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Digitized by the Internet Archive 
 in 2011 with funding from 
 The Library of Congress 
 
 http://www.archive.org/details/marketassistantc01devo 
 
THE 
 
 MARKET ASSISTANT, 
 
 CONTAINING A BRIEF DESCRIPTION OP 
 
 EVERY ARTICLE OF HUMAN FOOD 
 
 SOLD IN THE PUBLIC MARKETS 
 
 OP THE CITIES OF 
 
 NEW YORK, BOSTON, PHILADELPHIA, AND BROOKLYN; 
 
 INCLUDING THE VARIOUS 
 
 DOMESTIC AND WILD ANIMALS, POULTRY, GAME, 
 FISH, VEGETABLES, FRUITS, &c, &c. 
 
 WITH 
 
 MANY CURIOUS INCIDENTS AND ANECDOTES. 
 
 BY 
 
 THOMAS F. DE VOE, 
 
 AUTHOR OF "THE MARKET-BOOK," ETC. 
 
 " What we eat." 
 
 NEW YORK: 
 PUBLISHED BY HURD AND HOUGHTON. 
 
 1867. 
 
•v" 
 
 
 Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1866, by 
 
 Thomas F. De Voe, 
 
 in the Clerk's Office of the District Court for the Southern District of New York. 
 
PREFACE, 
 
 I have introduced myself to the public in the first volume of 
 " The Market Book," by giving them a history of the Public 
 Market-places in the city of New York from the earliest settle- 
 ment, with numerous and curious incidents, more particularly 
 relating to the local history of that city. It was also my inten- 
 tion to have included in the second volume of that work much of 
 the matter which I have placed in this. The dreadful Rebellion, 
 however, commenced with the attack on Fort Sumter the day 
 after I had arranged for the publishing of (" The Market Book") 
 the first, volume, and I concluded to wait for the suppression of 
 the Rebellion before entering upon the second. In the mean 
 time my gathering notes had accumulated to such formidable 
 dimensions that I was compelled to divide the useful from the 
 historical ; the first of which is presented in this volume, called 
 " The Market Assistant ;" and the latter will soon appear in the 
 second volume of " The Market Book." 
 
 The object of this volume is to present that which may be 
 found practically useful as well as interesting. It aims at bring- 
 ing together, in as small compass as possible and in a form easy 
 of reference, those items of information which many would desire 
 to possess when called upon to cater for the household. In order 
 fully to carry out the practical views here indicated, this work is 
 divided into several headings ; all of which, however, harmonize 
 into one connecting form, " What we eat? 1 Domestic, or Tame An- 
 imals ; Wild Animals, or Animal Game ; Poultry ; Wild Fowl 
 
b PBEFACE. 
 
 and Birds, or Bird Game ; Fish ; Vegetables ; Pot and Medicinal 
 Herbs ; Fruits and Nuts ; Dairy and Household Products, etc. 
 
 The desire to present such a work, has lead me — pleasantly — 
 to employ many of the leisure hours from my professional duties 
 in placing together the thoughts and experience of thirty-five 
 years' observation. 
 
 What I deem the useful is gleaned from the daily wants, and 
 the common expressions of the day — something to eat ! — " What 
 shall we have to-day for dinner ? What is there in our Markets 
 fit to eat ? What kinds of meats, poultry, game, fish, vegetables, 
 and fruits are in season ? What names are given to the different 
 joints of meats, and what dishes are they severally and generally 
 used for ? We have had roasts, steaks, and chops ; and chops, 
 steaks, and roasts, until we are tired of them ! Now, do say, 
 what shall we have for dinner ?" These, with many other excla- 
 mations, are daily discussed, and no one to answer. We, how- 
 ever, claim for this Book a comprehensive answer to all questions 
 of this nature. 
 
 More fully to carry out the views I have entertained in relation 
 to the various articles of food of our citizens, I have thought 
 proper to illustrate with outlined diagram figures of such ani- 
 mals usually portioned out and sold by the public-market butchers, 
 with the various names, as illustrated by the accompanying en- 
 graved cuts of the principal joints ; which are intended to assist 
 in their recognition when called for, as well as to aid in render- 
 ing perfect the dishes commonly made from them. 
 
 I may here remark, that many of these engravings were 
 sketched by me from nature, and, although some of them may 
 not represent what I would wish from them, if so, it is proper 
 here to state that the faulty drawing of such must not rest on the 
 engraver (Stephen Weekes, Esq.), as his reputation in this beauti- 
 ful art must not be impaired by my inexperience as the draughts- 
 man. 
 
PBEFACE. Y 
 
 After the Butchers' Meats will follow a brief description of 
 other articles of food, with the periods of their season or when 
 considered best ; how to judge and select them in the various 
 public market-places. 
 
 In obtaining a more thorough knowledge of many of these 
 articles of food noticed, I have been greatly assisted by the 
 experience of many of the intelligent dealers and others, who 
 have on all occasions evinced a communicative and friendly feel- 
 ing to my oft-repeated visits and numerous inquiries. To enume- 
 rate or name all — with the many and various and useful works, 
 and especially the newspaper press — from which I have derived 
 much interesting matter, would now be impossible, as a long 
 period has elapsed since the commencement of my gatherings took 
 place ; and I can only say, that my indebtedness is hereby 
 acknowledged, with a sincere return of my warmest thanks to 
 each and all for their great assistance. 
 
 Many of the various articles of food are often found in the 
 private markets, or " meat-shops," but never the variety, quantity, 
 or with the same- chance for cheapness, or choice, as are to be 
 found in our established public markets. 
 
 Having had practical experience in both public and private 
 markets, I am free to say, that citizens and others can be best 
 protected and accommodated in public markets — the larger the 
 better — and more especially when the products are obtained from 
 first hands. 
 
 " The market-place" was originally designed, simply to accom- 
 modate the producer and consumer ; a mart where all might 
 meet at certain times — the one to sell and the other to purchase 
 or trade. Eaton, in his review of New York in 1814, gives the 
 reader some idea of " the market-place" at that period, which he 
 presents to us in the following lines : 
 
 " The place where no distinctions are, 
 All sects and colors mingle there, 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 Long folks and short, black folks and gray 
 
 With common bawds, and folks that pray, 
 
 Rich folks and poor, both old and young, 
 
 And good, and bad, and weak, and strong, 
 
 The wise and simple, red and white, 
 
 With those that play and those that fight 
 
 The high, the low, the proud the meek. 
 
 And all one common object seek ; 
 
 For lady, belle, and buck, and lass, 
 
 Here mingle in one common mass, 
 
 Contending all which shall be first, 
 
 To buy the cheapest, best, or worst. 
 
 In fact their object is to get 
 
 Such things as they can 'ford to eat — 
 
 Some beef, some pork, some lamb or veal, 
 
 And those who cannot buy must steal — 
 
 Nothing more clear, I'll tell you why, 
 
 All kinds of folks must eat or die. 
 
 Objects of honor or disgrace, 
 
 Are all seen at the market-place. 
 
 Do you a slothful debtor seek ? 
 
 Go there, and you may with him speak ; 
 
 Seek there a fool, a friend, a foe, 
 
 For all together there will go. 
 
 Are you a painter, and would trace, 
 
 The features of one in distress ? 
 
 Go there, for there you're sure to find, 
 
 An object suited to your mind. 
 
 And do you seek a beauteous form, 
 
 A well- shaped leg or handsome arm? 
 
 Go seek it there, for there are all, 
 
 Of every person since the fall : 
 
 The virgin, matron, husband, child, 
 
 Upon this place have often smiled ; 
 
 Whate'er you want, you'll find it there, 
 
 There's every thing, and every where 
 
 But those who are on killing bent, 
 
 Alone shall feel my chastisement ; 
 
 In Boston these, 'tis said have not, 
 
 Or common sense or feelings got ; 
 
 And therefore they are not allowed, 
 
 The common jurors' seat to crowd j 
 
 But butchers here, like other men, 
 
 Have common sense end sense of pain ; 
 
 These weigh the meat, and you must know, 
 
 
PREFACE. V 
 
 The meat side of the scale is low, 
 
 And wants your care to balance it, 
 
 If you would have your proper weight, 
 
 Or else two pounds of beef, you'll see, 
 
 Will just two pounds odd ounces be 
 
 The rich, who buy a stately piece, 
 
 Will scarcely know their meats decrease ; 
 
 But 'tis the poor, who little buy, 
 
 That miss their meat, and wonder why. 
 
 Tis thus with some — but not with all — 
 
 For many, from the loaded stall, 
 
 With balance even, weigh the meat, 
 
 Too honest to defraud or cheat.*" 
 
 Now, we find, " the market-place" assumes another aspect — a 
 change which time and circumstances have created. The pro- 
 ducer is often hundreds of miles in one direction, while the con- 
 sumer may be as many hundred in another, from the mart at 
 which the productions were sold and purchased. Through the 
 course of the year, the products of the North, South, East, and 
 West, are to be found in our large public market-places ; from 
 which great quantities are disposed of, to be consumed in other 
 cities, towns, or villages, or on the many ocean or river steamers 
 or other vessels, as well as in foreign countries. 
 
 A great trade has imperceptibly grown upon us (particularly 
 in New York), which I have sometimes thought, would have 
 been more profitable to both producer and consumer, if proper 
 laws, and practical, honest heads, had been placed over these 
 vast interests, which so much affect the general health and com- 
 fort, as well as the pockets of our over-taxed citizens ; and I 
 cannot avoid the conclusion, that if our public markets were 
 properly conducted, they would be highly advantageous, not only 
 to the city and citizens, but to all who have occasion to obtain 
 supplies, as they facilitate the voluntary inspection, as well as 
 the comparison of every article offered for sale in them, and they 
 also concentrate the trade by which the people are protected 
 from imposition. 
 
10 PEEFACE. 
 
 This great metropolis should have her public markets as 
 objects of our city's pride, by having proper and substantial 
 buildings, kept orderly, cleanly, well-arranged and officered, when 
 they could be visited by strangers in safety and comfort, as well 
 as by all her citizens, who would find pleasure and exercise in 
 the performance of a necessary and agreeable duty. 
 
 Thomas F. De Yoe, 
 
 Butcher, 
 Jefferson Market, 
 
 City of New York, 1864. 
 
WHAT WE EAT. 11 
 
 WHAT WE EAT. 
 
 The first natural demand of man is food to nourish his 
 wasting system, and for this purpose he has been bounti- 
 fully provided for with an extensive choice, furnished by the 
 various productions of both land and water. Man in his 
 natural state, like the wild beasts of the forest, consumes 
 food naturally and spontaneously obtained ; but civilized 
 man, luxuriously trained and educated, obtains his principal 
 support from artificial food, or that which has been pro- 
 duced by his skill and labor ; and thus we find that the wild 
 and cultivated animals, as well as the natural and cultiva- 
 ted plants, is the proper and sole food for cultivated man. 
 
 " Man is a carnivorous production, 
 
 And must have meals at least once a day • 
 He cannot live, like woodcocks, upon suction, 
 But, like the shark and tiger, must have prey." 
 
 The various fruits, grain, roots, and herbs, with flesh, fish, 
 and fowl, all contribute to the sustenance of man, or rather, 
 to furnish the daily wants, and to supply the wear and tear 
 of his body. The perfect conformation of man's organiza- 
 tion is capable of converting into nourishment every pecu- 
 liarity of food, and separating the nutritive portions of 
 every variety from each production. 
 
 Authors agree that animal food is found to be strongly 
 nourishing, and, when extensively used, it is too heating and 
 stimulating, and, withal, overworks the digestive organs, 
 which, after a time, exhausts and debilitates the body ; 
 while, on the other hand, a pure vegetable diet seems in- 
 sufficient to secure to the human system all the strength 
 and vigor of which it is capable, although thousands of in- 
 
12 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 dividuals live almost entirely on the latter, but it is found 
 they are seldom so robust, so active, or so brave. Physi- 
 ologists, therefore, are of opinion that a mixed diet of an- 
 imal and vegetable food is best suited to the nature and con- 
 stitution of man. In warm climates, however, meat is found 
 less desirable than any other kind of food. 
 
 "All animals, with but few exceptions, are used as food by 
 various nations of men, although that which is selected as a 
 delicacy by one country is refused as unfit and loathsome by 
 another. The Englishman refuses to dine on Snails with 
 an Italian, on Frogs with a Frenchman, on Horseflesh with 
 the Tartars, or on the Crocodile, Toad, or Locust with the 
 African. 
 
 "A traveller, in the last century, remarked to certain 
 Arabs that he wondered at their eating insects so disgusting 
 as Locusts ; to which they replied, with some show of rea- 
 son, that it savored of affectation in a person who could 
 swallow an Oyster to be startled by any thing in the way 
 of eating." 
 
 " The Americans will not eat horses, asses, dogs, cats, rats, 
 or mice, but they are all used as food, and some as great 
 luxuries, in other countries." 
 
 In Africa the natives eat Ants stewed in Palm Oil, and 
 the large Termites, or White Ants, are roasted in iron pots 
 and eaten by handfuls, as sugar-plums ; and as for Locusts, 
 Dr. Phipson says they are far from dreading their inva- 
 sions, but look upon a dense cloud of Locusts as we would 
 look upon a miracle of Bread and Butter floating in the air. 
 They smoke them, or salt them, or boil them, or stew them, 
 or grind them down as Corn, and get fat on them. 
 
 " Lo ! the poor Indian, who untutored feeds 
 On Locusts, Beetles, Frogs, and Centipedes ! 
 His taste keen hunger never taught to sigh 
 For Beef, Veal, Mutton, Pork, or Pumpkin Pie ; 
 But thinks, admitted to that equal feast, 
 All things are good for man as well as beast." 
 
 It is also found that Horseflesh is not an uncommon arti- 
 
WHAT WE EAT. 13 
 
 cle of food, either in Denmark, Sweden, Norway, and other 
 places, where it is publicly exposed for sale in their public 
 markets. It is upon record that about the year 1810, in 
 the town of Christiana, Norway, four hundred horses had 
 been killed for the consumption of that town for a period 
 of a little over two years. We also find it asserted by 
 M. Duchatelet that a very large quantity is consumed in 
 Paris. The Knackers (Horse-slayers) and their families, 
 who live principally on it, have a remarkably robust and 
 healthy appearance. Surgeon Larrey also states that the 
 French armies, during many campaigns under Napoleon I., 
 were greatly indebted to Horseflesh for the means of subsist- 
 ence. A correspondent from Yienna to the " New York 
 Times," 1855, gives a favorable account of its use in that 
 city, as follows : " The consumption of Horseflesh by the 
 poorest classes, which for the past two years has been more 
 and more resorted to, tends to check any rapid rise in Beef 
 and the common meats. While good roasts and bake- 
 pieces cost fifteen kreutzers the pound — not even so high as 
 in New York — Horseflesh is bought for five kreutzers. An 
 acquaintance who has eaten beef-steak from this meat — would 
 it do to call it horse-steak ? — assures me that it does not 
 taste at all bad — that it is indeed a delicacy — and argues 
 from the nature of the food of the two, that horseflesh is a 
 much choicer diet than fried chicken. It may seem to show 
 how well the poorer classes like it, to state that within the 
 past few weeks, in Hamburg, if I remember rightly, the 
 price of this article of food has risen to almost its former 
 rate, owing to the increased demand." 
 
 Mule-meat has also been spoken of as being excellent 
 eating ; although its trial took place under peculiar circum- 
 stances, yet it was compared with horseflesh and such beef 
 as was in the possession of the besieged rebels while caged 
 in Port Hudson. A Confederate oflicer who has, or is, pre- 
 paring a detailed account of what took place inside of this 
 fortification during its beleaguerment, says that when (29th 
 of June, 1863) "the last quarter-ration of beef had been 
 
14 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 given out to the troops, on the 1st of July, at the request of 
 many officers, a wounded mule was killed and cut up for 
 experimental eating. All those who partook of it spoke 
 highly of the dish : the flesh of mules being of a darker 
 color than beef, of a finer grain, quite tender and juicy, and 
 as having a flavor between that of beef and venison. There 
 was an immediate demand for this kind of food, and the 
 number of mules killed by the commissariat daily increased. 
 Some horses were also slaughtered, and their flesh was 
 found to be very good eating, but not equal to the mule. 
 Eats, of which there were plenty about the deserted camps, 
 were also caught by many officers and men, and were found 
 to be quite a luxury — superior, in the opinion of those who 
 ate them, to spring-chicken." 
 
 The ancients appear to have been rather singular in their 
 choice of diet, as Dick, in his " Diet and Regime," says — 
 " They used neither buckwheat, nor French Beans, nor Spin- 
 ach, nor Sage, Tapioca, Saless, Arrowroot, nor Potato or its 
 varieties, nor even the common, but a sort of marsh-grown 
 Bean, nor many of our fruits, as the Orange, Tamarinds, nor 
 American Maize. On the other hand, they ate substances 
 which we now neglect : the MaUoiv, the herb Ox Tongue, the 
 sweet Acorn, the Lupin. They used greatly Radish, Lettuce, 
 Sorrel ; they liked the flesh of wild Asses, of little Dogs, of 
 the Dormouse, of the Fox, of the Bear. They ate the flesh 
 of Parroquets, and other rare birds, and of Lizards. They 
 were fond of a great many fish and shell-fish which we now 
 hold in no esteem. They employed as seasoning Bue and 
 Assafcetida." 
 
 An amusing article on diet, written above one hundred 
 years ago, is found in a London paper called " St. James' 
 Chronicle," dated November 6, 1762, and thus reads : — 
 " There is no affectation more ridiculous than the antipa- 
 thies which many whimsical people entertain with respect 
 to diet. One will swoon at a Breast of Veal ; another can't 
 bear the sight of a Sucking-pig ; and another owes as great 
 a grudge to a Shoulder of Mutton as Petruchio, in the farce. 
 
WHA1 WE EAT. 15 
 
 How often does ifc happen in company that we are debarred 
 of a necessary ingredient in a salad because somebody, for- 
 sooth, cannot touch oil ! And what a rout is made, whisk- 
 ing away the cheese off the table, without our being suffered 
 to have a morsel of this grand digester, if any one should 
 happen to declare his dislike to it ! 
 
 " There are others of an equally fantastic disposition, 
 who, as we may say, choose to quarrel with their bread and 
 butter. These are eternally suspicious that their food is 
 not sweet. They bring their plates up to their noses, or 
 their noses down to their plates, at every thing that is put 
 upon them. Their stomachs are so delicately nice that they 
 descry a fault in all they eat. The fish is stale, the mutton is 
 rank, or the suet in the pudding is musty. I have an aunt 
 who almost starves herself on account of her squeamishness 
 in this particular. At one time she is sure the sheep died of 
 the rot ; at another the pork is measly ; and she would not 
 touch a bit of beef all the time of the distemper among the 
 horned cattle. Veal she detests, because, she says, it is 
 well known the Butchers blow it up with their nasty breath ; 
 besides, the Calves have brine given them to make their 
 flesh white. She used to declare House-Lamb to be the only 
 wholesome food, because the innocent creatures were fed 
 with nothing but their mother's milk ; but she has lately 
 taken disgust to this likewise, since she has been told that 
 some rascally butchers keep large mastiff-bitches on pur- 
 pose for their Lambs to suck. 
 
 " I dined with her yesterday, when she made an apology 
 for the Beef not being salt enough, saying that she was 
 under a necessity of boiling it too soon, as she did not think 
 it safe to buy any meat yet awhile, on account of the late 
 inundations ; for she was apprehensive that the drowned 
 carcasses of hogs, sheep, and other cattle would make their 
 way up to the London shambles. I was surprised that a 
 suspicion of this sort should have entered her head, but 
 more surprised still to find it hinted at afterwards by the fol- 
 lowing advertisement in the ' Public Advertiser' of Monday : 
 
16 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 " * The Master and Wardens of the Butchers' Company do 
 hereby acquaint the public that they have not been able 
 (notwithstanding the utmost care and assiduity has been 
 used by them) to find that any of the hogs or sheep that 
 were drowned in the late unhappy floods, have been exposed 
 to sale within this city or the suburbs thereof. 
 
 " ' %^* Any person that sends notice to the Company, at 
 their hall in Pudding Lane, of any casualty or unwholesome 
 flesh of any sort that is exposed for sale, so that the same 
 may be seized, will receive the thanks of the Company, and 
 be a Mend to the public in general, the Company being de- 
 termined to prosecute all persons selling casualty or un- 
 wholesome flesh.' 
 
 " * I cannot help observing that it seems odd the butchers 
 themselves should sound the alarm about casualty flesh, which 
 many people otherwise might never have thought of. The 
 fishmongers would never cry stinking fish, and the bakers 
 would be unwilling to have it even supposed that any made 
 use of alum in their bread. I remember, for a great while 
 after the affair of Elizabeth Tofts, the Eabbit-woman, the 
 owners and renters of warrens were all ruined, for persons 
 would as soon eat a cat as a rabbit. Should the like dis- 
 gust prevail against flesh, from the fear of its being casualty 
 flesh, what would become of Smithfield and Leadenhall Mar- 
 kets ? There is, indeed, some danger that people will con- 
 ceive an antipathy against barrelled beef, pickled pork, and 
 all kinds of soused meat, on this occasion ; and it is to be 
 hoped that the contractors for victualling His Majesty's 
 Navy will not buy up any of the drowned cattle, to turn the 
 stomachs of our sailors. The unwholesomeness, however, 
 of casualty flesh I have heard denied by a gentleman, who 
 had been m Italy, and declared that he himself had eaten 
 heartily (without any ill effects) of a hog that was casually 
 barbecued, and an ox that was roasted whole in the erup- 
 tions from Mount Vesuvius." 
 
 The mode of living adopted by some, especially among 
 the rich, who, by their late dinner-hours and sumptuous 
 
WHAT WE EAT. 
 
 feasts, no doubt prepare themselves for early 
 an old author says, "Some stop their breath 
 and earpe ; some poison themselves with soups 2 
 and others stifle nature with cheese-cakes and \ 
 — Divers worthy citizens make custard their 
 And who would think it ? even beef and puddi 
 lie-spirited victuals and good protestants as the 
 are frequently guilty of man-slaughter ; and ma 
 squire, when he escapes drowning in a sea of ( 
 up the springs of life with a rump of beef. 
 
 " Harmless mutton itself does frequent miscL 
 So that the butchers, as well as the 'pothece 
 licensed poisoners of a commonwealth. It ] 
 seem strange that the sacrifices of oxen should 
 of men too, and that ignorant butchers should i 
 the learned of Warwick-lane, and yet the facu 
 it ; for though butchers are tolerably illiteratt 
 yet, as their profession is the killing of brute 1 
 do not see why the college should permit sue 
 Brethren. Alas ! a butcher has but one instruc 
 and that is his knife : and what is that in c 
 Dr. Carlyon also tells us that " Mixtures, an 
 wines are the ruin of half the stomachs in the 
 see : You take, at a dinner-party, soup, a gl; 
 wine-punch perhaps ; turbot and rich lobster i 
 may be, an oyster pate, or a sweet-bread, to ai 
 with while the host is cutting you a slice of t" 
 haunch ; this, with jelly and French beans, is s 
 with a couple of glasses of hock or sauterne a< 
 wing of a partridge or the back of a leveret, s 
 little red hermitage, succeeds ; then you at or 
 and chill your heated stomach with a piece of 
 which you preposterously proceed to warm 
 glass of noyeau or some other liquor : if yoi 
 posed to roguet with a spoonful of jelly in add 
 sure to try a bit of stilton and a piquant sala< 
 of port therewith. At dessert, port, sherry, 
 2 
 
THE MAKKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 ire. This is about the routine of the majority of 
 'es. Such a dinner is, in fact, a hospitable at- . 
 ur life." 
 
 ., we find, will not eat the flesh of any animal 
 
 d by them without it has been killed and ex- 
 
 >ne of their own persuasion, called a shoket (Jew 
 
 ao is appointed by their synagogue, or some 
 
 isiastical authority, as they retain the opinions 
 
 n from " olden times/' concerning the killing 
 
 the table. They also will not eat guinea fowls, 
 
 other ducks, having fleshy crests, besides bears, 
 
 irrels, etc. ; but such game as deer, partridges, 
 
 rhen trapped, or otherwise caught alive, and 
 
 hohet, their flesh is then accepted. 
 
 icular manner of slaughtering a bullock is by 
 
 and legs slung, and hoisted high enough to 
 
 its fore-feet. The shoket, or "cutter," as he is 
 
 .own among butchers, stands ready with his 
 
 *d, keen knife, waiting to have the animal's 
 
 upwards, which is done by those who dress the 
 
 with one hand, the left, pinches up the skin 
 
 :, and, with the knife in the other hand, lays 
 
 * to the point, on the throat. He then, with a 
 
 thrust forward, and a sudden draw back, with- 
 
 e knife, divides the flesh and the jugular veins. 
 
 )ubt, the best mode of more fully clearing the 
 
 lood : the Jews believing that the blood is the 
 
 Mosaic law, which forbids the destruction of 
 
 rocess of skinning has commenced, the shoket 
 domen, and with his hand examines, by feel- 
 s, liver, etc. ; and, if found in a sound and 
 ition, he places seals, stamped with Hebrew 
 ily on the fore-quarters,, which particularly 
 iy of the month when slaughtered; and the 
 is then termed cosher, or good Jew or Hebrew 
 or their use. Twenty years ago, these seals, 
 
WHAT WE EAT. 19 
 
 which were then used, were made of lead, but, since that 
 period, they have used thick paper and wax. 
 
 If, however, the animal is found defective, either with 
 lungs grown fast to the side, liver diseased, or any other 
 abnormal or^ unhealthy indications of disease (which is 
 seldom the case with a thriving fat young animal), the 
 shoket pronounces it trifa, or unfit to be used by them ; 
 then it is not sealed, but resold to those whose religious 
 scruples may be no bar to its use. 
 
 The gut-fat of the cosher animal is also sealed, and used 
 in the place of suet (which is never used by the strict Jews) 
 for all cooking purposes. 
 
 The hind-quarters of the animals thus slaughtered are not 
 sealed, and therefore not eaten in this country by the strict 
 Jews, although their laws allow of their being eaten when 
 operated upon by the professional porcher ; but as there are 
 none known or recognized by them in the United States, 
 this choice part is left without seals. The operation of the 
 porcher is in the difficult performance of extracting the 
 blood, fat, veins, and sinews, numbering above fifty, recog- 
 nized by them in the hind-quarters; and I am told they 
 count one hundred and eleven in the whole body, but those 
 from the fore-quarter are more easily removed. 
 
 They point to the cause of their refusal to eat the flesh 
 from the hind-quarters (and, in fact, to all their different 
 laws, customs, and belief), to the Old Testament, more par- 
 ticularly, on this point, to Genesis xxxii. 32 : " Therefore 
 the children of Israel eat not of the sinew which shrank, 
 which is upon the hollow of the thigh, unto this day, be- 
 cause he touched the hollow of Jacob's thigh in the sinew 
 that shrank." 
 
 This shoket is paid by the society in which he worships, 
 an annual salary, and, in addition, a perquisite from the 
 owners of the animals which he slaughters. 
 
 The edible productions of the present day, considered fit 
 for human food, are very numerous, some of which are the 
 greatest delicacies, while others of them the simplest food, 
 
20 THE MAKKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 with prices to correspond with their scarcity, rarity, or 
 plentifulness. Many, of course, are unseasonable and un- 
 natural to this climate; but by artificial means, and the 
 swift steam-engine, they have become and are looked for as 
 " things in season." In fact, the public market-place in the 
 various cities under consideration, furnishes us with a " Bill 
 of Fare" which includes almost every article known ; among 
 which we have from the North, the moose and bear meat, 
 salmon, mascalonge, white-fish, pike, and drawn poultry ; 
 the sea-shore — East — furnishes us with shore-birds, fowl, 
 sea-fish, oysters, and lobsters ; from the South comes the 
 early and fine Bermuda potatoes, onions, peas, oranges, 
 bananas, and early shad, with the excellent wild duck from 
 the Potomac ; while the West pours in her wild-fowl, veni- 
 son, poultry, butter, all of which comes by the millions of 
 pounds weight, through the course of the year. 
 
 In order to arrange these various productions, and other 
 subjects treated of, I have placed them under the following 
 different heads, viz. : Going to Market ; Domestic or Tame 
 Animals; Beef; Veal; Mutton; Lamb; Pigs, Hogs, and 
 Pork ; Goats' Flesh ; The Parts we use from Domestic Ani- 
 mals ; Wild Animals, called Game ; Poultry ; Wild-Fowl and 
 Birds called Game ; Fish ; Fish, Large and Abundant ; Fish, 
 Small and Abundant ; Fish, Large and Scarce ; Fish, Small 
 and Scarce ; Shell-Fish ; Vegetables ; Pot Herbs, Medicinal, 
 and other Plants; Fruit; Nuts; Dairy and Household Pro- 
 ducts ; Pot Plants, Roots, and Bouquets ; Economy in the use 
 of Meals ; Hung Meats ; Bleeding Animals ; and Cooks and 
 Cookery. 
 
 The first in the above arrangement appears somewhat im- 
 portant, as well as necessary, to assist the young house- 
 keeper in purchasing the market supplies wanted, and per- 
 haps a few hints on the subject will be acceptable to her or 
 any others interested. They will appear under the head — 
 
GOING- TO MARKET. 21 
 
 GOING TO MAEKET. 
 
 Some fifty years ago it was the common custom for the 
 thrifty " old New Yorker," when going to market, to start 
 with the break of day, and carry along with him the large 
 " market-basket," then considered a very necessary appen- 
 dage for this occasion. His early visit gave him the desired 
 opportunity to select the cuts of meat wanted from the best 
 animals ; to meet the farmer's choice productions, either poul- 
 try, vegetables, or fruit, and catch the lively, jumping fish, 
 which, ten minutes before, were swimming in the fish-cars. 
 
 Soon after followed the " good housewife," who would not 
 trust anybody but herself to select a fine young turkey, or a 
 pair of chickens or ducks, which she kept hold of until the 
 bargain allowed her to place the coveted articles in her ca- 
 pacious basket, that was being carried by a stout servant, 
 who also carried a bright tin, covered kettle, ready to re- 
 ceive several nice rolls of butter, so cleanly and neatly cov- 
 ered with white linen cloths. 
 
 The modern "marketer" will still occasionally observe 
 some "relics of the past," who cling to the old custom 
 taught them in their youth, perhaps, by an honored sire, 
 who was not too proud to carry home a well-filled market- 
 basket, containing his morning purchase, which his purse or 
 taste prompted him to select. These old-fashioned ideas, 
 alas ! are all lived down, and we reluctantly turn from them, 
 as we would from an interesting but worn-out book to pe- 
 ruse the pages of modern composition. 
 
 We now find many heads of families who never visit the 
 public markets, who are either supplied through the butcher 
 or other dealers in our markets, or by their stewards or 
 other servants, or by some that may be termed go-between- 
 speculators, who take orders for marketing, groceries, etc., on 
 their own hook ; and, of course, they purchase the various ar- 
 ticles of those who will give them the largest percentages. 
 I am sorry, however, to be compelled to state that there are 
 
22 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 but few of jthis species of help, or market assistants, who can 
 lay claim to the title of trustworthy. 
 
 It is, therefore, as necessary for our health as it is to our 
 interest to obtain the knowledge of what we desire to pur- 
 chase, that the articles shall be what they are represented 
 to be, and that they are furnished at the regular market 
 price. 
 
 To market well, then, requires much experience, although 
 many rules might be introduced, but they would be seldom 
 successfully followed. Practice gives the looks, smell, feel- 
 ing, and many signs that are almost indescribable, and 
 which are formed from close observation. 
 
 Many dealers know too well how to disguise an inferior 
 article, so as to deceive those who have but little knowledge 
 of marketing ; although a lower price may be demanded, 
 such provisions are dear from the fact of their inferior qual- 
 ity, and when prepared are neither relished nor half con- 
 sumed — perchance they are wholly wasted. 
 
 Another class of dealers, while they furnish good articles, 
 they do not fail to obtain exorbitant prices, of such a char- 
 acter as to come under the name of extortion. To succeed 
 in such extortions, different modes of misrepresentation are 
 adopted, which, in our plain vernacular, might be termed 
 absolute lying — " business lying," white or black lying, or 
 any other lying the reader may choose to designate the 
 system. 
 
 Their articles are represented as being — " The very best 
 that were ever produced !" — " The finest and largest you 
 ever saw!"—" Could not be better!"—" Eirst-rate !"— " Excel- 
 lent !" — " Elegant !"— " Beautiful !"— " Splendid !"— " Can't 
 be beat !" — " As cheap as dirt !" and " Can't be got else- 
 where !" 
 
 One day I heard a military hero say to a person who was 
 extolling a good common goose, and enlarging on the nu- 
 merous splendid accessories surrounding it — "Why, your 
 geese are all sivans — I do not want any of them. I merely 
 want a good young goose, about that size." 
 
GOING TO MAEKET. 23 
 
 The numerous falsehoods sometimes told, are expressed 
 with such appearance of innocence, that many really feel 
 that what they say must be " the truth, the whole truth, and 
 nothing but the truth," and so accede to their extortionate 
 demands. This class of dealers effect more business and 
 succeed better than the honest, conscientious dealer, who, 
 when asked, " Is this article the best I can get ?" will answer, 
 " I should not like to say it is, but I think it is as good." 
 Such an answer is not always a satisfactory one to the ques- 
 tioner, as he would require one of certainty, or — " It is the 
 very best that. comes to the markets, and you cannot get it 
 elsewhere so good, nor so cheap." This appears to be a 
 great fault with many purchasers, that to induce them to 
 buy the dealers must bespatter their articles with a dozen 
 falsehoods, and sometimes fifteen or twenty per cent, above 
 the market price, before the purchasers are fully satisfied 
 with their bargains. 
 
 This wretched system or custom, we find, generally per- 
 vades everywhere, and in every business, where goods and 
 other property are exposed to sale ; both men and women, 
 merchants and mechanics, tradesmen and salesmen, in fact 
 all kinds, are afflicted with this prevailing tongue-disease of 
 exaggeration. 
 
 This dishonest custom gives the honest salesman or pur- 
 veyor but little satisfaction while doing business, as they 
 are often subjected to many petty annoyances, which usually 
 come from those whose education should teach them better. 
 There are others who are deficient of this desideratum, who 
 claim from the lack of educated honesty some charity and 
 excuse for their acts. We occasionally find among pur- 
 chasers some who are known as " shoppers" and " runners," 
 who make no difference where they trade, so long as it shall 
 be the best article at a low price ; and to make a sale to 
 such the market-price must generally be reduced ; and when 
 that is done, suspicion steps into the " shopper's" mind, who 
 examines and re-examines, with question after question, 
 whether " perfectly good, tender, and sweet ;" and upon 
 
24 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 being answered in the affirmative, the " shopper" often turns 
 from the dealer with a supercilious gesticulation, as if they 
 placed no confidence in the recommendation. We recur to 
 an instance where a lady had several times treated a butcher 
 to this negative treatment to his recommended meat, when 
 she was, by him, impressed with this well-merited retort : 
 " My previous answers, in relation to the quality of meat 
 which you several times before selected, have not received 
 such attention as was expected from you ; hereafter you 
 will be obliged to judge for yourself." She was not a pur- 
 chaser on that occasion, but afterwards she gave no further 
 trouble in this respect. 
 
 There are other dealers, again, who use much of what 
 may be termed outside deceit— that is, by placing some 
 attractive mark or emblem, in the way of flags, ribbons, 
 signs, etc., to represent the articles so dressed and deco- 
 rated as being either premium or prize or superior, or some 
 extraordinary quality about them, from the good or general 
 average of what they should represent ; and this is done for 
 the purpose of procuring a higher price for an inferior 
 article. In fact, I have heard it said : " I put ribbons and 
 flags on my meat to make it sell for a good price, as I 
 am bound to make money some way or another." This 
 method this class adopt as a " legitimate manner of doing 
 business." 
 
 The safest plan for the inexperienced is to select respect- 
 able dealers, on whom they can rely. They may charge 
 higher prices for that which they furnish ; in the end, how- 
 ever, more satisfaction is afforded, by less risk, and more 
 saving and relish — in fact, cheaper in every way, because all 
 good articles are with profit used — that, while the best 
 articles may cost more money in the purchase thereof, they 
 will be found to be the most economical in the end. 
 
 On the other view, unprincipled dealers are always ready 
 for what they term chances, either by giving short weight, 
 short measure, or short change ; and, if they are detected, 
 " Why, it's a mistake !" or, if he (or she) think that bluster- 
 
GOING TO MAKKET. 25 
 
 ing, or loud and harsh words, will frighten the wronged pur- 
 chaser, this mode of tactics is brought to bear. 
 
 Many respectable purchasers, not having the time to go 
 to the public markets, will sometimes purchase of the 
 " cheap shops," or street-pedlers, many of whom are still 
 worse than those we haye already spoken of, especially 
 street-pedlers, who cannot be found when their fraud or 
 deceit is too late discovered. 
 
 A few years ago, one of the city sealers of weights and 
 measures, in one of the districts of our (New York) city, 
 collected fifty-four measures, from grocers and wagon- 
 pedlers, that fell short of the standard. A half-bushel fell 
 short three and a half quarts ; twenty-one half -peck meas- 
 ures fell short about one quart each ; fifteen two-quart 
 measures were short six quarts in the aggregate ; and six- 
 teen one-quart measures were short, in the aggregate, six 
 quarts. 
 
 An old law, as well as a long-standing custom, makes it 
 incumbent upon the seller that all articles subject to be 
 sold by the measure — such as apples, peaches, potatoes, 
 and others of a round, oval, or flat conformation — shall be 
 heaped up above the even line of the measures, to make up 
 for the interspaces between the irregularities of such articles 
 of food, etc. 
 
 The fish, fruit, vegetables, etc., which are usually peddled 
 about the streets in carts and wagons, are seldom found so 
 good as those offered for sale in the public markets, they 
 being either the refuse of the markets, unfit to be offered 
 by the respectable dealer, or it happens to be a glut, or 
 very large quantities offered ; and, even then, their selec- 
 tions are generally of those which sell at the lowest price ; 
 then, in their sales through the streets, their false-bot- 
 tomed measures, short weights, or their stale or unfit 
 articles, are detected by examination ; they are off, and 
 not to be found, until the frauds and their persons are 
 forgotten. 
 
 When the purchaser desires to be served through orders 
 
26 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 by the butcher, or others, it is best that they should have 
 such latitude or choice of sending the purchaser that which 
 they may have in the best condition for immediate use. If 
 it be for a roast, it should be either a rib, sirloin, or other 
 piece of beef; or leg, loin, saddle, or shoulder of mutton; 
 or fore or hind quarter of lamb ; or fillet, loin, shoulder, or 
 breast of veal ; or turkey, capons, chickens, venison, par- 
 tridges, or grouse, etc. If for a boil, a leg of mutton, rump 
 or round, plate, navel, or brisket of corned beef ; and the 
 same, in fact, with all the various dishes. 
 
 Without particular joints, or other articles, are ordered 
 for an arranged or " dinner-party," it is then best, as well as 
 proper, to give notice a day or two before, that the butcher, 
 or other, may prepare a particular, prime, or choice article, 
 such as may not only please the purchaser, but will give 
 the butcher, or other dealer, some satisfaction — as it is 
 gratifying to the conscientious dealer to hear that his joints 
 or other articles were praised, as it is to those who pay for 
 that which is acceptable and pleasing to them. 
 
 DOMESTIC OR TAME ANIMALS. 
 
 The domestic or tame animals which are usually pre- 
 pared by the butchers into meat, produce one of the chief 
 articles of food in our daily supplies ; and the first among 
 these animals stands the ox, one of the richest gifts to man, 
 being useful to the farmer as a faithful worker, a great 
 assistant in enriching his land, and then as a mill to grind 
 his surplus fodder into beef, while every thing about him, 
 from his hoofs to his horns, is profitable for some purpose 
 or other. 
 
 Nearly all of these animals, while living, are known by 
 the names given to them by our Anglo-Saxon fathers ; but, 
 when slaughtered and dressed, their flesh assumes another 
 name, as the ox, with its varieties — the bullock, steer, cow, 
 heifer, stag, and bull — are changed to beef; sheep, consist- 
 
DOMESTIC OB TAME ANIMALS. 27 
 
 ing of the wether, ewe, stag, buck or ram, are changed to 
 mutton; calf, to that of veal; hog, i. e., pig, shoat, barrow, 
 sow, stag, hog, and boar, to that of pork. The same 
 changes will also apply to some species ol wild animals. 
 
 Beef, mutton, lamb, veal, and pork, are usually found 
 throughout the year, in its various seasonable preparations, 
 in all the public markets, and they may be reasonably con- 
 sidered " always in season ;" but there are certain months 
 in the year when each are found in greater perfection than 
 at other periods of the year, although, when a sound, 
 healthy animal has been properly fed and prepared, the 
 flesh will be found to be excellent eating in any part of the 
 yeai\ The additional advantage of a cool atmosphere (not 
 freezing the flesh), permitting it to hang for several days, 
 or even weeks, such flesh as beef, mutton, lamb, venison, 
 etc., will render them not only tender, but also add much to 
 the richness of their flavor. I may here also add, that the 
 flesh of all animals, poultry, and game (drawn), is much 
 better in the warm weather, when it can be placed in a 
 cool cellar ; a deep well (tied in a linen bag, and hung by a 
 rope near the water), a refrigerator, or an ice-house, for a 
 day or two, will render the flesh cool and firm enough for 
 good eating. 
 
 When it is necessary to send or carry any kind of fresh 
 provisions great distances — such as butcher-meat, poultry, 
 game, or fish — either article should first be kept in a re- 
 frigerator, or other cold place, until thoroughly cooled, then 
 wrapped in a coarse linen cloth, around which should be 
 placed cabbage-leaves (or other green leaves), and the whole 
 again wrapped and tied up in a coarse cloth, and placed in 
 a basket, when the articles may be carried from six to ten 
 hours without the danger of becoming sour or tainted. 
 Poultry, game, or fish should be drawn, and a piece of 
 charcoal, wrapped in a thin linen rag, be. inserted into the 
 drawn parts ; as the intestines, when left in, are apt to give 
 the flesh a disagreeable flavor. 
 
 Beef and mutton are usually found best from November 
 
28 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 to May, from the fact that those animals producing this 
 flesh are then generally " grain or stall fed," although those 
 fed, or which are fattened, on roots, pumpkins, or grass, 
 produce good, sweet, and tender meats ; but it has not the 
 weight, substance, or heart that is found in "stall-fed" 
 meat. From a letter written to B. P. Johnson, Esq., Secre- 
 tary of the New York State Agricultural Society, found in 
 their " Transactions" (1852, vol. xii., p. 282), the following 
 extract refers to this subject : " You are aware, no doubt, 
 that the greatest quantity of ' barrelled beef ' sent to foreign 
 markets is packed in the West. Great portions are of 
 young cattle, fattened on grass, principally of a quick and 
 large growth, and are what we New York butchers call 
 1 grass-fed beef.' " The beef when fresh will eat soft, ten- 
 der, juicy, and sweet, but will not have the delicious flavor, 
 solidity, firmness, weight, or the heart or nourishment that 
 the stall-fed (with grain) beef has. It appears to me, as 
 soon as the salt touches "grass-fed beef" it draws back, 
 shrinks into a smaller compass, and changes to a dark 
 color, as if there was not firmness or solidity to resist the 
 action of the salt ; and when boiled, especially if salted a 
 long time, will shrink very much, leaving it tasteless, juice- 
 less, without heart or substance, and, when cut, of a dark 
 color. "Stall-fed beef," on the contrary, is like corn-fed 
 pork, which has the appearance (when properly cured) 
 of being firmer, brighter, plumper, or has a swelled look, as 
 if the well-mixed fat protected the lean parts of the flesh. 
 We seldom hear of farmers, or others, salting down " grass 
 or milk fed pork." They pen them up, and feed as much 
 corn, generally, as the animal will take, for sometimes 
 months before slaughtering ; and when they are salted — I 
 quote an old saying — " Put one pound of corn-fed pork in 
 the pot, it comes out two," which will apply to " stall-fed 
 beef." 
 
 Animals in sound health, which have been fairly fed, will 
 have a layer of fat between the skin and the flesh or 
 muscles. This may be termed the outside fat or back fat. 
 
DOMESTIC OK TAME ANIMALS. 29 
 
 The fat will also be mixed in and through the muscles them- 
 selves, according to the quantity and quality of the feeding. 
 When highly fed the flesh increases, the back fat thickens, 
 the muscles become marbled with small particles of fat 
 throughout the body, and a large collection of fat around 
 the kidneys, which butchers call suet, to designate it from 
 the common meat or flesh fat. 
 
 I may here observe, that it is artificial or over-feeding 
 that produces the prize, choice, and extra-large fine cattle, 
 sheep, etc., sometimes exhibited at our fairs and cattle- 
 markets. 
 
 BEEF. 
 
 In relation to the best cattle for beef, the question may 
 properly be asked, Which among the varieties of neat-cattle 
 will generally produce the best or choicest eating beef? 
 
 This point, I am well aware, many of our most respect- 
 able butchers, epicures, and others, will honestly differ in. I, 
 however, shall present the experience which has brought 
 me in contact with all sorts and sizes, shades and colors, 
 and not only by hundreds, but by thousands, from the poor- 
 est, toughest " old bull," used for jerked-beef, to feed the 
 slaves of the West Indies, to that of the choicest — the win- 
 ners of many first-prizes — which have been so elaborately 
 prepared, both to tickle the palates of the many epicures 
 and lovers of good beef, and also to gain the admiration of 
 thousands. Notwithstanding this, my observations may not 
 be correct ; they, however, are my convictions. I therefore 
 proceed to place them in the order as they appear, as fol- 
 lows : 
 
 First — Spayed Heifer, from four to seven years old. 
 
 Second — Steer or bullock (never worked), from four to six 
 years old. 
 
 Third — Free Martin (or barren heifer), not over eight 
 years old. 
 
30 THE MAKKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 . Fourth — Ox, from five to eight years old. 
 
 Fifth— Heifer, " three to four 
 
 Sixth— Cow, " " to eight 
 
 Sevenths-Stag, " " to " 
 
 Fighth— Bull, " two to six " 
 
 In the above arrangement I have placed the Spayed 
 Heifer first — from four to seven years old — as generally af- 
 fording the best and choicest beef. I mean, of course, with 
 the same breed, care, and partaking of the same feeding. 
 My reasons for this are : that she is more docile and quiet, 
 a gentler disposition, not apt to roam or run so much as the 
 common heifer or steer, and therefore she will naturally 
 flesh and thrive faster, while her nerves, muscles, or flesh 
 and fat, are rendered more tender from her general quietude. 
 I do not pretend to assert that this quiet manner of growing 
 beef will produce that which shall be the most nutritious 
 and wholesome, because this question must be left to scien- 
 tific research ; my wish here is to show that which shall 
 prove the most profitable, tender, and well-tasted beef. 
 
 The usual appearance of the above-described Spayed 
 Heifer, or fine steer, beef, when first cut with a knife, or af- 
 terwards, when it has laid together against or on marble, a 
 dish, etc., it will be found to be quite a dark red color ; but 
 the action of the air, on being exposed to it, in five minutes 
 after will change its color to a clear cherry red. 
 
 This beef will also have a juicy or sappy appearance, with 
 a fine smooth grain to the touch, and in cold weather (or if 
 it has been thoroughly cooled by the aid of ice) it should 
 present a well-mixed or marbled appearance. The fat, both 
 outside and through the muscles, presents a clear, straw- 
 colored appearance, and that on the outside should entirely 
 cover the back of the loin and ribs, in some parts not less 
 than half an inch. The kidney-fat, or suet, should be so 
 large, or so well filled up under or inside the loin, especially 
 the thin end, that the whole sirloin (when cut up), suet, or 
 kidney-fat, down, will lay nearly on a level ; or, in other 
 words, the thin end should appear nearly as thick as the 
 
BEEF. 31 
 
 * 
 
 thick or rump end when laid on a bench or block to be 
 cut up. 
 
 The suet should be of a brighter shade than the meat or 
 muscle fat, dry and hard, break or crumble easily, and at 
 the same time show but little fibre through it. When greasy 
 or oily, or tough and full of tough fibre, small in quantity, 
 is a certain indication that the animal has been improperly 
 fed, overdriven, or brought from a great distance, and there- 
 fore the quality of the beef is deteriorated by rendering it 
 more tough, dry, and tasteless. 
 
 Ox and cow beef, when in good condition, will show their 
 flesh and fat of a darker color ; that of the ox, more partic- 
 ularly, will have an open and a coarser grain, as well as 
 hard, tough cartilages, sinews, ligaments, and muscle, less 
 flesh according to the quantity of bone, and if the animal 
 has been always kept in a good fat condition, the flesh will 
 not be, or eat so tender nor so juicy or fine-flavored as one 
 (not too old) which has been worked down in flesh, then 
 turned into fine pasture with a " summer's run," taken up 
 and stall-fed for two, three or four months, when all the 
 newly made, or growth of flesh, will be a much more tender, 
 a rich cutting, and also well-flavored beef, than the preced- 
 ing ; but still the old nerves and muscle is not replaced, but 
 left behind, and show themselves, more particularly in the 
 pieces which are called plate, navel, and brisket pieces. If, 
 however, the animals (old or young) are poor, then when 
 slaughtered their flesh will show little or no fat on the back 
 and through the muscles, and will also be of a darker color, 
 quite dry looking, very little kidney-fat or suet, and the kid- 
 ney itself not well covered ; and this kind of beef will be 
 usually quite hard, dry, and not well-flavored eating. 
 
 Stag-beef is usually found more fleshy than the ox or 
 steer : of a dusky red, close-grained ; and unless the animal 
 has been well fed the flesh will be quite tough and somewhat 
 strongly flavored. If, however, the stag has been al- 
 tered when quite young, it will much improve the quality 
 
32 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 of the flesh. Their horns are generally thicker and shortei 
 than those of the steer or ox. 
 
 Bull-beef is the poorest eating of all beef, especially an 
 old, poor, worn-out bull. They are always heavy- fleshed, 
 especially in the neck and buttock. The color of the flesh 
 is sometimes almost black, usually tough, with a strong 
 rank scent or flavor, especially when it is fresh killed ; al- 
 though some months in the year a fine, fat young bull will 
 keep hunger off, but will never be choice eating. 
 
 All animals should be killed when they are in the coolest 
 state, or when respiration is the least active. Their flesh 
 then will keep much longer fresh, and be more beautiful, 
 sweet, and healthful ; but when killed in a heated condition, 
 or immediately after a hard drive, the flesh will take longer 
 to cool through, spoil sooner, and the flesh and fat will have 
 a feverish, dark look (caused from its being full of blood), 
 and of course it will not be so inviting or considered so 
 healthy. 
 
 The animal for beef, after having been killed and dressed, 
 is called a carcass of beef; the one-half (a hind and fore 
 quarter), a side of beef; and the separate quarters, a hind- 
 quarter of beef and a fore-quarter of beef The same terms 
 will also apply to mutton, lamb, veal, pork, or, in fact, to 
 almost all animals. 
 
 The whole carcass, before being " split down," or divided 
 through the back, has been occasionally roasted whole, 
 here, as well as many other places, usually to celebrate 
 some great event. I have witnessed several public occa- 
 sions in this city when the roasting of an ox was one of the 
 great features, which, of course, took place on some public 
 ground, and, five times out of six, part of the carcass would 
 be invariably spoiled or tainted, as it appeared almost im- 
 possible to apply the heat so as to roast the inside of the 
 thick parts ; and the consequence was, that it would be 
 about half-roasted — some portions burnt, and the greater 
 part heated just enough to make it turn sour or spoiled, 
 and, of course, unfit to be eaten. No doubt, large iron spits 
 
BEEF. 33 
 
 or skewers could be introduced or forced through the thick 
 parts, which, when properly heated, would produce the 
 desired object. 
 
 The first account of an " Ox-Boasting," which has come 
 under my notice, would now seem a very curious and ex- 
 pensive affair, as it happened in the latter part of the year 
 1727, on the " King's Birthday," in the then fashionable 
 city of Bath, England. This account is found in the New 
 York Gazette (January 29, 1728), which ushers the day in as 
 follows : 
 
 " At four o'clock in the Morning, the Bells struck out ; a 
 Bonfire was lighted, and a whole Ox set a roasting, with a 
 Quantity of Liquor, and Huzzas to his Majesty's Health. 
 At 6 the Drums beat the young Gentleman Volunteers to 
 arms ; by 8, an Hundred and Sixty assembled themselves 
 together at the Colonel's House ; by 10, they were ready to 
 march, but first every Man drank a Glass of Brandy to his 
 Majesty's Health. The Officers were extremely rich in 
 their Apparel — Velvet, Embroidery, Gold and Silver Laces ; 
 the Men with fine Caps, Cockades, Holland Shirts, Silver 
 and Gold Bibbons, Shoulder-knots, fine Scarlet Cloth 
 Breeches, richly laced white Stockings, red Tops to their 
 Shoes; the Slings to their Pieces had this Motto: 'God 
 save King George the Second.' By 12, they marched through 
 the best part of the town, with two Sword-Bearers, a sett 
 of Morris-Dancers, and Martial Musick before them ; then 
 came to the Market-place, where they drew up in Order for 
 Fire. Wine was brought, and every Officer charged his 
 Glass; the King, Queen, and Boyal Family went round 
 distinct, with a Volley at each Health; the Glasses were 
 thrown over their Heads ; and in other parts of the town 
 they did the same. Then Captain Goulding repeated this 
 Verse, extempore: 
 
 ' In spite of Legions of Infernal Devils below, 
 
 To ye Powers above, supream Divine. 
 Let George in the Center our Standard be, 
 And bis Queen the great Caroline 
 3 
 
34 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 " One Colonel Edward Collins, that keeps the White-Hart 
 Inn, and Captain Thomas Goulding, Jeweller in the Walks, 
 Captain James Warriner, Boohselhr in the Walks, Lieu- 
 tenant Collins, Woolen-Draper in the Churchyard, Lieu- 
 tenant Taylor, Sivord-Cutter in the Churchyard, and three 
 more young Gentlemen of the Town-Officers, which makes 
 8 in Number, that gave the Ox and all the charges thereto. 
 They drew to the Beef when roasting, with Handfuls of 
 Silver, each Officer, and obliged the Cook to stuff it into 
 the Shoulders and Neck ; and Captain Goulding, Jeiveller, 
 stuffed above an Hundred true stones into the Buttocks of 
 the Ox, several Diamonds, Kubies, Saphires, Emeralds, 
 Garnets, Amethists, and Topasses. At two, the Ox was 
 ready, brought to the Table, put into a Dish 12 Foot long 
 and 6 wide, made on purpose. They dined in the Public 
 Market-House; but the stuffing made the Mob so furious 
 that they flung themselves over the Heads of the Officers, 
 into the Dish, and stood over their Shoes in Gravy ; and 
 one was stuffed into the Belly of the Ox, and almost stifled 
 with Heat and Fat. The Grease flew about to that Degree 
 which made the Officers quit the Table, or all their Cloaths 
 must have been Spoiled. They stopt and looked on their 
 Proceedings till three ; then they all Marched to the Col- 
 onels, and staid till four. They went out again on their 
 Procession. At five, the candles begun to light ; at 6, the 
 town was illuminated. They went into the Colonel's Quar- 
 ters, near Seven, with Huzzas — 'King George for ever! 9 — 
 where there was great Quantities of Wine and Beer drank 
 to his Majesty's Health, and all his loving Subjects in his 
 extended Dominions. At Eleven, the Drums beat ' Go to 
 bed, Torn!' and all departed in Peace after Pleasure." 
 
 The following figure represents the form of a Spayed 
 Heifer, which is found marked with lines, numbers, and 
 letters, showing where the several joints or parts of the 
 animal for beef are taken from, and how to cut the quarters 
 up in the common manner — as cut in the city of New York. 
 Those marked with the letter S are commonly used for 
 
BEEF. 
 
 35 
 
 steaks of the best, middling, and poorest kinds. The num- 
 bers on the top of the back denote the number of ribs in 
 each " roasting-piece ;" while those numerically numbered 
 
 designate the common name of each part, as used in the 
 cities of New York and Brooklyn, followed by those of 
 Boston and Philadelphia — the two latter, however, as near 
 as can be given, from the marked joints in the foregoing 
 figure. 
 
36 
 
 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 New York and Brooklyn. 
 
 Boston. 
 
 Philadelphia. 
 
 1 S 
 
 Hip sirloin or thick 
 
 Part of the rump or 
 
 Pinbone sirloin. 
 
 
 sirloin. 
 
 hook bone. 
 
 
 2. 
 
 Second-cut ribs or 
 middle ribs. 
 
 Second prime-ribs. 
 
 Middle-rib cut. 
 
 3. S. 
 
 Small end sirloin. 
 
 Sirloin. 
 
 Sirloin. 
 
 4. 
 
 First-cut rib or first 
 
 Fore-rib or first prime- 
 
 First-rib cut. 
 
 
 rib-piece. 
 
 rib. 
 
 
 5. 
 
 Third-cut ribs or 
 thick ribs. 
 
 Third prime-rib. 
 
 Third-rib cut. 
 
 6. 
 
 First -cut chuck 
 ribs. 
 
 First chuck-rib. 
 
 Best chuck-rib 
 
 7. S. 
 
 Second - cut chuck 
 
 rib. 
 Cross rib. 
 
 Second chuck-rib. 
 
 Chuck-rib cut. 
 
 8. S. 
 
 Leg or shoulder-of- 
 
 Boler-piece. 
 
 
 
 mutton piece. 
 
 
 9. S. 
 
 Third-cut chuck rib 
 or chuck-piece. 
 
 Chuck-piece. 
 
 Chuck-piece. 
 
 10. S. 
 
 Rump of beef. 
 
 A itch or edgebone 
 (part of). 
 
 Tail end rump. 
 
 11. 
 
 Socket or face 
 
 rump. 
 First-cut round. 
 
 Rump (part of). 
 
 Rump-piece (part of). 
 
 12. 
 
 Round. 
 
 Round. 
 
 13. 
 
 Second-cut round. 
 
 Leg-ran. 
 
 Round (part of). 
 
 14. 
 
 Top of sirloin. 
 
 Thick flank. 
 
 Cut with Sirloin Steaks 
 
 15. S. 
 
 First-cut neck or 
 neck-piece. 
 
 Neck-piece. 
 
 Neck-cut 
 
 16. S. 
 
 Second-cut neck or 
 neck-piece. 
 
 « 
 
 1 
 
 17. 
 
 Plate-piece. 
 
 Rattle-Ran or Runner 
 
 Plate-piece. 
 
 18. 
 
 Navel-piece. 
 
 piece. 
 Navel end of brisket. 
 
 Thin end of brisket. 
 
 19. 
 
 Brisket-piece. 
 
 Butt end of brisket. 
 
 Thick end of brisket. 
 
 20. 
 
 Shoulder clod. 
 
 Clod (part of). 
 
 Clod (part of). 
 
 81- 
 
 Flank-piece. 
 
 Thin flank. 
 
 Flank. 
 
 22. 
 
 Third cut neck or 
 neck-piece. 
 
 Neck-piece. 
 
 Neck. 
 
 23. 
 
 Leg of beef or leg. 
 
 Shank. 
 
 Leg. 
 
 24. 
 
 Shin of beef or shin. 
 
 Shin. 
 
 Shank. 
 
 In presenting the above names, as it were, belonging to 
 each city, I was somewhat puzzled to procure, from numer- 
 ous inquiries, those which appeared to be the most common 
 ones ; although there were some which all appeared to agree 
 upon, then again, no two were alike ; some had been always 
 used to one name, while others had another, and if I had 
 given all it would have been quite difficult for the buyer, or 
 even the seller to have become reconciled to the large num- 
 ber, so I concluded to adopt those which appeared to have 
 
BEEF. 37 
 
 the most intelligent friends. I also found that many foreign 
 butchers had not only brought their countries' customs of 
 cutting up meats, but also their names of the joints ; and 
 then, again, there were others in the same markets who 
 have different ways of cutting, and they also have adopted 
 names which appeared to have been known only to them- 
 selves. I have, however, a hope that the following wood- 
 cuts may assist the eye to distinguish the most prominent 
 of the above-named joints, and also to know how to use 
 them, or, rather, what dishes they are severally and gener- 
 ally used for ; and, therefore, we will proceed to cut up, first, 
 the different quarters of beef. 
 
 The hind-quarters are usually considered the choice 
 quarters, as from them-are cut or taken the large and famous 
 " Baron of Beef," which the English hold in the highest es- 
 timation as the crowning dish for the Christmas dinner. 
 This joint is seldom prepared in this country, but it is cut 
 much like a saddle of mutton ; that is, by leaving the two sir- 
 loins together ; when being dressed, the hind-quarters of the 
 animal are not separated, but cut so as to saddle or baron- 
 ize them, by taking off the buttocks, rumps, sockets, tops of 
 sirloins, and a part of the suet, which leaves almost a square- 
 looking piece, first known in England as the baron of beef ; 
 and this enormous piece is roasted whole. 
 
 The principal dish, from time immemorial, for the sover- 
 eigns of England at their Christmas dinner is the " Koyal 
 Baron of Beef." In an English print I read that " it was 
 this year (1854) cut from a fine Highland ox, fed by Prince 
 Albert, and weighed eight hundred and forty pounds. It 
 was put down before an enormous fire on Saturday after- 
 noon, and for fourteen hours was watched and basted by re- 
 lays of assistants under the head cook, after which it was 
 trimmed and decorated, with the holly and mistletoe appa- 
 rently sprouting from the outside fat of the meat." 
 
 I also find the following advertisement for the Christmas 
 festivities : " A Baron of Beef will be roasted on Wednes- 
 day next at the Merchants' Dining Kooms, Lancaster Build- 
 
38 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 ings, Exchange-street, East Liverpool. Will be placed on 
 the table at one o'clock," etc. 
 
 In this city I have found several instances where this 
 great dish was prepared and served, and a few of these evi- 
 dences of the fact are now in my possession in the shape of 
 old bills of fare. About the first found on my list was given 
 by William Sykes, who kept one of the best public houses 
 at the period of which this " baron of beef" was given, then 
 called the " New York Coffee House," and located at the 
 corner of William-street and Slote-lane (Beaver-street.) 
 
 This took place on the 8th of October, 1823, in honor of 
 the union of the Erie Canal waters with the Hudson Eiver, on 
 which occasion he served up " a ' baron of beef measuring 
 nearly four feet in length, and weighing one hundred and 
 twelve pounds. It was placed upon a marble slab and sur- 
 mounted with a white silk flag, bearing the arms of the State, 
 and painted for the occasion." Then at the Agricultural 
 Society's dinner, which took place on Friday, the 31st inst. 
 following, at a place called " Mount Vernon," located on the 
 East River, just above the (Youle's) shot-tower. Another 
 " baron of beef," weighing but one hundred and nine pounds, 
 was furnished by Thomas Gibbons, No. 60 Fulton Market. 
 
 The year following (1824), the corporation gave a dinner, 
 on Monday, the 5th of July, in the City-Hall, when a large 
 baron of beef was on the table ; and the next year they 
 gave another, quite as large as the previous one, on Mon- 
 day, the 4th of July. I am also much indebted to Charles 
 H. Webb, Esq., the almoner of St. George Society, who in- 
 forms me that this Society has had several barons of beef 
 served up at their Anniversary dinners, which were princi- 
 pally prepared by Mr. and Mrs. William Niblo. The fol- 
 lowing incident will show one of the mistakes which 
 occurred with perhaps the largest and finest baron of beef 
 ever prepared for, or attempted to be roasted in New York, 
 or elsewhere. This, no doubt, occurred from the anxiety 
 of Mrs. Niblo to outdo all former efforts of giving this 
 choice piece in the greatest perfection. She gave the order 
 
BEEF. 39 
 
 and her instructions to Mr. Andrew C. Wheeler (butcher, 
 No. 19 Fulton Market), that it should be the largest and 
 finest that he could procure. It was taken from a very 
 choice animal, and, when trimmed, weighed some two 
 hundred and eighty pounds then sent to Niblo — who then 
 kept his famous garden and hotel corner of Broadway and 
 Prince-street — the day before the grand dinner of the St. 
 George Society was to take place. The same night, late, 
 Mrs. Niblo was about to put it down to roast. She found 
 it so large and unwieldy that she could not spit it, let alone 
 roast it ; so, about midnight, she sent for Mr. Wheeler, 
 who came, and, after cutting some one hundred pounds or 
 more off of it, they were enabled to get it spitted, and near 
 enough to the fire to commence this great roast for the 
 next afternoon's dinner. They had, however, almost given 
 it up in despair before they succeeded ; but it was said that 
 it was superbly cooked and served up, as every thing else 
 was with which Mrs. Niblo had to do. 
 
 Dividing the baron of beef exactly through the centre of 
 the loins, or back-bone, produces two sirloins — a name 
 which has become extensively known and commonly asso- 
 ciated with this choice part of the carcass. It is said that 
 the name originated with Charles II., who jocularly knighted 
 that part of the animal Sir-Loin. 
 
 We will again turn to the different quarters of beef, and 
 show the most prominent joints marked on the figure sep- 
 arately ; but perhaps a brief explanation, showing how and 
 where to obtain these joints, which to cut off first, and how 
 to handle or lay the different quarters in the most con- 
 venient way to separate or cut them up, is first in order. 
 
 The hind-quarter is first laid down on a strong table, 
 back down ; the buttock and flank, together, are first sepa- 
 rated, the other part turned over on the other (suet) side, 
 when the knife divides the rump-piece from the sirloin. 
 These two pieces — rump-piece and buttock — will be sub- 
 divided hereafter ; in the mean time, we will show that, if 
 the sirloin-piece is wanted or sold for the use of hotels 
 
4:0 
 
 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 or steamers, it is either sent whole or cut into roasts or 
 steaks, as desired. 
 
 The Boston and Philadelphia butchers, after cutting off 
 the buttock and thin-end sirloin, are prepared to cut their 
 fine rump-steaks, which are much the same as our sirloin- 
 steak, only cut more across the hip (or pin) bone. Many 
 of them remove part of the bone. 
 
 We will now divide the sirloin-piece into portions suitable 
 for families who want roasting-pieces, which are cut of all 
 
 Middle-Cut Sirloin. 
 
 sizes : the thick part, containing the hip-bone, will give the 
 largest piece, while the small end cuts two small pieces, say 
 from eight to twelve pounds each. The best of these is 
 shown in the above figure, and usually called the " middle- 
 cut sirloin." 
 
 The other part, adjoining the ribs, is usually known as 
 the thin-end sirloin, being much like the middle-cut sirloin, 
 but with less tenderloin, and is sometimes preferred for a 
 small family, or those who seek it for its close proximity to 
 the prime ribs. It is also cut up into small-loin or porter- 
 house steaks. 
 
 The thick part of the sirloin, by cutting off a few round- 
 bone steaks adjoining the rump side, contains the largest 
 part of the tenderloin, or filet-de-bceuf, which forms a large 
 and choice piece for roasting, from twelve to twenty-five 
 
BEEF. 
 
 41 
 
 pounds in weight. This piece is shown in the figure below, 
 and usually known as the " hip-sirloin." 
 
 This choice part of the beef is sometimes termed the 
 thick-end sirloin; and, when it is not used for roasting, it is 
 cut into three kinds of the finest dinner-steaks, all com- 
 monly called sirloin steaks, but separately. The first anr T 
 
 Hif -Sirloin. 
 
 best, containing the largest quantity of tenderloin, is shown 
 in the figure on following page, and known as the "hip 
 sirloin-steak," of which there are but two or three in one 
 sirloin. 
 
 Next in order is the "flat-bone sirloin-steak" (shown in 
 figure on page 43), of which there are about the same num- 
 ber as the "hip sirloin-steak." This is followed by the 
 same number of the " round-bone sirloin-steak" (shown in 
 figure on page 44), which is cut up to the socket-bone or 
 socket-piece. This latter steak makes an excellent beef- 
 steak-pie, beef-tea, minced collops, etc., as it contains more 
 lean than either of the preceding-named steaks. 
 
 I am much indebted to Henry W. Dunshee, Esq., for the 
 following " Origin of Beefsteak :" 
 
 " The discovery of the chief sources of human enjoyment 
 has all been attributed to some fabulous origin in the an- 
 cient world. The story of that important feature of dinner, 
 
42 
 
 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 the beefsteak, was thus given in the middle ages : — Lucius 
 Plaucus, a Roman of rank, was ordered by the Emperor 
 Trajan, for some offence, to act as one of the menial sacri- 
 ficers to Jupiter ; he resisted, but was at length dragged to 
 
 y V' > ■' /■ 
 
 w 1 
 
 w y/1 
 
 Hip Sirloin-Steak. 
 
 the altar. There the fragments of the victim were laid 
 upon the fire, and the unfortunate senator was forcibly 
 compelled to turn them. In the process of roasting, one of 
 the slices slipped off the coals and was caught by Plaucus 
 in its fall. It burned his fingers, and he instinctively thrust 
 
BEEF. 43 
 
 them into his mouth. In that moment he had made the 
 grand discovery that the taste of a slice thus carbonaded 
 was infinitely beyond all the old sodden cookery of Eome. 
 A new expedient to save his dignity was suggested at the 
 
 Flat-Bone Sirloin-Steak. 
 
 same time, and he at once evinced his obedience to the 
 emperor by seeming to go through the sacrifices with due 
 regularity, and his scorn of the employment by turning the 
 whole ceremony into a matter of appetite. He swallowed 
 every slice, deluded Trajan, defrauded Jupiter, and in- 
 vented the beefsteak ! A discovery of this magnitude could 
 not be long concealed ; the sacrifices began to disappear 
 
u 
 
 THE MAKKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 with a rapidity and satisfaction to the parties too extra- 
 ordinary to be unnoticed. The. priests of Jupiter adopted 
 the practice with delight, and the king of Olympus must 
 have been soon starved if he depended on any share of the 
 good things of Eome." 
 
 
 J j kjym 
 
 9 I A iw> 
 
 Vm ft 1 ' : ''. . ■ 
 I *' If i) , ,;,{«! 
 
 I I!..!' I' V, >,' V? 
 
 I 
 
 ffp * ' tfjfo 
 
 Ilium 
 
 1 w mil •• 
 
 - - 111 w 
 
 mm 
 
 s 
 
 Round-Bone Sirloin-Steak. 
 
 Broiling steaks. — In the early part of the nine- 
 teenth century, when travelling by the stage-coaches was 
 the fashion, Mr. Southmayd, my neighbor, says : " Travellers 
 going to the eastern cities and towns — Boston, New Haven, 
 etc. — and those who travelled much, were always anxious to 
 
BEEF. 45 
 
 reach New Haven, to enjoy a good broiled heefsteak. A 
 man, by the name of Butler, kept a public house in that 
 town, in Chapel-street, and, about that time, was famous 
 for his delicious steaks, which he always cooked or attended 
 to himself. You would find him, with his white cap and 
 apron on, before a heap of live hickory coals, in front of the 
 great wide old-fashioned chimney, having a long handle 
 attached to a large double (hinged) gridiron, and a fine 
 steak fastened up in it, so that he could keep the steak 
 turning, first on the one side then on the other, that not a 
 drop of the fine gravy should drip off. When done, it was 
 dished up, and placed steaming hot before the hungry 
 travellers, who never failed to do ample justice to the efforts 
 of the cook, who, by these means, built a reputation, as well 
 as a fortune, by the knowledge of broiling a beefsteak." 
 
 The rules adopted by the celebrated " Beefsteak Club," 
 organized in England, in 1734, were thus represented : 
 
 "HOW TO COOK A BEEFSTEAK. 
 
 " Pound well your meat until the fibres break ; 
 Be sure that next you have, to broil the steak, 
 Good coal in plenty ; nor a moment leave, 
 But turn it over this way and then that. 
 The lean should be quite rare — not so the fat : 
 The platter now and then the juice receive. 
 Put on your butter — place it on your meat — 
 Salt, pepper ; turn it over, serve and eat." 
 
 The small-end sirloin, when not called for roasting, is cut 
 into " small loin steaks," vulgarly known as " porterhouse 
 steaks," which are represented in the following wood-cut 
 under the head of " small loin steaks." 
 
 The origin of the name of " porter-house steaks" took place 
 about the year 1814, in the following manner : 
 
 Martin Morrison was the proprietor of a long-established 
 and well-kept "porter-house," located and known at that 
 period at No. 327 Pearl-street (New York), near the " old 
 Walton House." "We introduce him in 1803, where we find 
 
4:6 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 Small Loin, or Porter-House Steaks. 
 
 he opens a " porter-house" at No. 43 Cherry -street, which 
 became a popular resort with many of the New York pilots 
 for his prepared hot meals, at any hour, at their call, they 
 being occasionally detained on shipboard until their vessels 
 were safely moored. 
 
 The " porter-houses" in those days were not so devoted 
 to tippling, dram-drinking, and the common nests for the 
 loafing, or the manufacturing of politicians and corrupt offi- 
 cials as at the present day, but rather to accommodate the 
 hungry and thirsty travellers, old and young bachelors, sea- 
 men, and others with a cold lunch after the English custom 
 — " a pot of ale [or porter] and a bite of something." Some 
 " porter-houses" prepared a hot meal of one or two dishes, 
 among which was Morrison's, who must have been quite 
 famous for his excellent broiled beefsteaks, which were uni- 
 versally called for at his place. 
 
 On one occasion (at the above period, 1814), Morrison 
 having had an unusual call for steaks, he had cooked his 
 last steak, and, as fortune would have it for all future par- 
 takers of beefsteaks, an old favorite but a rough pilot, made 
 him a late visit, both hungry and thirsty, having been sev- 
 eral hours without food. Not caring for the salt junk aboard 
 the vessel which he had piloted in, he concluded to wait 
 until he got on shore, that he might cast his anchor at Mor- 
 
BEEF. 47 
 
 rison's, where lie could enjoy his " hot steak and mug of 
 porter." 
 
 In his honest language the pilot gave his usual order. 
 Morrison had nothing but his family dinner for the 
 next day, which consisted of a sirloin roasting-piece, of 
 which he offered to cut from if the old pilot would have it. 
 " Yes, my hearty, any thing — so long as it is a beefsteak — 
 for I am as empty as a gull !" exclaimed the pilot. Morri- 
 san cut off a good-sized slice, had it dressed and served, 
 which the pilot ravenously devoured, and turning to the 
 host (who had been expecting a blast from the old tarpau- 
 lin, but who, to his astonishment, received the order) : 
 "Messmate, another steak just like that — do you hear?" 
 Having finished his steaks and the second mug of porter, 
 the old pilot squared himself towards his host, loudly vocif- 
 erating, "Look ye here, messmate, after this I want my 
 steaks off the roasting-piece ! — do ye hear that ? — so mind 
 your weather-eye, old boy !" 
 
 It was not long after this when the old pilot's companions 
 insisted upon having these "small loin steaks" served to 
 thorn. Morrison soon discovered that these steaks were 
 more suitable in size to dish up for single individuals, and 
 he ever after purchased the sirloin roasting-pieces, from 
 which he cut off these small steaks as they were called for, 
 the large sirloin-steaks becoming less in demand. 
 
 Morrison's butcher — Thomas Gibbons — in the Fly Mar- 
 ket, one morning put the question, after he (Morrison) had 
 selected several sirloin pieces, "Why he had ceased pur- 
 chasing the usual quantity of sirloin steaks ?" Says Morri- 
 son, " I will tell you the reason : I cut off from the sirloin 
 roasting-pieces a small steak which serves my pilots and 
 single patrons best ; but as it is now cold weather, I wish 
 to have these roasting-pieces cut up as I shall direct every 
 morning." After this, Morrison's sirloins were daily cut up 
 by Mr. Gibbons, with his order to " cut steaks for the por- 
 ter-house ;" hence the sirloin was changed into " cut the 
 porter-house steaks." Their appearance attracted the atten- 
 
48 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 tion of other butchers and keepers of porter-houses, who 
 admired their appearance and convenient size ; in a few 
 years their name and character became quite common to 
 the butchers of the Fly Market, from which the name has 
 spread to the several principal cities of the United States, 
 and I doubt not that the name, porter-house steak, has reached 
 across the Atlantic. 
 
 Tender- loin (or filet de hoeuf). This most tender por- 
 tion of the beef is taken from the under or kidney side of 
 the whole sirloin, behind the suet, stretching along the inner 
 loin or backbone. It commences at, and connects with the 
 round-bone steak, extending to the thin-end sirloin, and sel- 
 dom weighs above ten pounds when all taken out. It is 
 much thicker and broader at one end, gradually tapering 
 to the other, and measuring from sixteen to twenty inches 
 in length. It is considered the most tender, and by many 
 the choicest part of the animal, and therefore always com- 
 mands an extra price. 
 
 The reason of the tenderness of this choice bit is, that it 
 is so situated in the animal while living, that the uses of 
 this flesh or muscle is little called into action, and lies well 
 warmed and protected by the fat on one side, and on the 
 other by the backbone. It is found that those parts of the 
 animal's flesh are tender which are not brought into wear 
 and tear by the ordinary movements of the animal, of which 
 it would seem the back, the loin, and the rump appear to 
 have the least straining, and therefore in those parts is 
 found the tenderest flesh ; on the contrary, the neck, legs, 
 sides, and buttocks are brought into violent action by the 
 physical efforts in walking, eating, lying down, stretching, 
 rubbing, and other muscular movements. 
 
 The tenderloin is not recognized by the epicure as either 
 being the sweetest or best-flavored meat. The cause of this 
 will be readily understood when it is known, as already 
 stated, that this muscle is not used as much as are the other 
 sweeter portions of the beef ; hence, the blood flows more 
 sluggishly through its substance, with the consequent less 
 
BEEF. 
 
 49 
 
 nervous force brought to bear upon it. We therefore find, 
 while the tenderloin possesses the attribute of tenderness, 
 it must be recognized as being flabby, or soft, or deficient 
 in tone or firmness compared with the glowing life-giving 
 essentials observable in the meat of ribs, rumps, and the 
 top side of the sirloin, and other outside portions of slaugh- 
 tered animals. 
 
 The animal which is kept housed, especially in a small 
 dark pen, often breathing an impure atmosphere while fat- 
 
 Socket-Piece. 
 
 tening, will not produce well -flavored flesh ; but it certainly 
 will be more tender (in consequence of the inaction, from 
 being penned up and forced into quietness) than that which 
 is taken from the animals fattened and exercised in the free 
 
50 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 open air, upon the same food. In fact, wild animals, which 
 range and fatten upon the hills and mountains, always pro- 
 duce flesh the sweetest, as well as of the highest flavor, and 
 
 Rump of Beef. 
 
 certainly the most healthy for human food. It would ap- 
 pear that the genial warmth of the sun, the pure mountain 
 air, and the short sweet mountain-grasses, produce their in- 
 fluences in perfecting and sweetening living things, whether 
 animal or vegetable, intended for our sustenance. 
 
 The whole rump-piece is usually divided into two or more 
 pieces. The first, or that which joins on the sirloin, is 
 called the face-rump, or " socket-piece" (shown in the figure 
 on preceding page). The other part is known by the 
 common name, "rump of beef" (shown in the above figure). 
 
 When this piece is divided through the centre streak of 
 
BEEF. 51 
 
 fat, cutting about half-way across the dark bone, on the 
 left side of the fat, the smallest piece on the left side is 
 called the edge-hone (aitch, H, itch, or adze bone), and the 
 other side the tail-end-rump, or "rump-piece." From the 
 rump of beef are also cut pieces for doube, bouilli, stewing, 
 potted beef, fricandeau, etc., and, when left whole, is one of 
 the best joints of corned beef. 
 
 The buttock, cut large or full, by cutting off the flank 
 and fat, forms three pieces for smoking, viz., inside piece, 
 outside piece, and veiny piece; the first is generally preferred, 
 although the latter is the most tender. This leaves a large 
 leg of beef. Or the buttock can be cut into two rounds of 
 beef — the first and second cuts. The second cut is usually 
 smaller and not so good as the first cut. They are used for 
 d~la~mode, d-la-doube, bouilli, stewing, and for corning. 
 
 Round op Beef. 
 
 The parts remaining, being a small veiny piece and the 
 thick part of the leg of beef, are used for soups, etc., after 
 having been cut into pieces across the marrow or leg-bone. 
 
 The buttock is often prepared by some "old-country 
 men" for a Scotch ham, by taking off the flank, the veiny 
 piece, and removing the whole of the leg-bone ; it is then 
 
52 THE MAKKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 cured in a sugar and spice pickle, after which it is bound 
 hard with cord, when it is either hung to dry or lightly 
 smoked, and is then generally used as smoked beef. 
 
 If the buttock is cut for a Scotch ham or smokers, the 
 leg, when taken out, will have the marrow-bone attached, 
 and assume the appearance of the following figure. 
 
 Leg of Beef. 
 
 Top of Sirloin. — This piece is known by some as the 
 "thick flank," being a connection with the flank and the 
 sirloin — a piece without bone, quite tender, and well mixed 
 with fat ; used for corning, stewing, etc. The flank is either 
 turned on the round of beef, or the fat trimmed off, when 
 the lean parts are excellent for stewing, etc. 
 
 Middle Bibs. 
 
 The fore-quarter being now ready, is laid upon a bench 
 or block, ribs or inside down. It is then cut down on the 
 
BEEF. 
 
 53 
 
 chuck side, close against the large prominent shoulder- 
 bone, which is sawed through, and the shoulder-clod is cut 
 off. The other part of the quarter is then divided, leaving 
 the ribs and chuck in one piece, and the plate, navel, cross- 
 rib, and brisket in the other. We nest separate the two 
 latter from the plate and navel (after counting four ribs 
 under the cross-rib), an<l follow on by cutting off the 
 brisket, and separating the navel from the plate-piece 
 They are then ready for cuisine. 
 
 There are thirteen ribs in this quarter, nine of which are 
 cut off from the chuck : the first seven of which are called 
 prime ribs, and are cut into the choicest roasting-pieces, by 
 
 First-Cut Ems. 
 
 subdividing (if not sold whole) into three or more pieces. 
 The first ribs begin from the thin-end sirloin, and are always 
 
54 
 
 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 the smallest and most suitable for a small family ; which, 
 when required, it is usual to cut two ribs — first and second 
 (or first, second, and third) — which are called the " first-cut 
 ribs," a representation of which can be seen on the preced- 
 ing page. 
 
 The next ribs — third and fourth — or representing the 
 third, fourth, and fifth as the " middle-cut ribs," or " second- 
 cut ribs," are illustrated on page fifty-two. 
 
 And the last two (sixth and seventh), the thickest part of 
 the prime ribs, are called 
 
 Third-cut Ribs. 
 
 Each of these prime ribs is considered by many epicures 
 to be the finest and best-flavored pieces of the animal, not 
 
BEEF. 
 
 55 
 
 excepting the sirloin. These choice pieces are usually 
 roasted, although the first and second cuts are sometimes 
 used for rolled beef, having all the bone taken out and 
 skewered into a round form, when it is used for a la mode, 
 or occasionally roasted in this form. 
 
 The last of the nine ribs (eighth and ninth) are known as 
 the 
 
 Fikst-cut Chuck Rib. 
 
 Although it has a thin point of the shoulder-blade through 
 it, yet it is supplied with more flesh, according with the 
 bone, which makes it a profitable and good piece, both as 
 to price and quality. 
 
 The cliuck contains the last four ribs (making thirteen in 
 all) running under the shoulder-blade, and the neck-piece 
 makes up the balance of the chuck. 
 
 These chuck ribs are usually divided into pieces of one or 
 
56 
 
 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 two ribs each. The first two— tenth and eleventh — are 
 called 
 
 Secoitd-cut Chuck Rib. 
 
 A very sweet, juicy eating-piece of beef, not quite so tender 
 as the first-cut chuck rib, but as well flavored. This joint sells 
 at a much less price per pound. The next cut, being the 
 twelfth and thirteenth, or both ribs together, is usually known 
 as a " chuck piece," or chuck rib. These pieces are not 
 quite so good, but having the blade taken out (as all others 
 should be that have it in), and a piece of nice fat or suet 
 placed or skewered in, makes an excellent piece to " roast 
 in the pot," a la mode, potted beef, bouille, for mince pies, 
 soups, etc. 
 
BEEF. 57 
 
 When four of these chuck ribs, with the neck end, are left 
 together, it is known as a chuck, and ofttimes this whole 
 piece is cut into and sold as chuch steaks ; the first of them, 
 when from a choice animal, are next in quality to the sir- 
 loin steaks, being as well mixed or marbled with fat, and 
 are equally sweet and juicy. 
 
 The balance of the chuck, or rather neck-piece, is usually 
 divided into three or more pieces. The first, next to the 
 chuck, is called first-cut neck-piece, and so on. These pieces 
 are excellent for a sweet, strengthening soup, or mince pies, 
 bolognas, etc. 
 
 The cross -rib (which the English call leg-of-mutton piece), 
 is a profitable and good piece, very fair for a plain roast, 
 one of the best for stewing, d la mode, bouille, and for what 
 some of our " old-fashioned folks" call " roast in the pot." 
 
 The brisket-piece is much used by the French for 
 bouille, soup, and a very good piece corned or salted. 
 
 The plate-piece (in Boston called rattle-ran) is com- 
 monly used for corned or salted beef, and the best for press- 
 ing. Many butchers roll it — after taking all the bones out 
 — with sugar, spice, etc., then tie or skewer it up in a round 
 form. After being well cured it is known as Scotch roll, a 
 name given it by the author. It is an excellent dish when cold. 
 
 The navel-piece (or thin-end brisket) is much used for 
 the same purposes as the plate and brisket pieces. These 
 three pieces are used principally for salting, packing, ex- 
 portation, and shipping uses. 
 
 Shin of Beef. 
 
 The shoulder-clod, or clod, when cut in pieces, is 
 principally used in soups, bouille, etc. The meat is juicy 
 
58 
 
 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 and tender, with a nice marrow-bone in each piece, except 
 the thick end, sometimes known as " Old Tom," although it 
 contains a large bone, which, though hidden from view, is 
 excellent for a rich soup. 
 
 The shin of heel*, which is represented on the preced- 
 ing page, is taken from off the clod ; it is fit for nothing 
 but stock for soup. When well and properly boiled, it 
 makes a rich, gelatinous soup. 
 
 The stick! ng-piece is also taken from the clod, but 
 of late years is seldom taken off. It is used principally for 
 mince-pies, stews, soups, etc. 
 
 Ma If- bison (or buffalo) heifer. — An animal of the half- 
 breed, or cross of the bison bull and Durham cow, was 
 slaughtered by me in the month of October, 1855, and for 
 further particulars the following extract is taken from the 
 
 Fifth and Sixth Ribs. 
 
 " Transactions of the American Institute," page two hun- 
 dred and nineteen of the volume for 1855. 
 
 "This animal's age was between three and four years 
 
TEAL. 59 
 
 — live weight nearly one thousand seven hundred pounds. 
 The four quarters (dead) weighed nine hundred and forty 
 pounds (rough fat one hundred and twelve pounds — hide 
 seventy-five pounds). On the hump the fat measured three 
 and one-half inches, on the loin two inches, and cut beauti- 
 fully marbled. (See figure of the fifth and sixth ribs.) 
 
 " Her color almost black, with tan-colored long hair on 
 her shoulders, and also long hair under her chin and at the 
 fetlocks ; with the turn-up horns, round nose, and the wild 
 flashing eye of the bison. When fastened up in a large pen 
 she was so cross and vicious that no person dare go in the 
 pen with her, and when a red object presented itself, whether 
 a shawl on a lady or the red shirt of a workman, she would 
 become very much excited and pitch directly at' the object, 
 or as far as she could go. 
 
 " Colonel De Voe reported that he had sold all her ' beef,' 
 without giving an opinion either in favor or against the eat- 
 ing qualities, but wished those to whom he sold cuts to re- 
 port on this point after having partaken. There were but 
 two who reported unfavorably, some ten or twelve who 
 thought ' they never eat finer flavored or more tender beef,' 
 and a very large number, among whom was Lieutenant-Gen- 
 eral Scott, reported that the ' beef ' was very high-flavored, 
 with a taste of game, but not so juicy as our first-quality 
 beef." 
 
 VEAL. 
 
 The calf, after it is slaughtered and dressed, is called 
 veal ; but, unlike the ox or steer, in the dressing, our regu- 
 lar butchers seldom take off its skin until the day it is to be 
 placed on their stalls for sale. It is retained on the carcass 
 for the purpose of keeping the flesh moist, bright, and 
 clean. 
 
 Selecting the various calves to produce the best veal, I 
 have placed them in the following order : 
 
60 
 
 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 1. Heifer-calf, from 4 to 6 weeks old, fed wholly on milk. 
 
 2. Bull-calf, 
 
 3. Steer-calf, from 6 to 10 weeks old, fed partially on milk and meal. 
 
 4. Heifer-calf, 
 
 5. Bull-calf, 
 
 6. Steer-calf, from 10 months up to yearling, fed as above. 
 
 7. Heifer-calf, 
 
 8. Bull-calf, 
 
 The age of the calf not being less than four nor more than 
 six weeks, produces the best veal, if properly fed and in 
 a healthy condition. At a less age veal is not fit for food, 
 as the flesh is flaccid, gelatinous, and watery. "When calves 
 are wholly fed from the cow, and range between the age of 
 
 1. Loin of veal. 
 
 2. Leg of veal. 
 
 3. Shoulder of veal. 
 
 4. Neck of veal. 
 
 5. Breast of veal. 
 
 6. Calf s head. 
 
 7. Calf's feet. 
 
 four to six weeks, they produce what may be called milk 
 veal, being the most white, tender, and delicate, and con- 
 sidered the choicest eating of all other veal. After six 
 weeks the calf requires more food than the mother can pro- 
 duce : the milk of another cow, or a little meal, grass, or 
 hay, is also given. This change of food, with advance of its 
 age, of course, materially alters the character of the flesh, 
 both in quality and color, which becomes darker, while the 
 
VEAL. 
 
 61 
 
 fat is more yellow and the meat less juicy. When turned 
 out and wholly fed on grass (grass calves), the flesh is ren- 
 dered poor, dry, tasteless, and usually dark-colored. 
 
 Good veal should be finely grained, tender, and juicy, the 
 fat firm and of a whitish color. If too white, the yeal will 
 show that the calf has been bled before being slaugh- 
 tered — a process which may add to its appearance, but 
 which deprives the meat of much of its juiciness as well as 
 its sweet flavor. 
 
 The figure on preceding page represents a calf about six 
 weeks old, and is marked out with lines and numbers, show- 
 ing the different joints- and their several names. 
 
 Loin of Veal. 
 
 The hind -quarter of veal is the choice, and always 
 commands the highest price. It is usually divided into two 
 
62 
 
 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 parts when found on the butcher's stall, which are com- 
 monly called the loin and leg of veal. The figure on preced- 
 ing page represents a loin of veal, which is the choicest 
 portion for roasting, either whole or divided. It also makes 
 fine veal chops, either for broiling, frying, or stewing, etc. 
 When the loin is too large, it is divided into two small 
 joints ; the thin end is called " kidney-end," and the other 
 "thick-end," and, by foreigners, the "chump-end." 
 We now turn to the 
 
 Leg of Veal, 
 
 which is sometimes used whole for roasting, or from it is 
 cut the " fillet of veal," " veal cutlets," for fricandeau, force- 
 meats, collops, etc. The fillet of veal is boned by the 
 butcher, and is used generally for roasting, stewing, etc. 
 The " knuckle of veal," being a part of the leg of veal after 
 the fillet or cutlets are taken from it, makes a good light 
 soup, a stew, or boil, etc. 
 
VEAL. 
 
 63 
 
 The fore-quarter of veal comprises the shoulder, 
 the neck, and the breast. The following figure repre- 
 sents a 
 
 Shoulder of Veal, 
 
 with all the bone, or blade, taken out. It is a good joint 
 for being stuffed to roast, and will answer for that purpose 
 without boning. A small family can make two dishes from - 
 i it, by having the blade taken from the thin end, for roast- 
 ing, stewing, etc. The " knuckle," or hock-end, left with 
 the flesh on, with the blade-bone, will make a good soup or 
 stew, at a slight cost. 
 
64 
 
 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 Neck and Bkeast of Veal. 
 
 The Ibreast ©f veal is shown, on the left of the above 
 engraving, connected with the " neck of veal," running from 
 figure 1, directly down across the inside ribs, to figure 2. 
 The breast is seen with the fat and throat sweet-bread at- 
 tached, as it is usually dressed by the market-butcher. The 
 sweet-breads are, however, sold separately. 
 
 Many persons prefer the breast of veal for roasting, stew- 
 ing, veal-pie, and ragout ; and it is sometimes boned, so as 
 to roll, or a large hole is cut into it for the reception of 
 stuffing, etc. 
 
 The neck of veal is used for stewing, fricassee, veal- 
 pie (either pot or oven) ; and the best or rib end is pre- 
 ferred by the French and Germans for " rib chops" or " veal 
 cotelettes" — (not " veal cutlets.") 
 
 The head, feet, haslet, sweet-breads, and other parts of 
 the calf, are noticed under another head. 
 
MUTTON. 65 
 
 MUTTON. 
 
 The flesh of sheep, when slaughtered and dressed, is 
 known by the name of mutton : a single one whole, a car- 
 cass of mutton ; many together, mutton carcasses. 
 
 The various kinds, ages, and sex of sheep producing the 
 best mutton, are placed in the following order : 
 
 never having had lambs. 
 
 1. Wether (cosset), from 3 to 5 years old. 
 
 2. Wether, 
 
 U 11 tt 
 
 3. Wether, 
 
 " 1 to 3 " 
 
 4. Ewe (cosset), 
 
 ' 3 to 5 " r 
 
 5. Ewe, 
 
 t (i tt 
 
 6. Ewe, 
 
 1 1 to 3 " 
 
 7. Ewe (young, breed 
 
 ing, but dry). 
 
 8. Ewe, of any age. 
 
 
 9. Stag sheep, of any 
 
 age — young best. 
 
 0. Buck or ram, ' 
 
 [ tt 
 
 The age of the animal producing the best mutton appears 
 to be between three and five years old. They are then bet- 
 ter interlarded, or mixed with fat, through the flesh, when full 
 fed, and if not driven too far will have a large kidney fat. 
 The cosset wether is selected as producing the best mutton, 
 because we find its temper and habits are more docile and 
 gentle. It is usually better fed than other sheep, and it is 
 rarely worried in or out of the fields, but rather treated as a 
 pet around the house or barnyard; therefore we find its 
 flesh generally in the best condition. 
 
 Young wether mutton, although usually tender, has not 
 so much rich flavor and sweetness as the same kind when 
 older or fully developed by proper feeding and age. 
 
 It is asserted by some that mutton is best immediately 
 after being killed, or before the animal heat has parted from 
 it. If so, Lhave not discovered it, and I have eaten from 
 the same animal on several different occasions — when fresh 
 and long killed — and have always found the fresh-killed 
 
 5 
 
66 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 mutton taste much as it smells when dressing the animal, 
 that is, what butchers call " woolly," or " sheepy," and never 
 so sweet or tender as the long-killed, or that which has hung 
 the longest in clear, cool air, where the flesh has not been 
 permitted to dry too much or become tainted ; the fibre 
 then has become tender, yields easily to the powers of mas- 
 tication, and, while much of the fresh, thin, tasteless juices 
 or water are dried out, experience shows that the thick, 
 sweet juices are left. 
 
 The different breeds and feeding have also a great deal to 
 do in producing the best qualities. A large-framed, coarse- 
 woolled, fat sheep produces a coarse-grained, dry, and but 
 indifferent-flavored mutton ; while the middle-woolled, round, 
 plump, thick sheep — generally found in the Southdown, Lei- 
 cester, Cotswold, etc., breeds — produces the close-grained, 
 tender, juicy, and high-flavored mutton, especially when they 
 are allowed to feed upon the short, sweet grass of the 
 hills and mountains, with the addition of proper stall-feed- 
 ing afterwards. 
 
 A great deal of the mutton brought to New York City by 
 the steamers from England, and paraded so ostentatiously 
 at many of our first-class restaurants, hotels, etc., is gen- 
 erally no better than our best mutton, which can be pro- 
 cured from any of our first-class butchers, and more es- 
 pecially when it has been " hung." The principal advantage 
 of the English mutton is on account of its being long-killed 
 when it arrives here. I will not, however, say that we pro- 
 duce as much fine mutton, because I know we do not. The 
 climate of England is more favorable, it never being so cold 
 but that the sheep can be left out all winter, without being 
 housed at all : in fact, I am told that these animals can eat 
 the turnips out of the ground, where they are left for that 
 purpose, while ours, to keep them improving, must be 
 housed and well cared for, to produce this excellent meat in 
 perfection. 
 
 Many travellers say that mutton is the favorite meat of 
 the English people of all classes ; it, however, is not so in 
 
MUTTON. 
 
 67 
 
 this country yet ; but its consumption is gradually increas- 
 ing, and, I think, quite as fast as the improvement and 
 increase of the fine breeds of sheep. 
 
 General opinion confirms the fact that good mutton is 
 one of the most wholesome, as well as the most easily di- 
 gested, of all the meat kind, and therefore best calculated 
 for invalids. 
 
 In choosing the best mutton, perhaps a few remarks may 
 assist the unpractised buyer. The fat should be white, 
 clear, and hard, the scored skin on the fore-quarters nearly 
 red, the lean firm, succulent, and juicy, rather of a darkish 
 red color, and the leg-bones clear and nearly or quite white. 
 
 Indifferent and poor mutton is seldom fat ; but if so, the 
 fat will have a yellowish appearance : and if the animal has 
 been driven a long way, or diseased, the flesh will be flabby, 
 the kidney-fat small, with a stringy appearance, and the lean 
 seen through the skin on the back of a dark bluish shade. 
 
 The flesh of ram -mutton is usually found to be dark, 
 
 1. Leg of Mutton. 
 
 2. Shoulder of " 
 
 3. Loin of 
 
 4. & 6. Neck of " 
 
 5. Breast of Mutton. 
 
 6. Scrag " (end of the neck). 
 
 7. Flank " 
 
 close, and coarse-grained ; the fat is of a darker (and some 
 times of a yellowish) shade than that found in good mutton, 
 while the flesh is softer and spongy, and rank in its flavor. 
 
68 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 In dividing or cutting up a" carcass of mutton," it is 
 usual, first, to split it through the backbone into two sides, 
 and if the weather should be unfavorable for hanging them 
 any length of time, it will be best to hang them separately, 
 without quartering them. "In some parts of England," 
 says the Westmoreland Gazette, " it is usual at Christmas 
 for the farmers to kill each a sheep for their own use, on 
 
 Saddle of Mutton. 
 
 which occasion, when the butcher inquires if they want any 
 meat against Christmas, the usual reply is, ' Nay, I think 
 not ; I think o' killing myself.' Last Christmas a butcher 
 called on a farmer of his acquaintance in the usual manner, 
 saying, ' Will ye want a bit of meat, or ye'll kill yerself this 
 Christmas ?' ' I nae not,' replied the farmer, ' whether I'se 
 kill myself or take a side o' me father.' " 
 
MUTTON. 69 
 
 In the figure on page sixty-seven is shown the various 
 prominent pieces, designated by the number of each piece. 
 
 The carcass is also often cut with the two hind- quarters 
 together, and so hung up on the stalls, sometimes for weeks, 
 if in weather fit for keeping it, or long enough to ripen it. 
 This hanging of meats is a great loss to the butcher, from 
 the effect of drying out the juices, thereby lessening the 
 weight. An animal of eighty pounds weight, hung up for 
 two weeks, will lose from eight to twelve pounds, accord- 
 ing to the state of the weather, which loss, with the risk of 
 sudden changes of either close, damp, warm, or muggy 
 weather, should demand an increased price, or a proper al- 
 lowance made for the loss on the original weight. There 
 are some families, however, who have proper places, and 
 buy their mutton fresh, when it is used as it is required. 
 
 When two connected hind-quarters, which I have desig- 
 nated hind-saddle, are ready to be used or cut for a saddle, 
 they are hung by the right leg : then cut a part through the 
 aitch-bone ; and again, cut off the legs, either ham (as seen 
 on the preceding page) or haunch fashion, which leaves the 
 two loins together, and are known as a " saddle of mutton." 
 
 This being the finest and choicest part of the mutton for 
 roasting, it should always, if the weather will admit, be well 
 hung, and then, before use, have the outside fleshy skin 
 taken off. An excellent large chop which I have called 
 saddle-chop, is cut off from the rib end of a saddle of mut- 
 ton. "When in a frozen state, it should be sawed off like 
 venison, which adds much to its tenderness. 
 
 The two fore-quarters, when left together, I have 
 designated with the name of fore-saddle, although usually 
 called fore-quarters ; and this name is usually given them 
 when separated ; but fore-quarter will properly apply to 
 one, as it is usually known. 
 
 When the tore-saddle is wanted for a large roast, or 
 to corn, the two breasts and shanks are taken off, with a 
 piece or scrag end of the neck ; which leaves a good thick 
 piece I have named chines of mutton, but when separated, 
 
70 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 each one a chine of mutton. By taking out the shoulder- 
 blade it leaves less labor for the carver. For a small family, 
 the latter piece makes a profitable and good piece, either to 
 roast, corn, or it may be cut into lean chops. 
 
 If, however, the carcass is split and quartered, either one 
 of the four quarters can be used whole for roasting, etc., or 
 the 
 
 Hind-Quarter of Mutton 
 
 can be divided by taking off, ham fashion or haunch fashion, 
 as shown in leg" of mutton on opposite page. 
 
 One of the most useful, it commands the highest price of 
 any joint of the carcass. It is a choice part for boiling, 
 soup, corned, etc., and when well hung it is best for a roast. 
 The part left of the hind-quarter is called the loin of mutton. 
 
MUTTON. 
 Leg of Mutton. 
 
 a 
 
 
 
 which is generally used for chops (sometimes called Eng- 
 lish chops), or for roasting, haricot, etc. The loin of mut- 
 ton being one-half of the saddle, should also have the light 
 tough skin taken off the back fat before use. The following 
 anecdote was created by a gentleman who was carving this 
 joint, when he said : " Shall I cut this loin of mutton sad- 
 dle-wise ?" " No," said his friend. " Cut it bridle-wise, for 
 then we may have a chance to get a bit in our mouths." 
 
 The Foke-Quabter op Mutton, 
 
 if small, not too fat, and cracked like lamb, or it has the 
 shoulder-blade taken out, makes an excellent piece to roast, 
 
72 THE MABKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 or corned whole ; but when wanted in pieces, the shoulder 
 should be first taken off, which will appear as follows — 
 
 Shoulder of Mutton, 
 
 used for roasting, soup, stewing, etc. A London paper of 
 1804 says : " Yesterday a journeyman blacksmith, of the 
 name of Sattle, a noted gormandizer, undertook, for a trifling 
 wager, to eat a shoulder of mutton of six pounds weight, 
 with a proportionate quantity of vegetables, and a three- 
 penny loaf, and to drink a quart of ale, at a public house 
 in the neighborhood of Golden Lane. He was to perform 
 the task in an hour ; but he completed it in fifty minutes, 
 and actually bespoke a supper of bread and bacon." "We 
 
LAMB. 73 
 
 turn and chop off the neck of mutton from the breast, which 
 is fit for a stew, haricot, etc., or from which are cut ribs 
 singly (Fig. 1), the French cotelette, or rib chops (the one 
 on the right, Fig. 2, is ready trimmed for use), which leaves 
 the scrag end of the neck — a piece much used for broth for 
 the sick ; or the whole neck, cut up, is used for haricot, 
 stew, pies, etc. 
 
 The breast — the lowest-priced joint of the carcass — is 
 used for stewing, pies, etc. Other parts of the sheep are 
 described under another head. 
 
 LAMB. 
 
 Lamb is accepted by its name after it is slaughtered and 
 dressed. The same terms and names apply to the similar 
 named joints of mutton, by using the word lamb in place of 
 mutton. 
 
 This young animal is usually known among butchers as 
 lamb until it arrives at the age of about twelve months, 
 when it is termed yearling, although at this period the year- 
 ling is often dressed " lamb fashion." 
 
 The size, fatness, condition, age, and sex are considered 
 best in the order as follows : 
 
 1. Spring (or house) lamb (ewe), from six weeks to three months old. 
 
 2. Spring lamb (buck) " " " 
 
 3. Wether lamb " " three months to eight months old. 
 
 4. Ewe lamb 
 
 5. Wether lamb, or yearling, eight months to twelve months old. 
 
 6. Ewe lamb, " " " 
 
 The spring lamb, occasionally called house lamb, espe- 
 cially by some foreigners, it is presumed from the circum- 
 stance of its being born during the winter months, when its 
 tender life, if not carefully housed, fed, and kept warm, 
 would perish, remain dwarfish, or become sickly. Its flesh 
 is prized for its unseasonable character, and, although deli- 
 cate and tender, is quite insipid and no way nourishing. 
 
74. THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 The old-country fashion of preparing house lambs was, 
 many years ago : " As soon as the lambs are born they are 
 put into a warm outhouse. Some white peas and bran are 
 mixed together and placed near them, with a little fine hay 
 and a chalk-stone to lick. The dams are turned into good 
 grass, and brought to their lambs four times a day. Every 
 lamb is suffered to suck as much as it will. By this process 
 they become extremely delicate." But in this country it 
 usually lacks the pleasant flavor that grass imparts to the 
 flesh. 
 
 Lamb occasionally is sold in our markets as early as the 
 month of March ; after which it slowly increases in size and 
 numbers, and in the months of June, July, and August it is 
 in full season, and of fine quality. When first brought to 
 market lamb is not sold in less quantity than a quarter, its 
 weight being seldom above five or six pounds. As it in- 
 creases in size by age, and amply fed by the grass-fed ewe 
 — aided by the warm sun — the lamb speedily increases in 
 weight, the quarters from eight to twelve pounds each. 
 Later in the season, the animal with age and forced feed, 
 the quarters will weigh as much as twenty-five pounds. 
 
 To choose lamb, first examine the fat on the back and 
 then that of the kidneys, both of which should be white, 
 hard, and of the same color. Lambs are tender creatures. 
 Kough handling, cold, stormy weather, kept without food, 
 and being long driven, produce a feverish state, which 
 causes the flesh and fat to be veiny and of a dark red color, 
 and also renders it dry, tough, and tasteless. 
 
 The kidney fat of a fine (or inferior) lamb should not 
 be raised, stuffed, or blowed ; but merely its own caul or fat 
 laid on its legs and flanks (see Fig.), to prevent them from 
 drying or burning when roasting. Beware of two or three 
 colors of fat found about the dressing of the hind-quarters, 
 which in all probability is here appropriated from some 
 other animal, which gives it a different flavor when cooked. 
 This caution applies to all kinds of meat of blown or 
 spongy appearance, this being frequently produced by hu- 
 
LAMB. 
 
 75 
 
 man breath. It is needless to observe that the breath of 
 the human lungs (even from those of the most healthy and 
 sweet condition), in this manner blown into meats, is neither 
 calculated to add to its sweetness nor to render it palatable 
 to delicately-educated people. 
 
 The carcass of iamb is first split down the centre of 
 the back and neck into two sides, which are quartered by 
 leaving two or three ribs on the following 
 
 HIND-QUABTER OP LAMB. 
 
 When large enough, and it is desired by the purchaser to 
 be cut or divided, the leg is first cut off and prepared for 
 roasting, boiling, or cut into chops, etc. 
 
76 THE MAKKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 
 The loin of lamb is usually cut into chops, or cracked 
 for roasting, etc. 
 
 The fore -quarter of lamb (see fore-quarter of mut- 
 ton) is smaller than the same joint of mutton ; the bones 
 are of a more reddish color. The fore-leg is broken off 
 immediately above the joint of the foot, at the point where 
 the fore-foot or hooflock joint is cut from the mutton, which 
 connects with the white joint bone. Some call it lamb as 
 long as the foot breaks off with the hand at this place ; 
 this, however, often occurs in old sheep. 
 
 Small old sheep, very poor and thin in flesh, are often 
 dressed up " lamb fashion" by irresponsible butchers and 
 others, who sell it under the name of lamb, and many years 
 ago such was known as " Staten Island Lamb." This meat 
 is usually sold at exceedingly low prices. 
 
 By many the fore-quarter of lamb is preferred for the 
 delicacy of the ribs and breast when roasted. Eemoving 
 the blade-bone from the quarter greatly assists the carver. 
 Separated from the shoulder, the neck and breast broiled 
 make a choice dish. 
 
 Other parts of the lamb are found noticed under another 
 head. 
 
 PIGS, HOGS, AND PORK. 
 
 The young pig, termed " roasting-pig," is not changed in 
 name, like the full-grown animal, by the fact of slaughter- 
 ing. Living or dead, it is named a pig, a roaster, or a 
 roasting-pig. When dressed for choice eating, it should 
 not be less than three nor more than six weeks old. The 
 skin of the roaster should be white (unless it has been a 
 spotted or black-haired pig), plump, hard, and well cleaned. 
 The flanks, where it is opened, should be thick and fat, and 
 it ought to weigh from eight to fourteen pounds. Its season 
 is best in the fall and. winter months. 
 
 The half or full grown shoat, or hog, and its varieties, 
 
PIGS, HOGS, AND POKE. 77 
 
 'when prepared for the stall, is changed to the name of 
 ijvorh When living, and of different ages and sexes, they 
 I are known by several distinct names : those under one year 
 • are either called pigs, shoats, or porkers. If the female 
 i within one year have pigs, she is known as a "young sow," 
 and no longer by the name of shoat, etc. When spayed, 
 ithe animal is then known as a "spayed sow." Above one 
 ;year, the male is named a "young boar;" when aged, an 
 "old boar;" and, when altered, a "barrow," or "barrow- 
 ihog," or "hog;" and, when altered late or aged, it is called 
 a "stag-hog." The female is similarly named "sow," 
 | sow-hog," or " hog." These terms are mostly applied to 
 tthe living animals. 
 
 Experience and information, in relation to the varieties 
 i which will produce the best pork, may be placed in the fol- 
 I lowing order. The first are those which are fed with corn : 
 
 1 1. Barrow-pigs or shoats, from three months to one year old. 
 , 2. Sow-pigs or shoats, from three months to six months old. 
 
 3. Barrow-pigs, etc. (milk and grass fed), from three months to one year 
 
 old. 
 
 4. Sow-pigs, from three to four months old. 
 
 ' 5. Barrow-hogs and spayed sows, when found over one year old, corn-fed, 
 
 selected usually for bacon-hogs. 
 f 6. Sow-hogs, do., do., selected usually for bacon-hogs. 
 ,7. Stag-hog. 
 ■ 8. Boar-hog or boar — youngest best. 
 
 The general appearance of the most choice pork is from 
 ( an animal the carcass of which will not weigh less than 
 [ fifty and not more than one hundred and twenty pounds. 
 
 The skin should present a semi-transparent appearance, 
 : approaching white in color ; the fat on the back should not 
 : be less than half an inch thick, white and firm, and the lean 
 .of a pale reddish color, and sappy. The skin of the older 
 i animals, or bacon-hogs, is thicker and coarser, while the 
 
 lean is of a darker color, but equally sweet, juicy, and 
 
 tender. 
 
 Hogs selected for bacon, clear pork, hams, shoulders, 
 
 back fat, or for salted or barrelling pork, are usually from 
 
78 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 one hundred and fifty to five hundred pounds in weight 
 — some, indeed, have weighed above one thousand two 
 hundred pounds. 
 
 By many, fresh pork is considered to be exceedingly un- 
 wholesome during the months of the year of high temper- 
 ature. This, no doubt, to a great extent, is true : the fatty, 
 gross character of the flesh not being easily assimilated 
 when the animal economy of the human system requires 
 less heating nourishment to the blood, and therefore re- 
 quires less irritating food to the digestive organs. The in- 
 stincts of experience no doubt lessen the demand for fresh 
 pork during the heat of the summer trade. 
 
 Animals procured from those who properly feed them 
 (the food producing a great influence on the quality of the 
 flesh) must prove good, sweet, and wholesome, although it 
 may be soft ; but if the animals are allowed to run at large, 
 which is generally the case with shoats and hogs in the 
 spring and summer, eating whatever they can pick up — 
 their uncleanly character is too well known, both as to 
 habit and the filth or animal substances they select for 
 food — there can be no doubt that pork, from such animals, 
 offers unfit and unwholesome food. 
 
 Shoats or hogs selected for slaughter, after they have 
 been properly fed, are penned two or three months, first 
 giving them swills, vegetables, or grain, which afterwards is 
 increased in quality and quantity, such as Indian-corn, by 
 which the character and quality of the flesh is much im- 
 proved. The tenderness is also increased by the hanging 
 of the carcass of the slaughtered animal for several days 
 before being cut into the various pieces for use. 
 
 The carcass of pork, being intended for immediate 
 use while in its fresh state, is hung by the foot of its right 
 hind leg ; then cut down, through the skin of the centre of 
 the back, from the tail to the neck, followed with the split- 
 ting down of the backbone through the line of the incision, 
 dividing it into halves or sides. These are again divided, 
 after taking off the head, into quarters. 
 
PIGS, HOGS, AND POEK. 
 Shoat-Pokk. 
 
 79 
 
 1. Leg of pork. 
 
 2. Loin of pork. ) often cut 
 
 3. Chine of pork. J together. 
 
 4. Brisket of pork. 
 
 5. Flank of pork. 
 
 6. Hocks. 
 
 7. Pig's-head. 
 
 8. Pig's feet. 
 
 The hind-quarter (represented in the preceding 
 figure, including Nos. 1, 2, and 5) is first divided by taking 
 off the leg of pork, which is generally used fresh for roast- 
 ing, after having the bone neatly taken out and finely 
 scored ; but when intended for corning, it should be kept in 
 pickle ten or twelve days before use. 
 
 The loin of pork being left, if not too fat, presents 
 the finest piece for roasting ; it should also be finely and 
 evenly scored, as all pork ought to be when intended for 
 roasting; the scoring should be a quarter of an inch in 
 width, to prevent its blistering, and render the joint more 
 readily carved. The loin also furnishes fine pork chops, and 
 small delicate corning pieces. 
 
 The fore-cj uarter of pork, if small, is often roasted 
 whole, after having the blade-bone removed ; if large, it is 
 divided across the ribs (see figure between 3 and 4), using 
 the thin part, or brisket of pork, for corning, after taking 
 off the hocks and feet. 
 
 The chine of pork (figure 3) is used for roasting, or 
 the ribs are used for rib-chops, up as far as the blade-bone, 
 and the remaining part for pork-steaks. 
 
 The carcass being very large and fat, and the lean por- 
 
80 
 
 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 tions intended to be used fresh, the two following figures 
 (furnished me by the kindness of the American Agriculturist) 
 will assist this explanation, in the cutting of it up. 
 
 The figure 1 appears lying on a block or table. We must 
 
 first separate the head from the carcass; then split (or 
 saw, if frozen) the carcass through the back-bone with a 
 chopper. Each side will then appear as represented by the 
 figure on opposite page. This done, with a sharp knife 
 loosen the leaf and kidney fat (near the letters N and K, 
 
PIGS, HOGS, AND PORK. 
 
 81 
 
 figure 2), and tear it away towards the leg, or fresh ham ; 
 the kidney is brought away with it. Each side is then 
 divided into its fore and hind quarters, by leaving two ribs 
 on each of the latter. The next cut loosens the tenderloin 
 
 from where it is connected with the fresh ham, when it is 
 torn out upwards towards the ribs or head. The fresh 
 hams are then removed, beginning at the tail-side, and cut 
 circularly to the flank (figure 1, C), after sawing the small 
 bone about half-way, and chopping or sawing off the feet 
 (figure 1, I, I). 
 
 Next, cut the brisket of pork off (see first figure, 
 No. 4, p. 79), which is usually corned ; the chine piece turn 
 
 6 
 
82 
 
 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 over, that the thick clear fat (fig. 2, O) can be easily cut off 
 close to the lean. This fat is usually salted, and is known as 
 back fat ; it is used for various purposes in cookery, and 
 also by many butchers in the dressing of calves. Some- 
 times a very thin slice will be observed on a fat-appearing 
 loin of veal — this deceit is called plating, although, in fact, 
 it may be considered an addition to the veal, by aiding its 
 cooking and its flavor; it is usually done, however, with 
 the intention of hiding the uncovered kidney of a poor 
 young veal, which too often is not fit to be eaten. 
 
 1. Leg, or fresh ham. 
 
 2. Shoulder (after being trimmed). 
 
 3. Chops or cheeks. 
 
 4, 4. Loin-pieces. 
 
 5, 5. Kib, or chine-pieces. 
 6. Brisket. 
 
 7. Flank. 
 
 8. Tail-piece. 
 
 9. Neck-piece. 
 
 10. Pate or skull. 
 
 11. Feet. 
 
 The chine of pork, without the back fat, is much 
 used for chops, steaks, or roasting : while some prefer this 
 part (after taking out all the bones) for sausage-meat. 
 
 The back-fat, on the loin, is also taken off in the same 
 manner, when the loin is prepared for either chops or roast- 
 ing. 
 
 This kind of pork is now usually preferred, instead of the 
 small quarters, or that which has the skin usually left on 
 it ; the flesh being considered more luscious from having 
 been better fed and cared for, while it is leaner and thicker. 
 
PIGS, HOGS, AND POEK 83 
 
 The hog intended for bacon is always large and fat, es- 
 pecially that intended for English and " Irish-singed bacon ;" 
 these, however, will be found noticed under the proper head 
 of bacon. 
 
 The figure of the hog on the preceding page represents 
 by the numbers the mode of cutting the carcass for barrel- 
 ing. 
 
 The same mode of cutting is adapted by separating the 
 head from the carcass, then splitting the carcass, cutting off 
 the fresh hams and feet, tearing out the leaf and kidney fat, 
 taking out the tenderloin — as previously shown. Then the 
 head (Nos. 10 and 3) is divided by cutting, off the cheeks, 
 beginning from the corner of the mouth, following the line 
 towards No. 9 (see fig. 1, A B,) and saw off the jaw-bone, 
 which separates the cheeks from the pate ; then crack the 
 bone of the under jaw, between the front teeth, and the 
 cheeks are held together to hang up by. Next take off the 
 shoulder by cutting straight across the side, as shown fig. 1 
 (B) ; then trim off the spare-ribs, by cutting under the 
 breast-bone, and so follow the ribs as far as the chine-bone, 
 when the knife is continued on directly to the end of the 
 long bones in the back, which leaves the shoulder about one 
 thickness, and the spare-ribs (not too spare), with meat 
 enough left on under tKem to make a roast. Then trim 
 the shoulder round (see No. 2), saw off the feet, which 
 forms the shoulder similar to a ham. The brisket and 
 flanks are' now cut off ; the ribs (5, 5) and loin (4, 4) pieces 
 are cut in suitable sizes, when all are ready to salt, except 
 that the trimmings and some other pieces can be used for 
 sausages. The leaf-fat and pieces of fat, rendered into 
 lard ; and the pate, etc. for head-cheese. 
 
 The perk tenderloins, when cut out of pork, are 
 usually sold separately at a higher price than the other 
 parts. Their ordinary weight is from half to one pound 
 each. Many consider them the choicest part of the pork ; 
 but, as already observed, they are usually found tender, but 
 dry and tasteless. 
 
84 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 ifleasly pork.— The flesh of the hog, with this dis- 
 ease, when slaughtered, is exceedingly unwholesome, and is 
 not fit to be used for any purpose. It may be known by 
 the many yellowish lumps or kernels seen through the fat 
 and lean, as well as the flesh having a heavy, dull appear- 
 ance. 
 
 GOAT'S FLESH. 
 
 These animals are sometimes found in our markets 
 dressed for sale, but their flesh is considered inferior to 
 that of mutton. Although that from a young wether goat 
 or kid is very tender and sweet, but has not so agreeable a 
 flavor as mutton or lamb, nor is it so easily digested — the 
 flavor partaking the character of venison. 
 
 A very fine, fat goat, killed after the fashion of the Jews, 
 by Bernheim & Sons, Jefferson Market, May 9, 1856, 
 weighed, when alive, ninety-six pounds, and after being 
 dressed, including the head and haslet, weighed sixty-four 
 pounds, exclusive of sixteen pounds of rough fat. 
 
 The flesh had much the appearance of stag or ram 
 mutton, the fat being of a reddish color, soft and oily ; the 
 lean was dark in color, but juicy and tender. Those who 
 partook of it were well satisfied, though no doubt the flavor 
 
 Note. — Some curious market laws of the Island of Antigua, West India 
 Islands, are found noticed in the New Haven Gazette, October 26, 1786, 
 which parts of, refer to the pig and hog. . One of which says : 
 
 " Be it enacted, that all choate (pigs) exceeding nine pounds a quarter, be 
 esteemed hog, and so sold, and that no flesh be esteemed veal, except the 
 clerk of the market really approve it as such. 
 
 " And, whereas, the office of clerk of the market is very troublesome and 
 of small advantage ; be it therefore enacted, that the offices of " common 
 crier,' and ' common whipper,' in the respective towns of this island, be 
 added thereto, with all the fees, perquisites, and advantages belonging, or 
 which shall belong to the same. 
 
 " And be it enacted, for the encouragement of poor people, who for the 
 most part do raise stock to supply the markets of this island, all rumps, 
 sirloins, and buttocks of beef, be esteemed choice pieces, and sold at eight 
 pence per pound." 
 
THE PARTS WE USE FROM DOMESTIC ANIMALS. 85 
 
 would have been much improved had a few days longer 
 keeping of the carcass been allowed by the Jewish laws — 
 the Jews not being permitted to eat flesh killed over three 
 days, without it goes through a cleansing process by a 
 shoket, or unless none other is to be had. 
 
 THE PARTS WE USE FROM DOMESTIC 
 ANIMALS. 
 
 There are many choice dishes prepared from various parts 
 of the domestic animals used for food, which in former times 
 were either sold for a mere trifle or thrown away. The in- 
 crease of domestic animals has, by no means, been pro-rata 
 with the rapid and vast increase of our population, hence 
 prices have increased to double what they were in the 
 " olden time ," the consequence of which is, we find, a grad- 
 ual increased demand for such portions of the animal as 
 were once altogether refused, or considered unfit to be 
 eaten, or too troublesome to repay for the time consumed 
 in preparing them into proper food. These considerations 
 — of high prices, professional cooks, or " artists" — with 
 cookery books and foreign cookery notions, have introduced 
 a system of knowledge as to the preparation of excellent 
 and cheap dishes from the various and numerous parts of 
 the domestic animals. 
 
 In presenting these remarks to notice, I ask attention 
 particularly to the choosing and judging which are the best, 
 with the general uses of the different parts which follow, 
 commencing with those taken from 
 
 NEAT CATTLE. 
 
 Beeves' tongue. This part of the animal has always 
 been considered a delicacy. When purchasing, choose 
 those which are thick, firm, and with plenty of fat on the 
 i under side. They are used, when fresh, for mince pies, 
 stews, etc., and, when pickled or smoked, for boiling, and, 
 
86 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 when cold, are excellent eating. In the living animal's 
 mouth, the tongue is very rough, being almost a compact 
 bed of spines, which nature has furnished to draw the grass 
 or other food into the mouth, as well as to scratch or lick 
 its body ; these spines, however, come off of the tongue with 
 the skin when boiled. 
 
 Beeves' liver. The best liver presents a clear, bright, 
 yellowish-red color, although that which is of a clear, dark 
 color is good ; and mashing easily under the pressure of the 
 finger, is a sure sign of tenderness. But those affected with 
 dark, " sedgy" streaks, sandy spots and abscesses, are un- 
 wholesome and unfit to be eaten. These are known as 
 "sedgy livers," which, no doubt, is caused by the animal 
 drinking from the Western pools of water and swallowing a 
 small leech, or bloodsucker, as boys used to call them. T 
 have frequently taken them from the liver in a perfect state, 
 and again, on an examination, I have found these leeches 
 filled with blood, and a gritty substance like sand ; others, 
 again, present their contents as if in a dissolving condition, 
 which we find in darkish streaks scattered through the sub- 
 stance of the liver. When in the course of the natural heal- 
 ing of these parts, we find numerous sinewy, tough, light 
 streaks, or scars, through them, which would always remain, 
 like the healing up of an old sore. 
 
 Thirty or forty years ago, almost all our Western cattle 
 would have these bad livers, when they were compelled to 
 be driven on foot through to our (New York) city ; but since 
 the rail-cars, steamboats, etc., have carried them, we do not 
 so often find bad livers. 
 
 A remarkably fine, large liver was sold in Jefferson Mar- 
 ket, in December, 1860, taken from a small, Kentucky heifer. 
 It was very yellow, tender, and fine, and weighed twenty- 
 eight and one-half pounds. The cause of this being so large 
 — from so small an animal — was conjectured to be, that 
 the animal had been fed upon hot or cooked food, and kept 
 in a very warm place. The distillery, or " swill-fed" cows 
 generally have large, handsome livers, but not well-flavored. 
 
THE PAETS WE USE FEOM DOMESTIC ANIMALS. 87 
 
 Beeves' heart. Those with a large quantity of nice, 
 clear fat around the top part are the best. They are usually 
 stuffed and roasted, or stewed, and make a good, wholesome, 
 and nutritious meal, and one of the cheapest in the animal. 
 
 Beeves 5 kidney. There are two kidneys in each ani- 
 mal ; the best are without dark spots, or water bladders, 
 but of a clear, dark, reddish color. Used for stewing, broil- 
 ing, etc. 
 
 Beeves 5 suet. This untried fat is taken from around 
 the kidney, and is much drier, shorter, more tender, and 
 firmer than the common meat or flesh fat. It should also 
 be white, clear (not bloody), and easily break or crumble 
 into very small pieces ; it is much used in mince pies, pud- 
 dings, candles, etc. 
 
 Beeves' gilt fat is much like suet, but has more fibre 
 through it. The Jews use this in cooking in the place of 
 lard, which, by their laws, they discard ; but it must be from 
 animals slaughtered and regularly sealed by their slioket, or 
 Jew butcher. 
 
 Some people imagine that beeves' fat or suet is the same 
 as tallow, and I once read of a case where a tallow-chandler 
 by the name of Webb charged a prisoner with stealing his 
 tallow (instead of fat). The prisoner having no counsel, the 
 judge became his* advocate, and asked the prosecutor : 
 
 Judge. — " How do you know, Webb, that you lost just 
 eighty-nine pounds of tallow?" 
 
 Webb. — " I am sure of it, my lord." 
 
 Judge. — " I want to be sure of it, too. Do you keep an 
 account of what you receive or what you use ?" 
 
 Webb.— "No, my lord." 
 
 Judge. — " What, no book in which you minute down your 
 goods ?" 
 
 Webb. — " Yes, my lord, I keep a day-book." 
 
 Judge. — " Well, that is what I wanted : and did you, in 
 this book, make an entry of the tallow received, or taken 
 from it, for the purpose of making candles ?" 
 
 Webb. — " No, my lord, for it was not fit to make candles of." 
 
88 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 Judge. — " Why, then, man, it was not tallow." 
 
 Webb. — " Yes it was, my lord." 
 
 Judge. — " Then why not fit to make candles ? 2 ' 
 
 Webb. — " Because, my lord, it was not run into tallow." 
 
 Judge. — " Not run into tallow ?" 
 
 Webb.— "No, my lord." 
 
 Judge. — " Why, then, it must be fat, and not tallow?' 
 
 Webb. — " Yes, my lord." 
 
 Judge. — "Ah ! that's very well. Gentlemen of the Jury : 
 You find, by the prosecutor's own evidence, that you must 
 acquit the prisoner. This man charges the prisoner with 
 stealing talloio. The prosecutor is a tallow-chandler, and 
 yet you hear from his own mouth that he does not know the 
 difference between tallow and fat." 
 
 The prisoner was acquitted. 
 
 Beeves' or cows' udder. An udder from a young, 
 dry cow, when nicely corned and boiled, is very good eating. 
 Some parboil and roast it. 
 
 Beeves' head. From the sides of the head the ox- 
 cheek is cut, which makes an excellent soup : or, the head is 
 broken or cracked with an axe, the brains taken out and then 
 boiled, so that the meat can be taken off easily from the 
 bones. For making mince pies, meat puddings, etc. 
 
 The Germans cut off the nose, and prepare a dish called 
 ox mow. It is sawed off through the nostril bones, leaving 
 on the grisly skin, then boiled until all the bones can be re- 
 moved easily, when it is usually fried or soused, etc. Said 
 to be good eating. 
 
 Beeves' or ox marrow is taken from the marrow 
 bones, principally from the hind-quarter. It should smell 
 sweet, look clear, and be of quite a straw-color. Sold by 
 the pound, and used for pomatums and cookery. 
 
 Marrow bones. These are cut from three to five 
 inches long, and, when for the table, should be quite fresh. 
 Either for roasting or boiled, after being covered with a 
 floured cloth ; to be used on toast instead of butter, etc. 
 
 Trijjie. This article of food is always found cleaned, 
 
THE PARTS WE USE FROM DOMESTIC ANIMALS. 89 
 
 and generally boiled ready for use. In selecting tripe, 
 choose that which is white, thick, and fat. Many prefer the 
 part called the night-cap or honeycomb ; others again the 
 thick seam ; and some again the thin part. In the spring 
 and summer seasons it is apt to have a greenish look on 
 the inner side, in consequence of the animal feeding on 
 grass. However, when dark and quite thin, it is either from 
 eating or drinking distillery swill, or is from an animal dis- 
 eased, and becomes dangerous food. 
 
 I>x tails. The word ox is more particularly used with 
 this article. These are seldom found ready for sale, but 
 when ordered are furnished by the " help." They are gen- 
 erally sold attached to the hides. An excellent and savory 
 soup is made from them. Three tails will make a common 
 tureen of soup. Prior to 1685 the butchers of London, in 
 disposing of the bullocks' hides to the felt-mongers, were 
 accustomed to leave on the tails. The French refugees, 
 however, bought them up, and introduced into use that nu- 
 tritive dish called " ox-tail soup." 
 
 Sweet breads and skirts. These were known many 
 years ago by many of the poor inhabitants near slaughter- 
 houses. They consisted of two strips of thin, skinny meat 
 attached to the ribs and plate-pieces. These were cut out, 
 and, with the (coarse) sweet-breads (more particularly no- 
 ticed under the head of " Sweet-Breads from Calves"), were 
 tied in a bunch with a rope-yarn, and generally sold from 
 the slaughter-houses. These were a part of the perquisites 
 given to apprentice boys above twenty years ago ; but since 
 that time the perquisite system has been changed, and in 
 lieu more wages are paid. 
 
 Beeves' palates. These palates, which lay at the 
 roof of the mouth, I have lately learned through " one of 
 the great generals of the age" (Scott), who had enjoyed 
 the eating of them prepared at the South, and who pro- 
 nounced them excellent eating. 
 
 Ox feet, ©r c©w fieels. These are principally used 
 by foreigners in making fricassee, stews, bake, jellies, etc., 
 
90 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 after having been scalded and dressed as the calves' feet. 
 They require five or six hours' boiling. The fat skimmings 
 of ox feet or cow heels is called " neat's foot oil." 
 
 Beeves 5 drains. These are used- in many of the 
 dishes, as those prepared from calves' or sheep's brains, 
 but are not so delicate. 
 
 Beeves' or ox gall. These greenish bladders, or the 
 contents, are used for various purposes, such as cleaning 
 cloths, carpets, removing oil-stains, for liniments, salves, and 
 also the mixing of paints. Buy it in the original bladder ; 
 and that which is quite thick, of a darkish green, and feels 
 like glue, is the oldest and best. "When scarce and in de- 
 mand, some boys, to enlarge their perquisites as well as the 
 size of the gall, adopt the plan of a dishonest milkman. 
 
 Ox eye§. These are called for sometimes by the medi- 
 cal student for examination and study ; and I have known 
 them to have been prepared in sauces for the table. 
 
 Ox or c©ws' teeth. Thirty years ago the teeth from 
 an old ox or cow, when about half worn out, were used by 
 dentists. In that state they are tough and solid. Many a 
 set, cut off with a small piece of the jaw, have I sold for 
 twenty-five and fifty cents, within the above time, to one 
 whose reputation has always stood at the head of his pro- 
 fession (Dr. Eleazer Parmly), then residing at No. 11 Park 
 Place, mineral teeth being then unknown. 
 
 Beeves' casiiis. When the animal is slaughtered the 
 small gut is stripped for the sausage-maker. They clean 
 and prepare them, when they are then known as beeves' 
 casins. Those from lambs and hogs are also used. An- 
 other part is called bung-gut, the largest portion and an 
 end of the larger intestines, which is generally used, when 
 cleaned, for head-cheese. 
 
 Cattle's ieet. These are usually sold by the butchers 
 for one year (from " new-year" to " new-year" again). The 
 present price (1858) is about six dollars per hundred feet. 
 Their principal use is in making glue, and the bones and 
 hoofs are afterwards used in making buttons and Prussian 
 
THE PAKTS WE USE FKOM DOMESTIC ANIMALS. 91 
 
 blue. Mr. Peter Cooper is the heaviest purchaser for the 
 last forty years, and has them gathered daily from the 
 slaughter-houses in our city. 
 
 Hoaaes. Those which are daily collected by being taken 
 from the various parts of the different animals when cut up, 
 and from " cracking" or taking off shanks. Blade, socket, 
 chine, and other bones, are collected together and sold, 
 usually by the boys (as a perquisite), to the bone-gatherers 
 at about forty cents per bushel. Some of them are used 
 by the turners for handles, buttons — some for bone-black, 
 etc., after they have been well boiled, that the marrow and 
 fat may all be extracted. 
 
 Fbom Calves. 
 
 Sweet breads. These, no doubt, are the greatest 
 delicacy of the meat kind. There are but two in a calf, one 
 from the neck or throat, called " throat sweet-bread ;" the 
 other from or near the heart, which is known as the " heart 
 sweet-bread." The largest are the best, and the latter, or 
 heart sweet-bread, the most delicate. Their color should 
 be clear, and a shade darker than the fat of the same 
 animal. 
 
 Calves' lieads. These are usually found with hair 
 scalded and shaved cleanly off, and, when fresh, the eyes 
 have a bright, full look, while the skin seems firmly fast- 
 ened to the head. There should also be a prominent rise 
 or appearance of the young horn, to denote that the ani- 
 mal was old enough. If the head should be small and no 
 signs of horns, it shows that the animal was too young to 
 be wholesome food. Never purchase either calves' head or 
 feet if they have a yellowish look, or a slippery or slimy 
 feeling. The nose (yours) will detect a bad smell in the 
 brains, more particularly when the head is cracked or split 
 open. The head makes the mock-turtle soup, or a plain 
 boil, etc. The head is sometimes found skinned, when it is 
 not so valuable, or only fit for a plain soup or boil, etc. 
 
92 THE MABKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 Calves' feet. — Although these and the preceding are 
 usually sold together, yet their uses are generally different. 
 Very small feet are not generally good, in consequence of 
 the risk that they are from too young a calf. Their uses 
 are principally for the excellent jelly, or they are cooked in 
 with the head. 
 
 Calves' tongues are sometimes taken out and used 
 separately for stewing, or salted, boiled, pickled, etc. 
 
 Calves' brains. — With some preparation, very nice, 
 delicate sauces and other dishes are made, but it requires 
 the skill of a cook. They are taken out when the calf's 
 head is cracked open. 
 
 Calves' eyes are also used separately by many for- 
 eigners, in sauces, etc. 
 
 Calves' haslet. — This comprises the heart, liver, and 
 lights (sometimes also the melt), connected together ; but 
 when separated they appear with the names of calves' liver, 
 calves' heart, and calves' lights. This liver is the best of 
 all the animal livers, and I do not except the famous pate de 
 fois or goose liver. Both the heart and liver are used for 
 frying, boiling, roasting, etc., but when for a hash, the lights 
 can be used. 
 
 Calves' kidneys. — These are usually found in the loins 
 of veal, but are sometimes taken out and sold separately. 
 They are the best of all kidneys. 
 
 Calves' entrails and fat or chitterlings. — This 
 part of the calf, prepared by the Germans and French, is 
 made into an excellent dish, which I have eaten with a good 
 relish. They are taken from the calf while warm, then the 
 entire gut is slit or cut open, well cleaned and soaked, and 
 they are ready for use. 
 
 Calves' melt. — This small, dark piece, attached to the 
 lights, is seldom used in this country, but it is said to make 
 a very good dish when prepared by the English cook. I 
 give one receipt for cooking it : After soaking three or four 
 hours in a little salt and water, and also a little vinegar, 
 wipe dry, pepper it well, and boil it. 
 
THE PAETS WE USE FEOM DOMESTIC ANIMALS. 93 
 
 EKOM SHEEP AND LAMBS. 
 
 Lauibs' frys and sweet-breads are generally found 
 in our markets in the spring and summer months, on dishes, 
 nicely cleaned, and prepared ready for use. Some sprinkle 
 a little parsley to decorate them. They are considered, and 
 certainly are, delicious eating, known as mountain oysters. 
 
 Lambs' and sheep's tongues. — These can be had, 
 fresh or salted, from the boys, being one of their perquisites, 
 They generally want some trimming before they are reac' 
 for use. These small pickled tongues are an excellent lunc 
 when nicely prepared. The best are from the lambs. 
 
 Lambs' and sheep's haslet, or pluck — These con- 
 sist of the heart, liver, and lights of the lamb or sheep. 
 Sold at low prices. The lamb's haslet is better flavored, 
 more tender, and not so dry eating as the sheep's. In some 
 parts of England the name pluck designates only the lights, 
 or lungs, and thirty years ago it was a common name for 
 all haslets in New York. 
 
 Lambs' and sheep's kidneys* — A great many kid- 
 neys are taken out of the loin suet, and are sold and used 
 separately. The French are particularly fond of them. 
 Used for stews, broils, etc. Those from lambs are the best. 
 
 Lambs' and sheep's heads. — Many foreigners use 
 them, after having the brains and tongue taken out, the 
 wool or hair singed or shaved off, which leaves a considera- 
 ble quantity of flesh on the head. They make an excellent 
 ! broth, for a very small sum and little trouble. The " Tup's 
 I Head Dinner," about Michaelmas, was once held in high 
 repute. 
 
 Lambs' and sheep's brains and eyes. — The brains 
 are the most called for, and are used in sauces and other 
 delicate dishes. ' The eyes are sometimes used with them : 
 occasionally they are used for study by the student. 
 
 Sheep's suet. — A great deal of this suet is used in 
 making salves for chapped hands, etc. 
 
94 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 Lamps' or sheep's trotters. — Prepared like calves' 
 feet, then soaked in water until quite white, when they are 
 ready for use. They are best stewed. 
 
 Lambs' or sheep's melt. — Prepared in the same 
 manner as the calves' melt, but not quite so good eating. 
 
 Lambs' grits or easing are cleaned and prepared by 
 the sausage-makers to fill for sausages. Those that you 
 find of the small size are the caseins from the lambs. The 
 sheep caseins cannot be used here for that purpose ; but I 
 im informed by Professor Thurber that they are used in 
 
 mth America : after having been cleaned they are rolled 
 
 p into a ball and roasted in the earth, and he found them 
 ood eating. 
 
 Sheep's paunch, or stomach. — An excellent dish is 
 made of this article by the Scotch, called " Scotch haggis." 
 The following was furnished to me by Mrs. John Duncan : 
 
 " Procure the large stomach-bag (paunch) of a sheep, also 
 one of the smaller bags, called the king's hood, together with 
 the pluck, which is the lights, the liver, and the heart. 
 
 " The bags must be well washed, first in cold water, then 
 plunged in boiling water, and scraped. Great care must be 
 taken of the large bag ; let it lie and soak in cold water, 
 with a little salt, all night. Wash also the pluck. You will 
 now boil the small bag along with the pluck; in boiling 
 leave the windpipe attached, and let the end of it hang over 
 the edge of the pot, so that impurities may pass freely out. 
 Boil for an hour and a half, and take the whole from the 
 pot. When cold, cut away the windpipe, and any bits of 
 skin or gristle that seem improper. Grate the quarter of 
 the liver (not using the remainder of the haggis), and mince 
 the heart, lights, and small bag very small, along with half 
 a pound of beef suet. Mix all this mince with two small 
 teacupfuls of oatmeal — previously dried before the fire — 
 black and Jamaica pepper and salt ; also add half a pint of 
 the liquor in which the pluck was boiled, or beef gravy. 
 Stir all together into a consistency. Then take the large 
 bag, which has been thoroughly cleaned, and put the mince 
 
THE PARTS WE USE FKOM DOMESTIC ANIMALS. 95 
 
 into it. Fill it only a little more than half full, in order to 
 leave room for the meal and meat to expand. If crammed 
 too full it will burst in boiling. Sew up the bag with a 
 needle and thread. The haggis is now complete. Put it in 
 a pot with boiling water, and prick it occasionally with a 
 large needle, as it swells, to allow the air to escape. If the 
 bag appears thin, tie a cloth outside the skin. There should 
 be a plate placed beneath it to prevent its sticking to the 
 bottom of the pot. Boil it for three hours. It is served on 
 a dish without garnish, and requires no gravy, as it is suffi- 
 ciently rich in itself." 
 
 Another way. Procure a good thick sheep's paunch, with- 
 out holes or thin parts, and have it well cleaned. Clean a 
 sheep's pluck, or haslet, thoroughly, make incisions in the 
 heart and liver to allow the blood to flow out, and parboil the 
 whole, letting the windpipe lie over the side of the pot to 
 permit the phlegm and blood to disgorge from the lungs : 
 the water may be changed after a few minutes' boiling for 
 fresh water. A half hour's boiling will be sufficient ; but 
 throw back the half of the liver, to boil until it will grate 
 easily ; take the heart, the half of the liver, and part of the 
 lights, trimming away all skins and black-looking parts, and 
 mince them together. Mince also a pound of good beef suet, 
 and four or more onions. Grate the other half of the liver. 
 Half a dozen of small onions, peeled and scalded in two 
 waters, to mix with this mince. Have ready some finely- 
 ground oatmeal, toasted slowly before the fire for four hours, 
 till it is of a light brown color and perfectly dry. Less than 
 two teacupfuls of meal will do for this quantity of meat. 
 Spread the mince on a board and strew the meal lightly 
 over it, with a high seasoning of pepper, salt, and a little 
 cayenne, first well mixed. Put in tho meat with a half-pint 
 of good beef gravy, or as much strong broth as will make it 
 a very thick stew. Be careful not to fill the bag too full, 
 but allow the meat room to swell ; add the juice of a lemon, 
 or a little good vinegar ; press out the air and sew up the 
 bag ; prick it with a large needle when it first swells in the 
 
96 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 pot, to prevent bursting ; let it boil slowly for three hours, 
 if large. 
 
 FROM SHOATS AND HOGS. 
 
 Pig's head and tongue are applied to many uses. 
 Some are sold either fresh for roasting, head-cheese, etc., 
 or corned, for a plain boil; others have their chops or 
 cheeks taken off, salted and smoked, with or without the 
 tongue and the balance. 
 
 Pig's pate, or skull, is either made into head-cheese, 
 fresh, or plain boiled when corned and salted, after having 
 been properly cracked and cleansed. 
 
 Pig's tongue. — This is excellent eating when prepared, 
 as the sheep's tongue. There are a few persons who use 
 them fresh. 
 
 Pig's hocks. — The top part of the fore-leg, from the 
 knee up to the shoulder, is usually called the hock. In very 
 small animals the foot is left with it, and sold together as 
 pig's feet. The hocks are generally corned or salted for 
 boiling, etc. 
 
 Pig's ears are sometimes used for a boil or souse, or 
 put in head-cheese. 
 
 Pig's feet. — A great many are sold in the fresh state, 
 for stewing, boiling, or sousing, but are usually preferred 
 corned for the latter purpose or a plain boil. They should 
 be well cleaned of hair, and the hoofs taken off. 
 
 Pig's kidneys. — Yery good dishes are made from 
 these kidneys, especially from the shoats, either stewed, 
 fricasseed, fried, or broiled. 
 
 Pig's haslets. — These are seldom found in our mar- 
 kets. They are generally sold at the slaughter-houses, or 
 made into meat-puddings, etc. This is one of the poorest 
 domestic animal's haslets or livers. 
 
 ILeaf-fat, or leaf-lard. — The fat taken from the in- 
 side, which adheres to the ribs and belly, is called leaf- 
 fat. In this untried state it is used for many purposes in 
 cookery. 
 
THE PAETS WE USE FKOM DOMESTIC ANIMALS. 97 
 
 MEATS USED AS COENED, SALTED, SMOKED, AND OTHEEWISE 
 PEEPAEED, ETC. 
 
 There are so many different ways of corning, salting, or 
 curing, and other preparations of meat, that a person might 
 question all those they may meet engaged in it — " How do 
 you cure or prepare (certain) meats ? Their answers would 
 seldom be two alike ; and each would recommend his re- 
 ceipt as the best. Many have also a little variation in the 
 manner of cutting irp the various animals in their different 
 joints, and also in the preparation of their flesh. 
 
 Some of the Western packers use nearly the whole animal 
 to " barrel." Some, again, put certain of the choice pieces 
 together, and the other qualities divided, making sometimes 
 three or four grades, with names to correspond. But our 
 public-market butchers, and those who deal in prepared 
 meats, select certain pieces from the various animals for 
 their different and numerous uses, some of which I have 
 noticed elsewhere. 
 
 Time for salting meat. — Meat should be salted in 
 cool weather, as soon as it shall stiffen or become rigid. If 
 in warm or hot weather, the animal should be killed in the 
 afternoon, and the next morning salted, and placed in an 
 ice-house. If in freezing weather, it should be salted be- 
 fore freezing, as I have known frozen beef to lay in strong 
 pickle two weeks, and then salted only on the surface — the 
 inside being still frozen and fresh. 
 
 Corned and salted toeef — The pieces generally used 
 for this purpose are the plate, navel, brisket, top of sirloin, 
 etc., which have the fat mixed through them. Many, how- 
 ever, prefer the rumps, sockets (or face-rump), edge-bones, 
 and rounds, on account of their leanness and the delicacy 
 of the outside fat. The kernels, or pope's-eye, in the 
 rounds (centre-fat), flanks, necks, and shoulder-clods, if to 
 be corned or salted, or even kept for any length of time, 
 should be extracted, as it is the first part or thing to spoil. 
 
98 THE MAKKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 Jerked heef. — This name was early given to the fol- 
 lowing process of curing beef : first, all the bones are taken 
 out; then the flesh is cut into sheets, or thin pieces, put 
 into a strong pickle, or rubbed with dry salt, and packed 
 away for two or three days, when it is thoroughly salted ; / 
 then spread out in the sun to dry hard, gathered together, 
 and dry packed in boxes of two and three hundred pounds 
 each, and generally sent to some of the West India islands. 
 
 About the year 1825, there were large quantities put up 
 in this city, made from all the low-priced fleshy animals, 
 such as bulls, stags, and any coarse, thin cattle that had the 
 least flesh on their bones, with sometimes the coarse parts 
 of other beef-cattle. I recollect one instance, about this 
 time, of having to assist in slaughtering one hundred bulls, 
 that were bought and sent in one drove to my employer for 
 this purpose. It was the principal source of disposing of 
 *ne poor, often diseased, and the unmarketable fleshy cattle, 
 the flesh of which could not be sold in pur public markets, 
 in consequence of the stringency of the market laws. The 
 making of jerked beef, in large quantities, continued until 
 about fifteen years ago (1840), when I believe it failed to 
 be profitable. 
 
 Corned mutton. — The legs, chine, and shoulders, are 
 sometimes corned, and are excellent eating when boiled. 
 
 Corned and salted pork. — For family use, the car- 
 cass is cut up for salting, or parts are reserved fresh for 
 sausages, steaks, etc. For market purposes, the loin and 
 chine, or shoulder and ribs, of shoats are usually kept fresh, 
 and the legs, brisket, and flanks for the above purpose ; if 
 the animal is quite small, the loins and chine are also used. 
 If the hogs are large and fat, the back-fat is taken off clear 
 and salted; when cured it is used for various purposes. 
 When the rib-bones are taken out of the thick side-pork, it 
 is generally called " clear pork ;" this is also corned or 
 salted. The brisket of pork is usually the part which takes 
 in the leg-half of the shoulder. The brisket and flank to- 
 gether are an excellent piece when corned. 
 
THE PAETS WE USE FROM DOMESTIC ANIMALS. 99 
 
 €a^red and smoked meats. — In beef, three pieces 
 are taken from .the buttock (for particulars see buttock) — the 
 inside, outside, and veiny pieces. These are generally used 
 for smoking after having been salted from three to four 
 weeks. The plates, navels, briskets, and tongues (see 
 tongues), are also excellent, when prepared in the above 
 manner, to boil with greens. 
 
 In mutton, the legs are sometimes cured and smoked, but 
 seldom thus prepared in our cities, as the demand for these 
 parts is greater than for any others. 
 
 In pork : the hams, bacon, shoulders, chops or cheeks ; 
 and the prepared meats — bologna and smoked sausages, 
 etc. The best hams, whether corned or cured and smoked, 
 are from eight to -fourteen pounds weight, having a thin 
 skin, fat solid (white, if corned), and a small, short, 
 tapering leg or shank. Try with a skewer (if buying 
 of a stranger), running from the flesh-side towards the 
 shank; the skewer, when drawn, should smell sweet and 
 agreeable. 
 
 Bacon. — The .part of the shoat or hog commonly used 
 here for bacon is the thin part of the ribs and belly, salted, 
 and either dried or slightly smoked; some also use spices, 
 sugar, etc. If it be not too thick and fat, it is generally 
 preferred. The regular bacon of England, however, is dif- 
 ferently prepared ; and there it is usually called " flitch of 
 bacon," when cured in the following manner. The hog 
 having been slaughtered, instead of scalding the hair off, it 
 is burned off with straw, then shaven clean with cold water, 
 and dressed. When cooled through, it is divided, the hams 
 and head taken off, and the bloody veins carefully removed. 
 The spare-ribs and other bones are then taken out, and the 
 whole covered with fine salt and a small quantity of salt- 
 petre, with also a little brown sugar, which gives a pleasant 
 flavor to the bacon. The flitches are laid down upon one 
 another and re-salted daily, when the top one is put under, 
 for about three weeks. They are then hung up to dry, or 
 very slightly and slowly smoked. The Irish singed bacon 
 
100 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 is cured here, by some of our large packers, in pretty much 
 the same manner. 
 
 A curious custom originated at a very early period, of 
 presenting a flitch of bacon to all married couples upon 
 certain conditions, which are fully explained in the follow- 
 ing. The New York Gazette and Post Boy, September 30, 
 1751, shows that, " On the 20th of last month (June), John 
 Shakeshanks, wool-comber, and Anne his wife, of the parish 
 of Weathersfield, in Essex, appeared at the customary 
 court of the manor of Dunmow-park, in that county, and 
 claimed the bacon, according to the custom of that manor, 
 which was delivered to them with the usual formalities — 
 this is the only claim that has been made since the year 
 1701." 
 
 " The famous old story is as follows, viz. : one Robert 
 Fitzwalter, a powerful baron in this country, in the reign of 
 Henry III., instituted a custom in the priory there, that, 
 ' Whatever married man did not repent of being married, 
 or differ and dispute with his wife, within a year and a day 
 after his marriage, if he and his wife would swear to the 
 truth of it, kneeling upon two stones in the priory church- 
 yard, set up for that purpose, in presence of the prior and 
 convent, should have a gammon of bacon.' This custom is 
 still kept up, notwithstanding the dissolution of the monas- 
 teries, only instead of the prior and convent, the business 
 is now transacted at a court-baron, held before the steward 
 of the lord of the manor. It may be some amusement to 
 our readers to see the words of the oath on this occasion, 
 which are to the following purpose, viz. : 
 
 " You do swear by custom of confession, 
 That you ne'er made nuptial transgression ; 
 Nor since you were married man and wife, 
 By household brawls, or contentious strife, 
 Or otherwise, in bed or at board, 
 Offended each other in deed or in word ; 
 Or in a twelvemonth's time and a day, 
 Repented not in thought any way ; 
 Or since the church-clerk said Amen, 
 
THE PARTS WE USE FROM DOMESTIC ANIMALS. 101 
 
 Wished yourselves unmarried again, 
 
 But continue true, and in desire, 
 
 As when you joined hands in holy choir." 
 
 The sentence pronounced for their receiving the bacon is 
 in words to the effect following, viz. : 
 
 " Since to the conditions, without any fear, 
 Of your own accord you do freely swear, 
 A whole gammon of bacon you do receive, 
 And bear it away with love and good leave, 
 Kor this is the custom of Dunmow well-known ; 
 Tho' the pleasure be ours, the bacon's your own." 
 
 Then, twenty-six years afterwards, the New York Journal, 
 of 1767, notices the flitch of bacon claimed again. Among 
 the London news, dated June 9th, was — " A certain Irish 
 nobleman and his lady went last Thursday to Dunmow, in 
 Essex, in order to claim the flitch of bacon, which, accord- 
 ing to the custom of the manor, is given to those who swear 
 that they repented not of their marriage within a year and 
 a day after the celebration thereof. This is the first time 
 that persons of their rank have laid claim to it." The same 
 paper, a few years after — " We have an account from Dun- 
 mow, in Essex, that there were computed to be five thou- 
 sand people there from all parts to see the ceremony of de- 
 livering the bacon to the couple who had not repented of 
 their marriage. The man was examined by a jury of men, 
 and the woman by a jury of women : she declared that she 
 never repented but once, and that was, that she had not 
 married sooner. We have it from undoubted authority that 
 the happy couple made upwards of fifty pounds by selling 
 slices of it to several gentlemen and ladies present, who 
 were whimsically merry on the occasion." 
 
 Shoulders. — The same process of curing hams will also 
 apply to shoulders ; and when purchasing either — in a cured 
 state — should they have a white or dried salt appearance over 
 them, you may conclude they will be very salt, and of course 
 a great deal of the sweetness extracted by having been kept 
 
102 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 in a strong, harsh pickle a long time ; or they have been 
 cured by those who do not understand the business. To be 
 good, they should be bright, clean, and firm. 
 
 Cheeks or Chops. — These are cured with the hams 
 and shoulders, and are very fine when boiled with greens in 
 the spring of the year. Select those which have the most 
 flesh on. 
 
 Bologna Sausages. — There are many receipts for 
 making these fine sausages, of which there appears to be 
 two different kinds — the fresh bologna and dried bologna 
 
 Fresh bologna sausages are prepared usually for immedi- 
 ate use. They are sometimes made of fresh lean beef and 
 pork, having all the fat and sinews extracted and finely 
 chopped ; after which, thin strips of cured back fat are 
 interspersed through, and nicely seasoned. This is forced 
 into cleansed beef casins of different lengths. Smoked 
 (say one night), and boiled, or rather simmered, from one 
 to two hours. When pork is high it is sometimes left out, 
 but retaining the back fat to relieve the lean look, and also 
 to add to their flavor. The other kind, 
 
 Dried bologna sausages, are made for long keeping. They 
 are prepared with salt pork or ham, with the lean fresh beef, 
 and more highly seasoned ; instead of being smoked, they 
 are hung up and dried. But otherwise prepared as the 
 fresh bolognas. 
 
 Bolliches (from the Dutch word roUetje). — This pecu- 
 liar meat preparation was once a famous dish among the 
 ancient Dutch settlers of New Amsterdam, and although 
 the making of it has almost been discontinued in our (New 
 York) State, yet there are many old families in New Jersey 
 and other places, who continue on from year to year, in 
 preparing this as one of their principal dishes, to be used 
 throughout the winter months, especially where fresh meat- 
 is only occasionally to be procured. It is found to be a 
 wholesome article of food when properly prepared, and for 
 the following receipt I am indebted to Mrs. Ann Hill, who 
 
THE PAKTS WE USE FROM DOMESTIC ANIMALS. 103 
 
 has prepared and assisted in its preparation for about 
 twenty years. She says : " Take the fresh, uncooked, but 
 well-cleaned tripe, cut it into eight or ten as near square 
 pieces as possible ; then cut up the flanks and tops of sir- 
 loin pieces of beef, in strips, about as large as a good-sized 
 finger, and lay them so as fat and lean will mix throughout, 
 and enough to fill each piece of the tripe ; pepper and salt 
 should be well sprinkled between each layer of meat (some 
 also add herbs to give peculiar flavors) ; then sew them up 
 tightly and put them into a large pot, and boil slowly, until 
 a broom-wisk or rye-sfcraw can be pushed into them with- 
 out breaking ; they are then taken out, put under a weight, 
 and left so all night ; next morning the fat is skimmed off 
 from the liquor, when the rolliches are put into a tight tub 
 or pot, and a mixture of half vinegar and half pot-liquor is 
 poured over, and enough to cover them ; then a weight 
 placed on top to keep them under. When wanted, one or 
 more is taken out, cut up into thin slices, and warmed up in 
 the liquor in a frying-pan, when they are found to be excel- 
 lent eating." 
 
 They are occasionally found in our markets, having been 
 brought in by the Jersey Dutchmen, who sold them in 
 ordinary times for about twenty-five cents per pound. 
 
 Lard. — Among the many preparations made, no doubt 
 lard is one of the most important in the culinary art. The 
 fat cut from the various parts of the hog — consisting of the 
 leaf fat and the meat fat — is cut into very small pieces, then 
 boiled until quite rendered, that the pieces begin to look 
 quite brown, when it is taken out, and the pieces or scraps 
 heavily pressed. The melted fat, after having passed 
 through a strainer into pots, etc., becomes lard when cool. 
 The best should be white, without a disagreeable smell. 
 
 Saaasages. — The best sausages are prepared altogether 
 from pork, chopped small, seasoned, and run or stuffed into 
 casins. Those made in the city are usually quite small in 
 size, as the meat is run into the lamb casins. 
 
 €otintry sausages, — Those sausages usually made in 
 
104 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 the neighboring country towns are prepared in the same 
 way, but run into beeves' or hogs' casins. Some of the lat- 
 ter are cleanly and well made, and some again are almost 
 as dangerous as some of our city sausages. One plan of 
 deceit is to add a large percentage of water in mixing the 
 meat ; some will add one-eighth or more before it is pressed 
 into the casins, which gives them a very moist, soft, and 
 flabby appearance, while good sausages are firm, and also 
 quite dry on the outside. There is clanger, also, in the kind 
 and quality of the flesh which some use, it being almost 
 impossible to tell, from outward appearance, of what animal 
 or in what condition the flesh was, when hid in those skins ; 
 and the only protection for the buyer is to purchase of those 
 dealers who are certainly known to you, or else to buy the 
 meat and prepare it yourself. 
 
 San sage meat .— This meat is prepared as that for 
 sausages, but not put into casins, and, of course, more open 
 for inspection. Both this and sausages are excellent eating 
 when you feel satisfied that they have been cleanly and 
 properly made ; if not, you had better have nothing to do 
 with them. In fact, the same will apply to all of the pre- 
 pared meats. 
 
 Head-cheese.— This article is made usually of pork, 
 or rather from the meat off of the pig's head, skins, and 
 coarse trimmings. After having been well boiled, the meat 
 is cut up in pieces, seasoned well with sage, salt, and pep- 
 per, and pressed a little, so as to drive out the extra fat and 
 water. Some add the meat from off a cow or ox head, to 
 make it lean, or not so luscious. 
 
 Spiced puddings. — These puddings are made some- 
 what like head-cheese, and generally prepared by the Ger- 
 man dealers, some of whom make large quantities. They 
 are also made of the meat from the pig's chops or cheeks, 
 etc., well spiced and boiled. Some smoke them. 
 
 Slood puddings are usually made from the hog's 
 blood with chopped pork, and seasoned, then put in casins 
 and cooked. Some make them with beef's blood, adding a 
 
THE PAETS WE USE FROM DOMESTIC ANIMALS. 105 
 
 little milk ; but the former is the best, as it is thought to be 
 the richest. 
 
 Common puddings- —These puddings are made of 
 the pork skins, beeves' head meat, pigs' liver, etc., seasoned 
 and stuffed into beef's casins, and cooked. Sold at low 
 prices. These puddings, like the preceding, were more gen- 
 erally used many (forty) years ago by the poorer classes, 
 and especially the hungry laborer, who would take a pair of 
 these puddings (which then weighed one pound) at the cost 
 of three or four cents, and the same amount spent in butter- 
 crackers (nearly or quite as much weight), which would give 
 him a cheap, wholesome, and hearty meal. But of late 
 years the character and reputation of many of these pre- 
 pared meats have been, except in some instances, any thing 
 but " first rate." 
 
 Brawn. — I have no knowledge of brawn being used in 
 this country, although prepared from pork, or, properly, 
 from the wild-boar. The old- country method of making it 
 appears in "Willich's Dom. Ency., and is as follows : 
 
 " The bones being taken out of the flitches (sides) or 
 other parts, the flesh is sprinkled with salt and laid on a 
 tray, that the blood may drain off, after which it is salted a 
 little and rolled up as hard as possible. The length of the 
 collar of brawn should be as much as one side of the boar 
 will bear ; so that when rolled up it may be nine or ten 
 inches in diameter. After being thus rolled up, it is boiled 
 in a copper or large kettle, till it is so tender that you may 
 run a stiff straw through it ; when it is set by till it is thor- 
 oughly cold, and then put into a pickle composed of water, 
 salt, and wheat-bran, in the proportion of two handfuls of 
 each of the latter to every gallon of water, which, after be- 
 ing well boiled together, is strained off as clear as possible 
 from the bran, and, when quite cold, the brawn is put into 
 it." 
 
 IPenMMican. — One of the most useful applications of 
 buffalo meat consists in the preparation of pemmican, an 
 article of food of the greatest importance, from its porta- 
 
106 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 bility and nutritious qualities. This is prepared by cutting 
 the lean meat into thin slices, exposing it to the heat of 
 the sun or fire, and, when dry, pounding it to a powder. 
 It is then mixed with an equal weight of buffalo suet, and 
 stuffed into bladders. Sometimes venison is used instead 
 of buffalo beef. Sir John Richardson, while preparing for 
 his Arctic Expedition, found it necessary to carry with him 
 pemmican from England. ' This he prepared by taking a 
 round or buttock of beef cut into thin steaks, from which 
 the fat and membranous parts were pared away, and dried 
 in a kiln until the fibres of the meat became friable. It 
 was then ground in a malt-mill, and mixed with nearly an 
 equal weight of beef suet or lard. This completed the pre- 
 paration of the plain pemmican ; but to a portion raisins 
 were added, and another portion was sweetened with sugar. 
 These latter changes were subsequently highly approved of 
 by the voyagers. The pemmican was then placed in tin 
 canisters and well rammed down, and after the cooling and 
 contraction of the mass, these were filled up with melted 
 lard through a small hole left in the end, which was then 
 covered with a piece of tin and soldered up." 
 
 Meat biscuit. — A valuable preparation for long voy- 
 ages, etc., prepared by Mr. G. Borden, jr., was introduced 
 here a few years ago. He says : " The meat biscuit con- 
 tains, in a concentrated and portable form, all the nutriment 
 of meat combined with flour .... by drying or bak- 
 ing the mixture in an oven, in the form of a biscuit or 
 cracker." 
 
 Rennet. — To prepare this article for use, take the 
 stomach of an unweaned calf, lamb, kid, or pig (the calf's 
 preferred), empty it of its contents (some preserve the con- 
 tents, curds, for use, but they are generally somewhat of- 
 fensive), wash it slightly with cold water, let it lie ten days 
 in salt, spread it out, and dry it quite hard. To prepare it 
 for use take one quart of soft water, and add salt enough to 
 make a strong pickle ; boil, and let it stand until cold ; 
 break your dry rennet in small pieces, put it in a jar with 
 
THE PARTS WE USE FROM DOMESTIC ANIMALS. 107 
 
 this pickle ; in three days it will be fit for use. Strain, bot- 
 tle, and cork it, and set it in a cool place. 
 
 A quick niode of curing meats'.— The meat to be 
 cured is placed in a strong iron vessel connected by a pipe 
 and stop-cock with the brine-tub, also with an exhausting- 
 pump. The cover having been screwed down on the iron 
 vessel, the air is extracted and a vacuum established ; 
 whereupon the stop-cock being turned, the brine rushes in 
 and takes the place of the air, filling the pores and pene- 
 trating the meat. 
 
 If some of the parts should not be impregnated with the 
 pickle, more is pumped in by a small condensing engine 
 (connected with the iron vessel), until a pressure of from one 
 hundred and fifty to two hundred pounds on the square inch 
 be attained. It is then allowed to remain ten or fifteen 
 minutes under pressure, when the meat will be found to be 
 fully salted or well cured. 
 
 Preserving" meat In a fresh state. — A Doctor 
 Londe, of France, a few years ago, presented a plan for 
 keeping meats in a fresh state for a long period. The pro- 
 cess, is to " bone the meat, as far as practicable, plunge it 
 into a kettle of gelatine, at about the temperature of boil- 
 ing water, where it is held about six minutes, and then hung 
 up to dry. Forty-eight hours later, it is again plunged, 
 with its gelatinous envelope, into a solution of water, and 
 then hung up to dry." 
 
 Several specimens of this kind of preserved meats (which 
 I suppose were the best) were shown by Mr. Marie, as 
 samples, at the fair of the American Institute, held at the 
 Crystal Palace, 1856. One piece of beef, representing five 
 ribs, which appeared to be from a small, thin animal, and 
 would not weigh over seven or eight pounds (not so much 
 as two of our ordinary ribs), appeared to be dry and hard, 
 looking like a piece . of varnished wood, with a smell any 
 thing but agreeable. A leg of mutton, also, that appeared 
 to have been hung up in the sun and dried (as the Indians 
 cure meat, without salt), and then several coats of varnish 
 'dried on it. 
 
108 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 Coring' hams and shoulders. — Bub the meat well 
 with fine salt, when perfectly cool ; lay it in a sweet cask 
 for two days. Then, to every hundred pounds of meat, 
 take eight pounds of ground rock-salt, two ounces of salt- 
 petre, two pounds of sugar, one and a half ounces of pot- 
 ash, and four gallons of water. Mix these well together 
 until quite dissolved; skim it and pour it over the meat, 
 when it should be kept under this brine about six weeks 
 (some boil this pickle, and, when cool, pour it over the 
 meat) ; after which, take out the meat, soak it in cool water 
 for about four to five hours, string the several pieces and 
 hang them up to dry for two days, when they are ready for 
 the smoke-house. 
 
 In the Chelmsford Chronicle (1836), " an ancient ham" is 
 thus spoken of : " Mrs. Hyam, who died on the 19th ult., 
 aged eighty years, received, on the day of her marriage, a 
 present of a ham, with a request that it should not be cut 
 until the birth of her first child. The lady never attained 
 to maternal dignity, and the ham was kept until the funeral 
 — sixty-four years — when it was dressed, and, to the sur- 
 prise of all present, was perfectly good and tender." 
 
 Tainted meat or gam© may be restored as follows : 
 wrap it up in a fine linen cloth, closely, so as to prevent 
 dust or cinders getting in; have ready a pail, or larger 
 vessel of cold water ; take a shovelful, or larger quantity of 
 live wood-coals, and throw in ; then put the meat or game 
 in, and let it He under the water for five or ten minutes 
 (according to the size). After taking it out, all the offen- 
 sive smell will be removed ; but it must be immediately 
 cooked. 
 
 fly-Mown meats.— The fly which usually blows the 
 meat is known as the green or meat fly. They are always, 
 in the warm weather, found wherever there is fish or flesh, 
 slaughter-houses, markets, larders, pantries, etc., which they 
 frequent for the purpose of " blowing," or leaving their eggs 
 in some moist crevice in the meat. These eggs will hatch 
 in a few hours, so that live maggots are seen to creep. 
 
WILD ANIMALS, CALLED GAME. 109 
 
 Many housekeepers imagine that meats in this state are 
 spoiled, and unfit to be used ; but such is not the fact, as a 
 little vinegar or salt and water will wash all signs away. 
 Some also think the fly will not blow the newly -killed meats. 
 I have known them to blow in fifteen minutes after the 
 animal has been dressed, and in four hours afterwards 
 found them creeping. 
 
 Frozen meat and poultry. — Meat and poultry, of 
 all kinds, should never be frozen, if it is possible to avoid 
 it ; it changes the flavor of the flesh, as well as the juices, 
 as it does vegetables and fruit. Nor will meats ripen, or, 
 rather, grow tender, in that state. But, if frozen, it should 
 not be thawed until ready for use, and then not in a warm 
 room gradually, as that will make it flabby and very soon 
 become putrid or spoiled, and, when cooked, be deficient in 
 its flavor. The proper way is to place it in a vessel, cover 
 it with cold water, and there keep until the ice is thawed 
 out, which will be found to form around it. 
 
 T© make beef tender. — If the weather is cool 
 enough to keep the beef over-night, it should be cut into 
 slices (about two inches thick) ; then rub over each piece a 
 small quantity of carbonate of soda, and lay it down on 
 dishes until just before cooking, when it should be washed 
 off, and cut into pieces or steaks of suitable thickness, and 
 cooked as wanted. This process will answer for any kind 
 of flesh or fowl. In some of the Southern States, where 
 little else than poor, tough beef is seen, this " tendering" 
 method is adopted, but at the expense of the natural sweet- 
 ness of the beef. 
 
 WILD ANIMALS, CALLED GAME. 
 
 The wild animals found in our States and Territories, 
 hunted by the white and red man, for food or for pleasure, 
 are accepted under the general title of " game." Profes- 
 sional sportsmen, and even zoologists, particularize the 
 
110 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 character of these animals. Some animals there are — the 
 squirrel, raccoon, opossum, etc. — which, although not strictly 
 game, yet are sought after with a zeal by the hunter, as if 
 they boasted of the high character ; while others — the fox, 
 the otter, etc. — are mostly hunted for the excitement arising 
 from this manly pursuit. 
 
 All animals, whether tame or wild, whose flesh is not 
 strong and tough, more especially when killed in season, 
 are, no doubt, fit for human food ; and those which feed 
 principally upon vegetation are to be preferred. There are, 
 however, but few of those which subsist wholly upon flesh 
 or fish that are much sought after for the table. Those 
 with which I am most familiar, both at table and from infor- 
 mation, as to their edible qualities, have been introduced in 
 the following pages. 
 
 The various wild animals which formerly inhabited 
 this and the adjoining States, in large numbers, have 
 gradually diminished and disappeared at the rapid im- 
 provement of agriculture. Before steamboats and railroads 
 came into existence, some species of game were scarce, or 
 only found in our markets during the winter season. They 
 were brought great distances ; and when any thing unusual 
 appeared, it was generally noticed in the press, as from 
 the following will appear, in the Commercial Advertiser, 
 February 1, 1823 : 
 
 " Wild Meats. — Our markets are not only well supplied 
 with every variety of domestic meat and fowls, but there is 
 a great variety of wild meats and wild game. Mr. Sykes 
 (who kept the New York Coffee-house) has a fine bear* 
 (weighing two hundred pounds), which he is soon to serve 
 up to his friends ; and we yesterday saw, at Fulton-market, 
 two wagons, from Sullivan County, N, Y., the one filled with 
 white hares and partridges, and the other with venison. On 
 the top of the bucks, which were stowed closely, stood a 
 fierce-looking panther, almost eight feet long, as if to guard 
 
 * The bear was purchased by Sykes from the owners of these wagons 
 when they arrived. 
 
CALLED GAME. Ill 
 
 the buck-tailed tribe. The panther was killed in Sullivan 
 County, about two weeks since." 
 
 Six years after, in the same paper (January 30, 1829), we 
 also find — " Good venison has been a scarce article in this 
 market during the last few weeks ; and that of an ordinary 
 quality was sold this morning at eighteen cents per pound. 
 A little after nine o'clock, however, a wagon drove up to 
 the Bank Poffee-house, with a noble load of deer, topped 
 off by. a panther of some eight or nine feet in length. They 
 were taken in the town of Liberty, in Sullivan County, upon 
 the Delaware." 
 
 Since that period, the employment of steam facilities 
 have been greatly increased, both on land and water, by 
 which the most distant uncultivated States and Territories 
 have been reached, which tended not only to increase the 
 variety of game, but also to enable the importation of large 
 numbers into our numerous towns and cities. No doubt, 
 in the course of future seasons, we shall have our markets 
 supplied with many of the most choice and rare species of 
 game found inhabiting the distant climates and regions, 
 and placed before our citizens as articles of food. At the 
 same time, the advance of agriculture will be the extermina- 
 tion of these animals from the face of our continent. 
 
 In New York State, a game-law was passed, on the 6th 
 of April, 1860, in which it is found that moose and deer are 
 protected from being killed during certain months, of which 
 the following is an extract : " No person or persons shall 
 kill, or pursue with intent to kill, any moose, wild deer, or 
 fawn, during the months of January, February, March, 
 April, May, June, and July ; or shall expose to sale, or 
 have in his or her possession, any green moose, deer, or 
 fawn skin, or fresh venison, at any time during the months 
 of February, after the 15th day thereof, March, April, May, 
 June, and July, under a fine of twenty-five dollars for each 
 deer so killed, and for each green moose, deer, or fawn 
 skin, or fresh venison, so exposed for sale or had in his 
 possession." 
 
112 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 Bison, commonly called buff&Jo. — The flesh of this 
 large animal is very seldom found in the markets of the 
 eastern cities ; but it does occasionally appear, however, in 
 the winter season, and sometimes in excellent condition. I 
 have several times heard of its being in New York, Chicago, 
 etc., and this year (1865), in the month of January, I was 
 enabled to purchase one hind-quarter (with the skin on) and 
 part of another, which was brought here by Mr. J. E. Cook, 
 of Council Grove, Kansas, who had some two or three thou- 
 sand pounds of nothing but hind- quarters of cow and heifer 
 bison meat. I cut, sold, and presented a large portion of 
 my purchase, so that it might be thoroughly tested as to its 
 qualifications for the table ; and I also tried different parts 
 of it roasted, broiled, etc. The general answer returned to 
 me was — it was excellent eating, being very tender, juicy, 
 and fine-flavored, with a slight " gamey" taste : while some 
 described it as being like the breast of the quail, others 
 something like long-killed, sweet, juicy venison. Perhaps, 
 however, this meat was eaten under the most favorable cir- 
 cumstances : in the first place, the animal was fat, having 
 been killed then about two months, and at the same time it 
 was kept in good condition, and thus it was made as perfect 
 for choice eating as it could well be. 
 
 In comparing the flesh or meat with that of beef, it ap- 
 pears somewhat darker, both flesh and fat, the latter much 
 redder — in fact, the whole appearance was like that of an 
 overheated animal, when killed in that state, and I found it 
 much more juicy than I expected. 
 
 As to the meat when fresh-killed, we must take the evi- 
 dence of the travellers and hunters, who generally consider 
 it very savory food ; and no doubt it is, especially when the 
 animal is a heifer or young cow ; or if, like our domestic cat- 
 tle, a young, fat bull is selected, in some months' of the 
 year the meat may be enjoyed by many, and more especially 
 by the hungry traveller. Mr. John G. Bell, the well-known 
 taxidermist, of our city, who travelled with "Audubon," in- 
 forms me that he had killed many buffaloes, and that the 
 
WILD ANIMALS, CALLED GAME. 113 
 
 meat which had been cut off from the cow buffalo, when fat, 
 he always found excellent eating. He compared the flesh 
 of one with that of beef from a domestic cow, and thought 
 the choice was in favor of the bison beef. He also says 
 they always selected these (cow and heifer) for their best 
 eating. In certain seasons, when very dry, and especially 
 in the spring of the year, the buffaloes are all found poor 
 and thin, and unfit to be eaten. 
 
 When the Indians hunt them for food, they look among 
 the herd for the extraordinary large animals, feeling sure 
 that they have been castrated when calves, which are often 
 taken in their hunting expeditions, the operation performed, 
 and then let go. 
 
 " Audubon," in a letter to Dr. Gideon B. Smith, of Balti- 
 more, in the spring of 1843, says : " Our folks have shot buffa- 
 loes, but I have not done so, simply because they were 
 worthless, through poverty, and when killed only display a 
 mass of bones and skin, with a very thin portion of flesh ; 
 and if you shoot a bull, the rankness of its better parts is 
 quite enough to revolt the stomachs of all but starving 
 men." 
 
 A common true saying is, that " Hunger is an excellent 
 sauce :" I would add that Starvation is a most terrible 
 one! Imagine the dreadful condition of the living, ema- 
 ciated, starving frames of Truxton, Maury, and others of the 
 Darien Exploring Expedition, when one of the party (Trux- 
 ton) saw a toad, which he instantly snatched up, bit off the 
 head, spat it away, and then devoured the quivering body ! 
 Another (Maury) picked up the rejected head and said to 
 the other (Truxton), "You are getting quite particular! 
 something of an epicure, eh ! to throw away the head !" He 
 then quietly swallowed it, although he said afterwards " it 
 was d — sh bitter." The idea that a human being could be 
 in such a necessitous condition as to eat and enjoy the body 
 of such a revolting, loathsome, and disgusting reptile is a 
 most dreadful one. 
 
 The hump of a fine fat buffalo is composed, nearly or all, 
 
 8 
 
114 THE MAKKET ASSISTANT, 
 
 of a sort of meat, — rather fat, somewhat like the udder of a 
 spayed heifer, with the addition of the peculiar wild or 
 gamey flavor, and is said to be very fine, but rather luscious 
 eating. The tongue will also partake of this flavor, and I 
 should think would be very acceptable, especially if it was 
 properly cured. Hunters say the liver is well-tasted, and 
 the brains are often eaten without undergoing the process 
 of cooking. The marrow-bones are also highly esteemed, 
 especially when roasted, and are often used as a substitute 
 for butter, as the marrow-bones of all animals are filled 
 with a short, buttery fat. 
 
 Venison. — The flesh of all the deer species is called 
 venison, although there is but one kind plentiful in our pub- 
 lic markets in its season. As commonly spoken of, it 
 means the flesh of the common deer, or Virginia deer. This 
 animal is not now found plenty in our State, although many 
 are killed, or, rather, a gradual extermination has been go- 
 ing on for several years past, and more especially in the 
 event of a severe winter and deep snows, when they are 
 slaughtered by hundreds, in an unfit state. Large numbers 
 are also brought from the Western States as well as the 
 Canadas. Prior to 1830, a great many were yearly killed — 
 as well as grouse, or prairie hen — on the Hempstead plains 
 and other parts of Long Island, which brought high prices 
 in our markets. 
 
 Buck venisoaa is best when killed from the 1st of 
 August to the 1st of November, but it is quite difficult to 
 have it fresh in our markets at this early date. After the 
 1st of November the doe venison is preferred, and it con- 
 tinues good until the 1st of January, after which these 
 animals should not be killed. Venison first begins to make 
 its appearance in small quantities in our markets in the lat- 
 ter part of September, and is sometimes found as late as the 
 1st of March, the next spring, having been kept for months 
 in a frozen state, for the purpose of obtaining the usual high 
 prices which prevail at this late period. It cannot be too 
 fat, and if it have no fat on the back it is of a very poor 
 
WILD ANIMALS, CALLED GAME. 115 
 
 quality, and will always eat dry and tasteless, without the 
 skill of the cook is considerably taxed. 
 
 " Thanks, my lord, for your venison, for finer or fatter, 
 Never ranged in a forest, or smoked on a platter ; 
 The haunch was a picture for painters to study, 
 The fat was so white and the lean was so ruddy." — Dr. Goldsmith. 
 
 Very large portions of venison is found in (hind) saddles 
 only, and principally with all the skin on, which keeps it in 
 good condition. It is cut and sold by the saddle, haunch, 
 leg, loin, fore- quarter, or in steaks : the latter, however, 
 should not be cut until ready for use. It is considered 
 highly nutritious and very wholesome food. The skins fur- 
 nish the buckskin of commerce. The Boston News Letter, 
 December 7, 1732, says : " A buck was lately killed in the 
 Narraganset country, which weighed sixty-nine pounds a 
 quarter, and is reckoned the largest deer that has been 
 killed in these parts for some years past." 
 
 The Bethany, Wayne County, Pennsylvania, Enquirer, 
 says : " The largest buck within the recollection of our 
 oldest hunters, was shot on the 10th inst. (November, 1831), 
 in Lebanon township. He has attracted the attention of 
 hunters in that neighborhood for about five years past, on 
 account of extraordinary size, and has been repeatedly shot 
 at, but has hitherto escaped shot-free. He was started on 
 the run-way, and was greeted with a fire from two of the 
 hunters ; but (to use the language of Big Hunter), Mr. 
 William J. Shields, of Philadelphia, did the job. The deer 
 weighed, before he was dressed, three hundred and sixty- 
 five pounds ! ! ! When dressed, his meat weighed two hun- 
 dred and ten pounds ; tallow (fat), ten pounds ; hide, twenty- 
 three pounds six ounces." 
 
 The Cornwall Freeholder, 1855 (Canada), relates the fol- 
 lowing hunting incident as an absolute fact. " As two 
 hunters were hunting on the banks of the river Nacion, near 
 Crysler's Mills, their dogs pressed close on a deer, which 
 took to the river, where the hunters pursued it in a canoe. 
 
116 THE MAKKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 On approaching the animal they were surprised to perceive 
 it struggling desperately, being every now and then jerked 
 under water. The hunters immediately approached, and 
 with the aid of others at hand, dragged the deer into the 
 canoe, when, to the astonishment of all present, a large 
 turtle (snapper, no doubt), weighing forty pounds, was found 
 firmly fastened to the tail of the deer, which would have 
 undoubtedly been shortly drowned by its amphibious assail- 
 ant. The turtle sustained its grip for upwards of two hours 
 after the deer was killed. This extraordinary circumstance 
 is attested to by several witnesses." 
 
 In the News from Charleston, December 21, 1815, "A 
 gentleman, resident of John's Island, hunting there a few 
 days since, discovered the bodies of three dead deer, who 
 had been engaged in fighting, and their horns were so en- 
 tangled that they cannot be disengaged without breaking 
 them." — Commercial Advertiser, Dec. 30, 1815. 
 
 The same paper, November 6, 1821, also notices a hunt 
 near Boston, as follows : 
 
 " Deer Hunting. — A party of gentlemen left Charlestown, 
 with fox-hounds, to hunt deer in the woods of Sandwich. 
 They arrived at Swift's, in Sandwich, and early next morning 
 started a fine buck, which, after a smart run of twelve to 
 fifteen miles, closely followed by the famous cry, and the 
 huntsmen at full speed, took to the water, was pursued by 
 boats and shot. Another buck was soon after uncovered, 
 and after a short but smart chase, was also killed. The 
 parties returned, bringing with them the carcasses of the 
 venison, which are in fine order, and are in Faneuil-hall 
 Market." 
 
 Elk or Wapiti.— Elk venison, both from the wild and 
 tame animal, are occasionally found in our city : two of the 
 former, which had been killed in Iowa, I saw near the 
 Washington Market, in Fulton-street, in 1856 (see Moose), 
 and several since. 
 
 Several tame specimens were exhibited at the Fair of the 
 American Institute Cattle Show, on Hamilton Square, in 
 
WILD ANIMALS, CALLED GAME. 117 
 
 1854 ; and on the 16th of June, 1858, a very fine female 
 was brought with a drove of cattle from Iowa, and sold at 
 the Bull's Head yards. About one week after it dropped a 
 young one, which soon after died. 
 
 We find the Cleveland Leader (1859), " announcing the 
 arrival in that city of Mr. George Eaymond, all the way 
 from Salt Lake City, via Cherry Creek Mines and Kansas, 
 having come the entire distance driving a span of elk before 
 a wagon. The elk in question are only three years old, an 
 age at which horses are not at all fit for use, yet Mr. Eay- 
 mond assures us that he actually travelled as far as one 
 hundred miles in a single day. He was on his way to Ver- 
 mont with his novel team. The elk have now upon them 
 horns three feet in length, which have been only 'six weeks 
 in growing." 
 
 The venison from a well-fed animal, in certain seasons, is 
 very good eating, but not so good as from the common 
 deer. But a buck elk, killed out of season, is very poor 
 and strong eating. The horns, in their soft state, are pre- 
 pared and eaten, and by some considered a delicacy. 
 
 The New York Gazette, June 6, 1763, says : Last Tuesday 
 two uncommon animals were seen in Milford, which being 
 pursued betook themselves to the water, and were followed 
 by a number of people in a small vessel, and were taken. 
 The he one was strangled in the water by a rope being 
 made too fast about his neck. The she one is now alive, is 
 big with young, and is about fourteen and a half hands 
 high. They are much the same color as a deer, and are 
 extremely nimble ; they have a neck about the length of a 
 common horse's, and short mane, and have little short 
 knobs of horns. The he one was about sixteen and a half 
 hands high ; and those that ate of his flesh say it tasted a 
 good deal like venison. 
 
 " They were thought to have been elks when they were 
 first taken, but they don't at all answer the description we 
 have had of those animals, which are said to be about the 
 size of a mule, and to have a large horn." 
 
118 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 Caribou, or American Reindeer.— This animal 
 appears to be yet found in Maine, and along the borders of 
 the St. Lawrence. Although the flesh of this animal has 
 been brought to our city, I have not yet been able to eat of 
 it. However, it is said, when the animal is in good condi- 
 tion, its flesh is excellent food, being very tender, and the 
 flavor superior to any other venison ; but when poor and 
 lean it is quite insipid eating, which " fills the stomach but 
 never satisfies the appetite." 
 
 Since writing the above I have eaten of the venison from 
 two different animals, and found both equal to the above 
 description. The sinews and ligaments, however, were very 
 tough and wiry, showing great strength and power of en- 
 durance possessed by the animal. It certainly was the best- 
 flavored venison I ever ate. 
 
 Black-tailed Deer, or Mule-deer. — Perhaps this 
 animal, or rather its flesh, should not be noticed by me, it 
 being so scarce and far away ; but considerable difference 
 of opinion appears among the naturalists about its quality. 
 I have thought proper to introduce what little knowledge 
 I have obtained in my inquiries in relation to it. From 
 one source it is said to be " insipid and inferior to that of 
 the common deer." Another says, " that it is far superior 
 to any of the deer species." Audubon, however, who has 
 killed many of them, describes it as being tender and 
 good flavored ; and Mr. Bell (his companion) says " that 
 he had often killed them and eaten their flesh, under ordin- 
 ary circumstances, and found it quite as good as that of the 
 common deer." 
 
 Jfloose. — The flesh of this scarce animal may be prop- 
 erly termed moose venison ; the appearance of all I have 
 ever seen was not so inviting as the common venison, it 
 being a coarse, dry, dark, and tough-looking meat, although 
 the Indians and some hunters say it is excellent food, and 
 they can stand more fatigue while eating it than when using 
 the flesh of any other. Others again say, that it is apt to 
 produce dysentery with persons unaccustomed to use it. 
 
CALLED GAME. 119 
 
 There is no doubt but the flesh of the tame male, either 
 moose or elk, when castrated, could be converted into a 
 dish which the epicure could not resist. The tongue is 
 considered a delicacy, as is also his moafle (the large gristly 
 extremity cf its large nose), when properly prepared and 
 cooked. The skins are much used by the hunters for snow- 
 shoes and moccasins : for these purposes they are best when 
 taken in the month of October. 
 
 Mr. Wm. Paul had, when I saw him on the 7th of Febru- 
 ary, 1856, in Fulton-street, ^New York, near the Washington 
 Market, nine moose and two elk, which he had brought 
 from Iowa. They were in good condition, although killed 
 some five weeks before. 
 
 Sibley, in his interesting history of the town of Union, 
 Maine, says of this animal : " Probably there is no part of 
 the United States in which moose were so numerous as in 
 Maine. It is said that as recently as 1849 more than four- 
 teen hundred were killed in one year by the Indians, chiefly 
 for the value of the skins." 
 
 The N. Y. Mercury, January 11, 1768, says : " We hear 
 from Deerfield, in the province of New Hampshire, that on 
 the 26th day of November last one Josiah Prescot, of that 
 town, being out a hunting about three miles from his house, 
 he spied a large moose at about a hundred yards' distance. 
 He immediately fired at her, and shot her down dead : upon 
 that there arose up two more at a small distance from the 
 first. He immediately charged his gun again and shot 
 down the second ; and while the other was smelling of his 
 mate, he charged again, and shot down the third ; and while 
 he was charging his gun again, a fourth came up towards 
 the others, and he shot her dead also. Two of them were 
 old ones, the other two young ones. One of the old ones 
 was ten feet high and ten feet long, the other eight feet 
 high and ten feet long ; the other two were about six 
 feet high and eight feet long. After this extraordinary ex- 
 ploit was over, he was joined by a partner, who, being 
 within hearing of the guns, came up to his assistance, and 
 
120 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 on going home, he got help to dress the moose : a wild-eat 
 they also killed on their return. This is a fact." 
 
 One other curious incident I wish to put on record before 
 I part with it. About the year 1840 a gentleman informed 
 me that while living near Syracuse, New York, a Mr. Na- 
 thaniel Dickinson, farmer, who lived between that place 
 and Lake Oneida, had a young heifer stray away and was 
 gone all winter, and when found the next spring she had a 
 half-moose calf by her side, about four weeks old. He did 
 not know whether it grew up or not, as he left the place. 
 At that period a great many moose were found there. 
 
 American antelope, or prong-born. — This scarce 
 animal is said to inhabit the great Western prairies in Up- 
 per Missouri, Oregon, etc. Lieut. Wilkes (U. S. Expl. 
 Expd.) says that the flavor of the meat was thought to be 
 superior to that of the common deer ; and Mr. Horace 
 Greeley, in his interesting letters while travelling to Pike's 
 Peak, etc., in one dated June 2, 1859, says : " The flesh is 
 tender and delicate -— the choicest eating I have found in 
 Kansas. Sly and fleet as he is, he is the chief sustenance, 
 at this season, of the Indians out of the present buffalo 
 ranges." 
 
 In the same year a remarkable shot was made by Dr. 
 Irwin of the United States Army, of Fort Buchanan, " who 
 killed two antelopes at a single shot with a Colt's carbine, 
 the distance being over three hundred yards. The ball 
 passed through the heart of one animal and the liver of 
 the other." 
 
 Big-horn, or mountain sheep.— The big-horn is 
 said, by travellers, to be much larger than the common 
 sheep. The male (full grown) often weighs two hundred to 
 three hundred pounds, and upwards. When fat, the flesh 
 is considered excellent when in season, resembling the finest 
 mutton, and even exceeding it in flavor. If so, there seems 
 no reason, except scarcity and distance, why this animal 
 could not be domesticated, as it is asserted that the scan- 
 tiest vegetation is sufficient to support it. The gray or 
 
WILD ANIMALS, CALLED GAME. 121 
 
 brown wool or hair maybe too coarse to be profitably used, 
 which appears the only drawback, except that it may not 
 bear confinement and artificial feeding in winter. 
 
 In the month of July, 1817, a skin of this animal, then 
 called " white wild sheep," was presented by John Jacob 
 Astor, Esq., to Dr. Samuel L. Mitchell, who exhibited it at 
 a meeting of the Lyceum of Natural History, and then de- 
 posited it in their cabinet. It was brought, among other 
 skins, from Missouri, by the way of Lake Superior. 
 
 Rocky Mountain goat.— As this animal's name de- 
 notes, the Eocky Mountains claim its principal habitation. 
 I read and believe what travellers assert, that its flesh is not 
 much valued, it being hard, dry, and unpleasant ; but there 
 is no doubt it could be domesticated and treated like our 
 common goats, when its flesh would no doubt be well fla- 
 vored, as well as having the advantage of very fine glossy 
 hair or fleece. 
 
 Northern liare. — This animal is found in greater 
 numbers in our markets now than ten years ago. They are 
 nearly one third larger than the common rabbit, the fur 
 much finer, nearly the same color, except in winter, when 
 they are found almost white. The flesh of an old hare is 
 tough, dry, and insipid ; but the leveret, or young one, when 
 in good condition, is very fair eating, not however so good 
 as the rabbit. They are generally in our markets in the 
 months of November, December, and January, but are 
 good until March. 
 
 This hare was originally introduced into Canada by sev- 
 eral English officers during the time of the French war, 
 and from there brought into the States, where they have 
 spread. Several gentlemen sportsmen, in 1827, collected 
 about fifty hares, transported them to Long Island, and 
 turned them loose near the Hempstead plains. I believe, 
 however, that they have been all exterminated many years 
 ago. 
 
 A curious incident relating to one of these animals is 
 found in the St. James Chronicle, January 12, 1764, as fol- 
 
122 THE MAKKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 lows : " A person of veracity from Lincolnshire (England) 
 says that a few days ago the water suddenly overflowed a 
 field where sheep were grazing, and the poor things being 
 up to their bellies in it, the owner went to get them out, 
 when lo ! upon the back of one of them he found a hare 
 sitting, which he laid hold of and brought home, and has it 
 now alive." 
 
 Rabbit, or gray hare.— The flesh of this plentiful 
 animal, when over one year old, is quite dark, dry, and 
 tough eating, without considerable aid from the cook. The 
 young, when nearly full grown and fat, are tender and 
 rather delicate eating. When old, their claws are long and 
 rough. They do not change their color like the hare, but 
 always remain gray. Generally found in our markets from 
 September to January, after which they should not be pur- 
 chased. In the best condition in November, they are 
 brought in large quantities from every quarter, and if they 
 were not so reproductive they would be soon exterminated, 
 as great numbers are shot by the pot hunters before they 
 are half grown : many are destroyed by animals, hawks, 
 owls, etc. In 1850, I went out one morning about daybreak 
 to shoot gray-squirrels. In getting over a fence I discov- 
 ered a large barred or hooting owl on the ground with a 
 full-grown rabbit, minus the head, which he had devoured. 
 The owl was so busy with his breakfast, and no doubt was 
 quite hungry, that he allowed me to get within ten yards of 
 him, when he started on the wing, carrying the rabbit in 
 his claws. I shot it down, but he clung to his prey until 
 nearly dead. 
 
 Domestic or fancy rabbits.— They are often found 
 in our markets (both alive and dead), sometimes ready 
 dressed, generally very fat and fine, and much superior to 
 the wild rabbit, being more juicy, tender, and better flavored. 
 Poulterers keep them alive, for sale, of various colors. The 
 young, for the table, are best from twelve weeks to twelve 
 months old. "In England, the rabbit formerly held the 
 rank of ' farm stock,' and thousands of acres were exclusive- 
 
WILD ANIMALS, CALLED GAME. 123 
 
 ly devoted to its production. Families were supported, and 
 rents, rates, and taxes were paid from its increase and sale. 
 The 'gray skins' went to tne natter, the ' silver skins' were 
 shipped to China,' and were dressed as furs, while the flesh 
 was a favorite dish at home." 
 
 Guinea pig" or cavy. — This restless little animal 
 looks much like a small pig with a fur skin : is a native of 
 South America, but has been domesticated here. They are 
 found in numbers in our markets, alive in cages, for sale. 
 Many keep them as pet animals, although their flesh is 
 eatable, but not much thought of by those who have eaten 
 of it. 
 
 Squirrels. — Among the varieties of squirrel found in 
 our markets are the fox, cat, gray, black, and red. I have 
 also seen the ground, or striped, and the flying squirrels 
 alive, but never dead, for sale ; they are all, however, edible, 
 and much better eating than the rabbit. The gray and black 
 are found sometimes in plenty along in the months of Sep- 
 tember, October, November, and December. The fox and 
 cat squirrels are somewhat larger than the gray, and occa- 
 sionally seen here, having been brought from the Western 
 States. I have shot the gray, black, and red (and might 
 have shot the striped) in the same wood, in one of my hunt- 
 ing excursions in Cayuga County, New York. At another I 
 found the gray and black travelling, or, rather, migrating, 
 which they sometimes do, when their food is scarce. It is 
 said they always travel to the east, often hundreds of miles, 
 and when necessary to cross a river or lake they enter the 
 water like dogs, if it is quite smooth. In the month of Sep- 
 tember, 1851, I 'arrived at Lake George where I found the 
 gray and black squirrels had been travelling for several days 
 and were still moving. Early one morning I discovered 
 three or four at several distances, swimming from the west- 
 ern to the eastern shore of the lake, which at that time was 
 as smooth as glass. I watched them as long as I could see 
 the ripples which they made, and supposed they succeeded 
 in crossing the lake, which at this point was more than a 
 
124 THE MAKKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 mile wide. They will not enter the water when there is a 
 ripple, as they swim very deep and of course drown easily ; 
 sometimes they are caught out in the rivers or lakes with a 
 sudden breeze, just enough to agitate the water, when it 
 drowns them, without they are lucky enough to catch a 
 floating piece of bark or wood to mount upon, and with their 
 tails curled up they are blown or wafted ashore. In this sit- 
 uation, I suppose, some writers have found them who assert 
 that "when it becomes necessary to pass a lake or river, 
 they lay hold of a piece of larch or fir, and mounting it, 
 abandon themselves to the waves ; they erect their tails to 
 catch the wind." All squirrels, when sitting, curl their tails 
 up against their backs. I found many of both black and 
 gray squirrels floating or lying along the shores of the lake 
 drowned. Persons frequently went after them in boats, and 
 on putting down the oar before them they would run up in- 
 to the boat almost exhausted, when they were secured alive. 
 I saw several that had been so taken at Lake George. 
 
 The gray squirrel is easily tamed, and soon becomes ac- 
 quainted with those who feed or treat him kindly. I had 
 one which ran around the house, out into the yard, and at 
 times would sit on my knee or shoulder to feed. 
 
 In Boston (and Philadelphia also) I have seen them in the 
 large parks, or public grounds, running up and down the 
 large trees and over the ground. I found they had nests in 
 small wooden houses which were fastened up into the trees, 
 and when some little school-children came along and called 
 them, the squirrels would come down and receive a nut or a 
 piece of cake from their hands. I am told they breed every 
 season in those parks. 
 
 Black bear. — The flesh of this animal is the only spe- 
 cies I ever knew to be brought to our markets for sale. 
 Bear, or b'ar-meat, is the common name used to designate 
 its flesh (when spoken of), and it is rather luscious but 
 savory eating ; that from a young bear, when nearly full- 
 grown and fat, is considered best. Generally found in our 
 large markets in the late fall or winter months, and some 
 
WILD ANIMALS, CALLED GAME. 125 
 
 years in great plenty. The dealers in its flesh cut it to suit 
 purchasers, for roasting, steaks, etc. 
 
 The taking of one of these animals in swimming across 
 the Hudson Bayer, about the period of the Eevolution, and 
 exposing its body for sale in an old market, then known as 
 Hudson-market, which stood on Greenwich-street, east (one 
 block) of the present Washington-market, changed its name 
 to that of the once well-known Bear-market. (See history 
 of the Bear-market, in " The Market-book," vol. i.) 
 
 The following will give some idea of their plentifulness in 
 our State, and especially along the Hudson Biver, at an 
 early period. The New York Gazette, October 8, 1759, has 
 recorded — " A gentleman, who came down in one of the last 
 sloops from Albany, says that he was ashore at several 
 places on each side of the North Biver, and that at every 
 place he landed there were great complaints made of the 
 damage done by bears. Some complain of the loss of their 
 sheep, hogs, and calves ; others, of their devouring their 
 fields of Indian-corn, and adding that they are more numer- 
 ous tLan has been known in the memory of man. And, par- 
 ticularly, he was at a tavern on the post-road, near Pough- 
 keepsie, when the landlord counted to him thirty-six, that 
 had been killed within three weeks of that time, in the com- 
 pass of four or five miles. Whilst this gentlemen and the 
 captain were ashore at this tavern, two bears came out of 
 the bushes where the captain and himself landed, and swam 
 across the river, passing very near the head of the sloop ; 
 but the battoe being ashore, it was not in the power of the 
 people of the sloop to pursue them." 
 
 The same paper, January 3d, 1763, notices a very large 
 hair, as follows : " Last week, a bair was shot in Connecti- 
 cut Biver, at Saybrook, which weighed seven score and 
 seven pounds. About forty men dined on it." 
 
 The Commercial Advertiser, November 10, 1824, thus 
 notices the taking of a white bear : " On Monday, the 18th 
 ult., a white bear was killed on the west branch of the Biver 
 Susquehanna, four miles below Youngwomanstown, by Mr. 
 
126 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 John Graham. The fur is thicker, and appears to be softer 
 than that of the black bear, and its ears much larger. It 
 was in company with a black bear at the time it was killed ; 
 and Mr. Graham is of opinion that, if he had had assistance, 
 he could have taken it alive. This is the first quadruped of 
 this species that has been seen or taken in this part of the 
 world by any of the oldest inhabitants." 
 
 In the same paper (December 1, 1838) will be found a 
 marvellous incident and escape, in a letter dated " Linneus, 
 Me., November, 19, 1838 — "About seven o'clock in the 
 evening, Mr. Isaac Saunders' son James, who is about eight 
 years of age, was sent to the barn to feed the cattle, and, 
 while returning therefrom to the house (the distance from 
 the barn to the house is about forty rods), had his attention 
 arrested by the appearance of a black object directly ahead 
 of him. He stood still a moment, not knowing whether to 
 advance or retreat. At length he concluded to go ahead, 
 when the bear rose up on his hind legs, and put himself in 
 an attitude to receive the youngster with his fore paws. 
 The boy, perceiving the attitude of the bear, and his ap- 
 parent determination to maintain his ground, gave a loud 
 screech, and turned and ran towards the barn. At this the 
 bear started in pursuit, and came up with the boy, who was 
 still screeching. Just as the men in the house, who had 
 heard the alarm, were approaching the theatre of action, 
 the bear seized the boy with his fore paws, raised himself 
 again upon his hind legs, and started with his prey, with all 
 possible dispatch, for the woods. The men hotly pursued 
 him for some three-quarters of a mile, when the bear, find- 
 ing himself but a few feet ahead of his pursuers, turned 
 around and stood face to face with them, when the men, 
 each of whom was armed with an axe, made a motion to 
 give him a gentle tap on the head ; but his left paw was 
 ready for a fend-off, while he held the boy tightly with his 
 right one. The men finding it was useless to fight with 
 axes, one of them started for the house for a gun, which he 
 loaded with buckshot, and returned to the woods. On his 
 
WILD ANIMALS, CALLED GAME. 127 
 
 arrival at the scene of battle, the bear, in attempting to turn 
 and try leg-bail again, was shot through the left side of the 
 body, which brought him to the ground, and caused him to 
 relinquish his hold of the boy, who scampered home, more 
 frightened than hurt, having received no other harm than a 
 most unconscionable hugging. The bear weighed, when 
 dressed, three hundred and sixty-two pounds, and is said to 
 be the largest ever caught in this town." 
 
 .Raccoon* — These animals are occasionally seen in our 
 markets for sale, both alive and dead — usually more plenti- 
 ful in the fall months. The full-grown or old raccoon will 
 weigh from seven to twelve pounds, the flesh of which is 
 quite rank and strong. The young are better ; but I think 
 them inferior eating, and must confess that I was not in a 
 situation to give them a fair trial when I ate of them. 
 
 I had the pleasure, or rather, as it turned out afterwards, 
 a punishment of several days' confinement to my room with 
 excessive hoarseness obtained from the enjoyment of a " rac- 
 coon-hunt," some twelve or fifteen years ago (1846), away 
 from the United States, in the dominions of New Jersey, 
 with a few friends. On a cool, clear, autumnal evening, we 
 took our departure, travelling some three or four hours be- 
 fore our hound-dogs started the game — a raccoon ; which, 
 however, proved to be double game — two raccoons leading 
 our party. We followed their trails for several miles, through 
 the drear wood and underbrush, until we brought up under 
 a large-sized tree, where the dogs gave tongue " right mer- 
 rily." The darkness of the woods, rendered more dense, if 
 possible, by night, prevented us seeing each other or any 
 thing bearing shape, save now and then a twinkling star 
 peeping through the vast roof of leaves. One of the party, 
 of keener vision, thought he perceived, pendent from a 
 bough, a peculiar-looking bunch, which his imagination left 
 him at a loss to speculate upon. I being the only one in 
 possession of a gun, I proposed taking a shot at it. This 
 being agreed to, I pointed as near as the darkness would 
 permit, and fired. The discharge caused the black bundle 
 
128 THE MAKKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 
 to change its position, which gave life to our party. Here 
 was something. I charged again — this time with buckshot 
 — and popped away at the black bunch. To our amaze- 
 ment, down tumbled a fine young raccoon. The dogs were 
 not satisfied to leave the tree yet. All raccoon-hunters have 
 what they term a "climber" — a boy or man that can quickly 
 mount to the top of a tree ; so one of our party enacted this 
 character for this time, and proceeded to ascend the tree. 
 His keen eye soon espied another gentlemanly raccoon, lying 
 well out on an extended limb. "With a few shakes, his 
 raccoonship either sprang or fell to the ground, when he in- 
 stantly fell a prey to the attentions of the dogs. This 
 species of hunting continued throughout the night, varied, 
 however, with the distant and dismal owl-hooting of cat or 
 barred owls, and the scent of several dog-worried skunks, 
 whose occasional proximity was any thing but agreeable. 
 This sport to the dogs, as well as to ourselves, was painfully 
 interrupted now and then by a scratch on the face or lacerated 
 eyes from limbs or bushes, or otherwise stumbling into the 
 depth of some mudhole, or swamp measured, or by becoming 
 a regular " stick in, the mud." Finally, before the morning 
 light, one of the hunters discovers a feeling within that a 
 little to eat and drink would be more than agreeable, situ- 
 ated as the party was, but finds to his horror that the noise 
 of the dogs added to the party a most hungry and thirsty 
 addition of hunters, which originally were not " counted in" 
 nor even thought of from the start, who had managed to 
 take particular great care of all the eatables, etc. — we will 
 not refer to the drinkables, which our man " Friday" had 
 the special care of, but who, on getting tired and sleepy, as 
 a person naturally will, who over-eats and over-drinks him- 
 self, when their legs get weary and their heads become so 
 heavy that they will insist, nay, almost swear, that in their 
 hats they carried a "brick." To wind up this hunter's ex- 
 perience is a violent cold, with hoarseness, — no doubt, from 
 the exposure of the throat in looking through the tree-tops 
 for mares or raccoons. The fruits of three days' hunting 
 
WILD ANIMALS, CALLED GAME. 129 
 
 were the carrying of two well-filled game-pockets, consisting 
 of a couple of raccoons, as many rabbits, several quails and 
 partridges, and a plump nine-pound double-gun ; hungry, 
 thirsty, tired, hoarse, and used-up generally, unable to speak 
 aloud for several days, with divers other disagreeables, the 
 result of my experience, and of my first and last " coon-hunt." 
 
 Wild-cat, or bay lynx. — This savage little animal, 
 as well as the Canada lynx, is occasionally hunted in this 
 and the neighboring States. The hunters are usually satis- 
 fied with their beautiful skins, except in case of short pro- 
 visions, when they partake of their flesh with much satis- 
 faction — it appearing much like white veal. Audubon says 
 of its flesh — " We have seen it cooked, when it appears 
 savory, and the persons who partook of it pronounced it 
 delicious." 
 
 Opossum. — This animal is occasionally found in the 
 markets for sale, in the fall and winter months. The full- 
 grown is about as large as a ten-pound pig (but its flesh is 
 not equal for the table), of a grayish-white face, and under 
 nearly white, and a long rat-looking tail, with a part of it, 
 next to the body, covered with hair. 
 
 They are considered by many country-people, and others, 
 who have partaken of their flesh (especially those that have 
 been feeding on the persimmons, and then, above all, well 
 dressed and well cooked), as being tender, luscious, and 
 well-flavored (one man told me it was better than any pig 
 ever roasted). These, and, in fact, all animals, should be 
 dressed as soon after having been killed as possible, and 
 never purchased in any other manner. The skin of this 
 animal is sometimes found on sale, but they are usually 
 scalded like a pig. 
 
 Wood-chuck, or ground-hog. — This small, stout, 
 brown-colored animal is only occasionally seen in our mar- 
 kets, although often killed within twenty miles of the city 
 of New York. In the fall months they are very fat, when 
 the flesh of the young is quite palatable, somewhat like a 
 pig, and is considered wholesome. The old ones are toler- 
 
 9 
 
130 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 ably good, but much better after having been frozen some 
 time. They usually weigh from eight to twelve pounds. A 
 fine fat young one, weighing six and a quarter pounds, 
 dressed like a roasting-pig (hair scalded off), and much 
 resembling that animal, was shown in Jefferson Market, 
 August 17, 1860; it was shot at Throg's Neck, West- 
 chester County, New York. In the Deerfield News, June 4, 
 1820 (Hampshire County, Mass.), is noticed — " Our famous 
 woodchuck-hunt terminated, on Wednesday, in favor of the 
 party under Mr. E. Nims, who destroyed one thousand one 
 hundred and fifty-four. Those under Mr. J. C. Hoyt de- 
 stroyed eight hundred and seventy-three — making a total 
 of two thousand and twenty-seven !" 
 
 Porcupine. — These slow but harmless animals are 
 found quite plentifully in the western parts of our State, 
 where they are often killed, and their bodies left to decay. 
 Their armor, or the great number of little defensive thorns 
 which cover and protect them from their foes when alive, 
 render them very troublesome to skin after death ; but I am 
 told their flesh, after having been nicely cleaned, is very 
 tender, luscious, and wholesome eating. The Indians esteem 
 its flesh. It weighs from ten to fifteen pounds. 
 
 Skwiik. — The flesh of this most detestable animal 
 is, I am told, when properly prepared, as good as rac- 
 coon. I have heard those who have eaten it say it was 
 very sweet and savory after it had been dressed. I never 
 saw it for sale in our markets, although I have heard of its 
 being dressed and sold under another name* 
 
 Professor Kalm says of this animal : " I have spoken with 
 both Englishmen and Frenchmen, who assured me they had 
 eaten of it, and found it very good meat, and not much un- 
 like the flesh of a pig. When the Indians kill them they al- 
 ways eat its flesh, but are very careful in dressing or skin- 
 ning it." 
 
 This animal's soft, black, or mottled skin or fur would 
 
 * The skins of the striped and black skunks are often on sale here, the 
 latter being the most valuable. 
 
WILD ANIMALS, CALLED GAME. 131 
 
 be quite as valuable as many other small animals' skins, 
 if it was not for their unpleasant smell. Usual weight, seven 
 to eight pounds. 
 
 Beaver. — This animal was once a native here, but civ- 
 ilization and the beaver's valued skin have almost extermin- 
 ated the family, although now and then a specimen is taken 
 in our State. It is said " the flesh of this animal is greatly 
 prized by hunters and voyageurs, especially when roasted 
 in the skin after the fur is singed off." This, of course, is 
 an expensive luxury, and is frowned upon by the fur- traders. 
 " Care must be taken, however, to examine the herbage on 
 which the animals feed, or mischief may follow an unwary 
 repast. Mr. Ross's party were once poisoned by feasting 
 heartily on beaver, and some of them had a very narrow 
 escape. The Indians eat this kind of beaver, but they roast 
 it ; boiled, they say, it is pernicious." 
 
 Professor Kalm, in his " Travels in America/' in 1748, 
 says : " Beaver flesh is eaten, not only by the Indians, but 
 likewise by the Europeans, and especially by the French on 
 their fasting days ; for his 'Holiness, in his system, has 
 ranged the beaver among the fish. The flesh* is reckoned 
 best if the beaver has lived upon vegetables. The tail is 
 likewise eaten, after it has been well boiled and roasted 
 afterwards." 
 
 Doctor Goodman also, in his " Natural History," says ; 
 "During the winter season the beaver becomes very fat, 
 and its flesh is esteemed by the hunters to be excellent food. 
 But those occasionally caught in the summer are very thin, 
 and unfit for the table." 
 
 Otter. — This now scarce animal is seldom seen in our 
 city, although it is brought here occasionally, but more for 
 the taxidermist than for the quality of its flesh for the table. 
 I am told, however, that the flesh is quite good eating, ex- 
 cept being of a fishy flavor. I saw a fine specimen in 1857, 
 taken in one of the streams in New Jersey, and I find in the 
 "New York Sun," May 17, 1856 : "An otter, weighing eigh- 
 teen pounds, and three feet six inches long, was caught in 
 
132 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 Paramus, Bergen County, N. J., on Thursday last, in a net, 
 drowned. The skin weighed two pounds." The skins are 
 occasionally found in our markets. 
 
 A remarkable shot is recorded in the " Commercial Ad- 
 vertiser," March 20, 1838, as follows : " There have been ex- 
 hibited in our town (Williamsport, Pa.) to-day, three large 
 otters, killed by Mr. Isaac Dodd, about two miles from this 
 place, on the canal, at a single shot, with a musket loaded 
 with small squirrel-shot, the largest (otter) of which weighed 
 twenty-five pounds and the smallest twenty pounds." 
 
 Badger* — These animals are sometimes taken, but more 
 for their skin than their flesh, although by some they are 
 considered good eating. They are little larger than a rac- 
 coon, with a thick fur coated with long hair of a reddish, 
 brindle color, except underneath, which is white. They are 
 very intelligent-looking in the face, with sharp teeth and 
 long claws. An occasional skin is found in our cities for sale. 
 
 Musk-rat or Musquash. — This animal is among the 
 many kinds that are seldom or never seen in our markets, 
 yet they are often killed for their fur skin, and their flesh 
 would be (more) eaten if it was thought eatable. The name 
 it bears would almost condemn its flesh from being used as 
 food ; but I know several persons who, having dressed and 
 eaten them, say its flesh is tender and very well flavored, 
 when young and in good condition. If its flesh can be hung 
 and frozen a few days it is considered still better. A large 
 number of their skins are brought to our (New York) city 
 and sold. 
 
 POULTRY. 
 
 TJndee this head we place all kinds of domesticated fowls, 
 tame pigeons, etc. These are received from Long Island, 
 and other parts of our State, Connecticut, Rhode Island, 
 Massachusetts, Vermont, New Jersey, and Pennsylvania. 
 Large numbers arrive here from the latter State, of the 
 choicest quality, all ready dressed, put up in various pack- 
 
POULTRY. 133 
 
 ages in the cold seasons. During the hot weather numbers 
 are sent here alive in " coops ;" but many of our large 
 dealers prepare boxes, in which poultry, carefully dressed, 
 are packed in ice, by which means they arrive here in good 
 condition. In the dressing, care should be taken in the 
 " picking" not to tear the skin, nor should the wings be cut 
 off, but picked to the end, and the necks tied up, so that the 
 bodies should not get bloody. Large numbers go through 
 the process of scalding, that the feathers may be taken off 
 more readily ; these are not so much liked as dry-picked 
 fowls. This mode of dressing appears to us an unnecessa- 
 rily cruel one : the fowl is usually stuck in the mouth up 
 through the upper jaw into the brain, and then, while slowly 
 bleeding and struggling, they are picked ; if laid until the 
 fowl is quiet and dead the feathers become set, and then, of 
 course, the skin is torn in plucking them off. 
 
 Poultry would be more delicate eating, better flavored, 
 and command higher prices if all the useless offal, such as 
 the head, feathers, and intestines, were removed, and the 
 blood washed out with cold water. This would remove the 
 injury often done to the flesh by the flavor of the excrements, 
 when having been killed some time. The caponed fowl may 
 be left with the head on, that the purchaser may judge 
 whether he be a capon or not, by the withered comb and 
 gills. The common fashion now to prepare poultry for our 
 markets is to stick them through the jugular vein, then 
 either to scald and pick them, or dry-pick them (as above), 
 often leaving attached the tail, neck, and wing feathers, with 
 the addition of the head, and sometimes a piece of bloody 
 rag around the neck ; all this useless waste is then to be 
 weighed, they being generally sold by the pound, thus add- 
 ing over half a pound to each fowl above its proper weight. 
 
 The food given to poultry produces great influence on the 
 character and flavor of the flesh. Fowls cooped up for a 
 few weeks before killing, and fed upon cereal grain, have a 
 delicate, tender, and sweet flesh; whilst, on the contrary, 
 those that are allowed to run, pick up rancid meats, fat, fish, 
 
 3 
 
134: THE MABKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 
 scraps, or other unfit substances, have a corresponding 
 taint or taste, and, at the same time, the flesh is less tender 
 and less fine-flavored. The conclusion is, the cleaner the 
 diet the more delicate the flavor. 
 
 To judge fresh poultry.— The eyes should be full 
 and bright, feet moist, soft, and limber. When stale, the 
 eyes will be dry and sunken, the feet and legs dry and stiff, 
 and if too stale, the body, or some parts of it, will be dark- 
 colored, and sometimes green. The " New York Tribune" 
 of December 16, 1853, speaks of a lot of chickens, of about 
 eight thousand pounds, which had arrived here in a dam- 
 aged state, and after remaining on the dock two days, was 
 bought up by a speculator for fifty dollars, or six-tenths of 
 a cent per pound, for the lot. The poultry, on being un- 
 packed, was found in a slimy, tainted condition, on the 
 verge of putrefaction. Before being exposed for sale it un- 
 derwent a process of being " manufactured over," a process 
 well known to the knowing ones. This is accomplished by 
 soaking the poultry in alum-water, which relieves it of the 
 slime and appearance of decay, and restores it to an appa- 
 rently fresh state. " In three days the entire lot was dis- 
 posed of, from the sale of which the speculator realized a 
 profit of over eight hundred dollars. Poultry that has un- 
 dergone this process turns black (when the skin has been 
 torn off) after having been exposed a short time to the air." 
 In several of our large public markets nearly all kinds of the 
 various species of poultry, of the choice, rare, and fancy 
 kinds, as well as many species of fancy, curious, and table 
 birds, both large and small, are often to be had alive. "With 
 these few remarks on poultry, I will proceed with the differ- 
 ent species. 
 
 Caponed fowls.-— There is no doubt that the caponed 
 fowls stand at the head of all the poultry kind, and they al- 
 ways command the highest market price. They are consid- 
 ered the greatest delicacies, preserving the tenderness of 
 the chicken with the fine juicy flavor of maturity. The 
 breed of fowls the most profitable for making capons ap- 
 
POULTRY. 135 
 
 pears to be the Bucks County fowl, although the Dorkings, 
 Cochin-Chin a, and other large breeds, are by some preferred. 
 The object, however, appears to be to get large, square, 
 heavy-bodied fowls (cockerells are generally used, as the 
 hen chickens are smaller and seldom used for that purpose) 
 that have a rapid growth. 
 
 One of the largest young capons I ever saw was sold by 
 Hedden & Sons, Jefferson Market, March 18, 1859, which 
 weighed twelve pounds, and when laid out measured above 
 three feet. I have seen heavier, but they were older. They 
 also had a pair of nine months old capons, on the 4th of 
 April, 1863, which weighed twenty-four pounds, and they 
 were not coarse-made, but plump, fat, and fine. 
 
 To judge Oie capon.— Generally the head is small (for 
 the size of the body, compared with the uncaponed fowl), 
 the comb is quite pale, short, and withered, the feathers on 
 the neck, if left on, are longer, and, if quite young, they will 
 have smooth legs, and short, thick, soft spurs. The body is 
 larger, fatter, more plump and round than the common fowl, 
 in proportion, and generally they have a fat vein on each 
 side of the breast, running into the hard, fat stomach and 
 rump, which is the most unprofitable portion of this fine 
 fowl. In some instances the performance of caponizing is 
 not complete, when the head and large comb will show 
 themselves more like the uncaponed fowl, which gives them 
 the appearance of having large bones and less flesh. In 
 this state they are called 
 
 Slips, or slip-capons — which are of course inferior 
 to the capon, but are generally dressed like them, and very 
 often sold for them by the dishonest dealer. 
 
 Chickens. — Many of the poulterers term all under a year 
 old " chickens ;" but long before that period arrives many 
 hen chickens commence laying, and then they are properly 
 called, by many persons, " pullets." The cockerell is also 
 considered fully matured when from five to eight months 
 old, and begins to enjoy all the rights and privileges of the 
 poultry-yard. It certainly cannot be expected that the flesh 
 
136 THE MAKKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 of these matured birds will be as delicate as the young, 
 growing chicken, which is daily making a new and tender 
 flesh. Therefore, to designate the young, growing chicken, 
 it will not be improper to place them under the head of 
 
 Spring-chicken or broilers. — This name is not an 
 uncommon one among some of our best dealers, who deal 
 largely in broilers varying from the size of a quail to two or 
 three pounds per pair. Although we have them of all sizes 
 in almost all the months of the year, yet the greatest portion 
 is hatched in February, March, and April, and brought to 
 our markets in the spring months. 
 
 In choosing, never select the coarse, long-legged, thin- 
 breasted chicken because they are the heaviest, but take the 
 plump, full-breasted, partridge-shaped, for juiciness, fine 
 grain, and well-flavored eating, besides having plenty of the 
 breast-meat and less bone. 
 
 To judge a chicken from a fowl. It is nearly the same as 
 judging a young turkey. The lower end of the breast-bone 
 is always soft, like the gristle in a person's ear. The spurs 
 of a young cockerel are soft, loose, and short. When old, 
 the comb and legs are rough, spurs hard and firmly fixed, 
 and both cock and hen have a hard breast-bone. There are 
 few species of the bird kind more tender than a young 
 chicken, and very few tougher than an old cock or hen. 
 
 Mr. Samuel Hazard, of Philadelphia, informs me that 
 while he was travelling in the Island of Malta, in the Med- 
 iterranean, it was the custom for small families to buy at the 
 markets parts of a chicken — the half or a quarter is sold, as 
 the purchasers wish. Another curious custom he also no- 
 ticed : there being no cows kept for milk, goats are used, 
 and the milk-women drive the goats to the customers' doors, 
 and there milk from them the quantity desired. Pity we 
 could not have our cows' milk obtained in some such man- 
 ner, or, rather, as pure. 
 
 Fowls. — This name is generally applied to both the cock 
 and hen of the common dunghill fowls, by our dealers gen- 
 erally, after having passed the age of one year When 
 
poultry. 137 
 
 seeking for the best fowls select those which are the young- 
 est, plump, fleshy, and fat, and that flesh nearly white. 
 When the flesh on the breast will mash under the pressure 
 of the thumb, it is best. Among the many breeds producing 
 the best fowls are the Dorkings, Polands, Black Spanish, 
 Dominiques, etc. The coarse, long-legged, big-boned breeds 
 (among which the Shanghais are the poorest), have very 
 small breasts according to their size and quantity of bone ; 
 their flesh is also coarse and not well flavored. 
 
 Live fowls of all the various kinds, breeds, and conditions, 
 are always to be found in our public markets, and large 
 numbers are sold to shipping vessels, steamers, etc. This 
 business has now become so large, that one firm (Messrs. 
 Tilton) in Franklin Market (N. Y.), keep many thousand 
 ready for that purpose, and some days their sales and re- 
 ceipts of live fowls have been enormous. One of the firm 
 told me, that in the month of April, 1862, they received one 
 lot, from Indiana, which numbered above 8,000 fowls 
 and chickens, w T hich came through on railroad and steam- 
 boats, in coops, and were daily fed and watered throughout 
 the passage. A large business from the Western States 
 has grown up since the rebellion commenced, which closed 
 the Mississippi River ; and hereafter, no doubt, we will re- 
 ceive their surplus stock. 
 
 A (fowl) curiosity is noticed in the New York Journal, 
 December,. 1797. " Captain Bradford, of this town (Boston), 
 last week purchased a fowl in the market, of about four 
 pounds weight, which on opening for the purpose of cook- 
 ing, was discovered to be entirely filled with liver, to the 
 exclusion of almost every other kind of entrails. The liver 
 commenced its growth in the common place ; but had in- 
 creased so enoimously as to occupy almost the whole interior 
 cavity, — a small intestinum passing by its side to convey 
 and void the food after digestion. The liver weighed up- 
 wards of a pound. Several gentlemen of the faculty, and 
 many respectable private citizens have viewed and been as- 
 tonished at this phenomenon." 
 
138 THE MABKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 In the month of January, 1858, I purchased a young 
 cockerel, in Jefferson Market, which appeared with a double 
 vent and a false rump. I opened it and found the vent con- 
 nected after its entrance into the body about half of an 
 inch. Both were perfect, and appeared to have been used 
 alike. Since that period I obtained another curious speci- 
 men — a chicken full grown, with three legs — the third leg 
 was fast in an immmovable socket, about one inch to the 
 rear of the socket of the left leg. The joints of this extra 
 leg were immovable, and without toes. A curious freak 
 of nature. 
 
 Bantam fowls. — These very small and generally 
 feather-legged fowls, are, I believe, seldom raised for the 
 table, but rather as a fancy fowl or curiosity. When found 
 " dressed" in our markets, their bodies are not much larger 
 than a partridge ; their flesh, however, is finely grained and 
 of a superior quality, if the young and fat are chosen. 
 
 Guinea-fowls, or pintada. — The flesh of the 
 Guinea-fowl is dark, like that of the grouse, and many con- 
 sider it more delicate and savory than the common fowl, 
 but not so juicy. They are generally found unpicked in 
 our markets, and by raising the feathers on the breast you 
 will easily perceive if they are fat and plump. A good 
 fowl will weigh from three and a half to five pounds. They 
 are considered best in the winter months, when they take 
 the place of partridges after they are out of season. When 
 alive they make a harsh, grating noise, very much like the 
 sharpening or filing of an old saw, and in a flock this noise 
 is almost continuous. 
 
 Turkeys. — These splendid birds are almost the year 
 through found in our markets, but the best season for them 
 is in the fall and winter months, when the young ones are 
 in perfection. To judge young turkeys from the old : — the 
 young has smooth, and most of them black legs (the young 
 "Tom" has, also, short, loose spurs), and a soft, gristly 
 breast-bone, at the thin end, where it joins the stomach. 
 Some have a very crooked breast-bone, caused from their 
 
POULTKY. 139 
 
 roosting on a narrow perch, which they at night rest upon, 
 but it does not injure their flesh, except to lessen the 
 quantity, on the one side or the other, when very crooked 
 or deformed. When the legs are rough, the spur of the 
 "cock" long and hard, and the breast-bone hard, covered 
 with a soft, tough-looking fat skin, these signs are generally 
 those of age. 
 
 The young hen, for a small family, is preferred, as they 
 are smaller, plump, and generally fatter. But for a large 
 family, a fine young " Tom," when well roasted, is a dish 
 that can hardly be surpassed. 
 
 The old turkey is best for boning, and generally preferred 
 for a plain boil. In March and April, the flesh of all 
 turkeys begins to get soft, dry, spongy, and not well flavored, 
 although I have eaten, and seen for sale, turkeys that were 
 killed, dressed, and drawn, in their proper season, kept 
 frozen for nearly five months. On the 10th of May, 1858, 
 I purchased one, and found the flesh tender, juicy, and firm, 
 but not quite so well flavored as a fresh-killed turkey in its 
 season. It has become a large and profitable business (in 
 Yermont especially) to prepare them in this manner. They 
 are sold in the spring months, and realize one hundred per 
 cent, more than the usual price in the fall months. 
 
 Occasionally, very large turkeys are exposed for sale in 
 our markets, one of which I saw, January 23, 1852, on the 
 stand of Messrs. Packer & Knapp, Washington Market, 
 which weighed, dressed, thirty-three pounds six ounces. 
 In 1859, Chester K. Crook, No. 55 Bowery, is said to have 
 had on exhibition a turkey which was reported to have 
 weighed forty-one pounds three ounces, for which he paid 
 forty dollars. On the last day of December, 1858, I saw a 
 young (spring) turkey, which weighed twenty-one and a 
 half pounds, on a stand in Jefferson Market. A still larger 
 one, hatched in the month of May, 1864, which came from 
 Charles Norton, Esq., near Bristol, Connecticut, who sent it 
 to his brother, H. G. Norton, Esq., for his Christmas dinner, 
 weighed twenty-five and a half pounds. He also informed 
 
 9 
 
140 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 me, that his brother, in the spring of 1863, sold a gobbler 
 turkey, about four years old, which weighed forty-two 
 pounds. 
 
 Ralph H. Avery, Esq., of "Wampsville, Madison County, 
 New York, writes me, on the 24th of June, 1858, and says : 
 " I have on hand now a turkey gobbler two years old, that 
 weighs thirty-two pounds, and is thin ; also a hen turkey 
 weighing twenty-one pounds. I sold a gobbler in February, 
 1856, that was two years and eight months old, that weighed 
 thirty-four pounds, for one dollar per pound. He was pur- 
 chased by J. M. Matthews, Esq., of the firm of Matthews, 
 Hunt & Co., of your city, and presented to President Bu- 
 chanan at his inauguration, and I learn he can now be seen 
 in the gardens of the Presidential mansion. He acts, I sup- 
 pose, as a member of the ' kitchen cabinet.' " 
 
 The largest turkey, perhaps, ever grown, was owned and 
 raised by Widow Lounesberry, Stamford, Connecticut, and 
 sold by her to the Union Club of that town for twenty-five 
 dollars, and by them sent to President Johnson as a present 
 for New Year's Day, 1866. This turkey was not quite two 
 years old, yet it weighed, alive, forty-seven pounds !" 
 
 Turkey poults, or half-grown turkeys, are seldom brought 
 to our markets; they are considered very delicate and 
 tender, but not much flavor, and rather insipid eating. 
 
 Capon Turkey. — The Capon turkey is occasionally found 
 in our markets. It is said they are more difficult to raise 
 than the Capon fowl, and more destructive to the young 
 poultry of all kinds in the yards. When found, they are 
 the most delicious eating of all the turkey kind, being more 
 tender, juicy, and fine-flavored. 
 
 Fea-£©wl§. — These beautiful birds are generally kept 
 for ornament, but when young its flesh is almost or quite 
 equal to the turkey. I had a fine young pea-hen, weighing 
 just six pounds, roasted, which my family thought quite as 
 good as turkey, and I must admit, the dark flesh was quite 
 ->,s good, if not superior, to any turkey I ever eat, being 
 -e tender and sweet. I therefore disagree with an o]d 
 
POULTEY. 141 
 
 adage, in relation to this bird, as not having a single re- 
 deeming quality, which says : " It has the plumage of an 
 angel, the voice of the devil, and the stomach of a thief." 
 " In ancient times," says Martin, " no great feast in the 
 baron's hall was served up without this bird to grace it ; 
 well cooked, served on a large dish, but rearranged in its 
 gorgeous plumage." 
 
 Taine pigeons. — These beautiful birds, when used 
 as food, are found to be dry eating, but well flavored ; if, 
 however, they are young, then cooped up and strongly fed 
 a few days, their flesh will be more delicate and tender. 
 They are only fit to fricassee, stew, or for a pie, etc. 
 
 Many varieties are found for sale alive in our large mar- 
 kets, of all kinds and colors, some of which are very beauti- 
 ful. They are known as " fancy pigeons," among which 
 are the carriers, pouters, or croppers, ruff-heads, tumblers, 
 topknots, duffers, fantails, baldpates, magpies, etc. Among 
 these the ruff-heads wear a frilled or fanciful cap on their 
 heads, and ruffles around their necks, which give them some 
 of the appearance of the ladies' ruffles of Queen Elizabeth's 
 time. These ruffles are raised feathers, which commence 
 behind the head, proceed down their neck, and join on the 
 breast. The colored ruffs with white heads are the most 
 beautiful. 
 
 The pouters have the power to distend the crop or breast 
 with wind, so that it is almost half as large as itself ; then 
 the tumbler, which turns over and over while on the wing ; 
 and the useful and curious carrier, which has a peculiar- 
 looking fleshy tubercle growing on the sides of the eyes and 
 bill. They are very strong and swift on the wing, quick- 
 sighted, and possess great attachment for the place of their 
 birth, which causes them, when carried away from their 
 home, even hundreds of miles, to find their way back when 
 let loose. In olden times, or until the telegraph had com- 
 menced its operations, they were much used to convey mes- 
 sages, news, etc. 
 
 Tame squabs, the young of tame pigeons, are usually 
 
112 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 found the year round in our markets. Their flesh is very 
 tender, delicate, and light food, and well adapted for the 
 sick. 
 
 .Domesticated swan.— There are several persons in 
 this country that have these beautiful and graceful birds 
 domesticated, and keep them more as an ornament than for 
 the table. In the waters of Central Park large numbers are 
 to be seen daily. 
 
 In England, swan-feasts are common in the months of 
 September and November, and often as late as Christmas. 
 
 The young, or cygnet, is considered a capital dish, very 
 highly esteemed, and never better than in the month of No- 
 vember. Yarrell says : " The town-clerk of Norwich sends 
 a note from the town-hall to the public swanherd, the cor- 
 poration, and others who have swans and swan-rights, on 
 the second Monday in August. They are collected in a 
 small stream or pond, the numbers varying from fifty to 
 seventy, and many of them belonging to private individuals. 
 They begin to feed immediately, being provided with as 
 much barley as they can eat, and are usually ready for kill- 
 ing early in November. They 'vary in weight, some reach- 
 ing to twenty-eight pounds. They are all cygnets. If kept 
 beyond November, they begin to fall off, losing both flesh 
 and fat, and the meat becomes darker in color and stronger 
 in flavor." 
 
 Ducks. — There are many breeds of ducks which are 
 very fine for the table, among which are the Muscovy, top- 
 knot, Cayuga black, etc. A cross between the common and 
 Muscovy produces a very large bird at an early age, and is 
 considered by many the choicest duck. 
 
 The young, or spring-duck, is always the best ; but some- 
 times to select is rather difficult for the uninitiated, as it re- 
 quires the experienced eye and hand to judge both the 
 young duck and goose. There are, however, some general 
 signs which are found correct. The joints in the legs will 
 break by their own weight ; the windpipe will also break 
 easily under the pressure of the fingers. The lower end of 
 
POULTBY. 
 
 the flat breast-bone should be soft, and, above all, the 
 should be plump and fat. 
 
 Creese. — Among the best breeds, of geese for the table 
 are the Bremen, Chinese, African, etc. Hybrids are also 
 highly prized for their superior size and flesh. 
 
 To choose the young goose, the same signs as the duck 
 will also apply. Usually the bill and feet are yellow (but 
 red if old). If the goose has been scalded when dressed, 
 the pressure of the thumb and fingers behind and under 
 the wing will break the ribs ; a pressure also on the wind- 
 pipe will snap or mash like a stiff straw, and a pin's head 
 will break through the skin easily. 
 
 The flesh of an old goose is very poor eating, and more 
 especially when thin and very old, they are one of the worst 
 in the family of poultry. I have known them to live above 
 thirty years, and read remarkable stories of their being 
 above one hundred years old ; but the following goose story, 
 or hoax, must convince all of this fact. Among the articles 
 exhibited at the New Jersey State Fair, 1859, was an anti- 
 quated goose, which attracted much attention. Its history 
 was posted on the coop which contained the venerable bird, 
 and read as follows : " Madame Goose is now owned by 
 Bobert Schomp, of Reading, Hunterdon County, N. J. She 
 has been in his possession twenty-five years, and was given 
 to him by his grandfather, Major H. G. Schomp. Robert's 
 father is now in his eighty-fifth year, and this goose was a 
 gift to his mother as a part of her marriage outfit. The 
 mate of Madame Goose was killed in the Revolutionary 
 War, being rode over by a troop of cavalry. She enjoys 
 general good health, is not so active as she once was, but 
 moves about among her descendants with dignity and con- 
 siderable activity. In the spring of 1857 she laid six eggs, 
 three of which were hatched, and the goslings raised. In 
 1858 she made seven nests and laid but two eggs, evidence 
 perhaps of failing faculties. Her eyes are becoming dim, 
 one having almost entirely failed. The year of her birth 
 cannot be known, but she remains a representative of the 
 
THE MAKKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 olden time,' and is worthy the respect which honorable age 
 should ever command." 
 
 When purchasing, if possible, select those geese which 
 are fresh and fat, the head and giblets cut off, and nicely 
 drawn, as it will make a saving of nearly two pounds in 
 their weight. They are always best in the fall and winter 
 months. 
 
 A novel mode of bringing live geese to market was per- 
 formed by " a Mr. Downing, formerly a sheep-broker, at 
 Browning's (Bull's Head, Sixth-street), who brought to 
 market four hundred and seventy-five geese and turkeys, 
 and four hundred and fifty chickens. They came in cars, 
 were driven like sheep twenty-five miles to Columbus, Ohio, 
 and there shipped by Erie Railroad, and sold here same as 
 cattle, by pound, live weight — the geese at nine cents per 
 pound, and turkeys at ten and a half cents. Eight hundred 
 and fifty more are expected on Friday." They, however, 
 did not give satisfaction for the table, as their flesh was 
 generally tough and dry eating. 
 
 The origin of eating goose on Michaelmas-day is thus 
 handed down to us : " Queen Elizabeth, on her way to Til- 
 bury Fort, on the 29th of September, 1598, dined at the 
 ancient seat of Sir Neville Umfreville, near that place ; and, 
 as British Bess had much rather dine off a high-seasoned 
 and substantial dish than a flimsy fricassee or a rascally 
 ragout, the knight thought proper to provide a brace of fine 
 geese to suit the palate of his royal guest. After the queen 
 had dined very heartily, she asked for a half-pint bumper 
 of burgundy, and drank destruction to the Spanish Armada. 
 She had but that moment returned the glass to the knight, 
 who had done the honors of the table, when the news came 
 (as if the queen had been possessed of the spirit of pro- 
 phecy) that the Spanish fleet had been destroyed by a 
 storm. She immediately took another bumper, in order to 
 digest the geese and good news, and was so much pleased 
 with the event, that she, every year after, on that day, had 
 the above excellent dish served up. The court made it a 
 
WILD-FOWL AND BIRDS, CALLED GAME. 145 
 
 custom, and the people have followed the fashion ever 
 since." — Commercial Advertiser, Dec. 5, 1806. 
 
 Crreen geese. — This name is applied to the gosling 
 that is about three parts grown — say from two to three 
 months old, when they have been generously fed and 
 allowed to run on fine pasture. Many are prepared for our 
 summer tables, and they are considered very fine eating. 
 
 In some parts of Europe they cram their geese to such 
 an extent, as, with the addition of heat, to cause their livers 
 to increase to one and two pounds weight, which are con- 
 sidered a great delicacy. They are sent here in packages, 
 and often found on the tables of our foreign ejDicures. 
 
 Giblets. — Thirty years ago it was quite common to find 
 tied up in bunches the necks and wings of geese, ducks, 
 turkeys, and fowls, for sale under the name of " giblets ;" 
 but the cook now adds the heads, gizzards, and livers of all 
 kinds of poultry or game-birds to the name. They are 
 used for stewing, fricassee, pot-pie, etc. 
 
 WILD-FOWL AND BIKDS, CALLED GAME. 
 
 The variety, quantity, and quality of wild-fowl and birds, 
 called game, and others not placed under this head, received 
 in the public markets, especially of the city of New York, 
 is not surpassed in any other city in the world. The 
 prairies of the West, the forest-regions of the North, the 
 gulfs and coasts of the Northern and Southern States, and 
 even European cities, all contribute to keep well sup- 
 lied the wants of our citizen epicures, in every month or 
 season of the year. No doubt new and rare varieties of 
 game will be added to our already numerous species, as 
 the facilities for transportation increase. 
 
 We avail ourselves of a passage from " Frank Forrester's 
 Field Sports," which says — " Within a few years, there is 
 but little doubt that the Western species (of all game) will 
 be exposed for sale in our markets ; and, should Whitney's 
 
146 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 Oregon Eailroad go into effect in our day, who knows but 
 we may live to shoot ' cocks of the plains' ourselves, and 
 bring them home the next day to dinner at Delmonico's," so 
 says the late Henry William Herbert. 
 
 In naming the numerous species of game and other birds, 
 I am anxious merely to show those which it is proper to 
 take, kill, or destroy, as well as those which directly or in- 
 directly affect our tables or are found in our public mar- 
 kets. In doing so, I do not wish to encourage the destruc- 
 tion of a single life that would be more useful to the 
 economy of nature than its dead body for the table. In 
 fact, I would go so far as to wish the passage of a United 
 States general law that would especially protect all birds 
 smaller than the quail, except a few shore-birds, or those 
 which are considered and known to be injurious. 
 
 Thousands of birds of the small species are wantonly 
 killed merely for the sport, or a few pence. These slaugh- 
 tered birds, when alive, destroy millions of insects, flies, 
 worms, slugs, etc., penetrating every nook and corner of 
 hedge, thicket, or field ; bush and tree, they clear limb after 
 limb, while every passing, folded, or withered leaf is care- 
 fully examined and deprived of its concealed but destruc- 
 tive tenant. Without these useful and beautiful little 
 " trespassers," the many destructive insects would increase 
 so rapidly as to become almost a plague, by destroying all 
 fruit and vegetation ; while the loss of a little fruit or seed 
 for their subsistence for a short period would amply repay 
 the cultivator for the great services they render him. 
 
 It has been particularly noticed that they do not often 
 touch the sound fruit when they can find those that have 
 worms in them. From this fact, they should not be driven 
 from the fruit-trees : they are friends and benefactors, not 
 only to the cultivator but to mankind at large, and to all 
 who have a sentiment for all that is beautiful, poetic, and 
 most musical of nature's productions. 
 
 Since writing the above, I find game-laws were passed on 
 the 6th of April, 1860, which at least protect some of the 
 
WILD-FOWL AND BIRDS, CALLED GAME. 147 
 
 useful birds, and others called game-birds, for certain 
 periods or months. It says, no person or persons shall kill 
 or expose for sale " any woodcock between the first day of 
 January and the fourth day of July, in each year ; or any 
 partridge or ruffed grouse, between the fifteenth- day of 
 January and the fifteenth day of October ; or any wood, 
 black, or teal duck, between the first day of February and 
 the first day of August, in each year, under the fine of two 
 dollars for each and every of said birds so killed or had in 
 possession. 
 
 " No person or persons shall kill any prairie-fowl or pin- 
 nated grouse, in the State of New York, within five years 
 from the passage of this act, under a fine of ten dollars for 
 each bird so killed. 
 
 "No person or persons shall, at any time, within this 
 State, catch any quail (sometimes called Virginia partridge) 
 or ruffed grouse, with any trap or snare, under a fine of two 
 dollars for each bird so caught." Nor " kill, cage, or trap 
 any nightingale, night-hawk, blue-bird, yellow-bird, Balti- 
 more oriole, finch, thrush, lark, sparrow, wren, martin, 
 swallow, or any bird of the species of woodpecker, or other 
 harmless bird ; nor shall any person or persons kill, cage, 
 or trap any bobolink or robin, between the first day of Feb- 
 ruary and the first day of October, in each year, under a 
 fine of fifty cents for each bird so killed, caged, or en- 
 trapped." 
 
 WILD-FOWL. 
 
 Wild swan or whistling swan. — This is a scarce 
 bird in our markets, although occasionally seen. The cyg- 
 nets (young) are very fine eating, but should not be above 
 a year or two old. They require five or six years to reach 
 maturity. The third year the bill becomes black. Very old 
 birds have a hard protuberance on the bend of the last joint 
 of the wing. Their season here ranges from November to 
 January. 
 
 The " Brooklyn Star," in the winter of 1846, notices that 
 
148 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 " a flock of white swans made their appearance in Hemp- 
 stead Bay, and one of them was shot, weighing seventeen 
 pounds." Mr. George T. Saramis, of the Seaside House, 
 Rockaway, Long Island, on the 25th of February, 1866, 
 found a pair of swans in Jamaica Bay and bagged them 
 both, — their wings measuring eight feet extended, and 
 weighing twenty-five pounds. 
 
 Trumpeter swan. — This species is not so scarce in 
 our markets as the whistling swan ; in fact, nearly all 
 brought here are of this species, generally shot in the Ches- 
 apeake. The young are pretty good eating, but the old are 
 very dry and tough. In season from November to January. 
 
 The most remarkable feature of this bird is, when dis- 
 sected, you will find a very lengthy windpipe encased in the 
 breast-bone, which, no doubt, is the cause of the loud trum- 
 peting sound it makes. 
 
 Wild goose, or Canada goose. This bird is plenty 
 here, in its season, and to designate them you will find the 
 head and greater part of the neck is black, cheek and throat 
 white. The young are very fine eating, and are considered 
 superior to the common goose. They are best in October, 
 November, and December : although there are not many 
 killed in the latter month, yet they are found in our markets 
 as late as January. 
 
 This goose is not an uncommon inhabitant of the poultry 
 yard, having been domesticated and even bred from. I 
 recollect, some forty years ago, Mr. McComb, at Kings- 
 bridge, had, for many years, a large flock around his house ; 
 but most of their time they spent in the Spuyten Duyvil 
 Creek. 
 
 When breeding with the common, the Chinese, or the 
 Bremen, this goose produces a hybrid, or mongrel, which 
 grows rapidly, and acquires a larger size than either of its 
 parents. Their flesh is also of a finer flavor, and commands 
 a higher price in our markets. 
 
 Snow-goose or white brant. — Occasionally the 
 young of this fine white bird is seen exposed for sale in our 
 
WILD-FOWL AND BIEDS, CALLED GAME. 149 
 
 markets, and it is said they are superior to the former (Can- 
 ada goose), both in juiciness and flavor. When found here 
 it is generally in the month of May, and again in November. 
 
 Ill ltd or II lit c hi fits' goose. — This species is not an 
 uncommon one in our markets. In size smaller than the 
 Canada goose, but appears much like that bird. It is said 
 that its flesh is strong and fishy. 
 
 Brant or brent goose. — The flesh of this bird is con- 
 sidered fine eating, although, at times, it is a little sedgy, 
 which, no doubt, is caused by its " feeding-grounds." The 
 adult has entirely black wings, while the young has them 
 tipped with grayish white. A good bird will weigh about 
 four pounds. Large numbers are found in our markets in 
 their season, which appears to be in April and May, when 
 some consider them best ; then again, it appears in October, 
 November, and December. 
 
 Canvas-back duck. — This, no doubt, is the finest 
 and choicest wild-duck known for the table, when in season, 
 which generally appears to be in the latter part of Novem- 
 ber and through December ; and then, provided they have 
 been killed in the Susquehanna, Chesapeake, Potomac, 
 and Delaware Rivers, feeding on what is commonly called 
 wild celery, they are very fat, fine, tender, and with that 
 delicious flavor so much admired. If taken at any other 
 season and place they are but little better than some of the 
 common sea-ducks. To judge a fine wild-duck, is in their 
 superior weight ; and by feeling behind their legs they will 
 be plump and full, and of course fat and always good. 
 
 Canvas-back duck received its name from the fact that a 
 portion of the back of the drake resembles a piece of canvas. 
 The bill of this duck is black, and higher at the base than 
 the red-heads, and nearly in a straight line with the head, 
 about three inches long. 
 
 They are found in our markets earlier and later than the 
 above months, but usually in smaller quantities. Large 
 numbers are sent by our swift steamers to Europe, where" 
 they command high prices. The question may be properly 
 
150 THE MAKKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 asked — "Where are all the wild ducks taken that are 
 brought and sold in our large cities ?" The wild-duck trade 
 is a large business, especially on our southern waters. The 
 " Norfolk Herald," of January 8, 1857, will give some idea 
 as answer to the above question : 
 
 "Edward Burroughs, Esq., a substantial farmer of Prin- 
 cess Anne, Long Island, Back Bay, from time imme- 
 morial famous as the resort of wild-ducks and geese, 
 has had twenty men employed constantly since the com- 
 mencement of the season ; and up to the 20th of December, 
 1856, they had consumed in their vocation twenty-three 
 kegs of gunpowder, with shot in proportion. The ducks 
 which they killed were brought to Norfolk once a week, and 
 piled up in the warehouse of Kemp & Buskey, on Boanoke 
 Square, where, on every Wednesday, they were packed in 
 barrels and shipped for New York by the steamship James- 
 town. The number of barrels thus sent off weekly have, up 
 to this time, averaged from fifteen to twenty-five barrels, 
 and one week the number reached as high as thirty-one. 
 They consist of all the varieties of the duck species known 
 in our latitude, such as canvas-back, red-heads, mallard, 
 black ducks, sprig-tails, bull-necks, bald- faces (or widgeons), 
 shovellers, etc., to which may be added a good proportion 
 of wild geese." 
 
 Prior to 1820 there were but few canvas-back ducks 
 brought to our public markets ; in fact, those that were 
 brought either to New York or Boston were shot by sports- 
 men from those cities, who made annual visits down to the 
 Chesapeake and Susquehanna, and brought these and 
 other game home ; when a few friends, or those celebrated 
 caterers, Niblo and Sykes, were sure to receive all that 
 could be spared, as they were generous in the prices paid 
 for them, which, no doubt, soon led to their more general 
 demand and introduction. The " Commercial Advertiser," 
 December 13, 1822, thus notices canvas-back ducks : " We 
 have had an unusual supply this season of this delicious 
 species of the wild-duck from Havre de Grace. At no for- 
 
WILD-FOWL AND BIRDS, CALLED GAME. 151 
 
 mer season do we recollect to have seen them so abundant, 
 and at the same time so fine. A single pair out of the lot 
 sent to Mr. Niblo the other day weighed twelve pounds. 
 We are informed that both he and Mr. Sykes have made 
 arrangements for receiving regular supplies of them from 
 the Susquehanna and Chesapeake, during the winter." 
 And for many years they received principally all the can- 
 vas-backs sent to this city for sale. 
 
 About fifty years ago this dainty bird was found to fre- 
 quent the Hudson River. This fact was noticed at that 
 period as follows : " The principal feeding-place is in the 
 neighborhood of Pollepel's Island and Fishkill Landing, 
 where they sometimes overspread acres of water. There 
 the valisiwria grows plentifully a little above the reach of 
 the salt water : and these diving ducks resort there to feed 
 on it in great numbers. When the ice prevents their ob- 
 taining their favorite food, they take their departure, and 
 return in the spring as soon as the river opens." 
 
 Until very lately, the gunners used to confound these 
 birds with broad-bills, red-heads, and other ducks, and sell 
 them all together. There was then no difference in the 
 price. Twenty-five cents would purchase a canvas-back as 
 readily as an ordinary duck. But now the distinction is 
 well understood by the fowlers. They bring them to mar- 
 ket, and offer them for sale as true and real canvas-back 
 ducks. The lovers of good eating buy them eagerly, and 
 the price of a pair of these rare birds has risen to two 
 and three dollars. Good preparations of the New York 
 male and female were made by Mr. De la Coste, and are 
 now in the collection of ornithology in Princeton College ; 
 and another pair from the Hudson, in fine preservation, is 
 in the possession of P. A. Schenck, Esq., the Surveyor of 
 the Port of New York. — Med. Rejpos., vol. x. 
 
 Red-head, or Pochard.— This is also an excellent 
 duck, and frequently sold for the canvas-back to those who 
 do not know the difference, as it is much like that bird. 
 The bill is of a bluish color, and towards the end it is 
 
152 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 black, and about two and a quarter inches long, a little 
 curved from the head. This duck commands a high price, 
 but not so high as the preceding. Their season commences 
 in November, and they are found sometimes very plenty all 
 the winter long, and then again in straggling numbers ; but 
 their flesh is best for the table in the two first months. 
 
 Mallard. — This beautiful and very fine duck is second 
 to none, except the canvas-back and red-head, for the table. 
 The color of the head and upper part of the neck is of a 
 deep green, with a white ring about the middle of the neck. 
 Its flesh is considered best in the autumn months, but the 
 bird is found scattering along through the winter months. 
 
 Black duck, or dusky duck.— This duck is very 
 fine eating when fat and taken from the fresh water ; but 
 when the lakes and ponds are covered with ice, they betake 
 themselves to the salt waters, when their flesh assumes a 
 fishy flavor, and becomes rather dry eating. Tliej- appear 
 in our markets in the months of September, October, No- 
 vember, and December. In the two latter months they are 
 frequently found in the best condition, and are highly es- 
 teemed. I have seen them scattering along until May. 
 
 Wood duck, or summer duck.— This most beau- 
 tiful species of the wild duck confines itself entirely to the 
 fresh water, where it is more or less shaded by trees and 
 bushes, although sometimes it will alight on trees (the only 
 species of duck that do so), generally on the limbs that are 
 quite bare or dead. Its principal food are insects, seeds, 
 and plants, which render its flesh excellent eating, without 
 the fishy flavor so objectionable to many. They are not so 
 large as the black duck. Many are taken alive in nets, 
 and pften sent to Europe to be kept either for breed or or- 
 nament. In season in the months of August, September, 
 October, and a few stragglers in November. 
 
 A beautiful male duck of this species was shown at the 
 Horticultural and Agricultural Fair held by the American 
 Institute in September, 1860. Some two or three were pur- 
 chased at Boston by Mr. Simpson, of Westchester County, 
 
WILD-FOWL AND BIRDS, CALLED GAME. 153 
 
 N. Y., who tamed them so as to eat out of hand, and 
 this one was exhibited at this Fair, where it attracted 
 much attention. 
 
 BaM-pate, or American widgeon. — This duck, 
 when taken feeding with the canvas-back, or rather steal- 
 ing from them their food (wild celery), are excellent. 
 "When the canvas-back rises from the bottom, they snatch 
 the delicious morsel, and then make off. Their flesh then is 
 considered of an excellent flavor, and much esteemed. 
 Found in season in the months of October, November, and 
 December, but best in the two latter. 
 
 Broad-bill, blue-bill, or scaup duck.— This 
 bird is common in our markets in their season, which com- 
 mences about the 1st of October, and continues until the 
 severe cold drives it further South. When fat, the flesh is 
 much esteemed. Another called, 
 
 Creek broad-bill, or lesser scaup duck, is 
 closely allied to the preceding, but inferior in size ; about 
 the same quality and season. And still another broad-bill, 
 called 
 
 Bastard broad-bill, ring-necked, or tufted 
 duck, is much like the broad-bill, except the slate-colored 
 markings on the wings. They are not at all plenty, but 
 found scattering in the spring and fall months. They are 
 considered good eating when found fat in the fall months. 
 
 Blue- winged teal. — This small duck, it is said, is the 
 first of its tribe that returns to us in the autumn from the 
 North. Their flesh is excellent, as they feed chiefly on 
 vegetable food, when they become very fat. They are here 
 in season in September, October, and November. 
 
 Green- winged teal. — This little duck, like the two 
 preceding, is a fresh-water duck, and feeds upon the same 
 kinds of food. If there is any difference in the eating 
 qualities of these two teal, I should give it in favor of this 
 little duck. It is quite common in our markets in Septem- 
 ber, October, November, and December, and scattering in 
 January. 
 
154 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 " A good shot" is noticed in the Philadelphia Gazette, Oc- 
 tober, 1822, which states that "Mr. Hart of the Lazaretto 
 Inn, opposite Tinicum Island, on Friday afternoon (4th 
 inst.), started sixteen teal, and, with one shot, killed fifteen 
 of the number — a circumstance which is, perhaps, unpre- 
 cedented in this species of sport. They all proved to be 
 very fine and fat." 
 
 Pintail dock, winter duck, sprig-tail duck* 
 — This duck is found more plentifully at the West than 
 here, although we have them some seasons in large num- 
 bers in the fall months, and scattering in the first winter 
 months. Its flesh is very savory and quite tender, i 
 
 Gray duck, Welsh drake, German duck, or 
 gad wall. — This is a beautiful and rather scarce duck here, 
 but, when found, its flesh will give the epicure perfect satis- 
 faction. The sportsman finds it a difficult bird to kill, on 
 account of its expertness in diving ; it is said, however, that 
 it has been successfully domesticated. 
 
 Shoveller, or spoonbill. — This handsome duck is 
 by many highly prized for the table, as its flesh is tender, 
 juicy, and delicate. The bill of this bird is peculiarly 
 shaped and very large, being about three inches in length, 
 of a black color, and much the widest towards the ex- 
 tremity, which gives it somewhat the appearance of a 
 shovel, and is, no doubt, the origin or cause of its name. 
 The whole bird is beautifully marked, and is in season in 
 April, and again in the fall months, but rather scarce. 
 
 Weaser, buff-breasted merganser, or goosan- 
 der. — Three of these beautiful ducks I had the pleasure of 
 seeing in the possession of Mr. Abraham Snediker, a dealer 
 in game-birds, Washington Market, on the 22d of January, 
 1856. He said they went by the name of " weasers." They 
 were very fat and heavy. Its flesh is best in the fall and 
 winter ; in the spring it becomes oily and rancid. 
 
 Harlequin duck.— This handsomely-marked duck is 
 rarely seen in our markets. It is known by some sports- 
 men as the " Lord" and " Brass-eyed Whistler." It is highly 
 
WILD-FOWL AND BIRDS, CALLED GAME. 155 
 
 spoken of for the table by those who have partaken of its 
 flesh. The only one I have ever seen was among the col- 
 lections of Mr. John G. Bell, the noted taxidermist, of New 
 York, to whom I am much indebted for information in rela- 
 tion to some birds and game animals. 
 
 Whistler, or golden-eye duck. — This duck is 
 called by many " Great-head," from its beautiful, rich, and 
 thickly-crested head. In the month of November its flesh 
 is considered fine, and of an agreeable flavor, as it then 
 generally feeds in fresh water. At other seasons its flesh is 
 strong and fishy. 
 
 Salt-water teal, or ruddy duck. — This appears to, 
 be a scarce duck here ; but they are sometimes found here 
 in the months of September and October, when it is fat and 
 its flesh very savory. 
 
 Dipper, butter-ball, or buffiel-headed duck.— 
 This duck is found very fat throughout the winter, when 
 their flesh is quite savory, but somewhat fishy, as its food 
 consists of small fish. In season from October to March. 
 
 Old wife, old squaw, long-tailed duck.— This 
 is a plentiful bird in our markets in the winter and spring 
 seasons. The general character of its flesh is tough, strong, 
 and fishy ; but the young bird, when fat and properly 
 cooked, is very fine eating. It is usually sold at low prices. 
 
 Squaw duck, shoal duck, or eider duck — 
 This is a scarce species here, as it belongs to a more north- 
 ern latitude ; but it is sometimes taken here in severe win- 
 ters. Its flesh is quite oily and fishy, but its down is of a' 
 superior quality, and valuable. 
 
 One of this species was shot in 1859, in the Miscomet 
 Pond, Manchester, N. H., upon whose tongue a large 
 muscle had fixed with a firm grasp. " The duck had prob- 
 ably seized upon the open muscle for a meal, and his 
 muscleship, not liking such treatment, had closed his shell 
 upon the tongue of the duck, and was thus torn from his 
 bed. The instinct of the duck had probably led him to 
 seek the fresh water, for the purpose of making him relax 
 
lob THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 his £ie boat going over some seaweed, and would soon get 
 clear again. It not doing so, however, he examined the 
 cause of the stoppage when the boat arrived at New York. 
 After taking off the injection valve and a portion of the 
 pipe, he found in it, tight up against the guard of the valve, 
 a large (loon) duck, weighing seven pounds, which had been 
 drawn into it by the force of the vacuum created by the 
 engine. Mr. Vanderbilt thinks that the duck must have 
 dived when the boat approached it, as, when it was found, 
 its head was downward, with its back towards the bow of 
 the vessel."* The duck was stuffed as a curiosity, and 
 afterwards presented to Barnum for his Museum, but was 
 burnt up, with many thousands of curiosities, many of which 
 can never be replaced. 
 
 BIRDS CALLED GAME, 
 
 And others, which 
 are found in our 
 markets. 
 Wild turkey. 
 
 This fine bird is oc- 
 casionally found in 
 our markets, in its 
 season — generally in 
 the months of No- 
 vember, December, 
 and January. They 
 are chiefly sent from 
 Pennsylvania, and 
 sometimes further 
 west, arriving here in a frozen state. The flesh of a fine 
 young wild turkey is darker, and considered more delicate, 
 
 * Commercial Advertiser, April 30, 1847. 
 Note.— For the above representation of the wild turkey, and three other 
 illustrations used in this work, I am much indebted to the editors of the 
 "American Agriculturist," whose volumes teem with useful and interesting 
 matter of all kinds. — Editor. 
 
 WILD TURKEY. 
 
WILD-FOWL AND BIRDS, CALLED GAME. 159 
 
 more succulent, and better, or more gamey tasted than that 
 of the tame turkey. They are in the best condition in the 
 month of November. "When found in our markets they 
 have all their feathers on. The bill is short and thick, head 
 small in proportion to the body ; half of the neck (especially 
 of the male bird) is covered with a naked, bluish skin, on 
 which are a number of red, wart-like lumps. On the lower 
 part of the neck, near the breast, is a fleshy substance, full 
 of long, black, coarse hair. The feathers are of a glossy 
 dark color, almost black, with bronze spots on the wings 
 and tail. Their usual weight is from nine to twenty pounds, 
 but I have read of their weighing above forty pounds. The 
 " Commercial Advertiser," September 9, 1801, notices — " A 
 remarkable large wild turkey, weighing twenty-two pounds 
 dressed, was shot, on the 1st inst., by G. L. Barret, within 
 a short distance of Mr. Scriba's seat, Newark, N. J." We 
 also find in Archdale's North Carolina, that in the year 
 1707, was purchased " a wild turkey of forty pounds, for 
 the value of two-pence, English value." 
 
 Partridge, pheasant, or ruffed grouse. — These 
 excellent birds are found in great plenty in our markets, 
 from about the 1st of September to the 1st of January ; but 
 they are best, especially the chicken partridge, in October 
 and November, although they are found earlier and later. 
 They are smuggled in by " poachers" and " pot-hunters," to 
 avoid the proper " game laws," who then sell them under 
 the name of owls, or some other fictitious name, to others, 
 who also regard no law where taste is consulted or money 
 to be made. These wholesome " game laws" were made 
 not only for the protection of birds, etc., but also for the 
 protection of our citizens, when such birds were out of sea- 
 son, and known to be unfit, unwholesome, and even poison- 
 ous. In very cold winters, and particularly heavy snow- 
 storms, the partridge should not be eaten, as they are then 
 deprived of their ordinary food, become thin, poor, and 
 starved, and are forced to feed upon the leaves of the poi- 
 sonous evergreens. They have been found with their crops 
 
160 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 filled with the green laurel, and in that state their flesh is 
 considered unfit to be eaten. There are many instances of 
 persons having been poisoned by eating them in these im- 
 proper seasons. . 
 
 It is said that we have no partridge or pheasant in this 
 country, that they are all grouse ; the reason they give is 
 that they are all feathered on the legs below the termina- 
 tion of the thigh, and some quite to the toe-nails. The par- 
 tridge, or ruffed grouse, is feathered below the knee ; and 
 the prairie hen, or pinnated grouse, as also the Canada 
 grouse, is feathered down to the ankles. The flesh of the 
 partridge is tender, fine flavored, and generally much es- 
 teemed. 
 
 Prairie-hen, heath-hen, prairie-chicken, or 
 pinnated grouse. — This fine game-bird is somewhat 
 the color, form, and size of the partridge, but more regularly 
 marked, or barred, on the breast. The tail feathers are 
 fan-like, but quite short and thick, and the neck has on 
 each side a feathery mane hanging down. Prior to 1830, 
 this bird was quite plentiful on Long Island, as well as deer, 
 but since that period the grouse have entirely disappeared, 
 and the few deer left are protected by law. 
 
 The " Suffolk Gazette," March 25, 1805, gives us some 
 facts in a few verses of poetry : 
 
 " Here on Smith's Point we take our stand, 
 When free from toil's gymnastics, 
 Where death and lead go hand in hand, 
 Among the fowl at Mastic. 
 
 " The grouse, the pheasant, and the quail, 
 In turn we take by changes, 
 Or hunt the buck with flippant tail, 
 As thro' the wood he ranges." 
 
 The " Gazette," of the 16th November, 1821, also says : 
 " A very fine pair of grouse, from Long Island, were offered 
 in our markets for five dollars." 
 
 A few years later, 1826, 1 have known these birds to bring 
 eight and ten dollars per pair ; and thirty-five years after— 
 
WILD-FOWL AND BIRDS, CALLED GAME. 161 
 
 1861 — I bought them as low as thirty-eight cents, and sev- 
 eral times at fifty cents per pair. About the year 1827, a 
 few pairs were occasionally brought from Pennsylvania, 
 which Niblo would generally purchase, and then announce 
 that he had secured a few pairs, when the epicures either 
 purchased from him or eat his " game dinners," which were 
 duly announced. 
 
 Within the last fifteen year's they have been brought from 
 the West — Illinois, Iowa, Wisconsin, etc. — in large numbers, 
 in fact, so large as to create a glut in the winter and early 
 spring months. They begin to arrive in October, and con- 
 tinue until the month of April ; usually brought in barrels 
 and other packages in a frozen state. Their flesh is quite 
 dark, but from a young fat bird it is excellent eating ; and 
 when purchasing select the heaviest as the best, at the same 
 time try the feathers around the vent ; if they pull easily 
 they are apt to be too stale ; the nose must also be brought 
 into use to detect the least unpleasant smell. 
 
 Sharp-tailed grouse. — This fine bird is sometimes 
 found with the prairie hen, in the quantities sent here. The 
 color is nearly the same, but the markings are not so regu- 
 lar on the breast, being scolloped-like ; the tail feathers are 
 shorter, except two or more in the centre, which are slim 
 and about one inch longer ; and all except these are tipped 
 with white. The feathers on the legs are also shorter. 
 They are also excellent eating. 
 
 Spruce partridge or Canada grouse. — This is a 
 rare bird and seldom or never found in our markets ; but 
 they are, nevertheless, sent or brought to our city in small 
 numbers from Maine, Massachusetts, the Canadas, etc. The 
 back feathers are of a very dark gray color, with a fan-tail, 
 tipped with light brown, and the breast has several black 
 and white feathers mottled together. The flesh is dark, and 
 only fit to be eaten when it feeds on berries. In winter it 
 feeds on leaves and plants, when the flesh becomes bitter, 
 and has sometimes a strong, disagreeable taste, as if cooked 
 in turpentine. 
 
 11 
 
162 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 Willow grouse, or white grouse. — At first sight 
 this very rare bird appears like a white pigeon, with its 
 winter plumage on. In summer it changes to quite a 
 brownish red, and mottled in the spring and fall months, 
 but always with a few dark or black feathers on the sides 
 of the tail. About the size of the partridge, but not so fine 
 eating. 
 
 Cock of the plains, or sage cock. — This is an- 
 other rare bird, and a great deal larger than the preceding 
 birds ; it is said that the average weight of a full-grown 
 bird is above ten pounds. Travellers give it the name of 
 sage cock in consequence of the taste of its flesh, from the 
 fact that it feeds principally upon a species of wormwood 
 or artemisia, which grows plentifully on the great Western 
 plains. It is a beautiful large-breasted gray bird, especially 
 the cock, when in full plumage. 
 
 California quail. — We occasionally meet with this 
 pretty and somewhat smaller-bodied bird than our common 
 quail, but quite as good eating. It is covered with a dark 
 blue, and gray or steel-looking feathers, with white-tipped 
 feathers interspersed on the lower part of the breast. The 
 male and female have black plumes on their heads; the 
 male's plume bends gracefully over towards its bill : it has 
 also a line of white feathers, which look like a wreath 
 hanging around its neck, commencing from the back of the 
 eye and running down on the breast about one and a half 
 inches. While on the subject of scarce game, it would be 
 well to introduce here several species of English game 
 which are sometimes found here. 
 
 English pheasant. — These beautiful long, and sharp- 
 tailed birds I have often seen for sale in the markets, and 
 they are also occasionally sent to friends here from the 
 other side. I saw a very fine pair of fresh-killed birds — 
 both cocks — on sale, in Jefferson Market, which were raised 
 on an island near Newport, Rhode Island, by Robert L. 
 Maitland, Esq., of New York. He succeeded in raising the 
 first birds from eggs, which were carefully brought from 
 
WILD-FOWL AND BIRDS, CALLED GAME. 163 
 
 England, and from these he has produced several broods. 
 The price asked for this pair was ten dollars; and they 
 weighed four and three-quarter pounds. The body of these 
 beautiful birds are larger and longer than our partridge, 
 and the flesh from a fine young one is considered its equal, 
 although I must say, the conclusion from my experience 
 was different. We eat them here under disadvantages : 
 generally birds of the finest plumage, and of course " old 
 birds," are sent to us, or they have been too long killed, and 
 this cause may apply to all the English game. Best in 
 September and October. 
 
 English partridge. — This bird somewhat resembles 
 our quail, but about half as large again ; and is considered 
 for the table next only to the preceding. 
 
 Black cock, or black grouse. — This black game- 
 bird of England is almost as large as our partridge, and its 
 flesh stands next in quality to the English partridge. 
 
 Red grouse, or moor cock. — This bird is smaller 
 and not so highly esteemed as the preceding, and is not 
 found here so plenty, but in the " old country" it has many 
 friends. 
 
 English woodcock. — This bird is much like our 
 woodcock, but much larger, and seldom found here. 
 
 The above are all the " English game" brought here, ex- 
 cept hares and rabbits, which are larger and somewhat 
 inferior eating than these species of America. 
 
 Quail. — These fine game-birds (known at the South as 
 partridge) are generally found in great plenty in our markets, 
 in their season, except in cases where the preceding winters 
 have been unusually stormy, cold, and the ground lay 
 covered with snow a long time, by which many quail perish 
 under snow-banks, or from starvation. Many in this frozen 
 state are picked up and sent to our markets for sale. This, 
 however, generally occurs late in such seasons, or when the 
 game laws are against their use. The years following these 
 severe seasons will sometimes show great scarcity, and very 
 high prices are charged for these fine birds. 
 
164 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 Many thousands are brought from the far West in a frozen 
 state. As soon as the frosty weather sets in, the great 
 slaughter of Western game takes place, and hundreds of 
 boxes of quail and other game are sent from Wisconsin, 
 Illinois, Iowa, etc., for the eastern cities, where they arrive 
 generally in good condition ; however, those which are 
 killed near by are to be preferred. 
 
 The flesh of the quail is white, tender, and delicate. One 
 of the best-flavored game birds. Their size is about one- 
 third of the partridge or ruffed grouse. 
 
 "Woodcock. — This highly prized bird is in season from 
 the first of July to the first of November, and brings the 
 highest price of any bird brought to our markets. Its flesh 
 is no doubt the most delicate eating of all the birds known, 
 and generally found best in the month of October. The 
 head of the woodcock is large, and somewhat triangular, 
 with the eye fixed high in the head, a great distance from 
 its long bill, the body about the size of the quail, and a fine 
 bird will weigh half a pound. 
 
 The largest woodcock found on record, was shot by 
 Eichard Tetley, in Washington township, New Jersey, in 
 1859. It measured in length from tail to beak, twelve and 
 a quarter inches ; width around the breast ten and a half 
 inches ; over the back three inches ; height seven and three 
 quarter inches ; weight, one pound one ounce. 
 
 English snipe, common snipe, or Wilson's 
 snipe. — These birds, though small, are excellent eating 
 when in condition. The richness and delicacy of their 
 flesh is considered second only to that of the woodcock. 
 Their bills are about twice as long as their head, neck short, 
 legs slender, feet bluish gray, feathers brownish black on 
 the back, below grayish yellow, and a much smaller bird 
 than the woodcock. They are found in our markets from 
 about the 20th of March to the 20th of April ; then again, 
 in (small numbers), in October. 
 
 Mr. J. T. Brownwere while hunting for snipe in a swamp, 
 about three-quarters of a mile from Bushwick Ferry, L. I., 
 
WILD-FOWL AND BH1DS, CALLED GAME. 165 
 
 in the month of September, 1815, met with a Southern 
 stranger, in the shape of an alligator. The press says : 
 " While in the act of levelling his piece at a flock of snipes, 
 he discovered the alligator within a few yards of the spot 
 where he stood, making towards him, when he instantly 
 lodged the contents of the piece in its throat and killed it." 
 
 Robin snipe, or red-breasted sandpiper.— This 
 red-breasted snipe is well known, and its flesh highly prized 
 by many of our epicures as a great delicacy. Their season 
 commences in April and May, and again in August, Sep- 
 tember, and October. The latter month they are considered 
 best, and are then often known as white-robin snipe, in con- 
 sequence of the light change of their feathers. 
 
 Crray plover, grass, field, or upland plover.— 
 The proper name of this much-esteemed game-bird appears 
 to be Bartram's sandpiper. They are generally found in 
 our markets in June, July, August, and September. It is 
 considered best and most highly prized in the two latter 
 months. 
 
 Frost plover, greenback or golden plover — 
 This delicious bird is known among many sportsmen and 
 others as plover and frost-bird. They sometimes appear in 
 numbers in the months of April and May, and then again 
 in September and October, when they are in fine condition, 
 their flesh well flavored, and sell quickly at high prices. 
 
 Ring plover, or ring-neck. — This small bird ap- 
 pears quite numerous some seasons in our markets. Many 
 are killed in the fall months, especially in September and 
 October, when they are considered best for the table. 
 
 Beach bird, or piping plover. — This bird is found 
 scattering in season from April to October. Tn the months 
 of September and October it gets very fat, when its flesh is 
 excellent. 
 
 Brant bird, norse-fbot snipe, or turns tone. — 
 This fine bird is much sought after by gunners, and is often 
 found in large numbers for sale. It makes its appearance 
 early in the months of April and May, and again in Sep- 
 
166 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 tember and October, when it is in fair condition and much 
 esteemed. 
 Dowitcher, quail snipe, or red-breasted snipe. 
 
 —This bird appears in our markets in large numbers when 
 in their season. They begin to show themselves in April 
 and May, and then again from the 15th to the 20th of July, 
 and so continue until the end of October. It appears in the 
 best condition in September and October, but its flesh is not 
 considered a delicacy, although well flavored. 
 
 Bull-headed or beetle-headed plover, Mack- 
 bellied or whistling- plover.— This bird is generally 
 quite plenty in our markets early in May, and then again in 
 August and September. In the two latter months it is in 
 a very fat condition, and its flesh quite well flavored. 
 
 Kildeer plover. — This bird is generally known as kil- 
 deer. It is sometimes found in our markets in the months 
 of July, August, and September, and when in good condi- 
 tion its flesh is considered good eating. 
 
 Sanderling, or ruddy plover.— This small bird 
 may be had in May, and then again in August, September, 
 October, and November. It is generally fat and fine in the 
 fall months, when it is much esteemed. 
 
 Marlin s or great marbled godwit. — This large 
 bird also enjoys the name of red curlew by some gunners. 
 The flesh is quite tender and juicy, when in good condition. 
 In season in May, and again from August to November. 
 
 Ring-tailed marlin, or EEudsonian godwit.— 
 This bird is not so plentiful as the preceding, but about the 
 same quality for the table. The season the same. 
 
 Black-breasted snipe, winter snipe, or red- 
 backed sandpiper. — This small bird is sometimes 
 found in great plenty. It first appears in our markets in 
 April and May, and then again in September and October, 
 when some give it the name of winter snipe, dunlin, ox-bird, 
 and purries. It is then usually very fat, and excellent 
 eating. 
 
 BufPhreasted sandpiper. — This bird is rather 
 
WILD-FOWL AND BIRDS, CALLED GAME. 167 
 
 scarce, although a few are sometimes found tied up with 
 the meadow snipe, for sale. Found in August and Septem- 
 ber, but more plenty, very fat and excellent, in October and 
 November. 
 
 ILong legged sandpiper. — This long-legged bird is 
 not at all common in our markets, although some seasons 
 several little " bunches" appear in the months of July, Au- 
 gust, and September. 
 
 ftleadow snipe, or pectoral sandpiper. — This 
 excellent bird is known by several different names in various 
 places. Giraud says it is termed by bay-men short-neck ; 
 on the coast of New Jersey, fat-bird ; and in Pennsylvania 
 jack-snipe. A few are found in our markets in the month 
 of May, but more plenty in August and September, and in 
 a very fat condition in the months of October and Novem- 
 ber, when it is much sought after. 
 
 Yellow-legged snipe, or yellow-shank tattler. 
 — This is a common snipe, and well known to our sports- 
 men. Some seasons they are quite plenty in April and 
 May, and then again in August and September. I have 
 shot them near Kingsbridge above thirty years ago, where 
 they were occasionally found in large numbers. They are 
 best in the fall months, but are not much esteemed for the 
 table. 
 
 Greater yellow-legged snipe, or tell-tale tat- 
 tler. — These birds are not so numerous as the preceding, 
 but found generally earlier in the spring and later in the 
 fall months. Their flesh is well flavored, and more es- 
 teemed in October and November. 
 
 Willet, or semi-palmated tattler. — This bird ap- 
 pears early in the month of May, when it is considered a 
 very fair bird for the table, but a more pleasing game-bird 
 to the sportsman in the month of October. Many of this 
 and other species are brought from the South in the oyster 
 and other sailing vessels. 
 
 Bluestocking, or American avocet.— This blue- 
 legged bird is also known on the Southern coast as the hiu- 
 
168 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 yer, from whence it is occasionally brought by the coasting 
 vessels. A few also are found here, brought from Long 
 Island. They are not much esteemed for the table. In 
 season early in May, and then again in October and No- 
 vember. 
 
 ^Lawyer, or black-necked stilt. — Although this is 
 a scarce bird here, yet they are, as the preceding, brought 
 here in the oyster and fishing vessels, and, like all other 
 rare or scarce species, are quickly bought up, if at all in a 
 good condition, for the taxidermist or others. The season 
 same as preceding. 
 
 Long-billed curlew, or sickle-billed curlew.— 
 This long arch-billed bird is often found in our markets 
 in the. spring and autumn months. But, like the short- 
 billed, or jack curlew, their flesh is considered indifferent 
 eating. In the fall months they are quite fat, but are not 
 even then very well flavored. 
 
 In 1838 Daniel Fordham, of Southampton, Long Island, 
 killed a curlew, which measured from the tip of the bill to 
 the tip of the tail two feet three inches ; from the tip of its 
 wings, three feet five inches ; length of the bill eight inches, 
 and weighed one pound fourteen ounces. 
 
 Futes, or Esquimaux curlew. — This bird in the 
 Eastern States is called the doe-bird. The flesh when 
 in a lat condition is well flavored, and the best of all the 
 curlews. 
 
 Flood gull, or oyster catcher.— This bird, although 
 scarce, finds its way to our markets in the summer months. 
 One of our oldest dealers (Snedicor) calls this bird flat-foot 
 snipe, and also says that its flesh has not many admirers. 
 Many agree with him on this point. Its flesh is dark- 
 colored, and quite strong and unpalatable. 
 
 Seaside finch, or gray shore-finch. — "Giraud" 
 says : " This species is familiar to all our sportsmen who 
 practise bay-shooting." It is sometimes found in our 
 markets in the summer months, but its flesh is quite indif- 
 ferent eating, being somewhat fishy. 
 
WILD-FOWL AND BIEDS, CALLED GAME. 169 
 
 Shore lark, or horned lark.— This bird is also 
 known by some as the sky-lark. " Wilson" says : " They 
 are frequently brought to Philadelphia markets. They are 
 generally very fat, and are considered excellent eating." In 
 season, though scattering, nearly all the winter months, in 
 some of our markets. 
 
 Brown lark. — This species of the lark is not quite so 
 plenty here as the preceding. Generally found here in the 
 months of March, April, and May, when their flesh is said 
 to be equal to the shore lark. 
 
 Semi-pal mated sandpiper. — These small birds 
 generally appear in small quantities in our markets in the 
 months of April and May, and then again quite plenty in 
 September and October, when it is in fine condition and 
 delicate eating. 
 
 Ox-eyes, little, or Wilson's sandpiper. — This is 
 a still smaller bird than the preceding, but more plentiful, 
 and much better in flavor and juiciness. They are also best 
 in the months of September and October. 
 
 Schinz's sandpiper. — This bird, like many others, is 
 no doubt scarce, but is occasionally found with others of its 
 species in our markets along in the summer and autumn 
 months. 
 
 Wood tattler, green-rump tattler, or solitary 
 tattler. — This pretty, trim bird is sometimes found, but 
 generally in small quantities, in our market. It is said to 
 be delicate eating. In season in May, and again in August 
 and September. 
 
 Teeter-tail, tilt-np, or spotted sandpiper.— 
 These little birds are seldom brought to our markets in 
 large quantities, although they remain on our shores and 
 streams from April to November. They are a delicate 
 morsel, when fat, which is in the fall months. 
 
 Sora, English, or Carolina rail. — This trim-look- 
 ing bird is seldom seen for sale, although it is much sought 
 after, and some seasons it is found quite plenty by sports- 
 men in New Jersey. Its flesh is of an exceedingly delicate 
 
170 THE MAEKET ASSISlkNT. 
 
 
 / 
 
 flavor, and much enjoyed by epicure^. In the best condition 
 in September- 
 Meadow hen, or clapper rati, — This bird is some* 
 times found in plenty in our markets, but not much sought 
 after, although when in good condition it is very well tasted 
 and tender. In the month of May it is generally quite 
 poor and not well flavored, but usually fine and fat in the 
 months of September and October. Their eggs are more 
 highly prized by some than their flesh, and thousands are 
 found in the salt grass. 
 
 Virginia rail, fresh- water marsh, or little 
 mud-hen. Occasionally this bird appears in our markets 
 in the months of April and May, and then again in Sep- 
 tember and October ; its flesh is not very delicate, but con- 
 sidered best in the fall months. 
 
 Mine water-hen — Virginia water-hen. — This 
 water bird (it is said) is brought principally from Virginia 
 to our markets. I have seen in Fulton Market (December 
 31st, 1855) several of these birds in very good condition, 
 which were called Virginia water-hens. Their color was of 
 a dirty blue, the tips of the centre feathers of the wings 
 were white, as also the under side of the tail feathers ; legs 
 dark green, and about half web-footed ; the head had the 
 appearance of a young pullet. 
 
 American coot, hen-foill, mnd-hen. — This bird is 
 often killed by sportsmen, but seldom sent to market, as it 
 is quite inferior eating. It is, however, sometimes seen 
 there, in the fall months, for sale. 
 
 Black gull, or Mack tern. — This species, as well as 
 many of its varieties, are occasionally found in our markets 
 for sale : I should suppose not so much for the table as for 
 the collectors. The flesh of the black tern is considered 
 better tasted and more palatable than any of its species, in 
 consequence of its food being collected near the fresh-water 
 streams. " Giraud" says : " The flesh of the gulls and terns 
 not being considered suitable for the table, they escape the 
 torture to which birds of a more delicately-flavored flesh 
 
WILD-FOWL AND BIEDS, CALLED GAME. 171 
 
 are subjected. Still, they are not entirely exempt from per- 
 secution, as there are those who fancy a gull's egg an ex- 
 ceedingly delicate morsel. 
 
 "The Florida Keys, which are the breeding-places for 
 great numbers of gulls and terns of various species, are 
 resorted to annually by ' eggers' — persons who make a busi- 
 ness of collecting the eggs of these marine birds" — and 
 those known to be fresh are taken to the West Indies, where 
 they are by many highly esteemed. " The fishermen, I am 
 told, make free use of the eggs ; those of some species, they 
 say, are exceedingly well tasted, affording palatable and 
 nourishing fare." 
 
 CJreat Mue heron or crane. — This long-legged, 
 long-necked, and long-billed bird, I have often seen when 
 brought to our markets, but presumed it was brought more 
 for the curious than for the table. Although a large, 
 awkward, coarse bird, it is said by some of my friends, that 
 when young and in good condition its flesh is well flavored, 
 and not coarse, as its appearance would indicate. Best in 
 the fall months. 
 
 "Singulae Phenomenon. — A gentleman residing at Ho- 
 boken, N. J., informs us that great numbers of woodcock 
 have been destroyed by a flock of cranes, which have in- 
 fested that neighborhood during the present week. For 
 the veracity of the gentleman from whom this intelligence 
 is derived, we will vouch." — " Commercial Advertiser," June 
 20, 1807. 
 
 Quawk, night heron, or black-crowned heron. 
 — Although this bird is seldom seen in our markets, yet it 
 is often shot and eaten, and I believe much better for the 
 table than the preceding, as it feeds more upon frogs, mice, 
 etc., or I may say, that it lives more upon "fresh meat 
 than on salt." Many years ago, they appeared to be more 
 plenty than they are at present. 
 
 White poke, snowy heron, or white-crested 
 heron. — This also is a scarce bird in our markets, like 
 many other beautiful, rare, or scarce birds, which are 
 
172 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 previously engaged and kept for those who are daily look- 
 ing after them for their collections. The young are best 
 when in condition, in the fall months. 
 ©reen heron, schyte-poke, or fly-sip-the-creek. 
 
 — This is a common bird in most of our creeks, and some- 
 times finds its way to our markets ; its flesh, when in con- 
 dition, is very well flavored, and considered best in the fall 
 months. 
 
 A friend of mine on a hunting excursion in New Jersey, 
 had shot several of these birds along the edge of one of the 
 fresh-water streams, which he found were very fine and fat, 
 and he lagged them ; he, however, came suddenly upon one 
 which did not take wing, but sat quite motionless : he ad- 
 vanced towards it with the expectation of finding it a dead 
 bird, set-up; he saw it move and he shot it: when he picked 
 it up, he found that it must have been in the act of swallow- 
 ing a cat-fish, when its two sharp horns had got crossways 
 in its throat, where the points had run through each side ; 
 which, no doubt, had closed its throat from all other food, 
 and when thus found, it was so poor and exhausted that it 
 could not fly. He informs me that the taste of their flesh 
 is much like that of the meadow lark, Indian hen, American 
 bittern, or look-up. This bird, though common, is not 
 numerous. On the sea-coast of New Jersey, it is known by 
 the name of dunkadoo, a word probably imitative of its com- 
 mon note. It is said to be excellent eating when fat, and 
 is generally so in the fall months. 
 
 Wild pigeon, or passenger pigeon, and wifld 
 squabs, — These numerous birds are found in our markets, 
 both alive and dead, very plenty, and generally cheap in 
 the latter part of September and October; they are also 
 found in less numbers through the winter months. 
 
 Great numbers are taken alive with nets, cooped up for 
 several weeks, and fed with grain until fat, then brought to 
 our markets as the prices advance ; while those that are 
 brought dead have been shot from off the " spar," and sent 
 here at the time of their " flying," which takes place gener- 
 
WILD-FOWL AND BIKDS, CALLED GAME. 173 
 
 ally in the month of March, when they are going north, and 
 then again in the fall, about the 15th to the 25th September, 
 when they leave for the Southern climate. Large numbers 
 of the old birds and squabs are sent here from the " West," 
 where they are killed or taken alive at their " roosts." The 
 wild squabs, when fat and fresh, are very delicate eating ; 
 the cooped bird is also good, the flesh being rather dry ; 
 but a poor wild-pigeon is very indifferent eating, even if 
 well and properly cooked. They are found best in the 
 months of September and October. 
 
 I have often enjoyed the sport of taking the wild pigeon, 
 both with the "net" and shooting them from the "spar." 
 A few day Si previous to their usual flight, a " bough-house" 
 is made by placing cedar bushes in the ground, in a circle, 
 large enough for one or two persons to go behind or out of 
 sight. A " floor" is then prepared by levelling the ground 
 about twenty feet square — say from fifteen to twenty yards 
 from the "bough-house;" then, on the left side of this 
 "floor," four crotched sticks are driven in the ground; the 
 two nearest the " bough-house" are placed quite close to- 
 gether, or about one foot apart, and the other two some 
 fifteen feet further off, and some three or four feet apart, 
 ranging a little higher than the two first, on a line from the 
 " bough-house," when two poles, of about twenty feet long, 
 are placed on these crotched sticks. The further end of the 
 poles should set high enough, that when the pigeons alight 
 they can be all seen from the " bough-house." A pigeon- 
 stool is then driven in the ground near the "floor," but so 
 as not to be covered when the " net" is sprung. The " stool- 
 pigeon," is blinded by drawing the under eyelids over the 
 eyeballs, so that the bird cannot see, and his feet and legs 
 tied with a woollen slip-noose fast to the stool, when he is 
 ready for action. A " flyer-pigeon" (and sometimes two or 
 three), are also blinded, and their legs tied to a fishing-line, 
 sixty or one hundred feet long. The net being large enough 
 to cover the " floor," is fastened to a strong rope, one end 
 being fastened in the "bough-house," and the other end 
 
174 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 carried beyond the " floor," also firmly fastened to a stake. 
 The net is drawn back from off the " floor," and fastened 
 with a trap, when, by a strong pull on the rope in the 
 " bough-house," the net flies quickly over, and covers the 
 whole "floor." This ground-floor is covered with buck- 
 wheat or rye-grain. 
 
 As soon as a flock of pigeons is discovered at a distance 
 of five or six hundred yards, the " flyer" is thrown up, and 
 flies to the length of his line, then hovers down to the 
 ground, as if in the act of alighting. By this time, the flock 
 being within one hundred yards, the "stool-pigeon" is 
 gently raised by means of a line leading into the " bough- 
 house," then suddenly let down, which causes him to flutter 
 as if also alighting. This is repeated until the flock is 
 attracted, and begins to sail around the "bough-house," 
 when the "stool-pigeon" is left quiet, and the flock dis- 
 covers the grain. 
 
 If the flock pitches on the " floor," a strong pull and they 
 are covered ; then haste to the net, and, if a large flock, 
 stones must be placed on the edges to keep them down, or 
 they would raise it up and escape. They are then taken 
 out as quickly as possible, ready for another flock, placed 
 in large flat baskets prepared for this business. If, how- 
 ever, they are a small flock — say from thirty to fifty — and 
 they alight on the spars, then the gun is brought to bear, 
 which sometimes sweeps them all off. I have known fifty- 
 killed at one shot. I chanced -to kill seventeen with one 
 barrel, and thought I was doing considerable in that line. 
 
 The largest number taken in a net, I ever heard or read 
 of, was noticed in one of the Detroit papers— the Oivosso 
 American— in the year 1858, which says: "Mr. Merritt 
 Eichardson, living a couple of miles south of this village, 
 on Wednesday last, caught, at one haul of his net, six hun- 
 dred and forty-eight wild-pigeons." 
 
 In the seasons of " great flights," thousands are brought 
 to our markets ; and, in " olden time," above one hundred 
 years ago, they were sold very cheap. I find, from the 
 
WILD-FOWL AND BIRDS, CALLED GAME. 175 
 
 New York Mercury — "One day. last week, upwards of 
 seventy-five thousand pigeons were brought to the market, 
 insomuch that fifty were sold for one shilling." 
 
 The Boston Weekly Post-boy, May 2, 1771, says : " The 
 great numbers of pigeons that have been brought to our 
 market within the fortnight past has greatly reduced the 
 prices of all kinds of provisions. It is said that nearly fifty 
 thousand were sold in one day." 
 
 Turtle-dove, or Carolina pigeon. — This bird is 
 smaller, but much like the wild-pigeon in general appear- 
 ance. Its flesh is much superior to that bird, and found 
 best in the months of August and September. They are 
 seldom found for sale in our markets, except in a living 
 state. 
 
 Robin, or red-breasted thrush. — Large numbers 
 of these well-known birds are found in our markets, and 
 thousands are also shot by all sorts of sportsmen, in the 
 months of September and October, when they are fat and 
 delicate eating. Again, in the spring months, they return 
 to the North, when some are guilty of shooting them, who 
 ought not to be encouraged by any one purchasing them, as 
 they are then "pairing off." I, however, think that these 
 birds are more useful to man living than dead. 
 
 ftJeadow-iarks, or meadow- s tar Bings. — These 
 yellow-breasted birds I have often shot in the neighborhood 
 of the present Twenty-fourth street, New York (and, I be- 
 lieve, lower down), both on the North and East Eiver sides 
 of New York, many years ago. The white flesh of a young 
 fat bird is almost as good as the quail, but not so plump or 
 large. The feathers on the back and head are a sort of 
 grayish-brown, while those on the breast and under are 
 yellow, spotted with black. In the fall months they are in 
 the best condition. 
 
 High-hole, clape, or golden-winged wood- 
 pecker. — This handsome bird is common in our markets 
 in the fall months, when it is fat, and its flesh quite savory, 
 but not so tender as the robin. Along in the month of 
 
176 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 June, I have seen the squab high-hole in our markets, look- 
 ing like a very small morsel of food, which perhaps a sick 
 person might relish ; but as for the nourishment, I should 
 think there was a very small quantity. In fact, it is a 
 cruelty to take such birds from their nests, without it was 
 to save human life. These birds are fond of wild cherries, 
 pepperage, or gumberries ; from the trees which the latter 
 grow on I have shot hundreds — sometimes as many as 
 twenty to thirty from off one tree, in an afternoon. 
 
 Med headed woodpecker. — This is not a common 
 bird, but is often killed in our State, and is quite as good 
 eating as the golden-winged woodpecker, but smaller. 
 
 Oriole, or Baltimore oriole. — Although this beau- 
 tiful bird is often seen on sale, yet they should never be 
 purchased except for a collection. They are of so much 
 value to the fruit-grower or farmer that they should never 
 allow them to be shot on their premises, as I am told they 
 are the only bird that eats the destructive curculio, besides 
 many other fruit-destroyers. Their nests are very artisti- 
 cally formed, being somewhat like a pocket hanging down 
 from the limbs of trees. They are beautiful as well as 
 valuable. 
 
 'White snow-bird, ortolans, or snow bunting. 
 — Its season with us begins with December, but is much 
 fatter and better in January and February, when its flesh 
 is much admired by the epicure. 
 
 liark and lark bunting".— Giraud, in his " Birds of 
 Long Island," says : " In the winter of 1838, several speci- 
 mens of this bird were observed in the New York markets, 
 having been shot on Long Island." No doubt, its flesh is 
 equal to the preceding, being of the same species and 
 habits. 
 
 Blackbirds • — There appears to be four species of 
 these birds which are occasionally found in our markets — 
 the cow-bunting, crow, red-wing, and the rusty graole — all 
 somewhat different in their colors and nature, but all are 
 called blackbirds. One curious fact in relation to the cow- 
 
WILD-FOWL AND BIRDS, CALLED GAME. 177 
 
 bunting is, that it never builds a nest or hatches its eggs. 
 It lays its eggs in the nests of other birds, who hatch out 
 the young and feed them. They are small, but sweet- 
 fleshed. Many are found along about the first of April, 
 then again in September, October, and November, when 
 they come from the North in very large flocks, from which 
 great numbers are killed at a single shot. 
 
 Reed-Mrds, rice-b routing's, rice-bards, or bob- 
 alink^ — These little fat birds, when brought dead and 
 picked to market, are usually called reed-birds, of which 
 large quantities are sold, tied up in bunches, like so many 
 pieces of fat strung together. Large numbers are found in 
 the Philadelphia markets, as it is quite near their feeding- 
 places. They are commonly known in Philadelphia as reed- 
 birds, in Charleston as rice-birds, and North, in the summer 
 months, when alive, as the bobalink (see bobolink). For the 
 table they are best in September and October, when they 
 have many admirers among epicures. 
 
 King-fisher, or belted king-fisher. — This blue- 
 crested bird I have seen in our markets occasionally, but it 
 is not much thought of as human food. Its flesh is quite 
 dry and tough, and generally strong, as it feeds principally 
 on fish. The young birds are best. I think one of the 
 fattest birds I ever saw was one of this species. They are 
 more valued for collections. 
 
 Snow-birds. — These birds are generally found in our 
 markets in October and November, and sometimes scatter- 
 ing later. When fat it is considered excellent eating. 
 
 Mime -jay. — This handsome blue-bird is often seen in 
 the fall months, tied up with robins, etc., in strings, for sale. 
 The head is tufted and quite large in proportion to its body. 
 Flesh not so well flavored as the robin. It is found in our 
 markets sometimes as late as December. 
 
 Boba links (see also reed or rice birds), — This bird, 
 under the name of bobalink, is frequently exposed for sale, 
 alive in cages, in our markets, but seldom killed for the 
 table until they are found feeding on the " wild rice" at the 
 
 12 ' 
 
178 THE MAKKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 South, under a new coat and name, when they are fat and 
 fine. 
 
 English robins, cedar-birds, yellow-tails, 
 cherry-birds, chatterers, quaker-birds, top- 
 knots, crown-birds, spider-birds, cedar wax- 
 wings, etc. — These small birds are known by more names 
 than any other birds in the country. They are occasionally 
 found in large numbers in our markets. Their flesh is but 
 a morsel of delicate eating, and only fit to eat in the fall 
 months. But I think they should never be killed, as they 
 destroy more destructive worms than perhaps any bird in 
 existence. In fact, all such worm-destroyers should not 
 only be protected by a stringent law, but every person 
 should be so instructed that no law would be required for 
 their protection. The few cherries they eat are generally 
 wormy. 
 
 Night-hawk. — This common bird is often heard, with 
 its harsh, jarring noise, over our city in the spring and sum- 
 mer months, flying and dashing through the air in chase 
 after the winged insects, upon which it feeds. Its flesh is 
 very delicate eating. 
 
 Cat-bird, or black-capped thrush, — This little 
 bird is sometimes found, tied up with a string of small birds, 
 in the summer and autumn months. Its body is very small, 
 but the flesh is sweet and good. 
 
 Brown thrasher. — This small, brown-backed bird is 
 not quite so large as the robin, and is often found tied up 
 in strings with other birds and sold in the markets. Its 
 flesh is delicate, what there is of it ; but its live body is 
 larger to the farmer, who ought to protect it. 
 
 Wood-robin or hermit- thrush. — This secluded 
 little brown bird I have, when a boy, often shot, mistaking 
 it for the female robin, in the wood, among the thickets. 
 Its flesh is sweet, but not worth a charge of powder, even to 
 a starving man. 
 
 Chewink, ground-robin or towhie hunting.— 
 These birds are scarcely ever found in our markets, yet, 
 
179 
 
 when fat, its flesh is very delicate, and highly esteemed, so 
 they say, in Louisiana, where it is called grasset. 
 
 Fine grosbeak or bHll-dincti. — These are rather 
 scarce birds, but have been known very plenty some years. 
 They are, when found here, in season in the months of De- 
 cember and January. Their flesh is very sweet, much like 
 that of the robin, and about the same size. 
 
 Cuckoo or cow-bird. — There are two species of this 
 bird — the yellow-billed and the black-billed — both of a brown- 
 ish cast, with a long tail. They are sometimes found tied 
 up with other small birds, for sale. Their flesh is quite 
 sweet, but rather a small body to so large-looking a bird. 
 
 Purple fincli, or crested purple linen. — These 
 little birds are sometimes found in our markets. Although 
 small, their flesh is very delicate when in good condition. 
 Best in the fall and early winter months. 
 
 Yellow-birds — Anieric&Ei goldlinch. — These 
 beautiful little yellow-birds, with black head, wings, and 
 tail, are often found alive, caged, and for sale, in our mar- 
 kets. The male bird is always the songster, and changes 
 its color in winter to that similar to the female. 
 
 Eagles. — This noble bird is never seen in our markets 
 for sale as eatable food, but I have seen them there for 
 sale, caged alive. "Charlevoix" says that "his people 
 threw down, near Oswego, an eagle's nest, which was com- 
 posed of a cartload of wood, and that it contained two 
 eaglets, which were not as yet feathered" — that " they were 
 eaten, and made very good food." They are often killed on 
 Long Island, both the gray and bald-head species, and 
 brought to our markets for the taxidermist. 
 
 BIKDS WHICH AEE SELDOM OR NEVER USED HERE AS HUMAN 
 
 FOOD. 
 
 The following are some of the birds which are seldom 
 found here, being exceedingly rare or scarce, but are used 
 for the table in other climates and regions ; others, again, 
 which are seldom or never eaten, except in extreme cases, 
 
180 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 either the flesh being too strong, tough, fishy, small, or 
 otherwise considered unfit for human food : 
 
 Eagles, hawks, goshawks, falcons, harriers, vultures or 
 buzzards, ravens, crows, gulls, terns, auks, pufiins or shear- 
 waters, jagers, guillenots, grebes, herons or egrets, cross- 
 bills, cormorants, gannets, petrels, sea-doves, ibis, skimmers, 
 grosbeaks, shrikes, gallinules, tonagus, orioles, mocking-birds, 
 whip-poor-wills, blue-birds, martens, swallows, with several 
 species of wild ducks, snipe, plover, sandpipers, buntings, 
 larks, woodpeckers, thrushes, etc., etc. 
 
 An anecdote is found of Prince Achille Murat, when he 
 resided in Florida (1847), where he often engaged in hunt- 
 ing, and it was said that nothing " that swims the water, 
 flies the air, crawls or walks the earth, but that he served 
 up on his table. Alligator steaks, frog shins, boiled owls, 
 and roasted crows are found palatable ; but there is one 
 animal that the Prince don't like. The buzzard is one too 
 many for him. He says : ' I try him fried, I try him roast- 
 ed, I try him stewed, and I make soup of him, but the buz- 
 zard is not goot. I have no prejudice against him, but I 
 cook him every way, and then I no like him.' ' 
 
 FISH. 
 
 The fish-markets of the city of New York and other 
 cities, have become generally known as the depots for re- 
 ceiving all the known varieties of the rarest and choicest 
 fish available for the table. We refer both to the salt and 
 fresh water fish of our coast and inland waters — of fish 
 living altogether in salt water, and those living in fresh, as 
 well as those living in both ; and others still, which at differ- 
 ent seasons of the year, exist both in salt and fresh water, 
 such as the salmon, shad, smelt, etc. 
 
 The flesh of these fish is eatable, but some species are 
 of a coarse, dry, ill-flavored and indigestible character, 
 although they are not considered poisonous unless they 
 
FISH. 181 
 
 have become so from feeding on poisonous or deleterious 
 substances. 
 
 The fresh-water fish appear to be more generally edible ; 
 the salt-water fish, however, is more nourishing and pala- 
 table. Neither should be eaten when out of season, as they 
 are considered best a short time before spawning, and unfit 
 to be eaten immediately after. 
 
 Under the Levitical laws, we find it ordained, that fish 
 with scales present the evidence that they are clean, and 
 are fit to be eaten, while those fish deficient of scales, 
 are placed by the same laws as being unclean, and therefore 
 unfit for food. (No lobsters, crabs, oysters, clams, or other 
 shell-fish are used by them.) This law, with the strict Jews, 
 is observed to this day. 
 
 There are some few people who, like the Jews, discard 
 numbers of fish, as well as animals, from the catalogue of 
 edibles, who in time, no doubt, will consider these objec- 
 tionable fish, etc., to be absolutely necessary to an increased 
 and better informed population. 
 
 In the several histories of fish, the authors do not agree 
 in many instances, especially in the varieties, as some 
 appear to have a desire to create new genera, or of multi- 
 plying species, which causes much confusion in arranging 
 them under their proper names. No doubt this cause for 
 increasing many of the varieties of the same species, arises 
 from sex, age, the different sea-shores, rivers, lakes, streams, 
 and changes produced especially by what they feed upon. 
 
 Large numbers of salt-water fish are brought to our 
 markets from a great distance, principally by steamboats 
 and fishing-vessels ; many of the latter are called smacks, 
 which are provided with " fish-wells," placed in the centre 
 of the vessel, by which the sea-water can flow in and out 
 through a latticed bottom, and thus preserve the fish alive 
 and fresh. 
 
 These fishing-smacks originated in New York more than 
 a century ago, as will appear from an article taken from an 
 old newspaper, which says : " The plan of bringing live fish 
 
182 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 to the New York markets, originated with a society of 
 gentlemen, who clubbed together to fit the smack "Amherst" 
 for that purpose." 
 
 Then we find in the Gazette, July 25, 1763 : " Saturday 
 last (23d) was launched the Amherst, fishing-smack, fully 
 rigged and fit for sea. There was a great concourse of 
 people to see her off. She sails for the ' Banks' this day." 
 
 The same paper, in the following year (January 30), in- 
 troduces the following lines in relation to this first fishing- 
 smack here : 
 
 " Since on our banks the porgey's found, 
 A smack they've built to try the ground ; 
 But when they have them on the dish, 
 Deduction finds sauce for the fish ; 
 Plumb-pudding and roast-beef also, 
 Come from our purses tho' they're low ; 
 And Princess Bay oft brought us up, 
 By which in plenty now they sup : 
 But now the case is altered quite. 
 We bid you, gentlemen, good-night." 
 
 The example of these gentlemen induced many others to 
 engage and fit out other vessels for this purpose, which 
 caused the supplies to become so plentiful as to cause the 
 Amherst company to discontinue, and sell their vessel. 
 
 The Legislature, also, to encourage the " fishery" on our 
 coast, passed an act in 1773, and introduced it to the public 
 through the following source : 
 
 "Chamber op Commerce, ) 
 New York, 6th of April, 1773. \ 
 " Whereas, The Legislature of the Province of New York 
 have, by an act passed the 8th of March last, directed that 
 the overplus of the duty of excise, collected in the said city 
 and county, be annually paid for the first year next after 
 the passing of the said act, to the treasurer of the Corpora- 
 tion of the Chamber of Commerce, to be, by the said cor- 
 poration, disposed of in such manner as they shall think 
 most proper, for encouraging a fishery .on the sea-coast, 
 
FISH. 183 
 
 for the better supplying the markets in the city of New 
 York. 
 
 " In order, therefore, that the intention of the Legislature 
 may be fully answered, and the inhabitants of this city re- 
 ceive the benefit of so laudable a donation, it is resolved 
 and agreed that the following premiums, hereafter men- 
 tioned, be paid by the treasurer of the Chamber of Com- 
 merce, to such persons who, upon application and due proof, 
 made to the satisfaction of the Chamber, shall be entitled 
 to the same, viz. : 
 
 To the owners and crew of any one boat or vessel who shall supply 
 this market with the greatest quantity of fish taken on the 
 • coast with trawl nets (ray and skate excepted), from the 1st 
 of May, 1773, to the 1st of May, 1774, the sum of £40 Qs. Od. 
 
 To the same— with the same exceptions — the next greater quan- 
 tity 30 
 
 To the same — greatest quantity of live codfish, from the 1st of 
 
 November. 1773, to the 1st of May, 1774 30 
 
 To the same — and the same time — next greatest quantity of live 
 
 codfish 20 
 
 The greatest quantity of live sheeps-head, from the 1st of May, 
 
 1773, to the 1st of May, 1774 20 
 
 The next greatest quantity of live sheeps-head 15 
 
 The greatest quantity of fresh mackerel, etc 10 " 
 
 In 1783, a curious article on fish originated on the many 
 varieties found in the New York markets at that period, 
 which appears in Gaines' Mercury, May 26th, and reads as 
 follows : " One day last week our market afforded us no less 
 than twenty- three different sorts of fresh" fish." This 
 brought out in the Royal Gazette, two days after, the follow- 
 ing : " Mr. Rivington having seen in yesterday's paper that 
 there were twenty -three kinds of fresh fish in the market, I 
 want to know if it will be below the dignity of your royal 
 typographic pen to announce to us their christened names. 
 And while you, a very droll fish, are swimmingly enjoying 
 your post, meridian tide, Goody Burton, or Barley Ealer- 
 nian, you may also tell us which of them will make the best 
 prelude to the noted Apres le poisson toujours, for much good 
 
184 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 it has often done to many of the old friends of Be Grege 
 
 Epicuri, Porcus" 
 
 In the next edition of the Gazette (31st inst.) appears the 
 following answer : " The Royal Gazette of the 27th inst., 
 having ushered into the public to request to you the first — 
 As Mr. Gaine has not favored us with the names of the 
 several sorts of fish which appeared in the market at the 
 same time, we can only judge from conjecture what they 
 were. From often walking through the market, I will ven- 
 ture to offer them conjecture with respect to some of them 
 at least. 
 
 " But your correspondent must not expect that I am to 
 announce the Christian names of all of them, as for in- 
 stance the jew-fish; this, we are to suppose, has never had 
 any such : and indeed, although the whole tribe of prisces 
 have water dashed in their faces every instant of their lives, 
 yet it will be hard to determine which of them have Christian 
 names. With respect to some of them suspicions may arise, 
 as the tom-cod, which being but a diminutive fish, is usually 
 called the tommy cod; and there is another called the jack, 
 and a third named the ship-jack, but the latter I suspect to 
 be the same fish as the sturgeon, for as in the improvement 
 of the English language (which probably will not prevail 
 much longer on this continent, and has been much adulter- 
 ated) it is not impossible that the name of this fish may 
 have been stir John ; or, indeed, another idea arises, that it 
 originally might have been sir jolm, for why should a loin 
 of beef be knighted in preference to a sprightly fish? 
 
 " There are other sorts brought occasionally to the markets, 
 such as pikes, pipers, sword and drum fish, but these are 
 found in greater quantities on the area before the bridewell 
 at six or seven o'clock in the evening ; and with respect to 
 the gudgeon and sheeps-head, they are to be met with at 
 every corner of a street, and black-fish are not uncommon. 
 
 "But among the noted number twenty three, that appeared 
 in market at the same time, we must not omit the probabil- 
 ity, at least, of the printer of the Royal Gazette, who is 
 
FISH. 
 
 185 
 
 allowed by the writer of the queries to be a droll fish, and 
 this writer himself, who appears to be a queer -fish, being of 
 the number, for as Porous, according to the Linnean system, 
 is a generical term for all sorts of hogs, that part of his sig- 
 nature may be supposed a sea-hog. 
 
 " With respect to the latter query, which will make the 
 best prelude to the noted apres le poisson toujours, I shall 
 only answer, Chacun a son gout. In copia cantus." 
 
 Twenty years after the above articles appeared, a pre- 
 pared list of some fifty-six different varieties of fish, then 
 commonly known in the New York markets, are found 
 noticed, some of which appear to possess names not com- 
 mon at the present day. They are found below, alphabet- 
 ically arranged, with their original orthography preserved. 
 
 *Ale wives. 
 
 *Killey-fish. 
 
 *Sea-bass. 
 
 Bass or rock-fish. 
 
 King-fish. 
 
 Shad. 
 
 Black-fish. 
 
 Lamper-eels. 
 
 Sheeps-head. 
 
 *Bregals. 
 
 Lobsters. 
 
 Shrimps. 
 
 Cat-fish. 
 
 Logger-heads (turtle) 
 
 Skate. 
 
 Chub. 
 
 plenty. 
 
 Smelts. 
 
 Clams. 
 
 Mackerel. 
 
 Snails or conk. 
 
 Cod. 
 
 Mullet. 
 
 Snapping-turtle. 
 
 Crabs. 
 
 Muscles. 
 
 *Soles. 
 
 *Dog-fish. 
 
 Oysters. 
 
 Spanish mackerel. 
 
 Drum-fish. 
 
 Pike. 
 
 Sturgeon. 
 
 Eels. 
 
 *Pissers (clams). 
 
 ^Suckers. 
 
 *Fiddlers, plenty. 
 
 ^Pollock. 
 
 Sun-fish. 
 
 Flounders. 
 
 Porgeys. 
 
 Tarrapins. 
 
 Gar-fish. 
 
 ^Prawns. 
 
 *Tom cod. 
 
 Green turtle. 
 
 *Ray. 
 
 Trout. 
 
 Haddock. 
 
 Salmon. 
 
 Weak-fish. 
 
 Hollebut. 
 
 * Scollops. 
 
 White perch. 
 
 Herring. 
 
 ^Sculping. 
 
 Yellow perch. 
 
 — Daily Advertiser, Jan'y 9, 1804. 
 
 An anxious Philadelphian, who wished to exhibit a 
 greater variety than is noticed above, writes to the editors 
 of the Philadelphia True American, and says : " Seeing a list 
 of fish that is brought to the New York markets, I wish to 
 lay before the public a list brought to the Philadelphia 
 market ;" and then names over all the above except those 
 
186 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 marked with a star, but in their places adds the following 
 (which numbers seventy varieties — fourteen more than those 
 found in New York). 
 
 Bass (not rock-bass). Horse mackerel. Sea trout. 
 
 Black backs. Manhaden. Sea eels. 
 
 Black perch. Minees. Sharks. 
 
 Brown-back turtle. Mud shad. Stink-pots (turtle). 
 
 Carpp. Mud wallepers. Suckers. 
 
 Dolphin. Ohio cat (fish). Susquehanna turtle. 
 
 Gudgeons. Oldwives (perch). Swallow-tailed cat-fish. 
 
 Hawks-bill (turtle). Roach. "Water-turtle, red belly. 
 
 Hickory shad. Salmon trout. White-bellied cat : fish. — 
 
 Horn-fish. Sea cat. Ohronicle Express, Jan'y 17, 1804. 
 
 In the above lists, but very few of the fine fresh-water fish 
 are found, and those only of the small or poor kinds ; and 
 it is only a few years since a regular business has been 
 established by which the many excellent varieties from the 
 large Western lakes, rivers, etc., have — in their proper 
 season — been found on the tables of the citizens of either 
 New York, Boston, Philadelphia, or Brooklyn. It was 
 thought that when the Great Canal was finished, we should 
 be well supplied, or so it is noticed in a letter dated in 1820 : 
 " The fish-markets of the cities on the Hudson will be 
 greatly improved by the canal. New species will be brought 
 down in ice, in a perfect state of preservation, and the 
 epicure of the South will be treated with new and untried 
 dishes of the highest flavor." 
 
 The canal, however, did not do as much business in the 
 fresh-fish line as it did in bringing thousands of barrels of 
 salted fish, which were then known as lake trout or salmon, 
 pickerel, white fish, and sisquette, which produced very 
 high prices. There were, however, an occasional lot of fresh 
 fish, and perhaps the first brought for our markets was thus 
 noticed by the press, September 14, 1826 : " About five 
 hundred weight of fresh salmon {lake salmon) from Lake 
 Ontario, was exhibited for sale in Fulton Market this morn 
 ing. They were conveyed to this city via the Erie Canal, 
 packed in ice and in fine order. Should they command a 
 
' FISH. 187 
 
 price that would warrant the expense of transportation, and 
 yield a profit, they can be brought to our market every 
 week during the season. They were sold for thirty-one 
 cents a pound to the first purchaser." 
 
 In this manner small lots were received — only, however, 
 occasionally ; but when the railroads were established, a 
 more regular supply of the fine fresh fish took place, espe- 
 cially in the cold season, when fish were sold at high prices, 
 and they could be carried in a frozen state ; since which, 
 additional facilities for reaching the upper lakes by steam- 
 boats has increased the varieties and numbers as well as 
 lessened the prices of the choice kinds in our (N. Y.) city. 
 
 The number of fish will be much increased by persons 
 engaging in growing fish in the numerous estuaries, ponds, 
 creeks, etc., for market purposes, as is now done for the 
 European markets. 
 
 The culture of fish originated with an humble but intel* 
 ligent fisherman named John Eemy, of Yosges, France, who, 
 although uneducated, by dint of penetration, observation, 
 and perseverance, succeeded in raising fish from the seed 
 or eggs, under various circumstances. Mr. Milne Edwards 
 declares in a Eeport to the Academy of Sciences, that Eemy, 
 with his colaborer Gehin, has the merit of having " created 
 a new industry in France ;" and Mr. Geoffrey St. Hilaire, 
 the great naturalist, pronounced Eemy one of the " bene- 
 factors of his country." 
 
 To protect several of the choice species of the fresh-water 
 fish, which sportsmen call game-fish, a law was passed in 
 New York on the 6th of April, 1860, which prohibited any 
 person "to have in possession on exposure for sale — any 
 speckled brook-trout, or spotted trout, or lake trout, between 
 the first day of September and the first day of March, or 
 any salmon trout, or any muscalonge, between the first day 
 of December and the first day of April, in each and every 
 year, under a fine of five dollars for each fish so taken or 
 had in possession. 
 
 " No person or persons shall take any salmon trout, save 
 
188 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 in the waters of Lake Erie and Lake Ontario; or any 
 speckled brook-trout, or speckled river-trout or lake-trout, 
 or muscalonge, in any of the waters of this State at any 
 time, save with hook and line, under a fine of two dollars for 
 each fish so taken." 
 
 The demand for fish in the season of Lent is much greater 
 than at any other time of the year. Then we usually find 
 the numerous stands in our fish-markets loaded down with 
 many varieties, which are sold at prices within the reach 
 of all. 
 
 In choosing perfectly fresh fish the following general fea- 
 tures will show themselves. The fish should be quite firm 
 and stiff, eyes stand out full and clear, gills quite red, and 
 the fins firm, not hanging, or moving about as the fish is 
 moved. 
 
 Fish are seldom subjected to diseases, but sometimes they 
 are found in an unfit or unwholesome state, whether occa- 
 sioned by some peculiar food or water, or from other causes. 
 A singular phenomenon occurred in the month of Novem- 
 ber, 1844, when the whole coast was strewed along with 
 dead fish of many kinds. An old fisherman, in the New 
 London JSfeivs, says, the smack in which he was had been 
 unsuccessful, but very few fish having been taken, and on 
 many of the old fishing-grounds not one could be found. In 
 returning along the south shore of Long Island, their at- 
 tention was attracted to the beach, which was literally 
 strewed with the bodies of dead fish just washed up by 
 the sea. 
 
 Blackfish, Cunner's (bergalls), lobsters, and crabs, and 
 many other species which inhabit our shores at this season, 
 lay promiscuously on the sand. On examining the well of 
 the smack, it was discovered that the fish which they had 
 taken were also dead. As far as the shore was examined 
 eastward, towards Montauk Point, it was found to be cov- 
 ered alike with dead fish. 
 
 " "We are also informed that the smack Caroline, on Fri- 
 day last, while about fifteen miles from land, passed through 
 
FISH. 189 
 
 a rip (formed by adverse tides) which was filled with dead 
 fish. Soon after this the well of the smack was examined, 
 and every fish in it found to be dead. These remarkable 
 facts require scientific investigation. Similar phenomena 
 have been observed in the Mediterranean after a volcanic 
 eruption on some of the neighboring mountains ; and it is 
 quite probable, we think, that the destruction of the finny 
 tribe noticed above was caused by a like eruption at sea, 
 near our coast." A friend of the editor of the U. S: Gazette, 
 Philadelphia, " who has just returned from the seashore of 
 New Jersey, informs us that the whole shore, for thirty or 
 forty miles, is covered with dead fish, cast up by the sea. 
 They are of all kinds, from the smallest perch to the largest 
 sturgeon, some rock-fish weighing forty or fifty pounds, and 
 rich sea-bass. Many of the fish are washed up before they 
 are dead. So great is the number, that a gentleman com- 
 puted that on Learning's Beach alone there must be ten 
 thousand bushels. What has happened among the fish we 
 cannot tell, as we do not know to what unwholesome influ- 
 ences they are liable in the depths below, but something 
 extraordinary must have been in operation to produce an 
 evil so extensive. Was it a volcanic eruption ?" 
 
 Several of the different species of fish noticed in the fol- 
 lowing pages are found with several names to each one — 
 given to them in different places by different persons : 
 such names have been placed with those they represent, 
 that the variety or species may be designated. They 
 are under their several distinct heads, that each may be 
 more easily referred to, beginning under each caption with 
 those which are considered the best, and so in order, as they 
 have appeared to decrease in value for the table. 
 
 These captions will appear, 1. Large and abundant; 2. 
 Small and abundant; 3. Large and scarce; 4t. Small and 
 scarce, concluding with Shell-fish. Under the first and sec- 
 ond captions are those noticed which are usually found 
 abundant in their seasons. Under the third and fourth 
 headings are those which are occasionally and rarely found 
 
190 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 in our fish-markets ; while there are many other kinds again 
 noticed, which are not commonly used for the table, but 
 which are edible, or have been eaten under certain circum- 
 stances. 
 
 I may here add that those under the head of " Large," etc., 
 are usually preferred to boil, bake, or roast, and those under 
 the head of " Small," etc., are better calculated for the fry- 
 ing-pan or gridiron. With these observations, we will pro- 
 ceed with those under the first caption. 
 
 LARGE AND ABUNDANT. 
 
 Salmon. — This noble fish is generally considered the 
 choicest, most savory, and nutritive of all fish, and usually 
 commands the highest price of any kind sold in our mar- 
 kets, on account of its scarcity, distance brought, and the 
 difficulty of preserving them fresh and in good order. 
 
 The best salmon have small heads, and are quite thick 
 through the shoulders. Their usual weight runs from six 
 to twelve pounds each (although I have read of their weigh- 
 ing above sixty pounds). These fish, when on sale, are usu- 
 ally found too large for private families. The retail fisher- 
 men, however, cut pieces to suit purchasers. The middle-cut 
 is the choice, though some prefer the head and shoulders, 
 and others again the tail-piece. "When cut, the flesh should 
 appear quite red, solid, and flaky. 
 
 The Eastern salmon, from the Kennebec Kiver, are con- 
 sidered the best : those from the Penobscot arid St. John's 
 Rivers come next. They begin to arrive here sometimes as 
 early as the 1st of March, and continue to the 1st of Sep- 
 tember. Salmon sold lower in 1860 and 1862 than ever 
 before, or at least within the knowledge of the living : they 
 could be bought for eight and ten dollars per hundred 
 pounds, and it was said some sold at a lower price. 
 
 Scotch salmon, brought from Scotland in our steam- 
 ers, are sometimes found in our markets near all the year 
 round ; but they are not usually in very good condition, and 
 
pish. 191 
 
 therefore do not rank with our Eastern salmon when in 
 season. 
 
 Large quantities of these fish are found in the cured 
 state, either pickled, soused, salted and smoked, etc., sold 
 singly or in packages at much lower prices than in the fresh 
 state, having been cured where taken. 
 
 It is very seldom in fact, for many years past, that salmon 
 are taken in the North, or Hudson Eiver, although at an 
 early period they were very plenty. The .earliest record of 
 this fact appears in Juet's (Hudson's mate) journal on his 
 passage up the Hudson Kiver in 1609 in the vessel called 
 the " Half-Moon," which says : " Sept. 15. The morning 
 was misty until the sun arose ; then it cleared, so we weighed 
 with the wind at south, and ran up into the river twenty 
 leagues, passing by high mountains. We had very good 
 depth, as six, seven, eight, nine, ten, twelve and thirteen 
 fathoms, and great store of salmon in the river." 
 
 In 1771 a number of persons in the country of Albany de- 
 frayed the expense of procuring salmon from the rivers and 
 lakes where they abound, and placed them in the Hudson 
 Kiver, that they would, by spawning there, soon become 
 numerous. In the same year a law was passed (on the 16th 
 of February) to prevent persons taking and destroying 
 salmon in the Hudson River, under the penalty of ten 
 pounds. 
 
 We find, after this period, that they were occasionally 
 taken in this river, and sometimes quite near the city. The 
 Philadelphia Press, in 1793, announced the taking of a shad 
 in the month of January, when a New York subscriber says : 
 " A number of your readers are surprised that you would 
 not notice a salmon that was also taken in January." Then 
 follows on — " In January, by a shad, .the mighty city was 
 made glad ; — A salmon, eke in January, made Manhattans 
 quite as merry. — New York, January 24, 1793." 
 
 In answer, the Philadelphia editor says : " On the 21st of 
 January a winter salmon was dined on in Boston by a num- 
 ber of citizens of that capital. The New Yorkers will, there- 
 
192 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 fore, not consider themselves alone in that unusual January 
 regale." 
 
 From the New York Minerva, June 22, 1796, we find re- 
 corded : "A salmon, weighing twelve pounds two ounces, 
 was caught (on Monday 20th) by Captain James Deas, at 
 Little Sligo, four miles up the North Kiver." 
 
 This same gentleman is found again successful, and is 
 thus noticed in the Commercial Advertiser, June 23, 1808 : 
 " A very fine salmon, weighing eight pounds and three-quar- 
 ters, was caught by Captain James Deas,* at Camperdown, 
 near Weehawk Ferry, on Tuesday morning last. This is the 
 second salmon caught at that place by the same gentleman, 
 within eight years." In the month of June, 1826, " a fine 
 salmon was caught at Bed Hook, in a net spread for weak- 
 fish. It was brought up to Fulton Market and sold at auc- 
 tion, and bid up to almost ten dollars. It was supposed to 
 weigh about ten pounds." Then in the month of May, 1831, 
 says Niles' Register : " A salmon, weighing eighteen pounds, 
 was lately caught in the Hudson River, opposite Catskiil — 
 a rarely-known visitor of the waters of that river." Brown, 
 also, in his "Angler's Text-book," says: "A number were 
 taken in nets, in the Bay of New York, in the month of June, 
 1844:." In the London Times we find an enormous large 
 salmon " was caught at Chanonry Point, Moray Firth, For- 
 trose, which weighed sixty-two pounds." Penant, an old 
 writer, also mentions one that weighed seventy-four pounds. 
 
 New York City began to be regularly supplied with fresh 
 salmon, from the Kennebeck River, Maine, about the years 
 1832-3, by some of the coasting schooners, which occasionally 
 brought small lots in ice during one or two of the summer 
 months, or, rather, from about the first of June to the last 
 of July. These were consigned to Mr. John Niles, a pro- 
 duce merchant, No. 212 Washington-street, who immedi- 
 ately announced the arrival thus : " Feesh salmon. — The 
 
 * Captain James Deas died on the 22d of April, 1812, at his residence, 
 New Jersey. He belonged to the St. Andrew's and Marine Societies, of New 
 York. 
 
MSH. 193 
 
 schooner Pioneer arrived this morning with a fresh cargo 
 of fresh salmon to Mr. J. Niles. The lovers of this delicious 
 fish will have an 'opportunity, to-morrow morning, to obtain 
 any quantity by calling on Mr. Mies or his representatives, 
 either at the Washington (Messrs. Eldridge and Ashley) or 
 Fulton (N. Rogers) markets." — Commercial Advertiser, June 
 13, 1834. 
 
 Spanish mackerel. — This choicest of fish is found 
 very plentiful during some seasons, usually in the months 
 of June, July, August, and September. Their general ap- 
 pearance is similar to the spring mackerel, but a much 
 larger fish, and without the dark lines on the sides ; there 
 are, however, three or four rows of pale yellow spots instead. 
 
 There is another variety, called the spotted cybum, which 
 is known among the fishermen also as the Spanish mackerel. 
 It, however, appears a slimmer fish, more compressed, and 
 with sometimes four and five rows of bright yellow spots, 
 nearer together and running alternately on the sides nearly 
 the whole length. The Spanish mackerel are sold usually 
 at high prices, and their general weight ranges from two to 
 eight pounds. 
 
 The Herald, August 17, 1862, says : " The largest Spanish 
 mackexel ever captured in the vicinity of New York was 
 caught on Friday, at Long Branch, weighing twenty pounds, 
 and over four feet in length. It was presented to Mr. C. V. 
 Clickner, of the Dey-street House." 
 
 ^Iseep head is a name given to this choice fish from 
 the appearance of the mouth and teeth, which are much 
 like those of the sheep. It is a large, short, deep fish, sil- 
 very in appearance, seven or eight dark bands running 
 across it, and with a smutty face. There are many who 
 think it the very best fish for a boil that swims. Weight 
 from four to ten pounds, and in season from May to the 
 first of October. Be careful that you buy them fresh, as 
 they spoil much sooner than many fish, on account of their 
 food, which consists principally of muscles, etc. The editor 
 cf the Commercial Advertiser — July 3, 1822 — gives his ex- 
 
194 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 perience in the purchase of a stale fish of this species, 
 which he thus describes : " There was a fine-looking stock of 
 sheep head in the market yesterday, killed and dressed, one 
 of which, soon after we had the misfortune to bring it home, 
 forcibly reminded us of the following anecdote : A colored 
 man being once on a time in the market, was detected by 
 the owner smelling a fish. ' What are you about, you black 
 rascal ?' said the fishmonger ; ' do you smell of my fish ?' 
 * I no smell him, Massa,' said Cuff, ' I talk to him. I ask 
 him what news from sea.' ' Well, sirrah, what does he say ?' 
 ' He say he no been dar dis tree week, massa.' " 
 
 Several fine live specimens were shown at the Fair of the 
 American Institute, held September, 1860, which were fur- 
 nished by Messrs. Miller & Co., of Fulton Market, who took 
 several prizes for showing a large and choice collection of 
 " sea-fish." One of these live specimens was taken to Bar- 
 num's Museum, where I have seen him several times since, 
 and is yet alive (1864), but grown considerably larger. 
 While at the fair I became much attached to him, for his 
 tameness (in fact, so much so, that he would come up to my 
 hand at the top of the water), that I would not have parted 
 with him but for the great trouble of procuring fresh salt 
 water daily for his preservation. 
 
 Striped-bass, streaked-bass (known South as) 
 Rock, Mock-fish, and Rock-bassi — These fish are 
 highly prized by all who have eaten them. Those from a half 
 to one pound weight are best to fry ; above that weight to 
 three pounds should be split for broiling, and from four to 
 eight are the choice to boil. The very large fish are some- 
 times known as " green-heads," and are usually found coarse 
 and rather dry eating, especially when above twenty-five 
 pounds ; then the best manner to prepare them is to boil 
 and souse, or pickle the flesh. In color, the back is of a 
 bluish brown, silvery sides, and lighter underneath ; the 
 number of stripes running from the head is usually eight, 
 four of which most commonly reach the tail — the rest are 
 shorter. They are never found alive on the stands, and 
 
FISH. 195 
 
 cannot even be kept alive in the "fish- wells," or cars, on ac- 
 count of their wildness, as they soon wear themselves out, 
 or, rather, their fins off, and die. Although they are seldom 
 out of the markets, yet some months they are scarce, viz. : 
 July and August, and again in December, January, and 
 February. They are, however, best in September, October, 
 and November. In the spring months they run quite small 
 and make excellent pan-fish. 
 
 Of the immense numbers that have been caught at one 
 time, the following will give the reader some idea. The 
 New York Packet, September 1st, 1785, says : " Tuesday 
 evening se'nnight, upwards of one thousand weight of rock- 
 fish were caught at one haul, in the Delaware, near Trenton. 
 Some of these fish weighed near thirty pounds apiece, and 
 generally from eight to twenty." 
 
 The Commercial Advertiser, August 4, 1812, notices a 
 " Miraculous Draft of Fishes. — On Monday afternoon last, 
 two hundred and twenty-five fine (striped) bass were caught 
 at a single draft, in the Hudson River, below the dam, at 
 the village of "Washington. They weighed from Hye to 
 thirty pounds each, and the whole amount was nearly three 
 thousand weight. "What renders this circumstance the more 
 remarkable is, that none of the fisheries on the Hudson 
 have ever been noted for large quantities of bass. The 
 taking of a single one of thirty pounds, in the course of the 
 season, has at all times been considered as very rare and 
 uncommon. Small bass, however, are occasionally caught 
 in considerable quantities, but they are by no means plenty, 
 nor is our market at any time ever tolerably well supplied 
 (except in the spring season) with fish caught in the Hud- 
 son." 
 
 Then we find in the Baltimore Gazette, in May, 1834, — 
 " Yesterday some fishermen, at Carpenter's Point, took, at a 
 single haul, upwards of eight hundred rock-fish, of the 
 largest size we ever saw. Some of them weighed upwards 
 of one hundred pounds, and the most of them averaging 
 between fifty and one hundred pounds. They were selling 
 
196 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 this morning in the market at from fifty cents to one dollar 
 for the largest — say one cent a pound for such fish as this." 
 
 An enormous striped bass was caught with a hand-line 
 at Cuttyhonk, near New Bedford, in the year 1860, which 
 weighed one hundred and four pounds. 
 
 Within my recollection, there were particular docks and 
 other places around our city where this fine fish was caught 
 in abundance in certain seasons and tides ; and the Battery, 
 on the bridge leading to the Castle Garden, was one of them, 
 which some fishermen held as a favorite place. Here, occa- 
 sionally, instances occurred of very successful angling. 
 "On Saturday afternoon (says the Press, October 12, 1816), 
 a young gentleman of this city caught off the Battery, with 
 a hook and line, nearly two hundred striped bass, weighing 
 from a quarter to one pound and a half. Several others 
 caught nearly a similar number." Another paper, October 
 17, 1832, notices some " Fine Spokt. — Twelve hundred bass 
 were caught from the Castle Garden bridge yesterday." 
 
 Then we have some remarkable and curious incidents, the 
 first of which is found in the Commercial Advertiser, Sep- 
 tember 28, 1816, as follows : " On Wednesday, one of our 
 scientific anglers, Mr. Ellis, brought in three fish upon one 
 hook — the largest, a fine bass, weighing about three pounds. 
 The hook had been baited with a small live chub, which was 
 swallowed by a bass of about one-half or three-quarters of 
 a pound weight, and the whole swallowed by the large fish, 
 leaving the tail of the small bass projecting from its mouth. 
 This spectacle establishes a fact in natural history, we be- 
 lieve, not generally known, that the voracity of this fish 
 induces it to devour its own species." — Albany Argus. 
 
 The Connecticut Mirror notices — " A large bass, weighing 
 between fifty and sixty pounds, was caught a few days since 
 at Haddam, about twenty miles below this city. Upon 
 opening it, it was found to contain a junk bottle of rum, which 
 it is supposed must have dropped overboard from some 
 vessel or boat, and caught while sinking by this tippler of the 
 deep." — Commercial Advertiser, June 19, 1820. 
 
FISH. 197 
 
 The following incident was — in the year 1818 — related by 
 Mr. John Scudder, proprietor of the American Museum, in 
 this city(N. Y.) "In 1801 or '2, an Albany sloop, becalmed, 
 was gently drifting on her passage through the Highlands : an 
 eagle was observed in the river, fluttering its wings in vain 
 efforts to rise. Some hands in the boat rowed off, and, with 
 a line cast round the body of the eagle, drew it alongside 
 and took it safely on board, together with a large bass that 
 weighed thirty-three pounds, into which it had struck its 
 talons, which became so inserted between the joints of the 
 vertebrae as to prevent extrication. The eagle (of the bald 
 species) was brought alive to this city, and was purchased 
 by Mr. Savage, who at that time kept a museum which Mr. 
 Scudder attended."— Ibid., May 9, 1818. 
 
 The same paper, March 21, 1832, also says : " While 
 some men were rowing up Newtown Creek, day before 
 yesterday, they discovered a sea-dog stealing bass from a 
 fuik of a bass-net. They succeeded in taking him, and he 
 was brought to this city, and, of course, was instantly bought 
 by Dr. Scudder for the American Museum, where he is now 
 exhibiting." 
 
 Six years after, the same paper (June 16, 1838,) gives the 
 following : " Amusing incident which occurred on board the 
 steamboat Swan, during her passage up Princes Bay. It 
 appeared that quite a group of ladies were assembled before 
 the looking-glass preparing for dinner, while one, more in- 
 dolent than the rest, was taking her siesta on a sofa, re- 
 clining at her ease, in the full enjoyment of all the pleasant 
 visions that a blooming beauty of eighteen summers is sup- 
 posed to possess, when an enormous rock-fish, or striped 
 bass, suddenly jumped through the port-hole and fell in her 
 lap. Whether the lady or the poor fish was the most 
 frightened, we do not pretend to say ; the lady, however, 
 possessing that inestimable gift of nature, the power of 
 making her troubles known, shrieked in such a manner as 
 to drive the others in the greatest consternation among the 
 gentlemen, sans hats, sans curls, sans ceremony ! Mean- 
 
198 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 while, Commodore Scliultz made his appearance in the 
 cabin, and found, to his dismay, a lady apparently lifeless, 
 and a large fish bouncing about the cabin, among his furni- 
 ture. The Commodore, however, in a few minutes, suc- 
 ceeded, with the aid of a few whose better feelings overcame 
 their fears, in restoring life to the inanimate fair one, and 
 destroying that of the rude intruder." 
 
 One hundred years ago, a law (noticed in the Gazette, No- 
 vember 14, 1758) was passed, to prohibit the selling or 
 bringing certain fish, called bass or twalft (see Big Drum), 
 to the city, in the months of December, January, and Feb- 
 ruary, in consequence of the " great decrease of that kind 
 of fish," and also of their being unsound and unwholesome 
 in those months. The penalty for such offence " was forty 
 shillings lawful money of New York," and the forfeit of 
 such fish. " And if it be a negro, mulatto, or Indian slave, 
 shall receive such corporal punishment at the public whip- 
 ping-post, as the mayor, recorder, or aldermen shall think 
 fit, unless the master or mistress shall pay the above fine." 
 
 Sea-foa§§. — This well-known fish is a general favorite 
 for the table. The color is of a bluish black, and the fins 
 of a lighter blue. They are usually found, or caught, from 
 one-half pound up to eight pounds weight, and in season 
 from 1st of May to the 1st of October. The small fish are 
 an excellent pan-fish, and those of a large size, which have 
 a beautiful indigo-blue head, and weighing from three to six 
 pounds, are best for boiling. 
 
 A nautical correspondent (in the New York Journal, 
 August 4, 1785,) informs masters of vessels bound to the 
 northward of Cape Hatteras, and especially those that fall 
 in about the cape, and are anywise short of provisions, that 
 in latitude 35° 46' and about the longitude of the cape, there 
 is a large muscle-bank, intermixed with cockles and small 
 pebbles, lying in fifty fathoms water, and abounds with 
 sundry fish, such as sea-bass, sea-trout, flounders, skate, 
 tusk (cusk), and dog-fish. The sea-bass here are very re- 
 markable with respect to their largeness, generally weighing 
 
FISH. 199 
 
 from four to six pounds each, and upon an average twenty 
 to the hundred weight. A vessel has filled two barrels upon 
 this bank in the space of two hours, with only three lines 
 and three hooks, and there is no doubt if two hooks had 
 been applied to each line, they might have got double the 
 quantity. The water upon this bank differs very little in 
 color from the ocean, and in the very height of winter is 
 very little colder. There are likewise to be caught in the 
 winter season, fish, by towing over this bank, if a person 
 has suitable bait, such as the ballaho, which they have gen- 
 erally in the West Indies ; but particular care must be taken 
 with regard to the quality of the tackling, as the fish are 
 remarkably strong and smart, and generally weigh from 
 twenty to thirty pounds each. Four or five lines have been 
 lost in an hour, and at last been obliged to bend the dipping- 
 line to the inner end of the tow-line, and by the means of 
 liaving length of line, and keeping the vessel in the wind, 
 the fish have been taken. No common towing will hold them 
 except using the foregoing method : they are supposed to 
 be overgrown blue-fish. 
 
 The Commercial Advertiser, July 17, 1815, has the follow- 
 ing account of some great fishing. " G. Davis, Esq., and a 
 party of gentlemen from Division-street (New York city), 
 went to the fishing banks properly equipped, and in one 
 hour and a quarter caught one thousand seven hundred 
 sea-bass, all of which, except about two hundred, they 
 brought to town in their car. A party from Staten Island, 
 a few days since, had similar luck. It is a fact, that sea- 
 bass were never before known to be so abundant as at 
 present." 
 
 The following incident is noticed in the New York Patriot, 
 July 17, 1824 : " Captain Josiah Ingersoll, standing in 
 "Washington Market on Tuesday morning last (1st July, 
 1824), a person employed by one of the hucksters made a 
 severe blow at a boy with a sea-bass. The boy dodged the 
 blow, and it fell on Captain Ingersoll's thigh, and many of 
 the back fin-bones were left in the flesh, some of which were 
 
200 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 immediately taken out. Shortly after it became very pain- 
 ful. As soon as lie arrived home medical aid was called 
 (Doctors Mott and Coulter), and it was found necessary to 
 lay open the thigh, which was done, and many more bones 
 were found, it is hoped all, but it is feared not. We are 
 sorry to state great fears are entertained for his recovery." 
 
 &had. — This well-known fish is a general favorite among 
 all classes of persons, as its flesh is considered among the 
 best, sweetest, the most delicate, as well as being the most 
 plentiful when in season. Nothing but its numerous bones 
 can be said against it. The color and general appearance 
 are so well known, that description is needless. It is sel- 
 dom or never found alive on the fish- stands, as they die in 
 a few minutes after being taken from the nets. When fresh, 
 their gills are of quite a crimson red, body firm, and scales 
 very bright ; but when their gills begin to turn a whitish 
 blue, eyes sunken, and the fish handles soft, it is then unfit 
 to eat. Weight from three and a half to five pounds. An 
 eight-pound fish is very scarce, although I find in Niles' 
 Weekly Register, June 17, 1815, " A shad was lately caught 
 in the Schuylkill which weighed eleven pounds and a quar- 
 ter ; extreme length thirty and a half inches, and round the 
 belly eighteen and a half inches." The editors of the New- 
 ark Advertiser also say they were presented with a shad 
 which weighed fourteen pounds, a few years ago ; but I 
 could not get sufficient testimony to prove the latter weight 
 correct, although I wrote to the editors. 
 
 In the spring of 1841 two large shad were taken in the 
 North River, and presented to the Hon. Robert H. Morris, 
 Mayor of the City of New York, by Mr. Alfred G. Thomp- 
 son, fisherman, of Washington Market. " The female shad 
 measured two feet and three inches in length, and eighteen 
 inches round the waist, weighing six and a half pounds. 
 The other, a male shad, measured two feet and two inches 
 in length, and fifteen inches round the waist, weighing seven 
 pounds." Mr. Peter Yincellette, of Jefferson Market, in 
 1857, had a very fat shad, which weighed eight and a half 
 
FISH. 201 
 
 pounds, and, what is most singular, it was found without 
 either the roes or melt. 
 
 Shad begin to appear in our markets, in small numbers, 
 from the South (Charleston), sometimes as early as the 1st 
 of February, and by the 20th are quite plenty ; then from 
 Ochrank (North Carolina) about the 1st of March ; Dela- 
 ware Eiver, the 20th of the same month ; North Eiver, on 
 or about the 1st of April ; although I read in the Commer- 
 cial Advertiser, January 17, 1807, " A shad weighing five 
 pounds was caught this morning at the Narrows, and sold 
 in our market for one dollar and twelve cents !" Then we 
 have them from Connecticut River about the 15th of April ; 
 and so they continue North along the coast to the Bay of 
 Fundy, where they are found to be very fat, fine, and 
 large. 
 
 The Southern fish received here are never very large, nor 
 so fat as those taken in the North Eiver. The best, how- 
 ever, are those from the Connecticut Eiver, which are 
 known by their superior size, length, square-shaped back, 
 and a fatter fish. It would almost seem, if we should judge 
 by their uniformity and size, that each river received back 
 again its own productions or births, year after year ; which 
 cause, no doubfc, produces so many different forms or va- 
 rieties. This fact appears confirmed by the following testi- 
 mony. William Ward, of Pennsylvania, who dates " Lower 
 Merion, 10th March, 1814," says : " About thirty years ago 
 (1784), John Eoberts, Cooper, and myself, in the fall season, 
 marked a considerable number of young shad, then from 
 four to five inches long, by cutting off a part of the upper 
 fin or fork of their tails, in order, if possible, to ascertain 
 whether they returned to the Schuylkill in the following 
 year. I was informed by Philip Shubert and Jacob and 
 John Colp, that they had caught, the ensuing spring, many 
 full-grown fish marked as aforesaid." 
 
 Those which are called bach shad are sometimes im- 
 properly caught, after having spawned and are returning to 
 the sea, when they are always poor, exhausted, and unfit to 
 
 9* 
 
202 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 be eaten ; in fact, no orthodox sportsman will permit a sh ad 
 upon his table after the 1st of June, as they are usually 
 nothing but head, fins, and bones. 
 
 The roes of the female shad are considered a delicacy, 
 and by some superior to the fish itself. The male shad has 
 also roes, or rather a melt ; but they are much smaller and 
 not so seedy-looking or red, but which many prefer, as they 
 think it more delicate eating. 
 
 Shad are found salted and also smoked, the year through, 
 and those cured and brought from Connecticut are consid- 
 ered the best. 
 
 At a very early period shad were taken so plentiful, that 
 large quantities were used to manure the ground. Of this 
 fact we have the evidence of Edward Winslow (the former 
 proprietor of a part of Daniel Webster's farm at Marshfield), 
 who writes to one George Morton, as early as December 11, 
 1621, the year after the Pilgrims landed, and says : " We 
 set (planted) the last spring some twenty acres of Indian 
 corn, and sowed some six acres of barley and peas ; and, 
 according to the manner of the Indians, we manured our 
 ground with herrings, or rather shads, which we have in 
 great abundance, and take with great ease at our doors." 
 Morton, also, says, in his New England Canaan, " There is 
 a fish by some called shads, by some allizes, that, at the 
 spring of the year, pass up the rivers to spawn in the 
 ponds ; and are taken in such multitudes in every river that 
 hath a pond at the end, that the inhabitants dung their 
 grounds with them," since which period large numbers of 
 shad have been caught all along the coast from Florida to 
 the Bay of Fundy ; but perhaps no place was more promi- 
 nent as a fishery than at our Narrows, prior to the year 
 1800. We find in the New York Journal, April 26, 1770, 
 the following : " Last week a remarkable quantity of shad 
 fish was taken at the Narrows, on Long Island. One of 
 the seines, as it was drawn towards the shore, was so filled 
 with fish, that the weight pressed it to the ground, whereby 
 great numbers escaped. A second seine was then thrown 
 
FISH. 203 
 
 out around the fish, a third around the second, and a fourth 
 around the third, and all filled in like manner. 
 
 " The number of shad that were taken by the first net 
 was three thousand ; by the second, three thousand ; by 
 the third, four thousand ; and by the fourth, fifteen hundred ; 
 in all, eleven thousand five hundred !" Another account is 
 given in the same paper, April 16, 1791 : " We hear that a 
 draught of shad was taken near the Narrows on Thursday 
 last, which consisted of fourteen thousand fish ! — to secure 
 which the fishermen were obliged to add several seines, one 
 upon the other. It is said that this single draught of shad 
 is worth upwards of <£200." 
 
 The following is an account of the number of shad taken 
 in the fuik net at New Utrecht, King's County, during the 
 following years, by the Cortelyou family, at their fishery in 
 the Narrows, as kept by Peter Cortelyou, Esq., formerly 
 Sheriff of King's County, Long Island : In the years — 
 
 1789 — 15,833 — the greatest number ti>ken on any one day of that year — 4,700 
 
 1790—24,086 " " " 5,266 
 
 1791—23,077 " " " 4,558 
 
 1792—11,460 " " " 1,900 
 
 1793- 8,145 " " " 1,468 
 
 1794—16,945 " " " 3,575 
 
 1795—15,917 " " " 1,960 
 
 (From 1795 to 1816 the memorandum was lost.) 
 1816 — 10,283 — the greatest number taken on any one day of that year — 908 
 
 1817— 9,683 " " " 1,876 
 
 1818— 9,453 " " " 459 
 
 1819— 8,653 " « " 397 
 
 1820— 8,233 " " " 436 
 
 1821— 6,259 " " « 1,214 
 
 1822— 4,115 « " " 391 
 
 1823— 3,434 " " " 420 
 
 1824— 3,115 " " " 482 
 
 This shad-fishery has been gradually decreasing since the 
 year 1824, so that now it is scarcely worth attending to. 
 The fish now taken (1838) for the whole season, does not 
 exceed the number taken in a single day, as stated, in 1817. 
 All the fisheries in New York harbor are nearly destroyed, 
 
204 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 and the fish which now supply the markets of that city are 
 brought from the distance of sixty, eighty, and even a hun- 
 dred miles.* 
 
 Mascalonge or JUuskelloiige. — This large fresh- 
 water fish belongs to the pickerel family, and is by many 
 considered the " king fish of the lakes." The color, when 
 fresh, is a very dark green on the back, quite gray on the 
 sides, and sometimes covered with dark or light marks, or 
 white, irregular spots. Their weight varies from fiye to fif- 
 teen pounds, although they have been taken above seventy 
 pounds. They begin to appear in our markets in the latter 
 part of October, last until April, and generally sell at high 
 prices. 
 
 A very fine, thick fish of this species — a most beautiful 
 specimen — was sent to me in the month of July, 1858, which 
 weighed above ten pounds. It was what an epicure would 
 call "delicious eating," and I am much indebted to my 
 friends, the Messrs. Miller & Co., of Fulton Market, for this 
 and many other rare species of fish. 
 
 An extraordinary large mascalonge, weighing forty-six 
 pounds, was sold by another fisherman (Win. M. Rogers & 
 Co.) of Fulton Market to the proprietor of the Astor House, 
 in April, 1857, to be served up at the opening of their " res- 
 taurant." When this fish was opened, two large silver, or 
 lake suckers were found inside, one weighing above three 
 pounds and the other two pounds. 
 
 An interesting sketch of the taking of a large mascalonge 
 near Clayton, on the St. Lawrence, is related by " Rambler," 
 in the New York Times, August 10, 1860, who says : " It is 
 not uncommon to see little boys and girls in skiffs, rowing 
 about the river, trolling. One day last week a small boy 
 was thus engaged in the bay, near the vessels lying at the 
 wharf, when he ' fastened' (a local term) to a muskallonge. 
 Being alone in the boat, with no implements to secure him 
 or kill him, and the fish being about as heavy as the boy, it 
 
 * Furman's Notes. 
 
FISH. 205 
 
 was a fair, and for a long time seemed to be a very doubt- 
 ful resulting fight. The lad, however, had the advantage ; 
 for while the fish was being weakened by the struggle, the 
 boy held his own. The boat swayed round and round as the 
 maskallonge struck out right and left, till at last the lad 
 succeeded in getting Mr. Maskallonge's head over the gun- 
 wale, and, by one sudden convulsion of the fish, in he came 
 into the boat. And now the reader may suppose the fight 
 was ended. Not so, for it had but just begun ; for the boats 
 sit low upon the water, and these fish, averaging about five 
 feet in length, will go overboard, if not prevented, quicker 
 than they came in. The little fellow let go the line and 
 seized Mr. Muskallonge around the body, and a rough-and- 
 tumble ensued upon the bottom of the boat, the fish being 
 first uppermost and then the boy ; but he held on and hal- 
 loed stoutly for help, when one of the guides, seeing his 
 condition, shot out with his boat from the shore and towed 
 in the contending parties. But the little fellow never re- 
 linquished his hold till the club was applied to the muskal- 
 longe's head, when it was ascertained the fish weighed for- 
 ty-eight and one-half pounds. Mr. Johnson, the proprietor 
 of the Walton House, sent the fish to the proprietor of 
 the Everett House, in New York." Forty years ago is 
 found in the Commercial Advertiser (December 10, 1824) the 
 following : " Maskeenonjai. — Among the wonders of our 
 waters will be found the huge and delicious maskeenonjai. 
 This fish is often taken in the nets with the white-fish, on 
 which it feeds with great voracity. It is taken of dimen- 
 sions from ten to fifty pounds, and we have heard of some 
 that weighed seventy ; but the largest that has been caught 
 this season was taken a few evenings since, by Mr. Joseph 
 Loranger, at a fishing-ground a short distance below this 
 city (Detroit) ; it measured four feet four inches in length, 
 was twenty-seven inches in circumference, and weighed for- 
 ty-seven pounds. On opening it three white-fish were found 
 in its belly, the largest of which was twenty-two inches in 
 length. A few days ago a fine maskeenonjai was presented 
 
206 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 to Colonel Smyth, of this city, by Colonel Bunce, of St. 
 Clair : it weighed forty-three pounds. Its skin and head, 
 together with a fine white-fish that was taken from its belly, 
 has been prepared by a young gentleman of this place, and 
 will probably be sent to the New York Museum, as that in- 
 stitution is destitute of this ichthyological specimen." 
 
 Black-fish, known as tan tog* in the Eastern States. — 
 This is, by some, considered one of the best fish for boiling : 
 with others, again, it is not a favorite. They are generally 
 found alive on the " stands," as they live a great while out 
 of water, being a bottom fish, and of a very slimy nature.* 
 The name " Black-fish," no doubt, is derived from the color 
 of its back and sides, being of a bluish black, and spotted 
 underneath with very thick, fleshy lips. I have seen them, 
 however, of many colors, where they have lain together in 
 large numbers, with patches or spots of reddish brown, and 
 sometimes white, etc. In season from June to December, 
 weight from three-quarters to five pounds, although I am 
 told the firm of Rogers & Co., Fulton Market, had one 
 which weighed twenty-three pounds, taken in 1845. The 
 Herald, of September 29, 1855, notices: "A fine large black- 
 fish, weighing nearly twenty-eight pounds, was caught at 
 McComb's Dam, on Thursday last," etc. 
 
 Blue-fish or snapping mackerel. — Several years 
 ago this species of mackerel enjoyed the name of horse- 
 mackerel and blue-mackerel, and is now known in Virginia 
 as green-fish, in Carolina as skip-jack, and in the Philadel- 
 phia markets as tailors. The first name denotes its color, 
 although lighter on the sides and underneath. The com- 
 mon size runs from two to six pounds, although sometimes 
 found above ten pounds weight. When fresh from the 
 water this fish is excellent, but grows strong and rancid 
 
 * A most remarkable feature in the black-fish is the heart, which shows 
 muscular life sometimes hours after having been taken out of a living fish. 
 I saw one, or, rather, part of one, which showed signs of life four and one- 
 half hours after it was brought to me. The movement was curious, as the 
 point of the heart would raise when the muscular contraction of the sides 
 took place, which it would do at short intervals. 
 
FISH. 207 
 
 after being out of the water any length of time. In season 
 from 1st of June to end of October. A few fine large fish 
 are found in November. 
 
 A blue-fish of twelve pounds' weight was caught by a 
 gentleman of New York, on the 10th of September, 1864, 
 while he, with some six others, was fishing off West Island, 
 near Newport. This fish, when opened, had nine large fish- 
 hooks clustered together in its maw, all of which were iden- 
 tified by the fishermen on the island as having belonged to 
 different parties who had been fishing there during the pre- 
 ceding three days. They were all in a good state of pres- 
 ervation, one of which appeared like a hook that a little 
 while before had been taken off the line of one of the party 
 by some large fish. 
 
 Another incident, somewhat of an amusing character, 
 happened during this excursion, which in substance ap- 
 peared as follows : After this party of seven left "West 
 Island, they proceeded to another called "Cuttyhunk," 
 where they arrived in the evening, and directed their steps 
 to one of the two residences or small houses which this 
 island contains, and inquired of the matron if they could 
 be accommodated with meals and lodging for the night. 
 "Wall," she drawled out, after counting over the party; 
 " we can eat you all, but we can't sleep but two — t'other 
 house could sleep the rest on you." 
 
 After the evening meal was finished, five of the party 
 made their way to t'other house, while the other two 
 repaired to their sleeping-room above, which they found 
 pretty well filled with all sorts of hunting and fishing traps, 
 besides a pretty good bed. So they sat down for a talk ; but 
 to make themselves more comfortable, one drew forth his 
 segar-case, while the other prepared the delicate-looking 
 snells and large hooks for the big ones which they expected 
 to take next day. So they chatted, smoked, and worked on 
 until the tackle was perfectly satisfactory. In the mean 
 time, our smoker had quietly taken possession of a part of 
 one end of the bed, where a reclining position seemed more 
 
208 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 acceptable to an unusually tired body ; and soon after the 
 other thought that he might as well, at least, enjoy the 
 same amount of repose, so he as quietly slipped into the 
 bed, where Morpheus soon after claimed him as his own. 
 
 Several times through the course of the evening, the 
 matron's son had mounted the stairway and looked anxiously 
 towards the smoker, who kept the white curling smoke 
 ascending, so that at least every corner and crevice of the 
 room would become somewhat disagreeable quarters for 
 any hungry mosquito that was waiting for a feast. The 
 boy at last excitedly jerked out something about " peowder 
 being dangerous about there," then quickly returned. But 
 our smoking friend supposed that he either wanted him to 
 go to bed and save light, or else fearing that he would set 
 the bed on fire, concluded that as he had not yet completed 
 his usual number of Havanas, he would not heed the boy. 
 However, the unusual noise made by the boy's return again 
 awakened our sleeper, who found the smoker yet enjoying 
 his segar ; and then followed the boy's voice, which rang 
 out in his nasal twang — "I say, mister, you'd better be 
 car'ful of that segar, as there is an open keg of peowder right 
 under the bed, which you mought set fire to /" It was now 
 clearly understood by both, and enough to immediately ex- 
 tinguish not only the segar, but also a good deal of sound 
 sleep which they expected to enjoy that night. They talked 
 and thought over the matter, but came to the conclusion 
 that the family, by having this keg of " villainous saltpetre" 
 so dangerously exposed, were preparing to give a warm re- 
 ception to the Southern pirates, who had been so lately 
 sneaking around the neighborhood under false colors, and 
 destroying the water-craft belonging to the poor fishermen, 
 but which powder had been so near giving a. warming to 
 their Northern visitors and tired friends. 
 
 Yellow pike perch, glass-eyed pike, Mg-eyed 
 pike, pike of the lakes, or Ohio salmon. — This 
 fine and truly American fish is sometimes known as " wall- 
 eyed pike," in consequence of their large eyes becoming 
 
FISH. 209 
 
 white or clouded after death. It is a much larger, rounder, 
 and longer fish than the common yellow perch. The fins 
 are of a golden or yellow color, back and head a purplish 
 brown, the sides yellow, and the belly white. Generally 
 found here in the winter and early spring months, weighing 
 from two to six pounds, and are very succulent and delicate 
 eating, particularly when boiled, as the flesh is firm, flakey, 
 and white. They are caught in immense numbers in prin- 
 cipally all the great lakes, some upwards of forty pounds 
 weight, large numbers of which are salted and barrelled for 
 the winter's use, and sent to the large cities. 
 
 €fray pike perch appears to be another variety of 
 the above. Those that I saw, on several occasions, were 
 quite different in color, a little slimmer, and a more delicately- 
 formed fish ; but perhaps they were poor, and the color 
 changed from different waters or food. I, however, have 
 never seen them so large and fine as the former. 
 
 Oblong flounder, fluke, or spotted flounder. 
 — These, one of the varieties of flat-fish, are usually found 
 large and plentiful in their season, and are commonly known 
 among fishermen by the name of " fluke." They are quite 
 oblong in shape, the color of a dark olive-green, mottled 
 with dark and light spots, and white underneath. The 
 mouth is large and oblique, and opens on the left side, 
 while the eyes are on the right side — that is, if you stand at 
 the tail and look towards the head, when the back is up. 
 In season in the months from August to November, and 
 average about two and a half pounds. 
 
 On the 13th of October, 1864, I found four varieties of 
 the flat-fish in Jefferson Market, viz. : oblong flounder, long- 
 toothed flounder, spotted turbot, and New York flat-fish, all 
 nearly of one size. They were all nicely fried, and my pref- 
 erence was with the oblong flounder, as being the best table- 
 fish, the flesh being close, firm, and well flavored ; it, how- 
 ever, was a young specimen. 
 
 A remarkable incident occurred in the taking of one of 
 these fish, at the foot of Twelfth-street, North Eiver, Sep- 
 
 14 
 
210 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 tember 28, 1864. The fluke was caught by a young butcher, 
 who perceived something like an eel partially hanging 
 from his mouth, when he came to take the hook out. A 
 friend of mine happened near by, who took the fish and 
 cut out a small garter- snake, about eighteen inches in 
 length, part of which was decayed. It is supposed that the 
 snake had been crossing the water, near the Jersey shore, 
 and was snapped up by this fish, or had been first killed 
 and thrown into the water. 
 
 Toothed flat-fish, or summer flounder.— This 
 fish is generally known by the common name of flounder, 
 although some call all the varieties of flat-fish " flounders." 
 De Kay, however, to designate them, the varieties with the 
 eyes on the right side he terms flounders, and those with 
 them on the left he calls flat-fish. 
 
 The color of this fish is of a reddish brown, with numer- 
 ous small rusty-colored spots on the body, and white under- 
 neath. The flesh is well-flavored, and they are always found 
 plentiful in the summer months, weighing from one pound 
 to ten. The large fish, however, are not so plentiful as the 
 preceding ; the small ones are good pan-fish. The fisher- 
 men occasionally skin and bone {hese (and other) fish, when 
 they are known as " fillets of flounders," and are much more 
 delicate in this manner. 
 
 Pickerel (known in Philadelphia as " pike," and in Vir- 
 ginia as "jack"). — This fresh-water fish, when in good con- 
 dition, is very firm-fleshed, sweet, and well flavored, best in 
 the winter and spring months, from September until March, 
 and generally found quite plenty in our markets. They are 
 quite a lengthy and a square-backed fish, with one fin on 
 the back near the tail. Their upper jaw has somewhat the 
 appearance of a duck's bill, and the eyes are quite small 
 and crafty-looking. The color on the back is of a bluish- 
 gray, and sometimes of a greenish cast. The sides are also 
 of a muddy yellow, and quite full of dark irregular marks. 
 
 Another variety of this fish, known by the New York 
 fishermen as "pike," is described as a short, thick-bodied 
 
FISH. 211 
 
 fish, rather more spotted than the preceding one, and of a 
 lighter bluish-gray, usually found on their stands, above 
 ten pounds weight. I have heard of pickerel being taken 
 above sixty pounds. It is also asserted that they will eat 
 any thing they can master ; and three have been taken on 
 one hook, in their greediness to devour each other. The 
 finest of the variety, called pike, are taken from the Sauger- 
 ties Creek, which leads into the waters of the Hudson. 
 They, however, are quite scarce, and, when found here, they 
 sell at an extra price. 
 
 The third variety of this fish is called the " brook pick- 
 erel," which are smaller ; they also have a shorter head, and 
 the marks on the side run across the body in a regular 
 manner, but quite clouded. The lower (or ventral) fins are 
 usually quite red ; the flesh is also not so delicate as the 
 other varieties, being quite soft, and sometimes it has a 
 groundy taste. Many fine pickerel are brought from Long 
 Island ; but they are found in all the fresh-water streams, 
 lakes, creeks, ponds, etc., through the States. 
 
 A curious incident of the pickerel is found in the Post 
 Boy, March 14, 1765, in the London news, which reads — 
 "A large pike was caught in the v Biver Ouse, which weighed 
 upwards of twenty-eight pounds, and was sold to a gentle- 
 man in the neighborhood for a guinea. As the cookmaid 
 was gutting the fish, she found, to her great astonishment, 
 a watch, with a black ribbon and two steel seals annext, in 
 the body of the pike. The gentleman's butler, upon open- 
 ing the watch, found, the maker's name, Thomas Green- 
 field, Burnham, Norfolk. Upon strict inquiry, it appears 
 that the said watch was sold to a gentleman's servant, who 
 was unfortunately drowned about six weeks ago, in his way 
 to Cambridge, between this place and South Ferry. The 
 watch is still in possession of Mr. John Eoberts, at the 
 " Cross-keys," in Littleport, for inspection of the public." 
 
 The Trenton Federalist has the following curious incident 
 under the head of " Singular. — A person in the neighbor- 
 hood of Crosswicks, Burlington County, having set a gill- 
 
212 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 net for fish in Crosswicks Creek, on going to examine it, 
 found a large hawk seated on the water over the net. 
 Coming near the place, he also fonnd a pike (pickerel) 
 caught in the net, which had seized one foot of the hawk in 
 his mouth, holding him to the spot. Thus secured, both 
 hawk and pike were taken by the fisherman. On examin- 
 ing the pike, which was entangled near the cork-line, it was 
 perceived that the hawk had struck it with one of his talons 
 in the back, upon which it appeared that the pike had 
 seized him by the other and held him fast. The pike was 
 of a small size, the hawk quite large, measuring three feet 
 nine inches from tip to tip of each wing." 
 
 Kirby's "Bridgewater Treatise," speaking of the lon- 
 gevity of fishes, says : " A pike was taken in 1754, at Kaiser's 
 lantern, which had a ring fastened to the gill-covers, from 
 which it appeared to have been put in the pond of that 
 castle by order of Frederick II., in 1437, a period of two 
 hundred and sixty-seven years. It is described as being 
 nineteen feet long, and weighed three hundred and fifty 
 pounds. 
 
 White-fish, or lake-shad. — This excellent fish is 
 taken in great abundance from the large lakes and rivers. 
 Their general appearance is somewhat like the shad, with 
 a very small head and thick body, color of a bluish-gray 
 on the back, lighter on the sides, and white underneath. 
 When taken fresh out of the water, they have a beautiful, 
 bright, pearly lustre, and show several of the colors of the 
 rainbow. Those caught in the clear, cold waters, and per- 
 fectly fresh, are considered the best flavored ; and it is said 
 that persons can live longer on white-fish than on any other 
 fresh-water fish. They are found in large quantities in the 
 salted or cured state here, but fresh only in the winter and 
 spring months, weighing usually from two to four pounds, 
 although some have been taken above sixteen pounds. 
 
 Seines of an enormous size are used at Wellington Beach, 
 on Lake Ontario. I read of one being two hundred and 
 twenty-two rods long, and about twenty-nine feet deep, 
 
FISH. 213 
 
 covering an area of four acres. In the month of July, 1857, 
 at one haul, forty-five thousand seven hundred white-fish 
 were brought to the beach ; and, for nine consecutive days, 
 the smallest haul was eighteen thousand. They are usually 
 packed at the average of one hundred and thirty to the 
 barrel. "About the year 1816 or '17," says Furman, in his 
 notes, " the white-fish from the lakes was held in very low 
 estimation in Ohio and New York. A merchant in Detroit, 
 in 1818, sent about one hundred barrels of them to Cincin- 
 nati, as an experiment ; but no purchasers could be found, 
 and he lost the whole of them. At that time white-fish 
 were worth about three dollars per barrel ; and boat-loads 
 of them were frequently sold at three or four dollars per 
 hundred, and six or seven dollars per barrel ; and there were 
 orders in Detroit from Ohio and the western towns of New 
 York for thousands of barrels of white-fish. In 1842, they 
 sold for eight dollars per barrel at Albany and New York." 
 
 The Commercial Advertiser, December 10, 1824, has the 
 following account : " White-fish, as we have been told by 
 an old inhabitant, were first taken with nets in the Detroit 
 river about fifty years ago. It is said that a British lieu- 
 tenant, who was stationed at that time at this post, first 
 discovered the movements of the white-fish, and suggested 
 the idea of taking them with nets. He was one night on a 
 visit to the sentinels, and was told by one who was stationed 
 near the shore that he had heard at times a rushing noise 
 in the water. The lieutenant waited a few minutes, and 
 had the pleasure of hearing the rushing, which, as he was 
 somewhat acquainted with fishing, he knew to be caused by 
 an immense number of fish rising to the surface of the 
 water. A small net was immediately got in readiness, and 
 such was the number caught, that, from four dollars, the 
 price soon fell to four shillings a hundred." 
 
 Weak-fish, or salt-water trout.— This fish is also 
 called " squeteague," and " chequet," in the Eastern States. 
 When fresh caught it is excellent, delicate, and well-tasted ; 
 but it is not a firm-fleshed fish, and, when kept some time, 
 
214 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 its flesh becomes very soft and loses its flavor. It is best 
 broiled. It is said it derives its name from a tender or 
 weak mouth, as it frequently escapes by the tearing out of 
 the hook. Color of a bluish-gray, with speckled back and 
 sides, belly white, fins yellow, and the under jaw or chin 
 quite red. Weight from a half-pound to eight pounds. I 
 saw one of just fourteen and a half pounds weight in Jeffer- 
 son Market, and have heard of their weighing twenty-two 
 pounds. Their average weight, however, is about one 
 pound. In season from May to October, but best in Sep- 
 tember and October. 
 
 Codfish. — This fish is quite extensively known, and 
 always to be found in our markets. When fresh, its flesh is 
 white, firm, flakey, and very good. When salted and dried, 
 it affords a substantial, wholesome, and cheap article of 
 diet, for which a substitute could not readily be procured. 
 Codfish which have been caught in February, or in early 
 spring months, in the deep water, are split and slightly 
 salted, after which they are laid in piles in a cool, dark 
 place, and covered with salt hay, eel-grass, or sedge, then 
 put under a heavy weight, for two or three months ; then 
 again, to finish the process of dunning, they should be re- 
 piled and repacked, and stand as long again, which, in the 
 end, will change them all to a clear dun color, and also their 
 name to " dun-fish." 
 
 On the fish-stand there often appears codfish of various 
 colors or markings ; some will be full of streaks, light and 
 dark, many of the usual gray color, others of a greenish- 
 gray, and others again of a reddish-brown ; the fishermen 
 say this is caused by their being taken in different waters, 
 and apply the names of rock-cod, shoal-cod, etc. 
 
 They are generally found alive from October to May, 
 after this time they come in boxes, packed in ice, generally 
 from the " Banks," Nantucket, etc., with the heads off and 
 drawn. General weight from two to ten pounds, and often 
 exceeds sixty. Instances are noticed where they have been 
 caught weighing above one hundred pounds. Storer speaks 
 
FISH. 215 
 
 of a " Mr. Anthony Holbrook, a fishmonger in the Quincy 
 Market, informs me he saw taken in the spring of the year 
 1807, at Newledge, sixty miles southeast of Portland, Maine, 
 a codfish that weighed one hundred and seven pounds, and, 
 to use his own words, upon its head were barnacles the size 
 of the thumb." There are several others of great weight 
 which appear worthy of notice here. In the New York 
 Journal, etc., April 3d, 1793 : "A codfish was lately sold in 
 the Newburyport Market which weighed ninety-eight pounds. 
 The length of this fish was five feet and a half ; its girth, at 
 the thickest part, three feet four inches." In the month of 
 February, 1823, the Marblehead fishermen sent a codfish, 
 weighing eighty-four pounds, as a present to John Q. Adams, 
 the Secretary of State. The fish was frozen with great care, 
 in order to preserve it, incased in a box of ice, and transmitted 
 with a letter from the donors. Then from the Daily Adver- 
 tiser, June 14, 1827, we read : " An extraordinary large cod- 
 fish was caught off Portsmouth, N. H., in the month of June 
 last (1827), weighing ninety-seven pounds." The Lynn 
 News, of January, 1857, also says : " The largest cod we 
 ever heard of was taken last week by Captain Nathan Blan- 
 chard, of Swampscott ; it weighed ninety-four pounds un- 
 dressed, seventy-eight dressed, and was sold in Faneuil 
 Hall Market, Boston." 
 
 Several parts of the codfish are also used when properly 
 prepared : the tongue is separated from the head when the 
 fish is first caught ; this, with the air-bladder, or sack, are 
 .called sounds and tongues, which are cured and found on 
 sale. They are highly nutritious, being almost entirely pure 
 gelatine. The liver is principally reserved by the fisher- 
 men, for the sake of the large quantity of cod-liver oil which 
 is extracted from them by heat and pressure. 
 
 Codfish, no doubt, is one of the best fish known to make 
 the excellent fisherman's dish called " chowder," and for the 
 following preparation — which I think is the best one I ever 
 ate — I am indebted to the late Michael Burnham, Esq., bj 
 whom it was sent to me : 
 
216 THE MAKKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 Fish-chowder. — Take a codfish about six or seven pounds, 
 cut in slices about one inch thick ; take six or seven medium- 
 sized potatoes and cut in slices ; take one pound salt pork, 
 cut in slices, and fried brown ; when sufficiently done, take 
 out the pork from the pot with one half the fat. Now put 
 in a layer of fish, then some of the potatoes and pork, with 
 some pilot-bread ; and so on, alternately, until all is in the 
 pot. Pour over the whole a quart of water and one pint of 
 milk ; add salt and pepper to your taste, and boil twenty 
 minutes. A few onions improve it for those who are fond 
 of them. 
 
 P. S. — To the above I add one hundred clams or oysters, 
 in layers with the rest, and a half tumbler of port or a tum- 
 bler of claret wine two or three minutes before taking off 
 the fire, stirring it up well. 
 
 In 1792, the following was published as a " Curious fact. 
 — At the first discovery of the northern continent of Amer- 
 ica, few or no codfish were found to the southward of the 
 Banks of Newfoundland and Sable Island. About twenty- 
 five or thirty years ago (1760) they were first discovered 
 off Sandy Hook, in the vicinity of New York. It has been 
 observed that ever since that time they have gradually be- 
 come more and more plenty on the fishing grounds off 
 the Neversink, in six, seven, and eight fathoms of water, 
 and perhaps equally so many miles further eastward. The 
 present season has afforded an abundance hitherto unknown 
 in that port. Within these few years they begin to be found 
 off and about the capes of Delaware Bay, though in com- 
 paratively small quantities, and, it is said, two or three have 
 been caught last year about Chinagoteague Shoals, in lati- 
 tude thirty-eight, on the coast of Maryland. From these 
 facts it would seem that the codfish is gradually progressing 
 southward, and may, perhaps, in time, be caught along the 
 whole extent of coast belonging to the United States. It is 
 observed by coasting vessels that mackerel are, in the same 
 manner, advancing more to the southward than formerly. 
 We may conclude, from hence, that the Banks of Newfound- 
 
FISH. 217 
 
 land are the original habitation of the codfish, from whence, 
 on account of their prodigious increase, they are annually 
 pushing out colonies in every direction where sustenance 
 can possibly be found." 
 
 Haddock. — This fish has something of the appearance 
 of codfish, as to size and color, with a black line running 
 along each side from the gills to the tail. The bones in the 
 head are more prominent and the under jaw shorter. It 
 appears in season with the cod, and is found very good in 
 the months of November and December ; then again in June 
 and July, when the flesh is more compact and the flavor ex- 
 cellent, but I think not equal to the codfish. 
 
 " Something curious." Captain Stetson informs us that on 
 Wednesday last, while on a fishing party, off Cohasset 
 Kocks, he caught a haddock, and upon opening it for the 
 purpose of cooking, he found in the stomach three hundred 
 and forty dollars in old continental money, new emission ! 
 The paper was formed into a roll and was but little injured. 
 — Boston papers, also Commercial Advertiser, July 28, 1804. 
 
 Halibut. — This is one of the best large cut fish that we 
 have for the table, and is seldom found out of our markets. 
 When placed on the fish-stands for sale, it is always cut as 
 it is wanted. Its flesh is pearly white and very nutritious; 
 and that taken from a fish weighing from fifty to seventy-five 
 pounds is considered the best. The flesh from the large 
 coarse-grained fish is dry and tasteless ; and that of a 
 yellowish cast, without the pearly brightness, is apt to 
 be strong and unwholesome. The nape or thin flank part 
 is an excellent piece, being usually fat and juicy, for boiling. 
 Halibut is brought principally from Boston, and is received 
 here alive in the months of March, April (when it is consid- 
 ered best), and May ; after this time and through the warm 
 weather it comes packed in ice, until the cold weather com- 
 mences, after which, if not found through the winter, it is in 
 consequence of severe cold weather or storms, which ren- 
 ders it hazardous to fish for them at sea. In a cured state, 
 pickled, salted, and smoked, they are also found in our mar- 
 
218 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 kets. A very large halibut was taken by a Gloucester fish- 
 erman in 1860, which weighed two hundred and forty-five 
 pounds. Another, still larger, is found noticed in the Amer- 
 ican Weekly Mercury, June 22d, 1732, in the following lan- 
 guage : "Our fishermen say they have lately chatch'd an 
 holybote weighing three hundred weight." In the attempt 
 to take a very large halibut, the Portland Argus (August, 
 1847) thus notices a "Narrow Escape. — The two 'fishing 
 women,' somewhat celebrated on this coast, reside on this 
 island (Mt. Deseret, Maine). One of them came near being 
 carried to the bottom by a halibut a short time since. As 
 is their custom, one sat in the bow and the other in the 
 stern, with the little skiff nearly filled with fish. The 
 woman in the bow of the boat hooked a very large halibut, 
 and called her associate to help ; but she dared not leave 
 her seat for fear of sinking their loaded boat. The fish 
 was allowed to run to the bottom two or three times to 
 get worried, and then drawn alongside to be killed and 
 drawn in. It seems he did not like to be mastered by 
 a lone woman, and resisted. In the affray, a large cod- 
 hook attached to the line was drawn into her hand, and 
 then came the danger. The unsubdued monster, being in 
 his native element, now set out for the bottom again ; but 
 the heroine, not wishing to accompany him, clung to the 
 boat. She was drawn nearly overboard, but before losing 
 her hold of the boat the line providentially parted, and he 
 thus became disengaged. To this fact alone she owes the 
 preservation of her life. The fish was probably from six to 
 nine feet in length. The ' fishing women' follow their busi- 
 ness closely, and are very successful ; nothing will induce 
 them to change their employment. They are mother and 
 daughter, the mother being over sixty years of age." 
 
 Black (fresh- water) bass, black perch. — This is a 
 fine fresh-water fish, when taken from the cold, clear waters 
 of the lakes, and is well known to our fresh-water fishing 
 sportsmen. They are taken from all of the Western lakes, 
 and rivers that lead to them. In size and shape they some- 
 
FISH. 219 
 
 what resemble the salt-water black-fish, but shorter, a 
 rounder back, and the under jaw longer. The color is of a 
 dusky bluish-black, and the under parts of a bluish- white. 
 I have taken many in Cayuga Lake, from one to two and a 
 half pounds weight ; average about two pounds, and are 
 found in our markets scattering from October to April. 
 
 The Commercial Advertiser, September 8, 1820, states, 
 that " a fish was caught with a hook, in the outlet of Seneca 
 Lake, on Tuesday last, by Horace Teall, called a black-bass, 
 in which was found a copper, or half -penny token, bearing 
 date, 1815, and the size of a cent." 
 
 Sea lamprey, commonly called lamprey-eels. — 
 These fish are usually taken in large numbers, in the months 
 of March, April, May, and June, but are seldom found 
 plentiful in the public markets, in consequence of their not 
 being much sought after, as their flesh is not generally ad- 
 mired, except by a few country people and foreigners. 
 Large quantities, however, are salted and packed in barrels, 
 then sent abroad. It is said that stewed lampreys were a 
 dish once held in high estimation in England, and that 
 "King Henry the First" died of a surfeit, eating too heartily 
 of this then favorite dainty. My experience, however, in 
 the eating of this fish was rather unfavorable, as I found its 
 flesh insipid and dry eating, dark-colored, and without a 
 hard bone. 
 
 The color of this fish is of a brown olive, marbled mix- 
 ture, fins red and yellow, a bluish tail, and with seven 
 breathing holes along both sides of the neck, and possesses 
 very little tenacity of life — much less than the common eel. 
 
 In the months of May and June the lampreys are con- 
 sidered the best, when large quantities are taken up the 
 Hudson Eiver, and especially in the Croton and other 
 rivers. Doctor M. Beardsley says he has taken them in large 
 numbers in the Housatonic, at New Milford, near the falls, 
 with a long pole, having a sharp, crooked hook. When 
 they are seen in the water, sucking fast of the rocks and 
 stones, then, by running the pole down so as to bring the 
 
220 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 hook just under their bodies, when a jerk up hooks them 
 fast, and they are hauled out. In this manner thousands are 
 taken, and salted down ior a part of the family provisions. 
 
 The Canadian Gourant (1831) thus notices a " Curious 
 Occurrence. — On Wednesday last a large sturgeon was ob- 
 served to leap from the water into a canoe lying at the island 
 in the port, opposite the foot of St. Joseph-street. Im- 
 mediately means were taken to secure the fish, which, when 
 taken, was found to have two lampreys, about seven inches 
 in length, sticking to its body — one on the top of the head 
 and the other on the insertion of the large fin next the gills. 
 There cannot be a doubt but the fish, in its agonies and 
 efforts to get rid of the lampreys, sprang out of the water 
 with such violence as to precipitate it into the canoe in its 
 descent. The peculiar construction of the mouths of the 
 lampreys show how powerfully they can attach themselves 
 to any substance, and seem expressly constructed to give 
 them a powerful suction ; nor is the rapacity of these fishes 
 less than their power of laying hold of their prey, for when 
 kept some time out of the water, and again placed near the 
 sturgeon, they seized it a second time with much eagerness. 
 The sturgeon measured three feet eight inches ; his little 
 tormentors not a sixth part of his length, nor a sixteenth of 
 his weight." 
 
 The sword-fish is a very large, round-boclied fish, and, 
 like the halibut, is seen for sale, cut in pieces, on the fish- 
 stands. Its flesh is fine-grained, tender, and well-tasted, 
 and looks much the color of veal. Considered very whole- 
 some, either in the fresh or salted state. It is usually sold 
 at a less price per pound than the halibut. In season in 
 the months of June, July, and August. Its color is of the 
 deepest bluish-black upon the back, gradually growing 
 lighter underneath, the belly being of ashy white, or tar- 
 nished silvery shade. They vary in size and weight — from 
 eight to twelve feet in length, of which the sword consti- 
 tutes about one-third, and from one hundred and fifty to 
 four hundred and fifty pounds weight. 
 
HSH. 221 
 
 The New York Sun, July 7, 1855, says : " A sword-fish, 
 fourteen feet nine inches in length, and weighing five hun- 
 dred and thirty-seven and a half pounds, was caught off 
 Block Island,^ by the crew of' a pilot-boat, and carried into 
 New Bedford." 
 
 The Commercial Advertiser, of June 25, 1817, also says : 
 "A sword-fish was caught off the Hook, on the 17th inst., 
 brought to our market, and sold in pieces, at two shillings 
 the pound. The sword, tail, and fins were purchased by 
 Enoch Johnson, Esq., and by him presented to the Lyceum.'" 
 
 " This fish" (Dr. Samuel L. Mitchell says) " appeared to 
 have been twelve feet long, and five feet round. I agree 
 with you, that the flesh is excellent eating. The broiled 
 relish prepared for me at Mr. Eairchild s, was in reality very 
 fine. 
 
 " My friend, John Banny, Esq., informs me that another of 
 the same species was taken by one of the pilots near Sandy 
 Hook (as this one of yours was), in the year 1791, and ex- 
 hibited to the people of this city. That sword-fish is re- 
 ported to have been sixteen feet in length." 
 
 The Royal Gazette, July 27, 1782, contains a notice, " To 
 the Cukious. — A most surprising fish of an enormous size, 
 called a sea-warrior, armed with a weapon or broadsword, 
 upwards of four feet long, projecting from his head, and so 
 sharp, that in a few minutes it will kill the largest whale ; 
 it is by far the greatest curiosity ever seen in this part of 
 the world. To be shown this day and to-morrow at Mr. 
 Jeroleman's Punch House, at the tea-water pump (New 
 Tork). Grown persons, one shilling ; and children sixpence." 
 
 The Pennsylvania Gazette, October 3, 1751, contains the 
 following attack of a sword-fish (in an extract from a letter 
 dated Boston, September 19). " In our passage from the 
 Main to St. Eustatia, on the 26th of June, in the latitude of 
 15 and longitude 61, about eleven o'clock at night, was 
 struck by a sword-fish on our starboard bow, which run 
 his sword through our outside plank, and a timber of ten 
 inches thick, and ceiling, and into the hold ten inches, and 
 
 / 
 
222 THE MABKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 broke his horn off, and left it into the hold ten inches, which 
 caused our vessel to have four feet and two inches of water 
 in the hold ; but by our two pumps cleared her. We reckon 
 that the horn (sword) went through fourteen inches and a 
 half of solid oak." 
 
 " The schooner Sarah Millner, of Kingston, in Jamaica, 
 was, on her voyage from thence to this port, struck by a 
 sword-fish, about twelve o'clock in the night, being out three 
 days. The sword penetrated through solid timber thirteen 
 inches thick, and protruding within the vessel upwards of 
 seven inches, passed into a tierce of coffee. He stuck until 
 seven o'clock the next morning, when he broke away, being 
 severely wounded by strokes of the harpoon. The schooner 
 being hove down yesterday, the sword was found and ex- 
 tracted." — Commercial Advertiser, November 10, 1809. 
 
 An interesting description of the catching of sword-fish, 
 is given by a correspondent at Edgartown, Martha's "Vine- 
 yard, to the New York Tribune, in July, 1855. He says, 
 " one of his companions, whom he was fishing with, dis- 
 covered a fish to the leeward of the boat ; headed for him at 
 once, while his companions commenced to ' clear away' for 
 a fight. Dan's object seemed to be to sail ' head-on' to 
 him, assigning to me as a reason that the fish could not see 
 ahead. After various manoeuvres he had succeeded in 
 bringing the boat in range, when he resigned the tiller to 
 his companion and went forward to the bow, taking with 
 him a harpoon. The sword-fish was coming along at a 
 rapid rate upon the top of the water, and I was beginning 
 to fear the consequences of a collision. However, I kept 
 still, and when the fish was within a rod of the boat, Dan 
 made a demonstration which caused the fish to 'wear 
 around,' at which moment Dan hurled the harpoon at him 
 with surprising precision and force, taking him through the 
 neck. Of course there was a line fast to the harpoon, which 
 ran over the side with great rapidity, for the fish, as soon 
 as wounded, dived down perpendicularly.. The line was 
 made fast to an empty keg, headed up, which was now 
 
ush. 223 
 
 thrown overboard, and we started off, to avoid a too close 
 acquaintance with the wounded and excited creature for the 
 present. I should think it was full ten minutes before he 
 again appeared upon the surface, and when he did he went 
 through the water with astonishing velocity (Dan said at 
 the rate of twenty five knots), dragging with him the keg, 
 which was most of the time under water. This rate of speed 
 soon exhausted him, however, and he finally lay still upon 
 the surface. On this we steered for the keg and took it on 
 board, and then cautiously approached the fish. When 
 near enough, Dan dealt him two well-directed blows with a 
 lance (or spade as he termed it) upon his back-bone, which 
 caused him to struggle convulsively for a few moments, 
 when he was taken alongside and rolled on board. In this 
 way we succeeded in capturing four of these monsters, the 
 smallest of which weighed about one hundred pounds, and 
 the largest about three hundred and fifty pounds." 
 
 Sturgeon. — The flesh of this large peculiar-looking 
 fish, when found in our markets for sale, is always with the 
 skin off, and cut up as the halibut. The young fat fish are 
 considered the best, when its flesh has a light red or "beefy" 
 appearance and the fat of a pale yellow color. Its flesh is 
 considered wholesome, and, when properly prepared, it is 
 really good eating. Some soak the flesh in scalding water 
 long enough to take away the fatty substance, which is 
 strong if the fish is large ; then cut it in steaks and fry it, 
 when it tastes much like veal cutlets. It is much better to 
 roast or bake, than to boil ; in fact, sturgeon-eaters seldom 
 boil it. Many also prefer it salted and smoked, when to be 
 had in that state. In season all through the summer 
 months, when it is taken in the North Kiver. They com- 
 mence to take them about the middle of April and continue 
 until the 1st of September, and are principally of that 
 variety called the sharp-nosed sturgeon, ranging in length 
 from four to nine feet, and in weight from one hundred to 
 above three hundred and fifty pounds. 
 
 There appears an account of a sturgeon caught in 1855, 
 
224: THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 a short distance below Stockton, California, which weighed 
 three hundred and fifty-four pounds, and measured nine feet 
 eight inches in length. 
 
 A brisk trade is done in sturgeon meat up the Hudson 
 River, and more particularly at Albany, where no doubt, 
 from its great plentifulness, cheapness, and peculiar color 
 of the flesh, it became known with the name of " Albany 
 Beef." At Philadelphia, also, I saw a great number of 
 colored men engaged in the trade of catching, skinning, and 
 disposing — always in bulk — by the fish or piece (never by 
 weight), great numbers of this fish. 
 
 The Commercial Advertiser, of 1822, notices an " Extra- 
 ordinary Haul. — Some men who were engaged in fishing for 
 shad in the river Delaware, opposite Tinicum Island, drew 
 up one hundred and eleven sturgeon at one haul." 
 
 In the north of Europe the flesh of the sturgeon furnishes 
 acceptable ' food to a great many persons, while its air- 
 bladder is converted into isinglass, and its roe into caviare. 
 Dr. Smith in his work on Fish says : " During the long Lent 
 of the Greek Church, and the weeks and fast-days, exceed- 
 ing in the aggregate four months, sturgeon is the principal 
 food of all European Russia. It was calculated in 1794, 
 that 1,760,405 sturgeon yielded 4,366,800 pounds of caviare." 
 This caviare is the roe of the sturgeon or other large fish, 
 prepared by salting and pressing, and was considered a 
 great delicacy when used with roast meats. There is also 
 a very good oil extracted from the offal parts, which is 
 used for the purposes of light." 
 
 Pickled Sturgeon, appears to have been introduced 
 in this country at an early day, perhaps before 1750, 
 although I find no account of it until some four years after, 
 when the New York Weekly Post-Boy (September 23, 1754) 
 says : " Edward Broadfield is arrived in this city from 
 Trenton, and brought a quantity of pickled sturgeon, and 
 warranted to keep the year round. There is at the house 
 of Scotch Johnny [for many years " Scotch Johnny" or John 
 Thompson, kept the " Crown and Thistle," near the White 
 
fish. 225 
 
 Hall stairs, N. T.], a keg opened, where all gentlemen may 
 have an opportunity of seeing and tasting said fish." Some 
 ten years after, the Gazette, April 22, 1765, says : " The North 
 American sturgeon is growing in repute every day, so that 
 it is likely to be in great demand in a short time." I should, 
 however, be inclined to believe that it never became much 
 in demand in New York, either pickled or otherwise, as but 
 few advertisements notice it until after the revolution, when 
 one is found which presents many claims for its general 
 adoption. This is found in the Packet, October 25, 1784 : 
 " Sturgeon put up in spices, equal if not superior in quality 
 to what is done in Europe, no pains or expense being 
 neglected in curing them. This fish, in the way it is put 
 up, is reckoned a genteel dish through many parts of 
 Europe ; and as it is ready fit for eating without any 
 addition, renders it very convenient to masters of vessels, 
 who by long voyages, storms, etc., are deprived of an op- 
 portunity of cooking victuals. Orders are received at Mr. 
 Bradford's coffee-house, where samples, as they are put up, 
 are left." 
 
 This jumping fish is also often seen, by almost every 
 passenger in the summer season, when going up the North 
 Biver, leaping clear out of the water some eight or ten feet ; 
 and occasionally they not only make their last leap, but 
 create some excitement. 
 
 The New York Evening Post, in August, 1836, notices 
 " An Incident. — A party of ten persons, of both sexes, was 
 crossing the Hudson from Saugerties to Tivoli in a little 
 boat rowed by two of the party. As they reached the 
 middle of the river, a large sturgeon sprang from the water 
 in front of them and threw his huge length into the bottom 
 of the boat, passing directly between the feet of the two 
 gentlemen who sat foremost, and laying himself exactly in 
 the middle under the seats. Great was the surprise and 
 confusion; but one of the gentlemen immediately caught 
 the floundering fish by the tail, and tied it fast with the 
 boat's painter. The creature in the mean time uttered the 
 
 15 
 
226 THE MAKKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 most plaintive sound, moaning with a noise much like that 
 of a cow. It was taken to Tivoli, where it was found to 
 measure eight feet and a half in lengthy and to weigh one 
 hundred and fifty pounds. It was cut up and given to the 
 workmen of a foundry on the eastern bank of the river, who 
 made an excellent supper on this " Albany Beef." 
 
 A similar circumstance is shown in the Daily Times, 25th 
 of July, 1854, which happened in Gardener's Bay, L. I. 
 " Three persons sat fishing in a boat, one of whom, seated 
 in the bow, was knocked overboard by being struck with 
 a sturgeon jumping out of the water near where he sat. 
 He was injured in the shoulder, and cut in the face, and 
 came near being drowned." 
 
 Another more singular circumstance is noticed in the 
 New York Sun, September 3, 1856 : " Captain Simon, of the 
 sloop Science, found a sturgeon floundering about his cabin, 
 which he supposed must have jumped through the stern 
 window, when near Caldwell's Landing, nearly opposite 
 Peekskill, North Kiver." 
 
 Then, in the Commercial Advertiser, of July 26, 1838, we 
 find noticed a singular death, which occurred in that month 
 in the following manner : " A sloop was sailing up the North 
 Kiver, when a large sturgeon leaped out of the water and 
 alighted upon the deck. All hands immediately busied 
 themselves about securing the stranger ; and one of the 
 men being near the side of the vessel, and to the leeward, 
 was knocked or fell overboard with the fish, and was 
 drowned." 
 
 Fall herring, or shad herring" (also called "wee- 
 sick" in Connecticut). — This fish has some of the appear- 
 ance of a shad, but of a darker color ; on the back it is of a 
 bluish-green, with dark-colored spots on the sides, and 
 also with an appearance of spotted stripes running along 
 the back and sides. They are usually taken, with the 
 striped bass, in the months from July to December. Their 
 average weight is about a pound and a half. A fine speci- 
 men was sent to me on November 22, 1864, which weighed, 
 
fish. 227 
 
 plump, three and a quarter pounds, measuring in length 
 twenty and a quarter inches, and six inches in depth. It 
 was very fat, the flesh not so white as the shad, nor was it 
 so sweet, having a little of the herring flavor, and also very 
 troublesome to eat in consequence of the many wiry bones. 
 As it lay on my stall, many pronounced it a shad. 
 
 The different varieties of the herring, like the shad, 
 mackerel, etc., when taken from the water, die immediately. 
 Most all kinds of herring, when taken in large quantities, 
 are cured and smoked, and in that way they are often found 
 for sale. When variously prepared they have been esteemed 
 as an article of food from the most remote antiquity. One 
 Guillaume Beuchel, a native of Brabant, in the fourteenth 
 century, discovered a mode of pickling them, which was 
 considered so remarkable, and of so much importance, that 
 the Emperor Charles the Fifth, one hundred and fifty years 
 afterwards, honored his grave with his royal person, and 
 ate pickled herring on the green grass that waved above his 
 bones. "By the corporation charter of the city of Nor- 
 wich, England, the mayor has to present to the king, an- 
 nually, a herring-pie. This custom is necessarily practised 
 up to the present day. The pie has a standing crust, 
 modelled in exact representation of Norwich Castle, and 
 filled with herring." 
 
 The Burlington herring have also had quite a 
 reputation for the table. Large quantities were caught at 
 Dunk's Ferry, says the Burlington Gazette (of 1845), many of 
 which were cured by a Mr. Mitchell, at his establishment in 
 Burlington. His method for curing was as follows : " The 
 fish are brought to Mr. Mitchell directly from the nets — all 
 Delaware Biver fish, and therefore perfectly fresh. They 
 are then cleaned of scales and thrown into pickle, where 
 they remain some hours, whence they are taken and strung 
 on sticks containing a dozen, allowed to dry, and then sus- 
 pended in the smoke-house, where a choking fog is raised 
 by means of burning sawdust ; and, after a week of such 
 fumigation, they are taken down, packed in boxes, and are 
 
228 THE MAKKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 ready for market. There is a peculiar flavor imparted to 
 the Burlington herring by the pickle in which they are 
 soaked previous to smoking." 
 
 Clear-nosed ray. — This variety of the ray is usually 
 found quite abundant, but always cut up, on some of the 
 fish-stands, when it is often sold under the name of skate. 
 The parts sold are only the fleshy side-fins, some of which 
 appear of different forms and colors, showing that they were 
 taken off from the different varieties of the ray and skate. 
 This variety is of a brownish-gray on the back, covered 
 with numerous irregular-shaped dark spots; head almost 
 round, with a small, thin, semi-transparent nose, which feels 
 like a tough jelly ; with small eyes, and a double, and some- 
 times a treble, row of prickles along the middle of the back, 
 down the sides of the tail. The tail is long, tapering, flat 
 beneath, and round above. The flesh is not generally ad- 
 mired, although some foreigners prefer it to either the 
 sword-fish or sturgeon. It, however, improves by keeping, 
 as it becomes more tender and less insipid. A small one, 
 of some ten pounds, was sent to me, of which I prepared 
 the parts to eat; and, although I had it cooked from a 
 French receipt, yet I found it insipid and glutinous. Per- 
 haps the condiments were not so plentifully used as they 
 should have been ; but I think I should prefer some other 
 kind of fish. 
 
 One of our fishermen, in Washington Market, deals very 
 extensively in this, as well as many other varieties of fish, 
 some of which are not much thought of by other fishermen. 
 The fleshy fins of this ray usually weigh from two to five 
 pounds, and are generally found in season from October to 
 April. There is another variety, called 
 
 Spotted ray, of which I saw a small specimen at the 
 Catherine Market, in July, 1864, weighing, perhaps, about 
 four pounds. The head or nose was quite pointed, and the 
 body covered with dark spots. The price of fish was very 
 high that morning. Eels sold at twenty-five cents per pound ; 
 fresh blue-fish, fifteen cents ; codfish and porgees, ten cents. 
 
fish. 229 
 
 This fish, however, was offered, as he lay, for the whole of 
 fifteen cents, and no buyers at that while I was there. An- 
 other variety, called 
 
 Whip-sting ray, are often taken around the harbor 
 of New York. One was taken in the North Kiver, at the 
 Woodlawn Dock, in 1852, which I supposed would weigh 
 fifty pounds, with a common bass-pole and line ; however, 
 it was in the hands of a skilful fisherman, who safely landed 
 it on the shore, with the assistance of another person, in 
 spite of its lashing tail and sharp spines. The color of the 
 body was quite a dark olive-brown, with a short nose, and a 
 long slim tail like a whip. And still another, called 
 
 Cow-nosed ray, I saw at the Jefferson Market, some 
 few years after, taken near the same place, by Messrs. 
 Thomas Lawrence, George Starr, William S. Smith, and 
 others. This specimen, however, was a much smaller one 
 than the preceding, weighing twenty-one and a half pounds. 
 It had a double nose, on the side of which were the eyes, 
 instead of on the back like the preceding ; the color also 
 about the same. The wings or fleshy fins were more 
 pointed and wider in proportion, and the tail longer and 
 thinner. The flesh of this variety is generally considered 
 the best, as well as it is the most uncommon in our markets. 
 Another, bearing the name of 
 
 Smooth skate, is not quite so common as the last- 
 named, having a smooth back, a thick, stout tail, with three 
 rows of short stiff spines, one on each side, and the other on 
 the top of the caudal appendage. Dr. Mitchell notices one 
 that was taken beside a wharf in the East River, November 
 5, 1815, the length of which was four feet and one inch, and 
 the breadth two feet and four inches, being a large fish. 
 
 Ilroad-sting ray. — This species is rarely found in 
 our markets, but are sometimes caught East. One of my 
 acquaintances took one that weighed one hundred and sixty 
 pounds, which had a great deal more width than length. 
 A part of the fleshy fins was prepared by one of the party 
 and eaten, but was not generally liked. 
 
230 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 Porpoises • — These large fish are sometimes caught, 
 especially by sailors who have been long without fresh pro- 
 visions. They harpoon them, and cut out the choice fleshy 
 parts, enough for a day or two's use, and throw the balance 
 overboard. The flesh is nearly the color of venison, and 
 from a small fish is quite tender, with the flavor resembling 
 beef, but fishy, and, when fried or made into fish-balls, is 
 considered good eating, and much enjoyed by them. 
 
 John Josselyn, gent., while on his passage to this country, 
 in the month of May, 1638, writes — " In the afternoon, the 
 mariners struck a porpoisce, called also a marsovius, or sea- 
 hogg, with an harping-iron, and hoisted her aboard. They 
 cut some of it into thin pieces, and fryed. It tastes like rusty 
 bacon, or hung beef — if not worse ; but the liver boiled, and 
 soused sometime in vinegar, is more grateful to the pallat." 
 (The liver is much like a hog's, both in appearance and 
 flavor.) Soon after " we took a sharke, a great one, and 
 hoisted him on board. The seamen divided the sharke into 
 quarters, and made more quarters about it than the purser, 
 when he makes five quarters of an oxe ; and, after they had 
 cooked him, he proved very rough-grained, not worthy of 
 wholesome preferment ; but, in the afternoon, we took store 
 of bonitoes, or Spanish dolphins — a fish about the size of a 
 large mackerel, beautiful with admirable varieties of glitter- 
 ing colours in the water, and was excellent food." (No 
 doubt, the Spanish mackerel.) 
 
 In another part of his account he says; "We took a 
 young sharke, about three foot long, which being drest and 
 dished by a young merchant, a passenger, happened to be 
 very good fish, having very white flesh, in flakes like codd, 
 but delicately cur'd." 
 
 Some curious accounts of the taking of porpoises are 
 worthy of notice, the first of which is found in the Post-Boy, 
 November 12, 1744, and dated Dublin, June 5 : " Yesterday 
 being a great spring tide, a vast army of porpusses came up 
 Lough Foyle in pursuit of salmon. As they rolled by Lon- 
 donderry, the sailors pursued them in their boats, and killed . 
 
FISH. 231 
 
 fcliem all the way, drove them six miles farther up the lough, 
 to the flats about Mount Gavelling. There a new chase 
 began by our fishermen and country people, who stretched 
 a net across the lough, and drove them up to the narrow 
 passages of the Great Island, which lies a mile below this 
 town ; there they fell on them with guns, swords, hatchets, 
 and all kinds of weapons, and made a terrible slaughter. 
 There were killed here above one hundred and sixty, besides 
 as many mortally wounded and carried off by the flood. 
 Including those the men of Londonderry killed, there have 
 at least fallen in this battle five hundred porpoises, generally 
 weighing from 1,000 to 1,500 weight, and very good oil. 
 Some of them were full of young ones as big as calves ; and 
 some had from six to ten salmon in their stomachs. But 
 we hope that since these grand devourers are destroyed, 
 our fishing will hereafter flourish, and we are pretty well 
 repaid by this oil for the damage they have done." 
 
 Another more interesting and laughable scene is found in 
 the same paper dated January 13, 1752. In the news from 
 Annapolis, Md., December 4, 1751 : " One Solomon Sharp, 
 seeing a porpoise in a shallow creek, got some of his neigh- 
 bors to go with him to assist in catching it, who shot at it, 
 but without killing it. At length the porpoise, being pretty 
 much fatigued, did not regard the canoe they were in, but 
 frequently came very near it. Sharp watching his oppor- 
 tunity, leaped upon the back of the fish, and was carried by 
 it for a considerable time, sometimes up to his neck in 
 water, till at length the porpoise running himself on shore, 
 was there killed by the spectators." 
 
 Dog-4i$h.— These fish are occasionally, and sometimes 
 plentifully taken in our harbor, but seldom found for sale in 
 our markets, although they are eatable. Large numbers 
 are taken on the eastern coast, principally for the oil they 
 furnish ; and in Truro and Provincetown, Mass., the fish are 
 dried for food for cattle. In Scotland, the flesh of this fish 
 is eaten by the lower classes ; there are also many people 
 who eat them here when properly prepared, — that is, they 
 
232 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 skin them first before cooking, or scald them so that the 
 outside skin is removed easily. I had a piece of a small 
 one (some fifteen inches in length) nicely fried, sent to me, 
 and found it very much the taste of halibut ; rather dry, but 
 good. These fish have much of the appearance of young 
 shark (and I am inclined to think they are the young of the 
 same fish), having a small mouth underneath their long 
 upper jaw. The color of the back is of a dark lead-color, 
 lighter on the sides and quite white underneath, and with- 
 out scales, although the skin is quite rough when stroked 
 backwards, and is considerably used for polishing certain 
 articles. 
 
 In the History of Maine, it is stated that "one of 
 Goswold's men (in 1602) had been cured by sassafras, in 
 twelve hours, of a surfeit occasioned by excessive eating of 
 dog-fish, then considered a delicious fish." 
 
 In the year 1758, during the French war with England, 
 we find the skins of dog-fish and shark were in some demand 
 in New York. The Weekly Post-Boy, July 17, of that year, 
 says : " As there is great plenty of dog-fish and sharks to 
 be caught on this coast, any person that will catch them 
 may hear of a purchaser for the skins, by inquiring of the 
 printer hereof. The said skins must be stretched and dried 
 in the shade, for which an encouraging price will be given." 
 
 Shark. — A small young shark, not over two feet in 
 length, is a very good fish to eat, being sweet, with much 
 the flavor of the halibut. The hammer-head variety I also 
 had cooked (with skin on), and several thought its flesh was 
 much like a young halibut, not quite so dry as the common 
 shark or dog-fish ; it however was from a fish weighing less 
 than two pounds, which appeared very fat. Shark or dog- 
 fish are seldom offered for sale in our markets, or not within 
 my recollection, although I have known persons who have 
 eaten the young of all the varieties, when they could get 
 them. Sailors enjoy their flesh at sea, as it is " fresh meat." 
 Many years ago, when shark were taken at our wharves, and 
 especially near the Catherine or Old Fly Markets, it was a 
 
fish. 233 
 
 treat for some of the old negroes, who were not long in cut- 
 ting out the choice pieces, if the " shirk" was small, for their 
 own particular use. There are many species of this fish, 
 some of which have been taken of an enormous size ; and 
 among the earliest account of these captures is one to be 
 found in the New York Mercury, July 30, 1764, of one taken 
 at Newport " by a number of whalemen, up the river, who 
 went off from Mr. Bowers' shipyard. It is said to be forty- 
 five feet in length, and that the liver of it will make ten 
 barrels of oil." 
 
 Then, Niks' Register, 1822, notices " a basking shark, that 
 was caught near Middletown, N. J., on the 4th of June of 
 that year. Its circumference was eighteen feet, length thirty- 
 two feet ten inches." The Gazette (15th inst.) says of this sea- 
 serpent : " The wonderful sea-serpent lately caught at Brown's 
 Point, near Middletown, N. J., is now exhibiting at 253 
 Broadway, opposite the City Hall. It has two perfect legs, 
 with two joints in each, and a nail projecting out of the 
 palm of each foot. This serpent has no bones, no heart, 
 no tongue, no brains ; but a very large liver, which produced 
 four barrels of oil." 
 
 Under the head of news from Brighton, November 10, 
 1812, we find the following in relation to this variety : " The 
 enormous fish, on having been brought on shore at this 
 place, was yesterday sold by the proprietors in the usual 
 way of their disposing of other fish (commonly known by 
 the name of Dutch auction). It was put up at £150, and 
 kept reducing £5 at a time, till it came to £70, when it was 
 purchased by Mr. Weller, who exhibited it during the day, 
 and which produced to him many pounds. The emoluments 
 which this animal has produced to the fishermen have been 
 very large ; we are assured by the party that they have re- 
 ceived between £200 and £300. The fish, we are now perfectly 
 satisfied, is the squalis maximus, or basking shark. Upon 
 opening this fish, the company present were much surprised 
 at the enormous size of the liver, which consists of two 
 lobes, measuring in length upwards of eleven feet, each 
 
234 THE MAKKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 being sixteen inches thick, and is supposed to weigh con- 
 siderably above two tons." — Commercial Advertiser , J anuary 
 7, 1813. 
 
 Mies again, in 1826 (October 7), says : " A shark of enor- 
 mous length of thirty feet, whose liver filled ten barrels, 
 has been caught near Eastport. When first seen, it was 
 thought to be a sea serpent, and pursued and killed." 
 
 Then again in the same paper, June 6, 1835, we find : 
 "Recently at Princetown, a large 'bone shark' was dis- 
 covered nearly exhausted among a number of herring- 
 seines, several of which he had torn away. A boat put off 
 with a harpoon and lance, when he was immediately dis- 
 patched and brought to shore. He measures twenty seven 
 feet in length, girth about fifteen feet, and his liver is ex- 
 pected to yield eight barrels of oil. This is said to be the 
 largest shark ever taken in that quarter." 
 
 Then, at an early date, is found a singular and dreadful 
 attack of a shark, noticed in the New York Gazette and 
 Weekly Post-Boy, August 12, 1751, in the Boston news, 
 August 5, as follows : " Three men were in a canoe near 
 Well ; a large shark came alongside of them, and, by putting 
 his head over the side of the canoe, endeavored to overset 
 it. That he attempted once or twice in vain, but at last 
 effected it, and got one of the unhappy men, who was doubt- 
 less devoured by the ravenous monster, as he was never 
 seen after. The other two men, having righted the canoe, 
 got into it and escaped." 
 
 A miraculous escape, although a dreadful " fight with a 
 shark," is found noticed in the Greenport, L. I., Watchman 
 (September, 1865), which says : "At about nine A. m., of 
 Sunday last, the schooner Catherine Willcox, of Lubec, 
 Me., was proceeding down the Sound, and while becalmed 
 abreast of that port, about eight miles off shore, the captain 
 and a young man, seventeen years of age, named Peter 
 Johnson, belonging at Robinston, Me., formerly a soldier, 
 and who was now working his passage home, stripped off 
 their clothing and jumped overboard for a swim. Johnson 
 
fish. 235 
 
 swam a few rods from the vessel to pick up a small piece of 
 wood, and, while returning, a huge shark, judged to have 
 been fourteen or fifteen feet long, darted towards him, and 
 seized him about the middle, and instantly disappeared 
 with him, dragging him down, as he says, about thirty feet 
 deep. He struggled and fought with the ravenous monster, 
 fearfully lacerating his right arm in the effort. He finally 
 succeeded in grasping the shark by the head, and by goug- 
 ing one of his eyes, at the same time dealing him powerful 
 blows about the head, he succeeded in wresting himself 
 free. He then swam to the schooner, pursued by the mon- 
 ster ; but, being a man of remarkable physical strength and 
 pluck, he finally succeeded in driving him off, and got on 
 board of the schooner, pulling himself up by the fore-topsail 
 clue-line, which hung overboard, but not until the terrible 
 teeth had left their mark in many a ghastly wound on his 
 abdomen, groins, thigh, and leg, so that he was one mass of 
 gore. The mate and one of the crew took him in the yawl- 
 boat and rowed to the shore, landing at Bokum, whence he 
 was conveyed in a wagon to the residence of Dr. Skinner, 
 who, with Doctors Bryant and Kendall, sewed up and 
 dressed his wounds, the operation lasting nearly an hour, 
 during which time he was kept under the influence of 
 chloroform. There were some thirty-four distinct wounds 
 on his person. The abdomen and groin of the right side 
 were fearfully mangled, the flesh being torn off and left 
 hanging by the skin only, nothing but the thin lining mem- 
 brane of the abdomen preventing the entrails from gushing 
 out ; the femoral vessels were laid bare and the nerves com- 
 pletely exposed. On the left side of the abdomen was an- 
 other wound, similar in character but less extensive. The 
 right thigh was very badly torn and gashed. Nothing but 
 his indomitable courage and physical vigor enabled him to 
 escape alive. The case attracts attention because of the 
 fact that the shark must have been of the species known as 
 'man-eater,' which are common in low latitudes, but are 
 rarely seen in shoal water. The common shovel-nose shark 
 
236 
 
 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 
 of our waters seldom, if ever, attack mankind. Johnson is 
 still living, and, although in a very precarious situation, 
 there is yet some hope of his ultimate recovery." 
 
 FISH — SMALL AND ABUNDANT. 
 
 Brook trout, or speckled trout.— This beautiful 
 and excellent fish (as it is generally 
 considered) is usually found quite 
 small in our markets. The best are 
 taken from the clear, running 
 streams, — the head and back being 
 mottled with a brownish-green and 
 yellow ; the sides of a bluish-gray, 
 covered with large yellow and crim- 
 son spots; and the belly of a sil- 
 very white. The mouth has a black 
 appearance inside. They are some- 
 times found differently marked, 
 being much darker, with more red 
 and gold colors, etc. ; but, as I have 
 before mentioned, the cause is in 
 the different sexes, ages, waters, 
 and food. Their flesh is somewhat 
 the color of salmon, but lighter, and 
 nearly of an orange-color; and as 
 for its table qualifications, although 
 I have placed this fish at the head 
 of this list, yet I cannot agree with 
 a great many epicures as to the 
 superiority of its flesh : for the pot, 
 pan, or gridiron, and plainly cooked, 
 there are many small fish which 
 I prefer before this usually dry- 
 fleshed fish; but when rashers of 
 fat pork, etc., are cooked with it, 
 
 Brook Trout. 
 
mm. 237 
 
 then the flesh will bear the weight of their testimony in 
 favor of it. The correct way, however, of testing the quali- 
 ties of a fish, is simply to plain boil it, without sauces or 
 any thing else to make it better or worse. 
 
 Brook- trout are found in our markets from half a pound 
 to four pounds weight, in their season, which appears to be 
 from March (rather better in April) until August. A law 
 was passed early in the year 1817, against the sale of this 
 fish from the first day of October to the fifteenth day of 
 March, in any year ; nor at any time, weighing less than 
 half a pound. 
 
 Among the largest specimens of this fine fish, the Easton 
 Sentinel, of 18 — , notices : 
 
 "Mammoth Tkout. — General Cadwallader and lady, of 
 Philadelphia, being on a visit to Bethel, Pa., Mr. G. H. 
 Goundie presented to Mr. Zeigler, of the Eagle Hotel, one 
 of the largest brook-trout perhaps ever known in this coun- 
 try, which was served up in his best style at a dinner last 
 Monday to the general and lady, and a party of ladies and 
 gentlemen of Bethlehem, Pa. The trout measured twenty- 
 two inches in length, nineteen inches in circumference, and 
 weighed seven and one-eighth pounds. It was raised by 
 Mr. Jacob Schnieder, of the Leigh-water Gap, who had kept 
 it for the last six years in a trough in the second story of 
 his house." 
 
 Then the Daily Times, May 17, 1855, says : " Among the 
 attractions of Messrs. Tiffany, Ellis & Co., at their store in 
 Broadway, yesterday, were three enormous brook-trout, of 
 surpassing beauty. The largest weighed five pounds ; they 
 were taken by Mr. J. B. Young, in Killingly, Conn." 
 
 The same paper, October 17, 1863, shows " a big thing 
 on ice." " The most superb specimens of brook-trout that 
 we have ever seen have been brought to this city by Mr. G. 
 S. Page, of the firm of George S. Page & Brother, Maiden 
 Lane. They were caught by Mr. Page, in the early part of 
 this week, somewhere north of New York City, about one 
 Jaundred and fifty miles off. The heaviest of the fish, a huge, 
 
238 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 fat, plump, glorious fellow, of firm flesh and unequalled 
 complexion, weighed eight and three-quarters pounds ; the 
 next largest weighed eight and one-quarter pounds ; the 
 next, seven and a quarter pounds ; and several of them were 
 five and six pounds a piece. Altogether, fifty-one large 
 trout, weighing two hundred and seventy-three pounds, 
 were taken from a small brook, in eight days' fishing, by 
 two gentlemen — Mr. Page and Mr. Henry O. Stanley." A 
 still larger fish is noticed in the Tribune, February 29, 1856, 
 which stated that " Genin, the hatter, had in his possession 
 a speckled (lake) trout, twenty-six inches in length, and 
 weighing twelve pounds, that was caught in Lake O'Claire, 
 a hundred miles northeast of Montreal, by Mr. W. Parker." 
 The same paper again, July 14, 1864, says: "Mr. West, 
 president of the Fishermen's Club and proprietor of the 
 Franklin House, Tarrytown, was in the city yesterday. He 
 brought with him the six-pound brook-trout, caught by Mr. 
 E. E. Wunder, of No. 167 Bleecker-street. The fish has been 
 kept in a spring, at Mr. "West's house, for some time, and 
 is in as healthy condition as any admirer of Isaac Walton 
 could wish. The trout was formally presented to Mr. Wun- 
 der by James Drumgold, secretary of the club." 
 
 A curious incident is found in the Commercial Advertiser, 
 July 12, 1816, taken from the Boston News, July 5th, and 
 headed "Fishing extraordinary.— As a gentleman was an- 
 gling last Thursday, in the mill-dam, Westchester, he acci- 
 dentally threw his line across a strong white duck, which 
 suddenly turned round, twisted the gut about her own neck, 
 and fixed the hook of the dropper fly in her own breast. 
 Thus entangled and hooked, she soon broke off the gut 
 above the dropper, and sailed down the stream with the end 
 fly trailing behind her. She had not proceeded far before 
 a trout, apparently about one and one-half pound weight, 
 took the fly effectually. Then commenced a struggle the 
 most extraordinary that ever was witnessed— a duck at the 
 dropper and a large trout at the end of the fly ! Whenever 
 the trout exerted itself the terrors of the duck were very 
 
fish. 239 
 
 conspicuous — it fluttered its wings and dragged the fish. 
 In case of no violent struggle on the part of the trout, the 
 duck evidently gave way, and suffered herself at last to be 
 drawn under some bushes, where the shortness of the gut 
 did not allow the trout to shelter himself in his retreat, and 
 the duck to remain on the surface at the same time. The 
 duck's head was repeatedly drawn under water. By chance, 
 however, the gut got across a branch, which hung down- 
 wards in the water, and the duck, taking advantage of the 
 purchase which this gave her, dragged her opponent from 
 his hole and compelled him to show his head above water. 
 Then it became a contest of life or death — the trout was in 
 the last agonies, and the duck evidently in a very weak 
 state — when the gut gave way and suffered them to part, 
 each his own way." 
 
 King-ilsh (called barb along the Jersey shore, and 
 whiting 1 on the coast of Florida, Carolina, etc.) This very 
 fine, small, solid-fleshed, and highly-esteemed fish is es- 
 pecially adapted for the frying-pan. In former years they 
 were quite abundant, but of late they sometimes pass many 
 seasons before showing themselves, not being considered a 
 regular or yearly visitor. The color on the back and sides 
 is of a dark bluish-gray, with silvery reflexions and clouds 
 of a darker hue running obliquely across or forward from 
 the back, and a white, silvery belly. Their usual weight 
 is about three-quarters of a pound, and seldom above two 
 pounds. The largest fish of this species I ever saw weighed 
 two and three-quarter pounds, in the month of May, 1865. 
 In season from May to September. 
 
 §melt • — This pretty, little, and almost transparent fish, is 
 considered one of the very best " pan-fish," if the small size 
 was not against it, which causes it to be somewhat trouble- 
 some to prepare. The back is of a pale olive-green, with 
 silvery sides, and a satin-like band extending its whole 
 length. Weight from two to four ounces, and in season 
 from October to April. When fresh (or green, as the fisher- 
 men term all fish which are not frozen or stale) they have a 
 
240 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 smell much like that of cucumbers ; and when stale they 
 lose this pleasant odor, and also their usual flavor. 
 
 Sea-perch or ruddy-bass. — This fish is the common 
 sea or river perch, which is found so plentiful when in sea- 
 son. The color, however, is sometimes found quite differ- 
 ent when taken from different waters, but all are excellent 
 eating. Its usual color is of an olive-brown tinge, and a 
 golden hue when fresh out of water ; the sides are of a yel- 
 lowish white and with reddish fins. The largest and best 
 are brought from " Old Town Bay," where they are taken 
 above four pounds weight. In season from November to 
 May, and scattering along until July. Usual weight about 
 half a pound. 
 
 Frost-fish or tom-cod. — This is a scaleless but a del- 
 icate and savory pan-fish of the cod species, and of a small 
 size. Its color varies much in the different seasons, from a 
 rich orange to a light green yellow, shaded by a dark brown 
 on the back. Common weight from a quarter to half a 
 pound. In season from September to April. 
 
 Silver eel. — This is considered the finest of the eel 
 species, and the color, even " skinned," has something the 
 appearance of silver. Old fishermen say they do not stay 
 in the harbor and bury themselves in the mud as the com- 
 mon eels do, but in the month of November they appear in 
 thousands leaving for the " deep sea," and what is most sin- 
 gular, those of a size leave together, when they are often 
 taken in nets, all of a size. They also say that in spearing 
 for eels through the ice, seldom or never are silver eels 
 taken. In season from April to November. In the fall of 
 1861, the Messrs. Miller, of Fulton Market, had two skinned 
 of nearly seven pounds' weight. The skins were tanned and 
 made into two pocket-books (by Geo. Evans & Son, No. 1 
 Jacob-street) of a very flexible and durable character. 
 
 Common eel. — They are a very sweet and savory fish, 
 and always in our markets in plenty. Those taken from the 
 seashore are preferred, as they are generally in the best 
 condition. An old fisherman told me that he one day 
 
 
FISH. 241 
 
 caught several eels at the foot of Fifteenth-street, North 
 Biver, which he took home and had cooked, but in conse- 
 quence of a disagreeable taste he could not eat them. He 
 supposed the gas-works or refuse from that place cast into 
 the river had affected them, as he found the taste much as 
 the gas-tar smelled. A curious-looking eel was sent to me, 
 and on laying it alongside of a common eel of the same 
 weight (two pounds three ounces), I found it three and one- 
 half inches longer, a slimmer and a more pointed head, the 
 color on the back of a dark bluish-black, underneath of a 
 grayish brown, and the whole body was covered with short, 
 black, distinct bars, about one-eighth of an inch long, but 
 shorter near the head. These bars were irregularly laid, 
 with three or four in line, or side by side, then across the 
 ends, and so continued throughout. 
 
 The serpentine appearance of the eel is not in its favor, 
 and no doubt somewhat injures their sale ; but they are as 
 good eating as they are ill-looking, and what is most in their 
 favor is that they are always found " skinned" when for sale 
 on the stands. Usual weight from a half to two pounds, al- 
 though at times they run much larger. A few years ago 
 Rogers & Co., of Fulton Market, had a box of large eels 
 which weighed from eight to twelve pounds each, and 
 skinned at that. The following notices are of larger ones. 
 The American Register, Philadelphia, 1807, says : " On Sat- 
 urday last an eel of the following surprising dimensions was 
 caught by Captain Howland, between the bridges on the 
 Schuylkill, viz. : length five feet two inches, girth thirteen 
 inches, width twelve inches, and weighing twelve and one- 
 half pounds." Dr. Smith, in his work on " Fish," says : 
 " The largest eel on record was caught in a bay of Long 
 Island, and weighed sixteen and a half pounds." If the 
 doctor had looked in the New York Gazette, January 15th, 
 1727-8, he would have found the following heavy eel story : 
 " They write from Shire-Drain, in Lincolnshire, that on the 
 16th of last month an eel was caught there by one Wm. 
 Townshend, which was seven feet four inches in length, two 
 
 11 
 
242 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 feet six inches thick ; the fat taken out of it weighed sixteen 
 pounds and a half ; the ears were eight inches long ; the 
 water taken out of its bladder was three quarts and a pint ; 
 the weight of the creature was sixty-five pounds." 
 
 Eel -skins are found dried for sale in some of our mar- 
 kets, but usually at the Fulton. They are used for various 
 purposes. 
 
 Carp. — This beautiful and excellent fish has for several 
 years past been found in our markets. It is not a native of 
 these waters, but having been introduced here, it has made 
 its way into the North Eiver, where many have been taken 
 for several years past and brought to our markets. Their 
 general color on the back is a golden olive-brown, head 
 darker, belly yellowish white, fins dark brown, and a small 
 mouth. They look somewhat like the sucker, with a scale 
 like the mullet. Their growth is slow. They usually weigh 
 from one-half to three pounds, and occasionally above 
 twelve pounds, but average about one pound. In season 
 from October to April. 
 
 Lafayette fish, sea-chub, spot, goody, or 
 river porgee. — These are a sweet and good little pan- 
 fish, rather a rare visitor, but some years they appear quite 
 abundant. The year that Lafayette visited America (1824) 
 this fish was very numerous ; and, at that time, by general 
 consent, it received this new name, as it was thought by 
 many to be a new fish. Color of a grayish-white, with many 
 dark-colored bars running obliquely forward, and pale yel- 
 low fins ; in season from July to October, when it visits our 
 harbors. Its usual weight is from a quarter to half a pound. 
 
 Big porgee, or porgy, scnp, scapang.— This is 
 a well-flavored fish, although a little dry, and would be 
 more valued if it was less plentiful. They are pretty well 
 known without description, as they are taken in great num- 
 bers on the " banks," in the many excursions throughout 
 the summer months, by many of our citizens. Thousands 
 are also taken on the Eastern coast, which are generally 
 poorer, smaller, and darker colored. In the month of April 
 
eish. 243 
 
 a few of a very large size are occasionally taken, which are 
 found very fine. Their general season begins in May and 
 lasts until December — usually found best in the fall months. 
 Weight from a half-pound to two pounds — the average less 
 than one pound. 
 
 In relation to the large numbers of this and other fish 
 taken sometimes, I extract the following from a letter of T. 
 Y. Tuthill, dated 1849. He says: "My farm lies on the 
 east end of Long Island, in the town of South old, Suffolk 
 County. It is bounded on the south by a small bay, where 
 there is an abundance of seaweed, fish, eels, clams, etc. 
 There were taken in this bay, in a few days, last season, nearly 
 one hundred thousand porgies, which were sent to New York, 
 and brought over one thousand dollars. There have been 
 taken in our harbor, in the months of May and June, over 
 eight millions of white-fish (which we use mostly for manure), 
 in shoals of one hundred to forty thousand at a draught. 
 Our lines are from one hundred and fifty to two hundred 
 and fifty rods long. They are drawn by horses around a 
 capstan." 
 
 Spring mackerel, or common mackerel. — This 
 is one of the most beautiful of all fish, being of a round, 
 tapering form, back marked with blue and green, and white 
 under. Its appearance, however, is pretty well known, as 
 well as its quality, to all housekeepers, fresh, salted, or 
 smoked. It is never found alive on the stands, and seldom 
 found a fat fish fresh ; or rather, there are seldom any found 
 among those brought fresh to our markets that would rank 
 No. 1 salted. They appear smaller, and seldom weigh 
 above one pound. Many fishermen say that it is the same 
 fish that is taken to the " Eastward," and salted in such vast 
 numbers; and, no doubt, when they arrive here on our 
 coast, after having a long and wearisome passage, as they 
 are sometimes met at sea in immense shoals, extending along 
 the sea as far as the J eye can reach, followed, worried, and 
 destroyed by hundreds of dolphins, and other large fish, is 
 the cause of their being in such poor condition when found 
 
244 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 on the fish- stands ; but they soon regain their fatness in our 
 waters, and before the large numbers are taken on the coast 
 of Massachusetts, etc., for barrelling, they are in a better 
 condition. They are not, however, t;he No. 1 fish of forty 
 years ago, when we often found them large and fat enough 
 to weigh from one and a quarter to two pounds, and salted 
 at that. The present No. 1 fish would then rank about No. 
 3, which were then seldom wanted. The fine large fish have 
 been either driven away, and sought new feeding-grounds, 
 or they have ceased to be plentiful as in former years — per- 
 haps in consequence of the great numbers annually taken, 
 which has gradually diminished the old large fish, and left 
 the small young fish behind. Those mackerel which are 
 brought to our markets fresh, are principally taken off the 
 " Hook," and brought alive in fish-wells, but soon die after 
 having been taken out. In season about the first of May, 
 and found scattering along nearly the whole summer. 
 
 A very large catch of mackerel, and other fish, is noticed 
 in the New York Mercury, July 15, 1754 : " Last Wednesday 
 fortnight, there was taken, off Cape Henry, the largest 
 draught of fish ever known in this part of the world. After 
 several pilot-boats, etc., were loaded with them, there re- 
 mained on the beach not less than tiventy ivagon-loads, among 
 which were vast quantities of very fine large mackerel." 
 
 Thimble-eyed mackerel, ctmb-mackerel, or 
 fall mackerel. — These fish are found smaller than the 
 preceding, and with very large eyes. There is not much 
 doubt but they are the young of the " spring mackerel." 
 My parents told me that, in the fall of 1813, provisions were 
 scarce and high, but, providentially, large schools of these 
 small mackerel came into our harbors, and filled all the 
 small rivers, creeks, inlets, when cart-loads were taken and 
 sold very cheap, which tended to relieve the wants of many 
 of the poor inhabitants, in that season of scarcity and want. 
 When found in our markets they are usually strung to- 
 gether, but are not much thought of for the table. In season 
 from September to November. 
 
fish. 245 
 
 Berg- all, blue perch, Conner, choqset. — There 
 are two varieties of this little fish (blue, or common, and 
 spotted), both much the appearance of the black-fish, but 
 lighter colored, one of quite a bluish cast, the other quite 
 spotted. A very fair pan-fish, but, by taking the skin off 
 (Boston fashion), the flesh appears very white, and is deli- 
 cate eating. Average weight not over six ounces ; in season 
 from June to November. 
 
 Winf er flounder, or ]\ew York flat-fish. — This 
 small species of the flat-fish is usually known as the " win- 
 ter-flounder. The color is of a pale, dirty green, with dark- 
 ish clouded spots, and white beneath. The mouth is quite 
 small, with the eyes on the left side, and the gill opening 
 on the right. In season from October to July ; weight from 
 six, to ten ounces, and an excellent pan-fish. 
 
 Sand flounder, or pigmy flat-fish, is another 
 species, smaller, and not so good for the pan. The color is 
 of an olive-brown on back, and underneath of a bluish- 
 white ; weight from a quarter to half a pound. 
 
 Yellow perch, yellow barred perch, — This 
 little fresh-water perch is occasionally found quite plentiful 
 on the fish-stands ; in fact, it is taken from almost all the 
 lakes and fresh-water rivers in the United States. It differs 
 from the common perch in having a rounder body, head 
 smaller, and tapering towards the snout ; eyes, large ; color 
 of the back, olive, with yellow sides, and lighter underneath. 
 Four or more bands also run across from the back to the 
 belly. I had a very large perch, weighing above two pounds, 
 boiled (which was taken in one of the lakes on Long Island, 
 with several others quite as large), and found the flesh firm, 
 but quite dry and almost tasteless ; no doubt, it would have 
 been much better fried or broiled. Found in the greatest 
 plenty along in the winter months, but in season from Sep- 
 tember to April. 
 
 §and-porgee. — A smaller fish than the common porgee, 
 but something of the same appearance, except that it has 
 five or six dusky bars across the back. A very fair pan-fish 
 
246 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 of about six ounces weight. In season in the months of 
 August and September. 
 
 Mullet. — There are several varieties of these fish, among 
 which the striped mullet is the most plentiful. They are 
 usually a very fat fish, but for the table they are not much 
 admired, having an unpleasant flavor ; the white mullet, 
 however, are considered the best. The striped variety have 
 large scales, color and stripes somewhat like the striped 
 bass, being also a rounder and thicker fish, with a small 
 blue spot on the base of the pectoral fin. They also have 
 a short flat head, and a mouth which raises higher in the 
 centre than on the sides when open. Usual weight is about 
 a half a pound, and in season from September to May. I saw 
 one in November, 1858, which weighed three and a quarter 
 pounds. Mr. R. D. Brower, fishmonger, of Jefferson Market, 
 informed me that in the year 1841, while living on the coast 
 of New Jersey, between Squan and Barnegat, a very heavy 
 storm and high wind drove the sea over the banks, and with 
 it large numbers of mullet, so as to fill all the low-lands 
 and small ponds with water several feet deep. For two or 
 three days thousands were taken with a common scap-net, 
 before the water ran off, and with it carried off the fish. 
 He says they were in excellent condition, and no doubt 
 driven or forced in by the heavy sea. 
 
 Sea-robin, banded gurnard, grunter, or pig- 
 fish. — This fish is known by the above names, but usually 
 as the sea-robin, among our fishermen. It is at times 
 caught plentifully in nets, in the months of May, June, and 
 July, with the porgee, but it is seldom used as food, as it is 
 an ugly fish to handle as well as to clean, on account of the 
 long bony spines about the head and gills, and also being 
 without scales and quite slippery. The flesh, however, is 
 good; if the head be taken off and dished up as the king- 
 fish, in eating it I could hardly tell the difference. Its usual 
 weight is from six to twelve ounces, but I have heard of 
 their weighing twenty ounces. 
 
 Another fish, somewhat like this fish, called 
 
fish. 247 
 
 Common bull-head, or common sculpin, but 
 
 usually not so large nor quite so plentiful, is occasionally 
 found among other fish. The body and fins are usually 
 found marked like a toad ; head rough and spiny, with large 
 side or pectoral fins, and small ventral, but quite long. The 
 flesh is good eating, but its form and color render it rather 
 objectionable for the table. 
 
 Harvest-fish— broad shiner. — This fish is also 
 commonly known by many of our fishermen as butter-fish. 
 The name harvest-fish is given it, no doubt, from the fact 
 that they are usually caught in large numbers about that 
 season. They are short, deep, and quite thin above and 
 below, of a silvery color, with blue and green tints, and the 
 sides marked with short creases. They also have large eyes 
 and the nose quite short and blunt; weight about six 
 ounces, and in season from July to October. A very fair 
 pan-fish, but rather unpleasant to clean : in consequence of 
 their food, and from this cause, some give them the name of 
 stinkards ; the fishermen of New York, however, have called 
 this fish butter-fish so many years, that it will be trouble- 
 some to get rid of it. There is a little fish known as the 
 
 American hnf ter-Jish, or spotted gunnel, about 
 six inches in length, round in form, with a small head and 
 eyes. The top or dorsal fin runs the whole length of the 
 body and is quite short, marked with fourteen black marks ; 
 the under or anal fin runs about half way to the tail, which 
 is also short and rounding ; the sides are also covered with 
 several dark oval marks, and the whole fish seldom weighs 
 above three ounces. They are seldom found in our markets 
 although often taken in our harbor, or among oyster-beds. 
 A fine specimen of five and a half inches long, taken out of 
 a large oyster by G. Braisted, of Jefferson Market, and pre- 
 sented to me, appeared to have been caught or fastened up 
 in the oyster, perhaps the day before the oyster was taken. 
 
 Shiner, or hay shiner.—This is a beautiful little 
 silvery-looking fish, being of a little darker hue above than 
 below, and the fins of a yellowish tint. They are very 
 
248 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 delicate eating, but small and troublesome to prepare for 
 that operation. I have often caught them around the 
 harbor of New York, with other kinds at the same time. I 
 have also taken another kind, called 
 
 New York shiner, or fresh-water shiner, from 
 some of the fresh-water streams, much like the preceding, 
 but not so delicate eating. They are, however, seldom found 
 in our markets, in consequence of not being salable. 
 
 Common sucker. — This is a square, thick-backed, 
 and round-bodied fish of a dusky greenish cast, whitish 
 belly, and a small puckered mouth under, as if it lived 
 altogether by suction. It is found in running (fresh water) 
 streams, lying on or near the bottom quite still, where I 
 have often taken them with a noose-snare made of long 
 horse-hair on the end of a long pole. It is quite a fair pan- 
 fish, but of a groundy taste. In season from October 
 through the winter months. Average weight less than a 
 pound. I saw one at the Fulton Market, October, 1855, 
 which weighed three and a half pounds, and have read of 
 them weighing five. 
 
 Cat-fish, or common cat fish, horned pout, 
 minister! — This is a common fresh-water fish, found in 
 our markets in the months from February to May, then 
 again in October and November ; usually of a dusky brown 
 color above, mottled sides, and a dirty white beneath ; with- 
 out scales and quite slimy, and with several barbels or 
 fleshy whiskers about the mouth, which gives it somewhat 
 the appearance of a cat's nose. Their color, however, 
 varies much when taken from different waters ; as well as, 
 some have larger heads in proportion, being broader, 
 longer, and quite thorny, which some persons give the 
 names of bull-heads, bull-pouts, brown cat-fish, and when 
 found of a very dark or black color, they call them black 
 cat-fish. They are all unfit for the table without being 
 skinned, which adds much to their qualities as a good pan- 
 fish. Perhaps the fish-women of Baltimore understand 
 taking off their jackets (skins) better than any others in the 
 
msh. 249 
 
 trade in the various large cities, with a woollen glove on the 
 left hand, and a knife followed with a pair of nippers in 
 the right ; the fish are seized in the left hand, and quickly 
 the skins fly one way while the flesh goes another, and the 
 fish is ready for the pan or pot before the deed could be 
 recorded. Large numbers are also sold in Philadelphia, 
 where they tie them up by the tail in bunches of four or six, 
 and sell them for a tip or a levee according to the size ; the 
 smallest fish are, however, the best. 
 
 An old black fellow, fishing in the Delaware, near Point- 
 no-Point, several years ago, was seen to haul up several 
 fine rock (streaked bass) fish, which he had no sooner dis- 
 engaged from his hook than he threw into the water again. 
 When asked the reason of this strange proceeding, he drew 
 himself up, and with a countenance in which it was impos- 
 sible to say whether haughtiness or indignation predomi- 
 nated, replied : " Ven I fishes for catty (meaning cat-fish) 
 I'll ketch catty, and have nothing to do wid dese ere feller 
 till I want him." 
 
 Common herring. — This is the smallest of the her- 
 ring species, and known by many as the herring of com- 
 merce, as the greatest numbers caught are cured as salted 
 herring, or smoked herring, and thus sent abroad ; but I 
 think they are not now so plentiful as they were some thirty 
 years ago. They are usually brought here in the frozen or 
 fresh state during the months of February, March, and 
 April. Their color on the back and head is quite a dark 
 blue, tinged with yellow, and lighter underneath. Usual 
 weight about half a pound. Another variety is called the 
 
 Spring-herring or American alewive. — These 
 fish are usually found much larger than the preceding, and 
 have much of the form of a small shad ; in fact, some fish- 
 ermen call them hickory shad. Color of the back of a bluish 
 green, with silvery sides that show a striped appearance, 
 and large scales. They are often caught with the shad in 
 the spring of the year, and sometimes found plentiful, cheap, 
 and not much thought of. 
 
250 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 In the news from Havre-de-Grace, Maryland, April 30, 
 1818, is noticed : " Great Haul of Fishes.— On the 29th 
 inst., it is computed that the almost incredible number of 
 nearly two millions of herrings, besides a great number of 
 shad, were taken in the vicinity of this town. We saw two 
 different hauls, each of which, we are informed by those ac- 
 quainted with fishing, contained three hundred thousand 
 fine herrings and a considerable number of mammoth shad." 
 — Commercial Advertiser, May 4, 1818. 
 
 Sun-fish, pond-fish, or pumpkin-seed. — These 
 little, plentiful, fresh-water fish are generally caught more 
 for amusement than the table ; they are, however, found 
 in large numbers, usually from October to April, especially 
 when other fish are scarce. Their colors are beautiful, be- 
 ing of a greenish olive, with red and yellow irregular spots, 
 and also two large dark spots, one on each side or edge of 
 the gill-covers, back of the eye. They are a short, deep fish, 
 of about three or four ounces in weight ; I have, however, 
 had them to weigh over half a pound. Their flesh is sweet, 
 but dry and crumbling. Another variety of this fish is called 
 
 Black-eared pond- fish, but is not so plentiful. A 
 specimen presented to me November 4, 1864, weighed thir- 
 teen ounces, length nine inches, depth four inches, and was a 
 thicker and a little longer fish, according to the width, than 
 the preceding. The scales were less variegated, but with 
 fight blue irregular stripes starting from the lower jaw and 
 running back on the gill-cover, and on which was a black 
 ear on a line with the eye. The yellow color was not so 
 brilliant as the above. As a table-fish I found its flesh much 
 like the former. (Since, I have seen several much larger 
 than the above.) 
 
 Mosshonker, menhaden, panhagen, white- 
 fish, foony-fish, and hard-head. — This fish enjoys 
 more names than any other known. It is a species of the 
 herring that is caught more plentiful than, perhaps, any 
 other kind of fish. The flesh is sweet, but so full of bones 
 as to be almost rejected as food, and of course seldom found 
 
FISH. 251 
 
 in our markets, except the " Catherine," in New York, on a 
 Sunday morning. The color of the head and back is a 
 greenish bronze, with a dark spot on the shoulder just be- 
 hind the top of the gill-openings, and usually about twelve 
 inches in length. The head is short and blunt, with a sharp 
 chin and belly, and with also a smaller scale than the herring, 
 which firmly adheres to the fish. Now and then we find 
 them brought in by some of the "market-women," ready 
 salted and smoked, selling them under the name of herring. 
 Great numbers of large fish are caught with nets off shore 
 by the fishermen, and salted for their own use, in the fall of 
 the year, when they are fat and fine ; in fact, some think 
 they are equal to the shad when salted, and they keep quite 
 as well. Benjamin Tallman writes from Portsmouth to the 
 Newport News, which we find copied in the Evening Express, 
 November 30, 1859, and says : " Last Friday I caught and 
 saved twelve hundred and fifty barrels of menhaden fish at 
 one set. It was the largest school of fish ever caught and 
 saved at one time with a purse seine." Immense quantities 
 are caught at the fisheries on Long Island, where they are 
 a great deal used ; about fifteen thousand on an acre of 
 land being sufficient for any crop, and the price ranging 
 from fifty to seventy-five cents a thousand. 
 
 Toad-fish, Madder-fisEa, or puffer. Although 
 this is an unsightly fish, yet its flesh (what there is of it) 
 is good and well-flavored ; but it should be skinned, like an 
 eel, when its flesh appears white and much like that fish in 
 taste. Thousands are caught and thrown away on account 
 of their uninviting appearance, and of course it is never 
 found on sale. 
 
 LAKGE AND SCAEOE. 
 
 Salmon -trout or sea-trout • — This excellent fish 
 much resembles the salmon in appearance and edible quali- 
 ties ; but when placed side by side with the salmon, its back 
 is of a darker green color, with silvery sides, lighter in the 
 
252 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 color of its fins, and inferior in weight and size. The head 
 and mouth are also smaller. The salmon-trout is never black 
 inside the mouth, like the common brook-trout, although 
 many say (and no doubt it is so) the same fish changed 
 somewhat in color, both externally and internally, and in 
 being of a superior size and flavor, by remaining nearly the 
 whole time in the salt water. The female is considered best 
 for the table, and may be known by a small head and deep 
 body. This is a very scarce fish in our markets, and when 
 found they command a high price. Their usual weight 
 ranges from three to ten pounds, although instances are no- 
 ticed of their being taken larger. The Gazette of the 29th 
 of June, 1821, says : " A very large salmon-trout, weighing 
 thirteen pounds eight ounces, and three feet in length, and 
 seventeen inches round, was caught by Mr. Samuel Carman, 
 Jr., in his pond at Fire-Place, Long Island, on the 24th 
 inst. The Evening Post confirms the above "by three of 
 our most respectable citizens." 
 
 Another large specimen is noticed in the Daily Times, 
 April 12, 1860, " taken on the north side of Long Island, 
 last week, by Mr. J. Crumby, of this city. The trout was 
 twenty and one-half inches long, thirteen and one-quarter 
 inches girth, and weighed four and a half pounds. The 
 nearest approach to the size and weight of this fish was a 
 trout of the same species, taken at Islip, L. I., in March, 
 1848 (by Mr. F. Dodd, of this city), when he was regularly 
 christened as the ' Henry Clay Trout.' His dimensions 
 were a trifle less than the above, and his weight (after hav- 
 ing bled freely) three pounds and fourteen ounces." " Both 
 of the trout as above were of the kind known to some sports- 
 men as ' creek-fish,' and it is unnecessary to say more than 
 this to the initiated. They have constant access to fresh 
 and salt water, without which the trout can never reach the 
 highest state of perfection. They are the true ' game' trout 
 in shape, muscle, and flavor, and cannot be equalled by any 
 other kind. This is conceded by all experienced judges." 
 
 Pompimo. — These excellent Southern fish are occasion- 
 
fish. 253 
 
 ally caught on our coast, especially on the south, side of 
 Long Island and in the Shrewsbury Inlet. There were some 
 eight or ten in our (New York) markets in 1864, and this 
 year (L865) the brothers Miller, and several other fishermen 
 of Fulton Market, had several specimens in the month of 
 July, which were principally eaten by the fishermen, who 
 pronounced them among the choicest fish, and Mr. Samuel 
 Miller thinks they are equal if not superior to the Spanish 
 mackerel. The Southerners also place them above all other 
 fish for the table. In form and general appearance they are 
 somewhat like the harvest-fish, but longer-bodied and a 
 rounder nose. The under side is also of a yellowish shade 
 or color, as well also as the edge of the ventral and caudal 
 fins. In size they appear various ; some have been taken 
 as light as half a pound, and others, again, above ten 
 pounds. I purchased one on the 18th of July, 1865, which 
 weighed one pound ten ounces, from which I made a draw- 
 ing, then afterwards had it fried, and I found it equal to its 
 reputation given above. 
 
 Common shad salmon, herring saBinon, or 
 white-fish of the lakes, is a scarce fish in the markets 
 here (New York), but, no doubt, in a few years the facilities 
 will be so easy for conveying these and other rare species 
 of fish from the great lakes, that they will become as well 
 known to us as the lake salmon, muskellonge, etc. It is 
 said the usual size and form of this fish are about those of 
 the shad, but with a sharper head, having a bluish back, 
 and white beneath. There is also another variety spoken 
 of called the Otsego shad salmon — Otsego feass — 
 which De Witt Clinton says " is nearly equal to any fish 
 that swims, for exquisite and delicious food. It is among 
 fishes what the grouse or canvas-back duck is among birds. 
 The flesh is fine, white, and delicate. It is rarely taken with 
 the hook, but has been taken by the seine to the number of 
 five thousand at a draught, in the Otsego Lake, and is daily 
 increasing." The color on the back is of a dusky gray, 
 
254 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 
 striped like the striped-bass, and weighing usually about 
 five or six pounds. 
 
 Ited-l>ass 5 branded corvina, or spud. — This is 
 said to be an excellent Southern saltwater fish, and is occa- 
 sionally found in our markets, having been brought by the 
 coasting vessels. Its form is like the king-fish, but much 
 deeper, and the color on the back resembles the weak-fish ; 
 the sides have a peculiar streaked look, that is, the bluish 
 streaks are straight until about half-way, when they turn 
 up a little, and then continue on straight to the tail. There 
 is also a reddish tinge (although the two specimens pre- 
 sented to me (February 9, 1865) were more of a silverish, 
 metallic hue, but they had been under others, and were, 
 perhaps, two weeks old) and silvery white underneath. One 
 of mine had a dark, branded spot each side of the tail, and 
 the other had two, besides four others, small and large, on 
 each side between the centre and tail. They were not in 
 the best condition for the table, although good ; but I per- 
 ceived a groundy taste which was not very pleasant. What 
 I saw (some fourteen) would average one and one-quarter 
 pounds each. 
 
 Lake trout, or lake salmon. — These fresh-water 
 fish are among the best when taken from the fine clear- 
 water lakes. I have seen them that were taken in the 
 Cayuga Lake, weighing above ten pounds. The color and 
 appearance of this fish (as near as I can now recollect) was 
 that of a very large, fat " weak-fish," with the back covered 
 with small spots, and a mouth full of sharp teeth. The flesh 
 was of a yellowish-red color, very much like the salmon ; 
 and, no doubt, from that fact, the name of salmon trout is 
 sometimes given it. It is a good table-fish. 
 
 In some waters the outside color of this fish is darker on 
 the back and head, being of a bluish-black, with lightish 
 spots, belly white and silvery. They are occasionally found 
 in our markets in the months from October to March. 
 Weight from four to seven pounds. 
 
fish. 255 
 
 Mackinaw trout, inackinaw salmon, or na- 
 maycnsh. — This species of the trout is the largest known, 
 and often equals, or rather exceeds, in size the true salmon. 
 It is principally taken in the Great Northern Lakes, and is 
 seldom found in our markets except in the salted state. Its 
 flesh is said to be superior to the common lake-trout ; but I 
 do not think so, or, at least, with the specimens found in 
 our New York markets, which appeared coarse and not so 
 delicate. The average weight of those taken is said to be 
 from twelve to sixteen pounds ; but those which I saw were 
 above twenty pounds, and one over thirty pounds, and I 
 have read of their being taken above one hundred pounds. 
 These very large fish have the appearance of great age, if 
 we should judge from their head, mouth, and teeth. They 
 are also of a lighter color on the back (being quite of a 
 silverish-gray) than the common lake-trout. They are 
 usually found in our markets during the winter months. 
 
 Spotted turfoot, New York plaice, watery 
 flounder. — This variety of the flat-fish is usually found 
 quite scarce, small in size, quite thin in flesh, or with very 
 little on its bones, and quite round in appearance. It is 
 known among the Jersey fishermen as the " sea-flounder" 
 and " sand-flounder," and seldom sought after by them, as 
 they seem to think that there is but little good eating on 
 them without they are large. Their eyes are full and large, 
 as also the mouth, which opens on the left side, and is 
 found filled with small sharp teeth. Color on the back is 
 dark olive-brown, with darker spots dotted over, which 
 grow larger towards the tail, and rather a bluish-white 
 underneath. Its flesh is white, delicate, and well-tasted. 
 Weight from one to ten pounds, and in season from May 
 to September. 
 
 I am told by an old fisherman that he has often taken them 
 with a barbed spear while going along silently with his boat 
 near the shore or inlets on the Jersey coast. He could see 
 them settle themselves down on the bottom, and, by a few 
 motions of their fins, almost cover themselves, with sand, 
 
256 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 from sight ; but the practiced eye discovers their position 
 by a dark spot, when he phinges the spear through them. 
 " Then," says he, " if I strike a big one, his enormous 
 strength would either break my pole or pull me overboard ; 
 so I let them run with the pole,' which shows itself on the 
 surface after a little time, when the fish is exhausted or 
 dead, and I can take it in without risk ; and I have taken 
 them of twelve pounds weight in this manner." 
 
 Many persons assert that we have no turbot, or En- 
 glish turbot, on our coast. Captain Mackinnon of the 
 British Navy (whom, the editors of the Courier and Enquirer 
 say, everybody liked, and was known to more Americans 
 than most foreigners are who visit us), says, in a lecture be- 
 fore the Literary Institute, at Lymington, England, " when 
 he first landed here he went to the fish-markets, and found 
 that there were no turbot, sole, or flat-fish. He took a trawl- 
 net to Newport, Rhode Island, and, in three days, caught 
 seventeen varieties of fish, and amongst them several turbot. 
 They had as fine turbot there as we had, but did not catch 
 them, because they only used the hook." 
 
 The color on the back differs a little from the preceding, 
 being more of a reddish-brown, and sprinkled with small 
 white specks. It has also six small tubercles near the left 
 eye, with a light ring around them. It, no doubt, is a finer 
 fish for the table, the average being also much larger. I 
 read in Pdvingtons Gazetteer, August, 1773, of "a turbot, 
 weighing only eight pounds, was sold at Billingsgate (Lon- 
 don), on Saturday last, for eight guineas." (Had the fish, 
 says the editor, been produced for sale at the Fly Market, 
 in New York, a single piastre would have secured it.) 
 
 The Salem Register (1817) notices : "A very fine turbot, 
 of about forty pounds weight, was caught in our harbor, 
 and brought to town, on Wednesday night, and sold off at 
 the low rate of four cents a pound. This, we are told, is 
 the second that is remembered to have been brought in 
 here. Another, nearly as large, was also caught near the 
 same place, a few years previous." 
 
fish. 257 
 
 French turbot, or Bay of Fundy flounder.— 
 
 There is another variety of the flat-fish brought to our mar- 
 kets in the late winter months, to which the fishermen have 
 given the name of turbot, or French turbot, and an excellent 
 fish it is. In form and color it is somewhat like the pigmy 
 flat-fish, but much larger, longer, and thicker, according to 
 the size. It also has a pointed head, filled full of sharp 
 teeth, with the eyes on the left side. Their usual weight 
 ranged from four to ten pounds. I ate of them several 
 times, and found them choice fish. 
 
 Black triple tail, triple-tail perch, or black 
 grunts. — A fine specimen of this scarce fish I purchased 
 in the month of August, 1864, at Catherine Market, which 
 weighed just three pounds, and measured in length sixteen 
 and a half inches; width of body (alone), seven and a quar- 
 ter inches. It was taken in a net on the Long Island coast, 
 near Flatlands. (Another fine specimen of the same weight 
 was sent to me since.) The color was of a dark greenish- 
 black and bronze, somewhat clouded on the sides and under- 
 neath. The dorsal and anal fins extended so far behind 
 as to give it an appearance, with the caudal fin, of three 
 tails. There were twelve stiff dorsal spines, commencing 
 from above the gill-openings, running back, three in front 
 of the anal fins, and one in the ventral fins. I had the 
 fish boiled, and found it excellent eating, being very much 
 like the sheephead. I believe they are only found here 
 in the summer months, often heavier than the above. 
 
 Banded ephippu§, three-tailed sheephead.— 
 This short, deep, sharp back and bellied fish is occasionally 
 found in our markets, having been taken in the coast-nets, 
 although its home is in the more southern waters. I pur- 
 chased a fine specimen on the 27th July, 1864, which 
 weighed just three pounds, for sixty-three cents, of a fisher- 
 man. Its length, from tip of nose to end of tail, was just 
 fifteen inches ; and its greatest width across, from beginning 
 of the dorsal to the same part of the anal fins, was eight 
 inches ; the color of a leaden-gray, with six partially indis- 
 
 17 
 
258 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 tinct bands running irregulary around the body, commen- 
 cing across the eye, and ending at the root of the caudal or 
 tail fin. I had it boiled, and found its flesh quite equal to 
 the sheephead ; but the bones were more prominent than 
 that fish, or rather less flesh according to the bone. 
 
 Siskawitz, or Northern lake trout. — This large 
 variety of the trout is usually a very fat fish. It is not intro- 
 duced here as a fine table-fish, when fresh, because it is too 
 fat and oily ; but, as a salted fish, it is found here to be one 
 of the best, and usually sold at a high price. The color on 
 the back appears like a mixture of blue, brown, and green, 
 lighter under, with clouds or spots over the whole body. 
 They usually weigh from four to eight pounds. 
 
 disk* — This salt-water fish is occasionally found in our 
 New York markets, but more plentiful in those of Boston. 
 Its color and general appearance resemble the codfish, with 
 thicker shoulders and a broader head. The dorsal fin runs 
 the length of the back, and the ventral fins from the vent to 
 the tail, nearly of the same size, with a lancet-shaped tail ; 
 and these three fins — the dorsal, ventral, and caudal — are 
 all fringed with a white edge. I have eaten twice of this 
 fish, from six to eight pounds, both fried and boiled, which 
 I found not quite the equal of the codfish, the flesh being 
 a little dry, but firm, and not quite so flaky nor sweet ; it 
 had also a shade of a yellowish color through it. This fish, 
 in the warm months, is of a grayish color, mottled with 
 brown spots, and darker in winter ; usual weight from three 
 to eight pounds — average about five pounds ; in season in 
 July and August, and scattering along through the winter. 
 It is a much better salted than a fresh fish. 
 
 Bonita, or striped bonita. — This is a rather stout, 
 round, and smooth fish, somewhat of the appearance of a 
 mackerel, but larger and thicker, and the head pointed, with 
 a wide mouth. Several stripes run along the sides from the 
 gill-openings, quartering towards the tail over the back. It 
 has been sometimes taken or sold for the Spanish mackerel, 
 but is altogether differently shaped and marked (see Span- 
 
msh. . * 259 
 
 nish mackerel). The flesh is firm and white, but not well- 
 tasted. In fact, I think they are the poorest eating of the 
 mackerel species. The larger fish may be better, boiled, 
 than the small are, fried, as it was from the latter that I 
 formed this opinion. Their season runs from June to 
 October, and some years are quite plentifully brought into 
 our markets. Usual weight from four to eight pounds, 
 although I have heard of their weighing above fifty pounds. 
 Several specimens sent to me weighed less than one pound. 
 I have heard sailors call this fish " skip-jack." 
 
 American codling:, or codling. — This fish is also, 
 by some, called " hake." It appears to be a species of the 
 codfish, but I think not quite its equal for the table. They 
 are, however, quite scarce in the fish-markets of New York. 
 The color of the back and sides is of a reddish brown, and 
 under, or rather along, the edge of the sides, it is full of 
 small black specks from mouth to tail ; and the belly, for- 
 ward of the vent, is of a bluish-white color, while, back of 
 the vent, of a dingy yellowish- white. Inside of the mouth 
 is of a pearly white, but in the throat and roots of the 
 tongue it is quite black. It has large, full, blue eyes, and 
 under the gill-openings hang two long hairy fins, split at 
 the ends, and another long dark one on the first dorsal fins ; 
 the second part of the same fins runs about one length down 
 to the tail, and the ventral fin from the vent to the tail. 
 These fish weigh from one to twenty pounds, although those 
 which were sent to me weighed from fourteen to twenty- 
 eight ounces. I found the flesh much like the frost-fish, 
 but with a peculiar smell when alive. In season from Sep- 
 tember to December. 
 
 Hake, American hake (it is also called " Stock- 
 fish" and " Poor John's" in Massachusetts). — These fish are 
 occasionally taken, as also the preceding, with the cod and 
 haddock, and appear of their species, but are longer, and 
 with a tapering, cylindrical body. They have large bony 
 heads, with a thin skin drawn over, which gives them a 
 hard-featured look ; to these are added a large mouth filled 
 
260 4 THE MARKET ASSISTANT?. 
 
 with, sharp teeth, and the lower jaw a little longer than the 
 upper one. The color on the back is of a reddish brown, 
 and below the lateral line a dirty white. In season from 
 June to September, but thej are rarely found on the New 
 York fish-stands. 
 
 A young specimen of about four ounces weight and ten 
 inches in length, was sent to me November 13th, 1860. 
 Afterwards I saw some twenty about the same size, some 
 of which I had cooked, and found their flesh sweet and ten- 
 der, but a little dry. This fish, with many other rare spe- 
 cies, I made drawings of. 
 
 White lake bass, or white hass.— This fresh- 
 water fish is also known in New York city as " lake striped 
 bass," no doubt from the fact that their color, and being 
 also striped, has given them this name. They are quite a 
 common fish at Buffalo and many other places near the 
 fresh-water lakes. They have some of the appearance of 
 white perch as to shape, having a small, pointed head, with 
 the under jaw the longest ; and some four or five distinct 
 stripes running the length of the body, and others quite in- 
 distinct. I saw some at the Fulton Market in the month of 
 October, when they were fat, and I found their flesh quite 
 sweet, except having a little groundy taste. Usual weight 
 from one-half to two pounds. Those which I ate of weighed 
 one-half and one and a half pounds. The larger ones are 
 found here sometimes in a salted state. 
 
 Thick-lipped eel-pout, Menmy. — The common 
 name applied to this fish by the New York fishermen is 
 " Conger eel." The color of the several specimens which 
 were, in my possession was a light brown, with dusky spots 
 on their sides. The fins were also spotted. The head and 
 mouth were large, and the lips thick and fleshy ; while the 
 body had the appearance of an eel's tail. Under the jaw, 
 near the base of the round pectoral fins, were two stiff spi- 
 nous feelers, one and a quarter inches long, which, no doubt, 
 are used to creep along the bottom when in search of shell- 
 fish. I found them good eating, but a little dry ; weight 
 
FISH. 261 
 
 from four to six pounds. They are generally caught in com- 
 pany with the codfish, and found in our markets in February, 
 March, and April. 
 
 Conger eel, or American conger, is altogether a 
 different fish from the preceding, and also a scarce one in 
 our New York markets. Their color is of a dark olive- 
 green on the head and back, underneath of a dirty white, 
 and from three to four feet in length, with the tail ending in 
 a sharp point. The lips are thick and fleshy, with seven 
 small holes on a line back of the eye. Their flesh is not 
 pleasant-flavored. Weight from two to six pounds, and in 
 season from November to April. 
 
 " A conger eel was taken in the river Medway, near Eom- 
 ney Marsh, which measured in length seven feet six inches 
 and a half, in circumference two feet nine inches and three- 
 quarters, and its weight was thirty-six pounds and a half." 
 — Gaz. and Post-Boy, Feb. 5, 1761. 
 
 Groper, or red groper. — This is an inhabitant of the 
 Southern waters, and a scarce fish in our markets, but 
 sometimes brought to us in the months of April and May 
 by the fishing-vessels. The shape and size is much that of 
 the sea-bass — not quite equal for the table — of a light pink- 
 ish-red, with large eyes. I saw several specimens in the 
 Washington Market on the 7th February, 1857, which, it 
 was said, were taken on our coast. Their appearance 
 showed that they had been taken in very deep water, the 
 eyes having a swelled appearance, almost to bursting, caused 
 by having been suddenly drawn from the pressure of " the 
 deep, deep sea." Since writing the above, I was presented 
 with a specimen of a very light pinkish color, weighing just 
 one and three-quarter pounds (January 2, 1865). A French 
 gentleman saw it on my stand, and said it was a common 
 fish in France, known by the name of " rouget." For the 
 table, I found it no better than described above. Another 
 fish from the Northern waters, much like this fish, called 
 
 Northern sehastes, red sea-perch, rose-fish, 
 and snapper, is found here. Many years ago I saw some 
 
262 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 six of these fish in the Washington Market, which one of the 
 fishermen called " rose-fish," about the size of a two-pound 
 perch. Their color was of a carmine red over the whole 
 fish — perhaps a little lighter beneath — and a dark spot on 
 each side of the head. They were said to be equal to the 
 sea-bass. 
 
 Ling*. — This fish is taken in company with the cod, and 
 is considered inferior to that fish for the table. I find from 
 experience that the flesh is darker, not solid, and of an in- 
 sipid, sweet taste. No doubt if it could be bled (as it ap- 
 pears full of blood) in the tail, and hung up until, if possi- 
 ble, frozen stiff, it would be better flavored. Color of an 
 olive-brown, with dark spots on the back and fins. The 
 back fins extend from the head almost to the tail ; on the 
 under side the fin extends from the tail three parts of the 
 way towards the head. Weight about six pounds, and in 
 season from November to March, but not plenty, or only 
 occasionally so. 
 
 The London News, April 4, 1754, notices—" A lusty Fin- 
 gallon in Pill Lane eat, for a wager of four guineas, twelve 
 pounds of lyng, six pounds of bread, three pottles of pota- 
 toes, and afterwards drank very comfortable two pottles 
 of ale." 
 
 Pollack, or New York pollack, — This fish is an- 
 other of the cod family, but considered inferior as a table- 
 fish. There appear occasionally in our markets two vari- 
 eties. Thus, one is of a dark olive-green color on the back, 
 and lighter beneath, while the other is generally known as 
 the " black pollack" or " coal-fish," having a blackish-green 
 back with a silvery lateral line through its length. The 
 fins of both varieties are much in form and place as those of 
 the haddock; the head, however, is smooth and more 
 pointed. The average weight is about five to seven pounds. 
 I saw one of about five and a half pounds' weight in the 
 month of July, 1864, at Catherine Market. On dressing it, 
 the flesh was softer and much darker than the cod ; but the 
 fisherman said that many preferred them to that fish, and 
 
fish. 263 
 
 that lie sold them at higher prices when he could obtain 
 them. I, however, should decide in favor of the cod. They 
 are seldom very plentiful, but when found, it is generally in 
 the fall and winter months. In the month of November 
 they were very plentiful in New York, and sold at low 
 prices. 
 
 A very small fish, similar to the New York pollack both 
 as to color and location of fins, was sent to me, which was 
 found in a lot of smelts. Its length eight and three-quarter 
 inches, depth two and a quarter inches, and weighed six 
 ounces. The spines in the fins were very indistinct, being 
 both delicate and fleshy. I counted in the first dorsal 
 twelve ; second, twenty ; third, seventeen ; the first anal 
 twenty-five, second nineteen spines, some of which were so 
 small, that perhaps they were not all counted in. I think 
 it was the young of the New York pollack. I made a 
 sketch for future reference. It proved delicate eating. 
 
 Drum. — There appears to be not less than two varieties 
 of this fish occasionally found in our markets, one of which 
 is known as the " red drum," and the other the " black" or 
 " brown drum." They are a short, deep fish, with a high 
 round back, covered with large, stiff scales. Their usual 
 weight is from five to twenty pounds, and in season from 
 July to October. They are not prized as food, the flesh 
 being coarse and not well flavored, although a young drum, 
 especially the red drum, is pretty good. Two slices of a 
 large (lightish) red drum, which weighed twenty-three 
 pounds, I had fried, and found it rather dry and insipid ; 
 much like poor (large) halibut. These were cut off an ex- 
 cellent specimen, May 9, 1864, brought from the South. 
 
 There was a tradition that there were but ten species of 
 fish known to the Dutch when they discovered America, and 
 that when they caught the shad they named it elft (eleventh), 
 the bass twalft (twelfth), and the drum dertienen (thirteenth). 
 
 Yery large fish, and great numbers too, are sometimes 
 taken of this fish at one haul. The American Telegraphe, 
 August 8, 1795, notices one at Providence, Bhode Island, 
 
264 THE MARKET ASSISTANT.' 
 
 thus : " On Monday last, John Earle and sons caught with 
 a seine, at one draught, in Bristol Ferry, seven hundred and 
 nineteen drum-fish, weighing upwards of fifty pounds each." 
 Mies' Weekly Register, July 1833, also says : " Some days 
 ago, a haul was made in Great Egg Harbor Bay, near Bears- 
 ley's Point, Cape May, at which two hundred and eighteen 
 drum-fish were caught, their entire weight being from eight 
 thousand to nine thousand pounds. This is said to be the 
 largest haul of that description of fish ever made in that 
 bay." Another still larger, noticed as " A Great Haul of 
 Drum-Fish. — On Wednesday, June 5, 1804," says the post- 
 master of Oyster Ponds, Long Island, " one seine drew on 
 shore at this place, at a single haul, twelve thousand two 
 hundred and fifty fish, the average weight of which was 
 found to be thirty-three pounds, making in the aggregate 
 two hundred and two tons two hundred and fifty pounds. 
 This is undoubtedly the greatest haul of the kind ever 
 known in this country. A hundred witnesses are ready to 
 attest the truth of the above statement. They are used 
 for manure." 
 
 A curious circumstance is noticed in the Easlon (Md.) 
 Star, in the month of October, 1815 : " Three men from 
 Kent Island were lately fishing for drum, off Love Point, in 
 about twenty-five feet water, and having been there a con- 
 siderable time without success, a tlength (Haycock) one of 
 the party felt something move his line, and upon drawing it 
 in, found he had brought up a large earthen jug, and his 
 hook with the bait within it, which, being unable to extri- 
 cate, he broke the jug in pieces, when, to his utter surprise 
 and astonishment, he discovered a large catfish, fourteen 
 inches in length, which had been enveloped in the jug, and 
 swallowed his hook with the bait. It is supposed the jug was 
 lost from some vessel, and having settled at the bottom in a 
 perpendicular situation, the fish entered it, and not being 
 able to find its way out, continued there till grown too large 
 to get out at the mouth, and the bait having accidentally 
 fallen into it, was seized with avidity by the fish. The jug 
 
FISH. 265 
 
 must have been a long time at the bottom, as there was very 
 long grass and several large oysters adhering to it. Easton, 
 Md., June 20. Attested to by Thomas Goodhand, High 
 Legg, and Solomon Haycock." 
 
 Banded drum or grunts. — This fish (when found 
 here) has much of the appearance of the preceding, but 
 usually smaller in size. The color of the back is of a dusky 
 brown, sides and underneath lighter, with four dark or black 
 bands around the body. It is sometimes taken with the 
 weak-fish in nets, and makes more noise than that fish when 
 taken from the water, which no doubt is the cause of its 
 being known by the name of grunts. It is said the small 
 fish are equal to the porgee for the table, but the flesh is 
 somewhat coarser. In season from June to October, and 
 weight irom two to ten pounds, although one was sent to 
 me less than a half pound. 
 
 Fresh-water eusk. — One of these fish was presented 
 to me on Christmas morning, 1860, which weighed just one 
 and one-half pounds, measured seventeen and one-half 
 inches in length, and seven and one-half inches around the 
 shoulders. The color of a brownish green on the sides and 
 back, and underneath of a yellowish white, covered over 
 with black blotches, irregularly. It also had a black spot 
 on each side of the tail where it joins the fin, with a yellow- 
 ish circle around it. 
 
 The fish was covered over with a thick mucus, more so 
 than the black-fish. The mouth full of small, sharp teeth, 
 on the upper jaw they extended back on the roof of the 
 mouth ; the lips were fleshy, and the upper jaw, from about 
 half way running to the corners of the mouth, appeared a 
 loose or jointed part, which could drop over the corners of 
 the mouth. The tongue was large and round. 
 
 This fish being fresh I prepared its flesh to eat, but found 
 it difiicult to clean, from the great quantity of mucus. I 
 then skinned it, with some difficulty, fried it, when I found 
 the flesh very short and tender, but sweet and well-tasted, 
 somewhat like the roes or melt of a he-shad. 
 
266 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 3falasheganay or Mack sheep-head. — This is one 
 of the lake, or fresh-water fish, shaped somewhat like the 
 porgee. The color of a dark greenish gray on back, crossed 
 with darkish bands, silvery sides, and yellowish underneath. 
 It is said to be quite a savory fish for the table. Weight 
 usually about three pounds. Another more common fish of 
 the lakes, called 
 
 JLake sheep-head, is found much larger and quite 
 plentiful at Buffalo, where it is considered a poor, dry, 
 tasteless fish, and seldom used for the table. 
 
 Salt-water cat-fish. — These fish I have taken many 
 years ago, but were quite small specimens. They have but 
 two whiskers on the upper jaw, near the corner of their 
 mouth, and also two very small ones under their chin. 
 Color of a bluish black, with shades of green, lighter sides, 
 and white underneath. Dr. Mitchell notices " a splendid 
 fish of this species, twenty inches long, four inches deep, 
 and three and one-half inches wide. Taken June 30, 1814." 
 When skinned they are a very good pan-fish. 
 
 Lake cat-fish. — These are of a much larger variety, 
 and very much poorer for the table than any of the other 
 kinds, without some trouble is taken in their preparation. 
 They are of a muddy-brown color, with an ugly, large, round 
 head, and are caught in all the Western lakes and rivers. 
 I have read of some weighing above one hundred pounds, 
 but they are too coarse to be eatable food ; those under ten 
 pounds are, however, thought by some excellent eating, and 
 many of the Western people say they are the " Pride of the 
 Western waters," when properly prepared. They are gen- 
 erally very fat, and of course of an oily nature, which oil is 
 usually strong. The fish should be parboiled to extract the 
 oil, then stuffed and roasted. Then, I am told, they are ex- 
 cellent. 
 
 The Western Spy, in 1817, notices : "A catfish was taken 
 by a trout line opposite Cincinnati, Ohio, on Monday last, 
 the dimensions of which, by actual measurement, were five 
 feet and a half in length, four feet girth, twelve inches be- 
 
msh. 267 
 
 tween the eyes, and nineteen across the breast. Weight 
 one hundred and seventeen pounds ! Such was the power 
 of this fish, that the man who took him was obliged to shoot 
 him in order to get him ashore." Then again : "A catfish 
 was caught in Peoria Lake, on Friday (May, 1840) morning 
 last, by Mr. George Oakley, which weighed one hundred 
 and forty-one pounds. It was five feet long, three and a 
 half feet round, and twelve inches between the eyes. This 
 is believed to be the largest fish ever caught here, that 
 caught by Mr. Kellar, a year or two since, weighing one 
 hundred and thirty-two pounds only, though it is several 
 pounds less than one caught near Pekin, ten miles below 
 here, about a year ago. Mr. Oakley having presented us 
 with a sample of this, we are able to pronounce the quality 
 excellent, and in no respect inferior to those of smaller size." 
 — Hazard's U. S. Register, vol. ii., page 304. 
 
 The Chronicle Express (January 17, 1804) notices an Ohio 
 catfish " was brought from the Ohio for the purpose of being 
 presented to the largest and heaviest landlord in the city 
 (Philadelphia). Mr. George Brown, sign of the "Falstaff," 
 being the fortunate landlord — lie weighed one hundred and 
 eighty and one-half pounds more than any that could be 
 found — he received the fish and regaled forty guests with 
 the same. "Weight of the fish thirty-nine and one-half 
 pounds gutted ; length three feet six inches ; across the head 
 ten inches ; between the eyes eight and one-half inches ; 
 mouth seven and three-quarter inches. Pro Bono — Phila- 
 delphia." 
 
 A Cincinnati paper (June, 1844) notices : a monster " Cat- 
 fish was caught a few days since in the mouth of the Lick- 
 ing, opposite Cincinnati (Ohio), which measured nine feet 
 five inches in length, nine inches between the eyes, and 
 weighing four hundred and forty-seven pounds !" 
 
 Golden mullet, mullet sucker, red horse, or 
 bram. — This beautiful variety of the sucking species is 
 also known by Richardson as the Gilt Sucking Carp. A 
 very fine specimen of this beautiful fresh-water fish, 
 
268 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 weighing just two pounds, was sent to me in 1861. The 
 color was beautifully variegated with yellow, green, red, 
 etc., and the fins quite red. Its shape differs from the com- 
 mon sucker, the body being much deeper, with a smaller 
 head in proportion, and the scales much larger. The flesh 
 was sweet, but a little dry and quite full of small bones. It 
 is not much admired as a table-fish. The season is in the 
 winter and spring months. They are sometimes quite plen- 
 tiful. 
 
 8ea eel. — This large eel, I am told by the fishermen, is 
 occasionally found in the market, but as they are not much 
 esteemed for the table, are seldom found on their stands. 
 Their color is quite brown on the back, and underneath a 
 smutty white. 
 
 In the London News, January 27, 1764, is found the fol- 
 lowing : " A salt-water eel, seven feet long, twenty-three 
 inches round, and weighing thirty-six pounds, which had 
 been taken in the shallows near Sheerness, was brought to 
 Billingsgate, and thought to be the largest of the kind 
 which has appeared at that market for some years. It 
 was bought by a fishmonger in Westminster." — N. Y. 
 Gazette, April 16. 
 
 ' Tunny, horse-mackerel. — This extraordinary large 
 fish is one of the mackerel species, and has much the form 
 of the common mackerel. The color of the back is of a 
 grayish-black, sides bright and silvery, and underneath 
 nearly white. Inside of the mouth is quite black. Like all 
 the very large fish, such as the halibut, sword-fish, sturgeon, 
 etc., when found in the markets it is cut in pieces. The 
 flesh is considered good, and some say superior to the sword- 
 fish. Dr. Timothy D wight, in his " Travels," says of this 
 fish : " The horse-mackerel formerly frequented this coast 
 in immense numbers, and, in the season, were constantly to 
 be found in the markets (Newport). But about the close of 
 the Eevolutionary War they forsook our waters, and have 
 not made their appearance since. They were estimated a 
 great delicacy, and are the largest of the mackerel species." 
 
fish. 269 
 
 Storer also notices one taken near Cape Ann, fifteen feet in 
 length, and weighing about one thousand pounds. " After 
 preparing two barrels of the fish for Boston and New York, 
 the remainder was sold in our markets (Boston), and many 
 of our citizens were enabled to feast themselves on its most 
 delicate meat, resembling much in appearance lean pork, 
 and the best of mackerel in taste." 
 
 The Gazette of the U. S., May 24, 1798, says : " A horse- 
 mackerel was lately caught at Provincetown, Cape Cod, 
 which weighed from eight to nine hundred weight. He got 
 entangled in the eel-grass, where the tide left him, and was 
 drawn out with a boat-hook. A large number of the inhab- 
 itants were fed from it for several days, sending their chil- 
 dren to cut pieces as it lay on the beach. From the caul 
 and remnants of the carcass twenty-eight gallons of oil were 
 obtained." In 1805 a tunny, or a fish of this kind, was 
 stranded at Cat Cove. Its measurement was nine feet and 
 five inches long, weighing nine hundred and twenty-five 
 pounds." 
 
 This fish, or many of them, were, no doubt, the cause of 
 a great excitement about the years 1815 to 1818, on the 
 eastern coast, and some quite near the Boston harbor. 
 Every month or two during that period, reports and affi- 
 davits were presented to the public of having seen, been 
 chased, or hairbreadth escapes from a — or several — sea- 
 serpents, which were represented as being one hundred or 
 more feet in length, with a body as large as a barrel and a 
 head larger than a horse's. In fact, all sorts of descriptions 
 were given of it, or them. The excitement about it induced a 
 Captain Rich to fit out a vessel with all sorts of instruments 
 for its capture ; and this he accomplished, as appears from 
 a letter found in the Boston News, dated September 4, 1818. 
 (See Commercial Advertiser, September 7, 1818.) 
 
 " Last night a messenger arrived in town with news that 
 the sea-serpent had been captured. The town, as you may 
 well suppose, was all in a bustle. This morning a schooner 
 arrived with a fish on board, said to be the monster. Ex- 
 
270 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 pectation was still on tip-toe — people flocking to the wharves 
 — and every mouth filled with the cry of the sea-serpent is 
 taken. About twelve o'clock he was publicly exhibited at 
 twenty-five cents per sight — and lo ! he was nothing more 
 nor less than an albicore, or what is more commonly called 
 a horse-mackerel, measuring nine feet in length, and four 
 or five feet in circumference. It is the opinion of Captain 
 Eich, who sailed in quest of the sea-monster, and who took 
 this fish, that he is the identical one that has long terrified 
 the credulous Bostonians." 
 
 "The fish caught," says another account, "is of the 
 mackerel species, and is the thurry, or horse-mackerel." 
 Another account says : " The fish now exhibiting has been 
 well known from the earliest ages. It is the tunny 
 fish, of the mackerel genus. It is sometimes entitled 
 the great mackerel, and by seamen generally called the 
 albicore." 
 
 In 1846 one of these fish was found stranded on the flats 
 near the Beverly Bridge, so says the Salem Gazette, where 
 it is known as the horse-mackerel, or albicore. " Its entire 
 length was nine feet six inches ; girth near the pectorals, 
 seven feet ; form elongated ; color, back nearly black, sides 
 silvery, beneath whitish ; scales on the back very large ; 
 dorsal fins, two, the first of which is somewhat peculiar, con- 
 sisting of twelve very strong rays, connected by a dark- 
 colored membrane, and shutting entirely into a groove, so 
 that, when unexpanded, the fin is perfectly invisible. The 
 second fin resembles that of a shark, and between this and 
 the tail are ten Unlets; presenting the appearance of the 
 teeth of a large saw ; a similar succession of finlets exists 
 between the tail and the anal fin ; tail is lunated, measur- 
 ing across its extremity three feet and two inches. 
 
 " The flesh, which somewhat resembles that of fresh meat, 
 is used as an article of food in those places where the fish 
 abounds." 
 
 In the New York Daily Times, July 17, 1856, there ap- 
 pears a notice of " an immense horse-mackerel captured 
 
FISH. 271 
 
 on Saturday afternoon at Nahant, which measured nine feet 
 in length, and weighed nearly one thousand pounds." 
 
 Dolphin. — This beautiful-colored fish is sometimes 
 brought to our markets, and when found it is not much 
 thought of for the table. They are only handsome in their 
 various and beautiful rainbow colorings while living ; in 
 death, however, they lose these changeable colors. Their 
 proportions and appearance are quite ordinary, having a 
 sharp, deep head and a flat-sided body, which tapers down 
 to the tail. A large dorsal fin also extends from the head, 
 and runs tapering down to the strongly-forked tail. The 
 flesh of a young dolphin, of some six pounds weight, I 
 found flakey and white, with a taste much like the common 
 crab, but rather dry eating. The large fish are strong, and 
 not pleasant tasted, but perhaps passable to a hungry man. 
 Professor Kalm, in his " Travels," in the year 1748, says of 
 the dolphin : " They are eaten with thick butter when boiled, 
 and sometimes fried, and afford a palatable food, but rather 
 sometimes dry." Another species, called bottle-headed 
 dolphin, I had the pleasure of seeing in Washington Mar- 
 ket (August 24, 1855), of about eight pounds weight. Color 
 on the back and sides was a metallic blue, and a dirty sil- 
 very appearance under, covered over with small speckled 
 dark spots. It had a large round head, the body tapering 
 gradually to the tail, which was largely forked. The top or 
 dorsal fin running from opposite the gill-openings to the 
 tail, where it ends very small ; the under or anal fin running 
 from the tail, and increasing in size, almost half way up the 
 fish ; eyes large, and near the mouth. It was called by one 
 of the fishermen of Washington Market a " truter." In the 
 journal of Franklin, who writes 1726, October 6 : " We 
 hooked a dolphin this morning that made us a good break- 
 fast." Again he says : " Since eleven o'clock we have 
 struck three fine dolphins, which are a great refreshment 
 to us." The death of Major Job Sumner of the Massachu- 
 setts line of the American army in 1789 (September 16), 
 was occasioned from the effects of eating dolphin taken off 
 
272 THE MAKKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 Cape Hatteras, which was supposed to have been poisoned. 
 He died in New York city, and was buried from the " City 
 Tavern" (afterwards known as the " City Hotel") in St. 
 Paul's Churchyard. (See Daily Advertiser, September 17, 
 1789.) 
 
 Saw-fish. — This large fish is considered a novelty in 
 these waters, as it is seldom taken so far north. However, 
 I have heard of their having been brought to our city, and 
 that they are eatable. The New York Gazette, etc., July 29, 
 1800, notices : — " On the 6th instant, a large saw-fish was 
 caught at Cape May, in shoal water, which is thirteen feet 
 long, girt five feet five, and beak (or saw) three feet in 
 length. It is preserved in Peale's Museum, in Philadelphia." 
 The Commercial Advertiser, July 14, 1814, contains news 
 from Charleston, July 6, as follows : " Two saw-fish were 
 caught on Saturday and Monday last, in Mr. W. S. Barnet's 
 mill-pond, on James Island. The one measured fourteen 
 feet long, and four and a half feet across the fins ; the other, 
 fifteen feet long, and, fixe feet across the fins. We under- 
 stand these fish have been presented to the Philosophical 
 Society of this city." We also find in the Neiv World, July 
 24, 1843, notice of an enormous specimen having been taken 
 near Cape May Light-house, in January, 1843, measuring 
 about eighteen feet long, the saw of which was between four 
 and five feet in length." The New York Sun, August, 1856, 
 also notices the taking of a monster saw-fish, in a seine, near 
 Mobile. The correspondent states : " They tied a rope to 
 the saw and brought it into shallow water. Two mules, with 
 ten to fourteen persons, with all their strength, could move 
 it only a few feet at a time. After much exertion, they got 
 it in water a foot deep, when began the measuring. From 
 the end of the saw to the end of the tail measured nineteen 
 feet nine inches ; from fin to fin, across the back, eight feet ; 
 depth, from back to stomach, three feet. Dr. Moore thinks 
 its weight three thousand pounds. The liver alone weighed 
 four hundred pounds, from which a barrel of oil was ob- 
 tained. A thousand eggs, from the size of a marble to 
 
fish. 273 
 
 twelve inches in circumference, were taken from it. It 
 presented the appearance of a boat turned bottom up- 
 wards." 
 Bayonet-fish, giant, or broad-scaled herring*. 
 
 — This very large, scarce fish, especially in the New York 
 markets, has appeared there, to my knowledge, but four 
 times, and these, I believe, were taken off the Jersey coast. 
 The two specimens I saw in Washington Market, July 12, 
 1865, were called by some fishermen, "Torpon;" another 
 gave them the name of " carp ;" but, as the fish appears not 
 generally known, and had one prominent feature, in the form 
 of a stiff, bony spine (which is much like a bayonet), con- 
 nected with the lower end of the dorsal fin, I have given it 
 the name of bayonet-fish. The largest of the two fish 
 measured just five feet seven inches in length, and not 
 above fifteen inches wide, which width continued almost 
 down to the tail. I supposed it would weigh about one 
 hundred pounds. It had somewhat the form and color of a 
 slim herring, and with a mouth which opened on the tqp of 
 the head ; or, rather the under jaw was so long that, when its 
 mouth was shut, it presented its chin on a line with the top 
 of its head. The mouth opened down very large, the jaws 
 being without teeth, but having very hard, rough surfaces, 
 and of a dark greenish color inside. 1 purchased the head 
 and shoulders of one (which assisted me to make a drawing 
 of the fish), and boiled the best part of it. The flesh I found 
 full of strong bones, with little flavor and dry eating. One 
 of the fishermen (Moschett) said he had often met with 
 it in the Mediterranean, where it was called serac ; but, as 
 he had, several years before (1857), given the same name to 
 a very large fish which, from description, resembled the 
 broad-finned sword-fish, I concluded he did not know much 
 more than I did about the fish. This latter fish was sold by 
 Messrs. Samuel B. Miller & Brother, Fulton Market, in the 
 month of August, 1857, who called it a broad-finned 
 needle-fish. The body was much the shape of a Spanish 
 mackerel, about six feet in length, including its long bill — 
 
 18 
 
274 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 the upper one longest — and weighed abont one hundred 
 pounds. The color of the back was dark blue, lighter 
 underneath, and with scales about an inch long, pointed, 
 horny, and quite stiff. The back fin was fan-like, and, when 
 closed down, lay hid (to a side view) in a crevice of the 
 back. I heard it was pronounced good eating. 
 
 Ribbon-fish, or silvery hair-tail. — One of these 
 scarce fish was presented to me by Messrs. Miller & Co., 
 Fulton Market, October 21, 1859. It was a lengthy, flat- 
 bodied fish, with the top or dorsal fin extending the whole 
 length of the body, and ending in a small, thin, hairy tail, 
 and a small fin near the gill-openings on the side. Color 
 silverish, and somewhat the appearance of the Spanish 
 mackerel. This specimen — no doubt, a full-grown one — was 
 just forty-two inches long, and the width, at the widest part 
 (near the head), three and a half inches ; about the middle, 
 three and a half inches, and gradually running smaller to a 
 hairy point or tail. It weighed just two and a half pounds. 
 The under jaw was longest, and the mouth contained, in 
 front, four long barbed teeth, and smaller ones along the 
 jaw. Its flesh was white and sweet, but dry and sinewy. 
 Since the above was written, a larger specimen was sent to 
 me by the same parties, on the 30th of June, 1860, which 
 weighed exactly one pound more ; and, no doubt, it was an 
 old one, as the under jaw had the long teeth, which ap- 
 peared to have been, some time before, broken off. This 
 one measured over four feet in length. 
 
 Rabbit-fish, or lineated puffer.— A fine specimen 
 of this rare fish was also presented to me by the same firm 
 as above, July 8? 1858. The mouth somewhat resembled 
 that of the rabbit, which, no doubt, gave it the name. The 
 four teeth in front close together like the parrot's bill. 
 Color of a dark olive-brown, without scales, and somewhat 
 the appearance of a Spanish mackerel. It had small gill- 
 openings at the fin on the sides, and a soft, white, pouched 
 belly (full of small sharp spines), which it has the power to 
 extend or puff out like a bladder. It weighed just five and 
 
fish. 275 
 
 a half pounds. This fish, and the following, were too long 
 out of the water to be eaten. 
 
 Spotted lampugus. — One of this species of fish was 
 also presented, by the same firm, August 6, 1859. It was 
 quite a flat fish, but beautifully speckled with light blue on 
 the silvery sides, and darker on the back, where were also 
 some fifteen perceptible black spots running along the. 
 length of the body on each side. The lower (or ventral) 
 fins, lay in an indenture under the belly. It measured six- 
 teen and a half inches in length, three and a half inches 
 across the widest part of the body, and weighed just one 
 pound. 
 
 Sea-wolf^ sea-cat, or tiger-fish. — To the same firm 
 as above I am again much indebted for a fine specimen of 
 this ill-looking fish, presented April 29, 1858, which was 
 taken off the coast. The length was three feet, color of a 
 bluish-gray, with twelve dark stripes running across the 
 body, and with a flabby dorsal fin running nearly the entire 
 length of the back ; pectoral or side fins large and broad, 
 with a mouth full of teeth — those in front being long and 
 sharp, and also irregular, while those in the upper jaw, or 
 roof of the mouth, were flat and very hard, as, no doubt, its 
 principal food is the oyster, clam, and other shell-fish. They 
 are regarded by the fishermen as unfit to be eaten ; but De 
 Kay says " his flesh is by no means unsavory ; when smoked, 
 it is said to have somewhat the flavor of salmon." I have 
 also since been informed they were delicate eating either 
 fried or boiled. 
 
 American angler, fishing-frog, sea-devil, 
 monk-fish* goose-fish. — This big-headed, ugly-looking 
 fish is not an uncommon one in our waters, as they have 
 been taken in our harbor occasionally. A specimen was 
 caught by George Bowman, in Gowanus Bay, on the shore, 
 stranded, in the month of November, 1855. Mr. Bowman 
 was going to dig soft clams, when he discovered it on the 
 shore alive. He put his spade out towards its mouth, 
 when the fish seized it, and held fast until taken to a house, 
 
276 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 where it lived some six hours after. It measured three feet 
 two inches long, and would weigh above sixty pounds; 
 much the form of a toad-fish, with a very large mouth and 
 throat. The color of the upper surface of the body was 
 brown, the lower part white. It had a pair of strong fins 
 under the jaw, some the appearance of a hand, with which 
 it is said to stir up the mud and sand when it wishes to con- 
 ceal itself from its prey. The flesh had much the appear- 
 ance of that from a large codfish. I have no knowledge of 
 its flesh having been eaten, yet I believe it to be good from 
 its looks. In the month of November, 1858, one of these 
 ill-looking monsters was captured at the foot of Christopher- 
 street, North River. "It was," says the Tribune, "about 
 four feet in length, and weighed twenty-five pounds. The 
 head was similar in shape to the rim of a man's hat, the 
 body resembling the body of a codfish. On the top of the 
 head, about six inches from the snout, were two eyes as 
 large as a cent, while just beyond were two small horns, 
 surrounded at the base by long hair. The mouth was set 
 around with sharp teeth, and of sufficient capacity to take 
 in the head of a child six or eight years old, and its great 
 tongue seemed to be covered with little prickles. It had no 
 gills, and the only breathing apertures were two holes in 
 the snout. On each side were two great fins, while, pro- 
 truding from the belly, were two hands with five fingers, 
 and almost as perfect as a human hand." A curious ac- 
 count of this fish, and a wild sea-duck called " old wife," 
 is found in the Philadelphia Eepository and Register, as 
 follows : 
 
 " Near Salem, in the month of October, 1803, some lads 
 were fishing near Baking Island, when they discovered a fish 
 struggling on the surface of the water ; on a nearer ap- 
 proach one of the lads took the gaff and pulled it into the 
 boat. It proved to be a monk-fish in a swollen state. The 
 lads, in want of bait, cut the fish open, when, to their utter 
 astonishment, out hopped a live bird, commonly called an 
 old wife. It was too feeble to escape, and the lads secured 
 
fish. 277 
 
 it and brought it on shore. It is still living, and may be 
 seen at Mr. Whittemore's tavern at Beverly." 
 
 The following anecdote is thus told : " Decatur, when at 
 Tunis, in 1805, frequently amused himself in pulling about 
 the harbor in his barge with his gun. On one of these oc- 
 casions he saw on the water a very remarkable fish, more 
 like a devil-fish than any thing else he had seen. His fond- 
 ness for natural history, which subsequently led to his mak- 
 ing a very valuable and rare collection of marine animals, 
 made him very desirous of possessing this novel specimen. 
 He pulled near, fired, and struck the animal, which sunk in 
 shoal water, where it could be seen on the bottom. Decatur, 
 eager to secure his prize, asked Reuben James, who was his 
 coxswain, to dive down and bring it up. Reuben hesitated, 
 and replying, ' I don't like to trouble that chap ; he looks 
 as if he would make an ugly customer,' declined the un- 
 profitable exploit. Decatur immediately went over himself, 
 and soon brought the strange monster to the surface. It 
 should be remembered that though Decatur was a captain 
 of a frigate, he was yet a young man, with a young man's 
 love of enterprise and adventure." 
 
 Lump-fish or jelly-fish. — One of these singular- 
 looking fish was presented to me on the 17th of June, 1858. 
 The color of the head and upper part of the body was of 
 a grayish-blue ; on the under side, a very light pale-blue, 
 and the whole fish has a semi-transparent look of a soft, 
 tremulous mass of flesh. The back also raises up, some- 
 what like the comb of an old fowl, with a short, square 
 head and a small, round mouth, when open. Just behind 
 the lower jaw, on the under side, is a round fringed suction, 
 which it no doubt uses to attach itself to the hard bottom 
 or rocks under the water, as its whole appearance denotes 
 it a sluggish swimmer. Three rows of horny tubercles 
 run its entire length — one commences above the eye and 
 runs to the tail, the next, at the gill-openings, runs below 
 the tail, and the third at the bottom, on each side of the 
 belly, which runs its length. It had no scales, but a rough, 
 
278 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 thick skin, and weighed about fi-ve pounds. One fine speci- 
 men of ten pounds weight was sent to me, which I had 
 boiled, and so soft was the thick, blue skin, that I could cut 
 it and peel it off the flesh very much like common jelly. 
 The flesh, however, yet adhered to its soft bones, but a 
 little more boiling and it came off easily. The skin was 
 soft and well-tasted, while the flesh was harder but sweet : 
 the bones were soft and porous and easily cut with a table- 
 knife. " Richardson informs us that the Greenlanders eat 
 its flesh either cooked or dried, and its skin raw, throwing 
 away the tubercles." They belong to the Northern Seas, 
 but are occasionally taken in our waters, from three to four 
 pounds, although they are sometimes found to weigh above 
 ten pounds. 
 
 Western mud-fish, or lake lawyer. — On the 18th 
 of November, 1858, I received a fine specimen of this scarce 
 fish (here), from the Messrs. Miller's, of Fulton Market, 
 brought, among other species of fresh-water fish, from 
 Lake Ontario. Its weight was just three pounds, and in 
 excellent condition, full of seed (or eggs), which appeared 
 much like flax-seed, and, like the black (and other bottom) 
 fish, covered with slime. Its color was mottled, of a green- 
 ish-brown on the back, and lighter underneath, covered with 
 large, thin, oblong scales. The dorsal, or back-fin, which 
 was about one and a half inches long, commenced half way 
 on the back, and ran along almost down to the tail. The 
 tail, of a lancet form. It had two fleshy points, half an 
 inch long, on each side of the nose ; small sunken eyes, and 
 a small oblong horny plate, back of the under-jaw or throat. 
 I had a small photograph taken of it, and afterwards pre- 
 pared it for the table. I found the flesh short and tender, 
 but with a disagreeable, rank smell and taste. It no doubt 
 would have been much sweeter if skinned, but I consider it 
 unfit for human food. 
 
 Fresh-water gar, buffalo bony pike, or lake 
 bill-llsh. — This appears a species of the gar, but rather a 
 formidable one, if we should judge from its appearance. 
 
jtsil 279 
 
 It is usually taken in the large lakes, where it is found very 
 large. Its flesh has but few admirers. The body is almost 
 round, armed with a hard coat of mail, and a bill or mouth 
 about one-fifth of its whole length. Common weight from 
 two to ten pounds, although the following will show that 
 they are taken occasionally above one hundred pounds. 
 Niles, in his Register of November, 1823, notices one which 
 is called a pike, as having been " killed with a rifle in the 
 Forked Deer Eiver, near the town of Jackson, in the Chick- 
 asaw country. Its length was six feet, girth three feet, and 
 weight one hundred and fifty pounds. Mr. Webb saw him 
 in the water the day before he was killed, and shot him in 
 the side with his rifle ; but the bullet seemed to make no 
 impression. The next day he got into a tree, sloping over 
 the water, and at his approach shot him at the juncture 
 near the gills, between the head and body, and killed him. 
 Three or four other bony-scaled pike have been seen near 
 the same place, and fired at repeatedly by Mr. Haroldson 
 and Dr. Collier, but without effect. All of them have a 
 practice of rising every few minutes to the surface and of 
 spouting up water, frequently to the height of ten feet, and 
 the blowing could be heard from one to two hundred yards." 
 
 Another of our city press of 1859, has a notice of a " Mr. 
 L. TV. Scales, now in this (Keokuk Gate) city, has a fish 
 called alligator gar, which beats any thing we ever saw 
 before that came out of the Mississippi. It is over eight feet 
 long, three feet in circumference, and weighed rising three 
 hundred pounds when taken out of the river. It was killed 
 in the Arkansas Eiver, a few miles above its junction with 
 the Mississippi. It is his intention to exhibit it." 
 
 The following, however, is either a pretty tough or a 
 curious fish-story, which is found in the New York Sun, 
 June, 1856. Mr. E. W. Fuller, writes to the Franklin (St. 
 Mary's) Journal, and says : " Yesterday my workmen hauled 
 up into my saw-mill a hollow log, in which we found a large 
 fish of the genus filibuster, judging from his equipments. 
 It resembled both the alligator gar and shark, apparently 
 
280 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 being a cross between them, with the tushes of the gar and 
 a triple row of worked teeth. It was about seven feet 
 long, in girth measuring thirty-one inches, with a coat of 
 mail similar to the gar. In his stomach were found three 
 dollars and seventeen cents in small silver and copper coins 
 — there being twenty-nine pieces — together with a good- 
 sized bowie-knife and scabbard, and a revolving pistol with 
 five barrels, all loaded and capped ready for instant service. 
 He appeared as ferocious as a tiger, and would snap and 
 bite at every thing in his reach. The power of his jaws 
 was immense. He bit the end off from a piece of plank two 
 inches thick by four wide. Altogether he was an ugly cus- 
 tomer, which I would not fancy to meet in his own element." 
 
 Great sura-fish or head-fish* — This singular-look- 
 ing fish is occasionally taken in our bays near the coast. 
 The name — head-fish — given it, is caused no doubt from its 
 appearance of a fish's head, and of sun-fish from its round- 
 ish form, with the latter half of its body fringed with fins or 
 flippers, which gives it an appearance of the sun's rays. 
 The color on the back is of a dark gray, and shades down 
 to quite white underneath. Only the very young are con- 
 sidered fit to eat. (Storer calls this peculiar-looking fish 
 the short sun-fish. 
 
 The Essex Register, September, 1835, notices a "Bare 
 Fish. — On Tuesday last a pleasure party, in a boat from 
 Beverly, discovered a large sun-fish between Baker's Island 
 and Halfway Bock ; they succeeded in taking him, and car- 
 ried him into Beverly. He weighed six hundred and forty 
 pounds, and it is said to have been the first ever brought 
 into Beverly or Salem. His skin has been taken off and 
 stuffed, and will probably be exhibited as a curiosity. We 
 understand that one was carried into Marblehead about 
 twenty years ago." Hazard's U, S. Register, vol. iii., 1840, 
 notices : " A monster fish, called sun-fish, was taken near Mr. 
 Veazie's bathing-house, end of Warren Bridge (says the 
 Bunker Hill Aurora). It was alive and swimming in the 
 creek. It was attacked with boat-hooks, and exhibited a 
 
FISH. 281 
 
 good deal of fight and ferocity, for which it was knocked on 
 the head, and having also swam with great violence against 
 the stone wharf, it was easily captured. It measured about 
 four feet in length, two and a half in width, and a foot thick, 
 and weighed two hundred and twenty-seven and a half 
 pounds. We are told that above a gallon of oil was ob- 
 tained from the liver alone." 
 
 Then we find in the New York Tribune, August 4, 1857, 
 another notice of " An enormous sun-fish was captured at 
 Hempstead Bay, Long Island, on Saturday last (August 1st), 
 by a party of gentlemen on a pleasure-excursion. The sup- 
 position was that it had come in the bay at high-water, and 
 the receding tide prevented its return. Its dimensions were 
 some nine feet six inches in length, by about four in breadth, 
 and its weight was nearly or quite one thousand pounds. 
 This one is supposed to be the largest of the kind of which 
 we have any record." 
 
 The same paper, one year afterwards (on the 6th of 
 August, 1858), says : " Two of these clumsy inhabitants of 
 the briny deep were captured at Sianconset, Nantucket, last 
 week, one weighing over jive hundred pounds /" 
 
 Dr. Samuel L. Mitchell notices another specimen, cap- 
 tured in the lower bay within Sandy Hook, weighing about 
 two hundred pounds. 
 
 "White porpoise. — An enormous fish, called by some 
 white (whale or) porpoise, was caught in the Saginaw River, 
 by three Canadians, and was exhibited here (in New York) 
 in the month of January, 1860, under the name of white 
 tvhale. Its weight was said to have been two thousand 
 three hundred and sixty pounds, and about twenty feet in 
 length. It was considered a rare specimen of the porpoise. 
 
 O'Callhan notices "A certain fish of considerable size, 
 snow-white in color, round in its body, and blowing water 
 out of its head," made its appearance in the North Eiver, 
 in the month of March, 164:7, at the time of a great flood. 
 He says " all the inhabitants were lost in wonder, for, at the 
 same instant that this fish appeared to us, we had the first 
 
282 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 thunder and lightning this year." Barnum has shown sev- 
 eral live specimens in his American Museum, among his 
 collections of rare fish, and at the time (July 13, 1865) of the 
 burning of his Museum, he lost two fine specimens which 
 cost him some seven thousand dollars. 
 
 Torpedo-fish, cramp-fish, or numb-fish. — This 
 fish is one of the ray species, with a body and head almost 
 circular, and the tail tapering down to a point. Its color is 
 of a dull yellow, marked with spots, eyes very small. The 
 flesh is considered equal to the common ray, and the usual 
 weight is from five to fifteen pounds. We, however, notice 
 one in Niks' Register, November, 1823, that is represented 
 as weighing above one hundred pounds. This extraordi- 
 nary fish was " taken off Martha's Yineyard, by one of the per- 
 sons who were angling for cod. The animal was computed 
 to weigh from one hundred and fifty to two hundred pounds. 
 It was anteriorly of a roundish or circular figure, ending 
 backward in a tail, making the whole resembling, in some 
 sort, an old-fashioned periwig, with a tie behind. Yfhen 
 displayed on the deck, it, on being touched by the fisher- 
 men, struck them with a cramp through the hands, arms, 
 and shoulders. It had been hooked through one of its fins, 
 just fairly enough to hold it securely and have it on board. 
 The flesh was very tenacious of life, and during its twitch- 
 ing and velications made the murderers (who were flaying 
 it) feel its narcotic and sedative effects. The skin was 
 finally taken off, and with its ichthyological character is now 
 in New York." Length five feet, breadth three feet two 
 inches, and the color of the back a pale chestnut brown, with 
 a white belly. The Commercial Advertiser, August 12, 1822, 
 also contains an account of a " torpedo which was found in 
 shoal water, near one of the islands in the harbor of Port- 
 land (Maine). It was kept in a tub of water for ten or 
 twelve hours, after which it languished and died." 
 
 Vampyre of the ocean, or devil-fish. — One of 
 these monsters of the ray species was taken and brought 
 into New York in the month of September, 1823. It is par- 
 
fish. 283 
 
 ticularly described in the press by Dr. Mitchell, who says 
 the fishing-smack " Una" had returned from a cruise off 
 Delaware Bay. " She sailed about three weeks before (9th 
 September) from New York, for the express purpose of 
 catching an enormous fish, which had been reported to fre- 
 quent the ocean a few leagues beyond Cape May and Cape 
 Henlopen. The adventurers in this bold enterprise have 
 been successful" in taking this vampyre of the ocean. " Its 
 strength was such that, after the body had been penetrated 
 by two strong and well-formed gigs of the best tempered 
 iron, the shank of one of them was broken off and the other 
 singularly bent. The boat contained three intrepid men, 
 John- Patchen, Theophilus Beebe, and William Potter, was 
 connected with the wounded inhabitant of the deep by a 
 warp of the line. The celerity with which the fish swam 
 could only be compared with that of a harpooned whale. 
 The weight of this fish after death was such, three pairs of 
 oxen, one horse, and twenty-two men, all pulling together, 
 with the surge of the Atlantic wave to help, would not con- 
 vey it on the dry beach. It was estimated from this to 
 equal four tons and a half, or perhaps five tons. 
 
 "The size was enormous. From one wing or pectoral 
 fin to another, expanded like the wing of an eagle, meas- 
 ured eighteen feet, the distance from the snout to the end 
 of the tail fourteen feet, and length of the tail four feet. 
 "Width of the mouth two feet nine inches." 
 
 This monster, or the stuffed skin, was exhibited as a 
 show, in the month of December following, in a wooden 
 building. " A little boy, attempting to gratify his curiosity 
 by looking through an aperture of the building, was struck 
 in the eye by the blade of a penknife from the interior, and 
 it was thought he would lose it. The people thereupon 
 took the law into their own hands, destroyed the building, 
 and tore the vampyre to pieces, and secured the person of 
 the offender." 
 
 In the month of August, Niles, in his Register, notices " a 
 very large individual of the species, the devil-fish, was taken 
 
284 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 in Delaware Bay, near the lighthouse on Cape May, Satur- 
 day afternoon last. It was harpooned near the shore, but 
 broke loose, however; having returned to shallow water, 
 it was a second time harpooned and secured. It was 
 about nineteen feet in breadth, and about twelve feet 
 in length from head to tail ; weight appeared to exceed 
 a ton." 
 
 Whale. — There are several species of this enormous 
 fish, among which those commonly known are the great 
 Greenland whale, the spermaceti, the humpback, razor-back, 
 finback, right whale, and the grampus ; some of which are 
 occasionally taken in or near our New York harbor, when 
 they are usually cut up to extract the oil. The flesh is edi- 
 ble, and, although very coarse, is eaten by many nations and 
 by some whalemen. I was informed by Judge Meigs that 
 while he was in Bermuda in 1794, he ate of the whale's 
 flesh, and thought it much like coarse, tough beef. He also 
 says the negroes there are very fond of it, and the old 
 wenches beg of the whalemen for pieces after the blubber 
 has been cut off. 
 
 Charles Francis Hall, in his " Arctic Researches, and Life 
 among the Esquimaux," informs us that " the skin of Green- 
 land whale is a great treat to the Esquimaux, who eat it 
 raw. The black skin is three-fourths of an inch thick, and 
 looks like India-rubber. It is good eating in its raw state, 
 even for a white man, as I know from experience ; but when 
 boiled and soused in vinegar, it is most excellent. 
 
 " I afterwards saw the natives cutting up the krang (meat) 
 of the whale into such huge slices as their wives could 
 carry ; and as they worked, so did they keep eating. When 
 I saw the natives actually feasting on the raw flesh of the 
 whale, I thought to myself, ' Why cannot I do the same ?' 
 and the response to my question came rushing through my 
 brain, independent of prejudice, * Because of my education 
 —because of the customs of my people from time im- 
 memorial. 
 
 " As I stood upon the rocky shore observing the busy 
 
fish. 285 
 
 natives at work carving the monster before me, my eyes 
 caught a group around one of the vertebrae, from which they 
 were slicing and eating thin pieces of ligament that looked 
 white and delicious as the breast of a Thanksgiving tur- 
 key ! At once I made up my mind to join in partaking of 
 the inviting (?) viands actually smoking in my sight. Tak- 
 ing from the hands of Ugaring his seal-knife, I peeled off a 
 delicate slice of this spinal ligament, closed my eyes, and 
 cried out, ' Turkey !' But it would not go down so easy. 
 Not because the stomach had posted up its sentinel to say, 
 * No whale can come down here !' but because it was tougher 
 than any bull-beef of Christendom ! For half an hour I 
 tried to masticate it, and then found it was even tougher 
 than when I began. At length I discovered I had been 
 making a mistake in the way to eat it. The Esquimaux 
 custom is to get as vast a piece into their distended mouths 
 as they can cram, and then boa-constrictor-like, first lubri- 
 cate it over, and so swallow it quite whole. 
 
 " One old woman kindly came to me and offered a gen- 
 erous slice of the ' whale gum' she was feasting on. Beach- 
 ing out my hand, with one stroke of her ' ood-loo' (a wo- 
 man's knife — an instrument like a mincing-knife), she severed 
 the white, fibrous strip quick as thought. It cut as old 
 cheese. Its taste was like unripe chestnuts, and its appeal- 
 ance like cocoa-nut meat. But I cannot say this experiment 
 left me a very great admirer of whale's gum, though, if the 
 struggle was for life, and its preservation depended on the 
 act, I would undoubtedly eat whale's gum until I got some- 
 thing better to my liking." 
 
 The great Greenland whale is the kind mostly sought 
 after by the fishermen. It is said to be a large, heavy ani- 
 mal, and the head alone makes a third of its bulk. It is 
 usually found from sixty to seventy feet long. There is, 
 however, one noticed in the Liverpool Mercury much larger. 
 " On the 3d of November, 1827, an immense species of the 
 Greenland whale was found on the coast of Belgium, dead, 
 about twelve miles distant from Ostend, by a crew of fisher- 
 
286 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 men. Their boat being of too small tonnage to move so 
 enormous a mass, they hailed two other boats to their as- 
 sistance, and the three together towed the whale towards 
 Ostend harbor, on entering which the warps by which it was 
 towed snapped, and it was cast on the sands east of the 
 harbor, where it was dissected, and afterwards exhibited in 
 Paris and London, I believe. Cuvier and the professors of 
 the Jardin des Plantes, estimated its age from nine hundred 
 to one thousand years ; and one proof of its great age is 
 in the cartilages of the fingers of the hands or side fins, 
 which are completely ossified, or converted into bone. Its 
 total length, ninety-five feet ; breadth, eighteen feet ; width 
 of tail, twenty-two and a half feet ; weight when found, 
 two hundred and forty-nine tons, or four hundred and eighty 
 thousand pounds. Quantity of oil extracted, four thousand 
 gallons." 
 
 Another species, called the razor-back whale, was found 
 near Willett's Point, on the north shore of Long Island, 
 fast between two rocks which the receding tide had left dry, 
 on the morning of the 10th of August, 1859. It proved to 
 be a young one, and probably strayed in the Sound in 
 search of food, where it got bewildered or frightened, and 
 ran ashore. It was nearly twenty-five feet long, and the 
 tail measured six feet across. 
 
 Niles, in his Register of 1846, says : " On the 3d (April) 
 instant, about thirty-six young whales were discovered in 
 York River, Yirginia, driven ashore by the late heavy gale, 
 about a mile or two from Yorktown, of Revolutionary mem- 
 ory. Boats were fitted out rapidly, and proceeded to cap- 
 ture the prizes." Another account of " something like a 
 whale :" — " A whale of an enormous size, measuring up- 
 wards of seventy feet in length and fifty in breadth, was on 
 Wednesday towed alongside of a South Sea whaler lying 
 at the mother bank, where it was decimated in the usual 
 manner for obtaining the largest quantity of oil. This fish 
 was observed on Friday, following a shoal of small fish 
 through the Needles' passage, which, though sufficient for a 
 
fish. 287 
 
 seventy-four to pass, was inadequate to that of this un- 
 wieldy monster, as it soon found itself on a shingle bank, 
 with the tide ebbing : consequently, notwithstanding the 
 most violent exertions to get off, which were seen for many 
 miles by the prodigious quantity of water thrown fifty or 
 sixty feet high, he remained an easy prize to several fisher- 
 men, who went off and cut his throat, from which, and 
 other wounds inflicted on itself, the sea was dyed for sev- 
 eral miles. The supposed value is <£500. A similar occur- 
 rence never happened before within the Isle of Wight." — 
 Found in the Commercial Advertiser, November 13, 1813. 
 The same paper, of the 11th of July, 1815, gives another 
 account of whales. " A gentleman from Long Branch in- 
 forms us that, on "Wednesday last, three large Greenland 
 whales were discovered off that place. One of them, sup- 
 posed to be eighty feet long, ran ashore on the bar at 
 nearly low- water, where he remained about three hours, 
 roaring loud enough to be heard at the distance of two or 
 three miles, and dashing the sand in every direction with 
 his tail. While he was lying in this situation, his associates 
 were plunging about as near to him as they could approach 
 with safety, constantly spouting and throwing around the 
 water, and manifesting the liveliest sympathy for their af- 
 flicted companion. When the tide rose, he worked himself 
 from the bar, wheeled about several times in. the water, 
 joined his companions, and, spouting in triumph, steered 
 his course to the northeast. 
 
 " By his weight and his struggles to extricate himself, he 
 had formed a deep gutter in the sand. 
 
 " On the 4th of July a large whale was caught near 
 Cheesequake, on the Jersey shore. It was discovered asleep 
 near the beach by a man who was mowing in a salt meadow. 
 The laborer, supposing the whale was dead, took an oar 
 and waded out to it ; while attempting with the oar to open 
 its mouth, it awoke, and rolled itself, like a log, seventy 
 or eighty yards upon the beach. The laborer, who had 
 escaped with difficulty, collected the people in the neigh- 
 
288 THE MAKKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 borliood, and with scythes and other instruments soon 
 killed it." 
 
 FISH — SMALL AND SCABCE. 
 
 Black perch, Mack bass. — These excellent perch are 
 taken in large numbers in the months of May, June, and 
 July, on the coast of Massachusetts, and sent to our mar- 
 kets, where they are found in limited numbers. The color 
 is usually of a dark-brown or black, above (the head is more 
 of a bronze green), and lighter beneath, covered with large 
 scales. Uusual weight from one and a half to three pounds. 
 
 Another variety, called small Hack-bass or black-perch, are 
 occasionally found here, but are generally very small ; when 
 found, however, of a large size, are then quite as good as 
 any of their species. They are taken in the fresh-water 
 lakes, and many are brought from Long Island ; usually of 
 quite a dark-brown color, sometimes almost black (especially 
 after spawning), with an indistinct appearance of stripes on 
 the sides. In season in the fall and winter months, but are 
 caught through the spring and summer months. 
 
 ©ory, monkey-fish, pig-fish, or John Pory. — 
 These names are all given to this, no doubt, rare fish here, 
 of which a* peculiar specimen was presented to me Septem- 
 ber 30, 1862. It was a short, deep fish, with a face or head 
 that looked more like a pig's than a monkey's, having but 
 two long, slim, hairy fins, one of which, the dorsal, com- 
 menced just behind the centre of the fish, and ran out, in- 
 clining towards the tail, about five inches long, to a point, 
 then from the base it continued down to the tail, of about 
 half an inch long ; underneath, the ventral began about the 
 centre, and continued the same as the dorsal, both ending 
 at the root of the tail, which was strongly forked. The 
 lateral line raised with the line of the back, and ran dis- 
 tinctly to the tail. The color was bright and silvery, and 
 quite white underneath. It weighed just twelve ounces, 
 
fish. 289 - 
 
 and I found it excellent eating. I preserved a small draw- 
 ing of this one, as it appeared different from any that I 
 have yet seen or noticed in the drawings before. Another 
 variety, called 
 
 Mair-finned dory, or hair-finned arg-yreoise, 
 has some of the appearance of the preceding, but the 
 head is more compressed, body shorter and smaller. It is 
 also furnished with two dorsal hairy fins. The colors are 
 also darker. I have no doubt but it is also excellent eating. 
 There is also another, called 
 
 Rostrated dory, or rostrated argyreoise, so 
 much like the preceding as to be almost taken for their 
 young. They are occasionally caught in nets on the coast 
 of New Jersey, where they are known as the dollar-fish, 
 being about the size of a silver dollar, and much the color 
 of a new specimen. They are seldom used as food, being 
 too small. Another dory, under the name of 
 
 Blunt-nosed shiner, or bristly dory, is a much 
 larger fish than the preceding, and with a head, form, and 
 color more like the first (monkey-fish), except that it has no 
 long hairy fins, but instead it has several short, sharp 
 spines, hidden in a groove in the back. A specimen of this 
 thin, sharp back and belly fish, was sent to me September 
 29th, 1864, with the name of moon-fish, by some New York 
 fishermen. It measured nine and a half inches in length, 
 in width (the widest part) four and a quarter inches, and 
 through the thickest part three-quarters of an inch, and the 
 weight just seven ounces. The flesh was delicate and sweet, 
 but the quantity was small compared with the large amount 
 of bones. 
 
 Hair-finned blepharis, or hair-finned dory.— 
 A fine specimen of this scarce fish was sent to me August 
 4, 1865, which had been caught on the coast of Long Island. 
 The length from nose to end of tail was just six inches, and 
 four inches deep. Color, palish-blue on the back, and 
 silvery-white beneath, having fine lightish brown bands 
 across the body, those near the head quite indistinct. The 
 
 19 
 
290 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 hair-fins, of which there were seven dorsal and six in the 
 anal, measured (four of the longest) twelve inches in length, 
 the others suddenly shorter. The ventral-fins were long- 
 shaped, somewhat like a sword, and quite black. Its small 
 quantity of flesh was delicate eating, and much the flavor 
 of the dory varieties. A drawing was made of this, as it 
 differed from the others I had seen. 
 
 IJong-finned harvest-fish. — This fish is also known 
 South as the rudder-fish, where it is found more plentiful, 
 but occasionally it is found here. It is a short, deep, long- 
 finned fish, with large eyes, small mouth and teeth, and a 
 short nose. The color is of a blue and green tint on the 
 sides, darker on the head. The body has some of the ap- 
 pearance of the short-head fish in shape, but very much 
 smaller, seldom over one and a half pounds. They are a 
 very fair pan-fish, the flesh being white and delicate. 
 
 Speckled red-mouth, speckled grunts. — This 
 scarce fish, one of which was sent to me October 31, 1862, 
 has some of the shape and position of its fins like the 
 porgee ; the color is somewhat different, being of a bluish- 
 gray or slate-colored, covered with brownish-yellow spots 
 on the back, running diagonally across to the top, from the 
 lateral line ; underneath of the same color, but lighter. 
 This was a fine fat fish, the flesh tender and sweet, but in 
 cooking it had quite a strong fish smell. Its weight was 
 just one and a quarter pounds. Another species, somewhat 
 like the preceding in shape, called the 
 
 Yellow-finned red-mouth, is rather a rare visitor 
 in our markets. The mouth is large and red, and the lips 
 fleshy. Color of body is much like the porgee, with indis- 
 tinct stripes across it, and it is said to be quite as good for 
 the table as that fish. Occasionally found here in the 
 months of July, August, and September. 
 
 Carp, or common carp. — Although these fine fish 
 are not natives of this country, yet for their introduction 
 here, some thirty years ago (1832), we are indebted to 
 Henry Eobinson, Esq., of Newburgh, Orange County, who 
 
FISH. 291 
 
 introduced them into the North River, by which they haYe 
 become plentiful, and are taken every season by the fisher- 
 men in their nets. They properly belong to the fresh-water, 
 and no doubt do not visit the sea, or even venture into 
 water that is too highly tinctured with salt, which accounts 
 of their always being taken near where they were first in- 
 troduced. Their color is of a golden olive brown, on back 
 and sides, and yellowish white underneath. Those usually 
 found in the markets are from a half a pound up to three 
 pounds. They have much the appearance of large gold- 
 fish, but are a much better table-fish. 
 
 White perch, gray perch, little white-bass, or 
 silver perch, is one of the varieties of the sea-perch, 
 and much the form and appearance of the common perch, 
 except in color ; the back of which is of a light-blue shade, 
 sides silvery, and white beneath. The scales on the sides 
 appear like spots ; fins pale-yellow, and tail slightly forked. 
 They are usually quite small, seldom weigh above a quarter 
 of a pound, although they have been taken in the North 
 River above a pound weight. Their size is somewhat 
 against them as a table-fish, as they are delicate eating 
 when properly fried. In season in the winter and spring 
 months. In the fisheries on the Potomac River, at a place 
 called Warburton's Landing, says the Commercial Advertiser, 
 April, 1802, " there was the greatest haul of large white 
 perch perhaps ever known in America ; above ten thousand 
 were taken from the seine, after letting numbers get away 
 by lifting the seine." I found these fish plentiful in Phil- 
 adelphia. 
 
 Bosky batistes, or iron skin. — A fine specimen of 
 this rare species, weighing one and a half pounds, was sent 
 to me on the 2d of August, 1866, which I made a drawing 
 of, as the one I had did not represent some of its prominent 
 features. In dressing it for the " pot," I found its skin so 
 tough that it fairly turned the edge of my knife ; I. however, 
 succeeded in getting the head off, and drawn, but before I 
 got through I concluded that it ought to enjoy another 
 
292 THE MABKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 name, and the most suitable one appeared to be " iron-shin" 
 Under the throat ran a round stiff spine, which showed 
 some half inch near the ventral, directly under the pectoral 
 fins, which ran under the skin down to the jaw. The front 
 dorsal spine (of which there were three) was very stout and 
 long, and when laid down, were hid in a crevice in the back. 
 The fishermen called it a rabbit fish, but I think they mis- 
 took it for the lineated puffer. De Kay, however, notices it 
 as the dusky balistes. The flesh was firm, flaky, and well- 
 tasted, but perhaps a little dry. 
 
 Northern foarracuta. — One of these rare or scarce 
 fish was presented to me on the 2d September, 1862, which 
 measured fourteen inches in length, and weighed one and a 
 quarter pounds. The color on the back of a dark green, 
 with a yellowish lateral line, and underneath a silvery white. 
 Two dorsal and two ventral fins were placed almost directly 
 opposite each other, with small pectorals, and a strongly 
 forked tail. The body was almost round, with large eyes 
 and mouth, and the under jaw considerably longer than the 
 upper one, in which one long tooth appeared in front, 
 which closed between two in the upper jaw ; behind these 
 were several large and small teeth, all raking backward, and 
 a very rough tongue. This specimen was taken at the east 
 end of Long Island, and for the table it was very good. 
 
 Spotted codling 1 . — A fine specimen of this small, 
 scarce fish was presented to me, September 27, 1864. The 
 general appearance was somewhat like a large frost-fish, 
 with a small head and large eyes, scales thin and easily re- 
 moved, and the lateral line black, but disconnected, or only 
 in stripes a quarter of an inch long. 
 
 The first dorsal has a black spot near the top edge, the 
 tip of which is white, and underneath it has two long bar- 
 bels, or hair-fins, which seem split near the end just under 
 the gill-opening, and forms four ends, the main being the 
 longest. It is an excellent pan- fish, much like the frost-fish. 
 Its weight was just half a pound, and length eleven inches. 
 I have had several specimens since, some of them much 
 larger. 
 
fish. 293 
 
 Long-toothed flounder, or spotted flounder.— 
 
 This variety of the flat-fish appears rather scarce, or at least 
 they are not often noticed by the fishermen ; and if so, they 
 are only a spotted variety of the fluke, or oblong flounder, 
 although their bodies are longer in proportion. The speci- 
 men sent to me (October, 1864) measured in length sixteen 
 inches ; width, including fins, six inches, and weighed one 
 and three-quarter pounds. It had four large, round, distinct 
 spots, somewhat like eyes, that were bordered with white, 
 two near and on each side of the base of the tail, and two 
 about the centre of the fish, near the base of the caudal and 
 ventral fins. The flesh was well-flavored, but not so fine as 
 the oblong flounder, nor so plump or fleshy ; but perhaps 
 this fish was not in the best condition. 
 
 Southern caranx. — A beautiful small fish of this 
 species, weight seven ounces, was sent to me September 27, 
 1862 (since that period I have had several specimens). The 
 color of the back blue, on the sides yellowish, and a small 
 dark spot on each side of the opercle, or gill-opening, in 
 range of the eye. I found the flesh a little dry, but sweet 
 and good. Another variety much like it, called 
 
 Yellow earanx, or yellow mackerel, was also 
 sent to me August 29, 1864, which weighed four ounces. It 
 had a more yellow or golden appearance than the preceding, 
 and a longer bodied fish. The flesh was not quite so deli- 
 cate, being a little dry and insipid eating. 
 
 Rock hass, rock perch, stone perch, or gold- 
 en-eyed perch. — This greenish fresh-water bass is almost 
 equal for the table to the black-bass, its near companion, as 
 I have taken them both at the same time and place. They 
 are, however, a smaller, deeper fish, weighing usually from 
 one-half to one pound weight. The color is of a very dark 
 green above, sides of a golden-copper, with several rows of 
 dark spots, and the fins of a bluish-green. The nose is also 
 inclined to turn up. In season with the black-bass, but are 
 not usually so plentiful, I suppose on account of its size. 
 
 Calico foass, speckled bass, or partridge-tailed 
 
294 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 bass. — This fish is also known among our fishermen as the 
 " strawberry bass." Their form is somewhat like the sun- 
 fish, but not so deep, with a hollow, compressed head, and 
 a mouth which inclines to open upwards, the lower jaw being 
 much the longest. Color of quite a dark green on the back, 
 lighter on the sides, and covered with dark, irregular spots, 
 more distinct near the tail. The fins are also placed like 
 those of the sun-fish, excepting that there are eight stiff 
 sharp spines in the dorsal, four in the anal, and one in the 
 ventral fins. 
 
 I have eaten of them several times (the largest specimen 
 seen weighed one pound ten ounces, measuring in length 
 fifteen inches, depth six inches), and found their flesh quite 
 sweet, but a little dry. Found here in the winter months. 
 
 Sole (or soal), or ]\ew York sole, — This is another 
 species of the flat-fish, but usually quite small, and unlike, 
 especially about the mouth, any of the other species. Sev- 
 eral were sent alive to the Fair of the American Institute in 
 1860, measuring from five to six inches in length (which de- 
 partment was under my charge as a manager). On the 
 dark side of these fish appeared several brown spots and 
 bars, which ran across the fish, and the inner side reddish- 
 white, with a rough skin. I found their flesh delicate eat- 
 ing, much better than I expected from their looks, but a 
 very small quantity of it, and somewhat troublesome to 
 pick from its many bones. 
 
 The N. Y 4 Gazette and Post-Boy, September 18, 1760, in 
 the London news notices a " Mr. William Davis, of Caer- 
 marthen, South Wales, who was fishing in a boat a little 
 distance from the above place, caught a small soal, and just 
 biting the head, as the custom there is, in order to kill it, 
 the fish slipped so far down his throat as to choke him im- 
 mediately." Another instance of the same kind is found 
 in the Columbia Sentinel, November 19, 1806 : " In Swansea 
 (Eng.), Mr. David George was in the act of disengaging a 
 sole fish from a net, when the fish made a spring down his 
 throat, and choked him to death." 
 
fish. 295 
 
 Crar, sea-pike, bill-fish, banded gar-fish. — This 
 is a long-billed and a lengthy fish, the under jaw being 
 longer than the upper one, and the mouth crowded full of 
 sharp teeth. The color on the back is of a dark-green, 
 lighter on the side, and silver-white under, or below the two 
 raised bands on each side ; there is also a band running 
 along the back. I have eaten them several times, and 
 found the flesh sweet, something the taste of an eel, but not 
 so juicy. The backbone is of quite a light-green color. In 
 season from July to October, and usually weighs from one 
 to six pounds. P. Vincellette had three in Jefferson Mar- 
 ket, in 1862, which weighed sixteen and a quarter pounds — 
 largest over six pounds. 
 
 Northern bill-fish, or Northern gar, is another 
 of the same species, with the jaws not quite so long as the 
 preceding. The color is also much like that fish, being of a 
 darker green. It has also a silvery band along the body, 
 and silvery- white under. They are taken in large numbers 
 off Cape Cod, and found to be very nutritious and sweet 
 fish. In season in the fall months. 
 
 Needle-fish. — This name is given by some New York 
 fishermen to a very rare fish which was sent to me June 
 14, 1865, in a fresh condition. The name, no doubt, was 
 given to it in consequence of its long, peculiar bill, alto- 
 gether unlike any fish I ever saw or read of. The whole 
 length of the fish was just fifteen inches, while the bill, from 
 the opening of the mouth to the point, was two and a half 
 inches long, and, unlike the sword-fish, the mouth opened 
 on the top, or upper side of this bill, which, when pressed 
 downwards, opened the mouth, and upwards, the mouth 
 closed. The bill appears a continuation of the lower jaw, 
 and is of a horny substance, covered with a soft, dark skin. 
 The mouth was quite small, the upper jaw being only about 
 an inch in length, having many small, minute teeth on both 
 lower and upper jaws, as far as the mouth closed on the 
 bill. The body of the fish was squarely formed, having quite 
 a flat back and belly, the deepest part measuring one and 
 
296 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 a half inches, round the body four and a quarter inches, and 
 weighed just six ounces. Color on the back of a dark-blue, 
 which abruptly met a broad silver streak and merged into 
 a white silvery color underneath ; and I may say it was a 
 beautiful-colored fish. The fins lay in nearly the same po- 
 sition as the pickerel's. The tail, however, was strongly 
 forked, the upper fork being shorter and smaller than the 
 lower one. It was covered with large scales, which easily 
 came off. Its flesh tasted much like the gar. I preserved 
 a drawing of this rare fish (at least, in New York). 
 
 Brilliant chuhsucker, or chub of New York. 
 — This is a perch-shaped fresh-water fish, having a dark 
 slate- colored head and sucker mouth; the back of a dark 
 dusky green ; sides silvery and yellow, interspersed with 
 darkish-clouded marks, being covered with large scales and 
 a considerable quantity of mucus. They usually weigh 
 from a half to a pound and a half. A specimen sent to me 
 weighed the latter weight ; measured, in length, thirteen 
 inches ; depth, four inches ; and I found it a good, sweet, 
 juicy fish. In season in the fall and winter months — the 
 latter the best. Another kind I received at the same time, 
 called 
 
 Large-scaled sucker, or blue sucker, which 
 weighed eleven ounces, measuring in length ten inches, and 
 in depth three inches. Color of a dark pale blue on the 
 back, and lighter beneath. It was not so good a table-fish 
 as the above ; season the same. 
 
 Horned sucker, horned dace, or barbel — This 
 species is also from the fresh water ; in form and color some- 
 what like the brilliant chubsucker. The distinctness, how- 
 ever, is in the little points or horns between the eyes and 
 nose. For the table it is about the same quality, and is in 
 season at the same time. There is another species, called 
 
 Ked dace, red-fin, or rough-head, usually found 
 a smaller fish, also from the fresh water, which has much of 
 the head and jaws covered with small pointed tubercles. 
 The fins also are marked with a crimson red color, and 
 
fish. 297 
 
 altogether it is a beautiful little fish, but usually too small 
 for the table. Another variety, called the 
 
 Shining dace, white dace, or shiner, principally 
 found in the great lakes, is a much larger and better fish for 
 the table. The color on the back is of light olive-brown, 
 head darker, and the sides silvery. Another, still larger, 
 called the 
 
 Black-headed dace, lake dace, or lake chub, 
 with a brownish-black head, dark olive-green back, lighter 
 beneath, and of a glossy white underneath, and of about the 
 same quality for the table. 
 
 Variegated bream, dace, or yellow-bellied 
 perch. — This perch-shaped fish is about the size of the 
 white perch, but, as its name denotes, the variegated colors 
 on the body show the green, blue, and yellow, with a silvery 
 mixture throughout. It is occasionally found in the winter 
 months ; but, in consequence of its small size, it is not much 
 esteemed, although a sweet fish. 
 
 Spotted thread herring, thread fish. — This is 
 rather a scarce fish, although occasionally seen here. The 
 peculiarity of this herring is found in the latter end of the 
 dorsal or back fin, and is a long, thread-like ray, nearly three 
 inches in length. It has also a round black spot back of 
 the head, in range of the eye, and is shaped much like a 
 shad. It seldom weighs above one pound, and is in season 
 in September and October. Another scarce variety, called 
 
 Slender herring, is long, round, and a smaller fish. 
 Color of a silvery-blue on the back, lighter beneath, and the 
 dorsal and caudal fins tinged with yellow. It is a summer 
 fish when found here. Another more plentiful variety, called 
 
 American alewive, or spring herring, is taken 
 with the shad, and is much the form but smaller than that 
 fish. The color, however, is darker on the back, with several 
 indistinct spotted stripes running lengthwise on the sides, 
 and silvery underneath. They are a better table-fish than 
 the common herring. 
 
 Spotted shadlne, New York shadlne ? is an- 
 
298 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 other shad-looking fish, but smaller, and a scarce variety. 
 It has a distinct dark spot behind the gill-opening, on a range 
 with the eye — in fact, nearly all the shad and herring species 
 have this spot, sometimes, however, quite indistinct. These 
 fish, when found, are seen here in the fall months. This is 
 the poorest fish of the species for the table. 
 
 Saury, round herring. — A fine specimen of this 
 sea-fish was presented to me, October 10, 1862, which 
 weighed one and a quarter pounds. It had a long, round 
 body, greenish shade on the back, and silvery sides, with 
 the tail strongly forked. It is correctly described, by De 
 Kay, but is a much longer fish, according to its size, than 
 appears in that work. As an edible fish, I found the flesh 
 sweet, but quite full of small wiry bones. 
 
 Sisco, sisouette, or lake herring. — These fresh- 
 water fish are usually found in our markets in the autumn 
 and winter months, and generally very fat. They have some 
 of the appearance of the common herring, but with a sharp- 
 pointed head, and a round form. Several specimens were 
 sent to me, the heaviest of which weighed one and a quarter 
 pounds. I found their flesh very sweet, but a little dry, and 
 not so full of bones as I expected. I am inclined to believe 
 they are the young of the common shad-salmon or herring- 
 salmon I was informed by $ie historian of Jefferson 
 County (R B. Hough, Esq.) that the name " sisco," given 
 to this fish, originated from the name of Dr. James D. 
 Seisco, who had an excellent fishery on Chaumont Bay, 
 about the year 1805, where he took these and other fish by 
 thousands every year. 
 
 River moon-eye, or river herring. — One of this 
 species of fresh-water fish was presented to me in the month 
 of November, 1859. It had some of the appearance of the 
 common herring, but shorter, and with very large eyes quite 
 near the mouth ; it also had large scales and silvery sides. 
 The tongue was covered with small teeth. "Weight, three 
 quarters of a pound, and about the same as the above for 
 the table. Another of the same species, called 
 
fish. 299 
 
 Lake moon-eye, which has much of the same appear- 
 ance as the preceding, but not so deep or so flat-sided a 
 fish. They, however, are seldom seen here. 
 
 Pilot-fish. — Several fish of this name were sent to me 
 in the summer of 1862, which so much resembled the banded 
 seriole that I was inclined to think them the same fish. The 
 only difference I discovered was, that they were without the 
 first dorsal fin ; the pectorals and ventral were also smaller, 
 and the tips of the tail and all the other fins were fringed 
 with white. I found them indifferent pan-fish. The 
 banded seriole are also known by some of the fishermen as 
 " rudder-fish." Another variety of this species I named 
 
 Brown pilot-fish, as I could not find any thing like 
 it. Its general appearance and form was much like the 
 preceding, but a larger fish. In length it measured twelve 
 inches ; depth, three and a half inches ; weight, fourteen 
 ounces. It was sent to me in the month of August, from 
 which I preserved a sketch. The first dorsal fin is composed 
 of seven short and stiff spines ; the second, of thirty-three 
 soft spinous rays, running to near the tail. The ventral has 
 one short stiff spine, and some twenty soft rays, commen- 
 cing one half inch from the vent, and running back' the same 
 as the dorsal, and tinged with white. Color of a reddish 
 brown on the back ; quite dark, and a lightish brown streak 
 on each side. The pectoral fins were short, roundish, and 
 quite delicate. The ventral fins counted nine stiff rays : 
 eyes blue, and the flesh about the same quality as the pre- 
 ceding. 
 
 Remora, or shark-sucker. — One of these curious 
 fish was presented to me, October 3, 1862, by Mr. K. D. 
 Brower, fisherman, of Jefferson Market, which measured 
 just twenty inches in length, and weighed* one and three 
 quarter pounds. This specimen is called by De Kay " white- 
 tailed remora," and correctly described on p. 307 of the 
 " New York Fauna," excepting that the*" broad black band," 
 running lengthwise, was not found on this fish, but merely 
 a light narrow line. For the table I found it quite indiffer- 
 
300 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 ent eating, although without the skin it was more palat- 
 able. Fishermen generally call it the " shark- sucker," as it 
 is often found fastened to the shark ; and so closely is the 
 back of the head (or suction part) imbedded or fastened to 
 the under part of the shark's body, near the head, that it 
 has no trouble to feed upon whatever escapes the shark's 
 terrible jaws. 
 
 Flying-fish, or New York flying-fish. — These 
 winged fish are occasionally found in our markets, having 
 been brought here by the fishing-smacks, or other fisher- 
 men, more as curiosities ; but I am told by sailors that they 
 are much enjoyed by them, when found on the decks of 
 their vessels when trying to escape from their water enemies. 
 Their side or pectoral fins are their wings, which cause their 
 flight ; but it is only for a short distance, when they fall 
 either in the sea or a passing vessel. Their color is of a 
 darkish green, and white beneath, and from ten to twelve 
 inches in length. 
 
 There are also many varieties of small fish found in the 
 markets which are usually too small to be profitable as 
 human food, such as gold-fish, killi-fish, small dace, min- 
 nows, sticklebacks, etc., which are kept purposely for fish- 
 bait ; but, when of any size, most all are found to be delicate 
 eating. I have eaten of killi-fish, among which were several 
 called striped killi-fish, weighing above six ounces each, and 
 I found the flesh very sweet, but a little dry. 
 
 A friend, on Long Island, has a stock of gold-fish which 
 multiply so fast that he occasionally takes them, from a half 
 to one pound weight, for the use of his table. Several 
 curious specimens were also taken, some of which had three 
 tails ; others, again, were quite round or flat, mottled with 
 black, silver, and gold, and had different heads and forms 
 of fins, which would lead many to think that they were of 
 different varieties ; but he informs me that all were bred 
 from the common gold-fish. They are generally found to be 
 more ornamental than useful, and are sought after for their 
 beautiful colors and domestic habits or tameness. 
 
5HELL-FISH. 301 
 
 SHELL-FISH, &e. 
 
 Under the above head I have placed the crustaceous and 
 the molluscous species of shell-fish, commencing with those 
 generally placed under the first named. 
 
 Lobsters. — These shell-fish are too well known to need 
 description, as they are usually found in great plenty in our 
 markets in all months of the year, except December, Janu- 
 ary, and February. They are, however, better in some of 
 the months than others ; that is, the female or hen lobster 
 is generally preferred through the summer months — es- 
 pecially June and July — and the male, or " ram" lobster in 
 the winter months, when found. The latter is distinguished 
 from the hen not only for its want of eggs under the flap, or 
 tail, but by the longer and narrower back, running quite to 
 the tail and including the fan or fins. When the eggs, or 
 berries, of the female are large and quite brown, the lobster 
 will be found exhausted, watery, and quite poor. The larg- 
 est are not always the best, but those ranging from four to 
 six pounds in weight, when fat, are the choice and most 
 delicate. 
 
 A very fine variety called blue-backs, with quite thin shells, 
 brought from the coast about Cape Cod, in the months of 
 May and June, are sought after by the lobster epicure. 
 The average weight is usually from two to four pounds, al- 
 though I have heard of their weighing above twenty. I am 
 told that one was sold in Fulton Market, several years ago, 
 of twenty-eight pounds ! ! The female seldom weighs above 
 eight pounds. When fresh they are always lively, and the 
 tail will spring strongly back under them when lifted from 
 the stands. Many are found cooked in some of the mar- 
 kets, more particularly the Fulton, of New York, and Fan- 
 euil Hall, of Boston, who send them all over the country. 
 The whole lobster is good to eat, except the shell and craw, 
 or stomach, which lies between the eyes. 
 
302 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 Professor Kalm, in his travels here in 1748, speaks of 
 lobsters as being " plentifully caught hereabouts," and fur- 
 ther says : " I was told of a very remarkable circumstance 
 about these lobsters, and I have afterwards frequently heard 
 it mentioned. The coast of New York had already Euro- 
 pean inhabitants, for a considerable time, yet no lobsters 
 being in this part of the sea, they were therefore continually 
 brought in great well-boats from New England, where they 
 are plentiful ; but it happened that one of these well-boats 
 broke in pieces near Hell-gate, about ten English miles from 
 New York, and all the lobsters in it got off. ,: Since that 
 time they have so multiplied in this part of the sea that they 
 are now caught in the greatest abundance." The Gazette, 
 etc., September 11th, 1766, says : "A live lobster, which 
 weighed thirteen pounds and a quarter, was sold (in the 
 previous month of July) at Billingsgate Market Garden 
 (London) for twenty-four shillings (at New York, in 1765, 
 one of eighteen pounds sold for two shillings and sixpence)." 
 Some considerable difference in the weight and price. 
 
 Some time before the Bevolution, "A Wm. Bichards, of 
 Philadelphia, famous there for pickling sturgeon, came to 
 New York and planted lobsters near Hell-gate, East Biver ; 
 they grew and became plenty, and he had a vote of thanks 
 from the 'Assembly.' ' At the commencement of the Eev- 
 olution, the harbor of New York, it is said, abounded in fish 
 and lobsters of the largest size ;. but immediately after the 
 cannonading by the vessels of war in the Battle of Long 
 Island, and the taking possession of New York by the 
 British army, they all at once disappeared, and but few 
 were taken until within the last fifty or sixty years ; since 
 when they appear to have been gradually " creeping down," 
 so that they have been often taken opposite the city. 
 
 An amusing, but no doubt a painful incident, called " The 
 lobster's revenge," found among the trials before the Paris 
 Tribunal of Correctional Police, in 1852, was that against a 
 dealer in fish, who was summoned by a Madame Grebuchet, 
 who claimed thirty francs damages for the injury caused to 
 
SHELL-FISH. 303 
 
 her nose by one of the defendant's lobsters. The plaintiff, 
 wishing to regale her husband with a delicacy for his din- 
 ner, went to the market and was bargaining for a lobster, 
 which she took up in her . hand, but threw it down again, 
 saying it was not fresh. The fishwife protested that it was 
 alive, but Madame Grebuchet asserted the contrary, and 
 that it even stunk. To satisfy herself that such was the 
 case, she a second time applied her nose to it, when the lob- 
 ster, as if in defence of its owner's veracity, seized hold of 
 Madame Grebuchet's nose with its claw, and held it fast. 
 She screamed for assistance, but, instead of immediately 
 rendering it, the dealer and her companions around burst 
 out into a laugh, and it was some little time before the nose 
 of the lady could be released. The fishwoman, in her de- 
 fence, maintained that she was not to blame, and that the 
 mischief was solely caused by the imprudence of Madame 
 Grebuchet in applying her prominent feature so closely to 
 the lobster's claw, when she had been told that it was alive ; 
 and the Tribunal, taking the same view of the case, dis- 
 missed the complaint, and the plaintiff ordered to pay costs." 
 
 Crabs. — The crab is not so generally used as the lob- 
 ster, but it certainly is of a better flavor, if more trouble- 
 some to prepare. The middling size, when heavy, lively, 
 and with large claws, are considered the best and sweetest. 
 If light, they are poor and watery : when stale, the eyes 
 look dead and the claws hang down. The female is usually 
 thought inferior to the male, and she may be known by the 
 claws being smaller, and the flap, or apron, larger, which 
 appears on the white or under side. 
 
 In taking them up with the hand, catch them by the fla 
 fin or leg, behind, next to the body ; they then cannot reach 
 you with their large claws. They are in season from June 
 to January, and considered the most wholesome in the win- 
 ter or cold months. In the year 1817 an ordinance was 
 drafted prohibiting the sale of crabs in the public markets, 
 "from the 15th of December to the 1st of March in each 
 year," but afterwards rescinded. 
 
304: THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 The process of casting off its old shell occurs annually 
 (between June and October), and when taken just before 
 that time they are called shedders, or 
 
 8hedder crabs, when they are readily known by those 
 who deal in them. The flap or apron has a red and blue 
 appearance, and by breaking a point of the old shell the new 
 or soft one is discovered under it. In this condition they 
 are principally used for bait in " fishing." When they are 
 taken with the old shell off, and the new, yet soft, shell on, 
 they are in a helpless state, and are generally found near 
 the shore ; they are then called 
 
 Soft crabs or soft-shelled crabs. — These are con- 
 sidered a great luxury, when fried, and also by the fisher- 
 men for bait, when high prices are paid for them. They are 
 found in this state in the months of June, July, August, 
 September, and part of October. The female crab, when 
 full of eggs or spawn — that is, under the apron will be seen 
 large numbers of these little brownish-green eggs, which, as 
 they grow in size, presses this apron out until it stands at a 
 right angle ; in this state they are known as the cow-crab, 
 and are then usually found in the channels or deep water, 
 where they go to deposit their eggs or young, and are then un- 
 fit to be eaten ; but as the cold weather advances they soon 
 after become fat again. The severe cold weather, however, 
 drives them into the mud, where they are raked up and 
 brought to our markets through the winter in a fat condition. 
 
 From the Sun, July 7th, 1855 : " Crab Extraordinary. — 
 We were yesterday shown a crab of the most extraordinary 
 dimensions, taken by Mr. John Carlyle, of Brooklyn, in Go- 
 wanus Bay. It is of unusual size and weight, and the fish- 
 ermen in the neighborhood had never seen any thing equal 
 to it. It measures three feet in length from tip to tip of the 
 claws, and weighed when taken full eight and a half pounds." 
 
 Morse-foot or king crab. — Great numbers of this 
 species of crab are taken in the spring of the year ; but they 
 are seldom sold in our markets, although, it is said, when 
 the flesh is carefully separated from the other parts and 
 
SHELL-FISH. 305 
 
 boiled it becomes a delicious, savory food. Their form is 
 that of a horse-foot, with a long, stiff, horny, triangular, 
 sharp-pointed tail, which appears their weapon of defence. 
 They come to the shore to deposit their eggs in the sand on 
 the coast. So numerous are they on, this occasion that the 
 beach is covered with them for miles. Many thousands are 
 shovelled Up with their eggs in wagon-loads, of which the 
 eggs are used to feed poultry, and the crabs to feed hogs, 
 or in making a rich manure. Several other species are 
 sometimes found in our markets, but more for curiosity than 
 food, among which are the spotted crab or sand crab, 
 the lady crab, the oyster crab. This latter crab is 
 considered a delicacy when found in the oyster, while the 
 two former are inferior or seldom or never eaten. There is 
 also another little shell-fish, about the size of the first joint 
 of the finger, called tiddler or soldier crab, that has 
 only one large claw, which it carries before when it runs, 
 and at the same time it is ready for defence or attack, the 
 claw being about the same proportion as the big fiddle is to 
 the violoncello player in an orchestra. They are found in 
 the soft banks along the salt-water ditches, where their nu- 
 merous holes denote their presence. Their flesh is eatable 
 and quite sweet — when you can find it. 
 
 Shrimp. — This lively little animal, somewhat the form 
 of a lobster, is not much used for the table, but large quan- 
 tities are taken and sold for " fish-bait." When of good 
 size, however, they are found to be sweet and well-flavored. 
 Many are used in making sauces, stewing, etc. 
 
 Prawns, American prawns, or big shrimp. — 
 These are usually found larger and quite differently formed 
 from the preceding, having a larger head and eyes, with a 
 saw-like beak or crest, which bends upwards : also a sharp 
 back (especially near the tail), flat-sided, and the claws, es- 
 pecially the large biting ones, quite small ; in fact, it is un- 
 like either the lobster or shrimp. The two hair-fins are also 
 three times the length of the shrimp. Many years ago they 
 were taken on the shores of Long Island, but now they are 
 
 20 
 
306 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 brought from the South, especially from Charleston, already 
 cooked, usually sold by measure. They are excellent eating. 
 In season from April to November. 
 
 Oyster. — Of this famous shell-fish, but two principal va- 
 rieties appear here : these are the Northern and Southern, 
 although the oystermen have many names to distinguish the 
 particular place where from, such as East Bivers, York 
 bays, Saddle-rocks, Mill-ponds, Shrewsburys, City Islanders, 
 Cow Bays, Blue-points, Chingaroras, Virginias, Dela- 
 wares, &c. 
 
 The Northern oyster has a broad, thin, tough shell, with 
 a pleasant smell, savoring of the odor of marine plants, while 
 the Southern oyster has a thick, spongy, soft shell, and of 
 less flavor. There is no doubt the oysters taken on our 
 coast, in our bays, inlets, and especially the East Biver, at- 
 tain their most luscious flavor. They are in season almost 
 the year through, except when spawning ; then they are 
 milky, watery, poor, and considered unfit and unwholesome 
 food. The months of their spawning appears in May, June, 
 and July. It is said that planted oysters — that is, those 
 that have been transplanted from their native beds and 
 placed and fattened on others prepared for them — are never 
 milky, and, no doubt, by their being thus removed or dis- 
 turbed before they have commenced to spawn, has caused 
 them to stop this process, while in their natural beds they 
 were always subject to this objection. 
 
 An unusual excitement, or, rather, an " oyster panic," oc- 
 curred in New York City, in October, 1855, which prevailed 
 against the use of oysters as an article of food for several 
 weeks. Several highly-esteemed citizens died very sudden- 
 ly by cholera, which it was thought was occasioned by eat- 
 ing diseased oysters. Various causes were assigned for 
 their poisonous quality : some attributed it to drouth ; 
 others, that the oysters had been taken up during their 
 spawning time, and thus become diseased. The same com- 
 plaint and fatal instances existed at Baltimore, Alexandria, 
 Georgetown, and other places. 
 
SHELL-FISH. 307 
 
 Dr. James E. Chilton, a noted chemist, after making a 
 chemical examination of them, says : " It is not an unusual 
 circumstance that oysters and other shell-fish, when eaten 
 after having been kept long during the warm season, will 
 produce serious illness resembling cholera ; but no such ill 
 effects would be likely to arise when they are received fresh 
 from our waters." 
 
 Several years ago oysters were seldom seen for sale in 
 their general spawning season ; it was not only against the 
 laws (as it is now), but the people would not buy or have 
 them in their possession. An ordinance was passed in 1839 
 which reads as follows : " No person shall bring into the 
 City of New York, or have in his or her possession, in the 
 said city, any oysters, between the first day of May and the 
 first day of September, in any year, under the penalty of 
 five dollars for any quantity not exceeding one hundred, 
 and the further penalty of two dollars for every additional 
 hundred." 
 
 No shell-fish should ever be used as food when their shells 
 remain open, as they are then dead, unfit, and one such will 
 spoil the whole dish. 
 
 Wholesale dealers usually have four qualities or sizes on 
 sale. The best are known as extras, then follow the box, 
 cullings, and bushels. Other dealers sell at retail, and also 
 open them, which they sell by the hundred, gallon, or quart 
 to private families ; and others again make a large business 
 in pickling them, for home and foreign consumption, which 
 are sent throughout the " States," and for shipping. 
 
 I have always found the best and finest flavored oysters 
 were those of a middling or even a smaller size to eat out 
 of the shell, either raw or roasted. The clusters are seldom 
 found as good as single oysters, and especially those of un- 
 natural length, are usually found poor and watery. I have 
 known twelve large long slim oysters standing endwise and 
 upright, like the quills upon a porcupine's back, all growing 
 upon one stem. 
 
 In the month of September, 1859, a discovery of a great 
 
308 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 oyster-bed was made at Eaton's Neck, on the Long Island 
 shore, by five fishermen from Darien, Conn. It is stated 
 that " they found themselves drifting too far out ; and drop- 
 ping overboard an oyster-dredge to bring their boat to an- 
 chor," when ready to draw it in again on board, they 
 found it very heavy, and after raising it to the surface, they 
 had it filled with fine large oysters, when they soon loaded 
 their boat, and entered into a mutual compact of secrecy : 
 but it was broken ; the information was sold, and the valu- 
 able discovery was soon made public. Thousands of bush- 
 els were taken and replanted, and those which were planted 
 in deep water, produced some extra fine large oysters, which 
 found a ready sale in our markets. 
 
 Perhaps the largest oyster ever taken on the coast of the 
 United States, or which we have any record of, is noticed 
 in the Mobile Advertiser in the month of April, 1840. This 
 says : " The large oyster taken by Xavier Francois, while 
 oystering on Monday last, was brought up from the wharf 
 on a dray last evening. An oyster measuring three feet one 
 inch in length, and twenty-three and a half inches across the 
 widest part of it, is a curiosity. Mr. Ayres, the purchaser, 
 will exhibit it at the Alhambra this day at eleven o'clock, 
 when it will be opened and served up in his usual good style." 
 
 An oyster of pretty good size, out of a lot of East Rivers, 
 was opened by Braisted, of Jefferson Market, January 27, 
 1865, which contained a small fish known as the spotted 
 gunnel, or butter-fish, measuring six inches in length, and a 
 half an inch in depth, flat or compressed sides, and a dorsal 
 fin extending from back of the head to the tail, filled with 
 sharp spinous rays ; the anal fin from about the centre or 
 vent, also to the tail, with two small pectoral fins, and a 
 roundish tail. It was quite dead. 
 
 Hard clams, hard - shelled clams, round 
 clams, and (the Indian name) quahaiig. — This bivalve 
 is the most in use in and about New York, and is much 
 prized by many of our citizens as an article of food, espe- 
 cially from some localities, when it is so savory as to be al- 
 
SHELL-FISH. 
 
 most equally valued with the oyster. They are a 
 ered very nutritious and healthy, and used by pt 
 every condition in life. The best qualities are those 
 from Fire Island, Cow Bay, Little Neck Bay, Flushing K 
 Oyster Bay, City Island, Egg Harbor, Rockaway, Shrews- 
 bury, Shinecock, New Inlet, etc. A very large amount of 
 these clams are sent or distributed all over the States, and 
 also in our steamers, in a fresh and pickled state. I have 
 known two or three incidents of this shell-fish catching rats, 
 which occurred in the following manner. When lying on 
 the stands quiet some time, they open their shells, no doubt 
 in search of water or food, and while in this state, one 
 night, a large rat took a fancy to extract all that was most 
 valuable to his clamship's existence, by inserting one of his 
 fore-paws into the partially open door of the bivalve's 
 household. This sudden and unwelcome introduction was 
 so unexpected and sensitive to the shell-mailed inhabitant, 
 as to cause the quick closing of his doors, by which the in- 
 truder was tightly fastened and secured. A considerable 
 squealing and dragging around was the result, but there 
 was no let up, until the rat as well as the clam paid the 
 death penalty. Another curiosity is found noticed of the 
 
 Giant dam, which is the largest of all the testaceous 
 animals. " Only one shell in Mr. Turell's cabinet weighs four 
 hundred pounds. Upon a moderate calculation, the animal 
 which it contained would afford a meal for a hundred men. 
 It is a native of the shores of the Indian Ocean, where, it is 
 said, at low-water the tiger comes down to seek for food : 
 he puts his paw into the shell to get at the animal, when 
 the shell closes and holds him so fast that he either loses 
 his paw or is drowned by the rising tide." — Boston Weekly 
 Mag., 1803. 
 
 Soft clams, soft-shelled clams, long clams, and 
 piss-clams. — This fine clam enjoys several names, as ap- 
 pears above, but the most common one is soft clam, from the 
 fact that it has a thin, brittle, or soft shell. It differs in 
 shape from the hard-shell, being some longer, and the taste 
 
THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 a and luscious ; they are also considered very nu- 
 
 They are found in great abundance along the 
 
 .„nd the numerous creeks, at low-water, in groups or 
 
 lilies, about nine to twelve inches under the sand. 
 Yhereveryou find the shore full of round holes, about the 
 size of a small finger, there you may be sure to find soft 
 clams. It is through these small holes they feed at high- 
 water. They are usually found opened in our markets ; and 
 the best are here in the winter months, or from September 
 to May, after which they are not so good. When the tides 
 are very low, or the water has been driven off the shore by 
 high winds, then large, fine clams are dug up, and found on 
 sale as soon as they can be brought to the markets. 
 
 Beach clam, dipper clam. — This is one of the 
 largest clams known ; of an olive-brown color, shaped much 
 like the hard clam, but the flesh is tough and not so sweet 
 as the latter clams, although some persons enjoy them ; 
 they are, however, principally used for fishing-bait. Many 
 are taken on the shores of Long Island, but are only occa- 
 sionally found on sale in our markets. 
 
 Razor-shell clam. — This is a singular-looking shell- 
 fish — long, curved somewhat the shape of a razor-blade, and 
 by some the flesh is esteemed as a good article of food. It 
 is not usually much larger than a jack-knife. Seldom found 
 in our markets. 
 
 Clams ashore. The Hempstead, L. I., Enquirer (February, 
 1839) says : " During the recent gale large quantities of 
 clams of all descriptions were thrown upon the beach for 
 an extent of nearly eight miles, and so great is the quantity 
 now lying high and dry, that it is supposed it would require 
 all the horses and wagons in the town of Hempstead, for 
 months, to carry them away." 
 
 Scollops, or scallops. — These are found in plenty in 
 our markets, when in season ; are best from September to 
 March. Only the muscular part, or, as some call it, the 
 heart, is used as food. They are good boiled and pickled, 
 but much better fried ; many, however, do not like their 
 
SHELL-FISH. 311 
 
 peculiar sweetness, which is somewhat like the flavor of a 
 rich soft clam's, but much more cloying and satisfying. 
 
 MUiscles. — These shell-fish are generally found best — 
 in fact, only fit to eat — in the fall and winter months, and 
 seldom in great quantities, as they are not generally es- 
 teemed very high as food. They are best boiled and pickled, 
 but, on account of their solid texture, etc., they do not 
 readily digest, and therefore do not agree with many stom- 
 achs. Summer Sunday mornings they are plentifully found 
 at the Catherine Market. 
 
 Fresh -water muscle. — This muscle, or clam, is taken 
 from fresh-water streams, but seldom used as food, being 
 very tough, and considered unwholesome. Pearls of value, 
 however, are sometimes found in them. I saw some in 1856 
 that were sold to jewellers at from one to five dollars apiece. 
 Since that time many have been found worth as many hun- 
 dreds apiece. 
 
 Winkles, or periwinkles. — There are several species 
 of this shell-fish sometimes found in our markets, usually at 
 the Catherine Market, on a Sunday morning. They are 
 caught and brought from the Long Island shore, and sold 
 here as an article of food ; but they are not generally rel- 
 ished, being somewhat strong-flavored. They are mostly 
 used by the poor who live near the coast. Found in the 
 summer and fall months. In England they are called " wilks." 
 
 Cockles. — These shell-fish are often picked up with the 
 round clam, in the mouths of rivers and bays near the ocean. 
 Their form is shaped like the clam, but wrinkled and rough. 
 They are not much thought of as food, are quite scarce, and 
 seldom seen in our markets. 
 
 Snails. — From the French journals, we learn that snails 
 have become a fashionable article of diet in France. " That 
 there are fifty restaurants, and more than twelve hundred 
 private tables, in Paris, where snails are accepted as a deli- 
 cacy by from eight to ten thousand consumers. The market 
 price of the great vineyard snails is from 2f. 50c. to 3f. 50c. 
 (forty-seven to sixty-six cents) per hundred, while those of 
 
312 THE MAKKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 the hedges, woods and forest bring only from 2f. to 2f. 25c 
 (thirty-eight to forty-three cents.)" Snails are, and have 
 been for several years, imported from Europe, but are prin- 
 cipally used by foreigners. They are generally stewed after 
 having been scalded out of their shell. 
 
 Crreen turtle • — This fine turtle is well known to the 
 epicure for its delicious steaks and the savory soup which it 
 affords. The flesh appears to be of three colors, and it is 
 said to combine the taste of fish, flesh, and fowl, although 
 one of the members of the " Turtle Club" (Denman), who 
 appears well informed on the subject, says : " The dark red 
 flesh is called beef, a lighter part veal, and the other part 
 lamb." The fat is of a green color. The veal part is gen- 
 erally used for steaks, which are taken from the fore-quarter. 
 Those under fifty pounds weight are called " chicken turtle," 
 and from fifty to eighty pounds weight are considered the best. 
 
 In preparing them, after having hung them up by the hind- 
 fins, and taken off the head, some five or six hours after, 
 they should be taken down, and the shells, both under and 
 top, nicely cut off, then drawn or emptied, and cut up as 
 desired. They are found in our large markets, sometimes 
 as early as May, and continue to cold weather ; occasionally 
 to be had in the winter months. They are kept alive in 
 large cars, and fed with cabbage-leaves, beet-tops, etc., of 
 which they appear to be fond. The dealers have them to 
 weigh from ten to upwards of four hundred pounds. 
 
 Green turtle are occasionally seen and taken in our waters, 
 although they belong in the warmer latitudes, West Indies, 
 Florida, etc. The Columbian, August 23, 1819, says : " On 
 Thursday last, a smack, coming from Whitestone through 
 Hell-gate, chased a large green turtle some distance, but the 
 game escaped by sinking under the small-boat at the mo- 
 ment of seizure." Better luck had Mr. Van Eanst, of the 
 Williamsburgh ferry, who, next day, off Bushwick Creek, 
 with a hook and line, caught one which weighed forty-eight 
 pounds, and refused five dollars for it at the dock. 
 
 Some few years ago one of our dailies told an amusing 
 
SHELL-FISH. 313 
 
 story of a distinguished politician from the rural districts, 
 who came to New York, and resolved to give a splendid 
 dinner to some of his party friends. In order to make sure 
 that every thing should be of the best quality, he went to 
 market himself, and bought first a turtle. After taking great 
 pains to select one of the finest specimens in the lot, and 
 ordering it to be sent home, he said to the fisherman, by 
 way of making it quite right — " This is a right-down genu- 
 ine turtle, ain't it?" "Certainly," was the reply; "one of 
 the very best." "Because," he added, "although I ain't 
 been in the city long, I ain't to be humbugged ; it won't do 
 for you to try to put off any of your confounded mock turtles 
 on to me." The turtle-dealer stood astounded at his cus- 
 tomer's sharpness. 
 
 The New York Daily Times, September 29, 1864, has 
 "A Curiosity. — Mr. Brittan, of the Mansion House, corner 
 of Bleecker and Crosby streets, several weeks since, imported 
 a lot of green turtle. They were killed shortly after their 
 arrival, and nothing more thought of the affair, until yester- 
 day, when about thirty young ones were found crawling 
 about the premises. On examination it was found that sev- 
 eral eggs had been laid near a wall heated by a range, and 
 in that manner incubation had taken place. The little ones 
 are quite a curiosity, being probably the first native-born 
 green turtle ever seen in this city." 
 
 Salt-water terrapin. — This is the well-known ter- 
 rapin of the epicure, and the best of the turtle tribe. They 
 are usually cooked with the shell on for the various dishes, 
 and considered best and fattest in the months of November, 
 December, and January. Almost any old New Yorker 
 recollects Alexander, or rather " Sandy Welsh," who kept 
 the " Terrapin Lunch," under the Museum. He could pre- 
 pare a dish of stewed terrapin that would make an old- 
 fashioned alderman shake his full round front and sides with 
 laughter, and, in the end, burst the buttons off his waistcoat, 
 while enjoying this luxurious feast. Sandy was the great 
 purchaser for all the terrapin at the Washington Market in 
 
314 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 his day. The largest portion come from the South, and 
 occasionally we have a few from Long Island. 
 
 A remarkable specimen is noticed by the editor of the 
 New York Commercial Advertiser, in the month of October, 
 1826. He says : " We have this morning examined a young 
 terrapin, caught yesterday at Staten Island, by Louis S. 
 Korkie, and by him presented to Mr. (Eeuben) Peale, for 
 the Pantheon Museum (at this period stood No. 252 Broad- 
 way), which is a very great curiosity. It has two heads, and 
 but four legs as usual. The heads and eyes are perfectly 
 formed. But what appears more singular, is the fact that 
 they are endowed with different instincts or intelligences — 
 that is, there is no concert of action between them. One 
 head often pulls one way, and the other another ; and it is 
 often a matter of some struggle in which direction the animal 
 shall move. Sometimes one is the master, and sometimes 
 the other, during which time the progress is slow. Now and 
 then, however, when they put their heads together, and have 
 apparently the same object in view, they walk off with the 
 ordinary speed of common terrapins. It is really a curiosity 
 which will afford much gratification to naturalists." 
 
 ^oft-shelled turtle. — The color of this turtle's shell is 
 of a dark slate, with numerous spots over it. The head has 
 a white stripe on each side ; the neck, feet, and tail, are 
 covered with white and black. The flesh is much esteemed 
 as wholesome and nutritious food. 
 
 IiOg*g*er-head turtle.— This turtle is sometimes 
 brought to our markets for sale, but are not much sought 
 after, and, of course, do not sell well, especially the large 
 ones. A small fat one makes tolerable soup for a hungry 
 man. They have quite a smooth shell on their back, a large 
 thick head, and appear quite helpless on land. 
 
 Hawks-bill turtle. — This is a scarce turtle in our 
 markets, but is sometimes found here. It has a small mouth 
 resembling the bill of a hawk. The shell is the " tortoise- 
 shell" used in combs, etc., but the flesh is considered poorer 
 eating than the logger-head. 
 
SHELL-FISH. 315 
 
 ^Leather-turtle. — These turtle are sometimes taken 
 on the coast or Sound, usually of very large dimensions. 
 Their mouth is different from either of the above ; the upper 
 jaw is somewhat like a parrot's, pointed down, which, when 
 shut together with the lower jaw, fits like a tooth of a steel- 
 trap. The shell on the back has five long raised ridges 
 running lengthwise. 
 
 An enormous specimen is now (1860) exhibited in Barnum's 
 Museum, which was taken on the 27th of September, .1811, 
 by Samuel Coon, and other pilots, off the coast, when it was 
 said to have weighed eight hundred pounds. The Colum- 
 bian, September 28, 1811, says of this " mammoth turtle :" 
 " Yesterday the pilots on board of the boat Young Pilot, at 
 sea, fell in with a sea-turtle, harpooned it, got it on board, 
 and brought it up to the city, when it was weighed in the 
 hay-scales at Whitehall, and found to weigh eight hundred 
 pounds, being by far the largest we have any account of in 
 this country. We understand Messrs. Coon, White, and 
 Torrey, the pilots who took it, have disposed of it to Mr. 
 Scudder, of the American Museum (then kept at 21 
 Chatham-street), where it may be seen." This turtle may 
 yet be seen in Barnum's famous museum, and thousands of 
 curiosities besides, for the small sum of twenty-five cents. 
 
 Another, no doubt of the same species, I find noticed in 
 an old paper, September 7, 1773, as having been taken on 
 the coast or Sound near New Kochelle, N. Y. " A turtle of 
 an enormous size, and singular form and marks, was taken 
 with a harpoon by Mr. Bleeker, and some others, near New 
 Bochelle ; his length is eight feet from fin to fin, and seven 
 feet three inches from stem to stern. He is spotted under 
 the fore-fins like a leopard, and discovered amazing swift- 
 ness after having been struck with a harpoon. He had 
 been seen among the rocks for three or four years, in the 
 neighborhood of New Bochelle, but was not known, before 
 the capture, to be a turtle. He is found to be upwards of 
 eight hundred pounds weight." 
 
 Snappers, or snapping turtle.— This is an ugly, 
 
316 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 savage-looking specimen of the turtle species, with a large 
 head, feet and claws. Sometimes known to weigh above 
 forty pounds. The flesh of the young — from two to five 
 pounds — are the best, being very nutritious and savory food, 
 but the large and old are sometimes quite strong, and of a 
 musky flavor. The eggs are esteemed by the epicure. 
 When found in our markets, the head is curbed or fastened, 
 as their jaws are like a vice when it takes a hold. It will 
 allow its head to be severed from its body before it will yield, 
 and I have heard of there being life in it seven days after. 
 
 In the month of July, 1820, the Commercial Advertiser 
 notices how a snapper was caught on Long Island : " A 
 lad of this Island, by the name of Eobert Sheila, recently 
 adopted the singular mode of catching snapping-turtles 
 with a rat-trap, and actually succeeded in catching one by 
 the nose, weighing twelve pounds nine ounces, by baiting 
 the trap with pork, sinking it to the bottom of a mill-pond, 
 where those turtles are plenty, and making it fast to a stake. 
 The one above-mentioned was taken by the trap, and from 
 the trap by Bob, in less than one hour after setting it." 
 
 In the year 1848, while on a hunting excursion, in cross- 
 ing a meadow in Westchester county, N. T., we came across 
 a large snapper, about the size of a peck measure, which 
 afterwards proved to weigh above twenty-five pounds. A 
 few days previous, I was told by my hunting companion, 
 that his daughter, then some twelve years of age, went to a 
 spring (some distance from the house) for water, and in 
 stepping on the stones near it, a large snapper, being under 
 one, suddenly snapped and caught the toe of her shoe, 
 which so frightened her that she had no power to call for 
 help for several moments ; she was, however, heard, and 
 before the ill-looking animal could be taken off, a sharp 
 axe was brought into action, which soon separated the body 
 from its vice-like jaws. 
 
 The Shenandoah Herald, 1824, relates the following cu- 
 rious incident, which happened within two miles of Wood- 
 stock : " On observing a large hen-hawk fluttering near the 
 
SHELL-FISH. 317 
 
 ground, it was discovered that he was held by a snapping- 
 turtle, who retained so firm a hold of one of its feet, that 
 it was with difficulty extricated after the hawk was killed." 
 It was supposed that the hawk intended to capture the 
 turtle, but got captured instead. 
 
 Another more remarkable incident occurred with one of 
 these animals, which was caught by an acquaintance, who 
 informed me that he put the snapper in hot water after 
 taking off his head, and a minute had not elapsed before 
 quite a large snake came out of the body and ran over the 
 floor, when it was killed. It was a hard story to believe, 
 but if a snake could be swallowed by the animal without 
 injury, then I must believe it, and therefore give it as I 
 heard it. 
 
 Red-bellied terrapin, or red-legs. — This variety 
 of the terrapin is much the largest, but not equal to the 
 salt-water kind for the table. Many are found in the Phila- 
 delphia markets, and occasionally seen in the markets of 
 New York, usually brought from New Jersey, where I have 
 taken them in the streams and mill-ponds, and also on the 
 land. Some persons consider them, in the winter season 
 (when fat), almost or quite the equal of any of the terrapin 
 species. 
 
 Fresh-water terrapin, or wood terrapin. — This 
 variety, I believe, is not the common fresh-water terrapin, 
 but much like them. They wear a brown-colored shell with 
 a reddish tinge, with also a reddish neck and feet, speckled 
 with black. Their flesh is considered equal to the preceding, 
 especially by those who take them, as they generally use 
 them in their families, seldom sending them to market. 
 
 Smooth terrapin* — This species is sometimes found 
 in the markets, with a smoother shell than the salt-water 
 terrapin, and considered almost its equal for the table. The 
 legs are shorter, and the head without the black spots. 
 
 Painted tortoise. — This is the handsomest of our 
 fresh-water species, and but seldom seen for sale. Not 
 much esteemed as an article of food. 
 
318 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 
 Spotted turtle, or speckled turtle.— This is the 
 common " skillepot" which inhabits almost every muddy 
 pond or sluggish stream. It is not generally eaten, its flesh 
 being of a muddy, insipid, and strong taste. 
 
 Frogs. — The edible frogs are known as the " Gibbou's 
 green frog," although I believe most all of the varieties are 
 eaten, or rather the hind-quarters. They are sold in oui 
 markets by some of the fishermen, ready skinned, at so 
 much per piece or dozen, according to the size. They are 
 very delicate, and quite sweet eating ; those who try them 
 once, seldom refuse to eat again of them. Foreigners, 
 however, use them most, and think they are more delicate 
 than the thigh of the woodcock, and praise the exquisite 
 dishes of which it forms the component part. They are 
 usually stewed, fried, fricasseed, etc. 
 
 Preparing fish for cooking. — The great thing to 
 be attended to in the preparation of fish, is to cleanse away 
 every particle that is offensive, and yet to do this in such 
 a manner that the fish may retain its stiffness, which is fre- 
 quently destroyed by the knocking about and handling it 
 while the process is going on. By this means the firmness 
 and fine flavor, if not wholly destroyed, is in a great degree 
 impaired. Another thing to be kept in mind is, that many 
 different kinds of fish require to be opened in a different 
 manner. Some require great pains to be taken in the 
 scalding of them, or cleansing them from their slime ; others 
 may be dressed without undergoing this process at all, or 
 even gutted ; and some there are, as fresh-water eels, cat- 
 fish, etc., for example, that require to be stripped of their 
 external skins altogether. Fish which are taken from 
 ponds, or stagnant waters, often have a muddy taste, which 
 exists only in the skin, and in the process of cooking this 
 flavor is communicated to the body. To remedy this, they 
 ought to be skinned, as they do with cat-fish, bull-heads, 
 eels, etc., or by soaking them in salt and water before 
 cleaning them for half an hour, then rinsing them with cold 
 water. But never leave a good fish one moment in the 
 
SHELL-FISH. 319 
 
 water after it is thoroughly washed — by this means the 
 flavor is often materially injured. 
 
 Preserving fish fresh. — Draw the fish and remove 
 the gills, then insert pieces of charcoal in their mouths and 
 bellies. If they are to be conveyed any distance, wrap 
 each fish up separately in linen cloth, and place them in a 
 box with cabbage-leaves above and below them. 
 
 THE FISHEKMAtf's FISHY F. FOET. 
 
 The Comic Times gives the following finished f-fort on the 
 fisherman's daughter, Fenella, which fun, fancy, and fame 
 will finish and fill up the catalogue of fish. 
 
 " A famous fish-factor found himself father of five flirting 
 females — Fanny, Florence, Fernanda, Francesca and Fe- 
 nella. The first four were flat-featured, ill-favored, forbid- 
 ding-faced, freckled frumps, fretful, flippant, foolish, and 
 flounting. Fenella was fine-featured, fresh, fleet-footed 
 fairy, frank, free, and full of fun. The fisher failed, and was 
 forced by fickle fortune to forego his footman, forfeit his 
 forefathers' fine field, and find a forlorn farm-house in a for- 
 saken forest. The four fretful females, fond of figuring at 
 feasts in feathers and fashionable finery, fumed at their fu- 
 gitive father. Forsaken by fulsome, flattering fortune- 
 hunters, who followed them when fish flourished, Fenella 
 fondled her father, flavored their food, forgot her flattering 
 followers, and frolicked in frieze without flounces. The 
 father, finding himself forced to forage in foreign parts for 
 a fortune, found he could afford a faring to his ^nq fond- 
 lings. The first four were fain to foster their frivolity with 
 fine frills and fans fit to finish their father's finances. Fe- 
 nella, fearful of flooring him, formed a fancy for a full flush 
 flower. Fate favored the fish factor for a few days, when 
 he fell in with a fog. His faithful filleys faltered and food 
 failed. He found himself in front of a fortified fortress. 
 Finding it forsaken, and feeling himself feeble and .forlorn 
 with fasting, he fed on the fish, flesh, and fowl he found, 
 
320 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 fricasseed and fried, and, when full, fell flat on the floor. 
 Fresh in the forenoon, he forthwith flew to the fruitful fields, 
 and, not forgetting Fenella, he filched a fair flower, when a 
 foul, frightful, fiendish figure flashed forth. ' Felonious fel- 
 low, fingering my flowers ? I'll finish you ! Go, say fare- 
 well to your fine, felicitous family, and face me in a. fort- 
 night !' The faint-hearted fisher fumed and faltered, and 
 was far in his flight. His five daughters flew to fall at his 
 feet, and fervently felicitate him. Frantically and fluently 
 he unfolded his fate. Fenella forthwith, fortified by filial 
 fondness, followed her father's footsteps, and flung her fault- 
 less form at the foot of the frightful figure, who forgave her 
 father, and fell flat on his face, for he had fervently fallen in 
 a fiery fit of love for the fair Fenella. He feasted her till, 
 fascinated by his faithfulness, she forgot the ferocity of his 
 face, form, and features, and frankly and fondly fixed Friday, 
 fifth of February, for the affair to come off. There was 
 festivity, fragrance, finery, fireworks, fricasseed frogs, frit- 
 ters, fish, flesh, fowl, and fermentry, frontignac flip, and 
 fare fit for the fastidious, fruit, fuss, flambeaux, four fat fid- 
 dlers and fifers ; and the frightful form of the fortunate and 
 frumpish fiend fell from him, and he fell at Fenella' s feet, a 
 fair-favored, fine, frank freeman of the forest. Behold the 
 fruits of filial affection." 
 
 VEGETABLE PLANTS. 
 
 We have shown the abundance of meats — fish, flesh, and 
 fowl — with which our markets teem. If thus bounteously 
 supplied from the animal kingdom, we have ample reason 
 to rejoice at the plenty afforded to us by the yieldings from 
 the vegetable kingdom. By the progress of the science 
 brought to bear upon that branch we now term " kitchen- 
 gardening," markets are supplied with the asparagenous 
 plants, spinaceous plants, edible marine plants, allicaceous 
 plants, acetaceous plants, edible fungi, leguminous vegetables, 
 
VEGETABLES. 321 
 
 esculent roots, the cabbage tribe, sweet herbs, plants used for 
 tarts, salads, and pickles, and the native and several of the 
 foreign species. 
 
 " Vegetables, as food for mankind, are used in larger pro- 
 portions than any other nutritive substances," some of 
 which are eaten while young and tender, but when more ad- 
 vanced in growth become unfit for use. The leaves and 
 stalks of some, and the roots and seeds of others, are used 
 for food. 
 
 It is not many years ago when the suburbs — or say twenty 
 miles around the City of New York — from Long Island, West- 
 chester, and New York counties, and New Jersey, furnished 
 the city with a plentiful and cheap supply of vegetables. 
 Long Island always bore away the palm for producing the 
 earliest and finest vegetables : with the increase of the pop- 
 ulation of our city a larger and wider area of land for the 
 supply of these articles became requisite, which increased 
 the distances from the general marts, whilst greater facili- 
 ties to bring these products of the earth to market became 
 paramount : from these causes the prices of vegetable-mar- 
 keting necessarily became greater. 
 
 Upon Connecticut, Massachusetts, Western New York, 
 New Jersey, and Pennsylvania, requisitions were made, and 
 now the Southern States, Bermuda Islands, etc., send their 
 early supplies to our markets — not only vegetables, but 
 fruits, fish, nuts, etc. — for months anticipating our native 
 supply. From Charleston, Norfolk, Savannah, and the 
 Bermudas, tomatoes, potatoes, peas, cabbage, onions, straw- 
 berries, cherries, are brought at least twice a week during 
 their seasons. Some of these articles are brought by hun- 
 dreds of barrels at a time. 
 
 Early in the spring from the South, and still later from 
 the North, many rare vegetables and other edibles are 
 brought to market by the facilities afforded by the railcars 
 and steamboats, thus inducing, as it were, in these latitudes, 
 artificial seasons. But when in their proper seasons, which 
 differs but a few days or weeks between the different cities, 
 
 14* 
 
322 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 from various directions they are daily gathered in vast quan- 
 tities ; then dispatched by the numerous railroads, steam- 
 boats, sloops, and vehicles of all sorts to their destinations, 
 and we find them in the various public markets the next 
 morning fresh and good. So great is the competition of mar- 
 ket-gardeners, and so immense the demand for vegetables of 
 all kinds, that all are sure to meet with a ready sale at remu- 
 nerating prices. 
 
 In noticing the following vegetable plants they will be 
 found placed in alphabetical order, and under two separate 
 heads, as follows : vegetables, and together include pot-herbs 9 
 and medicinal plants. 
 
 VEGETABLES. 
 
 Artichoke. — There appears to be two distinct plants of 
 this name used as food — the top or head of one kind, and 
 the root or tuber of the other. The best variety of the first 
 kind, or that preferred here, is called the globe artichoke, al- 
 though the conical, oval, large flat, etc., have many friends, 
 both here and in Europe. The part eaten is the fleshy por- 
 tion of the leaf of the flower or head, before it blooms, which 
 forms on the top of the stem. The plant itself much resem- 
 bles the thistle. (The whole heads are, however, sometimes 
 pickled.) The fleshy leaves are prepared as a salad, or are 
 best when stewed or boiled, and are found in season from 
 July to November. The French and Italians bend down 
 the leaves and stalks, bind them together, then cover them 
 with earth to blanch like celery, when it is known as arti- 
 choke-char ds. These ara eaten raw in winter, with salt, or 
 vinegar, oil, etc., as a salad or substitute for radishes. 
 
 The other species, of which the tuber only is used, is 
 called Jerusalem artichoke. The roots, or. tubers, of this 
 plant are^much like small, ill-shaped potatoes, which grow 
 in clusters of various sizes, forms, and colors, some of which 
 are white, yellow, red, and purple skinned ; but I believe 
 that all the varieties usually boil watery ; some, however, 
 
VEGETAL 
 
 stew them afterwards with butter and wine, -w^ 
 be found as pleasant-tasted as the real artichoke. 
 
 They are also very good cut up raw into thin slices, with 
 •vinegar, etc. They should be taken out of the ground in 
 September or October, and preserved in sand for winter 
 consumption. 
 
 Asparagus — This is one of the best and choicest lux- 
 uries of the vegetable kind, being a wholesome, digestible, 
 and a light food. Among the best varieties the green giant 
 asparagus is generally preferred, as its young shoots grow 
 thick and very tender. I have known it to grow so large 
 and fine that the cuttings from sixteen stalks weighed four 
 pounds, and many of them, singly, eight inches of tender 
 eating. Some prefer the white, others the purple top, but 
 neither kind is so sweet or tender as the green giant, grown 
 in the light sandy soil near the sea-shore. In boiling the 
 shoots, all should be tied up in one bunch, put into the pot 
 standing up, so that the water is up about half way ; then 
 boiled some ten to fifteen minutes ; then laid on its side, so 
 the water covers all, and thus finished, when principally all 
 the parts may be eaten. 
 
 The season of asparagus commences, with quite small 
 shoots and short bunches from the South, in the month of 
 April ; from New Jersey and Long Island in May and June, 
 and seldom fit for the table after the close of the latter 
 month. On the 17th of May I saw a bunch of green aspar- 
 agus, of twenty-four stalks, weigh exactly four pounds, 
 raised by Mr. Underhill, of Oyster Bay, and presented to 
 Hedden & Sons, Jefferson Market. A month "later, Mr. J. 
 B. Mingay, of the same market, showed a white bunch of 
 nineteen stalks weighing the same weight. 
 
 Beans. — The varieties of the bean are very numerous, 
 
 although they appear to be divided into but two sorts— the 
 
 garden, runner, or pole bean, and the field, bush, or dwarf 
 
 bean. These are used for the table in two ways: those 
 
 i eaten with the shell or pod are called string or snap beans, 
 
 i while the seeds of the others, called shell-beans, are alone 
 
_ KET assistant. 
 
 ±a, cranberry, kidney, dutch-caseknife, etc., 
 jf those I Lave known to be used in and out 
 ^£ pod, when young and tender. Then, again, 
 some ox mese varieties are subdivided into various kinds : 
 for instance, the lima is of two varieties, the white and 
 green, but are known as the potato lima, Carolina lima, 
 common lima, small lima, and so the names go through the 
 whole varieties. Among all the shell-beans the lima is con- 
 sidered the queen, as the Neapolitan is thought of -the string 
 or snap beans ; but all the varieties of the latter should 
 break or snap crisply, else they are not in their proper state. 
 The potato lima yields, when shelled, almost one-half more 
 than the common lima ; it has a short, thick shell, and the 
 seed also is much" thicker, usually producing three seeds or 
 .beans in a pod. The season commences with the string- 
 beans from the South — about the 1st of April — and con- 
 tinues, with a succession of new crops, until the middle of 
 November. These are followed by the shelled-beans, or 
 those to shell, generally about the 1st of May, and continue 
 throughout the year, although in the last few months they 
 are in a dry, or sometimes found in a soaked state in the 
 markets. 
 
 Beets, — There are also many varieties of this plant ; and 
 among the best for the table are the turnip- rooted, long- 
 blood, long-smooth, early bassano-turnip, etc. There are 
 also larger varieties, but these are generally used for feed- 
 ing cattle, such as the yellow turnip-rooted, mangel-wurtzel, 
 sugar beets, etc. The table beets are numerously used as a 
 pickle, in stews, soups, pies, etc., and, when new, their sea- 
 son commences about the 1st of June (being brought from 
 the South) and continues throughout the year. 
 
 Beet greens, or young t>eets. — The whole of the 
 very young plant (top and bottoms) of the early turnip- 
 rooted are usually boiled as greens, and are best in the 
 months of May and June, when they are very tender and 
 excellent. The young tops are also good alone. 
 
 Borecole, or green curled kale.— This fine table- 
 
VEGETABLES. 325 
 
 vegetable, of which there are several varieties, should be 
 well frost-bitten before it is fit for use ; after which the frost 
 should be drawn out by placing it in a cool cellar, or in cold 
 water. The parts used are the tender tops or crown of the 
 plant, with the side sprouts, which should be well boiled, so 
 as to be tender before being dressed and eaten. In season 
 as soon as the frost takes hold of them, and continues good 
 nearly all winter. 
 
 Broccoli.— This excellent plant is a variety of the cauli- 
 flower, but considered not quite so delicate in flavor, the 
 head or flower of which being somewhat of a purple cast, 
 while that of the cauliflower is of a creamy white. How- 
 ever, the qualities and varieties of both broccoli and cauli- 
 flower have become, by cultivation, so nearly alike— espe- 
 cially of the white varieties— that it requires the botanist to 
 distinguish between them. Broccoli are in season from 
 September to November, and may be kept longer if hung up 
 by the roots in a cool place. 
 
 Brussel-sprowts.— This plant is one of the species of 
 the cabbage kind, producing in the axils small heads re- 
 sembling those of the cabbage on a large stalk. They are 
 very tender, and much esteemed by those who use them, 
 which is generally in the winter-time, cooked as greens! 
 They stand the frost well, are in season from September to 
 January, but are not much cultivated here. 
 
 Cabbage.— There are several varieties of this excellent 
 plant. The "early York" is a great favorite, and widely 
 cultivated, on account of the excellence of its flavor, and its 
 early maturity. There is also the "early dutch," "flat dutch," 
 which the Dutch commonly slice and call it kohl-slaw, 
 or salat, meaning simply cabbage salad ; but the progress 
 here has corrupted it to cole or cold slaw. There are also 
 other kinds, more particularly used for saur-Jcraut, or sour- 
 Tcrout, called the drumhead, Bergen, etc. Another, called 
 the " savoy," a curled-leaf cabbage, is by some considered 
 the finest of all varieties, it being very tender, of a fine 
 flavor, rather a small head, but solid, and generally sold for 
 
326 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 higher prices than those that are much larger. The red 
 cabbage is another variety, and is generally used for pick- 
 ling. Young cabbage is found in our markets in May and 
 June, when it arrives from the South ; but the season about 
 here commences in July, and continues until cold weather ; 
 then, if they are put in a good cellar, or properly buried, 
 they can be kept almost the whole year. The London 
 Chronickj of 1765, gives the following account of a large 
 cabbage : " A gentleman of honor and veracity has furnished 
 us with the following surprising instance of the fertility of the 
 soil and mildness of the climate of the South American prov- 
 inces, viz. : He saw, a few days ago, in a gentleman's garden, 
 near Savannah, in Georgia, a cabbage-plant, which, having 
 stood the winter three years, and seeded annually, rises from 
 one root and spreads over a circular form of thirty feet, 
 measuring ten feet every way." In the year 1813, in the 
 month of October, a cabbage was sold in the New York 
 Market, which weighed forty-three pounds. 
 
 Capsicum, or peppers.— See Peppers. 
 
 Cardoons. — This plant is a species of the artichoke, but 
 much larger and taller ; the stalk part of the leaf and mid- 
 rib, when properly blanched, will be crisp and tender. They 
 are used for soups, stews, salads, etc. The Gardener s 
 Chronicle says : " When a cardoon is to be cooked, the solid 
 stalks of the leaves are to be cut in pieces, about six inches 
 long, and boiled like any other vegetable, in pure water (not 
 salt and water), till they are tender. They are then to be 
 carefully deprived of the slime and strings that will be found 
 to cover them ; and, having been thus thoroughly cleansed, 
 are to be plunged in cold water, where they must remain 
 until they are wanted for the table. They are then taken 
 out, and heated with white sauce or marrow. The process 
 just described is for the purpose of rendering them white, 
 and of depriving them of the bitterness which is peculiar to 
 them. If this is neglected the cardoons will be black, not 
 white, as well as disagreeable." In season from September 
 until Maich. 
 
VEGETABLES. 327 
 
 Carrots. — There are several varieties of this vegetable, 
 of different forms and colors — white, yellow, scarlet, etc. — 
 used for the table. They are a very useful root, either in 
 soup, stews, haricot, puddings, pies, etc., and are to be 
 found nearly or quite throughout the year in our markets. 
 The young carrots, which commence the season, are from 
 the South, which arrive about the 1st of May ; then from 
 Long Island, about the 1st of June, and continue on, with 
 new crops, until November, when those intended for the 
 table are put in earth or sand for winter and spring use, in 
 fact, until the young carrots are again found on sale. 
 
 Cauliflower. — This fine vegetable, of which there are 
 several varieties, is one of the luxurious plants which gen- 
 erally command a high price. The large, solid, creamy, 
 white heads are considered the best. When the leaves are 
 much wilted, and the head has dark soft spots through it, 
 they are stale and not good. The early kinds appear about 
 the 1st of May, and so continue on, in succession of crops, 
 until the frost destroys them. Besides plain boiling, they 
 are much used for pickling, soups, etc. 
 
 Cavish 5 scavish, or scabious. — This is a common 
 field-plant, which, in the early spring months, makes excel- 
 lent greens. The young leaves grow in tufts of a longish 
 shape, pointed at both ends, of a light green color, but of a 
 pleasant taste. The young stalk is also good, both of which 
 are soft and mucilaginous. The stalk produces a small yel- 
 low flower when in bloom. They will bear considerable 
 boiling to be good. 
 
 Celeriac, or turnip-rooted celery. — This tuber- 
 ous-looking root has a sweeter taste and stronger odor than 
 the common celery, and, when properly cooked, is very ten- 
 der and marrow-like. The tops look much like celery, but 
 are quite short and green, and are much used in soups, etc. 
 The root, however, is large, stout, and quite rough, and 
 when sliced and stewed German-fashion, it is excellent. It 
 is also boiled, then prepared as a salad. It is found for sal© 
 in the fall and winter months. 
 
328 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 Celery. — There are several varieties of this excellent 
 plant, of which the white solid, red solid, and the white 
 dwarf are now generally preferred. The latter, I think, is 
 the sweetest and tenderest in February and March. In 
 buying, select the solid, close, clean and white stalks, with 
 a large, close heart, as they are apt to be the most crisp 
 and sweet ; however, early in the season all celery is a little 
 bitter. The season commences about the middle of August, 
 and as soon as the frost is found, celery becomes sweeter 
 and better. It is found constantly in our markets after- 
 wards, until about the 1st of April. 
 
 Chard, or Swiss chard. — This plant is one of the 
 best of the beet tribe, but, unlike that vegetable, the root is 
 not usually eaten, but the large succulent leaves, which have 
 a very solid rib running along the middle. The leafy part, 
 being stripped off and boiled, is used as greens ; while 
 the midrif, or stalk, are dressed like asparagus ; and when 
 they have been properly blanched, by art, they have a pleas- 
 ant, sweet taste, and are considered very wholesome. They 
 are not much cultivated here, however. 
 
 Chicory, or wild endive. — The part of this plant 
 used is the long root, which looks somewhat like salsify, and 
 the leaves, when young, can be used as a salad. The root 
 has a smell like liquorice, and is principally used in the 
 making or mixing with coffee, when the root is properly 
 prepared ; that is, by cutting it up in half-inch pieces, then 
 dried in the air, after which it is browned in an oven or 
 kiln, then ground with either coffee, rye, beans, corn, pota- 
 toes, carrots, parsnips, acorns, or other cheap substances, 
 when these mixtures are attractively placed before the pub- 
 lic, and sold at high prices — often for pure coffee. Chickory 
 mixed with either roasted rye or coffee, is considered whole- 
 some ; but as it is a cheap article, and when mixed with 
 half coffee, should reduce the price to at least one-half — 
 with rye, about one-quarter. Either article, however, 
 should be purchased separately, then prepared to suit the 
 taste, when the purchaser would know what he was using. 
 
VEGETABLES. 329 
 
 In an examination by commissioners in London, who 
 found out of forty-two specimens of coffee, thirty-one to be 
 adulterated with chickory only, while twelve had roasted 
 corn in addition to chickory ; one had beans, and one had 
 potato-flour. The total result was, that one-third of the 
 whole weight consisted of adulterants, and in some cases 
 chickory was present to the extent of more than one-half. 
 " It was found that some of the grocers use a ' coffee col- 
 orer,' of a rich brown color : it consists chiefly of burnt 
 sugar, and appears to be used to deepen the color of poor 
 coffee, or of coffee which has been chicoried. The sellers 
 of cups of coffee at a cheap price are said to be very fa- 
 miliar with this ' improver.' The commissioners adduce 
 some curious examples of the discrepancy between the 
 quality and the high-sounding names of particular samples ; 
 thus, a packet of ' celebrated Jamaica' was found to be 
 nearly all chicory ; ' finest Java coffee' consisted of half 
 coffee, much roasted corn, and a little chicory ; ' superb cof- 
 fee' was principally chickory and roasted corn, with very 
 little coffee ; ' fine plantation Ceylon' was nearly all chick- 
 ory ; ' fine Java' contained much chickory and potato ; * de- 
 licious drinking coffee' contained a large quantity of chick- 
 ory and roasted corn." 
 
 The commissioners also examined thirty-four samples of 
 chickory itself, purchased indiscriminately at different 
 places, " and amongst them found carrot, parsnip, mangel- 
 wurzel, beans, acorns, roasted corn, biscuit-powder, and 
 burnt sugar. It had been stated in other quarters that 
 such strange substances as burnt rags, red earth, and rope- 
 yarn have been found in chickory ; but this belongs to the 
 transcendental regions of rascality." 
 
 Cives, chires, or shives. — This plant is a species of 
 the leek, with small, awl-shaped leaves, growing in tufts ; 
 and these are only fit for use so long as they remain green 
 and fresh. They possess a flavor peculiar to the onion 
 family, and are principally used for flavoring soups, salads, 
 omelets, etc. The Germans also make use of it in their 
 
330 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 smear-kase, etc. It is in season from April to June, and 
 usually found tied in small bunches. Foreigners are its 
 principal consumers. 
 
 Colewort, or collards. — This is a kind of small cab- 
 bage, cut young and eaten as greens, but it is not much 
 used in this country. It is, however, used in England 
 throughout the winter, and is in season from August until 
 March. 
 
 Corn. — See Indian Corn. 
 
 Corn salad, lamb's lettuce, or fetticus. — This 
 plant is principally cultivated as a winter and spring salad, 
 and is of a mild, agreeable taste and flavor. The leaves 
 should be eaten while young. They are sometimes boiled 
 as spinach, etc. 
 
 Cress. — There are several species of this warm and 
 pleasant-tasted plant, the shoots of which are much used 
 as an early salad. The most common is the water-cress, 
 which appears in abundance from March until May, and 
 then again from September until November. Another kind 
 is called the 
 
 Cfarden-cress, or pepper-grass, which is also eaten 
 when young as a salad. It has a pleasant, refreshing, pun- 
 gent taste, and may be had during the spring. Another 
 species, called 
 
 Winter-cress, or early hedge-cress, which is a 
 much larger plant, and is considered a species of the mus- 
 tard, is very pungent and biting. The young leaves are 
 most of the year used as a salad. There is also another 
 species of this plant, called by some 
 
 Indian-cress, or nasturtium. — See Nasturtium. I 
 might add another small variety, called 
 
 §inall water-cress, with much the taste of the 
 family of cresses. 
 
 Cucumbers. — This vegetable is called a fruit in botany, 
 and a cold one it is, although pleasant to the taste of most 
 people, yet they are not easily digested, nor is there much 
 nourishment in them ; but when pickled, or made into 
 
VEGETABLES. 331 
 
 pickles, they are then considered less unwholesome. There 
 are several varieties found in our markets, among which are 
 the early, short and long, prickly, green, white Turkey, etc. 
 The quite young or small ones, of various sizes, are used to 
 make pickles — in fact, many persons call them pickles when 
 asking for them. The very small ones are used for gher- 
 kins ; the large, or those nearly full-grown, are hard, and 
 commonly used as a salad ; and when they begin to soften 
 and turn yellow, or rather ripe, the Germans and others 
 prepare them in such a manner as to make some very 
 good dishes, among which frying is one of them. Cucum- 
 bers begin to show themselves from the South in April, 
 from Long Island, etc., about the 20th of June, and so con- 
 tinue in our markets until November, after which they are 
 found in a cured state, or pickled. Several other species 
 of the cucumber have been tried, but with little success, for 
 the table. 
 
 Dock, yellow dock, or patience dock. — The 
 curly and narrow-leafed dock is much used in the spring 
 months as greens. The broad, smooth leaf-dock, known as 
 " horse-dock," is considered not fit for use, and some say it 
 is poisonous. The former is often found in our markets 
 when young, is tender and sweet, and makes a very fail 
 dish of greens. The root is much used as a purifier of the 
 blood. 
 
 Dandelion. — This well known wild plant, by some 
 called " piss-a-bed," is now much cultivated, and is found a 
 very wholesome vegetable. Early in the spring — March 
 and April — the young leaves are used for salads and greens, 
 when it is found slightly bitter, but rather agreeable ; and 
 as it increases in size, it becomes full of bitter milk. How- 
 ever, by proper cultivation and blanching, it is found to be 
 both pleasant and wholesome. The roots are also used, and 
 much valued for their medicinal properties. In 1856, Messrs. 
 Hills & Stringer, of New York City, introduced " dandelion 
 coffee," made of the roots of this plant, which I found a 
 very pleasant drink. It was then prepared for the visitors 
 
332 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 to the Fair of the American Institute, then held in the 
 " Crystal Palace." 
 
 Egg"- plant. — This plant is called "guinea-squash" at 
 the South. There are several varieties of this excellent 
 vegetable, of which the large, purple, oval-shaped kind is 
 the best for the table. When cut into thin slices and fried, 
 they have the taste of an oyster ; but they should be firm 
 and hard, or rather, not ripe. They are much used in other 
 dishes, in soups, plain boiled, stews, etc. The white variety 
 is much smaller, being about the size and shape of a goose- 
 egg, and but seldom used — grown rather for ornament than 
 use. The egg-plant is in season from June until October. 
 
 Endive, Or succory. — There are several varieties of 
 this plant, of which the curled are found the most numerous. 
 The green curled is very crisp and tender ; but the white 
 curled is more so, but less hardy, and usually found quite 
 scarce. The broad-leaved Batavian — called, by the French, 
 scaroll — is much cultivated, but principally used by the 
 French and Germans. The leaves (only) are generally used 
 in soups, stews, ragouts, roasts, etc., but, when blanched, 
 they make a good salad. In season from September until 
 March. The roots of endive are also much used in Europe ; 
 the Germans prepare them like salsify, and they are also 
 dried and ground into powder as a substitute for coffee. 
 
 €rarlic. — This plant is a species of the onion, with an 
 acrimonious taste, and a most disagreeable smell. The root 
 grows in the shape of bulbs which are enclosed. It is much 
 used by the French in a great many dishes for seasoning, 
 soups, stews, and other dishes, and has also many medicinal 
 qualities. It is in season throughout the year, and usually 
 found strung as onions, in ropes or bunches. 
 
 Gherkins, or Jamaica cucumlber. — This small, 
 oval, light-green, prickly fruit appears to be a species of the 
 cucumber, but more thickly covered with prominent fleshy 
 spines or prickles, and usually about the size of a common 
 egg-plumb. It is also very full of small seeds, and a round 
 stem, three or four inches long, which is firmly attached to 
 
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VEGETABLES. 833 
 
 the fruit. When cut its smell is like that of a cucumber, 
 and its uses are generally for pickling ; but it should be 
 pickled before the skin grows tough. It is not much culti- 
 vated here, but, when found, it is usually in the months of 
 August and September. 
 
 CrOurd, or calabash. — This creeping plant, perhaps, 
 ought not to be placed among the table-vegetables ; but, as 
 its fruit, when young and tender, can be — and is, sometimes 
 — used for pickling like cucumbers ; and also, as this fruit 
 grows old, its shell becomes hard, light, and strong, which 
 can also be made useful either for water- dippers, substitutes 
 for buckets, etc., I concluded it was worthy of space some- 
 where in this volume. 
 
 Morse-radish. — This is a common kitchen-plant, the 
 roots of which are used ground, or cut into very small pieces 
 for salads, sauces, etc. It is, however, boiled by some. 
 The tops are also used when young as greens. It is always 
 in season. When freshly ground, it has an agreeable pun- 
 gent taste, but soon loses it when left open or exposed. 
 
 Indian corn, or maize, — The useful qualities of this 
 important plant are very numerous, and easily prepared 
 into a variety of forms fit for human food. Before it be- 
 comes hard and ripe the ears are fit for roasting or boiling ; 
 cut from the cob, and cooked with beans, makes the dish 
 called " succotash ;" or it can be dried and kept a long time 
 for future uses. When ripe and hard, it is prepared by 
 coarse or fine grinding for hominy, samp, mush, johnny cake, 
 bread, etc. There are many varieties, of which the siveet- 
 corn is considered the best for boiling ; and of this quality 
 there are several kinds, caused from peculiar culture, soil, 
 and climate. It begins to arrive from the South (Charles- 
 ton), about the 1st of June ; then from Philadelphia, say 
 from the 10th to the 15th of July; from New York, about 
 the 1st of August ; and continues, by a succession of crops, 
 to be soft and good until the 15th of October — although I 
 have eaten it in a good condition on the 1st of December 
 (1855). It was raised on Long Island, near Fort Hamilton, 
 
334 
 
 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 by Mr. Richard Bennett, and sold in the Jefferson and other 
 markets. But a few years ago, it was the custom for colored 
 women to sit around at the various corners of the market, 
 with their pails and tubs of hot-corn, which had been pre- 
 viously boiled ; and others, again, perambulating the streets 
 half of the night, with the cry of " Hot corn ! hot corn ! hot ! 
 just come out of the boiling-pot." 
 
 " The full-eared corn, at every well-known spot, 
 Prompts now the vender's cry, ' All hot ! all hot !' " 
 
 It is recorded in the Onondaga Standard (September, 1846), 
 that the Onondagas and other Indians have a grand feast 
 annually, which they call suckatasJi, or succotash. It states 
 that " the great suckatasJi was served up in the big kettle, 
 composed of all sorts of vegetables, mixed with corn and 
 beans, and seasoned with pork and a great variety of meats. 
 It is a luxury highly prized by the Indians as the consum- 
 mation of their harvest." 
 Kale, green-curled, — See Borecole. 
 Kohl rabi, turnip cabbage, or Dutch turnip. 
 — This vegetable was formerly known as " Egyptian kale ;" 
 
 is considered sweeter, 
 more nutritious and 
 solid than either the 
 cabbage or white tur- 
 nip. On a stem, just 
 above the ground, it 
 grows or swells out in 
 a round, fleshy bulb, 
 about the size and form 
 of a large turnip, on the 
 top of which it sends 
 forth its leaves. Among 
 the varieties, are the white, green, and purple stemmed — 
 the latter usually preferred for winter use, as it can be kept 
 sound and good until late in the spring. They are usually 
 found in the market about the middle of June, and are best 
 
 Kohl-Babi. 
 
■VEGETABLES. 335 
 
 for the table when quite young, being then more tender and 
 delicate. They may be cooked like the cabbage or turnip, 
 and eaten with the same condiments ; or they may be cut in 
 half-inch slices to boil ; then change the water once or 
 twice, and then serve it up with butter or cream poured 
 over it. They should be preserved like a cabbage for 
 winter use. 
 
 Lamb's quarter. — This common plant or weed, when 
 young, makes early greens, which are much used by country 
 people. The leaf is somewhat the form of a lamb's quarter, 
 which, no doubt, has given it the name. The root, stalk, 
 and leaves have a pinkish color, and, when boiled, are quite 
 pleasant tasted. Best in the month of May. 
 
 Leek, or flag onion. — This common plant of the onion 
 tribe shows large flag-leaves running up from small, fine 
 roots. They are generally found tied in bunches, or one or 
 two with a small bunch of parsley, tied up, being a quantity 
 sufficient for a soup or stew, etc., for a small family. The 
 leeks, when properly blanched, are boiled, and served with 
 toasted bread and white sauce, and eaten as asparagus. 
 The young leeks are found in August, and continue through- 
 out the winter. 
 
 Lentils* — These seeds or beans are not much used or 
 grown in this country, but are a favorite food with the 
 French and Germans, who consider them nutritious and 
 better tasted than the common bean, which they much 
 resemble. They are found in a preserved state in some of 
 our best grocery stores. 
 
 Lettuce. — This fine tender plant is by many called salad, 
 for which it is almost wholly used, and for which it is un- 
 rivalled. It is sought after early in the spring, even at high 
 prices, which cause many to grow it under glass. There are 
 many kinds, each of which is excellent — the early cabbage, 
 butter, drumhead, silesia, cos, etc. The hard lettuce raised 
 in the open air is generally found in the month of May, but 
 most abundant in June and July, and continues throughout 
 the year, except at short intervals through the winter. 
 
336 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 Mangel wnrtzel is a variety of the beet, but much 
 coarser and larger, although a wholesome vegetable either 
 for men or cattle. The leaves, when young, are quite as 
 good as the common white or red beet, as well also as the 
 thick, fleshy stalks, stripped of the leafy part, peeled or 
 scraped, then boiled. 
 
 The Commercial Advertiser, July 25, 1814, through the 
 Norfolk Chronicle, quotes the following : " The culture of 
 the Mangel Wurzel, or Root of Scarcity, which reaches the 
 size of from twelve to twenty pounds, is increasing rapidly 
 in this country. This esculent has proved its value and use 
 to many, particularly in the late severe weather, in affording 
 food for sheep, while the turnips were so long buried in the 
 snow. Fifty tons per acre have been obtained of this valu- 
 able root, upon good sandy loam, and applied to the pur- 
 pose of fattening oxen, sheep, and pigs, and feeding milch 
 cows, for which purpose it equals any food whatever." 
 
 Martynia. — This coarse, annual plant shows large 
 flowers, which grow into a curved pod, somewhat like a 
 cow's horn ; these, when green, and so tender as to allow the 
 skin to be easily cut with the thumb-nail, are then fit for 
 pickling. When ripe they are so hard and woody as to - be 
 useless. They are not much grown here yet, but, no doubt, 
 they will become quite plentiful, as they make an excellent 
 pickle. 
 
 Milk-weed or milk-vetch. — The young shoots, or 
 stalks, when sprouting out of the ground, say some four to 
 six inches high, make excellent, tender greens, even after 
 the young leaves become detached from the stalk they are 
 good. These and the young poke-weed, when sold in the 
 markets, are usually tied up like asparagus, in bunches, but 
 are shorter and of a lighter color. They are usually found 
 best in the month of May, and when grown in the shade are 
 more tender and sweet. 
 
 Morel, morill, or mascnl plant, — This vegetable 
 is closely related, or is a species of the mushroom, from 
 which it is distinguished by the cap, which is hollow within, 
 
VEGETABLES. 
 
 337 
 
 and adheres to the stem by its base, and latticed on the sur- 
 face with irregular sinuations. It grows in moist places to 
 the height of about four inches, and should be gathered 
 when the plant is perfectly dry. They are found to be rich 
 and succulent, when used the same as mushrooms or truffles. 
 They are better to dry than the mushrooms, as they do not 
 lose their flavor. They are found growing from May to 
 September. 
 
 jTlushrooms. — The edible mushroom is considered by 
 some as one of the most delicious, as well as one of the 
 
 most dangerous, delicacies of 
 our table ; it, therefore, re- 
 quires some knowledge to se- 
 lect the right or edible kind. 
 The young button, as it is some- 
 times called, has the top or cap 
 quite white, the gills or under 
 part are loose, of a light red or 
 flesh color, and as it increases 
 in size and age, the top changes 
 to a chocolate brown color, and 
 looks scurvy, when the gills also 
 change to a darker red. The 
 stem is also white and round, and changes dark with age. 
 The button is sometimes found almost of a globular form, 
 and when smooth and white it is the best and most savory. 
 Every eatable mushroom has a decidedly pleasant odor, 
 and is never slimy, while those which are dangerous are of 
 a bad odor, or are devoid of or have very little smell. 
 
 The following test, in some occasions, may be found use- 
 ful : " Sprinkle salt on the spongy part or gill of the mush- 
 room to be tried. If they turn yellow they are poisonous ; 
 but if they turn black they are good. Allow the salt to act 
 a little time before you decide the color." They are exten- 
 sively used for making catsup, stewing, pickles, etc. They 
 are in season during September and October, but by artifi- 
 cial culture may be had throughout the whole year. 
 
 22 
 
 MUSHROOMS. 
 
338 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 I found in one of the London papers, of 1817, of the 
 rapid and large growth of a mushroom. It was found grow- 
 ing in the middle of a blacksmith's fire-place, and measured 
 " ten inches long in the stalk, and fire and one-half inches 
 in diameter ; it was proved by the root of the plant that it 
 had grown there since eight o'clock the preceding evening, 
 at which time" the blacksmith left off work. 
 
 Mustard. — The leaves of the young, white, broad-leaved 
 kind is best for a mixed salad, or to boil with meat as greens. 
 It may be had at any time in a few days, by being sown in 
 a box and kept in a warm place. The excellent sauce is 
 generally made from the foreign ground seed, which invari- 
 ably appears on the table for a well-prepared dinner. The 
 seed is used for pickles and medicinal purposes. Black 
 mustard is also extensively used here, and is of the same 
 flavor as the former ; but I think it stronger. The country 
 people prepare this kind for their table use, when but a small 
 quantity is required to make the tears come, unwillingly and 
 unbidden sometimes. 
 
 Nasturtium or Indian cress. — This plant by many 
 is called stirtion, the young leaves of which are excellent in 
 salads. The flowers serve as a garnish for dishes of cooked 
 meats, while the buds scarcely formed, and the green seed 
 (pods or fruit), are preserved in vinegar, which make an ex- 
 cellent small pickle (used as the caper) for summer use, and 
 should be gathered in the month of August. 
 
 Okra or gumbo. — The green seed pods of this West 
 India plant, while young, are very highly esteemed, espe- 
 cially at the South, where it is much used, and also consid- 
 ered a very wholesome vegetable, as it produces a great 
 deal of mucilaginous and nutritious matter. The pods 
 should be young and tender. Of the three varieties — the 
 long-green, white-ribbed, and the short-green (which has 
 smooth, round pods) — the first is considered the best, either 
 green or dried. By slicing the pods into narrow rings, and 
 drying them on strings, they can be preserved for winter 
 use. It is much used in stews, soups, pickles, etc. The 
 
VEGETABLES. 339 
 
 ripe seed, when of sufficient age and carefully parched, can 
 be hardly distinguished, it is said, from genuine coffee. The 
 new okra is in season from August until the end of No- 
 vember. 
 
 Onions. — This well-known vegetable is used, in many 
 various ways, especially in seasoning soups, boiling, and, in 
 fact, it is an indispensable vegetable in cookery. Among 
 the principal and best varieties are the white, or silver- 
 skinned, yellow, and red, and they have also various names 
 according to their size, shape, season, and flavor. The very 
 small of the white kind are much used for pickling ; the 
 larger and other kinds are applied to other and various uses. 
 
 The first new onions are received from the South about 
 the 1st of May, usually from the Bermudas, packed in palm 
 leaf hampers, holding from a-half to one bushel, which 
 onions are large, flat, and red colored, but sweet and excel- 
 lent : then they follow from New Orleans, 1st of June, and 
 from New Jersey, Connecticut, Rhode Island, etc., from the 
 15th to the 20th of July. About thirty-five years ago the 
 common red onions were principally sold, fastened on a wisp 
 of straw about the size of a man's thumb, which were called 
 a " string" or " rope of onions," and I have heard them 
 called " bunch of onions." These were principally brought 
 from the Eastern States. They were tied three or four 
 dozen on this rope of straw with twine, by placing the foot 
 on one end, which end they commenced to tie on the onions 
 closely, round and round, until they reached the height of 
 the knee. However, when loosely tied, or the string broken, 
 many onions were lost to the purchaser, and sometimes also 
 the strings would be quite short, both in number and length ; 
 this, however, was soon accounted for by the seller, as hav- 
 ing been tied up by a " short girl." In the olden time a 
 certain weight was demanded by law, which appears in 1761 
 that a bunch, or " rope of onions," " shall weigh at least four 
 pounds net weight, under penalty of forty shillings." A 
 large onion was sent to the editor of the American Agricul- 
 
340 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 turist, raised from Mexican seed, grown in Denver, Colo- 
 rado, which weighed two pounds. 
 
 Orach, or or ache* — This plant is not much cultivated 
 here for the table, but in some parts of Europe the leaves, 
 with the tender stalks, are cooked and eaten, in the same 
 manner as spinach or young beets, to which it is generally 
 preferred ; they have a pleasant, acid taste. The stalk, 
 however, must be used while young, or they will be stringy 
 and worthless. 
 
 Oyster-plant. — See Salsify, 
 
 Parsley. — I know of but two kinds of this valuable con- 
 diment — the double-leaved, or curled, and the plain, or sin- 
 gle-leaved. The leaves are used largely in cooking or gar- 
 nishing. It is always in season, except at intervals through 
 the winter months. The roots are edible boiled as carrots, 
 etc., but not much used here. 
 
 Parsnips. — This -wholesome and nourishing root is very 
 desirable during the winter and spring months, when other 
 vegetation is scarce. Among the best varieties are the 
 " large cup" and " long-smooth ;" but those free from side 
 roots, being large, heavy, smooth, tender, and sugary, are 
 the choice. They are one of the vegetables which the frost 
 improves ; good to boil, for soup, making bread, and it is 
 said they make a good wine, resembling Madeira. 
 
 Parsnip chervil, or turnip-rooted chervil* — 
 This tuberous-rooted plant is yet but little known here. 
 In the south of Europe, however, it is spoken of as a valu- 
 able esculent root. In form and size it is much like the 
 early horn carrot ; skin of a grayish black, and the flesh 
 white, with a taste or flavor between the chestnut and po- 
 tato, or so I am informed, not having yet tasted or even 
 seen the plant. In season in August and September. 
 
 Peas. — This fine vegetable is familiar in the domestic 
 cookery of every country, and is here most extensively cul- 
 tivated and used when in season. In their proper season, 
 over three hundred wagons-load have been counted at one 
 of our public markets (Washington), laden with this pleas- 
 
VEGETABLES. 341 
 
 ant and nourishing food. Among the best varieties are the 
 early emperor, Warwick, may, dwarf, Prince Albert, cedo- 
 nulli, marrowfat, Japan, sugar, etc., the latter being usually 
 cooked in the pods, like string beans, and are truly excel- 
 lent ; but the marrowfats are undoubtedly the best for sum- 
 mer use. Peas should be always purchased in the pods, 
 and those should feel cool and dry. If closely packed they 
 have a mashed or wet appearance and a warm feeling, which 
 much injures their natural flavor ; and when the shells or 
 pods begin to turn to a lighter shade, or look rusty, the pea 
 has usually a black spot upon them, and is then found too 
 old to be good. But to have them in the greatest perfec- 
 tion — if it is possible — they should be cooked immediately 
 after being picked. The first new peas received here are 
 generally in small quantities and at high prices. They 
 come from the Bermudas about the 1st of April, from 
 Charleston about the middle of May, from southern New 
 Jersey about the 1st of June, from Long Island, etc., gen- 
 erally from the 10th to the 15th of June, and so continue 
 until September. Large quantities of dry, soaked, and 
 split peas are sold throughout the winter season. The Ja- 
 pan pea is one of the best varieties ; they, however, should 
 be boiled with salt meat to give them a delicious flavor. 
 
 Peppers, or capsicum. — The several varieties mostly 
 cultivated here of this hot plant, are the common red and 
 green, of the long and round kinds. The pepper pods, 
 when ripe, are red. The long red is dried and ground for 
 cayenne pepper. The green round pod makes a hot pickle 
 mixed with cucumber, as also does the stuffed pickle, or 
 mangoes, etc. The small kind, called the bird or cherry 
 pepper, is the most acrid of all the varieties. The b,ell pep- 
 per is the least pungent. This plant comes plentiful in 
 market about the 1st of September. 
 
 Pie plant. — See Rhubarb. 
 
 Pig- weed. — This common plant is much used by some 
 country people for early greens, and when gathered in a 
 young state — generally in the months of May and June — 
 
342 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 it is quite good, but somewhat troublesome to prepare. I 
 have not seen it on sale in our markets. 
 
 Poke, or poke-weed. — This common plant, when 
 young and the shoots are just appearing above the ground 
 in the spring (from four to eight inches high), makes a dish 
 when boiled, almost equal to asparagus, which it somewhat 
 resembles. It is usually found tied in bunches when for 
 sale. I have found it more plentiful in the Philadelphia 
 market than in any other, a great deal of which is brought 
 by the colored people and herb-gatherers. 
 
 Potatoes. — This most excellent edible root is, without 
 doubt, the most useful, wholesome, and nutritive of all the 
 roots now in use. Scarcely a dinner is prepared without 
 having this vegetable on the table. " They furnish flour 
 without a mill, and bread without an oven." 
 
 There are many ways of cooking this vegetable, but when 
 boiled orroasted, they are the best. They are also used in 
 bread-making, starch, and many other ways. They should 
 never be used when frozen and thawed, by the action of the 
 weather, as they are considered unwholesome and unfit for 
 use ; but when in a frozen state, they should be placed in 
 cold water, which slowly draws out the frost and renders 
 them edible. 
 
 The sooner potatoes are placed in a dark cool place after 
 being taken out of the ground, the better they will be both 
 for keeping and eating ; but if exposed to light and drying 
 wind it will detract from the flavor and otherwise injure 
 them. 
 
 Among the best varieties are the Carters, kidneys (black 
 and white), mercers, buckeyes, peach-blows, Prince Alberts, 
 Western reds, Dikemans, yellow pink-eyes, Jackson-whites, 
 rockwhites, northern-whites, Junes, Dovers, etc., etc., etc. 
 
 The Carters (at this period) are considered best for the 
 table, and are usually sold at the highest prices. The kid- 
 neys or white pink-eyes are not far behind them (once 
 thought the best) ; both, of late years, appear not success- 
 ful growers, and the Carters especially are subject to the 
 
VEGETABLES. 343 
 
 rot, as are also the mercers, which have been very success- 
 ful above twenty years ; but, for the last four or five years, 
 the peach-blow is taking the lead. 
 
 The first new potatoes received in the New York markets 
 in the spring are the highly prized Bermudas, in the month 
 of April. They are said to be the common Western reds 
 grown in the Bermuda soil. Then from the Southern States, 
 about the 1st of June, we receive the Charlestons ; about 
 the 20th, the Norfolks ; and from New Jersey and Long 
 Island, early in July, the early varieties appear, viz., the 
 yellow pink-eyes, rock-whites, northern whites, Dovers, etc., 
 which are only cultivated for their early growth, as they are 
 usually watery and not well-flavored. The old potatoes are, 
 at this time, found to be scarce, poor, and not much sought 
 after. A great quantity of Nova Scotias are received here 
 throughout the winter months, especially when the prices 
 are high. 
 
 I find an enormous Bermuda potato noticed, above one 
 hundred years ago, in the Weekly Gazette, dated October 3, 
 1748, as follows: "This day a potato, of the sort called 
 Bermuda potatoes, was brought to this city, being the pro- 
 duce of Plumb Island, in this province, which weighed seven 
 pounds and a half, is entirely sound and good, and was made 
 a present to the printer hereof by one of his customers." 
 
 "Doctor Fuller, of the 'Connecticut Betreat,'" says the 
 Hartford Courant, of 1839, " has gathered from one true 
 Bohan potato, presented him last spring, and which weighed 
 only four ounces, ninety-six pounds Jive ounces. One of the 
 potatoes weighed two pounds ten ounces, and the yield being 
 four hundred to one." 
 
 Sir Bobert Banks says : " The potato was first introduced 
 into England from America, by the colonists sent out by 
 Sir "Walter Baleigh, in 1586. In the year 1619, the common 
 market price was one shilling (English) per pound." Bowen, 
 in his picture of Boston, under date January 1, 1636, says : 
 " The ship Bebecca arrived from Bermuda with thirty thou- 
 sand pounds of potatoes, which are sold at two pence a 
 
344 THE MAKKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 pound." For a long time the potato was treated as a fruit, 
 baked in pies with spices and wine, or eaten with sugar ; 
 and it was many years after, before it was cultivated as a 
 field-crop. The date of the introduction of potatoes into 
 New England is generally stated as about 1720. In the 
 Charleston, S. C, news, New York Journal, etc., July 21, 
 1768, it is stated that " Irish potatoes are now produced 
 here in so great plenty that we have begun to export them 
 to other parts." More interesting history of this vegetable 
 is found in the same paper, June 22, 1791, which reads : 
 " Potatoes were first known and discovered in America in 
 the reign of Queen Elizabeth. John Hawkins first imported 
 them into Europe from St. Fee, in Spanish America. For 
 the first time, they were planted in Ireland by the brave Sir 
 Walter Raleigh, he having, at that time, an estate in that 
 kingdom ; but their history was so imperfectly understood, 
 that Sir Walter Ealeigh was resolved to renounce the ex- 
 pectation of bringing that exotic to any degree of perfection : 
 for, in some time after he had planted them, the stalk shot 
 forth, and, perceiving balls upon them, he concluded that 
 they were the delicious fruit ; but, upon boiling; he found 
 them not to be productive of either a pleasing or salubrious 
 beverage, whereupon concluded he had lost his labor ; but, 
 upon digging up the ground for other purposes, he dis- 
 covered, to his great surprise, that the fruit he was in quest 
 of lay concealed beneath the earth, which he found to be 
 most pleasingly grateful to the taste. Upon experiment, 
 it was found that treble the quantity of potatoes could be 
 raised from the same parcel of ground than of any other 
 exotic. They immediately became the principal food of the 
 Irish peasantry, and so remain to this day, being in as high 
 esteem among their first European propagators as punlcins 
 are in New England. From Ireland they were spread into 
 England, where they likewise met a most favorable recep- 
 tion, and from whence it has been erroneously asserted that 
 potatoes were natives of Ireland, although it is not above 
 
VEGETABLES. 345 
 
 two hundred and twenty-six years since they were first im- 
 ported into that kingdom." 
 
 Sweet potatoes. — There are many varieties, differing 
 in size, shape, color, and taste, of this vegetable ; but it is 
 seldom that there are more than two kinds found in our 
 markets — the red or purple rooted, and the white or yellow 
 rooted. The former is mostly cultivated in the Southern 
 States, and are much esteemed for their large size, sweet 
 flavor, and nutritious qualities. Our climate produces the 
 white or yellow rooted in more perfection ; and of this kind 
 great quantities are grown in New Jersey, from whence they 
 are brought to our markets in their season. They are a 
 much lighter food than the common potato. Thirty-five 
 years ago sweet potatoes were considered a luxury, and sel- 
 dom found on the general table ; then they were also known 
 as Carolina potatoes. When eaten raw these potatoes taste 
 much like chestnuts, when freshly taken out of the ball or 
 bur. The young leaves, and also the tender shoots, are 
 sometimes boiled as pot-herbs, and esteemed as a whole- 
 some food. They are in season from August until Decem- 
 ber, after which they begin to lose their flavor, and, towards 
 spring, get quite spongy and poor, without they are care- 
 fully preserved in dry, cool cellars. 
 
 In California the sweet potato grows to an immense size. 
 The editor of the Sacramento Union says he was presented 
 with one that measured two feet three inches in length, and 
 weighed five pounds. Another, of the Nashville Gazette, re- 
 ceived one which weighed nine pounds. 
 
 Pumpkins. — There are several varieties of this vege- 
 table much esteemed, and among the best is the cheese, 
 "West India, sugar, striped, etc., which are excellent for the 
 famous " pumpkin pies," pumpkin bread, etc. Their season 
 commences in September and lasts until January, when 
 they generally disappear, although, if kept dry and from the 
 frost, they will keep until spring. By cutting them in rings 
 or pieces, and plain drying them, they will also keep well. 
 Another process of drying them is noticed in the Ohio 
 
346 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 Farmer, who tells us to " cut them up and stew until they 
 are soft and dry ; pound and strain through a cullender ; 
 then grease pie-pans, and spread it on about a quarter of 
 an inch thick, and dry it ; roll it up, and put it away, in a 
 tight box or bag, from the insects. Each one of these rolls 
 will make a pie." I have tried what was called "pumpkin 
 meal" or flour, but it did not give satisfaction. 
 
 In the year 1839, the New Jersey Journal notices "a 
 pumpkin raised in a garden in Elizabethtown, which 
 weighed, when taken from the vine, one hundred and eighty- 
 seven and a half pounds, and measured seven feet in circum- 
 ference. There were also raised, in the same patch, six 
 other pumpkins, the average weight of all of which exceeded 
 one hundred and five pounds." Another, much larger, is 
 also noticed as having been raised by S. G. Allen, Esq., 
 of Jersey shore, Lycoming County, Pennsylvania, which 
 weighed two hundred and thirteen pounds. 
 
 In the Commercial Advertiser, October 19, 1813, Grant 0. 
 Thorburn advertises " a pumpkin weighing two hundred and 
 twenty-six pounds, and measuring seven feet five inches in 
 circumference. It is one of eight pumpkins produced from 
 two seeds, whose weights, added together, amount to one 
 thousand and seventeen pounds. It was raised on the place 
 of D. Gelston, Esq., in the neighborhood of this (New York) 
 city. Eight days after, is found, from the Boston Gazette — 
 "Extravagances of Nature. — Under this head, the Centinel, of 
 the 23d instant, asserted, rather hastily, that ( the Yankee 
 land is beat all hollow,' because a pumpkin had been raised 
 in New York State, weighing two hundred and twenty-six 
 pounds, and a squash weighing one hundred and eighty 
 pounds. These productions of nature are no doubt remark- 
 able ; but the fact is, the Yankee land is not beat, and, in- 
 stead of knocking under, claims the victory ! In proof, I 
 beg leave to inform you that there has been raised, in Scar- 
 borough, a pumpkin weighing three hundred and five pounds, 
 and nine feet in girth. This beats the New York one by 
 eighty- one pounds, at least. Further : in Windham, turnips 
 
VEGETABLES. 347 
 
 have been raised weighing twenty-five pounds^ thirty inches 
 in girth, and six inches deep. Further : in Stroudwater, a 
 carrot has been raised, twelve inches in girth at the head, 
 and three feet four and a half inches in length. Further 
 still : in Gorham, an ear of corn, eighteen inches in length, 
 containing sixteen rows, and one thousand one hundred and 
 twenty kernels of large, sound corn." 
 
 Extraordinary product from two pumpkin-seeds is thus 
 noticed in the Commercial Advertiser, October 20, 1818, 
 which were planted in May of that year, and " gathered last 
 week on the ground of the late Eev. Dr. Blair, Germantown 
 (Penn.), when it appeared that the exact weight of the whole 
 was fifteen hundred and tiuenty -eight pounds, one of which 
 measured six feet four inches in circumference, and weighed 
 one hundred and thirty-one pounds. There were several 
 others nearly as large. We have heard of no increase in 
 any part of the United States which has exceeded this, at 
 any time or in any season." In this opinion we also con- 
 cur, and think it has never yet been equalled. 
 
 A curious custom prevails in Paris of annually proclaim- 
 ing the King of the Pumpkins, " and of making a solemn 
 procession in honor of the largest vegetables of the species 
 which can be discovered. The ' king' of the present year 
 (1855) was grown at St. Maude, and weighed three hundred 
 and forty-eight pounds, being a little less than seven feet in 
 circumference.' ' 
 
 Purslain or pars I ail e. — This very common plant 
 has fleshy, succulent, tender, round leaves, which, when cul- 
 tivated, become much better and larger. The whole plant 
 is used, or rather it is best to cut the young growth off when 
 some five or six inches long. It is good boiled and eaten 
 as Spinach (when it is quite slimy), and considered whole- 
 some ; it is also used in salad, pickled, etc. 
 
 Radishes. — The cry of " Red-chis" is generally a wel- 
 come sound, as a harbinger of summer, being one of the 
 first vegetables that grow in the open air and make their 
 appearance here in the spring. It is not very nourishing, 
 
348 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 but rather pleasant, chiefly on account of its spicy, aro- 
 matic flavor. Among the best kinds are the long-scarlet, long- 
 white, white, red, and yellow turnip, black Spanish, etc., etc. 
 The young leaves are sometimes used in salads. Their sea- 
 son commences in the month of April, and continues with a 
 succession of crops until the appearance of cold weather, 
 when the black Spanish and the winter varieties can be 
 buried in dry sand for the winter's use, and in fact can be 
 kept until the new Badishes are again in the markets. 
 
 Rainpion. — This European plant has not yet become 
 much known here, although its character ought to recom- 
 mend its common cultivation. The root is long and white, 
 resembling the Radish in form ; has a pleasant, nut-like fla- 
 vor, and can be eaten raw like the Radish. In the fall and 
 winter months it is considered best, when the leaves as well 
 as the roots can be cut together for a salad. The whole 
 plant is found filled with a milky juice. There is another 
 species called 
 
 German rainpion or evening* primrose, which 
 is a common plant in this country, growing on the roadsides 
 and pastures ; but with cultivation the roots (only part 
 used) grow to the length of ten or twelve inches, in form 
 like a long carrot, but with a whitish skin on the outside, 
 which should be taken off, when its white flesh is fit to be 
 eaten in its raw state ; or, if for a salad, it is best quite 
 young. If, however, it is full grown it can be cooked as the 
 parsnip or shirret, etc. 
 
 Rape. — This plant of the cabbage species, with its fleshy 
 stem and leaves, is sometimes used in the same manner as 
 spinach, in salads, etc., and much better when touched with 
 the frost. It is rather scarce in our markets, at present, 
 but it may not continue so. 
 
 Rhubarb or pie-planf . — The stalk of this early and 
 highly-esteemed plant is the part used when the leaf has 
 grown a sufficient size. This fruit stalk makes wholesome, 
 cooling, and delicious tarts, pies, puddings, jellies, preserves, 
 
VEGETABLES. 349 
 
 wines, etc., resembling those made from apples and goose- 
 berries. 
 
 Among the many varieties, the Giant and Victoria are 
 generally preferred, as they produce the largest, finest, and 
 most succulent stalks, or petioles, which are most sought 
 after. In season from April until September. The leaves 
 of this plant, boiled as greens, are considered poisonous, 
 as they are said to contain a considerable quantity of oxalic 
 acid. In the month of May, 1844, the entire family of Mr. 
 Havens, of Bedford, New York, was poisoned by means of 
 rhubarb leaves boiled as greens. Four of the children came 
 near dying. 
 
 Rhubarb dries very well, and will keep good quite as long 
 as wanted ; it will shrink a great deal and resemble soft 
 wood, but before it is used it should be soaked one night. 
 
 Mr. Bergen, at the "Farmers' Club," N. T., June 6,"l859, 
 stated " that he had seen four stalks of this plant weigh 
 twenty-eight pounds ! !" 
 
 The editor of the Commercial Advertiser, May 15, 1830, 
 thus notices the introduction of this fine plant : " We can 
 not forbear mentioning that Mr. William Neale (who kept a 
 garden in Fifth-street, a few doors east of the Bowery) has 
 a large supply of that choice vegetable, the rhubarb, now 
 just coming into use in this country, as an esculent of excel- 
 lent properties." 
 
 Salsify, oyster-plant, or vegetable oyster. — 
 This fine vegetable has a grassy top and a long, tapering, 
 white root, somewhat the form of a carrot, w T hich, when 
 cooked, has a flavor much like the oyster. They are also 
 sometimes thinly sliced, and, with proper condiments, served 
 as a salad. 
 
 The tops, when young, are sometimes used as greens ; 
 the root, however, furnishes an excellent dish throughout 
 the winter. They are usually found for sale tied up in 
 bunches of about a half a dozen roots together. There are 
 one or two more species, one of which, called 
 
 Seolymus or Spanish oyster-plant, the roots of 
 
350 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 which are nearly white, fleshy, long, and tapering, some of 
 them from twelve to fifteen inches in length, full of juice of 
 a milk-white color. They are cooked in the same manner 
 as the preceding root, when their taste is found to be of a 
 pleasant and delicate flavor, and considered wholesome. 
 Another species of this plant is found, called 
 
 Scorzonera or Mack oyster-plant.— The root of 
 this plant is long, tapering, with a grayish-black skin and 
 white fleshed, which is tender, sugary, and well-flavored. 
 They are cooked as the parsnip, salsify, etc. ; but before 
 cooking the rind should be scraped off, and then left in cold 
 water for a* few hours, for the purpose of extracting their 
 bitter flavor. In season with the salsify, etc. 
 
 Sea-kale. This plant is one of the hardiest of the cab- 
 bage tribe, and grows about four feet high. In the fall the 
 plant is covered with earth ; in the spring the blanched 
 white shoots and stalks, which begin to force themselves 
 through this earth, are cut off, from three to six inches. 
 These, when properly prepared, cooked, and served, are 
 very delicate, sweet, and tender vegetables. The ribs of the 
 leaves, when skinned or peeled, are also prepared and eaten 
 as asparagus. In season in the spring months. 
 
 Shallot or eschallot. This plant is another of the 
 onion tribe, which is sometimes preferred, on account of its 
 peculiar flavor. The largest bulbs are best for seasoning 
 of soups, stews, salads, in vinegar, etc. In the green state 
 it is not used, but in the dry state it may be kept through- 
 out the year, About midsummer the new bulbs are found 
 in the markets. 
 
 Shepherd sprouts. This ragged-leaved plant is 
 among the first that sprouts in the spring, when it makes 
 good early greens. It grows somewhat like the dandelion, 
 in a tuft or cluster of long leaves, and remains fit for use un- 
 til the flower stalk begins to grow, when the leaves become 
 tough and bitter. It is one of the plants which lose but 
 little of their bulk when boiled. 
 
 Skirret.— This hardy vegetable is cultivated for its ex- 
 
VEGETABLES. 351 
 
 cellent root, of which is sweet and white-fleshed, haying 
 somewhat the taste of parsnip, and is generally cooked in 
 the same manner. It is not, however, much esteemed here. 
 It is in season in September, and lasts until the approach 
 of frost, when it should be preserved in earth or sand. 
 
 Sorrel. — There are several varieties of this plant, known 
 under the names of English, French, broad-leaved, blis- 
 tered-leaf, round-leaved, heart-shaped or wood-sorrel, etc., 
 and also a species called Tuberous-rooted Wood Sorrel. The 
 leaves of the former varieties are much esteemed, especially 
 by the French and Germans, who think it not only excel- 
 lent but very wholesome, especially with those who use 
 much salt provisions. It is boiled as spinach, used in sauces, 
 salads, soups, and many cooked dishes. The other kind, 
 called 
 
 Tuberous-rooted wood sorrel or tuberous- 
 rooted oxalis. — The tubers as well as the leaves and 
 flowers of this plant are used in various ways. Professor 
 Morren says : " The uses of the Oxalis are many. The young 
 leaves are dressed like Sorrel in soup, or as a vegetable. 
 They haye a fresh and agreeable acid, especially in the 
 spring. The flowers are excellent in salad alone, or mixed 
 with Corn Salad, Endive, of both kinds, red Cabbage, Beet- 
 root, and even with the petals of the Dahlia, which are de- 
 licious when thus employed. The roots (or tubers) are 
 gently boiled with salt and water, after having been washed 
 and slightly peeled. They are then eaten like Asparagus, in 
 the Flemish fashion, with melted Butter and the yolk of 
 Eggs. They are also served up, like Scorzonera and Endive, 
 with white sauce, and form, in whatever way dressed, a ten- 
 der, succulent dish, easy to digest, agreeing with the most 
 delicate stomach." It is not much cultivated here. 
 
 Spinach or spillage. — This fine, hardy plant is con- 
 sidered to be always in season, by a succession of crops, 
 the leaves of which are very succulent and wholesome, and 
 usually boiled for greens. The best varieties are the broad- 
 leaved, savoy, or curled-leaved, and the prickly-leaved. On 
 
352 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 the 24th of October, 1856, Mr. Joseph Cudlip brought to 
 Jefferson Market a head of spinach which weighed two 
 pounds and appeared to be quite tender. 
 
 Squash. — The varieties of this vegetable are very nu- 
 merous and most extensively cultivated. Among the most 
 esteemed are the Boston marrow, Yalparaiso, summer and 
 winter crook-necked, yellow butter, acorn, or Turkish cap, 
 apple, custard, early bush, etc. The latter is one of the 
 earliest, or first ready for use, about the middle of June, the 
 yellow butter about the 1st of July, the Boston marrow 
 about the 1st of August, and some of the varieties continue 
 by proper care to be good until the 1st of January. Ano- 
 ther new variety has been lately introduced and spoken 
 well of. It is called 
 
 Japan §cg_sia§lt. — This new species here was introduced 
 by Commodore M. C. Perry, who brought the seed from 
 Japan. It has some the appearance of a large watermelon, 
 but much heavier and quite solid. A specimen raised by 
 Judge Livingston, was by him presented to the Farmers' 
 Club, American Institute, in November, 1858, which weighed 
 seventeen pounds ; the seed ordered to be distributed. The 
 judge and others spoke highly of it for the table, cooked 
 as the egg-plant. One other larger specimen was burnt up 
 in the Crystal Palace fire, which took place October 5, 1858. 
 There were several very large squashes exhibited at the 
 Horticultural Fair of the American Institute held at their 
 rooms October, 1866, among which were two of the custard 
 /ariety, raised at Clifton, New Jersey, on the farm of James 
 Brown, Esq. These splendid squashes were, perhaps, the 
 finest and largest of this variety ever raised, and well de- 
 served the special premium awarded. Mr. Brown also re- 
 ceived, at the same time, another special premium for some 
 extraordinary large ears of very excellent white corn, which 
 attracted much attention. The Commercial Advertiser, Oc- 
 tober 8, 1813, speaks thus of a Mammoth Squash. " There 
 was yesterday brought to market a squash which measured 
 six feet eleven inches in circumference, and weighed one 
 
VEGETABLES. 353 
 
 hundred and fifty-two 'pounds. Fifty dollars was offered 
 for it." 
 
 Sweet corn. — See Indian Corn. 
 
 Sweet potatoes. — See Potatoes. 
 
 Talta-ruben, or German turnip. — These very 
 small species of the turnip appear to have been lately in- 
 troduced in onr markets. Those which I saw were about 
 the size of the common white radish, but not quite so long, 
 having two rows of fine roots growing on their sides from 
 top to bottom. The Germans and French purchase them 
 principally. They were on sale in the months of October 
 and November. 
 
 Tomatoes. — This excellent plant, many years ago 
 (1830), went by the name of love-apple altogether, and was 
 grown more for ornament than use ; but now it is consid- 
 ered a most valuable article of food, containing important 
 medicinal properties. Dr. Bennett says " that the tomato 
 is one of the most powerful aperients of the liver and other 
 organs ; where calomel is indicated, it is probably one of 
 the most effective, and the least harmful remedial agent 
 known to the profession — that a chemical extract may be 
 obtained from it that will supersede the use of calomel in 
 the cure of disease — that he has successfully treated diar- 
 rhoea with this article alone — that when used as an article of 
 diet, it is almost sovereign for dyspepsia and indigestion — 
 that it should be constantly used for daily food ; either 
 cooked, raw, or in the form of catsup, it is the most healthy 
 article now in use." Among the best varieties are the large 
 red, or common tomato, smooth red, apple and pear-shaped, 
 large and small yellow, fig, cherry, etc. They begin to ar- 
 rive from the South in the month of April, and weekly 
 grow more plenty ; then from lower New Jersey, Pennsyl- 
 vania, in the month of June, and New York along from the 
 1st to the 15th of July. Their season ends in November, 
 although they are to be had, in sealed packages, fresh and 
 good until the next year. 
 
 Truffles. — This species of mushroom, or fungi, is not 
 
 23 
 
354 THE MABKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 grown in this country, I believe, although it is often found 
 on the tables of our epicures and some of the first-class 
 hotels ; brought here by the aid of the steamers from 
 Europe. 
 
 The external appearance of the truffle is not at all inviting, 
 being almost black, and having rather a rough coat, with a 
 warty and ridgy surface, and usually about the size of a 
 small egg. The flesh is white and firm, of a close contex- 
 ture, and the taste, which is quite savory, resembles that 
 of the walnut or almond, and improves all it touches in 
 cookery. 
 
 They appear in great abundance in their native place 
 during the fall and winter months. Those which are sold 
 dried are devoid of flavor, and considered of no use. The 
 Morel is the only one of the tribe that will bear drying 
 without losing the properties for which it is held in esti- 
 mation for food. Truffles are found for sale either in fruit 
 stores, large hotels, or some of the eating saloons. 
 
 " Very little has hitherto been written about the truffle" 
 says the Horticulturist, " and we look in vain for any ac- 
 count of its habitat or methods of propagation in botanical 
 works. In scientific treatises it is classed in the ranks of 
 the esculent fungi, like the mushroom, and is named the 
 ' Tuber Cibarium.' * There are few of nature's produc- 
 tions,' says an English authority, ' so extraordinary as this 
 family of the fungi ; and in no other country than our own 
 are there so many varieties of the class to be seen, with 
 their curious shapes, their beautiful colors, and their fairy 
 rings springing up like magic after a night's rain or a damp 
 day.' Unlike the mushroom, this strange fungus is propa- 
 gated under the surface of the soil. They are found where 
 the soil is black, loamy, mixed with flint, or is composed of 
 chalk and clay. They grow close to the roots of large 
 trees, and seem to be propagated by the partial decay of 
 their long, fibrous roots, and nourished by the drippings from 
 their branches. They are found in shrubberies, plantations, 
 and woods, and sometimes in banks and ditches, but always 
 
VEGETABLES. 355 
 
 where trees abound, beneath them or at a little distance 
 from their stems. They grow in rings of clusters of six or 
 seven round each tree. ' Nor will they flourish beneath 
 every kind of tree, but frequent the oak, the lime and cedar, 
 and appear especially to love the beech, since wherever that 
 tree grows with the richest luxuriance, the truffles are found 
 in great abundance and of the best quality.' The usual 
 season when truffles are found in England is the month of 
 September ; but their appearance depends very much upon 
 the state of the weather. In a dry season, the truffle-hunter 
 will not look for them before October or November, and un- 
 til sufficient rain has fallen for their production. In favor- 
 able situations and in damp weather they will grow in a few 
 days. They will increase from a quarter to half a pound 
 in weight, and, in rainy seasons, they will sometimes reach 
 a pound, while they measure from four to six inches in cir- 
 cumference. The truffle resembles, externally, a rugged 
 knot of an old oak, or a piece of decayed wood. This is 
 the large truffle. There is another kind well known to the 
 truffler, though ignored in scientific accounts, called the red 
 truffle on account of its color, and is of the size of a pea, 
 and equal in flavor to the larger kind. This larger truffle, 
 when examined through the microscope, is found grained 
 with fibrous lines, and is of a firm, tough texture, white in 
 color when young, and growing darker until its ripeness is 
 shown by becoming entirely black. As the truffle grows 
 under ground, there would be some difficulty in finding it 
 were it not for the fact that, before it is cooked, it possesses 
 a peculiar odor — so powerful and so peculiar that no im- 
 position can be practised in its commerce. The raw truf- 
 fles, when ripe and fit to eat, possess this pungent and op- 
 pressive odor, which will pervade the whole house ; and 
 they must be boiled or stewed, when this odor will disap- 
 pear. This peculiar perfume is nearly imperceptible to the 
 human senses when the fungus is growing beneath the soil ; 
 and, for this reason, the truffle-gatherer is assisted in the 
 search for them by a peculiar breed of dogs that are trained 
 
356 THE MAKEET ASSISTANT. 
 
 for this purpose. ' Clever little clogs they are, and trained 
 from puppyhood to hunt the truffle out by the nose, and 
 then to scratch it up with their long, sharp claws. It is 
 curious and interesting to watch the powers of nose pos- 
 sessed by these small dogs ; how directly they perceive the 
 odor of the hidden truffle ; they rush to the place, straight 
 as a dart, even at twenty yards' distance.' ' 
 
 'Euckahoe, or Indian oread, somewhat resembles 
 the truffle, but is found in New Jersey, Virginia, etc. Its 
 qualifications are not yet much known. The Hon. James 
 M. Garnett says : " It has neither root in the ground nor 
 stem above, but grows a few inches below the surface, ap- 
 parently as unconnected with the soil as a buried cannon- 
 ball would be. It is oval in shape, and varies in size from 
 that of a goose-egg to that of a man's head. The coat is 
 rough, and of a dark-brown color — the inner substance 
 very white, similar in texture to that of the yam, and 
 of an insipid taste ; when fresh, however, it is somewhat 
 acrid. 
 
 In the Commercial Advertiser, August 21, 1816, an article 
 taken from the South Carolina Telescope says : " The (name) 
 tuckahoe is supposed to be of Indian origin, and has also 
 been applied to the truffle, a vegetable that grows entirely 
 under ground, and is a favorite dish at many tables." 
 
 Turnips, or turneps. — There are several varieties of 
 this common vegetable. Among the best are the early 
 white or greentop, yellowstone, cowshorn, red or purple 
 top, goldenball, Aberdeen, Euta-baga, or Eussian turnip, 
 the last of which (there are several varieties) is excellent for 
 winter use. The middle-sized common turnips are the best 
 for the table, as the large ones are apt to be spongy. They 
 are useful in broths, soups, etc., and more especially with a 
 boiled leg of mutton. 
 
 The season of new turnips commences about the 1st of 
 June from southern New Jersey, and continues with all the 
 varieties throughout the year. 
 
 The editor of the Commercial Advertiser (November 20, 
 
VEGETABLES. 357 
 
 1832) says : " We have this morning been shown by Mr. 
 Grant Thorburn one of the most striking natural curiosities 
 that we ever saw. It is a turnip raised in Minden, Conn., 
 which resembles a man's hand so closely as to startle the 
 beholder as it is unrolled from the paper in which it is 
 wrapped. The fingers are nearly perfect ; as also is the 
 thumb, save that it is withered a little since it was taken 
 from the ground. The fingers are also properly fitted to 
 each other, even to the natural crook of the little finger. 
 Mr. Thorburn gave five dollars for it." 
 
 VegetaMe marrow. — This vegetable is said to be a 
 species of the gourd, but found useful for culinary purposes 
 in every stage of its growth. When young, it is cut into 
 slices and fried with butter ; when more mature it is cut 
 into quarters, stewed in rich gravy, and seasoned to taste. 
 It is said to be both wholesome and nutritious. 
 
 Water-cress. — See Cress. 
 
 Yam. — The common yam is an excellent vegetable, 
 grown in the Southern States; but some seasons find it 
 plentiful in the Northern cities, and sold quite cheap. By 
 some it is more highly esteemed than the potato, which it 
 nearly resembles. It is much larger, more irregularly 
 formed, being of a long flat, and quite darkly colored. They 
 usually weigh from one to three pounds each ; but I have 
 seen them weigh over twenty pounds. They are in season, 
 and generally found here, in the month of September, and 
 last until January. Another species of the yam, called 
 
 Japanese yam, or Chinese potato, has been in- 
 troduced into our country through the Patent Office, in the 
 early part of the year 1855. In the fall of the same year, 
 Mr. Boll, a florist, exhibited at the Fair of the American 
 Institute several fine roots, which had some the appearance 
 of long white sweet 'potatoes. When fully matured and 
 plainly cooked — either boiled or roasted — with a little salt, 
 its flavor is much like that of the common potato, being quite 
 dry and farinaceous. One drawback, however, to its large 
 cultivation will be from the great depth it grows into the 
 ground. 
 
358 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 POT-HERBS, MEDICINAL AND OTHER 
 PLANTS. 
 
 The pot-herbs, or certain aromatic plants noticed in the 
 following pages, are those selected which appear to be the 
 most used in seasoning or flavoring other food, whether in 
 salad, sauces, stuffings, dressings, or other articles of cook- 
 ery ; while those deemed medicinal plants are commonly 
 used more or less in every family. 
 
 Alexander s ? or ailisanders. — This plant somewhat 
 resembles celery, with a smell of myrrh, and a pleasant 
 aromatic taste ; generally used as a pot-herb, or in salads, 
 etc., after being properly blanched. It is now seldom cul- 
 tivated, as the celery is almost universally preferred. 
 
 Angelica, garden — This plant, many years ago, was 
 much used. The stalks were blanched and eaten as celery ; 
 but now the stalks and leaves are made into a candied 
 sweetmeat by the confectioners, when cut in May. The 
 seeds are also used in cordials, and sometimes medicinally. 
 
 Anise-seed. — The seed of this plant is much used in 
 confectioners' candies, liquors, etc., medicinally, having an 
 aromatic smell and a pleasant warm taste. The green leaves 
 are also used for garnishing salads, and seasoning. 
 
 Balm, — This perennial plant has a light aromatic taste, 
 and the smell of lemon. The leaves are employed green 
 and dried, both as a medicinal and culinary herb. 
 
 Basil. — There appears to be two or three kinds of this 
 wild. The first is more generally used for making salads, 
 soups, especially mock-turtle. The flavor resembles cloves. 
 The common wild is seldom used in cooking. 
 
 Bene plant. — This plant is much used in the South 
 for culinary purposes. " The blacks in Georgia boil some 
 of the seeds with their allowance of Indian Corn. A few 
 leaves, when green, plunged a few times in a tumbler of 
 
POT-HEEBS, MEDICINAL AND OTHER PLANTS. 359 
 
 water, make it a thin jelly, without taste or color, which 
 children afflicted with the summer-complaint will drink 
 freely, and it is said to be the best remedy ever dis- 
 covered." An excellent oil is made from the seeds, after it 
 has age. 
 
 Birch. — There are several varieties of this plant or tree, 
 all of which are found useful, either for cabinet purposes, 
 building canoes, paper, etc. The sweet birch juice and buds 
 are used in candies, wine, etc., while the twigs are made into 
 brooms, etc. (See Birch-brooms, under head of " Dairy and 
 Household Products.'") 
 
 Bloodroot. — This plant, in the spring, brings forth a 
 beautiful small flower, which rises upon a single stem, and 
 enclosed in a single leaf. When the plant is broken, a red 
 juice oozes out, which has some the appearance of blood, 
 the root of which is used in medicine for coughs, croup, 
 fever, etc., and is considered a valuable wild plant. 
 
 Boneset, or thorough wort. — This is a common 
 herb, brought by the herb-gatherers to our markets and 
 sold principally" for medical purposes. 
 
 Borage. — This annual plant smells somewhat like a 
 cucumber. The young leaves, which have a wrinkled, rough, 
 hairy appearance, are, with the young shoots, boiled as 
 spinach, or prepared as a salad. The seeds are also used. 
 The flowers are also used for garnishing. 
 
 Brook- lime. — This plant grows in wet localities, some 
 ten to fifteen inches in height. The stem is quite smooth 
 and tender, with small fibrous roots growing out at the 
 joints. The whole plant can be used as a salad, or the 
 same as the water-cress. It is also excellent as a medi- 
 cinal plant. 
 
 Burdock. — The long yellow roots of this weed (as the 
 farmers call them) are found on the herb-stands, where they 
 are principally sold for medical purposes. 
 
 Burnet; or garden fournet. — The parts used of this 
 plant are the young oval-formed leaves, which have a warm, 
 piquant taste, and, when bruised, they have a smell like 
 
360 THE MAKKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 cucumbers. They are sometimes used as salad, or in soups, 
 etc. The roots are used medicinally. 
 
 Calamus, or sweet flag. — This plant is found in wet 
 meadows, the roots of which have a pleasant aromatic 
 flavor, and found plentifully for sale, more especially by the 
 colored people, on a Sunday morning, at Catherine Market. 
 It is used for flavoring and medicinally. 
 
 Capers. — These little buds are much used here, but they 
 come to us preserved. I find, from the Patent Office Re- 
 port, of 1854, that Mr. H. M. Bry, of Louisiana, has suc- 
 ceeded in raising two crops of this kind, equal to any he 
 had ever seen in Italy. They are used principally with 
 boiled meats. 
 
 Caraway. — This plant is chiefly cultivated for its seed, 
 which is generally used in confectionery, distillation, and 
 medicine. When young and tender, the under leaves are 
 sometimes used in soups. The seed is ripe in the autumn ; 
 and the root, when cultivated, is of a sweet, pleasant taste, 
 and was formerly boiled and eaten like the parsnip. 
 
 Cat Blip , or catmint. — This plant is gathered green 
 while the flowers are out, and often brought in that state 
 by the country wagons as a perquisite for the boys. The 
 flowers, leaves, and small stalks are much used as a medi- 
 cine for young mankind. The cats are also exceedingly fond 
 of it, which no doubt gave it its name. 
 
 Chamomile, or camomile. — The flowers of this 
 plant are used as a medicine, being very bitter. Extracts 
 are also made for medicinal purposes and bitter beers. 
 
 Chervil, or Cicely the sweet. — There are several 
 species and varieties of plants under the name of chervil. 
 The leaves of all the kinds, however, are generally used 
 either in salads, soups, etc. They have all an aromatic 
 taste, some quite strong of anise-seed, others, again, of other 
 flavors. It is much used among the French and Germans. 
 The young leaves can be used as they come up in succes- 
 sion through the season. . 
 
 Chickory.— The root of this plant has somewhat the 
 
POT-HEKBS, MEDICINAL AND OTHER PLANTS. 361 
 
 appearance of the parsnip and salsify, etc. It is considered 
 edible when cooked in the green state, like salsify, endive, 
 etc., and, when dried, it is used to adulterate coffee, and also 
 in brewing porter. It is rarely found in the green state in 
 our markets, but large quantities are sold in the dried. 
 
 Clary. — The leaves of this biennial plant are used in 
 flavoring soups, stews, and also in medicated wines, etc. It 
 is very good for digestion ; it has somewhat the appearance 
 of sage. It is found in the dried state, occasionally, in the 
 markets, on the herb-stands. 
 
 Coltsfoot. — The leaves of this plant are principally 
 used in colds and pulmonary disorders. They should be 
 cut in July and September, then dried in a shaded place. 
 
 CoHilrey. — The root of this rough-leaved perennial 
 plant is considered nutritious for man or beast, and the 
 leaves are good for cattle. It is only occasionally found 
 here for sale. It is also good as a medicine. 
 
 Coriander. — The seeds of this annual plant have a 
 pleasant flavor, and much used in confections and medicines. 
 Its leaves are also used in soups and salads. 
 
 Cost iiiary, or alecost. — This perennial plant has also 
 a pleasant taste as well as smell. The tender parts of the 
 plant are used as a pot-herb. The leaves alone are some- 
 times used as a salad, or to flavor ale or beer. Fit for use 
 in the summer or fall months. 
 
 ©ill. — The parts of this plant particularly useful are the 
 small, slim, green leaves — which appear somewhat like the 
 feathery leaves of the asparagus when fully grown — as also 
 the anibels and seeds are much used in pickles, etc. The 
 leaves alone are also used in some kinds of soups and by 
 some foreigners. The best time to gather this plant is the 
 month of July, when it is covered over with the small yel- 
 low flowers, and hang it up to dry. 
 
 Elecampane* — The root of this perennial is of a bit- 
 ter aromatic taste, which is principally used in medicine ; 
 but not much thought of. Found best when not less than 
 two years' growth. 
 
362 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 Fennel. — This plant is not yet much cultivated here, 
 but it is much used in Europe. Among the several varieties 
 most used is the common and siveet fennel; the first is used 
 in soups, broths, sauces, pickles, etc., and the young leaves 
 make a good salad. The stalks of the siveet fennel are the 
 edible part when parboiled or stewed. The odor is usually 
 found disagreeable. Generally found in season through 
 the months from June to January by successive plantings. 
 
 Hoarhound. — This perennial plant, or the parts used, 
 are found on the herb-stands ready prepared for sale. It 
 has a bitter aromatic taste, but is made quite pleasant in 
 candies, etc. ; is much used for colds. Large quantities are 
 gathered and prepared by the Shakers. 
 
 Mops. — The domestic use of the hop, or flower of this 
 plant, is pretty well known to almost every country house- 
 wife, and the brewer for malt liquors, small beer, ale, porter, 
 yeast, poultices, etc. There are several varieties, among 
 which are the English cluster, grape, and Pompey hop. The 
 young shoots are good for the table, when cut in the spring, 
 some five or six inches high. They are eaten as salad, or 
 boiled and served as asparagus, which they resemble. The 
 flower, or hop, should be gathered in August. 
 
 Hyssop. — This dwarfish perennial has a strong aromatic 
 scent, and the leaves and flowers are of a warm, pungent 
 taste. The young leafy shoots and flower-spikes are usually 
 cut as they are wanted. It somewhat resembles thyme, and 
 is used in salads, etc., and also medicinally. They are also 
 cut and dried, and used as other pot-herbs. 
 
 Juniper berries. — These small, dark, purple-colored 
 berries, about the size of a pea, but ovate in form, are found 
 growing on a low, flat-spreading sort of a cedar-bush, and 
 are sometimes brought to our market by the herb-gatherers. 
 Used principally to give an aromatic flavor to gin, and also 
 medicinally. They are also said to be one of the best an- 
 tidotes for the rot in sheep — about a half a gill per day, until 
 all apprehension is removed. There is another variety 
 growing on the common cedar, called 
 
POT-HEKBS, MEDICINAL AND OTHER PLANTS. 363 
 
 Cedar berries , but much smaller, which are much 
 sought after by robins^ cedar, and other birds, when mi- 
 grating in the fall months. When simmered in neat's foot 
 oil, makes a good ointment for lame backs, etc. 
 
 Iiavender. — This short, hardy plant, is generally more 
 used medicinally than in cookery, and more in the toilette 
 than either, as lavender-water, or oil of lavender, and also 
 to perfume clothing. 
 
 liicorice, or liquorice. — This useful perennial plant 
 is not generally cultivated here ; but its fleshy roots are 
 much used in colds, and by some porter-brewers. The 
 roots are best when grown several years. 
 
 Lovag'e. — This plant in appearance is somewhat like 
 celery, but quite warm and pungent ; sometimes used as a 
 pot-herb or a salad. It is, however, medicinally valuable, 
 both seeds and roots ; the seeds more especially by the dis- 
 tillers for preparing a liquor called lovage, as also by confec- 
 tioners. 
 
 ]?Iarsh-mallow. — This is an excellent mucilaginous 
 herb in making syrup or tea for a cough or colds ; but it 
 should be procured by one or from one who is well acquainted 
 with the plant. 
 
 Iflarsh marigold (called cowslip in the Eastern States). 
 — This is a common swamp or water-plant, which grows 
 from eight to ten inches high, with quite a thick stem ; and 
 when young the leaves can be used as greens as well as a 
 pot-herb. In Europe the flowers are used for flavoring 
 soups, stews, etc. 
 
 Marjoram, sweet. — This hardy plant, or rather the 
 tops and leaves, are much used both in a green and dry 
 state, and is a relishing herb in soups, broths, stuffings, etc. 
 The branches are cut in July or August, for drying, before 
 the flowers open, for the winter use. 
 
 Mint. — There are several species of this plant, which 
 are used in culinary, medical, and other purposes. Those 
 most in common use are the spear, or greenmint, peppermint, 
 'pennyroyal mint, etc. (See the following.) 
 
364 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 Pennyroyal.- -This common aromatic herb is some- 
 times cultivated for making an essential oil, and is also 
 used medicinally. Its odor is very annoying to some in- 
 sects, especially ticks ; therefore it is useful. It is found 
 for sale in cur markets, sometimes in great quantities. 
 
 Peppermint. — This is the plant which is mostly used 
 for distillation, in manfacturing the oil of peppermint, of 
 which great quantities are used by confectioners, druggists, 
 liquor dealers, etc. I have also read of its being used as a 
 pot-herb. Another variety, called 
 
 Spear mint, green mint, or common mint, is 
 more useful in cookery, in soups, green peas, or mixed with 
 salads, or sauce for roasted lamb, and also in preparing a 
 drink called mint-julep. The young leaves and tops, of from 
 one to six inches in length, are the parts used. As a do- 
 mestic medicine it is also popular, and deservedly so. 
 
 Pokeoerries, or pigeon-berries. — Strings of these 
 dark-purple juicy berries are occasionally found in our mar- 
 kets in their season, which are principally used for dyeing a 
 purple color. I have also heard of pies being made of them. 
 
 Rocket, or roquette. — This is an annual plant, indi- 
 genous to France, the young leaves of which are used in 
 summer in succession as a salad. The flowers have an 
 agreeable odor, like those of an orange. But it is not much 
 used here. 
 
 Rosemary. — This pleasant aromatic plant is both use- 
 ful and some kinds quite ornamental, especially the gold and 
 silver-striped varieties. The common, or green-leaved, how- 
 ever, is sometimes used for flavoring soups and stewed 
 meats, etc. ; also in drinks, as well as in the manufacture of 
 Cologne water. Its flowers and stems are also one of the 
 ingredients used in making " Hungary "Water," and the 
 stems alone as a garnish. 
 
 Rue. — This plant is now but seldom used other than as 
 a medicine. It has a strong, bitter taste, also very pungent 
 and penetrating, so much so, as to inflame the skin when 
 much handled. The ancients used it much in their cookery, 
 
POT-HERBS, MEDICINAL AND OTHER PLANTS. 365 
 
 both in soups and in vinegar. There are a few yet left who 
 use it for cooking purposes. It is seldom found for sale. 
 
 Sage. — There are several varieties of this perennial, of 
 which the common green is among the best. It has a strong, 
 fragrant smell, and a bitter, warm taste. Its leaves are 
 much used in stuffings, sauces, and in various other articles 
 of cookery. It is also' remarkable for its medicinal proper - 
 ties. Usually found tied in small bunches, green and dried. 
 
 Samphire, or sea fennel. — This plant is but little 
 grown here, on account of its difficult cultivation ; but its 
 leaves have a pleasant, warm, aromatic flavor. The fleshy 
 leaves and young branches are pickled in vinegar, and also 
 used in salads as a seasoning. 
 
 Sassafras* — From this small tree is gathered the young 
 shoots, which are sometimes used in the place of cikra, when 
 that is found scarce. The bark gives an excellent flavor to 
 spruce and other home-made beer ; that taken from the 
 root is, however, the best and most aromatic. This latter 
 is much used as a medicine, or in flavoring candies, or giv- 
 ing a pleasant odor to soap, etc. Large quantities are pre- 
 pared and sold. 
 
 Savory. — There are two kinds of this plant which are 
 used for culinary and medicinal purposes — the summer and 
 winter varieties. The aromatic leaves of the latter, as also 
 the tops, both green and dried, are much esteemed, and 
 used in seasoning peas, beans, dressings, salads, broths, etc. 
 It is also found for sale in a dried and pulverized state, 
 sealed in packages. 
 
 Southernwood. — This hardy plant produces leaves of 
 a bitter, aromatic taste, with rather a pleasant odor. These, 
 with the young branches, are employed in medicinal pur- 
 poses altogether. 
 
 Spruce, ftlaek or double spruce. — From the 
 young twigs of this tree are made the so much used spruce- 
 beer in summer ; it is also used medicinally. A great deal 
 is brought here by the herb-gatherers. It is also brought 
 here in tops and branches as an evergreen ornament. (See 
 Christmas Green, under Dairy and Household Products.) 
 
366 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 Nnmach, or smooth sumach. — This is a common 
 bush that grows on rocky, barren places ; the small fruit 
 grows in clusters, and when ripe (in September) is found of 
 a crimson color. They add much to make a pleasant drink, 
 especially for the sick. The leaves are much used in tan- 
 ning morocco, etc. 
 
 Tansey. — Large bunches of this peculiar-flavored plant, 
 or rather its leaves, are found on the herb-stands ; which I 
 now find is principally used as a medical tonic. Formerly 
 it was used in many culinary preparations. It is found best 
 in the spring months, when it is young and green. 
 
 Tarragon, or dragon's wort. — This plant, or rather 
 the leaves and young tops, are frequently used in salads, 
 soups, pickles, etc. They are of a hot and biting charac- 
 ter, and when put in vinegar (tarragon vinegar), it is highly 
 esteemed as a fish-sauce. They are usually ready for use 
 in the fall months. 
 
 Thyme (common and lemon). — This sweet little 
 shrub has an agreeable smell, with a warm, pungent taste, 
 the leaves and tops of which are much used in stuffings, 
 soups, sauces, etc. Of the two kinds, the broad-leaved and 
 narrotv-leaved, the former is generally preferred. It is gath- 
 ered green in the fall, then dried, and is so found for sale in 
 our markets tied up in small bunches. 
 
 Wormwood, or common wormwood. — This 
 plant is one of the bitter perennials, with a strong aromatic 
 odor. Its leaves and tops are sometimes used to flavor cor- 
 dials, and medicinally. 
 
 FRUITS. 
 
 " They are gold in the morning, silver at noon, and lead at night." 
 
 Fruits, although riot absolutely necessary as articles of 
 food, or even nutriment, with but few exceptions, yet, from 
 their very peculiarity and seasons and rarity, comparing 
 them with other productions, they have become a necessity 
 to man, in all climes, whether in the civilized or savage 
 
FEUITS. 367 
 
 state ; they are his luxury, nay, his dessert, whether partaken 
 of from the prolific hand of nature, or forced by man's hot- 
 house ingenuity ; whether eaten at the rich man's table, or 
 munched by the laborer on the roadside ; whether dealt out 
 to the million, or picked from the gutter by the ragged 
 urchin. Fruit is man's luxury under all circumstances — his 
 dessert. Apart from the general taste for fruits, " in their 
 seasons" and " out of their seasons," an inward voice — which 
 we call craying — demands these gifts of a beneficent Provi- 
 dence for certain ends to the physical welfare of man. They 
 are not only nutritious, but they are also medicinal in their 
 properties. They produce certain beneficial changes in the 
 blood (which medical men term " alterative"), which alters 
 the blood from an unhealthy to its healthy condition ; con- 
 sequently, by the use of ripe fruits, many diseases lurking 
 in the system are either neutralized or removed. Many 
 fruits have the peculiar medicinal property of "cooling" the 
 blood as it is termed, or in other words, rendering it less 
 liable to feverish or inflammable excitement. In European 
 countries, where the vast multitudes of populations actually 
 encumber the limited space upon which they exist, fruits, 
 although largely cultivated, rarely fall to the lot of many 
 millions of beings cabined, cribbed and penned in the 
 numerous large cities and towns. Even to the wealthy, 
 fruits are a luxury — a dessert. To the poor they are a 
 Tantalus : few live under their own " fig-trees ;" and. where 
 fig-trees grow, they are dealt out to those who neither work 
 nor delve. May we not attribute very many diseases affect- 
 ing the pent-up, impoverished artisans and laborers of all 
 large towns? In the United States, happily, the people 
 have an opportunity to seek and to obtain a portion of 
 God's favors to man ; and although fruits are not sufficiently 
 plentiful to supply the wants of all, yet fruit, to a certain 
 extent, may be obtained by the poorest of city populations. 
 It is worthy of remark that, notwithstanding the lavish 
 liberality of many of our housekeepers, with their willingness 
 to pay the largest prices for the best productions of our 
 
368 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 markets, we find few fruits offered for sale of first-class pro- 
 duction. Surely the fifty to one hundred per cent, higher 
 prices paid for the very few superior cultivated and perfected 
 fruits found and sold in the markets, would be an all-sufficient 
 premium to induce the fruit-grower to devote his attention to 
 procure the choicest varieties of different kinds of fruit. 
 
 Fruit in perfection should be full sized, sound, ripe, fresh, 
 and of the best varieties ; and, when most plentiful, they pos- 
 sess the best and highest flavor. When not intended for 
 culinary purposes, the earlier in the day they are eaten the 
 better, as they will be found the most invigorating stimulus 
 for other food. 
 
 With wondrous adaptation to man's convenience and en- 
 joyment, one delicious fruit succeeds another : thus, when 
 strawberries and currants begin to fail, raspberries and 
 cherries are ready, succeeded by blackberries and whortle- 
 berries ; then comes the sweet, juicy, beautiful peach, the 
 nectarine, and plum, followed by the luscious grape, the 
 mellow pear, and the crisp-snapping apple, in all their 
 various sorts and sizes, which continue on, and we never 
 tire of them. 
 
 " The luscious peach, the blooming nectarine, 
 Among the precious fruits of earth are seen. 
 Fruitful Pomona supplies the busy mart, 
 And suits man's palate, whether sweet or tart." 
 
 On the use of unripe fruits, the Journal of Health thus sets 
 forth : " It is very pretty to talk of fruits as the gift of 
 nature, which, as meant for man's refreshment, cannot, we 
 are told, be injurious. But people ought to define what 
 they mean by fruit. If it be the matured production of a 
 tree or shrub, in which the saccharine matter is properly 
 evolved and distributed through the pulpy matter, which 
 has itself lost its early tenacity ; in other words, if it be ripe 
 fruit they mean, we can see no objections to moderate eat- 
 ing of it. But if they libel the worship of Pomona to such 
 a degree as to call early green apples and pears, little 
 shrivelled peaches, water-melons without a particle of sac- 
 
FEUITS. 369 
 
 charine juice in them, plums as hard as bullets, fit offerings 
 at her shrine, and suitable food for either a rustic or a civic 
 population, why then we would condemn the immature 
 dietists to eat what they recommend. As well might we in- 
 sist on the consumption of darnel because it grows with 
 nutritious grain, or of ergot because it is part of the rye, as 
 talk of such vile trash as half of the fruit which is hawked 
 about being fit food for any animals except swine, and they 
 will give many an extra turn after a meal of it." And then, 
 again — "Be it remembered that the eating of ripe fruit does 
 not imply the necessity of swallowing the skin and stone 
 or seed, as many are in the fashion of doing. Certain it is — to 
 say nothing of the labor to which the poor stomach is put 
 on the occasion — nature never intended those parts of the 
 fruit to be eaten : the one is an external covering for the 
 purpose of protecting the nutritious part proper, the other 
 for perpetuating the plant." 
 
 The numerous varieties of fruits cultivated and wild, 
 foreign and domestic, received here and sold in our markets, 
 show the necessity, as well as the importance, of their being 
 perfectly cultivated. The several fruits will be found in 
 their order, alphabetically arranged. 
 
 Apples. — This excellent, healthy, and useful fruit is 
 found usually in great abundance in our markets through- 
 out the year. We have the early or summer apples from 
 the South sometimes as early as the months of May and 
 June ; one month later, we obtain them from our own dis- 
 trict ; and, still later, they are brought to us from further 
 north ; and the same supplies of apples apply to the fall and 
 winter varieties. 
 
 Apples for summer. — We have the white-juneating 
 early harvest, early strawberry, golden sweeting, yellow 
 bough, summer pippins, pearmains, rose, belle-flower, red 
 astracan, beswick, codlin, etc. 
 
 Fall or autumn. — From the month of September 
 until December, fall pippins, autumn pearmain, strawberry, 
 St. Lawrence, sweet swaar, porter, seek-no-further, Jersey- 
 
 24 
 
370 THE MAKKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 sweet, spice-sweet, pound-sweet, maiden-blush, Gravenstein, 
 Hawlej, or Dowse, etc. 
 
 Winter and spring 1 . — From the month of October 
 until March, Ehode Island greenings, Newtown or winter 
 pippins, Spitzenbergs, pearmains, baldwins, Yandeveres, 
 swaars, talman-sweets, winter-sweets, golden russets, etc. 
 Sometimes the Newtown pippins, Wagner's northern spy, 
 Roxbury russets, etc., are found on sale through the month 
 of June. The Newtown pippin, no doubt, ranks highest for 
 all general purposes. Biker says it was first cultivated in 
 an orchard near Newtown by one of the Moore family. 
 
 The Rhode Island greening is a very tender, rich, early 
 apple, but late in the season it loses flavor, and becomes 
 soft and insipid. It is said that it takes its name from the 
 cognomen of the gentleman on whose land it was found. 
 The fruit was first found — says Furman — in Ehode Island, 
 a short distance from Newport, near an inn kept by Mr. 
 Green ; hence it was called the Green inn apple. A slight 
 change, however, has come over the old appellation, which 
 is now simply " Greening." 
 
 The Spitzenberg and Baldwin are fine table-apples ; but 
 I might name fifty varieties, and each would have as many 
 admirers as being the best. 
 
 The kind of apples principally used for preserving or or- 
 nament, are the red Siberian crab, large Siberian crab, 
 yellow Siberian crab, large yellow , or Hagloe crab, lady 
 apples, etc. These beautiful crabs and lady apples are 
 usually found in the month of September, the latter generally 
 in November, and some of the varieties will keep until May. 
 
 "When wanted for preserves, they should be used before 
 growing mealy, as in that state they cook like sauce. 
 
 The numerous and various uses for apples of various 
 kinds are almost as many as the fruit itself. They are pre- 
 pared for drying, apple -sauce, apple-butter, cider, pies, 
 tarts, jelhes, fritters, dumplings, stewing, baking, the des- 
 sert, etc. Large quantities of dried apples, apple-sauce, 
 apple-butter, and cider are prepared and made by the 
 
FKUITS. 371 
 
 Shakers and others ; which are usually found on sale in 
 the fall and winter months. 
 
 Among the largest apples I ever saw, one was shown at 
 the American Institute Fair, held in September, 1860, which 
 measured eighteen inches in circumference, and weighed 
 three and a half pounds. It was of the kind called Gloria 
 Mundi. 
 
 Apricots. — This fine smooth-skin fruit is among our 
 earliest kinds, but never appears very plentiful, in conse- 
 quence of which it is sold usually at high prices. In flavor 
 it resembles the peach more than any other fruit — not quite 
 so juicy, but tender, well-flavored, and highly esteemed. 
 When not fully ripe, they make excellent tarts, preserves, 
 pastries, marmalades, jellies, jam, etc. Among the best va- 
 rieties are the breda, moorpark, peach, early golden, purple 
 or black apricot, etc. They ripen generally before the 
 peach, either in July or August, according to the season. 
 
 Bananas. — This delicious, wholesome, and nourishing 
 Southern fruit grows and appears here in bunches. They 
 grow separately on a stout twig or branch, in a spiral form, 
 to the number of from twenty to sixty in a bunch. They 
 appear in our markets in the month of March, both the red 
 and yellow varieties. The former is considered the best, 
 but it is found to be of the shortest season, as it is scarcely 
 ever found for sale after the 20th of July, while the yellow 
 variety continues on until the 1st of October. 
 
 Bojianas differ some from the plantain, being much shorter, 
 rounder, more mellow, and can be eaten raw, sometimes 
 roasted in fritters, preserves or marmalades, and pies ; and 
 the fermented juice makes an excellent wine. It resembles 
 fruit in its nature, very much like a luscious pear more than 
 any thing else, and hence my reason for calling it fruit. 
 
 Large quantities are brought from the West Indies, prin- 
 cipally from Baracoa, on the island of Cuba, and other 
 Southern countries. 
 
 Barberries, berberries, or pepperidge-bush 
 berries. — This little crimson fruit grows in clusters, and 
 
THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 so found on sale ; is seldom eaten fresh on account of tart- 
 ness, but principally used in pickles, jellies, sweetmeats, 
 soups, garnishing, and cooling drinks, etc. They grow on a 
 prickly or thorny shrub, and ripen in September and Octo- 
 ber. Sometimes they are quite plentiful in our markets. 
 The leaves of this fruit are eaten for a salad, and taste some- 
 what like sorrel. 
 
 Beach plum, or sand plum. — These small purple, 
 and sometimes crimson, fruit are found on or near the sea- 
 beach on Long Island, or in sandy fields near the salt water. 
 When ripe, the fruit is somewhat astringent, but rather 
 agreeably so, and is thus found in September. 
 
 Bilberries. — These small purplish -red fruit are some- 
 what the appearance of the tvhortleberries, but generally 
 smaller. They, however, grow upon a good-sized tree, like 
 in form of the apple or horse-chestnut, and the leaves pointed 
 like those of the birch. Whortleberries of the smaller kind are 
 sometimes called bilberries, but they differ in taste, the latter 
 being of a much richer tart in flavor. They are found quite 
 plentiful north and east of New York ; usually ripen in the 
 latter part of x4.ugust or first of September. 
 
 Blackberries. — There are several varieties of this 
 fine, wholesome fruit, among which the Lawton, Kittatinny, 
 "Wilsou's early, Dorchester, etc., are considered the choicest 
 kinds. The Lawton, however, is the largest and finest 
 which cultivation has yet produced. The Wilson's early 
 ripens from five to ten days earlier than either of the other 
 varieties, but the Dorchester soon follows it, being a much 
 sweeter and finer-flavored fruit, somewhat like the orange. 
 Perhaps, however, the first to ripen are the running black- 
 berries, or dewberries, which in certain localities grow very 
 large and fine, on a creeping ground-vine ; and, especially 
 when exposed to the sun, they become sweet and excellent. 
 The common hio-bush blackberry is the poorest kind, being 
 small, round, irregular in shape, of a reddish-black, and 
 rather a tartish taste. Another variety, called the thornless 
 blackberry, is a fine-looking berry and pleasant-tasted, but 
 
FRUITS. 373 
 
 very scarce. The name given to this variety is in conse- 
 quence of the bush being nearly or quite thornless. 
 
 Blackberries commence to ripen about the 10th of July, 
 and continue until the 1st of September, although I have 
 seen the Lawtons in the market until the 1st of October ; 
 but the fruit was rather flat-tasted, or had lost its rich fla- 
 vor. To have these berries in perfection, they should be 
 ripe enough, that when the bush is shaken those which drop 
 will be found just about as good as you can have them. 
 They also make excellent wine, syrup, puddings, etc. Many 
 are also found dried on sale. The root of the bush makes an 
 excellent decoction for summer complaint. The wliite-fruited 
 variety seems to be grown more for novelty than for use. 
 
 Black gum berries, sour gum berries, tupelo, 
 or pepperidge-berries. — These small, blue, oval ber- 
 ries, with large pits, are found growing on large trees. Of 
 a sour taste, until the frost has taken hold of them, when 
 they become ripe, and with an agreeable, tartish flavor. 
 Their taste is so pleasant that I should think they could be 
 used in jellies, tarts, etc. They are generally found grow- 
 ing two together on a thin twig, and might be properly 
 called twin-berries. When a boy I knew them to be called 
 Drams in Westchester County, N. Y. 
 
 U u ffh lo - berry. — See JShepardia. 
 
 Cherries. — These are some of the first delicious sum- 
 mer fruits, which are always grateful and acceptable, es- 
 pecially at the dessert, and are much improved in their fla- 
 vor by placing them in ice an hour or two before serving 
 them up. The first of this fruit which we receive are gen- 
 erally from Norfolk, etc., from about the 10th to the 15th 
 May, and so continue till near the month of August. 
 Among the many varieties which appear in our markets are 
 the White-hearts, May-Dukes, Black-hearts, Dikemans, 
 Black-mazzards, Black-tartarian, Black-Eagle, Honey, Ox- 
 hearts, Kentish, or common sour cherry, etc., with the small 
 wild cherries. A great many of the sweet varieties are 
 used for the dessert, and in a canned state ; for improving the 
 
374 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 
 flavor of brandies, used in the dried state, etc. The Kent- 
 ish, or common sour, is much used in pies, tarts, preserves, 
 puddings, etc. 
 
 Citron.— This fruit is of the lemon species, but larger 
 warted and ribbed, or furrowed. Its thick, fragrant rind is 
 generally found here in a preserved state ; this and the pulp, 
 which is subacid, are used in confectionery, sweetmeats, 
 plum-puddings, preserves, etc. The best of this fruit comes 
 from Leghorn, Nice, etc. 
 
 Cranberries. — This berry is pretty well known for 
 the fine tarts, pies, and jellies it makes. Of this there are 
 several varieties, but only two that are at present extensive- 
 ly cultivated or found in our markets, which are the cherry 
 and the bell cranberries, the former being the prettiest and 
 that most sought after, and looks much like that fruit, after 
 which it is named. The Bell Cranberry is oval, somewhat 
 like an Egg. The cultivated fruit are the largest, most per- 
 fect, and of the best flavor. The season for the fresh fruit 
 commences about the 1st of September and continues until 
 April. In Southern New Jersey many are left on the vines 
 all winter, or until the snow and ice admit of their being 
 gathered. These are usually quite ripe, sweet, and of a 
 dark color. In February, 1865, they sold at wholesale for 
 forty dollars per barrel. 
 
 The American Cranberry is found growing in a wild state 
 in the Eastern, Middle, and Western States, and produces 
 large crops without cultivation. It is said that this fine 
 fruit was first noticed by the botanists who accompanied 
 Captain Cook, in 1778, who found it growing spontaneously 
 on the northwest coast of America and about Hudson Bay. 
 It was taken to England, and for many years cultivated in 
 the garden of Sir Joseph Banks as a curiosity. In 1813 he 
 produced, from a bed eighteen feet square, three and a half 
 Winchester bushels of cranberries, being at the rate of four 
 hundred and sixty bushels to the acre. 
 
 Captain Henry Hall, of Barnstable, Massachusetts, is no- 
 ticed as having cultivated this fruit almost fifty years ago, 
 
FEUITS. 375 
 
 (1866), with perfect success. The Eastern States have the 
 credit of preparing them for the market in the most cleanly 
 and best manner, so that they arrive in our markets looking 
 fresh, plump, and sound. 
 
 Currants. — This useful, wholesome, and cooling fruit 
 is much used in its green and ripe state for many purposes 
 and preparations. The green currants are much sought af- 
 ter, just before they begin to color, or grow red, for pies, 
 tarts, stews, to can, etc. They are generally in market 
 about the first of June, and grow ripe in July, when they 
 will hang on the bushes, especially if covered, until Septem- 
 ber, and are used for jellies, etc. A very pleasant drink is 
 also made from them. Among the best varieties are the 
 Cherry, Red, and White-dutch, White grape, Black Naples, etc. 
 The Black currant is a different species, not having the same 
 flavor as the common currants, but a flat and strong taste, 
 and are the best for jam, jelly, etc., when made for the sick. 
 
 Dried currants. — These are usually sold in our fine 
 groceries, and when plenty, at the markets. They are pre- 
 pared in foreign countries, and are best from the Levant 
 and Grecian Islands. The new dried fruit arrives here in 
 the months of December and January. There are a few of 
 the common currants dried in this country, but are not much 
 sought after, 
 
 Custard apple. — See Pawpaw. 
 
 Dates. — This is a fruit of a palm-tree, of an oval drupe 
 form, somewhat like the acom, and of a yellow color ; the 
 pulp is soft, sweet, of a vinous flavor, and encloses a large 
 oblong stone or kernel. They are found here in a preserved 
 state, pressed into a sort of matting called trails, and when 
 sold by retail they are cut or broken in lumps. They are 
 usually sold by the pound. The fresh fruit arrives here in 
 the months of January, February, and March. The first 
 cultivation of the Bate in North America, says Furman, was 
 made in the summer of 1826, by Dr. Grant, of St. Simon's 
 Island, in Georgia, successfully. 
 
 Dewberries. — See Blackberries, 
 
376 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 Elderberries. — These small, black berries are pleasant- 
 tasted, when ripe, and are brought to our markets to be 
 used for various purposes. They make the Elder-paste, for 
 the sick, which is considered excellent, Elderberry wine, a 
 wholesome and agreeable beverage, sometimes used for 
 making pies, etc., and when gathered while in flower make 
 the Elder Flower Tea, etc. The bark also makes an excel- 
 lent ointment ; in fact, the whole plant is much used in 
 medicine. The berries are in season in the months of 
 August and September. 
 
 Fig's. — The fresh, ripe Fig has an insipid, sweet taste, are 
 considered nutritive and wholesome, and when a person be- 
 comes accustomed to eating them they are usually fond of 
 them. In this climate it requires some artificial assistance 
 to bring them into a ripe and perfect state, although I have 
 read of two crops being produced annually. It is usually 
 ripe in August. (I, however, have eaten them ripe in July.) 
 Preserved figs are found here quite plentiful, brought from 
 foreign climes, They are considered best when fresh 
 brought here, in the months of December and January, after 
 which they will bear close examination, especially those 
 which are " hawked around" are apt to be wormy and are 
 often spoiled. 
 
 Fox grapes or wild grapes. — This fruit is found 
 very plentiful in their season, or when in a green and in the 
 ripe state. The green grapes appear about the 15th to the 
 20th of August, when they are used for pies, preserves, etc., 
 then about the 20th of September they are found ripe and 
 changed to a dark blue color. They are very round and 
 soft, with rather a pleasant tart taste, but a little foxy, and 
 last until November. (See under head of Grapes.) 
 
 Goose berries. — There appears to be many varieties of 
 this fruit, but I do not deem it necessary to name only the 
 different colors as they are found in our markets. The red, 
 yellow, green, white, and those of a medium size, free from 
 rust, are generally found the best. They first appear from 
 the South in May, and continue until the 1st of August. 
 
FRUITS. 377 
 
 They make excellent tarts, pies, sauces, preserves, goose- 
 berry wine, etc. 
 
 &raiiaclilla or May-apple. — This fine fruit is known 
 at the South as the Granadilla, where it grows in the great- 
 est perfection, generally about the size of an Apple, and 
 larger, with a sweet, yellow pulp. I have never seen it in 
 our markets, but am told it is found sometimes in the Phil- 
 adelphia markets, more especially in the Southern cities, 
 where it is used as a dessert. 
 
 Crrapes. — There are several species of the native, hardy 
 grape, of which the Isabella is the most popular. The Ca- 
 tawba ranks very high, as also the Concord, Diana, Clinton, 
 etc., all of which are favorites. There are also several new 
 varieties, among which are the Eebecca, Delaware, etc., 
 which promise well. Grapes commence the season about 
 the 1st of September, and last until November, and when 
 properly kept, a month or two later. They are principally 
 used for the dessert, preserves, jellies, or to can. 
 
 It is interesting to know that at least three of the best va- 
 rieties were cultivated by ladies. The Isabella Grape, which 
 thrives best and is most productive in the neighborhood of 
 New York and other places, was introduced by George 
 Gibbs, Esq., of Brooklyn, Long Island, from North Carolina, 
 about the year 1814. His wife, Mrs. Isabella Gibbs, who 
 took a prominent part in its further cultivation, was compli- 
 mented by having her first name given to this fine, large 
 blue grape. The Diana Grape also took its name from Mrs. 
 Diana Crehore, Massachusetts, and the Rebecca from Mrs. 
 Eebecca Peake, of Hudson, N. T. The origin of the Clinton 
 Grape is also worthy of notice, as found from Professor 
 North's statement (see Journal of the N. Y. S. A. Society, 
 vol. 7, 1864), who says : "The Clinton Grape was so named 
 from our village, and originated in the horticultural amuse- 
 ment of a student at Hamilton College. The original Clin- 
 ton Grape-vine is growing over a tall elm on the east side of 
 Dr. Curtis's house, on College Hill. It was planted there 
 in 1821 forty-three years ago, by Hugh White, of Cohoes, 
 
378 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 then a junior in college. Having a fondness for gardening 
 and tree culture, he planted a quantity of grape-seed two 
 years before in his father's garden, in Whitesboro'. Out of 
 the many hundreds that came up, Mr. "White selected one 
 that looked more promising than the others, and planted it 
 east of the house of Dr. Noyes, with whom he then boarded. 
 This seedling vine proved to be a rampant grower and won- 
 derfully productive ; with bunches long, compact, quite uni- 
 form, with berries small, a very dark purple when full}* ripe, 
 quite palatable early in September, yet improved in flavor 
 by the frost. As a grape for making wines and jellies, the 
 Clinton is quite a favorite in latitudes where the Catawba 
 will not ripen." 
 
 We have also the luscious foreign grapes in perfection, by 
 the assistance of the hot and cold graperies, from April un- 
 til December, among which are the Black Prince, Black 
 Hamburgh, White Muscat, White Sweet-water, Tokay, etc. 
 The Syrian (a white species) produces the largest clusters. 
 Those raised by artificial culture are sold sometimes at very 
 high prices, varying from fifty cents to three dollars per 
 pound, and are usually found at the large confectioneries 
 and saloons. The White Malaga, of foreign growth, is found 
 at our large fruit and grocery stores. 
 
 Grape-fruit or forbidden fruit. — This is a species 
 of the orange, but of a bitter and tart flavor. The inside 
 skin, which surrounds the fleshy cells, is of a disagreeable 
 bitter. They have much the appearance of the shaddock, 
 but smaller. In season usually with the Orange, and not 
 much adinired. 
 
 Crroimd cherry — See Vegetable Cherry. 
 
 Honey bean or sweet locust-fruit —The fruit or 
 pod is flat, crooked, and long, of a reddish brown color, and 
 full of hard seeds, enveloped in a sweet, pulpy substance, 
 much like honey, when it is ripe, but becomes sour after a 
 frost. In my boyhood I have travelled miles to get " honey 
 beans." 
 
 June berries, wild service berries, or iTIay 
 
FKUITS. 379 
 
 cherries. — These are a small, pear-shaped, purplish, red- 
 colored fruit, about the size of large Bilberries, of a sweet, 
 pleasant taste, when ripe. They grow on a bush or small 
 tree, usually from six to ten feet high, and ripen in the 
 month of June, when they continue about one month. 
 Birds are very fond of them. 
 
 Lemons. — This is one of the most common of the foreign 
 fruits, principally used in cooling summer drinks, and for 
 various culinary as well as medicinal purposes. The rind 
 or peel is also used in flavoring a variety of dishes, and also 
 in preserves. They are almost always to be obtained. 
 Fresh fruit, both of this and the following, arrive in the 
 winter from the West Indies, and in the spring from the 
 Mediterranean islands. 
 
 Limes. — This fruit is a small species of the lemon, of a 
 paler color, thinner skin, and the taste of a bitter acid, 
 although quite cooling. The green fruit is much esteemed 
 for its preserving qualities, but is seldom to be found here. 
 It is usually more scarce than the lemon. 
 
 Ulandrake, May-apple, raccoon-berry, or wild 
 lemon. — This fruit is a stranger in our markets, and only 
 occasionally found among our citizens ; and, no doubt, if it 
 was esteemed at all, it would be cultivated and become more 
 plentiful. It is found growing in many parts of our North- 
 ern States, more particularly on new-cleared lands. It grows 
 singly, and seldom two are found on a stalk ; with much of 
 the appearance of an egg-plumb, and with a sickish sweet 
 taste. It ripens in September and lasts until frost. There 
 is another peculiar-looking fruit, which, some forty years 
 ago, became known to me, and, in fact, to many boys of my 
 acquaintance, as the May-o.pple. However, afterwards, I 
 found it generally known as pinhster-apple, and hog-app>le. 
 It was not at all like an apple either in form or flavor, being 
 in shape irregular, without pits or seed, of a light green 
 color, sometimes nearly white, and juicy without a pleasant 
 flavor. It grows on a small bush, and ripens in May and 
 June. I have often gathered them on the grounds now 
 
380 THE MARKET ASSISTANT 
 
 occupied by that beautiful place known as the Central 
 Park. 
 
 Medlar. — This fruit is quite round, and about as large 
 as a plum, though some varieties are as large as an apple. 
 The pulp is thick, and contains five wrinkled stones ; but 
 they are not much esteemed until they have been touched 
 severely with the frost. The large Dutch medlar is of the best 
 quality. They are, however, but very seldom seen here. 
 
 Melons. — It is said that there are but two species of this 
 fruit — at least, that we cultivate successfully : the rough or 
 embroidered coated is called the mush-melon, and those with 
 a smooth thick skin are called ivater-melons. These are 
 divided into many varieties. From the mush-melon are the 
 nutmegs, citron, cantaloup, pineapple, etc. Of these, the citron 
 is most valued for its sweetness, richness, and high flavor. 
 They appear from the South— usually from Charleston and 
 Savannah — about the 1st of August. The nutmeg is pre- 
 ferred by most people for its high musky flavor and large 
 size, and the skin appears as if covered with a net, ribbed 
 or crossed like the nutmeg spice. They are in season a 
 short time previous to the former, and are found more 
 numerous. The cantaloup is the first ripe mush-melon, but 
 it is not so much cultivated as the two former. It, however, 
 enjoys a sweet and pleasant flavor. The mush-melon appears 
 not to have been generally cultivated around New York, prior 
 to 1818, as we find, in the Commercial Advertiser, August 
 28th, of that year, the following in relation to this fact : 
 
 " $fush-melons.— The cultivation of this fragrant fruit has 
 long been a disgrace to the New York market. Although 
 every care has been repeatedly taken to distribute seeds of 
 the best species, such repeated carelessness has always 
 attended every effort to improve the breeds, that we had 
 almost abandoned every hope that our market would rival 
 Philadelphia in the production of this exquisite fruit. We 
 are indebted, however, to Mr. Aaron E. Jones, from that 
 quarter, for having supplied us, most abundantly, this sea- 
 son with mush-melons of the first quality, and of the most 
 
FRUITS. 381 
 
 delicious flavor, and at very reasonable prices. He has, by 
 experiment, convinced our horticulturists that good melons 
 are as easily cultivated as bad. This is the second year which 
 has amply, we trust, rewarded this enterprising person. 
 Last year he commenced his experiment at Hoboken ; but 
 the present season he removed to Guanos, Long Island, a 
 kindlier, earlier soil. The following calculations, founded 
 on inquiry and pretty accurate estimates, will show the re- 
 ward he is likely to reap from his enterprise. 
 
 " Mr. Jones has cultivated eight acres of land with mush- 
 melons solely. He planted sixteen thousand hills, which will 
 certainly yield for market three melons per hill, is forty- 
 eight thousand melons. These forty-eight thousand melons 
 will probably average ten cents per melon, is four thou- 
 sand eight hundred dollars, which gives a product of six 
 hundred dollars per acre. Allowing one half for the ex- 
 penses of manure, culture, and bringing to market, will 
 leave a net profit of two thousand four hundred dollars — 
 equal to three hundred dollars per acre. 
 
 " This instance of successful enterprise is held up as an 
 incentive to gardeners and farmers in the vicinity of this 
 city to follow this profitable example. Instead of the toil 
 and trouble attending the cultivation and bringing to mar- 
 ket boat-loads of unpalatable fruit, how much more pro- 
 ductive will it be to cultivate from the choicest seeds, un- 
 mingled with any other inferior qualities, and thus secure 
 a certain profit !" 
 
 Among the best varieties of the ivater-melon are the 
 Spanish mountain sweet, orange, Carolina, apple-pie, citron 
 water-melon, etc. The Spanish variety is certainly one of 
 the best, being very sweet, rich, and excellent. The skin is 
 of a dark green, and slightly marbled rind, moderately 
 thick, with a red, solid flesh. This variety is extensively culti- 
 vated on Long Island, New Jersey, etc. 
 
 The orange water-melon is of a round shape, and of a 
 smaller size, and, when ripe, must be cut through the skin 
 like an orange, and the rind taken off without breaking the 
 
382 THE MAKKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 pulp, then divided by cutting between the lobes, when it 
 will be found delicious eating. The Carolina icater-melons 
 are very good here when fresh, and are found here in the 
 latter part of July. The citron icater-melon ripens late, and 
 is quite small and round, with a very thick skin or rind, and 
 generally used for preserves.. 
 
 Apple-pie water-melon. — This Japan species of melon is 
 but lately introduced here, and appears, with the aid of a 
 little lemon-juice, to make excellent apple-pie, or one that 
 you cannot hardly tell the difference. It will keep quite 
 well all winter. 
 
 To judge water-melons, when ripe and fit to eat, they 
 should, when pressing them between the hands and knees, 
 make a sort of cracking noise, and, when knocked on by the 
 knuckles, will emit a sort of hollow sound, but never by their 
 great weight. It, however, requires practice to judge them 
 properly. 
 
 The common use of melons, some one hundred and fifty 
 years ago, is referred to in the following extract from Sir 
 John Chardin's Travels in Persia, in 1720 : " Melons, in the 
 common season, which lasts full four months, are the daily 
 food and sustenance of the poorer sort of people. They live 
 upon nothing but melons and cucumbers, the last of which 
 they eat without paring them. There are some that will 
 eat five and thirty pounds of melon at a meal, without mak- 
 ing themselves sick. During these four months they come 
 in such vast quantities to Ispahan, that I can't help believ- 
 ing that they eat more there in a day than they do in France 
 in a month. The streets are full of horses and asses that 
 are loaded with them, from midnight till morning, and all 
 the day till sunset." 
 
 Hullierries. — There are several varieties of this excel- 
 lent and wholesome fruit. The red, black, and white are 
 the only varieties with which I am acquainted. The best of 
 these is the red, being full of seeds and having an agree- 
 able acid, sugary taste. The black is larger, more sugary, 
 
FRUITS. 383 
 
 or rather more of a sickening sweet after several of them 
 have been eaten, but are best when not too ripe. 
 
 The white is smaller than either, with also a taste similar 
 to that of the black. These I have gathered and eaten from 
 the trees along the walks to the Elysian Fields at Hoboken, 
 N. J., about the year 1830. Usually ripe on the 1st of 
 August. 
 
 Nectarines. — This fine-flavored fruit very much resem- 
 bles the peach, except in the smoothness of skin and firm- 
 ness of flesh. But few of them, however, find their way into 
 our markets, and it requires much trouble and care to pro- 
 duce good crops. Among the choice varieties are the early 
 violet, French white, late yellow, etc. They begin to ripen 
 about the 1st of August, and continue good until October. 
 
 Olives. — This foreign fruit is found here in a preserved 
 or pickled state, although they are cultivated at the South, 
 in Louisiana, South Carolina, etc., and said to fully ripen. 
 It is, however, not a very profitable crop. They are used 
 hare principally by foreigners. The oil made from this fruit 
 is the common sweet or olive oil, so much valued in salads, 
 cookery, etc. 
 
 Oranges. — There are several varieties of this most ex- 
 cellent and refreshing fruit. The largest and best are from 
 St. Augustine, and sell at the highest prices. The Havanas 
 are equal in flavor, but have a thick and rough rind, and 
 the pulp of either is very juicy and delicious. The Maltese 
 have also a very thick and spongy skin, and the pulp is quite 
 red, and sometimes without juice. The Sicilian fruit are 
 smaller, with a thin skin and a sour taste, but usually most 
 abundant and cheap. Ripe oranges are a wholesome hand 
 or table fruit, while the green are used for preserves and 
 confectionery. The rind and pulp are also used in cookery, 
 as well as the flowers for perfumery. The West India 
 oranges are found here from October until April, and those 
 from the Mediterranean, in boxes, from January until May, 
 after which periods they lose flavor and become dry and 
 spongy. Another variety, called the Utter orange or Seville, 
 
384 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 is not much used here, the pulp being quite bitter, sour, and 
 sharp, and the rind of a very pungent nature. It is only 
 valued for marmalade, candy, etc. 
 
 Partridge-berries, or nanny -berries. — These 
 
 little black berries grow in clusters, on a tree-like bush, on 
 uncultivated grounds or along hedges. When fully ripe, they 
 have an insipid, dry, sweet taste, and a large pit. They are 
 edible, what there is of them, and birds are very fond of 
 them. Found ripe in September, and continue on the 
 bushes until winter sets in. I have never seen them on 
 sale in our markets, but have eaten quarts while hunting. 
 
 Paw-paW} or custard apple. — This fruit is found 
 plentiful in the Southern and "Western States, and appears 
 somewhat, in form and color, like a small cucumber when 
 ripe. Its pulp is rather too luscious to be agreeable, al- 
 though palatable to some, having a flavor like custard, of 
 a saffron color, and quite full of hard seeds, which look like 
 those from the ivater-melon, but larger. It is said to be best 
 when touched by the frost, and many persons like them best 
 when boiled in the green state. They usually ripen about 
 the middle of September. Judge Law, of Evansville, In- 
 diana, says " that having met at the house of a friend where 
 there was some paw-paw brandy, the distiller remarked that 
 the patv-paiv, which is indigenous to our bottom-lands, 
 yields more spirit to the bushel than any other fruit, and 
 that he has contracted for one thousand bushels to distil 
 the coming season (1859). A bushel of the fruit will yield 
 two gallons of the spirits." They ripen in the month of 
 August. 
 
 Peaches. — This is one of the most tempting and lus- 
 cious fruits in the catalogue, having a great many varieties, 
 although generally known under two principal names — the 
 freestones and clingstones. Among the best variety of the 
 first is the early York, Crawford early, rare-ripes, Morris 
 whites, melocoton, honest John, etc. Of the varieties of 
 clingstones are the lemon cling, orange cling, white heath, 
 Oldmixon late heath, blood cling, etc. Peaches first make 
 
FEUITS. 385 
 
 their appearance from Bermuda about the 25th of April, in 
 small numbers and at high prices ; from the Southern 
 States the latter end of June and first of July, and from 
 lower New Jersey (a few unripe ones) about the 20th of 
 July ; but they do not appear in large quantities, or in a 
 ripe state, save from the 10th to the 20th of August, when 
 they commence to be plenty, and continue so until the 20th 
 of September, when they gradually decrease with the large 
 hard winter peaches until November, after which they are 
 found in the dried state. Their principal use is for dessert, 
 many for preserves in various ways, in brandies, etc. 
 
 We have previously noticed Mr. Aaron R. Jones, who 
 started a new life in the cultivation of fine mush-melons in the 
 year 1818. He afterwards, says the Commercial Advertiser, 
 August 26, 1826, " directed his attention to a new field of 
 industry, having purchased a handsome tract of land in 
 Shrewsbury, N. J. About three years since (1822) he set 
 out a peach orchard of twenty acres, it is understood, which 
 this year (1824) has begun to requite his care and attention. 
 Jones' peaches are the order of the day — and most excellent 
 they are in size and flavor — and are now selling from two 
 to three cents each, and from fifty to seventy-five cents a 
 half a peck." 
 
 Pears. — There are many varieties of this excellent fruit, 
 and but few of the very choice kinds are seldom found plen- 
 tiful in our markets, and those few command high and pay- 
 ing prices to the producers. Among the choice summer 
 pears are the Bartlett, summer Doyenne, Madelaine, sugar 
 pears, Bloodgood, Brandywine, small harvest pear, etc. 
 The autumn pears are the Duchess d'Angouleme, Bartlett, 
 Virgalieu, or white Doyenne, Sheldon, gray Doyenne, Seckel, 
 Buffam, Flemish beauty, Louise Bonne de Jersey, Wash- 
 ington, Bell, etc. Winter pears are the winter Nellis, pound, 
 Columbia, Yicar of Wakefield, Lawrence, Easter Beurre, etc. 
 
 The first pears begin to show themselves in June, and 
 sometimes earlier, but seldom ever good. The best are re- 
 ceived in August, September, and October for the dessert, 
 
 . 25 
 
386 THE MAKKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 of which the Duchess d'Angouleme, Bartlett, and Virgalieu 
 stand first ; the former has been known to have sold at one 
 dollar each, and often from three to six dollars a dozen. 
 Many kinds are used for baking, stewing, preserving, etc., 
 and a drink called Perry is also made of them. Several of 
 the winter varieties will keep well through the winter, and 
 last until April. 
 
 The origin of the Seckel pear is thus noticed by " the 
 venerable Bishop White (in the Philadelphia Gazette, 1835), 
 whose memory is remarkable for its strength and correct- 
 ness." He says " that when he was a boy, about seventy 
 years ago, there was a Ueeder in this city known by the 
 name of Dutch Jacob, who was a great sportsman. At a 
 certain season of the year he was known by his neighbors 
 and others to bring home from his excursions very delicious 
 pears, but he would never tell anybody where he procured 
 them. 
 
 " About that period the London Land Company, which 
 owned some land below the city, made a sale, and Dutch 
 Jacob purchased the lot upon which his pear-tree stood. It 
 afterwards became the property of Mr. Seckel, and now be- 
 longs to the estate of the late Mr. Girarcl. The Seckel 
 pear is now known all over the United States." 
 
 Persimmon or American medlar. — This fruit 
 seems to be a species of the Plum, when ripe, somewhat the 
 color of an Orange ; others, again, are red, and some quite 
 black. The fruit is not fit to eat until it has felt the frost, 
 which somewhat shrivels the skin and makes it tender, lus- 
 cious, and quite sweet, but a little puckerish. In the settle- 
 ment of Virginia, Captain John Smith called this fruit the 
 PutcJiamins, when he says : " We daily feasted with good 
 bread, Virginia pease, pumpions, and Putchamins," and " if it 
 be not ripe, it will draw a man's mouth awry with much tor- 
 ment. If ripe, it is as delicious as an Apricot." The ripe 
 fruit are about as large and much shaped like a Date, and 
 grow on trees, in bunches. Cultivation has much enlarged 
 and otherwise improved the fruit as well as the tree, which 
 
FRUITS. 387 
 
 is ornamental and worthy to be placed in every lawn, the 
 foliage being rich and beautiful, and the bearing trees, when 
 loaded with ripe fruit, present an admirable appearance. 
 
 Persimmons are found in our markets in October, arid if 
 very ripe they appear broken and mashed. They make an 
 excellent syrup and good table-beer ; whiskey is also manu- 
 factured from them. 
 
 Pine .apples. — This excellent-flavored fruit is found in 
 our markets quite plentiful in their season, which com- 
 mences about the 1st of April and lasts until September. 
 They are known here under two general names, or kinds : 
 the birds-eye and the sugar-loaf ; the first is considered best 
 for eating out of hand, the latter for preserving in different 
 ways. They certainly have a delicious flavor, but they usu- 
 ally disappoint the palate, by having so much wood and 
 fibrous substance to swallow along with it. They are 
 brought from Havana, Nassau, Matanzas, etc. Their usual 
 weight is from two to five pounds. 
 
 Pine ivy. — See Wintergreen berries. 
 
 Plantains. — This is an invaluable tropical fruit, and is 
 used by many of the West Indians for bread. It grows in 
 smaller bunches or spikes than the bananas, each one be- 
 ing from eight to twelve inches long and about three in di- 
 ameter, somewhat the form of a cucumber, but pointed at 
 both ends. The flesh is firm, solid, and nutritious, and may 
 be prepared for the table, either in a green or ripe state, 
 for tarts, sweetmeats, and confectionery, and it is also good 
 for roasting, frying, broiling, or even when boiled, with salt 
 meat or fish. It is found in season from February to Sep- 
 tember. 
 
 Plums* — Among the varieties of this fine fruit stands 
 the green gage, which ripens about the middle of August 
 and lasts until October. Then there is the Washington, the 
 Jefferson, white and purple Damsons, the white, red, blue, 
 and frost gage, the purple and yellow egg, magnum bonum, 
 apricot, common blue, or horse plum, etc. They are used 
 for the dessert, preserves, etc., and are generally found in 
 
i 
 388 THE MABKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 our markets from the latter end of July until the middle of 
 October. 
 
 Wild plums. — There are several varieties, and differ- 
 ent sizes, colors, and tastes of this fruit, some of which are 
 red, yellow, and purple color, with tastes of sweet, tartish, 
 and sour, and again some quite hard and almost uneatable. 
 Several varieties of the best kinds have been, introduced into 
 the States of New York, Connecticut, and New Jersey, and 
 successfully grown, producing crops as regular as any other 
 fruit-crop. I have often seen a fine, cherry-looking fruit in 
 our markets, which was called Illinois Cherry, about the 
 size of large red or sour cherries, without the stem. The 
 skin was quite tough, while the flesh appeared tender, with 
 rather a tart taste and a slight touch of bitterness ; the pit, 
 however, was a regular plum pit. I understand they grow 
 wild in some of our neighboring States, but when cultivated 
 they are much improved in size and flavor. They are used 
 and make very good tarts, sweetmeats, etc. In season 
 about the middle of September, and last until November. 
 
 Pomegranates. — This fine-looking fruit is brought here 
 from the Southern States, but not in large quantities, as it 
 is not much thought of. It is about as large as a good- 
 sized apple, having some of the appearance of a smooth 
 apple-gmVice, but with a red cheek, full of seeds and divided 
 into sections. When it becomes ripe there is a soft, juicy, 
 agreeable acid pulp around the seeds : the rind and inside 
 partition is hard, tough, and highly astringent. Ripens gen- 
 erally in September and October. It makes an excellent 
 medicinal syrup, either for fever or inflammations. 
 
 Prickly pear or Indian fig - — This little fruit I 
 have never seen in our markets, but have often gathered and 
 eaten them. The fruit is in the form of a fig, or long little 
 pear, very troublesome to handle, being full of little, yellow, 
 prickly spines, which should be brushed off before handling 
 or gathering, and when ripe they come off readily. Its pulp 
 is subacid and palatable (with the taste of a fig), and of a 
 red and purple color. It is found on .thin, dry soil, on the 
 
FRUITS. 389 
 
 top of rocky surfaces, growing in tufts on a few thick, fleshy 
 leaves. 
 
 Prunes. — This is one of the foreign varieties of the 
 plum, dried or preserved ; a fine, wholesome fruit when fresh. 
 Those from Turkey are generally the best, but there is a 
 great deal of difference in the quality ; if they are heated or 
 sweat on their passage, they become candied, with a whitish 
 appearance, which impairs their quality. The best are put 
 up in glass jars, boxes, and other small packages. Those 
 in baskets or casks are considered not so fine. A free use 
 of them will be found beneficial as a medicine. The fresh 
 arrivals are generally from December to May. 
 
 Quince. — This beautiful fruit is never eaten without 
 being cooked in some fashion or another, when it is much 
 esteemed for its fine flavor. For marmalade, preserves, jel- 
 lies, sauces, stews, syrups, tarts, wine, etc., and also medi- 
 cinally, it is everywhere valued. Among the several varie- 
 ties are the apple-g^mce, pear-gmwce, Portugal, etc. The 
 apple, or orange quince is the most popular, as it is the most 
 tender and excellent-flavored ; the Portugal is quite scarce, 
 but is considered as good as the first, and the pear-gzmiee is 
 usually the most perfect, but quite hard and tough, although 
 the flavor is equal if not superior. Select the smooth large 
 ones, as they are the most tender and perfect, and not so 
 full of waste. The small knotty ones are tough, worm-eaten, 
 and wasteful. This fruit is in season in October, and lasts 
 until December. 
 
 Mrs. B. "Willis, in Orange (N. J.), produced a Quince in 
 1844, which weighed one pound five ounces, and measured 
 fourteen inches, being in a plump and perfect state. 
 
 Raisins. — This foreign-prepared fruit are grapes dried 
 either in the sun or the oven. The Malaga, or muscatel, is 
 the largest and best for the table. The sultana, without 
 seed, the Smyrna, etc., etc., principally used in pies, pud- 
 dings, etc. They are found the best in boxes, also in kegs, 
 etc., sold in the best groceries, fruit-stores, and when plenty 
 are in our markets. They are in season throughout the 
 
390 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 year, but best from December to June, when they are 
 fresh. 
 
 Raspberries* — This is an excellent and- pleasant-fla- 
 vored fruit for the dessert, especially the choice qualities, 
 among which are the red and the yellow, or white, Antwerp, 
 Franconia, FastolfF, etc., which ripen from the 5th to the 
 10th of July— the common red a little earlier. The black 
 cap, or common black Raspberry, is the wild fruit found 
 along the hedges and fences, which have a very rich acid 
 flavor. They ripen later and last about six weeks. Favor- 
 able seasons Raspberries are found in our markets early in 
 June, and often as late as the 10th of August. Many uses 
 are made of this berry — in preserves, jams, ices, tarts, syr- 
 ups, vinegar, wine, etc. 
 
 Shaddock. — This tropical fruit is like a large, coarse 
 orange, with a very little of that fruit's flavor, and a good 
 deal of stringent bitter, especially when any portion of the 
 skin, or parts of the division which separate the fleshy pulp, 
 are eaten. Therefore, for a hand fruit, it is not of much 
 value ; but for preserves, it, no doubt, is good. I am, how- 
 ever, told that when it has fully ripened on the tree, its 
 juices are saccharine and subacid, and those which are heavy 
 and soft are usually found the best. 
 
 Sloes. — This is a species of the ivild plum, but smaller, 
 more solid, and much better when ripe. It is occasionally 
 seen here, and found in abundance in the Western States, 
 where it is used for pies, preserves, etc. In season from 
 September to November. 
 
 Shepardia, or Buffalo berry. — This fruit is of the 
 size and appearance of a large currant, of a red or scarlet 
 color, and grows in clusters, with a rich taste ; used princi- 
 pally for, and makes excellent preserves. 
 
 Strawberries. — There is no kind of fruit more delect- 
 able to the sense of taste than the strawberry ; and there 
 are few more agreeable to the sight when fully ripe, large, 
 and fresh taken from the stem. There are several varieties 
 of this fruit brought usually in great abundance into our 
 
FRUITS. 391 
 
 markets ; those, however, which first appear are found 
 placed in the smallest baskets that the article of wood can 
 very well be formed into, and these generally bring the 
 highest prices. Among the earliest and best varieties are 
 the Early scarlet, Hovey seedlings, McAvoy's superior, 
 Burr's pines, Scotch runners, Black Prince, Boston pines, 
 etc. From the South they appear in small quantities about 
 the 1st of April, and so continue for about one month, daily 
 increasing, so that by the 1st of June New Jersey lays them 
 on our tables in abundance ; and daily after that period the 
 neighboring counties pour them into our (New York) city 
 by thousands and tens of thousands of baskets, boxes, 
 bowls, etc. They, however, begin to fail about the 25th of 
 June, and generally disappear by the 10th of July. The 
 use of this fruit is various, but principally used for the des- 
 sert, ices, syrups, preserved in cans, etc. 
 
 " About tL. r 1800," says Furman in his Notes, " gar- 
 den strawbei v ere first introduced into the New York 
 markets. Belon that there was none except a few wild 
 strawberries which were brought in by women from Tappan 
 and New Jersey. The person who has the honor of having 
 first gratified the New Yorkers with the taste of this most 
 delicious fruit in its cultivated state, was Robert Debevoise, 
 of Brooklyn, who cultivated a strip of land between Samuel 
 Jackson and H. B. Pierpont, Esq. (lying between Fulton- 
 street, the East Biver, and immediately north of Pierpont- 
 street). His price was then two shillings for a pint bowl of 
 them. He refused to sell any of his plants, and thus kept the 
 run of the market alone for about three years, and thereby 
 made a great deal of money. After that he gave old John 
 V. Swartcope, also of Brooklyn, some of the plants, and 
 in a short time he also came in for his share of the profits." 
 
 There were occasionally a few large strawberries produced 
 at an early period, one of which is thus noticed : " A straw- 
 berry raised this season in the garden of Mr. J. Wooston, of 
 Wilmington, Delaware, measured three inches and three-quar- 
 ters in circumference, and weighed one hundred and sixty- 
 
392 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 one grains." {Commercial Advertiser, June 14, 1816.) Of 
 late years we have much improved in the size, but I think 
 not much in flavor. 
 
 Tallow-berries, or ground-berries. — These small 
 red berries are found growing on a small, tender vine resting 
 on the ground, in the cleared woods ; and when eaten, they 
 have a sort of sweetish, tallowy taste, but rather pleasant. 
 Found ripe in November, but seldom in our markets. 
 
 Tamarinds. — This fruit, or rather pod, is found here 
 in a preserved state in our grocery and fruit stores. It is 
 generally used without preparation as an article, of food, 
 and occasionally as a medicine. William M. Singleton, 
 Esq., of Winchester (Va.), has succeeded in raising tamarind- 
 trees which bore fruit, in 1854, of a quality equal to that im- 
 ported. The best are cured with sugar, and are known as 
 the sugar tamarinds. Another kind is also cured with mo- 
 lasses, and known as the common molasses tamarinds, or 
 West India tamarinds. This fruit is in season all the year 
 round, but is best in the months of May and June. 
 
 Thorn-apples, or haws, — These small red fruit are 
 usually found about the size of a cherry, but in form and 
 appearance of miniature apples, quite filled with seeds, which 
 render them almost worthless. Some varieties, however, 
 have some flesh on them, and they can be used in preserves, 
 etc. Found ripe in August and September. 
 
 Vegetable cherry, ground cherry, raspberry 
 tomato, or strawberry tomato. — These small fruit 
 grow on a straggling-looking weed or plant, and are found cov- 
 ered with a bladdery husk. When ripe they are usually of 
 a purplish red, and others again quite yellow, but all have 
 an agreeable acid flavor. Dr. James Knight, chairman of 
 the Horticultural Society, writes to me : " There has been 
 some new varieties introduced and cultivated for the fruit, 
 as some people consider them quite palatable, and call 
 them the raspberry tomato, as they possess somewhat the 
 flavor. Some again call them the straivberry tomato. Among 
 the new varieties a much larger sort has been introduced* 
 
FKUITS. 393 
 
 called vegetable gooseberry, having the taste of a ripe goose- 
 berry." This kind, however, I have not yet seen. I have 
 eaten several kinds, and found some quite sweet and others 
 again of a subacid flavor. Ripen in September about the 
 locality of New York. I kept some of them with the husk 
 on over five months, when they were perfectly dried. 
 
 Whortleberries, huckleberries, or blueber- 
 ries. — There are several varieties of this prolific fruit 
 known, among which those growing on the high bushes are 
 usually preferred. The best variety is called the swamp 
 huckleberry, or blueberry, which yields the largest berry, of a 
 purplish black ; when ripe is subacid, rich, and juicy. An- 
 other variety, called the common, or high-bush berry, is also 
 a rich, fine berry, of a dark-blue color. The common low- 
 bush blueberry or huckleberry, is commonly known among 
 the Jersey pickers or gatherers as the " cracker-berry," as 
 they crack or snap in the mouth on account of their tough 
 skin. They are smooth, quite black, full of seeds, and of a 
 tartish taste. Another better variety of the low-bush, known 
 as the " sugar-berry," being quite sweet, of a bluish coat, 
 or like a coat of flour dusted over them, »and with very small 
 seeds. When found in our markets they are usually mixed 
 up together, and are in season from about the 15th of July 
 to the 20th of September. 
 
 Wild cherries. — These little purplish-black cherries 
 (or drupes) are found on strings like currants, and, when 
 ripe, have rather a pleasant bitterish-sweet taste, which 
 some people are fond of, and are considered wholesome. 
 They are much used for making cordials called cherry 
 bounce, cherry brandy. Cultivation has improved them 
 much, both in taste and size. The bark of the tree is 
 much used for medical purposes, and the wood for making 
 furniture, etc. They are found ripe about the 1st of 
 September. 
 
 Winter grapes, or frost grapes. — These are a 
 small clustering species of the grape, of a pleasant acid 
 flavor when ripe, and also when touched with the frost. 
 
394 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 They grow in clusters, and are thus found on sale in the 
 month of November. 
 
 Winter^reen berries, checker-berries, tea- 
 berraes, pine ivy, etc. — These little red edible berries 
 look much like a miniature crab-apple, and are found grow- 
 ing on a shrub, from four to six inches high, on low sandy 
 soils, usually among the pines. This berry's taste is much 
 like the bark from off the twigs of siveet-birch, with the flavor 
 of tvintergreen. They are used in syrups, confectionery, and 
 pleasant out of hand, and sometimes put in whiskey or 
 spirits, when it is called " tea-berry rum." The leaves make 
 the essence of wintergreen. These berries are sometimes 
 found in our markets in the winter and spring months, as 
 they remain on the bush throughout the winter and early 
 spring months. 
 
 NUTS. 
 
 Almonds. — These excellent nuts are not usually found 
 on sale in our public markets, yet in plentiful seasons they 
 can be purchased in some of them. The choice nuts are 
 usually sold in our fine groceries, fruit-stores, and confec- 
 tioners. The parts eaten are the meat of the dry pit or 
 shell of the sweet almond, some of which are so soft that 
 they are broken by the fingers; these are known as the 
 sultana, but usually called soft or upper-shell, and ladies' thin- 
 shell ; the thick-shell are known as the Jordan or hard-shell. 
 They are now cultivated in the central and Southern States, 
 but our large supplies are brought from the south of Europe. 
 The fresh or new nuts usually arrive in our cities in the first 
 winter months, when they are found very tender, sweet, 
 with much of the " nutty flavor ;" while the old nuts are 
 hard, dry, and with but little of this excellent flavor. 
 
 Beech -nuts, or beech-mast. — These little nuts are 
 occasionally found for sale, but are not sought after, or only 
 when wanted for particular purposes. They are, however, 
 
nuts. 395 
 
 eatable, and even nutritious ; of a triangular form, or shaped 
 somewhat like a buckwheat kernel, but much larger. They 
 are sometimes known as mast, or beech-mast, and serve to 
 fatten hogs, especially in new countries where corn is scarce. 
 Squirrels are particularly fond of them. In some parts of 
 Europe they make oil from them. 
 
 Black walnuts. — These excellent nuts, when ripe, 
 and with the husk off, are very rough, black, and round; 
 found in the markets during October and . November, and 
 will keep for many months. The ripe kernel is large, sweet, 
 and wholesome. The immature fruit, while in the green, 
 tender, outside shell, and before the internal shell becomes 
 hard (which is usually in the months of July and August, 
 according to locations), makes the walnut catsup, or for 
 pickling. The hard wood, which is of a dark purplish 
 color, is much used by the cabinetmakers, and for gun- 
 stocks, etc. 
 
 Brazil nuts. — These nuts, as their name denotes, are a 
 native of South America, and are of a dark brown, being 
 rough-shelled and three-cornered, with a large white kernel, 
 having the flavor of the hazel-nut, and very oily. The sea- 
 son of the new nuts arriving here continues from March 
 until May. 
 
 Butter-nuts* white walnuts, or oil-nuts. — 
 These are a species of the walnut, resembling, when young, 
 the Hack tvalnut, but elongated and smaller. When ripe 
 they are of an oval, oblong form, not quite so large or rough 
 as the black walnut, and are of a different flavor, with an 
 agreeable taste, and rich in oil. "When green and soft 
 they are excellent for pickling. They ripen in the month 
 of September. In the Eastern States these nuts are 
 known as oil-nuts, and in Southern Ohio, etc., as the white 
 walnut. 
 
 Cashew nuts. — This is a native of the Indies, but 
 sometimes found here. The nut or fruit is in size like an 
 apple, some of a white, red, or yellow color, and, like the 
 cherry, tastes sweet and pleasant, but sometimes sharp and 
 
396 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 astringent. The kidney-shaped seed grows on its summit, 
 and, when roasted, is superior to almonds. 
 
 Chestnuts. — I know of but two kinds that are repre- 
 sented here — the common American chestnut, and the large 
 Spanish chestnut Great quantities of the latter are sold 
 roasted in a hot state along some of our public places and 
 streets. The common chestnut is, however, the best flavored, 
 especially when fresh, and is excellent either raw, roasted, 
 or boiled. Their season commences in September and con- 
 tinues good throughout the winter. 
 
 Chinquapin nut, or dwarf chestnut. — This is a 
 small variety of the chestnut, growing on smaller trees, and 
 considered about the same quality. It is seldom seen here, 
 but quite plenty in the markets of Baltimore and Phila- 
 delphia, and is known by some as the dwarf chestnut. 
 
 Cocoa-nut. — This nut is the best flavored of all the 
 foreign kinds. They come principally from Baracoa, Brazil, 
 and other places. The white kernel, although hard, woody, 
 and tough, in its fresh state, is said to be very nutritious, 
 and, when grated, makes excellent puddings, pies, cakes, in 
 candy, etc. It contains a white liquid called milk, which is 
 sweet and nourishing, and they should never be purchased 
 but when this milk is heard to shake within them. The 
 cocoa-nut tree furnishes food, raiment, milk, oil, toddy, cups, 
 bowls, cordage, brushes, mats — in fact, it is difficult to say 
 what it does not furnish the Indian. 
 
 " The Indian nut alone 
 Is clothing, meat and trencher, drink and pan, 
 Boat, cable, sail, and needle — all in one." 
 
 Filberts. — These nuts are said to be an improved variety 
 of the common hazel-nut, but a great deal larger. The best 
 kind is called the red filbert, known by its crimson skin ; an- 
 other kind, called white filbert, with a yellow white skin ; and 
 also another, called the large Spanish filbert. They are 
 found throughout the year ; but the new nuts are received 
 only from November to February. 
 
nuts. 397 
 
 Ground-nuts, chufa, or earth almonds. — This 
 little oval tuber having the name of nut, led me to place it 
 under that head. They are very seldom seen in our mar- 
 kets, no doubt in consequence of its smallness, although 
 they are considered esculent, nutritious, and worthy of cul- 
 ture, when they improve in size, and are ready for use in 
 the fall months. When roasted, their taste is much like a 
 boiled chestnut, being white, mealy, and good-flavored, and, 
 when dried, their taste is somewhat like the almond. In 
 some parts of Europe they are used for making an orgeat, 
 which, with water, makes a milky drink, much used in Spain, 
 and other hot climates where it is known. 
 
 Mr. G. F. Waters, of Waterville, Maine, in a letter noticed 
 in the Tribune, of January, 1860, says : " The plant has been 
 growing in a wet corner of my garden for years. I have 
 obtained tubers two inches in diameter. There are two 
 kinds of this plant indigenous hereabouts. The tuber in one 
 kind is quite round, and has a sweet taste, yellowish meat, 
 etc. The other, which is the most common, tapers towards 
 the ends, one being whiter than the other; meat, white, 
 sweetish, and quite gummy. I have been told by one of our 
 oldest inhabitants, that many people lived upon this ground- 
 nut during the winter of 1817 and 1818, the nuts having 
 been collected in the fall for food. The flower of this plant 
 is quite showy and fragrant — the odor strongly resembles 
 that of orris-root." 
 
 Hazel-nuts, or wild filberts. — These are much the 
 shape, form and color of the filbert, but are smaller, thicker 
 shell, and better flavored. They grow on bushes, alongside 
 the borders of the woods and fences, into a cluster of frizzled 
 husks ; and when they begin to open, or show the end of 
 the nut, they are fit to eat. They usually appear in August 
 and September. 
 
 Hickory-nuts. — There are several varieties of hickory- 
 nuts, which are often found mixed together in our markets ; 
 and it requires some knowledge of them to select the best. 
 The choice nuts are generally known under the name of 
 
398 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 Shell-barks, or shag-barks. — These grow on the 
 shaggy-bodied trees, having a thin shell, a large well-tasted 
 full kernel, of a good size, and ripen in October. They are 
 also flatter made, with eight edges or corners, and easily to 
 be cracked. The next best is called 
 
 JVlocker-nuts, or thick-shelled hickories. — 
 These are usually a larger and rounder nut, but with a very 
 thick shell, while the kernel is small but sweet. There is 
 also a smaller thick-shelled nut, which some call the white- 
 heart hickories, but I think it the same grown in a poorer soil. 
 The wood of this tree is the best kind for firewood. Another 
 variety is called the 
 
 Pig- nut hickories, which are smaller, fig-shaped 
 nuts, having a kernel with a bitterish taste, although I have 
 eaten them when quite sweet. This tree produces the 
 toughest wood of all the other kinds. Then another variety, 
 called 
 
 Bitter-nut, hog-nut, or swamp -hickories, 
 which are the poorest of all the varieties ; in fact, the kernel 
 is so harsh and bitter that even the squirrels will not eat 
 them. All the varieties ripen in October. 
 
 Horse-chestnuts, or buckeyes. — The fruit grows 
 in fleshy, prickly capsules, and ripens in the fall months. 
 These nuts are not edible without some preparation. The 
 Cultivator says : " The bitter green oil is removed by first 
 grating them to a pulp, then adding one fiftieth (1-50) by 
 weight of carbonate of soda. The mixture then is thor- 
 oughly washed and racked by means of a clear fountain, 
 and a white and agreeable paste subsides, which is manu- 
 factured into bread and cakes. In Paris they are manu- 
 factured into starch." 
 
 Madeira, or English walnut. — Great quantities of 
 this foreign fruit are annually imported here, and found in 
 the fine groceries, fruit-stores, and markets. The Grenoble 
 nuts are considered the best, and are in season throughout 
 the year. The nuts begin to arrive here in December, and 
 continue until April, when they are considered best. 
 
nuts. 399 
 
 Peanuts, earth-nuts, pindar-nuts, or ground 
 peas. — This common nut is found for sale in all our prin- 
 cipal cities, and in all seasons of the year. They are brought 
 principally from the Southern States, Africa, etc., in large 
 quantities, and may be found chiefly in fruit stores, and af- 
 ter having been roasted, everywhere, in the markets, on the 
 street corners, apple-stands, basket pedlers, etc. 
 
 The fresh or new nuts arrive here in November (until 
 June), as the first frost kills the vines and ripens the nuts. 
 
 In relation to the culture of this nut, the North Carolina 
 Advertiser informs us that " the annual exportation to the 
 Northern States and Canada considerably exceeds one 
 hundred thousand bushels. A single planter in one of our 
 Eastern States obtained from it a yearly income of six thou- 
 sand dollars. He raised from fifty to seventy-five bushels 
 to the acre, and cultivated five acres to the hand, which at 
 one dollar a bushel, the ordinary price — though one dollar 
 and twenty-five cents was frequently realized — yielded an 
 income of from two hundred and fifty to three hundred 
 dollars to the hand. No such result, under the old system 
 of labor, could be obtained with the staples, on similar soils. 
 Our cotton planters contented themselves with a crop yield- 
 ing from twelve to fifteen dollars per acre, and it was the 
 summing up on a large surface that gave a living result. 
 The cultivation of no crop is so easy, and only the simplest 
 implements are required — first the plow, to break the land, 
 and then simply the sweep and weeding hoes. 
 
 " The average crop, as we have stated, is from fifty to 
 seventy-five bushels to the acre, besides which there will be 
 left in the ground enough to fatten one hundred pounds of 
 pork. The vine, when the pea is removed, makes an excel- 
 lent forage for cattle — said to be equal to the best Northern 
 hay. From the nut is expressed a most valuable oil. Dur- 
 ing the war just closed this oil was universally used in our 
 machine-shops, and its lubricatory properties are pro- 
 nounced, by competent authorities, to be superior to those 
 of whale-oil, for the reason that it does not gum at all. One 
 
 22 
 
400 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 
 of the qualities of oil is extensively employed in the compo- 
 sition of medicine ; another is used for burning purposes, 
 and possesses the virtue of not smoking ; while still a third 
 makes a really excellent salad condiment. Such, and so 
 varied and important are the uses to which this simple pro- 
 duct can be devoted ; uses which the uninformed, who have 
 perhaps regarded it only in the light of an indigestible bulb, 
 would never suspect to proceed from its cultivation." 
 
 Pecan nuts.— These nuts are brought from the South 
 and West, and are taken for a species of the Hickory Nut, 
 known by some as the Illinois Hickory. It is almost an inch 
 long, as large as the end of a common- sized finger, with a 
 smooth shell, and oblong shape. They are of an agreeable 
 taste and wholesome. Brought here principally from the 
 Southern States and Texas, and in season from December 
 until April. 
 
 DAIRY AND HOUSEHOLD PRODUCTS. 
 
 Butter. — This most useful article of the dairy is known 
 so well, that it would be almost impossible to give the least 
 information in relation to it. We, however, find that it was 
 unknown to the ancient Greeks, and the Romans employed 
 it only for anointing or as medicine ; but as an article of 
 food it originated with people of the middle ages, whose 
 generations have continued on with its use to the present 
 day. 
 
 It is always to be found in great abundance in our mar- 
 kets, as well as in the grocery and other stores. It is 
 brought from almost every county in ours, as well as the 
 neighboring States, but the counties of Orange, Chemung, 
 and Cortland (in New York) have the reputation of produc- 
 ing the best qualities and largest quantities ; there are, how- 
 ever, many towns in this and other States, especially in 
 Pennsylvania, which are producing the article in all its ex- 
 
DAIRY AND HOUSEHOLD PRODUCTS. 401 
 
 cellence, especially that which is packed by them for win- 
 ter's use. I think in this, as well as many of the dairy pro- 
 ducts, that the farmers who supply the Philadelphia mar- 
 kets, excel in having their Butter well made, neatly done up 
 in nice clean packages, and — I won't add that it is better- 
 flavored than some of the New York or Boston Butter — but 
 it certainly is more generally good. 
 
 Some of the Western butter is not always to be depended 
 on, as it will be occasionally of all colors, kinds, and flavors, 
 and also in all. kinds of packages. It is used largely in all 
 the delicate operations of cookery, and an almost indispen- 
 sable accompaniment with bread. The best is made in the 
 spring months, it then being of the finest flavor and color ; 
 the next best is made in the fall months ; the next in the 
 summer, and the poorest quality is the white " chimney-cor- 
 ner butter" made in the winter, which is usually found with 
 a bitterish taste, quite mealy-looking, and made up into va- 
 rious sized rolls, of from one to three pounds weight. 
 
 An enormous pyramid of Butter was exhibited in the City 
 of New York, in the year 1838, by Colonel Thomas S. Mea- 
 cham, of Richmond, Oswego County, New York. This large 
 mass of Butter, the press says, "weighed upwards of one 
 thousand two hundred pounds." Another he had forwarded 
 to Washington, weighing over one thousand four hundred 
 pounds, to receive the critical judgment of the representa- 
 tives of the nation. " We hope that he may get as good a 
 price for it as he did on a previous occasion for a like speci- 
 men sent to the capital — fifty cents a pound." One of 
 these large truncated cones of butter, weighing one thousand 
 three hundred and fifty pounds, was on sale at Griffith's, in 
 South-street, one door below Coenties-slip, in New York. 
 The press says that it was afterwards removed to the City 
 Hotel, in Broadway, for exhibition, and afterwards cut up 
 and sold to purchasers. It was tastefully ornamented, and 
 bore the following inscription : " The great Western Pyra- 
 mid of Fine Table Butter — manufactured, erected, and in- 
 scribed in honor of the Civil and Judicial Officers, Editors, 
 
 26 
 
402 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 Merchants, Mechanics, and enterprising Citizens of the 
 great and flourishing City of New York." 
 
 Cheese*. — This well-known substance is found in abun- 
 dance in our markets, provision, and grocery stores, and 
 seen of several varieties, sizes, forms, colors, and flavors. 
 The best is made from what is termed the creamed or ivhole 
 milk, then from the half-creamed, and then from the skim- 
 milk, which produces at least three qualities of Cheese. 
 Some of the choicest comes from Herkimer and Jefferson 
 counties, in this State, and the much admired "English 
 dairy cheese." Connecticut claims to produce the largest 
 quantity as well as the best quality. In choosing Cheese, we 
 must first find that which will please our taste, at the same 
 time it should be compact and of a buttery texture, free 
 from holes within, with a smooth, firm rind, sufficient salt 
 for a pleasant relish and to preserve it untainted. Their 
 usual weight varies from ten up to seventy pounds, although 
 some dairies produce them above one hundred pounds, and 
 some, again, above one thousand pounds. The " Great 
 Cheese," presented to President Jefferson (January 1, 1802), 
 by several farmers of Cheshire, Massachusetts, weighed one 
 thousand two hundred and thirty-five pounds. In the year 
 1835 several very large Cheeses were made by Colonel Mea- 
 cham (previously noticed), who then kept one hundred and 
 fifty-four cows, and made that season three hundred cheeses, 
 weighing one hundred and twenty-five pounds each. He 
 also made one for President Jackson, weighing one thou- 
 sand four hundred pounds ; and nine others whose aggregate 
 was eight thousand one hundred and fifty pounds. In re- 
 lation to the disposition of some of these " mammoth cheeses," 
 the Commercial Advertiser (December 8, 1835) says : " One 
 of these large Cheeses was purchased by the St. Nicholas So- 
 ciety, and served up at their anniversary dinner, at the City 
 Hotel, yesterday. It attracted great attention, and the 
 quality of the article was pronounced excellent. 
 
 " Col. Meacham removed the cheeses yesterday from Ma- 
 . sonic Hall (where they had been on exhibition) to the store 
 
DAIRY AND HOUSEHOLD PRODUCTS 403 
 
 of Messrs. S. & W. Hotaling, No. 29, west side of Coenties 
 Slip, where they will remain a few days. It has already 
 been mentioned in the public papers that one of these noble 
 cheeses was intended as a present to Daniel "Webster. Col. 
 M. this morning called upon Mr. Webster, and requested 
 him to walk over to Coenties Slip and examine these speci- 
 mens of the product of his dairy — a request, we need not 
 add, which was readily complied with. 
 
 " The Eastern senator was highly gratified with the view 
 of these extraordinary articles, the taste with which they 
 have been prepared and preserved, and the apparent excel- 
 lence of their quality. He seemed to be perfectly at home 
 upon the subject, and entered into the spirit of agricultural 
 pursuits with a familiarity of conversation which proved 
 that he had not forgotten the knowledge he had obtained 
 when himself a youthful farmer, guiding the plough with 
 an arm as vigorous as the intellect which he is now conse- 
 crating to the service of his country in the high councils of 
 state. 
 
 " In the course of the interview Col. Meacham said to 
 Mr. Webster that his occupation was that of a farmer, in 
 the county of Oswego, and that he had a dairy of one hun- 
 dred and fifty-four cows ; that with a view of giving an im- 
 pulse to this particular branch of husbandry, he had made 
 these cheeses during the last season. His intention was, to 
 present one of them to the President of the United States, 
 another to the Yice-President, and a third to the Governor 
 of the State of New York, and a fourth to some other dis- 
 tinguished citizen. His fellow-citizens of the County of 
 Oswego had manifested a lively interest upon the subject ; 
 and it was no less in accordance with their feelings (and, 
 indeed, with their particular desire) than with his own, that 
 this distinguished citizen should be the gentleman whom he 
 had now the honor to address, but whom he had not 
 anticipated the pleasure of meeting in this city. With this 
 view one of the cheeses had been inscribed to him (Mr, 
 
404 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 
 Webster) before it came from his own farm, and of this he 
 now begged his acceptance. 
 
 " Mr. Webster replied, in substance, that he appreciated 
 the compliment very highly, and accepted it with much 
 gratification. These cheeses, he remarked, were the finest 
 specimens of an American dairy that he had ever seen. 
 Not only were they highly creditable to the enterprise and 
 public spirit which had prompted their manufacture, but 
 they bore direct testimony to the character and prosperity 
 of the district of country in which they had been produced. 
 He begged Col. Meacham to accept of his thanks for the 
 very handsome present, and to convey his kind regards 
 to those of his fellow-citizens of Oswego who had united 
 with him, in feeling at least, in the bestowment of this 
 mark of their favor toward so humble an individual as 
 himself." 
 
 In the year 1849, at the Fair of the American Institute, 
 a mammoth cheese was exhibited which was said to weigh 
 one thousand seven hundred and fifty pounds ! without 
 doubt the largest ever made. It came from Austin, Ash- 
 tabula County, Ohio. 
 
 Pineapple cheese. — These pineapple-shaped cheese 
 are formed by being pressed in a net the form found, and 
 the rind is toughened with the assistance of hot water, 
 which assists in keeping them a long time. Their usual 
 weight is from six to twelve pounds. 
 
 Cream cheese. — Another article made from milk, and 
 is sometimes found in our markets, but more particularly in 
 those of Philadelphia. It is made from rich sour cream tied 
 up in linen cloth to drain, then laid on a deep dish, still 
 covered around, and turned every day, and sprinkled with 
 salt for ten days or a fortnight, until it is ripe. If wanted 
 to ripen quick, cover it with mint or nettle leaves. This, 
 however, is only one way. There is another article much 
 used called 
 
 Smearkase 9 a German name for churds. It is made 
 into pies, cakes, spread on bread, and also eaten with pep- 
 
DAIRY AND HOUSEHOLD PEODUCTS. 405 
 
 per and salt. I ate some in Philadelphia made into a cake, 
 which I found was very good. 
 
 Egg's. — -'With all the nations of the earth eggs more par- 
 ticularly have been a favorite and wholesome food. Here 
 they may be considered as being in season the year round, 
 although in the spring months they are more plentiful and 
 cheap ; the winter months, however, they are found usually 
 quite scarce and high, and, of course, but few families can 
 afford to use them, or only in mixed preparations. In cer- 
 tain seasons they come by thousands, in fact I may truly 
 say thousands of barrels, containing almost a thousand 
 in each, from Ohio, Indiana, Michigan, Illinois, etc. They 
 come nicely packed with clean oats, etc., in good flour-bar- 
 rels, when they arrive here in good condition, with no loss 
 on the oats, as they are a ready sale. 
 
 Among the various kinds of eggs there appears to be two 
 qualities, viz., the fresh-laid eggs and the preserved eggs. 
 The latter are preserved by the use of lime-water, salt, 
 scalding, etc., which appears to destroy the vital principle, 
 when "they are not considered so valuable in their general 
 uses as the first, or fresh-laid eggs. The fresh, or newly -laid 
 eggs appear semi-transparent when placed between the eye 
 and a strong light. The large end placed against the 
 tongue will also feel warm. If it shakes it is apt to be 
 stale or quite bad ; in fact, a good fresh egg when placed 
 in water sinks quickly, but if stale, they either float or sink 
 slowly. 
 
 Some imagine that because eggs are different shades of 
 color, size, and looks, they cannot be all fresh alike. "To 
 every hen belongs an individual peculiarity in the form, 
 color, and size of the egg she lays, and it never changes 
 so long as she remains healthy. Some hens lay smooth, 
 cream-colored eggs, others rough, chalky, granulated ones ; 
 then there is the buff, the snow-white, the spherical, the 
 oval, the pear-shaped, and the emphatically egg-shaped 
 
 tgg" 
 
 I>uck eggs are of a bluish cast, a little larger than the 
 
406 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 common fowl's, and the flavor not so delicate ; only found in 
 the spring of the year, and then occasionally. 
 
 Goose eggs are much larger, whiter, and usually less 
 esteemed. They are scarcely ever seen more than a few 
 lots in the spring. 
 
 Guinea lien's eggs. — These are very small, speckled, 
 and considered one of the best flavored ; generally found 
 among the common fowls' eggs. 
 
 Turkeys' and pea-fowls' eggs are seldom or ever 
 found in our markets. All of the above are usually mixed 
 with the common fowls' when brought to us direct by the 
 neighboring farmers or market-men. 
 
 Egg-powder. — The eggs are solidified, or condensed 
 into a dried powder. The white and yolk are reduced by 
 evaporation, then packed in tins, which can be kept any 
 length of time. This egg-poioder can be used as the fresh 
 eggs for many purposes in cookery. 
 
 How to preserve eggs. — Pour a gallon of water 
 upon a pound of quick-lime in a jar. Let it remain about 
 twenty-four hours to cool after its effervescence ; procure 
 eggs as fresh as you can, and drop them into the jar gently ; 
 place the jar where you can take out the eggs ivithout 
 disturbing it, so the eggs will keep good for a twelvemonth. 
 (Trans. Am. Inst., 1855.) 
 
 Honey (in the comb). — This delicious and nutritive mat- 
 ter is found in our markets, sometimes in great plenty, in 
 the summer and fall months. It is estimated according to 
 the nature of the flower from which it is extracted. The 
 best is found in small boxes (showing one or two sides 
 with glass), the comb well filled with white and handsome 
 honey, which is supposed to be made principally from the 
 white clover ; the buckwheat (flower) honey is darker, but 
 very sweet. Large hives of honey are also found, but it is 
 generally inferior to the above. 
 
 Honey (strained), or Southern honey. — I believe 
 this kind of honey is now seldom found in our markets, or 
 in fact much sought after. Years ago it was very plenti- 
 
DAIEY AND HOUSEHOLD PKODUCTS. 407 
 
 ful and cheap, but seldom found as pure as nature made 
 it, which, no doubt, is one cause of its being so little used. 
 
 Beeswax. — In the fall months beeswax is found quite 
 plenty, in cakes, brought in by the dealers in Southern 
 and Western honey. There is much sold that is impure, not 
 worth half the price of pure. 
 
 Maple-sugar. — This product of the forest is found in 
 its season in large quantities for sale in our markets. It 
 begins to make its appearance about the 1st of March, and 
 found quite plenty in April, May, and June. It is often 
 found in small cakes from a quarter to half a pound each, 
 and also in square bars. Some of it is very white, nice- 
 looking, and not very sweet, having been through a bleach- 
 ing process, which not only takes out the sweetness, but a 
 share of the maple flavor ; and, again, it is found mixed 
 with common sugar. 
 
 Maple synrp and molasses is also made in large 
 quantities, but usually sold in large groceries, etc. 
 
 A very large production of Maple Sugar from one tree is 
 found noticed in the Commercial Advertiser, June 13th, 1808, 
 as follows : "Mr. Luke Baker, of Princeton, in the County 
 of Worcester (Massachusetts), during the past season, in- 
 serted twenty taps into one maple-tree on his farm, by means 
 of which he drew twenty-three gallons and three quarts of 
 sap in one day, which being boiled into Sugar made seven 
 pounds and a quarter ; and the whole quantity of Sugar 
 made from the same tree this season is thirty-three pounds, 
 which must have required, according to the above propor- 
 tions, upwards of one hundred and eight gallons of sap. 
 The above facts are given under Mr. Baker's own hand." 
 
 Another article 'in the same paper (January 24, 1814), 
 shows the profit and its advantages in its making at that 
 period. " The high price of foreign sugars will render the 
 manufacture of Maple Sugar the ensuing season an object 
 of very great profit to the manufacturer, and of great im- 
 portance to the country, particularly the interior. With the 
 view of exciting early attention to the subject, we annex 
 
408 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT 
 
 some data, derived from a person of experience in the busi- 
 ness. He states that his sugar-works, consisting of three 
 hundred and sixty trees, yielded him last season one ton of 
 sugar, and sixty gallons of molasses ; and that the whole la- 
 bor was performed by one man and a boy, with a yoke of 
 oxen and a sled. Calculating troughs and buckets to last 
 eight years, and to cost twenty-five cents each, the expendi- 
 tures and receipts would stand nearly thus : 
 
 "Expenses. "Wages of one man six Weeks, $30. Do. of one 
 boy the same, $20. Twelve and one-half per cent, of the 
 cost of buckets, $10. Miscellaneous expenses, $25.86. 
 Total expense, $85.86. 
 
 "Receipts. 2,000 pounds sugar at $20 per cwt., $400. 60 
 gallons molasses at $1.50 per gallon, $90 — makes $490. De- 
 duct expenses — $85.86 — leaves clear profit, $404.14." 
 
 Sorgum syrup is another sweet article lately intro- 
 duced in our markets, made from a species of cane, some- 
 what like that of Broom Corn. It is very pleasant-tasted, 
 and will readily take the place of the common syrup, or mo- 
 lasses, in the principal uses where the latter is employed. 
 Its sweetening strength is said to be much greater, as a less 
 quantity is required, and with buckwheat and other griddle 
 cakes it is excellent. 
 
 Homimy. — There appears but two kinds of this excel- 
 lent and healthy food prepared for sale, which are usually 
 known as the small and great hominy ; either of which are 
 seldom or ever prepared or cooked ready for sale in the 
 Boston or New York markets ; but in the public markets of 
 Philadelphia, Baltimore, and Washington it is sold in large 
 quantities, not only to the poorer classes, but to all. There 
 the people come as much prepared to purchase it and bring 
 it in their kettles, or dishes, as they do their Butter. Many 
 families, no doubt, in either New York, Boston, or elsewhere, 
 who have not the convenience, knowledge, or the time to 
 cook it (and it requires a considerable time to do it proper- 
 ly), would purchase it as quickly as they would Sausages, 
 Head-cheese, or even Butter itself. However, in point of 
 
DAIRY AND HOUSEHOLD PRODUCTS* 409 
 
 economy for human food, it is said that one Bushel of Hom- 
 iny is equal to Eight Bushels of Potatoes. The " Plough" 
 says, to prepare it : " Wash slightly in cold water and soak 
 twelve hours in tepid soft water ; then boil slowly from three 
 to six hours in the same water, with plenty more added 
 from time to time, with great care to prevent burning. 
 Don't salt while cooking, as that or hard water will harden 
 the corn. When done, add butter and salt ; or the better 
 way is to let every one season to suit his taste. It is good 
 hot or cold, and better when warmed over." 
 
 Since writing the above, I have found another kind, called 
 lyed liominy, which is differently although easily pre- 
 pared. That is, boil the white field corn in ashes and water 
 until the husk or skin of the grain is loosened, which takes 
 place in a few minutes ; care, however, must be taken that 
 it does not remain too long in the ashes, or it will taste of 
 the lye. So soon as the husk is loosened, it must be washed 
 and rubbed through the hands in cold water, until the grain 
 is cleansed from the ashes and husk or bran. When wanted 
 to be cooked for the table, it must be scalded and then put 
 to boil in plenty of water, having plenty of hot water to add 
 to it as the first boils down. The grain will burst into a 
 white ball, and become soft when sufficiently done, when 
 it is ready to be eaten, either warm or cold, with milk, 
 cream, etc. 
 
 Captain N. Uring informs us how hominy was made in 
 Virginia one hundred and forty years ago (1726). He says : 
 " They put such a quantity of corn in steep (soak) as they 
 design to boil the next day ; and then take a small quantity 
 at a time, and beat it in a wooden mortar, which is made by 
 hollowing a piece of tree, and. with a pestle, beat the corn 
 till it is broken into small pieces, and the husk separated 
 from the grain, which is facilitated by its being soaked in 
 water all night ; when they have beaten the quantity they 
 design, they winnow the husk from the grain, and put it 
 into a pot with some few kidney-beans, and a sufficient 
 quantity of water, with a piece of beef or pork, and boil it, 
 
410 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 and it is excellent, hearty food, very wholesome and well- 
 tasted, and is what most of the poorer sort of people in that 
 country live upon." 
 
 Apple -butter is another domestic article which may 
 be properly called a sauce, being made of sweet cider, and 
 apples, and is occasionally found in our markets. Large 
 quantities are manufactured in some of the States, more 
 especially in Pennsylvania, where its use is almost univer- 
 sal, being considered one of the necessaries of the table. In 
 its preparation, " the cider is boiled in large kettles, holding 
 from thirty to forty gallons, into which apples, properly 
 pared and quartered, are thrown — say two bushels of pre- 
 pared apples to twenty-five gallons of cider. After six to 
 eight hours' boiling, during which the liquor is constantly 
 stirred, it begins to thicken, and, when reduced to a toler- 
 able paste, and about the color of chocolate, it is taken from 
 the fire, deposited in earthen jars, and, after standing a few 
 weeks, is of good flavor for use." 
 
 Apple-sauce is another similar-made article, except 
 the mashing of the apple. Both of the above are made in 
 large quantities by the Shakers, who put it up in neat and 
 proper packages, when it is readily sold. 
 
 Saur-kraut, or sour-krout. — This article is found 
 quite plentiful in our markets, usually prepared by the 
 Germans. To make it, take as many hard, firm cabbages 
 as you wish to preserve, tear off the loose leaves, then quar- 
 ter them, cut out the hearts or stalks, and chop, with a 
 machine or hand, the quarters into small pieces. Then, to 
 every one hundred pounds of cabbage, take three pounds of 
 salt, a quarter of a pound of caraway-seed, and two ounces 
 of juniper-berries ; mix them all together. Procure sweet, 
 clean, iron-hooped casks, lay the chopped cabbage three 
 inches deep, then sprinkle each layer, as it is pressed in, 
 with the mixture of salt, caraway- seed, and juniper-berries. 
 After each is full, it must be covered with a linen cloth, and 
 wooden head, then pressed down with heavy weights, and 
 allowed to ferment for a month. The cabbage produces a 
 
DAIRY AND HOUSEHOLD PRODUCTS. 411 
 
 great deal of w^ter, which must be poured off, and its place 
 supplied with a mixture of warm water, whole black-pepper, 
 and common salt ; keeping the cabbage always well covered 
 with brine, and have the casks placed in a cool situation as 
 soon as a sour smell is perceived. 
 
 Feathers- — There are two kinds of feathers found on 
 birds. The strong and hard kinds found in the wings and 
 tails, especially from geese and swans are called quills, which 
 are used principally for pens ; those from other large species 
 are sometimes used in making toys, etc. The soft feathers 
 which cover the bodies of poultry, and most all kinds of 
 birds, as a protection and ornament, are principally used 
 for beds. The best feathers are white and downy, and espe- 
 cially those picked from live geese, etc. This operation takes 
 place about three times in a season, or when their feathers 
 begin to fall, which appears about the 1st of April, then 
 again the middle of June, and again the 1st of September. 
 The feathers from birds which were dead when picked are 
 not so much valued, in consequence of the blood being left 
 in the ends, which causes them to smell bad and pack more 
 closely. 
 
 Cat-tails, or meadow-flag. — The fur or hair of the 
 fruit of this meadow-plant is picked off, when ripe, for sev- 
 eral uses, but principally for beds. The broad leaves or 
 flags are much used for chairs and by the coopers, to put 
 between the staves to tighten casks. They are sometimes 
 found here for sale ready prepared for use. 
 
 Bulrush, or rushes. — I have occasionally seen 
 bunches of these harsh, grating stalks, or rather a sort of 
 green, rough spikes, sheathed into one another, for sale ; 
 but for what use here I do not know. In the country they 
 are sometimes used to scrub with. There is, however, a 
 softer kind, which is much used for chair-bottoms, mats, 
 coarse basket-work, etc. 
 
 Broom-corn. — This species of the Indian Corn is grown 
 principally for making the common whisk-brooms. There 
 appears but two kinds, and both have friends ; these are 
 
412 THE MAKEET ASSISTANT. 
 
 the tall and dwarf. The seeds are used more for replanting, 
 but are frequently sold for feed, and, by some, considered 
 nearly as good as oats. Many years ago whisk-brooms were 
 made by some farmers, who brought and sold them in the 
 markets. They were rather clumsy-looking, but excellent 
 wearing brooms ; the handles, more especially, if not hand- 
 somely turned, claimed smoothness and great strength. A 
 " broomstick," then, laid across the shoulders or head by 
 the angry housewife, was generally a settler. 
 
 It is recorded in the Washington Sun (1837), that broom- 
 corn, now cultivated to so profitable an extent in this coun- 
 try, owes its cultivation to Dr. Franklin's acute mind. A 
 lady of Philadelphia held an imported clothes whisk in her 
 hand, and, while examining it as a novelty, he found a 
 single grain still attached to the stalk ; this he planted, and 
 a large, increasing article of usefulness has been thus per- 
 petuated in the United States. 
 
 Christmas greens. — A few days before Christmas, a 
 great many wagons, etc., are brought to the markets loaded 
 with the tops, limbs, and young evergreen trees of spruce, 
 pines, firs, cedars for " Christmas-trees ;" also the running 
 ground-vines, or running pines, etc., tied up in bunches, 
 ropes, stars, hoops, figures, etc., ornamented with little red 
 winter-berries, painted paper-flowers, etc., to ornament 
 various public and private houses on Ghristmas day. The 
 streets about some of our public markets are sometimes 
 piled up along the gutters, or on wagons, from square to 
 square ; besides, hundreds of loads are brought in and de- 
 livered directly to the purchasers. 
 
 Birch brooms * — Large numbers of these coarse brooms, 
 made principally of birch twigs, or shoots, by many of the 
 farm laborers, when there is nothing else to do in the winter 
 months, are sold at, or peddled about, the markets. Many 
 are used by the butchers, street-sweepers, etc. 
 
 Baskets. — Many years ago baskets of all sorts, sizes, 
 and kinds, among which were the bushel (full measure), the 
 round handle, the flat and the square baskets, were sold in 
 
DAIRY AND HOUSEHOLD PRODUCTS. 413 
 
 our markets, usually in the spring of the year, by our thrifty 
 farmers, being the productions of their winter's labor ; and 
 if they were not so handsomely turned, they were strongly 
 made, " not for a day," but until you were satisfied that your 
 money was not laid out in trash. These remarks will lead 
 me to notice the 
 
 Bushel baskets.— Large quantities of apples, pears, 
 peaches, potatoes, etc., are sold by the basket, and often 
 represented as a bushel basket. This bushel basket is a mere 
 figure of speech, which signifies that if filled with peaches, 
 pears, or plums, they will actually measure about half a 
 bushel — if apples or potatoes, about three pecks, or five bas- 
 kets out of three. If the fair-dealing producer should ask 
 a reasonable price for an honest bushel basket of apples, say 
 one dollar, and another dealer close by, with a bushel basket 
 of three pecks, asks eighty-seven and a half cents, the latter 
 will sell his produce much sooner than the other, because 
 the price for his bushel basket of three pecks is lower, when, in 
 reality, the honest bushel basket is the cheapest. 
 
 The only reason that I can give for this is, that many who 
 go to market imagine that every basket represented as a 
 bushel basket should contain a bushel measure, and that no 
 one would dare to sell short measure in such a basket, and 
 in such a public place ; therefore, for the protection of both 
 the purchaser and the honest dealer, a law should be so 
 framed and put in force, as to either compel the restoration 
 of ihefuU bushel basket, or else have every basket marked ac- 
 cording to its true capacity. 
 
 There are also a great many barrels of articles which 
 come to our markets, like the bushel baskets, are frauds on 
 the purchasers, and in defiance of the law which regulates 
 the size of apple, pear, and potato barrels ; the uniform size 
 of which is fixed at that of a flour barrel, and none smaller 
 than that can be used, on penalty of the loss of whatever 
 the barrel may contain, besides a fine as an additional pun- 
 ishment for swindling. 
 
 This also calls my attention to a truthful statement 
 
414 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 found in that excellent paper, the American Agriculturist, 
 headed — 
 
 " Farmers' Tricks of Trade.— The following from a cor- 
 respondent needs no comment : ' Of two Long Island farm- 
 ers, one warmly contended that custom sanctioned putting 
 the largest and finest potatoes, apples, pears, peaches, etc., 
 on top of the basket or barrel, for if this is not done, they 
 bring lower prices. The other, who was more conscien- 
 tious, said he could not do it, notwithstanding custom sanc- 
 tioned it, and he was aware that he got less for his fruit 
 and vegetables than his neighbor did. As a buyer for 
 family use, I listened attentively, and regretted to find that 
 the majority of buyers, or market-men, at least, are thus 
 paid a premium for what I should term deception, if not 
 dishonesty. For a long time I have observed this tendency 
 to make the finest show upon the outside ; and when I wish 
 to buy a basket of apples or peaches, I have to ask the 
 dealer to pour them out, to see how the bottom compares 
 with the top. What says the Agriculturist to so glaring an 
 evil? Shall we not rather encourage uprightness in all 
 our dealings, than countenance deception in any way ? I 
 know of parties who have bought what they supposed to be 
 fine baskets of fruit, judging from the outside appearance, 
 and finding them so very inferior generally, they have re- 
 solved never to deal with such sellers again. As it now is, 
 a person is certainly liable to be deceived, unless he over- 
 hauls every package of fruit or vegetables coming to mar- 
 ket. As far as one purchaser is concerned, I am resolved 
 to purchase of such persons as the conscientious dealer re- 
 ferred to, when I can thus encourage honesty rather than 
 duplicity.' " 
 
 "What usually makes a bushel :— " Sixty pounds of wheat, 
 Irish potatoes, beans, or clover-seed ; fifty-six pounds of shelled 
 com, rye, or barley ; forty-five pounds of timothy, flax, or 
 Jwmp seed; seventy pounds of corn on the cob; thirty-six 
 pounds of oats ; fifty-two pounds of buckwheat ; fifty-seven 
 pounds of sweet patatoes ; forty-seven pounds of onions; 
 
I 
 
 DAIBY AND HOUSEHOLD PEODUCTS. - 415 
 
 thirty-three pounds of dried peaches ; twenty pounds of 
 bran, etc. 
 
 I will also add here a few remarks on the articles usually 
 sold by weight, that come in kegs, boxes, or other packages, 
 which, to those who don't know, will be information, under 
 the head of 
 
 Crross, tare, and net weights. — In buying large 
 quantities of butter, lard, honey, etc., in the packages in 
 which they are brought in, either barrels, boxes, firkins, 
 tubs, etc., if the whole package is weighed it is called the 
 gross weight. The tare is the weight of the empty barrel, 
 box, etc., which should be weighed before the article is put 
 in, and marked distinctly on the package, directly under the 
 gross weight. The tare is deducted from the gross, which 
 leaves the net weight of the article to be paid for, and the 
 package as agreed upon. 
 
 Pot-plants, roots, and bouquets, in the spring 
 and early summer months, are found on some of the stands, 
 which are usually located on the outside of the public mar- 
 kets, where light and air are advantageous to the life and 
 growth of the numerous varieties of plants and roots, com- 
 monly wanted at this period of the year. Here are found the 
 delicate hot-house and open-air plants, usually ornamented 
 with many beautiful and varied-colored flowers, while young 
 fruit-trees, bushes, and shrubs are looking their greenest 
 and prettiest close by ; then behind these are seen the 
 rusty-looking grape-vines and other roots which partially 
 lie covered and cared for, so that at least there is life 
 enough left to successfully transplant each one to a more 
 generous home. Most of the flowering plants are usually 
 found in bloom, having been forced into that state by the 
 florists, as they are found to be most salable, or rather 
 that they more readily take the fancy of the general pur- 
 chaser. So numerous are the varieties found, that to give 
 a proper description of each of them would require so 
 many pages — already fully described in other works — that 
 to attempt a description here would perhaps deter those in 
 
416 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 want from at least a visit to the various stands, where these 
 natural and cultivated beauties of the floral life are sold. 
 
 Among these are many rare and choice plants, besides 
 elegant bouquets, some of which are quite elaborately pre- 
 pared for those w r hose purse corresponds with their tastes, 
 while thousands are found merely formed of a few of the 
 common or wild flowers of the season. Their sale is not 
 confined to the outside stands altogether, but also to many 
 hucksters and others, who have them in various months of 
 the year ; all, however, are usually sold at reasonable rates, 
 by which a large business has grown up in this department 
 of the public markets products. 
 
 ECONOMY IN THE USE OF MEATS: 
 
 AND 
 HUNG MEATS. 
 
 Economy in cooking should be studied and practised by 
 all, as many a wholesome dish or dinner can be prepared 
 for a very small sum, especially butcher's meat, the principal 
 part of which is sold and used in a. fresh state. 
 
 There are many parts of an animal which are sold many 
 cents per pound cheaper than some which are called choice 
 cuts or pieces ; at least three parts of the animal is of this 
 former class of meat, which will not generally bring the first 
 cost per pound that the whole animal cost, and this is one 
 reason why the other quarter part brings the higher charged 
 prices. This large portion of the animal comprises the 
 chuck-ribs, rounds, cross-ribs, tops-of-sirloins, plates, navels, 
 briskets, flanks, neck-pieces, leg-pieces, legs and shins of 
 beef, shoulders of mutton or veal, liver, haslets, hearts, 
 sheep-heads, etc., all good for various dishes, either a roast- 
 in-the-pot (a country cooked dish), stewing, boiling, bouilli, 
 soups, and some are even good for a plain roast or a good 
 steak, etc. 
 
ECONOMY IN THE USE OF MEATS: AND HUNG- MEATS. 41? 
 
 The English make excellent dishes of cow-heels, sheeps- 
 trotters, melts, lights, etc., while the Germans of the entrails 
 of calves make into a dish which I found to be excellent 
 eating ; and we find that each nation,. as well as family, has 
 its peculiar manner of cooking nearly every joint of meat as 
 of other articles of food. 
 
 There are many people of limited means who "do mar- 
 keting," seem to have no desire or wish to practise economy, 
 but rather to appear extravagant, if it lies in their power, 
 by purchasing every thing at the highest prices, more es- 
 pecially where credit is given ; others do this rather to live 
 on the labor of other people than rely on their own. Some 
 there are who have a large family, for instance, want a roast 
 of about twelve pounds weight, of either beef, veal, or mut- 
 ton, who think nothing else will do but a choice rib or sir- 
 loin, or a fillet or loin of veal, or leg or saddle of mutton, 
 will answer, which, at a cost of eighteen and three-quarter 
 cents per pound, amounts to two dollars and thirty-five cents, 
 when a cross-rib, or chuck-rib, or shoulder of veal, or fore 
 quarter of mutton, of the same weight, would cost about 
 one dollar or one dollar and twenty-five cents ; then the lat- 
 ter, if prepared by a plain country cook, would make either 
 joint quite as tender, juicy, as well relished, and in reality 
 more eatable than that which costs nearly or quite half as 
 much more, when prepared by many of our modern cooks. 
 
 Again, there are some who, if they had but twenty-five 
 cents in the whole world to lay out in meat, they would se- 
 lect a " pound of the best porter-house steak," or a " pound 
 of veal cutlets" — not a taste hardly for two persons, but it 
 must do for six — when, if laid out for a three or four pound 
 piece for bouilli, or soup, or a common stew, would be a 
 bountiful supply of food for all. Yes, twenty cents worth of 
 meat and ten cents worth of beans or peas, or some other 
 good, low-priced vegetables, would make a much more 
 wholesome, nutritious, and economical meal than would a 
 four-pound sirloin steak make alone, at a cost of seventy- 
 five cents or a dollar. I have often observed that those who 
 
418 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 plead against the dearness and extravagant prices of meat, 
 and who I have offered a six or seven pounds beefs heart, 
 which would make them two good nutritious meals, refuse to 
 take it at a cost of fifteen cents only ; they would rather pay 
 their last dollar for half as much meat in an expensive steak 
 or chop. This is one of the chief causes why the few prime 
 parts are so high-priced. 
 
 Sometimes, however, we find persons who were brought 
 up in the country among our thrifty farmers, fail not to re- 
 member the precepts the good housekeeper, their mother, 
 who had taught them the great domestic accomplishment of 
 producing an economical dinner from an ordinary part of 
 any joint of meat. I am also sorry, as I am free to say, 
 that this one accomplishment, so necessary to every woman 
 housekeeper, and so useful to the economy of every-day life, 
 is not taught now-a-days ; it is not even hinted at in any of 
 our schools or seminaries. 
 
 filing meats. — Meats should be hung long enough to 
 grow tender ; if too long it becomes dry, loses its juices, fla- 
 vor and weight, and if not hung long enough it is found 
 tough and hard. It should also be hung where the air is 
 clear and cool, but not in a strong current, as then it will 
 dry out its juices. It is said that if you steam a tough piece 
 of meat for a half an hour, then roast it in the ordinary man- 
 ner, it will be tender. I have no doubt but this process will 
 assist it, but I think at the expense of a loss of much of its 
 sweetness. The loss in cooking meats — when roasted is 
 about one third, and in boiling about one quarter. 
 
 BLEEDING ANIMALS. 
 
 The practice of bleeding cattle, calves, sheep, and lambs 
 before slaughtering them, is almost done away with in the 
 city of New York ; there are, however, a few who still con- 
 tinue it. 
 
 The public generally begin to understand which is the 
 
BLEEDING ANIMALS. 419 
 
 best meat — that from the animal which has been bled two or 
 three times, until all the sweet juices have been extracted, or 
 that from animals which have not been bled, having all the 
 natural excellent juices remaining. 
 
 I think it must convince every thinking person that by 
 taking (two or three days before the animal is killed) from 
 thirty to fifty quarts of blood from a steer or an ox, such 
 practice, by drawing the life of the flesh, which is blood, will 
 reduce and weaken the animal to such an extent as to ren- 
 der it incapable of eating its usual quantity of food, thereby 
 causing a sick, feverish, and thirsty condition. Water being 
 placed before the animal in its feverish state, it drinks 
 largely to supply the liquid deprived from the flesh by this 
 bleeding, as well as to relieve a feverish thirst. As a con- 
 sequence the rich, thick, red blood is drawn from the ani- 
 mal and newly replaced by a large quantity of water. This 
 watery mixture is drawn back through the veins and flesh, 
 which has the effect of thinning and whitening, or of pro- 
 ducing the desired handsome, light, and clear-colored beef, 
 so stupidly sought after, and which is generally so much ad- 
 mired by those who have more regard for and knowledge, of 
 appearances they possess for these negative attributes, which 
 alike demonstrate the unsterling value, not only in man but 
 in the meats of beasts as well. 
 
 In Calves, this bleeding process is still worse, as it — for 
 the sake of whiteness — exhausts what little juice or sweet- 
 ness thsre is in Veal, leaving it a dry, insipid, and tasteless 
 flesh. 
 
 If, however, the calf should be immediately killed, fresh or 
 direct from the cow, without bleeding, the veal will be nat- 
 rally white, tender, juicy, and wholesome food. On the 
 other hand, the startling facts present themselves that much 
 of the flesh called Veal, sold about our cities, really is not 
 fit for human food, in consequence either of its tender age, 
 starvation, bleeding, and the inhuman manner of conveying 
 these (and some other) animals through our streets to their 
 destination, or all combined. I have known instances where 
 
420 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 young calves have been taken from the cow in the morning, 
 rode some fifteen or twenty miles through a hot sun to the 
 market-boats or railroad station, then through the night 
 brought on to the city, the next morning purchased up by 
 the butchers (or rather by some of those who conduct the 
 business), who are sometimes cruel enough to pack some fif- 
 teen or twenty in a cart, with legs tied and heads hanging 
 over the sides ; then carried over the rough pavement to the 
 place of their destination, when they are often found injured 
 and in a half-smothered condition ; this, with their continued 
 bleating and starvation, for sometimes from twenty to fifty 
 hours (and I have known them to be in pens afterwards for 
 a week or more without proper food). When killed, the 
 veal of such treated animals will be very red, veiny — the re- 
 sult of this feverish state. Such veal would not sell so well 
 as if it had been whitened, as is usually done, by the bleed- 
 ing process. This is one of the just causes for com- 
 plaint against this poor, insipid, tasteless, and unwhole- 
 some veal. 
 
 Thousands of calves, or their flesh, are brought and sold 
 in our cities, of an age altogether too young for human 
 food. Sometimes they are found not above three days old, 
 while the majority of all brought are not ten days old ; and 
 this kind of flesh is principally sold throughout our cities, 
 especially in those places called " cheap meat shops" or 
 " private markets," often by men who purchased it ready 
 dressed, and who really do not know whether it is the flesh 
 of a dog or calf. 
 
 This fact is shown in a police court, by the testimony pro- 
 duced before Justice Perry, of Williamsburg, Long Island, 
 which is set forth in the Daily Tribune, April 6, 1855. One 
 of the witnesses — George Pessinger — who had been a regu- 
 lar butcher for forty years, states that " he saw nine quar- 
 ters of plated veal hanging up in a meat-shop in Grand- 
 street, which, if the whole nine quarters were tried out, 
 after taking away the pork-fat. which the kidneys were 
 plated with, enough fat could not be got out to grease a 
 
BLEEDING ANIMALS. 421 
 
 jackknife. Butchers call this bob-veal. I consider this meat 
 verj unwholesome ; it was very young, and had been starved 
 either here, or while it was being brought here." 
 
 The defendant wished to procure the Washington Market 
 butcher of whom he purchased the flesh, to prove that it 
 was good veal. 
 
 " Pessinger asked accused if he knew whether the meat 
 in question was veal or dog-meat. The accused answered 
 that he ' did not Tcnoiv, but he supposed it must be veal, as he 
 bought it for that.' " 
 
 Another instance is worthy of record, in which justice was 
 done to a Justice, found in the Herald, March, 1857, and 
 headed " Unsound meat venders — justice to New Jersey. — - 
 
 The case of Justice of the Peace D n, from Ramapo, 
 
 N. J., came up for trial. It will be recollected that Justice 
 D n was arrested for selling -premature veal in Washing- 
 ton Market a few days since, and in the absence of bail to 
 the amount of five hundred dollars, was locked up in the 
 Tombs. He plead guilty to the charge. Judge Russell 
 was disposed to send him up for the term of thirty days, 
 but upon the representation that Esquire D n had al- 
 ready suffered great loss in this transaction — 1st, the veal, 
 valued by him at sixty dollars ; 2d, time, five days in the 
 Tombs ; 3d, twenty-five dollars which he paid to certain 
 ! Tombs' skinners or ' shysters,' who pledged to procure him 
 bail, and of course failed to redeem their pledges. His 
 Honor, Judge Russell, after giving him unmistakable as- 
 surance that a repetition of the offence would demand the 
 severest penalty of the law, let him off with a fine of 
 twenty-five dollars, which he promptly paid. Justice 
 
 D n , after congratulating himself and friends upon his 
 
 safe deliverance from the Tombs, took the cars for his rural 
 home in Ramapo." 
 
 No calf should be permitted to be sold (for veal) until it is 
 four weeks old ; again, more care should be bestowed on 
 the feeding and conveying them from place to place. 
 
 Many country people, however, carry them in a proper 
 
422 THE MABKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 manner ; that is, untied in a pen placed on wagon-wheels, 
 which plan should be employed in our cities, either by the 
 large dealers or the cartmen, who would be patronized by 
 those, at least, who had a spark of humanity towards dumb 
 animals. 
 
 I have known sheep to have been similarly bled, and 
 even have heard of lambs having also been bled. This, I 
 believe, is now seldom done in this country, In England, 
 however, it appears much practised, and lately I read of a 
 butcher having been arrested at Oxford for " cruelty to 
 animals," and fined five pounds, with one pound costs. The 
 cruelty stated was, the butcher " having possessed himself 
 of the knife, he seized the head of one of the lambs and 
 made a deep incision under each of its eyes. The knife 
 was blunt, and the blood not flowing freely at first, defend- 
 ant again applied the knife, drawing it across the creature's 
 face several times, until the blood spirted out in a stream. 
 The same operation was repeated on the other lambs, one 
 of which fainted from the loss of blood," etc. The butcher 
 said in his defence " there was no cruelty at all in the act 
 complained of, in proof of which he had practised it him- 
 self for nearly forty years." He added, " that if these ani- 
 mals were not bled in the manner complained of, the flesh 
 would not look so white as some carcasses to which he di- 
 rected the officer's attention." 
 
 Ram mutton is generally of a dark color, and I have often 
 seen them bled in this manner to whiten the meat, so that 
 it would appear like wether mutton ; this, however, is a 
 cruel way of torturing before killing the animal. As I have 
 before observed, this bleeding practice is almost discon- 
 tinued. I am happy to say few respectable butchers are 
 now guilty of this cruelty. It is a wrong and barbarous 
 act, which secures nothing but whiteness or presumed hand- 
 some-colored meats, at the expense of weight and the fine 
 sweet juices which make the sappy, sweet-flavored, and 
 wholesome meats. 
 
COOKS AND COOKEEY. 423 
 
 COOKS AND COOKERY. 
 
 It was the saying of some ancient Epicurean philosopher 
 " that eating is the chief end of man." If this view be 
 correct, and we will admit that it is correct, so that the 
 subject of cooks and cookery can be here illustrated by 
 another popular axiom, that the Almighty sends us meats 
 and his Satanic majesty sends us cooks. As a rule, our 
 readers will admit this to be a truism. The object, then, of 
 good cookery is paramount to the happiness of man. To 
 this end good cooks become a necessity, and no doubt 
 would be, and are, highly estimated when possessed. We, 
 unlike people of other nations, call cooks cooks, and nothing 
 else. We do not recognize them by the name of artists. 
 To a certain extent, however, they are artists — artists ca- 
 tering to the internal, contra-distinguishing those artists 
 who appeal to the externals. 
 
 The extent of attributes, invention, practical experience, 
 genius, taste, are all to be found in cooks of the first 
 class. Cookery has become so important an art, that the 
 highest order of cooks are acknowledged as well as admitted 
 as one holding an honorable and important position in 
 society. 
 
 An eminent author says : " No person can be a good cook 
 who is not at the same time a chemist, a botanist, a physi- 
 ologist, a draughtsman, and even something of a geome- 
 trician. Independent of these required requisites, he had 
 need be endowed with many natural gifts ; for he must have 
 a keen scent, a delicate sense of taste and touch, with a 
 quick ear, else he will ever be liable to be deceived as to the 
 state and maturing of meats, the due seasoning of ragouts, 
 the doneness of the boiled and roast, the stewing of the 
 viands, the condition of the various pastes. It is of the last 
 importance, therefore, that a cook should be perfect in his 
 corporeal senses, and ready in his mental ones." 
 
424 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 " A master cook ! why he's the man of men 
 For a professor. He designs, he draws, 
 He paints, he carves, he builds, he fortifies, 
 Makes citadels of curious fowl and fish. 
 
 " Some he dry-dishes, some motes round with broth, 
 Mounts marrow-bones, cuts fifty-angled custards, 
 Rears bulwark pies, and for his outer works 
 He raiseth ramparts of immortal crusts !" — Ben Jonson. 
 
 Some families are fortunate in securing good cooks, while 
 hundreds complain daily of having bad ones; and their 
 usual complaints are : " We cannot get them ; they are not 
 to be had, even at very high wages. We look through the 
 advertisements in the daily papers, and numbers we find 
 which, from description, are just the thing we want ; so we 
 note down in our memoranda some ten or twenty of those 
 who are ' to be seen between the hours of twelve and two — 
 for two days.' When we look over our list they appear 
 so scattered, that we feel almost discouraged ; but their 
 advertisements read so well — just such as we want exactly — 
 that we expect the first visited will suit us. 
 
 " Our start is made, and we run ourselves up and down a 
 half-dozen ' third-story back rooms,' from one side of the 
 town to the other, in the most filthy places of our city ; in 
 fact, so filthy that we would prefer almost anybody to cook 
 for us rather than take up with persons that advertise in 
 such quarters, their boarding and lodging retreats ; finally 
 we are worn down, sick, and tired almost to death, without 
 the possibility of being suited. As a last resort, we then 
 apply at the Intelligence office, and find it crowded with 
 some fifty or a hundred servants. Ten or fifteen good cooks 
 are presented to us that ' can come well recommended.' 
 We question them as to their knowledge, etc., and find they 
 know something ; but they, in turn, like the ' advertisers,' 
 want to know how large the family is, how many afternoons 
 and evenings they can have in the week, what nights they 
 can have a ' little compamy,' what perquisites are allowed, 
 

 COOKS AND COOKERY. 425 
 
 etc. The first six girls will also tell you that there is work 
 enough in your family for one or two assistants (besides 
 your other help) ; others will say they have always been 
 allowed two or more afternoons in a week, etc., etc. ; and 
 finally they will dwindle down to one, which you in despair 
 conclude to try for one week. The first day she has a steak 
 to cook. She puts it down- to broil over a miserable, poor, 
 hard-coal fire, where it is left to dry up (instead of cooking), 
 when, by the time dinner is ready, the steak having pre- 
 viously passed through the process of what they call broil- 
 ing, has been placed in the oven to keep hot until ready to 
 be served. At the table it is brought before the carver, 
 who enters upon his duties ; he commences by complaining 
 of his dull knife, and by the time he has served all, the 
 ' dull knife' complaint has become general all around the 
 table, until some one discovers that it is the steak— & tough 
 steak — dry, insipid, tasteless ; and all now believe that the 
 fault is alone in the steak. Then the butcher ' takes it,' not 
 on, but behind, his back, and it may be with truth that he 
 is the guilty individual. But the good cook will certainly 
 know whether the steak is tough or not before it is laid on 
 a bed of hot coals." If she finds it a really tough steak, 
 she will have the rough-faced mallet to work until she is 
 satisfied that there will not be much complaint when it is 
 served up direct from the quick fire and the gridiron. It 
 is not alone the steak, but to all joints of meat, more es- 
 pecially corned beef, that this language applies. Corned 
 beef seldom if ever is properly cooked. I here illustrate 
 an instance where such complaints as here mentioned came 
 from two of our most respectable families. The complaint 
 came from the family of the married daughter, in relation 
 to corned beef. I was repeatedly told that I gave to her 
 father's family better corned beef than to the daughter. I 
 wished to impress her mind such was not the case ; that 
 the apparent inferiority of the corned beef supplied to her 
 was caused by inferior cookery ! " That," she said, " could 
 not be, as their cook was old, experienced, and a very good 
 
426 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 one." I replied, " The next piece of corned beef you re- 
 ceive send it to your father's cook, and let her prepare it 
 for you." Previous to this I had (from these causes of 
 complaint) taken two of the same kind of pieces, and from 
 the same animal, and arranged it so that they both had 
 their corned beef near at the same time. The usual report 
 came back, that the father's meat was excellent, and that of 
 the daughter very indifferent. Not long after this, the 
 daughter, making her marketing, frankly confessed to me, 
 " I begin to think that it is not so much the fault with your 
 corned beef, as it is in the cooking of it. I ate of your 
 corned beef, which I sent to my father's yesterday, and 
 there had it cooked ; it was perfectly delicious. In fact, I 
 always get good corned beef there." " Yes," I rejoined, 
 " they have a good cook there, especially for preparing 
 corned beef." 
 
 I was once informed by an old patron how he and his 
 wife learned tc cook corned beef. He said : " Soon after we 
 were married, some 30 years ago, I had a job of carpenter 
 work to do on Staten Island, which required some three or 
 four hands to complete, and as we could not work the regu- 
 lar hours, in consequence of having to conform to the ferry- 
 boats' time of leaving at both ends of the route — that is, to 
 go down with the first boat in the morning and leave with 
 the last in the evening — which made the hours of work be- 
 tween eight, A. M., and four, p. M., so that we had only time 
 enough to make a hasty meal at noon, and then continue 
 until the time for the last boat. Well, as I had to furnish 
 this hasty meal, I thought it best to have a piece of corned 
 beef boiled that night, so that we could carry a part with 
 us. A good-sized piece was procured, and it was quite late 
 before it began to boil ; my wife, however, not being very 
 well, retired to bed, and as I had been hard to work all day, 
 two hours watching the pot and beef began to tell upon me, 
 and I concluded to lay down and leave a slow fire under the 
 pot, not thinking, however, but I would wake up about the 
 time it was done ; or, I concluded if it did cook pretty well 
 
COOKS AND COOKERY. 427 
 
 it would do no harm ; and sure enough, it must have sim- 
 mered slowly until the fire went out, perhaps some seven or 
 eight hours. We awoke early, and the first thought was of 
 the meat in the pot, with the conclusion that it would be all 
 in pieces, or else soggy and tasteless ; it was, however, lifted 
 out whole, and being almost cold, it was cut and tasted ; we 
 found it to be tender, sweet, and juicy, and my men thought, 
 as well as all who tasted it that day, that never was eaten 
 such a delicious piece of corned beef. Since that time my 
 corned beef, hams, tongues, or any kind of salted meat in- 
 tended to boil, is put over early and left to slowly boil or 
 simmer a long time, and after it is done the pot is lifted off 
 the fire, when the meat is allowed to cool in the pot from 
 twenty minutes to half an hour. Following this process we 
 always have good boiled meat, and so say all our friends who 
 sit at my table and partake of them." 
 
 Very many of our good cooks, if asked " if they know how 
 to cook a potato ?" " Why, yes ; anybody can cook a po- 
 tato !" they most indignantly reply ; but when their capa- 
 bility is tested (it may not be the first or the second day) 
 the potatoes will be found either underdone, or overdone, 
 spoiled by being too hard, or heavy, or soggy and watery — 
 when this good cook will tell you the potatoes have been 
 boiled the usual time. 
 
 My experience informs me that a cook knowing how and 
 always cooking potatoes well, that she will generally be 
 found a tolerable good plain cook, she having then at least 
 the character of watchfulness and ordinary judgment, two 
 qualifications very essential to the cook. 
 
 Cruikshank, in his " Omnibus," gives some humorous re- 
 marks, while relating the trouble in obtaining a good cook, 
 He says : " We have just had another new cook ; but too 
 sure I am that, like the whole "tribe of cooks that enter our 
 f amily, she will never pass the boundaries of the cognomen 
 of new cook. All our cooks have been new. The oldest 
 one we have ever had, in my remembrance, was a prodigy 
 of a month's service in our kitchen ; and although it must 
 
428 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 
 be confessed that, even during that period, she was twice 
 threatened or warned by my mother, her long stay was as- 
 tonishing to us all. Compared with her predecessors she 
 was quite a fixture in the house. 
 
 " It would take up too much room to detail one-half of 
 the discrepancies of our cooks. One, as my maiden aunt 
 delicately observes, becomes quite inebriated — off she goes. 
 Another has followers — off she goes. Another increases her 
 kitchen stuff, at the expense of the fat of the meat, which 
 she cuts off to a nicety (and my father is particularly fond of 
 fat) — off she goes. Another cannot cook a potato — off she 
 goes. Another forms a clandestine match with the butler 
 after a week's intimacy — off she goes— he, too, falling a vic- 
 tim and losing his place. 
 
 " When I say that my mother seldom overlooks the first 
 offence, I explain . pretty clearly how it is that every week 
 finds us with a new cook. On the day of their engagement, 
 my sanguine parent invariably tells us she has found a trea- 
 sure ; a cook with such a character — never drinks — no fol- 
 lowers — so honest — can cook any thing — such a woman for 
 making made-up (sometimes called French) dishes, etc. In 
 a few days this treasure of a cook turns out to be, without 
 a single exception, the very worst we ever had to endure 
 (for it rather singularly happens that each in succession is 
 the very worst). ' Oh, that dreadful woman !' is the cry. She 
 boils what she should roast, and roasts what she should boil ; 
 she is a snuff-taker, and almost every thing she cooks is sup- 
 posed to savor of Lundy-foot or Prince's mixture — off she goes, 
 before we find out a fair half of her intolerable propensities. 
 
 " The last treasure we had only cooked our dinner on one 
 day ! She must have been a practitioner in some wholesale 
 cooking establishment — cook to an ordinary on a grand 
 scale, where dinner for a hundred and forty was daily pre- 
 pared. We had to dine on cold meat for a week after she 
 left us. You must know, that, on the first day of her instal- 
 ment in office, the butcher had been directed (we live a few 
 miles from town, and at a distance from any market-place) 
 
COOKS AND COOKERY. 429 
 
 to send us a supply of animal food sufficient to last for 
 about eight days. There were a leg of mutton, a saddle of 
 mutton, a sirloin of beef, a round of beef, and various other 
 small knick-knacks for side-dishes. Well, my dear, credu- 
 lous mother received the new cook as usual. She found her 
 to be a most enormous treasure ; and she can, at this day, 
 make affidavit, if necessary, that she gave her the proper 
 directions about the dinner. On the day the circumstances 
 I am about to relate took place, we had merely the family 
 at dinner. On entering the dining-room, I observed my 
 mother gently start, as her eye encountered a great number 
 of large dishes round the table. She, however, suppressed 
 her astonishment, took her place at the head of the table 
 (my father never carved), said grace, and was sinking slowly 
 into her chair as the servant raised the first cover. My 
 mother instantly started up, exclaimed in a tone of alarm, 
 and with turned-up eyes, ' Mercy on us ! the leg of mutton !' 
 All eyes turned in a moment upon the uncovered mutton, 
 and then on my agitated mother. The servant, after a 
 pause, laid his hand upon the second cover, upon which my 
 mother had bent her looks. Up . went the cover, amidst 
 curling wreaths of steam. 'Good gracious! look at the 
 sirloin!' cried my mother. "We all looked accordingly at 
 the sirloin, but without discovering in it any thing peculiarly 
 different from other sirloins. The removal of the next cover 
 exhibited the round of beef : another exclamation from my 
 mother. We now all commenced staring, first at the joints, 
 then at mj mother, and then at each other. We certainly 
 began to think, when a fourth joint had appeared in view, 
 that there ivas 'something wrong.' A pause ensued; my 
 father broke it. - In the name of wonder,' said he, ' what's 
 the matter ?' ' O that new cook !' answered my mother, with 
 a groan. ' What has she done ?' inquired my father. ' The 
 whole toeek's marketing!' said my mother, sinking into a chair, 
 for she had been standing all this time." 
 
 Many families, hotels, steamboats, etc., leave all their 
 household and other accounts, as well as the choosing 
 
430 THE MABKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 tradesmen, in the hands of their stewards, housekeepers, 
 waiters, cooks, or other help. Many of these make it a rule 
 to select such tradesmen only who, by them, are either com- 
 pelled or voluntarily pay them bribes (or vails, as they are 
 called in England), sometimes to very large amounts, to re- 
 tain them as their customers. For such perquisites to the 
 servants, of course, the employers are overcharged to make 
 up the amounts paid. 
 
 Then, again, the help is generally complimented in kind or 
 pay, in proportion to the amount of the bills — that is, the 
 greater the amount of the bills, the greater the bribe is 
 given. The consequence of all this is, that such kind of 
 help will manage to consume or waste, as much as possible, 
 the various articles, in order to receive a bribe in due pro- 
 portion to their consumption. This bribing custom has 
 been introduced by the foreign airs and foreign practices of 
 our foreign help, who have introduced and taught their art 
 and usage from the large cities of Europe, and who, absurd 
 as it may appear, will not employ any of ' onr respectable fami- 
 lies, unless they are permitted to act the financial medium 
 between them and their trades-people. These foreign 
 gargons must select the grocer, the butcher, the baker, the 
 poulterer, the fishermen, etc., and of course those tradesmen 
 are selected who have the most elastic consciences and 
 purses, and who will faithfully screen the servant's rascali- 
 ties and merited disgrace. 
 
 While showing up the dishonesty of our foreign help, per- 
 haps it may not be deemed impertinent to the point to show 
 the modus operandi of those who encourage in this respect 
 the servant's dishonesty. A respectable and conscientious 
 cook, in whom her employers had the utmost confidence, 
 informed me that a butcher close by my stand had offered 
 her a ten-dollar bill to induce her employer to trade with 
 him : finding that he could not bribe her to trade with him, 
 he attempted to pass off the proposition as a joke ; but as 
 similar attempts had been made by him upon other ser- 
 vants with success, he was treated accordingly. 
 
COOKS AND COOKERY. 431 
 
 The worst feature befalling these persons in such cases 
 is, that although these dealers may occasionally be success- 
 ful in inducing servants to change trades-people by such 
 discreditable means'resorted to, yet sooner or later, they are 
 apt to be discovered, and then the trader or family is not 
 only lost to both the new as well as the old dealers, and very 
 often the market also ; as many conscience-stricken do not 
 like to be seen changing from one dealer to another, they of 
 course do not wish to acknowledge their mistakes by re- 
 turning to their old places of dealing. The fact is there are 
 heads of many families who are not aware of the iniquity 
 and injury done by many of these named dealers, with their 
 foreign aids and domestic help. My evidence, however, is 
 now in relation to the two latter, proceeding with several 
 instances from my experience of the peculiar help, which 
 many families have found, to their cost, more plentiful than 
 those of the more faithful. 
 
 The family of a prominent merchant, residing in the Fifth 
 Avenue, for several years had dealt satisfactorily, I believe, 
 with the author. This family was fortunate ! enough in se- 
 curing the services of foreign help (respectively cook and 
 waiter), in the persons of man and his wife. The wife (cook) 
 was supplied with a pass-book to market with, and thereby 
 not having the opportunity of cheapening, or purchasing 
 articles of inferior qualities, and pocketing the difference in 
 her favor, as if she had been supplied with the ready money 
 daily to make the market purchases ; but at the end of the 
 month, when the monthly bill was paid by her, she demand- 
 ed "percentage" as she called it, for herself. " What do you 
 mean by percentage ?" I demanded. " Why," she says, " I 
 mean five per cent., of course, on all butchers' bills, and 
 other tradesmens' bills, as are allowed in England." " Well, 
 to be sure," I replied, " as yet we have not, in this country, 
 arrived at that state of tradesmen's perfection in trading 
 with servants, when we shall have to rob the employer to 
 bribe the servants with Jive per cent, on their bills when they 
 are paid. If your employer does not pay you wages enough 
 
 25 
 
432 THE MAKKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 ask him for more ; but you cannot introduce those terms 
 here."* She was highly indignant, and flounced away with 
 a threat that she would not patronize me again ; and she did 
 not. Soon after she was successful in finding a place .to 
 trade, where, I suppose, she received her Jive per cent 
 
 In a note to her employer (with whom I was not person- 
 ally acquainted ; he, as many other heads of families, never 
 go to market), I informed him of the circumstances. The 
 note was not answered, and I felt as if their absence, under 
 the circumstances, was more profitable and satisfactory to 
 me than their custom, so long as they countenanced the dis- 
 honesty of their help. 
 
 The following presents another phase. The cook of one 
 of my patrons, who had been dealing with me twelve or 
 fourteen years, who once in a while came to me for her 
 marketing, about Christmas time gave me several hints 
 that something from me was expected for her " Christ- 
 mas-box." Christmas came, and with it her importunities. 
 " Well, what can I give you ?" I asked. She replied " that 
 their trade was large, and it was by her repeated interces- 
 sion or I would have lost it long ago," and finished up the 
 unblushing demand, that she could not expect less from me 
 than a ten-dollar gold piece ! " Now," I observed, " do you 
 think that I would be doing right to present you with this 
 amount of money? If so, then I ought not to give less 
 than one hundred others, who have the same right to ask 
 from me the same amount as you have demanded." 
 
 This reasoning did not strike her with sufficient force to 
 satisfy her. Before she left she had reduced her demand to 
 a five-dollar gold piece as a ' Christmas-box' gift. I am 
 pleased to put it on record, she did not get it. As she 
 was leaving, she gave me to understand that it was the last 
 month the family would patronize me. I paid no attention 
 to her threat. About two weeks after this incident I had a 
 
 * On one occasion an employer, being informed of his servant's act, val- 
 uing lier services, authorized me to pay the percentage and add the same to 
 his bill. 
 
COOKS AND COOKERY. 433 
 
 visit from (the lady) the head of the family, who told me 
 the meats I sent her were not so good as those formerly 
 sent, that her cook complained very much about the quality, 
 etc. I told the lady that I expected to have heard . this 
 complaint before, and I also told her about the demand for 
 a " Christmas-box" — and further, that I must decline serv- 
 ing her so long as she kept that cook, as she would spoil 
 every joint of meat I should send her, unless she was 
 watched. In a few days the lady sent me word that she had 
 changed her cook. 
 
 Another instance of a character different from this oc- 
 curred a few years ago. A young (and no doubt a happy) 
 couple commenced their career in marketing by dealing 
 with me. As their family (of course) was not large, they 
 often had a small steak or a few chops. The young hus- 
 band (as he had, jokingly, once or twice before) observed to 
 me, " "Why don't you send me some tenderloin in our steaks ? 
 — we always have it when we dine out.'* " I generally do," 
 I replied, " when you order such." " Well, but we don't 
 get it," he rejoined. " Then there must be some wrong 
 with my help or your cook," I continued. " I will send you 
 a steak to-day, with a good tenderloin in it ;" which tender- 
 loin I marked in his presence, which I requested him to see 
 whether his cook or anybody else cut any of it off, before 
 it was placed on the table. He went home and informed 
 his wife of the intended watch on the tenderloin, "When the 
 steak was served, lo ! the tenderloin was missing, and he in- 
 formed me that the cook shortly after was also missing. 
 
 The following squib offers another feature of similar 
 doings. A gentleman addressed his servant, "James, I 
 have always placed the greatest confidence in you ; now 
 tell me, James, how is it that my butcher's bills are so large, 
 and that I always have such bad dinners ?" " Eeally, sir, 
 I don't know, for I am sure we never have any thing nice in 
 the kitchen, that we don't send some of it up in the parlor" 
 
INDE X 
 
 TO THE VARIOUS JOINTS AND OTHER PARTS USED IN THE 
 DOMESTIC OR TAME ANIMALS. 
 
 Animal for Beef, figure of an, 35. 
 for Mutton, " 67. 
 for Pork, 79, " 82. 
 for Veal, 60. 
 Bacon, the parts of the Hog used for, 99, 100. 
 
 Flitch of, and the origin of, 99, 100. 
 Baron of Beef, 37. 
 
 the Boasting of the, 39. 
 Barrow Pigs for Pork, 77. 
 Beef, Aitch or Edge Bone of, 36, 51. 
 
 Best Chuck-rib of, 36, 55. 
 
 Boler piece, 36. 
 
 Bones, 91. 
 
 Brisket of, 57. 
 
 Buffalo Heifer or Half Bison, 58, 59. 
 
 Bull, character of, 30, 36. 
 
 Bullock for, 29. 
 
 Butt-end of Brisket of, 36. 
 
 Buttock of, 51. 
 
 Carcass of, 32. 
 
 Choice Animal for, 35. 
 
 Chuck of; 53, 55. 
 
 Chuck-piece of, 36. 
 
 Chuck-rib cut of, 36. 
 
 Chuck Steaks, 57. 
 
 Clod of, 36, 57, 58. 
 
 Cooking Corned, 426, 427. 
 
 Corned and Salted, 97. 
 
 Cow, character of, 30, 31 
 
 Cross-rib of, 36, 53, 57. 
 
 Edge, or H. Bone of, 36, 51. 
 
 Fat, what produces, 28, 29. 
 
 Face Rump of, 36, 50. 
 
 Figure of an Animal for, 35. 
 
 Filet-de-Bceuf or Fillet of, 40, 41, 48. 
 
 First Chuck-rib of, 36. 
 
 First Cut Neck of, 36. 
 
 First Cut Chuck-rib of, 36, 55 
 
 First Cut-rib of, 36, 53. 
 
 First Rib-cut of, 36. 
 
 First Cut, round of, 36, 5x. 
 
 Prime Rib of, 36. 
 
 Flank, 36. 
 
 Flank-piece of, 36. 
 
 Fore-quarter, to cut the, 52. 
 
 Fore-rib of, 36. 
 
 Free Marten. 29. 
 
 Half-Bison, 58, 59. 
 
 Heifer for, 29, 30. 
 
 Beef, Hind and fore-quarters of, 32. 
 Hind-quarter, cutting up the, 39. 
 Hip Sirloin of, 36, 41. 
 Hook-bone of, 36. 
 How to make tender, 109. 
 Jerked, 29, 98. 
 Leg of, 36, 52. 
 
 Leg-of-mutton piece of, 36, 57. 
 Leg-ran of, 36. 
 Middle Ribs of, 36, 54. 
 Middle Cut, Sirloin of, 40. 
 Navel end of Brisket of, 36. 
 Navel-pieces of, 36, 53, 57. 
 Neat Cattle for, 29, 30. 
 Neck-cut of, 36. 
 Neck-pieces of, 36, 57. 
 Ox, character of, 80, 31. 
 Ox, tails of, 89, 
 Pinbone-Sirloin of, 86. 
 Plate-piece of, 36, 53, 57. 
 Quarters of, 32. 
 
 Rattle-ran, or Runner-piece of, 86, 53, 57. 
 Round of, 36, 51. 
 Rump-piece or Rump of, 36. 
 Scotch Roll of, 57. 
 Second Chuck-rib of, 36. 
 Second-cut Chuck-rib of, 36, 56 
 Second-cut Neck-piece of, 36. 
 Second- cut Rib of, 36, 52, 54. 
 Second-cut Round of, 36, 51. 
 Second prime Ribs of, 36. 
 Shank or Shin of, 36, 58. 
 Shoulder-Clod of, 36, 57, 58. 
 Shoulder-of-mutton piece of, 36. 
 Side of, 32. 
 
 Sirloin of (origin of the name), 82, 36, 39. 
 Small-end Sirloin of, 36, 
 Smoking pieces of, 51. 
 Socket piece of, 36, 50. 
 Spayed Heifer for, 29, 30. 
 Stag Beef, character of, 29, 31. 
 Stall-fed, 28, 29. 
 Steak, the origin of, 41, 
 Steer for, 29. 
 
 Sticking piece of, 5S. ^ 
 
 Tail-end Rump of, 36. 
 Tenderloin of, 40, 41, 48. 
 Thick end of Brisket of, 36. 
 Thick-end of Neck of, 36. 
 
436 
 
 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 Beef, Thick-end of Sirloin of, 41. 
 Thick-end of Flank of, 36. 
 Thin-end of Brisket of, 36, 53, 5T. 
 Third-cut Rib of, 36, 54 
 Third prime Rib of, 36. 
 Third-Rib cut of, 36. 
 Top of Sirloin of, 36, 52. 
 Various names to joints, 36. 
 Beeves' Bones, 91. 
 Brains, 90. 
 Bung-gut, 90. 
 Casins, 90. 
 Fat (difference between tallow fad), S7, 
 
 88. 
 Gall. 90. 
 Gut-fat, 8T. 
 Heads, 88. 
 Heart. 87. 
 Kidney, 87. 
 Liver, 86. 
 Marrow, 88. 
 Marrow-bones, 88. 
 or Cattle's Feet, 90. 
 or Cows' Udder, 88. 
 Palates. 89. 
 Suet, 87. 
 
 Sweet-breads and Skirts, 89. 
 Tongue, 85. 
 Udder, 88. 
 Blood Puddings, 104, 105. 
 Bologna Sausages, 102. 
 Bones of all kinds, 91. 
 Brawn (collar of), 105. 
 Buffalo Heifer or Half Bison, 58, 59. 
 Bung-gut (its use), 90. 
 Calf, figure of the, 60. 
 Calves' Brains, 92. 
 
 Chitterlings, 92. 
 Entrails and Fat, 92. 
 Eyes, 92. 
 Feet, 64, 92. 
 Haslet or Liver, 64, 92. 
 Head (and Feet), 60, 64, 91, 92 
 Heart, 92, 
 Kidneys, 92. 
 Liver (see Haslet), 92. 
 Melt, 92. 
 
 Not fit for food, 420, 421. 
 Sweet-breads, 64, 91. 
 Tongues, 92. 
 Cattle, the best for Beef, 29. 
 
 Feet, 90, 91. 
 Cheeks, or Chops, 102. 
 Chitterlings, or Calves, entrails and fat, 92. 
 Collar of Brawn, 105. 
 Corn-fed Pork, the character of, 28. 
 Cow Beef, 31. 
 Cow Heels, 90. 
 
 Domestic, or Tame Animals, 26. 
 Face Rump, or Socket-piece, 50. 
 Fat Beef, what produces, 28, 29. 
 Filet-de-Bosuf, or Tenderloin, 40, 41, 48. 
 Goat's Flesh, 84. 
 
 Grass-fed Beef, the character of, 28. 
 Gut-fat, used by the Jews, 19. 
 Haggis, Scotch, to make, 94, 95. 
 Hams and Shoulders, curing of Pork, 99, 101, 
 
 108. 
 Head-cheese, 104 
 
 Hogs, best for various purposes, 77, 78. 
 Casins, how used, 90. 
 Figures showing how to cut up, 79, 80, 81, 
 
 52. 
 for Bacon, 83. 
 
 Hogs, for barrelling, 83. 
 
 Varieties of, 76, 77. 
 Lamb, best kind, and how to choose it, T3, 74. 
 
 Bleeding, the cruelty of, 422. 
 
 Brains, 93. 
 
 Buck, 73. 
 
 Carcass of, 75. 
 
 Ewe, 73. 
 
 Fashion, or a Sheep dressed, 76. 
 
 Fore-quarter of, 76. 
 
 House, or Spring, 73, 74. 
 
 Leg of, 75. 
 
 Loin of, 76. 
 
 Staten Island, 76. 
 
 Wether, 73. 
 
 Yearling, 73. 
 Lambs' Brains, 93. 
 
 Eyes, 93. 
 
 Fry's, and Sweet-breads, 93. 
 Guts, or Casins, 94. 
 Haslet, or Pluck, 93. 
 Head, or Tups' Head, 93. 
 Hind-quarter of, 75. 
 Kidney, and Kidney-fat, 74, 93. 
 Melt, 94 
 Tongues, 93. 
 Trotters, 94 
 Lard, 103. 
 
 Leaf, 96. 
 Liver, Calves', or Pluck, 92. 
 Beeves', 86. 
 Lambs', or Pluck, 93 
 Sheep's, or Pluck, 93. 
 Marrow-bones, 88. 
 
 Meats, a quick mode of curing, 107. 
 Biscuit, 106, 
 Corned and salted, 97. 
 Cured in different ways, 97, 98, 99. 
 Fly-blown, 108, 109. 
 Frozen, or Poultry, 109. 
 Hung, or how to preserve, 27, 107, 416, 
 
 418. 
 Parts we use from Domestic Animals, 
 85. 
 . Seasons for the best, 27, 28. 
 Stall-fed, 28. 
 Tainted, or Game, 108. 
 Time for Salting, 97. 
 Used for various purposes, 97. 
 Wild, 110, 111. 
 Winded, or Blown, 74 75. 
 Melts, Calves', Sheep's, and Lambs', 92, 94 
 Mutton, Breast of, 67, 69, 73. 
 
 Carcass of, 68, 69, 70. 
 
 Chines of, 69, 70. 
 
 Choosing the best, 67. 
 
 Chops, 70, 71. 
 
 Christmas-killing, 68. 
 
 Corned, 98. 
 
 English, and Chops, 66, 71. 
 
 Flank of, 67. 
 
 Fore-quarter, 69, 71. 
 
 Fore-saddle. 69. 
 
 French Chops, 72, 73. 
 
 French Cotelette, 72, 73. 
 
 Gormandizer, 72. 
 
 Hind saddle, 69. 
 
 Leg of, 67, 69, 71. 
 
 Loin of, 67, 70. 
 
 Neck of, 67, 73. 
 
 Two fore-quarters, 69. 
 
 Ram, its character, 67. 
 
 Rib-chops, 72, 73. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 437 
 
 Mutton, Saddle-chops, 69. 
 Saddle of, 68, 69. 
 Scrag of, 6T, 69, 73. 
 Sbeep producing the best, 65. 
 Shoulder of, 67, 72. 
 Wether, 65. 
 Ox, A jewelled, 34. 
 
 Beef, the character of, 31. 
 Eyes, 90. 
 
 Feet, or Cow-heels, 89, 90. 
 Mow, 88. 
 
 or Cow's Teeth, 90. 
 Boasting, non-success of, 32. 33. 
 Boasting, " Olden Time," 33. 
 Tails, 89. 
 
 The richest gift to man, 26. 
 Pemmican, 105, 106. 
 Pigs, 76, 77. 
 
 Barrow, 77. 
 Ears, 96. 
 
 Feet, 79, 81, 82, 83. 
 Haslet, 96. 
 Head, 79, 80, 96. 
 Hocks, 96. 
 Kidneys, 96. 
 
 Leaf-fat, or Leaf-lard, 96. 
 Pate, or Skull, 96. 
 Boasting, 76. 
 Shoat, 77. 
 Sow, 77. 
 Tongue, 96. 
 Pluck, or Haslet, 96. 
 Pork, 76, 77, 78. 
 
 Back Fat, 82, 98. 
 Boar-Hog for,. 77. 
 Brisket of, 79, 81, 82, 83, 98. 
 Carcass of, 78, 79, 80, 81. 
 Carcass, cutting up, 78, 79, SO, 81. 
 Cheeks, 82, 83, 96. 
 Chine of, 79. 
 
 Chops, or Cheeks of, 82, 83, 96. 
 Clear, 98. 
 
 Corned, or Salted, 98, 
 Flank of, 79, 82, 83. 
 Fore-quarters of, 79, 81. 
 Hind-quarters of, 79, 81. 
 Hocks of, 79. 
 Hog, how fed, 78. 
 How to choose, 77. 
 Leaf-fat of, 83. 
 
 Leg of, or fresh Ham, 79, 82, 83. 
 Loin and Loin-pieces, T9, 82, 83. 
 Measley, 84. 
 Neck-pieces of, 82. 
 - Pate, or Skull of, 82, 83. 
 Shoulder of, 82, 83. 
 Bib, and Chine-pieces of, 82, 83. 
 Sow-Hogs for, 77. 
 Stag-Hogs for, 77. 
 Tail-piece of, 82. 
 Tenderloins, 81, 83. 
 Porterhouse Steaks, 45. 
 
 origin of, 45. 
 Puddings, 104, 105. 
 
 Blood, 104, 105. 
 Common, 104, 105. 
 opio,-.., .? 1,105. 
 Rennet, t— * ...> prepare, 106. 
 Rolliches, how to prepare, 102. 
 "Royal Baron of Beef," 37. 
 Rump of Beef, 50. 
 
 Rump, Steak of Boston and Philadelphia, 40. 
 Sausages, 103, 104 
 
 Bologna, 102. 
 Country, 103, 104. 
 Scotch Haggis, 94, 95, 96. 
 
 Ham, 51. 
 Sheep, bleeding, 422. 
 
 Buck, or Ram, 65. 
 Cosset, 65. 
 Ewe, 65. 
 Stag, 65. 
 
 Various breeds of, 66. 
 Sheeps' Brains, 93. 
 Eyes, 9a 
 
 Haslet, or Pluck, 93. 
 Heads, 93. 
 Kidneys, 93. 
 Melt, 94. 
 
 Paunch, or Stomach, 94. 
 Suet, 93. 
 Tongues, 93. 
 Trotters, 94 
 Shoats, or Porkers, 77. 
 Shoulders, Pork, 101. 
 Sirloin, 36. 
 
 Hip, 36, 41. 
 Middle-cut, 36, 40. 
 Origin of the word, 39. 
 Pinbone, 36. 
 Small-end, 36, 45. 
 Thick-end, 36, 41. 
 Thin-end, 40. 
 Top of, 36. 
 
 Steaks, Flat-bone, 41, 43. 
 Steaks, Hip, 41, 42. 
 Steaks, Round-bone, 41, 44. 
 Small Loin, or Porterhouse Steaks, 45, 46. 
 Stag-Bullock for Beef, 31, 32. 
 Spayed Heifer for Beef, 29, 30. 31. 
 Stall-fed Beef, 28. 
 Steaks, Chuck, 57. 
 Broiling, 44 
 Rump, 40. 
 Small Loin, 45, 46. 
 
 Various kinds of, 34 35, 40, 41, 44, 45, 46, 
 57, 59. 
 Suet, how to judge good, 31. 
 Sweet-breads, Calves, Throat and Heart, 64. 
 Tallow, the difference between fat and. 87, 83. 
 Tenderloin, or Filet-de-Bceuf, 48. 
 
 the missing, 433. 
 Top of Sirloin, 52. 
 
 Tripe, different parts and names of, 88, S9. 
 Udder, Beeves' or Cows', 88. 
 Veal, best Calf for, 59,60. 
 Breast of, 60, 64 
 Chops, 62. 
 
 Chump-end, Loin, 62. 
 Cutlets, 62. 
 Fillet of, 62. 
 Fore-quarter of, 63. 
 Hind- quarter of, 61. 
 How to judge good, 61. 
 Kidney end"ofLoin, 62. 
 Knuckle of, 62, 63. 
 Leg of, 60, 62. 
 Loin of, 60, 62. 
 Neck of, 60, 64. 
 Shoulder of. 60, 63. 
 Thick-end Loin of, 62. 
 Unwholesome, 419, 420, 421. 
 
438 
 
 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 WILD ANIMALS. 
 
 Antelope, American, or Prong-Horn, 120. 
 
 Badger, 132. 
 
 Bay Lynx, see Wild-Cat, 129. 
 
 Bear, Black, 124, 125. 
 
 Meat, or B'ar, 124, 125. 
 
 Eemarkable escape from a, 126, 127. 
 
 White, killed in Pennsylvania, 125, 126. 
 Bears killed at various places, 110, 124, 125, 126, 
 
 127. 
 Beaver, 131. 
 
 Big-Horn, or Mountain Sheep, 120, 121. 
 Bison, or Buffalo meat, 112, 113. 
 Black- Tailed, or Mule Deer, 118. 
 Buck, see Deer, 160. 
 Buffalo, or Bison meat, 112, 113. 
 Brains. 114. 
 Hump, 113,114. 
 Liver, 114. 
 Marrowbones, 114. 
 Tongue, 114. 
 Canada Lynx, see Wild-Cat, 129. 
 Caribou, or American Reindeer, 118. 
 Cavy, or Guinea- Pig, 123. 
 Deer, Black-Tailed, or Mule, 118. 
 
 Common, or Virginia, or Buck, 114, 160. 
 
 Hunting the, 116. 
 
 Large Buck, 115. 
 
 Transfixed, 116. 
 
 Snapping-Turtlo fastened to a, 115, 116. 
 
 Virginia, see Common Deer, 114, 116, 160. 
 Elk, or Wapiti, 116, 117. 
 
 Team, 117. 
 Fox, 110. 
 
 Game, Wild Animals called, 109 
 Goat, Rocky Mountain, 121. 
 
 Tame, see page 84. 
 Gray Hare, see Rabbit, 122. 
 Ground-Hog, or Woodchuck, 129, 130. 
 Guinea-Pig, or Cavy, 123. 
 Hare, curious incident of protection, 121, 122. 
 
 
 Hare, Gray, or Common Rabbit, 122. 
 
 Northern, or White, 110, 121. 
 Lynx, Bay and Canada, 129. 
 Moose, and Moose-hunting, 118, 119, 120. 
 Calf, half, 119. 
 Moufle, 119, 
 Tongue, 119. 
 Mountain Sheep, or Big-Horn, 120, 121. 
 Mule, or Black-Tailed Deer, 118. 
 Musk- Rat, or Musquash, 132. 
 Northern Hare, 121. 
 Opossum, 110, 129. 
 Otter, 110, 131, 132. 
 Panther, 110, 111. 
 Porcupine, 130. 
 
 Prong-Horn, or American Antelope, 120. 
 Rabbit, or Gray Hare, 122. 
 Rabbits, Domestic, or Fancy, 122, 123. 
 Raccoon, 110, 127. 
 
 Hunt, An experimental, 127, 128, 129. 
 Reindeer, American, or Caribou, IIS. 
 Rocky Mountain Goat, 121. 
 Skunk, 130, 131. 
 
 Skins, 130. 
 Squirrels, Black, 123. 
 
 Cat, 123. 
 
 Flying, 123. 
 
 Emigrating, 123. 
 
 Fox, 123. 
 
 Gray, 110, 123, 124. 
 
 Striped, 110, 123, 124 
 Venison, 111, 114, 115, 
 
 Buck, 110, 114, 115, 116. 
 
 Doe, 114. 
 
 Moose, 118, 119, 
 Wapiti, or Elk, 116, 117. 
 Wild Animals called Game, 109. 
 Cat, or Bay Lynx, 129. 
 Meats, 110. 
 Woodchuck, or- Ground-Hog, 129, 150. 
 
 POULTRY. 
 
 Bantam Fowls, 138. 
 Caponed Fowls, 134, 135. 
 
 How to judge, 135. 
 Large, 135. 
 Turkey, 140. 
 Capons, Slips, "or Slip, 135. 
 Chickens, 135, 136. 
 
 Spring, or Broilers, 136. 
 To judge, from a fowl, 136. 
 Cygnet, 142. 
 
 Domesticated Swan, 142. 
 Ducks, Various kinds of Tame, 142, 143. 
 Fowls, Bantam, 138. 
 Caponed, 134. 
 
 Guinea, see Guinea-Fowls, 138. 
 Pea, 140. 
 
 The best, 136, 137. 
 Fowl, curiosity and a freak of nature, 137, 138. 
 
 To judge a chicken from a, 136. 
 Geese, The best, 143. 
 
 Driving to market, 144. 
 Green, 145. 
 Giblets, 145. 
 Goose, An ancient, 143, 144 
 
 Guinea Fowls, or Pintada, 138. 
 
 Pig, see page 123. 
 Pea Fowls, 140, 141. 
 Pigeons, Fancy, 141, 142 
 
 Squabs, 141, 142.' 
 
 Tame, 141, 142. 
 
 Various kinds, 141. 
 Pintada, or Guinea Fowls, 138. 
 Poultry, 132, 133. 
 
 How to judge fresh, 134, 185. 
 
 Stale, " manufactured over,"' 13*4. 
 Pullets, 135. 
 
 Slips, or Slip-Capons, 135. 
 Spring Chickens, or Broilers, 136. 
 Squabs. Tame, 141, 142. 
 Swan, Domesticated, 142. 
 
 Young, see Cygnets, 142, 
 Tame Pigeons, Varieties of, 141. 
 
 Squabs, 142. 
 Turkey, Capon, 140. 
 
 Hen and Tom, 188, 139. 
 
 Poults, 140. 
 Turkeys, Large, 139, 149. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 439 
 
 WILD FOWL. 
 
 Brant, or Brent Goose, 149. 
 
 "White, see Snow Goose, 148. 
 Duck, American Scoter, or Butter-Bill, 156, 
 157. 
 
 American "Widgeon, 150, 153 
 
 Bald Pate, or Face, 150, 153. 
 
 Bastard, Broad-Bill, 153. 
 
 Black, or Dusky, 150, 152. 
 
 Blue-Bill, see Broad-Bill, 153. 
 
 Blue-Winged Teal, 153. 
 
 Brass-Eyed Whistler, see Harlequin, 154. 
 
 Broad-Bill, 153. 
 
 Buff-Breasted, see "Weaser, 154. 
 
 Buffel-Headed, see Dipper, 155. 
 
 Bull-Neck, see Dipper, 150. 
 
 Butter-Ball, see Dipper, 155. 
 
 Canvass-Back, 149, 150, 151. 
 
 Canvass-Back, found in the North River, 
 151. 
 
 Coot, see American Scoter, 156, 15T. 
 
 Creek, Broad-Bill, 153. 
 
 Dipper, 155. v 
 
 Dusky, see Black, 151. 
 
 Eider, see Squaw, 155. 
 
 G-adwell, see Gray, 154 
 
 German, see Gray, 154. 
 
 Goosander, see Weaser, 154. 
 
 Golden-Eyed, see Whistler, 155. 
 
 Gray, 154. 
 
 Great-Head, 155. 
 
 Great Northern Diver, see Loon, 157. 
 
 Green- Winged Teal, 153, 154 
 
 Hairy-Head, see Saw-Bill, 156. 
 
 Harlequin, 154, 155. 
 
 Hooded Merganser, see Saw-Bill, 156. 
 
 Hell Diver, 156. 
 
 Horned Grebe, 156. 
 
 Lesser Scaup, see Creek Broad-Bill, 153. 
 
 Long-Tailed, see Old "Wife, 155. 
 
 Loon, Curious incident with a, 157, 158. 
 
 Loon, or Great Northern Diver, 157, 158. 
 
 Lord, see Harlequin, 154. 
 
 Mallard, 150, 152. 
 
 Merganser, see Weaser, 154 
 
 Old Sqna-w, 276, 277. 
 
 Old Wife's difficulty with an American 
 angler, 155. 
 
 Pied, see Skunk, 156. 
 
 Duck, Pied Shell-Drake, 156. 
 
 Pin-Tail, Winter, or Sprig-Tail, 154. 
 Pochards, 150, 151, 152. 
 Red-Heads, 150, 151, 152. 
 Eed-Breasted Merganser, see Pied-Shell 
 
 Drake, 156. 
 Bing-Necked, see Bastard Broad-Bill, 
 
 153. 
 Buddy, see Salt-water Teal, 155. 
 Sand Shoal, see Skunk, 156. 
 Saw-Bill, 156. 
 Scaup, see Broad-Bill, 153. 
 Shell-Drake, see Saw-Bill, 156. 
 Shoal, see Squaw, 155. 
 Shoveller, 150, 154 
 Skunk, 156. 
 
 Spectacle, see Surf, 156. 
 Spoon Bill, see Shoveller, i50, 154 
 Sprig-Tail, see Pin-Tail, 150. 
 Squaw, 155, 156. 
 Summer, see Wood, 152. 
 Surf, 156. 
 
 Tufted, see Bastard Broad-Bill, 156 4 
 Velvet, see White-Winged Coot, 156. 
 Weaser, 154. 
 
 Welsh Drake, see Gray, 154 
 Whistler, 155. 
 White-Winged Coot, 156. 
 Wild Fowl, called Game, 145. 
 Winter, see Pin-Tail, 154 
 Wood, or Summer Duck, 152, 153. 
 Goose, Brent, or Brant, 149. 
 
 Canada, see Wild Goose, 148. 
 Hutchins, 149. 
 Mud, 149. 
 
 Snow, or White Brant, 148. 
 Wild, 148, 150. 
 Swan. Cygnet, 147. 
 
 ' Trumpeter, 148. 
 Whistling, 147. 
 Wild, 147. 
 Teal, Blue-Winged, 153. 
 Green-Winged, 153. 
 Salt-water, 155. 
 Widgeon, American, see Bald-Pate Duck, 150, 
 
 153. 
 Whistling Swan, see Swan, 147. 
 Wild Swan, see Swan, 147. 
 
 BIRDS CALLED GAME. 
 
 American Coot, Hen- Bill, or Mud-Hen, 170. 
 Avocet, see Blue-Stocking, 167, 168. 
 Bartram's Sand-Piper, 165. 
 Beach Bird, see Piping Plover, 165. 
 Birds called Game, 145, 158. 
 
 not used as human food, 179, 180. 
 
 which ought to be protected, 146, 147. 
 Bittern, American, 172. 
 Blackbirds, Various kinds, 176, 177. 
 Black-Bellied, or Whistling Plover, 166. 
 Black-Breasted Snipe, Winter Snipe, etc., 166. 
 Black-Capped Thrush, see Cat-Bird, 178. 
 
 Cock, or Black Grouse, 163. 
 
 Gull, or Black Tern, 170, 171. 
 
 Black-Necked Stilt, or Lawyer, 168. 
 Blue-Jay, 177. 
 
 Stocking, or American Avocet 167, 168. 
 Water Hen, 170. 
 Bobolink, 177, 178. 
 
 Brant Birds, Horse-Foot Snipes, or Turn- 
 stone, 165. 
 Brown Lark, 169. 
 
 Thrasher, 178. 
 Buff-Breasted Sandpiper, 166, 167. 
 Bull-Headed, or Beetle-Headed Piover, etc., 
 
 166. 
 Bullfinch, see Pine Grosbeak, 179. 
 Bunting, Lark, 176. 
 
440 
 
 THE MABKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 Bunting, Eice, see Keed-Birds, 177. 
 Snow, or Ortolans, 176. 
 Towhie, see Chewink, 178, 179. 
 California Quail, 162. 
 Canada Goose, see "Wild Goose, 148. 
 
 Grouse, or Spruce Partridge, 160, 161. 
 Cat-Bird, or Black-Capped Thrush, 178. 
 Cedar-Birds, see English Robins, 178. 
 Cherry-Birds, see English Robins, 178. 
 Chewink, Ground Robin, or Towhie Bunting, 
 
 178, 179. 
 Clapper-Rail, or Meadow-Hen, 170. 
 Coot, American, Hen-Bill, or Mud-Hen, 170. 
 Cock of the Plain, or Sage Cock, 162. 
 Common Snipe, 164, 165. 
 Cow-Bird, see Cuckoo, 179. 
 Crane, or Great Blue Heron, 171. 
 Curlew, Esquimaux, or Futes, 168. 
 Long, or Sickle-Billed, 168. 
 Red, see Marlin, 166. 
 Cuckoo, or Cow-Bird, 179. 
 Doe-Bird, 168. 
 
 Dove, Turtle, or Carolina Pigeon, 175. 
 Dowitcher, Quail, Snipe, etai 166. 
 Dunkadoo, see Green Heron, 172. 
 Eagles, 179. 
 
 English Partridges, 163. 
 Pheasants, 162. 
 
 Robins, Cedar-Birds, Yellow-Tails, 
 Cherry-Birds, Chatterers, Quaker- 
 Birds, Top-Knots, Crown-Birds 
 Spider-Birds, Cedar Wax-Wing, etc. 
 178. 
 Snipe, or Wilson Snipe, 164, 165. 
 Woodcock, 163. 
 Field Plover, 165. 
 
 Finch, American, or Yellow-Birds, 179- 
 Bull, 179. 
 Grav Shore, 168. 
 Purple, 179. 
 Sea-Side, 168. 
 Flood Gull, or Oyster-Catcher, 168. 
 Fresh-water Marsh, or Little Mud-Hen. 170. 
 Frost Bird, see Frost Plover, 165. 
 
 Plover, 165. 
 Futes, or Esquimaux Curlew, 168. 
 Game, Birds called, 145, 158. 
 Increase, cause of, 111. 
 Laws, 111, 146. 
 Gray Plover, Grass, Field, or Upland Plover, 
 
 165. 
 Great Blue Heron, or Crane, 171. 
 Great Marbled Godwit, or Marlin, 166. 
 Greater Yellow-Legged Snipe, 167. 
 Green Heron, 172. 
 
 Grouse, or Prairie-Hen, 114, 160, 161. 
 Black, 163. 
 Canada, 161. 
 
 Red, or Moor Cock, 163. 
 Sharp-Tailed, 161. 
 Willow, 162. 
 Gull, Black, or Black Tern, 170, 171. 
 Flood, or Oyster-Catcher, 168. 
 Eggs, 171. 
 Hawk, Night, 17S. 
 Hoath-Hen, or Prairie-Hen, 160. 
 Heron, Great Blue, or Crane, 171. 
 
 Black-Crowned, or Quack, 171. 
 Green, or Schyte-Poke, 172. 
 White-Crested, or Snowy White Poke, 
 171, 172. 
 High-Hole, Clape, or Golden-Winged Wood- 
 pecker, 175, 176. 
 Horse-Foot Snipe, 165, 166. 
 
 Hudsonian Godwit, 166. 
 
 Kildeer Plover, 166. 
 
 Kingfisher, or Belted Kingfisher, 177. 
 
 Lark, Brown, 169. 
 
 Bunting, or Lark, 176. 
 Meadow, or Meadow Starling, 175. 
 Shore, or Horned, 169. 
 Lawyer, or Black-Necked Stilt, 168. 
 or Blue-Stocking, 167, 16S. 
 Long-Billed Curlew, or Sickle-Billed Curlew, 
 
 168. 
 Long-Legged Sandpiper, 167. 
 Marlin, or Great-Marbled Godwit, 166. 
 
 -Ring-Tailed, 166. 
 Meadow-Hen, or Clapper-Rail, 170. 
 
 Larks, or Meadow Starlings, 175. 
 Snipe, or Pectoral Sandpiper, 167. 
 Moor-Cock, or Red Grouse, 163. 
 Mud-Hen, see American Coot, 170. 
 Night-Hawk, 178. 
 Oriole, or Baltimore Oriole, 176. 
 Ortolan, see White Snow-Bird, 176. 
 Owl and Rabbit, The hooting, 122. 
 Ox-Eyes, or Little Sandpiper, 169. 
 Ovster-Catcher, or Fiat-Foot Snipe, 168. 
 Partridges, Pheasants, Ruffed Grouse, 110, 138, 
 
 159, 16C. 
 Partridge, English, 163. 
 
 Poisonous, 159, 160. 
 Spruce, 161. 
 Pectoral Sandpiper, 167. 
 Pheasant, or Partridge, 159, 160. 
 
 English, 162, 163. 
 Pigeons, Carolina, or Turtle-Dove, 175. 
 
 Wild, and their plentifulness, 172, 173, 
 
 174, 175. 
 Wild Squabs, 172, 173. 
 Wild, Taking the, with sparnet, etc., 
 173, 174. 
 Pine Grosbeak, or Bullfinch, 179. 
 Pinnated Grouse, see Prairie-Hen, 160, 161. 
 Piping Plover, 165. 
 Plover, Beach-Bird, or Piping, 165. 
 
 Bull-Headed, or Beetle-Headed, 166. 
 Frost, Greenback, or Golden Plover, 
 
 165. 
 Gray, Grass, Field, or Upland, 165. 
 Kildeer, 166. 
 Ring, or Ring-Neck, 165. 
 Ruddy, or Sanderling, 166. 
 Whistling, or Black-Bellied, 166. 
 Prairie-Hen, Heath-Hen, or Prairie-Chicken, 
 
 160, 161. 
 Purple Finch, or Crested Purple Finch, 179. 
 Quack, or Black-Crowned Heron, 171. 
 
 or Night Heron, 171. 
 Quail, Common, 163, 164. 
 
 California, 162. 
 Quaker-Birds, see English Robins, 178. 
 Rail, Clapper, or Meadow-Hen, 170. 
 Sora, or Carolina, 169, 170. 
 Virginia, or Little Mud-Hen, 170. 
 Red-Breasted Sandpiper, 165. 
 
 Snipe, see Dowitcher, 166. 
 Red-Headed Woodpecker, 176. 
 Red Grouse, or Moor Cock, 163. 
 Reed-Birds, Rice-Buntings, Rice-Birds, or Bob- 
 olinks, 177. 
 Rice-Birds, or Buntings, see Reed-Bird, 177. 
 Ring-Tailed Marlin, or Hudsonian Godwit, 166. 
 Ring-Plover, or Ring-Neck, 165. 
 Robins, Ground, see Chewink, 178, 179. 
 Red-Breasted Thrush, 175. 
 Snipe, or Red-Breasted Sandpiper, 165. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 441 
 
 Robins, Wood, or Hermit Thrush, 178. 
 Robins, English, Cedar-Birds, etc., 178. 
 Buddy Plover, or Sanderling, 166. 
 Ruffed-Grouse, or Partridge! 159, 160. 
 Sage Cock, or Cock of the" Plains, 162. 
 Sanderling, 166. 
 
 Sandpiper, Buff-Breasted, 166, 167. 
 Bartram Sandpiper, 165. 
 Long-Legged, 167. 
 « Pectoral, or Meadow-Snipe, 167. 
 Red-Backed, 166. 
 Schinz's, 169. 
 Semi-palmated, 169. 
 Spotted, see Teeter-Tail Snipe, 169. 
 "Wilson's, or Ox-Eyes, 169. 
 Schyte-Poke, or Fly-up -the-Creek, 172. 
 Sea-Side, or Gray Shore Finch, 168. 
 Semi-palmated Tattler, 167. 
 Sharp-Tailed Grouse, 161. 
 Shore-Lark, or Horned-Lark, 169. 
 Sickle-billed Curlew, 168. 
 Bora, or Carolina Rail, 169, 170. 
 Snipe, Black-Breasted, or "Winter-Snipe, 166. 
 Dowitcher, 166. 
 English, or Wilson's, 164, 165. 
 Fiat-Foot, see Flood Gull, 168. 
 Greater, Yellow-Legged, 167. 
 Horse-Foot, or Brant" Bird, 165. 
 Jack, 167. 
 Marlin, 166. 
 "Meadow, 1 67. 
 Quail, 166. 
 Red-Breasted. 166. 
 King-Tailed, 166. 
 Robin, 165. 
 • Semi-palmated, 167. 
 Short-Neck, 167. 
 Teeter-Tail, or Tilt-up, 169. 
 White Robin, 165. 
 Willet, 167. 
 Wilson's, 164. 
 
 Snipe, Winter, 166. 
 
 Yellow-Legged, 167. 
 Snow-Birds, 177. 
 
 Sora, English, or Carolina Rail, 169, 170. 
 Spruce Partridge, or Canada Grouse, 161. 
 Tattler, Tell-Tale, see Greater Yellow-Legged 
 
 Snipe, 167. 
 Tattler, Green Rump, or Solitary, 169. 
 
 Yellow-Shank, 167. 
 Thrush, Black-Capped, see Cat-Bird, 17S 
 Hermit, or Wood Robin, 178. 
 Red-Breasted, see Robin, 175. 
 Tilt-TJp, see Teeter-Tail Snipe, 169. 
 Turkey, Wild, 158, 159. 
 Turnstone, 165. 
 
 Turtle-Dove, or Carolina Pigeon, 175. 
 Upland Plover, 165. 
 Virginia Rail, 170. 
 
 Water-Hen, Blue, or Virginia Water-Hen, 170. 
 White Poke, Snowy Heron, etc., 171, 172. 
 
 Snow Birds, < >rtolans, etc., 176. 
 Wild Goose, or Canada Goose, 14S, 150. 
 
 Pigeons, or Passenger Pigeons, 172, 173. 
 Swans, 147, 148. 
 Turkey, 158, 159. 
 Willet, or Semi-palmated, Tattler, 167 
 Willow, or White Grouse, 162. 
 Wilson's Snipe, see English Snipe, 164. 
 
 Sandpiper, 169. 
 Wood Tattler, 169. 
 Woodcook, 164. 
 
 Destroyed by Cranes, 171. 
 English, 163. 
 Woodpecker, Golden-Winged, 175, 176. 
 
 Red-Headed. 176. 
 Wood Robin or Hermit-Thrush, 17S 
 Tattler, Green-Rump, etc.. 169. 
 Yellow Birds, or American Goldfinch, 179. 
 Legged Snipe, 167. 
 Legged Greater, 167. 
 Tails, see English Robins, etc., 178. 
 
 FISH 
 
 Albany Beef, see Sturgeon, 223, 224, 226. 
 
 Albicore, see Tunny, 26S, 269, 270. 
 
 Alewive, American, see Spring Herring, 185, 
 
 249,250,297. 
 American Angler, Fishing-Frog, Sea-Devil, 
 
 Monk-Fish, Goose-Fish, 275, 276, 277. 
 American Angler swallowed an Old Wife, 276, 
 
 277. 
 American Butter-Fish, or Spotted Gunnel, 247. 
 Codling, 259. 
 Conger, 261. 
 Hake, 259. 
 Prawns, 305, 306. 
 Argyreoise, Hair-Finned, see Hair-Finned 
 
 Dory, 289. 
 Argyreoise, Rostrated, see Rostrated Dory, 289. 
 Back Shad, 201, 202. 
 
 Balistes, Dusky, see Iron Skin, 291, 292. 
 Banded Drum, or Grunts, 265. 
 
 Ephippus, or Three-Tailed Sheep- 
 head, 257, 25S. 
 Gar, 295. 
 Gurnard, 246. 
 
 Seriole, see Pi lot-Fish, 299. 
 Barb, see King-Fish. 239. 
 Barbel, see Horned Sucker, 296. 
 
 Barracuta, Northern, 292. 
 Bass. Black (fresh-water), 218, 219. 
 (salt-water), 288. 
 Calico, 293. 
 Lake, striped, 260. 
 Little White, see White Perch, 291. 
 Net, and Sea-Dog, 197. 
 not Rock Bass, 186. 
 Otsego, see Otsego Shad-Salmon, 253. 
 Partridge-Tailed, 293, 294. 
 Red, or Corvina, 254. 
 Rock (fresh-water), 293. 
 
 (salt-water), see Striped Bass, 194. 
 Ruddy, see Sea Perch. 240. 
 Sea, 198, 199, 200. 
 Speckled, 293, 294 
 Strawberry. 293, 294. 
 Striped, Streaked Bass, Rock-Fish, or 
 
 Rock Bass, 1S5. 194. 195, 196, 197, 198. 
 Striped, an intemperate. 196. 
 and Eagle, a fight, 197. 
 or Twalft (Dutch Laws), 198. 
 White Lake, or White Bass, 260. 
 Bay of Fundy Flounder, 257. 
 Bayonet Fish, Giant, or Broad-Scaled Herring, 
 273. 
 
442 
 
 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 Bay Shiner, 248. 
 
 Beach, or Dipper Clam, 310. 
 
 Bergall, Blue Percb, Conner, Chogset, 245. 
 
 Big-eyed Pike, 203. 
 
 Porgee, Porgy, Scup, or Scapang, 242. 
 Shrimp, 305. 
 Bill-Fish, Northern, 295. 
 
 see Gar, 295. 
 Black Backs, 186. 
 
 Eared Pond-Fish, 250. 
 
 (fresh-water) Bass, or Black Perch, 218, 
 
 219. 
 Headed Dace, Lake Dace, or Lake Chub, 
 
 297. 
 Grunts, see Black Triple-tail, 257. 
 Fish, or Tautog, 185, 206. 
 Fish's Heart, remarkable muscular mo- 
 tion, 206. 
 Perch, or Black Bass (salt-water), 186, 
 
 283. 
 Sheepheads, see Malashea:anay, 266. 
 Triple-tail, Tviple-tail Perch, or Black 
 Grurfts, 257. 
 Bladder-Fish, see Toad-Fish, 251. 
 Blepharis, Hair-finned, 2S9, 290. 
 Blenny, see Thick-lipped Eel-pout, 260, 261. 
 Blue-Fish, or Snapping Mackerel, 206, 207, 208. 
 Incident of the voraciousness of the, 
 207. 
 Blue Perch, 245. 
 
 Sucker, 296. 
 Blunt-nosed Shiner, or Bristly Dory, 289. 
 Bonita, or Striped Bonita, 258, 259. 
 Bony-Fish, see Mossbonker, 250. 
 Bottle-headed Dolphin, 271. 
 Bram, see Golden Mullet, 267. 
 Branded Corvina, 254. 
 
 Ephippus, 257. 
 Bream, Variegated, 297. 
 Bregals, 185. 
 Brilliant Chubsucker, or Chub of New York, 
 
 296. 
 Broad-Finned Sword, or Needle-Fish, 273, 274. 
 Scaled Herring, 273. 
 Shiner, 247. 
 Sting Kay, 229. 
 Brook Trout, or Speckled Trout, 187, 236, 237, 
 
 238, 239. 
 Brook Trout, large specimens of, 237, 238. 
 Brown Pilot- Fish, 299. 
 
 Back Turtle, 186. 
 Buffalo Bony Pike, see Fresh-water Gar, 278. 
 Bull-Head. Common, or Sculpin, 247. 
 Butter-Fish, see Harvest-Fish, 247. 
 
 American, or Spotted Gunnel, 
 
 247. 
 taken in an Oyster, 247. 
 Calico Bass, Speckled, or Partridge-Tailed Bass, 
 
 293, 294. 
 Caranx, Southern, 293. 
 
 Yellow, 293. 
 Carp, or Common Carp, 242, 290, 291. 
 
 Gilt-Sucking, see Golden Mullet, 267. 
 Carp, 186. 
 Cat-Fish, & jugged. 264, 265. 
 
 Horned Pout, Minister, 185, 248, 249. 
 
 Lake, large, 266, 267. 
 
 Nesro fisherman who catches nothing 
 
 but, 249. 
 Salt-water. 266. 
 Chequet, see Weak-Fish, 213. 
 Chogset, see Bergall, 245. 
 Chub, Lake, see Black-Headed Dace, 297. 
 Mackerel, 244. 
 
 Chub of New York, see Brilliant Chubsucker, 
 
 185, 296. 
 Clams ashore, caused from a gale, 310. 
 Beach, 310. 
 Dipper, 310. 
 Giant, 309. 
 various kinds, 1S5. 
 Hard, 308. 
 Long, 309. 
 Piss, 309. 
 Rat-catching, 309. 
 Razor, 310. 
 Soft, 309. 
 Clear-nosed Ray, 228. 
 Coal-Fish, see Pollack, 262. 
 Cockles, 311. 
 
 Cod-Fish, 183, 185, 214, 215, 216, 217. 
 Large, 215. 
 
 Sounds and Tongues, 215. 
 When first discovered at Sandy 
 Hook, 216. 
 Codling, see American Codling, 259. 
 
 Spotted, 292. 
 Common Bull-Head, or Sculpin, 247. 
 Eel, 240. 
 Herring, 249. 
 Mackerel, 243. 
 Shad-Salmon, Herring-Salmon, or 
 
 White Fish of the Lakes, 253. 
 Sucker, 248. 
 Conger Eel, or American Conger, 261. 
 
 Large, taken, 261. 
 Conk, see Snails, 185. 
 Conner (or Cunner), see Bergall, 245. 
 Corvina, see Red Bass, 254. 
 Cow-nosed Ray, 229. 
 Crab, Common, 185, 303. 
 Cow, 304. 
 
 Extraordinary, 304 
 Fiddler, or, 305. 
 Horse-foot, 304. 
 How to handle the, 308. 
 King, 304. 
 Lady, 305. 
 Large, taken, 304. 
 Oyster, 305. 
 Sand, 305. 
 Shedder, 304. 
 Soft, or Soft-shelled, 304 
 Soldier, 305. 
 Spotted, 305. 
 Cramp-Fish, see Torpedo, 282. 
 Cusk (fresh -water), 265. 
 
 (salt-water), 258. 
 Dace, Black-Headed, 297. 
 
 Horned, see Horned Sucker, 296. 
 Lake, 297. 
 Red, 296, 297. 
 Shining, 297. 
 
 Variegated Bream, see 297. 
 White, 297. 
 Devil-Fish, see Vampyre of the Ocean, 282. 
 Dipper-Clam, see Beach-Clam, 310. 
 Dog-Fish, 185, 231, 232. 
 
 Skins, 232. 
 Dollar-Fish, see Hair-Finned Dory, 289. 
 Dolphins, 186, 271, 272. 
 
 Bottled-Headed, 271. 
 The Mackerel's great enemy, 243. 
 Dory, Bristly, see Blunt-Nosed Shiner, 289. 
 Hair-Finned, 289. 
 or John Dory, 28S, 2S9. 
 Drum-Fish Banded, or Grunter, 185, 265 
 Black, 263, 264 
 
INDEX. 
 
 443 
 
 Drum-Fish, Large hauls of, 263, 264. 
 
 Red, 263, 264. 
 Dunfish, see Codfish, 214. 
 Dusky Balistes, or Iron-Skin, 291, 292. 
 Eel, Common, 185, 240, 241. 242. 
 
 Conger, or American Conger, 261. 
 Pout, Thick -Lipped, or Blenny, 260, 261. 
 Large, 241, 242. 
 Sea, 268. 
 Silver, 240. 
 Skins, 242. 
 English Turcot, 256. 
 Ephippus, Banded, or Three-Tailed Sheephead, 
 
 257, 258. 
 Fall Herring, or Shad Herring, 226, 227. 
 
 Mackerol, 244. 
 Fiddler, or Soldier Crab, 185, 305. 
 Fish as food, etc., 180, 181. 
 Bait, see Shrimp, 305. 
 Chowder, how made, 216. 
 Culture, 187. 
 
 Dead, found on the shore, 188, 189. 
 Found in New York and Philadelphia, 
 
 183, 184, 185, 1S6. 
 Fresh, preserving, 319. 
 Game, Laws to protect, 187, 188. 
 How to judge, 1SS. 
 Large and abundant, 190. 
 Large and scarce, 251. 
 Miraculous draught of, 195. 
 Phenomenon among the, 188, 189, 
 Premiums offered for certain kinds of, 
 
 183. 
 Preparing, for cooking, 318. 
 Preserving Fresh, 319. 
 Small and abundant, 236. 
 Small and scarce, 288. 
 Fishing-Frog, see American Angler, 275. 
 Fiat-Fish, Pigmy, see Sand-Flounder, 245. 
 
 New York, see Winter Flounder, 
 
 209, 245. 
 Toothed, 210. 
 Flounder, Bay of Fundy, see French Turbot, 
 257. 
 Fillets of, 210. 
 Long -Toothed, 293. 
 Oblong, or Spotted, 185, 209. 
 Sand, or Pigmy Fiat-Fish, 245. 
 Sea, see Spotted Turbot, 255. 
 Spotted, 209, 293. 
 
 Summer, see Toothed Fiat-Fish, 210. 
 Watery, see Spotted Turbot, 255. 
 Winter, or New York Fiat-Fish, 245. 
 Fluke, see Oblong Flounder, 209, 210. 
 Flying-Fish, or New York Flying-Fish, 300. 
 French Turbor, or Bay of Fundy Flounder, 257. 
 Fresh-Water Cusk, 265. 
 
 Gar, Buffalo, Bony Pike, or Lake 
 
 Bill-Fish, 278, 279. 
 Muscles, 311. 
 Shiner, 248. 
 
 Terrapin, or Wood Terrapin, 317. 
 Frogs, Edible, 318. 
 
 Gibbous Green, 318. 
 Frost-Fish, or Tom-Cod, 240. 
 Game Fish, Laws to protect, 187, 188. 
 Gar, Fresh-water, Buffalo Bony Pike Lake 
 
 Bill-Fish, 278, 279. 
 Gar, Northern, see Northern Bill-Fish, 295. 
 
 Sea Pike, Bill-Fish, Banded Gar-Fish, 
 185, 295. 
 Giant Clam, 309. 
 
 or Broad-Scaled Herring, see Bayonet- 
 Fish, 273. 
 
 Gibbous Green Frogs, 318. 
 
 Golden Mullet, Mullet-Sucker, Eed Horse, or 
 
 Brani, 267, 26S. 
 Gold Fish, Curious varieties, 300. 
 Goody, see Lafayette Fish, 242. 
 Goose-Fish, see American Angler, 275. 
 Glass-Eyed Pike, 208. 
 Gray Perch, 291. 
 Grav Pike Perch, 209. 
 Great Sun-Fish, or Head-Fish, 280, 281. 
 
 very large, taken, 280, 281. 
 Green-Fish, see Blue-Fish, 206. 
 Turtle, 185, 312, 313. 
 
 the young hatched in New 
 York, 313. 
 Groper, see Red-Groper, 261. 
 Grunter, see Sea-Robin, 246. 
 Grunts, see Banded Drum, 265. 
 
 Speckled, see Speckled Red-Mouth, 
 290. 
 Gudgeons, 186. 
 Gunnel, Spotted, see American Butter-Fish, 
 
 247, 308. 
 Gurnard, Banded, see Sea-Robin, 246. 
 Haddock, 185, 217. 
 Hair-Finned Blepharis, 289, 290. 
 
 Dory, or Hair-Finned Argyneoise, 
 289. 
 Hake, American, Stock-Fish, or Poor-John's, 
 259, 260. 
 
 see American Codling, 259. 
 Halibut, 217, 218. 
 
 Large, 218. 
 Hard Clams, Hard-Shelled Clams, Round 
 
 Clams, or Quahaug, 308, 309. 
 Hard-Heads, see Mossbonker, 250. 
 Harvest-Fish, or Broad Shiner, 247. 
 
 Long-Finned, 290. 
 Hawk's-Bill Turtle, 186, 314. 
 Head-Fish, see Great Sun-Fish, 280. 
 Herring, Burlington, The manner of prepar- 
 ing, 227, 228. 
 Common, 185, 249. 
 Fall, or Shad, 226, 227. 
 Lake, see Sisco, 298. 
 Large catch of, 250. 
 Pie, annually presented, 227. 
 River, see River Moon-Eye, 298. 
 Round, see Saury, 298. 
 Salmon, 353. 
 Slender, 297. 
 Spotted Thread, 297. 
 Spring, or American Alewives*. 249 
 250, 297. 
 Hickory Shad, see Spring Herring,186, 249. 
 Holebut, 185. 
 Horn-Fish, 1S6. 
 
 Horned-Pout, see Cat-Fish, 248. 
 Horned-Sucker, Horned-Dace, or Barbel, 296. 
 Horse-Foot Crab, or King-Crab, 304, 305. 
 Horse-Mackerel, large, taken, 186, 269, 270. 
 Iron-Skin, see Dusky Balistes, 291. 
 Jack, see Pickerel, 210, 211. 
 Jelly-Fish, see Lump-Fish, 277, 278. 
 John Dory, see Dory, 288. 
 Killi-Fish, Striped, 300. 
 Killey-Fish, 185. 
 King-Crab, see Horse-Foot Crab, 304, 305. 
 
 Fish, Barb, or Whiting, 185, 329. 
 Lady-Crab, 305. 
 Lafayette-Fish, Sea-Chub, Spot, Goody, River 
 
 Porgees, 242. 
 Lake Bill-Fish, see Fresh-water Gar, 278. 
 Cat-Fish, 266, 267. 
 
444 
 
 THE MAKKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 Lake Chub, or Dace, 297. 
 Herring, 298. 
 
 Lawyer, see "Western Mud-Fish, 278. 
 Moon-Eye, 299. 
 Salmon, see Lake Trout, 254. 
 Salmon, first brought to the New York 
 
 market, 186. 
 Shad, see "White-Fish, 212. 
 Sheephead, 266. 
 
 Trout, or Lake Salmon, 187, 254. 
 Lamper-Eels, 185. 
 
 Lamprey-Eels, see Sea-Lamprey, 219. 
 Lampugus, Spotted, 275. 
 Large-Scaled Sucker, or Blue-Sucker, 296. 
 Leather-Turtle, 315. 
 Lineated Puffer, 274, 292. 
 Ling, 262. 
 
 Lobsters, Bluebacks, 302, 303. 
 Kevenge, 301. 
 
 Yarieties, and large, 185, 301, 302, 303. 
 Logger-Head Turtle, 185, 314. 
 Long-Clams, see Soft-Clams, 309, 310. 
 Finned Harvest-Fish, 290. 
 Toothed Flounder, or Spotted Flounder, 
 293 
 Lump-Fish, or Jelly-Fish, 277, 278. 
 Mackerel, Blue, see Blue-Fish, 206. 
 
 Common, see Spring, 183, 185, 243. 
 Fall, 244. 
 
 Horse, see Tunny, 268, 269. 
 Large catch of, 244. 
 Spanish, 193. 
 
 Spring, or Common, 243, 244. 
 Thimble-Eyed Chub, or Fall, 244. 
 Yellow, see Yellow Caranx, 293. 
 Mackinaw Trout, or Salmon, or Namaycush. 255. 
 Malashegany, or Black Sheephead, 266. 
 Manhaden, 186. 
 Marsovius, see Porpoise, 230. 
 Masealonge or Muskellonge, 187, 204, 205, 206. 
 
 Taking of the, 204, 205. 
 Menhagen, see Mossbonker, 250. 
 Minees, 186. 
 
 Minister, see Cat-Fish, 248. 
 Moon-Eye, Lake, 299. 
 Eiver, 298. 
 Moon-Fish, see Blunt-Nosed Shiner, 289. 
 Monk-Fish, see American Angler, 275. 
 MonkeyFish, see Dory, 288. 
 Mossbonker, Menhagen, Panhagen, "White-Fish, 
 
 Bony-Fish, Hard-Heads, etc., 250, 251. 
 Mud-Shad, 1S6. 
 
 Wallepers, 186. 
 Mullet, 185, 246. 
 
 Golden, Eed-Horse Bram, 267, 268. 
 Sucker, etc., 267, 268. 
 Muscles, 185, 311. 
 
 Fresh- Water, 311. 
 Muskellonge, see Masealonge. 204. 
 Namaycush, see Mackinaw Trout, 255. 
 Needle-Fish, 295, 296. 
 
 Broad-Finned, 273, 274. 
 New York Flying-Fish, 300. 
 Fiat-Fish, 245. 
 Shadine, 297. 
 
 Shiner, or Fresh-water Shiner, 248. 
 Plaice, 256. 
 Sole, 294. 
 Northern Barracuta, 292. 
 
 Bill-Fish, or Northern Gar, 295. 
 Lake Trout, 258. 
 
 Sebastes, Red Sea-Perch, Rosa-Fish. 
 or Sharper, 261, 262. 
 Numb-Fish, see Torpedo, 2S2. 
 
 Oblong-Flounder, Fluke, or Spotted-Flounder, 
 
 209. 
 Ohio Cat-Fish, 186. 
 Oldwives, (Perch), 186. 
 Ohio Salmon, 208. 
 
 Otsego Shad-Salmon, or Otsego Bass, 253, 254. 
 Oyster-bed, discovery of a great, 307,308. 
 Crab, 305. 
 Large, 308. 
 
 Ordinance on the sale of the, 307. 
 Panic, 306, 307. 
 Oysters, various kinds of, 185, 306, 307, 308. 
 Painted Tortoise, 317. 
 Panhagen, see Mossbonker, 250. 
 Partridge-Tail Bass, 293. 
 
 Perch, Black, see Black (Salt-water) Bass, 288. 
 Black, see Black (Fresh-water), 218. 
 Blue, see Bergall, 245. 
 Gray, 291. 
 Gray-Eyed, 209. 
 Golden-Eyed, 293. 
 
 Red Sea, see Northern Sebastes, 261, 262. 
 Rock, 293. 
 
 Sea or Ruddy Bass, 240. 
 Silver, 291. 
 
 Small Black (Fresh- water), 288. 
 Stone, 293. 
 
 Triple-Tail, see Black Triple-tail, 288. 
 White, 291. 
 Yellow, 245. 
 Yellow-Barred, 245. 
 Yellow-Bellied, 297. 
 Yellow Pike, 208. 
 Perriwinkles, see Winkles, 311. 
 Pickerel, Pike, or Jack, 210, 211, 212. 
 
 Brook, 211, 
 Pig-Fish, see Dory, 288. 
 
 see Sea-Robin, 246. 
 Pigmy Fiat-Fish, 245. 
 Pike, 185, 210, 211. 
 
 Big-Eyed, see Yellow Pike Perch, 208,209. 
 Curious incidents relating to the, 211, 212. 
 Glass-Eyed, see Yellow Pike Perch, 2<)S. 
 Of the Lakes, see Yellow Pike Perch, 208, 
 
 209. 
 Sea, see Gar, 295. 
 see Pickerel, 210, 211. 
 Wall-Eyed, see Yellow Pike Perch, ,208, 
 209. 
 Pilot Fish, 299. 
 
 Brown, 299. 
 Piss-Clams, see Soft-Clams, 309. 
 Pissers (Clams), 185. 
 
 Plaice, New York, see Spotted Turbot, 255. 
 Pollack, Black, 262. 
 
 or New York Pollack, 262, 263. 
 Pollock, 185. 
 Pompino, 252, 253. 
 Pond-Fish, Black-Eared, 250. 
 see Sun-Fish, 250. 
 Poor John's, see Hake, 259. 
 Porgee (or Porgy), Big ; Scup, Scapang, 242. 
 River, see Lafayette-Fish, 242. 
 Sand, 245, 246. 
 Porgees, large catch of, 243. 
 Porgeys, 185. 
 Porpoises, 230, 231. 
 
 the taking of, 230, 231. 
 White, 281, 282. 
 Prawns. American Prawns, or Big Shrimp, 185, 
 
 305, 306. 
 Puffer, Lineated. see Rabbit-Fish, 274, 275. 
 
 see Toad-Fish, 251. 
 Pumpkin-Seed, see Sun-Fish, 250. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 445 
 
 Quahaug, see Hard-Clam, 308. 
 Rabbit-Fish or Lineated Puffer, 274, 275, 292. 
 Rare-Fish, see Great Sun-Fish, 280. 
 Eay, Broad-Sting, 1S3, 185, 229. 
 Clear-Nosed, 228. 
 Cow-Nosed, 229. 
 Spotted, 228, 229. 
 Whip-Sting, 229. 
 Eazor-Sheil Clam, 310. 
 Red-Bass, Branded Corvina or Spud, 254. 
 Red-Bellied Terrapin, or Red-Less, 317. 
 
 Dace, Red-Fin, or Rough-Head, 296, 297. 
 Groper, see Groper, 261. 
 Horse, see Golden Mullet, 267. 
 Legs, see Red-Bellied Terrapin, 317. 
 Mouth Speckled, 290. 
 Mouth Yellow-Finned, 290. 
 Sea-Perch, 261. 
 Rempora, or Shark-Sucker, 299, 300. 
 
 White-Tailed, 299. 
 Ribbon-Fish, or Silvery Hair-Tail, 274. 
 River Moon-Eye, or River Herring, 298. 
 
 Porgee, 242. 
 Roach, 186. 
 Rock-Bass, Rock-Perch, Stone-Perch, or 
 
 Golden-Eyed Perch, 293. 
 Rock, Rock-Fish, see Striped Bass, 194, 195. 
 Round Clams, see Hard Clams, 308. 
 
 Herring, see Saury, 298. 
 Rose-Fish, see"Northern Sebastes, 261. 
 Rostrated Dory, or Rostrated Argyreoise, 289. 
 Rough-Head, see Red Dace, 296. 
 Rudder-Fish, 290. 
 Ruddy Bass, 240. 
 Salmon, 185, 1S6, 190. 
 
 Common Shad, or Herring, 253. 
 First brought to the N. Y. Markets, 186. 
 Found in the Hudson River, 191, 192. 
 Herring, see Common Shad, 253. 
 Lake, see Lake Trout, 254. 
 Mackinaw, see Mackinaw Trout, 255. 
 Ohio, see Yellow Pike Perch, 208, 209. 
 Otsego Shad, or Otsego Bass, 253, 254. 
 Scotch, 190, 191. 
 
 Trout, or Sea Trout, 186, 251, 252. 
 Salt-water Terrapin, 313, 314. 
 
 Trout, 213. 
 Sand-Flounder, or Pigmy Flat-Fish, 245. 
 
 Porgee, 245, 246. 
 Saury, or Round Herring, 298. 
 Saw-Fish, large take, 272, 273. 
 Scapang, see Big Porgee, 242. 
 Scollops, or Scallaps, 185, 310, 311. 
 Sculpin, see Bull-Heads, 247. 
 Sculping, 1S5. 
 Scup, see Big Porgee, 242. 
 Sea-Bass, 185, 198, 199, 200. 
 Cat, see Sea-Wolf, 186, 275. 
 Chub, see Lafayette-Fish, 242. 
 Devil, see American Angler, 275. 
 Eel, 186, 268. 
 Hog, see Porpoises, 230. 
 Lamprey, called Lamprey Eels, 219. 
 Lamprey and Sturgeon, 220. 
 Perch, or Ruddy-Bass, 240. 
 Robin, Banded Gurnard, etc., 246. 
 Serpent captured, 269, 270. 
 Trout, 186, 251. 
 
 Wolf, Sea-Cat, or Tiger-Fish, 275. 
 Sebastes, Northern, Red Sea-Perch, 261 
 Seriole, Banded, 299. 
 Shad 185, tOO. 201, 202, 203, 204. 
 Back, 201, 202. 
 Fishery at the Narrows, New York, 203. 
 
 Shad, Herring, 226. 
 
 Hickory, see Spring Herring, 249. 
 known as Allizes at an early period, 202. 
 Lake, see White-Fish, 212, 213. 
 large quantities taken, 202, 203. 
 Roes.and Melt, 202. 
 very large, 200, 250. ' 
 Shadine, New York, 297, 298. 
 
 Spotted, 297, 298. 
 Shark, attack of a, dreadful fight, 234, 235. 
 Baskinsr, large, 233, 234. 
 Bone, 234 
 Hammer-Head, or Shovel-Nose, 232, 
 
 235, 236. 
 Sucker, see Remora, 299. 
 varieties of the, 186, 232, 233, 234, 235, 
 236. 
 Shark's Flesh, John Josselyn on the, 230. 
 
 Skins used for various purposes, 232. 
 Shedder Crabs, 304. 
 Sheephead, 183, 185, 193, 194. 
 Lake. 266. 
 
 Three-Tailed, see Banded Ephip- 
 pus, 257. 
 Shell-Fish, etc., 301. 
 Shiner, or Bay Shiner, 247, 248. 
 Blunt-nosed, 289. 
 Broad, see Harvest-Fish, 247. 
 New York, or Fresh-water Shiner, 248. 
 Shining Dace, 297. 
 
 Short Sun-Fish, see Great Head-Fish, 280. 
 Shrimp, Big Shrimp, or Prawns, 185, 305. 
 Silver Eel, 240 
 
 Perch, 291. 
 Silvery Hair-tail, see Ribbon-Fish, 274. 
 Sisco, or Sisquette, or Lake Herring, 298. 
 Siskawitz, or Northern Lake Trout, 25S. 
 Skate, Smooth, 183, 185, 229. 
 Skip-Jack, see Blue-Fish, 206. 
 Bonita, 258, 259. 
 Slender Herring, 297. 
 Small Black Bass, or Black Perch (fresh-water), 
 
 288 
 Smelt, 185, 239, 240. 
 Smooth Skate, 229. 
 
 Terrapin, 317. 
 Snapper, or Snapping Turtle, 185, 215, 316. 
 See Northern Sebastes, 261, 262. 
 and Snake, a hard story, 317. 
 Mackerel, see Blue-Fish, 206. 
 Snapping-Turtle and Deer, 115, 116. 
 
 Hen-Hawk, 316, 317. 
 Snails, 185, 311, 312. 
 
 Soft Clams, Long Clams, Piss Clams. 309, 310. 
 Crabs, or Soft-shelled Crabs, 304 
 Shelled Turtle, 314 
 Soldier-Crab, see Fiddler, 305. 
 Sole, or Soal, or New York Sole, 185, 294. 
 Sounds and Tongues, see Cod-Fish, 215. 
 Southern Caranx, 293. 
 Spanish Mackerel, 185, 193. 
 Speckled Bass, 293. 
 
 Grunts, 290. 
 Red-mouth, 290. 
 Trout, 236. 
 Spot, see Lafayette-Fish, 242. 
 Spotted Codling, 292. 
 
 Cybum, see Spanish Mackerel, 193. 
 
 Flounder, 293. 
 
 Gunnel, 247. 
 
 Lampugus, 275. 
 
 Ray, 22S, 229. 
 
 or Sand-Crab, 305. 
 
 Shadine, or New York Snaaine, 297, 298. 
 
m 
 
 THE MABKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 Spotted, or Speckled Turtle, 318. 
 
 Thread Herring, or Thread-Fish, 297. 
 Turbot, etc., 255. 
 Spring Herring, or American Alewive, 249, 250. 
 Mackerel, or Common Mackerel, 243, 
 244 
 Spud, see Ked Bass, 254. 
 Squeteaque, see Weak-Fish, 213. 
 Stinkards, see Harvest-Fish, 247. 
 Stinkpots, Turtle, 186. 
 Stock-Fish, see Hake, 259. 
 Stone Perch, 293. 
 
 Strawberry Bass, see Calico Bass, 294. 
 Striped, or Streaked Bass, Kock, Kock-Fish, 
 
 Rock-Bass, 194, 195, 196, 197, 198. 
 Striped Bass, a tippling, 196. 
 
 and a frightened beauty, 197. 
 Bonita, 258. 
 Sturgeon (" Albany Beef"), 185, 223, 224. 
 Pickled, 224, 225, 226. 
 Sea-Lampreys and the, 220. 
 The boat-parties and, 225, 226. 
 Flesh of, 223, 224. 
 Very large, 224. 
 Sucker, Blue, see Large-scaled Sucker, 296. 
 Common, 185, 186, 248. 
 Horned, 296. 
 Large-scaled, 296. 
 Summer Flounder, 210. 
 Sun-Fish, Great, or Head-Fish, 280, 281. 
 
 Pond-Fish, or Pumpkin-seed, 185, 250. 
 Susquehannah Turtle, 186. 
 Swallow-tailed Cat-Fish, 186. 
 Sword-Fish, 220, 221, 222, 223. 
 
 Broad-Finned, 273, 274. 
 Called Sea-Warrior, 221. 
 Catching the, 222, 223. 
 Great power on ship timber, 221, 
 
 222. 
 Large, 221. 
 Tailors, see Blue-Fish, 206. 
 Tarrapins, 185. 
 Tautog. see Black-Fish, 206. 
 Terrapin, fresh-water, 317. 
 Red-Bellied, 317. 
 Salt-water, 313, 314, 317. 
 Smooth Wood, 317. 
 Two-Headed, 314. 
 Thick-Lipped Eel- Pout, or Blenny, 260. 
 Thimble-Eyed Mackerel, Chub, or Fall Mack- 
 erel, 244. 
 Thread-Fish, see Spotted Thread-Herring, 297. 
 Three-Tailed Sheephead, 257, 258. 
 Thurry, see Tunny, 268, 270. 
 Tiger-Fish, see Sea- Wolf, 275. 
 Toad-Fish, Bladder-Fish, or Puffer, 251. 
 Tom-Cod, see Frost-Fish, 185, 240. 
 Toothed Fiat-Fish, or Summer Flounder, 210. 
 Torpedo, Cramp-Fish, or Numb-Fish, 282. 
 Torpon, see Bayonet-Fish, 2T3. 
 Tortoise, Painted, 317. 
 Triple-Tail Perch, 207. 
 Trout, Brook, or Speckled, 185, 236, 237, 238, 
 
 Trout, curious incident between a Duck and, 
 
 238, 239. 
 Trout, Lake, or Lake Salmon, 254. 
 
 Mackinaw, or Mackinaw Salmon, 255. 
 Northern Lake, see Siskawitz. 258. 
 Salmon, or Sea-Trout, 251, 252. 
 Salt-water, see Weak-Fish, 213, 214. 
 Truter, see Bottle-Headed Dolphin, 271. 
 Tunny, or Horse-Mackerel, 268, 269. 
 Turbot, or English Turbot, 256. 
 
 French, or Bay of Fundy Flounder, 
 
 257. 
 Spotted New York Plaice, etc., 209, 
 255. 
 Turtle, Chicken, 312. 
 
 Club, the Turtler of the, 312. 
 Green, 312. 
 Hawk's Bill, 314. 
 Leather. 315. 
 Turtles, Loggerhead, 314. 
 
 Mock, and the knowing politician, 
 
 313. 
 Snapping, 315, 316. 
 Soft-Shelled, 314. • 
 Spotted, or Speckled, 318. 
 Vampyre of the Ocean, or Devil-Fish, 282, 283. 
 
 torn to pieces, 283. 
 Variegated Bream, Dace, or Yellow-bellied 
 
 Perch, 297. 
 Watery Flounder, 255. 
 Water Turtle (red belly). 186. 
 Weak-Fish, or Salt-Water Trout, 185, 213, 214. 
 Weesick, see Fall Herring, 226. 
 Western Mud-Fish, or Lake Lawyer, 278. 
 Whale, varieties of, 284, 285, 286, 2S7, 288. 
 Greenland, 2S5, 2S6. 
 Large Stranded, 286, 287, 288. 
 Razor-Back, 286. 
 
 White, see White Porpoise, 281, 282. 
 young, driven ashore, 286. 
 Whip-Sting Ray, 229. 
 White-bellied Cat-Fish. 186. 
 Dace, or Shiner, 297. 
 Fish, see Menhaden, etc., 243, 250. 
 of the Lakes, 253. 
 or Lake Shad, 212, 213. 
 large catch of, 213. 
 Lake Bass, or White Bass, 260. 
 Perch, Gray Perch, etc., 185, 291. 
 Porch, large haul of, 291. 
 Porpoise, or Whale, 281. 
 Tailed Remora. 299, 300. 
 Whiting, see King-Fish, 239. 
 Wilks, see Winkles, 311. 
 Winkles, or Periwinkles, 311. 
 Winter Flounders, etc., 245. 
 Yellow-Bellied Perch, 297. 
 
 Caranx, or Yellow Mackerel, 293. 
 
 Finned Red-Mouth, 290. 
 
 Perch, or Yellow-Barred Perch, 185, 
 
 245. 
 Pike Perch, Glass-Eyed Pike, Big- 
 Eyed Pike, Pike of the Lakes, or Ohio 
 Salmon, 208, 209. 
 
 VEGETABLES, POT AND MEDICINAL HERBS, POT- 
 PLANTS, ROOTS, Etc. 
 
 Alecost, see Costmary, 361. 
 Alexanders, or Alisanders, 
 
 Angelica Garden, 858. 
 i Anise-seed, 358. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 U7 
 
 Artichokes, Jerusalem, 322, 323. 
 
 various kinds of, 322, 323. 
 Asparagus, varieties of, 323. 
 Balm, 358. 
 
 Basil, varieties of, 358. 
 Beans, Lima, 323, 324. 
 
 Shell, 324. 
 
 Strins, or Snap, 323, 324. 
 
 various kinds of, 323, 824. 
 Bene Plant, 358, 359. 
 Beet-Greens, 324 
 Beets, varieties of, 324. 
 
 Young, 324. 
 Birch, the various uses of, 359. 
 Bloodroot, 359. 
 
 Boneset, or Thoroughwort, 359. 
 Borage, 359. 
 
 Borecole, or Green-Curled Kale, 324, 325. 
 Brocoli, varieties of, 325. 
 Brook-Lime, 359. 
 Brussel-Sprouts, 325. 
 Burdock, 359. 
 
 Burnet, or Garden Burnet, 359, 360. 
 Cabbage, large, 326. 
 
 various kinds, 325, 326. 
 Turnip, see Kohl Rabi, 334. 
 Calabash, see Gourd, 333. 
 Calamus, or Sweet Flag, 360. 
 Camomile, see Chamomile, 360. 
 Capers, 360. 
 
 Capsicum, see Peppers, 826, 341. 
 Caraway, 360. 
 Cardoons, 326. 
 
 Carolina Potatoes, see Sweet Potatoes, 345. 
 Carrots, varieties of. 327. 
 Catnip, or Catmint, 860. 
 Cauliflower, varieties of, 327. 
 Cavish, Scavish, or Scabious, 327. 
 Cedar Berries, see Juniper Berries, 362, 363. 
 Celeriac, or Turnip -rooted Celery, 327. 
 Celery, Turnip-rooted, 327. 
 
 varieties of, 32S. 
 Chamomile, see Camomile, 360. 
 Chard, or Swiss Chard, 328. 
 Chervil, or Cicely the Sweet, 360. 
 Parsnip, 340. 
 Turnip-rooted, 340. 
 Chickory, or Wild Endive, 328, 329, 360, 361. 
 Chinese Potato, or Japanese Yam, 357. 
 Cicely the Sweet, see Chervil, 360. 
 Cives, Chives, or Shives, 329. 
 Clary, 361. 
 
 Coleworts, or Collards, 330. 
 Coltsfoot, 361. 
 Comfrey, 361 
 
 Common Mint, see Spear Mint, 364. 
 Coriander, 361. 
 
 Corn (sweet), see Indian Corn, 330, 331. 
 Corn Salad, Lamb's Lettuce, or Fetticus, 830. 
 Costmary, or Alecost, 361. 
 Cowslip, see Marigold, 363. 
 Cress, Early Hedge, 330. 
 
 Indian, 330. 
 
 varieties of, 330. 
 
 Small Water, 330. 
 
 Winter, 330. 
 Cucumber, Jamaica, see Gherkins, 332. 
 
 varieties of, 330, 331. 
 Dandelion, 331, 332. 
 Dill, 361. 
 Dock, Horse, 331. 
 
 Patience, 331. 
 
 Yellow, 331. 
 
 Dragon's Wort, see Tarragon, 366. 
 Egg Plant, 332. 
 Elecampane, 361. 
 Endive, or Succory, 332. 
 
 Wild, see Chicory, 328. 
 Eschallot, see Shallot, 350. 
 Fetticus, see Corn Salad, 330. 
 Fennel, varieties of the, 862. 
 Flag Onion, see Leek, 335. 
 Garden Angelica, 358. 
 
 Burnet, see Burnet, 359. 
 Garlic, 332. 
 
 German Eampion, or Evening Primrose, 348. 
 Gherkins, or Jamaica Cucumber, 332, 333. 
 Globe Artichoke, 322. 
 Gourd, or Calabash, 333. 
 Green Mint, see Spear Mint, 364. 
 Guinea-Squash, see Egg-Plant, 332. 
 Gumbo, see Okra, 338. 
 Hoarhound, 362. 
 Hops, 362. 
 Horse Radish, 333. 
 
 Indian Bread, see Tuckahoe, 356. 
 Corn, or Maize. 333, 334 
 Cress, or Nasturtium, 330. 
 Japan Squash, 352. 
 Japanese Yam, 357. 
 Jerusalem Artichoke, 322, 323. 
 Juniper Berries, 362. 
 Kale, Egyptian, see Kohl Rabi, 334 
 Green Curled, see Borecole, 334 
 Sea, 350. 
 Kohl Rabi, Turnip-rooted Cabbage, or Dutch 
 
 Turnip, 334, 335. 
 Lamb's Quarter, 335. 
 Lavender, 363. 
 Leek, or Flag Onion, 335. 
 Lentils, 335. 
 Lettuce, Lamb's, 6ee Corn Salad, 330. 
 
 varieties of, 335. 
 Licorice, or Liquorice, 363. 
 Lovage, 363. 
 
 Love-Apple, see Tomato, 353. 
 Maize, see Indian Corn, 333. 
 Mangel- Wurtzel, 336. 
 Marjoram, Sweet, 363. 
 Marsh-Mallow, 363. 
 
 Marigold, 363. 
 Martynia, 336. 
 
 Mascul-Plant, see Morel, 836. 
 Medicinal, and other Plants, 358. 
 Mint, Common, 363, 864 
 Green, 363, 364. 
 Pennyroyal, 363, 364 
 Pepper, 363, 364 
 Spear, 363, 364 
 varieties of, 363, 364. 
 Milk-Weed, or Milk- Vetch, 336. 
 Morel, Morill, or Mascul-Plant, 336, 337, 
 
 354 
 Mushrooms, and how to judge them, 337, 338. 
 
 quick and large growth, 388. 
 Mustard, varieties of, 838. 
 Nasturtium, or Indian Cress, 338. 
 Okra, or Gumbo, 338, 339. 
 Onions, a law on the weight of a rope of, 339. 
 Flag, see Leek, 334 
 large, 339, 340. 
 rope, or string of, 339. 
 varieties of, 339. 
 Orach, or Orach e, 340. 
 Oyster-Plant, Black, see Scorzonera, 350. 
 ' see Salsify, 341, 349. 
 
448 
 
 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 Oyster- iant, Spanish, see Scolymus, 349. 
 Parslane, see Purslain, 347. 
 Parsley, varieties of, 340. 
 Parsnips, varieties of, 340. 
 
 Chervil, or Turnip-rooted Chervil. 340. 
 Patience Dock, 331. 
 Peas, varieties of, 340, 341. 
 Pennyroyal Mint, 363, 364. 
 Pepper- Grass, see Garden-Cress, 330. 
 
 Mint, 363, 364. 
 Peppers, or Capsicum, varieties of, 341. 
 Pie-Plant, see Ehubarb, 341, 348. 
 Pigeon-Berries, see Poke-Berries, 364 
 Pig- Weed. 341, 342. 
 Poke, or Poke-Weed, 342. 
 
 Berries, or Pigeon-Berries, 364 
 Potatoes, varieties of, 342, 343, 344. 
 Bermuda, large, 343. 
 Chinese, see Japanese Yams, 35T. 
 Sweet, or Carolina, 345, 
 Pot-Herbs, 358. 
 
 Plants and Boots, 415, 416. 
 Pumpkins, varieties of, 345, 346. 
 
 King of the, custom of Paris, 347. 
 Meal, 346. 
 Purslane, or Parslain, 347. 
 Eadish, Horse, 333. 
 Radishes, varieties of, 347, 348. 
 Rainpion, 348. 
 
 German, 348. 
 Eape, 348. 
 
 Easpberry Tomato, see Vegetable Cherry, 892. 
 Ehubarb, or Pie-Plant, varieties of, 348, 349. 
 
 leaves poisonous, 349. 
 Eocket, or Eoquette, 364. 
 Eoot of Scarcity, see Mangel-Wurtzel, 336. 
 Eoots and Pot-Plants, 415, 416. 
 Eosemary, varieties of, 364. 
 Eue, 364 365. 
 
 Eutabaga, or Eussian Turnip, 356. 
 Sage, varieties of, 365. 
 Salsify, Oyster-Plant, or Vegetable Oyster, 
 
 Samphire, or Sea-Fennel, 365. 
 
 Sassafras, 365. 
 
 Savory, varieties of, 365. 
 
 Savoy Cabbage, 325, 326. 
 
 Scaroll, see Endive, 332. 
 
 Scavish, see Cavish, 327. 
 
 Scolymus, or Spanish Oyster-Plant, 349, 350. 
 
 Scorzonera, or black Oyster-Plant, 350 
 
 Sea-Fennel, see Samphire, 365. 
 
 Kale, 350. 
 Shallot, or Eschallot, 350. 
 Shepherd Sprouts, 350. 
 Shives, see Cives, 329. 
 Skirret, 350, 351. 
 
 Sorrel, varieties of, 351. 
 
 Southern- wood, 365. 
 
 Spear-Mint, Green Mint, or Common Mint, 
 
 363, 364. 
 Spinach, or Spinage, 351, 352. 
 Sprouts, Shepherd, 350. 
 Spruce, Black, or Double Spruce, 365. 
 Squash, Boston Marrow, 352. 
 Custard, 352. 
 
 Guinea, see Egg-Plant, 332. 
 Japan, 352. 
 Mammoth, 352. 
 Turkey Cap, 352. 
 Valparaiso, 352. 
 Stirtion, see Nasturtium, 338. 
 Succory, see Endive, 332. 
 Sumach, or Smooth Sumach, 366. 
 Sweet Corn, see Indian Corn, 353. 
 
 Flag, see Calamus, 360. 
 Sweet Marjoram, 363. 
 
 Potatoes, varieties of, 345, 35a 
 Large growth of, 345. 
 Swiss Chards, see Chards, 328. 
 Talta-ruben, or German Turnip, 353. 
 Tansey, 366. 
 
 Tarragon, or Dragon's- wort, 366. 
 Thoroughwort, see Boneset, 359. 
 Thyme, Common and Lemon, 366. 
 Tomatoes, Varieties of, 353. 
 Truffles, and the hunting for them, 353, 354. 355. 
 
 356. 
 Tuberous-rooted Oxalis, 351. 
 Sorrel, 351. 
 Tuckahoe, or Indian Bread, 356. 
 Turnip or Turnep, 356. 
 
 Cabbage, or Dutch, see Kohl Eabi, 834 
 German, see Talta-ruben, 353. 
 Eutabaga, 356. 
 Eooted Celery, 327. 
 
 Chervil, see Parsnip Chervil, 340. 
 Turnips, or Turneps, varieties of, 356, 357. 
 Vegetable Cherry, Ground Cherry, etc., 392, 393. 
 Gooseberry, 393. 
 Marrow, 357. 
 Oyster, see Salsify, 349. 
 Plants, 820. 
 Supplies, 321, 322. 
 Vetch-Milk, or Milk-weed, 336. 
 Watercress, small, 330. 
 Wild-Endive, see Chicory, 328. 
 Winter Cress, 330. 
 
 Wormwood, or Common Wormwood, 366. 
 Yam, 357. 
 
 Japanese, see Chinese Potato, 357. 
 Yellow Dock, see Dock, 331. 
 Young Beets, 324. 
 
 FRUITS AND NUTS. 
 
 Almonds, Earth, see Ground-Nuts, 397. 
 
 varieties of, 394 
 Apples, for Fall or Autumn use, 369, 370. 
 
 for Summer use, 369. 
 
 for Winter and Spring use, 370. 
 
 varieties of, 369, 370, 371. 
 
 very large, 371. 
 Apricot, varieties of the, 371. 
 American Medlar, see Persimmon, 386. 
 Bananas, varieties of, 371. 
 Barberries, Berberries, or Pepperidge Bush 
 Berries, 371,372. 
 
 Beach Plum of Sand Plum, 372. 
 Beech -Nuts, or Beech-Mast, 394 
 Bilberries, 372. 
 Bitter-Nut, Hickories, 398. 
 Blackberries, varieties of, 372. 373. 
 Black Currants, 375. 
 
 Black Gumberries, Sour Gumberries, Tupelo 
 or Pepperidge-Berries, 373. ' 
 
 Black Walnuts, 395. 
 Blueberries, see Whortleberries, 393. 
 Brazil Nuts, 395. 
 Buckeyes, see Horse-Chestnuts, 398. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 449 
 
 Buffalo- Berry, see Shepardia, 373, 390. 
 Batter-Nats, White Walnuts, or Oil-Nuts, 395. 
 Cashew-Nuts, 395, 396. 
 
 Checker- Berries, see Wintergreen Berries, 394. 
 Cherries, varieties of, 373, 374. 
 
 Wild. 393. 
 Chestnuts, varieties of, 396. 
 
 Dwarf, see Chinquapin Nuts, 396. 
 Chinquapin Nuts, or Dwarf Chestnuts, 396. 
 Chufa, see Ground-Nuts, 397. 
 Citron, 374. % 
 
 Cocoa-Nut, 396. 
 Crab-Apples, varieties of, 370. 
 Cranberries, varieties of, 374, 375. 
 Currants, Black, 375. 
 Dried, 375. 
 varieties of, 875. 
 Custard-Apple, see Paw-Paw, 375, 384 
 Dates, their cultivation in North America, 375. 
 Dewberries, see Blackberries, 372, 375. 
 Drams, see Black Gumberries. 373. 
 Dried Currants, 375. 
 Earth Almonds, see Ground-Nuts, 397. 
 Earth-Nuts, see Pea-Nuts, 399. 
 Elderberries, 376. 
 
 English Walnuts, see Madeira-Nuts, 398. 
 Figs, 376. 
 Filberts, Wild, see Hazel-Nuts, 379. 
 
 varieties of, 396. 
 Forbidden Fruit, see Grape Fruit, 378. 
 Fox Grapes, or Wild Grapes, 376. 
 Frost Grapes, see Winter Grapes, 393. 
 Fruits, Ripe and Unripe, 36S, 3611. 
 Gooseberries, varieties of, 376, 377. 
 Granadilla, or May-Apple, 377. 
 Grape Fruit, or Forbidden Fruit, 378. 
 Grapes, Fox, or Wild Grapes, 376. 
 
 Frost, see Winter Grapes, 393, 394. 
 Grapes, varieties of, 377, 378. 
 Ground-Berries, see Tallow-Berries, 392. 
 
 Cherry, see Vegetable Cherry, 378. 
 Easpberry-Tomato, 392, 3'.»3. 
 Nuts, Chufa, or Earth- Almonds, 397. 
 Peas, see Pea-Nuts, 399. 
 Gumberries, Black, 873. 
 
 Sour, 373. 
 Hazel-Nuts, or Wild Filberts, 897. 
 Haws, see Thorn-Apple, 392. 
 Hickory-Nuts, Bitter, 398. 
 Hog, 398. 
 Illinois, 400. 
 Mocker-Nuts, 398. 
 Pig, 398. 
 
 Shell-Bark, or Shag-Bark, 398. 
 Swamp, 398. 
 Thick-shelled, 898. 
 varieties of, 397, 39S. 
 Hog-Apple, see Mandrake, 379. 
 Honey-Bean, or Sweet Locust Fruit, 378. 
 Horse-Chestnuts, or Buckeyes. 398. 
 Huckleberries, see Whortleberries, 393. 
 Illinois Cherry, see Wild Plums, 3S8. 
 
 Hickory Nut, see Pecan-Nut, 400. 
 Indian Fig, see Prickly Pear, 3S8. 
 June-Berries, Wild Service-Berries, or May 
 
 Cherries, 37S, 379. 
 Juniper-Berries, 362. 
 Lemons, 379. 
 Limes, 379. 
 
 Madeira, or English Wamuts, 898. 
 May Apple, see Granadilla, 377. 
 see Mandrake, 379. 
 Cherries, see Jane-Berries, 378. 
 
 Mandrake, May Apple, Racoon-Berry, or Wild 
 
 Lemon, 379, 38a 
 Medlar, 380. 
 
 Melons, varieties of, 380, 381, 382. 
 Macker-Nuts, Hickory, 398. 
 Mulberries, varieties of, 382, 383. 
 Musk-Melons, varieties of, and cultivation, 380. 
 Nanny-Berries, see Partridge-Berries, 3S4 
 Nectarines, varieties of, 383. 
 Newtown Pippins, origin of the name, 370. 
 Oil-Nuts, see Butternuts, 395. 
 Olives, 383. 
 
 Oranges, varieties of, 383, SS4 
 Partridge-Berries, or Nanny-Berries, 384. 
 Paw-Paw, or Custard Apple, 884. 
 Peaches, varieties of, 384, 385. 
 Pears, varieties of, 385, 386. 
 Pea-Nuts, Earth-Nuts, Pindar-Nuts, or Ground 
 
 Peas, 399, 400. 
 Pecan-Nuts, 400. 
 Pepper idge- Berries, see Black Gumberries, 373. 
 
 Bush-Berries, see Barberries, 371. 
 Persimmon, or American Medlar, 386, 387. 
 Pig-Nuts, Hickories, 398. 
 Pindar-Nuts, see Pea-Nuts, 399. 
 Pine-Apples, varieties of, 387. 
 Pine-Ivy, see Wintergreen-Berries, 387, 394. 
 Pinkster-Apples, see Mandrake, 379. 
 Plantains, 371, 381, 3S7. 
 Plums, Wild, 387, 388. 
 
 varieties of, 387, 88a 
 Pomegranates, 388. 
 Prickly Pear, or Indian Fig, 388, 389. 
 Prunes, 389. 
 
 Putchamins, see Persimmons, 386. 
 Quince, varieties of the, 389. 
 Racoon-Berry, see Mandrake, 379. 
 Raisins, varieties of, 389. 
 Raspberry Tomato, 392. 
 Raspberries, varieties of, 390. 
 Running Blackberries, see Blackberries, 372,875. 
 Sand-Plums, see Beach-Plum, 372. 
 Seckel Pear, origin of the, 386. 
 Shaddock, 390. 
 
 Shell, or Shag-Barks, Hickory-Nuts, 398. 
 Shepardia. or Buffalo-Berry, 390. 
 Sloes, or Wild Plums, 390. 
 Strawberry Tomato, see Vegetable Cherry, 392. 
 Strawberries, varieties of, 390, 391, 392. 
 Swamp Hickory Nuts, 398. 
 Sweet Locust-Fruit, see Honey Bean, 878. 
 Tallow-Berries, or Ground-Berries, 892. 
 Tamarinds, different kinds of, 392. 
 Tea-Berries, see Wintergreen-Berries, 894 
 Thick-Shelled Hickory-Nuts, 398. 
 Thorn- Apples, or Haws, 392. 
 Tupelo, see Black Gumberries, 873. 
 Twiuberries, see Black Gamberries, 873. 
 Vegetable Cherry, 392, 393. 
 Water-Melons, to judge, 382. 
 
 varieties of, 381, 382. 
 White Walnuts, see Butternuts, 895. 
 Whortleberries, Huckleberries, or Blueberries, 
 
 393, 394 
 Wild Cherries, 393. 
 
 Filberts, see Hazel-Nuts, 397. 
 
 Grapes, see Fox Grapes, 376. 
 
 Lemon, see Mandrakes, 379. 
 
 Plums, several varieties of, 388. 
 
 Service-Berries, see June-Berries, 878. 
 Winter-Grapes, or Frost-Grapes, 393, 894 
 
 Green-Berries, Checker-Berries, Tea* 
 Berries, or Pine-Ivy, 394 
 
450 
 
 THE MABKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 DAIRY AND HOUSEHOLD PRODUCTS. 
 
 Apple-Butter, 410. 
 Sauce, 410. 
 Baskets of various kinds, 412, 413. 
 Beeswax, 407. 
 Birch-Broom, 412. 
 Broom Corn, 411, 412. 
 Bushel, what makes a, 414, 415. 
 
 Baskets, false representations of, 413. 
 Bulrush, or Bushes, 411. 
 Butter, an enormous pyramid of, 401, 402. 
 
 Apple, 410. 
 
 various kinds of, 400, 401, 402. 
 Cat-Tails, or Meadow Flag, 411. 
 Cheese Cream, 402. 
 
 English Dairy, 402. 
 
 mammoth, exhibited at Fair American 
 Institute, 404. 
 
 Pine-Apple, 404. 
 
 various kinds of, 402, 403, 404. 
 Christmas Greens, 412. 
 Churds, 404 
 Duck Eggs, 405, 406 
 Eggs, Powder, 406. 
 Duck, 405. 
 Geese, 406. 
 
 Eggs, Guinea-Hen, 406. 
 
 how to preserve, 406. 
 
 Pea-Fowls. 406. 
 
 Turkeys, 406. 
 Feathers, various kinds of, 411. 
 Goose Eggs, 406. 
 
 Gross, Tare, and Net Weight, 415. 
 Guinea Hen's Eggs, 406. 
 Hominy, various kinds of, 408, 409. 
 Honey, Comb, 406 
 
 Strained, 406, 40T. 
 Hops, varieties of, 362. 
 Lyed Hominy, see Hominy, 408. 
 Maple Molasses, 407. 
 
 Sugar, and the profits of making it, 40T. 
 
 Syrup, 407. 
 Meadow-Flag, see Cat-Tails, 411. 
 Fea-Fowl's Eggs, 406. 
 Pine-Apple Cheese, 404. 
 Bushes, see Bulrush, 411. 
 Saur-Kraut, or Sour-Krout, 410, 411. 
 Smearkase, or Churds, 404, 405. 
 Sorghum Syrup, 40S. 
 Turkey's Eggs, 406. 
 Whisk Brooms, see Broom Corn, 411. 
 
GENERAL INDEX. 
 
 Adams, John Q., presented with a large Cod- 
 fish, 215. 
 
 Agricultural Society serves up a Baron of Beef, 
 88. 
 
 Albert, Prince, prepares a Highland Ox for the 
 " Christmas Dinner," 37. 
 
 Allen, S. G-., raises a large Pumpkin in Penn- 
 sylvania, 346. 
 
 Alligator on Long Island shot, 165. 
 
 American Agriculturist on various subjects, 
 80, 158, 339, 340, 414. 
 
 American Institute, Sea-Fish exhibited at the, 
 194. 
 
 American Museum, Dr. Scudder, purchases a 
 Sea-Dog, 19T. 
 
 Amherst, the name of the first fishing smack, 
 out of New York, 182. 
 
 Ancients, the food of the, 14. 
 
 Animal food, the effect of, 11-12. 
 
 Animals, names of, changed by being dressed, 
 or slaughtered for food ,26. 
 
 Animals, when they should be killed, 32. 
 
 Archdale's North Carolina, notices a large wild 
 Turkey, 159. 
 
 Astor, John Jacob, presents the skin of a 
 "white wild Sheep," 121. 
 
 Audubon on Buffalo meat, 113. 
 
 Author's indebtedness for assistance, 7. 
 
 Avery, Ealph H., has a very large Turkey, 140. 
 
 Ayres, Mr., serves up a large Oyster, 308. 
 
 Baker, Luke, large yield of Maple Sap from 
 one tree, 407. 
 
 Ball, John, shoots a large Loon with a Fish, 157. 
 
 Banks, Sir Joseph, introduces Cranberries in 
 England, 374. 
 
 Banks, Robert, on the introduction of the Po- 
 tato in England, 343. 
 
 Barnet's, W. S., Saw-fish caught in, mill-pond, 
 272. 
 
 Barret, G. L., shoots a wild Turkey in New 
 Jersey, 159. 
 
 Barnum's Museum burnt, &c, 153, 194, 282, 315. 
 
 Battery at Castle Garden once a great fishing 
 place, 196. 
 
 Bear Market, or Hudson Market, 125. 
 
 Beardsley, Dr. Myron, on taking the Sea Lam- 
 prey, 219. 
 
 Beebe, Theophilus, assists to take a monster 
 Vampyre of the ocean, 283. 
 
 * Beef-steak Club" on broiling a beef-steak, 45. 
 
 Bell, John G., the well-known Taxidermist, on 
 Buffalo meat, Mule Deer, &c, 112, 118, 155. 
 
 Bennett, Dr., on the Tomato, 353. 
 
 Bennett, Richard, raises late Sweet Corn, 333, 
 334. 
 
 Bergen, Mr., notices large stalks of Rhubarb, 
 349. 
 
 Bernheimer & Sons, kill a Fine Goat, 84. 
 
 Beuchel, Guillaume, introduces Pickled Her- 
 ring, 227. 
 
 Blair, Rev. Dr., quantity of Pumpkins from 
 two seed, 347. 
 
 Blanchard, Captain Nathan, of Swampscott, 
 215. 
 
 Bleeding animals detrimental to their flesh, 
 418, 419. 
 
 Bleeker, Mr., harpoons a big Turtle, 315. 
 
 Boll, Mr., exhibits Japanese Yam, 357. 
 
 Borroughs, Edward, in the Wild Duck trade, 
 150. 
 
 Boston Sea-Serpent captured, 269, 270. 
 
 Bowen notices potatoes sold by weight, 843, 
 
 Bowman, George, takes an American Angler. 
 
 275,276. 
 Bradford, Captain, purchases a Fowl curiosity, 
 
 Bradford's Coffee-house, N. Y, 225. 
 
 Braisted, G. (Fishmonger) takes a Spotted Gun- 
 nel out of an Oyster, 247, 308. 
 
 Bribing customs introduced in this country, 
 430,431. 
 
 Brittain, Mr., curiosity at the house of, 313. 
 
 Broadfield, Edward, and pickled Sturgeon, 224, 
 225. 
 
 Broiling Steaks, a successful expert at, 44, 45. 
 
 Brower, R. D., fishmonger, on catching Fish, 
 246, 255, 256, 299. 
 
 Brown, George, the heavy man, wins a Cat- 
 fish, 267. 
 
 Brown, James, exhibits large Custard Squash 
 and Corn, 352. 
 
 Brown's " Angler's Text-Book," 192. 
 
 Browning's " Bull's Head," a drove of poultry 
 at, 144. 
 
 Br own were, J. T., shoots an Alligator on Long 
 Island, 164, 165. 
 
 Bry, H. M., produces two crops of Capers, 360. 
 
 Buchanan, President, presented with a big 
 Turkey, 140. 
 
 Business lying, the general use of, 22, 23, 24. 
 
452 
 
 GENERAL INDEX. 
 
 Bunce, Colonel (of St. Clair), takes a large 
 Muscalonge, 206. 
 
 "Butcher's Company" (of London) advertise 
 casualty flesh, 16. 
 
 Butler, of New Haven, on broiling a Beef- 
 steak, 45. 
 
 Burnham, Michael (late), on Fish Chowder, 215. 
 
 Caviare, see Sturgeon, 223, 224. 
 
 Cadwallader, General, of Philadelphia, dines 
 
 on a large Brook Trout, 237. 
 Carlyle, John, takes a large Crab, 304. 
 Carlyon. Dr.. describes the mixtures of a grand 
 
 dinner, 17, 18. 
 Carman, Samuel, catches a large Salmon Trout, 
 
 252. 
 Chamber of Commerce on Fishery, 182, 183. 
 Charnin, John, on the use of Melons in Per- 
 sia, 382. 
 Charles the Fifth honors the grave of Beuchel, 
 
 227. 
 Chilton, Dr. James E., on the Oyster, 307. 
 Chowder, Fish, an excellent, 215. 216. 
 Christmas Boxes, the servants', 432, 433. 
 Chrystal Palace in N. T. burnt up, 352. 
 City sealer's returns on short measures, 25. 
 Clickner, C. V., presented with a large Spanish 
 
 Mackerel, 193. 
 Clinton, De Witt, on the Otsego Shad Salmon, 
 
 253 
 Cod Liver Oil, 215. 
 
 Collier, Dr., shoots at a bony scaled Pike, 279. 
 Collins, Colonel Edward, on an Ancient Ox 
 
 Boast, 33, 34. 
 Collins, Lieut. Edward, on an Ancient Ox 
 
 Boast, 33,34. 
 Colp, Jacob and John, catch Marked Shad, 201. 
 Cook, Captain, finds Cranberries at Hudson's 
 
 Bay, 374. 
 Cook, qualifications of a good, 423, 424. 
 Cooks and Cookery, 423. 
 "Coon Hunt," the first and last, 127, 12S, 129. 
 Coon, Samuel, takes a large Leather Turtle, 
 
 815. 
 Cooper, Mr., marks young Shad, 201. 
 Cooper, Petv, purchases cattle feet for making 
 
 glue, &c, 91. 
 Corned Beef, the cooking of. 426. 
 Cortelyou. Peter, on Shad Fishery, 203. 
 Crehore, Mrs. Diana, gives the name to " Diana 
 
 Grapes," 377. 
 Crook, Chester K., in possession of a large 
 
 Turkey, 139. 
 Cruikshank on Cooks, 427, 428, 429. 
 Crumby, J., takes a large Salmon Trout, 252. 
 Cudlip, Joseph, produces a large head of 
 
 Spinach, 352. 
 Curtis, Dr., Clinton Grape grown on the prem- 
 ises of, 377, 378. 
 Cuttyhonk, the fishermen at, 207, 208. 
 Cuvier on the age of the "Whale, 286. 
 
 Darien Exploring Expedition, starving men in 
 
 the, 113. 
 Davis, G., great fishing for Sea Bass by, 199. 
 Davis, William, choked by a Soal, 294. 
 Dealers, the character of some of the, 22, 23, 
 
 24,25. 
 Deas, Captain James, takes Salmon in the 
 
 North River, 192. 
 Debevoise Robert, cultivates the Strawberry, 
 
 891. 
 Decatur (Com.), and the Devil Fish, 277. 
 De Kays Fauna, &c, from, 210, 275, 298, 299. 
 
 De La Coste, Mr., on Canvas Backs, 151. 
 
 Denman, Wm. P., Member N. Y. Turtle Club 
 312. 
 
 De Toe, Colonel Half, Bison Beef sold by, 59. 
 
 Dickinson, Nathaniel, has a Half-moose Calf, 
 120. 
 
 Diet, an amusing article on, 100 years ago, 14, 
 15, 16. 
 
 Dinner, subject, a common, 6. 
 
 Dodd, F., takes the " Henry Clay Trout," 252. 
 Isaac, kills three Otters at a shot, 132. 
 
 Downing, Mr., and his drove of Poultry, 144. 
 
 Drumgold, James, Secretary of the Fisherman's 
 Club, 238. 
 
 Duchalet, M., on Horseflesh in Paris, 18. 
 
 Duncan, Mrs. John, " Scotch Haggis" by, 94. 
 
 Dunshee. Henry W., on the origin of Beef- 
 steak, 41, 42, 43. 
 
 Dwight, Dr. Timothy, on the Horse Mackerel, 
 
 Earle, John, catches large quantities of Drum- 
 fish, 264. 
 
 Eaton's Review of the Market Places, 7, 8, 9. 
 
 Economy in the use of Meats, 416, 417. 
 
 Edwards, Milne, on Fish culture, 187. 
 
 Eldridge and Ashley, Fishmongers, 193. 
 
 Ellis, Mr., with three Fish on one hook. 196. 
 
 Elizabeth, Queen (eating Goose on " Michael- 
 mas Day"), 141, 144. 
 
 Esquimaux, eating the Whale, 284, 285. 
 
 Evans (George), and Son (Tanners), 240. 
 
 Extravagancies of Nature in Vegetables, 346. 
 
 Faneuil Hall Market, 116, 215. 
 
 Farmers' Tricks of Trade (in topping, short 
 measure, etc.), 414. 
 
 Fingallon, a Lusty, on " Lyng," 262. 
 
 Fisherman's Fishy F— Fort. 319, 320. 
 
 "Fishing Women," and large Halibut, 318. 
 „ Smacks, the origin, 181, 186. 
 
 Fishery, the Legislature encourage, 182, 183. 
 
 Fitzwalter, Robert, Flitch of Bacon. 100. 
 
 Food, the first natural demand of man, 11. 
 
 Fordham, Daniel, kills a large Curlew, 163. 
 
 Francois, Xavier, takes a large Oyster, 30S. 
 
 Franklin, Dr., on the Dolphin and Broom Corn, 
 271, 412. 
 
 Frederick II. and the Winged Pike, 212. 
 
 Fuller, Doctor, on the Rohan Potato, 348. 
 
 Fuller, E. W.. catches an armed Genus Fili- 
 buster, 279, 280. 
 
 Furman's Notes on various subjects, 204, 213, 
 370, 375, 891. 
 
 Garnett, Hon. James M., on the Tuckahoe, 356. 
 Genin, the Hatter, in possession of a Big Trout, 
 
 233. 
 Gelston. D , raises large Pumpkins from two 
 
 seed, 346. 
 George, David, choked by a Sole, 294. 
 Gibbons, Thomas, an old Fly Market butcher, 
 . 38, 47. 
 Gibbs, George, introduces the Isabella Grape, 
 
 377. 
 Gibbs, Mrs. Isabella, gives the name of do., 377. 
 Girard, Stephen, Seckel Pear on the land of, 386. 
 Giraud's Birds, on the Flesh of Gulls and 
 
 Terns, 170. 
 Go-between, speculators in marketing, 21, 22. 
 Going to Market, " olden and modern custom," 
 
 21. 
 Goodhand. Thomas, on a jugged Cat-fish, 264, 
 
 265. 
 
GENERAL INDEX. 
 
 453 
 
 Goswold's men eating too much Dog-fish, 232. 
 
 Goulding, Captain Thomas, on Ox Boasting, 
 33, 34. 
 
 Goundie, G. H., on a large Brook Trout, 237. 
 
 Graham, John, kills a White Bear in Pennsyl- 
 vania, 125, 126. 
 
 Grant, Dr., cultivates the Date in Georgia, 375. 
 
 Grebuchet, Madame, and the " Stale" Lobster, 
 302, 303. 
 
 Greeley, Horace, on the flesh of the Prong 
 Horn, 120. 
 
 Green, Mr., gives name to Greening Apple, 370. 
 
 Greenfield, Thomas, maker of a Watch, 211. 
 
 Griffith's Store, a large cone of Butter at, 401. 
 
 Gross, Tare, and Net Weight described, 415. 
 
 Hains and Breneman's Fishery, 157. 
 Hall, Captain Henry, early cultivation of Cran- 
 berries, 374, 375. 
 Hall, Charles Francis, on Whale Meat, 284, 285. 
 Haroldson, Mr., shoots Bony-scaled Pike, 279. 
 Hart, Mr., a good shot, 154. 
 Havens, Mr. and Family, poisoned by Ehubarb 
 
 Leaves, 349. 
 Hawkins, John, imports Potatoes into Europe, 
 
 344. 
 Haycock, Solomon, and the Bottled Fish, 264, 
 
 265. 
 Hazzard, Samuel, on the customs in the Island 
 
 of Malta, 136. 
 Hazzard's U. S. Eegister notices a monster Sun 
 
 Fish, 280. 
 Hedden and Sons, poulterers, &c, 135, 323. 
 Herbert, Henry William, on Field Sports, 145, 
 
 146. 
 Hind-quarters of some animals not used by the 
 
 Jews, 19. 
 Hills & Stringer introduce Dandelion Coffee, 
 
 331 332 
 Hill, Mrs. Ann, on preparing Kolliches, 102, 103. 
 Holbrook, Anthony, Fishmonger of Quincy 
 
 Market, 215. 
 Horseflesh as food, 12, 13. 
 Hotaling, Messrs. S. & W., exhibit large 
 
 Cheeses, 403. 
 Hot-corn ! Hot-corn 1 the cry of, 834. 
 Hough, F. B., on the name Sisco, 298. 
 Howland, Captain, catches a large Eel, 241. 
 Hoyt, J. C, destroying Woodchucks, 130. 
 Hudson Market or Bear Market, the origin of, 
 
 125. 
 Hyam, Mrs., The Ancient Ham, 108. 
 
 Ingersoll, Captain Josiah, struck with a Sea 
 
 Bass, 199. 
 Irwin, Dr. W. A., kills two Antelopes with one 
 
 shot, 120. 
 
 Jackson, President, a large Cheese presented 
 to, 402. 
 
 Jackson, Samuel, Strawberries cultivated near 
 the land of, 391. 
 
 James, Reuben, Decatur's Coxswain, and Devil- 
 fish, 277. 
 
 Jefferson, President, a large Cheese presented 
 to, 402. 
 
 Jeroleman's " Punch House" at " Tea Water 
 Pump," 221. 
 
 Jew Butcher, or Shoket, 18, 87 
 
 Jewish customs on eating, 18. 
 
 Jewish mode of slaughtering an animal, 18. 
 
 Jews, Fish used by the, 181. 
 
 Jews, cause of refusal to eat the flesh from the 
 Hind-quarter, 19. 
 
 Johnson, Mr., of " Walton House," River at 
 Saranac, 205. 
 
 Johnson, B. P., Sec. N. Y. S. Ag. Sec , 28. 
 
 Johnson, Peter, in a dreadful fight with a 
 Shark, 234, 235. 
 
 Johnson, President, and the Big Turkey, 140. 
 
 Jones, Aaron R., on the cultivation of Musk- 
 Melons and Peaches, 380, 381, 385. 
 
 Josselyn, John, on the flesh of Porpoises and 
 Sharks, 230. 
 
 Juett's Journal on Salmon in the North River, 
 191. 
 
 Kahn, Professor, on the Skunk, Dolphin, Lob- 
 ster, etc., 130, 131, 271, 302. 
 
 Kellar, Mr., catches a large Lake Cat-fish, 267. 
 
 Kemp and Buskey, in the Wild Duck Trade, 150. 
 
 Knight, Dr. James, on the Vegetable Cherry, 
 392, 393. 
 
 Kohl-Slaw or Salat, 325. 
 
 Korkie, Louis S., catches a Two-headed Terra- 
 pin, 314. 
 
 King George the Second and the Jewelled 
 Roasted Ox, 33, 34. 
 
 King Henry the First and Stewed Lamprey, 219. 
 
 Law, Judge, on the Paw-Paw, 384. 
 
 Lawrence, Thomas, taking the Cow-nosed 
 Ray, 229. 
 
 Legg, High, attests to a Bottled Fish, 264, 265, 
 
 Lockwood, Mr., connected with a Loon-inci- 
 dent, 157. 
 
 Locusts used as food, 12. 
 
 Loranger, Joseph, (Detroit), 205. 
 
 Lounsberry, Widow, makes sale of a large Tur- 
 key, 140. 
 
 Mackinnon, Captain, catches Turbot, 256. 
 Maitland, Robert L., raises English Pheasants, 
 
 162, 163. 
 Market assistants not always trustworthy, 21, 
 
 22. 
 Market, going to, now and fifty years ago, 21, 
 
 22, 23, 24, 25, 26. 
 Market laws relating to the West Indies, 84. 
 Marie's samples of Cured Meat, 107. 
 Martin— ancient mode of dishing the Pea Fowl, 
 
 141. 
 Mathews, J. M. 140. j Purchase a large 
 
 Mathews, Hunt & Co., 140. { Turkey, etc 
 McComb, Mr., keeps domesticated Wild Geese, 
 
 14S. 
 Meacham, Col. Thos. S., produces large Cheeses 
 
 and Cones of Butter, 401, 402, 403, 404. 
 Measures, custom of heaping, 25. 
 Measures, seized for deficiency, 25. 
 Measuring, law or custom of, 25. 
 Meigs, Hon. Judge Henry, on Whale Flesh, 284. 
 Military Hero and the Poulterer, 22. 
 Miller, Samuel B. & Brother, fishmongers, 194, 
 
 204, 240, 253, 273, 274, 278. 
 Mingay, J. B., shows large White Asparagus, 
 
 323. 
 Mitchell, Dr. Samuel L., on various kinds of 
 
 Fish, 121, 229, 266, 281, 283. 
 Mitchell's plan of curing Herring, 227. 
 Modern fashion of Marketing, 21, 22. 
 Moore, Dr., thinks on the weight of a Saw-fish, 
 
 272. 
 Morren, Professor, on the use of Oxalis, 351. 
 Morris, Hon. Robert H., presented with a large 
 
 Shad, 200. 
 Morrison, Martin, on the origin of Porterhouse 
 
 Steaks, 45, 46. 
 
454 
 
 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 
 
 Morton, George, on Shad as a Manure, 202. 
 Moschett, fishmonger, on Fish, 273. 
 Mule-meat as food, 13. 
 Museum, American, or New York, receives a 
 
 large Muscalonge, 206. 
 Murat, Prince Achille, on the Buzzard's fiesh, 
 
 Neale, William, introduces Khubarb, 349. 
 Niblo, Mr. and Mrs. William, on a "Baron of 
 
 Beef," 38, 39. 
 Niblo, William, receives Choice Game, 150, 
 
 151,161. 
 Niles, .John, agent for tho sale of Salmon in 
 
 New York, 192, 193. 
 Niles Begister on Fish, 279, 282, 283, 284. 
 Nims, E., on a Woodchuck hunt, 130. 
 North, Professor, on the Clinton Grape, 377. 
 Norton, Charles, raises a large Turkey, 139. 
 
 iqq° n ' Henr y G -> introduces a large Turkey, 
 
 Noyes, Dr., Clinton Grape-vine planted near 
 house of, 378. 
 
 Oakley, George, catches a large Cat-fish, 267. 
 
 282 ban ' Dr '' ° n the Whit0 Por P°ise, 281 
 Old New Yorkers, custom of the, 21. 
 Ordinance on the sale of Oysters, 307. 
 
 Packer & Knapp, poulterers, 139. 
 
 Page, G. S., takes a large Brook Trout, 237, 238. 
 
 ±*atchen, John, assists to take a monster Vam- 
 
 pyre of the Ocean, 283. 
 Pa, JL custom with tho King of the Pumpkins, 
 
 P o r o k o er ' W '> takes a bi S Trout in Lake O'Claire, 
 238. 
 
 Parmly, Dr. Eleazer, used Cattle's Teoth origi- 
 nally, 90. 
 Paul, Wm., shows several dead Moose and Elk, 
 
 Peake, Mrs. Eebecca, gives the nam* to Re- 
 becca Grapes, 377. 
 
 Peale's Museum in Philadelphia, Saw-Fish pre- 
 served in, 272. 
 
 Peale's, Eeuben, Pantheon Museum in New 
 York, 314. 
 
 Percentages between tradesmen and servants. 
 430, 431, 432. 
 
 Perry, Justice, the seller of unknown flesh be- 
 fore, 420, 421. 
 
 Pessinger, George, witness on an unwholesome 
 meat case, 420, 421. 
 
 Phipson, Dr., on African Locusts as food, 12. ' 
 
 Pierpont, H. B, Strawberries cultivated near 
 the land of, 391. 
 
 Pilot, the old, and Porter-house Steaks, 46, 47. 
 
 Plaucus, Lucius, on the origin of Beefsteak, 42 
 
 Potter, Wm., assists to take a monster Fish 283 
 
 Porch er, animal anatomist for the Jews, 19 
 
 Porter-houses fifty years ago, 45, 46, 47 
 
 Preface to " The Market Assistant," 5. 
 
 Preparing Fish for cooking, 318. 
 
 Preserving Fish fresh, 31S. 
 
 Prescot, Josiah, shoots four Moose in one place, 
 
 Prize cattle, what produces, 28, 29. 
 Provisions, fresh, how to carry in warm 
 
 weather, 27. . 
 
 Public markets, what they should be, 9, 10. 
 
 Queen Elizabeth, Potatoes discovered in the 
 reign of, 344. 
 
 Raleigh, Sir Walter, introduction of the Potato 
 
 343, 344. 
 Rats as human food, 14. 
 Raymond, George, drives an Elk-team, 117. 
 Remy, John, origin of fish culture, 187. 
 
 m Sh £ a P tain > takes tne " Boston Sea-Serpent," 
 269, 270. 
 
 Ri o h o ard ' Wm., plants Lobsters near Hell-Gate, 
 
 302. 
 Richardson's evidence on the Lump-Fish, 278. 
 Riker on the Newtown Pippin, 370. 
 Roberts, John, marks young Shad, 201 
 Roberts, John, of the " Cross Keys," 211. 
 Robinson, Henry, introduces Carp in the North 
 
 River, 290, 291. 
 Rogers, N, agent for fresh Salmon, 193. 
 Rogers, Wm. M., fishmonger, shows a largo 
 
 Muscalonge, 204. 
 Rogers & Co., fishmongers, 206, 241. 
 Ross, Mr., 131. 
 Royal Baron of Beef" a Christmas dinner for 
 
 the sovereign of England, 37. 
 Russell's, Judge, judgment on the sellers of 
 
 young Veal, 421. 
 
 Sammis, George T., shoots two Swans, 148. 
 Saunders's, Isaac, son carried off by a Bear 126 
 Savage, Mr., keeper of a Museum in New 
 - York, 197. 
 Scales, L. W., exhibits an enormous Alligator 
 
 (iar, 279. 
 Schenck, P. A., possesses two stuffed Ducks, 151 
 Schneider, Jacob, of Leigh Water Gap, 237 
 Schomp, Major H. G, to the old Goose, 143. 
 Schomp, Robert, exhibited at the Fair, 143. 
 Schultz, Captain A. H., and Bass, 197, 198. 
 Scott's, Lieut-Gen., opinion on Half-Bieon 
 
 Beet; 59. 
 Scriba's Seat, Newark, N. J., 159. 
 
 Scudder, John, proprietor of , 197. 
 
 Scudders American Museum, big Turtlo put 
 
 Seckel, Mr., gives the name to Seckel Pear, 886 
 Seisco, Dr. James D., gives name of Sisco to 
 
 that Fish, 298. 
 Sharp, Solomon, on the Porpoise, 231. 
 Shellar, Robert, Turtling with a rat-trap, 316 
 Shields, William G., shoots the " Big Duck," 115. 
 Shoket, a Jew butcher, or cutter, 18. 19. 
 "Shoppers" and "Runners," the character of 
 
 some of the, 33, 34. 
 Shubert, Philip, catches marked Shad, 201. 
 Sibley, John Langdon, on the plentifulnoss ot 
 
 Moose, 119. 
 Simon, Captain, sloop Science, catches tho 
 
 Leaping Sturgeon, 226. 
 Simpson, Jr., Wm., exhibits Wood-Duck at the 
 
 Fair, 152. 
 Singleton, William M., raises Tamarmd-Treea 
 
 in Virginia, 392. 
 Skinner, Bryant, and Kendal, Drs., and the 
 
 Shark-torn man, 235. 
 Smith, Captain John, noticed Persimmons as 
 
 Putchamins, 386. 
 Smith, Dr., on Fish of various kinds, 224, 241, 
 Smith, Gideon B., letter from Audubon on 
 
 Buffalo, 113. 
 Smith, Wm. S., takes a Cow-nosed Ray, 229. 
 Smyth, Col , receives a large Muscalonge, 206. 
 Snediker, Abraham, on the Weaser, 154. 
 Southmayd, Horace, on the success of broilinff 
 
 Beefeteaks, 44, 45. 
 Speculators, go-between, families furnished by 
 
INDEX. 
 
 455 
 
 Stanley, Henry O., successful Brook-Trout fish- 
 ing, 238. 
 Starr, George, on the Cow-nosed Kay, 229. 
 Stetson, Captain, and the Rich Haddock, 217. 
 St. George's Society, has several Barons of Beef 
 
 roasted, 38. 
 St. Hilaire, Goeffrey, opinion on Fish culture, 
 
 187. 
 St. Nicholas Society purchases a Mammoth 
 
 Cheese, 402. 
 Storer, on various kinds of Fish, 269, 280. 
 Street Pedlers, rascality among the, 25. 
 Suckatash, great Indian dish called, 334. 
 Sumner, Major Joh, dies from eating poisonous 
 
 Dolphin, 271, 272. 
 Swartcope, John V., early cultivation of the 
 
 Strawberry by, 391. 
 Sykes, Wm, of the " New York Coffee House," 
 
 38, 110, 150, 151. 
 
 Tallman, Benjamin, large catch of Menhaden, 
 
 251. 
 Taylor, Lieutenant, on an ancient Ox-roast, 34. 
 Teall, Horace, and the Coppery Black Bass, 
 
 219. 
 Tetley, Richard, shoots a very large Woodcock, 
 
 164. 
 " The Market Book," 5, 125. 
 The Market-place as described by Eaton, 7, 8, 9. 
 Tiffany, Ellis & Co., have three large Brook 
 
 Trout, 237. 
 Tilton, Messrs., dealers in live Poultry, 137. 
 Thompson, Alfred G., presents large Shad, 200. 
 Thompson, John (early known as Scotch 
 
 Johnny), 224, 225. 
 Thorburn, Grant, exhibits a curious Turnip, 357. 
 Thorburn, Grant C, exhibits a large Pumpkin, 
 
 346. 
 Thurber, Professor, on Sheep's Casins, 94. 
 Tofts, Elizabeth, the Babbit Woman, who used 
 
 Cats instead, 16. 
 Townshend, Wm., catches a monstrous Eel 
 
 341, 342. 
 Trajan, Emperor, on the origin of Beef-Steak, 42. 
 Turell, Mr., has an enormous Clam-Shell, 309. 
 Tuthill, T. V., on the the taking of Porgees, etc., 
 
 Underbill, Mr., produces large Asparagus, 323. 
 Uring, Capt. N., on making hominy at the 
 South, 409. 
 
 Vanderbilt, Mr., Engineer, on the Loon, 157, 158. 
 
 Van Banst, Mr., takes a Green Turtle at Bush- 
 wick Creek, 312. 
 
 Veazie's, Mr., a monster Sun-Fish taken near, 
 280, 281. 
 
 Vegetable Food, the effects of, 11, 12. 
 
 Vinsellette, Peter, fishmonger, 200, 295. 
 
 Wagon Pedlers, 25. 
 
 Walton, Isaac, the admirers of, 238. 
 
 Ward, William, marks Young Shad, 201. 
 
 Warriner, Capt. James, on an ancient Ox Boast, 
 34. 
 
 Waters, G- F., on the Ground Nut, 397. 
 
 Webb, Chas. H, Almoner of St. George Society, 
 38. 
 
 Webb, Mr., shoots a Buffalo bony Pike, 279. 
 
 Webster, Hon. Daniel, presented with a large 
 Cheese, etc., 202, 403, 404. 
 
 Weekes, Stephen, Engraver of the wood-cuts, 6. 
 
 Weight and Measure, deficient, 25. 
 
 Welsh, Sandy, of the " Terrapin Lunch," N. Y., 
 313, 314. 
 
 West, Mr., President of the Fishermen's Club, 
 238. 
 
 What makes a Bushel, 414, 415. 
 
 " What we eat," Title-page, 11. 
 
 Wheeler, Andrew C, butcher, cuts a baron of 
 beef large, 39. 
 
 White and Torrey, Pilots, assist to take a large 
 Turtle, 315. 
 
 White Bishop, on the origin of the Seckel 
 Pear, 386. 
 
 White, Hugh, planted the original Clinton Grape- 
 vine, 377, 378. 
 Whittemore's Tavern at Beverley exhibits an 
 
 Old Wife. 277. 
 Wilkes, Lieutenant, on the flesh of the Ante- 
 lope, 120. 
 Willis, Mrs. B. exhibits a very large Quince, 389. 
 Winslow, Edward, manures land with Shad, 202. 
 Wooston, J, produces a large Strawberry, 391, 
 
 392. 
 Wunder, E. E., catches a large Brook Trout, 238. 
 
 Yankee Land not least in Pumpkins, 346, 347. 
 
 Yarnell, on the Swan, 142. 
 
 Young, J. B., takes a large Brook Trout 237. 
 
 Zeigler, Mr., of the Eagle Hotel t of Bethal, Pa. 
 
 >--. 
 
THE MARKET-BOOK. 
 
 BY THOMAS F. DE VOE, 
 
 MEMBER OP THE NEW YORK HISTORICAL SOCIETY. 
 
 In Two Volumes, Octavo, (about 650 pages each.) 
 
 The introduction of the First Volume of " The Market-Book" 
 has brought forth several commendatory, notices from the " press * 
 and from several prominent individuals, of which extracts have been 
 introduced in the- following pages. The first edition having been 
 long exhausted, another (revised) will appear, with the Second 
 Volume, which will soon be ready for the press. 
 
 " It furnishes a mass of information difficult to be found elsewhere, and gleaned by 
 you from sources few seek, and fewer investigate with the care and patience which 
 you have exhibited. There are many recitals and telling incidents which deepen the 
 interest and give attraction to the work. 
 
 " In its perusal, I was reminded of a remark made by Hallam in his ' Middle Ages,' 
 when referring to the ' History of France ' by the Fathers of St. Maur, that you might 
 dive at random in it, and could not fail to bring up some curious fact. I write from 
 memory ; but such is the purport, if not the words of his observation. So I hold the 
 result to be in regard to your work. 
 
 " "What a contrast between the ' Old Burgher Butchers,' whom you characteris- 
 tically describe, and their fast descendants ! The change in the spelling of the an- 
 cestral names are not greater than the altered mode of living and the luxurious habits 
 which mark their generations, in our day. Some have reflected honor on the parent 
 stem, whilst others have endeavored to kick away the ladder on which they rose. 
 The human race but repeats itself, and with innate tendencies would run into excess, 
 but for the file which a growing religious sentiment applies to remove its defects and 
 polish its surface. 
 
 " Your well-arranged index is a most valuable aid, and is copious and sententious. 
 The theme of your second volume is fruitful with varied and useful topics of great 
 public utility." — Frederic Be Peyster, Esq. 
 
 " I must take leave to add how very creditable it is to you as an historian and an 
 author. 
 
 "Your research is thorough, so that you are an example to others for its fidelity: 
 you are never led away by chimeras that form the romance of history; but show your- 
 self in every page a lover of truth and a diligent and successful searcher after truth. 
 
The style of your -work has everywhere that first merit of clearness ; and is often 
 more elegant, I assure you, than that of many who are professed scholars. I am glad, 
 too, to respond to the fine patriotic spirit which pervades your work : I agree with you 
 fully that ' we must watch, guard, and battle, if necessary, that the Union may be 
 preserved.'" — Hon. George Bancroft. 
 
 " It has been so much the habit to make History the mere record of wars, of the 
 quarrels of kings, and the intrigues of politicians, that of the more immediate inter- 
 ests of the daily life of peoples, their customs, their sports, their markets, their house- 
 hold existence, we are left in comparative ignorance. 
 
 " It seems quite fitting that in this, our peoples' form of government and society, a 
 new historical path should be struck out, and you have proved yourself a careful and 
 skillful pioneer therein." — Hon. Charles King. 
 
 " I have read it carefully through, and as the period over which it extends is one to 
 which I have given considerable attention, it affords me great pleasure to say that it 
 contains more original and accurate information in respect to local events and manners 
 in the early history of the city than any work upon the subject that has appeared dur- 
 ing my lifetime. It is chiefly commendable for its industry and its accuracy, and will 
 for this reason be more serviceable as a record of past landmarks than other produc- 
 tions in the same line of inquiry of much greater pretensions. You have not only 
 shown great industry, patience, and care in the collection of materials, but have 
 enhanced the value of the book by an index so copious and minute as to enable all 
 co-laborers to get at the large amount of original information you have brought to 
 light with the least possible loss of time. This is a matter which the writers of books, 
 and especially of books of this description, attend to but indifferently ; the conse- 
 quence of which is that their labors are not as available to others as they might be, 
 and are overlooked by subsequent inquirers, who would otherwise refer to them as 
 standard sources of information." — Hon. Charles P. Daly. 
 
 " The very thorough examination which I have been enabled to make of this, tho 
 first fruit of your historical labors, has enabled me to speak understandingly when I 
 say that it is a monument of patient toil which reflects the very highest credit on the 
 diligent laborer who has produced it; and that, as a local history as well as a guide 
 to the more general inquirer concerning the past of New York, no work has preceded 
 this which for minuteness of detail, for precision of statement, and for undoubted cor- 
 rectness, may be at all compared with it as a rival or a substitute." 
 
 Henry B. Dawson, Esq. 
 
 " When I consider the little time you can spare from your attention to business, ' The 
 Market-Book ' is at once a monument of your unflinching zeal and untiring indus- 
 try. Those only know the drudgery required (and this I speak from experience) in 
 searching through musty documents or files of newspapers, to verify or confirm some 
 isolated fact, who have performed that service ; your book gives the evidence of this 
 most irresistibly. The pages teem with a freshness of historic matter that ought to 
 gladden the heart of every New Yorker, but more especially your own profession. 
 
 "The interest of the subject grows as we progress in the perusal; there is a fund 
 of humor, of anecdote, and of personal history which incites the reader onward in his 
 agreeable task. The arrangement of the book is admirable, and precludes the possi- 
 bility of confusion. 
 
 " 1 hope the old market-place of New Amsterdam will ever be secure from innova • 
 tion or desecration, and so long as the Bowling Green remains, it will be. And old 
 ' Fly Market,' although among the things of the past, how many pleasing memories 
 
3 
 
 it must call up from the storehouse of the past to those among us who rememher its 
 noticeable features ! What visions of juicy steaks! — the fat and luscious rib-pieces, 
 and the inviting leg of lamb, must be theirs. And there were also those famous old 
 fellows of the cleaver, viz: Astor, Pesinger, Gibbons, Seaman, etc., the remembrance 
 of whom calls up a secret wish for the enjoyment again of those ' good old times.' 
 
 " To your craft you have rendered an essential service, in rescuing from oblivion 
 the many good deeds of your forefathers, who were among thp first to volunteer to 
 meet the foe, — to face the pestilence which wasteth at noonday, or extend the hand 
 of charity to the needy. 
 
 " I have no doubt but that your book will be fully appreciated, so that you will 
 have no cause to regret the labor and time bestowed on its production ; and I heartily 
 wish your success in every particular will be adequate to its merits. 
 
 Late William J. Davis, Esq. 
 
 " I beg to express to you the pleasure I have had in reading your historical ac- 
 count of the Markets of our city. Having been aware of your persevering labors in 
 searching our records and procuring information from every source which could throw 
 light on your subject, I anticipated an interesting and reliable work. My expecta- 
 tions have been more than realized, and those who feel an interest in our city history 
 will feel grateful for the pleasure they must derive from the result of your labors." — 
 David T. Valentine, Esq. 
 
 " The items of the history of the city of New York contained in this volume of yours, 
 if not the most important in a political aspect, yet is exceedingly valuable in its civil 
 and domestic relations. The domestic habitudes of any community controls most 
 other interests, and is a pretty true indication of its state of civilization." — Dr. Hor- 
 ace Webster. 
 
 11 The patient labor which you have bestowed in the collection of the materials to 
 form so complete a history of the rise and progress of Markets in New York, entitles 
 you to the thanks of the community. You have given to the world not only a his- 
 tory of the rise and progress of Markets, but have also collected and given a vast 
 amount of valuable information relating to the transitions through which societies 
 and colonies have passed since their first landing among the Indian tribes. Valu- 
 able lessons may be learned from the sufferings of the colonists, brought on, as a nat- 
 ural consequence, by the falsehood, fraud, and violence practiced by them in dealing 
 with these Indian tribes. It is lamentable to find how slow mankind is to learn 
 that every act of cruelty brings wretchedness in its train. 
 
 *' It is also encouraging to know — as you have shown — how the fair dealing of 
 Gov. Stuyvesant, a single individual, could restore peace and a prosperous trade to a 
 whole colony." — Peter Cooper, Esq. 
 
 " You have given to a special department of local history one of the most remark- 
 able contributions which it has fallen within my experience to hear or read of. I 
 could hardly have thought of a topic less likely to reward literary labor ; and after 
 looking with care at what you have done, I confess myself unable to understand by 
 what powers for minute observation, or by what process of labor, you have assembled 
 so vast an amount of information relative to a subject in which almost the whole 
 world considers that the chief business is " consumption; " and which we would sup- 
 pose in general treasured so few records for the pen of History. 
 
 " Your volume, past doubt, is encouraging to every investigation into local his- 
 tory ; for it shows that nothing in the material world which concerns men at all, is 
 without memorials, quite its own, which require but the man and the hour to collect 
 
and bring them forth for the instruction of every order of society. As I laid down 
 your volume, I recalled the declaration of Cicero : '•Etenim omnes artes qua ad human- 
 itatem pertinent, habent quoddam commune vinculum : et quasi cognatione quadam, inter 
 se continentur.'' 
 
 " The Philadelphia Markets have had, in the estimation of our own people, at least, 
 some agreeable distinctions ; and I am happy to hear that you purpose to devote some 
 of your efforts to teaching us a little about ourselves." — John William Wallace, Esq. 
 
 " My father has just finished the reading of your work. I need not say how much 
 the book gratified him. He expresses a wish that some Philadelphian may have the 
 leisure and inclination to write a history of the market-houses in Philadelphia. There 
 is ample material for such a history, and I presume such a volume would be accept- 
 able to all our citizens, except a few of the aristocracy, who might not wish to have 
 their families traced back to the ancient and honorable society of victualers." — John 
 A. McAllister, Esq. 
 
 " The subject is one which none better understand than yourself, and you have 
 handled it at once in a luminous and agreeable manner; and when I say so, I beg 
 you will acquit me of any desire to flatter, unless the. strict truth may be called so." 
 — Ferd. J. Dreer, Esq. 
 
 " Its style is clear and vigorous, it is fraught with useful infbrmation, and abounds 
 in pleasing anecdote. To me, as an old New Yorker (having lived in the city nearly 
 half a century), it has been exceedingly interesting. 
 
 " Many of the facts you state, and scenes you describe, had passed from my mem- 
 ory, but you have revived them in all their freshness ; and many of the actors in 
 these scenes, whom you name, were, in their day, my personal friends, and some of 
 them members of the church to which I minister ; so that, in reading your book, I 
 have been thrown once more into communion with many old friends, and lived life 
 over again. 
 
 " There is also in this volume much historical matter (some of it connected with our 
 Revolutionary struggle) that is both interesting and important; and the proceedings 
 of our city authorities from time to time, which you narrate, it appears to me ren- 
 ders your book a necessity, or at all events, desideratum, to our authorities now — the 
 present ought to learn wisdom from the past, even from its errors. I will only add 
 that I cannot but admire the indomitable patience and perseverance displayed in 
 your researches. How, with the active business life which you lead, you ever found 
 time to collect from various and varied sources such an amount of useful information 
 as you have condensed in this volume, I cannot conceive." — Rev. D. J. McElroy. 
 
 " I have read portions of it, and ftnind them highly interesting and instructive. The 
 index is of great value. The more I read of the book, the greater is my surprise at 
 the diligence and thoroughness and extent of your researches. It seems as if but 
 little more could be gleaned on the topics which you have taken up ; and a great 
 amount of incidental information respecting the city and its inhabitants has been 
 saved by you from oblivion." — Rev. John Langdon Sibley. 
 
 " It is certainly a book of merit, and much more interesting than its title would at 
 first suggest. The manner it was received by the New York Historical Society was, 
 in my opinion, but a just appreciation of what the book deserves, and my acknowl- 
 edgments would add very little to the compliments of a body so distinguished." — 
 Rev. Aug. J. Thebaud. 
 
" I have begun its perusal, and have already become much interested in its historic 
 details. It is a unique work, — as satisfactorily filling a blank hitherto unfilled ; — and 
 when completed, it will certainly be most creditable to its author, as bearing evidence 
 of very careful research, and much literary toil on his part." — Rev. Thomas Lyle. 
 
 " But now what shall I say of the book itself? It really surprises me, and I hardly 
 know whether most to admire its multiplicity and range of subject, the perseverance 
 and energy which has collected so vast an amount of material from sources not easily 
 accessible, or the judgment and correct taste shown in their arrangement and con- 
 necting remarks. All is admirable. 
 
 " I will now confess, that when you first mentioned the intended work several years 
 ago, and hinted that some day it might be in print, I feared it would not be possible to 
 invest so dry a subject (seemingly) with sufficient interest to make the book readable, 
 and that disappointment would be the result. 
 
 " Your lecture removed that fear, and begat a strong hope of its success among a 
 certain class. But really, your Market is so superabundantly supplied with ' tit bits ' 
 of every kind, and suited to the craving of every appetite, that only a nondescript can 
 fail to find what pleases his palate ! 
 
 " The book is a feast of fat things to men of antiquarian tastes ; and while reveling 
 in the lusciousness of such a repast they cannot but admire the industry which 
 prepared, and the public spirit that has placed it before them. In this view, it is a 
 valuable contribution to the history of New York. 
 
 " The intelligent man of leisure will value it as a collection of those rare and curi- 
 ous incidents which enter so largely into the history of a people, and so clearly serve 
 to illustrate their progress. 
 
 " In this respect you have spoken of every thing, from the ' Cedars of Lebanon to 
 the Hyssop on the Wall.' From ' Mars on a market-day smiling at Mrs. Mingay's 
 call, to old Johnny Day's gratitude to his benefactress ' ; with many others quite as in- 
 teresting but far more ludicrous. In fact, yours is a book for the millwn, and if that 
 million only have sense enough to buy and appreciate it, it will be a pleasing proof 
 of healthy intelligence." — Late Rev. Jesse Pound. 
 
 " A book full of curious research and information upon a subject that concerns us 
 all, and hitherto unexplored. 
 " It could not be better done." — Late Lt.-Gen. WinfieM Scott. 
 
 " I have read with much interest your very pleasant and agreeable book upon the 
 Markets of New York. 
 
 " It exhibits much research, and presents a great number of incidents of the early 
 history of New York which I have never before seen in print, although familiar to me 
 as one of the older residents. 
 
 " It is, as far as my own memory extends, perfectly reliable in all its leading facts, 
 and I hope you will continue your labors in this department of local history so inter- 
 esting to us, who have grown with the growth of this great city and who can remem- 
 ber when it was a small one." — Major-Gen. Charles W. Sandford. 
 
 " I regret I lack the ability fully to describe the enjoyment I experienced in looking 
 over its pages, and what I think of your great industry, devotion, and untiring re- 
 search and perseverance in bringing together so many and such various subjects and 
 incidents in connection with the history of the markets. I find related with great 
 truthfulness many circumstances of which I myself in my younger days was cogniz- 
 *nt, — many incidents of the olden times which I have received as traditions from 
 older persons, — many names of distinguished individuals, some of whom I have 
 
6 
 
 known personally, and others with whose positions and actions I have been familiar 
 In my estimation, it is a book the perusal of which cannot fail to greatly interest 
 those who take pleasure in whatever relates to the days gone by, and the unexampled 
 growth and prosperity of our goodly city, not only in its markets, but in every thing 
 else which adds to our comfort and enjoyment." — Major-Gen. Henry T. Kiersted. 
 
 "I think you have done good service to the public in carefully collecting the facts 
 that you have brought together and presenting them in a form both interesting and 
 statistical. 
 
 " It is a literary virtue that you have not attempted to go outside of your subject; 
 and the step by step progress that has brought our city from a wilderness to its pres- 
 ent greatness is well and interestingly shown in your book of markets. 
 
 " I esteem the subject of good markets and market regulations of the first impor- 
 tance to the health and comfort of a great city, and any thing that directs the public 
 mind in the right channel is a public benefit. 
 
 "After devoting so much time to this subject and presenting it in so able a form, 
 I hope you will go still further and give the city the benefit of your experience and 
 practical knowledge of how to bring the producer and consumer nearer together, and 
 to supply our markets abundantly with wholesome food. 
 
 "I believe every citizen owes you thanks for your labors thus far; and rich and 
 poor will alike be indebted to you for much needed reform that may follow your fur- 
 ther investigation of the subject." — Brig. -Gen. William Hall. 
 
 " I have read the history of the Markets written by you, and have done so with a 
 great deal of pleasure, as it has brought back to my memory youthful days and recol- 
 lections of more than fifty years ago, and traditionary a great many more on the back 
 of that, — the many remarkable events and incidents which occurred around the old 
 market-places, — Peck Slip, Exchange, Oswego, Catherine, Bear, and the old Fly 
 Market, all of which have been most faithfully portrayed by you. It also calls back 
 to my knowledge and associations the names of Thomas Gibbons, David Marsh, 
 David Seaman, Mathew Vogel, and many other old butchers whose lives are exam- 
 ples worthy of being recorded on the brightest pages of history. To me this is a 
 valuable book, and what pleases me more than all is that its author is one of the pro- 
 fession, who I think ought to be promptly encouraged, not only by all belonging to it, 
 but by every New Yorker." — Col. William Appleby. 
 
 " My time has been so much occupied as to prevent my making as yet more than a 
 hasty examination of the volume ; but even that has disclosed enough to warrant my 
 hearty commendation of the work. It evinces most industrious and successful re- 
 search, the results of which are admirably arranged. Its historical fullness will afford 
 valuable aid to our city authorities in the matter of market legislation. The high 
 literary excellence which characterizes the style of the book adds much to the inter- 
 est of the narrative, and must render it not only interesting and instructive to the 
 antiquarian, but inviting to the general reader." — Hon. George Opdyke. 
 
 " I have just finished the perusal of your work entitled ' The Market-Book,' and 
 certainly found it far more interesting than I had expected. 
 
 " Had you confined yourself simply to the subject indicated by the title of the 
 work, it would still have possessed great interest, as showing the early modes of sup- 
 plying the city with the means of daily subsistence and the almost patriarchal con- 
 trol of the Common Council in reference to the establishment of public markets ; their 
 supply of country produce ; and the system of licensing butchers and others to occupy 
 stands, and dispose of provisions thereon. But you have done much more than this. 
 
You have for the first time collected the scattered and curious materials of the city's 
 early domestic history in a volume of ample proportions, and have superadded various 
 legends, from living witnesses who still linger on the verge of time, and which would 
 have been forever lost, had not your industry and perseverance thus rescued them 
 from oblivion. 
 
 " In my course of reading in ancient and even in modern history, I have often 
 regretted that the limits of the historian did not permit him to unfold more of the 
 social habits and occupations of the people, and that little appears in history but its 
 more salient points, such as national wars, revolutions, and the change of dynasties. 
 It is true Hallam has done more, and so has Macaulay, and a few others of our recent 
 historians ; but in the matter of social history, which is after all the great exponent 
 of human happiness, little has been or perhaps could have been accomplished. 
 
 " In view of the above, it has been gratifying to me to find that you left the tented 
 field, with garments rolled in blood, (I mean human blood,) and all the pomp and cir- 
 cumstance of glorious war, to take care of themselves, and that you have become the 
 less ambitious chronicler of the plain, every-day lives of the honest, sturdy burghers 
 of the past, telling our present degenerate boys and girls that the colossal fortunes of 
 many of our citizens commenced in the simple, persevering industry of their ances- 
 tors ; thus showing that while labor may appear antiquated to many, it is the only 
 sure foundation and precursor of enduring prosperity. 
 
 " So too you have told us that Pope was not mistaken when he said that 
 
 " ' Honor and shame from no condition rise ; 
 Act well your part, there all the honor lies. 1 
 
 " The unpretending man who retails meat, and the woman who did the same by 
 vegetables, were found, when the emergencies required it, among the ranks of the 
 patriot and philanthropist ; facing death in the battle-field or at the bed of the sufferer 
 from malignant disease, and leading or following in all that was calculated to elevate 
 humanity, or enlarge the boundaries of human happiness. 
 
 " Your work contains also much of the facetious and joyous, for at those early pe- 
 riods business did not make such heavy drafts on leisure ; there was more time, as the 
 proverb has it, ' tojaugh and grow fat^ ' and the butcher who drove fat oxen enjoyed 
 his laugh, and did not leave all the fat to the oxen. In a word, those who suppose 
 that your work (from its title) is limited in its range, or dry and uninteresting in its 
 details, had better be disabused at once by reading it, and they will assuredly become 
 convinced, as I have, that no genuine New Yorker should be without it." 
 
 Hon. Thomas Jeremiah. 
 
 " I have read the work with pleasure and interest. The great labor and research 
 you have bestowed upon it makes it a valuable addition to the history of our city. 
 Although the work ostensibly treats of the public markets and market-places of the 
 city of New York, yet it contains a vast fund of information and personal history 
 very difficult to be obtained. I trust you will receive such patronage for this work 
 that the second volume you are preparing may be placed at an early day in our 
 hands." — John W. Chambers, Esq. 
 
 " The author of this book subscribes his modest preface, ' Thomas F. De Voe, 
 Butcher," 1 a title which, in connection with that which graces his title-page, gives 
 assurance of the solid character of his book. He is an author in spite of himself. 
 Having been led to make some researches in the archives of the New York Historical 
 Society to gratify his own curiosity as to the antiquities of his profession, he was in- 
 duced to prepare a paper on this subject, and to read it before the Society in acknowl- 
 
8 
 
 edgment of its services to him. His labors were so warmly received that the expand- 
 ing of his paper into a book was simply a development in the order of Nature. The 
 book itself is best described by the following sentence from its second title-page: 
 1 This volume contains a history of the public markets of the city of New York, from 
 its first settlement to the present time, with numerous curious and remarkable inci- 
 dents connected therewith, the introduction of cattle, supplies, trading, prices, and 
 laws; sketches of the old burgher butchers, and the licensed butchers of modern 
 times; together with a compilation of facts of every sort and character relating to the 
 subject.' 
 
 " Not the least edifying portions of this book are those in which the chronicle runs 
 parallel with that of Diedrich Knickerbocker; it is sometimes hard to say whether 
 the literal record of the days of Van Twiller and Kieft or the mock-heroic history is 
 the more grotesque. Some idea of the relative value of commodities of the market 
 and the loom in 1638 may be formed from a legal transaction of that date, described 
 as follows : ' Cornelius Petersen appeared before the Secretary Van Tienhoven, and 
 declared with true Christian affirmation, in lieu of a solemn oath, that it was true that 
 he had purchased a hog from Ann Jackson, in payment of which she took from his 
 store so much of purpled cloth as was sufficient for a petticoat.' It is easy enough, as 
 every one knows, by mere excerpts such as this from antique records and documents 
 to insure a certain kind and measure of interest for a book treating of local habits, 
 customs, and institutions ; but our author succeeds not less in giving entertainment 
 to his readers as he approaches our own times, and narrates the results of his own ob- 
 servation and experience within familiar precincts. 
 
 " The book is really a curious one, and to be commended to the student of manners 
 and customs. We trust Mr. De Voe will not disappoint us of a second volume. 
 Some of the material which he collects and preserves is of a kind to amuse and en- 
 tertain, if not greatly to instruct, posterity." — North American Review. 
 
 " The first volume of ' The Market-Book,' by Thomas F. De Voe, is in the market. 
 As you can generally judge of a man by his face, s,o you can of a book by its preface. 
 The preface of this is dated from Jefferson Market, and signed ' Thomas F. De Voe, 
 Butcher.' There is an honesty about this opening especially commendable. The 
 author of a very recent publication dated from the Fifth Avenue Hotel — he probably 
 wished to have the world know that he lived there. Mr. De Voe also wishes his 
 friends to know where he is to be found, and, accordingly, dates from^ his place of 
 business. He is a butcher by trade, — a good one, we will guarantee, — and he writes 
 himself so. He considers his profession quite as honorable as those of banker, broker, 
 lawyer, or physician. And he is right. Why should we accord a respect to that 
 man who mixes us pills and prescribes draughts, which we refuse to give to him who 
 furnishes us with palatable' steaks and juicy joints? And so on through the list. It 
 is customary to bow to the man who discounts a bill for us at an enormous ' shave,' 
 and to exchange cards with one who loses or gains for us a lawsuit that proves the 
 ruin of all parties concerned, while we speak rather condescendingly, or nod patroniz- 
 ingly, to our butchers and bakers. Much of this sort of thing will be changed some 
 time before the Millennium commences. 
 
 " In giving us this history of the markets, Mr. De Voe very nearly furnishes us with 
 a history of our city. In all manner of queer recesses and out-of-the-way receptacles, 
 he seems to have dived and delved for the material of his book ; and as facts gener- 
 ally lie in clusters, like oysters or potatoes, the consequence is, that he has fished up 
 many that are of interest to even those who care little about market reform and 
 the steady progress and gradual development of the butcher's art. Commencing with 
 the reign of Wouter Van Twiller, Mr. De Voe brings his history down to that of 
 
Wood. Interesting as it always is to watch the progress of the professions — to fol- 
 .ow the feeble footsteps of their infancy until the field comes to ring with the firm, as- 
 sured tread of their virility — it is especially so to follow the progress of those that 
 pertain to killing, to mark the dawn of the art, the gradual development, and the slow 
 but sure degrees by which it has been brought to perfection. In military science, 
 from the club of Abel to the columbiad of the present day is a step, somewhat long, 
 but instructive and amusing to take. In the medical profession, between the first 
 rude appliances of the art to the perfected prescriptions and deftly constructed in- 
 struments which now lie ready to the chirurgeon's hand, lies a path of progress 
 that it is pleasant to trace. And all the foregoing remarks apply to the butcher's 
 trade. 
 
 " We are willing to stake our reputation that this first cut of Mr. De Voe's in the 
 literary line will please even that most fastidious of customers — the reading public." 
 New York Times. 
 
 " Of'all the curious works which a spirit of antiquarian research has yet produced 
 in the United States, this book is the most remarkable. History, when devoted to the 
 recital of noble actions and great events, is sufficiently interesting to attract intelligent 
 readers of all classes. It is a more confined sphere which limits the local chronicler 
 to a tedious and industrious unearthing and narration of the comparatively petty 
 events which have occurred in the progress of a count}'- or township. Nothing but a 
 strong enthusiasm can repay the annalist for his labor in reviving the memory of 
 events that seem but trivial in comparison to the more solemn transactions which 
 mark the progress of communities. The investigator of family history may indulge 
 a hereditary pride in gathering the personal reminiscences which preserve the mem- 
 ory of good and useful actions, and which reflect credit upon the descendants of the 
 worthy. But who would have thought that a handsome and interesting book could 
 be made out of the dry records of the markets of a large city ? Evidently it would 
 require for such a task a gentleman whose connection with the business of buying 
 and selling produce was carried on under a feeling of the dignity and importance of 
 his vocation. Such a man the writer of this singular and highly interesting volume 
 seems to be. Claiming fraternity with the important guild of butchers, having for 
 years carried on the business with honor and profit, having also distinguished himself 
 as a good citizen, useful in many local enterprises, Colonel Thomas F. De Voe has 
 made of this work a labor of love and pride. It is, in fact, a minute and faithful his- 
 tory of the New York markets from the earliest times, embracing therein matter of 
 local interest and reminiscences of the progress of the great city, which very fitly 
 illustrate the character of a people with whom good eating is a prime necessity. It is 
 quaint, and in many particulars strange, illustrating the character of the people who 
 bought at the markets as much as it does the characters of farmers, truckmen, fish- 
 ermen, and butchers, who supplied the wants of a large population. There are many 
 persons of antiquarian tastes to whom this singular book will be attractive. We 
 recommend it to them as an oddity in history, original in the design, curious in par- 
 ticulars, and evidently exhausting in its treatment of the topics chosen. The second 
 volume, which is now in preparation, will be devoted to the history of the markets in 
 other cities than New York, including our own. From the industry and assiduity 
 displayed in volume first we can confidently promise that very much of our market 
 history long since forgotten will be brought to light and placed in such a permanent 
 form that it will in all time to come prove a permanent and enduring record for pres- 
 grvation and instruction." — Philadelphia Sunday Dispatch. 
 
 " Tom Quick says: ' We have many items of great interest to the old and new 
 
10 
 
 butchers that we have, in the kindest manner, been allowed to take from the notes 
 of an Old Sport who has not spent his days nor nights in idleness, but to the end that 
 he might serve up a rich feast of facts concerning the butchers of Gotham, from the 
 year 1656 to the present day ; his searches among bygone carcasses have enabled him 
 to give one great work on our Markets, which is now before the public as " The 
 Market-Book," by Thomas F. De Voe, Butcher; and also caused him to declare his 
 intentions of adding another volume on the same subject up to the present time. 
 I shall freely, by his permission, use portions of the rich cream the book is so full 
 of. No butcher, or butcher's family, should be without this great work of a " boss " 
 upon their reading- table.' " — New York Leader. 
 
 " ' The Market-Book,' containing a historical account of the Public Markets in the 
 cities of New York, Boston, Philadelphia, and Brooklyn, with a brief description of 
 every article of human food sold therein, the introduction of cattle into America, and 
 notices of many remarkable specimens, by Thomas F. De Voe, member of the New 
 York Historical Society, in 2 vols., Vol. I. (New York: printed for the author, 1862,) 
 is a very notable and meritorious work. The author, a self-made man, long engaged 
 in the State militia of New York, and himself practically conversant with and mov- 
 ing in the sphere of the market, has amassed here an amount of curious and interest- 
 ing information truly prodigious. The first volume is occupied with a minute sketch 
 of each of the many New York markets, from the earliest period of the settlement of 
 the country to the present time. Mr. De Voe has evidently been at an infinite 
 amount of pains to sift and winnow the early records, the journals of courts, the city 
 newspapers, the law reports, private letters and collections, public libraries and ar- 
 chives, histories, books, tracts, petitions, and legislative proceedings ; but it is clearly 
 a work of love. We presume no history of New York has been written which contains 
 so much entertaining knowledge about early manners and customs ; the style of liv- 
 ing; the kinds of food used; public and private entertainments; price of provisions; 
 the local changes of streets, buildings, and markets ; the food, drink, and clothing of 
 the people; anecdotes of the colonial era; history of the wars, panics, taxes, laws, 
 morals, crimes, punishments of different eras. The journal of Winthrop, the local 
 histories of Wood, and other English chroniclers, are the things one is reminded of in 
 reading Mr. De Voe. Every page has on it something worth knowing and worth 
 remembering. A careful index of the butchers whose names occur in the work, and 
 a general index, add much to the practical utility of the book. We commend ' The 
 Market-Book' (Vol. I.) to our local readers in New York and the vicinity. Some 
 of the novi homines may wince under the publication of the fact that their ancestors 
 held the very necessary and respectable post of the Fulton, Washington, or Tomp- 
 kin's commissariats of the city: but those who measure family renown by use, and 
 who believe that 
 
 ' Honor and shame from no condition rise ; 
 Act well your part, there all the honor lies,' 
 
 will not be ashamed to be descended from the honorable and benevolent butchers of 
 New York, among whom are as fine men as any in this world. Mr. De Voe's work 
 will have a wide and interested circulation. Thousands in each of the great cities, 
 whose annals, in this respect, he proposes to record, will wish to see such a mass of 
 valuable and curious information." — Christian Inquirer. 
 
 " The first volume is a history of the public markets of New York, with sketches 
 of many of the principal butchers, from the earliest time down to some now living. 
 Statements and descriptions are introduced, interspersed with anecdotes, so that one 
 
11 
 
 gains a very clear idea of the habits of the people, the laws of the city, and the loca- 
 tion of the markets ; and in whatever has any connection with the sale of human 
 food, the book is particularly fall and clear. The history of public buildings, streets, 
 squares, ferries, of the origin of now prominent and wealthy families, of the Revolu- 
 tionary War, and of important civil and military events as successively they had a 
 bearing on the craft, give to the work ever-varying interest. We have perused it 
 with very great pleasure and instruction, and find everywhere evidence of great dis- 
 crimination and accuracy. It has especial interest to the agriculturist, because not 
 only the first introduction of neat cattle and small cattle into New Netherlands is re- 
 corded, but changes in the character of market stock are noted, as well as record 
 made of the most notable animals; and in a subsequent volume, in which histories of 
 the markets of other cities also will be given, Mr. De Voe purposes to discuss the ways 
 in which various kinds of meat, and other produce, are brought to market, and to de- 
 scribe every article of food sold in the public market, the manner of its production, 
 and how it is prepared for sale." — American Agriculturist. 
 
 " Volume I. of this work has lately been published, and is in many respects a re- 
 markable production. Going back to the earliest period of the settlement of this city, 
 it gives the origin and progress of all the market-places, together with a detailed ac- 
 count of the manner of doing business, the habits, customs, and laws of the people 
 through many generations, historical reminiscences of all the prominent market peo- 
 ple and dealers, and a full and faithful history of all events and places in any manner 
 relating to markets or market business. As a part of the history of the city of New 
 York, it deserves more than usual attention, covering, as it does, a field hitherto un- 
 explored ; and the fund of biographical lore and anecdote, with which it is liberally 
 interspersed, makes it one of the most readable books of the times. To the old New 
 Yorker it must be of great value and interest, and many of the aristocratic leaders of 
 the present generation can not fail to trace back their lineage to some of the many 
 hundred names among the honored class of butchers. As a historian, Mr. De Voe is 
 accurate and truthful, and the whole work shows a labored research ; undoubtedly a 
 labor of love, yet one that has required close application and a deal of hard work. We 
 shall welcome with pleasure the appearance of the second volume, but sincerely 
 hope that it will not end the historical writings of such an agreeable and instructive 
 writer." — The Horticulturist. 
 
 " The butchers of New York are and have always been a most respectable and 
 flourishing class in society. Generally honest, intelligent, independent men, with 
 proverbially robust health and remarkable physical development, the ' butcher boys ' 
 have never failed to exert a weighty influence in the community. It is not strange, 
 then, that they should have their historian, and that he should be a prominent mem- 
 ber of their own order. To be a good butcher is a good thing ; but to be a good 
 butcher and a good author at the same time does not often happen, even in New 
 York. Col. Thos. F. De Voe, of Jefferson Market, is well known as a prince among 
 the butchers. He has a*lso made his mark as a military man, having won himself 
 a good name by the excellent state of discipline and drill to which he brought a regi- 
 ment of militia mostly composed of stalwart butchers. Once or twice he has appeared 
 at the Historical Society as a reader of a paper on the great men among the butchers 
 in past days. But now he comes before the public as a full-fledged author in an en- 
 tertaining volume of 621 pages, giving a historical account of the public markets in 
 this city from the earliest record to the present time, with personal notices of many 
 remarkable men in his line of business. 
 
 " This is only the first volume of the work. In a second, Col. De Voe proposes at 
 
12 
 
 some future time to give similar accounts of the markets of Boston, Philadelphia, and 
 Brooklyn, and of every article of human food sold therein. In the volume at present 
 issued, the Colonel has done himself infinite credit, and has managed to invest with 
 interest a naturally rather dry subject to any but the antiquarian. From piles of 
 musty old documents, family memoranda, society archives, etc., he has extracted 
 notices of over twelve hundred butchers, from Wm. Clasen, Gerit Jansen Roos, and 
 Jan Van Haerlan, who were the first sworn butchers T appointed in November, 1656, 
 to the Hardenbrooks, who were the lessees of Harlem Market in 1857. Many of these 
 butchers were notable men in their day, and some of them rose to high public posi- 
 tions. Not a few of them furnish Col. De Voe with material for interesting anecdotes, 
 and all seem worthy of being dragged from the obscurity in which they have so long 
 been hidden from public notice. 
 
 " "With indefatigable industry and perseverance, Col. De Voe appears to have col- 
 lected almost every particular in regard to the public markets and market-places of 
 this city. His book is a feast for the lover of quaint accounts of the way things were 
 done two hundred years ago, and is a capital illustration of the gradual progress of 
 this city from the crude matter-of-fact simplicity of the days of ' the Company's store,' 
 to the polish of the present day. It abounds in extracts from documents, and many 
 of the transactions of its characters are told in their own language, with faithful ad- 
 herence to grammar, orthography, and style." — Evening Express. 
 
 " * The Market-Book,' giving a historical account of the markets of our city, from 
 their foundation ; that is, altogether covering a period from 1625 to 1861. This sur- 
 vey is not barrenly rendered ; it is constantly enlivened by quaint extracts from the 
 ancient records, anecdotes of the trade, stories of the olden days of the town, mad-cap 
 frolics, and exploits of heroes of the stall. With these, however, we have the solid 
 history carefully prepared, for Mr. De Voe is a most diligent collector, who traces up 
 every fact and incident to their utmost source. He writes without affectation or at- 
 tempt at finery ; and has really furnished one of the most agreeable, useful, and in- 
 structive of all our volumes of local history ; and has inseparably connected his name 
 with the future renown of his native city." — The New-Yorker. 
 
 " This is a most curious contribution to local history; but when the history of the 
 New York markets affords matter for a volume of over six hundred pages, it was 
 well worth the writing, and the task could not have fallen into better hands than 
 those of the painstaking, industrious, and discriminating author of this work, who 
 proudly styles himself ' Butcher,' in his preface to his literary labor. The matter is 
 purely history of New York city; and in treating of the various markets, the author 
 gives, to a considerable extent, the history of the city itself, especially of its social 
 life." — Historical Magazine. 
 
 " It is not often that bullocks and books share pretty equally the attention of one 
 man. The slaughtering of beeves and the writing of books are not generally re- 
 garded as congenial occupations, albeit authors in the main have no antipathy to 
 beef, and are often indebted to ' sheepskin ' for a covering. But this is an age of 
 progress, and the same hand that profitably wields the cleaver now gracefully guides 
 the pen. There lies before us a very handsomely printed octavo volume of some six 
 hundred and twenty pages, bearing the title '■ The Market -Book, containing a histor- 
 ical account of the public markets in the cities of New York, Boston, Philadelphia, 
 &nd~Brooklyn, with a brief description of eveiy article of human food sold therein ; 
 the introduction of cattle in America, and notices of many remarkable specimens.' 
 The author is Thomas F. De Voe, who signs himself { Butcher,' is a member of the 
 
13 
 
 New York Historical Society, and holds also the military rank of Colonel. All hail 
 to the cleaver and the pen ! Who will deny that the world moves, and that butchers 
 keep it moving ? Hurra for the union of butchering and book making ! Success to 
 the man who slaughters cattle, but gives life to history. 
 
 " Nay, stop, Mr. Cynic. We do not mean that ' The Market-Book ' is a specimen 
 of butchery in book-making. Far from it. That Col. De Voe — a modest claim to 
 descent from De Foe, doubtless — lacks Addison's purity and Junius's classic force of 
 diction we will admit. That the supervision of some one practiced in the art of com- 
 position would have in some respects improved our author's style, we will not deny. 
 But then the work would have been no longer the sole production of ' Thomas F. De 
 Voe, Butcher,' which mades it as unique as it is meritorious. Very quaintly and 
 pleasantly does the Colonel tell us how the author grew up side by side with the 
 butcher, giving him pleasant thoughts and occupations in return for savory steaks 
 and juicy roasting pieces; for as it ever happens in this mundane sphere, the latter 
 has the larger share of the good things of this life. The butcher became rich and 
 plethoric; the author would only have nibbled his pen in the vain search for nutri- 
 tious juices. But with a well-filled larder at all times accessible, the author set him- 
 self cheerfully and industriously to work, and the result is this ' first ' of we know not 
 how many volumes of a really valuable and interesting ' historical account ' of an 
 institution to which we are all immensely indebted." — Commercial Advertiser. 
 
 " This work is in two volumes, and Vol. No. I. is before us. It is a very singular 
 volume. In the first place the title-page has no punctuation marks at all ; in the sec- 
 ond place the preface is as full of them as if they had been sprinkled from a pepper- 
 box. As for the literary contents of the volume, we may justly say that they are 
 written in a plain, unpretending, very intelligible style, and narrate in an interesting 
 manner the history of various markets. The narration is rendered the more en- 
 tertaining because the author indulges in a multitude of amusing episodes, and when 
 carried away by an incidental suggestion elaborates it to its fullest extent, returning 
 subsequently to his original starting-point. Thus the ' Markets ' become a series of 
 pegs on which are hung a world of curious old facts and singular reminiscences. Mr. 
 De Voe has made a useful and agreeable volume, and we trust that No. II. will pos- 
 sess the same elements of value and popularity." — The Times and Messenger. 
 
 " The leisure hours of the author during the intervals of business as a practical 
 market-man in Jefferson Market have been devoted to the preparation of this work. 
 He has sought his materials in the collections of the New York Historical Society, 
 and numerous other authentic sources, and with the genuine enthusiasm of the anti- 
 quary, has spared neither time nor labor in the prosecution of his researches. The 
 volume abounds in curious details of .the olden time, and places the manners and 
 customs of the early settlers of Manhattan in a clear and interesting light, besides 
 giving a complete historical view of the specific subject to which it is devoted." — 
 Daily Tribune. 
 
 " The work will consist of two volumes, and the first, which is just issued, is de- 
 voted to the markets of this city, from its settlement to the present time. One of the 
 most interesting features of the book is the personal sketches of the old burgher 
 butchers, who occupied stalls in the Old Slip and Fly Market in the early part of the 
 last century. The entire contents, indeed, possess great interest, and are valuable 
 additions to our local history. Colonel De Voe has executed his work in a successful 
 manner, and given a plain, concise, and reliable account of his subject. The work is 
 worthy of a place in the library of every Knickerbocker in the land. We cordially 
 
14 
 
 commend the book to our readers. The worthy author has several times read papers 
 on the subject before the New York Historical Society, which have elicited much at- 
 tention. He is another instance of what may be accomplished by industry, persever- 
 ance, and talents." — Home Journal. 
 
 " The following communication, which will be read with interest, is from an eru- 
 dite and able pen, and treats upon a subject both uniqtie and piquant. We are no 
 believers in the aristocracy of wealth, and conceive that no affluent or eminent man 
 ought to be ashamed of his ancestors because they earned an honest living by their 
 industry. 'Honor and shame from no condition rise,' says the poet; and we agree 
 with him. There are people, though, who go into agonies over their recollections of 
 the social status of their grandfathers, and no doubt all such will deem our correspond- 
 ent very just in his quaint observations: 
 
 " To the Editors of the Sunday Times : 
 
 " Gentlemen, — I have just arisen from the perusal of a very singular sort of 
 book lately published by one Thomas F. De Voe, ' member of the New York Histori- 
 cal Society, etc.,' as he signs himself on the title-page, and ' Butcher,' as he writes 
 after his signature to the preface. The work in question is called ' The Market- 
 Book,' and professes to contain ' a historical account of the public markets in the 
 cities of New York, Boston, Philadelphia, and Brooklyn, &c, &c, &c.' The author 
 appears to have taken a great deal of pains to gather facts and dates, and I have no 
 doubt that his book will be treasured up as a valuable contribution to local history. 
 His researches have led him into many interesting fields of knowledge, and occasion- 
 ally he digresses from the main subject in a most agreeable manner and with very 
 entertaining results. 
 
 " It seems to me, however, that he might have spared the feelings of several of the 
 first families in New York by omitting to mention some disagreeable and humiliat- 
 ing facts. He treats genealogy as he would an ox. He bleeds, cuts, dissects, and 
 flays without remorse. Without the slightest regard for the sensitive feelings of the 
 present generation, he publishes to the world — and gives names and dates, tool — 
 that many of our wealthiest citizens, residing in the Fifth Avenue, or living in luxury 
 abroad, are descended from butchers ! 
 
 " Now, you will allow, Messrs. Editors, that a man is not responsible, morally, so- 
 cially, or otherwise, for the conduct of his grandfather. If my grandfather chose the 
 trade of a butcher, why should I be blamed for it ? This is my case exactly. My 
 father's father was a butcher, and, just as my family had almost outlived the disa- 
 greeable memory, along comes this ' member of the New York Historical Society — 
 Thomas F. De Voe, Butcher,'' and blurts out the whole thing before the world. He 
 deliberately puts upon record a fact which I have always endeavored to keep from 
 my children, and of which my very wife was ignorant until she saw my grandfather's 
 name conspicuously paraded in the book. 
 
 " There may be no remedy for this outrage. The book may not be libelous. The 
 law may give me no relief. If I were to sue Mr. De Voe, he might admit the pub- 
 lication, and justify, as the lawyers call it, by proving my paternal ancestor's trade, 
 which would only give greater notoriety to a circumstance I had hoped might pass 
 out of human recollection. Besides, there might.be two or three butchers on the 
 jury, and then my chance for damages would be small indeed. 
 
 " -All I can do, therefore, is to denounce the author of ' The Market-Book ' as a reck- 
 less disturber of family pride. In behalf of many proud and wealthy families of 
 New York, I denounce him. He might have told the world all about Bear Market 
 
15 
 
 and Vlie Market, when they were built, where they stood, &c. ; but he should have 
 kept to himself the names of the men who sold meat there. He had no right to re- 
 mind us that our grandfathers trundled mutton to market in a wheelbarrow, and then 
 carried it to their customers on a wooden tray. The cause of historical truth, for 
 which Mr. De Voe affects so much veneration, would have been quite as well served 
 had he omitted names and disagreeable details. It is to be hoped that these sugges- 
 tions will, in the next edition of his book, receive the attention to which they are en- 
 titled. Should they be disregarded, I now give him due notice and timely warning 
 that I shall not be responsible for the consequences. Your obedient servant, 
 
 "An Indignant Gentleman. 
 " Gramercy Park, March 11, 1862." 
 
 —The Times and Messenger, 
 

 
 
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