ARLY VOYAGES UP AND DOWN THE MISSISSIPPI, by Cavelier, St. Cosme, Le Sueur, Gravier, and Guignas. With an Introduction, Notes, and an Index by John Gilmary Shea. Class _T~^ Z5Z Book_ .Src, EARLY VOYAGES UP AND DOWN THE MISSISSIPPI, BY CAVELIER, ST. COSME, LE SUEUR, GRAVIER, AND GUIGNAS. With an Introduction ^ Notes ^ and an Index^ By JOHN GILMARY SHEA. ALBANY : JOEL MUNSELL. 1861 Five hundred copies reprinted for Joseph McDonough Albany, N. Y. I go 2 No. ^3.J//i_C^^ TO THE MICHIGAN, WISCONSIN, AND IOWA HISTORICAL SOCIETIES, AS A TOKEN OF MEMBERSHIP, THIS VOLUME IS OFFERED BY JOHN GILMARY SHEA. CONTENTS. Page, Preface, ------ --^ Introdudion, ------ j I. Cavelier's account of La Salle's Voyage to the Mouth of the Mifliflippi ; his landing in Texas and march to the Miffiffippi, 13 II. Voyage down the Miffiffippi in 1699, ^7 ^^^ Rev. Meffi-s. Montigny, St. Cofme, Da- vion and Thaumur de la Source, - - 43 III. Le Sueur's Voyage up the Miffiffippi in 1699-1700, ----- 87 IV. Gravier's Voyage down and up the Miffif- fippi in 1700, - - - - 113 V. Guignas's Voyage up the Miffiffippi, - 165 Appendix, Letter of La Salle from Texas, 177 B ■ ■■■■■■■■■■■■tiimif ■^■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■w««i«»j»» PREFACE. %HE Narratives colleEied in this Volume form a Sequel to thofe Accounts already publijhed of the Explorations under Marquette and ha Salle^^ and refer chiefly to the Mo- ment of the permanent French Occupation of the Lower Mijftjftppi, They are derived from various Sources, The Journal of Mr, John Cavelier^ La Salle's Brother^ though fpoken of by Joutel^ remained unpublijhed till Mr, Francis Parkman allowed me to Print it from a Manufcript in his Pojfeffton, The Letters of Mr. de Montigni of the Se- minary of ^ebec and his Ajjociates^ I owe to viii Preface. the Kindnefs of the fame Friend, Le Sueur s Voyage is taken from Benard de la Harpe^ already in Print, The Voyage of Gravier is from the limited Edition printed from the Manufcript in the Profejfed Houfe in Paris. The Letter of Father Guignas^ detailing as it does the Eflablijhment of Fort Beauharnats at Lake Pepin^ was furnijhed to me by the Kindnefs of J. Carfon Brevoort^ Efq, While this Volume was printing,^ Col. Delafield fent me Tomajfys Geologic Pra- tique de la Louifiane, which I had been unable to procure here in Seafon^ and fro7n it I extraSied the Letter of La Salle s given in the Appendix,^ and which refers dire&ly to the fir fl Article. New York, 1861. INTRODUCTION. ANY a river lives embalmed in hiftory and in hiftorick verfe. The Euphrates, the Nile, the Jordan, the Tiber and the Rhine typify the courfe of empires and dynafties. Countries have been defcribed per jiumina^ but thefe ftreams poffefs renown rather from fome city that frowned on their currents, or fome battle fought and won on their banks. The great River of our Weft, from its immenfe length and the ftill increafing import- ance of its valley, polfeffes a hiftory of its own. Its difcovery by the Spanifti adventurers, a Cabeza de Vaca, a de Soto, a Triftan, who reached, crofted, or followed it, is its period of early romance, brilliant, brief, and tragick. Its exploration by Marquette and La Salle follows, work of patient endurance and viii IntroduEiion. inveftigation, ftill tinged with that hght of heroifm that hovers around all who ftruggle through diffi- culty and adverfity to attain a great and ufeful end. Then come the early voyages depicting the fucceffive ftages of its banks from a wildernefs to civilization. The death of La Salle in Texas in his attempt to reach Illinois clofes the chapter of exploration. Iberville opens a new period by his voyage to the mouth of the Miffiffippi, which crowning the pre- vious efforts gave the valley of the great river to civilization, Chriftianity and progrefs. The river had become an objed: of rivalry. Englifh, French and Spanifh at the fame moment fought to fecure its mouth, but fortune favored the bold Canadian, and the white flag reared by La Salle was planted anew. Here our narratives begin. Cavelier's is a page of the previous chapter; with ftrange details and doubtful authenticity, marked, like every other ac- count of La Salle's career, with a note of fufpicion, yet curious and ftrange. Did La Salle acftually reach the Miffiffippi prior to his death, as here aflerted } We may doubt it. After Cavelier and Joutel reached Illinois to de- ceive Tonti by reprefenting La Salle as alive, that IntroduSiion, ix noble veteran defcended the river to relieve his commanded but in vain. Traders then doubtlefs drifted down to barter for furs, but v^re have no narrative till that of the mif- fionary party led by M. de Montigny, who in 1698 fet out to evangelize the tribes of the lower Milfif- fippi. Impetuous, ardent, but eafily difcouraged, the leader foon loft heart, and involved in difputes which he did not forefee, fought a remote field in Afia for his zeal, to be plunged in troubles even more vexatious. But his companions remained to labor on the banks of the Mifliffippi, St. Cofme to die at laft by the hand of the red man, Davion and de la Source to labour and to wait Iberville arrives. His narrative would here find a place, but it is a volume in itfelf. The news of his landing fpread from tribe to tribe. The north- ern nations, led by the golden promifes of La Salle, expedled all blefTings from this ftep. The Illinois prepared to move in a body to the lower Miffiffippi. Gravier checks their mad projed: and floats down in his canoe to fee how matters are. His journal, like the letters of St. Cofme and his companions, defcribe the river and the tribes upon it, as he found t.hem at this important moment in the hiflory X. Introdu&wn. of the river. His next voyage down was to feek in the new colony furgical affiftance for wounds which the medicine men had inflicted, and which baffling the fkill of the phyfician proved fatal to the miflionary. Befides Iberville's own account and as a pendant to it, comes the voyage from the mouth of the MifTifTippi to the Blue Earth, effeded in canoe by the intrepid Le Sueur. Fortunately Benard de la Harpe has preferved this, and it blends with the others to give a complete pidure of the river. Then for Tome years itineraries of the MifTifTippi fail us, and we have accounts of portions only. The Urfulines defcribe briefly the voyage to New Orleans, others do the fame; an officer in the Chickafaw war details day by day the march up the river to Fort AfTumption. The letter of Guignas follows in part the track of Le Sueur, and records the planting of Fort Beauharnais. At the moment when thefe narratives take us to the valley of the Miffiffippi that immenfe territory prefented a ftrange contrafi: to its prefent condition. From its head waters amid the lakes of Minnefota to its mouth ; from its weftern fprings in the heart of the Rocky mountains to its eaftern cradle in the IntroduEiion. xi 'Alleghanies, all was yet in its primeval ftate. The Europeans had but one fpot, Tonty's little fort; no white men roamed it but the trader or the miffion- ary. With a fparfe and fcattered Indian population, the country, teeming with buffalo, deer and game, was a fcene of plenty. The Indian has vanifhed from its banks with the game that he purfued. The valley numbers as many ftates now as it did white men then ; a bufy, enterprifing, adventurous population, numbering its millions, has fwept away the unprogreflive and unaffimilating red man. The languages of the Illinois, the Quapaw, the Tonica, the Natchez, the Ouma, are heard no more by the banks of the great water; no calumet now throws round the traveller its charmed power; the white banner of France floated long to the breeze, but with the flag of England and the ftandard of Spain all dif- appeared we may fay within a century. For fifty years, one fingle flag met the eye, and appealed to the heart of the inhabitants of the fhores of the Miffif- lippi. Two now divide it : let us hope that the altered flag may foon refume its original form, and meet the heart's warm refponfe at the mouth as at the fource of the Mifliflippi. I. CAVELIER'S ACCOUNT OP LA SALLE'S VOYAGE TO THE MOUTH OF THE MISSISSIPPI, HIS LANDING IX TEXAS, AND MARCH TO THE MISSISSIPPI. RELATION OF M. CAVELIER. ONSEIGNEUR : You have here the Relation Jg"g>' of the Voyage undertaken by my brother^ to difcover in the Gulf of Mexico the Mouth of the Miffiffipy. An unexpeded and tragical death having prevented his completing it, and reporting to your Lordfliip, you will, I truft, approve of my taking his place. 1 The Rev. John Cavclier, brother of La Salle, was born at Rouen. Of his early life and en- trance into the community of St. Sulpice, I find no account. After the death of his brother, he with Joutel and Father Anaftatius made his way to Canada, and thence to France, concealing the fate of La Salle, it is faid, for upwards of two years. He applied to the Court to fend out a new expedition, and fail- ing in this he retired to Rouen, to the houfe of his fifter, Mary Mag- dalen Cavelier, wife of the Sieur Fortin or Le Foreftier, Secretary to the King, and died there after 1 7 1 7. " Robert Cavelier de la Salle, was born at Rouen in Normandy, of a rich and ancient family, and after receiving a good education entered the King's fervice. The ftatement made by the late edi- i6 La Salle s Laji Voyage. J^Jy In the month of July, 1 684,3 we left la Rochelle in four vefTels with very fine weather. The feafon feemed to promife us a continuance thereof, and (hould not in all probability lead us to fear either tions of Hennepin, that he enter- ed the Society of Jefus and thus loft his fhare in his father's eftate, feems, like other ftatements of that work, unreliable. An examination of all the annual catalogues of all the French provinces of the epoch, (hows no fuch name among the novices or fcholaftics. The pre- ceding note and this narrative men- tion all his relatives of whom any account is given. He came to Ca- nada about 1668, and an appa- rently apocryphal account makes him foon after difcover and defcend the Ohio (feeDuffieux, Le Canada fous le domination Francaife). As a trader he voyaged extenfively on the Lakes, and built a trading houfe at La Chine, which owes its name to him, an index of his defires. His firft official employment was to vifit the Senecas, and invite them to a general Congrefs of the tribes. He had gained the good will of Frontenac and propofed to him vaft plans of difcovery and trade, which received his fandion. The French Court in 1 6/ 5, granted him Fort Frontenac and the feigneury, on condition of keeping it in repair, maintaining a garrifon and clearing the land. He obtained alfo a pa- tent of noblefie. For a time he pufhed forward trade and coloniza- tion at Fort Frontenac (now King- fton) and built the firft veiTcl that ever ploughed the furface of Lake Ontario. Obtaining new grants in 1678, he puftied on to Niagara, built a vefTel there, and again the pioneer of Weftern navigation, failed through Lakes Erie, St. Clair and Huron to Mackinac, Sending ba:k his vefiel with a load of furs, he proceeded in canoes to the Illinois country, building a fort on the St. Jofeph's river, and another on the Illinois, whofe name, Crevecoeur, records his defpondency at receiving no tidings of his bark or fupplies from Frontenac. Left unfupported, he returned by land to his fort on Lake Ontario ; but while abfent his party were driven from the Illinois by the Senecas, and La Salle on his arrival at Fort Crevecoeur found it deferted. After fome fearch he joined Tonty at Mackinaw. Here reorganizing his party he defcended the Illinois To the Miffiffippi, and followed that river to its mouth, which he reached April 9, 1682. Returning to France, he fought to make the mouth of the river by fea. He failed to difcover it, was abandoned in Texas, and in an attempt to reach Canada, was killed by his own men, March 19, 1687. See his Life by Sparks, vol i. N. S. American Biography, "The Dif- covery and Exploration of the Mif- fiffippi," &c. 3 In another Memoir he gives the date as July 23 or 24. Cavelier's Account, 17 a calm or great heats. Neverthelefs the clofe J-^y* of the month brought a ftorm, which difmafted *"** the vefTel+my brother was in, and compelled us all to put back to the port from which we had ftarted.5 We fet fail again, and a few days after a fecond ftorm difperfed our Httle fleet; the St. Fran9ois^ was taken by Spanifh cruifers, and the other three got together only at Petit Goave in St. Domingo. I will not give your Lordfhip the detail of our courfe or manoeuvres to that point, as that is not my profeflion. If thefe unfortunate accidents damped the ardor of our adventurers, the condudt of Mr. de Beaujeu, Captain of a Ihip of the line,7 who commanded one of the fhips of the fleet, did fo no lefs; and if your Lordfhip takes pains to examine, you will find that that officer, jealous of my brother's having the principal authority and the diredtion of the enter- prife, fo traverfed it, that the failure may be attri- buted to him,^ ^T'i"^^^^^^ ^^^ ^^ J°^* *^°"^" ^ '^" ^^''^^ contained provi- manded by Mr. de Beaujeu, the fions and agricultural implements Commander of the fleet, whofe per- for the colony, and the lofs was verfenefs caufed the ruin of all con- confequently a ferious one. cemed. Joutel, p. 15, and Cave- , . , , ^ ,. lier, in another Memoir, hint that . ^ J°"'^* ^^"^ Cavelier, in ano- the breaking of the foremaft was . Memoir, dilate on the trouble planned. ^"^ Beaujeu, and Cavelier there in- troduces a particular account of La 5 Joutel fays they put in at Roche- ^^^^ dangerous illnefs at St. Do- fort, p. 15. Father Le Clercq fays '"'"SO- at Chef-de-bois, which agrees with 8 The French diftinguifh as dif- Caveber ; Chef-de-bois being the ferent ranb Captain of a frigate and roadftead before la Rochelle. Captain of a man-of-war or (hip "of the line. 1 8 La Salle s Laft Voyage, Its'- ^^ made fome ftay at Petit Goave to give our crew a little refrefliment and to prepare to carry- out the proje(ft conveniently. There Mr. de Beaujeu began to employ all means that he could invent to prevent my brother from going further ; neverthe- lefs we fet fail towards the latter part of November, intending to reconnoitre the land ten or twenty leagues north of the mouth of the river, but head winds having forced us to put back feveral times ; my brother at laft determined to explore Florida, whatever point we made, but Mr. de Beaujeu did not follow him. He abandoned us, under pretext of having been furprifed by a fquall. '685. On the fixth of January,? we made the coaft of Florida, and fuppoiing ourfelves north of the mouth of the river, we failed foutherly along the coaft, crowding fail, for fear of being forced by the cur- rents into Bahama channel. Some days after, on taking the altitude, we found ourfelves fifty leagues fouth, which obliged us to turn back and retrace our fteps. Still coafting along, we^ difcovered Efpiritu Santo Bay,'° where we found Mr, de Beaujeu ; my brother had a long conference with him there, at the clofe of which the three veflels fet fail to pur- fue the fearch. The next morning Mr. de Beaujeu fent his long boat to my brother to tell him that he had failed fifty leagues fince he left Efpiritu Santo Bay, and that difcovering inland, a kind of gulf or river, it 9 Joutel, p. 34, makes them reach 'o Joutel fays January 8. knd in December. • Feb. 4. Cavalier's Account. 19 might be the Mifliffipy, and that he had no orders February, to go any further ; my brother allowed himfelf to * ^" be perfuaded that this might be one of the arms of that river ; and having fent out his boat to found, he found three and a half fathoms of water in the fhalloweft part of the channel, and entered with his veffel. He ordered the pink to unload as much as poflible, and to wait till he fent a pilot to bring her in, but this was fo badly done that flie ftruck on a fand bar and could not get off." Meanwhile Mr. de Beaujeu, who had anchored off, wrote to my brother, and fent the letter by his lieutenant." He told him, that having reached the mouth of the Mifliffipy he believed that he had fufficiently fulfilled his duty ; that having feen the pink perifh before his eyes, he did not think it proper to rilk entering the river with his (hip, for fear of a like mifhap : that having no more provi- fions or refrefhments, he was determined to return to France, and he begged him to fend his letters for the Court, with his exoneration from all the accidents that had happened, or might thereafter happen. My brother moft generoufly granted all. Monfieur de Beaujeu having accordingly hoifted fail for France,*3 my brother undertook to do three March 14. "Joutel, p, 79, andLeClercqin- Dainmaville and fome others, and cline to think the lofs of the Aimable refufed to give La Salle the cannon intentional on the part of the captain, and cannon balls in his hold- i» The Chevalier d'Aire. Beau- » 3 Le Clercq fays the 1 2th ; Joutel ieu took with hini the captain and from recollection, the 14th, crew of the Aimable, Rev. Mr. 20 Lci Salle's Loft Voyage. March, things at once : one was to make a ftorehoufe on {here to lay up his ammunition and provifions, merchandife and other things ; the other was to go himfelf with thirty or forty men to feled: a fuitable place for a fettlement at the end of the bay ; and the other to bring his vefTel as far as he could into the bay. All this was executed ; for the vefTel was brought up to the mouth of a river to which the name of Vache^^ (Cow) was given, on account of the number of that animal found there, and here he built a little fort of fourteen guns, with fmall but pretty convenient houfes, and florehoufes fuffi- cient to contain all that we had. '5 Meanwhile my brother, originally under the idea that the river we were in was one of the arms of the Miffiffipy, on account of the quantity of reeds it bore down to the fea, at laft faw his error and formed the defign of difcovering it by land ; but unable to leave his fort without expofing it to the infults of the neareft Indians, who were waging n'^men'lilS ^ cruel War on us'^=^ (believing us Spaniards), he arrows. cndeavorcd to gain their confidence and friendfhip. i4Aftenvards called by the Span- fiffippi, p. 207) both defcribe this iards La Vaca river, which name it Fort as St. Louis. According to ilill retains, the only name in Texas the former it was at 27° N., two of La Salle's. The Fache here leagues from the Bay, near the banks evidently means the Bifon, though ofLa Vaca river, which lay north of in Canada the Vache Sauvage was it, a marfh and hill lying between the Moofe. Joutel (p, 113) calls them. it. Riviere aux Baufs. 16 Joutel mentions two by name, » 5 Joutel (p. 126) and Father Meffrs. Oris and Defloges. Anaftafius (Difcovcry of the Mif- ten Cavelier's Account, 2i Your Lordfhip knows that he has an admirable ^S^.* tadl for that. He employed it fo adroitly in this conjundlure, that before the clofe of July we mu- tually viiited each other ; we often went to their village,^ '7 which was quite near our fort (which a^^'Silf S we will in future call Fort of St. Louis Bay),*^ and Bracamw. one day they offered to guide my brother to a neighboring nation, their ally, only about fifteen leagues off, to fhow him, they faid, curious things. My brother accepted their offer, thanked them for the friendlhip they teflified, and made them fome prefents ; after which fetting out'? to the number of twenty-four, accompanied by a troop of Indians, we arrived at a large village, furrounded by a kind of wall made with potter's clay and fand, fortified with little towers at intervals, where we found faftened to a pofl the arms of Spain engraved on a copper plate, dated 1588. The people welcomed us and fhowed us fome hammers and an anvil, two fmall pieces of iron cannon, a fmall bronze culverine, fpearheads, old fword blades and fome volumes of Spanifh comedies; and leading us thence to a little fifhing hamlet about two leagues off, they fhowed us a fecond pofl X7 Thefe Bracamos arc not men- mentions the Bahamos and Quinets tioned by name by Joutel. He as hoftile nations, elfewherefpeaksof theHebahamos; ,gg^_ Louis Bay was called by and Barcia (Enfayo Cronologico, ^j^^ Spaniards Efpiritu Santo Bay, p. 294) %s that the fort was m the ^^^ ^^^ ^^^^^ j^a Salle was/is territory of the Quelanhubeches and ^ ^^.^^^^ Matagorda Bay. Bahamos. Father Anaftafius (Dif- ^ ^ -' covery of the Miffiffippi, p. 209) 19 In Oilobcr, apparently. D 22 La Salle's Laft Voyage. ^^=^' alfo bearing the arms of Spain and fome old chim- neys.^'^* All this convinced us that the Spaniards had been there before. They alfo gave us to un- derhand by figns that the Miffifipy River v^as very difficult to find, becaufe its mouth could not be per- ceived a league off. They then drew vefTels w^ith coal, and gave us to underfland that many palTed along their coaft. Having taken leave of thefe Indians, to v^^hom we made fome prefents and courtefy for courtefy, we returned to our fort at St. Louis Bay, where we made fome ftay to cultivate more and more the confi- dence and friendfhip of our Bracamos (fo is the Indian nation called that dwells near our fort), in order to leave protedlors to the people whom we would have to leave in the fort while we went overland to feek the Miffifip'y. We obferved during our ftay, that the eafl winds generally prevail by day, and weft winds by night; that the leaft fpeck of cloud forebodes a violent gale, which will laft an hour at moft; that the north winds (which the Spaniards there dread im- menfely) are not fo violent as the weft winds which the fifhing fmacks ftand in winter time on the Banks of Newfoundland ; and laftly that the tide rifes here but very (lightly. We faw quantities of fait, formed naturally in various fpots, which led us to infer that it would be eafy to make fucceflFul fait works. *«> Father Morfi in his very full filent as to any Spanifh occupation manufcript Hiftory of Texas, is of fo early a date. rture of Salle Cavelier's Account, 23 Having then provided for the fecurity of the ^"^^^^ fort by the friendfhip of the neighbouring Indians, by arms and ammunition, and for the fubSilence of the people whom we left there by the provifions and goods which remained, and after my brother had recommended vigilance, patience, and devotion to the King's fervice, we fet out on the firft of No- Nov. i. vember, accompanied by thirty men, carrying only ^H^"^^ our arms, ammunition for game, and fome trifling to difcover th" ' ■% r ^1 T J' mouth of the articles ror the Indians. nvcr by land. Ten or twelve days after, we found a very popu- lous village, where the men and women wore large pearls hanging from the cartilage between the two noftrils. I bought a few in order to fhow your Lordfhip. I have already fhown them to Catillon, lapidary at Paris, who alTured me that they were of the fineft water, in the world, but imperfedt in fhape. We tried to learn from thefe Indians the place whence they drew this precious merchandife, but being able to underftand us only by figns, we could only prefume that they got them from the fea when they went to catch iifh, for they fhowed us large pirogues and nets which apparently were folely for this ufe. We have fince learned that many fmall rivers which pafs through their country empty into St. Louis Bay. Having left this nation, we ran for two months December and in fearch of our river with no hope of finding it, J*"""^- finding only Indians whofe manners kept us in perpetual diftruft ; we did not dare to make any ftay in any place for fear of fome furprife. The 24 La Salle s Lajl Voyage. ^"iSr' continual marching, the rigour of the feafon, and the fears that we had conceived from the referved and diftruftful manners of the Indians, made us undergo hardfhips, that it would be difficult for me to exprefs. February, In the beginning of February we came to a pretty '^^^' large river, which my brother thought might be the Miffifipy, although its courfe Was juft the oppo- lite ; our fentiments were different, we followed its banks for two days, without meeting man or beaft. Some days after, having perceived a village, we deemed proper to fire a volley before entering, in order to alarm the Indians and put them to flight, fo as to take from their cabins what Indian corn we needed; this having been executed, we left them the payment on the fpot, after which we left to continue our fearch. We had fcarcely made a league when we per- ceived two Indians running after us. We firft thought the villagers, charmed with the beauty of the knives, fcifibrs and needles that we had left in payment, had deputed them to bring us back, but we were greatly furprifed when we faw thefe In- dians fall on my brother and almoft flifle him by their embraces in the tranfport of pleafure which they experienced on feeing him again. They were two Shawnees, of three whom my brother loll when he defcended to the mouth of the Miffifipy by the Ilinois river. They told us that their com- it was in rade was fick in the village, to which they begged ^^^'^' us to return, afiTuring us of the humanity and good Cavelier's Account, 25 faith of the people. My brother was fincerely ^'^''^'J^'^^' pleafed to find them again, and in hopes of learning from them what he defired, he made no difficulty of refolving to follow them. They took us firft to their cabin, where we found their comrade. They made us take up our quarters there, while a larger cabin was preparing for us near by. They told us, that having gone out to hunt while in my brother's fervice, they were furrounded and taken by thirty or forty warriors of the village where we were, who carried them there without binding them; that the whole nation, and even their allies, had greatly honoured them and held them for fomething more than men, on account of the power of their guns ; that they wondered to fee them kill a bifon a hundred paces off, and feveral turkeys at a fingle (hot, but that when their ammu- nition failed, thefe people preffed them to make more and ridiculed them becaufe they had not the fecret of making it. They alfo told us that they had married in this village, and that they had had no difficulty in learning the language. They then took us to a large cabin where we were conven- iently lodged. It was from thefe three Indians that we learned that we were only forty leagues from the fea ; that the Indians among whom we were made war on others who had intercourfe with the Spaniards, dif- tant about 1 30 leagues from the fea ; that there was a river — leagues from us, more beautiful than the 3° l. They Miffifipy, and two others fifteen or twenty leagues, BraTo. ^*"' ^'° nees 26 La Salle's Laji Voyage, ^^I'esr' ^" which gold was found in large grains and in duft ; that the Indians ufed it only to make collars and bracelets, but that they valued it lefs than cer- tain red ftones which they put to the fame ufe. itutheshaw- They added : We have been to war again ft the thatfpeak. ^ation that has intercourfe with the Spaniards and took fome prifoners who were neatly dreffed in filk. They told us that the Spaniards furnifhed them their clothes and many other things in exchange for certain ftones which they prized highly. They directed us to the fpot whence they took thefe pre- cious ftones, and as we could pafs by it, without deviating much from the route we had to take back to our village, we eafily perfuaded our troop, as curi- ous as ourfelves, to go there. The prifoners adling as guides, we reached a hill which may be two took 'Vome" to leagues long, where they fhowed us fome holes body' of 'gold! made by the Indians, from which we took^ fome fmiths aflayed fpecimcns of ftoue which we have kept. This hill kfiJ^'s ^order^ Hcs about forty leagues from our village, and is k"wa[°goid o^le' near a little river which empties in a larger one,^ which had only which coming a great diftance and pafling between dRio Bravo, two rangcs of hills empties into the Gulf of Mexico. The Spaniards have feveral villages on the fouthern part of this river, and the Indians who make war on them, crofs over and make captures along the • Apparently j-Qade which thcv freouent with little precaution. the road from , /-r 1 1 1 • r Old to New They aiiured us that there was not a nation for ^"'"" a hundred leagues around but feared the inroads of the Spaniards ; that they dreaded them on account of the frightful ftories told of their fire arms ; that Cavelier's Account, 27 this confideration alone had prevented their leaguing ^^l'^^^' together to undertake to carry a town, lacking neither defire, courage nor means of uniting; that for this purpofe they could bring together one hundred thoufand warriors and ten thoufand horfes, without going fifty leagues from their village; that this army could fubfift, even without fupplies of provifions, by the quantity of bifon, fmall game and fifh found everywhere, by merely dividing into troops often thoufand men, and giving two leagues of land to each troop, and always camping in beau- tiful prairies with which the country abounds ; that even if we wifhed to lay up provifions of Indian corn, peas or beans, it could eafily be done, as the earth produces plentifully without being fowed or cultivated ; and finally, that the country is full of all forts of excellent fruit, which would alfo be a great help. They convinced us that they needed only good leaders and fome regular troops to in- ftrud: them, arms, faddles, bridles and ammunition. On this my brother having afked them on which fide they would attack the Spaniards, they replied that it was beyond that great river* of which they *R'° 2"^°- had fpoken to us, where there were feveral cities and villages, fome open and others fortified merely by palifades, which it would be eafy to force, the more eafily as the Indians had often got the upper hand of them ; that the year before they had killed or taken over two thoufand perfons and forced them to fend religious to exhort them to peace. They told us moreover that the Spaniards had 28 La Salle s Lajl Voyage. Febraary, niofe than 30 gold and filver mines in different parts of the country which they durft not work on account of the proximity q^ nations that they were at war with. That the climate of the country northward and Rio Bravo, caftward of the great river was perfedly beautiful, and fo healthy that men died there only of old age orfmallpox; the land fo, fertile, that unfown, un- tilled, it produced two crops of Indian^corn and three of peafe or beans a year ; that they were told that the other fide of the river was neither fertile nor healthy; That there was near by a nation that made cloth of nettles, wild flax and the bark of trees, and who The Paris Hianufadtured cloth of buffalo wool ; that they dyers were give the fineft colouTS in the world to all their the quality of fabrics ; in fa(5t they gave us earth of all colours, this earth, ^j^j^^j^ ^^g ^.^q]^ jq France ; that there were other thTpa^r"^ nations to the northweft, who had kings and chiefs hans and the and obfcrvcd fomc forms of government, honoring ontotonu. ^^^ refpeding their kings as Europeans do theirs; norida,ap- That there were fome on the Eaft fo fierce, that it had never had any communication with others, and fo cruel that they devoured each other ; That about fifty leagues from the fpot where we were, were two or three mountains on the banks of a river, from which were taken red ftones, as clear as cryftal. They gave us lome of it and fome gold ore which we took to France. After they had related us all this, my brother wifhed to induce them to follow him, to return to Cavelier's Account, 29 their own country ; but they anfwered him, that ^,^85!"^' they were not unnatural enough to abandon their wives and children; that moreover being in the mofl fertile, healthy and peaceful country in the world, they would be devoid of fenfe to leave it and expofe themfelves to be tomahawked by the Illinois or burnt by the Iroquois on their way to another, where the winter was infufferably cold, the fummer without game, and ever in war ; but that if the French built or eftablifhed any colony in the Mif- fifipy, that they would approach it and that they would have the pleafure of rendering them confid- erable fervices. Towards the clofe of January we parted from our honeft Shawnees, who could not accompany us to the Miffifipy for fear of being fufpedled of wilh- ing to follow us, but they induced ten or twelve warriors to lead us. On the loth of March we defcried the river Miffifipy, where we left fome men in a little redoubt of pickets, which we made ourfelves, and retracing our fteps, we pafTed again through the village of our Shawnees, where we were regaled as well as thefe good people could regale us, and continuing our march, we reached Return of Mr St. Louis Bay, on the 30th of the month of March, ^" ^' ^'"'• 1685.^' 21 Joutel and Le Clercq are very tlon La Salle reached the MiffifTippi, brief as to this journey of La Salle, and remarks : " We muft however whofe return the former puts in " fay in behalf of Mr. Tonty, that March, the latter May 31, 1686. "he ftates it only on the report of Joutel denies the ftatement in the " Rev. Mr. Cavelier, La Salle's Pfeudo Tonty, that in this expedi- " brother ; and the faid Cavelier E 30 La Salle's Laji Voyage, ^^illT' Our people received us with all poffible joy, and we experienced much pleafure to find them all in good health ; but our joy was foon marred by the moft diftrefiing accident in the world ; for our fri- gate, eight or ten days after our arrival, ftruck and perifhed with all on board except eight men." The lofs which we had fuftained of ten men, the befl failors we had on board, who were killed with arrows by the Bracamos at the time they made war on us, fuppofing us to be Spaniards, was furely the caufe of the lofs of the vefiel, which perhaps lacked experienced people ; in fine, the chagrin that my brother experienced at the lofs, joined to the hard- ships which we had undergone during our painful march, brought on a malady which nearly took him out of the world, and overwhelmed our little party with defpair. In fa6l, my Lord, after the lofs of the vefTel, which deprived us of our only means of returning to France, we had no refource for our fubfiftence except my brother's good management and firmnefs, and each of us regarded his death as his own, for we beheld ourfelves caft away in a favage country, without afiliftance and cut off by immenfe diftances from every Chriftian nation. " may have reafons for pretending " 1686, he thought that he had found " that they difcovered the MiffifTippi " the river, he fortified a place, " in the fame view that obliged him " left a part of his men and with ** to conceal his brother's death." " nine others continued to explore p. 5. Le Clercq in the Etablijfe- " a moft beautiful country." ment de la Foi (fee Shea's Difc. of the MiJJiJJtppi, p. 195) fays: "At " For the lofs of the Belle, fee "laft, on the 13th of February, Joutel, 140. Cavelier's Account, 31 My brother recovered at laft, and when his ^^^'^'gg'^' health was perfed:ly reftored, he propofed to under- take to reach Canada by land, fo as to come to France to report what he had done. The way is long, painful and dangerous beyond all that can be expreiled to the contrary, fo the leaft hardy durft not undertake it. Thefe my brother left in charge of the fort, with necefTary provifions, commending them to remain ftrongly attached to the king's fervice. He formed a party of thofe who were difpofed to follow him. Father Athanafius, my nephew Moranget, my brother's godfon, two Shawnee Indians, who had followed my brother to France, and I, were of the party. ^^g We ftarted on the 13th of April, 1685,^3 and ap"1 ^V laid our route fo as to pafs by the Illinois, where 0/ Mn ^a^ia we had refolved to reft. It feems to me unnecef- jalVthe^Si- fary to fpeak here of the minutiae of our march, "o's and I will merely fay in general the moft remarkable things that we law and obferved. We were very kindly and affedlionately received by all the nations that we pafTed through. We had plenty every where ; we received prefents and v/ere fupplied with guides and horfes. Among civiS nation, thefe nations, the Senis-'^ feem to us the moft nu-°'^^"'^'^"^- iSFather Anaftafius (notAthana- Provincia de Texas, they were one fins) in Le Clercq details this expe- of the tribes comprifed under the dition. The real date is 1686. general name of Texas, which be- fides the Texas proper and the i4 The Senis or Ccenis are called AfTinais, included the Navedachos, Affinais by the Spanifh writers, the Nagcodoches, the Nacogdoches, According to Father Morfi, in his the Nadocogs, the Ahijitos, the Ca- Mermrias para la Hijioria de la dogdachos and Naflbnis, all fpeaking 32 La Salle s Lajl Voyage, ^TelT' merous and poliflied ; it is governed by a King or Cacique, and the fubordination that we remarked among them made us infer that they had officers ; the houfes are built with order and very prettily, and they have the art of making a cloth of feathers and the hair of animals. We found there filver lamps, old mufkets and Spanish fword blades. Having afked them by figns where they got them, they took a coal and depi(fled a Spaniard, houfes, fteeples, and fhowed us the part of the heaven under which New Mexico would lie. On leaving this village, my brother, our nephew and three foldiers were greatly troubled by certain ftrange fruits of which they had eaten too freely. They all took the fever, which did not leave them till two months afterward. My brother was fo affedled and weakened by it that we did not dare Saii^arrwls at ^^ procccd, but TCtracing our fteps returned after l"" -^"b °^ ^^" ^°^^y ^^y^ ^^ ^^^ ^^^^ ^" ^^* Louis Bay,-5 where we the fame language. Father Anafla- " is in the middle, and each cabin fius reprefents the town of the Senis " holds two families." as extending for fome fixty miles in " hamlets of ten or twelve cabins, as (Oftober, 1686). This ex- " forming cantons each with a dif- ploration is here vaguely defcribed. "ferent name." He probably in- Father Anaftafius details it how- eludes all the above tribes. " Their ever. Mr. Sparks fays, " It may " cabins," fays he, " are fine, forty "be affumed as certain, that he " or fifty feet high, of the fhape of " crofTed the three large rivers, " bee hives. They plant trees in " Colorado, Brazos and Trinity ; " the ground and tie them together *' the firft not many miles above the " by the upper branches, and cover " prefent town of Montezuma ; and " it with dry grafs. The beds are " the fecond as far above the town " ranged around the cabin, three or " of Wafhington . . . The journey " four feet from the ground, the fire " terminated beyond the Naflbnis, Caveliers Account, 33 were received with all poffible joy by our people ^tes?"* and by the Bracamos, who came iirfl to vifit us and brought us a quantity of deer. The attempts which we had made to go to Ca- nada not having fucceeded, we turned our hopes to the aid that the King might fend us from France, and we patiently awaited it till the clofe of the year 1686 ; but at laft weary of being deprived of the fociety of our countrymen, and banifhed as it were to the uttermoft parts of the earth, we regarded this agreeable country only as a tedious refting place and a perpetual prifon, feeling fatiffied that had not the King deemed us loft, he would have had the goodnefs to fend fome one to continue the explora- tion which we had undertaken, or to carry us back to France. We often made vague . conjectures, which ferved only to afflid: us, and at laft when the beginning of i686^^came, my brother propofed to make a fecond attempt. As all minds were full of the defire of again beholding France, his eloquence was required only to perfuade fome of our people to remain in the fort. He portrayed to them the hardships and dangers to be encountered ; the im- poffibility of fubfifting if they all went together on io long a march,' with no refource but hunting. He fucceeded fo well that a part determined to keep the fort, and my brother took only 28^^ of the moft " probably about midway between 26 (1687). " the Trinity and Red River, near " the head waters of the Sabine, 27 Anaftafius fays twenty : Jou- " and fifty or sixty miles northweft tel, feventeen. *' of Nacogdoches." {Life of La Salle, p. 152.) 34 L^ Salle's Laji Voyage. ^^im'^' vigourous, among them Father Athanafius, our nephews Cavelier and Moranget, my brother's god- fon, the pilot of his velTel and mylelf. Second at- ^^ ftaited on the 6th of January''^ (after hearing tempt to reach JVlafs and performing our devotions, and exhorting; Canada by land. ^ . *-*., iirri the people who remained to watch the late keep- ing of the fort, promifing foon to return with help from France), and went to fleep at the village of the Bracamos. The 7th we made 5 or 6 leagues progrefs through canes and reeds. The 8th we made alfo 5 or 6 leagues in more clear and level country. The 9th we arrived at the village of the Kou- aras,^9 where we tarried two days. There we faw a party of 7 or 800 warriors, who were bringing in one hundred and fifty prifoners in triumph; we faved fome who were going to be caft into the water bound hand and foot. The 1 2th we crofled a river on a raft with much rifk. The fear that we had experienced was not yet diffipated when all at once a band of Indians, rufhing defperately on us, revived it in a ftill more intenfe degree ; but thefe good people far from harming us, took us to their cabins where they gave us feveral kinds of meat to eat, and offered us pipes and tobacco; while we were engaged in 28 Father Anaftafius agrees with the MiffiJJippi, p. 211), mentions Cavelier, but Joutel fays the 1 2th. this vifit to the Quaras, who are perhaps the Xaranames of Father ^9 Father Anaftafius {Difc. of Morfi. Cavelier^s Account, 35 fmoking, they began to fing and dance in a very ^/^gg"^' curious manner,and flopped only when we departed. We made lix leagues that day. The 15th we refumed our march, although our good and honeft hunters made every effort to keep us at leafl: till next day. They gave us an efcort of twelve men who accompanied us 4 leagues from the village, and confided us to other hunters who treated us in the fame manner as the firft during the two days that we were in company. The 16th we marched 6 or 7 leagues in beauti- ful prairies, fludded with little groves at intervals, and at evening we encamped on the banks of a little ftream. The 17th in the morning, when about to march, we perceived 150 Indians, all on horfeback, armed with lances tipped with fharpened bone well tied and enchafed, each of whom attacked a bull. No fooner had they perceived us when fome of them left the party and came to welcome us after difmounting. They at firfl regarded us with aflonifhment and after having examined us, they uttered extraordinary exclamations. They then made us mount, the more conveniently to witnefs the clofe of the bull-fight, which feemed to us the mofl diverting thing imaginable, and I am convinced that there is no chafe as curious in Europe. When the combat was ended by the death of feveral animals, the combatants came galloping to us and giving many tokens of fur- prize and joy at meeting us, they led us away 36 La Salle s La/l Voyage. February, ^q ^\^q\^ village. Their frank and cordial manners 1688. o made us follow them without repugnance. They often uttered the word Kmioutmoa, pointing to themfelves; this made us fuppofe that it was the name of the nation. 5° They took us ftraight to the cabin of their great chief or cap^", where they firft wafhed our heads, hands and feet with warm water; after which they prefented us boiled and roaft meat to eat, and an unknown fifh, cooked whole, that was fix feet long, laid in a dilli of its length. It was of a wonderful tafte and we pre- ferred it to meat. They told us by figns that they were abundant and came from a diftance afcending the river. Wc bought at this place thirty horfes, which mounted us all and carried our baggage. They coft us thirty knives, ten hatchets, and fix dozen needles. On the 1 9th we crofTed the river on their boats and our horfes fwam over. We made that day four or five leagues and encamped on a fpot where there was grafs to paflure our horfes, which we tied to good flakes. On the 20th, about two leagues from the fpot where we had pafTed the night, we found quite a well beaten path ; we followed it becaufe it ran in the direction in which we had refolved to go. We faw there four old women and four young girls who pafTed by us weeping and tearing their hair, 3° Father Anaftafius mentions Maligne (Colorado), but Joutel their vifiting the Quanoatinno on the merely fays that they heard of the river which La Salle ftyled the Canohatinno. Cavelier's Account. 37 without having curiofity enough to look at us. ^^"es'y^* This feemed to us an ill omen, but we paid no great attention to it. The next moment we faw a crowd coming towards us ; we firfl: put ourfelves in a ftate of defence, prepared for all hazards; but thefe people, inftead of approaching us, fled, and we purfued our way, and in the evening reached a village the cabins of which were made of canes interlaced and whitened with very fine plafter. The Indians in alarm took flight, but feeing that we encamped near their village without doing them any harm, and that we made them figns to return, they gradually approached us, and finally ventured to enter our tents of grafs and branches of trees. We made them fome little prefents. The next day they took us to their village. It feems to me that they faid they were called Ticapanas.^' They brought us one of their number who fpoke Spanifh, . indiansfpeak- and fome boys whom we had in our party adling '"^ ^^"' as interpreters, we learned many things from him which I will relate to your Lordfhip in the collec- tion of memoirs of my brother. On the 22d we continued our march, and after fording the river, led by five Indians, we entered a valley (five leagues from our fl:arting point) which, though it was mid winter, was full of fruit trees, flowers and a prodigious quantity of birds of various kinds. We encamped there in a favourable pofi- tion to pafs the night, while our Indians came back 31 The Tyakappan of Father Anaftafius. F 38 La Salle s La ft Voyage. '^^il%^. ^^°"^ ^^ ^'^"^ loaded with turkeys. They gave us a long account of this valley, but we could not underftand a word of it. On the 23d they took us to the great village of the Palomas,3- which is furrounded by palifades of cane. Our guides were there quellioned about us. We inferred that they anfwered that we had not the air of being Spaniards ; we do not know what they be- lieved, for they lodged us in a great cabin outfide the village, where they brought us more than thirty handfome maidens of their village. We pointed up to heaven, making figns that it was an execra- ble cuftom, but not underftanding us, they thought that we were talking of the fun, for they inftantly placed their hands on their foreheads and fell flat on the ground looking up to it, and the young men uttered fearful cries, feeing that we fled from the perfecution of thefe wantons. This nation feemed to us more grofs and ill made than the others. On the 24th we left it and wifhed their canoes to crofs a large river, that ran at the foot of their vil- lage, but they advifed us to afcend the river, giving us to underftand by ligns that we would infallibly be killed on the other flde if we crofl!ed the river. We could not learn whether they were beafts or men that we had to fear. They gave us a peri- augua in which we put 20 men and the 8 others took the horfes by land. After five days failing and marching, we faw fome Indians fifhing, and although there were only feven or eight o{ them, 3* The Palonas of Father Anaftafius. Cavelier^s Account. 39 inftead of fleeing they ran up to receive us. We -^^"^g'^' recognized them as a nation called Alakea, among whom we had palled the firfl time we were in the nation of the Senis. They took us to their village where we were received with all poffible affedlion. They kept us among them 6 days, and then having aided us to crofs the river in little boats of buffalo fkins fewed together, they took us to the village of the Akafquyy who knowing us by reputation, were glad to have us pafs by their village. At this place we faw about fixty hermaphrodites, for the moft of them go entirely naked after funfet. We there alfo faw them make cloth with buffalo wool, and a fluff which feemed to us the richeft in the world, fo Angular was it, for it is made of birds' feathers and the hair of animals of every colour. On the 27th we ftarted from the Akafquy to go to the Penoy^ where we arrived on the 29th. On the 30th we went to fleep at the village of Sajforyyi'^ where we were received with the fame friendship as in the others. We remained there one day, and we had the pleafure of feeing an alligator, twelve feet long, captured. The Indians employed a hook made of a buffalo bone tied to the end of a cord, fludded with fmall bones fo that he cannot bite it through, and they ufe no bait but 33 The Alakca are apparently Tory are the Affbnis. At this point the Palaqueflbn of Anaftafius and Cavalier's narrative becomes irre- the Palaquechaunc of Joiuel. Nei- concileablc with Joutel and Father ther Anaflafius nor Joutel mentions Anaftafius. Joutel, p. 213, makes the Penoy, Saflbry, Tipoy and Ana- them reach the Cenis after La Salle's mis, and Morfi throws no light on death, any of thefc tribes, unlefs the Saf- 4-0 L,a Salle s Loft Foyage, January, ^ piece of mcat OH the hook. The Indians who wilhed to amufe themfelves with it, put out its eyes and led it into a prairie, after tying its head to its tail, and tying it around the body with three different cords made of bark of trees and paffed around in flip knots ; and after tormenting it in various ways for full four hours, they turned it belly up and confined it from head to tail by eight flakes, planted fo that the animal could not move in any diredlion. In this condition they flayed him, and then gave him liberty to run, to have the pleafure of tormenting him more. This fport laflied all day, and ended with the death of this frightful beaft, which they killed and gave to their dogs. We faw many fkins of this animal thrown about, which made us infer that there were many in that river. We croffed it however by the help of the Indians, who having led us to the river bank and yelled for half an hour to frighten and drive off thefe animals, fwam over after putting us in a canoe ; our horfes accufliomed to follow us every- where like dogs alfo fwam over. Feb. I. On the evening of the ifl: of February we reached the village of the Tipoy, where the people, otherwife well made, have the top of the head, quite flat, caufed by the mothers putting on their children's heads flat pieces of wood lined with wool, which by a gentle preffure give them this fhape. On the 2d, Candlemas day, we left this village led by a Tipoy Indian, and on the 3d we reached the village of our good friends the Anamis, who had Cavelier's Account, 41 hofpitably received us on our previous excurfion. ^',''^^^7' We had fhe chagrin to find their village half burnt down. They gave us to underftand by figns that a hoftile party w^hich furprized them, had fpread this defolation, and that they would have burnt it all, had they not alarmed them by firing on them with two guns and fome ammunition that we had left them ; that never having feen or heard of fuch arms, the fear they infpired put them to flight. On the 4th we fet out, and on the 8th we arrived at the great village of the Senis. This is a nation that occupies a territory eighteen leagues long. We were received at the entrance of the village and conducted to a large and beautiful cabin, where we were at firft entertained with a right curious fymphony. The chiefs fupped with us, and we repofed more tranquilly there than we had any where elfe. On the 9th, after a crowd of young men had danced a dance of joy in our cabin, we were taken to that of the prince, for whom they have all pof- fible veneration, fubmifiion and refpecft ; for when he went abroad he was borne by eight men on a platform, all the tribe ranged in two lines, both hands on the forehead, uttering a cry of joy or humility ; if he went on foot, very clean mats were fpread wherever he was to pafs. We left this village for fear that our foldiers fhould tamper with the women, and went to en- camp about two leagues off, intending to flay to reft and recruit. The people of the country made 42 La Salle s Laji Voyage. ^'1^68^' ^^ Sufficiently exadl maps of the neighbouring rivers and nations. They told us that they knew the Spaniards, and depi(fled to us their clothing and fhowed us candlefticks, fwords, bucklers, daggers and Spanirti papers. We are convinced that' they are not far off, the more fo as the Senis have a number of fine horfes. On the 1 6th w^e left this great village for a fmaller one of the fame nation, 20 1. off. Thirty well mounted young warriors took us by as well beaten a road as that from Paris to Orleans. At intervals we came to little forts in the moft expofed pofitions, and every where a moft level country extremely well adapted to pafturage.3+ 34 Cavalier's narrative here ends abruptly. His brother's death oc- curred foon after, and we unfortu- nately have not his account of it. With Joutel and Father Anaftafius he reached Canada and proceeded to France. Thofc left in Texas perifhed by the hands of the Caran- cagucs. The cannon of the fort long remained the only monument of La Salle in Texas. Ufed againft Indian, Mexican, Spaniard and American, they were ftill at Goliad, in 1 838.— Yoakum^s Hijl. of Texas, i, 22. II. VOYAGE DOWN THE MISSISSIPPI IN 1699. BY THE REV. MESSRS. MONTIGNY, ST. COSME, DAVION AND THAUMUR DE LA SOURCE. LETTER OF J. F. BUISSON St. COSME, MISSIONARY PRIEST, TO THE BISHOP [OF QUEBEC]. Monfeigneur : 'HE laft that I had the honour to write to you was from MichilH- makinac, whence we fet out on the 14th of September, and went by land to overtake our canoes, which had gone round Pointe aux Irro- quois, and fo on to the Outduaois village to wait for us. This village is of about 300 men. Would to I John Francis Buisson de St. CosME. This clei-gyman, whofe in- rercfting letter follows, was a native of Quebec, and a zealous miffion- ary, who never abandoned the labor on which he entered till he fank under the murderous blows of the favage. He was a Ton of Michael Buiflon or Byffbn, a native of St. G Cofme le Vert in the diocefe of Mans, and of Suzanne de Licerafle, and was born at Pointe Levis, Janu- ary 30, 1667. Devoting himfelf to the fervice of the altar, he was tonfured Auguft 22, 1688, when a little over twenty-one, and ordained priell on Candlemas day, 1690. He was not the only priell in his 46 St, Cof^ne's Voyage God that they refponded to the care and labour which the Reverend Jefuit Fathers beftow on their inftru(5tion, but they feem lefs advanced in Chrift- ianity than the lUinois, who have only recently, they fay, had miffionaries. We left this village, Sept. 15th, eight canoes, four for the River of the Miamis, with the Sieur de Vincennes,"" and we three canoes, and Mr. Tonty,3 who as I have already told you in my laft. family, his brother Michael chofe the fame life, and after fpending fome time at Tamarois before his ordination, returned to Canada and died Cure of Sainte Foy, February 1 8th, 171 2, in the 15th year of his priefthood, preceding by lefs than a month their coufm John Francis Buiflbn (a fon of Gervafe, their father's brother), who died on the 15th March, 171 2, in the 29th year of his priefthood, and being at his death one of the canons of the church of Quebec. The author of this narrative details the commence- ment of their labors on the MifTif- iippi. He was ftationed firft at Tamarois, but removed very foon to the Natchez, among whom he labor- ed earneftjy till he was mafTacred by a party of Sitimaches while defcend- ingthe Mifliflippi in 1707. i This is the earlieft notice of Mr. de Vincennes. This officer, whofe death in the Chickafaw war has rendered his name famous, and whofe memory is preferved by a weftern city, was apparently a ne- phew of Louis Jollier, the explorer of the Mifliflippi. His family name was Biflbt, Vincennes being merely the name of a Seigneurie in Canada acquired by one of his an- ceftors. He was commander among the Miamis in 1698, as this journal fliows,and though he was near lofing his military rank and pofition in 1704, he was too ufeful to be re- moved. In 1730 he led the Mia- mis in D'Artaguette's expedition, and with du Tifne, Lalande and Father Senat fell into^the hands of the Chickafaws and was put to death. Vincennes was not appa- parently founded by him, but may have been a port or rcfidence of his, fo that the town that arofe took his 3 Henri de Tonty, fon of the founder of Tontines, was a Neapo- litan, who with his father having been concerned in a conlpiracy againft the Spanifli power, retired to France. He loft an arm in the fervice, and was recommended to La Salle by the Prince de Conde. He is one of the noble figures in the hirtory of the weft. As Lieu- Down the Mijffijftppi. 47 had come to the refolution to accompany us as far as the Akanfcas. I cannot, Monfeigneur, exprefs our obhgations to him ; he guided us as far as the Akanfcas and gave us much pleafure on the way. He faciUtated our courfe through feveral nations, winning us the friendfhip of Ibme and intimidating thofe who from jealoufy or a defire of plunder had wifhed to oppofe our voyage ; he has not only done the duty of a brave man, but alfo difcharged the fundions of a zealous miflionary. He quieted the minds of our employees in the little vagaries that they might have ; he fupported us by his example in the exercifes of devotion which the voyage per- mitted us to perform, very often approaching the facraments. It would be ufelefs, Monfeigneur, to give you a defcription of Lake Miefitgan,^ on which we em- barked, leaving the fort of the OutouaQuas,5 it is a courfe well enough known. We would have taken the fouth fide, which is much the fhorteft and tenant of La Salle he direfted afFairs epidemical fever in Auguft, 1 704, at in Illinois with conftimmate flcill. Mobile. and going to meet La Salle he made the fecond voyage to the mouth of 4 Michigan. the MiffiiTippi. He was one of the founders of Detroit, and his re- 5 The Ottawas or Short Ears, moval from the command of the ftill cxift. They form a village on poll: to give place to the inexperi- the well fide of the lower peninfula enced de Bourgmont plunged the poll: of Michigan, where Catholic Mi|- in a war. When Iberville reached fionaries ftill attend them. Their the mouth of the MiiTiffippi, and language is Algonquin, and their fettlements were begun, Tonty went dialed approaches very nearly that down, and rendered lignal fervice of the Chippewas. till he lank a viftim to a deadly 48 St, Cofme's Voyage finer than the north, but as it is the path of the Irriquois, and as they not long lince furprlzed fome foldiers and Indians who were going to the Miamis, this obliged us to take the north fide, which is not fo agreeable nor abundant in game, but ealier withal as I think, becaufe you are there {hielded from the north and eafl: winds. On the 1 8th of the month we arrived off the Bay of the Puants,^ forty leagues diftant from Michilimakinac ; we cabined in an ifle of the de- tour, [fo called] becaufe there the Lake begins to turn foutherly. We were detained on this ifland fix days, during which our people employed their time in fetting nets ; they took a great quantity of white iifh, which is a very fine fifh, and a manna, which is fcarcely ever wanting along this lake, where meat is almofl always out of reach. On the 20th we crofTed the Bay of the Puants [which is] about ten leagues broad. You crofs from ifle to ifle. The Bay of the Puants is about twenty or thirty leagues long. On the right, as you enter, you find another fmall bay called [the Bay] of the Noquets. The Bay of the Puants is inhabited by feveral Indian nations, the Noquets,7 Folles Avoines^ [Wild Rice], Foxes, and the Pout- 6 Green Bay. Lcs Puans were the 7 Thefe Indians left their name Winnebagoes. The Jcfuit Relations, to fome iflands in Green Bay, but where the name firft appears, ex- they figure very little in hiftory. plain that the Algonquin word Oue- o mi_ r^ n a • 1 ^•1 „ , n * J D ► ^ The Folles Avomes were the nibegouc, tranilated Puans, meant ,, 1 r 1 • l really men from the fait water. Menomonees, whole language is the They call themfelves Otchagras. 35°f,^°""P' °^ '" '^' Algonqum Down the MiJJtJJippi. 49 ouatami and the Sak.9 The Jefuit Fathers have a miffion at the head of the bay. We much wiflied to pafs by the head of this bay, and it would have been much our fhorteft [route]. You afcend a Httle river (where there are only three leagues of rapids) about fixty leagues long ; you then make a portage which is not long,'° and fall into the river of Wefkonfin, which is very fine, and which you are only two days in defcending to reach the Mi- ciffippi. It is indeed 200 leagues from the point where this river empties into the Miciffippi to that where the river of the Illinois" difcharges into the fame Miciffippi, but the current is fo ftrong that this diftance is foon made ; but the Foxes [who] are on this little river that you afcend on leaving the Bay to reach the Wefkonfin will not fuifer any perfon [to pafs] for fear they will go to places at war with them, and hence they have already plundered feveral Frenchmen, who wifhed to go by that road. This obliged us to take the Chikagu road. On the 29th of September, we arrived at the village of the Poux'- al3out twenty leagues' diftance from the Traverfe of the Bay. There was formerly a very fine village there, but fince the chiefs death 9 The Pottowatamies, Sacs and kias, Kafkalkias, Moingonas, and an Foxes, are ftill lubfifcing tribes of adopted tribe, the Metchigameas, all the fame Algonquin family. of whom are frequently mentioned here. 10 See this portage more fully defcribed in Guignas's letter, /sy?. i^Poux is not the plural of the French word pou, as fome fuppofe, " The Illinois nation was made but a contradlion of Pouteouatami. up of the Peorias, Tamarois, Caho- 50 Sl Cofmes Voyage a part of the Indians have gone and fettled in the Bay, and the reft were ready to go there too when we paiTed. We remained in this village The 30th we fet out, and on the 4th of Odlober we came to another fmall village of Poux on a little river where Rev. Father Marais'^ had win- tered with fome Frenchmen and planted a crofs. We fpent the reft of the day there. On the 5th we fet out, and after being detained two days by high winds, we arrived on the 7th at Melwarik.'"^ This is a river where there is a vil- lage which has been confiderable, and inhabited by the Motardins'5 and Foxes, and even fome Poux. We remained there two days, partly on account of the wind and partly to refrefh our people a little, as duck and teal (hooting was very plenty on the river. On the loth of October, having left Meliwarik early in the morning, we arrived in good feafon at Kipikawi,'^ which is about eight leagues from it. There we parted with Mr. de Vincennes's party, who continued their courfe towards the Miamis. Some Indians had led us to fuppofe that we might 1 3 Apparently the Rev. Jofeph J. 1 5 If they were ever a diftindt na- Mareft, of the Society of Jefus, Jong tion, thefe Mafcoiitcns have now a miflionary in the weft, certainly merged in the Sacs, Foxes and Kika- from 1689 to 1711, though it may poos. be his brother Gabriel, who was on ^t 1 c 1 \- rr^- ■ . T,i. . -rr ■ ,,^ 101 do not nnd thisname of Kipi- the Illmois million m 1700. , . ir- 1 n ■ ,,- 1 rJ\ kawi or Kipikuikwi eilewhere. The 14 Milwaukee, written on fome river is evidently that emptying into early maps Melloki and Melleoki. the Lake at Racine, and this route For Latinizing this laft form has ad- was up the Root River and then by a vantages. portage acrofs to the Fox, or Pifh- Down the Mijftjffippi . 51 afcend by this river, and that after making a portage of about nine leagues, we could defcend by another river called Piftrui,'^ which empties into the River of the Illinois about twenty-five or thirty leagues from Chikagu.'^ We avoided this river, which is about twenty leagues in length up to the portage. It palTes through quite pleafant prairies, but as there was no water in it, we judged fagely too that there would not be in the Beflikwi,'^ and that in- ftead of fliortening our way, we fhould have had to make nearly forty leagues of the way as a port- age. This obliged us to take the route of Chicagu, taka (Beftikwi) river, which they defcended to the Illinois. The names in this memoir have fufFered greatly in tranfcription, and the copyill feems to have been efpecially bothered by the y, which he re- places by vv or w, and fometimes by r and k. As a vowel it corre- fponds to the Englifh oo (French ou) as a confonant to w. lyjoutclon his map gives the name of Petcfcouy to this river, and Charlevoix {^HiJ}. de la NouveUe France, vol. iii, p. 380) mentions it as the Pifticoui ; it is now called the Fox or Pilhtaka or Pillakee, and a lake on its courfe is alfo Hill called Piftakee. 18 The party made their way to Chicago, where they found a Jefuit Miami miffion. The milTion of St. Jofeph's has been ufually fuppofcd to have been on the St. Jofeph's river from the firft. Chicago was from a \(try early date a place of importance, as one of the routes to the MifTiffippi. Perrot is faid to have vifited it in 1671, but this is only an inference of Charlevoix, not borne out by the manufcript of Perrot, to which he refers, Marquette and Joliet paflTed by it on their return from their exploration of theMiflif- fippi. Marquette pafTed a winter there fubfequently, Allouez took the fame route in 1677. La Salle on his fecond journey to the Illinois went by the way of Chicago, Joutel and Cavelier, the author of the preceding Journal, were at Chicago in 1687-8, and La Hontan the next year came back from the Miffiffippi by the fame route. After the prefent author Charlevoix de- fcribes the line of travel by Chicago, and the portage is called Portage aux Chcnes. On De 1' Iflc's map ofLouifiana (circa 1717) the Del- plaines Is called the Chicago. 52 St. Cofmes Voyage which is about twenty-five leagues from it. We remained five days at Kipikufkwi. We left it on the 17th, and afi:er having been detained by wind the i8th and 19th, we cabined on the 20th five leagues from the Chicaqw. We {hould have reached it early on the 21 ft, but the wind, which fuddenly fprung up from the lake, obliged us to land half a league from Apkavv.'^ We had confiderable difficulty in getting afhore and faving our canoes. We had to throw everything into the water. This is a thing which you mufi: take good care of along the lakes, and efpecially on [Lake] Miffigan, (the fhores of which are very flat) to land foon when the water fwells from the lake, for the breakers get fo large in a fhort time that the canoes are in rifk of going to pieces and lofing all on board ; feveral travellers have already been wrecked there. We went by land, Mr. de Montigny,-° Davion and myfelf, to the houfe of 1 9 This name is inexplicable, by MclTrs Davion and St. Cofme. They certainly ftoppcd at Chicago, The outfit of this million is faid to and the name may have been a have colt io,8::o livres. They tranfcribcr's blunder for cctte place, founded a miflion at Tamarois, of that place. which the Jefuits complained, and after confiderable altercation Mr. 10 Rev. Francis JoLLiET DE MoN- de Montigny in 1700 retired, and TiGNY, the leader of the party going to France rcfufed to return to whofc journey is here defcribed, America. He was then fent to was born at Paris, but ordained at China where he labored with great Quebec, March 8, 1693. After zeal, and becoming Secretary to ioeingCure of St. Ange Gardienand Cardinal de Tourhon fhared his Diredor of the Urfulincs, he fet out exile and attended him on his death to found a miffion of the Seminary bed in prifon at Macao. Mr. de of Quebec on the MifTiffippi. He Montigny then returned to Paris bore the appointment of Vicar u' d there became Direftor of the General of the Bifliop of Quebec, Foreign Miffions, and died in 1725 ^nd was attended, as we here fee, at the age of 64, Down the Mijftjfftppi. 53 the Reverend Jefuit Fathers, our people ftaying with the baggage. We found there Rev. Father Pinet^' and Rev. Father Buinateau,-- who had recently come in from the Illinois and were flightly lick. I cannot explain to you, Monfeigneur, with what cordiality and. marks of efteem thefe reverend Jefuit Fathers received and carefTed us during the time that we had the confolation of ftaying with them. Their houfe is built on the banks of the fmall lake, having the lake on one fide and a fine large prairie on the other. The Indian village is of over 150 cabins, and one league on the river there is another village almoft as large. They are both of the Miamis. Rev. Father Pinet makes it his ordinary relidence except in winter, when the Indians all go hunting, and which he goes and fpends at the Illinois. We faw no Indians there, they had already ftarted for their hunt. If we may judge of the future by the little while that Father Pinet has been on this million, we may fay that God blelTes the labors and zeal of this holy miffion- ary. There will be a great number of good and fervent Chriftians there. It is true that little fruit is produced there in thofe who have grown up and hardened in debauchery, but the children are bap- tized and even the medicine men, moll oppofed to 2'i Father Francis Pinet was the a miffionary in Maine in 1693, and founder of the Tamaroismiffion and died of a fever brought on by his died there about 1704. labors foon after this vifit of St. Cofme, as Father Gravier in 1700 2-Father Julian Binneteau was does not refer to him, H 54 *5'/. Cofifies Voyage Chriflianity, allow their children to be baptized. They arc even very glad to have them inftruded. Many girls already grou^n up and many young boys are being inftrudted, fo that it may be hoped that when the old ftock dies off there will be a new Chriftian people. On the 24th of Ocflober, the wind having fallen, we made our canoes come with all our bag- gage, and perceiving that the waters were extremely low we made a cache on the fliore and took only what was abfolutely necelTary for our voyage, re- ferving till fpring to fend for the reft, and we left in charge of it Brother x\lexander, who confented to remain there with Father Pinet's man, and we ftarted from Chicaqw on the 29th and put up for the night about two leagues off, in the little river which is then loft in the prairies. The next day we began the portage, which is about three leagues long when the water is low, and only a quarter of a league in the fpring, for you embark on a little lake that empties into a branch of the river of the Illinois,-^ and when the waters are low you have to make a portage to that branch. We made half our portage that day, and we fhould have made fome progrefs further, when we perceived that a little boy whom we had received from Mr. de Muys,-+ =3 Mud Lake, which empties into French reports of the wefl (O'Cal- thc Dcfplaines, anci called by the . laghan's New York Col. Doc, ix ), voyagcurs Le petit Lac. Sec note, and is apparently the one appointed p. 51. Governor of Louifiana in 1707 ; a 2^4 M. DE MuYs. An officer of Lieutenant of the fame name was at this name figures feveral times in the F^''' ^^^ ^^^'^ i" Odober, 1753. Down the MijfiJJtppi. ^^ having flarted on alone, although he had been told to wait, had got loft without any one paying atten- tion to it, all hands being engaged. We were obliged to ftop and look for him. All fet out, we fired feveral guns, but could not find him. It was a very unfiDrtunate milhap, we were prefled by the feafon and the waters being very low, we law well that being obliged to carry our efFedils and our canoe it would take us a great while to reach the Illinois. This made us part company, Mr. de Montigny, de Tonty and Davion,^5 continued the portage next day, and I with four other men returned to look for this little boy, and on my way back I met Fathers Pinet and Buinateau who were going with two Frenchmen and one Indian to the Illinois. We looked for him again all that day without be- ing able to find him. As next day was the feaft of All Saints this obliged me to go and pafs the night at Chikagou with our people, who having heard mafs and performed their devotions early, we fpent all that day too in looking for that little boy without being able to get the leaft trace. It was very difficult to find him in the tall grafs, for the whole country is prairies ; you meet only fome clumps of woods. As the grafs was high we durft ^5 Rev. Anthony Davion began incorrigible tribe drove him out. a miffion among the Tonicas, but He retired to New Orleans about labored almoft in vain. On the 1722, and died in France about murder of Rev. Mr. Foucault he 1727. He is faid to have been a retired to Mobile, but returned to native of Normandy and to have his port in 1704, and remained for arrived at Quebec in 1690. over twelve years, till in faft the 56 St» Cofmes Voyage not fet fire to it for fear of burning him. Mr. de Montigny had told me not to ftay over a day, be- caufe the cold was becoming fevere ; this obliged me to ftart after giving Brother Alexander direc- tions to look for him and to take fome of the French who were at Chicag8. I fet out the fecond of November in the after- noon, made the portage, and llept at the river of the Illinois :^^ we went down the river to an illand. During the night we were furprized to fee an inch of fnow and the next day the river frozen in feveral places, yet we had to break the ice and drag the canoe, becaufe there was no water ; this forced us to leave our canoe and go in fearch of Mr. de Montigny, whom we overtook next day, the 5th of the month, at Stag Ifland (Ille aux Cerfs). They had already made two leagues portage, and there were ftill four to make to Monjolly, which we made in three days and arrived on the 8th of the rnonth. From Ifle a la Cache to Monjolly-^ is the 26 This is probably a miftake of France, which took its name from the copyift. the following circumitance : " Madcmoifcllc Joly, a French ay This is the "well known mound "aftrcfs of the latter part of the " at Joliet, now called Mount Joliet, " eighteenth century, having paflcd " once fuppofed to be a work of art, " fome agreeable hours on a hill near " but now generally conceded to be " Falaifc, called La Roche-Saint- ** a natural formation. The mate- " Ouentin, left direftions in her will " rials for paving ufcd in Chicago "that her remains 'fliould be carried "are obtained from that fource." "to this fohtary hill, which was fo Letter of William Barry, EJq. " dear to her heart.' Her wiflies Mount Joliet may be a miftake for " were obeyed, and the hill has ever Monjolly, and Monjolly not a cor- " fince been called Mont-Joly." ruption. There is a Mont Joly in An Indian legend as to this mound is given a few lines lower down. Down the Mijftjfippi. S7 fpace of feven leagues. You muft always make a portage, there being no water in the river except in the fpring. All along this river is very agreeable. It is prairies fkirted by hills and very fine woods, where there are numbers of deer as well as on the river. There is abundance of game of all kinds, fo that one of our men ftrolling around after making the portage, killed enough to give us a plentiful fupper and breakfaft next morning. Monjolly is a mound of earth in the prairie, on the right as you go down, flightly elevated, about thirty feet. The Indians fay that at the time of a great deluge one of their anceftors efcaped, and that this little mountain is his canoe which he turned over there. On leaving Monjolly we made about two leagues to another little portage of about a quarter of a league. As one of our men, named Charbonneau, had killed feveral turkeys and geefe in the morning and a deer, we did well to give fomewhatof a treat to our people and let them reft for a day. On the loth we made the little portage and found half a league of water, and then two men towed the canoe for a league ; the reft marched on land, each with his pack, and we embarked for the fpace of a league and a half and ftopped for the night at a little portage, five or fix arpens-^ off". On the I ith, after making the little portage, we came to the river Tealike,^^ which is the real river ^•S The arpent is about 200 feet. Canadians, as Charlevoix tells us ^9 The Kankakee, called by die (vol- "i, P- 37°), corrupted to Kia- Indians Theakiki, a name which the ^^^^> whence Kankakee. 58 Sf. Co/me' s Voyage of the Illinois ; that which we had defcended be- ing only a branch. We put all our affairs in the canoe, which two men towed, while Mr. de Tonty and we with the reft of our men marched on land, always through beautiful prairies. We arrived at the village of the Peanzichias Miamis who formerly dwelt on the of the Miffiffippi and who fome years fince came and fettled in this place. There was no one in the village, all having gone out hunting. We went that day to halt near Maffacre, which is a little river that empties into the river of the Illinois. -9 It was from this day that we began to have buffalo, and the next day two of our men killed four, but as thefe animals are lean at this feafon, they contented themfelves with taking the tongueSc Thefe cattle feem to me larger than ours ; they have a hump on the back, the legs are very {hort, the head very large and fo covered with long hair, that it is faid a ball cannot penetrate it. We afterwards faw them almoft every day during our voyage to the Akanfeas. After having had to carry our baggage for three days, and put it all together in the canoe, the river being low and full of rocks, we arrived on the 15th of November at the place called the Old Fort. It is a rock which is on the bank of the river about a hundred feet high, where Mr. de la Salle built a 29 The Iroquois River, Charlevoix there furprifed and cut to pieces by tells us {Hiji. dela Nouvelle France, the Illinois, but the prcfent Iroquois vol, in, p. 380), was fo called be- is a branch of the Kankakee above caufe an Iroquois war party was the Defplaines. Down the Mijftjfippi. 59 fort which he abandoned.3° The Indians having gone to ftay about twenty-five leagues lower down, we flept a league below, where we found two In- dian cabins. We were confoled to fee one per- fe(Slly good Chriftian woman. From Chicagvv to the Fort they reckon thirty leagues. Here navigation begins, which continues uninterrupted to the Fort of the Permavevvi,^' where the Indians are now. We arrived there on the 19th of November. We found R. Father Pinet there, who not being loaded when they ftarted from Chicagou had arrived here fix or feven days before us. We alfo faw there Rev. Father Marays, a Jefuit. All the reverend Fathers gave us all pof- fible welcome. Their only regret was to fee us ftart fo foon, on account of the frofts, we there took a Frenchman who had fpent three years at the Akanfeas and who knows the language a little. This Illinois mifTion feems to me the fined that Jefuit Fathers have up here, for without counting all the children who are baptized, there are many grown perfons who have abandoned all their fuper- ftitions and live as perfed:ly good Chriftians, fre- que'nting the facraments, and are married in the church. We had not the confolation of feeing all thefe good Chriftians, for they were all difperfed going down the bank of the river to hunt. We faw there only fome Indian women married to Frenchmen, who edified us by their modefiiy and 30 Rockfort. of the Illinois nation, who have left their name to a lake, 3 1 The Peorias, one of the branches 6o St. Cofme's Voyage by their affiduity in going feveral times a day to the chapel to pray. We fang High Mafs there with deacon and fubdeacon, on the day of the Prefentation of the Blefled Virgin, and after com- mending our voyage to her, and placing ourfelves under her protection, we ftarted from the Illinois. On the 22d of November we had to break the ice for two or three arpens to get out of the lake of . We were four canoes, Mr. de Tonty's, our two, and another [of five?] young voyageurs who chofe to accompany us, partly on account of Mr. de Tonty, who is generally loved by all the voyageurs, partly alfo to fee the country. Rev. Fathers Buina- teau and Pinet alfo joined us for a part of the way, wifhing to go and fpend the whole winter with their Indians. The firft day after our departure we found the cabin of Rouenfas,^^ the moft confiderable of the Illinois chiefs. He is a very good Chriftan and received us politely, not like a barbarian, but like a well bred Frenchman ; he took us to his cabin and forced us to fpend the night there. He made us a prefent of three deer, one of which he gave to the Father, the other to Mr. de Tonty, and the third to us. We there learned that the Charanon, the Chekaihas, and Karkinonpols had furprized the 32 The name of this chief, Roinfac, Cha8anon, or Shawnee ; the Karki- was applied fubfequently to the town nonpols are uncertain ; the Chekaihas of Kafkafkia. are the Chickafaws ; the Kavvkias are the Kabkias or Cahokias, an 33 The copyift, as we remarked Illinois tribe, before, has r for the Greek B in Down the MiJpJ/tppi, 6i Kawklas, an Illinois nation that is about five or fix leagues below the mouth of the River of the Illi- nois along the Miciffipi. They had killed ten men, taken nearly loo Haves, as well women as children. As this Rouenfas has much talent, we thought ourfelves obliged to make him fome pre- fent to induce him to favour our pafTage through the Illinois nations, not To much for this firft voyage as for the others, when we might be in lefs force, for all thefe peoples up here are much inclined and ealily conceive jealoufy when one goes to other nations. We therefore gave him a belt to (how him that we contracted an alliance with him, and with all his nation, and that he being a Chriftian ihould have no greater pleafure than to fee other nations partake of the happinefs that he enjoyed, and that to this end he was bound to facilitate as much as he could the defign of the miffionaries who were going to initrucft them. We then made him a little prefent of powder. On the 23d in the morning, after faying our maiTes, where Rouenfas and his family received at Mr. de Montigny's mals, we fet out and came to a little Indian village where we landed. The chief, by name the Bear, told us that it was not apropos for us to go to the Miciffipi, but Mr. de Tonty gained or intimidated him by thefe words, telling him that we were envoys from the Mafter of Life, who is the king, and of the great mafter of the river, to inftrud: thofe Indians where we were I 62 Sf. Coffnes Voyage going, and that he was fpared by the Governor to accompany us, fo that to give us any trouble would be to attack the Governor in perfon. As he made no reply to thefe words we embarked, and on the 24th we went to pafs the night at another vil- lage of feveral cabins, where we found the one called Tivet, once a famous chief in his nation, but of late abandoned by almoft all his people. He made many complaints to Mr. de Tonty, who re- proached him with the fa6l that it was his mifcon- du(5t that drew on him the hatred of his people, and that he had long promifed to give up his jug- glery (for he is a famous medicine man), but that he had done nothing of the kind. He was after- wards there at prayers, and the Indian promifed to be inftrudled. The next day, March 25th, we parted with Rev. Father Pinet, who remains in this village to pafs the winter, for there was a good number of Praying Indians, and on the 26 we found a village, the chief of which was hunting with all his young men. Some old men came to meet us, weeping for the death of their people defeated by the Chabanons. They told us that we did not do well to go through che Carrechias^^^ with the Chauanons, to whom, they faid, Mr. de Tonty had given arms and had attacked them. Mr. de Tonty replied that it was over three years iince he left the Illinois, and that he could not have i^^n the Chauanons to give them arms, but as the Indians continued conftantly fay- 34The copyift here evidently blundered at Caiikias. Down the Miffijftppi. 63 ing many unreafonable things, we faw well that they were not well dKpofed and that we fhould ftart as foon as poffible, before the youth, who were to arrive next morning, came in. We accordingly left abruptly, Mr. de Tonty telling them that he did not fear men. They told us that they bewailed our youth, who would be killed. Mr. de Tonty replied that they had feen him meet the Iroquois, and that they knew that he could kill men. It muft be avowed that the Indians have a very great efteem for him ; it is enough for him to be in a party to prevent their offering any infult. We embarked at once and went to pafs the night five or fix leagues from this village. The next day we were detained a part of the day by reafon of a great quantity of ice that was floating in the river. On the 28th we landed at a village where there were about twenty cabins. We there faw the chief's wife. This woman is very influential in the nation on account of her talent and liberality, and becaufe having many fons and fons-in-law, all hunters, fhe often gives banquets, which is a means of foon acquiring influence among thefe Indians, and all their nations. We faid mafs in the village in the cabin of a foldier named La Violette, married to a fquaw, whofe child Mr. de Montigny baptized. Mr. de Tonty related to this chieftainefs what they had faid to us in the laft village. She dilapproved it all and told him that all the nation felt great joy to fee him and us too. 64- St, Cofmes Voyage but what grieved her was not to be fure of feeing him again and poiTeffing him longer. We left this village and made about eight leagues. From the 29th of November to the 3d of Decem- ber we were detained at the fame place by the ice, by which the river was entirely blocked up. During all this time we had provifions in plenty, for one can not fall on this river, fo abundant is it in game of all kinds, fwans, geefe, ducks. It Is fkirted by very fine woods, which are not very large, fo that you fometlmes meet fine prairies, where there are numbers of deer. Charbonneau killed feveral while we were detained. Others alfo killed fome. The navigation of this river is not very good when the water is low. We were fometlmes obliged to march with a part of our people while the others condudled the canoes, not without difficulty, being fometlmes obliged to get into the water which was already very cold. During our delay, Rev. Father Bulneteau, whom we had left at the village of the chief's wife, came to fee us and after fpending a day with us returned to the village for the Feafl of St. Francis Xavier. On that day a high wind having broken a part of the ice we made about a league. The next day, having taken wooden canoes at five Indian cabins, we broke about three or four arpens of ice that blocked up the river, and was about four inches thick and bore men on it. Then we had navigation free to the Miciffipi, where we arrived Down the Mijftjftppi, 65 on the 5th of December, after having made about eight leagues from the Fort of Peniteni.35 Miciffippi is a large and beautiful river, that comes from the north. It divides into feveral channels at the part where the river of the Illinois empties, which forms very beautiful iflands. It makes feveral bends but feems to me to keep always the fame direction to the fouth as far as the Akanfeas. It is lined by very fine forefts. The bank on both fides appears about thirty feet high, which does not prevent its inundating far into the woods in the fpring when the waters are high, except fome hills or very elevated fpots occafionally met with. You find all along great quantities of buffalo, bear, deer. You alfo fee a very great number of birds. We always had fo great a quantity of meat along this river as far as the Acanfeas, that we pafiTed feveral herds of buffalo without caring to fire at them. On the 6th of December we embarked on the MicilTippi. After making about fix leagues we found the great river of the MifTouris, which comes from the wefl, and which is fo muddy that it fpoils the waters of the MicifTipi, which down to this river are very clear. It is faid that there are up this mountain (river?) a great number of Indians. Three or four leagues [further] we found on the left a rock having fome figures painted on it, for which, it is faid, the Indians have fome veneration. 35 Pometeouy, or Peoria it would from the Miffiffippi in 1 7 2 1 . Charle- feem, but that was feventy leagues voix,\\\, 391. 66 St. Cofmes Voyage They are now almoft efFaced.3^ We went that day to Kavvechias,37 who were ftill mourning over the blow inflidled on them by the Chikakas and Chouanons ; they all began to weep on our arrival. They did not feem to us fo hoftile or ill difpofed as fome Illinois Indians had told us of thefe poor people, who excited more our compaffion than our fear. The next day about noon we reached the Tama- rois.3^ The Indians had been early notified of our coming by another who had ftarted from the Akanfeas39 to carry them the news. As they had given trouble to fome of Mr. de Tonty's men a year before, they were afraid, and all the women and children fled from the village ; but we did not go to it, as we wifhed to prepare for the feaft of the Conception, we cabined on the other fide of the river on the right. Mr. de Tonty went to the village and having reafTured them a little, he brought us the chief who begged us to go and fee him in his village. We promifed to do fo and next day, Feaft of the Conception, after faying our MafTes we went with Mr. de Tonty and feven of our men well armed. They came to receive us and took us to the chief's cabin. All the women and children were there, and we were no fooner there than the young folks and women broke in a part to be able to fee us. They had never feen 36 This is the Piefa, or painted 38 The Tamarois, or Maroas, were rock, firft mentioned by Marquette, an Illinois tribe. 37 Cahokias. 39 This name is evidently wrong. Down the MiJJijftppi. 67 any Black Gown except for a few days the Rev. Father Gravier,''^° who had paid them a vifit. They gave us a meal, and we made them a little prefent as we had done to the Carrechias. We told them that it was to (how them that we had a well made heart, and that we wifhed to contrad: an alliance with them, fo that they (liould kindly re- ceive our people who often pafTed there, and that they fhould give them food. They received it with many thanks and then we returned. The Tamarois were cabined on an ifland lower down than their village, perhaps to get wood more eafily, from which their village, which is on the edge of a prairie, is fomewhat diftant ; perhaps too for fear of their enemies. We could not well fee whether they were very numerous. They feemed to us quite fo, although the greater part of their people were hunting. There was wherewith to form a fine miffion by bringing here the Kavvchias, who are quite near, and the Michiagamias, who are a little lower down on the MiiTiffippi, and faid to be quite numerous.'^' • ^We did not fee them as they had gone inland to hunt. The three villages fpeak Illinois. We left Tamarois on the 8th of December, in f 40 The author of a fubfequenC fore 1721 (Charlevoix, vol. ni, p. Journal in this volume. 398). Their language was how- ever different, as we fee by Fa- 41 The Metchigamias were lower ther Marquette's Journal where down the Miffiffippi in Marquette's he defcribes the critical moment time, but joined the Illinois and be • when the tribe poured out to attack came incorporated with them be- him, 68 St. Cofmes Voyage the afternoon. On the loth we faw a hill which is about three arpents diftance from the Miciffipi, on the right hand going down. After being de- tained a part of the nth by the rain, we arrived early on the 12th at Cape St. Antoine, where we remained that day and all the next to get pitch, which we needed. There are many pines from Cape St. Antoine to a river lower down, and it is the only fpot where I faw any from Chigagou to the Acanfeas. Cape St. Antoine is a rock on the left as you go down Some arpents below there is another rock on the right which advances into the river, and forms an ifland, or rather a rock about 200 feet high, which making the river turn back very abruptly and narrowing the channel forms a kind of whirlpool there, where it is faid a canoe is ingulfed at the high waters. Fourteen Miamis were once loft there, which has rendered the fpot fearful among the Indians, fo that they are accuftomed to make fome facrifices to this rock when they pafs. We faw no figure there as we had been told.*- You afcend this ifland and rock by a hill with confiderable difficulty. On it we planted a beautiful crofs, finging the Vexilla Regisy and our people fired three volleys of mufketry. God grant that the Crofs which has never been known in thefe regions, may triumph there and our Lord pour forth abundantly on them the merits of his holy pafilon, that all the Indians may know 42 See Marquette's account in his Journal, fedlion 7. Dow7t the Mijftjfippi. 69 and ferve him. At Cape St. Antoine you begin to find canes. There is alfo a kind of large tree hke the whitewood, which exudes a gum of very good odor ; you find too all along the Miciflipi a quantity of fruit trees unknown in Canada, the fruit of which is excellent. We found fometimes fruit flill on the trees. I had forgotten to note here that [fince] we were on the MicifTipi we did not perceive that we were in winter, and the more we defcended the greater heat we found, yet the nights are cool. We left Cape St. Antoine on the 14th of De- cember, and on the 15th we halted for the night one league below the Wabache,'^^ a large and beau- tiful river which is on the left of the MicifTipi and comes from towards the north, and is they fay five hundred leagues long, and rifes near the Sonontu- ans.'^'^ They go by this river to the Chauanons, who trade with the Englidi. On the 1 6th we ftarted from Wabache, and nothing fpecial befel us, nor did we find any thin