P 197 ■ 1432 Copy i f GBOROa WATTERSON MR. SMITH'S DESCRIPTION OF WASHINGTON National Intellirencer, Au gus t 26, 1847 In the brief but interesting description of Washington in 1800 by ?r. John Cotton Smith, published in the Intelligencer of Friday last, I- find that he has fallen into one or two errors, which it may be proper to correct. "The surface of the city generally", he observes, "being covered with scrub-oak bushes on the higher grounds and on the marshy soil either trees ot some sort of shrubbery". The scrub-oak was not grown in this District. The trees which covered the surface of the city at the period it was laid out, consisted of the oak, hickory, walnut, pine, chestnut, &c. of the largest growth, and what Mr. SmithAwas the undergrowth which had been left after the forests had been felled. By an ggreement entered into between the original proprietors and the commissioners of the city, all the wood on the lands of the former was to be their property; but if any should be de- sired by the President of the United States, or left standing, it was to be paid for by the Governnent, at a just and reasonable valuation, exclusive of the amount paid for the lands. It is much to be renretted that the native forest trees which originally covered a large portion of the surface of our city, had not been per- mitted to remain where the avenues run or the public reservations vere laid off. These now would have been a beautiful ornament to the city; but, as no proposition of this sort was made to the proprietors, and as they had received no compensation for the lands occupied by the avenues, streets and open spaces, and had riven about the half of the ground formed into squares and lots, they reserved to themselves the wood with which the land was covered, and either consumed it or disposed of it to their own advantage. Before the period spoken of ly Mr. Smith the trees had been filled, ith the exception of a few in the Capitol square and otherp laces, all of .\A , iiJ'WC . , ■ ■ , ■ .-• ■ - 2 - which have now disappeared. Of the condition of our metropolis, some years prior to the period referred to, I transcribe a brief extract from a work I am now/ pre- paring on the city: "As my eye glanced upon the imposing and massive structure near me, and ranged over the extended landscape reposing in the softness of moon- light, my mind insensibly reverted to the condition of our metropolis, when, as a woodland scene, it first burst upon my boyish eye. I remembered distinctly the windings of the picturesque stream called the Tiber, gliding alonr between magnificent oaks, and underwood, and expanding almost to the magnitude of a river as it flowed into the broad Potomac. This stream was once called Goose Greek and, in sprinr and autumn, overspread with wild ducks, and often penetrated as far as the present Rail- road depot by multitudes of shad, herrings, pike, perch, Sec. It is said to have darived its classical name from a European who owned a farm near the Capitofc, and whose name was Pope. But it is called the Tiber in deeds nearly two centuries old. ' He called his fam Rome, the stream at the bottom of it the Tiber, and the hill above Capitol Hill, on which he is said to have predicted, many years before the event took place, that a magnificent edifice would be erected which would be called the Capitol". "Instead of recognizing", says Mr. Smith, "the avenues and streets por- trayed on the plan of the city, not one was visible, unless we except a road with two buildings on each side of it, called the New Jersey avenue". This is an error; long before 1800 the leading avenues were formed by cutting down the trees in the woods through which they passed, and could be dis- tinctly seen from the Capitol. In 1793, however, the road leading from the President's iouse (called by the Commissioner the President's Palace) to the Capitol, passed near the present General Post Office building, about two souares north of the Avenue, and the Tiber was crossed by a rude bridge formed of a single log, and a little above by a few large stones, which, when the water was low, rendered - 3 - the creek fordable. Tt was alonr this road that the procession, headed by General ffasnington passed to lay the corner-stone of the Capitol; and, though the ■iwlliiil ■ composing this procession were not great, it took thera sone time to cross the lop bridge of which I have spoken. The ceremony was concluded with a barbecue riven In honor of the occasion, not far from the spot where he afterwards erected two fine brick buildings, which were destroyed by the British army, under General Ross, durinp the last war. The spring from which the water was obtained was at the bottom of the hill on which the houses referred to stood, and is still there, end labitus et labitur in onme volubili.3 aevum. The public road leading into fontgomery county wound round the hill and passed within a few yards of this spring which was sheltered by large oak trees, some of which were standing as 1 te as the year 1815. " r. J'.ith is correct in saying that the only two really comforaable habitations in all respects, I f within the bounds of the city at that tirie, were those of Daniel (not Dudley) Carroll Nott*n Young, and Hott*n Young, two of the original proprietors. The old doraicil of Vr. Carroll, in consequence of its being on part of a street, was pulled down by 'ajor L*Infant, the engineer, and, as it would seen, without th>*f order of the Commissioners, who subsequently dismissed him for it, and another more spacious one, built in its stead, which is now occupied by t)yf worthy and venerable citizen. At the commencement of the city the only brick building on the banks of the Potomac was the one owned, and occupied by v 'r. Notjafg Young. It was built of brick imported from ilm-land about fifty years before, was beautifully situated, and the grounds around it highly im- proved. Yrom the want of a church, this hou;e was occasionally used as a place of worship by the Roman Catholics, and the officiating priest, at the time alluded to, was the Rev. "r. Plunkett. Mr. Young's house, like "r. 'larroll'a, was on one of the streets; but, in consequence of the interposition of General Washington, who wrote to the Commissioners on the subject, it was allowed to stand, but is very different from what it once wajr. - 4 - The north wing of the Capitol alone was finished at the time of which "r. ,jj.iith speaks. The first Senate Chamber occupied about the same space as it now does, except that the floor was in the first story, and extended in a semi- circle to the roof. The present Court room aid not then exist. The Chamber pre- pared for the accomodation of the House of nepresentatives was in the western part of the buildinr and extenued nearly the whole length of the wing from north to south. The access to the gallery of both chambers was ny a hanging staircase, which sprung from the first floor in the small rotundo in the southern part of the wing, and contained a circular gallery, from which you entered the different doors. The Library, then small, was placed in a room south of the Senate Chamber, now used, in part as a committee room. The original plan furnished by Dr. Thornton was almost wholly changed oy Mr. Latrobe, who subsequently became the architect of the Capitol, and who was a man of fine taste and great skill in his profession. The block of houses spoken of by Mr. Snith as being east of the Capitol, was a large brick builainf erected by Rr. Janiel Carroll, and occupied by ; r. S-tti±s as a tavftrn, and another adjoining the large edifice built for the accomoda- tion of Congress after the late war, and occupied by a I r. Tunnecliff, called the City Hotel. There was another block built by ;ir. Thomas L- : w, on the New Jersey Avenue, called the Ten Build inrs, in which the national Intelligencer was first issued. Mrs. John Adans thus speaks of the city in 1801: "Here and there", she writes, "is a small cot, without a glass window, interspersed among the forests, through which you travel for miles without seeing a human being. The house is upon a grand and superb scale, requiring about 30 servants to keep the apartments in proper order. I could content myself almost anywhere three months; but, surrounded by forests, can you believe tnat wood is not to be had, because people cannot be found to cut ind cart it? The house is made habitable, but there is not a sinrle - 5 - apartment In it finished. We have not the least fence, yard, or other convenience without, and the great unfinished audience room I make a WmX* room of, to han t up the clothes in. It is a beautiful spot, capable of every improvement and the more I view it the wore I am delighted witn it.' o 3 H a. re ►i a* re 3 <-i - 3" 3 "1 o O c re 3" c O r+ C 3- -1 re 3 r>o re n -t 0) 2 "-»-> O^ s 05 re r-t- 0) -i 0) cr ■-t CO P3 >-t 3 re o 3" re S2. •t 3' ft 63 a. CTQ (t 3 «5 7! re o 3; -1 ■< LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 006 148 334 2