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 THE 
 EXPERT DESIGNER 
 
 A Practical and Up-to-date Work 
 on the Art of Designing and Pat- 
 tern-Making of Women's Cloaks 
 Suits Waists Dresses and Skirts 
 
 By 
 Prof. S. SCHORR 
 
 Publishers 
 
 AMERICAN PATTERN COMPANY 
 
 New York 
 
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 COPYRIGHT 1917. BY SAUL SCHORR 
 
 Entered according to act of Congress in the office 
 
 of the Librarian of Congress at Washingtoto,.^ 
 
 D. C. and any infringements on the 
 
 Copyright will be prosecuted to 
 
 the fullest extent of 
 
 the law. 
 
 ©GU47S4n7 
 SEP 10 191/ 
 
RELATIVE PROPORTION MEASUREMENT FOR FEMALE 
 
 BUST 24 26 28 .■;0 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 
 
 Waist 24 24 24 24 24 24 25 26 28 30 M 
 
 Hips 26 28 30 il 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 
 
 Scye depth S'U 6'4 6'4 7 7^4 7>o 7% 8 814 8J/2 ■S.% 
 
 Waist length 12 13 13), 14 14U 15 15jo 15>o I53.0 \5% 15% 
 
 Across Back 10 lO'-i 11 iV/z 12 12J/0 13 ^ 133-^0 14 uy, IS 
 
 Strap 8-% 934 9% 1034 10% 1134 11% 1234 12% 1334 13% 
 
 Over-shoulder U 11% 123'2 1334 14 14-4 15 34 16% 17 17% 1834 
 
 17 '.J 18 
 
 18 18 
 
 Acr.Chest aver 1 1 3 
 
 I 12% 13 
 
 13% 14': 
 
 15% 16 
 
 163: 
 
 17 
 
 Sleeve 1 
 
 12 14 
 
 16 17 
 
 1732 18 
 
 18 
 
 18 
 
 Note, l^he Across Chest and Across Bust measures having been added together and 
 divided in half, thus giving the Average Across Chest measure. 
 
HOW TO TAKE MEASUREMENT 
 
 Fig. 101 Place the tape measure from the center of back neck over the shoulder, 
 continue down the front of shoulder, under the arm, and straight across the center back 
 seam in a horisontal line- Place a pin or make a light chalk mark where the tape measure 
 meets the center back seam horisontally. 
 
 Fig. 1 02 Scye Depth Measure : Measure from the center of back neck to the point 
 where the pin had been placed or the chalk mark has been made. 
 
THE EXPERT DESIGNER 
 
 BY S. SCHORR 
 
 Diagram 101 
 
 Diagram 102 
 
Fig. 103. Back Wais Length Measure : From the center of back neck down to the 
 to the natural waist length.- Continue down to the full length as desired. 
 
 Fig. 104. Across Back Measure : This measure is taken from one arm scye to the 
 other across the back. 
 
THE EXPERT DESIGNER 
 
 BY S. SCHORR 
 
 Diagram 103 
 
 Diagram 104 
 
Fig. 105. Over Shoulder Measure : From the depth of scye on the back seam over 
 the shoulder and down to the level of the bottom of scye in front. 
 
 Fig. 106 Front Waist length Measure : From the center of back neck to the center 
 of waist at front. 
 
THE EXPERT DESIGNER 
 
 BY S. SCHORR 
 
 Diagram 105 
 
 Diagram 106 
 
Fig. 107. Bust Depth Measure : From the center of back neck to the brow of bust. 
 Fig. 108. Strap Measure : From the center of back neck to the bottom of scye in 
 
 front. 
 
THE EXPERT DESIGNER 
 
 BY S. SCHORR 
 
 
 Diagram 107 
 
 Diagram 108 
 
Fig. 1 09. Side Waist Length Measure : From the center of back neck to the waist 
 at the side. 
 
 Fig. I 10 Sleeve Length : From the center of back neck to the wrist at front; the in- 
 seam of the sleeve to be found by deducting the Strap measure from the sleeve length 
 measure. 
 
THE EXPERT DESIGNER 
 
 BY S. SCHORR 
 
 Diagram 109 
 
 Diagram 110 
 
Fig. 111. Across Chest Measure ; From the front of scye on one side to the front 
 of scye on the other. 
 
 Fig. i 12. Across Bust Measure : From the top of the front of scye over the fullest 
 part of the bust up to corresponding point on the other side. 
 
THE EXPERT DESIGNER 
 
 BY S. SCHORR 
 
 Diagram 111 
 
 Diagram 112 
 
Fig. 1 1 3. Around Bust Measure : This measurement is to be taken easily around 
 the fullest part of bust and well up unher the arm. 
 
 Fig. I 14. Around Waist Measure : Around the waist taken closely. 
 
THE EXPERT DESIGNER 
 
 BY S. SCHORR 
 
 Diagram 113 
 
 Diagram 114 
 
Fig. 115. Around Hips Measure : About 7 inches below the waist taken fairly 
 around the hips. 
 
 MEASUREMENT FOR SKIRTS 
 
 Diagram 1 I 6 
 
 1-1 Around the waist. - 2-2 Around the hips. - 3-4 Front length. - 1-5 Side length. 
 
 6-7 Back length 
 
THE EXPERT DESIGNER 
 
 BY S. SCHORR 
 
 Diagram 115 
 
 Diagram 116 
 
Measurement 
 
 1 -2 Scye Depth 
 
 1-3 Back Waist Length 
 4-4 Across the Back 
 2-3-6 Over Shoulder 
 
 1-6 Strap 
 
 1-7 Front Waist Length 
 
 1 -8 Bust Depth 
 
 1-9 Side Waist Length 
 6-10 Sleeve Length 
 
 11-11 Across Chest 
 6-6 Across Bust 
 6-2-6 Around the Bust 
 9-3-9 Around the Waist 
 
 12-12 Around the Hips 
 
 Measurement for Skirts 
 
 9-9 Waist, 12-12 Hips, 7-13 Front length, 9-14 Side length 
 9-13 Back length 
 
THE EXPERT DESIGNER 
 
 BY S. SCHORR 
 
 Diagram 117 
 
Systematic Outline 
 
 Diagram 2. 
 MEASUREMENT 
 
 Scje depth S inches 
 
 Back Waist Icnirth I 5 ' j inches 
 
 Across Back 14 inches 
 
 Over-Shoulder 16' 4 inches 
 
 Strap 12 '4 inches 
 
 Front-Waist lenjith Mearure 22' 
 
 Bust Depth 16 inches 
 
 inche 
 
 Side-Waist lenyth 2{)^ -^ inches 
 Sleeve length 18 inches 
 Across Chest 15 inches 
 Across Bust 19 inches 
 Around Bust 40 inches 
 Around Waist 28 inches 
 Around Hips 4 I inches 
 
 TO DRAFT 
 
 A. Draw a straigth line as from A to D. 
 
 B from A is the Scye-depth measure, 8 in. 
 
 C from A is the Back-Waist length. 15' j in. 
 
 D from C is 6 inches 
 
 Square out lines from A. B, C and D 
 
 E from B is the halt Bust measure and 4 in. 
 more for seams, in this case 24 inches 
 
 F is the half-«ay between B and E. 
 
 G is the half-way between E and F. 
 
 His the half-way hetween B and F. 
 
 1 from A is 5 ' _■ inches. 
 
 J from I is 2 '4 inches on line squared from I. 
 Draw a line from A to J. 
 
 K from A is half of the distance hetween B-H 
 
 L is located d\ a line squared out from K. 
 
 M from H is 2 inches or by measure IVl 
 from B is the half Across back measure anh 1 
 inch more, in this case 8 inches 
 
 N from M is ] '4 inch less than the Scye- 
 depth measure, in this case 6 '4 inches. 
 
 O from N is ';. inch on line drawn from L 
 trough N. 
 
 P is the center hetween N and M. 
 Draw a line from O to P. 
 
 R is located on line squared up from G hy 
 
 applying the Strap measure and '4 inch more 
 in this case I 3 inches, measering from A to L 
 and continued from G to R. 
 
 S from G is .< ' 4 inch, or by measure S from 
 E is the half average chest measure snd '4 inch 
 more, in this case 9, '4 inches. To find the av- 
 erage chest measure take the half across chest 
 
 'Vi^ 
 
 nches, add this to the half across bust 
 
 measure 9' 2 inches - together I 7 inches ;half 
 of that amount is 8' 2 anh '4 inch more makes 
 9'4 inches. 
 
 T is located on line squared up from S by 
 appl\infr the Over Shoulder measure and 1/4 
 inch more, in this case 17/^ inches, measurin 
 from B to about the middle of line L - O and 
 continued from S to T. 
 
 U is located by drawing a line from R trough 
 T and is from R th; same length as O from L. 
 
 V from S IS 2 inches. 
 
 Draw a line from U to V. 
 
 W fr 
 
 R 
 
 inchc 
 
 X from W is '4 inch more than K from A. 
 
 Draw a line from X to E. 
 Y is located by a line squared down from E. 
 Z is located by a line squared down from F. 
 
 NOTICE 
 
 To all Diagrams - designed in this Systematic Outline - are seam allowances of 's inch allowed. 
 In all Diagrams - designed in this Systematic Oudine - is the Waist measure 14 iiu hes less than 
 
 the Bust measure, and the Hips I inch more than the Bust measure. 
 See Waist- and Hi]:) measure alterations by Diagram i. 
 
THE EXPERT DESIGNER 
 
 BY S. SCHORR 
 
 Diagram 2 
 
Tight-Fitting with One Dart 
 
 Diagram 3. 
 
 First lay up all points to your measure 
 as described in Systematical Outline, then 
 continue as follows: 
 
 1 from Z is '/2 inch. 
 
 2 from Y is 2 '4 inches. 
 
 Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 
 
 23 from 15 is % inch for seam. 
 
 Shape both side-gores as represented. 
 
 24 from 10 is % inch, and is from 9 the 
 same length as 9 to 10. 
 
 25 from 1 1 is 1 Vz inches. 
 
 Shape lines 9-24-25 as represented. 
 
 through 2 as represented for the fashionable 26 from 2 is 1 % inches. 
 
 waist line. 
 
 3 from C is 2 inches. 
 
 4 from D is 1% inches. 
 
 5 from 3 is 1 inch less than the distance 
 from A to K. 
 
 27 is located by drawing a line from E 
 through 26. 
 
 28 from G is 3'/4 inches. 
 
 29 from 28 is 2 inches on line drawn par- 
 allel with line 1-2. 
 
 6 from 4 is % inch more than the distance 30 is located by drawing a line from 29 
 from 3 to 5. parallel with line E-26. 
 
 Shape back part as represented. 31 from 30 is l'^ inches. 1 
 
 7 from 5 is % inch. 32 from 30 is 2% inches. 
 
 8 from 6 is 1 inch. 33 from 29 is the same length as 31 from 
 
 9 from F is Va inch. 29. 
 
 10 from 1 is % inch. Draw a line from 24 to 33 for the run 
 
 1 1 is located by drawing a line from 9 of the waist line. 
 
 through 10. 34 is located by drawing a line from 31 
 
 12 is the half-way between H and 9. parallel with line E-27. 
 
 13 is the half-way between 7 and 10. 35 from 34 is % inch more than the dis- 
 
 14 is located by drawing a line from 12 tance from 31 to 32. 
 
 through 13. 
 
 15 from 12 is 1 inch. 
 
 16 from 13 is Vz inch. 
 
 17 from 13 is Vz inch. 
 
 18 from 14 is 1 inch. 
 
 19 from 14 is 1 inch. 
 
 20 from 11 is Vz inch. 
 
 21 from P is Vz inch. 
 
 22 from 21 is Vs inch for seam. 
 
 3S from 27 is Vs inch. 
 
 Shape the center of front; finish on the 
 front the neck gorge, shoulder, armhole and 
 dart as represented. 
 
 37 from 10 is the same length as 25 from 
 24. 
 
 38 from 35 is 1 '^ inches. 
 
 39 from 31 is the same length as 38 from 
 33. 
 
 Finish the bottom as represented. 
 
 WAIST SUPPRESSION. 
 
 By applying this System the half Waist measure is with 7 inches less than the half Bust measure. 
 For instance, 20 half Bust has 13 half Waist measure, 24 half Bust has 17 half Waist measure, 17 half 
 Bust has 10 hfllf Waist measure, etc. 
 
 It is Very easy to change the draft to your actual Waist measure, by following the instructions as below: 
 
 The difference between the half actual Waist mea'ure and the half systematical Waist measure is to 
 be added to by larger actual waist measure and to be taken off by smaller actual waist measure at the front dart. 
 
 For instance by dralting a pattern with 40 bust measure the half of the systematical waist measure 
 will be 13 inches, and if the half of your actual waist measure is 13'/2 inches, than you have to take out at 
 the front dart Vz inch less: in this case take out on the draft from 30 to 32 only 2Vi inches. 
 
 By drafting a pattern of 44 Bust measure the half of the systematical waist measure will be 15 
 inches, and if the half of your actual waist measure is only 14 '/2 inches than you have to take out at the 
 front dart Vz inch more; in this case take out 3'/4 inches on draft from 30 to 32. 
 
 HIPS DEVELOPMENT. 
 
 By applying this System the half Hips measure is with Vl inch more than the half Bust measure. For 
 instance 20 half Bust has 20'/2 half Hips measure, 24 half Bust has 24'/2 half Hips measure, etc. 
 
 It is very easy to change the draft to your actual Hips measure by following the instruction as below: 
 
 The difference between the half actual Hips measure and the half systematical Hips measure is to be 
 added to by larger actual Hips measure and to be taken off by smaller actual Hips measure on the hip line 
 equally divided at potnts 8, 19, 18, 25 and 20. 
 
 For instance bv drafting a pattern of 40 Bust measure the half of the systematical Hips measure will 
 be 2OV2 inches, and if the half of your actual Hips measure is 22'/2 inches, than you have to allow 2 inches 
 on the hip line equally divided at points 8, 19, 18, 25 and 20, and vica-verse. 
 
THE EXPERT DESIGNER 
 
 BY S. SCHORR 
 
 Diagram 3 
 
Tight-Fitting with Two Darts 
 
 Diagram 4. 
 
 First lay up all points to your measure 
 as described in Systematical Outline, then 
 continue as follows: 
 
 1 from Z is '/i inch. 
 
 2 from Y is ZVa inches. 
 
 Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 
 through 2 as represented for the fashionable 
 waist line. 
 
 3 from C is 2 inches. 
 
 4 from D is 1 ^^ inches. 
 
 5 from 3 is 1 inch less than the distance 
 from A to K. 
 
 G from 4 is % inch more than the distance 
 from 3 to 5. 
 Shape back part as represented. 
 
 7 from 5 is % inch. 
 
 8 from 6 is 1 inch. 
 
 9 from F is % inch. 
 
 10 from 1 is % inch. 
 
 1 1 is located by drawing a line from 9 
 through 10. 
 
 12 is the half-way between H and 9. 
 
 13 is the half-way betv/een 7 and 10. 
 
 14 is located by drawing a line from 12 
 through 13. 
 
 15 from 12 is 1 inch. 
 
 16 from 13 is Vz inch. 
 
 17 from 13 is Vz inch. 
 
 18 from 14 is 1 inch. 
 
 19 from 14 is 1 inch. 
 
 20 from 1 1 is Vz inch. 
 
 21 from P is Vz inch. 
 
 22 fr 
 
 21 
 
 h fc 
 
 IS ^.s men tor seam 
 
 23 from 15 is -Vh inch for seam. 
 
 Shape both side-gores as represented. 
 
 24 from 10 is % inch, and is from 9 the 
 same length as 9 to 10. 
 
 25 from 11 is IVz inches. 
 
 Shape lines 9-24-25 as represented. 
 
 26 from 2 is 1% inches. 
 
 27 is located by drawing a line from E 
 through 26. 
 
 28 from G is 3!4 inches. 
 
 29 is located by drawing a line through 31 
 parallel with line 1-2. 
 
 30 is located by drawing a line from 29 
 through 28. 
 
 31 is the half-way between 29 and 30. 
 
 32 is the half-way between 29 and 31. 
 
 33 is located by drawing a line from 32 par- 
 allel with line 29-26. 
 
 34 from 33 is % inch. 
 
 35 from 33 is % inch. 
 
 36 from 32 is the same length as 34 from 
 32. 
 
 37 from 35 is 1 inch less than the distance 
 from A to K. 
 
 38 from 37 is 2 inches. 
 
 39 from 31 is the same length as 37 from 
 31. 
 
 Draw a line from 24 to 39 for the run 
 of the waist line. 
 
 40 is located by drawing a line from 34 par- 
 allel with line 26-27. 
 
 41 from 40 is l'^ inches. 
 
 42 from 41 is V4 inch more than the dis- 
 tance from 35 to 37. 
 
 43 from 42 is 2'/2 inches. 
 
 Shape the center of front; finish on the 
 front the neck, shoulder, armhole and darts 
 as represented. 
 
 44 from 10 is the same length as 25 from 
 24. 
 
 45 from 43 is 1 V4 inches. 
 
 46 from 37 is the same length as 45 from 
 39. 
 
 47 from 27 is Ys inch. 
 
 Finish the bottom as represented. 
 
THE EXPERT DESIGNER 
 
 BY S. SCHORR 
 
 Diagram 4 
 
Tight-Fitting Back and Semi-Fitting Front 
 
 Diagram 5. 
 
 First lay up all points to your measure 
 as described in Systematical Outline, then 
 continue as follows: 
 
 1 from Z is '/j inch. 
 
 2 from Y is 2'/t inches. 
 
 Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 
 through 2 as represented for the fashionable 
 waist line. 
 
 3 from C is 2 inches. 
 
 4 from D is 1% inches. 
 
 5 from 3 is 1 inch less than the distance 
 from A to K. 
 
 6 from 4 is % inch more than the distance 
 from 3 to 5. 
 
 Shape back part as represented. 
 
 7 from 5 is % inch. 
 
 8 from 6 is 1 inch. 
 
 9 from F is -/i inch. 
 
 10 from 1 is % inch. 
 
 1 1 is located by drav/ing a line from 9 
 through 10. 
 
 12 is the half-way between H and 9. 
 
 13 is the half-way between 7 and 10. 
 
 14 is located by drawing a line from 12 
 through 13. 
 
 15 from 12 is 1 inch. 
 
 16 from 13 is Vz inch. 
 
 17 from 13 is Vz inch. 
 
 18 from 14 is 1 inch. 
 
 19 from 14 is 1 inch. 
 
 20 from 1 1 is '/? inch. 
 
 21 from P is Vz inch. 
 
 22 from 21 is % inch for seam. 
 
 23 from 15 is Vs inch for seam. 
 
 Shape both side-gores as represented. 
 
 24 from 10 is % inch, and is from 9 the 
 same length as 9 to 10. 
 
 25 from 1 1 is 1 Vz inches. 
 
 Shape lines 9-24-25 as represented. 
 
 2G from 2 is 2 inches. 
 
 Draw line from E through 26. 
 
 27 from G is SVa inches. 
 
 23 from 27 is 2 inches on line drawn par- 
 allel with line 1-2. 
 
 29 is located by drawing a line from 28 
 parallel with line E~26. 
 
 30 is located by drawing a line from 28 
 through 29. 
 
 31 from 29 is Vz inch. 
 
 32 from 30 is % inch. 
 
 33 from 29 is 2Vz inches. 
 
 34 from 28 is the same length as 31 from 
 28. 
 
 Draw a line from 24 to 34 for the run 
 of waist line. 
 
 35 from 30 is 3'/4 inches. 
 
 Finish the front as represented. 
 
 36 from 10 is the same length as 25 from 
 24. 
 
 37 from 35 is 1 '^ inches. 
 
 38 from 31 is the same length as 37 from 
 34. 
 
 Finish the bottom as represented. 
 
THE EXPERT DESIGNER 
 
 BY S. SCHORR 
 
 Diagram 5 
 
Blouse 
 
 Diagram 6. 
 
 First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematical Outline, then 
 continue as follows : 
 
 1 from Z is '/i inch. 
 
 2 from Y is 2'/} inches. 
 
 Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 to 2 for the fashionable waist line as represented. 
 
 3 from C is 2 inches. 
 
 4 is the half-way between F and M. 
 
 5 from 4 is % inch. 
 
 6 from 1 is 4 inches 
 
 Finish the back as represented. 
 
 7 from 4 is % inch. 
 
 8 is located by drawing a line from X through E, and is from E the same length as 
 2 from E. 
 
 Finish the front as represented. 
 
THE EXPERT DESIGNER 
 
 BY S. SCHORR 
 
 Diagram 6 
 
Basque or Tunic Skirt 
 
 Diagram 7. 
 
 Measurers 
 
 Waist 26 inches. Hips 42 inches. 
 
 To Draft 
 
 A. Draw a straight line as from A to 1. 
 
 B from A is the half Waist measure, in this case 13 inches, 
 C from B is 6 inches. 
 D from A is 2 inches. 
 
 E from D is 1 inch on line squared dawn from D. 
 F is located by a line sweeped from B, pivoting at A. 
 
 G is located by a line sweeped from C, pivoting at A, and is from C 'A 'nch more than the 
 half Hips measure, in this case 2IV2 inches. 
 
 B--C is the front iine, and F--G is the back line. 
 
 To Lengthen the Skirt 
 
 1 is located by drawing a line from B through C to the length measure as desired. 
 
 2 is located by drawing a line from F through G to the length measure as desired. 
 
 3 is the center between B and F. 
 
 4 from 1 is 1 V2 inches less than the half distance between 1 and 2, and is from 3 .the 
 length as desired. 
 
 5 is located by drawing a line from 3 to 4. 
 
 6 from 5 is 1 inch. 
 
 7 from 4 is the half difference between the width of bottom from 1 to 2 and the width 
 of bottom as required. 
 
 8 from 4 is the half difference between the width of bottom from 1 to 2 and the width 
 of bottom as required. 
 
 Cut out the space 6--7--8-6 as represented, and join together 6--7 with 6--8 to get 
 the Dart on the waist line as represented on the bottom draft 3-6-3. 
 
 NOTICE: On this draft are seams not allovk^ed. 
 
THE EXPERT DESIGNER 
 
 BY S. SCHORR 
 
 Diagram 7 
 
Shirt Waist 
 
 Diagram 8 
 
 First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematical Outline, then 
 continue as follows: 
 
 1 from Z is '/2 inch. 
 
 2 from Y is 2 '/i inches. 
 
 Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 to 2 for the fashionable waistline as represented. 
 
 3 from C is 4 inches. 
 
 4 from 1 is 4 inches. 
 
 5 is located by a line squared up from D. 
 
 Draw lines between 3-4 and 5 as represented. 
 
 6 from C is 2 inches. 
 
 7 from 4 is % inch. 
 
 Draw Imes A.6-7 for tight-fitting back, and for loose back draw line from A to 7 
 
 8 is the center of F-M. 
 
 9 from 8 is Vi inch. 
 
 10 from 8 is 1/2 inch. 
 
 1 1 from 1 is 4 inches. 
 
 12 is the center of 1-11. 
 
 13 from 12 is 21/2 inches. 
 
 1 4 is located by drawing a line from X through E and is from E the same length as 5 from E. 
 
 Finish front and back as represented. 
 
 The back center for tight-fitting back is A.6.7 and for gathering the back at the waist 
 allow fulness m the waist by drawing a line from A to 3 as represented. 
 
THE EXPERT DESIGNER 
 
 BY S. SCHORR 
 
 Diagram 8 
 
Shirt Waist with Side Gore 
 
 Diagram 9 
 
 First lay up all points to measure as described in Systematical Outline then continue 
 as follows: 
 
 1 from Z is '/a inch, 
 
 2 from Y is 2Vi inches. 
 
 Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 to 2 for the fashionable waist line as represented. 
 
 3 from C is 4 inches. 
 
 4 from 1 is 4 inches. 
 
 5 is located by a line squared up from D. 
 
 6 from C is 2 inches. 
 
 7 from 3 is 1% inches. 
 
 8 from M is 1 '^ inches. 
 
 9 from 8 is V2 inch. 
 
 10 from 6 is 1 inch more than the space from A to K. 
 
 1 1 from 7 is 1 inch more than the space from 6 to 10. 
 
 12 is located by shaping the line from 9 to 10, 
 
 Finish the back part as represented. 
 
 13 from 10 is % inch. 
 
 14 from 11 is IV2 inches and is from 13 the same length as 11 from 10 
 
 1 5 from F is % inch. 
 
 16 from 1 is % inch. 
 
 Draw line from 15 to 16. 
 
 17 from 16 is % inch. 
 
 18 from 1 is 1 inch. 
 
 19 is the centre of 17-18. 
 
 20 from 19 ts 21/2 inches. 
 
 21 is located by drawing a line from X through E, and is from E the same length as 5 from E 
 
 Finish the side gore and front as represented. 
 
THE EXPERT DESIGNER 
 
 BY S. SCHORR 
 
 Diagram 9 
 
Tight- Fitting Waist Lining 
 
 Diagram 10 
 
 First lay up all points to measure as described in Systematical Outline, then continue 
 as follows: 
 
 1 from Z is '72 inch. 
 
 2 from Y is 2'^ inches. 
 
 Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 through 2 for the fashionable waist line as 
 represented. 
 
 3 from C is 4 inches. 
 
 4 from 1 is 4 inches. 
 
 5 is located by a line sciuared up from D. 
 
 Draw lines between 3-4 and 5 as represented. 
 
 6 from C is 2 inches. 
 
 7 from 3 is % inch. 
 
 8 is the centre of F-M. 
 
 9 from 8 is % inch. 
 
 10 from 8 is % inch. 
 
 1 1 from 1 is 4 inches. 
 
 12 is the centre of 1-1 1. 
 
 13 from 12 is 2'/2 inches. 
 
 Finish back part as represented: 
 
 14 from 2 is 1% inches. 
 
 15 is located by drawing a line from E through 14. 
 
 16 from G is 3'^ inches. 
 
 17 from 16 is IVz inches on line drawn parallel with line 1-2. 
 
 18 is located by drawing a line from 17 parallel with line E-14. 
 
 19 from 18 is 1 '/4 inches. 
 
 20 from 18 is 2% inches. 
 
 21 from 17 is the same length as 19 from 17. 
 
 22 is located by drawing a line from 19 parallel with line 14-15. 
 
 23 from 22 is 4% inches. 
 
 24 from 1 5 is % inch. 
 
 Finish the front and back as represented. 
 
THE EXPERT DESIGNER 
 
 BY S. SCHORR 
 
 Diagram 10 
 
Tight- Fitting Waist Lining with Side Gore 
 
 Diagram 1 1 
 
 First lay up all points to measure as described in Systematical Outline, then continue 
 as follows: 
 
 1 from Z is Yz inch. 
 
 2 from Y is ZVz inches. 
 
 Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 through 2 for the fashionable waist line as 
 represented. 
 
 3 from C is 4 inches. 
 
 4 from 1 is 4 inches. 
 
 5 is located by a line squared up from D. 
 
 Draw lines between 3-4 and 5 as represented. 
 
 6 from C is 2 inches. 
 
 7 from 3 is 1% inch. 
 
 8 from 12 is 1 '/) inches. 
 
 9 from 8 is V2 inch. 
 
 10 from 6 is 1 inch more than the distance from A to K. 
 
 11 from 7 is 1 inch more than the distance from 6 to 10. 
 
 12 is located by shaping a line from 9 to 10. 
 
 Finish back part as represented. 
 
 13 from 10 is % inch. 
 
 14 from 1 1 is Wz inches, and is from 13 the same length as 1 1 from 10. 
 
 15 from F is % inch, 
 
 16 from 1 is % inch. 
 
 Draw line from 15 to 16. 
 
 17 from 16 is % inch. 
 
 18 from 1 is 1 inch. 
 
 19 is the centre of 17-18. 
 
 20 from 19 is ZVz inches. 
 
 21 from 2 is 1% inches. 
 
 22 is located by drawing a line from E through 21. 
 
 23 from. Gis 3'/4 inches. 
 
 24 is located by drawing a line through 26 parallel with line 1-2. 
 
 25 is located by drawing a line from 24 through 26. 
 
 26 is ttie centre of 24-25. 
 
 27 is ttie centre of 24-26. 
 
 28 is located by drawing a line from 27 parallel with line E-21. 
 2y from 28 is %; inch. 
 
 3u trom 28 is % inches. 
 
 31 IS located by drawing a line from 29 parallel with line 21-22. 
 
 3'Z trom 31 is 1 '/4 inches. 
 
 33 30 is 1 mch less than the distance from A to K. 
 
 3t trom 32 is V4 inch more than the distance from 30 to 33. 
 
 3d trom 33 is 2 inches. 
 
 3o trom 26 is the same length as 33 from 26. 
 
 3/ trom 34 is 2 ',4 inches. 
 
 36 trom 22 is % inch. 
 
 Shape front and side gore as represented. 
 
THE EXPERT DESIGNER 
 
 BY S. SCHORR 
 
 Diagram 1 1 
 
Sleeve Construction for Waist 
 
 Diagram l2 
 
 1 Draw a straight line as from 1 to 2. 
 
 2 from 1 is the sleeve length measure. 
 
 Square a line up from 2. 
 
 3 from 1 is a quarter of the full bust m.easure on a line squared up from 1. 
 
 4 is located by a line squared out from 3 as represented. 
 
 5 is the centre of 1-2. 
 
 6 is located by a line squared up from 5. 
 
 7 is the centre of 2-4. 
 
 8 is the Centre of 1-3. 
 
 Square out a line from 8 as represented. 
 
 9 from 8 is 2 inches. 
 
 10 from 8 is the same length as 8 from 1. 
 
 1 1 from 1 is 2 inches. 
 
 Draw lines between 11-10 and from 10 through 3. 
 
 12 is the centre of 10-11. 
 
 13 is the centre of 3-10. 
 
 14 from 12 is Wz inches. 
 
 15 from 13 is % inch. 
 
 16 from 3 is Vz inch. 
 
 17 from 3 is Vainch. 
 
 18 from 6 is 2 inches. 
 
 19 from 5 is 3 inches. 
 
 20 from 7 is 2 inches. 
 
 Draw a line from 4 through 20. 
 
 21 from 20 is 1 inch. 
 
 22 from 20 is 1 inch. 
 
 23 from 4 is V2 inch. 
 
 24 from 21 is '/> inch. 
 
 Draw all construction lines as represented. 
 
 Sleeve for Waist 
 
 Diagram 13 
 
 First lay up all points to measure as described in Sleeve Construction for waist 
 then continue as follows: 
 
 Shape the top sleeve as represented dy lines between 11-10-17-18-4-22-5-11. 
 Shape the under sleeve as represented by lines between 9-16-18-23-24-19-9. 
 
THE EXPERT DESIGNER 
 
 BY S. SCHORR 
 
 
 ''^--^ 1 
 
 
 VJ^ 
 
 >3 
 
 
 izyi 
 
 
 6 
 
 ^^^-^^^^^.^-^^^ 
 
 
 
 ^^~~^^^^^.,^^^ 
 
 
 ==:==^^^^^^^^^ 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 • 
 
 18 
 
 
 
 ^><^^ 
 
 
 ^^^^^^^---^ 
 
 
 84 
 
 
 <A 
 
 J20 
 
 ■-^ 
 
 9 
 
 22"^^^ 
 
 \^^ 
 
 19 
 
 
 
 12«/ 
 /l4 
 
 4 
 
 2 ^^^^\^ 
 
 9 ^ 
 
 5 
 
 f 
 
 \ 
 
 F 
 
 11 / 
 
 Diagram 12 
 
 Diagram 13 
 
Collars 
 
 Ulster Collar 
 
 Diagram A 
 
 1-2. Draw a line from i through 2 to 3. 
 
 3 from 2 is '4 inch more than the width of 
 the baak neck. 
 
 4 from 3 is 1*4 inches on line squared 
 down from 3. 
 
 5 from 1 is I '4 inchs on line squared 
 down from I . 
 
 Draw a straight line from 5 to 4. 
 Draw a line for the collar stand from 
 3 through 2 to 3. 
 
 6 from 3 is the collar width as desired on 
 line squared out from 3. 
 
 7 from 6 is '4 inch for spring. 
 
 Shape the collar as indicated. 
 
 Standing or Military Collar 
 
 Die 
 
 B 
 
 1 -2. Draw a Ime from 1 through 2 to 3. 
 
 3 from 2 is '4 inch more than the width 
 of the back neck. 
 
 Square up and down from 3 
 
 4 from 3 is I inch. 
 
 5 from 3 is I inch. 
 
 6 from 1 is I ' I inches. 
 
 Shape the collar as represented. 
 
 Stand-Rolling Ulster Collar 
 
 Diagram C 
 
 1-2 Draw a line from I through 2 to 3 
 
 3 from 2 is "4 inch more than the width of 
 th back neck. 
 
 4 from 3 is i '4 inches on line squared 
 down from 3. 
 
 5 from I is I '4 inches. 
 
 6 from 4 is the width of collar desired on 
 on line squared down from 4. 
 
 7 from 6 is '4 inch for spring. 
 
 Shape the collar as indicated. 
 
 The stand at 5-2-3 is to be stretched. 
 
 Stand-rolling Military Collar 
 
 Diagram D 
 
 I -2 Draw a line from I through 2 to 3. 
 
 3 from 2 is ' ( inch more than the width 
 of the back neck. 
 
 Squre up and down from 3. 
 
 4 from 3 is I inch. 
 
 5 from 3 is I inch. 
 
 6 from I is I' t inches. 
 
 7 from 5 is the width of the roll collar as 
 desired. 
 
 8 fom 7 is ^ 2 inch for spring. 
 
 9 from 6 is the width as desired. 
 
 Finish the collar as represented. 
 The outer leaf of the collar line 9-7-8 
 must be slightly stretched. 
 
 Roll and Button High Collar 
 
 Diagram E 
 
 1 is the soulder point. 
 
 2 from 1 is 1*4 inches, 
 
 3 is the end of the break of lapel. 
 
 4 is located by drawing a line from 3 to 2. 
 
 Draw a line from 4 through I to 5. 
 
 5 from I is '4 inch more than the width of 
 the back neck. 
 
 6 from 5 is 1 '4 inches on line squared 
 down from 5. 
 
 7 from 5 is the width of the collar desired 
 on line squared up from 5. 
 
 8 from 7 is ' j inch for spring. 
 
 Finish the collar as represented. 
 
 Standing Lay Down Collar 
 from two pieces 
 
 Diagram F 
 
 1-2-3-4 is the standing collar, which was 
 produced accordingly Diagram B. 
 
 5 from 1 is 1 '4 inches, and is the same 
 length from 2 as I from 2. 
 
 6 from 2 is the widtli of tiie collar desired 
 on line drawn from 2 through 3. 
 
 7 from 6 is ' _■ inch for spring. 
 
 Finish the collar as represented. 
 
 Storm Collar 
 
 Diagram G 
 
 For producing this collar take a stand- 
 ing collar and cut it in three pieces. 
 1-2 IS the bottom of standing collar. 
 3-4 is the top of standing collar. 
 5-6 are located by dividing the b„ltom of 
 
 three parts. 
 7-8 are produced by dividing the top line 
 of the collar of three parts. 
 
 Depart the pieces at point 7 and 8 so 
 far as much fulness you desire and finish 
 the collar as represented. 
 
 Allow for seams between the pieces. 
 
 Flat Collar 
 
 Diagram H 
 
 For producing this collar put to gether 
 the front and back at the shoulder so, that 
 they should overlap '4 inch for taking the 
 seams off, and mark the collar to shape 
 desired. 
 
THE EXPERT DE :NER 
 
 BY S. SCHORR 
 
 Diagrams 14-20 
 
Tight-Fitting Eton with One Dart 
 
 Diagram 21. 
 
 First lay up all points to measure as described in Systematical Outline, then con- 
 tinue as follows: 
 
 1 from Z is '/i inch. 
 
 2 from Y is 2V^ inches. 
 
 Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 through 2 for the fashionable waist line as 
 represented. 
 
 3 from C is 2 inches. 
 
 4 is the half-way between F and M. 
 
 5 from 4 is % inch. 
 
 6 from 1 is 4 inches. 
 
 Finish the back as represented. 
 
 7 from 4 is % inch. 
 
 8 from 2 is 1% inches. 
 
 Draw a line from E to 8. 
 
 9 from G is 3'^ inches. 
 
 10 from 9 is IVz inches on line drawn from 9 parallel with line 1-2. 
 
 11 is located by drawing a line from 10 parallel with line E-8. 
 
 12 from 1 1 is IV^inches. 
 
 13 from 11 is 2% inches. 
 
 14 from 10 is the same length as 12 from 10. 
 
 Finish the Front as represented. 
 
 If you wish to have a close back, take off % inch seam at the back center from 
 A to 3. 
 
THE EXPERT DESIGNER 
 
 BY S. SCHORR 
 
 Diagram 2 1 
 
Tight-Fitting Eton with Two Darts 
 
 Diagram 22. 
 
 First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematical Outline, then 
 continue as follows: 
 
 1 from Z is '/2 inch. 
 
 2 from Y is 2'/) inches. 
 
 Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 to 2 for the fashionable waist line as represented. 
 
 3 from C is 2 inches. 
 
 4 is the half way between F and M. 
 
 5 from 4 is % inches. 
 
 6 from 1 is 4 inches. 
 
 Finish the back as represented. 
 
 7 from 4 is % inch. 
 
 8 from 2 is 1% inches. 
 
 Draw a line from E to 3. 
 
 9 from G is 314 inches. 
 
 10 is located by drawing a line through 9 parallel with line 1--2. 
 
 1 1 is located by drawing a line from 10 through 9. 
 
 12 is the half-way between 10 and 11. 
 
 13 is the half-way between 10 and 12. 
 
 14 is located by drawing a line from 13 parallel with line E--8. 
 
 15 from 14 
 
 16 from 14 
 
 17 from 16 
 
 18 from 17 
 
 19 from 12 
 
 s Ve inch. 
 
 s 5/8 inch, and is from 13 the same length as 15 from 13. 
 
 s 1 inch less than the distance between A and K. 
 
 s 2 inches. 
 
 s the same length as 17 from 12. 
 
 Finish the front as represented. 
 
THE EXPERT DESIGNER 
 
 BY S. SCHORR 
 
 Diagram 22 
 
Tight-Fitting Eton with One Side-Gore 
 
 Diagram 23. 
 
 First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematical Outline, then 
 continue as follows: 
 
 1 from Z is '/2 inch. 
 
 2 from Y is 2'^ inches. 
 
 Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 through 2 for the fashionable waist line 
 as represented. 
 
 3 from C is 2 inches. 
 
 4 from P is % inch. 
 
 5 from H is % inch. 
 
 6 from 3 is the same as K from A. 
 
 Finish the back part as represented. 
 
 7 from 6 is % inch. 
 
 8 from 4 is Vi inch. 
 
 9 from 8 is % inch for seam. 
 
 10 from F is V/i inches. 
 
 11 h-om 1 is 214 inches. 
 
 Finish the side gore as represented. 
 
 12 from 10 is ^^ inch. 
 
 13 from 1 is '^ inch. 
 
 14 from 2 is 1% inches. 
 
 Draw a line from E to 14. 
 
 15 from G is 3'^ inches. 
 
 16 from 15 is V/i inches on line drawn parallel with line 1-2. 
 
 17 is located by drawing a line from 16 parallel with line E-14. 
 
 1 8 from 17 is 1 '4 inches. 
 
 19 from 17 is 2% inches. 
 
 20 hom 16 is the same length as 18 from 16. 
 
 Finish the front as represented. 
 
THE EXPERT DESIGNER 
 
 BY S. SCHORR 
 
 Diagram 23 
 
Tight-Fitting Eton with French Seam 
 
 Diagram 24. 
 
 First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematical Outline, then 
 continue as follows: 
 
 1 from Z is Vz incfi. 
 
 2 from Y is 2'^ inches. 
 
 Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 through 2 for the fashionabie waist line as 
 represented. 
 
 3 from C is 2 inches. 
 
 4 from O is % inch. 
 
 5 is the half-way between L and 4, or located accordingly style and taste. 
 
 6 from 3 is the same as K from A. 
 
 7 is located by drawing a line from 5 to 6 as represented. 
 
 8 from 6 is % inch. 
 
 9 from 5 is Ys inch and is '/( inch higher from the line L--0. 
 
 10 from 4 is Ys inch and is V^ inch higher from line L-4. 
 
 1 1 from P is % inch. 
 
 12 from F is Wi inches. 
 
 13 from 1 is 2V^ inches. 
 
 Finish the back part and the back side gore as represented. 
 
 14 from 12 is % inch. 
 
 15 from 1 is V4 inch. 
 
 16 from 2 is 1% inches. 
 Draw a line from E to 16. 
 
 17 from G is 3'/( inches. 
 
 18 from 17 is I'/j inches on line drawn parallel with line 1--2. 
 
 19 is located by drawing a line from 18 parallel with line E--16. 
 
 20 from 19 is 1 1/4 inches. 
 
 21 from 19 is 2% inches. 
 
 22 from 18 is the same length as 20 from 18. 
 
 23 from R is the same length as L to 5. 
 
 Draw a line from 23 to 18. 
 
 24 from 23 is % inch. 
 
 Draw a line from 24 parallel with line 23-- 18 as represented. 
 Finish the front as represented. 
 
THE EXPERT DESIGNER 
 
 BY S. SCHORR 
 
 Diagram 24 
 
Tight-Fitting French Seam 
 
 Diagram 25. 
 
 First lay up all points to your measure 
 as described in Systematical Outline, then 
 continue as follows: 
 
 1 from Z is '/i inch. 
 
 2 from Y is 2'/) inches. 
 
 Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 
 through 2 for the fashionable waist line as 
 represented. 
 
 3 from C is 2 inches. 
 
 4 from D is 1% inches. 
 
 5 from O is 44 inch. 
 
 6 from P is % inch. 
 
 Draw a line from 5 to 6. 
 
 7 is the half-way between 5 and L, or make 
 the width to style or taste. 
 
 8 from 3 is 1 inch less than A to K. 
 
 9 is located by drawing a line from 7 to 8 
 as represented. 
 
 10 from 4 is % inch more than 3 to 8. 
 
 1 1 from 8 is % inch. 
 
 12 from 10 is 1 inch. 
 
 13 from F is % inch. 
 
 14 from 1 is % inch. 
 
 15 is located by drawing a line from 13 
 through 14. 
 
 16 is the half-way between 9 and 13. 
 
 17 is the half-way between 11 and 14. 
 
 18 is located by drawing a line from 16 
 through 17. 
 
 19 from 17 is '/2 inch. 
 
 20 from 17 is V2 inch. 
 
 21 from 18 is 1 inch. 
 
 22 from 18 is 1 inch. 
 
 23 from 15 is Vz inch. 
 
 24 from 7 is Vs inch, and is '/) inch higher 
 from the line L-5. 
 
 25 from 5 is % inch, and is from 6 the 
 same length as O from P. 
 
 26 from 16 is 1 inch. 
 
 27 from 26 is % inch for seam. 
 
 Finish the back and side gores as rep- 
 resented. 
 
 28 from 14 is % inch, and is from 13 the 
 same length as 14 from 13. 
 
 29 from 15 is IV2 inches. 
 
 30 from 2 is 1% inches. 
 
 31 is located by drawing a line from E 
 through 30. 
 
 32 from 31 is Yg inch. 
 
 33 from G is 3'^ inches. 
 
 34 from 33 is 2 inches on line drawn from 
 33 parallel with line 1-2. 
 
 35 is located by drawing a line from 34 par- 
 allel with line E -30. 
 
 36 from 35 is 1 '/) inches. 
 
 37 from 35 is 2% inches. 
 
 38 from 34 is the same length as 36 from 
 34. 
 
 39 is located by drawing a line from 36 par- 
 allel with line E-31. 
 
 40 from 39 is 4% inches. 
 
 41 from R is the same width as L to 7. 
 
 Draw a line from 41 to 34. 
 
 42 from 41 is ^4 inch for seams. 
 
 Draw a line from 42 parallel with line 
 41-34. 
 
 43 from 14 is the same length as 29 from 
 28. 
 
 44 from 40 is 1 V4 inches. 
 
 45 from 36 is the same length as 44 from 
 38. 
 
 Finish the front as represented. 
 
THE EXPERT DESIGNER 
 
 BY S. SCHORR 
 
 Diagram 25 
 
Tight- Fitting Double French Seam 
 
 Diagram 26. 
 
 First lay up all points to your measure 
 as described in Systematical Outline, then 
 continue as follows: 
 
 1 from Z is '/? inch. 
 
 2 from Y is 2 '/a inches. 
 
 Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 
 through 2 for the fashionable waist line as 
 represented. 
 
 3 from C is 2 inches. 
 
 4 from D is 1% inches. 
 
 5 from O is % inch. 
 
 6 from P is % inch. 
 
 Draw line from 5 to 6. 
 
 7 from L is the half of distance from A 
 to K. 
 
 8 from 3 is the half of distance from A 
 to K. 
 
 9 is located by drawing a line from 7 to 8. 
 
 10 from 4 is % inch more than the distance 
 from 3 to 8. 
 
 1 1 from 8 is '/i inch. 
 
 12 from 10 is Vi inch. 
 
 13 from 5 is '/? inch more than L to 7. 
 
 14 from 1 1 is Vz inch more than 3 to 8. 
 
 15 is located by drawing a line from 13 
 to 14. 
 
 IS from 12 is % inch more than 1 1 to 14. 
 
 Finish the middle back part as repre- 
 sented. 
 
 17 from 14 is V? inch. 
 
 18 from 16 is '/? inch. 
 
 19 from F is % inch. 
 
 20 from 1 is % inch. 
 
 21 is located by drawing a line from 19 
 through 20. 
 
 22 is the half-way between 15 and 19. 
 
 23 is the half-way between 17 and 20. 
 
 24 is located by drawing a line from 22 
 through 23. 
 
 25 from 23 is Vz inch. 
 
 26 from 23 is Vz inch. 
 
 27 from 24 is 1 inch. 
 
 28 from 24 is 1 inch. 
 
 29 from 21 is Vz inch. 
 
 30 from 13 is Ys inch, and is Va inch higher 
 from line L~5. 
 
 3 1 from 5 is % inch, and is from 6 the same 
 length as O from P. 
 
 32 from 22 is 1 inch. 
 
 33 from 32 is Vs inch for seam. 
 
 Finish the side gores as represented. 
 
 34 from 20 is % inch, and is from 19 the 
 same length as 20 from 19. 
 
 35 from 21 is Wi inches. 
 3S from 2 is 1% inches. 
 
 37 is located by drawing a line from E 
 through 36. 
 
 38 fr 
 
 37 
 
 is Vs inch 
 
 39 from G. is 3'^ inches. 
 
 40 is located by drawing a line through 39 
 parallel with line 1-2. 
 
 41 is located by drawing a line from 40 
 through 39. 
 
 42 is the half-way between 40 and 41. 
 
 43 is the half-v/ay between 40 and 42. 
 
 44 is located by drawing a line from 43 par- 
 allel with line E-36. 
 
 45 from 44 is % inch. 
 
 4G from 44 is Va inch, and is from 43 the 
 same length as 45 from 43. 
 
 47 is located by drawing a line from 45 par- 
 allel with line E~37. 
 
 48 from 47 is 1 Va inches. 
 
 49 from 46 is 1 inch less than the distance 
 from A to K. 
 
 50 from 48 is Va inch more than the distance 
 from 46 to 49. 
 
 51 from 49 is 2 inches. 
 
 52 from 42 is the same length as 49 from 
 42. 
 
 53 from 50 is 2'/i inches. 
 
 54 from R is Ys inch more than the distance 
 from. L to 7. 
 
 Draw line from 54 to 43. 
 
 55 from 54 is % inch for seams. 
 
 Draw a line from 55 parallel with line 
 54-43. 
 
 56 from U is the same width as 30 to 31. 
 
 57 from 56 is -/a inch for seams. 
 
 Draw a line from 57 to 42. 
 Draw a line from 56 parallel with line 
 57-42. 
 
 58 from 20 is the same length as 35 from 34. 
 
 59 from 53 is 1 Va inches. 
 
 60 from 49 is the same length as 59 from 52. 
 
 61 from 48 is the same length as 60 from 50. 
 
 62 from 45 is the same length as 61 from 46. 
 
 Finish the front as represented. 
 
 By cutting out the pattern allow extra 
 % inch for seams all way down at lines 
 7--8--10, and 7-11-12. 
 
THE EXPERT DESIGNER 
 
 BY S. SCHORR 
 
 Diagram 26 
 
Collars and Lapels 
 
 Allow for button stand at the center of front for single breasted 1 to 2 inches, for 
 double breasted 3 to 4 inches. 
 
 Showl Collar 
 
 Diagsam I 
 
 1 is the shoulder point 
 
 2 from I is 1 inch. 
 
 3 is the end of the break of lapel. 
 
 4 from 2 is '4 inch more than the width of the back neck on line drawn from 3 through 2 
 
 Square up and down from 4. 
 
 5 from 4 is I '4 inches. 
 
 6 from 2 is I '4 inches. 
 
 7 from 4 is the width of the collar desired. 
 
 Allow about '4 inch for spring at point 7. 
 Shape the collar and lapel as represented. 
 
 Single Breasted Lapel and Notch Collar 
 
 Diagram 2 
 
 From I to 7 are the same points as described by the Showl Collar, then finish the 
 lapel and collar as indicated. 
 
 Double Breasted Lapel and Notch Collar 
 
 Diagram 3 
 
 From 1 to 7 are the same points as described by the Showl Collar, then finish the 
 lapel and collar as indicated. 
 
 Two Pieces Collar 
 
 Diagram 4 
 
 First mark the front and back, than continue as follows: 
 
 1 is the shoulder point. 
 
 2 from I is I '4 inches. 
 
 3 is the end of the break of lapel. 
 
 4 from 2 is the width of the collar desired. 
 
 5 from 2 is 1 '4 inches. 
 
 6 is located by drawing a line from 2 to 3. 
 
 Shape the collar and lapel as indicated by points 2-3-4 
 Finish the front collar as represented. 
 
 Trace over the lapel by breaking the paper on the crease line 2-3, and finish lapel. 
 7-8 is the back neck. 
 
 9 from 7 is 2' 2 inches. 
 
 10 from 9 is the same width as 8 from 7 on line squared out from 8. 
 
 I 1 from 10 is the same length as 4 from 5 on the front and is located inside from the back 
 shoulder so much as point 4 is outside from the front shoulder. 
 Finish tde back collar ar represented. 
 
THE E vFERT DESIGNER 
 
 BY S. SCHORR 
 
 DIAGFAM 1 
 
 DIAC 
 
 DIAGRAM 3 
 
 -J 
 
 DIAGRAM 4 
 
 v.,''^ 
 
 t / 
 
 Diagram 27 
 
Tight- Fitting 18 Gores 
 
 Diagram 28. 
 
 First lay up all points to your measure 
 as described in Systematical Outline, then 
 continue as follows: 
 
 1 from Z is '/i inch. 
 
 2 from Y is 2'/4 inches. 
 
 Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 
 through 2 for the fashionable waist line as 
 represented. 
 
 3 from C is 2 inches. 
 
 4 from D is 1% inches. 
 
 5 from O is % inch. 
 
 6 from P is % inch. 
 
 Draw a line from 5 to 6. 
 
 7 from L is the half of distance from A 
 to K. 
 
 8 from 3 is the half of distance from A 
 to K. 
 
 9 is located by drawing a line from 7 to 8. 
 
 1 from 4 is % inch more than the distance 
 from 3 to 8. 
 
 Finish the back part as represented. 
 
 1 1 from 8 is Va inch. 
 
 12 from 10 is Vz inch. 
 
 13 from 5 is Vz inch more than L to 7. 
 
 14 from 1 1 is the same width as 3 to 8. 
 
 15 is located by drawing a line from 13 
 to 14. 
 
 16 from 12 is % inch more than 11 to 14. 
 
 Finish the middle back part as repre- 
 sented. 
 
 17 from 14 is Vz inch. 
 
 18 from 16 is 
 
 lir 
 
 inch. 
 . '/4 inches. 
 
 20 from 1 is l'^ inches. 
 
 21 is located by drawing 
 through 20. 
 
 22 is one-third of 15-19. 
 
 23 is the half way between 15-22. 
 
 24 is one-third of 17-20. 
 
 25 is the half-way between 17-24. 
 2o is located by drawing a line from 
 
 through 24. 
 27 is located by drawing 
 through 25. 
 
 inch. 
 
 19 
 
 22 
 line from 23 
 
 28 from 25 is % 
 
 29 from 25 is V^ 
 
 30 from 24 is Va 
 
 31 from 24 is Va 
 
 32 from 20 is Va 
 
 33 from 27 is Vz 
 
 34 from 27 is Vz 
 
 35 from 26 is Vz 
 
 36 from 26 is Vz 
 
 37 from 21 is Va 
 
 nch. 
 nch. 
 nch. 
 nch. 
 nch. 
 nch. 
 nch. 
 nch. 
 nch. 
 
 38 from 13 is Ys inch, and is Va inch higher 
 from line L-5. 
 
 39 from 5 is Vs inch, and is from 6 the same 
 length as O from P. 
 
 40 from 23 is 1 inch. 
 
 Finish the side gores as represented. 
 
 41 from 20 is Va inch, and is from 19 the 
 same length as 32 from 19. 
 
 42 from 21 is 1 inch. 
 
 43 from 2 is 1% inches. 
 
 44 is located by drawing a line from E 
 through 43. 
 
 45 from 44 is % inch. 
 
 46 from G is 3'/t inches. 
 
 47 is located by drawing a line through 46 
 parallel with line 1-2. 
 
 48 is located by drawing a line from 47 
 through 46. 
 
 49 is the half-way between 47 and 48. 
 
 50 is the half-way between 46 and 47. 
 
 51 is the half-way between 48 and 49. 
 
 52 is located by drawing a line from 50 par- 
 allel with line E-43. 
 
 53 from 52 is % inch. 
 
 54 from 52 is % inch, and is from 50 the 
 same length as 53 from 50. 
 
 55 is located by drawing a line from 53 par- 
 allel with line E -44. 
 
 56 from 55 is 1 Va inches. 
 
 57 from 54 is 1 inch less than ihe distance 
 from A to K. 
 
 58 from 56 is Va inch more than 57 from 54. 
 
 59 from 57 is Wz inches, and is from 49 
 the same length as 57 from 49. 
 
 60 from 58 is 1% inches. 
 
 61 is the half way between 41 and 59. 
 
 62 is located by drawing a line from 51 
 through 61. 
 
 63 from 61 is Va inch. 
 
 64 from 61 is Va inch. 
 
 65 from 62 is Va inch. 
 
 66 from R is % inch more than the distance 
 from L to 7. 
 
 Draw a line from 66 to 50. 
 
 67 from 66 is % inch for seams. 
 
 Draw a line from 67 parallel with line 
 66-50. 
 
 68 from U is the same width as 38 to 39. 
 
 69 from 68 is % inch for seams. 
 
 Draw a line from 69 to 49. 
 Draw a line from 68 parallel with line 
 69-49. 
 
 70 is the half-way between S and V. 
 
 71 from 32 is the same length as 42 from 41. 
 
 72 from 61 is \Va inches. 
 
 73 from 57 is the same length as 72 from 59. 
 
 Finish the front as represented. 
 By cutting out the pattern allow extra 
 for seams all way down as follows: 
 
 % 
 % 
 % 
 Va 
 Va 
 Va 
 
 nch at Hne 7-9-8 10. 
 nch at line 7 9-11-12. 
 nch at line 70 51 63 65. 
 nch at line 70-51 64-62. 
 nch at line 19-32-71. 
 nch at line 22 31-35. 
 nch at line 40-23 29-32. 
 
THE EXPERT DESIGNER 
 
 BY S, SCHORR 
 
 Diagram 28 
 
Tight- Fitting 22 Gores 
 
 Diagram 29. 
 
 First lay up all points to your measure 
 as described in Systematical Outline, then 
 continue as follows: 
 
 1 from Z is Vz inch. 
 
 2 from Y is 2 '4 inches. 
 
 Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 
 through 2 for the fashionable waist line as 
 represented. 
 
 3 from C is 2 inches, 
 from D is 1% inches. 
 
 4 
 5 
 
 6 
 
 O is % inch. 
 
 from 
 
 from P is V4 inch. 
 Draw a line from 5 to 6. 
 
 7 from O is 2 inches. 
 
 8 from L is one-third of distance from L 
 to 7. 
 
 9 from 3 is 1% inch less than K from A. 
 
 10 from 4 is % inch more than 3 to 9. 
 
 1 1 is located by drawing a line from 8 to 9. 
 
 Finish the back part as represented. 
 
 12 from 9 is '4 inch. 
 
 13 from 10 is % inch. 
 
 14 is the half-way between 7 and 8. 
 
 15 from 12 is % inch less than 3 to 9. 
 
 IS from 13 is ^/4 inch more than 15 from 12. 
 
 17 is located by drawing a line from 14 
 to 15. 
 
 18 from 15 is V4 inch. 
 
 19 from 16 is yis inch. 
 
 20 from 18 is ihe same as 3 to 9. 
 
 inch 
 
 more 
 
 th 
 
 an 
 
 li 
 
 21 from from 19 is 
 to 20. 
 
 22 is located by drawing a line from 7 to 20. 
 
 23 from 20 is ['4 inch. 
 
 24 from 21 is Vz inch. 
 
 25 from F is 1 '/) inches. 
 2C from 1 is 1 '/( inches. 
 
 27 is located by drawing 
 through 25. 
 
 28 from 25 is cne-ihird 
 25 to 22. 
 
 29 is the half-way between 22 and 28. 
 
 30 is one-;hird of distance from 26 to 23 
 
 31 is the half-way between 30 and 23 
 
 32 is located by drawing a line from 
 through 30. 
 
 33 is located by drawing 
 through 31 
 
 of 
 
 line from 25 
 disiance from 
 
 ine trom 
 
 28 
 29 
 
 34 from 31 is 
 
 35 from 31 is Vs 
 3G from 30 is '4 
 
 37 from 30 is V4 
 
 38 from 26 is V4 
 
 39 from 33 is % 
 
 40 from 33 is 'A 
 
 41 from 32 is % 
 
 42 from 32 is '/. 
 
 43 from 27 is V4 
 
 44 from 7 is ' 
 
 inch. 
 
 inch. 
 
 inch. 
 
 inch. 
 
 inch. 
 I inch. 
 
 inch. 
 ; inch. 
 ; inch. 
 
 inch, 
 inch, and is 
 
 '4 inch higher 
 
 than line L-0. 
 
 45 from 5 is Vs inch, and is the same length 
 from 6 as O from P. 
 
 46 from 29 is 1 inch. 
 
 Finish the side gores as represented. 
 
 47 from 26 is '/It inch. 
 
 48 from 27 is 1 inch. 
 
 49 from 2 is 1 '/It inches. 
 
 50 is located by drawing a line from E 
 through 49. 
 
 31 
 
 52 
 53 
 
 54 
 
 55 
 
 5S 
 
 57 
 
 58 
 
 59 
 
 SO 
 61 
 62 
 C3 
 G4 
 C5 
 
 g: 
 
 67 
 
 G8 
 G9 
 
 71 
 
 72 
 
 3 
 
 74 
 75 
 7C 
 
 77 
 
 line through 
 ne from 53 
 
 from 50 is % inch, 
 from G is 3 '4 inches, 
 is located by drawing a 
 
 52 parallel with line 1-2. 
 is located by drawing a 
 through 52. 
 
 from 53 is one-fifth of the distance from 
 
 23 to 54. 
 
 from 55 is one-fifth of the distance from 
 
 53 to 54. 
 
 from 56 is one-fifth of the distance from 
 
 53 to 54. 
 
 from 57 is one-fifth of the distance from 
 
 53 to 54. 
 
 is located by drawing a lime from 55 
 
 parallel with line E~49. 
 
 from 59 is Vz inch. 
 
 from 59 is Vz inch. 
 
 from 61 is 1 V4 inches less than K from A. 
 
 from 62 is 1 inch. 
 
 from 63 is the same as 62 from 61. 
 
 from 64 is % inch. 
 
 is the half-way between 65 and 47. 
 
 a line from 58 
 
 is located by drawing 
 
 through 66. 
 
 from 66 is V4 inch. 
 
 from 66 is V4 inch. 
 
 is located by drawing a line from 60 
 
 parallel with line E~50. 
 
 from 70 is 1 inch. 
 
 from 71 is '4 inch more than 62 from 61. 
 
 from 72 is 1 Vs inches. 
 
 from 73 is V4 inch more than 64 from 63. 
 
 from 74 is % inch. 
 
 from 67 is '/t inch. 
 
 from R is % inch more than 8 from L. 
 
 Draw a line from 77 to 55. 
 from 77 is '/) inch for seams. 
 
 Draw a line from 78 parallel 
 77-55. 
 
 illel with line 
 
 79 from 78 is 44 inch more than 14 from 8 
 SO 
 
 Draw a line from 79 to 56. 
 from 79 is % inch for seams. 
 Draw a line from 80 parallel with line 
 79 56. 
 81 from U is the same as 45 from 44. 
 32 from 81 is V4 inch for seams. 
 Draw a line from 82 to 57. 
 Draw a line from 81 parallel with line 
 82-57. 
 
 83 is the half-way between S and V. 
 
 84 from 38 is the same length as 48 from 47. 
 
 85 from 75 is 1 V4 inches. 
 
 8S from 64 is the same length as 85 from 65. 
 Finish the front and bottom as repre- 
 sented. 
 
 By cutting out the pattern allow extra 
 for seams all way down as follows : 
 
 % 
 
 nch at 
 
 line 8-9 10. 
 
 Vs 
 
 nch at 
 
 line 8 12 13. 
 
 % 
 
 nch al 
 
 line 14-15-16 
 
 Vs 
 
 nch at 
 
 line 14-18 19 
 
 V4 
 
 nch at 
 
 line46 35 39 
 
 V4 
 
 nch at 
 
 line 28-37-41 
 
 V4 
 
 nch at 
 
 line 25-38-84 
 
 Vs 
 
 nch at 
 
 line 83-69-67 
 
 Vs 
 
 nch at 
 
 line 83-68 76 
 
THE EXPERT DESIGNER 
 
 BY S. SCHORR 
 
 Diagram 29 
 
Semi -Fitting Back and Loose Front 
 
 Diagram 30. 
 
 First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematical Ootline, then 
 continue as follows: 
 
 1 from Z is '/i inch. 
 
 2 from Y is 2'/4 inches. 
 
 Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 through 2 for the fashionabie waist line as 
 represented. 
 
 3 from C is 1 V2 inches. 
 
 4 from 3 is a '/) inch. 
 
 5 from D is 1 inch. 
 
 6 from P is % inch. 
 
 7 from H is % inch. 
 
 8 from 4 is 1 inch more than the distance from A to K. 
 
 9 from 5 is % inch more than the distance from 4 to 8. 
 
 Finish the back as represented. 
 
 10 from 8 is V2 inch. 
 
 1 1 from 9 is 1 V2 inches. 
 
 12 from 6 is V2 inch. 
 
 13 from F is % inch. 
 
 14 from 1 is % inch. 
 
 15 is located by drawing a line from 13 through 14. 
 
 16 from 14 is V2 inch. 
 
 17 from 1 is V2 inch, and is from F the same length as 16 from 13. 
 
 18 from 15 is V2 inch. 
 
 19 from 15 is 1 inch, and is from 17 the same length as 18 from 16. 
 
 20 is located by line squared out from E. 
 
 21 from 2 is V2 inch. 
 
 Draw line from E through 21. 
 
 Finish the front and side gore as represented. 
 
THE EXPERT DESIGNER 
 
 BY S. SCHORR 
 
 Diagram 30 
 
Semi-Fitting with Dart in Front 
 
 Diagram 31. 
 
 First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematical Ootline, then 
 continue as follows: 
 
 1 from Z is '/i inch. 
 
 2 from Y is 2'/4 inches. 
 
 Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 through 2 for the fashionabie waist line as 
 represented. 
 
 3 from C is 1 V2 inches. 
 
 4 from 3 is a Va inch. 
 
 5 from D is 1 inch. 
 
 6 from P is % inch. 
 
 7 from H is % inch. 
 
 8 from 4 is 1 inch more than the distance from A to K. 
 
 9 from 5 is % inch more than the distance from 4 to 8. 
 
 Finish the back as represented. 
 
 10 from 8 is V2 inch. 
 
 1 1 from 9 is 1 '/> inches. 
 
 12 from 6 is V2 inch. 
 
 13 from F is % inch. 
 
 14 from 1 is % inch. 
 
 15 is located by drawing a line from 13 through 14. 
 
 16 from 14 is V2 inch. 
 
 Finish the side gore as represented. 
 
 17 from 1 is Vz inch, and is from F the same length as 16 from 13. 
 
 18 from 15 is 1 inch. 
 
 19 from 2 is 2 inches. 
 
 Draw line from E through 19. 
 
 20 from G is 3 V4 inches. 
 
 21 from 20 is l'/2 inches on line drawn parallel with line E-19. 
 
 22 is located by drawing a line from 21 parallel with line E--19. 
 
 23 is located by drawing a line from 21 parallel with line E--19. 
 
 24 from 22 is V2 inch. 
 
 25 from 24 is 3 inches. 
 
 26 from 21 is the same lenghth as 24 from 21. 
 
 27 from 23 is % inch. 
 
 28 from 27 is 3% inches. 
 
 Finish the front as represented. 
 
 29 from 16 is the same length as 18 from 17. 
 
 30 from 28 is l'^ inches. 
 
 31 from 24 is the same length as 30 from 26. 
 
 Finish the bottom as represented. 
 
THE EXPERT DESIGNER 
 
 BY S. SCHORR 
 
 Diagram 3 1 
 
Semi-Fitting French Seam 
 
 Diag 
 
 ram 
 
 32. 
 
 First lay up all points to your measure 
 as described in Systematical Outline, then 
 continue as follows : 
 
 1 from Z is '/2 inch. 
 
 2 from Y is ZVa inches. 
 
 Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 
 through 2 for the fashionable waist line 
 as represented. 
 
 3 from C is 1 V2 inches. 
 
 4 from 3 is V4 inch. 
 
 5 from D is 1 inch. 
 
 6 from O is % inch. 
 
 7 from P is % inch. 
 Draw a line from 6 to 7. 
 
 8 is the half-way between 6 and 4, or make 
 the width to style or taste. 
 
 9 from 4 is 1 inch more than the distance 
 from A to K. 
 
 10 from 5 is % inch more tham the distance 
 from 4 to 9. 
 
 1 1 is located by drawing a line from 8 to 9 
 as represented. 
 
 Finish the back as represented. 
 
 12 from 9 is V2 inch. 
 
 13 from 10 is IV2 inch. 
 
 14 from F is V4 inch. 
 
 15 from 1 is ^4 inch. 
 
 16 is located by drawing a line from 14 
 through 15. 
 
 17 from 15 is Vz inch. 
 
 18 from 8 is Vs inch. 
 
 19 from 6 is Vs inch. 
 
 20 from 18 is ''4 inch. 
 
 21 from 7 is the same length as O from P. 
 
 Finish the side gore as represented. 
 
 22 from 1 is V2 inch. 
 
 23 from 16 is 1 inch. 
 
 24 from 2 is 2 inches. 
 
 25 from G is 3'/4 inches. 
 
 26 from 25 is IV2 inches on line drawn from 
 25 parallel with line 1—2 
 
 27 is located by drawing a line from 26 
 parallel with line E--24. 
 
 28 is located by drawing a line from 26 
 through 27. 
 
 29 from 27 is V2 inch. 
 
 30 from 28 is % inch. 
 
 31 from 29 is 3 inches. 
 
 32 from 26 is the same length as 29 from 
 26. 
 
 33 from 30 is 3% inches. 
 
 34 from R is the same width as L to 8. 
 
 Draw a line from 34 to 26. 
 
 35 from 34 is % inch for seams. 
 
 Draw a line from 35 parallel with line 
 34-26. 
 
 36 from 16 is '/t inch. 
 
 37 from 22 is the same length as 36 from 
 17. 
 
 38 from 33 is 1 V4 inches. 
 
 39 from 29 is the same length as 38 from 
 32. 
 
 Finish the front and bottom as repre- 
 sented. 
 
THE EXPERT DESIGNER 
 
 BY S. SCHORR 
 
 Diagram 32 
 
Semi-Fitting Hipless Effect 
 
 Diagram 33. 
 
 First lay up all points to your measure 
 as described in Systematical Outline, then 
 continue as follows: 
 
 1 from Z is '2 inch. 
 
 2 from Y is 2 ',4 inches. 
 
 Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 
 through 2 for the fashionable waist line 
 as represented. 
 
 3 from C is 3 inches. 
 
 4 from 1 is 3 inches. 
 
 5 from 2 is 3 inches. 
 
 Draw lines from 3 to 4 and from 4 to 5 
 as represented. 
 
 6 from 3 is I'/i inches. 
 
 7 from D is 1 inch. 
 
 8 from P is % inch. 
 
 9 from H is % inch. 
 
 10 from 6 is 1 '/t inch more than K from A. 
 
 11 from 7 is % inch more than 10 from 6. 
 
 Finish the back as represented. 
 
 12 from 10 is V4 inch. 
 
 13 from 1 1 is IV2 inches. 
 
 14 from F is % inch. 
 
 15 from 4 is % inch. 
 
 16 is located by drawing a line from 14 
 through 15. 
 
 17 from 15 V4 inch. 
 
 Finish the back-side gore as represented. 
 
 18 from 4 is '/t inch. 
 
 19 from 16 is 1 inch. 
 
 20 from 2 is 2 inches. 
 
 21 from G is 3'/i inches. 
 
 22 from 21 is lYz inches on line drawn from 
 21 parailed with line 18-5. 
 
 23 is located by drawing a line from 22 
 parailed with line E--20. 
 
 24 is located by drawing a line from 22 
 through 23. 
 
 25 from 23 is V4 inch. 
 
 2Q from 23 is % inch, and is from 22 the 
 same lenght as 25 from 22. 
 
 27 is located by drawing a square line up 
 from the hip line to 26. 
 
 28 from V is % inch. 
 
 Finish the front as represented. 
 
 29 from A is the length of garment as 
 desired. 
 
 30 is located by a line squared out from 29. 
 
 31 is located by a line squared out from 29. 
 
 32 is located by a line squared out from 29. 
 
 33 from 12 is the same length as 30 from 10. 
 
 34 from 17 is the same length as 35 from 18. 
 
 35 is located by a line squared out from 29. 
 3S from 32 is 1 V4 inches. 
 
 37 is located by drawing a line from 25 
 through 24, and is from 25 the same 
 length as 36 from 26. 
 
 38 from R is 1 inch. 
 
 Allow for button stand 2 inches for single 
 breasted and 3 inches for double breasted. 
 
 Finish the bottom as represented. 
 
THE EXPERT DESIGNER 
 
 BY S. SCHORR 
 
 Diagram 33 
 
Semi-Fitting Coat with Underarm Gore. 
 
 Diagram 34. 
 
 First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematical Outline, then 
 continue as follows: 
 
 1 from Z is ^/i inch. 
 
 2 from Y is 21/4 inches. 
 
 Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 to 2 for the fashionable waist line as represented. 
 
 3 from C is l'/2 inches. 
 
 4 from 3 is '^ inch. 
 
 5 from D is 1 inch. 
 
 6 from M is % inch. 
 
 7 from 6 is % inch. 
 
 8 from 4 is 3 inches more than K from A. 
 
 9 is located by drawing a curved line from 7 to 8 as represented. 
 
 10 from 5 is % inch more than 8 from 4. 
 
 Finish the back as represented. 
 
 1 1 from 7 is 1 '/2 inches. 
 
 12 from 9 is l'/2 inches. 
 
 13 from 8 is 2 inches. 
 
 14 from 10 is 1% inches. 
 
 15 is located by drawing a shaped line from 11 to 14 as represented. 
 
 16 from 2 is 2 inches. 
 
 Draw a line from E through 16 for the run of front center. 
 
 1 7 from G is 3 '^ inches 
 
 18 from 17 is '/2 inch. 
 
 19 is located by drawing a line from 18 parallel with line E--16. 
 
 20 is located by drawing a line from 18 through 19. 
 
 21 from 19 is '/2 inch. 
 
 22 from 21 is 3 inches. 
 
 23 from 18 is the same length as 21 from 18. 
 
 24 from 20 is % inch. 
 
 25 from 24 is 3% inches. 
 
 26 from V is % inch. 
 
 27 from 26 is % inch. 
 
 28 from A is the length of garment as desired. 
 
 29 is located on line squared out from 28. 
 
 30 from 15 is the same length as 29 from 8. 
 
 3 1 is located on line squared out from 28. 
 
 32 from 31 is 1 '/4 inches. 
 
 33 from 21 is the same length as 32 from 23. 
 Finish the front and underarm gore as represented. 
 
THE EXPERT DESIGNER 
 
 BY S. SCHORR 
 
 Diagram 34 
 
Sac Coat with Loose Front 
 
 Diagram 35. 
 
 First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematical Outline, then 
 continue as follows: 
 
 1 from Z is '/? inch. 
 
 2 from Y is 2Vi inches. 
 
 Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 to 2 for the fashionable waist line as represented. 
 
 3 from C is 1 '/2 inches. 
 
 4 from 3 is '/t inch. 
 
 5 from D is 1 inch. 
 
 6 from M is % inch. 
 
 7 from 6 is ^^ inch. 
 
 8 from 4 is 3 inches more than K from A. 
 
 9 is located by drawing a curved line from 7 to 8 as represented. 
 
 10 from 5 is % inch more than 8 from 4. 
 
 Finish the back as represented. 
 
 1 1 from 8 is Vz inch. 
 
 12 from 10 1% inches. 
 
 13 from F is Vz inch. 
 
 14 from 1 is '/i inch. 
 
 15 from 14 is 2Vz inches and is located by drawing a line from 13 through 14. 
 
 16 from 14 is % inch. 
 
 17 from 14 is % inch. 
 
 18 from 2 is Vz inch. 
 
 19 from A is the length of garment as desired. 
 
 20 is located on line squared out from 19. 
 
 21 is located by drawing a line from E through 18. 
 
 22 from 1 1 is the sam.e length as 20 from 8. 
 23 1 from R is 1 inch. 
 
 24 is located by a line squared down from S and is 2 Vl inches below the fashionable waist line. 
 
 25 from 24 is V2 inch. 
 
 26 is located by drawing a line from 25 through 15 and is the half of the pocket size, in this 
 case 3 inches. 
 
 27 is located by drawing a line from 26 through 25 and is the full pocket size, in this case 
 6 inches. 
 
 28 from S is 1 inch. 
 
 29 from G is V2 inch. 
 
 30 is located by drawing a line from 28 through 29, and is in this case 5 inches long. 
 
 Finish the draft as represented. 
 
THE EXPERT DESIGNER 
 
 BY S. SCHORR 
 
 Diagram 35 
 
Sac Coat with Shaped Front 
 
 Diagram 36. 
 
 First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematical Outline, then 
 continue as follows: 
 
 1 from Z is '/? inch. 
 
 2 from Y is 2'/t inches. 
 
 Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 to 2 for the fashionable waist line as represented. 
 
 3 from C is Wz inches. 
 
 4 from 3 is '4 inch. 
 
 5 from D is 1 inch. 
 
 6 from M is % inch. 
 
 7 from 6 is % inch. 
 
 8 from 4 is 3 inches more than K from A. 
 
 9 is located by drawing a curved line from 7 to 8 as represented. 
 10 from 5 is % inch more than 8 from 4. 
 
 Finish the back as represented. 
 1 1 from 8 is '/> inches. 
 
 12 from 10 is 1% inches. 
 
 13 from F is Vz inches. 
 
 14 from 1 is Vz inch. 
 
 15 from 14 is 2'/2 inches and is located by drawing a line from 13 through 14. 
 
 16 from 14 is Vz inch. 
 
 17 from 14 is Vz inch. 
 
 18 from 2 is 2 inches. 
 
 19 from G is 3'/} inches. 
 
 20 from 19 is IVz inches on line drawn from 19 parallel with line 1—2- 
 
 21 is located by drawing a line from 20 parallel with line E— 18. 
 
 22 is located by drawing a line from 20 through 21. 
 
 23 from 21 is Vz inch. 
 
 24 from 22 is % inch. 
 
 25 from 23 is 3 inches and is from 20 the same length as 23 from 20. 
 
 26 from 24 is 3% inches 
 
 27 from A is the length of garment as denired. 
 
 28 is located on line squared out from 27. 
 
 29 is located on line squared out from 27. 
 
 30 from 1 1 is the same length as 28 from 8. 
 
 31 from 29 is 1 Vi inches. 
 
 32 from 23 is the same length as 31 from 25. 
 
 33 from R is 3% inches. 
 
 34 from 33 is % inch for seams. 
 
 Finish the draft as represented. 
 
THE EXPERT DESIGNER 
 
 BY S. SCHORR 
 
 Diagram 36 
 
How to make Shoulder Dart 
 
 Diagram 37. 
 
 To make a shoulder dart we must have first a french seam front. 
 Put the two parts together so that they should lap over ^4 inch from A to C 
 and B to D as represented. 
 
THE EXPERT DESIGNER 
 
 BY S. SCHORR 
 
 Diagram 37 
 
Loose Box Coat 
 
 Diagram 38. 
 
 First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematical Outline, then 
 continue as follows: 
 
 1 from Z is V2 inch. 
 
 2 from Y is 2'^ inches. 
 
 Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 through 2 as represented. 
 
 3 is the half-way between F and M. 
 
 4 from 3 is % inch. 
 
 5 from 3 is % inch. 
 
 6 from 1 is V4 inch more than 5 from F. 
 
 7 from 6 is 1 '^ inches. 
 
 8 from C is % inch. 
 
 9 from A is % inch. 
 
 10 from L is V4 inch. 
 
 1 1 from R is % inch. 
 
 12 from 2 is Vz inch. 
 
 Draw a line from E through 12. 
 
 13 from A is the length of garment as desired. 
 
 14 is located by a line squared out from 13. 
 
 15 from 14 is V2 inch. 
 
 16 from 4 is the same length as 15 from 5. 
 
 17 is located by a line squared out from 13. 
 
 1 8 from 17 is 1 '4 inches. 
 
 19 from 11 is 1 inch. 
 
 Allow for button stand 3 inches for single breasted, 4 inches for double breasted. 
 Finish the draft as represented. 
 
 if you wish to have the back center without seam, take off % inch seam at the back 
 center. 
 
THE EXPERT DESIGNER 
 
 BY S. SCHORR 
 
 Diagram 38 
 
Loose Box Coat with Front-Shoulder Dart 
 
 Diagram 39 
 
 First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematical Outline, then 
 continue as follows: 
 
 1 fom Z is '/2 inch. 
 
 2 from Y is 2'^ inches. 
 
 Draw Lines from C to 1 and from 1 through 2 as represented. 
 
 3 is the half-way betveen F, and M. 
 
 4 from 3 is Ys inch. 
 
 5 from 3 is Ys inch. 
 
 6 from 1 is '^ inch more than 5 from F. 
 
 7 from 6 is 1 '/j inches. 
 
 8 from C is % inch. 
 
 9 from A is % inch. 
 
 10 from L is 'A inch. 
 
 1 1 from R is % inch. 
 
 12 from 2 is 2 inches. 
 
 Draw a line from E through 12 as represented. 
 
 13 from G is 3'/4 inches. 
 
 14 from 13 is Wz inches on line drawn from 13 parallel with line 1-2. 
 
 15 is located by a line drawn from 14 parallel with line E-12. 
 
 16 is located by a line drawn from 14 parallel with line E-12. 
 
 17 from 16 is Vz inch. 
 
 18 from 17 is 3 inches. 
 
 19 from 14 is the same length as 17 from 14. 
 
 20 from 15 is Vs inch. 
 
 21 from 20 is 3% inches. 
 
 22 from A is the full length as desssired. 
 
 23 is located by a line squared up from 22, 
 
 24 is located by a line sqoared up from 22. 
 
 25 is located by a line squared up from 22. 
 
 26 from 24 is Vz inch. 
 
 27 from 4 is the same length as 26 from 5. 
 
 28 from 25 is l'^ inches. 
 
 29 from 17 is the same length as 28 from 19. 
 
 30 from R is inch. 
 
 Allow for button stand 3 inches for single breasted, 4 inches for double breasted. 
 
 Finish the draft as represented. 
 
 If you wish to have the back centre without seam, take off ,< inch seam at te back centre 
 
 To get the front-shoulder dart make the front with french-seam as follows: 
 
 31 from 11 is 3% inches. 
 
 Draw a line from 31 to 14. 
 
 32 from 31 is % inch for seams. 
 
 Draw a line from 32 parallel with line 31-14 as represented. 
 
 To get the shoulder dart bring the front parts together as described and illustrated in 
 Diagram 37. 
 
THE EXPERT DESIGNER 
 
 BY S. SCHORR 
 
 Diagram 39 
 
Sleeve Construction for Coat 
 
 Diagram 40 
 
 1. Draw a straight line as from I to 2 
 
 2 from I is the Sleeve length measure. 
 
 Square lines up from I and 2. 
 
 3 from I is one-quarter of the full breast measure and I inch more. 
 
 4 is located by a line squared out from 3. 
 
 5 is the cente of 1-2. 
 
 6 is located by a line squared out from 5. 
 
 7 is the center of 2-4- 
 
 8 is the center of 1-3. 
 
 Square out line from 8. 
 
 9 from 8 is 2 inches 
 
 1 from 8 is the same length as 8 from i . 
 I I from I is 2 inches. 
 
 Draw lines between 11-10 and from 10 through 3. 
 12 is the center of 10-11 
 1 3 is the center of 3- 1 0. 
 I 4 from 1 2 is '.| inch. 
 I 5 from 1 3 is 1 inch. 
 1 6 from 3 is ' - inch. 
 I 7 fron 3 is ' J inch. 
 
 18 from 6 is 2 inches. 
 
 19 from 5 is 3 inches. 
 
 20 from 7 is 2 inches. 
 
 Draw a line from 4 through 20. 
 
 21 from 20 is 1 inch. 
 
 22 from 20 is 1 mch. 
 
 23 from 4 is ' J inch. 
 
 24 from 21 is 'j inch. 
 
 Draw all construction lines as represented. 
 
 Sleeve for Coat 
 
 Diagram 41 
 
 First lay up all points to measure as described in Sleeve Construction for coat 
 then continue as follows: 
 
 Shape the top of sleeve as represented by lines between ll-lO-I 7-18-4-22-5-11. 
 Shape the under sleeve as represented by lines between 9-16-18-23-24 19-9. 
 
THE EXPERT DESIGNER 
 
 BY S. SCHORR 
 
 Diagram 40 
 
 Diagram 41 
 
Systematic Outline for Skirts 
 
 Measurement 
 
 Waist 26 inches, Hips 40 inches, Front length 40 inches, Side length 41 '^ inches. 
 
 Back length 42 inches. 
 
 A. Square both ways from A as reprerented. 
 
 B from A is the half Waist measure and 3 inches more, in this case 16 inches 
 
 C from B is 3 inches on line squared out from B. 
 
 Draw a line from A through C and longer. 
 D from A is 7 inches. 
 E from D is the half Hip measure on line drawn from D parallel with line A-C, in 
 
 this case 20 inches. 
 F is located by a line squared out from E. 
 G from F is 1 ^4 inches. 
 H from A is the front length measure. 
 
 1 from about the middle of line A-G is the Side length measure. 
 J from G is the Back length measure on line drawn from G through E. 
 
 Finish the bottom as represented. 
 
 NOTICE : in all Drafts - designed in this Systematic Outline -are seams NOT allowed 
 
THE EXPERT DESIGNER 
 
 BY S. SCHORR 
 
 Diagram 64 
 
Four Gore (Panel) Skirt 
 
 Diagram 65 
 
 First lay up all points to measure as described in Systematical Outline for Skirts, then 
 continue as follows: 
 
 1 from A is 3 inches. 
 
 2 from G is 3 inches. 
 
 3 from H is 5 inches. 
 
 4 from J is 5 inches. 
 
 5 is the centre of 1-2. 
 
 6 is the centre of D-E. 
 
 Draw lines between 1 3,5-6 and 2-4 as represented. 
 
 Measure the waist line from A to G and the difference between this measure and the 
 actual waist measure is to be taken out in darts at points 1-5-2 as represented. 
 
 For instance from A to G measures 18 inches; the half actual waist measure is 13 
 inches; the surplus is 5 inches. This amount is to be taken out in darts. At the front (point 1) 
 take out the least and at the side (point 5) take out the most. 
 
 In this case take out at point 1 a half inch, at point 2 two inches, and at point 5 two 
 and half inches as represented. 
 
 NOTICE: No seams or turning-in is allowed for in this Systematical Outline. 
 
 Allow for all seams. 
 
THE EXPERT DESIGNER 
 
 BY S. SCHORR 
 
 Diagram 65 
 
Six Gore Skirt 
 
 Diagram 67 
 
 First lay up all points as described in Systematic Outline for Skirts, then continue 
 as follows : 
 
 1 from A is 3 inches. 
 
 3 from G is 3 inches. 
 
 2 is the center between I and 3. 
 
 4 from H is 5'j inches. 
 
 5 from J is 5 ' J inches. 
 
 6 from 4 is 1 inch less than the center between 4 and 5. 
 
 Draw lines from I to 4. from 2 to 6 and from 3 to 5. 
 
 Measure the waist line from A to Gjand the difference between this measure and 
 the actual half waist measure is to be taken out in darts at points 1.2, 3 as represent- 
 ed. 
 
THE EXPERT DESIGNER 
 
 BY S. SCHORR 
 
 Diagram 67 
 
SlUBaS 1[B JOJ MO||Y 
 
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 •saqaui g si y uioxj \ 
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THE EXPERT DESIGNER 
 
 BY S. SCHORR 
 
 Diagram 68 
 

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