F 41 .44 .S72 Copy 1 / Wn-n r / " t / c ■ >/ >^/f/A///"/t': Vr x > Gass R* W Book i ■ / Tour to the While Hills. From the Classic. NOTES OF A TOUR TO THE WHITE HILLS, IN JULY, 1841. EY E. W. SOUTHWICK. Read before the Cuvierian Society of the Wesleyan University, Aug. 29th. These celebrated highlands, it is well known, are situated in the north- ern and eastern part of the State of New Hampshire, in lat. about 44° 15' N. and long. 7120' W. Their highest summits* overlooking the country on all sides from sixty to a hundred miles have ever been the objects of great interest and admira- tion to the inhabitants. Though about seventy miles from the coast, they are seen many miles at gea, their broad summits resting like a bright cloud in the western horizon. The Indians have ever looked upon them with superstitious awe height ened by the marvellous traditions of th^ir fathers, that they were the abodes of spirits. Hence none had ever dared to ascend the highest peak, before the successful example of the incredulous white man, which accord- ing to Gov. Wmthrop, was given in 1842, by " one Darby Field, an Irish- man."! Until within about fifty years they were seldom visited, chiefly on account of the difficulty of access ; since which time, however, the visits have yearly grown more frequent, till at present they have become an easy and delightful resort for visitors from all parts of the United States. The object of this paper is to present a few facts and incidents collected during a recent tour to these mountains; some of which it is hoped may be found of some interest. *.The height of these mountains has been very much overrated by early observers. Dr. Cutler, in 1804, estimated the height of Mount Washington at 10,000 feet, and Dr. Belknap considered it even more than this ; but more recent and careful observation has determined it to be much less. Dr. Bigelow by observations in 1816. gave its height as G.225, and Dr. Jackson, geologist to the State ofN. H. in 1810, reported its height as 6,228 feet above the level of the sea. The following memorandum from barometric observations in 1821, by Capt. Partridge, an observer of great experience and accuracy, gives the height of the principal peaks in the White Mountain range as follows : Mount Washington, above the sea, 6,234 feet. " Adams, " " 5,328 " " Jefferson, " " 5,058 " " Madison, " " 4,866 " " Franklin, " " 4,711 " " Monroe, - " " 4,356 " Exploring visits to the sources of the Hudson, by W. C. Redfield, p. 22. This pamph- let was published from No. 2, Vol. xxxin. Silliman's Journal. Though the summit of Mt.Washington is the highest in the United States, it ranges low in the scale of mountains, and appears quite insignificant by comparison. Its height is not half that of Mount lilanc, and Quito, with a population of 70,000, one of ths finest and largest cities in all America, is nearly 3000 feet higher, t Winthrop's Journal, Ed. I 1790. p. 247. Tour to the White Hills. July 12th. Early in the morning, our party, consisting of four, left Vas- salboro', a small post town on the Kennebec, in a private coach, and soon passed through Augusta eleven miles distant, on our projected journey. After two days' pleasant ride, we arrived at Fryburg, on a bend of the Saco, about one hundred miles ride from Augusta, and forty-five from the mountains. This most interesting village on our whole route consists chiefly of neat white houses, arranged for about half a mile, along a wide level street on a beautiful high interval. Just below this is another inter- val of many hundred acres, level, luxuriant, thickly checkered with thrifty and various crops, and moistened by the meandering waters of the Saco. All this is in the midst of rich mountainous scenery,being placed as it were in the bottom of a mighty basin, whose brim is the distant summits in the surrounding horizon. July 14th. Our kind host, Mr. Souther, whose establishment we can most cheerfully recommend as an honorable exception to most inns on the route, prepared for our early departure, which was very desirable, when the mid-day heat on a dusty road was so oppressive. Beside the usual tav- ernings, we took many repasts during the day on the luscious fruit which stored the road side, refreshing ourselves, and giving our horses a grateful respite.* On this part of our route, we enjoyed much magnificent scenery, passing first through a luxurious mountainous district, highly picturesque and grand by the many forest-crowned blue-tinted heights, which swell so proudly up with their perpetual verdure ; and soon winding along the narrow fertile valley of the Saco between wild, steep, and sometimes rug- ged and precipitous declivities, often stretching up more than a thousand eet. The ridges are so high and the pass so narrow, that the shadows of sun light soon fall in the valley and surprise the stranger with an early sunset. It was so with us, when we arrived, ( 4 or 5 o'clock) at the " Wil- ley House," formerly called the " Notch House," the residence of the unhappy Willey Family, who were destroyed in 1826, by an immense slide from the mountains, in attempting to find safety without their threatened, though perfectly uninjured dwelling.f A torrent of earth and stones pas- sed on each side, wonderfully sparing the house, yet mingling the frag- ments of an adjoining barn with the sad ruin in front. This was caused by a severe rain in August, which produced several hundred slides and the most destructive flood of the Saco ever known.J The house has been very much defaced by travellers, who have inscribed * Raspberries, strawberries, and blueberries were ripe and very abundant. 1" The number overwhelmed was nine, the father and mother, with their five childern, (the oldest thirteen, and the youngest five years of age,) and two hired men. None were left to describe the dreadful scene. X An excellent account of the Storm and Slides is given by J. B. Moore, New Harap. Nat. Hist. Coll. Vol. in. p. 224. M Tour to the White Hills their names on the walls, and split off from every convenient place, memen- tos of the awful event. We imitated their wisdom or simplicity, hy saving a fragment of the hearth-stone, so often warmed and lighted by the same blaze, which shone upon the cheerful countenances of the rustic circle, happy and thoughtless of their impending fate. * This house is about two miles from the Notch, at which is the public inn, now called the " Notch House," which is provided by one Crawford, son of the notable Abel Craw- ford, " veteran guide of the mountains." In front of this is a large mead- ow, formerly a beaver pond, along the borders of which flows the head waters of the Saco, (a small stream,) easterly through the Notch. The Notch, so long admired as one of the most wonderful and interesting objects in the natural scenery of our country, is a narrow defile two miles in length, in many places barely wide enough for the road and the river, which here dashes swiftly along its craggy pathway. The narrowest part is near the Notch House, which is twenty two feet wide. This pass extends between two mighty, ragged, granite walls, surmounted by huge, rocky, cloud-capped piles, which seem the scathless turrets of nature's own stu- pendous battlements. The range, otherwise continuous, is here cloven from summit to base, presenting at once the wildest grandeur of the moun- tain scenery. There are many beautiful cascades along the side of this remarkable chasm, some of which fall almost perpendicularly several hundred feet. The most beautiful of these are Dwights' Silver Cascade, half a mile from the Notch House, and the Flume three fourths of a mile farther. The for- mer of these leaps over a succession of precipices seven or eight hundred feet,in one continuous sheet of feathery foam. The latter falls about three hundred feet over three perpendicular cliffs, and through a narrow passage between two parallel rocks, from which singular appearance of art it takes its name. While the snow is melting in spring, or after a heavy rain, there are many hundred of these sparkling torrents pouring down the lofty steeps, adding a glorious charm to the grandeur of the scenery.f The beauty of ihe mountain cascades is owing, in a great degree, to the remarkable purity of the water, which is all clear and sparkling as when babbling from its rocky fountains.| How cool from its mountain heights — how sweetly grateful one birchen chalice to the thirsty traveller ! * For an interesting and affecting history of the destrution of this worthy and virtu- ous family, by Prof, Upham of Bowdoin College, see New Hamp. Nat. Hie. Coll. Vol. hi. p. 266. t The magnificence of such a multitude of streams, descending almost perpendicular- ly from these lofty heights, and presenting to the eye a collection of cataracts, two or three thousand feet in length ; the mingled roar of the torrents ; and the hollow sound- ing echo, filling the vast chasm ; appeared to my fancy superiorto anything,wh.ch I had ever seen or read of the wild and awful majesty of nature, except the ravages of a vol- cano. Dwight's Travels, Vol. 11. p. 299. t The larger portion of this water, however, is formed by the condensed vapor, which trickles down the surface. Tour to the White Hilts. " Not a full blushing goblet could tempt me to leave it, Though filled with the nectar, that Jupiter sips." July 15th. Four lazy,stupid horses and a guide were at the door of the Notch House at an early hour.* After making suitable preparations for botanizing, and taking a comfortable breakfast,! we seated ourselves on the beasts. The guide having arranged them, single file, went forward on foot and directed us to follow. Our side-saddle companions, though little ac- customed to equestrian excursions, were anxious to hazard the fatigue of the route, for a view from Mount Washington, and drove cheerily on. By reason of some rustic dress, for which we exchanged our own to provide against wind and storm, we made quite a grotesque appearance. \ We were now ascending Mount Clinton, and six miles from the summit of Mount Washington. Slowly climbing the steep through a dense forest, for two miles, we came to the summit of Mount Clinton. The wind now blew strongly from the N. W., bringing dense, damp clouds, which embos- sed the mountains, and completely obscured the prospect. Thus damp, chilly, and fearful of the continuance of such weather, we proceeded on the dreary way. But there was little time to repine at this, before the mists rolled up, like the curtain of some vast theatre, displaying for a moment the magnificent scenery, when all again was wrapped in vapor. Several times before reaching Mount Washington, was thus exhibited the glorious pano- rama. We found the end of our journey at this summit of summits, after about three hours ride amid thick mists driven by a strong wind. Though the thermometer was not lower than 57°, we were very cold, and sought shel- ter from the blast in the clefts of the rocks on the southern side, to partake of the frugal repast, which the guide had provided, and drink the clear cold beverage, which appeared almost on the very summit. Nothing now appeared of the surrounding country. All was shrouded and dismal as before, by the chilly vapor, which blew so swiftly about us. But this was not to veil us in disappointment. Suddenly the fleecy curtain rose up once more, giving a full broad view on every side — and such a prospect ! The meridian sun shone brightly in upon the summit, and through a thousand openings in the flying clouds, diversifying the mighty landscape with checkered fields of moving light.$ Deep valleys, dense * But these epithets do not propose any fault in the animals, who were well adapted to the business, and performed the journey with a sagacious care not common to horses untrained. t The traveller among the mountains will meet a dish of trout at almost every meal" The clear, cool streams, here abound with these beautiful fish, whose flavor is very highly reputed by experienced palates. J It is not unfrequent to meet a pleasant shower in the upper regions, and no shelter to escape a drenching ! § This phenomenon was particularly worthy of admiration. Such large moving shadows of dense clouds, contrasting so deeply with the sun-light upon the verdure, spread far as the eye could reach, gave a highly animated and glorious effect to the •eerie. Tout to the White Hills. forests, rugged steeps, and wild mountains, form the adjoining scenery be- low ; and farther distant appear the rich meadows and woodlands, fertile fields, many bright streams and shining basins of water, and the ploughman's dwellings, resting like specks on the vales and swelling highlands ; and beyond these, as if in miniature arrayed, ponds and villages, and verdant hill-tops gleam far around, through the soft, rich blue of the mighty dis- tance. * Thus the day, at length, appeared favorable for a prospect, the sublimity of which was not a little heightened by the phenomena of the clouds. The summit of Mount Washington is composed of a huge pile of loose slabs of granite covered with lichens, which are the only vegetation found upon them, except a few dwarfish specimens of grass, (Carex saxatilis.) Among the lichen:-, (he Lichen Islandicus, (Iceland moss,) grows here very abundantly. Having remained about two hours, and collected a sufficient number of Geological and Botanical specimens, we began to retrace our course. The ascent was not delayed by observations, which we now pro- posed to make. In descending the "Sugar Loaf," as it is called by Dr. Belknap, which is the pyramidial pile of rocks forming the summit, we col- lected our best specimens of Carex saxatilis. Not far distant from the base of this pile,and nearly west, are the Blue Ponds, two beautiful little collec- tions of water, of the usual mountain coolness and purity. The tempera- ture of the largest of these was somewhat reduced, by a large mass of snow melting upon its borders. The elevation of these ponds is about four thou- sand feet. The snow on the mountains is seen at a great distance, presenting a very luminous white appearance, which has suggested their name. But it is worthy of remark, that snow is seldom found here in August ; and, that its presence in June and July is owing, not so much to the cold, as to the im- mense quantity which wastes very rapidly during the summer months.f As some places had but recently been free from snow, the vegetation upon them appeared as in early spring-time. The Indian poke (Veratrum viride) was just shooting up, with its large green buds, and venus pride (Houston- ia cserulea) was just in flower. Among the most interesting plants found in the vicinity of these ponds, are the Diapensia lapponica, Menziesia cserulea, Geum Peckii, and Carex * " Mount of the clouds on whose Olympian height The tall rocks brighten in the ether air, And spirits from the skies come down at night, To chant immortal songs to Freedom there ! * * * * .# * * Thine is the summit where the clouds repose, Or eddying wildly round thy cliffs are borne ; When Tempest mounts his rushingcar, and throws His billowy mist amid the thunder's home !" G. Mellkn. t These drifts are usually on the southern and south eastern declivities, being deposi- ted by the north-west winds ; and no snow appears at this season on the northern sides. 6 Tour to the White Hills. atrata. The Labrador tea (Ledum latifolium), which is very abundant on the mountains, was in full flower, presenting a very beautiful appearance.* Spending but few hours upon the mountains, our success in botanizing was limited, but quite satisfactory ; and we arrived at the Notch House,f with full bundles,:); at an early hour. The route was not so rough as we antici- pated, and much less steep. Two ladies having never before attempted to ride on horseback, ascended this day with another party, enjoyed the ride, and were but little fatigued ! || To those who have formerly toiled up the the steeps on foot, an account of a pleasant ride to the summit of Mount Washington is scarcely creditable. The vegetation of these mountains appears in three very distinct zones, viz. forest trees at the base, which are chiefly spruce, occasionally inter- spersed with the birch and maple ; above these dwarf evergreens (spruces with very dense foliage, from four to ten feet high), and next the Alpine plants. The two former clothe the sides to the height of nearly four thousand feet where the growth of small plants begins, of which very few are woody, some herbaceous ; but the chief are lichens, which give the region such a dreary aspect. The geological composition, here,is granite andgeniss,intersectedby veins of quartz. There are also some confused strata of coarse mica slate. No minerals of much importance have been found in the immediate vicinity of Mount Washington ; but several towns on the borders of the White Moun- tain range exhibit many rich localities. Franconia has long been known, for its extensive iron mine,^ and Bartlett, as also many adjoining towns, abound with this metal, though not yet mined. Tin has recently been found in Jackson,f which locality, if it affords any considerable quantity must prove of very great value. Some very large and beautiful crystals of smoky quartz, have also been found among the mountains.! * For a more particular account of the plants found here, see Notes at the close of this article, by Dr. Barratt, whom I have furnished with a set of the specimens obtained. t The elevation of Notch House is 1829 feet above the level of the sea. — Jackson's Rep. on Geol. New Hamp. 1841. t We collected about twenty species, and about a thousand plants. II Until within a short time, it has been almost impracticable forladies'to ascend, as it was necessary to climb on foot, for about three miles over rocks," in some places' very steep. The idea of a horse-path was suggested by the ' old man Crawford,' and this pass was opened about a year since, under his persevering and praiseworthy direction. Such encouraging success caused another to be immediately projected, at the "Moun- tain House," about four miles distant. This route is much less pleasant than the form- er, and a part of it is quite steep ; but the size and style of the house, and the more am- ple and pleasant accommodation, induce most visitors to pass the Notch House. The delightful view from the summit of Mount Franklin is not enjoyed, neither are'th'e Blue Ponds seen on this route, which renders it a poor onegfor botanizing. >S> This iron occurs in guiess, in abed five to eight feet thick. t Report on the Geology of the State of New Hamp. for 1841. J Some fine crystals were found near Bartlett a few months 'since.'one'of which was said to have been sold for twenty dollars. Tour to the White Hills. July 16th. Having taken breakfast with Mr. Crawford, and carefully packed our plants,|| we seated ourselves in the coach, ready for a journey homeward. In passing through the Notch we had a fine view, for the first time, of the ' Old Man of the Mountains, with the mists gathering round his hoary brow.' There is quite a resemblance to the outline of a man's face, and with a little help of imagination, it makes quite a grand profile. It appears best about two miles distant, and is formed by several cliffs pro- jecting at a considerable distance from each other, from the top of the north- ern declivity ; hence the image disappears when approached. Stopping again at the Willey House, on a small farm adjoining, we found an abun- dance of most delicious strawberries, a circumstance quite as unexpected as pleasant, to the traveller in so wild a region. We spent the coming night in Fryburg, and on the evening of the 18th, arrived at Vassalboro', whence we had departed. This route, being per- formed without accident in so pleasant a season, was of course highly satis- factory ; and as it is one so abundantly delightful, by the diversity of its scenery, and so remarkably interesting, by the opportunity it affords for cu- rious and valuable research. List of Plants collected by Mr. E. W. Southwick, on the White Moun- tains of New Hampshire, July 15, 1841, tvith Notes and References by J. Barratt, M. D., President of the Cuvierian Society of the Wesleyan University. The collection of Plants submitted to my examination, obtained by Mr. Southwick, on his late visit to the Alpine regions of New Hampshire, were necessarily gathered with much haste. Considering the short space of time he was able to devote to Herborizing, his success in obtaining choice specimens greatly exceeded my expectations. Besides the plants in the annexed list, the Lichens and Mosses were also collected by him ; these however, have not yet come to hand. I was more desirous that Mr. S. should procure a good supply of the rare Carices, and the beautiful and rare Geum Peckii, as well as some other plants, than attempt gathering a little of every thing in his way. This will account for the number of species,obtained during this rapid excursion, be- ll To collect and preserve plants in the best manner, in such circumstances, being con- sidered quite difficult as well as unusual, it may be inieresting to some, to learn the best method. Being provided with a ream of thick wrapping paper of double size, a part of this was carried up the mountains ; and the plants were laid smoothly in it as soon as collected. Thev were then tied up in rolls of a convenient size, and strapped to the saddle. Immediately after returning, the best specimens being selected and again ar- ranged, the remaining pnper was divided pretty equally between them, to absorb the moisture. The whole pile was now put between two large stiff sheets of binders board, (thick pasteboard) and pressure produced, by drawing straps tightly about them. They were thus treated during the day, while travelling, and at night, spread on the floor »T«r m much surface as possible; not a plant being removed from the papers till dry. 6 Tour to the While Hills. ing less than might have been procured by a more experienced collector. I ought here, in justice to my young friend, who has obliged me greatly by the liberal manner in which he has supplied me with these dried plants, to say, that they were selected with great judgment and discrimination, and were most beautifully preserved. diapensia lapponica Linn. Flora lapponica p. 88. This forms large spreading tufts on the summit of the White Mountains. It has also been found on the High Mountains in Essex County, New York, from whence we have specimens furnished by Prof. Torrey. We have also a Rhododendron from the summit of Mount Marcy, which is common to the White Mountains. azalea procumeens Linn. Spec. Plantarum p. 214. A small and spreading shrub of great beauty, found only in Alpine re- gions. It grows in Lapland with several others in this list of plants. ledum latifolium Aiton. Eng. Labrador tea. These specimens were gathered in full flower, when it is very ornamental. Mr. S. found it most abundant near Mount Franklin. We possess specimens of this, from La- brador, furnished us by Mr. Charles Frances Jun. of this city. KALMIA GLAUCA L. Found near the Blue Ponds. It was in full flower. arenaria GR^EENLANDICA (Spreng.) N. American Flora i. p. 180. This was found on Mount Washington plentifully, among the rocks at the base of the Sugar Loaf. It continues to flower till late in the fall. phyllodoce taxifolia Salisbury. DeCand. Prod. 7 p. 713.= Menziesia Crerulea Su-artz ; Pnrsh Fl. 1 p. £63. This is a small heath like plant. It is found distributed over the northern parts of Europe. salix uva ursi. Pursh Flora Am. Septr. 2 p. 610. Saliclum Wobur- nense p. 280 Jig. 151. Hooker Flora Boreali-Am. 2. p. 151. Mr. Pursh first described this dwarf species of willow from living plants cultivated by Mr. Anderson of London, obtained from Labrador. It was also collected by me on the White Mountains, and agrees perfectly with Labrador specimens in the Herbarium of Sir W. J. Hooker. There are besides this, two other species of willow, from the White Mountains of which I collected specimens. geum peckii, Pursh flor. 1 £>.352. Bigeloiv Flor. Boston 2d Ed. p. 208. JV. Amer. Flor. 1 p. 424 This showy and highly interesting Alpine Geum with yellow flowers the size of a Ranuculus grew abundantly (when the writer visited these Moun- tains) "among the Sphagnum about the Blue ponds, at an elevation of about four thousand feet. The plants found at a distance from the ponds, and higher up the mountain, were of smaller size. Pursh who saw the speci- mens collected by the late Professor Peck of Harvard College, named the Tour to /he White Hills. pecies after this distinguished Naturalist, who visited the White Mountains, July 28, 1804. Most of these specimens were gathered on the eastern declivity ol Franklin, where it grows in wet moss, and is there somewhat abundant within a small area. The specimens obtained at this latter locality. \\ er ■ remarked to be finer,than those growing near the Blue ponds,this might, h ever be owing to those in the last named locality, having been gathered more freely by visitors or Botanists, in a place which has now become a fashionable summer resort for travellers. carex saxatilis Linn. Schk. f. 40. Pursh jl. 1 p. 38. Torrey Cyper- acecc p. 397 ! The specimens of this Carex are in flower, the largest are 13 inches high, those of a medium size about 8 inches, while those gathered near the sum- mit of Mount Washington are much stunted. Mr. Pursh in his note on this species says, " In hemlock woods of Vermont and New Hampshire." 1 collected this Carex abundantly myself on Mount Washington, where it grows among the rocks in the most exposed places destitute of all shrubs. Nor did I meet with it in the mountains of Vermont or New Hampshire, (except the White Hills) nor has it to my knowledge been so found by oth- ers. If I might here hazard a conjecture respecting the Carex saxatilis, I would say, that Mr. Pursh obtained a specimen, or had seen it, with Geum Peckii, and other rare Alpine plants from the White Mountains, in the pos- session of the late Professor Peck, of Cambridge, and might have neglected to record the locality accurately, not being perhaps aware of its rarity in the United States, when he wrote his Flora. Mr. Pursh in the preface to his work, page xv, expressly states, that he visited Prof. Peck, and saw his in- teresting plants, from the White Hills, and that he did not himself visit these Mountains. Carex saxatilis has of late been found on Mount Marcy State of New York. (See the State Catalogue of plants by Dr. Torrey, p. 185.) carex atrata. Linn. Schk.f. 77. Willd. Sp. pi. 4. p. 221, Dewey Car. Amer. Jour. Vol. X. p. 271. Torrey Cyperacecc p. 406. This Carex is found in Alpine regions in the North of Europe. It was first discovered on the WhiteMountains, by Mr. Nuttall, Dr. James and, Mr. Drummond found it on the Rocky Mountains, and Captain Parry col- lected it in Arctic America. These specimens have not the spikes as ful- ly developed as those from Europe in our Herbarium, or the second or lower figure of Schkuhr. The tallest specimens have a spike three quarters of an inch long ! It seems desirable to compare some of these with the original specimen of Carex ovata. Rudge Linn. Trans. 8 p. 96. Dre. Boottand Gray examined Rudge's specimen, and remarked that it 10 Tour to the White Hills. was near to C. atrata, and was blackish and purplish, and between C. liv- ida and atrata. A few of our specimens would almost answer to this descrip- tion. Mr. S. has been particularly fortunate in finding C. atrata on the White Mountains, which has generally we believe eluded the researches of the keenest eyed Botanists who have visited this region. Juxcus trifidus Linn. This is as common on the upper part of the White Mountains in moist places, as the common Juncus effusus Linn, is in cold wet meadows. Eeiophorum alpinum Linn. Torr. Cyperacea p. 335. Gray Gram, Jjr Cyp. 1 n. 88. The specimens are in flower, and were found in the South eastern de- clivity in a valley near the ponds. Eriophorum vaginattjivi Linn. Torr. Cyp. p. 335. n. 2. Gray Gram, 1 n. 88. In a deep sphagnous swamp on the eastern declivity of Mount Franklin, where it is abundant. The specimens are in high perfection. Trisetum purpurascexs Torrey Flora 1 p. 127. Gray Gram.