Author S.E .Z.%1 Title Imprint. 16— -4737a-2 0 SCIENCE OF HORSE TRAINING, o o N r A I N I N a THE HTSTOin' OF TWENTY YEA]RS' EXPERI- ENCE IN Tl?AJNliN(i HORSES AND RIJEAK- 1N(4 COl/rS: ALSO HINTS ON BRKAKING STEERS,.MANY VALl ABEE RECIPES, &(:., ' &(:., &('., &C. By FIlANlv DONALD. P.EKLIN, WIS.: TRUKV & AKNOl/n, P1UNTEU9. 1870. '* ' • INTRODUCTION. Many learned and elaborate works have been written upon Iiorses, their breaking, driving and general man- agement ; and also on their diseases and enres. Some parts of these many works are very good, while others are of no benefit whatever to the praetitioner, or to those who do not make it a business to break horses, but yet break their own. On account of the great supply of horse-doctoring books before the public, I have made it no point to write anything on the diseases and cures of horses, although I have inserted a few recipes such as I can recommend, and know to be good, by dai- ly use of them. But I wissh to introduce to the people, and especially the farmers, a work descriptive of a new system of colt ))reaking and horse taming; a work which will be a benefit alike to the learned and unlearned, and one wdiich has cost me much time and labor for the last twenty years ; and I trust I have brought to light a system as near perfect, in a j^raetical point of view, for handling colts and horses with ease and safety, as any yet offered to horse owners. I have castrated and broke horses and colts in almost every county in this State, and if my employers, and friends tell me the truth, I have always given entire satis- faction, and they acknowledge that my system INTRODUCTION. is the system by which to break aiuJ train colts. My castriiting like my training, always speaks for itself. In a phi( e where I can get one job I can always get more another season. Hoping my new system will meet tlie approbation of farmers and horse; rais(>rs, to such \ cheerfully ii hurt his mouth he will be tifraid to have it touched, and may pros'e very troublesome about mauaglng. TO GET A COLT INTO A BARN. There are hut few colts but what ca.i be induced to go into the barn yird, but this is scarcely ■the place to train a colt unless it is very small. I have always found the barn floor the niDst suital)le and convenient place to handle a colt, but to g(;t him into the l)arn is generally a task of no small magnitude, that is, without seriously alarming and worrying him. There are several means which cm besucccssfnily used, such as driving him i.ito the birn in company with one or more old horses or gently driving him in alone l)y slowly working toward the barn door, letting him take his time to get fimiliar with everythiag tint miy appear suspicious or alarm- ing to him. Make no movement on your part to alarm him, by throwing up the arms, runui ;g to head iiim oif, or speaking sharply. If he sh")uld run by you once do not make matters worse by trying to st')p him, but let him go, and work around him agiin. It is well known that the horse is naturally a timid a liniil, aud tryi ig to force him into the birn will excite his fears and make him think it necessary to eseape at all hazards for the safety of his life. In one instance I had a colt which no amount of coaxing or driviiig could get into the barn ; 80 I had both doors thrown wide open, and placed a man at the o])posite door out of sight of the colt. The colt seeing a chance to get away from me made a dash to go through the barn, but as soon as he was inside we suddenly closed both doors and we had our colt. FIRST PROCESS OF BREAKING COLTS. Let the barn be clear from all obstructions. After the colt is in the barn let him alone a few moments, to allow him to examine the floor and all unfamiliar ob- jects ; then go in with a bow whip or switch aad walk SCTEXCE OF nonSE TRAINING. 11 nronrul ;i few iii'-nicntH after the colt, or until lie be- coiucs quiet. iS'ow take a half-inch rcipe aljout thirty feet long, tie a ring in the end of it for the rope to run througlj to fm-ui a noose. • Place the nooKC in the cor- ner of the Ijarii far enough back for the colt to stand his lij't fore j'ito:. inside it. By driving him around a few times he can be mad(! to step inside it. If possible, ap- proach within ten or fifteen feet of th( colt and jerk the rope so as to ciitch the loop around his leg Ijelow the knee. Ashe f-els. then'opo tig'iten he will jump and [).-ob:t!)ly re:ir and kick. i)o not try to hold any tight- .er than to keep the r;ipe from slipping until the colt finds tint he can not get ;i\v;iy from it.. Kee|) as near be- hind liiui as possit)le, as lie can not strain himself in the least when you are pulling from Ijehind, or in front. You need not speak until (he colt gives tip, for the less noise the belter As soon, after the colt is caught, as he will stand still enough i'or you to move back and forth, step arountl l)ehind liim and draw the rope around his hind legs abf)ve the gambrels and tighten it. If he attempts to jumi), speak gently to him saying, "whoa," and li>!d him, as you iiave the power to do .so. Now start iiim forward and when he has taken a few steps say, "whoa," and pull the rope up enough so tiiat he can not take a step. Win n he finds he can not go make hiin step one iiind foot over the rope keeping it still around the hind leg on the same side as the fore leg to which the rope is attatched. Walk around toward his head very quietly and keeping the rope tight above the gam- brel. Caress him gently, rub him on the fore shoulder and down tlie f)re l;g, along the side, and down the hi:. d leg. He can n')t ki(;k or str.k- unless he jumps. When you have him sufficiently usid to your movements about him, put on tlie "guard." 1 do n(;t think a horse is properly broke without the use of tliis. The guard is a strap one inch and a half in width with a ring in it, the strap being long enough to go around the horse's leg. Buckle onearoundthe forelecr above the knee, and 12 gOIEWCK or ilOKSK TKAINING. one on tbe bind leg below tbo gambrel. Pass a thmf quarter rope or strap through the ring on the fore itvg from tbe front side and fasten it to tbu strap on the fund leg. Tbe rope should Ix; about fourteen feet long. Turn tbe rope around fron\ tbe under side so as to form a kink in tbe rope behind tbe ring on tine fore leg and. keep a firm bold on tlie end of the rope. Thus you have tbe eolt completely in your po\,ver. As be can not get away you ciu\ compel hinii to stand as you please. He ean neitlxr go ahead, back, nor sideways. If you draw tbe rope tight it draws th(^ hind fodt up to tbe knee and learns him to stand to be shod without leaab g upon tbe smith as sonu; horses do. You can now take your smalt rope off and put the noose oviT tbe coH's neck, and ])ut » small stra]) around the under jaw under the tongue and through the ring on tbe rope. Place the top of the rope back of the crest of tbe neck. You can handle his head now at will, and do it very gently. While you have this guard on you can accustom him to tbe sigbt of buffalo robes, Idankets, etc.,. by bri.iging them be- fore him, laying them on bis back, and otherwise show- ing him they will not barm liim. If you wish to break him to ride, jump upon his back, slide off on bis gam- brels, etc., until he submits to be bandied all over and stands still. Now put tbe guard on tbe off bind leg, fasten tlx; small rope to the nigh fore leg below the knee. One end is already on the neck and jaw. the guard still remaining •», but long enough to allow the colt to take a natural step. Pull lightly on the rope that runs to his jaw, and give a smart pull on tbe fore leg which will compel the colt to step ahead. You have not tbe power to pull the colt along by the bead, but you have by the leg by pulling a little sideways. A severe pull on the bead will most generally cause the colt to rear, but a light ])ull on the head at the time of pulling forward tbe foot, will (!stablish the fact with the colt that it would be useless for him to 2)ull on a bri- dle or halter. When you pull the colt toward you say, SCIENCE OF HORSE TRAINING. 13 "Come here," .nui lie will soon Icmn that those words mean for him to coum to you. When he comes close up, caress him, with a rub ou the head, beneath the eyes, etc. If you wish your liorse to follow the crack of the whip, cr.ick a whip as you pull him toward you until he will come at that .sound alone. Let the colt rest often or he will become tired and sullen. It might be well to say here that where the colt has been used to running into the staljlc, sheds, or other out- buildings, drive several in at onceandthen separate l he one you wish to catch from the otln'rs. Make him step into the noose before mentioned and hold liiin until the others can be driven out. If you wi.sh to take him to a .other ^tab]e or more convenient place before com- mencing work, put a halter on him, and \r-dd another horse, harnessed, sideways to the door on the outside, which will prevent the colt from making his escape. Hitch tiierope on the colt's leg to the hame-ring of the harness on the other horse aiul then work the colt along toward the horse at the door. When neai- Puough tie the halter-stale al.so in the hame-ring leaving the halter a little the hmgest so as not to pull the colt's head first. Back up the horse and swing him around, thus jjulling the colt from the stable. Keep on the op|K)site side id" the lior.-;c from the cojt so as not to frighten him and you can soon lead him to a safe place for treatment, (•are must be taken in handling colts in a low stable to prevent them from injuring their heads by rearing while you are pulling on the rope. TO I>EAltN THE COLT TO STAND. Place the colt in a narrow stall, containing a strong hitching ring placed three or four feet above the floor. Put a good halter on the colt — one you can depend upon Run the halter-stale through the ring from the back side and down to a strap buckled to the nigh fore leg above the knee, leaving tBe stale long enough to allow the colt to stand back three feet, and the guard on the 14 SCIENCE OP UOUSE TRAINING. off legs rather sliort, and- then let him pull all he can. He can not hurt his h(';ul by pulling us the act lifts o.e of his main braces from the floor. The guard prevents him from pawing or rearing. Some colts will paw or rear when left alone, or will kick the stall, whicii wili be prevented by p'utting the guard on both f^ides iilike. If necessity com]>els you to stand horses together tliat are sharply shod, put a guard on each horse on the in- side and it will .save you a maimed horse. If you wish to leave y.iur horses in the field, or wish to have tliem stand without Ixnng liitchcd, put the guard on the out side l(>gs very short and they can not run. Of course they will require some watching at fir.st. TO LEARN A COI>T TO KEIN. This is the most imjjortant pirt of a colt's education. No colt is pleasant to rid« or drive unless he follows the rein perfectly. There arc but few persons who have not .some. little experience in driving horses, and they know how their tempers have been tried when trying to shun obstructions. They rein one side and the horse's head comes around, while the position of the body is unchanged. Prompt obedience to the rein should be taught the colt from the beginning. J think I can safe- ly say that thi-re is not one man in a thousand who un- derstands how to learn a c.nlt to rein properly. The method commonly practiced is to pass the rein through the turrets on the b;ick-pad and to the bit. nnd then try to turn the colt l)y pulling one rein or the other, which generally gives the impression that you want him to back, as it pulls the liit into his mouth. It ahso frets the horse and makes his mouth sore. My method of teaching a colt to rein is to first show him how. Use a good leather bit with large cheek pieces which will not draw through the mouth. Fasten the rein into the ring of the bit, and arcmnd the^ore leg below the knee on the same side. Take the line running to the bit with one hand, and the one running to the leg with the oth- sciKNCR ov nonsi: 'rn.MNixa. 15 ■or. St(\nd in front and to ono side', say to liira, "Come tii-ound," iind pull on each stri'.p ; lift the li g up and pull it sidinvajs, pnlling lightly on the rein so iie will not turn his lu^ad sid(!way^ as you make him cnn>o Jiround. As you turn him kr-o]) stopping further hack iiutU you oa ) tt'.rn him by pulling th'e rein against his flank. The pull on the l>it should amount to a very lightjerk. Aft(!r the colt will turn one way hy merely pulling with y-ur thumb a d fi^iger, phiee the rein on the other leg und lt^;irn him to t?uru tiie other v\-ay also, Pulling the c )lt sideways by the leg shows him how to lift uj) his feet to .step around, which can not l>e done in any other way. Wiien your cgit. turns readily, tsdce the rein from the leg and fastca it to tlic other side of the hit. Now stand on the near side at theshoulder; throw the off rein over the lilps and aijiive the g unhreU with the right hand, keej)ir'g a firm hold on the hit with the left hand, to keep him from jun.jpijig ahead when you pull on the oft" r( in, as it draws aroui d the flank. You should now turn the head fnuu you l)y pidling with a firm hand o.; the off rein. Keep turning him around until he steps otf-quarely frmu you. Now change sides a .d priecied as before. When the colt learns to .step sideways with nit turning his head, step away from him and tell liim to g). If ]\v. does not move pull him short toone side as he steps, giving him the rein loose. If he tries to get away turn his head toward you, and as he gets part way round you can stop him short by pulling the rein furtherest from you arouiul his gatrdjrels, hold- ing the other rein tight. By keej)ing the reins below the hips when driving him around you can prevent him from turning his head around toward j'ou, as he will vvhc;! the reins run through the turrets. If you wish to turn him to the left, step to the right side and pull quickly with the left rein it being down as low as the fla ik. By following these .directions you can learn a colt to step squarely and promptly to one side. When you pull ou the rein, as it learns him to step his fore 16 SCIENCE OP HOIiSB; TRAINING. feet to one side, and his liind feet to the other, you can easily turn your liorse around on a space four feet square. TO UITCH Ul* A COI.T. Here is the secret of having a quiet and trusty horse. Very often we hear men say, "My colt needs no brenk- ing. Tlie hoys can easily hitch him up." It is very much like pUu-ing n peison ui)f)n a locomotive who is totally nnac(|u;iiiit('d witli it, or never saw one. lie may .set it in motion but that is as far as his ability extends; he is incajjable and powerless to run it. A horse is never thoroughly broke or entirely .safe until he is con- quered and learned vvh:it you want of him. The first impression a colt gets lasts the longest. Tie should never be hitched up with another horse until he has been driven alone with the reins, and then plac(Hi in a heavy pair of shafts with one end to drag ujion the ground, which will prevent him from backing and learn him the use of the thills at the same time. 'I'he guard should be put on when the colt is first placed in the shafts, as it will prevent him from running away or kicking, until he g'ts accustomed to the hnrness, shafts and otlua- things ai)out him; also, when hitched to any thing which frightens him, it prevents his rearing or kicking. A horse kicks, rears and frets more from fear in the first j)lace, and thenceforth from habit. A horse will soon learn to go cpiiet by wearing the guard short at first, and longer when you wish him to go faster. I will give the reason why .some horses baulk and kick, and some fret. First, you make your horst; fret by compelling or allowing him to go fast when first iiitch- ed up. Often we hear the remark, " When you get the colt started, let him go, or he will t)aulk." You get your colt started the best you can and then have to use the whi]) to keep him moving. The whip frightens the colt and he .starts into a trot or run which causes the wagon to rattle, or whatever vehicle he may be hitched SCIENCE OF HOKSE TRAINING. 17 to, and he is frightened still more; he commences to kick, or fret, and soon your colt is reduced in vsilue or spoiled entirely, for a fr(!tting, kicking horse is useless to every one, except, perhaps, the jockey. With such niiinner of treatniei.t almost any colt will learn to be- <-ome vicious, anridge, or into a barn, or tried to lead him while rid- ing nnothcr horse. I can obviate all these difficulties simply by a means I have of compelling a horse to go. If you wish to ride a horse and lead a colt, !>uekle a strap around the fore leg of the colt above the knee; hitch a rope or strap to it, and the other end around the horse's neck, leaving the loop as large as the collar should be. Have the strap between the horses long enough for the colt to travel when he comes up even with the horse. Fasten a strap to the colt'.s bit and to the girt of your horse, so he can not get too far ahead. Take your horse by the head and turn him around a few times until the 18 SCIENCE OF HOUSE TRAINING. colt finds he has to step. Then mount your horse and swing around towards the colt, and then start him off, and you will have no further trouble. When you first hitch a colt to a loaded wagon, fasten the strap from his leg to the breast-ring of the other horse, which should be a gentle, well broken one. Start your team by turning from the colt ; start the load by a stay chain on the broken horse's end of the evener. As soon as the colt has taken a few steps, say " Whoa," stopping him. Ca- ress him and let him have time to think, as it were. Start him by a word given to the other horse, and do not frigliteu him Ijy a display of the whip but keep that still. Walk him along as gently as possible, but if he begins to prance, or plunge, or exhibit any signs of fear, stop him instantly and let him know that he must go quiet. The lead-strap on his leg will compel him to go if he should hang back or refuse to step, and will also prevent him from swinging away from his mate. When you have your team started, get into the wagon and drive about as you please. The Iiorse will always be able to draw the colt along if he attempts to stop, for he can not brace buck enough to stop the horse, and soon he will learn that it is useless to make any such attempts. If he shows any signs of kicking put the guard upon his outside legs and he will soon give that up, too. The guard will also learn him to stand when stopped. Care should be taken to uncheck the colt when you stop him so that he may rest easy. CAUTION. I would say here that in hitching up a team which is uneasy and will not stand still, fasten the neck-yoke to the pole of the wagon, or sleigh, with a strong strap so they can not start ahead after you have hitched one tug, letting the tongue fall and frightening themselves. While hitching a colt onto a wagon, he will very often swing around away from the pole. In such a case I fast- en a strap into the end of the tug. Standing on the op- posite side, raise the tug above the gambrel and pull SCIENCE OF HORSE TRAINING. 19 him toward the pole, and say, "Stand in," as you pull hira in. Hitch the outside tug first, so he can not swing out while you are hitching the remaining tug. TO LEARN A COLT TO BACK is a very easy matter if you know how' to doit. But very few horses will hack without the aid of the lines. No one can learn a horse to back by jerking on the bits. A very common way to learn a colt to back is to get him on a sidehill and jerk the bits, letting the load pull him back. Some say that you must press tlie hand against the front part of the arm, but this is useless, as it simply hurts the colt and does not show him what is re- quired. I never spend more than twenty minutes, on an average, in learning a colt to back. With only the jjres- sure of my finger on the bit, or rein, I can make any horse liack, which I never saw any one else do. I do not wish it understood that other men c^n not break a colt as well as myself, for we have a great many good horsemen in the country, who will teach a horse almost any thing desired, but I wish the public to understand that my treatment does not liurt a colt, and he will learn what is wanted of him in one quarter of the time it will take him to learn the same by the treatment he will receive from other meji who liave written about, or taught in public how to train colts, or drive liorses. To show a colt how to back, and to compel him to do so, place a strap, or rope, around the front pastern, hav- ing it long enough to enal>le you to stand behind the colt. Take the lilies in one hand, and witli the other grasp the rope. Pull his foot back under him which will cause liim to take a step backward, as it throws him oft* his balance, and he can not step forward. As he begins to move backward pull lightly on the reins, Make him step a few steps backward, and then start him ahead as far as he went back. Tell him to back, calling his name, and if he does not step back readily, pull his foot back with a strong pull. Keep him at 210 SCIENCE OF lioRSE TRAINING. this until he backs at the word. It is better to havf a well broken horse with him when learning to back !)o fore a wagon. Care should be taken when your colt is learning to back, tiiat he does not back too far, nor toi> fast. A colt should not move a distance exceeding his own length at the word " Back." If he backs too fast, touch him with the whip, or let your other horse stop him, if hitched before a wagon. I have known men to spend boors trying to back a sullen colt out of a narrow stall. They would coax, jerk with a cord attached to the under jaw, whip over the head and shoulders, and try to push him oat by main f )rce, but all to no pur- pose ; they could not conspel him to back out. if a boy ten years old should put a strap on his fore log he could pull him out, by drawing tlje strap across the edge of the stall for a purchase. TO l.EAKN A COI/r TO GO STEADY, he should be learned to walk with a loose rein, which is a difficult thing to do with a high spirited animal. But there is no horse in existence tlvat ctii not !»e learn- ed to do this with proper treatment. I once found a horse that would prance from nu)rning till night, Ijoth before a loaded and an empty wagon and he could not be induced to sober down to a walk, al- though frequently covered Avith sweat and foam. I tried my method, and learned him to walk in less than a half day. I place the guard on, one end running back to the carriage. When the horse starts to trot, or prance, I speak to him, saying, "Whaa," and draw him up so he can not take a jjrancing step. If he gets very nerv- ous I pull on the guard and stop him until he gets qui et. Start him gently ; if he goes quiet, with the reiu loose, I stop and caress him. Let him know that it is what you want of hira. After he gives up prar.cing, when you say "Whaa," unhitch him and let him rest, as some horses fret only when they are tired. One import ant thing you should learn is the difference between "Whoa," and "Whaa." The former means to stop and SCIENCE OF HORSE TnAINIKG 21 stiind ; the latter, to go steadily. Some men say ■* Wh-o-o-o-o" for the latter, arid"Wlioa," when they d(!sire the horse to stop, not making difterenee enough between the two words to make it jjerceptible to tlic colt, and then because he does not readily obey he is severely dealt with. I do not believe in tlie frequent use of the whip, yet all colts should not be handled alike. A sullen, stubborn colt should sometimes have a good sharp cut with the wiiip, but a severe whipping would make, him more stubborn, and even vicious. If a eolt is very sullen, and it is mo.st apt to be the case while learning to back, the best way to remedy it is to allow him to stand a while and then work upon hira again, I have worked with eolts until they were very warm and tired, so they wouhl neither rein nor baek, nor auythiiig else I wished, withcnit using means to compel them ; but aft(;r putting on the guard and letting them rest for half an hour, or uiore, they would obey without any trouble. There is little use in trying to learn a colt anything when he is tired. You mu.st have patience if you would have kind and obedient liorses, as a great many colts are spoiled by not takiirg time enough to break them. I repeat what I have al- ready said, exercise patience, and perseverance, and keep your temper, foi*' the colt has enough to do to un- derstand what you want of him, and is frightened eiuHigh with the jjroeeediiigs and strange objects around him, without your frightening him .still more l)y your irritating voice and manners. Besides, when you are angry you can not use proper judgment in handling a liorse. You will blanie him for wh.at you are yoursi^lf to blame. If you undertake to make a horse do a thing, tirst sIk^v him how, and then persevere until you accomplish the task, for if the horse beats you once he will try uiuch harder to do so again, TO PKEVENT A HORSE PROM CARRVINO lltS HEAD TO ONE SIDE. To prevent this bad and unsightly practice on the 20 SCIENCE OF HOUSE TKAINIKO. part of the horse while V>einrad fast- ened to the ojjposite horse, in such a manner that it will goad the side of the crowding horse, but this gets the team in the habit of kicking, oftener than it cures them of the other hal)it. Some farmers pay 'large sun«s to jockeys to train tlieir carriage horses because they do not know how to do it themselves. I have known large sums to t>e offered l)y men who drove the l)est l»looded horses to have them taught to carry their heads straight with their bodies. They ]>ut on. tlie Ijitting harness, draw their heads up and draw them down, pull up thr side braces, but all to no pui'pose ; they are tlie same still. They want their horses to spread on the carriage, and w-ant the nigh horse to keep iar enough away from the offone so the plow Avill run well to land, wlule plow- ing but know of no Avay to liring around the desired re- sults. I will try to ex]>lain how I prevent this disagree- able habit, for I can call it nothing but a habit. Take a hickory stick, or one of some other tough timber, about three-fourths of an inch thick, having a knob on one end, or a pin through one end will do, so it will not draw through the turret-ring on the back-pad. Pass the stick through the ring from tlie back side, through the ring on the hame, and tie it to the bit on the off side, if it is the nigh horse that crowds, and to the nigh side if it is tlu' off horse. A horse will not crowd unless he turns his head to one side, and this l)race prevents him from doing this. If your horses do not go far enough apart, you can make them do so by putting one of these Vjraces on the inside of each horse, and make your inside lines long enough to let them spread apart. It will not prevent them from turning their heads in an opposite direction, as tiie brace wall slide through the rings and allow them to turn easily. SCIENCE .OF HORSE TRAINING. 33 TliP end that comes next to the bit should be light ciunigh to spring a little, as it will make it more endur- able tor the horse. It is a very good plan to put one of tliese braces on a colt while learning him to drive sin- gle, as it keeps his head straight with his body, and is far better than to tear his mouth with the bitting har- ness, such as is used by a majority of people in break- ing horses. Such harness should be banished to the barn garret, or some other place where they can not be used in tonuenting a colt, and a more humau« course of treatment sliould take its place. TO BRIDLE X COLT which tries to strike, rear, or throw himself back when you touch his mouth. Some colts, and even old horses have these faults. They can be easily broken up if you deal mildly with the horso. By fastening him in the same manniT as you would a horse that pulls at the halt- ter, that is, pass the halter through the hitching ring and fasten it to the fore leg, above the knee, short enough to keep him close to the manger, which pre- vents him from holding his head too high, and he can not strike nor crowd j'ou against the stall. To hold the horses head around toward you while putting in the bit.s, rub the palm of the hand down the side of the colt's head until you can get the ends of your fingers between his lips, in the corner of the mouth. Then press the thuml) against the outside, and the fingers weW up inside. Be careful not to get your fingers betw^een the animal's teeth. With this hold upon a horse you can bring his head toward you and open his mouth at the same time by spreading the two fingers in his mouth. Use the left hand when on the nigh side, putting the V)ridle on with the other, by crossing it above the left. This is the easiest way of putting the bits into a colt's mouth. Say, "Take in," when you open his mouth, and be will soon learn to do it by speaking to him or touch- ing the bits to his lijis. If a boy wishes to bridle a 34 8cie:^ce of. horse training. high-headed horse he can make him hohl down by tak- ing a turn arovuid beh)w the knee and drawing his head down in tliis way. TO WOKK AN OLD, BAtTT.KY HORSE DOUBLE, put the lead-strap from his knee to the breast-ring of the other horse. If single, start him by a sharp })ull on the fore leg. You can have one thill spliced three fec't beyond the horse, with a ring or ])alley attached to the end, ruiiningthe rope frmn his leg tlirougli tlie ring, or pulley; then you can pull him ahead from the cart or wagon. Be quiet with him, as it is nervousness, and a lack of understandirg yi>u, that makes him baulk, or he has been learned to baulk while being i)roken, or hurt by a poor collar, or a sore breast. TO DRIVE A KICKING HORSE in shafts before a carriage. If you can not get one of my bits you can put on a common over-draw rein, which is known as the Kimball Jackson chetrk, as Hiram WoodruiT drove a horse owned by Jackson since I in- vented it for my own use. It consists of a strap running frojn the bits, on each side of the nose, over the top of the head, and down to the cheek-hook, having a strap running from the overdraw, along tlie back, through a ring fastened to the top of the crupper ar.d l)ranching off to each end of the cross-bar of the thills; draw it tight enough to keep your horse's head u]) high as lie ought to carry it. This over-draw, running fnun the bit over the top of the head, to the cross-bar, and fast- ened, he can not kick, as that would throw up his head by the upper jaw. SHYING HORSES. A few remarks about driving skittish horses may not be out of place here. Some horses shy from imperfect vision, caused by wearing blinds, or blinkers, which have injured the sight to a great extent. Oth(;rs from ex- treme timidity, more apparent in some horses than in others ; others by driving them with a horse that is in SCIENCE OF HOUSE TRAINING. 25 tlic habit of shying at every object along the roadside, an a horse soon learns this habit from a mate. Often we are told by persons avIio write on the subject, if a horse shies to make him go up to the frightening object, and that he should touch it, or smell of it. This may do in some cases, but as a general thing I consider it entirely wrong. It will but confirm the hal>it. You siiould make your horse understajid that you are master, and that he must obey you at alt times; that he must go where you direct ; that he must not be on the watch for something frightful. If he sees anything at which to shy, he will turn iiis head towanls it, when you should give the o})posite rein a sharp pull, which will attract his attention from the object, and prevent him frcmi turning out of the track. Your voice should nev- er .shoAv fear, nor irrital)ility, but should he firm and de- cisive. Always carry a good whip with such horses and if they do not come to the rein, give them a sharp cut with it (m the side opposite the oI)ject. The bit I use throws the horse's head up so his attention is attracted from .small objects by the use of it. Some horses shy only from want of exercise, and will n(.t after having bee n driven a short time. A good cut with the whip will, in this case, be of more service than anything else. A horse should learn that he should not play wliile in the harneas. If he is allowed to do so he is unsafe to drive, by any but experienced horsemen. A boy or wo- man can not drive him, for it reipiiresa strong arm to control a playing horse, and lie knows whether such have hold of the reins, and will ever take advantage un- less well broken. TO S.MIDI/E A C(»LT. Some colts will liecome accustomed to the use of the .saddle readily, and with comparatively little trouble to the trainer, while others are very troul)lesome and re- quire a vast amount of handling. In such cases, have the guard put on and held so that the colt can not get 26 SCIENCE OF nORSE TRAINING. away. Take the .saddle in your hand, let him smell of it, rub him with it along the sides, until he will stand' to have it tossed upon his back. Draw the girt up a lit- tle at a time until he will let you draw it no tight without flinching. Now draw the guard up short, take the reins i)i;tweeii your thumb and finger, drawing the off rein abt)ut six inches -.shorter than the other, which will. make him turn his head from you, so he can not start ahead. When you raise yourself into the saddle or .stirrup, if he tries to start, pull his head around to his .shf)uldcr, aad step down on the ground until he gets quiet, and ag.ain raise yourself in the stirup, until he will allow you to put your knee over his back. If he .starts, pull his head around quick, and he will not move much. Let him feel your whole weight in the saddle, and with some colt'^ you will h;ive little more trouble, while others are still not broken. With such, lengthen out the guard aid hitch him to a well broken horse, by the leg, as you would to lead a colt ar.d ride a horse, as spoken of before. 1 generally take him away from home, riding the broken horse and leading the colt by his side until he becomes accustomed to seeing a person above him while in motion. Ride four or five miles out on a walk, if necessary. Remove the guard as soon as he gets so he will go quiet at your side, and will let your foot touch him without flinching. When you start ])ack place tln" guard on again, and mount him. While he is fast to the other horse, and the guard is on, he can not run, rear ncu' plunge about, the guard preventing that, and the other horse making him go. One of my ovcr-dr.aw safety-reins is the best to ride a colt or horse with, as it makes him carry a graceful head and neck. After you have ridden the colt half a mile, or such a matter, dismount and take the guard off to let your colt rest a few moments. Mount again without replacing the guard. After he gets to going quietly, have some cue ride the broke horse and take them apart. Watch KCIEN'CE O't' IlORSti TRAIMKQ. 1^7 your colt closely, and if he gets friglitened and tries to jump, or ruii,4)ull his head around to one side quick, and hold it there until he gives up. If he tries to go in a diflferent direction fri.ui what you wish, and will not follow the rein, pull his head around sideways so he can iiot step to one side. When he gets his head turned the way you want him to go, let the rein loose until he gets started. The best way is to ride hinv two or three times in company with the horse you broke him witii, and if he gets restive or unmanagable, put the lead-straps on again. TO SHOK A KICKING HOKSE. Place the guard on. If you are alone you should han' die the foot and make him stand on three legs, by pull- ing the h-ind leg up to the fore knee. You can take hold of the rope that is fastened to the Iiind leg, with f)ue hand, and hold the rope after it is passed through the ring on the tore leg ; raise the hind foot a few tinns !)y the rope. If he tries to kick you hold him by the other end of the rope, which you can do bj^ stef)pirig behind him. After he submits to have iiis foot han- it of bitiiig amounts almost to a species of madness, or insanity. I have overcome this great impediment to the agreeable- ness of taking care of horses, by a very simple means, after trying and exhausting every other method I eould hear of. By learning the horse that his head or nose goes into the air when you cry "Take care," with per- severance you can break up the habit. My plan is this: Stand in front or to one side of the horse and prevent him from biting yon, procuring first a small Idt made to fit the roof of tiu' Uioutli. (N. B. — I always keep them on hand.) Put on an over-draw check, passing the over- draw through a loop fastened on the top of the halter, with the bit in the mouth. Let the bit be fastened .so there will be no danger of its dropping from the mouth. This bit will not prevent the horse from eating or drinking. Next, put on a surcingle, with a ring on tlu; toj) of the back Pass the end of the over-draw through this ring and let it hang down by his side, hav- ing it long enough to permit his nose to reach the floor. Have a leather on the end of the strap so it will not drop from the ring on the surcingle. As you come up to the side of the horse, take hold of the strap, if the horse snaps at you or lears give the strajj a sharp pull, and cry, "Take care!" You can draw his head up so it will be impossible for him to bite. It is something he does not understand but he will soon learn its object. The worst biting horse can be lead by passing the end of the lead-rein through the ring of the bit and fasten- ing it to the end of the over-draw, after the latter ha» been passed through the ring on the back. TO THROW A HOUSE. As this is very often necessary in surgical operations I will give the easiest way of doing it — one in which SCIENCE OP HOUSE TRAINING. 29 no risk will he run of injuring the horse, as is very frequently done by Harey's plan, as well as by other methods. I throw a horse in the same manner in which he lies down of his own accord. If a horse wishes to lie on his left side, he steps his left hind foot forward, and toward the right fore foot, and then drops on his knees and is down. To force ahorse down, place a rope or strap around the neck where the collar comes, loose enough so it will not choke the horse, run the end be- tAveen the fore legs, through a ring fastened to the left hind pastern; from there to one around the right fore pastern, and the end over the back. Now strap up the nigh fore foot and take hold of the rope with one hand and pull on it, which will l)ringhim on his knees, and draw his hind foot urder him, which prevents him from rearing, as he will when thrown by Karey's method, or the more inhuman way of pulling the animal's head around to its shoulder by a cord attached to the under jaw, which strains his neck and throws him very vio- lently some times. By my method, a colt unless he is very hard to handle, can be made to lie down in a double Ntall without danger of hurting him. KEMARKS OK CASTRATINa INHERE are differences of opinion as to the mode and time of castrating. I buve traveled through tlie coun try for the last tliirteen years and njade a business of castrating, and I find, by experience, and eh)so oI>serva tion, tliat the most approved method is that of chinip' ing, or using two pieces of timber to fasten the cord. The best time is at tlie age of one, as a colt operated on at that time makes the most perfect horse, yet, there is no danger in castrating the animal at any age provided his blood is pure, and care is taken not to give him too much pain. The only danger is in drawing his feet from under him by means of a rope around the pasterns ■which brings all the strain (mthe loins. The operation of castrating should be performed by competent hands, after which the person who takes oif the clamps should pass his fingers around the cord and loosen it from the membrane to which it sometimes adheres, and it will readily draw up, unless it has been strained to in- jure its elasticity, and in such cases it will be necessary to apply some powerful medicine, such as the Black Oil recommended in this work, which will take it back to its place. There are but few persons who know how to stop the blood where a horse is castrated, if he gets to bleeding from any cause. Sometimes the veins on the cord get ruptured, and sometimes the cord itself gets torn, and 1 have known many instances in which colts have bled VvEMAKKS ON CASTRATING. 81 to (l(^•\th, liocraiso tboir ownors were ignorant of a meth- od .-)f .stopping th( in from l)}ecding. This may be done by any one in a f(!\v nionients by putting on the guard to hold the coJt still, with raw cotton batting. Crowd tli(! cotton into the cut around the cord, and draw the outside skin tight over it, putting on a clamp to lioid the edges together. Let it remain on from twenty-four to forty-eight iiours, acco'-ding to the age of the horse. If the l)lood rUi.s up, causing it to swell much, rub it with eamphejie liniment — a liniu)cnt every horse owner should have V)y him. I give a recipe for its maiuifacture in tliis book. If the cord bleeds when the cotton is re- moved, try and take up the vein ; if you can not do it, put more cotton in and go after some one wlio can. I n(>ver knew a case which could not Ije stopped by one application of the cotton, or needed any further care af- ter it was removed. The parts should be washed with .sour nnlk before the rianoval of the cotton. Care must nhvays betaken to keep the cord loose from the skin, as it must not be allowed to grow fa.st. This has l)een neglected I>y miiny horse raisers, on account of the trou- ble encountered in handling the colt without throwing him, Imt my invention of the "Guard" will do away v/ith that inconvenience, as any one can cut of the clamps by cutting the strings on eacli end and prying the sticks apart. Be careful in taking olT the clamps not to pull down on tlie cord, as it is apt to hang down if pulled when it is sore. Any one desiring the services of tlie author of this work, may address him at his residence, at Berlin, Green Lake couiity, Wisconsin, stating their place of residence. He will come, for the sum of ten dollars, to any place within fifty miles, to castrate, where there are ten colts at one phice. My method of casting is ex- pliiined in this work, rolling the colt on his back to su])port his loins, to castrate. if my direct-ions are strictly followed after castrating, • I warrant the doiiig well of each colt. HINTS ON BREAKING STEERS. Place them in a small inclosure from whicli they can not escape. Procure a half-inch rope twenty feet long and make a running noose at one end of it. Lay it in one corner of the yard and drive your steers over it until one of them steps his nigli fore foot into it ; then jerk it up around the leg, below the knee. After you catch the animal, if he is vicious, you can stand on the fence, or outside the yard and hold the rope until lie gives up, or lead him up to a post and get liis mate beside him. But if not vicious, get into the yard with a good bow whip and follow him around a few times, holding him back so that he can not go faster than a walk. After he goes quiet, come up to his side, within reach of his nose, and say, "Whoa," and stroke him lightly on the nose, at the same time pulling on the rope attached to his leg, standing as near behind him as your whip will admit of When he becomes quiet go up to his shoulder and pat him on the side If he starts away touch him on the nose and draw him up with the rojie as before. Use the whip as little as possible and make him mind. After your subject will stand to be caressed start him ahead by a light blow with the whip around the iianks. Let him walk around the yard a few times, turning him to the left. When you turn him touch him HIKTS ON BREAKING STEERS 33 lightly with the whip on the near shoulder, whicli will learn him to turn toward the whip. If he refuses to turn toward you, you have the power to compel him to do so by pulling his leg sideways. When you touch him with the whip keep him turning toward the left and say, "Haw," not "Whoa," until he learns that •' Haw" means to turn to the left, and "Wlioa," means to stop and stand still. When he learns to stop readily at the word " Whoa," and to turn readily to the left at the word " Haw," place the rope on the off fore leg arid go through the same process, saying "Gee," when you Turn him to the right. Always touch the ahimal on the shoulder on the same side as the direction you wish him to tui-n. After you have learned him to turn readily Avith the rope, lay it over his back and make him go through the exercise with the whip alone. If he gets unruly, or ol^stinate you can catch the rope and jerk him up. Now hang a bow upon his neck and drive him with it on ; then hang a cliaiu on and let the ends drag. You should also learn him to stand around when you have the rojie on by stepping around behind him and drawing the rope around his gambrels j nd pulling him sideways, as by standing on the off side, with the rope fa.stened to the nigh fore leg, drawing across the hind leg. Learn him to back by drop23ing the rope close to his foot, standing behind and pulling his foot under him, and giving him a light stroke across the upper part of fore leg, saying, "Back," which will soon learn him to back readily at that word. Drive the animal out of the yard, place hjm by himself, and put a guard on him in the same manner as you would on a horse, making it rather short. Caress, and give him some- thing to eat, and allow him to rest a little while, first putting on and taking off the yoke a few times. Train the animal intended for the off side first. Now get the nigh one in the yard and go through the same exercises as with the first. W^hen that one is well tamed, length- en the guard on the off animal and drive him into the 34 HINTS ON BKEAKING STEERS. yard again. Then shorten the guard so he can not step and pnt the yoke on. Let tlie end rest on the ground. Walk around him and earess him while in this position. The guard will prevei.t liim from whirling around with the yoke, as they will .sometimes do, if no precaution is taken against it. After the off ox will submit to have the end of the yoke held up and dropp-EVIL. Take garden rue one pound, and a half a pound of lard ; simmer tog-ether, strain and cool. Put one table- spoonful in each ear of a horse for six days, until the sore is loosened ; tlien dress with green ointment. FISTULA. After the pipe is formed insert a needle at the top and ran it out at the bottom, and draw or* pour through, while warm the green ointment. BOG OR BLOOD SPAVIN. Saturate a woolen cloth with the Indian liniment and bind around the joint ; rub hard with the hand eye i y day. SPLINTS. — RINGBONE SPAVINS. Two oz. each of oil of spike, oil organum, British oil, oil smoke and oil of amber. Mix well together, bathe and heat in. WINDGALLS. Take a piece of leather, drive it full of tacks one fourth of an inch apart, nail the heads on a piece of wood, make the horse bear his weight on it, drive the nail8 into the puff, bandage it with linen rags dipped in camphene liniment. CONDITION POWDERS. One pound comfrey root, half pound antimony, half pound sulphur, three ounces salti^etre, half pound laurel berries, half pound juniper berries, half pound anise seed, half pound rosin, three ounces alum, half pound copperas, half pound masterwort, half pound gun pow- der. Mix all to powder, feed once a day, keej) the Donald's practical recipes. 37 horse dry, a.id from cold water for six hours after using it. SADDLE, OR COLLAR LINIMENT. Spirits of turi^entine half oz., oil of spike half oz., eastilc soap half oz., gum camphor half oz., sulphur eth- er half oz., ess. wormwood half oz., alchohol half pint. Wash freely. STIFLE SPRAINS. Boil half a bushel of white oak bark, add half a ])ound of alum, when cold add the whites of a dozen eggs and a handful of salt. Bathe well. FLATULENT COLIC. Give soap and new milk. TO TAKE A FILM FROM THE EYE. Take sugar and salt in equal parts; pulverize tine and blow in the eye, and melt fresh butter and put in the LAMPASS. Prick with a sharp knife until they bleed. SCRATCHES. Give the horse sassafras tea with a little saltpetre, and dress with green ointment. FOUNDER OR STIFFS. Bleed in the cornet ring with a small fleam half an inch above the hoof, the vein will be found from three to five inches from the point of the heel cord as in any other vein. Take one quart of blood from each foot and tie human manure on the bit, to be changed as oft- en as the horse gets it off for twenty-four hours. TO STOP BLEEDING. Where the bleeding part can not be tied up, burnt 38 Donald's pkacticai. recipe*;. copperas finely pulverized should be I>>un(l oit')it.. GREEN OINTMENT. For the cure of burns, w ounds and old sores, on man or beast, this ointment will effect more cures than any other. Care must be taken not to let it burn wliile making. Rosin two oz., beeswax two oz., white pine pitch four oz. ; melt them and add half a pound of lard, and half oz. finely ground verdigris. TO CURE SCAI.D HEAD ON CHILDREN. To be rubbed on once a day until cured : One pound fresh butter, heat hot, add two ounces burgundy pitch, two oz. spirits turpentine. Simmer all together, and when cool, add of red precipitate one oz., golden litli- arge one oz. TO CURE SWEENY IN HORSES. When first done, take one pound smoked bacon chop- ped fine, the whites of four eggs, three tablespoonsfal of salt; heat so as to melt the grease. Rul) on when the disease is of long standing, so as to shrink the shoulder. Cut a slit ia the skia at tlie top of the shrunk flesh, so as to put in a tablespoonful of salt. Let it re- main ten days; then insert a seton at the bottom: as soon as it discharges, cut it. Cure effectual. TO CURE CORNS ON HORSES. Pare the hoof until you can see the corn, which is of a reddish color. Put on spirits of salts, and dress with green ointment. Wood ashes, and common salt wet with water, will stop cracks in stoves. TO GET RID OF RED ANTS, Sprinkle the place they infest with ground coffee. Donald's practical recipes. 39 to get rid of rats. Put nitric acid in the holts through whi(h they pass in and out. TO PRESERVE FENCE POSTS. Dip the end you insert in the ground, in a solution of IjIuc vitriol. TO PRESERVE POTATOES. Tiike thcisethat are sound and kiln dry th(m and put in a dry place. Scotch snufi' put in the hole "where crickets come out will destroy them. TO CUKE CHILBLAINS. Rubwitli green ointment. TO CURE BURNS AND SCALDS. Wrap uj) the part i)urned iji green ointment si)read on linen cloth.s. TO CURE CURBS ON HORSES. The Indian liniment should be used heating it in. BLACK OIL. For the cure of old sores, proudflesh and sjjrains. Two oz. oil of vitriol, one gill spirits of turpentine, one l^int winter strained oil, one beeves' gall. Putinto a thick glass bottle. TO CURE THE AGUE FEVER. Take one pill of tar every night until cured. INDIAN LINIMENT. Cures rheumatism, sj^rains, numbness, headache and. toothache. Two ozs. spirits heartshorn, one oz camphor gum, one oz. oil spike, one oz. organum, one oz. amber, 40 Donald's practical recipes. one oz oil peppermint, one oz. British oil, one oz. beeves' gall, one quart alchohol. Shake together and warm by the fire twelve hours, in a stone jug. FEVER AND AGUE. Quinine thirty grains, prussiate of iron and sulphate of iron eight grains, cayenne pepper sixty grains ; mix well. Divide tlie above into si.\ doses, and give one powder every three hours until four are taken, then give one the next morning. In all cases give of the bitters, after the powders are taken, a teaspoonful three times a day. To make^the bitters, take twelve grains alloes, fifteen grains quinine, prussiate of iron four grains, cayenne pepper thirty grains. Put into a pint of brandy and shake well. cough syrup. One oz. sweet spirits nitre, one oz. elixer of vitriol, one oz.laudnum, half pound clarified honey. Take a teaspoonful three times a day. TO REPAIR BROKEN GLASS. Dissolve isinglass in gin ; make the broken parts warm ; dip theiu in the liquid and tie them up for some time. Good, fresh yeast is a sovereign remedy when taken internally, for putrid sore throat, scarlet fever and dip- theria. TO cure cancer. Take a quantity of red oak bark and burn to ashes, to this add water, and boil to the consistency of molasses. Apply to the part affected and leave on for an hour. Afterward cover the plaster with tar ; remove in a few days. If protuberances appear on the wound apply the Donald's practical rkcipks. 41 plaster and tar alternatfly until they all disappear, af- ter which apply any healing- salve. BKK STIN