m^ ^^■5 W4 i i ST. ANDREWS, FLORIDA Historical notes upon St. Andrews and St. Andrews Bay, with Maps, and a portrait of Governor Clark And an APPENDIX Containing the official record of the vessels employed on the Blockading Fleet, of St. Andrews Bay By G. M. West T^ubli^hed by the Panama City Publishing Company, St Andrews Fla., 1922. COPYRIGHT. 1922. BY G. M. WEST ©CIA674699 JUN 21 1922 ♦Vvi To My Friends Here and Elsewhere Who by their expressed interest in my writings, have inspired and encouraged the sante, this little work is Respectfully Dedicated BY THE AUTHOR Errata. Page 7: 19th line, should read "settlement on St. Joseph. Bay," instead of St. Andrews Bay. Page 15: 1st line, should read "vineyard north of," instead of south. PREFACE This little volume is the result of a study since 1887. of the local history of this part of Florida, and incidentRlly of the e«rly history of the entire state: togrether with the desire thj^t somethine definite might be ascertained relative to the discovery of St. Andrews Bay, its earliest visitors, and subse- ouent history. In such work I have searched for information reli^tive to the first voyapfes made to this portion of the gulf: examining hun- dreds of books relative to the early history of this section ; its inhabitants: products, etc., and copied from such books and m^ns any fact that would aid in arriving at the facts relative to the e^rly historv of the St. Andrews Bay country. The work being restricted to a description of this im- mediate section, it does not touch upon much of the early history of what is now Bay county, and in that may be disap- pointing to many who had looked for such a work by the author. It is not divided into chapters, being rather a continuous series of historical notes, with data as to where original in- formation can be found, and in that may prove of value to the future historian of this section. Having been written week by week, as the publishing in a weekly newspaper demanded the installments, its literary value is not what it otherwise might have been, and an oc- casional subsequent find and narration of facts has possibly modified previous statements. However, if a more complete understanding is had from a study of these notes of the history of St. Andrews, the author will feel that the many hours of research employed on the work has been well worth while. G. M. WEST. "Old Town." St. Andrews. Florida, 1922. John Clark, From an oil painting in the Public Library at Atlanta, Ga. See page 29. St. Andrews, Florida By G. M. West St. Andrews undoubtedly received its name from some of the early Spanish navigators who explored the northeast Gulf coast in the 16th century, between 1516 and 1558. It has been said that "the course of the early Spanish explorers can be traced from Florida .... to California," by the place- names given by them to the physical features of the coast, and to the settlements made by these fearless adventurers. They were always accompanied by representatives of the Catholic church whose work was to Christianize the idolatrous Indians found, and their presence probably had much to do with the practice of naming the bays, capes and islands after the saint upon whose day they were discovered. Naming after saints is particularly noticeable on this part of the Gulf coast, extending from St. Marks on the e-^st to Saint Rose on the west, and in- cluding, besides these places, St. Teresa. St. Michael, St. George. St. Vincent St. Blaise, St. Joseph and St. Andrew. There is no other portion of the shore of the North American continent that has as many places named after saints, with as few other place names as has this two hundred and fifty miles of coast, which would lead to the belief that it received mark- ed attention from these early Spanish explorers. S-^int Blaise's day is February 3rd. v/hile February 4th is Saint Andrew Corsini's. This might indicate the naming of these two places consecutively and as having been done by a» explorer who came from the southeast of San Bias, that being 2 St. Andrews, Florida the present name of Saint Blaise. However there are other Saints Andrew, one being St. Andrew Avellino, of November 10th, and St. Andrew of November 30th. As to the identity of the explorer who named St. Andrew, or "St. Andrae" as it ap- pears on the old maps, it is impossible to now definitely say. Americus Vespuici, from whom America received its name, cruised along the north Gulf coast in the spring of 1498, and might possibly have visited St. Andrews Bay. In 1516, Diego Miurelo, a pilot in Cuba, made a trip along the west Gulf coast, surreptitiously trading with the Indians, He. had prob- ably made other such trading voyages before this date. A bay that had palm trees at its entrance was named the "Bay de Miurelo," as stated in the report of Bazares' voyage to this coast in 1558, and, as St. Andrews Bay marked the westernmost limit of the cabbage palm, and as there were a large number of these trees facing the entrance of the bay, and it being the only bay that had these trees at its entrance, in all probability this was the bay named after Miurelo, who undoubtedly had visited it in his trafficking with the Indians. Pineda, who was sent out by Garay on an exploring expe- dition of the shores of the north Gulf, is said to have visited this section of it. On the oldest map of this part of what is now Florida appears an inscription, "the land of Garay," but as these maps are indefinite as to locations, just where this land was can not be accurately stated. In 1521, Ponce de Leon made a voyage north along the west coast of Florida from the Tor- tugas, and is supposed by some historians to have come as far north as this part of the coast. In September, 1529, began the ill-fated voyage of Nar- varez and the remaining men of his expedition, in four poorly- constructed boats, westwardly along the coast from Apalache Bay, seeking to reach the Spanish settlements in Mexico. An account of this voyage was written by Cabeza de Vaca, treasur- er of the expedition and one of the four survivors, some eight years after it terminated, but as no notes were made, De Vaca writing his narration from memory alone, many portions of it are far from being a connected chronological record of the movements of the party. However, from a survey of local con- ditions, taken in conjunction with his statements, it is fairly well established that the members of this expedition visited St. Andrews, Florida 3 St. Andrews Bay in the late fall of 1529. In this connection, the narrative of De Vaca states that the party, after a long and stormy voyage, one evening at sunset turned a point of land and found shelter. He continues: "Many canoes came and the Indians in them spoke to us, but turned back w^ithout waiting. They were tall and well built and carried neither bows or arrows. We follow- ed them to their lodges, which were nearly along the in- let, and landed, and in front of the lodges we saw many jars with water, and great quantities of cooked fish. The chief of the land offered all to the Governor and led him to his abode. The dwellings were of matting and seemed to be permanent." The party was attacked by Indians that night, and had to take to their boats. None of them escaped unhurt. The next morning De Vaca and his party destroyed over thirty of their canoes. They then continued their trip westward, but were checked by storms on the Gulf. The narrative further states that the chief at the point where they landed w^s clothed in a robe of civet-martin skins, of a fawn color. These were undoubtedly the reddish skunk skins that are to be found more frequently along this shore than elsewhere. The houses were thatched with palm leaves (the "matting" of De Vaca), and it was only here that these trees were to be found near the entrance of the bay. The wo- men wore a short skirt made from the filaments of the palm, which they had undoubtedly gathered from the palms on the shores of this bay. These matters, together with the prevailing weather conditions, the islands observed at the entrance of the bay. and the existing evidences of ancient Indian habitations and encampments along these shores, strongly indicate that this is the point referred to by De Vaca, and is where the four boat loads of Narvarez' men landed. Another important cor- roborative item was the loss of a Greek here, who was captur- ed by the Indians, and when De Soto came through that part of Alabama north of here some years later, he came across a poinard which had been owned by the Greek, and learned that he had been in that section. In 1540, De Soto, who had reached Apalache Bay at the point where the Narvarez expedition built their boats, sent Mal- donado, one of his captains, to the westward in search of a 4 St. Andrews, Florida favorable harbor, and also sent a force by land. It is barely possible that one of these parties visited St. Andrews Bay and gave it its name. The next expedition that in all probability visited St. An- drews Bay was that of Guido de las Bazares who, with three vessels and a party of sixty soldiers, sailed from San Juan de Ulloa, on September 3, 1558, on an exploring expedition along the north Gulf coast. After touching the Texas coast, he turn- ed back until he came to the peninsula of Yucatan, then turn- ed northward and came upon the Gulf coast near the mouths of the Mississippi. From there he sailed eastward along the coast in search of Miurelo's Bay, and came to a bay with palm trees at its entrance, and which extended back from the shore. It would appear, in all probability, that this was St. Andrews Bay. The following year De Luna sailed from Vera Cruz with 13 vessels and a large number of colonists and supplies, destined for Bazares' Bay, where the Spanish authorities had decided to locate a colony. After sailing back and forth along this coast to locate the bay, which had been indifferently described to their pilots, in August they reached a bay they decided to be the one described in their orders, and proceeded to make a landing. On the night of September 19th the bay was visited by a trop- ical hurricane which lasted 24 hours, with constantly increas- ing violence. During this storm five of their ships, a galleon and a bark were destroyed, with a great loss of life and sup- plies. So severe was this storm, and so wrought up were these colonists in a strange land, that they swore they saw devils in the air. One of the caravels was swept into a forest more than an arquebuse shot from the shore. This mishpp to the expe- dition, with others that followed, broke it up. This is the first record of a tropical hurricane on these shores. The disaster to De Luna's expedition undoubtedly checked further exploration, or attempts at settlement of this portion of the coast for a long period of time. As a further reason for avoiding it, it was stated by DeVaca and other early explorers to have been inhabited by a race of Indians who were "tall and well built" and very valorous, as well as united. Although this latter description refers more particularly to the tribes that oc- cupied the territory between the Suwanee and Apalachicola St. Andrews, Florida 5 rivers, there are fragmentary accounts of their having outposts and settlements west of the latter river, which would bring them to this section of the coast, though, as is stated in the re- cords of these farmer Indians, these outer settlements were of a poorer class of the tribe, and unlike their relatives farther east, were engaged in fishing and hunting, rather than in the cultivation of the soil. However, it was customary for many of the inland tribes to come to the coast at certain seasons of the year, to secure fish and oysters and gather, in their season, the fruits of the cactus and Spanish dagger plant, as well as to perform certain religious ceremonies, drinking the "black drink" made from the leaves of the youpon, then bathing in the sea, these two latter as a "purification rite." That the eastern tribes of this nation were a strong and virile body, is shown by their reputation among even far away tribes, as is illustrated by the following speech of one of these latter Indians to DeSoto's men, when fighting near Withlacoochee : "Keep on, robbers and traitors, in Apalache you will receive that chastisement your cruelty deserves." DeVaca notes that they were very expert in the use of bow and arrows, and that they had been seen to shoot arrows through oaks that were as thick as the calf of a man's leg. The enormous shell heaps to be found on the shores of St. Andrews Bay, consisting principally of oyster shells, inter- spersed with those of the scallop andconch, are mute evidences that in the long ago, antedating the Indians that were found here by the early explorers, a people must have resided on the high hammocks to be found along the shore, who used these molluscs in large numbers for food. Live oaks, at least five hundred years old, were found growing on these mounds or shell heaps when the country was first settled by white people, while other oaks equally as old were rotting on the ground, in- dicating that generations of these trees might have grown on these mounds before those now there were in existence. In fact there are indisputable evidences of a people inhabiting the shores of St. Andrews Bay in the far distant past; who they were, where they came from, or what became of them, being one of the unsolved mysteries of this section. Some years ago the Philadelphia Academy of Natural Sci- ences sent an expedition to explore the many mounds found on this part of the Florida coast. Right here in the now City of 6 St. Andrews, Florida St. Andrews, on I. Godard's home lot in the West End, was found a burial ground which developed the fact that urn burial was practiced by these early inhabitants, this being, according to the report made, with one exception, the most easterly point where such a custom prevailed, indicating that this practice, which is found in the southwest, had probably been brought here by the early inhabitants from that section in a migration from there. No such mortuary practice has been found among the peninsula Indians or the aborigines of the peninsula of Flor- ida. Relative to the period from 1558 to 1700, but little has been made public as to discoveries or explorations on this por- tion of the Gulf coast. There are stored in the cellars of mon- asteries and convents in Spain, a mass of reports that were made by the Friars of that early day, relative to their efforts to establish and maintain missions in northern Florida, and of con- necting them up by highways which extended from the head- quarters of the missionaries at St. Augustine, to St. Marks, St. Joseph and Pensacola, but as to what information these reports contain relative to conditions as they then existed in this region, it is left for future investigators to discover and make public. Thomas Hutchins, in his notes relative to this coast, pub- lished in 1784, states that on one of his voyages he came to anchor in St. Joe Bay "just within the peninsula opposite some ruins that still remain of the village of St. Joseph. There the Spaniards had a post, which they abandoned about the year 1700, but they took possession of it again in 1719." Of the French fort near there he says: "In the year 1717 the French erected a fort which they called Crevecoeur, a mile to the northwest of a brook in St. Joseph Bay, opposite to the point of the peninsula, but abandoned it in the next year on the repre- sentation of the Governor of Pensacola that it beloged to his Catholic Majesty." Soon after its desertion by the French the Spaniards took possession of it. Just when it was permanently abandoned has not been ascertained. An early notice of this section, showing it to have been in- habited by Spaniards, and relative to the fort at St. Joe. is to be found in the 2nd volume of Charlevoix's Voyage, page 346. In describing a voyage from St. Marks westward along the coast, in May, 1722, he tells of running on to oyster bars in the west part of Apalachicola Bay, and after getting clear of them, St. Andrews, Florida 7 states that "We went to pass the remainder of the night in a country house belonging to a captain of Fort St. Joseph, called Dioniz, where at our arrival he told us strange news." From this it will be noted that a fort occupied by the Spaniards was there as late as 1722, and it must have been some time after that date that it was deserted. Charlevoix further says of this voyage: "Leaving St. Jo, we set out on the 30th, with the two shallops, and were saluted by the fort with five pieces of cannon. We advanced seven leagues that day. and came to anchor at the mouth of a river which came from a bay which opens to the southeast." Seven leagues from St. Joe would have brought this writer to the entrance of St. Andrews Bay, which has always had an opening to the southeast, and this is the second instance that we have found of this easterly pass being called a river. Un- doubtedly there was such a current setting out through it from the bay that navigators took it for a river. Although we have these facts showing the existence of a , settlement on St. Andrews Bay, there is nothing definite relative to any settlement on St. Andrews Bay, other than the extract from Robinson's letter in Roberts' Florida, noticed later on. The St. Joe settlement was the nearest point to St. Andrews Bay where white men had a settlement; but this bay does not ap- pear to have been occupied then, or before, by any large num- ber of Indians, and it being so far away from the Georgia-Caro- lina English settlements, it was not affected, as was the territory south of the Georgia line, by the continual fighting that was being carried on between the English colonists of the Carolinas and Georgia on one side and the Indians and Spanish of Florida on the other. This destructive warring was continued intermit- tently for over one hundred years, finally resulting in the break- ing up of the Spanish missions in North Florida and laying waste to what had become a prosperous section, with improved farms, much stock, many missions, and extensive highway im- provements. Regarding these Indians and their destruction, the "Hand- book of American Indians," published by the government, has the following to say : "The people were agricultural, industrious, and pros- perous, and noted above all the tribes for their fighting qualities, of which the Spanish adventurers had good proof. They continued resistance to the Spanish occu- 8 St. Andrews, Florida pancy until after the year 1600, but were finally subdued and Christianized, their country becoming the most im- portant center of missionary effort in Florida, next to the St. Augustine district. In 1665 they had 8 considerable towns, each with a Franciscan mission, besides smaller set- tlements, and a total population of 6,000 to 8,000. Their prosperity continued until about 1700, when they began to suffer from the raids of the wild Creek tribes to the north, instigated by the English government of Carolina, the Apalache themselves being strongly in the Spanish in- terest. These attacks culminated in the year 1703, when a powerful expedition under Gov. Moore, of Carolina, consisting of a company of white troops, with a thousand armed savage allies of various tribes, invaded the Apa- lache country, destroyed the towns and missions, with their fields and orange groves, killed the Spanish garrison com- mander and more than 200 Apalachee warriors, and car- ried off 1,400 of the tribe into slavery. Another expedit- ion about a year later ravaged the territory and completed the destruction." These Apalachees were the inhabitants of this part of North Florida before the advent of the Seminoles, who came from the northeast and occupied the devastated country some time later. Of the early Indians we know but little. They were somewhat noted as mariners, and it is stated by the ear- liest writers that voyages were made by them to Cuba, using canoes hollowed out of large cypress trees. The Bay country appears all through these years to have remained in possession of the Indians, and a few Spanish ad- venturers who led a rather precarious existence by fishing and hunting and the cultivation of small gardens surrounding their homes. Just where these homes were located can not now be determined, but from the orange and fig trees found by the earliest settlers, at Dyers point and other favorable locations about the bay, it may be safely surmised that they marked the homes of these early Spanish settlers, the seeds and sprouts from which these trees grew having been brought here from some near-by mission, or by the Friars visiting this bay. It is quite probable that it was the unimportance of the few Indians and Spaniards who were living on St. Andrews Bay that caused them to be overlooked, or unmolested, when the prosperous tribes to the eastward were destroyed, as has been narrated herein. The only reference found in narratives of the early naviga- tors and travelers to this immediate section, prior to the Eng- St. Andrews, Florida 9 lish occupation in 1763, is in a letter published in Roberts' Flor- ida, written by a gentleman named Thomas Robinson, who made a voyage from Pensacola to St. Marks in 1754. In writ- ing of this coast he says : "The shore level, rising gradually into eminences, clothed with the finest verdure, and spontaneous produc- tions, interspersed promiscuously, as mulberry, cedar, co- coa, vanilla, moho, and cabbage trees, etc.. the last tower- ing their round tops above the rest, as if conscious of its sovereign dignity. I discovered near to this coast several plats of ground, which appeared to be barakas of wood (like those I had seen on the Mexican coast) surrounded with pleasant little gardens and corn." The refernce to "cabbage trees" (cabbage palms) in this letter would indicate that the writer was viewing the land along the shores where St. Andrews city is now located, pos- sibly including the southern shore of the peninsula, and the garden plots and barakas (cottages or rural houses) were the homes of the few Spanish living here at that time. The settlement and the forts that were established on St. Joseph Bay indicate that Spanish missions, colonists and sol- diers, as well as the French, had given that bay attention at an early date, but St. Andrews Bay had apparently received but little notice. So little was known of the latter, even by those who were presumed to be acquainted with these shores, that Roberts, writing of the newly acquired British possessions in his work published in 1763, says: "The bay of St. Andrews lies seven miles to the N. W. of the Bay of St. Joseph, of which we have no particular description." However, it is evident from Robinson's letter, written in 1754, together with the finding of fig and orange trees by the first English settlers here at or about 1765, that there were some white settlers here, and possibly as early as there were any at St. Joseph, or about 1700. Spanish coins of an early date have been picked up on these shores, and various ancient clear- ings may have been the plats described by Robinson. Legend states that favored beaches, like that of Smack bayou, were used by the freebooters of the Gulf to careen and clean their vessels, when these pirates were preying upon the richly laden Spanish ships en route from Mexico to Spain, carrying their ill- gotten booty, the proceeds of robbery of the native temples, and of compulsory donations by the Indians. 10 St. Andrews, Florida The first charting of these shores, and of St. Andrews Bay, was done by Admiral Gauld, of the British Admiralty, who be- gan the work in 1764 and continued it through the next seven years. A copy of this chart may be found in the Congressional Library at Washington. One of the causes leading to this ex- tensive survey was the acquisition of the Floridas by England, and the necessity of that country having more accurate in- formation regarding this region than it heretofore possessed. The survey appears to have been quite thorough, and presents a very accurate delineation of St. Andrews Bay, thus named on this chart. Particular attention appears to have been given to that portion of the bay upon which St. Andrews is now located ; the points opposite ; the lagoon ; the freshwater lake ; East bay to the big bay beyond Long Point; the north and west shores of West bay; camel's back shoal, etc. A good anchorage is located as existing behind the end of the point extending from Wood's End to beyond where the east end of Hurricane island is at present, showing that the land was continuous from the westward to that point at that time. St. Andrews island, shown on this chart, lay to the eastward of where Hurricane island is now situated. It was quite a large island with a good-sized bay extending from the Gulf into the eastern portion of it. The bending inwards of the west point of this island and the east point of land's end would indicate that a storm had broken through the land that extended from the westward, and that this land was at an earlier date continuous to the east end of the island, and that there was but one en- trance to the bay, which lay between this island and the point that makes out from the east, now known as Crooked island. The channel into the bay at that time, however, was at the west end of St. Andrews island. This is the first map of St. An- drews Bay that is in any way correct, the earlier ones showing it to be a large circular body of water with a round island lying off its entrance and another within the bay situated about where St. Andrews stands today; probably an error growing out of the assumption by early observers that North and East bays were one large circle of water. Possibly the English settle- ments on the bay soon after the country was taken over by Eng- land were the cause of so much work having been done by these surveyors hereabouts. With the end of the Seven Years' War, Spain lost the Flor- idas to England, and they were formally transferred by the St. Andrews, Florida 1 1 Treaty of Paris in 1763. English officers were at once put in charge of the two territories, East and West Florida, who per- sonally did what they could to induce immigration at coast points, but no effort was made to settle the interior. The policy pursued by England in connection with her newly acquired ter- ritory has been pronounced "cold and selfish," in that it was. as then officially stated, solely for the purpose of "improving and extending the commerce, navigation, and manufactures of this kingdom (Great Britain)," and that "the extension of the fur trade depends entirely upon the Indians being undisturbed in the possession of their hunting grounds, and that all coloniz- ing does in its nature, and must in its consequences, operate to the detriment of that branch of commerce Let the savages enjoy their desert in quiet. Were they driven from the forests the peltry-trade would decrease." This mer- cenary national policy of Great Britain, not yet eradicated, re- sulted in but sparse and poor settlements along the shores of the country, and checked the development of the interior. This portion of Florida was under the governorship of Commodore George Johnstone, of the British Navy, a very en- ergetic and able man, who did what he could to draw immigra- tion to Pensacola, the seat of his government. Campbell in his Colonial Florida describes the Commodore's arrival at Pensa- cola as follows: "There came with him the Twenty-firsl British regi- ment as a garrison for the post, and also a number of civil- ians in search of fortune, or new homes; some as parasites, who are never absent where public money is to be dis- tributed, and others attracted by the charms of the dis- trict, under the delusive misrepresentations of which the immigrant is so often the victim." The governor's efforts to advance the colony present the first instance of promotion publicity in this part of Florida. Campbell says of this: "In November, 1764, Governor Johnstone, under instruc- tions from the British government — which from the first seems to have taken a deep interest in the development of its late ac- quisitions — published a description of the province for the pur- pose of attracting settlers." It would be interesting to read this first description of West Florida prepared to induce devel- opment thereof. As at the present time, the pensioning and re- muneration of the soldiery by grants of land was a prominent 12 St. Andrews, Florida issue. England saw in this project an opportunity of securing settlers for its new territories. Fairbanks describes this propo- sition as follows : "With the view of encouraging the speedy settlement of the newly acquired territories, the English governors were empowered and directed to grant lands without fee or charge to such reduced officers as had served during the late war and to such private soldiers as had been or who should be disbanded in America and were actually residing there, and who should personally apply for such grants, subject, at the expiration of ten years, to the same quit-rents as other lands in the provinces in which they were granted, as also to the same conditions of cultivation and improvement. These grants were to be apportioned to the rank of the applicants. A field officer was to re- ceive five thousand acres, a captain three thousand acres, a subaltern or staff officer two thousand, every non-com- missioned officer two hundred, and every private soldier fifty acres." That this opportunity to locate on lands by the English soldiery was taken advantage of here on St. Andrews Bay, is indicated by the old fields, now grown up to rosemary, along its shores, and the reports of Lieut. Bonnycastle and the histor- ian Williams, and locations shown on his map made from an investigation during the years 1821-1825, as well as by the first settlers of Wells. Lieut. Bonnycastle traveled through this section between 1800 and 1815, and in a work entitled "Spanish America," published in London in 1815, has the following to say about St. Andrews Bay: "Rivers: Saint Andrews river in 85.40 west longi- tude; 30.17 north latitude." In the matter of latitude these early navigators and charts differ from five to twenty miles, so the figures given by them can not be used in connection with the latitude or longitude of the present charts. The only three places that Lieut. Bonnycastle notes in West Florida were Pensacola, Wells, and Apalachicola, Of Wells he says: "Wells, a seaport on the west side of St. Andrews Bay. and in 30.25 north latitude, and 85.50 west longitude." As before stated, these locations can not be depended upon within twenty miles. That the seaport referred to was at or St. Andrews, Florida 13 near Dyers Point, is corroborated by other unimpeachable evi- dence. Williams in his "West Florida," written from facts gleaned by the travels of the author through this bay section between 1821 and 1825. says of Wells: "During the possession of the English, a town was be- gun about seven miles northeast from Pensacola, called Campbellstown Another on the east side of St. Andrews Bay, called Wells It is im- possible at this time, to obtain any exact knowledge of the proportions of either They all fell into decay after the English evacuated the country." From a descendant of a man named Wells, who came from Georgia or the Carolinas, and from whom the town undoubted- ly obtained its name, we find that it was of no little importarc^ during the English occupancy of this section, which continued from 1765 to 1781 or 1782, and during these eighteen years there was quite a little trade at this place, the other English settlers around the bay securing their supplies there, and the Indians in this section, trading at that point; of the latter th e must have been quite a number as Bartram in his travels through West Florida during this time notes an Indian villti^n' on the Apalachicola with some two thousand inhabitants. The first Masonic lodge in what is now Bay county, and possibly in West Florida was established at Wells under a charter from the Grand Lodge of England. Mr. Wells was one of the first worthy masters of this lodge, and his descend- ants have still in their possession his "lambskin apron." It is stated that, although offered equal privileges with the English settlers by the government, nearly all of the Spanish in this section moved elsewhere upon the English taking posses- sion of the country, some going to St. Joseph, but the most of them to the Spanish possessions, Cuba, etc. The very few im- provements that the indolent Spaniards had made were either sold to the English settlers or abandoned. The English immigrants were from various sections. Some undoubtedly were the fortune hunters who came over with Gov- ernor Johnstone; others were discharged soldiers; while in re- volutionary days, from 1775 to 1781. many so-called tories. who were run of out of Georgia and The Carolinas by the patriots, came into North Florida, and some of them were undoubtedly attracted to St. Andrews Bay. The English government offered a bounty for the produc- 14 St. Andrews, Florida tion of indigo and also for naval stores, and the few planters in this section produced both of these articles. That indigo was grown hereabouts is indicated by the plant being still found scat- tered about in waste places, a reminisence of the olden days when the growing of it was the principal business. It is stated that the yearly income from one man's work in producing indi- go was $175. The work was done by slaves. Besides the trading posts at St. Joseph and Wells, the firm of Panton, Leslie & Co., with headquarters at Pensacola, trad- ed with the settlers and Indians in this section, sending out goods by pack train and exchanging them for anything the oth- ers had to offer. Among the articles named as being received by this firm from these parties were pine timber, lumber, rosin, turpentine, pitch, cedar, indigo, salt beef, hides, cattle, tallow, bear's oil, salt fish, staves, shingles, honey, beeswax, myrtle wax, dried venison, deer skins, furs and peltry. Northeasterly along the shore of the bay from Dyers Point, are evidences of many old fields, extending for some miles. These plats of ground are now thickly covered with rosemary, in fact many of them have no other shrubbery, or even grass growing on them. ''Rosemary, that's for remembrance," says Shakespeare, and it is the irony of fate that these acres of fra- grant rosemary are all that remain as a remembrancer of those first English settlers on St. Andrews Bay. Williams' map of West Florida, drafted from information obtained by him in his investigation of this section between 1821 and 1826, shows that settlers had located at Bay Head, and also about where Lynn Haven is now situated. There are likewise indications of plantations having existed between Car- oline bayou and the Panama City west line on the live oak ham- mock in that locality, as well as at other points along the bay shore. These settlements were possibly originally made by the English ; by the soldiers who were given grants of land, as here- tofore noted. It was early discovered that the growing of grapes could be profitably carried on this section, and an order of the French government was promulgated at that time forbidding their growth in the new colonies, for fear of their coming into compe- tition with the vineyards of France. Bartram and others speak of choice grapes being grown at the Spanish missions, and those at St. Joseph are spoken of as being particularly fine. At an ^ L.-'/iiu-kteivnl Section of Williams' map, pub- lished in his '^West Florida," 1827, showmg the St. Andrews Bay Section and adjacent coun- try. See pages 14-15-20-21. St. Andrews, Florida 1 5 early date there was a large vineyard south of the present beach highway leading to Panama City, about one-fourth of a mile west of the western limits of that city, and within the pres- ent limits of the City of St. Andrews. Between the time that Gauld's survey of the bay and ad- jacent coast was made — 1764 to 1781, and the next oldest survey, that of Williams — 1821 - 1826, marked changes occur- red in the form and extent of the sand spit lying between St. Andrews Bay and the Gulf, giving evidence that one or more severe storms had swept this coast during that time, breaking through the low sand barrier and leaving three islands where there was but one in 1764. This breaking up of the sand spit resulted in the formation of what is now known as West Pass and also another opening — now closed — through Spanish Shanty Cove, and the removal of much of the material forming the spit by the storm-driven waters. No detailed account of the tropical storms visiting this section prior to 1840 has been found. The only names in this immediate section .shown on Gauld's chart are St. Andrew's Bay. St. Andrew's Island, St. Joseph's Bay, Cape Blaise (Cape San Bias), Choctawhatchee River, and Red Bluff, the latter being on the Gulf beach about due south of the eastern end of Choctawhatchee Bay. This "red bluff" has a historical significance in that the earliest navi- gators of this part of the Gulf refer to such a landmark near the entrance to a bay, which historians have sought diligently to locate, but, failing to find any reference to a red bluff or ham- mock near the entrance of any bay on this coast, have passed St. Andrews Bay by in their efforts to fix the locations of topo- graphical features of note discovered by these first navigators. From the references herewith published from early travelers in this immediate section to a "red bluff," it may be taken for granted that the bay discovered was that of St. Andrews. On Williams' map, the large island at the entrance of the bay is named "Hammock Island," with Crooked Island to the east of it and Sand Island to the west; the latter, according to his report, lying some three miles off shore. This island, it is evident, must have been formed by the outrush of a great storm tide from the bay, which tore through the barrier at Spanish Shanty Cove, carrying out with it the sand that formed the spit and depositing it as an island at the point referred to. Sand 16 St. Andrews, Florida Island could not have lasted for many years as the next map published, that of the U. S. Coast Survey — the topography of which was mapped in 1855, shows over three fathoms of water where, according to Williams, the island was situated. Of this island he says: "Sand island, a small island, three miles from the shore, and about one mile in length. Except some bunches of tall grass (uniola laitifolia), and some scurvy grass, or as it is called here, sea kale, it is totally barren. During summer it is wholly covered with eggs of sea fowl." It is possible that the storm that aided materially in the final destruction of St. Joseph in 1841, or that which destroyed the San Bias light house in 1851, might have swept this island out of existence, returning its sand to the barrier that is known as Land's End, as the chart of 1855 shows the barrier once more built up at this point. Williams' description relative to this island being covered with the eggs of sea-fowl, as well as the reference of DeVaca, in his visit to this shore in 1528, shows the great extent of bird life on these coast islands in those early days. This continued until the white man had permanently settled the country, possibly within the last 75 years, when their destruction began, and it has continued until many of the spe- cies that were once common here are now never seen on these shores. The name "Hurricane Island" does not appear on any of the charts prior to that issued by the government, designated the "Preliminary Chart of St. Andrew's Bay, Florida," dated 1855. It is quite possible that the storm of 1841, or that which swept this coast ten years later, gave this island the name it bears today. Early writers stated that it was quite heavily wooded, and as late as the year 1900 there .were quite a few old pines standing along the sand spit west of Land's End, the "Seven Pines," a prominent landmark there, having been the motif for a poem, so named, by a visiting tourist. The name "Hammock" (Williams' map) would indicate that it was hilly, and possibly covered with trees. The sand hills on the "Hurricane Island" of the 1855 chart are laid down as very prominent objects. The "Saddle Hills," extending from the west of Spanish Shanty Cove, along the Gulf beach, were likewise a marked topographical feature as late as 1900. Of the early sand hills on the large island at the entrance to this bay, Geographer Hutchins, who traveled along St. Andrews, Florida 17 this coast quite quite extensively during the early years of the English occupation, describes both these sand hills and the red hammocks marking the entrance to St. Andrews Bay as follows: "There is a high white sand hill, which is a remarkable object from the sea about ten leagues to the north- west of Cape Blaise." Speaking of the shore to the westward of the entrance, he says: "It is to be observed that the trees are thick and come close to the shore. There are likewise some red hummocks as well as white, which may be of service to know that part of the coast." Preliminary chart No. 1, issued by the government, being a survey of St. Andrews Bay made between the years 1849 to 1855, a minature copy of which can be found in Lieut. Col. Gilmore's published report on "Ship Canals Across Florida," 1880, the original chart being no longer in existence as shown by a search by the officials of the Coast and Geodetic Survey at Washington, gives the following names to places on St. An- drews Bay and the adjacent coast, beginning at the northwest side of the bay: Dyers Point, Buena Vista, St. Andrews, Clark — name of the postoffice and postmaster for the bay country, Redfish Point, and an unidentified place or point further east; thence to the lower part of the bay, commencing at the western part of the sketch map : Bear Point, Courteney's, Alli- gator, Big Lagoon Point, Blind Bay, Hurricane Island, East Pass, Crooked I., Bushy Sign, E. W., St. Andrews Sd., St. An- drews Pt., Desert; on the south side of the peninsula: Davis- Point, High Woods, Penny, Sand Bluff, Nunrod's camp, and Franklin, the latter near the head of what is now Crooked Is- land Sound. This chart was used by Gilmore in illustrating his proposed canal from the Atlantic to the Mississippi, the first published map of such a project. The canal left the head of Crooked Island sound, passing through the low land near the coast to what is designated as Lake Searcy, thence to Lake Wimico, through it and on to the Apalachicola River, Apalachi- cola and beyond. This cutting between Crooked Island Sound and Lake Wimico he puts down at 19 miles in length. The canal was to enter Lake Wimico at a place named Bayou Columbus. It has been found necessary, in arriving at the genesis of names and conditions hereabouts, to publish data that has to do with adjacent territory beyond the limits of the present city of St. Andrews, and it is impossible to separate the history of the bay from that of the city. This in explanation of much that lo St. Andrews, Florida has appeared, and which will appear in the future relative to this immediate part of the country outside of the city limits. Unlike any portion of these United States which was a part thereof in Colonial days, no descendants of the first in- habitants of the St. Andrews Bay country, or even of this por- tion of West Florida, are to be found here today. Spanish su- premacy appears to have destroyed every settlement and caus- ed the removal to other countries of the inhabitants thereof, resulting in a complete abandonment of the country. Not even the name of any of these early settlers remains attached to any locality, or natural object here. What has come down to us in this direction can be traced back to names given by the early navigators of the Gulf, Indian names, or those of natural phenomena. That the Spaniards who settled on St. Andrews Bay be- tween 1700 and 1763 were largely from the mission settlement at St. Joseph, is altogether probable. The English settlement of Wells, between 1764 and 1781, manifests from its name and family history in the Wells family that it was partly, or largely settled by Georgians and Carolinians, who came here owing to this bay country being English territory, and who undoubtedly had heard of its charms from travelers and traders. By the Treaty of Peace of 1783, the Floridas again came into possession of the Spaniards. The English at once depart- ed, some going to the new United States, which had become one of the nations of the earth ; others going to Jamaica and other British colonies. In a way it was a parallel of the Acadians leaving their homes, which has been immortalized by Long- fellow in Evangeline : "Waste are those pleasant farms, and the farmers forever departed ! Scattered like dust and leaves, vi^hen the mighty blasts of October Seize them, and whirl them aloft, and sprinkle them o'er the ocean. Naught but tradition remains of the beautiful village of Grand-Pre." Of the return of the Spaniards in 1784, the historian Fair- banks says: "Upon the reoccupation of Florida by the Spaniards in 1784 but few of the former inhabitants returned. They had become settled in other lands, and made new occupa- tions. The fine estates upon the coast and on the St. John's River left by the retiring English proprietors remained un- occupied, a prey to that rapid decay which so soon re- claims to native wildness the labor of years." St. Andrews, Florida 19 Another writer, the historian Williams, writing at a nearer date to these occurrences, in his "West Florida" of 1827, says: "The recession of the Floridas to Spain operated as a blight over the whole face of the country. The English population removed en masse; abandoning their villages and fields in the country, and their houses and gardens in the cities, they sought shelter among the islands of the West Indies. They were succeeded by a military popula- tion, who barely existed on their pay, wholly inattentive to improvements: the fields and gardens grew up in briars and bushes, and the fences and houses either rotted down, or were burned for fuel. In the space of forty years, the once flourishing settlements of Florida dwindled down to two ragged towns, which, with all their dependencies, could not muster six thousand inhabitants." Of the homes of the English settlers, Williams says: "Neatness, cheerfulness, and plenty, were conspicu- ous in the houses; and industry, health, and abundance, in the gardens and fields." That Wells possessed many of the characteristics thus spoken of is attested by its having a Masonic Lodge there ; as such a lodge would not be instituted, or continued, in a place devoid of intelligent and active citizens. None of the English settlers are known to have ever re- turned to their old homes here. Abandoning the comfortable houses that they had erected and occupied; the fruitful groves and fields with which they had surrounded them; the graves of their loved ones who had died during their occupancy of the land, and which they had watched over and tenderly cared for, never to see them again ; such was the fate of the settlers who were virtually driven out of this section upon its reoccupa- tion by the Spaniards in 1784, Of the time intervening between this occupation and the purchase of Florida by the United States in 1819, followed by its occupation in 1821, but little is known of this immediate sec- tion. No permanent settlements were made on St. Andrews Bay, and all that history tells us of this place is that there were a few poor Spanish fishermen located on the shores of the bay. Owing to the constant fighting that was going on in North and West Florida during these thirty-five years, between the In- dians and their aids, the runaway negroes from the Georgian plantations; and United States forces, twice under General Jackson ; with the Creek Indians of Georgia, making forays 20 St. Andrews, Florida upon the Seminoles of this section ; it also being a hiding place for the renegades from both the British army and the Colonial forces which had been stationed in the Carolinas and Georgia ; no progress toward development of the country could take place, and North Florida became but little other than a barren fighting ground, a "no man's land," occupied by but a few peo- ple, and they were of a nomadic character. But information regarding this section of the state had reached the states of Georgia and the Carolinas, possibly through the return home of Jackson's, Clark's, or other troops who had been through West Florida, and with the acquisition of Florida by the United States, it was not long before hardy pioneers from these states and others had begun moving into West Florida. The fishing afforded by the waters of St. An- drews Bay caused many planters from Alabama and Georgia to make trips to this point, bringing along a sufficient number of slaves to do the fishing, and taking, salting, and carrying home a large number of fish with which the diet of the planta- tion could be varied. Conditions existing here about 1820, and probably some little time before, are set forth on the map made by Williams, and in his book, from data secured by him while he was travel- ing through this section between 1820 and 1826. In the pre- face to his "West Florida," published in 1827, he says: "The following pages are the result of the occasional employment of the writer, while engaged in other pursuits, during a residence of seven years in Florida. His atten- tion was first attracted to the subject by remarking the singular deficiency of the maps of West Florida, in his frequent excursions through the country. Having been appointed one of the commissioners for locating the new seat of government of Florida, the author, for his own satisfaction, made a minute survey of the coast, from St. Andrews bay to the Suwanee, as well as the interior of the country in which Tallahassee is situated." In 1837 Williams published a more extensive work en- titled "Williams' Florida." This embodied additional informa- tion that the author had gathered during the time intervening between the 1827 and 1837 publications. In this latter work he says of this section : "Among the various improvements of the Map, I have inserted a complete outline of St. Andrews bay. This ex- tensive sheet of water had never been examined by any of St. Andrews, Florida 21 the surveyors of our coast or of the public lands, and the sketches on all our charts and maps represent anything but a correct delineation of one of the finest harbors on the Gulf of Mexico." We have never been able to find a copy of this latest chart of St. Andrews Bay by Williams. In our own copy, and many that we have examined, the map has been removed. Of Wil- liams' character and work, the historian Brinton, in his review of the literature of Florida, published in 1859, says: "His style is eminently dry and difficult to labor through, and must ever confine the History to the shelf as a work of reference, and to the closet of the painful stu- dent. Yet with all its faults — and they are neither few nor slight — this is the most complete work ever published concerning the territory of Florida ; it is the fruit of years of laborious investigation, of absorbing devotion to one object, often of keen mental and bodily suffering, and will ever remain a witness to the energy and zeal of its writer.' It is to the indefatigable work of Williams that we are in- debted for the meagre descriptions, but quite accurate map- ping of the St. Andrews bay country as it was between the years 1815 and 1826. Though he did not visit here until about 1820, yet he noted what had been the conditions during the pre- vious years, that were still in such perceptible form as to per- mit of a fair description thereof. His map of West Florida to be found in his 1827 publica- tion is of inestimable value. It is well drawn, and contains a vast amount of valuable information. An inset shows Pesacola as it was when that city was taken over by the United States, an interesting illustration taken in connection with its present lim- its, of how that city has extended its limits bayward during the past one hundred years. This map has also an inset showing the bar and entrance to Pensacola bay at that time. St. Andrews Bay is fairly well depicted thereon so far as the main bay is concerned, the east shore of North bay, the La- goon, and the interior country north of this bay to the Alabama state line. Big Oyster Point is thus named and placed as on present maps; also Oyster Point at the present location of Lit- tle Oyster Bar, with Col. Loftin's home a short disance north- east of the latter point, between it and what was named East Creek. Between the latter and Bear Creek, thus named on this map, and about where Bay Head is now located, two homes are shown, being the residences of Ormond and Young. On 22 St. Andrews, Florida the east side of the Econfina is shown a residence marked Wood, to the north of which is the natural bridge on the Econ- fina. That stream was crossed here by the highway running from Tallahassee to Pensacola. West Bay was named Wapaluxy Bay, the Indian name for round bay. Shackleford & Merlet are down with two houses in Holmes Valley, on the east side of Holmes Creek, north of its junction with Hard Labor Creek. These names for these streams were evidently of older origin than 1820. To the northeast were Hickory and Oak Hills, as at present, and still further northeast was Webbville, Judge Robinson's ferry, another ferry just east of Webbville, just be- low Russ Creek, to the north of which was Samlocks Creek. Williams had a very high opinion of the bay of St. An- drews. Of it, in his "Florida" of 1837, he says: "St. Andrews Bay was, until lately, almost unknown. At some future time, it must become a place of importance. It is easy of access, has eighteen feet of water on the bar, has good anchorage and is perfectly sheltered from all winds. Its various arms are very capacious, some of them extend thirty miles into the country. The north and east- ern division extend to the rich settlements of Chipola, the principal part of the trade of which passes through this bay. The main entrance is between Sand Island and Hammock Island. Another channel between Hammock and Crooked Islands is almost as good, but is not so direct to the sea. The main body of the bay extends north twelve miles, and thus far, averages from two to five miles in width. One mile from the sea beach, an arm about one mile wide runs westward, parallel with the coast, for twenty miles. Ten miles from the sea, another arm branches off to the eastward thirty miles. This arm is in some places ten, and in others not more than one mile wide. It approaches within seven miles of the Chipola Inundation. A company has been incorporated to connect the two waters. Should this be carried into effect, St. An- drews will command the trade of the Apalachicola River. "The Wapaluxy Bay recedes from St. Andrews, fif- teen miles from the sea, on the western side of the north arm. It is a circular basin about twelve miles in diameter, and is from twelve to fourteen feet deep. It is surrounded by low flat pine barren, a creek enters the western border, which interlocks with the pond branch of the Choctaw- hatchee. Four miles above Wapaluxy, on the north arm, is Little Oyster Point, thus far any vessel may ascend that can cross the bar. P>om this point to the head of the bay is eight miles, the water gradually shoals to seven feet. Here, at the warehouses of Sewal and Bower, the produce St. Andrews, Florida 23 of the interior country is shipped. At this point the Econ- fina River enters the bay. The sound behind Hammock Island affords shelter for vessels drawing 18 feet of water, and is easy of access at either end of the island." The project of connecting the waters of the Atlantic and the Gulf by a canal was warmly supported by Territorial Re- presentative J. M. White, who, in 1825, introduced a bill in congress "for the survey of a route for a canal between the Atlantic and the Gulf of Mexico," which was passed, the senate amending to read, "by which the survey will be extended west, through the bays of St. Andrews. St. Rosa, Pensacola, Perdido, Mobiles and Pascagoula, and through lakes Borgne and Pont- chartrain. to the Mississippi, by the Iberville, or the canal Ca- rondolet." If this survey was ever made, no record of it can now be found in Washington. This action of the senate appears to be the beginning of the Atlantic to Mississippi inland waterway, which was to include St. Andrews Bay in its route. Although we have the names and locations of settlers on the northern part of St. Andrews Bay, who came shortly after the purchase of Florida from Spain, the first to settle on the north shore of the main bay, or as it was called on the early charts, "St. Andrews Bay," — north, east and Wapaluxy being the old names given to what is now regarded as St. Andrews Bay as a whole — was ex-Governor John Clark, of Georgia, who, in 1827, removed from Milledgeville, then the capital of Georgia, to what is now known as "Old Town," erecting a house on the property where G. M. West subsequently built his home in 1887. This spot was undoubtedly chosen because of the fine spring on the rear of the home lot, the grand view of the bay and gulf from the bluff, and the fine grove of live oaks and magnolias with which the site was wooded. Why Governor Clark, as he was called, should have come to St. Andrews, can only be surmised. He might have accom- panied his father. Major Elijah Clark, in some of his incursions into the Floridas when they were owned by Spain. The latter was as bitter against the Spaniards as was General Jackson, and like all other Georgians, complained bitterly at the treat- ment accorded that colony by the government, as regarded the failure to remove the Creek Indians. In Fuller's "Purchase of Florida," we find the following 24 St, Andrews, Florida reference to these matters, and as to his being commissioned a Major-General in the French service as a reward for his op- erations against the Spaniards: "Genet had found an active lieutenant in General Elijah Clark, an officer of prominence in the Revolution, v^ho had for some time been an active disturber of the peace on the Florida border. First a leader in unwarrant- ed violations of the McGilvray treaty of 1790, he made war on the Indians and the Florida Spanish. Under Ge- net's advice and assistance he formed a party in Georgia, called the Sans Culottes, based on hatred of the Spanish, and sympathy for the French control of the Spanish-Amer- ican possessions. He was guilty of the grossest violations of neutrality and repeatedly attacked the Spanish posts." It might be inferred from the foregoing extract that Elijah Clark was very much of a brigand, but he was, as is stated elsewhere in this history, "a man of honor and standing in the South." It was the constant irritation arising from the McGilv- ray treaty with the Indians, made by the government against the rights and protests of Georgia, and the attacks upon the frontier settlements by the Indians, that caused General Clark to follow them into Florida and punish them severely, and in this he was always upheld by the colony of Georgia and his acts approved by the people of the Carolinas as well. And it was this constant friction that brought about the early purchase of the Floridas by this country. It might have been possible that General John Clark accompanied his father on some of these raids, and in that way became acquainted with the charms of St. Andrews Bay. He was with his father during the Revolu- tionary campaigns, and very likely assisted him in these later operations in Florida. John Clark was a national character, his reputation ex- tending far beyond the limits of the state of Georgia. He was the oldest son of Elijah Clark, and was born in North Carolina on February 28th, 1766, soon being taken to Wilkes county, Georgia, where his father had located in 1774. At the age of fourteen he was sent to school in Wake county, North Caro- lina, but did not remain there long, for when a company was being recruited to go out scouting against the tories, John join- ed the patriot band, thus ending a schooling that had been all too brief and beginning his public career at the early age of fourteen or fifteen years. His two brothers enjoyed far better educational advantages, and one, Gibson, was one of the first St. Andrews, Florida 25 graduates of the then University of Georgia. At six. ien John was appointed a lieutenant, and then a captain of tVe Militia. In the force commanded by his father, he fought at the siege of Augusta, and at the battle of Jacks Creek in 1787. Li his Revo- lutionary career he greatly distinguished himself, his v^alor and ability bringing him recognition from the state legislature, which elected him to the position of Brigadier-General, and then Major-General of the State Militia. Near the close of the War of. 1812, when the British threatened the South Atlantic coast, Major-General Clark was appointed by Governor Early to take charge of the coast defenses, and the southern bound- ary of Georgia. In the fight at Musgrove's Mills on August 17th, 178' both Captain John Clark and his father were wounded. An incident of this fight illustrates the character of the elder Clark, whom the son was very much like. This incident is de- scribed as follows: "Col. Clark fought desperately and received two sabre cuts on the back of his neck. At one time he was actually surrounded by the enemy and in charge of two stout cavalrymen. Renowned for his strength and activ- ity, he knocked one of them down, put the other to flight, and liberated himself from his unpleasant situation. Col. Clark was every inch a hero." Further reference to him is made by this author as fol- lows: "In feat of arms he was ever plucky and powerful. He was the most noted partizan leader in Georgia." In the many conflicts between the Georgians and the Indians and Spaniards. Major Clark was ever a leader, and in those affairs occurring soon after the close of the Revolutionary War, his son John ac- companied him. In acknowledgement of Major Elijah Clark's services to the colony, the legislature of Georgia presented him with a plantation. With the close of his army career, John Clark became a prominent political figure in Georgia. In 1816 he was chosen elector of president and vice-president. The Democratic-Re- publican party, as the party which Thomas Jefferson had founded was then called, was the only party in Georgia, but it was divided in that state into two factions, one headed by William H. Crawford, the other by John Clark. Between the leaders of these factions there was bitter rivalry and personal animosity which existed throughout their lives, and this enmity 26 St. Andrews, Florida extended to their large and almost equal following. When Crawford was forced by ill health to retire from public life, one of his ardent admirers, G. M. Troup, became the leader of that faction of the party, and from thence on the fight was between Troup and Clark. Clark was elected governor of Georgia in 1819, and re- elected in 1821, the terms being for two years each, with a re- striction to two consecutive terms. This brought his term of office as governor to an end at the close of the year 1823. In the early part of the Crawford-Clark embroilment they fought a duel, and although Crawford was considered a dead shot and had killed one man in a duel, he was wounded in his wrist by Clark's fire, thus ending the affair. Governor Clark was devotedly attached to his family. He had a very beautiful daughter named Mary, and it is said that this duel'grew out of some disparaging remarks made by Crawford regarding Mary Clark. For the next four years Clark headed the opposition to Troup, and at the election in 1825 was agailn a candidate for governor, Troup being his opponent. The contest was the first wherein the people cast their votes for governor. The returns showed that Troup was elected by a majority of but 625, while the majority of the legislature were of the Clark party, and had the election been held under the old system, by the legisla- ture, Clark would have been again elected governor. He continued to take an active part in the politics of the day until 1827, when he decided to retire from public life, and in a speech before his neighbors and old friends at Milledge- ville he stated that he desired to retire from the cares of a busy life and pass the remainder of his days in peaceful quietude, and in accordance with that decision, at the age of 63, he moved from Milledgeville, Ga., to the location he had selected for a home on the north shore of St. Andrews Bay. Here he erected a commodious house on the bluff, near the shore and fronting the bay. This house was one story in height, constructed of hewn pine logs, sixty feet in length, with an extension to the north which was used as a kitchen, etc. There were two large fire-places in the main part of the house, one on each end. Governor Clark also operated a plantation on the south side of Moccasin Creek, in what is known as the St. Andrews, Florida 27 Econfina settlment. He was appointed, through the influence of his friend President Jackson, to theoffice of care-taker of government timber in this section, the live oak and pine, and that he faithfully discharged his duties in this respect is attested by a statement made by W. A. Gainer, in his reminisences, that at an early day Governor Clark stopped the cutting of pine which was being manufactured into lumber at Colvin's mill. At that date no land in this section had been surveyed and none was being sold. Old residents, both white and negro, have told the writer of being at Governor Clark's house, and spoke of their children who were at home ; also of trees that were planted by the gov- ernor. One of these, a fig tree, it is said was planted at the corner of the kitchen in 1827, and is still thriving, a large pur- ple fig, from the cuttings of which came most of the figs of this variety grown about the bay. The mint in the garden also dates from the governor's days here. Two grandchildren, as shown by the white Italian marble slab above their graves, near the residence of the governor, died and were buried here, the inscription reading: Erected to the memory of the children of JOHN W. & ANN W. CAMPBELL ANN MARIA Born 24th Janv 1823 Died 3rd Sept 1829 MARCUS ERWIN Born 25th Feby 1831 Died 3rd Feby 1833 Ann W. Campbell was one of the daughters of Governor Clark and wife, and must have lived here for some time with them. It is stated that members of the family lived in the old home for some years after the death of the governor and his wife. There was a charm about that seaside home which the governor sought for "peaceful quietude," that those of the present day cannot realize. Surrounded by some of their child- ren, often visited by old friends from Georgia, where the gov- ernor had been scarcely less idolized by his people than was General Jackson in Tennessee, looking out from the broad 28 St. Andrews, Florida verandah of his home upon the beautiful waters of St. An- drews Bay, enjoying the sailing, fishing and bathing that it and the Gulf beach afforded, life was idyllic. "On his bold visage middle age Had slightly pressed its signet ring. Yet had not quenched the open truth And fiery vehemence of youth ; Forward and frolic glee was there, The will to do, the soul to dare." The nearest postoffice was Webbville, some sixty miles distant. There were warehouses where the common neces- sities of life could be obtained at Bay Head, on Cedar Creek, and on the river in Holmes valley. However, Governor Clark had a very fine yacht, with which trips were made to New Or- leans. Pensacola, and other places, and at such times house- hold necessities and luxuries were obtained. Until Captain Loftin, in 1830, built and occupied his house, which was about a mile east along the beach from the governor's home, the Clarks had no neighbors within many miles. When Clement and Exum surveyed this portion of the country in the fall of 1831, and in 1832, they recorded in their field notes but two houses on this beach, Capt. Loftin's, about 360 feet from the start of the meander line at the south-east corner of section 6, and Governor Clark's house about 528 feet from the south- west corner of this fractional section. They also noted a road running through the north line of section 5, which they marked "road to Governor Clark's." This was the road leading from his residence to and across Bayou George, and northerly through the Econfina settlement, to Webbville, and on into Georgia. In the fall of 1832, Governor Clark made a trip on his yacht to New Orleans. Yellow fever was prevalent there that fall, as it usually was every year. The governor brought the fatal germs home with him and died from the effect thereof on October 12th, 1832. His wife passed away on October 26th, death being caused by the same disease. These two cases, with one of a man on East Bay who contracted the disease at St. Joseph, are the only cases of yellow fever ever known on St. Andrews Bay. In the light of present day knowledge of the cause and spread of yellow fever, it would appear probable that there were but few mosquitoes here at that time to dis- seminate the disease, and it ended with these two cases. St. Andrews, Florida 29 Whether Mrs. Clark accompanied her husband on this trip to New Orleans, and there acquired the germs of the disease, is not definitely known, although it is quite probable that such was the case. They were both buried about three hundred feet east of their home on a lot which was then used for burial purposes. The Clark monument, and a slab showing where the grand- children were buried, are now at the rear of Mrs. Mary Moore's residence in Old Town. If others were buried there, as has been stated by old residents, nothing remains to mark their graves. Joseph F. Massalena, a Spanish subject, and a free negro, part Spaniard, who lived to the age of 110, dying some years since at his home on the peninsula, has told the writer of being present at the burial of Governor Clark, and as- sisting thereat. Gilmer, in his "Georgians," published in 1855, and who was governor of Georgia while Governor Clark was living at St. Andrews, states that Jackson's appointment of Clark as "keeper of the public forests of Florida" carried with it a lu- crative salary, and that he was hospitable and kind to every- body who came into his neighborhood. An oil painting of the governor hangs in the state library at Atlanta. Gilmer's sketch of Governor Clark gives many interesting incidents connected with his career, and as he and his biographer lived and held office contemporaneously, Gilmer's information is undoubtedly accurate, although possibly tinged with prejudice by reason of a disagreement between them. This affair illustrates a prominent characteristic of Gov- ernor Clark's temperament. It is said that the governor, with some of his family, was passing through Lexington, Ga., where Gilmer lived. The latter was a bachelor and decided that he would call on the governor's pretty daughter at the hotel. The governor invited him in for a chat, and in conversation regard- ing prominent Georgians, Governor Clark made reflections upon some of the state officers. In this Gilmer was in accord with him. The governor then brought charges against his old enemy, William H. Crawford, at that time a member of the United States Senate. Gilmer at once stated that he thought tho charges were unjust. There was then a silence and Gilmer, seeing that he had offended the governor, withdrew. 30 St. Andrews, Florida His remaining children, Ann W. Campbell and Wiley- Clark, some three years after the death of their father and mother, erected the shapely [talian marble shaft that marks the last resting place of the parents, who idolized their children. The inscriptions on this monument are as follows: (North side) JOHN CLARK Born February 28th, 1766 Died October 12th, 1832 As an officer he was vigilant and brave, As a statesman, energetic and faithful. And as a father and friend, devoted and sincere. (South side) NANCY CLARK Born May 1st, 1774. Died October 26th, 1832. The wife, mother and christian in all ; Not from the cold dictates of duty; But the warm affection Of a pure and virtuous mind. (East side) Here reposes the remains of John Clark late governor of Georgia, and : Nancy Clark his wife. (West side) This monument was erected by his surviving children Ann W. Campbell and Wiley Clark. The following resolutions passed by a mass meeting held at Milledgeville, Ga., upon receipt of the news of the governor's death, as published in a Milledgeville paper of that date, fur- ther illustrate the distinctive qualities of Governor Clark : "A large number of citizens from every part of the state assembled at Milledgeville on the evening of the 16th (November, 1832), to express their feelings at the death of our late estimable fellow citizen General John Clark, formerly Chief Magistrate of the State, when John Wood was appointed Chairman, and Joseph Sturges, Esq., was appointed Secretary of the meeting. St. Andrews, Florida 31 "The following preamble and resolutions were sub- mitted by John C. Cuthbert, Esq., and were unanimously adopted : " 'This assembly of the citizens of Georgia convened on the afflictive intelligence of the decease of our late dis- tinguished citizen, and of his respected consort, with strong emotions of grief feel it to be a melancholy but a grateful duty to render honor to departed worth. In the death of General John Clark his country has sustained a severe bereavement, and his friends have suffered an ir- reparable loss; but his memory will live long in the hearts of his countrymen, and his example will light them to the paths of honor and patriotism. " 'In the green days of his unripened boyhood, we honor that ardent courage which prom.pted him to encoun- ter the dangers of battle, and that unshaken constancy which sustained him in enduring the hardships and priva- tions of the camp. At the age of fourteen, he was a soldier of the revolution. " 'In his mature years, we admire that integrity of heart, that warmth of affection, and fixedness of purpose, which marked him as an upright man, a disinterested pat- riot, a generous and constant friend, a pure, energetic and constant statesman. We revere that unalterable resolu- tion and inflexible virtue, which never yielded to an en- emy, which never forsook a friend, which never swerved from duty to his country. " 'Be it therefore Resolved, That in honor of his mem- ory, and in token of grief at his decease, and of his respect- ed, admirable and pious consort, his partner in life and death, we will, and his friends throughout the state are requested to wear crape on the left arm for thirty days. " 'Be it further Resolved, That the proceedings of this meeting be published in the Gazette of the State ; and that a copy be sent to the surviving kindred of the deceased.' " In the records of the D. A. R., a Mrs. Nancy Clark Williams Moore states that Governor Clark's wife's name was Nancy Williams, and that one daughter was named Nancy Williams Clark. It is known that there was also a daughter named Mary, and one named Ann W., and a son named Wiley. We have been unable to locate other children of Governor Clark and wife, if there were any. The house that the governor built was one of those destroy- ed when the town of St. Andrews was shelled by a Federal gunboat, in December, 1863. Although not a house in the place escaped destruction, and cannon balls cut off many trees, 32 St. Andrews, Florida no damage was done to the monument that stood in the midst of the little hamlet. Although his handiwork has been destroyed and his mem-' ory is almost a forgotten page of history, yet about his old home and by his grave the mocking birds continue to usher in the day with their matins and greet the evening star with their vespers ; the whip-poor-will repeats its plaintive notes through- out the night from the magnolias and cedars, the waters ripple upon the sandy beach, and he storm tides send forth their deep- er notes from the shores of the Gulf as they did when Governor Clark and his estimable and pious wife were charmed and solaced by these sounds from Nature's choirsters. The world may have forgotten this remarkable man, but these songsters and the endless rush of the waters have never failed to chant their requiem over the secluded, forgotten and uncared-for grave of this earnest patriot, devoted friend and affectionate parent; Nature's never-ending tribute to an honest, courageous and virile man. The next family to settle within the present limits of St. Andrews, after Governor Clark's, was that of William Loftin, who removed from his home on North Bay to the house he had built, a mile east of the Clark home, in 1830. Mr. Loftin was a prominent character in the early days of St. Andrews Bay. He came from North Carolina, where he was a surveyor and planter; he had served in the War of 1812, and was an ener- getic, far-sighted man. It is stated by his descendants that he probably came here soon after the close of the 1812 conflict. He was engaged with Representative J. M. White and Henry Rivere in an effort to establish a city on East Bay. west of Parker, and laid it out, naming it Austerlitz. He removed from his residence east of Clark's to the new location near the pres- ent site of Parker, probably when engaged in promoting that venture. He was in charge of the custom house at that point at one time, and was granted by the legislature the right to operate a ferry between Ferry and Military Points, where the old military road to St. Joe crossed East Bay. On November 5th, 1835, William Loftin bought of the government the west half of the southwest quarter of section 13, township 4 south, range 14 west, and on November 15th of the same year, pur- chased the north half of the northwest quarter and the south- west quarter of the northwest quarter of section 12. It was St. Andrews, Florida 33 probably somewhere about this date that he built him a house nrnr Parker. Mrs. Eliza Porter Mashburn, who resided here in St. Andrews many years before her death in 1918, stated that her mother was William Loftin's daughter, and that she, Mrs. Mashburn, nee Porter, was born at Port St. Joe in 1840. An- other daughter married Peter Parker, Sr. William Loftin died in 1845, and his was one of the earliest burials in the Parker cemetery. There was intense rivalry between the parties who hoped to establish a metropolis, possibly the state capital, on the shores of St. Andrews Bay, and the city of St. Joseph, which is illustrated in the following rather sarcastic account by Peter W .Gautier, Jr., editor of the St. Joseph Times, of a trip made to St. Andrews Bay in September, 1839. He says: "We visited the old settlement near the pass, now de- serted and decaying, and then turned to the new city of Austerlitz, which is divided into four municipalities, the whole city at present consisting of one dwelling house, and appurtenances in the suburbs. The center of the city would be an appropriate spot to say 'How sweet is soli- tude' if anyone could ever be enticed there to listen to the remark." From which it would appear that the cit'zens of St. Joseph were not actively engaged in promoting Austerlitz, and used twentieth century methods of oxpressing their antav'onism. 1 oftin and Rivere had explored this country very thor. uj^hly between 1820 and 1835 and had secured a num.ber of outside capitalists, probably from the northeastern part of the country, to join them in promoting a port and city on this bay. These capitalists came, inspected both St. Andrews Bay and St. Jo- seph, and concluded to invest at the latter place. Loftin and Rivere asked for the money they had invested in the company, which was paid over, and the promotion was broken up. Florida had been in the possession of the United States for some ten or twelve years before any effort was made to survey this section of the state, and until that was done, no title could be given to the land. This immediate vicinity was surveyed by Clement, Exum & Clement, in the second quarter of 1831, and the first quarter of 1832. For this work they received $4 per mile of line located. Nearly all of the land lying along the shores of St. Andrews Bay was reserved by the government at 34 St. Andrews, Florida the time of the survey and was not released until many years afterward. The first census taken in Florida was that of 1830. At that time Washington county, in which St. Andrews was locat- ed, had but 978 population; Jackson county had 3,907, Wal- ton 1,207, and Escambia 2,518. This comprised all the popula- tion of West Florida at that date. In the early '30s some of the Jackson county planters used to come to St. Andrews during the fishing season and make this their headquarters while taking and salting down quantities of fish for use on their plantations. St. Joseph was started in 1836, but before that time parties on St. Andrews Bay had secured a charter to construct a canal, their organiza- tion to be called the St. Andrews and Chipola Canal Company. This act of the territorial legislature was approved by the gov- ernor on February 10th, 1832. Nothing appears to have come of this incorporation, and the panic of 1837 undoubtedly end- ed all prospects of raising funds for such work. However, it continued to be talked of, for in Turner's "Canals and Railroads of the United States," published in 1840, among the proposed works noted was a "Canal from St. Andrews Bay to Chipola." On July 4th, 1832, congress passed a bill appropriating $3,000 for a survey for canal purposes, between St. Andrews and Choctawhatchee Bays, and between Pensacola Bay and Bon Secour. By 1838 parties in Jackson county had begun the initiatory work of forming a company to build a town on St. Andrews Bay, and a site was selected for the purpose in that part of our city now known as Old Town. The legislature of 1843 granted the following charter for this purpose: "No. X 1. An Act to be entitled an act to incorporate the Directors and Trustees of the St. Andrews Bay Land Company. "Section 1. Be it enacted by the Governor and the legislative Council of the Territory of Florida — That Jes- see Coe, Richard H. Long, Benjamin Wynn, William Booth, William Nichols and Walter J. Robinson, and their asso- ciates and assigns are hereby constituted a body corporate and politic under the name and style of the 'Directors and Trustees of the St. Andrews Bay Land Company;' and by that name they, their heirs, successors and assigns shall have perpetual succession and shall be capable in law to St, Andrews, Florida 35 purchase, hold, receive, retain, and enjoy, to them, their heirs, successors and assigns, lands, tenements, goods and chattels, of any kind and description whatsoever, neces- sary to carry on the business and concerns of said Com- pany, and the same to grant, mortgage, sell and dispose of agreeably to the provisions of cert?in articles of associa- tion entered into by said Corporation and entitled 'Articles of association of the St. Andrews Bay Land Company.' dated the Fifth day of February, A. D. 1838, and recorded in the office of the county court of Jackson county, in said Territory, on the second day of November, A, D. 1841; and shall have the power to sue and be sued, plead and be impleaded; end to make and use a common seal, and the same to break, alter and amend at their pleasure; and to ordain, establish, and put in execution such by laws and regulations not inconsistent with the aforesaid articles of association as may be deemed necessary and expedient by said Directors and Trustees for their government, and not being contrary to the Constitution of the United States, and the laws of this Territory. "Section 2. Be it further enacted. That the powers, rights and liabilities of said Directors and Trustees and subscribers to the said articles of association, the purposes and objects of said company, the stock thereof, and all the transactions and business of said Company shall be gov- erned, regulated, defined determined, and executed, in conformity with the articles of association aforesaid and said articles shall be held and recognized in law as valid and binding upon all interested in said Company, and all other persos or bodies corporate whatsoever. "Section 3, Be it further enacted. That nothing con- tained in this charter shall be construed as to give any banking privileges and that this act shall be subject to be modified, amended or repealed by any future legislature of the State or Territory of Florida." Approved 9 March, 1843. This was the first land company incorporated for the pur- pose of developing St, Andrews, There is a map in the Con- gressional Library at Washington with this notation on it: "Oct. 14 — 1835. Surveyor's Office, Florence, Alabama, gives certificate of map issued by John A. Tourette," published by J. B. Colton & Co., on which St. Andrews is shown as occupy- ing the bay front of Section 6, Township 4 South, Range 14 West, and of Section 1, Township 4 South, Range 15 West. This map also shows the route of the proposed canal from the bend in the Wetappo to the lower end of what is now known 36 St. Andrews, Florida as the Dead Lakes, a distance, as marked on this map, of ten miles. I. G. Searcy published a map, dated Tallahassee, 1829, from data taken from the Land Office there, in which all that territory between Port Washington and the Apalachicola river is marked as "Ineranhity's Claim." On this map an island is shown in the north end of St. Joseph's Bay, also St. Andrews Island. The Pensacola Gazette, of March 3rd, 1838, has a list of acts passed by the Legislative Council, one of which is an act to authorize the "St. Andrews and Chipola Canal and Railroad Company to establish the Books of Record of the Company, and all other papers lost by said fire." From this act it would ap- pear that the charter which had been secured for the building of the canal was subsequently enlarged to include a railroa|3. The same paper has the following in the list of acts passed, "chartering and incorporating the Trustees of the St. Andrews College in West Florida, Act approved Feb'y 8th, 1838," with the following list of trustees: "James Bright, N. H. Mitchell, Richard Fitzpatrick, John Bryan, Jos. Croskey, Neil McPherson, Peter Gautier Jr., Jessee Willis, Simmons J. Baker, James T. Pittman, Jessee Coe, John Branch, Trustees of St. Andrews College." It was provided in this act that the judges of the Supreme Court and presiding officers of both branches of the Legislature and Senators and Representatives in Congress should be ex- officio honorary members of said board. Section 8 of this Act reads as follows: "Be it further enacted that said college shall be lo- cated on the sixteenth section of township four, range four- teen south and wept in the county of Washington : Pro- vided the assent of Congress can be thereunto obtained ; and if the same is not done, then the said trustees may lo- cate the same at such place as they may deem best: Pro- vided the said location shall be made on the Bay of St. Andrews." According to the records in the land office at Gainesville, section six, township four south, range fourteen west, except the fractional west half of the south-west quarter, was entered by James Watson in 1836. He was erecting a saw-mill on Watson's Bayou, and bought up a large amount of land in this vicinity for the timber there was upon it. St. Andrews, Florida 37 The legislature of 1838 memorialized Congress for an ap- propriation of $5,000 for the purpose as stated of "opening and putting in repair the road laid out by James Watson and others from a point near the house of Peter W. Gautier, senior, on St. Andrews Bay, to its intersection with the Compass road, thence with that road to Dry Creek near McQuaigge's mill, thence to the nearest and best route to Webbville in the county of Jackson." This memorial was adoped February 5th, 1838. Just where Peter W. Gautier, Sr.. resided on St. Andrews Bay, we have not been able to ascertain. He was a Methodist min- ister at St. Joseph at one time, and was possibly engaged in that calling while living on St. Andrews Bay. In 1839 Congress passed a relief act in favor of Henry Ri- vere, relative to some of the land he had been platting at and near Austerlitz. White, Rivere and Loftin were the leading men in the promotion project on East Bay at that time. Through the eastern capital abandoning them and their propo- sition and going to St. Joseph, that place secured one of the first railroads in the United States, built in 1837, and the St. Andrews Bay project was ruined. The early settlement of St. Andrews, along the bluff by Governor Clark's place, was made by those from the interior who wished for a home on the bay during the summer months. At other times the houses were deserted, and only a few fisher- men resided here. These early settlers included the families of Simmons J. Baker, Capt. Wynne, Capt. Billy Wynne. Felix G. Long, Mr. Godwin, David Blackshear, Jesse Coe. Marma- duke N. Dickson, Messrs. Russ, Robinson, and a few others, nearly all from Jackson county. The tavern, as the Clark house was called, was also occupied, and one of the first to live there was a Major Armstead and family. In the reminisences of Dr. J. W. Keyes, published many years ago in a Wewahitchka paper, he refers to Major Arm- stead keeping the hotel in 1841-42. and gives us the only par- ticulars we have found of one of the early settlers of St. An- drews, who was a rather remarkable character. The Doctor's narrative is as follows: "In the olden time the mail was brought on horse from Marianna once a week. In the winter of '41, or spring of '42, there began to arrive in the mail, the London 38 St. Andrews, Florida Times, the Limerick Chronicle, Punch, the three British 'Reviews and other magazines; the North American Re- view and the Daily New York Herald. Week after week they came, with letters from London, Dublin, New York and New Orleans. ''One fair day a neat little sloop of about a ton and a half came gracefully up from the Pass with one man on board. Major Armstead was keeping the hotel, and to him the master of the sloop applied for board and lodging for one month. He registered as David R. Blood, and proved to be the party to whom the mail matter above men- tioned was addressed. "Before the month expired Mr. Blood concluded to remain another month ^nd one of Major Armstead's daughters had named the black-coated sloop, 'Widow,' and dubbed the owner, 'Captain.' No small boat ever sailed the waters of St. Andrews Bay, or resident upon its beach became more widely known than the Widow and Captain Blood. It was my good fortune to become intimately acquainted with Capt. Blood, for his visit of one month lengthened into twelve years. Taken 'by and large' he was the completest man I have ever known. He was about six feet three inches tall, broad-chested, no surplus flesh; indeed, physical perfection. He was a fine scholar, fluent in French and acquainted with other lan- guages. He seemed to h^ve read everything, to have been everywhere, and to have personally inspected all that there was worth seeing in Europe, England and America. He was a skillfu] workman in copper, iron and wood, and had tools of all kinds. He had philosophical instruments, chemical apparatus of every description, was a keen sportsman and had every gun from an air gun to a can- non and mortar. "So enthused he became with St. Andrews that he bought two lots next beyond where Governor Clark is buried, and built thereon a very unique house. I should like to describe that house, but for the space it would take. "He told me that he had lived all about the Mediter- ranean, France, England, and all along the Atlantic coast of the United States ; on the West India Islands, Key West, Mobile, New Orleans, etc., and nowhere had he found a place equal in beauty, better for health, or comparable for climate with St. Andrews. "Captain Blood being connected in some way with a law suit in England, left St. Andrews in 1857. "I was then living in Montgomery. He called to see me, bringing me some rare old books. That was the last time I saw him. Some months after, I received a letter St. Andrews, Florida 39 from him at Malta where he said he had located and had his boats, his gardens, his shooting gallery, etc. Some time in 1865 I received from him a long letter with his photo- graph. He ended his letter by saying: 'Well. Doctor, if I were not so far on the shady side of seventy I would go back to our old bay and invite you to come and live with me.' " Captain Blood's house, we are informed by those who were here before the Civil War. was located about where Cap- tain Bert Ware now resides. His many guns, boats, tools and instruments were the wonderment of the old time darkies, who rather looked with awe upon him. He was always praising St. Andrews Bay. and his was an expression of approbation that grew out of an intelligent and observing traveler's knowledge of almost every civilized portion of the world. Education appears to have been a subject of great interest to many of the early settlers of St. Andrews who resided here during the summer. Tradition tells us that the two story house of Jesse Coe, located where Capt. C. D. Smith now resides, was used for the purpose of carrying on a "Female Academy," while the efforts heretofore described to organize the "St. An- drews College" point to active work along educational lines. The removal to this section of the daughter of Mrs. Caroline Lee Hentz, Julia L., soon after her marriage to Dr. J. W. Keyes at Tuskegee, in 1846, was possibly another incentive to the educational efforts of the citizens of "St. Andrews City," as it was even then named on the maps. Mrs. Keyes partook to a large extent of the talents of her gifted mother who, besides her remarkable career as a writer, was equally prominent as an educator. Dr. J. W. Keyes and family at one time occupied the Clark house. His wife being the daughter of Caroline Lee Hentz. and the latter living at Marianna, this famous writer of the mid- dle of the last century spent much time at her daughter's home here. Mrs. Caroline Lee Whiting Hentz was a remarkable edu- cator and writer. She was the daughter of General John Whit- ing, an officer in the Revolutionary War and who, at his death in 1810, was colonel of the 5th infantry. One of his sons was an officer in the Mexican War and was a writer of note. Caro- line, in 1824, married Nicholas. Marcellus Hentz, a native of 40 St. Andrews, Florida Versailles, France, who came to this country in 1816. They were both distinguished educators, occupying prominent po- sitions in schools and colleges in several states during their many years at that work. Caroline Lee Hentz was a precocious writer. Before she was twelve years of age she had written a poem, a novel and a tragedy, and at a very early age was awarded a prize of $500 that had been offered for a play by the Arch Street Theatre in Philadelphia. In 1851, owing to Professor Hentz' failing health, they removed to Marianna, and the many works of fiction written by Mrs. Hentz between that time and her death in February, 1856, were composed there and at the residence of her daugh- ter here in St. Andrews. A biographical sketch of Mrs. Hentz, published some years ago in "The Sunny South," had the fol- lowing relative to this period of her life : "The last few years of her life were spent in the Land of Flowers between M-'ri'nn •. rs c. v^^inter home and St. Andrews Bay as a summer resort. She never saw her last work in print, for suddenly the messenger came to call her hence. After an illness of only a few days, 'The silver cord was loosed and the bowl w- s broken.' As a fitting close to her life work, the week before her death she wrote a beautiful tract. 'No Cross No Crown.' In it we see pic- tures from her religious life." She was buried at Marianna. and over the grave stands a broken shaft with this inscription thereon: "My purposes are broken off," and "The pure in heart shall see God." Her novels that were probably wholly or partly written here on St. Andrews Bay are "Marcus Warland, or the Long Moss Spring;" "The Lost Daughter;" "Robert Graham," a se- quel to "Linda;" and "Ernest Linwood." This last work, writ- ten just before her death, is said to have been the opening of her own heart to the world, but this is true only in a minor sense. Incidents are introduced that bear a resemblance to events that happened in her life, but without the reader's know- ledge of them this work reveals very little of her remarkable career. In the closing chapter of this work she brings her various characters to the seashore which, from the description, could have been no other place than the home of her daughter, the Governor Clark house, where she spent so many happy days during the last years of her life. Of this she says: "Come to this beautiful cottage on the sea-shore, St. Andrews, Florida 41 where we have retired from the heat of summer, and you can tell by a glance whether time has scattered blossoms or thorns in my path, during its rapid flight. "Come to the piazza that faces the beach, and you can look out on an ocean of molten gold, crimsoned here and there by the rays of the setting sun, and here and there melting off" into a kind of burning silver. A glorious breeze is beginning to curl the waters, and to swell the white sails of the skiffs and light vessels that skim the tide like birds of the air, apparently instinct with life and glad- ness. It rustles through the foliage, the bright, green fo- liage, that contrasts so dazzlingly with the smooth, white, sandy beach." She causes the various characters of which she has writ- ten in her novel to pass in review, as they promenade along the white, sandy beach, passing beneath the old pine which still towers as a landmark in front of the location of the cottage, and of them she says: "They walk on thoughtfully, pensively, sometimes looking down on the smooth, continuous beach, then upward to the mellow and glowing heavens." She concludes this, the last novel she ever wrote, with these words : "We, too, are passing on in the procession of life, and the waves of time that are rolling behind us will wash away the print of our footsteps, and others will follow, and others still, but few will be tossed on stormier seas. or be anchored at last in a more blissful haven." St. Andrews Bay has proven a "blissful haven" for many since this prophetic sentence was penned, and many more will find peace upon its beautiful shores in days and years to come. That Mrs. Caroline Lee Hentz was popular in the little social circle of the St. Andrews City of 1851-56, is shown by the action of the Coast Survey officers, who were here at that time and who named the bayou at the east end of Old Town, "Caroline," in honor of this famous author, and so marked it on the government chart. The last time Mrs. Hentz visited the bay she seemed to have a premonition that she would not see it again. As the team that was conveying her to Marianna started from her residence here, she turned and waved her hand in farewell to the bay. When asked why she did so, she replied : "I fear I will never see my beautiful bay again." And though she was in the enjoyment of good health at the time, she soon afterward 42 St. Andrews, Florida fell ill with pneumonia, which caused her death in a very few days. Thus passed to the great beyond the most famous writer that has ever made St. Andrews her home. Her daughter, Julia L. Hentz Keyes, was a well known writer of poetry, much of which was written during the trying days of the Civil War, though she had furnished many poems to the press before that time. Some of these poems were writ- ten while she resided here. In 1859, while living at Montgom- ery, she wrote a prize poem entitled "A Dream of Locust Dell," that being the name of the place near Florence, Ala., where her father and mother maintained a well known school for many years, while Mrs. Keyes was a young lady. One of her daughters married Dr. J. W. Coachman, who was one of the party consisting of Dr. Keyes and others that left this country soon after the close of the Civil War and took up their residence in Brazil. Dr. Coachman became a noted dentist in Rio de Janerio, doing the work of the emperor. In 1919 he had published in Brazil, a little volume of the poems of "Julia L. Keyes," which, it is stated on the title page, was "Compiled and published in affectionate remembrance by J. W. C. & J. C. D." In an introductory note to this volume, Mrs. Keyes is described as follows: "Her distinguishing characteristics, as described by one who knew her intimately and well, were modesty, kindness, and beauty of imagination, delicacy of taste, wide sympathy and refinement of feeling. A most gentle and lovable disposition was hers." The first poem in this collection, entitled "My Mother," was possibly written while the family lived here. The first and third verses follow : "My Mother! now I know full well The debt I owe to thee, Oh ! would that I had felt it When a child beside thy knee. Mine every word should have been breathed In mild and gentle tone. And deep devotion should have been In every action shown. "And now I often wish to live Again those vanished hours. That when we had scattered thorns We might have woven flowers. Heaven bless my Mother! God be praised For such a guide to youth ; A heart and mind to lead my soul To wisdom, love and truth." St. Andrews, Florida 43 Both Dr. Keyes and his wife were buried at Wewahitchka. Many of our old settlers were well acquainted with the genial doctor, and many pleasant hours have we spent in listening to his tales of early days on St. Andrews Bay. In reading some published letters written by Caroline Lee Hentz in 1852, describing journeys taken by her from the Apalachicola River to Quincy, we find a description of the damage done east of the river by the hurricane of August, 1851. This was the storm that destroyed the old light house on Cape San Bias, and probably swept away part of Hammock Island, causing the name Hurricane to be given that island. Of the damage done after the storm passed inland Mrs. Hentz says: "After crossing the river, the ride through the pine woods is lonely and monotonous, only at long intervals interrupted by signs of human habitancy. At every step the ruins of the tremendous August gale are visible. Les cadavres des arbres. as Chauteaubriand calls them — corpses of trees, gigantic pine trees, lie piled upon each other, like fallen heroes on a battle plain — and the road is constantly making zigzag freaks, to avoid desecrating these forest remains. "We had been told that the summer storm had made fearful ravages here (Quincy), but in the dense oaken groves and among the magnificent shade trees which adorn and embosom the place, we look in vain for the foot- prints of the angel of the whirlwind. We can see, how- ever, many proofs of its visitation. Under the window by which we are seated, there is an orange tree nearly twenty feet in height. The topmost branches are all blighted and leafless ; only the lower boughs retain their vitality. All the orange trees here are blasted in their bloom, and the cultivation of years destroyed." While touching upon the subject of storms, it may be well to narrate here the history of the most destructive ones that have visited this section of the Gulf, the eff'ects of which have been noticeable here on St. Andrews Bay. As noted previously, the first record of a tropical storm having visited this immediate coast was that of September, 1558. Undoubtedly other hurricanes swept this part of the north Gulf between that date and those of which a record has 44 St. Andrews, Florida been preserved since Florida became a part of the United States. In fact marked changes have occurred in the barrier between St. Andrews Bay and the Gulf within the history handed down by our oldest inhabitants. Tradition informs us that at one time there was but one common entrance to both St. Joseph and St. Andrews Bays, and that the barrier extended continuously from St. Joe Point to Woods End. Charts that have been made of St. Joseph Bay show very deep water in the northern end of it, and if this tradition be founded on fact, the entrance to these bays was probably near the head of Crooked Island Sound. Storms that have been recorded ?s occurring in this por- tion of the Gulf that were undoubtedly felt in St. Andrews Bay and on the adjacent Gulf be-^ich. are that of September 14th, 1841, that did much damage at St. Joseph; and the storm of October 4th and 5th, 1842. which seriously damaged the gov- ernment camps and docks at Cedar Keys, and must have been severe this near to that place. The storm that virtually wiped out St. Joseph was that of September 8th, 1844, and was severe here. The tropical storm of 1851 destroyed the light-house on Cape San Bias and, crossing the northern part of the state, caused much damage as narrated by Mrs. Hentz, The worst storm of which we have any record as having visited St. Andrews Bay was that of 1856. This occurred early in August, and was undoubtedly the one that Lafcadio Hearn describes so graphically in "Chita, a Memory of Last Island." There were more than thirty houses standing on the bluff at that date in what is now known as Old Town, and the tide was higher in the bay than was ever known before or since. It washed away the face of this bluff, eating back into it for quite a distance. Mr. Thomas J. Dickson, son of Marmaduke N. Dickson, in describing the effects of this storm, says: "While my father's family were at his Old Town resi- dence in the summer of 1856, there came a very violent storm which lasted for quite awhile, but the worst of it was from about four in the afternoon, through the night and until daybreak the next day, when the wind changed somewhat, but the water stood in a flood tide for perhaps twelve hours longer. During the storm the bluff was washed away right up to the houses of my father, of Mr. Felix Long and Mr. Godwin, and it was thought if the storm had lasted six hours longer these houses would have St. Andrews, Florida 45 been carried completely away. As it was the steps at my father's were undermined and one pillar of the house washed out, and the bluff washed into the bay, changing the width of the beach and the depth of the water in front and necessitating the removal of these houses back from the edge of the bluff for some distance." The bench between the bluff and the waters of the bay, as shown in the west end of Panama City, was caused by this storm. A smack lay at anchor ne?r Hawk's Point when the storm was on. The men abo?rd went to sleep in their bunks and when they .""woke in the morning the vessel was on the beach, at the b've oaks just west of the old Baker homestead, with the masts up among the limbs of the trees. This storm is described by those who were here at the time as one of some six dnys duration, the greatest damage having been done on the last dfiy. The tide rose to a height of 11 feet. For five days the wind hpd been rushing the waters of the Gulf into the bay, when on the sixth day the gale increased as the wind went to the southwest and the mountainous waves cut away the bluff. This storm undoubtedly opened West Pass, which was closed again in 1861 and remained closed until 1881. With the clos- ing of West Pass the East Pass began to deepen, and in 1870 Capt. Barrow found 21 feet of water through it. In 1876 Hawk Massalena took out the schooner Alpha Cole, lumber laden, and there was 21 feet of water there at that time. A storm in August, 1864, closed up the east opening at Crooked Island, probably the old entrance to St. Joseph and St. Andrews Bays, since which it has never been open. The charts show that there used to be an 18 foot channel there. A storm in August, 1886, was a very severe one here, the wind blowing hard for two days, the principal damage being done on the second day. The wind blew on the first day from the southeast, filling the bay with a high tide, and on the second day it shifted to the southwest. As the waters of this tide went out of the bay they cut a channel through the reef at Spanish Shanty Cove, but it was closed again in a short time by the westerly winds. In 1894 there was another severe storm here, which cut off the west end of Crooked Island. The next severe hurricane was that of September 27th, 1906, which did much damage to docks about the bay; opened up again the pass in Spanish Shanty Cove ; made a cut through Hurricane Island, and drove the tide into North Bay to a height of nearly ten feet in places. 46 St. Andrews, Florida However, none of these storms, except that of 1856, have done much damage to property on St. Andrews Bay, and vessels and small craft have weathered them all at their usual anchor- ages. During the hurricane of 1906 we were out on the waters of the bay in our launch every day, as we were in the other storms that visited this bay between that date and 1916. A very full report of these storms was furnished Capt. H. B. Fer- guson by the writer of this article, and printed in H. R. Docu- ment No. 12, of the first session of the 61st Congress. The first survey of St. Andrews Bay was made by the forces under the British Admiralty, vv^hich work was begun as soon as Great Britain obtained possession of the Floridas. The chart made from this survey is on file in the m?ip department of the Congressional Library at Washington, and the title states that it is "An accurate chart of the Coast of West Florida, sur- veyed in the years 1764-65-66-67-68-69-70-71, by George Gauld, M. A." The next map of importance is that made by John Lee Wil- liams and published in his work on West Florida, which has been referred to heretofore. Searcy's map gives but a poor outline of St. Andrews Bay, as does the 1835 map of Tourette. In 1840 the entrance to St. Andrews Bay was surveyed by Lieu- tenant Commander L. W. Powell, in the brig Consort. He had been surveying St. Joseph Bay, and was thereafter surveying the entrance of this bay, and at Cat Island, for the purpose of ascertaining the best location for a naval base. He reported finding 17 feet of water in the main pass, 13 in the east pass, and 14 feet in the west pass. The distribution of tidal current iij and out of the bay through these three passes kept all of them shallow. In 1842 the Legislature memorialized Congress to place fortifications at the entrance of St. Andrews Bay. Why this was done is not stated. It was during President Harrison's ad- ministration, and the subject of harbor improvements was one that was attracting the attention of the inhabiants of the entire seacoast. Trouble wih Mexico was also looming up, both of which may have been the cause of this memorial. The first survey by the Coast and Geodetic Survey was be- gun in a preliminary way about 1849. The first chart of this bay issued by the government was that of 1855. It is entitled c o a -w a re e? O ^ < O rH K I V- -'/- C ) t^ 4): ^ti *■! bji ■. ■\ 3 en 04 o c 4; n u in u S) -0 in a a; in 00 ■^ J ,.\ '4 % .'s.' >" St. Andrews, Florida 47 "Preliminary chart of St. Andrews Bay, Florida, from a Trigo- nometrical Survey under the direction of A. D. Bache, Superin- tendent of the Survey of the Coast of the United States. Tri- angulation by F. H. Gerdes, Assistant; Topography by G. D. Wise, Assistant ; Hydrography by the Party, under command of O. H. Berryman, U. S. N. Asst." An astronomical station was established on the east end of Hurricane Island and it is stated that the magnetic observations were made by F. H. Gerdes in February, 1854. The triangulation was executed in 1854-55, ?nd the topography and hydrography in 1855. The variation of the needle in February, 1854, is given as 6 degrees and 12 minutes east. For 1920 it is given on the government charts as 3 degrees, 30 minutes east, annual change 0. The latitude of the station was 30 degrees, 4 minutes, 23 seconds north : longitude 85 degrees, 38 minutes, 36 seconds west. The work done by this party was confined to the lower bay, from near Watson's Bayou on the east, to the mouth of the Lagoon on the west, and from Crooked Island on the south, to Dyers Point on the north, soundings being taken only in that portion of the bay. The old military road is shown as coming to the north shore of the bay at Military Point, nehr Parker, and continuing southward on the opposite side, from Ferry Point. There was also a road shown as leading out to the northward from "Saint Andrews City." The old chart shows Saint Andrews City as extending along the beach some three-fourths of a mile on the south shore. The changes that have occurred in the shore line of the bay, other than those resulting from the storm of 1856. are inconsequential. There were no buoys at that date marking the entrance to the bay, but bushes were placed at the east en- trance, indicating the location of the channel. Vessels were piloted in and out by those fishermen who were well acquaint- ed with the channels. This map shows 32 buildings in the city of Saint Andrews, and that is the number said to have been burned at the bom- bardment of the place in December. 1863. But few of them, probably only three or four, were occupied during the winter, these being the hotel kept in the Clark house ; a store kept by a Jew namefd Fleischman ; Capt. Blood's house, and possibly one more. Early in the summer the others were occupied by the owners, who came here to spend a greater portion of the 48 St. Andrews, Florida warm weather, remaining until late in autumn. The most of these people were from and near Marianna and Greenwood, but some came from Alabama and Georgia. Besides enjoying an outing, there were those who, owning plantations at their inland homes, put in part of the time in catching and curing fish, to be used on their plantations. The fishing here has always attracted attention, and was the direct cause of drawing many to this bay. The first notice we have of fish here is that by DeVaca, the historian of Narvarez voy- age, when the party entered this bay, to which reference is made on page 3 of this volume. Undoubtedly the interior In- dians came here at the season when game was scarce and sea- sonal vegetation ended, and lived on the fish and oysters found in the bay. From James Grant Forbes' "Sketches of the History and Topography of Florida," published in New York in 1821, we find the following interesting account of possibly the first record of large vessels or smacks fishing in this immediate vicinity. The article quoted was written by one of Gauld's men employed in the British coast survey, who, after the sur- vey was completed, went to Jrmaica in 1772. Under date of June 3rd of that year he wrote of this section as follows: "I hope a settlement will be m?>de there some time or other. It is a place that deserves to be taken notice of. Last summer (1771) . we met there four Spanish schooners fishing off the coast while they had large stages erected for curing the fish which they caught in great plenty, and were to carry to the Havanna against Lent. They told that each schooner m-^de abo-ut two thousand dollars a trip. There are six in the trade from the Havanna em- ployed in that business. This is an object worth the atten- tion of British subjects." Taking into consideration the value of a dollar at that time, the amount received for the trip is remarkable. There are records of Spanish fishermen in this section prior to that date, and the fish, oysters and turtle taken by these men, and their successors who followed the ssme business here after the purchase of Florida by the United States, were sold at the set- tlement and fort ?t St. Joseph. As late as 1840 the following advertisement appeared in the St. Joseph Times: "Oysters — Oysters — Oysters. Families supplied with St. Andrews Bay Oysters, in or out of the shell at all hours. Pickled oysters St. Andrews, Florida 49 constantly on hand, and sent to any part of the country by ad- dressing a note to the subscribers. Byigton & Brother, Rail- road Cottage, Dec. 22nd, 1840." St. Andrews Bay oysters were widely known and highly esteemed. At that early day signs in the market at New Or- leans read: "St. Andrews Bay Oysters For Sale Here." After the w^ar, when the country had begun to recover therefrom, wagons came in the winter season from as far away as Colum- bus, Ga., and east central Alabama to St. Andrews Bay, where they loaded up with salt fish and with oysters in the shell, and took them back home where they were peddled out. We have seen as many as forty teams here at St. Andrews at one time, waiting to secure loads, while an equal number, or even more, were at Southport, and at Parker and East Bay points. Buena Vista point furnished many fine oysters, while the largest taken came from the Big Oyster Bar north of the present West Bay Mill location. From that point, some years ago, oysters were taken that measured from tip to tip of the shell, on the convex side, a trifle over 12 inches. They usually sold here at that date at ten cents a quart, solid meats, or $1 to $1.50 per 1,000 in the shell. Many boat loads were taken from here to Pensa- cola. and that heavy drain on the beds, together with some se- vere storms that buried many of the beds under drifting sand, has made the present supply of oysters in the bay a negligible quantity. The enormous shell heaps to be found in this section c ttest the great numbers of these molluscs that were to be found here at an early date, and which furnished food for the people that then inhabited these shores. At various times our fishermen have made large hauls of mackerel and of mullet, these two varieties being the ones that are taken, in their season, in large numbers. Up to the time when the railways was built to the bay, these large catches had to' be dressed and salted, and sold as salt fish. This limited the amount of business that could be done, as salt fish could not compete with the fresh fish that, with modern refrigeration, could be sent a thousand miles away. But it was not until 1908 that the railroad was completed to the bay, and shipments of fresh fish began to be sent out by rail. The history of the "Saint Andrews Bay Fisheries" will be found very fully set forth in Silas Stearns' article in the "Geo- 50 St. Andrews, Florida graphical Review of the Fisheries of the Gulf of Mexico: West- ern Florida," pages 564 to 566, contained in the 1883 govern- ment report, but not published until 1887, containing also the census report of 1880 relative to the fisheries. This article from such a well known authority as Mr. Stearns, is well worth reading, and from this history we will make liberal quotations. Of the "History and Early Condition of the Fisheries," he says: "The fisheries of Washington county are twofold in their history. Both past and present, however, were, and are carried on in the waters of St. Andrews Bay, the cap- ital for the prosecution of the same being furnished by parties living in or near the city of the same name. The past fisheries, dating from the year 1850 to the year 1863, which was the year of the bombardment of Saint Andrews city, will be treated of first. "Between 1850 and 1860 Saint Andrews was a lively, active place, containing at least 1,200 or 1,500 people. There were sawmills in operation and shipping was car- ried on to an important extent. The city in summer was visited by many people from Alabama and Georgia, who, of course, circulated money in the place. There, as in nearly every seaport town, fish formed the chief article of diet. As the place grew more thrifty and continued to grow in size, the demand for fish increased in proportion. At this early stage of its history a large quantity of salt fish was sold to the planters living in the interior of Ala- bama and Georgia, and this trade was of no litttle import- ance to the fishermen. The fishing then, as now, was done entirely with the drag-seines, which were from 50 to 75 fathoms in length, and from 6 to 12 feet deep, having a bag in the middle, at which point the seine attained its greatest depth In winter two or three bar- rels were considered a fair day's catch; in spring about twice that amount, and in fall as many as the boat could carry in one or two journeys — perhaps 25 or 30 barrels. "The greater part of these fish were salted; for this purpose such fish as Spanish mackerel, jurel, pompano,* trout, redfish, sheepshead, bluefish. and mullet were se- lected. The majority of other varieties were given away or fed to the hogs When dry salted, the fish were allowed to remain for two or three days in that con- dition, after which they were taken out and packed away nicely in barrels and half barrels with plenty of pickle. Each barrel would hold certainly 200 pounds, and the fish were guaranteed to remain sweet and good for at least one year. The barrels were, and are now, made and pro- St. Andrews, Florida 5 1 vided by a cooper who lives near the bay, and combines this work with that of farming. "The principal market for these fish was in the inter- ior. Some of the fishermen preferred to carry the fish to market themselves, but the majority sold them at their own doors. Those who chose the former plan would start up country with their barrels of fish loaded on an ox-cart and stop at every town and plantation until all the fish were sold. This mode was much more profitable to the fisherman than the other, for, of course, if the buyers sent after the fish, they did not expect to pay is much for them as they would if they were delivered at their houses, and the value of the time spent in peddling fish was not con- sidered, for the summer months in that region were of but little practical use to the professional fisherman. When several wagons had preceded a later comer, it was fre- quently necessary to go as far as Columbus, Georgia, be- fore selling all the fish. The best inland customers were planters, who bought the fish to feed to their slaves, whose diet was half bacon and half fish." "After the fish caught by a crew were sold, the divis- ion of the proceeds was made. The seine and boat drew one share, the captain two, and each of the crew one. Some men from Alabama not accustomed to fishing, but owners of a fishing outfit, would often hire by the month a captain and crew to fish for them during the season. For such work there was no regular proportion paid, but the men who were hired usually managed to make more than they could have made had they been fishing on the ordin- ary plan. There were at least two crews of this kind here in the year 1879. Of the crews working on shares, there were only five in 1879, but when the war broke out there were many more. Some of these were not fishing for mar- ket, but in order to catch fish for their own consumption." Stearns says that it is impossible to accurately get at just how many fish were taken by our St. Andrews fishermen be- tween 1850 and 1860, but from careful investigation the amount of fish salted and sold during that time is given at 21,000 barrels. Pompano v/ere more plentiful then than since, being one-eighth of the catch. The prices and amounts for the ten year trade are given as follows: Pompano, 2,625 barrels, sold at $10 per barrel, bringing in $26,250. Mullet and other beach fish sold for $8 per barrel, number of barrels 18,375, bringing $147,000. Of later day fishing Stearns says: "In the year 1863, as above stated, Saint Andrews city was bombarded and destroyed by the Federal gun- 52 St. Andrews, Florida boats, as were also the fisheries and salt-works about the bay. This event, and the continued presence of the gun- boats, stopped all fishing in the bay until the close of the war. The fishermen still resident were without outfits; the greater part of them. had heard of or experienced bet- ter fields elsewhere, and had gone away. In a few years after this the poorer classes of the inland country began to call on those living at the bay for fish, for which they paid by giving in exchange sirup, corn, sweet potatoes, etc. The new class of fishermen were formed from the people who, since the war, had come there for the purpose of farming. They found but a scanty living and were only too glad to be thus called on by those living in the interior of the coun- try for fish. Those who were able to buy seines, did so im- mediately, and every spring and fall they spent two or three months in fishing, the profits of which exceeded those realized from farming for the remaining nine months of the year. "There are now some twenty-five or thirty families near the bay, out of which number about thirty-five men and boys fish during the season for a livelihood. None fish throughout the year. There is a Dane, a German, an Irishman, a Scotchman, a Spaniard, and there are also three Englishmen ; the rest of them are Americans and negroes. As a class, these fishermen are a hardy set. So- cially they are very hospitable in their manner to a stranger, always entertaining him as well as their mode of living will permit. The astonishing feature is that men who have traveled, and have, therefore, seen something of the world, should settle down to lead such a lazy, shift- less sort of life. Their homes, often containing but two rooms, are the regular 'Hoosier' log cabins; in these live the fishermen, their wives, and their children. Life in one of these houses must be truly miserable. The women, all of whom are natives and of the most ignorant class, are as intellectually inferior as they are superior energetically to the men. Considering how few advantages these women have, their conduct of their household afi'airs reflects great credit upon them. The children seem to be smart and in- telligent until they reach maturity, at which stage they either fall into the careless habits of their fahers, or, if girls, take on themselves the drudgeries of a mother and wife. Near the bay there is no school, but those who can afford to do so send their children to the county school at Marianna; few being able to do this, the majority grow up in painful ignorance. The same is the case for the most part with their religious instruction, as there are no regu- lar services held near the bay and none of the people there profess any religion." St. Andrews, Florida 53 This is the rather disheartening picture of those engaged in the fishing industry here from its beginning until about 1860. Then came the war and drove away even the few people who were obtaining a scanty living from fishing, as above described. And they did not return. Some time after the war the demand for fish from the interior having again become pronounced, the business here drew fishermen from other points, as well as induced residents to engage in this work, and by 1873 there were more fish and oysters being taken from the bay, annually, than ever before. This business gradually increased until now it is the largest business on the bay, and constantly increasing, It must be understood that Stearns wrote only of the fishing industry and fishermen. Those who had built summer homes and were here during the summer season, enjoying social privi- leges that they did at their inland homes, with schooling for a time at least in the academy, and a visit now and then from preachers, were of the more wealthy class that could afitord such a summer home by the sea, and brought to it their culture and refinement. One of the early preachers in this section of Florida was Peter W. Gautier, Sr., father of the editor of the St. Joseph Times, and who, at one time, must have had a residence here on the bay, as a memorial was passed by the territorial legisla- ture on February 5th, 1838, asking that the government appro- priate $5,000 "for the opening and putting in repair the road laid out by James Watson and others from a point near the house of Peter W. Gautier, senior, on St. Andrews Bay, to its intersection with the Compass road, thence with that road to Dry Creek, near McQuaigges mill, thence to the nearest and best route to Webbville in the county of Jackson." Dr. Keyes also, in his reminisences, has the following re- ference to the visit of a clergyman here : "In 1848 I found myself at th6 hospitable White House and there was there as a guest, the Rev. Mr. Mercer, a Baptist minister from Georgia. He had been a great sufTerer from asthma. I never met a man more enthusias- tic upon any subject than he was upon the curative qual- ities of St. Andrews' air. He could breathe and I can tes- tify there was no lack of breath, for a more incessant talk- er I never met." 54 St. Andrews, Florida But there were no churches, and no school houses wherein meetings could be held in those early days, and services, when they were held, were in private houses. The numerous population, 1,200 to 1,500, mentioned by Stearns as living here before the war, included those employed at Watson's mill, on Watson's Bayou, with their families. In fact, St. Andrews being the only settlement on the bay, all of those living near what is now St. Andrews city, were included in the population. The lumber cut at this mill was shipped out by schooners, coastwise and to Cuba. The property changed hands many times. It is but indirectly connected with our his- tory of St. Andrews, therefore only a passing mention of it and other mills and settlements will be made. During the Second Seminole War, from 1834 to 1842, this section was subject to more or less trouble from wandering bands of Indians. We have no record of any damage by them right here in St. Andrews, but local history tells of depredations by them on all sides of this locality. In 1840 a Mrs. Jones, living north of the old Gainer home at Econfina, was killed by a band of Indians. William Augustus Gainer, in his reminisences, tells of this in the following words: "When my father and family came to the Econfina country they were accompanied by others. Among these were Elijah Robbins, family and slaves, from Virginia; Josiah Jones and son, who was married ; and Rev. Soliden. In 1840, Jones' wife, who was a Robbins, was killed by the Indians. Squire Robbins lived right to the rear of my house. Mrs. Jones was killed about two miles above there. Beathem, with a couple of friendly Indians and Steve Rich- ards, was sent out to gather in the wandering Indians pre- paratory to their removal to the Indian Territory. Rich- ards, with some trusty Indians, secured a small number of Coacoochee's band and took them to Blountstown. When passing Major Jones' home he gave them dinner. Some eight or ten days after this some Indians, supposed to have been the party that Richards took to Blountstown, return- ed and killed Mrs, Jones. She was buried half a mile northwest of where I live." In the February 2nd, 1839 issue, of the St. Joseph Times, appeared the following item relative to a large number of re- fugee Indians on East Bay : "Indians. — About two hundred refugee Indians are St. Andrews, Florida 55 said to be concealed in the hammocks on the Eastern arm of St. Andrews Bay, between thirty and forty miles north of this place. A detachment of U. S. troops are in pursuit of them. As yet they have committed no depredations and excite but little alarm in the neighborhood." In its issue of January 29th, 1840, it stated that an express had just arrived from lola with a letter from Mr. J. L. Small- wood, merchant of that place, stating that on Monday night the family of Mr. Harlen, about six miles above lola, were all mur- dered, and the premises burned, by a party of Indians supposed to be about twenty in number. The citizens of lola were with- out arms or ammunition and they called for assistance. The Indians would either remain in the Apalachicola swamps or make for the eastern arm of St, Andrews Bay, A company hence, under command of Col, Fitzpatrick, had gone in pursuit of them. The last Indian to be killed in this section was old Chief Joe, an account of which is given in Doctor Keyes' reminisences. He says: "Not long before my visit to the bay, in 1848, old Chief Joe had been killed, and he (Rev. Mercer) gave me a full account of it. Joe was a Seminole chief who lived at the head of the sound on the road leading from St. Jo- seph Bay and Apalachicola, to St. Andrews. A man by the name of King had been to Apalachicola and was re- turning to St. Andrews, having his gun upon his shoulder rnd a roll of calico upon his back. King passed old Joe rnd his son, a boy about sixteen yesrs of age and spoke to ihem as he passed. It is supposed that Joe wanted that roll of calico for when King was a short distance from him he fired at him and the ball struck the roll of cloth and King fell. King recovered his footing, turned upon Joe rnd fired at but missed him. Each drew their knives and King struck Joe on the head with his; Joe grappled him; King threw him to the ground but Joe got on top ; King rose v/ith him and threw h'm again. About this time old Joe's son ran up and Joe said 'thwalka;' the boy turned and ran. King found Joe's strength was failing, so disen- gaged himself and took to his heels. Some days after. King pnd some of his companions returned to the scene of con- flict and found Joe but a few paces from where King had left him dead. King's knife had penetrated to Joe's brain, A ye^r later the skeleton of Chief Joe was gathered and taken to Ireland, and now stands in a glass case in the mu- seum of the University at Dublin, marked. 'Seminole In- dian Chief Joe, Presented by Mr, Edmond Blood,' " 56 St. Andrews, Florida There does not appear to be much in evidence as to this section having been inhabited by a very large number of In- dians known to white men, since they discovered these shores. There are no burial grounds of importance, and the burials ap- pear to have been scattering and what is termed "intrusive," in mounds antedating the arrival of those Indians which were found here by the first white explorers. Now and then, in cut- ting into mounds, and in excavating on the bluffs, remains of these later day Indians are found. They do not differ in any way from the skeletons of Indians of today. The first post-office in St. Andrews was located between Old Town and the Panama City line. The post office records at Washington show that the first postmaster was James B. B. Clarke, and his appointment is elated January 15th, 1857. The office was probably kept at the house of this Clarke, which was at the point stated above. He was succeeded by A. B. Pearson, who was appointed postmaster January 14th, 1859. Changes were rapid in postmasters that year, as on June 21st, T. E. Clarke, the son of the first postmaster was appointed, and on November 9th, 1859, Wm. T. Porter was appointed. What was done for a postoffice during the Civil War is not known, but as this place was often raided, there was probably no settled office here. On May 3rd, 1866, Wm. E. Forslew was appointed postmaster. There is no record available to show how long ho held the office, or who followed him. There was little but the monotony of a fishing village dur- ing the fall, winter and spring here in St. Andrews between 1850 and 1861. The summer residents made that time a merry one, but it was only a brief season. The oncoming of the war attracted but little attention here among the fishermen. They were not politicians, too poor to own slaves, and but little interested in the affairs of the nation. There was a little commerce carried on in the matter of ship- ments of lumber from the mills which were in operation ; a small amount of cotton was shipped from the landing on Cedar Creek and from Grassy Point, together with now and then some cattle destined for Cuba, The port had a customs officer, but there was little for him to do. The planters in the Econfina set- tlement raised many cattle, some of which were exported, while the mill on Watson's Bayou, and one on what was then called Laughton's Bayou, exported much of their cut. The mill St. Andrews, Florida 57 on Laughton's Bayou was put up in 1856 by P. M. Callaway and others, of Eufaula, Ala. An old steamboat was purchased at Apalachicola, brought to the site chosen for the mill, the en- gine and boilers taken out and used for power, while the boat was utilized as a lodging place for the labor employed. The storm of 1858 destroyed much of this mill, houses and the boat, and during the war the boilers were cut up and used for kettles in the manufacure of salt. Soon after the war. Governor Mil- ton, of Marianna, erected another mill on this bayou. Other mills were built at an early day on streams leading into North Bay, but the lumber they manufactured was used almost en- tirely in the interior. St. Andrews Bay, with its many secluded deep water bayous, afforded a good base for a profitable business in block- ade running, shipping out of cotton and securing needed sup- plies for the Confederacy on return trips of the runners. There was also, early in the war, an extensive business carried on in the manufacture of salt at various points on the bay, and this made St. Andrews Bay far more conspicuous than it was in peace times. Just when the Federal ships were first placed at the en- trance to the harbor to blockade it, is difficult to say, but it v/as very early in the war, and probably some time in the latter part of 1861. Besides blockade duty they were frequently en- gaged in the destruction of the salt works about the bay, which had, at that time, become numerous and very valuable. It has been stated by those who were here at the time, that during the height of the salt-making activity here on the bay, approx- imately four thousand wagons were engaged in hauling the product to the interior. The headquarters of the blockaders was in the bay back of Hurricane Island. The island was used as a land base, and a wharf was erected on the peninsula side south of Davis Point. However there was not a continuous blockade maintained at the entrance of this bay. Federal vessels employed in this part of the Gulf, coasting between Cedar Keys and Pensacola, watched for blockade runners, and at times entered the bay and destroyed salt-works. The making of salt was a very necessary business, and the law of Florida granted exemption from conscription and 58 St. Andrews, Florida military serice to those engaged in this work. This brought a large number here who were anxious to escape from service in the Confederate Armies. This became burdensome in more ways than one. It took a large amount of supplies to feed and maintain these salt-mak- ers, and those engaged in the transportation of it, all of which was a drain upon the food supply of the back country. Davis in his work on "The Civil War," in Florida, says: "Citizens of Florida and citizens of neighboring states established themselves with kettles on the sea-coast be- cause salt-makers were exempted. Governor Milton stat- ed 'Many able-bodied men from adjoining and this state have repaired to the Florida sea-coast, and under pretense of making salt, have been holding intercourse with the en- emy; others have been lazy loungers. I know ten men as- sociated in salt-making on the coast for the past six weeks. They have not made a bushel.' " Although many thousand were engaged in making salt along the seculded waters of the Gulf shore, salt kept increas- ing in price, and was selling early in the war at $1 per pound in parts of the state. Alabama depended largely on the salt made here. A resolution was passed in the legislature in De- cember, 1862, extending the privilege of making salt on the coasts of Florida to citizens of other states. In April, 1862, Governor Shorter, of Alabama, requested of Governor Milton that the State of Alabama might be allowed to manufacture salt in Florida, as that state had insufficient coast line to furn- ish a supply for its citizens. These salt-makers were organized into companies by the state, and furnished with arms and ammunition. Such was the demand for this necessity that many profiteered in salt, and a salt corner at one time threatened the supply of the country. A state tax of one-tenth of the output was proposed with a view to ending such attempts to corner the salt market. The north and west shores of West Bay offered exceeding- ly good locations for carrying on this work ; the flats on the north shore being particularly well fitted for this purpose. Even to this day, portions of the brick work of the furnaces may be found along this shore. This section was easily accessible from the north; secluded from the sea-coast; plenty of fuel ob- tainable in the adjacent woods; and could be evacuated quickly in case of attack. St. Andrews, Florida 59 But all portions of the bay had salt works and, as Lieuten- ant Hart, of the Albatross said, as he approached the entrance to the bay at night, "The sky was lit up to east and west away inland for a long distance," this glare in the heavens being the reflected light from the fires of countless salt-works along the shores of the bay. We have no authentic record of the various boats that were employed in the blockade of this bay, but in the official reports of work done here by them, we find the names of the following, with the years that they were reported as in service here: In 1862, the bark Pursuit, steamer Albatross, schooner Wanderer, and brig Bohio. In 1863 and later, the bark Rest- less, sidewheel steamer Bloomer, bark Roebuck, and sloop Caro- line. One of the early activities of the blockading fleet was the capture of the steamer Florida, that had been engaged in taking cotton out of this bay, probably to the Bermudas, and bringing in supplies. The reports of this capture, as well as reports of other activities that will be given in this narrative, are taken from the "Naval War Records," so far as reference is had to the movement of the men and boats from the blackading fleet, and from the "Official Records of The Rebellion" of reports made by the Confederate forces. The following are the official reports of this transaction: "Acting Volunteer Lieutenant David Cate, command- ing the United States bark Pursuit, having received in- formation that the rebel steamer 'Florida' which had suc- ceeded in getting into St. Andrews was lying some twenty miles above that town, determined to make an attempt to cut her out, a volunteer expedition was organized, and left the vessel on the 4th of April, and on the night of the 6th, reached and surprised the 'Florida.' "The crew were overcome with slight resistance, and the vessel — a valuable side-wheel steamer of 500 tons — with a cargo of over 200 bales of cotton, was brought safely out." "Flag officer McKean transmits report of the capture of the Confederate steamer 'Florida.' "United States Flag-Ship Niagra, "Key West, April 24, 1862. "Sir: I have the honor to transmit herewith a copy of the report made by Acting Master Elnathan Lewis, who 60 St. Andrews, Florida commanded the boat expedition from the Pursuit, which resulted in the capture of the Confederate steamer Florida, and which I did not receive in time to forward by the Con- necticut- "I am, respectfully, your obedient servant, "WM. W. McKEAN, "Flag-officer Commanding Eastern Gulf Squadron. "Hon. Gideon Welles, "Secty. of the Navy, Washington, D. C." "Steamer Florida Prize to U. S. Bark Pursuit: "St. Josephs Bay, April 10, 1862. "Sir: I have to report that, in obedience to your order of the 4th instant, I proceeded with the boats under my command to St. Andrews Bay, to endeavor to capture any vessel or vessels that might be found loading or lying in that vicinity. We arrived at the mouth of the pass and landed at 12:30 a. m. and camped on the beach. Having been informed that a sloop loaded with, cotton, bound to Havana, wrs lying 5 miles up Crooked Island sound, I despatched the launch with twelve men, in charge of Sail- ingmaster John C. Hamlin, with orders to capture her, if possible. Mr. Hamlin proceeded up the sound and took possession of sloop, which proved to be the sloop Lafay- ette, of Pensacola which ran the blockade by East Pass, Pensacola, March 1, rnd had been lying there since, hav- ing abandoned his voyage. "Found the captain on board, who expressed strong Union sentiments. Got sloop under way, brought her to . the pass and anchored her. We found that Captain Har- rison of this sloop was acquainted with the bay. and volun- teered his services to pilot us to the steamer, Florida, then loading at head of North bay. mouth of Bear creek. At 1 p. m. started sloop, with boats in tow: at 4 p. m. passed St. Andrews town and proceeded up North bay until 9 p. m., when the wind having died av/ay, we anchored the sloop, and one boat leaving five men in charge under the command of James H. Barry, master's mate. We then proceeded cautiously with launch, first cutter, and twenty- five men, Captain Harrison acting as pilot. "At 2 a. m. we succeeded in passing the picket guard without any rlarm being given; at 3 a. m. discerned the lights of the ste mer in the distance. We then lay on our oars and drifted up the tide until we came within hail, when we were hailed by the watch, who gave the alarm, we then boarded her in both boats on both sides. We met with but little resistance, they being taken completely by surprise. On gaining the deck of the steamer, I received a St. Andrews, Florida ( pistol shot in the forehead. We then took charge of the steamer, putting the crew under guard. She proved to be the steamship Florida, loading with cotton for the purpose of running the blockade. Found the boilers empty, and immediately pumped them up, and proceeded to get the steamer in working order. Finding the engineers to be Union men, we prevailed on them to assist in getting the steamer down. "At 11 a. m. got under M^ay and steamed slowly down the bay. After proceeding about five miles we grounded on an oyster bank, in mid-ch.^nnel ; used every effort to get her off without success; lay there all night. At 9 a. m., tide veering, succeeded in getting her afloat, but had scarcely gone a mile when we grounded on another bar. Findmg that I could not get her afloat, and provisions get- ting scarce. I held a consultation with the officers and crew, and concluded to set those on shore v/ho did not wish to take the oath of allegiance to the United States; which we did sending nine men and the chief engineer. "I then deemed it advisable to lighten the ship, which I did by throwing overboard thirty bales of cotton, consid- ering the ship in a critical condition. I offered to the pilot, Mr. H. Harrison; S muel Dayton, chief mate; and Robert Davidson first engineer, $500 each; likewise to Henry Jones, second engineer, $250; also to each of the greasers, $50, to induce them to make every effort to get the boat to sea. Next morning, at 9 o'clock, got the steamer afloat and proceeded down the bay. On arriving abreast of St. Andrews town, we found it impossible to cross the bay, owing to the heavy gale then blov.-ing from the southwest; c:me to an anchor. "Finding provisions getting scarce, and having pre- viously been informed by the pilot that the two families living th.ere were Unionists, I was induced to send the sloop Lafayette, in charge of James H, Barry, with five men and the pilot, with a flag of truce, to try and procure some. Seeing a flag of truce on shore, Mr. Barry and the pilot landed rnd were met by a woman who told them that they could get provisions at another place. As they were go-- ing to the boat, an alarm was given that a body of armed men, to the number of forty or fifty, were running toward them from the woods. They jumped into the boat and mr^de for the sloop, but had scarcely got twenty yards from the shore when they were fired at by the rebels. They suc- ceeded in getting on board the sloop; while doing which, however mother volley was fired instantly killing Samuel Lawrence badly wounding James Finney and also wound- ing James H. Barry and the pilot. They returned the fire 62 St. Andrews, Florida and succeeded in driving them back; got sloop under way and reached the steamer. We then fired six shells into the town from our small rifled 12-pounder, which we had taken from our boat and mounted on the steamer. The gale increaing, let go the other anchor, and kept the ship under steam all night. At 9 a. m. Jacob F. F. Wendt acci- dently shot himself in the groin. At 1 p. m. next day, wind abating, got under way and proceeded to East Pass. On reaching the pass and finding the sea running very high on the bar, rendering it impossible to cross without great risk, came to anchor. At 8 the next morning got under way; crossed the bar and proceeded to St. Joseph's bay at 11 a. m. "In conclusion I have to express my entire satisfac- tion with the conduct of the officers and men whom it was my good fortune to command. And furthermore, I wish to recommend to your notice the gallant conduct of Captain Harrison, our pilot, in bravely assisting to defend our men in the sloop against the tremendous odds opposed to them. I wish also to express my heartfelt thanks to Sailingmaster John C. Hamlin, and Master's Mate James H. Barry for their conduct during the expedition. "I am, sir, very respectfully, your obedient servant, "ELNATHAN LEWIS, "Acting Master and Executive Officers. "Volunteer Lieut. Gate, United States Bark Pursuit." The Confederate report relative to this affair is found in the two letters following; one being from the Colonel com- manding the Confederate troops in this section to Capt. R. S. Smith, and the other Captain Smith's report of the part taken by himself and men in the affray: "Hdqrs. Prov. Forces Dept. E. and M. Fla. "Tallahassee, Fla., April 7, 1862. "Capt. R. S. Smith, Comdg. Marianna Dragoons, "Marianna, Florida. "Captain : You will immediately proceed in the di- rection of Saint Andrews Bay with your troops rnd if pos- sible, recapture the steamer Florida, prevent all unneces- sary communication with the enemy, and arrest any per- son which you may have found grounds to suspect of trea- son. "Respectfully yours, "W. S. DILWORTH, "Colonel, Commanding District." St. Andrews, Florida 63 April 7th, 1862 — Affair at Saint Andrews Bay, Florida. Report of Capt. R. S. Smith, Marianna Dragoons. "Blue Spring Camp, April 16th, 1862. "Brig. Gen. Joseph Finegan, "Commanding Department. "Sir: In compliance with a telegraphic order (a copy of which is herewith enclosed) from Colonel Dilworth, then commanding, and received at my camp, six miles east of Marianna, at twelve o'clock, on the 7th instant, I started at three p. m. of the same day with my command, and arrived at three p. m. the next day at Saint Andrews Bay, having been in the saddle twenty-four hours, with only a rest of two hours to feed our horses. I found that the enemy had succeeded in getting the steamer Florida from her anchor- age up North Bay, and was then opposite the town of Saint Andrews. When about three miles from the town we heard a gun from the steamer, and riding then at half speed, I met one of my advance guard just before reaching the town, who informed me that the enemy were landing from a small sloop about a mile from us. I then dismount- ed my command and advanced rapidly through the woods, hoping to capture them. But the enemy saw us when two hundred yards off, and took to their boats. I then caused my command to open fire upon them. They were out of gunshot reach, but a portion of my command, who were armed with Maynard rifles, killed or disabled four or five of the seven. Having only five cartridges to the rifle, our ammunition was soon exhausted. Had I had sufficient cart- ridges, I am sure that I could have taken the sloop, and probably have re-taken the steamer, or at least burned her. The enemy fired on us with a long range gun, carrying round balls, which passed over our heads at a distance of half a mile. They also sent a few shell after us, but no one hurt on our side. The steamer then left the bay, and, after remaining some days, I returned with my command to camp. "Yours obediently, "R. S. SMITH, "Capt. Commanding Marianna Dragoons." With Apalachicola and Pensacola in the hands of the Fed- erals early in 1862, St. Andrews Bay offered the best remaining point for possible blockade running, then and later, on this part of the Gulf Coast. Of this work Davis, in his "Civil War and Reconstruction in Florida," quoting from reports from a Florida 64 St. Andrews, Florida "Loyalist," published in the New York Herald in September, 1862, says: "St. Andrew's Bay and St. George's Sound, (on which was Apalachicola Bay) on the west coast, and Mosquito Inlet on the east were the most important points." Governor Milton was opposed to blockade-running, claim- ing that it was detrimental to the cause of the Confederacy. There was much profiteering in connection with it, and to many who were engaged in this traffic the cause of the Confederacy was a secondary consideration. Governor Milton, in writing upon the subject on June 25th, 1862, said: "Citizens charged exorbitant prices for return car- goes. I made enquiry and found a co-partnership existed, formed by merchants in New Orleans, Havana, and New York, for blockade trade, whereby it is exchanged for cot- ton from Southern ports. This traffic is not unknown to those in command of the blockading fleet. By such base means not only is cotton obtained in New York and other Northern cities, but information prejudicial to our best in- terests is obtained, our slaves enticed away, and ignorant citizens corrupted by southern partners — men of north- em birth or vile Jews professing to supply the people of the South with salt, coffee, etc." Davis further says that "Scant record is left of blockade- running on the Florida coast." From May, 1861, to May, 1865, it is stated in the report of the Secretary of the Navy, that the Federal fleet captured 160 craft, either near the Florida coast, or in the harbors, but those reported captured here in St. An- drews Bay, or near by, were few in number, this being caused either by the laxity of the fleet, the letting of these cargoes slip out as suggested by Governor Milton, or the irregularity of the blockade. The report of those captured on the Florida coast shows that most of the vessels were schooners and sloops, these two classes aggregating 137 out of the 160 captured. Such ves- sels could navigate in and out the unmarked shallow channels into this and other bays where the work was being carried on, with less possibility of capture than could larger vessels. But the making of salt for the people and the Confederate government overshadowed all other activities on St. Andrews Bay from the outbreak of the war in 1861 until its close in 1865. So important was this business that three companies of St. Andrews, Florida 65 Confederates were kept in this section to protect the salt-mak- ers, many of which were also organized into companies and supplied with arms, as has been stated. In the fall of 1862 the demand for Confederate troops was so urgent elsewhere, that it was proposed by some of the military leaders to take the three companies away from this section. This brought out a strong appeal from Governor Milton to have them retained in this section, in which he was joined by the governor of Ala- bama. The following correspondence throws additional light on this subject: "Executive Department, "Tallahassee, November 5th, 1862. "Brig. Gen. John Forney : "Sir: I introduce to your acquaintance Dr. John Er- win, first lieutenant of a company in your department com- manded by Capt. Robinson. There are two cavalry com- panies, one commanded by Captain Thigpen, the other by Captain Blocker, and the infantry commanded by W. J. Robinson. Dr. Erwin will give you all necessary informa- tion relative to them. Gen. Finegan is making an effort to have the companies transferred to this department, in which event a very important portion of your department would be left entirely unprotected, and I hope you will co- operate with me in opposing the transfer, and issue the necessary orders to secure subsistence for the companies and for their active performance of duties. "Respectfully, "JOHN MILTON, "Governor of Florida." This section of Florida was in Gen. Forney's district, whose headquarters were at Mobile. Gen, Finegan was in command of what was designated the East and Middle District of Florida, with headquarters at Tallahassee. On the west he had charge of the protection of the Apalachicola river. General Forney took the subject up with General Beauregard, at Charleston, in the following letter: "Hdqrs. District Gulf, "Mobile, Nov. 12th, 1962. "General G. T. Beauregard: "General: I enclose you letters of the Governors of Alabama and Florida, expressing their desire that the 66 St. Andrews, Florida three companies of Florida troops may be retained west of the Apalachicola. Your dispatch of November 11th, answered by telegraph today, styles them cavalry. Two of the companies only are of cavalry. They are stationed respectively on the Apalachicola, near Dead Lake, and on St. Andrews Bay, at the head of the Northern Arm. The infantry company is near the town of Saint Andrews. These troops are within my district, and playing an im- portant part in guarding the coast and preventing the run- ning off of negroes. I cannot replace them, and request that they be continued in their present stations. "General Finegan has exercised command over them heretofore and I wish him to continue to do so, for I have no one in that region of country to whom to intrust such a command. "I will direct Major Johnston, quartermaster at Eu- faula, Ala., to furnish supplies under General Finegan's orders, if so desired. I will also send General Finegan copy of this letter. "I am, general, very respectfully, your obedient servant, "JOHN H. FORNEY, "Major-General Commanding." From this letter of General Forney it would appear that General Beauregard had taken up the matter of making the transfer, and consequent removal from this section, of these companies which were guarding the salt-makers and attend- ing to other duties. The Governor of Alabama joined in the appeal to have these companies left here in the following letter: "Executive Department, "Montgomery, Ala., November 10, 1862. "The suggestion of Governor Milton is heartily ap- proved, and I hope General Forney will accept and provide for the troops named. Maj. L. F. Johnston, quartermaster, C. S. Army, at Eufaula, Ala., can furnish needful supplies if ordered. "JNO. GILL SHORTER. "Governor of Alabama." The raids made on the salt-makers were so damaging to the people of Alabama, Georgia and West Florida, that soon after this correspondence the governors of Georgia, Alabama and Florida united in an appeal to President Davis, at Rich- St. Andrews, Florida 67 mond, that he "order the formation of a new military depart- ment," to be composed of the six southeastern counties in Ala- bama ; the fourteen counties in southwestern Georgia ; and the following ten in West Florida: Leon, Gadsden, Wakulla, Jef- ferson, Madison, Liberty, Washington, Jackson, Calhoun and Franklin. With Apalachicola and St. Joseph Bay in the hands of the Federals, all this section above referred to was mainly dependent upon St. Andrews Bay for what little maritime trade could be carried on, and for their salt supply as well. The result of this appeal was that General Howell Cobb had this territory added to his district. Soon after he visited this section on an inspection tour, and upon his return to head- quarters at Quincy, Fla., submitted a report to General Beau- regard, from which report we take the following: "During my absence I visited that portion of the dis- trict lying between the Apalachicola and Choctawhatchee Rivers. Between the populated portion of that section and the coast and bays is an almost desert country of nearly fifty miles in extent. There is no reason to apprehend an invasion or raid of the enemy in that quarter beyond the salt-works on Saint Andrew's Bay. This interest has be- come an extensive and important one. It has already at- tracted the attention of the enemy, and two efforts have recently been made by them to break up these works. I found the few troops there stationed too far from the coast to render timely aid. I changed them to more convenient posts, and have taken steps to concentrate the operation in the salt-works within narrower limits. These steps, in connection with the action of the Florida legislature au- thorizing the organization of the salt workers for their own defense, will, I hope, enable me in the future to pre- vent any serious mterruption in these works." In connection with this activity on the part of the govern- ors of Alabama, Georgia and Florida, with a view to protecting the salt-makers, the report of operations by the Federals, late in 1862, will be appropriate. The report of Lieutenant Com- mander Hart is, possibly, the best and most complete descrip- tion of the destruction of the salt-works that has been written. It is more than the usual brief report made by commanding of- ficers. Following are the official Federal reports covering the operations against the salt-works: 68 St. Andrews, Florida Destruction of Salt-Works on St. Andrews Bay and on Coast of Texas ''Flagship Hartford, "New Orleans, Dec. 17, 1862. "Sir: I have the honor herewith to enclose a report from Lieutenant Commander Hart, also of Acting Master G. W. Brown, of the destruction of the salt-works near St. Andrews Bay. I also enclose a report from Acting Master Commanding Dillingham, of salt-works destroyed on the Texas coast. "Very respectfully, your obedient servant, "D. G. FARRAGUT, "Rear Admiral. "Hon. Gideon Welles, "Sec'ty of Navy." Report of Lieutenant Commander J. E. Hart, Commanding United States Steamer Albatross. "United States Steamer Albatross, "At Sea, December 9, 1862. "Sir: On the 14th of November, I proceeded to sea, in obedience to your orders of the 5th, taking in tow the United States brig Bohio, Acting Master George W. Brown commanding; that vessel being placed under my command by Commodore Henry H. Bell, to assist me in destroying the salt-works on the coast, between Pensacola and St. An- drews Bay, Florida. Along this part of the coast there were but few salt-works to be found until we reached a place called Phillip's inlet, (not laid down on the chart) this was the only spot that had the appearance of doing any business in the salt line ; but the surf was so heavy that our boats could not land without wetting the arms and ammunition of the crews, I deemed it produent to wait for a smooth time, so that I could effectually destroy all their works. "Carefully noticing and counting all their furnaces as I went, I continued on my course until I reached St. An- drews Bay, off the entrance of which I anchored. A boat from the United States schooner Wanderer c.?;me off to us; and on the following day (16th November) the wind hav- ing veered round to the southward and eastward, bringing in a heavy swell, I again took the Bohio in tow, ran in and anchored under shelter of Hurricane island. During the afternoon I took two • rmed boats to reconnoitre, and pull- ed into an arm of St. Andrew's bay that extends due West and is only separated from the sea for fifteen or sixteen miles by a narrow strip of land, in m?ny places less tliun a St. Andrews, Florida 69 quarter of a mile wide. I wanted to see if it was quite possible for me to get with an armed force to the rear of the salt-works at Phillip's inlet, and destroy them in that way. "I found I could not get at them without a march of over six miles through the sand, and that my best way was, when the sea was smooth, to land in our boats. By tak- ing this little trip, however, I chanced to see and learn the extent of the salt manufactories along the shores of the bays or bayous and creeks of St. Andrew's bay. It quite surprised me, and I felt sure if I did all that I could to destroy them I would not exceed your orders, which were to run up the coast and destroy the salt-works between this place (Pensacola) and St. Andrews bay. I saw the smoke of a very large number, and when I returned on board that night the sky was lit up, both to the eastward and westward, away inland for a long distance. I after- ward learned that they, not having been molested here, had collected in great numbers. ..... **0n the 17th the Wanderer in attempting to work up the bay, got aground ; and I went to her assistance with the steamer, and concluded to follow her up the bay to the town of St. Andrew's. With the exception of three men and two women the place was deserted. There were boats hauled upon the beach, and under sheds that were ser- viceable, and which I set fire to and otherwise destroyed, at the suggestion of Acting Master Turner, of the Wan- derer, who thought they might be put to improper use, and if manned and armed could give great annoyance, in en- deavoring to capture the boats of the schooner, carrying salt across the bay, or running the blockade. Within a few miles of the town I destroyed several salt pans, with their furnaces, pumps, tubs, and gutters, etc.; two or three of these pans were made of the coast survey harbor buoys cut in two; esch half would hold over one hundred and fifty gallons of sea water. . . . . , "We found ourselves, while at anchor off the town, constantly watched by a company of cavalry, numbering, as ne?r as we could learn, about ninety men; they took good care, however, to keep out of harm's way. For a whole week we sent out armed boats to reconnoitre in all directions and to destroy all boats, salt pans, etc., in the neighborhood. On the morning of the 24th of November, at 4 a. m.. I started off with an expedition under my com- mand in the direction of North Bay. The Bohio furnished two boats and thirty men, one of the boats having a how- itzer; and the Albatross armed and equipped three boats with thirty men, besides a working gang of coal-heavers 70 St. Andrews, Florida and firemen, with sledge-hammers, top-mauls, cold-chis- els and axes. The officers belonging to the Albatross which accompanied the expedition were Acting Master Theodore B. Dubois and Acting Ensign John H. Harris. "We proceeded up an arm of St. Andrew's bay, called North bay, for about twelve or fourteen miles, and reached a point of land, where we concluded to rest until broad daylight. "The bay was very wide at this point and a fog hung over the water, preventing us from seeing which way to go. As soon as we lay on our oars we thought we heard voices on shore. Pulling in the direction we soon ascer- tained that we were near quite a number of people, and as we came nearer we not only heard voices, but we heard dogs barking and horses neighing, and we feit quite sure we had stumbled upon a company of cavalry and soldiers, for day was breaking, and what we afterward found out were canvas-covered wagons we then mistook for tents. I thought I would startle them, and ordered a shell to be sent over their heads, and in a minute there never was heard such shouting and confusion; they seemed not to know which way to run. "Some of their mules and horses they succeeded in harnessing to the wagons, and some they ran off to the woods beyond as fast as they could be driven, a shell now and then over their heads making them hurry faster. The water was so shoal that our men had to wade over two hundred yards through the water over a muddy bottom to the shore, and before they reached it the people had all left, and we could just see them through the woods at a long distance off. We threw our pickets, and Acting Mas- ter Brown, with the men belonging to the Bohio, took one direction, and I. with my men and officers, took the other, and with top-mauls, axes, sledge-hammers and shovels, we commenced the destruction of salt-kettles, salt-pans, and mason work, for we had got into a settlement of salt workers. "To give you an idea of our seven hours' labor I refer you to the accompanying report of Acting M?ster Brown, and list, and also my list of salt-kettles. To render every- thing completely unfit for future use we h* d to knock down all the brick work, to destroy the salt already made, to knock in the heads and set fire to the b^^rrels. boxes and everything that would hold salt; to burn the sheds and houses in which it was stowed and to disable "nd burn up the wagons that we found loaded with it. The kettles being such as are used in making sugar, we knew St. Andrews, Florida 7 1 the capacity by the marks on them, but the salt-pans we could only tell by measurement, which we had no time to do ; so that our total estimate of the amount of sea water that was boiling in them when we arrived is far short of what it really was. Our pickets brought in five M^hite men and three negroes; the white men were paroled and the negroes were brought away by us, "To our suprise we heard that we had driven off nine hundred men and boys, all of whom had been here for some months. They had all heard of the frequent attacks upon them by the boats of Admiral Lardner's squadron, and some of them had come from salt-works further down the coast. "After we had finished with these here, we pulled to another place four miles distant. The people saw our boats coming, and they commenced putting out their fires and securing their kettles. We gave chase, and Acting Master DuBois, after a dead run of three miles across a swamp and two creeks, with eight or ten men, succeeded in capturing five wagcnis, which he let go after breaking the kettles that were in them. At this place we destroyed over forty frunaces and sheds, besides pumps and kettles. After this day's work and a pull of thirty miles together, our men returned to their vessels, and, strange to say, that al- though nearly all were wet through as high as the waist all day long, there had not been one sick. "On the morning of the 26th at 3 a. m., with a force of the same number of men and boats, and with two how- itzers mounted, we quietly pulled with muffled oars in an- other direction to the eastward. At daybreak we landed at a place where there were a number of salt-works in full operation, and set fire to and destroyed the sheds and fire- wood, and salt-pots and pans. There were thirty alto- gether here, but many of the kettles had been taken away. Three miles beyond was another place where we found ex- tensive preparations for making salt and the arrange- ments were complete in every way. Here were large furnaces that had never been used, and there were brick kilns and sheds for drying brick, an excellent claying soil. All their sheds and furnaces, etc., we destroyed or ren- dered useless. Beyond this place, thirteen miles distant, we were informed was another large settlement, called California inlet, where there were said to be a thousand salt-makers, under the protection of a large body of cav- alry. "As our boats' crew had already pulled eighteen miles, and were wet and somewhat tired, I thought it not T^ St. Andrews, Florida advisable to add thirteen miles more to it; their condition when they returned to their vessels, after such a day's work, would have been anything but a proper one. How- ever, our day's work was not yet finished, for on our way back we discerned that we had passed in the dark three or four small salt-works, which we visited and destroyed. "On the 28th of November we dropped down to the entrance of St. Andrews bay and prepared for sea. The wind came out from the southward and westward, with rain and foggy weather, and with a heavy swell on, and we were detained until the 30th, when we saw a strange sail to the southward. Got under way and stood out to- ward it; but the weather getting hazy, we lost sight of her. Again visited the salt-works along the shores toward the east end of Santa Rosa island, but could not effect a safe and dry landing to our armed boats and crews, and return- ed to the anchorage behind Hurricane island, where my consort the Bohio lay. The following week we had rains, fog, and southerly winds. Our boats were employed in visiting the upper bays to watch for salt-makers. On Sat- urday afternoon, the 6th, the wind came around to the north, and the weather became clear and cold, and the sea commenced going down. ''On Monday, the 8th, we took the Bohio in tow and stood along the coast toward Pensacola bay, landing and destroying the salt-works between St. Andrews and Santa Rosa island as we came across them. "The works at Phillip's inlet were not as extensive as they had been represented to me. I found only a few, and away inland, upon the shores of the bayou, which extends two or three miles. I saw neither smoke nor fires. At sun- set I stood to the southward ten miles and cast off the Bohio to proceed on her course ; stood in shore again and anchored until this morning, 9th November, at daylight, when I got under way for Pensacola. "During this short cruise I have hiid an excellent op- portunity of seeing the courage, endurance and cheerful- ness of the crew under my command; h?.d there been a good armed resistance made to our descent upon the salt- works, they would have found our men a tough party to handle. Of the officers I cannot speak in too high praise; it is owing to them solely that my crew are well drilled and obedient. "The Bohio rendered me much assistance with her boats and men, and Captain Brown and his officers showed a praiseworthy alacrity in complying with every request and order of mine. St. Andrews, Florida 73 "Enclosed you will find the report of Acting Master George W. Brown, commanding United States brig Bohio, with his list of salt-pans, etc., destroyed, and a list also of mines that were destroyed by the crew of the Albatross. "Respectfully, your obedient servant, "JOHN E. HART, "Lt. Com'dg. "Rear Admiral D. G. Farragut, "Commanding W. G. B. Squadron." "Account of salt pots and pans destroyed by an ex- pedition from United States steamer Albatross, Nov. 24, 1862, St. Andrew's bay, Florida. "Lieut. Com'dr JOHN E. HART. "Commanding. No. Pots Capacity of each in Gallons Total Gallons 24 6, 150; 12, 100; 5, 75; 3, 125 2,700 25 11, 40; 10, 70; 4, 75 1,440 21 25 525 12 3, 100; 5, 70; 4, 75 950 39 9, 100 ; 6, 70 ; 9, 45 ; 9, 40 ; 6, 25 2,235 17 8, 150; 4, 100; 5, 40 1»800 35 8, 125; 20, 45; 9, 45 1,875 33 3, 150 ; 2, 100 ; 20, 70 ; 8, 45 2,410 24 - 9, 100; 9, 70; 9, 25 1,705 250 1^250 5 235 16'890 90 1'800 50 ... : 2,950 (Dec. 8) 59 .... Total 21.640 "With the above there were destroyed furnaces, pumps, boxes, barrels, sheds, houses and wagons contam- ing salt in quantities that I could not estimate. Whenever I found anything connected with the manufactory of salt, 1 destroyed it. "Respectfully, "JOHN E. HART, "Lt. Com'dr., U. S. N." 74 St. Andrews, Florida Report of Acting Master George W. Browne of the United States brig Bohio "United States brig Bohio, "St. Andrews Bay, November 25, 1862. "Sir: Accordingto your request, I respectfully report that on the morning November 24, at 4 a. m., I started from this vessel with two boats the larger having a light 12 pounder howitzer mounted for service — and thirty men, armed with rifles, muskets, and carbines. Taking the cutter in tow, I proceeded with all possible dispatch up North bay to a point not laid down on my chart, but at a supposed distance of twelve miles. Previous to my arrival, I discovered large volumes of smoke, covering the vicinity of our intended landing, and on going close I discovered numerous small fires which I concluded were camp fires^ particularly when I distinctly heard the challenge of "Who comes there," from a person I took to be a soldier on the shore. The day was just breaking when you called my at- tention to the noise and confusion in the camp. When we could see well we discovered numerous bands of men and horses, which appeared forming to give us battle. We then decided to pepper them a little, and accordingly we opened on them with shrapnell and canister. After firing thirteen rounds we landed, having had to wade in mud and water above our knees. You directed me to proceed at once with my command and destroy all the salt cauld- rons and salt I could discover, together with all the wagons and conveyances of the men employed at the works, which I faithfully did, killing all the mules I could find and burn- ing wagons a.nd appurtenances. "I ascertained from some prisoners I took that there were some* 2,500 men engaged in this vicinity making salt, and that there were about 1000 men engaged here but they had run off when our shells began to play about them. Some of them were armed with rifles, and others with shot- guns. One of the latter I found stowed away in a wagon, loaded with heavy buckshot. The salt-works I destroyed here were on a large scale, and I should judge, from the immense number, and from what the prisoners said, that 500 bushels a day would be within the estimate of their labors. "According to your orders. I followed your boats some five miles up West bay; had the s:^me difficulty through landing in mud and water; made a half circuit of the island in the opposite direction from that you had taken; destroyed a number of salt-works that had been left with great alacrity; killed several cattle, and then took my men across a deep morass of mud, crossed over St. Andrews, Florida 73 on the mainland, and destroyed numerous works, burning all the houses and appurtenances attached. All the salt I effectively destroyed by mixing it with sand in such quan- tities as to render it perfectly useless. At six p. m. I re- ceived orders to return, and arrived back to this vessel 8:40 p. m. The men were much fatigued with the day's labor, and several of them had their feet cut and injured by the exposure. "I take much pleasure in commending Master's Mate Samuel H. Heath and James Sheppard for the able man- ner they performed their duty; and all the men behaved and worked admirably, particularly Daniel Parsons, boats- wain's mate, who is worthy of a better position. "Enclosed please find a detailed report of the destruc- tion of salt and cauldrons by the party under my com- mand. "Very respectfully, your obedient servant, "GEORGE W. BROWNE, "Acting Master Commanding. "Lieut. Com'dr. John E. Hart, "In command of Expedition." Account of Pots and Salt Destroyed by Boat Expedition from United States Brig Bohio, George W. Browne Commanding. No. Pans Capacity of each in Gallons 6 100 600 10 7 200 1,400 4 9 6, 200; 3, 100 1,500 3 5 150 750 4 6 2, 60; 4, 100 520 6 4 80 320 9 13 9, 100; 4, 75 1,200 7 2 150 300 2 14 11, 90; 3, 150 1,440 175 7 4, 60 ; 3, 100 540 60 6 4, 100 ; 2, 50 500 20 8 4. 60 ; 4, 40 400 40 17 10, 100; 7, 80 1,560 50 4 150 600 19 5 100 500 1 7 40 280 2 5 60 300 70 6 100 600 60 2 150 300 20 4 90 360 2 5 100 500 3 76 St. Andrews, Florida 3 .... 60 180 1 250 250 4 100 400 2 400 800 152 16,100 568 "St. Andrews Bay, November 24, 1862, "Respectfully, "GEORGE W. BROWNE, "Acting Master, Commanding. "Lieut. Com'dr John E. Hart, "Commanding Expedition." These raids, though very destructive, failed to check salt making on St. Andrews Bay. With its hundreds of miles of shore line, secluded bayous surrounded by forests, it was an easy matter to start making salt at one point, by the time that the work had been stopped at another. Salt was, at that time, selling at a dollar a pound in the interior of the state, and there was as much speculation in that business as there was in block- ade-running. Davis, in his work on Florida in the war, writing upon this subject in connection with later expeditions, says: "Salt making was profitable and necessary. There- fore it died hard in Florida. Within a few weeks the smoke of industry was again rising from the shores of St. Andrews Bay, and scarcely two months later, (during February, 1864) boat expeditions began over again the work of destruction. The new Confederate works had been in operation only ten days. They covered a clearing one-half mile square. The loss amounted to probably sev- eral hundred thousand dollars." This writer further says: "Certainly these raids on a war-time industry were among the most easily accomplished and disastrous blows struck the Confederacy in Florida. The government lost several million dollars' worth of valuable property, private owners lost about as much as the government, and the people lost the salt which they needed very much. The blockading squadron did the work. Never more than 250 sailors and marines took part in the destruction — aided sometimes by runaway negroes and white Union men. The Federal navy thus not only kept out of the South necessary supplies from abroad but it almost put a stop to the production in Florida of a very necessary commod- ity — salt." St. Andrews, Florida 77 The next affair of moment here in St. Andrews was the fight at Old Town, on March 20th, 1863. Some twenty years ago the writer furnished The' Buoy of this city with an account of this fight, which is herewith re-published, with the addition of the official reports of the affair as made by both Federal and Confederate officers. On the morning of March 20th, 1863, the U. S. bark Roe- buck lay at her moorings under the lea of Hurricane island, idly drifting with the tide. There was unusual activity on board the bark that morning, for rumors had reached the commander that a "blockade-runner" was being loaded somewhere up the bay. and preparing to slip out through the Pass on some dark, stormy night, with its valuable cargo of cotton, and a searching party was being fitted out to ascertain the whereabouts of the "run- ner" and possibly capture or destroy her, A howitzer had been placed in the bow of one of the bark's boats, a supply of am- munition taken on board, and Acting Master Folger, with eleven men, six landsmen and five seamen who had been as- signed to the work at hand, took their places in the boat. It was a balmy spring morning, the air hazy with the smoke from forest fires and the innumerable salt works with which the bay Was lined, while a gentle southerly breeze brought to the Roebuck the odors of jasmine and honeysuckle from the woods to the windward, with which Hurricane island was then' covered. It was a morning to inspire the men with a longing for more active service than was afforded by the daily routine on a vessel engaged in the blockading service, and those accompanying Acting Master Folger felt greatly pleased over their selection for this expedition, little dreaming as they sailed away of the terrible fate the day had in store for them. It was not the intention of Commander Sherrell of the Roe- buck that the party should make any landing, but pursuing the search with the boat, should destroy or capture the "runner," if it were possible for them to do so. But as the forenoon wore away without their discovering any signs of her, and while they were skirting the shore off "Old Town," it was decided to make a landing and secure a supply of water from the famous "Old Town Spring." Leaving two seamen in charge of the boat, Acting Master Folger with the remainder of the crew. 78 St. Andrews, Florida six landsmen and three seamen, landed in front of the "Spring" lot, formed raks, and as light hearted and unsuspicious of dan- ger as though on dress parade, With their flag gaily floating o'er them, marched westward along the beach, and across the lot between the houses, toward the spring, while the boat sailed along the shore about three hundred feet away. Just before nightfall on March 19th, Captain Robinson, of the Confederate forces, with his company, consisting of a lieutenant, sergeant, and twenty men, arrived at "Old Town," and went into camp. The extensive salt plants on the shores of the bay, which were then being run at their full capacity to supply the Confederate armies and much of the Confederacy, together with the blockade running to and from the bay, caus- ed the Confederates to keep a small force in that vicinity. But few of the thirty-odd houses which then comprised what is now known as "Old Town" were at that season of the year occupied; they being principally the summer residences of visitors to the bay. The large two story log structure, with broad verandas and extensive frame additions on the east and west ends, originally erected by ex-Governor Clark, of Georgia, on the "Spring" lot, where G. M. West's residence now stands, was the most imposing structure in the little village. It was surrounded by magnolias, hickories, and oaks, with a small orange grove in the rear of the house, extending north and east of the spring. When Captain Robinson discovered that the force from the boat was about to land he formed his men back of this house and. hidden by the bluff, awaited a favorable opportun- ity to attack the party. Unsuspicious of the dangers around the, Folger and his men were proceeding toward the spring, v/hen, within seventy-five yards of them, there appeared as though from out the earth. Captain Robinson's force. Although taken by surprise, and in the presence of an en- emy double their number, they refused Captain Robinson's de- mand to surrender, whereupon the latter ordered his men to open fire. There was an attempt to retreat by the little party but owing to the close proximity of the two forces the closed ranks of Folger's men, and the more scattered condition of Robinson's company, the effect of the latter's first fire wrs ter- ribly disastrous, two-thirds of the retreating force being then St. Andrews, Florida 79 and there either seriously or mortally wounded, and ere they reached the water's edge, Ralph B. Snow, ordinary seaman, had dropped dead near the old hickory that stood on the edge of the bluff, while seaman Thomas King died a short distance out in the water. The guns in use at that date, and particularly those used by Captain Robinson's force, were not the quick-firing repeat- ing rifles with which armies are equipped at the present time, and to reload was a task consuming some little time, but as fast as this could be done, the firing was resumed upon the flee- ing men, who were now wading and swimming toward their boat; but owing to their being in the water, widely scattered, and farther away, further casualties were not great. But the glistening white sands of the beach were already spotted with crimson, the life blood of the joyous party who so brief a time before had proudly crushed the salty crust beneath their feet, and littered with guns, accoutrements and cothing. which had been dropped or cast aside in their disastrou.s re- treat. Of the ten men forming the party, two had been killed nearly outright, three were fatally and three seriously wound- ed, while no one escaped unharmed. The two seamen seeing their companions running toward the water after the first death-dealing volley, and realizing that they had been ambushed, began to work the boat close in to the shore opposite the old pine on the beach, that they might quickly aid them in their efforts to escape. They also opened fire with their muskets upon Captain Robinson's men, who were then charging into the water up to their waists, keeping up a continuous fire upon the two men in the boat, and on those at- tempting to reach it, the most of whom, being badly wounded, were making slow progress towrrd it. Owing to the manner in v/hich the boat had to be sailed parallel to the shore, to quicker reach the men in the water, or afford them a chance to reach the boat, the howitzer could not be trained upon the enemy, even had the two had the time to have fired it. It was now a fight of twenty against two, with all the advantage of position in favor of the stronger force, and as the boat was steadily get- ting nearer the shore, the firing of Captain Robinson's men be- came more effective and, burdened as they were with their wounded companions who had already regained the boat's 80 St. Andrews, Florida shelter, the two seamen concluded it best for themselves and the others depending upon them, to lower their flag and sur- render, which they did. The firing then stopped, and the men in the boat having requested of Captain Robinson permission to pick up the re- mainder of their dead and wounded, it was granted, and they began the work at once. The picking up of the wounded, and the body of seaman Thomas King, required the moving of the boat to and fro along the shore for some little time, and before the last man had been taken on board, the few survivors had planned an attempt to escape by stealthily working the boat out of range of the old fashioned guns of their enemies, who upon the surrender of the boat had returned to the shore from their charge into the water, thus still farther increasing their distance from the boat. Had Captain Robinson entertained the least idea that the crippled men would attempt such a bold move, there would have been no cessation of the firing by his men,. and the boat would have been ordered beached and taken possession of by him when it was surrendered ; but as the last man was taken out of the blood stained waters, the boat being then quite a distance from shore, and the wind being favorable, the crippled crew hoisted their sail, much to the astonishment of the wrathful victors on shore, who at once re-opened fire upon them, but they were soon safely out of range and sailing swiftly toward the "pass." As Captain Robinson had no boat with which to pursue them, he had to content himself with the destruction he had effected and with such fruits of his victory as had been left by the fleeing men on shore. These consisted of their flag, four minnie muskets, three cartridge boxes, three bayonets, rnd one pair of oars, besides a quantity of bloodstained cast off cloth- ing, and the body of seaman Snow, which was buried beneath the hickory where he fell. At 2 p. m. the survivors in the boat reached the Roebuck, and reported the disaster that had overtaken the expedition, the most fatal considering the number engaged, that ever be- fell he East Gulf Coast Squadron. The three men fatally in- jured died on board the Roel)uck and were buried amidst the tall pines and old live oaks on Hurricane island, their bodies afterward being removed, together with the body of Snow, to St. Andrews, Florida 81 the National Cemetery, at Pensacola. The captured flag was sent by Captain Robinson, through his superior officers, to the Department Headquarters at Charlestown, and General Beau- regard, then commanding that Department, officially thanked him and his men for their victory. Each spring the red-birds brighten that same ground that fifty-five years ago was crimsoned with the precious life-blood of many a brave man, and the songs of innumerable birds fill the air with peaceful music where on that March morning of long ago, there was the hiss and whine of death-dealing bullets. Occasionally even now the plow will turn out, or the children will pick up on the beach while at their play, a dulled, rusty button, which on that eventful day was the bright eagle orna- ment on the uniform of a "marine;" sad reminders of the fate- ful volley which laid low so many of the Roebuck's stalwart men on that balmy spring morning of March 20th, 1863. Official Reports of U. S. and Confederate Officers of the Fight at "Old Town" Unfortunate Boat Reconnoisance at St. An- drews, Bay, Florida "United States Flag Ship St. Lawrence, "Key West, April 21, 1863. "Sir: I enclose herewith the report of Acting Mas- ter Sherrell, commanding bark Roebuck, of an unfortunate affair, in which Acting Master James Folger and the launch's crew of eleven men were engaged, and which re- sulted in the death of two of the men and the wounding of six. "It seems that Capt. Sherrell, having heard that a vessel was loading with cotton up St. Andrews Bay, sent up his launch and crew to reconnoiter. For some reason of which I am not advised, Mr. Folger in charge of that party made a landing. "The boat's crew were fired upon by a large guerilla force with fatal effect and barely escaped with their lives. Mr. Folger paying dearly for his incautiousness, as the re- port shows. "I think the landing was ill-advised. "Very respectfully, "Your obedient servant. "THEODORE BAILEY. "Acting Rear Admiral, "Commanding E. G. B. Squadron." 82 St. Andrews, Florida Report of Acting Master John Sherrell, of the Roebuck "United States Bark Roebuck, "St. Andrews Bay, March 20, 1863. "Sir: I have to inform the Department that this morning I sent the launch of this vessel with an armed crew of eleven men, up the bay on a reconnoisance. The boat returned at 2 o'clock p. m., the crew having been at- tacked by a guerilla party of over fifty (50) men and met with the following severe loss: "Killed, Thomas King, seaman ; Ralph B. Snow, or- dinary seaman. "Wounded, Acting Master James Folger, severely; Robert Wilkes, captain of forecastle, mortally; Andrew C. Snyder, landsman, mortally; Neil O'Donnell, landsman^ mortally; Charles Sweet, landsman, slightly; George H. French, ordinary seaman, slightly. The body of Ralph B. Snow was not brought off. "Thomas Wylie, ordinary seaman, and James Kitch- en, landsman, deserve much credit for bringing the boat off safely, when nearly all the rest of the crew were killed or wounded. I have the honor to be, "Very respectfully, "Your obedient servant, "JOHN SHERRELL, "Acting Master, U. S. Navy, "Commanding U. S. Bark Roebuck. "Hon. Gideon Welles, "Secretary of the Navy, "Washington, D. C." Report of Maj. W. W. Scott, C. S. Army, 1st. Bat., Fla. Inf. "Headquarters, Marianna, W. F., Mar. 22, 1863. "Dear Sir: I have the honor to report an affair of Capt. Robinson's, on St. Andrews Bay. His report to me is as follows: " 'I proceeded to the town of St. Andrews on the 19th instant with a lieutenant, sergeant and twenty men. Ar- riving just before night, I encamped. Yesterday morning, March 20. about 10:30 o'clock, the enemy came into the bay in a launch, on which was mounted a brass howitzer, I think a twelve-pounder, and landed an armed party, con- sisting of an officer ad 9 men, 2 men remaining in the boat. They formed and marched down the beach, the boat keep- ing opposite to them. I formed my men and taking advan- tage of a bluff, charged within 75 yards of them before we were discovered. Being the stronger party, I ordered St. Andrews, Florida 83 them to surrender, which they refused to do, but attempted to get on their boat. I ordered my men to fire and brought down 4 or 5. We charged into the water after them about waist deep, which brought us within their musket range from the boat, and our firing was so hot they could not board her, but swam out in the bay. Several attempted to get on board, but were killed. The men in the boat tried to fire their cannon, but were so badly wounded they were not able to do so. They finally lowered their flag and ask- ed for quarter. I immediately ordered my men to cease firing. They then asked permission to pick up their wounded and drowning, which was granted. They got two on board ; the balance had sunk, and being then nearly out of range they hoisted sail and escaped with boat. We had no boat to board them and the water was too deep to wade. There were but three men in the boat able to sit up. and one of them was shot from his seat as they went off. One escaped in the woods and we were unable to cap- ture him. I do not think a single man escaped unhurt as we could see from the blood that the two that remained in the boat were seriously wounded. We got their flag. 4 minnie muskets, 3 cartridge boxes, 3 bayonets, also 1 pair oars. I should have taken the boat but for their begging quarter.' "I have received flag captured by Captain Robinson, and will forward to the commanding general if he directs me. I am, Captain, "Your obedient servant,, etc., "E. W. SCOTT, "Major, Commanding. "Captain James Barrow, Ass't Gen'l." "Headquarters Dept. South Carolina, Georgia and Florida. "Charleston, S. C, April 3, 1863. "Brig. Gen. H. Cobb, "Commanding District of East Florida. "General : "The commanding general directs me, through you. to express to Captains G. W. Scott and Robinson, and the of- ficers non-commissioned officers and men of their respect- ive command, his high sense of their soldierly conduct on the occasions reported severally by Maj. W. W. Scott and Capt. G. W. Scott. By enterprises such as these, conducted with coolness and address and characterized by resolute courage, small detachments of our troops may strike the enemy with such effect as to prevent them from landing within the limits of your command. 84 St. Andrews, Florida **The flags captured should be sent to these head- quarters by some convenient opportunity. If you deem it proper or convenient, you might by flag of truce communi- cate to the commander of the United States forces to which the St. Andrews Bay party belonged, the statement of Cap- tain Scott, and demand the surrender of the boat and its arms and equipments, as it stood when surrendered, and the men, and notify them that unless this is done that here- after quarter must be denied under similar circumstances. "I am likewise instructed to say to you that the gen- eral is much gratified by the prompt manner in which you sent assistance to Brigadier General Finegan. "Respectfully, "Your obedient servant, "THOMAS JORDAN, "Chief of Staff." Acting Assistant Surgeon M. G. Raef ley's Report of Casualties "United States Bark Roebuck, "St. Andrew's Bay, Florida, "March 21, 1863. "Sir: I have to report the following casualties of the attack of the guerillas upon our boat's crew at St. An- drew's town, Florida. Killed: Thomas King, seaman, shot through the head ; Ralph B. Snow, ordinary seaman, re- ported shot through the head; his body was not recovered. "Wounded mortally: Robert Wilkes, captain of the forecastle wounded in seven places, with three balls and five buckshot; one of the balls entered the umbilical re- gion ; another ball entered the right forearm, and grazing the elbow joint, broke the humerus in its lower third; the other wounds are flesh wounds. "Neal O'Donnell, landsman, received two balls in the upper half of his right humerus, fracturing it badly; a buckshot in right shoulder; another buckshot through the auricle of right ear, lodging in the cheek ; and still an- other in the right thigh. "Andrew K Snyder, landsman, wounded in the head with buckshot, penetrating the skull, and a ball in right forearm, shattering the ulva. "Wounded severely: James Folger, acting master and executive officer, struck on the right knee apparently by a rifle ball, which after grazing the upper extremety of the fibula, was lost in the soft parts. "George French, ordinary seaman, received a flesh wound in his right forearm by a ball, and another slight wound on the left hand. St. Andrews, Florida 85 "Wounded slightly: Charles Sweet, seaman, ball graz- ing right shoulder, and left side of throat, James Kichen, landsman, cut wound in right shoulder, "Very respectfully, your obedient servant, "MAX G. RAEFLEY, "Acting Assistant Surgeon. "Acting Master John Sherrell, "Commanding United States Bark Roebuck." There was no delay after these raids in getting at the work again of making salt, nor did the blockading fleet lose much time in raiding these new establishments. The next important raid made was that of December, 1863, which operations are described in the following reports, A correspondent of the New York Herald estimated the property destroyed as follows : 500 boilers and kettles averaging 150 gallons each, at $5 per gallon, $375,000; value of manufactured salt, $120,000; Con- federate Government works, three-fourths of a mile square, with buildings, $500,000; 199 small salt works of 100 gallons each, $1,999,000; total, $2,985,000, The works of the Confed- erate Government had just been completed but ten days before, and were very complete and extensive. Another private report states that 98 brick furnaces were destroyed, and 100 buildings. This was possibly about the date of the greatest activity on St, Andrews Bay, and it brought here a large number of people. There were also many deserters and runaway negroes in this section at that time. "United States Flag-Ship San Jacinto, "Key West, December 28, 1863, "Sir: I have the gratification of reporting a very im- portant service performed by the blockading force in St. Andrews sound, under the command of Acting Master William R. Browne, in destroying a very extensive and valuable quantity of salt-works both at Lake Ocala and St. Andrew's bay. The circumstances are as follows: "On December 2, a boat was dispatched from the bark Restless, then lying at St. Andrew's sound, to Lake Ocala, some twenty miles to the westward, where Acting Ensign J. J, Russel landed with his men and marched some five miles inland to Kent's salt-works consisting of three differ- ent establishments, and utterly destroyed them. There were six steamboat boilers at this place, cut in half length- 86 St. Andrews, Florida wise, and seven kettles, made expressly for this purpose, each holding three hundred gallons. They were in the practice of turning out one hundred and thirty bushels of salt daily. Besides destroying these boilers, a large quan- tity of salt was thrown into the lake. Two large flat-boats and six ox-carts were demolished, and seventeen prisoners were taken, who were paroled and released, as the boat was too small to bring them away. "On the 10th of December, Acting Ensign Edward Cressy arrived at St. Andrew's sound from the east pass of Santa Rosa's sound, with the stern-wheel steamer Bloom- er and her tender, the sloop Caroline, having heard of the expedition to Lake Ocala, and placed his command at the disposal fo Acting Master Browne, for more extensive op- erations near St. Andrews. Accordingly three officers and forty-eight men were sent from the Restless to the Bloomer, and she proceeded to West bay where the rebel govern- ment's salt-works were first destroyed which produced 400 bushels daily. At this place there were twenty-seven buildings, twenty-two large boilers, and some 200 kettles, averaging 200 gallons each, all of which were destroyed, together with 2,000 bushels of salt, and some store houses containing three months' provisions. "The whole was estimated at half a million dollars. From this point the expedition proceeded down the bay, destroying private salt-works, which lined each side for n distance of seven miles, to the number of one hundred and ninety-eight different establishments, averaging two boil- ers ad two kettles each, together with large quantities of salt. Five hundred and seven kettles were dug up and ren- dered useless, and over three hundred buildings were de- stroyed, together with twenty-seven wagons and five large flat-boats. The entire damage to the enemy is estimated by Acting Master Browne at $3,000,000. Thirty-one con- trabands, employed at these works, gladly availed them- selves of this opportunity to escape, and were of great ser- vice in pointing out the places where the kettles were buried for concealment. "In the meantime, while the operations were going on. Acting Master Browne got under way in the bark Restless, and ran up to within one hundred yards of the town of St. Andrew's, which had been reported to him by deserters as being occupied only by a military force, for the last ten months, and commenced shelling the place, and some sol- diery, who made a speedy retreat to the woods. "Selecting the weather-most house for a target, the town was fired by the third shell, and thirty-two houses were soon reduced to ashes. No resistance was offered to our people throughout the affair. St. Andrews, Florida 87 "Acting Master Browne speaks in highest terms of Acting Ensign James J. Russel and Charles N. Hicks and the forty-eight men from the Restless, as also Acting En- sign Cressy and the six men belonging to the Bloomer for the prompt manner in which they carried out their orders. "Respectfully, "THEODORUS BAILEY, "Acting Rear Admiral, "Commanding Eastern Squadron." "United States Flag Ship San Jacinto, "Key West, January 27, 1864. "Sir : It affords me pleasure to report to the depart- ment that the promise made by Acting Master William R. Browne, commanding bark Restless, at the conclusion of his last report concerning the destruction of extensive salt- works in the vicinity of St. Andrew's bay — namely, that he would complete the work so handsomely begun — ap- pears to have been kept. He reports that he went on board the stern-wheel steamer Bloomer with two officers and forty-seven men belonging to the Restless, and pro- ceeded up the bay against very unfavorable circumstances, of darkness, wind and tide, some ten miles above St. An- drews where his force was landed, and destroyed some ninety additional salt-works, together with all the boilers, kettles and buildings attached to them; whereupon the enemy commenced the destruction of some 200 more which were in advance, of our party, and this saved us from all further trouble except skirting along the bay for the distance of 15 miles to make sure that the work of de- struction had been well performed by them. Deserters from Captain Anderson's and Robinson's companies reported subsequently that both officers and men had broken up and gone home, as the destruction of the salt- works, which they were ordered to guard, had been so complete ; and six of them have enlisted in the Navy, after taking the oath of allegiance. Acting Master Browne again speaks in terms of com- mendation of the officers and men engaged in this service including Ensign Cressy, and the five men composing the crew of the steamer Bloomer. Respecetfully, THEODORUS BAILEY. Acting Rear-Admiral Com'dg. E. G. B. Squadron. HON. GIDEON WELLS, Secretary of the Navy." 88 St. Andrews, Florida Either on December 10th or 11th, 1863, Acting Master Browne in command of the U. S. bark Restless, who, with the stern-wheel steamer Bloomer, were raiding and destroying the salt works on St. Andrews Bay, took up a position in front of the Clark house at Old Town, about three hundred feet from the shore, and in a very brief time had set many houses on fire, through firing redhot balls, and shelling, and soon every build- ing in the place was destroyed. The only surviving witness of this destruction of St. Andrews that we have found, is "Hawk" Narcisso Masselena, who was about 21 years of age at the time, and who, with his father, who cared for many of the houses in Old Town which belonged to summer residents, went there as soon as the fire started, to see if they could save any of the con- tents of the houses, but he reports that the firing was too "hot" for them, and they went back in the woods. Acting Master Browne reports the destruction of 32 houses. and the driving away of a company of cavalry. There was no company of cavalry here at that time, so this part of the report must be taken as the result of a too vivid imagination, coupled with a desire to make a good report. The map made by the Coast and Geodetic Survey party, in 1855, shows thirty two buildings in the so named City of St. Andrews, but many of these were but servants quarters and buildings of that character. Statements of those who were ac- quainted with the place in 1863 are to the effect that no change in buildings had been made for some years, and that probably the map of 1855 shows all there was in 1863, eight years later. Beginning on the east, the first buildings mapped were two close to the beach, one within an enclosure and the other on the margin of it, standing on the top of the hill coming up from Caroline bayou, and about 650 feet from the west side of the bayou entrance. About one hundred feet west from this en- closure, and between it and the next, stood three buildings, one back of the others. Then came an enclosure west, about 100 by 200 feet in size, in which there was one large and two smaller buildings, one in front of the other. All the smaller en- closures were about of this size. The next enclosure to the westward shows a large and a small building therein, with a dock leading out from the beach in front, into about six feet of water. The adjoining enclosure St. Andrews, Florida 89 on the west shows two buildings therein, while the next one which was subdivided across the north end, shows five buildings on it. West of this enclosure and running northeasterly was the highway leading out of the city, and which was the one used by the summer visitors, and all others visiting this place between its settlement and about 1885. It crossed the stream leading into the bayou at a point that was long known as the "burn't bridge," the bridge undoubtedly having been burned in some of the Federal raids in this section. It is stated that where this road came to the beach was lo- cated the store, and here it was that the first building was set on fire by the hot shot from the Restless' guns. Back from the beach, about 500 feet, on the west side of this road, was a small enclosure in which was one building, while about four hundred feet farther northeast, on the same side of the road, was a large enclosure, the "White House" place, in which was a large house, and three smaller ones along the northeast side of the lot. On the beach adjoining the road on the west, was an enclosure in which were two buildings. West of this were two enclosures which do not show any buildings therein. These arj- where the graves of the Clark family are, and were probably reserved for burial purposes. Next west was the large lot on which the Clark house stood. The drawing showing this house is rather indistinct, but looks as though there was a small building near the large one, on the west side. In front of this place, about 800 feet from shore, is drawn an anchor, denoting a suitable location for an- chorage. It is in 20 feet of water, that depth coming quite close to the shore at that time. Some little distance to the west of this lot are two enclosures together, in each of which there were two buildings. In the northeast portion of what is laid out as St. Andrews City, the ground was cleared, and possibly cultivated. The largest clearing shown on this map, in what is now St. Andrews, was a tract on the beach about half way be- tween the bayou and the Panama City west limits, which was about four hundred feet in width, and a quarter of a mile in length, along the beach. On this tract is shown two houses, one on the eastern side in an enclosure, the other in the clearing. This was the City of St. Andrews from about 1838 until it was destroyed in 1863. Then, as now, it was a well known 90 St. Andrews, Florida resort, but at that date only so in the summer time, whereas since 1885 it has been as much a winter, as a summer resort. But always it has been the location of important fisheries, which though in an early day were limited to the bay, and con- tigous gulf beaches, have now extended to deep sea fishing, hundreds of miles from this port. The following official report tells of the next important raid of a party from the blockading fleet on the salt works on East Bay. "Additional report of Acting Master W. R. Browne, United States Bark, Restless: St. Andrew's Bay Florida, Feb. 19, 1864. Sir: I have the honor of making the following report; having gained information that a large barge would leave the Wetappo river on or about the 18th instant for East bay, with all the material on board necessary for erecting a large salt-work, and on her return intending to bring back a cargo of salt (her capacity 1,500 bushels) I fitted out the second cutter with eleven men, under charge of Acting Ensign Henry Eason, and gig with seven men under charge of Master's Mate F. Grant, to effect her capture on her passage down, and with orders, if after waiting five days and not seeing the barge, to land and destroy all the salt- works in the vicinity. According to my instructions the boats left the ship at 8 P. M., the 17th instant, and proceeded to a bayou on the southwest side of East bay, selected as a place of am- bush, and which the barge must necessarily pass. After lying in wait the appointed time and seeing no appearance of the barge, the men were landed, and destroyed all the works at hand, fifteen in number, among which were some of the largest government salt-works ever erected in Florida, the whole of which were successfully destroyed, consisting of five large steam boat boilers, and twenty- three kettles, together with sixteen log houses, one flat- boat, a large quantity of salt, vats, tanks, and other ma- terials connected with the manufacture of this article. After destroying the above they returned to the ship bring- ing with them six contrabands found at this place. Very respectfully your obedient servant. W. A. BROWNE, Acting Master Commanding. Acting Rear-Admiral Theodorus Bailey, Commanding E. G. B. Squadron." St. Andrews, Florida 91 The next raid was made April, 1864, report of which was made Secretary of War, Gideon Wells, by Rear Admiral Uailey, as follows: "Expedition to harass the enemy. Report of Acting Rear Admiral T. Bailey, United States Flag-Ship San Jacinto. Key West, April 21, 1864. Sir: Acting Volunteer Lieutenant William R. Browne commanding the bark Restless, at St. Andrews Sound re- ports the result of two more expeditions made under his orders to harass the enemy in that vicinity. The first consisted of eight refugees in a dug-out canoe, who ascended the Wetapoo river, some twenty miles to White Bluffs, and there destroyed about two thousand bushels of salt, brought away the sacks, and captured a barge about thirty-six feet long, eleven feet beam, and three feet deep, sloop rigged and decked, which he is fitting up with a howitzer for further operations. A heavy rain had fortunately driven the cavalry guard away from the place of shelter, so that no resistance was offered. Twenty-three refugees were brought off. The other expedition consisted of twenty-two men in the boats of the Restless, who proceeded up East bay during another heavy rain storm, which had again sent the guard to look for shelter. They succeeded in destroy- ing two government salt-works with three hundred bushels of salt and about the same quantity of cornmeal, without opposition and brought off one contraband. Acting Volun- teer Lieutenant Browne reports that there are five com- panies of rebel troops in that vicinity to guard the salt- works, and that these works are rebuilt as fast as he de- stroys them. Respectfully, THEODORUS BAILEY, Acting Rear-Admiral Commanding E. G. B. Squadron. Hon. Gideon Wells, Secretary of the Navy. The next raiding expedition to land here was that of Major Weeks in command of white and colored troops from Cedar Keys, who landed here and proceeded to raid the interior 92 St. Andrews, Florida country. This affair is reported by Capt. Henry W. Bowers, Assistant Adjutant General, from Key West, describing various raids made in July. The report relative to landing at St. An- drews is as follows: "About the 20th ultimo, an expedition, composed of 400 troops from the Second Florida Cavalry and Second U. S. Colored Troops, under the command of Major Weeks, Second Florida Cavalry, made a descent from Cedar Keys, Florida, upon Saint Andrew's Bay. On landing, 100 bales of cotton were captured near the coast and burnt. The ex- pedition marched 44 miles into the interior, burnt 80 bales of cotton, 2 large bridges, 1 large grist-mill, 1 camp with store-houses, etc. complete, capable of containing 500 men. On the return to the coast the expedition brought in 115 contrabands, 8 mules, and 2 horses. The troops returned after an absence of nine days without the loss of a man." There appears to have been a change in vessels in the blockading fleet here between the raid on the salt works in April, and the last reported, which were made on the last of November, and forepart of December, 1864, and are described in the following reports: "Report of Acting Master J. C. Wells, United States Bark Midnight. St. Andrew's Bay, Fla., Dec. 4. 1864 Sir: I have the honor to report the following, since relieving the United States Bark Restless on this station : "I have had reason to believe, by what I could glean from refugees, that there was considerable salt making on the bays above here. Consequently, on the 30th of Nov., last, I despatched an expedition with twenty-four men, in command of Acting Master Charles H. Cadieu, accom- panied by Acting Ensign E. O. Drew and Acting Assistant Surgeon Edward W. Avery, up the bay to destroy salt- works and salt, which they did effectually. They captured and brought away with them, the sixteen salt-makers, whom I have since paroled. Three contrabands, who are here, one has enlisted, and the others object to enlist, on the ground, that they have left their families in secessia. St. Andrews, Florida 93 The expedition also captured two confederate cavalry pickets, with their horses. The prisoners of war I shall send to Key West for your disposal by the earliest oppor- tunity. The expedition captured the following fire-arms: Two flint-lock muskets; one flint-lock riflle ; one breech- loading carbine; also one double-barrel fowling piece. Very respectfully your obedient servant, J. C. WELLS, Acting Master U. S. N. commanding U. S. bark Midnight. Acting-Rear Admiral C. K. Stribling, Commanding E. G. B. Squadron, Key West, Fla." "Destruction of Salt-works in St. Andrew's Bay. Headquarters Eastern Gulf Blockading Squadron. Key West, Florida, Feb. 13, 1865. Sir: Referring to your letter of the 3rd instant, I enclose herewith a copy of the report of the commanding officer of the Midnight, of an expedition against rebel salt-works, which is all the information I have of the cap- ture of the horses and mules referred to. I have the honor to be, very respectfully your obedient servant, C. K. STRIBLING. Acting Rear-Admiral Commanding E. G. B. Squadron. Hon. Gideon Welles, Sec'ty. of the Navy." The end of the war found but few people in this section. The Town had been destroyed, and no attempt made to rebuild. Constant raids on the salt makers had greatly reduced these forces, still this work continued even after the war ended, for until lines of transportation had been rehabilitated in the lower south, and trading resumed with other portions of the country, the salt works on this bay continued to furnish supplies of salt. However this business gradually closed out, and there remained but the furnaces, a few with their kettles intact, others with the half of buoys, or boilers from saw mills, which years after were gathered up by the settlers, some of which can yet be found in various parts of the bay country. Walter R. Gainer has told the writer of working a crew making salt on the flat on the north shore of West Bay, in 1865, which he stated was sold to Jackson county planters. 94 St. Andrews, Florida There were no residents of St. Andrews, therefore when the war ended with Johnson's surrender, the news of which was quite a little time in reaching this section of Florida, there was neither rejoicing or sorrow. The few people who had come to this portion of the state were according to Governor Milton's account, deserters from both armies, runaway slaves, and criminals who had fled here to escape justice. With the departure of the vessels of the blockading fleet the settlement on Hurricane Island was abandoned, and was soon but a memory of the war. The principal owners of the destroyed homes at what is now known as Old Town, resided in and about Marianna. War had destroyed much of their property at home as well as here, and it was many years before their attention was again turned toward their summer mecca here on St. Andrews Bay. Re- construction, which was as hard on these people as was the war, occupied their attention the next few years, and it was only the venturesome young men who visited the play ground of their boyhood days. West Florida had been placed by an order of the Federal Army, June 7th. 1865, with the rest of the state in the department of Florida with headquarters at Tallahassee but the Union forces that were detailed to keep up posts in almost all the towns and cities in the state, found no occasion to visit this region, which General Howell Cobb had depicted as "desert country," with no inhabitants, therefore this place which had been noted on the government charts but a few years before as the "City of St. Andrews," received no attention throughout reconstruction days. A few fishermen sought the shores of the bay, but there was no trade in fish at that time, therefore no development in the way of business, or building. The principal resident fishermen of that date were James Witherspoon, Peter Parker and Joe Masselena. The fish were salted, and sold to the few planters from the inland, who came here with teams after them. Marianna people had been the principal promoters of St. Andrews, from 1836 until 1863, owning about all the lots comprising the "City of St. Andrews" of before the war, and were therefore the first to consider further building there, and to start the same. St. Andrews, Florida 95 A number of business men held a meeting at Marianna in February, 1867, at which the project of building a railway from Quincy to the Apalachicola River, and another north from St. Andrews Bay, in to Georgia, were discussed. These roads were planned to move the cotton from the interior to where it could be handled by water. This was undoubtedly the first planning of railway building to St. Andrews. The first building erected here after the war was put up by J. S. Baker, on the lot in Old Town, where the Baker home of the early day stood, which was burned in the destruc- . tion of St. Andrews in 1863. This house had been used as the custom house at Parker before the war, from there removed to Bunkers Cove, thence moved by Mr. Baker to Old Town. This was in 1867. The erection of this building was followed by others, which were put up by former residents of the old town, or their descendants, who resumed their summer out- ings here on the bay. But this section was slow recovering from the havoc of war, and the calamities of reconstruction days and military government. There were not enough people here to keep up the privileges attendant upon civil government, and there was but little call for either officers or offices. The census of . 1860 showed but 2154 inhabitants in Washington county, and 2302 in 1870, a gain of but 148 in the ten year period. The population at that time was principally in the northern part of the county, there being but few people in this section of the county. Soon after this section of St. Andrews Bay was surveyed, a large amount of the land bordering the shores of the bay was reserved by a presidential order, dated November 13th, 1834. on account of the live oak thereon, which was then greatly in demand for ship building purposes. Some of this oak was cut and taken to the navy yard at Warrenton, where it was stored. This reservation included all of Section 5, Town- ship 4. Rsnge 14, except the west half of the south west % and easterly to the east side of Section 24, east of Long Point. This land v/as released on March 21st, 1878. On the 23rd of March, 1849, the Secretary of War directed the reservation at St. Andrews Bay, for military purposes, of "that tongue or neck of the main land west of the several en- 96 St. Andrews, Florida trances (called Coe Point) for a distance of two miles along the coast, also the tongue or neck of the main land (called Crooked Island) east of the several entrances, for a distance of t'vo miles along the coast; also the islands intermediate be- tween the points of the main land, called St. Andrews Island etc." The Coe Point reservation was relinquished on May 18th, 1878, by the Secretary of War. The Presidents order of May 3rd, 1897, reserves lands in Township 5 South, Range 14 West, including Hurricane Island, for military and naval defense, and so far as can be ascertained there has been no change in this latter reservation. The land on which the "City of St. Andrews" was after- ward located was in the southwest part of Section 6, a frac- tional lot in Township 4 south, Range 14 west. The south-west 14 of Section 6, Lot 5, was patented on November 5th, 1847, to Wm. M. Loftin, Peter Gautier Sr., Wiley P. Clark, and John W. Clark, and John W. Campbell, heirs of John Clark deceased, as the patent reads. The date of entry is not known here, but it was probably made by ex-governor John Clark, and the pur- chase completed by his heirs, and Loftin and Gautier, after his death. It included the land on which John Clark had erected his house in 1827. It is probable that these parties intended to promote this location and plat a town here. The south-east l^ of Section 6, or Lot 6, was patented to Jacob Robinson, September 1st, 1846. The North half of this section was entered by James Watson, probably in 1837, but the patent was not issued until September 29th, 1888. Watson bought nearly all the land on the north shore of the bay that had a good stan^ of pine on it, from Dyers point to Long point, which he used in supplyig logs to his mill on Watson's bayou, the latter bayou taking its name from him. The records show that the North half of Section 1, Township 4 south, Range 15 west, was patented to him April 20th, 1837; Lot 6, Section 35. Township 3 south. Range 15 west; Lot 2, Section 34, same town- ship and range; Lot 5, Section 35, same township and range; and the Southwest 14. of Section 6, Township 3 South, Range 15 west; were also patented to him on April 20th, 1837, as was much of the other land that he had bought on the north shore of the bay. St. Andrews, Florida 97 That portion of St. Andrews taking in Buena Vista Point, was entered by Richard H. Long, and patented to him as Lot 4, fractional section 1, Township 4 south. Range 15 west, on Sept. 1st, 1846. This tract was sold for taxes and a tax deed was issued to Thomas Hannah for the same, dated October 7th, 1875. In 1880 he sold this property to L. M. Ware and A. Ludwig. the latter coming here with Captain Ware on his 20 foot sloop that the latter started in from his Maryland home, in 1878, to go to St. Andrews Bay, a place he had visited while engaged on the Coast Survey boat Gedney. En route he spent one winter at St. Augustine, then came here. He bought out Ludwig's interest in the land and platted that portion of our present city now known as Ware's Point. Owing to the Civil War and destruction of the City of St. Andrews, but little attention was paid to taxation, and it was some time before county governments began to function, and assess and collect taxes. When this did start there were but few who gave attention to the taxes levied on the St. Andrews city property, and it was sold for taxes with adjacent lands, on April 7th, 1873, to James L. Baker, for the taxes assessed in 1872, and a deed for this property was issued to him June 2nd, 1875. Having at this date, April, 1921, received an official record of the Custom House at St. Andrews, from the Treasury Department, which we had for a year been trying to secure, we are now enabled to give a very complete account of the same, and this information, together with photographic copies of patents issued for the first purchase of land in St. Andrews, now possessed by Mr. J. H. Drummond, materially aid us in securing a fuller understanding of the first development in what is now St. Andrews. Under date of April 2nd, 1921, the Assistant Secretary of the Treasury in charge of Public Buildings, Hon James H. Moyle, furnished the following facts relative to the establish- ment of a customs officer here. "The district of Pensacola was established on May 7th, 1822, with a collector and surveyor." This was in accordance with the Act of Congress of May 7th, 1822, to provide for the collection of duties on imports and ton- nage in Florida, and for other purposes, being the fourth 98 St. Andrews, Florida Act passed by congress relative to Florida.) "The sur- veyor's office was abolished in 1824. "St. Andrews Bay, Florida, first appears in the list of customs districts in 1828, being placed in the district of Pensacola with a surveyor stationed at said port. William M. Loftin was the first incumbent of record, his appoint- ment dating from 1828. He was followed by T. F. Loftin, F. G. H. Long, William C. Bryan and James Witherspoon, the last named serving up to the Civil War." All the above were residents of this section, Loftin residing on North Bay when he first came here, and in what is now St. Andrews, from 1830, or possibly a year earlier, in the next house east of Governor Clark's, which he built. The others are men who came here from Jackson county, who took part in the promotion of St. Andrews, which was located in the southwest quarter of section six. After the war Pensacola appears to have furnished the officers for this port, and they probably only visited it as necessity demanded, residing in Pensacola. Of this period the report says: "In 1866 the collector at Pensacola recommended E. C. Parkhurst for the position at St. Andrews Bay. He was followed by Hinton J. Wilson, A. B. Luse, J. W. Smith, Calvin G. Willard, T. Warren, Silas Flournay, B. F. Elliott, Joseph E. Sierra, David Crockett, Thomas Hannah and Thomas E. Watson, the last named incumbent served until the office was abolished by Department letter dated February 13th, 1880." As there were eleven incumbents in the fourteen years named, it is probable that an appointment was made by the collector at Pensacola almost yearly, and of Pensacola citizens, many of the above being thus remembered. Besides the above, and probably between 1880 and 1888, other officers were here from Pensacola looking after custom house matters, among which were Harry Campbell and a man named Peter- son, the customs house being located on the south shore of the peninsula about opposite Land's End. The office was re-established in February, 1888, says the assistant treasurer, Walter R. Gainer being the first appointee to that place as deputy collector and inspector. Mr. Gainer told the writer that he talked with Senator Pasco about the development of St. Andrews Bay, which at that time was being promoted by the so called "Cincinnati Company," and St. Andrews, Florida 99 the senator agreed with him that it was an opportune time to begin the work, and through the action of the senator, Mr. Gainer was appointed to the position of collector and inspector. He went to Pensacola and was sworn in. The records show that the office was abolished by Department letter dated March 25th, 1890. From that time until 1909 the affairs of this port were attended to, as had been done before, by the collector at Pensacola, or an appointee of his. The letter of the assistant treasurer sets forth the further history of the office as follows: "On July 10th, 1909, the collector of customs for the former district of Pensacola recommended to the Depart- ment the re-establishment of St. Andrews as a sub-port of entry. This recommendation the Department declined to approve under date of July 16th, 1909, but authorized the appointment of an inspector at St. Andrews for the purpose of enforcing the provisions of the Steamboat Inspection and Navigation Laws to serve during the excursion season. On August 2nd Morton Rynearson was appointed as in- spector. Class E, with compensation at the rate of $3 per diem for duty at St. Andrews 'to serve for such period during the present excursion season as may be necessary.' " The placing of an inspector here at that time was caused by the many launches employed here then in handling the numerous excursions that the railway was bringing here, and the necessity of having the laws governing such boats more rigidly enforced. The assistant treasurer further says: "Under date of March 16th, 1910, the collector for the former district of Pensacola recommended that the position of inspector of customs at St. Andrews be made permanent from April 1st to October 31st of each year, which recommendation was approved by the Department under date of March 24th, 1910, and on April 5th Morton Rynearson was appointed to this position. On September 20th, 1910, the said collector recommended the re- establishment of St. Andrews as a sub-port of entry, and on September 24th, 1910, the Department stated that the matter would be given consideration at a later date. "On March 3rd, 1911, Congress passed an act creat- ing a sub-port of entry at St. Andrews in the district of Pensacola, and under date of July 11th, 1911, Morton Ry- nearson was again appointed deputy collector and in- spector with authority to enter and clear vessels. Mr. Rynearson resigned from the public service on April 15th, 1914, and David Tyre was transferred from Jacksonville 100 St. Andrews, Florida to St. Andrews. On March 13th, 1918. Mr. Tyre was transferred to Miami, and John Klein was appointed as deputy collector in charge at St. Andrews, at which point he has been stationed ever since, "Exact information as to the location of the first cus- tom office or the establishment of St. Andrews as a port of entry cannot be given, as most of the records of the Treas- ury Department prior to 1833 were destroyed by fire, and but very little information can be obtained before the year 1828." As Governor Clark, the first settler here, did not come until 1827; Wm. M. Loftin coming a year after; and the survey of this section not having been made by Clements, Exum and Clements until the latter part of 1831 and the forepart of 1832, there could not have been much in the way of business to call for a custom house officer here when the office was first created in 1828, but this activity of Clark and Loftin in starting something here, and getting government recognition, m^rks the beginning of the first promotion of St. Andrews. The securing of a charter in 1832 for the construction of a canal from St. Andrews Bay to the Chipola River, possibly what is now known as Dead Lakes, then called Hort's Lake; and the entry of the southwest quarter of section six probably by John Clark, are also indications of an effort on the part of these first settlers to start a town at this point. Just what there was in the way of commerce in or out of St. Andrews Bay that impelled the formation of a customs dis- trict here as early as 1828, is a problematical question the solving of which would be very interesting as throwing more light upon the early history of this section. The first exploitation of this section that was ever m-^de was that of the St. Andrews Bay Railroad and Land Compnny the so-called Cincinnati Company, which was carried on through the years 1885-86, 1887-88. A m!ap made in 1887 by Robert O'Neil. draftsman of the company, shows the lands belonging to this company included nearly all of Township 3 South, Range 14 West, also the larger portion of the north tier of sections in Township 4 South, Range 14 West. It w ;s commonly stated that the plat of this company covered about seven square miles. The advertising of this company was most attractive, as were the terms offered, and it is stated that some 350.000 St. Andrews, Florida 101 people in the United States took advantage of these terms, and invested the trifle they were required to. to purchase one or two lots. The latter were very small, 28 by 82, outside of the lots near the bay, and though one was given away, the only requiren^ents being that a dollar be sent to pay for the record- ing of the deed, an adjoining lot could be bought for $2, and many of the interested ones took the additional lot. The lots in this city were, of course, sold for much more than this, but the great profit was in these small lots outside, which it is said netted the company several hundred thousand dollars. To aid in the advertising, a book was written and pub- lished, entitled "Strange Fancies," which the prospectus de- scribes as follows: "It (the book) possesses special interest to a large number of people, from the fact that St. Andrews Bay is the scene of many of its most interesting chapters, and the story is associated with that place in the days 'before the war;' tells of the bontbardment of the town during the war — in fact, the key to the plot is found in the bombard- ment — and its close takes leave of the principal characters at that beautiful new city. The description of St. Andrews Bay contained in the book will afford a very intelligent idea of the place, the author having visited St. Andrews Bay frequently, and made a careful study of its surroundings, while familiarizing himself with the data necessary to render his book descriptively accurate." It will not be amiss to say that the book was a poor literary production, if it could be called literary, and was only purchased by those who were eager to get all the information they could relative to "Beautiful St. Andrews Bay." This advertising brought a l?rge number of northern people to this section, who. finding that their lots were of but liHle or no value, and the nror^osed railway having collapsed quite a number took up homesteads about the bay, which accounts for so many northern people having thus located in this section. A newspaper "The Messenger" was started, followed by the "Buoy," and it is. said that at that time there were nearly 2,500 inhabitants in this city. The lands were all that had been described in the company's literature, but the platting in such small tracts had the result of keeping down the development of farms, so those who could not find a home- stead to their liking returned to their northern homes. 102 St. Andrews, Florida Descriptions of the lots was finally ignored and they were assessed as quarter and half sections, and thus sold out by the state. This takes this history up to the "boom" of 1885-88. The later history of St. Andrews is that intermingled with that of other portions of the bay, and the starting of many other towns, that it would require an account of a larger territory than this work was intended to include to cover the past forty years' growth of the St. Andrews Bay country. This may be given in some future work by the author who has the data on the subject. St. Andrews, Florida 103 Appendix THE BLOCKADE OF ST. ANDREWS BAY By G. M. West. Although President Lincoln issued his Blockade Proclama- tion of the ports of South Carolina, Georgia, Alabama, Florida, Mississippi, Louisiana, and Texas, on April 19th, 1861, it was not until late in the winter following, 61-62, that a concerted effort was made to blockade the Gulf ports. By order of the Secretary of the Navy Gideon Welles, January 20th, 1862, Flag Officer D. G. Farragut was sent to the Gulf, and in this order the Gulf Blockading Squadron was divided into two squadrons; the Eastern and Western Gulf Blockading Squadrons, with Flag Officer Farragut in charge of the Western, and Flag Officer Wm. W. McKean, then in charge of the Gulf Squadron, headquarters at Key West, to be in charge of the Eastern Squadron. Farragut's headquarters were at Ship Island, he arriving there to take command on February 20th, 1862. On this same day appears in the records the first order is used relative to St. Andrews Bay operations, which reads as follows: "Order of Flag-Officer McKean. U. S. Navy, to Lieutenant Winslow, U. S. Navy, commanding U. S. S. R. R. Cuyler, to proceed to St. Andrews and St. Joseph's bays for the capture of vessels. "U. S. Flagship Niagara, "Ship Island, February 20, 1862. "Sir: You will proceed in the U. S. Cuyler under your command without delay, to St. Andrew's Bay and capture a schooner which I am informed is loading with cotton at that place. From thence you will proceed to St. Joseph's Bay and capture two vessels which I am in- formed are loading there. From thence you will proceed to Key West, and immediately upon your arrival will pro- ceed to make the necessary repairs to the machinery of your vessel, and will endeavor to have her in a condition for service by the time I reach that place, which I expect will be in a few days. 104 St. Andrews, Florida "I am, respectfully, your obedient servant, "Wm. W. McKean, "Flag-Officer, Commanding Gulf Blockading Squadron. "Lieutenant Commanding Francis Winslow, "Commanding U. S. S. Cuyler, Ship Island." Previous to this date this port had furnished a most valu- able means for running in supplies for the confederacy. One method was described by Lieut. G. W. Doty, commanding the steamer Marion, stationed off West Pass, Apalachicola, in a memorandum dispatch under date of February 5th, 1862. He stated that "vessels go into St. Andrews and land their cargoes at Bear Creek, and cart them across to Ochesee, on the Chattahoochee river, and then it comes down to Apalachi- cola by water." He further stated "that the schooner Wm. P. Benson was then at St. Andrews; about two weeks before she brought a cargo of coffee there from Havana and was known to be there then taking on a cargo of cotton." He stated "she may not get out for a month, but they are loading her now. About 150 bales of cotton was sent to her last week from Apalachicola. She carries English colors when at sea. Capt. Thomas L. Mitchell is now loading the Benson; he loaded the Phoenix also. He is a northern man and married there. It is about five days' travel from Ochesee to Bear Creek by carts." All manner of supplies such as had before the war been purchased in the North, or England, were brought in on these runners, one capture showing up a consignment of hoop-skirts, then a most fashionable appendage in a lady's outfit. On March 12th, 1862, the bark Pursuit was reported blockading St. Andrews and St. Joseph's Bay. March 11th Flag Officer McKean reports to the Secre- tary of War that he had dispatched the steamer Cuyler to examine St. Andrews and St. Joseph's Bay, and a thorough examination of both harbors was made by Lieutenant Com- manding Winslow, but no vessels were discovered in either. Under this same date Flag Officer McKean reports as follows : "When off Mobile I dispatched the Water Witch, with instructions to her commander to run down the coast from St. Andrews and join me off Apalachicola, and I am happy to inform you that near St. Andrews Bay he fell in with and captured the schooner William Mallory, of St. Andrews, Florida 105 Mobile, from Havana, with an assorted cargo bound to a Confederate port. Shortly afterwards, meeting with a severe gale, she parted company with her prize and for some hours was in great danger of being lost, but fortu- nately succeeded in reaching this place, where I found her on my arrival. The prize schooner has not yet arrived. "Lieutenant Hughes, of the Water Witch, reported that on the morning of March 5th, 1862, while cruising off St. Andrews Bay he gave chase to a schooner, which he succeeded in capturing after a pursuit of five hours. She proved to be the William Mallory, of Mobile, from Havana, February 28th, with an assorted cargo bound wherever she could make port, and probably would have come into St. Andrews Bay had she not been discovered by the steamer Water Witch." April 14th, 1862, the bark Pursuit was in St. Andrews Bay, coming from St. Joseph's Bay, on which trip the steamer Flor- ida and sloop LaFayette were captured. An account of these captures has been published in this paper. The regular report made to the Secretary of Navy shows that on April 14th, the schooner Beauregard was blockading St. Andrews Bay. This is the first reported stationing of a boat to blockade this port. On May 14th the schooner gunboat Samuel Rotan was ordered to St. Andrews Bay. This boat had been at Key West for repairs. Report of May 26th, the same. On June 4th, 1862, the Samuel Rotan was still stationed at St. Andrews Bay, blockading the same. On June 25th, 1862, this schooner was in command of volunteer Lieutenant W. W. Kenniston, ad was stationed at St. Andrews Bay. July, 12th, 1862, this boat was reported stationed at St. Andrews Bay with the same officer in command. On July 30th, same report. On August 5th, 1862, the steamer Sagamore was reported blockading St. Andrews Bay with Lieutenant G. A. Bigelow in command. September 1st, the Sagamore, with the same commander, was blockading St. Andrews Bay, also in report of September 15th and October 2nd. One of the heretofore unpublished reports of operations 106 St. Andrews, Florida here in the bay, is shown in the following item taken from the log of the Sagamore, while here, at the above dates: Abstract log U. S. S. Sagamore, Lieutenant-Commander Bigelow, U. S. Navy, commanding, "September 11, 1862. — At 10 a. m. sent launch and second cutter on shore armed, the first in charge of Acting Master Babson and Master's Mate Sidell, the second in charge of Acting Master Fales and Assistant Engineer Leavitt. Boats landed and employed in destroying salt works. At 11 stood underway and stood in nearer the town. At 5 :45 p. m. boats still employed destroying salt works. "September 12. — At 7:30 a. m. second cutter in charge of Acting Master Fales, 15 men, launch in charge of Acting Master Babson, 17 men, left the ship to destroy salt works." From a report from Rear Admiral Lardner, commanding the East Gulf Squadron, the following additional work of the Sagamore at that time is described : Report of Acting Rear Admiral Lardner, U. S. Navy, regarding the destruction of salt works at St. Andrews and St. Joseph's bays. (No. 122) "Flagship St. Lawrence. "Key West, October 2, 1862. "Sir: I have the honor to report that salt works of the rebels at St. Andrew's Bay, capable of making 216 bushels of salt per day, were destroyed by Lieutenant- Commander Bigelow, of the Sagamore, on the 11th of September last. "The salt works at St. Joseph's Bay, estimated of ca- pacity to make 200 bushels of salt a day, were destroyed by Lieutenant Commanding Couthony, of the Kingfisher, on the 8th of September. "Very respectfully, your obedient servant, "J. L. LARDNER, "Acting Rear-Admiral, Comdg. Eastern Gulf Squadron. "Hon. Gideon Welles, "Secretary of the Navy, Washington, D. C." On October 15th, the bark Wanderer, Acting Master E. S. Turner in command, and the schooner Samuel Rotan. Acting Vol. Lieutenant commanding W. W. Kenniston, were blockading St. Andrews Bay. The Wanderer was reported, November 1st, as blockading St. Andrews, Florida 107 St. Andrews Bay, also on November 15th and November 30th. December 15th, the steamer Stars and Stripes, Acting Master commanding C. L. Willcomb, was blockading St. An- drews Bay, also on same station January 1st, 1863, and Janu- ary 15th. February 1st, 1863, the bark Roebuck, Acting Master J. Sherrill, was on St. Andrews Bay station, also in same place on February 15th, March 1st, March 16th, April 1st, April 15th, May 1st, May 15th, June 1st, July 15th, August 1st, August 15th, September 15th, same, but Acting Master J. O. Barclay was in command. October 1st, same. No vessels appear on the St. Andrews Bay blockading station in report of October 15th, 1862. In the report of November 1st, 1863, the bark Restless, Acting Master W. R. Browne, was reported stationed at St. Andrews Sound, also in report of November 15th, December 1st, December 15th, January 1st, 1864, January I5th, Febru- ary 1st, February 15th, March 1st, March 15th, April 1st, April 15th. May 1st, May 15th, June 1st, June 15th, July 1st, July 15th. August 1st, August 15th, with Acting Volunteer Lieutenant W. P. Randall in charge, September 1st, September 15th, October 1st, October 15th, November 1st, November 15th. In this report it is stated that the Restless had been ordered to Key West. This bark carried seven guns. There was much work done by Acting Master Browne, commanding the Restless, while on this station, among which an instance of trying to get a cotton cargo out of here without running the blockade, is described in the following reports of Acting Master Browne, and letter from Acting Rear Admiral Bailey: Report of Acting Master Browne, U. S. Navy, commanding U. S. bark Restless, regarding proposition made by Union men of Marianna. Fla. "U. S. Bark Restless, "St. Andrew's Bay, Fla., January 19, 1864. "Sir: I have the honor to make the following report: "On the afternoon of the 16th, instant, a person appeared on the mainland at this place with a flag of truce. He was a mile or more distant, and was supposed to be a refugee or contraband, many of whom have lately 108 St. Andrews, Florida come off to this ship. I dispatched Acting Ensign Hicks in a boat to him, and he was allowed to come on board without my knowledge. "He represented himself a good Union man, having business with me on behalf of good Union men of Mari- anna. I took him into my cabin, where he remained during his stay on board. He made substantially the fol- lowing statement: That there was a schooner of 60 tons burden, named the Kain, lying at Bear Creek, North Bay, about 20 miles from here, and partly loaded with cotton (of this fact I was already aware) ; that she could carry about 120 bales; that he, George W. Maslin, was the agent in this mission for four Union men of Marianna, named John T. Myrick, Alderman, Moore, and Burnett, one or two of whom owned part of the cotton on board the vessel. All had determined to get away from the South- ern Government, if possible, except Burnett, whom domes- tic affairs compelled to remain. "Myrick also wished to pay for some goods purchased in New York just before the war. As the only way to ac- complish these objects they proposed to buy with Con- federate money the vessel and some cotton they could procure to complete the cargo, together with the remain- ing interest in that already on board, and bring the vessel and cargo to this place, Maslin, who desired to leave, acting as captain, and, if possible, obtain my permission to proceed to Pensacola or Key West, where, on proof of their loyalty, they hoped to be allowed to sell their vessel and cargo, or, if I should refuse such permission, to land their cargo upon the island here and await your action. "The four men are known by refugees here to be true and loyal mten. Capain Maslin says he is an English- man, who has been in this country about twelve years, residing most of that time at Key West, and has taken out his first papers of naturalization. While on board he took the oath of allegiance. "I told Captain Maslin I could make no promise what- ever, or in any way compromise myself or Government; that if the vessel came down to me I should take possession of her, in the same way as if she were lawful prize, and refer the whole matter to you. Captain Maslin said he would report my answer to his principals and thought they would be willing to bring the cargo and schooner down and deliver them into my possession, to await the action of the proper authorities in the matter. "I warned him against attempting to run out. and in order to guard against surprise, I told him where to anchor. He brought two letters with him, which I enclose. St. Andrews, Florida 109 "Very respectfully, your obedient servant, "W. R. BROWNE, "Acting Master, Commanding. "Acting Rear-Admiral Theodorus Bailey, "Commanding Eastern Gulf Blockading Squadron." Letter from Acting Rear-Admiral Bailey, U. S. Navy, to Acting Master Brov^ne, U. S. Navy, commanding U. S. bark Restless stating his inability to suspend the blockade. "U. S. Flagship San Jacinto, "Key West, January 28, 1864. "Sir: In reply to your communication of January 19, enclosing a letter to yourself from John T. Myrick (relative to a proposed plan for running a cargo of cotton out of St. Andrew's Bay, with a view to delivering it over to the blockading squadron there and afterwards, on proof of the owner's loyalty, applying to obtain it for their own benefit) , I have to state that by a decision of the United States district judge at this place 'only the Presi- dent, acting under authority of laws of Congress, could license such' an agreement. The admiral of the fleet can not suspend the laws of Congress nor the blockade. "You can communicate this to the persons mentioned in your letter at your discretion. "Respectfullv, "T. BAILEY. "Actg. Rear-Admiral Comdg. Eastern Gulf Squadron. "Acting Master Wm. R. Browne. U. S. Navy "Commanding U. S. bark Restless." Report of November 30th showed the bark Midnight, eight guns on St. Andrews station Acting Master A. C. Welles in charge, December 15th; same; December 31st, same; Janu- ary 16th, 1865, same. The report of February 1st shows the bark James L. Davis, four guns, Acting Master W. N. Griswold. in charge, on the St. Andrews station. The report of February 15th shows the bark Midnight, eight guns. Acting Master J. C, Welles, on St. Andrews Bay station. The same report February 28th, March 15th, April 1st, April 15th, May 1st, May 15th, June 1st: June 14th Acting Rear-Admiral reported to the Secretary of the Navy that the Midnight, with other vessels in the East Gulf Squad- 110 St. Andrews, Florida ron, would be sent North as soon as they could be brought from the stations where stationed. This closed the blockading of this harbor. Besides the capturing of vessels, which were attempting to run the block- ade, the officers and crews of the vessels stationed here did much work in destroying the salt works, for which St. Andrews Bay was noted. The vessels on the St. Joseph Blockade at times came to this bay and captured prizes, as in the case of the capture of the steamer Florida on April 6th, 1862, and sloop LaFayette, on the 4th of April, by the bark Pursuit, from St. Joseph Bay, The bark Roebuck was here for a lengthy period of time, and its officers and crew did much in the way of destroying salt works, etc. It was a crew from this bark that had the fight at Old Town, with Captain Robinson's company of Con- federates, on March 20th, 1862. It was the Restless, Acting Master Browne in charge, that took up a position 800 yards in front of the "City of St. Andrews," early on the morning of December 11th, 1863, and soon destroyed it by burning. Browne's report of the matter is as follows: "Selecting the largest group of houses, we succeeded in firing it, our third shell bursting in one of the houses at the southeast end. The wind being E. S. E., communi- cated the flames quickly to the others, consisting of 32 houses and shanties, which were speedily reduced to ashes, and will no more afford shelter, as heretofore, to the enemy, from which they watched the proceedings of all which took place in or about the harbor." We have talked with a care-taker, who was there at the time, and he states that the fire began in a building near where Mr. William L. Wilson's house now stands in Old Town, St. Andrews, which was in a group of houses at the beach terminus of the road leading out of St. Andrews to Marianna. There was not a single building of any kind at the close of this fire. The anchorage of this fleet was just within the bay, back of Hurricane Island. There were numerous houses on the island, a dock, trees on the large sand hills which wera to be St. Andrews, Florida I 1 1 found there then, and a cemetery, where those dying on the fleet were buried. Years after the bodies of these parties were removed to the national cemetery at Pensacola. Refugees and contrabands, who came to the fleet for pro- tection, were housed on the island, as were some of those taken prisoners. There was also a dock on the peninsula east of what is now known as Hawk's Point, then called Davis Point. This section was, as was Hurricane Island, occupied by the Federal forces. The entire operations of the Federals and Confederates in and about St. Andrews Bay, are to be found in the Official Record of the Army, and of the Navy, and the writer may at some future time republish these records in our local papers. Many have thus appeared in the past, but there remains some unpublished. INDEX Americus Vespucius, Apalachee Indians, Articles traded for, Austerlitz, Baker's purchase, James L., Bartram quoted Bay Head, Bazare's expedition. Blockade running, Blood, David R., Bombardment of Old St. Andrews by bark "Restless," Bonnycastle's report. Boom of 1886-88, Brinton quoted, Buena Vista Point, Cabeza DeVaca, 2, 3, 4, Callaway, P. M., Campbell, Ann W., Campbell's "Colonial Florida," Caroline Bayou, Cedar Creek, Charlevoix's voyage. Charter of St. Andrews Bay Land Company, Chief Joe, Dr. Keyes' account of the killing of, Cincinnati Company, Civil War, just before the. Civil War, close of, Clarke, Clark, Major Elijah, " 23, Clark, Gov. John, 23. 24, 26, 26. 28. Clark, Mary, Clark, Wiley, Clark Monument, Clement and Exum, Coast line, changes in. Coast Survey Officers' visit. Cobb, Gen. Howell, Coe, Jesse, Coe Point reservation reliquished. Colored troops from Cedar Keys land at St. Andrews, Confederate Government salt works. Congressional apprapriatlon, Crawford, W. H., Custom House, b. A. R. records, Davis Point, Davis quoted, 68. Dead Lakes. DeLuna's expedition. 2 7. 8 14 82 97 18. 14 28 4 57 38, 39 86, 89 12 102 21 17 16. 48 57 27, 30 11 41 28 6 65 100 60 93 17 24. 25 29, 32 26 30. 31 29, 30 28, 33 16 41 67 S9 96 91. 92 85 84 26. 26 32 31 67 63, , 76 36 4 Desert, DeSoto, Dyer's Point, Early Fishermen : James Witherspoon, Peter Parker, Joe Massalena, East Bay salt works. East and middle districts of Florida, Econfina, Econfina River, English possession Florida, English emigrants, English removal. Era of homesteading, Escambia County, Establishment of first Custom House, with list of Custom Officers, Female Academy, Ferry, Figs, 8 First building after the War, First census. First post-office, First post-masters : James B. Clarke, A. B. Pearson, T. E. Clarke, Wm. T. Porter, Wm. E. Forslew, First English settlements. Fishing, 20, 34, Forbes' sketches of Florida, 1821, quoted. Fortifications asked for, Freebooters, Ft. Croevoceur, F-al'er's "Purchase of Florida," Gainer'r; reminiscences. W. ..A., Gainer, Walter R., quoted, Garay's Land, Gauld's chart, 10, Gautier, Sr., Peter W.. Genet, Gilmer's "Georgians," Gilmore,