./^^ DIARY OF A SOUTHERN TOUR IN MIOWINTER BY L. E. NEWSOM TRAVELING AGENT LACKAWANNA LINE All Ki::iits Ucservod. .NSlo APOLOGY. We are publishing this letter at the solicitation of some of our friends, and not as a literary effort, so kindly withhold any criticism of our ex- pressions. We desire our friends to have a share in our pleasure. We tell of the things we saw as we saw tiaem and of the things we heard as we heard them, but we are not in a position to vouch for all the things we heard. Dear Friends — You said you desired to hear about our short trip to Florida, and over to Cuba. Well, it would take a week's visit for us to tell you of all the interesting things we saw, and heard about, and even at that, we uo doubt would forget to mention them all, so we are going to write you this letter and let you read it at your leisure, or not read it, as you may think best after you have "looked it over.'" We left Indianapolis at 3 :30 Monday morning, December 27, on a through train called the "Royal Palm," which runs through from Chicago to Jacksonville, Fla., via Big Four to Cincinnati, Queen & Crescent route, Cincinnati to Chattanooga and Southern Ry., Chattanooga to Jacksonville. There had been a fall of snow on Christmas eve, and there was con- siderable of it on the ground when we left home, but we saw very little signs of snow after we crossed the Ohio river at Cincinnati. We enjoyed the beautiful scenery along the Queen & Crescent (C, N., O. & T., P. Ry.). Between the several tunnels along this route there are many beautiful landscapes. The view at High Bridge, Ky.. at the junction of two rivers. Is one never to be forgotten. There are numerous little waterfalls among the hills, and the clear water of the Emery river, along the banks of which the road winds for several miles, is one continuous panorama of delightful scenery. It would make a good run picture for a "movie." Our first stop was at Chattanooga where we arrived at 5:00 p. m. on the 27th. and after securing our lodgings rnd refreshing ourselves with a good meal, we took a walk in the evening over the city. It is quite a "hustling" city, and one evidence of prosperity was the numerous moving picture shows. We noted quite n good deal of public improvements were in progress. December 28th : We visited Chickamauga Park in a "sight seeing" auto bus. This trip we found very interesting. The park is the site of the old battlefield and contains 7.000 acres. There are in all 314 monu- ments, erected to all the different companies who took part in the battle, both Federal and Confederate, and these monuments are supposed to mark the positions each company occupied during the battle. We could not help thinking how much better the conditions are now, when we are all united in peace, living under one flag as one happy family. Our brothers of the South visit us of the North and f-,re welcome, and we of the North visit our brothers of the South and are welcome. The veterans of both the blue and the gray meet on this old battlefield, grasp each other by the hand, and with hearts full of kindly emotion, and eyes filled with tears, talk over the "olden times." Such places as these must be seen to be appreciated. Our trip took us up over Missionary Ridge, which is almost entirely covered with beautiful residences and grounds. We expected to take the Lookout Mountain trip in the afternoon, but the weather was bad and so foggy that we did not go. Instend we took a trolley trip up the river route to North Chattanooga, where we saw the very beautiful Country Club grounds and some very beautiful homes. In all we found this a very delightful city. We took the train for Atlanta, Ga., in the evening, at which point we arrived during a downpour of rain, and we located at the nearest hotel for the night. December 2nth. The morning was clear and pleasant. We made a trolley trip out to Grant Park, which is a zoological garden, visited the panorama of the "Battle of Atlanta." This wonderful painting is surely worth seeing. It is hard to conceive of the master skill it must have taken to paint such a wonderful picture, especially when it had to be done in sections and these put together, so as to match perfectly. We are sorry it is not better taken care of and better patronized. We found Atlanta a very interesting and thrifty city. We were surprised to find so many skyscrapers and beautiful buildings. There are very many beautiful homes about Atlanta. We were sorry our time did not permit of a longer visit here. We left Atlanta in the afternoon of the 29th for Jackson- ville, Fla., over the Southern Ry. via Macon and Jesup. We passed many cotton fields and at almost every station we noted very many bales of cotton on the platforms and in the warehouses. The soil is of reddish cast, and we noted the fields were generally in terraces conforming to the contour of the grade in order to prevent its washing. We thought possibly some of the farmers of the North in hilly localities might adopt this mode of cultivating their land and prevent washing. We found the Southern Ry. employees very courteous in giving us a great deal of information about the country as we passed along. They pointed out a tree to us near the railroad on which they told us that two negroes had been hung the day before for the murder of a white man, a merchant. As one of the negroes was being led to execution something was noticed in the sleeve of his coat, and upon investigation it was found to be the watch that had belonged to the merchant. Up to this time the negro had stoutly protested his innocence. They then confessed and were strung up immediately. Summary punishment of crime may seem rude, but it has a very salutary effect upon some classes, and I well remember when in Iiidi.ina it seemed the only way of ridding certain communities of very undesirable citizens. Some of our friends in Bartholo- mew, Jackson and Jennings counties will remember. South of Atlanta we noticed the Southern Ry. is making quite extensive improvements in their road beds, laying heavy steel rails, ballasting, putting in concrete bridges, etc. On the train we met Mr. and Mrs. Dunn, of Madussa, 111., whom we found very interesting people. We arrived in Jacksonville at 9 :35 p. m. of the 29th and were soon settled in our hotel for a good night's rest. This is our first night in Florida. December 30th. We arose early, found weather clear and pleasant. We took a trolley trip out to the ostrich and alligator farms. Here they hatch the ostrich and alligator eggs in large incubators. We saw ostriches of all ages. Quite a number six or seven months old, also sev- eral larger and older bii'ds. Some of the old ones they hitch to carts and drive around the ring while others are ridden as one would ride a horse. Performances at 10 a. m. and 3 p. m. The ostriches are caught and blind- folded before being harnessed or saddled. No matter how fractious he is before, as soon as he is blindfolded, he becomes very quiet. After he is harnessed the hood is removed. They do not seem to enjoy the work, however. This was the "off season" for plumage, but there were plenty of plumes on sale at various prices. At the alligator farm we found between 6.000 and 7.000 alligators of all ages, ranging from 500 years old to only a month. The old fellow is estimated at 500 years old and weighs 750 pounds, is about seven feet long. He is occasionally harnessed to a small cart and driven by the keeper's 4-year-old boy. One tank, about 20 feet long, was estimated to contain 3,000 to 4,000 young alligators, ranging from five to six inches in length. One pen contained the breeders, which are from 25 to 50 years old. They lay their eggs in holes in the sand and cover them lightly and in their natural state wait for the sun to hatch them. In the farm, however, the eggs are gathered and placed in the incubator, which holds several thousand eggs. They lay from June until November. One pen contained "wild alligators" or those recently captured in the swamps. They capture them by means of a "gaff hook," then tie up their jaws and bring them in. One alligator was trained to climb up a ladder, made of cleats nailed to a bo::ril to the top of a chute, and then "chute the chutes" down into the water on the opposite side. They seem to know their keei>ers. We noticed severnl of the larger ones were ''short" portions of their anatomy, either a foot or a tin. and were told they were crijipled either in fights with one another, or often in snapping their food when it is thrown' in, a fin or a foot is caught in the jaws of a comrade. The alligators hide is very valuable when tanned and is used in the manufacture of many kinds of lenther goods, as you will find out if you ever visit Jacksonville. This city owns its own water and lighting systems. Water rates, $1.00 per montli. mini- mum, by meter; electricity for power ;(t i\a-o cents per kilowatt. Jackson- ville is the "gateway" to Florida. Has many good hotels, both moderate priced, and those elegant enough for the most fastidious. The public buildings and parks are very fine. There are many miles of good paved streets and boulevards. December 31st. Weather warm and plensant. We left Jacksonville rt 9:30 a. m. for St. Augustine. Crossed the St. Johns river at 9:45 a. m. This stream has its source in the central part of Florida, and flows north and has its mouth just a few miles east of, Jack.sonville, at which ©CI,A4274«I3 m-\ 1916 point it is navigable for ocean going vessels. We arrived at St. Augustine 10 :30 a. m. Took a walk across the city and up to old Fort Marion. This is the oldest fort in the United States and was built by the Spanish. We were shown the site of what was supposed to be the "oldest house in the United States." The same was destroyed by fii'e a few years ago. They now have another "oldest house" fitted up in another street, which we presume answers the purpose. We saw Treasury street, which is said to be the "narrowest street" in the world, in some places being only six and one-half feet wide. In afternoon we took an auto trip to various points of interest, one of which w;is the ''Fountain of Youth," discovered by Ponce de Leon. The charge is 10 cents for a drink of this water, or rather they charge 10 cents to drive into the grounds and give you the drink. It tasted very much like any other water, but of course we have been feeling quite yoimg ev-jr since we drank it. We visited an orange grove where we were asked 10 cents each for the oranges. The reason for this is they are about the "first" oranges that are "seen grow- ing" in Florida. There is here also a very pretty clump of live oaks. The drive down to Lewis' Point, through a very dense original forest, is very pleasant. There are several oyster beds about Lewis' Point and it is frequented for oyster and clam l^akes. We left St. Augustine late in the afternoon for Daytona, where we arrived about 7 :40 p. m.. December 31st. Daytona, New Years Morning. So warm and pleasant we could not realize it was that time of the year. Daytona is a very pi-etty city and the winter home of quite a number of Hoosiers. We enjoyed a ride across the Halifax river to the wonderful beach. This beach must be seen to be appreciated to any extent. V/hen the tide is out it is from 60 to 150 feet wide and extends a disti.nce of 40 miles along the coast. The wheels of an auto scarcely make a mark on the sand it is packed so hard and smooth. We were told that a lady in riding over the beach a short time ago remarked "isn't this wonderful, how long were they build- ing it?" The other members of the party, it is said, were almost over- come with suppressed merriment. Messrs. Boee and Shaffer were very kind to us and gave us many opportunities of seeing the vicinity of Daytona without expense. Should we ever desire a location there we believe they could be of valuable assistance in locating. The hotels, rooming houses and cottages in Daytona are plentiful, and the rates are reasonable. We found some people enjoy this climate, as it is not quite so warm as farther down the coast. Or at least it gets cooler at times. We visited severl points of interest. Flowing wells are numerous. The "supposed to be" largest live oak in Florida (now nearly dead). Admittance 10 cents and 25 cents worth of postal cards to get out. We picked some strawberries off the vine on New Year's Day, which, of course, is nothing new in this present day. We also saw most all kinds of vegetables growing in the various gardens which we visited. The "real estate agent" is very prolific in Florida, at least "all varieties" are grown here. He or she is a very necessary factor in the purchase of real estate in Florida, or they c;;n be of great assistance in locating a hotel or rooming house for you. If you get the right variety they will be appreciated. We witnessed an industrial parade given by the Industrial School for Colored People. This institution is doing very excellent work here among the colored people. It is making of them more desirable citizens. We left Daytona at 2:10 p. m. for Titusville, at which point we were met by Messrs. A. W. and C. E. Barrs, representing the Florida East Coast Fruit & Land Co. of Jacksonville, who are exploiting some land in the Indiana River Oi-ange Gro'e District. We were taken in an auto through some very fine orange groves out to their club house at Aurantia, which is about seven miles from Titusville. Here we were very hand- somely entertained without expt ise. We shall never forget our first sight of the orange groves in the Indian River Hammocks, with the very green foliage of the orange trees contrasting with the bright yellow of the fruit, and interpersed with the cabbage palms and the live oaks hung with the Spanish moss. We four 1 that the vei-j^ best quality of oranges, tangerines and grape fruit is gr )wn in this section. In fact we found this fruit commands a much higl er price than tliat grown in any other section of the state. We learned this not alone from persons interested here, but from others whose irterests were in other parts of the country. We learned from reliable sources tbat when the Indian river fruit conies on the market the price of fruit from other sections is generally lowered. In the evening we enjoyed a very good dinner prepared by Messrs, Barrs' excellent chef. We were served with various vegetables direct from the garden, native pork, which is like venison in flavor, and various kinds of fruit. It was certainly a New Year's dinner we shall long remem- ber, as it was our first experience in a warmer climate than Indiana at this season of the year. After dinner several of the neighbors came in and we silent a very pleasant evening around the tire in the large open fireplace, which is one of the attractions of this well equipped club house. It must be rememl)ered that even though the days ai'e warm the nights are cool and a little fire is not unpleasant. You can sleep under cover every night of the year. The Florida East Coast Fruitland Co, are doing quite a good deal of experimental work. They are anticipating breaking up a large tract of prairie land they have in the western part of the tract, sowing it to grass, drilling several artesian well.s, which will supply never failing quantities of water, and developing it as a grazing proposition. The supply of water here is from one of these wells which is 125 feet deep and the water rises to within a few feet of the top of the ground. After pumping for several days with a four horse power giis engine they only lowered the water a few inches, so the supply is practically inex- haustible. After being told of many things about the country which were new to us and the hour getting late we were shown to our rooms, which we found very comfortable, equipped with all modern conveniences. January 2nd. After enjoying a good night's rest we arose to find a very spring-like morning. The mocking birds were singing in the trees all about, and the squirrels were frisking about, roses in bloom and in all we felt as though we were "just dreaming." We almost had to "pinch" ourselves to find out if we were still on earth. After a hearty break- fast our hosts took us down to see some of the new groves in the ham- mocks. We found some fruit on some trees which had been set only a year ago, but this was an oversight as they are supposed to have all fruit plucked off and the trees not allowed to bear until five years old. In preparing this land for a grove it is only necessary to remove the underbrush, pile it up and let it decay; clear a spot large enough to make mounds a few feet across, on which to set the trees, leaving the larger trees and cabbage palms for shade to the young trees. This reduces the work of setting out a grove on this land to a minimum. While some of our party were looking over the grounds. Mr. A. W. Barrs, who was behind with the machine, reported that a deer came u]) to within a short distance of him, but he had no gun. We were very favorably impressed with the apparent fertility of the soil in this section, but we are going to see more of the state before we decide to locate. Jifter going back to the club house, and enjoying ;i very elaborate Imicheon. we made ready for an auto trip I>aek to Daytona in the afternoon. Mr. A. W. Barrs loaded up from his garden two liamiiers of lettuce, two of beans, a sack of peas, a sack of potatoes, and sixteen squirrels, which he had killed on New Y'ear's Day. which he was taking home to Jacksonville. With our luggage and four persons aboard we set out. and after a Tery delightful ride over the Dixie Higliway for tliirty- four miles, arrived at Daytona just after dusk. The Barrs left us here after having dinner with us, and proceeded on to Jacksonville, where they arrived about 11:00 p. m. We might add here that Tlorida is Ituildiu':; some very fine highways, which is making the state a veritable motorists' pax'adise: especially in the winter. Almost every county in the state is voting large amounts of bonds for this purpose, and it is surely a move in the right direction. January 3rd. We spent last night at the St. Oeorge Hotel, .•nid this morning we find the weather very pleasant. We had a delightful drive about Daytona. as the guest of Mr. Schafler. The drive on Ridgfwood avenue was especially delightful in the early morning, under the arch of live oaks for several miles. At 4:20 p. m. we again left Dnytoufi, bound for West Palm Beach, where we arrived at 9:80 p. m. jind secured lodgings. January 4th. Weather clear and pleasant. Went over to Palm Beach, which lies on the Keys east of the river, and is i-eached by either ferry or bridge. Here we found splendid hotels, with beautiful grounds, also many very fine residences, and delightful drives and walks. We spent some time in wandering .about, then we secured a sedan and took a ride up to the "Garden of Eden," which is a very beautiful privately owned place covering several acres, set out in many kinds of tropical flowers, shrubs and trees. There were very few tourists here at this time, as the "season" does not open here until about January 15th, and remains open about sixty days. This place is noted for its many cocoanut palms. Many of the drives, especially along the river, are lined with these stately palms. There are also many Australian pines here, as well as the royal palm. After spending a veiy pleasant day here, we boarded the train at 7:40 p. m. for Miami, where we arrived about 10:00 p. m., and took up our quarters at the Seminole Hotel, which, though not a fash- ionable place, we found very comfortable, pleasant and centrally located. The new manager, Mr. Jewett. has had this hotel remodeled, and it is one of the best moderate priced hotels in the city. January 5th. This morning we find the weather somewhat warmer, but very pleasant. We had to don summer clothes. We took a short walk in the early morning and found the air very exhilarating. Miami is located on Biscayne Bay, which is separated from the Atlantic Ocean by a narrow key which a few years ago was mangrove swamp, and sand beach, but through the efforts of our fellow citizen, Mr. Carl G. Fisher, and some of his wealthy associates, this key has been converted into a very beautiful residence park. The bay here is spanned by a bridge two and one-half miles long. There is also a ferry line operated between the city docks and the beach. On the key is Mr. Fisher's beautiful new home and spacious ground. The mangroves were cut off down near the water, and then by means of dredges the sand from the bottom of the bay was pumped on to them and they were thus covered up, and the land was formed. There is an auto bus line leaves Miami at frequent intervals, going over the bridge, down through the park to the beach, making a trip of about seven miles for a fare of 10 cents, or a round trip of fourteen miles for 20 cents. The fare on the ferry is the same. Anyone visiting Miami should not fail to take this auto trip. The trip over to the park by means of the ferry is also very enjoyable. There is good bath- ing at the beach, also a very long board and cement walk along the beach. A few miles out in the ocean from this key is said to be some of the best king mackerel fish beds in the world and one afternoon on a trip over on the ferry we met nearly a hundred fishing boats, all coming in loaded with from 75 to 200 pounds of fish each, the fish weighing from 5 to 35 pounds each. This was certainly a grand sight for those who have not seen such things before. The cost of a day's fishing with one of the boats is from $15 to $25, and then you cannot sell the fish you catch, but you can give them to the guide, who is a licensed fisherman, can sell them to the fish market, where they bring about 3 cents per pound. We did not go fishing. We were told that the water is very rough at times, and those not accustomed to the sport are very apt to get seasick, and will have to come in. We were told that there are about 500 men engaged in the fishing business about Miami. We presume this includes some of those who are fishing for "suckers." We drove out to some of the gardens in the afternoon, where we found them picking large quantities of strawberries for market. One lady told us they would not accept $2,000 per acre for their twenty acre garden farm. She claimed they netted $5,000 annually. They looked very prosperous. January 6th. Weather warm, 70 degrees in the shade at noon; how- ever there is a good breeze most of the time. We drove out to Dr. A. R. Harrold's place this morning, but did not get to see him, as he was back on his farm some distance from the house, but Mrs. Harrold received us verj^ cordially, and said they would call in the city for us in the afternoon. Dr. Harrold was formerly of Indianapolis. Mrs. Harrold was formerly Miss Yawter, also of Indianapolis. They called for us in the afternoon, and we went out to their grove, which now practically .joins the corporation line of Miami. Tl.ey have a very beautiful location at the intersection of two paved streets. The Citrus road, which runs directly in front of their place, is the main thoroughfare from Miami to Cocoanut Grove, a suburb of very wealthy residents. The drives about Miami are very extensive and befiiitiful. After looking over Dr. Harrold's subdivision of 80 acres and spending a very en.ioyable evening, hearing them tell of the wonderful things one experiences in this climate, they took us back to the hotel, after making us agi-ee to Stny over another day and let them take us to Cocoanut ■ Grove on' the morrow. January 7tli. Clear and pleasant. Dr. and Mrs. Ilarrold were in town early with their machine and we were spinning on our way down to Cocoanut Grove. After motoring about the country for an hour or two, we left the machine at the roadside and walked down a trail which runs parallel with the beach for over a mile, passing through many spacious private grounds, where we saw beautiful lagoons, lined with rows of royal palms, cocoanut palms, flowers and shrubbery of endless varieties. Tropical plants from every country in the known world. It was cer- tainly a very pleasant path we trod for about two hours. In returning to Miami, we passed the Deering place, which is under course of construc- tion. It is to be a very large palace, built along old Spanish architectui'al lines. The building will cover several acres of space. The grounds cover over 100 acres and are being carved right out of the forest. It will cost several million dollars. Some of the material used in construction is brought from the old Spanish castles in Cuba. There will be many acres of flower gardens. A consignment of plants and bulbs just received we were told invoiced $48,000. This, place is about three miles from Miami and about a mile from Dr. Harrold's home. Afternoon — We took a boat ride about eight miles up the Miami river and canal. The little steamer carried about 30 or 40 people. On this trip we could get some idea of the Everglades of which there are several million acres, and so much eifort has been made to drain and develop this land. The fall from Lake Ochachobee, seventy miles from Miami, the head of the Miami Canal, to the sea level is only about eighteen feet, so that the matter of draining this vast but fertile region is a great problem. However, it is being solved and in course of time will be a success. We stopped at a very beautiful estate belonging to an Illinois man. The walk over these grounds was very interesting. Here is quite a large cocoanut grove. We found the Miami river up as far as the tide water reaches is lined with mangroves so thick that alligators would have trouble getting through them. We might add that there are four drainage canals from Lake Ochachobee to the coast, and in time there will be others cut through. Saturday, January 8th. Made a tour over some of the city, and in the afternoon took another ride on the ferry over to the beach to watch the fishermen returning with their catch. We found several people in bathing in the .surf. We did not venture in as we had been told of the many "sharks" in these waters. In fact a fisherman had landed a 40O- pouud cub shark just the day before while he was out fishing, and the sight of this monster cub on the dock caused cold chills to run down our spine; we didn't need a bath just then. They told us that occasinnnlly a shark was killed which would weigh SdO to l.OdO ixmnd.s. We viewed the channel, which is now- being dredged in order to admit ocean-going vessels to the municipal docks at Miami. This work will now go forward to completion as the bonds for the building of the dock, which will be Miami's share of the expense, have been authorized. This will place INIianii on the map as a seaport, and our prediction is that she will be the "Los Angeles" of the Atlantic coast. Sunday, January 9th. Clear and pleasant. Although we had promised ourselves not to travel on Sunday, we found that the time was passing so rapidly, we decided to leave Miami this morning for Key West. This is a journey over "Over Seas Extension" of the Florida East Coast Kail- Avay. and when taken in daylight is one never to be forgotten. Mr. Flagler, the' Rockefeller of the South, was very ambitious to ride into Key West in his own private car on his own railroad. This he realized about two years previous to his death. He was some years in getting engineers who would even say it was possible to )mild this extension, but he finally secured the services of a young man who deemed it feasible, and the feat of building a railroad over tidewater is now an accomplished fact. This piece of railroad beggars descrijition, and to those interested in such things it must be seen to be appreciated, as the enormity of the under- taking cannot be comprehended, especially by a layman. We were told that portions of this line cost over a million dollars per mile to construct it. There are places where we were out of sight of land. This iiortion of the road was constructed through water twenty and thirty feet deep. where half the time the tide flows into the gulf and the other half flows to the Atlantic with a current of from 10 to 1L' miles jter h(mr. Along portions of the line concrete retaining walls h:i\e lieen constructei! and embankments are being made by filling in lietween these walls with marl from the bottom of the ocean; some fifteen ocean-going dredges are now working on this line of the road but it will take several years to entirely complete it. With this road into Key West and the P. & O. car ferries operating between Key West and Havana cars can be loaded at any station in the United States or Canada and forwarded to any station in Cuba without transfer or vice versa. And we do not believe that the day is far distant when sleepers will be run through from New York and Chicago, carrying passengers through from these points to Santiago de Cuba without change. We arrived at Key West about 6:00 p. m. and stopped at the Overseas Hotel, which we found a very good moderate priced place and very comfortable. January 10th. Showers during the night. The morning clear and pleasant. As our boat for Havana does not leave until 9:30 a. m., we spent a few hours visiting about the city, navy yards, turtle farm. etc. The main industry of Key West is cigar manufacturing. This city is located on an island about five miles long by one mile wide. The navy yards did not look to us like a very formidable protection, especially against modern big guns, and when we see our miles upon miles of defense- less coast on both sides of Florida, this small station of Key West seemed to us vei-y inadequate. We left Key West at 10:;:50 a. m. on the steamer ''Olivette." being one hour late waiting on rail connection fi-om New York Cits'. We were soon out of the harbor, where the water is a vei-y beautiful deep blue, but it was not long before we saw the line of the gulf stream, where the water is black as ink. AYe are told that this gulf stream flows out at the rate of about ten or twelve miles per hour, and where there is a wind in the opposite direction from the current, it makes a very rough sea, or as the mariner calls it, "a choppy sea." We found it so, and it was not long before most of the i:^5 passengers on board were "turning in" or ''turning out." Mrs. N. fared pretty well until she went below, then she became seasick. (This confidentially.) And I found her in her state room sometime after, and she remained there for about three hours. When I went down to the dining room for dinner there were only three other guests at the table. This is where the steamship company gets ahead. They get their pay whether the guests eat or not. and the most of them do not. I took Mothersill's seasick remedy and I believe it is a sure preventative for seasickness. Some people who know, say the voyage from Key West to Havana is about like crossing the English Channel. We are told that the water here is very deep, ranging from 1,000 to 9.000 feet: in fact there are places that have never been fathomed. About 4:30 p. m. we came in sight of land, being the hills around Matanzas, and soon every- body was on deck again. Al)out 5:00 o'clock we came in sight of Moro Cas- tle, and ~>:'.M) we were passing through the narrow channel into Havana Harbor. We had read of the sinking of the Maine, and now we were passing over the very sjiot where the shij) went down. There is something strangely thrilling about this entering Havana Harbor. While the scene cannot be said to be grand, yet it is so mildly beautiful that it impresses one with a sense of grandeur. It is possibly the history connected with the place which makes it more interesting than it would otherwise be. We were soon boarded by the health officers' crew, passed the medical examina- tion, released and then off to tlie custom house, where our baggage under- went the usual inspection. One thing we noticed — that the Spanish speak- ing passengers who landed were released before the American tourists were attended to. We found later that it is customary in all ports for home folks to land first. The hotel runners were vei-y numerous and very insistent. Unless you know Avhere you want to go before you reach Havana you will laiow less after these runners get hold of you. Our advice to anyone visiting Havana, is to select your hotel in advance, and go directly to it, even though you may be informed that it has "been closed." as we cannot vouch for the veracity of the hotel runners at Havana. We made our first stop at the Brooklyn, but as they would not give us European rates except for one day, we moved to the Saratoga, which we found very pleasant, and the rates reasonable. There are plenty of good hotels in Havana, and the most fastidious can be suited with entertainment. On the eve of our arrival we did some reconnoitering. We were much interested in tlie cafes or coffee houses, where people congregate n\ the evening and drink black coffee, talk, iilay various games, and in some places, listen to music or watch the show. We found the "flower sh-l" verv much in evidence on tlie streets, selling various kinds of flowers, roses, violets, pansies, etc. Tlie prices were very reasonable and a vei-y nice bnncli of roses can be liad for from tlve to ten cents. January 11th. Weather clear and warm. Havana is a city of about 500,000. The Prado, the main street, runs the entire length through the center of the city. It is wide and has a park in the center the full length of the street. With the exception of one or two other streets, the streets are narrow, and only wide enough for two vehicles to pass, and only two and one-half feet of side walk on each side. The old Spanish archi- tecture on every side makes so much of sameness in appearance of the streets thtit a stranger needs to watch closely or he will soon lose his way. However, it is very easy to find the way back as all street cars pass Prado Central Park, and by taking any car, going in any direction, you will be brought back tu this central station, as all street car lines run in loops. Or you can call a cab at any point, show him your hotel card, and for 10 cents be driven to your hotel. We had a card of introduction to the Methodist Missionary, the Peverend Clemmens, Virtudos 10, where we had been told, we might secure the services of a young man as guide; as we were making our way to this mission we discovered in a room directly on the street, only a block from the Prado, a dairy. There were ten cows and seven young calves in the store. The walls were tiled, the floor concrete, and everything was perfectly clean and white. The attendants were dressed in white. The cows were feeding on katflr corn fodder, from an iron rack along the wall. They looked very clean and sleek. We asked for a glass of milk and one of the attendants took a quart tin with a strainer over the top and stripped a couple of cows, poured the milk in two glasses, and we drank it with a relish. We found it of excellent quality, jersey milk, for which we paid 5 cents a glass. We understand there ai-e only four of these dairies remaining in the city. They were formerly very common. We afterward made regular visits to this dairy, as we found the milk was very refreshing, and Mrs. N. enjoyed it very much. On arriving at the mission we found the young man had left a few days before, so we did not get our guide, and all our trips were made alone. The Reverend Clenuuens insisted on our seeing his pupils assembled in the chapel and we only waited a short time until they were all marching in to the music. The piano lieing played by one of the native teachers. There were over 100 children. They sang their songs in Spanish, and the Reverend Clemmens read and talked to them in Spanish. They answered the questions he put to them, and seemed to be very bright and attentive. There is a Baptist and also a Presbyterian Mission in the city, all doing good work. We are told that English is to be taught in all the public schools in Cuba as fast as they can secure English speaking teachers. We next took a trolley ride out to the ceme- tery and through some of the residential sections and returned via the bay front. We were told that the custom of burial is that the rich are buried in the morning, the middle class during the middle of the day and the very poor between 3:00 and 5:00 p. m. The graves are leased and the payments increase each year the amount of the first year's rent, so that when the living find it impossible or are unwilling longer to assume the burden of iiaying this rent, the dead ones are taken up and their bones thrown on the "bone pile." It is a case of "pay your rent or move out." The very poor are usually thrown into a trench and the bodies covered with quicklime. Persons wishing to give their dead a semi-decent burial can rent a box or cotfin in which to transport the corpse to the cemetery, where the body is removed from the coffin, placed in the grave, and the coffin is taken back to rent to the next customer. For this we understand the charges range about $10.00. In the afternoon we took a trolley trip of thirty miles out to Providencia, a sugar mill. We saw the cane plantations, where the cane was being stripped and loaded into carts and brought to the railway stations, where it is weighed, then loaded on rack cars to be taken by the engines to the mill. There it is hoisted by a crane out of the cars into a carrier, taken through a chopper which "cuts it into short lengths, after which it passes between the rollers, and eventually every particular of sweet is extracted. The iiulp is then passed through a dryer and carried to the furnaces where it con- stitutes the only fuel necessary to oi)erate the entire mill and evaporate the juice into syrup and raw sugar. We were told that the capacity of this mill is about 3.000 three-hundred-pound bags per day of the raw sugar. We uiulerstniul no sug.-ir is refined in Cuba. The entire process was very interesting. We were told the cane harvest is for about sixty days twice a year, and a tleld of cane will continue to produce without replanting for about ten years. Then the ground should be broken up and used for truck, corn, tobacco, etc., for about four years. It is then I'eset to cane. Some of the fields, we were told, had been thus cultivated for 300 years. This plantation consisted of 6,000 acres belonging to the mill owner, and about 6,000 acres more of contracted land. Oxen are used almost exclusively in cultivating the soil and in harvesting the crops. They are much more economical than other beasts of burden, as they can live well on cane blades and the refuse of other crops. The Mexican pony is very much in evidence in Cuba. He is used for riding and for pack pony. We noticed that a great many of these ponies were pacers and we would very much have liked to ride them as they seemed to be easy riders. The soil of Cuba ranges from black loam to reddish sand. The cane lands are of a reddish cast. They are certainly very rich. It is no wonder our Spanish friends did not like to give us this island. We saw some very beautiful gardens with almost every kind of vegetables growing one could imagine. The Chinese, we were told, do a good deal of the gardening about Havana. Cabagges grow to 20 to 23 pounds per head. Yams 30 to 40 pounds. Pineapples are raised extensively. Cocoa- nuts grow in abundance and we saw a great many banana fields. We took some views of some very tall royal palms. We saw the thatcli huts of the farmers, and one tiling is notable for its absence, that is. the barns. In this climate of perpetual spring, the barn is not necessary. The only thing necessary is the shelter from the rain and sun, and a thatched or tile roof is surticient. The houses in the towns are generally covered with tile, some of them with very pretty effects. Goats and donkeys are numer- ous, and the milk from both is used quite extensively. Babies may be often seen nursing the goats. This precludes the necessity of a "wet nurse" in the family. Children are plentiful and seem to be easily raised. They require little or no clothing and their food is readily obtained from the goat, the garden, donkey or cow. In the evening we decided to try a Spanish hotel dinner, price 75 cents. The soup was very good, but we stalled on the fish, as it had been cooked scales and all. The meats were fair, but an American must have his taste educated for this kind of fare. We did not feel like spending more time or money on this part of our education. After dinner in the evening we strolled about the parks, and at one place we sat down to listen to the band music. Soon we were approached by an attendant in uniform and asked for "Teekets," and as we had none, we were informed it would cost us 5 cents each. We passed on. When we reached our room at the Saratoga we decided to measure the wall to the ceiling and found it about twenty feet high. Our room had two sets of doors, one set on the outside, opening out, which reached half way to the top. the other set of folding doors two inches thick, opening in, were fitted with heavy fasteners, so we could barricade ourselves in. The windows are also protected by iron bars and two sets of shutters. This building was once an old Spanish castle, and built for fortification. Our room was furnished with two beiis, one wasli stand, a dresser and a very massive wardrobe. The furniture must have been (with the exception of the beds) hundreds of years old. The wash stand being fitted with a marble wash basin with a pail below, and the water being supplied from a tank above, located behind the mirror. In its day it was no doubt a model of convenience. At nearly every turn in Cuba the tourist will find something amusing, and he will find it is no place for a grouch. We found our pillows filled with cotton instead of feathers, but otherwise our beds were comfortable, and we slept well under cover as the nights are always cool in Cuba. We must not omit to tell you about. the railroads in Cuba. The Cuba Railway running from Havana to Santiago de Cuba is very well equipped and outside of the fact that all employees speak Spanish you would not know but that you were traveling on a first-class road in our own state. On their through trains they have sleepers and electric lighted coaches, etc. The trolley systems are well operated and are continually being extended, the longest line l)eing to Matanzas. a distance of sixty miles. From the elegant new union station in Havana, from which all trains, both steam :ind electric, depart, there is run an aggregate of 325 passenger trains daily. The freight traffic is also very good and we Avere Informed the roads were suffering from a scarcity of box cars in whicli to handle the sugar traffic which at present is the heaviest they ever had. On our trip to Provideucia we were accompanied by an official of the trolley line, who gave us much valuable information regarding the growth of the country. Especially has its development been rapid since their emancipation from Spanish rule. In the rural districts we noticed that on every train and at every station were the rural guards or militia on police duty. As we saw very little drunkenness or disorder in any way we asked why it was necessary to maintain such a force, and were in- formed that there are still some factions which may develope trouble at any time. There are no more bull fights allowed, Init cock fights are a prevalent pastime and at nearly every village we noticed the "cock pits" and were told on Sundays these were well patronized. Cuban peo- ple are anxious to learn American ways, and we understand welcome American teachers in every capacity. Many of their people, we were told, are now receiving an education "in the states." January 12th. Weather clear and pleasant. After our morning visit to the dairy we went for another trolley ride out to the village of Guanajay, about 25 miles from Hav;ina, through a very fertile valley. where we saw wonderful gardens, fields of pine;ip]iles. tobacco and bananas. This was a very pleasant ride. At Gun na jay we had the fortune to get some snap shots of a coral fisherman with his train of pack ponies carry- ing his load of coral to market. We also snapped some nude youngsters. We had some trouble in finding an interpreter in this village. There is only one man in the town who sjieaks English. We returned at noon and took another trip on a steam road in the afternoon to Batabana, the port on the south side of Cuba, from which the boats leave for the Isle of Pines. We saw a good many cane plantations on this trip and many places where they were plowing for a new crop. The Cubans make their own crude plows, which they prefer to those of tlie American m;inufac- turers. In Havana we found several all night theaters and the entertain- ments are usually varied. Some of the tlieaters : re built on the coliseum style and refreshments are served during the performances. Lottery tickets are sold on the streets, on the train, at the hotels, in the theaters, in fa.ct. eveiywhere. January 13th. We arose early and visited Havana's great daily market. This is said to be the most wonderful daily market in the world, and that every known kind of vegetables or fruit can l)e bought in this market any day in the year; strawberries, green corn, ripe tomatoes, cucumbers, cabbage, peas, beans, trojiical fruits, nuts, in fact you can buy anything to eat in this place. Next we went to the steamship office to make our reservations and get our release. It costs 25 cents to get a permit to leave Cuba and you cannot leave without this release. When we were leaving the hotel we \Aere asked liow we liked Cuba, and we replied to the question with the following lines: Oh, Cuba is a wonderful place, Surroimded by a wonderful sea. Her people, a wonderful race. With hearts full of kindness so free. Her valleys are gai'dens of beauty. With flowers and fruits they abound. Her mountains like sentinels on duty These beautiful valleys surround. Oh, Cuba, thou gem of the ocean. We hope to see of thee more. Our hearts are filled with emotion, As we leave thy beautiful shore. May heaven bless thee forever. With thy banner of freedom unfurled. May the fame of thy mountains :;nd river. Reach the uttermost parts of the world. We sailed out of Havana Harbor at 10:40 a. m. on the steamer "Mascotte" and in a few hours were again crossing the gulf stream, on our return to Key West where we arrived about 5 :30 p. m.. and after a stop of about two hours, during which time we were served with dinner on shipboard, we started on our voyage toward Port Tampa, where v»'e were due to ari-ive at 11:30 a. m. the following day. Mrs. N. took Mother- sill and was not troubled with a particle of seasickness on our return trip. January 14th. On board steamship Mascotte. Morning foggy. Dur- ing the night we had a beautiful view of "Moonlight on the Ocean." One can scarcely forget such a beautiful sight. The moonlight makes a veri- table bar of silver through the water. During the latter part of the night we encountered a heavy fog. and all hands were busy in the captain's quarters. The fog horn kept up its blasts and there was very little "rest for the wicked." The wireless also added its share to the general racket. The fog was so dense that the view of the water from the deck was almost entirely obscured. At 9:30 a. m. we sent a wireless message to our home office at Indianapolis, which we afterward found reached there at about 10:30 a. m., or in about 30 minutes after it was sent from the ship, allowing for the difference in the time. We were about 150 miles from Tampa where the message was transferred to Western Union and forwarded to Indianapolis. The wireless is certainly a wonderful invention. On board steamship Mascotte we met Father Rudolph Stahley of Sauabal Island near Port Meyers. He was very kind to us and wished to be remembered to his Indianapolis friends. He was here for several years. We arrived at Port Tampa 12 :30 p. m., one hour late, delayed on ac- count of the fog. We did not undergo custom inspection at Port Tampa, as this ordeal was gone through during our stop at Key West. On land- ing at Port Tampa we took a train for Tampa, where we arrived at 1 :30 p. m. It seemed very good to be back in the U. S. A. once again, even though we had only been no farther away than Cuba and that only for a few days. We had heard many persons who have traveled in foreign lands tell of how glad they were to reach their home land, but this feeling can only be appreciated by those who have experienced it. You feel like shouting ""Good Old U. S. A., How We Love Thee!" We found Tampa a very large city. The tourists here are principally from the central states, and we met Hoosiers at almost every turn. Around Tampa and St. Petersburg are very many good grape fruit groves, and celery farms are quite nuiaierous. In the afternoon we made a trolley trip out to Sulphur Springs, three miles. This is a very large spring, in fact, it is more like a small river coming up out of the ground. The force of the water is so strong that a person swimming in the pool cannot sink even though he make no effort to float. One of the stories we heard of Tampa was of three Italians who paid $3,000 per acre for three acres of celery land and paid .$7,200 the first year with the proceeds from the farm. "Some celery." However, such things as these are not unusual in Florida. January 1.5th. Weather clear and pleasant. Went up to New Port Rickey, a new town thirty miles from Tampa and about eight miles from Tarpon Springs. Several persons from Noblesville, Ind., have intere.sts at this place. It is on the Dixie Highway and a very pretty location, only a short distance from the gulf. It is on the Chootee river also, which is quite a good sized stream. There is excellent fishing here, and game is very plentiful only a short distance away. We very much re- gretted not having more time to enjoy these siiorts. At Tarpon Springs we heard of the mullett fishing, which is done with nets, a short distance out in the gulf. 3,000 pounds at a draw is not uncommon, and we are told that one fisherman is said to have hauled 4.700 pounds at one draw not very long ago. This was told us by IMr. Price, of Linton. Ind., who is going into the smoked-fish business at New Port Richey, and expects to soon be able to supply us with some very excellent smoked fish. The new railroad on which we traveled today made our journey very tiresome. The engine was a "wood burner" and they had to stop and take on wood two or three times in the thirty miles run. We were glad to get back to our hotel at Tampa. The conductor told us that this was his first trill during the week which he had made without having his engine de- railed at least once on the tri]). After supper we went down on Main street in Tampa and joined the "procession" of promenaders. Bought a few souvenirs and met a few friends. This is a great cigar manufacturing city. The toliacco is brought here from many parts of the world : some from Kentucky and Virginia, but it is all manufactured into "Clear Havana Cigars." January IGth. We left Tanqia this morning, boinid for Eustis, a town in the interior of Florida, as we wanted to see as much of the state as possible. Eustis is in Lake county, and the county is well named. as It has over 1,200 lakes withiu Its boundary. There are numerous orange groves in this vicinity, in fact, one of the largest groves in the state near Wildwood, is said to contain 1,700 acres; it belongs to a Mr. King, of Cincinnati, with Mr. Johnson, his resident manager. From this grove are shipped some of the famous "King Oranges." At Eustis we were the guests of Mr. and Mrs. E. L. Ferran, formerly of Decatur county, Indiana, but who have been residents of this place for thirty years. Mr. Ferran is quite well to do, and his business interests are quite extensive. He is well liked in his community, and his family is well respected. They would not think of ever returning to this climate. Mr. Ferran says that from his farm a short distance from Eustis, there is one point from which he has a view of twelve lakes, however, this is a dry county. There are five lakes in one township, and those are not small lakes either. The fishing about this place is excellent, and they can fish all the year round. They have ice here, but it is made with a machine, and Mr. Ferran owns the machine, and the weather man never interferes with his market. We hope to be able to visit this section again sometime. January 17th. Weather clear and pleasant. We left Eustis this moi-n- ing via Taveres & Wildwood for Jacksonville. The railroads through this section are built around these lakes, and it is hard to tell whether you are backing up or going ahead. You may be going east and at the same time headed for the west. We arrived in Jacksonville about 5 :00 p. m. January 18th. Weather fine. Mr. A. W. Barrs took us for an .-uito trip about Jacksonville, which we very much appreciated, as we did not see veiy much of the city on our south-bound trip. In the afternoon we paid a visit to the Union Terminal Warehouse, where we met Mr. Gay. who showed us over the building and explained to us the service they rendered. They are served by four railroads, also have access through these railroads to three steamship docks — the Clyde line, the Merchants and Miners Transportation Co. and the Maxwell line. In the evening we attended the Orange Festival and the "Mile Dinner." This is so called because the tables are placed along the street next to the curb for a dis- tance of a mile, and had the weather been not quite so cool the table would no doubt have been filled up from one end to the other, as it was. they only had about 2.00<> guests. The mayor's convention was in session, and the ninyors attended the banquet. The menu was soup, salads, oranges and ice cream, 50 cents per plate. January 19th. We left Jacksonville at 7 :10 this morning for home. We put on our overcoats for the first time since leaving Jacksonville on December 31. There was a light frost last night, and we find considerable difference in the climate at Jacksonville and that at Miami or points in southern Florida. We arrived home at 12:10 p. m.. January 21st, and feel that we have had one of the most enjoyable trips of our lives. There are a great many more things we might tell you about, which might be of more or less interest to you. but I expect you are tired of reading this "stufi'" ere this, but if ever you take a notion to talve a trip South, you will never regret taking this one. we are quite sure. We hope to some day see more of Cuba anyway. With kind I'egnrds. we are. Yours truly, MR. AND MRS. L. E. NEWSOM, March 1, 1916. Indianapolis, Ind. P. S. — We desire to thank our railroad friends for the valuable in- formation they gave us. which contributed so much to making our trip so pleasant. Among these are Mr. Hebblethwaite. D. P. A.. Q. & C. Route. Indianapolis; Mr. J. C. Conn. D. R. A.. Q. & C. Route, Chattanooga, and representatives of the Southern Ry., the Florida East Coast Line and the Seaboai'd Air Line were all very kind to us. The purser on the steam- ship Mascotte of the P. & O. S. S. Co. was also very kind to us. In fact we met nothing but very best of treatment from the railway employees all along our way, and if we can ever be placed where we can return these favors we shall certainly deem it a great pleasure to do so. We want to especially thank Miss Wright, manager of the Foster information office on the second floor of L. S. Ayres' department store, Indianapolis, for her assistance in furnishing us with so much information that we found very valuable to us on our trip. "Ask Foster offices" are found in many cities and we can cheerfully recommend them to our friends who may be in search of travel information of any kind. Their information is given gratis. /^^ LIBRftRY OF CONGRESS iillliiiilillliillil^ 014 499 043 2 "« LIBRARY OF CONGRESS ilii 111 ill II 014 499 043 2 •