F 73 .5 .M27 Copy 1 ttCAN LIBRARY ASSOCIATION CONFERENCE 1921 CONDENSED GUIDE TO BOSTON AND VICINITY COMPLIMENTS OF THE BOARD OF FREE PUBLIC LIBRARY COMMISSIONERS CONDENSED GUIDE TO CERTAIN HISTORIC PLACES IN BOSTON AND VICINITY FOR THE USE OF THE MEMBERS OF THE AMERICAN LIBRARY ASSOCIATION DURING THE CONFERENCE June 20 to 27, 1921 Prepared by a Committee of the Massachusetts Library Club and Issued by the Board of Free Public Library Commissioners BOSTON WRIGHT & POTTER PRINTING CO., STATE PRINTERS 32 DERNE STREET 1921 1-73 Publication of this Document approved by the Supervisor of Administration Gift Mrs. H. h.B. Meyer Mar. 16,1937 3Uje damttumroeaitlj of MaBmti}\mtte BOARD OF FREE PUBLIC LIBRARY COMMISSIONERS DEPARTMENT OF EDUCATION DIVISION OF PUBLIC LIBRARIES Charles F. D. Belden, Director Anna M. Bancroft Elizabeth P. Sohier Edward H. Redstone Hiller C. Wellman MASSACHUSETTS LIBRARY CLUB, 1920-21 President: John G. Moulton Haverhill Vice-Presidents: Harold T. Dougherty Newton E. Kathleen Jones Boston Charles R. Green Amherst Ex-President: Katharine P. Loring Beverly Secretary: Orlando C. Davis Waltham Treasurer: George H. Evans Somerville Recorder: Frank H. Whitmore Brockton GENERAL COMMITTEE ON THE SWAMPSCOTT CONFERENCE Charles F. D. Belden, Chairman J. Randolph Coolidge, Jr. Anna M. Bancroft William C. Lane Bertha V. Hartzell Edward H. Redstone Marian P. Kirkland Frederick W. Faxon E. Louise Jones And the Executive Committee of the Massachusetts Library Club, consisting of the officers named above Index to Places Mentioned PAGE PAGE Arlington 27 Medford 48 Belmont . 47 Melrose . 48 Beverly . 25 Milton . 37, 48 Boston . . 12 Nahant . 21 Back Bay . 14 Needham . 48 West End . 17 Newton . 49 North End . 19 North Scituate . 41 Brookline . 47 Norwood . 49 Cambridge . 33 Peabody . 49 Chelsea s . 47 PljTnouth . 43 Cohasset . 41 Quincy . . 38 Concord . 29 Reading . 49 Dedham . 47 Salem . . 22 Duxbury . 42 Scituate . 41 East Milton . 38 Somerville . 49 Everett . 47 Stoneham . 50 Gloucester . 26 Swampscott . . 21 Hingham . 40 Wakefield . . 50 Kingston . 42 Waltham . 31 Lexington . 28 Watertown . . 32 Lynn . 22 Wellesley . 50 Magnolia . 25 Weston . . 50 Maiden . 48 Weymouth . . 40 Manchester . 25 Winchester . . 51 Marblehead . 22 Winthrop . 51 Marshfieid . 41 Wo burn . 51 NEW ENGLAND As the visitor to the nation's capital takes the first opportunity to make a pilgrimage to Mount Vernon, so it is natural that those who come to Boston from distant points should be eager to see Plymouth, Lexington, Concord, and other shrines of Colonial and Revolutionary patriotism or of American letters. Fortunately for the visitor who likes to reconstruct the ancient scene in his mind's eye, much of the landscape background, particularly at Concord and Lexington, and to a lesser extent about Plymouth Harbor, remains sufficiently unchanged by the works of man to afford the imagination a fairly satisfactory canvas to play upon. The New Englander of to-day, however, takes pride not only in these landmarks of a worthy past, but quite as much in the credit- able part that his fellow citizens in this little corner of these United States are taking in American life at the present time. It is the pleasant habit of a certain school of writers with which librarians are familiar to assert that New England to-day is living upon her past. It would perhaps be sufficient answer to this charge to say that the observant visitor with the open mind will see ample evi- dence to the contrary, even upon his historical pilgrimages, and will inevitably sense the existence of a very living, energetic, and modern New England intermingled with the New England of tradition. But let us re-enforce his conclusions with a few pertinent facts. Industrial New England to-day produces over one-third of the country's textiles, her annual output being valued at over $500,- 000,000; over one-half of its boots and shoes, with a value nearly as great; and over two-thirds of its rubber shoes, valued at over $25,000,000. 8 GUIDE TO HISTORIC PLACES Pulp and paper-making is New England's third largest industry. Maine leads, with the largest newsprint and chemical pulp mills in the country, while Massachusetts provides quality in its high-grade writing papers, and incidentally manufactures at Dalton, in the Berkshires, all of Uncle Sam's banknote paper. Providence is the first jewelry city in the country, while Rhode Island and Massachusetts together turn out 44 per cent of the country's annual output. Meriden, Conn., is the country's silver- ware headquarters. There are no higher grade edged tools than those made in New England. Connecticut produces one-half the brass, bronze, and copper goods, over one-half the firearms, and nearly one-half the clocks of the entire country. At New Britain, Conn., is the largest cutlery factory in America. The General Electric Company, of national reputation, has two of its largest plants at Lynn and at Pittsfield, Mass. At Plym- outh may be seen the country's largest rope-making establishment, whose steamers bring manila and sisal direct to Plymouth Rock. Massachusetts is the second State in chocolate manufacture; the industry will be noticeably in evidence when passing through Milton Lower Mills en route to Plymouth. At Waltham, when returning from Concord, the largest watch factory in the world will be seen. All the New England States have their textile mills and shoe factories. Maine has also a tremendous lumber industry, and still builds iron ships at Bath and canoes at Old Town. And, speaking of shipbuilding, the Fore River plant at Quincy, Mass., now ab- sorbed by the Bethlehem Steel Company, is one of the largest in the country. In building materials, New England produces nearly one-half the granite output of the country, not to mention its marble, lime- stone and slate. In this quarrying business Vermont leads. GUIDE TO HISTORIC PLACES 9 In agriculture, strange as it may sound to western ears, Maine holds enviable records, for, according to her Commissioner of Agriculture, she has lately had an average production of 46 bushels of corn to the acre, the national average being 29.8; 41 bushels of oats, the national average being 25.8; and 260 bushels of potatoes, the national average being 109.5. Not wholly industrial and agricultural, however, is New England's present-day activity. Her six small States fairly bristle with col- leges, universities, and technical schools, among them Amherst, Bates, Boston College, Boston University, Bowdoin, Brown, Clark, Colby, Connecticut College, Dartmouth, Harvard, Holy Cross, Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Middlebury, Mount Holyoke, Radcliffe, Simmons, Smith, Trinity, Tufts, Wellesley, Wesleyan, Wheaton, Williams, Worcester Polytechnic, Yale, the University of Maine, the University of Vermont, and the State agricultural colleges. They all nourish, and the majority of them attract students from far beyond New England's borders. In ad- dition, we may mention characteristic local institutions of Boston, aiming especially at the higher education of those who must com- bine learning and earning, such as the Franklin Union, the Trade Union College, the Wentworth Institute, and the unique Univer- sity Extension system of the State of Massachusetts, which pro- vides instruction by both class and correspondence in every part of the State. In the World War, New England's sons and daughters, whether of native stock or of foreign birth (and over one-third of her popu- lation is foreign-born), did not fail to uphold the traditions of Lexington and Concord. Her one great division, the Twenty-sixth, was continuously in action in France from February, 1918, until the armistice. It will be noticed that we have made no mention of New Eng- land's literary activity, of her great part in the development of 10 GUIDE TO HISTORIC PLACES American libraries, or of other fields in which New England is con- tributing in full measure to the life of the twentieth century, but this little guidebook has not been planned as " booster" literature, but as your welcome to New England; and the purpose of these introductory paragraphs is only to make clear the spirit of the New England of to-day — where reverence for noble tradition by no means overshadows the sense of present-day responsibilities. GUIDE TO HISTORIC PLACES 11 LOCAL PRONUNCIATIONS Maoy of the place-names and family names in eastern Massa- chusetts have peculiar local pronunciations, some dating back to Colonial times, others acquired gradually through the passing years. Visitors coming to New England for the first time may like to forearm themselves with a little practice on the principal local- isms, which are here given. Belmont Bel'mont Needham Needum Beverly Bev'erly Newburyport Newbury-port' Billerica Bill Ricker Quincy Quinzy (not Chelsea Chelsy Quince-y) Concord Conquered (not Reading Redding Con-cord) Scituate Sit'u-ate Copley Cop-ley Somerville Summerville Dedham Deddum Stonehani Stone'ham Gloucester Gloster Tremont Trem'mont Haverhill Hayver-ill (not Waban Waw'bn Havver-hill) Waltham Wawl'tham Hingham Hing'um Woburn Woo'bn (oo as in Maiden Mawlden moon) Marblehead Marble-head 7 Worcester Woo'ster (oo as in Melrose Mel' rose foot — not as in Nahant N-hahnt' Wooster, Ohio) 12 GUIDE TO HISTORIC PLACES BOSTON It is not possible within the limits of this guide to deal with Boston's multitude of historic, literary, and civic landmarks. That has already been done in Rand, McNally's guide, and other guidebooks which may be found at news-stands and bookstores, and in the more thorough books by Edwin M. Bacon and others which are listed at the end of this booklet. Moreover, every one registering at the Swampscott Conference will receive a copy of the Stranger's Directory of Boston, by courtesy of the Boston Transcript, a copy of the illustrated handbook describing the Central Building of the Boston Public Library, by courtesy of the Library's Trustees, and other publications. It has been thought, however, that the following brief sugges- tions as to routes might be welcomed by visiting librarians who may wish to devote a limited amount of time to the sights of Boston, including some of its libraries. Each route includes an important unit in the Boston Public Library system. Trains from Swampscott and Lynn (Boston & Maine Railroad) arrive at the North Station. The subway station, with cars for Scollay Square and Park Street, is directly across the street, on the street level. Overhead is the L station, for all points on the Ele- vated and the Washington Street tunnel. (Warning: all street car, elevated and subway fares in Boston, and, for the most part, in all suburbs, are 10 cents.) Take subway cars for Park Street station (Boston's most central transfer point), and change for Copley station, which is just across the street from the Boston Public Library. Park Street station is also a transfer point for the South GUIDE TO HISTORIC PLACES 13 Station (Boston & Albany and New York, New Haven & Hartford railroads) and for Cambridge (Harvard University). Through trolley cars from Swampscott to Boston pass through Lynn, Revere, Chelsea, and Charlestown to the Scollay Square subway station, beyond which point another fare must be paid. These cars are convenient for reaching the United States Navy Yard, Bunker Hill Monument, and the Charlestown Branch Li- brary (Katharine S. Rogan, Librarian) at Monument Square. 14 GUIDE TO HISTORIC PLACES ROUTE 1 - COPLEY SQUARE, THE CENTRAL LIBRARY The Central building of the Boston Public Library (Charles F. D. Belden, Librarian) faces eastward on Copley Square. The front entrance is on Dartmouth Street, with Boylston Street passing the Library on the north, and Huntington Avenue on the south. Immediately behind the Library on Boylston Street is the College of Liberal Arts of Boston University. Directly across Copley Square from the Library is Trinity (Phillips Brooks') Church. Across Boylston Street, at the corner of Dartmouth, is the New Old South. Behind this, at the corner of Dartmouth and Newbury streets, is the Boston Art Club, with a free exhibition of paintings. Turning the corner of Newbury Street, a few steps west, at No. 162, is the Guild of Boston Artists, also with a free exhibition of paint- ings and sculpture; at the corner of Newbury and Exeter streets is the Massachusetts Normal Art School. Continuing westward, at No. 108 Massachusetts Avenue, corner of Newbury Street, is the Library of the Boston Elevated Railway Company (Louis A. Armi- stead, Librarian). To the right, Massachusetts Avenue continues across the Charles River to Massachusetts Institute of Technology and Harvard University, both in Cambridge. Turning to the left on Massachusetts Avenue, and to the right on Boylston Street (next corner), in five minutes one reaches the building of the Massachusetts Historical Society at the corner of the Fenway (Julius H. Tuttle, Librarian), with an exhibit illustrating American history. Around the corner, at No. 8 Fenway, is the Boston Med- ical Library (Dr. John W. Farlow, Librarian). GUIDE TO HISTORIC PLACES 15 Starting anew from the Public Library, Huntington Avenue, which runs southwest from Copley Square, leads to a number of buildings of importance. It passes on the right the rambling edifice known as Mechanics' Building, where industrial expositions are held. At the two right-hand corners of Huntington and Massa- chusetts avenues are, first, Horticultural Hall, then Symphony Hall, the headquarters of the Boston Symphony Orchestra ("Pop" concerts every evening except Sunday). Further on, on the left, are the New England Conservatory of Music and the Y. M. C. A., the Boston Opera House (right), Tufts College Medical School (left), and the Museum of Fine Arts (right). In the Fenway, near the Museum, is the Forsyth Dental Infirmary. Opposite the Museum on Huntington Avenue is the Wentworth Institute of Mechanic Arts. A little farther on, also in the Fenway, reached by Louis Prang Street to the right, are Mrs. Gardner's Italian Palace (Fenway Court) and Simmons College (Dr. Henry Lefavour, President) and Library School (June R. Donnelly, Director). Continuing out Huntington Avenue an important group of educa- tional institutions centering about Longwood Avenue is soon reached; these include the Boston Normal School, the College of Pharmacy, the Harvard Dental School, and the Harvard Medical School. Adjacent to these schools is a great group of hospitals. A Jamaica Plain car on Huntington Avenue takes one in about fif- teen minutes to the Jamaica Plain Branch of the Public Library (Mary P. Swain, Librarian), at the corner of South and Sedgwick streets, a one-story building serving a residential district. Again starting from the Central Library, this time going down Boylston Street eastward from Copley Square, one passes on the left three prominent buildings in one green plot; these are, in order, the College of Business Administration of Boston University, the Architectural Department of the Massachusetts Institute of Tech- nology, and the Boston Society of Natural History. Passing 16 GUIDE TO HISTORIC PLACES through Berkeley Street to Newbury, and turning to the right, one reaches, at No. 28, the Library of the American Academy of Arts and Sciences (Mrs. Austin Holden, Assistant Librarian), and at No. 114 the Boston Library Society, founded in 1792 (Luella M. Eaton, Librarian). At the foot of Newbury Street is the Public Garden, beyond which is Boston Common. The street north of Newbury is Commonwealth Avenue, which connects the Public Garden with the park system of Boston. Two blocks farther north is Beacon Street, beyond which is the Charles River Basin and Esplanade; on the Cambridge side of the Basin, facing the Espla- nade, are the white buildings of the Massachusetts Institute of Technology. GUIDE TO HISTORIC PLACES 17 ROUTE 2 — BEACON HILL AND THE WEST END Starting from Scollay Square and passing south along Tremont Street, on the left, at the corner of School Street, is King's Chapel with its burying ground, the oldest in the city. Turning up Beacon Street to the right, one soon reaches the Boston Athenaeum on the left (Charles K. Bolton, Librarian), a proprietary library, founded in 1807, containing some 250,000 volumes, including a part of Washington's private library. Next beyond the Athenaeum is the Congregational House (Pilgrim Press) with library (Rev. William H. Cobb, Librarian) containing a large collection of books relating to the Puritans. Opposite, on the corner of Bowdoin Street, is the building of the American Unitarian Association. Across Bowdoin Street is the State House, the central portion by Bulfinch (1795). In the extension at the rear is the State Library (Edward H. Redstone, Librarian) in which is the William Bradford manuscript. On the edge of Boston Common, facing the State House, is the Shaw Memorial, by Saint Gaudens. Bordering the Common at the left is Park Street. At No. 9 Lafayette stayed in 1824 and George Ticknor wrote his "History of Spanish Literature." A little farther down is the home of the Arts and Crafts Society, with an exhibition and sale of artcraft work. At the foot of the hill, on the corner of Tremont Street, is Park Street Church. On the Common, at the foot of Park Street, is the entrance to the Park Street subway station, the central point of the Boston street car system. To the left on Tremont Street, next to Park Street Church, is the Granary Burial Ground, with graves of Hancock, Samuel Adams, and Revere. Returning to Beacon Street, at the State House, one is on the edge of Beacon Hill and the West End, 18 GUIDE TO HISTORIC PLACES the center of Boston's social life in its most famous period. Beacon, Chestnut, Mt. Vernon, Pinckney and Charles streets and Louis- burg Square are full of literary reminiscences. (See Lindsay Swift's " Literary Landmarks of Boston.") At No. 53 Mt. Vernon Street, one block west of Beacon, is the General Theological Library (Mary B. Pillsbury, Librarian), serving all clergymen in New England. Turning eastward on Mt. Vernon Street, passing under the State House, and crossing Bowdoin Street, we reach Ashburton Place, passing on the left the buildings of the Boston University Law School and the New England Historic Genealogical Society (William P. Greenlaw, Librarian), containing the largest collection of genealog- ical records in America. Farther on, at the end of Ashburton Place, on Somerset Street, is the Suffolk County Court House, which con- tains the Social Law Library (Howard L. Stebbins, Librarian). To the left, at No. 18 Somerset Street, is the Social Sendee Library (Bertha V. Hartzell, Librarian). Returning to Bowdoin Street, and turning down the hill to the right, we reach Cambridge Street; across the street, on the corner of Lynde Street, is the West End Branch Library (Florence M. Bethune, Librarian), formerly the West Church, a typical branch serving a foreign population. Be- yond the Library, at the opposite corner, is the Harrison Gray Otis house, with the historical museum and library of the Society for the Preservation of New England Antiquities. The collection includes 15,000 photographs of old New England houses and furniture. GUIDE TO HISTORIC PLACES 19 ROUTE 3 — THE NORTH END From Scollay Square, going eastward down hill along Court Street, we pass the site of Franklin's printing office, where the Old Colony Trust Company now stands; opposite is the Annex to City Hall. On Washington Street, at the foot of Court Street, is the Old State House, built in 1712, with a collection illustrating the history of Boston, in charge of the Bostonian Society. Turning to the right, southward, on Washington Street, toward the retail shop- ping district, we reach the Old South Meeting House, now a museum of Colonial furniture and historical relics, at the corner of Milk Street. At No. 17 Milk Street, opposite the church, is the site of Franklin's birthplace. At No. 137 Milk Street, just beyond Post Office Square, is the engineering and financial library of Stone & Webster (George W. Lee, Librarian). The engineering and textile library of Lockwood, Greene & Co. (Ruth A. Phillips, Librarian) is at 60 Federal Street, just south of Milk Street. Going north from Milk Street through Post Office Square and Congress Street we reach State Street, the earliest center of Boston life, with the Old State. House at its head, on the left. (Note the Lion and the Uni- corn.) Just in front of this building is the site of the Boston Mas- sacre, 1770, marked by a circle of paving stones. Turning to the left through Exchange Street we reach Dock Square, with the Sav- age Winslow House, built about 1700, at the corner. To the right, facing the Square, is Faneuil Hall, the " Cradle of Liberty," with the museum of the Ancient and Honorable Artillery Company. Leaving Faneuil Hall, and turning north on Union Street, we reach the "Sign of the Blue Bell," the site of Franklin's home, at the corner of Union and Hanover Streets. Passing down Hanover 20 GUIDE TO HISTORIC PLACES Street, and through Salem Street to the left, we traverse the North End. On the right, at the foot of Hull Street, we presently reach Christ Church, the oldest house of worship in the city, in the tower of which were hung the signal lanterns of Paul Revere. On Hull Street to the left is Copp's Hill Burying Ground, with graves dating from 1660. Returning a short distance on Salem Street, and turn- ing to the left on North Bemiet Street, we reach the North End Branch Library (Josephine E. Kenney, Librarian), a typical for- eigners' branch, provided with roof garden and club rooms. Con- tinuing on North Bennet Street to Hanover, and turning to the right, we reach Prince Street, which leads to North Square and the home of Paul Revere (admission 25 cents). Continuing down North Street we reach Dock Square, and, crossing Washington Street, return to Scollay Square by Cornhill with its old book shops. WORCESTER. . . . B05TQN PUBLIC LIBRARY T"0 PLYMOUTH ..:_ SWAMP3COTT TO MAONOUIA U34; 6.14.21 ! 2M. GUIDE TO HISTORIC PLACES 21 NORTH SHORE TRIP Tuesday afternoon, June 21, 1921 The term "North Shore" is applied to the coast of Massachusetts lying north of Boston Harbor. Swampscott (population, 8,101), first settled in 1629, was a part of Lynn until 1852. The name is of Indian origin and is said to mean " Red Rock." Swampscott is a residential town and a favor- ite summer resort. The fish houses which formerly lined the shores have been removed and the beaches are now reserved as public property. From the New Ocean House, Nahant and Egg Rock lighthouse are in the foreground, and in clear weather the "South Shore" (Nantasket Beach, etc.) can be seen in the distance. The Public Library, 13,200 volumes (S. Louise Honors, Librarian) was started in 1868, and was formerly in the Town Hall. The present building was erected by the town in 1916 at a cost of $25,000 on land donated by Prof. Elihu Thomson. The library has already outgrown its shelf capacity. The town has appropriated this year $5,300, and there is available the income from $10,000 of invested funds. Open from 2 to 9. Nahant (population, 1,318) is a summer resort town, situated on the promontory seen south of Swampscott. Agassiz, Longfellow, Prescott, Motley, and other Boston literati of the nineteenth cen- tury passed their summers here. The home of Senator Henry Cabot Lodge is at Eastern Point. Bass Point is famous for shore dinners. Library, 26,713 volumes (May W. Perkins, Librarian). Steamers run frequently from Otis Wharf, Boston. 22 GUIDE TO HISTORIC PLACES Lynn (population, 99,148) was first settled in 1629 and named for Lynn Regis, Norfolk, Eng. It is the leading city in the world for the manufacture of women's shoes. The General Electric Com- pany has two extensive plants — the Federal Street works and the River works. There are 108 buildings, covering 200 acres and providing 3,000,000 square feet of floor space. Approximately 12,000 persons are employed. Lynn Woods, a city park reserva- tion of about 2,200 acres, is left largely in a state of nature. The shore from Nahant Beach to Swampscott has been taken over by the Metropolitan Park Commission, which has built a fine concrete embankment and boulevard along the shore. Lynn Public Library, 117,000 volumes, four branches (Clarence E. Sherman, Librarian), is at the corner of City Hall Square and North Common Street, on the line of the Lynn and Boston and Lynn and Saugus Center trolleys. Marblehead (4 miles from Swampscott by trolley or train, pop- ulation, 7,324) is built on a rocky peninsula. In early times it was largely engaged in the fisheries. Its narrow, crooked streets and quaint houses have much interest for visitors. Marblehead Neck is a summer resort, and many yachts and pleasure boats frequent the harbor during the season. Abbot Public Library, 23,000 vol- umes (Sarah E. Gregory, Librarian), is in Abbot Hall, on Washing- ton Square, about five minutes' walk from the railroad station or trolley line. Open on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Fridays, and Sat- urdays from 2 to 5 and 6 to 8. Willard's famous painting, "Yankee Doodle," is hung in Abbot Hall. The Lee mansion (1776), at 169 Washington Street, is a remarkably well-preserved specimen of somewhat pretentious colonial architecture and may be visited for a small fee. Salem (population, 42,529) was the mother town of Essex County. The Indian name was Naumkeag. Roger Conant (statue at west end of Common) built the first house in 1626. John Ende- GUIDE TO HISTORIC PLACES 23 cott, with his company, came in 1628. In 1692 nineteen persons accused of witchcraft were hung (not burned) on Gallows Hill, at the west end of the town. Giles Corey was pressed to death for refusing to plead. At the North Bridge, on Sunday, Feb. 26, 1775, occurred the first armed resistance of the Revolution, when Lieu- tenant Colonel Leslie and the Sixty-fourth Regiment of the King's Regulars landed at Marblehead and marched to Salem in search of concealed cannon. They were successfully opposed by the townspeople, and returned to Boston without the cannon. Salem's early trade with India, China, and Far Eastern countries made the town famous during the nineteenth century. The city is notable for its Colonial (Georgian) architecture and its museums. The visi- tor arriving by trolley or train naturally goes first to Town House Square, the location of the Town House where the first Provincial Congress, assembled Oct. 5, 1774, passed a vote renouncing the authority of the British Parliament and adjourned to Concord. On the eastern corner of the square stands the First Church. (See tablet.) A stone in the pavement marked "H" marks the site of the "old town pump" made famous by Hawthorne in his "Rill from the Old Town Pump." Essex Street is Hawthorne's "Main Street." At 161 Essex Street is the Peabody Museum. The Ma- rine Room contains models and pictures of ships, portraits of Salem merchants and shipmasters, and objects connected with the commercial history of Salem. Upstairs is an Essex County natural history collection and an ethnological exhibit, the latter containing one of the most complete Japanese collections in the world. The Essex Institute, 132 Essex Street (Louise M. Taylor, Li- brarian), contains a library of over 500,000 volumes — books, pamphlets and bound newspapers, history, genealogy and science, special libraries on China and the Chinese, and the commercial marine. The Museum has one of the finest collections in the coun- try of historical relics, costumes, furniture, manuscripts, etc., in- 24 GUIDE TO HISTORIC PLACES eluding three rooms furnished in the style of 1800, and a picture gallery, mainly of historical portraits. In the Institute grounds is a seventeenth century house furnished in the style of 1700, and a garden of the same period. Hawthorne's birthplace is at 27 Union Street; house not open to visitors. The Custom House, 178 Derby Street, built in 1819, was described in the preface to his "Scarlet Letter." On Derby Street are many of the fine houses built by the old merchants and shipmasters, but now occupied by foreigners. The House of Seven Gables, 54 Turner Street, was often visited by Hawthorne. It is now a settlement house, open to visitors on pay- ment of a small fee. Charter Street Burial Ground. The oldest stone is dated 1673. Capt. Richard More (only contemporaneous gravestone of a " Mayflower" Pilgrim known to exist), Gov. Simon Bradstreet, Chief Justice Lynde, and Judge Hathorne were buried here. (See tablet at gate.) At 53 Charter Street is the Grimshawe House, the scene of "Dr. Grimshawe's Secret." Hawthorne's wife lived here during their courtship. Chestnut Street is lined with fine examples of early nineteenth century houses. Pickering House, 18 Broad Street, was built in 1660 by John Pickering, and has always been held by the family. The gables were added in 1841. Salem Public Library, 370 Essex Street (Gardner M. Jones, Li- brarian), is in a house built in 1855 by Capt. John Bertram, and given to the city by his heirs in 1887. The building was enlarged in 1911-12. The Library, including branches, has 70,000 vol- umes. Open 9 to 9. The South Branch Library building, corner of Lafayette Street and Ocean Avenue, on the trolley line from Salem to Marblehead, was built in 1912-13. Open 2 to 6 and 7 to 9. Salem Athenaeum, 339 Essex Street, 29,000 volumes (Alice H. Stone, Librarian); incorporated in 1810, having been the out- growth of the Social Library of 1760 and the Philosophical Library of 1781. Witch House, 310 Essex Street, built before 1675. Judge GUIDE TO HISTORIC PLACES 25 Corwin lived here in 1692, and some preliminary witch examinations are said to have taken place here. Peirce-Nichols House, 80 Federal Street, built in 1782 from de- signs by Samuel Mclntire, is a fine example of colonial architecture. The Essex County Court House is on Federal Street; in the clerk's office are shown witch records and " witch pins;" the Law Library, 30,000 volumes (Sumner Y. Wheeler, Librarian), is on the second floor. For further information see "Visitor's Guide", published by the Essex Institute. Beverly (population, 22,561), formerly a part of Salem, was settled in 1630. Along the shore and at Montserrat, Pride's Cross- ing, and Beverly Farms are many magnificent summer residences. The United Shoe Machinery Company's plant is the most impor- tant industry. The Beverly Public Library, 43,000 volumes (Martha P. Smith, Librarian), at Essex Street, corner of Winter, occupies a brick building with marble trimmings, completed in 1913; Cass Gilbert, architect. The house of the Rev. John Hale, first persecutor of the so-called "witches," is still standing on Hale Street, nearly opposite the Common. Manchester (population, 2,466) was incorporated in 1645. It has many fine estates. The "Singing Beach," when pressed by the foot or struck by an incoming wave, sends forth a musical sound. Along the shore are many bold headlands. Manchester Public Library, 15,500 volumes (Jennie C. Sargent, Librarian), occupies a granite building, the gift of T. Jefferson Coolidge; Charles F. McKim, architect. \ Magnolia is a part of Gloucester. As a summer resort it dates from 1870. The large hotels are about two miles from the railroad station and occupy fine rocky bluffs near Norman's Woe, the scene of Longfellow's poem, "The Wreck of the Hesperus." The twenty- fourth conference of the A. L. A. was held here in 1902, with head- 26 GUIDE TO HISTORIC PLACES quarters at the three hotels, — the Hesperus, New Magnolia and Oceanside. About one-half mile beyond the hotels is Rafe's Chasm, formed by the disintegration of a dike about 200 feet long, 60 feet deep, and 10 feet wide. The Magnolia Library Association Library contains 8,000 volumes. Gloucester (population, 22,947) is one of the foremost fishing ports in the world, and a visit to its wharves and fish packing houses will be found most interesting and instructive. East Glouces- ter is a resort of artists, and contains many fine summer residences. Formerly the favorite trip was by trolley "around the Cape," through Rockport, with its extensive granite quarries, Pigeon Cove, Lanesville, and Annisquam, but now, alas, the Gloucester trolleys are no more. The Sawyer Free Library, 23,000 volumes (Rachel S. Webber, Librarian), on Middle Street, five minutes from the railroad station, occupies a wooden dwelling house altered for library purposes. Gloucester was the birthplace of Universalism in America, and its first meeting-house is still standing. GUIDE TO HISTORIC PLACES 27 CONCORD-LEXINGTON TRIP — OVER PAUL REVERE'S ROUTE Thursday, June 23, 1921 Shore Boulevards. The first part of the route from Swamp- scott will be over a succession of boulevards and parkways which form part of the Commonwealth's Metropolitan Park System, and are so laid out as to connect the various parks and beach reserva- tions belonging to it. The principal one, the Revere Beach Park- way, connecting Revere Beach Reservation (Boston's Coney Island) with the Mystic River Parkway, takes us through a part of Everett (see page 47) into Somerville (see page 49) . There we leave it, and passing through the city streets of Somerville and Medford (see page 48) come to Arlington, where we first strike the route taken by Paul Revere on his famous ride on the night of April 18, 1775, to warn the inhabitants that the British were marching to Concord to seize the Yankee farmers' military supplies. Arlington (population, 18,665), from 1732 to 1807 the Second Precinct of Cambridge, was incorporated as West Cambridge in 1807, and received its present name in 1867. Aside from the historic tablets along Massachusetts Avenue, at- tention is called to the First Parish Church on the left (founded in 1733), in the rear of which is the ancient burying ground. Just beyond, on the same side, is the Robbins Library (Elizabeth J. Newton, Librarian), housing the oldest free library in the State. The building was erected in 1892 by Mrs. Maria C. Robbins in memory of her husband, Eli Robbins. On the terrace between the Library and the Town Hall is a unique fountain with bronze figure 28 GUIDE TO HISTORIC PLACES known as the Indian Hunter, by Cyrus E. Dallin, a resident of Arlington. To be fully appreciated the statue must be seen at close range. The Robbins Memorial Town Hall (1913), designed by R. C. Sturgis, is one of the most beautiful and serviceable municipal buildings in the country. The bronze base of the flagpole, on the Town Hall grounds, was designed by Cyrus E. Dallin, and repre- sents historical figures of the Arlington squaw sachem, a Puritan divine, a Puritan mother and child, and a Minute Man. The flowers and fruit are symbolic of Arlington as an agricultural town. Lexington (population, 6,350) was known as Cambridge Farms until 1713, when it was incorporated as a separate settlement, taking its name probably from Lord Lexington, a prominent states- man. Soon after crossing the dividing line between Arlington Heights and East Lexington we reach the Stone Building, now a branch of Cary Memorial Library. This first object of interest, on the right, was the house where Ralph Waldo Emerson and Dr. Charles Follen preached before the construction of Follen Church, just beyond. Farther along, on the same side, is the house of Jonathan Har- rington, the younger, the last survivor of the Battle of Lexington. Some few rods beyond, on the left, is the Munroe Tavern, built in 1695 and used as headquarters and hospital of Earl Percy, April 19, 1775. Here, also, George Washington w T as entertained at dinner in 1789. The stone cannon by the High School, which is presently seen on the right, marks the site of one of the field pieces placed by Earl Percy to cover the retreat of the British troops. In the Town Hall, at Lexington Center, is the masterly painting of the Battle of Lexington by Henry Sandham; also, statues of John Hancock and Samuel Adams. GUIDE TO HISTORIC PLACES 29 Cary Memorial Library (Marian P. Kirkland, Librarian), with its attractive out-of-door bulletin board, is soon reached. The Library was founded in 1868 by Mrs. Maria Hastings Cary; the present building was erected in 1906 by Miss Alice Butler Cary in memory of her mother. A few rods from the library is the famous "Common" or "Battle- ground" known as "the birthplace of American liberty." Here are many points of vital interest. The Hayes Memorial Fountain, with statue of idealized Minute Man, called "Captain Parker," Henry H. Kitson, sculptor, faces the British line of march. Buck- man Tavern, the rendezvous of the Minute Men, now used as a Community House, is just across the Green. "The Pulpit" marks the site of the old church past which Pitcairn led his troops. The Boulder and Monument mark the line of the Minute Men. On the hill to the left is the Old Belfry from which the alarm was rung on April 19, 1775. Beyond the Common, to the left, is the Old Burying Ground, with graves of Captain Parker and other Revolutionary soldiers. On the opposite corner, across from the Common, is the house of the elder Jonathan Harrington, the scene of a touching incident of the battle. Opposite it, also, is the Masonic Temple, formerly the first normal school in America. Five minutes' walk up Hancock Street, to the right of the Com- mon, is the interesting old parsonage known as the Hancock-Clarke house, built in 1698 by Rev. John Hancock (grandfather of young John Hancock of Boston) and occupied after his death by Rev. Jonas Clarke; here the younger Hancock and Samuel Adams were sleeping when aroused by Paul Revere. Concord (population, 6,461) was so called from the peaceful man- ner of its purchase from the Indians in 1636. The Indian name "Musketaquid" means grass-grown river. Approaching the town from Lexington we come to Meriam's Corner, where, on April 19, 30 GUIDE TO HISTORIC PLACES 1775, the Minute Men attacked the retreating British in flank. Beyond, at the white cottage on the right, is the original Concord grapevine. Next is Hawthorne's "Wayside," now owned by " Margaret Sidney," and one-time home of the Alcotts. The Alcotts' "Orchard House" is just beyond, set back under the trees. On the left, at the Cambridge Turnpike, is Emerson's house (white) with its famous library. Of the Revolutionary houses opposite the white church, one be- longs to the Antiquarian Society, another to T. W. Surette, the music critic. The church contains timbers of the old one in which the First Provincial Congress was held in 1774. Farther along on the left is the Wright Tavern, where Major Pitcairn, stirring his toddy on the morning of April 19, boasted that he would stir the rebels' blood before night. The old Hill Burying Ground opposite contains the oldest gravestone, 1677. In a part of the Colonial Inn in the square the Thoreau family once lived. In another part war material was stored in 1775. Sleepy Hollow Cemetery, with the graves of Emerson, Haw- thorne, Thoreau, and the Alcotts, and French's beautiful Melvin Memorial, lies beyond on Bedford Street, which starts from the east side of the Square, next the Town Hall. Going out Monument Street towards the battleground, in the same direction taken by the British troops, we see at length on the right, opposite the Old Manse, the Jones house (1644) showing in the ell, between the door and the window, the hole made by a British bullet. Along the ridge behind the house the American soldiers fell back to the battleground before the advance of the British troops, who kept to the road. In the Old Manse, built in 1765 by Rev. William Emerson, Ralph Waldo Emerson boarded with his grandparents, 1834-35, and there wrote "Nature." Haw- thorne occupied the house, 1842-46, and there wrote his "Mosses from an Old Manse." GUIDE TO HISTORIC PLACES 31 Turning down the avenue of pines and firs on the left, we come to the North Bridge (concrete, 1909) over the Concord River, with French's " Minute Man" marking the spot where Once the embattled farmers stood, And fired the shot heard round the world. The British soldiers were on the east side of the river. Two are buried near where they fell. Upon the retreat of the British to Lexington and Boston the Americans took a bridle path behind the ridge to Meriam's Corner, in the endeavor to cut off the retreat. Returning to the square we find, built into the house on Main Street on the right beyond the bank, the old Block House. Two houses beyond is the old Shephard's Tavern. Opposite is the Library (Sarah R. Bartlett, Librarian) which contains many ob- jects of interest, and has a remarkably extensive collection of books by Concord authors. In the house with the pillars, on the right, belonging to the Hoar family, lives Samuel Merwin. The brown house on the left at Belknap Street was once the home of the American Jane Austin. The Thoreau-Alcott house, where Thoreau and, later, Bronson Alcott, spent their declining years and died, is second from this. A half mile up Elm Street lived Frank B. Sanborn, author and friend of John Brown. Allen French's home is on Nashawtuc Road. Out on Sudbury Road, which crosses Thoreau Street, Daniel Chester French long had a studio. Two miles south on Thoreau Street is Thoreau's Lake Walden. Waltham (population, 30,915). The largest watch factory in the world, that of the Waltham Watch Company, is located here, and more watches are made in Waltham than in any other place in the world. Here also we find the cotton mills of the Boston Manu- facturing Company, where, in 1813, all the processes of manufac- 32 GUIDE TO HISTORIC PLACES turing cotton cloth were first performed in the United States under one roof. The Waltham Social Library, predecessor of the Waltham Pub- lic Library, was established in 1799. The present library, with about 60,000 volumes (Orlando C. Davis, Librarian), is housed in a remarkably beautiful and at the same time very practical build- ing in the Colonial style, built in 1915. Watertown (population, 21,457), founded in 1630, was the first inland town settled in New England. Out of its original territory Weston and Waltham were formed, as well as parts of Lincoln, Cambridge and Belmont. The town at present is only about three miles in length from east to west and scarcely a mile in width. The Provincial Congress met here, April to July, 1775, and here the General Court was organized and sat from July, 1775, to November, 1776, and again in June, 1778. On Main Street, near the Waltham line, stands the Abraham Browne house, built between 1630 and 1640. On Marshall Street is the Marshall Fowle house, in which a reception was given to Martha Washington when she was on her way to join General Washington in Cambridge. General Warren spent the flight before the Battle of Bunker Hill in this house. Mention of a " social library" is made as early as 1799. Later there were district school libraries and several circulating libraries. The Free Public Library of Watertown was organized in 1868. The present building was erected in 1883, part of the money being raised by contributions and the rest appropriated by the town; in 1898 an addition was given by Mr. Hollis Hunnewell of Welles- ley. The Library (Lydia W. Masters, Librarian) has 46,223 vol- umes. The United States Arsenal has been located here since 1816. There are now 87 buildings in the arsenal, five of which were built before 1821. The principal products of the arsenal are steel, iron, GUIDE TO HISTORIC PLACES 33 and non-ferrous castings, forgings for guns, high explosive and armor-piercing projectiles, anti-aircraft gun carriages, heavy mobile gun carriages, barbette and disappearing carriages for seacoast guns up to and including 16 inches caliber. The Arsenal has chem- ical and physical laboratories for the development of ordnance. Perkins Institution for the Blind, founded in Boston in 1829, came to Watertown in 1912. It has 268 pupils and a library of 16,000 books in raised characters; it circulates these books to any part of the United States and Canada. Watertown is now a manufacturing town, with factories making woolen goods, rubber goods, automobiles, carpet linings, stoves, etc. Notwithstanding its size (its population is somewhat larger than that of Boise, Idaho), it still remains under town meeting government. Mount Auburn Cemetery lies between Watertown and Cam- bridge and will be seen upon the right. Many famous people are burried here, among them Longfellow, Lowell, Holmes, Phillips Brooks, W. E. Channing, Parkman, Agassiz, Edwin Booth, Margaret Fuller, Charlotte Cushman, and Mary Baker Eddy. Cambridge (population, 118,000). A quarter of a mile beyond Mount Auburn, Elmwood, formerly the home of James Russell Lowell, is seen on the left. Half a mile beyond, on Brattle Street, the next parallel street to the left, is Craigie House, Washington's headquarters in 1775 and the home of Longfellow from 1844 to his death. At the corner of Brattle and Mason streets (left) are the buildings of the Episcopal Theological School (Edith D. Fuller, Librarian). On the right, corner of Mason and Garden streets, near the Washington Elm, are seven of the eleven buildings of Radcliffe College. The four dormitories are on Shepard Street. Library, 48,000 volumes (Rose Sherman, Librarian). Graduate students have practically the full privileges of Harvard College Library; the undergraduates a more limited use. Continuing down 34 GUIDE TO HISTORIC PLACES Garden Street we pass on the right Christ Church (Episcopal, built in 1761), the old Cambridge Burying Ground, and the First Parish Church (Unitarian), and on the left the buildings of Harvard University. This brings us to Harvard Square, the terminus of the Cambridge subway trains from Park Street, Boston (eight minutes' ride), and transfer station for Newton and other suburban points. Harvard Square may also be reached from Park Street, Boston, in twenty-five minutes by subway trolley, transferring at Massa- chusetts station to surface trolley over Harvard Bridge, passing Massachusetts Institute of Technology. On the building at the corner of Dunster Street is a tablet indicating the site of the press of Stephen Daye, the first printer in British America. The founding of Boston, Cambridge and Harvard College was practically contemporaneous; Boston in 1630, Cambridge in 1631, Harvard College in 1636. The Cambridge Public Library (Thomas H. Cummings, Libra- rian) is about five minutes' walk from Harvard Square, on Broad- way. It contains over 110,000 volumes, including a special collec- tion of books by Cambridge authors. There are four branch libraries. Near the Library are the two high schools and the Rindge Manual Training School for boys. Four important presses are located in Cambridge, namely, River- side Press of Houghton, Mifflin Company, Athenaeum Press of Ginn & Co., University Press (John Wilson & Son, Inc.), and Harvard University Press. Harvard University has to-day an enrolment, including the summer school, of 7,445 students, with about 900 officers of in- struction. The twenty-one departments of the University occupy a total area of over 500 acres. Most of the buildings are in Cam- bridge and Boston. Five of the buildings in the "Yard" were built before the Revolution, i.e., Massachusetts Hall (1720); Wadsworth House (1726) ; Holden Chapel (1744) ; Hollis Hall (1763) ; GUIDE TO HISTORIC PLACES 35 and Harvard Hall (1766). At the north corner of the Yard is Phillips Brooks House, the center of the religious and charitable work of the college; across the street is Hemenway Gymnasium; beyond it on the left are the two Law School buildings, Austin and Langdell Halls. On the right of the Gymnasium is Lawrence Hall, at present the headquarters of the Graduate School of Education; beyond this are the new Music Building, Jefferson Physical Lab- oratory, Cruft Memorial Laboratory, and Pierce Hall, occupied by the Engineering School. Opposite Pierce Hall, on Oxford Street, is the University Museum, commonly called the Agassiz Museum. This is the center of the college instruction and investigation in zoology, botany, mineralogy, geology, and American archaeology and ethnology. On the third floor of the botanical section is the unique collection of the Blascka glass models of flowers and plants. East of the Museum, on Divinity Avenue, are the two buildings of the Harvard Divinity School. Northeast of these is the Andover Theological Seminary, containing the combined libraries of that in- stitution and of the Harvard Divinity School, amounting to over 100,000 volumes. On the left of Divinity Avenue, as one faces towards Memorial Hall (with clock tower) are the Semitic Museum and Randall Hall, occupied from 1912 to 1915 by the College Li- brary while the Widener Library was building. It is now occupied by the Harvard University Press. On the right of Divinity Avenue are two modern chemical laboratories, — the Wolcott Gibbs Me- morial Laboratory (1912) and the T. Jefferson Coolidge, Jr., Memo- rial Laboratory (1913). The Germanic Museum is on the corner of Divinity Avenue, opposite Memorial Hall. Memorial Hall was erected as a memorial to the graduates and students who died in the Civil War. The western end is used as a dining hall; Sanders Theatre, the eastern end, on occasions of academic ceremonial. Opposite Memorial Hall is the Fogg Art Museum (Maria H. Dudley, Librarian), and beyond it Robinson Hall, occupied by the two 36 GUIDE TO HISTORIC PLACES schools of Architecture and of Landscape Architecture (Theodora Kimball, Librarian). The College Chapel is behind the Fogg Art Museum. At the right, in the middle of the "Yard," is University Hall, devoted to administrative uses. At the left of the latter is the Harry Elkins Widener Memorial Library (Archibald Cary Coolidge, Director of Libraries; William C. Lane, Librarian). A special pamphlet, issued for the A. L. A. describing this building and the collections of the College Library, is included in the envelope of pamphlet guides given to every one registering at Swampscott. South of Harvard Square, fronting Charles River, is the group of three freshmen dormitories, completed in 1914. During the Sum- mer School, one of these is occupied by women students. Across the river is Soldiers' Field, with the Stadium. For details about the college visitors are referred to the " Official Guide to Harvard Uni- versity," edited by the Harvard Memorial Society, 5th edition, 1917. Massachusetts Institute of Technology. The group of build- ings facing the Charles River, at the Cambridge end of Harvard Bridge, was dedicated in 1916. When completed the entire struc- ture will consist of 34 units connected by corridors. The Library and Administration Building form the dominating feature. Sep- arate buildings are the Walker Memorial, which is the Institute clubhouse, the President's house, and the dormitories. Library, 135,000 volumes, 50,000 pamphlets and maps (Robert P. Bigelow, Librarian). GUIDE TO HISTORIC PLACES SOUTH SHORE TRIP Monday, June 27, 1921 The term " South Shore" is applied to the coast of Massachusetts lying south of Boston Harbor as far as the Cape Cod Canal. For the trip to Plymouth and the South Shore, on Monday, June 27, the automobiles will start from the Public Library, Copley Square, and pass through Dartmouth Street to Commonwealth Avenue. Turning west on the Avenue, the route lies for a number of miles through the park system of Boston, following a series of streams and lakes which separate the city from Brookline. In the Fenway, one sees, across the water to the left, the Forsyth Dental Infirmary, the Museum of Fine Arts, Fenway Court (Mrs. Gard- ner's Venetian palace), and Simmons College. On the right, at Jamaica Pond, is the site of the home of Francis Parkman, the historian, with a monument by French. Beyond the Pond the road skirts the Arnold Arboretum, the famous museum of trees and shrubs belonging to Harvard University. From Forest Hills the cars proceed by Morton Street, passing between Franklin Park (left) and Forest Hills Cemetery (right) to the Lower Mills, the site of the earliest development of water power in New England (1634) ; here we cross the Neponset River, passing the great choco- late factory of Walter Baker & Co. (established in 1765), into the old town of Milton. On the left, at the foot of the hill is the Vose House, where the " Suffolk Resolves," a sort of prelude to the Declaration of Independence, were adopted Sept. 9, 1775. Near the top of the hill is (right) the home of Governor Hutchinson, last 38 GUIDE TO HISTORIC PLACES Royal Governor of Massachusetts; across the street is "Governor Hutchinson's Field," with a view over Boston Harbor and Mt. Wollaston, the earliest settlement in Quincy. We are now on the old "Country Way" from Boston to Plym- outh. At East Milton we cross the tracks of the New York, New Haven & Hartford Railroad system, which at this point runs over the old roadbed of the first incorporated railway built in the United States. It was constructed in 1826 to haul the granite for Bunker Hill Monument from the West Quincy quarries to tidewater three miles away. So great was the opposition to taking the necessary land by right of eminent domain that the charter was finally ob- tained only because of the patriotic object in view. The land on the left beyond East Milton is the original grant to William and Anne Hutchinson, the site of whose home in Wollaston is now marked by a tablet. Half a mile farther we cross old Fur- nace Brook, so named for the old iron works in the meadow to the right in 1643. A small quantity of iron was found in the vicinity, but it never proved to be of much value. A few rods up the hill on the right is the ninth milestone of the Country Way — a much revered object in Quincy. The 11th and 12th stones, set up about 1710, will also be seen later. A half mile farther on, at a corner on the left, is the old Adams mansion acquired by John Adams in 1785 and now occupied by his great grandson, Brooks Adams, the author. The house was built in 1731 as a summer home by Leonard Vassall, a West Indian planter and a Tory. He fled at the out- break of the Revolution and the property was sequestrated. Straight ahead one block is the old Quincy homestead, better known as the "Dorothy Q" house. It is so named^ in memory of the girl born here in 1709, and celebrated by Oliver Wendell Holmes, a descendant, in a poem of that title. The mansion includes the old Coddington farmhouse, probably the oldest structure in New England. About 1636 it was the meeting-place of the leaders of the GUIDE TO HISTORIC PLACES 39 "Antinomian Controversy," the earliest outbreak of freedom of thought in New England. Here gathered Rev. John Wheelwright, Anne Hutchinson, Sir Harry Vane, William Coddington and many another leading spirit of the day. The house has been restored by the Society of Colonial Dames, and is maintained by them as a museum. Two blocks farther down stands Adams Academy, now used as a headquarters for the Boy Scouts. It stands on the site of the birthplace of John Hancock, the first signer of the Declaration of Independence. A few rods farther on is the 10th milestone of the Country Way. Just ahead, at the fork in the streets, is the "Stone Temple," built in 1828 largely through the generosity of John Adams. This church goes back in direct line to the "Chapell of Ease" of which John Wheelwright was the first pastor in 1636. In the church is a crypt where lie side by side the remains of Quincy's two Presidents, John Adams and John Quincy Adams, and their wives. Just behind the church is the Thomas Crane Public Library (Truman R. Temple, Librarian), erected in 1881. A cut of the building is to be seen in the Encyclopedia Britannica, under the subject "Architecture." It is given as a typical specimen of H. H. Richardson's "manner," which strongly dominated American work for a score of years, and to which the editors give very high praise. Another point of interest to librarians is the fact that the "Quincy system" of education, built up in the 80's by Colonel Parker, and widely influential throughout the country, is deemed of sufficient importance to be made a class by itself (371.47) in the Dewey decimal classification. A mile farther on we shall see standing side by side the two little red houses which were the birthplaces of two Presidents of the United States. Both are maintained as museums and are open daily for visitors. A short way ahead we climb Penn's Hill, from 40 GUIDE TO HISTORIC PLACES which Abigail Adams with her seven-year-old son watched the smoke of the Battle of Bunker Hill. A cairn now marks the spot. The next three towns through which we shall pass have peculiar charms of their own, most of which arise from their unmistakable suggestions of the past. Weymouth (population, 15,057), the first, is the oldest town excepting only Plymouth, and the only one to retain its original boundaries. The buccaneer Weston made the first settlement here in 1622 at the point called Wessagussett. A little later at the same spot occurred the only fight that Myles Standish had with the Indians, when he killed Wituwamet single- handed, and nipped in the bud a plot that had for its object the extinction of the Plymouth settlement. We shall pass Arnold's Tavern, where met the Committee of Safety in the troublous days before the Revolution. Directly across the street from it is an unusually fine specimen of Colonial house. Farther down the street we shall see the Old North Church, " gathered" in 1623. Here preached William Smith, to whose home came wooing lawyer John Adams. Family pride ran high in those days, and an Adams was not thought worthy of a Smith. So the young man was not allowed to stable his horse but compelled to tie it to a tree. Fortunately the fair Abigail knew her own mind, and thus became the wife of one President and the mother of another. As we pass under the railroad just beyond the church to the right we shall see a yellow house on a corner where Abigail Adams was born. The original house has been removed to a near-by site, and is still standing. Library, 31,258 volumes (Abbie L. Loud, Librarian). Hingham (population, 5,604) has a wealth of beautiful streets and historic homes. By far the most interesting building is the "Old Ship" church, built in 1681. There are said to be four churches in this country built in the seventeenth century which are still used for worship; this is the oldest. The Town Mill, bearing GUIDE TO HISTORIC PLACES 41 date of 1643, is still standing near by. It will be of especial interest to those who have never seen a mill turned by the ebb and flow of the tides. Library, 16,978 volumes (Albert L. Stephenson, Li- brarian) . From Hingham to Cohasset the route lies over the Jerusa- lem Road, which skirts a fine rock shore. To the southeast may be seen Minot's Light, one of the best known along the coast. Cohasset (population, 2,639) presents an unusually fine specimen of the New England "town common," — a wide expanse of green, beautifully shaded, with a road on each side and a fine old church in the center. Down on the shore has been erected a monument with a tablet which gives Capt. John Smith's own description of his visit to this place in 1614. His spelling of the name is "Quono- hasset." Library, 17,467 volumes (Sarah B. Collier, Librarian). Two miles below is North Scituate (Pierce Memorial Library, 5,150 volumes, Mary L. Lee, Librarian), a village of the town of Scituate (population, 2,534; Allen Memorial Library, 3,500 volumes, Edith A. Manson, Librarian), where Bound Brook marks the ancient line between Plymouth and Massachusetts Bay (Boston) colonies. We shall soon see on the left the great flagpole and Norman chime tower marking the estate of Thomas W. Lawson, of " Frenzied finance" fame. The tower conceals the town's water reservoir. A mile or so farther on we pass between the "wide- spreading pond" (right) and "the mill that stood by it" (left), for a few hundred feet away (but not in sight from our road) is still to be seen the well curb where hung the Old Oaken Bucket that in- spired Samuel Woodworth to compose his time-honored poem. The Country Way will lead us away from the more direct State road at Marshfield (population, 1,725) past the estate where Daniel Webster built his home and spent his later years. A more modern house has been built in place of the original which was destroyed by fire. The estate is still beautiful. At the north end is a small cemetery where lies the body of the statesman. A mile farther on 42 GUIDE TO HISTORIC PLACES is the Isaac Winslow house, of great age, now maintained as a museum. It is built on the land originally granted Governor Winslow and very near the site of the house originally built by him. Two public libraries: Ventress Free Library at Marshfield Center, 5,160 volumes (Josephine A. Baker, Librarian) ; Clift Rodgers Free Library at Marshfield Hills, 2,000 volumes (Marjorie Purdy, Librarian) . In Duxbury (population, 1,921) we shall pass up a long grade at the top of which stands a long barnlike structure which is the oldest store in New England. In Duxbury still stands the house built by the first John Alden, in which he died. It is now maintained by the Alden Kindred, of whom there are about 3,000. John Alden the eighth occupies it and will show you children to the fourth generation creeping about the floor who will insure the perpetuation of the line. Library 10,500 volumes (Sara B. Higgins, Librarian). The most prominent landmark in Duxbury is the "Captain's Monument," on the hill where Myles Standish loved to sit and look out over the bay. At the foot of the hill is the little church- yard where the first meeting-house was erected and where Standish and his family are buried. There are no stones in the middle of the yard. The oldest stone bears the date of 1697, due to the fact ±hat no stones were inscribed previous to that date. The original markers of the Captain's grave are two jagged uncut rocks not more than eight inches high. Kingston (population, 2,505) possesses more houses of the orig- inal Pilgrims than Plymouth itself. As soon as it was safe to do so the first settlers came out there in order to get more land. No house now standing is more closely connected with Pilgrim history than the Bradford home erected there in 1674 and still standing. In this house for twenty-five years reposed the priceless "Narrative of the Beginnings of New Plimoth." During King Philip's War the house was plundered and set on fire by the Indians, but fortu- GUIDE TO HISTORIC PLACES 43 nately the fire was extinguished. We shall pass this house, as well as the spot where a huge boulder and tablet mark the site of the home of Governor Bradford. Library, 10,330 volumes (Jennie C. McLauthlen, Librarian). Plymouth (population, 13,045) extends her hospitality to the American Library Association. The entire summer is set aside for the observance of the three hundredth anniversary of the landing of the Pilgrims. About seventy historical buildings and spots have been plainly marked for the convenience of the visitors, each one numbered for easy identification. Guides will be available, also printed information, so that every one may make his own Pilgrim tour. Pilgrim Hall is the most interesting building, for here are kept the relics of the early days. Among them are the armchairs of Governor Carver and Elder Brewster; Myles Standish's great iron dinner pot and platter; his sword, captured by the Saracens from the Persians at Jerusalem in 637, which probably came down to him from the Crusaders; John Alden's Bible, John Eliot's Indian Bible, and a "Breeches" Bible; and the cradle of Peregrine ("Pil- grim") White, the baby born on the "Mayflower." Just inside the door, from the curator's office, is a steel safe containing Gov. William Bradford's Bible, printed at Geneva in 1592. The building was erected in 1824 and remodeled in 1880. The National Monument (1888) stands on a hill overlooking the town. It is built of granite and is 81 feet high. On the main ped- estal stands the figure of Faith, the largest and finest specimen of granite statuary in the world. Upon the four buttresses, which project from the main pedestal, are seated the figures of Freedom, Morality, Education, and Law, symbolical of the principles upon which the Commonwealth was founded. Beneath these figures are alto-reliefs, representing scenes from the history of the Pilgrims: "The Departure from Delft 44 GUIDE TO HISTORIC PLACES Haven," " Signing the Compact," "The Landing at Plymouth," and "The First Treaty with the Indians." A park is being created along the water front, surrounding the Rock, and extending from Town Brook to Brewster Street. The old canopy, covering the Rock, has been removed, and a new por- tico, the gift of the Society of Colonial Dames, will be erected. Above the Rock is Cole's Hill, the first burial place of the Pilgrims. In the center of the hill a marble sarcophagus is placed by the Society of Mayflower Descendants. Inside of this are the bones of the Pilgrims, one time taken from the hill and put in the top of the canopy which formerly, covered the Rock. From this point and from Burial Hill, the monument at Province- town, twenty-five miles away, may be seen on a clear day. Man- omet is the range of misty blue hills stretching into the bay on the right, while on the left is the view of Kingston and Duxbury, with Captain's Hill and the monument to Myles Standish. On the right of Cole's Hill is the first street, Leyden Street, which extends from the harbor to Burial Hill. Here the Pilgrims built their first houses, made of logs and mortar with thatched roofs and windows of oiled paper. Town Square is at the upper end of Leyden Street and at the foot of Burial Hill. A bronze tablet marks the site where Governor Bradford's house stood. Above this is the Congregational Church, known as the "Church of the Pilgrimage," erected in 1840. Oppo- site is the Town House, built in 1749. At the head of the Square stands the First Church (Unitarian), a memorial to the Pilgrims, built by contributions sent from all over the country. This is the site of the first "Meeting House" and is open to visitors. Just above Town Square is Burial Hill, where those who survived the first winter are buried. Here stood the Old Fort and Watch Tower, overlooking the bay. From here can be seen Clark's Island, where the Pilgrims spent their first Sunday, Saquish, and "The GUIDE TO HISTORIC PLACES 45 Gurnet" lighthouse. Near the entrance to Burial Hill is Governor Bradford's monument. On a path near the rear entrance to the hill is the oldest stone — that of Edward Gray, 1681, and near the head of this path is a stone to William Crowe, 1683-84. Among other old stones are those of Thomas Clark, John Cotton, John How- land, and Dr. Francis LeBaron, the " Nameless Nobleman." At the rear entrance to Burial Hill is an exact replica of the old powder house, used at the time of the Revolution. This is made of revolu- tionary brick, and was a gift of the Sons of the American Revolu- tion. At the foot of Burial Hill, on the south side, flows Town Brook, adding much beauty to the landscape as well as furnishing valuable water power to many factories. Along the banks the Pilgrims built their first dwelling-houses. Here are the "meersteads," the name given to the plots of land bordering the Brook. The Harlow house is one of the oldest houses remaining in Plym- outh which stood within the lifetime of any of those who came in the "Mayflower." At the end of King Philip's War the fort on Burial Hill was demolished, and Sergeant Harlow obtained the timbers with which he erected this house in 1677. For two hundred and forty-four years it was owned by the Harlow family, but now belongs to the Plymouth Antiquarian Society. A few doors from Pilgrim Hall, on the tract of land once granted to Myles Standish, stands the Antiquarian House, built in 1809, now owned by the Antiquarian Society. It is furnished in the style of the period, with beautiful old furniture, china, glass, and cos- tumes. This is open to visitors, as are also the Howland house, built in 1666, and the Harlow house. On Winslow Street is the Winslow house, built in 1754 by Edward Winslow, the great-grandson of Governor Winslow. It was here that Ralph Waldo Emerson was married to Miss Lydia Jackson. 46 GUIDE TO HISTORIC PLACES The Plymouth Public Library, 16,382 volumes (Lilian C. Kerr, Librarian), is situated on North Street, not far from the Rock. There is also a public library in Manomet, part of Plymouth; 1,876 volumes (Emma M. Bartlett, Librarian). Plymouth to-day is a commercial town; its industries rank among the foremost in the country. The finest woolens in America are made here. The Plymouth Cordage Company is the largest in the world, employing about 2,000 people; its product is the standard by which all other ropes are measured. A new building has just been erected to be used as headquarters for the visiting public. In the auditorium a motion picture film will be put on every day showing how rope and binder twine are made. The production of hemp, both in the Philippines and in Mexico, is particularly inter- esting from an educational point of view. The company maintains the housing for the employees, a nurses' home, a kindergarten, and the Loring Reading Room, where books and periodicals in many different languages are much appreciated by the employees. GUIDE TO HISTORIC PLACES 47 OTHER PLACES OF INTEREST IN GREATER BOSTON Not Visited on the Foregoing Trips Belmont (population, 10,749). An attractive suburb of homes. Library, 19,047 volumes (Lucy D. Luard, Librarian). Boston & Maine Railroad from North Station, Boston. Brookline (population, 37,748). Largest American municipality still under town-meeting government. Valuation over $100,000,000. Many fine estates. Model modern library, 100,622 volumes (Louisa M. Hooper, Librarian). Trolley from Park Street, Boston, or Boston & Albany Railroad, Highland Branch, from South Station, Boston. Chelsea (population, 43,184). Manufacturing city. Great fire of 1908 destroyed 287 acres and rendered 16,000 people homeless; loss, $17,000,000. Large foreign population. United States Naval Hospital. Library has Carnegie building, 21,562 volumes (Esther C. Johnson, Librarian). Trolley from Lynn or from Scollay Square, Boston; or Boston & Maine Railroad from Swampscott or Lynn or North Station, Boston. Dedham (population, 10,792). One of the oldest towns near Boston. Fairbanks House (1636) said to be oldest wooden house in America. Many fine homes, both Colonial and modern. County seat of Norfolk County. Library, 28,686 volumes (Anna P. Rol- land, Librarian). New York, New Haven & Hartford Railroad from South Station, Boston. Everett (population, 40,120). Manufacturing city; also a resi- dence suburb for Boston. Revere Beach Boulevard passes through 48 GUIDE TO HISTORIC PLACES outskirts of Everett. Two public libraries, — Frederick E. Parlin Memorial, 32,520 volumes (Elizabeth H. Furst, Librarian), and Shute Memorial (North Everett), 12,184 volumes (Gertrude L. Smith, Librarian). Northern terminus of Boston Elevated Rail- way; also reached by trolley from Lynn or by Boston & Maine Railroad from Swampscott, Lynn or Boston. Maiden (population, 49,103). The Library is one of H. H. Richardson's beautiful Romanesque buildings (1885, with later additions) ; 75,407 volumes (Herbert W. Fison, Librarian). Boston & Maine Railroad from North Station, Boston, or trolley from Everett. Medford (population, 39,038). Settled in 1629; now a suburban city, largely residential. Roy all House (1738) fine example of Colonial mansion house. Craddock House built in 1638. Tufts College is in Medford; library, 80,000 volumes (Ethel M. Hayes, Librarian). Public Library interesting as an adaptation of a former residence to library uses, and for separate building housing children's library; 57,789 volumes (Abby L. Sargent, Librarian). Boston & Maine Railroad from North Station, Boston, or trolley from Sullivan Square station of Elevated. Melrose (population, 18,204). Typical Boston suburb of homes. Birthplace of Geraldine Farrar (pronounced Far'rar). Library has Carnegie building; 22,725 volumes (Elsie Hatch, Librarian). Trol- ley from Lynn via Saugus Center, or Boston & Maine Railroad from North Station, Boston. Milton (population, 9,382). Residence suburb, mainly of well- to-do homes. Valuation over $20,000,000. Home of Walter Baker chocolate. Library, 31,441 volumes (Carrie S. Allen, Librarian). New York, New Haven & Hartford Railroad (Milton Branch), from South Station, Boston, or trolley from Dudley Street station of Elevated. Needham (population, 7,012). Residential and manufacturing town. Library, 18,457 volumes (Grace W. Thompson, Librarian). GUIDE TO HISTORIC PLACES 49 New York, New Haven & Hartford Railroad (Needham Circuit) from South Station, Boston. Newton (population, 46,054). Principally a residential city, typical of Greater Boston. Extensive area, including so many dis- tinct settlements (Newton, Newton Centre, Newtonville, West Newton, Waban, Auburndale, and others) that strangers must take special care in going to any one. The Free Library, located at Newton proper, has an extensive branch system and house-to-house delivery of books; 108,788 volumes (Harold T. Dougherty, Li- brarian). Nearly all "the Newtons" may be reached by the Boston & Albany Railroad (either main line or branches). Newton proper may also be reached by trolley from Harvard Square, Cambridge subway, or Park Street, Boston, and from there trolleys run to all the Newtons. Norwood (population, 12,627). An attractive suburb, chiefly known as the home of the Norwood and Plimpton presses. First Massachusetts town to adopt town manager government. Library, 22,903 volumes (Jane A. Hewett, Librarian). New York, New Haven & Hartford Railroad from South Station, Boston. Peabody (population, 19,552). America's greatest tannery center. Population one-half foreign born. Birthplace of George Peabody. Peabody Institute Library, 48,978 volumes (John E. Keefe, Librarian). Eben Dale Sutton Reference Library, 4,629 volumes (Frances M. Carroll, Librarian). Trolley from Lynn or Salem, or Boston & Maine Railroad from North Station, Boston. Reading (population, 7,439). One of the older towns, with dig- nified old-time and modern homes. Library has Carnegie building, in many ways a small-town model; 10,265 volumes (Bertha L. Brown, Librarian). Boston & Maine Railroad from North Station, Boston, or trolley from Everett. Somerville (population, 93,091). A suburban residential city of restricted area but dense population. Contiguous with Boston. 50 GUIDE TO HISTORIC PLACES Library has Carnegie building and three branches, two of which are Carnegie buildings. Central building an excellent specimen of the modern public library planned for efficient service; 114,993 volumes (George Hill Evans, Librarian; Sam Walter Foss was librarian here from 1898 to his death in 1911). Central Library stands upon site of a Revolutionary fort in which were confined the Hessian prisoners taken at Burgoyne's surrender. Various trolley lines reach different parts of Somerville from different parts of Boston. For the Central Library take cars marked Highland Avenue from Park Street, Boston, or on Elevated structure in front of North Station, Boston. Stoneham (population, 7,873). Shoe manufacturing the prin- cipal industry. The greater part of the beautiful State reservation known as the Middlesex Fells, with charming Spot Pond (in reality a sizable lake), is in Stoneham. Library has attractive Carnegie building, 10,280 volumes (Albert F. Buck, Librarian). Boston & Maine Railroad (Stoneham Branch), from North Station, Boston, or trolley from Lynn via Saugus Center and Melrose. Wakefield (population, 13,025). Famous for its rattan furni- ture industry. Library, 20,006 volumes (H. Gertrude Lee, Libra- rian). Boston & Maine Railroad from North Station, Boston, or trolley from Everett. Wellesley (population, 6,224). A particularly pleasing residen- tial suburb, the seat of Wellesley College; library, 91,338 volumes (Ethel D. Roberts, Librarian). Dana Hall, a school for girls, is also located here. Public Library, 21,679 volumes (Gertrude Whit- temore, Acting Librarian). Boston & Albany Railroad from South Station, Boston. Weston (population, 2,282). One of the oldest and also one of the most attractive towns of this region. Library, 24,962 volumes (Maude M. Pennock, Librarian). Boston & Maine Railroad from North Station, Boston. GUIDE TO HISTORIC PLACES 51 Winchester (population, 10,485). A suburb of fine homes, mostly modern. Beautifully situated between the Middlesex Fells and the Mystic Lakes. Library, 24,539 volumes, at present occu- pies one wing of Town Hall (Cora A. Quimby, Librarian) . Boston & Maine Railroad from North Station, Boston, or trolley from Sullivan. Square station of Elevated, via Medford Square. Winthrop (population, 15,455). Located on a peninsula which forms the northern boundary of Boston Harbor. Famous for its surf in winter storms. Modern library building, 14,734 volumes (Dorothy L. Kinney, Librarian). Reached by shore boulevard from Swampscott, or by Boston, Revere Beach & Lynn Railroad ("Narrow Gauge") from Lynn or from Rowe's Wharf, Boston. Woburn (population, 16,574). Small suburban city with an interesting history dating from 1640. Birthplace of Benjamin Thompson, Count Rumford, and original home of the Baldwin apple. Leather manufacturing the principal industry. Public Li- brary is a fine example of H. H. Richardson's Romanesque (1878); 51,592 volumes (W. N. Seaver, Librarian). Another public library at North Woburn, the Eunice Thompson Memorial; 2,066 volumes (Andrew R. Linscott, Librarian). Boston & Maine Railroad from North Station, Boston, or trolley from Sullivan Square station of Elevated, via Medforcl Square. 52 GUIDE TO HISTORIC PLACES A FEW HELPFUL GUIDES AND READABLE BOOKS ABOUT BOSTON AND EASTERN NEW ENGLAND Bacon, E. M. Boston: A Guide Book. Ginn & Co. 1916. Literary Pilgrimages in New England. Silver, Burdett. (Cop. 1902.) Walks and Rides in the Country about Boston, covering 36 Cities and Towns. Houghton, Mifflin & Co. 1892. Brigham, A. T. Cape Cod and the Old Colony. Putnam. 1920. Crawford, M. C. Old Boston Days and Ways. Little, Brown & Co. 1913. Romantic Days in Old Boston. Little, Brown & Co. 1910. ■ St. Botolph's Town. Page & Co. 1908. Drake, S. A. Historic Mansions and Highways about Boston. Little, Brown & Co. 1899. French, Allen, and L. G. Hornby. Old Concord. Little, Brown & Co. 1915. Garrett, E. H. The Pilgrim Shore. Little, Brown & Co. 1900. Romance and Reality of the Puritan Coast. Little, Brown & Co. 1902. Hawthorne, Hildegarde. Old Seaport Towns of New England. Dodd, Mead & Co. 1916. Lacock, J. K. Boston and Vicinity. (Guide to Landmarks.) Perry and Elliott. 1917. Rand, McNally Boston Guide. Rand, McNally & Co. (Cop. 1920.) Rothery, A. E. The Old Coast Road. Houghton, Mifflin Co. 1920. Sargent, P. E. Handbook of New England. Published by the author. 1917. Shackleton, Robert. Book of Boston. Penn Publishing Company. 1916. Swayne, J. L. Story of Concord. E. F. Worcester. 1906. Swift, Lindsay. Literary Landmarks of Boston. Houghton, Mifflin Co. 1903. LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 014 065 621 5 '•