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 Wendorfs 
 Practical 
 Cutting 
 Method 
 
 A NEW SYSTEM which enables one to take correct 
 ^___._.,_ measurements and draft patterns for 
 
 ladies' and men's garments. 
 
^- < 
 
 '^ ' -A^ 
 
 Copyrighted 1913 
 
 by 
 
 William Wendorf 
 
 CHICAGO 
 
 J. B. PORTER COMPANY 
 Printers and Engravers 
 
 CHICAGO 
 
 / J^ .C- -v. 
 
 ©C1,A331791 { -^" ^ / 1 1 
 
This improved system of tailoring is the invention of Mr. 
 WilHam Wendorf — an experienced and able cutter, designer 
 and practical tailor. It is the product of years of earnest work 
 and experiment. Its aim is practical. It has been tested at the 
 cutting table and bench and rightly used has never failed to give 
 entire satisfaction. 
 
 Pat. Oct. 22. 1912 
 
 This new improved system will conquer the most difficult 
 figure. It matters not how harsh or angular the lines of the cus- 
 tomer's figure, the patterns drafted from the measurements taken 
 by means of this instrument will be perfect. These patterns will 
 be individual. 
 
 This method has solved the problem of poor fitting garments. 
 Incorrect measurements are impossible if the very simple directions 
 outlined in this book are followed with care. 
 
 The United States government after a thorough investigation 
 of Mr. Wendorf's instrument issued him letters patent on it 
 October 22, 1912, protecting him in all the rights of his wonderful 
 invention. 
 
Chart I 
 
 H-J' 
 J-K 
 
 A-B 
 AC 
 A-D 
 
 E-F-G 
 
 O-P 
 
 C-M' 
 
 C-H 
 
 C-E 
 
 D-J 
 D-K 
 D-L 
 D-G 
 
 A-F 
 
 \ Sleeve 
 T\ " Length 
 
 A-L 
 
 A-K 
 
 A-J 
 
 A-M 
 
 Chart II 
 
 2'/4 63/4 
 
 8- 31/4 
 93/4 
 
 24 
 
 38 
 
 71/2-6 
 
 9 14 
 
 81/4 5 
 3 12 
 
 Q Sleeve 
 •^ Length 
 
 9 1/4 
 
 81/4-81/4 
 
 61/2 
 
Wendorf's practical cutting system is the simplest and most 
 reliable in the world. It does away with ill-fitting garments. It 
 reduces the number of fittings and thus saves valuable time. 
 Any tailor or dressmaker can use this system without prior in- 
 struction. The ability to take measurements accurately and 
 draft patterns correctly is what makes a tailor, and this is where 
 the Wendorf system in invaluable. 
 
 GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS 
 
 Two charts will be found on page 2. Chart I shows the alpha- 
 betical arrangement of the essential measurements as taken by 
 the instrument from Figures I and II on page 4. Chart II shows 
 the numerical arrangement for recording the measurements of a 
 normal breast of 36 inches, which is used for the ground foundation. 
 

 Fig. I 
 
 Ml 
 
 Jl. 
 
 Fig. II 
 
 Method of Measuring 
 
To take measurements place the instrument on the customer 
 as shown in Figures I and II on page 4. Be careful not to adjust 
 too tight nor too loose. Place point A of instrument (see Figure I. 
 page 4) in the armpit and fasten it with the little hook directly 
 under point A on the instrument. Place slide B back of the arm 
 and you have the measurement for the armscye. 
 
 Place slide C in the center of the back (Figure II) and you 
 get the blade measure. 
 
 Next place slide D in the center of the chest (Figure I) which 
 gives the breast measure. Be careful to see that the instrument 
 is perfectly horizontal on the customer. 
 
 Place a pin on shoulder point J (Figure I) and one on the top 
 of shoulder at M or where it is desired to place the shoulder seam 
 according to style or fashion used. Take tapeline attached to the 
 instrument and take measurements as shown on Figure I and II, 
 placing same in the appropriate squares as shown on Chart II, 
 page 2. 
 
POIIVT 
 
 
 F 
 
 Pat. Oct. 22, 1912 
 
 Cut illustrating how measurements are named in rotations 
 and operations of instrument in drafting patterns. 
 
H to J' and J to K Neck gore 
 
 A to B ' Armscye 
 
 A to C Blade measure 
 
 A to D Breast measure 
 
 E to F and G Waist measure 
 
 C to M' Back over shoulder measure 
 
 C to H Back height 
 
 C to E Back waist length 
 
 D to J Front balance 
 
 D to K Front height 
 
 D to L Bust depth 
 
 D to G Front waist length 
 
 A to F Under arm seam length 
 
 A to L Bust measure 
 
 A to K Neck point 
 
 A to J Shoulder point 
 
 A to M Front over shoulder measure 
 
The Ground Foundation 
 
MEASUREMENTS 
 
 21/4-63/4 
 
 8-31/4 
 93/4 
 
 24 
 
 38 
 
 71/2-6 
 
 9—14 
 
 8I/4-5 
 3—12 
 
 Q Sleeve 
 '^ Length 
 
 91/4 
 
 8I/4-8I/4 
 61/2 
 
 Detailed Instructions for Ground 
 Foundation 
 
 Mark a cross on drafting paper and call it A. Place point A 
 of the instrument over point A on drafting paper. Proceed to 
 mark measurements as they have been taken with the instrument. 
 
 For example: 
 
 A to B is 334 inches Armscye 
 
 A to C is 93^ inches Blade Measure 
 
 Now square down from point C and square up from point B. 
 Put tapeline on button C of the instrument and mark points 
 as follows: 
 
 C to M' is 73/2 inches Back Over-Shoulder Measure 
 
 C to H is 6 inches Back Height 
 
 C to E is 9 inches Back Waist Length 
 
 E to O is 5 inches Hip Depth 
 
 Sweep points H and M' pivoting at C. Put tapeline on button 
 A and mark following points: 
 
 A to F is 9 inches Under-Arm Seam Length 
 
 F to S is 5 inches Hip Depth 
 
Now move point A of the instrument one inch forward to allow 
 
 for looseness of garment, canvas and padding. 
 
 A to D is 8 inches Breast Measure 
 
 Now put tapeline on button D on instrument and mark these 
 points: 
 
 D to J is 8' 4 inches Neck Balance Point 
 
 D to K is 5 inches Front Height 
 
 D to L is 3 inches Bust Depth 
 
 D to G is 1 2 inches Front Waist Length 
 
 G to P is 5 inches Front-Hip Depth 
 
 Sweep points K and J pivoting at D. 
 
 Sweep points L, G and P pivoting at K. 
 
 Put tapeline on button A on instrument and mark the follow- 
 ing points: 
 
 A to L is 9I4 inches Bust Measure 
 
 A to K is 8}i inches Neck Point 
 
 A to J is 8^4 inches Shoulder Point 
 
 A to M is 6^ '2 inches Front Over-Shoulder Measure 
 
 10 
 
Now sweep points L, K, J and M, pivoting at A. 
 
 Draw lines from E to F and O to S. 
 
 From O to Y is one inch. 
 
 Draw a line from Y through C to H. 
 
 Square out from H. 
 
 H to V is 2 1 4 inches Back Neck Size 
 
 V to J' is I') inch. 
 
 Shape back part from H to J' and from J' through M' striking 
 the sweep line at point M' , which is % the distance from J' be- 
 tween point J' and line B. Extend '^4 of an inch over line B for 
 the back-shoulder seam length to point I . 
 
 Shape back-armscye as shown on diagram dropping 32 inch 
 under the cross line at point A. 
 
 Draw a straight line from K through L, which gives points 
 G and P. 
 
 The front-shoulder seam must be just as long as the back- 
 
shoulder seam less ^4 inch. The one inch allowed from A to A 
 must be taken out on shoulder between points M and 3. To do 
 so measure the distance on the back part between J' and M' ; 
 place this amount on front shoulder from point J, striking sweep 
 line at point M. The distance on sweep line L to U is one-half of 
 the distance from A to D. 
 
 Now make a sweep from M to 2, pivoting at U. From M to 3 
 is one inch. Mark lines from U to 3 and U to M. Measure the 
 balance from M' to I of the back and place this amount on 
 sweep line from 3 to 2 less I4 inch. 
 
 Shape the front-neck from J to K. Shape front-shoulder from 
 J to M and 3 to 2 and make front-armscye as indicated. Draw 
 lines from F to G and S to P. 
 
 The waist measure is 24 inches for this normal ground founda- 
 tion, so give I4 of the waist measure from F to Q and '4 from F 
 to R. The balance from Q to E and R to G is the front and back 
 waist surplus and must be taken out of all close-fitting garments 
 by darts, which I will explain further on special request. 
 
 WILLIAM WENDORF. 
 
 12 
 
iH ^ 5^83 
 
 LIBRftRY OF CONGRESS 
 
 013 964 950 3 • 
 
^ LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 
 
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