TT 520 .S88 Copy 1 lEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS r ^^ '.(^ /S'-' ^^''^■^^m-t^j ..J-4y^ :in^' ' mT""^ ^\ f'w-' v% i/ 1 r'^>' "/,.• ^ ^ -r^ •^^4^^ ,-4^^ .4^^^ ^' 'm- _'^.: ■0^ ;?;;sSi' -- '^^v ,':'^^^ :^#^' ' '^^'v /t;^ -^-'%l. ^h^' .v>y" Hi J ^^ .3=^ii^^^ fi?^' ^rt: v;^" ii-^ r:M<1l^^ ■-f^' m^ k--^*'' •/■ ^ r'Jl^'^^r.^' /^^f ^ ^u^ -^4 ■^'^^^ 9^ K.. ^^ ^'7' ^^f. ?i!i-_ '^:>m^^^^'^ f>, (j r^ 'y?,<>V»si^ a^: C^' v^^ .,/^>^_ -^ -.Z'- ^l,- *, ^'-^^,.^- •^ ^w::^. NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF. (ulting [ddies' Gdrments BASED UPON. A SCIENTIFIC, SURE AND SIMPLE METHOD CIVING THE CORRECT FROI'OKTION S FOR EACH TYPE OK EORM OV EVERY SIZE, WITH VARIATIONS FOR AI.I. KINDS OF DISl'ROI'OR FIONA TE SHAI'ES AND FORMS BY CHAS. J. STONE CHICAGO, ILL. II.I.rSTKATKl) I'.V ri.ATi:S OI- FINELY ICNGKAVED I)IA(,KAMS, WITH ri'LI. INSTIUTTIONS I'OK DKAI-TINC, THE VAKIOL'S STVLICS OF LADIIiS' GARMENTS PUBLISHED BY THE CHAS. J. STONE CO. CUTTING SCHOOL CHICAGO THE LIBRARY OF CONSRESS, Two Copies RtCEtVED APR, 15 1901 COPvrtlGMT ENTRY CLASS O/XXc N». COPY B. .1' Copyright, 1901, By THE Chas ] Stone Co. Cutting School. DEDICATION ■M ^ ^* To the Twentieth Century Cutter whose ruling principle is to progress in the Sartorial Art and to keep abreast of the times in this comparatively new feature of the Art-Ladies' Tailoring-- I dedicate this book as a witness of my gratification of the appreciation with which my first edition was received on this branch of the Sartorial Art. CONTENTS. Preface, .... Introduction, Proportion Table, Proportions, the Division of Height, Proportions, the Division of Width, Proportions in Practice, Foundation Bodice, Foundation Bodice with Two Under arm Foundation Bodice with One Under arm Double Breasted Basque, Basque, Short Measure Method, Eton Jacket, Single Breasted Jacket, Double-Breasted Jacket, Zouave Blouse, Jacket by Shoulder Measure Method, Single-Breasted Jacket, Shirt Waist, Double-Breasted Frock, Double-Breasted Coat, Single-Breasted Overcoat, Double-Breasted Paletot, Box Overcoat, - - - - Raglan Overcoat, Raglan Ulster, Double-Breasted Fur Jacket, Sleeves, .... Regular Coat Sleeve, Sleeves for Basques and Shirt Waists, - Jacket Sleeve, Jacket Sleeve with Cuff, Large Top Sleeve, - Sleeve with Large Top, Pieces, Piece. PAGE 7 - 8 9 lO-I I 12-13 14-15 16-17 18-19 20-2 I 22-23 24-25 26-27 28-29 i^-S • 32 33 34-35 36-37 38-39 40-41 42-43 44-45 46-47 48-49 50-51 52-53 54-55 56 - 57 58-59 - 60 61 - 62 63 The Raglan Sleeve, Sleeve for Raglan Ulster, The Foundation Skirt, Three-Gored Costume Skirt, Five-Gored Skirt, - Six- Gored Skirt, Rainy-Day Skirt, Fancy Skirt, Five-Gored Skirt with Flounce, Seven-Gored Skirt, Divided Bicycle Skirt, Riding Breeches, The Leggins, Bicycle Cap, The Golf Cap, Riding Skirt, Riding Skirt, Half Circle Cape. Combination Cape Method, Opera Cloaks, - Cape with Yoke, Variations — The Corpulent Figure, Variations — The Easiest Way, How to Make the Canvas, General Information, Superlative Works on Cutting, The Chas. J. Stone Cutting School, The Stone's Reliable Block Patterns, Tailors' Squares and Measures, Cutters' and Tailors' Shears, New Century Tracing Wheel, The On the Square, Practical Cutter and Tailor, The PAGE - 64 65 66-67 - 68-69 70 71 - 72-73 74-75 - 76-77 78 79 - 80 81 82-83 - 84-85 - 86 86 - 87 - 88-89 90, 91, 92, 93 ■ 94-95 96-97 - 98-99 lOO-IOT 102-103 104-105 106-107 108-109 [ 10 I I I 1 12 113 114 115 "5 116 PREFACE. J* .* ^ ^T^HIS CKNrURV is opening with the ()iitlool< for business brighter than 1 ever before, and especially is this true in regard to Ladies' Tailorings In these days of progress this department of the trade is making an earnest bid for its share of recognition in the sartoiial art. The time has come when the science and art of designing, cutting and making ladies' garments is forging its way into the four cpiarters of the world, and tailors and cutters must be prepared to meet the demand by being thoroughly c(iuipped — ready to master its requirements. It is a fact to be regretted that so few works promoting the cidtivation of ideas treating clearly and concisely on this special subject exist, and of those extant a proportionately small number can be relied upon. Hooks are our instructors; they expand the intellect, open the treasures of knowledge, rendering possible success in life undreamed of. It is to further the development of the art of the highest order of our craft that I have produced the New Superlative Method of Cutting Ladies' Cat ments. Like my other works on cutting it is based on proportions, using for variations both shoulder-measure and short-measure methods, and makes an invaluable companion work to my "New Superlative System of Cutting Gen- tlemen's Garments." I view the pages between the covers of this volume with the firmest conviction that it will be the instrument of power to assist many a searcher after knowledge in this line, and that it will open up a fiood of light on various points that seemed obscure and unsolvable. The Author. ( VII. J INTRODUCTORY. LADIES' TAILORING is commanding the attention of the world to-day, and an artist in this line has the fullest scope in exercising his ability in designing and fitting garments. The modes vary and the innovations from season to season multiply; hence, the fashionable ladies' tailor must be ever on the alert. Women insist on perfection, both in conception and execution of their costumes — and why should they not? — for a well-dressed woman is a work of art. The embodiment of grace and beauty is to be found in a perfect female form, and when a woman does not possess a perfect form she expects the tailor to counteract and hide all defects. It is more difficult to make the close fitting garments worn by women than to make perfect-fitting clothing for men; therefore a system based on pro- portions is an absolute necessity to accomplish the desired results. A careful study of the System explained between the covers of this volume will greatly simplify the difficulties involved in ladies' tailoring. This work allows for all possible variations, originality in ideas in any desired style, and that certain unity in a tailor-made suit which is demanded and only artistically attained by the System of Proportions. This country is producing ladies' tailors who are steadily coming right to the front, and the greatest of achievements in this branch of the sartorial art will be their reward. Take up this most fascinating and popular study of the art of constructing "symphonies" of garments in outline andgrace while the trend is upward and onward. The basis of the System is determinate, but the style and fashion are always fluctuating, and the cutter must learn the principles embodied in the System, so that he can bring them into a practical application in his every day practice in cutting garments according to the current fashion. The fundamental principle upon which this System is based is the pro- portionate division of the female form, and the study of these proportions will give the cutter a most comprehensive understanding of the foundation he is to build on. The proportionate figures are those that are neither stooped nor over-erect, and when all the different lengths correspond with height, and when all the different widths correspond with the breast circumference, the figure may be tall and slim or short and stout, and still be in proportion. The table of proportions is not of the ideal form, but of the average. The circumference measurements are taken from the breast, and the lengths from the height, as follows; If the breast is 34, all circumference measure- ments are found opposite that breast measure, and if the height is 5 feet 6 ■nches, all the lengths are found opposite that height scale. (VIII.) PROPORTIONATE SCALE OF AVERAGE MEASUREMENTS. Nulural Inside Length ; r„: of Arm to ■WalsUength e||)„ I 2 6j4 12^ 6>^ ' .> 6^ »3>^ 7 M 7 '4 '4l- 7^2 15 8 •5>4^ 8>8 >5K m •sK 83.^ 16 834 l6>8 85 8 '6^ 83^ l6.^H m i6'i 9 l65„ 91V. I 63^ 9/8 i61i 9,^. i6J.^ 9% lOie g,% >7 9l8 Fall Sleeve Side Lenpih Depth ol Si-je Feet - Inches IRCUMFKRENCE ! length Brc&sl Bust Waist Neck Scjr. Blade 12'A 6'.- 5)4 4 24 24 20 I I I I 7ri 13 6^ 524 4- 2 25 25 20K 1^14 II>^ 8 13/2 7 6 4 4 26 26 20.4 ityi 12 8;.,! '4 7 .'4 6,'4 4- 6 27 27 203^ , "K I2>^ 8^3 iA'A 7K- 6-^ 4- 8 28 28-4 2 I >2>i 13 9 '5 7;^4 6^4 4-10 29 29)2 2 ■ ,'4 .234 1 3, '2 9;'3 16 8 7 5 ° .;o 3034 2l}4 '3/8 14 97i .6;4' 8,',: 5 ' 3' 32 2 2 •3^2 14K' 10 I6J4 8j8 iH 5 2 32 33 J4 223^ •3J-8 15 io;/3 1 6. '4 8r',-. 7 l''! 5^ J 33 34)2 2 3, '4 m;4 '5J2 10-3 17 8K 7;'4 5- 4 34 35^4 24 1 4-; 8 16 1 1 17K 8 '4 7/8 5- 4,'--' 35 3 7 24^4 '5 i6yi iij-'i i7>^ 8^ 8rV. 5- 5 36 38 2 5K- '5 --8 17 II?3 17^ 8,». 8,". 5- 5!:^ 3 7 39 -'6. '4 15H I7>'2 12 18 8,', 8,',.. 5 6 38 40 27 l6>8 18 1-/3 iS's 8,"« 8,v. 5 6>4 39 41 27^ i6K< i8;4 1254 18 '4 8 ^h 5 7 40 42 28/. 1 l6j8 19 13 18.- 8 7 16 8"/, 5- 7 '4 41 42H 2 9. '4 i7;4 •9/4 1 3, '4 .8-4 7 '8 ■ 9 5- ly.- 42 43 ' 2 30 i7-'s i9>^ 13'- 185, 7 1b 9' 5- 7^4 43 44,'2 30:'4 18 i9;4 14 .8^ 7?4 9'.t 5- « 44 45^2 31)4 i8)h 20 mK NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. EXPLANATION OF PLATE L PROPORTIONS. •|HE DINISION OK IIKIGHI'. The tlicory advanced by our most noted sculptors, painters, artists and professors of anthropology, regard- ing the height of the human body and its proper divis- ion, is that the entire height, from the crown of the head to the end of the big toe contains eight faces or heads, and on this theory they divide the human form into eight faces or heads. The distance from the bot- tom of the heel to the end of the toe is estimated to be o'j of the entire height. They also claim that the proper way to measure for height is to have the subject in a lying-down position with feet stretched out, or if in a standing position it must be on tip-toe. This theory is undoubtedly correct if we want to find the correct length of the face, but to tailors and dressmakers this is of less importance. What we want is the division of the parts of the body that we are required to cover, and it matters not if the face of our client is one-sixteenth of an inch longer or sliorler, and while the distance from the crown of the head to bottom of heel does not contain eight times the length of the face, yet I find in my practice that tliis distance can be correctly divided into eight parts and each of the^e parts subdivided into eighths, giving us 64 parts or units for height. Tlie division of the female form is nearly the same as that of the male, with the following exceptions: Her shoulders are narrower, her waist smaller and hips larger, and her anus and legi are shorter than the male. I consider the average height of the female to be 5 feet 4 inches or 64 inclies, so if the height of 64 inches is divided into 64 parts or units, each unit will be one inch. The accompanying diagram is that of a female figure, such as the ladies' tailor or dressmaker find them, " laced tight in a corset. " The following method is used in dividing the height of the 64th unit theory, measure taken from top of head to bottom of heel: THE DIVISION OF HEIGHT. From to[) of head to top of neck, as from A to B is ^ or „'V Note.- It will be noticed that the face on diagram is a trifle longer than this division. From top of neck to top of shoulder, as from B to C is e"4- From top of shoulder to bottom of scye, from C to D, is ,f',. which only holds good for the bone structure. Note. — This distance must be regulated by the diame- ter of the scye, according to flesh development, as the distance from N to I' is width, not height. {Sre explanation of rvidtln.^ B to E is waist length and is '4 of height. ]•; to F is J8 height. .■\ to F is }4 of the entire length of the body. I) to F is '4 of the height, to this add one unit which regulates length of sleeve. In fleshy forms the length of sleeve will decrease, and in lean forms increase a trifle, according to in- crease or decrease of flesh under the arm at P. F to G is 2 units or parts. G to H is 4 units or parts. H to J is 2 units or parts. I to J, " the knee," is yi. 1 to K, "lower part of calf," is y?,. K to L, "ankle," is 4 parts. L to M, "bottom of heel," is 4 parts. The length of leg will be 2 units or parts less than ^ of entire height. NEW SUI^I'-RI-AIIVI-; SVSTKM Ol- CUTTINCr l.ADIKS' OARMKNTS. PLATE I. Alpha Paramount Cut "A" 105. Copyrit'tued If'.i? by i'h:is. ,1. .Stono. NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. EXPLANATION OF PLATE 2. PROPORTIONS. THE lil\ISION OF WIDIH. The width is divided into sixteen equal parts. Note these divisions of widths are made from the net breast measure taken snug above the bust "mammillae." Of these parts Igive six for the front, six for the back and two for each side or arm, four for the waist and eiglit for the hip, the largest part being across the pelvis. The average breast measure of the female form is 34 inches, and the bust over the mammilla 36 inches. The pro|)()rtionate waist will be 10 inches less than breast, or two-thirds of the bust measure. The hips will measure 40'^ inches, which is one- fourtli of breast, on s(iuare 4J4' inches, added to bust measure, 36. i he entire width across the breast, as frjni C to 8, 'j breast measure, is divided into eighths, and the width of back from C to 3 is Js- C to 5 is .^s. The width of back at top of neck is !s. The width of shoulders at top are reduced j^ the distance between lines 2 and 3 as per dotted line, so while the width of back from C to 3 is .'a of breast, the width of shoulders is reduced «', at line B K. The entire widtli of body is divided into sixteenths of the breast, or eighths on division, and the extra bust whatever it may measure is added to the front as from S to 9. While the body is divided into sixteen parts or eighths on the division on the square in practice I use for the width of back and front of scye the divisions of thirds as fully explained in Plate 4. NEW SUPERI,ATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' (iARMENlS. '3 PLATE 2. Alpha Paramount Cut 'A" 106. Copyriiihted ira" by Chas. .1. Stone. 14 NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OE CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. EXPLANATION OF PLATE 3. PROPORTIONS IN PRACTICE. locate top of front shoulder, also the lower shoulder point of back at W. Jacket, by i.roportionate method, from the follow- A to X is ^^ breast. Draw a line from X through point ing measurements: ^y ^^^^^,^ ^^ j,_ ^,,,, f^^,^^ ^ to 13, ■, inch, and Height, 5 feet 4 inches. Breast, 34 inches. lUisl, 36 inches. shape as represented, the top of back coming ^ Waist, 24 inches. j^^,^ ^^^^^^ ^^^.^^ ^ ^^ ^^ ^^ TO iiRAir. I[ ^yjii !,(. ^gen that the distance from K to W is tliesame Square lines A B I) and ATS. as K to 21, and the distance from 27 to V is the A to B is 3J2 inches, being «, of height plus jj inch. same as 27 to 21. 15 to C is 34 breast plus '/i inch. Stjuare down from E to 15, and advance from 15 to 16 A to 1) is 16 inches, being '4 of height. one inch. Then draw a line from 16 to E and a Square lines B, C and D. line from S to 1'. C to K is jd breast, and to !•' is }j full bust. S to 19 is j^^ breast and 19 to 20 is Ij inch. Divide breast into eight equal parts and mark oft as per h' to 18 and 16 to 17 is 2 inches. black dots. Shajie front as represented. C to H is }h, H to I is 'a, I to | is Js, J to K is 'a, I) to 23 is i inch, and D to 24 is 6 inches. K to 1. is !a. D to i is i J4 inches. Square up lines | and !,. 1 to 2 is J^ inch. Points J V and U L will then form the diameter of scye, 2 to 3 is 2^^ inches. but as the scye in a lady's garment is cut somewhat 3 to 4 is i inch. wider than in a gentleman's, I advance from L to 4 to 5 is 2 '4 inches, thus making the back and side 10 one-half inch and recede from J to 11 one half body and under-arm piece ^ of waist measure. inch. The arm-scye will then be nearly a circle, 14 to 6 is ij4 inches. as indicated by dotted line 27, 21. 6 to 7 is 2^4 (same as side and underarm pieces). Point G is halfway between 1". and 1'. 7 to 8 is i^ inches. Sc|uare up from G to R. Note. — See Plate 4 for more complete method of FJivide distance between G and 10 into three equal waist suppression. jjarts and locate points O and P, and square up The dotted lines on back and side body indicate the points O and P. pleats. Z is halfway between B and \'. E'inish draft as represented and add seams all over Draw a line from T through /, to 12. This line will when cutting the cloth. SEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTriNG I.ADll.S' (;\RMi:MrS. •5 PLATE 3. i6 NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. EXPLANATION OF PLATE 4. FOUNDATION BODICE It is absolutely necessary to first understand the proportions before we attempt to find the dispropor- tions, so the surest and safest way to proceed in cutting ladies' garments is to first and foremost get an under- standing of the anatomical divisions of the human form, and from these divisions of the height and width of our subject, outline a model pattern, and then apply actual measurements for any variations that are needed to make the garment fit perfectly in every respect. Of course the making up of the garment has a great deal to do with the fit of it, but making alone will not produce it. The garment must first be cut correctly, then made up carefully according to instructions from the cutter who should be thoroughly posted in the making up as well as the cutting of the garments, in order to produce sat- isfactory results in building ladies' garments. In dividing the female form I give the division of width as sixteen parts or eights, which is correct. In practice I use the eighth to locate all points, or for convenience sake I use one-third breast and ha inch for the width of the back and two-thirds breast less ji inch for the size of the blade from center of back to front of scye. I will here e,\plain the relation between both the tliird and eighth theory: 15reast, 34 | Bust, 36 | Waist, 24 Height, 5 feet 4 inches. TO DKAKT. Square out and down from A. A to B is 3 units of height and '/■i inch. B to C is yi inch and C to D is j{ breast, or to make it more plain, for a figure 5 feet 4 inches I go down from A to C 4 inches with a variation of I'e inch for every inch in height. The distance from A to C will then be for a figure — 5 feet 4 inches, 5 feet 6 inches, 5 feet 8 inches, 5 feet 10 inches, 6 feet, 4 inches 4^ inches 4}{ inches 43s inches 4^2 inches The distance from C to D is always one- fourth breast of whatever size is drafted. A to 37 is ^ inch and 37 to E is one-fourth of height; in this case 16 inches. E to 24 is 2 inches. Square lines B, C, D and E. If extra size is wanted over the breast I go in as from D t > T, '< inch and apply the breast and bust mea>ure from L. D to H is J4 breast and H to 3 and H to 5 is '8 breast. The distance from D to 5 is ^4 of the breast measure as divided by lines 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5. In drafting the scye I would according to this method recede 3.3 inch, as from 3 to I, and advance in front of scye yi inch, as from 5 to J. If we use the other method there is then L to F yi and from L to G is ^3 breast. F to 1 is 3-g inch and G to J is yi inch. Square up from I and J and down from H through W. D to L is i^ inch. L to M is half of breast measure and L to N is half of bust measure. Square down from N to U. U to V is one inch. O is halfway between M and N. O to P is yi bust and P to Q is ys breast. Square up lines P and Q and draw a line from N to S and a line from R to C. A to Y is 1/8 breast. Draw a line from Y through Z. Z to 34 is yi inch and Y to ^^ is ^ inch. R to 35 is the same as ^^^ to 34. J to K is ^4 breast. R to T is ^ inch less than I4 breast, and T to 23 is yi inch. The broken line from 23, N, 20 and 14 is the front center line, and whatever is added to this is for overlap; as in this case 23 to 30 is }^ inch, N to 28 and 14 to 27 is J/^ inch. J to 19 is one inch. Draw a line from F through 19 to 20, and divide the dis- tance from 19 to 20 into 3 equal parts for the darts. W to X is yi inch, W to 11 is yi inch. E to 6 is J^ inch and 6 to 7 is i^ inches. 7 to 8 is ^ inch. 8 to 9 and 11 to 10 is 233 inches, making the distance from 6 to II one-fourth of the waist measure. In some instances I add y( inch at 9 and 10 and take this amount out in front darts. X to 1 1 is ^ inch. Apply half of waist measure from 6 to 7, 8 to 9, 10 to II and 12 to 17, then measure the distance from 17 to 14, which is the amount to be taken out in the darts, as follows: First square back from 14 to 13, then draw a line from X to 13; if the distance from 14 to 13 is, as in this case, 5 inches, take out one-third of this amount from 15 to 16 (use 20 on twelfths) and two-thirds from 17 to 18 (use 20 on sixths on the square). 14 to 15 is ij4 inches and 16 to 17 is y^ inch. Finish as represented and add seams when cutting the cloth. NEW SUPERI.ATlVIi SVSTKM OF CUTTING LADIES' (;AkMi;Nl.S. '7 PLATE 4. i8 NEW SUPERLATIVE SVSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. EXPLANATION OF PLATE 5. FOUNDATION BODICE WITH TWO UNDER-ARM PIECES. The accompanying draft is produced from the fol- lowing measurements: Breast, 36 | Bust, 38 | Waist, 26 | Hip, 42)^ ■)'() DRAFT. Square out and down from A. A to B is Va inch. B to C is 2 inches for 5 feet 4 inches with a variation of I'li of an inch for every inch in height. C to D is ji breast plus ;i inch (18 on thirds). B to E is 16 inches (one-fourth of height). E to F is 5 inches, which is 5 units {i, of height). The height is divided into 64 parts. Square lines C, D, E and F. D to G is yi of breast, and D to H is j.. of bust measure. I is half way between G and H. I to J is ji bust. Square up to K. K to Q is }i breast. A to U is J/8 breast. Draw a line from U to N and from Q to N for slope of shoulder. U to S is J4 inch. D to M is yi and to L is ;3 breast. L to O is J'j inch. to P is '(i breast. D to W is yi breast on division. Square down from W to X and lower waist line ji inch below X to 5 one-half inch. 1'" to I is '{ inch. In sizes below 25 waist I use only one under-arm piece, but in sizes above 25 waist it is necessary in a close-fitting waist or bodice to have two underarm pieces in order to produce a smart waist effect besides a clean, smooth fit over the hips. The waist being 25, 1 use 25 for working power in the following manner: E to I is ^4 inch. 1 to 2 is t'j waist ( 12)2 on twelfths). 2 to 3 is _'/. inch and 3 to 4 is 'g waist (i2j^ on sixths). 5 to 6 and 5 to 1 1 is i". waist, making under-arm piece yi. 6 to 7 is Jj inch. 7 to 8 is '/6 waist. 8 to TO and 4 to 9 is j( inch added, also j| inch is added to under-arm piece at 11, so as to make the side body and under-arm piece measure the same width. \V to D4, and W to C3, is ,'2 waist. Ai is halfway between D and M. A I to B2 is yi inch. N to T is J^ inch. N to F6 is I '4 inches. Draw a line from F6 to B2 and from B2 to 2 and to 3. FO to G7 is yi inch. E5 is halfway between D4 and G7. Draw a line from M to 4 and 9 and from M to 8 and 10. Draw a line from D4 to 7 and to 6. Draw a line from C3 to 1 i and to point y( inch for ward of 1 1. O to 27 is 2 inches. Draw a line from D through 27, which line will locate the average height of darts, when our client wears a low French corset. For a high corset I go down from O only i inch and draw the line from M. 28 to 29 and 29 to 30 is }i bust. H8 to I9 is y^ bust and yi inch. Draw a line from 29 to I9. Apply y^ waist measure, 6j^ inches, from 5 to star at 15, then measure distance from star 15 to front at Z, and take out yi of what is over for suppression from 13 to 14, and ;',? from 15 to 16. 14 to 15 is ^ inch. Hav- ing added '^ inch from 4 to 9 and from S to 10, in all y^ inch, I suppress this amount between fore- part and under arm piece as from 11 to 12. Now the waist will measure from i to Z 121^ inches, which is yi of waist measure. Q to V is ^ inch less than y( breast. V to Jio is 'j inch. Shape front center from V 10 to ■4^ inch forward of H, ji inch forward of Z down to H8. THE HIP. 17 to 1 8 and 19 is I'a hip each way. 17 to 22 and 23 is yi hip each way, and F25 is ^ hip, all on divis- ion on the square. F to 27, 17 to 22, 17 to 21 and 22 to 26 is i inch each. Shape hip as per diagrams and apply hip measure as follows: Measure width of back at F; place this amount at 24 and measure from 24 to 25, 23 to 20, 18 to 19, 21 to 26, continuing out to H8, i^ of hip measure and yi inch, and suppress yi the surplus in the first or yi in the second dart. This being only a constructive draft, the front edges will meet, and the length is to the hip' line, the draft to be changed in style to suit the cutter. NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTINC LADIES' GARMENTS. 19 PLATE 5. 20 NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. EXPLANATION OF PLATE 6. FOUNDATION BODICE WITH ONE 24 is halfway between 23 and V. UNDER-ARM PIECE. Draw a line from 24 to 13. In this manner, by the aid of these construction lines, the back and sidebodies 'I'he accompanying draft of a Ladies' Basque is for ^^,j[] ag^ume their proper shapes without the use of a figure measuring— dummy shapers. '"'^'' ' " 3 C to (i is '4 of breast and C to H is }< of bust measure. Height, - 5 ft- 4 in Breast, - - 34 Waist, - - 24 I is halfway between H and G. 'I'he draft is produced from proportions in the fol- I to J is 's bust (this is the only place where the divis- lowing manner: ion of busr is used). ■vo DRAFT. Square up from J to K and square down from H to X. Square out and down from A. ' X to Y is one inch in all cases excepting in corpulent A to B is }4 inch. figures, where e.xtra fat is added. B to C is j^' breast and 3^4 inches. Draw a line from Y to H and from H to K, and shape B to D is ^4 height (^16 inches). front center line as per dotted line from K to }i D to E is I '2 and D to F is 3 inches. inch forward of H ami }{ inch forward at Y; on Square lines C and I). to this line will come the front end of buttonholes, C to M is I.; and C to N is -.; breast. also the buttons are placed on this line. Then add N to O is J'2 inch. from this center line or button line to front edge Square up from O and M. of basque 34 inch for front edge, and on the left P is halfway between C and M. side is left fully \j inch extra for buttonstand, as P to 12 is '/j and M'to 13 is ^(. inch. per broken line. M to Q is yi breast plus }\ inch. A great number of cutters are in the habit of cutting () to 22 is I V. inches. the front edge hollow opi)osite the waist line. This is 22 to 23 is yi inch in and down. a mistake, for the front edge from bottom to about six B to T is 'a breast. inches up must be long, and in order to make it so, I Draw a line from T to Q. cut the edge slightly convexed or round, and hollow T to U is j/. inch. out the front dart from eleven up to about five inches. Q to 20 is '4 inch. O to 14 is i inch. D to I is '4 inch. Draw a line from M through 14. This will locate the 1 to 2 is I '4 inches. top of darts for the average form wearing a high Draw a line from 2 to 12 anil 12 to 22 for guide line. corset (for a low corset I go down 2 inches from 2 to 3 is l4 inch. O and draw the line from CV Draw a line from 3 to 12. H to 15 is I4 inch more than }i bust, and 15 to 16 is C to V is y. breast on division. y^ inch more than }s breast, and Y to 11 is ^ Sipiare down from \' to W and lengthen side 3i inch inch less than }i bust. below waist line at W, running out to nothing at 3 Having added yi inch extra to the back section of and Y. waist, I deduct same amount from the front section, W to 6 is yi and W to 7 is >^ inch. so instead of 6, it is only 5 ''3 inches, which I apply T'he waist measure being 24, one-fourth of this is 6 from 7 to 31. Then measure the distance from inches; deducting the width of the back, 1 14 inches, 34 to Y, which is the amount to be suppressed, from this leaves 434 inches, which will make the take out one third of this amount from 11 to 10, width of the sidebody and under-arm pieces each and two-third from 9 to 8. 2.;8 inches wide at waist, but in order to reduce 10 to 9 is 34 inch. the width of forepart from 7 to 8 so as to get it to Draw lines from 15 to 10 and 1 1, and from 16 to 8 and fit smoothly, I take "2 inch off from the front sec- 9, and shape darts as shown in diagram, tiou and add it to the bick section of waist; this 28 and 29 is on a line with point E will give '4 inch extra to each of the sidebody and 30 is '2 inch above a line drawn from point F, which under-arm ])ieces, so instead of 2j^ inches it will be runs parallel with waist line to point 19. from 3 to 4, 258 inches, and from 6 to 5, 254 inches. K. to L is '3 breast and K to Z is j{ inch less than }i Draw a line from 4 to 13 and from 5 to 13. breast. NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' (GARMENTS. PLATE 6. Draw a line from L to Q. Measure distance from U to 20 and make shoulder from L to 21 the same. O to S is J^ breast. In drafting the collar draw a line from first button to Z and from Z through L. 25 to 26 is I inch, and 25 to 27 is i}2 inches. The width of lapel and collar at notch is i }( inches. The bottom of the basque is left open at E, 28 and 29. In some instances the back and sides are cut shorter than the front, and the openings extend up to the waist line. NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. EXPLANATION OF PLATE 7. DOUBLE BREASTED BASQUE. This basque is cut double breasted with only one dart at the waist line and a V at the neck of the fore- part. The front closes with six buttons and the front edge comes up to line of dart. Tlie measures are as follows: Length of waist, i6 Breast, 34 Full length, 18 Rust, ■ 36 Side length. 8}i Wai:^t, 24 Scye, 16 Hip, - 40 ID D <.AFr. Square out and down from .\. A to B is y^ inch. B to C is 2 inches. C to D is ' .( of breast. C to E is length of waist and to 20 full length. Square lines C, D and K. D to N is Kj. and to O is -'.; of breast. to P is yj and N to Q is 'k inch. Square up lines P and Q. D to R is ji breast. Square down from R to S and T. D to F is }^ breast measure. D to G is j'j bust measure. Square down from G to H. H to U is I inch. 1 is halfway between F and G. I to J is )s bust. Square up from J to K and draw a line from K to G and from G to U. K to L is J/a breast, K to 16 is }i breast, and 16 to 17 is 1 inch. Draw a line from L to M for run of shoulder. A to V is ys breast. Draw a line from V through M. V to \V is ^^ and M to X is }i inch. L to V is the same as W to X. P to Z is 36 breast. M to 10 is I ^ inches, 10 to 11 is ji inch, and 12 is halfway between i i and R. 14 is halfway between D and Q, and 1 4 to 15 is -s inch. Q to 13 is 3 8 inch. Apply under-arm length (8)4 inches ) from R to T. T to 3 is ^ inch. E to I is 1J4 inches, i to 2 is J^ inch, 2 to 5 is 25^ inches, and 3 to 4 is 2.^8 inches. T to 6 is ^ inch. 30 is halfway between O anti G, and 30 to 9 is 2 inches. U to 8 is I ?,;i and 6 to 7 is 4)^ inches. The back and side-bodies will measure yi inch more than one-fourth of waist, and the forepart }4 inch less than one-fourth of waist measure. U to 2r is 3 I4' inches. U to 19 is ij^ and G to 18 is 334 inches. Shape as represented, and add seams when cutting the cloth. NKW SUI'KRI.ATIVE SYSTEM OF GUI' TING LADIKS' GARMENTS 23 PLATE 7. 24 NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. EXPLANATION OF PLATE 8. BASQUE. 7 Ya i6 iS •5 i4 Blade, loY^ Breast, 34 Bust, 36 Waist, 24 Sleeve length. 18 WITH ONE DART. The width of lapel and collar at notcli is i yl inches. There is no seam in center of back : there is an opening in the front dart to within 'j inch of the waistline, and also an opening in center back. The draft is produced by actual measurements as follows: Depth of scye. Waist length. Full length. Strap, Over shoulder, TO DRAFT. Square out and down from A. A to B is 3^ inch and A to K is ^ breast. B to C is depth of scye, 7^ inches, to D waist length, and to E full length. Square lines C and D. C to F is blade measure, 10^4 inches, and G is halfway between C and F. G to H is Y^ inch. H to J is Yz inch more than ' ,; breast. K to L is Y2 inch and J to W is .' « inch. W to 1 is I J^ inches. I to 2 is 3 s inch. G to M is I }^ inches. D to 4 is Y inch. T to U is ^8 breast. Apply strap length from B to L; place this at F and measure up to U, net strap measure; then draw a line from U to J. U to V is the same as L to W. Apply over shoulder measure from C to 28; place this amount at F and measure up net over shoulder measure to 29, which invariably comes out correct with proportionate slope of shoulder. Square down from Q to Y. Y to Z is I inch; draw a line Q to Z and from Q to T. 1 Xo i2\% Y inch less than Yi breast. Q to 14 and Z to 15 is Y 'nch for button stand. 12 to 13 is 2j;( inches. 23 is halfway between F and Q. 23 to 24 is 2 inches. Z to II is t Ji; inches. Y to 22 is 2 i_i inches. Apply waist measure from Z to 11; place this at 4, measure out to 5 and from 6 to 7, 8 to O and 9 to 10, half of waist measure. 4 to 5 is 1J4 inches. 5 to 6 is ^ inch. 6 to 7 is 2^8 inches. C to I is half breast. Square down from I to N. I to X and N to O is % inch. O to 8 is 25^. 3 is halfway between 2 and X. Apply under arm length from I to N, 8Y inches. O to 9 is Y inch. C to P is half of breast measure. C to Q is half of bust measure. R is halfway between P and Q. R to S is yi bust. Square up to T. The sleeve is drafted by proportions of the breast, as follows: Square out and down from A. A to B is 1^4 and A to C is Y breast. C to D is i^ inch. C to G is Y^ breast and H is halfway between C and G; square up to I and draw a line from I to C. D to F is 18 inches actual length, and E is halfway be- tween D and F. E to N and F to P is i inch. Sijuare out from E to O by Fand from N to Q by P. N to V is 1 3 breast and P to R is ^ breast. Lay long arm of square on V and short arm on P, letting corner of square touch point R, and square V, R, P. Y to U is >^ inch. D to M and D to L is ^^ inch. G to J is yi, breast; sweep out from J to K by V. G to K is yi breast and K to T is 'i inch. G to S is Y inch. F to X is 134! inches and R to W is 13/4 inches. Y is halfway between P and R. NEW SUFKRI.ATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING l-ADIKS' GARMENTS. 25 PLATE 8. 26 NEW SUPF':RLATIVE system of cutting LADIES' GARMENTS. EXPLANATION OF PLATE 9, ETON JACKET. The back is cut in one piece, no seam in the center. The width of the back at the waist seam is one inch more than )4 waist so as to bring the seam well to front. There is a i J/( inch wide belt around the waist running through the front dart and fastened with hooks in front. The front of coat may be buttoned up, but is usually worn open so as to expose a fancy shirt waist. 1 6 i?4 Breast, Bust, Waist, Length of waist. Underarm length, Front length, 21 TO DRAFT. Square out and down from A. A to B is 4 inches. B to (" is '.,' breast. A to F is ' .■ iiicli. F to 1) is waist length, 16 inches. Square lines C and D. C to V, is yi inch. Draw back center line from .\ through li to G. E to N is ^j breast, and to O is '/i of bust measure. E to H is ' ; and to I is - ; of lireast. I to I is |1. and H to K is -^ inch. Square uj) lines J and K. E to L is y^ breast. Square down from L to M. O to S is }4^ bust; square up to T and down to 10. Draw line from T to H. T to U is '8 breast. 34 36 24 Draw a line from Li to O. I'" to W is }4 breast. Draw a line from W through V. W to X is j/i inch. Y to 14 is yi inch. T to 13 is the same as X to 14. J to Z is Vc, breast. M to 3 is 3/^ inch, or apply under-arm length from I. to 3. 3 to 5 is 24 inch. G to 1 is 7 inches, being i inch more than j/; of waist measure. Square up from i to 2, and draw a line from 2 to 5. Apply front length from V to X. Place this at T and measure down to Q, 21 inches. In this draft I' to Q is i inch, and P to R is i inch. R to 6 is 2 '4^ inches. S to 10 is 2 y-j inches. Shape front dart from 10 to 6, and sweep from 6 for length of forepart at 7. 5 to 7 is 2 ?4 inches. T to V is J^ inch less than '4 breast. V to 24; full length, lo'^;; front to darts, 13^2; to waist, 20; full length, 23. 24 42 Breast, 34 Waist, Bust, 37 Hip, TO U UAKl Square out and down from .A. A to B is J4 of upper shoulder measure and Jj inch. Square across from B. B to H is "^ breast. B to I is ^ bust. Square down from I to V. J is halfway between H and L J to K is J8 of bust. Square up from K to E. In proportionate forms the strap will measure ^ inch less than half of the upper shoulder; in this case the strap is half of upper shoulder; hence our client is y2 inch erect; so I raise the front as from E to F J4 inch so as to get tiie front strap long enough, but hav- ing obtained the depth of scye from the shoulder measure, I mu^t lower the bick )2 inch as from A to G. Lower the back whatever the front is raised. G to R is ^ inch in all cases. G to Q is }^ breast. B to M is >^ inch less than )-2 of lower shoulder, and B to N is ^ of lower shoulder and ^4 inch. Square up lines M and N. B to O is J4 breast on division. Square down to P. N to T is ' ,; breast. Draw a line from O to T. Q to S is J^ inch. T to I is I inch. C to 4 is _'^ incli. and 4 to 5 is i inch. B to 29 is 14 of lower shoulder and ^ inch. I to 2 is ^2 inch, and 5 to 6 is Y^ inch. F to L is J^ breast. Draw a line from L to 1'. L to U is the same as S to T. Draw a line from I to F. F 10 V is i^ breast. Y to 28 is I 3/^ inches. V to W is I inch. W to 27 and I to 26 is ^^ inch. 6 to 7 is 2J8, and P to 8 is d'/i, making the two side pieces and back measure l-j, inch more than 3^ of waist measure. Z is J4 inch forward from O. P to W is 1 1 inches, which leaves 6 inches for suppres- sion. This I divide into 5 parts and takeout two- fifths from P to 9, one fifth from 2 to 11, and two- fifths from 12 to 10 .•\pply front length, 13^, from X to dart, and make a sweep as 23 to 24. Apply front length 20 to W and 23 to 13. From button line to it, is 2 inches, and from V to front of dart is ^ inch. I I to 12 is ^8 inch O to P is ZVi and to i8 is 10^4 inches. 21 to 22 is i]^ inches. 20 to 19 is y^ inch. 17 to 18 is 1^ inches. 15 to 16 is \% and 13 t) 14 is ?<( inch. The width of lapel and collar at notch is i'^ inches; a button stand of js inch as per dotted line is left on the button side the same as on a man's vest. 3 is halfway between 2 and Z. NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTINC, LADIES' GARMENTS. 35 PLATE 13. 36 NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. EXPLANATION OF PLATE 14. SINGLE BREASTED JACKET. Draw line from B to O. — : — Draw a line from M to N. Hy proportions from the following measurements: M to R is >i inch. Breast, 34 | Uu^t, 36 | Height, 5 feet 4 inches. ^^ f,, g j^ ^^^^ ^^ ^ ^^ ^ TO DRAFT. D to I is ?a inch. Commence by squaring lines A O and .\ B C. i to 2 is i '4 inches. A to B is 4 inches. 2 to Z is }i inch. B to C is 34; breast. Z to 3 is 2|/i inches. A to L is '/i inch. 3 to 4 is i inch and 4 to 5 is 2?/s inches. L to D is 16 inches, or ^ height. C to K is >i' bieast (on division). D to E is 2 inches and E to F is 4 inches. Square down from K to VV. Square lines C and D. W to 6 is i-)^ inches. C to G is J4 bust. P to Q is }s breast. D to U is yi bust an 40 NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. EXPLANATION OF PLATE 16. DOUBLE BREASTED FROCK. The body of a double breasted frock is drafted the same as an ordinary waist with the exception that the waist seam comes from lyi to 2 inches below the waist line in the back as from A to D, and the same in front as from B to N; in tlie side it is only about one inch below regular waist line as from C to H The lapel is cut as per dotted outline and is about lyi inches wide at waist line and 2}4 inches at center of bust. The skirt is cut on the same principle as the regular dress skirt in the following manner: Draw a straight line from O to T. O to P is i't waist and T to S is the same. P to S is ' .? waist. P to Q is J^ waist. Form square P Q R S wl.icli is J-3 waist measure. Q to X is the same as O to P. Draw a line from P through X to W. Sweep from X to S T, using point P as pivot. X to I is width of back, E to D; make a mark at i, and place sidebody so that wai^t line will lay on sweep line X S, and mark off bottom of sidebody as at 23, then place under-arm piece in same manner and mark off at 3-4. Then place forepart so that point B will lay on point T and mark off as at 5 6, 7 and 4, so whatever the forepart extends below waist line we cut off of skirt below sweej) line X S T. U V is 5 inches below X S. W to 15 is one inch. Shape spring of back skirt from 2 through U to 15. The full length of coat is from 37 to 39 inches. Make length of skirt from 2 to 15, the same as back skirt from D to Z. T to Y is the same as X to W. Sweep from W to Y by P for length. For a close fitting skirt split it open over the hips as at 10 and II, fold skirt over at bottom as indicated by dotted lines 10, 11, 12 and 13. 5 to 8 is I J J inclies and Y to 9 is 2}^ inches. PLATE 16. 42 NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. EXPLANATION OF PLATE 17. DOUBLE-BREASTED COAT. On opposite page is the diagram of a double-breasted long coat, antl the same mode of drafting may be used for a Princess dress. The back is cut on tlie fold of the goods and the two back and sitle seams on each side from the top down are finished with box plaits; the col- lar is a high Queen Anne and the sleeves the melon style; the pockets are placed in the front gore seam as shown in diagram. The draft is produced from proportions by the fol- lowing measures: Waist, - - i6 ! Breast, - - 34 To large part of hip, 24 ] Bust, - - 36 Full length, - 56 { Waist, - - 24 I Hip, - - 40 10 DRAFT. Commence by squaring lines .\ E and A M. A to B is ^2 inch. B to C is '4 breast. C to D is 3 '_• inches. B to K is waist length, to !■' prominent part of hiji, and to G full length of coat. Scpiare lines D, E, F. D to I is yi breast. D to J is }i bust. Square up and down from j. M to P is }6 bust. P to Q is }i breast. A to R is )s breast, plus )i inch. D to L is y'i breast. D to K is %i breast. Stjuare up from L and K. Draw line from C to Q. D to H is }j breast on division. Square down from H to Y. E to 1 is I inch. I to 2 \s yi inch. 2 to 1; is 2 /4 inches. 3 to 4 is I inch. 4 to 5 is 2l^ inches. N to O is I inch. Draw line from J through O to 15. Shape front from | to W up to P. Q to W is ]{ breast. Make width of back from G to 9, 7^ inches. F to X is I inch. Draw a line from 2 through X to 10. 10 to II is 15 inches. Draw line from 4 to 1 2 parallel with line to 10. 12 to 13 is 15 inches. Y to 6 is 2_;4! inches. 6 to 7 is 3 inches. 7 to 8 is I ?4 inches. Make width of lapel from 15 to 16 half the distance there is fr<)m 13 to 15. Make width of lapel at waist length at 17 half the width of forepart from S to o. Lapel at top from 18 to 19 is 2^4 inches. THE COLLAR. Place corner of square at P, letting short arm rest on W. Square down from P to U. Square up and down from U. U to V is I inch. Add y^ of an inch spring in back at T. Shape as represented. NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 4j 44 NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS EXPLANATION OF PLATE 18. SINGLE BREASTED OVERCOAT. Tne accompanying draft is that of a ladies' overcoat. This style of garment is cut to fit medium close in the back, with a loose-fitting front; the side seams have an opening of ten inches up from the bottom; there are vertical side pockets. The front of the coat is finished with a fly. The width of the lapel at notch is 3 inches and the collar at notch is i 3^ inches; the stand of the collar in middle of the back is i>4 and the turn-over 1 3^ inches. The sleeves are cut the same as a gentle- man's overcoat sleeve, with a 2 '4 inch cuff at hand. The draft is produced by proportions from the follow- ing measurements: Waist length, Full length, 16 44 Breast, Waist, Hip, TO DRAIT. 38 42 Square out and down from A. A to B is J4 inch. B to C is 2 inches. C to I) is 1 3 inch more than ' ; breast. B to E is waist length and to E full length. E to W is 5 inches. Square lines C, D, E, W and F. D to M is }{, breast. M to I and M to J is yi breast. I to L and J to K is J^ inch. Square down from M and up from L and K. A to U is }i breast. U to V is ^2 inch. T to 23 is 3s inch. E to I is 3a inch; draw a line from i through W for point 13. I to 2 is }4 inch more than ^ waist. N to 3 and N to 4 is 3/4 inch. 3 to 5 is Yo inch more than ^ waist. F to 14 is i/^ and W to 9 is );( breast. B to 26 is 16 inches (^twice the waist length or half of the etitire height of figure). W to 10 is i^ inches; draw line through 10 and 26 for point 15. 23 to Z is yi breast. X to II is iJ/( inches and 12 to 16 is ^<3 breast. D to G is half of bust measure (19 inches); square down to O and go out from O to P, i inch; draw front center line through G and P up to Q and down to Y. G to H is )^ bust, and Q to R is 's breast. Draw a line from S to T. S to 24 is the same as V to 23. G to 17 and P to 18 is 2^ inches. The collar is drafted the same as for a gentleman's coat. 20 to 21 is I inch and 20 to 22 is i^ inches. NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 45 PLATE 18. 46 NEAV SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. EXPLANATION OF PLATE 19. DOUBLE-BREASTED PALETOT. The draft is produced by proportions from the fol- lowing measurements: Natural waist, Full length, Sleeve length, Breast, 16 56 iS TO DRAFT Bust, 36 Waist, 24 Hip, 40 >^ Square out and down from A. A to B is 4 inches. B to C is 3i( breast. A to D is 3/§ inch. D to E is 16 inches, being }( the entire height for natural waist length. E to F is 4 inches (being ,',. of the entire height). D to G is full length, 56 inches. Square out lines C, D, E, F and G. C to P is }'2 of breast measure. C to Q is )^ of bust measure. Square down through Q to U. U to V is I inch in all cases. Draw front center line through V and Q. C to H is }} and to I is -,; breast. I to J and H to K is y^ inch. Square up lines J and K. C to M is ij breast. Square down from M through N and Z. D to I is J 8 breast. Q to R is ;^ bust. Square up from R to S and draw a line from S to B. L S B will locate point 15 of front shoulder and point L on the back. E to 4 is 14^ inch. 4 to 5 is yi waist (2 inches). 5 to 6 is ^ inch. N to O and O to 9 is i^ inch. 9 to 8 is }■(, waist (2 inches). 6 to 7 is ye breast (2 inches). I to 2 is J^ inch. L to 3 is 5^ inch. 3 to 13 is ytj waist. The width of back from 3 to 13 is the same as from 4 to 5. f-^ inch is taken out between the back and sidebody at point 13. 14 is halfway between 13 and M. J to 12 is ,■$ breast. :y^ inch is taken out at point 12. O to 00 is I inch. 00 to 10 is 3^ inches. ID to 1 1 is I J4 inches. F to Y is ,'. breast. Draw a line from 5 tlirough point Y for points 32 and ^^T,, and draw a line from point 7 through 25 for point 34. Z to 26 and 27 is ,V hip. 27 to 29 is A hip. G to 28 and G to 38 is '4 bust. T to 16 is ^S breast. 16 to 40 is yi inch. 40 to 38 is 4^ inches. Q to 37, V to 36, and 35 to 41 is 4^^ inches. II to 21 is I inch. The pocket opening is from 21 to 22, which is the same distance as from 20 to 23. The sidebody extending down the lower portions forms into a flap, which is made to go in or out of the pocket. The collar is drafted by S(|uaring down from T to 17, ys breast. Make distance from 17 to 18 ^ of an inch less than neck gorge, and stretch the lower edge of collar from 17 to 18. If lower edge of collar cannot be stretched out }^ of an inch on each side, it is best to cut the under collar through as per dotted line, adding .'h of an inch spring at each seam, as shown by dotted lines. 1 7 to 39 and 18 to 19 is 4 inches, orwhateversize desired. NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 47 PLATE 19. 26 I 27 29 28 48 NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. EXPLANATION OF PLATE 20. BOX OVERCOAT The general cut and make is the same as a gentle- man's box overcoat. The front is finished with a fly and closes with holes and five buttons. The width of lapel and collar at notch is 2 inches, the stand of the collar in center of back is 1 '^^ and the turn over 1^4 inches. The corners are all rounded off. There are two out- side circular side pockets with ample flap to go out or in. The ticket pocket is placed in the inside of the right hand side pocket. There are two inside breast pockets. The vents in the side seams are 8^ inches long. The sleeves are cut the same as for a gentleman's coat and finished at hantl with a cuff 2 '4 inches high with round corners. The draft is produced by proportions from the fol- lowing measurements: Waist length. 16 Breast, 34 Full length, M Bust, 36 Sleeve length. i&% Hips, 40 > TO D RAFT. Square out and down from A. A to B is y, inch. B to C is y^ breast. C to D is 3 I/, inches. B to E is natural waist length, i6 inches, and to G 37 inches, full length of coat. E to F is 8 inches (half of waist length). Square lines D, E, F and G. D to H is half of bust measure (18 inches). H to I is I inch for ease. Square up and down from I. J to 20 is I inch. Draw a line through I and 20. K to M is ^ bust. Draw a line from M to C. K to L is 1-^ breast. D to N is y'i and D to O is JS breast. N to P and O to Q is J^ inch. Square up and down from P and Q. E to V is J^ inch. Draw center line of back from A through V. .A to S is J^ breast. R to T is J^ inch. M to U is the same as S to T. The width of back from W to Z is obtained by squaring down from P. Hollow side seam ^ inch at the waist line as from 4 to 7. P to 3 is (*2 breast. Z to Y is 4 inches, or the lower hip measure may be taken and applied from W to Z and X to Y, one- half of the lower hip (in this case the lower hip is 43) and 5 inches, (or whatever is wanted for full- ness). Draw a line from 3 through point Y and hollow side seam }^ inch at waist line, as from 5 to 6. P to I is )^ breast and Q to 2 is "4 inch. I to 12 and 20 to II is 2 inches To locate the pocket square down from Q to point 16, which is 2 inches below waist line 15. NEW SUPERLATIVK SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' (lARMKN'TS. O PLATE 20. so NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. EXPLANATION OF PLATE 21. RAGLAN OVERCOAT. This garment is made e.\actly the same as a gentle- man's Raglan; the center of back is without a seam, and there are vents in the sides extending 4 inches up to 18 and 19. The length averages 22 to 24 inches for a figure 5 feet 4 inches high. The draft is produced by proportions from the following measures: Breast, 34 | Bust, 36 | Height, 5 ft. 4 inches. TO URAFT. S([uare out and down from .A. A to B is 2.;« inches. 15 to C is )i bust. A to N is .'K inch. N to D is 16 inches ( '4 of entire height). D to E is 8 inches ( '» of entire height). Square lines B, C, D and E. C to F is j4 and C to G is ; j breast. F to T is ^s inch and G to 2 is >4 inch. Square up and down from i and 2. .•\ to O is Js breast. Draw a line from O to P. P to Q is -'8 inch and O to R is V^ inch. U to 7 is .-a inch and V to 8 is i }^ inches. 3 is halfway between N and C. Draw a line from 2 to 3. C to H is }^ breast and C to I is >^ bust. J is halfway between H and I. J to K is ys bust. Square up to L. L to M is ys breast. Draw a line from M to P. M to S is the same as R to Q. U to 6 is }2 inch. Draw a line from T through 6 for spring. L to /, is '<( inch more than }'& breast. Square down from I to W. W to X is I inch. Draw a line from I through X to Y. Y to 10 is }i inch. I to II and X to 12 is 2j^ inches. The sleeve for this coat is Plate 32 on page 64. NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CLJTIING LADIES' GARMENTS. S' PLATE 21. 52 NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. EXPLANATION OF PLATE 22. RAGLAN ULSTER. This garment is made of regular gentlemen's lambs' wool overcoating. The front of the garment is cut double-breasted and closes with six buttons. The back has a center seam as far as the natural waist and from the waist down there is a reverse box plait in the center of back and regular coat plait on the side seams from the waist down. The storm collar is cut in three pieces and attached to the back, forepart and sleeve, as per illustrations on the diagram. There are outside side-pockets with flaps to go in and out. The garment is close fitting in the back and sides at waist anil traces the form slightly at the waist line in front. The draft is produced in the following manner from the following measurtnu nts: Upper shoulder, - -3/4 I Breast, - 34 Lower shoulder, - 22^ Bust, - 36 Natural waist length, - 16 Waist, - 24 Full length, - 50 Hip, - 4°^^ Under arm length, - &'_^ Neck. - 15 Sleeve length, - 18 TO 1)U.\I I'. Scjuare out and down from A. A to B is i'3 inch. B to D is j i of upper shoulder measure. B to E is natural waist and to G full length of coat. E to F is 8 inches (half of waist length). D to C is }i bust (on square). Square lines C, D, F and G. D to H is half of breast and 1) to J is half of bust measure. I is halfway between H anil J. I to O is }8 bust. Square up from O to 1' and draw a line from 1' to J. Square down from J to K. K to L is one inch. Draw a line from J through L for front center line. D to U is J4 and D to T is }i of lower shoulder measure. T to 7 is }2 inch and U to 8 is j.; inch. Square up lines 7 and 8. A to R is 's breast. Draw a line from R to S. R to 18 is 14 inch. P to Q is i}j breast. Draw a line from Q to S. Q to 19 is the same as 18 to S. S to I is 2}( inches. E to 3 is 2 inches. G to 27 is 5-4 breast. D to V is yi breast. Square down from V through W X to Y. 3 to 4 is ?4 inch and 4 to 5 is 4 inches. Y to 28 is }-6 breast. 28 to 29 is }4 breast measure (or go in from K to 31 I'j breast and draw a line from 31 through point F for run of spring 1. X to 13 is I inch. Draw a line from 13 to G. W to 6 is I J- inches. J to 22 is 4}^ inches. L to 23 is 3^ inches. M to 24 and N to 25 is 4 inches. N to 26 and M to i i is 4 inches. L to 9 is 3^^ inches and 9 to 10 is i}^ inches. 7 to 14 is J 3 breast. From 16 to front of collar is 3,^ inch and i inch V is taken out from end of gorge to 20. A line drawn from point 7 through 20 will give run of lapel, and a line drawn from T through end of neck gorge will give run of collar. 20 to 2 I is 5^ inches. The collar being attached to the coat, it is drafted as follows: Stjuare up from t8 and make the height of collar accord- ing to style of fancy; in this draft the height of col- lar is 3i;j inches, the width of top edge of collar at the back is '4 breast. Q to 15 is I inch. Square up from 15 and mark off height of collar, ^i.^ inches. The shaded portion of back and front shoulder is cut oti and added to the sleeve, so as to form the raglan effect. The portion of the collar attached to the forepart must be shaped with the iron so as to have it fit up to the neck. Stretch forepart at 15 and 16 and shrink it in the middle so as to give it the proper curve; unless this can be done, the collar and gorge must be cut apart as per broken lines between 15 and 16. The sleeve for this coat is Plate 23 on page 65. NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUPTINC. LADIES' GARMENTS. 53 PLATE 22. 54 NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. EXPLANATION OF PLATE 23. DOUBLE BREASTED FUR JACKET. The draft is produced from the following measures by the regular proportionate method: Height, 5 feet 4 inches. reast, 36 Sleeve length, 18 Hip, 42 ust, 38 Waist, 26 TO DRAFT. Neck, 16 Square out and down from A. A to B is }i inch. B to C is 2}( inches. C to D is j/i breast and > .; inch. B to E is 16 inches (one-fourth of height). E to F is 6 inches. Square lines C, D, E and F. D to G is J/3 and to H y-i of breast. G to J and H to I is }4 inch. Square up from I and J. D to M is 1 3 of bust measure (19 inches). M to N is I inch for ease. N to R is j4 inch more than 34^ bust. Square up to S and draw a line from S to 32. A to V is ^ breast and V to 3 i is '/, inch. 32 to 33 is Ys inch. S to 30 is the same as 31 to t;;^. O to 1' is I inch. Draw a line from P through N for point Q. Q to U is ys breast. U to T is J4 inch and U to 21 is ^ inch. 21 to 22 is 5 inches. N to 20 is 4 '4 and 17 to 1 8 is 3 J^ inches. E to I is -'b inch. I to 2 is I V. inches and 2 to is % inch. 3 to 4 and L to 5 is 2 } j inches. 14 to 13 is I inch and 16 to 15 is i }{ inches. L to 34 is I J^ inches. 34 to 6 is 2^ inches and 6 to 7 is i^ inches. 10 to II is ^ inch. R to 8 is i^ inches and 8 to 9 is i^ inches. K to 35 is 3^ inch. U to 38 is 4}^ inches. 3^ to 36 is i^, and }i inch is taken out between side- body and back at 36. Point 37 is halfway between 36 and 35. The collar is drafted by making a square as from 23 to 24, and 23 to T. 23 to 24 is }{ and 23 to T is yj neck. Shape from 24 to T, and divide collar into three parts as at 25 and 26, where the pieces 27 and 28 are inserted, each piece is ^ inch wide and ij^ inches high. Square up from 24 to 29 by 25 and add ^4 inch spring from 29. The width of the collar is usually 4}^ inches all around. The sleeve is Plate 24 on page 56. NEW SUFKRLATIVK SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 55 PLATE 23. 56 NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. EXPLANATION OF SLEEVES PLATE 24. SLEEVES. The regular sleeve is produced from the measure of the armscye, which is as follows: Width at elbow, Width at hand, 12 8 Length of sleeve to elbow, Sji Full length of sleeve, 17 Scye, - - - - 16 Add I inch to scye 16, making it 17 for drafting power. TO DRAKT. Square out and down from A. A to B is A and B to C is ,\ breast. A to E is ;4 breast. E to D is J4 inch. D to L is full length of sleeve (18 inches). M is halfway between D and L. L to O is 134; and M to N is i inch. E to F is yz breast. H is halfway between E and F. Square up and down from H and draw a line from E to J. G to K and G to Y is ji breast. Y to Z is '4 inch. Square out from M to P. Draw a line from E to N and N to O. Square out from N to Q by O. X is halfway between P and Q. N to X is }i inch more than }'} breast. O to R is ■/< inch less than j/} breast. Lay corner of square at R and square (), R, S. D to U, M to N and O to S is >2 inch. D to V, N to W and O to T is 14 inch. The sleeve is finished with a cuff 2I4 inches high. Shape as represented. NEW SUPKRI-ATIVH SYSTKM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. EXPLANATION OF SLEEVES PLATE 25. REGULAR OVERCOAT SLEEVE. The sleeve is drafted by the jjroportion < inch. L lo R, K to () and H to Z is the same. D to W is one inch. Shape undersleeve as per diagram. This will produce a close fitting sleeve and tlie extra fullness of top sleeve is obtained in the following manner: Go out from N to O 1 '4' inches and shape upper sleeve as from () to A. Sweep from .\ through G to X, using point I'^ as ])ivot. W to Y is 2 inches. Shape under sleeve from Y to T and sweep from Y to X by T. Where the two sweeps meet at X is the height and width of top sleeve. In sewing the sleeve together, the under sleeve cm the inseam goes on even from M to about 4 inches uj), then a little full from this point up to the top, on the outside the over sleeve should be held a little full over the elbow, and from then up the under sleeve should go on a little full to the top sleeve. Then by pressing the seams the sleeve will get into its natural and good shape without any other stretching or shrinking. The top of the sleeve is shirred in. 64 NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. SLEEVE FOR RAGLAN COAT. PLATE 32. THE RAGLAN SLEEVE. PRODUCF.D I RO.M THE REOULAR SLEEVE. Square out and down from A. A to B is ,'2 and A to C is j^ breast. C to D is yi inch. Square lines B, C and I). B to E is }4 inch less than y', breast (i6 on halves). F is halfway between H and E. Scjuare up from F to G and down to H. Draw a line from G to E. Shape top sleeve from B through G to E. B to W is '(i and B to X is }i breast. J to K is 18 inches, length of sleeve. L is halfway between J and K. Sipiare out from L. L to N is one inch and K to P is one inch. Lay corner of square at N, let long arm rest on P, and scjuare out from N to O. N to V is y'i breast and V is halfway between lines O and 9. P to U is I4 breast; lay corner of square at U, lay short arm of square on 1' and long arm on V and square V, U, P. P to Q and J to R is ji inch. P to T and J to S is J^ inch. I is halfway between F and H. This completes the regular sleeve. The Raglan sleeve is drafted in the following man- ner: The shaded portion on coat draft, Plate 51, represents the part that is cut oft the shoulder and added to the sleeve. M to 17 is yi inch. Point 16 is according to style and fancy. Cut off front shoulder as per shaded por- tion. Cut off shaded portion of the back and lay the pieces aside. The back notch for sleeve is at point 13 and the front notch, point 15, is ^ inch up from point 2. Measure front of shoulder from 15 through 16 up to M and apply same distance with 1)4 inches added for fullness on to the regular sleeve. Draft from E to point 4, and sweep back to point 5, then measure back of coat from 13 through 14 up to point R. Apply this distance with ^'i inch added for fullness from B to 3 on sleeve draft and sweep from 3 to 5. The intersection of these two sweeps will locate point 5, which is the top of sleeve. Ne.xt take the shaded portion cut from shoulder and shape top of sleeve, adding to the sleeve the same amount that has been cut off from the front shoulder. The undersleeve remains the same as for a regular coat. Point B on sleeve goes to point B on back, and point E on sleeve goes to 15 on coat. S to 6 on sleeve is the same as M to 17 on coat. Shape as represented and add seams all over. NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. EXPLANATION OF SLEEVES PLATE 33. SLEEVE FOR RAGLAN ULSTER ON l'A(,K 53. Square out and down from A. A to B is 14 and A to C is J4 breast. C to 1) is Jj inch. Square lines H, C and D. B to l") is ^{. inch less than }!■ breast. F is halfway between B and V.. Stiuare u]i from F to G and down to H. Draw a line from G to 1'. Shape top sleeve from B through G to E. B to W is '6 and B to X is ' ^ breast. J to K is 18 inches, length of sleeve. I, is halfway between J and K. Scjuare out from I,. I, to N is I incli and K to P is i inch. Lay corner of square at N, let long arm rest on V, and Eiiuare out from N to O. N to \' IS 3i breast and V is halfway between lines O and 9. I' to U is '4 breast; lay corner of square at U, lay short arm of square on P and long arm on V and square V, U, P. P to Q and J to R is '_. inch. P to T and J to S is j- inch. I is halfway Ijetween F and H. This completes the oriiinary sleeve. /, is halfway between .\ and 7. Draw a line from F through Z up to V ; then take the pieces cut off the shoulders (as indicated by the shaded portion) and place them on top of sleevehead so that the shoulder points will meet on line at Y; shape sleeve from 1, hollow out •; inch as at 4, gradually running out to point at B; then shape front of sleeve from 2, hollow 3» inch as at 5, running line gradually into the top sleeve; this completes the raglan sleeve. Ne.xt add the sidepart of collar to sleeve by squaring up from i to 5, and mark off .3^ inches; 5 to 6 is ye breast; draw a red line from 2 to 6, and mark off 3^4 inches; shape as represented and the sleeve is completed. Add seams all over when cutting the goods. 66 NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. EXPLANATION OF PLATE 34. THE FOUNDATION SKIRT. HAHIT BACK.. The skirt is cut in one piece, close-fitting, without any plaits in the back, and may be made up plain with a seam in middle of the back or front, or on the right side in front as per dotted line LT T. The accompany- ing diagram is only intended for a foundation draft and the cutter can change the location of seams to suit style and fancy. The draft is produced from the following measures. Waist, Length of skirt, 23 I Hip (measure taken 40 I 5 in. below waist), 38 TO DRAFT. Square out and down from .'\. A to C is 5 inches (^.'s of entire length). A to B is 40 inches full length. Square out from C to D and from B to F. C to D is yi hip (19 on halves). B to F is J^ of hip (19 inches). Sweep up from F to G by B and from D to E by C, lay long stick so that it touches sweeps as at J and G, and draw line I J 11. Point I is halfway between A and H: lay long arm of sipiare alongside line J H, and slide sq\iare up till the short arm touches point i, then square out from I to locate point H, then measure down from H to I full length, 40 inches, and square back from I to X. Square out from I to M, and mark off 19 inches (half of hi]) measure). Square out from H to 2. Point J is 5 inches down from H. Square out from J to K. J to K is ]-2 hip (19 on halves). Sweep up from K to R by J. Sweep up from M to N by I; lay long stick so it touches outside of sweeps and draw line through N and L. Point 2 is halfway between points H and O, lay long arm of square alongsitle line N O, and slide square up till short arm touches point 2, and square out from 2 to locate point O. O to P is length, 40 inches. Square forward from P to Y. O to Q is ly, inches. Square forward from O to R, and where this line crosses sweep at 7 is the top of back; lay end of yard and a quarter stick at 7, let it cross line K O Q, 5 inches down from 7 as at L, and draw back center line from 7 through L to S. 7 to S is 41 inches, which is one inch more than the front length. Point 8 is y^ inch up from P. Shajje bottom from B through I and 8 to S. li to T is yi hip (19 on two-thirds). A to 3 is '6 waist (23 on sixths) and 3 to W is i inch. Draw a line from W to T. W to 4 is ?4 inch. 4 to 5 is y inch more than 'g waist, and 7 to 6 is ^ inch more than y waist; this extra half inch will make the skirt one inch wider than the waist meas- ure; this extra amount is fulled onto the waistband. This draft is laid out full length for a walking skirt; shorten pattern at bottom two to three inches, ac- cording to style and fancy. The skirt is usually stitched five to six rows, around the bottom, half inch apart, and if the opening is in center of front or on the side the stitching extends up to the waist; if the seam is in center of the back there is a stitching on each side of the seam, and the opening of the skirt is usually on the right side, as from W ex- tending down 8 inches through U. NEW SUPP:RLATIVE system of cutting LADIES' GARMENTS. PLATE 34. 68 NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. EXPLANATION OF PLATE 35. THREE-GORED COSTUME SKIRT. The draft is produced from the following measures in the following manner: Front length, Side length, Back, 41 4i>^ Waist, Hip, 24 40 42 TO DRAFT. Square out and down from A. A to B is front length, 41 inches. A to C is s}i inches, being one-eighth of entire length. Square out from B and C. C to D is }( of hip measure 1 20 on halves). B to F is }i of hip measure (20 inches). Sweep up from F by B, and from D by C and lay yard- stick so that it strikes outer edges of sweep as at E and G, and draw a line as from K to J; divide distance from A to H, and make a mark as at I. Lay long arm of square on line G E and slide square up till short arm strikes point I, then square across from I to J; turn square over and square out from J to R. J to L is ;8 of front length (s^s inches). Square out from L to M. L to M is '4 of hip measure (20 on halves). Sweep up from M, by using point L as pivot. J to K is front length (41 inches). Square out each way from K. K to O is 14 hip measure (20 inches). Sweep up from O by K, lay long stick on outer edges of sweep and draw a line through (^ and N. S is halfway between J and R. Lay long arm of square on line Q N, and slide square up until short arm lies on point S, and square out from S to locate point T. T to U is 1J2 inches. Draw a line from U to J. T to P is front length (41 inches). Square out both ways from P. P to W is ^4 hip measure (20 on halves). Sweep up from W to X by P, and draw a line from V through sweep at X. Points I and 4 are }< inch above line I J, and point 5 is ?4 inch above line J S; point V is located where sweep line M N crosses line J U. P to 13 is y^ inch. Sweep from 13 through Z to 7 by using point U as pivot. Z to 7 is 3 inches or whatever is wanted for e.xtra full- ness at bottom. 9 to 10 is -'4 inch. Point Y is at intersection of lines Q U and Z V. Shape back gore from Y through 10 to 7. The back of the skirt is finished with a bo.x pleat 2 inches wide at waist. V to 1 1 is 2 inches and Z to 8 is (half hip) 10 inches. Sweep from Z to 8 by point T. Line 8 t i is cut on the fold when cutting the cloth. A to I is y'i waist; i to 2 is i inch, and 2 to 4 is ?4' inch. K to 3 is yi the distance from B to K. Draw a line from 2 to 3, and shape frontage from i to 20, and side gore from 4 to 20. 4 to 5 is ' ,i waist plus )( inch. V to 5 is yi waist plus }{ inch. Cut out V as from 5 to 6. This will make the waist one inch wider than actual measure, skirt to be fulled on to the band '4' inch between 4 and 5 and }l inch between 6 and V. Incuttingskirtswith a flounce at bottom, the pattern is produced from this same foundation draft. Cut pattern through as per broken lines from i through 20, 21, 19, 18, 15, 16 to 14. These points are according to taste and fancy. In this case the distance from Z to 14 and 17 to 16 is 18 inches; the distance from B to 17 is 28 inches, or the width of the goods; 16 to 17 is a seam. In order to produce a bell bottom effect split the pat- tern through from 18 to 23 and from 19 to 22, and insert from yj to i inch at 22, and from i to i>4 inches at 23, running out to nothing at 18 and 19. The same method may be employed in producing bell at the bot- tom in the back, or go up from 14 to 25 two inches, reduce same amount from length at bottom and add bell as at 24. Add seams all over when cutting the goods. NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OV CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 69 PLATE 35. NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. EXPLANATION OF PLATE 36. FIVE GORED SKIRT. P to Q is front length, 41 inches. P to S is T inch, and F to line 6 is ji inch. Shape top This skirt.is cut in five gores, with an inverted plait ^j ^^,^i^^ f^^,„^ ^ through 6 to L. in back. Draft is produced from following measures: 3^^^,.^^^ ^^^ f^,,,^^ ,_, (^, j, ^^^^ ^^^^^^^ ^,|, j^^,,, ^ ^^ y Front length, 41 | Waist, 24 bv Side length, 4i;-' Hip, 40}. Q to R is '4 of hip I20J4 «" halves ). Back length, 4^ ■ S to W is js of front length (20^4; on fourths). Draw TO DRAFT. a line from V through W to U. Tiiis line is the Square out and down from .\. back center of the skirt. U to V is 42 inches. A to B is }s of front length (20-V4 on ,'4)- U to 9 is 2 inches, and V to 7 is 4 inches. A to C is 4}4 inches. Square out from B and C. 7 to 8 is i ^4 inches. B to D is 34 of liip measure (20J4' on halves). This portion is for the plait, which is turned under, C to E is yi of hip measure (2o'4' inches). Swee[) up and the double lines bounded by 9-14 and 11-12 from D to K by B, and from K to H by C. represent the underneath plait. Lay long stick so it will touch sweeps K and H and Q to 12 and 8 to 1 1 is 2 yi inches. draw line H F. I is halfways between C and H. G is halfway between A and M. I to Z is 2 inches. Lay long arm of square on line K M and slide up X is halfway between H and Q. till short arm strikes point G and square across X to Y is i inch. from G for point, then reverse scpiare and sijuare Divide the waist measure into five parts and we have out from F to N. 4? inches for each part, or it is perhaps easier to use F to H is front length, 41 inches. the following method: Squire back from H to I and out from li to J. Half of waist measure is 12 inches. F" to K is 'a length (20^ on J.^). A to i is 2 inches. Square out from K to L. i to 2 is yi inch, and 2 to 3 is yi inch. K to L is '4 of hip measure fao'^ on halves). Draw a line from 2 to Z and hollow out yi inch each H to J is yi of hip measure (20 '^ inches). way from 16. Sweep from L to N by K. and from J to Q by H. U to 5 is 5 inches, and 3 to 4 is 5 inches. Lay stick on sweep lines Q and N and draw line. 5 to 6 is yj, the distance from 5 to 4. O is halfway between F' and N. Draw a line from 6 to V, and hollow side and back Lay long arm of square on line L N and slide up till gore y^ incli each way from 15. short arm strikes point O, and square out from O Shape as represented and add seams when cutting to point P. the cloth. NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUITINC EAI)Ii;S' CARMI'-NTS. PLATE 36. 72 NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. EXPLANATION OF PLATE 37. SIX GORED SKIRT. The accompanying skirt is cut in six gores. The back gore, or rather the back plait, is laid so it forms a box plait in middle of back, and folding the side gores under will make the back finish with two reverse box plaits, as shown by illustration accompanying diagram. The draft is produced from the following measures: Front length. Side length, Hack length. 41 42 Waist, Hip, 24 40 Tt) DRAFT. Square out and down from A. A to B is front length, 41 inches. A to C is 5 '3 inches (Js of length). Square out from C. C to E is ^'2 inch more than 5{> hip (2 i on halves). (' to D is yi inch more than yi hip (21 on halves). Draw a line from D through L. ' K to F is ^'<5 inch more than J^ hip ( 2 1 on halves). A to G is half of hip measure (20 inches). Draw a line from G through F to J. F to K is 51,8 inches. Square back from K to L. Square out both ways from G. G to H is 14 inch. Sweep from A to M by H for run of waist line. G to I is '/^ inch. Sweep from B through R, Q, J, X to Z, using point I as pivot. C to is ' ; the distance from C to E. Draw a line from (} through O, which line will locate width of front gore. F to N is 2 inches. Draw a line from J through N to V. This line will be at the side plait. P is halfway between O and N. G to 27 is }{ hip (20 on }^). Draw a line from 27 through P to Q. Points S and T are up from bottom yi of entire length of skirt. J'4 inch is hollowed out on each side of S and T. In some instances the back gores are hollowed out at point U, to give the skirt a more bell effect at bottom. The waist measure, 24 inches, is divided into six parts, making each part 4 inches. A to 2 is 2 's inches. I to 3 is y^ inch. 3 to 4 is 4^8 inches. 4 to 6 is ^ inch. 6 to 7 is 4 ' 8 inches. The extra '3 inch added to each gore is for fullness to be held in between the seams. 7 to 10 is 2 inches, and J to 9 is 5 inches for plait, which part is folded back so that 9 la)s on 12 — 25 on 26. The fold is on line J U N 7. The full width of the back plait extends from 12 to 20 and II to 21. Line Y Z is in the center of plait. V to 8 is 2 inches, ^ D. ered with a strap and buttons as indicated. The open- to I is J4 hip. ings are in the sides and are covered with slashes seven '^ '« ^ is yi and S to F will be '5 hip. inches long, which have Hve buttons; the openings are *^^ '^ \^^\i'«iy between K and H. closed with glove-fasteners. "^^^^' ^ ''"^ from G through F, which gives the actual The draft is produceil from proportions in the fol- '^^'"'''^ °^ ^'^"■'• lowing manner. The measures are: '^^^^^ ^ "''« ^--^"^ J '^^^"gh T and a line from G to S. A to I is I'i waist. Front length from waist to lloor, 40 inches. \^ to 4 is 5<3 waist. Waist, 24. Hip, 40. V to 2 is '« inch and 2 to 3 is >S waist. .Apply length of skirt through A to C, which should be 2 inches more than }i of the entire length shorter Draw a line as from A to C and extend it up to H. than the ordinary length, in this case 7 inches less A to H is 1-2 the length of skirt, 20 inches. than 40, making the length of the skirt 2,:^ inches. H to J is f2 hip. Sweej) from C to N, using point G as a pivot. Siveep by J from A through V, K, U to 1. for top of L to W is 2 inches for plait. waist. Draw a line from R, which is halfway between L and A to B is 5 inches (j4 of full length of skirt). G to O, and sweep from N to O by R. Square out from B to D. A waistband )/, inch wide (usually a heavy silk ribbon) B to D is >2 inch more than '4' of hip measure (use 21 will finish the top, and the bottom is faced with on halves). the same goods to about 4 to 5 inches high and B to E is the same (21 on halves). furnished with several rows of stitching. TO DRAKI". NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 75 PLATE 38. // ej. 76 NEW SUPERLATIVP: system of cutting LADIES' GARMENTS. EXPLANATION OF PLATE 39. FANCY SKIRT. Front length, 41 Waist, Side length, 41 }i Hip, Back length. 42 24 42 The skirt is drafted with a separate yoke in the back and closes with 7 buttons on each side on the back plaits. In order to draft this it is necessary to first produce the top part or yoke, which is done in the following manner: TO DRAFT THE YOKE. First, form a sipiare as at Aa. Aa to I is 8 inches, Ji of waist measure. Aa to Ab is I's waist. Sweep from 1 to 2 by An. Then go down from i to 3, s'/s inches, which is ^3 of skirt length, and sweep from 3 to 4. 2 to 5 and 4 to 6 is i\ waist. 8 is halfway between i and 5. 9 is halfway between 3 and 6, and 10 is halfway between 3 and 9. 6 to 7 is I '4 inches. Cut through from 7 to 8 and 10, and from 8 to 9, and lay pieces aside tilt skirt is drafted. TO DRAKI' THE SKIRT. Square out and down from A. A to B is 5 ';i inches (/s of length). .\ to C is 41 inches, front length. Square out from B and C. B to D is Jj of hip (21 on halves). Sweep up to H. C to E is I2 of hip measure, 21 inches. Sweep up to I, and draw a line from 1 through H, and locate point F by laying long arm of square along side line 1 H and slide square up till short arm touches point G, which is halfway between F and A. Then square out from F to M, and go down from F to I the front length, 41 inches, and si|uare out each way from I F to H is the same as.V to B, and square out from H to K. H to K is 'j hip on division. S^veep up to Q. I to J is half of hip measure, 21 inches. Sweep up from J to N, and draw a line from N through O to L. Lay long arm alongside line N Q and slide it up till short arm strikes on point M, which is halfway between F and L. Apply front length, 41 inches, from L to U, and square out each way, and go out from N to O, 21 inches, and sweep up as to line P, then draw a line from P to L, and sweep from U to P by L. 20 is halfway between N and P. L to (J is the same as A to B. Draw a line from 20 through O and locate point X. As the sides and back arc longer than the front, add to side as from F to 23, }4 inch, and from 26 to 25, J-4 inch, according to measure. Q to R is },'2 hip on division. Sweep up from R to S, and sciuare out from L to T. Make same distance from P to U as it is from L to T, and draw a line from U through S to T. T to Y is I inch, which is the extra back length. Draw a line from X to Y. Take front piece of yoke and lay it on point i on H and point 3 on B, and mark off top of front gore. 15 is halfway between C and I and 15 to 16 is i "^ inches Draw a line from yoke to 16. 11 is y'i of skirt length up from 16. I to 19 is '6 of skirt length, and i to 17 is ts of skirt length, and 17 to 12 is ,\ of skirt length. Shape front gore from i 1 through 13-19 to 12 and side gore from 11 through 14 to L When these are sewed together it will produce a bell bottom. The backpart of yoke is stitched on as per illustrations. Lay the two side pieces of yoke on to top of skirt and shape side seam and top. N to Z is 3J4 inches. Z to 27 is one-fifth of length. 27 to 28 is J4 and 27 to 29 is i inch. Points 21, 22, 23 and 24 have been located by the yoke; all these points meet on the side of hip at waist. For convenience in cutting the cloth a seam may be cut through as from L to W. U to V is 4 inches. The opening is in center of back and extends down about S inches, and is closed with glove fasteners under- neath. The two rows of buttons on the outside are only as ornaments. NKW SUPERLA'PIVK SYSTEM Ol" CUTTING LADIES' GARMI'.NTS. 77 PLATE 39. NKW SUPERIATIVE SYSTEM OF CUT TING LADIES' GARMENTS. EXPLANATION OF PLATE 40. FIVE GORED SKIRT WITH FLOUNCE. Make a siveep as from T up to N, using point L as j)ivot. I-ay the yard stick on sweep P R Q and T The draft is produced from the following measure- N, then place the siniare along yard s'ick and slide' luents: it up or down until the arm crosses line at point S, Front length. - 40 Waist, - - 24 which is halfway between points I. and T; then re- Side length, - i }'2 Hip, - - 40 verse the square and slide it up until the arm will Back lenotli, 40 '2 ' '^y on point J; then square across from J to locate point Q. TO DRAKr. R is halfway between Q and P. Square out and. down from .\. Apply front length of skirt, 40 inches, from R to T and A to B is 5 inches, to C full length, 40 inches. shape the bottom of skirt as illustrated in diagram. Square out lines B and C. A to 2 is yi waist on division. B to U is '/2 of hip measure, 20 inches. H to 3 and M to 5 is j,s waist plus 3,4 inch, making the E is halfway between B and D. width from 3 to 5, }^ waist plus I'/i inches. If C to F is ^2 hip, 20 inches. the goods cannot be pressed in enough to produce Draw a line from F through E to M. the e.xtra pocket or fullness over the hip a small V 9 is halfway between A and M. may be taken out at M, but with good tailoring Lay long arm of square online E M and slide up the this is not necessary. square until the short arm crosses square line at 9. The front gore from C to Y is 14 inches. Square back from 9 anti locate the height at point M, Point Z is halfway between T" and Y. then tip the square over and draw line from M to O. As the side and back lengths are '/j inch more than Measure down from M to H length, 40 inches, and the front length, points 2, 3, 5, 6, 7 and 8 are yi square out to point K, which is one-half of hip inch above construction lines. from F, 20 inches. Sweep up from D to I and sipiare out from E to I, then draw a line from K through I to J. In cutting skirts with a flounce it is well to leave out is halfway between M and J. the seam from 9 to 10, and only take out a V as at 9. Lay long arm of square on line I J and slide the square The flounce reaches up to the middle of the skirt as at up until the short arm touches point O, and square point U V. across from O for height of point J, then tip the U to X is t inch. C to Y dotted line is 2 inches. square over and square out from J to P. 10 to \V is the same as 10 to V and W is 2 inches above 1 to P is 8 inches or as much more as is wanted for half the distance from V to R. W to Z dotted line fullness. is the same as V to T and 12 to 13 is the same as Sweep up from P to Q by O, apply front length, 40 1 1 to L. inches, from J to L, and square out from L to S. The flounce should if possible have no seam only as at L to T is yi of hip plus 4 inches, or as much more as 12 13 and in the back. is wanted for width around the bottom. Shape as represented. THE FLOUNCE. NEW SUPF.RI.ATIVK SVSrKM OF CUrilNG LADIES' GARMENTS. PLATE 40. 79 ^ Y ■So NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. EXPLANATION OF PLATE 41. SEVEN GORED SKIRT. Seven-gored skirt from the following measurements: Front length, 40 Side length, 4oJ'2 Hip, 38 Back length, 40J2 Waist, 25 Width around bottom, 4 yards 18 inches. 10 DR.M'T. Square out and down from .A. A to B is 5 inches, to (" is 40 inches. Square out lines B and ('. B to D is }(: of hip measure. E is halfway between B and D. C to F is j/i hip measure. Draw a line from F through E to G. 9 is halfway between A and G. Lay long arm of square on line E G and slide up until short arm crosses 9, and locale point G: measure down from G to H, front length 40 inches. Square out from H to K. H to K is 14 hip measure. Sweep up from D to I, and siiuare out from E to I, then draw a line from K through I to I. 6 is halfway between G and J. Lay long arm of square parallel with line L I, and slide scpiare up until short arm crosses 6, and locate point J, then apply front length, 40 inches, from J to L, and square out from L to S. (Points A, B. C, and J, I, L, hold good in all skirts, no matter what width is desired at bottom or how much extra goods is wanted for pleats or gathers in the back.) Measure distance from C to L and add from L to M to make up width at bottom, and make a sweep at M, using i)oint L as pivot. Square out from J to P. J to P is 6 inches and J to O is 12 inches or whatever is wanted for pleats. Make a sweep at P and O, using point J as pivot. N is halfway between L and M, and S is halfway be- tween L and N. Lay yardstick on sweeps P, Q and M, then place square alongside yardstick so that long arm will strike point S, and square out for point N wherever it crosses sweeps, then reverse the square so that long arm will lay on line N Q, and slide up till arm of square strikes J, and stjuare from J to Q, turn square over and square out to where line crosses sweep at O. R is halfway between P and Q- .■\pply front length, 40 inches, from R to T and from O to M. Make front gore from C to Y, 12 inches. Y to Z is 26 inches. / to T is 26 inches. Draw a line from Y to 9. .•\ to 2 is J 3 waist on division. G to 4 and G to 5 is ^ inch, taken out in a V. Split skirt through from 6 to Z. 7 is halfway between J and Q. Split through from 7 to T. The opening is made in the left side at 6. The distance from 8 to 6 is gathered or pleated in, so as to make the correct size of waist. The sides and back being j4 inch longer than front the sides and back are raised that amoiint above con- struction lines. Add seams when cutting the goods. NEW SUPER!,. VnVF-; SYSTEM OK CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. PLATE 41. 82 NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. EXPLANATION OF PLATE 42. DIVIDED BICYCLE SKIRT. 'I'he divided skirt is drafted on tlie same principle as a pair of trousers, only giving extra size to the legs and allowing tlie extra amount of goods for plaits and full- ness. The accompanying draft illustrates a divided bicycle skirt with a reverse box plait in front and back. The draft is produced from the following measure- ments: ]'\ill length of skirt from waist line to floor, 40 inches. Waist, - 24 I Seat, 24 10 DRAFT. 42 Square out and down from .*\. A to B is '.( of length plus t inch (ii inches). A to C is full length, 33 inches, which is 2 inches more than ^8 of 40, the entire length. S(|uare out from B and C. B to D is >-2 seat. Square out from D to E and down to F. E to J is ?i' and to I is ij,4 inches. D to K is r }2 and to G is 3 inches. Sweep from D to G and F to H by J and draw a line from I through G to 11. E D K folds over to I G H, making a plait. Square out from G to M. G to M and G to 13 is '■, seat. H to 14 is yi and 14 to N is yi seat. E to T is 2 inches ('o waist). I to 2 is 3/j inch, 2 to 3 is J.-e- 3 to 4 is ;^' inch and 4 to 5 is ji waist. A to 1 1 is 8 inches (i of full length.) Shape forepart as per diagram. A to 6 is I inch and B to V is 2 inches. Draw a line from 6 through Y to X, which will be the outside fold of skirt. Shape side over hip from 5 to 11. Extend line J up to O. J to O is 1 3^ inches. Draw a line from O through M to Q. M to /, and M to P is ji seat. Q to 15 is }(, and 15 to W is j4 seat. O to T is I inch and T to R is i inch. K is halfway between D and G. Draw a line from R through K to S. R K S will fold over to O M Q. Square out from M to Z. Point R is Jj inch below point T. R to 10 is ](, waist, 6 to 7 is '6 waist; take out from 7 to 8 and 9 to 10 so as to make distance from 8 to 9 }■■(, waist. The distance from O to Q should be i '^ inches more than A to C. The top of waist is finished with a js inch wide band. The sides are finished with slashes containing three or more buttons. On the right side is a pocket. The left side is left open and closes at top with either a button or hooks. Both the pocket and the opens are held closed with glove-fasteners. The bottom is usually turned up and stretched 4 to 5 rows ?i to ^2 inch apart. The skirt may be cut without seams if the material is wide enough, or seams may be placed as from A through fi,BtoC, through lines J, K,L, andT,U,V. NKW SUl'KRLATIVK SYSTK.M OK CUTTINC. LADIES' CARMI'.NIS. «3 r^j a X' 84 NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. EXPLANATION OF PLATE 43. RIDING BREECHES. To enable the cutter to produce a close fitting pair of riding breeches it liecomes necessary for him or her to have a close measure, and no lady will object to being measured in the proper manner, the same as we would measure a man for the same kind of garment. How- ever, the following rule may be used to advantage: If the outside length is 42 the inside will be 31 and the rise It. Take the outside length, divide -it by 4, and take 1-4 plus ^ inch for the rise. The remainder, }/^ less }i inch, will be the leg. The knee is two inches above one-half of inside length ; the ankle is two and one-half inches above full length of leg. The accompanying diagram is produced from the following measures : Outside, 42 Inseam to knee. ^sli To ankle. 28y2 IS ■5 Waist, 24 Knee, Seat, 42 Galf, Thigh, 25'^ Ankle, TO DRAFT. Draw line A B to K. Square out from A to T. A to H is rise, 1 1 inches. B C is length to knee, i^^A inches. C to D is two inches e.xtra length added for bend of knee and ease; to L is inside length plus 2 inches. Scjuare across B, D and E. B to F is one-half seat (on division). Square up from V to T. F to G is ys seat. F to I is i^ seat. Draw a line from I to G. S is halfway between I and G. S to Y is ?4 inch. Draw a line from I to J and K. J to K is I inch. H is halfway between B and G. E to N is the same as B to H. Draw center line from N through M, H to L and U. Apply one fourth knee measure from M to Rand M to Q. Apply one-fourth of ankle measure from N to O and N to P, and apply the calf measure in like manner at 16. T to I is .- ;i inch. 1 to 2 is 2}'2 inches. 2 to 3 is j4 inch. 3 to 4 is 2^'^ inches. 4 to 5 is yi inch. 3 to 6 is 2^2 inches. Siiape forepart as reiiresented. THE ri.\CKl>ART. Extend lines at waist, seat, knee and bottom. G to X is i's seat. L to U is 3 inches. Draw a line from I to U. K to W is 2j{ inches. R to II is }^ inch. Q to I 2 is ^ inch. ' 16 is 4 inches below knee. N to 17 and N to 18 is i inch. I 7 to 13 and 18 to 14 is one-fourth ankle measure and ^2 inch. Apply the measure over the calf at 16. Add a button stand as indicated by broken line at 15. Take out a half inch V at M as indicated by dotted lines. U to 7 is 2^2 inches. 7 to 8 is 1 inch. 8 to 9 is 2 ?/( inches. 9 to 10 is I ^4 inches. 10 to V is 2^4 inches. Shape as represented. The top is finished with a regular waist band. The opening may be made in the sides, or quite often they are made with a regular fly front. Seams are included in this draft. NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. «S PLATE 43. P 7^ '8 H p /a frTo 13 86 NEW SUPERLATI\E SYSTEM OE CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. EXPLANATION OF PLATE 44. PLATE 44. THE LEGGINS Draw line A B. .A to B is the length, i6 inches. A to D is 4 inches. B to C is 4 inches. S{, inches from 5 to 6, and take out a slash of 1 inch in the center running out to nothing at 5 and 6. The lower part should be cut ^ of an inch shorter than the top and stretched out so as to make this part hollow and fit in close in the lap when in a sitting position. Point 10 is halfway between point 6 and line M O. The dart at O is I '4 inches and the dart at P is i inch. Shape left side from H down to F as shown in dia- gram. THE BACKP.\RT. F to R is 20 inches being the same as the length of the skirt. T is halfway between F and R. Square up from T to U and draw a line from U to E for top of back. G to J is 4 inches. Shape left side from J through I to F. Apply waist measure from C to 5 and D. Place this amount at I and measure up to U, and whatever amount is over the full waist measure is to be taken out in two darts as from i to 2 and 3 to 4. R to S is 2 inches. Draw line from U through S and 7. Draw a parallel line from T through 12 to 11. Lay corner of square at S, letting long arm rest at U and square down to 12. R to V is 5 inches. Square down from V to W. I 2 to R is 1% inches longer than 12 to S. II to 7 is I ^ inches longer than 11 to 8. A V of i}{ inches is taken out between 7 and 8. Measure backpart from U to S, R to 7 and 8 to W and make forepart the same length from C to O, P to Q. There is a 5 to 6-inch turn-up or hem at the bottom of skirt and the top of the skirt must be lined. The opening is made on the left side as illustrated on the pattern, also a pocket is either put lengthwise in the side seam or crosswise as indicated on dia- gram. An elastic strap is sewed on the forepart for the foot to hold the skirt down. NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. go NEW SUPP:RLATIVE system of cutting LADIES' GARMENTS. EXPLANATION OF PLATE 48. RIDING SKIRT. E to N is '4 of length and N to F is i >4 inches. F to G is )( of hip (y? on division). This riding skirt i., more form fitting than the pre- h to I is ^^ of hip ( ■/, on division). ceding one. It is drafted from the proportions of the j^ ^^ ^j j^ ,. ^f ^j^, ^„ division, size of waist, hip and length of skirt as follows: A to i is one inch Waist 24 I Hip, 42 | Length of skirt, 40 Take out a V as between 2 and 5 so as to make distance from I to 2, 3 to M, two inches less than half of THE FOREPART (SEE DIAGRAM A). ^vaist measurc. Draw a straight line A B C. Draw a line from M to N. Scjuare across from A to L. Sweep from M to K by N. A to H is ^s of length and to D full length of skirt, and N to 4 is ' .* hip on division. if extra length is desired add from one to two 4 to 5 is 2 inches. inches extra. K to 7 is 1 inch and K to 6 is i inch. D to C is '/, of length. Draw straight line from 7 to N. Square lines 15, C and D. 8 to 9 is one inch. 1! to K is '4 of hip ( '/j on ilivision ). (See back jjart Diagram B on page 92.) NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 9' PLATE 48. DiAq- A Ai)B «} O ^t)G NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. EXPLANATION OF PLATE 49. RIDING SKIRT. V to U is 1)4 inches. A to D is length, the same as A to D on the forepart. THE i;.A(_Ki'.\RT (i)i,\(;R.AM i;). W to X is 3 inches. Square line A B D. X to Y is 's of hip (^4 on division). Square acioss at A. Reduce waist one inch at A and one inch in a V A to B is J6 length. A to C is j 3 length. between .\ and R. Square lines B and C. M to i is ij{ inches and i to 3 is 6 inches. C to E is j{ of hip ( }< on division). 3 to 5 is 4 inches. E to F is >t of length and F to G is Js of length. N to 2 is i J-^' inches. G to H is }{ of hip (>{. on division). 2 to 4 is 3 inches. K is halfway between F and L. 4 to 6 is 10 inches. Draw a line from K through P and R forming point Q L to 7 is one inch. and sweep from A to R by Q. Shape as represented and add seam when cutting the Sweep from R to S by K.. cloth. S to T is 2 inches. The opening is in the left side as from A to B, which G to I is 1}^ inches. is finished with a fly. Sweep from T to U by I. The skirt must be lined over the knee as indicated O to V is I '4 inches. by dotted lines. NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSIEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 93 PLATE 49. 9 + NEW SUPER!, \TIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. EXPLANATION OF PLATE 50. HALF CIRCLE CAPE. The half circle cape is cut in the following manner. (See Diagram A). Square up and down from A. A to B is 4 inches and A to U is ''^ breast. B to C is 14 inch. C to V is length of waist and to X full length. Square lines B, A, U and V. A to D is }s, D to E is js and E to F is }i breast. F to G is- ''6 breast. Square out from G through K J to 3. G to K is '6, K to J is }s, J to I is }i and I to II is js breast. Square up and down from H. A to L and H to L is the same as .\ to G. M is yi inch below C. Sweep from M to N by L. Draw a line from I, to G. B to O is J8 breast. Sweep from O to Q by G, locating points T R S, and where sweeps cross at Q is the front shoulder point. Draw a line from O to G and from Q to G. Sweep from F to K by G, locating points 1 and 2. Make distance from T to S the sime as distance from i to 2. H to 3 is one inch, draw a line from L through 3 for front. V to 7 is ^ inch and W to 8 the same. Ap])ly length desired from C to X and sweep from X to Y using point R as pivot. Add enough at points X and Y' to make it an even run at bottom. THE KUI.I. CIRCLE CAPE Is cut in the following manner. (See Diagram B). Square up and down from A. This line represents the center of cape. Square across at A. A to B is ^ neck, A to C is ('2 neck and A to D is ^i neck. Apply length from C to E F G or I for whatever length is desired, and make a-sweep using point B for pivot and lengthen front and back so as to get an even run. C is the back, B the side and D the front of neck. The collar on either of these capes may be a stand- ing, turn down or a high standing collar. NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' CAKMKNTS. 95 PLATE 50. 96 NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. TllK PRUSSIAN I'OI.LAR. EXPLANATION OF PLATE 51. COMBINATION CAPE METHOD. 8, 9, TO, we have a ^ circle with a V taken out in " the shoulder. By cutting pattern us illustrated by the On opposite page will be found a combination 111 .• ., 1 • 1 . • j ' ^ ' ° shaded [jortions the regular cape is obtained. method of drafting capes. From this method may be drafted the ?/( circle military cape or the regular shoulder cape with a seam in the center of shoulder. The collar is drafted by drawing a line from 1 to 2. The accompanying draft is for a normal figure. Square down from i to 3. 1 to 3 is 2 inches. Shape from 2 to 3 as illustrated in diagram. 2 to 5 is r 14 inches for stand. Make a point at A. . /- • • 1 ' 5 to 6 is 3 inches. A to H is '/,' breast. . • • u '■* I to 4 is 2 inches. A to C is ]4 breast. TO UKAKT. Draw a straight line from A down to R Lay corner of sijuare at 3, letting arm rest on point 4 and square down from 3 to 7 for front of collar. VAMAIIONS. Square back from C to D. C to D is ' ! breast. Lay corner of square at point A, letting short arm rest at point D and draw back renter line from A to E. Tor a lady with a long neck add from C to M what- A to F is J8 breast. ever extra height in neck is desired, square back from A to G is 14^ breast. N to | and lay corner of sijuare at point A, draw back F to S is '6 breast. center line from A to K as indicated by dotted line. Stjuare up from S to T. For a short neck figure go uji from C to L whatever Square lines from G through P to O, and from li through extra amount neck is shorter than proportion. Square P to N. out to point II and draw back center line from Draw line from .\ through point P to "leopard spot.'' .'\ to I as indicated by dot and dash line. For stooped Apply length desired from F to E. or erect figures slide point A up or down on back center Sweep from E through N* () to K using point T as line according to whatever stoop or erect is wanted. pivot. F"or a }4 inch stooped form go down from A to 2, C to U is 2 '4 inches. half an inch, and for a '/^ inch erect formgoback from Square down from U to V. .\ to 3, half inch, then change the neck gorge to con- Draw line from A through W to U. form to the new center point, /. e., for a stooped figure Add from \V to X and U to Y, 2 inches, or whatever 2 to F should be yi and 2 to B '4 breast, and in an is desired for lap in front. erect figure 3 to F is ya and 3 to B '4' breast. The cape The full size of tlie draft will make a three fourths is usually made fly-front and has a Prussian collar, circle cape, and by splitting it through on the shoulder Note. — This method of cutting capes will hold good from T to P and plaiting N over to O as per dotted line for both ladies and gentlemen. NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 97 PLATE 51 y\ NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. EXPLANATION OF PLATE 52. OPERA CLOAKS. The accompanying drafts illustrate two different styles of opera cloaks. The outside draft is that of a cloak cut in one piece -with a seam in the middle of the back and a seam in the shoulder. It has a regular standing collar. The inside draft gives an illustration of how a Raglan Opera Cloak may be produced from the regular pattern. The accompanying drafts are produced by propor- tions from the following measures: Length to natural waist, i6 Neck, 14 Breast, 36 Full length, - - 42 Collar, 17 Bust, 3>S Full length of figure 5 feet 4 inches. ■1(1 DR'^FT. Commence by drawing a straight line as from .\ to K. \ to B is 2 inches. B to C is y'} bust. ,'\ to D is waist length and to E full length. Si|uare lines B, C, D. A to F is '/() breast. Square out from F. !•' to G is % and G to H is ,'., breast. F to K is ; J bust. K to M is '/I and M to N is A breast. C to R is 'j bust. R to S is ^ bust. Square up from S to Q. R to T is '3 bust. Draw a line through T to 16 from FI. Scpiare out from T to X by line H T. T to U is }i bust, U to V is ; s bust and U to \V is j-i bust. \V to X is two inches. Square down from X to Y and draw a line from N through X to Z and shape front from M through .\ to Z. Draw a line from .V to K and K to ]. A to O is 'a breast. Draw a line from O to J. O to P is '/j inch. S(|uare up from V to Q. S to I and V to 2 is 14 inch more than yi bust. E to 15 is }'o bust. X to Y is the same distance as D to E. T to 16 is the same as X to Y. Point 30 represents the sleeve head after the shoulders are sewed toe;ether. The sleeve head must be gathered in by pulling in the thread from i to 2 and the fullness pressed in so that the sleeve head will go in even to the shoulder. THE NECK. Measure the neck gorge from .\ to P and K to M, which should be two inches more than the actual size of the collar worn, in this case 16 inches. IHE COLLAR. Form a square from 5 to 6 and 5 to 7. 5 to 6 is )i( and 5 to 7 is yi neck. Square out from 6 to 10 and 7 to 13. Shape from 6 through 8 and 9 to 7. Make width of collar from 6 to 10 and 7 to 13 from 4 to 5 inches. Split through from 8 to 1 1 and 9 to 12 and add about 3 8 inch spring to each piece as at 8 and 9. If the collar be of soft pliable goods the inside edge may be stretched at points 8 and 9 and in this case the collar is cut in one piece, otherwise it is in six pieces. The inside diagrams (with top portions shaded) repre- sent the Raglan Opera Cloak, which is produced in the following manner: Cut off the back as per broken line from i to 4 and then cut off the front shoulder as per broken line from points 2 to 3. The shaded parts represent these changes. Piece 20 is what has been cut off from the front shoulder and i)iece 21 what has been cut from the back shoulder. These pieces are placed together and set on top of the sleeve-head, overlapping J^ inch as at 19. The side piece of the collar, 22, is set on the top of the shoulder pieces and shaped off as from 17 to 21 and from 18 to 20 up to the neck. There will be fullness on the side piece the same as on a regular Raglan sleeve from 18 to 20 and 17 to 29 and 18 to 28. B is the back, C the front, and D the side piece. The collar should be attached to the back and side pieces, but on the front gorge it is better to have a seam as from 26 to 27. The "Raglan Opera Cloak," if cut and made up properly will produce a novel up todate and stylish garment. Note. — Add seams all over. NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' CARMKNIS. 99 L.ofC. NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. EXPLANATION OF PLATE 53. CAPE WITH YOKE. Divide distance from B to C into 5 eo5 PLATE 55. V U io6 NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. EXPLANATION OF PLATES 56 AND 57. HOW TO MAKE THE CANVAS. The broken lines represent the actual patterns of the bas w:^' M. >1fe ~, r^^- f'.r T.-^ fiji. ;^v\ ' iJ:! ri> A ^% a5S^ r^;:'W^ '^'i^. •4i,f /■^Tr-^ IS •^'c- %"%^ •'^^ ^ ■^ m? 1 w ife-^ : /*. K^f:¥k ik LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 013 737 078 5 ^\