..... ■;■".'. ■ ■■ , : ■■'■.■ >:■ : ■ ■■- ..-..■■ ■: . :■■■: ..-■■.■ ■ ■ ■ '. ■:::■ V ■;■■ : ■'. ■ :V/V .:■ : : :;• ■ ■.■.-■■.■■■ : • v.\ ■-. ■: -.:■.■ . iiiiiiisiiiii , : ffi^SSS'ps'^^lfiS^j^lp ' v islilllllll ■Hi Mill ■'■'- ,■:■ :;•>■ ■w : ilillpiiliifti ^ xx \s ^ wz**¥m Class . Book._3L±_ :ghtN?.J5^L COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. THE American ga rment Cutter A Complete, Practical, Up-to-date Treatise on the Cutting of Albert's (garments According to the Latest and Most Approved Method Published by American Fashion Company New York, London, Paris, Berlin THE AMERICA \ GA R M E X T CI ' T T E R build of a man, and to be reproduced as nearly perfect as is possible to human ingenuity is what has been sought in this work. The author has so far suc- ceeded that of the many who have studied, either by direct instruction or by the aid of this publication, not one has failed to enjoy the fullest confidence of their clientage. Particularly is this system of value where cutting has to be done without " try-on " and at no time can a garment be spoiled. The perfect points being the fundamental object of this method. PREFACE In placing this work before the Cutting Fraternity, we feel confident that we have p.laced before them something that is useful and practical. Unlike any other work of its kind, its construction is simple and easy to understand. It has been our aim to eliminate all discussion of an ana- tomical nature, for we do not pretend to teach anatomy, nor do we try to convince the student of something we are not convinced of ourselves. We do claim that our work is absolutely practical, and correct, its measures are simple, and applied on the pattern exactly as taken and they cover any and all points that have heretofore confused the cutter. There will be no need for the cutter to mark on the book " R. B." for round back or "O. E." for over erect or any other sign by which to know the shape of his customer, for his measurements will show all such points. We feel certain that any cutter following the instructions of the American Garment Cutter will be satisfied with the results obtained. THE AUTHOR. THE AMERICAN GARMENT C U TTER THE MEASURING OF THE HUMAN BODY The fact that in order to perfectly fit the human body, it requires perfect measure- ments, cannot be too often urged upon the cutter, and not only that, but it requires much tact on the part of the cutter to get his customer to forget that he is being measured. A fact, well known among cutters is, that ninety-nine out of one hundred men will pose, uncon- sciously perhaps, while being measured, ft is common to see a man standing erect, with shoulders thrown back and chest expanded, and if you were to ask him to stand naturally, he would be indignant and answer, "Why, of course this is my natural position," but if after the garment is completed he stoops forward, his chest sunken in, his back rounded, it will then be necessary for the cutter to either make a big alteration or a new garment ; so it will readily be seen that the cutter who can make his customer forget that he is being measured, has the best chance of success. THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER HOW TO MEASURE Before measuring it is well to see that the sides of the Vest are not too loose; if neces- sary, pin up both sides of the Vest, but see that the center seam of the back is in the right place. Use the ordinary division square. Place square under the arm with the long end down and parallel with the body. (See Fig. i.) The short end to be close, but not tight, under the arm; make a chalk mark on top of it in front, and, still holding the square in the same position, make a mark on the side of the hack, and remove. THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER Figure i 10 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER HOW TO MEASURE— Continued Now place the short end of the square under the arm with the long end upward (see Fig. 2), still keeping the inner edge of it close, but not tight, at the front scye; mark at the outer edge of it across the first line, so that it leaves a cross mark at the front scye (see Fig. 3). Now place the square under the other arm and mark the same way at front and side of the back. THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER ll Figure 2 12 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER HOW TO MEASURE— Continued The cross mark shown on the front in Figure 3 shows where the line of scye depth and cle line cross. THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 13 Figure 3 II THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER HOW TO MEASURE— Continued Place the long end of the square across both marks on the back and mark across the center seam (see Fig. 4); this gives the scye depth. Now find the socket bone, or from above the collar button at the back, measure to the scye depth, divide in half and mark across the center seam. To get the waist length, put the tape line around the waist just above the hip bone, and mark across center seam of back, measure 6 inches down for the hip. It is easily understood that no matter where the hip may he. as long as you go down the same distance for the draft, as the measure, you must be right. We will now proceed to measure. First from the socket hone to the scye depth; on to the waist line; on to the full length. Now place the tape line to the back collar button Figure -| and measure to cross line on front ( Fig. 3) for strap measure; then from line half way between socket hone and scye depth, to the same cross line on front for over-shoulder measure. Then from front cross line (Fig. 3) under arm and over the blade hone to the center seam of hack for blade measure. Then breast, not tight; waist, and hip. In taking the breast measure he sure that your tape string is over the most prominent part of the blade bone. THE VEST If measured for a suit all that is needed is the opening and lull length measure. THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 15 Figure 4 1G THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER HOW TO MEASURE— Continued TROUSERS Measure the outside seam from the hip bone to the top of heel. For the inseam have the trousers well drawn up and measure from the crotch to the top of heel, then the waist, hip, seat, thigh, knee and bottom. THE SQUARE The square used for these diagrams is a plain division square, understood by most cut- ters, but for the benefit of those who do not understand it, we herewith give an explanation of the divisions of same. The long end of the square is divided into \, f , {, T V> it the short end is divided into i> i> »• tV and : .\, -. Should you try to find ■£ of any size, say 36, 40 or 48, look at the short end of the square marked £, and there you will find the number you want, 18 for 36, 20 for 40, or 24 for 48. Should you want ^ of any size, look at the same short end of square marked ^, or if you want J, '. or T V look at the long end for the mark }, | or T V and you will find it. In drawing for square lines be sure that you hold your square on the one line firmly, while drawing the right angle, for one line off will spoil the whole draft. THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 17 >' Figure 5 18 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER LESSON I. SINGLE BREASTED SACK COAT We will now begin with our first lesson, the ground work. This is tn he a single breasted sack coat. The measures are as follows Scye depth, ()\ inches Blade, 13 inches Natural waist. 17 inches Breast. 38 inches Full length. 30 inches Waist. 34 inches Strap, uj : inches Seat. 39 inches ( >ver shi adder, 14J, inches Square lines A — N and A — F. \ in I! is scye depth, <;! inches; 11 to C is 7 inch; this f inch allowance is for the three seams that we lose — | inch at the center seam of the hack, and [ inch each at the hack and front shoulders. A to I > is waist length, 17 inches. I) to E is 6 inches always, same as measure. F is full length plus J inch. Square out from I!. C, D, E and F. < i is half way between A and B At D go in I inch in all sack coats except on box or straight hack coats I )raw a line from the I inch line, point up to G and dow n to F. From the line just drawn at I', to H is i of full breast — 1<) inches. II t<> I is 3^ inches; square down from 1. J is half way between the inner line at Hand II. J to K is 3JI inches always. Square down from K. Now apply the blade measure from the line inside of I! to wherever it comes; in this case the blade measure is 13 inches and comes even with the lower line, but let it be under- stood that the blade line is independent of the line squared down from 1\ . and may be ] inch. ', inch, or 1 inch in or out of that line, according to measure. (Sec diagrams X and 9.) Square up from where the blade line conies, and make no allowance for seams, as in placing the square in front of the arm scye you have already made allowance, the width of the square being 1 j inches, which makes just five seams. K to I. is .'. 1 he distance from A to ]). I he scye depth in this case being ol inches, -make the distance from l\ to I. hj on Oth division ■ >i the square. Square up from L. THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 19 (3) I H $ @ # ^ # #A (5E)g -!!)c ^D m 13 to I. From Z to 2 is I waist, 17 on half division of the square. From 2 to 3 is 1 J inches. From 3 back to 4 is 3^ niches. Shape front through 1 and 3 down. Xote that in placing point R [ breast from the lower line always, you get the proper slope oi the shoulder. For if the scye depth is short, it will give a square and narrow shoul- der, and if long, a sloping wide shoulder. However, in case of a sloping shouldered man wanting his shoulders padded heavily, you may make the distance from R to S if or 2 inches, according to the amount of padding wanted. THE AMERICAN G ARM EXT CUTTER 21 Diagram 2 22 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER LESSON I. -Continued Measure back from 9 '.o E. apply to 8 and back to 10, seat measure, plus £ inch. Measure back 7 to D, apply to 4 and back to 6, waist measure, plus 1 inch; draw a line from 6 to 10. Between front and back at Q take out £ inch, the amount of cloth it would take for seams if you were to cut an underarm fish. Shape the side of the front. Sweep from 12 to 15, pivoting at N. Straighten out the bottom of forepart. The height of the pocket is 2/3 of the sleeve length, measured on the inseam. For in- stance, if the sleeve length be 18 inches, look for 18 at the long end of the square, marked "2 Thirds"; 12 inches from the armscye, and mark the pocket parallel with the bottom of the front ; make line Z — K the center of it, and mark 1/6 of the breast each side of it. For a one or a four button sack, mark the last button \\ inches above the pocket. For a three button sack mark the last button opposite to the ticket pocket or t,\ inches above the side pockets. Diagram 3 24 / // E . t M E R I C A N G A K M E X T CUTTER LESSON I. -Continued Cut the back out, and place pi unt V on point X, measure over shoulder from G through X In K, swing the hack until you get the proper measurement with J inch allowance, mark at X; sweep from point X to Y, pivoting at M. Reshape shoulder and finish. THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 25 Diagram 4 How to Get the Over-Shoulder Measure. 2fi THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER ACTUAL MEASUREMENTS WILL SHOW FIGURE A question often asked by the student is, "How are we to know a stooping from an erect figure?" The answer is, "The measurements will show;" on diagram 5 is a draft of a normal fig- ure; that is, the distance from A to B is the same as L to N, which shows that the back and front are of the same height and normal. THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 27 ^ -#A ifr (a @ <^ «»JS ®L -!t)c ■^D - (jj)G $>* Diagram 9 36 THE AMERICAN G ARM EN T CUT T E R THREE BUTTON SACK The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: Depth of scye, g inches Over shoulder, 13! inches Waist length. 17 inches Blade, i-'i inches Seat, 23 inches Breast. 36 inches Full length, 30 inches Waist, 32 inches Strap, 12 inches Seal. 37 inches Square lines A — U and A — F. A to B is 9 inches; B to C is f inch; A to D is 17 inches; A to E is 23 inches; A to F is 30 inches. Square out from B, C, D, E and F. G is half way between A and B. At D go in \ inch. Draw a line from G to D and square down. From line just made at B to H is half of full breast — 18 inches. H to I is 3^ inches. Square down from 1. J is half way between B and H. J to K is 3.} inches. Square down from K. Apply blade measure from B to K — 12^ inches. Square up from K. K to L is \ the distance from A to B. Square up from L. P is half way between B and K, P to O is i{ inches. Square up from O. Q to R is 1 breast. K to S 1- 1 \ inches, S to T is \ inch, A to U is '\ inch more than i, breast. Square up from I'. I" to V is | inch. Draw a line from U to T. Shape the back Measure back A to V, apply to K and up to N, strap measure plus -.{ inch — 12} inches. Draw a line from X to G. Square forward from X. X to 13 is ti inches more than one-sixth breast. Draw a line from 13 to 1. X to is T l , breast. M is half way between K and L. Square forward from O by K. Sweep from X to Y. pivoting at M. X to Y is ] inch less than V to T. Shape gorge, shoulder and armscye, Z to 5 is \ waist. 5 to 3 is 1 ] inches, 3 to 2 is 3] inches. Measure back 7 to D and 2 to 0, waist measure, plus 1 inch — 17 inches. Measure 9 to E and S to 10, scat measure plus } inch — 19 inches. Shape the side of the front, taking out I inch between front and back at O. Sweep from 12 to 15, pivoting at X. Finish front as represented. Cut out the back. Place point V on point X. < let o\ er shoulder measure from G through X to K plus } inch — 13! inches. THE COLLAR Draw a line from lapel crease through X to 18. N to [8 is the same as A to V Square down from [8. 18 to t<) is t} inches. 18 to 17 is i| inches. Shape collar as represented. THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 37 Three Button Sack 38 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER Blade, 13 inches Breast, 38 inches Waist, 34 inches Seat, 39 inches STRAIGHT FRONT SACK— STRAIGHT BACK The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: Scye depth, g\ inches Natural waist, 17 inches Full length, 30 inches Strap, I2f inches Over shoulder, 14} inches Square lines A — U and A — F. A to B is gi inches; B to C is f inch; A to D is 17 inches; D to E is 6 inches; A to F is 30 inches. Square out from B, C. D, E and F. G is half way between A and B. B to H is half oi full breast, 19 inches; H to I is 3^ inches. J is half way between 1! and 11. J to K is 3.} inches. Square down from I and K. Apply the blade measure from B to K. 13 inches, and square up. K to L is ^ the distance from A to B, in this case 19 on the 6th division. Square up from L. P is half way between B and Iv, P to Q is 1] inches. Square up from Q. From O to R is I breast, R to S is 1 i inches. Square out from S. S to T is | inch. A to U is ^ inch more than £ breast. Square up from U. F to V is J; of an inch. Draw a line from U to T. Shape the back. Measure distance A to V, apply to K and up to X, strap measure plus \ inch, 13 inches. Draw a line from N to G. Square forward from X. X to 8 is -J breast measure plus I^ inches. Draw a line from 8 to I. X to 19 is | breast measure. i\I is half way between K and L. Square out from 19 by M. W to X is half waist, X to Y is 1 j inches, V back to X is 3^- inches. Shape front edge From front edge to 10 is 3-i inches. Measure back 4 to F, apply to 10 and back to 1, seat measure plus 1 inch. 1 to 3 is 1 :'| inches. Square up from 3 to establish 13. Draw a line from 13 through 1 to 11. Between back and front at Q take out 1 inch. Shape side of front. Sweep from 9 to 20, pivoting at M. N to 20 is j inch less than V to T. Shape gorge, shoulder anil armscye. Sweep from 1 1 to 12, pivoting at X. Cut out back and place point V on point X. Measure over shoulder from <■ through 9 to K, 14J, plus \ inch — 14^ inches. Mark at 9, where the back laps over the front shoulder and sweep from there to 20, pivoting at M. THE AMERICAN G ARM E X T CUTTER :vj Straight Front Sack — Straight Back 40 THE AM /• R I C A N G A R .1 1 E N T CUTT E R FOUR BUTTON MILITARY SACK With or without Exaggerated Shoulders. The dotted lines show exaggeration The measurements are the same as on previous draft. Square lines A — F and A — U. A to B i- ' i.', inches; 1! to C is ;,' inch; A to I > is \~ inches; A to E is 23 inches; A to F is 30 inches. Square out from B, C, D, E and 1*". ( i is hall way between A and B. At D go in \ inch, square down and draw a line up to G. From line inside of B to II is half of full breast, 19 inches. 11 to 1 is 3.' inches. J is half way between B and 11. J to K is 3! inches. Square clown from I and K. Apply the blade measure from B to K, 13 inches. Square up from K. K to I. is \ the distance from A to B, [9011 6th division. Square up from L. P is half way between B and K . P to Q is 1 j inches. Square up from Q. Q to l\ is | breast, K to S is 1 .', inches. Square out from S. S to T is \ inch. From I' to back line 7 is f inch. Square down to II. From A to U is \ inch more than \ breast. Square up from I". From LJ to V is I inch. Draw a line from U to I ; shape the back. Measure distance A to Y; apply to K and lip to X, --trap measure [2§ plus j inch — \ i\ inches. Draw a line from X to G. Square forward from X. X to 1 \ is \ breast. 14 to 13 is ii inches. Draw a line from 13 to I. M is half way between I\ and L. Sweep from X to V, pivoting at M. X to Y is j inch less than V to T. N to O is \ breast. Square forward from I > by M. Shape gorge, shoulder and armscye. Z to 2 is half waist, 2 to 3 is 1 \ inches, 3 back to 4 is 3] inches. Shape front edge. 8 is 3| inches back from the edge. Measure back 9 to E; apply to S and back t in! inches; add J, inch — 20 inches. 10 to 9 is i| inches, square up from 9 to get 6, draw a line from 6 through 10 to 1 _'. Shape the side of forepart and take out \ inch under arm fish. Sweep from [2 to 15, pivoting at X. Cut out the back and apply point V to X; swing until you gel shoulder measure, plus | inch. For broad shoulders and narrow collar, proceed as follows: After the back is cut, add j or I inch at A- - V, and the same at X. Add | or g inch at T, raising the shoulder for padding and increasing the back as per broken lines. Increase the shoulder at Y as much as is necessary. Diagram on page 43 shows a ven good wa\ to cut a concave shoulder. THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 41 Four Button Military Sack With or without exaggerated shoulder. The dotted lines are exaggi 42 TIIH AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTE. HOW TO CUT A CONCAVE SHOULDER. The trouble that cutters usually experience in trying to yet concave shoulders is that they fail to make provision for the stretching of it, and thus lose the original position of the shoulder point. A good test of this is: take the fronts of an) ordinary coat and stretch the hollow of the gorge, the shoulder and the armscye, then lay the original pattern upon it and see the result. The following diagram shows a very g 1 way to yet a concave shoulder: After the pattern has been cut according to measurements, double your front over, say ! inch, as from E to F, the result will he to bring the shoulder point over as from solid line A to broken line B, and from solid line C to broken line I ). Stretch the hollow of the gi irge, the shoulder and armscye as marked on diagram. THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER |:i "How to cut a Concave Shoulder" 44 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER THREE BUTTON DOUBLE BREASTED SACK The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: Scye depth, o'. inches Over shoulder, 14}- inches Waist length, 17 inches Blade. 13 inches Seat, 23 inches Breast, 38 inches Full length, 30 inches Waist, 34 inches Strap, 1 2.} inches Seat, 39 inches Square lines A — U and A — F. A to B is g\ inches; B to C is f inch; A to D is 17 inches; A to E is 23 inches; A to F is 30 inches. Square out from B, C, D, E and F; < \ is half way between A and I'.. \t I ) go in .', inch, draw line up to G and down to F. From line inside of B to 11 is I full breast. 11 to I is 2^ inches. 1 to J is 3} inches. Square down from 1 and J. K is halfway between B and II. K to L is 35 inches. Square down from L. Apply blade measure from 11 to L. 13 inches. Square up from L. L to I\I is .'. the distance from A to B. Square up from M. P is half way between II and L. P to Q is 1 \ inches. Square up from Q. to R is \ 1 re.ist. I\ to S is \\ inches, S to T is l { inch. P to back line is 1 inch. Square down for back. A to U is \ breast measure plus | inch. LJ to V is | inch. Draw a line from V to T. Shape back. Measure distance A to \'. apply to L and X for strap measure plus J inch — [2^ inches 1 )raw a line from N to (1 to get W. Sweep from W to X. pivoting at ( >. X to X is | inch less than V to T. X to 14 is \ breast measure. Square forward from 14 by 0. Shape gorge, shoulder and armscye. Y to Z is half waist measure, Z to 2 is 3.I inches, 2 back to 3 is 5! inches. Measure distance 4 to D, and 3 to 1, waist measure plus 1 inch. Measure distance 6 to E and 5 to 7, seat measure plus \ inch. Square out from X. X to 12 is \ inch more than ,', breast measure. u to 11 is 3] inches; draw a line from 12 to I and from [i to J. Shape front. Sweep from 8 to 9, pivoting at X. extend line 1 — Z up and take out V. < ut out back and place point V on point X. Gel over shoulder measure from G through W to L, 14', plus \ inch, 14.I inches. Sweep to X and reshape shoulder. THE A M E R I C A \ : G A R M EN T CUTTE R 45 Three Button Double-Breasted Sack 4(i T II E A M ERIC AN G A R M F, N T C U T T E R Strap, 13 inches ( Iver shoulder, '5 inches Blade, 134 inches Breast, 40 inches inches FOUR BUTTON SACK For Stout Figure The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follow: Scye depth, g\ inches Waist length, 17 inches Seat. 23 inches Full length. 30 inches Waist, 40 Square lines A — U and A — F. A tn B is g\ inches; 1! to C is | inch; A to D is 17 inches; A to E is 23 inches; A to F is 30 inches. Square out from B, C, D, E and F. G is half way between A and B. At D go in I inch, square down to F and draw a line up to G. From the line just made inside of B to H is half of full breast. 20 niches. 11 to I is 3^ niches. J is half way between B and H, J to K is 3!- inches. Square down from 1 and K. Apply blade measure from the line inside of B to K 13A inches. From K to I. is ' : the distance from A to B, in this case nj on the 6tb division. Square up from L. P is half way between II and I\. P to Q is ij inches. Square up from Q. Square down for hack. From 1 to R is | breast, R to S is 1 ! inches. Square out from S. S to T is ■'■ inch. A to U is 5 inch more than -J breast. Square up from U, U to V is | inch. Draw a line from U to T. Shape back. Measure distance A t" V, apply to K ami up to X. strap measure, 13 plus ] inch — 13J inches. " Draw a line from .\ T to G. Square forward from N. X to 20 is ,', breast. 26 to 25 is 1 }, inches. Draw a line from 25 to I. M is half way between K and L; N to O is £ breast. Square out from O by M. Sweep from X to Y, pivoting at M. X to Y is [ inch less than V to T. Shape gorge, shoulder and armscye. '/. to 2 is },- waist, j t,i 3 is 1 ! inches; 3 back to 4 is 3I inches. Square down from 3. Measure back from 7 to line inside of D. apply to 4 and back to 6, waist measure plus i ; nch; square down from 6 to get 0; to 10 isi I inches: draw a line from 6 through 10 to 12. Shane the side of front. Sweep from 1? forward, pivoting at N. Shape front edtje and bottom. From K to 16 is I the sleeve length. ' Measure distance from 16 to bottom of forepart; mark the same distance from bottom of forenart to 18 and to 17; draw a line from 17 to iN. 16 to 17 "and [6 to 18 are ,', breast each; (be underarm cut is from half «-av between Q ami K to half wav between [6 and 18: cut open the under arm seam. Cut the pocket to 1 7- Take out a one inch V from 17 to bot- tom of forepart a- marked. (Sec Diagram Page 49.) THE O )1.E.\R Draw a line from 24 through X to 20; X to 20 is the same as A to V Square down from 20. 20 to 21 is 1 J inches. 2n to 22 is 2 inches. The width of collar in front at 23 is \ -'■ inches. Shape as represented. Cut out back ami place point V on point X ; get over shoulder measure from G through X to K, 15 inches plus \ inch, 15} inches. THE AM E R I C A N G A R .1 / E X T C r T T E R 3()0 Four Button Sack for Stout Figure 48 T II E A M E R I C A N G A R M E X T C UTTER FOUR BUTTON SACK For Corpulent Figure The measurements by which this draft is produced arc as follows: Scye depth, 9} inches Over shoulder, 15^ inches Waist length, 17^ inches Blade, 13! inches Full length, 31 inches Breast, 40 inches Strap, 13^ inches Waist, 42 inches Square lines A — F and A — V. A to B is 9^ inches; B to C is f inch; A to D is 17-J inches; A to E is 2$i inches; A to F is 31 inches. Square out from P., C, D, F and F. G is half way between A and B. D to inner line is \ inch. Square down from inner line and draw line up to G. From the line just made at 11 to 1 1 is half of full breast. K is half way between 1'. and H. K to 9 is 3j inches. Square up and down from o. O is half way between B and 9. O to P is 1^ inches. Square up from P. P to O is J f breast; Q to R is 1 J incites. Square out from R. R to S is 5 inch. \ to V is •'} inch more than J breast. Square up front V. V to U is § inch. Draw a line from V to S and shape back For every inch that the waist is larger than the breast advance ] inch from 9 to L; in this case, where the breast measure is 40 and the waist 42 inches advance the blade i inch from to L. Square up and down from F. I . to M is .'. the distance from A to P.. Square up from M. H to J is the same as 9 to L — I inch, J to T is 3^ inches. Measure distance A to U, apply to L and up to N, T3I inches plus .{■ inch — 134 inches. Draw a line from N to G. N to 8 is ,', breast, plus \ \ inches. Draw a line from 8 to I. N to 19 is J breast measure. 17 is half way between Land M. Square forward from 19 by 17. \V to X is 1 waist. X to Y is 1 ] inches, Y hack to 7. is 3} inches. Square down from Y. Measure back 2 to D and Z to 3, | waist measure plus \ inch. Square down from 3 to 4. From 4 to 1 is i^ inches. Draw a line from 3 through 1 to 11. Shape the side of front. Sweep from 11 to [2 pivoting at N. Sweep from 10 to 20, pivoting at 17. Shape front, gorge, shoulder and armscye. From 1. to [5 is -, of sleeve length. Measure distance from 15 to bottom of front. Mark same distance from bottom to 13 and 14. Draw a line from 13 to 14. From 15 to 14 and 13 are I, breast measure each. 23 is half way between P and 9. Between 23 and jj take out the \ inch that has been added from < ( to 1., cut the pocket to 14 and take out 1 inch V to botti mi of front. Cut out the back and place point U on point X Get over shoulder measure with J inch allowance from G through [6 to L. Sweep I Finish as represented, , iage. THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTE Four Button Sack for Corpulent Figure 50 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER After the front is cut out and the V taken out as from 17 to the bottom of front, reshape the bottom as shown on Diagram 10, following: — THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 61 Diagram io. 52 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER THREE BUTTON CUTAWAY FROCK. The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: Scye depth, 9 inches Over shoulder, 13^ inches Natural waist, i6| inches Blade, 12^ inches Fashionable waist, 18^ inches Breast, 36 inches Full leng-th, 36 inches Waist, 32 inches Strap, 12 inches Seat, 37 inches Square lines A — E and A — U. A to B is 9 inches: B to C is f inch; A to D is 16^ inches; A to E is i8i inches; A to F is 36 inches. Square out from B. C, D, E and F. G is half way between A and B. B to H is half of full breast, 18 inches. H to I is 2-J inches, I to J is 1 inch. K is half way between B and H, 9 inches. Kto L is 3J inches. Square down from I and L. Apply the blade measure from B to L, 12 J inches. L to M is }, the distance from A to B, 18 on 6th division. Square up from L and M. O is half way between B and L. O to P is 1^ inches. Square up from P; P to O is ] breast, O to R is i-J inches; Q to T the same. Square out from R. R to S is J inch. A to U is f inch more than | breast. Square up from U, U to V is f inch. Draw a line from U to S. E to 1 is I inch more than | breast. F to 2T is the same as E to 1. Shape back. Measure back A to V, apply to L and up to N. strap measure 12 plus 1 , inch. 12} inches. Draw a line from N to G. Square forward from N. N to T4 is £ breast. T4 to 13 is ii inches. Draw a line from 13 to J. Sweep from 18 to 20, pivoting at 17. N to 20 is £ inch less than V to S. N to 12 is £ breast measure. Square forward from 12 by 17. Shape gorge, shoulder and armscve. From 2 to 3 is i^ inches in this case. The waist suppression is as follows: Where the waist measures the same as the breast, or more, take out 1} inches between 2 and 3, never less; and for every inch the waist is smaller than the breast take out £ inch in addition to \\ inches: in this case, where the waist is 4 inches smaller than the breast, 4 eighths and 1^ make ij inches. From 3 to n is { waist measure. From W to X is \ waist measure. X to Y is 1} inches. Y back to Z is 3^ inches. Measure waist 2 to D and Z to 3, and take out balance between 6 and 7, in this case \ inch, or ^ inch for everv inch the waist is smaller than the breast. However, when the waist is as large as the breast and there is nothing left to take out between 6 and 7. take I inch out, and omit taking a fish out at the waist, and three inches from Y to Z is enoueh for a stout person. Draw a line from K to 6 and K to 7. and shape front and side body. Sweep from 1 to a. pivoting at T. Sweep from 4 to 8, pivoting at a point 1 inch back from N. Draw a line from 8 to waist line at 7. Draw a line from waist line to 4. THE SKIRT Square down from 3 to o. 3 to <» is o inches. to 10 is r| inches. Draw a line from A through Torn it. 4 to t t is J inch more than 1 tn ji. 8 to 15 is the same as 4 to it. Draw a line from i c; to tt. Shape top of skirt dropping- it 1 inch at 8. round the skirt § inch over to. Cut out the back and place point V on point N; get over shoulder measure from G through 18 to L, sweep to 20 and reshape shoulder. THE COLLAR Draw a line from t inch above J through N to 24. X to 24 is the same as A to V. Square down from 24. 24 to 25 i- 1 J inches. 24 to 23 is 1 '\ inches. Shape collar. THE A M ERIC AN G A R M E N T C UTTER 53 Three Button Cutaway Frock 54 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER Over s houlder, 13* inches Blade, 124 inches Breast. 36 inches Waist, 32 inches Seat, 37 inches ONE BUTTON CUTAWAY FROCK The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: Scye depth, 9 inches Natural Waist, \6\ inches Fashionable waist, i8| inches Full length, 36 inches Strap, 12 inches Square lines A — E and A — U. A to B is 9 inches; B to C is $ inch; A to D is ibi inches; A to E is i8| inches; A to F is 36 inches. Square out from B, C, D, E and F. G is half way between A and B. B to H is half of full breast, 18 inches. H to I is 2-} inches. I to J is 1 inch K is half way between B and H, 9 inches. K to L is 3^ inches. Square down from I and L. Apply the blade measure from B to L, 12^ inches. L to M is ^ the distance from A to B, 18 on 6th division. Square up from L and M. O is half way between B and I.. O to P is 1] inches; square up from P. P to Q is \ breast. O to R is \\ inches. O to T the same. Square out from R; R to S is f inch. A to U is \ inch more than \ breast measure. Square up from U; U to V is \ inch. Draw a line from U to S. E to 1 is ] inch more than \ breast. F to 21 is the same as E to t. Shape back. Measure back A to V, apply to L and up to N, strap measure 12 plus } inch. 12] inches. Draw a line from N to G. Square forward from X. X t<> 14 is , 1 , breast. 14 to 13 is i-i inches. Draw a line from 13 to J. Sweep from 18 to 20. pivoting at 17. N to 20 is -] inch less than V to S. N to 12 is £ breast. Square forward from 12 by 17. Shape gorge, shoulder, and armscve. From 2 to 3 is if}- inches. From 3 to 6 is \ waist. From W to X is \ waist. X to Y is 1 j- inches. Y back to Z is 3! inches. Measure waist, 2 to D and Z to 3 and take out balance between 6 and 7. in this case \ inch, or -J inch for every inch the waist is smaller than the breast. Draw a line from K to (S and K to 7, and shape front and side body. Sweep from 1 to 4, pivoting at T. Sweep from 4 to 8, pivoting at 1 inch back from N. Draw a line from 8 to fashionable waist line. Draw a line from waist line to 4. Shape the side body reducing it \ inch at T and \ inch at blade line. THE SKIRT Square down from 3 to 9. 3 to 9 is 9 inches. 9 to 10 is \\ inches. Draw a line from 4 through 10 to 11. 4 to 1 1 is \ inch more than 1 to 21. 8 to 15 is the same as 4 to 11. Draw a line from 15 to 11. Shape top of skirt dropping it \ inch at 8, and rounding it \ inch over 10. Cut out the back and place point V on point N. Measure over shoulder from G through 18 to L, adding \ inch and reshape shoulder. THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 55 One Button Cutaway Frock 56 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER ENGLISH WALKING COAT The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: Scye depth, 10 inches Over shoulder, 14! inches Natural waist, 17 inches Blade, 13^ inches Fashionable waist, 19 inches Breast, 40 inches Full length, 38 inches Waist, 36 inches Strap, 13} inches Seat, 41 inches Square lines A — E and A — U. A to B is 10 inches; B to C is f inch; A to D is 17 inches; A to E is 19 inches; A to F is 38 inches. Square out from B, C, D, E and F. G is half way between A and B. B to H is half of full breast measure, 20 inches. H to I is 2% inches; I to J is 1 inch. K is half way between B and H, 10 inches. K to L is 3^ inches. Square down from I and L Apply blade measure from B to L, 13^ inches. L to M is \ the distance from A to B, 20 on 6th division. Square up from L and M. O is half way between B and L O to P is 1} inches. Square up from P. P to Q is \ breast. Q to R is \\ inches. Q to T is the same. Square out from R. R to S is % inch. A to U is f inch more than \ breast. Square up from U. U to V is f inch. Draw a line from U to S. E to 1 is \ inch more than ^ breast, F to 21 is the same as E to 1. Shape back Measure back A to V, apply to L and up to N, strap measure 13} plus \ inch, 13^ inches Draw a line from N to G. Square forward from N. N to 23 is \ breast. 23 to 22 is 1^ inches. Draw a line from 22 to J. Sweep from 18 to 20, pivoting at 17.- N to 20 is \ inch less than V to S. N to 19 is \ breast measure. Square forward from 19 by 17. Shape gorge, shoulder, and armscye. From 2 to 3 is if inches. From 3 to 6 is \ waist. From W to X is \ waist. X to Y is 1 \ inches, Y back to Z is 3.I inches. Measure waist, 2 to D and Z to 3 arid take out balance, \ inch, between 6 and 7, or \ inch for every inch the waist is smaller than the breast. Draw a line from K to 6 and K to 7, and shape front and side body. Sweep from 1 to 4, pivoting at T. Sweep from 4 to 8, pivoting at a point 1 inch back from N. Draw a line from 8 to fashionable waist line. Draw a line from waist line to 4. Shape the side body reducing it \ inch at T and \ inch at blade line. THE SKIRT Square down from 3 to 9. 3 to 9 is 9 inches; 9 to 10 is ij- inches. Draw a line from 4 through 10 to 11. 4 to II is \ inch more than 1 to 2 1 . 8 to 12 is the same as _| to 1 1 . I )raw a line from 12 to II. Shape top of skirt dropping it { inch at X. and rounding it | inch over 10. Cut out the back and place point V on point N. Measure over shoulder from G through 18 to L and add \ inch. Finish as represented. THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 57 English Walking Coat 58 THE AMERICAN G ARM E N I CUTTER THREE BUTTON FROCK For Stout Figure The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: Scye depth, 9^ inches Strap, 13^ inches Natural waist, 17 inches Over shoulder, 15 \ inches Fashionable waist, 19 inches Blade, 13^ inches Full length, 38 inches Breast, 40 inches Waist, 40 inches Square lines A — E and A — U. A to B is gl inches; B to C is f inch; A to D is 17 inches; A to E is 19 inches; A to F is 38 inches. Square out from B, C, D, E and F. G is half way between A and B. B to H is half of full breast, 20 inches. H to I is 2% inches. I to J is 1 inch. K is half way between B and H. K to L is 3^ inches. Square clown from L. Apply blade measure from B to L or wherever it comes to. Square up from blade; from L to M is .'. the distance from A to B. Square up from M. O is half way between B and L. O to P is 1^ inches. Square up from P. P to Q is \ breast. Q to R is i£ inches. Q to T the same. Square out from R. R to Sis finch: A to U is if 1 inch more than J breast. Square up from U. U to V is f inch. Draw a line from U to S. E to 1 is ^ inch more than I breast. F to 21 is the same as E to I.. Shape back. From 2 to 3 is i| inches; 3 to 6 is | waist. Measure back A to V, apply to L and up to N, strap measure plus { inch, 13.} inches. I )ra\v a line from N to G. Square forward from N. N to 14 is ,1 breast. 14 to 13 is \\ inches. Draw a line from 13 to J. T7 is half way between L and M. Sweep from 18 to 20, pivoting at 17. N to 20 is \ inch less than V to S. N to 19 is \ breast; square out from 19 by 17. Shape gorge, shoulder, and armscye Shape side body, reducing it ] inch at T a'nd \ inch at blade line. From W to X is i waist X to Y is 1 ) inches. Y to Z is 3.^ inches. Square down from Y. Measure waist 2 to D and Z to 3. There being nothing to take out in this case between 6 and 7, omit taking out a fish, and instead take out ^ inch between i> and 7. Sweep from 1 to 4, pivoting at T. Sweep from 4 to 8, pivoting at 1 inch back from N. Draw a line from where sweep crosses line 8 to side of front. From front edge to 2j is ' waist. Take out \ inch V ai 27. Draw a line from 4 through 27 and 8; note the V at 27 is to be taken out only when the waist is as large or larger than the breast. THE SKIRT Square down from 3 to 9; 3 to 9 is 9 inches; 9 to 10 is i£ inches. Draw a line from 4 through 10 to 11. 4 to 1 1 is the same as 1 to 21. 8 to 12 is the same as 4 to 1 1. Draw a line from 12 to 11. Shape top of skirt reducing it \ inch at 8 and rounding it § inch over 10. Cut out the back and place point V on point N. Measure over shoulder from G through 18 to L and add } inch. 15.V inches. Sweep from wherever the back reached on front and reshape shoulder. THE COLLAR Draw a line from 1 inch above J through N to 25. N to 25 is the same as A to V. 25 to 26 is i£ inches; 25 to 24 is 2 inches; shape as represented. THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 59 ?(. From 9 to 10 is 1 J inches. Draw a line from 4 through 10 to 11. From 4 to 11 is the same as from 1 to 21. From 8 to 12 is the same as from 4 to 1 t. Draw a line from 12 to 1 r and round the skirt J inch at 10. THE REVER Draw a line parallel with X — I, make the width of the rever 2^ inches at the waist, 3^ inches at J and 2f inches at 10 THE COLLAR Draw a line from the lapel crease through X to 24. From X to 24 is the same as from A to U. Square down from 24. From 24 to25 is 1] inches. From 24 to 23 is 2 inches. Make the width of tin- collar at the notch i'{ inches. Finish as represented. THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 65 Three Button Double Breasted Frock 66 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER THREE BUTTON DOUBLE BREASTED FROCK For Stout Figure The measurements by which this draft is 'produced are as follows: Scye depth, y^ inches Strap, 13 j inches Natural waist. 17 inches Over shoulder, 15 j inches Fashionable waist 19 inches Blade 13! inches Full length, 4-' inches Breast, 40 inches Waist, 40 inches Square lines A — V and A — E. A to B is g\ inches; B to C is \ inch; A to D is 17 inches; A to E is 19 inches; A to F is 42 inches. Square out from B, C, D, E and F. G is half way between A and B. B to II is half of full breast. 20 inches. N to I is 2\ inches. K is half way between B and II. K to L is 3| inches. Square down from I and I.. Apply blade measure from B to L. Square up from L. L to M is I the distance from \ to B, 19 on 6th division. Square up from At. ( ) is hall way between B and I.. O to P is 1 \ inches. Square up from P. P to Q is ! breast. O to R is U- inches. Q to T is the same. Square out from l\. I\ to S is '■} inch. A to A" is : l inch more than I breast. Square up from V. V to U is | inch. Draw a line from V to S. E to 1 is I inch more than | breast. 11 to 21 is the same as E to 1. Shape the back. VIi asure back A to U, apply to 1. and up to X. strap measure 1 3 J plus { inch, 13! inches. Draw a line from N to G. Square forward from N. N to 22 is \ inch more than 1 breast. Draw a line from 22 to I. 17 is half way be- tween L and M. Sweep from 18 to 20, pivoting at 17. X to 20 is ] inch less than from U to S. Shape shoulder and armscye. Place a square on K and 18, square forward for gorge. 2 to 3 is i{ inches. 3 to 6 is ] waist. W to X is l waist. X to A' is ] inch; Y back to Z is 2! inches. Measure waist from 2 to D and from Z to 3. There being nothing left to take out, omit the fish and take out \ inch instead between 6 and 7. Shape the side bod)', reducing it \ inch at T and J inch at blade line. Sweep from 1 to 4, pivoting at T. Sweep from 4 to [3, pivoting at 1 inch back from X. Draw a line from 13 to side of front and shape bottom of side body. From 8 p. 1 1 is 1 inch less than I waist. Take out J inch V at 14. Draw: a line from 4 through 1 1 to X. THE REVER Draw a line parallel with X — f. make the width of the rever 2! inches ai 8, 3.1 inches al I, and 2* inches at 1 9. THE SKIRT Square down from 4. | to . ( is 9 inches, o to 10 is 1 1 inches. Draw a line from 4 through i<> to 1 1 . 1 to 1 1 is the same as 1 to 21. Square down front of skirt by waist line. X to 12 is the same as 4 to 11. Draw a line from 12 to 11. Round the skirt § inch at 10. Cm out the back. e point Q on point X. ( let over - shoulder measure from (', through 18 to L, plus J inch. 15! inches. Sweep to 20 and reshape shoulder. Till' COLLAR I )ra\v a line from crease through X to 24. X to 21 is the same as A to I". 24 to 25 is 1 ! in- lie 24 to v is :inches. Shape collar as represented. THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 67 Double Breasted Frock for Stout Figure 68 TH E A M E R I C A N C A R .1/ E N T CU T T E R :\\ this (In ift is ]>n iduced arc as fi illovvs: inches Strap, 13 '. inches inches ( >\ er shoulder. '5! inches inches Blade, '3* inches inches Breast. 40 indies Wins t. 42 inches -E. THREE BUTTON DOUBLE BREASTED FROCK For Corpulent Figure The measurements by which this Scye depth, g\ Natural waist, 17 Fashionable waist i<; Full length, 42 Square lines A — V and A- A to B is g\ inches; B to C is •'; inch; A to 1) is natural waist. 17 inches: A to E is fash- ionable waist, iq inches; A to F is full length. Square out from 1!, C, D, E and F. G is half way between A and B. B to 22 is half of full breast, 20 inches. K is half way between B ami 22. K to 2d is 3^ inches. Square down from 26. For every inch that the waist is larger than the breasl advance ', inch front 26 to L. In this case, where the waist is two inches larger than the breast, the distance between 2(1 and L is -} inch. Square down from L. Advance the same. | inch., from 22 to 21. From 21 to T is 2.\ inches. Square down from T. Apply blade measure from B to 26, 13^ inches. Add .', inch to I. and square up. L to M is \ the distance from A to B. Square up from M. is half way between 1! and 26. O to P is 1} inches. Square up from P. P to Q is J breast. O to R is 1 \ inches. Q to T is the same. Square out from R. R to S is | inch. \ to V is \ inch more than \ breast. Square up from V. V to U is | inch. Draw a line from V to S. E to 1 is \ inch more than \ breast. Shape back. 2 to 3 is 1 J inches. 3 to '1 is | waist. Measure back A to U, apply to L and up to N, strap measure 13} plus ] inch. 13] inches. Draw a line from N to G. Square forward from N. N to 32 is \ inch more than ,1 breast. Draw a line from 7,2 to T. 17 is half way between L and M. Sweep from 18 to 20. pivoting at 17. N to 20 is j inch less than from U to S. I 'lace a square on K and 18, square forward for gorge. Shape gorge, shoulder and armscye. W to X is \ waist. X to Y is j inch. Y back to 7. is 2J, inches. Measure waist from 2 to 1) and from Z to 3. There being nothing left to take out, omit the fish and take out \ inch instead between 6 and 7. Shape the side body, reducing it \ inch at T and j inch at blade line. Sweep from 1 to 4. pivoting at T. Sweep from 4 to 14, pivoting at a point 1 inch back from X. Draw a line from I 4 to the side of front. 8 to 13 is 1 inch less than \ waist. Cut out \ inch V at 13. Draw a line from 4 through 13 to 8: Shape the bottom of side body. Between the front and side body at K take out the J inch that has been advanced be tw een 26 and I .. THE REVER Draw a line parallel with I — X. Make the width of the rever 2'] inches at 8; _\\ inches at J . and 2| inches from X to 19 THE SKIRT Square down In mi 4 to 9. From 4 to 9 is 9 inches. From 9 to 10 is \\ niches 1 )raw a line from 4 through to to 11. 410 11 is | inch more than from E to F. 8 to 12 is the same as from 4 to 11. Square down front of skirl by waist line. Draw a line from 12 to 1 1 and finish skirt. rounding it % inch at to. THE COLLAR Draw a hue from 31 through N to 28. N to 28 is the same as A to V. Square down from 28. 28 to 29 is 1] inches. 28 to 27 is 2 inches. Finish collar as represented THE A MERiCAN GA RMENT CVl I ER m Double Breasted Frock fob Corpulent F gure 70 THE AMERICA .V G A R M E N T C I ' T I I R TUXEDO COAT The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: Scye depth, 9I inches Over shoulder, 14;; inches Waist, 17 inches Blade, 13! inches Full length, 30 inches Breast, 39 inches Strap, 13 inches Waist, 35 inches Hip, 40 inches Square lines A — F and A — U. From A to J! is o , inches; from 1! to C is \ inch; from A to D is 17 inches; from A t<> E is 23 inches; to F is 30 inches. Square out from l'». C, D, E and 1*'. (i is half way between A and B. At D go in .', inch, draw a line up to G and down to F. From the line inside of I! to 1] is half of full breast, 19^ inches. II to I is j\ inches. Square down from I. J is half way between B and H. From J to K is 3} inches. Square down from K. Apply the blade measure from I! to K, 13 \ inches. Square up from K. From I\ to L is .', the distance from A to 1!. Square up from L. M is half way between K and L. P is half way between B and K; P to Q is 1 J inches; square up from Q. From Q to R is j breast ; from R to S is if, inches; square out from S. S to T is \ inch. From A to L* is | inch more than J breast. Square up from U ; U to V is •"' inch. Draw a line from V to T. Shape back. Measure distance A to V, apply to K and up to X. strap measure plus J inch, 13 J inches. Draw a line from X to G to get X ; square forward from N. Place the square at J and X and square forward through < > for gorge. Sweep from X to Y, pivoting at M. From X to Y is | inch less than from V to I Shape the gorge shoulder and armscye. From /. to 3 is 1] inches more than \ waist; from 3 back to 2 is 3^ inches. Square down from 2 to get 8. Measure hip from 9 to E and from 8 to jo. 20 plus \ inch, 20^ inches. Measure waist from 7 to the line inside of D and 2 to 6, 17', plus 1 inch, \%\ inches. Shape the side of front, reducing it \ inch at Q. Sweep from 12 to 15 pivoting at X THE COLLAR The break of the roll is 1 J inches above the pocket. Draw a line from the break to a point \ inch outside of X to 24. From X to 24 is the same distance as from A to \ . Square down from 24. -' | to 25 is 1 j inches. From 24 to 23 is \\ inches. Draw a line from 23 to 3 and finish as represented. THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 71 Tuxedo Coat, Shawl Collar 72 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER TUXEDO COAT, PEAKED LAPEL The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: Scye depth, g\ inches Over shoulder, 14^ inches Waist length, 17 inches Blade, [3 inches Seat, 23 inches Breast. 38 inches Full length, 30 inches Waist, 34 inches Strap, U4 inches Seat, 39 inches Square lines A — U and A — F. A to I! is the scye depth, (>.', inches; B to C is j inch; A to 1 > is 17 inches; A to E is 23 inches; A to F is full length, 30 inches. Square out from B, C, D, E and F. G is half way between \ and B. At D go in \ inch. I )raw a line up i<> < I and down to F. From the line inside of B to H is half of full breast, 19 inches. H to 1 is 2}, inches; square di >\\ 11 fn 'in I. J is half way between Band II. J to K is 3^ inches; square down from K. Apply the Made measure from B t<> K 13 inches. Square up from EC. From 1\ to I. is .', the distance from A to B. Square up from L. M is half way bet- ween K and L. 1' is half way between I! and K. I' to Q is i ] inches. Square up from Q. From 1 to R is \ breast; from K to S is 1 J inches. Square out from S. S to T is f inch. From A to U is \ inch more than | breast. Square up from L'. From U to V is | inch. I )raw a line from V to T. Shape the hack. Measure distance A to Y, apply same to K and up to X, strap measure plus J mch. 13 inches. Draw a line from \ to G to get X. Square forward from \\ From X to \Y is \ inch more than \ breast. Draw a line from W to I. From X to < > is J breast. Draw a line from X through < > for gorge. Sweep from X to Y, pivoting at M. From X to Y is ] inch less than from V to T. Shape the gorge, shoulder and armscye. From / to 2 is | inch more than J waist. From 2 hack to 3 is 2. 1 , inches. 8 is j\ inches I iack fn >m fn mi edge. Measure back 9 to E, apply to Sand back to to, seal measure plus }, inch.. Measure 7 to line inside of D, apply to 3 and back to 6, waist measure plus 1 inch. [8 inches. Shape the side of forepart reducing it \ inch at ( ). Sweep from 12 forward, pivoting at X. Finish as represented. Tuxedo * oat, Peaked Lapel 71- THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FULL DRESS COAT, SHAWL COLLAR The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: Scye depth, 9 inches Strap, 12 inches Natural waist, if 4 inches Over shoulder, 13^ inches Fashionable waist, 18^ inches Blade, i-A inches Full length, 40 inches Breast, 30 inches Waist, 32 inches Square lines A — U and A — E. From A to B is the scye depth, 9 inches; from B to C is 'i inch; from A to D is natural waist, K<\ inches; A to E, fashionable waist, is i84 inches; A to F, full length, is 40 inches. Square out from B, C, D, E and F. G is halt way .between A and B. From B to H is half of full breast, 18 inches. From 11 to I is \\ inches. K is half way between B ami Ft. K to L is 3! inches. Square down from L. Apply the blade measure from B to L, 12^ inches. Square up from E. is half way between 1'. and E. From O to P is 1 { inches. Square up from P. From P to [J is .} breast. raw a line from X to G to get 18. Sweep from 18 to 20, pivoting at 17. Square for- ward from X. From X to 24 is !, inch less than l breast. Draw a line trom 24 to J. From X to [9 is i breast. Draw a line from 18 through iy for gorge. From X to -'O is I inch less than from V to S. Shape the gorge, shoulder and armscye. From _' to 3 is 1^ inches. From 3 to is I waist. From \\ to X is j] inches less than \ waist. X to Y is 1} inches. Measure waist from _' to D and X to 3 and take out balance between 6 and 7. Sweep from 1 to 4, pivoting at T. Sweep from 4 to 1(>, pivoting at a point 1 inch back from X. From 16 to 8 is f inch. Draw lines from K to 6 and K to 7. Shape the side body, reducing it \ inch at T and .[ inch at blade line. Shape bottom of front from 8 to waist line. THE SKIRT Square down from 3 to 1;. From 3 to 9 is 9 inches. Square out from 9. o to 10 is 1 ', inches. Drawn line from 4 through 10 to 11. From 4 to 11 is the same as from 1 to 21. Shape the top of skirt. From 16 to 13 is \'\ inches. From 13 to 14 is '. the distance from [6 to 4. From 11 to 1 _> is the same as from 13(014. 1 )raw a line from 14 to 12. Finish the skirt, rounding it § inch at 10. Till'. REVER AND COLLAR Draw .1 straight line from 24 through I to the waist. Make the width of the rever at the waist 1 : , inches and 2 inches from I to J. Draw the shawl crease through X to 25. In mi X to 25 is the same as from A to \ '. Square down fn un 25. 25 to 26 is 1 ] inches. From 25 to 15 is [J inches. Draw a line from 15 to I and shape as represented. THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 75 Full Dress Coat. Shawl Collar 76 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FULL DRESS COAT, PEAKED LAPEL The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: Scye depth, o! inches Strap, I2| inches Natural waist, [O^ inches Over shoulder, 14^ inches Fashionable waist, 18^ inches Blade, 13 inches Full length, 40 inches Breast, 38 inches Waist, 34 inches Square lines A — U and A — E. \ tn i'. is scye depth, 9^ inches; 1! to C is : ; inch; A to D is natural waist, id! inches; A tn E is fashionable waist, ii>.[ inches; A to F is full length, 40 inches. Square out from 1!, C, D, E anil F. G is half way between A and B. B to II is half of full breast, 19 inches. H to 1 is 1 ! inches. K is hall waj between I! and 1 1 ; K to L is 3! inches. Square down from L. Appl) the blade measure from B to L, 13 inches. Square np from L. L to M is ! the distance from A to 11. 17 is half way between I. and M. ( > is half way between 1'. and I. ( ) to P is 1 ] inches. Square up from I'. P to is j of breast measure. Q to R is [| inches, Q to T the same. Square out from R; R to S is \ inch. V to U is \ inch more than \ of breast measure. Square up from I'. U to V is g inch. I >raw a line from U to S. E to 1 is J inch more than ! breast measure, F to 21 is the same as E to 1. Draw a line from 1 to 21. Shape the back. Measure back A to V. apply to L and up to N, strap measure pins J inch, i_ >: ; inches. I )ra\\ a line from N to G; square forward from X. X to 24 is | inch less than ,'., of breast measure; draw a line from 24 to I. X to 10 is 1 of breast measure. Draw a line from 1 8 through 19 for gorge. Sweep front t8 to 20, pivoting at [7; N to 20 is | inch less than V to S. Shape gorge, shoulder and armscye. From _' to 3 is 1 : ; inches. 3 to 6 is [of waist measure. From VV to X is 2] inches less than ! of waist measure. X to front edge is 1 inch. Draw a line from _'4 through I and X. Measure back 2 to I > and X to 3. fake out balance between <> and 7. Shape the side body, reducing it J inch at T and j inch at blade line. Sweep from 1 to 4, pivoting at T. Sweep from 4 to [6, pivoting at a point 1 inch back from X. From 16 to 8 is £ inch. I 'raw a line front 8 to the side of forepat 1 THE REVER Draw a line parallel with I — 8. Make the width of the rever 1 : f inches at 8, _'! inches at J and _' j inches at 15. THE SKIR I Square down from 3 to 9. 3 to 9 is 9 inches. Square out fn im 9. 9 to 10 is i£ inches. Draw a line from |. through 10 to 1 1. From 4 to 1 1 is the same as fn mi 1 to 21. Shape the top of skirt. b'ri mi [6 to 1 3 is [4 inches. loom [3 to 1 1 is ! the distance from 1(1)04. 1 1 to 12 is the same as [3 to 14. I >raw a line from 14(0 1 _». Finisll skirt , rounding it g inch at 10. Cut out the back, and place point V 011 point X. Get the over shoulder measun from G through t8 to I. plus [ inch. 1.4! inches. Re- shape shi inkier. THE A M E R I C A N G . I R .1 / E N T CUTTER 77 m — i? Full Dress Coat 7S T II E I 1/ E R 1 CA N G A R .1/ E N T CU TTER A FEW WORDS IN REGARD TO WAIST SUPPRESSION In order to get the proper amount of blade pocket, or roundness over the blade bone, we herewith place 3 different diagrams for 3 different figures, namely, the normal, the il.it back and the round Made to show how the waist suppression changes the blade fullness'. DIAGRAM A Idle measurements of this draft are: Blade, 13 inches Breast, 38 inches Waist, 34 inches This Made is considered normal for the breast measure as it leaves the distance from L to I c)l inches, or .', breast. The distance from _> to 3 is 1 ;; inches. 1 ut out the back and place point O to side body and point 1 to 4. and the distance from 28 to jo over-lapped is y inch. THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 79 DIAGR KM \ Normal Blade 80 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER DIAGRAM B FULL BREAST-FLAT BACK Blade, 12^ inches Breast, 38 inches Waist, 34 inches The distance from 27 to J is 10 inches, showing the person to be full breasted with flat back, in which case proceed as follows: From 2 to 5 is if inches; from 27 to L is J inch; take out l of that distance, -]- inch, and place it from 5 to 3. The distance from 6 to 7 will be f inch; cut out the back and place point T to side body and point I to 4, and the distance from 28 to 29 over-lapped is a little less than i inch, thus showing a small blade pocket. THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 81 DIAGRAM B 1m i I Breast, Flai Back 82 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FULL BACK FLAT BREAST DIAGRAM C Blade measure from B to 26 is 13^ inches. Breast, 38 inches Waist, 34 inches The distance from 26 to J is 9 inches, showing the person to be full backed and fiat breasted. Proceed as follows: From 2 to 3 is if inches. From L to 26 is A inch. Take \ inch off from 3 to 5, which is | the distance from L to 26, and take out balance of waist between 6 and 7. Cut out the back and place point T to sidebody and point I to 4 and the distance from 28 to 29 over-lapped is f inch, showing a large blade pocket. THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTE TER 83 DIAGRAM C Full Back, Flat Breast 84 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER CHESTERFIELD OVERCOAT The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: Scye depth. oi inches Over shoulder, 14,} inches Waist length, 17 inches Blade. 13 inches Full length. 42 inches Breast. 38 inches Strap, 1 -'ii inches Waist. 34 inches Hip. 39 inches Add 3 inches to the breast and waist measures and % inch over short measures. Square lines A — U and A — F. From A to Bis \o\ inches; B to C is % inch; from A to D is [7 inches; A to E is 23 inches; A to F, full length, is 42 inches. G is half way between A and B. Square out from B, C, D, E and F. From B to 11 is half of full breast. jo\ inches. H to 4 is 2 A inches; 4 to 1 is _' inches. Square down from 4 and I. } is half way between B and 11. J to K is 3.! inches. Square down from K. Apply the blade measure from B to K. 13 phis ; ] inch, 13] inches. Square up from K. From K to L is .', the distance from A to 1'.. Square up from L. M is half way be- tween K and L. P is half way between B and K. P to Q is 1 A inches. Square up from Q. From O to 1\ is { breast. R to S is i-J inches. Square out from S. S to T is : ; inch. From A to U is : J inch more than .' breast. Square up from I'. U to V is | inch. I 'raw a line from V to T. Shape the back. Measure distance from A to V, apply same to K and up to X, strap measure 12^ plus I inch. iyl inches. 1 )raw a line from X to G to get X. Square forward from X. From X to 141s ,' ; breast. 14 to 13 is 2A inches. Draw a line from 13 to I. From X to ( ) is i breast. Square forward from by M. Sweep from X to Y, pivoting at M. From X to Y is j inch less than from V to T. Shape the gorge, shoulder and armscye. From Z to 5 is A waist. From 3 to 3 is 2 \ inches. From 3 back to 2 is 4.I inches. 8 is 4. l ,-mehes back from the front edge. Shape the front. Measure back from 10 to K. appl) same to 8 ami back to 10. scat measure. 21 plus A inch. 2 1.', inches. From 10 to 9 is r{ inches. Square up from <; to o. Draw a line from 6 through 10 to [2. Shape the side of front reducing it J inch at Q. Sweep from 1 1 to 12, pivoting at J. Sweep from 12 to 15, pivoting at X. Till-'. COLLAR 1 (raw a line from the lapel crease through X to 21. X to 21 is the same distance as from A to V. Square down from 21. From 21 to 22 is 1 | inches. 2 1 to 20 is 2 | inches. Finish as ri'i iresented. THE AMERICAN GARMENT' CUTTER 85 *®~ Chesterfield Overcoat 86 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER TOP COAT The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: Scye depth, 9^ inches Over shoulder, 14^ inches Waist length, 17 inches Blade, 13I inches Full length, 35 inches Breast, 39 inches Strap, 13 inches Waist, 35 inches Add 3 inches to the breast and waist measures and § inch to the short measures. Square lines A — U and A — F. From A to B is ioj inches; B to C is ; ; inch; A to 1 ) is 17 inches; A to E is 23 inches; A to F is 35 inches. ( i is half way between A and B. Square out from 1'., C, D, E and F. From B to II is half of full breast, 21 inches. 1 1 to I is 4. 1 , inches. Square down from I. J is half way between I! and H. J to K is 3^ inches. Square down from K. Apply the blade measure from B to K, 13J plus , ; inch, 14 inches; square up from K. From K to L is .', the distance from A to B. Square up from L. P is half way between I', and K. P to Q is ih inches. Square up from Q. Q to R is } breast. R to S is 1 \ inches. Square out from S. S to T is f inch. \ to (J is ij inch more than | breast. Square up from U. U to \Y is | inch. Draw a line from \Y to T. Shape the back. Measure distance A to W, apply same to K and up to M. strap measure 13 plus 1 inch, 14 inches. Draw a line from Al to G to get 22. Square forward from Al. M to 12 is ,', breast; 12 to 11 is 2^ inches. Draw a line from 1 1 to I. From Al to X is 1 breast. is half way between K and J.. Square forward from N by ( ). Sweep from 22 to 6, pivoting at O. From M to 6 is \ inch less than W to T. Shape tin- gorge, shoulder and armscye. A is where the armscye crosses line B. S [uare down from \' to X; from A" to X is 12 inches. Square out from \. From \ to X is 3 inches. From X to A' is i inch. Draw lines from \ through A" and from V through Z. brum A' to J is as much extra back as you wish to add to a box coal . from \ inch to 1 J- inches. Reshape back as from broken to solid lines. From A' to 2 is the same length as from J i<. 1 . Sweep from 2 to 7, pivoting at Al. From to to 9 is \ waist; from 9 to 8 is 2.\ inches. Finish the front. THE COLLAR Draw a line from lapel crease through M to 1 |. Al to [4 is the same as from A to W. Square clown from 14. 14 to 15 is 1 | inches. 14 to 13 is i\ inches. Finish as represented. THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER s7 Top Coat THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FULL BOX OVERCOAT The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: Scye depth. 9-V inches Over shoulder, 14^ inches Waist length, 17 inches Blade, 13 inches Full length, 50 inches Breast, 38 inches Strap, ' 12'i inches Waist, 32-36 inches Add 3 inches to breast and waist measures, and f inch over all short measures. Scpiare lines A — U and A — F. A to B is io| inches; B to C is % inch; A to D is 17 inches; A to F is 50 inches. Square out from B, C, D and F; G is halfway between A and LI. B to H is half of full breast, joA inches. H to I is 2 A inches; 1 to J is 2 inches. Square down from 1 and J. W is half way between 1'. and 1 1 : W to K is 3! inches; scpiare down from K. Apply the blade measure from B to K. plus % inch, 13^ inches. Scpiare up from K; K to L is .', the distance from A to B, 20A on 6th division. P is half way between B and K. P to O is iA inches. Square up from Q< Q to R is j breast. R to S is 1 A inches. Square out from S; S to T is : i inch. A to U is |j inch more than I breast. Square up from U. U to V is I inch. 1 )raw a line from V to T. Measure back A to V, apply to K and up to O, strap measure plus 1 inch, 13I inches. Draw a line from ( ) to G. Square forward from O. to 12 is I breast. 12 to 1 1 is 2\ inches. Draw a line from 11 to J. M is half way between L and K. Sweep from 5 to o, pivoting at M. From O to 6 is ] inch less than V to T. From to X is \ breast. Scpiare forward from X by M. Shape gorge, shoulder and armscye. 4 is where the armscye crosses line P. Square down from 4 to X. 4 to X is 12 inches. Scpiare out from X. X to Z is vV inches. X to Y is \ inch. Draw a line" from 4 through 7. to 2. Draw a line from 4 through Y to the bottom. From 4 to W is as much extra back as you want to allow for a box coat, from A inch to 1 { inches. Draw a line from W to 1. Reshape back as represented 10 to .» is .', waist. 9 to S is i\ inches. Shape the front. Sweep from 1 to 2, pivoting at 4. Sweep from 2 to 7. pivoting at ( ). Shape bottom of front. Cut out back and place point V on point O. Get over-shoulder measure from G through 5 to K. 14! inches, plus 1 inch. 15A inches. Reshape shoulder. THE COLLAR 1 >raw a line from lapel crease through < I to 14. to 14 is the same as A to V. Square down from 14. 14 to 1 5 is 1 [ inches. 1 4 to 13 is 2 j inches. Shape collar as represented. THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 89 Full Box Overcoat 90 T II E . I M E RIC A N G A R M E A T C U T T E R INVERNESS The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: Scye depth, 9^ inches Over shoulder, 14^ inches Waist length, 17 inches Blade, 13 inches Full length, 50 inches Breast, 38 inches Strap, i2f inches Waist, i 2 '^ inches Add 3 inches to breast and waist measure and 5 inch to all short measures. Square lines A — E and A — V. A to B is 10 I inches; B to C is % inch; A to 1 ' is \~\ inches; A to E is 50 inches. Square out from B, C, D and E. F is half way between A and B. B to G is half of full breast, 20^ inches. G to H is 4^ inches. Square down from H. I is half way between B and G. I to J is 3| inches. Square down from J. Apply blade measure from B to J plus $ inch, 13I inches. Square up from J. J to K is l the distance from A to B. Square up from K. L is half way between J and K. P is half way between B and J. P to Q is 1^ inches. Square up from Q. From O to U is 1 inch. Q to R is } breast measure. R to S is 1^ inches. Square out from S. S to T is % inch. A to V is J inch more than ^ breast. Square up from V. V to W is ;'- inch. Draw a line from V to T. Square down from U to X. U to X is 12 inches. Square out from X. X to Z is 35 inches. X to Y is J inch. Draw a line from U through Y to 10. Draw a line from U through Z to 1 1. From 11 to 1 1 is the same as from U to 10. Shape back from A to W and from W through R to U. Measure distance A to W, apply to J and up to M, strap measure plus 1 inch, 13'j inches. Draw a line from M to F. Square forward from M. M to O is } breast; O to 17 is 2] inches.. Draw a line from 17 to H. M to N is i breast. Square forward from N by L. M to 1 is the same distance as from W to 36. T to 6 is J of the breast. Square out from 6. From 7 to 8 is \ waist. 8 to q is 2I inches. Shape the front. Sweep from 1 1 to 12, pivoting at M. Shape gorge, shoulder and armscye. THE CAPE Place a sheet of paper under the pattern and trace out as follows: From 1 to M, around the gorge, to crease of lapel. Hack from II is 2 | inches and 9 to 8 is the same. Measure the inside sleeve length from J to 4. Sweep from 4 to 5, pivoting at M. Sweep from 4 to 3, pivoting at M. Extend line 1 through 2 and B to 3. Finish as represented. Nick the back at line 6. THE COLLAP Draw a line from IT through M to 13. 1V1 to 13 is the same as A to W. Square down from 13. From [3 to 15 is 1 J inches. From 13 to 14 is 2 inches. Make the width of the collar at 16 two inches. Draw a line from 14 to 16 and finish as represented. THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 91 Inverness 92 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER DOUBLE BREASTED ULSTER The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: Depth of scye, 10 inches Over shoulder, 15 inches Waist length, 17! inches Blade, 13^ inches Full length, 48 inches Breast, 40 inches Strap, 13] inches Waist, 36 inches Seat, 41 inches Add 3 inches over breast and waist and :; inch over all short measures. 'Square lines A — U and A — F. A to B is io| inches; B to C is f inch; A to D is i~S inches; D to E is 6 inches; A to F is full length, 48 inches. Square out from I'.. C, D, E and F. G is half way between A and B. B in 11 is half of full breast measure, 21-i inches. H to 4 is i\ inches. 4 to I is \\ inches. Square down from 4 and 1. J is half way between B and II. J to K is 3^ inches. Square down from K. Apply the blade measure from B to K, 13^ plus % inch, 14^ inches. Square up from K. K to 1. is \ the distance from A to 1'.. Square up from L. M is half way between K and L. 1' is half w:i\ between I! and K. P to is 1 A inches. Square up and down from Q. A to U is \ inch more than \ breast. Square up from V . V to V is | inch. Q to R is \ breast. R to S is \\ inches. Square out from S. S to 'I" is | inch. Draw a line from U to T. Shape the back. Measure distance A to V, apply to K and up to X, strap measure plus 1 inch, 14', inches Draw a line from X in (. to get X. Square forward from X. N to 14 is I breast. 14 to 13 is 5 inches. Draw a line from 13 to I. X to O is ^ breast. Square forward from O by M. Sweep from X to V, pivoting at M. X to Y is \ inch less than V to T. Shape the gorge, shoulder and armscye, /. t<> 5 is \ waist measure. 5 to 3 is 4;] inches. 3 to 2 is 7 inches. From front edge to 8 is the same as Iron. 3 to 2. -Measure back 10 to F, appl) to 8 and back to 10, seat measure. 44 inches. 10 to 9 is 1 \ inches. Square up from n to 0. 1 (raw a line from (> through 10 to 12. Shape the side of the front. In mi 6 to 1 2 is the same as from 7 to 11. Sweep from 12 to 15, pivoting at X. Between front and back at Q take out \ inch. Extend line from 4 — 5 up and take out V as indicated. THE COLLAR Draw a line from lapel crease to \ inch beyond N. Extend line ( > — X to 21. From X to 2] is the same as from A to V. Square down from 21 to jj. From 21 to 22 is 5.I inches. From 21 to jo is 1 J inches. 1 )raw a line from 21 down to V as marked. Shape the collar stand from 20 as indicated. Cul out the back. Place point V on point X. Get over shoulder measure from ( i through X to K, 15 plus 1 inch, id inches. Reshape sin mlder. THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 93 Double Breasted Ulster 94 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER SINGLE BREASTED FROCK OVERCOAT The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: Scye depth, 9f inches Strap, 13 inches Natural waist, \-j\ inches Over shoulder, 14! inches Fashionable waist, 19^ inches Blade, clinches Full length, 50" inches Breast, 39 inches Waist, 35 inches Add three inches to the breast and waist measures, and | inch over all short measures. Square lines A — E and A — U. A to B is io4 inches; B to C is $ inch; A to D is i;i inches; A to E is 19^ inches; A to F is so inches. Square out from B. C, D, F and F. G is half way between A and B. B to H is half of full breast. 2 1 inches. H to I is i\ inches. I to J is 2 inches. K is half way between B and H. K to L is 3-i inches. Square down from I and L. Apply the blade measure from B to L, 13^ plus f inch, 14 inches. Square up from L. L to M is \ the distance from A to B, 21 on 6th division. Square up from M. O is half way between B and L. O to P is \\ inches. Square up from P. P to Q is \ breast measure. to R is H inches, O to T is the same. Square out from R. R to S is $ inch. A to U is f inch more than \ breast measure. Square up from U. U to V is \ inch. Draw a line from U to S. F to t is 1 inch more than \ breast measure. F to 21 is the same as E to 1. Draw a line from 1 to 21 and shape back. Measure back A to V, apply to L and up to N, strap measure, plus 1 inch, 14 inches. Draw a line from N to G. Square forward from N. N to 14 is \ breast measure. 14 to 13 is 2% inches. Draw a line from 13 to J. \~ is half way between L and M. Sweep from 18 to 20. pivoting at 17. N to 15 is i breast measure, square forward from 15 by 17. N to 20 is 1 inch less than Y to S. Shape gorge, shoulder and armscye. From 2 to 3 is i| inches. 3 to 6 is j waist measure. \Y to X is ^ waist measure. X to V is 2 1 , inches. Y back to 7. is 4J- inches. Measure waist 2 to D and Z to 3; take out balance between 6 and 7. Sweep from 1 to _t. pivoting at T. Sweep from 4 to 8, pivoting at I inch back from X. Draw a line from 8 to the side of front. Shape the side body, reducing it } inch at T and | inch at blade line. THE SKIRT 1 >r;iw a line from 8 to 4. Draw a line from point 5 to waist line at 16 and square down to 9. 10 to 9 is 9 inches. Square out from 9. 9 to to is 1 ' inches. Draw a line from id through 10 to 11 [6 to II is the same as t to 21. S to 12 is the same as 16 to 11. Square down from 8 by waist line. Square down the front of the skirt by the waist line. Shape bottom of skirt'. Round the skirt 5 inch at 10. Tut out the back. Place point V on noint N. Get the over-shoulder measure from G through 18 to L plus 1 inch, 15$ inches. THE COLEAR Draw a line from the lapel crease through N to 23. N to 23 is the same as A to V. Square down from 23. 23 to 22 is t J inches. 23 to 24 is 2} inches. At the notch make the collar 2 inches wide. Finish as represented, THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER Single Breasted Frock Overcoat or Single Breasted Surtout 96 THE A M E RI CAN G A R M E N T C U TTER DOUBLE BREASTED FROCK OVERCOAT The measurements by which this draft is produced arc as follows: Scye depth, 93 inches Strap, 13 inches Natural waist, 17.] inches Over shoulder, 14] inches Fashionable waist, ig\ inches Blade, 13] inches Full length. 50 inches Breast, 39 inches Waist, 35 inches (Add 3 inches to the breast and waist measures and ;, ; inch over all short measures.) Square lines A — E and A — U. A to B is ioi inches; B to C is '\ inch; A to D is \~\ inches; A to E is \n\ inches; A to F is 50 inches. Square out from B, C, I >, E and F. < ', ishalf way between A and B. B to H is half of full breast measure, 21 inches. 1 1 to 1 is 2 ! inches. K is half way between Hand II. K to L is 3^ inches. Square down from 1 and L. Apply the blade measure from I'. to I.. 13] inches, plus ;] inch, 14 inches. Square up from L. 1. to M is \ the distance from A to B. Square up from M. ( ) is half way between 1! and L. O to P is 1 J inches. Square up from P. I' to Q is I breast. Q to R is 1 \ incite-. Q to I' 1- the same. Square out from R. R t< ' S is '] inch. A i" U is I inch more than l breast. Square up from l". {' to V is | inch. Draw a line from U to S. E to 1 is J inch more than -J breast. F to 21 is the same as E to 1. Draw a line from 1 to 21 and shape back. Measure back A to A', apply to L and up to X. strap measure plus 1 inch, 14 inches. Draw a line from X 1 to G. Square forward from X. X to 13 is J inch more than }. breast. Draw a line from 13 to I. 17 is hall way between I. and M. Sweep from [8 to 20, pivoting at 17. Pla* e the square at l\ and iX and square forward through 13 for gorge. X to 20 is ! inch less than V to S. Shape gorge, shoulder and armscye. From 2 to 3 is I :'} inches. From 3 to 6 is J waist. From W to X is | waist measure. X to Y is | inch. A' back to / is _>.', inches. Measure waist 2 to 1 ) and 7. to 3 and take out balance between 6 and 7. Sweep from 1 to 4. pivoting at T. Sweep from 4 to X, pivoting at 1 inch back from X. I 'raw a line from X in the side of front. Shape the side body, reducing it [ inch at T and J inch at blade line. THE SKIRT Draw a line from 8 to 4. Draw a line from point 10 to waist line at 4 ami square down loo. \ to 9 is 9 inches. Square out from 9. 9 to 10 is 1 !, inches. Draw a line from 4 through 10 to 11. 4 to 1 1 is tlie same as t to 21. 8 to 1 2 is the same as 4 to 11. Square down from X 1>\ waist line. Finish skirt rounding it | inch at 10. TIM' RFA'FR Draw a line parallel with X — I Make the width of the rever 2 : ; inches at the waist line, 1 inches at J, and 3 inches at [9. Square down the front of the skirt by the waist line. 1 in "lit the back. Place point V on point X. Get over-shoulder measure from (i through r8 to L, over-shoulder measure plus 1 inch. i; : ; inches. THE C< >l I. \R I Maw a line from the lapel crease through X to 23. X to 23 is the same as \ 1. 1 V. Square down from 23. j,\ to _>_> is 1 | inches. 23 to 24 is 2 1 , inches. At 25 make the collar 2J inches wide. Finish as represented THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 97 Double Breasted Frock Overcoat, or Double Breasted Surtout 98 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER SINGLE BREASTED PALETOT The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: Scye depth, . E and F. < . is half way between A and B. B to H is half of full breast, 21 inches. H to I is >h inches. I to J is 2 inches. Square down from I and J. K is half way between B and H. K to L is 3^ inches. Square down from L. Apply the blade measure from B to L. 13] plus | inch. 14 inches. Square up from L. I. to M is I the distance from A to B. Square up from M. N is half way between B and L. N to O is 1 i inches. Square up from O. O to P is \ breast. P to O is 1^ inches. P to S is the same. Square out from O. O to R is f inch. E to T is £ inch more than I breast measure. Square down from T. A to U is I inch more than J breast measure. Square up from U. U to W is § inch. Draw a line from U to R. Shape the back. Measure back A to W, apply to L and up to X, strap measure plus 1 inch, 14 inches. Draw a line from X to G. Square forward from X. X to 23 is £ breast measure. 23 to 22 is 2^ inches. Draw a line from 22 to J. 18 is half way between L and M. Sweep from 24 to Z, pivoting at 18. X to Z is \ inch less than W to R. X to Y is I breast. Square forward from Y by 18. Shape gorge, shoulder and arm- scye. From 14 to 6 is 1 \ inches. Square down from K. Shape the side body, reducing it 1 inch at S and j inch at blade line. Sweep from T to 5, pivoting at S. Sweep from 5 to 20. pivoting at t inch back from X. From t to 2 is \ waist measure. From 2 to 3 is j\ inches. 3 back to .4 is \\ inches. Measure waist 14 to D and 4 to 6, take out balance between 7 and 8. From 20 to 21 is g inch. Draw a line from 21 through the side of front to 9. Square down from o- Q to 10 is 9 inches. Square out from I O. 10 to 1 1 is 1 1 inches. Draw a line from through t i to 13. to 13 is the same as E to F. Sweep from 13 to 19, pivoting at X. Finish skirt rounding | inch from 1 1 to 12. Cut out the back. Place point W on point X. Het over shoulder measure from G through 24 to L, [4! plus ( inch, 15} inches. Sweep to Z and reshape shoulder. THE AMERICAN GARME N T C U T T E R 99 Single Breasted Paletot 100 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER SINGLE BREASTED PADDOCK The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: Scye depth, 9 inches Over Shoulder, 13^ inches Natural Waist, 17 inches Blade, 12% inches Fashionable waist, 19 inches Breast, 30 inches Full length, 50 inches Waist, 32 inches Strap, 12 inches Seat, 37 inches (Add 3 inches to the breast and waist measures and 4 - inch over all short measures.) Square lines A — V and A — G. A to B is 94 inches; B to C is | inch; A to D is i/i inches; A to E is 19 inches; A to G is 50 inches. Square out from B, C, D, E and G. II i> half way between A and B. From D to F is 6 inches always. Square out from F. From D to V is ] inch. Draw a line from Y to II. From the line just made at B to 1 is half of the full breast measure, 19^ inches. I to J is 2^ inches. J to K is 2 inches. Square down from J and K. L is half way between B and 1. E to M is 3^ inches. Square down from M. Apply the blade measure from the line inside of B to M, I2| plus jj inch, 13J- inches. Square up from M. M to N is ;', the distance from A to B, nj\ on 6th division. Square up from X. 1' is half way between B and M. 1' to O is U inches. Square up from Q. Q to R is \ breast. R to S is 1^ inches. R to T is the same. Square out from S. S to U is f inch. A to V is 4 inch more than \ breast. V to W is f of an inch. Draw a line from V to U. Y to X is \ breast. Square down from X. Shape the back. Measure back A to W apply to M and up to Z, strap measure plus 1 inch, 13 inches. Z to 3 is £ breast measure. Square forward from 3 by O. Draw a line from Z to IE Square forward from Z. Z to 20 is \ breast measure. 2(1 to 25 is i\ inches. Draw a line from 25 to K. is hall way between M and N. Sweep from 1 to 2, pivoting at O. Z to 2 is \ inch less than W to U. Shape gorge, shoulder, and armscye. From 4 to 5 is \ waist measure. 5 to 6 is 2] inches. 6 back to 7 is 4-^ inches. Shape the front edge. From 8 to 9 is 4]- inches. Measure back 12 to F and 9 to 13, seat measure 20 plus 1 inch. 21 inches. From X to 1 1 is 1 j inches. Draw a line from 11 through 13 to 14. Measure waist X to Y and 7 to 11, take out balance between 16 and 17. Shape the side of the front, reducing it \ inch at P and rounding \ of an inch over the line 13 and 14. From 11 to fashionable waist is : ^ of an inch more than X to fashionable waist. Sweep from 2~ to 14. pivoting at T. Sweep from 14 to 15. pivoting at Z. Shape the bottom. 1 'ut out back, place point \V on point Z. 1 ,et over shoulder measure from II through 1 to M, 13} plus i inch — \ \\ inches. Sweep to 2 and reshape shoulder. THE COLLAR Draw a line from 2^ through to 20. Z to 20 is the same as \ to W. Square down from 20. 20 to 21 is 1 J inches. 20 to 22 is 2] inches. Shape as represented. THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 1(U i. Breasted Paddock 102 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER DOUBLE BREASTED PADDOCK lie measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: Scye depth, 9^ inches Over shoulder, 14I Natural waist, iji inches Blade with allowance, 13 Fashionable waist, ioi inches Breast, 38 Full length, 50 inches Waist, 34 inches inches inches inches inches Strap, \2h inches Hip, 40 Add 3 inches to the breast, waist and hip, and 5 inch over scye depth, strap, over shoul- der and blade. Square lines A — V and A — G. A to B is \o\ inches; B to C is 4 inch; A to D is \"j\ inches; E fashionable waist; F hip; and G full length. Square out from B, C, D, E, F and G. H is half way between A and B. D to inner line is \ inch. Draw a line from the \ inch to II and down. From line inside of B to I is \ of full breast, 20| inches. I to J is -'', inches. J to 1\ is 4 inches. Square down from J and K. L is half way between B and I L to M is 3! inches. Square down from M. Apply the blade measure from 1! to M, 13 plus \ niches. 1 y\ inches. M to N is \ the distance from A to B. Square up from N and up and down from M. I' is half way between B and M. P to Q is 1 \ inches. Square up from Q. O to R is \ breast. R to S is H inches. R to T is the same. Square out from S. S to U is 5 inch. A to V is J breast plus \ inch. V to \V is f inch. Draw a line from V to U. From D to X is \ breast. Square down from X. Finish back as represente Measure distance A to W Draw a line from Z to H. 4i inches. O is half way between M an Su'eep from 1 to 2, pivoting at O. Z to 2 is -] inch less than W to U. Z to 3 is i breast. Draw a line from 1 through 3 for gorge. Shape gorge, shoulder am From 4 to 5 is .', waist : 5 to 6 is 4] inches; 6 to 7 is (>J inches. Draw and 24 to K. Extend line J — 5 up and take out V. Shape front edge and lapel. 8 to 9 is 6i inches. Square down from L. From \" to TI is 1] inches. Measure waist from X t( side of D, apply to 7 and back to 11. Takeout balance between 16 and 17. Measure back 12 to F and 9 to 13, hip measure plus 1 inch. 1 )raw a line from 1 1 through 13 to 14 and shape side. Sweep from I.| to 15. pivoting at Z. Finish as represented. to M and /.. strap measure plus 1 inch, Square forward fn X. im Z. Z to 25 is \ breast. inches. 25 to 24 is armscye. ines from 25 to J THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 103 Double Breasi ed Paddoi k 104 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER MEASURING A HUNCHBACK In measuring this figure all the measures are taken the same as for any other person, except that after the scye depth is located place a square or a ruler at the back and let the upper end come opposite to where the collar ought to begin. See figure 6. Line B is the scye depth. Letter A is the height of the neck. Take the measure as from A to B, then begin to measure the scye depth as from C to B. The difference in the length in A — B and C — B is changed in the draft. THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER LOE How to Measure a Hunchback IOC THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER STRAIGHT FRONT SACK FOR HUNCHBACK The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: Height of neck, 8^ inches Over shoulder, 13 \ inches Scye depth, 9^ inches Blade, 13I inches Waist length, 17 inches Breast, 38 inches Full length, 30 inches Waist, 36 inches Strap, 11^ inches Seat, 38 inches Square lines A — U and A — F. A to B is height of neck, 8^ inches; B to C is | inch; A to D is 17 inches; A to E is 23 inches; A to F is full length, 30 inches. Square out from B, C, D, E and F. G is half way between A and B. At D go in j inch. Draw a line from G to D and square down. From the line just made at B to H is half of full breast, 19 inches. H to I is 3 h inches. Square down from 1 J is half way between I! and 11. I to K is 33 inches. Square down from K. Apply the blade measure from line inside of B to \V, 13^ inches. Square up from W. \\ to L is > s the measure of depth of scye, i8£ on 6th division. M is half way between W and L. P is half way between B and W. P to O is 1 \ inches. Square up from O Q to R is \ breast. R to S is 1 i inches. Square out from S. S to T is f inch. A tn I" is '■'; inch mure than J breast measure. Square up from L : . U to V is | inch. Draw a line from U to T. Shape back as represented. Measure distance A to V, apply to W and up to N, strap measure 1 1] plus ) inch, 1 ti inches. Draw a line from N to G. Sweep from X to V, pivoting at M. N to Y is .[ inch less than V to T. N to O is § breast measure. Square forward from O by M. Square forward from N. N to 13 is I- breast. 13 to 14 is ih inches. Draw a line from 14 to 1. Shape the gorge, shoulder, and armscye. From X to 5 is \ waist measure. 5 to 3 is 1 \ inches. 3 to 2 is 3! inches. 8 is 3-1 inches from the front edge. Measure back 7 to D and 2 to 6, waist measure plus 1 inch. Measure 9 to E and 8 to 10, seat measure plus 1 inch. Shape side of front, reducing one half inch between back and front at O, sweep from 12 forward, pivoting by N; finish bottom. The scye depth as from (' to B on figure is 9) inches. 1 111 the back from G to R, and open it from G to 15 until the measure from B to 16 is 9 J inches. (ut out the back and place point V on point N. Get over shoulder measure from (i through X to \\ . 13! plus j, 13. 1 , inches. Finish as represented. THE AME R I C AN GAR M E N T C U T T E R Wt Straighi Front Sack for Hunchback 108 T H E A M E R I C A N G A R M E NT CUT T E R CASSOCK COAT The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: Scye depth, 9^ inches Strap, 12J inches Natural waist, 17.I inches Over shoulder, 14^ inches Fashionable waist, \<>' 2 inches Blade, 13 inches Full length, 52 inches Breast, 38 inches Waist, 34 inches Square lines A — U and A — E. A to B is 9. 1 inches, B to C is If inch; A to D is \j\ inches; A to E is if)i inches; A to F is 52 inches. Square out from B, C, D, E and F. G is half way between A and B. B to H is half of full breast, 19 inches. H to I is 2^ inches. I to J is 1 inch. K is half way between I! and 11. K to L is 3^ inches. Square down from 1 and 1.. Apply the blade measure from B to L 13 inches. Square up from L. L to M is I the distance from A to B. Square up from M. O is half way between B and L. O to P is i\ inches. Square up from P. P to Q is ^ breast. Q to R is I^ inches. Q to T is the same. Square out from R. R to S is JJ- inch. A to U is 3 inch more than J breast measure. Square up from U. U to V is | inch. 1 >raw a line from U to S. E to 1 is I inch more than J breast measure. F to 21 is 4 breast measure. Draw a line from 1 to 21. Shape back as represented. Measure distance A to Y. apply to E and up to X, strap measure plus \ inch. 13 inches. Draw a line from N to G. Square forward from X. X to 14 is ,' ; breast. From 14 'ii 13 is 1 \ inches. Draw a line from 13 to J. 5 is half way between E and M. Sweep from 18 to 20, pivoting at 5. From X to 20 is ] inch less than from V to S. N to 15 is -J breast. Square forward from 15 by 5. Shape gorge, shoulder, and armscye. From 2 to 3 is 1 '■'; inches. From 3 to 6 is j- waist. From W to X is J waist. From X to Y is 1 ] inches. V back to Z is 3J inches. Measure waist 2 to 1). apply to Z and back to 3 for waist measure; take out balance be- tween 6 and 7. Sweep from i to 4. pivoting at T. Sweep from 4 to X. pivoting at a point 1 inch back from X. In mi 8 to 17 is .', inch. Draw a line from 17 through 33 to 16. Square down from 10. From id to is o inches. From 9 t'> 10 is 1 ^ inches. Draw a line from 16 through 10 to 1 1 . From 10 to 11 is the same as from E to F. Square down from front of skirt by waist line. From 8 to 12 is tin- same as fn mi 16 to 11. Shape the bottom of skirt. Cut out the back and place point V on point X. get over shoulder measure from G through 18 to L plus ] inch. 14JJ inches. Till-. COLLAR Draw a line from the top of lapel through N to 23. From N to 23 is the same as from \ to V From 23 t" 22 is 1 inch. From 24 to jt, is J inch. Finish collar, making the width of same in front t .', inches. THE A M ERIC A N GAR M ENT CUTTER 109 Cassock 110 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER THE SLEEVE Measure the arm scye. If for a sack coat without an underarm seam, add J inch to the measurement; for i stance, if the armscye measures 18 inches, make the sleeve iNA inches; but if there is an und< arm seam, then cut it according to measure. Square lines A — L and A — F. A to B is i i inches always. B to D is j of the armscye. D to C is I inch. C to E is ^ of the armscye. Square out from B and D. From C to II find h of the arm scye. H to I is -\ inch. Square down from I. II to J is i inch. Draw a line from E to J. A to K is J of the armscye. K to L is i of the armscye. Draw a line from C to K. From D to ( > and F to Q is i| inches. From B to P and F to R are i \ inches. Shape the sleeve from O through C through L to H. Shape the undersleeve from C through P to J. D to F is the inside length of the sleeve plus | of an inch. Square out from F. Fn 'in the line just made to X 1 is 1 § inches. M is half way between 1 and N. Measure width of sleeve from F to N. Add i inch for seams. 1 >raw lines from 1 I to M and from J to M. Finish as represented. THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 111 Sleeve 112 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER HALF AND HALF SLEEVE Measure the arm scye. If for a sack coat without an underarm seam, add \ inch to the measurement. For in- stance, if the armscye measure is 18 inches, make the sleeve i8| inches, but if there is an underarm scam, then cut it according to measure. Square lines A — L and A — F. A to B is i \ inches always. 1'. to D is \ of the armscye. D to C is i inch always. C to E is .' of the armscye. Square out from B and D. From C to H is i of the armscye. H to I is \ inch. II to J is I inch. Square down from I. A to K is | of the armscye. K to L is \ of the armscye. Draw a line from C to K. Draw a line from E to J. From I) to F is the sleeve length. F to Q is 1 1 inches. Square out from Q. From F to N is the width of the sleeve plus i inch for seams. M is half way between I and \. Shape the upper sleeve from 1 1 to M and the undersleeve from J to M. Shape the upper sleeve from II through L to C. \ml the undersleeve from J t < » < '. Finish as represented, hollowing the sleeve | inch at the front seam. THE AMERICAN G A R M E NT CUTTER 113 K L The Half axu Half Sleeve 114 T H E A M E R IC AN G ARM EN T CUTTER SLEEVE FOR BOX OVERCOAT Measure the armscye before the back is cut out without extra addition to the back, and then measure the addition that the back makes. For instance, if the armscye measures 20 inches without the addition, cut the sleeve 20, and add the difference of the addition of the back, to the undersleeve. Square lines A — L and A — F. A to B is \\ inches always. B to D is } of the armscye. D to C is 1 inch always. C to E is ^ of the armscye. Square out from D and B. From C to H is -i of the armscye. II to I is A inch. H to J is 1 inch. Square down from I. A to K is I of the armscye. K to L is -J of the armscye. Draw a line from C to K. Draw a line from E to J. From D to F is the length of the sleeve. Square out from F. From the line just made to N is if inches. From F to N is the width of the sleeve plus 1 inch for seam. A I is halfway between I and X. From D to P and F to R is 1 | inches. From 1 > to < ) and F to Q is r J inches in each case. Shape the upper and under sleeve, hollowing them £ inch at front seam. From J to t add the increase that the back has made, say \ inch. Shape the under sleeve from 1 to M and from 1 through P to C. Finish as represented. THE AM ERIC. IX GARMENT CUTTER 115 Sleeve for Box Overcoat 116 THE AM URIC AN GARMENT CUTTER SINGLE BREASTED VEST, NO COLLAR The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: Scye depth, 9 inches Breast, 36 inches Waist length, 17 inches Waist, 32 inches Strap, 12 inches To opening, 12^ inches Blade, ui inches Full length. _sA inches The blade measure in all vests should be cut A inch smaller than in the coat, the vest having but three seams, while the coat has five, therefore A inch less. Square line A — O and A — D. A to B is 9 inches; A to C is 17 inches; C to D is 3A inches. Square out from B and C. C to U is ^ inch. Draw a line from U to E. From the line just made at B to F, half of full breast, is 18 niches. From F to <1 is 2 inches. Square down from G. H is half way between 1! and F. H to I is 3 inches. Square down from I. Apply the blade measure from B to 1, \ inch less than the blade measure 12 inches. Square up from 1. I to J is \ the distance from A to B. Square up from J. M is half way between B and 1. M to X is \ inch. Square up from N. A. to O is :'| inch more than A, breast. Square up from < ). O to P is A inch. Measure distance A to I'. apply to I and up to EC, i_> inches net. Draw a line from K to E to get Q. Draw a line from O to Q. K to R is J inch less than P to Q. Shape the back shoulder and armscye, dropping the armscye A inch below Y and A inch inside of line I. From S to T is A the waist measure. Square forward from K. K t<> _' is |'inch more than ,' ; breast Draw a line from 2 to < r. K to L is I inch. K to V is the same as A to P. Measure the opening from V, 12 plus | inch, and to 7, JsA plus 1} inches, for make-up. jd'l inches. From T 1 . > X is 1 inch more than A waist; from U to \Y is the same. V is half way between B and ( i. Finish as represented. THE A M E R I C A N G ARM E X T C U T T ER 11? Single Breasted Vest — No Coi i \i; 118 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER SINGLE BREASTED VEST WITH NOTCH COLLAR The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: Scye depth, 9 inches Breast, 36 inches Waist length, 17 inches Waist, t> 2 inches Strap, 12 inches To opening, 12^ inches Blade, 12^ inches Full length, 25^ inches The blade measure in all vests should be cut £ inch smaller than in coat, the vest having but three seams while the coat has five, therefore A inch less. Square line A — O and A — D. A to B is 9 inches; A to C is 17 inches; C to D is 3 .', inches. Square out from B and C. C to U is f inch. Draw a line from U to E. From line just made at B to F is half of full breast, 18 inches. From F to G is 2 inches. Square down from G. H is half way between I! ami F. H to I is 3 inches. Square down from I. Apply the blade measure from B to I, A inch less than the blade measure, 12 inches. Square up in un I. I to J is ;'; the distance from A to B. Square up from J. M is half way between B and 1. M to N is -h inch. Square up from N. A to ( ) is f inch nmre than i breast. Square up from O. O to P is \ inch. Measure distance A to P, apply to 1 and up to K, 12 inches net. Draw a line from K to E to get Q. Draw a line from O to Q. K to R is ] inch less than P to Q. Shape the back, shoulder and armscye, dropping the armscye i inch below and ^ inch inside of line I. From S to T is £ waist. Square forward from K. K to V is I inch mure than ,', breast. Draw a line from \ to G. K to L is 2 inch. Measure the opening from A to P and K. to G, 12 plus f inch for opening; and to Z 25^ plus 1 j inches for make-up, 26| inches. From T to X is 1 inch more than -\ waist. l ; ii mi I' in W is 1 inch more than \ waist. Y is half way between I', and ( ]. Finish as represented. THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 11'.) Single Breasted Vest, With N : o ■ h ii.i.ak 1*20 THE AMERICAN G A R M E N 1 C U T T E fi SINGLE BREASTED VEST WITH NOTCH COLLAR For Stout Figure The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows Scye depth, Waist length, Strap, Blade, 9^ inches I j inches 13 inches 13^ inches Breast, Waist, To opening, Full length, 40 inches 40 inches 12^ inches 27 inches Square lines A — O and A — D. A to B is scye depth 9 J inches; A to C is 17 inches; C to D it. 3* inches. Square out from B and C. E is half way between A and B. From C to U is I inch. Draw a line from U to E. From line just made at B to F is half of full breast, 20 inches. F to G is 2 inches. H is half way between B and F. II to I is 3 inches. Square down from I to get S. From S to T is i waist. Square down from T. Apply the blade measure from B to 1, less \ inch, 13 inches. Square up from I. 1 to J is : \ the distance from A to B. Square up from J. M is half way between B and I. M to N is { inch. Square up from N. A to O is I inch more than ^ breast. Square up from O. O to P is h inch. Measure distance A to P, apply to I and up to K, strap measure net. Draw a line from K to E to get Q. Draw a line from O to O. From K to R is ', inch less than P to Q. Shape the back, shoulder and armscye, dropping the armscye i inch below V am inside of I. Square forward from K. K to V is i inch more than > breast. Draw a line from V to G. K to L is f inch. Measure distance A to P, apply to K and ( i. opening plus f inch. I (own to Z full length plus 1 j inches. From T to X is 1 inch more than h waist. From U to W is 1 inch more than h waist. Y is half way between B and G. Shape the front and bottom of vest. The pocket is 5 inches from and parallel with bottom of front. tut the pocket open and crease over \ inch as from 1 t>> J. See diagram 7. inch THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 121 Single Breasted Vest With Notch Collar For Stout Figure 122 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER Front of corpulent man's vest after "V" has been taken out at the pocket. Sec 1 >iagram 7. THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 123 1 )IAGRAM / 124 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 40 inches 42 inches 14 inches 28 inches SINGLE BREASTED VEST, NOTCH COLLAR For Corpulent Figure The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: Depth of scye, g\ inches Breast, Waist length, vjk inches Waist, Strap, 13 inches To opening, Blade, 13^ inches Full length, Square lines A — D and A — S. ■ A to B is oi inches; A to C is \j\ inches; C to D is 3^ inches. Square out from B and C; E is half way between A and B. C to F is \ inch. Draw a line from E to F. From line just made at 1! to G is half of lull breast, jo inches. J is half way between B and G. J to K is 3 inches. Square down from K. For every inch that the waist is larger than the breast advance \ from K to L; in this ase the waist being 2 inches larger than the breast the distance from K to L is ^ inch. Square down from L. apply the blade measure from B to K 13 inches, advance the extra half inch from K to L. L to M is \ the distance from A to B. Square up from M. G to H is the same as K to L, ^ inch. H to f is 2 inches. Q is bait way between 1'. and K. Q to R is \ inch. Square up from R. A to S is ;| inch more than \ breast. S to T is \ inch. Measure distance A to 1 . apply to L and up to X, strap measure, 13 inches net. Draw a line from N to E to get U. Draw a line from S to U. N to 3 is \ inch less than T to (J. Shape back, shoulder, and armscye, dr< >pping the armscye \ inch below V and \ inch in- side of line L. From W to X is \ waist. Square down from X. Square forward from X. X to 1' is \ inch more than \ breast. X to O is \ inch. Shape the front. At V take out \ inch that has been advanced from G to H. From X to 3 is 1 inch more than \ waist. From X to V is the same. Measure distance A id T, apply to X and dow 11 to I, opening, phis \ inch. Mown to /.. full length. 28 inches plus 1 | inch, 20) inches, Finish sides and bottom. The pi nke! is 5 inches above and parallel with bottom of front. Gut in the pocket and double over \ inch between 1 and 2. See diagram 7. THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 125 Single Breasted Vest With Notch Collae For Corpulent Figure 126 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FULL DRESS VEST, SHAWL COLLAR The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: Scye depth, gi inches Blade. 13 inches Waist length, 17 inches Breast. 38 inches Strap, [2| inches Waist. 34 inches Full length, 26 inches Square lines A — O and A — D. A to B is scye depth, 94 inches; A to C is 17 inches; C to D is 3^ inches. E is half way between A and B. Square out from B and C. C to V is I inch. Draw a line from E to U. From the line just made at B to E is half of full breast, 19 inches. F to G is 2 inches. Square down from G. H is half way between B and F; H to I is 3 inches; square down from I. \]>ply the blade measure from B to I, 13 less J inch, u.] inches. I to J is .', the distance from A to B. Square up from J. M is half way between 1! and 1. M to X is !, inch. Square up from N. A to O is f inch more than J breast. Square up from O. O to P is | inch. Measure distance from A to P, apply to 1 and up to K, strap measure, u'l inches. Draw a line from K to E to get 0. Draw a line from O to Q. From K to R is \ inch less than P to O. Shape the hack, shoulder and armscye, dropping the armscye \ inch at Y and h inch in- side of line I. Square forward from K. From K to V is \ inch more than ]. of breast measure. Draw a line from V to < \. From K to L is ;] inch. From S to T is | waist measure. Square down from T. Measure back A to I', apply to K and down to I" for opening and down to Z, for full length plus I \ inches. Draw a line from 1\ to Z. Shape gorge and front edge. Fn 'in S to X is ] inch. U ii' W is 1 inch more than \ waist. Y is half way between B and G. Finish as represented. THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 127 Single Breasted Full Dress Vest Shawl Collar 1-28 THE AM ERIC A N G A R M E N T C U T T E R Blade, 13 inches Breast, 38 inches Waist, 34 inches DOUBLE BREASTED FULL DRESS VEST, SHAWL COLLAR Scye depth, <).', inches Waist length, 17 inches Strap, 12] inches Full length, 26 inches Square lines A — C and A — N. A to B is scye depth, q\ inches; A to C is 17 inches; C to 2 is 3.' inches. D is half way between A and B. Square out from B and C. C to V is I inch. Draw a line from V to D. From the line just made at B to E is half of full breast, to inches. From E to F is i\ inches. ( i is half way between 1! and E. < '■ to 1 1 is 3 inches. Square down from H. Apply the blade measure from the line inside of 1! to II, 12A inches. Square up from H. H to I is ..'. the distance from A to I!. Square up from I. K is half way between B and 11. I\ to Lis \ inch. Square up from L. \ to X is : ; inch more than i breast. Square up from N. N to O is \ inch. Measure distance A to * ), apply to 11 and up to J, strap measure u : { inches. Draw a line from J to D to get M. Draw a line from X to M. From J to P is j inch less than ( ) to M. Shape the back, shoulder and armscye, dropping the armscye \ inch below W and \ inch inside 1 if line I I . From Q to R is .', inch less than }, waist. I )raw a line from F through R to S. From R to T is 3 | inches. From S to U is 2 inches. I )raw a line from T to U. Square out from J. From J to I is ' breast. From J to Z is \ inch. I (raw a line from J to S. Shape the gorge and the front edge. From Q to X is 1 inch. From V to Y is 1 inch more than .', waist. \\ is half way between I! and F. Shape the sides and finish bottom as represented, THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 129 Double Breasted Full Dress Vest Shawl Collar 130 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER DOUBLE BREASTED VEST, NO COLLAR The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: Scye depth, <)\ inches Breast, 38 inches Waist length, 17 inches Waist, 34 inches Strap, ij'i' inches To opening, i-2-J inches Blade, 13 inches Full length, jf> inches Square lines A — C and A — N. A to D is scye depth. g\ inches; A to B is waist length. 17 inches; B to C is 3 1 inches. Square out from D and B. 3 is half way between A and D. B to V is % of an inch. Draw a line from 3 to V. From the line just made at D to E is half of full breast 10 inches. E to F is 1 1 inches. G is half way between D and E. G to H is 3 inches. Square down from H. Apply blade measure from D to H, i2-\ inches. Square up from H. FI to 1 is .', the distance from A to D. Square up from F K is half way between D and IT. K to L is i inch. Square up from F. A to N is f inch more than -J breast. Square up from N. N to O is i inch. Measure distance A to C). apply to H and up to J. strap measure. I2| inches. Draw a line from J to 3 to get M. Draw a line from N to M. J to P is \ inch less than O to M. Shape back, shoulder and armscye. Square forward from J. J to 2 is ,\ breast. J to L is \ inch. to R is \ inch less than \ waist. R to T is 3i inches. Draw a line from 2 to F. Draw a line from F through R to S. The distance from S to U is 2] inches. Draw a lint- from I" through T. Measure distance A to O, apply to J and down to opening, 12', inches plus \ inch, 13} inches, down in S is 26 plus 1 [ inches. 27J inches. From Q to X is 1 inch. Y to Y is 1 inch more than !, waist. 1 >raw a line from J through opening and finish as represented. THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 131 I Iouble Breasted Vest, No Collar 132 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER DOUBLE BREASTED VEST, PEAKED LAPEL The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: Scye depth, 9^ inches Breast, 38 inches Waist length, 17 inches Waist, 34 inches Strap, I2j inches To opening, I2i inches Blade, 13 inches Full length, 26 inches Square lines A — C and A — N. A to D is scye depth, 9^ inches; A to B is waist, 17 inches; B to C is 3! inches. Square out from D and B. 3 is half way between A and D. B to V is § of an inch. Draw a line from 3 to V. From the line just made at D to E is half of full breast, 19 inches. E to F is if inches. (i is half way between D and E. G to H is 3 inches. Square down from H. Apply blade measure from D to H, 12A inches. Square up from H. H to I is •* the distance from \ to D. Square up from I. K is half way between B and H. K to L is i inch. Square up from L. A to N is f inch more than | breast. Square up from N. N to O is ^ inch. Measure distance A to < K apply to II and up to J, strap measure, I2f inches. Draw a line from J to 3 to get M. Draw a line N to M. J to P is } inch less than O to M. Shape back, shoulder and armscye. Square forward from J. J to 2 is }., breast. Draw a line from 2 to F. J to Z is | inch Q to R is { inch less than i waist. Draw a line from F through R to S. Shape front. THE REVER Draw a straight line parallel with F — R. Make (he width of the rever from R to T, 3^ inches, and from U to S 2\ inches. Draw a line from U to T, measure the distance A to O, apply to J and down to opening \2\ inches plus jj inch, 13J inches, then down to S, 20 inches plus 1 } inches, 2"]\ inches. From O to X is 1 inch. V to Y is 1 inch more than h waist. Draw a line from 1 through opening and finish as represented. THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 133 Double Breasted Vest, Peaked Lapel 134 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER CLERICAL VEST, BUTTONED ON THE SIDE The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: Scye depth, 9^ inches Breast. 38 inches Waist length, 17 inches Waist, 34 inches Strap, I2f inches Full length, 26 inches Blade, 13 inches Square lines A — O and A — D. A to B is scye depth, 9^ inches; A to C is waist, 17 inches; C to D is 3! inches. E is half way between A and B. Square out from B and C. C to U is § inch. Draw a line from E to U. From the line just made at B to F is half of full breast, [9 inches. F to G is if inches. Square down from < i. H is half way between B and E. H to 1 is 3 inches. Square down from 1. Apply blade measure from line inside of B to I, ul inches. Square up from 1. 1 to J is £ the distance from A to B. Square up from J. M is half way between B and I. M to N is ^ inch. A to O is % inch more than I breast. Square up from < ). O to P is ^ inch. Measure distance A to P, apply to 1 and up to K, strap measure, i_>;] inches. Draw a line from K to E to get 0. Draw a line from to O. From K to R is ] inch less than from P to O. K to 2 is \ breast. Square forward from 2 by 3. Shape gorge, shoulder and armscye, dropping the armscve \ inch at V and \ inch inside of line I. Iv to L is \ inch more than }■ breast. Draw a line from L to G. From S to T is j inch less than \ waist. S to X is 1 inch. From U to \\* is 1 inch more than \ waist. Measure back A to I'. apply to K and down to Z, full length. _'d inches plus 1 [ inches. _>7] inches. After the vest is cut, an extra piece of cloth is cut as per dotted line for a button stand, and is to he sewed on to the back on the right side, to be buttoned over from the left side. The buttonholes are to be on the front, and the buttons on the extra piece. These vests are usually cut with a standing collar to conn' about \ inch apart in front. THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 135 Clerical Vest 136 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER Seat, 38 inches Knee, i8i inches Bottom, 16 inches TROUSERS The measurements by which these drafts arc produced arc as follows: Outside length, 42 inches Inside length, 32 inches Waist, $$ inches Square lines A — B and A — J. A to B is the outside length, 42 inches. B to C is inside length, 32 inches. D is 2 inches more than half way between B and C. Square out lines B, C and D. C to E is h. seat measure. E to F is \ seat measure. G is half way between C and F. B to H is the same as C to G. Draw aline from II through G to I. Square up from E to establish J. Draw lines \ inch in and { inch out from E to J. F back to Z is § inch; E to V is \ seat. H to M is l of the bottom. H to L is \ inch less than from ] bottom. P to O and P to N are ] knee each. Draw a line from M through to Z. Draw a line from L to N and up to C. J to K is I waist; finish forepart as represented, hollowing the bottom 1 inch at H. THE BACK PART Extend lines L— M, N— O, C— Z, and G— 1. From I to X is ^ of an inch less than {■ seat. Sweep from K to V, pivoting at L. Sweep from C to \Y, pivoting at N. From X to V is 2 inches more than ^ waist. From C u > \Y is 1 \ inches. From F to U is 1^ inches. Draw lines from X to Y, from X to V and from Y to \V. M to T is 2 inch more than i bottom. From L to S is the same. From O to R is \ inch. From N to Q is the same. Finish hack part, taking out \ inch V and dropping \ inch below U. These trousers may also be cut by a thigh measure. The thigh measure is to be taken close, but not tight on the undress side. If, for in- stance, the thigh measure is 23 inches, and using the same measurements as in the last draft, pr< iceed as follows: From C to F is i the seat measure. From C to Z is \ the thigh measure, 1 1 \ inches. Fn mi /. to 1'" is I of an inch. G is half way between C and F. Square up from E. And make the rest of the diagram as the last. It will readily be seen how the line I — II is thrown cither forward or backward, accord- ing to the thigh measure. THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 137 Trousers 138 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER PEG TOP TROUSERS The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: Outside length, 42 inches Seat, 40 inches Inside length, 32 inches Thigh, 26^ inches Waist, 34 inches Bottom, 16 inches The knee measure may be taken or may be left out, as desired. Square lines A — B and A — J. A to B is the outside length, 42 inches. B to C is inside length, 32 inches. D is 2 inches more than half way between B and C. Square out from B, C and D. C to E is half of seat measure; E to F is \ of seat measure. G is half way between C and F; B to H is the same as C to G. Draw a line from H through G to I. Square up from E to establish J. Draw lines \ inch in and ] inch out from E to J. E to V is J of seat measure. H to M is I of the bottom; H to L is i inch less than j of bottom. Draw a line from M to Z to establish O. Draw a line from L to C to establish N. /. is I of an inch back from I''; from Z to 3 is h of the thigh, 13! inches. J to K is -i waist. Finish forepart as represented. THE HACK PART Extend lines M— L, O— N, C— Z, J— K and G— I. 1 to \ is : ^ inch less than ,', of scat measure; X to Y is \ waist, plus 1 inch. 3 to W is \\ inches; F to U is l\ inches. From M to T is }, inch more than ^ of bottom; from L to S is the same. to R is I inch; X to Q is the same. Finish back part, dropping jj inch at U. THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 139 L T Peg Top Trousers 140 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER SPRING BOTTOM TROUSERS The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: Outside length, 43 inches Knee, 19 inches Inside length, 32 inches Bottom, 19 inches Waist, 38 inches Hip, 40 inches Seat, 40 inches When a person is inclined to be corpulent it is best to take a hip measure about three inches below the waist. A to B is outside length, 43 inches. B to C is inside length, 32 inches. D is 2 inches more than half way between B and C. A to 3 is 3 inches. Square out from 3, C, D and B. From C to E is \ seat. E to F is £ seat. G is half way between C and F. B to H is the same as C to G. Draw a line from II through G to I. In the Springdjottom trousers the forepart must be small at the bottom. From II to M is 4^ inches. H to L is 4 inches. P to O is I of the knee and P to N is the same. Draw lines from L to N and from M to O. Extend line from O to Z and from N to C. Square up from E to get 2. From 2 to K is I waist. However, the distance between K and A must never be less than 1 inch. In this case, where the waist is only 2 inches smaller than the seat, the distance from K tti A would be \ inch. We will therefore make it one inch and measure waist from K to I, 9! inches. From 2 to J is the same distance as from 1 to 2. Shape the side from K to C. From 3 to 4 is \ inch more than \ hip. Draw a line from J to K, and finish as represented. THE BACK PART Extend lines L— M, N— O, C— Z and G— I. Sweep from C to W, pivoting at N. Sweep from K to Y, pivoting at L. [ to X is I inch less than \ seat. 7. to W is \\ inches. F to U is \\ inches. L to S is \ inch more than \ bottom. M to T is the same. N to O is \ inch. O to R is the same. From X to Y is 2 inches more than \ waist. 1 )raw lines from X to V, from X to Y, and from Y to W. Finish back part, taking out \ inch V at the waist and dropping § inch at U. THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 141 M L T Spring Bottom Trousers • 43 mches 3 J inches 4-' inches 44 inches and A- -B. 142 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER TROUSERS FOR CORPULENT FIGURE The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: Outside length, 43 inches Seat, 42 inches Inside length, 32 inches Knee. 20 inches Waist. 42 inches Bottom, 17 inches Hip, Scpiare lines A- A to B is outside length, 43 inches; I'. to C is inside length, $2 inches. I ) is 2 inches more than half way between I! and t . A to 3 is 3 inches. Square out from 3. C, D and B. C to E is 4 seat. E to F is T i seat, t , is half way between C and F. IS to H is the same as C to G. Draw a line from H through G to 1. H to M is J bottom. H to L is \ inch less than \ bottom. P to O and P to N are \ knee each. Draw lines from M to O and from L to N. Extend lines from O to Z and from N to C. Square up from E. At E go ] inch out and \ inch in; draw lines up to 2. From 2 to K is \ waist. But the distance from A to K must be no less than 1 inch, We will therefore make the distance from A to K 1 inch and measure from K to 1 half ofthe waist. From 2 to J is the same distance as from 2 to 1. Shape the side from K to C. From 3 to 4 is \ inch more than | hip. Draw a line from J to K and shape the front through I and 4 to F. Finish forepart, hollowing 1 inch at H. THE BACK PART Extend lines M— L, O— N, C— F and G— L [ to X is I inch less than \ seat. Sweep from C to W, pivoting at N. Sweep from K to Y. pivoting at L. From X to V is 1 inch more than \ waist. From C to W is 1 !, inches. From F to U is iA inches. Draw lines from X to V, from X to Y and from Y to W. L to S is ', inch more than \ bottom. M to T is the same. X to Q and < ) to R are \ inch each. Finish hack part as represented, dropping it i| inch at U. In trousers where the waist is as large as the seat it is not necessary to take the V out at I he w aist. THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER H3 Corpulent Man's Trousers 144 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER TROUSERS FOR A BOW-LEGGED PERSON. I R After the measures have been taken as usual, ascertain the amount that the legs are bowed, by having the person stand with both feet together. Draft viuir forepart according- ly. If the bow be two inches, cut in the fore- part as from R to N and at 2. From R to I is i inch. From 2 to 3 is J inch. Pin the pattern over figure 2 on the figure 3 and letter R to figure 1, after which place them on a clean sheet of paper. (See Diagram II.) Straighten out the inseam and measure the length from F to M so that you get the proper length. Now cut the back part accord- ingly. (See Diagram III.) If the bow lie 1 inch, then it is not necessary to cut it in two places, -J inch between 2 and 3 will be sufficient. THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 145 After Being Siiortejs'ed in Seam 146 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER TROUSERS FOR KNOCK-KNEED PERSON These trousers are cut just opposite to the trousers for a bow legged man. They are cut open as from N to O. From N to i is £ inch or as much more as may be necessary. Lap the pattern over as from N to i and cut the back part accordingly. THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 147 Trousers for Knock-Kneed Man 148 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER Narrow Falls The pattern for the trousers having been cut, proceed as follows: 1 is half way between J and K. B to (i is the same distance as from I to K. From I to G is 8 indies, or I inch below the pocket as from B. Add i inch from _• to 3 and J to 4. The waist-band for these trousers is cut separately. A welt is sewed on as from 1 to G and the fly that is added is sewed on underneath part of the forepart marked B — K. THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 149 Broad Falls to A. After the forepart has been cut out, proceed as follows: Lay the pattern on the paper and mark as from K to J, to 2, an From K to A is 8 inches, or A is i inch below the pocket. From j to 2 is 2 inches. From J to 4 and 2 to 3 is I inch for buttons and button-holes. The waist-band may be added to the piece or may be cut separately 150 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER RIDING BREECHES WITH EXTENSION The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: Outside length, 35^ inches Knee, 16^ inches Inside length, 25 inches Small of knee, 13^ inches To knee, 22 inches Calf, 15 inches Waist, 35 inches Ankle, 12 inches Seat, 40 inches Square lines A — E and A — J. A to B is 22 plus 1^ inches, 23^ inches. B to C is 2\ inches; C to D is 4 inches; A to E is 36! inches. E to F is inseam, 26^ inches. Square out from F, B, C, D and E. F to G is I seat. G to H is \ inch more than \ seat measure. H to S is f inch. Square up and down from G to establish 7 and J. Draw a line from S through L to M. Square down from M. From M to N is \ inch more than \ of small of knee. Square down from N. P to Q is I inch more than \ calf. to R is \ inch more than \ ankle. Draw a line from F to N ; F to T is 1 inch. J to W is \ waist. Shape side seam, and finish as represented. THE BACK PART Extend lines I— U, Y— Z, B— L, 8—5, 9—6 and E— 7. R to 7 is I inch; Q to 6 is \ inch; M to 5 is \ inch. II to Z is 2 inches; T to Y is 2 inches; G to 11 is \ seat. U to V is 4 inches; V to X is \ waist plus 1 inch. Draw a line from V to II. Draw a line from Z to 5. -Measure ankle 1\ to O and 7 to 10, 12 inches, and 2 inches for the V and seams. Q to P and 6 to 9 calf, plus £ inch. M to N and 5 to 8, small of knee plus \ inch. 1 is half way between O and R. Square up from 1 to 2. 1 to 3 and 1 to 4 are \ inch each. Cut out V on back part. Finish as represented. THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 151 Riding Breeches with Extension 162 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER Waist, 34 inches Seat, 40 inches Knee, 21 inches 2.\ inches GOLF OR BICYCLE TROUSERS. Outside length to the knee, 24 inches Full length, 31 inches Inseam, 21 inches Ankle, Square lines A — B and A — J. A to B is full length. B to C is inseam. A to 14 is length to knee. 14 to D is 1^ inches. Square out from C, 14, D and B. C to E is \ seat. E to F is \ inch more than \ seat. G is half way between C and V . B to H is the same as C to G. Draw a line from H through G to I. P to N and P to O are \ knee each. Draw a line from N to C and from to Z. 3 is half way between 4 and 11. 2 is half way between T and II. From 2 to L is \ bottom. From 2 to 5 is ] inch more than \ ankle. From 3 to M is \ ankle. From 3 to 6 is \ inch more than J ankle. Shape the bottom of forepart from O to M, from P to 6 and 5 and from N to L. Take out a V between 6 and 5 as marked. Square up from E to J. Mark \ inch in and \ inch out from E to J. J to K is J waist. C to 1 is 1 inch. Finish forepart as represented. THE BACK I 'ART Extend lines L— M, N— O, C— Z and I— K. Draw a line from G and from I to X; I to X is \ seat. Draw a line from X to V. X to Y is 1 inch more than \ waist. 1 to W is \\ inches. F to U is \\ inches. ( ) to R and N t<» Q are \ inch each. M to S and L to T are \ inch each. Cut out V from back part as P — 5 — 6 and finish back part as represented, dropping it % inch at LI. The cuff is 12] inches wide; allow 1 j- inches for make-up and 5 inches deep, to be fin- ished w ith 5 buttons. THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTE 153 Bicycle or Golf Trousers 154 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER MILITARY CAPE Square lines A — B — C. Place the back of an overcoat pattern of the size required to touch line A — B. Place the forepart to touch line A — C with the shoulder touching at M — P. .Mark around the back at D — E — M and the front at P — U around the gorge and front edge. From E to F is I inch. From P to T is i^ inches. From U to S is i inch. From T to N is i inch. Draw lines from S to N and from F to N. Sweep from B to C, pivoting at S. Flatten the bottom and hollow shoulder as represented. THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 155 Military Cape 156 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER SHOULDER CAPE. Draw a line and place the back of an overcoat pattern of the size required, the center seam to touch at A — C. B is the breast line. Mark around the back as at A — H — D. From B to D is ^ breast. From D to E is ^ breast. Draw a line from H through E to I. From I to J is I inch. From F to G is ^ inch. Shape the back from G through H through E to J. From A to C is the length required. From G to J is 3 inches more than from A to C. Finish the bottom as represented. THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 157 Shoulder Cape 158 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER THE SHOULDER CAPE— Continued THE FOREPART Place the forepart of an overcoat pattern of the size required on a sheet of paper and mark around it as per dotted lines. M — X is the breast line. From X to K is 4^ inches, or the addition to the breast of a single breasted overcoat. From K to L is £ breast. From L to M is ^ breast. From R to S is ^ inch. t From N to Q is ^ breast. From N to O is 1 inch. Sweep from O to P, pivoting at Q. From N to P is 1 inch. Draw lines from O to Q and from P to Q. Draw a straight line from P through M to U. From U to V is 1 inch. Draw a line from V to M. Shape the shoulder from S to O, and the side from P to Y. rounding it | inch over M. From X to Y is 2 inches. From Z to W is the same. From S to T is 1 inch. From S to O and from P to V is the same as from G to J on the back part. Sweep from V to W, pivoting at T. Finish as represented. THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 159 The Shoulder Cape 160 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER A FEW REMARKS ABOUT MAKING COATS. The Canvas. — The canvas and hair cloth should always be cut on the bias. SACK COATS Sack Coats. — In sewing up the side seams hold the back easy over the blade, straight to about 3 inches below the waist, and a trifle short over the hip. The Shoulders.— The front shoulder may be slightly stretched from the middle of it, to the shoulder point and the back held easy over the same parts, but never stretch it for a stout person. The Edges. — Always dip the stay tape in water and press before using it. When bast- ing stay tape on the front edge, hold it short over the breast, and work the front edge in, so that the roundness of the breast is pressed in to the middle of the front and the edge becomes straight. For a stout person, hold the stay tape short over the most prominent rounding, which is over the waist. In all straight front coats, such as over coats, double breasted sacks, or straight front sacks, the front edges must be worked in until they are straight. The Sleeves. — In sewing up the front seams always begin at the top, and, basting on the upper sleeve, keep both upper and under sleeves ev.en for about 3 inches; from there down hold the upper sleeve a little short to about 3 inches from the bottom, and from there down hold them even. When sewing up the back seam, begin also on top, and basting on the upper sleeve, keep them both even to the elbow, over the roundness of the elbow hold the upper sleeve easy, and from there down even. Before basting in the sleeves straighten out the armscye, and take a linen thread, draw- in the back part of the armscye from the shoulder seam to about ii inches below the side seam, and press the fullness away so as to leave a pocket over the blade bone. When basting in the sleeve, begin with the right one and placing the seam of the sleeve • to the nick of the back hold it even to about I inch beyond the shoulder seam, from there on full the sleeve in until the front nick of the sleeve reaches the nick of the front; from there hold the sleeve even until you reach the part of the armscye that is drawn in with the linen thread and full the under sleeve in over it. The Collar. — Collars are to lie put in easy in the hollow of the gorge for normal or slim persons. A concave shoulder needs a longer collar than a normal shoulder. A stout person needs a shorter collar than a normal person. In either case, don't stretch the collar stand. HE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 161 FROCKS In basting the side body to the front, always begin and keep them even at the armscye and hold the side body a little short at the waist. THE SKIRT. After the side seam and fish are sewed and pressed i ipen, baste a piece of stay tape to the bottom, or the waist seam of the side body, so as to prevent it from stretching, after which baste the skirt on, beginning at the side, hold the skirt and side body even to the side seam; from there on for about 4 inches hold the skirt full, and from there on even to the front. In sewing the back to the side body, begin at the armscye and keep both back and side body even to about 4 inches from the waist; from there down full the back in about \ or § inch; don't stretch the side body until after the hack is sewed on to it, and then only just enough to make the hack seam straight. Shrink in the side body half way. THE PLEATS. The proper way to make the pleats is to put a baste in J inch or a seam back from the mark stitch, and press the roundness of the skirt in until the pleat is straight, press it open as if it were a seam. Pull the baste out audit is ready to be joined to the back. The shoulder, collar and sleeves are the same as in the sack coats. In double breasted frocks or dress coats all the seams are joined the same as the single breasted coats, except that the rever is held short over the breast and the bell shape skirt needs but little fullness at the waist. VESTS. All vests cut by this system need no collar stand, as the stand is cut on the vest. The Edges.— All the front edges are to be made straight with the stay tape, i. e., they are to be worked in until the edge is straight and the fullness pressed in to the middle of the front. The Shoulders. — The shoulders ought to be stretched slightly and the back held full over them. The collar, if there be one. should be held easy to about 3 inches from the shoulder and from there held short to about 2 inches from the front edge. Double breasted vests, with or without collar, or dress vests with low openings should have stay tape laid around the opening and held short so as to prevent the edge sticking away from the shirt front. Double breasted vests, and double breasted coats must have more breast worked in them than single breasted vests or coats. TROUSERS. Avoid stretching trousers, except the inseam of the back part from the knee to the crotch, and that only \ inch. Any stretching on the forepart is sure to spoil them. Let the notches come together evenly; hold the forepart easy over the knee and the back part hold easv over the calf. Peg top trousers should have the roundness from over the hip pressed in to the back. Let the fore part be held easy over the back part from the hip to the knee. Waist bands should be held a little short 'over the fore part, easy in hollow of the waist and even from there back. , . . The right fly should be held easy in the hollow of the crotch. Let all the shaping be done by shrinking. Do not stretch. INDEX Introduction 3 Preface 5 The Measurement of the Human Body '. 7 How to Measure 8 Vest Measurements 14 Trousers Measurements 16 The Square lfi Single Breasted Sack Coat 18 Actual Measurements Will Show Figure 2fi Three Button Sack '. 36 Straight Front Sack— Straight Back 38 Four Button Military Sack With or Without Exaggerated Shoulder 40 How to Cut a Concave Shoulder 42 Three Button Double Breasted Sack 44 Four Button Sack (For Stout Figure) 46 Four Button Sack (For Corpulent Fiuure) 4S Three Button Cutaway Frock 52 One Button Cutaway Frock 54 English Walking Coat 56 Three Button Frock (For Stout Figure) 5S Three Button Frock (For Corpulent Figure) 60 Single Breasted Frock (Straight Front) 62 Three Button Double Breasted Frock 64 Three Button Double Breasted Frock (For Stout Figure) 66 Three Button Double Breasted Frock (For Corpulent Figure) 68 Tuxedo Coat 70 Tuxedo Coat (Peaked Lapel) 72 Full Dress Coat (Peaked Lapel) 76 Full Dress Coat (Shawl < 'oi.i.ari 74 A Few Words in Regard to Waist Suppression 78 Full Breast — Flat Back so < 'iiestereield Overcoat 84 Top Coat 86 Full Box i Ivekcoat 88 Inverness 90 Double Breasted Ulster 92 Single Breasted Frock Overcoat 94 Double Breasted Frock Overcoat 96 Single Breasted Paletot 98 Single Breasted Paddock 100 Double Breasted Paddock 102 Measuring a Hunchback 104 Straight Front Sack for Hunchback 106 Cassock Coat 108 The Sleeve 110 Half and Half Sleeve 112 Sleeve for Box Overcoat 114 Single Breasted Vest (No Collar) 116 Single Breasted Vest with Notch Collar 118 Single Br east el Vest, Notch Collar (For Stout Figure) 120 I !re \ st ei i Vest, Notch Collar (For Corpulent Figure) 124 Full Dress Vest (Shawl Collar) 126 Double Breasted Full Dress Vest (Shawl Collar) 12S i ile Breasted Vest (No Collar) 130 Double Breasted Vest, (Peaked Lapel) 132 i Clerical Vest (Buttoned on Side) 134 :i;s 136 Peg Top Trousers 138 Spring Bottom Trousers 140 Trousers for Corpulent Figure 142 Trousers for Bow-Legged Person 144 Trousers for Knock-Kneed Person Hi; Narrow Falls 14S Broad Falls 149 Riding Breeches with Extension 150 ib Bicycle Trousers 152 Military < 'ape 154 ii er i 'ate 156 A Feu Remarks About Making Coats 160 flMibliebers ot AMERICAN GENTLEMAN Men's Fashions. EDITION DE LUXE Magnificent Art Plates of Men's Fashions AMERICAN ALBUM OP FUR NOVELTIES The Authority on Fur Fashions $20.00 A VE«R LES PARISIENNES The Acknowledged Authority on "Tailor Made" Styles $20.00 A YEAR AMERICAN CLOAK ALBUM Cloaks, Suits, Etc. $50.00 A YEAR AMERICAN SKIRT ALBUM $25.00 A YEAR SHIRTWAIST SUITS 120 Designs Yearly $25.00 A YEAR AMERICAN WAIST ALBUM for Manufacturers $25.00 A YEAR AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER Men's Garments AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER Women's Garments OTH BOUND. COMPLETE $25.00 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER Women's Skirts Cable BJS>rc8ec«: CLOTH BOU PLETE $10.1 AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER For Furriers OTH BOUND, COMPLETE $25. PICTORIAL REVIEW Puree Magazines in One .iterary. Fashion, Home $1.00 PER YEAR GARMENT CUTTING AND DESIGNING SCHOOL The Simplest and Most Populai System Taught PATTERN DEPARTMENT Patterns Unequaled in Style and Fit, Cut to Order TYPOGRAPHICAL DEPT. For Catalogues and Advertising Specialties ENGRAVING and ELECTROTYPING Telephone 37^ [ QRAMERCY WM. P. AHNELT, PRES. <. TREAB. CHAS. W. NELSON, 1ST vice-phes. WM. O. FREYER, 2ND vice-PRES. LEON LEWIN, SECRETARY Antmran ifeljinn (Sin. [INCORPORATED] ESTABLISHED 18QO Designers and Publishers of Fashions 853 Broadway Corner of 14th Street NEW YORK CHICAGO. 158-164 STATE STREET European Branches : PARIS : 14 Rue Taitbout BERLIN : Leipzigxr Strasse 90 LONDON: 203 Regent Street AM ERIC AN GENTLEMAN Is the Leading 1 High=CIass Practical Tailors' Journal of the World .... SUBSCRIPTION $7.SO PER AININUM : : : WHICH INCLUDES : : : : EIGHT LARGE JOURNALS cram full of the best and latest sartorial ideas and news, profusely illustrated with fashion designs ; drafts and diagrams of all garment illustrated on plates ; Style Chats with the Leaders in the Trade, etc. SIX LARGE PANORAMAS of styles, 22x28 inches. TWENTY-FOUR TWO-FIGURE PLATES, 12^x18, all exquisitely printed in colors on royal plate paper, showing the very latest styles in Men's Garments. The Edition de Luxe of the AMERICAN GENTLEMAN is the acme of fashion publications. Magnificently embossed and printed in colors on the finest steel plate paper. C XlU'C is a production to be proud of. There are 32 of these plates issued annually, and they are works of art, suitable for the very highest class of tailors. Subscription, inducing tbe "Regular Ebition of tbe Hmertcan Gentleman witb its plates, $15.00 per annum. PUBLISHERS AMERICAN FASHION COMPANY 853 BROADWAY, NEW YORK BRANCHES AT CHICAUO: 158=164 STATE STREET PARIS : 14 Rue Taitbout LONDON: 203 Regent Street BERLIN: 90 Leipziger Strasse PATTERNS OF ALL KINDS CUT TO ORDER PROMPTLY LEARN CUTTING AT THE AMERICAN CUTTING SCHOOL Les Parisiennes Album de Luxe "Genre Tailleur" rtC CS Ipadeiennee is the leading Fashion Journal 1^ of the world devoted to the Creation of Styles for Ladies' Tailors. It is the only journal of its kind maintaining offices, each with an able staff of designers and artists, in Paris, Berlin, London and New York. Xes Iparisiennee is a well-edited trade journal devoted to the interests of Ladies' Tailors. It gives all the latest news, fashion chat, etc., of inter- est in the world of Women's Fashion. Published Monthly Subscription Price Except December and June. For One Year (lO numbers) $20.00. PUBLISHERS American Fashion Company 853 BROADWAY, NEW YORK I PARIS BERLIN LONDON CHICAGO f 14 Rue Taltbout »0 Lelpziger Strasse 203 RegttJI Street 158-164 State Street Branches at PATTERNS OF ALL KINDS CUT TO ORDER PROMPTLY LEARN CUTTING AT THE AMERICAN CUTTING SCHOOL A merican A lbum of Fflf N ovelties Thirteenth Year Cbc One Standard Authority for furriers THE DESIGNS ARE ORIGINAL : : : THE MODELS AUTHENTIC THE DIAGRAMS CORRECT : : : An absolutely correct guide to Coming Fashions and Chronicle of Fur Trade News. Published nine times a year (monthly, from March to November). Subscription $20.00 a Year Including large Artistic Season's Show Card, 22x28, magnificently printed in colors on plate paper, and 72 Exquisite Fashion Plates, 12x17, together with nine journals replete with Fur Trade News, Items, Chats with Leaders in the Trade, etc., all profusely illustrated. *»<• PUBUISMERS » * <• American Fashion Company 853 Broadway, New York. BRANCHES AT CHICAGO BERLIN LONDON PARIS 15^-164 State Street 90 Leipziger Strasse 203 Regent Street !•* Rue Taitbout PATTERNS OF ALL KINDS CUT TO ORDER PROMPTLY LEARN CUTTING AT THE AMERICAN CUTTING SCHOOL Cbe American Garment Cutter For Women — \ TLhc IRewest flllost Complete anS inp=to=E)ate TKttork on Cutting anfc ^Designing Women's Garments. ^HE "AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER" for Women is M the most complete as well as the most up-to-date work of ^* its kind ever published. It contains everything pertaining to the cutting of garments for all sizes and shapes, with illustra- tions fully explaining the workings of the system, so that anybody can see at a glance the simplicity of it. In it you will find not • only how to cut all styles of garments but also how to make them up. It is the result of years of practical experience put on paper, and we are sure that in subscribing for it you will find it the best investment that you have ever made. The diagrams will be of the same practical and superior kind as shown in " Les Parisiennes " and on which we have received many very complimentary letters. It teaches how to make up all styles of garments. The work is elaborately and substantially bound in cloth and gilt, making a very handsome volume of nearly 200 payes Price $25.00 for Complete Work. The Ar Being the skirt section of ihe above and drafting all styles of skirts, sucl skirts, riding habits, divided riding s Send for Illustrated Prospectus with Specime nerican Garment Cutter ( Women's Skirts ) work, and containing concise and complete instructions for cutting as circular skirts, 5 to 19 different gored skirts, flounce skirts, flare kirts, etc., etc. A most complete manual of the art of skirt cuttine « Pa g« Price $10.00 PUBLISHER JS American Fashion Company, 853 Broadway, New York. American Garment Cutter FOR FURRIERS The only work of the kind that is thoroughly up-to-date and thoroughly practical. A Most Complete Text = Book Containing instructions for the cutting and drafting of all kinds of Fur Garments, accompanied by concise drafts and diagrams of different kinds of Jackets, Ulsters, Dolmans, Newmarkets, Capes, Neckpieces of all sorts . . . . . . . Gentlemen's Fur Lined Coats, etc., etc. H Complete Working Manual for tbe practical furrier A large quarto volume of over one hundred pages, hand- somely bound in cloth and gold ..... Price for the Complete Work $25.00 Send for Illustrated Prospectus and Specimen Pages. American Fashion Company, F>U B UISH E RS 853 Broadway, New York. 158 164 State Street, Chicago. 14 Rue Taitbout, Paris. 90 Leipziger Strasse, Berlin. 41 Cheapside, London, E. C. LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 014 082 916 A « i nil! iipfiii^^