\& 
 
 
 &:;-.:* 
 
 I 
 
 ESJ 
 
 :1 
 
 B IE 
 
 _i nn 
 
 6 a 
 
 Al__J? 
 
 
 B$$ 
 
 immp 
 
 FT 
 
 i_Dj 
 
 KC 
 
 ft# ; t;^^ 
 
 &'*** 
 ^ 
 
 **» 
 
 ^ran 
 
 LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 
 
 DDDD5n34SA 
 
 #4^] 
 
 
 'v:h. { 
 
Class _^^__i____ 
 
 Book 
 
 Copyright^ 
 
 COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT; 
 
jWjliil II— iiiihiiiiw iiiiiiiiiinii iiwiiiiii minimi i mini mi iiniini iiiiiiniiiiii iiiiiiiiiinii iiiiiiiiiniii iiiiiiiiiiiin iiiiiniiiiiii inn 1 1 1 1 1 i i miiiiiiiiiii i mi i inrTr 
 
 Travel Sketches 
 
 □ 
 
 of I 
 
 I 
 
 Norway, Sweden, Russia, 
 
 5 
 
 Austria, Belgium and 
 Holland 
 
 a 
 
 By 1 
 
 Grace M. Levin^s 
 
 19 Original Illustrations 
 
 Chicago 
 
 Barnard and Miller 
 
 Publishers 
 
 i § 
 
 jfa— — nr.iM.uni.ru agJpBM—— B— O— Mi B— »i.ui»Hitiniiniii»i.m, i,i.,ifin,imiiuiiiniiiii,„jiifiMl—J^ 
 
K* 
 
 COPYRIGHTED BY 
 
 GRACE M. LEVINGS 
 1915 
 
 publish ed 
 December, 1915 
 
 / 
 
 JAN 3 1916 
 
 ©CI.A420223 
 <\V9 « I i 
 
> 
 
 To 
 
 MY HUSBAND 
 
 THE DOCTOR 
 
The design on the front cover is the Castle of 
 
 Elsinore, where Shakespeare makes the 
 
 ghost appear to Hamlet. 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 Page 
 
 Chapter I : 
 
 Norway and Sweden 1 
 
 Chapter 1 1 : 
 
 Russia and Austria 55 
 
 Chapter III: 
 
 Belgium and Holland 130 
 
re 
 
 s_ 
 D) 
 O 
 
 '_ 
 
 ■!-» 
 
 <o 
 Q. 
 
 w 
 o 
 
 re 
 ns 
 
 (0 
 
 09 
 
 O 
 v 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Norway and Sweden. 
 
 We left New York on the North German 
 Lloyd steamer, Kaiser Wilhelm II., for 
 Bremen, Germany, with the intention of 
 traveling through Norway, Sweden and 
 Russia. Almost all of the passengers alighted 
 at Plymouth, and Cherbourg, leaving but 
 few of us on board and making the last two 
 days of the trip seem very long. 
 
 We went from Bremen to Hamburg by 
 train. At Hamburg I suddenly discovered 
 that my guide-book was over ten years old, 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 and that the hotel I had selected from it as 
 a place of sojourn, was no longer on the 
 Hamburg map. We therefore walked di- 
 rectly across the street from the railway 
 station, and from a row of prosperous look- 
 ing hotels, selected one and registered for 
 apartments. 
 
 In Hamburg there is one of the largest 
 hospitals in Europe. Doctor was therefore 
 off before eight o'clock the next morning to 
 visit it. 
 
 Left to my own resources, I took a cab and 
 drove quite a distance, until I saw some at- 
 tractive shops where I paid the cab man. 
 Previously on European trips I had carried 
 my own money; but this time I decided to 
 get rid of that responsibility, and had 
 handed all of it over to Doctor. After I had 
 paid the cab man I had just five dollars left 
 
NORWAY AND SWEDEN 
 
 in my pocket book. I entered a shop, selected 
 some very attractive dinner place cards, and 
 asked the price. "Twenty marks (five dol- 
 lars) ", said the shop man. I immediately 
 put down my five dollars, took the package 
 and went out on the street. It had com- 
 menced to rain very hard. For the first 
 time I now realized that I had spent all my 
 money. I could not hire a cab, and did not 
 know the name of my hotel, a few miles dis- 
 tant. I was penniless and lost in a strange 
 city. After having walked a long distance in 
 the rain I came to a Cook & Son office. The 
 manager called a cab and told the driver to 
 take me to the side of the railroad station 
 which faces the hotel. The hotel porter paid 
 the cab man. 
 
 I did not look in the box containing my 
 23lace cards until I returned to America. I 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 then found that I had about a dozen cards in 
 all, but some were broken. I am sure that 
 I had selected and paid for about three 
 dozen; but perhaps the shop man did not 
 understand my German, because in Ham- 
 burg they roll their r's at the end of the 
 tongue. They said to me in the shop, „Sie 
 sprechen schon gut Deutsch aber es passt 
 nicht hierher." (You speak good German 
 already but it doesn't fit here.) Now I am 
 quite convinced that one should not give 
 away all his ready money. 
 
 The next morning before leaving the hotel 
 I asked the clerk where I could buy a Ger- 
 man flag. He replied in a passementerie 
 shop. 
 
 In the Jungfernstieg Strasse (the path of 
 the young lady) was a post wagon of bright 
 
NORWAY AND SWEDEN 
 
 canary yellow, upon which was seated the 
 driver in a brilliant red cape, and helmet. 
 
 The architecture of the business houses 
 and hotels in Hamburg, situated around the 
 Alster Lake, is as striking and handsome as 
 any in Europe. The residences in most 
 cases are constructed of fine red brick, and 
 the coloring is very artistic. They have 
 white trimmings, finished porticoes, and 
 pointed roofs, which produce a sort of light, 
 airy, chalet style of architecture. There are 
 a great many window boxes of flowers, in 
 variegated, brilliant colorings. The general 
 effect of the city is one of substantiality, 
 wealth, artistic finish and prosperity. 
 
 The parks are beautiful; the street car 
 system excellent. In every car there is a 
 sign reading, "No woman allowed here with 
 hat pins which project beyond her hat." 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 In the old Jewish quarter there are whole 
 streets of medieval houses similar to those 
 of Rouen and Caen, in France. 
 
 After spending a day in Hamburg, we 
 took the train for Lubeck, en route for Co- 
 penhagen. One can go by way of Kiel, 
 where the famous yacht regatta is held ; but 
 somebody said that Lubeck is a rarely in- 
 teresting town, so we quickly decided upon 
 that route. 
 
 Lubeck should not be missed. The pon- 
 derous feudal gate through which one enters 
 is quite typical of the town ; for we find here 
 many antiquated buildings with quaint roofs 
 and many streets with picturesque turns. 
 
 In the Rathskeller there are wonderful 
 rooms, decorated in designs of the medieval 
 period. In two of the churches there are 
 mechanical clocks of intricate mechanism, 
 
 6 
 
NORWAY AND SWEDEN 
 
 which cause startling effects. When the 
 clock in the Dom Kirche (Cathedral) strikes, 
 a skeleton comes out on one side of the dial 
 and an angel on the other side. When the 
 clock in the Marien Kirche (St. Mary's 
 Church) strikes at noon, the figures of seven 
 electors march out, bow before the emperor, 
 and withdraw into the clock. The pulpit in 
 the Marien Kirche is decorated with large 
 sculptured figures in white marble, on a per- 
 fectly black back ground. Another striking 
 decoration in this church consists of rococo 
 gilt frames, surrounding small paintings. 
 The frames are such as we are accustomed 
 to see on Florentine miniature paintings, but 
 are very large, and the pictures are sus- 
 pended high on the walls of the church. The 
 charm of Llibeck lies in its quaint, graceful, 
 artistic antiquity. 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 After about three hours spent in Liibeck, 
 we took a cab to drive to the boat for Co- 
 penhagen. On the way I noticed a large 
 cake and coffee shop which was doing a 
 thriving business. The sign over the shop 
 read, „Zur kleinen Elisabeth" (To the little 
 Elisabeth). 
 
 The boat was scheduled to leave Liibeck 
 at 6:30 p. m. We had almost reached the 
 dock, which is on the outskirts of the city, 
 when we were "held up" by a bridge open- 
 ing. The bridge rests upon six screws, three 
 at each end. The screws revolve vertically 
 and the bridge slowly ascends, always on a 
 level. One boat passed rapidly under the 
 bridge. It was followed by another, a 
 smaller one with a single occupant, who pro- 
 pelled his craft by pushing hand over hand 
 along the brick foundation. A whistle 
 
NORWAY AND SWEDEN 
 
 pierced the air, though no other boat was in 
 view, either up or down the river; and the 
 bridge remained up in the air. 
 
 By this time a long line of carriages was 
 waiting, and fearing we would miss the 
 Copenhagen boat I asked a porter; "When 
 can we go on?" He replied, „Wenn alles 
 wieder los ist." (When everything is loose 
 again.) Then around a curve in the river, 
 fully a block away, appeared the boat that 
 had whistled up in the country somewhere, 
 and for ten minutes it proceeded cautiously 
 down stream towards us. After it had 
 passed, the bridge came down and a tre- 
 mendous amount of traffic proceeded on its 
 way. 
 
 We went aboard the boat and proceeded 
 on our journey. At this season of the year 
 it is daylight here until nine o'clock, and 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 twilight until ten. Beautiful views are to be 
 seen from the boat deck. Tall grass, a 
 man's height, grows along the water's edge, 
 and upon the banks are many lumber yards 
 and factories. Among the products of these 
 factories are white brick, cork and chem- 
 icals. 
 
 As the boat pulled into the harbor of Co- 
 penhagen next morning I noticed that the 
 docking facilities are excellent and the har- 
 bor itself beautiful. We were now pretty 
 well north, and the mornings were quite 
 cold. 
 
 Copenhagen gained some notoriety a few 
 years ago by presenting Dr. Cook a degree 
 for finding the North Pole. Having been 
 in Copenhagen, it is not surprising to me 
 
 that the Danes took up Dr. Cook, for they 
 
 10 
 
NORWAY AND SWEDEN 
 
 are a most honest and unsuspecting people. 
 Every face on the street is an open book. 
 
 Copenhagen is a center of modern culture, 
 and art has been patronized here since the 
 seventeenth century. And while I am on the 
 subject, I may as well say that the most in- 
 teresting thing to me in the city was the 
 Thorwaldsen sculptures. Thorwaldsen was 
 born here in 1770. When he was twenty- 
 seven years old he went to Rome as a fellow 
 of the Academy of Copenhagen, and worked 
 there for forty years. The work of the 
 Italian sculptors is so perfect in its artistic 
 finesse that you do not feel a humanizing in- 
 fluence. The Thorwaldsen sculpture is per- 
 fect in its technique, but he has also humanly 
 idealized it. In the church of the Vor-Frue- 
 Kirke (church of our lady) are twelve 
 
 sculptured figures of the Apostles by Thor- 
 
 11 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 waldsen, much more than life-size. His 
 wonderful Christus stands back of the altar. 
 These figures are all the decoration there is 
 in this church, but the effect is so unusually 
 striking, and withal so appropriate, that I 
 wonder more churches do not adopt this 
 simple, effective style of ornamentation. I 
 felt such elevation of soul, such enthusiasm 
 and exhilaration in the presence of Thor- 
 waldsen's work, that I do not hesitate to say 
 it is worth a trip to Copenhagen just to see 
 and know his art. 
 
 We stopped at the Angleterre Hotel, 
 which is located on the Kongens-Nytorv. 
 Late one afternoon, as I was sitting at the 
 window of the reading room, there appeared 
 on the street in front of me a huge figure, 
 advertising sandals, walking on its hands, 
 with its feet up in the air. I seized my cam- 
 
 12 
 
NORWAY AND SWEDEN 
 
 era and rushed into the street, but the figure 
 had turned into a narrow side street and was 
 lost. I thought one would see such an ap- 
 parition but once in a life time; but next 
 morning, as I was driving down the Amager- 
 torv the figure appeared in front of the cab. 
 I set my camera quickly, jumped out, and 
 ran toward it. When I got within fifteen 
 feet I waved for it to stop, and took its pic- 
 ture. I was surrounded by an interested 
 crowd. I moved up to within ten feet and 
 took another picture. I now saw that inside 
 the figure was a man in an upright position. 
 His smiling eyes were looking at me through 
 the two apertures under the word " San- 
 dals." The figure continued right down the 
 middle of the Amagertorv, threading its 
 way in and out among carriages and pe- 
 destrians. 
 
 13 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 The National Museum, or glyptothek, con- 
 tains a fine collection of sculpture, and is in 
 itself an architecturally interesting build- 
 ing. The Ny-Carlsberg Glyptothek contains 
 a collection of sculpture presented to the 
 state by Dr. Carl Jacobsen, a wealthy brewer, 
 and his wife. They also endowed the mu- 
 seum. The front part of the building was 
 erected in 1892. It is a model of its kind for 
 sculpture collections, being one story in 
 height and somewhat Grecian in style. In 
 the center of some of the rooms are sunken 
 gardens, containing fountains surrounded 
 by rare tropical plants. The specimens of 
 sculpture in this building are well worthy of 
 note, and they are displayed to excellent ad- 
 vantage by the most attractive backgrounds, 
 frescoes and spacings. Here a magnificent 
 piece of sculpture is given an entire wall and 
 
 14 
 
The Gateway of Castle Rosenborg, Copenhagen. 
 
NORWAY AND SWEDEN 
 
 a suitable background in order to heighten 
 its effect. The tourist, footsore and weary 
 from tramping the other crowded art gal- 
 leries of Europe, will be much gratified with 
 the graceful arrangement of art treasures in 
 Copenhagen. 
 
 The Rosenborg Palace, in Copenhagen, 
 was erected by Christian IV., 1610-25. It 
 was occupied by Danish monarchs, who kept 
 their jewels, weapons, robes of state and sou- 
 venirs here, up to the middle of the eight- 
 eenth century. As the sixteenth, seven- 
 teenth and eighteenth centuries were replete 
 with artistic furnishings and ornaments, the 
 castle is most fascinating. The towers are 
 beautiful ; the rooms are cozy and homelike. 
 Queen Alexandra, of England, and Empress 
 Dagmar, of Russia, daughters of Christian 
 IX., resided here when they were children, 
 
 15 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 and there are fine portraits of both on the 
 walls. I took a picture of the gateway of 
 the castle, and also of a company of soldiers 
 who were passing. 
 
 The Rathhaus is a very decorative build- 
 ing of modern style. The Frederiks-Kirke 
 or marble church was begun in 1749, from 
 designs made by a French architect ; but it 
 was not finished until 1878, and then with 
 funds furnished by a private banker. 
 
 While out walking with Doctor one day I 
 saw some highly colored aprons for maids, 
 in a shop window, worked in a clever em- 
 broidery stitch. I insisted on buying them. 
 Doctor was equally insistent that I would 
 never have use for them. However, I pre- 
 vailed, and their quaintly fantastic color- 
 ings have been a great pleasure to me ever 
 since. I also wished to buy a Danish flag, 
 
 16 
 
NORWAY AND SWEDEN 
 
 and asked the clerk where one could be had. 
 He replied, „On Kronprinzessin Strasse". 
 I asked, " Where is that street?" He ac- 
 companied us to the door and then with 
 much ceremony said ,"You are earning on 
 this street. When you can came no longer, 
 you are there." This explanation left much 
 to be desired; however, we followed the 
 street in blind faith for ten minutes, and 
 then found ourselves at Kronprinzessin 
 Street, which was an off-shoot of the street 
 we were on. 
 
 The Royal Copenhagen ware consists of 
 bric-a-hrac and table pieces. It is so beauti- 
 ful and fascinating that it is difficult for one 
 to leave the shops with enough money to con- 
 tinue his journey. 
 
 At noon we left for Elsinore, our purpose 
 being to spend a few hours there and then 
 
 17 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 take the ferry across the sound to Helsing- 
 borg, Sweden, where we expected to catch a 
 night train for Christiania. 
 
 There are difficulties connected with travel- 
 ing in a country where you do not speak the 
 language. When we alighted in Elsinore, I 
 handed my hand baggage to a porter with 
 gold letters on his hat, who seemed very glad 
 to take it. As we were going to the boat in 
 a few hours, I supposed he would take my 
 baggage to the vessel. After passing in our 
 railroad tickets at the gate, I had a chance 
 to look around, but nowhere was that gilt- 
 lettered porter to be seen. It suddenly oc- 
 curred to me that instead of a boat porter, 
 it was one of the hotel variety to whom I had 
 handed my baggage, and that he had taken 
 it to some hotel. We described the man to 
 every official in the station, from the chef 
 
 18 
 
NORWAY AND SWEDEN 
 
 de gare down. No one could help us. We 
 then took a list of hotels, selected one at 
 haphazard and drove there. We guessed 
 right the first time, for there in the lobby of 
 a nice little Danish hotel, where no English 
 was spoken, reposed my baggage. Much to 
 the disappointment of the honest porter, I 
 ordered it transferred to the boat. 
 
 We then ordered the cabman to drive to 
 Hamlet's grave. The route lies through 
 Elsinore. Does Elsinore sound familiar 1 It 
 was in the castle here that Hamlet, Prince of 
 Denmark, lived and soliloquized, and where 
 the ghost appeared to him upon the plat- 
 form. 
 
 Great oaks of a virgin forest line the road 
 leading to Marienlyst. I was plunged at 
 once from a realistic, material existence into 
 one of romantic musings. In the park 
 
 19 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 grounds of Marienlyst a little white chateau 
 nestles close against a hill. From either side 
 of the chateau narrow winding and ascend- 
 ing paths climb to the summit, which is just 
 above the level of the chateau roof. From 
 these paths one may catch glimpses of the 
 beautiful blue sound, framed between gently 
 waving oaks. A quiet melancholy pervades 
 the atmosphere, in the spell and presence of 
 history. There is a marked sadness in the 
 romantic beauty of the scene. 
 
 A mound of stones marks the final resting 
 place of Hamlet, and as many sweet-toned 
 birds as ever sang in a virgin forest call to 
 their mates among the leafy branches above 
 his grave. In the distance one can see the 
 castle of Elsinore. The place is full of 
 haunting witchery, and in imagination one 
 can place oneself among the stately courtiers 
 
 20 
 
NORWAY AND SWEDEN 
 
 that surrounded Hamlet and Ophelia in the 
 far-off thirteenth century. 
 
 Kronborg Castle is situated upon a square 
 plat of ground which juts out into the sound. 
 It is surrounded by water on three sides, and 
 as the waves lap the shore their music is the 
 only sound that penetrates the castle. You 
 linger here as if drawn by a Lorelei spell, 
 and introspection is the mood of the hour. 
 
 Shakespeare played the finest strings on 
 the harp of life ; but a poet seeking inspira- 
 tion for his songs would surely revel in Elsi- 
 nore, whose atmosphere brews just the kind 
 of philosophy of which Hamlet is the ex- 
 ponent. 
 
 A Danish princess is the present occupant 
 
 of the chateau of Marienlyst. They say that 
 
 she is also melancholy. 
 
 Among historical reminiscences the few 
 
 21 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 hours at Elsinore passed only too quickly, 
 and we took the ferry-boat to cross to Hels- 
 ingborg, Sweden. I watched Kronborg 
 Castle till, gradually fading from sight, its 
 green roof and the blue sea mingled in the 
 rainbow shades of the setting sun. 
 
 We arrived at Helsingborg about seven in 
 the evening, and experienced some delay in 
 getting through the custom house. We found 
 an excellent hotel and partook of a good 
 dinner. A short drive about town revealed 
 a pretty Gothic church, and street cars 
 painted Copenhagen blue. 
 
 It is a night's ride from Helsingborg to 
 Christiania. We had ordered our compart- 
 ments in advance, while at Copenhagen. At 
 the train, when we applied for them, the 
 agent said, Oh, yes, he had received our tele- 
 gram, but he was not giving out compart- 
 
 22 
 
NORWAY AND SWEDEN 
 
 ments until he knew how many people he 
 had to accommodate. As some passengers 
 did not arrive until the train was ready to 
 pull out, and as others had already retired, 
 there was much confusion in apportioning 
 apartments, and still more in obtaining 
 them. 
 
 After the train started those who had re- 
 tired were unceremoniously pulled out of 
 their compartments. As many foreign 
 tongues as Babylon could have produced, 
 were heard in excited protestation against 
 this procedure, as the passengers, in their 
 dressing gowns, hastily gathered up their 
 belongings. Luckily the train was not over- 
 crowded, and we were finally allotted a com- 
 partment; otherwise we would have had to 
 sit up all night, during the long ride to 
 Christiania. 
 
 23 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 In the morning a breakfast basket was 
 handed into the train, containing choice 
 fruit, and assorted sandwiches of eggs, an- 
 chovies and ham, also delicious coffee. At 
 Scarpsburg we passed a beautiful waterfall, 
 surrounded by mills; but the water was 
 going to waste over the dam, for the mills 
 were silent. There was a strike lockout that 
 day that extended all over Norway. Many 
 idle men were lounging about the station, 
 looking very discontented. 
 
 When we arrived at Christiania it was 
 raining in the superlative degree. The ex- 
 pression "It rained bucketsful" must have 
 been coined in Christiania, for that expresses 
 it exactly. It kept on raining all the time we 
 were there. 
 
 The victoria cabs here are so muffled up 
 with oilcloth coverings to protect their pas- 
 
 24 
 
NORWAY AND SWEDEN 
 
 sengers that they lose all semblance of vehi- 
 cles of transportation. We got into the cab 
 through a flap in the oilcloth covering. There 
 are no windows. I was looking out through 
 an opening to see if the general locality of 
 the hotel was favorable, when I saw in a 
 store window some brilliant Norway cos- 
 tumes for sale. I said to Doctor, "Stop the 
 cab; I must go shopping !" "Jamais de la 
 vie!" (Never in your life), he answered. 
 
 The hotel porter met the cab with a huge 
 umbrella. The hotel was so crowded, how- 
 ever, that we were obliged to drive to an- 
 other. The first thing I did after register- 
 ing was to go out in that avalanche of rain 
 and hunt up the store displaying the Norway 
 costumes and purchase them. The children 
 that I passed on the street were wearing rub- 
 ber mackintoshes reaching to their feet, and 
 
 25 
 
TEAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 rubber helmet hats like firemen, with long 
 extensions in front and rear to protect the 
 face and neck from the torrents of rain. 
 
 Christiania, while a dignified and sub- 
 stantial capital, is not one of the beautiful 
 cities of Europe. Its chief claim to attrac- 
 tiveness lies in the Karl Johannes Gade, a 
 parked street in the middle of the town, 
 with the principal hotels and business houses 
 lined up on either side. The university is at 
 one end of the Karl Johannes Gade. In 
 front of the Opera House, nearby, are two 
 atrocious statues of Isben and Bjornsen; at 
 the other end of the Karl Johannes Gade are 
 the Parliament buildings. 
 
 After doing Christiania we decided to see 
 something of the surrounding country. We 
 went to a tourist office and bought tickets for 
 a three days' circular trip, starting from 
 
 26 
 
NORWAY AND SWEDEN 
 
 and returning to Christiania. The trip was 
 mostly by carriage which was, of course, 
 ordered in advance by the tourist company. 
 
 The following morning, Sunday, July 
 23rd, we left Christiania for Sandviken, 
 where we took a kalesch and drove to Sund- 
 volen, this part of the trip occupying four 
 and one-half hours. Sometimes the car- 
 riage road runs along the level of the fjord; 
 then it rises to quite a height on the moun- 
 tain side, while to our right there would be 
 a mountain wall of rock a thousand feet 
 high, and on our left a deep ravine. 
 
 The fjords are little bodies of water set 
 among the mountains, and from what I saw 
 of them in a limited time I would say they 
 are irregularly sized lakes, with inlets from 
 the ocean. 
 
 In the country the houses are built of 
 
 27 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 Norway pine. They are very ornamental in 
 appearance and are on the order of Swiss 
 chalets. 
 
 It being Sunday, we passed many peasants 
 in the national costume going to church. We 
 saw a small chalet, on the peak of the roof 
 of which was a white board extending the 
 length of the house, and on the board was 
 painted a phrase of music, in large black 
 notes. I wondered if this was not the hum- 
 ble abode of some lonesome soul hampered 
 by its environment, and yearning for an op- 
 portunity to expand in the realm of musical 
 art, such as can be found only in far-off 
 cities. 
 
 In the valleys the fields are well cultivated 
 and appear to be very fertile. Much hay is 
 grown, and on every farm one sees row after 
 row of upright frames, each two to three 
 
 28 
 
NORWAY AND SWEDEN 
 
 hundred yards long, on which the hay is 
 placed to dry. In the front door yard of 
 every home in the country town there is a 
 flag pole, from which floats the beautiful 
 Norwegian flag — a patriotic and praise- 
 worthy custom. 
 
 At 2:30 p. m. we reached Sundvolen. I 
 had stopped the carriage so often to take 
 pictures that I thought we would be late to 
 dinner ; but the guests were just entering the 
 dining-room. I then learned that the din- 
 ner hour in Norway is 2:30 p. m., and the 
 hour for the evening meal, is at 8 :00 p. m. 
 Sundvolen owes its place on the map to its 
 hotel and about five houses. 
 
 In the afternoon, after a change of horses 
 and carriage, we resumed our drive. We 
 met many people in stolkjaerres, which are 
 high two-wheeled gigs with an extra seat 
 
 29 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 swung on behind. This vehicle is as severe 
 on the uninitiated occupant as an Irish 
 jaunting cart. There were also many bicy- 
 clists on the road. 
 
 At five o'clock we reached Honefos, a 
 place of twenty-three hundred inhabitants. 
 There is a beautiful waterfall here which I 
 wished to photograph. The time was op- 
 portune, for at this hour the sun is back of 
 the waterfall, which is spanned by a high 
 railroad bridge without a walk for pedes- 
 trians. There are many houses alongside 
 the fall, with their slanting back yards bor- 
 dering upon it. Always ascending, I made 
 my way through these backyards, climbing 
 over many fences. At one place, near the 
 top of the falls I crawled through a barbed 
 wire fence and struggled up the last steep 
 ascent over sliding rocks to the railroad 
 
 30 
 
NORWAY AND SWEDEN 
 
 bridge. I then walked half way across the 
 bridge, stepping carefully from one tie to 
 another, while the raging cataract below 
 threw spray into my face. I took several 
 pictures, and returned to the end of the 
 bridge without encountering a train. On my 
 arrival home I found that not one of the 
 pictures was good. 
 
 As we had two hours before the evening 
 meal, we wandered out into the garden, 
 which is on the bank of the river Baegna. 
 The river here is quite swift. Two men in a 
 canoe were making their way across the 
 rapids and fishing at the same time. It re- 
 quired considerable skill to hold their little 
 boat against the current while making a 
 catch. 
 
 In looking over the hotel register we dis- 
 covered that among our fellow guests were 
 
 31 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 travelers from Russia and Norway and suf- 
 fragettes from Finland. After each name 
 the signer's profession was noted; as "Mr. 
 Brown, professor;" "Mr. Green, advokat;" 
 "Mr. Black, student;" as the case might be. 
 
 After the evening meal of fish, cold meats 
 and a variety of cheeses, we retired to our 
 room ; through its windows the musical and 
 soothing murmur of the tumbling waterfall 
 lulled us to sleep. 
 
 We left for Kongsberg by an early train 
 next morning, making short stops at many 
 towns on the way. At almost every town 
 there is a fascinating waterfall. We arrived 
 at Kongsberg the second day about 11 a. m. 
 Kongsberg has about fifty-six hundred in- 
 habitants and is situated on both banks of 
 the Laugen. 
 
 In the neighborhood of Kongsberg are two 
 
NORWAY AND SWEDEN 
 
 silver mines, discovered during the reign of 
 Christian the IV., in the sixteenth century. 
 The mines are now almost worked out, but 
 the inhabitants of Kongsberg attach as much 
 significance to them as if they were the most 
 important thing in Norway, and specimens 
 of the ore are kept for sale in the shops. 
 
 The houses in Kongsberg are timber-built. 
 There is a church erected in the eighteenth 
 century, which is said to be the most famous 
 church in Norway. The outside, however, is 
 most unattractive. 
 
 For dinner we went to the Grand Hotel. 
 The principal dish at dinner in Norway is 
 fish, which is caught every day from the 
 mountain streams and lakes with which this 
 country abounds. There seems to be a dif- 
 ferent variety of fish at every hotel, and 
 what particularly impressed me is the deli- 
 
 33 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 cious manner in which it is prepared. I did 
 not notice a preponderance of butter or 
 cracker crumbs. I did not succeed in getting 
 any of their recipes, but I do know that 
 Norway fish prepared by Norway cooks is 
 one of the famous dishes of the world. 
 
 The quaint timber-built country hotels in 
 Norway compare favorably with those in 
 France. The sleeping rooms are cool, quiet, 
 comfortable and scrupulously clean. 
 
 After dinner our carriage, which had been 
 ordered in advance, was called out for the 
 loading of the baggage. A stolkjaerre also 
 stood in the court yard, apparently ready for 
 a long drive. It is surprising how much lug- 
 gage these small vehicles are capable of 
 carrying. 
 
 Our carriage, or kalesch, had two seats, 
 facing each other. They were upholstered 
 
 34 
 
NORWAY AND SWEDEN 
 
 in brilliant red plush, with carriage trim- 
 mings in the same color. In case of rain the 
 victoria top is pulled up. The heavy bag- 
 gage was strapped on behind, and the 
 smaller pieces put inside or up with the 
 driver. 
 
 The Norway horses are perfectly fascinat- 
 ing. They are small, muscular and hardy, on 
 the pony style. Their manes are very long 
 and pretty and their eyes are bright and 
 intelligent. Considering its small size, it is 
 remarkable how much work one of these 
 horses can do. We had a very good team 
 that afternoon. They pulled the heavy car- 
 riage up the hills and mountain sides with- 
 out apparent fatigue, and we reached Notod- 
 den at seven in the evening. The driver was 
 very proud of his horses, and when I took 
 a picture of them he requested me to send 
 
 35 
 
TKAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 him one. It is needless to state that this 
 request was complied with as soon as I 
 reached home. The next morning the driver 
 started back over the mountains, without 
 passengers, having a quantity of hay 
 strapped behind the kalesch for the use of 
 the horses during the journey. 
 
 I noticed that our room in the hotel at 
 Notodden was heated and lighted by electric- 
 ity. I asked the maid for a key to the room. 
 She reported that the key could not be 
 found, and that it had been a long time since 
 any one had asked for a key to the room. I 
 asked her to give me the name of some street 
 and shop where I could purchase photo- 
 graphs of the town. "Oh," she replied, "our 
 streets have no names." 
 
 At Notodden there is a waterfall sixty-five 
 feet high, called the Tinfos, the power of 
 
 36 
 
NOEWAY AND SWEDEN 
 
 which is used to operate several manufactur- 
 ing plants situated at its base. Several miles 
 above the Tinfos are two other falls, called 
 Lienfos and Svaelgf os. A canal, which has 
 been in the course of construction for several 
 years, extends from Svaelgfos to Notodden. 
 The water is led through three conduits, 
 making an abrupt descent into the factories. 
 Each conduit produces fifteen thousand 
 horse power, which is used to generate elec- 
 tricity and for manufacturing purposes. 
 The company owns and operates a pulp mill 
 and lumber mill ; makes pig-iron ; manufac- 
 tures saltpetre from the nitrogen of the air ; 
 and supplies the city with light and heat, all 
 by means of electricity. 
 
 At the office of the factory we met the en- 
 gineer who discovered and patented the 
 process of making pig-iron by electricity. I 
 
 37 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 asked him how much it cost to build the 
 canal. He said it could be sold for seven 
 million kronen. I then asked who owns the 
 water power in Norway. " Anyone who 
 owns the contingent property," he replied. 
 " Where did they get the money to build the 
 canal?" I inquired. "They made it in the 
 factories at Tinfos," he answered. "How 
 long have the factories been running?" I 
 asked. "About five years," he replied. 
 Seven million kronen represents approxi- 
 mately two million dollars, accumulated in 
 five years, by men still in the prime of life. 
 You can figure for yourself the business op- 
 portunities afforded by Norway water 
 power. 
 
 On the engineer's desk was a photograph 
 of the president of the company with his 
 family, a cleancut, middle-aged Englishman, 
 
 38 
 
aLSa^^C* -.;\. 
 
 The Church at Hitterdal, Norway. 
 
NORWAY AND SWEDEN 
 
 with a handsome wife and three healthy, fine 
 looking children. I afterward saw the fam- 
 ily out driving in style. 
 
 The next morning we took a stolkjaerre 
 for a twelve-mile ride to the church at Hit- 
 terdal. The road lies along the Hitterdals 
 vand (lake), which was glimmering in the 
 bright morning sun. We had to cling tight 
 to the stolkjaerre, and when I jumped off at 
 one time to photograph some girls in bright 
 costumes on their way to school, I feared the 
 vehicle would upset. 
 
 The timber-built church at Hitter dal 
 dates from the twelfth century and possesses 
 uncommon interest. It has many pointed 
 steeples, assembled in a manner of perfect 
 symmetry that could only be called artistic. 
 High up are six windows, that do not seem 
 to be larger than port holes. The interior of 
 
 39 
 
TEAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 the church is therefore quite dark, like 
 churches are supposed to have been, they 
 told us, in Solomon's time. Around the 
 church runs a low arcade, like a broad eave, 
 probably for the protection of the congrega- 
 tion when it rains. During service the men 
 sit on one side and the women on the other. 
 In front of one section of pews there is a 
 blackboard, on which people who have 
 prayed write their names. In front of an- 
 other section is another blackboard, on which 
 those write their names who have not prayed. 
 The campanile, built of wood and brown 
 with age, is very interesting. We were told 
 that it is second in renown to the famous 
 campanile of St. Marks, Venice. After 
 securing photos, we mounted the stolkjaerre 
 for the journey back to the hotel for dinner, 
 having acquired prodigious appetites the en- 
 
 40 
 
NORWAY AND SWEDEN 
 
 tire forenoon in the fresh air, among the 
 pines and mountains. In the dining room 
 was a long table, after the old fashioned con- 
 tinental style. Opposite us sat a comfort- 
 able looking individual with an aquiline 
 nose. He wore a seal ring and had a semi- 
 pious demeanor. His conversation was in 
 English and was characterized by cheerful- 
 ness and good humor. I mentally classified 
 him as a bishop. 
 
 The table was set with edibles, but there 
 was no one in attendance to pass them. The 
 "Bishop" conversed fluently. He would 
 begin a sentence, then get up from his seat, 
 and with a few long strides reach the other 
 end of the table, where, with a free sweep 
 of his arm, as if snatching flies, he would 
 encompass a couple of Vienna rolls in his 
 palm, and return to his seat before he had 
 
 41 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 reached the end of his magnificent flow of 
 Oxfordian diction. Again he would com- 
 mence an extemporaneous discourse that 
 would have done credit to Mark Antonv, 
 and start on an exploring tour in search of 
 the coffee urn at the opposite end of the 
 table. Then standing easily, with the urn 
 poised high in the air, he would gracefully 
 pour the coffee, plaintively remarking, "It 
 is so humiliating to ask for things and not 
 be understood, you know." 
 
 He also had been to visit the church at 
 Hitter dal in a stolkjaerre. "When I first 
 climbed up in the vehicle," he said, "I 
 thought grim death stalked ahead of me ; but 
 after a while I rather liked it, you know. 
 The problem, however, is how to get out of it, 
 because if you lean too heavily to one side 
 you turn over the whole show, you know. ' ' 
 
 42 
 
NORWAY AND SWEDEN 
 
 I asked him, "What is the population of 
 Norway?" He answered, "About four and 
 one-half millions of people, of which two 
 millions are in the United States." He said 
 he saw a funeral that morning. "It is not a 
 very lively tale, you know," he continued: 
 "they were all at the grave and singing the 
 St. Mathew music from Bach. The minister 
 and his wife were very plump, you know. 
 But such discords I never heard in my life. 
 I said to myself, 'If that is the way you sing, 
 you poor things, no wonder you are getting 
 buried.' " 
 
 Then the long table was filled and con- 
 versation became more general. There were 
 thirty people at the table and I heard Nor- 
 wegian, Russian, German and French 
 spoken, but only Doctor, the "Bishop" and 
 I spoke English. 
 
 43 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 At 6 :15 that evening we took the steamer 
 Henrik Ibsen for Skein. The boat proceeds 
 along the picturesque Hitterdals Vand with 
 cliffs and hills rising from each shore. The 
 twilight deepens by slow degrees, and when 
 we reached the wharf at Skein at ten o'clock 
 it was full evening. The steamer on this 
 course goes through several locks. 
 
 Skein is the birthplace of Henrik Ibsen, 
 the dramatist. There is a large theater here. 
 The principal industry is the manufacture 
 of wood pulp and paper. One mill has nine 
 engines, and makes more paper than all 
 Norway could use. This paper is shipped to 
 China, Africa, the United States and other 
 parts of the world. Men laborers in Skein 
 get three and one-half to six kronen a day 
 and work ten hours. 
 
 Early the next morning we took the train 
 
 44 
 
NORWAY AND SWEDEN 
 
 for the return trip to Christiania. The train 
 proceeds along the Drammen and Chris- 
 tiania Fjords and seems interminably slow; 
 but the scenery from the car window is in- 
 variably beautiful. Through trains travel 
 only at night. It was interesting to watch 
 the passengers. When a Norwegian lady 
 enters a train, she first locates her bundles, 
 then takes an air pillow from a bag and 
 blows it up, places it under her head, and 
 then settles down to read. 
 
 In the small towns the men raise their 
 hats to each other in passing. 
 
 We arrived in Christiania in the after- 
 noon, and left the following morning at eight 
 for Stockholm, Sweden, arriving there about 
 ten o'clock that evening. On this trip the 
 train is never out of sight of water ; there are 
 placid ponds, lakes, canals, and creeks, but 
 
 45 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 always water. Somebody has said that when 
 God made water and afterwards created 
 land he forgot Sweden. 
 
 On arriving at Stockholm we went to the 
 Grand Hotel. This hostelry at that time 
 was everything its name implied. From the 
 front windows we looked out upon the lake 
 and the illuminated buildings, which pre- 
 sented a picture quite similar to that pro- 
 duced by the wonderful illuminations at 
 Chicago's World's Fair Exposition. Our 
 room was quite magnificent; the finest bro- 
 caded satin, the best linen and beautiful lace 
 were employed in its furnishings. A maid 
 in trig attire answered the bell with a court- 
 sey. 
 
 As was our custom when visiting an im- 
 portant city, we first took a general drive 
 around Stockholm in order to locate points 
 
 46 
 
NORWAY AND SWEDEN 
 
 of special interest. The city is built on is- 
 lands; there are twelve hundred and sixty 
 of them in the Malar Lake. Much of the 
 transportation is by feriy-boats. We did 
 not understand the Swedish language, but it 
 did not interfere with our pleasure. We 
 would board one of the little ferries, not 
 knowing its destination, get off when it 
 reached a dock, and board a second ferry 
 
 boat which would land at a third dock. We 
 clattered on and off the boats, shouting with 
 laughter, because we had not the slightest 
 idea where our little journey would termi- 
 nate. The nattily costumed boat officials 
 seemed aware of our venture, but they re- 
 frained from the slightest smile. On the 
 street cars we would say in one breath, 
 "Combien<?" "Wie viel?" and "How 
 much?" If none of these languages proved 
 
 47 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 effective, we would hold out a few small 
 coins, from which the conductor would gen- 
 erally select ten ore. 
 
 In the Art Gallery there are several fine 
 Rembrandts ; but pictures by Swedish paint- 
 ers are excellent and they constitute a very 
 fine collection. 
 
 In the Northern Museum there is as- 
 sembled a collection of furniture and cos- 
 tumes belonging to different phases of Swed- 
 ish life that does great credit to its founder, 
 Dr. Hazlius. On the first floor there is a 
 magnificent sweep of rooms with booths ar- 
 ranged along the wall, fitted up as living 
 rooms with peasant furniture, pottery, bric- 
 a-brac and various utensils, all showing the 
 customs of the period. It is extremely in- 
 teresting to observe how the peasants, with 
 a few bright, strong colors, decorated their 
 
 48 
 
NORWAY AND SWEDEN 
 
 walls and their furniture, producing very 
 striking effects. 
 
 The display on the second floor illustrates 
 the customs and surroundings of a thriftier 
 class of people. Here the furniture is ma- 
 hogany and the costumes more simple. On 
 the third floor are the royal rooms. 
 
 The whole collection is a liberal education. 
 It contains a vast amount of material which 
 the average tourist would otherwise have to 
 travel many miles and spend hours of re- 
 search in order to discover. Were it not for 
 Dr. Hazlius' work, these things would soon 
 pass out of the memory of man, as Sweden, 
 along with the rest of Europe, is being 
 rapidly modernized. The collection is housed 
 in a building with many gables in imitation 
 of sixteenth century architecture. The roof 
 reminded me of the Chateau Chambord, the 
 
 49 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 Cathedral of Caen, in France, and Castle 
 Rosenborg in Copenhagen. 
 
 In the evening we went to visit Skansen, a 
 park of seventy acres, containing rocky hills, 
 lakes, pastures and fields; also an Eskimo 
 village, with huts, dog sleds and Eskimo 
 dogs. There is also a good collection of 
 moose, elks, reindeer and other objects of in- 
 terest. About eight o'clock in the evening, 
 at the sound of a bugle, picturesque maidens, 
 dressed in their national costumes, assemble 
 from the various chalets in the park and 
 dance the folk dances upon a raised plat- 
 form in the center of a beautiful green 
 sward, to the music of three musicians. 
 
 Never will I forget those musicians. They 
 were supposed to represent the three musi- 
 cians in a famous painting returning home 
 on foot in the early morning from a country 
 
 50 
 
NORWAY AND SWEDEN 
 
 dance. One wore a long white flannel coat, 
 white stockings, and pumps, and played an 
 instrument shaped like a whale. Another 
 wore a red and blue knitted cap with a long 
 tassel. 
 
 The music commenced; the procession 
 started, and the merry troupe in brilliant 
 neck shawls, dainty caps, tidy aprons and 
 pretty dancing shoes, fluttered along to the 
 platform. Then these youthful spirits, ar- 
 rayed in this revel of color, began the dance. 
 After watching them for some time, I ar- 
 rived at the conclusion that all of the cotil- 
 lion figures of the present day are derived 
 from the folk dances. These are far more 
 interesting than the waltz and two-step, 
 though not so personal. 
 
 One-half the dancers withdrew from the 
 others, thus forming two equal divisions. 
 
 51 
 
TEAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 On one side the couples joined hands and 
 formed a London bridge figure; then the 
 first couple took the lead, and the others fol- 
 lowed, all dropping their hands, dancing 
 under the bridge and forming a new bridge 
 at the other end. While this figure was re- 
 peated several times, the other division of 
 dancers was executing a beautiful wheel 
 figure. 
 
 Many beautiful peasant costumes may be 
 seen on the streets and in the parks. Stock- 
 holm is the only European city of impor- 
 tance where the custom of wearing them is 
 encouraged. 
 
 Among the magnificent public buildings in 
 Stockholm should be mentioned the House 
 of Parliament, the Royal Theater, the 
 Opera House, and the Central Museum of 
 Biology. There are beautiful parks, gardens 
 
 52 
 
NORWAY AND SWEDEN 
 
 and monuments. With its style, grace, reg- 
 ularity and cleanliness Stockholm is one of 
 the most restful and agreeable of the Euro- 
 pean capitals. Both the city and the people 
 make an excellent impression on the for- 
 eigner. 
 
 On extremely hot days, when the ther- 
 mometer registers ninety or one hundred in 
 the heart of the city, a mild and pleasant 
 temperature may be found in the parks, 
 within twelve minutes walk. In these parks 
 the landscape gardening is developed to per- 
 fection, and they are decorated with unique 
 bronze fountains. The trees are old spread- 
 ing oaks and elms, and there are a great 
 variety of beautiful plants. I saw ribbon 
 grass, which with us is used for decorative 
 
 53 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 centers of vases, growing as high as a tree, 
 and a fine variety of fern equally high. 
 
 In Stockholm the cost of living is very 
 high and they import more than they export. 
 
 54 
 
CHAPTER II. 
 
 Russia and Austria. 
 
 While in Stockholm, we decided one morn- 
 ing to start for Russia that day. We went 
 to the boat office, and were told a vessel 
 would leave that evening, but that all ac- 
 commodations were sold out. However, the 
 clerk added, perhaps some official of the 
 boat would give up his room for sufficient 
 compensation. We went to the dock where 
 the boat lay, and a man with a gilt lettered 
 cap was brought forward by an official. This 
 man said he was the chief engineer, and 
 
 55 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 would give up his room for a consideration. 
 We requested to see the room, and leading 
 the way he began to descend from one deck 
 to another. After going down three decks 
 we found ourselves in the machinery room. 
 He opened the door of a little inside room 
 opposite the engine. The ceiling was very 
 low and the berth a sort of shelf. We 
 thanked the engineer but politely declined 
 the accommodation. The boat was to leave 
 at eight in the evening, and about fifteen 
 minutes before starting time some one re- 
 leased a first-class room, which we secured. 
 
 The sailors were just about to pull in the 
 gang plank when an automobile dashed up 
 on the wharf. Its two passengers, together 
 with a basket trunk, a carryall, four tele- 
 scopes, a satchel, a basket of fruit, an armful 
 
 56 
 
RUSSIA AND AUSTRIA 
 
 of roses and four other parcels were taken 
 aboard, and we were off for Russia. 
 
 The boat proceeded northward along the 
 shore of the Malar Lake. For miles and 
 miles the beautiful summer homes of the 
 people of Stockholm dot the shore, which is 
 indented by rocky coves, and softened with a 
 variety of natural scenery and verdure. 
 
 While on the map the trip from Stock- 
 holm looks like a long one on an open sea, 
 it is really not so ; for nearly all the way the 
 boat travels in a protected sea sheltered by 
 numerous islands. It is one of the most 
 delightful cruises in the world. The sea is 
 never rough in July and August, and I think 
 the Captain said that at certain seasons of 
 the year there are only four hours of dark- 
 ness at night. 
 
 About three o 'clock on Sunday afternoon, 
 
 57 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 after three days and two nights of sailing, 
 we approached Helsingfors, Finland. The 
 golden domes of a church situated upon a 
 high elevation shone out for miles over the 
 sound. We thought we were coming into 
 Russia. Finding that we would have several 
 hours on land, Doctor went to the captain to 
 have some travellers' cheques changed into 
 Finnish money. But the Captain said, "Oh, 
 that is all right, I will give you all the money 
 you want to spend and we will settle when 
 we reach Petrograd. ' ' Thereupon he opened 
 a drawer and invited Doctor to take what 
 money he needed, not even making a memo- 
 randum of it. 
 
 A drive of several hours around Helsing- 
 fors proved very interesting. A large part 
 of the population, in their Sunday clothes, 
 were on the streets and in the parks. If I 
 
 58 
 
RUSSIA AND AUSTRIA 
 
 may be allowed the observation, judging 
 from the appearance of the people there is 
 no upper or lower class. The grade seemed 
 to be rather invariable, and all belong to the 
 middle class. 
 
 While the architecture of the churches in 
 Helsingfors is of the brilliant Russian style 
 and coloring, that of the other public build- 
 ings is more forcible than artistic. 
 
 In Finland the suffrage movement origi- 
 nated very early, and I understand that a 
 woman will drop anything she is doing to go 
 campaigning and make stump speeches. 
 However, I did not see any men promenad- 
 ing in the parks with frock coats minus but- 
 tons, though the ladies I saw were distin- 
 guished by force rather than by beauty and 
 grace. 
 
 Again we took the boat, and by noon the 
 
 59 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 next day we were nearing Petrograd. The 
 approach is magnificent. All along the banks 
 of the canal are large boats heavily loaded 
 with lumber, grain and other cargoes rep- 
 resenting great industry and immense 
 shipping. But above all the marts of trade 
 shine out the golden domes of Petrograd, 
 sparkling in the noon day sun. 
 
 Just before our boat docked it was boarded 
 by several sharp looking inspectors in pre- 
 tentious official costumes, for the purpose of 
 examining passports. They were tall, had 
 hooked noses, and wore long gray military 
 overcoats. They seated themselves at a table 
 at one end of the dining room, and the pas- 
 sengers were lined up and instructed to pass 
 the table and have their passports inspected. 
 So precise was the scrutiny administered to 
 each document that, although Doctor was 
 
 60 
 
RUSSIA AND AUSTRIA 
 
 third in line, it was an hour before we got 
 off the boat. Meanwhile I walked up and 
 down the deck and viewed the city. I 
 noticed that the streets in this district were 
 dirty like our ghettoes. The houses are tall 
 and elongated, and the windows are slant- 
 eyed. 
 
 After going through the custom house we 
 looked about for a cab. The cab drivers were 
 clamoring, gesticulating and fighting. It 
 was all the same thing to us, for we did not 
 understand a word of Russian. We loaded 
 our things on a cab and gave the driver the 
 name of a hotel. He nodded, and then 
 promptly drove to another hotel. It looked 
 all right, so we simply put up there. As soon 
 as we had selected a room our passport was 
 immediately demanded and sent to the chief 
 of police. The clerk said it would be re- 
 
 61 
 
TEAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 turned to us when we were leaving. We now 
 felt as if we were under the constant surveil- 
 lance of the police. On being conducted to 
 our room, we found it was being cleaned by 
 a house man wearing boots reaching to the 
 knees and a red cotton Russian blouse. 
 
 Among our baggage was a steamer trunk, 
 upon the top of which was painted, in large 
 letters, my maiden name. I ought to have 
 purchased a new one before starting ; but a 
 trunk you know, is such a friend ; it shelters 
 your souvenirs and protects your valuables ; 
 it withstands the storms and tempests of 
 travel while sustaining many a hard knock. 
 When you open it all the corners are famil- 
 iar ones, and you pack your things without 
 any loss of nerve energy or waste of time in 
 solving new inventions. Well, when we left 
 our room and started down stairs the halls 
 
 62 
 
KUSSIA AND AUSTRIA 
 
 seemed quiet. But suddenly and unexpect- 
 edly a red-bloused man would appear in a 
 doorway or at the end of a passage, and eye 
 us suspiciously. When we reached the office 
 the clerk halted us and said to me, "What 
 is your name?" I told him. "That is not 
 the name on your trunk, ' ' he replied. ' l What 
 is your first name?" I gave it. "Very 
 well," he said, "As that corresponds to your 
 passport I suppose it is all right." 
 
 Before leaving America I had visited the 
 Russian Consul and asked him what liberties 
 I would have in Russia to take photographs. 
 He replied that he was unable to give defi- 
 nite information on that subject, as the 
 police regulations were constantly changing, 
 and I would better visit the American Con- 
 sul in Petrograd on my arrival. So we 
 
 63 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 called a cab and told the man to drive us to 
 the American Consulate. 
 
 On entering the Consulate the atmosphere 
 changed at once, becoming breezy and 
 American. The Consul wrote the custom- 
 ary letter to the chief of police, requesting 
 that I be allowed to take photographs in 
 Petrograd. There are many restrictions in 
 Russia in regard to photography. Eor in- 
 stance, photographs cannot be taken of 
 marching soldiers, or of any of the fortifica- 
 tions. Severe penalties are imposed for 
 breaking the rules. 
 
 A traveler in Petrograd naturally visits 
 St. Isaac's Cathedral first, because it is the 
 most important church there. It is built in 
 the form of a Greek cross, and is surmounted 
 by a dome more beautiful than that on the 
 capitol at Washington, or the one that 
 
 64 
 
re 
 
 o 
 
 Q. 
 
 3 
 </) 
 
 DC 
 
 o 
 
 3 
 
 O 
 
RUSSIA AND AUSTRIA 
 
 crowns des Invalides in Paris. On entering 
 the church one gets the impression that this 
 great building is lined with solid gold. 
 Velvet toned pillars of malachite and lapis 
 lazuli decorate the interior, and immense 
 solitaire jewels shine out of the crowns of 
 the ikons. The ikon, which is made to repre- 
 sent a saint, is the principal decoration in 
 Russian churches. Life-sized ikons line the 
 walls of St. Isaac's Cathedral. The head 
 drapery and garments are made of gilded 
 silver. 
 
 More individually Russian is the Church 
 of the Memorial, erected on the spot where 
 Alexander the II. was assassinated. The 
 exact location of the assassination is covered 
 by a handsome tomb, inside the church. It 
 is also called the Church of the Expiation, 
 and is surmounted by many Muscovite 
 
 65 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 domes. Upon the interior walls are pictures 
 done in Russian mosaics, representing the 
 life of Christ. One of the most striking 
 portrays the scene in which Christ is taken 
 from the cross. There are only three figures 
 in this picture. In the background the 
 mosaics take the red, rose and pale gold 
 tints of the setting sun. In the foreground 
 the golden halo around the head of the re- 
 clining Christus shines dimly. In two other 
 holy pictures the drapery is made of solid 
 seed-pearls. The screen in front of the 
 altar is surmounted by three crosses two feet 
 high, made of large solitaire topazes that 
 gleam from afar. These stones are called 
 Russian diamonds. The golden domes on 
 the churches are regilded in three-ply gold 
 leaf once a year, at enormous expense. 
 The Hermitage, which was originally a 
 
 66 
 
RUSSIA AND AUSTRIA 
 
 palace built by Catherine II. as a retreat 
 from the cares of state, is now an art gal- 
 lery. There are forty rooms devoted to 
 paintings. In the collection are many paint- 
 ings of the old masters— Murillo, Rem- 
 brandt, Van Dyke, Rubens and other famous 
 artists. These pictures were assembled by 
 Catherine II., and her successors, with that 
 magnificent disregard of expenditure which 
 characterizes the Russian government when 
 it sets out to obtain something really fine. 
 This collection is well arranged, and has no 
 superior in the world. 
 
 One room in the Hermitage is reserved 
 for the jewels and personal effects of royalty 
 when not in use. Every party entering the 
 room must be accompanied by a guide, and 
 the number of persons allowed in the room 
 at one time is limited. Among other jewels 
 
 67 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 kept here is a replica of the coronation 
 crown; and a number of royal watch fobs. 
 These fobs are approximately eight inches 
 long and two inches wide. In the center, 
 extending lengthwise, are three rubies, large 
 as lima beans, and the intermediate spaces 
 and ground work of the fobs are set solidly 
 with diamonds. Standing upright on the 
 four corners of a small gold clock are bou- 
 quets of flowers, worked in jewels. There 
 are ornaments for the hair made in bouquets 
 of flowers, representing daisies, geraniums 
 and foliage. The white leaves of the daisy 
 are set solidly in diamonds, and the center 
 of the flower is cut gold. The geraniums are 
 made of rubies, the green leaves of em- 
 eralds. Each flower is strung on a wire, and 
 the wires are gathered together to make a 
 bouquet. In glass show cases are prayer- 
 
 68 
 
RUSSIA AND AUSTRIA 
 
 book covers and jewel boxes made of solid 
 gold and ornamented with large solitaire 
 jewels. There is a set of harness, and saddle 
 covers, inlaid with gold and brilliantly 
 jeweled; and bridles with gold rosettes set 
 with solitaire diamonds. 
 
 The Winter Palace of the Czar is not far 
 from the Hermitage Gallery, and is a very 
 important building. It is painted a homely 
 brick red, a very popular color in Petrograd, 
 and used indiscriminately. The interior of 
 the palace is most interesting, because the 
 rulers have impressed upon its decoration 
 and furnishing their forceful personalities 
 and tastes, and because that expression has 
 taken the form of elegant, artistic simplic- 
 ity. In the white marble throne room is a 
 colonnade of white Italian marble pillars. 
 In the ball room are crystal chandeliers con- 
 
 69 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 taining twenty thousand candles, which are 
 lighted by means of an inflammable cord 
 running from wick to wick. After each 
 lighting a new cord has to be adjusted. 
 
 While passing through the ball room I 
 saw six Russian servant boys polishing the 
 floor. They stood in line and rather close 
 together. Woolen pads or mats were fas- 
 tened to the soles of their shoes. Each boy 
 at the same moment pushed his right foot 
 forward and then drew it back to line again, 
 and thus the immense space of that ball- 
 room floor was polished by that human ma- 
 chine. I never saw such tired looking serv- 
 ants. Their rooms are not far from the ball- 
 room, and are near the private apartments. 
 They are small and dark, and twenty-five 
 dollars would cover the cost of all the f urni- 
 
 70 
 
RUSSIA AND AUSTRIA 
 
 ture in them. That is always the other side 
 of the picture in Russia. 
 
 In a rectangular picture gallery hang 
 paintings of many Russian war heroes. At 
 one end of this gallery there is a magnificant 
 painting of Alexander I., seated upon a 
 prancing white charger. 
 
 The apartments of Alexander II. are un- 
 disturbed. The sixty copecks he had in his 
 pockets when he was killed lie upon his 
 library table with his pocket-knife and a 
 half smoked cigarette. His hair brush, yel- 
 low with age and costing not more than a 
 dollar, is there. Upon the table is a small 
 Christmas tree, about ten inches high, a gift 
 from the Czarina. It is made of silver, and 
 is hung with a few medallion portraits of the 
 members of the Czar's family. The family 
 photographs standing upon the book case 
 
 71 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 might be the old fashioned photos of any- 
 family. The state bed chambers are next to 
 the library, but they were not occupied by 
 the Czar. He slept on a small camp cot in 
 his library, because he was there more in- 
 accessible to bombs. The cot was placed in 
 a remote corner of the room, behind two 
 large marble pillars, which completely con- 
 cealed it. 
 
 The winter garden, under a glass roof, is 
 filled with a rare collection of tropical plants 
 and is most interesting. 
 
 One side of the palace fronts a street that 
 lies along the river Neva. It was formerly 
 the custom for the Czar to hold a public 
 reception on New Years Day, and at these 
 functions twenty thousand people were 
 sometimes received. On one of these occa- 
 sions, however, a bomb was thrown into the 
 
 72 
 
re 
 
 S_ 
 
 O) 
 
 o 
 
 s_ 
 ■•-> 
 0) 
 
 Q. 
 
 n5 
 
 re 
 
 c 
 o 
 
 re 
 
 Z 
 
RUSSIA AND AUSTRIA 
 
 midst of the crowd on the staircase about to 
 enter the palace, killing nearly one hundred 
 people. After that the receptions were dis- 
 continued and the Czar seldom occupies the 
 Winter Palace. 
 
 The National Art Gallery is architectur- 
 ally interesting. It is situated in a park 
 where the landscape gardening relieves the 
 severity of the building itself. The collec- 
 tion assembled here represents the art of all 
 countries, but the pictures that most im- 
 pressed me were those of the Russian artists. 
 They have great scope; and when I recall 
 them I think of the tall Russian people, their 
 great high buildings, the mighty Russian 
 Empire, the stretch of their agricultural 
 fields, the vast spaces of Siberia, the minor 
 strains of the Tschaikovsky music, the la- 
 ment of their folk songs. Their art has a 
 
 73 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 breadth and caliber proportionate to all 
 these things. There are here some of the 
 sea scenes which were on exhibition at the 
 Chicago World's Fair in 1893, and a collec- 
 tion of Munkacsy pictures, some of which 
 have been exhibited in America. 
 
 On the opposite side of the Neva from the 
 "Winter Palace is the Fortress Church, 
 where, in tombs characterized by refined 
 simplicity, are buried Catherine the Great, 
 Peter the Great, Alexander the I., Alex- 
 ander the II., and many others of the royal 
 family. The church is hung with silver 
 wreaths and has an atmosphere of elegant 
 restfulness. 
 
 The affection of the Russian people for 
 the memory of Peter the Great impresses 
 the tourist. When the guides or the people 
 speak of him they never say "Czar Peter 
 
 uL gXXy \J/Ji\,± X CICi 
 
RUSSIA AND AUSTRIA 
 
 or "Peter the Great"; they simply say 
 "Peter". 
 
 Petrograd was founded by Peter in 1712. 
 It was built on a low waste area, and en- 
 riched with many handsome structures. 
 Succeeding rulers, especially Catherine the 
 Great, continued his policy of augmenting 
 the importance of the city. Peter's first 
 house in Petrograd stands not far from the 
 Fortress Church of Peter and Paul. It is 
 constructed of timbers, has four rooms, and 
 was built in two weeks by his ministers, dur- 
 ing his absence from the city. The house is 
 now enclosed by walls. In the front room, 
 which was the library, are still to be seen the 
 tables and chairs that Peter used. The 
 kitchen was built separately, a little distance 
 from the house. Why the Czarina should 
 have done her own cooking is not quite clear ; 
 
 75 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 but the story goes that she went forth 
 through the snow to the kitchen in the 
 winter to prepare the meals, and back again 
 to the house to serve them. 
 
 At a later date Peter lived in a charming 
 little one-story palace at Peterhof . In the 
 kitchen of this palace there is some old blue 
 tiling and other evidences of his stay in Hol- 
 land, where he went to learn ship building. 
 
 The great scope of Peter's accomplish- 
 ments and the simple, humble manner in 
 which he lived form a striking contrast. 
 
 Peterhof is the summer palace of the 
 Czars. It is distant from Petrograd, I 
 should judge, about eighteen miles, or one 
 hour's ride. 
 
 On alighting at the station our guide hired 
 a carriage to take us to the palace. We 
 drove through the park, along lagoons whose 
 
 76 
 
RUSSIA AND AUSTRIA 
 
 banks are dotted with small fairy palaces. 
 The large palace, the summer residence of 
 the Czar, is near the seashore. Beautiful 
 views of the sea may be had from one side, 
 while from the opposite side may be seen a 
 terrace, upon which are magnificant tiers of 
 fountains. I counted eighty-one jets of 
 water from these fountains. 
 
 The interior of the palace represents the 
 finished, elegant simplicity that is character- 
 istic of French decoration. The rooms are 
 upholstered and decorated with the most 
 delicate satins. The reception room is in 
 white brocade; the salon in delicate blue 
 satin, and the dining room in red. The mer- 
 chant 's room is decorated in gorgeous, glit- 
 tering, heavy gold, and has a private en- 
 trance. It was used by Catherine the Great 
 to receive her merchant friends who brought 
 
 77 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 rich gifts to engage her favor. This glitter 
 of gold probably was pleasing to the mer- 
 chants, and as Catherine had a fondness for 
 valuable gifts, she arranged the decorations 
 to suit the merchants. The vain pompous- 
 ness of this room is most amusing in con- 
 trast to the elegant simplicity of the other 
 apartments. 
 
 In this palace there is a remarkable art 
 collection, founded by Catherine the Great, 
 composed of portraits of Russian peasant 
 girls in national costumes. Outside of this 
 gallery there are very few pictures on the 
 walls. The chandeliers in all the rooms are 
 of fine porcelain. 
 
 On leaving the palace we drove through 
 the park. It is expressly forbidden to take 
 photographs of the palace or grounds. The 
 present Czar lives in a palace near Peterhof . 
 
 78 
 
05 
 
 a. 
 
 0. 
 
 05 
 T5 
 < 
 
 C 
 3 
 O 
 U- 
 
 <u 
 
 s: 
 \- 
 
RUSSIA AND AUSTRIA 
 
 He does not go to the city often, through 
 fear, I suppose, of persons with evil intent. 
 Consequently, it is desirable to keep the plan 
 of these grounds as secret as possible. It is 
 said that when the Czar visits Petrograd he 
 often goes by sea in a motor boat ; for thus 
 it would be easy to discern if he were being 
 followed. 
 
 Peterhof and the palaces near it are very 
 closely guarded by Cossacks. There is a 
 saying that Cossacks around these palaces 
 are as thick as the trees. The fountains in 
 the park were so beautiful that I decided to 
 risk any penalty in order to get a picture of 
 them. We were I should think about a 
 quarter of a mile away from the palace. A 
 gendarme was on duty, pacing up and down 
 the terrace which commanded a view of our 
 carriage. I had my camera concealed under 
 
 79 
 
TEAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 my wraps. I instructed the cabman to stop 
 the carriage near the fountains, where I 
 would have the sun back of me. When the 
 gendarme turned his back toward us, I rose 
 quickly, snapped a picture, and as quickly 
 sat down to conceal the camera. It all had 
 to be done so rapidly that I did not know 
 whether I had the right position, and there 
 was no time to duplicate the picture. When 
 our carriage passed through the gate to leave 
 the grounds the same gendarme was on duty 
 there. He looked at me with anger. I think 
 he had made up his mind to watch people 
 more closely in the future, and I had made up 
 mine to never take such a chance again. 
 When I arrived home and had the pictures 
 developed, they were all very good. 
 
 We got back to Petrograd at seven o'clock 
 in the evening, and complained to the guide 
 
 80 
 
RUSSIA AND AUSTRIA 
 
 that thus far we had not found a good res- 
 taurant. He directed us to a French restau- 
 rant in a street that runs along the side of an 
 uninviting canal. We found the tables in 
 a pretty garden, laid out after the style of 
 the summer gardens and theaters in the 
 Champs Elysees. The head waiter, who now 
 approached us, was quite a French grandee 
 in style and manner. Doctor suddenly dis- 
 covered that owing to the extravagance of 
 our guide he had but little change left in his 
 pockets. He said to the head waiter, "Do 
 you cash American Express cheques here?" 
 The waiter did not hesitate a moment. With 
 level gaze and a very polite bow he replied, 
 "No, we do not; but Monsieur may dine to- 
 night and pay tomorrow. ' ' We accepted the 
 offer. The dinner was a dollar and a half 
 a plate without wine or mineral water. 
 
 81 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 The splendid repast finished, we tarried a 
 few minutes to enjoy the music and watch 
 the interesting crowd, composed of upper 
 class Russians and foreigners. We then ap- 
 proached the head waiter and asked him to 
 allow one of the small boys to go with us to 
 the hotel and bring back the money for the 
 dinners. Still imperturbably polite, he sug- 
 gested that we send it the next day. We, 
 however, hastened back to the hotel, got a 
 check cashed, and then Doctor returned to 
 the restaurant and paid the bill, while the 
 waiter protested that this was quite unneces- 
 sary. 
 
 The cabs and cab drivers of Petrograd are 
 strikingly interesting. The Russian cab, 
 called a drosky, is a light victoria, about 
 large enough to seat one person comfortably. 
 Consequently when two large Americans 
 
 82 
 
A Drosky Driver. 
 
RUSSIA AND AUSTRIA 
 
 occupy the same drosky they must hold on to 
 each other and to the cab in order to main- 
 tain their equilibrium. The drivers are 
 peasants from the interior. Their honest 
 faces have the clear color of vigorous health 
 and beam with good humor. Their blue uni- 
 forms, even in August, are padded with pil- 
 lows, to convey the idea that the employer is 
 prosperous and his driver fat and well cared 
 for. We would say the uniforms are stuffed ; 
 but I noticed the guide said they were 
 " stopped up" with pillows. The drivers 
 race along the street at a three-minute gait, 
 and their beautiful jet black Orloff horses 
 flecked with foam present a most exhilarat- 
 ing spectacle. Among the thousands of cabs 
 on the street, many going at top speed, I 
 never saw an accident. 
 
 I had great fun taking photographs of the 
 
 83 
 
TEAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 droskies and their drivers. I secured a posi- 
 tion in the rear of one broad-backed driver 
 and took careful aim, so as to be sure and 
 get all of his width into the picture. He had 
 not the slightest idea of what was going on, 
 but there was a line of droskies behind him, 
 and their drivers were doubled up with 
 laughter. I came upon another driver who 
 was sitting perfectly upright on his box, but 
 sound asleep. Just as I snapped the camera, 
 he woke up and began to rub his eyes. 
 
 We left Petrograd by a night train for 
 Moscow. The ride is rather comfortable, 
 and the train arrives at Moscow at a con- 
 venient hour in the morning. Luckily we 
 had a better hotel at Moscow than we did at 
 Petrograd, and did not have to look for a 
 restaurant for every meal. 
 
 The first thing we did was to try and find 
 
 84 
 
RUSSIA AND AUSTRIA 
 
 a guide. The hotel porter said it would be very 
 difficult to get one, because there was a large 
 tourist party in the city, and because many 
 private parties visit Moscow at this time of 
 the year, and all the guides are engaged. He 
 had many indefinite excuses. We afterward 
 learned that this particular porter paid the 
 hotel one hundred and fifty dollars per 
 month to hold his position and that the posi- 
 tion is worth fifteen thousand dollars a year 
 in tips. We got a very good guide from an- 
 other hotel. 
 
 The guide first took us to the Kremlin, 
 which is the citadel or fortress in the center 
 of modern Moscow. It is two miles around 
 the walls, which are from thirty to fifty feet 
 high. They are surmounted by nine artistic 
 towers, and the entrances are through five 
 gates remarkable for their beauty. Within 
 
 85 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 the Kremlin are churches, monasteries, law 
 courts and a palace which the Czar occupies 
 when visiting Moscow. Peter the Great 
 moved the capital of Russia from Moscow to 
 St. Petersburg, now Petrograd, in 1712. 
 
 As we were about to pass through a gate 
 into the Kremlin I noticed a shrine in the 
 wall fronting the street. The shrine con- 
 tained various holy pictures, and was filled 
 with a crowd of travel-stained, distressed 
 looking pilgrims, who had come from a great 
 distance to worship there. They were kiss- 
 ing the feet of the ikon and prostrating 
 themselves on the floor of the shrine in com- 
 plete subjection and humiliation. Many of 
 them had sat on the steps all night, waiting 
 for the doors of the shrine to open. They 
 looked very poor and as if they were craving 
 spiritual comfort. 
 
 86 
 
RUSSIA AND AUSTRIA 
 
 Inside the Kremlin we first visited the 
 church of the Assumption where the Czars 
 are crowned. They are baptized in the 
 church of the Ascension, and up to the time 
 of Peter the Great they were buried in the 
 church of St. Michael, the archangel. 
 
 The principal decorations in all of these 
 churches are ikons made of gilded silver and 
 heavily ornamented with jewels. It hap- 
 pened to be the Feast Day of St. Mary of 
 Magdalen, and we hastened to the church of 
 St. Sauveur to be present at the full service. 
 This church was built to commemorate the 
 expulsion of the French from Moscow, and 
 the service here on high feast days is most 
 impressive. It began shortly after ten 
 o'clock, and was conducted by three priests 
 in heavy gold robes. One of them chanted in 
 a deep, resonant voice from the altar, and 
 
 87 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 was answered by a remarkable choir, sta- 
 tioned in stalls on either side of the altar. 
 The choir boys wore handsome uniforms of 
 black, with red vests and sleeves and white 
 surplices edged with gold. 
 
 Presently the choir left its place by the 
 altar and marched among the standing con- 
 gregation to the center of the church. Then 
 began the anthem part of the service. With 
 clear tones the sopranos rang out, followed 
 by the boy tenors with flute-like voices and 
 the contraltos in tones of a mellow cello; 
 then came the deep bass voices of the men. 
 This unison rose and fell in pure harmony, 
 like the waves of a sustained sound of a 
 great organ, producing the most beautiful 
 melodies that echoed through the vaulted 
 nave, and creating in the participant of the 
 service an impressive emotion of spiritual- 
 
 88 
 
RUSSIA AND AUSTRIA 
 
 ity. The choir of St. Sauveur is well worth 
 going to Europe to hear, even if one had to 
 return by the first boat. 
 
 After the service we walked to the Church 
 of the Assumption in the Kremlin. In front 
 of the church was a line of stacked guns. 
 Many soldiers and all the people coming out 
 of the church were running to the Kremlin 
 walls, which overlook the river. We asked 
 the guide the cause. He replied that a cele- 
 bration in honor of the Feast Day had been 
 arranged to take place immediately after 
 the service. The celebration began by the 
 firing of eight cannons, mounted in a tower, 
 which faced the river. One hundred and one 
 guns were fired in rapid succession. The 
 large bell weighing forty-four thousand 
 tons, and thirty-three smaller ones were 
 ringing at the same time. With the boom- 
 
 89 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 ing of the guns, together with the jingle and 
 clanging of the bells, one could fairly see the 
 French retreating in the war of 1812. 
 
 The old palace was burned in 1812, along 
 with many other public and private build- 
 ings. We visited the new palace in the aft- 
 ernoon. It contains many souvenirs of Na- 
 poleon, and is quite modern. 
 
 The architecture of the monastery, also 
 inside the Kremlin, was attractively Rus- 
 sian. Ranged along the base of the arsenal 
 buildings are four hundred cannons taken 
 from Napoleon. In the middle of the open 
 space between the arsenal and the law courts 
 is a cross marking the exact spot where 
 Grand Duke Sergius was assassinated, in 
 1905. 
 
 One of the most important things outside 
 the Kremlin walls is the Church of St. Basil, 
 
 90 
 
The Church of St. Basil, Moscow. 
 
RUSSIA AND AUSTRIA 
 
 built in 1554, on the Place Rouge, by Ivan 
 the IV., to commemorate the victory of Ka- 
 zan. It is of the gorgeous Russian style of 
 architecture, and kaleidoscopic in coloring. 
 There is a legend to the effect that Ivan the 
 IV. was so pleased with this church that he 
 had the eyes of the Italian architect who 
 built it put out, so it could not be duplicated. 
 Its wonderful domes surmount a series of 
 towers. The chapels in the towers are con- 
 nected by dark and narrow passageways. In 
 order to get a picture of the church I had to 
 struggle up a sandy embankment twenty- 
 five or thirty feet high. Sand and stones 
 slipped from under my feet. On reaching 
 the summit I found myself above the top of 
 a small tree which shows in the picture ; then 
 by hanging on to the branches of another 
 
 91 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 tree I sustained myself while photographing 
 the church. 
 
 . Opposite the Church of St. Basil, on the 
 Place Rouge, is a modern department store 
 containing one thousand shops. In exca- 
 vating for the building the workmen took 
 out two hundred wagon loads of bones. On 
 the other side of the Place Rouge is a gov- 
 ernment building, of that same awful red as 
 the palace in Petrograd. 
 
 Catherine the Great founded a university 
 in Moscow. There is an orphan asylum 
 which receives twelve thousand children a 
 year. 
 
 One morning we went shopping in the 
 modern part of Moscow, for the necessities 
 we had left behind us in various hotels — 
 here a razor strap, there a pair of rubbers, 
 then an umbrella, until our path through 
 
 92 
 
RUSSIA AND AUSTRIA 
 
 Europe could have been traced by the things 
 we left behind. 
 
 Near our hotel was a clean, modern busi- 
 ness street, with a fine commission fruit 
 market on one side and shops on the other. 
 And right out in the middle of the street was 
 a pretty little white church, with gold domes 
 and steeple, the church of Friday Prosko- 
 vie, named after a saint. 
 
 One afternoon when walking by this 
 church I saw a handsomely ornamented 
 coach with four beautiful white horses 
 standing there. The coach was lined with 
 white satin. There were two footmen on 
 the box in tan livery. It was very warm, and 
 the equipage was drawn up into a niche of 
 the road where it was in complete shade. I 
 told the guide to offer the coachman money 
 and ask him to swing the team and coach 
 
 93 
 
TEAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 into the sunshine, where I could photograph 
 them. The guide said that he would not 
 dare to offer him money or attempt to inter- 
 fere with his plans, for the daughter of the 
 curate was being married inside the church 
 while a gold crown was being held over her 
 head. He further said that the magnificent 
 equipage was not private, but had been hired 
 from a neighboring stable. An impulse came 
 to me to seize the bridle and lead the horses 
 out into the sun, where I could photograph 
 them ; but as the infringement of law or cus- 
 tom is severely punished in Russia, I decid- 
 ed to take no chances. 
 
 One afternoon about four thirty we took a 
 rambling street car for Sparrow Hills, to 
 see the sun set on Moscow. The ride through 
 the suburbs was full of interest. Arriving 
 at the end of the line, we left the car for 
 
 94 
 
EUSSIA AND AUSTRIA 
 
 quite a walk to the summit of the hill. I was 
 walking in the middle of the sandy road. 
 Suddenly around a turn in the road there 
 appeared a Cossack, mounted on a splendid 
 black horse. He wore a long royal blue coat 
 and a typical turban of black and red. I 
 was right in position, with the sun back of 
 me, to get a good picture. I raised my cam- 
 era, and then it occurred to me that it is 
 against the law in Russia to photograph the 
 military. My camera dropped to my side, 
 and the single horseman passed nonchal- 
 antly by. 
 
 At the summit of the hill there is a cafe, 
 in which a company of peasants were sing- 
 ing folk-songs. These songs generally ended 
 in a lamenting minor note. I think there 
 are many unsolved problems in the hearts 
 of the Russian peasants. 
 
 95 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 Down the side of the hill the grass was 
 velvet green, and it spread across the plain 
 in front of us to the walls of the Novo-Die- 
 vitchie Convent with its many artistic spires. 
 Beyond the convent lay Moscow, with an 
 appearance of close-knit white stucco along 
 its base line, while along the sky line hun- 
 dreds of golden domes glittered in the set- 
 ting sun. As the rays of the sun became 
 weaker, the myriads of dazzling scintilla- 
 tions resolved themselves into single flashes 
 of light that could be counted. These also 
 died out and Moscow was enveloped in an at- 
 mosphere of spiritual silence. It was from 
 Sparrow Hills Napoleon first viewed Mos- 
 cow. At that time there were one thousand 
 churches in the city ; now there are approxi- 
 mately five hundred, each one surmounted 
 by two to seven domes. 
 
 96 
 
RUSSIA AND AUSTRIA 
 
 Our guide said that the Czar of Russia is 
 the richest man in the world; that he owns 
 all of Siberia, which is rich in gold, silver 
 and minerals; that Czar Peter the Great 
 placed a sum of money in the government 
 bank for the last Czar and this has been 
 constantly increasing. The Czar is also head 
 of the Church, which gives him an immense 
 political influence. 
 
 When a street car in Petrograd passes a 
 church every Russian in the car immediately 
 blesses himself. A uniformed soldier rid- 
 ing in a cab about to pass a church will os- 
 tentatiously make the sign of the cross. 
 There are religious shrines in the railroad 
 offices on the Nevsky Prospect, the Broad- 
 way of Petrograd, and in all the railway 
 stations. 
 
 97 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 When one compares the royal collection 
 of personal jewelry in the Hermitage, rep- 
 resenting a prodigious sum, with the condi- 
 tions among the poorer classes of people, the 
 contrast is too great. There is a room in a 
 palace on the Nevsky Prospect which is lined 
 with lapis lazuli at a cost of one dollar an 
 ounce ; and there is a seventy-five carat dia- 
 mond in the frame of a holy picture in one 
 of the churches. Yet in some communities 
 the peasants are so poor that several fam- 
 ilies use the same dining-room because no 
 one family can afford a dining table. The 
 peasants gather around the table in the mid- 
 dle of which is placed a bowl of soup ; each 
 person has a large piece of bread which is 
 dipped into the soup again and again until 
 the meal is finished. 
 
 There are in the suburbs of Petrograd 
 
 98 
 
RUSSIA AND AUSTRIA 
 
 several palaces which the Czar has presented 
 to retired government officials. These pal- 
 aces are provided with military guards, to 
 protect the occupants from assassination. 
 
 The chief of police of Petrograd gets fifty 
 thousand dollars a year ; a laborer gets fifty 
 cents a day. I have sat on park benches in 
 Petrograd, among the poor people, and have 
 seen them shiver and shrink back, and their 
 faces blanch with fear, when a soldier sim- 
 ply passed on his way through the park. 
 
 One can better appreciate Tolstoi's influ- 
 ence in Russia after having visited there. 
 By birth he was an aristocrat; but he vol- 
 untarily left that class to go and live among 
 the poor and to share their fate. Some of 
 his brother writers, while still in the prime 
 of life, disappeared in the mysterious Rus- 
 sian way; but Tolstoi, in spite of his writ- 
 
 99 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 ings, remained unharmed, because the gov- 
 ernment would have had to reckon with the 
 intellectual world outside of Russia had any- 
 thing happened to him. Tolstoi has been 
 called the "Russian John the Baptist", 
 preaching in the wilderness ; and it has been 
 said that had he been sent to Siberia every 
 peasant in Russia would have followed him. 
 
 Cholera is said to be prevalent in Petro- 
 grad in the summer time. The streets are 
 sprinkled with a disinfectant, the odor of 
 which is so nauseating that the upper classes 
 desert the city at this season. 
 
 The black eyed, tall-statured Russian with 
 
 high pompadour and black beard that one 
 
 reads of in novels is the exception in Petro- 
 
 grad. Most of the inhabitants have light 
 
 hair and fair skin, like the Scandinavians. 
 
 Russians of the upper class are highly cul- 
 
 100 
 
RUSSIA AND AUSTRIA 
 
 tivated, and speak easily several languages. 
 The middle class and the peasants are, as a 
 rule, of fine strong stature with a vigorous 
 walk, and have open, honest faces. The peo- 
 ple are not educated to self-government; if 
 they were, and if Russia were a republic, 
 it would be one of the finest countries in the 
 world. 
 
 And now we leave the fascinating domes 
 of Russia to journey in Austria. It was im- 
 possible to secure accommodations by way 
 of Warsaw, so we took a straight route to 
 Vienna. This was the worst journey that I 
 ever made. I think we were two days and 
 three nights on the road. The thermometer 
 registered one hundred degrees Fahrenheit, 
 and all the car windows were kept closed to 
 keep out the clouds of sand. The guard dust- 
 ed the compartment several times a day, but 
 
 101 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 in the morning I would lean out of my 
 berth and fish my shoes out of a mound of 
 dirt. From the train we saw great fields of 
 waving grain which was being harvested by 
 men, women and children with sickles and 
 scythes. The peasant huts are small and di- 
 lapidated, with thatched roofs and a single 
 stove pipe. 
 
 In the dining car the one palatable dish 
 was cabbage soup. There was no drinking 
 water on the train, so at a way station we en- 
 tered a lunch room to buy some bottled 
 water. Upon the counter was a large col- 
 lection of what looked like bottles of min- 
 eral water in our own country. We pur- 
 chased one for a dollar, and thought now we 
 would have some fresh drinking water for 
 our parched throats. When we returned to 
 our compartment and expectantly opened 
 
 102 
 
RUSSIA AND AUSTRIA 
 
 the bottle, we found — not drinking water at 
 all, but vodka, the Russian whisky! We 
 carefully conserved it till the end of the trip, 
 and then presented it to the train guard, who 
 thanked us profusely. 
 
 When we reached Vienna, it took us a 
 whole day to make ourselves presentable. 
 Our clothes could not be made clean, and 
 we had to throw them away. 
 
 In Vienna one afternoon, as I approached 
 St. Stephen's Church, I noticed a crowd as- 
 sembling. I inquired the reason, and was 
 told that they were coming to assist at the 
 funeral of the Archbishop of Vienna, which 
 would occur at three o'clock. Carriages of 
 dignitaries were now passing through the 
 square to the church. The uniformed coach- 
 men wore empire hats with cockade orna- 
 
 103 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 ments. The square was guarded by the po- 
 lice, who demonstrated an excellent system 
 of firm but gentle control of the crowds. All 
 sorts of uniforms were to be seen ; the Hus- 
 sars were resplendent in red trousers, high 
 top boots, and green plumes. A Field Mar- 
 shal wore a Copenhagen blue jacket with 
 black trousers having red stripes on the side. 
 
 Delegations from women's, children's, 
 men's and nuns' societies, with banners fly- 
 ing, arrived from time to time, and were 
 marshalled to waiting positions in the 
 square. A regiment of Hussars seemed to 
 have the post of honor, near the church door. 
 The cardinals in full regalia repaired to the 
 archbishop's palace, opposite the church. 
 
 Almost immediately the procession 
 formed. The cardinals, enveloped in long 
 embroidered red capes and mitred hats, led 
 
 104 
 
V 
 
 c 
 
 3 
 
 Ll 
 
 "a. 
 o 
 
 - 
 
 Si 
 
 -C 
 
 o 
 
 s_ 
 < 
 
 < 
 
RUSSIA AND AUSTRIA 
 
 the way as a guard of honor. Behind them 
 the coffin was carried aloft by bearers. It 
 was covered by two purple cloths of differ- 
 ent shades, and a huge but simple wreath of 
 green with flowers rising mound-like from 
 its center. 
 
 The procession now circled the church, 
 picking up in its course the societies from 
 their various positions. First came the Jes- 
 uits, then the Franciscans, and then the Do- 
 minicans. There were twelve hundred 
 priests in line, in white cassocks, and follow- 
 ing them came the secular societies. 
 
 On the left is the Gothic tower of St. Ste- 
 phens, on the right are quaint, antique ga- 
 bled buildings. Into the passageway be- 
 tween them wound the procession, the after- 
 noon sun illuminating a spectacle that might 
 have occurred in the fourteenth century. 
 
 105 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 The cortege had for a background the mili- 
 tary and the ambassadorial carriages, filled 
 with all the dignitaries that represent the 
 cog wheels of a brilliant monarchial firma- 
 ment. 
 
 With slow steps the procession advanced, 
 to the music of a sombre military dirge. The 
 bells in St. Stephen's tower ring, toll, strike, 
 strike, toll and ring until the last follower 
 of the coffin disappeared within the black 
 draped portals of the church. 
 
 When I first arrived at the square I stood 
 in front of two laboring men. They were 
 short, and I almost obscured their view. 
 When a carriage containing some dignitary 
 appeared they would eagerly inspect him. 
 They would then look at each other with 
 beaming eyes and say, "Yis, that is his ex- 
 cellency on the right." Then they would 
 
 106 
 
RUSSIA AND AUSTRIA 
 
 touch their hats. When a priest appeared 
 they would say, "That is his riverence so 
 and so," and violently cross themselves. 
 
 Several times I advanced into the square 
 to take a picture, but the guard always mo- 
 tioned me back. Finally I was standing in 
 front of a jewelry shop, rather discouraged, 
 when the proprietor stepped out and in a 
 most courteous way offered me a window in 
 his second story for a view point. Through 
 his kindness I was able to get several pic- 
 tures. 
 
 The Rathhaus in Vienna is of Gothic ar- 
 chitecture, and is built around one large 
 court and six smaller ones. There is a large 
 fest hall, with a magnificent marble stair- 
 case. The ceiling of the Council Chamber 
 is of gold, and the sides of beautiful paneled 
 wood. The frescoes represent historical and 
 
 107 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 allegorical scenes. Other rooms contain 
 beautiful Gothic furniture. From an upper 
 balcony in front of the Rathhaus there is an 
 inspiring view of Vienna, which for grand- 
 eur, elegance and dignity of architecture is 
 not surpassed among the vistas of European 
 cities. 
 
 A fine bronze monument of Maria Theresa 
 adorns the park in front of the art gallery 
 of Vienna. The excellent and wonderfully 
 interesting collection of art in this gallery 
 is taken full advantage of by a large student 
 body. I selected and purchased about sixty 
 photographs of the pictures that most im- 
 pressed me. 
 
 In another quarter of the city is the gal- 
 lery of Count Lichtenstein. The guide-book 
 says that the portrait of Marie Luise von 
 
 108 
 
4> 
 
 O 
 
 < 
 
 .E 
 I- 
 
RUSSIA AND AUSTRIA 
 
 Tassis, in this gallery, is one of the finest 
 pieces of art of the seventeenth century. I 
 think it is one of the finest belonging to any 
 century. 
 
 In the Vienna shops are photos of Franz 
 Joseph in many costumes and poses. The 
 one I liked best was a sepia portrait on a 
 postal card, showing the Emperor in Alpine 
 costume, with an Alpine feather in his hat. 
 When the shop keepers hand out photos of 
 Franz Ferdinand and the Archduke Fran- 
 ces, you get the history of the whole royal 
 family. 
 
 In Vienna we fell in with some friends 
 from home. Each day we took our meals 
 with them in a different cafe. This seems to 
 me to be the custom here. I saw ladies tak- 
 ing breakfast alone, and was told it is quite 
 customary for a wife to patronize a cafe 
 
 109 
 
TEAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 which she liked, while her husband would go 
 to a different one. 
 
 After returning home, I met a gentleman 
 who had married a Viennese girl and 
 brought her to his home city in America. 
 He said she missed the cafe life in Vienna 
 very much, and he was having great diffi- 
 culty in finding enough cafes in his town to 
 take her to. 
 
 Early one morning we drove a considera- 
 ble distance from Vienna to a wharf on the 
 Danube, to take a boat for Budapest. The 
 boat was an average river steamer, with the 
 decks protected by flapping canvas. In a 
 cold drizzling rain, which continued all day, 
 we sat on the wet decks in company with an 
 interesting English couple, whose adapta- 
 bility and social charm relieved the situa- 
 
 110 
 
RUSSIA AND AUSTRIA 
 
 tion from boredom and discomfort. It was 
 still raining when we disembarked at Buda- 
 pest about six o'clock in the evening. 
 
 Budapest is really two cities. Buda is sit- 
 uated on one side of the Danube, and Pest on 
 the other. The majestic river sweeps along 
 under a series of fine suspension bridges 
 connecting the two cities. Rising from the 
 terraced banks on one side are the Palace 
 and several magnificent government build- 
 ings. On the opposite side are the beautiful 
 Parliament House, the market on the wharf, 
 and the hotels. Budapest is one of the most 
 picturesque cities in the world, especially at 
 night, when the lights are in the buildings 
 and on the terraces. 
 
 The Gothic Parliament House in Buda- 
 pest is a delight to an art lover. Near it I 
 
 saw a gypsy woman wearing at least sixteen 
 
 111 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 petticoats of different colors. As she walked 
 their voluminous folds swung about from 
 their own weight and revealed all sorts of 
 brilliant colorings. She had a happy, laugh- 
 ing face, and was barefoot. Her male com- 
 panion was dressed principally in a goat 
 skin, and a violin was swung across his back. 
 Somehow the gypsies did not seem to pro- 
 vide the proper social atmosphere for the 
 Gothic Parliament House, whose beautiful 
 dome is visible at the head of so many streets 
 that radiate from it like the spokes of a 
 wheel. 
 
 I understand that Budapest is quite ad- 
 vanced in problems of health and sanitation ; 
 but the streets were certainly very dirty 
 when we were there. 
 
 The next morning we went shopping. We 
 wished to buy a Hungarian flag. A mer- 
 
 112 
 
RUSSIA AND AUSTRIA 
 
 chant referred us to a man who made them 
 to order. We entered a small, dark, room 
 off an alley, near the central business por- 
 tion of the city. The man said yes, he would 
 make us a flag. He also said he was just 
 preparing to depart for America. "Here I 
 am able to make only a few gulden a week," 
 he said, "and if I buy something to eat I 
 have nothing left for clothes," and vice 
 versa. We returned in an hour to get the 
 flag. It was made of strips of cheap satin 
 ribbon, coarsely sewn together by a machine, 
 which was the only piece of furniture in the 
 workroom. 
 
 We returned to Vienna by train, the trip 
 occupying five hours. The next day at noon 
 we left Vienna by train for Linz, Austria, a 
 picturesque little town situated on the Dan- 
 ube. It was dark when we arrived, but there 
 
 113 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 was a great glow of light on the opposite 
 bank of the river. I learned upon inquiry 
 that it was a folk-fest. 
 
 Dinner at the hotel was served in a gar- 
 den on the river bank, and the light from 
 the opposite shore streamed right up to our 
 table. We thought all we had to do was to 
 walk across the bridge and we would be 
 right at the fair, but it proved to be nearly 
 two miles. The main street of the fair was 
 lined with cafes, crowded with country peo- 
 ple, drinking beer. In every cafe was an 
 excellent band. 
 
 We visited a Tyrolean hunting booth. The 
 guns were very old. The sight was obtained 
 by looking through a pin-hole in a central 
 disc. Further down the barrel a pointer was 
 placed, not in the middle, but on one side. A 
 series of painted scenes, apparently inani- 
 
 114 
 
RUSSIA AND AUSTRIA 
 
 mate, were hung along the back wall of the 
 booth. A white card with a red bull's-eye 
 in the center was attached to each scene. 
 When the bull's-eye was hit the scene be- 
 came animated, revealing a man spanking 
 his wife, while their child rent the air with 
 screams. In another scene a boy in a tree 
 stealing apples was pulled down by the irate 
 owner, and so on. 
 
 At another booth a fairy at a window 
 beckoned us in. Once inside we began a tor- 
 tuous walk through dark corridors; some- 
 times over revolving plates, then over soft 
 bags, then on rickety slats, until finally a 
 canvas stretched over revolving rollers eject- 
 ed us through the welcome ausgang (exit). 
 
 The next morning was Sunday, also a f est 
 day. Crowds swarmed up and down Franz 
 Joseph Platz, visiting the market on the 
 
 115 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 way to church. Many handsome Tyrolean 
 costumes Were to be seen. 
 
 The church at Linz is a model of St. Ste- 
 phen's in Vienna. Linz also has a handsome 
 museum. The town is immaculately clean 
 and very pleasing. 
 
 We left Linz by train early in the morn- 
 ing for Saltsburg, by way of the Kammersee 
 and Mondsee. About noon we arrived at 
 Kammer, situated at the head of the Kam- 
 mersee. At the hotel we had lunch in a gar- 
 den near the lake, where there are beautiful 
 views of mountain peaks. At three o'clock 
 in the afternoon we took a boat to journey to 
 Unteracht, at the other end of the lake. The 
 trip was most delightful. 
 
 The Kammersee, or Attersee, is one of the 
 largest lakes in the Tyrol. Its waters are a 
 fascinating sea green. The steamer travels 
 
 116 
 
RUSSIA AND AUSTRIA 
 
 along one shore for a time, and then strikes 
 directly across the lake and pokes its nose 
 into the harbor of some little town which, 
 on account of the lake mists, cannot be seen 
 from a distance. At all these points native 
 Tyroleans board the boat. Among the ladies 
 low-necked costumes prevailed, and half 
 socks among the men. And although the 
 day Was a bit chilly, I did not see one of them 
 shiver. 
 
 The mountains rise directly from the wat- 
 er's edge, and are clothed with pine tree 
 verdure and dotted with Swiss chalets. The 
 Sharpsberg and its companion peaks are 
 visible; at first clouded with mist, but on 
 nearer approach becoming clearer and more 
 forcibly outlined. 
 
 In Weisenbach numerous hospitable look- 
 ing chalets are to be seen near the docks. 
 
 117 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 From Weisenbach the boat proceeds straight 
 across to the town of Unteracht, which is 
 situated in the valley that leads to the town 
 of See. We disembarked and took an elec- 
 tric car for the latter place, a quarter of an 
 hour's ride. At See we boarded one of the 
 little steamers plying on Mondsee. After a 
 short ride on this lake, which also is sea- 
 green and has mountain-rocked shores, we 
 alighted at Plomberg and took the narrow- 
 gauge railway for Saltsburg. 
 
 We arrived at Saltsburg (elevation 1,350 
 feet) at eight o'clock in the evening. In 
 passing through the lobby of the hotel I no- 
 ticed that it is modern. At the rose shaded 
 tables in the dining room every one was in 
 faultless evening dress. 
 
 Our first real view of Saltsburg was from 
 the window of our room. Lights appeared 
 
 118 
 
RUSSIA AND AUSTRIA 
 
 at irregular intervals on the mountain side 
 and in the valley. Deep-toned bells rang out 
 from many church towers, proclaiming this 
 community to be a church-going one ; and as 
 no sounds of business life came from the val- 
 ley, we were reminded that this was the 
 same holiday which we had begun at Linz. 
 The next morning we visited the house 
 where Mozart lived, the Mozart Museum and 
 the Cathedral. We then took the cable rail- 
 way to the fortress on Hohen Saltsburg, 
 which was built in the eleventh century. In 
 feudal times, w;hen a town expected an at- 
 tack from an enemy, it was customary for 
 the citizens to take refuge in some impreg- 
 nable fortress like Hohen Saltsburg, where, 
 with plenty of supplies to ward off starva- 
 tion, safety could be secured quite indefinite- 
 ly. In case of siege about twelve hundred 
 
 119 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 people could be taken care of in Hohen 
 Saltsburg. 
 
 From the fortress there are fine views 
 of several valleys. I was ready to take a 
 snap shot of one when the guide sharply 
 notified me it was against the law to take pic- 
 tures there. The other members of the par- 
 ty promptly put up their cameras. After 
 they had all docilely followed the guide to 
 the opposite side of the tower to hear his 
 lecture, I took two very good pictures. 
 
 Inside the fortress there are several dec- 
 orated rooms which w;ere used by a prince. 
 
 Among the furnishings are a majolica stove 
 
 from the fifteenth century, and an organ 
 
 made in the eleventh century for Archbishop 
 
 Leonard. The organ is played every day at 
 
 11 a. m. following the playing of the chimes 
 
 in Saltsburg Cathedral. 
 
 120 
 
RUSSIA AND AUSTRIA 
 
 We came down the cable railway to St. 
 Peter's Church and Cemetery, situated at 
 the base of the mountain on the outskirts of 
 Saltsburg. The cemetery is quaint with 
 bronze crucifixes at every grave; it has as 
 much individuality as the Campo Santo. 
 
 It was eleven o'clock and the chimes of 
 Saltsburg Cathedral rang out. When they 
 ceased, the Archbishop's organ pealed back 
 from the fortress five hundred feet higher 
 up. The melody of a church hymn floated 
 through the castle window to greater heights 
 and then in full harmonious volume down to 
 the cemetery, where travelers stood with en- 
 raptured, upturned faces. The dead here 
 must be at peace, and there is also peace here 
 for the living, weary and bruised in worldly 
 
 strife. The Tyroleans standing about said, 
 
 121 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 "It is the Archbishop's organ," and re- 
 moved their hats until the music ceased. 
 
 In the afternoon we drove to Berchtes- 
 gaden. This town is built along a road which 
 winds up the mountain side, and consequent- 
 ly presents a very picturesque appearance. 
 We continued our drive to Konigs See, one 
 of the most beautiful lakes in the world, and 
 returned to Saltsburg by way of Bad Reich- 
 enhall, a placid little bathing-place, where a 
 few: smart rigs were the sole attraction on 
 the street. 
 
 We left Saltsburg early the next morning 
 for Innsbruck, by way of Zell am See. This 
 is one of the prettiest railway trips in Eu- 
 rope. The route crosses mountain torrents 
 and passes along the borders of placid lakes 
 
 and through beautiful valleys, from which 
 
 122 
 
BUSSIA AND AUSTRIA 
 
 the ruins of feudal castles on the mountain 
 sides may be seen. 
 
 The architecture of the chalets here be- 
 comes more typical of the Tyrol. With the 
 idea of securing plans for a summer home, I 
 sat at the car window and industriously 
 sketched designs of chalets as we passed. 
 Some had wood ornamentation on cement 
 walls ; others had fancy iron railings on the 
 roofs; still others carved balconies, gables 
 and porches. On the back of my designs, 
 long since lost, Doctor drew leering, comic 
 figures. 
 
 Innsbruck, the capital of the Tyrol, is a 
 city of about forty-five thousand inhabitants 
 and is unusually interesting as to both scen- 
 ery and history. It is situated in a basin, 
 around which mountains, with sharp, snow- 
 
 123 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 covered peaks close in on every side. The 
 principal street is the broad parked Maria 
 Theresien Strasse, lined on both sides with 
 shops, hotels and other buildings, with a 
 handsome monument in the center. Some 
 of the buildings date from the seventeenth 
 and eighteenth centuries. Herzog Fried- 
 rich Strasse leads out from Maria Theresien 
 Strasse to the north and is lined with bazaar 
 shops. Pacing its terminus is a palace en- 
 riched with a magnificent Gothic balcony, 
 decorated with a combination of gold and 
 mosaic. The story goes that Count Fried- 
 rich of Tyrol was such a spendthrift that 
 he was known as the Count of the Empty 
 Pockets. In order to counterbalance the ef- 
 fect of this appellation he caused the palace 
 with das goldene dachl (the golden balcony) 
 to be built at a cost of approximately seventy 
 
 124 
 
RUSSIA AND AUSTRIA 
 
 thousand dollars. The balcony is really a 
 fine work of art, and is visited by many ap- 
 preciative tourists. 
 
 We next visited the Franciscan Church, 
 which was built in compliance with the will 
 of Emperor Maxillian I., in order to receive 
 his monument. He is not buried here, how- 
 ever, but at Wiener Neustadt. Andraes 
 Hofer, the brave defender of Innsbruck, 
 and some of his comrades, are buried in 
 this church. 
 
 The Emperor's monument in the church 
 is of white marble; upon the sides are re- 
 liefs of fine carvings, done by the master 
 minds of that era and representing events in 
 the life of the Emperor. Surrounding it is a 
 collection of bronze figures, the finest replica 
 among them being that of King Arthur. 
 
 In the evening we dined at the Stadtsalle 
 
 125 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 restaurant, where a Tyrolean troupe in 
 charming costumes gave an entertainment of 
 songs and dances. One of the numbers was 
 called a platter dance. I recollect hearing 
 the people say the dancers wlere coming to 
 "platter" that evening. This dance con- 
 sisted in patting the floor with wooden-soled 
 shoes in double rhythm, and it ended with the 
 couple doing a whirl so prolonged that it 
 seemed as if they must certainly collapse 
 with vertigo; but instead they brought up 
 short in perfect equilibrium, and with calm, 
 smiling faces. 
 
 At the south end of Maria Theresien 
 Strasse is a handsome triumphal arch. Prom 
 here a road leading into the country passes 
 an artistic church and continues up Berg 
 Isel, the hill upon which the brave Andraes 
 
 126 
 
EUSSIA AND AUSTRIA 
 
 Hofer and his comrades defended Inns- 
 bruck from the French. 
 
 On another suburban trip we drove to 
 Miihlau, a settlement with pert little mills 
 run by electricity Then one day we took 
 a street car which connects with the incline 
 railway to the Weiherburg. As the car rolled 
 along I saw a woman washing windows from 
 the outside of her house. She was armed 
 with a dipper and a large pail of water, and 
 her head was protected by a dusting cap. 
 She would fill the dipper, then with a back- 
 ward sweep of her arm pitch the water 
 against the window with great force, and 
 then dodge back to the edge of the sidewalk. 
 Evidently she was doing good work, for the 
 entire front of the house was so dripping 
 wet, it looked as though the fire department 
 had turned the hose on it. The sidewalk was 
 
 127 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 a miniature lake, but the windows seemed 
 quite dry. 
 
 From the Weiherburg there is a wonder- 
 ful panoramic view of Innsbruck with its 
 suburbs and the Valley of the Inn River. 
 Along the edge of the mountain there is a 
 row of chalets that look as if any fair wind 
 would blow them into the valley. The one I 
 definitely selected as a model for my sum- 
 mer home had a first story of white cement. 
 The second story was of gorgeous red 
 stained wood. A carved wood balcony, 
 fringed with gay red geraniums, encircled 
 the entire house on a level with the second 
 story floor. On one side of the house near 
 the front, was painted a large oval copy of 
 the Dresden Madonna. 
 
 From Innsbruck we continued our trip 
 to Munich along the Bavarian lakes. From 
 
 128 
 
RUSSIA AND AUSTRIA 
 
 Munich we took a through train to Paris. 
 As this was at the time of the Moroccoan 
 crisis, we saw troops of German infantry 
 moving towards the French frontier, and, 
 after we crossed the line, French cavalry 
 moving towards the German frontier. Our 
 train consisted of eleven coaches, nine of 
 which were filled with soldiers. The railroad 
 station in Paris swarmed with troops wear- 
 ing plumed helmets and clanking swords. 
 
 129 
 
CHAPTER III. 
 
 Belgium and Holland. 
 
 One of the most popular continental routes 
 into Holland is from Paris through Belgium 
 by way of Brussels. The Brussels Express, 
 which is called the Rapide, leaves the Gare 
 du Nord, Paris, and reaches its destination 
 in from five to six hours. On reaching Brus- 
 sels we at once change cars for Ostend. 
 
 Ostend is the fashionable sea coast resort 
 of Belgium. When King Leopold was alive 
 he maintained a summer residence here, and 
 fashionable people flocked to the resort in 
 
 130 
 
BELGIUM AND HOLLAND 
 
 great numbers. There is a promenade along 
 the seashore similar to those at Brighton, 
 England, and Atlantic City, New Jersey, but 
 this one is built of stone, and is more perma- 
 nent. Ostend is laid out with parked streets 
 and attractive gardens. The Kursaal fronts 
 upon a pretty park. A splendid orchestra 
 and famous operatic stars appear at the 
 Kursaal in the evening, and the assemblage 
 is brilliant with style and fashion. There 
 is more swing in the life at Ostend than in 
 any other sea coast resort of continental Eu- 
 rope. 
 
 Our next visit was to Bruges, which was 
 one of the most important commercial towns 
 in Europe in the thirteenth century. There 
 is sufficient evidence of its former splendor 
 in the Gothic municipal buildings and the 
 churches. In the hospital of St. John is a 
 
 131 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 collection of pictures by Memling which is 
 well worthy of a visit. 
 
 In the outskirts of the city there is a con- 
 vent in which old ladies may be seen making 
 the famous Bruges lace. In the belfry of 
 the Halles there is a set of the finest chimes 
 in Europe. On almost every street corner 
 artists are transferring perspectives to can- 
 vas; but this is about the only sign of life 
 there is. Bruges went to sleep in the four- 
 teenth century and has not awakened since. 
 After a stroll through the unemotional 
 streets, one hopes the town will never know 
 the pulse of modern life, but will remain in 
 all of the glory of its Gothic architecture for 
 the artistic education of future generations. 
 
 After another short ride on the train, we 
 reach Ghent. The Cathedral here is not 
 striking on the outside, but its interior is 
 
 132 
 
BELGIUM AND HOLLAND 
 
 unusually interesting. A traveler visiting 
 the Gothic cathedrals of many European 
 countries becomes familiar with carvings in 
 marble as exquisite in design and execution 
 as the finest lace work. In Belgium, how- 
 ever, he will see something different. In the 
 interior of Belgium cathedrals they use red 
 brick, heavy gold ornamentation, and red or 
 dark grey stone pillars; and yet these are 
 combined in such an artistic way that the 
 effect is one of startling magnificence. The 
 historical associations of Ghent are full of 
 interest. 
 
 On the outskirts of the city we met two 
 charming girls driving a cart into town with 
 a supply of milk in brass cans. The horse 
 seemed to think it was too busy a morning 
 to have his picture taken, but after much 
 pulling on the reins the girls succeeded in 
 
 133 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 inducing him to stand still long enough to 
 be photographed. 
 
 Brussels is one of the most finished capi- 
 tals of Europe. The streets are broad and 
 clean, and ornamented with many handsome 
 monuments. The Cathedral of St. Grudule 
 is rich with objects of art. The pulpit was 
 carved by Verbruegen, and represents the 
 expulsion of Adam and Eve from Paradise. 
 In the chapels are beautiful altars and paint- 
 ings. The stained glass windows are very 
 old, and in the mellow tones of many colors 
 they radiate the effulgence of a lighted 
 Christmas tree. 
 
 The City Hall is Gothic in architecture 
 and is extraordinarily beautiful. Outside of 
 it, under red and white umbrellas, handsome 
 flower girls sell bouquets. A large bunch 
 
 134 
 
CO 
 CO 
 CO 
 
 3 
 t_ 
 
 m 
 
 I 
 >» 
 
 b 
 
 CD 
 
 O 
 
 I 
 
BELGIUM AND HOLLAND 
 
 of American Beauty roses may be had for 
 twenty-five cents. 
 
 The Art Gallery contains a choice, well 
 selected collection of paintings and sculp- 
 tures. The standard is higher than that of 
 the Luxemburg Gallery, and much better 
 than that of the Louvre, both in Paris. It 
 would take at least three days of a tourist's 
 time to do justice to this gallery. 
 
 The Bourse, a trade building, is conceived 
 in a poetical style of architecture, which sig- 
 nifies that these people, while making rapid 
 strides in commerce have simultaneously ad- 
 vanced in art. 
 
 Through the Bois de la Cambre, a subur- 
 ban park, runs a pretty drive, which leads to 
 the battle field of Waterloo. 
 
 Not the least of Brussels' attractions are 
 her boulevards and shops. It is often said 
 
 135 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 of European shops that everything they 
 have is in the windows; but in Brussels, 
 after you have inspected the clever window 
 displays, step inside and you will find a large 
 reserve stock of the famous Brussels lace, 
 fine gloves and handsome leather goods. 
 
 We went by train to Dortrecht, an old- 
 time city, founded by Count Dietricht of 
 Holland in the eleventh century. It is said 
 that in the middle ages all produce brought 
 into Holland had to pass through Dortrecht 
 and pay custom duties there. As a result 
 the town became very flourishing. Its neigh- 
 bor, Rotterdam, became envious and finally 
 secured a great portion of this trade. 
 
 The first Congress of the Netherlands 
 Commonwealth was held at Dortrecht. The 
 city was the birth place of many famous 
 
 136 
 
BELGIUM AND HOLLAND 
 
 painters, among them Arij Scheffer and 
 Nicholas Maas. 
 
 In the Groote Kerke the choir stalls are 
 finely carved, and represent work of the six- 
 teenth century artists. They portray scenes 
 of Bible history. The tower on this church 
 is the only square thing in Dortrecht. The 
 town is full of artistic houses with gabled 
 roofs. Some of the women wear lace bon- 
 nets which are most picturesque. 
 
 In Holland a camera at once attracts a 
 crowd. When about to photograph a lady 
 with a wonderful lace bonnet I was dis- 
 mayed at seeing a lot of others trying to 
 crowd into the picture. I had to promise 
 them to take their picture after I had se- 
 cured that of the lady. In the second pic- 
 ture, where the leading lady is sharing the 
 limelight with so many others, she is not 
 
 137 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 wearing so pleasant a smile. I have been 
 asked if the crowd is the lady's family. 
 
 While walking along the main street one 
 day I saw an artistic figure approaching, ac- 
 companied by a peculiar odor. It proved 
 to be a woman peddling kerosene. She was 
 not anxious to be photographed, but sub- 
 mitted with passive interest. Later in the 
 day I aimlessly turned into an alley and 
 there was the kerosene peddler delivering a 
 morning supply of kerosene to a customer. 
 She promptly gave me a cordial bow, and ex- 
 plained to the lady in Dutch that I was a 
 friend of hers who had already taken her 
 picture. My heart was warmed by this little 
 human experience, and I felt more welcome 
 in Dortrecht. 
 
 Here, as in all Dutch towns, one sees most 
 
 138 
 
I 
 
BELGIUM AND HOLLAND 
 
 peculiar draw bridges which look like those 
 over the moat of a feudal castle. 
 
 Proceeding to the w T harf to take a boat for 
 Rotterdam, we were attracted by the clang- 
 ing bell of a ferry boat, impatiently waiting 
 for its last passengers, a boy and girl with 
 large brass milk cans. They cheerfully took 
 the risk of losing the boat for the sake of 
 two coppers I tossed them while taking their 
 pictures. 
 
 An excellent modern steamboat plies be- 
 tween Dortrecht and Rotterdam. It stops 
 at Kinderquek and other points long enough 
 to take aboard the butter and cheese brought 
 down to the quay by the busy Dutch house- 
 wives. Rotterdam is a commercial town. 
 Its hotels are situated in noisy places, con- 
 sequently we did not stay there long. 
 
 The following day we placed our baggage 
 
 139 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 on a convenient cab and told the man to 
 drive to the boat for Delft. Presently the 
 cab stopped and the driver set the baggage 
 down. There was no boat in sight; but as 
 we approached nearer we saw below the 
 high wharf a canal boat, on the top of which 
 passengers occupied camp chairs around a 
 sportive smoke stack. In the rear end of 
 the boat were several cows, contentedly view- 
 ing the scenery while waiting for the boat to 
 start. We went aboard, took our chairs, and 
 joined the company around the smoke stack. 
 The boat had hardly started when they all 
 slid from their seats into a kneeling posture, 
 We followed the example, just in time to 
 save our heads from a good knock from a 
 low bridge under which we were passing. 
 The smoke stack was turned down on hinges 
 in our midst for the occasion, and when we 
 
 140 
 
BELGIUM AND HOLLAND 
 
 arose from our lowly positions, many of us 
 had blackened faces. 
 
 As the boat proceeded it passed so close to 
 the backs of the houses that we obtained a 
 good idea of the native life. The Dutch 
 fraus would emerge from the houses with a 
 basket of clothes which they wash in the wat- 
 ers of the canal. They scrub the walks and 
 pavements; in fact, they scrub everything 
 in sight, but the trees. Then they slip off 
 their wooden shoes, re-enter the house, and 
 go about their other duties. We handed 
 sweetmeats to the children along the banks 
 of the canal, who made long reaches for them 
 but never fell into the water. 
 
 The pleasant journey ended at Delft, 
 which is the burial place of the Dutch roy- 
 alty. From Delft Haven the Pilgrim Fath- 
 
 141 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 ers started on their journey to America in 
 1620. 
 
 Delft has picturesque canals, and two 
 good churches. There is the old church in 
 which is the tomb of the famous Admiral 
 Van Trompf , and the one built in the four- 
 teenth century, called the new church, in 
 which is the tomb of William of Orange. 
 Near by is the house in which William was 
 assassinated. 
 
 Delft is famous for its blue chinaware. It 
 is now made in factories, and instead of the 
 rich dark blues with which we are familiar, 
 they use mostly a white foundation with a 
 design in blue tracing. The china is sold 
 in only one or two shops, and seems to be 
 quite as expensive here as it is in our own 
 country. 
 
 We again vary our mode of travel, and 
 
 142 
 
0) 
 
 I 
 
 w 
 
 <L) 
 O 
 
 c 
 
 0) 
 "D 
 
 W 
 U 
 
 DC 
 
BELGIUM AND HOLLAND 
 
 take a tram car from Delft to The Hague. 
 Among the passengers are Dutch families 
 who address their acquaintances in excellent 
 French and German. 
 
 In the thirteenth century Count William 
 of Holland built a hunting lodge on the pres- 
 ent site of The Hague. It was called Schra- 
 venhagen, which is the Dutch name for the 
 Count's Woods. The Hague is one of the 
 most elegant capitals in Europe. The pub- 
 lic buildings are handsome, the thorough- 
 fares scrupulously clean, the shops have a 
 smart appearance, and the private houses 
 are ornamental. It is the residence of the 
 Queen, and therefore of the court and aris- 
 tocracy. The people are distinguished look- 
 ing and well mannered. The "Wood" is 
 now on the outskirts of the city; but well 
 kept trees line the streets and leafy branches 
 
 143 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 meet over the tranquil placid canals. In the 
 center of the town is a lake called the Vijer, 
 which mirrors the fascinating shadows of the 
 adjacent public buildings. 
 
 In the Mauritshuis or art gallery is one 
 of the choicest collections of art in Europe. 
 There are fourteen Rembrandts, among 
 which is the famous Rembrandt's Anatomy. 
 The Night Watch, at Amsterdam, by Rem- 
 brandt, is often called the finest picture in 
 Holland; but I think, in some respects, his 
 Anatomical Lecture shows finer talent. In 
 this picture the students are gathered 
 around a table, intently following the anat- 
 omist's demonstrations; and the different 
 expressions of scientific interest upon their 
 countenances overshadow every other detail 
 in the picture. 
 
 Other buildings of interest are the 
 
 144 
 
BELGIUM AND HOLLAND 
 
 Queen's Palace, Baron Steengracht's pic- 
 ture gallery, and the Mesdag Gallery. The 
 first International Peace Conference met at 
 The Hague in 1899. 
 
 In Holland cities it is quite the custom for 
 the people to frequent the streets in the even- 
 ing. At The Hague great crowds assemble 
 every evening on a street called the Lange 
 Pooten. The people have beautified their 
 residences because they love the artistic. 
 There is here all the refinement and comfort 
 of civilization, in an atmosphere of sylvan 
 beauty, which seems the essence of repose 
 and peace. 
 
 The House in the "Wood" is a royal resi- 
 dence in the suburbs. Its interior presents 
 an elegant aspect, but one of domesticity and 
 comfort, which is unusual among the royal 
 palaces of Europe. 
 
 145 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 We took a tram from a shady square 
 called the Plein and went out the old Sche- 
 veningensche Weg to Scheveningen, which 
 is a combination of a fashionable sum- 
 mer resort and fishing village. In the 
 fashionable locality there is a broad 
 walk along the seashore, and several hotels. 
 The fishermen's cottages are situated some 
 distance back of the hotels. About four 
 o'clock in the afternoon fashionable crowds 
 saunter along the promenade. The fisher- 
 men's wives come up from the village and 
 mingle with the throngs, and although they 
 take note of the latest styles from Paris, 
 which change several times during the sea- 
 son, they themselves do not show the least 
 change of heart towards their broad skirts 
 and white-eared bonnets. 
 
 One day as I was crossing the broad ele- 
 
 146 
 
BELGIUM AND HOLLAND 
 
 vated esplanade a woman carrying a basket 
 of fruit and flowers came toward me. I 
 raised my camera and took a snap shot pic- 
 ture of her. She did not stop walking, but 
 covering the distance between us she courte- 
 sied, and said, " Please buy my flowers.' ' 
 The average native does not always manifest 
 such graceful diplomacy. 
 
 Following a broad walk down to the beach, 
 I came upon two women and a man picking 
 up bathing suits. The women had on very 
 wide, bright red skirts. All three looked 
 so typical that I immediately made a bar- 
 gain to take their picture. They agreed to 
 take a copper apiece. I posed them and 
 was looking through the finder of my cam- 
 era to get the focus when I was amazed to 
 see a white horse in the group. The man 
 had marshalled up the horse and stood him 
 
 147 
 
TEAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 in line. I protested to the man that the horse 
 would add nothing to the beauty of the pic- 
 ture, but he simply replied, "Well, give us 
 each two coppers more and we will take the 
 horse out." 
 
 The Scheveningen fishermen wear red 
 shirts and large wooden shoes. I said to 
 one of them, "Are not these shoes cold in 
 winter?" "Oh, no," he replied, "we put 
 straw in them. ' ' 
 
 Along the beach there was a row of green 
 wagons, which looked like enclosed grocers' 
 wagons. I found they were used as bathing 
 houses. The wagons are drawn into the sea 
 by horses, and the bather jumps out of the 
 wagon for his daily bath. There were also 
 hundreds of tall yellow baskets, in which the 
 ladies sat in comfortable protection against 
 
 148 
 
BELGIUM AND HOLLAND 
 
 the wind while the children waded in the 
 water or picked up shells on the sand. 
 
 Back in the village the women gossip 
 while the wash dries. I walked up and 
 down the street trying to get pictures of 
 them ; but directly I raised my camera they 
 would disappear into the house as if by 
 magic. A group would scatter like fright- 
 ened doves. I hired a cab and instructed 
 the man to drive slowly. After passing a 
 group, I would suddenly stand up and snap 
 a picture ; but all I obtained was a photo of 
 their fleeing backs. At last I encountered 
 a clerical looking individual who regarded 
 me severely, and said, "Why do you annoy 
 these people? It is against their religion 
 to have their picture taken." I afterwards 
 read in a book on Holland that they regard it 
 as a transgression of the first commandment. 
 
 149 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 There is no harbor at Scheveningen, but a 
 town-crier keeps watch at night for the fish- 
 ing boats coming in from the North Sea, 
 and when he sights one he calls, "Come out, 
 come out," and the people go down to the 
 beach and help the horses pull the boat up on 
 the sand. There are generally ten or fifteen 
 boats lined up on the beach, and with their 
 colored sails and flags, they are one of the 
 most picturesque sights of the place. 
 
 We now returned to The Hague, and pro- 
 ceeded by automobile to Leiden. Every 
 time our machine stopped we were imme- 
 diately surrounded by a group of children. 
 Holland is the home of the "Old woman who 
 lived in a shoe who had so many children she 
 didn't know what to do." 
 
 In Holland the canals run through the 
 fields, and the grain grows right up to the 
 
 150 
 
BELGIUM AND HOLLAND 
 
 water's edge. It is not unusual to see a 
 large boat in full sail apparently moving 
 through a level field of grain. 
 
 On our journey as we crossed a road I 
 saw a shepherd driving a flock of sheep. 
 They were in position to make a pretty pic- 
 ture. I jumped out of the machine and ran 
 toward them. The sheep, seeing a figure 
 bearing madly down upon them, and having 
 no reason to believe it was a friendly visitor, 
 promptly broke ranks, jumped off the high 
 road into a ditch of water, and threw them- 
 selves against a barbed wire fence. To my 
 utter astonishment none of them were se- 
 verely injured ; but they broke through the 
 fence and scattered far and wide in a large 
 field. The disconsolate shepherd shook his 
 head and waved his arms in wild despair. In 
 order to assist him, we made an effort to re- 
 
 151 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 assemble the sheep; but this was no easy 
 matter. Two young farmers came into the 
 field and soon demonstrated that their meth- 
 od of managing sheep was far superior to 
 ours. They gathered the flock together, 
 chased them out onto the high road, and 
 headed them for home. We gave the shep- 
 herd some good coins to comfort him ; but he 
 had lost a half hour's time, and went off with 
 his flock shaking his head dubiously. 
 
 One entering Leiden must soon feel the 
 intellectual superiority of its people, and 
 be impressed by its atmosphere of crisp pre- 
 cision. It has a very good university. The 
 famous painter, Rembrandt, was born here. 
 His parents sent him to the university to 
 study law, but when he should have been get- 
 ting his lessons he was out in the woods, 
 painting. 
 
 152 
 
BELGIUM AND HOLLAND 
 
 History tells us that when the Spaniards 
 entered Holland for conquest in the six- 
 teenth century, Leiden was under siege for 
 almost a year. During the last six months 
 of the siege, in 1574, eight thousand people 
 died of famine. William of Orange ex- 
 horted the inhabitants to hold out and he 
 would send them aid. His brother, Louis, 
 died fighting with the troops on his way to 
 Leiden. The waters were so low that the 
 rescuing Dutch fleet could not approach the 
 town. On August the third, William di- 
 rected that the dykes be pierced in sixteen 
 places, but this did not let in sufficient water 
 to float the heavy Dutch ships. The people 
 of the town begged Burgomaster Yander 
 Werf to surrender. He replied, "Here is 
 my sword. Take it and plunge it into my 
 breast and divide my flesh among you to 
 
 153 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 appease your hunger, but expect no surren- 
 der as long as I live." On October the sec- 
 ond, a storm on the North Sea raised the 
 level of the waters, and the Dutch sailors 
 forced their ships up to the forts. The Span- 
 ish army fled and the town was saved. Once 
 a year, on October the third, the inhabitants 
 gather around the statue of Burgomaster 
 Vander Werf , in Vander Werf Park, and 
 celebrate deliverance day. As a reward for 
 their bravery, William of Orange offered 
 the people exemption from taxes or a uni- 
 versity. They took the university. 
 
 On the outskirts of the city there is a 
 boys' military school. It was evidently 
 wash day when we were there, for the boys' 
 clothing was hanging up to dry in the most 
 convenient place, which was the masts of 
 their ship. 
 
 154 
 
BELGIUM AND HOLLAND 
 
 We now went in the automobile to a little 
 fishing village by the sea called Katwijk. 
 Some people think all these villages look 
 alike, but to me they are all different, and 
 each has a charm of its own. In Katwijk 
 the roofs are red, the blinds are green, while 
 to be in fashion, the front door must be blue. 
 There are no idlers in Katwijk; everyone 
 is busy. The faces of the people radiate su- 
 preme contentment, which is one of the 
 great attractions of the Dutch nation. 
 
 The church at Katwijk is whitewashed 
 both inside and out. An Englishman, spec- 
 ulating upon possibilities if the English 
 should move to Holland, said: "The little 
 villages would not be so clean, and idle la- 
 dies with parasols and idle gentlemen in 
 knickerbockers would appear upon the 
 streets. If the Dutch moved to England, 
 
 155 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 the race-tracks and athletic fields would be 
 turned into pastures and Westminster Ab- 
 bey would be whitewashed." 
 
 We now resume our automobile tour to 
 Harlem. Just out of Katwijk we came to 
 an unusual ferry boat. It had a coupling 
 appliance at each end which instantly and 
 mechanically fastened the boat to the wharf. 
 
 Everywhere along the route are the at- 
 tractive black and white Dutch Holstein 
 cows. The life of a cow in Holland must be 
 a joy forever. In summer she has rich pas- 
 turage and the pure water in the near-by 
 canals. And some people say that in win- 
 ter the cow has a red velvet blanket to keep 
 her warm. Anyway, she is brought under 
 the same roof with the family, and has a 
 suite of rooms which is separated by only 
 one door from the family sitting room. The 
 
 156 
 
BELGIUM AND HOLLAND 
 
 walls of her so-called stable are white- 
 washed, and the floor is strewn with saw- 
 dust. The result of all this attention is that 
 the Holland cow is a mild and thoroughly 
 companionable looking animal. 
 
 We now reach Harlem, where the chief 
 modern industry is bulb culture. In the sev- 
 enteenth century the city was noted for its 
 architects and painters. Lieven de Key 
 built the famous Harlem meat market, which 
 is in an excellent state of preservation and 
 is a fine example of that artistic period. The 
 town hall is another famous structure, and 
 in one of its beautiful rooms there is a col- 
 lection of Frans Hals' pictures. This artist 
 was born in Harlem, and was a prolific paint- 
 er. His portraits, whether singly or in 
 groups, are virile and forcible, and, in my 
 opinion, compare favorably with those of 
 
 157 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 Rembrandt in his best style. The Harlem 
 collection is large and essentially fine Dutch 
 art. I found it the most interesting single 
 collection in Holland. 
 
 The Dutch painters, Reubens, Rembrandt, 
 De Clayer, Van Dyke and Frans Hals, ideal- 
 ize humanity and bring out its best qualities. 
 In their pictures the drawings are fine, 
 strong, and perfect in proportions. The re- 
 fined faces in their paintings show conscience, 
 courage, strength and fortitude — the virtues 
 that elevate humanity above the ordinary 
 level. This seems to have been accomplished 
 without effort on the artists' part: it was 
 their inspiration. They lived and worked in 
 an artistic atmosphere so long that when 
 they reached the point of interpreting their 
 conceptions the pictures developed without 
 apparent effort. Thus the most evident 
 
 158 
 
BELGIUM AND HOLLAND 
 
 quality of their work is naturalism. The 
 coloring as an attribute of art is lost sight 
 of ; if it were eccentric it would be remarked ; 
 if poor it would be instantly observed; but 
 it is so true to life and so natural that the 
 groups seem to be living beings. 
 
 Prom Harlem we now proceed to Alk- 
 maar. We notice that the women in the dis- 
 trict near Alkmaar wear very trying and 
 unbecoming bonnets. 
 
 Alkmaar exports five million kilos of 
 cheese a year. Friday is market day, and 
 at five in the morning wagon-loads of cheese 
 begin to arrive at the market. The cheese 
 for export is colored red, that for home con- 
 sumption is colored yellow. After the 
 wagons arrive, the farmers throw the cheese 
 from the load to the porters on the market- 
 place, and hundreds of the red balls are fly- 
 
 159 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 ing through the air at the same time. You 
 cross the market-place directly under the 
 shower. The balls are laid in rows, and the 
 buying begins at ten o'clock. When the 
 farmers and the buyers agree on a price they 
 strike hands. Sometimes they strike hands 
 several times, to close the deal. It looks as 
 if a great many long lost brothers had sud- 
 denly met. 
 
 The weigh house is a grey stone building. 
 In the belfry there is a set of chimes, and 
 the campanologist plays lively tunes, to en- 
 courage the market. After the cheeses have 
 been sold they are piled in pyramids on 
 wooden boat-shaped receptacles. These are 
 swung by means of straps over the shoulders 
 of two porters. The porters commence a 
 short fast trot in rhythm with the merry 
 tunes dancing out of the belfry and csltyj 
 
 160 
 
BELGIUM AND HOLLAND 
 
 the cheeses into the weigh house. After 
 they have been weighed and registered, the 
 porters take up the load again and carry it 
 to the canal boat, a dozen steps away. Each 
 cheese weighs about four pounds, and there 
 are sixty of them in each pyramid. The 
 porters wear white suits, and colored rib- 
 bons on their hats. They administer their 
 duties with dignity and love the work. Some 
 of them have been in the service of this 
 market for many years. 
 
 When the canal boats are loaded they sail 
 to some ocean port like Amsterdam, where 
 their cargoes are transferred to the holds of 
 ocean vessels, to be carried to foreign lands. 
 In this market a large business is transacted 
 with system and finesse, in an artistic set- 
 ting, accompanied by dazzling kaleidoscopic 
 effects of motion and color. The market is 
 
 161 
 
TEAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 full of life, and is one of the most interesting 
 places in Holland. 
 
 We now resume our motor tour to Zan- 
 dam, the center of the windmill country. 
 There are seven hundred windmills in Zan- 
 dam, which operate dairies, lumber mills, 
 grist mills and blacksmith shops. In the 
 country the farmers often live in the large 
 round base of the mill which makes a very 
 comfortable home. 
 
 The dykes of Holland were not con- 
 structed for automobile traffic. Thev are 
 only wide enough on top for the milk carts 
 drawn by the dogs. Just outside of Zandam 
 there is a very high dyke about a mile long, 
 which runs through a marsh. We had 
 started along the dyke, and had made about 
 half the distance in our sixty horse power 
 machine, when we met a load of lumber. The 
 
 162 
 
BELGIUM AND HOLLAND 
 
 problem of passing was not a simple one. 
 Each vehicle hung over the side of the dyke 
 so far that it came near rolling into the 
 marsh from gravitation. It is said that it 
 costs five million dollars a year to repair the 
 dykes of Holland, and also in the process of 
 repair they are completely reconstructed 
 every five years. There is a legend to the 
 effect that a key in Amsterdam controls all 
 the dykes in Holland ; and that if a conquer- 
 ing power should obtain possession of the 
 country, the dykes, by means of this key, 
 could be opened and the entire country sub- 
 merged. 
 
 In 1697 Peter the Great of Russia came 
 to Zandam to learn ship building. The little 
 hut in which he lived while here is now en- 
 closed with brick walls, in order to preserve 
 it. 
 
 163 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 From Zandam we proceeded by automo- 
 bile to Amsterdam, a great commercial 
 center. It is very interesting to walk along 
 the canals and see the boats loaded with 
 cargoes worth many thousands of dollars 
 and destined for all parts of the world. If 
 there is a leisure class in Amsterdam I did 
 not discover any evidence of it. 
 
 In the Rijks Museum is a very fine col- 
 lection of art which includes Rembrandt's 
 celebrated painting, the Night Watch. 
 
 One of the largest diamond markets in the 
 world is at Amsterdam. When you enter a 
 diamond store you are very closely scrutin- 
 ized, and the door is locked behind you. The 
 showcases are filled with unset stones. The 
 clerks show them to you by the handful; 
 each handful is worth thousands of dollars. 
 After seeing this market, a diamond never 
 
 164 
 
BELGIUM AND HOLLAND 
 
 looks quite the same anywhere else. Here 
 they look like fresh dew drops. 
 
 One morning, after having visited a vege- 
 table market, I wished to take a picture of 
 the street diverging to the right. As I 
 turned the corner, while looking in my cam- 
 era to watch the picture appear in the finder, 
 I suddenly saw a volume of falling water 
 that looked almost as large as Niagara Falls. 
 A stolid Dutchman facing me was washing 
 the street and the water from the hose was 
 descending near my feet. I looked at him 
 inquiringly. He looked at my camera un- 
 flinchingly, and the unwavering " Niagara" 
 continued to approach. I could see from the 
 unrelenting expression on his face that the 
 Dutchman had no intention of turning the 
 hose away; consequently there was nothing 
 for me to do but to beat a hasty retreat. 
 
 165 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 The general market in Amsterdam is held 
 under tents. I saw there a large display of 
 china, from which one could select anything 
 necessary to set a dinner table. In another 
 tent was a large variety of shoe strings. It 
 is very interesting to mingle with the people 
 in the market-places, for you then come in 
 direct contact with them, and can learn much 
 concerning their daily lives in their buying 
 and selling. When stopping in a foreign 
 town I generally go to the market every day. 
 
 One evening we went out for a stroll under 
 the trees along the canal. We saw a man in 
 a row boat, and thought we would like to 
 take a ride. We beckoned to him. As the 
 boat came up we saw on one end of it an 
 extension bridge which slanted obliquely up- 
 ward until it reached the top of the bank on 
 which we were standing. Taking hold of 
 
 166 
 
BELGIUM AND HOLLAND 
 
 the side railing, we walked down the bridge 
 into the boat and seated ourselves comfort- 
 ably. The boatman rowed up stream, and 
 shortly a lighted pavillion upon an island 
 came into view. We motioned to the boat- 
 man to row over to it, and the ascending 
 bridge again reached easily to the high bank. 
 After having a lemonade, we walked down 
 our bridge into the boat again. This ar- 
 rangement is the most convenient thing 
 imaginable. I do not think the American 
 people appreciate how convenient it is, to 
 always carry your own bridge with you. 
 
 The next morning, I called a cab, and not 
 speaking Dutch, I instructed the hotel porter 
 to tell the cab man to drive around the city 
 and show me the sights. After a while the 
 cab stopped in front of two houses with a 
 passage-way between them. The cab man 
 
 167 
 
TRAVEL SKETCHES 
 
 motioned me to enter the passage-way. The 
 houses were evidently private ones and had 
 very forbidding exteriors, so I declined. 
 Thereupon the cab man jumped off his box 
 and gesticulated so wildly and shouted so 
 loudly that rather than be arrested for dis- 
 turbing the peace I entered the passage-way. 
 At the end of it was an enclosure completely 
 surrounded by houses. In the center of the 
 enclosure upon a grass plat was a charming 
 church which I should not have cared to 
 miss. 
 
 We now took a boat for the Isle of Marken, 
 which is noted for its picturesqueness and 
 the quaint costumes of the people. There 
 are always several photographers here, 
 snapping the same group of children, who 
 pose with unconscious and almost profes- 
 sional ease. 
 
 168 
 
BELGIUM AND HOLLAND 
 
 From Amsterdam we went to Bremen, 
 and there took a liner for America. The 
 third day out was to be Doctor's birthday; 
 so before sailing I secretly visited a confec- 
 tioner's shop and ordered a birthday cake, 
 which was delivered to the steward of the 
 boat. On the birthday the waiter approached 
 the dinner table bearing a white cake three 
 stories high, decorated with pink candles 
 and white confectionery roses. The cake al- 
 most illuminated the dining room, whose 0C7 
 cupants seemed to take more than a passing 
 interest in the celebration. 
 
 With pleasant incidents the time on ship 
 board passes quickly; but to the American 
 who has spent several months in Europe, the 
 New York Harbor is the finest sight in the 
 world. 
 
 169