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 Cluip,. ._•::_. Copyright No.. 
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 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 
 
How to Grow Celery 
 
 ANYWHERE. 
 
 Giving the Principles which Govern the Growth of Celery, 
 
 BY 
 
 PETER J. SGHUUR, 
 
 Kalamazoo, Mich. 
 
 
 All Rights Reserved ^'^^''^^^^^^ }l ?>/ 
 
 UNION SEED CO., Seed Growers, / 
 
 Kalamazoo, Mich. 
 
 \ 
 
Copyright 1896, 
 
 BY Peter J. Schuur, 
 
 Kalamazoo, Mich. 
 
 sV>^ 
 
 Bontanical Description:^'' Apium Graveolens. Nat. Ord- 
 Unibelliferce. Celery is a native of Holland and England, and being 
 found there in marshy places and ditches near the sea coast. It is 
 a biennial. In its wild state two kinds are found, the white and red. 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 IN presenting this work to the pubHc I trust it 
 will be the means of assisting my fellow 
 market gardeners, as well as private parties, to 
 grow that most delicious of all vegetables, 
 Celery. Being here in this great Celery grow- 
 ing district, and growing it to a certain extent 
 myself for fifteen years, I deem myself compe- 
 tent to write such a work. The teachings in 
 this book are given from a standpoint of experi- 
 ence and close observations, and there is nothing 
 theoretically or imaginary in it, as has been the 
 case with some writers. This book gives all 
 details however small, and it is sent forth with 
 the hope that it will not only be kindly received 
 but may serve to promote the growth of celery. 
 
 PETER J. SCHUUR, 
 Kalamazoo, Mich., 1896. 
 
CELERY CULTURE. 
 
 I. 
 
 How TO Test Seeds. 
 
 The testing of seed is a very simple but 
 necessary process and may be done as follows: 
 Sow loo seeds in a shallow pan, or basin, filled 
 with mellow earth, covering them with the earth 
 from ViQ to ys of an inch. Water sparingly, 
 just enough to keep them moist, and keep them 
 warm. In from 14 to 21 days the seed will come 
 up; count the seeds that failed and plant your 
 seed in the seed bed accordingly. Planting the 
 seed too thickly will thus be avoided. 
 
 The following is another quick way of test- 
 ing the life of seed: Throw a number of seeds 
 on a hot cook stove. Be sure that the stove is 
 hot, and every seed that has life in it will pop. 
 
 Still another way is to put a layer of cotton 
 batting in a bowl or small milk pan, sprinkle with 
 lukewarm water, drop 100 seeds on the batting 
 and cover with another layer of batting. Lay a 
 pane of glass over the basin and keep moist and 
 
CELERY CULTURE. 
 
 warm. After about 15 days remove the top 
 layer. If it is found that the seed is not sprouted 
 either it has been kept too cold, too hot, or it is 
 worthless. If the seed has been kept too hot, 
 the test is of no value and should be applied 
 again. If the seed has been kept too cold, set 
 aside for another five or ten days, after which 
 examine it again. If the seeds are then found 
 sprouted, take account of the number that failed 
 and plant the seed bed accordingly. 
 
 Perhaps it is unnecessary to add that the 
 object of these tests is to determine how thickly 
 to plant the seed in the seed bed. 
 
 II. 
 
 What Varieties are Best Adapted to 
 Different Climates. 
 
 It is impossible to tell, with absolute cer- 
 tainty, what variety of celery would best be 
 planted any year. 
 
 Each variety is best adapted to some par- 
 ticular kind of season, especially in respect to the 
 amount of rainfall during the season. But the 
 seasons, in the same locality, even, are as varia- 
 ble as the winds. Therefore, the best that can 
 
CELERY CULTURE. 
 
 be done is to give all the information possible 
 for an average season. 
 
 For states in the same latitude as Kalama- 
 zoo, Mich., and having about the same rainfall. 
 White Plume is best for summer and early fall 
 use; but for late fall and winter, the green varie- 
 ties should be planted. The tender White 
 Plume will not stand very dry weather, or very 
 cold, and should be out of the way before freez- 
 ing weather sets in. If it cannot be sold quick 
 enough to be out of the way by that time it 
 should be trenched and stored. 
 
 • In Southern and arid states, where irrigation 
 must be depended upon for moisture, the green 
 varieties, such as the Giant Paschal, the Boston 
 Market, and others equally hardy would better 
 be planted. These kinds will best stand frost 
 and hot, dry winds. They should be planted 
 quite early, as they are of slower growth than the 
 Golden Heart, Perfection-Heartwell, Kalama- 
 zoo, etc. 
 
 III. 
 
 How TO Prepare the Seed Bed on Upland, 
 Clay, Sand, Etc. 
 
 This is by no means an easy matter. Such 
 soil should be mixed with black muck, leaf mold, 
 
CELERY CULTURE. 
 
 and old dung, from three to four years old. 
 About one part of old dung should be mixed 
 with three parts of the original soil. 
 
 Another good way to prepare the bed is to 
 mix swamp earth, if any can be obtained, with 
 an equal quantity of the upland soil. The bed 
 should be prepared during the fall, and should 
 be made in a low spot, not subject, however, to 
 washings from higher places. In the spring, 
 about the ist of May for this latitude, the seed 
 should be sown. Before sowing, the bed should 
 be raked level. If it is desired that the plants 
 stand broadcast, sow the seed in that way and 
 rake it in. 
 
 But it is usually more desirable that the 
 plants stand in rows, in which case the seed 
 must be sown in shallow trenches yi. an inch 
 deep, and covered from J^ to ^ inch with mel- 
 low earth, free from stones and lumps. To cover 
 the seed sow the earth on, but if very mellow it 
 may be raked on with the head of a garden rake. 
 After sowing the seed roll the bed with a heavy 
 'garden roller, or tramp it down with the feet. 
 (See chapter V.) 
 
CELERY CULTURE. 
 
 IV. 
 
 How TO Prepare the Seed Bed on Low or 
 Very Wet Land. 
 
 The seed bed may be prepared on low or 
 very wet land, but not in close proximity to 
 springs; in such a place the young plants would 
 get chilled in early spring. See to it that the 
 bed is well spaded. Use only well rotted ma- 
 nure, and use it sparingly; it should be spaded 
 under well to avoid burning the plants. As a 
 rule plants do better on low, swampy, but well 
 drained land, than on upland. Celery is a native 
 of such ground. Tramp the bed down well, as 
 recommended in the next chapter; it will keep 
 the hot sun out, the bed will be cooler, and the 
 plants will not burn so quickly. 
 
 V. 
 
 How TO Avoid Sprinkling the Seed Bed. 
 
 By very simple management it will not be 
 necessary to sprinkle the seed bed in any kind of 
 weather, especially if the bed is made of black 
 muck. Pull on a pair of old shoes without heels 
 and tramp the bed down even at all places. A 
 pair of old rubber boots without heels may be 
 
lO CELERY CULTURE. 
 
 used with good effect. The bed should be 
 tramped immediately after the seed is sown and 
 not left to dry out before the tramping is done. 
 (But do not tramp it while very wet, as it will 
 then bake and become sour.) A bed thus tramped 
 need not be sprinkled, even though it 
 appear dry on top. By careful observation it 
 will be found that there is a greenish, dry crust 
 on top, due to the hot sun and the acid in the 
 soil. This crust will protect the bed from exces- 
 sive heat of the sun, but will in no way injure the 
 plants. As a rule, the plants in these tramped 
 seed beds are a little later. However, the time 
 saved in sprinkling will amply repay all trouble 
 of tramping. 
 
 Though the bed be prepared on upland, it, 
 also, should be tramped as described above. If 
 too dry, wet it thoroughly with the sprinkler or 
 hose, then, after the surplus water has run off or 
 settled away, tramp the bed down as already 
 directed. After the plants are up, if the bed 
 appear to be too dry, wet it thoroughly and tramp 
 it. No injury need be done to the plants, if care be 
 taken and shoes without heels be used. If the 
 bed seems dry, tramp it immediately after a 
 rain. Before pulling plants from one of these 
 
CELERY CULTURE. II 
 
 tramped seed beds, wet that part of it from which 
 the plants are to be taken. Otherwise, what 
 are sometimes called the working roots of the 
 plants, may be injured, and without them it is 
 difficult to start the plants. 
 
 VI. 
 
 How TO Get Strong, Stocky Plants. 
 
 When the plants are about two inches high, 
 thin them out so that there are about five or six 
 to the square inch. Before thinning, cut them 
 back a little with a knife or a pair of shears. 
 
 This should be repeated as often as it 
 appears that the plants are crowding one 
 another. Cutting the plants back occasionally 
 admits the air to circulate freely among them 
 and will insure healthy, stocky plants, well rooted 
 and that can stand trans-planting at any time. 
 
 Of course, in trans-planting, the ground 
 where the plants are trans-planted should be 
 made wet as directed in another chapter 
 
12 CELERY CULTURE. 
 
 VII. 
 
 How TO Raise Two Crops of Plants on the 
 Same Seed Bed. 
 
 Where land is cheap there is no need of 
 raising two crops on the same bed; but where 
 rent is high and places suitable for beds are lim- 
 ited, it may be desirable to do so. It has been 
 done by the writer many times. The first seed 
 should be sown in March in a well prepared bed, 
 covered with ordmary hot-bed sash. If hot- 
 bed sash cannot be had, plant-bed cloth, tacked 
 to home-made frames will answer the purpose. 
 About the 15th of May the first crop of plants 
 will be ready to be trans-planted and should be 
 set out as soon as possible after they are large 
 enough. As soon as the first crop has been 
 removed from the bed, clean it of weeds, level 
 with a rake or other implement, and sow it again 
 with sprouted seed. 
 
 (For directions how to sprout seed, see next 
 chapter.) 
 
 After covering the seed from ]^ to z/^ oi an 
 inch with mellow earth it should be well sprink- 
 led so that no dry places remain underneath. 
 Then the bed should be tramped down as solid 
 as possible, as directed in chapter V. 
 
CELERY CULTURE. I3 
 
 If the bed should need a httle shading to 
 prevent the plants from burning, the best shad- 
 ing material is plant-bed cloth, the cheese cloth 
 grade used by tobacco growers to protect tobacco 
 plants from frost. The cloth should be tacked to 
 home-made sash, and the sash should be laid on 
 about 9 o'clock in the morning and removed 
 about 4 in the afternoon. Judgment should be 
 used in shading. No shading at all should be 
 used unless there is danger of the plants being 
 burned by the hot sun. Keep on shading till 
 the plants can stand the heat of the sun. 
 
 If the medium grade plant-bed cloth is at 
 hand, use it for shading. But if no plant bed 
 cloth is to be had and there is danger of burning 
 the plants, place strips across the frames and on 
 these lay brush. Freshly cut brush with the 
 leaves on is preferable, as not so much of it is 
 required to produce the desired shade. The evi- 
 dence that the plants are burning is unmistak- 
 able. The hot soil cooks the tender stem just at 
 the surface of the ground and the plants droop 
 over and lie on the ground. If, here and there, 
 a plant is seen lying on the bed, it is time to 
 begin shading in order to save the plants. 
 
14 CELERY CULTURE. 
 
 VIII. 
 
 How TO Get the Plants Up Before the 
 Weeds Come Up. 
 
 Get a large basin or pan, fill with nice mel- 
 low earth, free from stones, and moisten it well; 
 then put in the seed you expect to sow and mix 
 thoroughly with the soil. Keep it moist and 
 warm, but not too warm. After lo or 15 days 
 the seed should be sprouted. If the seed is good, 
 but is not sprouted by that time, it has been 
 kept either too warm or too cold. If the former, 
 it will never grow, so throw it out and try again. 
 If the latter, set aside till it does sprout. 
 
 As soon as the seed is sprouted, sow it in 
 drills and tramp down as already directed in 
 chapter V. Under ordinary circumstances the 
 plants will be up in a week, and before weeds 
 make their appearance. This method should be 
 resorted to in every weedy soil. 
 
 If the tiny little plants come up before the 
 weeds, they have the advantage of the weeds for 
 quite a time, till they have grown stronger and 
 can stand weeding better. If they have to be 
 weeded while puny, many a small plant will be 
 pulled up with the weeds. If they are thick in 
 
CELERY CULTURE. 
 
 the bed the pulhng up of a few does not matter 
 so much ; but if they are thin, then every plant 
 should remain. 
 
 Here in Kalamazoo, where the soil is wet 
 and swampy, a good method, and one which the 
 writer adopts, is as follows: 
 
 First, level the seed bed with a rake, then 
 stretch a garden line across it and tramp furrows 
 about a foot wide and a foot apart. In these 
 furrows sow sprouted seed and cover it ^^ or ^ 
 of an inch with soil raked from between the fur- 
 rows with the head of the rake. If the seed is 
 sown broadcast, tramp the whole bed down even 
 as already directed. Such a bed will become 
 green in a week or more and will be in good con- 
 dition to stand the excessive heat of the sun. 
 
 Watch the seed bed and, if necessary, tramp 
 it again, though the plants have been up two or 
 three weeks or more. As previously instructed, 
 tramp the bed after a rain, in case it needs 
 tramping; but if no rain falls, then soak the bed 
 with water and tramp after the water has settled 
 away. No injury to the plants will result if the 
 tramping be carefully done. 
 
l6 CELERY CULTURE. 
 
 IX. 
 
 How TO Get Early Plants Without Hot Beds. 
 
 This may be done by using plant-bed cloth. 
 Tack the cloth to unglassed sash, or frames, 
 made of strips of wood. Medium grade cloth 
 will do, but heavy grade is better. The cloth 
 
 Frame of Plant-Bed Cloth. 
 
 will protect the plants against moderate frost, 
 but in time of severe cold they should be further 
 protected by straw or matting laid over the cloth. 
 This early protection should be removed, how- 
 ever, as soon as the weather will permit. 
 
 X. 
 
 To Grow Early Celery. 
 
 Early celery is planted the same way as the 
 late crop, in rows from 45^ to 5 feet apart, with 
 the plants from 5 to 6 inches apart in the rows. 
 The plants should be set carefully to avoid bruis- 
 ing. The ground must be well pulverized and 
 level. The rows should be prepared by stretch- 
 
CELERY CULTURE. 17 
 
 ing a line and tramping down with the feet cross- 
 wise of the hne one way, but in coming back 
 with one foot lengthwise. Remove the Hne and 
 wet down the rows. A good way to do this is to 
 take the sprinkHng attachment off the water can 
 and use the can with the open spout. Soak the 
 rows thoroughly before setting the plants. Wet 
 them until there are no dry places underneath 
 and until the holes made for the plants will stand 
 open. When the soil is dry much wetting will 
 be necessary, but when it is already quite moist, 
 less will be required. In very dry weather, the 
 plants should be sprinkled, ^vhich should always 
 be done towards evening. Perhaps it is unnec- 
 essary to say that the sprinkling attachment 
 should be put on the can for sprinkling. If the 
 sprinkling be done at evening, the plants will 
 have the whole night to revive. If, however, it 
 appear that the hot sun is getting to much for the 
 plants, get out the boards and commence shad- 
 ing at once. The process of shading has already 
 been described in chapter VII., which see. 
 
 In this chapter it has been assumed that the 
 ground had been already prepared for the trans- 
 planting of the plants. In following chapters we 
 shall consider how the ground should be thus 
 prepared. 
 
l8 CELERY CULTURE. 
 
 XI. 
 
 The Varieties Adapted to Early and 
 Medium Early Crops. 
 
 For very early crops, such varieties as the 
 Golden Heart, the Kalamazoo, the Perfection- 
 Heartwell, are well adapted; for medium 
 early, plant such varieties as the White Plume 
 and the Golden Self-Bleaching. But in a very 
 dry climate, where irrigation must be depended 
 upon, plant the varieties recommended in chap- 
 ter II. 
 
 XII. 
 
 Two OR More Crops in the Same Field. 
 
 If only one crop is to be raised on the same 
 field, it can be planted quite close, with the rows 
 not more than 4 or 4^ feet apart. But for two 
 crops on the same field, the rows of the first 
 should be at least 6 feet apart. Later, the sec- 
 ond crop should be planted between the rows of 
 the first. The first should be planted early in 
 May; the second, by the middle of June. The 
 first is taken out by the middle of July. Then 
 if it is desired to raise a third crop on the same 
 ground, it must be planted as soon as the first 
 
CELERY CULTURE. IQ 
 
 crop is harvested, in the place from which it has 
 been removed. 
 
 For this late or third crop, plant the Giant 
 Paschal or Boston Market varieties. These 
 kinds will stand the late frosty weather better 
 than any other sort. The second crop must be 
 harvested early; and to prevent freezing, the 
 third crop must be hilled up as soon as the sec- 
 ond is taken out. 
 
 If only two crops are grown, then there is no 
 particular necessity of getting the first crop out 
 before the 15th or 20th of August. It should be 
 out by that time, however. It appears that 
 blight attacks this older crop then much quicker 
 than it does the youager celery, planted later. 
 
 If celery is desired for late August or early 
 September, provide a bed of plants and get 
 them in nice growing condition, ready to be 
 transplanted about the 25th, or last of May. 
 Set them out about that time and keep them in 
 growing condition. If well worked they will 
 escape blight and celery will be had at the time 
 desired. 
 
 For particulars concerning blight, see chap- 
 ter on blight. 
 
20 
 
 CELERY CULTURE. 
 
 XIII. 
 
 Tillage in Dry Weather. 
 
 To what has already been said, in chapter 
 XII., we will add only this: On upland the 
 plants should be set deep, and it they show 
 signs of being too dry, water them thoroughly. 
 One thorough watering will be more effective 
 than five half done. To set the plants deep 
 means to set them in furrows 6 inches deep or 
 deeper. If they are set thus, when they are 
 watered, the water will run towards the plants 
 where it is needed. 
 
 Use the Planeit Jr., double or single wheel 
 
 Stirring the Soil. 
 
 hoe, close to the rows after watering to prevent 
 the earth from baking. Of course, the hoeing 
 should not be done until half a day or a day after 
 
CELERY CULTURE. 21 
 
 the plants have been watered. This will give 
 the water time to settle. Water as often as the 
 plants show that they need it, or, better still 
 examine the soil and water the plants as often 
 as it appears to be dry. The growth of the ciop 
 is thus prevented from receiving any check. 
 Checks in the growth of celery afford opportunity 
 for blight to attack it. 
 
 If the plants seem to be growing out little or 
 not at all, but this is not due to lack of moisture, 
 then drill in a fertilizer at the next watering. 
 Drill it in just before watering so that it may be 
 dissolved, washed down and act upon the roots 
 of the plants. You will thus renew the growth 
 of the plants and prevent blight in seasons of 
 blight. 
 
 XIV. 
 
 Ditches. 
 
 Ditches are not needed on upland to any 
 extent. Good open furrows that will carry off 
 the surplus water from heavy rains is about all 
 that is needed. But on low land ditching is a 
 matter of much importance. 
 
 On low land, where ditches are needed to 
 carry off the water from rains, springs and other 
 
22 CELERY CULTURE. 
 
 sources, it is advisable to run the ditches length- 
 wise of the piece. For instance, if the patch is 
 40 rods long and 10 rods wide, dig the ditch the 
 40 rod way. Both ends being open, the ditches 
 on low land should be two feet wide and two feet 
 deep. On very wet, springy soil, make them 
 deeper and wider. Just how far apart the ditches 
 should be is difficult to tell without seeing the 
 ground. However, we will give some general 
 dii;ections. Here in Kalamazoo, Mich., there 
 are some three kinds of black muck to deal with; 
 the ordinary, dry; the quite wet; the very wet 
 and springy. On the first mentioned, the ditches 
 should be 8 or 10 rods apart; on the second they 
 should be about 4 rods apart; on the last, 2 rods. 
 We are unable to get on to the last kind here 
 with a horse, therefore, the manure must be 
 spaded under in the spring with a spading fork. 
 It costs a great deal of labor to work such patches 
 of celery ground. Here, they are depended 
 upon in August and early September. 
 
 Besides the ditches already described, there 
 must be a cross ditch at each end to carry the 
 water from the other ditches to some outlet. If 
 water stand on the patch for a couple of days it 
 will ruin the crop if the celery is well grown; but 
 
CELERY CULTURE. 23 
 
 if the plants are young they will outgrow the bad 
 effect after a Icng time. Care should be taken 
 to have ample drainage, that such a catastrophe 
 be avoided. 
 
 In very dry weather dam up the ditches on 
 the ends that no water may escape. However, 
 never allow the water to stand on a level with 
 the edge of the ditch. It may stand at the most 
 within one foot of the edge, and then for a few 
 days only. If the land gives an abundance of 
 water, let it off once in a while. Leave the ends 
 of the ditches open a few days that the surplus 
 water may run off thoroughly. 
 
 XV. 
 
 Tillage. 
 
 This has been given quite fully in preced- 
 ing chapters, therefore, I will not repeat what 
 may be found there, but will only add a few 
 words concerning weeds. 
 
 A patch of celery should be kept perfectly 
 free from weeds. They should be attended to 
 and destroyed when very small, as soon as they 
 appear. This can be done easily then by the use 
 of the hoe, wheel hoe or cultivator, and if thus 
 
24 CELERY CULTURE 
 
 attended to they will never be seen again. But 
 if they get the start of you and grow to quite a 
 size, then the best thing to do is to employ suf- 
 ficient help to pull them up and carry them off. 
 As soon as the weeding is completed, use the 
 wheel hoe to break the crust, give the celery 
 fresh air, and destroy the millions of weeds that 
 are just coming up. In case the weeds get such 
 a start that the rows of celery cannot be seen, 
 the celery is almost beyond recovery, and the 
 best thing to do is to destroy both weeds and 
 celery together and plant the field over again, if 
 not too late in the season. The new plants, if 
 kept clean, will do better than the older ones 
 choked with weeds. 
 
 XVI. 
 
 Manures and Fertilizers. 
 
 Well rotted stable manure is the best and 
 should be used in preference to fertilizers if it can 
 be had. Have it well rotted, especially if your 
 field is a dry one. On very wet soil coarser 
 manure answers the purpose. Coarse manure 
 is productive of weeds; but where the patch is 
 small weeds can be checked promptly. The 
 looseness of coarse manure is an advantage. 
 
CELERY CULTURE. 25 
 
 From 20 to 40, or even 60 loads of well rotted 
 manure may be used on an acre. It should be 
 plowed under from 5 to 6 inches and well covered. 
 
 There are so many different kinds of com- 
 mercial fertilizers on the market that it is difficult 
 to say which is the best. A good way is to test 
 several different kinds by using them on rows 
 side by side. You can thus determine what kind 
 is best adapted to your soil. Of course the fer- 
 tilizer should be drilled in deep enough to be 
 effective; and, if the weather is dry and there is 
 no prospect of a good rain soon, soak the ground 
 with water over the drills, so that the fertilizer 
 will dissolve, permeate the soil and act upon the 
 roots of the plants. Doubtless, there are, every 
 jrear, thousands of dollars' worth of fertilizers 
 ^own and drilled in that never do any good, sim- 
 ply because they are sown in dry weather and 
 the weather continues dry. Under these condi- 
 tions the fertilizer can have no effect. In pur- 
 chasing fertilizers, state to the manufacturers that 
 you wish it for growing celery, and on what kind 
 of soil you wish to use it. 
 
 Some celery growers have their fertilizers 
 manufactured for them according to a special 
 formula of their own, adapted to their soil. This 
 
26 CELERY CULTURE. 
 
 formula is determined by an analysis of the soil, 
 which will be done in most cases by the state 
 experiment station, free of cost to the applicant, 
 except transportation charges. 
 
 XVII. 
 
 Early Plants Without Expensive Hot-Beds. 
 
 Use hot-bed sash and lay them on rafters as 
 long as the sash, in the usual way. The rafters 
 should be set up in hot-house fashion with the 
 peak high enough to walk under. Such cheap 
 hot-houses are sometimes made on upland with 
 the walk in the middle dug out from 2 to 3 feet. 
 In this way the rafters need not be so steep, and, 
 therefore, the bed may be wider. Here, in Kal- 
 amazoo, on the muck, they are generally built 10 
 feet wide with a path in the middle. They should 
 be built with the length of the house, north and 
 south; and if the house is over 30 feet long it 
 should have a stove at each end. The stove 
 pipes should be close to the west side of the walk 
 and connected in the middle by a T. There 
 should be a door at each end, and if the sun is 
 very hot, the door should be open to allow a 
 draft through the house to carry off the exces- 
 
CELERY CULTURE. 27 
 
 sive heat. In a short house, in which only one 
 stove is needed, it may stand at one end and the 
 pipe go out at the other. There should be a 
 door also to avoid over heating. 
 
 Another inexpensive way of obtaining early 
 plants is to dig a hole 2 or more feet deep, fill it 
 in with fresh horse manure, build your frame over 
 it, and lay on the sash. If the heat is mostly 
 out of the manure and the temperature of it is 
 about 70°, put on your dirt and sow the seed in 
 the hot-house fashion as already described. The 
 bed needs only a little well-rotted manure to 
 make it rich. It should be worked into the soil 
 thoroughly. There should be from 5 to 7 inches 
 of dirt on top of the manure in the bottom of the 
 hole. On hot days the doors should be open or 
 the sash lifted; it may be necessary to open the 
 doors and lift the sash both. Do not allow the 
 temperature to rise above 95°. To prevent a 
 higher temperature than this, take the sash off 
 altogether, shade with brush having the green 
 leaves on, or whitewash the glass. Should the 
 temperature rise to 100° or more, the plants 
 would most likely be burned. 
 
28 
 
 CELERY CULTURE. 
 
 XVIII. 
 
 Bleaching With Dirt Without Rust. 
 
 The first thing to be done is to cultivate 
 between the rows. A Planett Jr., single or dou- 
 ble celery hiller is the best thing to use for this 
 purpose. Hill it up first about one-half, taking 
 great care not to hill up close against the plants. 
 After about a week the same operation should 1 e 
 
 Double Celery tliller. 
 
 Single Celery Hiller. 
 
 gone through with again. Take great care not to 
 bring the dirt close up against the celery. Then 
 after a week or lo days more the earth should be 
 
CELERY CULTURE. 29 
 
 drawn up close to the celery in order that it may 
 bleach quickly. After it is bleached, harvest it 
 at once and sell as soon as possible. 
 
 It is not advisable to do the final drawing up 
 of the earth to the whole crop at once, but only 
 to a row or half a row at a time, as fast as there 
 is a demand for the celery. 
 
 After the final dressing up of the earth, the 
 celery ought to be bleached in a week or so. 
 Watch closely that it does not get bleached 
 without your knowing it. The last drawing up 
 is best done by hand, with a wide-bladed hoe, 
 say about 12 to 18 inches wide, if the soil is 
 muck; if upland and rather hard a hoe 8 inches 
 wide will do. The fir^t hilling should be done 
 carefully so that no dirt may get into the heart 
 of the celery. If the ground is too dry, wait till 
 it rains so that it will pack and remain where 
 placed. If it should not rain, use boards to 
 bleach with. In autumn the soil may be 
 drawn up tight that the bleaching may be done 
 quicker. Late in the season when the ground 
 gets cooled off the bleaching takes place more 
 slowly. If there is danger of frost, hill the celery 
 up as high as possible and then pull the dirt over 
 the tops with a hoe, covering the whole thing 
 completely. 
 
30 CELERY CULTURE. 
 
 XIX. 
 
 Snow-white Bleaching Without Dirt. 
 
 If soil cannot be used on both sides of the 
 rows, some other means of bleaching must be 
 sought. 
 
 Drain tile set over the plants, one over each, 
 will bleach them very nicely and quickly, if not 
 too hot. Take the leaves in one hand and with 
 the other set the tile over the plant. Some use 
 a new bleacher made of veneering, such as berry 
 boxes are made of. It can be wound around the 
 plant like paper and tied on. It will last quite a 
 long time if used carefully, and stored as soon as 
 the bleaching is done. Still another good way is 
 to use boards. Set one on each side, draw them 
 up close, and hold them in place by cross cleats. 
 Plow with a Planett Jr., hand plow a furrow up 
 against the board on each side to exclude the air 
 and light. 
 
 Still another good way is to use matting. 
 Tie a piece around each stalk or plant. Some 
 use thick brown paper with good success. It is 
 difficult to say just what is best to use for bleach- 
 ing, but doubtless that material would best be 
 used which can be gotten the cheapest. In warm 
 
CELERY CULTURE. 3I 
 
 weather celery may be bleached white in lo or 
 15 days, and should be taken out as soon as 
 bleached. Do not put any more in the bleach 
 every day than there is demand for. This will 
 prevent the celery from getting too ripe. Celery, 
 when too ripe, is springy, soft and unpalatable. 
 Choice celery for eating should be crisp and brit- 
 tle and snap like a pipe stem. Over-ripe celery 
 is stringy and will bend without breaking. Ex- 
 perienced celery eaters are aware of this and do 
 not want it at any price. Inexperienced people 
 think if the stalks are large and look nice it is all 
 right, while such is not the case, as the small, 
 white, brittle stalks are the choicest for eating. 
 I have had it many times, as sweet as sugar. 
 Celery is of the finest flavor in the months of 
 December, January, February and March. Some 
 growers say that it must remain in the bleaching 
 trenches long enough to have the outer leaves 
 rot off before it has attained its full, sweet flavor. 
 
 XX. 
 
 Size of Stalks for Bleaching. 
 
 This can be explained in few words. The 
 idea generally in vogue here is that celery from 
 I inch to % inch in diameter, after trimming, is 
 
32 CELERY CULTURE. 
 
 good celery. From all celery some of the leaves 
 must be trimmed, generally from 4 to 6 leaves 
 will be sufficient. We do not consider celery 
 good here if too short. It should be from 20 to 
 30 inches long, well bleached, and of the size 
 mentioned above to be considered first-class. To 
 ascertain whether the celery is large enough for 
 bleaching, go over the field occasionally, stretch- 
 ing the hand around some of the average stalks 
 and if you find them running 2 inches, or a little 
 less, in diameter, it can be considered of suffi- 
 cient size. There will be occasional small stalks, 
 which should be thrown out. We do not even 
 trim them here, but leave them on the field with 
 the trimmings; but if there is a demand for small 
 celery it can be trimmed and worked up to 
 advantage. 
 
 XXI. 
 
 When to Commence Earthing Up For 
 Winter Use. 
 
 For winter use, October is the date here, 
 farther south it can be done later, while north of 
 Kalamazoo, Mich., it should be done even earlier 
 than the date given above. To give the exact 
 
CELERY CULTURE. 33 
 
 date for each state and locality is impossible. I 
 would advise to commence hilling up about half 
 way about the last of the 3d week in September. 
 When ice forms later on of ys inch thickness, 
 hurry your celery into hills. If you have severe 
 dry weather and the weather bureau reports 
 frosts, hurry your celery into hills so it will be 
 well hilled up by the time a killing frost comes. 
 At this time it is well to apply to your nearest 
 weather signal station for daily weather reports. 
 They will be forwarded free and such reports 
 have many times saved a crop of celery, toma- 
 toes or other vegetables. While the ground is 
 dry and hot and there is frost at night, there is 
 much more danger from freezing then when the 
 ground is cold and wet. 
 
 If there is room enough between the rows 
 the banks should slope at about an angle of 32° 
 to insure perfect standing, for if too steep and 
 the earth is dry it will fall away from the stalks ; 
 the wind will also cause it to do the same thing. 
 I advise having the rows at least 5 or 6 feet 
 apart, and even 7 or 8 feet distance is still better. 
 Then you have plenty of room to make nice 
 sloping banks that will stand and it can also be 
 hilled up high enough. If you should, by error, 
 
34 CELERY CULTURE. 
 
 have the rows too close together, say less than 4 
 feet, and cannot bring the dirt high enough by a 
 celery hiller, (Planett Jr., single brings it higher 
 than any other machine that has come to our 
 notice), then the spade has to be used and the 
 dirt dug from between the rows' and set up 
 against the celery. It should be hilled up high, 
 only letting the leaves appear 2 or 3 inches 
 above the dirt. When the weather becomes 
 unsafe, it should be taken out and stored in store 
 houses built for the purpose, or in frost proof 
 trenches. A small patch may be left in the 
 ground as late as possible and then cared for 
 quickly; but when you have a large quantity I 
 advise promptness, so as not to be surprised by 
 a hard frost. In case of danger cover the tops 
 with snow or soil, being sure to use enough, or if 
 you wish to hurry it out and haven't time to trench 
 it, you can dig with plow, spading fork or regular 
 celery digger and throw the celery flat upon the 
 ground. We, as a rule, throw it between the 
 rows in the deep furrows and cover over with 
 dirt from the celery hills, next to it. It will 
 keep, if weather is cold, for quite a long time. I 
 have seen it kept from December ist to Febru- 
 ary 15th in good shape; but it needs careful 
 
CELERY CULTURE. 35 
 
 watching, and if time and weather permit should 
 be set up in trenches. In case of rain it needs 
 immediate attention, as lying in the deep furrows 
 it would be directly in the water, which it cannot 
 stand. When throwing out we cover with about 
 three inches of dirt, and if weather grows severe 
 we cover deeper with either dirt, or snow if there 
 should be any. We lay the celery straight with 
 tops all in the same direction and about 3 or 4 
 rows in one furrow. We have some trouble with 
 celery becoming crooked. In such cases it has 
 to be taken out promptly and trenched. In some 
 se.asons celery can lie a long time without becom- 
 ing crooked. The time of its becoming crooked 
 is uncertain, but it is advisable to watch it care- 
 fully and if there is a tendency to crookedness, 
 hurry it into trenches if the weather will permit. 
 It may be added, that if it is desired to bleach the 
 celery, that is if quite green when thrown out, it 
 should be set up promptly, as it will not bleach 
 well lying on the ground. 
 
 XXII. 
 
 To Earth Up in Some Climates Without 
 Trenching. 
 This is simply done by covering the banks 
 or hills over with 2, or 3 inches of dirt, or more if 
 
36 CELERY CULTURE 
 
 weather is severe. Having wide, thick banks or 
 hills on top, the rows can be covered snug and 
 deep. Of course this can only be done farther 
 south, where the ground only freezes to a depth 
 of a few inches and must be regulated by the 
 gardner's knowledge in this respect; for instance, 
 if the ground never freezes deeper than 3 inches 
 the rows should be covered about 2^ inches 
 deep, and the same rule applies if it freezes 
 deeper. If as far north as where the ground 
 freezes to a depth of 10 inches, and there is 
 plenty of room between the rows to cover them 
 up sufficiently to protect from frost, it is advis- 
 able to do so. Much work can be saved by put- 
 ting three rows together. Remove the dirt from 
 each side of the middle row, then set each of the 
 others against it. Two persons can work hand- 
 ily at this, one person setting up the stalks, the 
 other following throws up the dirt to keep it in 
 place. In this way celery can be kept a long 
 time. In this vicinity we do this from Novem- 
 ber I St to 15th, or even later, if the weather per- 
 mits. In southern Indiana this is about all the 
 protection needed, but it must be regulated by 
 the locality and the severity of the weather, as 
 no one rule will apply to all localities or seasons; 
 
CELERY CULTURE. 37 
 
 but, as a rule, a depth of 3 inches at first is suf- 
 ficient, to which more should be added as the 
 weather grows colder. The tops of the celery 
 may be touched a Httle by frost without injury; 
 in fact, the dirt may here and there be frozen to 
 the leaves, but this is the dead line, and it should 
 be prevented from going any farther by adding 
 more dirt, or snow, if the dirt is not convenient. 
 
 XXIII. 
 
 To Have Celery for Christmas. 
 
 To have celery ready for the Christmas holidays 
 with absolute certainty, it is best to have bleached 
 celery set aside for it. Early in the season, say 
 first half of November, half bleached celery can 
 be set in trenches. Set close together and cover 
 over with dirt to force it; but watch it carefully 
 and try each trench ever other day, at least. In 
 climate where celery can be left safely out of 
 doors, it is not necessary to bother with trenches. 
 All that is required is to commence bleaching by 
 hilling it up about 4 to 6 weeks before the time it 
 will be needed, and it will be ready on time. 
 Should it rust, take it out and store loose in 
 trenches or storage house. 
 
38 CELERY CULTURE. 
 
 XXIV. 
 
 To Have Celery in February, March and 
 
 April. 
 
 To have celery as late as this requires work 
 It should be taken out of the narrow trenches 
 every three or four weeks, if weather is pleasant 
 enough to allow. Lay it with the roots exposed 
 to the sun; dry it well, so that the white hairy 
 roots become entirely dried up. Repeat this as 
 soon as new white roots form ^ of an inch long. 
 In this way it can be kept until April. It is best 
 to set such celery in narrow trenches, not over 6 
 inches wide, which should be on top of the 
 ground, or rather on level ground, to avoid sur- 
 face and other water. In open weather remove 
 the covering of dirt to give the celery air; or this 
 can be accomplished by placing 3 inch tile, 
 about 10 feet apart. Set the tile so that the 
 lower end just touches the celery, and stuff the 
 top of tile with straw to prevent freezing. 
 
 It will not keep in storage houses, and it is 
 advisable not to put in more than enough for 
 two or three weeks demand. Put such in as is 
 ready for market and thus avoid the necessity of 
 taking celery from the trenches on cold days. 
 
CELERY CULTURE. 39 
 
 XXV. 
 
 How TO Build and How to Use Storage 
 
 Coops. 
 
 Storage coops may be built with either peak 
 or shed roof. Some build with shed roof with 
 one side high and the other running to within 2 
 feet of the ground; but the peak roof is prefer- 
 able and more convenient. The walls should be 
 2 feet high, and the roof of good lumber if no 
 shingles are used. It is advisable to have a dou- 
 ble, roof with 6 or 8 inches between; the space 
 should be filled with sawdust, or any other good 
 packing material. This filling is frost proof. If 
 the houses are built firm so they will not settle, 
 they look neat and tasty and their appearance 
 can be much improved by painting, which is 
 advisable in town; but in the country cheaper 
 ones can be constructed, and instead of the dou- 
 ble roof, the single roof may be covered with old 
 straw or coarse manure about a foot thick, which 
 will keep out the frost. By uncovering and taking 
 off this packing in the spring, such a house will 
 last a long time. It is not advisable to put the 
 main supply in these houses, but have the crop 
 in trenches, using the houses for about two weeks' 
 
40 CELERY CULTURE. 
 
 supply. Here in Kalamazoo such houses are 
 filled on nice days. They are also used to trim 
 in during cold weather. It is very necessary to 
 watch celery closely if left in these houses more 
 than two or three weeks. On nice days give it 
 plenty of air, as the damp, close air is injurious 
 and will cause the celery to rot. We set 
 the celery in racks or frames made from narrow 
 boards. If the house is on black muck it will 
 not need sprinkling; but on the upland the bot- 
 tom should be watered to prevent wilting of the 
 celery. If the celery is inclined to wilt, a board 
 set up against it along the path will prevent it. 
 
 XXVI. 
 
 How TO Prepare a Field on Hig^ or Low 
 
 Land. 
 
 First, level the field, then draw on the 
 manure, which should be well rotted if upland, 
 but on low, wet land, coarse horse manure seems 
 better. After spreading it should be plowed 
 under, one man plowing and another raking into 
 the furrows, which should be done very thor- 
 oughly, taking pains to follow the plow, raking 
 
CELERY CULTURE. 4I 
 
 well into the furrows; and see, also, that the 
 plow does good work, covering all of the manure. 
 After the field is plowed it should be leveled at 
 
 A Leveler. 
 
 once, and if dry, the land roller may be put on 
 also, after it has been leveled, keeping all the 
 moisture in the soil. If the supply of manure is 
 limited, there not being sufficient to spread over 
 the entire surface, it is advisable to put in 
 trenches, which is done by first plowing and lev- 
 eHng the field, then marking where it is desirable 
 to have the rows, taking pains to see that the 
 rows are straight, as a fine crop of celery in 
 crooked rows looks badly. In marking, use a 
 shovel plow, making the furrows from 7 to 9 
 inches deep. Into these furrows spread the 
 manure, which can be taken to its place in wheel- 
 barrows, or in wide-tired cart or wagon if the 
 ground is soft. After the manure is spread 
 
42 CELERY CULTURE. 
 
 evenly in the rows it should be covered with a 
 horse hoe or shovel plow, or by a wide-bladed 
 hand hoe, to a depth of 5 or 6 inches, and then 
 tramped down thoroughly to prevent its drying 
 out. It will pay to take the time to stretch a 
 line over the row to be tramped as a guide to 
 keep the rows straight. 
 
 XXVII. 
 
 How A Late Crop of Celery May be Raised 
 IN Bean Fields. 
 
 If the land is upland and rich enough, no 
 manure is necessary, but take off the top soil 
 where the rows are wanted; this will furnish a 
 nice furrow, which should be thoroughly soaked 
 with water; the furrow will hold !he water where 
 it is needed. It will need from 2 to 4 inches, 
 according to the dryness of the land on top. 
 Should it not grow well after planting, drill in 
 some fertilizer alongside of the rows. After 
 drilling in the fertilizer, soak it down with water, 
 so it will dissolve and act upon the roots. Such 
 a crop should be planted as early as possible, as 
 it grows much more slowly than in wet soil. The 
 Giant Paschal is the best variety to plant, though 
 
CELERY CULTURE. 43 
 
 a few half rows of other good green varieties are 
 advisable also. Some of which may prove to do 
 better in some soil than the first variety and can 
 afterward be planted instead. 
 
 On lowland a second crop should be worked 
 nearly in the same manner, only do not plant in 
 furrows, but as near on a level as possible, as by 
 going too deep the low damp subsoil does not 
 help the growth. In planting celery between 
 any other crop, select such crop that is out by 
 or before September so that the celery can be 
 well cultivated and cleaned from weeds before 
 commencing to bank it. 
 
 XXVIII. 
 
 Tools to use in Celery Growing. 
 
 Among the necessary tools may be named 
 first, a good plow, and it should be a good one, 
 that will turn the furrows clear over and that 
 will cover the manure well in plowing it under, 
 next a pulverizer and leveler. A lo or 12 
 tooth cultivator with wheel, it should have 
 fine teeth not over an inch wide in order to 
 cultivate close to the rows without covering 
 the small plants. A common winged shovel 
 plow for making furrows for putting in 
 manure, if not desirable to plow under 
 
44 
 
 CELERY CULTURE. 
 
 the whole patch. A Planet Jr. double or single 
 celery hiller. A single hiller is preferred for many 
 
 reasons. It is not so hard on a horse and can be 
 used to advantage no matter how far the rows 
 
CELERY CULTURE. 
 
 45 
 
 are apart. In hand tools some wide bladed hoes 
 and if land is marshy the hoes should be from 12 
 to 16 or 18 inches wide and 4 inches high. The 
 soil being light a wide bladed hoe works to per- 
 fection and can be used for making furrows, 
 covering manure and for banking up the celery. 
 The single or double wheel hoe should be at 
 hand to stir up the soil after rains and keep down 
 the weeds. For stirring up the soil use the 
 rakes. If weedy use the hoes, after becoming 
 
 -;i_:r^\* ,!f ^-^ ^, ^ V^>^^-f=-? 
 
 used to these machines it is easy to keep the celery 
 patch clean, going once in a while along and 
 pulling out the weeds in the rows. Formerly all 
 the hoeing and stirring up of the soil was done 
 by hand, now it is nearly all done with the 
 wheel hoes, saving an immense amount of time, 
 one man now doing with a wheel hoe nearly as 
 much as ten men could formerly do by hand. 
 
46 CELERY CULTURE. 
 
 XXIX. 
 
 To Prepare Celery for Eastern and 
 Western Markets. 
 
 For the western market take 12 good 
 bleached stalks with nearly all the green stems 
 trimmed off and the butt or root end pointed or 
 cut off square, after washing clean the 12 stalks 
 are tied with common grocery twine or narrow 
 blue or red ribbon. They are called bunch, 
 dozen, etc. If some of the stalks are small add a 
 couple to make a good bunch. Always be care- 
 ful to see that the bunches are just as good inside 
 as out. One of the strings or ribbons should 
 be near the top ju3t under the green leaves and 
 the other as low as possible. For eastern market 
 trim as above except that the butt or root ends 
 should be pointed instead of cut off square. 
 After washing the three or four stalks together 
 get 1 2 such bunches and tie together getting the 
 lower string around the butt end and the upper 
 one away up in the green leaves. Another way 
 which grocers and hotel keepers prefer is to take 
 6 stalks tie them together in the western way 
 with ribbon or string. They generally will pay 
 more for two half bunches than for one full bunch 
 as some grocers cannot dispose of more than 
 
CELERY CULTURE. 47 
 
 one-half bunch per day. Experience will prove 
 in many cases that the half bunches of 6 stalks 
 is the most profitable way to put it up. 
 
 XXX. 
 
 How TO Wash it Quickly. 
 
 Prepare a tank large enough to hold from 
 three to four barrels of water, if celery is grown 
 upon a small scale a two barrel tank would be 
 large enough. Washing is done with a whisk 
 broom or scrubbing brush. Wash thoroughly 
 and after a little experience it can be done 
 rapidly. Some men being able to tie as many 
 as 600 to 800 bunches per day of ten hours. 
 One boy does the washing. After the bunches 
 are tied they should be set up on end to 
 drain. Keep the bunches in a cool shady place 
 to prevent wilting if the weather is hot. In 
 warm weather always have fresh water every day 
 no matter how little celery has been washed in it 
 the day before. It should be clean fresh water 
 as old water in which celery has been washed 
 the previous day will turn the celery black. If 
 weather and water are cold warm the water by 
 pouring in hot water before putting in the celery 
 as by pouring the hot water in the tank while 
 
48 CELERY CULTURE. 
 
 the celery is in, the quality of the celery is injured 
 or spoiled by the hot water coming in contact 
 with it. 
 
 XXXI. 
 
 Boxes to use for Different Numbers of 
 Twelve Stalk Bunches in Shipping. 
 
 All boxes should be from 24 to 28 inches 
 long, the ends should be of one inch stuff planed 
 on one side, and the following are the required 
 sizes of the ends: 
 
 6x8 will hold 4 bunches western style, 2 
 bunches at each end. 
 
 6x12 will hold 6 bunches. 
 
 6x 16 will hold 8 bunches. 
 
 6 X 20 will hold 10 bunches. 
 
 6 X 24 will hold 12 bunches. 
 
 The stuff 24 or 28 inches long should be of 
 one inch planed on both sides then ripped being 
 then a little less than one-half inch thick, the 
 6 inch part of the box is called the side. 
 
 XXXII. 
 
 How TO Pack so as to Reach Destination 
 in Good Condition. 
 
 The bunches should be set on end so that 
 the water will all drain off. When nearly dry 
 
CELERY CULTURE. 49 
 
 roll each bunch in thick brown paper, the 
 bunches should be so dry that they will not soak 
 through the paper. They should be packed in 
 boxes in a cool room if possible. Rolling in 
 paper prevents heating in the box. In freezing 
 weather the box should be lined with similiar 
 paper and if zero weather there should be four 
 thickness of paper in the box as lining, which will 
 be almost a sure protection against freezing if 
 put in so that there are no cracks or openings. 
 Care should be taken to lay the paper close 
 together. 
 
 XXXIII. 
 
 How AND When to Break up Soil so as to 
 Have no Trouble with Grass. 
 
 To have no trouble with grass in the first 
 place requires a good man at the plow, as the plow 
 must throw the furrows entirely over and any 
 part that the plow by accident does not throw 
 entirely over should be tramped down to its 
 place. Procure a Disc Harrow like the cut 
 herein. Pulverize the soil on top well. The 
 chisel harrows are not to be recommended as 
 they seem not well adapted to work up sod for 
 celery ground as they cut up the sod when what 
 is desired is that the black dirt be pulverized fine 
 
5° 
 
 CELERY CULTURE. 
 
 and the sod kept whole but turned completely 
 under to rot beneath the fine soil. A chisel 
 
 harrow will bring some pieces of sod to the top 
 which grow as soon as they come to the light 
 
CELERY CULTURE. 5 1 
 
 which should be prevented. The proper way to 
 get the manure in well is as follows: 
 
 Do not plow around the field as on a farm, 
 but plow length wise only covering the manure 
 well in each furrow, but if manure is insufficient 
 for each furrow put in every third furrow, marking 
 each end of the furrows containing manure by a 
 stake driven even with the surface. If the field 
 is wide back plow leaving the dead fur- 
 rows open and shovel out a little and use as a 
 ditch in which to allow the surface water to run 
 off. After plowing use the Disc Harrow and 
 pulverize as fine as possible. 
 
 Commence planting as soon as the plants 
 are of sufficient size, setting the plants over the 
 furrows in which the manure has been placed. 
 
 Never allow the patch to lie plowed without 
 getting it thoroughly pulverized, otherwise it will 
 dry out which should be prevented by all means, 
 especially when the weather is dry with little or 
 no prospect of rain. 
 
 Another good way to manure the patch is 
 to spread fine, well rotted manure over the field 
 after it is plowed, then work it in with the 
 Disc Harrow. Both of the above processes upon 
 the same field have produced good celery, by 
 first putting manure in every fourth furrow, then 
 
52 CELERY CULTURE. 
 
 staking it. After plowing put on 15 loads of very 
 fine manure to the acre and working it in with 
 the Disc. When the plants were small the roots 
 worked in the fine manure that was harrowed 
 in and when larger in that under the furrows. 
 The advice given so far in this chapter is for low 
 land. It is not advisable to plant celery on 
 upland sod. Sod is dry and porous and there is 
 generally plenty of fine nicely work upland to be 
 had without bothering with sod. To prevent 
 trouble with grass on low land it should be 
 broken up in June, a few days before setting the 
 celery plants as most of the growing of the grass 
 is then done. Still a better way is to plow in the 
 fall, putting in coarse manure and harrowing it 
 fine with the Disc, letting the winter frosts act 
 upon it and by spring most of the sod will have 
 disappeared, and by using the Disc occasionally 
 will prevent foul stuff from getting the advantage. 
 Of course the sod has some change to 
 undergo, decomposition must take place which 
 is effected by the soil being exposed to the 
 amelionating influence of the winter frosts, but 
 if the ground is not to be broken up until spring 
 it is advisable to wait until the plants are nearly 
 ready for setting as the grass does not grow so 
 vigorously after the middle of June as in May. 
 
CELERY CULTURE. 53 
 
 XXXIV. 
 
 How TO USE Horses on Wet Soil Without 
 
 Miring. 
 
 The only way this can be prevented is to 
 prepare wooden shoes for them which are round 
 pieces of two inch oak or elm plank to which are 
 attached on top two swing irons which go over 
 the horses hoof which are fastened by a screw 
 bolt through the eyes in the swing irons. They 
 are made and sold in Kalamazoo and cost $2.50 
 per set of four. . They are not patented and have 
 been made and in use here for at least fifteen 
 years. Any blacksmith can make them if they 
 only have one to get the idea from. There are 
 some patented horse boots in the market which 
 are just as good as those made by the black- 
 smith. There are also some that appear to be 
 patented which are all iron, being made of 
 malleable iron, but they are not considered as 
 desirable, as the thin iron edges are liable to 
 hurt the horse if he mires. With the two 
 inch plank shoes on their hoofs there is not 
 much danger of them getting hurt. 
 
 We are not in the business of selling shoes, 
 but will to each reader of our book who has 
 purchased the book of us or our agents, furnish 
 
54 CELERY CULTURE. 
 
 one new shoe complete, as used here, for $i.oo 
 which will serve as a pattern from which 
 others can be made. We offer this merely as 
 an accommodation to our customers and no 
 others. 
 
 XXXV. 
 
 How TO DO ALL THE WORK ExCEPT PLANTING 
 
 With Horses and Agricultural 
 Implements. 
 
 In the foregoing chapters it has been pointed 
 out how to prepare the ground and what tools to 
 use and it is unnecessary to repeat it all, but 
 would refer the reader to the previous pages that 
 treat upon it which are complete, except with 
 regard to making the rows ready which must 
 also be done by hand (for particulars see pre- 
 ceding chapters), but will further mention, avoid 
 going on the patch in very wet weather as it will 
 bake the soil. In dry weather cultivate shallow, 
 but often so that the moisture in the soil be 
 retained. 
 
CELERY CULTURE. 
 
 55 
 
 XXXVI. 
 
 Immense Profit From a Half Acre of 
 
 Celery as a Second Crop. 
 To make an immense profit we must have 
 a good market and must get from 40 to 75 cents 
 
56 CELERY CULTURE. 
 
 per bunch or dozen stalks. To make an esti- 
 mate we will take the average, say 50 cent per 
 bunch of 12 stalks. One-half acre has been 
 known to produce (700) seven hundred dozen 
 stalks of good celery, which at 50 cents would 
 make $350, which is a good showing for a second 
 crop. Also one-half acre has been known to 
 produce two crops of good celery that netted the 
 owner $800, he sold at 60 cents per bunch, and 
 a still larger report that came to our notice was 
 that one man made as much as #9,000 from a 
 three acre lot in one year. The reader may 
 judge for himself. Two crops of good celery on 
 three acres will produce 9,000 bunches, at one 
 dollar a bunch would make the sum of $9,000, 
 which is not a bad showing for a three acre lot. 
 It would be hardly possible to grow more than 
 9,000 bunches unless three or four crops were 
 put in. 
 
 XXXVII. 
 
 What Varieties to Plant for Medium and 
 Very Late Crops. 
 
 For medium early the following are recom- 
 mended: "White Plume," * 'Golden Heart," 
 * 'Perfection Hartwell" and the ' 'Kalamazoo, " and 
 for very late keeping and late crop the "Giant 
 
CELERY CULTURE. 57 
 
 Paschal" and "Boston Market." Some new 
 varieties that have proved very fine are the new 
 ''Kalamazoo Golden Heart, " (in use here only) 
 and the new "Perle LeGrande." It is desirable 
 to get pure strains that are not mixed with other 
 varieties. Some reputable houses have sold 
 White Plume celery seed that had more than 
 three different kinds of green variety among the 
 White Plume, about one-half being White 
 Plume and the balance other green varieties. 
 Now the seed houses are not entirely at fault 
 in the matter, but it is largely the fault of the 
 gardener, who is unwilling to pay a fair price for 
 good, pure seed, and the order goes where seed 
 is offered the cheapest. The seedsman, in turn, 
 must have the seed to offer cheap, and buys of 
 the seed grower that will sell the cheapest. The 
 quality is thus lost sight of. To get strictly 
 pure seed is almost impossible ; but buying from 
 a careful grower of known reputation, and at a 
 fair price, will enable the seedsman to offer fairly 
 good seed. 
 
 The foregoing is as true of all other seeds 
 as of celery. The seed growers of high reputation 
 and good prices of years ago were forced more 
 or less by growers of less experience to reduce 
 prices in order to hold their trade. The White 
 
58 CELERY CULTURE. 
 
 Plume is an offspring of the green varieties, and 
 has a tendency to reproduce a small percentage 
 of green. No matter how far a patch of stock 
 plants is set away from another patch of green, 
 there are always accidents that the most careful 
 seed grower cannot avoid. There may be a 
 plant of wild celery growing in a ditch near by ; 
 an insect would carry the pollen from this over 
 the patch of White Plume and fertilize it. The 
 seed would be harvested and sold as the best ; 
 and of course the gardener would find out what 
 kind of stuff it was and would blame the seeds- 
 man, who in turn would blame the grower, who 
 would not know that there was any wild celery 
 near his place the previous year, and would feel 
 insulted, for he thought he had a fine stock of 
 seed, but he had not and did not know it. 
 Nature was tricky and responsible for the trouble. 
 No seedsman can warrant his seed ; what can 
 happen with the wild celery to a whole crop of 
 different celery can happen to all seeds. But 
 without drifting into seed growing it may be ob- 
 served that these things may happen without 
 blame to anyone, and it is advisable to use great 
 care in selecting seeds. Here in Kalamazoo the 
 careful celery growers always buy their seeds 
 ahead ; what they expect to sow next season 
 
CELERY CULTURE. 59 
 
 they buy the year before and try it on a small 
 scale with a row or two ; if found all right it is 
 planted, if not it is thrown away. Some growers 
 have from two to three years supply ahead. I 
 have known samples called Giants that proved 
 to be giants, but in almost every case were soft 
 and pithy and of no value. Still softness cannot 
 always be laid to the seed. To give a broader 
 idea it may be said that where here and there 
 big hollow stalks may be found amongst a good 
 crop, the cause may be laid to the seed but the 
 seed grower is undoubtedly not aware of how it 
 happened. But Nature is very tricky in seed 
 growing, and each soft stalk must be an offspring 
 from some soft leaf on the stock plant or set ; 
 but where we find the whole crop more or less 
 soft and spongy, especially on the outside leaves 
 it is no fault of the seed, but in most cases can 
 be traced to other causes, such as the celery 
 being too old, the land on which the celery was 
 grown not being rich enough, very wet spells or 
 close planting. It has been known to get soft 
 even in trenches in wet spells when the trenches 
 contained water. This is all mentioned to show 
 that everything cannot be blamed to the seeds- 
 man. To insure a growth of solid celery we 
 should first select good seed, second rich soil 
 
60 CELERY CULTURE. 
 
 and prevent close planting. Here is an accident 
 that happened to a grower here in Kalamazoo a 
 few years ago. He had a patch of i J^ acres 
 which was in rich shape and from which he ex- 
 pected to get a good many bunches. He went 
 to work and planted the first crop 3 ^ feet apart, 
 which was done on the first of June, having the 
 plants for the second planting ready about the 
 last of June. He planted between, making the 
 rows some twenty inches apart. The first crop 
 had, of course the start of the second planting, 
 but the second crop did well for a while till 
 nearly full grown when the tops were together 
 and the whole field nearly covered, then a rainy 
 spell set in of two weeks' duration ; the celery 
 had not been dry during all that time and the 
 wet spell finished it. It was all soft up to the 
 heart and a total loss. The cause was close 
 planting and wetness. 
 
 xxxvin. 
 
 How TO Manage Without Tiling. 
 
 TiHng is only needed where land is alto- 
 gether too wet, and where tile is expensive, put- 
 ting in brush is advisable, which can be done as 
 follows : Cut a ditch three or four feet deep and 
 eighteen inches wide at the bottom. In this 
 
CELERY CULTURE. 6l 
 
 trench twelve inches of brush should be laid with 
 the butt ends down. After the brush is in, sod 
 should be laid over it to prevent clogging, then 
 fill in the dirt that was taken out in digging the 
 ditch. Such brush ditches will last a long time. 
 Some built here fourteen years ago by laying old 
 boards on top of the brush are good yet. Such 
 ditches are generally laid across patches that 
 have miry places in them and are laid so as to 
 connect with the nearest ditch. Where tile is 
 cheap it is preferable. 
 
 XXXIX. 
 
 How TO Manage Low Peaty Soil. 
 
 Such land should at first be well ditched to 
 provide an outlet for the accumulation of water 
 during wet spells and in the spring. Peaty 
 lumps should be dried, put in heaps and burned, 
 or drawn off. If there is much of it it can be 
 used for building roads through swamps or low 
 lands. After the peat is removed the land 
 should be plowed or spaded whichever can be 
 done to best advantage. 
 
62 CELERY CULTURE. 
 
 XL. 
 
 How TO Prevent Blight. 
 
 Most celery growers have had some ex- 
 perience with bhght, one of the worst foes of the 
 celery grower; and repeated inquiries come ask- 
 ing for a remedy for it. There seems to be no 
 known cure for it and even if there were it would 
 be so expensive as to cost more than the affected 
 crop of celery. Yet let us not rest here but see if 
 we cannot investigate deeper and learn the cause 
 of blight and prevent it, which is better than a 
 cure. While it cannot be entirely prevented it 
 can be checked to quite a considerable extent. 
 Having had an opportunity to study the matter 
 thoroughly here in Kalamazoo, where so much 
 celery is grown, one or two cases may be given 
 as an illustration. 
 
 One fine field was planted close, the rows 
 only being 4^ feet apart ; Between these were 
 the second crop, of rank growth, being nearly as 
 tall as the first crop. The two crops shaded the 
 ground ; the first crop had to be boarded to get 
 it bleached, so the roots of both crops were not 
 disturbed. The first crop was taken out in a 
 week ; the second crop was soon completely 
 covered with blight about as bad as could be 
 
CELERY CULTURE, 63 
 
 imagined. Another field adjoining it did not 
 show any sign of blight. It was the change that 
 did it ; that second crop was used to a shady 
 position ; after taking out the first crop the sun 
 had free play, dried up the roots near the sur- 
 face, which by the way support the outer leaves, 
 and resulted in stunting the growth and a bad 
 case of blight. 
 
 How to prevent it? It has been done. In 
 another field similar to the above mentioned 
 the first crop was hurried out, the trimmings 
 cleaned and wheeled out, the second crop shal- 
 low cultivated with a wheel hoe with cultivator 
 tooth in it, close up to the rows, and was fol- 
 lowed up by a winged shovel plow and some 
 dirt thrown alongside the rows. The change 
 stunted the growth, but blight was prevented. 
 
 Why was it prevented ? The soil drawn 
 up near the rows with the shovel plow saved 
 the roots near the surface from being hurt 
 by the fierce action of the sun. Did you ever see 
 a Potted Geranium plant suffer for want of water? 
 The topsoil was very dry, the lower leaves died 
 and dropped off. Why did they drop first ? Be- 
 cause the roots near the surface dried up and 
 failed to support the lower leaves. Here we 
 have a case similar to celery blight, the roots 
 
64 CELERY CULTURE. 
 
 near the surface fail to supply the outside stems 
 with moisture. If these roots get destroyed 
 celery is apt to get bHght. To further show that 
 it is heat, we have seen a field in a similar con- 
 dition here in a cool September for three weeks 
 without attention and the second crop did not 
 show a sign of blight. We have seen blight fall 
 on a patch of celery after cold heavy dews fol- 
 lowed by extremely hot days. It was the change 
 again which cannot be very easily prevented but 
 it can in some cases be checked by cultivating 
 the patch more or less with a fine-tooth cultiva- 
 tor for three or four days, shallow cultivating if 
 the ground is dry, until the celery becomes ac- 
 customed to the heat, as it is the extreme heat 
 and burning of the surface roots that cause 
 blight. Plowing some dirt up close to the rows 
 with a winged cultivator is also to be recom- 
 mended to protect the roots. 
 
 Whether there are germs of this fearful 
 plague floating in the air is not really known. 
 Some think there are as in most cases of plant 
 growth the disease attacks stunted neglected 
 plants. So in celery a stunted patch is at- 
 tacked by the pest, while a vigorous grow- 
 ing patch adjoining is exempt and not sub- 
 ject to it. It results from close planting, neglect 
 
CELERY CULTURE. 65 
 
 of cultivating, extreme close, hot, burning 
 weather and the burning of surface roots. So 
 it is best to plant in furrows as mentioned in 
 a former Chapter so that the roots are not so 
 near the surface. Second, plenty of shallow 
 cultivating by hand and horse power to keep 
 out the fearful heat of the sun. Third, cultivat- 
 ing on very hot days in the forenoon to get the 
 celery accustomed to the heat, also avoid close 
 planting, as it has often proved an invitation to 
 celery blight to have too closely planted patches, 
 especially in dry soil, while if the soil is spongy 
 and very wet it will stand close planting much 
 better as the wet soil keeps the roots cool and 
 healthy. In dry summers there is the greater 
 liability to blight, while with plenty of rain it 
 does not do a great deal of harm. Yet it has 
 been known to get into neglected fields after a 
 heavy rain while fields that were well cultivated 
 two or three times a week and cultivated after a 
 rain as soon as dry enough to prevent baking 
 will generally escape the pest. Farther south, 
 where there is only a Hmited amount of rain it is 
 advisable to plant the green varieties such as 
 Perfection Hartwell and others similar to it. 
 The White Plume is a tender variety and is a 
 more easy victim to celery blight. Where it is 
 
66 CELERY CULTURE. 
 
 always dry the surface roots will penetrate 
 downward and will not be near the surface. Of 
 course, in such places the crop must be irrigated, 
 but not too much or too long at a time. For 
 particulars see chapter on irrigating. 
 
 It is thought that if at about August 15th, or 
 a little later a little fertilizer be drilled in along the 
 rows and soaked in if dry to act upon the roots, 
 the ravages of blight can be greatly checked as it 
 seems that about this time celery to a certain ex- 
 tent stops growing and is ripe for blight, es- 
 pecially that which is nearly full grown. Newly 
 planted celery is in its full vigor and does not 
 need it. If the nearly grown celery could be 
 hurried up and started into more vigorous growth 
 much blight could be prevented. Of course, if 
 it is growing well it is not advisable, but when 
 the growth is not thrifty it should be tried. It is 
 not well to plant old neglected plants from early 
 hot beds for medium early crop ; had better wait till 
 plants from cold beds or open ground are ready. 
 Where the old neglected plants are used they 
 are very liable to be affected with blight. But 
 now the question is if we get the blight what are 
 we going to do about it. Shall we throw the 
 whole crop away and plant a new one if not too 
 late ? But if too late, what then ? Procure a good 
 
CELERY CULTURE. 67 
 
 sickle or something similar, trim the rows of the 
 dead looking celery, cutting some four or five 
 inches from the top and along the sides. Cultivate 
 well if there is room enough by horse power, then 
 let them alone to gather new strength and recover 
 from the shock. After a week or so it will be 
 noticed they have commenced growing again, 
 then some fertilizer drilled and soaked in will 
 help them along greatly. Such celery should be 
 banked and bleached as the late crop and might 
 be sold when ready. Store it early as it is brit- 
 tle and cannot stand much. It is not a total loss 
 but requires considerable work. If some of the 
 stalks run to seed do not pull them up but leave 
 them to help bleach the remaining stalks. If the 
 seeders are pulled there are open places and 
 stalks standing near an open space will not 
 bleach. 
 
 XLI. 
 
 How TO Get a Crop of Celery from an Onion 
 
 Field. 
 
 A crop of celery can be raised between 
 onions ; there is ample room for a row of celery 
 every six feet. Here onions are sown one foot 
 apart, then an empty space twenty-four to thirty 
 inches wide is left for the row of celery, which is 
 
68 CELERY CULTURE. 
 
 planted in this space the last part of June and 
 should be done after a good rain to avoid the 
 necessity of watering. Take care not to injure 
 the onions ; if they lean over into the open space 
 lay them carefully towards the inside ; a good 
 crop of celery can thus be raised if the ground is 
 rich enough. Where onions are grown on upland 
 it is not advisable to attempt to grow celery be- 
 tween as one is liable there to have other land 
 better adapted for it. In case land is limited 
 proceed to work as indicated above. When 
 planting prepare the rows the same as mentioned 
 in previous chapters treating upon this subject. 
 
 XLII. 
 
 How TO Prevent Rot in Trenches and How to 
 
 Trench. 
 
 To prevent rot in trenches the celery should 
 be sound and not half frozen. Yellow and de- 
 cayed leaves should be trimmed off. In this 
 latitude it should not be trenched until the latter 
 part of October. After it has been in the 
 trenches four weeks or so it should be taken out, 
 the roots should be laid toward the sun to dry 
 and to destroy the little white hairy roots that 
 are around the old ones. This should be done 
 on a nice sunny day, all decay trimmed off and 
 
CELERY CULTURE. 69 
 
 again trenched. After another three or four 
 weeks repeat this operation and continue so to 
 do until sold. Set in trenches from eight inches 
 to a foot wide. We have a frame ten inches 
 wide, sixteen feet long and two feet high. We 
 only have a sixteen foot board on each side ten 
 or twelve inches wide ; the ends are ten inches 
 wide and twenty-four inches long. We set the 
 legs down and trench in same. After the frame 
 is full we throw up dirt on the sides as high as 
 the celery, after which we lift the frame out (one 
 man on each end) and start another. On very 
 wet soil, trenches should be set on a level ; on up- 
 land if high and well drained trenches may be 
 dug deep, but take great care that no water gets 
 in from any cause whatever, as it will ruin the 
 celery. If by accident it does get in take the 
 celery out at once and dry in the sun as pre- 
 viously recommended and retrench after it is 
 well dried. 
 
 XLIII. 
 
 How TO Prepare One Acre for Planting Two 
 
 Crops in Three Days with One 
 
 Man and a Horse. 
 
 This has been quite fully explained in a 
 former chapter on leveling the soil. Draw on 
 
70 CELERY CULTURE. 
 
 the manure with a wide tired wagon, spread it 
 and plow under and afterwards make rows ready 
 for two crops about three or four feet apart. 
 Plant every other row as the first crop. After 
 about two weeks follow up with the second crop. 
 Bleach out the first crop with dirt, tile or boards. 
 If bleaching with dirt do not press it up close to 
 the celery but have it lie just gently against 
 it, which will prevent rust. See chapter on 
 bleaching. 
 
 XLIV. 
 
 How TO Get Four Crops from One Field in 
 States South of Michigan. 
 
 The soil must be rich. The patch must be on 
 low wet land, or if on upland it must be irrigated 
 so that all the crops will get sufficient moisture 
 to grow quickly. The first crop should be 
 planted in rows six feet apart early in May, the 
 second by the 20th of May at farthest. These 
 two crops should be grown quickly and ready for 
 market from June 25 to July 25 or August 10. 
 As soon as a row is out clean the trimmings out 
 and replant, using plenty of water on the rows 
 before planting. The last planting should be. 
 done about August 15. It is advisable to plant 
 every other row again so that the celery will ma- 
 
CELERY CULTURE. 71 
 
 ture in that order. If the first second crop is not 
 early enough and it is early enough in the season 
 commence hilling up early. If half bleached 
 take out and trench ; after that is out there is 
 room to hill or bank up the last crop. Leave 
 the last crop in as long as possible ; it can then 
 be kept away long into the spring if taken out 
 late in season as mentioned in chapter on trench- 
 ing. If there is no danger from frost the first of 
 the second crop can be bleached with boards or 
 tiles and the second or last crop, which is the 
 fourth crop, with dirt, taking the first crop out 
 as soon as there appears to be danger of frost. 
 Then hurry it into narrow trenches and set it 
 in loose to prevent heating. Leave the last crop 
 in the ground as long as the weather will permit. 
 Do not be in too great hurry. More celery is 
 spoiled annually in trenches than by freezing in 
 the ground. Celery does not freeze so quick if 
 banked up deep so it can stand it. The last is 
 even trenched when the snow is flying. For 
 particulars see chapter on trenching, and 
 preceding chapter, "How to handle it if 
 there is a severe frost approaching or danger 
 of one." 
 
72 CELERY CULTURE. 
 
 XLV. 
 
 How TO Manage Dressed Celery with the 
 Roots Off and Keep it for a Long Time. 
 
 Such celery should stand in a dark cool 
 place straight up and down in about one-half 
 inch of water, no deeper or it will soon turn 
 yellow and spoil. Some keep it in one-half inch 
 of water in a refrigerator which is advisable .if 
 convenient. If not it should be kept in a dark 
 cool cellar. Celery that is put up with pointed 
 butts will keep the longest as the entire points 
 can be kept in the water without wetting the 
 stalks. 
 
 XLVI. 
 
 How to Make a Transplanter. 
 
 By this it is not meant a machine to plant 
 with but a marker, or in other words a marker 
 that makes the holes for the plants. First take 
 a piece of hard wood one inch thick, three inches 
 wide and five feet long, in which bore ^ 
 inch holes five inches apart or as far apart as 
 it is desired to set the plants, say from four to 
 eight inches. In these holes drive short pieces 
 of broom stick four or five inches long. Sharpen 
 them so they will drive easily into the soil. 
 Next get a similar piece of wood to the one into 
 
CELERY CULTURE. 73 
 
 which the pins have been driven only it need be 
 only three-quarters of an inch thick, bore one 
 inch holes in it the same distance apart as the 
 pins. Now, take two coiled bed springs, place 
 one around a pin at each end of the first stick 
 and also to the second so that the pins will slide 
 back and forth through the holes. The marker 
 is now complete. By stepping on the top piece 
 the pins are forced into the ground and the 
 springs will lift the pins out the moment the foot is 
 removed. All that is now necessary is a frame 
 to handle it with, which can readily be made of 
 light strong stuff three or four feet high according 
 to the height of the person who is to use it. 
 
 XLVII. 
 
 How TO Save Time with it. 
 
 To save time with it it should be used after 
 the rows are soaked and ready for planting. 
 Stretch the Hne and force the holes alongside the 
 line with the marker in which place the plants. 
 After becoming used to it more than half of the 
 time taken by the old way may be saved, but it 
 will not do to use the marker on too freshly 
 soaked rows as the soil will adhere to the pins 
 and prevent making good holes for the plants. 
 These machines have been in use so long that it 
 
74 CELERY CULTURE. 
 
 is not likely a valid patent on them could be ob- 
 tained and there is little or no danger from in- 
 fringement on patents if marker is made in ac- 
 cordance with directions given. 
 
 XLVIII. 
 
 How TO Grow Celery on Exhausted Land. 
 
 To grow celery on poor land we must' have 
 manure. Poor land will not produce good celery 
 without it ; but if manure is scarce it is advisable 
 to put it in furrows as mentioned in a preced- 
 ing chapter, using well rotted manure ; ten loads 
 per acre will do ; fifteen to twenty are better ; 
 that, of course means for one crop. For two 
 crops it is recommended to spread it on the 
 whole field. Work is thus saved and it can be 
 planted at convenience. If no more than five 
 loads can be had it is advisable to drill in a little 
 fertilizer a month after the celery is planted. If 
 there is a prospect of rain drill in just before the 
 rain and save the necessity of watering it 
 down. If necessary to irrigate drill in the 
 fertilizer first for the same reason as given above. 
 About six weeks after planting drill in a little 
 more fertilizer and see that it is soaked into the 
 ground. Drill it in on the north side of the rows 
 if they run east and west. Good plant food 
 
CELERY CULTURE. 75 
 
 should be used. It is well to correspond with 
 the State Experiment Station or Agricultural 
 College and learn which is the best fertilizer for 
 celery. Fertilizers must be drilled in and well 
 dissolved to act upon the roots if there is any 
 benefit to be expected from it. Do not drill in 
 too much at a time ; it is better to drill in 
 smaller quantities often than too much at once. 
 Sometimes bales of fertilizer are used that do 
 more harm than good. It was drilled in dry, no 
 water used and no rain followed, so it actually 
 burned the surface roots and helped to induce 
 blight. 
 
 Remember fertilizers are strong. The ad- 
 •vice given in this chapter is for low muck soil. 
 On poor upland it is not advisable to try to raise 
 celery at all. 
 
 XLIX. 
 
 How TO Grow and Manage Celery on High 
 Mountain Land. 
 
 What is meant by the above is elevated or 
 upland. The patch to be selected for celery 
 should be level or nearly so to prevent washing 
 in case of heavy rains. Below is an explanation 
 of how celery can be grown on such land. We 
 must have old rotten manure three years old or 
 
76 CELERY CULTURE. 
 
 older. Dig or plow trenches three feet wide and 
 from twelve to eighteen inches deep. In these 
 trenches put from six to eight inches of the rotten 
 manure, or better still four inches and then a 
 layer of the soil that was dug out in making the 
 trench, say about two or three inches which 
 should be mixed with the manure, then another 
 layer of manure and soil till the trench is filled 
 three or four inches below the level of the patch. 
 Then put two or three inches of soil over this. If 
 leaf-mold can be obtained by the wagon load from 
 the woods it is better still. Now such beds will 
 take from two to three rows of celery lo inches 
 apart and from five to seven inches apart in the 
 row. These beds have to be watered, so it is best 
 to allow eight feet or so between the beds for a 
 road over which to haul the water, which may 
 be procured from a stream near by, or, if not, 
 from the tank of a windmill or any other con- 
 venient place. If a stream can be dammed so 
 as to turn the water on the patch it is well to do 
 so. (See chapters on irrigation.) 
 
 The water put on should all remain in the 
 beds and not run over the wagon road, which can 
 be prevented by banking up along the edges of 
 trench to prevent its running off. The beds should 
 be watered well and then let alone until they need 
 
CELERY CULTURE. 77 
 
 water again. It is not well to water a little 
 every day, as it is impossible to know whether 
 too much or too little water is being used. Some 
 beds appeared to be dry on top, while six inches 
 below they were altogether too wet. So after 
 watering it is best to stir up the soil to get it in a 
 healthy condition ; then it will dry out even and 
 not get sour and in bad shape at the bottom. 
 Celery should not suffer for want of water, yet it 
 should not have too much, as it will produce 
 blight, especially upon that which is planted 
 early, while on the later crop it will produce 
 softness. 
 
 From all of the foregoing some of the readers 
 of this book may think it is very difficult to grow 
 celery successfully, yet it is not. Still every- 
 thing should be done carefully and not overdone. 
 (See chapter on irrigation.) 
 
 Gardeners not having much ground can lay 
 two beds close together, say i8 to 24 inches 
 apart, then a wagon road ; then they can water 
 a bed on each side of the road. After such a 
 crop is large enough it should be banked up 
 either with soil or boards. Half way with dirt is 
 advisable, but avoid putting the dirt up too close 
 to the outer rows as it will be liable to rust. If 
 the soil is rather wet it will stay up nicely. After 
 
78 CELERY CULTURE. 
 
 such banks have been up a week or so set wide 
 boards on top and pull inward so the whole 
 closes up at the top. All the leaves of the three 
 rows will make it quite close and it will bleach 
 well in that way. It is very much like the new 
 way which will be explained further along in this 
 book, but the way explained in this chapter is 
 preferable to the new way. 
 
 Celery must have water ; when dry and the 
 clouds fail we must get it from other sources. 
 By drawing it on by hand or wagon or by irri- 
 gating in the manner pointed out in this chapter 
 it is possible to get between the beds to water 
 them, but in the new way it is not and growing 
 celery v/ithout any water or rain is impossible. 
 
 L. 
 
 What Manure to Use to Get Black Dirt Out 
 
 OF Sandy Soil. 
 
 It is claimed that corn cobs will do it, but it 
 may be impossible to get them by the load; also, 
 it takes them a long time to become rotted 
 enough to plant celery upon. Experience 
 teaches that they will turn the soil black and 
 change it also, but it takes from two to four 
 years before they are decomposed. It is advis- 
 
CELERY CULTURE. 79 
 
 able to draw on a good coat from tne swamp if 
 near by, and if not leaf mold from the woods. 
 If corn cobs are to be had put them in the hog 
 pen, which helps them to get broken up fine ; 
 then haul them on to the patch and they will 
 help to retain moisture. Black dirt is also help- 
 ful to retain moisture and celery will grow better 
 on such prepared soil than on clear sandy mixed 
 soil. Clay or loam ground should also be 
 treated in the above manner. 
 
 LI. 
 
 How TO Get Two Late Crops from One Field. 
 
 The first of the late crop should be planted 
 about the middle of June and of the White 
 Plume variety if there is a prospect of being able 
 to dispose of it before it is time to bank up the 
 second crop for winter. Rows should be from 
 six to seven feet apart. Plant between these 
 rows about July 15th plants of the Giant Paschal 
 or any other good variety, such as ' ' Perfection, " 
 ''Golden Heart" or any other good green variety 
 that is suitable for your market. It is not 
 always best to grow what you like best, but what 
 can be produced best on your land and what can 
 be sold at the highest price. After the second 
 
8o CELERY CULTURE. 
 
 crop is in, work it well by stirring up the soil and 
 hurry it along as fast as possible so that the 
 White Plume will be large enough to hill up by 
 September 15 to 20 at latest. It should be 
 banked up before that time if stalks are large 
 enough but watch carefully to prevent rust. By 
 the 15th or 20th of October it should be out in 
 this latitude ; if further south it can stand longer. 
 Most any gardener can tell when there is danger 
 from early frost. 
 
 If not all sold by the time the second crop 
 is ready to be banked up and no ground to do it 
 with, pull the first or White Plume out and 
 trench ; then you will have room and can keep 
 on selling from the first crop. If the patch is 
 quite dry dig down, if trenching early, so the 
 roots come into the moist soil, so the stalks will 
 not wilt. Some gardeners carry water in bottom 
 of trenches under the roots to prevent wilting. 
 If wilted it is necessary to stop selHng and let it 
 revive, which sometimes takes four, five or more 
 weeks, and the tops get disfigured and ragged 
 and spoil the nice looking and fresh, green ap- 
 pearance. As soon as out hill up the late crop 
 and if there is danger of frost, hill away up high 
 so that the frost cannot cut a piece off from the 
 late celery. It will not do to set October 15 as 
 
CELERY CULTURE. 8l 
 
 a fixed date to hill up deep in this latitude even, 
 as sometimes it is too late, but at others it has 
 proved to be nearly two weeks too early, so it is 
 only advisable to hill up in the half hill early so 
 that the hearts shoot up ; then if there is danger 
 of a frost it can be hurried into the deep hill at 
 any time. Further south a much later date can 
 be named on an average than here, but it must 
 be left largely to the judgment of the reader to 
 select that date v/hich is best according to season 
 and locality, only advising to be careful of ex- 
 tremes and avoid getting nipped by too much 
 delay. 
 
 Again, the advice is: Have the first crop out 
 as soon as possible and as soon as out hill- up the 
 late celery. If the first crop is bleached with 
 boards, there will be room to hill up the second 
 crop in the half hill before the first is out, which 
 is best if it is getting late. Then you can hurry 
 in the hill when first is out without waiting for 
 the hearts to shoot up as said before. If not 
 done they will smother and grow crooked and 
 curl up. The heart of a good stalk of celery 
 that is well bleached must be way up in the top. 
 
 Do the hilling with a single or double Planet, 
 Jr., hiller. It does the work well and raises the 
 hanging leaves right up. (For cut of it see 
 
82 CELERY CULTURE. 
 
 other pages and chapters * ' How to bank and 
 cover up celery and have it out quite late 
 in some latitudes, or leave it entirely outside all 
 winter. " ) 
 
 LII. 
 
 How TO Set Plants in Dry or Wet Weather. 
 
 In extremely dry weather have the rows in 
 furrows. After the rows are in fine shape water 
 heavily, tramp the rows down solid after water 
 ing ; then water again, but not so heavily as at 
 first. • Examine before planting to be sure if wet 
 to the bottom. That tramping down after the 
 first watering will start the plants all even if done 
 well. In other words the plants catch even, 
 which is much to be desired to get an even, nice 
 crop. Now, after stretching the line and getting 
 the marker on it, commence planting, setting the 
 plants tight and carefully. It sometimes hap- 
 pens that the sun is so strong that it burns the 
 plants so they cannot stand it. In such cases 
 put boards over the plants to keep the sun off. 
 If the rows run east and west put the boards on 
 the south side, hanging over to the north, put- 
 ting a small stick under to hold the boards in 
 place. If days are dark or rainy pull the boards 
 
CELERY CULTURE. 83 
 
 over to get plants used to the air and the morn- 
 ing sun up to nine o'clock and every day a little 
 later till they get used to it. Some plants have 
 to be nursed in this manner fully two weeks be- 
 fore they can stand the sun and before they are 
 started enough to be alone. Sprinkling plants 
 at evening is a good plan, as they then have the 
 whole night in which to revive. 
 
 In wet weather it is not necessary to shade 
 or water the rows so much. They have to be 
 watered a little so as to be in good condition to 
 plant, but if the rain is only a light shower pay 
 no attention to it and treat your rows just as 
 though it were dry weather and you will be safe. 
 But if not well watered and the sun comes out 
 after a light shower, there will be a loss of plants 
 here and there, if not whole rows. In such 
 cases it is generally best to pull the whole row 
 out and plant over. Then water the rows 
 heavily as recommended above. 
 
 In very wet weather do not plant in furrows, 
 but on the level, as the heavy rains might wash 
 the plants under. If washed under, stir up the 
 soil so the plants can work through again. If 
 there are signs that the plants are growing and 
 breaking through get a hoe and remove some of 
 the soil from the top of the plants. The sooner 
 
84 CELERY CULTURE. 
 
 this is done the better. If here and there a 
 plant fails, stick some new plants in place. If 
 after the plants are set it should rain, go onto 
 the patch as soon as dry enough and stir up the 
 soil with a wheel hoe to prevent its baking, and 
 to keep it in a healthy condition. It sometimes 
 seems impossible to get plants started that have 
 been reset where others have failed after the first 
 setting. In such cases tramp down with the 
 heel, making a little hole, then with a water-can 
 in one hand drop in some water, going over the 
 entire row. After this is done go over the row 
 again with the water ; after the water has settled 
 away reset the plants. For resetting select 
 strong, well rooted plants. It is well to get the 
 planting over or resetting started, no matter how 
 hot the weather, if treated with the heel and 
 water as above mentioned. 
 
 LIII. 
 
 How TO Prevent Land from Becoming Flooded 
 
 Except that Lying Below River - 
 
 Level with Little Expense. 
 
 This is done by laying the patches in 
 rounded or oval shape so that the water from 
 rains will run off naturally into the side ditches. 
 
CELERY CULTURE. 85 
 
 There must be good judgment used in this mat- 
 ter. If the patch is dry and porous, very little 
 rounding is necessary ; if, on the other hand, 
 miry and very wet, have the patch well rounded 
 to get rid of the surplus water in extreme cases. 
 If the patch is well worked and stirred up, it will 
 first hold all the water it needs and the surplus 
 will run off itself because it is rounded. In dry 
 soil it is necessary to hold all the water that falls 
 upon it and must have it rounded only a trifle. 
 In case of extremes where there is not much 
 rainfall, it is well to have the patch level. The 
 same is true where irrigation is necessary. 
 
 LIV. 
 
 How TO Get Long Celery Quick with a 
 
 Little Horse Work. 
 
 To get long celery quick it is first necessary 
 that it be in a good growing condition, that is, 
 not stunted. If in the latter condition it will be 
 necessary to drill in fertilizer and wash or soak in 
 so it will grow again. As soon as large enough 
 at the butt end, get the celery hiller and hill high 
 banks along the rows, taking great care not to 
 have it press too hard against the celery. After 
 the hearts are way up hill up again along the 
 
86 . CELERY CULTURE. 
 
 rows, still taking care to keep dirt away from 
 the celery ; also, avoid hilling when the celery is 
 wet with dew, as it would surely rust if banked 
 up tight. As a rule we hill as high as the celery, 
 sometimes even higher. The second hilling 
 should be done two or three weeks after the first. 
 In another two weeks the -celery willl be 
 clear out of the banks, sticking out from five to 
 eight inches and even higher. The growth has 
 been forced from five to ten inches in length. If 
 needed for the market, bleach it by hilling up 
 higher, if room enough. Then squeeze the soil 
 up close to the plants. Take out as soon as 
 white. Do not let it stand in the hills very long 
 after it is bleached, giving it no chance to rust 
 or rot. Work it so as to get about as much as 
 is needed for every day's demand, being careful 
 not to start too much in the bleach at a time. 
 By hilHng a small quantity every day, about as 
 demanded, loss by rust and rot may be pre- 
 vented. 
 
CELERY CULTURE. 87 
 
 LV. 
 
 How TO Prevent Celery from Getting Soft. 
 
 Some celery will grow soft no matter what 
 the conditions are, the trouble being with the 
 seed. Such celery will be soft in the heart as 
 well as in the outside leaves. The leaves have 
 holes and the stalks are hollow and there seems 
 to be no possible remedy in such cases and we 
 must prevent it in the solid varieties. First, do 
 not plant too close, also keep it in growing con- 
 dition. Prevent it from standing in water either 
 when standing in rows or trenches. Neither let 
 it stand too long in banks or in trenches when 
 bleached, nor let the frost touch the crop very 
 much if it can be prevented if not hilled up 
 at all. 
 
 LVI. 
 
 How TO Trim Celery for Market. 
 
 As the above has been explained in former 
 chapters, it will be only necessary to add that 
 trimming celery with long points makes it look 
 longer. So if celery is short trim with long 
 points, If long, but not large, trim off square or 
 in such manner as suits your customers best. 
 
88 CELERY CULTURE. 
 
 LVII. 
 
 How TO Thaw Out Celery so as Not to 
 
 Spoil It. 
 
 This refers especially to celery that has 
 frozen after being put in bunches. Such celery 
 should not be handled much. It should be 
 placed in cold water and if it has not been frozen 
 too long the frost will all be drawn out. Never 
 try to thaw celery by heat. Water fresh from 
 the well is best and the celery should be entirely 
 under water. 
 
 LVIII. 
 
 How TO Treat Celery if it Gets Frozen in 
 
 THE Field. 
 
 If frozen in the field if not hilled or banked up 
 it will soon thaw out by the sun or rain. Hill or 
 bank up as high as possible, taking care not to 
 have it too close on top. If time permits let such 
 celery stand as long as possible, giving it a chance 
 to recover from the frost. If after a few days it 
 has grown out of the hills, bank up higher. If 
 there is danger of more hard frost, cover over 
 with dirt entirely. Ii late in the season and 
 weather unsafe, trench or take out and cover 
 
CELERY CULTURE. 89 
 
 with dirt, laying the celery on its side. (For 
 particulars see another chapter.) 
 
 If celery gets frozen in the bank or hill, 
 bank up high at once and cover over, preventing 
 another freezing in. As a general rule celery 
 gets ruined on the second or third night instead 
 of on the first. The early frosts seem to come 
 in numbers of three, the first two nights the 
 most severe. If celery is out in the hill and 
 there is danger of a hard winter coming it is best 
 to throw the celery right out and cover over after 
 laying it sideways as explained in another chap- 
 ter. Always be careful not to handle the frozen 
 part of a celery stalk ; pull out by the lower or 
 butt end. We break the plants out with a spade 
 fork or spade, or plow the celery out with the 
 plow by putting a peculiar curved knife on the 
 landside of the plow. These plows are patented 
 and are sold here. 
 
 LIX. 
 
 How TO Draw the Frost off from Early 
 
 Plants. 
 
 If plants appear to be frozen commence 
 sprinkling them at or before seven o'clock in the 
 morning and continue until revived and the frost 
 
go CELERY CULTURE. 
 
 is out, thus escaping the hot sun of ten o'clock or 
 later. The hot sun on frozen plants of about 
 two inches high and smaller is dangerous. A 
 good watering will soon revive them. On a dark 
 morning if there is no danger of the sun coming 
 out hot, only a little watering is necessary. 
 They will gradually thaw out. Very young 
 plants should be covered over so the frost cannot 
 touch them. As a rule very early out door 
 plants are kept in frames over which can be laid 
 plant bed cloth frames and boards at night to 
 exclude the frost. Plants very nearly ready to 
 be set out need not be covered any more as they 
 can stand it. 
 
 LX. 
 
 How TO Store Celery in an Ordinary Cellar. 
 
 It should be a dry, cool cellar. The celery 
 also must be dry and the decayed leaves trimmed 
 off. Make apartments in the cellar about one 
 foot wide and as long as needed Make of 
 boards or strips as is most convenient. If of 
 boards have them so high that the celery will not 
 touch on the top. In other words have the 
 boards so high that the celery cannot touch that 
 in an adjoining apartment. If the cellar bottom 
 
CELERY CULTURE. 
 
 91 
 
 is dry, sprinkle it well before setting the celery in 
 the apartments. Wilting must be prevented. 
 If desirable to keep the celery a long time, take 
 out to the light occasionally to destroy the 
 white, hairy roots. Every three or four weeks 
 is often enough if the cellar is not too warm. 
 Exclude the light to prevent the leaves turning 
 yellow too soon and watch for the white, hairy 
 roots, and if they get to be one-half to three- 
 fourths inches long they should be destroyed. 
 The cellar bottom must be kept wet enough to 
 prevent wilting and that the hairy roots may 
 grow, which will if the bottom is wet enough. 
 Always set the celery loose enough to pre- 
 vent heating. A few stalks can be set in a 
 box and sand shoveled about them and it will 
 keep in good shape if weather and cellar is cool. 
 
 LXI. 
 
 How TO Irrigate. 
 
 Celery is a native of swampy places and 
 may be termed a semi-aquatic, one of the pre- 
 requisites to its culture being moist, but not wet, 
 soil. So the water must be obtained from other 
 sources if no rain falls. We must irrigate. The 
 best plan is to select a field or patch upon which 
 
92 CELERY CULTURE. 
 
 water may be brought from a stream by dam- 
 ming. The water should be brought to the 
 highest point of the patch and then run 
 through open ditches or trenches to the 
 lower end. If the patch slopes very much 
 little dams should be built in the ditches or 
 furrows a few rods apart to keep back the water 
 and prevent its running off too fast. Let the 
 water fill the trenches nearly to a level with the 
 edges. After the water has soaked through to 
 the middle of the patch let it run off entirely. 
 
 Stir up the soil as soon as possible when it 
 can be done without baking. Never let water 
 stand in the trenches more than two days. 
 If dependent entirely upon irrigating, narrow 
 patches are advisable, say about two rods, which 
 allows the water to get soaked through to the 
 middle more quickly and the ditches can be 
 emptied so much sooner. The appearance 
 of the soil will indicate how far the water has 
 soaked through, as it will look damp on top when 
 sufficiently soaked. Stir up the soil and cultivate 
 after each irrigation to keep the ground in 
 healthy condition and to prevent sourness. As 
 before remarked never leave water standing high 
 in ditches more than two days at longest. If 
 kept in longer it will induce rot and blight in 
 
CELERY CULTURE. 93 
 
 summer and soft celery in autumn, and some- 
 times rot in the roots. 
 
 In southern states, latitude 33° and farther 
 south, it is necessary to irrigate. If no wet 
 mucky soil at hand and no stream near by to 
 dam up for irrigation it is not advisable to try to 
 raise celery except on a small scale, such as could 
 be irrigated with water from a wind mill or arte- 
 sian well. In such cases one patch can be irri- 
 gated three days or so, then turn the flow onto 
 another and so on until all is irrigated ; then 
 commence with the first again if dry. How long 
 it must lie before irrigating again depends upon 
 circumstances. If very hot two weeks or even 
 less ; if cloudy and cool it would not dry so 
 quick. The ground should be examined by dig- 
 ging up a spadeful ; if at a depth of 4 or five 
 inches the water can be pressed from it by 
 squeezing it in the hand, it is wet enough and 
 needs stirring up and cultivating. If it appears 
 dry the water should be turned on. In some 
 places it is necessary to build flumes to carry the 
 water over hollow or low places. If celery is 
 grown on a large scale it pays to build such 
 flumes, even if they are 10 or 20 rods or longer ; 
 if on a small scale it is advisable to irrigate with 
 water from a windmill, etc. 
 
94 CELERY CULTURE. 
 
 LXII. 
 
 About Celery that Runs to Seed. 
 
 The running to seed of celery is largely at- 
 tributed to the fault of the seedsmen. This 
 seems to be a mistake, as at one season a crop 
 of celery was grown from a certain lot of seed 
 and there was not a runner in it so the following 
 season seed was sown from the same lot and 
 behold, to the astonishment of the gardener, 
 more than one-half his crop were seed runners. 
 The third season a little of it was tried again and 
 no runners were in it so it is to be concluded that 
 the season has much to do with it. Experience 
 proves it to be so, as one year there will be lots 
 of runners and the next hardly any, and there 
 seems to be more or less trouble with it every 
 other year. Plants sown early and subject to 
 frost a good many times are more liable to have 
 seed runners than plants sown a little later that 
 have not been stunted in their growth. Avoid 
 setting plants that have been sown very early, 
 especially for a late crop even if they are larger 
 than younger thrifty plants. The larger ones 
 may do if of the White Plume variety, as this 
 variety is not so much subject to running to seed 
 as the green varieties, so for early crop put in the 
 
CELERY CULTURE. 95 
 
 White Plume if the patch is wet enough to grow 
 it. White Plume requires rich ground. 
 
 LXIII. 
 
 Notes on Southern Celery Growing. 
 
 Summer and autumn droughts present such 
 serious obstacles to the growing of celery success- 
 fully, is the reason why so little southern grown 
 is found in the markets. It is a vegetable that 
 requires for its best development moist, bottom 
 soils that are naturally rich in all the elements of 
 plant food. Celery is a marsh plant, in fact, 
 and demands a constant supply of water during 
 the season of growth. In hot weather the evap- 
 oration from its leaves is very great and unless 
 this loss is promptly replaced the plant soon wilts 
 and receives a set back from which it recovers 
 slowly. 
 
 It requires great care and watchfulness in 
 the attempt to grow it with any degree of success 
 on dry uplands, and it must be admitted the ma- 
 jority of gardeners in the south have heretofore 
 failed to make it a profitable crop. Most of them 
 conclude sooner or later that the crop costs more 
 than it comes to, taking the seasons as they 
 come. 
 
96 CELERY CULTURE. 
 
 This refers to summer or late spring set cel- 
 ery which is intended for fall and early winter 
 maturity. There is no question that it can be 
 grown with some degree of success under a sys- 
 tem of mulching and irrigation, of watering, but 
 the generality of gardeners in the south are not 
 painstaking enough to make anything like a great 
 success of the work. 
 
 A plant so useful as celery should be grown 
 in every garden, even if it is not blanched for 
 market purposes. It is not necessary to tell 
 those who have had experience that the process 
 of blanching with soil in the average dry and hot 
 southern autumns causes the loss of much celery 
 that had been very promising up to that time. 
 There is no need for blanching celery that is only 
 used for seasoning or that is to be cooked and 
 served Hke asparagus. But few persons compar- 
 atively are aware what a choice dish cooked cel- 
 ery makes when properly cooked and served with 
 butter, pepper, etc. It is generally used as a raw 
 salad, simply eaten with salt. When blanched 
 and used while fresh and crisp it is a dish always 
 relished by cultivated tastes and, as is well known, 
 possesses a therapeutic value in nearly all cases 
 of nervous disorder. 
 
CELERY CULTURE. 97 
 
 The old time way of growing celery was to 
 set out the plants in late spring or early summer, 
 in deep trenches that had been dug out and ma- 
 nured a few weeks previously. The tall growing 
 kinds were mostly used and the trenches made 
 3!/^ to 4 feet apart. This plan has been greatly 
 modified of late years, and the coarse, tall^ half- 
 hollow sort entirely discarded along with the deep 
 trenches. The kinds usually grown by amateurs 
 now are the dwarf and half dwarf varieties, such 
 as the Boston Market, Golden Dwarf, White 
 Plume, Crawford's Half Dwarf. There is also a 
 red variety much liked by some. Of course, new 
 names are added every year and some are very 
 desirable kinds. There is the Mammoth Solid 
 for those who prefer the large kind. These 
 dwarf kinds are set closely in furrows made by 
 the plow, not deeper than three or four inches and 
 rows 2^ to 3 feet apart, and by judicious culti- 
 vation kept growing until September, when the 
 dirt is gradually drawn to the plants and the pro- 
 cess of blanching begun. 
 
g8 CELERY CULTURE. 
 
 LXIV. 
 
 The Bed System is Best in Small Gardens in 
 
 THE South. 
 
 Beds 3 to 3^ feet wide and long as desired, 
 deeply broken, well manured, if necessary, with 
 some non-heating manure and well raked, is pre- 
 pared in due time for the plants, which should 
 be of good size to transplant by March 15, for 
 the earliest crop, and other plants should be held 
 in reserve, or a late sowing of seed made for 
 transplanting in May or June. Seed sown in 
 January or February and the plants not pushed 
 by cultivation will furnish the plants in proper 
 time for the late crop. When ready to set out 
 level the beds and roll slightly, and carefully set 
 the selected plants in the bed 10x12 inches apart. 
 Press the soil firmly to the roots and apply 
 enough water to insure the rapid formation of 
 new roots. The plants, once well established, 
 only shallow hoeing, sufficient to keep the grass 
 and weeds in check, should be given until the 
 summer heat sets in ; then between the plants 
 should be well mulched with pine straw, handhng 
 the celery so that only the leaves are exposed to 
 the sun. During protracted dry weather water 
 must be supplied if the plants show the least dis- 
 
CELERY CULTURE. 99 
 
 position to wilt. Later in the fall additional 
 mulching, for the purpose of blanching, must be 
 given. Blanching can be secured with the use 
 only of straw, and old newspapers may be called 
 into use to lightly enfold the plants. Blanching 
 with soil is to be avoided whenever practicable. 
 
 LXV. 
 
 Wheel Dibber. 
 
 It can be made easily and cheaply. In the 
 first place get a piece of maple, oak or other hard 
 wood log, say 15 inches in diameter and a foot 
 long. This should be turned nicely and a hole 
 bored through for a bolt to serve as an axle. 
 Handles to be attached should be 1^x2 inches 
 and about five or six feet long of oak elm or ash. 
 A hole must be bored through them three inches 
 from one end for the axle bolt to go through. 
 Eight inches of the other end is whittled round 
 and smooth for the hands and a t^ouple of cross 
 bars should be nailed on to make it rigid. It is 
 then a roller and may be used for that purpose 
 in the garden, following after the seed sower or 
 in any place where the use of a small roller is de- 
 sirable. Inch holes are bored in a circle around 
 the roller, middle way between the two ends, five 
 
lOO CELERY CULTURE. 
 
 inches apart, and short wooden pegs or pins are 
 inserted to act as dibbers. The weight of the 
 roller presses each peg clear down into the soil, 
 and thus holes just right for the young plants are 
 made as fast as a person can walk. Of course 
 the size of the roller should be such that the cir- 
 cumference is about 35, 40 or 45 inches, other- 
 wise the pegs must be inserted nearer together 
 or further apart. 
 
 LXVI. 
 
 SuBsoiLiNG, Etc. 
 Retaining Moisture in the Soil. 
 
 The means of retaining soil moisture are 
 various, including subsoil plowing, mulching, roll- 
 ing, surface cultivation during the growing period 
 and increasing in the soil the supply of humus, 
 or as it may be more simply, the supply of veg- 
 etable matter. Any gardener in the land may 
 adopt these measures with profit, and so in- 
 tensely applicable are they that he may begin to 
 practice them at once. 
 
 Subsoil plowing or subsoiling as it is some- 
 times called, is the stirring of the soil to a greater 
 or less depth which immediately underlies the 
 area that is ordinarily cultivated. In subsoiHng 
 
CELERY CULTURE. lOI 
 
 the under soil is only broken up ; it is not 
 brought to the surface. It is usually done by 
 running a plow of peculiar make in the furrow 
 which has been last made by an ordinary plow 
 where plowing is being done. But it would also 
 be correct to say that a farmer subsoils in a sense 
 when he plows more deeply than he has plowed 
 heretofore. One of the chief objections to that 
 kind of subsoiling is the large quantities of sub- 
 soil earth which it brings up to the surface at one 
 time. Subsoil earth is usually inferior in avail- 
 able plant food to surface earth until the ele- 
 ments work upon it, hence it should only be 
 brought up very gradually. Subsoiling gives 
 land greater power to retain moisture on the 
 principle, first, that it disturbs the numerous lit- 
 tle channels through which water has heretofore 
 passed downward into the lower subsoil; second, 
 by increasing the size of the interstices between 
 the particles, so that more room is made for the 
 retention of the water ; and, third, it gives the 
 land thus stirred greater power to arrest moisture 
 ascending from a deeper source and to hold it 
 for plants. And it allows the rootlets of plants 
 the more readily to go downward and gather 
 moisture and food than they could have done 
 under other conditions. 
 
I02 
 
 CELERY CULTURE. 
 
 Subsoiling is by no means equally helpful in 
 thus increasing the absorption powers of soils. 
 With some soils it actually decreases this power 
 
 o 
 
 o 
 
 m 
 
 cq 
 
 CO 
 
 by increasing their porosity to too great an ex- 
 tent. And no two kinds of soil, differing in their 
 physical and mechanical constituents, are equally 
 
CELERY CULTURE. IO3 
 
 affected by the process. The stiffest clays re- 
 ceive the most benefit, and the extent of the ben- 
 efit decreases with the divergence from clay in 
 the direction of greater porosity, until finally a 
 point is reached when the benefit from subsoiling 
 ceases entirely. Where coarse sand, therefore, 
 or gravel lies near the surface, labor spent in 
 subsoiling would seem futile. The power in such 
 soils to hold water must be increased by other 
 measures if increased at all. 
 
 The retention of soil moisture through 
 mulching has received far too little attention. 
 The winds of the prairie blow with more or less 
 constancy through all the year. As the summer 
 advances these winds become hot and dry and in 
 proportion as they increase in warmth and dry- 
 ness just in that proportion do they bear away 
 more moisture from the soil. And in proportion 
 as the soil is robbed of moisture will it be found 
 that the crop suffers from lack of moisture. Now 
 something can be done by means of mulching to 
 stop this rapid evaporation of soil moisture. 
 The straw that now goes up in smoke can be 
 turned into litter and manure and then used as a 
 mulch. If there is danger sometimes from bury- 
 ing such coarse litter under the soil there is no 
 hazard in thus spreading it over the surface. 
 
I04 CELERY CULTURE. 
 
 Soils thus protected will retain their moisture 
 very much better than if not so protected, and 
 the litter and the manure mixed with it will also 
 tend to enrich them. 
 
 LXVII. 
 
 How TO Make a Hotbed. 
 
 Definition. — It is a box or frame without 
 bottom or top, made for one, two or more sash. 
 It may be made permanent of brick or stone, or 
 temporary of plank or one inch common boards, 
 the back board about twenty inches high, one- 
 half greater elevation than the front, which 
 should be twelve to fourteen mches — the whole 
 made to support a sash or several of any dimen- 
 sions, the best of about three by six feet. 
 
 The back being higher than the front gives 
 a declivity to the sash, thus casting off the rain, 
 which it would not do if flat. 
 
 The box at proper season is placed upon a bed 
 of fermenting material, which, making a gentle 
 and continuous heat, warms up a layer of soil 
 resting upon it, and thus germinates seed and 
 forces plants into rapid growth. 
 
 Manure. — The value of the bed depends 
 principally upon the character of the fermenting 
 
CELERY CULTURE. 
 
 105 
 
 material. This should be horse manure forked 
 over two or three times at intervals of a week 
 and kept in a deep and compact pile till it begins 
 
 to smoke or steam, indicating that the process of 
 fermentation has set in. If the dung be very 
 rich in grain an addition of forest leaves is desir- 
 able, as they serve to prolong the period of fer- 
 mentation, which might otherwise be too rapid. 
 Location and making. — Select an unob- 
 structed southerly exposure and if some building 
 or tight board fence be situated so as to ward off 
 the cold northwest winds it will be favorable ; 
 also, a well-drained location, and one never 
 flooded by rain ; excavate a pit one or two feet 
 deep and one foot longer and one foot 
 broader than the box. Into this place six inches 
 
I06 CELERY CULTURE. 
 
 of rough barnyard manure, corn stalks, leaves or 
 straw, for drainage, and on it lightly fork in the 
 fermenting dung and tramp it firmly down to a 
 depth of two feet. Place on the box and fit the 
 sash lightly, cover with mats and allow fermenta- 
 tion to again proceed, banking up with hot ma- 
 nure on the outside all around at an angle of 45°. 
 Place on top of the manure a layer of three 
 inches of rich, moist, finely pulverized soil. In a 
 day or so the temperature will rise to 120°. 
 When the temperature has fallen to 90° destroy 
 all the weeds which have sprouted and sow the 
 seed. Cover every night with mats to exclude 
 frost and give air during the day, never allowing 
 the temperature to fall below 50° or rise above 
 90°. The secret of growing good plants is to 
 give plenty of air, else the plants will be sickly, 
 spindly specimens. Short, stocky plants are 
 what are desired. 
 
 Care of hot beds. — Water evenings. Re- 
 move the mats every morning about 9 o'clock, 
 give air about 10 o'clock. Cut off the air in 
 the afternoon as soon as the air becomes 
 chilly. Cover with mats before sunset. Hot 
 beds should be covered early in the evening to 
 retain their heat, and in the morning uncovered 
 when the sun rests upon the glass, as every effort 
 
CELERY CULTURE. IO7 
 
 should b^ made to give the plants all the sun- 
 light possible, as its rays are vivifying to a degree 
 beyond the amount of its heat, it having a chem- 
 ical and physiological effect beyond explana- 
 tion. Even dull light is better than no light, 
 consequently it is a bad plan to cover sashes with 
 mats, except for the direct purpose of keeping 
 out cold. Success depends on bottom heat from 
 the manure, top heat from the sun, water from 
 daily application, and air at midday. Without 
 plenty of air the other requisites will be fruitless. 
 
 Artificial heat. — We have known locations 
 where horse manure for hot beds was not readily 
 obtained, and to meet such conditions we give 
 the following directions for manufacturing a fer- 
 menting material for the production of a mod- 
 erate and continuous heat, the quantities named 
 being sufficient for a box seven by twelve feet : 
 Take as the crude materials, 500 lbs. of Straw, 3 
 bushels Powdered Quicklime, 6 lbs. Muriatic 
 Acid, 6 lbs. Saltpetre. 
 
 Having prepared the excavation of proper 
 dimensions, spread three or four inches of forest 
 leaves or old hay in the bottom. Upon that 
 spread eight inches of the straw, tramp it down 
 and sprinkle with one-third part of the quicklime. 
 Dilute the six pounds of muriatic acid with 20 
 
I08 CELERY CULTURE. 
 
 gallons of water, and by means of an old broom, 
 sprinkle the bed with one-third part of the solu- 
 tion. Make another layer of eight inches of 
 straw, applying quicklime and the acid as before. 
 Repeat for a third layer. Upon this make a 
 fourth layer of straw, and upon it sprinkle the 
 four pounds of saltpetre dissolved in thirty gal- 
 lons of water. Place the box in position, bank 
 up outside, within the box spread four inches 
 rich, finely pulverized earth and put on the sash. 
 A heat will soon be generated which will continue 
 for two or three weeks. 
 
Irrigating by Hydraulic Rams. 
 
 Where two to fifteen feet or more fall can he secured by a good 
 running spring or stream, and irrigating has to be depended upon occa- 
 sionally for moisture, and water cannot be brought on the field by 
 ditches, it would pay celery gardeners to put in Hydraulic Rams- 
 They work continually if a good make is secured. The expense after 
 the machine is set is no more than one dollar per year. Great precau- 
 tion should be used to get a make that does not water log and hammer 
 itself to pieces. They generally raise the water pumped, 25 feet 
 to every foot fall, and deliver y^ of the water used to drive it. 
 Thousands and thousands of streams run now to waste that could be 
 successfully harnessed up for rams to irrigate crops. 
 
no CELERY CULTURE. 
 
 BRIEF COUNSEL. 
 
 1. When setting plants, avoid covering the heart 
 of the plant. 
 
 2. Do not set deeper than they stood in the 
 plant bed. 
 
 3. In dry weather trim an inch or so off the tops 
 of the plants and cover the roots thoroughly with wet 
 mud before setting. 
 
 4. Always trim the points off the long tap roots. 
 
 5. If your early plant beds, under glass or other- 
 wise, in early spring, get over-watered so the soil be- 
 comes green, let it become so dry that the green crust 
 will scale off. It will, thus treated, become healthy 
 again. 
 
 6. If you are troubled with cut worms in celery, 
 dig the ''varmint" out and kill him. They lay close by 
 the plant severed and just below the surface. 
 
 7. When setting plants press the soil firmly 
 around the roots without bruising the plant. 
 
 8. If ground is hard and you do not have a 
 pinned marker, use a dibble for making holes for plants; 
 if soil is soft and nice, use the finger. 
 
 9. If your rows were tramped down so much that 
 the plants stand in a narrow trench, with a hoe draw 
 
CELERY CULTURE. Ill 
 
 the edge away from the rows, depositing it evenly over 
 the space between. You thus avoid having the plants 
 washed under by rains or having them stand in a hot 
 trench and wilt after setting. You can also work it 
 better with the wheel hoe. 
 
 10. Two pieces of board 5x10 inches with the 
 lower edges rounded off and fastened on a pair of rub- 
 bers that fit your boot or shoe, make excellent tools to 
 trample seed bed or rows with. 
 
 11. Before banking up with dirt go along and 
 pull every weed out of the rows you intend to bank up. 
 In autumn clean out even that webby substance from 
 the rows, preventing rust and rot thereby. 
 
 12. When trenching celery set it straight up. 
 By standing with your back toward the celery set up, 
 you can kick the roots back from time to time. They 
 are larger than the stalk itself and if not kicked back 
 will gain on you so much that the celery in the trench 
 is in a crooked, leaning condition, which must be 
 avoided. 
 
 13. When irrigating celery let the water run 
 along in furrows. Remember, celery likes a moist soil, 
 but it is not an aquatic, so do not let water stand in or 
 run through same patch longer than two days at a time. 
 
 14. Never plant celery for a second crop between 
 early cabbage, as, from my experience here, the celery 
 does not thrive. 
 
 15. Never lay boards on top of trenched celery. 
 It will rot very quick under them. 
 
112 CELERY CULTURE. 
 
 i6. A "Handy" hand weeder is useful for clean- 
 ing weeds from the rows. 
 
 17. Never water your seed bed or hot bed in 
 early spring until dry. Watering too much at a time 
 when the sun is not strong and while the weather is still 
 cold will make the beds sour and green crusted. 
 
 18. For plant beds select a spot or soil that is 
 not overloaded with weeds. 
 
IINII3EC:?C 
 
 I. How to test seed . . . .5 
 
 II. Varieties best adapted to different cli- 
 mates . . , . . 6 
 
 III. Preparing seed bed for upland, clay, 
 
 etc. ...... 7 
 
 IV. Preparing seed bed for low land . 9 
 V. To avoid sprinkling seed bed . . 9 
 
 VI. To get strong, stocky plants . . 11 
 
 VII. To raise two crops on same bed . . 12 
 
 VIII. To get plants up before weeds . 14 
 
 IX. To get early plants without hot beds . 16 
 
 X. To grow early celery . . . 16 
 
 XI. Varieties adapted for early crop . . 18 
 
 XII. Two or more crops in same field . 18 
 
 XIII. Tillage in dry weather . . .20 
 
 XIV. Ditches 21 
 
 XV. Tillage . . . . ' . .23 
 
 XVI. Fertilizers ..... 24 
 
 XVII. Early plants without expensive hot 
 
 beds . . . . . .26 
 
 XVIII. Bleaching with dirt ... 28 
 
 XIX. Bleaching without dirt . . -30 
 
 XX. Size for bleaching .... 31 
 
INDEX. 
 
 CHAPTER. PAGE. 
 
 XXL Earthing up for winter use . , -32 
 
 XXII. To earth up without trenching . 35 
 
 XXIII. To have celery for Christmas . . 37 
 
 XXIV. To have celery in February, March 
 
 and April .... 38 
 
 XXV. Building and use of storage coops . 39 
 
 XXVI. To prepare for high or low land . 40 
 
 XXVII. Late crop in bean field . . .42 
 
 XXVIII. Tools 43 
 
 XXIX. To prepare for eastern and western 
 
 markets . . . . .46 
 
 XXX. To wash it quickly ... 47 
 
 XXXI. Boxes for shipping . . . .48 
 
 XXXII. How to pack 48 
 
 XXXIII. When to break up soil . . -49 
 
 XXXIV. To use horses without miring . 53 
 XXXV. To do all work except planting with 
 
 horses . . . . -54 
 
 XXXVI. Immense profit from second crop . 55 
 
 XXXVII. Varieties to plant for late crop . . 56 
 
 XXXVIII. To manage without tiling . . 60 
 
 XXXIX. To manage low, peaty soil . . 61 
 
 XL. To prevent blight . . . 62 
 
 XLI. To get celery from an onion field . (57 
 
 XLII. To prevent rot in trenches . . 68 
 
 XLIII. To prepare for planting two crops in 
 
 three days . . . . . 6g 
 
 XLIV. To get four crops from one field, south 
 
 of Michigan .... 70 
 
 XLV. To keep dressed celery a long time . 72 
 
 XLVI. To make transplanter ... 72 
 
 XLVII. To save time with it . . . -73 
 
INDEX. 
 
 CHAPTER. PAGE. 
 
 XLVIII. To grow celery on poor land , . 74 
 
 XLIX. To grow celery on high land . . 75 
 
 L. To get black dirt out of sandy soil . 78 
 
 LI. To get two late crops from one field . 79 
 
 LII. To set plants in dry or wet weather . 82 
 
 LIII. To prevent land from becoming flooded 
 
 with little expense . . . 84 
 
 LIV. To get long celery quick . . 85 
 
 LV. To prevent celery from getting soft . 87 
 
 LVI. To trim celery for market . . 87 
 
 LVII. To thaw out celery . . . .88 
 
 LVIII. To treat celery if frozen in field . 88 
 
 LIX. To draw frost from early plants . . 89 
 
 LX. To store celery in cellar . . 90 
 
 LXI. To irrigate . . . . • 91 
 
 LXII. Celery that runs to seed . , 94 
 
 LXIII. Notes on southern celery growing . 95 
 
 LXIV. The bed system .... 98 
 
 LXV. Wheel dibber 99 
 
 LXVI. Subsoiling, etc. .... 100 
 
 LXVII. To make hot bed .... 104 
 
 Irrigating by hydraulic rams . . 109 
 
 Brief counsel . . . . .110