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 rvo. 4. 
 
 VEGETABLES and VEGETABLE COOKING. 
 
 MRS. EMMA P. EWWG. 
 
 Author aj " Suup and Snap Making," "Bread and Bread Making, 
 "Salad and Salad Making,' 
 
 CHICAGO: 
 
 FAIRBANKS, PALMER & CO. 
 1884. 
 

 /{V* 
 
 COPYKIGHT BT 
 
 Fairbanks, Palmer & Co. 
 1884. 
 
 Printed and Bound 
 
 by 
 
 CHAS. N. TRIVESS, Chicago. 
 
Table of Contents. 
 
 PAGE, 
 
 Artichokes - 8-9 
 
 Asparagus - 9-10 
 
 Beets -- 10 
 
 Beans -------- u 
 
 Brussels Sprouts ----- 12 
 
 Brocoli - - - - - - - 12 
 
 Borecole 12 
 
 Cauliflower 12 
 
 Cabbage ------- 13-14 
 
 Celery -------- I4 
 
 Carrots ------- 14-15 
 
 Corn -- -___-_ 15-16 
 
 Cress -- 16 
 
 Cucumbers ------- jy 
 
 Dressings for Vegetables - 6-8 
 
 Endive -------- 18 
 
 Egg-Plant ------ x8 
 
 Greens -------- 18 
 
 Hominy ------- 19 
 
 Kale - ------- 19 
 
 Kohlrabi:- ------ 19 
 
* contents. 
 
 Lettuce - - - - - - - 18 
 
 Mushrooms --.__- 19-20 
 Macaroni ------- 20-2 r 
 
 Okra ------- 21 
 
 Oyster-Plant 34 
 
 Onions ------- 21-22 
 
 Parsley - 22 
 
 Pumpkins - 23 
 
 Parsnips ------- 23-24 
 
 Peas -------- 23 
 
 Potatoes ---____ 24-32 
 
 Rice ------- 33 
 
 Sweet Potatoes ------ 32 
 
 Spinach ------- ^z 
 
 Salsify -------- 33-34 
 
 Sea Kale ------- 34 
 
 Squash -_--__. 37-38 
 
 Sauce for Vegetables - 6-8 
 
 Seasonings for Vegetables - 5 
 
 Time Table for Vegetables - 5 
 
 Turnips - 34-35 
 
 Tomatoes 35-37 
 
VEGETABLES AND VEGETABLE COOKING. 
 
 PRELIMINARY REMARKS. 
 
 Market gardening is becoming so important an 
 industry that the production of vegetables is rapidly 
 on the increase. Many different kinds are already in 
 genera: cultivation, others are being introduced to 
 popular notice, and nearly all of them when cooked 
 according to the best methods, are highly relished by 
 a majority of people. 
 
 The cooking of vegetables is, however, so imper- 
 fectly understood, that instead of an attractive variety 
 of them being served regularly at the average dinner 
 table, it is not infrequently the case that the vegetable 
 family is represented there, day after day, by the potato 
 alone — and that always dressed in the same unvarying 
 style. 
 
 The general rules applicable to the cooking of meats, 
 etc., are also applicable to the cooking of vegetables, 
 and they can only be cooked according to the seven 
 primary methods, namely : Roasting, Baking, Boiling, 
 Steaming, Stewing, Frying and Broiling; but the meth- 
 
4 COOKERY MANUAL. 
 
 ods of seasoning, combining and serving may be varied 
 so as to produce an almost limitless number of dishes 
 with distinctive names. 
 
 A difference of opinion exists in regard to the tem- 
 perature of the water in which different vegetables 
 should be put to cook ; but a safe general rule to 
 follow, until the question is settled beyond all contro- 
 versy, is : — To put all fresh or green vegetables in 
 slightly salted boiling water, and let them cook gently 
 until tender; — and to put all dried, leguminous vegeta- 
 bles, such as beans, peas, etc , in cold water, and after 
 it reaches the boiling point, allow them to simmer 
 gently until done. 
 
 Dried vegetables should be well soaked in cold water 
 before they are cooked, and most green vegetables are 
 improved by being subjected to the same process, — 
 especially is this the case with potatoes, turnips, pars- 
 nips, salsify, etc., all of which become discolored, 
 when pared or scraped, unless immediately laid in cold 
 water. 
 
 Foj the sake of preserving them in handsome shape 
 vegetables are often served under- done ; but are more 
 frequently sent to table an over-cooked, insipid mess. 
 In either case they are unpalatable, indigestible and 
 innutritious. They should always be cooked thorough- 
 ly, but never so much as to render them mushy, or 
 cause them to tumble to pieces. 
 
 The length of time required for cooking any variety 
 of vegetable depends greatly on its maturity or age, and 
 varies considerably at different seasons. The time in 
 
VEGETABLES. 
 
 which various vegetables will cook is approximated in 
 the table here given ; but the true, and only safe, rule 
 is to test them occasionally during the process of 
 cooking. 
 
 TIME TABLE. 
 
 Giving the approximate length of time required for 
 cooking different vegetables : 
 
 30 Minutes. — Asparagus, corn, macaroni, mush- 
 rooms, peas, boiled potatoes, tomatoes, lettuce. 
 
 45 Minutes. — Young beets, carrots, parsnips, tur- 
 nips, baked potatoes, rice. 
 
 One Hour. — Artichokes, new cabbage, string beans, 
 brussels sprouts, cauliflower, greens, salsify, new onions, 
 winter squash. 
 
 Two Hours. — Winter cabbage, carrots, parsnips, 
 turnips and onions. 
 
 Three to Five Hours. — Old beets. 
 
 Five to Eight Hours. — Dried beans, dried peas, 
 hominy, etc. 
 
 The flavor of vegetables can be very perfectly devel- 
 oped by the addition of suitable condiments, at the 
 proper stage of their preparation for the table, and 
 may, by judicious seasoning be modified to suit every 
 taste. 
 
 Melted butter, drawn butter, clear sauce, white 
 sauce, brown sauce, tomato sauce, and several salad 
 dressings are appropriate for serving with different veg- 
 etables, or with the same vegetable prepared in differ- 
 ent ways, and sugar, lemon juice, vinegar, salt, pepper 
 
w COOKERY MANUAL. 
 
 and numerous other spices are suitable seasonings fo 
 many of them. 
 
 It is, however, impossible to give a specific recipe, 
 of any practical value, in regard to the proper quantity 
 of seasoning or dressing to be used with different veg- 
 etables, as some people like very little and others a 
 great deal, consequently the matter must in a great 
 measure, be left to individual judgment. 
 
 DRAWN BUTTER. 
 
 Cook together one ounce of flour and two ounces of 
 butter — or about two measures of flour to one measure 
 of butter — stirring meanwhile, until well mixed, add 
 one pint of water or broth, boil until the flour is per- 
 fectly cooked and the sauce smooth, which will be in 
 from two to five minutes, then season to taste with salt 
 and pepper. 
 
 CLEAR SAUCE. 
 
 Cut meat, or meat and bone in small pieces, cover 
 with cold water, add a little salt, simmer three or four 
 hours, strain, and remove the grease. 
 
 WHITE SAUCE. 
 
 Cook together one ounce of flour and two ounces ot 
 butter, add one pint of sweet cream or milk, simmer 
 gently five minutes, and season to taste with salt and 
 pepper. When desired acid, add lemon juice or vin- 
 egar just before serving. 
 
VEGETABLES. 7 
 
 BROWN SAUCE. 
 
 Cook together one ounce of flour and two ounces of 
 butter, stirring constantly, until a dark brown, add a 
 pint of cold water or broth, cook, and season to taste 
 with salt and pepper. By browning meat and making 
 it into broth, a rich coloring can be obtained for brown 
 sauce. 
 
 TOMATO SAUCE. 
 
 Stew a quart of tomatoes in a pint of any simple 
 broth, or in their own juice, until very soft, rub through 
 a sieve, and season to taste with salt and red pepper. 
 If too acid, add a quarter of a teaspooonful of sugar. 
 
 FRENCH SALAD DRESSING. 
 
 To a half teaspoonful of made mustard add olive 
 oil, stirring constantly until thick; then thin by adding 
 vinegar in like manner; and thus alternate until the 
 Tequired quantity is obtained, when season to taste 
 with salt and pepper. A French dressing, without 
 mustard, is made by mixing together four teaspoonfuls 
 of vinegar, half a teaspoonful of salt and one-eighth 
 of a teaspoonful of pepper, and when used, adding 
 olive oil. 
 
 CREAM DRESSING. 
 
 Cook together, two minutes, an ounce each of flour 
 and butter, add a pint of sweet cream, and season 
 with salt and pepper. 
 
8 COOKERY MANUAL. 
 
 COOKED MAYONNAISE DRESSING. 
 
 To each table spoonful of boiling vinegar used, 
 add the well beaten yolk of an egg, and cook in a bowl 
 set in a pan of boiling water, till stiff. Remove from 
 the fire, add an ounce of butter, and stir until cool and 
 perfectly stiff. After it becomes cold season with salt, 
 pepper and mustard, and thin to the required consis- 
 tency with sweet cream. 
 
 VEGETABLES. 
 
 ARTICHOKE SALAD. 
 
 There are two kinds of artichokes — the Jerusalem 
 and the Globe — both of which are occasionally served 
 as salads. The former is a tuber, similar in appear- 
 ance to a potato, and the latter a plant resembling a 
 thistle, with a large scaly head, the under part only of 
 which is edible. When eaten raw they are dressed 
 according to taste, with melted butter or oil, and salt, 
 pepper, mustard, vinegar, etc. 
 
 BOILED ARTICHOKES. 
 
 Wash and scrape Jerusalem artichokes, boil till ten- 
 der, drain, and serve with drawn butter or white sauce, 
 or mash fine and season with salt and pepper. 
 
VEGETABLES. 
 SCALLOPED ARTICHOKES. 
 
 Boil and mash Jerusalem artichokes, season with 
 salt and pepper, put in shells, or in a baking dish, 
 sprinkle with bread crumbs, moisten with butter, and 
 brown in the oven. 
 
 FRIED ARTICHOKES. 
 
 Boil Globe artichokes, remove the chokes, divide the 
 bottoms in pieces the size desired, dip in beaten egg 
 and crumbs, and fry in butter or drippings. 
 
 BOILED ASPARAGUS. 
 
 Wash, tie in small bundles, cook till tender and 
 serve on toast, with melted butter, or white sauce. 
 
 ASPARAGUS PEAS. 
 
 Wash, cut in small pieces, simmer till tender in just 
 enough of water to cover, thicken slightly with flour 
 and butter stirred together, add a little sweet cream, 
 and season with salt and pepper. 
 
 ASPARAGUS ROLLS. 
 
 Cut cold boiled asparagus very fine, mix with beaten 
 egg in a sauce pan, thicken with a little flour and milk 
 stirred together, season with salt and pepper, pour hot 
 into rolls from which the crumb has been removed 
 and serve; or pour on toast and serve. 
 
10 COOKERY MANUAL. 
 
 ASPARAGUS PUDDING. 
 
 Mix together half a pint of asparagus peas, four 
 eggs, a table spoonful of finely minced ham, an ounce 
 of butter, two table spoonfuls of flour, and milk suffi- 
 cient to make a thick batter. Pour into a buttered 
 pudding mould, steam two hours, and serve with drawn 
 butter. 
 
 BOILED BEETS. 
 
 Wash, boil till tender, rub off the skin, slice and sea- 
 son with salt, pepper and melted butter. 
 
 STEWED BEETS. 
 
 Wash, parboil, rub off the skin, cut in slices, put in 
 a stew pan, cover with milk, add a lump of butter 
 rolled in flour, simmer till tender, and season with salt 
 and pepper. 
 
 BAKED BEETS. 
 
 Bake in a moderate oven till tender, rub off the 
 skins, baste with melted butter and lemon juice, put in 
 the oven a few minutes, and serve hot. 
 
 BEET SALAD. 
 
 Mix equal quantities of boiled sliced beet and boiled 
 sliced potato, and serve with cream dressing; or mix 
 with onions, celery, endive and other vegetables, and 
 serve with a French dressing. 
 
VEGETABLES. 11 
 
 STRING BEANS. 
 
 Remove the strings, put the beans in a small quan- 
 tity of water — just enough to cover them — simmer 
 gently till tender, drain, and serve with melted butter, 
 or white sauce. Or break in small pieces, cook in a 
 small quantity of water, let the water evaporate as the 
 beans become sufficiently cooked, then add sweet 
 cream, and season with salt and pepper. 
 
 SHELLED BEANS. 
 
 Put the beans in just sufficient water to cover them, 
 stew gently till tender, add a little sweet cream, and 
 season with salt and pepper; or omit the cream, and 
 season with salt, pepper and butter. 
 
 DRIED BEANS. 
 
 Soal^ put to cook in a liberal supply of cold water, 
 which must be poured off as soon as it boils and 
 enough of cold water to barely cover the beans be 
 added, salt lightly, cook gently until very tender, but 
 not falling to pieces, and season with salt, pepper and 
 butter; or serve with white, or brown sauce. 
 
 BAKED BEANS. 
 
 Put a piece of salt pork and a little molasses in a 
 bean pot, or a deep stone jar, and fill to within three 
 inches of the top with beans that have been boiled 
 until the skins will crack when exposed to cold air, 
 
12 COOKERY MANUAL. 
 
 and pour in enough of the water in which they were 
 cooked to cover them. Place the lid on the jar. set it 
 in the oven and bake from 6 to 12 hours — adding water 
 occasionally, if needed. The quantity of pork and 
 molasses can be varied to suit the taste, but the usual 
 proportions are a pound of pork and two table spoon- 
 fuls of molasses to a gallon of beans. The beans may 
 be enriched with a small piece of butter instead of 
 pork, or by adding a cup of sweet cream an hour be- 
 fore they finish baking. 
 
 BORECOLE OR KALE. 
 
 Cook and serve the same as cabbage. 
 
 BRUSSELS SPROUTS. 
 
 Boil till tender, drain, put in a sauce pan with a little 
 melted butter, season with salt and pepper, simmer a 
 few minutes, and serve on buttered toast; or serve plain. 
 
 BROCOLI. 
 
 Brocoli bears such a close resemblance to cauli- 
 flower that it can scarcely be distinguished from it. 
 Cook and serve in the same manner 
 
 CAULIFLOWER. 
 
 Wash, trim, boil gently until tender, drain carefully, 
 put in a vegetable dish and dress with drawn butter, 
 or white sauce. The white sauce may be flavored with 
 Parmesan cheese, if liked. 
 
VEGETABLES. 13 
 
 BOILED CABBAGE. 
 
 Trim, wash and divide each head into quarters or 
 eights boil till tender, drain, press out the water, and 
 serve with white sauce or drawn butter. 
 
 STEWED CABBAGE. 
 
 Slice or chop the cabbage, stew until tender, but not 
 soft, drain, add a little sweet cream or milk, simmer 
 ten minutes, and season with salt and pepper. 
 
 COLD SLAW. 
 
 Slice crisp, firm cabbage very fine, dress with sugar, 
 salt and vinegar ; or serve with a French, or cooked 
 mayonnaise dressing. 
 
 HOT SLAW. 
 
 Slice or chop cabbage fine, stew till tender, season 
 with salt, pepper and butter, add a little vinegar and 
 serve. 
 
 SOUR KROUT. 
 
 Stew in its own liquor till tender, or fry until slightly 
 brown, in fryings from bacon, or salt pork. 
 
 BAKED CABBAGE. 
 
 Chop boiled cabbage fine, add milk and beaten egg, 
 season with salt and pepper, put in a buttered baking 
 

 14 COOKERY MANUAL. 
 
 dish, cover with seasoned bread crumbs and bake 
 brown. Cold boiled cabbage can be used in this way 
 advantageously. 
 
 KOL-CANNON. 
 
 Chop boiled cabbage fine, add an equal quantity of 
 mashed potato, moisten with milk, season with salt 
 and pepper, mix together thoroughly, and serve hot. 
 
 STEWED CELERY. 
 
 Cut in inch pieces, simmer until tender in a little 
 water, add sweet cream, season to taste, and serve ; or 
 pour over slices of toasted bread and serve hot. 
 
 BOILED CARROTS. 
 
 Wash, scrape, boil till tender, drain, season with but- 
 ter, salt and pepper ; or slice, and serve with white 
 sauce. 
 
 STEWED CARROTS. 
 
 Parboil, drain, slice, put in a stew pan with a little 
 broth or milk, simmer till tender, season with salt, 
 pepper and chopped parsley. 
 
 FRIED CARROTS. 
 
 Parboil, slice, fry in butter till brown on both sides, 
 season with salt, pepper and chopped parsley. Or 
 
VEGETABLES. 15 
 
 boil till tender, mash, season to taste, make into cakes 
 and fry brown. 
 
 SAVORY CARROTS. 
 
 Put in a stew pan three ounces of butter, a table- 
 spoonful of flour, a teaspoonful of minced parsley, half 
 a tablespoonful of minced onion, a grating of nutmeg, 
 and salt and pepper to taste, add a quart of sliced car- 
 rots, cook gently-shaking the stew pan frequently — 
 until the contents are a light brown color, then add a 
 pint of broth, cover closely, and simmer until very 
 tender. 
 
 BOILED CORN. 
 
 Husk, boil till tender, and serve on the cob ; or 
 cut the corn from the cob, season with salt, pepper and 
 butter, and serve in a heated dish. 
 
 STEWED CORN. 
 
 Cut the corn from the cob, scrape off the pulp and 
 eyes, put in a stew pan with a half pint of water to 
 each pint of corn, cover closely, stew gently till thor- 
 oughly cooked — stirring occasionly to prevent the corn 
 sticking to the pan and burning — season to taste with 
 salt and pepper, add a little cream or butter, and 
 serve. 
 
16 COOKERY MANUAL. 
 
 CORN OYSTERS. 
 
 Split each row of kernels through the middle while 
 on the cob, shave off the corn in thin slices, and scrape 
 out the pulp and eyes. To the corn from each dozen 
 ears add the white of three eggs beaten to a stiff froth 
 and three tablespoonfuls of flour, season with salt and 
 pepper, and fry in spoonfuls in hot fat on a griddle, or 
 in a spider. 
 
 CORN FRITTERS. 
 
 Beat together till smooth and light, one teacupful of 
 sifted flour, one egg yolk, and half a teacupful of milk, 
 stir in gradually half a teacupful of milk, and two tea- 
 cupfuls of corn prepared as for oysters, add the white 
 of an egg beaten to a froth, season to taste with salt, 
 and fry in hot fat. 
 
 CORN PUDDINO. 
 
 To a quart of corn prepared as for oysters, add a 
 quart of milk, four eggs, a teaspoonful of salt and a 
 little pepper. Mix well together, pour into a buttered 
 dish, and bake. 
 
 CRESS. 
 
 The various cresses are usually eaten raw, and 
 dressed according to individual taste. Mixed with let- 
 tuce and other salad plants they give them an agree- 
 ble pungency. 
 
VEGETABLES, 17 
 
 CUCUMBER SALAD. 
 
 Pare the cucumbers, lay on ice or in cold water half 
 an hour, slice thin, and dress with salt, pepper and 
 vinegar. Cucumbers lose their crispness by soaking 
 in vinegar, and should be served as soon as dressed. 
 Their flavor is improved for most tastes by the addition 
 of a few slices of onion. 
 
 STEWED CUCUMBERS. 
 
 Pare, split in pieces lengthwise, scrape out the seeds, 
 boil five minutes, drain, cover with water, simmer un- 
 til tender, thicken with flour and butter, and season 
 with salt and pepper A few slices of onion can be 
 added if liked. 
 
 FRIED CUCUMBERS. 
 
 Pare, cut in slices of equal thickness, wipe dry, roll 
 in flour, fry brown in hot fat, season with salt and 
 pepper. 
 
 STUFFED CUCUMBERS. 
 
 Cut off one end of each cucumber, scoop out the 
 seeds, fill with a mixture of seasoned bread crumbs, 
 egg yolk, minced onion and parsley, replace the ends, 
 lay the cucumbers on thin slices of bacon in a drip- 
 ping pan, pour in a little water, dust with salt, pepper 
 and flour, bake in a quick oven, and serve with brown 
 sauce. 
 
18 COOKERY MANUAL. 
 
 FRIED EGG-PLANT. 
 
 Cut in slices half an inch in thickness, lay in salted 
 water an hour, wipe each slice dry, dip in flour or fine 
 corn meal, season with pepper and fry brown in a little 
 hot fat, or dip in beaten egg, then in fine crumbs, 
 and fry in hot lard. 
 
 BAKED EGG-PLANT. 
 
 Pare, cut in pieces, boil until tender, drain, mash, 
 season with salt and pepper, put in a baking dish cover 
 with bread crumbs moistened with butter, and bake in 
 a hot oven. 
 
 ENDIVE. 
 
 Endive is generally served raw as an ornamental 
 addition to salads, but may be stewed in cream, brown 
 gravy or butter, seasoned very lightly, and served hot. 
 
 LETTUCE. 
 
 Lettuce is usually served raw as a salad, and is 
 dressed according to taste, with salt, sugar and vine- 
 gar, or with French dressing. It is excellent cooked 
 and served as greens, or as endive. 
 
 GREENS. 
 
 Brussels sprouts, cabbage sprouts, collards, borecole, 
 endive, spinach, dandelions, young beets, mustard, let- 
 tuce, narrow dock, corn salad, purslane, nettles and a 
 

 VEGETABLES. 19 
 
 large number of other edible plants and weeds are 
 cooked and served in a similar manner under the gene- 
 ral designation of "greens." Trim carefully, wash 
 thoroughly, cook till tender, drain in a colander, and 
 season to taste with salt, pepper, butter, vinegar, etc. 
 
 HOMINY. 
 
 Wash, put to cook in cold water slightly salted, and 
 boil slowly for eight hours, or until tender. 
 
 KOHLRABI. 
 
 Cook and serve the same as turnip. 
 
 KALE. 
 
 (See Borecole.) 
 
 STEWED MUSHROOMS. 
 
 Put in a stew pan with a lump of butter, salt and 
 pepper to taste, and a tablespoonful of lemon juice to 
 each pint of mushrooms, cover closely, stew until ten- 
 der, thicken with a teaspoonful of flour, add a little 
 sweet cream, and serve. 
 
 BAKED MUSHROOMS. 
 
 Lay in a baking dish, sprinkle with melted butter, 
 salt and pepper, and bake in a quick oven. 
 
20 COOKERY MANUAL. 
 
 BROILED MUSHROOMS. 
 
 Place in a wire gridiron, broil over a clear fire, lay on 
 a hot dish, and season with salt, pepper, butter and 
 lemon juice. 
 
 MACARONI. 
 
 Macaroni is composed of wheat flour and water, and 
 is simply paste or dough pressed into shape and dried ; 
 but it occupies the anomalous position of being gene- 
 rally classed among vegetables. It is easily prepared 
 for the table, makes a palatable, nutritious and inex- 
 pensive dish, and should be more generally used. 
 
 BOILED MACARONI. 
 
 Break in pieces two or three inches in length, boil till 
 tender enough to be easily mashed with the fingers, 
 drain in a colander and serve with drawn butter, or 
 with white, brown, tomato, or any other sauce. 
 
 BAKED MACARONI. 
 
 Boil, drain, put in a shallow baking dish, season to 
 taste with salt and pepper, add a little sweet cream or 
 milk, and a lump of butter, cover thickly with grated 
 cheese, sprinkle with seasoned bread crumbs, and bake 
 in a quick oven till nicely browned. 
 
 STEWED MACARONI. 
 
 Boil, drain, stew in cream, milk or broth, season to 
 taste, and serve ; or serve with any kind of sauce. 
 
VEGETABLES. *1 
 
 MACARONI PUDDING. 
 
 Mince together equal portions of boiled chicken and 
 boiled ham, add beaten egg, sweet cream and grated 
 cheese, season with salt and pepper, mix with boiled 
 macaroni, put into a buttered pudding mold, cover 
 closely and simmer in boiling water about an hour ; 
 or put in a baking dish and bake in the oven. Serve 
 with any sauce liked. 
 
 STEWED OKRA. 
 
 Wash and slice the pods, simmer in a little water or 
 broth till tender, and season with salt, pepper and 
 butter. 
 
 BOILED ONIONS. 
 
 Peel, boil till tender, drain, season with salt, pepper 
 and butter. 
 
 STEWED ONIONS. 
 
 Peel, boil half an hour, drain, cover with milk, stew 
 until tender, drain, mash or chop, add a little cream, 
 stir until thoroughly heated, season with salt and pep- 
 per and serve. Or when cooked tender and drained, 
 dress and serve whole. 
 
 BAKED ONIONS. 
 
 Peel, boil till tender, roll each onion in tissue paper, 
 bake an hour in a moderate oven, remove the paper, 
 brown the onions, and serve with drawn butter. 
 
22 COOKERY MANUAL. 
 
 SCOLLOPED ONIONS. 
 
 Peel, boil till tender, drain, divide each onion into 
 several pieces, place in a baking dish with alternate 
 layers of seasoned bread crumbs, moisten with milk 
 and bake a nice brown. 
 
 GLAZED ONIONS. 
 
 Peel, slice, put in a baking dish, moisten with brown 
 sauce, or any well seasoned broth, and brown in the 
 oven. 
 
 SARATOGA ONIONS. 
 
 Peel, slice thin, drop in smoking hot fat, fry till a 
 light brown, drain in a colander, and serve hot. 
 
 FRIED ONIONS. 
 
 Peel, slice, put in a frying pan containing a small 
 quantity of hot butter or drippings, cover, and fry 
 slowly, turning them over frequently to prevent burn- 
 ing. When tender, and a light brown color, season 
 with salt and pepper, and serve. 
 
 PARSLEY. 
 
 For flavoring soups, stews, etc., parsley can be 
 minced and sprinkled in them wrfile cooking. For 
 garnishing it can be used raw, or can be put in a wire 
 basket, plunged in hot oil or fat for a minute, drained, 
 and then used. 
 
VEGETABLES. 23 
 
 PUMPKIN. 
 
 The old familiar pumpkin is cooked and served in 
 every respect like the winter squash, which is so much 
 drier, sweeter and finer grained, that it has nearly su- 
 perseded it for table use. 
 
 BOILED PARSNIPS. 
 
 Wash, boil till tender, drain, cut in slices and serve 
 with drawn butter, or with a white sauce, to which a 
 little vinegar or lemon juice has been added. 
 
 STEWED PARSNIPS. 
 
 Wash, scrape, cut in pieces, stew tender, drain, press 
 out the water, mash fine, season to taste, add a little 
 cream or milk, and stir over the fire about five minutes. 
 
 BROWNED PARSNIP. 
 
 Wash, scrape, boil till tender, drain, roll in flour, and 
 brown in drippings or butter, in the oven. 
 
 FRIED PARSNIP. 
 
 Wash, scrape, boil, drain, mash, season to taste, make 
 into cakes and fry brown. 
 
 PARSNIP FRITTERS. 
 
 Mash two or three boiled parsnips, add a well beaten 
 egg, two tablespoonfuls of milk, one tablespoonful of 
 
24 COOKERY MANUAL, 
 
 flour, season to taste, drop by spoonfuls in a little hot 
 butter and fry brown. 
 
 BOILED PEAS. 
 
 Shell the peas, tie in a muslin bag, simmer till ten- 
 der and season with salt, pepper and butter. 
 
 STEWED PEAS. 
 
 Shell, put in a small quantity of boiling water, cover 
 closely, and simmer until tender. Add sweet cream, 
 a lump of butter rolled in flour, and season with salt 
 and pepper. 
 
 PEAS PUDDING. 
 
 Soak dried peas several hours in cold water, tie 
 loosely in a bag, boil till tender, rub through a sieve, 
 add half a pint of cream and two beaten eggs, to each 
 pint of peas, season to taste, tie up in a floured pud- 
 ding bag, boil half an hour, and serve with melted but- 
 ter, or white sauce. 
 
 BAKED POTATOES. 
 
 Wash, wipe, put in a moderately hot oven and sub- 
 ject to a gradually increasing heat until perfectly baked, 
 then crack, place in a dish, leave uncovered, and serve 
 hot. The starch in potatoes absorbs moisture when 
 the cells are ruptured by heat, and unless baked or 
 roasted potatoes are broken as soon as cooked, so the 
 
VEGETABLES. 25 
 
 steam can escape, they become watery and dark col- 
 ored, and lose their flavor. 
 
 GERMAN POTATOES. 
 
 Scoop out, and mash the flesh of partly baked pota- 
 toes, mix with finely minced meat, season to taste, re- 
 place in the scooped-out skins, put in the oven and 
 bake. 
 
 (STUFFED POTATOES. 
 Scoop out and mash the flesh when partly baked, 
 mix with grated cheese, bread crumbs and any other 
 ingredients desired, season to taste, replace in the 
 scooped-out shells and bake. 
 
 BROWNED POTATOES. 
 
 Pare, parboil, lay in the pan containing a fowl, or 
 roast of meat, and turn over occasionally while cook- 
 ing, so they may brown evenly. 
 
 KENTUCKY POTATOES. 
 
 Pare, slice, put in layers in a baking dish, moisten 
 with milk or cream, season with salt and pepper and 
 bake in a quick oven. 
 
 Vary the liquid and seasoning used in preparing po- 
 tatoes according to this formula, and each variation will 
 produce a different dish that can, without impropriety, 
 be named after any State in the Union. 
 
3b COOKERY MANUAL. 
 
 POTATOES A LA ROYAL. 
 
 Cut potatoes in balls, parboil, brown in the oven, and 
 serve hot. 
 
 Cut in other shapes, parboil, and brown in the same 
 way, and they may be dignified with other pretentious 
 titles. 
 
 BOILED POTATOES. 
 
 Simmer gently and without interruption, whether 
 pared or unpared, until tender enough to be pierced 
 with a straw, drain, cover with a folded towel and set 
 to dry off, where they will keep hot. 
 
 SCOOPED POTATOES. 
 
 Cut balls from pared potatoes with a vegetable scoop, 
 boil and serve plain, or with any sauce desired. Old 
 potatoes treated in this way, and served with a white 
 sauce are often imposed upon unsuspecting guests as 
 new potatoes. 
 
 STEAMED POTATOES. 
 
 Put the potatoes, whether pared or unpared, in a 
 steamer, cover closely, set over a pot of boiling water, 
 and cook till tender. 
 
 STEWED POTATOES. 
 
 Slice pared potatoes, stew gently till tender, drain 
 and serve with white or other sauce ; or when drained, 
 
VEGETABLES. 27 
 
 add a little cream or milk, season with salt, pepper and 
 minced parsley, simmer a few minutes and serve. 
 
 SARATOGA POTATOES. 
 
 Pare, slice thin, soak in cold water, drain in a colan- 
 der, dry thoroughly in towels, separate the slices, drop 
 a few at a time into a kettle of hot lard, fry till a light 
 brown, lift with a skimmer, drain on a sieve, sprinkle 
 with salt, and serve hot or cold, as preferred. 
 
 JULIENNE POTATOES. 
 
 Slice with a crimped, instead of a plain or common, 
 knife, and fry the same as Saratoga potatoes. 
 
 POTATOES A LA FRANCAIS. 
 
 Cut with a scoop or spoon, and fry in a quantity of 
 hot grease. 
 
 PARISIENNE POTATOES. 
 
 Cut with a spoon, fry in hot grease and sprinkle with 
 salt and minced parsley. 
 
 
 FRIED POTATOES. 
 
 Pared potatoes cut in slices and strips, or in rhom- 
 boidal, globular, angular and other irregular shapes and 
 cooked in hot fat are served as Saratoga, Julienne, 
 Parisienne, etc., etc., but however varied the style, and 
 
28 COOKERY MANUAL. 
 
 however fanciful the name under which they are made 
 to do duty, they are simply— -fried potatoes ; and the 
 secret of frying potatoes successfully — in whatever 
 shape sliced, or by whatever name dignified — is to have 
 the lard, oil or drippings at the proper temperature 
 when they are put into it, and to keep it so during the 
 entire process of cooking. 
 
 BROILED POTATOES. 
 
 Parboil, cut in tolerably thick slices, put in a wire 
 gridiron, broil a nice brown on both sides, and season 
 with salt, pepper and melted butter. 
 
 CRISPED POTATOES. 
 
 Boil in their skins, peel, place whole in a gridiron, 
 crisp thoroughly over the fire, and serve hot. 
 
 MASHED POTATO. 
 
 Pare, boil or steam till tender, drain, dry off, mash 
 fine in a warm pan or kettle, moisten, to the consis- 
 tency liked, with hot milk, season with salt, pepper and 
 butter, then beat very light with a wooden spoon or wire 
 masher, and serve hot. Be careful to mash the potato 
 till very smooth before, and to beat it till very light 
 after, the seasoning is added. 
 
 POTATO SNOW. 
 
 Pare, boil, rub through a colander, allow the curly 
 strings to pile up on a heated dish in a snowy mass, 
 and serve hot. 
 
VEGETABLES. »» 
 
 DUCHESSE POTATO. 
 
 Boil, mash, season to taste, add beaten egg, work 
 well, roll out flat, cut in narrow strips two or three 
 inches in length, or squeeze through a pastry bag in 
 shape of lady fingers, and brown in the oven. 
 
 CASSEROLE OF POTATOES. 
 
 Form an oval pile of mashed potato on a dish, make 
 a hole in the centre the size desired, brush the surface 
 with beaten egg yolk, set in a hot oven till nicely 
 browned, fill the hole with stewed tomatoes, macaroni, 
 or with ragout or stew of any kind, and serve hot. 
 
 POTATO CROQUETTES. 
 
 Enrich mashed potato with beaten egg yolk, season 
 with salt, pepper, lemon peel, nutmeg, mace or other 
 spices, form into balls or rolls, dip in beaten egg and 
 bread crumbs and fry in hot grease. 
 
 SCOLLOPED POTATO. 
 
 Fill buttered shells or patty pans with seasoned 
 mashed potato, cover the surface with bread crumbs 
 moistened with butter, and brown in a quick oven. 
 
 POTATO PUFFS. 
 
 Stir together a cup of milk, two cups of mashed po- 
 tato, two well beaten eggs, two tablespoonfuls of butter 
 
30 COOKERY MANUAL. 
 
 and a little salt, pour into a buttered baking dish, and 
 bake in a quick oven. 
 
 POTATO FRITTERS. 
 
 To a pint of milk and the yolks of three eggs beaten 
 well together, stir a half a dozen medium sized boiled 
 potatoes grated or finely mashed, and flour enough to 
 make a batter the proper consistency. Add a pinch of 
 salt and the beaten whites of the eggs, and fry in hot 
 grease. 
 
 POTATO SOUFFLE. 
 
 Put a quart of mashed potato with a little butter, in 
 a stew pan over the fire, season to taste, add gradually 
 half a pint of milk and the beaten yolks of two eggs, 
 stir until the mixture begins to thicken, remove from 
 the fire, add the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff 
 froth, pour into a baking dish, smooth the surface and 
 bake in a quick oven. 
 
 POTATO BISCUIT. 
 
 Add a cup of milk and half a teaspoonful of salt to a 
 quart of mashed potato, work in flour until the dough 
 is sufficiently consistent to roll out and cut into biscuit. 
 Bake on a griddle or floured pan. Or a tables poonful 
 of yeast can be added, the dough set to rise, and when 
 light it can be shaped into biscuit or rolls and baked 
 in the oven. 
 
VEGETABLES. 81 
 
 POTATO AU GRATE*. 
 
 Slice cold boiled potatoes, stew in broth or milk 
 season with salt and pepper, sprinkle with grated 
 cheese and bread crumbs, and brown in the oven. 
 
 POTATOES POLONAISE. 
 
 Stew cold sliced boiled potatoes in broth or milk, 
 and dress with caper sauce. 
 
 POTATO A LA MAITRE DE HOTEL. 
 
 Stir together in a sauce pan over the fire equal por- 
 tions of butter and flour, pour in a little milk, add cold 
 boiled potato sliced, simmer till well heated, season 
 with salt, pepper, minced parsley and lemon juice. 
 
 POTATO A LA BARIGOULB. 
 
 Cut cold boiled potatoes the shape of olives and fry 
 with a spoonful of minced herbs, in olive oil. 
 
 POTATO A LA PROVENCALS. 
 
 Cut cold boiled potatoes in balls, and fry with a few 
 slices of onion in oil, butter or drippings. 
 
 POTATO LYONNAISE. 
 
 Cut cold boiled potato in dice, fry, with minced 
 onion, in butter, season with salt and pepper, and 
 sprinkle with chopped parsley. 
 
COOKERY MANUAL. 
 POTATO BALLS. 
 
 Enrich cold mashed potato with egg yolk, make into 
 balls, dip in beaten egg, roll in corn meal or bread 
 crumbs, and brown in a quick oven; or shape into 
 cakes and fry in a little hot fat. 
 
 TO STEW COLD POTATO. 
 
 Slice cold boiled potato, put in a stew pan with cold 
 gravy or milk, season with salt and pepper, and simmer 
 till thoroughly heated. 
 
 TO FRY COLD POTATO. 
 
 Slice cold boiled potato, dredge lightly with flour, and 
 fry brown; or fry without dredging. Or hash fine, sea- 
 son with salt and pepper, and fry brown. 
 
 POTATO HASH. 
 
 Heat together in a stew pan, a spoonful of butter 
 and a teacupful of milk seasoned with salt and pepper 
 add cold hashed potato, cover closely and simmer 
 gently till well heated. 
 
 SWEET POTATOES. 
 
 Sweet potatoes are much dryer and nicer steamed 
 than boiled, but are at their best estate only, when 
 baked. They can, however, be prepared very accept- 
 ably, in many of the ways in which white potatoes are 
 cooked and served. They should be cooked in their 
 skins. 
 
VEGETABLES, 33 
 
 BOILED RICE. 
 
 Wash, soak an hour, drain, put in boiling water 
 slightly salted — allowing two and a half measures of 
 water to one of rice — boil till tender, cover with a folded 
 towel, and set where it will dry off and keep hot. 
 
 STEAMED RICE. 
 
 Wash, soak an hour — allowing three measures of 
 water to one measure of rice — set the vessel containing 
 the rice and water in a steamer, add a little salt, and 
 steam an hour, or until tender. If desired, part of the 
 water may be omitted, and its equivalent in milk added 
 when the rice is nearly done cooking. 
 
 SPINACH. 
 
 Trim, wash carefully, put in a small quantity of water, 
 cover closely, boil till tender, drain in a colander, press 
 out the water, season with salt, pepper and butter, 
 and serve with poached eggs, or with hard boiled 
 eggs cut in slices ; or, after it is cooked and drained, 
 chop fine, put in a stew pan with a lump of butter, add 
 a little sweet cream, season with salt and pepper, stir 
 till well heated, and serve with poached, or hard boiled 
 eggs. 
 
 BOILED SALSIFY. 
 
 Scrape, cut in pieces half an inch in length, boil till 
 tender, drain, and serve with drawn butter or white 
 
81 COOKERY MANUAL. 
 
 sauce ; or mash fine, season to taste, add a little cream 
 and serve. 
 
 FRIED SALSIFY. 
 
 Boil, drain, mash fine, season to taste, add a spoon- 
 ful of cream and a well beaten egg, make into small 
 cakes and brown on a griddle, or fry in hot fat. 
 
 SCALLOPED SALSIFY. 
 
 Boil, drain, cut in slices, put in a baking dish with 
 alternate layers of seasoned bread crumbs, moisten with 
 milk and bake brown. 
 
 SALSIFY TOAST. 
 
 Slice, stew tender in milk, season with salt and pep- 
 per, stir in two well beaten eggs, and pour over slices 
 of hot buttered toast. 
 
 SEA KALE 
 
 Cook and serve the same as asparagus. 
 
 BOILED TURNIPS. 
 
 Wash, pare, boil till tender, drain in a colander, press 
 out the water, mash fine, season with salt, pepper and 
 butter, serve hot. Or cut in slices and serve with 
 cream sauce, or with drawn butter to which vinegar or 
 lemon juice has been added till slightly acid. 
 
VEGETABLES. 35 
 
 STEWED TURNIPS. 
 
 Wash, pare, boil fifteen minutes, drain, add a pint of 
 milk to each quart of turnips, simmer till tender and 
 serve with salt and pepper. 
 
 BAKED TURNIPS. 
 
 Wash, pare, boil half an hour, cut in thin slices, lay- 
 in a buttered pudding dish, sprinkle with seasoned 
 bread crumbs, moisten with milk and bake in the oven 
 until a rich brown. 
 
 TOMATO SALAD. 
 
 Peel and slice perfectly ripe tomatoes, arrange in a 
 dish, set on ice or in a cold place, and serve plain, or 
 with cream, French, or Mayonnaise dressing. Or 
 arrange on a dish with alternate layers of sliced onions, 
 and serve with French dressing. 
 
 STEWED TOMATOES. 
 
 Peel, slice, stew until very soft, and season with salt, 
 pepper and butter. Or cream may be substituted for 
 butter, and a delicate flavoring of mace or nutmeg, if 
 liked, can be added. Simple broth or stock of any 
 kind may be used for stewing tomatoes, and a small 
 quantity of onion added for flavoring. The stew may 
 also be thickened, if desired, by the addition of bread 
 crumbs, boiled rice, macaroni, corn starch or flour. 
 
 
COOKERY MANUAL 
 BAKED TOMATOES. 
 
 Wash and wipe smooth ripe tomatoes, remove the 
 stems with a sharp pointed knive, place in a baking 
 dish, cook in a moderately hot oven till nicely browned, 
 season with salt, pepper and butter. 
 
 SMOTHERED TOMATOES. 
 
 Cut in halves, put skin side down in a buttered 
 baking dish, season with salt and pepper, cover with 
 fine bread crumbs, moisten with butter and bake in the 
 oven. 
 
 STUFFED TOMATOES. 
 
 Make a hole in the centre of each tomato, fill with 
 bread crumbs, season with salt, pepper and butter, 
 and bake. Or scoop out the inside, put in a sauce pan 
 with some finely minced ham, onion, parsley and bread 
 crumbs, stew fifteen minutes, season with salt, pepper 
 and butter, fill the scooped out tomato skins with the 
 mixture, and bake. 
 
 SCALLOPED TOMATOES. 
 
 Fill a baking dish with alternate layers of sliced to- 
 mato and seasoned bread crumbs, and bake in the oven. 
 
 FRIED TOMATOES. 
 
 Slice firm unpeeled tomatoes, season with salt and 
 pepper, dip in flour, corn meal, or bread crumbs, and 
 fry until brown. 
 
VEGETABLES. 37 
 
 BROILED TOMATOES. 
 
 Slice impeded tomatoes, dip in olive oil or melted 
 butter, then in flour or fine bread crumbs, place in a 
 wire broiler and cook quickly. 
 
 FRICASSEED TOMATOES. 
 
 Slice, fry a nice brown in butter, and lift to a warm 
 plate. Pour a little sweet cream in the frying pan, 
 season with salt and pepper, and turn boiling hot over 
 the tomatoes. 
 
 BOILED SQUASH. 
 
 Pare, remove the seeds, cut into pieces suitable for 
 serving, put in a covered vessel with a small quantity 
 of boiling water, simmer gently until tender, serve with 
 melted butter, white sauce, or brown sauce; or dry off, 
 mash fine, and season with salt, pepper and butter. 
 
 STEAMED SQUASH. 
 
 Cut in halves, remove the seeds, steam until tender, 
 scoop out of the skin, and season to taste. 
 
 BAKED SQUASH. 
 
 Cut in two or more pieces, scrape out the seeds, put 
 in a pan, skin side down, bake and serve with butter; 
 or scoop out of the skin, and season with salt and 
 pepper. 
 
38 COOKERY MANUAL. 
 
 FRIED SQUASH 
 
 Pare, steam or stew till sufficiently tender, drain, roll 
 in beaten egg, then in crumbs and fry in hot fat. 
 
 SUMMER SQUASH. 
 
 Cut in pieces, stew, drain, mash and season with salt, 
 pepper, butter and sweet cream. Or cut in slices, and 
 fry, the same as egg-plant. 
 
Supplementary Suggestions, 
 
 Most vegetables can be prepared for the table in a 
 variety of ways ; and in a majority of cases, a large 
 number belonging to a special class, can be cooked and 
 served according to the recipes applicable to the prep- 
 aration of any single vegetable of that class. 
 
 By a judicious admixture of two or more vegetables 
 many dishes may be formed that possess characteristics 
 peculiar only to such combinations, and of which the 
 different vegetables composing them are destitute 
 when served separately. 
 
 Simmering in broth or plain stock improves the fla- 
 vor of some vegetables, and "pot liquor." or the water 
 in which ham, pork, corned beef and other salt meats 
 have been boiled, when freed from grease, may be used 
 for cooking vegetables in, if prefered to clear water. 
 
 Cooked vegetables need never be thrown away or 
 wasted. They should all be saved and utilized. By 
 skillful re-warming they can be converted into number- 
 less dishes that are attractive and appetizing, and in 
 their preparation can be so varied as to suit almost 
 every taste and fancy. 
 
(^ookerg jjffxnuate. 
 
 INTo. 4< 
 
 BY 
 
 MRS. EMMA P. EWLTSTG. 
 
 Author af "Soup and Soup Making," "Bread and Bread Making, 
 "Salad and Salad Making," Etc. 
 
 CHICAGO: 
 
 FAIRBANKS, PALMER & CO. 
 1884. 
 
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