Class _XXX15_ Book J) A GopyrightN" COF^IGHT DEPOSm WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. 4 Teaspoonfuls equal 1 tablespoonful liquid. 4 Tablespoonfuls equal 1 wineglass, or half a gill. 2 Wineglasses equal 1 gill, or half a cup. 2 Gills equal 1 coffee-cupful, or 16 tablespoonfuls. 2 Coffee-cupfuls equal 1 pint. 2 Pints equal 1 quart. 4 Quarts equal 1 gallon. 2 Tablespoonfuls equal 1 ounce, liquid. 1 Tablespoonful of salt equals 1 ounce. 16 Ounc?s equal 1 pound, or a pint of liquid. 4 Coffee-eupfuls of sifted flour equal 1 pound. 1 Quart of unsifted flour equals 1 pound. 8 or 10 ordinary sized eggs equal 1 pound. 1 Pint of sugar equals 1 pound. (White granulated.) 1 Tablespoonful of soft butter, well rounded, equals 1 ounce. An ordinary tumberful equals 1 coffee-cupful, or half a pint. About 25 drops of any thin liquid will fill a common-sized teaspoon. 1 Pint of finely chopped meat, packed solidly, equals one pound. A set of tin measures (with small spouts or lips), from a gallon down to half a gill, will be found very convenient in every kitchen ; though common pitchers, bowls, glasses, etc., may be substituted. THE ^3_ AMERICAN HOME ''"'^ COOK BOOK A VOLUME OF TESTED RECIPES EDITED BY GRACE E. DENISON AUTHORITY ON DOMESTIC' SCIENCE TOPICS AIDED BY OVER 150 SPECIAL CONTRIBUTORS NEW YORK BARSE & HOPKINS PUBLISHERS TX71S ,34- Copyright, 1913, by Barse & Hopkins / CONTENTS PAGE Soups 1 Fish 37 Meats 70 poxjltbt and game 108 Vegetables 148 Puddings and Sauces 185 Desserts, Custakds and Creams 227 Pastry, Pies and Tarts 254 Cakes 272 Bread and Muffins 310 Toast 341 Sandwiches 347 Eggs and Omelets 360 Salads 369 Pickles 388 Preserves, Jellies, etc 407 Candies 424 Chafing Dish Recipes 438 Beverages 449 Butter and Cheese 461 Miscellaneous 476 Dishes for the Sick 493 Toilet Recipes 511 Dinner Giving 516 Index 529 SOUPS Consomme, or Stock, forms the basis of all meat soups, and also of all principal sauces. It is, therefore, essential to the success of these culinary operations to know the most complete and economical method of extracting from a cer- tain quantity of meat the best possible stock or broth. Fresh uncooked beef makes the best stock, with the addition of cracked bones, as the glutinous matter contained in them renders it important that they should be boiled with the meat, which adds to the strength and thickness of the soup. They are composed of an earthy substance — to which they owe their solidity — of gelatine, and a fatty fluid, something like marrow. Two ounces of them contain as much gelatine as one pound of meat ; but in them, this is so encased in the earthy substance, that boiling water can dissolve only the surface of the whole bones, but by breaking them they can be dissolved more. When there is an abundance of it, it causes the stock, when cold, to become a jelly. The flesh of old animals contains more flavor than the flesh of young ones. Brown meats contain more flavor than white. Mutton is too strong in flavor for good stock, while veal, although quite glutinous, furnishes very little nutriment. Some cooks use meat that has once been cooked; this renders little nourishment and destroys the flavor. It might answer for ready soup, but for stock to keep it is not as good, unless it should be roasted meats. Those contain higher fragrant properties; so by putting the remains of roast meats in the stock-pot you obtain a better flavor. The shin bone is generally used, but the neck or "sticking piece," as the butchers call it, contains more of the sub- 1 2 SOUPS stance that you want to extract, makes a stronger and more nutritious soup than any other part of the animal. Meats for soup should always be put on to cook in cold water, in a covered pot, and allowed to simmer slowly for several hours, in order that the essence of the meat may be drawn out thoroughly, and should be carefully skimmed to prevent it from becoming turbid; never allow to boil fast at any time, and if more water is neded, use boiling water from the tea- kettle ; cold or lukewarm water spoils the flavor. Never salt it before the meat is tender (as that hardens and toughens the meat), especially if the meat is to be eaten. Take off every particle of scum as it rises, and before the vegetables are put in. Allow a little less than a quart of water to a pound of meat and bone, and a teaspoonful of salt. When done, strain through a colander. If for clear soups strain again through a hair sieve, or fold a clean towel in a colander set over an earthen bowl, or any dish large enough to hold the stock. As stated before, stock is not as good when made entirely from cooked meats, but in a family which requires a large joint roasted every day, the bones and bits and underdone pieces of beef, or the bony structure of turkey or chicken that has been left from carving, bones of roasted poultry, these all assist in imparting a rich dark color to soup, and would be sufficient, if stewed as above, to furnish a family, without buying fresh meat for the purpose; still, with the addition of a little fresh meat it would be more nutritious. In cold weather you can gather them up for several days and put them to cook in cold w^ater, and when done, strain, and put aside until needed. Soup will be as good the second day as the first if heated to the boiling point. It should never be left in the pot, but should be turned into a dish or shallow pan, and set aside to get cold. Never cover up, as that will cause it to turn sour very quickly. SOUPS s Before heating a second time, remove all the fat from the top. If this be melted in, the flavor of the soup will cer- tainly be spoiled. Thickened soups require nearly double the seasoning used for thin soups or broth. Coloring is used in some brown soups, the chief of which is brown burnt sugar, which is known as caramel by French cooks. Pounded spinach leaves give a fine green color to soup. Parsley, or the green leaves of celery, put in soup will serve instead of spinach. Pound a large handful of spinach in a mortar, then tie it in a cloth, and wring out all the juice ; put this in the soup you wish to color green, five minutes before taking it up. Mock turtle, and sometimes veal and lamb soups, should be this color. Okra gives a green color to soup. To color soup red, skin six red tomatoes, squeeze out the seeds and put them into the soup with the other vegetables — or take the juice only as directed for spinach. For white soups, which are of veal, lamb or chicken, none but white vegetables are used; rice, pearl barley, vermicelli, or macaroni for thickening. Grated carrot gives a fine amber color to soup ; it must be put in as soon as the soup is free from scum. HERBS AND VEGETABLES USED IN SOUPS Of vegetables the principal ones are carrots, tomatoes, asparagus, green peas, okra, macaroni, green corn, beans, rice, vermicelli, Scotch barley, pearl barley, wheat flourj mushroom or mushroom catsup, parsnips, beet-root, turnips, leeks, garlic, shalots, and onions; sliced onions fried with butter and flour until they are browned, then rubbed through a sieve, are excellent to heighten the. color and flavor of brown sauces and soups. The herbs usually used 4 SOUPS in soups are parsley, common thyme, summer savory, knotted marjoram, and other seasonings such as bay-leaves, tarragon, allspice, cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, mace, black and white pepper, red pepper, lemon-peel and juice, orange- peel and juice. The latter imparts a finer flavor and the acid is much milder. These materials, with wine, and the various catsups, combined in various proportions, are, with other ingredients, made into almost an endless variety of excellent soups and gravies. Soups that are intended for the principal part of a meal certainly ought not to be flavored like sauces, which are only intended to give relish to some particular dish. STOCK 6 lbs. of shin of beef, or 1 head of celery. 6 lbs. of knuckle of veal. 2 oz. of salt. Bones, trimmings of poul- ^ teaspoonful of whole pep- try, or fresh meat. per. 1 lb. of lean bacon or ham. 1 large blade of mace. 2 oz. of butter. 1 bunch of savory herbs ex- 2 large onions, each stuck cept sage. with cloves. 4 quarts and | pt. of cold 1 turnip. water. 3 carrots. Cut up the meat and bacon, or ham, into pieces of about three inches square; break the bones into small pieces, rub the butter on the bottom of the stewpan; put in one- half a pint of water, the broken bones, then meat and all other ingredients. Cover the stew-pan, and place it on a sharp fire, occasionally stirring its contents. "When the bot- tom of the pan becomes covered with a pale, jelly-like sub- stance, add the four quarts of cold water, and simmer very SOUPS 5 gently for five or six hours. As we have said before, do not let it boil quickly. When nearly cooked, throw in a table- spoonful of salt to assist the scum to rise. Remove every particle of scum whilst it is doing, and strain it through a fine hair sieve; when cool remove all grease. This stock will keep for many days in cold weather. Stock is the basis of many of the soups afterwards men- tioned, and this will be found quite strong enough for ordinary purposes. Keep it in small jars, in a cool place. It makes a good gravy for hash-meats ; one tablespoonf ul of it is sufficient to impart a fine flavor to a dish of macaroni and various other dishes. Good soups of various kinds are made from it at short notice ; slice off a portion of the jelly, add water, and whatever vegetables and thickening preferred. It is best to partly cook the vegetables before adding to the stock, as much boiling injures the flavoring of the soup. Season and boil a few moments and serve hot. WHITE STOCK "White stock is used in the preparation of white soups, and is made by boiling six pounds of a knuckle of veal, cut up in small pieces, poultry trimmings, and four slices of lean ham. Proceed according to directions given in "Stock," above. TO CLARirY STOCK Place the stock in a clean saucepan, set it over a brisk fire. When boiling, add the white of one egg to each quart of stock, proceeding as follows: beat the whites of the eggs up well in a little water; then add a little hot stock; beat to a froth, and pour gradually into the pot; then beat the whole hard and long; allow it to boil up once, and immediately remove and strain through a thin flannel cloth. 6 SOUPS BROWN STOCK 4 lbs. shin of beef or other 1 small head of celery. meat and bones. ^ teaspoonful of salt. 4 carrots. i teaspoonful of peppercorns. 1 turnip. 6 cloves. 4 onions. 5 pints cold water. Cut up the meat and bones and place in the stock pot, pour over the water and skim when boiling. Prepare the vegetables and add. Cover closely and simmer four hours. The spices should be added with the vegetables. aUENELIES FOR CLEAR OR WHITE SOTJP Melt an ounce of butter in a stew-pan over a gentle fire, beat it up with a dessertspoonful of flour and a tablespoon of cream, so as to make a thick paste; add two ounces of boiled macaroni, two ounces of Parmesan cheese grated, a little salt, pepper, and a grate of nutmeg. Beat the mix- ture over the fire till smooth and firm and leaves the sides of the saucepan with the spoon. Mould it into quenelles with a teaspoon dipped in hot water, and then poach them in boiling gravy till they are done thoroughly ; lift them out with a skimmer, and put them into the tureen with the soup. CREAM OF ASPARAGUS Clean a bundle of asparagus, cut off tips and boil in salted water till soft; boil the stalks twenty minutes in a quart of good stock ; put two ounces of butter in a stew-pan with two ounces of flour, mix smoothly and pour in the hot stock, having previously pulped the asparagus through a sieve ; add one pint of milk ; boil up and skim ; put the tips in a tureen with a gill of cream; pour in the boiling soup; season with salt and pepper to taste, and serve. SOUPS 71 WHITE SOUP Take a good-sized knuckle of veal, put it on to boil well covered with water, removing the scum as it comes to a boil ; boil till the meat comes freely from the bones, which remove, returning the bones into the pot and boil for another three- quarters of an hour, renewing the water when you see fit, so that it may not boil dry ; then strain all through a colan- der ; you will then have one and one-half quarts of soup. Set it away in a cool place, and the following day put it on to boil with a quart of milk and a piece of fresh butter the size of an egg. Put one-half teaspoonful of ground mace, ground red or white pepper, and salt to taste; when all comes to a boil have two and one-half tablespoonfuls of flour well blended in cold water, pour this into the boiling soup, then let it boil for three or four minutes; remove the pot from the stove; take the yolks of six eggs well beaten, put a little of the soup with the eggs and mix all together, then pour slowly into the soup, stirring it quietly all the while ; the eggs must not be added to the soup while boiling, as they will curdle; this makes a delicious soup when prop- erly made. If preferred, one-half pint of cream can be used instead of the butter. Half the quantity can be made by using half the ingredients. CARROT SOUP To each quart of stock allow twelve or thirteen ounces of pulped carrot, salt and cayenne to taste. Boil as many carrots as required (about four good-sized ones to each quart) till quite tender. Then cut up the red part and rub it through a sieve. Weigh it and add gravy soup or good stock in the above proportions; mix it gradu- ally and season with salt and a little cayenne. Let it boil up, and serve very hot, with a dish of fried bread cut into small squares. 8 SOUPS GREEN PEA SOUP 2 qts. stock. 1 tablespoonful butter. ^ peck old peas. 1 tablespoonful flour. 2 lettuce. A few sprigs of mint. 1 onion. A little cucumber. Reserve one quart of stock and a teacupful of peas; put the rest of stock and all the vegetables together and simmer till quite tender, then press all through a sieve; add the remainder of the stock, let it come to the boiling point, and just before serving, if the soup is not very thick, add the butter and flour well mixed together. Boil the teacup of peas by themselves, put them in the tureen and pour the soup over them. Serve with a dish of toasted bread. HAEICOT BEAN SOTJP Two quarts of stock, one pint of haricot beans, pepper and salt to taste. Soak the beans all night in cold water, drain them and boil in cold water, slightly salted, till quite tender, about one and a half hours. Press them through a sieve with a spoon, and add them (leaving out the husks) to the stock, which should be warm; add pepper and salt to taste, boil up once more, and serve with a dish of fried bread cut into small squares. KIDNEY SOUP 1 oz. butter. 3 qts. cold water. 1 oz. flour. 1 tablespoonful Worcester ^ oz. ground rice. sauce. Pepper and salt. 1 tablespoonful mushroom sauce. Cut the kidneys in thin slices, sprinkle with the ounce of flour, melt the butter, put in the kidney and brown. Then SOUPS pour in the water, stir till it boils, skim carefully and allow to simmer slowly for three hours. Put the one-half ounce of rice in a bowl with the sauces. "When mixed pour into the soup; stir well till it boils, then cook slowly for ten minutes and serve without the meat. Two large kidneys are sufficient for the above. KIDNEY SOUP 1 oz, kidney. 1 tablespoonful Harvey sauce. 1 qt. second stock. 1 oz. butter. 1 tablespoonful mushroom 1 oz. flour of rice, catsup. Pepper and salt. Wash and pepper, and roll kidney into it, then put in pan with butter and brown quickly; add part of the stock and let it come to the boil and cook a few minutes; put in saucepan with the rest of the stock, and leave to simmer two hours. MOCK CLAM SOUP Cook a pint of marrowfat beans over night in water enough to cover them. In the morning drain and put them on the fire with a small onion and a gallon of cold water; boil until tender and strain. Add to the stock a little summer savory, two ounces of butter and a cup of cream or rich milk, season with salt and pepper. "When the soup comes to a boil, cut two slices of toast into dice, and four hard-boiled eggs in slices, put these in the tureen and pour the soup over and serve. POTATO SOUP One carrot, one onion, two large potatoes chopped fine. Boil, and put through a colander; then add pepper and salt to taste ; add a good sized piece of butter, and one quart of milk ; let come to a boil and serve. 10 SOUPS POTATO SOUP To one quart of milk add two stalks of celery, one small onion and one bay leaf; put in a double saucepan and let come to the boil; strain, add a cup of mashed potatoes and a piece of butter the size of an egg; season with salt and pepper to taste; thicken with a little cornstarch and serve very hot. TURKISH SOUP 1 qt. white stock. ^ teaspoonful pepper. 1 gill cream. 2 tablespoonfuls sago or Yolks of two eggs. round tapioca. When stock is boiling put in the sago (soaked for half an hour) ; beat yolks with cream, and when sago boils for ten minutes, add a cup of soup gradually to cream and eggs, stirring all the time; put back on the stove and cook a few minutes, stirring all the time. TRIPE SOUP Cleanse the tripe thoroughly, slice in small pieces and plunge in boiling water. Kemove carefully, wash again in hot water, and if there are any spots black or red left, scrape with a knife. Put in a sauce-pan with plenty of water and a little vinegar and boil until tender. Break ten eggs in another dish, add salt and lemon-juice, beat thoroughly and stir into it a little of the boiling broth until danger of curdling is past; then add to the tripe and water, cook a moment longer and serve. SALMON SOUP 1 cup cooked salmon. Salt and pepper to taste. 1 pt. milk. 1 bay leaf. 1 tablespoonful butter. 1 sprig parsley. 1 tablespoonful flour. 1 slice onion. SOUPS 11 Put milk in double boiler, and bay leaf, onion and pars- ley; let it come to scalding point, rub butter and flour to- gether, put into milk, stir till it thickens; remove flavor- ings, add salmon, which has been rubbed through a colander, stir until it becomes smooth, add salt and cayenne. Serve. TOISIATO BOUILLON 1 can tomatoes. 4 whole cloves. 1-^ qts. stock. 1 level teaspoonful oelery 1 tablespoonful chopped seed. onion. Whites of 3 eggs. 2 bay leaves. 2 tablespoonfuls salt. Put tomatoes and stock over fire, add onion, bay leaves, cloves, celery and pepper. Cover and cook twenty minutes. Strain through a sieve. Beat whites of eggs till partly light, add these to tomato, bring to boil and boil rapidly five minutes. Strain through two thicknesses of cheesecloth. Ee-heat, season with salt and serve with tiny cubes of toasted bread. TOMATO SOUP 1 can tomatoes. 1 oz. butter. 1 qt. stock. 1 oz. flour, 1 gill cream or milk. Pepper and salt. Boil together the stock and tomatoes for fifteen minutes, then rub them through a sieve; melt the butter in a sauce- pan, stir in flour and strained stock, boil two minutes; allow the boil to go off, then add cream, and do not allow it to boil again or the cream will curdle. TOMATO SOUP One quart of peeled tomatoes, to which add a pinch of soda, boil for one hour, or longer. Strain and return to 12 SOUPS the fire and add one quart of hot boiled milk ; season with salt, pepper, and a small piece of butter; add three table- spoonfuls of rolled crackers and serve hot. Canned toma- toes may be used instead of fresh ones. w^ TOMATO PUREE 1 'qt, canned tomatoes. 1 sprig parsley. 1 pt. stock or water (stock 1 stick celery, is best). 6 peppercorns. 1 bay leaf. 1 teaspoonful sugar. Simmer together until the tomato is thoroughly soft. In another saucepan put a tablespoonful of butter; when it is hot add a sliced onion, and fry, but not brown it ; then add a tablespoonful of flour, and cook, but not brown the flour. To this roux add enough of the tomato to dilute it, and then raix it well with the rest of the tomato, and season with salt. Pass the whole through a fine sieve or strainer. Heat it again before serving, and sprinkle over the top small croutons. TOMATO BISatJE SOUP 1 qt. tomatoes. Butter size of an egg. 3 pts. milk. 1 scant teaspoonful of soda. 1 large tablespoonful of flour. Pepper and salt. Put tomatoes on to stew and the milk in a double boiler, reserving half a cup to mix the flour. Mix flour smoothly and stir in boiling milk and cook ten minutes. Add soda to tomato, stir well and strain, add butter, salt and pepper to milk and then the tomato. CREAM TOMATO SOUP 1 can tomatoes. Butter size of egg. 1 qt. water. 1 qt. milk. Salt and pepper. 1 teaspoonful soda. SOUPS 13 Salt and pepper to taste. Cook tomatoes thoroughly in water; have milk scalding in a double boiler to prevent scorching. When tomatoes are done, add a large teaspoon- ful of soda, which will cause a violent effervescence. It is best to set vessel in a pan before adding soda, to prevent waste. When the commotion has ceased add milk and seasoning. CLEAR SOUP Heat a Jieaping tablespoonful of butter in a covered saucepan; slice into it a medium-sized onion; stir until the onion is browned; add two pounds of finely chopped lean raw beef, one quart cold water; cover closely and let it simmer three hours. Strain the soup, return to the kettle; add the white and shell of an egg, well beaten, with a little cold water; add also four peppercorns, teaspoonful of salt, two cloves and a blade of mace. Boil five minutes, then drain and serve from a hot tureen. ONION SOUP 1 qt. milk. 1 tablespoonful of flour. 6 large onions. 1 cup of cream. Yolks of four eggs. Salt and pepper to taste. 3 tablespoonfuls of butter. Put butter in frying-pan, cut onion in thin slices and drop in butter; stir until they begin to cook, then cover tight and set back where they will simmer and not burn for one-half hour, then put milk on to boil; add the dry flour to onions, stir constantly over fire for three minutes; pour mixture into milk and cook for fifteen minutes ; strain ; season with salt and pepper and return soup to fire; beat yolks thoroughly, add them to the cream and stir into soup. Cook three minutes, stirring constantly. Pour over fried croutons in tureen and serve. 14 SOUPS ONION SOUP Put one tablespoonful of butter in the frying-pan. "When hot add one finely chopped onion ; fry it until nicely browned, being careful not to burn. Put one quart of soup stock (made from odds and ends of cold meat) into a stew-pan; add the fried onion and cook for fifteen minutes. Strain; return to the fire, add one tablespoonful of flour wet in a little cold water, to thicken, and boil for five minutes longer. Season with one-half a teaspoonful of salt and one-quarter teaspoonful of pepper. Cut two slices of stale bread into dice; brown the dice in the oven, put them in the soup tu- reen, pour the soup over them and serve at once before they become soft GIBLET SOTJP Heat one quart of chicken stock. You can utilize for this the liquor in which a fowl has been boiled, or that in which the carcasses of cooked fowls have been boiled for hours, "When it boils, stir in the finely minced giblets of two fowls with a little chopped parsley, cook half an hour and thicken with two tablespoonfuls of brown roux. Season judiciously. This popular soup is made still better if force-meat balls of hard-boiled yolks, rubbed to a paste with a little butter, bound with a raw egg and rolled in browned flour, be dropped in one minute before the soup leaves the fire. GIBLET SOUP This soup is a great success and is very inexpensive, a plate of giblets only costing at market five cents. It is a very good imitation of mock turtle soup. The giblets of four chickens or two turkeys are required, one medium onion, one carrot, half a turnip, a few sprigs of parsley, all of which come in the ordinary soup bunch. Heat butter size of an egg in stew-pan, throw in the sliced onion, later the minced carrot and turnip; when tender and a light SOUPS 15 brown, add the giblets, stirring in a tablespoonful of flour. Be careful to stir often that they do not burn. Now cut up giblets and put with vegetables into soup kettle with table- spoonful of salt, teaspoonful of pepper and three quarts of water, or stock in part, if you have it, or any chicken bones. Let this simmer slowly for three hours or more ; then strain it. Take all the livers, mash into them a tablespoonful of melted butter, tablespoonful browned flour; squeeze the juice of small lemon into this and add to the soup. Place in tureen yolks of three hard-boiled eggs cut in half-dozen pieces, pour over the soup ; serve. VEGETABLE SOUP In summer soup should be light and appetizing, as few people desire rich food in any form at this season of the year. Many very excellent soups are made of vegetables, and the housekeeper can have her family partake daily of light, healthful soups at a small cost, which will be more acceptable than the usual meat and fish soups. Peel and slice two potatoes, parboil them in enough hot water to cover them. While they are cooking, chop two tomatoes, slice the corn off two ears of corn, and add one slice of onion, which you have saved from breakfast. Drain the potatoes, and put all on to cook in two quarts of cold w'ater. When done, rub all through a colander, return the soup to the pot, add a level tablespoonful butter, one teaspoon salt, one-half teaspoon pepper and one of minced parsley. If not thick enough, moisten a teaspoonful of flour with cold water, thin with the soup and stir in; let boil up once, and it is ready for the table. VEGETABLE SOUP To one quart of common stock add one pint of parboiled mixed vegetables cut into small dice. Simmer until the 16 iSOUPS vegetables are tender but not pasty. >Season with salt, pepper, and one teaspoonful of sugar. Serve without strain- ing. VEGETABLE PUKEE Ingredients. — Onions, carrots, potatoes (boiled first), beans of any kind, parsnips, celery, peas, leek, turnips ; cauli- flower, etc. Cut up a large plateful of any and all kinds of vegetables you happen to have — always having potatoes or beans for thickening. First, put into a saucepan a teacup of dripping or stock-fat, and when very hot add the sliced onions ; stir well to prevent them burning, and when they are red stir in a large spoonful of flour till it is of the same color. Now stir in a pint of hot water and some pepper and salt — mind not to add the pepper and salt at first, as the onions and flour would then more readily burn. Now add the rest of the vegetables, and let them simmer, adding more hot water as necessary, for two hours; then press them through a colander, return them to the range and let them simmer till the moment of serving. GUMBO SOUP Try out the fat of a slice of bacon, drain it off, and in it fry the slices of a large onion brown. Peel and cut up two quarts of fresh tomatoes, and cut thin one quart of okra. Put all together with a little chopped parsley (one tea- spoonful) in a stew kettle with three quarts of hot broth o£ any kind. Let it cook slowly for three hours. Season with a scant tablespoonful of salt and half a teaspoonful of pepper. In the winter a large can of tomatoes and a can of okra may be used instead of the fresh vegetables. MARROWBALL SOUP Let piece of marrow, size of egg, melt slowly. When slightly cooled add one cup grated bread crumbs, yolk of SOUPS 17 one egg, salt, nutmeg to flavor; mix well with little cold water. Take a teaspoonful, drop into boiling stock; do not cover the kettle; should the ball fall apart more bread crumbs should be added. Put the mixture in by the spoon- ful, and let boil slowly three minutes. CREAM OF BARLEY SOUP Boil one knuckle of veal or chicken or turkey bones in two quarts of cold water very gently for three hours; skim and strain. Wash a half cup of pearl barley in cold water ; cover it with the white broth you have just made. Cover the saucepan and cook very gently until the barley is tender. Then remove one-third of the barley, set aside, and rub the remaining portion through a sieve. Now place in the sauce- pan the whole barley grains, also the barley and stock you have passed through the sieve, add half a pint of boiling cream, season to taste with salt and pepper. Throw into the soup fifteen beef balls, boil up once and serve three balls to each person. CHICKEN BROTH Cut up the fowl and put it into the pot with four quarts of water (cold) ; stew until there are but three quarts left. Take out the chicken ; season the liquor and add a small cup- ful of rice. Cook rice tender. If you like you may add a cup of milk, and one or two beaten eggs just before serving. Stew, not boil, the chicken. CHICKEN AND CORN BROTH 1 qt. stock (see below). 1 tablespoonful minced pars- 1 can corn, chopped (or 8 ley. ears). 1 tablespoonful green onion 1 tablespoonful butter in 1 tops. of flour. 1 cup boiling milk. Pepper and salt. 18 SOUPS Even in the country, where old fowls must be disposed of in some way, it is seldom economical to boil them to pieces just to make soup. But if you will save the liquor in which these have been boiled the day before for the table, a de- lightful broth maj^ be made. One quart of the liquor cleared of fat after it is cold. Boil corn and liquor slowly together one hour after they begin to bubble. Rub thoroughly through a colander, season, and add herbs. Heat to boiling, stir in the floured butter, simmer five min- utes, pour into the tureen, and add the boiling milk. PLAIN CHICKEN SOUP 1 fowl. 2 sticks celery, 4 qts. water. 1 sprig parsley. 1 cupful rice. Salt and pepper. 1 slice onion. Place the fowl, cut into pieces, in a saucepan with four quarts of cold water; when it comes to the boiling-point, draw it aside and let it simmer for three hours; then add one thick slice of onion, two sticks of celery, one sprig of parsley, and one cupful of rice, and simmer for another hour; strain and let the soup stand until the grease can be taken off the top. Remove the meat, bones, and vegetables from the strainer, and press the rice through the sieve; stir this into the soup; season with salt and pepper, and heat again before serving; a little cream may also be added. This soup is also good thickened with a little roux or with cornstarch. For the latter, take two tablespoonfuls of the cold stock ; stir into it one tablespoonf ul of cornstarch ; then stir it into the soup, and let cook for ten minutes to take away the raw taste of the starch, and to make it clear. Pieces of the breast cut into dice may also be added. SOUPS 19 CHICKEN BROTH 1 fowl. ^ cupful of rice. 4 qts. water (cold). Salt and pepper. Clean the fowl carefully ; wash it with a wet cloth ; cut it into pieces and remove the fat. Place the joints in a sauce- pan with a quart of water to each pound of fowl. Let it simmer until the meat is tender; then remove the breast; after four hours take it off and strain it through a sieve. Let the soup stand until the grease rises; then carefully re- move it, and put the soup again in the saucepan; add the breast of the chicken, cut into dice, and the half cupful of rice; salt and pepper to taste, and cook until the rice is tender. HIGHLAITDER'S DELIGHT 2 lbs. veal and 3 lbs. of 1 carrot grated, bones from neck or 4 qts. cold water, knuckle of calf (well Bunch sweet herbs chopped, cracked). ^ cup barley. 1 onion minced. Salt and pepper. 1 turnip. 1 tablespoonful oatmeal. Put meat, cut into dice, bones, chopped vegetables, and herbs on in the water and boil very slowly six hours. Sea- son and set away in a cold place until next da3\ Take off the fat two hours before dinner, strain out the soup into a kettle and add the barley, which has been already soaked in warm water two hours, and cooked fifteen minutes in enough boiling water to cover it well. Put in with it the water in which it has been cooked, and simmer all together for half an hour. The oatmeal should have been soaked several hours in a little warm water. Stir it into the soup, and let all boil gently together for one hour before pouring out. 20 SOUPS VERMICELLI OR SPAGHETTI SOUP Break the vermicelli or spaghetti into inch lengths, and cook tender and clear in boiling salted water. Drain this off; spread the vermicelli upon a dish and allow it to get almost cold, when drop into a quart of (cleared) boiling stock; let it just boil again, and serve. The pipe macaroni may be used in like manner, cut into quarter-inch lengths after it is cooked. CLEAR TAPIOCA SOUP Soak two tablespoonfuls of pearl tapioca in a large cup of cold water four hours, then stir into a quart of well-sea- soned boiling clear stock, and simmer ten minutes. Pearl sago may be substituted for tapioca if desired, but should be soaked four hours in cold water, and one hour in hot, before it goes into the soup. MOCK TURTLE SOUP 1 calf's head and 2 feet. A little savory, thyme and 2 veal cutlets. marjoram. 1 pt. browned flour. 5 eggs boiled hard. 5 onions. A few spices. 1 lemon. 2 wineglasses port or sherry. One calf's head and two feet; boil in plenty of water until the bones will draw out. Boil two veal cutlets in the same water until tender for forcemeat balls. To the liquor then put brown flour, onions cut in thin slices and fried in butter with salt, pepper, and spices. Before skimming the soup put in savory, marjoram and thyme. Chop with the veal for balls a very little spice. Take the pieces of cheek which boil off the head and cut in little squares and add to soup. Boil four or five eggs hard. Chop the whites and put yolks whole in the soup. "When you serve the soup put in wine to taste, port or sherry, say two wineglasses, and slices of lemon, or squeeze and stir the juice in. SOUPS 21 CLEAR BROWN SOUP Clear the stock as directed in recipe for Amber Soup, and stir in enough caramel to color it to your liking, bearing in mind that too much will give a sweetish taste to the liquid. The caramel is made by heating granulated sugar in a tin cup or agate iron saucepan until it bubbles brownly all over. Add, at once, boiling water, a tablespoonful for each spoonful of the sugar — and stir until the sugar is dissolved. It will keep well in the refrigerator for a week or more. Some palates enjoy the flavor of cloves and allspice in browned soup. The whole spices are used and strained out before the caramel goes in. Allow six cloves and four all- spice to a quart of stock. Onion flavor should be imparted by grating a raw onion and squeezing the juice through a cloth into the heating stock. CREAM OF TURNIP SOUP One quart of lamb or mutton broth. Two cups of turnip dice. Use white, young turnips. Cook in the liquor half an hour after the boil begins, and when very tender, rub through a colander. Return to the fire and proceed as with cream of celery soup, only putting in both white and yolk of the egg. CREAM OF LETTUCE SOUP Shred finely two heads of lettuce — the greener the better. Cook for half an hour in a quart of good stock, rub through a colander; return to the fire; stir into a cup of this two tablespoonfuls of white roux and a tablespoonful of cold boiled onion, minced fine, and one of minced parsley. Heat a cup of milk in another vessel, season with pepper and salt, stir in a well-whipped egg, and pour this mixture into the tureen, adding finally the lettuce soup. 22 SOUPiS CREAM OF SORREI SOUP This is best when made from the more delicate species of sorrel, such as infests our flower-borders, but the commoner red sorrel of the farm can be used. SCOTCH BROTH 1 qt. stock (see below). 1 tablespoonful minced pars- ^ cup pearl barley or rice. ley. 1 medium-sized onion minced. 2 tablespoonfuls white roux. Obtain the stock by boiling down the water in which a leg of mutton was cooked until you have half the original quantity. Or by boiling for eight hours the bones left from roast mutton, or the "trimmings" sent home by the butcher who prepared the roast and chops for the table. If raw meat and bones are used, allow one quart of water to each pound. Be careful to skim all the fat from the stock. Mutton-fat is tallow, unpalatable and indigestible. "Wash the barley or rice and soak in cold water one hour. Put the stock over the fire with the onion and bring to a rapid boil. Add the barley (or rice) and simmer for three-quarters of an hour; put in the parsley and cook five minutes more before stirring in. SCOTCH BROTH Two pounds of the scraggy part of a neck of mutton. Cut the meat from the bones, and cut off all the fat. Then cut meat into small pieces and put into soup pot with one large slice of turnip, two of carrot, one onion and a stalk of celery, all cut fine; half a cup of barley and three pints of cold water. Simmer gently two hours. On to the bones put one pint of water; simmer two hours and strain on the soup. Cook a tablespoonful of flour and one of butter to- gether until perfectly smooth, stir into the soup, and add a teaspoonful of chopped parsley. Season with salt and pepper. SOUPS 83 ENGLISH BARLEY BEOTH One quart of strong stock made by boiling the bones of a rib-roast, or steak well broken, with a pound of underdone beef for six hours. Or if raw meat is at hand, allow for a pound of chopped lean beef and the cracked cooked bones aforesaid, three pints of water and stew it down in four hours to one quart. (Let it get cold and take off the fat, of course). One onion, one carrot cut into dice, and one small turnip also cut up small. Half a cup of barley soaked for an hour, with minced parsley and sweet marjoram, pepper and salt to taste. Parboil the vegetables, drain them and put into the soup- kettle with the barley and the cold stock. Bring to a slow boil and keep this up for an hour, before the parsley goes in. CAULIFLOWER BROTH (WITHOUT MEAT) 1 fine cauliflower. 2 blades of mace. 2 tablespoonfuls butter 2 qts. water, rubbed into one of corn- 2 cups milk, starch. Pepper and salt. 1 onion. A pinch of soda in the milk. Bunch of parsley. Cut the cauliflower into bunches, reserving about a cupful of small clusters to put whole into the soup. Chop the rest, also the onion and herbs, and put on in the water, with the mace. Cook an hour, and rub through a colander. Return the puree thus obtained to the pot, and season with pepper and salt. As it boils, stir in the whole clusters, previously boiled tender in hot, salted water, and left to cool. When the soup is again hot, put in the butter and cornstarch ; stir until this has thickened ; pour into the tureen, and add the boiling milk. Pass sliced lemon and cream-crackers with it. 24 SOUPS CORN CHOWDER 12 ears of corn. 1 cup milk. 2 onions sliced. 1 beaten egg. 3 large potatoes parboiled. 1 qt. boiling water. 6 Boston crackers well but- Parsley. tered and soaked five min- Pepper and salt, utes in hot water. A pinch of soda in the milk. 3 tablespoonfuls butter. Fry the onions in two tablespoonfuls of butter in the soup-kettle. Remove this to the table and take out the onions with a skimmer, leaving the browned butter in the bottom. Put into this a layer of corn cut from the cob, then of crackers, next of sliced parboiled potatoes, seasoning as you go, until all the ingredients are in. Cover with the hot water, and cook gently for about forty minutes after it; begins to boil. Heat the milk in a separate vessel, stir into it a tablespoonful of butter rolled in flour, and at last a beaten egg. Pour the milk into the tureen, then the chow- der, stirring all the while. This broth or chowder may be made in winter with canned corn, but is not nearly so good as when fresh is used. IIVER SOUP A palatable and inexpensive soup is made of one quart of stock, obtained by boiling four slices of corned lean ham, or a corned ham-bone, with a sliced onion, in two quarts of water until it is reduced one-half. Chop the "left-overs" of fried or stewed liver fine with a little ham, and add to the stock. Season to taste; thicken with a brown roux, and pour upon a handful of croutons in the bottom of the tu- reen. The heart, that usually comes with the liver, if boiled tender in the hamstock, may be minced and added. Any slices of fried breakfast bacon left in the pantry, if chopped SOUPS 25 fine, will improve the flavor. If while on the look-out for "left-overs," you espy a cold boiled, fried, or poached egg on the shelf, mince it, and let it also go into the soup. Sea- son with pepper and minced parsley. You will be surprised to find how good the product of the hunt proves to be. RABBIT OR "OLD HARE" SOUP 1 rabbit cut up. 1 teaspoouful of Worcester- I lb. salt pork minced fine. shire sauce. 1 large onion, chopped. 1 tablespoonful tomato cat- 1 stalk celery, chopped. sup. 1 sprig parsley, chopped. 1 glassful brown sherry. 1 gallon of water. Juice of ^ lemon. 1 heaping tablespoonful 2 tablespoonfuls good drip- brown roux. pings. Salt and pepper to taste. Fry the onion in the dripping, and when lightly browned, add the pieces of rabbit, cover with cold water and cook very slowly for four hours, or until the meat is in rags. Season with salt and pepper. Let all get cold together. Skim off the fat; strain through a coarse cloth, return to the fire and when it boils thicken with the roux ; put in the catsup, wine, lemon-juice, and, if you fancy, a pinch of ground allspice. If not brown enough, color with a little caramel. MULLIGATAWNY SOUP One quart of chicken, veal, or calf's-head broth. One small onion, minced. A pinch of mace. Half a cupful of soaked rice. Juice of a lemon. One generous tablespoon- ful of brown roux. One teaspoonful of curry powder. Salt to taste. One teacupful of strained tomato-juice. 20 SOUPS SPLIT-PEA OR BEAN SOUP 1 cup split peas. 1 tablespoonful of flour. or 2 qts. of water. 1 cup dried beans. ^ teaspoonful of sugar. 1 tablespoonful of butter. Salt and pepper to taste. Let the peas or beans soak over night in three quarts of cold water. Put the soaked peas or beans into a saucepan with two quarts of water and a ham-bone, if you have it, otherwdse it may be omitted. Let simmer for four or five hours, or until the peas or beans are perfectly soft. (Add more water from time to time, if necessary.) Then pass them through a sieve; add to the pulp enough stock, or milk, or water to make a soup of the consistency of cream. Put it again into a saucepan on the fire ; season, and add a roux made of one tablespoonful of butter and one table- spoonful of flour cooked together; dilute the roux to smooth- ness with a little of the soup before adding it to the pot. The roux will hold the particles of peas or beans in suspen- sion. Without it they are liable to precipitate. An onion may be boiled with the pesas or beans if desired. Serve croutons on the soup, or pass them. CEEAM OF OYSTERS Scald a quart of oysters in their own liquor. Eemove the oysters; chop and pound them in a mortar, then press as much of them as possible through a puree sieve. Make a roux of one tablespoonful of butter and a heaping table- spoonful of flour. Dilute it with the oyster juice. Add the oyster pulp; season it with pepper, salt and paprica, and keep it hot until ready to serve. Just before serving add a half pint of whipped cream, and beat it well into the soup. SOUPS 27 MUTTON BROTH The neck or shoulder-pieces may be used for broth. The meat should be cut into pieces and the fat removed. To each pound of meat add one quart of cold water ; simmer for four or five hours ; strain it iijto an earthen bowl ; when ready to serve, remove the grease, and add to each quart of stock one stick of celery, two tablespoonfuls of rice, salt and pep- per to taste, and boil until the rice is soft. The water in which a leg of mutton has been boiled will make a good mutton soup, but is not rich enough for a broth to be served to an invalid. BKOTH MADE QUICKLY FOE INVALIDS Broth may be made quickly by chopping lean meat to a fine mince. To a pound of meat add one pint of cold water; let soak for fifteen minutes; then let slowly boil for half an hour; season and strain. CALF'S-HEAD OR MOCK-TURTLE SOUP ]\Iake a brown roux by putting in a saucepan one table- spoonful of butter, let it brown, add two tablespoonfuls of flour, and let that brown ; then add, slowly at first, one and a half or two quarts of water in which a calf's head has been boiled, white wine instead of vinegar being used in the boil- ing. Add three or four strained tomatoes and simmer for one-half hour. Skim off any fat and season with salt and pepper. Add some pieces of boiled calf's head cut in pieces one-half inch square, a few egg balls, two or three table- spoonfuls of sherry, and a few very thin slices of lemon. OYSTER SOUP Scald a quart, or twenty-five, oysters in their own liquor. As soon as they are plump, or the gills curl, remove them 28 SOUPS (oysters harden if boiled). Add to the liquor a cupful of water. Make a roux of one tablespoonful each of butter and flour, dilute it with the liquor, and when it is smooth add a cupful of scalded milk or cream. Season with pepper, salt, if necessary, and a dash of cayenne or paprica; then add the oysters, and as soon as they are heated serve at once. In oyster houses finely shredded cabbage with a French dressing is served with oyster soup, and is a good accompani- ment when served for luncheon. Oysters should be carefully examined, and the liquor passed through a fine sieve before being cooked, in order to remove any pieces of shell there may be in them, OYSTEH SOUP 1 knuckle veal. 2 or 3 celery leaves, 1 small onion, ^ pt, cream. 2 blades mace. ^ pt. milk. 2 small red peppers. 1 qt. oysters. Boil veal with onion, mace, peppers, celery leaves and salt to taste, in four quarts of water, adding more water till the meat is boiled to shreds. Strain and set the liquor to cool. When cold skim off every particle of fat, and leave behind any grounds that may be at the bottom of the jelly, which should be firm. Put the jelly over the fire; when boiling add cream and milk; thicken with flour previously blended to the consistency of cream, or oyster crackers powdered. Stir till the soup is thickened, then add the oysters, stirring constantly for three or four minutes. A small knuckle of veal should make about three quarts of strong jelly. CLAM SOUP Eemove the clams from the shells as soon as they have opened. Put them in a warm place, until the juice is pre- pared. Add a cupful of hot milk to a quart of juice, and SOUPS 29 thicken it with a roux made of one tablespoonful of butter and one tablespoonful of flour; then add the clams, chopped fine, season, and bring the soup again to the boiling-point and serve. Two spoonfuls of whipped cream served on each plateful of soup is an improvement to the dish. CONSOMME 4 lbs. shin of beef. Bouquet of herbs. 4 lbs. knuckle of veal. 1 tablespoonful of salt. 4 qts. of water (cold). 3 onions. 2 oz. lean ham or bacon. 1 carrot. 6 cloves. 1 turnip. 6 peppercorns. 2 sprigs of parsley, 2 stalks of celery. 3 eggs (whites and shells). Bind and juice of one lemon. Wipe and cut the meat and bones into small pieces. Put the marrow, bones, and part of the meat in the kettle, with four quarts of cold water. Heat slowly; cut the onions and vegetables fine, and fry them in the ham fat or in drippings, then brown the remainder of the meat. Add onions, meat, herbs, spices and vegetables. Simmer until the meat is in rags ; it will take about seven hours. Strain, and when cold remove the fat and add the whites and shells of the eggs, lemon and salt and pepper, if needed. When well mixed heat it, and boil ten minutes. Strain through fine strainer, and heat again to the boiling point before serving. Serve clear, or with wine or lemon. It should be of a light brown or straw color, OX-TAIL SOUP 1 ox tail, 3 onions, 2 lbs. lean beef. Thyme. 4 carrots. 4 qts. cold water. 30 SOUPS Cut the tail into several pieces and fry brown in butter. Slice the onions and carrots, and when you remove the ox- tail from the frying-pan, put in these and brown also. When done tie them in a bag with a bunch of thyme and drop into a soup pot. Lay the pieces of ox-tail in the same, then the meat cut into small slices. Grate over them the two whole carrots, and add four quarts of cold water with pepper and salt. Boil four to six hours, in proportion to the size of the tail. Strain fifteen minutes before serving, and thicken with two tablespoonfuls of browned flour. Boil ten minutes longer. DUCHESS SOUP One pint white stock, one pint brown stock, salt and cay- enne, four tea spoonfuls rice-flour. Strain and pour over well beaten yolks of two eggs. Soup must not be allowed to boil after this. Before serving add half a cup of whipped cream. CREAM OF CELERY SOUP 1 pt. milk. 1 small onion. 1 tablespoonful of flour. A little mace. 1 tablespoonful of butter. 1 cup of whipped cream. Long stalks of 3 heads of cel- ery. Boil onion, celery and mace from thirty to forty min- utes. Mix flour with two tablespoonfuls of cold milk and add to boiling milk; cook ten minutes; mash the celery in the water it was boiled in and stir in boiling milk ; add butter and season with salt and pepper to taste; strain, and serve immediately. "Whip a cup of cream and add to soup after it is in the tureen. SOUPS 31 CREAM OF CELERY SOTJP Pint of milk, thickened with flour and cornstarch, a dash of red pepper, a slice of onion, a blade of mace; boil to- gether; add a head of celery previously cut in pieces, boiled and mashed, in salted water in which boiled. When well blended strain; add lump of butter; stir over fire till blended. If very special add a cupful of whipped cream after soup is dished in very hot tureen. [This soup should be made, as all other milk soups, in double boiler. — Ed.] PEANUT SOUP One quart of rich milk, one large cupful of peanuts, measured after they have been shelled and skinned. Put milk on to cook in a double boiler; add salt to taste, and season highly with black and red pepper. Add the peanuts, which have been put through a meat chopper two or three times until they are ground fine. Cook twenty or thirty minutes. Just before taking from the fire add a cupful of cream. Strain. MILK POTATO SOUP Heat one pint of milk, thicken it with one tablespoonful of fiour and one tablespoonful of butter; add half a tea- spoonful of salt, a little pepper, quarter of a teaspoonful of onion juice, two large potatoes; mash and strain. VEAL SOUP Put a knuckle of veal into three quarts of water, a little salt and one tablespoonful of rice, boil slowly, hardly above simmering, until liquor is reduced one-half; remove from the fire. Into a dish put the yolk of one egg ; stir well into it a cup of cream ; add a piece of butter the size of a hickory nut. Into this strain the soup boiling hot, stirring all the time; just at last beat well for one minute. 32 SOUPS MUSHROOM SOUP One-half pound fresh mushrooms; remove the stock and mash mushrooms, chop them fine with a silver knife. Put on fire, melt one quart good chicken stock, cover and simmer gently for thirty minutes, add one teaspoon salt and sim- mer ten minutes longer; put two tablespoons butter in a saucepan, add (dry) three tablespoons flour; cook one minute; add one-half pint cream to your mushrooms, and add by degrees to your butter and flour, with care to keep good thickness, smooth; stir till it comes to a boiling point; add a dash of white pepper. For luncheon serve in cups. DAHL SOUP One-half pint of dahl, washed, three pints of cold water; let it stand two hours. Then add two small heads of cel- ery, or one teaspoonful of celery seed tied in a muslin bag, one blade mace, one-half dozen peppercorns, one onion, one ounce butter and one of flour mixed together; pepper and salt. Serve with toasted dice-bread. SOUPS 33 WRITTEN RECIPES 34 SOUPS , WRITTEN RECIPES SOUPS 35 WRITTEN KECIPES 36 SOUPS WRITTEN BECIPES PISH Dress fish as quickly as possible after they are taken from the water. Wash and rub the inside with salt. Do not soak in water long, as the flesh is apt to become flabby. Lard and butter in equal quantities is better for frying fish than butter alone. Frozen fish should be put in cold water to draw out the frost. Add a little vinegar to the water in which salt fish is soaked. Soak salt fish in sour milk to freshen them. Pour vinegar over fresh fish to make the scales come off easily. Fish can be improved in flavor by rubbing with vinegar or adding one-half cup of vinegar to the water in which it is boiled. Fish, when prepared for the table, should never be laid double, if it can be avoided, as the steam from the under layer makes the upper layer so soft as to break eas- ily. They must be cooked until the flesh separates easily from the bones. By running a knife in a little way, say under the fins, so as not to spoil the appearance of the fish, this can be judged of. All kinds of cooked fish can be served with salads. Let- tuce is the best green salad to serve, but all cooked and cold vegetables go well with fish. Whatever the method of cook- ing, apply great heat at first to sear the outside and prevent the escape of the juices, except for a soup or chowder. To scale a fish hold it by the tail under water (which is salted) in a deep pan, and with a small, sharp knife held slanting, scrape the scales from the tail toward the head. The scales will come off easier under water and will fall to the bottom of the pan instead of fiying about. Wipe the fish on an old soft towel and lay it on a board or a large 37 88 FISH platter. Cut off the head and tail, and if it is to be broiled split it down the back. This is done by passing the knife one side of and close to the backbone, from the head to the tail, cutting carefully until the entrails are reached. Re- move them carefully and scrape the inside of the fish and all the blood from the backbone. If preferred, the back- bone can be removed entirely. "Wipe the fish inside and out with a cloth wrung out of salted water, lay it on a dish and keep it in a cool place until wanted. For baking or frying, the fish may be opened down the body. The only secret in boning is to hold the knife close to the bone, scraping away every particle of flesh. To remove the skin, loosen it with a knife around the head and pull quickly toward the tail. If the fingers are dipped in salt occasion- ally it will give them a firmer grip on the slipping fish. This will be done in the market if the purchaser so directs. In freshening salt fish lay it in the water skin-side up. Baking, boiling, frying, broiling and steaming are the standard methods of cooking fish. BROILED FISH Broiling is assuredly the oldest method of cooking, and no new one surpasses it. The skin of small or thin fish serves to keep them in shape. Slices of halibut or salmon may be broiled whole, or the skin and bone removed and cut in fil- lets. Clean and split the fish. Rub a double broiler with suet, lay the fish, flesh side down, on and set over the fire ; turn until both sides are brown. When done take up care- fully on a heated dish, sprinkle with salt and pepper, spread with butter and serve. BOILED riSH This is thought to be the most delicate of all, but on ac- count of its slippery skin and gelatinous consistency, it is FISH 39 hard to boil it so that its appearance will gratify the eye. To attain the best results, several rules are to be remem- bered and observed. First, the fish must be weighed. Sec- ond, it must be carefully bound up in thin muslin; coarse cheese-cloth is excellent for the purpose. Third, the kettle must be large enough to accommodate the fish easily, and the water must be well salted first, or the flakes will have a tendency to separate. Fourth, the water must be at boiling point, but not boiling when the fish is put in, and should be in sufficient quantity to fully cover it, but not in excess, or the flavor will be washed away. For a large fish, add three tablespoonfuls of vinegar to the water. Fifth, keep the water boiling, and allow six minutes to each pound, and if the fish is large, add six minutes to the computation; for instance, make the thirty-six minutes due a six-pounder, forty-two minutes. Never stab a fish with a fork or skewer to find if it is done, but see that the water boils steadily and does not stop for an instant. If the water boils turbulently, the kettle must be moved to a part of the stove where it can have a less fierce heat, as too much agitation of the water will cause it to crumble. A fish boiler is best to use. Serve with drawn-butter ,and hard-boiled eggs sliced. Garnish also with parsley and sliced lemons. Some like tomato cat- sup poured over the fish, without the eggs and lemons. BAKED FISH Procure a fish of three or four pounds, season with one heaping tablespoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of pepper. Kub the seasoning well in and outside the fish ; place the fish with two sliced onions on a large dish; sprinkle over the juice of one large lemon; cover and set aside for one hour, then lay the fish in a baking-pan with four thin slices of pork under it, and three slices of pork on top. Pour one table- spoonful of melted butter over and bake forty-five minutes. Serve in a hot dish garnished with lemon cut into quarters, 40 FISH and parsley. It can be baked without the onion or lemon, but these improve its flavor. If salt pork is not at hand, grease the pan thoroughly with lard and lay a sheet of nice brown paper, cut to the size of the pan, in the bottom. Grease the paper thoroughly and lay the fish upon it. Baked in this way, it can easily be taken from the pan without breaking it at all, and the trouble of cleaning the pan afterwards, which is not a little when the baking is done in the usual manner, is entirely avoided. MODES OF FRYING The usual custom among professional cooks is to entirely immerse the article to be cooked in boiling fat, but from in- convenience most households use the half-frying method of frying in a small amount of fat in a frying-pan. For the first method a shallow iron frying-kettle, large at the top and small at the bottom, is best to use. The fat should half fill the kettle, or an amount sufficient to float whatever is to be fried ; the heat of the fat should get to such a degree that, when a piece of bread or a teaspoonful of the batter is dropped in it, it will become brown almost instantly, but should not be so hot as to burn the fat. Some cooks say that the fat should be smoking, but my experience is, that is a mistake, as that soon ruins the fat. As soon as it be- gins to smoke it should be removed a little to one side, and still be kept at the boiling point. If fritters, crullers, cro- quettes, etc., are dropped into fat that is too hot, it crusts over the outside before the inside has fully risen, making a heavy hard article, and also ruining the fat, giving it a burnt flavor. Many French cooks prefer beef fat or suet to lard for frying purposes, considering it more wholesome and digesti- ble, does not impart as much flavor, or adhere or soak into the article cooked as pork fat. FISH 41 In families of any size, where there is much cooking re- quired, there are enough drippings and fat remnants from roasts of beef, skimming from the soup-kettle, with the addi- tion of occasionally a pound of suet from the market, to amply supply the need. All such remnants and skimmings should be clarified about twice a week, by boiling them all together in water. When the fat is all melted, it should be strained with the water and set aside to cool. After the fat on the top has hardened, lift the cake from the water on which it lies, scrape off all the dark particles from the bottom, then melt over again the fat; while hot strain into a small clean stone jar or bright tin pail, and then it is ready for use. Always after frying anything, the fat should stand until it settles and has cooled somewhat ; then turn off carefully so as to leave it clear from the sediment that settles at the bottom. The second mode of frying, using a frying-pan with a small quantity of fat or grease, to be done properly, should in the first place have the frying-pan hot over the fire, and the fat in it actually boiling before the article to be cooked is placed in it, the intense heat quickly searing up the pores of the article and forming a brown crust on the lower side, then turning over and browning the other the same way. Still, there is another mode of frying ; the process is some- what similar to broiling, the hot frying-pan or spider re- placing the hot fire. To do this correctly, a thick bottom frying-pan should be used. Place it over the fire, and when it is so hot that it will siss, oil over the bottom of the pan with a piece of suet, that is, if the meat is all lean ; if not, it is not necessary to grease the bottom of the pan. Lay in the meat quite flat, and brown it quickly, first on one side, then on the other ; when sufficiently cooked, dish on a hot platter and season the same as broiled meats. 42 FISH DKESSING FOR FRIED FISH, OYSTERS OR CUTLETS Soda biscuits, seasoning, eggs. Roll biscuits (if a bottle is used for this it will be found to roll the biscuits as fine as flour), add seasoning, pepper and salt for fish and oysters; for cutlets, thyme, sweet marjoram and summer savory. Beat eggs, dip oysters or any fry in them, roll in seasoned cracker crumbs, and fry in butter or lard. CANAPEES OF SARDINES Sardines, the yolks of three or four hard-boiled eggs, a little butter, mustard, pepper, and vinegar, slices of toast. Take some slices of roll and cut them neatly into oval or octagon shapes. Toast them slightly, or fry them in oil or butter till they are of a nice yellow color. Take some sar- dines and strip them from the bones; lay one-half of them aside, and pound the other to a smooth paste with the eggs and butter. Add the mustard, pepper and vinegar. When these ingredients are well mixed, spread the paste over the prepared slices of toast. On the top lay the other half of the sardines, cut into small strips, stand them in a Dutch oven before the fire and serve very hot. SARDINES ON TOAST Sardines, cayenne, and lemon-juice. Scrape and bone the sardines, lay them on a plate; sprinkle them with lemon-juice and a little cayenne pepper. Stand them in the oven until thoroughly hot; have ready some neat slices of hot-buttered toast; lay the sardines on these and serve at once. This dish may be varied by spreading the toast with an- chovy paste before laying on the sardines. SARDINES AU GRATIN Lift each fish carefully from the oil in which it was put up, hold suspended for a moment to let most of the oil drip FISH 43 from it, squeeze a few drops of lemon-juice upon it and roll in very fine, peppered cracker-dust. Lay upon a buttered tin, or stoneware plate, and brown lightly upon the upper grating of a quick oven. Pass crackers, heated and but- tered, and sliced lemon with them. They are a good luncheon or supper dish. SARDINE SAVOY Cut three slices of bread a little larger than the size of a sardine, fry a delicate brown on both sides, place a sardine on each and make them hot in the oven. Pour over them the following sauce: Beat up two eggs and mix with a quarter ounce of butter, one teaspoon Tarrago vinegar, quarter teaspoon made mustard, salt to taste, and a little Worcester sauce. Put these in a small saucepan and stir over the fire until it thickens (not boils). ANGELS ON HORSEBACK Twelve oysters, twelve round croutons; twelve pieces of bacon two inches long and one-half inch wide. Beard and trim each oyster and put one on each piece of bacon, squeeze on each a drop of lemon juice and a very little cayenne, and roll it up in the bacon. Cook it in a brisk oven (long enough to cook the bacon) and serve very hot, dished on watercress. FRIED OYSTERS Drain and wipe fine large oysters, dip each first in cracker-dust (peppered and salted), then in beaten egg, and again in the cracker, and arrange upon a large cold platter. Set upon ice for half an hour and fry in butter that has been gradually brought to a boil. Cook a few at a time, and if the crumbs come off in the fat, strain them out before the next instalment goes in. 44 FISH SCALLOPED OYSTERS Cover the bottom of a greased bake-dish with oysters, and the oysters with fine cracker-crumbs. Sprinkle these with pepper, salt, and bits of butter ; then lay in more oysters and go on in this order until all are in. The top layer should be of crumbs and well buttered. Pour over each layer of oysters as it goes in, a few spoonfuls of oyster liquor, and upon the crumbs the same quantity of cream. Bake, cov- ered, in a quick oven until hot all through, uncover and brown lightly. Serve with sliced lemon. You may fill clam-shells, or silver or china scallop shells in like manner. SCALLOPED OYSTERS Scald a quart of oysters in their own liquor till plump; drain and place to keep warm ; sauce of one tablespoon each of butter and flour; one cup of hot milk and oyster liquor each; heat in a pan two teaspoons of butter, and brown six tablespoons of bread crumbs, put three tablespoons of chopped celery in the bottom of a bake dish, then the white sauce flavored with salt and pepper to taste, lastly the crumbs on top. Place in oven and heat thoroughly; serve very hot. SCALLOPED OYSTERS Pick over, rinse, drain, and dry the oysters, which should be of fair size. Break an egg into a saucer; add a table- spoonful of warm water and beat just enough to mix. Have ready in a bowl a quantity of fine bread-crumbs. Drop each oyster in the beaten egg, then into the crumbs, and lay in a buttered dish. When the bottom of the dish is covered with the oysters sprinkle over them a little salt and pepper, a few drops of onion-juice and a tablespoonful of chopped celery. Fill the dish in the same order; put over the top one table- spoonful of butter; cut into pieces; pour over one-half of a cupful of thin cream and bake about twenty-five minutes in FISH 45 a hot oven. This amount will be sufficient for thirty oysters. CURRIED OYSTERS 2 doz. oysters. 1 dessertspoonful of flour. 1 onion. 2 oz. of butter. 1 tablespoonful of curry. Juice of a lemon. Chop the onion up quite fine, mix the curry-powder, flour and butter together, and put all these ingredients into a stew-pan, and simmer till of a nice brown, stirring all the time; add the liquor of the oysters and the lemon-juice, and boil together for five minutes. Put in the oysters, boil up once, and serve with a dish of rice. KEBOBBED OYSTERS 50 oysters. celery. 2 tablespoonfuls chopped 2 eggs. parsley. 1 pt. bread-crumbs. 2 tablespoonfuls chopped Butter, salt and pepper. First drain oysters. Beat two eggs and add to them a tablespoonful of oyster liquid. Put on a board a pint of bread-crumbs. Have at your left side an ordinary baking- dish. Lift the oysters by the muscular part, dip them in egg, then in bread-crumbs, and put them at once in the bottom of the baking-dish. Sprinkle over half a teaspoon- ful of salt, a dash of pepper, a sprinkling of parsley and celery; then dip and put in another layer of oysters, etc., until all are used. Cut small pieces of butter over the top and bake in a quick oven for fifteen or twenty minutes. Serve in the dish in which they were baked. These are much better than scalloped oysters, and make a very ac- ceptable luncheon dish. OYSTER COCKTAIL Put three or four oysters in a glass (small lemonade glass), mix cayenne, lemon-juice and tomato sauce, also put 46 FISH a few drops of tobasco sauce (very little). Let all stand in glasses, on ice, for about three hours. Serve glasses on small plate and watercress around the glasses, OYSTER COCKTAIL (For Twelve Persons.) 60 small oysters. 5 tablespoonfuls of AVorces- 3 tablespoonfuls of fine tershire sauce, grated horseradish. 3 tablespoonfuls of tomato 1 teaspoonful of tobasco catsup. sauce. IJ teaspoonfuls of salt. 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar. Clean and chill oysters; mix with sauce and serve in sherry glasses, in grape-fruit or lemon shells, or in tomato cups. If fresh tomatoes are not at hand cups may be shaped from tomato jelly. DRESSING FOR OYSTER COCKTAIL Juice of four lemons, two tablespoonfuls onion juice, six tablespoonfuls tomato catsup, four tablespoonfuls grated horseradish, ten drops of tobasco, one small teaspoonful salt ; add sufficient vinegar to make a thin sauce. FISH LEFT OVER Make one cup tomato sauce by cooking one teaspoonful of minced onion in one teaspoonful of butter until it is yel- low; add a level tablespoonful of flour and when well mixed and bubbling, stir it into a cup of hot stewed tomatoes. When it has cooked a little and is thick, season to taste. Take one part each of cold boiled fish and macaroni with one-quarter cup of cheese; cut into small bits one cold egg. Strain the tomato sauce over them and one-quarter cup of fine cracker crumbs, moistened in one-third cup of melted butter on the top. Bake till brown. FISH 47 BAKED FISH Take any cold boiled fish, free from bones (canned salmon will do), pour over it a cup or more of cream or milk mixed with a little flour, butter, pepper, and salt. Put small bits of butter on top, and bake one-half hour. Cracker crumbs are an improvement. SOLES IN BATTER 1 pair of soles (not thick). | lb. flour. Pepper and salt. 2 oz. butter. Lard or drippings for fry- ^ teaspoonful sail ing. 2 eggs. Batter : Milk to mix it. Fillet the soles, and cut each fillet in two pieces, that they may not be too large, and sprinkle them with pepper and salt. Make a light batter with the above ingredients, taking care that it is not verj^ thin; dip each piece of fish into this, and fry quickly in boiling fat to a golden brown. Arrange them in a circle, one overlapping the other, on a hot dish, and garnish with fresh or fried parsley. They are best served as soon as cooked. Melted butter may be sent to table with them in a tureen, if liked. BAKED COD Middle part of large fresh (parsley, marjoram and cod, or small whole one. thyme). 1 teacup of breadcrumbs A suspicion of onion, peppered and salted. 1 tablespoonful of Harvey's 2 tablespoonfuls of chop- sauce, or anchovy. ped salt pork. | teacup of melted butter. 1 tablespoonful of herbs Juice of half a lemon. 1 beaten egg. Lay the fish in cold, salted water for half an hour, then ■wipe it dry, and stuff it with a force-meat, made of crumbs, pork, herbs, onions and seasoning, bound with the beaten 48 FISH €gg. Lay it in the baking-dish, and pour over it the melted butter, which should be quite thin, seasoned with the sauce, lemon-juice, pepper, and a pinch of parsley. Bake in a moderate oven for an hour, or longer, if the piece is large, basting frequently, lest it should brown too fast. Add a little butter and water if the sauce thickens too much. When the fish is done, rem.ove it to a hot dish, strain the gravy over it, and serve. A few capers or chopped green pickles are considered a pleasant addition to the sauce. SALT CODFISH BALLS Cover six pared or quartered potatoes with boiling water. Put a cupful of picked codfish above the potatoes and cook until tender, drain, mash and season to taste. Add a beaten egg and beat the mixture until light; shape into smooth, light balls, fry in beef fat, smoking hot ; drain carefully and serve at once. CREAMED CODFISH (SALT) Soak all night, changing the water several times and having the last bath quite hot. Boil tender in hot water with a tablespoonful of vinegar. Take out the bones while hot, and let it cool before picking or shredding it into fine flakes. Heat a cupful of milk, stir into it a tablespoonful of butter rolled in one of flour, cook until it thickens well, take from the fire and add two beaten eggs. When these are well mixed, add the shredded fish, and cook two minutes, stirring steadily. A tablespoonful of minced parsley is an improvement, also a little lemon-juice. Season with cay- enne or paprica. Serve hot. CREAMED CODFISH Pick one cup of fish fine, then freshen in cold water ; bring just to a boil, then drain; then take one cupful of good cream and one cupful of milk, two tablespoonfuls of flour; FISH 49. make smooth with some of the milk; add one tablespoonful of butter and more salt if necessary. CODFISH IN CEEAM Shred and soak half a cup of salted codfish over night. In the morning drain, place in a stew-pan, cover with cold water; when it boils, drain; cover again with water and simmer gently for fifteen minutes ; add one cup of rich milk. Rub one spoonful of flour smooth in one spoonful of butter ; add to the codfish; mince one hard-boiled egg, stir into the mixture ; add a pinch of pepper and a teaspoonf ul of minced parsley. Boil up once. CUTLETS OF COD OR SALMON Three pounds of fish cut in slices three-quarters of an inch thick from the body of the fish, a handful of fine bread- crumbs, with which should be mixed pepper and salt, and a little mixed parsley and one egg, beaten light. Enough butter, lard, or dripping to fry the cutlets. Cut each slice of fish into strips, as wide as your two fingers, then dry them with a clean cloth, rub lightly with salt and pepper, dip in the egg, then the breadcrumbs, and fry in enough fat to cover them well. Drain away every drop of fat, and lay upon hot white paper in a heated dish. CODFISH BALLS The purified, shredded codfish, to be bought by the box from any grocer, is best for these. Soak it for two or three hours, then boil for fifteen minutes in water that has had a tablespoonful of vinegar stirred into it, and spread upon a sieve to get cold. Allow to each cupful of fish half as much mashed potato whipped to a soft cream. Mix them together well, make very hot over the fire and beat in a frothed egg for every cupful of fish. Season with pepper. Let the mix- ture get quite cold, make into balls, roll in flour, and set in 50 FISH a cold place to stiffen. If you wish them for breakfast you will do well to make them the night before. Roll again in flour and fry in deep fat to a yellow-brown. SALT COD WITH EGG SAUCE 1 lb. salt cod soaked, boiled 2 tablespoonfuls of butter. and picked up very fine. Little chopped parsley. 1 small cup milk or cream. Half as much mashed potato 1 teaspoonful flour. as fish. 2 eggs beaten light. Pepper to taste. Heat the milk, thicken with the flour, then the potato rubbed very fine; next, the butter, the eggs, and parsley; lastly the fish. Stir and toss until smoking hot all through, when pour into a deep dish. Or, make a sauce of all the ingredients except the fish and potato. Mix these well together with a little melted butter, heat in a saucepan, stirring all the while ; heap in the centre of a dish and pour the sauce over all. SALMON WITH POACHED EGG Stamp out the required number of rounds of bread an inch thick, cut the centres out of these, leaving a case with a narrow rim. Brush over the outsides of cases with melted butter and brown in oven; fill the space in the centre with canned salmon flaked and heated in a cup of cream sauce; lay a poached egg above the salmon ; serve garnished with parsley and sliced lemon. (These are good even without the eggs.) MOULDED SALMON 1 lb. of cold salmon. 1 tablespoonful of fine bread 2 eggs beaten light. crumbs. 2 tablespoonfuls of butter Seasoning of salt. (melted but not hot). Pepper and minced parsley. Chop the fish fine, then rub it in a mortar or bowl with the back of a silver spoon, adding the butter until it is a FISH 51 smooth paste; beat the breadcrumbs ,into the eggs, and season before working all together. Put it into a buttered pudding-mould, and steam or boil for half an hour, Sauee for the Above. — One cup of milk, heated to a boil and thickened with a tablespoonful of cornflour, one large spoonful of butter, one raw egg, one teaspoonful of anchovy, mushroom or tomato catsup, a small pinch of mace, and one of cayenne. Put the egg in last, and very carefully boil one minute to cook it, and when the pudding is turned from the mould, pour over it and serve. This is a nice supper dish, and canned salmon may be used for it if liked, and the liquor added to the sauce. BAKED SALMOIT WITH CREAM SAUCE A middle cut of salmon, four tablespoonfuls of butter, melted in hot water. For the Sauce — A cup of cream, one teaspoonful of cornflour, one tablespoonful of butter, pep- per, salt and parsley. Butter a sheet of foolscap paper on both sides, and wrap the fish up in it, pinning the ends securely together. Lay it in the baking-pan and pour six or seven spoonfuls of butter-and-water over it. Turn another pan over all, and steam in a moderate oven from three-quarters of an hour to an hour, lifting the cover from time to time to baste, and assure yourself that the paper is not burning. Meanwhile have ready in a saucepan a cup of cream, in which you would do well to dissolve a bit of soda a little larger than a pea. This is a wise precaution whenever cream is to be boiled. Heat this in a double boiler, thicken with a heaping teaspoonful of cornflour, add a tablespoonful of butter, pep- per and salt to taste, a liberal pinch of minced parsley ; and when the fish is unwrapped and dished pour half slowly over it, sending the rest to table in a boat. If you have no cream use milk, and add a beaten egg to the thickening. 52 FISH STEAMED SALMON 1 can of salmon. 1 tablespoonful melted but- 1 cup of fine breadcrumbs. ter. 1 teaspoonful of chopped A little milk is an improve- parsley. ment. 2 eggs. Steam in a mould one hour. Make a white sauce ; season with teaspoonful anchovy sauce and pour over the salmon when served. This is a luncheon dish. SALMON CREAM ^ can salmon well blended, 8 tablespoonfuls milk or Yolks of two eggs. cream, 2 pinches of salt. Small piece of butter. I teaspoonful of cayenne. 2 tablespoonfuls of bread- ^ teaspoonful mace. crumbs. Small piece of onion. Mix well, put in mould and steam; serve with butter sauce. Butter Sauce. — Butter size of an egg, two tablespoonfuls flour, pinch of salt; mix well on stove, add boiling water, stirring all the time, SMOKED SALMON Soak over night, changing the water three times for warmer. In the morning rub hard to get rid of the smoke and rust, leave in ice-water half an hour, wipe dry, rub with oHve oil and vinegar and broil over a clean fire. Pass sliced lemon with it. A QUICK RELISH OF SMOKED SALMON Half a pound of smoked salmon cut into narrow strips; two tablespoonfuls of butter ; juice of half a lemon ; cayenne pepper. Parboil the salmon ten minutes ; lay in cold water for the same length of time ; wipe dry, and broil over a clear FISH 53 fire. Butter while hot, season with cayenne and lemon- juice, pile in a "log-cabin" square upon a hot plate, and send up with dry toast. SALMON IN A MOULD Drain the liquor from one can of salmon, and remove the bones and skin. Chop fine and rub into it until smooth, four tablespoonfuls of melted butter, season with salt, pepper and minced parsley, also a little celery, if liked. Beat four eggs well, add half a cupful of cracker-crumbs, mix all welL and thoroughly. Put into a buttered mould and steam one hour. Sauce. — Boil one cupful of milk and thicken with one tablespoonful of cornstarch; add to the liquor from the salmon, one tablespoonful of butter, one egg, and one teaspoonful of catsup. Put the egg in last and very care- fully. Boil one minute. Turn the salmon out of the mould and pour the sauce around. CREAMED SALMON Delightful supper dish easily prepared. Take a tin of salmon, empty on a dish and flake with a fork. Have ready a sauce made in double boiler from one pint of milk, butter size of an egg, one teaspoonful of flour, with salt and cayenne pepper to taste. Melt butter and flour until smooth and add milk slowly. When it boils re- move from fire and add two well-beaten eggs. Put alter- nate layers of salmon and sauce in baking dish until all is used; cover with layer of cracker or bread-crumbs; bake fifteen minutes and serve hot. SALMON LOAF 1 can of salmon minced. -J cup of breadcrumb. 4 eggs. Season with salt and pepper, 4 tablespoonfuls of melted butter. "64 FISH Pick fish fine; rub butter smooth; beat the crumbs into the eggs, and season before mixing; steam one hour in a buttered mold. Sauce — One cup of milk thickened with one tablespoouful of cornstarch, one tablcspoonful butter; add the liquor otf the fish and one raw egg, then pour over the loaf. BOILED SALMON Sew up the fish in a piece of thin muslin, or mosquito- netting, fitted well to it, and boil in salted boiling water to which two tablespoonfuls of vinegar have been added. Take off the cloth carefully when the fish has boiled twelve min- utes to the pound, and lay upon a hot platter. Pour over it a few spooufuls of egg sauce into which has been stirred a tablespoouful of capers, and serve the rest in a gravy-boat. Garnish with nasturtiums, or parsley, or cresses. EELS STEWED A L' AMERICAN 3 lbs. eels, skinned, cleaned, 4 tablespoonfuls of butter. and fat removed from in- Pepper and salt. side. Little chopped parsley. 1 young onion chopped. Cut the eels in pieces, about two inches in length ; season and lay in a saucepan containing the melted butter. Strew the onion and parsley over all, cover the saucepan closely, and set in a pot of cold water. Bring this gradually to a boil, then cook very gently for an hour and a half, or until the eels are tender. Turn out into a deep dish. MAYONNAISE OF FISH 1 lb. of fish, cooked. 1 teaspoonful of salt. 3 hard-boiled eggs. | teaspoonful mustard. 2 tablespoonfuls of best oil. ^ teaspoonful pepper. 6 tablespoonfuls of vinegar. 2 heads blanched lettuce. 2 teaspoonfuls of sugar. FISH 5S Rub the yolks of the eggs smooth with the oil, add the sugar, salt, mustard and pepper, and when these are well mixed, the vinegar, a few drops at a time. Set it by, cov- ered, while you cut — not chop — the fish into strips about an inch long, and shred the lettuce. Mix these in a salad bowl, pour over the dressing and garnish with rings of the whites of the eggs. Serve as soon as it is ready or the lettuce will become limp. If preferred, the lettuce may be laid around the fish after the dressing is poured on, instead of being mixed with it. FISH CUTLET 2 cups of boiled fish. 1 tablespoonful of chopped 1 cup of milk or cream. parsley. 1 large tablespoonful of Pepper and salt to taste (lit- butter. tie onion juice and nutmeg, 3 tablespoonfuls of flour. if you wish). Yolks of 2 eggs. Put milk on to boil, rub butter and flour together well and add to milk, then parsley. Add yolks of eggs, then the fish and stir until well mixed, then season. When cold form into cutlets; roll with a little flour, dip in egg and then in breadcrumbs. Fry in dripping. Sauce. — Tablespoonful of melted butter, one of flour, stir smoothly, add one cup of milk ; salt and pepper. FISH BALLS A LA NORRIS 1-J cups of minced fish. 1 tablespoonful of chopped f of a tablespoonful of but- parsley. ter. ^ teaspoonful of celery salt, f of a cup of milk. Grating of nutmeg. 1^ tablespoonfuls of flour. Salt and pepper. Butter and flour put in saucepan stirred until well blended; add milk, cook, stirring constantly till it leaves 58 FISH bottom and sides of pan; add flavorings, seasoning and fish; mix well together; form into balls without using flour; arrange down the centre of a dish which has been garnished with a puree of peas and potatoes (using pastry bag). Garnish with parsley. FISH ENTREE 1 can salmon, A small piece of butter. 2 eggs well beaten. Pepper and salt. 1 cup breadcrumbs. Put in a bowl and steam two hours. Serve with a drawn- butter sauce, in which can be added two hard-boiled eggs, chopped fine. CROaUETTES OF LOBSTER Meat of 1 fine lobster well rubbed to powder, then boiled. beaten into the butter. 2 eggs. 1 good teaspoonful of lemon 2 tablespoonfuls of butter. juice. I cup of fine breadcrumbs. Pinch of mace and lemon peel. 1 teaspoonful of anchovy Yolks of 2 raw eggs beaten sauce. very light. Yolks of 2 eggs, boiled and Salt and cayenne pepper. Mince the meat, work in the butter, melted, but not hot; then the seasoning, the raw eggs, and lastly the bread- crumbs. Make into oblong balls, set on the ice for two hours and fry quickly in deep cottolene. Drain them of every drop of fat by rolling each, for an instant, very lightly upon a hot, clean cloth. Be sure your dish is well heated. Crab croquettes are made in the same way. CURRIED LOBSTER 2 cups of lobster dice. 2 teaspoonfuls of curry pow- 2 cups weak stock. der. 1 teaspoonful minced onion. Saltspoon of salt. FISH 57 Fry the onion in the butter, add the salt, the stock, the eurry, and cook gently for five minutes, before putting in the lobster. Serve as soon as this is thoroughly heated. Pass plain boiled rice with this dish. BERLINER LOBSTER 1 fresh lobster. ^ pt. cream. Butter size of egg. 1 small glass sherry. Yolks 3 eggs. Salt and paprica to taste. One lobster, cut into small pieces, put in butter, melt quickly in double boiler. Beat up yolks eggs with cream; beat slowly while standing in another dish of hot water till creamy, then take off the fire. Add salt and paprica to taste and small glass of best sherry. Pour over lobster and serve quickly and hot. SAVORY CREAM (COLD ENTREE) A small lobster or 1 can 1 tablespoonful of mayon- passed through a sieve. naise. ^ pt. of cream. ^ oz. or little more of gela- 1 gill tomato juice. tine. 1 gill aspic jelly. Put a little aspic jelly in the bottom of a border mould, decorate with small pieces of lobster and small leaves of parsley. Beat gelatine in tomato juice, whip the cream; also whip the aspic. Mix these together. Stir in the may- onnaise and the melted gelatine and tomato, also your lob- ster. Fill the mould carefully and set. When cold turn out and fill the centre with small salad. LOBSTER CUTLET A dainty little dish is made from half a tin of lobster drained, the juice saved for panada of one ounce of butter, 68 FISH one ounce of flour, half a teaspoonful of salt, a dash of pep- per, preferably cayenne; one gill of lobster juice; if not enough juice add milk. Boil well, add two tablespoonfuls cream and one of lemon-juice; stir in lobster, chopped fine; beat all well together and cool. When set divide in small portions, form cutlets ; for bone stick in a small bit of maca- roni; egg and biscuit-crumb the cutlets and fry in butter. To be served in a circle round a centre of fried parsley. SCALLOPED LOBSTER Butter the dish, chop the lobster quite fine; layer of lob- ster and cracker-crumbs alternately; salt, pepper, and but- ter; moisten with milk. Bake for twenty minutes. SALT MACKEEEL WITH TOMATO SAUCE Proceed as with boiled mackerel, but when dished, pour over it, instead of the white sauce, one of tomatoes, stewed, strained, seasoned with onion-juice, pepper, salt, and sugar, and thickened with a brown roux of butter and flour. Let the fish lie in this for ten minutes and serve. SMOKED HERRIITG, ALEWIVES, BLOATERS, ETC. "Wash thoroughly, wipe dry, wrap them in clean, wet manilla paper, and leave in a quick oven for fifteen minutes. Serve with sliced lemon. FINNAN HADDIE A Scotch delicacy 'that is becoming popular with us. Wash thoroughly, leave in cold water half an hour, then for five minutes in very hot. Wipe, rub over with butter and lemon-juice and broil fifteen minutes. FISH 59 STEWED FKOGS' LEGS Skin, lay in milk for fifteen minutes ; roll in peppered and salted flour, and saute in hot butter for three minutes. Cover (barely) with hot water, and stew tender. Twenty minutes should suffice. Heat half a cupful of cream to boiling, stir in a tablespoonful of butter rolled in flour, boil up, and turn into the saucepan w'here the frogs' legs are simmering. Season with pepper, salt, and a little chopped parsley. Cook gently for three minutes and serve. FRIED FROGS' LEGS Only the hind legs are eatable. They are very good, having a curious resemblance to the most delicate spring chicken. Skin, wash, and lay in milk for fifteen minutes. Without wiping them, pepper and salt, and coat with flour. Fry in deep boiling fat to a light brown. Or — AVipe off the milk, dip in egg and pounded cracker, and fry. CLAMS A LA FINANCIERE 2 doz. clams. | teaspoonful chopped onion. 1 slice mild ham. 1 tablespoonful chopped cel- 1 teaspoonful chopped pars- ery. ley. -J can French mushrooms. Salt and red pepper. ^ can French peas. Open clams, taking care to retain all the liquor found in shell, also shells to serve up in. Stew in their own liquor for five minutes, cut into pieces the size of peas. Take ham, cut into small dice; place in a small saucepan on fire with sufficient butter to prevent burning; fry to a light ^60 FISH brown color, then add chopped onions, chopped celerj^; mushrooms, peas; parsley. Mix in the clams and their liquor. Season to taste with red pepper and salt; stew for fifteen minutes. Serve in their own shell made hot, with borders of mashed potatoes and garnished with parsley and lemon. BOILED BASS Put enough water in the pot for the fish to swim in easily. Add half a cupful of vinegar, a teaspoonful of salt, an onion, a dozen black peppers, and a blade of mace. Sew up the fish in a piece of clean mosquito-netting, fitted to its shape. Heat slowly for the first half hour, then boil twelve minutes to the pound, quite fast. Unwrap, and pour over it a cup of drawn-butter, based upon the liquor in which the fish was boiled, with the juice of half a lemon stirred into it. Garnish with sliced lemon. BROILED SALT MACKEREL "Wash and scrape the fish. Soak all night, changing the water at bed-time for tepid, and again early in the morning for almost scalding. Keep this hot for an hour by setting the vessel containing the soaking fish on the side of the range. Wash, now, in cold water with a stiff brush or rough cloth, wipe perfectly dry, rub all over with salad oil and vinegar, or lemon-juice, and let it lie in this marinade for a quarter of an hour before broiling it over clear coals. Lay on a hot dish and spread with a mixture of butter, lemon- juice, and minced parsley. The mackerel will be so far superior to that cooked in the old-fashioned way that it will amply repay you for the trifling additional work. FISH 61 FRIED PICKEREL Clean, wipe dry, roll in salted and peppered flour, or dip in egg and roll in seasoned cracker-dust, and fry quickly in deep cottolene or oil brought slowly to the boil. BROOK TROUT Clean, wash, and dry the fish, handling tenderly, not to mar its beauty or flavor, roll in salted and peppered flour, and fry in deep fat to a delicate brown. Serve up on folded tissue-paper in a hot-water dish, if you have one. The simpler the seasoning the better. FILLETS OF HALIBUT, BLACK-FISH, BASS, ETC. The word fillet, whether applied to fish, poultry, game, or butcher's meat, means simply the flesh of either (or of cer- tain portions of it), raised clear from the bones in a hand- some form, and divided or not, as the manner in which it is to be served may require. It is an elegant mode of dressing various kinds of fish, and even those which are not the most highly esteemed, afford an excellent dish when thus pre- pared. The fish to be filleted with advantage, should be large ; the flesh may then be divided down the middle of the back, next separated from the fins, and with a very sharp knife raised clean from the bones. When thus prepared, the fillets may be divided, trimmed into a good form, egged, covered with fine crumbs, fried in the usual wa}^, and served with the same sauces as the whole fish ; or each fillet may be rolled up, in its entire length, if very small, or after being once divided, if large, and fastened with a slight twine, or a short thin skewer; then egged, crumbed, and fried in plenty of boiling lard; or merely well floured, and fried from eight to ten minutes. When the fish are not very large, they are sometimes boned without being parted in the middle, and 62 FISH each side is rolled from the tail to the head, after being first spread with butter, a few bread-crumbs, and a high season- ing of mace and cayenne; or with pounded lobster mixed with a large portion of the coral, and the same seasoning, and proportion of butter; then laid into a dish, well covered with crumbs of bread and clarified butter, and baked from twelve to sixteen minutes, or until the crumbs are colored to a fine brown in a moderate oven. The fillets may likewise be cut into small strips or squares of uniform size, lightly dredged with pepper or cayenne, salt, and flour, and fried in butter over a brisk fire; then well drained, and sauced with a good bechamel, flavored with a teaspoonful of minced parsley. COLLOPED HALIBUT Cut the fish into nice cutlets, of about an inch thick, and fry them ; then put them into a broth made of the bones, four onions, a stick of celery, and a bundle of sweet herbs, boiled together for half an hour. Strain this broth, thicken, then flour and lay them in a stew-pan with some good broth, and let them stew gently until perfectly tender; thicken the gravy with butter or cream, add a spoonful of sauce, half a glass of wine, and serve it up with capers strewed over the top, and garnished with slices of lemon. HALIBUT Partakes somewhat of the flavor of the turbot, and grows to an enormous size, being sometimes caught weighing more than one hundred weight; the best size is, however, from twenty to forty pounds, as, if much larger, it is coarse. The most esteemed parts are the flakes over the fins, and the pickings about the head; but on account of its great bulk, it is commonly cut up and sold in collops, or in pieces of a FISH 63 few pounds weight, at a very reasonable rate. A small one cut in thin slices and crimped, is very good eating. BOILED HALIBUT Take a small halibut, or what you require from a large fish. Put it into the fish-kettle, with the back of the fish undermost, cover it with cold water, in which a handful of salt, and a bit of saltpetre the size of a hazelnut, have been dissolved. When it begins to boil, skim it carefully, and then let it just simmer till it is done. Four pounds of fish will require nearly thirty minutes to boil it. Drain it, garnish with horseradish or parsley — egg sauce or plain melted butter are served with it. ROAST STUBGEON Put a good-sized piece in a large cradle-spit (five or six pounds will make a handsome dish for the head of the table) ; stuff it with force-meat; keep it at the fire for two or three hours, but remove the skin ; cover it with crumbs of bread, and brown it with the salamander ; baste it constantly with butter, and serve with a good brown gravy, an an- chovy, a squeeze of Seville orange or lemon, and a glass of sherry boiled up, and poured into the dish, STURGEON CUTLETS Cut in slices quarter of an inch thick ; dry, flour, and egg them; dip in crumbs, seasoned with pepper, salt, parsley, and thyme; fry them, and serve with Indian pickle, tomato, or piquant sauce. FISH OMELET Cook together one level tablespoonful of flour and one of butter; add gradually half a cup of hot milk and a little pepper. Pour boiling w'ater on a half-cupful of shredded 64 FISH codfish, drain and mix with the thickened milk, then add two cupfuls of cold boiled potatoes chopped fine. Melt a tahlespoonful of butter in a spider; when hot turn in fish and cook slowly until a thick crust has formed; then fold over and serve on hot platter. BOILED WHITEFISH Lay the fish open ; put it in a dripping pan, with the back down; nearly cover with water; to one fish put two table- spoonfuls of salt; cover tightly and simmer (not boil) one- half hour; dress with gravy, butter and pepper; garnish with sliced eggs. For sauce use a piece of butter the size of an egg, one tahlespoonful of flour, one-half pint boiling water; boil a few minutes, and add three hard-boiled eggs, shred. BROILED WHITEFISH— PEESH Wash and drain the fish ; sprinkle with pepper and lay with the inside down upon the gridiron, and broil over fresh bright coals. When a nice brown, turn for a moment on the other side, then take up and spread with butter. This is a very nice way of broiling all kinds of fish, fresh or salted. A little smoke under the fish adds to its flavor. This may be made by putting two or three cobs under the gridiron. BAKED BLACK BASS 8 good sized onions chopped Butter size of an egg. fine. Plenty of salt and pepper. Half that quantity of bread- Mix thoroughly with anchovy crumbs. sauce until quite red. Stuff your fish with this compound and pour the rest over it, previously sprinkling it with a little red pepper. Shad, pickerel and trout are good the same way. Tomatoes can be used instead of anchovies, and are more economical. If using them take pork in place of butter and chop fine. FISH 65 TURBOT Steam till tender one large whitefish; remove bones and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Dressing — Heat one pint of milk thickened with two tablespoonfuls of flour; when cold add two eggs and one-fourth of a pound of butter. Put into a baking-dish a layer of the fish and a layer of dress- ing; season with one-half teaspoonful of onion-juice; cover top with bread-crumbs, and bake one-half hour. FRICASSEE OF SHRIMP One quart of tomatoes, one quart of water, and onion to suit the taste, stewed together until the tomatoes can be passed through a sieve. After steaming stew with season- ing (season highly), and a tablespoonful of butter creamed with a little flour, for fifteen minutes; add two cans of shrimps, carefully washed. Heat thoroughly and serve with rice. SMELTS Clean the smelts by drawing them between the finger and thumb, beginning at the tail. This will press out the insides at the opening at the gills. "Wash them and drain in a co- lander ; salt well and dip in beaten egg and bread or cracker- crumbs. Dip first in the egg and then roll in the crumbs. Fry in boiling fat deep enough to float them. They should be a handsome brown in two minutes and a half. Take them up and place them on a sheet of brown paper for a few minutes to drain, then pour on a hot dish. Garnish with parsley and a few slices of lemon. G6 FISH WRITTEN RECIPES FISH 67 WRITTEN RECIPES 68 ^ISH WRITTEN RECIPES j FISH 69 WRITTEN RECIPES MEATS In the selection of meat it is most essential that we under- stand how to choose it; in beef it should be a smooth, fine grain, of a clear bright red color, the fat white, and will feel tender when pinched with the fingers. Will also have abun- dant kidney fat or suet. The most choice pieces for roast are the sirloin, fore and middle ribs. Veal, to be good, should have the flesh firm and dry, fine grained and of a delicate pinkish color, and plenty of kidney fat; the joints stiff. Mutton is good when the flesh is a bright red, firm and juicy and a close grain, the fat firm and white. Pork, if young, the lean will break on being pinched smooth when nipped with the fingers, also the skin will break and dent ; if the rind is rough and hard it is old. In roasting meat, allow from fifteen to twenty minutes to the pound, which will vary according to the thickness of the roast. A great deal of the success in roasting depends on the heat and goodness of the fire ; if put into a cool oven it loses its juices, and the result is a tough, tasteless roast ; whereas, if the oven is of the proper heat, it immediately sears up the pores of the meat and the juices are retained. The oven should be the hottest when the meat is put into it, in order to quickly crisp the surface and close the porea of the meat, thereby confining its natural juices. If the oven is too hot to hold the hand in for only a moment, then the oven is right to receive the meat. The roast should first be washed in pure water, then wiped dry with a clean dry cloth, placed in a baking-pan, without any seasoning; some pieces of suet or cold drippings laid under it, but no water should be put into the pan, for this would have a tendency to 70 MEATS 71 soften the outside of the meat. The water can never get so hot as the hot fat upon the surface of the meat, and the generating of the steam prevents its crispness, so desirable in a roast. It should be frequently basted with its own drippings which flow from the meat when partly cooked, and well sea- soned. Lamb, veal and pork should be cooked rather slower than beef, with a more moderate fire, covering the fat with a piece of paper, and thoroughly cooked till the flesh parts from the bone; and nicely browned, without being burned. An onion sliced and put on top of a roast while cooking, especially roast of pork, gives a nice flavor. Remove the onion before serving. Larding meats is drawing ribbons of fat pork through the upper surface of the meat, leaving both ends protruding. This is accomplished by the use of a larding-needle, which may be procured at house-furnishing stores. Boiling or stewing meat, if fresh, should be put into boil- ing water, closely covered, and boiled slowly, allowing twenty minutes to each pound, and when partly cooked, or when it begins to get tender, salted, adding spices and vegetables. Salt meats should be covered with cold water, and require thirty minutes' very slow boiling, from the time the water boils, for each pound; if it is very salt, pour off the first water, and put it in another of boiling water, or it may be soaked one night in cold water. After meat commences to boil, the pot should never stop simmering and always be re- plenished from the boiling tea-kettle. Frying m'j be done in two ways: one method, which is most generally used, is by putting one ounce or more (as the case requires) of beef drippings, lard or butter, into a frying. pan, and when at the boiling point, laying in the meat, cook- ing both sides a nice brown. The other method is to com- pletely immerse the article to be cooked in sufficient hot lard to cover it, similar to frying doughnuts. 72 MEATS Broiled meats should be placed over clear, red coals, free from smoke, giving out a good heat, but not too brisk, or the meat will be hardened and scorched ; but if the fire is dead, the gravy will escape, and drop upon the coals, creating a blaze, which will blacken and smoke the meat. Steaks and chops should be turned often, in order that every part should be evenly done — never sticking a fork into the lean part, as that lets the juices escape; it should be put into the outer skin or fat. When the meat is sufficiently broiled, it should be laid on a hot dish and seasoned. The best pieces for steak are the porter-house, sirloin, and rump. THAWING FROZEN MEAT If meat, poultrj^ fish, vegetables, or any other article of food, when found frozen, is thawed by putting it into warm water or placing it before the fire, it will most certainly spoil by that process, and be rendered unfit to eat. The only way to thaw these things is by immersing them in cold water. This should be done as soon as they are brought in from market, that they may have time to be well thawed before they are cooked. If meat that has been frozen is to be boiled, put it on in cold water. If to be roasted, begin by setting it at a distance from the fire; for if it should not chance to be thoroughly thawed all through to the centre, placing it at first too near the fire will cause it to spoil. If it is expedient to thaw the meat or poultry the night before cooking, lay it in cold water early in the evening, and change the water at bedtime. If found crusted with ice in the morn- ing, remove the ice, and put the meat in fresh cold water, letting it lie in it till wanted for cooking. This will keep it tender. Potatoes are injured by being frozen. Other vegetables are not the worse for it, provided they are always thawed in cold water. MEATS 73 TO KEEP MEAT FKOM FLIES Put in sacks, with enough straw around it so the flies can- not reach through. Three-fourths of a yard of yard-wide muslin is the right size of the sack. Put a little straw in the bottom, then put in the ham, and lay straw in all around it ; tie it tightly, and hang it in a cool, dry place. Be sure the straw is all around the meat, so the flies cannot reach through to deposit the eggs. (The sacking must be done early in the season before the fly appears.) Muslin lets the air in and is much better than paper. Then muslin is as good as thick, and will last for years if washed when laid away when emptied. EOAST BEEF One very essential point in roasting beef is to have the oven well heated when the beef is first put in ; this causes the pores to close up quickly, and prevents the escape of the juices. Take a rib piece or loin roast of seven or eight pounds. Wipe it thoroughly all over with a clean wet towel. Lay it in a dripping-pan, and baste it well with butter or suet fat. Set it in the oven. Baste it frequently with its own drip- pings, which will make it brown and tender. When partly done season with salt and pepper, as it hardens any meat to salt it when raw, and draws out its juices ; then dredge with sifted flour to give it a frothy appearance. It will take a roast of this size about two hours' time to be properly done, leaving the inside a little rare or red — half an hour less would make the inside quite rare. Remove the beef to a heated dish, set where it will keep hot; then skim the drip- pings from all fat, add a tablespoonful of sifted flour, a little pepper and a teacupful of boiling water. Boil up once and serve hot in a gravy-boat. Some prefer the clear gravy without the thickening. Serve with mustard or grated horseradish and vinegar. 74 MEATS YORKSHIRE PUDDING This is a very nice accompaniment to a roast of beef; the ingredients are, one pint of milk, four eggs, white and yolks beaten separately, one teaspoonful of salt, and two teaspoon- fuls of baking powder sifted through two cups of flour. It should be mixed very smooth, about the consistency of cream. Regulate your time when you put in your roast, so that it will be done half an hour or forty minutes before dishing up. Take it from the oven, set it where it will keep hot. In the meantime have this pudding prepared. Take two common biscuit tins, dip some of the drippings from the dripping-pan into these tins, pour half of the pudding into each, set them into the hot oven, and keep them in until the dinner is dished up ; take these puddings out at the last moment and send to the table hot. This I consider much better than the old way of baking the pudding under the meat. BROILED STEAK Rump steak, about an inch thick, butter, pepper, and salt. Butter a sheet of white paper and twist the four corners so as to form a little tray, lay the steak in this and broil quickly from five to ten minutes, turning it once in the paper while cooking. When done lay it on a hot dish, season with pepper and salt, add a little bit of butter, and serve at once. Steak cooked in this way is much nicer than if broiled without the paper. BEEF CAKES 1 lb. under-cooked roast beef. Salt and pepper. ^ lb. of ham or bacon. 1 large egg. 1 teaspoonful of sweet herbs. Mince the beef and ham, add herbs, etc., and mix with the egg, which must be previously well beaten; brush each cake MEATS 75 over with a little white of egg ; cover with breadcrumbs, and fry quickly for five minutes. BROWNED MINCE OF BEEF Remains of cold roast beef. Breadcrumbs. ^ as much potato, mashed. Seasoning of salt, pepper, 1 cup of gravy. mustard and catsup. Mince the meat very fine, mix with it the potato, and sea- son well ; add the cup of gravy, work all together and make very hot in a saucepan. Pile upon a dish, cover with fine breadcrumbs, and brown quickly in the oven. It is much improved by putting bits of butter over the top as it begins to brown. Serve in the dish it is baked in. BEEAKFAST DISH OF BEEF Cold roast beef. A little salt and pepper, 3 tablespoonfuls of walnut A dessertspoonful of currant catsup. jelly. 1 teaspoonful of vinegar, A little warm water. Cut thin slices of cold roast beef, and lay them in a tin saucepan set in a pot of boiling water, and cover them with gravy made of the above ingredients. Cover tightly, and steam for half an hour, keeping the water in the outer vessel on a hard boil. If the meat is underdone, this is particularly nice. BEEF CROaiTETTES Minced cold beef. Season with catsup, pepper, I as much mashed potato. salt and a pinch of mar- Gravy enough to moisten joram. them, in which an onion Fine breadcrumbs. has been cooked. 1 egg. Mash the potatoes, while hot, very smooth, or if cold pota- 7G MEATS toes be used, see they are free from lumps ; mix in the meat, gravy, and seasoning, bind all together with the beaten egg and form into the desired shapes; roll them in fine bread- crumbs, and fry quickly to a light brown. Drain on soft paper before the fire till free from fat, and serve hot, TIMBALE DE VOLAILLE Cut a cooked chicken into small pieces; chop up mush- room, ham, and truffles, and stir into white sauce. Line a mould with pieces of macaroni, cooked, cut in even lengths; fill in with the volaille and steam one hour. Turn out very carefully. Serve with white or brown sauce. LAMB HARICOT 2 lbs. chops. Pepper and salt. 1 slice onion. 1 cup hot water. 2 carrots. Brown chops; brown carefully a sliced onion; add carrots cut in pieces, pepper, salt, and a cup of hot water; cook slowly two hours. Add more water if necessary; thicken slightly with brov i' 1 flour when cooked. A little minced parsley improves the haricot. GOOD BEEF STEW Take a good round steak, two or three pounds; brown well on both sides in butter. Then add a pint of water; cook very slowly well covered two hours, then add pepper, salt and minced onion if liked, and cook half an hour longer. The addition of stoned olives and mushrooms improve this very much. MEATS 77 BERLIN KIDNEY 6 lamb's kidneys. 2 tablespoonful Worcester- 1 cup green peas. shire. ^ onion, chopped. 1 cup gravy with stock. 1 tablespoonful flour. Cut lamb kidneys, skin and fry in butter for a few min- utes. Mix all together until thoroughly heated. STEWED BREAST OF LAMB One breast of lamb, pepper and salt to taste, sufficient stock to cover it, thickening of butter and flour. Skin the lamb and cut into pieces, and season them with pepper and salt ; lay these in a stew-pan with sufficient stock of gravy to cover them, and stew gently for an hour and a half. Just before serving, thicken the gravy with a little butter and flour, give one boil, and pour it over the meat. Have ready a pint and a half of green peas and lay them over and around the meat. A few stewed mushrooms will be found an improvement if they can be obtained, but they are not necessary for this dish. MINCED LAMB, WITH POACHED EGGS Remains of cold roast lamb, one good cup of gravy, pepper, salt, seasoning of mint, poached eggs, buttered toast. Trim the meat and mince it finely, well seasoned with pepper, salt, and a little mint. Put the gravy into a sauce- pan (make it from the bones if you have no other), and let it get hot ; then stir in the mince and let all become very hot, but do not let it boil, thicken with a little brown flour, and pile on a flat dish. Have ready a few slices of buttered toast, cut into neat squares, lay a poached egg on each, place these around or upon the mince, and serve. 78 MEATS AMERICAN FRITTERS Slices of undercooked roast beef or mutton ; for the batter, one-half pound flour, one large or two small eggs, salt, milk ; lard or dripping for frying. Cut the meat into moderately thick slices, and as neat a shape as possible, pepper and salt each piece, then make a batter in the above proportions, taking care that it is not very thin. Have ready a pan of boiling lard or dripping, dip each piece of meat into the batter, and fry quickly to a light brown. Serve on a hot dish, and garnish with a thick border of fried apples. BOILED BRAINS Calf's or bullock's brains, pepper and salt, marjoram or sage, sippets of toasted bread. Steep the brains in lukewarm water for two hours to draw the blood, then tie in muslin, put into boiling water and boil for twenty minutes ; take them up, drain in a colander, then turn into a basin and beat thoroughly with a fork, season with plenty of pepper and salt and a little marjoram or sage — sage is best. Put on a hot dish, pour over a good melted butter sauce, and garnish with sippets of toast. This makes a good breakfast or supper dish. Care must be taken in pre- paring it to have all the basins and dishes very hot. ROULADES OF BEEF Slices of undercooked roast beef, slices of boiled ham, one- egg, pepper and mustard, a little thick gravy, fine crumbs; butter or dripping for frying. Cut the beef into thin, even, oblong slices, the ham rather thinner and smaller; spread one side of the beef with mus- tard, and pepper the ham. Lay the ham upon the beef and roll up together as lightly as possible; brush over with the egg, roll each in the crumbs, and pierce through with a MEATS 79 slender skewer, in such a manner as to keep the roll pinned together. Put several on each skewer, but do not let them touch one another ; fry brown, lay on a hot dish, and gently withdraw the skewers, then pour the gravy boiling hot over them, and serve. Small roulades are a nice garnish for game and roast poultry. BEEF OLIVES Slices of undercooked roast beef, breadcrumbs, sweet herbs, pepper and salt, and gravy. Cut the slices of meat very thin, spread upon each slice a stuffing made from the above ingredients, roll up tightly, and tie with string. Ha-ve ready in a saucepan some good brown gravy, lay in the olives, and let them simmer for about half an hour. Take up, remove the string carefully that the shape may not be spoiled, pour the gravy over, and serve hot. VEAL SHAPE 1^ lbs. veal. Pepper and salt. 1 lemon. 3 hard-boiled eggs. 1 slice of ham. Stew the meat, with the thin rind of the lemon, in a very little water till quite tender. When done, cut up both veal and ham into small pieces, mince the lemon rind finely, and set these aside to cool. Strain the stock, add the lemon- juice and seasonings, and let this also cool. Cut the eggs into slices, and arrange them in a plain mould or dish, pour in the cool stock and meat, and set aside till quite cold, when it should turn out whole. This makes an excellent break- fast dish. STEWED STEAK AND MACARONI 1^ lbs. of steak or other lean | lb. of macaroni, beef. Butter for frying. 1 tablespoonful of catsup. A little flour. 80 MEATS Cut the beef in small pieces, roll it in flour, and fry slightly in a little butter ; put it into a stew-pan, cover with hot water, and allow it to simmer slowly for an hour and a half; then add the macaroni and simmer again for three- quarters of an hour; season with pepper, salt, and catsup, and stew for ten minutes after the seasoning is added. Serve on a hot dish, the beef in the centre, and the macaroni round. SWISS PATES Cold roast veal or fowl. 1 egg (well beaten). A little white sauce. Fine breadcrumbs. Rounds of stale bread. Lard or drippings for frying. ]VIince the meat finely, season well with some of the forcemeat or a little lemon peel, mix with thin white sauce, and set it near the fire to heat, stirring that it may not burn. Cut rather thick slices of baker's bread into rounds with a cake cutter; with a smaller cutter extract a piece from the middle of each round, taking care not to let the sharp edge go quite through, but leaving enough in the cavity to serve as a bottom to the pate. Dip the hollowed pieces of bread in the egg, strew them with fine crumbs, and fry in boiling fat to a delicate brown. Drain every drop of the fat from them by laying them on soft paper before the fire, then fill each with the hot mince, pile on a dish, garnish with parsley, and serve. BROILED LAMB OR MUTTON Cut slices from the hind-quarter, about "four fingers" in size and an inch and a half thick. Cut slits in it, pound and season with a little salt, pepper and onion juice. Sprinkle a little powdered mint in the slits, place on a buttered grid- iron and broil over a clear fire, turning often until done. Serve very hot. MEATS 81 SMYEITA STEAK Chop beef or mutton very fine, and season with juice of onion, salt and pepper, add fine breadcrumbs and several beaten eggs. Mix well, make into rolls and brown in hot butter in a frying-pan. Then put in a kettle, cover with melted butter and a little tomato juice, and simmer gently until tender. BAKED COLD ROAST BEEF Place a layer of the slices in the bottom of a shallow pud- ding dish, put pepper and salt, and a small slice of onion, on each, and cold gravy or little pieces of butter, then put in another layer of meat until all is used ; cover the top with a layer of mashed potatoes. Bake for half an hour, or until the top is nicely browned SAVORY GRILL 1 tablespoonful of Worces- 1 dessertspoonful of York- tershire sauce. shire relish. 1 dessertspoonful of chut- | teaspoonful of anchovy ney sauce. sauce. Butter the size of a walnut. Cut up any cold meat or fowl, and sprinkle with flour on both sides ; place the mixture above in any dish that will stand the heat of the top of the stove ; mix well ; allow it to heat slowly and thoroughly. CURRIED MUTTON 1 pt. stock. Boil together slowly. Juice of ^ lemon. 2 lbs. raw or rare mutton, cut 2 oz. of butter. in inch squares. 1 teaspoonful of sugar. Salt, pepper and curry. Boil one sour apple with meat in sufficient water to stew, 82 MEATS add curry and pepper and salt to taste ; when serving add a gill of cream. Boil a cupful of Patna rice in two quarts of boiling water twenty minutes, strain through colander and shake well. Make a wall of the rice around the serving dish, pour in the mixture and garnish with parsley ; serve very hot. SCOTCH HAGGIS Procure the bag and pluck of a sheep, clean the bag very carefully, parboil the heart, lights and liver for an hour and a half. Let them cool, and then mince very fine ; mince also a pound of fresh suet and grate the parboiled liver. Mix this along with two handfuls of oatmeal (previously browned in the oven), a few onions, black pepper, allspice and salt to taste. Take the bag and wash it first with cold water, then with boiling water. "When quite clean fill in the mince, but do not let it be more than half full, else the bag will burst. Add a little of the liquid in which the meat was parboiled, and sew up the bag. Put it in boiling water and prick it frequently with a large needle to let the air escape. Boil it for three hours Avith a plate in the bottom of the pot. VEAL OR CHICKEN" CHEVREUX Garnish small moulds with carrot, peas and beet, cooked and chopped with fancy cutter; cut meat in small squares; pack in moulds and fill with warm aspic jelly. VEAL LOAE One and one-half pounds raw veal, one-quarter pound raw or cooked bacon, or ham. Mince thoroughly. Season with pepper and very little salt, as the bacon or ham salts it. A little nutmeg, savory or other herbs; one-half cup of breadcrumbs. Add two eggs well beaten, keeping out MEATS 83 enough to brush over the top (the outside) at the last; two tablespoons good stock; mix thoroughly and press into a square pan to shape it. Turn out and brush over with the beaten egg. Bake one and one-half hours in a slow oven, basting occasionally with a teaspoonful of butter melted in one-half cup of water; serve with brown gravy thickened slightly. ASPIC JEILY 1 qt. good stock. 20 peppercorns. Whites and shells of 2 eggs. 10 cloves. 1 cup lean raw beef. 2 stalks celery. 1 oz. gelatine. 1 teaspoonful salt. 1 tablespoonful vinegar. ^ saltspoonful ground mace. 2 tablespoonfuls sherry. Sprig of parsley. Mix the beef and eggs thoroughly together and add to the stock before it gets hot. When hot add gelatine (previously soaked in cold water), boil for about five minutes, strain and add vinegar, sherry, twenty peppercorns, ten cloves, two or three stalks of celery, one teaspoon salt, one-half saltspoon of ground mace, sprig of parsley. VEAL PATTY (OR BEEF) 3 lbs. raw leg of veal chopped 3 tablespoonfuls cream, very fine. Butter size of egg. 1 tablespoonful of salt. Pepper. 8 tablespoonfuls of rolled crackers. Mould into a loaf; put into pan with a little water; sprinkle with cracker crumbs and small bits of butter on the top. An egg may be added. Bake two hours and eat cold. 84 MEATS FORCEMEAT FOR VEAL, TURKEYS, FOWLS, HARE 1 liver. 1 teaspoonful minced sweet 2 oz. ham or bacon. herbs. 1 lb. suet. Salt, cayenne and mace to Eind of ^ lemon. taste. 2 eggs. 6 oz. breadcrumbs. 1 teaspoonful minced parsley. Shred the ham or bacon and liver, chop the suet, lemon peel and herbs very tine. Add the seasoning to taste, salt, cayenne and mace, and blend all thoroughly together with the breadcrumbs before wetting. Then beat and strain the eggs, work them up with the other ingredients and the force- meat will be ready for use. STEWED RABBIT 1 rabbit. A few forcemeat balls. 2 large onions. 1 large tablespoonful mush- 6 cloves. room catsup. 1 teaspoonful of chopped Thickening of butter and lemon peel. flour. Cut the rabbit into small joints, put them into a stew- pan, add the onions sliced, and the cloves and minced lemon peel. Pour in sufficient water to cover the meat and when the rabbit is nearly done drop in a few forcemeat balls, to which has been added the liver finely chopped. Thicken the gravy with flour and butter, put in the catsup, give one boil and serve. Time, rather more than one-half hour. MEATS 85 STEWED OX-TAILS 2 ox-tails. 1 onion. 3 cloves. 1 blade mace I teaspoonful whole black pepper. ^ teaspoonful allspice. ^ teaspoonful salt. Small bunch of savory herbs. 1 tablespoonful lemon juice. 1 tablespoonful mushroom catsup. Thickening of butter and flour. Mode: Divide the tails at the joints, wash, and put them into a stew-pan with sufficient water to cover, and set them on the fire ; when the water boils remove the scum, and add the onions cut into rings, the spice, seasoning and herbs. Cover the stew-pan closely, and simmer gently until tender, which will be in about two and one-half hours. Take the tails out, make a thickening of butter and flour; add it to the gravy, and let it boil for one-quarter of an hour. Strain it through a sieve into a saucepan; put back the tails, add the lemon juice and catsup; let the whole just boil up, and serve. Serve with croutons or sippets of toasted bread. BLANaUETTE OF VEAL 2 cupfuls chopped cooked 1 tablespoonful of minced veal. 1 tablespoonful of butter. 1 cupful of stock. 1 cupful of cream. Yolks of 2 eggs. parsley. 1 tablespoonful of flour. 12 button mushrooms, salt and pepper. Melt the butter, add flour, stir until smooth, add the liquid, and when the sauce thickens add meat and mush- rooms. Cook all together for a few minutes. "When ready to serve add yolks of eggs and parsley, cooking for a minute ; garnish with whole mushrooms. 86 MEATS DUTCH STEW Fry together: 1| laurel leaves. ^ tablespoonful butter. 4 or 5 cloves. 2 tablespoonfuls vinegar. Then add a cupful of gravy 1 teaspoonful sugar. or bouillon and a beaten ^ teaspoonful salt. egg. A little onion. When hot add squares of cooked meat. A great improve- ment is a little red wine, about two tablespoons, in which case a little more sugar is needed. This is a recipe brought over from Holland. PATE DE VEAU 3^ lbs. beef or veal chopped 1 teaspoonful salt and pep- fine, per. 3 slices salt pork chopped 1 nutmeg. fine. A piece of butter size of but- 3 raw eggs. ternut. 6 crackers rolled fine. Mix all with flour into a deep loaf, sprinkle with bread crumbs and small pieces of butter; bake two hours in meat- pan with a little water. Baste while baking. TIMBALE BATTEE 1 cup flour, measured after 1 egg. sifting. ^ teaspoonful salt, f cup of milk. Add salt to flour, stir in milk by degrees, and egg beaten light, yolk and white together; strain and fry on timbale iron. Fill with creamed lobsters, sweet breads, chicken, salmon, or other mixture. MEATS 87 SWEETBREADS FOR TIMBALES 2 pairs sweetbreads. 1| tablespoonfuls flour. 1 can mushrooms. 1 small onion. 1 cup milk. 1 blade mace. 1| tablespoonfuls butter. Salt and cayenne. Boil sweetbreads twenty minutes in salted water, throw in cold water to harden, free from skin and cut in dice, cut mushrooms in dice, put onion and mace in milk till flavored, then take out, melt butter, add flour, then the milk, let boil a minute, then add sweetbreads and mushrooms. HAM AND VEAL PIE 1-|- or 2 lbs. veal. Seasoning of salt, pepper, 3 or 4 slices lean cooked ham. blade of mace, a little nut- Yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs, meg, and a strip of lemon sliced. peel minced. 1 pt. made gravy. A layer of good forcemeat. Method — Stew the veal very slowly for about half an hour, cut into small square pieces about two inches long; place at the bottom of the dish; season; a layer of ham, a layer of forcemeat; put the slices of egg on the top of the veal; fill the dish thus, the top layer being ham. Put in half of the gravy and cover with puff paste with good centre ornament of leaves. Bake from one and a half to two hours. Pour in the remainder of the gravy through a funnel. Before baking the crust should be brushed over with yolk of egg. Forcemeat — Two ounces of lean ham or bacon, six ounces breadcrumbs, four ounces of beef suet, two eggs, a strip of lemon rind, minced; half teaspoonful of minced parsley, quarter teaspoonful mixed herbs, pepper, salt and mace. Chop well and mix before adding eggs. 88 MEATS ROAST SHOULDER OF LAMB Cook as you would the leg, but with more water in the pan and more slowly. When nearly done, baste plentifully with the gravy, and, five minutes later, with butter into which a little lemon-juice has been beaten. Brown lightly, after dredging with salt, pepper, and flour. Your object should be to make every part of the shoulder eatable, the muscles soft, and the skin gelatinous. As usually served, the thin part of the roast is often hard and distasteful, more like burnt leather than meat. You can vary the dish by having the bone of the shoulder taken out, filling the cavity with a dressing of breadcrumbs and butter, seasoned with pepper and salt. BRAISED BREAST OF LAMB Lay a breast of lamb, or two scrags, in a broad pot, meat downward. Scatter over this a sliced turnip, a sliced onion, and two sliced tomatoes, with a little pepper and salt. Add less than a cupful of stock, and cook slowly one hour. Turn the meat then and cook one hour longer, very slowly. When tender, but not ragged, brown, rub with butter and keep hot. Strain the gravy; thicken with browned flour; season, boil up, and pour over the meat. STUFFED LEG OF MUTTON Have the bone removed, tearing as little as possible. Fill the cavity with a dressing of a cupful of breadcrumbs worked up with butter, two tablespoonfuls of finely minced almonds, pepper, salt, parsley, and a little onion-juice. Sew or tie up the gash, that the stuffing may not escape. Have ready in your roaster a carrot cut into dice, a sliced tomato, a small onion, minced, a stalk of celery, and a little parsley. Lay the mutton upon them, pour over it two cupfuls of boiling water, cover closely and cook two hours, basting four MEATS 89 times, Eemove the cover, brown, after basting once with butter and sprinkling with pepper, salt, and flour. Kub the gravy through the colander, thicken with browned flour and send to table in a boat. Mashed or stewed young turnips are a good accompanying vegetable. LAMB OR MUTTON CHOPS Trim off the skin and fat and scrape the bone bare for an inch and a half or two inches from the end, making as it were a handle for the edible part of the chop. Flatten with the potato-beetle or the broad side of a hatchet, and broil quickly upon a greased gridiron, turning several times. Pepper and salt and send in upon a hot dish, the chops overlapping one another neatly. Or, you may ring the chops about a mound of green peas or mashed potatoes, circling all with parsley or nasturtiums. A showy dish of chops is made by twisting frills of fringed white paper about the bare bone left at the end of each. BREADED CHOPS Trim and flatten, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dip in egg and then in cracker-dust, and fry to a fine brown in deep boiling fat. Drain and serve dry and hot. STUFFED MUTTON CHOPS Make a white roux of a tablespoonful of butter and the same of flour. When it has thickened well, stir in a scant half-cupful of stock; mix thoroughly until it bubbles; add half a cupful of chopped almonds, or, if you prefer, mush- rooms, and season to taste. Boil up once and let it get cold and stiff. The chops should be tender, juicy, and cut twice as thick as for ordinary uses. Split each horizontally clear to the bone, leaving that to hold it together, and fill the slit 90 MEATS with the cold paste. Close the sides upon it and quilt a wooden toothpick through the edges to hold them together, and broil slowly over clear coals, turning often for ten min- utes. Withdraw the skewers, and dish upon a bed of green peas. ROAST LEG OF IAMB Put into the covered roaster, dash a cupful of boiling water over it, cover and cook about fifteen minutes to the pound. Twenty minutes before taking it up, take off the cover, rub all over with butter, dredge with pepper, salt, and flour, and brown. Serve with mint sauce. Green peas are always the nicest accompanying vegetable with mutton and lamb. Asparagus is the next choice. BOILED MTJTTOH Plunge the meat into a kettle of salted water that is boiling hard; lift it for fifteen minutes to the side of the range. After this cook slowly fifteen minutes to the pound. Half an hour before you are ready to serve it, drop in a minced carrot, a turnip, a small onion — both sliced — a stick of celery and a little parsley, also a sprig of mint, and let all cook together. Take up the meat, wash over with butter and keep covered and hot. Strain out enough of the liquor to serve as a foundation for a white sauce, and set away the rest for soup stock. Set the reserved liquor in cold water to throw up the fat, skim, and thicken with a white roux; stir in a great spoonful of capers and serve in a boat. Lamb should never be boiled. STEWED LAMB AND GEEEN PEAS Buy three pounds of the coarser parts of the lamb ; cut into inch lengths and dredge with flour. Have ready in a sauce- MEATS 91 pan two tablespoonfuls of good dripping, and when it hisses put in half a sliced onion, and fry to a light brown. Skim out the onion and put in the meat, cooking for five minutes and turning often to keep it from sticking to the bottom of the pan. Then add a cupful of boiling water, or weak stock, cover closely and cook gently for one hour. Add then a generous cupful of green peas. Canned will do, but the fresh are better. Stew for twenty minutes longer, or until the peas are tender, add a tablespoonful of brown roux, boil up once, and pour upon slices of toast that have been soaked in hot tomato sauce. A cheap and a savory dish. IRISH STEW Cut three pounds of mutton, w'hieh must be lean, into pieces of uniform size, and not more than an inch square. Heat two tablespoonfuls of butter or beef dripping in a saucepan, browTi a large sliced onion in it and put in the meat. Turn it over and over until coated with the fat, and slightly browned, add enough cold water to cover the meat an inch deep, put on a tightly fitting top, and stew two hours, or until the meat is very tender. Have ready in another vessel four potatoes, sliced thin, a carrot cut into dice, a tomato cut into bits, a stalk of celery minced, and a table- spoonful of chopped parsley. Cook fifteen minutes, drain off and throw away the water, put the parboiled vegetables into the stew and season to taste. Cook very gently half an hour longer, take up meat and vegetables with a perforated spoon and arrange upon a flat dish, the meat in the centre, the vegetables on the outside. Cover and keep hot. Add to the gravy in the saucepan a cupful of canned or fresh peas boiled tender ("left-overs" will do), with half a cupful of hot milk in which has been stirred a teaspoonful of corn- starch, cook five minutes and pour over the meat and vege- tables. 92 MEATS amSHEOOM CHOPS 1 doz. French chops. Salt and pepper. 3 cepes (large mushrooms). Cracker dust. 1 egg. beaten. Fat for frying. Flatten and trim the chops, divide each eepe into four strips, make a hole "with the point of a knife in the thickest part of each chop and thrust through it a slice of the mush- room. Pepper and salt, dip in raw beaten egg, coat with cracker-crumbs and set in a cold place for one hour. Fry them in deep fat to a fine brown. hu:ntees* beef Take a round of beef, bone and bind tight; if large rub into it a quarter of a pound of saltpetre, powdered: let it stand a day: then season it with half a pound of common salt, one ounce of black pepper, half a pound of brown sugar and an ounce of allspice ; a little cayenne is an improvement ; let it remain in the pickle a fortnight, turning it every day, (and about three times a week add a small quantity of com- mon saltl then wash off the salt and spice and put in a granite or tin dishpan deep enough to cover the beef entirely ; lay some beef suet at the bottom and a great deal at the top ; put in a pint of water and cover it with a thick crust, seven or eight hours will bake it; when it comes out of the oven I>our off the gravy; do not cut it till cold; it will keep good three months. BOILED HAK (YrRGDTLA STYIE) For a twelve-pound ham, take a cup of molasses, one cup of Tinegar and a few pieces of stick cinnamon, and stir these ingredients into the water in which the ham is to be boHed- Then put in the ham and boil slowly three hours. Leave the MEATS 93 ham in the water until it is lukewarm. Then take it out and skin. Cover with breadcrumbs and put in a pan in the oven, \s-ith one cup of \-inegar. and bake one hour. JELLIED VEAL Cover with water and cook a shank of veal slowly untU the meat comes easily from the bones. Season with salt and pepper. Meanwhile hard -boil two eggs; chill in cold water. Moisten a mould, cut the eggs in slices and lay in the bottom. Take out the bones and gristle and pour the remainder on the eggs. Put in a cool place, or on ice, and it will jelly quickly. UVEE AND inJSHKOOMS ^ lb. of calf's liver. 3 oz. bacon. 1 lb, mushrooms. 1 oz. flour. Fry the liver and bacon and the mushrooms separately. Put all into a stew-pan with half a pint of stock and simmer for one hour and serve with fried bread. STEWED KIDNEYS, WITH WINE Slice the kidneys, after they have been soaked in cold water; wipe dry and roll in flour. Have ready in a sauce- pan a little butter in which has been fried a slice of onion. Lay in the kidneys; roll them over and over, coating them with the butter, for two minutes — no more — and pour in a cupful of boiling water or heated stock. Simmer not longer than ten or twelve minutes. Take them up and lay upon a hot dish ; add to the gravy a tablespoonf ul of catsup, a dash of paprica or cayenne, and salt, a small tablespoanful of butter that has been rolled in browned flour, and when it has boiled up, a generous glass of sherry or claret. Pour over the kidnevs and serve. 94 MEATS DEVILED KIDNEYS Slice and take out hard centres and fat. Have ready, beaten to a cream, a tablespoonful of butter, an even tea- spoonful of mustard, a pinch of paprica or cayenne, a little salt, and a teaspoonful of lemon juice. Melt, without really heating the mixture; coat each slice with it, roll in cracker- dust, and broil, turning often. They should be done in eight minutes. Put a few drops of the deviled sauce upon each, and send to table. KIDNDYS WITH BACON Split lamb kidneys in half and fasten open with tooth- picks. Cook in a frying-pan thin slices of fat breakfast bacon until clear, but not crisped. Take up and keep hot while you cook the kidneys in the bacon-fat, turning them frequently. Six minutes should make them tender. Long cooking toughens them. Arrange upon thin slices of toast a dish, garnish with the bacon, add a teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce to the gravy and pour over the kid- neys. TOASTED IQDNEYS Cut each one of three kidneys into three pieces, and lay upon a very hot tin plate in front of a hot fire, where a clear glow will fall upon them. Have ready thin slices of fat bacon, hold each slice upon a fork close to the red grate so that the gravy will drip upon a slice of kidney below. Hav- ing toasted all the bacon, lay it upon a second hot plate, tak- ing up the first and draining off every drop of gravy over the bacon. Now toast the kidneys over the bacon. When no more juice drips from each kidney it is done. Lay each in turn upon a slice of toast, in a hot dish, garnish with the pork, sprinkle with pepper and pour the gravy over the kidneys. Serve hot. MEATS 95 STUFFED E3DNEYS Split the kidneys lengthwise, leaving enough meat and skin on one side to serve as a hinge. Rub well inside with melted butter, and broil them, back downward, over a bright fire for eight minutes. Have ready a stuffing of bread crumbs, cooked salt pork, parsley and butter, seasoned with pepper, salt, and onion- juice. Heat in a double boiler, stir in the juice of a half a lemon, fill the kidneys with the mix- ture, run a toothpick through the outer edges or lips to keep in the stuffing, pepper them and serve with sauce piquante. BOSTON PORK AND BEANS Soak the beans over night in cold water, changing this in the morning for warm, an hour later for hot. Put over the fire half an hour afterwards, in boiling salted water, and cook until tender, but not broken. Drain them then, and put into a deep dish or bean-pot, bury a piece of pork (par- boiled) in the centre. Stir into a large cupful of boiling water half a teaspoonful of dry mustard, half as much ex- tract of celery or celery salt, and a tablespoonful of molasses, and pour this over the pork and beans. Cover closely, set in the oven and bake slowly from four to six hours accord- ing to size of the pot. This is the best recipe for the prepara- tion of an ancient and honorable dish. In olden times the bean-pot stood all of Saturday night in the brick oven, and was in mellow prime at breakfast time on the Sabbath day. Serv-e Boston brown bread with it always. The two are indissolubly wedded. ROAST PORK The leg, the loin, the shoulder, and the chine are usually roasted, and the method is the same with each. The skin is scored in squares, or in parallel lines, the knife just cutting through to the flesh. Put into the roaster, dash a cup of boiling water over it ; heat gradually until the fat begins to 96 MEATS run, when quicken the fire. Baste often and abundantly, that the skin may be tender, even when crisp. Allow at least twenty minutes to the pound. The old-fashioned Vir- ginia cook — and there was none better in her day — rubbed well into the deep lines made by the knife in the rind a force-meat of crumbs, sage and onions, seasoned with pepper, salt, a little grated lemon-peel, and the juice of a lemon. This was done before the meat went into the oven and the cracks were well filled. Serve apple sauce with roast pork, or Chili sauce, or catsup, or a good bread sauce. Sharp condiments go well with it and arouse the digestive organs to their work. PORK CHOPS r Cut off the skin, trim neatly and dip in beaten egg, ihen in cracker-crumbs seasoned with salt, pepper, powdered sage, and finely minced onion. Set in a cold place for an hour or more and fry in hot fat, turning often, for at least twenty minutes. Send in dry and hot, and serve with apple sauce. PORK STEAKS AND TENDERLOINS Broil over a clear fire, turning every two minutes for twenty or twenty-five minutes. Lay upon a hot dish and dust with pepper and salt and powdered sage. Sprinkle with onion-juice and with lemon-juice, and drop bits of but- ter here and there. Cover closely over hot water for ten minutes before sending to table. SPARE RIBS Cook pork spare ribs exactly as you would pork steaks, also pork cutlets. MEATS 97 POKK POT-PIE 2 lbs. of pork. Pepper, salt. 2 slices peeled lemon. A little chopped parsley and 4 potatoes. celery. 1 tablespoonful catsup. 1 tablespoonful butter. Cut pork into pieces an inch long and half an inch wide ; cover with cold water, put in slices of peeled lemon, chopped parsley and minced celery, and stew slowly half an hour. Add potatoes, sliced very thin and parboiled for ten minutes in another vessel, and catsup. Season with pepper and salt and dredge in a tablespoonful of flour. Cover closely and cook until the meat is ready to drop to pieces. Stir in a tablespoonful of butter, rolled in flour, boil up and put the pork into a covered deep dish, leaving the gravy in the saucepan. Have ready some strips of biscuit-dough, two inches long and half an inch wide, drop them into the boiling gravy and cook ten minutes. Lay half of them across the meat in one direction, the rest in another, making squares all over it; pour in the gravy gently and send to table; or you can cut the biscuit-dough round with a cake-cutter and bake these rounds in the oven by the time the pork-stew is done. Put meat and gravy upon a deep platter and cover with the hot biscuits laid closely together. They are more wholesome than boiled dough. YORKSHIRE PORK-PIE Chop lean pork somewhat coarsely ; butter a pudding-dish and line with a good paste ; put in the pork interspersed with minced onion and hard-boiled eggs, cut into bits and sprinkle with pepper, salt, and powdered sage. Now and then dust with flour and drop in a bit of butter. When all the meat is in, dredge with flour and stick small pieces of butter quite thickly all over it. Cover with puff-paste, cut a slit in the 98 MEATS middle of the crust and bake half an hour for each pound of meat. "When it begins to brown, wash the crust with the white of an egg. It will give a fine gloss to it as well as preserve the juices. ENTREE (BAVARIAN STYLE) f lb. beef collops. 1 small onion, i lb. sausage. Salt and pepper. 1 egS- Form into croquettes. Have some half-boiled leaves of cabbage, wrap each croquette in one large leaf, completely covering the meat, tie firmly and fry slowly in lard and butter (half and half) until brown on both sides. Serve on a flat platter wath gravy poured over, which may be in- creased by addition of a little boiling water. HAMBURG STEAK (AS MADE IN HAMBURG) Procure some thin slices of beef from a round (uncooked). Pound a little to tender. Divide into portions the size of your hand. On each portion strew a little thyme, or savory, a little pepper, a dust of salt and some pounded onions. Have a portion of veal kidney suet and form the bits of beef into rolls with a bit of kidney suet in the inside. Tie with twine, or if possible darn little silver skewers into the flap of each steak to keep rolled. Dust in flour and place in a frjdng-pan with some butter or nice dripping; roll the steak so that each side may get brown. Then carefully pour in a cupful of boiling water, cover the frying-pan tight and set on some part of range where the steaks may cook very slowly. Turn out in ten minutes or longer on a very hot dish and pour gravy over them. A little more gravy may be supplied by browning some flour after lifting the steaks and thinning with boiling water. MEATS OD BOILED HAM The best ham to select is one weighing from eight to ten pounds. Take one that is not too fat, to save waste. Soak all night ; wash it carefully before you put it on to boil, re- moving rust or mould with a small, stiff scrubbing-brush. Lay it in a large boiler and pour over it enough cold water to cover it. To this add a bay-leaf, half a dozen cloves, a couple of blades of mace, a teaspoonful of sugar, and, if you can get it, a good handful of fresh, sweet hay. Let the water heat very gradually, not reaching the boil under two hours. It should never boil hard, but simmer gently until the ham has cooked fifteen minutes to every pound. It must cool in the liquor, and the skin should not be removed until the meat is entirely cold, taking care not to break or tear the fat. Brush over the ham with beaten egg, strew it thickly with very fine bread crumbs, or fine cracker-dust, and brown in a quick oven. Arrange a frill of paper around the bone of the shank, and surround the meat with watercress, or garnish the dish with parsley. STUITED HAM Soak the ham over night and scrub well in the morning, tun a narrow sharp knife along the bone, loosening the i>\eat for the whole length; shake and pull the bone while doing this until you can withdraw it. Then dig out the flat bone from the butt-end of the ham. With a fair degree of patience the process is not difficult. Fill the cavity left by the bones with a stuffing of breadcrumbs, seasoned with pepper, butter, onion, and Worcestershire sauce. Pack it in well and sew the ham tightly into shape in mosquito-netting. Cover with cold water in which have been stirred two table- spoonfuls of vinegar, and cook twenty minutes to the pound after the boil begins. Leave the ham in the water until it is lukewarm, take it out and put to press under an inverted 100 MEATS dish with a heavy weight on top. Leave it thus for eight or ten hours ; take off the cloth, and then the skin. Dot the top with black pepper, or Hungarian sweet red pepper (paprica), using the tip of the middle finger to make the impressions. If you can arrange the dots in a pattern the effect will be pleasing. Send to table surrounded by a garland of aspara- gus tops and nasturtium flowers, or parsley and marigolds. This is a delightful preparation of ham, suitable for luncheon or Sunday evening suppers. BAKED HAM Soak, wash, and parboil the ham, twelve minutes to the pound. Skin as soon as you can handle it, and staunch the flow of juices by rubbing flour into it. Put into a good oven ; slice an onion, mince a carrot and a fresh tomato, and lay about the meat, pour in half a cupful of hot water to prevent burning, cover closely, and bake twelve minutes to the pound. During this time baste the ham four times with Madeira or sherry or other pale wine, using two glasses in all, and four times with the pan-gravy. Have ready some browned cracker-crumbs and sift them thickly over the ham when done. Leave it iu the oven until firm and evenly colored. If the ham is eaten hot, make a sauce by rubbing the gravy through a colander and thickening it with browned flour. If cold, put aside the pan-liquor for sauce for some other dish. It is too good to be wasted. Champagne sauce is an excellent accompaniment to baked ham. CORNED BEEF HASH Chop fine cold boiled corned beef; to one pint meat add one pint and a little more of cold boiled potatoes, chopped, though not too fine ; a little onion can be used if liked ; have ready a pan with a good piece of butter in it, put in hash, MEATS 101 season with pepper and salt, then add rich milk or cream, enough to moisten. Cover and make hot. BEEF LOAF Three pounds of beefsteak, chopped fine; fifteen soda biscuits (well rolled), half a cupful of sweet milk, half a cupful of butter, one teaspoonful of salt and pepper, two eggs. Mix well in a loaf and bake two hours. RIS LE VEAU A CAS STJPREME Steep the sweetbreads in water for an hour ; then blanch them, and press between two dishes. When cold, cut away any sinews or fat, and place them in a stew-pan with a little onion, celery, and stock of white sauce. Braise for twenty or thirty minutes, then take out of saucepan and put into the oven to brown, and baste with its own liquor. Serve on fried bread, sauce around with truffles and mushrooms or peas. TO GLAZE A HAM OR TONGUE Put one ounce of glaze and one tablespoonful of boiling water into saucepan over fire till melted, and brush it over ham or tongue; two coats if not dark enough. Beat one quartei of a pound of butter to a cream. Put into icing tubes and ornament with it. DEVILED KIDNEYS Cut the kidneys in thin round slices, cover them with cold water; let stand half an hour, then wash them clean and put in stew-pan with one quart of water or stock, a clove, four teaspoonfuls of onion-juice, salt and pepper. Simmer two hours or longer if not tender. Set away, and for breakfast put one tablespoonful of butter in frying-pan ; 102 MEATS when hot add one tablespoonful of flour. Stir till brown and smooth. GALANTINE OF VEAL 5 lbs. breast of veal. Salt, pepper and nutmeg. 1 lb. sausage meat. Glaze: — A few walnuts. J oz. gelatine, A little cooked ham or tongue, 1 cup stock. ^ lb, grated breadcrumbs, A drop of carmine. Bones taken from the veal. Mix with the sausage meat the breadcrumbs, nutmeg, salt, and pepper. Put half in the veal, then some ham cut in long strips, then walnuts, then more sausage meat, then ham and walnuts. Tuck the veal over it and sew up. Tie up in a cloth very firmly at ends and stitch cloth at top. Put into boiling water and boil for two and a half hours. After it is boiled put be- tween two boards to press. Glaze for Galantine. — Half ounce gelatine, one cup of stock, a drop of carmine. Brush the veal over with this glaze two or three times. VEAL PATTY 3 lbs. of veal or beef chop- 1 teaspoonful of pepper. ped fine. 1 tablespoonful of salt. 5 tablespoonfuls of cracker- -J cup milk or cream. crumbs. 2 eggs, beaten. 1 tablespoonful of melted butter. ]\Iix, form into a loaf and cover with cracker-crumbs ; put in the oven, with a little water in the pan for two hours. Baste occasionally. MEATS 103 SWEETBREADS BREADED WITH TOMATO SAUCE 4 eggs. Breadcrumbs. 1 tablespoonful flour. Lard for frying. A little salt and pepper. Prepare a batter of eggs, flour, and pepper and salt, beat well together, turn the sweetbreads in this batter until they are all covered with it, turning them afterwards in cracker dust or dry breadcrumbs ; fry in hot boiling lard to a fine light brown color. Serve with tomato sauce. MAYOimAISE OF SWEETBREADS (To be served cold.) Boil a pair of sweetbreads (after blanching) for a few minutes in some good veal stock, then put them to get cold and cut into small round pieces; they must then be placed in a stewpan with pepper, salt, mace and a very small piece of garlic, and a half a pint or a little more of the stock they were first cooked in, and a quarter of an ounce of leaf gelatine ; and then it should simmer very steadily for fifteen minutes or so. The pieces should then be placed separately in a shallow dish, and the gravy in which they have been simmered should be poured over them. When they have set quite firmly they should be covered thickly with a mayon- naise. When quite cold, ornament according to taste : such as aspic or savory jelly, with beet-root, hard-boiled egg, cut into fancy shapes and placed over the dish; a little green sets the dish off well. 104 MEATS WRITTEN RECIPES MEATS 105 WRITTEN RECIPES 106 MEATS WRITTEN RECIPES MEATS 107 WRITTEN RECIPES POULTRY AND GAME In choosing poultry, select those that are fresh and fat, and the surest way to determine whether they are young, is to try the skin under the leg or wing. If it is easily broken, it is young; or, turn the wing backwards; if the joint yields readily it is tender. When poultry is young the skin is thin and tender, the legs smooth, the feet moist and limber, and the eyes full and bright. The body should be thick and the breast fat. Old turkeys have long hairs, and the flesh is purplish where it shows under the skin on the legs and back. About March they deteriorate in quality. Young ducks and geese are plump, with light, semi-trans- parent fat, soft breast bone, tender flesh, leg-joints which wdll break by the weight of the bird, fresh-colored and brittle beaks, and wind-pipes that break when pressed between the thumb and forefinger. They are best in fall and winter. Young pigeons have light red flesh upon the breast, and full, fresh-colored legs ; when the legs are thin and the breast very dark the birds are old. Fine game birds are always heavy for their size ; the flesh of the breast is firm and plump, and the skin clear; and if a few feathers be plucked from the inside of the leg and around the vent, the flesh of freshly-killed birds will be fat and fresh-colored ; if it is dark and discolored, the game has been hung a long time. The wings of good ducks, geese, pheasants, and woodcock are tender to the touch ; the tips of the long wing feathers of partridges are pointed in young birds and round in old ones. Quail, snipe and small birds should have full, tender breasts. Poultry should never be cooked until six or eight hours after it has been killed, but 108 POULTRY AKD GAME 109 it should be picked and drawn as soon as possible. Plunge it in a pot of scalding hot water ; then pluck off the feathers, taking care not to tear the skin ; when it is picked clean, roll up a piece of white paper, set fire to it, and singe off all the hairs. Fowls, and also various kinds of game, when bought at our city markets, require a more thorough cleansing than those sold in country places, where as a general thing the meat is wholly dressed. In large cities they lay for some length of time with the intestines undrawn, until the flavor of them diffuses itself all through the meat, rendering it distasteful. In this case, it is safe after taking out the in- testines, to rinse out in several waters, and in next to the last water, add a teaspoouf ul of baking soda ; say to a quart of water. This process neutralizes all sourness, and helps to destroy all unpleasant taste in the meat. Poultry may be baked so that its wings and legs are soft and tender, by being placed in a deep roasting pan with close cover, thereby retaining the aroma and essences by absorption w^iile confined. These pans are a recent innova- tion, and are made double with a small opening in the top for giving vent to the accumulation of steam and gases when required. Roast meats of any kind can also be cooked in the same manner, and it is a great improvement on the old plan. ROAST TURKEY Select a young turkey; remove all the feathers carefully, singe it over a burning newspaper on the top of the stove; then "draw" it nicely, being very careful not to break any of the internal organs ; remove the crop carefully ; cut off the neck close to the body. Now rinse the inside of the turkey out with several waters, and in the next to the last, mix a teaspoonful of baking soda ; oftentimes the inside of a fowl is very sour, especially if it is not freshly killed. Now, after washing, wipe the turkey dry, inside and out, with a no POULTRY AND GAME clean cloth, rub the inside with some salt, then stuff the breast and body with "Dressing for Fowls." Then sew up the turkey with a strong thread, tie the legs and wings to the body, rub it over with a little soft butter, sprinkle over some salt and pepper, dredge with a little flour ; place it in a dripping pan, pour in a cup of boiling water, and set it in the oven. Baste the turkey often, turning it round occa- sionally so that every part will be uniformly baked. When pierced with a fork and the liquid runs out perfectly clear, the bird is done. If any part is likely to scorch, pin over it a piece of buttered white paper. A fifteen-pound turkey re- quii'es between three and four hours to bake. Serve with cranberry sauce. Gravy for Turkey. — When you put the turkey in to roast put the neck, heart, liver and gizzard into a stew-pan with a pint of water; boil until they become quite tender; take them out of the water, chop the heart and gizzard, mash the liver and throw away the neck; return the chopped heart, gizzard and liver to the liquor in which they were stewed ; set to one side, and when the turkey is done it should be added to the gravy that dripped from the turkey, having first poured off the fat from the surface of the dripping- pan; set it all over the fire, boil three minutes and thicken with flour. It will not need brown flour to color the gravy. The garnishes for turkey or chicken are fried oysters, rashers of bacon, slices of lemon, fried sausages, force-meat balls, also parsley. BOILED TURKEY Prepare as you would for baking or roasting ; fill with an oyster stuffing, made as the above. Tie the legs and wings close to the body, place in salted boiling water with the breast downward ; skim it off and boil about two hours, but not till the skin breaks. Serve with oyster or celery sauce. Boil a nicely pickled piece of salt pork, and serve at table a thin POULTRY AND GAME 111 slice to each plate. Some prefer bacon or ham instead of pork. Some roll the turkey in a cloth dipped in flour. If the liquor is to be used afterwards for soup, the cloth im- parts an unpleasant flavor. The liquid can be saved and made into a nice soup for the next day's dinner, by adding the same seasonings as for chicken soup and rice, barley, or macaroni. SCALLOPED TURKEY Pick the meat from the bones of cold turkey, and chop it fine. Put a layer of bread crumbs on the bottom of a but- tered dish, moisten them with a little milk, then put in a layer of turkey with some of the stuffing, and cut small pieces of butter over the top ; sprinkle with pepper and salt; then another layer of bread crumbs, and so until the dish is nearly full; add a little hot water to the gravy left from the turkey and pour over it; then take two eggs, two tablespoonfuls of milk, one of melted butter, a little salt and cracker crumbs as much as will make it thick enough to spread on with a knife ; put bits of butter over it, and cover with a plate. Bake three-quarters of an hour. Ten min- utes before serving, remove the plate and let it brown. TTJRKEY HASHED Cut the remnants of turkey from a previous dinner into pieces of equal size. Boil the bones in a quart of water, until the quart is reduced to a pint ; then take out the bones, and to the liquor in which they were boiled add turkey gravy, or white stock, or a small piece of butter with salt and pepper ; let the liquor thus prepared boil up once ; then put in the pieces of turkey, dredge in a little flour, give it one boil-up, and serve in a hot dish. TURKEY WARMED OVER Pieces of cold turkey or chicken may be warmed up with a little butter in a frying-pan; place it on a warm platter, 112 POULTRY AND GAME surround it with small thick slices of bread or biscuit halved, first dipping them in hot salted water; then place the platter in a warm oven with the door open. Have already made the following gravy to pour over all. Into the frying-pan put a large spoonful of butter, one or two cupfuls of milk, and any gravy that may be left over. Bring it to a boil; then add sufficient flour, wet in a little cold milk or water, to make it the consistency of cream. Season with salt, pepper and add a little of the dark meat chopped very fine. Let the sauce cook a few moments ; then pour over the biscuit and fowl. This will be found a really nice dish. BOITED TURKEY Clean the fowl as usual. With a sharp and pointed knife, begin at the extremity of the wing, and pass the knife down close to the bone, cutting off the flesh from the bone, and preserving the skin whole; run the knife down each side of the breast bone and up the legs, keeping close to the bone; then split the back half way up, and draw out the bones ; fill the places whence the bones were taken with a stuffing, re- storing the fowl to its natural form, and sew up all the inci- sions made in the skin. Lard with two or three rows of slips of fat bacon on the top, basting often with salt and water, and a little butter. Some like a glass of port wine in the gravy. This is a difficult dish to attempt by any but skillful hands. Carve across in slices, and serve with tomato sauce. BLANQUETTE OF TURKEY 1 qt. cooked turkey cut in 1 teaspoonful lemon juice, small pieces. 1 cupful milk or cream. 1 large cup stock. Yolks of four eggs. 3 tablespoonfuls of butter. Salt and pepper. 1 heaping tablespoonful of flour. POULTRY AND GAME 113 Put the butter in the sauce-pan and when hot add the flour; stir until smooth, but not brown; add the stock, and cook two minutes; then add the seasoning and cream. As soon as this boils up add the turkey ; cook ten minutes. Beat the yolks of the eggs with four tablespoonfuls of milk; stir into the blanquette; cook about half a minute longer. This can be served in a rice or potato border, DRESSING OR STUFFING FOR FOWLS For an eight or ten-pound turkey, cut the brown crust from slices or pieces of stale bread until you have as much as the inside of a pound loaf; put it into a suitable dish, and pour tepid water (not warm, for that makes it heavy) over it; let it stand one minute, as it soaks very quickly. Now take up a handful at a time and squeeze it hard and dry with both hands, placing it as you go along, in another dish ; this process makes it very light. "When all is pressed dry, toss it all up lightly through your fingers ; now add pepper, salt, — about a teaspoonful — also a teaspoonful of powdered summer savory, the same amount of sage, or the green herb minced fine; add a little melted butter, and a beaten egg. Work thoroughly all together, and it is ready for dressing either fowls, fish or meats. A little chopped sausage and the finest possible paring of lemon-peel in turkey dressing is an improvement, when well incorporated with the other ingredients. OYSTER DRESSING OR STUFFING This is made with the same ingredients as the above, with the exception of half a can of oysters drained, and slightly chopped and added to the rest. This is used mostly with boiled turkey and chicken, and the remainder of the can of oysters used to make an oyster sauce to be poured over the turkey when served, and also served in a separate dish. These recipes were obtained from an old colored cook, who 114 POULTRY AND GAME was famous for his fine dressings for fowls, fish and meats, and his advice was, always soak stale bread in cold liquid, either milk or water, when used for stuffing or puddings, as they were much lighter. Hot liquid makes them heavy. ROASTED BONED CHICKEN Spread the boned chicken on a board, the skin side down ; turn the flesh of the legs and wings right side out, and stuff them with force-meat into shape. Equalize the meat as well as possible, placing the mignon fillets, or little strips of white meat, next the bone, over the dark meat, etc. ; dredge with salt and pepper. Make a roll of the stuffing or force-meat and lay it in the chicken. Draw the skin up, and sew it to- gether securely. Turn it over, place the legs and wings into the position of a trussed fowl, press the body into nat- ural shape, and tie it securelj^ ; or it may be pressed into the form of a duck or rabbit. Cover with slices of salt pork and roast in oven, allowing twenty minutes to the pound; baste frequently. Remove the pork the last fifteen minutes, dredge with flour and let it brown. Serve with giblet or tomato sauce. BRAISED BONED CHICKEN To braise the chicken prepared as above, roll it lightly in a piece of cheesecloth, tying the ends well. Put in a sauce- pan the bones of the chicken, a slice of carrot and onion, a bouquet containing parsley, one bay leaf, three cloves, twelve peppercorns, celery if convenient, and a knuckle of veal. Add enough water to cover the bed of vegetables and bones ; lay in the chicken ; cover the pot, and let it simmer for four hours. JELLIED BONED CHICKEN A braised boned chicken may be served hot, or it may be set aside to cool, then jellied as follows: Strain the water in which the chicken was braised, and let it cool; then remove POULTRY AND GAME 115 the grease and clarify the liquor; season it highly. If veal has been used, and the liquor jellies, it may be used as it is. If veal has not been used, add gelatine soaked in cold water, observing the proportion of one box of gelatine to one and a half quarts of liquor. Mask a mould with jelly; Avhen the jelly is set, put in the chicken, and add enough liquid jelly to entirely cover it. Or, on the bottom of the mould, make a decoration of either truffles, ham, capers, gherkins, or any combination suitable; fix it with a thin layer of jelly; when hardened, add enough more to make a layer of jelly one- quarter of an inch thick, and when that is hardened lay in the chicken, and surround it with the liquid jelly. Garnish the dish on which the jellied chicken is served with lettuce, and serve with it a Mayonnaise, Bearnaise, or Tartare sauce. When the chicken is to be jellied, use enough water in the braising pot to give three pints of liquor after the cooking is done. FORCE-MEAT EOR STUFFING BONED FOWLS Use the meat of another fowl, or veal, or pork, or a mix- ture. Chop them fine, and add to the minced meat one cup- ful of bread or cracker crumbs, and, if convenient, a little chopped boiled ham or tongue, and a few lardoons of pork. Season with the following articles, and moisten the whole with stock : One tablespoonful of chopped parsley, one tea- spoonful of onion-juice, one-quarter teaspoonful of pepper, one teaspoonful thyme, one teaspoonful of salt. If veal is used, take it from the knuckle, and use the bone in the brais- ing pot, as it will give a good jelly. TO TRUSS A FOWL When the fowl is wiped, singed, and drawn, put in the stuffing ; place a little in the opening at the neck, the rest in the body, and sew up the opening. Draw the sldn of the neck smoothly down and under the back, press the wings 116 POULTRY AND GAME close against the body, and fold the pinions under, crossing the back and holding down the skin of the neck. Press the legs close to the body, and slip them under the skin as much as possible. Thread the trussing needle with white twine, using it double. Press the needle through the wing by the middle joint, pass it through the skin of the neck and back, and out again at the middle joint of the other wing. Return the needle through the bend of the leg at the second joint, through the body and out at the same point on the other side ; draw the cord tight, and tie it with the end at the wing joint. Thread the needle again, and run it through the legs and body at the thigh bone, and back at the ends of the drum- sticks. Draw the drumstick bones close together, covering the opening made for drawing the fowl, and tie the ends. Have both knots on the same side of the fowl. When cooked, cut the cord on the opposite side, and by the knots it can easily be drawn out. ROASTED CHICKEN A roasted chicken may be stuffed or not. If stuffing is used it should only half fill the chicken. Truss it as directed above, or use skewers, doubling the cord across the back and around the ends of the skewers to hold them in place. A roasted or boiled chicken is not presentable, which has not been securely fastened into good shape before being cooked. Dredge the chicken with salt and pepper, and place it on slices of salt pork in a baking-pan ; add a very little water, and bake in hot oven, allowing fifteen minutes to the pound ; baste frequently. "White meat must be well cooked, but not dried. Fifteen minutes before it is done, rub it over the top and sides with butter, dredge it with flour, and replace it in the oven until it becomes a golden brown and looks crisp. Draw out the trussing cords, and garnish with parsley. Serve with it a giblet sauce. Do not use a tough chicken for POULTRY AND GAME 117 roasting ; one a year old is about right. A roasting chicken may be larded if desired. STUFFING FOR FOWLS Moisten a cupful of breadcrumbs with a tablespoonful of melted butter; season highly with salt, pepper, thyme, chopped parsley, and onion-juice; or put in a saucepan a tablespoonful of butter and fry in it one minced onion; then add one cupful of soaked bread, the water being pressed out, one-half cupful of stock, one teaspoonful of salt, one-half teaspoonful each of pepper and thyme, and one-half cupful of celery cut into small pieces. Stir it until it leaves the sides of the pan. CHESTNUT STUFFING Shell a quart of large French chestnuts. Put them in hot water and boil until the skins are softened; then drain off the water and remove the skins. Replace the blanched chest- nuts in Avater, and boil until soft. Take out a few at a time, and press them through a colander or a potato press. They mash more easily when hot. Season the mashed chestnuts with a tablespoonful of butter, a teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter of a teaspoonful of pepper. Some cooks add a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, and moisten it with a little stock. Some add, also, a few breadcrumbs. The dressing is best seasoned only with butter, salt, and pepper. GIBLET SAUCE Boil the giblets until tender ; chop them, but not very fine ; add a tablespoonful of flour to the pan in which the chicken was roasted; let it brown, stirring constantly; add slowly a cupful of water in which the giblets were boiled ; season with salt and pepper ; strain and add the chopped giblets ; serve in a sauceboat. The liver is a tidbit, and should be roasted and served with the chicken, instead of being used in the sauce. 118 POULTRY AND GAME BOILED CHICKEN A chicken too old to roast is very good when boiled. Truss the chicken firmly. It is well also to tie it in a piece of cheesecloth, to keep it in good shape. It may be stuffed or not. Boiled rice seasoned with butter, pepper and salt, or celery cut in small pieces, is better to use for boiled chicken than bread stuffing. Put the chicken into boiling salted water and simmer, allowing twenty minutes to the pound; when done, remove the cloth and cords carefully, spread a little white sauce over the breast, and sprinkle it with chopped parsley. Garnish with parsley, and serve with it egg, oyster, or Bearnaise sauce. BRAISED CHICKEN A fowl too old to roast may be made tender and good by braising, and present the same appearance as a roasted chicken. Prepare it as for roasting, trussing it into good shape. Cut into dice a carrot, turnip, onion, and stalk of celery ; put them in a pot with a few slices of salt pork, and on them place the fowl, with a few pieces of salt pork laid over the breast ; add a bouquet of parsley, one bay-leaf, three cloves, six peppercorns, also a teaspoonful of salt, and a pint of hot water. Cover the pot closely and let simmer for three hours. If any steam escapes, a little more water may have to be added. When done, rub a little butter over the breast, dredge with flour, and place in the oven a few minutes to brown. Strain the liquor from the braising pot, season to taste, and if necessary thicken with a little butter and flour browned ; serve it with the chicken as sauce. BROILED CHICKEN Young spring chickens only are used for broiling. Split them down the back, remove the entrails and the breast bone, wipe them clean, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and rub them POULTRY AND GAME 119 with soft butter. Place them on a broiler over a slow fire, the inside down; cover with a pan, and let cook for twenty minutes to twenty-five minutes. Turn, to let the skin side brown when nearly done. Place them on a hot dish, and spread them with maitre d 'hotel butter ; garnish with parsley or watercress and thin slices of lemon. CHICKEN FRICASSEE Cut a chicken into eleven pieces; two drumsticks, two second joints, two wings, two breasts, three back pieces. Put the pieces in a saucepan with two tablespoonfuls of butter or drippings ; let them brown slightly on both sides, but use care that they do not burn ; when a little colored, add enough boiling water to cover them ; add a bouquet of herbs, salt and pepper, and a few slices of salt pork. Simmer until tender. Arrange the pieces neatly on a dish, using the best ones out- side, and pour over them a gravy made as follows: Strain the liquor from the pot and take off the fat. Make a white sauce of one tablespoonful of butter and two of flour and a cupful of the liquor from the pot; season to taste; remove from the fire, and when a little cool add a cupful of cream or milk beaten up with two or three yolks of eggs. Place again on the fire until the eggs are a little thickened, but do not let it boil, or they will curdle. A tablespoonful of sherry may be added, if liked, or a half can of mushrooms. A bor- der of rice may be placed around the chicken, or sippets of toast used. To make a brown fricassee, sprinkle the pieces of chicken, after they are simmered until tender, with salt, pepper, and flour, and place them in the oven to brown. Make a brown instead of a white sauce, and omit the cream or milk. CHICKEN SAUTE, A LA WEBB Secure a nice plump young chicken, clean and cut into pieces, not too small; flour them and saute in good butter 120 POULTRY AND GAME until of a nice golden brown color; mince half clove of garlic very fine, also quarter pod green peppers and cook in butter for five minutes. Mix sufficient flour to absorb butter, and moisten with half a pint of strong chicken broth ; stew with a few carrots and turnips cut into small diamond shapes until tender; season with salt, and serve on platter with Saratoga chip border sprinkled with French peas. FRIED CHICKEN Cut a tender chicken in pieces; dip the pieces in water; sprinkle them with salt and pepper, and roll them in flour; saute them in a tablespoonful of lard or butter, browning both sides ; then remove and add to the " mi a tables2:)Oonf ul of flour; cook it for a minute without browning, stirring all the time, and add a cupful of milk or cream ; stir until it is a little thickened; strain; mix into it a tablespoonful of chopped parsley. Place the sauce on the serving-dish and arrange the pieces of chicken on it. STUFFED CHICKEN OR TURKEY LEGS Carefully remove the tendons and bone from the drum- sticks, all but about an inch and a half at the small end. Stuff the leg with a force-meat made of chicken or veal chopped very fine, and use with it the liver and a little strip of larding pork; season it with salt, pepper, and chopped parsley, and moisten it with one egg. Drav/ the skin over the end and sew it closely together, keeping the shape as nat- ural as possible. Lay the stuffed legs in a baking-pan ; cover with boiling water, and simmer an hour, or until tender ; re- move them from the water, press them into shape, and let cool. When cold, take out the stitches, dredge with salt and pepper, roll in beaten egg and breadcrumbs, and fry in hot fat until browned ; or broil them on both sides four minutes, if chicken; six minutes, if turkey legs; or they may be POULTRY AND GAME 121 sauted in butter. They may be deviled by rubbing them with mustard and a little red pepper before coating with the eggs and crumbs. Serve them arranged like chops, the bones masked with paper frills. If preferred, the bones may be entirely removed, and the leg flattened to look like a cutlet. This can be done by placing them under a weight to cool after being boiled. Serve with an olive, Bearnaise, Tartare, or any sauce preferred. GRILLED CHICKEN BONES Take the wings, second joints, and drumsticks of cold cooked chicken; dip them in melted butter, sprinkle them with salt and pepper, and broil them until they are very hot and well browned. BROILED CHICKEN ON TOAST Broil the usual way, and when thoroughly done take it up in a square tin or dripping pan, butter it well, season with pepper and salt, and set in the oven a few minutes, lay slices of moistened toast on a platter, take the chicken up over it, add to the gravy in the pan part of a cupful of cream, if you have it; if not, use milk. Thicken with a little flour and pour over the chicken. This is considered most excellent. CURRIED CHICKEN Cut up a chicken weighing from a pound and a half to two pounds, as for fricassee, wash it well, and put it in a stewpan with sufficient water to cover it ; boil it closely cov- ered, until tender ; add a large teaspoonful of salt, and cook a few minutes longer; then remove from the fire, take out the chicken, pour the liquor into a bowl, and set it one side. Now cut up into the stewpan two small onions, and fry them with a piece of butter as large as an egg ; as soon as the onions 122 POULTRY AND GAME are brown, skim them out and put in the chicken; fry for three or four minutes ; next sprinkle over two teaspoonf uls of curry powder. Now pour over the liquor in which the chicken was stewed, stir all well together, and stew for five minutes longer, then stir into this a tablespoonful of sifted flour made thin with a little water ; lastly, stir in a beaten yolk of egg, and it is done. Serve with hot boiled rice laid round on the edge of a platter, and the chicken curry in the centre. This makes a handsome side dish, and a fine relish accompanying a full dinner of roast beef or any roast. All first-class grocers and druggists keep ''India Curry Powder," put up in bottles. Beef, veal, mutton, duck, pi- geons, partridges, rabbits or fresh fish may be substituted for the chicken, if preferred, and sent to the table with or without a dish of rice. To Boil Rice for Curry. — Pick over the rice, a cupful. Wash it thoroughly in two or three cold waters; then leave it about twenty minutes in cold water. Put into a stewpan two quarts of water with a teaspoonful of salt in it, and when it boils, sprinkle in the rice. Boil it briskly for twenty minutes, keeping the pan covered. Take it from the fire, and drain off the Avater. Afterwards set the saucepan on the back of the stove, wath the lid off, to allow the rice to dry and the grains to separate. Rice, if properly boiled, should be soft and white, and every grain stand alone. Serve it hot in a separate dish or laid round the chicken curry. CHICKEN POT-PIE Cut and joint a large chicken, cover with cold water, and let it boil gently until tender. Season with salt and pepper, and thicken the gravy with two tablespoonfuls of flour, mixed smooth with a piece of butter the size of an egg. Have ready nice light bread-dough ; cut with the top of a wineglass about half an inch thick ; let them stand half an hour and rise, then POULTRY AND GAME 123 drop these into the boiling gravy. Put the cover on the pot closely, wrap a cloth around it, in order that no steam shall escape ; and bj^ no means allow the pot to cease boiling. Boil three-quarters of an hour. CHICKEN POT-PIE This style of pot-pie was made more in our grandmother's day than now, as most cooks consider that cooking crust so long destroys its spongy lightness, and renders it too hard and dry. Take a pair of fine fowls ; cut them up, wash the pieces, and season with pepper only. Make a light biscuit dough, and plenty of it, as it is alwaj^s much liked by the eaters of pot-pie. Roll out the dough not very thin, and cut most of it into long squares. Butter the sides of a pot, and line them with dough nearly to the top. Lay slices of cold ham at the bottom of the pot, and then the pieces of fowl, interspersed all through with squares of dough and potatoes, pared and quartered. Pour in a quart of water. Cover the whole with a lid of dough, having a slit in the centre, through which the gravy will bubble up. Boil it steadily for two hours. Half an hour before you take it up, put in through the hole in the centre of the crust some bits of butter rolled in flour, to thicken the gravy. When done, put the pie on a large dish, and pour the gravy over it. You may intersperse it all through with cold ham. A pot-pie may be made of ducks, rabbits, squirrels, or venison. Also of beef-steak. A beef-steak, or some pork- steaks (the lean only), greatly improve a chicken pot-pie. If you use no ham, season with salt. CHICKEN STEWED, WITH BISCUIT Take chickens, and make a fricassee; just before you are ready to dish it up, have ready two baking-tins of rich soda 124 POULTRY AND GAME or baking-powder biscuits ; take them from the oven hot, split them apart by breaking them with your hands, lay them on a large meat platter, covering it, then pour the hot chicken stew over all. Send to the table hot. This is a much better way than boiling this kind of biscuit in the stew, as you are more sure of its being always light. SMOTHERED CHICKEN (A Southern Method.) Dress young chickens, w^ash, and let them stand in w^ater half an hour to make them white. Put into a baking pan (first cutting them open at the back). Sprinkle salt and pepper over them, and put a lump of butter here and there ; then cover tightly wuth another pan the same size and bake one hour J baste often with butter. A delicious dish. MARYLAND CHICKEN Take two tender spring chickens, split in half, detach the legs and wings; lay all on a plate, and season with salt and pepper. Dip the pieces in beaten egg, and afterwards in bread crumbs. Place them in a buttered pan, pour an ounce of clarified butter over, and roast in the oven about twenty minutes. Pour half a pint of cream sauce on a serving dish, and arrange the fowl on it; alternate with slices of thin boiled bacon, and small corn fritters. CHICKEN CROaUETTES 1 chicken. 1 tablespoonful of chopped 1 tablespoonful butter. parsley. 2 tablespoonfuls flour. Pepper, salt and a dash of ^ pt. milk. cayenne. ' A little grated nutmeg. J ♦ k POULTRY AND GAME 125 Boil chicken, remove skin and chop fine. When the sauce is cooked add the chopped chicken. Mix well, then set aside to cool. When cool mould into shape ; dip in egg and bread- crumbs and boil in hot fat. This quantity will make thirteen croquettes. CHICKEN CROaUETTES 1 solid pt, chopped chicken. 4 eggs. 1 tablespoonful salt. 1 teaspoonful of onion juice. •| teaspoonful pepper. 1 tablespoonful lemon juice. 1 cup cream or chicken stock. 1 pt. bread-crumbs. 1 tablespoonful flour. 3 tablespoonfuls butter. Put the cream or stock on to boil. Mix the flour and but- ter together and stir into the boiling cream, then add the chicken and seasoning; boil for two minutes, and add two of the eggs well beaten ; take from the fire immediately and set away to cool; when cool, shape, roll in egg and crumbs and fry. Many persons think a teaspoonful of chopped parsley an improvement. CHICKEN CROaUETTES 2 cups finely chopped chicken. 1 tablespoonful butter. 1 cup chicken stock. 1 tablespoonful flour. ^ cup cream or milk. A little mace, nutmeg, pepper, 2 eggs. and salt. Mix the butter and flour together, and when the milk and stock have come to a boil add them to the butter and flour. Add the meat, and let all simmer together ten minutes, then add eggs pretty well beaten. Leave on the back of stove for a few minutes, but do not allow it to simmer. Pour in a dish to cool. When quite cool form into small rolls and roll in bread-crumbs, then in egg, and again in bread-crumbs, Cook in boiling lard. 126 POULTRY AND GAME CREAMED CHICKEN One chicken of four pounds, or two of six pounds; four sweetbreads, one can of mushrooms. Boil chicken and sweet- breads and when cold cut up as for salad. In a sauce-pan put four coffee-cups or one quart of cream. In another sauce-pan put four large tablespoonfuls of butter and five even tablespoonfuls of flour. Stir until melted, then pour in the hot cream and stir until it thickens. Flavor with the small half of a grated onion and a very little nutmeg ; season highly with black and red pepper. Put the chicken and cream in a bakin^^-dish ; add the mushrooms cut in pieces (if large), and cover with grated bread; put a number of pieces of butter on the top and bake ten or twenty minutes. CHICKEN JELLY Cut chicken into joints and put into a pan or stew-jar. Put in a very little salt and a peppercorn, and just cover with water ; let it stew gently for two or three hours or more, adding a little water if required. When the meat falls from the bones take off the meat and pound up the bones, and give them an extra boil. Strain the liquid from the meat (and bones) and w^hen cold take off any fat. It becomes a jelly, and can be eaten cold or warmed up. CELERIED CHICKEN (ENTREE) 2 cups cold cooked chicken, 2 tablespoonfuls chopped minced. parsley. 1 cup milk. 1 teaspoonful salt. 1 tablespoonful butter. 4 dashes pepper. 1 heaping tablespoonful 3 slices of toast, cut length- flour. wise. 1 teaspoonful celery salt. » ► Put butter and flour in saucepan, stir till butter is melted and smooth, add milk, salt and pepper, stir till it comes to POULTRY AXD GAME 127 a boil, add parsley and celery salt, which have been mixed with a little of the butter mixture, add chicken. Arrange toast in strips (log-cabin style) ; place the chicken in centre and serve. FONDTJ OF CHICKEN 1 cupful minced chicken 1 tablespoonful of butter. (turkey or veal). 1 slice cold boiled ham, 1 cup breadcrumbs. minced. 1 cup of boiling milk. 2 eggs beaten. ^ onion boiled in the milk Pinch of soda. and strained out. Pepper and salt. Soak the crumbs in the milk, stir in the butter and beat very light. Let the mixture cool while you mince the meat and beat the eggs. Stir in the meat when the bread and milk are nearly cold; season, lastly adding the eggs. Beat well up. Put it into a well-greased baking dish; set in a brisk oven. When the fondu is a light delicate brown puff send at once to the table in the same dish in which it has been baked. SAVORY DUCK (To be served cold. A luncheon or supper dish.) Bone the duck by cutting it open down the back, take out the back bone, the breast and then the leg bones. Put the bones, one pound of shin of beef, one onion, two cloves, one bay-leaf, some thyme and parsley, one carrot, a small piece of turnip, pepper and salt into a saucepan with three pints of stock or water. Chop one-half pound of veal with an onion, a little grated nutmeg, pepper, salt and one-half pound of green peas. Fill the duck with this and sew it up. Stew it with the bones for two hours. Take out the duck and strain the gravy. Put it in another pan and mix in one ounce of gelatine and the whites of two eggs. Beat it over the fire until it boils, then let it boil for ten minutes, 128 POULTRY AND GAIlIE without stirring, with the lid on; it will then be clear when again skimmed. Cover the bottom of a dish (large enough to hold the duck) with cooked peas, carrots and turnip. Put a small cupful of the gravy, and let it get cool, then put in the duck (breast downwards) ; let the gravy be nearly cold, then pour it over the duck, which will then set in a firm jelly, and can be turned out on to another dish. EOAST DUCK Clean with care, and, after washing well, rinse out with soda and water. Lay in cold water for half an hour ; wipe dry and stuff with bread-crumbs, seasoned with butter, pep- per, salt, a half teaspoonful of onion-juice, and just a pinch of powdered sage. Dredge with salt, pepper, and flour ; dash a cupful of boiling water over them and roast, covered, twelve minutes to the pound, if you like them rather rare ; fifteen, if you would liave them well done. Baste four times, the last time with butter, after which dredge with flour and brown. Chop the giblets for the gravy, and thicken with browned flour. Green peas should accompany ducks. BRAISED DUCK Proceed as with braised goose, omitting the apple from the "bed" and adding onion and sage very sparingly. STEWED DUCK Ducks which are no longer in the first flush of youth may be treated satisfactorily in this way. Joint as for fricassee ; pepper, salt, and flour them. Heat good dripping in a fry- ing-pan and fry a sliced onion to a light brown. Take out the onion, put in the duck, and cook ten minutes, turning two or three times. Put into a sauce-pan a cupful of stock POULTRY AKB GAME 129 or consomme, and while it is still cold lay in the jointed duck. Cover and stew slowly until tender, season with pepper and salt, a tablespoonful of tomato catsup, and a dash of lemon-juice. Simmer three minutes, stir in a table- spoonful of brown roux, cook a minute to thicken it, add a glass of sherry, and serve. SALMI OF DUCK Cut up the meat of a roasted or braised duck into neat dice, the bones, stuffing, and skin into small pieces. Cover the meat-dice with a marinade of salad oil and lemon- juice, and leave in a cold place while you prepare the gravy or sauce. Cover the bones, etc., well with cold water, add parsley, pepper, and salt, and simmer, after this reaches the boil, for two hours. Strain, thicken the gravy with browned flour rubbed up with a spoonful of butter ; add the juice of half an onion, boil up and put in the meat. Draw to the side of the range and let it almost, but not quite, boil. Take out the meat and arrange neatly upon a flat dish. Add to the gravy half a can of champignons (or, if you can get them, fresh mushrooms are far better). Simmer three min- utes and pour over the meat. Garnish with sippets of fried bread. ROAST DUCKLING Whip three tablespoonfuls of mashed potatoes to a white cream with butter and a tablespoonful of cream. Season with celery salt and white pepper, add three tablespoonfuls of almonds, blanched and chopped very fine. "With this mixture stuff your young ducks when you have cleaned and washed them. Do not distend the bodies, but fill without packing. Truss and bind legs and wings into position with cotton-twine. Lay the plump creatures (they must be fat and white) upon the grating of your roaster, rub the breast with a split onion, dust with pepper, salt and flour; put a 130 POULTRY AND GAME cupful of boiling water into the pan and cover. Set in a very quick oven for the first fifteen minutes. Change, then, to a more moderate, and cook, still covered, ten minutes to the pound. Uncover, baste well with gravy, then with but- ter, dredge with flour, and brown. Skim the fat from the gravy, thicken with a tablespoonful of browned flour, rubbed up with two tablespoonfuls of currant jelly, and send to table in a boat. This is one of the choicest of summer deli- cacies. EAGOUT OF DUCK AND GREEN PEAS Cook the remnants of a pair of roast ducks as directed in recipe for Salmi of Duck, and when done pile the meat in the centre of the dish ; put a quart of green peas, well boiled and drained, about them like a green fence, and pour the gravy over all. REDHEAD OR CANVASBACK DUCK (ROASTED) Singe and draw, but do not wash the ducks. Wipe them, inside and out, Avith a soft, damp cloth. Cut off the pinions and tie what is left of the wdngs to the bodies. Instead of stuffing them, pepper and salt the cavity of the body, wash out with salad oil and lemon-juice and put a teaspoonful of currant jelly, or three or four cranberries, in each. Put into your covered roaster; pour half a cupful of boiling water into the dripping-pan beneath; cover closely and cook half an hour, basting three times. Uncover, wash all over with a mixture of butter and lemon-juice, and brown. Serve with currant jelly. REDHEAD OR CANVASBACK DUCK (BROILED) Clean and wipe with a soft, damp cloth within and with- out. Split down the back and flatten the protuberant breast- bone with the broadside of a hatchet, then leave them in a POULTRY AXD GAME 131 marinade of salad oil and lemon-juice for one hour, setting them in cold place. "Without wiping them, broil over red, clear coals for twenty minutes, if they are plump and large ; less time will do for small birds. Turn them twice. Serve with currant or grape jelly, and when dishing put upon each breast a teaspoonful of butter beaten to a cream with lemon- juice and finely chopped parsley. ROAST GOOSE The goose should not be more than eight months old, and the fatter the more tender and juicy the meat. Stuff with the following mixture: Three pints of bread crumbs, six ounces of butter, or part butter and part salt pork, one tea- spoonful each of sage, black pepper and salt, one chopped onion. Do not stuff very full, and stitch openings firmly together to keep flavor in and fat out. Place in a baking pan with a little water, and baste frequently with salt and water (some add vinegar) ; turn often so that the sides and back may be nicely browned. Bake two hours or more; when done take from the pan, pour off the fat, and to the brown gravy left, add the chopped giblets which have pre- viously been stewed until tender, together with the water they were boiled in; thicken with a little flour and butter rubbed together, bring to a boil and serve. English style. ROAST PRAIRIE CHICKEN OR GROUSE Test them, after cleaning and wiping, and if they are tough, put them — trussed as for roasting — into a steamer and set over hard-boiling water for half an hour. "While still hot rub them well with butter and lemon-juice, salt and pepper, inside and out, put a small bit of fat salt pork in each and roast, covered, in a quick oven for half an hour. Baste three times with butter and hot water, and, just before 132 POULTRY AND GAME taking them up, with butter alone. They are dry birds and need mollifying. Serve with currant jelly and bread sauce. GAME PIE 2 turkey livers. 1^ cups bread-crumbs. Legs of 2 partridges. ^ teaspoonful cloves. 1^ lbs, forcemeat. ^ teaspoonful cinnamon. Chop up the livers very fine, also the meat of the par- tridge legs; add the bread-crumbs after having put them through a sifter; add pepper and salt to taste. Mix all to- gether and moisten with water. Put it in a pan and cook for half an hour, keeping it moist and turning over often. Put in a pie dish and cover with paste and bake. To be eaten cold. BROILED GROUSE (LARDED) Singe, clean, wipe well, split down the back, and lard the breasts with narrow strips of fat salt pork, d'rawn through the skin for an inch and out the other side with a larding- needle. Or if they are decidedly tough, steam for half an hour and lay until cold in a marinade of lemon-juice and oil. Pepper and salt and broil for fifteen minutes. Serve upon squares of toasted bread, or upon oblongs of fried hominy. Butter well before sending to table. SALMI OF GROUSE Cut neatly into joints a pair of underdone grouse and divide the breasts into two pieces each. Put a cupful of good stock or consomme in a saucepan, season well, add a minced onion, a chopped carrot, and a stalk of celery, with a little minced parsley, and cook slowly one hour. Rub through a colander, stir in a tablespoonful of brown roux, bring to a boil, and put in the grouse. After this it must not boil, but set it in a saucepan of boiling water just where it will keep POULTRY AND GMIE 133 at the scalding-point for half an hour. At the last put in half a cupful of mushrooms, heated in their o^vn liquor, and serve. If you have preserved the cooked giblets of the grouse, mince them fine, work them to a paste with butter, season with salt and pepper, and spread them on buttered toast upon the dish intended for the salmi before it goes in. The toast will absorb the gravy and be delicious. PERDRIX AVX CHOUX Stuff partridge with turkey dressing ; then stick on breast pieces of pork fat. Put lard down in pot and brown the partridge alone with pepper and salt. Roast well for twenty minutes in a covered pot. Then take out the partridge and put in the pot four onions stuck with cloves, one small cab- bage cut in four, four slices of pork and bacon; fry brown. Put back the partridge and cover with hot water; simmer gently for an hour. Before taking off put in a tablespoonful of browned flour. EOAST aUAIL Draw and wipe carefully within and without with a soft, damp cloth. Put a whole raw oyster in the body of each, and truss as you would a chicken. Bind thin slices of fat bacon over the breast ; lay upon the grating of your roaster, put a very little hot water under them and cook, covered, in a lively oven, for twenty minutes, basting three times with butter and water. "Wash well with butter, pepper, and salt, and serve upon squares of buttered toast, wet with gravy from the roaster. BROILED aUAIL Draw, wipe, and split down the back, then leave them in a marinade of salad oil and lemon- juice for half an hour. Without wiping, broil on a wire "bird-broiler" for ten min- 134 POULTRY AND GAME utes, turning twice. Butter, salt, and pepper them, and serve on squares of buttered toast, upon each of which has been poured a teaspoonful of hot stock. HOAST PAETRIDGE Clean and truss as you would chickens. Bind thin slices of fat salt pork or bacon over the breasts and put into your roaster with half a cupful of boiling water. Pepper and salt the birds and wash over with melted butter, letting it drip into the pan below. Cook, covered, forty-five minutes, bast- ing four times wdth butter and water. Serve with a good bread sauce, but after dishing pour over the birds several spoonfuls of their own gravy from the pan. EOAST PIGEON (WILDy Unless you are sure that they are tender, stew them or put them into a pie. Draw and wash them thoroughly ; wdpe dry, salt and pepper the insides; truss and bind them into shape with cotton string; cover the breasts with thin slices of fat bacon tied in place, lay them, breasts upward, in your roaster, and pour in half a cupful of hot water or weak stock. Cook, covered, fifteen minutes ; remove the pork, rub all over with butter and lemon-juice, and brown. Keep the pigeons hot while you stir into the gravy a tablespoonful of butter cut up in one of browned flour and another of currant jelly. Boil up once and pour over the pigeons, BROILED SaiTAB Split down the back, rub all over with butter, salt and pepper them, and broil over red coals. Serve upon buttered toast wet with a little hot stock or gravy. POULTRY AXD GAME 135 BRAISED PIGEON WITH MUSHEOOIIS Drain, wash, and stuff with a force-meat of crumbs and chopped fat pork, seasoned with onion-juice, salt, and pepper. Prepare the usual bed of vegetables — minced carrot, onion, celery, and parsley. Lay the pigeons upon it ; add a cupful of stock, or of butter and water, eovei' and cook gently one hour, or until tender. Dish the birds and keep hot ; rub the gravy through a colander into a sauce-pan, season to taste, add a dozen fresh mushrooms cut into small pieces, simmer five minutes, thicken with a tablespoonful of brown roux, boil up and pour over the pigeons. PIGEOK PIE Clean, wash, and joint; wipe dry, pepper, salt, and saute them in hot dripping in which an onion has been fried. Butter a deep dish and lay in the meat alternately with layers of fat salt pork, chopped fine, hard-boiled eggs, and the gib- lets of the birds boiled and minced. Dredge flour over the pigeons as they go in. "When the dish is full pour in a cup- ful of water in which the giblets were cooked, seasoned with pepper and salt. Cover the pie with a good crust, cut a slit in the middle, and bake one hour in a moderate oven. ENGLISH JUGGED PIGEON Clean, wash, and stuff with a good force-meat of crumbs, chopped fat pork, the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs rubbed to powder, ?nd a tablespoonful of celery boiled tender and chopped. Season to taste with onion-juice, pepper, and salt. Truss the birds; tie wings and legs close to the bodies and pack in an agate-iron pail with a close top. Plunge this into boiling water deep enough to cover the pail almost to the top, but not to float it. Put a weight on the top to keep the pail from turning over as the boiling becomes hard, and cook for 136 POULTRY AND GAME three hours if the pigeons are tough. Dish the birds, thicken the gravy with browned flour, add a tablespoonful of tomato catsup, boil up and pour over the pigeons. CURRIED PIGEON Cook as above directed, dish and add to the gravy two teaspoonfuls of curry-powder. Boil one minute before pour- ing over the birds. Serve with boiled rice. Serve ice-cold bananas with this dish. WOODCOCK, SNIPE, AND OTHER SMALL BIRDS are usually broiled in the same manner as squabs. They are also nice (especially woodcock) cleaned and left whole, the head skinned, the eyes extracted, and the head twisted over the shoulder until the bill pierces the body. Bind a thin slice of fat pork or bacon closely about each bird. When all are ready lay them upon the grating of your covered roaster, pour a very little boiling water under them, cover and roast fifteen minutes. Remove the bacon, wash the birds over with butter, and brown. Boil the giblets and pound fine ; rub to a paste with butter; season to taste. Have ready squares of toast, buttered. Wet with the pan-gravy and spread with the paste, laying a bird upon each. BORDEAUX STEWED RABBIT Skin, clean, and joint. Heat a tablespoonful of butter in a sauce-pan and fry in it a sliced onion. When it is slightlj' colored put in the pieces of hare, salted, peppered, and dredged with flour, and cook five minutes, turning over and over that all parts may be seared. Cover with cold water or weak stock, add parsley, sweet marjoram, pepper, and salt, and stew gently until tender. Take up the meat with a skimmer and pile upon a dish. Add to the gravy in the POULTRY AND GAME 137 sauce-pan a great spoonful of brown roux, a teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce, and, if you like, half a cupful of chopped champignons. Boil two minutes, take from the fire, add a glass of claret, pour over the meat, cover and set in an open oven for five minutes before serving. ROAST HARE OR RABBIT "Old hare" at the South, let the age be what it may. At the North and "West it is rabbit, tame or wild. Skin and clean them. The latter process should be thorough. Good cooks are sometimes less heedful than they should be in this respect. Chop the livers fine, also a slice of fat pork, and mix with bread-crumbs. You may add a few champignons or mushrooms if you like. Season with pepper, salt, and onion-juice. Stuff the rabbits with this, sew them up, and anoint well with salad oil and lemon-juice, leaving them in this marinade for an hour. Put into the roaster, pour a cupful of weak stock, or consomme, or butter and water under them ; cover and cook for an hour. Take off the bacon, wash over with butter, and brown. Dish the hares, and keep hot, while you thicken the gravy with browned flour, boil up, add a teaspoonful of catsup and half a glass of claret, pour a few spoonfuls over the rabbits, the rest into a boat. JUGGED HARE Skin, clean, and joint a full-grown rabbit, or hare. Cut the back into two pieces and sever every joint. Fry a sliced onion to a pale brown in hot dripping, put in the meat, peppered, salted, and floured, and cook for ten minutes, fast, turning often. Put into the bottom of an agate-iron sauce- pan a layer of chopped fat salt pork, sprinkle with onion, parsley, and paprica. Upon this lay the pieces of hare and cover with another layer of chopped pork and onion. A few bits of fresh tomato would not be amiss. Pour in a cupful of 138 POULTRY AND GAME cold, weak stock in which a stalk of celery has been boiled, then remove. Fit on a tight top, set in a vessel of cold water, and bring slowly to a boil. Keep this up for three hours, or until the meat is tender. Dish the pieces of rabbit, thicken the gravy with browned flour ; add a tablespoonf ul of currant jelly and one of lemon-juice, simmer one minute, pour in a glass of sherry and turn all upon the meat. Garnish with triangles of fried hominy, serving a bit with each portion of hare. This is an English dish and good. EOAST HAUNCH OF VENISON (English Style.) To prepare a haunch of venison for roasting, wash it slightly in tepid water, and dry it thoroughly by rubbing it with a clean, soft cloth. Lay over the fat side a large sheet of thickly buttered paper, and next a paste of flour and water about three-quarters of an inch thick ; cover this again with two or three sheets of stout paper, secure the whole well with twine, and put down to roast, with a little water, in the drip- ping-pan. Let the fire be clear and strong; baste the paper immediately with butter or clarified drippings, and roast the joint from three to four hours, according to its weight and quality. Doe venison will require half an hour less time than buck venison. About twenty minutes before the joint is done remove the paste and paper, baste the meat in every part with butter, and dredge it very lightly with flour ; let it take a pale brown color, and serve hot with unflavored gravy made with a thickening, in a tureen and good currant jelly. Venison is much better when the deer has been killed in the autumn, when wild berries are plentiful, and it has had abundant opportunities to fatten upon this and other fresh food. Venison should never be roasted unless very fat. The shoulder is a roasting piece, and may be done without the paper or paste. POULTRY AND GAME 139 JELLIED VENISOIT A good sized piece of boil- A dessertspoonful ground iug venison, cinnamon.' 1 small onion. 1 wineglass good port. A little cayenne. A little gelatine if needed. A few cloves. Take a good sized boiling piece of venison, soak in salted water one-half hour, then put on to boil, onion, cayenne pepper, a few cloves, and ground cinnamon. "When done take the venison out carefull}^ so as not to break; put in mould, then take the liquor or stock, add a wineglass of good port, strain all and pour over venison; add a little gelatine if liquor is not sufficient to harden. BROILED VENISON STEAK Venison steak should be broiled over a clear fire, turning often. It requires more cooking than beef. When suffi- ciently done, season with salt and pepper, pour over two tablespoonfuls of currant jelly, melted wdth a piece of butter. Serve hot on plates. Delicious steaks, corresponding to the shape of mutton chops, are cut from the loin. BAKED SADDLE OF VENISON Wash the saddle carefully ; see that no hairs are left dried on to the outside. Use a saddle of venison of about ten pounds. Cut some salt pork in strips about two inches long, and an eighth of an inch thick, with which lard the saddle with two rows on each side. In a large dripping-pan cut two carrots, one onion, and some salt pork in thin slices; add two bay leaves, two cloves, four kernels of allspice, half a lemon, sliced, and season with salt and pepper; place the saddle of venison in the pan, with a quart of good stock, boil- 140 POULTRY AND GA^IE ing hot, and a small piece of butter, and let it boil about fifteen minutes on top of the stove ; then put it in a hot oven and bake, basting well every five minutes, until it is medium rare, so that the blood runs when cut ; serve with jelly or a wine sauce. If the venison is desired well done cook much longer, and use a cream savice with it, or stir cream into the venison gravy. In ordering the saddle request the butcher to cut the ribs off pretty close, as the only part that is of much account is the tenderloin and thick meat that lies along the backbone up to the neck. The ribs which extend from this have very little meat on them, but are always sold with the saddle. "When neatly cut off they leave the saddle in a better shape, and the ribs can be put into your stock-pot to boil for soup. VENISON PIE OR PASTRY The neck, breast and shoulder are the parts used for a venison pie or pastry. Cut the meat into pieces (fat and lean together) and put the bones and trimmings into the stew-pan with pepper and salt, and water or veal broth enough to cover it. Simmer it till you have drawn out a good gravy. Then strain it. In the meantime, make a good rich paste, and roll it rather thick. Cover the bottom and sides of a deep dish with one sheet of it, and put in your meat, having seasoned it with pepper, salt, nutmeg and mace. Pour in the gravy which you have prepared from the trimmings, and a glass of port Mdne. Lay on the top some bits of butter rolled in flour. Cover the pie with a thick lid of paste and ornament it hand- somely with leaves and flowers formed with a tin cutter. Bake two or more hours according to the size. Just before it is done, pull it forward in the oven, and brush it over with beaten egg; push it back and let it slightly brown. POULTRY AND GAME 141 SOUFFLE DE VOLAILLE 1 lb. raw chicken. 1| pts. double cream. 3 oz. butter. Pepper and salt to taste. 4 eggs. Pound meat in a mortar (or pass twice through fine mincer), add gradually three ounces butter, four yolks and two whites of eggs. Season to taste and then pass through a hair sieve; whip the remaining two whites of eggs to a stiff froth ; half whip the cream and stir these in very gently to the chicken mixture. Steam very gently in mould for three-quarters of an hour. Turn out and serve with good white sauce made with butter, flour, milk, good chicken stock and a little cream. "MY DEVIL" 1 tablespoonful of "Worces- 1 saltspoonful pepper. tershire sauce. | saltspoonful cayenne, 1 small dessertspoonful an- 1 tablespoonful of vinegar. chovy sauce. 1 teaspoonful brown sugar. 3 teaspoonfuls made mustard. One squeeze of lemon, one 1 saltspoonful of salt. glass port wine. Mix together and heat in saucepan, and pour over grilled turkey legs, or any cold meat grilled for breakfast or lunch. THE BEGUM'S CUERY Meat or chicken. Salt, cocoanut, butter, ground 1 tablespoonful curry. rice. 1 tablespoonful vinegar. Onions. ^ tablespoonful Harvey i cup gravy, sauce. Cut some meat into small dice, and put butter in frying- pan; fry the meat a nice brown. While cooking, add all ingredients, which must be previously all mixed together. 142 POULTRY AND GAME One tablespoon curry powder, one of vinegar, one-half of Harvey sauce, a little salt, the juice of a cocoanut, ground rice and butter. Then add half a cup of gravy. Stir all together. Let it cook a little while, and then turn the curry into a brown earthenware jar. Fry some onions in butter^ and add to the curry. Let the jar stand on the hob and simmer until required. TIMBALES 1 cup milk. 1 egg, well beaten. 1 cup flour. Lard for frying. Beat all together; let stand one hour. Have ready a saucepan of boiling lard. Put timbale-iron first in lard, then in batter and then in lard again for one-half minute, when the shells will fall off the iron readily. Fill with creamed chicken and garnish with parsley or cress after heating a few moments in the oven. The shells can be made the day before if desired and heated when required. GAME SAUCE 1 pk. ripe plums, 1 teaspoonful black pepper. ^ doz, white onions. 2 oz. stick cinnamon broken 1 pt. vinegar. in pieces. 4 lbs. white sugar. 1 teaspoonful salt. 1 teaspoonful cayenne. Stone the plums. Chop onions and j^lums very fine. Put the plums on to cook in a saucepan, the onions on in the vinegar. Cook until done. Then add the plums, also sugar and seasoning. It will take several hours to cook, doing slowly at the back of the stove. When cool cork tight in bottles. POULTRY AND GAME 143 CREAMED CHICKEN 2| lbs. C'liickeu, raw. 1 pt. cream. ^ Wb. cooked sweetbreads, ^ can mushrooms. 2 tablespoonfuls butter. 1-| tablespoonfuls flour. When chicken and sweet-breads have been cooked tender allow them to cool, chopping sweet-breads fine. Put butter in a saucepan; when melted add flour, and when dissolved, cream, which has been heated. When thick add seasoning and chicken. IMix all well together; pour into a baking-dish, spread bread-crumbs and butter on top and bake twenty minutes. Garnish with parsley. POTATO STUFFING FOR ROAST GOOSE Eight good-sized potatoes, boil and mash, salt and pepper to taste, four onions very finely chopped and mixed Avith hot potato. Stuff body of goose as full as possible. FOWL DRESSING Steam very stale bread according to size of fowl, add finely chopped onions and apples, raw eggs, salt, pepper and allspice to taste. Quantities : for a duck : Small bowl bread, one onion, two apples, three eggs, mixed well. 144 POULTRY AND GAilE WRITTEN RECIPES POULTRY AND GAME 145 WRITTEN RECIPES 146 POULTRY AND GAME WRITTEN EECIPES POULTRY AlsD GAME 147 WRITTEN RECIPES YEGETABLES Vegetables of all kinds should be thoroughly picked over, throwing out all decayed or unripe parts, then well washed in several waters. Most vegetables, when washed, are better when laid in cold water a short time before cooking. "When partly cooked, a little salt should be thrown into the water in which they are boiled, and they should cook steadily after they are put on, not allowed to stop boiling or simmering until they are thoroughly done. Every sort of culinary vege- table is much better when freshly gathered and cooked as soon as possible, and, when done, thoroughly drained, and served immediately while hot. Onions, cabbage, carrots and turnips should be cooked in a great deal of water, boiled only long enough to sufficiently cook them, and immediately drained. Longer boiling makes them insipid in taste, and with too little water they turn a dark color. Potatoes rank first in importance in the vegetable line, and consequently should be properly served. It requires some little intelligence to cook even so simple and common a dish as boiled potatoes. In the first place, all defective or green ones should be cast out ; a bad one will flavor a whole dish. If they are not uniform in size, they should be made so by cutting after they are peeled. The best part of a potato, or the most nutritious, is next to the skin, therefore they should be pared very thinly, if at all; then (if old, the cores should be cut out) thrown into cold water salted a little, and boiled until soft enough for a fork to pierce through easily ; drain immediately, and replace the kettle on the fire with the cover partly removed, until they are com- 148 VEGETABLES 149 pletely dried. New potatoes should be put into boiling water, and when partly done salted a little. They should be prepared just in time for cooking, by scraping off the thin outside skin. They require about twenty minutes to boil. POTATO RICE Press well-seasoned mashed potatoes through a colander or a potato press on to the centre of a dish, leaving the little flakes piled up. Serve chops or minced meat around the mound of potato. POTATO RISSOLES Take some stiff mashed potatoes. Make a stuffing with two teaspoonfuls of breadcrumbs, a chopped tomato, a little parsley or herb seasoning, and moisten with beaten egg. Shape two rounds of potato, make a little hollow in one, fill with stuffing and press the other over it, roll in egg and breadcrumbs and then fry. BAKED POTATOES Select large potatoes of uniform size and shape, wash and scrub them with a brush ; bake them in a hot oven about an hour ; press them to see if done, but do not pepper them with a fork; when soft break the skin in one place and serve at once. They become watery if kept. LYONNAISE POTATOES Put one and a half tablespoonfuls of butter in a frying pan. When melted add a scant tablespoonful of chopped onion; let it slightly color, then add two cupfuls of cold boiled pota- toes cut into dice. Stir until the potato has absorbed all the butter, and become slightly browned; then sprinkle with salt, pepper, and a tablespoonful of chopped parsley. Mix well, and serve very hot. 150 VEGETABLES FRIED POTATOES Cold boiled potatoes are sliced, then put into a saute-pan with butter, and cooked until browned on both sides. If rolled in flour they will form a crisp crust. Raw potatoes are sliced or cut into any shape, and put into cold water for half an hour. They are then well dried on a napkin, and immersed in hot fat until done. Too many must not be put in the basket at once, as it cools the fat. Fry them to an amber color; then drain, and place them on a paper in the oven until all are done. Serve them at once, as they lose their crispness if kept. FRIED POTATO BALIS AND STRAWS To make balls use a potato scoop ; press it well into the potato before turning it. To make straws cut the potato into slices lengthwise, and then into strips, making each one about one-eighth of an inch thick. Slices or strips cut with a fluted knife are good forms fo: fried potatoes. Fry the potatoes in hot fat, using a basket Fancy fried potatoes are used to garnish any broiled meat dish. There are many kinds of cutters to give different shapes to potatoes. SARATOGA POTATOES Cut the potatoes with a plane into slices as thin as paper if possible. Let them soak in cold water for a little time to wash out the starch; then put them into fresh water with a piece of ice to thoroughly chill them. Drain a few of the slices at a time, dry them on a napkin ; put them in a f rying- basket and immerse them in smoking-hot fat. Keep them separated, and remove as soon as slightly colored. Turn them into a colander to drain, and sprinkle them with salt. "When the second lot are fried turn those in the colander on 1 VEGETABLES 151 to a paper in the open oven, and so on until all are done. Saratoga potatoes should be perfectly dry and crisp. They may be used hot or cold, and will keep for some time in a dry place. If wanted hot, place them in the oven a moment before serving. PUFFED OR SOUFFLE POTATOES Peel the potatoes; cut the sides square, and trim off the corners, so as to give an oval shape. With one even cut slice them one-eighth of an inch thick the length of the po- tato ; they must be all the same size and shape. Soak them in cold water for half an hour; dry them on a napkin, and fry them in fat which is only moderately hot until they are soft, but not colored. Remove and place them on a sieve to drain and cool. Then immerse them in hot fat, when they will puff into balls. Toss the basket, and remove any that do not puff. Sprinkle w^th salt, and serve them on a napkin, or as a garnish. Holland potatoes best suit this purpose ; it is impossible to get the same result with most of the other varieties. SWEET POTATOES "Wash and scrub the potatoes; puj; them in boiling water, and cook until they can be pierced with a fork ; then pour off the water. Cover the pot with a cloth, and draw it to the side of the range to let the potatoes steam for ten minutes. Peel them before serving. BAKED SWEET POTATOES Wash and scrub the potatoes without breaking the skin. Bake until soft; then break the skin in one place, and serve at once. BROWNED SWEET POTATOES Cut cold boiled potatoes into slices one-quarter of an inch thick. Sprinkle them with salt and pepper; spread with 152 VEGETABLES butter, and sprinkle with sugar. Place them in a hot oven to brown, iSWEET POTATO PUREE Mash thoroughly the boiled potatoes, and season them well with salt, pepper, and butter ; add enough hot milk to moisten them. Serve it the same as mashed white potato ; or put it in a pudding-dish, brush the top with egg, and brown it in the oven. Serve with it a tomato sauce, and use as a luncheon dish. Either boiled or baked potatoes may be used. STEWED TOMATOES If fresh tomatoes are used remove the skins by placing them in boiling water a few minutes ; they will then peel off easily. Cut them in pieces, and stew in a granite-ware sauce- pan until tender. To one quart of tomatoes add one tea- spoonful each of salt and sugar, one-quarter teaspoonful of pepper, and a tablespoonful of butter. Thicken with a tea- spoonful of cornstarch wet in cold water, or with one-half cupful of cracker or breadcrumbs — chopped onions are relished in this dish — well cooked. SCALLOPED TOMATOES Season a can of tomatoes with one teaspoonful of salt, and one-quarter teaspoonful of pepper. Spread a shallow baking dish with a thin layer of breadcrumbs ; pour in the tomatoes, sprinkle over them a tablespoonful of sugar, and a few drops of onion juice. Cover the top with a cupful of breadcrumbs which have been moistened with a tablespoonful of melted butter. Bake in a hot oven for fifteen minutes. Serve in the same dish. VEGETABLES 153 STUFFED TOMATOES Large firm tomatoes. 1 tablespoonful chopped 1 tablespoonl'iil butter. parsley. 1 tablespoonful onion 1 cup breadcrumbs. chopped fine. 1 teaspoonful salt, f cup chopped meat. ^ teaspoonful pepper. 1 egg, if desired. Select large, firm tomatoes; do not remove the skins; cut a small slice off the stem end, and scoop out the inside. Fill them with stuffing made as follows: Put butter in a sauce- pan ; when hot add onion chopped fine. Let it color slightly ; then add meat, chicken, or livers, parsley, breadcrumbs, the pulp taken from the tomatoes, salt, pepper, egg. Stir it over the fire until it is consistent. Dust the inside of the tomatoes with salt and pepper, and fill them, letting the stuffing rise half an inch above the tomato, and place a piece of butter on it. The above amount of stuffing is enough for eight toma- toes. Cut slices of bread one-half inch thick into circles the size of the tomato ; dip them quickly in water, and place in a baking-pan. Place a tomato on each piece of bread, and bake in oven about fifteen minutes, or until the stuffing is browned. A brown sauce may be served with this dish. The meat may be omitted from the stuffing if desired. If con- venient it is better to use oil instead of butter with tomatoes. ROASTED TOMATOES Peel the tomatoes; cut a piece off the top, and remove a little of the pulp. Put a piece of butter or a few drops of oil in each one ; dust with salt and pepper, replace the top, sprinkle it with crumbs, pepper, and salt. Put a small piece of butter or a little oil on each one, and place on a slice of bread. Bake in oven fifteen to twenty minutes. 154 VEGETABLES BROILED TOMATOES Cut the tomatoes horizontally in two; leave the skins on. Place them on a broiler with the skin side down; dust with salt and pepper, and broil without turning, over a moderate fire, fifteen to twenty minutes, or until tender. Lay them on a hot dish, and spread each piece with either butter, oil, maitre d 'hotel sauce, hot Mayonnaise or Bearnaise, or the tomatoes may be cut into thick slices, covered with oil, and then broiled, turning frequently. TOMATO PILAFF Cook together one cup of stewed and strained tomato, one minced onion, one cup stock or gravy, with seasoning of salt and pepper. When boiling add one cupful of rice and toss lightly until the liquor is absorbed. Melt one-half cupful of butter, pour over the rice and set on back of stove to steam. After about twenty minutes remove the cover, shake well, that the kernels may be distinct, and cover with a towel until ready to serve. TOMATOES AND CHEESE One tin of tomatoes, one cup of grated cheese, dash of cayenne pepper and salt in cheese, lump of butter on top, four or five soda biscuits crumbed. Bake in a pudding-dish in oven. STEWED TOMATOES Pour boiling water upon tomatoes to loosen their skins, and peel them. Slice, or cut into dice, and cook in a porce- lain or agate-iron saucepan for twenty minutes. Drain off the superfluous liquid, pepper and salt it, and keep for sauces, stews, and soups. Stir into the hot tomatoes, for each quart, a tablespoonful of butter rolled in corn-starch or in fine cracker-dust, a teaspoonful each of salt and pepper, and half VEGETABLES 18S a teaspoonful of grated onion. Cook three minutes longer and serve. TOMATOES ATI GRATIlSr 1 qt. tomatoes. 2 tablespoonfuls melted but- 1 cup breadcrumbs. ter. 1 small onion chopped, Cayenne and salt, 1 teaspoonful sugar. Cut a piece from the top of each tomato. Scoop out the inside, leaving a hollow shell. Chop the pulp fine, mix with the crumbs, butter, sugar, pepper, salt, and onion. Fill the cavities of the tomatoes with this stuffing, heaping and round- ing each; scatter fine crumbs on the top, and arrange in a bake-dish. Set the dish, covered, in an oven, and bake half an hour before uncovering, after which brown lightly, and send to table on a hot platter. BROILED TOMATOES WITH SAUCE 6 fine tomatoes, pared and 3 tablespoonfuls vinegar. sliced thick. 2 raw eggs, beaten light. 3 hard-boiled eggs (yolks 1 teaspoonful sugar. mashed), f teaspoonful each of made 3 tablespoonfuls melted mustard and salt. butter. A pinch of cayenne. Rub butter, pounded yolks, pepper, salt, mustard, and sugar together. Beat hard, add vinegar, and heat to a boil. Put this gradually upon the beaten eggs and whip to a smooth cream. Set in hot water while you broil the tomatoes in an oyster-broiler over clear coals. Lay this upon a hot-water dish and pour the scalding dressing upon them. You may substitute a simpler sauce for this dressing, such as maitre d 'hotel sauce, or one made by beating two tea- spoonfuls of lemon juice in three tablespoonfuls of butter, and seasoning this with a little mustard or cayenne. 150 VEGETABLES TOMATOES ON TOAST Wash and slice in half -inch rounds good firm tomatoes; place a layer of tomatoes on slices of bread half -inch thick; sprinkle with pepper and salt, and on each round of tomato put a small piece of butter. Bake in shallow meat-pan in rather quick oven until bread turns golden brown. Serve at once. SCALLOPED TOMATOES Butter a bake-dish and cover the bottom with fine, dry crumbs. Next put a layer of sliced and peeled tomatoes; season with pepper, salt, sugar, butter, and a few drops of onion-juice. More crumbs and more tomatoes until the dish is full. The top layer should be crumbs, peppered, salted, and buttered. Bake half an hour, covered. Uncover and brown. If canned tomatoes are used, drain off half the juice before you begin the scallop, or it will be too watery. Season the liquor and save for sauces and soups. SCALLOPED TOMATOES Large ripe tomcitoes. Breadcrumbs, sugar, salt and 2 slices fat salt pork. pepper. 1 small onion. Peel and slice tomatoes. Chop salt pork aad onion. Place a layer of tomatoes in a pudding-dish, pepper and salt lightly, sprinkle with a very little sugar and with the pork and onion. Cover with crumbs and continue using the ingredients in thiJ | order until the dish is full. Have the top layer crumbs. Bake, covered, half an hour, then uncover and brown ten minutes. Serve in the dish in which they were baked. BAKED TOMATOES Peel with a sharp knife. Cut a piece from the top and gouge out most of the pulp, leaving the walls intact. Season VEGETABLES 157 what you have removed with pepper, salt, sugar, a few drops of onion-juice, and twice as much salad oil when you have chopped the pulp rather coarsely. Put it back into the toma- toes, replace the top, sprinkle with oil, paprica, and salt, and arrange upon a baking-pan. Bake, covered, for twenty min- utes, and uncovered for five, and serve upon buttered Gra- ham-bread toast. FEIED TOMATOES IN BATTER 'A nice side-dish is made by dipping slices of ripe tomatoes into a batter made of flour, milk and an egg, and then frying them a delicate brown. FRIED TOMATOES (PLAIN) Wash and wipe, but do not peel, the tomatoes. Slice, dust each piece with paprica, salt, and sugar, sprinkle with a few drops of onion-juice ; dip in fine corn-meal, and fry in deep, hot cottolene, as j'ou would fritters. Serve dry with fish or with chops. DEVILED TOMATOES 1 qt. firm tomatoes. 2 raw eggs, beaten light. 3 hard-boiled eggs. 1 teaspoonful powdered 3 tablespoonfuls melted but- sugar. ter. 1 saltspoonful salt. 3 tablespoonfuls vinegar. Pinch of cayenne. 1 teaspoonful made mustard. Pound the boiled yolks; rub in the butter and seasoning. Beat light, add the vinegar, and heat almost to a boil. Stir in the beaten egg until the mixture begins to thicken. Set in hot water while you cut the tomatoes in slices nearly half an inch thick. Broil over a clear fire upon a wire oyster-broiler. Lay on a hot-water dish, and pour the hot sauce over them. 158 VEGETABLES EAST INDIAN HAGOUT OF TOMATOES 1 cocoanut. 1 tablespooniul grated onion. 2 cups fresh diced tomatoes. 1 teaspoonful curry. 1 large green pepper, 1 tablespoonful flour. chopped. 1 tablespoonful butter. A tiny pinch of chopped ^ teaspoonful soda, garlic. Break the shell of a cocoanut, saving the milk if it be sweet. Grate the meat when you have taken off the brown skin. Heat the milk and pour over the grated cocoanut. (If the milk be not sweet use a cupful of boiling water, slightly Bweetened with loaf-sugar.) Set aside, covered, until per- fectly cold, then strain through a muslin bag, squeezing out every drop of liquid. Peel and cut tomatoes to make two cupfuls; add green pepper, chopped, chopped garlic, grated onion, and stew gently for twenty minutes. Add the curry and draw to the side of the range, while you heat the cocoa- nut-milk and thin with it a roux of one tablespoonful of flour, stirred smooth into a larger spoonful of boiling butter. Season with salt to taste, pour all together in a deep dish, stir in soda, and serve while frothing. It will be relished by the lovers of highly seasoned sauces and stews. Eat with roast, or boiled chicken, or with fish. CREAMED ONIONS "' Peel one quart of medium-sized onions, place them in a saucepan, cover with boiling water; add one teaspoonful of sugar, and boil until nearly done ; add one teaspoonful salt ; boil a few minutes longer, then drain in a colander. Melt two tablespoonfuls of butter, add half a tablespoonful of flour. Stir and cook two minutes ; add one cupful of hot milk and cook two minutes longer, and season with whole pepper and salt. Put the onions in a hot dish and pour the sauce over them. VEGETABLES 159 BAKED ONIONS 'A Norwegian Eecipe. Cook tender in two waters — the second salted and boiling. Drain well, pressing each onion in a coarse cloth, gently, not to break it, and when they are dry, lay all together, side by side, in a bake-pan. Pepper, salt, and butter, and add a cupful of stock. Brown in a quick oven ; take out the onions and keep them hot in a deep dish while you thicken the gravy left in the pan with browned flour. Pour over th© onions, set in the oven for two minutes, and serve. BERMUDA ONIONS (STUFFED) Peel large Bermuda or Spanish onions, and parboil them for ten minutes. Drain, and let them get perfectly cold. With a sharp knife dig out the centre from each and fill with a force-meat of minced meat, veal, ham, or chicken, well sea- soned, and mixed with one-third as much fine crumbs. Sea- son with salt and cayenne and a little butter. Set the stuffed onions close together in a dish, fill the interstices with crumbs, and scatter more over the top. Pour about them enough weak stock to keep them from burning — about an inch in the bottom of the dish will do — and cook, covered, half an hour. Uncover and brown lightly. Onion-lovers will find this very palatable. ONION SOUFFLE 1 cup white sauce. 1 teaspoonful white pepper. i cup breadcrumbs. Yolks of 3 eggs, whites beaten 1 cup cooked onions dry. (chopped). ^ teaspoonful salt. § cup milk. Soak the crumbs in cold milk, add white sauce, onions, yolks, pepper, salt, and last beaten whites. Turn into but- tered mould and bake forty-five minutes. 160 VEGETABLES ONION FRITTEES Slice onion across and then pull apart. Then make a batter — the whites of two eggs, half cup milk ; put in slowly two heaping tablespoonfuls of flour and a little salt; mix in onion thoroughly and fry in boiling lard; dry on brown paper. RICE CROQUETTES Put three-quarters of a cup of milk in a sauce-pan over the fire with a generous tablespoonful of butter, a heaping tea- spoonful of sugar, and, when it comes to a boil, add a cup and a half of boiled rice, a saltspoonful of powdered cinna- mon or nutmeg, and salt to taste. Mix well, let it come to a boil. Add a beaten egg, remove from the fire, turn into a plate to get cold, form into cylinders and fry in hot butter. BOILED RICE Have a large saucepan three parts full of water, let the water boil very fast, drop the rice in through the fingers, stirring with a fork ; keep it boiling very fast for ten minutes, stirring all the time. Put it into a wire sieve and let cold water run through for three minutes, put back into a dry sauce-pan; separate the grains with a fork; stand it on the stove to dry, stirring occasionally. Do not cover rice while drying. TO BOIL RICE (Chinese Beeipe in Native's Own Words.) Wash him well, much wash in cold water, the rice water make him stick, wash all quite away. Water boil in sauce- pan all ready, very fast; throw rice in, can't burn water shake him so much. Boil quarter of an hour or little more. Rub rice in finger and thumb, if soft him well done. Put rice in colander, hot water go away ; pour cup of cold water ii VEGETABLES 161 on him ; put back rice in saucepan, keep him covered up near fire; then rice all done, eat him up. BAKED RICE CURRY (An East Indian Dish.) Wash a cupful of raw rice in three waters, and let it soak fifteen minutes in water enough to cover it. Boil an onion in a quart of water Avith a little salt until the onion is very soft. Strain the water, squeezing the onion hard in a bit of cloth. Throw it away, put the water over the fire with a heaping teaspoonful of curry-powder, and when it boils again pour upon the rice and the water in which it was soaked. Turn all into a jar with a close top, or a casserole dish with a cover, and set in a moderate oven until the rice has soaked up the liquid and is swollen and soft, but not broken. Serve in a deep, open dish, and pour over it a few spoonfuls of melted butter, loosening the rice gently with a fork to allow the butter to penetrate to the bottom. Serve with roast chicken, veal, or fish. TURNIPS A LA CREME Cook some young turnips in the usual manner and mash them with plenty of cream. Serve in small portions on slices of toast or fried bread with a few capers spread over them. This makes a nice dish with which to commence a dinner where soup is not served, YOUNG TURNIPS Peel and quarter. Cook half an hour, or until tender, but not broken, in boiling, salted water. Drain, still without breaking, and dish. Sprinkle with pepper and salt, then butter plentifully and serve. Turnips must be served hot, or they are not fit to eat. 162 VEGETABLES YOUNG TTTRinPS (STEWED) Peel and quarter, or slice. Boil fifteen minutes in hot, salted water, drain and cover with a cupful of milk that has been heated in a separate vessel with a tiny bit of soda. "When they simmer again stir in a tablespoonful of butter rolled in half as much flour, pepper and salt to taste, and stew gently fifteen minutes more. Serve in a deep, covered dish, and very hot. YOTJNa TUKNIPS (FRIED) Pare and slice crosswise a quarter of an inch thick. Lay in ice-cold water half an hour, then cook tender, but not too soft, in boiling water without salt. Drain, lay upon a soft cloth until dry and lukewarm, sprinkle with pepper and salt, flour, and fry in hot cottolene; or, dip in beaten egg, then in cracker-dust, and fry. WAYS OF COOKING CABBAGE Select firm, crisp heads, and boil briskly in plenty of water, keeping closely covered, or if possible cut up the cabbage, remove the hard core and steam. This will avoid the odor of cooking. "When perfectly tender chop in a wooden bowl, have a white sauce ready of milk well thickened with corn- starch and flavored with mace or nutmeg. In this stir your chopped soft cabbage, beat vigorously until becoming pulpy, adding for a good sized vegetable dishful a lump of butter* the size of a small egg. Keep very hot and serve with any roast or poultry. Persons who dislike cabbage enjoy this dish and often ask what it is. Cabbage is perfectly delicious cooked with butter and flour. Put it, with a heaping tablespoonful of butter and a level tablespoonful of flour, in a frying-pan, and cook until tender Green savoy cabbage is especially good thus. VEGETABLES 163 A tablespoonful of vinegar in the water in which cabbage is boiled destroys the odor of cooking. The same small con- diment in water in which a tough cut of beef is cooked will very much improve its tenderness. "Kail cannon" is cold cooked cabbage, cold mashed or chopped potatoes, sliced onions and seasoning of pepper and salt, slowly fried with butter in a covered pan. GERMAN RED CABBAGE 1 head red cabbage. Wine glass of sherry. 1 onion. ^ cup vinegar. 2 apples. 2 tablespoonfuls sugar. Salt, pepper and allspice Butter size of 2 eggs. ;. to taste. u Shave cabbage very fine, put slowly into quart of boiling water; add onion cut fine, apples, salt, pepper and allspice to taste, sherry, vinegar, sugar, butter, let simmer one and one-half or two hours and serve hot. YOUNG BOILED BEETS After washing them, boil three-quarters of an hour, scrape, slice, and pour over them a tablespoonful of butter, two of vinegar, and a little pepper and salt. OLD BEETS (BOILED) "Wash and cook in hot, salted water from two to three hours, according to age and size. Throw at once into cold water when done, to loosen the skins ; peel quickly, slice thin, dish, and pour over them a sauce made of three tablespoonfuls of scalding vinegar, a tablespoonful of butter, and a little pep- per and salt. Serve hot. "Left-overs" of beets should be kept for salad and for garnishes. 164 VEGETABLES BEET-TOPS (GERMAN) Cut half a pound of cold boiled ham into dice and fry in a little salad oil with half a grated onion. Add two table- spoonfuls of hot vinegar, and set in hot water while you wash, pick over, and boil the greens in hot, salted water. Fifteen minutes should make them tender. Chop fine, drain well, and mix with the fried ham and vinegar. Dish hot, with poached eggs on top of the greens. ASPARAGUS TIPS Cut the asparagus stalks into pieces about an inch long, and as far down as tender ; cook them in salted boiling water. Drain and stir into them just enough white sauce to well cover them. BOILED ASPARAGUS Scrape the stalks and lay them in cold water for half an hour ; tie into rather loose bundles with soft string, and cook in hot, salted water for half an hour. It is no longer con- sidered necessary to serve boiled asparagus upon toast, many good judges of cooking preferring it without the sodden underpinning. If you are thus minded, undo the strings and arrange the stalks upon a hot dish. Pour white or Hol- landaise sauce over it, or pass this separately. Or you may serve melted butter with it. ASPARAGUS A LA VINAIGRETTE Boil as directed, and while the stalks are hot pour overl them a dressing made of three tablespoonfuls of salad oil tol one of vinegar, a teaspoonful of French mustard, a little salt and cayenne, and a saltspoonful of sugar. Set away in a closely covered dish, and when cold put upon the ice for some hours before serving. It ranks among salads, but is VEGETABLES 165 a delicious accompaniment to cold lamb or chicken on a hot day. SCALLOPED ASPARAGUS Wash the asparagus and cut off the hard, woody part of the stalks. Cut the tender part into inch lengths and par- boil for ten minutes in hot, salted water. Drain and put a layer of them in a buttered bake-dish. Scatter over this minced, hard-boiled eggs, season with salt, pepper, and but- ter-bits, and go on thus until the ingredients are used up. You need about four eggs to a bunch of asparagus. Make a roux of a large tablespoonful of butter and one of flour, and thin with a cupful of hot milk. Cook for a minute, season with paprica, and pour over the asparagus, a layer of which should be uppermost in the scallop ; sift fine crumbs over all with bits of butter stuck in it and grated cheese upon this. Bake twenty minutes, covered, then brown slightly. ASPARAGUS TIPS Use for this dish only the delicate tips of asparagus, less than two inches long. Boil in hot, salted water until tender ; drain, turn into a deep dish, pepper, salt, butter, and pour a good white sauce over them — half a cupful to one cupful of the tips. ASPARAGUS PATES Cut rounds of stale bread an inch and a half thick. Press a small cutter an inch deep into each, and dig out the inside, leaving a round saucerlike cavity. Butter these well and set upon the grating of a hot oven to crisp and to color light- ly. Fill them with asparagus tips prepared as in the last recipe, and serve hot. This is a nice luncheon entree. STUFFED GREEN PEPPERS Cut the tops off the sweet green peppers and carefully remove the seeds. Chop together very fine two peppers, one 106 VEGETABLES small onion and one large tomato (peeled) ; add an equal amount of stale breadcrumbs, one teaspoonful of salt and sufficient melted butter to moisten the mixture. Fill the peppers with the mixture, replace the tops and bake for half an hour in a moderate oven. BAKED OYSTEH PLANT (SALSIFY) Boil the salsify until perfectly tender, then mash through a strainer. Season with pepper and salt. Add a tablespoon- ful of butter and half a cup of milk. Put in a bake-dish, cover with bread-crumbs and bits of butter, and bake fifteen minutes. SALSIFY Scrape roots and put in water with spoonful of vinegar. Boil in plenty of water for an hour (Avater boiling when salsify put in) with an ounce of butter, two tablespoonfuls of vinegar and salt. Drain and serve with white or brown sauce, or serve egged and fried in breadcrumbs, or may be cut small and scalloped like oysters, or may be set to cool sliced in rounds and set in as pie jelly as an accompaniment to various cold meats, or to garnish jellied meats, or to ac- company a light French salad, for which it must be in jelly. (Salsify, or oyster plant, is one of the most delightful of vege- tables, not half enough used.) SALSIFY FHITTEKS 1 bunch salsify. Flour for thin batter. 2 eggs. Salt and pepper to taste. ■J cup milk. Scrape and grate the roots, and stir into a batter made of the beaten eggs, the milk, and flour. Grate the salsify di- rectly into this, that it may not blacken by exposure to the VEGETABLES 167 air. Salt, and drop a spoonful into the hot fat to see if it is of the right consistency. As fast as you fry the fritters, throw into a hot colander to drain. One great spoonful of batter should make a fritter, STEWED SALSIFY 1 bunch of salsify. 3 tablespoonfula cracker 1 cup milk, crumbs. 1 tablespoonful butter. Pepper and salt. Scrape a bunch of salsify and drop into cold water as you cut into inch lengths. Boil in hot, salted w-ater until tender. Drain and pour into the saucepan with the salsify a cupful of hot milk. Simmer five minutes, and stir in cracker-dust, Avith pepper and salt. Stew gently for three minutes, BOILED CORN Husk, clearing the ear of every strand of silk, and trim off stem and top neatly. Boil fifteen or twenty minutes, ac- cording to the age of the corn. Drain, sprinkle the corn with ' salt, and serve upon a hot napkin upon a platter. Fold the corners of the napkin over the corn. CORN FRITTERS Take two cups full of fresh sweet, or very good canned corn, season with one tablespoonful of salt and a teaspoonful of pepper, add two eggs and a quarter of a pound of sifted flour. Do not beat the mixture, but stir vigorously with a wooden spoon for five minutes, till firm. Butter a frying pan and put in the preparation about a gill at a time. Be careful that the fritters do not touch one another, and fry a golden color. Serve hot in a folded napkin. 168 VEGETABLEvS STEWED CORN Husk and clean the corn, and leave it in cold water for fifteen minutes. With a sharp knife split each row of grains all the way down from stem to tip of the ear; then shave, rather than cut, them off down to the cob. Cover with hot water in a sauce-pan, and stew slowly for twenty minutes. Stir in a tablespoonful of butter for a pint of corn; pepper and salt and serve. STEWED CORN AND TOMATOES Cook as in last recipe, and when the corn has simmered five minutes add a cupful of chopped tomatoes (peeled). Cook twenty minutes longer after the boil recommences, season and serve. If there is much liquid in the stew, roll the butter in flour before adding it, and boil a minute more than if the flour were not used. CORN OR APPLE FRITTERS 2 eggs. A little salt. ^ cup milk, 2 teaspoonfuls baking pow- 2 cups flour. . der. 1 cup corn. Make into a thick batter and drop in spoonfuls into boiling lard. May use chopped apples instead ,of corn. CORN FRITTERS 2 cups grated corn. A pinch of soda. 2 eggs. 1 tablespoonful melted but 1 cup milk. ter. 2 tablespoonfuls flour. Salt and pepper. Mix and fry as you would griddle-cakes, and send in hot, in relays. I II VEGETABLES 1(59 SUCCOTASH 6 ears of corn. 1 tablespoonful butter. 1 pt. string beans cut in 1 cup milk, pieces. Pepper and salt. Cut the corn from the cob, bruising as little as possible. Put over the fire with the beans in enough hot water, salted, to cover them, and stew gently half an hour. Turn off nearly all the water and add a cupful of milk. Simmer in this, stirring to prevent burning, twenty minutes ; add the floured butter, the pepper and salt, and stew ten minutes. Serve in a deep dish. CANNED CORN may be used satisfactorily in most dishes that call for green corn. If, before cooking it, the contents of the can be turned into a fine colander, and cold water poured over it to wash off the liquor in which it was preserved, the taste will be cleaner and sweeter. Like all other "canned goods" corn should be opened and poured out upon an open dish for some hours before it is used to get rid of the close, smoky flavor and smell. CORN FRITTERS One can of corn, two eggs, seasoning to taste, two table- spoonfuls of milk or cream. Beat eggs well; add corn by degrees, beating very hard ; salt to taste ; one tablespoonful of butter; stir in milk and thickening enough to hold together for frying. GREEN PEAS Shell and wash ; put them in slightly salted boiling water, and cook them in this for twenty-five minutes. Drain well, turn into a hot dish, put a lump of butter the size of an egg upon them and a little pepper and salt. 170 VEGETABLES CANNED PEAS Drain and feave in cold water for ten minutes, put on in salted boiling water, cook fifteen minutes ; drop in a lump of white sugar and a small sprig of mint, and cook five minutes longer. Drain, butter, pepper and salt, and serve. PUREE OF GREEN PEAS Shell half a peek of peas and set them in a cold place while you boil the pods for twenty minutes in just enough hot, salted water to cover them. Strain them; return the water to the fire with the peas and a sprig of mint, and boil until they are soft enough to rub through a colander. "When you have pressed all through that will go, stir into them a cupful of the water in which they were cooked, season with pepper and salt and put back into the colander. As they begin to simmer stir in a roux of one tablespoonful of flour, cooked for three minutes in two tablespoonfuls of butter, cook one minute, take from the fire and add three tablespoon- fuls of cream, that have been heated with a tiny bit of soda. Pour upon squares of fried bread laid on a hot platter. PLAIN PUREE OF GREEN PEAS Boil and rub a quart of peas through a colander, or pass them through a vegetable-press. Heat a tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan with pepper, paprica, or a dash of cay- enne, half a teaspoonful of sugar, and three mint leaves, finely minced. Stir in the pulped peas and toss and stir with a silver fork until they are very hot. Pile upon a hot platter and lay triangles of fried bread about the base. GREEN-PEA PANCAKES Two cupfuls of green peas left over from dinner, or boiled expressly for this dish, mashed while hot, and rubbed through 4 VEGETABLES 171 a colander. Season with pepper, salt, and butter to taste; let them get cold ; then add two beaten eggs and a cupful of milk. Sift half a teaspoonful of baking powder twice through half a cupful of flour, and beat in lightly at the last. Mix well and bake as you would griddle-cakes. Eat hot. "BLACK-EYED PEAS" are really a species of bean, although known at the South, where they are abundant, by the name given above. They are boiled always with a bit of fat bacon, to give them rich- ness. Drain well, pepper, salt, and serve with the bacon on the top of the peas ; or, after they are boiled they are drained and turned into a frying-pan in which slices of fat bacon have been cooked and then taken out, leaving the fat in the pan. Saute the peas in this until dry, hot, and well sea- soned by the fat. Serve dry, and lay the fried bacon on or about the peas. Dried black-eyed peas must be soaked over night. LIMA BEAITS Put them into salted boiling water, and cook until tender, then drain off the water. ]\Ioisten them with butter, and season with salt and pepper ; and add, if convenient, a little hot cream or cover with white sauce. LIMA BEANS 'After shelling, cook about half an hour in boiling water with a little salt. Drain dry, and after dishing stir in a lump of butter half the size of an egg and pepper and salt to taste. LIMA BEANS (STEWED) Shell a quart of beans, and boil tender in hot, salted water. Drain, add four tablespoonfuls of hot milk, in which has been melted a tablespoonful of butter rolled in a teaspoonful 172 VEGETABLES of flour. Simmer for five minutes, season with pepper and Bait, and serve. KIDNEY BEANS If fresh, cook them as you would Lima beans. If driedj soak over night, and put over the fire in the morning in salted boiling water, and cook gently one hour, or until soft, but not broken. Drain, stir in pepper, salt, and a lump of butter, and serve. KIDNEY BEANS A LA LYONNAISE Soak over night and boil tender, but not until they break ; drain perfectly dry, throw in a little salt, and leave over an empty pot in the colander at the side of the range, as you would potatoes, to "dry off." Have ready in a frying-pan a great spoonful of clarified dripping (that from roast beef is best), with half a small onion, grated, and a little chopped parsley. Salt and pepper to taste, and when hissing hot put in the beans. Shake over the fire about two minutes, until the contents of the pan are well mixed, and as hot as may be without scorching, then serve. CAULIFLOWER ATI GRATIN Boil one or two cauliflowers (after removing leaves) until tender. Strain off the water and place in a dish. Cover with grated cheese, some white sauce and some fried bread- crumbs. Add some small pieces of butter and bake until a nice brown. BOILED CAULIFLOWER Boil the cauliflower, tied in a net, in plenty of hot, salted water, in which has been stirred a tablespoonful of vinegar ; when done, drain and dish, the flower upward. Pour over it a cupful of drawn butter seasoned with lemon-juice, pepper, and salt. Serve very hot. VEGETABLES 173 BOILED CAULIFLOWER WITH TOMATO SAUCE Cook as directed in last recipe, but when dished pour over it, instead of the white sauce, a cupful of strained tomato sauce, seasoned with butter, sugar, salt, and paprica. CAULIFLOWER (PARISIAN STYLE) Boil a good-sized cauliflower until tender, chop it coarsely, and press it hard in a bowl or mould, so that it will keep its form when turned out. Put the shape thus made upon a dish that will stand the heat, and pour over it a tomato sauce. ]\Iake this by cooking together a tablespoonful of butter and flour in a saucepan, and pouring upon them a pint of strained tomato-juice in which half an onion has been stewed. Stir until smooth, and thicken still more by the addition of three or four tablespoonfuls of cracker-dust. Salt to taste, turn the sauce over the moulded cauliflower, set it in the oven for about ten minutes, and serve in the dish in which it is cooked. CAULIFLOWER AU GRATIN (ITALIAN) Boil in hot, salted water and divide into tiny clusters, a "flower" or two on each. Butter a deep dish and put in a layer of these, sprinkling with butter, salt, and pepper, and covering first with Parmesan cheese, then with cracker- crumbs. Wet each layer with milk, and fill the dish in this order, finishing with a layer of crumbs dotted with butter- bits, and dusted with cayenne. Bake, covered, half an hour, then brown. Serve in the dish. STEWED CAUnFLOWER A LA HOLLANDAISE Cut into large clusters of uniform size and stew tender in weak stock or bouillon. (This may be utilized afterward for soup.) Drain, butter, salt, and pepper, and pass with it 174 VEGETABLES drawn-butter, into which have been whipped the yolks of two raw eggs. This is a Dutch recipe and good. BAKED CAULIFLOWER Cut into clusters and stew tender in boiling, salted water. Or, if you have a couple of small cauliflowers, boil them whole and dish together. Drain and lay in a bake-dish. iPour over it a good white sauce (hot), sprinkle with grated cheese and papriea, and bake, covered, twenty minutes. It will be found very nice. CAULIFLOWER AU QRATIN Cook cauliflower; drain well and remove the flowerettes, tear the rest to pieces with a fork, lay it in a deep dish and sprinkle over it a little salt, pepper and grated cheese and a few dried crumbs moistened wdth milk. Then add the top layer of the flowerettes and sprinkle with the salt, pepper and cheese, and bake until slightly brown. FRENCH SPINACH Boil as directed in foregoing recipes, chop, heat with the roux, and season with pepper and salt. In place of the cream in the German method, add the same quantity of white stock — chicken or veal — adding half a saltspoonful of nutmeg or mace and an even teaspoonful of sugar, with a pinch of grated lemon-peel. This seasoning imparts an ex- quisite flavor to the vegetable. SPINACH SOUFFLE 1 pk. spinach. 1 teaspoonful powdered 1 tablespoonful butter. sugar, 1 egg, beaten. Salt and nutmeg. 2 tablespoonfuls cream. Black pepper. Whites 3 eggs. VEGETABLES 175 Boil and chop spinach, and while hot stir in butter and beaten egg, salt, and nutmeg. Season with a little sugar, pepper, and set away to get cold. When you are ready for it, whip into the cold spinach the cream and the stiffened whites of the eggs. Pour into a handsome bake-dish, sift a small teaspoonful of powdered sugar on top, and bake in a hot oven ten minutes, covered, five minutes W'hen j^ou have uncovered it. Send immediately to table, as it soon falls. It may be served as a separate course at a luncheon. Each portion should be helped out upon a square of fried bread laid upon each plate; SPINACH BOILED (PLAIN) Wash a peck of spinach, pick the leaves from the stems, and, without shaking off the wet, put them into an agate-iron or porcelain saucepan. Set this in a pot of boiling water, cover closely, and cook for fifteen minutes. Stir up well from the bottom, then, and put into the saucepan a table- spoonful of hot water in which has been dissolved half a saltspoon of soda. Beat in well, cover the pot, and cook ten minutes longer. Drain the spinach in a colander without pressing it at first, seasoning with salt, pepper, butter, a little sugar, and half a teaspoonful of lemon- juice. Turn into a hot colander, press out the remaining juice very gently not to bruise the spinach, and serve on a heated platter. Cover with slices of hard-boiled egg, and serve one with each por- tion of spinach. The soda gives a fine green to this vege- table. SPINACH SOUFFLE Boil some spinach thoroughly, pass it through a sieve and add two or three well-beaten eggs and a small amount of milk "with pepper and salt ; mix it thoroughly, put it in well but- tered souffle dishes and bake for ten minutes. This makes a nutritious and tasty dish. 176 VEGETABLES BOILED SftUASH Pare off the outer shell, take out the seeds, and cut into small pieces. Boil in hot, salted water until tender. If young, twenty minutes will do this; a longer time is re- quired for full-grown squash. Drain well, rub through a vegetable-press, and return to the saucepan. Mix with salt, pepper, and a tablespoonful of butter made into a roux with a tablespoonful of flour. Stir and beat for a whole minute, until you have a creamy, smoking mass, and pour out. Squash cooked in this way is a very different thing from the watery stuff usually served under that name. BAKED SQUASH 1 squash. | cup milk. 2 tablespoonfuls butter. Bread-crumbs, salt and pep- 1 egg. per. Boil and mash the squash, stir in butter, and egg, beaten light, millv, and pepper and salt to taste. Fill a buttered pudding-dish with this, strew fine bread-crumbs over the top and bake to a nice brown. SQUASH FRITTERS 2 cups cooked and creamed Saltspoonful of salt, squash (cold). -J cup flour. 2 cups milk. | teaspoonful baking powder. 2 eggs. To squash add milk, eggs, salt, and flour in which has been sifted the baking powder. There should be just enough flour to hold the mixture together. Bake on a griddle as you would cakes, and send to table hot. \t:getables 177 FRIED EGG-PLANT 1 egg-plant. ^ cup flour, 1 egg. Pepper and salt. 1 cup milk. Lard for frying. Slice the egg-plant about half an inch thick, peeling the slices. Lay them in salt and water for an hour, placing a plate on them to keep them down. "Wipe each slice dry, and dip into batter made of egg, millr, flour, pepper and salt. Fry in boiling dripping. Drain off all the grease, BROIIED EGG-PLANT Peel and cut into rather thin slices and lay in salted ice- water for an hour; spread upon a soft towel and cover with another, patting and pressing the slices until they are en- tirely dry. Leave them for ten minutes in a mixture of three tablespoonfuls of olive oil and the juice of half a lemon ; sprinkle them with salt and pepper, and broil quickly upon a wire broiler. Twelve minutes should cook both sides. STEWED CARROTS Scrape and boil whole three-quarters of an hour, drain, and cut into cubes half an inch square. Have ready in a saucepan enough weak stock to cover the carrot-dice. Put them on in it and cook twenty minutes, or until tender. Add then two tablespoonfuls of milk, a tablespoonful of butter cut up in one of flour, salt and pepper to taste. Sim- mer five minutes and serve. YOUNG CARROTS A LA PARISIENNE Boil for five minutes ; take up and rub off the skins with a coarse cloth. Return to the fire and cook until tender. Slice lengthwise, making three pieces of a medium-sized car- 178 VEGETABLES rot, two of a small. Have hot in a frying-pan a tablespoon- ful of butter for each cupful of the carrots, and when it bubbles lay in the slices. Saute on both sides, quickly, and just before taking them up sprinkle with chopped parsley. Dish dry; stew over them a little white sugar, pepper, and salt, and serve very hot. CREAMED YOUNa CAEROTS Young carrots. 4 tablespoonfuls cream, 1 tablespoonful butter. 1 teaspoonful chopped pars- Hot water. ley. Salt and pepper. Beaten yolks of 2 eggs. Scald for five minutes and rub off the skins with a rough cloth. Slice crosswise and thin. Heat in a saucepan butter, two tablespoonfuls of hot water, salt and pepper to taste, and put in the sliced carrots. Cook gently, covered, for half an hour. In another saucepan heat cream and chopped parsley. When the mixture boils take from the fire and pour upon the beaten yolks of eggs. Stir up well, pour over the car- rots, cook one scant minute. FRIED SWEET PEPPERS Cut open crosswise, extract the seeds, cut the peppers into slices, lay in cold water for fifteen minutes, salt slightly, dust with flour and fry in hot cottolene for five or six minutes. They are an appetizing accompaniment to cold meat or to boiled fish. STUFFED SWEET PEPPERS Make an incision in one side, and extract the seeds through this with a bit of stick. Stuff with a force-meat of tongue, chicken, ham, or veal, mixed up with boiled rice, and sea- soned with salt, a dash of onion-juice, and a little butter. Sew up the peppers with a few stitches, pack them into a VEGETABLES 179 bake-dish, pour in enough weak stock to keep them from burning, cover and bake in a moderate oven for an hour, then dish, withdrawing the strings. Keep hot while you add to the gravy in the dish a tablespoonful of brown roux. Boil up once and pour over the peppers. Should the gravy have boiled away too much, put in a little boiling water to thin the roux. This is a Syrian recipe and excellent. BUTTEEED PARSNIPS Boil tender and scrape. Slice lengthwise and saute in a little butter heated in a frying-pan and seasoned with pep- per, salt, and minced parsley. Shake and turn until the parsnips are well coated and hot through. Dish, and pour the butter over them. FRIED PARSNIPS Boil tender in salted, hot water; let them get cold, scrape off the skin and slice lengthwise. Pepper and salt, dredge with flour, and fry in hot dripping to a light brown. Drain and serve. PARSNIP CAKES Wash, boil, and scrape the parsnips tender. While hot mash, season with salt and pepper, and make with floured hands into small, flat cakes. Flour well and fry in clarified dripping. CREAMED PARSNIPS Boil, scrape, and slice crosswise. Heat a tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan; put in the parsnips and shake and turn until all are coated with the butter and very hot. Turn them into a deep dish and pour over them a sauce made by adding to the butter left in the saucepan a teaspoonful of flour and thinning it with three or four tablespoonfuls of hot cream. Boil up once, and when you have covered the parsnips with it, serve. 180 VEGETABLES BOILED ARTICHOKES Pare off the stems and the lower and coarser leaves. With a sharp knife trim the tops evenly, and take out the hard core. Wash and lay in cold water ten minutes. Shake off the wet and cook in boiling, salted water for thirty-five min- utes, or until the bottoms are tender. If large, cut into halves; if of moderate size, serve whole with drawn butter or sauce piquante poured over them. CREAMED CELERY Cut into inch-long pieces. Cook tender in boiling, salted water, drain this off, and cover with a cupful of hot milk (half cream, if you have it) in which has been stirred a tablespoonful of white roux. Simmer five minutes and serve. SAVORY CELERY Select the whitest and tenderest stalks and lay aside in ice-water. Cut the outer, coarser stalks into three-inch lengths, and stew in a cupful of stock, seasoned with half teaspoonful of onion-juice, salt, pepper, and parsley. Cook, covered, for an hour, slowly. Drain and press in a colander. Keturn the stock to the fire, and when it boils put the re- served stalks, also cut into short lengths, into it. Cook gently until tender, thicken with a good spoonful of roux, boil up and serve. VEGETABLES 181 WEITTEN RECIPES 182 VEGETABLES WRITTEN RECIPES I VEGETABLES 183 WRITTEN RECIPES 184 VEGETABLES WRITTEN RECIPES PUDDINGS AND SAUCES It depends as much upon the judgment of the cook as on the materials used to make a good pudding. Everything should be the best in the way of materials, and a proper at- tention to the rules, with some practice, will ensure success. Puddings are either boiled, baked, or steamed; if boiled, the materials should be well worked together, put into a thick cloth bag, previously dipped in hot water, wringing it slightly and dredging the inside thickly with flour; tie it firmly, allowing room for it to swell ; drop it into a kettle of boiling water, with a small plate or saucer in the bottom to keep it from sticking to the kettle. It should not cease boil- ing one moment from the time it is put in until taken out, and the pot must be tightly covered, and the cover not re- moved except when necessary to add water from the boiling tea-kettle when the water is getting low. "When done, dip immediately in cold water and turn out. This should be done just before placing on the table. Or, butter a tin pudding mould or an earthen bowl ; close it tight so that water cannot penetrate; drop it into boiling water and boil steadily the required time. If a bowl is used it should be well buttered, and not quite filled with the pudding, allowing room for it to swell; then a cloth wet in hot water, slightly wringing it, then floured on the inner side, and tied over the bowl, meeting under the bottom. To steam a pudding, put it into a tin pan or earthen dish ; tie a cloth over the top, first dredging it in flour, and set it into a steamer. Cover the steamer closely; allow a little longer time than you do for boiling. ^'^Dulds or basins for baking, steaming or boiling should b« well buttered before the mixture is put into them. 185 186 PUDDINGS AND SAUCES Dumplings boiled the same way, put into little separate cloths. Batter puddings should be smoothly mixed and free from lumps. To ensure this, first mix the flour with a very small proportion of milk, the yolks of the eggs and sugar thorough- ly beaten together, and added to this ; then add the remainder of the milk by degrees, then the seasoning, then the beaten whites of eggs last. Much success in making this kind of pudding depends upon a strict observance of this rule ; for, although the materials may be good, if the eggs are put into the milk before they are mixed with the flour, there will be a custard at the top and a soft dough at the bottom of your dish. All sw^eet puddings require a little salt to prevent insipid- ity and to draw out the flavor of the several ingredients, but a grain too much will spoil any pudding. In puddings where wine, brandy, cider, lemon-juice or any acid is used, it should be stirred in last, and gradually, or it is apt to curdle the milk or eggs. In making custard puddings (puddings made w^ith eggs and milk), the yolk of the eggs and sugar should be thoroughly beaten together before any of the milk or season- ing is added, and the beaten whites of egg last. In making puddings of bread, rice, sago, tapioca, etc., the eggs should be beaten very light, and mixed with a portion of the milk, before adding them to the other ingredients. If the eggs are mixed with the milk, without having been thus beaten, the milk will be absorbed by the bread, rice, sago, tapioca, etc., without rendering them light. The freshness of all pudding ingredients is of much im- portance, as one bad article will taint the whole mixture. "When the freshness of eggs is doubtful, break each one separately in a cup, before mixing them all together. The yolks and whites beaten separately make the articles they are put into much lighter. PUDDINGS AND SAUCES 187 Raisins and dried fruits for puddings should be carefully picked, and, in many cases, stoned. Currants 'should be well ^^aghed, pressed in a cloth, and placed on a dish before the fire to get thoroughly dry ; they should then be picked care- fully over, and every piece of grit or stone removed from amongst them. To plump them, some cooks pour boiling water over them, and afterwards dry them carefully before the fire. Many baked-pudding recipes are quite as good boiled. As a safe rule, boil the pudding twice as long as you would re- quire to bake it ; and remember that a boiling pudding should never be touched after it is once put on the stove ; a jar of the kettle destroys the lightness of the pudding. If the water boils down and more must be added, it must be done so carefully that the mould will not hit the side of the kettle, and it must not be allowed to stop boiling for an instant. Batter should never stick to the knife when it is sent to the table ; it will do this both when an insufficient number of eggs is mixed with it and when it is not enough cooked; about four eggs to the half pound of flour will make it firm enough to cut smoothly. When baked or boiled puddings are sufficiently solid, turn them out of the dish they were baked in, bottom uppermost, and strew over them finely sifted sugar. When pastry or baked puddings are not done through, and yet the outside is sufficiently brown, cover them over with a piece of white paper until thoroughly cooked; this prevents them from scorching. . TO CLEAN CTTRRANTS Put them in a sieve or colander, and sprinkle them thickly with flour; rub them well until they are separated, and the flour, grit and fine stems have passed through the strainer. 188 PUDDINGS AND SAUCES Place the strainer and currants in a pan of water and wash thoroughly, then lift the strainer and the currants together, and change the water until it is clear. Dry the currants between clean towels. It hardens them to dry in an oven. TO CHOP SUET Break or cut in small pieces, sprinkle with sifted flour, and chop in a cold place to keep it from becoming sticky and soft. TO STONE RAISINS Put them in a dish and pour boiling water over them; cover and let them remain in it ten minutes; it will soften so that by rubbing each raisin between the thumb and finger, the seeds will come out clean; then they are ready for cutting or chopping if required. MARMALADE PUDDING 4 tablespoonfuls marmalade. 1 cup flour. 3 cups breadcrumbs. 1 teaspoonful baking-pow- ^ cup milk. der. 1 cup suet. Pinch of salt. Steam and serve with sauce. COLD FRUIT PUDDING Hot stewed fruit poured over layers of bread and butter in a mould; when cold serve with cream. COTTAGE PUDDING Two tablespoonfuls butter, one cup white sugar, one egg, one cup milk, one pint flour, two tablespoonfuls baking powder; bake and serve with sauce. PUDDINGS AND SAUCES 189 PLUM PUDDING 1 lb. stoned raisins. A little milk. 1 lb. currants. 2 oz. orange peel. 1 lb. beef suet. 6 oz. flour. 1- lb. sugar. 1 lb. breadcrumbs. 2 oz. lemon peel. Little nutmeg, einnamonj 2 oz. citron peel. cloves and a little salt. 6 eg£ ?s. Mix all together with eggs and milk; dip cloth in boiling water, flour, and put in mixture, and tie loosely ; boil fast for four hours and a half. CARAMEL PUDDING 4 tablespoonfuls white sugar. 2 tablespoonfuls cornstarch. ^ cup brown sugar. Vanilla. 1 pt. milk. Put sugar on stove and stir until brown. Put on stove again to simmer one pint milk, two tablespoonfuls corn starch, vanilla flavoring. When all are ready mix together, and stir until thick. Put in a mould to cool. CHEESE PUDDING FOR LUNCHEON Toast four slices of bread, place in a small baking-dish, cover with thick layer of grated cheese, dust lightly with salt and pepper, cover with another slice of bread, then a layer of cheese, and so on until you have used the four slices of toast, having the top bread ; baste over one half a pint of hot milk, bake in a quick oven twenty minutes. 190 PUDDINGS AND SAUCES PLUM PUDDING (Carrot Pudding) ^ lb. suet. ^ teaspoonful each ground •| lb. flour. allspice and cloves. ^ lb. raisins. Little black pepper. ^ lb. currants. 1 teaspoonful salt. ■J lb. grated potato. Citron, lemon, orange peel ^ lb. grated carrots. and chopped almonds may ^ cup molasses. be added. Steam three and one-half or four hours. CHOCOLATE SPONGE PUDDING 4 eggs. 8 teaspoonfuls baking-pow- 1 cup sugar. der. 3 tablespoonfuls milk. 1 cup flour. 3 tablespoonfuls grated chocolate. Beat lightly together yolks of eggs and one cup sugar, add milk, grated chocolate and baking powder ; sift in flour, add egg whites stiffly beaten. Butter a mould with pipe in centre, fill two-thirds full and steam three-quarters of an hour. Turn out and cover with chocolate sauce, fill centre with whipped cream and chopped almonds. PARADISE PUDDING One pint bread crumbs, four eggs, one pint suet, four apples minced fine, one cup currants, one-half cup raisins, one cup milk, one and one-half cups sugar; season to taste, and thicken with flour; put in a mould and boil three and one-half hours. FIG PUDDING One-half pound figs, one teacup minced apples, one tea- cup suet, one teacup sugar, one teacup breadcrumbs, a little flour, two eggs, one nutmeg. Boil or steam four hours. PUDDINGS AND SAUCES 191 CARAMEL PUDDING 2 tablespoonfuls cornstarch. ^ teaspoonful salt. 1 pt. milk. 1 cup brown sugar. Let milk boil, then add the cornstarch moistened with milk; boil sugar and scorch on a tin pie-dish. Then pour into the cornstarch, stirring very quickly. Pour into mould. MADEIRA PUDDING 2 eggs. ^ teaspoonful baking-powder. Their weight in flour, but- A little vanilla. ter and sugar. Cream the butter. Then add the sugar; then the eggs one at a time ; flavor and beat in the flour and baking powder. If too stiff add one tablespoonful milk. Bake in small moulds, half full, for fifteen or twenty minutes. Sauce: One and one-half tablespoonfuls butter, four tablespoonfuls sugar, one egg ; beat all together until light. Then add boil- ing water just before serving, and flavor. CARITA PUDDING 1 lb. figs. 2 tablespoonfuls sugar. 3 eggs, slightly beaten. Vanilla. 2 cups milk. Grease a plain-sided oval mould with butter, and line it with figs, which are split through the centre lengthwise. Place the skin side next to the mould. Make a custard of milk, eggs and sugar ; place the bowl containing this custard in a saucepan of boiling water and stir gently until it thick- ens to the consistency of cream (it must on no account boil) ; add three drops vanilla and set it aside to cool. "When cool pour it into the lined mould and steam till it is set, which will probably be in twenty minutes. Take care that the top 192 PUDDINGS AND SAUCES of the mould is covered to prevent the steam settling. Turn out of the mould to serve. To be eaten with cream and sugar. ENGLISH BOIIED BATTER PUDDING 2 tablespoonfuls flour. 1 tablespoonful white sugar. 2 eggs, well beaten. ^ pt. milk. Mix well and pour into a mould well greased with drip- ping. Boil for one hour. Serve with wine sauce. The mould should be quite full to prevent water from entering. JOHN BULL'S OWN PLUM PUDDING 1 lb. suet. i lb. breadcrumbs. 1 lb. moist sugar. i lb. flour. 1 lb. currants. 1 teaspoonful salt. 1 lb. raisins. 1 teaspoonful mixed spice. 1 lb. sultana raisins. 8 eggs. 1 lb. mixed candied peel. i pt. brandy. Mix all in the following order. Flour, salt, spice, sugar, raisins, peel, breadcrumbs, sultanas, and currants. Beat egg and strain them for ten minutes, add brandy to them and pour over the mass, stir until all are thoroughly mixed. Butter four small bowls and fill, scald cloth and flour it, tie down and boil five and one-half hours (or more), if one large pudding boil thirteen hours. I use cinnamon and nut- meg for spice and four small bowls. PRUNE PUDDING Stew one pound prunes and sweeten with one teaeupful of sugar. Beat to a very stiff froth the whites of four eggs and stir lightly into the prunes when prunes are quite cold. Bake twenty minutes. Serve cold with cream. PUDDINGS AND SAUCES 193 BLUEBEKRY PUDDING 1 egg. 1 cup milk (sour). 2 large tablespoonfuls sugar. 1 teaspoonful soda. A little salt. Flour to make stiff batter. Stir in a large pint blueberries. ]\Iix and put in buttered basin. Steam one hour and fifteen minutes. Serve hot with whipped cream. CRACKER PTTDDINO 10 crackers rolled. 1 cup currants. A piece of butter. Citron, cinnamon, nutmeg 5 eggs. and little flour (1 table- 1 cup sugar. spoon). 2 cups stoned raisins. Soak crackers in one quart milk over night. In the morning add well-beaten eggs, sugar, raisins, currants, cit- ron, cinnamon, nutmeg, flour and salt. Steam four or five hours. Sauce for cracker pudding. — One cup sugar, one egg beaten to a froth ; pour one cup hot milk over it, little salt. Flavor with wine or brandy. SAUCE FOR PUDDING One cup sugar, one egg beaten to a froth. Pour one cup hot milk over it; little salt. Flavor with wine or brandy. SAUCE FOR PUDDING Three eggs (yolks only), two tablespoons castor sugar, whip to cream ; one cup sherry. Cook in double saucepan one minute. Serve immediately. 194 PUDDINGS AND SAUCES SATJCE FOE COTTAGE PUDDING To one cup boiling water add two tablespoonfuls of brown sugar, lump of butter size of an egg, and one egg well beaten. Then let all come to a boil. Take care not to scorch. HOT CHOCOLATE SA¥CE FOR PUDDING Melt one-quarter cake unsweetened chocolate with three- quarters of a cup of powdered sugar and one-half cup of boiling water, stirring all the time. Cook in a double boiler to the consistency of molasses. Serve hot. CREAM SAUCE 1 pt. milk. ^ oz, cornstarch. 2 eggs. 3 oz. powdered sugar. 1 oz. flour. Vanilla flavoring. Put milk to boil ; break eggs into a basin ; add flour, corn- starch, powdered sugar, beating all well together; add the boiling milk gradually, stirring well. Put all in the sauce- pan and stir till it comes to a boil, then remove and add vanilla. CHOCOLATE SAUCE Two tablespoonfuls grated chocolate, three tablespoonfuls each of cream and flour, one cup sugar, one-half teaspoonful butter, one teaspoonful vanilla, boil. PUDDING SAUCE One cup water, two teaspoonfuls of flour or cornstarch, butter the size of an egg, pinch of salt, nutmeg and sugar to taste, teaspoonful of vinegar. FOAMY SAUCE The whites of two eggs, one cup sugar well beaten to- gether. This may be done an hour or more before serving. PUDDINGS AND SAtJCES 19^ Add last thing before sending to table one cupful of liot syrup of preserved pears, apricots, peaches or anj'thing of that sort, or a cupful of hot milk, not boiling. Beat all to- gether and serve. CUSTARD FOR CARAMEL PUDDING One egg, one pint milk, a little sugar, a pinch of salt, one tablespoonful of cornstarch. SYRUP FROM ORANGE PEEL Peel four sweet oranges, being careful not to get any of the white skin in, put the yellow skin in three pints of cold water and half a pound of loaf sugar, and cook together into a syrup. This is nice for flavoring. FOAM SAUCE One cup of sugar, half a cup of butter, beaten to a cream, then add the yolks of two eggs and a wineglass of sherry; then add the beaten whites, and stand in a bowl of hot water. Stir for one minute. CARAMEL PUDDING 1 cup granulated sugar. Yolks of 8 eggs. 1 pt. cream. 1 glass rye whisky. Rind of ^ lemon. Melt sugar to a light brown. Line a mould with it by putting some in and turning the mould till cool. Sweeten cream to taste, put in the sweetened cream, the grated rind of one-half a lemon; put all into a double boiler. When it comes to a boil pour into a basin and let cool. Add the yolks of eggs and whisky. Stir all together and strain into the prepared mould. Tie kitchen paper over mould and 196 PUDDINGS AND SAUCES steam three-quarters of an hour. Care must be taken to steam exactly the three-quarters of an hour or the pudding "will not be firm. Serve with whipped cream. Pia PUDDING 1 cup chopped figs. 1 large cup brown sugar. 1 cup milk. 2 eggs. 2 large cups grated bread- 1 cup chopped suet, crumbs. A pinch of salt. Pour over figs boiling milk, grated bread-crumbs, brown sugar, eggs, salt, and suet. Either steam or boil for four hours and serve with sauce. PLUM PUDDING I lb, breadcrumbs. i lb. mixed peel. 1 lb. raisins. J lb. brown sugar. 1 lb. currants. 1 small teaspoonful salt. 1 lb. chopped suet. 1 nutmeg. 8 eggs (well beaten). 1 wineglass brandy. 2 apples, chopped fine. A little milk or molasses. Boil six hours, or, if some days before, four, and when wanted two hours. TAPIOCA FRUIT PUDDING One cup tapioca steeped over night in one quart of water ; drain off water in the morning, add one cup of sugar and the rind and juice of one lemon to tapioca. Put box and a half of fresh fruit (red currants delicious) in pudding-dish; put in tapioca and mix; bake in a slow oven for one hour. To be served cold. PUDDINGS AND SAUCES 197 POLKA PUDDING 4 tablespoonfuls arrow root '1 dessertspoonful rose water, 4 €ggs. A few drops essence of lemon. 3 oz. fresh butter, ' 3 pts. of milk. 1 teacup white sugar. Mix arrowroot in a pint of cold milk, beat eggs well, add then butter, cut into small bits ; rose water, essence of lemon or ratafia, sugar. Boil two pints of milk in a double boiler. AVhen boiling stir in the other ingredients, without taking the boiler off the stove. Let it boil till thick, then pour into a mould to cool ; turn it out and serve cold. Half this quan- tity will be sufficient for a small family. CAKE PUDDING 1 egg. 1 cup flour. 1 tablespoonful butter. 2 teaspoonfuls baking-pow- f cup of sugar. der. 1 cup milk. Butter the mould, then put in a little preserve and then your batter. Steam one hour. BAKED SUET PUDDING Half a cupful of sugar, half a cupful of suet, one egg, one cup of milk, two heaping cups of flour, three teaspoonfuls of baking powder. This is very good eaten with maple syrup. CREAMY SAUCE J cup buttei'. ^ cup powdered sugar. 2 tablespoonfuls wine. 2 tablespoonfuls cream. Cream butter, add sugar slowly, then wine and cream. Beat well and just before using, place bowl over hot water 198 PUDDINGS AND SAUCES and stir till creamy, but not enough to melt the butter. When the wine and cream are added, the sauce has a curdled appearance. This is removed by beating and heating enough to blend materials. Sauce should be cold when served. GINGER PUDDING 3 cups flour. 3 teaspoonfuls baking-pow- ■| cup sugar. der. •| cup golden syrup. 2 teaspoonfuls ginger. ^ cup suet. Mix with water to a thin batter; steam two hours and eat with sweet sauce. CHEAP PLUM PUDDING One cup of suet, one cup of molasses, one cup sweet milk, one cup of seeded raisins, three cups of flour, a little salt and soda and one egg. Boil three or four hours. SPONGE PUDDING 1 pt. milk. 2 oz. sugar, 2 oz. flour. 6 eggs, beaten separately, JMix milk, sugar and flour and heat but not boil. Take off the fire and put in butter, the yolks of eggs thoroughly beaten, then the whites. Bake twenty-five minutes in a pan or mould set in hot water. Eat with foam sauce. RICE APPLE DUMPLING Boil a half pound of rice and season it with butter and salt. After removing it from the fire stir in two well-beaten eggs. Have ready squares of white muslin. Dip them one by one in hot water, sprinkle with flour and put in each two tablespoonfuls of the rice. Spread the rice and in the centre PUDDINGS AND SAUCES 199 place a peeled and cored apple. In the cavity left by the core, put some currant jelly and sugar or spice and sugar, draw the corners of the cloth together and fasten closely at the top with pins. Boil or steam for a half hour. Serve with cream or vanilla sauce. WHOLE WHEAT FIG PUDDIN<3- One and a half cups of grated whole wheat bread-crumbs ; rub into it half a cupful of butter; add half a cupful of sugar, one cupful of chopped figs, one egg well beaten, and a good half cup of milk. Steam three hours. BROWN PUDDINa Three eggs and their weight in sugar, flour and butter, or a little less butter, half a teaspoouful of soda, four table- spoonfuls of raspberry jam. Steam two hours. Serve with cream sauce. PLUIE PUDDING 1| lbs. muscatel raisins. Rind of 2 lemons. IJ lbs. currants. 1 oz. ground nutmeg. 1 lb. sultana raisins. 1 oz. ground cinnamon. 2 lbs. moist sugar. 2 oz. chopped almonds. 2 lbs. breadcrumbs, ^ pt. brandy. 2 lbs. chopped suet. 6 eggs. 6 oz. mixed peel. Mix all the dry ingredients together and moisten with the brandy and well-beaten eggs. Boil about six hours. MACARONI PUDDING Break eight or ten long sticks of macaroni into pieces an inch long or less. Throw into a saucepan with plenty of boiling water and cook for twenty minutes. Drain away the 200 PUDDINGS AND SAUCES water and boil again more slowly for another twenty minutes in a quart of milk with a cup of sugar and a slice of butter. Turn into a pudding dish and allow to cool. Beat in three eggs, flavor with vanilla, oil of cloves or oil of cinnamon, and bake slowly. Or use four eggs, keeping two whites to be beaten stiffly for the top. Brown in the oven for a minute or two. BREAD AND BUTTER PUDDING Cut some slices of home-made bread, about half an inch thick, butter and lay in a pudding-dish, sprinkle with cur- rants, put in another layer of buttered bread and currants. Beat three eggs light and stir into a pint of milk, sweeten to taste ; flavor with a little grated lemon-peel or cinnamon, pour over the bread and butter and bake in a moderate oven until the custard is set. Test with a knife ; if the knife comes out clean the pudding is done. If baked too long the pud- ding will be watery. Serve cold in the dish in which it is baked, with a simple sauce. ICE PUDDING 3 eggs. [White cherries, plums, citron, 1 pt. milk. almonds (pounded), 1 tablespoonful sugar. 'Angelica, pineapple. 4 tablespoonfuls sherry. ^ glass curagao. 1 pt. cream. Macaroons (crushed). Candied ginger, red cherries. Make custard of milk and eggs and flavoring, the night before, as it is better. The fruit must be cut fine, having been soaked the night before in curacao. Whip cream a little, mix cold custard with it, half freeze in freezer. Do this very slov,dy, then mix in macaroons, then fruit; let freeze a while longer. "When frozen put in shape. PUDDINGS AND SAUCES 201 DATE OR Fia PUDDING •J lb. dates or figs. -J lb. breadcrumbs. I lb. suet. A little salt and nutmeg. ^ teaspoonful soda. 2 eggs. 5 oz. brown sugar. Mix all the ingredients with well-beaten eggs. Put into buttered mould, and boil two and a half hours. Serve with brandy sauce. The pudding is improved by soaking the dates beforehand in a small cupful of sherry or whiskey. YORKSHIRE PUDDING 3 eggs. 1 pt. of milk. 4 tablespoonfuls flour sifted 1 teaspoonful salt, twice. Put flour and salt into a bowl, break eggs into it ; mix well, and add milk by degrees, beating till well mixed. Cook twenty to thirty minutes in heat of cake oven. BON ACCORD PUDDING 4 good sized apples. 4 oz. raisins. •| lb. breadcrumbs. 'A little salt and nutmeg. 4 oz. sugar. 3 eggs. Pare, core and mince apples quite fine. Beat up and add eggs to the other ingredients, beating all well. Put into a buttered mould, tie down with a cloth, and boil for an hour and a half. Serve with sweet sauce. BREAD AND BUTTER PUDDING Spread your bread with a little butter and cut into slices about half an inch thick, and put into a flat buttered pud- ding dish, put one layer on the bottom of the dish and then 202 PUDDINGS AND SAUCES put some raisins over it; do this until the dish is full and then make a little custard with two eggs to a pint and a half of milk, pour the custard over the bread, first sprinkling sugar over the bread, then put a piece of butter, about a dessertspoonful, in the custard, so that it will float on the top. Bake in a moderate oven. PINEAPPLE AND TAPIOCA PUDDING One cup pearl tapioca, soak over night and boil in the morning until clear; add one cup sugar, one teaspoonful vanilla, one pint grated or finely chopped pineapple and set away to cool. Serve with plain or whipped cream. PATTERDALE PUDDING 3 eggs. ^ lb. butter. Beat the butter to a cream, beat the eggs in one by one, then add the sugar and flour. Put into cups and bake in a moderately heated oven twenty minutes. This is a prime recipe. CARKOT PUDDING 1 1 1 1 1 cup grated carrots. cup grated potato. cup brown sugar. cup suet. large cup raisins. Steam in mould three hour 1 large cup currants. 1 egg. A little chopped peel. 1 teaspoonful soda. Salt and spice to taste. s. Brandy sauce. ARRAT PUDDING 2; lb. macaroons. 1 lbs. ladies' fingers soaked in wine. 6 eggs. 2^ cups sugar. 2 tablespoonfuls gelatine. PUDDIXGS AND SAUCES 203 Beat macaroons, ladyfiugers, eggs and sugar for one-half an hour; dissolve gelatine and mix with eggs after they are beaten, and whip quickly for a minute or two. Have whipped cream on top. CREAM SPONGE •J box Knox's gelatine. 1 pt. cream. I cup cold water. 1 cup sugar. 1 cup milk. 1 egg. 1 teaspoonful vanilla. Soak gelatine in water for one-half hour, then stand it in boiling water to dissolve. Scald the milk, add sugar, beat the egg until light, and add hot milk to egg, stirring con- stantly while adding, removing from fire for the purpose; add gelatine and flavoring, and set aside to cool but not to set. Whip the cream, add the cooled custard, beat well, and put into moulds. ORANGE PUDDING 1 cup sugar. 1 orange. ^ cup cracker crumbs. 1 pt. milk. 2 eggs. 1 teaspoonful butter. Soak the crumbs in a little of the milk, butter and sugar, add grated rind and eggs beaten together, then orange juice and crumbs, bake half an hour in moderate oven. LEMON TAPIOCA PUDDING One small cup tapioca, soak over night in two cups of water; add another cup of water in the morning. Juice of one and a half large lemons, rind of one lemon, one cup sugar, yolks of two eggs beaten ; cook till the tapioca is clear — about an hour. Whip whites of eggs with a little sugar and put on the top. 204 PUDDINGS AND SAUCES DEKBYSHIRE PUDBING 1 pt. milk. Butter size of walnut. 1 heaping tablespoonful 1 cup white sugar. flour. 1 cup blanched almonds. 1 lemon. 4 eggs, beaten separately. Milk boiled; keep a wineglass milk cold and mix with flour, pour hot milk on this and stir thoroughly until thick; let cool; add grated rind of lemon, butter, and white sugar, blanched almonds cut in about eight pieces, the yolks of eggs well beaten, and whites of two eggs. All these ingredients well mixed and poured into a buttered pudding dish, baked until a light gold color, then ice with two whites left, juice of a lemon and a little white sugar, well beaten; return to oven until icing is stiff. Allow pudding to become quite cold. JELLY PUDDING ^ oz. gelatine. Sherry. Yolks 5 eggs. 6 oz. sugar. 1 lemon. ^ pt. milk. Dissolve gelatine in a little water, beat the yolks of eggs; rub sugar into them with a spoon, add half a pint of milk and the gelatine ; stir over fire until thick like custard. Take off and add the juice of a lemon and a wineglass of sherry and whites of eggs which have been well beaten. ]\Iix well together. Put in a mould and let stand until next day. Should be eaten with cream. COLD ALMOND PUDDING Four eggs, quarter pound of ground almonds, quarter pound of powdered sugar; beat the eggs until very light, then add the sugar and almonds gently, then beat till it bubbles, and put in a greased dish. Put blanched almonds on top and bake in rather a moderate oven. PUDDINGS AND SAUCES 205 HOT ALMOND PUDDING ■| lb. ground almonds. 2 oz. currants, ^ lb. sugar. 2 oz. raisins. •J lb. suet. , 1 oz. preserved cherries. 2 eggs. A little angelica. ■J lb, flour. A little ground mace. 1 teacupful water. ^ nutmeg, grated. ^ teaspoonful ground gin- A few drops almond extract. ger. The suet must be chopped fine. Add all the other ingredi- ents and work them together for ten minutes, so that all is well mixed. Boil for three hours or more. POUDING A LA PARISIENNE 1 oz. butter. 3 eggs. 1 oz. sugar. 4 oz. mixed fruits, pears, 1 oz. flour. peaches, glace cherries, an- 1 gill milk. gelica, apricots, pine-apple. Vanilla. etc. Dissolve butter in a sauce-pan, mix in sugar, flour, milk; stir all over the fire until boiling, cover it with a lid, and let it stand on a warm part of the stove for five minutes, then remove it to the table and stir in the yolks of the eggs, whip the whites to a stiff froth and stir them in lightly and thoroughly; now add a few drops of vanilla essence, and about four ounces of different sorts of fruit, cut into small pieces, such as pears, peaches, glace cherries, angelica, apri- cots, pineapple, etc. Put the pudding into a plain round mould, which must be previously buttered, covered with a greased paper, and steam for three-quarters of an hour ; turn on to a dish and pour wine sauce round. LEMON PUDDING Put one quart of water to boil; when boiling mix in two tablespoonfuls cornstarch, previously dissolved in a little 206 PUDDINGS AND SAUCES water; the juice and grated rind of two lemons, a large cup- ful of white sugar. When quite thick beat in the whites of three eggs, beaten stiff; set aside to cool; serve with a thin custard made with the yolks of eggs, flavored with vanilla. STEAMED ROLY POLY f cup suet, chopped very 2 teaspoonfuls baking-pow- fine. der. 3 cups flour. A pinch of salt. 1 cup water. Plum jam. Eoll on a board and spread thickly with plum jam. Place in a tin and steam one and a half or two hours. Sauce — Two eggs, one cup of sugar, half cup of butter. Mix well together and pour into the mixture one cup of boiling wine — sherry is best. PLAIN PLUM PUDDING Three cups of flour, two cups of suet, one teaspoonful bak- ing-powder, one cup of sugar, one cup of molasses. Fruit and spice to taste. Mix soft with milk; steam three and a half or four hours. CHRISTMAS PLUM PUDDING 2 lbs. raisins. 2 thick slices bread crumbed 2 lbs. currants. fine. ^ lb. citron or lemon peel. 7 eggs. 1 teacup sugar. 1 teaspoonful ground cloves. 2 lbs. beef suet. 1 teaspoonful cinnamon. Butter size of orange. 1 nutmeg grated. 2 lbs. flour. Mix it all with milk or water, boil four hours in a bag. This makes two large puddings, and may be kept a month steamed when wanted, and eaten with a sauce. PUDDINGS AND SAUCES 207 PLUM PUDDING One pound each of suet, bread crumbs, raisins, currants, and sugar, one glass brandy, one glass sherry, eight eggs, one nutmeg, a little mace or cinnamon, one saltspoonful of salt and milk enough to moisten ; boil six hours. Fewer currants and raisins may be used and the difference made up with candied peels, which is an improvement. SPONGE PUDDING 1 pt. milk. ^ cup sugar. 1 cup butter. 5 eggs. ^ cup flour. 1 teaspoonful vanilla. (For eight people). Wet the flour with part of the milk, then cook it all in the milk ten minutes; add butter and sugar while hot. When cool add the yolks of eggs well beaten, then add the whisked whites, and stir thoroughly. Bake in a two-quart basin (first set in a pan of hot water), half an hour. Cream for sauce. FIG PUDDING One pound of figs, one pound breadcrumbs, one cup melted butter, half pound sugar, five eggs, one nutmeg, orange and lemon peel. Steam three hours. BROWN PUDDING Weight of 2 eggs in flour. 2 tablespoonfuls raspberry Weight of 2 in butter. jam. Weight of 1 in sugar. ^ teaspoonful baking soda. 2 eggs. Mix sugar and eggs to a cream, beat jam till all bubbles, then add flour and half a teaspoonful carbonate of soda. Steam one hour and three-quarters. Sauce. — Yolks of three 208 PUDDINGS AND SAUCES eggs, two tablespoonfuls castor sugar; whip to a cream with one cup cooking sherry in a double saucepan, just a minute. STEAMED SAGO PUDDING 1 pt. milk. 3 oz. sugar. 3 oz. sago. Grated rind of 1 lemon. 2 oz. fresh butter. Put into a saucepan milk, sago, fresh butter, sugar, the grated rind of one lemon. Boil all together for thirteen and a half minutes. Work in three eggs. Mix together one-half tablespoon flour, one and one-half teaspoonfuls sugar ; butter mould and dust flour and sugar into it well. Pour in the mixture and put buttered paper on top and steam one hour. MARMALADE PUDDING i lb. suet. 2 tablespoonfuls orange mar- i lb. breadcrumbs. malade. i lb. sugar. 1 egg. 2 oz. flour or ground rice. ■| teaspoonful baking-powder. 1 tablespoonful milk. Finely chop the suet and put it in a bowl with the flour, sugar, breadcrumbs and baking powder. Mix well together. Beat the eggs until light, then beat into it the milk and mar- malade. Mix all together, pour into a well-greased mould. Twist over a sheet of paper and steam four hours. COLD PUDDING "Well-beaten yolks of 3 eggs. 1 tablespoonful cornstarch. 1 cup white sugar. 1 cup cold water. Juice and rind of 2 lemons. Boil together until thick ; stir well, and pour while hot into a pudding dish, lined first with thin stale cake. JVhen PUDDINGS AND SAUCES 209 cooked cover the top witli three eggs (the whites) well whisked, and brown in the oven. Serve cold. APPLE MERINGTJE PUDDING 1 pt. stewed apples, ^ teacup sugar. 3 eggs, whites and yolks 1 teaspoonful butter- beaten separately. -J teaspoonful essence of al- Little cinnamon. mond. Prepare the apples as for a pie, and stew till almost a pulp, sweeten and spice, and while hot stir in the yolks of the eggs gradually. Beat very light, pour into a buttered dish, and bake for ten minutes. Cover, without drawing it from the oven, with a meringue made of the beaten whites, two tablespoonfuls of white sugar, and the almond flavoring. Spread it over with a tablespoon, evenly and quickly, close the oven again, and brown very slightly. Serve either hot or cold, as preferred. In making the meringues see that the eggs are quite fresh, whip them in a cool place, and on a cold dish, otherwise they will not rise properly. Use them as soon as they are whipped to a high snowy heap ; if left to stand they will become flat, and it is impossible to well froth them a second time. It must also be remembered that the whites will not froth to stiffness, if a drop of the yolk is mixed with them. BAKED APPIE PUDDING 6 large apples (grated). Juice of 1 lemon and half the 3 tablespoonfuls butter. rind grated. ^ lb. sugar. Pastry. 2 eggs (whites and yolks beaten separately). Beat the butter and sugar into a cream, stir in the yolks, the lemon, the grated apple, and lastly the whites of the 210 PUDDINGS AND SAUCES eggs. Line a dish with pastry, pour in the mixture, and bake till nicely browned. This is best cold. Normandy pippins may be used for this pudding if liked. APPLE CHARLOTTE. Slices of bread and butter, with the crust trimmed off, six apples, the grated rind of a lemon and the juice, sugar to taste. Butter a pie-dish, and place a layer of bread-and-butter at the bottom, then a layer of apples, peeled, cored and cut into slices; sprinkle these over with sugar, a little of the lemon peel, and a few drops of the juice. Repeat this until the dish is full, then cover it w^ell over with the peel of the apples to prevent it burning, and bake in a quick oven about three-quarters of an hour. When done, remove the peel, turn it out on a dish, sprinkle with white sugar, and serve at once. APPLE SOUFrLE PUDDING 6 or 7 fine apples. 2 tablespoonfuls butter. 1 cup fine breadcrumbs. Nutmeg and a little grated 4 eggs. lemon peel. 1 cup sugar. Pare, core, and slice the apples, and stew in a covered double saucepan, without a drop of water, until they are tender. Mash to a smooth pulp, and while hot, stir in the butter and sugar. Let it get quite cold, and whip in, first the yolks of the eggs, then the whites — beaten very stiff — alternately with the breadcrumbs. Flavor, beat quickly three minutes, until all the ingredients are reduced to a creamy batter, and bake in a buttered dish, in a moderate oven. It will take about an hour to cook it properly. Keep it covered until ten minutes before you take it out. This will retain the juices and prevent the formation of a crust on the top. PUDDINGS AND SAUCES 211 APPLE FRITTERS •J lb. flour. 2 eggs, whites and yolks 1 oz. butter. beaten separately. ■^ teaspoonful salt. ]\Iilk for thin batter. Prepare some apples, as for a pie, or mince them if pre- ferred ; add these to the batter, and drop a large tablespoon- f ul at a time into a pan of boiling lard or clarified dripping ; fry till of a light brown, turning when required. When done, lay them on a sheet of blotting-paper before the fire to absorb the grease, then dish them, piled high, one above the other, and strewed with sifted sugar. They should be served as hot as possible. SWISS APPLE PUDDING !A.pples, breadcrumbs, moist sugar, butter. Prepare the apples as for a pie, and put a layer of them in a buttered dish; cover with breadcrumbs, and a little sugar, and a few small pieces of butter. Repeat this until the dish is full, and bake till well browned. When finished, turn it out of the dish and sprinkle with white sugar. GERMAN PUDDING 1 cup stewed apples. 3 eggs. 1 cup breadcrumbs. Juice of 1 lemon. 1 cup milk. Some chopped peel. Butter size of egg. A few almonds, chopped. X tablespoonful sugar. Have apples, sweetened; add bread-crumbs soaked in milk; butter, sugar creamed with butter; three eggs, yolks and whites beaten separately; juice of one lemon and some of the peel chopped fine; a few almonds chopped fine and mixed well with butter. Steam. 212 PUDDINGS AND SAUCES AGEA PUDDING '4 eggs. Bread-and-butter marmalade. 1^ pts. milk. 1 pt. boiled custard. 1 tablespoonful sugar. Vanilla to taste. Cut thin slices of bread-and-butter, and spread them with the marmalade. Fit them neatly into a buttered pie-dish until it is half full; then pour over them gradually a hot custard made of the milk heated almost to boiling, then taken off the fire, and the beaten eggs and sugar stirred in with the flavoring. Place a small plate on the top to pre- vent the bread from rising, and let it soak for half an hour. Grate a little nutmeg on the top, and bake, and when done turn it out of the dish, and pour over it a pint of boiled cus- tard. This pudding is very good, either hot or cold, espe- cially so if French bread can be used. A plainer pudding may be made by omitting two of the eggs and the boiled custard, but in that case it should be sent to table in the dish in which it is baked. Both are very good and may be commended to housekeepers who seek a simple, yet dainty dessert. ARROWROOT CHARLOTTE 2 tablespoonfuls flour. 3 or 4 stale sponge cakes. 3 tablespoonfuls arrowroot, yanilla flavoring. 1 qt. milk. Line a mould with the sponge cakes, cut thin, and sprinkle with sherry. Mix the flour and arrowroot with enough cold milk to make it smooth. Put the remainder of the milk into a saucepan and stir in the mixture just before it boils; boil a few minutes, stirring all the time, then pour it boiling into the mould. Stand it aside till quite cold, turn it out of the mould and spread it with jelly or jam. PUDDINGS AND SAUCES 213 AREOWROOT CREAMS 1 oz. arrowroot. 1 qt. milk. 3 oz. powdered sugar. A little lemon peel and einna- 1 egg, yolk only. mon. Mix the arrowroot with a little of the milk to a smooth paste and add to it the egg. Boil the remainder of the milk with the sugar and flavoring, and pour it boiling hot on the arrowroot, keeping it well stirred till nearly cold, when it may be set aside in custard glasses. This makes a nice after- noon dish. AUSTRIAN PUDDING 1 lb. flour. i lb. suet, chopped. A. pinch of salt. 1 tablespoonful sugar. 1 large teaspoonful baking- 1 breakfast cup of milk, powder. 1 breakfast cup of treacle. Mix the dry ingredients together, then warm the milk, stir it into the treacle, and add it to the pudding. Mix well and boil slowly but continuously in a well-buttered basin for three hours. BREAD FRITTERS 1 pt. milk. i lb. flour. 1 egg. Bread and jam. Make a batter with the milk, egg, and flour. Cut some slices of bread rather thin, in squares or three-cornered pieces, spread half of them with jam and cover with the other slices; dip them into the batter, and fry in boiling lard till of a light brown color. Serve very hot, piled on a dish, and sprinkled with white sugar. 214 PUDDINGS AND SAUCES BKEAD-AND-BUTTER PUDDING Four eggs well beaten, one ounce of lump sugar, one- quarter pound of currants, one quarter of a teaspoonful of salt. Butter a basin well, put in a sprinkle of currants all round, then a layer of bread-and-butter, and so on, until the basin or mould be nearly full, then add to the eggs a quart of milk with the sugar. Boil for an hour and a half gently. BETSY PUDDING One pint of milk, three ounces breadcrumbs, one egg, one tablespoonful of white sugar, jam. Spread a good layer of jam in the bottom of a pie-dish. Pour the milk nearly boiling on to the breadcrumbs; when cool stir in the egg, which should be beaten ; pour this gently on the preserve ; grate a little nutmeg over the top, and bake for half an hour. BACHELOR'S PUDDING One egg, with its weight in minced apple, flour, sugar, currants, breadcrumbs, suet. i\Iix these with the egg and add a little milk. Boil in a mould from one and a half to two hours. CARROT PUDDING i lb. grated breadcrumbs. ^ lb. sultanas. J lb. currants. 1 large tablespoonful treacle. I lb. suet. Grated rind of J lemon. i lb. flour. Mix well together with a little milk, and boil in a basin, or mould, for an hour and a half. PUDDINGS AND SAUCES 215 SPONGE PUDDING 1 oz. butter. | pt. milk. 1 oz. sugar. 3 eggs. 1 oz. flour. Scald the milk, and put the butter, sugar, flour, and yolks of eggs into it. Beat the whites stiff and stir in. Bake in a pan set in another pan of water, for about half an hour. Sauce. — One cup of sugar, one-half cup of butter, one-half cup boiling water, one-half cup wine and a little nutmeg. FRUIT PUDDING 1 cup molasses. | cup currants. 1 cup milk. 2| cups flour. 1 cup suet, chopped. Baking powder, salt, spices to 1 cup raisins. taste. Steam two hours in buttered mould. Serve with hard sauce (butter and sugar creamed together and hot water sparingly added to thin to desired consistency), flavored with vanilla or lemon. SUET PUDDING f lb. chopped suet (fine). 3 eggs (yolks of 3 and whites ■| cup seeded raisins, of 2 well beaten). (chopped). 3 tablespoonfuls flour. 3 tablespoonfuls moist A little nutmeg. sugar. A little salt. 1 teaspoonful baking soda. Boil for four hours or steam in basin. YORKSHIRE PUDDING Pint new milk, two eggs, five tablespoons flour, pinch of salt. Stir milk and flour to batter, put in salt, add well- beaten eggs. Have a shallow tin pan with lots of melted 216 PUDDINGS AND SAUCES dripping boiling hot. Pour in batter, bake half an hour in hot oven. English cooks set the cooked pudding under the roast and allow it to catch some of the dripping just before serving. CHEAP PLUM PUDDING Two cups of flour, one teaspoon of baking-powder, one- half teaspoon of cinnamon, one-half cup of suet, one-half cup raisins, one €gg, one-half cup molasses, one-half cup of milk. Steam three hours. CARAMEL PUDDING CUSTARD 6 eggs (yolks). 2 oz. castor sugar. 2 oz. sugar. Enough water to moisten I pt. cream. sugar. Put sugar and water into a mould and cook until sugar is of a dark color ; allow it to run all over the mould ; dip in cold water to set it; then pour in your custard; put into a saucepan with boiling water half way up the mould ; cook about twenty minutes; cover mould with a buttered paper, and put cover on saucepan while the custard is steaming. SMOTHERED FIG PUDDING 3 cups rich milk. 2 tablespoonfuls cornstarch. 1 cup sugar. Figs. 2 eggs, well beaten. Vanilla flavoring. Butter size of egg. Make custard in double boiler. Place a layer of finely cut up figs, then a layer of custard, and so on till dish is full. Set away till cool. Put whipped cream on top and serve. Preserved ginger used instead of the figs is also good. PUDDINGS AND SAUCES 217 PRUNE PUDDING One pound prunes, stew and remove the pits; whites of four eggs beaten very stiff, and three tablespoons white sugar. Put sugar and whites of eggs together; add prunes. Bake one-half hour. Serve with cream. ADA FORD'S PUDDING 1 cup melted butter. If teacupfuls flour. f cup sugar. 1^ teaspoonful baking powder. ^ cup milk (large). 1 cup jam. 2 eggs. Butter a mould, cover the bottom with jam, fill with batter, and steam one hour and a quarter. Serve with sauce. CHRISTMAS PUDDING 1 lb. suet. 1 lb. currants. 1 lb. raisins, 1 lb. sultanas. 1 lb. moist sugar. I pt. milk. ^ lb. flour (browned). Mix well and boil five hours. GRAHAM FLOUR PUDDING Two cups graham flour, one cup sweet milk, one cup of molasses, one cup of currants or raisins, one teaspoonful baking powder, one teaspoonful of salt. Put in a shape and boil or steam for three hours. Serve with foam sauce. FOAM SAUCE Half cup butter, one cup white sugar, one egg, six table- spoonfuls of milk, one wineglass of brandy. Beat the butter 1 nutmeg. 1 lb. grated breadcrumbs, i lb. citron. 1 4 lb. orange peel. i lb. lemon peel. 218 PUDDINGS AND SAUCES and sugar to a froth; add yolk of egg and milk. Set on a slow fire; add brandy and white of egg well beaten just before serving. PLAIN GINGEE PUDDING cup suet, cups flour, teaspoonful salt, large tablespoonfuls brown sugar, large tablespoonfuls mo- lasses. 2 teaspoonfuls baking pow- der. 1 large teaspoonful ground ginger. A small grating of nutmeg. ^ cup sweet milk. -J cup cold water. Line a melon mould with raisins, pour in the batter, and steam for two and one-half hours. ''GLENEDYTH" CHRISTMAS PUDDING 1^ lbs. breadcrumbs. 2 ^ lb. flour. 2 lbs. chopped suet. 2 2 lbs. raisins, chopped, 2 2 lbs. currants. 2 2 lbs. sugar. 18 eggs. 2 1 claret glass brandy. 2 1 wine glass maraschino. oz. almonds, blanched and sliced. oz. candied peel. oz. citron. oz. preserved ginger finely chopped. small nutmegs. limes, juice and finely chopped rind. teaspoonful salt. Mix all to a stiff paste, moistening with a little milk if necessary, but be careful, for milk will make the pudding heavy. The eggs and milk should be stirred into the ingre- dients after they have been thoroughly mixed together, and last of all the brandy and liqueur. This pudding will take ten hours to boil, and is large enough for a party of sixteen. Sauce. — Put ten yolks of eggs in a stew-pan, four ounces of sugar, one pint of milk. Stir over the fire in a "bain PUDDINGS AND SAUCES 219 marie" (double boiler) till a rich custard has been formed; add a claret glass of Noyeau; strain the sauce and serve hot. Instead of Noyeau three-quarters of a pint of Madeira may be used. SPONGE PUDDING 1^ tablespoonfuls butter. 6 eggs, whites and yolks 4 tablespoonfuls flour. beaten separately, 5 tablespoonfuls white sugar. 1 pt. sweet milk. Boil the sugar, flour and one pint of sweet milk together, then take off the fire and stir in butter. "When cool add the eggs well beaten. Bake one hour in a pan of water. Sauce for above. — Half pint wine and water, one cup sugar, one-half cup butter, one teaspoon flour, one egg, flavor with nutmeg. BRENTWOOD PUDDING 3 oz. breadcrumbs. Yolks of 3 eggs. 3 oz. butter. Juice of 2 lemons and grated 3 oz. sugar. rind of one. Line the dish with pastry, put a layer of jam at the bottom, over which pour the above mixture. Bake forty minutes. When it has been in the oven thirty minutes pour over it the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth. MAY'S PUDDING 1 qt. boiling water. 2 eggs, beaten separately. Juice of 1 lemon. 2 cups sugar. 4 tablespoonfuls cornstarch. Mix the cornstarch with a little cold water, add the lemon- juice. Have the water boiling on the fire ; put in the sugar and stir in the cornstarch. "Wlien it has well thickened add the whites of the eggs beaten very stiff. Stir well and pour into a mould. The yolks of the eggs can be used to make a 220 PUDDINGS AKB SAUCES custard, with one pint of milk and one small tablespoonful of cornstarch ; sugar to taste. Serve cold. RAISIN PUFF 2 eggs. 2 tablespoonfuls sugar. ^ cup butter. 1 cup raisins, chopped. 3 teaspoonfuls baking pow- 1 teacupful milk, der sifted in 2 cups flour. Steam one hour in an ordinary brown bread steamer. Serve with whipped cream or cold sauce. BANANA PUDDING I box gelatine. 1 cupful walnuts, chopped 6 small bananas. fine. 1 cup granulated sugar. 1 pt. milk. 1 small cupful preserved | pt. whipped cream, ginger, chopped. Soak the gelatine for fifteen minutes in a cupful of cold milk. Mash the bananas till smooth. Mix in the chopped ginger and walnuts, add the sugar. Pour the milk (boiling) on the gelatine, stir till dissolved, to which add the bananas, ginger, and walnuts. Set in a bowl in a can of crushed ice or cold water. Stir occasionally till the mixture begins to grow firm, then very gently fold in the whipped cream and pour into a mould which has been rubbed inside with sweet oil. When firm turn out and serve with whipped cream. CUSTARD PUDDING Take five ^.ablespoonfuls out of a quart of cream or rich milk, and mix them with two large spoonfuls of fine flour. Set the rest of the milk to boil, flavoring it with bitter almonds broken up. When it has boiled hard, take it off, strain it, PUDDINGS AND SAUCES 221 and stir it in the cold milk and flour. Set it away to cool, and beat well eight yolks and four whites of eggs ; add them to the milk, and stir in, at the last, a glass of brandy or white mne, a teaspoonful of powdered nutmeg, and half a cupful of sugar. Butter a large bowl or mould; pour in the mix- ture ; tie a cloth tightly over it ; put it into a pot of boiling water, and boil it two hours, replenishing the pot with hot water from a tea-kettle. When the pudding is done, let it get cool before you turn it out. Eat it with butter and sugar stirred together to a cream and flavored with lemon- juice or orange-juice. RICE PUDDING 1 teacupful rice. 1 teaspoonful of ground nut- 3 tablespoonfuls butter. meg. 5 tablespoonfuls sugar. Salt. 1 qt. cream. ^ lb. raisins, cut in halves. 1 glass wine. i lb. Zante currants. 5 eggs. i lb. citron cut in strips. Wash rice, and boil it in two teacupf uls of water ; then add, while the rice is hot, butter, sugar, eggs well beaten, nutmeg, a little salt, one glass of wine, raisins, currants, citron, and cream; mix well, pour into buttered dish and bake an hour in a moderate oven. RHUBARB, OR PIE-PLANT PUDDING Chop rhubarb pretty fine, put in a pudding-dish, and sprinkle sugar over it ; make a batter of one cupful of sour milk, two eggs, a piece of butter the size of an egg, half a teaspoonful of soda, and enough flour to make batter about as thick as for cake. Spread it over the rhubarb, and bake till done. Turn out on a platter upside down, so that the rhubarb will be on top. Serve with sugar and cream. 222 PUDDINGS AND SAUCES PRESERVE DUMPLINGS Preserved peaches, plums, quinces, cherries or any other sweetmeat; make a light crust, and roll a small piece of moderate thickness and fill with the fruit in quantity to make the size of a peach dumpling; tie each one in a dumpling cloth, well floured inside, drop them into hot water, and boil for half an hour; when done, remove the cloth, send to table hot, and eat with cream. FROZEN PUDDING 1 large pt. milk. Brandy. ^ cupful flour, scant. 1 qt. cream. 2 cupfuls sugar. 1 lb. preserved fruit. 2 eggs. 4 tablespoonfuls sherry wine. 2 tablespoonfuls gelatine. Soak gelatine in water two hours. Soak fruit in brandy. Cook milk, flour, eggs, gelatine and one cupful of sugar. When cool add cream, wine, and the other cup of sugar, and freeze, then add fruit, and pack in bricks. PUDDINGS A^^D SAUCES 223 WRITTEN RECIPES 224 PUDDINGS AND SAUCES WEITTEN EECIPES PUDDINGS AND SAUCES 225 WRITTEN RECIPES 226 PUDDINGS AND SAUCES WEITTEN RECIPES DESSERTS, CUSTARDS AND CREAMS The usual rule for custards is, eight eggs to a quart of milk; but a very good custard can be made of six, or even less, especially with the addition of a level tablespoonful of sifted flour, thoroughly blended in the sugar first, before adding the other ingredients. They may be baked, boiled or steamed, either in cups or one large dish. It improves custards to first boil the milk and then cool it before being used ; also a little salt adds to the flavor. A very small lump of butter may also be added, if one wants something espe- cially rich. To make custards look and taste better, ducks ' eggs should be used when obtainable; they add very much to the flavor and richness, and so many are not required as of ordinary eggs, four ducks' eggs to a pint of milk making a delicious custard. When desired extremely rich and good, cream should be substituted for the milk, and double the quantity of eggs used to those mentioned, omitting the whites. When making boiled custard, set the dish containing the custard into anothe!- and larger dish, partly filled with boil- {•ng water, placed o"ver the fire. Let the cream or milk come vilmost to a boil bef<; re adding the eggs or thickening, then stir it briskly one way every moment until smooth and well cooked ; it must not boil or it will curdle. To bake a custard, the fire should be moderate, and the dish well buttered. Everything in baked custard depends upon the regularly heated slow oven. If made with nicety, it is the most deli- cate of all sweets ; if cooked till it wheys, it is hardly eatable. Frozen eggs can be made quite as good as fresh ones if 227 228 DESSERTS, CUSTARDS A'NB CREAMS used as soon as thawed soft. Drop them into boiling water, letting them remain until the water is cold. They will be soft all through and beat up equal to those that have not been touched with the frost. Eggs should always be thoroughly well beaten, separately, the yolks first, then the sugar added; beat again, then add the beaten whites with the flavoring, then the cooled scalded milk. The lighter the eggs are beaten, the thicker and richer the custard. Eggs should always be broken into a cup, the whites and yolks separated, and they should always be strained. Break- ing the eggs thus, the bad ones may be easily rejected without spoiling the others, and so cause no waste. A meringue, or frosting for the top, requires about a tablespoonful of fine sugar to the beaten white of one egg; to be placed on the top after the custard or pudding is baked; smoothed over with a broad-bladed knife dipped in cold water, and replaced in the oven to brown slightly. SOFT CARAMEL CUSTARD One quart of milk, half a cupful of sugar, six eggs, half a teaspoonful of salt. Put the milk on to boil, reserving a cupful. Beat the eggs and add the cold milk to them. Stir the sugar in a small frying-pan until it becomes liquid and just begins to smoke. Stir it into the boiling milk ; then add the beaten eggs and cold milk, and stir constantly until the mixture begins to thicken. Set away to cool. Serve in glasses. RASPBERRY CREAM One-quarter pound white sugar, one-quarter pound rasp- berry jam, and the whites of four eggs beaten together for an hour. DESSERTS, CUSTARDS AND CREAIt-IS 229 A DAINTY DESSERT Line a glass bowl with slices of sponge cake or ladies' fingers, fill the bowl with sliced bananas; squeeze the juice and pulp from a quart of blackberries, sweeten it well, then pour it over the bananas; stand on ice until ice-cold, then cover with a deep layer of whipped cream and serve. PRUNE SHAPE One and one-half pounds of best prunes (or figs), stew with a little sugar till quite tender. Strain the liquid from them and take out the stones; one six-ounce packet of gela- tine, dissolved in one pint of cold water. Then add a small half pint of boiling water mixed with juice of prunes; add one cup sugar and a few drops of ratafia. Place the prunes round the mould and pour liquid over. Let it stand till quite cold. Blanched almonds are an improvement. AMBROSIA One pineapple chopped quite fine, one-half box straw- berries, six bananas sliced and the slices quartered, six oranges sliced and the slices quartered; one lemon cut fine; sweeten to taste. Add one wineglassful sherry and set aAvay until cold. SALTED ALMONDS Two pounds almonds, three tablespoonfuls best olive oil, one tablespoonful fine salt. Blanch almonds, pour oil over them, adding salt. Let them stand for an hour or two, stir- ring frequently. Then place in a pan large enough for the almonds to rest on the surface, not being crowded one on another. Place in an oven sufficiently slow to allow twenty minutes for the nuts to brown nicely, and shake the pan fre- quently that they may color evenly. 230 DESSERTS, CUSTARDS AND CREAMS PEACH MELBA 1 pt. milk. Peaches or pearg. Yolks of 5 eggs. Kaspberry syrup. Vanilla flavoring. Make the custard with milk and eggs, vanilla essence to taste; make this custard into an ice. AVhen ready for the melba, take the ice out of the freezing machine and place in rather a deep dish ; then put peaches or pears on the top of the ice, then pour raspberry syrup over the whole and serve. To make the raspberry syrup, take a small jar of raspberry jam and pass through a fine sieve. Then take a very small bottle of raspberry syrup and well mix with the jam as the syrup alone is not thick enough. We always use raspberry and red currant mixed, which can be obtained at the grocers, also tinned peaches and pears would do nicely. APPLE CHARLOTTE 1 pt. stewed apples. -5 box gelatine. 1 cup sugar. 3 eggs (whites). Juice and rind of 1 lemon. Mix apples with one cup sugar ; the grated rind and juice of lemon. Soak gelatine in one-third of a cup of cold water twenty minutes ; add one-third of a cup of boiling water to dissolve the gelatine ; when cool add it to the apples. When beginning to stiffen, add the beaten whites of three eggs; pour into moulds lined with lady fingers. Serve with soft custard poured round the base of the charlotte. POACHED APRICOTS Upon some slices of sponge cake place halves of apricots (the round sides uppermost), and whip the whites of two or three eggs to a snow frost with sugar. Place this around DESSERTS, CUSTARDS AXD CREAMS 231 the apricot halves so as to make them resemble poached eggs. Whipped cream, if obtainable, is even better than the meringue. A little of the apricot juice should be added as flavoring. STRAWBERRY MOULD Line a mould with nicely flavored lemon jelly. Then put in a layer of strawberries, freed from their stalks and cut in halves. Setting this layer with a little more jelly, have a smaller mould the same shape as the first ; stand it in the centre of the larger mould (failing a mould use a small, round tin or jam pot), and fill up the outer circumference with alternate layers of the strawberries and lemon jelly. Place the mould on ice to set, and meanwhile whip half a pint of cream to a stiff froth, adding about one-quarter of an ounce of best leaf gelatine, dissolved in a very little water or milk, and very gradually add to this a cupful of straw- berry pulp (obtained by mashing fruit through sieve), sweet- ened to taste. When the jelly is set, remove the inner mould by pouring a little warm water into it and lifting out as quickly as possible. Then fill up the space thus left with the whipped cream and strawberry pulp, and put the mould back on the ice for an hour or two, when it can be turned out and served with cream. CRANBERRY JEILY To one quart of cranberries add one scant cupful of water, and cook until the berries are tender. Remove from the fire and strain through a fine sieve. Return the juice to the saucepan, add two cupfuls of sugar, and cook just long enough to thoroughly melt the sugar. When cool, put in a mould and pack in ice for an hour, and serve in sherbet glasses. STIFF CRAiTBERRY JELLY To each pound of berries add one pint of water, and boil half an hour, stirring gently and skimming. Strain well, 232 DESSERTS, CUSTARDS AND CREAMS and to each pint of juice add one pound of sugar (granu- lated). Boil again until it jellies. CHOCOLATE CREAM 6 oz. chocolate, grated. 6 oz. sugar. 1 pt. cream. Yolks of 6 eggs. 2 oz. gelatine. Grate finely six ounces chocolate; put chocolate into a saucepan with cream, sugar, and yolks of eggs. Stir over fire until it thickens, run through sieve; add dissolved gelatine. Mix and fill mould and place on ice. CHARLOTTE RUSSE One pint cream, one-quarter cup sugar, whites of two eggs, one teaspoonful granulated gelatine. Dissolve gelatine in as little boiling water as possible, whip cream and beat eggs very light ; add all together and pour into mould lined with lady fingers. ITALIAN CREAM For two moulds: Three cups of cream and one cup of milk whipped stiff; one box of gelatine sweetened to taste. Put the sugar with the gelatine when it is hot. Flavor with vanilla ; stir till it thickens, then mould. APPLE PORCUPINE Pare and core the apples. Make a syrup by boiling sugar and water in equal proportions. As soon as the fruit is pared, before it is discolored by standing, immerse it in the syrup and cook until it is easily pierced with a straw. Then draw the apples from the liquid and ornament the sides of each by piercing them with blanched almonds. Fill the cavi- ties with jelly, preserved fruit or marmalade and serve hot or cold with cream. With the remaining sj^rup and the skins and cores, apple jelly may be made. DESSERTS, CUSTARDS AND CREAMS 233 PINEAPPLE CREAM 4 eggs, f oz. gelatine. ^ pt. milk. 3 oz. sugar. ^ pt. double cream Take the pineapple and trim well, cut in half, cut one-half in dice, the other half pound in a mortar and pass through a hair sieve. Whip the cream, add the juice of pine, also the dice of pine ; dissolve the gelatine in a gill of the pineapple syrup, add sugar; when cold add cream, and pour it into a decorated mould and set on ice. GATEAUX AUX PRUNES 1 lb. prunes. 1 glass brandy. 3 oz. sugar. 1 pt. water. f oz. gelatine. A few drops cochineal. Juice and rind of 1 lemon. Boil the prunes in the water and sugar until quite soft* then take them out and take the stones out, crack the kernels, add them with the brandy, lemon juice and peel, a little cochineal and the gelatine dissolved in a little water. Boil all for twenty minutes. Pour into a border mould. When set, turn out, and serve with whipped cream in the centre. CREME A LA DUCHESSE A very rich custard, stiffened with one ounce gelatine and flavored with two ounces of powdered baked almonds and a gill of whipped cream. Stir into this some crystallized apri- cots and ginger cut up small ; pour the mixture into a mould and pack in ice. Prepare some syrup, flavored with wine colored with a little carmine; set in the ice till cold, when turned out. 234 DESSEKTS, CUSTARDS AND CREAMS SHEREY FLIP 1 pt. cream. Juice of 2 lemons. 2 doz. almonds. Sugar to taste. 3 glasses sherry. Blanch and chop the almonds and put them into a jug "vvith the cream. In another jug put the sherry, lemon- juice and enough sugar to sweeten the whole nicely. Pour rapidly from one jug to the other till the mixture is well frothed; then pour it into individual glasses. This is sufficient to fill twelve ordinary custard glasses. CHOCOLATE CEJEAM I lb. chocolate. 4 eggs. 1 pt. milk. 4 tablespoonfuls sugar. Melt chocolate. Heat one pint milk; add yolks of eggs, and sugar ; stir until creamy ; add the chocolate. It must not boil. Strong coffee, vanilla, may be used in the same way, as flavoring to the cream. APPLES A LA PRINCESS MAUDE Peel one and a half pounds of good cooking apples, cut them up and cook them in three-quarters of a pint of water with four to six ounces of loaf sugar, according to the sweet- ness of the apples, and bay-leaves, and the finely cut peel of one lemon. When the apples are perfectly soft, dissolve with them three-quarters of an ounce of leaf gelatine and pass the whole through a sieve; divide the puree into two parts, and redden one of them with liquid carmine, and whiten the other with a little thick cream, and put them in separate sauce pans to about a quarter of an inch thick, and let them set. Put the pans on broken ice if you have any. When the puree is set cut out in rounds with a plain cutter DESSERTS, CUSTARDS AND CREAJVIS 235 about the size of a shilling for ornamenting round the mould, and in leaf shapes for the bottom and in the centre of each of the rounds set a little round of angelica with a little liquid jelly. Line a plain round mould with lemon jelly to about one-eighth of an inch thick ; set the cut leaves of apple puree regularly on the bottom of the mould with the stock ends at the centre and the rounds regularly round the sides in alter- nate colors; fix these in their places with a little more of the lemon jelly and fill up the centre with the following cream, viz. : Separately dissolve the odds and ends of the cuttings of the puree with two tablespoonfuls of lemon jelly, and let them stand till somewhat cool ; then add to each a quarter of a pint of thickly whipped cream and pour them into the mould in alternate layers and put to set on broken ice ; when required turn out on a dish ; place on the top a ball of stiffly whipped cream sweetened and flavored with vanilla essence, and lightly sprinkle with a little chopped pistachio nuts. BANANAS Slice and pour over them a little white wine, leave them to soak for two hours. Cover with custard made as for choco- late cream, without flavoring. FRIED BANANAS Strip off the skins; cut each banana into three slices, and flour well. Saute in hot butter in a frying-pan, or fry in deep fat. Drain dry and serve hot. Or, roll in egg, then in cracker dust ; set on ice for one hour and fry in hot, deep cottolene. BANANA CROaUETTES For this purpose select small, yellow bananas; strip off the skins and cut off the ends, so as to make them look like croquettes; pepper and salt, roll in egg, then in cracker- 236 DESSERTS, CUSTARDS AND CREAMS crumbs, set on the ice for one hour to stiffen them, and fry in hot, deep cottolene to a golden brown. Serve dry and hot. They should accompany chicken or lamb, being a deli- cate yet piquante vegetable, and unfit to attend roast beef or other heavy meats. SPANISH CREAM 1 pt. new milk, 4 eggs (whites and yolks 1 box gelatine, beaten separately). ^ lb. white sugar. 2 teaspoonfuls vanilla and a little almond extract. Soak gelatine in a little water till very soft. Boil the milk, stir in gelatine, then sugar, then the well-beaten yolks ; stir well, and let the mixture thicken ; put in flavoring and boil till the mixture separates, then take from the fire, beat in the whites (previously beaten stiff) ; stir lightly together and pour into a mould. This quantity is sufficient for one quart. MAPLE PAEFAIT Beat the yolks of ten eggs very light, and add a large cup- ful of maple syrup. Put it over the fire, stir till it thickens, then take off and beat till cold. Add quickly a quart of cream beaten till it is perfectly stiff, and pour into a two- quart melon mould. Pack in ice and salt for five or six hours. STRAWBERRY SHERBET One pint of berries, one pint of granulated sugar, one pint of water, juice of two lemons, one tablespoonful of gelatine. Dissolve the gelatine in the water; add berries and sugar, and last of all the lemon juice. Stir lightly and freeze. LEMON SHERBET One quart of fresh milk, three cups of sugar, three lemons. Grate a very little of the rind of one of the lemons, add the , DESSERTS, CUSTARDS AND CREAMS 237 strained juice of all the lemons and the sugar to the miljk and freeze at once. CRANBERRY FRAPPE One quart of cranberries, one quart of water, boiled five or six minutes, strain through a coarse cheese cloth, add one pint of sugar and stir and boil until sugar is dissolved ; when cold add juice of two lemons strained. Freeze to a mush, using equal parts of ice and salt. Serve in glass cups. To be eaten with turkey. MUSCAT SHERBET 1 cup sugar. 2 eggs (whites). 1 tablespoonful gelatine. 2 tablespoonfuls powdered Juice of 4 lemons. sugar. Grated rind 1 lemon. Green coloring. 1 cup sherry. Dissolve one cupful of sugar in one pint of boiling water, take from the fire and add gelatine which has been soaked until soft in half a cupful of water ; add the juice of lemons and the grated rind ; let stand for half an hour, then strain. Add sherry and three cupfuls of cold water and color green, remembering that freezing lessens all colors, and it is to be a pretty pale green when served. Turn into the freezer, when half frozen, add meringue made by beating together the whites of eggs and powdered sugar until stiff and glassy. Finish the freezing, pack and set away until serving time. CAFE MOUSSE Mix well together one pint of thick cream, three table- spoonfuls of powdered sugar, one teaspoonful of vanilla and one-third of a cup of very strong coffee, chill thoroughly, then whip, setting the bowl in a pan of ice water. Take off 238 DESSERTS, CUSTARDS AND CREAMS the froth as it rises and lay on a sieve. When no more froth will rise turn the drowned whip carefully into a mould, cover lightly, binding the edges with a strip of muslin dipped in melted butter ; bury in ice and salt as for freezing, let stand for two or three hours ; wipe off the mould and turn out on a serving dish. CHARLOTTE RUSSE 1 pt. cream, whipped stiff. Whites of 2 eggs. ^ oz. gelatine. 1 teacupful powdered sugar. I pt. milk. Flavor to taste. Dissolve gelatine in one-quarter pint of hot milk. Fasten lady fingers with icing, mix cream, whites of eggs and sugar together, add gelatine last, a little at a time. Beat quickly with a spoon. TRIFLE 4 tablespoonfuls sherry wine. 1 doz. lady fingers. 4 tablespoonfuls brandy. 1 teaspoonful vanilla. Strawberry or raspberry jam. ^ teacup seeded raisins. 1 qt. cream. ^ cupful chopped, blanched, ^ lb. macaroons. almonds. Any kind of stale cake sponge or pound cake preferred. In a dish put first a layer of cake, then a little brandy, then jam, then cake, wine, raisins and nuts, also a little cream whipped; begin again as before, then add a few macaroons and make a wall of lady fingers. After all the cake, wine and raisins are used, over the top put plenty of whipped cream (stiff). This recipe makes enough trifle for about twenty people. PINEAPPLE CREAM Whip one pint of cream to a stiff froth, add a large cup of sugar, one-half box gelatine soaked in a cup of milk for one hour; a tiny pinch of salt is an improvement. Scrape one DESSERTS, CUSTARDS AND CREMIS 239 pineapple with a silver fork until it is in fine shreds, and add it to the cream (or one can of pineapple). Set mould on ice to stiffen. ICE CEEAM 1 qt. milk. 2 cups sugar. 2 tablespoonfuls cornstarch. Vanilla flavoring to taste. Put milk on to boil, dissolve cornstarch in two tablespoons of cold milk, stir into boiling milk ; cook five minutes, strain, add sugar, flavor to taste. When perfectly cold, freeze. An excellent recipe that never fails, LEMON WATEE ICE, OE OEANGE Four large juicy lemons, one quart water, one orange, one and one-quarter pounds sugar. Put sugar and water on to boil; chip yellow rind from three lemons and the orange, add to the syrup ; boil five minutes and stand to cool ; squeeze juice from lemons and orange ; add to cold syrup, strain and freeze. Just before removing dash, add white of one egg beaten very stiff with one tablespoon sugar, to make white and frothy. Have used this a dozen times. CIJSTAED SOUFELE 2 scant tablespoonfuls butter. 4 eggs. 2 tablespoonfuls flour. 2 tablespoonfuls sugar. 1 cup milk. Eub butter to a cream, add flour, and pour on gradually one cup of hot milk. Cook eight minutes in double boiler, stirring often. Separate yolks and whites of eggs, and put whites on ice. Beat yolks, add sugar, and add to the milk, and set away to cool. Half an hour before serving beat the whites stiff, and cut them in lightly. Bake in buttered pud- ding dish in moderate oven thirty minutes, and serve at once with creamy sauce. 240 DESSEKTS, CUSTARDS AND CREAMS CARAMEL CUSTARD One-half cup sugar, two tablespoonfuls water, one quart milk, six eggs, one-half teaspoonful salt, one teaspoonful vanilla. Put sugar in pan, and stir until it melts and is light brown; add the water, and stir into the warm milk. Beat eggs lightly, add salt and vanilla and part of the milk. Strain into the remainder of the milk, and pour into a but- tered two-quart mould. Set the mould in a pan of warm water, and bake from thirty to forty minutes, or till firm. Serve with cream and fruit sugar. STONE CREAM Put some preserve, strawberry, raspberry or peach, into a glass dish with three large tablespoonfuls of lemon juice on the top, then boil a pint of cream with three-quarters of an ounce of isinglass dissolved in a very little warm milk ; add wine and loaf sugar; when new milk warm, keep moving it round on the sweetmeats on the dish ; it is best made the day before it is wanted. When quite cold cut some blanched almonds lengthwise and stick them all over it. LEMON TRIFLE 2 lemons (juice). 1 pt. cream sweetened and Grated rind of 1 lemon. whipped stiff. 1 cupful sherry. A little nutmeg. 1 large cup of sugar. Strain the lemon juice over the sugar and grated peel, and let them lie together two hours before adding the wine and nutmeg. Strain again and whip gradually into the frothed cream. Serve in jelly glasses. It should be eaten soon after it is made. DESSERTS, CUSTARDS AND CREAMS 241 FIG TRIFLE 6 figs. 1 glass liquor. 3 oz. shelled walnuts. 1 dessertspoonful sugar. i pt. cream. Cut the figs with a sharp knife into fine dice, chop the walnuts coarsely, whip the cream, sweeten with sugar to taste, then lightly stir in the figs and walnuts; flavor with the liqueur and serve in custard glasses. LEMON WATEE ICE One quart of water boiled with pared rind of two lemons (avoiding white part), two and one-half cups sugar or more (very sweet), one tablespoon (not heaping) of cornstarch, juice of five lemons. Strain and freeze; should stand one hour before using. APPLE SNOW Pare, core and slice six or eight tart, juicy apples; stew them in a little water until soft enough to press through a colander ; sweeten to suit the taste and turn into a deep glass dish ; let the apples get cold and then cover with a soft cus- tard made with a pint of milk, the yolks of three eggs and sugar to sweeten. Flavor with lemon or orange, and when cold pour over the apples. Whip the whites to a stiff froth with three heaping tablespoons of powdered sugar and heap lightly over the custard. MAPLE MOUND One cup of maple syrup, one pint of cream, yolks of four eggs. Boil syrup five minutes; remove from stove and add beaten yolks of eggs ; when cold stir in cream, which has been whipped. Pour into mould and pack in ice and salt for three hours. 242 DESSERTS, CUSTARDS AND CREAMS TEIFLE Sponge cake, soaked in sherry wine; chopped figs and a pint of almond custard, large cup of strawberry jam, one pint of cream, whipped, for top. GINGER CREAM Cut four ounces of prepared ginger in dice; put one ounce of gelatine into a saucepan with a pint of milk and four tablespoonfuls of sugar. Let it boil slowly, stirring all the time till the gelatine is dissolved, then add ginger. "When cool add one pint of whipped cream. Pour in damp- ened mould to form. PIiraAPPLE CREAM One can of pineapple (grated), three ounces of loaf sugar, half a pint of water, three-quarters of an ounce of gelatine, one and a half pints of cream. Drain syrup from pineapple and put in half a pint of water and sugar in sauce-pan. When dissolved add fruit, boiling ten minutes, then add gelatine and boil ten minutes longer. When entirely cold add the cream, well whipped, and pour in moulds. RUSSIAN CREAM 1 box gelatine. | cups sugar. 1 qt. milk. 4 eggs. Soak gelatine in cup of milk, add to rest of milk, heated. Add yolks of eggs and sugar. Cook until smooth. Eemove from stove and add whites of eggs. Pour in mould to cool. SAUCE Three eggs, three ounces sugar, half pint of whipped cream measured after being whipped, half glass of chartreuse ; whip eggs and sugar over boiling water for ten minutes; then remove and whip until cold, then add cream and chartreuse. DESSERTS, CUSTARDS AND CREAMS 243 SOUFFLE 2 oz. butter. 1 teaspoonful vanilla. 2| oz. flour, 2 oz. chocolate. Yolks of 4 eggs. 2 oz. sugar. Whites of 6 eggs. 1 gill cream. Melt butter and flour, then add cream ; cook two minutes ; add chocolate and stir till melted. Remove from fire and let cool, then add yolks and, just before steaming, add whites stiffly beaten ; fold them in gently ; steam one hour and a half. Steam in mould placed in saucepan of hot water; let water come half way up mould ; put mould in bottom of saucepan and cover with a greased paper, and then cover saucepan. Do not let water boil. LEMON SHERBET Six lemons, four eggs (the whites), two pints sugar. Make a thick syrup of one pint sugar and about one pint water; when cold, thin with the juice of six lemons, and water enough to make it a rich lemonade. When it is half frozen add boiled icing, made as follows: One pint sugar moistened with water, and boiled until it is a soft candy; whilst hot add the stiff beaten whites of four eggs. Flavor with vanilla and a little citric acid or cream tartar, and beat hard until thick and smooth, and add to the half frozen lemonade. WINE JELLY 1 box gelatine. 2 eggs. 1 pt. cold water. 1 pt. hot water. 1 cup sugar. ^ cup wine. 2 lemons. Wine glass whisky. Soak gelatine for several hours in pint of cold water, grate the rinds of lemons, add with the juice of the lemons the 244 DESSERTS, CUSTARDS AND CREAMS whites and shells of two eggs, hot water (not boiling), wine, whisky, some cinnamon and sugar and let all boil ; skim and strain through flannel bag, add large cup sugar and remain- der of wine and put in mould to cool. LEMON JELLY 1 box gelatine. 1 pt. sugar. 1 pt. hot water. 2 lemons, juice and rind, I pt. wine. Whites 3 eggs. Soak gelatine for one hour in a pint of cold water, then add hot water, wine, sugar, lemons, juice and thinly pared rind. Boil for one-half a minute and strain. This with wine left out. AVhites of three eggs (beaten to a stiff froth and stirred in before quite cold), and put in mould. FRUIT JELLY 1 box gelatine. 1^ pts. boiling water. 1 cup sugar. Fruits: 2 lemons. Peaches, bananas, oranges, •| pt. cold water. sliced. Dissolve gelatine in one-half pint cold water, add sugar and lemon juice, with boiling water. Let this stand until the jelly begins to thicken, then pour a little into the mould: place on it a layer of peaches, cut any shape desired. Put in more jelly and fruit, alternately until the mould is filled. Place on ice to set and serve with whipped cream. Care should be taken to allow each layer of fruit and jelly to set before putting in another, so that the fruit will not fall to- gether. PRUNE JELLY One pint of prunes, half a box of gelatine, sugar to taste, and a pinch of salt. "Wash the prunes, then boil slowly till DESSERTS, CUSTARDS AND CREAMS 245 soft in sufficient water to cover. Take out the stones, sweeten to taste ; add essence of vanilla, or if preferred the juice and rind of a lemon, and the juice of two oranges. Soak the gelatine till soft, then add the above, stir all well together, and pour into a mould and let stand till it is very cold. PRUNE JELLY 1 lb. prunes. 1 orange. 1 lb. sugar. 1 lemon. 1 oz. gelatine. Whipped cream. One pound of prunes, well washed, then covered with water and allowed to soak for six hours. Put on to boil in same water until tender; add sugar, and boil ten minutest- strain and remove stones. Take gelatine soaked in one cup of water. Put on stove juice from prunes equal to two and a half cupfuls ; add juice of lemon and orange. When this commences to boil add gelatine and prunes. Turn into mould and serve when cold with whipped cream. PRUNE JELLY One pound of stewing prunes, wash well and leave them to soak about an hour. In the meantime put half a package of gelatine to soak, then take the prunes and put them on a saucepan on the fire, well covered with water and about half a cupful of sugar. Boil for about an hour. Strain the juice from the prunes, then add the gelatine to the juice and put on the fire to boil up. Cover the prunes with the juice and gelatine mixed, put in hot in a mould and leave till cold. Serve with whipped cream. APPLE SPONGE 1 lb, apples. Juice of 2 lemons. ^ oz. gelatine. Rind of 1 lemon, 1 lb. sugar. ^ pt. boiling water. 246 DESSERTS, CUSTARDS AND CREAMS Boil the water and sugar iu a saucepan until dissolved. Peel and slice the apples thinly, and add to the syrup, and stew until tender. Add gelatine, and strain all through a sieve; add lemon juice and rind and beat until cool. Beat the whites of three eggs stiffly and add to the mixture, and beat all until cold. Put into a mould; serve with custard, COMPOTE OF CHESTNUTS (FRANCATEILI) 50 chestnuts. 3 oranges. 1 qt. milk and water. ^ pt. cream. 12 oz. sugar. Maraschino. Oranges quartered and soaked in maraschino, "Whipped cream. Remove husks and skin from the chestnuts, and boil gently in the milk and water until like floury potatoes, and strain them. Boil the sugar until it purls on the surface and flavor with vanilla bean ; add the chestnuts and work all together vigorously, and rub through a potato masher on to a dish. Pile up whipped cream in the centre of a dish, and gently strew the chestnuts on top of the cream in a conical form; garnish with orange quarters at the base of the cream and nuts, PRINCE OF WALES DESSERT Take sponge cakes, stale preferred ; dip in sherry or syrup and line a mould with them. Take three-quarters pound cornflour, one ounce arrowroot, and mix together; add one pint boiling milk and cook a few minutes; add one tea- spoon vanilla and pour this into the lined basin, "When cold turn out. Put a large spoonful of red currant jelly on the top, and sprinkle well with chopped pistachio nuts. This may be varied by putting the cakes soaked in raspberry juice or wine in a glass dish; fill as above over the top of this. "When cold spread whipped cream; decorate with cherries DESSERTS, CUSTARDS AND CREAMS 247 and chopped citron peel. Serve very cold and in the glass dish in which it was made. The latter looks very pretty when complete. CARAMEL CUSTAKD One quart milk, 3'oUvhip better. Not a speck of the yolk must get into the whites :which are to be whipped. Fold the whipped whites into any mixture rather than stir them in, as the latter method breaks the air cells. Break eggs one at a time into a saucer, so any can be re- jected if necessary and the mixture not be spoiled. Add a tablespoonful of water to an egg used for crumb- ing in order to remove the stringiness. Use a double boiler for milk. Milk is scalded when the water in the lower pan boils. A pinch of bi-carbonate of soda mixed with tomato before milk or cream is added prevents the milk from curdling. "With sour milk, or molasses, use soda instead of baking powder. Milk and butter should be kept in closely covered vessels, as they readily absorb flavor and odor from other articles. Butter added slowly in small bits to creamy mixtures, or sauces, prevents a greasy line forming. MISCELLANEOUS 487 Crumbs grated directly from the loaf gives ai more deli- cate color than dried crumbs to fried articles. Dried crumbs absorb more moisture, and are better for watery dishes. Crumbs spread over the tops of dishes should be mixed evenly with melted butter over the fire; this is a better method than having lumps of butter dotted over the crumbs after they are spread. When the sauce bubbles through the crumbs on top of a scallop dish, the cooking is completed. Meat should not be washed. It can be cleaned by rub- bing with a wet cloth, or by scraping with a knife. Drippings are better than water for basting meats. Meats should not be pierced while cooking. Soak salt fish with the skin side up over night. Change the water several times. To skim sauces, draw the saucepan to the side of the fire, throw in a teaspoonful of cold water, and the grease will rise so that it can be easily taken off. A few drops of onion juice improve made-over meat dishes ; not enough need be used to give a pronounced onion flavor. The skimming from soups, drippings from any beef roasts, and trimmings from any beef, serve the same uses as lard, cottolene, or butter. To extract onion juice, press the raw surface of an onion against a grater, move it slightly, and the juice will run off the point of the gi'ater. Chop suet in a cool place, and sprinkle it with flour to prevent its oiling and sticking together. Remove the mem- brane before chopping it. Add a few drops of rose-water to almonds to prevent their oiling when chopped or pounded. To loosen grated peel, or other articles, from the grater, strike the grater sharply on the table. 488 MISCELLANEOUS When mixing a liquid with a solid material, add but little liquid at a time and stir constantly to prevent lumping. When adding cornstarch, arrowroot, or any starchy ma- terial to hot liquid, first mix it with enough cold water, or milk, to make it fluid ; pour it in slowly and stir constantly until it becomes clear. Soak gelatine in a cool place for an hour in cold water or milk. It will then quickly dissolve in hot liquid and have no odor. If jellied dishes do not stiffen, add more gelatine; boiling down will not effect the purpose. Grease moulds evenly with butter or oil, using a brush. Lumps of butter on the side of moulds leave an uneven sur- face on the article cooked or moulded in them. Moulds for jellies are not greased. Invert a dish over a mould before turning it, so that the form will not break; also, place it in exactly the right spot before lifting off the mould. It is desirable to pass all liquid mixtures through a strainer to make them perfectly smooth. To keep dishes w^arm until time for serving, place the saucepan in a pan of hot water. Any flavoring is added after the mixture is cooked, ex- cepting for baked dishes. Wine increases the taste of salt, therefore, where wine is used for flavoring, very little salt should be put in until after the wine is used, when more can be added if necessary. Dishes which are to be frozen need an extra amount of sweetening. Flour raisins before adding them to a mixture in order to prevent their settling to the bottom. Never slam the oven door, or jar any rising material while it is baking. Anything being cooked for the second time needs a hot oven. MISCELLANEOUS 489 WRITTEN RECIPES 490 MISCELLANEOUS WRITTEN EECIPES MISCELLANEOUS 491 WRITTEN RECIPES 492 MISCELLANEOUS WBITTEN RECIPES DISHES FOR THE SICK Dishes for invalids should be served in the daintiest and most attractive way ; never send more than a supply for one meal ; the same dish too frequently set before an invalid often causes a distaste, when perhaps a change would tempt the appetite. When preparing dishes where milk is used, the condition of the patient should be considered. Long cooking hardens the albumen and makes the milk very constipating ; then, if the patient should be already constipated, care should be taken not to heat the milk above the boiling point. The seasoning of food for the sick should be varied oc- cording to the condition of the patient ; one recovering from illness can partake of a little piece of roast mutton, chicken, rabbit, game, fish, simply dressed, and simple puddings are all light food and easily digested. A mutton chop, nicely cut, trimmed and broiled, is a dish that is often inviting to an invalid. As a rule, an invalid will be more likely to enjoy any preparation sent to him if it is served in small, delicate pieces. As there are so many small, dainty dishes that can be made for this purpose, it seems useless to try to more than give a small variety of them. Puddings can be made of pre- pared barley, or tapioca, well soaked before boiling, with an egg added, and a change can be made of light puddings by mixing up some stewed fruit with the puddings before baking; a bread pudding from stale bread-crumbs, and a tiny cup-custard, boiled in a small basin or cup ; also various drinks, such as milk punch, wine, whey, apple-toddy, and various other nourishing drinks. 493 494 FOR THE SICK BEEFSTEAK AND MUTTON CHOPS Select the tenderest cuts, and broil over a clear, hot fire. Let the steak be rare, the chops well done. Salt and pepper ; lay between two hot plates three minutes, and serve to your patient. If he is very weak, do not let him swallow anything except the juice, when he has chewed the meat well. The essence of rare beef roasted or broiled, thus expressed, is con- sidered by some physicians to be more strengthening than beef-tea prepared in the usual manner. BEEF TEA One pound of lean beef, cut into small pieces. Put into a glass canning-jar without a drop of water; cover tightly, and set in a pot of cold water. Heat gradually to a boil, and continue this steadily for three or four hours, until the meat is like white rags, and the juice all drawn out. Season- with salt to taste, and when cold, skim. VEAL OR MUTTON BROTH Take a scrag-end of mutton (two pounds), put it in a saucepan, with two quarts of cold water, and an ounce of pearl barley or rice. When it is coming to a boil, skim it well, then add half a teaspoonful of salt ; let it boil until half reduced, then strain it, and take off all the fat, and it is ready for use. This is excellent for an invalid. If vege- tables are liked in this broth, take one turnip, one carrot, and one onion, cut them in shreds, and boil them in the broth half an hour. In that case, the barley may be served with the vegetables in broth. OATMEAL GRUEL Put four tablespoonfuls of the best grits (oatmeal coarsely ground) into a pint of boiling water. Let it boil gently and FOR THE SICK 495 stir it often, till it becomes as thick as you wish it. Then strain it, and add to it while warm, butter, wine, nutmeg, or whatever is thought proper to flavor it. Salt to taste. If you make the gruel of fine oatmeal, sift it, mix it first to a thick batter with a little cold water, and then put it into the sauce-pan of boiling water. Stir it all the time it is boiling, lifting the spoon gently up and down, and letting the gruel fall slowly back again into the pan. ORAN&E ALBUMEN Juice of half an orange, white of an egg, tablespoonful of water, sugar to sweeten; strained through muslin; lemon can be used. CALVES-FOOT JELLY 4 calves' feet. 1 stick of cinnamon. ^ box. gelatine. Sugar to taste. Juice of 3 lemons. Whites 4 eggs. Grated rind of 1 lemon. 1 pt. sherry. Four calves' feet. Get the butcher to clean them thoroughly and remove the hoof-horns. If not sufficiently white, pour boiling water over them and scrape with a knife. Divide each foot in half; place over the fire in a preserving pan, three parts full of cold water, adding a pinch of salt. Boil till the meat comes to shreds, adding water occasionally, and the bones separate easily. Strain, set aside to cool (the liquid should measure about two quarts). When cool skim off every particle of fat, rejecting the sediment beneath the jelly. Add one-third of a box of gelatine dissolved in the boiling stock; take off the fire, add the juice of three lemons and grated rind of one, a stick of cinnamon, and sugar to taste. Beat up with these the whites of four eggs and broken shells slightly beaten, set on the fire again and boil a few minutes till a thick scum rises to the top. Set the 496 FOR THE SICK pan on the back of the stove one minute, then pour slowly through a flannel jelly bag, returning till the jelly is clear. When finished add a pint of sherry. The bag should be suspended in front of the oven and not moved, or the jelly will be cloudy. Cold air must be excluded. EGG GRUEL Beat the yolk of an egg with one tablespoonful of sugar; pour one teacupful of boiling water on it ; add the white of an egg, beaten to a froth, with any seasoning or spice de- sired. Take warm. MILK PORRIDGE The same as arrovn^oot, excepting it should be all milk, and thickened with a scant tablespoonful of sifted flour; let it boil five minutes, stirring it constantly, add a little cold milk, and give it one boil up, and it is ready for use. ARROWROOT MILK PORRIDGE 1 large cup new milk. 1 teaspoonful arrowroot. 1 cup boiling water. A pinch of salt. 1 teaspoonful sugar. Put the sugar into the milk, the salt into the boiling water, which should be poured into a farina-kettle. Add the arrow- root, make into paste with cold water, and boil, stirring con- stantly until it is clear; put in the milk, and cook ten minutes, stirring often. Give while warm, adding hot milk should it be thicker than gruel. SLIPPERY-ELM BARK TEA Break the bark into bits, pour boiling water over it, cover, and let it infuse until cold. Sweeten, ice, and take for sum- mer disorders, or add lemon juice and drink for a bad cold. FOR THE SICK 497 FLAX-SEED LEMONADE To a large tablespoonful of flax-seed, allow a tumbler and a half of cold water. Boil them together till the liquid becomes very sticky. Then strain it hot over a quarter of a pound of pulverized sugar, and an ounce of pulverized gum arable. Stir it till quite dissolved, and squeeze into it the juice of a lemon. This mixture has frequently been found an efficacious remedy for a cold, taking a wine-glass of it as often as the cough is troublesome. HOMINY Put to soak one pint of hominy in two and one-half pints of boiling water over night, in a tin vessel with a tight cover; in the morning add one-half pint of sweet milk, and a little salt. Place on a brisk fire in a kettle of boiling water, the tin vessel containing the hominy; let boil one-half hour. Cracked wheat, oatmeal, mush, are all good food for the sick. CHICKEN JELLY Cook a chicken in enough water to little more than cover it; let it stew gently until the meat drops from the bones, and the broth is reduced to about a pint ; season it to taste, with a little salt and pepper. Strain and press, first through a colander, then through a coarse cloth. Set it over the fire again, and cook a few minutes longer. Turn it into an earthen vegetable dish to harden ; set it on the ice in the re- frigerator. Eat cold in slices. Nice made into sandwiches, with thin slices of bread, lightly spread with butter. BOILED RICE Boil half a cupful of rice in just enough water to cover it, with half a teaspoonful of salt ; when the water has boiled nearly out and the rice begins to look soft and dry, turn over 498 FOR THE SICK it a cupful of milk, and let it simmer until the rice is done and nearly dry ; take from the fire and beat in a well-beaten egg. Eat it warm with cream and sugar. Flavor to taste. SOFT TOAST Toast well, but not too brown, tw^o thin slices of stale bread; put them on a warm plate, sprinkle with a pinch of salt and pour upon them some boiling water; quickly cover with another dish of the same size, and drain off the water. Put a very small bit of butter on the toast and serve at once while hot. EGG TOAST Brown a slice of bread nicely over the coals, dip it in hot water slightly salted, butter it, and lay on the top an egg that has been broken into boiling water, and cooked until the white has hardened ; season the egg with a bit of butter and a crumb of salt. The best way to cook eggs for an invalid is to drop them, or else pour boiling water over the egg in the shell and let it stand for a few minutes on the back of the stove. OYSTER TOAST Make a nice slice of dry toast, butter it and lay it on a hot dish. Put six oysters, half a teacupful of their own liquor, and half a cupful of milk, into a tin cup or basin, and boil one minute. Season with a little butter, pepper and salt, then pour over the toast and serve. MULLED JELLY Take one tablespoonful of currant or grape jelly; beat with it the white of one egg and a teaspoonf ul of sugar ; pour on it a teacupful of boiling water, and break in a slice of dry toast or two crackers. FOR THE SICK 499 CUP CUSTARD Break an egg into a coffee-cup, put in two teaspoonfuls of sugar, beat it up thoroughly, a pinch of salt and a pinch of grated nutmeg ; fill up the cup with good sweet milk ; turn it into another cup, well buttered, and set it in a pan of boiling water, reaching nearly to the top of the cup. Set in the oven, and when the custard is set it is done. CRACKER PANADA Break in pieces three or four hard crackers that are baked quite brown, and let them boil fifteen minutes in one quart of water; then remove from the fire, let them stand three or four minutes, strain off the liquor through a fine wire sieve, and season it with sugar. This is a nourishing bever- age for infants that are teething, and with the addition of a little wine and nutmeg, is often prescribed for invalids re- covering from a fever. BREAD PANADA Put three gills of water and one tablespoonful of white sugar on the fire, and just before it boils add two table- spoonfuls of the crumbs of stale white bread ; stir it well, and let it boil three or four minutes ; then add one glass of white wine, a grated lemon and a little nutmeg ; let it boil up once, then remove it from the fire, and keep it closely covered until it is wanted for use. SLIPPERY-ELM TEA Put a teaspoonful of powdered slippery-elm into a tum- bler, pour cold water upon it, and season with lemon and sugar. TOAST WATER, OR CRUST COFFEE Take stale pieces of crust of bread, the end pieces of the loaf ; toast them a nice, dark brown, care to be taken that 500 FOR THE SICK they do not burn in the least, as that affects the flavorf Put the browned crusts into a large milk pitcher, and pour enough boiling water over to cover them; cover the pitcher closely, and let steep until cold. Strain, and sweeten to taste; put a piece of ice in each glass. This is also good, drank warm with cream and sugar, similar to coffee. POWDERS FOR CHILDREN A very excellent carminative powder for flatulent infants may be kept in the house, and employed with advantage whenever the child is in pain or griped, dropping five grains of oil of anise-seed and two of peppermint on half an ounce of lump sugar, and rubbing it in a mortar, with a drachm of magnesia, into a fine powder. A small quantity of this may be given in a little water at any time, and always with benefit. FOR CHILDREN TEETHING Tie a quarter of a pound of wheat flour in a thick cloth, and boil it in one quart of water for three hours; then re- move the cloth and expose the flour to the air or heat until it is hard and dry; grate from it, when wanted, one table- spoonful, which put into half a pint of new milk, and stir over the fire until it comes to a boil, when add a pinch of salt and a tablespoonful of cold water, and serve. This gruel is excellent for children afflicted with summer complaint. Or, brown a tablespoonful of flour in the oven or on top of the stove on a baking-tin; feed a few pinches at a time to a child, and it will often check a diarrhoea. The tincture of "kino" — of which from ten to thirty drops, mixed with a little sugar and water in a spoon, and given every two or three hours, is very efficacious and harmless — can be pro- cured at almost any druggist's. Tablespoon doses of pure cider vinegar, and a pinch of salt, has cured when all else failed. FOR THE SICK 601 BLACKKBERRY CORDIAL This recipe may be found under the head of "Beverages." It will be found an excellent medicine for children teething and summer diseases. POULTICES A Bread and Milk Poultice. — Put a tablespoonful of the . crumbs of stale bread into a gill of milk, and give the whole one boil up. Or, take stale bread-crumbs, pour over them boiling water and boil till soft, stirring well; take from the fire and gradually stir in a little glycerine or sweet oil, so as to render the poultice pliable when applied. A Hop Poultice. — Boil one handful of dried hops in half a pint of water, until the half pint is reduced to a gill, then stir into it enough Indian meal to thicken it. A Mustard Poultice. — Into one gill of boiling water stir one tablespoonful of Indian meal; spread the paste thus made upon a cloth, and spread over the paste one teaspoon- ful of mustard flour. If you wish a mild poultice, use a tea- spoonful of mustard as it is prepared for the table, instead of the mustard flour. Equal parts of ground mustard and flour made into a paste with warm water, and spread be- tween two pieces of muslin, form the indispensable mustard plaster. A Ginger Poultice. — This is made like a mustard poultice, using ground ginger instead of mustard. A little vinegar is sometimes added to each of these poultices. A Stramonium Poultice. — Stir one tablespoonful of Indian meal into a gill of boiling water, and add one tablespoonful of bruised stramonium seeds. Wormwood and Arnica are sometimes applied in poultices. Steep the herbs in half a pint of cold water, and when all their virtue is extracted stir in a little bran or rye-meal to thicken the liquid ; the herbs must not be removed from the liquid. This is a useful application for sprains and bruises. 502 FOR THE SICK Linseed Poultice. — Take four ounces of powdered linseed, and gradually sprinkle it into a half pint of hot water. REMEDY FOR BOILS An excellent remedy for boils is water of a temperature agreeable to the feelings of the patient. Apply wet linen to the part affected, and frequently renew or moisten it. It is said to be the most effectual remedy known. Take inwardly some good blood purifier. CURE FOR RINaWORMS Yellow dock, root or leaves, steeped in vinegar, will cure the worst case of ringworm. EXCELLENT COUGH MIXTURE One cup of gum, one cup of honey, one cup of lemon juice, one ounce of glycerine; mix well, bottle, and take one tea- spoonful when cough is troublesome. CURE FOR COUGHS Three newly-laid eggs, unbroken, over which pour the juice of six lemons, and allow to stand for forty-eight hours. Then pick out any bits of eggshell which are not dissolved; add one-half pound of rock candy, and one pint of Jamaica brandy ; mix well and bottle. Dose : 1 tablespoonf ul three or four times a day. COUGH MIXTURE One ounce of tincture of benzoin, two wine-glasses of whisky, one cup of molasses. Mix well. One teaspoonful whenever cough is troublesome. FOR THE SICK 503 TONIC One quart of rye whisky, one ounce fluid extract of celery, two ounces fluid extract of hops, half ounce fluid extract of rhubarb, four quarts of cold water. Mix well, and bottle for use. One tablespoonful before each meal and at bedtime. SOAP LINIMENT One and one-half ounce soap liniment, one-half ounce turpentine, one-half ounce camphor, one-half ounce harts- horn, one-half ounce spirits of wine ; have made up at drug- gist. Excellent, REMEDY FOR COUGH One ounce of Balm of Gilead buds; put in a quart of water and boil down to a pint; add one pint of Bourbon whisky and one pound of loaf sugar. DANDELION WINE Four quarts of dandelion flowers; cover with one gallon of water and boil; strain, and when luke-warm add six lemons, four pounds of white sugar and half royal yeast- cake; let it stand about ten days, or until done working, then strain, bottle and seal. ELLIMAN'S EMBROCATION One new-laid egg well beaten, add to it by degrees one gill turpentine, one gill vinegar, put in alternately one-half ounce spirits of camphor. Directions for use. — For rheumatism, lumbago, for sore throat, cold in chest, etc., rub in well with hand, night and morning. A flannel may also be soaked in embrocation and put on, covered with a cloth or flannel. Can be used also as a substitute for mustard plaster, as above. 504 FOR THE SICK EIHMAN'S EMBROCATION Two glasses turpentine, one glass vinegar, one teaspoon salad oil, two raw eggs. Put all in a bottle and shake well for quarter of an hour, when it will be ready for use. Keep it well corked. REMEDIAL QUALITIES OF COMMON FRUITS A table giving the remedial qualities of the common fruits and vegetables is herewith appended: — Celery for any form of rheumatism and nervous dyspepsia. Lettuce for insomnia. Water-cress for scurvy. Onions are almost the best nervine known. Use for in- somnia, for coughs and colds, and as a complexion curer. Eaten every other day, they soon have a clearing and whiten- ing effect on the complexion. Spinach for gravel. Asparagus to induce perspiration. Carrots for suffering from asthma. Turnips for nervous disorders and for scurvy. Eaw beef proves of great benefit to persons of frail con- stitution, and to those suffering from consumption. It is chopped fine, seasoned with salt, and heated by placing it in a dish in hot water. It assimilates rapidly and affords the best nourishment. Eggs contain a large amount of nutriment in a compact quickly available form. Beaten up raw with sugar they are used to clear and strengthen the voice. With sugar and lemon juice the beaten white of egg is used to relieve hoarse- ness. Cranberries for erysipelas are used externally as well as internally. Cranberries eaten raw are one of the finest tonics and ap- petizers known. FOR THE SICK 505 In cases of yellow or typhoid fever, cranberries are almost indispensable as a tonic and to assist in clearing the system of the harmful bacteria. For some forms of dyspepsia there is no more simple and effective remedy than raw cranberries. Carry a supply in the pocket and eat them frequently during the day. They will cure headache as well. People who are subject to biliousness will find that with cranberries a part of each day's food they will be free from such attacks. Honey is wholesome, strengthening, cleansing, healing and nourishing. Fresh ripe fruits are excellent for purifying the blood and toning up the system. Sour oranges are highly recommended for rheumatism. "Watermelon for epilepsy and for yellow fever. Lemons for feverish thirst in sickness, biliousness, low fevers, rheumatism, colds, coughs, liver complaints, etc. Blackberries for diarrhoea. Tomatoes are a powerful aperient for the liver, a sovereign remedy for dyspepsia and for indigestion. Tomatoes are invaluable in all conditions in which the use of calomel is indicated. Figs are aperient and wholesome. Thej^ are said to be valuable as a food for those suffering from cancer. They are used externally as well as internally. Bananas are useful as a food for those suffering from chronic diarrhoea. Pie-plant is wholesome and aperient ; is excellent for rheu- matic sufferers and useful for purifying the blood. Peanuts for indigestion. They are especially recom- mended for corpulent diabetes. Peanuts are made into a wholesome and nutritious soup, are browned and used as a coffee, are eaten as a relish simply baked, or are prepared and served as salted almonds. 606 FOR THE SICK Apples are useful in nervous dyspepsia; they are nutri- tious, medicinal and vitalizing; they aid digestion, clear the voice, correct the acidity of the stomach, are valuable in rheumatism, insomnia, and liver trouble. An apple eon- tains as much nutriment as a potato, in a pleasanter, more "wholesome form. Grapes dissolve and dislodge gravel and calculi, and bring the stomach and bowels to a healthy condition. Ripe pineapples have been put upon the list of foods espe- cially healthful for persons troubled with indigestion, the juice being especially valuable in such cases. Shred with a silver fork, and reject all the indigestible core. The juice of a ripe pineapple is an almost invaluable remedy for diph- theria, the acid seeming to dissolve the strangling growth in the throat. FOR THE sick: 607 WRITTEI^ RECIPES 508 FOR THE SICK WEITTEN EECIPES FOR THE SICK 609 WRITTEN RECIPES SIO FOR THE SICK WRITTEN RECIPES TOILET RECIPES COLOGNE WATER Oil of lavender, two drachms ; oil of rosemary, one drachm and a half; orange, lemon and bergamot, one drachm each of the oil ; also two drachms of the essence of musk, attar of rose, ten drops, and a pint of proof spirit. Shake all to- gether thoroughly three times a day for a week JOCKEY CLUB BOUftUET Mix one pint extract of rose, one pint extract of tuberose, half a pint of extract of cassia, four ounces extract of jas- mine, and three ounces tincture of civet. Filter the mixture. ROSE WATER Preferable to the distilled for a perfume, or for culinary purposes: Attar of rose, twelve drops; rub it up with half an ounce of white sugar and two drachms carbonate mag- nesia ; then add gradually one quart of water, and two ounces of proof spirit, and filter through paper, BAY RUM French proof spirit one gallon; extract bay, six ounces. Mix and color with caramel ; needs no filtering. LAVENDER WATER Oil of lavender, two ounces ; orris root, half an ounce ; spirits of wine, one, pint. Mix and keep two or three weeks. 811 612 TOILET RECIPES It may then be strained through two thicknesses of blotting- paper and is ready for use. CREAM OF HUES Best white castor oil; pour in a little strong solution of sal tartar in water, and shake it until it looks thick and white. Perfume with lavender. COSMETIC BALM Half a gill of German cologne, half a gill of alcohol, half a gill of glycerine, one-eighth ounce gum tragacanth, one pint rain-water. Put all except gum in bottle. Heat quarter of a pint of rain-water, add the gum, and let stand half a day. Then mix all the ingredients and bottle for use. HAIR TONIC Tincture of eantharides one-half ounce, glycerine one-half ounce, lime water three ounces, distilled water one ounce, eau de cologne one-half ounce. Mix and bottle. This is from a famous English chemist. POT-POURRI The "rose jar" is one of the dainty notions which is appreciated by refined taste. Orris root four ounces ; oil of cloves or bruised cloves, three ounces; gum benzoin, two ounces ; calamus root, four ounces ; angelica root, six ounces ; oil of cinnamon (true), ten drops; oil of bitter almonds, forty drops; essence of bergamot, one drachm; English oil of lavender, forty drops ; oil of verbena, thirty drops. Hav- ing gathered fresh rose-leaves to nearly fill the jar, sprinkle some salt through them and leave to stand for a few days. Then pour over them the above mixture. It will perfume the air for years. From a famous English chemist. TOILET RECIPES 513 CREAM OF ROSES Olive oil, one pound; attar of roses, fifty drops; oil of rosemary, twenty-five drops; mix, and color it with alkanet root. COLD CREAK Melt one ounce oil of almonds, half-ounce spermaceti, one drachm white wax, and then add two ounces of rose-water, and stir it constantly until cold. LIP SALVE Melt one ounce white wax, one ounce sweet oil, one drachm spermaceti, and throw in a piece of alkanet root to color it, and, when cooling, perfume it with oil rose, and then pour^ it into small white jars or boxes. REMEDY FOR DANDRUFF Take glycerine four ounces, tincture of cantharides five ounces, bay rum four ounces, water two ounces. Mix, and apply once a day, and rub well down the scalp. HAIR INVIGORATOR Bay rum, two pints; alcohol, one pint; castor oil, one ounce ; carb. ammonia, half an ounce ; tincture of cantharides, one ounce. Mix well. This compound will promote the growth of the hair and prevent it from falling out. MACCASSAR OIL FOR THE HAIR ,. Eenowned for the past fifty years, is as follows: Take a quarter of an ounce of the chippings of alkanet root, tie this in a bit of coarse muslin, and put it in a b-^ttle containing eight ounces of sweet oil; cover it to keep out the dust; let it stand several days ; add to this sixty drops of tincture of 514 TOILET RECIPES cantharides, ten drops of oil of rose, neroli and lemon each sixty drops ; let it stand one week and you will have one of the most powerful stimulants for the growth of the hair ever known. Another : — To a pint of strong sage tea, a pint of bay rum and a quarter of an ounce of the tincture of cantharides, add an ounce of castor oil and a teaspoonful of rose, or other perfume. Shake well before applying to the hair, as the oil will not mix. DYE FOR WHITE OR HGHT EYEBROWS Boil an ounce of walnut bark in a pint of water for an hour. Add a lump of alum the size of a filbert, and when cold apply with a camel's hair brush. HAIR WASH One penny worth of borax, half a pint of olive oil, one pint of boiling water. Pour the boiling water over the borax and oil ; let it cool ; then put the mixture into a bottle. Shake it before using, and apply it with a flannel. Camphor and borax, dissolved in boiling water and left to cool, make a very good vish for the hair; as also does rosemary water mixed with a little borax. After using any of these washes, when the hair becomes thoroughly dry, a little pomatum or oil should be rubbed in to make it smooth and glossy — that is, if one prefers oil on the hair. OX-MARROW POMADE FOR THE HAIR One marrow bone, half a pint of oil, ten cents' worth of citronella. Take the marrow out of the bone, place it in warm water, let it get almost to boiling point, then let it cool and pour the water away; repeat this three times until the marrow is thoroughly "fined." Beat the marrow to a TOILET RECIPES 515 cream "with a silver fork, stir the oil in, drop by drop, beating all the time; when quite cold add the eitronella, pour into jars and cover down. TO INCREASE THE HAIR IN THE BROWS Clip them and anoint with a little sweet oil. Should the hair fall out, having been full, use one of the hair invigo- rators. DINNER GIVING The chief requisites for a successful dinner party are a very carefully selected group of congenial guests, a choice and well-assorted menu ; prompt and watchful, but silent and unobtrusive servants; lights tastefully adjusted, and a host and hostess absolutely at their ease. Even to the folding of the napkins and the temperature of the wines, the etiquette of the dinner party is now exactly prescribed, and the hostess who wanders from the limits of the well-ordained rules will surely find herself led into profitless and embarrassing ex- periments. For a ceremonious dinner the company consists of eight, twelve, fourteen or eighteen persons ; and the guests must be seated at one table. It is a serious, almost an unforgivable, error to overestimate the capacity of one's dining-room or the powers of one's cook or waitress, and attempt the entertain-, ment of a greater number of people than can be comfortably seated at one 's table, and the provision and service of an en- tertainment too complicated and elaborate for one 's facilities. The hour for a dinner, of such formality that the invitations have been issued a fortnight in advance of the chosen evening, is usually seven, seven-thirty, or eight o'clock. A dinner so elaborate that the actual serving of the many courses will occupy over two hours is a great mistake. A hostess should so arrange her menu and drill her servants that one hour and a half only will be spent at table, though in one hour a hand- some and very complete feast can be dispatched, without crowding one course too close upon the heels of another. After an hour or an hour and a half the diners are usually well satisfied to leave the atmosphere of the dining-room and 516 DINNER GmNG 517 the sight of food. The serving can be successfully accom- plished by a butler, a footman and one maid ; by a butler and! a maid, or by two skillful woman servants. For a dinner of eighteen covers, at least three servants are necessary ; for one of twelve covers, two will manage everj^thing nicely, while at one of eight covers a single, capable man or maid, is assisted by a well-trained helper in the pantry, can expeditiously minister to everyone's wants. The temperature of the dining-room should not be allowed to rise above seventy-five degrees, nor permitted to fall be- low seventy ; and the room should be kept always well venti- lated, in order that the air may be always sweet and free of odors from the kitchen. Even in the coldest weather one window at least may well be kept open an inch at top and bottom, until the guests enter. A dining-room heats only too rapidly from the lights, foods and human occupants, and ■even a sumptuous feast is robbed of all its charm when eaten in a hot, exhaustive atmosphere. If, by chance, an unoccu- pied room opens into the dining-room, continuous ventila- tion, without draughts, may be secured by opening the win- dows in the vacant chamber and shielding the doorway between the two rooms with screens. Gas jets or electric lights swinging above the centre of the table are a tasteless, tactless means of illuminating a dining-room. As a matter of fact, saving and excepting the table and its immediate environs, the room in which a truly enjoj'able feast is served must not be lighted at all. The light should be concen- trated and so directed, that, while every part of the cloth is in radiant vision, the guests' eyes are at the same time shaded from any painful glare and the buffets, side-table and pantry door thrown into agreeable shadow. Candles or small lamps, with the flame well shaded, produce the softest, steadiest, most comfortable and most becoming light. In- comprehensible as it may sound, there are hostesses who, in obedience to the behests of fashion, provide gorgeous cande- 518 DINNER GIVING labra or lamps for their table, yet continue to drown out and neutralize the glow from them by turning on the fierce hard light of the gas or electric chandelier. This is simply to convert a fashion, that really originated in sense and com- fort, into a perfect absurdity, and to rob the entertainment of just the refinement and picturesqueness that alone give the private dinner an advantage over a blazing feast spread in some hotel restaurant. Whether lamps or candles are used, they should be lighted at least three minutes before the dinner is announced, in order to make sure that they are in good condition and will burn freely and clearly until the dinner is finished. Candles are far more popular than lamps, because they give quite as soft and steady a light, with less heat, Eose red, white, pale yellow, and very delicate green shades are recommended as yielding the most agreeable re- flection. A square or round table, measuring nearly or all of five feet across, is not at all too extensive for the modern dinner party, wherein at least two feet and a half of the circumfer- ence is allotted to the cover of each guest. A long narrow table never lends itself readily to decoration, even under the most skillful hand. In the case of a round table, if the ordi- nary family board is not large enough to accommodate the number of guests, a larger separate top can be made, to be laid on the fixed smaller one, as special occasions require. Before the cloth is laid, a thickness of felt or double-faced canton flannel should be placed upon the board; and upon this is spread the cloth itself. A handsome dinner cloth falls in full, long drapery about the table, its four corners almost touching the floor; and as the beauty of a dinner- board depends largely upon the almost mathematical exact- ness with w^hich all the furnishings are arranged, a good point to start from in determining the proper location of goblets, decanters, and so on, is the central crease in the cloth. At the middle point in this line the large centre DINNER GIVINa 519 doiley finds its proper place. A square or circular piece of fine napery, lace, or drawn work is best used here; mirror disks and scarfs and circular pieces of linen embroidered in colors are no longer the mode. Occasionally a silver tray is placed at the centre of the table, and on it is set a crystal or silver bowl, or vase filled with flowers. But where the doiley or the tray is chosen for the flat centrepiece, the flowers are still the chief ornament of every table. "White blossoms and maiden-hair fern, a sheaf of gorgeous hot-house roses, a flat basket of orchids, a bowl of brilliantly-tinted sweet peas, an inexpensive dish of ferns, or a pot of blossoming violets are any of them appropriate, whether the decoration is built high or kept quite flat. It is the commendable taste of most host- esses to use pink lamp or candle shades, if pink roses have the post of honor, and yellow silk shades when daffodils shed their radiance of color abroad. When the centre ornament has been artistically adjusted, the candlesticks or lamps are disposed about it. Four can- dles will thoroughly illuminate a table laid for six or eight. For a table of twelve persons, six sticks or two candelabra, each with three or four branches, will be required. De- canters of wine, salt-cellars, pepper-boxes, eompotiers of bon- bons, and platters of salted nuts are then located. Individual salt-cellars and pepper-boxes are not often on dinner tables, but large ones stand, one of each, side by side, somewhere near the four corners of the table. The trays or eompotiers of silver, porcelain, or crystal, holding the nuts and sweets, are set between the candlesticks, or a little out- side the circle of the candlesticks, toward the edge of the table. Whatever plan of laying a table is followed, care must be taken that one side exactly matches and balances the other in the number and placing of the various articles, in order to give it a tidy and finished appearance. Care should also be taken not to litter the board with useless objects or dishes 620 DINNER GIVING that properly belong on the sideboard. Butter is not served at a ceremonious dinner; in fact, at the modern well-ap- pointed family dinner table it does not appear. Celery, radishes, olives, horseradish, mustard, or any other relish or special seasoning, is passed from time to time by the servant ; so also are bread and water. Therefore, carafes and menues, favors, individual bouquets of flowers, and groups of hand- some but useless spoons have wisely been banished as clumsy and meaningless. The requirements in the arrangement of a dinner cover are as follows: The plate should be so placed that if it is decorated, the fruit or flowers of the decoration will be in a natural position to the eye of the person seated before it ; or so that if it is adorned with a monogram or crest, this will be right side up to the view of the sitter. On the plate is placed a large white dinner napkin, folded and ironed square, with the monogram corner showing, and with a dinner roll or a square of bread laid between the folds. To the left of the plate three silver forks are laid close together, the points of the prongs turned up. To the right of the plate lie two large silver-handled, steel-bladed knives and one small silver knife, their sharp edges turned toward the plate. Beside the silver knife is laid a soup spoon, with its bowl turned up, and next to the soup spoon lies the oyster fork. Though three forks only are as a rule laid at the left of the plate, a hostess whose supply of silver is equal to almost any reason- able demand may add yet another or lay the covers with only two apiece. The additional fourth fork would be for the fish and of a special shape, that is, shorter than the others, with three flat prongs and the third one on the left broader than the others. If the fish that is to be served can easily be disposed of without the use of the small silver knife at the right of the plate, then this last mentioned utensil should not be supplied. Nearly touching the tips of the knife-blades stand four DINNER GIVING 521 glasses — one a goblet, or tumbler, for water ; one a small, very- tapering, vase-like glass, for sherry; one, the conventional wine-glass, for claret, and one very tall or very flaring for champagne. If sauterne or any still white wine is also to be served, to the list of glasses must be added one shaped like the one for claret and tinted a delicate green. If both still water and sparkling water are to be offered, the first mentioned should be served in stemmed goblets and the second in tumblers, and if whisky and water is to be offered to any of the male guests, there must be provided for this clear, thin glass tumblers, very much taller than those used for the mineral water, and perfect cylinders in shape or flaring slightly at their tops. On top of the napkin lies a small gilt-edged card, possibly with a tiny water-color decoration in the corner, and bearing across its length, in the hostess's handwriting, the name of the person for whom the seat is intended. Large dinners seem to require a long list of dishes — for eighteen persons, as many as ten or twelve or fourteen courses; for eight per- sons, eight or nine courses ; six friends meeting round a hos- pitable board would be well satisfied with six courses. The order of a sumptuous dinner would follow this general rou- tine: 1. Shell fish — small clams or oysters, one-half dozen for each person, laid in their shells on a bed of finely crushed ice. With these are offered red and black pepper, grated horseradish, small thin slices of buttered brown bread or tiny crisp biscuit and quarters of lemon. 2. Soup. 3. A course of hors d'ceuvres, such as radishes, celery, olives, and salted almonds. 4. Fish, with potatoes and cucumbers, the latter dressed with oil and vinegar. 5, ]\Iushrooms or sweetbreads. 6. Asparagus or artichokes. 7. Spring lamb, or roast, with a green vegetable. 8. Roman punch. 9. Game with salad. 10. A second entree. 11. A rich pudding. 12. A frozen sweet. 13. Fresh and crj^stallized fruit, and bonbons. 14. Coffee and liqueurs. 522 DINXER GIVING Leaving out the third, fifth and tenth courses, a menu of proportions sufficiently dignified for a dinner of eight guests remains, while for a simple entertainment it would be enough to begin with soup, followed by fish, a roast, salad, ices, sweet- meats and coffee. "Wines are a feature of the greatest im- portance in dinner-giving. For a dinner of more than eight persons, a white wine, sherry, claret, Burgundy and cham- pagne are provided, one wine, jjreferably claret, for a small dinner. White wine is drunk with the first course and sherry with the soup ; champagne is offered with fish, and its glasses are replenished throughout the meal. Claret or Burgundy comes in with the game. Sherry and claret are usually decanted, and the cut crystal and silver bottles form part of the decora- tive furniture of the table. The temperature of these liquids must not be below sixty degrees, and many persons prefer their claret of the same temperature as the dining-room. "White wines and Burgundy are best poured from their bottles and served cool but certainly not cold. When a very fine Burgundy is poured the bottles are laid on their sides, each one in its small individual basket, and for hours they are not disturbed in order that all the sediment may fall to the bottom, leaving the rich fluid exceedingly clear. The man or maid servant who pours this wine brings each bottle in its basket to the table and so handles the whole that the bottle may be jostled as little as possible. Champagne is never decanted, and must be poured while very cold — in fact, directly on leaving a bed of ice and salt in which the bottles, as a rule, are packed to their necks for a half hour before dinner. The buckets of salt and ice, holding the bottles of champagne, are placed conveniently in the pantry, and when this wine is to be poured the servant deftly pulls the cork and wraps a fringed white napkin spirally about the bottle, from neck to base. This napkin absorbs the moisture on the bottle's surface and prevents any dripping. An untrained DINNER GIVING 523 servant should never be trusted to pour champagne. Liqueurs are served with the coffee, are decanted into cut or gilded glass bottles of special shape and drunk from, very- small stemmed or tumbler shaped glasses. All liqueurs are equally agreeable when served at the temperature of the drawing-room, though many persons prefer green mint when it is poured into tiny glasses nearly filled with shaved ice. The bottles of liqueur and small glasses are arranged on a silver tray and carried after dinner into the drawing-room when the coffee is taken there. The service of a dinner should proceed expeditiously — without haste, and yet without long pauses between the courses. When a dinner commences with oysters or clams two plates are laid at each cover ; one, a deep plate, contains the shell fish laid on cracked ice, and this is set upon a second plate. If the dinner begins with soup each cover is laid with a flat plate, on which is folded a napkin holding a roll. These things the guests remove when they are seated and the servant then sets upon the first plates, second and deeper ones containing soup. At the conclusion of the soup course all the soup plates are removed, with the plates on which they have stood, and then warm plates for the fish are distributed. After this course a clean plate is placed before each guest before the serving of any course begins, and when the first three forks and knives laid at all the covers, have been used, fresh ones must very naturally be given with each plate. A question troubling many a hostess is whether the clean knives and forks should be put on the fresh plates as they are laid before the guests, or whether the plates should be distributed first and then the knives and forks laid on the cloth beside them. The first course is usually adopted in restaurants and at hotel tables, where rapid service is esteemed above noiseless and deliberate elegance. In a private house, where servants are well trained, one maid distributes the plates and in her rear comes another, to softly lay the knives and forks in their 624 DINNER GIVING proper places. Even if one maid serves the dinner she can proceed thus with greater rapidity and silence than If re- quired to set plate, knife and fork all down together. Plates for hot courses must needs be warmed, but hot plates that make one's fingers tingle are an inappropriate evidence of zeal. A well-trained servant presents the dishes at the left hand of every guest in turn, beginning the first course with the lady at the right of the host, and then passing in regular order from gentlemen to ladies as they are seated. After the first course, the dishes are started on their progress about the table at the left hand of a lady, but not always with the lady seated at the host's right, for the same person must not in- variably be left to be helped last. At a ceremonious dinner served a la Eusse, the host does not carve any of the meats, none of the dishes are set upon the table and the hostess does not help her guests to anything. "When a dozen or more persons are dining the serving of a course is expedited by dividing the whole amount of the course on two dishes, which the two servants in waiting would begin to pass simultane- ously, from opposite sides and different ends of the table. When dinner is announced, the host at once offers his right arm to the lady who is to sit at his right. If a dinner is given in honor of a married couple, the host leads the way to the table with his guest 's wife, the hostess bringing up the rear with that lady's husband. If there is no particularly distinguished person in the party, the host takes in the eldest lady, or the one who has been invited to the house for the first time. Relatives, or husbands and wives are never sent in together. There should, if possible, be an equal number of men and women guests. If, however, there are eight ladies and seven gentlemen, the hostess should bring up in the rear walking alone ; she should never take the other arm of the last gentleman. Those who go into the dining-room to- gether sit side by side ; and they can move gently about the table, discover their places by the cards bearing their names DINNER GIVING 525 and lying at their respective covers. The host waits a mo- ment until the ladies are seated, then the dinner proceeds. For a very large dinner, the hostess will find it most conven- ient to prepare beforehand small cards in envelopes, to be given the gentlemen by the butler at the door or in their dressing rooms. On each envelope is inscribed the name of the gentleman for whom it is intended ; on the card inside is the name of the lady whom he is to take in to the table. On investigating his card, the recipient can easily identify his table companion, and if he knows her not, can appeal to his host or hostess to introduce him. A plan of the dinner table is often placed in the gentlemen's and ladies' tiring rooms, that all may have an idea of their location. Should one or more guests arrive after the company is seated, the hostess is expected to bow, smile, shake hands, and receive apologies amiably ; but does not rise unless the guest is a woman. The host, however, rises, goes forward, assists in seating the delin- quent, and endeavors, by making general conversation, to distract attention from the incident. If the arrival is very late, no break is made in serving, the guest being expected to take up the dinner at the point it has reached when he ap- pears, otherwise great confusion arises. At the conclusion of the fruit course, the hostess looks significantly at the lady at the right of her husband, and meeting her glance, nods, smiles and rises. At this movement the gentlemen rise as well, standing aside to permit the ladies to pass out toward the drawing-room. The doors or portieres of the door com- municating between drawing-- and dining-room are then closed, and the butler or waitress carries in the coffee tray to the ladies, following it with a tray holding tiny glasses and decanters of various liqueurs. In the drawing-room, the ladies resume their gloves at their leisure, accepting or refusing the coffee and liqueurs as their preferences prompt. In the dining-room, the men sit at ease to smoke and sip 526 DINNER GIVING their coffee and wine, drawing down near that end of the table at which the host is established. At a sign from that gentleman, cigars are put aside, and a general exodus from the dining-room takes place. Such would be the etiquette for the ceremonious and fash- ionable dinner party; and with a very few changes, a small and less fashionable dining would be conducted on precisely the same lines. There might be fewer servants and fewer courses, simple flowers, and but a quartet of intimate friends ; but this change of conditions necessitates but slight altera- tion in the method of arranging the table, of offering the food, and of arranging the guests. A hostess who possesses pretty but simple table furniture, and commands the services of but one maid, and a cook of ordinary capabilities, should select a list of dishes which will not be difficult to prepare; oysters, soup, fish, a roast with vegetables, salad, dessert and coffee, if well cooked and tempt- ingly presented, form a feast fit to set before a king. The fish course is completed by potatoes or cucumbers, or both; the salad is possibly preceded by frozen punch and accom- panied with game, and for a truly simple dinner the hostess should serve the soup, salad, and dessert, and the host serve the fish and carve the joint and game. A white cloth and centrepiece of flowers, four candles or dinner lamps, one de- canter of red wine and two or four small crystal or silver platters, containing bonbons, olives, salted nuts and celery, are the proper furnishings for a board set for a party of six or eight persons. The covers for a simple dinner are, with the exception of fewer wine glasses, arranged as for a fash- ionable and formal banquet. If the first course consists of oysters or clams, these should be ready set on the table. If the dinner begins with soup, the hostess should find, when the company enter, the filled and covered tureen and a pile of warm soup plates at her place. So soon as everyone is seated the maid removes the DINNER GIVING 527 tureen cover and passes the plates of soup and properly re- moves the tureen when the last plate has been filled and passed. The first is given to the lady seated on the host's right hand, then to the other ladies, in the order in which they are seated, before the gentlemen are served. A well- instructed waitress does not remove the plates of any course until she sees that every guest has quite finished. The fish and fish plates are set before the master of the house and when each guest has received a portion the waitress passes on her tray a dish of potatoes. If cucumbers are to be eaten with the fish, a small glass saucer should be laid at the left of every cover, and then the maid passes to each guest a glass bowl, in which the cucumber has been prepared. The master of the house, at a dinner of the simpler sort, carves the roast, and the maid, having deposited the plates containing the meat before each guest, passes the vegetables. The dishes of vegetables never look well on the table. When everyone has had a helping these dishes should be covered, placed on the sideboard and perhaps passed again before the meat course is finished. The roast is, however, left before the carver, if it is his desire to invite the guests to a second helping of meat. When a frozen punch is served between the roast and salad, the small glass cups, from which it is eaten, are filled in the pantry, each one is set on a dessert plate, on which is laid a teaspoon. If game follows the punch it should be carved by the master of the house and the salad passed by the waitress, so that each guest helps himself directly from the large salad bowl, either on the plates containing the game, or small plates to be set at the right of every guest before the salad goes around. When neither frozen punch nor game are served the bowl of salad and the plates should be set before the hostess foe serving and the maid then passes the cheese and toasted bis- cuit. The hostess, also serv^es the ice or pudding that forms 528 DINNER GIVING the dessert and the waitress passes the cake and finally sets it on the table. Should claret and a white w^ine or one red wine only be served with such a meal, the host invites that gentleman whose hand is nearest the decanter to fill the glass of the lady beside him, his own, and then pass the decanter on. Some- times the waitress, after she has served everyone to soup, fills all the wine glasses and places the decanter near the host, who thereafter sees that it is passed about at proper intervals. If a fruit course succeeds the dessert the waitress places before every guest a plate on which there lies a doiley; on' this a quarter finger bowl of water and beside the bowl a small silver knife. Then to everyone she offers the platter of fruit and finally places it on the table before her master or mistress. The coffee is usually brought in to the table and the hostess pours the beverage. The first duty of the dinner guest is to arrive before the hostess' door on the stroke of the hour named in her invitation. It is almost as embarrassing a blunder to anticipate by ten or twenty minutes the time indicated on the dinner cards as it is to keep the hostess, her delicate viands, and her presumably hungry guests waiting. If one be unavoidably detained, an earnest and brief apology should be offered the hostess ; and if the company are already seated at table, it is best, after a short explanation, to take the vacant seat and ignore the subject of the delay. Guests are privileged to leave at any moment after the dinner is concluded. It is not polite or flattering to a host and hostess to accept their invitations to a ceremonious din- ner and hurry away to meet another engagement ; but in the gay season, in a big city, where one or two entertainments take place in an evening, a man or woman greatly in demand may linger but ten minutes in the drawing-room after dinner, and then, with explanations and adieux, go on to the next festivity. INDEX BEVERAGES 449-456 Beverage 450 Blackberry Cordial 455 Blackberry Vinegar 455 Cafe au Lait 453 Cafe Frappe 453 Choca 451 Chocolate 454 Claret Cup 452 Cocoa 454 Coffee 450, 453 Coffee, Healing Properties of 449 Ginger Beer 450 Ginger Coi'dial 451 Lemonade 454 Milk Punch 452 Orangeade 454 Raspberry Royal 455 Raspberry Vinegar 455 Tea, Healing Properties of 449 Tea, Russian 451 BREAD, BISCUITS, MUF- FINS, etc 310-336 Bread 310 Bread, Vienna 315 Bread, Spoon 317 Bread, Baked Brown 321 Bread, Graham 321 Bread, Graham, Quick .... 321 Bread, Indian 321 Breadsticks 336 Bread Savory, Fried 332 Bread, Oatmeal 323 Bread, Rye 322 Biscuits, Maryland 317 Biscuits, Hot, Baking Pow- der 317 Biscuits, Soda, without Milk 323 Biscuits, Buttermilk 323 Biscuits, Raised Graham... 324 Buns, Spanish . . .318, 320, 333 Buns, Scotch Currant 320 Buns, Hot Cross 326 Cornbread, Adirondack .... 319 Cornbread, New Oi-leans . . . 322 Corncake 336 Fruit Pin Wheels..: 335 529 Bread, Biscuits, Etc. — Continued. Gems, Spice 319 Gems, Graham 328 Gems, Apple 328 Gems, Oatmeal 329 Gems, Wheat 329 Gems, Rye 330 Gems, Cornmeal 330 Muffins 314, 315, 316, 318 Muffins, Corn 318 Muffins, Milk 319 Muffins, Rice 330 Muffins, Cornmeal 330 Muffins, Plain 331 Muffins, Raised 331 Muffins, English Breakfast. 332 Pancakes 333, 334 Popovers 319, 335 Potato Cakes 334 Puffs, Oatmeal 327 Rice Griddle Cakes 335 Rolls, To Renew Stale 313 Rolls, Egg 324 Rolls, Parker House 316, 324, 334 Rolls, Vienna 325 Rolls, Bread Twist 325 Rolls, French Raised 32G Rusks, Yeast 327 Rusks, Dried 327 Sally Lunns 334 Scones, Soda 316 Scones 317 Scones, Potato 330 Spiced Raisin Loaf 314 Waffles 332, 336 Yeast, Old-fashioned 314 BUTTER AND CHEESE... 461, 471 Butter, To Make 461-462 Butter, A Brine To Pre- serve 462 Butter, Putting Up To Keep 4a3 Cheese, New Jersey Cream. 463 Cheese, Cottage 464 Cheese Fondu 465, 470 Cheese Ramakins 467 530 INDEX Butter and Cheese — Continued. Cheese Souffle ....465, 400, 467 Cheese, Scalloped 467, 470 Clieese Straws . . .468, 469, 470 Cheese Cream Toast 468 Curds and Cream 463 Macaroni and Cheese 469 Slip 4(>4 CAKES 272-305 Almond ^ '^ Angel "^^^ Apple Short Cake 280 Bridesmaid's 2S9 Chocolate Glace ^<8 Chocolate . . .280, 281, 284, 290 (]love "^"^ Cocoanut Puffs 276, 297 Coffee Cake, German 3U4 Cookies ^^■^ Cookies, Oatmeal .283, 292, 296 Cookies, Drop 283 Cookies, Cocoanut 2h4 Cookies, Shrewsbury 290 Cookies, Ginger 295 Cornstarch Cake i- ^go Cornmeal '• ^^y Crullers • • • • 304 Cup 29a, 300 Date ^^ Dayton 294 Drop 298 Easy 29o Eccles ^^-^ Fig Paste Fillmg 300 Filling 277 Filling, Walnut Cream 301 Frosting -.274, 280 Fruit 278, 287, 297 Gingerbread, Soft 277 Ginger 285 Gingerbread, Lafayette 292 Ginger Snaps 293 Ice Cream 288 Icing 289, 296 Imperial 291 Jam 282 Jelly 299 Kisses r 276 Layer 283 Lemon > 296 Lemon Cheese 278. 302 Lunch 297, 304 Macaroons 284 Macaroons, Cocoanut ......802 Macaroons, Oatmeal . . . 287, 297 Maple Sugar 296 Mocha 293 Calces — Continued. Molasses 294 Neapolitan 298 Orange 290 Orange Filling 286 Raisin Layer . 291 Raspberry 276 Ribbon 299 Rock 298, 303 Peel 279, 288 Plain 286 Plum 275, 276 Scotch , 301 Seed 293 Shortbread 281, 288, 305 Shortbread, Scotch 289 Silver 300 Sponge .277, 279, 282, 285, 291 294, 298 Sponge, Chocolate 282 Sponge Roll 304 Sponge, Treacle 279 Spice 284, 295 Tea 302, 303 Wafers, Walnut 294 Wafers, Oatmeal 300 Wafers, Vanilla 301 Walnut 302 Wedding 287 White Rock 285 CANDIES .424-433 Candy, Peanut 426 Candy, Hickory Nut 426 Candy, Velvet Cream 427 Candy, Maple Cream.. .428, 430 Candy, Maple Sugar... 429, 430 Candy, Nut Molasses 432 Candy, Sugar Nut 432 Candy, Cocoanut 427, 432 Candy, Molasses 433 Caramels 426. 427 Caramels, Chocolate 428 Chocolate Creams 429 Currant Drops 431 Chocolate Fudge 426 Butter Scotch 425 Fudge 427 Lemon Drops 431 INIaple Mousse 432 Nougat 430 Stuffed Dates 430 Toffee, Scotch 428 Turkish Delight 431 Yum Yum 427 CHAFING DISH RECIPES 438-444 Chicken Croquettes ....... 443 INDEX 531 Chafing Dish Recipes — Continued. Clams Saute 441 English Monkey 439 Hungarian Mushrooms . . . 443 Lobster a la Newburg 442 Lobster, Celery 443 Lobster. Creamed 442 Oysters, Celery 441 Oysters, Deviled 438 Oysters on Toast, Creamed. 430 Oysters with Anchovy 438 Sardines, Deviled 441 Shrimps with Anchovy Sauce 442 Shrimps with Tomato Sauce 443 Welsh Rarebit . . .439, 440, 443 DESSERTS. CUSTARDS, AND CREAMS 227-249 Ambrosia 229 Almonds, Salted 229 Apple Snow 241 Apple Sponge 245 Apple Charlotte 230, 248 Apples a la Princess Maud 234 Apricots, Poached 230 Bananas 235 Cafe Mousse 237 Compote of Chestnuts .... 246 Charlotte Russe 232, 238 Cranberry Jelly 231 Cream, Italian 2.32 Cream. Chocolate 232, 234 Cream, Pineapple .233, 238, 242 Cream, Spanish 23G, 247 Cream, Stone 240 Cream, Ginger 242, 248 Cream, Russian 242 Cream, Burnt 248 Cream, Raspberry 228 Creme a la Duchesse 233 Cranberry Frappe 237 Custard, Soft Caramel .... 228 Custard, Caramel 240, 247 Custard Souffle 239 Daintv Dessert, A , 229 Fig Trifle 241 Fruit Jelly 244 Ice Cream, Philadelphia. .. . 247 Ice Cream 239 Lemon .lelly 244 Maple Parfait 236 Maple Mound 241 Peach Melba 230 Plum Shape 247 Prince of Wales Dessert . . . 246 Prunes, Gateaux aux 233 Prune .Telly 244, 245 Prune Shape 229 Desserts, Custards, Etc. — Continued Rich Chocolate Torte 249 Sauce 243 Sherry Flip 234 Sherbet, Strawberry 236 Sherbet, Lemon 236, 243 Sherbet, Muscat 237 Souffle 242 Strawberry Mold 231 Trifle 2.38, 242 Trifle, Lemon 240 Water Ice, Lemon 239, 241 Water Ice, Orange 239 Wine Jelly 243 EGGS AND OMELETS.. 360-364 Eggs 360 Eggs, Anchovy 362 Eggs, To Preserve 360 Eggs, Savory 362 Eggs, Stewed 363 Eggs, Stewed in Cream. . . . 364 Omelet 361, 3^3 Omelet, Cheese 362 Omelet, German 362 Omelet of Mushroom 363 Omelet, Oyster 364 Omelet, Fish 364 Omelet, Oniou 364 Omelet, Jelly 364 FISH 37-65 Alewives, Smoked 58 Angels on Horseback 43 Baked Fish 39, 47 Bass, Boiled 60 Bass, Baked 64 Bass, Fillet of 61 Black Fish, Fillet of 61 Bloaters, Smoked 58 Boiled Fish 38 Broiled Fish 38 Brook Trout 61 Clams a la Financicre 59 Codfish, Creamed . . .' 48 Coflfish, in Cream 49 Codfish Balls 48, 49 Codfish Cutlets 49 Codfish, Salt 50 Codfish, Baked 47 Cutlets, Fish 55 Dressing for Fried Fish... 42 Eels, Stewed 54 Finnan Haddie 58 Fish Entree 56 Fish, Left Over 46 Fish Balls a la Norris 55 Frying, Modes of 40 532 INDEX Fish — Continued. Frogs' Legs, Fried 59 Frogs' Legs, Stewed 59 Halibut 62 Halibut, Colloped 62 Halibut, Fillet of 61 Halibut, Boiled 63 Herrings, Smoked 58 Lobster, Berliner 57 Lobster, Escalloped 58 Lobster, Croquettes of ... . 56 Lobster, Curried 56 Lobster Cutlets 57 Mackerel, with Tomato Sauce 58 INIackerel, Broiled 60 Mayonnaise of Fish 54 Modes of Frying 40 Omelet of Fish 63 Oyster Cocktail 45, 46 Oysters, Curried 45 Oyster Cocktail Dressing... 46 Oysters, Scalloped 44 Oysters, Fried 43 Oysters, Kebobbed 45 Pickerel, Fried 61 Salmon, Boiled 54 Salmon, Loaf 53 Salmon, in a Mold 53 Salmon, Steamed 52 Salmon, Smoked 52 Salmon, Creamed 52, 53 Salmon, Baked 51 Salmon, Molded 50 Salmon, with Poached Egg. 50 Salmon, Cutlets 49 Sardines au Gratin 42 Sardines on Toast 42 Sardines, Canapees of 42 Sardine Savoy 43 Shrimps, Fricassee of 65 Smelts 65 Soles in Batter 47 Sturgeon, Roast 63 Sturgeon Cutlets 63 Turbot 65 Whitefish, Broiled 64 Whitefish, Boiled 64 FOR THE SICK 493-506 Beef Tea , 494 Blackberry Cordial 501 Boiled Rice 497 Boils, Remedy for 502 Bread Panada 499 Broth. Veal 494 Broth, Mutton 494 Beefsteak 494 Calves-Foot Jelly 495 For the Sick — Continued. Chicken Jelly 497 Chops, Beefsteak and Mut- ton 494 Cough Mixture 502 Cough, Cure for 502 Cough, Remedy for 503 Gruel, Oatmeal 494 Cracker Panada 499 Crust Coffee 499 Cup Custard 499 Dandelion Wine 503 Elliman's Embrocation.. 503, 504 For Children Teething 500 Gruel, Egg 496 Hominy 497 Jelly, Mulled 498 Lemonade, Flax-Seed 496 Mutton Chops 494 Mutton Broth 494 Orange Albumen 495 Porridge, Arrowroot Milk. , 496 Porridge, Milk 496 Powders for Children 500 Poultices 501 Remedial Qualities of Fruits 504 Ringworm, Cure For 502 Slippery Elm Tea 496, 499 Soap Liniment 503 Toast, Egg 498 Toast, Soft 498 Toast, Oyster 498 Toast Water . . 499 Tonic 503 MEATS 70-103 American Fritters 78 Aspic Jelly 83 Bavarian Entree 98 Beef, Roast 73 Beef, Roast, Baked, Cold . . 81 Beef, Roulades of 78 Beef Croquettes 25 Beef, Browned Mince of . . . 75 Beef, Breakfast Dish of . . . . 75 Beef Cakes 74 Beef Olives 79 Beef Stew 76 Beef, Hunters' 92 Brains, Boiled 78 Dutch Stew 86 Forcemeat for Veal 84 Frozen Meats, Thawing. ... 72 Haggis, Scotch 82 Ham Pie 87 Ham, Stuffed 99 Ham, Boiled 92, 99 Ham, Baked 100 Hamburg Steak 98 INDEX 633 Meats — Continued. Ham, To Glaze 101 Hash, Corned Beef 100 Irish Stew 91 Keep Meat From Flies, To. 73 Kidney, Berlin 77 Kidneys, Deviled 94, 101 Kidneys, Stewed with Wine 93 Kidneys, With Bacon 94 Kidneys, Toasted 94 Kidneys. Stuffed 95 Lamb, Roast Leg of 90 Lamb, Roast Shoulder of.... 88 Lamb, Broiled 80 Lamb, Minced With Poached Eggs 77 Lamb, Stewed Breast of . . . 77 Lamb, Braised Breast of... 88 Lamb Haricot 76 Lamb Chops 89 Lamb, Stewed, and Green Peas 90 Liver and Mushrooms 93 Mutton, Boiled 90 Mutton, Broiled 80 Mutton Chops 89 Mutton, Stuffed Leg of 88 Mutton, Curried 81 Ox Tails, Stewed 85 Pate De Veau 86 Pork, Roast 95 Pork Chops 96 Pork Steaks and Tender- loins 96 Pork, Spare Rib 96 Pork and Beans, Boston. . 95 Pork Pot Pie 97 Pork Pie, Yorkshire 97 Ris de Veau a cas Su- preme . 101 Savory Grill 81 Steak, Broiled 74 Steak, Stewed and Maca- roni 79 Steak, Smyrna 81 Sweetbreads for Timbales. . 87 Sweetbreads, Mayonnaise of 103 Sweetbreads, Breaded 103 Swiss Pates 80 Timbale Batter 86 Tongue, To Glaze 101 Veal Pie 87 Veal, Blanquette of 85 Veal Pattv 83, 102 Veal Chevreux 82 Veal, Galantine of 102 Veal Shape 79 Veal, Jellied .- 93 Yorkshire Pudding 74 MISCELLANEOUS 476-488 Apple Stuffing 476 Alexandra Rolls 481 Bouchees a la Reine 477 Batter for Timbales 478 Canope de Luxe 481 Cold Savory 478 Curry, King Kalakua's. . . . 479 Decoration For a Hot Day. 483 Fancy Cooking 483 Furniture Polish 484 Head Cheese 480 Horseradish Sauce 478 Hot Tartare Sauce 476 How To Stone Olives 484 How To Cut Bacon 484 How To Wash Dishes 484 Hungry Boys' Lunch 477 Kidgrie, or Dry Curry 482 Laplands 477 Lemon Cheese 480 Mousse ; 479 Onion Sauce 482 Plain Rice Cake 482 Polish for Morocco Furni- ture ,. . 484 Savory 478 Salted Almonds 476 Spanish Cream 481 S's 470 Spaghetti 477 Stove Polish 484 Things To Remember 486 PASTRY, PIES, AND TARTS 254-267 Apple Pie, Plain 263 Apple Tarts 261 Apricot Tarts 261 ^ Berry Tarts 261 Cheese Tartlets 267 Cheese Pie 267 Cocoanut Pie 265 Cranberry Pie 2Go Cream Pie 264 Cream Puffs 267 Icing for Pastry 256 Lemon Pie 257, 260 Lemon Filling 20O Lemon Filling for Pie 2G6 Lent Pie 265 Martha Washington's Pie.. 261 Mince Meat, for Pies 257 Mince Meat, Old Country.. 258 Mince Meat, with Beef 258 Mince Meat, Without Beef. 259 Mince INIeat, 1812 258 Orange Pie 263 Pastry, Plain, for Piea.... 255 634 INDEX Pastry, Pies arid Tarts — Continued. Pastry, for Tarts 256 Pastry, for Open Pies 256 Pie Crust 260, 266 Pumpliin Pie 264, 266 Sweet Potato Custard Pie. 259 PICKLES 388^02 Butter, Tomato 388 Catsup, Crab Apple 392 Catsup, Grape 394, 402 Catsup, Tomato 389 Catsup. Mustard 394 Chow-chow 393, 398 Chutney 889, 390, 398 Chutney, Tomato 390 Chutney, Bengal 391 Currants, Spiced 400 Grapes, Spiced 392, 396 Lemons, Pickled 397 Mustard Dressing 396 Mustard, Tomato 391, 396 Pickled Crab Apple 390 Pickled Mushrooms 391 Pickled Peaches 395 Pickles, Yellow 392, 401 Pickles, French 393 Pickles, INIustard 394, 399 Pickles, Sweet Tomato 399 Pickles, Green Cucumber . . 399 Pickles, Cherry 400 Pickles, India . . 40O Pickles, Lemon 401 Sauce, Chili .389, 390, 395, 399 Sauce, Chili, with Celery... 395 Sauce, Celery 395 Sauce, Tomato 397 Tomato Soy 398 POULTRY AND GAME. 108-143 Begum's Curry 141 Chicken, Roasted 116 Chicken, Boned, Roasted... 114 Chicken, Jellied, Boned.... 114 Chicken, Braised, Boned... 114 Chicken, Boiled 118 Chicken, Fondu of 127 Chicken, Braised 118 Chicken, Broiled 118 Chicken, Creamed 143 Chicken, Fricassee 119 Chicken, Fried 120 Chicken, Stuffed 120 Chicken, Broiled, on Toast, 121 Chicken, Curried 121 Chicken Pot Pie 122, 123 Chicken, Stewed, with Bis- cuit 123 Chicken, Celeried 126 Chicken Saute ■> 119 Poultry and Game — Continued. Chicken, Smothered 124 Chicken, Marjdand 124 Chicken Croquettes . . . 124, 125 Chicken, Creamed 126 Chicken Jelly 126 Dressing for Fowls 113 Duckling, Roast 129 Duck, Savory i 127 Duck, Stewed 128 Duck, Braised 128 Duck, Roast 128 Duck, Salmi of 129 Duck, Canvasback, Broiled. 130 Duck, Canvasback, Roasted 130 Duck, Redhead, Broiled ... 130 Duck, Redhead, Roasted . . 130 Duck, Ragout of, and Green Peas 13C Forcemeat for Stuffing Boned Fowls 115 Fowl Dressing 143 Game Pie 132 Giblet Sauce 117 Goose, Roast 131 Grilled Bones 121 Grouse, Broiled 132 Grouse, Salmi of 132 Hare, Jugged 137 Hare, Roast 137 "My Devil" 141 Oyster Dressing 113 Partridge, Roast 134 Perdrix aux Choux 138 Pigeon, Roast, Wild 134 Pigeon, Braised, With Mush- rooms 135 Pigeon Pie 135 Pigeon, English, Jugged ....135 Pigeon, Curried 136 Prairie Chicken, Roast 131 Potato Stuffing 143 Quail, Roast 133 Quail, Broiled 133 Rabbit, Roast 137 Rabbit, Stewed 84, 136 Small Birds 136 Snipe 136 Squabs, Broiled 134 Stuffing for Fowls 117 Stuffing, Chestnut 117 Timbales 142 Truss a Fowl, To 115 Turkey, Roast 109 Turkev, Scalloped Ill Turkey, Boiled 110 Turkev, Hashed Ill Turkey, Boned 112 Turkey, Wanned Over .... Ill INDEX 685 Poultnj and Game — Continued. Turkey, Blanquette of 112 Venison, Baked Saddle of. . 139 Venison, Jellied 139 Venison Pie 140 Venison, Roast Haunch of. 138 Venison Steak, Broiled . . . 139 Volaille, Souffle de 141 Woodcock 136 PRESERVES, JELLIES, ETC 407^19 Apple Leather 410 Apple Butter 413 Bottling Whole Fruit 419 Canned Pineapple 415 Canned Fruits 408 Chopped Pears 417 Ginger Apples 412, 413 Jam, Ripe Gooseberry .... 413 Jam, Rhubarb, Green 414 Jam, Rhubarb, Red 414 Jam, Blackberry 417 Jam, Apple 417 Jelly, Apple 410 .Telly, Grape 410 Jelly, Pear 415 Jelly, Pineapple 415 Marmalade, Orange 409, 411, 414, 418 Marmalade, Simple Recipe. 411 Marmalade, Pear 412 Marmalade, Quince 412 Marmalade, Scotch 416 Marmalade, Royal 418 Marmalade, Red Currant. . 418 Peach Leather 410 Pears, Chopped 417 Pears. Pickled 416 Pineapple, Canned 415 Preserve Fruit, whole, with- out Sugar 416 Quince Leather 410 PUDDINGS AND SAUCES 185-222 Ada Ford's 217 Agra 212 Almond, Hot 205 Almond, Cold 204 Apple, Swiss 211 Apple, Charlotte 210 Apple, Baked 209 Apple Meringue 209 Apple Fritters 211 Apple Souffle 210 Arrat 202 Arrowroot Charlotte 212 Arrowroot Creams 213 Puddings and Sauces — Continued. Austrian 213 Bachelor's 214 Banana 220 Batter, English Boiled 192 Betsy 214 Blueberry 193 BoQ Accord 201 Bread Fritters 213 Bread and Butter 200, 214 Brentwood 219 Brown 199, 207 Cake 197 Caramel 189, 191, 216 Caramel Custard 195 Carita 191 Carrot 202. 214 Cheese 189 Chocolate Sponge 190 Christmas 217, 218 Cream Sponge 203 Cracker 193 Cold Fruit 188 Cold 208 Cottage 188 Currants, To Clean 187 Custard 220 Date 201 Derbyshire 204 Fig 190, 196, 207 Fig. Smothered 216 Frozen 222 Fruit 215 German 211 Ginger, Plain 218 Ginger 198 Graham 217 Ice 200 Jelly 204 La Pai-isienne 205 Lemon Tapioca 203 Lemon 205 Macaroni 199 Madeira 191 Marmalade 188, 208 May's 219 Orange 203 Paradise 190 Patterdale 202 Pineapple and Tapioca 202 Plum, John Bull's Own 192 Plum ...189, 190, 196, 198, 2m Polka 197 Pouding a la Parisienne. . . . 205 Preserve Dumplings 222 Prune 192, 217 Raisin Puff 220 Raisins, To Stone 188 Rhubarb 221 536 INDEX Puddings and Sauces — Continued. Rice Apple 198 Rice 221 Roly Poly, Steamed 206 Sago, Steamed 208 Sauce, Cream 194 Sauce, Chocolate 194 Sauce, Hot Chocolate 194 Sauce for a Pudding 193 Sauce, Foam 194 Sauce, Creamy 194 Sponge 198, 207, 215 Syrup from Orange Peel... 195 Suet, Baked 197 Suet 215 Suet, To Chop 188 Tapioca, Fruit 196 Wheat Fig 199 Yorkshire 201, 215 SALADS AND DRESSINGS 369-383 Bean 379 Beet 383 Cabbage and Celery 375 Celery 375 Chicken 372 Chiffonade 381 Egg 377 Fruit 378 Gherkin 382 Heisser-Kraut 382 Kartoffel 382 Lobster 371 Malaga 370 Mayonnaise Sauce. 370, 371, 376 380, 383 Orange 376, 379 Oyster 381 Oyster 373 Pineapple 370 Potato 375 Russian 370 Sardine 377 Salad Dressing.... 369, 371, 372, , 374, 376, 377, 378, 380, 381 Sweetbread 377 Sweet Potato 379 Tomato 373 Tomato Jelly 374 Normandy 379 Nut 378 Waldorf 382 SANDWICHES 347-355 Celery and Cheese 350 Celery 355 Cheese and Honey 347 Cheese and Mustard 348 Sandwiches — Continued. Cheese 353 Chicken 352 Cream-Cheese 354 Cress 355 Crimson 348 Eastlawn Oyster 348 Egg 353 Green 349 Habitant 350 Ham and Chutney 347 Ham 351 Jam 349 Lettuce 348, 355 Mushroom 353 Olive 348 Peanut 355 Piquant 354 Raw Beef 351 Rolled Bread and Butter. .. 351 Salmon 349 Sardine 352 Savory 348, 353 Smart 350 Swiss Cheese . . ., 350 Toast 349 Tongue 354 Walnut 350 Wo tercress 352 Yellow 349 SOUPS 1-32 Asparagus, Cream of 6 Barley Broth 23 Barley, Cream of 17 Bean 8 Broth Made Quickly 27 Brown Soup, Clear 21 Carrot 7 Calf's Head 27 Cauliflower Broth 23 Celery, Cream of 30, 31 Chicken Broth 19 Chicken and Corn Broth... 17 Chicken, Plain 18 Clam 28 Clam, Mock 9 Clear 13 Consomme 29 Corn Chowder 24 Dahl 32 Duchess 30 Giblet 14 Gumbo 16 Herbs Used in Soup 3 Highlanders' Delight 19 Kidney 8, 9 Lettuce. Cream of 21 INDEX 537 Soups — Continued. Liver 24 Marrowball 16 Mock Turtle 20 Mulligatawny i. 25 Mutton Broth 27 Mushroom 32 Old Hare 25 Onion 13, 14 Oyster 26, 27, 28 Ox-Tail Soup 29 Pea, Green 8 Pea, Split 26 Peanut 31 Potato 9, 10, 31 Quenelles for Clear Soup. .. 6 Rabbit 25 Salmon 10 Scotch Broth 22 Stock 4 Stock, White 5 Stock, to Clarify 5 Stock, Brown 6 Spaghetti 20 Sorrel, Cream of 22 Tapioca 20 Tomato Bouillon 11 Tomato 11 Tomato, Cream of 12 Tomato Puree „ 12 Tomato Bisque 12 Tripe 10 Turkish 10 Turnip 21 Veal 31 Vegetables Used in Soup ... 3 Vegetable 15 Vegetable Puree 16 Vermicelli 20 White Soup 7 TOAST 341-343 American 842 Cream 341 French 342 Ham 343 Milk 341 Nuns' 342 TOILET RECIPES 511-515 Bay Rum 511 Cold Cream 513 Cologne Water 511 Cosmetic Balm 512 Cream of Lilies 512 Cream of Roses 513 Dandruff, Remedy For 513 Eyebrows, Dye for 514 Hair Tonic ' 512 Toilet Recipes — Continued. Hair Invigorator 513 Hair Wash 514 Hair on the Brows, To In- crease 515 Jockey Club Bouquet 5il Lavender Water 511 Lip Salve 513 Macassar Oil 513 Ox-Marrow Pomade 514 Pot Pourri 512 Rose Water 511 VEGETABLES 148-180 Artichokes, Boiled 180 Asparagus Tips 164, 165 Asparagus, Boiled 164 Asparagus a la Vinaigrette 164 Asparagus, Scalloped 164 Asparag-us Pates 165 Beans, Lima 171 Beans, Lima, Stewed 171 Beans, Kidney 172 Beans, Kidney, a la Lyon- naise 172 Beets, Young, Boiled 163 Beets, Old, Boiled , 163 Beet Tops 164 Cabbage, Ways of Cooking. 162 Carrots, Young, Creamed. . . 178 Carrots, Young, a la Paris- ienne 177 Carrots, Stewed 177 Cauliflower au Gratin 172, 173, 174 Cauliflower, Boiled 172 Cauliflower, Boiled, with Tomato Sauce 173 Cauliflower, Parisian Style. 173 Cauliflower, Stewed 173 Cauliflower, Baked 174 Celery, Savory 180 Celery, Creamed 180 Corn Fritters 167, 168, 169 Corn, Canned 169 Corn and Tomatoes, Stewed 168 Corn, Stewed 167 Corn, Boiled 167 Egg-plant, Fried 177 Egg-plant, Broiled 177 Onions, Creamed 158 Onions, Baked 159 Onions, Bermuda, Stuffed . . . 159 Onion Souffle 159 Onion Fritters 160 Oyster Plant. Baked 166 Parsnips, Buttered 179 Parsnip Cake 179 638 INDEX Vegetables — Cotitimied. Parsnips, Creamed 179 Peas, Green 169 Peas, Canned 179 Peas, Puree of Green 179 Peas, Green, Pancakes .... 179 Peas, Black-ej^ed 171 Peppers, Sweet, Staffed 178 Peppers, Sweet, Fried .... 178 Peppers, Green, Stuffed . . . 165 Potato Rice 149 Potatoes, Baked 149 Potatoes, Lyonnaise 149 Potatoes, Fried 159 Potatoes, Saratoga 159 Potatoes, Puffed or Souffle. 151 Potato Rissoles 149 Potatoes, Sweet, Puree .... 151 Potatoes, Sweet, Browned,. 151 Potatoes, Sweet, Baked . . . 151 Potatoes, Sweet 151 Rice Croquettes 169 Rice, Boiled 169 Rice Curi-y 161 Salsify 166 Salsify Fritters 166 Salsify, Stewed 167 Vegetables — Continued. Spinach, Souffle 174, 175 Spinach, French 174 Spinach, Boiled, Plain .... 175 Succotash 169 Squash, Boiled . 176 Squash Fritters 176 Squash, Baked 176 Tomatoes, Stewed 152, 154 Tomatoes, Scalloped ..152, 156 Tomatoes, Stuffed 15.3 Tomatoes, Roasted 153 Tomatoes, Broiled 154 Tomato, Pilaff 154 Tomatoes and Cheese 154 Tomatoes au Gratin 155 Tomatoes, Broiled with Sauce 155 Tomatoes, Baked 156 Tomatoes, Fried in Batter. 157 Tomatoes, Fried, Plain . . . 157 Tomatoes, Deviled 157 Tomatoes, East Indian, Ragout of 158 Tomatoes, on Toast 156 Turnips, Young 161, 162 Turnips, a la Creme 161