Science of Modern Horsemanship. A TRUE SYSTEM ™f,:ii^m,®a T»AiHfiw©i f INCLUDING Trick Training, how to Raise, Feed, Drive, and nnake Valu- able Trotting or ^A/^ork Horses, a Treatise on Shoeing, Hints to Equestriennes, Jockey Tricks, Ac, <&c. TOGKTHEn WITH PRACTICAL RECIPES IN THE TREATMENT OF DISEASES OF HORSES. • FOUSTE EDITION— CAEEFULLY REVISED. PEORIA, ILL.: GEO. M. STANCH FIELD, PUBLISHER. m T¥f|f\ri^'C' We want an agent in your vicinity for the sale of JL^ XJ' JL JCdm this book, and would be pleased to have you act as such, the whole or a part of your time. These books have had an unpre- cedented sale the past five years, are ably noticed by the newspapers and sell readily to nearly every horse owner. As we employ no traveling agents, we can offer extraordinary inducements to local agents, and if you will take hold of the matter we will furnish you with books at the fol- lowing rates: 100 Copies, $25 CO 50 " 15.00 25 " 8.00 12 " 5.00 The retail price of the book is 7 5 cents per copy, but many agents in- form us that they often get $1.00, but providing you only get 75 cents, you will readily see that you clear the handsome sum of $50. OO on every one hundred copies you sell. Trusting you will think favorably of this, (and go right to work among your friends), we hope to hear from you again. Address. Q. M. STANCHFIELB, Publisher, PEORIA. ILLINOIS. THE SCIENCE OF MODERN HORSEMANSHIP. A TRUE SYSTEM HORSE TRAINING, INCLUDING Trick Training-, how to Raise, Feed, Drive, and make Valuable Trotting or Work Horses, a Treatise on Shoeing, Hints to Equestriennes, Jockey Tricks, &c., &;c. TOGETHEK WITH THE EXPERIENCES OF A LIFETIME. Treatment of Diseases of Horses, Contained in Plain, Practical Recipes, BY AN EMINENT HORSE TAMER AND VETERINARY SURGEON. FOURTH EDITION-CAREFULLY RB^^ PUBLISHED BY G. M. STANCHFIELD 1874. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1874, by GEO. M. STANCHFIELD, j^^ 4,... , in the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. PREFACE. In presenting the fourth edition of this popular work for public favor, ^we cannot forego the opportunity of acknowledging our obligations to the owners of horses for the very liberal and flattering testimonials of their approbation. Encouraged by this favorable reception, and the rapid sale of the first three editions, with the demand still increasing, we feel under obligations to issue this, the fourth edition, in oi*der to supply the demand. About twenty pages of new and valuable disclosures on the care and management of this noble animal, together with numerous rare recipes for the curing of diseases, have been added, making it now the most reli- able book extant. The subject of Horsemanship is so closely allied and identified with all man's interest, that everything that can be said to promote a reform in that particular cannot but commend itself to every one interested in that noble animal ; and who is there that is not? For the most common transactions of every-day life cannot be consummated without calling to his aid. This book is not presented to the public as an unexceptionable treatise on the Horse. It is merely a plain, practical exposition of the best system of Horsemanship that to-day is extant ; one that has met with the approbation and commendation of the best horsemen of the age, and one that has received a patronage vouchsafed to no other system. It is merely to gratify a desire expressed by hundreds who have young colts and contrary horses, and have no easy method of subjugating them; and yet every move with the horse is so plain and intelligible that any one can take hold of and manage the wildest colt or the most vicious horse. While we beg frona the scrutinizing public a charitable criticism for any shortcoming that may be discovered, we feel great confidence that the work will meet with a hearty approval from horsemen generally, and prove a valuable auxiliary in bringing about that much-needed reform in the proper management and control of the most noble of the brute creation. THE PUBLISHER. i THE HORSE. His Origin, History, and Habits. /JvHE reduction of the horse to a domesticated state is the -L greatest acquisition from the animal world ever made by the art and industry of man. The history of this noble quadruped, as regards his origin, or natural locality, and the period of his first subjugation, is involved in obscurity. We learn from the Sacred Writings that he is of Eastern origin ; and they render the inference very probable, that the Egyp- tians were the first who reduced him to servitude. The earliest notice of the horse occurs six hundred and fifty years after the Deluge, when the Egyptians " brought their cattle to Joseph, who gave them bread in exchange for horses and for their flocks," &c. Very soon after, we read, the venerable patriarch, Jacob, when dying in Egypt, address- ing his sons, said : " Dan shall be a serpent by the way, an adder in the path, that biteth the horse's heels, so that his rider shall fall backward ;" and it is remarkable that this early allusion to the horse refers to him as being ridden, and not as drawing a chariot. When the body of Jacob was removed by his son Joseph from Egypt to Canaan, for burial, we are told that, " there went up with him both chariots and horsemen." It appears, then, from this notice, as well as from the employ- ment of numerous chariots by Pharoah in pursuit of the Isra- elites, and from the testimony of the earliest profane writers, that the Egyptians first reduced the horse to obedience, it is to their country, or, at least to those parts of Africa which were in close connection with it, that we may reasonably look for his primitive habitat. The long-admitted superiority of the horses of Arabia is no evidence that they were originally placed in that arid country ; and there is much reason to con- 6 HISTOR Y OF THE HORSE. elude that it was not until a comparatively late period that the Arabs used horses. At the time when Solomon was receiving various treasures from Arabia, it was from Egypt only that he obtained his immense number of horses. Herodotus expressly states that Xerxes obtained a portion of his cavalry from Ethi- opia, and that he was joined by a body of native Indians, some on horseback and otliers in war-chariots. The primitive habits, contour, and color of the horse, in a purely natural condition, cannot be said to be known with certainty ; for it is highly probable that he has long ceased to exist in such a state. As the wild horses which are now found in various parts of the world appear to have sprung from a do- mesticated stock, they afford no clue to the elucidation of the points in question. The numerous herds of wild horses ex- isting on the plains of Tartary do not appear to have been indigenous to that country, and the still greater numbers w^hich inhabit South America are very clearly traced to the horses which the Spaniards introduced into that part of our continent from Europe ; and old writers tell us that, when the American Indians first saw a man on horseback, they thought the man and the horse to be one and the same individual. Horses differ in intelligence, disposition, and temper. Those who profess to know anything about them pay much attention to the size, position, and motion of the ears. Horses with rather small than large ears, placed not too far apart, erect and quick in motion, indicate both breeding and spirit ; and if a horse is in the frequent habit of carrying one ear for- ward and the other backward, especially if he does so on a journey, he will generally possess both spirit and endurance. The stretching of the ears in contrary directions shows that he is attentive to everything that is passing around him ; and while he is doing this, he cannot be much fatigued, nor likely soon to become so. The temper is more surely indicated by a motion of the ear than of the eye ; and an experienced observer of horses can tell by the motion of their ears all that they think and mean. When the horse lays his ears flat back upon his neck, and keeps them so, he is most assuredly meditating mischief, and the bystander should beware of his heels or his teeth. In play, the ears will likewise be laid back, but not so decidedly, HISTOR Y OF THE HORSE. nor so long; a quick change in their position, togetlier with the expression of the eye at the time, will distinguish between playfulness and vice. The hearing of the horse is remarkably acute ; a thousand vibrations of the air, too slight to make any impression on the human ear, are readily perceived by him. The eye of the horse is also a pretty accurate index of his temper ; and experience has shown that, if much of the white of the eye is seen, he is a dangerous one, ever slyly watching for opportunities to do mischief; and the frequent backward direction of the eye, when the white is most perceptible, is only to give sure effect to the blow which he is about to aim. But, though bold and intrepid, he knows how to govern and how to check the natural vivacity and fire of his temper. He not only yields to the hand, but seems to consult the inclina- tion of his rider. Uniformly obedient to the impressions he receives, he flies or stops, and regulates his motions entirely, by his master's will. In a measure, he renounces his very ex- istence to the pleasures of man. He delivers up his whole powers ; he reserves nothing, and often dies rather than dis- obey. These are features in the character of the horse, the natural qualities of which have been perfected by art, and trained with care to the service of man. His education commences with the loss of liberty, and is completed by restraint. HOW TO TRAIN. Nature of the Horse. ^TVHE HOKSE has no reasoning faculties beyond the lim- J- its of his experience. Therefore we can reason with him by acts alone. Literally, with the horse, acts speak louder than words, and hence the absolute importance of commenc- ing every move with the horse right, for by our acts he learns. Secondly, early impressions are strong, both in the human family and with the horse, and seldom, if ever, are entirely erased from memory's tablet. Who is there in the human family that does not well remember the first impressions of his boyhood days? and as we journey on through life, what a controlling intluence they exert over us. Just so with the horse. Hence the great im- portance of having his first impressions of such, a nature as to convince him not only of man's superiority, but to satisfy him that man is his best friend. Obtain, by a systematic course of handling, not only supreme power over him, but learn him also to repose trust and confidence in you, and then never betray it. No animal has memory equal to that of the horse, and none will reciprocate a kindness or resent an injury sooner. We hold that man, being, on account of his intellectual resources, superior to all other animals, is, and has a right to be, at the head of all animal creation, for he can adopt means to over- come the strength of the horse, or even use iragainst himself. Necessity of Honesty and Kindness. You must treat the horse kindly ; you must obtain his con- fidence, and then never abuse it; deal honestly with him; never lie to him. He judges you by your acts. Never ask him 10 HO W TO TBAIN. to do anything without you are in a position to compel obedi- ence (if he has a correct idea of what you want), and then when the obedience is rendered, reward him for it. Be prompt, but never deceive him. Familiarizing to Objects of Fear. As we are tauglit, there is no effect without a cause, and as the horse becomes fearless and confident, so far as he under- stands there is no cause for fear, we should remove the cause of mischief as much as possible by complying with those laws of his nature by which he examines an object, or determines upon its innocence or harm. Therefore let him examine and smell of such things as are likely to frighten him, such as a log by the roadside, an umbrella, buffalo robe or other frightful object. His nose is his fingers. Use Intelligent Means. The horse should be treated with kindness and considera- tion ; you have a right to curb and restrain his spirit, but not to subdue it ; he has no more natural spirit than it is proper he should have, and -the great difficulty with all theories of horse- manship that have been promulgated to the world is, that they have been founded upon one idea of subjugation alone. Subju- gation is not teaching ; you have a right to restrain, to make him conform to your will. But you must also teach him what you want him to do. To hitch up the wild colt and say "whoa*"' to him, without having first taught him the word *' whoa," is unreasonable in the extreme. 'Tis true, we cannot handle the w^ild colt that is actuated by fear, as we can the old horse that is actuated by vengeance; with the one we are all mildness, whereas we take hold of the other in a manner that satisfies him that there is to be no partnership arrangement about it, but we are to have it our way all the time. To Halter a Wild Colt. Provide yourself with a pole, a piece of edging, a rake- handle or anything else of the kind ; cut a notch in one end, and about seven inches from this end raise a few chips from the opposite end of the stick. Take a common rope halter, draw out the stale through the loop so that that portion will HO W TO TRAIN. 11 drop down eighteen or twenty inches ; now hang the head- piece on the notches on the end of the stick, holding the end In your hand with the stick ; the halter now hangs upon the stick, so spread that you can put it over the colt's ears without touching any part of his head. You now approach the colt, swinging the halter, which immediately attracts his attention, and he will reach out his nose to smell it. While he is smell- ing it you cautiously raise it over his head until back of his ears ; then turn the stick half round and the halter will drop upon his head ; now take the end of the stick and shove up the loop so as to draw up the slack, and your colt is haltered ; and he is not frightened, and you are not hurt. To Learn the Colt to Lead. Step back on a line with his hips, and say, "Come here, sir," and give him a smart, sharp pull, which will swing him round to you ; then step to the opposite side and give him the same side pull, and say, "Come here, sir." If he should not pull easily enough, as soon a^you can soothe him enough to ap- proach him, fasten up one fore foot with a short strap ; and then you can pull him the more readily either side. Never pull him straight ahead, until after you have learned him to come promptly either side, for sideways you can pull him, and straight ahead you cannot. Do not let him know his strength, for he has no reasoning powers to say, " You can pull me side- ways, but straight ahead you cannot." Should he sulk after a few trials, and refuse to come either way, take a short hold of the halter with the left hand, while with the right grasp the tail firmly, and whirl him round until he acts dizzy; then whirl him the other way. This convinces him you can handle him just as you please. The moment he follows you, pat him for it. To Handle the Colt's Feet. ' Commence gently to pick up his feet, and if he resists you, treat as follows : If a fore foot, stand by the side of your colt and throw over his back a light strap, and tie it around his leg loosely, so that it will slip down to his fetlock joint ; then take up his foot with the strap, and keep close to his side until after he is through struggling ; then commence to soothe the foot 12 HO W TO TRAIN. with your hands, and pound upon it a very little. In a short time he will suffer you to handle it as you please. If a hind foot, take the fore foot in your left hand while with your right you pass the end of the strap around the hind leg below the fetlock. Now pull upon the strap, which will cause the foot to be drawn forward. This he will resist by kicking, but he soon finds resistance useless, and will give you his foot ; then take it into your hands and soothe as described for the forefoot. If a more thorough treatment is found necessary, use him accord- ing to directions laid down elsewhere for "the horse bad to- shoe." To Ride the Wild Colt. Stand upon the near side of your colt and throw over his back a piece of web or strap, and fasten to his right fore foot below the fetlock joint ; then take up his foot and hold it for a few minutes, until he ceases struggling ; then quietly let him have it, and lead him along a few steps and say "whoa," and at the same time you say "whoa," (ti'aw up the strap, which makes him stop, for it puts him on three legs. After you have led him a little ways in this way, stand by his side and take up his foot, wind your hand in the strap, and commence to jump up and down at his side a few times, keeping hold of the foot; then carefully jump on him with your breast, and slide back again ; then, while holding up the foot, jump quietly on his back. Now let down his foot, and if he shows the least disposition to stir, take up his foot and drop it and take it again. The idea is that he cannot think of two things at once, and the moment he thinks of throwing you off (which you detect by the drawing of the muscles of his back), you take his foot and change his attention to that, and his back is all right. This plan will ride any colt or horse. Yo Teach a Colt to Follow under the Whip. Buckle around your colt an ordinary surcingle rather loose- ly ; take a piece of web or a long strap, about fifteen or even twenty feet in length. Take the strap and pass it through the surcingle and fasten it to the colt's left fore foot; now take hold of the strap about six feet from where it passes through the surcingle, and, placing your whip over the colt's back. HOW TO TRAIN. 13 commence to tap him on the right side of the head very gently. If he turns his head toward you, and looks or makes a step toward you, stop and pat him ; if he attempts to leave you, take his foot and let him go on three legs, running around you ; the moment he stops, step up to him again, place your whip over his back and repeat, and in a very few moments he will turn towards you, the moment you place your whip on the op- posite side. Then you can take off the strap, and he will fol- low you readily, but be careful and not whip when he is turn- ing toward you. Keep him in difficulty with the whip when- ever he turns his head from you ; but the moment he turns toward you reward him, and he will soon learn there is no peace except by you ; and then practice will soon make him perfect. The same plan breaks the wild steer to " haw " and "gee" under the whii). The War Bridle. This is one of the most powerful means of control in the management of the horse that is known. The War Bridle is simply a cord of about the size of a common bed-cord or a clothes-line. It should be of cotton, and made of fine yarn, or what is known as fine thread cotton cord, about three- eighths of an inch in diameter, used extensively for clothes- lines. Take a cord of the above description — in length about fif- teen feet; tie one end into a hard knot, just as you would to prevent its raveling ; now tie another knot about ten inches, or a little more, from the one on the end, but before you draw it tight put through the knot on the end. You now have a loop that will not slip. This loop should be just large enough to slip over the under jaw of the horse you wish to train. Put the loop over the lower jaw, then, while standing on the near side, take the cord in the left hand and bring it over the neck by passing the left hand under the neck to the opposite side, toward the mane ; now bring the right hand over the neck, and take the cord from the left and pass back to the loop and put through from the top side, until the part over the neck is drawn down like a check rein, now take hold of the end of this rein and you will find you have a means of power in it that makes the strongest horse almost a plaything in your 14 HO W TO TRAIN. hands. You must use the bridle with judgment, for in the proper use of it consists its great value. In handling the colt with it you must use the utmost mildness, whereas many who have witnessed my operations, and then commenced subse- quently to use it, have made a little resistance on the part of the colt an excuse to use it in the most severe manher, until the eolt becomes so desperate with pain as to be entirely reckless and regardless of the utmost efforts ; but in the management of the old horse you can take hold of him as if you were deter- mined that any resistance on his part would be entirely useless. Step to one side of the colt and say, "Come here, sir," pulling a very little on the bridle, just enough to bring his head toward you, and repeat for a few times; each time that he comes toward you at the word, reward him with a pat on the neck ; and if he doesn't stir, pull him with the bridle. Any colt or horse can be made to follow you in a very few minutes with this bridle. To Teach the Colt to Back. Put on the War Bridle, stand directly in front of your horse, having hold of the cord — about twenty inches from the head — with your left hand, resting the right on the cord or bridle about four or five inches from the head. You will say, " Back, sir," and at the same time press down and back with your right hand steadily on the cord until, by way of relieving himself, he will step back one step ; let up on the cord and pat him. That teaches him what you want. Then repeat for a few times, and after you have given him the idea and the motion, you can then press him back sharply with the cord, and in a few minutes more, at the word. This will never fail to teach the colt or bad horse to back. Bitting the Colt. All you can possibly accomplish with the old-fashioned bit- ting bridle I can accomplish with my bridle in forty minutes, and that is to teach the horse to hold down his head, hold up his head, and to the right and to the left, at the touch of the rein. If nature has not designed the horse to have a high, stylish head and carriage, no art of man can alter it, and the old-fashioned practice of straining up the neck in an unnatural HO W TO TBAIN. 15 position, and leaving it there for liours, nine times out of ten results in a heavy-headed lugger on the bits. Care should be taken when first bitting the colt to have the tongue under the bit, for if he gets in the habit of carrying it over he will hang his tongue out of his mouth. How to Make a Bitting Bridle. Take your cord, previously used, and fix a loop upon the other end, just like the one used to go over the jaw, only big enough to go over his neck, and fit down rather tight where the collar is worn ; now bring your cord forward, and put it through the loop around the neck ; now pull upon this cord and the head will be drawn back to the breast. You are now prepared to bit ; simply pull upon the cord a little, and as soon as he curbs his head well, relieve him — that teaches him it is there you want it. When you want to raise his head, lift quickly on the cord, and you elevate his head finely. You should not bit over five minutes at a time, and then put it away, and after a little resume it, and in forty minutes' time, dividing each bit- ting into five minutes each, you can bit your colt well. Training to Harness. You should be very careful the first time you undertake to harness your colt, to see that the harness fits perfectly well, and that it is perfectly safe. Many accidents have been the result of such carelessness. Then, with the aid of the bridle to re- prove him, if he resists the putting of the harness on him, harness him, and after you have moved him about a little, at- tach to him, before you undertake to hitch him to the sulky, what I shall call a foot strap, which is simply a piece of web- bing, or a piece of strap or rope long enough to be fastened to one of his forward feet, and then run over the belly-band of the harness, and then outside of the tugs back to the buggy or sulky, which you hold in your hand as a life insurance or third rein. If he attempts to run away, pull upon the strap, which throws him upon three feet instantly, and he has to stop. If he attempts to run back, the same remedy stops him. If he attempts to kick you, attract his attention forward instantly, and at the same time make it impossible for him to kick. The moment you notice any disposition to kick, take his foot, which 16 JIOW TO TEA IN. disconcerts him, attracts his attention away from his hind parts, while it is impossible for him to kick ; but do not take his foot and hold it, but keep snatching and letting him have it, and you will soon break him up of the habit. This is one of the most powerful means of control ever yet devised, because you beat him while right in the act. Objects of Fear. Never whip your horse for becoming frightened at any object by the roadside ; for if he sees a stump, a log, or a heap of tan bark in the road, and while he is eyeing it carefully, and about to pass it, you strike him with the whip, it is the log or the stump, or the tan bark that is hurting him, in his way of reasoning, and the next time he will act more frightened. Give him time to examine and smell of all these objects, and use the war bridle to assist you in bringing him carefully to these objects of fear. Bring all objects, if possible to his nose, and let him smell of them, and then you can commence to gentle him with them. Driving. In teaching a young horse to drive well, do not be in a hurry to see how fast he can trot. Keep each pace clear and distinct from each other ; that is, in walking, make him walk, and do not allow him to trot ; while trotting, be equally careful that he keeps steadily at his pace, and do not allow him to slack into a walk. The reins, while driving, should be kept snug ; and when pushed to the top of his speed, keep him well in iiaud, that he may learn to bear well upon the bit, so that when going at a high rate of speed he can be held at liis pace ; but do not allow him to pull too hard, for that is not only unpleasant, but makes it often difficult to manage him. To Stand when getting into a Carriage. Take your horse on the barn floor and throw a strap over his back and fasten it to the right fore foot; lead him along, and say "whoa," at the same time pull down on -the strap, which throws him on three feet and makes him stop suddenly. This is the best way known to teach "whoa" — though you can put on the war bridle and say "whoa," and give him a sharp jerk ; that will stop him about as soon as the strap to the HO W TO TRAIN. 17 foot. Then put him in a harness with the foot strap, as direct- ed under the head of " Training to Harness," and drive him up to the door. The moment he undertakes to move, take his foot and say "whoa." Get into your carriage and get out again; rattle the thills; make all the noise in getting in and out you can; give him to understand, by snatching his foot each time he moves, that he must stand until you tell him to go; and after a few times you will have a horse that will stand perfectly still while the whole family enters the carriage. Balky Horses. When the horse balks in the harness, it is not from any un- willingness to perform his duty, but from some confusion or excitement arising from mismanagement. He is willing and anxious to go, but too eager or high-spirited to make the steady' push against the collar necessary to move the load. The usual plan is to commence to curse and lash. A volume might be written on the importance of keeping cool on all such oc- casions. Frequently, simply going to their heads and moving them gently against their collars to the right and left evenly, giving them time to get cool, and thej^ will start of their own accord. Sometimes taking up one fore foot in your hand, and giving the horse a sharp press against the shoulder, to one side, will cause him to step, and start him. But if the habit is tirmly tixed you will have to resort to the following means, which will take a few lessons, and thereby you will break up the habit. Take your balky horse in the barn, or on a piece of green- sward; take him by the head and tail, and whirl him around until he is quite dizzy ; and if you become dizzy before he does, let him whirl himself as follows : Tie the hair of the tail into a hard knot; then take the halter strap in your left hand, hold- ing the tail in your right, pass the halter strap through the hair, above the knot, and draw up as short as the horse will bear without falling down, tying it quickly. This will bring the horse in the form of a half-circle — his head fast to his tail by the halter strap. Your object is to break up his confidence in himself; and nothing on earth — no process you can subject him to, will do it half so soon as this. Should he not run round very freely, touch him behind with the whip, which 18 HOW TO TRAIN. will cause him to move sharply. Simply keep him moving until he falls down by becoming dizzy, which he will do inside of a minute and a-half. Let liim lie a few minutes ; tlien tie him in the opposite direction, and continue until he falls or is unable to move. Then put on your war bridle and give a few sharp jerks to the right and left, and show him that you can handle him by the head as well as by the tail ; and train him until lie will spring to the right and left, and straight forward, when you ask him to, and then you are in a shape to put him in harness. If he refuses to draw, step in front of him wy:li the bridle on, and fetch him either way first, and then straight ahead ; and in a short time you will work it out of him. If at any time your horse should become warm, put him away and let him cool. You will gain time by it, for when sulky and heated he is in no shape to learn. Kicking in Harness. Kicking in harness is regarded as one of the most dangerous habits that the horse has. How often do we hear the remark made by dealers, " I care not what he will do if he will not kick." It is generally the result in the first instance of gross carelessness and bad management. The habit in tlie colt, frequently, is formed by suffering the straps to dangle about his flanks and legs, which frightens him and makes him kick, as a matter of self-defense. In old horses the habit usually is caused by some mishap while in harness, such as hitching him too near, so that his heels touches the cross-bar, or by a bolt of the thills coming out and letting the wagon on his heels. This fear must be broken up by habituating the horse to iTeing touclied, and made to bear the various causes of mischief without the ability to resist ; when he, becoming convinced that there is no harm to be appreliended from them, will give up the habit. Your main remedy is tlie foot strap. Put on tlie foot strap, and as the horse moves off, say gently " whoa," and instantly pull upon the strap, which throws him upon three legs; and so continue until he will stop instantly when "whoa" is called. Then tempt the horse to kick, and the next instant take his foot. Put the strap between his hind legs and dangle it all around him ; use behind him any object that he is afraid of, and for the first few times in harness have the foot strap on, as the third rein. HOW TO TRAIN. 19 Kicking in the Stall. Many horses will kick in the stable as soon as the lights are put out and men gone ; they merely kick at the standings and stall posts, with what intention we never could find out ; idleness, we conclude, first induced them to do it, and habit induces them to keep it up. It is a bad trick, for it not only keeps them from their rest, but disturbs other horses. A small chain, ten or fourteen inches long, buckled with a small strap in the hollow of the pastern, usually stops them. If it does not, put a bridle on the horse, and then tie a rope to each side of the bit, run them through the surcingle, then fasten to each foot; whenever the horse attempts to kick he jerks his mouth violently, and soon learns to stand quiet. This rarely fails, but the arrangement should not be left on at night for fear of accidents. If neither will do, use the surcingle, with a three-inch ring slipped upon it, and hanging beneath the animal. Then take a short strap with a ring attached, and buckle around the forward foot below the fetlock. To the ring in the short strap attach a strong cord, which bring up and pass through the ring in the surcingle ; then rieturn to the foot and run through the ring in the short strap ; then pass over the belly band and tie to the hind leg below the fetlock. With this attachment on each side, the moment a horse kicks he pulls his forward feet from under and trips himself upon his knees, which he will be very careful not to do but a few times. To Prevent Getting Cast in Stall. Have a strap hanging from over head in about the centre of the stall, with a rein snap at the end of it. Have a small iron ring fastened on the halter on the top of the head. Hitch the horse in the stall with the halter as usual, and snap the hang- ing strap into the ring. It prevents his rolling over, conse- quently he cannot get cast. For Pawing. Attach a strap to his fetlock, with a bit of trace chain about fifteen inches long hanging from it. When he paws he whips his other shin with the chain. Halter-Pulling. Halter-pulling is one of the worst faults that a horse can have, as you cannot trust him anywhere, either in or out of 20 HO W TO TBAIN. the stable, it is, in most cases, the fault of the owner of the horse, that he contracts this bad habit, either by tying at first with insecure halters, or to weak and insecure hitching posts or mangers. Put on the war bridle and train the horse about until he will come to you readily when you pull him a little sideways. Simply repeat this, gradually a little more on a line with his body at each repetition, until he will yield as readily to being pulled forward as sideways. Now take him to the post and run the bridle through the ring, but do not tie it. Keep hold of the bridle and frighten him back ; as he starts to run back, give him a quick, sharp pull, and then let go. Do not hang on, even if he draws the bridle out of the ring. Fetch him up again, and repeat; and at the third or fourth trial 3'ou will not be able to make him pull. Yet do not con- sider him broken, by any means ; but repeat whenever he has the habit of pulling — at the post in the street, in the stall, or wherever it may be. Another plan is: Tiie a strap or piece of rope round the body, where the harness saddle rests ; then lead the horse to his manger or to a post, run the halter strap through the ring or hole, and pass back between the fore legs, over the strap or rope tied around the body, and tie to the hind leg, below the fetlock ; then step forward to his head and make him pull. Of course he will go back, with a rush ; but the moment he attempts going back, the halter strap pulls directly upon the hind leg, which frightens him behind, and he steps forward to get out of difficulty. Three or four lessons will usually break up the habit ; but do not be afraid of making him pull. Frighten him back, by all means possible. The more you can make him pull upon himself, at first, the quicker he will give it up. The Horse Bad to Shoe. Usually, a horse bad to shoe can be shod by attaching to his hind foot a short strap, and taking it in the right hand while he has the war bridle on, and with the left pulling his foot for- ward by the strap, at which he kicks, when 3'ou must reprove him with the war bridle, keeping his foot up with the strap until he submits without resistance. But if your subject is very bad, take a piece of webbing, a strap, or a rope about twelve feet long, and step before the horse and tie one end of HO W TO TRAIN. 21 it iu a loop around the neck, where the collar rests ; then pass the other end back between the fore legs, around the near hind leg, below the fetlock, bring forward outside of the left fore leg, and put through the loop around the neck ; then step a little in front of the horse, take hold of this strap and pull back upon it, until the foot is brougiit forward a very little, so that when he undertakes to step he can just reach the floor; in a few minutes more take up his foot as far forward as ix)ssible, when you can hold it very easily. He will struggle to free the foot by kicking, but you must let him struggle; and if he undertakes to run backward, whirl him round by his head until he will yield his foot. As soon as he yields a little, handle the foot gently, until he will suiter you to handle while back in its natural position. Be sure and rub the leg very carefully when you put it down, and use a soft strap or piece of webbing, for fear you may chafe the foot. Running Away. Put on the foot strap, and when he attempts to run, take up his foot, making him run and tripping him every time he will not stop instantly at the sound of " whoa." Should he be ex- tremely wilful, he may run on three legs. If you mistrust so, attach another strap to the opposite foot. Then make him run, and if he will not stop for the taking up of one foot, take up the second, which will destroy his confidence in short order. This will effectually correct any runaway horse or team. General Remarks. Mankind are too apt to depend upon their strength to beat the horse, without making any use of their reasoning powers to outTgeneral him ; and in many instances such an exercise of tyranny over the horse only engenders a rebellious spirit on the part of the animal. Therefore lay aside strength and use reason ; be moderate, be temperate. No man can become a good horseman, and not have first learned to control himself before he attempts to control the animal. Be firm, be perse- vering, be honest — never lie to your horse. Endeavor to have him understand what you want, and do not confuse him by attaching different meanings to the same word. It is quite common to say " Whoa ! " when you mean for the horse to go 22 HOW TO TBAIN. slower; and to let him know of your presence by saying •' Whoa ! " when he has not stirred a foot ; and then when you want your horse to stop — when your life may depend upon having a good *'whoa" on him — you find you have not got it. You have played it entirely out of him. Never say ** Whoa ! " unless you mean to stop right there. Speak always in a natural tone of voice, under all circumstances. Have your horse understand by examination and experience that the things liable to frighten are harmless ; and be sure not to whip him for being frightened. Always let your horse face the object of fear; and remember that the slower you move him when frightened the more power you have over him. There are times when letting a horse trot is almost as bad as letting him run away. Fear is something a horseman should never exhibit in his countenance or voice, as the horse is a close observer, and soon learns to take advantage of such indications, to become care- less of control, if not, indeed, aggressive. Let your lessons be thorough, but not very long. Be gentle and patient with the colt, but make the wilful, stubborn horse feel the full extent of your power until he submits; though if he should become much heated and excited, it is prudent to stop, and repeat the lessons at some future time ; but repeat until there is thorough and unconditional submission. Let your treatment be char- acterized by gentleness afterward. TRICK TRAINING, COs many of our readers may wish to know how to teach ^^Ti. their horses tricks, we will explain how it may be done. Teaching a young horse a few tricks, serves greatly to keep up an interest in him, and makes liim appear intelligent, fearless and affectionate. In teaching your horse to perform tricks, it is best to give him one or two lessons of half or three-quarters of an hour each, daily. To Come at Crack of Whip or Word of Command. Put on the war bridle, stand off a few feet from his liead, holding the end of the bridle in the left hand and the whip in the right. Crack the whip a little, and say, "Come here, sir ! " He does not know what this means, but you show him by pulling on the bridle a little, which he will obey by moving toward you a few steps. This movement you thank him for by stepping for- ward and giving him a little apple or a few kernels of corn, and caressing him gently ; then repeat in the same way, regarding him as before, and so continue until he will walk up to you readily when you crack the whip or say, "Come here, sir! " which he will soon learn to do. Each time he comes to you talk to him kindly, and do not fail to give him his little reward of corn or apple, oats, or something of the kind which he likes. You can now take off" his halter and turn him loose, and repeat until he fully comprehends that the way to avoid the whip is to come to you, which, with the encouragement of rewarding, will soon inspire his fullest confidence, and he will come to you and follow like a dog. Be very cautious about the use of the whip, or harsh lan- guage, remembering that perfect, cheerful obedience is your object, and that can be secured only by great patience and gen- tleness. 24 TRICK TRAININO. To Make a Bow. Take a pin in your right hand, between the thumb and fore- finger, and stand up before, but a little to the left of j-our horse. Then prick him on the breast very lightly, as if a fly biting, which to relieve he will bring down his head, and this you will accept as yes, and for which you will reward him by caressing and feeding, as before. Then repeat, and so continue until he will bring his head down the moment he sees the least motion of your hand towards his breast, or substitute some signal which he will understand readily. To Say No. tStand by your horse near the shoulder, holding the same pin in your hand, with which you prick him lightly on the withers, and to drive away, he will shake his head. You then caress as before, and repeat, until he will shake his head at' the least indication of touching him with a pin. A horse can be trained so nicely in this way in a short time, as to cause him to shake his head or bow, by merely turning the hand a little, or moving it slightly towards him. To Lie Down. To teach a horse how to do this trick quickly, you must lay him down two or three times, or as often as you will find it necessary to make him understand your object. If an old horse, strap the near foreleg to the arm ; then take the little strap previously used to temper the colt with, place it over the back and strap around the off fore foot, below the fetlock ; then take the bridle rein firmly in the left hand, about eighteen inches from the head, and pull it a little toward you. The moment he steps, pull upon the strap over the body, which will bring the horse on his knees. Hold him quietly, at the same time talking to him gently. When he springs, pull sharply with the left hand, and at the same instant pull down with the right, which will swing him around you, and prevent his rising high enough to injure his knees by the momentum of the body in coming down. By being gentle, the horse will usually lie down in a short time When down, treat your horse with the greatest attention and kindness. After holding him down ten or fifteen minutes, permit him to get up. Repeat TRICK TRAINING. 25 this lesson until he -will come down readily. Then use only the strap over the back, having it on the near foot, and bring him on his knees gently, when he will soon lie down. When he will come on his knees readily by taking up the foot in this way, take up the foot with the hand, asking him to lie down. He will soon come down. When he will come down on his knees readily by taking \\\> the foot with the hand, simply stoop as if intending to take it up, saying, " Lie down, sir! " Then make him come down by a motion of the hand; and finally, by simply telling him to lie down. If a colt, use but the single strap over the body at first, which will soon cause him to come on his knees. In teaching a horse to lie down, be gentle, caress and reward him for lying down, and your horse, comprehending what you want, and finding himself paid for compliance, will soon be as anxious to get down for the reward as you are to have him. To Sit Up. When your horse will lie down readily, you can then easily teach him to sit up, like a dog. If young, and not very heavy or strong, you can easily prevent his getting up without tying him down. First cause him to lie down, having on him a common bridle, with the reins over the neck ; then step behind him and place the right foot firmly on the tail, the reins in your hands. Then say, "Get up, sir!" The horse, rising from a recumbent position, first turns on his belly, throws out his forward feet and raises himself on them, springs forward and rises on his hind feet. Now, standing upon his tail firmly, and pulling back upon the reins when he attempts to spring forward and up, will prevent his doing so, and you hold him sitting up. Hold him firmly a few seconds, talk to him kindly, before permitting him to rise on his feet. Repeat a few times, when, instead of springing up he will sit upon his haunches a short time, which you are to accept as complying with your wishes. Always say, " Sit up, sir ! " every time, and hold him in this position as long as he will bear, by fondling and feeding him with something he likes from the hand, and your horse will soon learn to sit up for you as long as you wish. But if your horse is heavy and strong, it will be necessary to resort to other means to hold him down at first. It can be 26 TRICK TRAINING. done by putting on his neck a common collar, and causing him to lie down. Then fasten a piece of rope, or a rein, to each hind foot, and bring it forward through the collar and draw up close, which will bring the hind feet well forward. Then step behind, as in the other case, and when he attempts to rise on his hind feet, he finds it impossible to do so, because you hold them firmly with these straps. Repeat two or three times, when it will not be necessary to resort to such force. To Kiss You. Teach him first to take an apple out of your hand. Then gradually raise the hand nearer your mouth, at each repetition, until you require him to take it from your mouth — you hold- ing it there with your hand — telling him at the same time to kiss you. He will soon learn to reach his nose up to your mouth — first to get his apple, but finally because commanded to do so. Simply repeat until he understands the trick thor- oughly. To Shake Hands. Tie a short strap, or a piece of cord, to the forward foot, below the fetlock. Stand directly before the horse, holding the end of this strap or cord in your hand ; then say, " Shake hands, sir!" and immediately after commanding him to do so, pull upon the strap, which will bring his foot forward, and which you are to accept as shaking hands, thanking him for it by car- essing and feeding ; and so repeat, until, when the demand is made, he will bring the foot forward in anticipation of having it pulled. This is a very easy trick to teach a horse. By a little practice a horse may be easily trained to approach, make a bow, shake hands, and follow like a dog, lie down, sit up, &c., which makes him appear both polite and intelligent. Never lose courage, or confidence in your ability, because you may not bring about good results easily. To accomplish anything of importance, remember, requires no ordinary reso- lution and perseverance. There would be no credit or import- ance attached to mastering and managing bad horses, if not difficult, and apparently dangerous. No duty requires more firmness of purpose in the control of the passions, or more fidelity to the principles of kindness and truth, than that of horsemanship. TBICK TRAINING. 27 If you would be a really successful horseman, you must never seem to forget by your conduct that you are a man, and that your real superiority over the animal consists in the pru- dent exercise of your reasoning powers. Brute force is not your forte, and the'instant you give way to passion your reason must yield to the control of blind instinct, and you at once abdicate your intellectual superiority over the animal. Try to prove, by the example of your actions in the performance of the duty, that to be a good horseman, requires higher qualifications of fitness than that of the huckstering dishonesty and depravity so generally evinced in the conduct of those claiming the distinction. ART OF SHOEING. IF we examine the horse's foot while in its natural state, it will be found to be almost round, and very elastic at the heel ; the frog broad, plump, and of a soft, yielding character ; the commissures ojDen and well defined, and the sole concave; the outside of the crust, from the heel to the toe, increased from a slight level to an angle of about forty-five degrees. Consequently, as the hoof grows, it becomes wider and longer in proportion to the amount of horn secreted, and the narrower and shorter in proportion to the amount of horn cut away from the ground surface. If a shoe were fitted nicely and ac- curately to the foot after being dressed down well, it would be found to be too narrow and short for the same foot after a lapse of a few weeks. Now if an unyielding shoe of iron is nailed firmly to this naturally enlarging and elastic hoof, it prevents its natural freedom of expansion almost wholly, and does not, as the foot grows down, allow it to become wider at the quarters, in proportion to the quantity of horn grown, as before being shod; and consequently, the foot changes, from the continued effect of the restraint, from an almost round, healthy foot, to a contracted and unhealthy condition, as generally seen in horses shod for a few years. The principles which should govern in shoeing are few and simple, and it is surprising that a matter involving such serious consequences should be conducted with so little consideration. The object of the shoer should be, in trimming and preparing the hoof for the shoe, to keep the foot natural, and this involves: First — The cutting away of any undue accumulation ounce verdigris. Mix and apply after washing. Diuretic Drops Are reliable for stoppage of water, foul water, or inflaiumation of the kidneys, in all cases. Take of sweet spirits of nitre 4 ounces ; balsam copaiva 2 ounces ; spirits of turpentine 2 ounces; oil of juniper 2 ounces ; gum camphor, pulverized 1 ounce. Mix all together and shake well; bottle, and it is flt for use for man or beast, under all circumstances where a diuretic is required. Dose— for a horse,! ounce in half a pint of milk, once in six hours; for a man, one teaspoonful in a tablespoonful of milk, once in six hours. Be sure to shake the ingredients up well before turning out Un- use. BECIPES. 63 To Prevent Horses from Jumping. Have a good firm strap halter, made to fit the head nicely, with a wide strap stitched to each side, so as to come over the eyes. Cut holes in this strap over each eye ; over these eye-holes put fine wire cloth, supported nicely by wire, so that it will not possibly touch the eyes. Before a horse attempts jumping over a fence, he will put his head over to calculate the height and distance he is obliged to jump ; but by looking through the wire cloth, everything is so magnified in appearance he is disconcerted in his efforts to do so, and is afraid to jump. To Recruit when Hide-Bound, Or otherwise out of sorts : Nit. potassa (or saltpetre) 4 ounces; crude antimony 1 ounce ; sulphur 3 ounces. The nitrate of potassa and antimony should be pulverized; then add the sulphur and mix them well together. Dose, a tablespoonful of the mixture in a bran mash daily. Thrush. Cleanse the foot out well, then crowd in fine salt, and wash with beef brine. Difficulties in Foaling. The following information in regard to certain difllculties which some- times cause the death of valuable mares, as well as the manner in which those difficulties may be overcome, is kindly furnished for our pages by a gentlernan of many years' experience with the equine species. Frequently, just previous to the period of foaling, some accident occurs by which the position of the colt is changed, its head turned under, perhaps, or otherwise so disarranged as to prevent the further process of nature. At such time the efforts of the mare in trying to effect a delivery of the colt only render that object more difficult, by forcing everything back, the consequent strain closing the bones, and thus acting contrary to the plan of nature. To prevent this, cast the mare upon her back, tie a rope around each hind foot, pass the end ol the rope over a beain. or limb of a tree, whichever may be most favorable, and draw upon it till the hind part of her body is raised a foot or more from the floor, or ground. This throws the colt forward, opens the bones which have prevented its egress, and thus it can be easily handled and removed, and the mare's life saved. Physic Bail. Barbadoes aloes 1 pound; syrup buckthorn 3 ounces; cod liver oil 3 ounces. Melt the whole, and stir till cold. In winter, add a little water. Make into 18 pills, and give one every four hours, or as much as will more the bowels. Wind Calls. Olive oil 3 ounces; nitric acid 1 ounce. Rub in as much daily or every second or third day as it will bear without starting the hair. Stifle. First, prepare your medicine. Take four quarts white oak bark, rasped ; Eut it into eight quarts water, boil to two quarts ; turn off the liquid while ot, and add a three-penny paper of tobacco. Now let stand until a little above blood heat. Now heat a flat-iron or a brick ; then proceed immedi- ately to put the stifle in its place. Now bathe it thoroughly with the decoction about five minutes, then apply your flat-iron as near as the ani- mal will bear, until all absorbed. Then give the animal rest for one hour, and if it should possibly slip out again, repeat as before, observing care about straining for a few days. Another Re3IEDY.— One ounce sugar of lead ; 1 pint alcohol. Mix, and apply three or four times a day until a cure is produced. 54 BECIPES. Vegetable Caustic. Make a strong ley of hickory or oak ashes, put into an iron kettle and evaporate to the consistency of thin molasses; tlien remove into a sand bath, and continue the evaporation to the consistency of honey. Keep it in a ground stopped glass jar. This caustic is very valuable in fistula, cancers, scrofulas and indolent ulcers, particularly where tliere are sinuses, necrosis, or decay of the bone, and in all cases where there is proud flesh; and also to excite a healthy action of the parts. It removes fungous flesh without exciting inflamma- tion, and acts but little except on spongy or soft flesh. Anti-Spasmodic Tincture for Man or Horse. Oil of cajeput 1 ounce ; oil of cloves 1 ounce; oil of peppermint 1 ounce ; oil of anise 1 ounce; alcohol 1 quart. Mix all well together, and bottle for use. Dose for a horse 1 ounce every fifteen minutes, in a little whisky and hot water, sweetened with molasses; continue until relieved. Dose for a man, 1 teaspoonful. To Cover Heaves. Oil tar 1 ounce; oil amber 1 ounce. Mix, and give 15 or 20 drops in feed, daily. Harness Galls and Sores. Care must be taken that neither the trace nor any otlier part of the har- ness rubs against the sore while the horse is working. The following lotion should be applied to the sore twice a day, with a piece of sponge. The sore should not be rubbed, picked or fingered in any way : Acetate of lead % oz. ; tincture of opium, 3^ oz. ; glycerine, \% oz. ; water, C ozs. Cribbing Horses. The cure is very simple and easily applied. Get some pulverized cay- enne pepper, and si)rinkle it plentifully on the edge of the trough to which your horse is hitched, so that he will suck it up with the first draught of air. If you ride or drive out, carry some with you in a vial, and sprinkle some on the top of a post to which you tie the horse, and he will soou be cured. We have known this remedy to prove effectual. Sores Ulcerated with Proud Flesh. Take 1 oz. each white vitriol and burnt alum, pulverize them and mix them together, and sprinkle on the sore. Should the wound however be deep, a solution of \{Viy. white vitriol and one pint of rain water can be used with a syringe. After the proud flesh is destroyed use liniment com- posed of '4oz. each balsam of life and laudanum; mix in a bottle and shake welfbefore using. Gravel. Give two-thirds of a tablespoonful of saltpetre in a little salt, for three consecutive days; or take a pint of watermelon seed and boil in two tjuarts of water, till reduced to nearly one-half, and drench two morn- ings in succession. Your horse will soon be relieved. To make a White Foot, or a Star in a Horse's Forehead. Take pickled mackerel and confine it on, in any shape you please, three or four days repeating, and it will produce a white foot, or a white spot. Rub the white saddle spots on a horses back a few times daily in the spring of the year, before the coat is slied, with bacon grease, and it will restore the natural color. LIBRARY OF CONGRESS GEORGE L. 002 863 2150 Attorney at La\v, i^ J^lS^JD REAL ESTATE AGENT, 311 Main Street, PEOI^I^, - - ILLIIVOIS. Special attention given to perfecting titles, and to the recovering of property for heirs and others, through Illinois, Missouri and Texas. 100,000 ACRES OF WESTERN LAND For Sale or Exchange. \ IMPORTANT TO STOCK RAISERS. A Book on Jtoiv to raise valuable Stock of all kinds, and of either sex you choose. ETeryloily interested in STOCK EAISINIi slonlii Have it. Sent by mail to any address, securely wrapped, for$l.oO. Address, G. M. STANCHFIELD, Peoria, Illinois.