Class L:r 5^- O Book .IMS' PliESENTi:!) BY Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2011 with funding from The Library of Congress http://www.archive.org/details/journalofcaptainOOdavi JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS A GLOUCESTER SEA-CAPTAIN 1828- 1846 BRIG "CORPORAL TRIM" Solomon H. Davis, Master JOURNAL OF y CAPTAIN SOLOMON H." DAVIS A GLOUCESTER SEA-CAPTAIN 1828- 1846 Privately Printed 1922 Grs-4-0 ARRANGED AND PRINTED BY THE PLIMPTON PRESS NORWOOD MASS U-S A VvUb FOREWORD As Gloucester's Three Hundredth Anniversary approaches, an increased interest is awakened in the men and women of her past who helped to make her name and fame secure. At this time, the Journal of one of her Sea Captains may have some interest for those who would learn of the extensive foreign trade of that city one hundred years ago. Captain Solomon Davis, the writer of this Journal, was the son of a sea captain. The fron- tispiece shows the Corporal Trim^ commanded by Captain Elias Davis, the father of Captain Solo- mon Davis, standing off the coast of Spain. On this trip, he took his little son, Solomon, on his first ocean voyage. As his Journal shows. Captain Solomon Davis was a young man of wide reading, a poet, and a philos- opher. At this time he was twenty-five years of age. Shortly after his voyage to South Amer- ica, in 1828, he married Miss Mary Babson of his native town, the young lady who was so con- stantly in his thoughts during this voyage. Her brother, John James Babson, was the historian of Gloucester. L. D. C. [5] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS A GLOUCESTER SEA-CAPTAIN 1828- 1846 JOURNAL Brig " Corporal Trim " from Gloucester, TOWARDS Valparaiso, Solomon H. Davis, Master ^oth Sept. 1828 We vainly ask the scenes we leave behind, When we by other scenes are more confined; The home, that blesses and endears. The lively heart, that warms and cheers; The blushing smiles, that charm our fears And woes dispel; But prompt our grief; but swell our tears When sounds — Farewell ! The morning breeze, that rustles by, And waves the dewy rose-bush dry; Whilst in a low and pensive sigh My accents dwell; Seem but to sympathize — whilst I Proclaim — Farewell ! I never found friends so kind As I've found friends at home — but the word is — away — [9] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS Then all my good friends look up, and be gay. On, on we are speeding, While swiftly receding The brown shore of Gloucester in distance grows blue; And that gem of earth's treasures — The scene of past pleasures, The land of my childhood — fades fast from my view; But I've 'scaped from the trammels — the word is — away — Then x x, my sweet one, look up, and be gay. SUNSET — FIRST TIME Till twilight's dewy tints deceived her eye And fairy forests fringed the evening sky. Soft o'er the mountain's purple brow. Meek twilight draws her shadows grey; From tufted wood and valleys low. Light's magic colors steal away. How many bards have sung of youth; When all was novelty and truth; And decked in garb of fairy dress Its days of light and lovehness. Revere this picture — time will show Its flitting shades of joy and woe; And though its smiles are bright to-day. Tomorrow sees them fade away. [10] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS $th Oct. There is something awfully sublime in a Saturday evening on the day the Almighty finished His work. *He made the world and all there is in it, and on Sunday He rested from His labors. But this Saturday eve is delightful, 'the sky is un- clouded' our bark is ghding along over the water, with slow, but firm pace, the breeze is auspicious, but not bountiful, the sea sparkles and the stars shine with elegant transparency and the numerous dolphin appear to be in their evening gambols. Such a sight to me is splendid, but how can it be beautiful? I enjoy them in a degree, for while I am engaged in such sights on this sweet Saturday eve, I think of more than the surrounding scenery — My Home, my Friends again are there. With what pleasure does the thoughts of home fill my enraptured imagination! 7th Oct. Commenced reading ' The Three Perils of Woman ' — a dull beginning, but hope it will prove more inter- esting. 2 vols. 8th Oct. Find 'The Three Perils of Woman' very interesting, but not very sentimental — undoubtedly very true, however — finished the love part — next comes deceit and falsehood. JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS gth Oct. Calm evening. Grey twilight advances, expands and recedes without a breath from the vaulted heavens. The stars break through the haze as if to dispel the unwelcome visitor, and they finally accompHsh their desired object. Unconscious of their duty the sails lay in folds against the masts, — the vessel is unman- ageable. Oh, what a melancholy theme, — quite dif- ferent from my feelings, however, for I feel in great hopes to have a breeze before midnight, everything bids fair for such an event. Finished 'The Three Perils of Woman' — the deceit- ful part — believe it relates to some of the sex — but not all. The latter peril being jealousy — a very natural one, and almost indispensable to Love. Oh, the joys from women spring. Source of bliss and purest peace, Eden could no comfort bring Till fair woman showed her face. i^th Oct. Read "Hobomok" — found it interesting, but in some parts very superstitious. Miss Francis of Duxbury (authoress). My old friend and chronometer refused to do her accustomed good offices and my bidding. She always told me the time of day to a second at home and , [12] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS abroad, and at sea never failed to tell me my situa- tion and longitude to a mile. It is hard to lose a friend, but such a long, tried, faithful friend as my watch, seems more than many others, and is certainly painful. However, I must cherish and protect her "in sickness and health," but if she proves stubborn, I must cast her off forever. igth Oct. Read 'Love without a doubt' — very good. Surely a woman ought not only to awaken love, but to feel it in all its force, before she ventures to profess it before God and man. Read "Emily; or A Wife's Affection" — very interesting; but somewhat pathetic. It is interesting with what facility, we accommodate all the scenes of nature to our state of feehng. 20tb Oct. What a delightful evening ! — not a fish, bird, nor human being, to be seen around us but ourselves; nor appearance of anything but sky and water. The dis- tant view of twilight, tinged with red, purple, green, grey, yellow, and blue, serve to beautify the scene, and render it more romantic. Like the evening twi- light, my thoughts are bright and distant; but not Hke twilight — of many and variegated hue — my mind is now at home among my dear friends — as far as remembrance can extend. The moon is on her route to the meridian — the clouds seem conscious of [13] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS her approach, and prepare the way for Her Majesty — the Queen of Night — to pass without obstruction. The dark blue sea is smooth, and not much troubled, except by the vessel's progress through — making reg- ular, but not deep, furrows — turning the water over with her prow as she passes; but apparently without motion. The breeze is very light — consequently, our progress must be slow; but as we are in a calm lati- tude, must be satisfied with a little, 'till more comes, which I hope will be soon. Mackerel sky, and other signs are visible, and, if I must be brought to believe in signs, my hopes will undoubtedly be realized ere long. My mind is almost absorbed with anticipa- tions; but I hope, like the moon in her present situa- tion, reahzed anticipations have not arrived at their meridian ; although I have seen many happy days — yet I hope happier ones are in store for me. 2ith Oct. My sister Polly's birthday. Success to her — the partner of my youthful days — and every blessing, granted by Almighty God, await her — may the at- mosphere of her mind be always so pure, that a pass- ing cloud has no power to disturb it. Heavenly dreams — peaceful slumbers — happy realities. C'4] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS Oct. list TO MY SISTER MARY, ON HER BIRTHDAY. What is earthly happiness? — A silly poet's theme — And anything as shadowless As an infant's dream. And can I wish thee aught But joy in thy career — Each lengthened moment fraught With everything to cheer. I wish that all thou hopest To crown thy closing hours. May come in long succession — Wreathed in thornless flowers; I wish thee lengthened years — Thy life a cloudless day — And pale misfortune's tears With joy be washed away. I wish thy sparkling stream Of life may ever rush, With peace on every wave And joy in every gush; Thy beating heart, as now. With gladness overleap. And pleasure, on thy brow, Unwrinkled smoothness keep; [15] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS I wish that thou may'st live In peace — a lengthened span — Thy closing moments ending As sweet as they began. At last, may thy setting sun be glorious, As sunset on the sea. I wish you all this And as much as possible, — Polly. 22nd Oct. Favorite piece — particular verses — the whole com- mitted to memory, when a school boy. Apropos I am monarch of all I survey, My right there is none to dispute From the centre, all round to the sea; I am lord of the fowl and the brute. Oh! Solitude, where are thy charms. That Sages have seen in thy face? Better dwell in the midst of alarms. Than to dwell in this horrible place. Society, friendship, and love, Divinely bestowed upon Man; Oh! had I the wings of a dove I would often taste you again. C16] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS Alex. Selkirk must have felt grand — some would say — , when he says "I am Monarch of all I survey," etc., but he next inquires "where are the charms of Sohtude?" I answer "In pleasing meditations and anticipations." It is true, however, he had rather an unpleasant field for meditation. Society, friendship, and love, are very pleasing themes to dwell upon; but that augurs nothing — we must sometimes be sepa- rated from them. 2^rd Oct. Engaged reading "Flirtation" — very good — Hke it much — accords with my opinion generally of novels — fills one's head with proclamations. One pot of pickles gone — cake holds out very well. 24.th Oct. Reading "Flirtation" — feel much interested with Lord Mowbray's account of his flirtation with Rosa- linda — think his opinion of Italian music, etc. very good. lyth Oct. Coasting along the craggy shores of the Islands of the lofty Cape Verde, whose top reaches the clouds. The islands of St. Vincent and St. Lucia are barren and uncultivated, and are not inhabited. They are not productive of anything, except some spontaneous grass, growing promiscuously about them. The other [17] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS parts of the islands appear to be made up of craggy rocks and barren ground. St. Vincent is 20 miles long and 7 broad; St. Lucia, 15 miles long and 5 broad. Although the land here is so very high we could not see it farther than 20 miles owing to the haze. 2Sth Oct. The island of Del-Fuego is very high — it's summit soars — not magnificently — above the clouds. Be- tween this and the island of St. Fago I found the weather very unsettled, and the wind baffling, and calm — very strong tide — rips, and, in fact, most every- thing to render the scene unpleasant. Nothing about these islands to please the eye — only the pleasure of passing them. 2gth Oct. Finished reading " Flirtation " — turned out well — admire it. Lady Emily was charming — so was Lord Mowbray. Lady Frances was a flirting woman and received her deserts — hope every female like her, will receive the same, and as much more as possible. Eggs are all gone — don't hardly know how to get along without them. A small bird of the swallow variety flew on board — took lodgings, and departed in the morning. C18] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS 30^6 Oct. Another of the feathered tribe came on board — a small one — ; seems to like us pretty well, and is un- willing to leave us. Ominous? Oh! how flamenation hot the weather is — too warm to move. From the Lat. 24 ° North, I find a dense — or rather hazy — at- mosphere — never observed it before ; but account for it only by the sun's always being between the tropics. Expect to find it much the same south of the Equa- tor. I think it would be better to keep about i ° to the westward of these islands — it is my impression that they are very susceptible to sudden changes, calm, etc. although I found but little until I got be- tween Fogo and St. Lago — then I had almost per- petual calm, copious and frequent rains — tremendous heavy thunder and sharp lighting. I was among these islands 40 hours — out of that time 18 hours between Fogo and St. Lago. ^itb Oct. The bird still on board; walking about the deck, picking up the crumbs. I call him Constancy and let him promenade, and do anything he pleases. The squirrel seems jealous — poor Tibby — quite cross to- day. The weather is very warm, but it is quite natu- ral to suppose it would be. C19] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS 1st Nov. Constancy has fled — perhaps he is fond of variety, and gone aboard the other vessel for a little while. He, however, sent his representative — one of the members of the booby family. He spends his nights with us, perched in the bellfry. He is not so good- natured as Constancy; but, as I am fond of variety, and not content with one subject long, of course, say anything for a change — bad company is better than none — sameness is intolerable. I hate ill-tempered people, myself; but, as I feel pretty good-natured, myself, methinks the booby will keep on friendly terms with me. I tell him to make himself at home while he stops; he nods assent, and seems to be thankful. Tired of old acquaintances — most want to see new faces. I hke strangers — hate confinement — cannot bear to be tied to one subject; am in good health, and better spirits. Oh! be joyful! just done singing "Bounding Billows." Begone, dull care — always contented — never forsaken. 2nd Nov. See the clouds gather o'er us. The lighting is flashing; Loud rolls the hoarse thunder, The coarse rain is dashing. [20] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS Then, sorrowful wanderer, Sigh not, nor weep; For Nature, though shrouded, Will wake from her sleep. The spring, proudly smiling. Shall all things revive; And gay bridal garments Of splendor shall give. But Man's chilling winter Is darksome and dim; For no second spring-tide E'er dawns upon him. The gloom of his evening Time dissipates never; His sun, when departed. Is vanished forever. This dreadful calm weather, so fit to feed the frenzy in the soul; here's room for meditation — e'en to madness; till the mind burst with thinking. 4;tb Nov. Five weeks out and patience all gone. How perplex- ing! calm variable winds — worse to me than unre- quited love to a love-sick maiden — only the symp- [21] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS toms are different in some degree. My old partner seems loath to leave me; but if we had a breeze, he would have to look in vain for us. I don't feel quite so outrageous as I should, if there was no vessel in sight; for every body knows "misery likes company." Once in a while, think of home — sweet home — . Damp weather — bad for invalids — some people would call it. Rain-drops as big as a man's head — never saw such dews. 4tb Nov. Between the squalls, reading "Westbrook Village." Poor Laura! all love too much of a good thing. An alarming discovery to-day — while getting the water from the boats, found Constancy, and his representa- tive both drowned in the water. I really felt grieved, but, hke everything else, it soon wore off. Oh! how peculiarly tedious the time rolls. Terrible thunder and Hghting, perpetual rains, and most incorrigible baffling airs and calms; but it appears I am not alone; for it appears another pilgarlic is added to the list. It is a most delightful sensation to be continu- ally as wet as a drowned rat. It is no use to talk — I've tried that; and as for thinking — given that up long ago — shockingly disastrously tedious. Ate hearty of baked-beans and apple-pudding, and pea soup. Tarnation warm to-day — wonder how the weather is between Lat. 42 and 43N — guess not so warm as here. [22] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS 6tb Nov. Some of Mrs. Carey's accomplished daughter's paid me a visit to-day for the first time this fortnight; and by way of salutation, — as I was so glad to see them — , I shot one of them ; and if the rest had staid long enough, I should have killed them, too; and now, if the old woman comes, all I shall have to do is to put a silver ball in, and shoot her, too — gossiping old devil. Find a little time to read "Westbrook Village" — a thing of shreds and patches — most foolish love- affair that ever I heard of. "How small a portion of happiness is this world capable of bestowing, without the society of a beloved object, a feehng friend, who, with the participating smile, heightens our joys; or, when the heart is oppressed with woe, alleviate it's anguish by the balm of consolation!" External charms have, of themselves, little power to interest affection. yth Nov. Finished "Westbrook Village" — morally interesting, but not uncommonly amusing. "Who can find a virtuous woman? for her price is far above rubies. She looketh well to the ways of her household, and eateth not the bread of idleness." Allow myself to have a few serious thoughts on matrimony — haven't altered my opinion these three years. Precaution is certainly one of the greatest preventatives to unhappy [23] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS marriages; and as all marriages are not happy ones, it is very necessary to be guarded and observing be- fore such an important event. After marriage, there is no retracting. A good disposition and a mild tem- per in a female, are generally conducive to the happi- ness of men; but a bad disposition, and morose tem- per, are incorrigible in either man or woman. Better never marry than be unequally matched. Appearances seem to indicate a breeze; although the wind is a head, it is more comfortable than calm in these torrid regions. Somewhat cool this morning — make out to breathe without much fatigue. lo p.m. — unseasonable hour to be up — must walk the deck a Httle, and admire the beauties of the evening. Squally appearances — cool for the season, with rain. gtb Nov. Seem, and feel glad, to see my old partner, after an absense of a week — quite a confab before tea. He is some considerable out of the way in his reckoning — say 5 degrees. He thinks there is a N.W. current; but on that we differ very much. Confoundedly te- dious — shall have to break in upon some of my homeward patience very soon if the wind don't change. Hear no music but the chirping of a cricket now and then. [24] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS lOtb Nov. Oh, how tedious! Made only 3 miles to the south to- day. Calm, calm, how perplexing! but plenty of rain — no fear of drying up at any rate. We've ills enough — aye and to spare — Without anticipating sorrow; Then clear the brow of gloomy care. And always hope a bhssful morrow. The joys we might have, if we tried. Would smooth our path, howe'er uneven; Would make us here, if right applied. Enjoy a state, allied to Heaven. If Wisdom has her miseries to mourn. How can poor Folly live a happy Hfe? i^th Nov. Feel uncommonly well pleased to-day — wind very steady — S.E. trade wind — feel almost as happy to- day, as I should be at home with the same company — everything seems to look prosperous. I am think- ing now if I were at home, and had plenty of money, and could meet with anybody by the name of happi- ness, and that really deserved that appellation, I would resign everything to her shrine to be made her companion. I think no one happier than myself in C25] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS remembrance of my friends — believe no one has a greater share. Hope they will never have cause to reproach me. — pleasant reflections. i6tb Nov. Read some considerable in the Bible to-day. Think Jacob was very foolish for serving so long for Rachel, but I find every one is not of my opinion; it is well enough to be a httle condescending; but not so very accommodating as to allow every one to impose upon us with impunity. Cool for the season — fresh S.E. trade; — tight ship — have to put lOO buckets of water into the pumps every morning to keep her sweet; have done so all the passage — quite agree- able. I don't feel very serious to-day, although it is Sunday; but think if I were at home, that I should go to Meeting; at any rate, should Hke to hear a sermon on human depravity, and another on morality and vice contrasted; — from an able speaker and a man of talents. Beautiful sermon — nobody saved, everybody going to perdition, but we good folks. It is very strange that some people are not wiHing that others should go to Heaven as well as themselves, — but they all are. Hum! i8th Nov. Employed painting ship. [26] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS list Nov. My Mother — If there is one mortal feehng, free from the impurities of earthly frailty, that tells us in it's slightest breathing of it's celestial origin, it is that of a Mother's love — a Mother's chaste, overwhelming, and everlasting love for her children. The name of a Mother is our childhood's taHsman — our refuge, and our safeguard, in all our mimic misery; 't is the first half-formed word that falls from the babbhng tongue; the first idea that dawns on the opening mind; the first, the fondest, and the most lasting tie, in which affection can bind the heart of man. 'Tis not the selfish passion, depending on it's permanency on the reciprocation of advantages; but in it's sincerity, it casteth out itself, and centres but in the happiness of its object; and when the welfare of that object is at stake, it putteth away fear, and knoweth not weari- ness. It is not excited by form or feature; but rather by a happy perversion of perception — embues all things with imaginary beauty. It watches over our helpless infancy, with the ceaseless benignity of a guardian angel; anticipates every childish wish, hu- mors every wayward fancy, sooths every transient sorrow, sings our sweet lullaby to rest, and cradles us on its warm and throbbing breast; and when pain and sickness prey upon the fragile form, what medi- cine is there like a Mother's kisses? And when, launched on the wide ocean of a tempestuous world, C27] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS what eye gazes on our adventurous voyage, with half the eagerness of maternal fondness, amid the sad, yet not unpleasing, contest, of hopes, and fears, and deep anxieties? Yet it is not prosperity with her smile and beauty, that tries the purity and fervour of a mother's love; it is in the dark and dreary precincts of adversity; among the cold frowns of an unfeeling world, poverty and despair, in sickness and sorrow, that it shines with a brightness beyond mortahty; and, stifling the secret agonies of its own bosom, strives but to pour balm and consolation on the wound of the sufferer. The love of a father may be as deep and sincere; yet it is calmer, and perhaps more calculating, and more fully directed in the great periods and crisis of life; it cannot descend to those minutiae of affection — those watchful cares for the minor comforts, and gratification of existence, which a mother, from the finer sensibihties of her nature, can more readily and duly appreciate. The pages of history abound with the records of maternal love, in every age of time and every rank of Hfe; but it is a lesson of never ending presence, which the heart can feel, and acknowledge, and needs not example to teach it how to venerate. Can there be a being so vile and odious; so dead to nature's impulses, who, in return for such constant care, and unvarying kindness, can wilHngly or heed- lessly, wound the heart that cherished him, and for- sake the lonely one, who nursed him and sheltered [28] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS him; who can madly sever the sweetest bonds of human union, and bring down the grey hairs of his parents with sorrow to the grave; who can leave them in their old age, to solitude and poverty, while he wantons in the pride of undeserved prosperity? If there be, why let them abjure the name of man, and herd with the beasts that perish; or let him feel to distraction, that worst of human miseries. "How much sharper than a serpent's tooth it is to have a thankless child!" 6th Dec. THE sailor's SATURDAY NIGHT Come, mess-mates, so hardy, whose courage can brave The dangers, that threaten in storms on the ocean; Whose hearts, like your ships, buoyant over the wave, Unappalled have remained in the wildest commotion. Now, no tempest is nigh That courage to try — A bumper, well pledged, will fresh spirits supply; 'Tis Saturday night! let each mariner toast The wife, or the sweetheart, by whom he's loved most. The wife, we select from the fair of the world, Because all in virtue or fondness excelhng; Whose eyes, with the tears of regret, were impearled; Whose heart, with the tenderest sorrow, was swelling. C29] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS As we took our Adieu Our voyage to pursue; And plighted the vow to be constant and true; Then fill up your cans, and together we'll toast The pole-star of happiness — her we love most. Let those, who ne'er held a fond wife in their arms, Yet still to all else, are the chaste joys preferring; Fill a glass to the sweetheart, whose kindness and charms, First gained their affections, and kept them from swerving. No distance of place Shall ever erace The image, which memory dehghts to retrace; But love and fidelity join in the toast To the wife of our choice, or the sweetheart we boast. 8th Dec. My far-off home! my home of love! Each passing hour to thee I fly; I rarely raise my eyes above But prayer is pleading in my eye. If smiles the morn — if stars look bright In Heaven's clear, splendid dome; I sigh, half sad in that pure light, And ask if all is well at home. [30] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS Some thought, some hope, to thee all true, Upon my heart is ever waking; While thousand fears, what time may do. Still keeps its restless pulses aching. If seas run smooth, and all aloft Looks fair; as o'er the waves we roam; I fondly trust an air as soft. Is breathing health around my home. Does ought provoke a laugh or smile. As fancy calls some thought away — Oh! even then I pause awhile. To ask if all at home be gay. But oh! when sad and lone, I lean, In musings, o'er the gliding sea; I ask, if looks as sad are seen. In eyes that weep warm tears for me? II fib Dec. In the rough blast, heaves the billow; In the light air, waves the willow; Everything of moving kind Varies with the veering wind; What have we to do with thee. Dull, unjoyous constancy? [31] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS i8th Dec. At daylight, saw the city of Buenos Ayres; and at 6 A.M. took in all sail, and came into the outer roads — in 4 fathoms water with the chain anchor — find it a very disagreeable place for vessels to lay in — roKing and pitching very much; too rough to get on shore. At half-past i p.m. I went on shore in my boat — found dull market; and to my surprise, found my brother, Francis, and a number of town's men and acquaintances; which in some measure, took off my unpleasant feelings with regard to the dullness of the market; went to see Z , F , & Co. They give me poor encouragement — none of my cargo will do anything here. Too rough to send my boat back; sent her on board ship. Endeavor, and took lodging myself at Mrs. T . Lots of company — much as I can do to answer questions. Went to walk — met a great many ladies shopping. The evening is the only time they take for this business. A beautiful evening; returned to the house, and found lots of company; answered more questions, and at 12 went to bed. igtb Dec. Called upon Z , F & Co. — went to the cus- tom house, and delivered my manifest, and entered provisionally that I could depart again in 8 days, C32] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS without discharging anything; very strict and par- ticular at the custom house — the collector being the father of the provisional governor La V . After getting through my business at the custom house, went with my brother and some friends, to the church, St. Francisco, for the purpose of seeing the funeral of Dorrego, late Governor of this province, who was in- humanly shot on Tuesday, without trial, by order of La V ; did not see anything at church, except a large concourse of people. When Dorrego advanced to be shot, he took off his cravat, and told the as- sembly (at the same time uncovering his breast, and pointing to his wound) "These are the wounds I re- ceived, fighting for this country and you; and now I am to receive my reward." Went again to Z , F & Co. — had no offer for my cargo, nor any prospect of any. The weather more mild, and the sea smooth — sent off my boat to the vessel. Went shopping, and bought a tooth- brush of a fine-looking woman, who was much troubled with the phthisic — a kind of perpetual cough. Went into some elegant stores, and I think these people have very superior taste in decorating, and draping their stores to advantage. The females in this country are very beautiful, very affable in conversation, and uncommonly polite. Their dress is very handsome — gowns of silk, mushn, etc., coming up just high enough to display a beautiful alabaster neck, seen through a lace handkerchief. They also [33] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS wear a lace veil over their heads. Like the Spanish ladies, they have small feet and ankles, and speak the Spanish language; the color of their eyes, however, differ materially from the ladies of Spain — theirs are generally black, but the ladies of Buenos Ayres, mostly blue, — some exceptions. To speak definitely of the Buenos Ayres ladies — they are generally beautiful and indolent; but their manners are pleasing, and their dress combines taste and neatness. Perhaps I may conceive them hand- some from the circumstance of the length of time since I saw any damsels. Find my time passes very agreeably, but not with- out alloy — bad markets — bad prospects. 20tb Dec. Boat came on shore with my trunk and writing desk — had to be passed through the custom house with them, and have them opened — sent the boat back. Made my usual call at the counting house, and as- certained that I could not discharge any of my cargo without paying whole of port charges, — about 4% transit duty on what is taken away. One or two of my articles might pay a freight, but nothing com- pared with the additional expense incurred. Partly made up my mind to go away, but God knows where — the times are so bad, but think to try Monte Video. Rainy weather — myself and brother caught [34] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS in it — got wet to the skin; but finally got home; went to bed and had a comfortable night's rest. 215^ Dec. Got up in the morning before breakfast as usual, and what is stranger — dressed myself. Nothing doing to-day. Miss Charlotte, daughter of my landlady, arrived from the country; where she had been some days. She is about as soft as water-starch, and a buck-horse is as handsome; — very consequential, and I should think very . . . She is about 27 — poor creature, she will never be married — she is past the meridian. Oh, how I pity such people; but I pity her poor mother more. She appears to be a good-natured old lady — very attentive ; her age is about 60, and re- sembles Mrs. T , an old lady of my acquaintance — that is, in appearance, but rather different man- ners. In the afternoon, went to walk — saw more ladies — very beautiful. Went to bed early — tired and sleepy — wish I was at home. 22nd Dec. Made up my mind to leave Buenos Ayres for Monte Video — went to the custom house, and at 5 went off with my brother to his ship, and found it so rough, it was unsafe to attempt to get any further — spent the night with him. C35] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS 2^rd Dec, Begins moderate and cloudy. At 5 left the ship for my vessel, and got on board at 6. Mr. F came on board at 6 to take passage with me for Monte Video. At half-past 6, had a very severe squall, with rain — blew a gale so that I could not get under weigh — continues through the day to blow strong. Mr. F and myself enjoying ourselves as well as circumstances will admit. The vessel pitching heavy, and Mr. F sick. — heavy thunder and sharp lighting. 24.th Dec. Strong gales and rain. At 2 p.m., my brother came on board to see me, but at 4, a hght air sprung from the northward, and I told him he must leave me; hove up the anchor, and made sail, and stood out of the roads — at 5, finding the vessel made stern way with the current, anchored again in 3 fathoms. Te- dious time enough of it, but Mr. F 's company makes it more pleasant. He entertained me this eve- ning with some of his flirtations. He is not married nor engaged — age 28. Prospects for better markets darkens. By the way, I neglected to mention — we go on shore in carts, drawn by 2 horses, and wheels about 4 feet in circumference. [36] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS 2§th Dec. Christmas Day — merry one. Rainy weather. Mr. F drinking Merry Christmas and trying to mur- der the time, conversing on various subjects — very interesting to females, if they could hear it. At me- ridian, a small schr. passed us with American colors flying. Who knows, says I, but that she will have letters for me? 26th Dec. Begins with light airs from the eastward, and rainy. At 10, Mr. F went on shore, being tired of wait- ing for a wind. I went on board ship. Endeavor, soon after, and then learned that the Schr., that arrived yesterday, was ^6 days from Salem, with no letters. That is the hardest thing yet — begin to think my friends have forgotten me, and have made up my mind in return, to forget them — if possible. Went on shore with my brother — got wet — went to hear the news, and went on board the ship the same day. Discoursed seriously on various subjects, and went to bed. zyth Dec. Cloudy. Went on shore, and dined, and at 6 p.m. came on board again. The sea very high, and break- ing into the boat occasionally — got wet as a drowned C37] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS rat. Had a small dissertation on religion and mo- rality, and went to bed — cross enough at the non- receptance of letters. iStb Dec. Pleasant weather and calm. At lo, sent my boat and crew on board the Brig; had a serious talk and long respecting matrimony. At 3 p.m. left my brother, and went on board my vessel in the ship's boat, with some unpleasant feelings, I must confess. igth Dec. Begins with light airs from the southward, and foggy. At 2 A.M. got under weigh; made sail, and stood from the roads. At 6, took a severe and sudden squall — split the main-sail, and jib — doubled-reefed the top sail, and took in all sail, and came to in 3^ fathoms — unbent the main sail, and jib to repair. ^otb Dec. Begins with hard gales, and tremendous sea, making a fair breach over us; continues so through the day. My mind very much perplexed with head-winds. 3i5f Dec. Begins with fresh gales, and rough sea with clear weather. At 6 p.m. got under weigh; made sail, and commenced working down river. [38D JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS 1st Jan. i82g Begins with moderate breezes from the northward, and pleasant. At 5 p.m. got under weigh, and made sail, and stood down river. 2nd Jan. Same as day before. Monte Video bearing N.E. 15 miles distant. -^rd Jan. Same as ist and 2nd. At 1 1 a.m. saw the city of Monte Video. At 3 p.m. came to in Monte Video harbour with the chain in three fathoms water. See a great many American vessels. At 4 went on shore, and called on J N , Esq. — he gives me no encouragement — bad markets. At sun down, went on board to brood over my misfortunes. Hard times. 4tb Jan. Pleasant weather. Ship Herald, Capt. T , arrived from Gloucester — 6^ days — went on board immedi- ately with the sanguine expectations of getting letters from home; but, on being told there was none for me, I was almost thunder-struck, and could not be- lieve it; but it has proved too true; and as Capt. T tells me his voyage was not secret, I am in- clined to believe my friends have forgotten me — C39] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS shall endeavor with as much alacrity as possible to forget them. Had made up my mind to write to my friends to-day, but cannot compose my mind enough for some time to forgive such an intentional slight; nor shall I ever forget it — let them paHiate it as much as they please. It is hard — a vessel, coming from the same place, and neighbors — that my friends — if I have any — could not write me. If they were to write me every opportunity, I should think they were anxious to hear from me. God grant they may all be acquainted with the pangs of absence, that they may know to participate, with me, in such undesirable trials. Went on shore with Capt. T , — nothing doing on shore to-day — came off again, and learnt all the news from home — my friends were well. Re- ceived a detail of the the news of marriages, births, etc. — lots of births, and a change of seasons, and affairs. The inhabitants of Monte Video are principally Spaniards. The ladies are not so handsome, nor so numerous as at Buenos Ayres. They, however, have small feet and ankles, and dress with great taste. I must here endeavor to give some description of their character and manners. They make their own dresses and are very extravagant in their ideas of show and magnificence. As girls and lovers, they are extremely fascinating, and jealous in the extreme — prudery and affectation are certainly strangers to them; and by being in their company an hour, a person might be- [40] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS hold their true character. I am told that when they see a young man, whom they fancy as a lover, they do not hesitate to make any advances, that may be requisite, with propriety, and in the days of court- ship, are constant almost to a fault; also, they are very volatile. I have said they are pleasing before marriage — as wives they are indolent — totally un- domesticated and prudence is entirely out of the ques- tion — they have the same extravagant ideas as be- fore marriage, and do not consider the consequences. When their children are born, they put them with a negro woman to nurse, and, perhaps, they do not see the child again for some months; or I may say, before they have another, which is not long after. Polygamy is practiced here, but I am not certain that it is ad- mitted by their laws. Ladies when meeting a stran- ger, generally bow very gracefully as they pass. They are very fond of Americans. These descriptions apply, also, to the ladies of Buenos Ayres. §tb Jan. Went on shore, and succeded in selling my flour at $12 per bbl. — small oflFer for other things, but none worthy acceptance. Called on Dr. B , American consul, pro.tem., to deposit my register. Dined at an ordinary — had an excellent dinner, and pretty fair company. Went on board to ponder over the use and abuse of friends in general — taking my correspond- ents for a text. [41] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS 6th Jan. Holiday — no business done to-day. Fresh gales, thunder, and lighting; could not get on shore — very tedious on board. Cleared off in the afternoon. yth Jan. The pilot came on board to carry my vessel to the inner roads; got under weigh, made sail, beat in, and moved ship. Custom house officer came on board to keep me from smugghng — he is a man of 58 years of age, and quite a clever old fellow. Sold my httle ship, and after breakfast, went on shore. Effected no sale to-day. Sth Jan. Landed my flour. Dined with J N , Esq. — no ladies at table — that is however, accounted for as Mr. N is not married. Sold nothing to-day. gth Jan. Nothing worthy of remark occured this day. Sent some samples of my cargo to auction, but sold noth- ing. My old officer quite agreeable — he tells me he has one daughter of 22, and another of 16, unmarried. I told him I was unmarried, and should like to see them. He appeared to be pleased with the idea. C42I JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS 1 0th Jan. Sold nothing to-day. Saw the man, who was execu- tioner during the Revolution. I was told he per- formed his duty by cutting the throats of the victims, and throwing them into the sea from a precipice. He was on a small, rude-looking carriage, with three wheels, which he propelled himself. I am told he cannot sleep unless he stands erect; visited, no doubt, by the judgment of God. II fib Jan. Spent the day on board — feel uncommonly dull and stupid — fine weather. The best company I find to- day, is my dinner and wine. Spent the day generally in meditation about my future arrangements in busi- ness, and trying to forget my former friends at home — feel in hopes I shall make out very well, and in a short time, accompHsh the desired object. 1 2th Jan. Went ashore rather early in hopes to accompHsh something — but, unfortunately, did not make out — concluded to advertise my vessel for Rio Janeiro — to sail on the i8th. for passengers — hard times — heard of, nor saw, anything worthy of note this day. Sold nothing. [43] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS i^th Jan. Had an application to take a man and his family to Rio, but he appears unwilling to agree to my terms — feel in very good spirits to-day — mind quite tranquil, but sometimes absorbed in pleasant anticipations. I4.th Jan. Don senior M— — C , with his family, and ser- vants, concludes to make passage for Rio for 300 Patacoons. Several more applications, but could not agree upon terms. Thoughts to-day principally upon my business — not much else. i^th Jan. Made no sale to-day, and had no offer — shocking dull business — tedious in the extreme. Feel in good health, and excellent spirits at the idea of leaving here. Visited the Oak Hotel with one of the boarders. The hostess is an uncommon sluttish-looking woman about her dress — rather handsome face, uncommonly talkative, and is the size of one of those people, that are denominated the seven beauties. i6th Jan. Engaged another passenger for Rio for 3 gold ounces. I have got now, as many as I can possibly take — got wet to the skin going on shore. Saw lots of girls on [44] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS the mould — some of them pretty — others, not — mostly of the brunette complexion — nothing to be compared with some of my acquaintances. Think of home at intervals "sweet home." 17th Jan. Commenced clearing at the custom house. An auc- tion at the Oak Hotel — went there, and thought if I did not buy anything, I should see the beautiful hos- tess — was not dissappointed; for she was there as large as life. Was somewhat disgusted with her for- wardness; but with her and a Mrs. Green, held con- versation for the space of 2 hours on different sub- jects. Mrs. G is a widow, who lost her husband at Colonia a few months ago. She came here for the purpose of obtaining a passage for England. She is a woman of very easy manners. i8th Jan. Went on shore to hear the news by the arrival of the American ship, Star, from Philadelphia. Found the Capt. to be an old acquaintance — talked a Httle about old times. He tells me Jackson will be Presi- dent, which makes me somewhat surprised — how- ever, it doesn't trouble me much. Had Senior C his lady, child, and suite to dine with me. They in- tend to take up their abode until I get to Rio. Mrs. C is a fine looking woman — a description of [45] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS her perhaps, would not be amiss; she has black eyes, black hair, a nose with a small projection, tending to add to its beauty; mouth of middling size; the only objection I have to her physiognomy is her teeth — they are in some measure, a Httle decayed, but not sufficient to spoil her other features — her age is about 19, is of a brunette complexion, and has a child about 4 months old, and I presume, like all the natives of Brazil, she has a negro woman for nurse. I should think, if I were to judge from appearances, she was extremely fascinating, for she has a most pleasant, and expressive countenance, and a " love-Iaughing eye" — hope her husband is not of a jealous disposi- tion — she has a most alluring eye. One circumstance must not pass unnoticed — suffice it to say, she sat at table with her child, etc. — a child of 4 months old is not very amusing, nor has it, in my opinion, the least attraction — except to its father and mother. igtb Jan. Went on shore to finish clearing out — breakfasted with J N , Esq., got my accounts, also my papers from Dr. B , after telling him my opinion of him in some measure — took my money on board — the proceeds of what I sold here. Calm all day so that I could not get to sea at any rate, if I was ready; but am not quite clear of the custom house. Feel savage and cross as an Indian at the idea of [46] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS being detained here. My passengers, I think, will be pleasant ones — especially the lady. The children, however, annoyed me very much last night, squalling and crying so, I could not sleep, but I am in hopes it will not last long. 20th Jan. Went shore early, — breakfasted with J N , Esq. again, in company with Mr. H , the British Consul, and a number of other gentlemen. They were joking me some considerable about my passen- gers, etc. but I was rather cross and vexed at the idea of yesterday's detention, so that I answered rather short at times. At 9 got clear from the custom house — said "Good-bye" to J N the best man in the Rio-de-plata, and as good as any in the world — can say that I left him with regret. Went on board at 10 — got under weigh, and proceeded to sea from Monte Video, with 3 gentlemen, i lady, and child, and 8 servants — passengers for Rio de Janeiro. Very com- fortable on board — much more so than I expected. Current setting very strong into the river; or rather, towards the north shore — I should think at the rate of 1 1 miles per hour. Mrs. C , very much alarmed this evening with fire in one of the state-rooms, from a lamp, which was carelessly left there — it was for- tunately discovered in due time to stop its more serious progress and consequences. In the morning, got under weigh again, and, with extreme pleasure ob- [47] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS served the shores of this deceitful and faithless Rio- de-la-plata, receding from my view. When I have room and leisure, I must give a description of this inconstant river. Mrs. C a httle sick, but very interesting, nevertheless. 22nd Jan. Wind a-head; but, with a compliment of 26 souls on board, it is not agreeable; however, I will not mur- mur. Mrs. C , Hke my cat, Susy, is very easy in her manners, and uncommonly careless. A further de- scription, on further acquaintance, will not be amiss. Her arms and hands, and I may say, ankles, are like bird's claws. She appears very well in the face, but generally, very "thin favored." She adjusts her hair with a great degree of taste, and, upon the whole, she is very neat in her dress. Should think she would measure about 18 inches in circumference — weighs about 80 lbs., and is about 4 ft. 7 in, in height. She has an uncommonly languishing smile — from ap- pearances, I should think they had not been married long. 2^rd Jan. Wind unfavorable. Find my passengers, with the exception of the servants, very agreeable. They — the servants — are very troublesome. Killed a sheep, which, in the course of the day, was devoured with much alacrity. C , at table, fails not to drink my [48] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS good health. She is a pretty creature, as far as ex- ternal appearance will go; but takes no particular interest with regard to her child, and leaves it alto- gether with a negro woman. I dislike her very much for that. I here view the difference between the sweet souls of America, and other countries, and feel every day a greater regard, and affection, for those, that I have the pleasure of knowing to be virtuous and amiable. Enjoy myself as much as circumstances will permit. 24th Jan. Nothing of consequence transpired to-day among the passengers — they, however, still continue very agree- able. I begin to think that, had I a wife, nothing would tempt me to take her to sea; in my opinion, a man, continually in sight of a woman, is apt to let his affection for her degenerate. And, another great evil is — they are very much exposed to the idle gaze of all disinterested people on board a ship. Woman, lovely woman, certainly was not created to be food for scandal — although some of them deserve all the scandal that is practiced upon them. Delicacy and modesty, unaffected, are, in my humble opinion, the most fascinating traits in the character of a lovely female. [49] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS 2^th Jan. Dined upon roast turkey. Nothing occurred worthy of remark this day. I now and then turn my thoughts to my sweet home; view the retrospect of past pleasures with increasing delight, and believe that no love of the kind surpasses that of a mother — her's is not attended with self-interest; nor can any reverses of fortune lessen her affection for a child; she still loves on with unabated tenderness. Her children are the idols of her heart; in prosperity, she looks upon them with pleasure; and, in adversity, she sympathizes in their misfortunes; no crime — however great — no circumstance, can dissipate a mother's love for a child. A good wife will make the hours, and days, and years of life, pass pleasantly; but miserable is that man, who getteth a wife, who strives not to please him — he is of course, happier abroad than at home. 26th Jan. A day of sameness — during my leisure, think some of matrimony. Happy is the man, who can say he possesses the first and only love of a virtuous female. Appearances may indicate such things; but, to be confidently sure, is to know every thought of such a valuable heart. Words, as well as actions, must con- firm it, or else, in my opinion, it is false. The object of a man's heart, according to my ideas, must be the [50] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS one that evinces the most affection for him — she, who disguises not her feelings; but strives with alac- rity, to please the object of her affections — by looks of pleasure, and, from her appearance, shows, every time she sees him, her dehght. Some would Hke to see them at particular times, as if love was an article of merchandise; and, indeed it is made so generally. "Men die from time to time, but not for love." 27th Jan. Tolerable good breeze, and the vessel seems to be shortening the distance which, of course, pleases me very much. Killed another sheep to-day, which was soon devoured. iSth Jan. Moderate weather, but pleasant. Meditated some on the joys and sorrows of matrimony — personified in Dr. C & lady. Conversation, at table, uncom- monly edifying and interesting. My lady takes a very active part. Time glides quickly by, and why, for Heaven's sake, should it not, when we are under no restraint in conversaftion? ^rd Febr. At I past 4 saw the land — the western part of the interior of the province of Rio Janeiro bearing North 45 miles distant. [51] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS 4th Febr. At 8, was boarded by a boat from the custom house; one from the fort and the police-boat. At 10 I went on shore, and, to my great joy, all my passengers, also. Found times exceptionally dull; but concluded to stay, and wind up my voyage some way or rather. At 3 P.M. went on board again — got under weigh, and proceeded up above Rat Island and anchored above between Rat Island and Cobra's Island — hav- ing made a full entry. Got the long boat out, and all ready for discharging. No time to think of future prospects. 6th Febr. Took out one Hghter load. Dined with M , W , & Co. — understood from them, there had been letters for me here, but had gone to Buenos Ayres. Rather a hard case, but still think it must be a mistake. Begin to feel sore about my voyage, but console myself with the idea that some others are doing worse. yth Febr. Rainy weather, and could not discharge any cargo to-day. Went on shore, but did no business nor sold anything. Heard from Francis by Capt. C of Brig J , of N. Y., but received no letters. My mind quite tranquil — met with nothing to disturb it. C52] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS Stb Febr. Fine day — staid on board all day to write letters to my friends, on the strength of what I heard on shore, for I had made up my mind not to write until I had received some letters from home; or heard of some being on the way. gth Febr. Busy day — discharging as fast as possible — got one lighter load on shore; sold some articles, low enough. Shocking, perplexing. Dined with M , W , & Co. — pleasant company to-day. loth Febr. Employed discharging cargo — got out one lighter load. Sold some articles at a loss — begin to be tired of Rio Janeiro. There is no society here. lUb Febr. Discharged a hghter load of merchandise to-day, which will be all I shall discharge this week. Feel very agreeable to-day — got my hurry over. 12th Febr. Spent the day on board, it being rainy and having some business on board, which needed my attention. Dull day. [53] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS i^th Febr. Drissley rain — no business done to-day. i4tb Febr. Rainy weather. Was obliged to go on shore, and at- tend the auction of my furniture etc. — made some pretty good sales — feel quite relieved. Dined on shore with my friends, M , W , & Co. Went on board early to brood over my business, and think what is best to be done. i§th Febr. Rainy weather — staid on board as usual — it being the Sabbath. i6th Febr. Moderate weather, and rain at intervals. Dined on shore, but eflfected no sales, and did httle other busi- ness. ijth Febr. Calm and very warm — thermometer at 90. Dined on shore — business dull to-day — produce on the rise, and exchange depreciating. i8tb Febr. Pleasant. Times and business dull as usual. [54] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS igth Febr. Painting ship, etc. Pleasant weather. Business dull made no sales. 20tb Febr. Rainy weather, with thunder and lighting. Sold my Blocks. Saw a man about 7 ft. 2 in. tall. Oh what a monster! 21 St Febr. Pleasant weather — business about as usual. 22nd Febr. Washington's Birthday. Dressed my vessel with flags, etc. 2 3 re? Febr. Discharged the oars, handspikes, etc. — dull day. 2j^th Febr. Mr. M came on board to see the vessel. Holiday — no business at the custom house. 2^th Febr. The vessel shines like a fiddle — makes the most splendid appearance of any vessel in port. C55] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS 26tb Febr. Pleasant but very warm. Dined on shore. See nor hear anything worthy of remark. 2-jth Febr. Pleasant weather. Exchange much as usual — ap- pears to have a permanent stand at 24 — disgusted more and more with Rio Janeiro. Home, sweet home. iStb Febr. Pleasant weather — everything about as usual. igtb Febr. Pleasant weather — 5 months from home — staid on board as usual for Sundays. Begin to think about turning my face homeward — what a delightful idea. 2nd March Went on shore, but made no sales or effected any- thing, that will tend to hasten my departure. Spent the evening on board Brig M of New York, with Capt. L and his lady. They appear to be quite comfortable, but I wonder much how a man can take his wife to sea with him — especially to this part of the world. Mrs. L appears to be quite a sailor — takes the lead, and sits at the head of the table, [56] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS and does the honors incumbent on a person in her station. Her age is about 37, and she was married about 4 months ago. She tells me she likes going to sea very much. I admire her candor, but don't think much of her taste. ■^rd March Calm and pleasant. Dined at Hotel de-Nord in com- pany with some of my friends. Ate a hearty meal. Meditate a good deal to-day on the depreciation of currency. 4th March A day of sameness. Purchased some sugar, and ad- vertised the vessel for sale to-morrow at auction. §th March Pleasant weather. Attended auction, but did not have a satisfactory offer; and, of course, did not sell. I am now settled in determination to go directly to Gloucester. 6th March Cloudy weather. Spent my time as usual on change, etc. yth March Cloudy weather. Commenced taking in cargo — 466 C57] bags of sugar. JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS Sunday Sth March Pleasant weather. Spent my day on board in a very devout and christian-Iike manner — as is my general custom. gtb March Pleasant weather. Did no business of importance to- day. loth March Very busy settling my business on shore. nth March Settling my business, etc. preparatory to my depar- ture — begin to realize the effects of a bad voyage. 1 2th March Very busy, closing sales. i^th March Took on board lOO bags sugar — busily employed at the custom house, and settling business, etc. 13^^ March Took on board the balance of my cargo — got through with all my business — settled accounts, etc. ; now, thank God, ready for sea. Rio Janeiro is the C58] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS most populous and richest city in Brazil. The slave- trade is carried on here to a very great extent. The natives are of the color denominated brunette- brownish. Husbands here are always jealous of their wives, and generally keep them at home — as they think — while they are pursuing their ordinary avo- cations. The women are, unfortunately, very ugly — if I may be allowed such a harsh expression — wear no bonnets, and but few clothes — they generally are not to be seen till ii or 12 a.m., when they dress etc., but, previous to that time, they go about the house in "dishabille," with a loose morning dress, and shoes "slip-shod." They are seldom seen in the streets, and have very extravagant "notions," or ideas — totally undomesticated. The Emperor of Brazil re- sides here — he is a young man of about 28, and has 17 wives. An impartial person would say he was fond of women. The exports from this place are coffee, sugar, hides, cotton, etc., but the imports exceed the exports 2 to I. The harbor is very large and capacious, and, withal, safe. i§th March Begins with a breezy squall from south-west, attended with rain. At 6 a.m. moderate — got under weigh — made sail, and proceeded down the harbor, with a small breeze from the north-ward, in company with 8 C59] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS Other vessels. At 7 the visit-boat came alongside — examined papers, etc. and departed. The remainder of the day, wind ahead, and moderate — employed beating out. At 12, passed Fort Santa Cruz, and with little regret, I bid adieu to Rio Janeiro, although I found there some agreeable companions. i6th March Boarded by a boat from the whale ship, H H of New Bedford from the Brazil Bank, for Rio Janeiro — out 8 months, and full of oil — Capt. very sick. §th April Island of Trinidad bearing north, 39 miles distant. This island is very craggy, and uneven — producing nothing. The land, when within about 20 miles dis- tance, has a white appearance. Vessels bound from Brazil to the northward, often make this island. 1 2th April Since being within the limits of the S.E. trade-winds, have had continued squalls of wind and rain, and variable; but feel in hopes the bad squalls are over. Ate the last fowl for dinner to-day. Oh, how luscious curry is — most time to get home now. Fresh meat most all expended — only one pig left — poor crea- ture. Feel composed, and mind tolerably tranquil — think of sweet home, and my dear friends — think a [60] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS little about matrimony. I believe marriage is like a sea voyage — he that enters into the ship, must ex- pect to meet with storms and tempests. A man is the true possessor of a thing, who enjoys it, and not he that owns it without the enjoyment of it. Now, what is the use for a young man to have an Angelina, or own one, (as I may say) when other men enjoy their society in the same degree, as much, oftener, and perhaps, more than he does; and all because they cannot be content with one, but Hke to flirt with all, for the sake of variety. Now I say a man is not the true possessor of a thing, unless he enjoys it alone. ^th May Horrid perplexing — so near soundings and so moder- ate. However, had a very pressing invitation from Capt. O to take breakfast with him and his lady, and passengers — ladies and gentlemen — 6 in num- ber, — but, having a light air, and thinking more about home, was obliged to decline his polite invita- tion. It would have given me great pleasure to have spent an hour or so, with the ladies; especially as there were young ones. I really don't know what would be a greater treat than female society. Had a long conversation with Capt. O , about matters and things. I spared him some coff"ee and sugar, which was evidently a treat to the sweet souls. I wish I had had tea for them; but self being my pre- [61 ] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS dominating principle, thought of that first. Oh! how I love the looks of a chaste and virtuous female — the loveliest and most perfect of the works of the Almighty. MEMORY Oh, what survives misfortune's blight — Blooms fresher 'neath a stormy sky — Through clouds of darkness shines more bright? 'Tis memory — faithful memory ! When absense chills the glowing heart, And fond regret bedews the eye — What can a thrilling bhss impart? 'Tis memory — faithful memory ! When Fancy dwells on forms long dear, And fond affection prompts the sigh — Whose fairy glass shows loved ones near? 'Tis memory — faithful memory! [62] Towards Oahu, Sandwich Islands, Bark « MiNDORA," S. H. Davis, Master from Boston §th Apr. 1845. This is our first Sabbath since leaving Boston, and I feel as gloomy as the weather looks. Have not yet gotten over my home-sickness, and still feel discon- tented. I don't think I shall be able to read a great deal this passage owing to interruptions I constantly receive; but may God in Heaven grant me a con- tented mind, that I may feel cheerful and happy. This is rather a long voyage for me to take, and I am very sorry my friends did not say more for me to give it up; but I know I must try, with God's blessing, to make the best of it, and try to pass the time as pleasantly as possible. God speed us on- ward. 5 days out. April 5th begins with heavy gale from S.W. with violent squalls, heavy rain and heavy sea. At 4 p.m. ship lurching very deep — every thing amid-ship — all the water-casks and a number of other stores fetched away to leeward, which caused the ship to lay with her lee-sail under water for some 20 minutes. Righted at | past 4 — kept her before the wind, until C63] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS we got everything secure. Fortunately, soon after the ship was knocked over, the wind moderated. Had it not, I do not think the ship ever would have righted again. There never was such a mess I believe, before. Molasses, onions, porter, beans, spars, paint-oil, etc, were floating about the decks in all directions — water came into the house, as usual, of course — hen- coops filled full of water drowning about 15 fowls. For my part, after getting all secure and safe, — in doing which I took the most active and conspic- uous part for want of a proper person — I could not help expressing my gratitude to Almighty God for such a Providential deliverance — for causing his mighty winds, at that time, to be more still — en- abling us to work to more advantage; although most of the time, I was completely enveloped in water. I thank God for our wonderful deliverance from dan- ger; and for thus preserving us. Wilt thou, oh, Eternal Father of Mercies, still continue to hold over us thy protecting hand; and still continue to keep us from danger and evil; and Oh God, wilt thou avert whatever may tend to our disadvantage; and make us thankful and grateful to thee for the health I now enjoy to perfection; and wilt thou, O Heavenly Father, waft us, in peace and safety, in thine own good time, to our desired port without accident. Thou, who tempers the wind to the shorn lamb, wilt thou guide us safely along; make me, O God, mind- ful of thy mercies. C64] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS iStb Apr. Commenced making Main top-sail and cannot find anyone on board, who can sew a seam decently — I shall have to get it botched after a fashion. Fine breezes, and pleasant weather. Time seems to pass swiftly. I must say, I can enjoy myself much better at sea by myself, than to have passengers, for I never can be by myself; and seldom get a chance to read. One pleasant passenger is enough on a long voyage — then we can arrange things better. igtb Apr. Reading this day "Texas and Mexico" by Mrs. Houston, an English woman; — miserable trash enough — . I must soon make some remarks on my passengers — they are not very troublesome; I hope I shall be able to find enough for them to eat and drink. The young bride seems to have gotten over her sea-sickness but not her home-sickness; she is rather sorry she listed, I should think, but it is too late to repent. She is 21 years old, and seems very girhsh. — The Largessa weeds seem very plenty. 20th Apr. It is indeed most beautiful weather. The Queen of Night seems to be proud of her influence upon and command of, the weather; of which she justly may C65] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS be. Another Sabbath, and a long day as usual on board ship; everyone seems inventing some plan to kill time — myself among the rest. The honeymoon seems to be passing without much billing and cooing; I think the bridegroom has none of the jealousy, which is common to ardent lovers. I hope my dear wife and children are now in good health, and enjoy- ing themselves all they can. Would to God I were with them to partake; but I hope the time will soon roll on, when I shall again be restored to them; and find them in health and happiness. May God grant we may all be spared. Although it is a long time to look forward; yet a year is quite a short time to look back. In God, however, I put my trust, who has carried me so far, and so many times, in safety. May He still continue to do so; may He grant me my health, which is indeed the greatest blessing; which I have much reason to be thankful for; and that of my beloved wife and family. 2^rd Apr. When the moon rose last eve, the bride observed it was a "funny moon;" I pretended to understand her to say "Honey-moon." I told her I knew it was her Honey-moon. She took it all in good part — as she does everything I say to her. There does not seem to be much Honey-moon with them. I frequently give them lessons on the comforts of the married life; [66] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS and what is necessary to produce it; how they should conduct themselves, etc. I am rather surprised that a young girl, who has never been from the town where she was born; who has scarcely been out of sight of her Father's house; who has father, mother, brothers and sisters, should have ever been prevailed upon to undertake such a voyage as this. She feels the change bitterly. I pity her very much, and I very often wish she, as well as myself, were in our own dear native home. "So I wish," she always says. She is indeed very homesick, although she says she is as happy on board ship, as she can be away from home. Reading "Ellis' Polynesian Researches." 27th Apr. Today I met with quite a dissappointment — in look- ing over a package, which was sent from home the morning I sailed, I find 3 pairs of duck pants — each about half done. I was sorry as I contemplated putting on a pair to-day, by way of changing my cloth ones — it really is a pity as I Hke duck pants at sea in warm weather. Read some in Psalms. I ask how is my best of wives and children to-day? May God be ever with them and protect them! i^th May This day crossed the equator — that imaginary cord, which is one point out of the 4 gained in our passage. C67] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS We have had rather a long passage thus far; but trust we will have favoring breezes and decent weather as we progress. We crossed the hne in about 23° 50', which is generally where I hke to cross; my mind is much easier than when I go farther west — although I believe passages are made quicker when crossing about 27° or 28°. Passed a Bark, probably bound for Europe — homeward bound — How full of magic — those two words ! I have seen many years of uninterrupted labor in my profession, without suf- fering myself to be turned aside by anything — poh- tics or pleasure — . How pleasant it would be for me now, at this age, to pause mid'st my toil; with a genteel competence; for I find that Life has other attractions than the pursuit of money. I think with small annoyance, I could rehsh the sweets of Life, as any other person within the circle of my acquaintance. I have everything to make hfe desirable — except plenty of money. Yet I have always had all I want; and got all that was desired for those under my care. It is, indeed, a gratification to me to get everything the dear partner of my soul may wish. She is the best of wives and mothers. May God grant that she and those dear children, may yet be enjoying health and happiness in my dear native town; and that nothing may appear to disturb, or in the least mar, their happiness for a moment. Everything now at home must appear beautiful — the Golden robin, which at this time is in our neighborhood, carols [68] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS forth his morning song — a sound to me at home, nothing of the kind can excel; the flowers begin to come forth — gardens are being planted ; and every week brings forth something new in the vegetable world. How I love to watch the growth of flowers, trees, and vegetables, that grow in my garden! What a contrast between this season, when all Nature looks gay, to gloomy Winter, with all its harbingers! Flying-fish have been plenty for several days. i6th May We pass our time playing back-gammon sometimes, and in the evening, play whist; but 'tis indeed te- dious — this being at sea ; but with the blessing of God, I try to make the best of it; and get along as easy as possible. I have become an inveterate smoker; and consume 6 or 7 cigars a day on an average. A cigar is certainly a pleasant companion at sea; and when I am smoking, time seems to pass very agreeably. 45 days out. i8th May If I had crossed the line as far west as some do, I think we should have come very near the Brazil Coast. Flying-fish very abundant; and Mrs. Carey seems to have let out some 7 or 8 of her chickens — they like a breeze. C69] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS Here again is another Sabbath, and I have been reading "The Sermon on the Mount," which I always like to read; for we seem to have there almost all the divine laws. The weather is getting cooler as we get South, and as we go from the sun; the days also are getting shorter. 22nd May Killed a pig to-day. Since crossing the line, we have gotten along pretty well. I am tired of being land- lord. I hke the upper crust — they are generally the least trouble — and conduct themselves with more propriety. 2Sth May Still numerous flying-fish. Sabbaths seem to come round very fast, and as we are getting along very well, I am happy to welcome them, and say Safely through another week Thou hast brought us on our way; Let us now thy blessing seek; Waiting in thy courts to-day. I feel much more contented than when I first came out of port; and relying on a kind Providence, for protection, I begin to look forward brightly. C70] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS 27 tb May 1 see before me daily, instances of the necessity of a young man's going about the world, and away from the indulgence of his parents. When brought up under the immediate care of his parents, and not knowing what it is to be denied anything, they are not fit to go out into the world to shift for them- selves; as they must not expect the indulgence of fond parents bestowed by strangers, who have no reason to be interested in them. Such an one has an idea that every one must incommode themselves, that he may be made comfortable. ^rd June The weather really looks hke summer to-day; but, like such weather, on the New England coast in win- ter, we cannot place much dependence on its con- tinuance. Some dolphin around the ship to-day, and 2 or 3 Cape pigeons. The sea is quite smooth. I should Hke to fall in with some vessel homeward bound. I have very httle opportunity to read or even write; as I am continu- ally annoyed, and my cabin is a complete thorough- fare. I do make out at night, to find my berth unoccupied; but that is the only part of the cabin, that is — by the passengers, either for themselves or for their things; and they are not at all particular [71] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS whom they intrude upon; and one of them, when sitting in the passage-way, never would move an inch, unless I step upon him, or tell him to move. 4th June The sea quite smooth — with such weather as this on the coast of the United States, it would be called a "weather-breeder." I do not know what it will turn out here, as the moon changes to-day. I wish I could be sure we were half passage; for I feel really in hopes we are. 64 days out. 6th June The days, from one to another, grow perceptibly shorter as we go south; and the nights of course, longer. That is the worst of going round Cape Horn in Winter; but all admit this month to be the best for passing the Cape. Sth June Cape Pigeons and albatrosses are very numerous. Caught a porpoise and lost him again. What time I can get free from annoyance, I employ in reading the Bible — principally in Psalms to-day. I like the Psalms — they are most beautiful poetry — and sub- lime indeed. With Proverbs, Book of Job, and Ec- clesiastes, I take pleasure in reading in the Old Testament. Isaiah will do very well; but most of the Old Testament I don't think very edifying. [72] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS gth June Some drift-stuff round — probably from the La Plata; such as small pieces of reed and kelp. Albatrosses, in large flocks, sitting round upon the water — I never saw so many at one time; some of them are very large. lotb June See no drift-stuff to-day. The weather a little cooler just enough to be comfortable. I long to see the day when I shall be rid of those troublesome and uncom- fortable passengers; for they know nothing of life on ship-board, and they expect a great deal — all the Cabin and all the deck. nth June Saw some pieces of kelp. The day ends foggy. I would rather dig clams at high-water, than I would take such a set of passengers as I now have. They have never been about any before; and they do not know what they ought to expect aboard ship. I must say, as I have always said, give me the upper crust for passengers — not the half-way ones; nor those who have to borrow the money to pay their passage; and have scarcely suitable clothes. C73] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS 22nd June Since passing the River La Plata, have had very changeable weather, and winds. When fair, they have been hght; and of course our progress has been very much retarded. Besides, I have found a constant easterly current, which accounts for so much drift sea-weed and kelp being seen so far from land. Large numbers of the fur and hair seals are round and about the ship, by night and by day; and have been daily since we passed the La Plata. I am al- most tried hearing them cry out. 24;tb June At I spoke Ship Charlotte Millett of and from Boston for Valparaiso. What an age since we saw a vessel; and I must say it really seemed good; especially one that sailed about the same time with ourselves, and both bound round the Cape. He outsails me; and therefore, we shall not keep company. 2gth June Spoke British Brig Libra, of and from Dundee, for Valparaiso — 3 months out — . The Brig's longitude was about 1° to the westward of mine; but he said his chronometer did not go very well — mine I think about right. The Brig was in ballast — the Capt., from his questions, seemed to have quite a dread of C74] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS Cape Horn. The time is fast passing away, and I am sorry to say we are making little or no progress on our way. ^th July Cape St. John bearing S.W. at noon. Truly this is a cold, barren, bleak, and inhospitable coast — the land is very high — and the mountains, and indeed most of it, is covered with snow. loth July At 8 A.M. saw Cape Horn rearing N.N.W. Although cloudy, so that the sun is obscured most of the time, yet pleasant. Thus far, although we have been some time about this coast, yet we have not had a very bad time; and I a,m sure I did not expect to meet such weather in sight of Cape Horn. nth July At 3.30, spoke English Brig Tryphena — of and from Sydney, N.S.W. last 44 days from New Zealand for Liverpool — full of passengers. We have made quite a great run this day. gth Aug. We passed the terrible ordeal of passing the Cape very well; having had pretty good weather, and I am led to believe that June and July — although Mid-winter — are the best months for passing the Cape. The long nights are very tedious, and the sun C75] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS seldom makes her appearance. A mer. Obs. I scarcely can say I obtained for a number of weeks; the only sure method I found for ascertaining the ship's position, with any degree of accuracy, was by Alts, of the moon for time; and also the Latitude by her. I found in all my observations taken that way, the ship's Long, by Chronometer, was as correct as the sun. That method was certainly a very valu- able discovery; especially when traversing cold, in- hospitable regions in winter; where the sun, at mer. is only 9° high. On the whole, I had the most bois- terous and tedious time, when about the neighborhood of the Falkland Islands. Notwithstanding I did not have a bad time in passing Cape Horn, I never should desire to go near it again. i6tb Aug. We are getting along very slowly with the work as relates to getting the ship in order; having only one man, who is capable of doing anything well, and he having been laid up the whole passage. I'jth Aug. How many delightful associations the Sabbath brings forth — especially to me — the thoughts of home and of my dear wife and children, whom I prize beyond everything, are my predominant and seldom ceasing feeling. Tropical birds about the ship. C76] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS 26th Aug. Caught a bonitoe; had it fried and of course, eat it. 2gtb Aug. At 8j, saw a very brilliant meteor, which seemed to illuminate the whole heavens for the space of nearly a minute. Latter part of day fresh breezes with squalls and hard rain; filled 4 casks with water. 1st Sept. Raining in torrents — filled all the empty water casks. ^rd Sept. This is the anniversary of my birthday — I find my- self fast advancing in the path of fife; every year seems to me shorter than the last. Nothing tends so much to promote the remembrance of home and friends, as the anniversary of our natal day; it calls to mind the blessed season of youth, when all is fife, and hope, and joy. Parents, and brothers, and sis- ters, are held in pleasant remembrance; wife and children now claim my chiefest and happiest thoughts — of them, how I love to think! Remembrance of them, awakens all my sohcitude and happiness. They are indeed a cherished green spot in my pleasant memories. C77] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS 4th Sept. 4 of my white-washed, fresh-water sailors off duty, — sick; which reduces the number one half; and one half of such a miserable set, makes a poor part of a crew. I have indeed a real Fieldings gang — an old, old man, and a little boy, a d fool, and a Frenchman. §tb Sept. A group of small islands — about 9 in number, and but httle known, and, as I deem it most prudent to keep to the eastward — both because they are but little known, and on account of baffling winds and calms, which are hkely to be feared in their vicinity. The number of the group upon the chart is very in- definite. I have no wish, however, to make any new discoveries, shall endeavor, therefore, to give them a wide berth. 157 days out. 14th Sept. At 6 caught a porpoise — divested him of his blubber to make oil, and had his fiver fried for breakfast; which, by the by, tasted very much fike pig's fiver. iSth Sept. At noon the east part of Morotoi Island bore W. by S. [78] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS igth Sept. At I, the east end of Morotoi bore south 5 or 6 miles distant. At sunset, saw Oahu. At daylight, the S.E. part of Oahu in sight — made sail and stood down for it. At 9, passed Diamond Point, and hauled in for the town of Honolulu. At 10, took on board Capt. D. P. Penhallow — pilot — , who moored me safe inside the reef, and into the harbor close to the wharf; furled the sails, & cleared the decks, etc. — passengers went on shore, p.m. had considerable com- pany from shore. 20tb Sept. Went on shore, and presented my manifest at the Custom house, and left my ship's papers with Mr. Abel, the newly appointed American Consul; and I believe my ship's papers are the first that he has taken. Busy on board clearing up, and getting ready for discharging. Nothing of particular moment occured to-day. Sent 2 men to U.S. hospital at $3! per week. 22nd Sept. Commenced discharging cargo; employed Kanaces to work at 50 cts. per day — they finding themselves. Had 2 or 3 gentlemen to dine. People here seem in rather an unsettled state, on account of 2 parties — C79] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS the Government and Anti. — Spent the evening at Capt. Penhallow's, who has a straw house, and has a wife and 2 children. We hauled into the wharf in the morning, early. 23rd Sept. Discharging cargo — very convenient; and the mer- chants send for their goods as soon as they are landed — pilotage in and out of this port $1 per ft. each way. There is a hotel kept here for board merely, without lodging — price $6 per week; they keep a pretty good table. It is kept by a Mr. Thompson of Charlestown, and Capt. Carter of Boston. They have about 30 or 40 constantly, and are doing pretty well. 24th Sept. Discharging cargo. The King and his Cabinet visit the British Admiral, Sir Francis Seymour, by invita- tion. He was saluted on going on board and leaving the ship — from the CoIIingwood — Admiral's ship — also by the U.S. Frigate, Savannah — Commodore Sloat — ; also lying here in the outer roads. Sold no goods yet; nothing else of any particular moment occured to-day. 2$tb Sept. Discharging — find the cargo not very well stored; and the steam of the lumber has moulded the things a great deal. [80] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS The Am. Consul invited me to make one of his family party to be presented to his Majesty, Kame- hameha 3rd; and as this is a particular appointment, I feel somewhat flattered. At 8 P.M. I dressed myself in my court dress — my best of course; and rode up to the Ex-consul's house, where the present consul lives; there we were intro- duced to the ladies of the party. We left the house soon after 8 o'clock; Mrs. A and Mrs. S in a small hand-waggon drawn by a native. The car- riage was a pleasure waggon in miniature. Mr. A , Mr. S , and myself walked by the waggon. On arriving at the gate of the palace, the Guards "pre- sented Arms" as we passed; and up the steps of the palace the same. We were met at the entrance by Mr. Wylie — minister for Foreign Aff"airs — was for- mally introduced to him. We were then ushered into the audience-room; where were the King and his Chiefs; the heads of Departments; and also the Queen. The King and his Chiefs were dressed in full uniform; and they are fme-Iooking men. I intimated to Dr. Judd, minister of the Interior, my intention to make his Majesty a present of a sword. He seemed pleased, and recorded my name in a book, by request of the Ministers, and I went all over the palace; saw the State bed-chamber — the bed-stead was made by an American. There seemed to be no attempt at great magnificence or display throughout the palace. The building was recently erected, and planned by [81] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS the present Governor; and does much credit to his taste and ingenuity. The King formerly resided at Mowee; but this place, being of so much more im- portance, and visited so much more by Man-of-War and whale-ships, on account of the harbour, he about 5 months ago, removed here, and took the house. The Governor is very dignified, and calls upon me every day. Stout men, here, are held in great esteem and veneration; and I, for the first time in my life, feel a sort of pride in my corpulency. 26th Sept. Discharging cargo. Went to see the fort where the Governor Hves and where all the courts are generally held. It is a miserable concern, taken under the head of fortification; there are about 60 or 70 guns mounted — all wornout things ; and the carriages rot- ten and dropping to pieces. They are of all shapes and sizes. The fort is of a circular form; here also is the prison. Took tea and spent the evening at the Mansion House — a very good house, and they have a good table. Sent a sword to the King, with a note to the Minister of the Interior. ijtb Sept. The Polynesian Government paper came out with a notice of my presentation to His Majesty. Received an answer to my communication of yesterday. Took [82] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS on board about 6 tons of ballast, and continued to discharge cargo. Spent the evening with Mr. Stephen Reynolds — the English Consul was there — and I was entertained with a real tirade of abuse of the government, and all the heads of departments; and such a setting out as they gave them, I never heard. 2Sth Sept. Went on shore to the seamen's Bethel church, and heard Mr. S ; rather a singular discourse on the free agency of Man. Dined at the house of Mr. J. J. Jarvis. 2gth Sept. Discharging cargo — sold Mr. Reynolds 3 cases of goods for $1300. payable on or before Oct. 13th in good whalemen's dft. Spent the evening at the house of Mr. Grimes. Mrs. G is a daughter of P. E. Webster of Salem. 2nd Oct. Finished discharging cargo. Spent the evening at Mr. C. Brewer's and took tea. Their family consists of himself and wife — a daughter of Rev. Mr. Turner; Mr. and Mrs. Charles Brewer, Jr.; an old lady by name of Mrs. Moore, and Mr. and Mrs. Marshall. They have a fine house for this place, and live in good style. Lieut. Watson, bearer of dispatches to the C83] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS Commodore, arrived from the U.S., having left Nor- folk 6th July. He says the U.S. is in a very pros- perous state, and money plenty. He brings news of the death of General Jackson, and of the appointment of Louis Mc.Lane, as special minister to England to settle the Oregon question. Texas, he thinks, will become independent as Mexico seems willing; rather than be annexed to the U.S. ^rd Oct. Spent the evening at Mr. Hall's — the secular agent for the Am. Mission. 4tb Oct. Hauled ship into the stream. Attended the auction sale of some of my goods, which sold very low — postponed the sale till Monday as they had not time to finish. Came on board early being tired and beat out. Sth Oct. Went to the Native Church, and heard Mr. Arm- strong hold forth in the native language. The King, Chiefs, and Governor, attend this church — a large church with 2 tiers of windows, but no galleries except that for the choir, which consists of natives; and of course they sing in their own language. In the after- noon, went on horse-back to the Pari — a precipice [84] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS about 6 miles from town. The latter part of the ride up is very dangerous, being very circuitous and rough in some places — just room enough for the horse to pass, and the ridges, which make the road hilly, are very steep. I was somewhat frightened. I am most jolted to death, and feel sore enough, and I suppose I shan't get over the ride for some time. 6tb Oct. Painted the outside of the ship on larboard side. 2nd mate ran away, and left his clothes and 4 months pay. Dined at the fort with the Governor. Had quite a good dinner and served up in very good style. 7th Oct, Painted starboard side of ship. Dined on shore. Sth Oct. Dined with Mr Grimes and family. Took tea at the Mansion House. gtb Oct. Busy settling freight bills, etc. on shore. Had an auction this evening, and closed sales of all my knick- knacks at a great loss from Invoice — it was however a consignment. C85] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS iith Oct. Heavy rain and sharp lighting. Had 5 gentlemen to dine, and we had quite a fine dinner, and a good time. At 5 p.m. all went on shore, and passed the remainder of the day in-doors; it being too wet and disagreeable without. i^tb Oct. Breakfasted and dined on board Chenamus of New- buryport. Very busy settling my business — collect- ing bills, etc. iSth Oct. I shall be ready to put to sea in the morning. En- gaged to take Mr. F. B. Maur to Manila for %'/§. — he is a Frenchman. 16th Oct. At II , went on board with my specie, and the pilot. Made sail, cast off, and proceeded out of the harbour. 24.th Oct. I never saw flying-fish so large and numerous as they have been since we left Oahu — number of tropic and other birds around. [86] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS 28th Oct. Busy writing letters as usual, and endeavoring to amuse myself as well as I can; but it seems very tedious; although I have a young man for passenger, and he is very pleasant and good. i^th Nov. Saw Richmond Islands. They appear, at this bearing — 6 miles — like 3 islands; but there are rocks be- tween the two largest; they are all rock, and all that is seen about them that looks like vegetation, is a little verdure on the largest and western one. They are very remarkable, and the south-west part of the western one, has a hole right through the land, and very much resembles the Natural Bridge of Virginia. There is also a very small cove north of the hole, with a kind of small stone beach. About | way on the west part of the island, is what appears to be the mouth of a very large cave, and must be a great curiosity. Bound for Manila, it is best to pass to the southward. There is a good channel on both sides of them. iStb Nov. At 2 P.M. was boarded by a gun-boat, which brought a list of vessels for me to insert mine — it tells where from, where bound, cargo, etc. At 6 anchored in Manila Roads. C87] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS 20th Nov. At 8 A.M. was visited by the Capt. of the Port, and the custom house concern. They require a bill of health; and if there is none, the Capt. must write a certificate of the health of the place he last left. They also want a crew's list, or rather a copy of the Roll, and a list of passengers. list Nov. Agreed with a woman to supply ship with fresh meat, which it seems customary to have once in two days. Beef is 5 cts. a lb. Deposited my register with the consul, Mr. Sturgis, and passed the day reading papers, etc. 22nd Nov. Wrote home by a vessel bound to Singapore to meet the Overland Mail. The Feast of Santa Cruz com- mences to-day; and this evening a great illumination, and display of fireworks. For myself, I shall not go to see it before tomorrow. 2^rd Nov. Had a call from Capt. Somes of Gloucester, who has been in this country 36 years. I was glad to see him, and he on his part, seemed highly so, and I must say it seemed really good to sit down and talk [88] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS with a person about my native town. He stayed with me 4I hours, and our tongues were going pretty well. I shall go to his house soon. Dined with Mr. E , of the house of Peele, Hubbell, & Co. There was quite a pleasant party. In the evening, went to the feast of Santa Cruz, and saw quite a display of il- luminations and fire-works. Saw many pretty women. 24.tb Nov. British ship. Mermaid, in coming into the Bay this morning got aground on Cavill's Island. She is from China. I cannot make up my mind what to do — whether to load here or go to China. Sold my clocks — 4^ dollars — for brass, and $i| for wooden ones. Clocks are a dull article. iSth Nov. Went to see the women embroider the Pina in the evening, and spent remainder of evening at Peele, Hubbell, «& Co., where we had a concert of native musicians. i2tb Dec. Ship Farwell went to sea this evening — wrote to my owners by her. Had quite a curious party at our house this evening — jugglers, dancing girls, etc. [89] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS i^th Dec. Brought the ship nearer in shore to load for home. Wrote to Oliphant & Co., Canton, and remitted them $500. to purchase me some things at Canton. 14th Dec. Went to see the place where the natives fight game- cocks, and it is really barbarous. i§th Dec. Discharged 2 cascos of ballast from the ship, and got ready to receive some cargo. Took on board one casco of sapanwood. ijth Dec. Took into the ship 4 cascos sugar. iSth Dec. Took out all the ballast and sent off another casco sugar and sapanwood. 22nd Dec. Took on board remainder of 125 tons sugar and 70 bales hemp. C90] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS 2$th Dec. Christmas holidays commence — nothing doing at the custom house for a number of days, which will hinder me considerable. igth Dec. Stupidly dull — every day the same. I am tired and sick of the place — every day the same. ^ist Dec. Last day of the year. Played whist in the evening. Received 3 invitations to dine tomorrow. Shall take up with the first — Mr. Butler's. 1st Jan. 1846 New Year. I wish my friends all a happy one. Dined with Mr. Butler — had a good dinner and good company. 2nd Jan. Employed on board taking in hemp etc. self on shore settling business. Sth Jan. Finished loading and got all ready for sea. C9O JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS 6tb Jan. Settled all my business on shore; and at 5 p.m. went on board, but not liking the time to go to sea, came immediately back again — to pass the night with friends. 7tb Jan. At 7 went on board in company with Capt. Keating; and immediately got under weigh; but there was so little wind, the ship would scarcely steer — made out to get outside the shipping in the Roads. 17th Jan. Spoke the clipper ship, Montauk, of New York, — Capt. Michael — 10 days from Canton for New York. The Capt. informed me that there were no freights to be had there for the U.S., which makes me bless my stars that I concluded to load at Manila. She beat me sailing, of course. Saw Camel's Island, Saddle Island, then St. Julian Island. list Jan. Passed several floating trees, which appeared very tall, and I took them to be vessels for some time after they appeared in sight. C92] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS 2^rd Jan. Spoke Portuguese Brig, Emma, of Lisbon from Macoa for Bombay — i6 days. 6tb Febr. I am reading "Amy Herbert" — a very pretty story for children, and which I recommend for the perusal of my children. It contains very good precepts and principles — although they are a good deal orthodox — for instance that of infant baptism. It is, no doubt, a very proper ordinance, but I cannot beheve in it to the extent which is set forth in the book. The book on the whole, is adapted well to the minds of the young, for whom it was intended. 30 days out. 8th Febr. Sunday. I am to-day reading my Bible as usual. Have begun again at Genesis, which is a very in- teresting history; but Exodus and Leviticus are not very interesting or edifying. I just scan them over a little. Time seems tedious, but fond anticipations of home is a great consolation. gtb Febr. This is the most tedious day I have had for the pas- sage, as we have made no progress on our way, I am now rumaging over old newspapers — a file of which C93] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS I have on board from Dec. to March, 1844 & 55 ^^^ as I had no time to hear or read about what was going on during my absence at that time — find some news, and them very interesting. I wish I had the Gloucester "Telegraph" for the whole of last year. Have made, this day, just 13 miles on our way. 14th Febr. This is the greatest day's work we have made this passage and I think we are getting along finely. i^th Febr. Sunday. This is even a better day's work than yes- terday. As usual, on the Sabbath, I am reading the Bible. The first book of Samuel is tolerably interest- ing, as it commences the history of Saul and David; the friendship between David and Jonathan, etc. i6th Febr. A ship in sight to the Northward, standing the same way with us. Exchanged colors with the Bark, which proves to be English, and we are near enough to make her to sail from Liverpool, but cannot yet make out her name. We sail as near ahke as can be. This is the best day's work yet. C 94 ] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS lyth Febr. Made the bark out to be the Socrates of Liverpool — exchanged signals with him. 22nd Febr. Sunday. This, then, is the i6th anniversary of my marriage — my wedding-day — an event to every one; which changes his whole character — an era the great- est in his Hfe. What a great change it makes in the whole business of a man's life! At once, from the careless young man, he assumes the responsibility of the head of a family. Before, he knew nothing of the care of any but himself; but now his better-half — the promised sharer of his joys and sorrows must be cared for; he becomes another man; his reflecting powers are exercised, and he feels all the importance of the husband. In his expenditures, now, he must not be so prodigal, for in process of time, additions to his family will at times occur, which will of course increase his domestic expenses. "'Tis sweet to toil for those we love," and the task is never great or hard for a man to toil for the benefit of his family. If the change is so great and sudden to man, what must it be to fond, confiding woman! She enters at once upon the duties of a wife. How arduous a task! How great the obligation! She leaves the home of her childhood, where, in innocence and vir- C95] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS tue, she has been free from care, and happy in the society of her beloved parents, brothers, and sisters. She leaves all that, and throws herself under the pro- tection of her husband — a man, who has sworn to cherish, love, and protect her. She has promised to love, honor, and obey him — these words are respon- sively breathed to the God of Heaven. His Mercy and Blessing they invoke for the performance of their vows. She then puts herself under the protection of a man, in whom she confides. She gives up all she holds dear in life to him. He is to her all in all — her Alpha and Omega. She looks up to him for happiness and support. She has left a father's house — a home, where she was free from care, and now she expects to be provided for. To him she looks for sympathy and love, which to her are her Heaven upon earth. She is satisfied with her lot, and paints in dreams the fairy-land of a happy future. She thinks not of clouds, that may occasionally intervene to perhaps interrupt their happiness for a moment; although she knows, and can see from her own observation, that even on the sunny shores of life, some dark clouds will occasionally overshadow — for how impossible it is that perpetual brightness should reign in any quarter — "O'er her young heart a spell is cast. His power upon her soul has past." C96] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS Woman's heart truly is the seat of all that is lovely, affectionate, and kind; she endures pain and suffering with fortitude and patience. How different is man, although more calculated by Nature to bear pain! True, he can bear fatigue and hardship better, but where is that amiable, uncomplaining temperament? The soul of my Kfe, and star of my happiness — together we have jogged on with as few intervening clouds as falls to the lot of mortals; if some dark shade has occasionally appeared in the firmament of our happiness, a slight air, or breath, has dissipated it, ere it was scarcely visible. Talk of youthful love and happiness in the early part of marriage — I find my love and affection increases as I grow older. I become more attached to the object of my early at- tachment. I feel more and more that she is indis- pensable to my happiness. We have been blessed by Almighty God with 4 lovely children — they, too, add a strengthening tie to our wedded fehcity. She is everything as a wife, and she fulfils the duty of Mother with unutterable thought and devotion. How holy and sincere is the love of a Mother for her chil- dren — there is no love like it. All the memories and aspirations of my wife and children, cause me to bless God for his Mercy, so abundantly extended to me. How deeply is every man's Kfe involved in the events which his marriage produces — perhaps more so than by any combination of circumstances, which he can possibly experience; [97] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS therefore, it seems to me that there is no anniversary, fraught with so much interest, and such tender recol- lections, as that of our wedding-day. We do not feel so much, that every year makes us so much older, as when we arrive at each anniversary of our birth. Perfect happiness, it is said, is not the lot of mortals; but I, in my married life, have seen as much happi- ness as falls to the lot of any one. I am a firm believer in youthful love; or love in the ear y part of marriage; and I also believe in the increase of love and affection — from experience — the longer we live together. I must here quote from "The Neighbor" an ex- tract, which accords pretty near to my opinion — "If you wish to learn the true value of marriage; if you wish to see what this union may be for two hu- man hearts, and for life; then observe not the wedded ones in their honey-moon; nor by the cradle of their first child; nor at a time when novelty and hope yet throw a morning glory over the young and new-born world of home; but survey them rather in the more remote years of manhood, when they have proved the world and each other; when they have con- quered many an error, and many a temptation, in order to become only the more united to each other; when labor and cares are theirs; when, under the burden of the day, as well as in hours of repose, they support one another, and find that they are sufficient for each other. Or survey them still further in Hfe; C98] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS see them arrived at that period, when the world, with all its changes and agitations, rolls far away from them ; when every object around them, becomes ever dimmer to them; when their house is still; when they are soHtary; but yet stand hand in hand, and each reads in the other's eyes only love; when they, with the same memories and the same hopes, stand on the boundaries of another hfe, into which they are pre- pared to enter; of all the desires of their being — retaining only the one — that they may die on the same day. — Yet then behold them! **0h, give to me the lowhest forest flower Which mine own hand, fresh from its virgin stem, Hath plucked, before the brightest fairest gem That ever graced the garden or the bower, If it hath bloomed upon another's breast! So with the heart of Woman ! — I could see No charm in e'en an angel's witchery If by another she had been caressed. Oh give to me some simple village maid. The pure endearments of whose artless love I first may waken, and alone may prove; Who ne'er hath been, or hath herself betrayed Give me with her, remote from cities rude. To Kve and die in sylvan solitude." How pleasant are the thoughts of my dear home; everything, which memory cherishes, brings with it its [99] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS pleasing reminiscences. I do not think more of my wife and family on such anniversaries than I do every day; but I am more apt to commit my thoughts to paper. May God, the Father Almighty, be with, and bless with health and comfort my dear wife and chil- dren. May He ever hold them in his protecting care. I know, Oh Eternal God, how many obhgations we are under to Thee; for which wilt Thou make us thankful. Although every anniversary of our mar- riage, makes us another year older; yet we do not feel so sensibly the advance, as we do on our birth- day, when every association brought with it, reminds us of the flight of time, and of course tells us that we have proceeded another year on our journey of life. The period of youth is considered by most every one as happy and joyous. I look back on the retro- spect with pleasure; happy indeed, most happy is the memory of those years; but still I look upon my wedding-day as the birthday of my real and substan- tial happiness — the anniversary of that day com- memorates all that is pleasant and satisfactory. All other friends may forsake us; but to the wife we look as our sure, and ever abiding consolation — "A friend that sticketh closer than a brother." She alone is the one on whom we can depend with confidence and sincerity, in the hour of adversity. She is in- terested, because our welfare is hers; our prosperity hers. She can sympathize, because half the benefits of prosperity, and half the troubles of adversity are [lOO] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS hers. In fine then, the married life is the only per- manently happy one in this hfe; especially to a per- son of my temperament, who values Hfe only in pro- portion to the enjoyment and pleasure, which it gives. We should then endeavor to embrace what gives us the most solid and rational pleasure. Oh, Eternal Father in Heaven, wilt Thou ever be with the partner of my bosom; wilt Thou keep her in health, and grant her pure and undefiled religion; and grace and health to sustain her, to bring up the objects of her charge, to thine approbation! Oh, Sovereign Dis- poser of the Universe, wilt Thou be with our dear children — the objects of our love — ; wilt Thou in- still into their young heart their duty to parents; and their whole duty, according to Thy dictates; wilt Thou cause them to seek the path of Virtue, and avoid that of vice; and to be good children, such as are accepted of the Lord. yth March Saw pieces of coral. Put a hook on, but got no fish. I believe deep-water fish are not exceedingly plenty here, as I have never caught any. Saw some Gannets, or Loland Geese; but have not yet seen a Cape Pigeon. Sth March Had a fine roast turkey for dinner, and it was really cooked to a charm — quite like home. I have a very strong "penchant" for turkey — no better eating. [lOl] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS II fib March Killed the old sow, which I brought from Boston, and I should think she weighed over 200 lbs. Salted the fresh pork — all but the head, feet and spare ribs. I believe I am now fairly around the Cape; and thus far have had a fair passage. 63 days out. 22nd March Sunday. Reading the Book of Job to-day, which I must say is very interesting — although an Allegory. Roast turkey for dinner. Again see flying-fish — not a bird in sight. 2^rd March Took 6 or 7 squids from the channels — probably driven from their element by the flying-fish. 28th March All hands employed scrubbing ship, and getting ready for painting. 3i5f March Painting inside, and the Mindoro begins to display her charms. [102] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS 2nd Apr. We have gotten pretty well along with getting the ship to rights; all but painting the outside, and I think the chance for doing much of that is very doubtful. I hope, however, to paint her bulwarks — the ship is very deep in the water; the white streak is not much more than a foot above it; but she really, in symmetry and grace, now seems like Haidee in Byron's Don Juan. Nearly everything is in order about the ship, and we are making very fair progress on our way. After all, there is a satisfaction being at sea — although at times, in these long tedious voyages — a very melancholy one. gtb Apr. Thank Heaven, we are across the Equinoctial hne, and it begins to seem as if we were in our own home waters again. 92 days out. II fib Apr. Quite busy painting outside, and I think have done all that we shall be able to do — but she looks all the better for that. i6th Apr. Had the last turkey for dinner. Roast turkey is in- deed very fine but I think I could tire of it — as I do C103] ' JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS of fresh meat generally; and of every thing and every body on board; these long voyages are enough to wear a man out; and every year, I think, makes him 3 years older, or adds as many to the catalogue of existence. 2§th Apr. Near noon, an eclipse of the sun commenced. All hands employed scraping, painting, and varnishing the ship. 2ytb Apr. Spoke Brig Allen, of Scituate, lo days from Boston — for Porto Rico. The Capt. told me if I would send my boat, he would give me some newspapers. I hoped he would send them, as I had gotten my boat in fine order, and did not wish to move her; he told me he had painted his the day before, or he would get her out; if I would lay by a little, he continued, he would run close to me, and throw some papers on board; he accordingly, came close to me and threw a bundle of papers, which struck the bulwarks, and went overboard. One of my men immediately jumped overboard, and recovered them. It is needless to say they were read with great eagerness; although they did not seem to con- tain much news. The Capt., however, took great pains for me to have them, for which, I manifested to him my thanks — he is a noble fellow. [104] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS 2Stb Apr. Busy myself reading the news — only 1 1 days ago dated. Quite a number of disasters — Congress de- bating about Oregon; boundery of Texas not settled; army on the Frontier; large Naval force in the Gulf of Mexico, etc. nth May We saw the land — Cape cod light-house. 124 days out. C105] Description of Honolulo — the princi- pal TOWN OF Oahu, Sandwich Islands, 1845. Honolulo is situated on the south side of the island — about 5 miles to the westward of Diamond Point. The harbor is formed by a reef on each side of the entrance — which channel is about 500 ft. wide. The reefs on both sides are frequently entirely dry at low water; and the sea always breaks over them. It is best to be off the mouth of the harbor early in the morning, as then it is generally calm; and ships can be then towed in — that, and tracking in by the natives, are the only ways of getting into port ; as the trade-winds blow right out of the mouth of the har- bor. By hoisting the tack forehead, a pilot will al- ways be at hand, who has $1 pr. foot. The harbor is capable of holding about 50 sail of ships. This is the most important seaport in the North Pacific. In the harbor are 4 wharves — Robinson's, Ladd's, Rey- nold's, and Skinner's; the former is the largest, situ- ated on the eastern part of the harbor, and used entirely as a place for heaving out ships, and a ship- yard generally. The others, for landing goods, where [106] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS ships can lie afloat all the time, loaded — indeed, the conveniences for landing goods, are as good as I ever saw. The outer road is not considered very safe; as they have to anchor in about 20 fathoms, and the bank of soundings very steep. There are some very good store houses here, built of coral, with slate, or shingled roofs. Brewer & Co. have the best, and Grimes the next. Grimes, and also his wholesale store, is adjoining Ladd's wharf, and I think is the best stand for business in town. The American consul, Mr. A , has his office a few rods up the street from the wharf. He has just succeeded Mr. H ; and my ship was the first merchant, that deposited his papers with him. He seems to mean to do what is right, and sticks close to the law, which he has at his elbow always in his office. He is about 28 years old, and is a native of Kentucky. The only thing he has done to merit his office in a pohtical point of view, is having been a clerk in one of the departments at Washington — how much and how loud he has hurrahed for Polk, I have never heard. In the main, however, he seems very well. This place was governed by what is called a British Commission, for about a year — during all that time, Lord G P , of the British Frigate, Caryford, hved on shore, to take out the commission — during that time, the English flag was hoisted at the fort. C 107] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS Admiral T arrived in the Dublin Frigate, and on the 31st of July, 1843, the Hawain flag, by his permis- sion, was again restored to its legitimate place — since which time, the government has assumed a new aspect. The King has removed from the fort to the palace, which was lately built for the purpose. He has now, in addition to his old government, of chiefs. Dr. Judd — formerly Am. missionary — minister of State for the interior affairs; John Ricord — a young laiwyer from N. Y. — Attorney General; R. C. Wylie, — a Scotch- man — formerly English consul — Secretary of State for Foreign aflFairs; L. Andrews — formerly Am. mis- sionary — Judge of the Supreme Court; Charles Hop- kins — a young Englishman — stenographer. J. J. Jarvis, of Boston, Government Printer; Robert Boyd — an American — High Sheriff. It is expected that Boyd will be removed to make room for Henry Lea — lately English consul — and Boyd be Superintendent of Hotels and Groggeries. Francis Funk — a physi- cian — Deputy Sheriff. Although the above offices have been made within 2 years, and they all have taken the oath of allegiance. I omitted to mention above — Mr. Paty, an Am. shipmaster. Collector of the Customs; D. P. Penhallow — also a shipmaster from Portsmouth N. H. — Harbor Master, and Pilot; John Meek — also an Am. shipmaster — Pilot — these all come under the allegiance. The salary of the minister of the Interior, I believe, is $3000.; Sec. of State for Foreign affairs, $2000.; C108] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS Attorney Gen. $1500. The others, I have not heard anything said of. The Supreme Court for all the islands sits at Honolulo. The Governor, Kekuanoa, was formerly Judge; but the Executive thought it best to have an American, to satisfy the foreign resi- dents. The Courts are all held at the fort — the residence of the Governor. The fort commands the entrance to the harbor, and is on the eastern side; and has about 60 guns of all sizes, shapes, and con- ditions; mounted on old, miserably decayed carriages. This is also the prison. There is another small fort, on what is called Punch Bowl Hill. Previous to the restoration of the flag, the Government was adminis- tered by the King and his chiefs; and they, up to that time, are notorious for habits of intemperance and debauchery. The King and his chiefs would go into a common sailor groggery, and get drunk, and carouse, and quarrel with the sailors. I am told that the taste of the King and his chiefs has not materially changed for liquor — as they frequently have a pri- vate drunk; although they have all signed the pledge. The King, however, preserves more dignity of charac- ter than before. He has Levies once a week — Thursdays — at the palace. I have been rather more fortunate than my country-men, generally; as I was presented in due form, at a time set by the King, himself. I accord- ingly^ arranged myself in court dress — black, of course — , and went to the palace, in company with [109] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS Mr. A , Am. Consul, and lady; and Mr. Stevens — Naval Store-keeper — and lady. On arriving at the gate of the palace at the ap- pointed hour, and as we passed through, the guards "presented arms." Arriving at the palace steps, we were met by Mr. Wylie, — Sec. of State for Foreign affairs — ; who then ushered us into the Audience- room, and formally introduced us to the King, all the Chiefs, heads of the departments, and Ladies of the Court. They were all in their best attire. The King, etc. were in full uniform; the Chiefs were fine looking men; — Parker, in particular, who is 6 ft. 7 in. high, and every way proportioned. The Governor is a fine figure; and said to be very intelligent. After the ceremony of presentation, we promenaded around the room, and talked with the ladies. Chiefs, etc. I was quite at home, as there was not a person there, with whom I had the least acquaintance; and I must say I received much attention; — if anything, more than the Consul and Ladies — I am fond of attention — and, indeed, passed an hour and a half very pleasantly. We were each requested to record our names in a book, which they handed us; to which we acceded. The bed-room, or State-chamber, has a bed-stead of mahogany, after the fashion of common American high post bed-steads — the posts, handsomely carved. The bed-stead was very large, — I should think 8 ft. by 10. The coverlid was brought from China; and [no] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS cost them $ioo. — made of blue silk — handsomely wrought. The palace is a very neat building, about 20 ft. high; — of one story, with a cupola on top, and pillars all round the lower part. The Government of the Sandwich Islands is an ab- solute Monarchy — the supreme authority is heredi- tary. Hereditary rank and authority are not confined to the male sex; but are inherited by the females, who are generally very discreet and intelligent in their management of affairs; and very quick at perception. Among the Natives there are 4 distinct classes of society. The highest rank includes the King, Queen, and all the branches of the reigning family — it also includes the chief counsellor; or minister of the King, who, though inferior by birth, is, by office and au- thority, superior to the Queen and other members of the Royal family. There are 4 churches in this place — one Bethel, built of coral and wood. It is a pretty good building, and under the pastoral charge of Rev. S. C. Damon. Here, all the strangers and foreign residents attend worship; and it is generally well attended. The King's Chapel, under the pastoral care of Rev. Mr. Arm- strong, is a native church, built of coral, and well at- tended. This is a very large church, and the King and his Chiefs worship here. I went there one Sab- bath — and such an array of ladies' dresses, I never saw — some of the women with a satin dress and bare-footed. Some of the men with trousers and no [in] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS coat; and some with coat and no trousers. It was communion day, and there was a great many of the natives, who partook of the Sacrament. This church and land are inclosed by a mud wall; and in the eastern part of the church, is a sort of cemetery, where a number of missionaries and their families are buried. There is one native church, under the charge of Rev. A. B. Smith. This is built of straw, and is well attended, and is the first house of worship that was built at Honolulo. The fourth is a Roman Catholic church, built of coral and is large, and is quite a fine edifice. It is under the charge of Abbe Meigret, who is called Prefet ApostoHc, and two resident priests — it is said to be well attended, and to have cost $35,000. There are 2 printing presses here — one belonging to the mission. The other is the Government press, under the direction of J. J. Jarvis, who is also the editor of the "Polynesian" government paper. The "Friend" — a semi-monthly paper, is printed at this office — S. C Damon, editor. The "Cascade," a small temperance paper, is also printed here — S. C. Damon, and others, editors. It comes out monthly. There are about 3 hotels here. The Mansion House, kept by Carter & Thompson, is the best, and is a very good house as far as it goes; they set a very good table; but have no accommodation for lodgers; they charge $6. per week for board alone. There is a bar connected with this establishment, at which there is a great deal of hquor drank. This house is only [112] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS frequented by Ship-Masters, officers of the Navy, and resident merchants. The French hotel is a poor con- cern. The Canton Hotel is another of the same stamp; besides these, there are some sailor grog shops, and boarding houses, which they dignify with the name of Hotel. There are 1 3 wholesale and retail stores, and 1 1 retail stores. There are 2 auctioneers — all of these people have to pay a quarterly Hcense, which is quite a tax. The Mansion House pays $37^ per Quarter. The Americans, English, and French, have each a hospital here. At the Am. Hospital, for board and attendance, $3^ per week. The premises of the Am. Mission are pretty extensive, and there are generally about 15 or 16 missionaries, with their families, re- siding here. They certainly are entitled to the credit of being the first to advance civilization in these Islands. Since 1820, it has progressed very rapidly. There are a number of Missionary Stations, Schools, etc. at each of these islands. The climate of Oahu is not good for those laboring under pulmonary, asthmatic, or rheumatic condi- tions; but in other respects, it is very healthy. The heat never oppresses, except in the sun; and there never is a time when a person cannot keep cool, if he has a mind. One of the greatest curiosities of the Island, is what is called "the Pari" by the natives (precipice) — it is about 7 or 8 miles north of Honolulo, through Nuani JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS Valley. At the top of the precipice, is seen a beauti- ful view of gardens, etc. and the sea to the north; and I must say, the variety of scenery, here presented, is extremely beautiful and picturesque. The King's country residence is about half way be- tween the town, and the Pari. There are many tales of the marvellous told here by the natives; all of which are given by Ellis, in his "Polynesian Re- searches," Vol. I. — a most excellent work. The fruits of the island consist of pine-apples, oranges, limes, and most of the fruits common to tropical climates. The native apple has not much taste; but is very refreshing. Strawberries and rasp- berries also grow very large. Water-melons are very abundant, and the best I ever saw. They have very good beef, for which we pay 6 cts. per lb. — fowls $3 per doz.; turkeys — 50 cts. to $1. apiece; potatoes, of which the greater part are raised in Mani, generally range from $if to $3. per Bbl.; sweet potatoes, about 75 cts. a Bbl.; ducks, 50 cts. apiece. The flour, which they consume, is brought principally from Chili and Columbia River. Most all the necessaries of life can be had here at a reasonable rate. The best fish is the mullet, kept in the ponds of the chiefs, and fattened; and they are indeed de- licious. I dined, one day, with the Governor, and we had a good dinner — served up in our own style. The Gov- ernor's wife — his second — , to whom he had been [114] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS married but a few weeks, sat at table on his right; and he frequently reminded her about holding her knife, fork, and spoon, etc. She is about 17 years old, and is pretty good looking, and very straight. All his children by his first wife, are nobly descended; their mother being noble. The eldest is now Heir- Apparent to the throne. A great many, who have signed the temperance pledge, think it no sin to once in about 3 or 4 months, have a real drunk, which lasts some of them 3 or 4 weeks; and they keep drunk all the time. C"5] Description of Manila ■ — Its Inhabit- ants. 1846. Manila Bay is about the finest in the world — most anywhere in it there is anchorage; and the only obstruction in it is St. Nicholas Shoal, which is easily avoided. In coming in, it is best to go between the Haycock and Corregidor, and thence on between the latter, and the North Shore. From Corregidor, which is the entrance, to Manila, is about 24 miles. After coming to anchor, the health boat, and cus- tom house boat come off — they examine bill of health, and take note of the cargo; and that is pretty much all. The Capt. cannot go ashore till they give him permission; which they immediately do after they have examined the papers. At Corregidor, there is a telegraph, which communi- cates with Manila. A boat generally comes off from there, and gets the report; she leaves and goes back to the shore; the signal is there made describing the rig of the ship, the flag, number of crew, etc., which intelhgence gets to Manila 15 or 20 minutes after. 2 custom house officers are put on board as soon as the ship arrives and remain until the ship is ready to depart. They eat in the cabin, and it is pohcy to C116] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS keep well with them, as many little things with which they have to do, may be wanted as favors; and it is customary to make them a present of a few dollars on leaving — like the mother-country, a great deal is done by bribery at the custom-house. Here is a fine canal, where large ships go to heave down and repair — it is the best place for that in the whole East Indies. The cost to caulk and copper a ship here would, I think, be about the same as Bos- ton. Copper is much dearer at Manila; but the cheapness of labor would nearly make up for it, I think. The pay of caulkers to work in the canal is 50 cts. a day, and the master |i. — in the Bay, 75 cts., and the master, $1.50. Sail making is also done very well here, and with despatch. Of the ship carpenters, I can say but Httle; but I think them to be very ordi- nary and slow; if I can judge from what I saw there. They are principally natives, or Mustesas. The Mus- tesas are the off-spring of Spaniards and native In- dians; but what would be called in Calcutta half- caste. Blacksmithing seems to be the worst part of ship work; there are 2 or 3 Americans here who pre- tend to do that business, but they are not sufficiently attentive to it; but seem to partake a good deal in the indolence, which is customary with people of this country. Manila City is the capital of Luzon; one of the largest of the Phihppine Islands, and the seat of the C117] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS Spanish Government in the East. It is large and con- venient for trade — the country around producing indigo, sugar, tobacco, hemp for cordage, etc. Sugar and hemp are the greatest articles of export to the U .S.; but the inhabitants around are indolent, and not wilHng to do much to cultivate the ground to raise these articles unless they are paid in advance. During the months of June, July, and August, the heat is intense; and the air is rendered impure by noxious exhalations, arising from the swampy land around; those things, together with much and con- tinued rains at times, produce febrile complaints; and this is considered the sickly season. Water can be had very expeditiously by hiring a casco for $5., which will carry from 16 to 18 tons; and send her about 2 or 3 miles up the river; they go one day and come back early the next morning. It is about as good water as I have ever seen, and keeps well at sea. Astonishing that the families in Manila and suburbs should drink rain-water in preference. Wood is pretty good here, and not very high; but of all things that surprised me most was that they raise no potatoes here, when it might be done so easily on the sides of the mountains; indeed almost all vegetables are scarce here — potatoes almost as dear as gold-dust. The pumpkins are small but pretty good — sweet potatoes tolerable — yams, dear; fowls about $2. per doz. generally — capons $6. pigs reason- able; muscovy duck $6.; eggs 12 cts. doz. indeed C118] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS poultry is very abundant. Wild ducks are sometimes about for sale, and are very fine eating; oysters are pretty good flavor; but they have a greenish, un- healthy appearance. The beef generally is very poor; although I have seen some tolerably fair. There are some very fine fish — mullet and many others. The turkeys here are very good, and some large at $i. apiece; but turkey, to me, in hot chmates, does not taste so good as in cold. I did not see a great variety of fruit there. Oranges and bananas seemed to be the principal ones -^ both very fine. They have the mango in the season, which is the most dehcious fruit I know of; cocoanuts are also abundant. There is some very beautiful and romantic scenery at and about Manila — on the river. The Cabrada is the great resort for a drive towards evening; here is found all the gentry of the city; and among the rest, the Ship-masters — particularly American, who all keep their carriages. This seems to be the only relief they have from the fatigues of a hot, sultry day — to drive to the Cabrada, and around the country to breathe the soft, inspiring breeze of eventide. Near the point of the canal near the beach, the Americans and Enghsh would generally make a halt. This is called Scandal Point, and the way we went into it — scandal — is a caution. I would not be understood by any means that is the only place, where scandal holds her court; for it can be found almost anywhere in Manila. [119] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS The place to see the beauties of Manila is at the Casena, or public-balls — some of them are very pretty. I said public ball; but it is not indeed public, but gotten up by subscribers, who are members, and they choose a president etc., for the year. On the whole it is well gotten up. Each member is allowed to invite 2 or 3 others. Of course, I was presented with a ticket. The population of these islands, under the dominion and allegiance of Spain, is about 4,000,000; but there are a great many wild negroes about the woods and mountains, who are perfectly savage, and never can be gotten at. I believe these islands were first visited by Magellan. The houses in the city are built after the style of the houses in Spanish cities; and everything about the buildings and streets are like Spanish European cities. The interior of the houses, however, differ a little to suit the climate — they being more spacious and airy. All the gardens of the merchants are situated on the margin of the different canals, and the cascos can go close to the doors to receive the goods — which is very convenient — in fact every facility for convenient business is here, except the custom house — which is certainly a great obstruction. In my opinion, if this were a free port, or only subject to a small export duty, it would greatly improve the busi- ness of the place, and add to its importance. China goods, in consequence of the high duty, are as high [120] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS as in Boston. There are several large stores in the Escoto — kept and owned by Chinamen, who are obhged to become Catholic, where china goods and other articles are sold; and there are a great many small shops all about the place. The foreign mer- chants hve near the water, in one of the suburbs of the city — the city proper being inclosed, and only entered by gates. This suburb is not so regularly built, but some parts are very pleasant. Here are 3 very large ship-chandler's stores, where most every- thing in that line can be had, and I think very reason- able — to each of these establishments, there is a boarding-house for masters — the masters of course expected to patronize the other establishment — board $45. a month — carriage $40. a month. There is another public-house here, called The Three Na- tions, which is exclusively a boarding-house, and pat- ronized by some masters, and foreigners generally — board $35. a month. The troops here seem to be well clothed, and under pretty good discipline. The garrison is said to be well fortified; having ditches and draw-bridges all around. The Cabrada, which I have mentioned be- fore, is a beautiful road, with a row of beautiful trees on each side, and all through the dry season, it is watered towards evening. The carriages are drawn by 2 horses — the pos- tilion, or coachman, rides the left-hand one; and it is always considered proper for the proprietor of the [121] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS carriage to sit behind the coachman. There is music every evening in good weather in front of the gov- ernor's palace, which is quite a spacious building, with a large square in front; in the centre of which is a monument, to whom or what I don't know. The cigar-factory is well worth seeing, and when in operation, there are 8000 females constantly employed of all ages. They, Hke the native women, generally wear a small thin chemise, coming down just below the breast; from thence, down to the feet, they have a piece of cloth wrapped round them. Their shoes have soles, and just enough of the upper leather to get 2 or 3 toes in. These females are of a copper color. At Cavite, there is another cigar-factory, employing 4000 females. The tobacco here is said to be the best in the world. They are very particular about making their cigars, and try them all by blowing through them. Like all Catholic countries, it is considered policy to keep the people in ignorance; here they observe all the Holidays, and it is certainly very pernicious to the natives, who enter heart and soul into all the mummeries. The Feast days, the natives spend their time in cock-fighting, which is a very favorite amuse- ment; for among the natives, almost every third one will be seen hugging one of these animals — carrying him to the cock-pit. There are 3 or 4 of these pits here, to one of which I went, and was quite disgusted with the place and the people. On the whole, the natives are infatuated with that worst of vices — [122] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS gambling; in which they spend much time, and all the money they can get. There is a rope-walk here for making patent cord- gage, owned by some people in Boston. They make good rope, and they ship a good deal to the U. S. and I beheve it is a very profitable affair; besides this, there are other places where common rope is made, which looks pretty well. The best sugar here is a httle inferior in quality to the Havana Brown. The molasses is considerably burnt, and costs about $if. per barrel. It is pretty fair, however. There are 2 Am. houses here which monopoHze all the hemp — Russell, Sturgis & Co. and Peele, Hub- bell & Co. — They have an understanding together about the division — each has one half. If one of them, or either of them, have 3 ships, or more; that half must be divided among the ships in just as many equal parts as there are ships. Mr. Henry P. Sturgis is a native of Boston, and is the Am. consul, and in my opinion, an honor to his country, and the office. He is deservedly very popular here amongst every- body — foreigners and natives. He seems to be a frank, open-hearted man, and much of a gentleman in his manners. He married an Enghsh lady of Cal- cutta. They five in good style, and entertain a good deal of company. In October, or early November every year, this place is visited by a Typhoon, or hurricane, which [123] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN SOLOMON H. DAVIS always does a great deal of damage. The last one was Nov. 3rd. The ship, Camera, of Boston, sailed that morning, and put back towards evening; and as she could not get to the anchorage in Manila Roads before it came on, anchored in the middle of the Bay, and that night he cut away his masts. He lay there from that time till Jan. loth before he was ready for sea again. No men are allowed to be discharged here, unless bonds are given for their good-behavior, and for their expenses. When they are discharged, they are sent away in some vessel — if possible to Canton, or else- where. I beheve the Protestants have no place of worship — no church — ; so Sunday seems to them like other days — only more devoted to amusements, of which there are few. The principal drink of the foreigners here is beer or ale; for which I substituted claret, as being in my opinion more wholesome. Beer $3. per doz.; claret $6. to $12., according to quality. Brandy is drank a great deal — they pretend the water is very unwhole- some without it; rather hot drink for the climate. Frogs, cow's heels and tails, are frequently served up on the tables — the two latter are in great esteem for soups, etc. There are fine radishes here. Goods are taken to and from ships in lighters — or cascos. The cascos carry 420 bags sugar or 125 bales hemp. [124]