 finds it very profitable. 
 
 How to make the young orchard 
 Fillers in the P^iJ' for itself before the trees come 
 
 Apple Orchard into bearing is a problem that 
 
 every fruit grower must face. And 
 in every good farming community the high price of 
 land forces this further question: "How can I get 
 the most from a small space?" 
 
 "I have made $340 an acre at Orchard Farm. Ghent, 
 N. Y., from four crops of fruit on the same ground. The 
 apple trees, planted forty feet apart, were not in bearing. 
 Between them peaches were interplanted twenty feet 
 apart, currants five feet apart, and strawberries in be- 
 tween. The currants paid $75 to $100 an acre, peaches 
 *nu, and strawberries *loo. 
 
 "The great danger in close planting (even in the plan 
 I advocate), is the almost Irresistible temptation to let 
 the •fillers' fruit "Just once more,' to the detriment of tho 
 permanent trees. " — Krom a paper by G. T. Powell. 
 
10 THr; STARK (JRC«ARD PLAXTIXG BOOK 
 
 The orchard should be carefully staked 
 Laying Out out before planting time, so that the 
 the Orchard rows may be true and straight in every 
 direction and from every point. 
 There are two systems of planting — the old square 
 checked method (Figure 3, page 8) and the new tri- 
 angular method (Figure 4, page 8). The latter is the 
 plan recommended by Prof. E. J. Wickson. In both 
 methods the trees are equally distant from one an- 
 other, but in the triangular method the trees in the 
 center row are opposite the open spaces in the top 
 and bottom rows, and because of this the center row 
 can be planted closer to the top and bottom rows, and 
 still the trees will be the required distance apart. 
 This method also permits cultivation in three direc- 
 tions instead of two, as in the old way. Lastly, it 
 accommodates a greater number of trees to the acre, 
 which is explained in the following table: 
 
 CiJ or Square Method 
 
 Per acre 
 
 Trees planted 30 feet apart each way 49 trees 
 
 Trees planted 24 feet apart each way 7.5 trees 
 
 Trees planted 20 feet apart each way 108 trees 
 
 New or Triangular Method 
 
 Per acre 
 
 Trees planted 30 feet apart each way 58 trees 
 
 Trees planted 24 feet apart each way 90 trees 
 
 Trees planted 20 feet apart each way 128 trees 
 
 William Stark, Columbia, Jto. 
 
 Louisiana, Mo. 
 Depth of Dear Sir: 
 
 rlanting "Ordinarily, trees should not be set 
 
 deeper than they were in the nursery row. 
 Man.\" jirowers set them deep with the idea that they will 
 stand more firml.v, just as a deeply set fence post will 
 stand more tlrmly. .Vs a matter of fact, the tree must 
 depend upon its roots making growth to hold It upright. 
 Roots will start much more quickly and abundantly If the 
 root is near the warm surface of the soil * * *." — J. C. 
 ^Vhitten, Prof, of Horticulture. 
 
 In irrigated sections of the West, or when planting 
 on thin, sandy soil, which dries out quickly, plant two 
 to three inches deeper than the trees stood in the 
 nursery row. Dwarf pear are an exception and should 
 be planted four to five inches deeper than they stood 
 In the nursery rov/. 
 
 Planting 20,000 Trees in An Irrigated Country When 
 Irrigation Supply Was Cut Off 
 
 ^"* • • Our irrigation system was not working until 
 July' 1st. BeinK accustomed to ii'rigatk»n in different 
 parts of the country, 1 commenced to look around to see 
 how I was going to come out. I prepared for the worst 
 right at the start. 
 
 "I hired a steam plow to break up the land six inches 
 deep, and as the steam plow made its first furrows across 
 the field. I started four cut-away harrows right after it. 
 The ground had considerable moisture in it at that time. 
 I chopped it up, some of it as much as five times. Of 
 course, this was-a raw place, covered with buffalo sod 
 and not a stick of timber of any kind on it. I had fences 
 
THK STARK ORCHARD PLANTING BOOK 11 
 
 to build, also liouses, barns, corrals, and get the orchard 
 ready. I did all of this with hired teams. When the 
 plowing was done, the harrowing was done also. 
 
 "I set a stake where I wanted every tree. When this 
 was done. 1 sent a message to you to ship the trees, and 
 went out and bought four head of the best horses that 
 money would buy. I also bought two wagons with large 
 water tanks equipped with Meyers pumps and with all the 
 hose connections to handle water rapidly. I put 30 men 
 to dig.^ing holes; two tank wagons followed them, putting 
 about four gallons of water in the bottom of every hole. 
 Hy that time our Montmorency King cherries had landed 
 in Pueblo. I hired a transfer outfit to deliver them, using 
 our own teams to haul water to put in the trench I had 
 prepared for the trees. 
 
 "The trees arrived late in the evening. I tore a hole 
 in each box and jiut water in, then covered the boxes with 
 canvas to protect them from frost. The next morning 1 
 beeled the trees in, tramped the dirt good and tight 
 around them with lots of mud. The next day I started 
 !■* men to planting. I picked out the best and most care- 
 ful men as trampers; filled the holes with dirt, at this 
 time, just full enough to cover all the roots of the trees; 
 then put in about five gallons of water to each tree. After 
 the water had settled, the holes were carefully filled and 
 fiimly tramped. Ry this time all the holes on the entire 
 place were dug and I put the two teams to hauling water 
 and putting it Into the apple tree holes. By the time the 
 apple trees arrived here I had between four and five gal- 
 lons of water in the bottom of every hole. 
 
 "We received the apple trees early in the morning. I 
 did Just exactly with the apple trees as 1 did with the 
 cherries. I also had a team and wagon with a grout bar- 
 rel, and had a man in the wagon to grout the trees and 
 see to it that no planter had over two trees in the air al 
 one time. 
 
 "This treatment and the careful attention the trees 
 had generally, is the caus„ of our success. I lost no Jon- 
 athan and very few of any other variety." — Wm. T. Page, 
 Wilson, Colorado. 
 
 The hole for the tree should be largo 
 enough to let all roots rest naturall.v 
 DigKing without crowding. A common practice 
 
 the Holes jg jq plow both ways, enlarging the fur- 
 rows with a shovel and planting the 
 trees at the intersection of the furrows. Others 
 plow just one way and mark the points where the 
 trees are to go along the furrows. Whichever method 
 you use, be very careful to have the trees lined out 
 neatly and accurately,, not only for appearance sake, 
 but to make easier all orchard operations. Orchard- 
 ists sometimes plant the trees slightly leaning in the 
 direction of the prevailing wind, or towards the 
 southwest, so that the shade will protect the trunks 
 from sun-scald. This is sometimes helpful, but if the 
 right side of a tree is planted toward the prevailing 
 winds, or the southwest, leaning will usually be un- 
 necessary. The method of determining the right side 
 is described as follows: 
 
 William Stark, Columbia, Missouri. 
 
 Louisiana, Mo. 
 Dear Sir: 
 
 "Xo matter how straight or symmetrical the fruit tree, 
 it will have a heavy side and a light side. The annual 
 layer Is thicker on one side of the tree than on the oppo- 
 site side, so that the pith of the tree is not at the center 
 of the trunk, but rather toward one side. Wlien the tree 
 is taken up to be planted, it may be balanced across the 
 left hand. As it takes its position of balance, the side 
 
1i THE .STAKK ORCHARD PLANTING BOOK 
 
 next the hand should be planted toward the southwest or 
 the 2 o'clock sun in the afternoon. Set in this way, it will 
 be found that the tree will bend very easily toward the 
 southwest, but will bend much less readily in the opposite 
 direction. Planting: this side toward the southwest, or 
 the side toward which the main limbs (generally tend to 
 bend, enables the tree much better to stand up against 
 the wind and the blistering sunlight. " 
 Very truly, 
 J. C. WHITTEN, Prof, of Horticulture. 
 
 A small charge of dynamite is ex- 
 Dynamiting ploded in the ground where the tree 
 
 is to be planted. This is especially ad- 
 vantageous where there is a "hard pan," or an imper- 
 vious clay, or gravel sub-soil. It loosens the soil for 
 a number of feet and the roots of the young trees 
 have a greater area of soil in which to feed. 
 
 It is to the impervious sub-soil what cultivation is 
 to the top soil. The entire field is sometimes dyna- 
 mited in special cases. The powder companies will 
 give detailed information for doing the work. I will 
 be glad to give the names of powder manufacturers 
 on application. 
 
 Jlr. William Stark, 
 
 Louisiana, Jlo. 
 Dear Sir: 
 
 The greatest success in labor-saving devices we have 
 had on our orchard has been digging the holes with dyna- 
 mite. Last spring we set some nice little yearling apple 
 trees from Stark Bro's Nursery. This fall it was found 
 necessary to move some of them and their root growth 
 was wonderful, one of them having a strong root growing 
 straight down at least 3 '» feet long, and many others fully 
 two feet, with lots of small growth. One set in a hand-dug 
 hole had a nice bunch of roots, but they were none of 
 them a foot long. This ground is a beautiful loam, with 
 a little stone in it. and runs from ft to 6 feet in depth. 
 These dynamite planted trees are very fine and of course 
 they had the advantage of being Stark trees and first- 
 class stock. Tours very truly, 
 
 ESTELLE M. RAWLEY. Josephine County, Oregon. 
 
 In handling the trees always re- 
 Protect Roots member to protect the roots from 
 From all exposure, keeping them covered 
 
 Exposure with moist packing or damp sacks. 
 
 Many orchardists place a barrel 
 half full of water on a wagon and haul this through 
 the orchard, taking the trees from the barrel as they 
 are planted. Others dip the trees in water and place 
 them in the wagon and cover thera up to prevent the 
 water from drying before the trees are set out. 
 
 When the weather is hot and the buds swollen, 
 special care should be taken to prevent water getting 
 on the enlarged tender buds. 
 
 William Stark, Grand Valley, Colo. 
 
 Louisiana, Mo. 
 Dear Sir: 
 
 "At Worrisania we use a tank in which to place roots 
 <.r fruit trees to be planted. This tank is mounted on a 
 flat-bottomed wagon and about two feet of water is 
 placed in the same, a-nd as an additional protection we 
 use abo\it half a gallon of Black Leaf toliacco extract to 
 a barrel of water and in this mixture the roots are kept 
 iintnersed until they are planted. One man rides on the 
 
THK STARK OliCIIAKD ri>A.\"TIXG BOOK 
 
 wagon and drives, and he takes the trees from the tank, 
 trims tlie roots and hands to the planters. One good man 
 can keep two j^ood planters busy." — James M. Irvine, 
 ICditor, 7he Fruil-Grolver. 
 
 William Stark, Columbia, Mo. 
 
 I^Q0t Louisiana. Mo. 
 
 Prunine "^^'" '^''■• 
 
 riuuiu^ •■••»! believe that you would get 
 
 better results by trimming the small fi- 
 brous roots to short stubs. For two or three years, we 
 replanted hundreds of trees in the same holes where trees 
 had died out in the orchartl from root rot. We soon found, 
 however, that it would not matter very much what varie- 
 ty we planted where a tree had died from root rot, that it 
 was almost sure to live if we pruned off all the dead fi- 
 bers, cut off any bruised or diseased ends of roots with a 
 smooth cut and got the root system in close capillary con- 
 tact with the soil when we planted. In this particular 
 spring, every single tree lived where the pruning was 
 done. That was seven years ago, and last year I went 
 over the plot and fotmd that every one of those replanted 
 — about 300 in all — were still living. In replanting we 
 were sure to see lo it that the root-rot fungus was always 
 placed back in the hole with the soil so as to be sure to 
 Iiave plenty of infecli'in, and in order to see which of these 
 r<iots were more resistant. Even the most susceptible ones 
 lived where dead parts of the roots were cut off with a 
 smooth cut and where the soil was gotten well in contact 
 with the root in planting. We had previously made re- 
 plants for root-rot before we had even gotten in mind 
 pruning off fibrous roots or cutting back old rough wounds 
 where the main roots were cut off in taking them up with 
 the digger. In these cases the majority of the replants 
 lived and yet many of them took root rot. Many of them 
 became infected with it the first year before well estab- 
 li.shed." Xery truly, 
 
 J. C. WHITTEN, Prof, of Horticulture. 
 
 The above matter, taken from Professor Whitten's 
 letter, should not be confused with the Stringfellow 
 method of planting, which is not to be recommended. 
 The root rot is a disease in certain parts of the 
 South, causing considerable trouble, and very littla 
 is known of it, but Pi'ofessor Whitten in a series of 
 experiments, first demonstrated that by careful prun- 
 ing and planting of the roots, as described above, 
 young trees can be replanted successfully in the 
 orchard in places from which diseased trees have 
 been removed. 
 
 The fine top soil should be placed in 
 Filling ^^^ ''°'6 around the roots, tlie trees 
 
 the Hole moved slightly so as to settle the soil, 
 
 leaviiig no air pockets, and pressed 
 firmly about the roots. When the hole is nearly 
 three-fourths full, water, and then fill in the remain- 
 der of the hole with loose soil. In irrigated countries 
 trees should be watered at the time they are set, and 
 again ten to twelve days later. 
 
 The number of acres of apple orchard a man can 
 set depends on the condition of the land and other 
 factors. However, Paddock & Whipple give the fol- 
 lowing report: 
 
 "The ground was laid out by plowing furrows both 
 ways as described above — fourteen men were actual- 
 ly engaged in the i)lanting, two were distributing 
 trees from the wagon, six digging the holes and fill- 
 
14 THE STARK ORCHARD PLANTING BOOK 
 
 ing in about the trees, with the other six trimming 
 and placing the trees. These fourteen men set 20 
 acres per day without difficulty, and set them well. 
 
 "Trees should be handled carefully in planting, 
 and the roots should be exposed to the air no longer 
 than necessary. If the force of men is large, the plan 
 of hauling the trees in a wagon, with men to dis- 
 tribute them, is a good one. With the furrow method 
 of planting, the man with the shovel may dig the 
 hole, while the other prunes the roots, and if he is to 
 be trusted, the top." 
 
 Where the soil is very dry, fill the hole two-thirds 
 full of earth, packing it thoroughly among the roots 
 as described above, then pouring in four or five gal- 
 lons of water. Pill in the balance of the hole with 
 loose earth, but do not press down firmly. There 
 will be less evaporation if several inches of loose soil 
 are placed on top than there will be if all of the 
 earth is packed firmly. 
 
 Cherry should be given special care in planting, 
 as the tops are not cut back, like they are on other 
 trees. In planting cherry, several gallons or more of 
 water should be poured on the ground about each 
 tree. A teaspoontul of nitrate of soda to each gallon 
 of water helps to start the tree off in good shape. A 
 solution made by soaking a bushel of manure in a 
 barrel of water is better, but takes more time. Also 
 a light dressing of well-rotted manure placed on the 
 ground about each tree Is beneficial. 
 
 Never put bulky manure or trash in the hole with 
 the tr^e. It is apt to dry out and cause death of 
 tree. Instead, place the manure -or the fertilizer on 
 the surface of ground about the tree, but never in 
 actual contact with the trunk. 
 
 Pruning 
 
 The newly planted tree should be 
 Pruning at pruned before it starts growth in 
 
 Planting Time the spring, and pruning should be 
 
 given careful attention from then 
 on, but especially while the tree is young. When a 
 young tree is dug a number of the roots are lost and 
 a corresponding amount of the top should be removed 
 in order to maintain an even balance. This does not 
 apply to cherry. 
 
 In pruning, you cannot go by an exact rule. Study 
 the nature of the tree. Peach and apple are differ- 
 ent. Prune each according to its needs. Also, differ- 
 ent varieties require different treatment. Some vari- 
 eties of apple have low and spreading heads and 
 should be pruned to make them develop an upright 
 growth as much as possible. Others have straight, 
 upright branches, and should be pruned so they will 
 spread more, and be nearer the ideal tree. Then, too. 
 some individual trees have peculiarities of their own 
 and require special treatment and study. 
 
TH1-: STAUK OnCMARD FI.AXTIXG BuuK 15 
 
 Do not lea\c the wire label twisted on the tree in 
 such a position that it will cut into it as the tree 
 grows bigger. 
 
 "The proper formation of the top is by 
 ,j. i . 110 means the leasl important reason for 
 
 Hign ^° cnttinK back the brandies of newly planted 
 
 Low Heads trees. In the first place, the importance of 
 Sua-Scald low-heaticd trees for this climate cannot 
 be too strongly emphasized. Hundreds of 
 trees are dyins in all parts of the West because of the 
 exposure of the long trunks to the afternoon sun, either 
 directly or by reflectitin, from hot, dry r.oil in summer, or 
 from snow in winter. YounK trees are especially liable to 
 injury, which results in early death or a weak, sickly 
 growth, from whit-h they never recover. There is less in- 
 jury from sun-scald in the humid states, but in those dis- 
 tricts many authorities are advocating lower headed 
 trees." 
 
 "In addition to forming low heads, there can be no 
 nueslion liut that it. pays still further to protect the 
 trunks of newly planted trees from injury by sun-scald. 
 Various devices are used, such as wrapping the trunks 
 with burlap, paiier. straw, wood veneer, or by shading the 
 trunk on the southwest side with a thin piece of board 
 (•) set upright in the ground. Whitewashing the young 
 trunks to serve the same purpose has come to be exten- 
 sively used in some sections. \\'hatever method is adopted 
 It should be employ f^d soon after the trees are planted 
 and continued in good condition through the second win- 
 ter, or until the shade of the trees becomes ample." 
 
 "The advantage of the low-headed trees may be stated 
 to be greater ease in picking, thinning, pruning and 
 siiraying. and less dam.age to trees and fruit from winds," 
 — From Paddock & Whipple's Fruit Groining in Arid Kegions. 
 
 There are two general forms in which a tree may 
 be developed — one is the pyramidal form, with the 
 central leader with small branches around it, which 
 eventually gives a high "two-storied" tree. The 
 other is without a central leader, giving a vase- 
 shaped tree, all branches being about the same size. 
 This is by far the best in most cases, as the tree is 
 not spoiled in case there is Injury to any one branch, 
 as would be the case if the central leader were de- 
 stroyed in the pyramidal tree. Also, it greatly facili- 
 tates pruning, spraying, gathering, thinning, and 
 makes it possible to keep the head open, thus allow- 
 ing abundant sunshine and free circulation of air. 
 
 William Stark, Columbia, Mo. 
 
 I>ouisiana, iMo. 
 r» V OIH I'ear Sir: 
 
 Une-Year-uia .-some years ago the Experiment 
 
 c\t,t X \ station sent out •2..iOO circular letters 
 
 Old Apple iQ Missouri orchardists asking for 
 
 Trees for their experiences with regard to plant- 
 
 Planting ing one-year-old or two-year-old trees. 
 
 About one-fourth of them said uncon- 
 ditionally they would prefer to plant 
 one-year-old trees. Nearly all of the three-fourths who 
 said they would prefer two-year-olds make this statement 
 conditional. Many of them said they would prefer one- 
 year-old trees, provided they could get large one-year- 
 olds, but would usually prefer to risk the larger two- 
 >ear-old trees for the reason that they could not always 
 secure large one-year-olds. The sum total of their re- 
 ports indicated that If the one-year-old trees were large 
 and well grown, they gave results superior to two-year- 
 olds. 
 
 •This latter method is the most satisfactory, since it 
 does not make the tree trunk tender by shutting out air. 
 
ir, THE STARK ORCHARD PLANTING BOOK 
 
 'Tn our own experience at the Experiment Station, we 
 prefei' one-year-old trees, provided we can get tliem well 
 grown and four feet or upwards in height. 
 
 "If one-year-olds are less than three feet in height, we 
 would prefer two-year-old trees. The one-year-old trees 
 can be headed at any height which the planter desires. 
 Tliey can subsequently he pruned and shaped at the will 
 of the planter, without interfering with a frame-work 
 wliich has previously been formed in the nursery. They 
 ran be handled and planted with much less labor. They 
 occasionally wilt less, and are far less liable to lean or to 
 have roots loo.sened in wet, windy times, than are the 
 liisger two-year-olds. They can be readily cultivated 
 close the first year without barking limbs already formed. 
 
 "Two-year-olds well branched when shipped are like- 
 ly to have their branches more or less broken in handling, 
 even though the best care is talien in packing, shipping 
 and planting. With one-year-olds there is no such dan- 
 ger. On well-grown one-year-olds a better root system 
 can always be secured in proportion to the tree. 
 
 "I believe that apple growers have preferred two-year- 
 olds. It is larger; because under neglect the one-year-old 
 is more likely to be overgrown by weeds or too much 
 shaded by corn or other crops, if the latter are planted 
 too close to the tree. In no case, however, should weeds 
 be allowed to grow close enough to shade one-year-old 
 trees. I do not think a two-year tree should be chosen, 
 sinipl.v because it is big enough to better avoid being 
 overtopped Ijy weeds or encroaching crops. 
 
 "It is our belief here at the Station that the one-year- 
 old tree is the better, more economical, and the safer tree 
 to plant." — J. C. Whitten, Horticulturist. 
 
 A great deal depends upon proper and consistent 
 pruning. Don't let the trees go unattended for sev-. 
 eral years, and then try to saw them into shape. Do 
 what pruning is necessary each season. Bear in mind 
 that trees in a coo!, moist climate require less prun- 
 ing than do those in a hot, dry climate. 
 
 The yearling apple tree, as it comes 
 Pruning One- from the nursery, is usually a 
 Year Apple straight whip, and should be cut 
 
 back as soon as planted. Allow 14 
 to 16 inches upon which to develop the head, and 18 
 to 24 inches for the trunk, depending on how high 
 lieaded a tree you desire. Make a slightly sloping 
 cut just above a sound bud (Figure 5, page 17). It 
 will be much easier and more profitable to grow the 
 tree and shape it as it is growing than to let it go 
 unpruned and then try to cut or saw it into the proper 
 shape. Pinch off all shoots on the lower part of the 
 trunk as fast as they appear, and do not allcw more 
 than tour to six shoots to grow on the upper 14 to 16 
 inches from which the head is to be developed. These 
 should be arranged spirally, as nearly as possible, 
 around the main stem, so as to avoid weak crotches. 
 If the branches grow unevenly, pinch the end of the 
 stronger shoots to check them. 
 
 Pruning can be done in winter, but preferably in 
 late winter or early spring. For the first tour years 
 or more cut back one-third to one-half of each sea- 
 son's growth, so as to get a low head, then go over 
 the tree three or tour times during the first part of 
 the summer and pinch the ends off the tender young 
 shoots that you do not want to grow into permanent 
 branches. Leave these stubs or spurs on the main 
 
THK STARK OliCHAltP rLAXTIXG DOOK 
 
 17 
 
 branches. These little fruit spurs bear the apples, 
 and the more of them distributed close to the body 
 and main branches of the tree, the larger the load of 
 fruit it can bear. It the young tree is trained in this 
 way until it comes into bearing, comparatively little 
 pruning will be necessary thereafter. When trees are 
 headed low with the main branches covered with 
 fruit spurs their entire length, the fruit thinned so as 
 to stimulate annual bearing, the strength of the tree 
 
 Pruning One-Year Apple and Pear 
 
 Use a sharp Unife maklns a sloping cut just above 
 a sound buii. Note position and way knife is held, 
 also the way the right foot is placed close to tree 
 when makiiiK the cut. As soon as the buds start, 
 any on tlic lower half of the tree slioukl be rubbed 
 off with a gloved hand. When the shoots on the 
 upper half are several inches long, cut out all but 
 three to six with a sharp knife. Those which re- 
 main should be arraiiped around the tree as nearly 
 like a flight of spiral stairsteps as possible. 
 
18 
 
 THE STAUK onCHARD PLAXTIN'G BOOK 
 
 ■will be expended in the production of fruit, ratlier 
 than surplus wood. 
 
 Figure 
 Pruning Two-Year Apple and Tear 
 
 The unnecessary branches were first cut out. 
 The five remaining Ijranches were shortened bacli 
 six to eight inches on tliis size tree (medium size, i 
 to .1 feet). Standing over this particular tree and 
 looking down, the five brandies radiate from the 
 central trunli like tlie five points ot a star, but the 
 top one is ten iiiclies or more above the bottom one. 
 
 This tree was headed lower than is usually done 
 in the East, but not quite as low as is done in many 
 of the Western orchards, especially in those sec- 
 tions where it is very necessary to have the 
 tranche.'; shade the trunk from the hot sun. Xote 
 that loose earth has been thrown up around the tree 
 several inches deep. This last several inches should 
 not be tramped down, but left loose to prevent dry- 
 ing out of the soil beneath. 
 
 For Fall planting it is often advisable to mound 
 the earth up eight or ten inches. This should be 
 raked down in the spring. 
 
Till-: STAItIC oriCHAUD rLANTIXG BOOK 19 
 
 Where pruning for a vase-shaped 
 Pruning Two- tree, cut back the central leader, re-. 
 Year Apple moving all but three to six of the 
 
 remaining branches, and then short- 
 en these back to within about six to twelve inches of 
 the main stem, depending on the size of the nursery 
 tree wliich you are planting, making a slightly slop- 
 ing cut just above a sound bud which is pointing in 
 the direction you want the branch to take. (Fig- 
 ure t), page 18.) 
 
 In a general way, the pear is pruned at 
 Pruning the planting time, and thereafter in 
 the Pear about the same way as the apple, al- 
 though on very fertile soils it should be 
 pruned a great deal less, so as not to make it develop 
 a large number of water sprouts, as these are easily 
 infected by blight and should be cut or pinched off as 
 fast as they appear. Light pruning does not hurt 
 any variety of pear and is very beneficial to such 
 sorts as Anjou, which is tardy coming into bearing, 
 and the young trees are inclined to drop their fruit 
 after it is "set." Severe pruning in the winter will 
 prevent this, and iusure a good crop of fruit. The 
 trees should be cut back each year, and some of the 
 new wood that may have been forced by the pruning 
 should also be cut out. When once the young trees 
 begin to bear, there will be little trouble about shed- 
 ding. 
 
 Cherry trees require little or no pruning 
 Pruning ^t planting time, and not a great deal 
 Cherry afterwards. Remove any injured or 
 
 broken branches which cross and inter- 
 fere. The buds on the old cherry wood are dormant 
 and less apt to grow than those near the tips of the 
 branches, hence if you cut off the tips you remove 
 the most valuable buds. If there are too many 
 branches and some should be removed, cut off the 
 entire branch, but do not shorten it back. In prun- 
 ing the sweet cherry it is often necessary to cut back 
 the central leader in order to prevent them growing 
 too tall and willowy. Care should be taken, however, 
 not to prune it too severely and thereby stimulate 
 the growth, nor to give it too much water in the irri- 
 gated countries, for if this is done, it may go into the 
 winter in an immature condition and be winter killed. 
 
 In planting the peach tree, remove the 
 Pruning central leader and all but three to six 
 Peach of the branches, then cut each of these 
 
 back to the one good bud. Always prune 
 the peach severely; it is a rapid grower. For the first 
 several years cut back half or more of the new 
 growth in order to develop strong, stocky branches. 
 The low-headed peach is considered to be the most 
 profitable and the head is usually kept within a foot 
 or even closer to the ground, so that picking and 
 other operations can be performed without the use of 
 ladders. Keep the head open and without a central 
 
20 THE STAKK ORCHARD PLANTING BOOK 
 
 leader, so that there will be a free circulation of air 
 and an abundance of sunshine. Remember in prun- 
 ing the peacli that its bearing habit is peculiar and 
 different from that of most other fruits. The peaches 
 of this year are borne on tlie growth of last season. 
 Tf the peach goes unpruned, there is an accumulation 
 of wood which carries the bearing wood farther and 
 farther above the ground. Plums are pruned prac- 
 tically the same as peaches, except that the varieties 
 vary somewhat in rapidity and nature of growth. 
 
 At planting time, the plum should be cut 
 Plum baclv much the same way as the peach. 
 
 Pruning Subsequent pruning varies with the type 
 
 of fruit. The Domestica type require 
 less pruning than apple trees, while rank growers of 
 our native plums, like Wild Goose Improved and 
 others, which make thiclc heads, need more branches 
 taken out in order to thin the heads. However, the 
 less of this necessary, the better, as they do not re- 
 spond to pruning as w'ell as the peach. Rank grow- 
 ers, like the Burbank, require heading in each season. 
 
 After the grape vines are planted, cut back 
 Grape each cane to within several inches of the 
 Pruning ground, leaving about two buds on each 
 
 cane. The shoots which start from these 
 buds may be allowed to grow over the ground the 
 following season. The following winter the vines 
 should be pruned and during the second season it 
 should be tied up to a temporary stake. The trellis, 
 or whatever form of permanent support is intended, 
 should be built the third spring. The kind of pruning 
 given the second spring depends upon what method 
 you expect to follow. If you are training it for an 
 arbor in the garden, all the shoots can be cut off ex- 
 cept one, and this tied over the arbor and pinched 
 back occasionally to make it branch. Here the object 
 is to get growth and shade to cover the arbor, as 
 well as fruit. 
 
 In planting a commercial vineyard, there are a 
 great number of systems used in pruning the grape: 
 however, practically all of them depend on removing 
 annually most of the wood which bore fruit that sea- 
 son. The grape is a rapid grower and must be 
 pruned heavier than any other fruit, making it possi- 
 ble to control the fruiting most systematically. When 
 once a vineyard is established, it is pruned about the 
 same way each year. 
 
 The following is descriptive of one method used 
 extensively in commercial vineyards in the Lake Erie 
 Grape Belt and other Eastern districts: 
 
 The spring of the second year after planting, all 
 of the shoots are cut off except one. This is trained 
 to a temporary stake. Two shoots are allowed to 
 grow out from the central stem about two feet above 
 the ground, so that later they can be trained along 
 the bottom wire of the trellis. Two more shoots are 
 
THE .STARK OUCIIAlUi I'l.AXTI.N' : H'JOK 21 
 
 allowed to grow out at about four feet above tlie 
 ground so that they may be trained in both directions 
 along the top wire of the trellis. The main or central 
 stem is pinched back a little above the two upper 
 shoots, which brings the top of the central trunk 
 about in line with the top of the trellis, four feet 
 tibove the ground. (The third year after planting, the 
 trellis should be made, two strands of galvanized wire 
 bring used, one about two feet above ground and the 
 other four feet above ground, fastened to the posts 
 set between the vines with wire staples. The posts 
 should be doubly braced at each end of the row.) 
 There should be a main central trunk with two canes 
 which run in either direction along the lower trellis, 
 and two canes which run in either direction along the 
 upper trellis. These should be tied along the wire 
 the coining season to prevent their hanging down. 
 
 The fourth winter, cut off these two-year-old lat- 
 erals, except the four young canes growing from the m 
 near the main stalk, two starting from the main stalk 
 uear the bottom wire, and two near the top wire. 
 (Figure S, page 22.) Also cut back a young cane to a 
 spur with two or three buds near the base of each of 
 these four yearling canes. The jearlingcane will bear 
 the fruit the next year, while this spur will develop 
 a cane which will bear fruit the year after. Where 
 the vine is not making a vigorous growth, the num- 
 ber of these arms can be lessened or the canes can 
 be shortened back to four or eight buds, thus prevent- 
 ing the vines bearing too heavily. If the vineyard 
 is allowed to over-produce one year, it will bear a 
 light croj) the next season. After the vine is once 
 established and pruned each spring, it will appear 
 as follows: 
 
 Figure 7 
 Grape Pruning 
 
 The above is a diagrammatical drawing repre- 
 senting a Ijearing vine in the fall of tite year before 
 pruning Is begun. 
 
THE STAPaC ORCHARD PLANTING BOOK 
 
 "A" are the four one-year-old canes wliicli are 
 to bear next years crop. 
 
 "B" are the four two-year-old canes, which were 
 tied along the wires the previous spring when they 
 were one year old, and which bore fruit during the 
 summer, and are now of no further use. 
 
 "C" are the points where tlie two-year-old canes 
 will be cut away and entirely removed. 
 
 Figurs S 
 Grape Pruning 
 
 The above shows the vine after it has been 
 pruned in the early winter. The one-year canes 
 are stretched alon.c; the wire in the spring and tied 
 there before the growth starts. When the laterals 
 from this cane start to grow in the spring they 
 drop on either side of the wire, straddling it (see 
 figure 7), so that no further tying is necessary 
 during tlie summer. 
 
 In addition to the yearling canes which were left 
 on the stub, cut back at C, there is also a short 
 spur where another cane has been cut back, leav- 
 ing only one bud. A cane will grow from this bud 
 next season and will be trained along the wire two 
 years later. 
 
 The lateral stubs left by making cut at C are 
 €ntirel>' renioved every few years as they get 
 rough, and a new shoot trained out directly from 
 tlie main trunk. 
 
 The size of the crop a vine should bear depends 
 upon its vigor and age; this is regulated by short- 
 ening back these yearling canes in the spring (when 
 they are tied up) to 4 to S buds. The upper canes 
 are usually left longer than the lower ones. 
 
 The main trunk, or arm, as it is sometimes called, 
 is permanently tied to the two wires. 
 
 A permanent central stalk or stem reaching from 
 the ground to the top of the trellis. Half way up the 
 stalk there will be two arms, usually about two years 
 old, growing from this side arm there will be a year- 
 ling cane which will bear fruit the coming season. 
 (Figure 7, page 21). Also, starting from the same side 
 arm there will be a spur with one bud on it which will 
 develop a cane to bear the crop the following year. 
 Then, four feet from the ground, there are also two 
 yearling canes and two spurs, one of each running in 
 either direction along the top wire. 
 
 The canes of the red raspberry grow 
 Pruning Red up from different points along the 
 Raspberry root. They should be allowed to 
 
 grov\' all summer, then in the late 
 Avinter or early spring cut them back to within two or 
 
Till-: STAItK ()UCH.\1CL> I'LAXTINO BOOK 23 
 
 three feet of the ground, depending on whether they 
 are a tall or low-growing variety. At this time also 
 remove all canes that bore fruit the previous sea- 
 son. They never bear but once. If there are any 
 small, weakly canes which seem to be more than the 
 roots can nourish, cut those out also. Better have a 
 few vigorous canes than a number of sickly ones. 
 
 These are very much like the red 
 Pruning Black raspberry, except that all of the 
 Raspberry new shoots put out from a single 
 
 crown, instead of from the roots, 
 and will never spread like the red raspberry. The 
 young or black-cap canes require summer pinching. 
 Wlien they are about 1'^ feet high, pinch out the 
 young, tender tips in order to make them branch. 
 
 The blackberry spreads from the 
 Pruning the roots like the red raspberry and 
 
 Blackberry does not grow from a single crown, 
 
 like the black raspberry; however, 
 the young shoots are pinched like those of the black 
 raspberry, in order to make them branch, except that 
 the strong-growing varieties should be allowed to get 
 2 to 2U feet high before they are pinched. In pinching 
 the blackberry and raspberry, do not let the branches 
 get high and then cut them back, but pinch the tips 
 while they are young. 
 
 The currant will continue to bear for 
 Pruning the some time without any pruning, but 
 Currant this leads to its eventual lack of pro- 
 
 ductiveness. Usually a cane should be 
 cut out as soon as it is about five years old and has 
 borne two or three crops. Allow several young canes 
 to develop each season and cut out several of the old 
 canes. A vigorous bush should not have more than 
 four to eight bearing canes at a time. 
 
 'i'he gooseberry is pruned very much 
 Pruning the like currant. However, the canes can- 
 Gooseberry not be allowed to stand as long as they 
 
 can on the currant. Whenever the 
 bush is not producing well, prune out the old canes, 
 giving the younger canes a better chance. Never 
 allow the bush to become clogged with thorny, weak, 
 useless wood, which saps the vitality of the plant. 
 
 The most beautiful of all flowers, the 
 Roses Rose, is usually propagated by one of 
 
 two methods. First, by growing from 
 cuttings and greenwood tips which gives a plant on 
 its own roots. Second, by budding on manetti or 
 other hardy and vigorous brier stocks. This method 
 gives a stronger growing plant and is necessary for 
 many of the less vigorous varieties. 
 
 The objection to this method is that it requires 
 some care and attention in pruning, else the brier 
 stock will put out suckers below the bud and even- 
 tually crowd it out. The growth from the bud is less 
 \igorous and sometimes the suckers from the brier 
 
24 THE STARK ORCHARD PLANTING BOOK 
 
 stock are allowed to remain by those who cannot dis- 
 tinguish one from the other. This mistake is unnec- 
 essary as the sucker growing from the brier stock is 
 easily recognized for it has seven leaflets instead of 
 five, the cane is nearly covered with small thorns and 
 the sucker coming up from the root is usually several 
 inches distant from the main plant. 
 
 When planting budded roses set them so that the 
 point where the bud was inserted in the brier stock 
 is two inches below the surface. 
 
 The hardy roses can be planted in the fall — others 
 should not be planted until spring. Cut back canes 
 to 16-18 inches and mound loose earth and trash up 
 around the bush six to ten inches high. (Cover bal- 
 ance with straw if planting in the fall in a locality 
 subject to severe dry freezing weather.) The mound 
 of earth should be placed about the bush whether the 
 planting is done in fall or spring for as much damage 
 is done to the pithy canes of the rose bush at plant- 
 ing time by drying out as is done by freezing during 
 the winter. As soon as the buds start to grow in the 
 spring, rake away the mound of earth and cut back 
 the canes again, leaving two to four buds to each 
 cane. Make this cut just above a sound outside bud 
 so that the new growth will grow outward, making a 
 shapely bush. 
 
 Prune roses heavily each spring and give the 
 rose bed several dressings of well rotted manure or 
 other fertilizer each season. The richer the soil of 
 the rose bed the better, and the more abundant will 
 be the bloom. 
 
 Cultivation of Orchards 
 
 To get the best results, young as well as old or- 
 chards should be cultivated. The method used on 
 the young orchard depends on whether crops, such 
 as potatoes, beans, etc., are grown between the rows 
 or not. Such a practice is all right for a short time, 
 where the land is fertile, but should not be continued 
 indefinitely as land should be kept fertile for the 
 trees. 
 
 A bearing orchard should be plowed in the spring 
 with a two-horse plow, as close as possible to do so 
 without injuring the roots, and then use a one-horse 
 plow and get in closer. Finally, clear out the ground 
 and get close to the tree with a hoe, and then culti- 
 vate every two weeks with a spring tooth or a cut- 
 away harrow. In some parts of the country, where 
 the soil is light, this cultivation with a cut-away har- 
 row is all that is necessary, and with an extension 
 attachment the land can be worked close up to the 
 tree. 
 
 In the middle of the summer sow cover crops. 
 Where clover is used, it is all right to allow it to re- 
 main on that summer and all the next season, plow- 
 
THE sTAKK ouchaki) im. anting book 25 
 
 iiig it under the second spring. However, in plowing 
 under tiiis clover and in orchards which liave been 
 in sod some time, care must be talien not to injure 
 the roots, as they are near the surface. 
 
 Cultivation should cease — as well as irrigation — 
 early enough in the season to allow all of the young 
 wood to ripen tiiorrughly. so that it will not be soft 
 and teuiier and subject to injury by freezing. 
 
 The following method of cultivation is applicable 
 to other fruits beside the cherry. If more of this 
 intensive cultivation were done in the East, the in- 
 creased crops would more than pay for it. and nine- 
 tenths of the rislis and damage from drouths would 
 bo eliminated. This method was successful where 
 the average yearly rainfall was 15 to 18 inches. 
 
 William Stark, 
 
 I^oui.<<iana, Xlo. 
 Dear Sir: 
 
 ity experience of twenty-two years is that sour cher- 
 ries (Montmorency. Wratjs. etc.) are the most profitalile 
 fruit grown in the mountains of eastern Colorado. In the 
 first place, you don't need water to irrigate them. First 
 plow your land deep, using a breaking plow; follow with a 
 stirring sub-soil plow, Vou can plow 15 or IG inches 
 deep this way. Then plant good, strong two-year trees in 
 the spring as early as you can, pressing the soil firm to 
 the roots. They will then be ready to start with the vege- 
 tation. Cultivate them thorouglily by using the cut-away 
 harrow, following with a good leveler — not a roller. (You 
 can make your own leveler.) The idea is to keep a 
 smooth surface to hold the moisture. When it rains, go 
 over the land just as soon as it begins to dry on top. 
 Don't lei it form a crust, for if you do, you will lose the 
 moisture that has fallen, Uon't stop cultivating because 
 it doesn't rain; but keep cultivating once a week until 
 Septemljer. You will then find you have a good, strong 
 growtli on your trees, and the buds will be ripe for fruit. 
 Keep your trees thinned by leaving just enough limbs on 
 the body. Leave the twigs on the limbs. There is where 
 the fruit buds set. 
 
 Some people say it costs more to cultivate than to irri- 
 gate. I know that is not true. After the trees are 
 planted, one man with three horses and a No. 7 Clark's 
 cut-away liarrow can lake care of 60 acres, and do it 
 easily. Yours for cherries, THOS. W. PAGE. 
 
 Cover Crops in the Orchard 
 
 During June and .July, depending on the season, 
 sow cover crops. Cover crops may be divided in two 
 groups — those that take free nitrogen from the air, 
 thus adding it to the soil (clover, cowpeas, vetch, 
 etc.) and those using only the nitrogen already in the 
 soil (rye, oats, etc.). The former build up the fertil- 
 ity of the soil, while the latter only catch the fertility 
 already in the soil, and carry it over until the next 
 season, when the tree can use it, thus preventing any 
 wastage. A cover crop on the ground throughout the 
 winter not only prevents washing, which is so disas- 
 trous, but holds the winter snows and lessens the 
 depth of alternate freezing and thawing. It also tends 
 to delay growth in the spring until after the killing 
 frosts. In gathering the fruit in the fall, it makes 
 picking and hauling a cheaper and cleaner job. 
 
26 THK STA!!K (>RCH.\[tlJ PLAXTIXG BOOK 
 
 In California, especially the southern part of the 
 state, it is preferable to sow cover crops in Septem- 
 ber, where it is possible to get enough moisture to 
 germinate, turning them under the coming spring. In 
 California, the burr clovers, lupines, vetch and Can- 
 ada peas are the most promising cover crops. In 
 Colorado and other irrigated sections where cover 
 crops are to be planted, it is preferable to cultivate 
 intensively the first part of the season and sow the 
 cover crop early so that you will get as much growth 
 as possible, and can be turned under in the fall, so 
 the roots, etc., will not interfere with irrigating the 
 following spring. 
 
 Fertilizers for the Orchard 
 
 There are ten elements needed for plant growth. 
 As a rule they are all present in the soil, but three 
 of them are often lacking in sufficient quantities, and 
 by fertilizing we mean supplying these three ele- 
 ments, namely, nitrogen, phosphate and potash. 
 Kitrogen can be added to the soil by means of cover 
 crops which take it indirectly from the air. It is also 
 present in dried blood, manure and practically all 
 organic matter. Cover crops and stable manure are 
 as a rule the more economical means of supplying 
 this to the orchard. 
 
 Phosphate can be supplied in bone phosphate — it 
 is also present to a limited extent in manure. Where 
 phosphate alone is needed, buy the ground rock phos- 
 phate which is the most economical form. It will 
 give you best results if mixed with manure and ap- 
 plied at the rate of 200 to 500 pounds of ground rock 
 phosphate to the acre. 
 
 Potash is present in wood ashes as is also phos- 
 phate and where ashes are available they should be 
 used. Potash is also bought from Germany. The 80 
 per cent grade is more economical than "Kainit," 
 which usually contains about 12 per cent potash. 
 
 The so-called complete fertilizers may be had on 
 the market. The per cent of fertilizing element which 
 they contain is usually designated as follows: -5 — S — 3; 
 the 5 refers to 5 per cent nitrogen, the 8 to 8 per 
 cent phosphate, and the 3 to 3 per cent potash. Their 
 value depends on the pounds of the actual element 
 which they contain. 
 
 Some Reasons Why Trees Do Not Bear 
 
 Many varieties of apple, pear, plum, 
 Pollenation ^^^■' ^^^ more or less self-sterile. A 
 
 variety that is self-sterile is one 
 whose pollen does not fertilize its own blossom. The 
 yellow pollen grains of the blossom are necessary in 
 order to make it set fruit. If the blossom of a self- 
 
TlllO STAItK (IIU'IIAUI) I'LAXTINC HOOK -'7 
 
 sterile variety were protected from wind and insects 
 by a paper bag so tliat no pollen from another vari- 
 ety could get it, it would fail to develop. While a 
 variety may be absolutely self-sterile, its pollen is 
 all right for fertilizing the blossoms of another va- 
 riety. Two such self-sterile varieties may be planted 
 together — uf dependent on their own pollen they 
 would not set any fruit, but by the interchanging of 
 pollen both produce full crops. 
 
 There are comparatively few varieties known to 
 be absolutely self-sterile, but there are a great many 
 which have a tendency towards self-sterility, and 
 others which are usually self-fertile. Both classes 
 vary with external conditions. For example, Kieffer 
 pear is self-fertile in the South, and self-sterile in the 
 North. It is better that fruits sliould be crossed, and 
 in some cases nature makes self-pollenation impossi- 
 ble by the ripening of the pollen before the ovary is 
 mature and ready to receive it. Cross pollenation 
 makes large and more uniform fruit. It has been 
 found by practical experience that some combina- 
 tions of pollen are especially good: 
 
 Plum: Satsuma with Abundance; 
 
 (;oe Golden Drop with Minor with DeSoto; 
 
 French Prune; Wild Goose with DeSoto; 
 
 Green Gage with Italian Kurbank with Red June; 
 Prune; Newman with Minor. 
 
 Pear: Kieffer with Garber. 
 
 There are doubtless a great many combinations 
 which are especially favorable. Generally speaking, 
 any variety which is prolific and the blossoms of 
 which are supplied with lots of pollen, makes a very 
 good pollenizer if it comes in bloom at the same 
 time as varieties which are weak in pollen. Most of 
 the benefit comes from the abundance and vigor of 
 the pollen which seldom has any direct effect upon 
 the quality of the fruit. 
 
 However, there are a number of exceptions. Such 
 varieties as Bartlett and Clapp will produce larger 
 and more uniform fruit when fertilized with the 
 pollen grains from the Kieffer pear than if fertilized 
 with some of their own pollen. 
 
 A tree which is of weakened vitality through lack 
 of cultivation has a tendency to become more or less 
 self-sterile, and if it grows still weaker the blossoms 
 may even tail to set fruit with fresh pollen from an- 
 other variety. This is very often the case, and the 
 soil should be constantly enriched by a system of 
 cover crops and manuring. On the other hand a tree 
 growing too vigorously may have blossoms, but fail 
 to set fruit, even though it may have a great many 
 blossoms. However, this is seldom the case, and when 
 it occurs it is in young orchards which are longer 
 than necessary coming into bearing. The growth may 
 be checked by allowing the orchard to remain in sod 
 
•2S Till-; STAllK ORCHARD TLANTIXG BOOK 
 
 for a year or so. Generally, the best method is to plow 
 ill the spring, cultivate the first half of the summer, 
 and then sow a cover crop, whicli prevents loss of 
 any plant food, also checks the growth, ripening the 
 trees so that they will stand severe winter weather. 
 
 The importance of such insects as bees cannot be 
 too strongly emphasized. In many regions there are 
 sufficient honey-bees and bumble-bees to produce 
 thorough cross poUenation. but in large orchards or 
 sections where there are many orchards, every 
 grower should keep one or more stands of bees. 
 
 Very little pollenation is due to the wind. Most of 
 it is carried by insects, and in order to secure thor- 
 ough pollenation, alternate varieties should be 
 planted every third or fourth row. If the orchard has 
 already been planted, a number of top grafts of other 
 varieties can be set in every third or fourth row. 
 
 Trees are sometimes supposed to be self-sterile 
 when the lack of fruitfulness is really due to some 
 other cause. Blossoms may appear perfectly normal 
 but on close examination it will be seen that the 
 vital parts have been injured by frosts; a drying 
 wind will sometimes damage them to such an extent 
 that proper fecundation is prevented. Where the 
 growth is too rapid trees often fail to form fruit 
 buds. "To make trees bear when tardy coming into 
 fruiting, in June when sap is in its highest flow, take 
 out strips of bark, one to two inches wide, pointed at 
 the ends, extending from the ground almost to 
 branches. Always leave intact around entire trunk 
 of tree, alternating strips of bark about the width of 
 the strips taken off. New bark will form astonish- 
 ingly quickly without injury to the tree, yet a check 
 will be given that will cause formation of bloom 
 buds. This plan is better than root-pruning or gird- 
 ling; the latter is dangerous." 
 
 Another method is summer pruning, when the 
 trees are in full leaf. Take out only the smaller 
 branches in this summer work. Do the heavy prun- 
 ing when trees are dormant. We have a 160-aera 
 orchard in the southwestern part of Missouri. One 
 40-acre block was pruned during June, July and 
 August, which was reported on as follows by the 
 foreman: 
 
 "Pruning. Trees pruned summer 1909 show at 
 least 20 per cent belter bloom than those not 
 pruned, and I believe 30 per cent better on Black 
 Ben and Senator." 
 
 This is particularly true of those pruned in June 
 and July. 
 
 Borers 
 
 This subject belongs to the Spray 
 White Lead "Book, but is mentioned here as bor- 
 for Borers p's in some localities cause a great 
 
 deal of trouble. 
 
THK STARK ORCHARD PLANTING BOOK 29 
 
 William Stark, 
 
 Louisiana, iMo. 
 Dear Sir: 
 
 111 my experience the use of white lead, as iliiectecl 
 in my former bulletin, is a very good preventive from in- 
 jury by borers, mice and rabbits. However, care must 
 be taken to see that the borers are removed, the wound 
 cleaned carefully and the paint applied certainly for two 
 inches below the soil and above the soil anywhere from 
 fifteen to eighteen inches, according Lo circumstances. It 
 must not be applied over buds that one wishes to have 
 push out and make growth, but it will not injure apples 
 or peaches; however, I do not like its effect on cherries. 
 On peach trees, also, the protection is not so effective as 
 on apple, because the rapid increase of the trunk breaks 
 the coating of paint. — Prof. Wm. B. Alwood. 
 
 Be very careful in applying paint. Use nothing 
 but pure White Lead and pure raw (not boiled) lin- 
 seed oil. Mix thoroughly at the rate of 2U gallons 
 of oil to 100 pounds of lead. Paint the trees in the 
 fall or spring, while they are dormant. Apply the 
 coat as thickly as possible, but do not let a great deal 
 run down on the roots. Again, do not use House 
 Paint, or paint with a drier in it. It will injure, po.s- 
 sibly kill, the trees. 
 
 Special Information 
 
 The contents of the preceding pages will, I be- 
 lieve, answer the greater majority of questions which 
 come up at planting time. However, there are often 
 special conditions in many tree-planters' undertak- 
 ings requiring special information. 
 
 If the reader has problems, in solving which a 
 need is felt of exact information, I shall be glad to 
 help. When writing, give as complete and detailed a 
 description of conditions as possible. No charge will 
 be made for this service unless the orchardist desires 
 that a special trip be made to his place for personal 
 !ns|)ection. 
 
 Address letters for information to 
 
 William H. Stark 
 
 Louisiana, Missouri 
 
 One copy del. to Cat. Div. 
 
 DEC 12 I9II 
 
 •Uo. 
 
LIBRftRY OF CONGRESS 
 
 000 917 181 2 
 
iI!h*^ of congress 
 
 0Q00Ti7iaig