Glass Copyright N° COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. RICHMOND: 6 i An Illustrated Hand Book and Guide WITH NOTICES OF THE Battle-Fields I=»;F£IOJE^, 2-=> OE^HM^TS. RICHMOND An Illustrated Hand Book and Guide WITH NOTICES OF THE Battle-Fields. V BY C. POINDEXTER. i^i^ic^e:, ss cents. Copyrighted 1896. JUL IS 1896 RICHMOND, VA.: J. L. Hill Printing Co., Publishers and Printers, 1896. The memorials and the things of fame Tit a! do renown this city.'''' ^t*n^ CONTENTS: I. INTRODUCTORY. II. HISTORIC SYNOPSIS. III. STREETS AND PARKS. IV. STREET-CAR LINES. V. POINTS OF INTEREST. VI. CAPITOL SQUARE ] *SS%2Z£° VII. TOURS OF THE CITY. VIII. BUSINESS INTERESTS. IX. EDUCATIONAL. X. RELIGIOUS. XI. SOCIAL AND MILITARY. XII. HOSPITALS AND CHARITIES. XIII. RAILROADS. &c. XIY. BATTLEFIELDS. s INTRODUCTORY SEAL OF RICHMOND. FROM the vantage ground of any elevated point in or around Richmond the eye takes in a scene of varied and picturesque interest. The natural features of the landscape, with its variety of hill, valley, and plain, threaded by the waters of the river, combine to make a picture whose beauty has long been admired and celebrated. These natu- ral beauties seem a fit setting and frame for the city itself, with its varied human interests and romantic history. In natural and historic interest, fame ranks Richmond among the very first cities of the country, with a reputation far surpassing that of many other places superior to her in population and wealth. 4 Introductory. While the events of recent years have added to her ancient prestige as the capital of the Old Dominion, the city is also rapidly advancing, in her modern pro- gress, to a commercial and business importance that may prove commensurate with her ancient and his- toric interest. The busy, growing Richmond of to- day, fast developing her trade and manufactures, may enlist the interest and challenge the admiration of the mere business-man, who sees everywhere the results of energy and enterprise that have more than doubled the city's area and population since the war. Grati- fying as is this fact of material progress, yet the main element of the city's interest and fame is on the his- toric side. The visitor, overlooking the scene in and around the city to-day, may have his imagination stirred by the fact that his vision takes in the very spot trod by the first English settlers of this country, who, im- mediately after the landing at Jamestown, explored up the river as far as the present site of Richmond, where their further progress was stopped by the falls that now furnish water-power for the city. Here was the locality of famous Indian and colonial contests when the country around Richmond was yet only the frontier of advancing civilization. Over these roads and streets British troops marched when Richmond was invaded by Arnold and Tarleton in the last year of the Revolutionary war. Here was the arena of momentous events in the late civil war, when all the region around the city was the camping and march- Introductory. 5 ing ground of great armies, the thunder and smoke of whose battles was sometimes heard and seen within the city itself. Here the last scenes of that great contest culminated in the disaster and ruin that left large sections of the city in ashes. And here the same courage and energy that during four long years of war made the city as a fortress of rock — "A looming bastion fringed with fire" — have been applied in these later years to the arts and duties of peace, and have made Richmond what she is to-day. It is the design of this little book to describe briefly some of the attractions and characteristics of the city, and to serve as a guide to places and things of in- terest. The reader will consult the index at the end for reference to particular objects. HISTORIC SYNOPSIS R WILLIAM BYRD. (Founder of Richmond.) ICHMOND is at the head ot tide and navigation, on the north bank of James river, one hundred and twenty-five miles by water from the ocean. 1607. (May) Discovery of the site by Newport Historic Synopsis. 7 and Capt. John Smith, who explored the river to the falls. . 1645. Fort Charles erected for protection ot the frontier. 1656. Probable date of Bloody Run Indian battle. 1733. Town " at Shaccos, to be called Richmond," projected by Col. William Byrd. 173.7. Richmond founded, and lots offered for sale. 1740. St. John's church built. 1742. Richmond incorporated as a town. 1771. Great flood in James river. 1775. Virginia Convention met in St. John's church' Patrick Henry's "Give me liberty, or give me death" speech. 1779. Capital moved from Williamsburg. 1781. Richmond invaded by Arnold; Tarleton's raid disperses the Legislature. 1782. Incorporated as a city. 1785. Foundation of Capitol building laid. 1786. Old Masons' Hall erected; first Masonic building in America. 1787. Mayo's bridge built. A destructive fire burnt fifty houses. 1788. Virginia Convention ratified Federal Consti- tution. 1790. Population 3,761 . About 300 houses in the city. 1792. Capitol completed. 1793. Richmond Light Infantry Blues organized. 1800. Population 5,730. 8 Historic Synopsis. 1809. Haxall Flour Mills established. 1810. Population 9,785. 1811. (Dec. 26) Burning- of Theatre ; sixty lives lost. 1812. War vessel built by contributions of ladies of Richmond. 1814. Stone bridge built over Shockoe creek. Mon- umental church built. 1817. Union Hotel and Marshall Theatre built. 1820. Population 12,067. 1830. Population 16,060. Richmond College founded. 1831. Reservoir and water- works finished. 1837. Tredegar Iron Works established. 1838. Medical College established. 1840. Population 20,153. Exchange Hotel built. 1849. Hollywood Cemetery dedicated. 1850. Population 27,570. Corner-stone of Wash- ington Monument laid. 1851. Streets lighted with gas. 1858. Washington Monument dedicated. 1860. Population 37,910. State Convention met in December. 1861. State seceded from Union April 17th; 5,000 Richmond troops volunteered for service. ' ' Pawnee ' ' war, April 21st. 1862. Seven days' battles, June 25th-July 1st. 1864. (May-June) Grant's campaign around city. 1865. (April 3d) Evacuation by Confederate army ; large section of the city burnt. Historic Synopsis. 9 18 6 6. Richmond (now Commonwealth) Club founded. 1867. " Reconstruction" Convention met. Cham- ber of Commerce established. 1870. Population 51,038. April 27th, Capitol dis- aster, 65 killed, 200 injured. December 25th, Spots- wood Hotel burnt, with loss of three lives. 1875. (October 26th) Jackson Statue dedicated. 1876. Mozart Association organized. 1877. Westmoreland Club founded. Great flood in river, with rise of 25 i feet. 1880. Population 63,600. Commercial Club founded. 1881. Yorktown Centennial celebration. 1885. Cluverius murder case. August, four com- panies military attend General Grant's funeral in New York. 1886. Mozart Academy of Music dedicated. Elec- tric lights introduced. August 31st, heavy earthquake shock. 1888. Electric railways inaugurated. 1890. Population 81,388. Lee Monument ded- icated. 1892. Howitzer Statue dedicated. 1894. Soldiers' and Sailors' Monument dedicated. City Hall finished. Chamber of Commerce building finished. 1895. New Howitzer Armory finished. Jefferson Hotel opened. 1896. Population, estimated, 95,000. STREETS AND PARKS. THE streets of Richmond are generally laid off in such regularity that it is easy to find the way from one point to another. The main thorough- fares and cross streets, intersecting at right an- gles, form squares of nearly equal dimensions, that average about sixteen to a mile. The streets running east and west, the length of the city, are designated by names, the principal ones being, in order from the river, Cary, Main, Franklin, Grace, Broad, Marshall, Clay, Leigh. The cross streets below, or east of, Foushee street, are designated numerically ; from Foushee westward, they are designated by names. Signs at every corner show the name or number of the intersecting streets. On the main thoroughfares the houses are numbered east and west from Foushee street. The numbering on the cross streets, north and south, begins from Main street. For example : No. 900 east Main is the corner of Main and Ninth ; No. 900 west Main street is nine squares west from Foushee ; No. 400 north Ninth is four squares north of Main, and so on through the city. The principal business streets are Cary, Main, and Broad, most of the retail shopping business being located on Broad, from Ninth street westward. The area of the city is about five and a half square miles, and there are about one hundred and sixteen miles of streets. Streets and Parks. 11 Richmond is well provided with parks or public squares, whose total area is nearly one-tenth of the city. The most important of these are — Capitol Square, about 10 acres. New Reservoir Park, 300 acres, at the west end. Chimborazo Park, 39 acres, at the east end. Jefferson Park, 6 acres, at Church Hill avenue and Twenty-first street. Marshall Square, 7 acres, on Libby Hill. Gamble s Hill, 8 acres, foot of Third street. Monroe Square, 7 acres, at Main and Belvidere streets. Riverside Park, 4 acres, foot of Laurel street. STREET-CAR LINES. IINES of electric and horse cars traverse the city, giving easy and rapid transit to, or within a short -rf distance of, most points within the corporate limits, or on the suburbs. Three lines of electric railway run the length of the city, covering routes about four miles in length. The Main- Street Line extends the length of that street, from East Richmond and Fulton, the lower part of the city, to Reservoir Park, at the extreme west end. This line passes the steamboat wharves at Rocketts, Libby Hill, County Courthouse, St. John's church, two squares north, at Twenty-fifth street; Libby Prison site, one square south, at Twentieth street; the Old Stone House, the First Market, Lex- ington Hotel, Post-office, the Banks, Chamber of Commerce building, Rosemary Library, Jefferson Ho- tel, Monroe Park, Soldiers' Home, two squares north at the Boulevard. The line connects and transfers at Fourteenth street, southward to Manchester, north- ward to Marshall street ; at Ninth street northward to Broad ; at Seventh street southward to Union De- pot, Manchester, and Forest Hill Park, northward to Chestnut Hill ; at Laurel street southward to Holly- wood, northward to Broad street ; at Beech street southward to the Reservoir, northward to Clay street. Street-Car Lines. 13 The Broad- Street Line extends the length of Broad street from Chimborazo Park to the Fair Grounds, passing St. John's church, Jefferson Park, Chesapeake and Ohio Depot, Monumental church, Ford's Hotel, City Hall, Murphy's Hotel, Masonic Temple, Richmond College, Lee Monument. The Clay -Street Line, extending from Union and Church Hills, passes through various cross and main streets to reach its western terminus at Main and Beech streets. On Church Hill avenue it passes Jeffer- son Park ; on Franklin street it passes the First Mar- ket, Exchange Hotel, Capitol Square, Lee residence. From Franklin street it passes up Seventh to Clay, thence westward to Hancock and Beech streets, where it connects with the Main-street and Reservoir lines. Its route is mainly through residence streets. This line connects at Seventeenth street northward to Loco- motive Works and Chesapeake and Ohio Company's shops ; at Seventh street northward to Chestnut Hill, southward to Union Depot, Manchester, and Forest Hill Park ; at First street northward to Barton Heights and Lakeside Park ; at Beech street southward and westward to Old and New Reservoirs. The Marshall- Street Line extends from Main and Fourteenth to Marshall and Seventh streets, and from Adams street westward to the Fair Grounds. Cross lines extend to the northern suburbs, and southward to Manchester and Forest Hill Park, across the river. They connect with main lines — 14 Street-Car Lines. At First street for Barton Heights and Lakeside Park. At Seventh street northward for Chestnut Hill and Highland Park, southward for Union Depot, Man- chester, and Forest Hill Park. At Fourteenth street for Manchester by way of Mayo's bridge. At Seventeenth street northward to Locomotive Works and Chesapeake and Ohio Company's shops. The Seven Pines Electric Railway connects with the eastern terminus of the Clay-street line for the Seven Pines Battlefield and National Cemetery. The line passes through the flourishing village of Highland Springs, about four miles from the city. Hacks and carriages may be had at public stands, livery stables, and hotels. The Richmond hackman is generally a good-natured and polite colored Jehu, but the stranger may be warned that his information or invention is sometimes gauged to gratify the cus- tomer's curiosity. [For suggestions and information about tours of the city, see the chapter on that sub- ject] POINTS OF INTEREST GENERALLY. THE attractions of a city, about which the stranger asks for information, are its objects of natural or artistic beauty, or things and places invested with interest from historic association. Forty years ago Thackeray said of Richmond that it was the merriest place and the most picturesque that he had seen in America. The merriment that he found was a feature in the domestic life of the people, white and black, that has been somewhat modified by the stern experience of later years, but the picturesque element of the city's situation and surroundings is a lasting feature impressed by the hand of nature on a land- scape rarely equalled in beauty and variety. In recent years— within the life- time of many of the present generation— Richmond has been the arena and centre of historic incidents and events of world-wide fame, of romantic and thrilling interest, more than enough to furnish a stock for half a dozen average cities, and it is the scenes of this history that have most interest for visitors generally. The view of the city and its surroundings from any commanding point presents a picture of varied beauty and interest. On one side of the river that divides the landscape, the city is spread out over the hills and valleys that form its varied topography. Across the river are the town of Manchester and the wide stretch 16 Points of Interest Generally. of level country surrounding it and extending to the fringe of forest on the horizon. In the far distance the silver line of the river is lost in the curves of its winding course to the sea. Libby Hill, in the eastern section, commands one of the widest and most interesting views of the city and its surroundings. Just below the hill, on the level ground between it and the river, is Rocketts, the oldest settled part of the city. The view westward takes in a very considerable section of the older part of the city, stretching from Rocketts to the crown of Shockoe Hill. Northward and eastward from the hill are the streets and roads over which marched thou- sands of troops during the late war to the battlefields around the city, and over which the Federal troops entered the city after its evacuation by the Confede- rate forces. No battlefield is visible from this or any other point in the city, the view being obstructed by woods and the unevenness of the rolling country be- tween the city and the battlefields, whose distance varies from five to twenty miles out from town. Libby Hill is one of the outward spurs of the ex- tensive plateau of Church Hill, which was so named from the location on it of old St. John's, in very early days the only church in the city. A few squares from the church is Jefferson Park, from whose elevation, crowning a spur of Union Hill, another extensive view is had of the older part of the city, looking across Shockoe valley to the plateau of the opposite hills. Below the hill, on Main street, is THE OLD STOVE. Points of Interest Generally. 17 the Old Stone House, built probably before the middle of the last century. Down by the river, not far from the old house, was the site of Libby Prison, until the enterprise of speculators moved it to Chicago. Fur- ther west, on the slope of Broad street, is the Monu- mental church, and near by is the Davis Mansion, the war-time residence of the Confederate President. Crowning the level of Shockoe Hill are the City Hall and the Capitol Square with the State public buildings, the Washington Monument and other works of art. In the neighborhood of the Capitol were the department offices of the Confederate Gov- ernment. The President's office and the Treasury were in the Post-office building. Most of the build- ings occupied by other departments were burned in the evacuation fire of 1865, which swept the area from Main street to the river between Gamble's Hill and Fifteenth street. In this neighborhood are now the quarters of the tobacco and grain exchanges and other commercial bodies, including the Chamber of Commerce building. Westward from the Capitol are the principal resi- dent sections of the city, where many of the streets are almost sylvan in aspect, with their thickly-planted shade trees. At the foot of Third street Gamble's Hill commands a beautiful and extensive view of the river and parts of the city, overlooking Belle Isle, a noted prisoner's camp during the war. On the hill to the right is the State Penitentiary, and a short dis- tance above is Hollywood Cemetery, with its pictu- 18 Points of Interest Generally. resque beauty of wooded hill and glen, and famous as the burial place of many illustrious dead. Twenty years ago Monroe Park was about the western limit of the city. Since that time the modern growth of Richmond has extended far beyond to the westward, and the streets of this new section are adorned with many handsome residences. At the head of Franklin street, just beyond the spacious grounds of Richmond College, is the Lee Monument, and further out are the Soldiers' Home and Reservoir Park, a favorite public resort at the western terminus of the Main-street electric car line. Most of the points mentioned are reached by, or in a short dis- tance from, electric car lines. Scattered through the city are many establishments and institutions where the visitor finds much to interest him. The Valentine Museum is an exceedingly valu- uable collection and library, mainly illustrative of American archaeology, and the studio of Mr. E. V. Valentine, the sculptor, is much visited by lovers of art. The large and massive Masonic Temple is one of the landmarks of upper Broad street, and the lofty clock towers of the new Jefferson Hotel are conspicu- ous objects from many points. The architectural beauty and fine appointments of this building, cover- ing half a square of ground from Franklin to Main streets, have gained for it wide reputation as one of the finest hotels in the country. Points of Interest Generally. 19 MASONIC TEMPLE. Richmond is well supplied with religious, scientific, and social institutions that illustrate the life and char- acter of her people. The visitor may find in these, as well as in her business and manufacturing establish- ments, much to engage his interest. More particular notice of many of the objects and points mentioned will be found in subsequent pages. 20 Points of Interest Generally. Many of the suburbs of Richmond are attractive from their natural beauty, but their chief interest is as the scenes of conflict in the late war. In many places there yet remain the earthworks thrown up for defence A. P. HILL MONUMENT. of the city, and in a zone of from three to twenty miles outside the city every road leads to battlefields, some of which were scenes of the severest conflicts of the war. Yellow Tavern, where Stuart fell in repuls- ing Sheridan's raid ; Strawberry Hill, across whose Points of Interest Generally. 21 wide meadow Hill's division moved to open the seven days' battle that ended at Malvern Hill ; Mechanics- ville, Gaines' Mill, Cold Harbor, Savage Station, Seven Pines, are among the more noted fields of a region every foot of which was trampled by hostile forces in the campaigns of 1862 and 1864. These and other places, easily accessible from the city, are visited by many tourists. [For notices of battlefields see the chapter on that subject.] Richmond is the centre of a region of the highest historic interest. A circuit of one hundred miles around the city is the arena of more historic events than any other equal area in this country. Within that radius Anglo-American civilization was founded on this continent, and the political and military history of the Revolution was practically begun and ended ; and here were decisive contests of the civil war. This circuit embraces Jamestown, Williamsburg, York- town, Petersburg, with Appomattox just outside the circle. All of these points are conveniently reached from Richmond by rail or water. CAPITOL SQUARE THE Capitol Square is the centre of interest in Richmond, as the spot in and around which cluster many memorials of the State's history. The Square, enclosing about ten acres of ground, is an ideally beautiful park, adorned with trees, flow- ers, and fountains. From the terrace on which stands the Capitol building, the ground gently slopes on the south side, where it falls away to the level of the street below. The appearance of the grounds now, with their smooth, grassy sward and intersecting walks, is a great contrast to their original aspect, as described by an antiquarian whose memory went back to the years of the last century. The Square was then a rugged piece of ground, furrowed by deep ravines and overgrown with bushes and weeds. Within the enclosure of the Square are the State Capitol, the Governor's Mansion, the Library Build- ing, the Washington Monument, and the Clay and Jackson Statues. The Capitol is a building severely plain in architec- tural character, whose simple dignity owes nothing to ornamental decoration. Its classic lines and noble portico are worthy of more fitting material than the plain brick, now stuccoed and painted, of which it is built, a material whose cheapness recommended it to the poverty of the generation that erected the build- Capitol Square. 23 ing. The general design for the building was fur- nished by Mr. Jefferson, while minister to France, who sent a model and plans taken from a famous Roman temple of antiquity. The plans were adopted, "with some corrections not for the better," as Mr. Jefferson says. The building, begun in 1785, was finished in 1792. With its associations of more than a century 24 Capitol Square. of Virginia history, it has been the scene and arena of much that has made that history illustrious. One convention (1829-30) that met in its halls in- cluded, among others only less famous, such members as ex- Presidents Madison and Monroe, Judge Mar- shall, and John Randolph. Of this convention it has been said that the report of their proceedings and the Bible contain more good law than any other books in the world. During the late war, by courtesy of the State authorities, the Confederate Congress held its sessions in the building. In the basement of the building is the State Land Office, containing records of grants and patents dating back to 1620. These are the original grants from which are derived the deeds to landed property within the Commonwealth. On the floor above are the Rotunda and Legislative halls and clerks' offices. In the Rotunda is Houdon's marble statue of Wash- ington, a work justly pronounced to be worthy of its subject and of the great artist (the most famous sculp- tor of his time) who modelled it from Washington's person, having come from France for the purpose. Lafayette pronounced it to be " a facsimile of Wash- ington's person." The act of Assembly voting the statue was passed in 1784, and the statue was erected in 1796. The in- scription on the base, penned by Mr. Madison, shows the estimate of Washington by his fellow-citizens, even before he added to his fame the glories of his Presi- dential administration. The inscription reads : HOUDON'S STATUE OF WASHINGTON. 26 Capitol Square. "The General Assembly of Virginia have caused this statue to be erected as a monument of affection and grati- tude to George Washington who, uniting to the endowment of the hero the virtues of the patriot, and exerting both in establishing the liberties of his country, has rendered his name dear to his fellow-citizens, and given to the world an immortal example of true glory. Done in the 3 T ear of Christ, one thousand seven hundred and eighty-eight, and in the year of the Commonwealth the twelfth." In a niche of the wall is a bust of Lafayette, also from the chisel of Houdon. This is a replica of the original presented by the State of Virginia to the city of Paris. In other niches are busts of Judge Marshall and General J. E. B. Stuart. On opposite sides of the Rotunda are the halls of the Senate and House of Delegates. On the wall of the Senate Chamber hangs Lamis' painting, "The Storming of a Redoubt at Yorktown." This work of the French artist was presented to the State by Mr. W. W. Corcoran, of Washington. The Confederate House of Representatives held its sessions in this chamber. The Confederate Senate met in a room on the floor above, since remodelled for the Governor's office. In the hall of the House are full length portraits of Mr. Jefferson (attributed to George Catlin) and the Earl of Chatham, the English statesman and vindica- tor of the colonies. On the third floor of the building are the offices of the Governor and the Secretary of the Commonwealth, Capitol Square. 27 and various committee rooms of the Legislature. The State Library, formerly on this floor, and the collec- tion of portraits that hung around the gallery, have been removed to the new Library Building. In the gallery are preserved two interesting relics — the Speaker' s Chair and the Old Stove, from the Colonial House of Burgesses. The tradition is that the chair was a present from Queen Anne. In colo- nial days it was decorated with the royal arms of Eng- land, which were removed at the beginning of the Revolution. For nearly a century after the indepen- dence of the State it was kept in use in the House of Delegates. The Old Stove is an elaborate and artistic piece of iron work, decorated with the colonial arms and alle- goric figures and legends. Its maker (Buzaglo), who called it a "warming machine," boasted of it as "a masterpiece, not to be equalled in all Europe." Made in London in 1770, it was a present to the House of Burgesses from Lord Botetourt, the Colonial Gover- nor. It was continued in use until superseded in recent years by the present steam-heating apparatus in the rotunda. The fearful Capitol Disaster of April 27, 1870, was caused by the falling of the floor of a room in the northeast corner, used at the time by the Court of Ap- peals. The session of the court was attended by a packed mass of people, drawn to hear the decision in a case that would settle the question of carpet-bag rule in the city of Richmond. In those days of so-called 28 Capitol Square. reconstruction, the mayoralty had been usurped by a carpet-bagger, the contest against whom had nearly culminated in bloody riot, only averted by the greatest prudence and forbearance. Under the weight of the great crowd gathered to hear the decision of the case the floor of the court-room gave way, precipitating the mass of humanity into the Hall of Delegates be- low. Sixty-five persons were killed and two hundred maimed and injured, many prominent citizens being among the victims of the disaster. The view from the top of the Capitol commands a wide prospect of the city and surrounding country, and will repay the trouble of climbing the flights of steps leading to the roof platform. The Washington Monument is generally conceded to be the finest, as it is the most elaborate, group of statuary in this country. The corner-stone was laid with imposing ceremonies February 22, 1850, and the equestrian statue, crowning the monument, was un- veiled and dedicated February 22, 1858. The monu- ment and most of the figures were the design and work of Thomas Crawford, born in New York, 1813. His death in 1857 left the work unfinished, and the commission for completing it was given to Randolph Rogers, who made the figures of Nelson and Lewis, and the six allegorical figures on the outer pedestals. The height of the monument from the ground to top of Washington's hat is sixty feet ; height of equestrian statue, twenty feet ; height of the figures Jefferson, Henry, and others on the pedestals around the shaft Capitol Square. 29 01 the monument, eleven feet. The diameter of the circular base of the monument is eighty- six feet, and WASHINGTON MONUMENT. the cost ot the work was about $260,000. The statues in bronze represent — 30 Capitol Square. George Washington, born 1732, died 1799. Patrick Henry, the orator of the Revolution. Thomas Jefferson, author of the Declaration of Indepen- dence. George Mason, author of the Virginia Bill of Rights. John Marshall, Revolutionary officer, afterwards Chief Justice of United States. Thomas Nelson, General, and Revolutionary Governor of Virginia. Andrew Lewis, distinguished officer in Indian Colonial wars and General in Revolutionary army. The allegorical figures on the lower pedestals, typi- fying the leading facts and sentiments of the Revolu- tion, are inscribed with the names of some of the im- portant battles of that contest. The design of the monument, as a whole, is a memorial of the Revolu- tionary era and its heroes. The Henry Clay statue, in marble, under a pavilion, near the Washington Monument, was a gift to the State from the country-women of the great orator. The statue (made by Hart) was dedicated In 1860. The old Bell House, at the Franklin-street entrance of the Square, was the guard-house when, in former days, the State Guard (now obsolete) did police duty in the Square. The Jackson Statue is on the north side of the ave- nue, between the monument and the Governor's house. This noble work in bronze, designed by the English sculptor Foley, was the gift of some of his countrymen, as an English testimonial in honor of the great Virginia soldier. The base of the statue bears the memorial inscription : JACKSON STATUE. 32 State Library. "Presented by English gentlemen as a tribute of admi- ration for the soldier and patriot, Thomas J. Jackson, and gratefully accepted by Virginia in the name of the South- ern people. Done A. 1)., 1875, in the hundredth year of the Commonwealth. 'Look! there is Jackson standing like a stone wall." " The dedication of the statue, October 26, 1875, was a memorable occasion, attended by thousands of ex- soldiers and citizens. The Governor' s Mansion, the official residence of the Executive, is at the eastern end of the avenue. Just below it is the Library Building, which is really and mainly an office building, in which are located most of the State officials. The building, recently finished, is a beautiful example of classic architecture, adapted to modern use. On the first floor are the offices of the Auditors, the Treasurer, and Adjutant- General. On the second floor are the Commissioner of Agriculture, Superintendent of Public Instruction, Attorney-General, Railroad Commissioner, and the office and court-room of the Court of Appeals. The State Lifo-ary occupies the third floor, reached by elevator. The Library is an exceedingly valuable collection of books, manuscripts, portraits, and his- toric relics. Containing some forty thousand volumes, it is especially rich in American and English history, with valuable collections in most departments of lite- rature, making it one of the best working libraries in the country. The gallery of portraits, pictures, and relics is a large illustration of the history of the State. Among them may be mentioned : State Library. 33 34 State Library. Appomattox — Ideal figure of a Confederate soldier ; typical of the Appomattox surrender. Painted by J. Elder. Archer, William S. — Representative in Congress, 1820- '35 ; U. S. Senator, 1841-'47. Painted by Healy. Blair, J. D. — Distinguished Presbyterian clergyman, familiarly known as "Parson" Blair; contemporary with " Parson " Buchanan. Buchanan, "Parson" — Died 1822. For many years, rector of Episcopal church in Richmond. Barbour, James — Governor 1811 ; U. S. Senator 1815-'2f> ; Minister to England 1828-29. Brooke, Robert — Governor 1796-'97 ; Attorney-General, 1798. Cabell, W. H. — Governor 1805-'S : Judge Court of Ap- peals 1811-'51. Campbell, D. — Governor 1837-'40. Clabk, J. R. — Born 1752. As Commander of Virginia troops (1778-'79) he conquered the Northwest territory, ex- tending the borders of the United States from the Ohio river to the Great Lakes. Clay, Henry — Born in Hanover count}' 1777 ; died 1852. Copy from original by Neagle. Delaware, Lord — Governor 1610. Dunmore, Lord— Last Royal Governor. 1771- , 75. Elliott, General — Said to have been half-brother to Governor Spotswood, but of doubtful authenticity. Floyd, John— Governor 1830-'31. Floyd, J. B.— Governor 1849-'53 ; U. S. Secretary of War 1857-'60 ; Brigadier-General C. S. A. Francisco, Peter — Died 1831 ; a giant of Revolutionary fame, of whose prowess and gallantry many stories are told. Giles, W. B.— Governor 1827-'30 ; member of U. S. House of Representatives and Senate. Gilmer, T. W. — Governor 1840-'41 ; Secretary of Navy 1844 ; killed by bursting of a gun on frigate Princeton. State Library. 35 Hill, A. P.— Lieutenant-General C. S. A.; killed near Petersburg April 2, 1865. His name was among the last words on the dying lips of both Lee and Jackson, who both, in moments of delirium, muttered something about battle orders to Hill. Henry, Patrick— Born 1736 ; orator of the Revolution ; first Governor of the State 1776, and again 1784-'86. Howard, Lord — Governor 1683-'88. Jefferson, Thomas— Governor, and President United States. Copy by J. Elder from original portrait by G. Stuart. Jackson, T. J.— Lieutenant-General C. S. A. Painted by G. Matthews. Johnson, Joseph— Governor 1852-'55. Johnson, Ed. — Major-General C. S. A. Johnston, J. E.— General C. S. A. Painted by J. Elder. Kemper, J. L.— Major-General C. S. A. ; Governor 1874-78. Lee, R. E.— General C. S. A. Painted bv Elder. Lee, Henry (" Light Horse Harry ")— Father of General R. E. Lee; Colonel of " Lee's Legion," Revolutionary army; Governor 1792-'95 ; author of the phrase in eulogy of Wash- ington, " First in war, first in peace, and first in the hearts of his countrymen." Copy by W. L. Sheppard of an orig- inal portrait by G. Stuart. Lee, Fitzhugh— Major-General C. S. A.; Governor 1886- '90. Painted by Cox. Lewis, Meriwether — Explored, with William Clark (1804-'6), the country from the Missouri to the Pacific. Letcher, John— In Congress 1852-'59; Governor 1859-'63. r Madison, James— Father of the Constitution, Secretary of State, and President United States. Marshall, John — Chief Justice United States. Painted by Inman. 36 State Library Mason, George — Author of the Virginia Bill of Rights; member of U. S. Constitutional Convention, and Virginia Convention of 1788 ; refused to sign and voted against the Constitution. Maury, M. F.— Born 1806, died 1873; Commander U. S. and C. S. Navies; eminent scientist, and "Pathfinder of the Seas." McDowell, James — Governor 1843-'46. McKinney, P. TV- Governor 1890-'94. Monroe, James— Governor of Virginia 1811 ; Secretary of State and President of United States. Copy from origi- nal portrait by G. Stuart. Nelson, William — President of Colonial Council and acting Governor 1770— '71. Nelson, Thomas — Member of Virginia Conventions of 1774-'5-'6 ; of Continental Congress, and signer of Declara- tion of Independence ; Brigadier-General and Commander of Virginia militia ; Governor 1781. Page, John— Member of Congress 1789-'97 ; Governor 1802-'5. Copy by Healy from a portrait at age of fifteen, painted by Benj. West. Pickett, George E.— Born 1825, died 1875; Major-Gen- eral C. S. A.; commanded the charging column at Gettys- burg. Pocahontas — Daughter of Powhatan, Emperor of Vir- ginia ; rescued Captain John Smith, married John Rolfe, and died in England 1616. Copy by W. Sheppard from the original portrait in England. Preston, J. P.— Colonel U.. S. Army in war of 1812; Governor 1816-'19. Randolph, Edmund— Aid to Washington, member of Continental Congress, and Governor 1786-'88 ; member of U. S. Constitutional Convention 1787, and Virginia Conven- tion of 1788 ; first Attorney-General of U. S., and Secretary of State 1794. State Library. 37 Randolph John (of Roanoke)— Born 1773; in House of Representatives 1800-'13, 1815-24 ; U. S. Senator 1825-'27; Minister to Russia 1830. Ritchie, Thomas —Born 1778, died 1854; editor of the Richmond Enquirer. " Father Ritchie " was of great and wide influence in the politics of his day. Robertson, W. — Governor 1836-'37. Robinson, John — Speaker House of Burgesses; died 1766. Roane, W. H — Member of House Representatives and Senator ; died 1845. Rochambeau, Count —Commander of French forces at Yorktown 1781. This portrait has a curious history. It was found and bought in South Africa by a British officer, who presented it to the State. The presentation was made through a Rochambeau, a descendant of the original, during the centennial celebration of 1881. Rutherford, John — Governor 1841-'42. Smith, G. W. — Governor 1811 ; lost his life in Richmond Theatre fire, December, 1811. Smith, Captain John— Born 1579, died 1632 ; landed with first colonists at Jamestown, May, 1607, and immedi- ately after explored up James river to present site of Rich- mond ; rescued from death by Pocahontas, January, 1608; President of Council in Virginia 1608-'9 ; author of the first History of Virginia. Painted by J. Elder. Smith, William— Born 1797, died 1887 ; Governor 1846- '49, 1864-65 ; Brigadier-General C. S. A. Spotswood, Alex. — Governor 1710-'22. In 1716 led ex- ploring party ("Knights of Golden Horseshoe") to the Shenandoah Valley. Stuart, J. E. B.— Born 1833, died 1864; Major-General C. S. A., commanding Cavalry of Army of Northern Vir- ginia ; mortal^ wounded at Yellow Tavern, near Rich- mond, May 11, 1864. Thompson, J. R.— Born 1823, died 1873 ; editor of South- ern Literary Messenger ; poet and writer. 38 State Library. Tyler, John, Sr.— Governor 1808-'ll. ■ Tyler, John, Jr.— Governor 1825-'27 ; President United States. Washington, George — Photogravure from the G. Stuart portrait. Washington, Mrs. Martha— Photogravure from the G. Stuart portrait. Walker, G. C— Born in New York 1832 ; "Reconstruc- tion " Governor 1870-74. Wise, H. A. -Born 1802, died 1876 ; Governor 1856 '60 ; Major-General C. S. A. Among other important objects of interest, framed and hung on the walls of the Library galleries, may be mentioned : Autograph letters of Daniel Boone, General A. P. Hill, Thomas Jefferson, General R. E. Lee, General T. J. Jackson (January 31, 1862), tendering his resignation because the Secretary of War, at Richmond, interfered with his opera- tions, and his last dispatch to General Lee, written a few hours before his mortal wounding at Chancellorsville ; General H. Gates, to the President of Congress, announcing the surrender of Burgoyne ; E. A. Poe, March 4, 1843 ; George Washington, December 7, 1799, and a plat of sur- vey (1749) when he was seventeen years old. Tobacco Proclamation, 1630. Broadside Proclamation of resolution of the House of Burgesses, May 16, 1769, as to rights of taxation. Broadside (1769) with autograph signatures of members of the "Association" pledged against use of British goods Autograph draft Virginia Bill of Rights, 1776, signed by George Mason. Lord Cornwallis' parole, Yorktown, October 28, 1781. Richmond Theatre play-bill, December 26, 1811, the night of the fatal fire by which sixty lives were lost. State Library. 39 Facsimile of letter from Lafayette commending: valuable service rendered by a negro slave, James, with portrait of the old darkey, who was bought and set free by act of Legislature. Facsimile copy of bail-bond of Jefferson Davis, signed by Horace Greeley, Cornelius Vanderbilt, and other prominent citizens, North and South. In addition to the items mentioned above, are numerous other documents, letters, and pictures, some of which are of great historic and antiquarian interest. TOURS OF THE CITY THE usual route of drives for strangers wishing to make a tour of the city is indicated by the following notices, in order, of some of the more interesting points and objects that may be in- cluded in a ride of two or three hours eastward or westward from the Capitol as a central point. The Eastward route is through the older part of the city, and embraces much of historic and scenic in- terest. The City Hall, fronting on Broad and Capitol, be- tween Tenth and Eleventh streets, is an imposing granite structure, five stories high, covering an area of 186 by 140 feet, and surmounted by a tower 180 feet high. The building was finished in 1893, at a cost of $1,500,000. Within it are located the various departments of the city government and the city courts. Access to the lofty tower, commanding a wide view, is from the fourth floor, which is reached by elevators. In the Council chamber there is, among others, a portrait of William Byrd, the founder of Richmond. The Davis Mansion, the war-time residence of the Confederate President, at the corner of Clay and Twelfth streets, is now a Confederate Museum and memorial building. The house is an old-fashioned residence, built many years before the war, when this ; CITY HALL, 42 Tours of the City. section of the city was more than now the abode of wealth and fashion. On the removal of the Confederate Government from Montgomery to Richmond the City Council bought ^SkiSfe f^9H ■LT| ■ 111 ':b ./jHH^yQ^Qffi ^* ll] '^""^ / % \ ' ,' v^rSfB lm}WS?^M rrp^^ifl****^^ '•aU J ^j&*\ ■ \ ■-'.-. ">- jyjajjy ■ Wt-Sl**' ■^9 JLSMfcL. - .-.v £*g A fc <3 o o g w Baptist— White 16 8,619 $ 78,776 12 667 6,379 Colored 18 12,042 28,053 19 374 3,8^3 Catholic— White 4 7,150 10,050 00 98 1,035 Colored 1 125 5 95 Disciples 4 1,712 13,589 63 100 826 Friends 1 51 500 00 2 15 German Evangelical . . . 1 275 3,600 00 30 215 Swedenborgian 1 17 1 4 4 3 359 418 11,050 00 3,307 00 38 34 315 Lutheran 276 Methodist— White 13 5,675 60,689 44 536 2,939 Colored .... 3 513 6,159 75 40 379 Presbyterian— White . . . 8 2,552 35,845 38 217 1,709 Colored . . . 1 44 435 65 7 55 Prot. Episcopal— White . . 10 3,302 72,005 09 286 2,499 Colored . 1 70 387 00 6 46 Total 89 42,934 $324,448 25 2,441 21,716 The following table gives the name and location of the leading churches : CHURCHES. BAPTIST. First — Broad and Twelfth streets. Second — Main and Sixth streets. Calvarv — Grace and Pine streets. 80 Churches. East-End— 1200 north Twenty-eighth street. Emmanuel— 607 north Fifth street. Fulton — Nicholson and Eighth streets. Grace-street — Grace and Foushee streets. Grove-avenue— 1009 Grove avenue. Leigh-street — Leigh and Twenty-fifth streets. Pine-street — Pine and Albemarle streets. Randolph-street — Randolph and Beverly streets. Venable-street — Yenable and Twenty-first streets. West View— 2001 west Cary street. Colored Baptist. First — Broad and College streets. Second — B}-rd and First streets. Ebenezer — Leigh and Judah streets. Fifth— 1400 west Cary street. Mt. Zion — Duval and St. John streets. Fifth-street — Fifth and Jackson streets. Brookland — 810 north Seventh street. Fourth-street — 719 north Fourth street. Fountain— 821 north Thirty-first street. Moore-street — 812 Moore street. Wesley Chapel — Richard and Seventeenth streets. Cedar-street— Cedar and James streets. Mount Tabor — Woodville. River View — 1404 Jacquelin street. Shiloh— Cedar and James streets. Mount Calvary — 112 Nicholson street. Sharon— 22 east Leigh street. Twentieth-street— 13 south Twentieth street. CATHOLIC. St. Peter's Cathedral — Grace and Eighth streets. St. Mary's German — Marshall and Fourth streets. St. Patrick's — Twenty-fifth, bet. Broad and Grace streets. Sacred Heart — Floyd avenue and Short street. Churches. 81 Colored Catholic. St. Joseph— 707 north First street. CHRISTIAN. Seventh-street— Grace and Seventh streets. Marshall-street— 910 west Marshall street. Third— 400 north Twenty-sixth street. EPISCOPAL, All Saints— Grace and Madison streets. Grace— Main and Foushee streets. Christ— Yenable and Twenty-second streets. Holy Trinity— north Laurel, near Main street. Monumental— Broad, bet. Twelfth and Thirteenth streets. St. Andrews— Laurel and Beverly streets. St, James— Marshall and Fifth streets. St. John's— Broad and Twenty-fourth streets. St. Luke's— Washington and Beverly streets. St. Mark's— Clay and First streets. St. Paul's— Grace and Ninth streets. Weddell-Memorial— 514 Denny street. Barton Heights— Barton avenue. Colored Episcopal. St. Philip's— Leigh and St. James streets. St. John's— 621 north Twenty-eighth street. JEWISH. Beth Ahaba— Eleventh, bet. Marshall and Clay streets. Keneseth Israel— 211 Mayo street. Beth Shaloom— Monticello Hall. Sir Moses Montefiore— Mayo, near Ross street. LUTHERAN. German Evangelical— Sixth, near Clay street. St. John's German— Marshall and Eighth streets, First English— Grace and Seventh streets. Trinity— Twenty-ninth and T streets. 82 Churches. METHODIST EPISCOPAL. Asbury — Lombardy, between Grove and Hanover streets. Broad-street — Broad and Tenth streets. Centenary— Grace, between Fourth and Fifth streets. ( "lay-street — Clay and Adams streets. Denny-street — Denny and Seventh streets. Laurel-street — Laurel and Albemarle stre.ets. Park Place — 700 west Franklin street. St. James — 2815 east Marshall street. Trinity — Broad and Twentieth streets. Union Station — Twenty-fourth and N streets. Oak Park — Barton Heights. Colored Methodist. Asbury— 812 north Twenty-fifth street. Leigh-street — Leigh, near Adams street. Third-street — 614 north Third street. Twenty-fifth— Twenty-fifth, between N and O streets. PRESBYTERIAN. First — Grace and Madison streets. Second — Fifth, near Main street. Third — Broad and Twenty-sixth streets. Church of Covenant — Harrison and Park avenue. Grace-street — Grace and Fourth streets. Hoge Memorial — Franklin and Nineteenth streets. Westminster — Gary and Strawberry streets. Colored Presbyterian. First — Monroe and Catharene streets. Universalist — 205 Mayo street. Unitarian — Belvidere Hall. Churches. 83 A notable characteristic of Richmond churches is seen in the fraternal relations prevailing between the different denominations. This kindly spirit has ex- isted from very early days. About the beginning of JEWISH SYNAGOGUE. this century, when there was yet no church in the upper part of the city, the people of that section met every Sunday in the Delegates' Hall in the Capitol for religious services, which were conducted alter- nately by ' ' Parsons ' ' Buchanan and Blair, the former 84 Churches. an Episcopal, the latter a Presbyterian clergyman. These two " Parsons," as they were familiarly called, i J 'i|b| Ipsir -/'tS^^^I BROAD-STREET METHODIST CHURCH. conducted on alternate Sundays the service ot their respective churches, the same congregation uniting Churches. 85 in both ; while the Abbe Dubois, a Catholic priest, performed the service of his church in the court-room, the present Senate Chamber. A recent instance of this fraternal spirit was seen in the public reception given to the Rev. Dr. M. D. Hoge in honor of the fiftieth anniversary of his pastorate of the Second Presbyterian church; on which occasion thousands of people, of all creeds and denominations, met and paid their respects to a revered clergyman and citizen. Many of the Richmond churches are architecturally handsome and attractive buildings. They are gene- rally commodious and well adapted to the purposes of their structure. Connected with and supported by the churches are many beneficial societies, orphan asylums, homes for aged and infirm women, and other charitable institutions. The Young' Ile?^ s Christian Association, Main and Sixth streets, has a large and influential membership, representing all denominations. The building is handsome and well arranged for its purposes, contain- ing a lecture-hall, class-rooms, and library. The educational department provides instruction in several useful branches, and a well-equipped gymnasium supplies a thorough course of physical training. The Colored Young Men' s Christian Association is located at Leigh and Third streets. SOCIAL AND MILITARY ORGANIZATIONS. THE social life of Richmond, outside the private circles of home, is illustrated in numerous civil and military organizations. Club life, which has developed here mainly since the war, now sub- serves large private and semi-public interests and there are numerous organizations of the kind, varied in character as in their objects. The largest and most prominent of purely social character are : The Westmoreland Club, 601 east Grace street. THE WESTMORELAND CLUB. Social and Military Organizations. 87 THE COMMONWEALTH CLUB. The Commonwealth Club, 401 west Franklin street. The Albemarle Club, 301 east Grace street. The Jefferson Club, 808 east Marshall street. The membership of these clubs includes very many of the leading business and professional men of the city- The Woman s Club, Franklin street, graced with the membership of many of the best ladies of Rich- mond, is devoted to literary as well as social functions. The Mozart Association, devoted to the cultivation of music, has its handsome music hall and theatre at 103 north Eighth street. The regular entertainments of the Association have long provided recreation and amusement for its large membership. Social and Military Organizations. Social and Military Organizations. 89 The Gesa?igverei?i Virginia, 309 north Seventh street, is the oldest social and artistic organization of the city, having- been founded in 1852 by German zeal for the cultivation of music. The society owns its handsome and spacious house and grounds, including a concert hall and garden. The Virginia Boat Chib flies its colors from a well- equipped club-house on Mayo's Island. Benevolent societies, more or less social in charac- ter, are numerous and varied. The list of these organizations, with their officers, fills more than ten pages of the City Directory. Military interests have their homes in the several armories, veteran camps, and like organizations. The Regimental Armory, at Seventh and Marshall streets, is the quarters of the First Regiment. In front of the armory are mounted several ancient stone cannon balls of huge calibre, that were brought from Constantinople many years ago. The Blues' Armory, Ninth and Cary streets, is the headquarters of the Richmond Light Infantry Blues, the oldest existing military organization in the State, organized in 1793. The command now forms a bat- talion of two companies. The Howitzer Armory, 616 north Eighth street, and the Cavalry Armory, 615 north Seventh street, are the headquarters of the artillery and cavalry com- mands of the city. Lee Camp of Coyifederate Veterans has its hall and quarters in a handsome building, 514 east Broad street, / Social and Military Organizations. 91 recently erected, and owned by the camp, which has a large and influential membership. George E. Pickett Camp has its quarters in Smith's Hall, on Fifth between Broad and Marshall streets. The camp is composed mainly of the veterans of Pickett's Division. Phil. Kearney Post, Grand Army of the Republic, meets in Wilkinson Hall, Ninth street. HOSPITALS AND CHARITIES. THE Old Dominion Hospital is attached to and under the control of the Medical College of Vir- ginia. An auxiliary Women's Board of Man- agers is composed of representatives from the various churches of the city. Connected with the hospital is a Training-School for Nurses, and one of the features of the institution is its Children's Ward. Provision is made for charity as well as pay patients. The Virginia Hospital, 1100-1104 Clay street, ad- joins the University College of Medicine, whose faculty constitute its medical and surgical staff. The equip- ment and furnishings of the hospital are of the most approved designs, and there is a Training-School for Nurses, with a two years' course of study and hospital practice. St. Luke 1 s Home for the Sick, Governor and Ross streets, is a private sanitarium, conducted by Dr. Hun- ter McGuire. The high reputation of the Home attracts patients from all parts of the country. In con- nection with it is a Training-School for Nurses. The Eye y Ear, Nose, and Throat Infirmary, 217 Governor street, was established 1879, for the treat- ment of diseases of those organs, especially for poor patients, to whom it has been a large and generous charity. In addition to its charity wards and private rooms it maintains an outdoor department for the poor. Hospitals and Charities. 93 The Retreat for the Sick, at 307 north Twelfth street, is a large and commodious hospital, under the able management of a board of lady managers. In addition to its resident physicians, the medical faculty of the city generally are allowed to attend their own patients in the Retreat. The Sheltering- Arms Hospital, 1008 east Clay street, is essentially a charity hospital, under the man- agement of the ladies who compose its board of direc- tors. The buildings (the old Grant residence) are large and handsome, and furnished with all needful appliances. The City Almshouse and Hospital, at the north end of Third street, is one of the handsomest public buildings of the city. In connection with it is a well- equipped Emergency Department, whose ambulances afford quick relief in case of accident in any part of the city. In addition to the hospitals named above are many semi-public charitable institutions, among which may be mentioned the City Missio?i> the Women's Chris- tian Association, Home for Aged and Infirm Women, Orphan Asylums, the Home for Incurables, the Foundling Hospital, the Maternity Hospital, the Mag- dalen Asylum, and the Home of the Little Sisters of the Poor, all of which provide support and comfort for the dependent and deserving. RAILROADS AND WATER LINES. DISTANCE FROM RICHMOND (BY RAIL) TO- Miles. Appomattox 123 Ashland 17 Atlanta, Ga. . . . . 549 Baltimore, Md 158 Boston, Mass 557 Bristol, Tenn 329 Charleston, S. C. . . . 457 Charlottesville .... 96 Chicago, 111 886 Cincinnati, 580 Danville 141 Fredericksburg .... 61 Jacksonville, Fla . . 731 Lexington 196 Luray 179 Miles. Lynchburg 125 Natural Bridge .... 196 New Orleans 1,044 New York 344 Newport News .... 75 Norfolk 104 Old Point 85 Petersburg 23 Raleigh, N. C 181 Roanoke 170 Staunton . 136 San Francisco, Cal. . . 3,253 Washington, D. C. . . 116 Williamsburg .... 48 White Sulphur Spr'gs . 227 The Chesapeake and Ohio Railway extends east- ward via Williamsburg to Newport News and Old Point, with steamer connections to Norfolk and Ports- mouth ; connecting at Norfolk with ocean steamers to New York and other Atlantic ports. Westward the line extends via Gordonsville, Charlottesville, Staun- ton, White Sulphur Springs, Huntington to Cincin- nati, O., and Louisville, Ky., with connections to all Western points. At intersecting points connections are made for Washington, Lynchburg, Winchester, and places in the Valley of Virginia. Railroads and Water Lines. 95 The James River Division of the Chesapeake and Ohio extends through the James River Valley via Lynchburg and Natural Bridge to Lexington and Clifton Forge, where it unites with the main line. The Southern Raihvay extends eastward to West Point, there connecting with steamers for Yorktown, Baltimore, New York, and other points. Southward the line extends via Danville, to Greensboro, Ra- leigh, Atlanta, Augusta, and points South and South- west, with connections to Western North Carolina, Tennessee, Alabama, Mississippi, Florida, Louisiana. The Atlantic Coast Line extends, via Petersburg and Weldon, N. C. , to Charleston, S. C, Savannah, Ga., Tampa, Fla., with connections for all points South and Southwest. The Norfolk and Western Railroad, via Petersburg, extends eastward to Norfolk ; westward, via Farm- ville, Lynchburg, and Roanoke, to Bristol, Knoxville, Chattanooga, and all points West and Southwest. The Seaboard Air- Line, via Petersburg and Wel- don, N. C, extends to Atlanta, with connections to Montgomery, Mobile, and New Orleans and points in Florida. The Richmond, Fredericksburg and Potomac Rail- road extends, via Ashland, Fredericksburg, Quantico, Alexandria, to Washington, connecting with the Penn- sylvania and other systems for all points North, East, and West. The Farmville and Powhala?i Railroad, via Chester and Moseley's Junction, extends to Farmville, there connecting with the Norfolk and Western. 96 Railroads and Water Lines. The regular lines of steamers on James river give water communication with Norfolk and other ports. The Virginia Navigatioji Company, plying between Richmond and Norfolk, touches at all river landings, including City Point, Jamestown, Newport News, and Old Point. The Old Dominion Steamship Company's ocean steamers ply regularly to New York, via Norfolk. For sailing days from Richmond see newspaper ad- vertisement. Connection with daily steamers from Norfolk is also made via Chesapeake and Ohio and Norfolk and Western railroads. The Clyde Steamship Company plies between Rich- mond and Philadelphia. BATTLEFIELDS. EVERY road out from Richmond leads to battle- fields. From and beyond Westham, on the River road, about six miles above the city, where the Dahlgreen raid was first met and re- pulsed, around to Harrison's Landing, the whole region was the arena of conflicts of every kind during, the late war, ranging from skirmishes of raiding or scouting parties to the encounters of pitched battle, in which more than a hundred thousand men were engaged. Taking them in order of location, the most important of these battlefields are — Yellow Tavern, Mechanicsville, Ellerson's Mill, Gaines' Mill, Cold Har- bor, Savage Station, Frazier's Farm, Seven Pines, Fort Harrison, Malvern Hill. The distance from the city to these locations varies from five to nearly twenty miles, . Mechanicsville being the nearest, and Malvern Hill the most distant of those mentioned. Besides .these fields of pitched battle, nearly every place within a zone of thirty or more miles around the city has its story of raid or skirmish. On the other side of James river the lines of defence and attack extended to and ten miles beyond Petersburg, distant twenty-three miles from Richmond. Along these lines there was much severe fighting before Grant succeeded in break- ing through at Petersburg, April 2, 1865, compelling the evacuation of Richmond, and resulting in the sur- render of Lee's army a week later at Appomattox. 98 Battlefields. Remnants and traces of the interior line of fortifica- tions are still to be seen in some places near the city; and along" the lines of investment, as well as on many of the battlefields, the ground is yet scarred and fur- rowed with the lines of earthworks thrown up by the contending armies. Old soldiers visiting the scenes of battle often recognize locations memorable in their experience of those days; but in many places the aspect of the country is greatly altered, either by the cutting away of forest or by the growth of woods over former fields and open country. The devastations of war have been largely repaired by the improvements of later years, and cultivated farms and orchards now replace wasted fields that were the camping and fight- ing-ground of great armies. The first, in order of time, of the important battles fought before Richmond was that of — Seven Pines, or Fair Oaks. — This battlefield is about eight miles out, and reached by electric railway from the city. The battle fought there May 31, 1S62, was a severe and bloody contest, in which the Confeder- ates, under Gen. J. E. Johnston, attacked a part of General McClellan's left wing that had been advanced across the Chickahominy, and was partially isolated. Their position was rendered the more precarious by a sudden rise in the river that separated them from the main body of their army. The Confederate attack failed to accomplish its object, which was the capture or destruction of this advanced corps. The battle was partially renewed the next morning, June 1, but without Battlefields. 99 decided results for either side. The losses of both armies were severe, that of the Federals being about five thousand and of the Confederates a little over six thousand. General Johnston having been wounded in the first day's fighting, and disabled for active duty, the command devolved on Gen. G. W. Smith. The day after the battle Gen. R. E. Lee was ap- pointed to the command of the army. He immediately commenced preparations for the subsequent campaign that drove McClellan from his lines before the city. This campaign is commonly known as the Seven Days' battles of June and July, 1862, the initial fight of which was at — Mechanicsville, on the pike of that name, about five miles from Richmond. General Lee's scheme of operations opened with an attack on the right wing of McClellan' s line of investment, which had been ex- tended to this point, and strongly fortified. The fight was opened June 26, 1862, by A. P. Hill's division, which crossed the Chickahominy at Meadow Bridge, a short distance above, followed by Longstreet and D. H. Hill, who crossed at Mechanicsville. The contest at this point was but slight, the Federal ad- vance retiring to their works on Beaver Dam creek. The design was for a co-operative movement, in which Jackson's corps, just arrived from the Valley, should simultaneously attack from the other side of Mechan- icsville; but, being delayed by ignorance of the roads and obstacles encountered on the march, Jackson did not arrive on the field till the next day. Hill's troops, 100 Battlefields. expecting every moment to hear the sound of Jack- son's guns on the enemy's flank, advanced through Mechanicsville and attacked the strongly entrenched lines around Ellerson's Mill, on Beaver Dam creek, the approach to which was over a plain and marsh, swept by a heavy fire of all arms. The evening of the 26th was spent in repeated assaults that ended in disas- trous repulse, the Confederates losing eighteen hundred men, while the Federal loss was not more than three hundred. The position was too strong to be carried by direct assault, and could only be turned by the road over which Jackson was advancing. Fitz John Porter, the commander of this wing of the Federal army, being apprised of Jackson's approach on his flank and rear, retired from Beaver Dam creek during that night and the early morning of the next day. His new position was east of Powhite creek, about six miles below Mechanicsville, and along the lines of Games' Mill and Cold Harbor, which are about nine miles from Richmond by direct roads. The battle fought here June 27, 1862, was one ot the most severely contested actions of the war. The natural strength of the Federal line was improved by fortifica- tions, while the crests of the position were crowned with artillery. A. P. Hill, still in advance, first en- countered the enemy about noon, and became hotly engaged in a fierce struggle, in which he was sup- ported by Longstreet's and D. H. Hill's troops. The length of Jackson's line of march delayed his arrival and junction with Hill and Longstreet. As soon as his Battlefields. 101 troops could be placed in position a general assault along the whole line carried the Federal works and forced Porter's retreat to the south side of the Chicka- hominy, where he effected his junction with the rest of McClellan's army. The fighting during the day was of the most desperate character, and resulted in large losses on both sides. Lee's forces amounted to about 47,000, against 35,000 of Porter's command defending their strong positions. Night put an end to the contest, and prevented reaping the full results of the Confederate victory. On the next morning, the 28th, there were no Federal troops in Lee's front north of the Chickahominy. McClellan took up his line of retreat to James river, and concealing his intentions by skillful dispositions, gained a day's march before his rear was again assaulted at Savage Station. His strategy has been much criticised because he did not break through the comparatively small force left in front of Richmond, and attempt the capture of the city. Savage Station, on the York River railroad, was the scene of the third conflict of the Seven Days' bat- tles, when, on the evening of June 29, 1862, Magru- der's division attacked the rear of the retreating Federal army. Other troops, delayed by obstacles on the march, did not arrive in time to co-operate with Magruder, and the action was without decisive results. An immense quantity of stores was here destroyed by the Federals, who also abandoned their hospitals with twenty-five hundred sick and wounded men. 102 Battlefields. Frazier* s Farm, or Glendale, just below Savage Station, was the scene of the next conflict, June 30, 1862, with the rear of McClellan's army, the result of which effectually secured their retreat to James river. This fight was the crisis of McClellan's retreat, the Confederate forces being now within striking distance of him in the rear and on his flank, while miles of his trains still blocked the roads over which his army must march. The difficulty of operating in the heavily- wooded and swampy region, whose roads and positions were imperfectly known, prevented any combined assault by the Confederate forces,. and nearly the whole of the fighting fell upon Longstreet's and A. P. Hill's commands, who were opposed by the divisions of Kearney, McCall, Sedgwick, and Hooker. The bat- tle was severely contested, and the Federal forces maintained their position till night, covering the pas- sage of their trains to James river. During the night and the early morning of the next day the Federal army retired to Malvern Hill, where it was concen- trated in a strong defensive position. Malvern Hill is on James river, about twenty miles from Richmond. The battle fought there July 1, 1862, was the last of the Seven Days' fighting that ended McClellan's campaign against the city. The position is one of great natural strength, and skillfully defended as it was by heavy masses of infantry and artillery crowning the heights, aided by the fire of gunboats from the river, it proved impregnable to such assaults as Lee's worn and depleted lines could Battlefields. 103 make against it. Owing to ignorance of the roads and topography, and the dense forests which impeded communication, the line of attack was not formed until late in the afternoon, and the same causes pre- vented a proper concert of action among the attacking troops. Some of the assaults were of the most des- perate and determined character, but they failed to break the Federal line. The battle continued till after 9 o'clock at night, without decisive results, beyond securing McClellan's retreat. When the firing ceased several fragments of Confederate commands were holding their ground within a short distance of the Federal lines near the Crew House. By common consent an informal truce was established, and numer- ous parties from both armies, with lanterns and stretch- ers, wandered over the field seeking for the unfortunate wounded. The next morning McClellan's army had disappeared, having made its way to Harrison's Land- ing, which position was strongly fortified, and, by the aid of gunboats on the river, made secure against attack. General Lee remained in its front for some days, reconnoitering and offering battle, but in vain. On the 8th of July his army was withdrawn to the vicinity of Richmond. The Confederate losses in the Seven Days' battles amounted to about 17,000 ; the Federal loss was about 15,000. In summing up the results, General Lee's report says: "The siege of Richmond was raised, and the object of a campaign which had been proscuted, after months of preparation, at an enormous expendi- 104 Battlefields. ture of men and money, was completely frustrated. More than 10,000 prisoners, 52 pieces of artillery, and 35,000 stand of small arms were captured. The stores and supplies of every description which fell into our hands were great in amount and value, but small in comparison with those destroyed by the enemy." Cold Harbor was again the arena of a great battle in Grant's campaign of 1864. In this battle the posi- tions of the respective armies were about the reverse of those of 1862, when the Federals were on the defen- sive on this line. In 1864 Grant assaulted Lee's lines in the early morning of June 3d, and suffered the most disastrous repulse of the war. His army attacked along a line of six miles, and was repulsed with terri- ble slaughter at all points, losing thirteen thousand men in less than an hour. The defeat and loss inflicted were so demoralizing that the troops could not be urged to a renewal of the assault when ordered. This was the last of the battles fought by Grant on the north side of James river, before he crossed that stream for the siege of Petersburg. \ellozv Tavern, about seven miles from Richmond, is reached by the Brooke and other roads through the northern suburbs of the city. The battle fought here May 11, 1864, defeated Sheridan's raid and saved Richmond from capture. Sheridan had been sent by Grant with 10,000 cavalry to interpose between Spot- sylvania and Richmond, break up the communications, and do all the damage possible in the rear of Lee's army then engaged in the battles of Spotsylvania. Battlefields. 105 J. E. B. Stuart followed him with about three thou- sand cavalry, and by hard marching succeeded in throwing the bulk of his force across Sheridan's route at Yellow Tavern, while a small brigade that had advanced on the road behind Sheridan operated in his rear. The battle was desperately contested, and Stuart succeeded in holding Sheridan nearly all day, while infantry could be brought from below Richmond to man the fortifications around the city. When Sheri- dan finally broke through the depleted lines of cavalry opposing him, he deemed it prudent not to attempt the capture of the city by carrying the fortifications, around which he made a long circuit and rejoined Grant's army, after an absence of more than two weeks. The most serious result of the battle was the irreparable loss of General Stuart, who was mortally wounded, and died the next day. A monument on the field, near the Telegraph road, marks the spot where he fell. Fort Harrison, on the New Market road, near the river, about eight miles below Richmond, was assaulted and captured by the Federal troops September 29, 1864. The loss of this position, with its garrison and fifteen guns, was a serious danger to the Richmond lines. An assault at the same time on Fort Gilmer, about a mile northward, was repulsed with heavy loss to the Federals. An attempt the next day, Septem- ber 30th, to recover Fort Harrison resulted in disas- trous failure, and the position remained permanently in possession of its captors, necessitating the read- 106 Battlefields. justment of the Confederate lines in that quarter. Fort Harrison was the only point on the Richmond line of fortifications, north of James river, that was captured and held by Grant's forces during 1 the cam- paign that ended in the evacuation of the city. Chafiri s Bluff, on the river, a short distance from Fort Harrison, was a strongly fortified position, com- manding the river and the land approaches around it. A mile or so up the river, on the opposite side, is — Drewry's Bluff, or Fort Darling, whose fortifica- tions repulsed a naval attack May 15, 1862, by the Monitor, Galena, and other gunboats, that had been ordered to proceed to Richmond and shell the city into a surrender. Two years later, in May, 1864:, But- ler's troops made an attack on the lines to the right of Drevvry's Bluff. Being repulsed, he withdrew to his fortifications around Bermuda Hundred, where, in the language of General Grant's report, he was as safe and harmless as if he had been in a bottle strongly corked. Dutch Gap and the Howlett House Battery are a few miles below Chafin's Bluff, on the river. The Dutch Gap canal is cut through a narrow neck of land, Farrar's Island, around which the river makes a long sweep.' It was undertaken in 1864, with the object of avoiding the Confederate batteries at Hew- lett's, opposite the other end of the island, but did not succeed as a military project. After the war it was completed, and is now regularly used by vessels ply- ing the river. These positions were held until the Battlefields. 107 evacuation of the city. The entrance of the Federal troops into the city, April 3, 1865, was over the Osborne, Darby town, and Charles City roads. National Cemeteries are located at Seven Pines, Cold Harbor, and on the Williamsburg road a mile or so below the city. LIB BY PRISON. (Removed to Chicago.) INDEX. African, First, church . ** Allan House 89 Armories Barton Heights 14 Battlefields 97-107 Bell-House ?0 Belle Isle °'_ Blues, Richmond L. I ' Business Interests Byrd, William • • Camp Lee 12 100 Capitol Square, buildings and monuments 22-39 Capitol disaster Car-lines Chafin's Bluff Chamber of Commerce 53 Chimborazo Park n * 49 Churches 79_85 Church Hill 16 City Hall Clay Statue Clubs Cold Harbor Cold Harbor, second battle 104 Colleges and schools ' Colleges, Medical Commonwealth Club Davis Mansion . , . Distances by rail ■ 30 80 100 / 1 9, 61 10 94 110 Index. Drewry's Bluff .... 10G Dutch Gap IOC Educational . . . . . 76 Electric railways . 12-14 Ellerson's Mill 100 Evacuation Fire 52 Fai r Grounds . . 63 Ford's Hotel 13 Franklin street 63 Frazier s Farm 102 Fori Harrison 105 Gamble's Hill 11, 56 Gaines' Mill 100 Gesangverein Virginia 89 Harvietown 59 Hill, A. P., Monument 20, 66 Historic Synopsis 6 Hollywood Cemetery . . . .... 57 Hospitals and Charities ...... 92 Howitzer Statue . . . 63 Howitzer Armory .... 89 Iron Works 70 Jackson Statue 30 Jefferson Hotel 64 Jefferson Park . . 45 Lafayette, Bust of 26 Lafayette in Richmond 51 Land Office . 24 Lee <