3K 
 
Complete 
 Guide to 
 Millinery 
 
 of The Kintzel 
 Millinery School 
 
 By 
 Mrs. Margaret Kintzbl 
 
 and 
 Mrs. Mary M. Lunt 
 
COMPLETE 
 
 GUIDE TO MILLINERY 
 
 of 
 KINTZEL MILLINERY SCHOOL 
 
 By 
 
 Mrs. Margaret Kintzel 
 
 and 
 
 Mrs. Mary M. Lunt 
 
 Copyright. 1915, by Mrs. Mary M. Lunt 
 

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 MAR 23 I9IS 
 
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Contents 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Stitches used in millinery 5 
 
 To cover a large hat 5 
 
 To wire a buckram frame 5 
 
 To case a wire 5-6 
 
 To cut a pattern 6 
 
 To cut and put on the top covering 6 
 
 To cut and put on a facing 7 
 
 To put on a top crown 7 
 
 To cut and put in a lining 7 
 
 To cut, make and put in a bandeau 8 
 
 To cut and make a three-quarter bandeau 8 
 
 To make an all-round bandeau 8 
 
 To put on a side crown 8-9 
 
 To draw a lining 9 
 
 To make an open crown Princess evening hat 9 
 
 To cut, make and cover a Princess ring frame 9-10 
 
 To cut, make and put on a twisted crown 10 
 
 To put on wrinkled sides 10-1 1 
 
 To make and put on Princess loops 11 
 
 One way of trimming the Princess hat 1 1-12 
 
 To make a fancy bicycle hat 12-13 
 
 To make a little girl's fancy Tam O'Shanter hat 13-14 
 
 To cut and make a shirred hat 14-15 
 
 To put on a spring binding 16 
 
 To make a rope twist 16 
 
 To put on a plain binding 16 
 
 Correct method of cutting velvet on the bias 16-17 
 
 To cut and make a plain fold 17 
 
 To cut and make a French fold 17 
 
 To put on a French fold 17 
 
 To cut, make and put on a plain Tam O'Shanter crown 17-18 
 
 To make a fancy Tam O'Shanter crown 18-19 
 
 To put a puff on a hat 19 
 
 To make a plain Belvidere 19 
 
 To cover an oval crowned toque 20 
 
 To put a fulled brim on a toque 20 
 
 To cover a plain round turban 20-2 1 
 
 To make a straw, chenille or ribbon crown 21 
 
 To make a straw braid crown 21 
 
 To make a fancy straw braid crown 21-22 
 
 Draped crowns 22 
 
 To make a fancy crown for a lace hat 22 
 
 To cover a wire 22-23 
 
 To put on a covered wire 23 
 
 To make a net or chiffon hat 23-24 
 
 To make the crown 24 
 
 To bind the wires of a wire frame 24 
 
 To wind the wires 24 
 
 To double wind 25 
 
 To flute lace on a wire frame 25 
 
 To tuck shirr lace on a wire frame 25-26 
 
 To put chiffon or net on a wire frame with a ruched edge 26 
 
 To cover a wire frame with lace 26-27 
 
 To cover a wire frame with lace double 27 
 
 To cover a wire frame with chiffon, plain 27-28 
 
 To cover a bonnet plain 28 
 
 To line a bonnet 28 
 
 To make a net bonnet 29 
 
 To make a chiffon rose quilling 29 
 
 To make a rose quilted facing 29 
 
 To make a shirred horse shoe bonnet 30 
 
 To make a lace bonnet, toque shape 30-31 
 
 To put a puff on the edge of a bonnet 31 
 
 To hem velvet 31 
 
 To make a lace wing 31 
 
 To hem crepe or silk plain , 31 
 
 To make a binding hem ', .'. 32 
 
 To make a fancy crepe hem \ 32 
 
 To hem a crepe veil '. 32 
 
 To make a lace aigrette 32 
 
 To put net or chiffon on a wire frame and bead it 32-33 
 
 To make velvet underneath trimming 33 
 
 To drape a veil (plain drape) 33 
 
CONTENTS — CONTINUED 
 
 PAGE 
 
 To form a box drape 33-34 
 
 To form a finger puff drape 34 
 
 To drape a veil over the face 34 
 
 Some bu3iness suggestions ] 34 
 
 To make wrapped underneath trimming 35 
 
 To make chiffon underneath trimming 35 
 
 To sew a silk wire on the edge of a felt hat .......'. 35 
 
 To sew a silk wire on a felt hat not on the edge 35 
 
 To put a silk wire on a straw hat 36 
 
 Most popular ruche 36 
 
 Bows [36-37 
 
 To wire ribbon 37 
 
 To make wrapped trimming 37 
 
 To make a wrapped Alsatian bow 37-38 
 
 The rosette bow 38 
 
 To make a wrapped butterfly bow 38 
 
 To make a wrapped chiffon rosette 38 
 
 Flower bows 3g 
 
 The bonnet bow 39 
 
 The chrysanthemum bow 39 
 
 The water wheel bow 39 
 
 The Alsatian bow 40 
 
 To use folds 40 
 
 To make rosettes , 40 
 
 Directions for making puff rosettes 40-41 
 
 Tailored rosettes 41 
 
 To make a plain rosette 41 
 
 To make a box pleated rosette 41 
 
 To make a rose rosette 41 
 
 To make a double rosette 41-42 
 
 To make a hollyhock rosette 42 
 
 To make choux 42 
 
 To make a lace jabot 42 
 
 To make a rose quilling of lace 42 
 
 To combine colors 43 
 
 Tinting 43 
 
 Feathers 44 
 
 Flowers and foliage 44 
 
 Veilings 44 
 
 Combinations of colors 44-45 
 
 White and black 45 
 
 Colors 45 
 
 Colors for a brunette 45 
 
 Rules for the blonde woman 45-46 
 
 Recipes 46-47 
 
 Miscellaneous 47 
 
 To remove axle grease stain 47 
 
 Gold and silver trimmings 48 
 
 To clean braids 48 
 
 Cleaning lace goods 48 
 
 To clean white lace 48 
 
 To dye lace 48 
 
 Silk laces 49 
 
 Washable laces 49 
 
 To steam velvet 49 
 
 To bleach a leghorn hat 49 
 
 To press ribbon that has been used 49 
 
 To wash silk ribbon 49-50 
 
 Treating crepe 50 
 
 Steaming crepe SO 
 
 To steam crepe 50 
 
 To mirroir velvet 50 
 
 Plush goods 50 
 
 Coffee stains 51 
 
 To clean wings 51 
 
 Cleaning hats 51 
 
 Steaming hats, etc 52 
 
 To clean a white felt hat 52 
 
 Cleaning a white velours hat 52 
 
 To renovate hats 52 
 
 To press hats 52 
 
 To freshen black raoire ribbon 52 
 
 To whiten feathers 53 
 
 To clean white plume 53 
 
 White and light colored feathers 53 
 
 The art of keeping clothes dean 53-54 
 
Stitches Used in Millinery 
 
 The running stitch is used for all shirrings. The slip stitch 
 is used for making folds and putting on milliner's folds and bind- 
 ing. The cat stitch is used for hemming velvet. The overcast 
 stitch is used for joining the upper and lower portion of the brim 
 of a hat when the same is to be covered with an edging. The 
 button hole stitch is used for putting in lining and sewing satin 
 covered wire on the edge of ribbons. The cross stitch may be 
 used for the same purpose. The back stitch is used for sewing 
 ribbons or silks together. 
 
 To Cover a Large Hat 
 
 First. Wire the buckram frame. 
 
 Second. Case the wire. 
 
 Third. Cut the pattern. 
 
 Fourth. Cut and put on the top covering. 
 
 Fifth. Cut and put on the facing. 
 
 Sixth. Put on the top crown. 
 
 Seventh. Put in the lining. 
 
 Eighth. Cut, make, cover and put in the bandeau. 
 
 Ninth. Put on the side crown. 
 
 Tenth. Draw the lining. 
 
 To Wire a Buckram Frame 
 
 All common buckram frames have a wire on the outside edge- 
 of the brim, which is covered with tissue paper and pasted on. 
 This wire is liable to come off in the handling of the frame. It is 
 necessary, therefore, to sew on the common cotton wire, right over 
 the paper covered wire, with an over and over stitch. Begin at 
 the back and see that you keep your wire right on the edge of your 
 frame. 
 
 Let no portion of it be under or on top of the brim. 
 
 Allow two inches of wire more than you need, lap it and 
 finish off neatly on top of the brim. 
 
 To Case a Wire 
 
 Cut a bias strip of lining material the color of your frame. 
 
 One inch wide. 
 
 Long enough to go around the outside edge of your brim. 
 
 Fold it over your wire. 
 
 Stretch it so that it will not make ruffles. 
 
Sew it on, up and down stitch. 
 
 (An up and down stitch is not a back stitch.) 
 
 All careful milHners case their wires. 
 
 To Cut a Pattern 
 
 Pin a piece of paper around the facing of your frame. 
 
 To the casing which you have just put on. 
 
 Have the paper large enough, so that it will extend beyond 
 the edge of your frame. 
 
 Cut your paper so that it will be one-half inch wider than 
 your frame all around. 
 
 Now rub your thumb around the paper just where the crown 
 touches it. 
 
 Cut out a circle, leaving the paper extend one inch inside of 
 the crown. 
 
 Slash this inch all around to within a sixteenth of an inch 
 of the crown. 
 
 Put a marking pin in the front of the frame. 
 
 Also one in the paper pattern. 
 
 To Cut and Put on the Top Covering 
 
 Lay the paper pattern on your material, so that it will be 
 on the bias. 
 
 Pin it all around. the outside edge. 
 
 Put a few pins in the center. 
 
 Cut exactly like the pattern, all around the outside edge, 
 the inside circle and each slash, just as you have it in the pattern. 
 
 Put a marking pin in your material, just where the marking 
 pin is in the pattern. 
 
 Take out all of the pins except the markers. 
 
 Slip your material over the crown, on the top of your brim, 
 so that the markers will both be in the same place. 
 
 Pin this top all around the outside edge of the brim to the 
 casing. 
 
 Turn your hat bottom side up and sew the top material to 
 the buckram facing. 
 
 Take one stitch in the buckram and one stitch in the material, 
 over and over. 
 
 Sew the slashes to the side crown. 
 
 Long and short stitch. 
 
 The short stitch is a back stitch. 
 
 Do not get this stitch mixed up with the up and down stitch. 
 
 If any of your stitches have come through on the edge of the 
 top material, rip them out and sew over again. 
 
 See that you do not draw the top material too tight for the 
 frame; it will bulge if you do. 
 
To Cut and Put on a Facing 
 
 Lay your paper pattern (the same that you used for cutting 
 the top) on the material so that it will be on the bias. 
 
 Pin around the outside edge. 
 
 Cut around the outside edge only. 
 
 The inside crown is never cut until the facing is on the hat. 
 
 Put your marking pin in its place. 
 
 Take out all of the pins except the marker. 
 
 Pin on the facing smoothly. 
 
 Turn in the edge and pin again. 
 
 When you have all smoothly pinned around, without pleats, 
 slip stitch the edge, so that no stitch is seen anywhere. 
 
 Cut out the inside crown circle exactly as you did in the 
 paper pattern. 
 
 Slash the inch. 
 
 Sew the slashes to the inside side crown, long stitch inside, 
 just as you sewed the slashes to the outside side crown. 
 
 The facing must be perfectly smooth, without pleats or 
 wrinkles. 
 
 To Put on a Top Crown 
 
 Pin a piece of your material on to the top crown, so that it 
 will be on the bias. 
 
 Stretch smoothly while you pin. 
 
 Sew it on to the side crown, about one-fourth of an inch 
 below the edge of the crown. 
 
 Long stitch on the outside. 
 
 Do not sew more than one-fourth of an inch below the edge 
 of the crown. 
 
 If you do, you will have pleats that are not wanted. 
 
 Cut your material off close to your stitches. 
 
 Be careful that you do not cut the stitches. 
 
 To Cut and Put in a Lining 
 
 Cut a piece of lining material, lengthwise of your goods five 
 to eight inches wide, according to depth of crown, and long enough 
 to measure twice lengthwise and once crosswise of your crown. 
 
 Sew the lining in. 
 
 Long stitch on the lining. 
 
 See that all stitches, cuts in the slashes, etc., are hidden. 
 
 Turn in the ends where you begin, and finish the lining and 
 slip stitch them together. 
 
 Turn in the top edge of your lining. 
 
 Run a tuck one-fourth of an inch wide for a casing to hold 
 the narrow ribbon with which you draw the lining after you 
 have your hat entirely finished. 
 
To Cut, Make and Put in a Bandeau 
 
 Cut a piece of buckram crescent shape. 
 
 One inch wide in the center and tapering to one-half inch 
 at the sides. 
 
 Long enough to get halfway around your inside crown. 
 
 Wire this piece of buckram all around with cotton wire. 
 
 Allow two inches of the wire to lap. 
 
 Over and over stitches. 
 
 Lay the bandeau on your material. 
 
 Cut two pieces one-half inch wider than the bandeau all 
 around. 
 
 Cover one side of the bandeau by drawing the edges of the 
 covering together, over and over. 
 
 Draw in the ends smoothly. 
 
 Cover the other side by pinning the other piece around smoothly. 
 
 Turn in all of the edges. 
 
 Slip stitch neatly all around. 
 
 This will make a half bandeau. 
 
 Place your bandeau into your side crown wherever fashion 
 decrees that it shall be. 
 
 Sew it in. Short stitch inside. 
 
 To Cut and Make a Three-quarter Bandeau 
 
 Cut the buckram crescent shape, like the half bandeau, but 
 make it long enough to go three-fourths around the inside crown. 
 Wire, cover, finish and put in just like the half bandeau. 
 
 To Make an All-round Bandeau 
 
 Cut a straight piece of buckram three-fourths of an inch 
 wide and long enough to fit snugly into your inside crown. 
 
 Sew the ends together to form a ring. 
 
 Wire this ring top and bottom. 
 
 Allow two inches of wire to lap. 
 
 Cut a bias strip of your covering material two and one-half 
 inches wide and long enough to go around the ring. 
 
 Fold this piece around the ring. 
 
 Turn in the edges. 
 
 Sew the edges together over and over, fine. 
 
 Lap the finishing end over the beginning end. 
 
 Turn in the raw edge and finish neatly. 
 
 To Put on a Side Crown 
 
 Cut a bias strip of. your material one inch wider than the 
 side crown is high. 
 
 8 
 
Turn in the lower edge of this strip. 
 
 Tack the end to that part of your side crown where the trim- 
 ming will hide the seam. 
 
 A tack is a stitch up and down three or four times in one 
 place. 
 
 After you have placed your first tack, stretch your strip 
 tightly around the bottom of your side crown. 
 
 Keep the lower edge of your strip turned in. 
 
 When you get past your first tack, tack again. 
 
 Turn in the upper edge of your strip even with the crown. 
 Sew long stitch on the outside where your ends join. 
 
 One end of the side crown must lap over the other. 
 
 Cut ofif your surplus material close to the stitches. 
 
 To Draw a Lining 
 
 Thread a bodkin with narrow ribbon (baby ribbon), run it 
 through the casing of your lining. 
 
 Draw this ribbon until your lining fits the inside crown. 
 
 Tie the ribbon together, and then tie a neat little bow, two 
 loops and two ends. 
 
 Cut off what ribbon you do not need, and notch the ends 
 of the bow. 
 
 Do not draw your lining too tight for the crown. 
 
 Leave room for the hair. 
 
 The lining should never be drawn until you have trimmed 
 your hat. 
 
 To Make an Open Crown Princess Evening Hat 
 
 First. Cut the frame and sew the points. 
 
 Second. Wire the frame. 
 
 Third. Cut the cover for the frame and put it on. 
 
 Fourth. Cut the material for the crown and trimming. 
 
 Fifth. Hem this material. 
 
 Sixth. Put on the twisted crown. 
 
 Seventh. Put on the wrinkled sides. 
 
 Eighth. Make and put on the Princess bows. 
 
 To Cut, Make and Cover a Princess Ring Frame. 
 
 Cut a straight strip of buckram. 
 
 One inch wide and eighteen inches long. 
 
 Cut the ends of this strip slanting, so that they will form a 
 point when sewed together. 
 
 Up and down stitch. 
 
 This will be the back of the ring. 
 
 Cut a slit in the front one-half inch long. 
 
 Fold over the ends of the slit and tack, so that your ring 
 will also have a pointed appearance in front. 
 
 Do not seam all the way down like the back. 
 
Begin one inch from the back and wire, first the top and then 
 the bottom of the ring. 
 
 Lap your wires two inches. 
 
 Cut a bias strip of material two inches wide and long enough 
 to go around the ring and one inch over. 
 
 Begin at the back, fold the material around the ring, so that 
 the raw edges will be on the outside of the ring. 
 
 Draw together over and over stitches. 
 
 Keep the inside smooth, as this will be the lining of your 
 hat. 
 
 At the points, it will be necessary to pleat slightly. 
 
 Turn in the end of your strip, lap it over the end you began 
 with, as far as it will go. 
 
 Draw together tightly there, so that the folded end will stay 
 down without any more stitches. 
 
 To Cut, Make and Put on a Twisted Crown 
 
 Cut two bias strips of your material. 
 
 Five inches wide and eight inches long. 
 
 Hem, velvet hem, if your material is velvet, plain crepe; no 
 hem required if you use ribbon or ribbon velvet. 
 
 Gather each short end of these two strips very coarse gathers, 
 draw tightly and tack. 
 
 Sew one gathered end of one strip to the outside covering of 
 your frame. 
 
 About two inches from the back point and about three- 
 fourths of an inch below the upper edge of your ring. 
 
 Sew the other gathered end of this strip to the other side of 
 your ring, also two inches from the back point and three-fourths 
 of an inch below the upper edge of your ring. 
 
 Sew one gathered end of the remaining strip to the outside 
 covering of your ring, two inches from the front point. 
 
 Draw the remaining gathered end through the loop which you 
 have at the back, twist, so that all of the crown will be right side up. 
 
 Sew this gathered end to the other side of your ring two inches 
 from the front point. 
 
 To Put on Wrinkled Sides 
 
 Cut two bias strips of material five inches wide and eight 
 inches long. 
 
 Hem with the hem that suits the material. 
 
 Gather all of the short ends, coarse gathers, draw tightly 
 and tack. 
 
 Sew one gathered end of one strip to the outside covering 
 of your ring one inch from the back point, over and over stitch. 
 
 Stretch your strip tightly over the outside of your ring, give 
 it a wrinkled look (not pleated) and sew to the outside covering 
 of your ring as near the front point as it will come. 
 
 10 
 
Sew the remaining strip in the same manner to the opposite side 
 of your ring. 
 
 It is not necessary to have the wrinkled sides to cover the 
 points. 
 
 The Princess loops are sewed there and will hide all deficiencies. 
 
 To Make and Put on Princess Loops 
 
 Cut two bias strips of your material five inches wide and 
 thirty-six inches long. 
 
 Hem both sides of these strips suitably. 
 
 Measure off a space in the middle of one strip the width of 
 a buckle and mark with pins just where the ends of the buckle 
 would be. 
 
 Divide what you have left at each side into three parts. 
 
 Mark each division with a pin. 
 
 Gather and tack one short end of this strip (coarse gathers), 
 but do not clip your thread. 
 
 Begin on the side where your thread now is and gather across 
 where your next pin is. 
 
 Draw and single tack. 
 
 To single tack is to tack the end of what you have just gathered. 
 
 You will find that you now have a loop which is open at one 
 end and closed at the other. 
 
 Tack the open ends of the loop together. 
 
 Gather, draw and single tack where your next pin is. 
 
 You will now have two loops closed at one end and one open 
 loop. 
 
 Lay the loops one on top of the other and tack the two loops 
 together, closing the open side of your last loop. 
 
 Gather, draw and single tack where your next pin is. 
 
 Tack the three loops together. 
 
 Make three loops on the other side of your strip like the ones 
 you have just finished. 
 
 Pin the center of your space to the front point of your frame. 
 
 Arrange the loops gracefully and sew to the outside covering 
 of the frame. 
 
 Make your other strip into loops in the same manner and sew 
 across the back. 
 
 Stretch the space portions tightly around the points and 
 tack. 
 
 One Way. of Trimming the Princess Hat 
 
 This hat may be made to look very stylish by sewing a 
 standing bunch of very small tips behind the loops at the left side 
 of the front. 
 
 Sew a handsome buckle just over the space in front. 
 
 Sew a bunch of violets or other small flowers between the 
 first and second loops at the front. 
 
 Make two lace fans. 
 
 11 
 
Sew one lace fan to each side of the back, so that the lace 
 will fall on the hair. 
 
 Sew a bunch of flowers into the space at the back. 
 
 This hat may be made of velvet, silk, fancy crepe, ribbon 
 or ribbon velvet, or any other material suitable for evening wear. 
 
 It is strictly an evening hat. 
 
 It takes one yard of material to make this hat if not made of 
 ribbon. 
 
 Three and one-half yards of ribbon will make it. 
 
 To Make a Fancy Bicycle Hat 
 
 Make and cover a Princess ring. 
 
 Lay this ring upside down on your material and cut a crown. 
 
 Make it one inch wider all around than the ring. 
 
 Mark the back and front of this crown. 
 
 Gather one row plain, close to the edge. 
 
 Turn the crown over your ring and sew it around to the out- 
 side covering of the ring. 
 
 Place back to back and front to front and have your gathers 
 even. 
 
 Do not allow the raw edge of the crown to extend below the 
 bottom of the ring. 
 
 Cut a bias piece of material eleven and one-half inches wide 
 and long enough to go twice around the ring. 
 
 Mark the center of the longest piece without a seam with 
 two pins for the front. 
 
 Mark the back with one pin. 
 
 Begin at the back. 
 
 Turn in one edge and gather one row to form a one-half inch 
 heading. 
 
 Slip this brim over the crown. 
 
 Allow the heading to extend below the bottom of the ring. 
 
 Pin back to back and front to front. 
 
 Even the gathers. 
 
 Sew the heading on with a running stitch to the outside 
 covering of the ring. 
 
 Run a row of gathers, fine, about one inch above the heading 
 gathers. 
 
 Draw to fit the upper edge of the ring. 
 
 Tie the drawing thread together and knot securely. 
 
 Gather your remaining edge, plain gathers. 
 
 Push this edge down behind your second row of gathers. 
 
 Pin all around on the outside. 
 
 Do not give this brim a twisted or bias look. 
 
 If you find that you have given it a twisted appearance, 
 remove your pins and pin over again until you get it right. 
 
 Sew your second row of gathers to the outside covering of 
 the ring. 
 
 This will also hold your third row. 
 
 12 
 
Hide your two visible rows of stitches by slip stitching fancy 
 cord, braid or French folds around each row, beginning at the 
 left side. 
 
 Make a butterfly bow and sew it on the left side. 
 
 Stick a fancy pin through the center of this bow, giving it 
 the appearance of a butterfly stuck on a pin. 
 
 Stick another fancy pin right in front. 
 
 This hat may be made of velvet, cloth, silk, satin, duck, 
 flannel, etc. 
 
 It may be trimmed with quills, small tips, aigrettes, fur 
 heads, rosettes, etc. 
 
 To Make a Little Girl's Fancy Tarn O'Shanter Hat 
 
 Cut, make and cover a Princess ring. 
 
 Cut a bias strip of material four and one-half inches wide 
 and long enough to go twice around your ring. 
 
 Join the seams and form a ring, 
 
 Mark the back with one pin. 
 
 Begin at the back and gather one side plain. 
 
 Slip this gathered row over your ring. 
 
 Pin back to back and front to front. 
 
 Even the gathers and sew to the outside covering of the ring, 
 running stitch. 
 
 Do not let the raw edge extend below the bottom of the 
 ring. 
 
 Gather the other side, very coarse gathers. 
 
 Draw tightly together and tack. 
 
 Sew a small jet or braid crown or a tiny rosette on where 
 the crown is drawn together to hide the raw edges. 
 
 Cut a bias strip of material nine inches wide and long enough 
 to go twice around the ring. 
 
 Join the seams and form a ring. 
 
 Mark the center of the longest piece without a seam with 
 two pins for the front. 
 
 Mark the back with one pin. 
 
 Turn in one side and gather one row to form a half inch 
 heading. 
 
 Slip this heading over your crown. 
 
 Pin back to back and front to front. 
 
 Even the gathers. 
 
 Sew around to the outside covering of the ring, running 
 stitch. 
 
 Allow the heading to extend below the bottom of the ring. 
 
 Put one row of gathers, fine, about one inch above the heading 
 
 row. 
 
 Draw to fit the upper edge of the ring. 
 
 Tie the gathering threads together and knot securely. 
 
 Gather the remaining raw edge, plain. 
 
 Push it down behind your second row of gathers. 
 
 Pin all around on the outside. 
 
 13 
 
Do not get this brim twisted in any way. 
 
 If you find that you have given it a twisted or bias look, 
 remove your pins and pin over again until you have it right. 
 
 Sew around to the outside covering of the ring, running 
 stitch. 
 
 Sew trimming around with invisible stitches to hide your 
 two visible rows of gathers. 
 
 Passementerie, fancy braid, fur trimming, silk cord, etc., 
 may be used. 
 
 Begin and end your trimming at the left side. 
 
 Trim with standing quills or a small ostrich tip and a rosette 
 to hide the ends of your standing trimming. 
 
 It takes one yard of material to make this hat. 
 
 Velvet, silk, cloth, duck, flannel, etc., may be used. 
 
 To Cut and Make a Shirred Hat 
 
 Measure with a tape line, from the center of your top crown, 
 down over the outside side crown, over the widest part of your 
 top brim, over the facing, and over the inside side crown, up the 
 inner edge of the top crown. 
 
 Cut a piece of your material as wide as the measure you 
 have taken and long enough to go twice around the outside edge 
 of the brim. 
 
 Do not stretch your material while measuring. 
 
 Join the seams and form a ring. 
 
 (If your material is very thin, like chiffon or net, let your 
 strip be long enough to go three times around the outside brim 
 edge; if velvet, one and three-quarter times around the brim 
 edge. 
 
 Put the raw edges together and fold your ring double. 
 
 Mark the center of the longest piece without a seam with 
 two pins, for the front. 
 
 Mark the back with one pin. 
 
 Have your thread or silk, which must be the color of your 
 material, at least eight inches longer than the outside edge of your 
 brim. A double thread for gathering can always be had by 
 measuring eight times across the widest part of the hat. 
 
 Begin at the back and gather one row, very fine, one-half 
 inch below where you folded your material, to form a heading. 
 
 This row gathers the material double. 
 
 Open out the material and gather the next row one-fourth of 
 an inch below your first row single. 
 
 Begin at the back always. 
 
 Gather the next row one inch below the second row. 
 
 Gather the next two rows so that they will be one-sixteenth 
 of an inch apart and one-sixteenth of an inch below the third 
 row. 
 
 This will be the facing. 
 
 14 
 
Begin at the other side and gather the first row, one inch 
 below the heading row single. 
 
 Gather the next two rows so they will be one-sixteenth of 
 an inch apart and one-sixteenth of an inch below your first row. 
 
 This will go on the top brim. 
 
 Slip your material on the frame so that the little heading 
 will be on the outside edge of the brim. 
 
 (Have a casing around your outside brim wire, before you 
 put your material on the frame.) 
 
 Pin back to back and front to front. 
 
 Even the gathers of your heading and pin all around to the 
 casing around the outside brim wire of your frame. 
 
 Do not draw any but the heading thread. 
 
 Sew the heading to the casing so that the stitches will not 
 be seen. 
 
 Tie the ends of your heading thread together and knot securely. 
 
 Draw each thread on the facing separately, tie and knot. 
 
 Begin at the front and form the loose material of the facing 
 into tiny pleats, all turning the same way. 
 
 Pin each pleat to the inside side crown. 
 
 Sew around, long stitch inside. 
 
 Do not give these pleats a twisted or bias look; they should 
 run straight with the hat. 
 
 Draw, tie and knot each gathering thread separately on the 
 top brim. 
 
 Make a row of gathers, fine, to fit into the bottom of your 
 side crown groove. 
 
 Draw, tie and knot this thread. 
 
 Sew all around, short stitch on top. 
 
 Gather the raw edge of your top material. 
 
 Arrange it around the top crown so that the side crown will 
 be slightly puffed. 
 
 Sew around, long stitches on top. 
 
 Cut a bias strip of your material six inches wide and long 
 enough to go twice around the edge of your top crown. 
 
 Join the seams and form a ring. 
 
 Turn in one side and gather to form a half inch heading, very 
 coarse gathers. 
 
 Arrange the fine gathered heading around the outside edge 
 of your top crown. 
 
 Allow the heading to extend beyond the edge. 
 
 Sew around, short stitch on top. 
 
 Draw the coarse gathered heading together tightly to form 
 a rosette. 
 
 Sew to the center of the top crown. 
 
 Do not get your top crown twisted when you sew on this 
 rosette. 
 
 It takes two yards of material to make this hat. 
 
 15 
 
To Put on a Spring Binding 
 
 Cut a bias strip two and one-half inches wide and long enough 
 to go around the outside edge of your brim. 
 
 Hem one side of this strip, velvet hem. 
 
 Lay it on the facing of your hat, wrong side up. 
 
 Have the raw edge next to the outside edge of the brim. 
 
 Begin at the back and sew around, long stitch on top. 
 
 Stretch slightly (not too much) as you go along. 
 
 Spring the hemmed side of this binding up over the edge of 
 your brim and make a neat join at the back. 
 
 If this binding is not cut strictly on the bias, it will wTinkle. 
 
 If you take a very accurate measure of your brim edge, and 
 cut your binding one inch shorter than your measure, you can 
 join all of the seams, form a ring, then sew around and spring. 
 
 To Make a Rope Twist 
 
 Cut a bias strip of material five inches wide and as long as 
 you want it to be. 
 
 Hem both sides of this strip, velvet hem. 
 
 Fold so that the hems will come together. 
 
 Hold one end tightly in your left hand. 
 
 Twist with your right hand until your strip looks like a rope. 
 
 A rope twist may be made without hemming it, but it is apt 
 to show raw edges unless very skillfully twisted. 
 
 To Put on a Plain Binding 
 
 Cut a bias strip of material as wide as you want your binding 
 to be. 
 
 Not less than an inch and a half nor more than two and a 
 half inches. 
 
 Long enough to go around the outside edge of whatever you 
 are going to bind. 
 
 Lay this strip, wrong side up, on the top brim, close to the 
 edge. 
 
 Sew around, long stitch on top. 
 
 Turn it over occasionally to see if you are not getting it 
 too tight. 
 
 Turn your binding over the edge, turn in the raw edge and 
 slip stitch. 
 
 Make a neat joining at the back. 
 
 If this binding is not cut strictly on the bias, it will wrinkle. 
 
 Correct Method of Cutting Velvet on the Bias 
 
 Place the velvet with the right side, or nap, face up on the 
 table, the nap running smoothly to the right. Take the velvet 
 up by the corner, folding selvage at the right angle on the velvet 
 so that the line is straight, the folded edge will be a true bias, and 
 
 16 
 
if this rule is followed the velvet stock may be kept in good shape, 
 with no waste necessary to straighten the bias. 
 
 To Cut and Make a Plain Fold 
 
 Cut a bias strip of material one and one-fourth inches wide 
 and as long as you require it to be. 
 
 Turn in both sides of this strip so that the raw edges will 
 meet in the center, but do not lap. 
 
 Cat stitch just like you do a velvet hem. 
 
 Do not have stitches showing on the right side of the fold. 
 
 To Cut and Make a French Fold 
 
 Cut a bias strip of material as wide as you want your fold 
 to be. 
 
 Not less than one inch nor more than three inches. 
 
 As long as you require it to be. 
 
 Turn in both edges of your strip, put the turned in edges 
 together to form a fold. 
 
 Let the narrow part of this fold be one-third and the wide 
 part two-thirds of the width of the fold. 
 
 Slip stitch so that no stitches will be seen anywhere. 
 
 The side which shows the folds is the right side. 
 
 The narrow part is always the top of a French fold. 
 
 To Put on a French Fold 
 
 Sew a wire to that part of your hat where you want the fold 
 to be. 
 
 Slip stitch it on, just above the wire. 
 
 The fold must cover the wire. 
 
 Stretch as you sew. 
 
 It is not necessary to make this fold before you put it on. 
 
 It can be made and put on at the same time. 
 
 To Cut, Make and Put on a Plain Tarn 
 O'Shanter Crown 
 
 Fold one-half of a newspaper in half, then in quarters, then 
 in eighths. 
 
 Measure from the point up eight inches on one side and mark 
 with a pin. 
 
 Measure from the point up eight inches on other side and 
 mark with a pin. 
 
 Cut across where the pins are. 
 
 Unfold and you will have a circle sixteen inches in diameter. 
 
 Pin this circle on your material and cut. 
 
 Mark the back and front. 
 
 Begin at the back and gather around one row plain. 
 
 17 
 
Slip this crown over your hat crown, place back to back and 
 front to front. 
 
 Even the gathers and sew, long stitch on top. 
 
 Cut a bias strip of your material three inches wide and long 
 enough to go around your side crown. 
 
 Make a French fold of this strip, tack one end of it to the 
 left side. 
 
 See that you have the folded side outside and the narrow 
 part of the fold on top. 
 
 Stretch tightly around your side crown. 
 
 Carefully cover all raw edges. 
 
 Lap half an inch over your first tack and tack again. 
 
 If you have a very low crowned hat, and want your Tarn to 
 stand high, run a second row of gathers even with the edge of 
 your top crown. 
 
 Draw to fit, tie your gathering thread and knot securely. 
 
 To Make a Fancy Tain O'Shanter Crown 
 
 Cut your material the same as for a plain Tam O'Shanter 
 crown. 
 
 Fold your crown in half and run a tuck one-fourth of an 
 inch wide all the way across. 
 
 After you have made one tuck, fold your crown for another 
 tuck one-half inch from your first tuck. 
 
 Run the second tuck. 
 
 Fold your crown again for a third tuck one-half of an inch 
 from your second tuck. 
 
 Run the third tuck. 
 
 Do not put back stitches into your tucks, as they will have 
 to be drawn after you have put wires in. 
 
 Cut off three pieces of wire, long enough to go over the top 
 crown and both sides of your side crown and half an inch over. 
 
 Push one wire through each tuck. 
 
 Bend up a little hook on each end of each wire and draw the 
 tuck threads to fit the wires. 
 
 Put a plain row of gathers around the outside edge of the 
 Tam. 
 
 Slip it over your hat crown. 
 Arrange it so that the widest part of the Tam will be on the 
 left side. 
 
 The wires must be lengthwise of the crown. 
 
 Draw your last gathering thread to fit the bottom of your 
 side crown. 
 
 Even the gathers and sew around, long stitch on top. 
 
 Cut a bias strip of your material five inches wide and long 
 enough to go around the side crown. 
 
 Hem both sides, velvet hem. 
 
 Fold so that the hemmed sides will come together. 
 
 Hold one end tightly in your left hand. 
 
 Twist with your right hand until your strip looks like a rope. 
 
Tack to the left side, stretch tightly around, keeping it twisted 
 and fasten the other end. 
 
 Hide all raw edges with this rope twist. 
 
 To Put a Puff on a Hat 
 
 Cut a bias strip of material as wide as you want your puff 
 to be. 
 
 Never less than two inches nor more than four and a half inches. 
 
 Long enough to go twice around the outside edge of your 
 brim if this material is of medium thickness, three times around 
 if your material is heavy, like velvet. 
 
 Join the seams and form a ring. 
 
 Mark the center of the longest piece without a seam with 
 two pins, for the front. 
 
 Mark the back with one pin. 
 
 Begin at the back and gather one row plain. 
 
 Place your gathered edge on the edge of your top brim, wrong 
 side up. 
 
 Pin back to back and front to front. 
 
 Even the gathers. 
 
 Sew around, long stitch on top. 
 
 Begin at the back and gather the other side of your puff, 
 plain gathers. 
 
 Turn the puff over the edge of the brim. 
 
 Turn in the gathered edge and pin all around to your facing. 
 
 Slip stitch to the facing. 
 
 Allow your puff to extend a little beyond the edge of your 
 brim, and be careful not to give it a twisted or bias look. 
 
 To Make a Plain Belvidere 
 
 Lay a Belvidere pattern on a lengthwise fold of your goods 
 and cut double. 
 
 Turn your Belvidere wrong side out. 
 
 Begin at the bottom and sew up to the point, running stitch. 
 
 Turn your Belvidere right side out. 
 
 Push a wire up to the point. 
 
 Tack this wire at the bottom, near the center. 
 
 Turn the two outside edges in until they meet in the center 
 and tack. 
 
 Turn what are now your outside edges in again until they meet 
 in the center, and tack again. 
 
 This will give you a leaf shaped standing trimming, which 
 can be used on all kinds of hats or bonnets. 
 
 Never use more than two Belvideres on any one hat or bonnet. 
 
 If you wish to combine two colors in a Belvidere, you must 
 cut one piece of each color exactly like the pattern. 
 
 19 
 
To Cover an Oval Crowned Toque 
 
 Stretch a bias piece of your material over your crown length- 
 wise and pin, then crosswise and pin. 
 
 Sew around long stitch on top. 
 
 Stretch gradually as you go, to avoid pleats. 
 
 Cut a bias strip of your material four inches wide and long 
 enough to go around your crown. 
 
 Form a point. 
 
 Pin and stretch again lengthwise. 
 
 Form another point opposite your first one. 
 
 Tack at the points. 
 
 Have the plain part of your top crown, between the folds, at 
 least three inches at the widest part (center of the crown). 
 
 To Put a Fulled Brim on a Toque 
 
 Cut a bias strip of material wide enough to cover your brim 
 inside and outside and long enough to go twice around the outside 
 edge of the brim. 
 
 Join the scams and form a ring. 
 
 Mark the center of the longest piece without a seam with 
 two pins for the front. 
 
 Mark the back with one pin. 
 
 Begin at the back and gather one row, plain. 
 
 Arrange and sew this gathered side to the inside of your brim, 
 long stitch on the gathers. 
 
 Turn this puff over the brim and pleat it into the inside 
 side crown. 
 
 Allow it to puff slightly. 
 
 Sew around long stitch on the pleats. 
 
 To Cover a Plain Round Turban 
 
 Pin a bias piece of material around the edge of the top crown 
 smoothly. 
 
 Sew around, one-fourth of an inch from the edge of the crown, 
 long stitch on top. 
 
 Trim off your material close to the stitches, but do not cut 
 the stitches. 
 
 Cut a bias strip of material wide enough to cover the entire 
 brim and long enough to go around the outside edge of the brim. 
 
 Begin at the back and sew this strip to the inside brim, long 
 stitch on top. 
 
 Turn your material over the brim. 
 
 See that it fits smoothly. 
 
 Sew to the inside of the side crown, long stitch inside. 
 
 Finish off neatly at the back. 
 
 Put on a plain side crown, a twist of velvet folds, or any 
 decoration you may desire for the side crown. 
 
 20 
 
If the brim of your turban is very much rolled, you had better 
 put on a puffed brim. 
 
 If you have a wide brimmed turban, the pattern must be cut 
 just like for a large hat and put on in the same manner. 
 
 To Make a Straw, Chenille or Ribbon Crown 
 
 Narrow flat straw braid, not more than one-fourth of an inch 
 wide. 
 
 Rope chenille, baby ribbon, or any kind of material that 
 comes not more than one-fourth of an inch wide and that has 
 both sides alike, can be used for this purpose. 
 
 A wire frame is always used. 
 
 Begin at the center of the top crown. 
 
 Slip your material through and tie in a knot. 
 
 It is best to cut your material into strings two yards long, 
 and then piece them together again where necessary. 
 
 Wind your material around each cross wire until you have 
 the top crown completely covered. 
 
 It must look like basket work. 
 
 Keep on winding around each cross wire, carefully covering 
 the wire which goes around the edge of the top crown. 
 
 Also the wires which go around the side crown. 
 
 Fasten the end securely. 
 
 This makes a nice crown for lace, net or chiffon hats. 
 
 Entire hats and bonnets may be covered in this manner. 
 
 To Make a Straw Braid Crown 
 
 Take fancy straw braid, any width, and make six pleats in 
 one end of it, deep enough so that when drawn together the scalloped 
 edge of the braid will form a circle tack. 
 
 Keep on sewing the braid around, short stitch on top. 
 
 Put in a pleat occasionally until you have enough made to 
 cover your top crown. 
 
 See that you always have the scalloped edge on top. 
 
 Sew this top crown to the top crown of your wire frame. 
 
 Sew the braid around until you have covered your side crown. 
 
 This must be done on the hat. 
 
 Let your side crown be long enough, so that the last row 
 of scallops will lie on the brim, around the bottom of the side crown. 
 
 This crown may be used for lace, chiffon or net hats or for 
 any hat having a wire crown. 
 
 Fancy felt braid, chenille or jet may be made into a crown 
 in the same manner. 
 
 To Make a Fancy Straw Braid Crown 
 
 Use fancy straw braid one and a half inches wide. 
 Make a box pleating (three pleats on each side) long enough 
 to go around the outside wire of your top crown. 
 
 21 
 
Sew this pleating to the outside wire" of your top crown, cut 
 off and fasten the end securely. 
 
 Make a top crown out of your braid. 
 
 Sew on the top crown so that the scalloped edge of this 
 crown will cover the plain edge of your pleating, cut and fasten 
 the end securely. 
 
 Begin at the back and make your side crown. 
 
 This must be done on the hat. 
 
 Let the scalloped edge of your side crown lie on the brim 
 close to the bottom of the side crown. 
 
 Cut and fasten the end. 
 
 If the crown is very high, another row of box pleats may 
 be put around the bottom of the side crown. 
 
 Draped Crowns 
 
 One of the smartest draped crowns may be made as follows: 
 Three-fourths yard of velvet on the bias, rounding ofi the 
 short corners. The top crown is plain, using one end of velvet, 
 tacking into position over crown. The beauty of draping is to 
 have the broken lines. Commence by plaiting velvet into five 
 folds. At a quarter distance around crown break into four folds, 
 and about the next quarter break into six folds. This produces more 
 graceful effects. 
 
 Avoid tight folds. Have the tacking inside. The finished 
 crown must have no marks of manipulation, but have the appear- 
 ance of being made by fairy fingers. 
 
 To Make a Fancy Crown for a Lace Hat 
 
 Sew on a jet crown, large enough to cover your top crown. 
 
 Take a piece of lace three inches and a half wide and long 
 enough to go twice around the crown. 
 
 Join the seam and form a ring. 
 
 Mark the back and front with pins. 
 
 Gather the plain edge, fine gathers. 
 
 Sew this edge to the bottom of the side crown. 
 
 Sew on a narrow jet edging to hide your stitches. 
 
 Flute the scalloped edge of your lace to the top wire of your 
 side crown. 
 
 Have the flutes standing straight. 
 
 Do not give your side crown a puffed appearance. 
 
 A gilded top crown, cream colored lace side crown and gilt 
 scale trimming around the bottom of the side crown may also 
 be used. 
 
 Use stiff lace. 
 
 To Cover a Wire 
 
 Cut a bias strip of material one inch wide. 
 Make a plain fold out of it. 
 
 22 
 
Lay your wire in the center of the fold. 
 
 Sew the edges of the fold together with very fine over and 
 over stitches. 
 
 Stretch your fold slightly as you sew. 
 
 To Put on a Covered Wire 
 
 Begin at the back, and make one up and down stitch in your 
 hat to hold the knot in your thread. 
 
 Slip your needle through the covering of your wire and make 
 an up stitch. 
 
 Make a small down stitch. 
 
 Make an up stitch one-half inch from your down stitch. 
 
 Make a small down stitch (back stitch). 
 
 Slip your needle behind your wire, and take your wire up 
 with the next stitch. Sew this way all around. 
 
 The stitches you make along your hat and the stitches you 
 made in covering your wire must all be hidden by the wire. 
 
 Use thread silk the same color as your hat to sew on the 
 wire. 
 
 Use silk thread the color of your covering when you cover 
 the wire. 
 
 To Make a Net or Chiffon Hat 
 
 Cut a straight strip of material two and a half inches wider 
 than twice the width of the widest part of your brim and long 
 enough to go three times around the outside brim wire of your 
 frame. 
 
 Join the seams and form a ring. 
 
 Fold lengthwise. 
 
 Run a gathering thread so that you will have a half inch 
 heading. 
 
 Run another gathering one-fourth of an inch below your 
 first gathering. 
 
 This will form a casing for a wire. 
 
 If the wire you are going to use is very heavy, this casing 
 will have to be wider. 
 
 Push a silk wire the color of your material through the casing 
 you have just made. 
 
 Have the wire two inches longer than your outside brim 
 wire. 
 
 Arrange your heading around your outside brim wire and 
 sew over and over^ the wrong side of the casing to the outside 
 brim wire. 
 
 Turn your material right side out and crease, and run a tuck, 
 one-fourth of an inch wide, just where the second brim wire goes 
 around. 
 
 Run one of these tucks on the top and one on the bottom 
 material. 
 
 Push a silk wire through each of these tucks. 
 
 23 
 
Turn back your material and sew over and over the wrong 
 side of both of the casings you have just made to the second brim 
 wire. 
 
 The threads with which you have run the casings should 
 be drawn after you have pushed your wires through them. 
 
 Draw up your top and bottom material and gather both 
 materials together one-fourth of an inch above the crown wire. 
 
 Draw your thread, tie and knot securely, trim ofif your surplus 
 material. 
 
 To Make the Crown 
 
 Cut a strip of material wide enough to cover the top and 
 side crown and long enough to go three times around the side crown. 
 
 Join the seams to form a ring. 
 
 Turn in one side and run a tuck one-fourth of an inch wide. 
 
 Push a wire through this tuck to fit the lower wire of the side 
 crown. 
 
 Draw your thread. 
 
 Arrange this wire around the bottom of the side crown, sew 
 around, but do not let your stitches be seen. 
 
 Turn in the other side of the crown one-fourth of an inch, 
 gather over and over, very coarse gathers. 
 
 Draw together tightly. Sew to the center of the top crown. 
 
 Push your needle up, take one gather on the point of it and 
 go down with it, fasten securely. 
 
 To Bind the Wires of a Wire Frame 
 
 Cut a bias strip of material one-half inch wide and long enough 
 to go around as many wires as you want to bind. 
 
 Make a plain fold out of this strip. 
 
 Begin at the back, let the outside brim wire lie in the center 
 of the fold and draw the edges of the fold together with very 
 fine over and over stitches. 
 
 Use silk thread the color of your binding. 
 
 Bind all of the brim wires except the crown wire. 
 
 Use velvet, satin or silk for binding. 
 
 To Wind the Wires 
 
 Cut a bias strip of material one inch wide. 
 Begin at the back, tack one end of your strip to the back 
 cross wire. 
 
 Turn in one side one-fourth of an inch. 
 
 Leave the other side raw edge. 
 
 Wind around your wire to the right. 
 
 The side that is turned in must always cover your raw edge. 
 
 Slant as you go. 
 
 Wind all of the brim wires except the crown wire. 
 
 Use velvet, satin or silk for winding. 
 
 Jet or filosel may also be used. 
 
 24 
 
To Double Wind 
 
 After you have wound all of your brim wires with velvet, 
 take silk or gilt cord or any narrow fancy braid and wind again, 
 very evenly and very much on the slant. 
 
 To Flute Lace on a Wire Frame 
 
 Bind or wind the brim wires of your frame. 
 
 Do not cover the crown wire. 
 
 Take lace as wide as the widest part of your brim and long 
 enough to go twice around the outside brim wire. 
 
 Begin at the back and pin one scallop of your lace to the 
 outside brim wire, allowing it to extend a little over the edge. 
 
 Lay the little finger of your left hand on the binding close 
 to the pin. 
 
 Let the lace come around your little finger and pin again. 
 
 This forms one flute. 
 
 Flute all around the outside brim only. 
 
 After you have pinned your flutes all around, tack where 
 you put your first pin, slip your needle through the binding over 
 the next pin and tack again. 
 
 Tack all around. 
 
 Use silk the color of your lace. 
 
 Slip stitch the ends of your lace together. 
 
 Gather your lace at the top so that your row of gathers will 
 come one-fourth of an inch below your crown wire. 
 
 Turn your hat bottom side up and sew the lace to the crown 
 wire. 
 
 Let the thread come over the wire and catch a stitch in the 
 lace, between each flute, just where you gathered. 
 
 This should draw each flute into position and keep it there. 
 
 Give your flutes a firm appearance and do not get them 
 bias. 
 
 Cut off your surplus lace close to the crown wire. 
 
 To Tuck Shirr Lace on a Wire Frame 
 
 Take a piece of lace half an inch wider than the widest part 
 of your brim and long enough to go twice around your outside 
 brim wire. 
 
 Turn in the scalloped edge one inch. 
 
 Run a very small tuck just below where you have creased 
 your turn in. 
 
 Turn up your scalloped edge again. 
 
 Draw your thread to fit your outside brim wire. 
 
 Your frame must be bound or wound before you put this 
 lace on. 
 
 Pin your lace around the outside brim wire. 
 
 Keep your tuck on top of this wire. 
 
 Even the gathers. 
 
 25 
 
Sew around in and out at each side of the tuck. 
 Hide your stitches among the gathers. 
 SHp stitch the ends of your lace together at the back. 
 Gather the top of the lace so that your row of gathers will 
 be even with the crown wire. 
 
 Turn your hat bottom side up. 
 Sew the gathers to the crown wire over and over. 
 Do not give your lace a twisted or bias look. 
 Cut off your surplus lace even with the crown. 
 
 To Put Chiffon or Net on a Wire Frame with 
 a Ruched Edge 
 
 Bind or wind your wires or sew straw braid to the wires under- 
 neath. 
 
 Cut a straight piece of chiffon or net three inches wider than 
 the widest part of your brim and long enough to go three times 
 around the outside brim wire. 
 
 Join the seams and form a ring. 
 
 Mark the center of the longest piece without a seam with two 
 pins for the front. 
 
 Mark the back with one pin. 
 
 Fold in and crease one side half an inch from the edge. 
 
 Fold again one and a half inches (three-fourths of an inch 
 when doubled). 
 
 Hold all of your creases together and gather over and over. 
 
 Only one row of gathers is used, but it holds all of the ruche. 
 
 Begin at the back and arrange this ruche on to your outside 
 brim wire. 
 
 Even the gathers and pin all around. 
 
 Sew around to the covering of your outside brim wire, so 
 that the stitches will not show. 
 
 Run a row of gathers in the top of your material, even with 
 the crown wire. 
 
 Sew to the crown wire over and over underneath. 
 
 Trim off your surplus material close to the crown wire. 
 
 To Cover a Wire Frame with Lace 
 
 Do not bind or wind the wires. 
 
 Take a piece of lace two inches wider than the widest part 
 of your brim and long enough to go twice around your outside 
 brim wire. 
 
 Begin at the back. 
 
 Hold the lace in your left hand. 
 
 Lay the outside brim wire of your frame one-half inch in 
 from the scalloped edge. 
 
 Take a stitch in your lace on one side of the wire and one 
 in the lace on the other side of the wire, over and over. 
 
 Draw the lace together so that the wire will be covered with 
 lace. 
 
 26 
 
Draw your thread as you go, so that you will have a little 
 scalloped heading ruffle extending beyond the edge of your brim. 
 
 Slip stitch your ends together. 
 
 Cover all of the brim wires, the crown wire included in the 
 same way. 
 
 If your cross wires show, draw the lace together over the 
 cross wires and tack here and there. 
 
 Lace which is nearly the same on both sides should be used. 
 
 Use silk thread the color of your lace. 
 
 Your wire frame should be as near the color of your lace as 
 you can get it. 
 
 To Cover a Wire Frame with Lace Double 
 
 Do not bind or wind the wires. 
 
 Use very sheer lace as wide as the widest part of your brim 
 and long enough to go three times around the outside brim wire. 
 
 Cut your lace so that you will have two pieces of equal length. 
 
 Lay it together so that the scallops will be even. 
 
 Have top and bottom of your lace, right side out. 
 
 Mark back and front. 
 
 Sew your seams together at the back. 
 
 Run a gathering thread one-half inch from the scalloped edge. 
 
 Open out your lace and slip your frame in. 
 
 Even your gathers and pin just back of the outside brim 
 wire. 
 
 Draw, tie and knot your gathering thread securely. 
 
 Draw up the lace on both sides of your frame and gather 
 one-fourth of an inch above the crown wire together. 
 
 Take out the pins around the edge of the brim. 
 
 Cut off your surplus lace close to the crown wire. 
 
 Use silk thread the color of your lace. 
 
 Have your wire frame as near the color of your lace as you 
 can get it. 
 
 To Cover a Wire Frame with Chiffon Plain 
 
 Cut a paper pattern the same as you do on a buckram frame. 
 
 Cut the top and bottom material the same. 
 
 Slip the top over the crown. 
 
 Turn the slashes over the crown, wire and sew up and down 
 stitch. 
 
 Cut off the points of these slashes close to your stitches. 
 
 Turn the outside edge of the top over the outside brim wire 
 and sew up and down stitch. 
 
 Cut off the raw edge close to your stitches. 
 
 Pin on the facing smoothly. 
 
 Turn the outside edge of the facing over the outside brim 
 wire and sew up and down stitch. 
 
 Cut off the raw edges close to your stitches. 
 
 27 
 
Cut out the inside ciixle, leaving an inch in the crown. 
 
 Slash this inch. 
 
 Turn the slashes over the crown wire and sew up and down 
 stitches. 
 
 Cut off the points of the slashes close to your stitches. 
 
 Sew some straw braid to the outside brim wire, so that the 
 braid will be underneath. 
 
 Sew a jet edging over the wire on top of the straw braid. 
 
 Put on a fancy straw braid crown. 
 
 Fancy figured chifTon is generally used for this kind of a 
 hat. 
 
 To Cover a Bonnet Plain 
 
 Pin a bias piece of your material around the edge of the crown. 
 
 Stretch tightly and sew around, long stitch on top. 
 
 The crown must be smoothly covered without pleats. 
 
 Cut off what material you do not need close to your stitches. 
 
 Cut a bias strip of your material wide enough to cover the 
 brim, outside and inside, and long enough to go around the front 
 edge of the bonnet. 
 
 Stretch this strip over the brim smoothly. 
 
 Sew long stitch on top. 
 
 Turn in the ends to fit the bonnet and slip stitch them. 
 
 Cover the sides of your bonnet with narrow cut folds, finishing 
 with a small French fold. 
 
 Turn under what raw edge you may have at the back of the 
 bonnet. 
 
 Line the bonnet. 
 
 To Line a Bonnet 
 
 Cut a straight strip of lining material five inches wide and 
 long enough to go around the brim. 
 
 Lay the bonnet on your lap, upside down. 
 
 Lay the lining into your bonnet wrong side up. 
 
 Let one inch of lining extend beyond the bonnet. 
 
 Sew your lining in, long over and over stitch, catching the 
 lining to the facing of the brim only. 
 
 Let an inch of lining extend at the other side. 
 
 Run a casing in your lining to hold a narrow ribbon. 
 
 Turn in the lining along the bottom of the back and slip 
 stitch across. 
 
 Thread a bodkin, with your draw ribbon run it through your 
 casing, leaving one and a half inches of casing at each side with- 
 out any ribbon. 
 
 Draw the ribbon so the lining will fit the bonnet comfortably. 
 
 Tie your ribbon in a small bow. 
 
 Cut off what ribbon you do not need and notch the ends 
 of your bow. 
 
 28 
 
To Make a Net Bonnet 
 
 Sew a piece of straw braid firmly to tlie outside edge of the 
 brim wire. 
 
 The braid must be under the wire. 
 
 Cut a straight piece of net three inches wider than your 
 bonnet is long and long enough to go three times around the out- 
 side brim wire. 
 
 Fold your net so that you will have three tucks, one on top 
 of the other. 
 
 Gather these tucks over and over. 
 
 Use only one row of gathers. 
 
 Form a ruche. 
 
 Sew this ruche around on top of your straw braid. 
 
 Slip your stitches through so that they will not show. 
 
 One inch from the ruche run another half inch tuck. 
 
 Draw to fit the brim and tack here and there to keep it in 
 position. 
 
 At the back pleat your net into fine pleats very close together. 
 
 Turn the pleats so that they meet in the center of the back. 
 
 Turn under and sew short stitch on top. 
 
 Slip your short stitches under the pleats so that they will 
 not show. 
 
 The back of this bonnet should look like a shell. 
 
 To Make a Chiffon Rose Quilling 
 
 Cut a straight strip of material five inches wide. 
 Fold it so that the raw edges will meet in the center. 
 Cat stitch like you do a plain fold. 
 Make the same as a rose quilling of lace. 
 
 To Make a Rose Quilted Facing 
 
 Cut a straight strip of material two inches wider than the 
 widest part of your brim. 
 
 Turn in one inch on one side. 
 
 Box pleat (four small pleats on a side). 
 
 Tack these pleats one inch from the edge. 
 
 Sew the pleating around the edge of the brim. 
 
 Run a row of gathers about one inch from where you tacked 
 your pleats. 
 
 Run another row half an inch from the first row. 
 
 Draw both rows and tie and knot them at the back. 
 
 Pleat the rest of the material into your side crown. 
 
 Sew around long stitch inside. 
 
 Pull down the centers of your box pleat and tack each center. 
 
 These facings should be made of chiffon, muslin de soie, net 
 or malline. 
 
 Never use heavy material. 
 
 29 
 
To Make a Shirred Horse Shoe Bonnet 
 
 Use very thin material. 
 
 Use a plain horse shoe frame. 
 
 Cut a strip of material twice as wide as your bonnet is long 
 and long enough to go three times around the front of the bonnet. 
 
 Turn in one side two and a half inches and crease. 
 
 Run a tuck one-fourth of an inch wide all along the crease, 
 leaving one inch on each side without a tuck. 
 
 Run a second tuck one inch from your first tuck. 
 
 Run a third tuck one inch from your second tuck. 
 
 Push a silk wire the color of your material through each tuck. 
 
 Let the longest wire be just long enough to form the outside 
 edge of a pretty horse shoe for the back of the bonnet. 
 
 See that this longest wire goes through the last tuck you 
 made. 
 
 The second wire should be shorter than the first. 
 
 The third should be shorter than the second. 
 
 Draw the threads with which you have run the tucks one 
 at a time. 
 
 Arrange the wires on the back of the bonnet to form a pretty 
 horse shoe, not too large, and tack the wires around the bottom 
 edge of the back. 
 
 Sew the wires to the frame, short stitch on top; hide the stitch 
 on top. 
 
 You will now have a two and a half inch ruffle at the back 
 and a long ruffle in front. 
 
 The front ruffle is to be used for a puffed brim. 
 
 Run a row of gathers in your long ruffle so that it will come 
 around the edge of the brim, using this edge for a guide. 
 
 Push this gathering string back until it touches the top wire 
 of your horse shoe. 
 
 This will form a puff which is widest on top. 
 
 Sew around short stitch on top. 
 
 Form as many of these pufifs as your material will allow, 
 using the front edge of the brim each time for a guide. 
 
 Leave enough of your material to turn under for a brim 
 facing. 
 
 Gather and sew in the brim facing, long stitch inside. 
 
 Begin at the top of your two and a half inch ruffle at the 
 back, and lay small pleats one over the other, as if you were plait- 
 ing hair. 
 
 Cut ofif what material you do not need. 
 
 Turn under the sides and back and sew long stitch inside. 
 
 Line the bonnet. 
 
 To Make a Lace Bonnet, Toque Shape 
 
 Wind the outside wire of your wire frame with either velvet 
 or satin, being careful to hide all raw edges. 
 
 30 
 
Take lace three inches wide and box pleat it (three small pleats 
 on a side). 
 
 Tack this pleating to the covered wire. 
 
 Allowing the scalloped edge to extend beyond the edge. 
 
 Tack the top edge of this pleating to the second wire, giving 
 it a fluted look. 
 
 Sew on a jet top crown, large enough to come a little over 
 the second wire. 
 
 To Put a Puff on the Edge of a Bonnet 
 
 Cut a bias strip of your material wide enough to cover the 
 brim and long enough to go twice around. 
 
 Mark the front. 
 
 Gather one side plain. 
 
 Sew on the gathered side long and short stitches to the top. 
 
 Turn over the brim and pleat (small pleats) to the inside 
 brim. 
 
 Puff it a little bit as you pleat. 
 
 Sew long stitch inside. 
 
 To Hem Velvet 
 
 Turn in your velvet half an inch and cat stitch all along. 
 On this kind of a hem the raw edge is always visible on the 
 wrong side. 
 
 To Make a Lace Wing 
 
 Cut a wing from sheer lace or fancy net according to pattern. 
 
 Wire this wing all the way around. 
 
 Lap the wire two inches. 
 
 Cut a bias strip of velvet one inch wide and long enough 
 to go around the three longest sides of the wing. 
 
 Lay this binding on, wrong side up. 
 
 Sew long and short stitch. 
 
 Turn it over the wire, turn in as for a hem and slip stitch 
 so that no stitch is visible anywhere. 
 
 See that you keep your binding of an even width on both 
 sides of your wing. 
 
 Form a pleat in the wire on the unbound edge, deep enough 
 to bring the bound edges together and tack. 
 
 To Hem Crepe or Silk Plain 
 
 Turn in your material to form a hem on the right side. 
 
 Slip stitch, allowing only a tiny stitch to come through on 
 the wrong side. 
 
 This hem is only used on material which is alike on both 
 sides. 
 
 31 
 
To Make a Binding Hem 
 
 Turn in your material one inch, run a very small tuck. 
 Turn over the tuck, turn in as for a hem and slip stitch so 
 that no stitch is visible anywhere. 
 
 To Make a Fancy Crepe Hem 
 
 Turn in your material half an inch. 
 
 Fold as if for a half inch hem. 
 
 Fold back again and form like a French fold. 
 
 Slip stitch, allowing tiny stitches to come through. 
 
 To Hem a Crepe Veil 
 
 Turn in one inch, run a very small tuck. 
 Turn the tuck down. 
 
 Form as for a French fold a hem not less than four Inches nor 
 more than nine inches deep. 
 
 Slip stitch, allowing tiny stitches to come through. 
 
 To Make a Lace Aigrette 
 
 Take lace at least four inches wide and a yard long. 
 
 Mark the half with a pin. 
 
 Turn in one raw edged end twice to form a pleat about half 
 an inch deep. 
 
 Make three more pleats one on top of the other and turn 
 another pleat under. 
 
 Make four pleats and one turn under until you get to the 
 pin. 
 
 Begin at the other end and pleat in the same manner. 
 
 Hold your pleats tightly together and wrap. This will form 
 a double aigrette. 
 
 If your lace is not stiff enough to stand nicely, run small silk 
 wires in here and there. 
 
 To Put Net or Chiffon on a Wire Frame and 
 
 Bead It 
 
 Cut a straight piece of your material twice as wide as the 
 widest part of your brim and four inches over and long enough 
 to go three times around your outside brim wire. 
 
 Join the seams and form a ring. 
 
 Fold your strip for a two tuck ruche in the center. 
 
 Gather over and over all the creases of the ruche together. 
 
 Arrange, pin and sew this ruche to the outside brim wire. 
 
 Your frame must not be bound or wound. 
 
 Gather your material together at the top one-fourth of an 
 inch above the crown wire. 
 
 Draw to fit the crown wire and fasten securely at the back. 
 
 32 
 
Begin at the back and at the second brim wire bring your 
 needle up from the bottom. 
 
 Put five beads on your needle, then stick through on the 
 opposite side of the wire. 
 
 Put five more beads on your needle and come up with slanting 
 stitch. 
 
 Put five more beads on your needle and go down with a slant- 
 ing stitch. 
 
 This will look like a beaded rope around both sides of the 
 wire. 
 
 Bead all of the wire except the head wire. 
 
 A fancy jet crown should finish this hat. 
 
 To Make Velvet Underneath Trimming 
 
 Cut a bias strip of velvet five inches wide and as long as the 
 width of your material will allow it to be. 
 
 Hem all around, points and all. 
 
 Cut off all the selvage before you hem. 
 
 Form and wrap one pointed end four inches long. 
 
 Sew on a buckle or button to hide where you just wrapped. 
 
 At the other end form and wrap another pointed end four 
 inches long. 
 
 Sew on a buckle or button to hide the wrap. 
 
 Rope twist the velvet between and tie a loose rope knot in 
 the center. 
 
 Sew underneath at the left side. 
 
 A bunch of small flowers may be sewed on to look as if the 
 knot held them. 
 
 To Drape a Veil (Plain Drape) 
 
 Make four small pleats and pin to the center of the front 
 of your bonnet with one pin. 
 
 Draping pins only must be used. 
 
 Bring each pleat down to the sides of the bonnet and pin 
 each pleat. 
 
 Allow nothing but the head of the pin to show. 
 
 Have both sides exactly alike. 
 
 Find the center of the veil at the back. 
 
 Pin this center to the back of the bonnet. 
 
 Form small pleats at each side of this center pin, turning 
 towards this pin. 
 
 Put a pin in each pleat. 
 
 To Form a Box Drape 
 
 Make a wide box pleat, four pleats on a side, in the middle 
 of your veil. 
 
 Pin each cluster of pleats with one pin to the bonnet. 
 
 33 
 
Arrange the box pleat on the back of the bonnet and put 
 a pin in each cluster of pleats. 
 
 Pleat what loose material you have at the front of the bonnet 
 into a cluster of loose pleats, turning towards the front. 
 
 Put a pin in the cluster. 
 
 Have both sides exactly alike. 
 
 More than one box pleat may be put on if desired. 
 
 It is best to take a few lessons in draping, as this part of the 
 trade must be seen to be understood. 
 
 To Form a Finger Puff Drape 
 
 Form six small pleats in the center of your veil. 
 
 Pin this cluster to the front of the bonnet with one pin. 
 
 Keep your pleats straight and pin another cluster around 
 your middle finger. 
 
 Form three finger puffs on each side of the center pin. 
 
 Keep your pleats straight and pin a cluster to each side of the 
 bottom of the bonnet. 
 
 Form the back into flutes to look like a shell. 
 
 Put a pin between each flute. 
 
 Pull out the pleats in the puffs in front. 
 
 To Drape a Veil Over the Face 
 
 Arrange the same as for a plain drape. 
 
 Allow enough veil to extend over the bonnet to cover the 
 face. 
 
 Form two finger puffs in front. 
 
 The sides are pinned the same as the plain drape. 
 
 Form the back material into small pleats and fold one pleat 
 over the other the same as you would plait hair. 
 
 Put one pin in the last pleat. 
 
 Some Business Suggestions 
 
 Buy small bills and often as you can pay for them rather 
 than go into debt. The discounts make a nice profit. 
 
 Be careful about wasting materials. Never let goods that 
 will fade hang in the sunshine. Never sweep and dust without 
 first covering all your goods. Faded and dirty goods are loss 
 and will cut down your profits. Always be pleasant. Try to 
 please your customers and invite them back. Always be honest 
 and faithful. When asked if goods will fade, say, "Yes, everything 
 will fade, get dirty and spoil if used." When you take an order 
 for a hat, be sure and put on full measure and everything you 
 agree to put on. 
 
 Don't let them measure, and say there was short length 
 put on; not as much as they paid for. 
 
 This all helps to make a successful business. 
 
 34 
 
To Make Wrapped Underneath Trimming 
 
 Cut ribbon bias on one end. 
 
 Form and wrap a pointed end four inches long. 
 
 Wrap three small loops that will be one and one-fourth inches 
 long after they are doubled. 
 
 All loops are measured after they are doubled. 
 
 Leave a three inch space. 
 
 Wrap one two inch loop, one tiny half inch loop and another 
 two inch loop. 
 
 Leave a three inch space. 
 
 Wrap three one and a quarter inch loops. 
 
 Leave four inches of ribbon for another end and cut this 
 end bias like the first end. 
 
 Arrange and sew this trimming to the facing of your hat on 
 the left side or right across the back, underneath. 
 
 To Make Chiffon Underneath Trimming 
 
 Cut a straight strip of chiffon nine inches wide and thirty- 
 six inches long. 
 
 Hem on the right side, plain crepe hem. 
 
 Form a two and a half inch loop and wrap. 
 
 Wrap three half inch loops. 
 
 Leave a three inch space. 
 
 Wrap one two inch loop, one half inch loop and another two 
 inch loop. 
 
 Leave a three inch space and wrap three half inch loops, and 
 one five inch loop. 
 
 Arrange this trimming underneath so that the long loop falls 
 on the hair. 
 
 To Sew a Silk Wire on the Edge of a Felt Hat 
 
 Use silk thread the color of your wire. 
 Begin at the back. 
 
 Take a stitch in the wire (not over the wire) and a stitch in 
 the felt and sew over and over. 
 
 Do not let your stitches show any more than you can help. 
 It requires a little tact to put these wires on nicely. 
 
 To Sew a Silk Wire on a Felt Hat not on the 
 
 Edge 
 
 Use silk thread the color of your wire. 
 Begin at the back. 
 
 Slip stitch a long stitch in the wire and a short stitch in the 
 felt. 
 
 The stitches must not come through the felt. 
 
 35 
 
To Put a Silk Wire on a Straw Hat 
 
 Use silk thread the color of your hat and sew on the same as 
 you do a covered wire. 
 
 Most Popular Ruche 
 
 The herring bone ruche is most durable, requiring more material 
 than the boa pleated ruche. 
 
 For a ruching around the crown eight yards are used, cut also 
 in three strips of equal size, double these strips twice, which gives 
 the firmness unlike the fan effect of the box pleating, then begin 
 pleating by laying a pleat on either side, each one an equal distance 
 from the other. 
 
 It is most important that these pleats are perfectly regular 
 both in the center and at either end. 
 
 Tack as you go along, holding each one securely. 
 
 Exquisite color combinations may be obtained in this ruching; 
 particularly on the hats of delicate tints, the rainbow effect is 
 most desirable, each pleating of different color, say light yellow, 
 pink and blue or violet, pink and green are the favorite combina- 
 tions for evening wear, with a paradise aigrette or ostrich tip 
 trimming. 
 
 In the new reds for the trimming of a suit hat, if it be either 
 the dahlia or geranium reds, running in the several shades from 
 light to dark, this ruching is very softening to the severe outlines 
 of the very popular sailor hat. 
 
 Combining of two colors, by running one color under the 
 other, is very effective. A hat of moleskin gray having an under- 
 brim and bandeau trimming of violet velvet had the two shades 
 in the pleatings, the violet under the gray being very much admired. 
 
 Bows 
 
 The milliner who finds it difficult to produce pleasing bows 
 should spend a great deal of time in practice making each form 
 described many times and thereby acquire the knack. With- 
 out this practice, no amount of instruction will enable one to 
 produce a handsome or stylish bow. 
 
 In trimming, the bow should be made last and always to fit 
 the place for which it is intended. Soft and pliable ribbon will 
 produce the most dazzling and beautiful effects. The stiff appear- 
 ance imparted to the bow is obtained by tightly plaiting the ribbon 
 at the bottom of the loop and wrapping several times with the 
 thread and sewing at the edge of the ribbon only. The^ ends 
 of the bow may be cut in various fanciful designs, bias or fringed. 
 Hold the ribbon in the hand, plait it very closely and tightly, 
 wrap several times with thread around the loop and sew fast at 
 the edge to keep the thread from slipping. Never stick the needle 
 through the ribbon, but sew at the edge. When as many loops 
 
 36 
 
are made as desired, make the center by twisting the ribbon similar 
 to a rope, draw it over the center of the bow tightly and fasten 
 at the back. 
 
 Bows 
 
 All standing loops should be wired before you begin to form 
 a bow. 
 
 If the ribbon, or whatever material you are going to make 
 your bow of, is very flimsy, all of it should be wired before you 
 begin to form. 
 
 To Wire Ribbon 
 
 Use flat ribbon wire. 
 
 Lay it along the center of your ribbon on the wrong side. 
 
 Long and short stitch, long stitch on the wire. 
 
 Cross from one side of the wire to the other as you make 
 your stitches. 
 
 Silk thread, the color of your ribbon, should always be used. 
 
 The short stitches which come through on the right side 
 should be very short indeed, not longer than your thread is thick. 
 
 To Make Wrapped Trimming 
 
 Form a loop, five inches long, after it is doubled. 
 
 Make two pleats, turning to the right. 
 
 Put a stitch through these pleats and wrap your thread tightly 
 three times around where your pleats are. 
 
 Tack but do not clip your thread. 
 
 Lay this loop on your lap. 
 
 Make two pleats turning to the right ten inches from where 
 you wrapped. 
 
 Double over and wrap again as close as you can to the other 
 wrap. 
 
 Tack again. 
 
 Wrap five small loops three inches long after they are doubled. 
 
 Sew the two long loops to the side crown wherever you want 
 to trim the hat. 
 
 Arrange and sew the five small loops around the standing 
 loops to form a rosette. 
 
 You cannot practice wrapped trimming too much, as it is used 
 in a variety of ways on nearly all hats and bonnets. 
 
 Any material may be wrapped. 
 
 If your material is sheer, wrapping the thread around twice 
 will be sufficient. 
 
 To Make a Wrapped Alsatian Bow 
 
 Form and wrap a loop four and a half inches long after it 
 is doubled. 
 
 Form and wrap two four inch loops. 
 
 37 
 
Form and wrap another four and a half inch loop. 
 
 Arrange your bow so that the two four inch loops will be 
 on top. 
 
 Twist a small piece of material around the center of your 
 bow to form a tight knot. 
 
 Tack the ends of this knot firmly underneath. 
 
 The Rosette Bow 
 
 Of No. 5 or 7 velvet ribbon is made of sixteen loops of equal 
 length. The first eight run around in a circle and the other eight 
 being filled in the center. No center is tied in this bow, only the 
 lower loops are fastened to the hat, leaving the upper loops free 
 to stand out and present a full rounded effect. 
 
 To Make a Wrapped Butterfly Bow 
 
 Cut one end of your ribbon bias. 
 
 Form and wrap this bias end four and a half inches long. 
 
 Form and wrap one two and three-fourth inch loop when 
 doubled. 
 
 Form and wrap a tiny one inch loop. 
 
 Form and wrap another two and three-fourth inch loop. 
 
 Cut off your ribbon four and a half inches from your last 
 wrap and bias the end, the same as your first end. 
 
 Be careful that you do not get an opposite bias. 
 
 Arrange your bow so that the ends will stand and look like 
 wings. 
 
 Press the inside loops closely together. 
 
 The central small loop will be the body of the butterfly. 
 
 To Make a Wrapped Chiffon Rosette 
 
 Cut a straight strip of chiffon nine inches wide and thirty- 
 six inches long. 
 
 Turn in the edges about one inch and crease, but do not hem. 
 
 Fold your material into eighths. 
 
 Mark each fold with a pin. 
 
 Wrap where the pins are. 
 
 This rosette should have eight even loops. 
 
 Any sheer material may be made into a rosette in the same 
 manner. 
 
 Flower Bows 
 
 They are made by clustering a number of short loops together 
 and mounting them on silk wire. Draw the end of the ribbon 
 down the wire so as to cover it, and then up another wire at the 
 top of which other loops are clustered, and down the wire again, 
 and so on until as many flowers are imitated as are desired. 
 
 These bows are usually made of delicately colored No. 16 
 or 22 ribbon, mixed with a green ribbon of the same width. 
 
 38 
 
The Bonnet Bow 
 
 It consists of two bias ends, three loops at the top one four 
 inches long, one three inches long, one two inches long and two 
 two inch loops at the bottom. 
 
 Rufifled bows of silk ribbon are made by shirring one edge of 
 the ribbon tightly, after which the ribbon is fashioned into a rosette. 
 
 A diamond bow for the front of a large hat or toque consists 
 of twelve loops. Make one five, one four and one three inch loop. 
 This forms one-fourth of the bow. Now make one three, one 
 four and one five inch loop. Then repeat as before. 
 
 The Chrysanthemum Bow 
 
 It is most frequently made of shaded ribbon in satin and is 
 also made of velvet ribbon. Take two pieces of No. 12 or 16 
 satin back velvet ribbon and wire at the edge with a satin covered 
 brace wire the same color as the velvet ribbon. This is sewed 
 on by a cross stitch made of floss of the same or of a contrasting 
 shade. Plait each strip in fine plaits near the center, fasten them 
 together by wrapping thread around and spread them apart until 
 they are in the form of an X; cut off six strips of No. 40 or 60 
 satin shaded ribbon, two strips eight inches long, two strips nine 
 inches long and two strips ten inches long. Each end must first 
 be fishtailed into five or six pointed ends cut into the ribbon two 
 inches deep, and each point resembling the petal of the flower 
 from which this bow takes its name. Plait them all in the center, 
 placing the longer strips at the back. Now place these six strips 
 at the center of the X and tie them into position very tightly 
 with a satin ribbon and fishtail these ends in the same manner 
 as those above described. 
 
 The Water Wheel Bow 
 
 It consists of ten loops of the same length, which makes a 
 round bow. Wrap each loop separately with the thread. When 
 the last two loops are drawn together, there will be a space about 
 as large as a thimble; this can be drawn around the feathers or 
 flowers that stand erect on the hat. A series of side crown bows 
 should be made of three loops of the same length, without a center, 
 and fastened to the side crown of the hat. After a sufficient num- 
 ber of bows have been made, they should be attached to the hat, 
 either six or eight being used for one hat and placed either tw^o or 
 three inches apart, rrtidway in the center of the side crown. Twist 
 a piece of straight ribbon very tight and commence with the first 
 bow; roll the ribbon around the three loop bow, which has already 
 been attached to the hat at the bottom of the bow, causing it to 
 stand out from the side of the hat. Twist your ribbon and carry 
 it on to the next bow, roll the ribbon around the bow as before 
 and so on to the next until all the bows have been thus wrapped, 
 and the end is carried to the first bow and hidden underneath the 
 first roll. 
 
 39 
 
The Alsatian Bow 
 
 It consists of four or six loops of equal length; each loop is 
 either four or six inches long, according to the place for which it 
 is intended. 
 
 The best effect is obtained by wiring the edge of the ribbon 
 with a ribbon or bonnet wire, sewed on by hand or machine, and 
 turned under in such a way that the wire is hidden. Commence 
 by plaiting the ribbon in very small plaits; wrap with a thread and 
 sew at the edge. For four inch loops, measure off eight inches; 
 plait finely the same as before, being careful that the two edges 
 of the ribbon are folded together and the plaits being on either 
 side. Wrap the thread over this half of the loop and also over 
 the first half, and sew at the edge. Measure off eight inches more 
 and make this loop the same as before, continuing the same until 
 the required number of loops are made. Twist the ribbon tightly; 
 draw it through the center of the bow, being careful that the 
 twist is wide enough to cover all the wrappings of the thread and 
 fasten at the back. 
 
 In attaching any bow to a hat or bonnet, never stick through 
 the center of the bow, but sew it on securely at the side of the 
 center twist. 
 
 To Use Folds 
 
 To use velvet or taffeta silk folds alternately with braid, 
 hem one edge of fold instead of doubling it ; this gives a very pretty 
 tailored effect, also is an excellent item on economy. 
 
 To Make Rosettes 
 
 Rosettes of velvet should be made on the bias, the ends of 
 which are sewed together. Fold in the middle, shirr and draw 
 as tightly as possible. Pull one side up to form the center and 
 tack it very lightly to the lower portion of the rosette. Light 
 material rosettes should be made on the straight, folded in the 
 center, shirred and drawn tightly. The rosette should never be 
 pulled around so that the upper edge would have the appearance 
 of a spring of the coils of an old fashioned beehive, but the two 
 sides should be drawn up to form the center. Rosettes of straight 
 material should be a yard and a half long. 
 
 Directions for Making Puff Rosettes 
 
 Take a square of velvet, measuring either twelve inches or 
 up to twenty inches square, rounding all four corners slightly. 
 With No. 4 cotton thread, gather around edge, drawing edges 
 to a small circle, fasten threads, and with three fingers draw velvet 
 from center, taking only in four or five places that the rosette 
 
 40 
 
may retain its well rounded appearance. This is especially pretty 
 used in the light shades, as light blue, pink, corn color, lavender, 
 and as trimmings in connection with grapes or roses for the large 
 drooping brims. 
 
 Tailored Rosettes 
 
 For a tailored effect, plaited rosette is made as follows: 
 For the foundation, take a round piece of buckram two inches 
 in diameter, binding edge with a narrow strip of velvet. Cut 
 two or more squares of velvet on the bias four and one-half inches 
 in width, join together and plait around edge of buckram, filling 
 in the center with another row of plaiting, finishing center with 
 an ornament. 
 
 To Make a Plain Rosette 
 
 Cut a strip of material two inches wide and one and one- 
 fourth yards long. 
 
 Turn in the ends after you have doubled the strip. 
 
 Gather close to the raw edge, fine gathers. 
 
 Draw your thread tightly and tack. 
 
 Roll a small portion and sew over and over. 
 
 Keep on rolling and sewing until you have nothing left. 
 
 To Make a Box Pleated Rosette 
 
 Cut a strip of material three inches wide and a yard and a 
 half long. 
 
 Box pleat, four pleats on a side. 
 
 Put a stitch into each cluster of pleats so that you can draw 
 the stitch. 
 
 Draw tightly and tack. 
 
 Begin with the first box pleat you made and roll and make 
 like a plain rosette. 
 
 Pull apart so that you will have four box pleats around the 
 edge and one in the center of your rosette. 
 
 To Make a Rose Rosette 
 
 Cut a strip of material three inches wide and a yard long. 
 
 Double, turn in the ends and gather fine gathers. 
 
 Do not draw your thread as tight as for a plain rosette. 
 
 Skimp the gathers and form the same as you do for a plain 
 rosette until you have a tight looking bud, then draw tightly and 
 sew around the full part of the rose. 
 
 To Make a Double Rosette 
 
 Cut two strips of material of different colors three inches 
 wide and twenty-seven inches long. 
 
 Double over each strip and turn in the ends. 
 
 41 
 
Lay one strip on top of the other and pleat all the way along. 
 
 Stick a stitch into each pleat, but have your stitches so that 
 they will draw. 
 
 Draw tight and tack. 
 
 Roll your rosette, the lightest color inside and make as you 
 do a plain rosette. 
 
 Pull the strips apart all the way round. 
 
 To Make a Hollyhock Rosette 
 
 Cut a strip of material four inches wide and twenty-four 
 inches long. 
 
 Double, turn in the ends and gather long and short. 
 
 Cut a cover from velvet to fit a small flat button. 
 
 Cover this button with the velvet. 
 
 Draw your rosette gathering thread to fit this button and 
 sew over and over. 
 
 To Make Choux 
 
 Cut a strip of material three inches wide and two yards long. 
 
 Double, turn in the ends and gather, fine gathers. 
 
 Draw tightly and tack. 
 
 Cut a round piece of buckram the size of a silver dollar. 
 
 Sew the raw edge of your rosette to the center of this buckram 
 up and down stitch. 
 
 Keep the circle in the center as small as possible. 
 
 Keep the outside edges even. 
 
 Open your turned in edge, slip stitch it around to hide all 
 the raw edges visible. 
 
 Pull up and pinch this rosette together at the top. 
 
 To Make a Lace Jabot 
 
 Take lace not less than four inches wide and half a yard 
 long. 
 
 Turn in the raw edged ends. 
 
 Form four slanting pleats in one side, slanting up and pin. 
 
 Form four slanting pleats on the other side, slanting down 
 and pin. 
 
 This should form a box pleat with slanting ends. 
 
 A double or triple jabot requires more lace. 
 
 To Make a Rose Quilling of Lace 
 
 Take double edge lace two and a half inches wide. 
 Form it into box pleats, six small pleats on a side. 
 Tack the pleats in the center. 
 Have the box pleats close together. 
 
 42 
 
To Combine Colors 
 
 1. Red paint or geranium lake and benzine will tint pink. 
 
 2. White and yellow make straw color; white, blue and black 
 make pearl gray; white, lake and vermilion make a flesh color; 
 umber, white and Venetian make drab. 
 
 3. Red and black make brown, lake and white make rose. 
 
 4. Prussian blue will produce light blue, black paint makes 
 a gray shade; burnt umber makes a tan. 
 
 5. White and green make bright green ; purple and white make 
 French white; light green and black make dark green; white and 
 green make pea green; white and emerald green make a brilliant 
 green; red and yellow make orange. 
 
 6. White and brown make chestnut; white, blue and lake 
 make purple, but purple lake may be bought, and if used will 
 make lavender; white and carmine make pink; indigo and lamp- 
 black make lead color; black and Venetian make chocolate. 
 
 7. Yellow, white and a little Venetian make buff. The 
 combinations given above are those most used by artists mixing 
 colors, but manufacturers of the tube paints have placed on the 
 market almost every shade and color you will need; nevertheless 
 it is well to know how to produce them if called upon to do so. 
 Naples yellow will give you the desired cream color, and if the 
 butter shade is wanted, you should add a very little portion of 
 the king's yellow. 
 
 Tinting 
 
 Milliners who experiment with the method of tinting here 
 explained will find themselves prepared to accomplish results 
 which would otherwise be impossible. No elaborate dyeing 
 outfit is necessary. 
 
 A pan or dish with a flat bottom is necessary to hold the 
 liquid. The size depends upon the bulk of the articles to be 
 tinted. The smaller the size of the receptacle the smaller the 
 amount of supplies will be consumed. Buy from some art supply 
 store small tubes of paint of the colors you desire. These and a 
 supply of benzine make a complete equipment. 
 
 Solid dark colors cannot be produced. Only the light shades 
 and tints can be obtained. The material should always be white 
 or cream. It is possible to refresh an article originally a light 
 tint by dipping it into a new solution of the same tint. 
 
 A word of caution. — Never have a light or fire in the room in 
 which you are using- the solution, and do not strike a match anj'- 
 where in the room, as benzine is highly inflammable. 
 
 Select the colors desired and squeeze out of the tube a small 
 amount of the paint. Pour in enough benzine to completely 
 cover the article to be tinted. Stir until the paint is entirely dis- 
 solved before putting the material into the solution. Add more 
 paint if necessary to get the desired tint. Immerse the article to 
 be tinted and shake in a draft until dry. 
 
 43 
 
Feathers 
 
 Tips, plumes or fancy feathers dipped in this solution will 
 tint beautifully. 
 
 Take them out quickly and wave them or beat them against 
 the hand until dry. 
 
 The liquid evaporates quickly, leaving the color fast and 
 does not take the curl out of the feather. Soiled white, cream 
 or light tinted feathers can be made as new ones by this method. 
 
 Flowers and Foliage 
 
 Flowers can be tinted in the same way. A deeper shade 
 may be had by immersing to the edge of the petals the flower 
 but half way in. This applies also to leaves. 
 
 The tinted article will always be lighter than the liquid. 
 
 The tinting of flowers should be done as soon as the liquid 
 is prepared. If you should chance to have flowers in pink, you 
 can make them lavender by dipping in purple lake and benzine. 
 Light blue flowers may be turned to lavender by dipping in red 
 paint and benzine. 
 
 Veilings 
 
 Veilings, crepes, light weight silk and laces are all tinted in 
 the same way; that is, first immersed in the benzine and then 
 shaken in the air. Shades can be matched in this way, and the 
 process found a great convenience. 
 
 When the velvets are tinted, they are removed from the 
 benzine, which is allowed to drip from them and fanned in the 
 air until dry. 
 
 Combinations of Colors 
 
 Pale blue combines with white, cream black, dark green, 
 rose pink, golden and seal brown, gray, yellow, silver and gold. 
 White combines with all colors with a very few exceptions, and 
 black does the same. White and black, white and green, white 
 and navy blue, white and yellow and white and gray being excep- 
 tionally good. Black and light green, old rose, yellow and pink 
 are good combinations. Pink combined with dark green, royal 
 purple, gray, deep wine, boreal, navy blue and brown, produces 
 very beautiful effects for carriage wear. Green combines with 
 almost all colors, and is particularly effective with white, yellow, 
 brown and old rose. Old rose combines splendidly with black, 
 green and royal purple. Combinations that are fashionable are 
 lavender and purple, lavender and black, navy blue and yellow, 
 pink and gobelin blue, and tan and royal purple. Other com- 
 binations are green, yellow and lavender; green, pale blue and 
 old rose; black and orange; terra cotta and primrose; old rose and 
 straw color; mountain purple and pink; tan, green and black; dark 
 
 44 
 
and light green; green and brown, and brown with either straw, 
 cream or tan. Gold, silver and copper combine with all colors, 
 and their appearance is greatly enhanced by their use. 
 
 White and Black 
 
 Some understanding of the relative positions that are occupied 
 by black and white is necessary, as a proper knowledge for the 
 uses of which they are to be employed. Animals of the frigid 
 zone are white, which led scientists to believe that white is a 
 warm color. Dr. Franklin placed cloths on snow and the black 
 sank the deepest, while the white was not at all affected by the 
 rays of the sun. This is prima facie evidence that white should 
 be worn in the summer, as the heat penetrates black to a greater 
 extent. Also, the fact that white reflects the rays of the sun 
 makes it desirable to wear white hats in the hottest months. It 
 has also been discovered that white retains heat and black throws 
 it off quite rapidly, but this is more applicable to the skin than it 
 is to materials of these same colors. 
 
 Colors 
 
 It is well known that red and rose red cannot be used for 
 the rosiest complexions, but dark red may be worn without deterio- 
 rating from the beauty or brightening the color of the complexion. 
 Green is good for a delicate complexion. Yellow imparts a shade 
 of violet to the skin and commends itself to the brunette. Violet 
 shades throw a greenish cast upon the face and for that reason 
 are becoming to but very few. Orange is entirely too brilliant. 
 White is best for summer use, while black alters the tones of other 
 colors, which makes it best for ordinary purposes. By constantly 
 looking at red, the shades grow dimmer, and the last of several 
 hats tried on never appears as bright as the first one. If yellow 
 is shown first, it changes almost all other colors. As black dimin- 
 ishes the size, it is a desirable hat to place upon a woman with a 
 large face. A hat of almost any proportion or size may thus 
 be used, which for all intents and purposes will appear much 
 smaller. 
 
 Colors for a Brunette 
 
 Yellow is the very best shade that a brunette can wear. Light 
 shades of blue, pink and maroon are also becoming. If the brunette 
 be of gipsy type with color bright red looks well. Yellow, brown 
 or navy blue are th6 best colors for a street gown. If a gown of 
 brown or blue is worn, a veil to match would look suitable. Other- 
 wise wear a black veil of plain mesh. 
 
 Rules for the Blonde Woman 
 
 The word "complexion" itself means complex or composed 
 of many elements. In referring to a complexion, what is meant 
 
 45 
 
generally is the skin only. The skin's texture, coloring and 
 firmness are noted in appraising a complexion. 
 
 But, in reality, the color of the hair and of the eyes must also 
 be accounted for in estimating any complexion. It is indeed 
 a complex matter, depending on many elements for perfection. 
 
 A fair woman, with a Saxon type of coloring, is descended 
 from the old North races, the Angles, Scandinavians or Saxons 
 predominating in her ancestry. 
 
 As a rule, her nature is less passionate than that of the dark 
 haired people. She is less romantic and less highly colored in 
 nature as in complexion, and she seldom runs to absurd extremes. 
 
 The planet said to rule fair people is Venus, once supposed 
 to bestow a liking for blue in all its shades on those born under 
 its influence. 
 
 But, excepting when the fair woman is in her first youth and 
 has a fine skin, she should not wear too much pale blue. 
 
 If she does, it will emphasize the fading hues of her once fair 
 skin and give her a greenish look by bringing out the latent yellows 
 in it, for blue and yellow when mixed give the impression of 
 green. 
 
 But the blonde may wear dark blues or purples with good 
 effect, especially if her eyes are also blue. Dark blue will enhance 
 the blue of the eyes, whereas pale blue would cause them to look 
 faded. 
 
 If the blonde's eyes are gray, then any shade of gray can 
 be worn, and this color will harmonize well with fair hair. 
 
 In the street, a coat or gown the color of the hair is always 
 in good taste; therefore, a light brown or fawn coat will look well 
 on a fair woman. 
 
 At nearer view in the home where the blonde is in close con- 
 tact with her companions, any color matching the hue of the eyes 
 will be striking and in good taste. Under strong gaslight, how- 
 ever, or in electric glare, it is the color of skin and hair again, 
 rather than of eyes, that must be studied in gown choosing. 
 
 If a blonde's eyes are blue-gray, then dark blue will bring 
 out the hue of Venus and overpower the gray-blue; while, in like 
 manner, a gray note in the dress will put out the blue color and 
 make the eyes look gray. They will look light gray or drak gray 
 according to the color of the dress. 
 
 Occasionally, by a cross current of Southern blood in the 
 ancestry, a blonde woman with fair or golden hair and pale skin 
 will have dark eyes. This is a beautiful contrast. When this is 
 so, a black gown will emphasize the contrast, bringing out the 
 colors of hair and eyes both. If the cheeks of a blonde woman 
 are rose flushed, she may wear pink with advantage. 
 
 Recipes 
 
 The best polish for black, dark or light straw hats, with the 
 exception of white, is made by dissolving two ounces of gum shellac 
 in one pint of alcohol. 
 
 46 
 
A polish for white or colored straw hats : 
 
 Put one ounce of either brown or white shellac in one quart 
 of wood alcohol and let it dissolve. Brush the hat thoroughly 
 and apply the above solution with a small stiff brush. 
 
 For renewing dark colored chips, use vaseline. This brightens 
 them up, toughens the straw, renders them pliable, and they 
 are not so easily broken by handling. 
 
 Liquid polish for leghorns : 
 
 One ounce of alcohol, one ounce of Venice resin. The polish 
 should be about as thick as cream and applied with a soft brush. 
 
 Clean white leghorn hats with alcohol. Apply with a sponge 
 or small clean rag. 
 
 For polishing black hats or changing light colored soft braids 
 to black, dissolve four ounces of shellac in alcohol. Enough 
 alcohol should be used to merely cover the shellac. Shake fre- 
 quently. When this is dissolved and no sediment remains at the 
 bottom, put in a piece of camphor half as large as a hen's egg and 
 in four hours stir in half an ounce of lampblack. If this is too 
 thick, thin it with alcohol. Apply with a soft bristle brush. The 
 hat should be thoroughly cleaned before using the above mixture. 
 
 To raise the nap of a beaver hat, take a small switch and 
 beat it until the fur is fully aroused. 
 
 To remove paint from silk goods, saturate the goods with 
 equal parts of turpentine and ammonia, then rub in soap suds 
 and let dry between blotting paper under a heavy weight. 
 
 Miscellaneous 
 
 To clean tarnished gold and silver, pins, lace or cloth: 
 
 Dampen a tooth brush, dip it in sand and scour until the 
 tarnish is rubbed off and the pin becomes bright. Pumice stone 
 is better, but sand is cheaper, and answers the purpose very well. 
 
 To clean gold, silver or copper crowns or lace: 
 
 Wash them with rose benzine or strong vinegar mixed with 
 salt. 
 
 By using the following preparation for cleaning kid gloves, 
 ribbons and laces, you can keep them in the pink of perfection: 
 
 Two quarts of deodorized benzine, two drams of sulphur 
 ether, two drams of chloroform and four drams of alcohol. Pour 
 the fluid in a bowl and wash as if in water; rinse in a fresh supply. 
 
 To Remove Axle Grease Stain 
 
 On the wrong side of the goods rub into the spot as much 
 powdered French chalk as it will hold. Leave all night. Then lay 
 soft blotting paper over the chalk and press with a warm iron. 
 Brush out the chalk and the spot should have disappeared. If 
 a trace remains on the right side of the goods, sponge with house- 
 hold ammonia. 
 
 47 
 
Gold and Silver Trimmings 
 
 Gold and silver trimmings are cleaned with alcohol and 
 afterwards burnished with chamois. 
 
 To Clean Braids 
 
 Delicate silk braids must be cleaned in gasolene. Hair and 
 tuscan braids can be cleaned with Ivory soap and water only, 
 and stains taken out with oxalic acid. 
 
 Braids of dark fancy straws frequently have the high point 
 of the braid touched up with gold or silver. For this purpose the 
 ready prepared gilt, which can be purchased in any drug store, 
 should be used. 
 
 To smooth flatirons: The constant use of flatirons over damp 
 cloths and sticky finished hat brims has a tendency to roughen 
 and rust them. To overcome this and smooth them, run your 
 iron over salt or parafhne. 
 
 Colors that have been destroyed by stains can be restored by 
 the use of sal-volatile or hartshorn. 
 
 Cleaning Lace Goods 
 
 Fold the laces, stretch them carefully in any kind of muslin 
 cloth, which you baste all around to prevent the laces from getting 
 twisted or mixed up. They are thus to be dipped in beer and left to 
 soak some little while, after which, when they will be found half 
 dry, they must be ironed between muslin cloths, so that the iron 
 does not give them a glossy look, which would be the case if it 
 came in contact with the lace. The beer will prove a sufficient 
 sizing. 
 
 For washing fine laces, allow the articles to lie in borax water 
 for twenty-four hours, then squeeze (not rub) through several 
 waters. 
 
 To Clean White Lace 
 
 Wind the lace about a glass bottle and soak it in warm soap 
 suds made from castile coap. Squeeze the suds out and immerse 
 in another. Rinse in warm water. The lace may be ironed 
 under a cloth or pinned to a sheet to dry. 
 
 Lace may also be cleaned by laying it on a paper, covering 
 it with magnesia, and this with another paper, and allowing it 
 to remain for several days. It should be placed under a heavy 
 pressure. When the powder is shaken out, it will remove the 
 dirt. 
 
 To Dye Lace 
 
 Soiled lace can be dry dyed by using yellow ocher and rice 
 flour, or any other white powder with the yellow. 
 
 Place the lace and powder in a box and shake thoroughly. 
 
 After the dust has settled in the box, take lace out and dust 
 it well. White braids and hats can be treated in the same way. 
 
 48 
 
Silk Laces 
 
 Silk laces and others that will not stand washing may be 
 cleaned in this way. They must be pulled into shape while dry- 
 ing in the open air, and afterwards pressed under muslin on the 
 wrong side. 
 
 Washable Laces 
 
 Washable laces are put in good suds of Ivory soap in a glass 
 jar, and shaken frequently, changing the water several times; 
 finally rinse and pin out carefully right side up on a very thickly 
 covered board. When nearly dry, unpin and turn and press 
 out the design with the round end of an orange stick or ivory 
 penholder. 
 
 If the lace needs a little stiffening, dissolve a little gum arabic 
 and mix with the rinsing water. If desired ecru, rinse in tea or 
 coffee according to the shade wanted, and in saffron tea for lemon 
 shade. For other shades and colors. Diamond dyes are the best. 
 
 To Steam Velvet 
 
 Fold a cloth into three or four thicknesses. 
 Wet it thoroughly. 
 
 Lay it on the back of your range where it is not too hot. 
 Lay your velvet on this cloth right side up. 
 Brush the nap the right way with a coarse brush while the 
 steam is coming through it. 
 
 To Bleach a Leghorn Hat 
 
 Put a lump of sulphur on an old tin pie plate. 
 
 Drive an old broomstick into the ground in your yard. 
 
 Fasten your hat to the top of the broomstick so that it will 
 not fall off. 
 
 Place the sulphur under the hat and light it. The sulphur 
 plate must be on the ground. 
 
 Turn a clean flour barrel over all. 
 
 See that your broomstick is not too long, as it will hold up 
 the barrel from the ground if it is. 
 
 To Press Ribbon that has been Used 
 
 Lay your ribbon between layers of wet tissue paper and 
 press with a warm iron until your tissue paper is perfectly dry. 
 
 Do not have your iron too hot. 
 
 To stiffen your ribbon slightly, wet the tissue paper with 
 water into which you have put a little vinegar and sugar. 
 
 To Wash Silk Ribbon 
 
 Take a pint of lukewarm water, and put a tablespoonful 
 of ammonia and a tablespoonful of white soft soap into it. 
 
 49 
 
Put ribbon into this and let it soak about ten minutes. 
 
 Rub with the hands only. 
 
 Rinse several times with clear warm water. 
 
 Hang it in a shady place to dry. 
 
 Press the same as ribbon that has been used. 
 
 Treating Crepe 
 
 Crepe can be refinished, but good quality only. Faded and 
 shabby crepe can be restored to its original appearance and fresh- 
 ness, and one process imparts two additional qualities to it, by 
 removing the peculiar crepe odor, so disagreeable to many and 
 also making it impervious to dampness. It will be refinished in 
 two forms only, by the yard and in veils. The cost is about one 
 dollar per square yard. 
 
 Steaming Crepe 
 
 To redress crepe, steam it over a hot iron as you would velvet 
 or silk, being careful to pull it evenly in all directions. 
 
 To remove stains from silk crepes or grenadines, boil a hand- 
 ful of fig leaves in a quart of water until it is reduced to one pint. 
 Rub the stains with a sponge dipped into this liquid. 
 
 To Steam Crepe 
 
 Get all the dust and dirt out first. 
 
 Lay it over any vessel containing boiling water and let steam 
 go nicely through it. 
 
 To Mirroir Velvet 
 
 Pin your velvet to an ironing board so that it will be perfectly 
 smooth, right side up. 
 
 Wet a cloth and lay it over your velvet. 
 
 Take a hot iron and run it hastily over your wet cloth, but 
 do not wrinkle this wet cloth in any way. 
 
 Remove your cloth rapidly and press your velvet with a 
 warm iron, making the nap go the right way. 
 
 Plush Goods 
 
 To wash silk plush caps, bands for hats and plush coats, 
 first get all the dust out of it with a switch. Spread it on a board 
 or block and sponge every inch of it with warm rainwater and 
 a little ammonia. Take a dry sponge and rub it until it is per- 
 fectly dry and brush with a soft brush. The result will surprise 
 you,} for the plush will look like new. Don't be afraid to try it, 
 as it has been tested. 
 
 50 
 
Coffee Stains 
 
 Coffee stains, even when there is cream in the coffee, can 
 be removed from the most delicate silk or woolen fabrics by brush- 
 ing the spots with pure glycerin. Rinse in lukewarm water and 
 press on the wrong side until quite dry. The glycerin absorbs 
 both the coloring matter and the grease. 
 
 To Clean Wings 
 
 Wings, birds and breasts can be cleaned with corn meal, but 
 must be very carefully handled or the feathers will clog, gasolene 
 is good in some cases, but as this will dissolve glue, very few "made" 
 pieces can be treated in this way. 
 
 Cleaning Hats 
 
 For cleaning white Milan straws, wash them thoroughly 
 with warm water and soap, using more lather than water. Rinse 
 well, rub over the hat lemon juice and set it in the sun to dry. 
 Press into the original shape by ironing it beneath a damp white 
 cloth. As these hats are easily scorched, great care should be 
 taken not to have the iron too hot. 
 
 For cleaning white or colored felts, rub them well with white 
 corn meal. Dust the white felt with magnesia or powdered starch. 
 
 Use lac sulphuris for powdering white straw and leghorns. 
 Rub on with a cloth and remove with a stiff brush. 
 
 To color white straw a rich golden yellow, immerse the hat 
 for a few moments in a strong solution of soda and water; shake 
 and press until dry. 
 
 To revarnish black straw hats, cut up some black sealing 
 wax, pour on enough methylated spirit to dissolve it; mix well 
 and apply with a stiff brush. 
 
 The following is a very fair bleach for straws and leghorns; 
 but while it is successfully used on some hats, it fails to bleach 
 others: One-half ounce salts of sorrel, one-fourth ounce of sugar 
 of lead, one grain salts of tartar, dissolve in four quarts of water 
 and apply with a brush or cloth and dry in the sun. 
 
 A method of bleaching which has been long and successfully 
 used as follows: Prepare a wooden box with a tight cover and 
 have a rack made of strips crossing the box about fifteen or eighteen 
 inches from the bottom. Supports or upright pegs should be 
 used on which to place the hats to hold the brims above the strips. 
 Wash the straw with clean soap suds, rinse and dry. Place the 
 hat in the box over the fumes of brimstone, which is caused to 
 smoke by placing a hot iron block in the center of the sulphur. 
 Cover then with a thin layer of damp corn meal. Put cover 
 on tight and leave until bleached. Place each hat on the block 
 or ironing board, cover with a white cloth and press with a hot 
 iron. 
 
 51 
 
Steaming Hats, etc. 
 
 Steam will do much in shaping over hats, and it will also 
 restore the bright clean look which has been destroyed by dust. 
 
 Lay a wet cloth on a hot iron, and hold the hat down over 
 the steam, and then take your hand and press the hat into shape. 
 It dries immediately, and a great deal can be done with a little 
 practice. 
 
 Flowers and foliage can be freshened, also, by shaking over 
 the steam and laying the leaves on the cloth, and with the fingers 
 smooth them out. 
 
 To Clean a White Felt Hat 
 
 Cover a soiled white felt hat with flour and let it remain 
 in that condition over night. Unless the case is an extreme one, 
 the grime will go with the flour when it is brushed off the next 
 morning. 
 
 Cleaning a White Velours Hat 
 
 Make a mixture of French chalk and powdered magnesia and 
 rub well into the felt. Put the hat away for several days in a 
 dark place, and then brush it thoroughly. If the hat is not per- 
 fectly clean, repeat the process. 
 
 To Renovate Hats 
 
 White hats may be stained to an attractive yellow by immersing 
 in a strong solution of soda and water for a few moments. Wipe 
 the hat and press under cloth till dry. 
 
 Leghorn hats may be cleaned with alcohol. Apply with a 
 soft rag. 
 
 To Press Hats 
 
 If a bowl or mushroom is desired, the hat must be held up 
 and a bit of the brim pressed at a time till all is done; in a bowl 
 shape the movement is sideways from the crown outward, but 
 in a flat mushroom the brim is pressed with point of iron towards 
 the crown. 
 
 To Freshen Black Moire Ribbon 
 
 Brush the ribbon thoroughly and then sponge it with a solu- 
 tion made of a quart of coffee and a teaspoonful of ammonia. 
 Roll the ribbon over a bottle, and, while still damp, press it on 
 the wrong side with a hot iron over a white muslin cloth. 
 
 52 
 
To Whiten Feathers 
 
 To render feathers white, immerse them for a short time in 
 naphtha or benzine. Rinse in a second dish of the same and dry 
 in the open air. Then bleach by exposing in a box to the vapor 
 of burning sulphur in a moist atmosphere. 
 
 To Clean White Plume 
 
 Coil the feather so as to get it within a half gallon glass jar. 
 Pour in a quart of gasolene, screw on the cover and shake gently 
 back and forth about a dozen times. Take out the feather, shake 
 well and put in an airy place to dispel the smell of gasolene. This 
 process will not take the curl out of the feather. To curl the 
 feather draw each strand of the feather gently across a knife. 
 
 White and Light Colored Feathers 
 
 White and light colored ostrich feathers and aigrettes can 
 be cleaned in gasolene, as also Paradise plumes, and when clean, 
 may be given a second bath with a little tube oil color mixed 
 to tint them to any desired shade; or the ends only may be tinted 
 or shaded. Hang in the air to dry, and remember when using 
 gasolene to have no lighted fire or gas anywhere near. When 
 perfectly dry, they can be curled as desired. 
 
 If white feathers are very dirty, Ivory soap should be shredded 
 and dissolved in a little hot water and the suds well mixed with 
 the gasolene. In this case it is best to leave the feathers in the 
 bath a day or so, shaking thoroughly at intervals, and lastly 
 rinsing in clean gasolene. 
 
 The Art of Keeping Clothes Clean 
 
 The reign of the lingerie waist, too fragile and filmy to stand 
 frequent incursions to the wash tub, lends value to the art of 
 taking out a spot here and there. A Parisian who makes a science 
 of keeping her belongings in order pounces upon a garment having 
 a defacing spot the instant it is taken off and goes at it with a 
 sponge and soapy water. She first wads up a bath towel and slips 
 it under the spot, holding it in the hand as you would a darning 
 gourd, and then applies the wet sponge or piece of soapy flannel 
 in a succession of dabs. Afterward it is "dabbed" partly dry 
 with a dry towel. With the wad of toweling under, the water 
 does not spread over the stuff, but soaks into the towel instead. 
 The collars of lace blouses can be cleaned quickly in this way and 
 the lace yokes of frocks that are not themselves of the washing 
 order. With the useful wad, the water will not touch the most 
 delicate silk or cloth. 
 
 Not everybody knows that chiffon washes, and still fewer 
 how splendidly it dyes. This same Parisian had a collection of 
 
 53 
 
little dye bags, which are as yet unfortunately only to be bought 
 in Europe, and which are prepared for just such uses. For faded 
 chiffons, these are put in the rinsing water and the tiniest little 
 squeeze will restore them to the old depth of color. Boas of 
 chiffon and also those of marabout and coque feathers can be 
 done in this way. 
 
 First they should be washed in a lather. They will come 
 out bedraggled and unpromising, but soon will shake dry in the 
 wind or over a gentle warmth. They come out beautifully fluffy 
 and clean. Tepid water should be used, and drying generally 
 is successful by hanging in the air. 
 
 54 
 
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