E 241 .T7 T6 Copy 1 TRfWashinaton's Crossma Sketch Book THE WASHINGTON'S CROSSING SKETCH BOOK CHARLES BURR TODD AUTHOR OF "the true AARON BURR" "story of the city of new YORK" ETC. WITH ILLUSTRATIONS i* THE RIVER SCHOOL OF ART WASHINGTON'S CROSSING NEW JERSEY 1914. Copyright 1914 By Charles Burr Todd All rights reserved APR -I 1914 3)CI.A3TJir)0 "j^W'P ■' I n "V ^ **j* * .i*rf"-*r-« .li Wm k^H If- K^ f OR 1 Ht {.OMVV155IONCR5 •WASHINGTON CROSSING PARK ■CtNrRM PI AN- .' I- y '•"^^^^^S^^f^ ^^^ <%} f* jgjp-i*^ A SHORT DESCRIPTION OF WASHINGTON CROSSING PARK BY Chas. W. Leavitt, Jr. Tn planning for the improvement of the historic grounds traversed by George Washington and the Continental Troops at the critical turning point in the eilorts of the United States to obtain freedom, it seeiiied best to arrange Washington Crossing Park so that it would recall as many of these stirring events as possible. The plan for this park eontem])lates a memorial bridge over the Delaware Eivcr at a point where the crossing of the troops from the Pennsylvania to the New Jersey shore took place. This bridge will link the two states and form a part of a direct route from New York City to Philadelphia, for which reason it will be greatly appre- ciated. From the New Jersey end of this bridge, it is proposed to re-establish the line of march, leading from the old house, which Washington occupied during the transfer of troops across the river, to Bear Tavern. Avhere he stopped for refreshment. At this latter point, the army was di- vided, one detachment going, under Greene, via Penning- ton, and the other, under Sullivan, via the River Road, to Trenton. Along the line of mai'ch. through the property which has been acquired by the Washington Crossing Park Com- mission, will be placed various mementoes of this event. Amonsr others will bo a wall and terrace extending out from the old homestead to a point overlooking the line of march, at Avhicli latter place there will be a flag-pole and a plaza, since there is a most beautiful view from here, over the whole park. Where the line of march passes out of the park property, it is proposed to create a plaza, with a statue in the center, surrounded by some high walls, in which will be ornamental gateways. In the sides of these walls will be bas-reliefs, depicting some of the scenes of the march and the various generals engaged in it. The cen- tral statue will, of course, be Washington. Similar treat- ments Avill be at either end of the bridge. It is further planned to reforest much of this park land and bring the park into its original condition, retaining only such cultivated portions as may seem wise for the landscape treatment. The old farm- or manor-house on the property will be retained, with rooms for the various historical societies. In connection with this building will be some ornamental flower gardens, in which the Colonial flowers will be cultivated. FOEEWORD. Washington's Crossing, brought into prominence of late by the project to erect there a N'ational Park, is situated in Mercer county, New Jersey, nine miles above Trenton by the river road, about sixty miles from New York and forty from Philadelphia. The project of making here a Memorial Park to com- memorate the spot where Washington and his Continentals crossed the Delaware on Christmas night, 1776, to surprise the Hessians and gain the splendid victory of Trenton, had its birth at a meeting held in Taylor Opera House, Trenton, in observance of the first Columbus Day as a legal holiday in New Jersey. At this meeting were present Governor Fort of New Jersey, the Mayor of Trenton, the Hon. F. 0. Briggs, United States Senator from New Jersey, the Hon. Jno. W. Wood, Representative in Congress of the Trenton district, and a great body of representative citizens of the city and state. Near its close a resolution was offered and passed with unanimity requesting Governor Fort to appoint a com- mission to bring the matter to the attention of the people of New eTersey and of the nation. Governor Fort gave the measure his unqualified approval and appointed twenty- five men and women of prominence throughout the state. This commission, however, did not seem to develop suf- ficient energy to initiate the movement and carry it to a successful conclusion, and the Legislature of 1912 passed a bill which superseded it by creating a much smaller com- mission, consisting of the Governor, Comptroller, Treasurer and five citizens of New Jersey, to carry out the object of 9 the bill. They were to serve without pay, and twenty-five thousand dollars were voted to carry out the purposes of the act. President Woodrow AVilson, then Governor of ISTew Jersey, heartily approved of the bill, and appointed as members Colonel William Libby of Princeton, the Eev. Jesse Joralemon of Jersey City, L, V. Silver of Trenton, Charles Blackman of Atlantic City, and William L. Doyle of Trenton. When the commission met and or- ganized Governor Wilson, as chairman, stated that while the work would have his hearty support he was far too busy to give it his personal attention, and suggested that the commission choose one of its number vice-chairman to act in his place. This was done. Mr. William L. Doyle being appointed to that position. At the same time Mr. L. V. Silver was elected secretary, while the treasurer and comptroller jointly filled the office of treasurer. This com- mission at once took action. It procured a plan for the erection of a monument that has met with hearty approval. It purchased the Blackwell farm of one hundred acres on the road upon which the patriots marched from the landing to Bear Tavern, and later engaged a prominent landscape engineer, Charles W. Leavitt. Jr.. of Xew York City, to prepare a plan for the proposed park and environment. It has also made proposals for other lands lying between the Blackwell farm and the landing needed in the proper de- velopment of the plan, and applied to the Legislature of 1912 for an appropriation sufficient to purchase the same, but while the bill passed the Assembly it failed in the Senate. The commission is therefore now resting hoping for bettei' success with the Leo-jcdatiire of 1914. 10 II. THE DESCENT OX TRENTON. The event that gave Washington's Crossing its name and importance was l)nt a minor move on the military chess board, and but little more than a skirmish com- pared to the great battles of history, but tliere was a certain initiative about it. a courage, energy, endurance typical of the American spirit that has given it larger space in the popular imagination that any other battle of the Revolution, save perhaps Lexington and Bunker Hill. We are thrilled by Thermopylae and Horatio's Holding of the Bridge, but here was cold, darkness, tempest, snow and sleet, a wide river filled with floating ice, a nine miles' march, and a seasoned enemy to fight at the end, with an almost impassable river in the rear. Besides, consider what was at stake — the desperate necessity for the stroke. The August before Washington had suffered defeat en Long Island, had retreated to New York City, to Harlem Heights, across the Hudson into northern New Jersey, and across the state to the Delaware River, always with the victorious forces of Howe and Cornwallis so near in pursuit that every night their camp-fires lighted up his eastern horizon while they whitened the country with proclamations otTering free pardon to all "rebels" who would come in, lay down their arms and submit. Always beaten, always retreating, naked, half-starved, unpaid, hope- less, what wonder that his soldiers deserted by hundreds. or that those whose terms of enlistment expired refused 11 to re-enlist. Finall}-, early in December, he had been forced to put the Delaware between him and his foes. Brooding in his camp near Xewtown among the Pennsyl- vania hills, Washington saw that he must strike a blow that would redeem his lost prestige and demoralize the enemy, or, to use his own words m a letter to his In'other. •'the game was pretty nearly up." Fortunately the overween- ing confidence of his enemy soon gave him an opportunity. A band of Hessian mercenaries had led the British advance through Xew Jersey. They were subjects of six ])etty princes of Germany who had been torn from their fields, workshops and even churches, and sold to King (Jeorge for £7, 4s, 4d per head, to aid him in subduing his American colonies. Three regiments of them — the Eall, von Knyphausen and von Lossberg, with a detachment of artillery, fifty Hessian yagers and twenty light dragoons, about 1400 men in all — had gone into winter quarters at Trenton, across the river from Xewtown, with other de- tachments at Bordentown, six miles below, and at other places on the east bank of the Delaware. Washington de- termined to capture the Trenton contingent. But first he must learn all about them — their number, where the officers were quartered, the position of the men, the outposts, sen- tinels, etc. He had had with him since leaving the Hudson a veteran of Arnold's march to Quebec who possessed marked qualifications for the post of scout and spy, John Honeyman of Clriggstown, New Jersey. A Scotch-Irishman by descent he possessed all the wit and resourcefulness of his race, and a rare power of disguising his personality so as to appear the opposite of his real self. Washington now sent for him and asking his officers to leaxe the room made known his wants. Honeyman accepted with alacrity, and donning his butcher's frock, with whip in hand went boldly to the Hessian camp, and while bargaining with the com- missaries for beef on the hoof gained all the information 12 his chief desired: lie even brouglit in a few small lots to disarm suspicion. On the afternoon of December 22d. he strolled leisurely out the Trenton road, as if going for more cattle, until three miles outside the Hessian line, he saw two American scouts and attracted their attention by sna])- ]iing his Avhip. They pounced upon him instantly and haled him before the Commander-in-Chief. "Gentlemen," said Washington to his officers, "you may leave the room. I will examine this man in private." They did so. and the Commander was given the intelligence he had asked for to the most minute detail. "You have done well,*' said he, "and shall be rewarded. Xow listen : Spies and traitors swarm my camp and I can trust no one. You will, therefore, be placed in the guard-house for the night, and a court-martial ordered for your trial tomorrow, but I will see that you have a chance to escape during the night. Go, then, to Ball's camp, tell him of your imprison- ment here, and give the most gloomy account of our con- dition possible to lull him to security."' These instructions Honeyman carried out to the letter. The Germans feast and drink deep at Christmas, and generally end the day with a dance. AVashington, there- fore, chose the morning after Christmas for his attack, surmising that the enemy would be in no condition for defence. Preparations were at once begun. Three days' rations were cooked, the Durham boats on the river were commandeered* and his plan of battle formed. The latter was simple but judicious. General Ewing, at Bristol, "*These boats played so important a part in tlie movement that a brief description is in order. They were a sort of canoe from thirty to forty feet long, usually painted black, and carried a crew of four or five men. A steering oar that could be placed at either end and could be wielded by one man guided the craft on the down trip : going up stream she was poled. These boats carried merchandise and even iron ore up and down the Dela- ware from as far up as Oxford-Furnace, in Sussex county, to Philadelphia for years before canals came into vogue. 13 nearly opposite Trenton, was to cross the river and seize the bridge over Assiinpink Creek thus cutting off Kail's supports at the south; Putnam and Cadwallader were to cross farther south and attack Donop at Bordentown, while Washington, with the main army some 2400 strong, was to cross at McKonkey's Ferry, nine miles above Trenton, and strike Rail from the north. Early on Christmas morning the latter issued his order for the movement as follows : "Each brigade to be furnished with two good guides. General Stephen's brigade to form the advance party and to have with them a detachment of the artillery without cannon provided with spikes and hammers to spike up the enemies' cannon in case of necessity, or to bring them off if it can be effected; the party to be provided with drag ropes for tlic ])urpose of dragging off the cannon. General Stephen is to attack and force the enemies' guards and seize snch posts as may prevent them forming in the streets, and in case they are annoyed from the houses to set tlicni on fire. Tlie brigades of Mercer and Lord Ster- ling, under the command of Major General Greene, to sup- port General Stephen. This is the second division or left wing of tbe army and to march by way of the Pennington road. "St. Chiir's, Glover's and Sargent's brigades, under Major General Sullivan, to march by the river road. This is the first division of the army and is to form the right wing. Lord Sterling's brigade to form the reserve of the left wing, and General St. Clair's brigade the reserve of the rigbt wing. These reserves to form a second line in conjunction or a second line to each division as circum- stances may require. Eacli brigadier to make the colonels acquainted with the posts of their respective regiments in the brigade, and the major generals will inform them of the posts of tlie brigades in the line. Four pieces of artillery 14 to march at the head of each column; three pieces at the head of the second brigade of each division, and two pieces with each of the reserves. The troops to be assembled one mile back of McKonkey's Ferry, and embark on board the boats in the following order under the direction of Colonel Knox : "(Jeneral Stephen's brigade with the detachment of ar- tillery to embark first; General Mercer's next. Lord Ster- ling's next, General Fermoy's next, who will march into the rear of the second division and file otf from the Pen- nington to the Princeton road in such direction that he can, with the greatest ease and safety, secure the passes between Princeton and Trenton — the guides will be best judges of this. He is to take two pieces of artillery with him. St. Clair's, Glover's and Sargent's brigades to em- l)ark in order. Immediately upon their debarkation the whole to form in line and march in subdivisions from the right. The commanding officers of regiments to observe that the divisions be equal, and that proper officers be appointed for each, A profound silence to be enjoined and no man to quit his ranks under pain of death. Each brigadier to appoint flanking parties ; the reserve brigades to appoint the rear guards of the columns; the heads of the columns to be appointed to arrive at Trenton at five o'clock. Captain Washington and Captain Flahaven with a party of forty men each to march before the divisions and post themselves on the road abont three miles from Trenton and make prisoners of all going or coming out of town. General Stephen will appoint a guard to form a chain of sentries around the landing-place at a sufficient distance from the river to permit the troops to form, this guard not to suffer any person to go in or come out, but to detain all persons who attempt either; this guard to join their brigade when the troops are all over." The instructions of the brigade commanders to their 15 colonels may be learned from the followins: to Colonel Durkee from General Mercer, dated Christmas day! "Sir — you are to see that yonr men have three days' provisions ready cooked before 12 o'clock this forenoon, the whole fit for duty except a Sergeant and six men to be left with the bao-gage. and to parade precisely at four in the afternoon with their arms, accouterments and ammuni- tion in the best order, with their ])rovisions and blankets. You will have them told off in divisions in which order they are to march; eight men abreast, with the officers fixed to their divisions from which they are on no account to separate. No man is to quit his division under pain of instant punishment ; each officer is to provide himself with a piece of white paper stuck in his hat for a field mark. You will order your men to assemble and parade them in the valley immediately over the hill on the back of McKon- key's Ferry, to remain there for further orders. A pro- found silence is to be observed both by officers and men. and a strict and ready attention paid to whatever orders may be given."' There was on Washington's staff at this time a young offi- cer who possessed a happy flow of words with some literary style, and who in his diary wrote a graphic and striking account of the movement which we copy, as on the whole the most satisfactory narrative. "Dec. 25, Christmas morning. — They make a great deal of Christmas in Germany and no doubt the Hessians will drink a great deal of beer and have a dance tonight. They will be sleepy tomorrow morning. Washington will set the tune for them about daybreak. The rations are cooked. New flints and ammunition have been distributed. Colonel Glover's fishermen are to manage the boats just as they did in the retreat from I.ong Island. "Christmas, 6 p.m. — 'J'he regiments have had their even- ing parade but instead of returning to their quarters are 16 marching toward the ferrv. It is fearfully cohl and raw and a snow-storm setting in. The wind is northeast and heats in the faces of the men. It will be a terrible night for the men who have no shoes. Some of them have tied old rags around their feet, others are barefoot; but I have not heard a man complain. They are ready to suffer any hardship and die rather than give up their liberty. I have Just copied the order for marching. Both divisions are to go from the Ferry to Bear Tavern, two miles. They will separate there. Washington will accompany Greene's di- vision with a part of the artillery down the Pennington road ; Sullivan and the rest of the artillery will take the river road. ■'Dec. 2G, o a.m. — I am writing in the ferry house. The trooi)s are all over and the boats have gone back for the artillery. We are three hours behind the set time. Glover's men have had a hard time to force the boats through the floating ice Avith the snow drifting in their faces. I never have seen Washington so determined as he is now. He stands on the bank of the river wrapped in his cloak, super- intending the landing of his troops. He is calm and col- lected, but very determined. The storm is changing to sleet and cuts like a knife. The last cannon is being landed and we are ready to mount our horses. "Dec. 2(i, Xoon. — It was nearly 4 o'clock when we started. The two divisions divided at Bear Tavern.* At Birming- ham, three miles and a half south of the tavern, a man came with a message from General Sullivan that the storm was wetting their muskets and rendering them unfit for service. ''Tell General Sullivan," said Washington, "to use the bayonet. I am resolved to take Trenton." It was broad daylight when we came to a house where a man was chopping wood. He was very much surprised when he saw "General Rtrvker says, in liis "Battles of Trenton and Prince- ton," tliat tliey sejjarated at Birminjihani. 17 us. 'Can vou tell me where the Hessian picket is?' Wash- iiigton asked. The man hesitated, but T said 'Yon need not be frightened. It is General Washington who asks the question.' His face brightened, and he pointed toward the house of Mr. Howell. It was just 8 o'clock. Looking down the road I saw a Hessian running out from the house. He yelled in Dutch and swung his arms. Three or four others came out with their guns. Two of them fired at lis but their bullets whistled over our heads. Some of General Stephen's men rushed forward and cap- tured two. The others took to their heels, running toward Mr. Calhoun's house, where the picket guard was stationed, al)out twenty men under Captain Altenbrockum. They came running out of the house. The captain flourished his sword and tried to form his men. Some of them fired at us, others ran toward the \illage. The next moment we heard, drums beat and a bugle sound, and then from the west came the boom of a cannon. General Washington's face lighted up instantly, for he knew that it was one of Sullivan's guns. We could see a great commotion down towai'd the meeting house, men running here and there, oflhcers swinging their swords, artillerymen harnessing their horses. Captain Forrest unlimbered his guns. Wash- ington gave the order to advance and we rushed on to the junction of King and Queen streets. Forrest wheeled six of his guns into position to sweep both streets. The rifle- men under Colonel Hand, and Scott's and Lawson's bat- talions went upon the run through the fields on the left to gain possession of the Princeton road. The Hessians were just ready to open fire with two of their cannon when Captain Washington and Lieutenant Monroe with their men rushed forward and captured them. We saw Kail come riding up the street from his headquarters which were at Stacy Pott's house. We could hear him shouting in Dutch 'My brave soldiers, ad\ance !' His men were fright- 19 ened and confused, for our men were firin,2: npon them from fences and houses and they wei'e falling fast. Instead of advancing they ran into an apple orchard. The officers tried to rally them, hut our men kept advancing and pick- ing off the officers. It was not long before Eall tumbled from his horse, and his soldiers threw doAATi their guns and gave themselves up as prisoners. While this was taking place on the Pennington road C*olonel John Stark from New Hampshire, in the advance on the river road, was driving Knyphausen's men pell mell through the town. Sullivan sent a portion of his troops under St. Clair to seize the bridge and cut off the retreat of the Hessians toAvard Bordentown. Sullivan's men shot the artillery horses and captured two cannon attached to Knyphausen's regiment. "Dec. 26, 3 p.m. — I have been talking with EalFs adju- tant, Lieutenant Piel. He says that Eall sat down to a grand dinner at the Trenton Tavern Christmas day, that he drank a great deal of wine and sat up nearly all niglit playing cards. He had been in bed but a short time when the battle began, and was sound asleep. Piel shook him but found it hard work to wake him up. Supposing he was wide awake Piel went out to help rally the men, but Eall not appearing he went back and found him in his night shirt. 'What's the matter?' Eall asked. Piel informed him that a battle was going on. This seemed to bring him to liis senses. He dressed himself, rushed out and mounted his horse to be mortally wounded a few moments later. "We have taken nearly 1000 prisoners, six cannon, more than 1000 muskets, twelve drums and four colors. About forty Hessians were killed or wounded. Our loss is only two killed and three wounded. Two of the latter are Cap- tain Washington and Lieutenant Monroe who rushed for- ward very bravely to seize the cannon. I have just been with C4enerals Washington and Greene to see Eall. He will not live through the night. He asked that his men might 20 be kindly treated. Washington promised that he wouhl see they were well cared for. "Dec. 27, 1776. — Here we are back in our camp with the prisoners and trophies." 'J'hus was the victory won. Washington, however, did not succeed in capturing the Hessian posts below Trenton as he had planned, Cadwallader and Putnam not being able to get their cannon across the river because of the inclemency of the night. 21 in. THE CROSSIXG AS IT IS TODAY. Many will no doubt read these pages who have never seen the Crossing nor ever will see it. To them it is my purpose in this chapter to present as real and. graphic a picture of it as it is possible to make with pen, pencil and camera. Its salient and most interesting physical feature is, of course, the Delaware — here a noble stream, fully a thousand feet in width, and so deep that its waters never brawl or babble, but flow sedately on in spirals and upspringing eddies. I have myself traced it to its topmost spring in the western Catskills near the village of Eoxbury in the State of New York. While still a brook it flows through the grounds of a famous philanthropist and then southwest between moun- tains until reaching Deposit, and when but a few miles from the Susquehanna, it turns sharply southeast and flows between the two great states of New York and Pennsyl- vania until reaching Port Jervis, N. Y., when it turns sharply south and holds that general direction to its mouth in Delaware bay. forming the boundary line of New Jersey and Pennsylvania. All the way, quite down to the Crossing, it has leaped and babbled and glided between mountains receiving from them thousands of brooks, creeks and rivers, but at the Crossing the mountains sink down into broad ridges, a rolling country. Opposite, on the Pennsylvania side, are wide meadows stretching back half a mile to high ground, but on the Jersey side the hills impinge sharply on the river ; these are cut by numerous watercourses into ravines, the most romantic and picturesque imaginable, for 22 their beds being formed of old red sandstone disintegrate by strata forming walls across the stream, over which the waters dash in ripples or foaming cascades. Nowhere is there a country that would more readily lend itself to the art of the landscape engineer. On the left, as you face the river, is the new steel bridge replacing the old covered wooden structure, swept away by the flood of 1903, and connecting the Crossing Avith the village of Taylorsville on the Pennsylvania shore. Back of you is the Nelson house, covering the old ferry house, where the young sub- altern stopped in 1776 to record Washington's crossing, well knowing that he and his comrades were making history. The owners show one the old walls now forming part of their basement and cellar. The McAdam road from Tren- ton to Landiertville passes between this house and the river, and continues on up the bank of the stream. Just back of the Xelson house — almost touching a corner — are the tracks of the Trenton division of the Pennsylvania Eailroad — Del- aware Valley Line — giving access to the Allegheny coal fields, and connecting with lines for Buffalo and the west. They are laid on the west bank of the DelaAvare and Earitan canal, not the main stem, but a feeder constructed from Trenton to BulFs Island, a short distance above Lambert- ville, where its boats are locked into the river, towed across and locked into the canal on the Pennsylvania side, which has direct connection with the Lehigh coal fields. It was also intended to siqiply Avater to the main stem. The road up which the troops marched that fateful morn- ing is not the present macadamized Pennington road lead- ing across the railroad and canal and thence nearly due east to the Bear Tavern, which still stands about a mile from the river. This old road Avas blotted out by the canal and railroad. It left the ferry landing a short distance north of the Xelson house and Avound up through the fields to the old ]\rcIvonkey house, still standing, and at which 24 Waphingtoii and his officers are said to have stopped for refreshments. From the McKonkey house the old road may easily be traced as a farm lane, bounded on the south side by the wire fence dividing the Blackwell and ^IcKon- key farms and on the north by a line of trees and an occa- sional fence post standing where the old fence nsed to be. It is one field north of the present Pennington road. The large brick mansion on top of tlie hill as you go east toward Bear Tavern is the Blackwell house, with its farm of one hundred acres adjoining, recently acquired by the State of ISTew Jersey. The purchase of the adjoining McKonkey and Nelson farms will bring the state's holdings to the river bank and it is then proposed to erect the whole into a memorial park in honor of the men who suffered here nnd as an object lesson in patriotism and self-sacrifice to the living. A half mile farther east, at the four corners formed l)y the crossing of the Trenton and Harbourton and Pennington and Washington's Crossing roads, stands the famous Bear Tavern mentioned in all the general orders, diaries and letters of the army as the first objective after crossing the river and as the point where the column di- vided, the first division taking the Trenton road, which liere runs nearly due south, and the second, which Wash- ington accompanied, marching farther on and taking the Scotch road which ran into the road from Pennington to Trenton.* It should be understood that in Revolutionary times the present excellent river road did not exist. On account of the many deep ravines and watercourses on the immediate bank of the river the Trenton road ran about a mile back, where it crossed the ravines nearer their heads. Bear Tavern stands today very much as it was in 1776, and with its huge fireplace, paneled walls, heavy beams, low •^General Stryker, an authority, says the column did not divide until it reached Birmingham, 31/' miles south of the Tavern, but. does not »ive his source of information. 26 Top — Jacob's Creek a Few Rods Above Where the Continentals Crossed On Their Way to Trenton in 1776 Bottom — Steele's Creek Near Its Entrance into the Delaware Photos by Chas. B. Todd ceilings and deep cupboards is an interesting s]iocimen of the old time conntrv tavern. The region round about al)ounds in delightful walks and drives. The main road, for instance, from the Crossing to the village of Titusville a mile north along the river bank, crossing beautiful Steele's creek by the way ; or, keeping on above Titusville one takes the first road after crossing the canal which winds along the bed of a babbling brook, under the mountains, ascending steadily by well-kept farms and farmhouses until it comes out on the Titusville and Penn- ington road, a mile east of the former. Here, if like the writer you have a constitutional dislike of returning by the same route, take a cross road which leads over wide uplands and down into two ravines for a mile to the macadam road a short distance west of Rear Tavern, whence, turning west three-quarters of a mile, l)rings one to the Crossing. Again, after leaving the main T.ambertville road under the moun- tain take the first path to the left which Avinds up tlie moun- tain to the summit where are situated the farmhouse and breeding pens of the Delaware Valley Pheasantry, devoted to the raising of the beautiful and useful Asiatic bird for market. The view from the summit is grand, the whole valley of the Delaware for twenty miles lieing spread out before one with the river like a ribbon of light unrolled in the centre. This road is a private one leading to private property, but it is understood that the well disposed public may use it so long as they do not trespass on the preserves. If you are a pedestrian, thank Heaven, cross the toll bridge to Taylorsville and there take the trolley cars of the Xew Jersey and Pennsylvania Transportation Company to Land^ertville, nine miles north, thence walk back to the Crossing by the canal toAvpath. On a dreamy autumn day the journey is one long to be remembered ; at times road, canal, railroad and river are crowded together under the dark, wooded mountain ; again you are out in the 28 open with the meadows all about you and canal and railroad are alone. At times you meet a canal boat drawn by two, sometimes three, mules walking tandem. There is little traffic on the canal now, but trains half a mile long grind !)y bringing hard coal and crushed stone from the moun- tains and carrying soft coal back. Another very pretty walk or drive is the Jacob's Creek valley road from Somer- set station, a mile below the Crossing, to Pennington five miles up the valley of Jacob's Creek. When a mile up, if you take the road turning sharply to the left and crossing the creek, a mile will bring you to Bear Tavern whence you can return to the Crossing by the macadam road. 29 IV. THE OLD BRIDGE AT THE "CEOSSING" AND ITS GHOST. Through autumn days at the Crossing we lingered on tlie bridge watching the swirling eddies of the Delaware below, sometimes speculating as to the number of black- lurds hi the great flocks that stretched from shore to shore, anon scolding back at a saucy little kingfisher who, percbed on the topmost chord of the bridge, eyed the waters as in- tently as did we, but for a very different purpose, hoping to extract therefrom a dinner in the shape of an unwary chub or minnow. One day, Hallowe'en drawing near, when, as all know earth and air are full of ghosts, we became conscious of another presence on the bridge and looking up there stood the (jueerest little old num, and clad in the strangest cos- tume. His hair was long, scanty, and bleached by age; his face was thin and wizened and wrinkled and tanned; his eyes had sunken so far into their sockets that one could scarcely catch their expression; each individual hair of his whiskers stood on end like a Persian cat's, and his hands and fingers were like claws, so thin and contracted by age were they. He had a tattered old three-cornered hat on his head and wore the tow frock anciently worn by farmers, and the overalls of an artisan. "Who are you?" we asked at length when we had mas- tered all these details. "I am a composite," he replied, "the ghost of the old bridge, the refined and sublimated essence of all the men 31 and women who crossed it during its span of seventy-five years. Xo one ever saw nie before ; you see me because you are in tune with spiritual liarmonies, and because at Hallowe'en we spirits have power to draw nearer mortals than at any other time. That teamster there approaching Avill pass and see me not." Sure enough the man, half hidden in his little box in the middle of his load of hay, greeted me with a curt nod but seemed to have no perception of the strange figure at my side. "I was born away back in 1831," he continued, "almost a century ago. My father, as I was told and believe, was a young man living on the Pennsylvania shore, very much in love with a pretty damsel on the Jersey side, who in times of storm or floating ice was prevented for days to- gether from reaching his inamorata's side. " 'Why can't we have a bridge across this old river ?' he e.\claimed one day, when for a week he had been unable to cross. Xow, all the world loves a lover and everybody sympathized with the poor young man. So the Idea, that is 1, myself, was born. A bridge? Why not? All up and down both shores the question was repeated, discussed at store, church, blacksmith shop, wherever men met. It was plain that no one man could build it alone, but that one hundred could. So they combined, near a hundred of them, formed a joint stock company, and went to both state legis- latures for a charter giving them power to levy tolls on those using it. In the big house yonder on the Jersey shore they have the very first record book of the corpora- tion, and it is recorded therein that the first meeting of the stockholders was held on June G, 1833, and that by 1831 the bridge was finished, and a 'toll-gatherer' was appointed to collect tolls. Keally, there was no opposition except from Sandy McConkey, the old ferry man, who feared his occupation would be gone; but he had to go, as 32 so iiiany other men comfortably placed ha\e since had to eo before the march of improvement. When the new toll- gatherer was appointed there was quite a discussion as to the tolls ; but they were finally fixed upon as follows, just as you will find them Avritten in the old book : " 'To every wagon, coach or carriage drawn by four horses or mules, or sled or sleigli so drawn, 30 cts. " 'To every wagon, coach or carriage drawn by three horses or mules, or sled or sleigh so drawn, 30 cts. " 'To every pleasure carriage drawn by two horses or mules, 25 cts. " 'To every farm wagon or sled drawn by two horses or mules, 20 cts. ■' 'Wagon, carriage, sled or sleigh, drawn by one horse or mule, 10 cts. " 'Horse or mule and rider, 10 cts. " 'Lead or drove horse or mule, 6 cts. " 'Cattle of all kinds, 3 cts. " 'Sheep or swine, 1 ct. " '^Alieelbarrow or hand-cart, 4: cts. " 'Foot person, 2 cts.' "At a later meeting held Feb. 13, 1854, they ordained tliat carriages and wagons taking passengers to the railroad should pass at half rates. Tradition says that the first man to cross the new bridge, and on his wedding day at that, was the young man who had been the father of the Idea. "You should know that this is a very aristocrat among bridges, sir: for only a few yards up yonder Washington and his patriots crossed on that Christmas night of 1T76, when they made history and brought a nation to the birth. "But I don't like this new steel bridge,'' he continued. "Against the skyline it looks like a huge spider's web drawn across the river ; and the steel girders rust and have to be painted often and there is no cover for the floor 33 planks, and being wet by every storm they quickly decay. The old bridge, now, was solid and substantial, with a roof over it and covered sides; a little dark and smelly inside, I grant, but a solid, black mass that could be seen for miles up or down the river; while the storm-buffeted trav- eler, once he got inside, was sure of a shelter until he reached the other shore. "'I never was troubled with the blues while the old bridge stood. There was constant warfare between the Spirit of the Eiver and myself. He resented being placed in bondage by me, as it were. My five great stone piers chafed his proud current, and very early he swore to be freed from them. Three times he bowed his mighty form and jumped from his mountain lair to sweep me away, and twice he got me. Every spring T would watch the waters rise and rise to within a few inches of my floor beams and rush in solid tons of swirling battalions against my piers, but old Simeon Baldwin had done his work well and never one budged from its rocky bed. Then every winter massive cakes of ice came charging down and struck them with the force of a thousand trip hammers, but never a pier was moved an inch from its foundation. At length in January, 1(S41, wearying of these tactics he tried another method. For days and days it rained steadily, melting six feet of snow in the mountains. Inch by inch, foot by foot, I saw the waters rise against my piers. " 'Ha, ha!' cried he, 'I'll have you now !' " 'Don't you believe it,' said I, but I had misgivings. Higher and higher ran the water. The river ice broke up and huge cakes grinding and thrashing came against me, while the air was full of powdered ice and splinters. Up to the highest watermark ever known came the waves, lapped it out, rose a foot over that, then two feet, with the ice pack clamoring against me like hungry wolves, until at length creaking and groaning in all my timbers I went 34 out and dowji, liUiiig tlic iiR'adows with rjagments, while the great river sang jJiPans of victory. "But r, the Idea, was not dead. So useful had hccii tlie old l)iidge that men set to woi-k at onee to rephace it. My pieis were little damaged. They raised them two feet higher than before and in a yeai-'s time the toll gatherer was again at woi'k antl tlie farm wagons and coaches and all llie rest were rattlinu' and trundling across the bridge, while the Spirit of the Eiver sniked in his lair and made ready foi' anothei' foray. However, it was sixty-two years before he got me again, and then only l)y taking me at a mean disadvantage. It was in October that he sncceeded, and who ever heard liefore of a freshet in October, the month of repose, when the haze is on the hills, the valleys like dreamland, the harvest moon in the sky, and great nature, wearied with the growing ]iains of snmmer, relaxes hei- virile body iii the \ery quintessence of repose? Rnt the fres1i(4 came and T went — though my piers were two feet above the previous high-water mark, 1 went. On October lOth it happened, in 1003. In the big house yon- der there was then living a comely youth whom T loved because he was so fond of the river and the bridge, s]XMiding many of his leisure hours upon it, sometimes with a rod and reel in hand, more often Avatching the eddies appear and disappeai' between the piers. Xow a business man in Trenton — he was then going to school daily in that city. He kept a diary, as some schoolboys do, and under date of October 1 Oth wrote : " 'Cot up at five-thirty a.m. River very high. Went to Trenton on eight-thirty train. Came out at twelve m. and \vent to Wari'en St. station. Mr. (loddard said no trains would run so I walked from Yardley up the tow-path. .\i'rived at Taylorsville at 4.30 p.m. Cot across the bridge just in time because the water was then touching the floor. I was the last person to cross from Taylorsville 3o to this side. Eiver continued rising all night. First part of bridge went at 10.35 p.m. Second part near the Jersey shore at 12.30." '" The thin, piping voice ceased. I looked ut) Init no form was visible. I rushed to the Jersey shore and swept the river road A\'ith ray eye, bnt nothing was to l)e seen. Then to the Pennsyhania side, l3ut he was not in sight. Xor have I caught a glimpse of him from that day to this, though I have haunted the bridge day in and day out. lioping that he mio^ht reveal himself. 36 1-5 s -s C3 ^ „ to ^ e ■S ^ ^ O 5" -^ ,S — CJ ^ >, -^ C w ■= C ^ cs GJ rt '-• t- «i &-3 --^ . ^ ~ 5 s s > o a ts 2 " ^ = 3 J ^ >. 2 XOW BUT A COUNTEY LAXE. Just at'te'i- orossing the canal going east a wide road opens on the left leading np to a fine old Colonial dwelling set in spacious grounds, which in 1776 is said to have been the home of the old ferry-master, William McKonkey. On the left as one goes toward it is a large stone slab with a bronze tablet set in it bearing this inscription : "This tablet is erected by the Society of the Cincinnati in the State of Xew Jersey to commemorate the crossing of the Delaware Eiver by General Washington and the Conti- nental Army on Christmas night of 1776.'' This tablet was erected on land donated by the Misses Nelson, and was dedicated with appropriate ceremonies on Oct. 15, 1895. There is a similar tablet across the river on the Pennsylvania shore. Continuing on we come, in a hundred yards more, to the McKonkey house itself which is shaded by giant trees, some of them rare species as the black walnut, the Kentucky cof- fee tree, and the mammoth willow back of the spring house. From the latter a walled in spring sends a rivulet of clear cold water down the hillside to the canal. Few houses so old are so well preserved as this. On its front are the long, scalloped, original shingles, split from blocks of wood and shaved to the thin edge wdth a drawing knife. Within are the low ceilings, the paneled walls, the huge fireplace, the narrow stairs, wooden hinges on cupboard, doors, closets tucked away under the stairways and in nooks and corners that marked the middle class Colonial dwelling. The ladies 38 in charge show one the deep cupboard in which the liquid refreshments were kept of which, tradition says, Washing- ton and his officers partook before the column began its march. The road from the ferry landing in 1776 wound up through the meadows yonder to this old house, through its yard, by the barn, and followed the course of the farm lane yonder as is stated in another part of this ^York. This lane is a pleasant place in which to linger through autumn days and prolific of fancies. It is open to sun and sky and the views of mountain, valley and river from it are a revelation of the powers of the Infinite in planning a landscape. It does not seem to belong to any one. It has not been mowed this year; the thick grass that clothed it is withered and •Iry, the birds that nested here — the song sparrow, sweet- voiced thrush and wild canary — have raised their broods and Hown to warmer climes; the goldenrod and purple aster that one is sure bloomed here in their day are but memories; there is nothing to remind one of war, yet war once was here ; for up this road marched the ragged column of 1776 with the ridiculous little six and twelve pounders, and howitzers jolting and bounding along the uneven ground, a veritable Falstaffian ai'niy, yet marching on to victory. It is a satisfaction to note that in the plan of the pro- posed Memorial Park the commissioners have restored this lane to its former dio^nitv and made of it a road. 39 vr. There were not many makers of ballads in the Revolu- tionary armies or camps. The times were far too stern and grim for the "flower of poesie and song" to bloom. Trumbnll, Barlow, Alsop, Dr. Dwight, Freneau, Paine and a few others are knoAvn to ns. One of them wrote a ballad called the ''Battle of Trenton," but anonymously, and Frank Forrester (H. AY. Herbert) at a later day gave us his "Surprise at Trenton." These are the only songs in honor of the event that we have been able, after thorough search, to discover. Forrester's ballad occurs in a thin volume of his verse privately printed by Wiley in 1888 at six dollars the copy and now exceedingly rare. This poem we reproduce : 40 THE SURPRISE AT TRENTON BY Hexry WiLLIA]\[ Herbel'T. Eighteen hundred years liad passed Lacking only twenty-four, Since the Savior one-begotten Meek the Virgin Mother bore. Shepherds on that very night Tn the fiekls their watch did keep While the busy world around Silent lay all bathed in sleep. Lowly in his cradle-manger There the infant Savior slept, While the Maiden Mother o'er him Tears of humble gladness wept; And the Magi found him there Who had followed from afar, When they saw it in the East The Redeemer's holy star. For the star it went before them And the Wise Ones followed on "Till it stood above the spot And their joyous goal was won. Humbly there they bowed the knee. Humbly did their gifts unfold, Gifts of ivory and aloes. Myrrh, and frankincense and gold. 41 Eighteen hundred years had passed ; Eighteen hundred years and eight Since the Savior one begotten Bowed Him to a felon's fate. Nailed npon the cursed tree Suffered there our God and Lord. Peace to man He came to give, Peace He left not, but a sword. Noon it was of Christmas night On the wintry Delaware, Sulleidy the fallen snow Floated through the murky air, Sullenly the flooded river Moaned the whitening shores along. Sullenly the drifting ice Ground and tost in the current strong. Not a star was in the sky, Not a sound was on the breeze. Not a voice or stir was there In the thickly feathered trees. Only through the heavy gloom Muttered low the mournful rushing Of the deep and dismal stream. Through its icy fetters gushing. Lonely were the streets of Trenton, Trenton town hy the Delaware. Quartered there was the British Horse, Quartered the hearded Hessians there. Deep the snow on the roofs above. Deep the trackless roads below. Hark to the bell ! 'Twas midnight chime. Oh, but the strokes were stern and slow, 42 Not a guard was on his post, Not a round its circuit made; What the risk in sueli a storm Where the foe that should invade? Far beyond tlie flooded stream Pennsylvania wilds among, Far the Patriot army lay Frail, disjointed and unstrung. Washington, who, late so glorious. Braved in equal arms his King, Sees the boasted bird victorious Sadly droop its baffled wing. "Soldiers, speed the Christmas feast, Soldiers, fill the bumpers fair. Pass the bottle, pile the hearth; Cutting cold the wintry air. "Let the toast our country be Fi'om whatevei" country we; Some of German Fatherland. Britons ever bold and free. Comrades troll the jolly stave; Pass the bottle, fear no wrong. For the rebel hosts are weak And the wintry river strong." Tush ! they dare not. We who drove them Weak and weary, faint and few, Ti'acked them weaponless and wounded O'er the roads by their bloody dew, AA'hich to every painful print Trickled from their shoeless feet. Tush ! The craven dove as soon Shall the fearless falcon meet. 43 Madly raged the jovial rout, Loud the hursts of loyal song Eang amid the drifting storm, Eang the snowy fields along. Little deemed the roistering crew As their revelry they plied What avengers stern and sure Gathered on the icy tide. Gathered soon their glee to mar, Hearts afire and hands on hilt. Eedder liquor far than wine Long ere morning shall he spilt. Hark ! The deep and solemn hum Louder than the river's flow Eising heavier through the night Xearer through the drifting snow. 'Tis the hum of mustered men, Barges with their burthen brave, Painfully and long are tossing On the fierce and freezing wave. Horse and foot and guns are there Struggling through the awful gloom; Soon their din shall rouse the foe, Eouse him like the trump of doom. Firm as some gigantic oak Stood their chief on the hither shore, Marking how his comrades true Prospered Avith the laboring oar, Marking how each barge and boat Slowly battled to the strand, Marking how the serried lines Mustered as they came to land. 44 ('a I 111 his high and iiuhle port, Cahii his mighty face severe. None had seen it change witli doubt None had seen it pale with fear, And it showed as gi'andly now In that wild and perilous liour Fraught with wisdom half divine Fraught with more tlian mortal power. Steadily he stood and gazed Xot a cloud upon his brow, Calmer in the banquet hall Xever had he been than now. Yet his fate was on the cast — ■ Life and fame and country, all. Sterner game was never played Death or Freedom, win or fall. Fall he and his country's hope Sets, a sun to rise no more. Win he and her dawning light Yet may fill the unfathomed skies. Fall he, and his name must wane. Rebel chief of rgbel band. Win he, it shall live forever Fatlier of his native land. Silent stood he, grave and mute. Listening now the distant roar From the half heard town, and now Gazing on the crowded shore. Crowded with his Patriot host Burning for the vengeful fray. Ear and eye and heart erect Waiting for the trumpet's bray. 45 Silent 'till the latest boat Safe had stemmed the whirling- tide, 'Till the latest troo]) was landed Heart to heart and side by side. Then he turned his eyes aloft Moved his lips f^r a little sjiace. Mighty though he was he bowed him Meekly to the throne of grace. "God of battles, Lord of might, Let my country but be free. To Thy mercies I commend me (llory to thy Son and Thee." Then he waved his arm aloft With a mai'tial gesture proud "Let your march" he said, "be silent 'Till your cannon speak aloud." Silent was their rapid march Through the mist of rain and sleet. For the deep and drifted snow Gave no sound beneath their feet. Clashed no musket, beat no drum As they flitted thi'ough the gloom Liker far than living men To the phantoms of the tomb. Morn was near, but overcast Li the dim and rayless sky Not a gleam foreshowed his coming Yet the pallid sun was nigh. Morn was near, but not a guard Heard their march or saw them come. Lo, they form — the very dogs In the fatetl town are dumb. 46 Hark ! Tlio bell— the buoIeV blast ; Hark! The long and loud ahinns. Beat the drums — but all too late — All too late they call to arms. Forth they I'ush in disarray Forming fast with fearful din. Open now ye mouths of flame. Pour your crashing xolleys in. See the sharp and running Hash Hark! The long and rattling roll^ — There the western muskets blaze Every shot a mortal soul. \'ain was then the Hessian yager, Yain the English horseman's steel, Vain the German's hardihood. Vain the Briton's loyal zeal. Fast they fall the best and bravest, Unavenged and helpless fall. Rallying their men dismayed Campbell bold and gallant Kail. Then before that murderous hail Thick, incessant, sure as death Reel the shattered columns back, Gasp the dying chiefs for breath. Lo, 'tis o'er. Their arms they ground. All that brave men can did they, Fought while fight they could, then yielded. What avails the hopeless fray? What avails the horse's might Though his neck be clothed in thunder, What the cannon's fiery breath Eiving rock-built forts asunder. 47 What avails the speed of navies, Eocking on the subject tide? N"othing when the Lord of Hosts Battles on the righteous side. He who giveth not the race To the swift nor to the strong War's red honor, but alway Strengthens them who suffer long. Surel}' He on Trenton's niglit Steeled our mighty champion's heart. Gave him wisdom, gave him power, So to play his destined part. Brought the fiercest down before him, Turned the bravest back to fly; Covered aye, his head in battle That no hair of it should die. 'Held him steadfast in the right 'Till his glorious task was o'er And no hostile banner waved On Columbia's hallowed shore. 'Till his name was spread abroad For a nation's freedom won All honored from the setting To the risins; of the sun. 48 jjIBRARY OF CONGRESS 011 800 182 5 #