£93 
 
 Copyright^ L 
 
 COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 
 
Lody 
 
 Mr. Frank C. Clark 
 
40,000 MILES 
 AROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 A PERSONAL NARRATIVE OF THE EXPERIENCES 
 
 AND IMPRESSIONS OF AN ENERGETIC 
 
 TRAVELLER WHO CROSSED 
 
 THE EQUATOR AND THE 
 
 ARCTIC CIRCLE IN 
 
 THE TOUR. 
 
 BY 
 GEO. T. BUSH, 
 BELLEFONTE, 
 PENNA. 
 
Copyrighted 1911, 
 By 
 GEO. T. BUSH. 
 
 K° 
 
 *Vi 
 
 lb 
 
 Howard Hustler Print, 
 Howard, Pa. 
 
 
 ©CI. A 2976 18 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 This account of my trip of Forty Thousand Miles Around the 
 World was thought of and written after my return home at the re- 
 quest of many friends and is a personally written history of my own 
 experiences and deductions. I trust it will prove of interest to many, 
 it is written more to give one an idea of what the world is, in run- 
 ning around it, and gi v e many hints to those who anticipate journ- 
 eys of the kind in the future; than to give just a recital of the regu- 
 lar objects of interest which can be found in many guide books of 
 all sorts. 
 
 It was written mostly from memory and during odd hours, and I 
 hope the many inaccuracies will be pardoned. I dedicated the book 
 to Mr. Frank Clark, for the simple reason it all was 
 made possible only through him to have such a fine time, and see 
 so much in such an easy and comfortable manner and at a low cost. 
 He accomplished something that has never been done before though 
 it has been tried many times, and spared no expense to give his pas- 
 senger tourists an enjoyable time as far as lay within his power. 
 
 Had I known what the task would be before I began, I would 
 never have started the story, but have tried to accomplish some- 
 thing despite the many difficulties that have arisen and trust it will 
 be interesting, and appreciated for what it is worth. Pardon the typo- 
 graphy, through unavoidable circumstances. 
 
 The illustrations are from photographs taken by myself and 
 members of the cruise for which thanks are here given for their as- 
 sistance. I also wish to thank Dr. Phillips, Mr. H. H. Herschberger, 
 Mr. Junkin and others for some of the helps given me in the way of 
 data etc. GEO. T. BUSH, 
 
 Sept. 1911. , Bellefonte, Pa. 
 
THIS BOOK IS RESPECTFULLY 
 DEDICATED TO MY FRIEND Mr. FRANK 
 C. CLARK THROUGH WHOSE ENERGY 
 AND FORESIGHT THE FORE PART OF 
 THE TOUR WAS MADE SO PLEASANT. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 •Chapter. Page, 
 
 I Westward Ho, 1 
 
 II Off on the Pacific, 6 
 
 III Honolulu, 12 
 
 IV Yokohoma 20 
 
 V Tokio, Kamakura and Nikko 25 
 
 VI Kobe. Osaka and Kioto, 31 
 
 VII Inland Sea and Nagasaki, 38 
 
 VIII Canton and Hongkong, 45 
 
 IX The Phillipines, 52 
 
 X Borneo and Across the Equato r, 59 
 
 XI Java and Singapore, 67 
 
 XII Rangoon in Burma. 73 
 
 XIII Calcutta, 78 
 
 XIV Custom and caste in India » 86 
 
 XV Ceylon, 90 
 
 XVI Agra and The Taj Mahal, 98 
 
 XVII Bombay and the Red Sea 107 
 
 XVIII Cairo, 113 
 
 XIX Jerusalem, 123 
 
 XX Jaffa to Constantinople 131 
 
 XXI Athens to Naples, 138 
 
 XXII Rome to Venice, 143 
 
 XXIII Venice to Oberammagau 149 
 
 XXIV Vienna to Stockholm, 155 
 
 XXV The Land of the Midnight Sun, 160 
 
 XXVI Copenhagen to London via Holland and Paris, .. 165 
 
 XXVII Around Great Britain and Home, 169 
 
 Poems 174 
 
 Personals. Notes and Lists, etc. 177 
 
 Roster, 184 
 
"WESTWARD HO" 
 
 CHAPTER i. 
 
 The narrative will run from the time of leaving home on 
 Jan. 15, 1910, with snow two feet deep on the ground, traveling west- 
 ward across the United States, passing through of three winters and 
 summers in the same season of the year, covering 40000 miles of sea 
 and land, until my return home six months and ten days later. 
 
 I tarried a couple of days in Pittsburg visiting friends and say- 
 ing adieus to many of my Masonic acquaintances, and from there went 
 to Cincinnati in an uneventful trip, and spent the day there with a 
 friend, leaving there over the Louisville and Nashville road for two 
 nights and a day trip to New Orleans. The events of that trip were 
 not very interesting, except the stalling of the train during the 
 night a couple of times, and the leaving of a poor brakeman, who 
 had been sent back to flag; to hoof it back to the nearest station be- 
 cause the train, after it finally got started could not stop to pick him 
 up again. 
 
 Birmingham, Alabama, the iron city of the South was passed 
 through early in the evening, and was as interesting a sight as Pitts- 
 burg only on a smaller scale; the fiery glows from the furnaces anil 
 slag piles, making the country around about look like a small section 
 of Dante's Inferno. The valuable feature of the iron industry then 
 is the fact that the iron ore, limestone and coal, are all within a 
 short distances of the furnace they using their own small tram 
 loads to bring the raw materials to the furnaces. The 
 
 city had several high office buildings. It seemed strange to see 
 large twelve and fifteen story office buildings in any city in the south 
 and shows the wonderful progress and growth that the south has 
 made in commercial lines in the last decade or so. 
 
 We arrived at New Orleans the next morning at seven after cross- 
 ing through the swamps of the extensive Mississippi delta, and the tour 
 of looking over that interesting city, of which there is none other 
 like it in the United States began. Trade must be done on the slow 
 3asy going plan of eat, drink, talk and visit for awhile before business 
 xs thought of and the person who tries to change that order 
 of things and rush it through, will find himself coming out at the 
 shorter end of the horn as far as business is concerned. 
 
 The things of most interest to me were the old shops with their 
 stacks of curious, all claimed to be ancient, but many of them mod- 
 ern, relics of the Spanish and Andrew Jackson days, the fine oil 
 
paintings, dishes, flags, arms, furniture, documents of various sorts 
 ^11 of historical interest. The old slave market in what was once a 
 iiiagnificient building called the Hotel Royal, later Hotel St. Louis, 
 xiow a ruin, where probably Uncle Tom of Harriet Beecher Stowe's 
 -animus uook, was auctioned off to Simon Legree on the very block 
 /-hat is slill intact, which is shown to visitors as the original one that 
 nas been there for ninety years. The Hotel was built in 1816 and en- 
 lenained many noted people. The narrow streets in the quarter of 
 me city known as the French quarter copied after the narrow streets 
 oi Paris bring the old parts of Paris to mind and more vividly so 
 when you hear the French gab ble on every hand, though many, 
 principally the younger element, can now speak English also. Oth- 
 or things of interest were the French market, and particularly the 
 cemeteries of 3New Orleans, the old ones, very much delapidated but 
 oi great interest on account of their being built above the ground. 
 i'he bodies were put into oven like vaults built in the low buildings 
 and Mansoleums and around the thick walls. I noticed the tombs 
 ui several Penna. people, soldiers and sailors who had died on ships 
 and of fever during the war of 1812 and one in particular of a Lan- 
 caster county, Penna., born lady who had lived to the age of 125 
 years, and in that fever stricken country. 
 
 There are many other points of interest of the usual order in 
 cities, in the nature of public buildings, which it is not necessary to 
 '-numerate here. I visited a commandery meeting of Knights Temp- 
 lar on Friday evening the 21st and met many of the business and 
 professional people of the city and spent a very pleasant evening; on 
 Saturday evening a meeting of the Nobles of the Mystic Shrine at 
 which thirty-five candidates were initiated and a merry time was 
 had until nearly three A. M., before the gathering finally dispersed. 
 There was many visitors present from various states and we were 
 royally entertained and received. They were getting ready to receive 
 the annual meeting of the Imperial Shrine which was to take place 
 m April, and the slogan used, which was printed in large red letters 
 L>n placards all over the city was "Glad U Kom". My friend Free- 
 iand Kendrick of Lulu Temple, Philadelphia was elected into the line 
 jf succession for Potentate of the United States at that session in 
 April. He was also present on the evening of our session. 
 
 The next day. Sunday at noon we took the train on the Southern 
 Paciffic railway, and was ferried across the Mississippi for the 
 long ride across the continent westward. When we arrived at New 
 Ibernia, Louisanna, the train was an hour and a half late and we heard 
 the sad news that a traveling man who had been waiting to take the 
 train had been stabbed to death by a rum crazed nigger running a 
 muck, showing how a little thing may change a life, for if the train 
 had of been on time he would have been aboard and his life would 
 have been saved. The train ride was interesting through this coun- 
 try on account of the great Cyprus brake, that fine southern lumber 
 
that is used so much down there, and also the sugar cane fields with 
 their railroads and mills dotting the flat landscape for miles around. 
 
 The next point of interest was San Antonio, Texas, now a large 
 prosperous city, containing the famous "Alamo" of Davy Crocket 
 fame,kept in a good state of presevation as is possible. The train 
 waited a couple of hours there, so time was had to visit the inter- 
 esting relic of the days when Texas fought for her Independence. 
 
 The train then sped on through the great veldt of western Texas 
 with its sand and sage brush, to El ]\i:>o on the bordfrland of Mex- 
 ico, a prosperous city, very much American now, with its huge smelt- 
 ers of the metalic ores from neighboring states, Ten minutes ride 
 takes you to Juarez across the bolder into old Mexico where bull 
 fights take i>:noe, murders are often committed, and is as entirely dif- 
 ferent as could be from El Paso. Gambling of all sorts flourishes and 
 the mea: sbops sell you the beef of the bulls and horses killed in 
 the bull fights. 
 
 From El Paso the train runs across southern New Mexico and Ari- 
 zona, a small part of it through some pretty mountain scenery along 
 The Rio Grande River, over bridge 321 feet high and 2100 feet long, 
 until it reaches the tableland where you get the sand storms and those 
 marvelous mirages that have been the death of so many weary trav- 
 elers. They lead him into the desert waste never to return alive, his 
 bones finding a lonely grave covered over by the next sand storm 
 that comes along. The mirages we saw were very beautiful, looking 
 like pretty lakes of blue water with trees and islands, and a little 
 imagination helped you to see people and houses also, a 
 truly pretty picture to draw the weary wanderer on to his death. 
 Between the windstorms and the suction of the train, the obser- 
 vation platform on the rear of the Sunset express often had from six 
 inches to a foot of sand on it. We were very glad to finally reach Cal 
 ifornia which we did on Wednesday the 23rd passing that famous Sal- 
 ton sea, 60 by 90 miles in extent; that body of land below sea level 
 that the Southern Pacific R. R. Co. had inadverently turned the Colo- 
 rado river into, and for a year or so could not stop it. It has final- 
 ly been stopped and it is now again gradually drying up, in no place is 
 it very deep, but it covers a great many square miles of land most of 
 which was desert before, so that no great damage was done. 
 
 We arrived at Los Angeles, California, in the afternoon and spent 
 until the following Monday with friends visiting that interesting and 
 growing city with its typical western hustle and the beautiful sur- 
 rounding country, with its square miles of deciduous fruits and other 
 tropical fruits and plants, that is making a garden spot out of that 
 portion of the United States. There would be a much greater show- 
 ing here but the railroad trusts have that country throttled and bound 
 hand and foot. Until the country wakes up and takes those matters 
 in hand the growth will be only a small portion of what this garden 
 spot might become with irrigation and reasonable R. R. rates. All 
 the way from and including New Orleans to Los Angeles we had 
 
fine lale spring weather, trees and flowers were in full bloom, or- 
 anges were being picked and only a week before winter and snow in 
 the north we now had summer, but that was soon to change again for 
 leaving Lo& Angeles on Monday the 31st it became cold and some 
 skiffs of snow, and an overcoat was very acceptable in San Francisco. 
 While in Los Angelos we took many interesting automobile rides 
 including the famous Busch Sunken Gardens, also the sea beach. 
 which has quite a nice but small Atlantic City, there named Venice, 
 One particular thing visited that was interesting, was the large os- 
 Lrich farm where they have several hundred fine birds, many of 
 them very large, weighing three hundred pounds, and the more fa- 
 mous ones named after prominent people. There is quite an indus- 
 try, many hands being employed, mostly girls and Japs cleaning and 
 scouring and dying feathers, there are many beautiful ones. This is 
 only a branch farm here, one back in the country having, it is said, 
 two thousand birds. The finest feathers called plumes come from 
 the wing and only a few from a bird, the birds are plucked every 
 three months, the feathers growing very rapidly. 
 
 The old mission church built in 1781 is also very interesting with 
 curious paintings all round. The one old main altar was brought 
 from Italy and is very well preserved. 
 
 Their new park, that is being built in Los Angelos, promises to be 
 a fine one in a few years. At the base of the hill on which the park 
 is situated is the famous pigeon farm with what is said to be a million 
 pigeons flying around, we were told that it takes a couple of car loads 
 of grain a week to feed them. 
 
 I went up the coast line of th e Southern Pacific passing the spot 
 where so many of my Reading Shriner friends had been killed in 
 that awful wreck, one of whom was so well known in Bellefonte be- 
 ing a relative of Mr. Keller, namely: George Hagerman, of Reading, 
 Pa. For quite a distance the coast line is rugged and rather pret- 
 ty- It is full days ride from Los Angelos to San Francisco. 
 
 Not having been in San Francisco since the Earthquake and hav- 
 ing remembered it very well before I was very much surprised and 
 pleased to see what a beautiful city had crept from out of the ruins 
 there was hardly a familiar spot left of the flat quarter of the city 
 at all, but was thickly rebuilded with many handsome business 
 structures. The fire still showed the dreadful havoc it had created 
 in the many vacant lots and ruins that lay on the hills surrounding 
 that district but it was also dotted with new structures and no 
 doubt in a few short years every trace of that dreadful catastrophe 
 will have disappeared and San Francisco will have greatly benefit- 
 ed. Nearly all the new structures are both fireproof and earthquake 
 proof, steel construction having shown its ability to withstand the 
 earthquakes in the few buildings that was undamaged by the shock 
 but partially destroyed by the intense heat of the inflamable build- 
 ings that adjoined them. 
 
The old evil smelling narrow streets of China Town are gone and 
 in its place the new China Town has well built fireproof buildings 
 mostly of Chinese architecture. Whether the many under ground 
 passages of the old Chinatown, are in existance, in the new, is a 
 problem, but it is much safer there now than it was then. Guides 
 show you a few points of interest but there is nothing thrilling in 
 the present day excursion. A new dive quarter has sprung up in an 
 other section of the city named, "The Barbary Coast" where all 
 the dance and drink halls thrive, but a person can go through them 
 in comparative safety and not bernolested, except by the girls, if he 
 minds his own business. The Gold-Gate Park trip is the one of most 
 interest and is a very pretty ride around by the sight seeing trolley, 
 
CHAP TER II. 
 
 OFF ON THE PACIFIC. 
 
 On the morning of the 5th of February a suppressed excitement 
 was noticed for that was the day we all were to sail on our long voy- 
 age, at 2 o'clock in the aftternoon The hustle began right after break- 
 fast, people loaded up the busses and cabs and hurried away to the 
 wharf to look after the baggage and get it put away, say the long 
 farewells, etc., The crowd began collecting about ten o'clock in the 
 morning and kept increasing until it was conservatively estimated that 
 when the "Cleveland" finally pulled not there were over fifteen thou- 
 sand people to cheer her off, with seven hundred and fifty-two tour- 
 ists on board who were leaving the shores of the U. S. A., for from 
 five months to several years, some never to return again in life. 
 
 The vessel was stuck pretty deep in the mud being one of the lar- 
 gest draught vessels that had ever been in the harbor, the captain 
 after trying quietly a couple of times to move her ordered full speed 
 astern and then the mud began to churn and make the water like 
 molasses, and in a short time thevessel moved slowly backward from 
 her mud berth and was soon out in the bay and turned westward 
 towards the beautiful Golden Gate, through which we passed in a 
 eouple of hours toward our first stop Honolulu, nearly seven days 
 journey away. 
 
 Not very long after the Golden Gate was passed quite a swell was 
 encountered, and the boat as Iargeas she was began to roll and plunge 
 and before very long a heavy side wind also came up, and then 
 the misery began for most of the passengers, a few of us were not 
 sick in the least, but for two or three days the dining table was not a 
 popular place at all, sometimes not more than two or three out of 
 our table of ten appearing, and many tables had nobody at all at them, 
 
 "I would like to quote with the kind permission of my friend P. 
 S. Junkin, of Creston, Iowa, the following: 
 
 The first day called up gravest thoughts that made me nervous heart- 
 ed. 
 
 The next day called up memories of friends from whom I parted. 
 
 The third day called to mind the land where one is safely carted. 
 
 The fourth day called up everything I'd eaten since I started." 
 
The following poems apropos of Uie trip across the Pacific was 
 written and read by Mr. Loren A Sherman at a Travellers Club meet- 
 ing- 
 
 OUT UN i tiE PACIFIC. 
 
 Out, through the rocL hung Golden Gate, 
 
 Our ship sails wiih its human freight. 
 Astern, faint in the twilight ray. 
 
 The hillset city fades away; 
 And at its farthest western strand 
 
 Good byes we speak to our loved land. 
 Thus, launched upon a trackless sea, 
 
 A world encircling company; 
 While waves run high and many feel 
 
 Seclusion suited to their weal. 
 Soon, southward merrily we go 
 
 Where softened tropic breezes blow. 
 Till, fair to our enraptured eyes. 
 
 Hawia's mountain islands rise; 
 A banner no injustice mars. 
 These gems, set in a Summer sea, 
 
 Give welcome to us royally. 
 In mellow airs, perfumes with flowers. 
 
 We while away the fleeting hours, 
 Until, too soon, we sail away 
 
 For quaint Japan and far Cathay. 
 
 As he states the chronology is not exactly accurate but the de- 
 scription w r as to the letter, of most of those on board. The boat- 
 was perfectly seaworthy but just tossed and rolled enough to frigh— 
 ten many. In a few days many of the passengers were able to get a 
 round and begin to make each others acquaintance, for it was to be 
 really a big house party of nearly four months duration and the more 
 you were acquainted the more pleasant the voyage would be. The 
 ship was chartered by Frank C. Clark of New York, the one who has 
 for fifteen years conducted so successfully the fine Mediterranean 
 cruises, and was a stupendous undertaking involving the handling of 
 several millions of dollars. The great steamship companies and oth- 
 er tourists agencies have tried time and again to carry a specially 
 chartered ship for tourists around the w r orld, but have failed, and it 
 i vmainod for Mr. Clark, the king of them all, to do so for the first 
 time successfully. 
 
 The ordinary tours of the world are in small parties and have none 
 <>f the conveniences and luxuries of a great steamship fixed up spec- 
 ially for that purpose, doing away with all baggage and landing troub- 
 les and the many changes required in all sorts of vessels. 
 
 Mr. Clark did all he could to make everybody as comfortable as pos 
 sible all through the ship; to take 750 people from their homes all 
 
over the United States, nearly ev(ry state and nearly every condi- 
 tion being represented, around the world, land them at the different 
 places, give the carriage, rickshaw and other rides, visiting all points 
 of interest in the places visited as well as many inland trips, keeping 
 them where possible at hotels, the best on shore, providing all the 
 guides etc., and bring all through satisfied was indeed a wonderful 
 undertaking and worthy of great commendation. On board there 
 was not a day passed that there was not something going on, card 
 parties, lectures, experience meetings, dances, etc., something to en- 
 tertain all the time. 
 
 As there was only seating capacity for four hundred people in 
 the two dining rooms the meals were served in two sittings each, 
 the breakfasts 7;30 and 8;30, the two lunches 12 and 1 o'clock, and 
 the evening dinners 5:30 and 7 o'clock respectively, while at 
 eleven A. M. bouillion and salt wafers, and at three P. M. hot or 
 cold tea and cakes, and then the night lunch of sandwiches,. 
 
 A little German Band played on deck in the mornings, and alter- 
 nated in the dining rooms in the evenings, and a very fine orchestra 
 played in the ladies parlor in the afternoon and for the entertain- 
 ments in the evenings. 
 
 The officers and crew numbered about four hundred and fifty, so 
 that it made a small town population, of about twelve hundred souls 
 on board. The large majority of the officers and crew tried their 
 best to make everything comfortable and pleasant, as possible to do, 
 for such a large lot of people in such a small space, as it seemed, 
 but to which all soon adjusted themselves. There were six decks let- 
 tered A. B. G. D. E. F. ,and a top deck with an awning covering be- 
 sides, E. and F. were down near water line, parts or all the oth- 
 ers were open at some points on the vessel. But as large as all 
 these decks were, when all the party had steamer chairs, they were 
 pretty well filled up. 
 
 There were two smoking rooms and three parlors, which in the 
 main was plenty, for as we soon got in the tropics nearly all wish- 
 ed to be outside most of the time. A fine steam laundry was equip- 
 ped on the ship, the only traveling one of its kind in the world. 
 
 Two rooms were given us for dark rooms and answered the pur- 
 pose very well and enabled many to do all their photographic work, 
 there being a great deal done on board the ship. The cabins were 
 mostly all small some of them being but about 5X7 feet in size and 
 these contained two bunks one above the other, a washstand, and a 
 closet, so that generally only one person could dress at a time with 
 any degree of comfort. The berths were about two feet wide and six 
 
 and a half feet long. Electric fans were distributed all over the 
 ship and had much to do in making it comfortable in the tropics. 
 
 To show the necessity of what a large lot of provisions was needed 
 on a cruise of this kind I will give below a part of what was taken on 
 at San Francisco besides a large quantity that was already on the 
 ship not having been used up of the Eastward cruise. 180,000 pounds 
 
 8 
 
of fresh meat, 20,000 pounds of poultry, 8,500 pounds of fish, 53,- 
 000 pounds of butter, 350,000 eggs, 3 carloads of California oranges, 
 4 carloads of grape fruit, 1 carload of lemons, 2 carloads of potatoes, 
 8 tons of sugar, 15,000 quarts of fresh milk, 11,000 quarts of ice 
 cream, 110 tons of dried fruits 43,000 quart cans of preserved 
 fruits, 15,000 pounds of crackers, and minor quantities of other stuff 
 together with 100 tons of ice and 3200 tons of water, it being cheap- 
 er to buy water than to make it on the ship which could be done 
 in an emergency from sea water with the condensers. 
 
 This will give you a little idea of the enormous undertaking of a 
 thing of this kind and the requir ments for a long trip besides the 
 taking on at the various ports of fresh meats, fish, fruit and vege- 
 tables. 
 
 I will not go into details about the big feature places of the dif- 
 ferent towns we were in as they are described in all sorts of guide 
 and travel books, unless it is someihhig of especial merit. 
 
 Having knowledge of photograph} and having my camera along 
 was already interested in the dark rooms and on Tuesday the 8th of 
 February posted a notice for all the camera fiends to meet in the 
 dining room, which they did to th€ number of about sixty. I stated 
 the object of the meeting was to form a Camera Club to control tin- 
 use of the dark rooms and for mutual aid and assistance for the 
 ameteurs, and for the purpose of having meetings and lectures etc. 
 
 A temporary organization was formed I being elected chairman, 
 and a committee appointed to draft bylaws rules and to report a per- 
 manent organization etc., on Thursday, at which meeting I was elected 
 President, and Mr. William Donnelly of Calgary, Canada, Sec. The 
 total enrollment was about one hundred and thirty, and talks on all 
 sorts of photograph subjects were made at the various meetings prin- 
 cipally by Dr. E. H. Van Patton of Dayton Wash. Dr. VanWagen- 
 en of Newark, N. J. John Withers of Jersey City, New Jersey, and 
 Geo. T. Bush of Belief onte, Pa. A permanent aid committee was ap- 
 pointed to whom all in trouble could come and get the troubles fixed. 
 and was of great value to a great many of the amateurs on board. 
 The Club was called the four C's, standing for Clark's Cruise 
 Camera Club and at Yokohama I had neat little bandages of silk 
 ribbon printed with four C's and Cleveland 1910 printed on, not be- 
 ing able to get buttons, and gave one to each member of the Club. 
 Many meetings were held all through the trip with a good attendance 
 at each one, and all said they were benefited to some extent or 
 other. 
 
 I also called a meeting of the Pennsylvanians on board there be- 
 ing about fifty, it was the first state club formed more to get our- 
 selves grouped for reception at Manilla and for the purpose of get- 
 ting acquainted with your own state people. A few meetings were 
 held for the sociability sake. Mr Geo. Bush was elected Pres., and 
 Mr. Charles Shelmire of Philadelphia Sec, I also obtained a little 
 ribbon badcre with the word Penna. C. C. A. W. and 1910 the initials 
 
being for Clark's Cruise Around World and gave to the members 
 for identification purposes. 
 
 Mr. Clark requested me to act as chairman of the Dance Com- 
 mittee, and to select a committee of about ten members which I did, 
 the first dance was held Friday night the 11th on the wide B deck 
 just before we landed at Honolulu. The deck was very beautifully 
 decorated with signal flags, bunting, and colored electric lights, and 
 with the handsomely dressed ladies made a very pretty picture. The 
 ship's people put oat flake on the deck, and it was not the best or 
 cleanest thing imaginable you may be sure. The German Band on 
 board played a rather poor time for American dancers, but we 
 guessed they did the best they could do, and we enjoyed it any- 
 how dancing for about two hours, lemonade and cakes being passed 
 around by the stewards. I procured at Honolulu a good quantity of 
 Boric Acid and used that on the deck afterwards with much better 
 success, and if the slight rolling and leaning of the ship had at 
 times been prevented, we could not have asked for anything better, 
 except the time of the band which would insist in playing fast 
 waltzes and slow two steps, the reverse of what we dance, and 
 what we generally expect of the Germans. 
 
 The first event on board was held on Monday night the 7th be- 
 ing a Progressive Euchre Party given by Mrs. Frank Clark and was 
 attended by about one hundred and fifty despite the still rough 
 internal feeling of some on the boat. It was a very enjoyable affair 
 and passed off pleasantly for all, Mrs. Clark having five each very 
 nice ladies and gentlemen's prizes. I acted as master of ceremonies for 
 her in giving the rules and directions and gathering and verifying 
 the winners which had to be done in such a large crowd by asking 
 for the highest scores. 
 
 Services were held both morning and evenings on Sundays on board 
 the ship, the different ministers alternating. The most interesting 
 were Rev. Dr. Philips, of Binghampton, N. Y. who always held a large 
 audience, and Rev. Dr. Lorenz of New York city who was a very 
 polished speaker. One minister on board who should get mention 
 particularly was the gentleman we familairly called "Parson Uzzel" 
 being the Rev. Thos. Uzzel of Denver Col., who has done such a 
 world of good among the slums of that wicked city, and who was 
 one of the right hand men of Judge Ben Lindsay the famous juvenile 
 court man. His sermons always attracted a large audience as he 
 spoke from the heart, and very forcibly, with exceedingly plain en- 
 glish as he would use to his home charges, and he would have you 
 laughing one minute and crying the next so forcible were his talks 
 and picture sermons as you might call them. 
 
 All these details are gone into to try and give you some idea of 
 the life on the ship. One thing I forgot to mention was the grill 
 room in the rear of the ship where, should you get tired of the din- 
 ing room table d'hote meals you could go there and on the payment 
 of only 25 cents for the service, be served with a very nice steak and 
 
 10 
 
baked potatoes, or chicken, or a chop all helping to relieve mono- 
 tony on some of the long voyages between the different places. 
 
 A bugle blew the call for meals and on Sunday morning you were 
 awakened with a horn quartette playing "Nearer my God to Thee," 
 that was the way you knew it was Sunday and to put on your best 
 bib and tucker if you wished, otherwise it was hard to distinguish 
 one day from another on the ship, or on land, as there did not seem 
 to be any difference between that and other days, in the many dif- 
 ferent countries visited. i 
 
 il 
 
CHAPTER III. 
 
 HONOLULU. 
 
 We drew into the beautiful harbor of Honolulu on 
 Saturday morning early and was met by a boat loaded with a re- 
 ception committee of the town and a native string orchestra that 
 played the most delightful music accompanied by the singing of 
 those pretty plaintive Hawaian song they all being native Hawaians, 
 each one decorated with a "leis' around their neck. "Leis" are com 
 posed of flowers of all colors and kinds with the stem taken 
 off and strung like a string of beads to hang around the neck or fast- 
 en on the hat. As soon as the customs and quarantine duties were 
 attended to, they were permitted to come on board and a goodly 
 number of Hawaian girls with theirarms hanging full of the "leis" 
 came on board and proceeded to hang the garlands over the necks 
 of the passengers with their greeting for welcoming visitors. I met 
 Mr. James McCandless as one of representatives of the Shriners 
 and who is an honorary member of my temple "Jaffa" of Altoona, 
 Pa., he being a member of Aloha Temple at Honolulu. He was ac- 
 companied by Mr. Robert Breckons the potentate of that Temple and 
 is the district attorney for the territory- 'They immediately had me 
 to corral all the Shriners on board and as soon as we docked at the 
 wharf, which had about two thousand people down to greet us, we 
 were hurried off to special automobiles while the other passengers 
 boarded street cars and our trip of sight seeing around that beau- 
 tiful island began. It certainly is a paradise and no one can blame 
 another for wishing to go there to live, a fine climate all the 
 year around. 
 
 I would like to quote here from Mark Twain his short but express- 
 ive impression of these beautiful isles: "The loveliest fleet of is- 
 lands that lie anchored in any ocean. No alien land in all the world 
 has any deep, strong charm for me but that one; no other land could 
 so longingly and beseechingly haunt me sleeping and waking through 
 half a life time, as that one has done. Other things leave me but 
 it abides; other things change, but it remains the same. For its 
 balmy airs are always blowing, its summer seas flashing in the sun; 
 the pulsing of its surf beat is in my ear; I can see its garlanded 
 crags, its leaping cascades, its plump palms drowsing by the shore; 
 its remote summits floating like islands above the cloud rack; I can 
 feel the spirit of its woodland solitudes; I can hear the splash of 
 
 12 
 
its brooks; in my nostrils still lives the breath of flowers that per- 
 ished twenty years ago." 
 
 That is the impression it ereat d on most all of us though but few 
 if any of us could express it in such simple sweet language. 
 
 We wore first taken in the aut( to visit one of the largest sugar 
 cane factories in the world on a plantation of about eleven thous- 
 and acres where the cane is let grow for eighteen months and ac- 
 quires a height of about eleven feet. It is planted at different times 
 so that there is always some ripe and ready to cut, and the harvest- 
 ing goes on the year around. The plantation is intersected all over 
 with a minature railroad and fron the time the cane is cut in the 
 fields and loaded on the cars, until it comes out bagged as unrefined 
 sugar ready to load on the cars for shipment to the vessels, it is 
 not touched by hand. It is truly a wonderful sight to see hundreds 
 of tons of sugar come out daily in this big plant and not a hand to 
 touch it from start to finish. The process is a very interesting one 
 but it would take up much space to describe it in detail. From there 
 we visited some beautiful country homes with their magnificient trop- 
 ial gardens, palms everywhere and some of them reaching sixty feet 
 in the air. The roads are well built and well kept. 
 
 PThe finest picture on the island is unsurpassed in the whole world 
 without a doubt. It is called the Pali and is reached by a fine wind- 
 ing road up through a valley between the mountains when all of a 
 sudden there bursts into view a magnificient picture, the road 
 abruptly ends in a turn around, and the cliff falls away about 
 sheer one thousand feet, and in a massive semicircular amphithea- 
 tre about six miles deep and ten miles across, with the high moun- 
 lains bounding it, is a well cultivated valley, the diameter of this 
 semicircular valley is the blue ocean with the waves beating on 
 rocks and sand. This seashore e. tends for that whole ten miles 
 width, making an impressive and beautiful picture, that ever rests 
 in the memory of our visions, and it is made more interesting by the 
 tale; that the old king Kamehameha when he first conquered the isles 
 from the tribes that then inhabited it finally drove the islanders 
 up this valley and right off over the cliff thus exterminating near- 
 ly the whole tribe. Honolulu has one of the finest hotels in the 
 world, called the Alexander Young being very modern in every respect 
 We lunched at the old Royal Hawaian, built in tropical style, 
 with wings and cottages and ma sive porches, and its pretty gar- 
 den, and the Royal Hawaian Band playing all the time during the 
 meals in the beautiful gardens surrounding the hotel. 
 
 In the afternoon we were taken to Wakakai beach about four miles 
 down, all the way was lined with fine cottages of wealthy Americans 
 and retired army men who have fallen in love with this beautiful 
 spot. Several fine beach hotels ar< there with well kept cafes etc. 
 
 On arrival at the beach, a big roast was going on with all sorts 
 
 13 
 
of tropical fruits, and vegetables, and shell fish, things that would 
 go together being steamed and baked in a huge heap with hot 
 stones. 
 
 The sports that were run off for our edification were very interest- 
 ing, besides rowing races for girls and boys and the swimming and 
 diving, the most interesting was what is called surf riding at which 
 the Hawaians are very expert, they take a large slab board and go 
 way out beyond the breakers and start toward the shore with the 
 tide that had to be coming in, they stand up on this board balancing 
 themselves with a light pole and come shoreward at a great rate 
 of speed getting faster as they come in, being brought by the waves, 
 until it is estimated that close to land they are going thirty to forty 
 mlies an hour and are thrown high on the beach, the expert ones 
 do it finely, but the tumbles are mu:y uid sometimes dangerous, for 
 the unskilled have many bad falls. 
 
 They have an aquarium down near the beach, though small has 
 the most beautiful collection of oddities in the fish line I have ever 
 seen, every color in the rainbow and every shape seems to be repre- 
 sented. 
 
 Later in the afternoon Governor Frear and ex-Pres., Dole gave us 
 a reception in a pavilion near the beach. They are both very genial 
 gentlemen and much interested in the Hawaian Islands and their 
 growth and prosperity. 
 
 Another place we visited was the new government works at Pearl 
 Harbor, a large lake inland about ten miles from the ocean, to which 
 access is had by a deep torturous channel through which the largest 
 battleship can go with ease, and the lake itself large enough and 
 deep enough to hold two navies like ours. It is impregnable from 
 the sea and is being made so by extensive fortifications from the 
 land side and will become one of the finest naval posts in the world. 
 It will be a great protection to the Panama Canal when finished. 
 
 The city of Honolulu is well laid out, good streets in the main, and 
 kept pretty clean and healthy, has a good trolley system, is building 
 some fine wharves and seems tobe progressive. 
 
 The wealthy people seem to be mostly Americans who own the 
 large plantations and industries, but are not large in numbers, the 
 greater part of the population being Chinese, Portugese, and the 
 natives. There are about five hundred automobiles of the best class 
 in the place. 
 
 Diamond Head at the other end of the Island is a very high pro- 
 motory that juts out into the sea and is extremely picturesque, there 
 are concealed fortifications on it, as it commands the sea for thirty 
 miles roundabout, and being but six miles from Honolulu is a pro- 
 tection from the high winds as well as from the enemy. 
 
 The fine troop ship, Sheridan came into the adjoining dock on 
 the way to the Philipines while we were in the harbor, having the 
 Nineteenth infantry and some detached soldiers on board. a fine 
 looking lot of youngsters they were but the quartermaster told me 
 
 14 
 
the first three days out of San Francisco the grub did nut take 
 at all, but that when they get over their spell or mal-de-mer they 
 made up for lost time in pretty good shape. 
 
 On Saturday night a fine dance was given in honor of our party on 
 the beautiful roof garden of the Alexander Young Hotel. Earnesl 
 Kaai's fine string orchestra furnished the music and the novelty of 
 aecompaning the music with singing by their splendid voices was 
 very good. The floor was as smooth as glass and a fine time was 
 had dancing until twelve, there being a good many young dancers 
 on the ship, there was no trouble in keeping the floor full. 
 
 On Sunday the "Advertiser" one of the city dailies, issued a fine 
 Cleveland edition devoting several pages to the Cleveland with pictures 
 and sketches and incidents to which 1 fell heir to a piece as fol- 
 lows. 
 "Extract from Sunday Advertiser Honolulu, Feb. 13th, 1910" 
 
 The Blooming Bush— Some men are born wealthy, some acquire 
 wealth and others have wealth thrust upon them. Tis the same with 
 other things, such as attention and various honors. George T. Bush, 
 of Belief on te, Penna., a member of the Clark tour has had both thrust 
 upon him since leaving Frisco town has aquired more and was born 
 to the rest. The first day out he was elected President of the new- 
 ly created Camera Club which started this life with over a hundred 
 members. To this he was born and accepted his position with tin 
 grace of a man who has developed plates all his life instead of follow- 
 ing the arduous existence of a newspaper man which he is. Later 
 he was made Chairman of the dance committee by Frank Clark, a po- 
 sition which he acquired through his manifold accomplishments in 
 that direction and then Clark made him Chief Announcer. That was 
 thrust upon him but with the others he carries his part delicately 
 and without boasting. He is a modest man as well as a friend of Jim 
 McCandless. Jim McCandless was his host last night:' 
 
 Extract from another part of the edition. "The Shriners are partic- 
 ularly happy, that of course refers to the visiting sand travelers who 
 were met with open arms by Robert W. Breckons of Aloha Temple 
 
 George Bush of camera dance and announcing abilities is a Shriu 
 er of Jaffa Temple and Burgess of Frisco hails from the sandy shores 
 of Islam Temple of that budding exposition town". 
 
 The varieties of fruits and nuts number several hundred. I would 
 not give them because hardly anybody would take the trouble to 
 read the list so extensive is it. 
 
 We left Honolulu on Sunday afternoon about five o'clock and a 
 very large crowd was down to bid us farewell, which they did very 
 vociferously with bands playing and the waving and shouting of fare- 
 wells from our many newly made friends, made it an interesting as 
 well as a thrilling sight, one to be remembered. 
 
 It was Feb. 13th and a date not to be forgotten by a couple of el- 
 derly ladies on the ship, which m^de a somewhat amusing but a goo< 
 thing incident, being a lesson to the tardy and risky ones. These ladies 
 
 15 
 
ventured to take an automobile ride though they knew the ship was 
 to sail at five, which meant five, and of course the auto had to break 
 down far ajway from town, but they were picked up in some manner 
 and hurried to the wharf just as the lines were cast off and the big 
 vessel had slowly began to pull away, then the hysterics began as they 
 frantically made appeals to come back, which could not be done with 
 out hours of time lost and dangerous work, so Mr. Clark called to the 
 agent of the line to put them in a row boat at the end of the wharf 
 and the boat would slow up to pick them up out in the bay. This 
 was done after considerable trouble they having to climb the long- 
 steep steps up the side of the ship while in motion, the lesson was a 
 good one, they were always on hand in plenty of time after that. The 
 rest of the ships passengers profited thereby, nobody being left at a 
 port from that time on. 
 
 Considerable fun was created while in the harbor after leaving the 
 wharf, by the native Hawaiian boys around the ship in small boats 
 diving for money, they were very expert though not near so much 
 so as the little Malays at Singapore. 
 
 Off For Japan. — Then begun the longest water leg of our journey 
 without our seeing land, or a ship, the whole twelve days to Yokohoma 
 and we settled ourselves down to a couple weeks enjoyment having 
 becomes fairly well acquainted by this time, forming in groups or par 
 ties that were congenial, and that is the way the acquaintance kept 
 up thereafter, In the main these parties and crowds kept together 
 and went together on the rest of the trip being people most congen- 
 ial with each other, making it very pleasant indeed. 
 
 A couple of days out of Honolulu I called a meeting of the Shrin 
 ers on board and presented resolutions thanking the Nobles of Aloha 
 Temple for their kind treatment of us at the port, they were ad- 
 opted and I as secretary of the Club was ordered to have the same 
 suitably engrossed at Yokohoma leaving space to sign the same with 
 the name of Temple and home residence, as well as their own signa 
 ture, and send them to Aloha Temple at Honolulu when that had been 
 accomplished. The resolutions were as follows: 
 
 * * On board the S. S. Cleveland, 
 
 Clark's Cruise Around the World. 
 
 We the undersigned members of the Ancient Order of Nobles of 
 the Mystic Shrine on board the Steamship Cleveland on the Westward 
 Trip of Clark's Cruise Around the World in meeting assembled do 
 hereby unamimously vote that— 
 
 Whereas— The Nobles of Aloha Temple, Honolulu, T. H. did so 
 graciously show the great generosity of their hearts in entertaining 
 the visiting Nobles on the occasion of the visit of the S. S. Cleveland 
 Feb. 12 and 13, 1910— Therefore be it:— 
 
 Resolved:— That we extend our heartfelt thanks to the Nobles of 
 Aloha Temple for their earnest successful endeavors in our behalf, 
 to make our visit to their beauti ul city a pleasant one and convey 
 our best fraternal Greetings, 
 
 Fraternally Signed. 
 
 16 
 
17 
 
 I had them very beautifully engrossed on parchment at Yokohoma 
 ar\! got, them all finally signed before we got to Manila, where I had 
 them photographed and each member got a copy, which was a valua- 
 ble souvenir, and from Manila I mailed them back to Honolulu and 
 on my return home found a letter on my desk from Breckons, Poten- 
 tate of Aloha Temple thanking us for the nice souvenir remembr- 
 ance which the Temple greatly treasured, and had framed and hung 
 in their lodge room. One signer of that paper had already passed a- 
 way to the greater temple above. There were thirty-three temples in 
 the United States represented and the parchment had forty-eight sig- 
 natures to it. 
 
 On Monday night the 14th the Travelers Club meeting was held in 
 the main dining room and short talks were made of the experiences 
 had at Honolulu at which I spoke for a couple of minutes and I was 
 also appointed on a committee to draw up a Marconigram to send 
 back to Honolulu expressing thanks from the tourists on the ship for 
 their delightful entertainment they had accorded us. -The Travelers 
 Club as I stated before is the recounting of incidents and happenings 
 etc., that occurred at the previous port and the talks are limited to 
 two and three minutes each, so as to give a number a chance. 
 
 Since leaving San Francisco and traveling westward we had to set 
 our watches back about forty minutes a day varying with the dis- 
 tance and, speed of the ship going westward and when we crossed the 
 180 meridian all vessels going west dropped out a whole day from their 
 calendar and all going eastward add a day to their calendar to make 
 up the differences lost and gained. The day nearest the time we cros- 
 sed happened to be Friday the 18th so that all went to bed on Thursday 
 night, and did not. get up until Saturday morning though you were 
 really only in bed a few hours, a rather funny experience. Many star- 
 ted a card game late Thursday and were still playing a little after 
 midnight, so that they could literally say that they began playing one 
 night on a Thursday and were still playing without stopping on Satur- 
 day morning. 
 
 The trip to Yokohoma was filled with card games, both Bridge 
 Whist and progressive euchre tournaments, lectures on Japan, etc., I 
 acted as master of ceremonies and announcer at the various card 
 parties. There were also numerous meetings of the various state 
 clubs and the camera club held. 
 
 The ship people gave us a very fine dinner on Washington's 
 Birthday, the tables and dining room being decorated, and the menu's 
 specially printed ones having a fine portrait of Washington and the 
 American flag on them. I forgot to mention there was a fully equipped 
 printing office on board with which the menus for every meal were 
 printed, as well as any notices etc., that happened to be needed. 
 
 The members of the daughters of the ■ Revolution on board form- 
 ed an organization, with the members of the sons of the Revolution 
 and the members of the society of the Cincinnati as honorary mem- 
 bers. The daughters got up a very nice celebration on the evening 
 
18 
 
 of Washington's Birthday, in the large dining room it being crowd- 
 ed to the doors, and I give the programme below to give you an idea 
 of it : 
 
 PROGRAMME. 
 
 Washington's Birthday Celebration on board the Cleveland. 
 
 ORCHESTRA:— Stars and stripes forever. 
 
 ADDRESS: Washington's relation to our country by Judge Bartlet 
 Tripp, former Minister to Austria. 
 
 SONG:— The Star Spangled Banner. 
 
 ADDRESS by Mr. W. D. Steele of Mo., Society of the Cincinnatti. 
 
 SOLO By Mrs. C. M. Childs of Vt. 
 
 ADDRESS by Mr. Geo. T. Bush of Pa., representing Son^ of the Rev- 
 olution. Subjects-Results of the American Revolution. 
 
 SONG: — Columbia the Gem of the Ocean. 
 
 ADDRESS by Dr. Wm. C. Richardson of Fla., Subject-Our Country. 
 
 ORCHESTRA:— The American Patrol. 
 
 ADDRESS by Mr. Milton McRea of Mich, subjects :-The World's Na- 
 tions fused into one. 
 
 SOLO:— Mr. Carl H. Lody— DieWacht am Rhein. 
 
 ADDRESS by Col. Geo. D. Roper of 111. Subject— Our National Flag. 
 
 SONG by AUDIENCE— My Country Tis of Thee. 
 
 SELECTION by Orchestra:— National Airs. 
 
 SONG and CHORUS, by Audience :— Good Night Ladies. 
 Mrs. James G. Penn, of Richmond, Virginia and Mrs. James R. 
 Mellon, of Pittsburg, Penna, who had been elected respectively Regent 
 and Vice Regent of the Clark's Cleveland Chapter as it was known; 
 presented every member as well as the honorary members of the kin- 
 dred socities a Christmas gift of a beautiful souvenir emblem chap- 
 ter pin of gold and blue and white enamel containing a representation 
 of the map of the world with a picture of the Cleveland in the centre 
 and around the edge, the words, Clark's Cleveland Chapter D. A. R. 
 1910. 
 
 This handsome and treasured gift was very much appreciated, 
 coming as a surprise, by all who received it. 
 
 A list of officers and members of the Chapter, as well as the hon- 
 orary members, appears at the end of the book. Mrs. Clark had very 
 neat little souvnir books printed at Yokohoma, and presented each 
 member with them. 
 
 As an idea of our dinners I will give below the Washington's Birth 
 day dinner which was not much more than we usually had: 
 
 Soup Clermont, Consumme Pated' Italie 
 Delices a la Russe 
 Salmon Presidente 
 
 Larded Tenderloin of Beef a la Americane 
 Sorbet G. H. Munn 
 Breast of Turkey Cranberry Sauce 
 Salad Compot 
 
 Asparagus, Whipped Butter 
 Charlotte a la Carmen 
 Cheese Fruit Coffee. 
 
19 
 
 At the third course of this dinner the lights were lowered and the 
 stewards all came in with different figures baked in dough in a 
 very thin shell, and colored and lighted up inside with candles making 
 a very pretty sight, the orchestra playing the national air and it was 
 received with quite a round of applause. 
 
 Lincoln's Birthday also had very pretty menus with extra service. 
 
 The music by the orchestra, and the singing by the choir, were very 
 good; there were several fine voices in the choir that had been gotten 
 up on ship and they sang for the various church services on Sun- 
 day, as well as for the lectures and Travelers club meetings. 
 
 The sea was very rough for a short while before we reached Yoko- 
 ma, one wave mounting up over fifty feet, landing on the boat deck 
 and flooding the side decks but doing very little damage except the 
 ducking of some people who happened to be on that side of the ship. 
 Not near so many people succumbed to the rough sea this time, they 
 having gotten their sea legs on. Many amusing incidents happened 
 through passengers leaving their port holes open during the night, 
 and an unusually large wave would strike the ship and come in the 
 port holes filling the cabin with water and soaking everybody and ev- 
 erything in it. It would keep the stewards busy getting things in 
 shape again and the w r ater out of the state rooms. 
 
 o o ~ — ° 
 
20 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 YOKOH OMA. 
 
 We arrived at Yokhoma early on the morning of the 25th of Feb. 
 and it was an interesting sight to see this magnificant harbor with 
 its extensive shipping, the town along the bay in the distance and 
 beyond, that fine old mountain Fuiyama with its snow capped top, that 
 is so familiar in all Japanese pictures and works of art. Yokohoma 
 is a very progressive, new, live commercial city of about three hun- 
 dred thousand population with a fine harbor, and breakwater newly 
 built, and the government has just finished one long wharf, and is 
 building another, where vessels can be loaded eight or ten at a time 
 directly from the cars, when we tied up at this fine dock, a Japa- 
 nese band on the wharf, as well as the band on the ship was play- 
 ing, and quite a large crowd was on the wharf to greet us. The pre- 
 liminary custom and health" examinations having been gone through 
 we were permitted to land. The large party was divided up into 
 smaller ones to go on the various side trips which we were to take 
 from Yokohoma, being to Tokio, the capital about twenty miles away, 
 Kamakura the old capital with the great bronze statue of Daibutsu 
 their Buddha or God and the pretty beach about thirty miles away, 
 and to Nikko one hundred and sixty miles away, where nearly all the 
 great temples of Japan seem to be situated and is the summer resort 
 of the capital, it being nestled among the beautiful mountains of Ja- 
 pan, and is always delightfully cool in the summer evenings. 
 
 Parties were kept coming and going from and to all these places 
 all the following week until everybody had been at each place. There 
 were ten directors with Mr. Clark on the ship, and about thirty well 
 informed Japanese guides, who could speak English, some of both 
 were with every party. 
 
 On the wharf the party was met by the Mayors af Tokio and Yoko- 
 homa, and the officials of the various chambers of commerce of those 
 cities, as well as a great number of newspaper representatives. An 
 address of welcome was handed to Mr. Clark that was typewritten 
 expressing happiness to meet and honor such a distinguished party 
 of Americans, and reiterating the friendly spirit between Japan and 
 America. It being made the more impressive on account of the hun- 
 combe, that had just been appearing before we sailed, in the west- 
 
21 
 
 era coast papers predicting all sorts of dire things. Mr. Clark hand- 
 ed the paper to me and requested me to make the response on be- 
 half of the party. which I did speaking of the pleasures of land- 
 ing in the country of which we had heard so much, and which we 
 so adaptly named the Yankee land of the east and informed them 
 that the people of the United States were their friends and wished 
 to remain so; praised them for the progress they had made in fifty 
 years towards becoming a great civilized world power etc. I of course 
 had to speak in English which was translated to the representatives 
 by one of those who could speak both languages. This was the be- 
 gining of the receptions we met in every town we went to in Japan, 
 all somewhat similar in their nature; being met and welcomed by the 
 representative bodies of the city, and responses made by some mem- 
 bers of our party, I spoke at several in one capacity or the other 
 with a few minutes talk, while these preliminaries had been gone 
 through with on the wharf at Yoko homa. every passenger landing 
 was presented with a handsome little souvenir medal of metal, to 
 be worn in Japan being especially made for the party, and was sup- 
 posed to extend you extra attention and greetings, some wag said 
 "that was to see you coining easy, so that the price of things could 
 be raised." All this time the tourists were being rapidly loaded in- 
 to the quaint Japanese mode of conveyance, the Ricksha, a little two 
 wheeled cart with a pair of shafts and was pulled by a Japanese 
 coolie, there being several hundred at the wharf, and whirled away 
 to the depots for the distant places, or for a ride around the 
 city. It was the first experience of most of the party in a Ricksha, 
 and the novelty was greatly enjoyed, when you get used to the mo- 
 tion. Some of them are rubber tired with good springs and ride very 
 easily indeed, the little Jap taking a peculiar sort of a dog trot gait 
 slightly swinging his body, his hands steadily holding the shafts, he 
 can keep the pace from six to eight miles an hour up for hours, 
 without much seeming fatigue, They wear no shoes, many have noth 
 ing on their feet at all and over the gravel of the road, which would 
 set any American crazy, others have a sort of a low canvas sock, with 
 the big toe separate, like the mitten with the thumb, and others 
 over this wear a sort of a sandal made of plaited straw costing only 
 a couple of cents. 
 
 The Japanese money is rather easy for the American except the 
 fact of getting the pronunciation mixed up. The Yen is their 
 unit of money same as is the dollar with us, but it is only worth 
 fifty cents in our money, it is divided up into one hundred parts 
 
 called sen and when pronounced sounds like our word cents, and 
 many of our party asking the price of something would hear them 
 say so many sen, thought it was American cents they meant and pay 
 them twice as much as asked, of course in many cases the Jap kept 
 it, smiled, said thank you, and nothing more. The coinage are copper 
 one and two sen pieces; nickel five and ten sen pieces ; and ten, 
 twenty and fifty sen, silver pieces, the rest of the money is pa- 
 
22 
 
 per of a very poor quality and make, and ran in notes of all denom- 
 inations. 
 
 The mail facilities are well handled, and quickly, and they have a 
 nice parcel post system at very reasonable prices. • Everywhere we 
 went in Japan we were met with the smiles and cheerful greetings 
 of these fine little people, and you easily let them take you over for 
 extra money and charges, they did it so gracefully and politely. 
 
 .The streets have no sidewalks and are generally very narrow, 
 some of the modern ones being of the same width as our regular 
 streets here, but fifteen feet is a good width for a street, from wall 
 to wall, in regular Japan. The houses are mostly of bamboo and 
 paper and only one story, though some have two stories, they often 
 have a minature garden with a dwarfed tree or so and tiny streams 
 paths, etc., just like a little dollbaby place, is what they really 
 look like. 
 
 Their worship in general is ancestral, with two varities of that 
 religion called the Shinto and the Buddhists. I will not go into a 
 description of these religions they vary so, and are so extensive and 
 interests so few that it would be lost time. 
 
 The women are very picturesque looking in their bright colored 
 Kimonos, it being the principal articles of dress, weight being regula- 
 ted according to the weather, They have the little short step shuff- 
 ling gait, caused by walking with their little high wooden shoes. 
 There wealth or position is often determined by the Ohi or sash they 
 wear, the more elegant it is the higher up in society they are. 
 
 Stone pillar lanterns are generally the monuments to old friends 
 creted near the temples or in the yards of the houses or some con- 
 venient place where it will show. 
 
 The various sights of interest in Yokohoma are not so many, it 
 being a newer place and very much commercialized, the shopping 
 streets are worth while, especially the main ones called Benton-Do- 
 ri and Honcho Dori which is lined with very interesting shops of all 
 kinds, and there is somebody who can speak English in nearly all of 
 them. The real Japanese life can be seen by going to the surround- 
 ing villages nearby, where it is in all its primative state. There are 
 a great many temples, but the one most interesting with its numerous 
 shrines, are at the top of what is called One Hundred Steps Hill, it 
 being reached by one hundred big stone steps and from which point 
 a fine view of the city is had and also Fujiyama can be seen on 
 clear days. 
 
 At the top of the hundred steps is the Fujita one of the oldest 
 and best known teahouses in Japan patronized by Europeans who vis- 
 it Yokohoma and where ladies and gentlemen can both go, it has had 
 a distinguished roll of people from afar who have visited it, of our 
 country, among those being Commodore Perry who was the first one 
 also General Grant, and many of the Princes of the old world went there 
 They will serve you with fine dinners and give you geisha dances on 
 short notice. The attendants are all dainty little Jap girls in their 
 native costumes. 
 
23 
 
 The Yokohoma Nurseries are well worth a visit for the enormous 
 variety of flowering plants, and the many dwarfed trees of all kinds, 
 that are on view and for sale, it is the hill where the foreign col- 
 ony resides, a very pretty spot overlooking both the harbor and the 
 town. Fanciful tales are told in connection with many of the spots 
 and temples that are in and around the city, all of which are inter- 
 esting but it would take several volumes to tell these alone, as to 
 their origin etc. 
 
 One thing that interested me greatly were their theatres, the ad- 
 mission to which ran from 25 sen to 2 yen, the principal ones have 
 galleries and circles divided off at different prices, but the pit down 
 in front is often made free or a very low charge for same, they have 
 no seats, but foreigners are brought minature stools if they wish them 
 I thought I would like to go in the gallery to see what it is like, you 
 first bought a small stick of wood about eight inches long, inch and 
 half wide, and half inch thick with some characters on, this was your 
 ticket, then you went up a steep winding stair and found yourself stand- 
 ing in the "peanut heaven" behind upright bars like a cage, the floor 
 sloped back with steps having a heavy matting under so there was 
 no stamping. The stage is a peculiar affair projecting out into the 
 auditorium at one or both sides, from which the actors often go on 
 and off in full view of the audience using that way to indicate start- 
 ing off on long journeys. The main stage rests on rollers and often in 
 some thrilling part it rapidly revolves with the actors on bringing an 
 other scene into view, the actors corning through the hack and go- 
 ing right on with the scene or play The play is acted by the players, 
 especially the dramas, while the words are chanted or sung by some- 
 body off to one side, accompanied by a musical instrument, called a 
 samisam. The comedies are carried out by the actors themselves, all 
 the women parts are taken by men and well taken to. 
 
 This article would hardly be complete without a menu of a regu- 
 lar Japanese dinner, so I will give you a description of one served in 
 the Fujita tea house where you get it in the best Japanese style. You 
 were ushered into a room devoid of any furniture or decoration out- 
 side of the wall pictures on the paper partitions; with some matting 
 on the floor and cushions to sit on which we all tried to do as grace- 
 fully as we could Japanese fashion. 
 
 They begin by bringing you one dish after another, taking none 
 of the emptied ones away until the little table soon looks like a 
 place, at the country hotel in the states when they bring you in a 
 raft of dishes all at once. 
 
 They first serve you with tea the cup held in your hand then 
 little teakwood tables are placed before you on which were soup and 
 chopsticks and the courses were brought into you one after the oth- 
 er as follows: — First, tea and cakes; Second, soup containing fish- 
 paste and various vegetables; Third, fried fish; Fourth, thin slices 
 of raw fish pink and white arranged very pretty and served with 
 sauce; Fifth, fried oysters and green ginger; also served with sauce 
 of horseraddish and mustard; Sixth shell fish stew, containing in ad- 
 dition to several kinds of shell fish; slices of bambo sprouts, beans, 
 carrots, and guess the rest; Seventh, rice with which are 
 
24 * 
 
 several slices of raddish, which are supposed to aid in digesting the 
 rice and a horrible sort of an oil pickle; Eighth, tea and cake; Ninth, 
 quarters of pared apples and mandarin oranges, all fixed ready for 
 eating. Saki, the national drink made from rice was served all through 
 the meal; it is a rather bitter wine and I did not like it at all. Every- 
 thing was daintily arranged on the dishes and daintily served by the 
 tiny geisha girls in the attractive costumes. There was some of the 
 meal that did not look or taste good, while other things you could eat 
 so that 3'ou got enough generally. The dinner took a long time as 
 they are never in a hurry and was followed afterwards by geisha dan- 
 cing that was very pretty and interesting. 
 
 There are many teahouses on the hill and around the city but 
 they are not so respectable, many of them being but a cover for the 
 house of ill fame, the main ones of wfiich are all situated in one sec- 
 tion of the city, and is called the Yoshiwara. Japanese morals are a 
 problem and many funny incidents could be related of the various 
 kinds that were run across in our travels. More of this will be told 
 farther on. 
 
 Cremation is practiced mainly now in the disposal of the dead 
 Those who do not cremate are buried in cemeteries, the strange part 
 of which strikes you being the closeiess of the tombs together, which 
 is caused by being buried in a sitting posture. I happened on a Sun- 
 day, to witness a very large funeral of a well known Geisha girl and 
 it was quite a sight, about fifty geis'aa girls all dressed in white car- 
 rying each some offering of food, a posession of men dressed in black 
 with large golden flowers on poles another body of men in dark 
 gray as mourners, the coffin was a newly built minature oblong one 
 story house, it was born on the shoulders of men and was beautiful 
 carved, the body reposed inside all in white. Then followed relatives 
 and others on foot the whole procession being about one quarter of 
 a mile long, and I forgot to mention headed by a small band of Japa- 
 nese instruments playing a rather doleful piece of music. 
 
Variation 
 
 The Sacred Bridge at Nikko 
 
 Japanese Actors 
 
3a 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 TOKIG, KAMAKURA, and NIKKO. 
 
 From Yokohoma we took an hours run in the cars to Kamakura, 
 al one time, several hundred year ago the capital city of the island, 
 wiiii half a million, population, but now only a small village containing 
 the gicai bronze statue of the Daibulsu (being the name for Great 
 Buddha, was at one time surround 3d by a temple but the ruins was 
 carried away twice by a great tidal wave from the sea and never re- 
 placed the last time. It has a height of 49 feet, a circumference of 97 
 feet, and is 17 feet from ear to eai ha^ 830 curls each of a size 9X11 
 inches; these few dimensions jwill give you an idea of its great size, 
 and you ran go up into the head from the inside. It has a dreamy 
 peaceful expression and has really a beauty and a charm, the more it 
 is studied. The seashore here is very fine one and makes a beau- 
 /il'ul view. 
 
 The Jinriksha (that is the fui name contracted to Rikisha) men 
 early dubbed me Diabutsu and that name stuck to me all through 
 Japan and I had it as a nickname from many of my close friends on 
 the ship- 
 On the way to Kamakura was noted many pretty little farms and 
 rice fields covered with water, they being built in sorts of terraced 
 ponds one above the other so that the water could run from one to 
 the other, everything seemed in minature as compared with our ex- 
 pensive place in this country. 
 
 All the way to Kamakura every station was crowded with people 
 cheering us, and calling the already familiar "Banzai" that greeted us 
 everywhere, it means a sort of a Hurrah in our country. At Kama- 
 kura we were met by a band and a big crowd and the Mayor, by whom 
 an address was delivered, and an. answer was made by some member 
 of our party 
 
 We next went to Nikko stopping at Tokio on the way where ,we 
 were accorded another great reception, in the morning we took jin~ 
 rikishas and went around this large city to see some of the principal 
 points of interest among which are the Imperial palace, surrounded by 
 a high wall and deep moat containing all the buildings necessary for 
 the Emperor and his suite; it is four miles in circumference which gives 
 
you an idea of its MSMwensity, aawl the strength the plaee would have 
 in ©Idea days helm*® the time of explosive shells. The Uyeno Mus- 
 eum, which is the finest in Japan, was visited, and the many govern- 
 ment buildings and a couple of temples, afterwards we returned to 
 the fine Imperial Hotel for dinner,it is a modern up to date steam 
 heated house ran in European fashion. In the afternoon was accord- 
 ed us the fine reception under the auspices of the government at 
 which many of the officials, and army and navy officers were pres- 
 ent. It was held in the new Yurakuza Theatre, the first part being 
 welcoming speeches fey prominent Japanese officials including Baron 
 Shimbisawa the Pierpoint Morgar of Japan,and were responded to 
 by members of our party. A wedding ceremony was played by 
 girls on the stage being an exact counterpart of a noblemans 
 wedding ceremony, followed by a Japanese play in one act by the 
 new school of acting in Japan, all being girls, that was followed by 
 Geisha dancing which was very pretty and interesting, though the 
 slowness of their movements is directiy contrary to any sort of 
 dancing in this country. 
 
 After the play and dancing we retired to an adjoining building 
 where tea, punch, sandwiches and cake were served and we met many 
 of the officials; quite a pleasant reception in the evening the Grand 
 Hall given by the government was held in the ball room of the hotel, 
 before which a reception was held where we met some of the offi- 
 cials and their wives. Two little Japanese ladies drew for us or rath- 
 er hand-painted in a minute, and presented us a beautiful flower on 
 a post card, any flower we asked for, as a souvenir of the occasion. 
 The ball began at nine o'clock, the room was finely decorated with 
 flowers and many American flags The Imperial band furnished the 
 music. The government had representatives there from nearly all the 
 departments of the cabinet, the Crown Prince's son, representatives 
 from all the foreign legations, many of whom we met; it altogether be- 
 ing quite a representative affair and was accorded leading space in 
 the Japanese papers the next day 
 
 The next morning March 1st we arose early and continued our 
 sight seeing, visiting the famous war museum containing besides 
 numerous old relics, a great quantity of relics of the Jap-Russian 
 war. We also visited some more temples and Shrines some of which 
 were very beautifully decorated with massive and numerous carv- 
 ings rich in gold embelishments, the gold lacquer on some of the pil- 
 lars being forty coatings deep, making it very expensive. 
 
 There was an amusing incident occurred while visiting one of the 
 temples, one of the curious ladies who asked a good many ques- 
 tions many of them irrelevant, that were generally politely answered 
 by the guide, and who seemed to be tiring a little of some of the 
 foolish ones, came to a gate where two large dragon heads faced 
 each other, the guide stated that they were always two heads over 
 the gate, one was a male and onefemale, and the lady immediately 
 asked how they told the difference, the answer came back quickly, 
 the female always has its mouth open, she did not ask many ques- 
 tions the remainder of the day, as we laughed long and heartily at 
 the quick and witty answer of the guide. 
 
27 
 
 Uyeno Part, a most beautiful sp»& on a hill overlooking Tokiu 
 was the last place visited, and at four o'clock we look the special 
 train for Nikko, a six hours run meeting with a large crowd and Ban- 
 zai's at every station; at Utsunomiya station we were met by the 
 Mayor and hundreds of school children with cards that had sonic 
 greeting written on in English and were asked to exchange our name 
 cards with them and many of the parly did, they also had hundreds 
 of Japanese lanterns which they gave us. We arrived at Nikko late- 
 in Ihe evening and started for our hotels through cheering lines of 
 natives, going for a mile along a beautiful avenue of pine trees 
 over three hundred years old that were planted by the poor natives 
 as an offering, they being too poor to erect shrines and lantern mon- 
 uments; the total length of this avenue is 26 miles. The lanterns on 
 the rikishas, and the ones we had made a beautiful sight, along with 
 the lanterns of the natives and the going along in single file looking 
 like a long fire fly snake winding in and out all the way up the hill, 
 until we reached our hotel at the top. The hotel was lighted all a 
 round by electric lights and made a pretty sight. It was very modern 
 and comfortable though we were in snow, and snow all around us in 
 places 
 
 The "bell hops" at the hotel were all tiny little Japanese maids, 
 so small it looked as though you coukl put them in your pocket. It 
 was laughable to see them try and help the men on with their over- 
 coats, which they politely offered to do on every occasion, and we 
 would let them try for the fun of the thing. They were very game, 
 and by standing on their tip toes and reaching up as far as they 
 could would he just able to reach your coat collar. They would offer 
 to carry your heavy suitcases but we would, not let them do that pre- 
 ferring to carry them ourselves. They moved around so quietly and 
 popped into and out of your room sometimes at very embarrassing 
 moments for us, building the fire etc., but they never minded it in 
 the least. .The meals and service at this hotel were excellent. 
 
 Nikko is one of the noted and beautiful soots in Japan and any- 
 body going to that country should by ad means take a trip there, de- 
 scriptions do not do it justice and can ne\ er show its grandeur. There 
 are about three hundred temples and Shrines of the Shoguns there with 
 their fine settings in the midst of the tall pine trees the red and gold 
 of tho temples showing up well against this magnificient green back- 
 ground making it a sight that will inner be forgotten. We visited a 
 few of the temples, having to take our shoes off to go inside, and the 
 amounts of money expended on them must be something enormous as the 
 amount of gold used can be easily seen to be very large. 
 
 There is also the well known Sacred Bridge over which nobody 
 is allowed to cross except the royar family, being well made and cov- 
 ered with red lacquer, there is a long tale connected with its history. 
 
 The sight the next morning with the sun rising over those high 
 snow capped mountain tops, the green setting, the rushing brook, all 
 impressed one greatly. 
 
 The emblems of the Japanese religion being many, a few I will 
 name, one is the Sleeping cat carved on many of the temples, another 
 
28 
 
 is the three monkeys one with paws over mouth, another over ears, 
 and another over eyes, symbolizing speak no evil, hear no evil, see no 
 evil. Different Gods are also carved, the God of the Winds, of the 
 Flames, of the Waters,and many others. Many pretty pagodas., are 
 near some of the temples being fivestories, about one hundrer feet high, 
 and are finely carved and decorated. Extensive copper mines are in the 
 mountains above Nikko. 
 
 It is a little hard to understand a Jap speaking the English lan- 
 guage, or they to understand you trying to speak theirs, until you get 
 on to the fact that they seem to make a syllable of every vowel, or 
 right after every vowel, with some few exceptions. As an illustration, 
 they would pronounce our word regent, re-ge-nt pronouncing each 
 syllable as I have it. Their word Daibutsu for instance is pronounc- 
 ed dai-bu-tsu they do not seem to emphasize any syllables at all Oha- 
 yo pronounced like our state word Ohio means good morning and 
 "sayonara" is good bye. The vowels are all pronounced phonetically 
 being principally the short sounds 
 
 The railroad cars in Japan, the first and second class ones, are 
 very much like ours, no compartment but the seats run along the side 
 like street cars, all other cars on my whole trip were compartment 
 cars, each big car being separated into four or five compartments., 3 
 will speak more of this later. 
 
 I left Nikko early with Mrs. Clark and a friend to get hack to 
 Yokohoma in time for a special dinner being served at the Grand Ho- 
 tel, and a grand ball to be held that evening in our honor. We had 
 a very pleasant ride to °Tokio but had over four miles to go by riki- 
 sha from Uyeno station to Shimbasi station in Tokio and found when 
 we landed we had only half an hour to make it in to catch the right 
 train. We made a quick dicker with four sturdy fellows and had each 
 one get a helper so that there were two men to each rickisha; we 
 impressed upon them they must go and there was something extra in 
 it for them, and began one of the wildest rides I have ever taken, 
 full tilt often on one wheel, worming their way at high speed between 
 wagons, street cars, torn up streets pedestrains and missing heavy ve- 
 hicles, and people by a hair, the Japs yelling like Indians ail the way 
 until your hair stood on end, and we all drew a good long breath 
 when the other station hove in sight and that wild ride was ended. It 
 had been made in 26 minutes and we caught our train, and there met 
 many of the prominent railroad and government officials on the way 
 io attend the dinner and the ball and had a very pleasant .journey 
 the balance of the ride. We were informed the regular time for the 
 trip between the two stations, by rickssha was one hour and that on 
 ihe run. 
 
 Avery fine dinner of ten courses was served at tha Grand Hotel 
 at Yokohoma, 1 was the guest of Mr Clark and very pretty souvenirs wer 
 given, a handsome embroidered silk card case for the ladies, and an 
 embossed metal cigarette case for the men. 
 
 The ball began at 9:30, the music by the ships orchestra, the pro- 
 prietor hoping to have two orchestras but was disappointed in the 
 focal one. By the way the proprietor was a Pennsylvania hoy by the 
 name of Mannering originally from Philadelphia. 
 
29 
 
 I was very much surprised about the middle of the bail to have a 
 familiar face walk up to me and say how do you do Mr. Bush, but 
 1 could not for the life of me place the name, though the face was 
 very familiar, at last I said I thi.ik you are a State College boy 
 were you not, and he said ho was. His name was Ketchum, he had 
 graduated a few years before and I had often seen him in Bellefonte. 
 Ho had been in Yokohoma for two years liked it pretty well, but said 
 that he and all the American boys were awfully glad to see our crowd 
 it made them feel good for a long time afterwards. He was in the 
 electrical business I believe 
 
 A great many people were present many whom had been to the 
 ball a couple of nights before, at Tokio. We all enjoyed ourselves 
 very much until the music stopped at one o'clock, but it was a much 
 later hour when we finally got to bed. I danced with a couple of the 
 Japanese ladies and it was somewhat of an experience, they being in 
 ihoir little canvas indoor socks and very light, and not being able to 
 glide over the floor like we could in our leather shoes, had to take 
 many steps, but they danced easy at that, being so light and quick 
 in their steps. Madam Hayashi who has been spoken of in news- 
 paper articles, having married her adopted brother, who was mana- 
 ger of the Imperial Hotel at Tokio was one of the ladies. 
 
 The public bath houses are many of them very peculiar affairs in 
 the fact that the only thing that separates the mens from the wom- 
 ens sides is a pole across the center of the pool. 
 
 One of the most interesting things is the shopping and it is a 
 great deal of sport in a way, though many did not like it. In the 
 great majority of shops that are frequented by foreigners, the in- 
 stant they see a foreigner coming they raise the prices, or it seems 
 that way, for when you first ask them the price of something they 
 name you what seems a high price for Japan; though it would only 
 he a moderate price in our shops, for the same article delivered, 
 with the duty paid. You demur a little and they will name you a low 
 er price possibly as much as half off, but those things vary and if 
 you keep on dickering, or let them see that you do not care for it 
 very much, they will keep coming down until you don't know where 
 slopping place is, but if they saw that you wished it ,that settled il 
 and they stuck to their second or third price named until you pur- 
 chased. I often set my mind on what I would pay, and never swerved 
 from it, and generally got it at that price, though sometimes not until 
 the day after, when one happened by, they would call you in and let 
 you have the goods at your own price formerly named. An idea of 
 values was a very great help, you discounting duty, cost and lower 
 labor costs etc. There are a few of the mo-re prominent stores who 
 have one price and they very rarely dropped from that, but the 
 goods were good, and the prices generally not high. Japan was not 
 so bad in regard to purchasing as some of the later countries visit- 
 ed. The small native shops in the unfrequented places generally gave 
 you a low or the lowest price, and from which they would come down 
 but little. I might illustrate one of my experience in buying a Kim- 
 ono I saw one I liked, the proprietor asked 36 yen for it I offered 
 him twelve, it was a gold embroidered on black silk quilted, the fig- 
 ures big dragons. He came down to twenty yen that day but would 
 
30 
 
 not come any lower, the next morning I walked by the store and look- 
 ed in the window for a few minutes, until he saw me and he instan- 
 tly came out and said, would you not like to buy that kimono to day, 
 I said I would only pay 12 yen font ,110 more, he said all right, so I 
 went in and looked and found it was the same one and then said I 
 will take three, knowing two of my friends who had wanted me to buy 
 some for them. It was very rarely that I did not get the article at 
 the price I set though it often took a day or so to make the deal. 
 
 The shops are all small with ew exceptions, but with many beau- 
 tiful things in carvings and embroideries, that made your mouth water 
 lor a big pocket book. 
 
31 
 
 CHAPTER VL 
 KOBE, OSAKA a nd KIOTO. 
 
 On Friday morning the fourth f March we cast off early and 
 steamed away for Kobe, where we arrived on Saturday morning the 
 fifth. Kobe is at one end of the beautiful inland sea of Japan, has 
 a population of about 300.000 and i s a new but already large seaport 
 I noted over thirty large steamers riding at anchor in the harbor, 
 which is in the form of a cresent the city being builded around that 
 half circle and extends back up th e hills and mountains; which come 
 close to the shore nearly all the way around, making it a well shel- 
 tered place from storms. There are a great many factories here of 
 all kinds and the place is noted for its beautiful and artistic designs 
 in pottery, tapestry, silk making and weaving and bamboo basket 
 work. It is the principal seaport for Osaka, which is the greatest 
 commercial city in Japan, being about forty minutes ride by train, 
 Kobe is a very clean and well kept city.mosi of the streets being wide 
 for that country. 
 
 The principal points of interest consists of temples and another 
 enormous Daibutsu, but the thing that interested the party most was 
 the athletic games consisting of Ju-jitsu, wrestling, broad sword con-' 
 tests, etc., which were very fine lasting a couple of hours, produced" 
 by a National Athletic Club Composed of the better classes. Tea 
 was served us at several places, the one in particular in a private 
 park of one of the noblemen and was presided over by the ladies of 
 high officials of the city, they made tea in a peculiar fashion, pulver-' 
 i/.ing the leaves then pouring in hot water, and whipping same with 
 a finely split bamboo stick like an egg whipper, the tea was very 
 green and made a thick green be* erage that had a delicious taste, 
 they also served cakes and ices. The ladies were richly and beautiful^ 
 !y dressed and extremely courteous and altogether it was a delightful- 
 
 On Sunday we took the train for Osaka, a very large manufact- 
 uring city of over one million inhabitants; it is a sort of a Japanese 
 Venice being intersected by many canals and the river. Here we re- 
 ceived one of the greatest receptions ever given to anybody, the 
 
32 '-« 
 
 route of our travel through (the : oity in riekishas feeing -Jined for 
 for miles and miles with cheering thousands crying "Banxai'* and 
 "Ohayo" and waving American flags at us; as one of the party said; 
 ■"I saw more American flags iffi tha city, than I have ever seen in 
 America in any one place." Little babies in arms even had flags and 
 waved them there seemed to he millions of them. It is roughly es- 
 timated that half a million people lined the total route of travel; all 
 with smiles and cheers, it certainly was a thrilling sight. We were met 
 at the depot hy the Mayor and council, and short addresses of wel- 
 come and responses were made. 
 
 All along the route of our travels besides the cheering and cries 
 of welcome, some of the school boy^ would hand members of the par- 
 ly cards, generally post cards of ttte oily written oa the reverse side 
 with some greeting in the Englisl" language they were taught in the 
 schools. 
 
 I will give an example ©f <wt. of several, that were handed to 
 me, word for word as given. 
 
 I have pleasure to send yon this letter. I am sorry that there 
 is nothing to please you in Osaka. But ail people in Osaka receive 
 you heartily, now we have rarely snow, this snow is the sign to wel- 
 come you. We herehy prey tha between America and Japan and 
 will become more and more closely Yours Truly 
 Banzai Banzai 
 Osaka 6 Feb. 191© 
 Eisuke Vishlnrara 
 
 Ote I Chome Negashiku Osaka. 
 
 In reference to the snow, I forgot to mention that the morning 
 we arrived in Osaka, there was quite a heavy snow fall, but the af- 
 ternoon turned out clear and sunny and the only inconvenience oc- 
 casioned, was the slight mud that it r*»ade underfoot, but that seemed 
 to bother the rickisha man about as little as anything else did. 
 
 This party numbering about three hundrer and fifty, went at 
 noon to the large "Osaka Hotel" for the banquet, and indeed it was 
 a very elaborate one; had a pretty souvenir at every piate,and a 
 printed address enclosed, the American and Japanese flags were en- 
 twined. Descriptive hooks and post cards of the plaee were also en- 
 closed. The fine Imperial Band was (here and played very well all 
 during the dinner; the Japanese »nd American national airs were both 
 rendered during which we all rosf and stood until the pieces were fin- 
 ished. 1. in a short speech introduced Mr. Otsuka, the manager of the 
 hotel and secretary of the board of trades they having provided all 
 this enterlainmenl for us, and he made us a fine address and was 
 well pleased with the enthusiast!* reception be received from us. I 
 called on Prof. Trueblood to respond he made a complimentary re- 
 sponse, thanking them for giving us this fine reception, when we were 
 not there long enough to do them any material good in the way of 
 leaving money for purchases. It eertainiy was nice of them and un- 
 doubtedly came from the heart. 
 
 The famous Osaka Castle was a fine object of what was once an 
 
Vhild 
 
 Straw Rain Coats 
 
 ■■'/MM 
 
 mu 
 
 j 1 
 
 *&' 
 
 r iP- 
 
 ^ 1 m 
 
 * ■ 
 
 ■ 
 
 IP? 
 
 Ir. 
 
 C { 
 
 1 
 
 - 
 
 
 t| 
 
 
 '-'•* .*_<(. 
 
 
 - 
 
 * 
 
 feuuuay 
 
 Rope of Human Hair 
 
33 
 
 impregnable fort, the finest I hark ever seen, rivaling thewell-known 
 Quebec, Canada, and the one at A;4>*a in India, as well as the one 
 on the Island of Corfu in the Mediterranean Sea. 
 
 There are single stones in its massive walls forty feet long 
 twelve feet high and said to be six to eight feet thick; they are a 
 marvel, to wonder how they could have been gotten there at thaL 
 time, the fort having been built in the sixteenth century. It would be 
 a great feat today, and they were said to have been brought long 
 distances. There are several stones near the size. The one other 
 chief point of interest was the Tanoji Temple, founded about 600 A ■ 
 D; It has a fine five story pagoda one of the largest in Japan, built 
 of massive timbers, the huge cen tre piece going up through being 
 about three feet square, hewn with an axe, and is one hundred and 
 Shirty feet long. This would be a feat of its self alone to erect. The 
 Temple had a Buddha that was said to have a thousand hands; I 
 tooli their word for it, but it looked like it; the top hands held the 
 sun and moon and the others held some objects representing imple- 
 ments of every kind. There were a great number of gold and sil- 
 ver offerings of large value. In a building close by was a sort of 
 historical museum, containing some very old writings; it was- claimed 
 some of them were the original writings of Confucius, the famous 
 Chinese philosopher and they really looked the part. Close to that 
 was the largest bronze bell I ever seen, being beaten in size onlydsy 
 the one at Moscow. It was rung on feast days; a large beam afoot 
 vjuare and thirty feet long was us«-d to strike it, being swung- on 
 ropes, and it takes twenty men to swing the beam to make it strike 
 the bell. The Imperial Mint is also here. There are many other 
 places of interest, too numerous to mention, but which did not strike 
 me so forcibly. At four o'clock we went to the station to take the 
 train for Kyoto and there again the' Mayor and some of the offic- 
 ials of the town were down to see us off, and I was called upon to 
 make them an address of thanks for the many courtesies they hat 
 shown us, and expressed regret at the shortness of our stay etc. 
 
 The following was the printed greeting that was found at each plat^ 
 at the hotel along with the flags, flowers and souvenirs and is so- ex- 
 pressive of the general feeling as we saw it everywhere in Japan that 
 I reproduce it here as follows: 
 
 A HEARTY WELCOME TO OUR GUESTS! 
 
 It is the desire of the Asahi shimbun to let our honored 
 Guests from the other side of the great Pacific know 
 how well Japan appreciates all the kindness shown to 
 the representatives of her Trade and Commerce during 
 their recent trip through the immense Republic; 
 
 It is with feeling of gr eat satisfaction that we now ten- 
 der them our 
 
 HEARTIEST WELCOME, 
 with the hope that their short stay in our country may 
 be a dear remembrance to them in later times, thus 
 helping to link tighter our common interests and smooth- 
 
34 
 
 en the way to free intercourse and perfect understand- 
 ing between the future generations of both people. 
 
 Although Osaka is th e centre of Japanese industry, we 
 hardly venture to think that we can show visitors any- 
 thing comparable in interest to their own mighty object 
 lessons of progress, but still we are happy to remember 
 the appreciation evinced by Americans of the efforts 
 which this country has trade of late years. 
 
 We wish we could give our guests as much pleasure 
 as there countrymen have given to Japanese visitors to 
 the States, and it is our greatest iiipc i.hat we may at 
 least be able to cause them to leave our island with a 
 feeling of regret and a desire to return. 
 
 OSAKA ASAHI SHIMBUN. 
 
 We arrived at Kyoto about five o'clock, the station was filled with 
 cheering crowds; again short addresses were made to the officials 
 and we took rickshas for our four mile ride to the Miyako Hotel, the 
 road all along being lined as at Osaka, though with not so many 
 people, as the town has only about three hundred population. It was 
 dark when we arrived at the Hotel and it certainly was a sight with 
 the countless Japanese lanterns lighted for our benefit. The Hotel 
 was a large one and erected high on the hillside; you were always on 
 the first floor even when you went up five flights of stairs, and it 
 seemed to be about a half mile from my room to the dining room, 
 it covered so much ground. It was a very comfortable place withal' 
 the meals being fine and were served by a great number of dainty 
 little Japanese maidens; and with the decorated and well lighted din- 
 ing room made a very picturesque sight. 
 
 Kyoto was once the capital of Japan and has within the city lim- 
 its 827 Buddhist Temples and some 80 Shinto shrines. The Imperial 
 Palace there is a beauty of Japanese art and decoration; and though 
 rarely opened to the public, the Emporer made a special courtesy 
 for us, and sent his Messenger to have it opened for our inspection. 
 We had to write our names and addresses in a book, and take off 
 our shoes before going into it and it was indeed a treat to see the fine 
 paintings and carvings in the various rooms, all in the highest style 
 of Japanese art. 
 
 Of the many Temples I will only mention one; it was entirely 
 different from any we had seen as yet though we were begining to 
 •50 1 very tired of seeing Temples, it is the largest in Japan covering 
 about fifty thousand square feet, the supporting columns were mag- 
 nificient pieces of wood being forty to fifty feet long without a knot 
 and from two to three feet in dianeter, there were a great many of 
 them, the beams were all massive and the decorations were all on a 
 large scale. The Temple contained in one part 550 prayer mats size 
 3X6 feet, and a massive altar, all richly decorated, with gold and 
 precious stones. Here were seen the massive coils of rope made of 
 human hair one coil of which was on exhibition, the rope being 90 
 feet long and nine inches in circumference. There were 29 of these 
 coils. We saw one of them being used in raising some of these mas- 
 
35 
 
 sive timbers. They were building a gate for the temple, the old gate 
 having burned down a couple of years ago. Each rope was said to 
 contain the hair of ten thousand women; they gave their hair hav- 
 ing nothing else to contribute. 
 
 In Kyoto are the principal manufactures of Damascene, Satsuma 
 Gloisene, and bronze inlaying, and I visited all these factories, or 
 rather shops they were, and was very much interested in the pro- 
 cess that the work went through. I will try and give a short descrip- 
 tion of such process. Damascene is made by taking a steel plate, 
 made of soft steel, cutting or scouring it full of fine lines, then gold 
 wire is taken and stretched out very fine and the design is work- 
 ed out and the gold wire hammered into this steel face. When it is 
 finished it is put into an oven very hot and annealed then the. 
 parts between where there is no gold design are filled with enamel; 
 and then baked again, and all finely ground and polished. It shows 
 very beautiful gold designs and makes a very durable piece of ar- 
 tistic work; the grades of work and quantity of gold varies, thus making 
 the difference in the prices of the same looking piece of ware. 
 
 Satsuma is a fine piece of crockery made at only one place 
 in Japan, that has peculiar firing possibilities; this one place sup- 
 plies all the decorators with their raw material. The designs are 
 drawn on the ware and then each color required is painted on, and 
 after each coloring it is fired as many as seven times; some of the 
 designs are very pretty, for instance one represented butterflies in- 
 side and outside of a cage the diffeent firings and paintings, showing 
 that effect. 
 
 Gloisene is made by first taking a rough copper utensil in shape 
 of the object wanted; the design is then drawn on the utensil, silver 
 wire is drawn out very fine and is bent and twisted to the design 
 and fastened with some sort of a glue, when the whole design has 
 been carried out with the silverwire, the vacant places are filled 
 with enamel of the colors wanted and the whole thing fired. The sil- 
 ver and enamel adhere to the object, which is then taken and ground 
 on a wheel and polished until it is all a smooth surface; the fine 
 silver lines stand out in contrast with the enamel, which makes the 
 fine cloisene ware we see today. The various differences in the ware 
 are in using silver objects and polishing them before laying on the 
 design, then enamelling, which ma ;•:<-; the nice translucent ware of 
 that *ome material. There are many grades of that also by use of 
 different metals and enamels. 
 
 The broze inlaying is also very interesting; a fine soft copper 
 bronze being fashioned into the object wanted, then the design is 
 cut out, gold, silver and the various bronzes of those metals to get the 
 different colors, are taken and hammered into those cut out places 
 and annealed and polished; then the finishing line engraving is ad- 
 ded and the beautiful work completed. All these various processes 
 take a great deal of time and patience, and the wages paid are low, 
 being from twenty to forty cents a day for the good workers. 
 
 I was greatly interested in all methods of mechanical workings, 
 the blacksmith instead of filing, takes a sharp edged piece of steel 
 and literally planes the iron off by hand, a very laborions process. The 
 carpenters instead of pushing the saw away from him draws it to- 
 
36 , 
 
 ward him, the same way with the plane, and many curious methods 
 of working and using tools were noticed in the various trades and 
 workshops that were passed by. The women in washing clothes, in- 
 stead of rubbing on a rough board like we do; soap the clothes and 
 then beat them very hard over flat stones, it gets them clean in time 
 but is pretty hard on the clothes. 
 
 Kyoto is also noted for its fine embroideries we seeing many 
 beautiful pieces of that art, as well as the women working on them. 
 At the hotel at noon, we were treated to several Geisha Dances by 
 eight beautiful little Jap girls who were grace itself; and they were so 
 pretty and so small it was like looking at living doll babies, and for 
 over an hour we were very much entertained. 
 
 We took the train for Kobe greatly pleased with our visit to 
 those interesting cities of Kyoto and Osaka, and many resolved that 
 if they ever got that way again they would gladly spend more time. 
 
 On all the trains that we took there were little Jap boys with 
 red caps who could speak English fairly well, acting as a sort of 
 train guide. To liven up the time on the way down to Kobe, I got sev- 
 eral of these little fellows together and we finally persuaded them to 
 sing for us, they sang some Japanese songs and finally surprised us, 
 by singing some typical American songs in good English 
 
 I asked them to sing the Japanese National song which they did with 
 a good bit of expression and feeling, and then sang the ''Star Spang- 
 led Banner" by request; but wound up by asking us to sing it for 
 them and much to our surprise and disgust there was not a person 
 out of thirty in the car, that knew anything but the chorus and the Jap 
 boys certainly had the laugh on us. 
 
 Every .lap child is required to go to school and in the higher 
 schools every boy is required to learn two of three foreign languages 
 namely English, French and German, the most of them choose En- 
 glish and German. At many places the schools were closed in hon- 
 or of our visit, and the high schoolboys all volunteered to act as 
 guides, glad of the chance to air their English and learn from En- 
 glish speaking people, and they made very interesting and earnest 
 guides. They absolutely refused an) fees or tips and also refused any 
 lump sum from Mr. Clark, so he in one instance contributed $500 
 to the charity fund of the city. 
 
 We arrived at Kobe and was back on the ship about 8:30, and 
 bmnd the welcome signs in colored electric lights, to greet us, the 
 band playing and a good hot dinner waiting for us, and it was very 
 welcome I can tell you. 
 
 Went on shore the next morning and happened on a Chinese 
 baptism at one of the Buddhist temples , the Chinese mother very 
 beautifully dressed, had the baby covered with a very pettily em- 
 broidered kimono with a number of inscribed papers tied on in rear 
 of it, they were prayers. The name was registered at the shrine 
 and then the party went on to the Temple for the final rights of bap- 
 tism. 
 
 The following poem on Japan was Mr. L. A. Sherman's of Port 
 Huron, Mich., contribution to the Traveller's Club meeting, it is writ- 
 ten to the meter of Hiawatha. 
 
37 
 IN QUAINT JAPAN. 
 
 Over two thousand leagues of water, 
 
 O'er Pacific's billows 
 Come we now with joy and gladness, 
 
 To the Rising Sun's dominion, 
 Where the mornings rosy finger 
 
 Touches first the sacred mountains. 
 Gilds the snowy cone of Fuji 
 
 With its ocean filtered sunbeams, 
 "Banzai, Banzai," about the people, — 
 
 Ten millenniums of welcome 
 To their occidental brethern, 
 
 To the Great Republic's people, 
 Gome to meet the sons of Nippon, 
 
 Come to greet its quaint robed daughters. 
 "Ohayo", with merry laughter, 
 
 Shout the children, oft repeating 
 This "Goodmorning," this their greeting 
 
 To the light haired western strangers, 
 Borne across the eastern ocean 
 
 To the shores of ancient Nippon 
 Here, entwined with Japan's sunburst, 
 
 Waves our glorious starry banner, 
 Wave its bars of white and crimson, 
 
 Hung in scores and flung in hundreds 
 Over the doorways of the houses, 
 
 Over streets and public places, 
 Good will speaking for our nation. 
 
 So we pass from port to city, 
 Visit temples, shrines of Buddha; 
 
 Traverse many streets in "rickshaws"; 
 Go among the common people; 
 
 Enter quaint and cleanly dwellings; 
 Hear the wooden footgear clatter 
 
 On the narrow walks and pavements; 
 See the workmen at their labors 
 
 In the shops along the byways. 
 Find we here a courteous people, 
 
 Find a people with ambition, 
 Emulating western peoples 
 
 In the art of peace and warfare. 
 So we pass along the islands, 
 
 Sail to Nagasaki harbor, 
 Where ten thousand lighted torches 
 
 Wave us farewells in the evening. 
 As we leave the island Kingdom, 
 
 Leave the Rising's Sun dominion. 
 o o — o 
 
38 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 INLAND SEA and NAGASAKI. 
 
 We sailed from Kobe at three p. m., leaving late so that part of 
 the pretty scenery of the inland sea which we would reach in the ear- 
 ly morning, could be seen in daytime. All went to bed early and 
 many were up at daylight, and from that time until noon it was one 
 beautiful and interesting view after another, hard to describe, only to 
 be seen to be rightly appreciated,! longed for a little motor boat and 
 a couple of weeks to thoroughly enjoy it. We steamed slowly along 
 until we reached the wider part of the sea when we speeded up across 
 it and slowed down again at the narrows, approaching the famous 
 Shimoniski straights, the narrows here being so small and tortuous 
 that other boats had to get out of our way before we could go through 
 A pilot had been taken on at Kobe to take us to Nagasaki, whither we 
 were bound, and though only two nights and one day on board; it is 
 said that his fee for piloting was three hundred and fifty dollars, he 
 was a Scotchman. The govenment licenses the pilots and only allows 
 a few of them to know the channels, as it is their greatest protection 
 from their foreign enemies in time of war; from having the beautiful 
 shores of this inland sea ravished with shot and shell. Of course all 
 these narrow straights are heavily protected by concealed fortifica- 
 tions and neither we nor anybody else were allowed to take any pho- 
 tographs anyways near them. 
 
 These straights have large prosperous, commercial and manufac- 
 turing cities on both sides of them; especially iron works the ore be- 
 ing mined right out of the mountains directly back of the town. After- 
 passing through the narrow part we came out into the broadened head 
 of the straights where the great Russian fleet was entirely annihil- 
 ated by the Japanese war vessels, and that of course interested us. 
 
 We arrived at Nagasaki about four o'clock the next morning and 
 went up into this fine landlocked harbor, where a dozen nations 
 fleets could lie in perfect safety fr om any enemy. The harbor is about 
 twelve miles up a narrow necked channel from the sea, between 
 high mountains, filled with concealed batteries and forts. The com- 
 merce is on the down hill at Nagasaki, the reason several people gave 
 me; being that the Japanese did not wish it to become an extensive 
 
39 
 
 port they wanted it for their navy for refuge in time of war, their 
 having very extensive ship-building yards, iron works, and everything 
 
 necessary for fixing up a navy in perfect safety located on the har- 
 bor. 
 
 Wo were anchored close to shore here, and went back and forth 
 to the ship on little steam tenders; there arc no wharves. We had 
 to do the same thing at Kobe and in fact most of the places we land- 
 ed was by steam tenders, sometimes having to go a couple of miles to 
 the landing stages, which when a little rough as it sometimes was, 
 these small boats felt it quickly and many of the women were glad to 
 land. This port is built upon rising hills, each parallel street being 
 higher up than the one below, the only level street is the one on the 
 water front called the Bund. 
 
 The streets here are all the narrow ones of an old city and is 
 the only place in Japan where foreigners were permitted to reside 
 before 1858, the year Commodore Perry arrived from the United States 
 with his fleet, and at this place made his famous treaty with Japan. 
 
 On one hill which we climbed near a Shrine was found the famous 
 old camphor tree., 33 feet in circumference and over a thousand years 
 old. Suwa Park and Temple contains many interesting things; here 
 is the tree planted by General Grant which is very carefully preserv- 
 ed, with a stone monument beside it containing carved in bronze a 
 copy of the autograph letter Grant wrote, at the time of planting the 
 tree. 
 
 The entrance to the Temple is through or rather under several 
 Tori, being Shinto gates to their temples, and the first one here is 
 of massive bronze, thirty-three feet high, the largest in Japan. 
 
 The Bronze horse temple is also here, there being a bronze horse 
 in front of it, and there is always kept a live horse that is consid- 
 ered sacred on the lot; he has a nice little plat in the park all to him- 
 self, but he looks just like any other horse and has a great deal better 
 snap. 
 
 At another part of the park a large platform had been erected by 
 the authorities, on which was given for our benefit, several native dan- 
 ces, part acting and part dancing. They changed dress between each 
 art and were very interesting and somewhat amusing, also somewhat 
 grotesque at times. An amusing thing was a sign hung up to the one 
 side of the stage which read some thing like this: "A costume dance 
 by decent girls." They also had arrow shooting contests and wrest- 
 ling for us. Many other temples were seen some varying from the 
 others, commemorating different things or events in history. A beau- 
 tiful ride was along the hills to a place called Mogi, which many of 
 the party took. 
 
 We were invited out to Tiffin, as the noon day meal is called in 
 Japan, by Mr and Mrs Hepburn who is the Standard Oil representative 
 at this place, and we called at the time named, and were admitted by 
 a Japanese man servant; they are always addressed as "Boy," every- 
 where where men servants are employed in Japan and India. We 
 were cordially and graciously received and introduced to a Col. and 
 Mrs. Irons, who were on their way to Manilla, he going to take charge 
 of his regiment, the 19th, having just served three years in Tokio as 
 Military attache to the American Legation. They were very charm- 
 
40 
 
 ing people Mrs. Irons being a very pretty woman, it was said she was 
 the belle of all the legations at Tokio. Mr. Hepburn was from New 
 York State originally but had been here for nearly thirty years, com- 
 ing to the States occasionally Mrs. Hepburns maiden name was Shaw, 
 her parents home being in Lock Haven, Pa. 
 
 We had a most delightful dinner served us in regal style and from 
 the quaintest china, much of it be ing several hundreds of years old, 
 and of unique, obselete, and curious designs, The house was full of 
 curios which interested us greatly and our stay was so pleasant, that 
 before we knew it it was luncheon time, and we had to stay and have 
 some very fine tea and sandwiches The next day we called to pay 
 our respects and had delicious tea again and met several of the 
 small foreign colony there. 
 
 Both evenings we were at Nagasaki a magnificient display of fire- 
 works was put off for our benefit, from a boat anchored out in the 
 harbor, the display lasting for about an hour and a half; there were 
 many fine aerial pieces, in fact most all was aerial, as being much 
 better seen from all parts of the bay. The fireworks the last night 
 just preceded an enormous lantern parade which was gotten up for 
 our benefit, about ten thousand me n and boys each with some sort of 
 a Japanese lantern, some on long, some on short poles, and carried 
 by hand, and of all sizes participated, headed by a band and the pa- 
 rade weaving back and forth on the hill made a very pretty sight look- 
 ing like myriads of moving fireflies, the distance we were off the shore 
 giving it this interesting effect. 
 
 On one of the greatest and mo s t interesting sights at Nagasaki 
 was the coaling of the ship, where six thousand tons of coal were tak- 
 en on board, every bit handled by hand. Early in the morning of our 
 arrival about a hundred large barges came around the ship most alt 
 laden with coal. A bamboo staging wa s hastly rigged making platform 
 steps about three feet apart. These were erected on both sides of the 
 ship and about two thousand men, women, girls and boys, though 
 they were mostly females, ranged themselves on these various steps, 
 and as close as they could stand, and began passing small baskets 
 each holding about a peck of coal rapidly up from the boats belo w, 
 and this was kept up without cessation until ten o'clock at night, and 
 for several hours the next day until the coal was all on board. They 
 earned from twenty to thirty cents a day. The record in the harbor 
 was fifteen hundred tons of coal put on a boat in two and a half 
 hours in this manner, which is faster than machinery could do. 
 
 The rickisha men are mostly a hard working lot and will keep a 
 going until they drop in their tracks from exhaustion, and in some 
 cases have fallen over dead. 
 
 Everywhere you go in Japan you will find the men who handle 
 the money are the Chinese, they seem to be more reliable and ac- 
 curate than the Japs, the cashiers of the large stores, and banks, and 
 all the money changers are Chinese. 
 
 One of the largest industries of the fine art nature of Nagasaki 
 is the tortoise shell work, and the carving of some of it is very beau- 
 tiful, there are many shops that have it on sale exclusively, and it 
 is made into every conceivable thing that it could be used for. You 
 have to be very careful though as there are many imitations, one 
 
Coaling at Nagasaki 
 
41 
 
 of the best in the imitation line is, a very thin shaving of tortoise 
 shell covering a piece of horn on both sides, cemented so that it 
 takes an expert to notice the difference, and in that way get a good 
 price for something cheap. This in time, if not carefully preserved, 
 shells off from the horn, the veneer is very thin and very cleverly 
 put on. The carving of the regular as well as the imitation work is 
 very good and some nice designs are seen. 
 
 The Japanese Newspapers gave us columns of space, I was inter- 
 viewed by many reporters on various topics sometimes with, and oth- 
 ers without an interperter. In most of the papers I did not care to read 
 my interviews as you had to hold the paper upside down and try and 
 read hen tracks, but as nearly every one took either your picture or 
 a signature which was reproduced, and was all you could recognize, 
 that let us know that something was used, I have several of the pa- 
 pers as curiosities, that I brought home with me. The reporters are 
 just as progressive and as great hustlers as our American ones and 
 are generally a fine lot of fellows, and girls to I should say, as there 
 are many female reporters. 
 
 The great thing that impressed most of us was the large quantity 
 of little black eyed kids everywhere so much so that one bright little old 
 lady, Mrs. A. E. Petherbridge of Peoria, 111., wrote a poem called 
 "The Babies of Japan," which I reproduce: 
 
 THE BABIES OF JAPAN. 
 
 The babies were my great attraction, 
 Babies homely, and babies pretty, 
 Babies galore in every city; 
 I am sure there is no limit at all 
 To children large, or babies small; 
 Babies forming a mighty host; 
 They'd be T. Roosevelt's pride and boast, 
 If from this planet they should be hurled, 
 They'd amply stock a bran new world. 
 Babies dark, and babies fair, 
 Babies with heads shaved close and bare, 
 Others with hair as black as jet, 
 Babies whose hair and eyebrows met. 
 Babies thin, and babies fat, 
 Babies asleep as sound as a bat. 
 Babies awake with a happy smile, 
 Babies whose eyes were stretched a mile. 
 Babies short, and babies tall, 
 I really think I saw them all. 
 
 So many bright little black eyes were there that some day it will 
 be a nation that will have to be reckoned with. 
 
 They have few of what we call factories, in Japan; the so called 
 factories being really shops where six to eight people are employed, 
 though one man may control several of these shops. There are no 
 middlemen in Japan, the manufacturer often selling to the consum- 
 er direct; this with the small profit they are willing to take, and the 
 low cost of materials, and labor, makes everything seem very cheap; 
 it can really be called the consumers paradise. 
 
42 
 
 The common labor is paid on the average of 25 cents a day, the 
 mechanic and artisan from 75 cents to $1.00, and the best workmen 
 can be gotten for that. 
 
 The children always revere their parents and that accounts for 
 the parents not having to lay by anything for old age as they are 
 always taken care of. 
 
 In the many shops you will find the stores on the one side, and 
 the factory on the other; the living room in the rear. 
 
 We noticed in the cities many little steam carts looking like our 
 peanut roasters, and on inquiry and examination found them to be 
 traveling pipe cleaners. The Japs smoke a very small pipe that holds 
 an amount of tobacco about the size of a pea and they get about 
 two puffs out of it at a time, then they have to refill it; it soon 
 becomes foul, and as they have many pipes, the cleaner is kept pret- 
 ty busy. 
 
 The building operations in the cities were somewhat interesting 
 on account of the scaffolding being all bamboo, tied together, not a 
 p.aii being used, they are very strong. 
 
 The various combinations of European and Japanese dress are 
 often amusing, the garments being mixed up in a very ludicrous man- 
 ner. 
 
 The average size of the Japanese farm is from two to five acres; 
 a wheat field will be probably twenty feet square, some more, and 
 many other fields not that much, it would look very funny to our 
 farmers with their many acred fields and farms. 
 
 The social evil in Japan is the one thing it is hard to understand 
 being at so great a variance with ours. Every large city has what 
 is called the Yoshiwara; a segregated district of itself controlled 
 by the government, the girls are called joros to distinguish them 
 from Geisha girls who are of a higher class, though not much bet- 
 ter in a sense than the joro. Girls are sold by their parents for 
 a term of from one to three years to the owners of the "Guild" as it is 
 called, ranging in prices from one hundred to five hundred dollars de- 
 pending on their looks, the time, etc.They come mostly from the poorer 
 classes, as the higher classes would be. In some cities this Yoshiwara 
 is surrounded by a fence with gates and none of the regular inmates 
 are permitted to leave without a permit. In Tokio this place covers 
 a large area of land and contains a total population of about 100,000 
 soul'?, all aepending directly or indirectly on the support accorded it 
 by the patrons. The streets of this small city are clean, well light 
 ed the higher class houses you could tell nothing from their out- 
 side appearance what they were used ^'or, the lower class, having 
 houses with open fronts with large rooms, separated from the 
 passersby on the street by narrow wooden bars, in which the girls sit 
 ior the inspection of the patrons. Often the front bars are gilded 
 and the girls are richly dressed in line silk Kimonas, but all have 
 their faces highly daubed with powder and their lips painted a rich 
 vermillion; so much powder have they that it makes them look ghost- 
 ly, and so few of them ever smile that they are white slaves in looks 
 as well as in acts,and on close inspection, gives them an uncanny ap- 
 pearance. With from ten to thirty girls in these often beautifully dec- 
 orated windows with the brilliant lighting made many a pretty tab- 
 
43 
 
 leau at a little distance away from them. The streets are well polic- 
 ed, the medical inspection of both the inhabitants and the place is 
 under the strictest supervision by the government, which gets a very 
 large revenue from the taxation of both the people and the places. 
 It was perfectly respectable to go through the district sight seeing as 
 there was nothing offensive to the eye or ear of anyone, the de- 
 meanor of the girls being sedate and decorous and that of the crowd 
 very orderly. Some of the slaves seemed to be very happy in the 
 place, others not; some of them say "people kind to them, they do 
 not have to work hard like they would at home," others do not like 
 the life at all and long to get away. What becomes of them after 
 leaving this bondage varies also, many get married others fall to 
 still lower estate, and others die young, either by suicide or disease 
 Many of them, in fact, the most of them just seem stupid. The great 
 reverence with which the parents are held in Japan makes the obey- 
 ing of the child a very proper thing in their eyes, and so they are 
 sold without protest from the girls,and from that prostitution of this 
 sort is not so much of a disgrace in Japan, and that is the reason 
 many of them get married after they get out. 
 
 The question whether it is better or worse than our method is 
 an open one, we make this sort of vice illegal but permit it to exist 
 in sufference in cancer like spots here and there throughout a city 
 taking no notice unless the peace is disturbed by a murder, or by 
 some wild guys, having no supervision or inspection, closed at times 
 by periodical reform waves, but only to open again worse than ever 
 when the wave blows over. There in Japan, run openly, made a busi- 
 ness under the inspection of the government and held in proper 
 check as far as the demand permits 30 thai it is a problem that the fu- 
 ture may solve. 
 
 All through Japan in talking with the merchants, officials and 
 people in all walks of life, all expressed the great friendly feeling they 
 had for the Americans; that they wanted no wars, especially with 
 America, they considered us, and wished to In- considered as their 
 closes! friends and had always done so. They slated that they were 
 debt burdened and wanted peace above all things. There is no doubt 
 whatever unless the powers step in and prevent it, that there will 
 h' 1 another war with Russia, though it may be at some distant day 
 it will be sure to come. They have the feeling in Japan that Russia 
 is not satisfied at all and is using ali her enormous power to over- 
 whelm Japan and wrest Korea andner control in Manchuria away 
 from her. It impressed us all, the great friendliness displayed on all 
 sides, by everybody high and low, and the extra pains that are tak- 
 en to impress this large party of representative Americans from all 
 parts of our great country with that fact, It was one opportunity 
 they had to SHOW IT EFFECTUALLY, and they did it very well. 
 
 The dress of the business and professional Jap wh^n he don't 
 use American clothes is all the same, a dull grey sort of a Kimona, 
 they all look alike in that, but on their arms is generally a small 
 emblem of some sort printed in white and black; this I understand 
 designates their profession, somewhat after the nature the different 
 corps arc designated in one army by vuch emblems as trefoils, cres- 
 cents squares, crosses, etc., 
 
44 
 
 In -Japan, principally at Yokohoma on account of our long stay 
 thr.r<\ most of the men of the par ty purchased as many as a half doz- 
 en silk, cotton, and linen suits for tropics; the prices ran, made to or- 
 der and well made too, from five dollars for cotton, to fifteen for a 
 fine pongee silk suit. The ladies also purchased heavily and it is 
 said that our ship left a total of about two hundred thousand dollars 
 in that city for all sorts of supplies. 
 
 We sailed from Nagasaki, bidding farewell to fair Japan, at ten 
 o'clock on the evening of March 11, and when we struck the open sea 
 after passing out the protected harbor there was a great scurnngfor 
 the staterooms, a heavy blow was ou. 
 
 On Saturday the 12th there was hold a vceting of the Daughters 
 of the American Revolution at which the members of the kindred or- 
 ganizations were present. Neat souvenirs had been obtained in Japan 
 by Mrs. Clark containing a roster of the names of the D. A. R. Sons 
 of Revolution and the Society of Cincinnati that were on board, to- 
 gether with some other matter of interest. Short talks were made by 
 all the men and many of the ladies. An informal dance was held on 
 deck in the evening and all enjoyed themselves very much. 
 
 o O o 
 
YOSH.WARA. TOKYO 
 
 I Vi '#?££*) 
 
 Scenes of Life in the Yoshiwara, Tokio 
 
45 
 
 CHAPTER VI II. 
 CANTON and HONKONG. 
 
 We arrived in Hongkong harbor ai four o'clock on the morning 
 of March 15th, and as I had gotten a (-union No. i party ticket, we 
 had to get up at four o'clock, to take the boats to go about 80 miles 
 up the Pearl river, to the famous city of Canton. Our large party 
 had to be divided up into lots of ahundred, the authorities at Canton 
 would not permit any more being in the city at one time; and it was 
 only after very strenuous work on the part of Mr. Clark, and his aid 
 in Hongkong, Mr. Walker, that he got permission to take anybody up 
 at all. About the time we had arrived at Yokohoma, we got word of 
 the big riot that was going on at Canton, between the soldiers and 
 the police; and in a couple of days there had been several hundred kil- 
 led and the whole city was in a turmoil; that we must not attempt 
 to go there. Mr. Clark insisted because he had advertised a trip to 
 Canton and he was going to carry it out if any way possible to do so. 
 The matter was thrashed out with the legations at Pekin, but Mr. 
 Walker insisted that if they kept our party out they would have to 
 keep every foreigner out, which they did not wish to do. Both the 
 British and American consuls and the Ministers as well as the Vice- 
 roy were opposed but Mr. Walker finally won out and we were per- 
 mitted to go up a hundred at a ti me. Reaching there we were to be 
 divided into smaller parties of ten and each small party had or was 
 to have two soldiers and two policemen as a guard. It would have 
 taken only the least little thing to have started a riot and the Viceroy 
 knew that if anybody was hurt or killed that that would mean his 
 head would go, and that was one of the greatest reasons for his not 
 wanting this large party there at this critical time, he not having 
 punished all the offenders of the last riot; though Mr. Walker said 
 that in the two weeks just proceeding our visit there had been be 
 l ween two hundred and two hundred and fifty beheaded on the exe- 
 cution grounds for the roiting alone. 
 
 We left Hongkong about half-past five o'clock a. m., for the ride 
 up the river against the current, the boat was named the Kinshaw, 
 and was a fine one protected with guns against the river pirates, and 
 in some cases against their own passengers; as only a couple of 
 years ago a couple hundred coolies wont on one of these, boats to go 
 
46 
 
 up the river, and they arose killed some of the crew and first-class 
 passengers and drove the rest off the boat into the river; ran the 
 boat ashore, looting the cargo, and burned it to the waters edge, and 
 that within twenty miles of a fine city like Hongkong. Of course the 
 gunboats came up but all had disappeared with their loot and it was 
 like trying to find a needle in a hay stack to locate and identify the 
 Chinamen that had done the work. I suppose that this is the reason 
 when someone in Canton commits a crime if they do not get the right 
 one right away, they take all who were prsent in the neighborhood 
 at the time and behead them all, to be sure it is the right one. 
 
 The city of Canton was posted full of notices in Chinese, that if 
 
 anybody harmed a hair of the heads of the Americans everybody in 
 
 the neighborhood would be beheaded. We did not know this at the 
 
 time we were there, it would have made us feel more secure if we 
 
 had. 
 
 We arrived at Canton about noon and immediately tied up to 
 the wharf after nearly sinking a few sampams that the river there 
 is full of with families living on them; in fact there, are eight hun- 
 dred thousand of the three million population of Canton lives on boats 
 all of their lives. The city only covers an area about the size of Har- 
 risburg, Pa., and yet over three million people, it is estimated, are 
 crowded into that space. The streets are extremely narrow and dir- 
 ty, houses not over two stories generally, and the people are huddled 
 in like rats. 
 
 We after landing between long lines of police, saw on every side 
 of us in great crowds those sinister looking faces and black scowling 
 eyes; we had to walk in single file through the most crooked, dirtiest, 
 most evil smelling streets, I have ever seen, only four to eight feet 
 wide from wall to wall. The women of our party most of them were 
 half scared to death at seeing the millions of black eyes giving them 
 the stony stare, Pavements were rough uneven stone and wet, and 
 though only a short distance, a few blocks, to the Shameen (Wal- 
 led European Section) some of the party were so badly scared that 
 they would not go any farther, got some guides to take them back to 
 the boat and there they stayed until it sailed down the river in the 
 evening. 
 
 The "Shameen" is an island in the river at Canton belonging to 
 the foreign governments, all the consuls and other foreigners have 
 to live there; it is surrounded by water, walled partly also, and has 
 but two entrances from the city, shut off by heavy iron gates. No 
 Chinaman is allowed there unless he has some business, the police be- 
 long to the various governments in the Shameen. The party was di- 
 vided up into tens as I said before each one in a sedan hair with 
 from three to four naked coolies as carriers wearing nothing but a 
 loin cloth. Accompanied by the soldiers and the police we started 
 on the journey that we thought possibly we would never get back from 
 for the least little thing we would incite trouble and then the "foreign 
 devils" would get it from all sides; particular care was taken by all 
 not to start or cause any trouble. Several amusing things occurred 
 that were not amusing to the party interested. One young lady was 
 in the last sedan chair in a string of ten, the front carrier rod broke 
 
47 
 
 and the Chinaman had to set the chair down for a minute or two to 
 repair it, the front man went back to get something leaving her as 
 she thought sitting down there in the street alone, the rest of her 
 party having gone on ahead around a corner; she became nearly stiff 
 with fright but not enough to keep her from yelling, which she did 
 right lustily, in the meantime the Chinaman came back fixed the chair 
 up and started on just as one of the party and the guide came back 
 to look for her, to her intense relief. The next time she made the 
 guidi; put her in the middle of the part;.- so sin- would not be left a- 
 loae again. Another instance wasa young dta; and dumb fellow with 
 oar parly, but a very bright one, he got lost from the party and was 
 about ready to sit down and cry being badly scared and not able to 
 say anything, though it would not have done him any good if he 
 could, when one of the soldiers accompanying the party came back 
 and found him. 'The soldiers and the police were very careful in 
 most cases if you happened to stray a little you would find one 
 pulling at your arm and it was best to go with him, he found the 
 party quickly, they were in for a heavy punishment if they lost any- 
 body, ami they counted up the tens pretty often on a trip. 
 
 The Sedan chair men tramped over those uneven wet stones in 
 their bare feet, with their frequently very heavy loads backing around 
 Lo get around the sharp narrow corners often hitting pedestrains and 
 buildings with the front handles giving you rude jolts, at which you 
 could say nothing. 
 
 The streets were as I have said narrow and they were also 
 very foul smelling, there being no sewerage whatever; all the filth 
 had to be carried out in buckets swung on a stick over the mans' 
 shoulders, and we often passed long strings of these men, and some- 
 times their buckets would hit the chair and splash, letting off a 
 frightful oder; that with the regular smell made it very bad indeed. 
 Some of the people who wore woolen clothes did not get all the oder 
 out of their clothes for several days. As I said I went on the first 
 party, when I came back a lady asked me if she should take her 
 smelling salts along I answered yes if she had a bucket to carry 
 Lhem in. 
 
 One of the parties coming back to the steamer down near the 
 wharf had to step over a man that had just been murdered and who 
 [aid there in the street.. 
 
 The Sedan chair carriers were after the graft too, for on many 
 occasions they stopped at the farthest end of the city, and sitting 
 down would demand tea money, rubbing their stomachs to show 
 you what they meant, scaring some of the <ad;es so bad they gave 
 them all they had with them; their black looks and naked, sweating, 
 scored bodies being enough to scare most any ordinary mortals 
 Some of the carriers had huge welts often bleeding on their backs and 
 shoulders, where the front and rear cross bars of the chairs cut 
 into their shoulders; and you really sort of pitied them, like you did 
 the little rickisha men. 
 
 We were carried in the neighborhood of six or seven miles that af- 
 ternoon by these men and visited many places really interesting, be- 
 sides the shops; one the Temple of the 500 genii, being carved wooden 
 images to the number of over five hundred representing nearly all the 
 
48 % 
 
 prominent people of China as well as depicting all the passions of the 
 human soul. Each devotee burned sticks in front of the one they most 
 wished to appease at the time. The carving of the statues was very 
 good and you could generally understand what they depicted. 
 
 Some of the main business streets, though narrow, had very gor- 
 geous buildings with beautiful enamelings and carvings. The shops 
 all opened up on the streets, there being no store windows, they were 
 all small, even when piled full of valuable silks and carvings etc. One 
 thing that interested me was the manufacture of the Kingfisher feath- 
 er jewelry. They take a rough form in gold and delicately cut tiny 
 pieces off the feathers of the kingfisher glue them down to the gold 
 along with gold wire outlines in very pretty designs making really 
 beautiful and artistic pins, brooches etc. 
 
 There ivory carvings, embroidery work, rice paper painting and 
 the rougher manufactures were also noticed. 
 
 The Chinese are very industrious here and seem to be busy at 
 something everywhere, except when we came along when they looked 
 at us with their cold stony stare, so different from the smiling Japa- 
 nese. The small streets were crowded at all times and it looked as 
 you could not possibly get through with the chairs without hitting 
 somebody. 
 
 Other interesting points were the cemeteries with their small op- 
 en vaults containing coffins setting up on trestles. The coffins are 
 verj peculiar looking affairs being hewn out of various logs with four 
 sides and two ends all separate but well put together and very heavy, 
 some of them of fine sandal and other- expensive woods, costing as 
 much as three thousand dollars each with their carvings and all, 
 these wei e for the very wealthy, others for the poorer classes were 
 much cheaper and packed together in the>e small places. These 
 places or vaults were rented for short times arid if the rent was 
 pot paid the bodies were done away with and others took their places 
 Candles were burning and offerings su.'iounded the coffin in shape of 
 food, drink, etc., to help them along to the "happy hunting grounds" 
 as the Indians say. 
 
 The execution ground is one of the greatest fascinations to the 
 tourist, the sense of the morbid taking them there. I was informed by 
 Mr. Walker, that in the neighborhood of a million had had their 
 h^ads struck off there since 1850, a sort of a record has been kept 
 since then but goodness knows how many before that time. The head 
 executioner gets paid only for a good clean cut job, must take the 
 head off at one stroke. The executions always take place in the after 
 noons and the bodies and heads are left lying until the next morning 
 as an object lesson, afterwards they are thrown into quicklime pits. 
 As many as fifty at a time have had their heads cut off one man 
 doing all the work. None of our party saw an execution but some 
 got there early in the morning and saw the bodies before they were 
 removed. The orders were from the viceroy to keep us away from 
 there if possible and in most cases the guides succeeded. 
 
 In passing up the river Pearl to Canton many tall stone struct- 
 ures were noticed looming up over everything; and on inquiry we 
 found that they were pawnshops and are built strong to protect the 
 goods stored in them, not only against the elements, but against as- 
 
T3 
 C 
 3 
 O 
 l-i 
 
 O 
 
 c 
 o 
 
49 
 
 saull by mobs; for in times of trouble the pawnshops with their rich 
 stores would be quickly looted if they were not prepared to with- 
 stand assault. The pawnshops are well patronized though one of the 
 Chinese customs helps them along considerably; that is once a year 
 at New \ ears every Chinaman must pay his debts and those who have 
 not the money must sell or pawn th^ir posessions to get it, a good 
 thing lor many Americans to fol low. 
 
 The following poem by Mr. L. A. Sherman is very apropos of our 
 trip to Honkong and Canton and was read at one of the Traveller's 
 Club meetings. 
 
 HONG KONG and CANTON. 
 
 To the rugged isle of Hong Kong, 
 
 Once the rendezvous of pirates, 
 Wrung from China by the Briton, 
 
 Made a garden at his order, 
 Come we next on our long journey. 
 
 At its top a glorious vista, 
 Man's and Nature's cyclorama, 
 
 Lies within the range of vision. 
 Lower peaks and lovely valleys, 
 
 With the city far below them; 
 And beyond a noble harbor, 
 
 Dotted o'er with boats and steamers. 
 All around the isle of China, 
 
 Ocean passage-ways between them; 
 Far away the open ocean, 
 
 And a range of rugged mountains. 
 Hardly elsewhere may we witness 
 
 Grander view than that from Hong Kong, 
 When the sky is free from vapors. 
 
 Sailing up the famed pearl river, 
 Charming views arise before us, 
 
 Till we come to Canton city, 
 Come where thousands live in house boats, 
 
 Wondrous scenes are these we witness. 
 In the narrow streets of Canton 
 
 Who would wonder who would linger,- 
 Breathe the ordes most oppressive? 
 
 Glad to enter, glad to leave them, 
 Is the verdict universal. 
 
 rt«J Shar /' een m Canton is a piece of Europe set down in this 
 strange country, with its broad avenue. Maed with fine trees, its fine 
 st-omj modern houses and stores, and the few Chinamen seen, makes 
 
 ive ciT ^ t0 Y0U When yOU cruss over the brid ^ e int0 the na- 
 
50 
 The shops gen erally ran in groups all the shoe stores being to- 
 gether, same, way with the jewelry, clothing.and other kinds of busi- 
 ness. The shop portions were bu ilt of brick and often had two stor- 
 ies the second story being a much better show room. Some of the 
 richer shops you went into through entrances that were always closed 
 with heavy barred gates and kept closed; but would be opened for 
 you by the watchman if you wished to get in and be closed after you, 
 this was evidently done to keep out robbers who are very bold in 
 Canton. 
 
 You soon become convinced that the writers who describe Canton 
 as the strangest and most wonderful city in the world, could scarcely 
 have exaggerated in the least. Canton is wonderful. We do not see 
 how the most experienced and blase traveler in the world can de- 
 cide otherwise. But whatever there is in it that is attractive, is so lost 
 in the mass that is repulsive and pitiful and disgusting, that one 
 needs time and patience to search it out. 
 
 Adultery is considered the greatest crime in China as I understand 
 it, and for that the penalty is the hundred cuttings. It consists of 
 first cutting off the joints at the fingers and toes piece by piece 
 then the nose, and eyelids, lips and so on; keeping away from any vital 
 points of the body until finally the last cutting is the taking out of 
 the heart; it takes about 20 minutes so that a victim has not the time 
 to die from loss of blood, and it is certainly a horrible torturing death 
 T would like if I had the space to relate many of the things I heard 
 and saw, about and in Canton but it would make a book of itself, On 
 the way up we passed many interesting ruins of old forts which had 
 to be used in the days of the pirates, a few pirate ships would come 
 up the river and kill and loot and escape. The old cannon are there 
 yet, making interesting relics. Piracy is somewhat strong on the river 
 even now despite the strictures and protection. Every nation has 
 small river gunboats there to help prevent it and all the heavily la- 
 den junks and other boats can be seen with their cannon mounted 
 fore and aft ready to repel invad eis. 
 
 The wall around Canton is well preserved and is about six 
 miles long, v. ilhout the river front so that you can get an idea of the 
 small size of the place for the enormous population it contains 
 
 /The markets are full of skinned cats, dogs, rats, etc., but the fish 
 were sold you alive, in the tubs filled with water, and killed for you 
 and cleaned on the spot. 
 
 In the rear of every shop there is a Buddha and Shrine, with joss 
 sticks burning, some of them very elaborate. The flowery or nine 
 story pagoda is also interesting having been built fourteen hundred 
 years before. 
 
 We left Canton at five o'clock and had a delightful moonlight 
 ride down the river, the phospheroscent glow when the boat cut the 
 water out into the waves making a fine sight, the light made by it 
 you could see to read a paper with. Tt was the brightest I have ever 
 s^en. We were all glad to get back to the ship about midnight. Pret- 
 ty fair meals were served us on the boat going up and down the 
 river, by Chinamen. 
 
 Hongkong is an island on the coast of China in the mouth of the 
 Pearl river ceded by treaty to Great Britain and is a great commer- 
 
cial port of which the principal city is named Victoria, though near 
 ly everybody speaks of Hongkong meaning the city of Victoria. It 
 is a beautifully laid out city with wide streets, mostly modern build- 
 ings, and fine stores The harbor is a famous one and well protect- 
 ed by the high hills on both sides of the bay. It reaches in twenty 
 miles from the sea being from one to five miles wide. They have no 
 docks for large vessels, but plenty of good anchorage. 
 
 The city is built up the hill from the bay, about eight miles from 
 the ocean and has many beautiful homes running clear up to the top 
 of the "Peak," access to which is had by a wirerope tramway. The 
 view of the harbor, and the surrounding country from the top of the 
 "Peak" as it is called is magnificient and well worth the visit alone. 
 
 Chinese are the principal part of the population and are here an 
 industrious and quiet people. The city being a British one is well po- 
 liced, clean and healthy, with a good water supply and rather up 
 to date, and contains several fine hotels. 
 
 I had the great pleasure of meeting a Mr. Geo. G. Watkins, a very 
 high Mason and deputy for South China, a 33* and member of the 
 Royal Order of Scotland. I had also the pleasure of visiting an En- 
 glish chartered lodge in Hongkong the work is somewhat different in 
 details, the salient parts being the same as ours. 
 
 There are no horses on the island, at least we did not see any, 
 and they told us six Chinamen could do more work for less money than 
 a horse. The large loads they were pulling like dray horses, made that 
 look very possible. 
 
 The botanical gardens are very pretty with their tropical plants 
 and winding drives. There are very many beautiful sea and landscapes 
 on nearly all parts of the island and a ride for several miles out a- 
 long the shore on a trolley is very interesting. The shops are always 
 a place of interest to the foreigner most all the wares of all the sur- 
 rounding countries for a thousand miles radius being on sale, as well 
 as European and American goods 
 
52 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 THE PHILIPPINES. 
 
 On the evening of Friday, March 18th we left Hongkong for Ma- 
 nilla our next stopping place, it only required two days for the 
 trip, the going being nearly due south. It was a beautiful night, and 
 the ride down the harbor for the two hours it took was well worth 
 remembering, the moon being full with the phosphorescent waters, 
 and the lights of the harbor, the flashing of the light houses, and all 
 made it very impressive indeed On Saturday evening we had a 
 dance on deck which was very much enjoyed. As we were going south 
 rapidly, it began getting much warmer and the linen suits quickly ap- 
 peared; so that by the time we arrived in Manila harbor on Sunday 
 afternoon most of the men had their light suits on, and they were 
 needed. The ride down along the coast of Luzon Sunday morning was 
 very fine indeed and a pretty sight with the changing coast line. 
 We passed Corrigedor Island about two o'clock in the afternoon and 
 all were very much interested in the extensive fortification works 
 the United States Government were o.-ccting there. It is said that it 
 wiU be impregnable for any ships to ^ass the big guns, and the sub- 
 marine mines, without being total ly annihilated, if the forts are 
 properly manned. The north channel is only about a mile wide and 
 the south channel about six miles wide, one on either side of Cor- 
 rigedor Island with a small fortified island midway in the south chan- 
 nel. It is said it will be the smallest fort m the world and is I be- 
 lieve, called Fort Drum, the rock over which it is located is but 176 
 feet long. Its low lying, nearly level with the water on which will 
 be momited two massive turrets with the largest guns. 
 
 About four o'clock we approached the breakwater for Manila har- 
 bor, and were met outside by a dozen launches and tug boats gaily 
 decorated with flags and bunting two of them having bands play- 
 ing, The boats went around the ships exchanging greetings back 
 and forth until the quarantine and custom ol'lisials had finished their 
 duty, and ihen we took the pilot on; who by the way was the same 
 person who took Dewey into Manila Bay on that memorable night. 
 
 As we went through the narrow en l: ran .ie inside the breakwater the 
 mud was stirred up; this being the laigest draft vessel that had ever 
 
53 
 
 ca.T.e into the harbor. The wharf was noticed in the distance, crowd- 
 ed to the edge with people already giving us a ctteering welcome and 
 we soon pulled into the dock alongside I be wharf. By some mistake 
 the boat crashed into the piles of the wharf which were concrete 
 and snapped three of them as if they bad been made of pine wood. 
 That made a little delay for us getting tied up,, cost the Hamburg 
 American Co., some money; and the people on the wharf thought 
 an earthquake had happened it shook so, though we did not feel 
 the shock on the ship at all. 
 
 It was about five o'clock when (he gang-plank was finally let down 
 and we got off onto the wharf amid the greetings of about six thou 
 ?and people. There we were met by the Mayor Felix M. Ro xas and 
 prominent citizens and an address of welcome delivered and answer- 
 ed to. In the interval the famous Philipino, Constabulary band play- 
 ed fine music. The wharf had been divided off by the various 
 state committees, where people in the Philipines from their slate 
 w r ere to welcome us and get introduced. Some states were more en 
 terprising than others having badges, and had hustlers among them 
 who took their own state people in automobiles, and showed them 
 the city, and gave them various receptions etc., in fine style. Out- 
 side the wharf is located the Lunela, so called, a large body of ground 
 made by the U. S. Government by filling up the low swamp near 
 the waters edge, with the materia dredged from the harbor; making 
 a fine body of ground on which «an be built warehouses etc., in 
 the future. At present it is used by the government for the camp- 
 ing of the various regiments as they come and go and for manoe- 
 uvcrs, also part is fixed up as a park,. 
 
 On this ground waiting for us there were a great number of ve- 
 hicles of all kinds that had beei gathered from everywhere rang- 
 ing from the police patrol and government quartermasters wagons 
 to the finest autos. 
 
 We were taken in these and driven around the town for awhile. 
 Some of the more sporting members of the ship drove at once out to 
 where the cock fighting was going on but was about over when they 
 arrived there. I drove to the hotel and there found out, it being Palm 
 Sunday, that the church parade was one of the events of the year held 
 at six o'clock in the evening. I hurried over to the old town and 
 just saw the last of the procession It was very picturesque they had 
 flowers in great profusion made u| into fine boquets, some into fan- 
 tastic creations that together with the gayly dressed Filipinos, helped 
 to make the a novel and curious picture. 
 
 The early part of the evening, a band concert was given on the 
 Luneta, and later a very large number went to what they call the 
 Opera House where a mixed entertainment was had. An address by 
 Senor Ponciano Reyes was very well made; asking to give the 
 Filipinos a chance, being the sum and substance of it. The ad- 
 dress was responded to by Dr. Lorenzo, for our party. The program 
 consisted of vocal and instrumenta music, some of it really very fine; 
 and was lastly followed by a play written and acted by Filipinos, but 
 it was somewhat amateurish. 
 
 We had our dinner at the Ho tel La France earlier in the even- 
 ing, and it was a very good one indeed, I was very much surprised at 
 
54 
 
 the variety and the good cooking. There was many native dishes most 
 of them we enjoyed very much; we had begun to eat a good many cur- 
 ried things now as it helped to ke ep your liver in order; it is a thing 
 that goes wrong easy, and gives the north man the most trouble, when 
 in the tropics, curries being good for it. 
 
 The American government has accomplished much for the city 
 since the occupation; making it a fine healthy place with pure water, 
 drainage, fire and police protection and sanitary work. The new docks 
 are fine ones and more will be built, the harbor has been deepened for 
 the largest draft boats, so commerce is coming that way; and there is 
 really a bright future before the country, with fair treatment from 
 United States. With aid for devel opment, it will soon become one of 
 our most valued posessions, and one of such great value that I would 
 strongly recommend the United States to hold and make good. It is 
 one of the key places for the trade with the Orient being within one 
 thousand miles centre of the most populated territory on the globe, 
 and where all our new markets fro m the outside must come, for our 
 manufacturing interests. 
 
 There is an enormous amount of fertile territory that a later gen- 
 eration of the natives can be taught how to make and multiply, but 
 at present the main body of the Filipinos are not a very good work- 
 ing class; the bane of that country at the present time, being cock 
 fighting and gambling, and until they are broken away from that, 
 will not be of very much use. 
 
 I will try and give you a little description of the cock fighting 
 that helps make the men in the country so worthless, they take much 
 better care of their fighting cocks than they do their own children, 
 giving them the food first and the child gets the rest. Gockfighting is 
 only permitted on holidays, and Sundays but they generally manage 
 to have some sort of a holiday, for some one of the numerous towns 
 around Manilla, about all the time. The cocks are armed in so deadly 
 a manner that their is really not much fighting, it being over in a few 
 seconds; the spurs instead of being pointed spines are long sharp 
 blades, with razor edges and often one blow will partly sever a wing 
 or a leg. The pit is a raised platform surrounded by a railing with the 
 seats all around it in tiers behind an, open space surrounded the pit. 
 in which the betters stand and mak their bets. Before the fight be- 
 gins all the owners bring their game cocks in the ring and arrange the 
 fights and the betting and then the gamblers get busy shaking their 
 money around and all talking at once but everything seems to be 
 peaceable, no disputes were noticed. There was occasional betting on 
 the seats, but nine-tenths of it was done in the betting ring. Quiet 
 reigned during the fight, but pandemonium broke loose as soon as one 
 of the birds was beaten or killed and until the next fight was on. 
 
 It was a strange wierd scene under the dim lights, the motley 
 crowd of gamblers being Chinese, Spaniards, Filipinos and some few 
 other nationalities; all talking and shouting in their own languages, 
 but seeming to understand the money and betting part of it. But few 
 women were noticed this evening at the fight, though they say a great 
 many attend at times. 
 
 There were many disgusting things in regard to eating among the 
 
55 
 
 Japs, Chinese, and even the Filipinos had some, that I think had bet- 
 ter be left out of mentioning, as it would leave a bad taste in the 
 mouth of the reader. 
 
 As a whole, they are not fit subjects for self government; and 
 the United States would be doing them an injury, to give it to them 
 for several generations to come. There are a few bright intelligent 
 men among them and it is all right to have them assist in the gov- 
 erning of the country, so that they will learn progressive and uplift- 
 ing methods of modern government, but those men live mostly in Ma- 
 nilla. The police of Manilla are largely United States ex-soldiers 
 and the Constabulary, the latter have become a pretty fine body of 
 local soldiers all officered by Americans. 
 
 Vice-Governor Gilbert is very popular and a very fine fellow and 
 it is hoped in Manilla, that he will be appointed the next Governor, as 
 the present one is not well liked. 
 
 The old walled city bordering on the river and the Luneta is only 
 a small part of the present city which contains nearly three 
 hundred thousand population. The walls are nearly all intact, the 
 buildings inside, of the old style, the streets narrow; they contain the 
 old churches which are the relics of the Catholic days, when the 
 church owned so much of the country, they are quaint and interesting. 
 The whole appearance of the old city is of four centuries ago; the 
 main city outside of the walls is much more modern, with fine build- 
 ings, wide streets, parks, street car lines, and modern in nearly every 
 ways. The Escolta, the main business street has many fine stores of 
 all sorts, and there are excellent banking facilities. The one place that at 
 traded our crowd the most, and which did a rushing business was 
 Clark's ice cream soda place; he had all the modern American Soda 
 facilities of the best, and served the most delicious drinks of all 
 sorts, it was crowded from morning until night. It is said that he has 
 made along with his speculations, since he came there, ten or twelve 
 years ago, about half a million dol lars, the most of it being from this 
 soda fountain. 
 
 The money of the islands is the peso, the silver piece corres- 
 ponding in size to our dollar but being of the value of only fifty 
 cents, it is divided into 100 centavos there being all the smaller coinage 
 pieces necessary, corresponding to ours in bronze, nickel and silver. 
 The funny thing about it was if you threw down an American silver 
 dollar for a purchase amounting to one peso (fifty cents our money) 
 you got the same sized silver piece back, but it was a peso. 
 
 The natives there are experts on weaving the fine Manilla hats, 
 and plenty of them came around the hotel with them; with prices 
 ranging from two to twenty five pesos for a hat; they were mostly 
 worked double and a fine double one could be gotten for two dollars 
 that would weigh but one and a half ounces. They are sold by the na- 
 tives unblocked , of course, but they rarely block their hats there; just 
 tie a fancy or black ribbon around them to fit the size of the head, 
 and you wear them that way very comfortably. 
 
 Manila has a strangely cosmopolitian population nearly every 
 country having some representative there. The Germans have great 
 commercial interests, they being the principal owners of the big cigar 
 factories. 
 
56 
 
 The sunsets was one of the finest things that attracted my atten- 
 tion, being a strange riot of ever changing colors; everything in the 
 rainbow represented with all its varying shades and colors, from 
 off the bridge looking down the Pasig river with its variety of craft, the 
 walls of the old city, the towers of the churches, the quaintness of 
 some of the other structures along the river all in the foreground; and 
 the ocean or rather bay in the distance made it a picture never to 
 be forgotten. 
 
 On Monday morning the 21st of March we took a boat ride up the 
 Pasig river for about twelve miles to Fort McKinley, it is the fine 
 American Barracks on the only high ground within miles of the city; 
 we thoroughly enjoyed the ride, passing so many places of interest, 
 and the various bridges where the most of the fighting of the Philip- 
 pine insurrection took place. The river is not a long one and really 
 seems to be more of an arm of the bay, there is a great deal of traffic 
 on it in the limits of the city; and many of the princpial buildings 
 and factories are located along its shores. It happened to be wash-day 
 for the natives, and along the banks we saw them beating the clothes 
 on the stones to get them clean, we also saw plenty of the water 
 buffalo all the way along the river, they are used very much for 
 draft animals by the natives. 
 
 In the afternoon we took drives all over the city, visiting the big 
 cigar factories, where in one we saw three thousand Philipinos mak- 
 ing cigars and cigarettes by machinery-; mostly everything was very 
 neat and clean, the girl packers ltd cigarette makers seemed to be 
 very expert. We were very nicely received by the manager and when 
 we left were presented with asmall box of cigars, they were very good. 
 Manilla has its small Chinatown with narrow streets, its Japanese 
 quarters with belter streets; and in the native quarters the streets 
 are well laid out and drained, though the habitations are rather poor 
 structures. I called on acting Governor Gilbert who is a Shriner and 
 spent a very pleasant hour talking to him in his office. He seems to 
 thoroughly understand the natives and how to handle them and thinks 
 there is a good future for the islands with proper care. 
 
 The most interesting sight of all in the modern way, was the fa- 
 mous Bilibid prison, it covers 17 acres of ground with its fifty odd 
 buildings, and can accommodate fiv thousand prisoners; it is said to be 
 the largest in the world, and it is certainly one of the best ones in 
 the world. The natives are treated kindly, they are taught trades, 
 given wholesome food and military exercise and when out on probation 
 are given positions and it is said that over seventy per cent of 
 them have become useful citizens after their discharge. They have 
 large colonies in the other islands where they are taken, and can live 
 on probation having their own local government, without much super 
 vision, being on their parole honor, and very little trouble has ever 
 been had since the new method of treatment. They have their own 
 day and night schools in the prison run mostly by the prisoners 
 themselves. It is claimed to be the model prison of the w T orld. They 
 have a place where part of the goods they make, of all sorts, are 
 sold for their benefit so that a good worker can make money on 
 his own account and leaves the prison with his head up, and be indepe- 
 ndent thereafter and without temptation. 
 
Mellon 
 
 Filipino Belles 
 
57 
 
 We visited the prison about half past four o'clock, and were tak- 
 en in squads up a spiral iron stairway through several sets of iron 
 gates worked from a central tower that had protecting magazine guns, 
 and then out over a narrow walk on top of a wall to the roof of 
 the central tower of the prison and there witnessed one of the great- 
 est sights I have ever seen. The different dormitories all radiate 
 out from this centre so that all parts of the yard can be seen at a 
 glance. The prison band was stationed in one of the yards and at a 
 bell signal, began playing and from every building there came march- 
 ing companies of prisoners in regular order; they were put through 
 a setting up drill of the military and various inarching formations, 
 and given about half hours exercise in this manner. Then they were 
 ali marched to then* quarters got their eating utensils, and then to 
 the places where their food was given them, and in just seven min- 
 utes, every one of those five thousand prisoners had been given their 
 evening supper and were all in their dormitories and then is when 
 they had the laugh on us. At just that moment a very heavy rain 
 started, the place where we were had no roof covering on it; there 
 were about one hundred and fifty of us on this roof with a long nar-» 
 row open walk to travel to get to the gates and go down in the pris- 
 on. Only about fifteen could get through at a time so that nearly 
 every one of us got wet, and many to the skin, as the rains in 
 that country have considerable water in them. But it was a sight I 
 would not have missed for all the ducking. 
 
 It was frightfully hot in the middle of the day, and the humid- 
 ity being high made it seem more so, but the evenings were fairly 
 cool compared to the heat of the day. 
 
 One of the most delightful events of our visit occurred Monday 
 evening, beginning about nine o'clock. The Hippodrome on the carni- 
 val grounds was a huge amphitheatre that was capable of seating a- 
 bout thirty thousand people; the centre of the seating had been re- 
 served for the Cleveland party, the government officials and American 
 officers, and the rest of the seating was pretty well filled with the peo- 
 ple of the town. There was an open plot in front of the seats and 
 to the rear of that was the big exhibition platform, backed by a large 
 shell shaped affair, and in it was seated the splendid Constabulary 
 Band that did such fine work at the St. Louis World's Fair. They 
 are led by a negro who received his musical education in the Boston 
 Conservatory of music. The band contained about sixty pieces and 
 their music was certainly fine. They played many selections. The 
 most interesting event of the evening was the singing of American pa- 
 triotic songs in English by five thousand Filipino school children, 
 led by some of the American lady teachers; it was really a thrilling 
 sight to see those children and hear those childish voices singing the 
 good American airs, and waving American flags; ten thousand miles 
 away from home. This was followed by a flag drill by a squad of the 
 children; and then a very creditable acrobatic performance by the Pal- 
 omar Circus troup. 
 
 Vice Governor Gilbert assisted by the Alcade and other members 
 of the Reception committee, held a reception to the tourists. Dancing 
 to the exellent music of the band was indulged in until midnight, and 
 we had a very good time indeed; the music was so good that it made 
 
58 , 1 
 
 you dance; though the platform was damp and muddy from the af- 
 ternoon rain and the tramping over it by many feet, it did not seem 
 to dampen the ardor of the dancers in any way whatever. iTherewere 
 many of the young army officers of the American occupation present 
 and they were very glad to get acquainted with our pretty Amercau 
 girls on the Cleveland, there being so few on the islands. It was a 
 very enjoyable affair all through. 
 
 On Tuesday we shopped aroundthe city and took in more of the 
 sights to be seen before sailing at four o'clock in the afternoon. Just 
 before that I had the pleasure of meeting Lieut. James Taylor of 
 the 12lh Infantry who comes from my home, and lunched with him at 
 the fine Army and navy Club, the officers have in the old walled city. 
 He had missed me on account of the large crowd on landing on Sun- 
 day afternoon and also when he had called at the ship on Monday. 
 T was very glad to see him, as he was me and we spent several hours 
 talking together and sightseeing, be showing me some of the points 
 of interest I had not seen before. 
 
 One of the best known fruits of the Phillipines is the mango, 
 something of a cross between a canteloupe and a plum is the best 
 description I can give of it, being about the size of a canteloupe with 
 a large centre seed like a plum and the meat a cross between. When 
 they are just ripe they are very delicious and also very juicy with 
 a peculiarly sweet flavor and to be thoroughly enjoyed should be eaten 
 only in a bathtub; great care must be taken in seeing that they are 
 not too green or too ripe or they will cause you a large amount of 
 internal troubles. On Wednesday night we had a pineapple and man- 
 go party on the aft hurricane deck given by Mr. Ira Smith and con- 
 siderable sport was had. 
 
 This poem of the Phillipines is also by Mr. Sherman. 
 
 IN THE PHILLIPINES. 
 
 When Dewey's brave squadron sailed into the bay 
 
 Of harassed Manilla, one morning in May, 
 He gave to a people, by Spain long oppressed, 
 
 A charter of freedom, to work out their best; 
 While our nation assumed one more burden to bear, 
 
 Of the white man's high duty accepting its share. 
 Right well have that duty and work been pursued: 
 
 Insurrection was crushed and rebellion subdued; 
 And everywhere order and law are maintained 
 
 For a people in self ruling yet to be trained. 
 We hail our proud flag as we sail up the bay, 
 
 As it floats o'er Manilla. Most fair is the day, 
 And warm is the welcome extended us here. 
 
 Long shall we remember these days of good cheer. 
 
59 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 OFF FOR BORNEO and ACROSS THE EQUATOR. 
 
 On the 21st of March at four o'clock we cast loose from the pier 
 which was crowded with several thousand of our newly made friends 
 who came to wave us adieu; sorry to see us depart as we were sorry 
 to go, having had a very pleasant time in our island posessions. The 
 bands were playing and several launches accompanied us down the 
 bay for some distance. We were headed for the well known island 
 of Borneo, that has been the desire f so many to visit from their youth 
 ful days. On the way down the bay we passed near to Cavite and 
 close to where Dewey did so much damage to the Spanish and annihil- 
 ated their fleet, and then we went on out the South passage off Cor- 
 regidor Island to the open sea, the same passage through which 
 Dewey had come into the bay over the torpedoes. 
 
 We continued our going south and it became pretty warm, my 
 stateroom being poorly ventilated I took my rug and pillow, and put- 
 ting on my pajamas and bath robe went on deck and slept all night, 
 and enjoyed it so much that I slept on deck all the rest of the time I 
 was on the Cleveland. Though we had to get up at six o'clock, the 
 swimming tank had been erected forward and filled with clean sea 
 water, and a visit to that for a half an hour every morning after 
 arising, made you feel like a lark and fine for the rest of the day. 
 I slept on the aft hurricane deck under the canvas sun cover that 
 was kept on all the time so that you did not get much of the cinder 
 and it also kept off the few rain squalls we had. At Borneo I bought 
 a double woven flexible bamboo mat and at Batavia a wicker reclin- 
 ing chair and thereafter was comfortable the rest of the voyage. In 
 the tropics the important thing is to cover your stomach with some- 
 thing warm when sleeping if you do not you will get some sort of 
 intestinal troublesthat is often dangerous, so I used to throw my 
 bathrobe around my stomach and with no other cover except my sleep 
 ing garments, except possibly a few nights that a cool breeze would 
 strike up when I threw the other half of the bamboo mat over me. 
 
 You could buy abdominal bandages in the stores and many did so 
 wearing them constantly, without a doubt preventing much of the sick- 
 ness usual in the tropics. 
 
 On Friday the 28th of March we arrived in Victoria Harbor at 
 Labaun one of the islands of the Borneo Group. It is off the west 
 
60 
 
 coast of the main island of Borneo and has an area of about thirty 
 square miles. It is separated from the mainland by a rocky but navi- 
 gable channel and is about half way between Manilla on the north- 
 east and Singapore to the Southwest and a half way stopping point 
 for coaling, and a sort of a hospitable half way inn for ships sailing 
 between these points; a port of shelter for hurricanes and for re- 
 pairs of small kinds needed in a hurry. The island is mountainous 
 and has a rich soil, but somehow in the freakishness of development 
 in this isolated quarter of the world it has not pressed forward 
 with the activity its location and resources warrant. 
 
 It posesses a fine harbor and a second harbor which is nothing 
 extra but serviceable. The water supply is good and there are mines 
 with abundant coal of a fair steaming grade. The Sultan of Borneo 
 ceded the island to Great Brittain in 1846, and 1892 the island passed 
 under the commercial control of the British North Borneo Compa- 
 ny. The population is about ten or eleven thousand Malays and 
 Chinese. Some day the many advantages of Labaun will be apprecia- 
 ted and then it will come to the front, but at present it is practical- 
 ly marooned in the sea of commerce; and with the Dyaks and head- 
 hunters at its back, and a wild country not far distant in the main- 
 land, it is a spot to appeal to the traveller hunting for the wild and 
 unknown. The island is named Labaun, the harbor Victoria har- 
 bor, and the small town named Victoria. Three large weather-beaten 
 docks are there and at one of them we landed in tenders. The loose 
 planks and boards and generally run down appearance showed that some 
 thing was amiss. Low open sheds were at the end of the docks and 
 ran along the beach for a distance evidently well stocked and behind 
 them ran the main street of the town which for over a half mlie 
 stretched away parallel to the water. At first the street is lined a-- 
 long the seaward side by warehous es and then it leads along a slender 
 grove of palms which fringe a nar row beach. In the other directions 
 beyond the docks is a long coal shed and behind it were many hundreds 
 and probably thousands of tons of coal, Beyond the coal an inlet stud- 
 ed with native huts of bamboo poles and banana leaves and thatched 
 with palmetto leaves and fibre. Still further away was the wood- 
 land and beyond that the jungle. I enter details a little about the coun- 
 try because you do not see much about it in encyclopedias or else- 
 where. The few English people in the place were glad to see us and 
 the whole town took a holiday. We landed about eight o'clock and soon 
 ran over the place looking for shops with curios, finding few, but 
 found beyond that many of the natives had many curios things to 
 sell in the shape of baskets, beads, w arknives and many other implem- 
 ents etc., on which exorbitant prices were put for our benefit, and from 
 which a harvest was reaped despite the fact that many would not pay 
 the prices asked. 
 
 We bought one shop all out of bamboo mats which we found such 
 a good thing to put under the sheets of the bunks and to sleep on, 
 and under, on the decks. They were soft and pliable and woven 
 closely and of several layers thickness I bought the first one and set 
 the price at about eighty-cents our money, and though they often got 
 more, most only had to pay that sum that knew what the price had 
 been made. . 
 
a 
 
 3 
 O 
 u 
 
 o 
 
61 
 
 The streets were grass grown with a sort of a track made by the 
 few bullock carts that travelled it in a day, and really was proud to 
 boast of a concrete gutter on the one side of the street, but of what 
 use it was except a receptable for rubbish I could not see. There was 
 not a hotel in the place to the great disappointment of many on the 
 ship who had the label or "sticker" craze and if there had of been one 
 the proprietor could have reaped a harvest with most any price for the 
 stickers from such an out of the way part of the world. The fact 
 of it was that our crowd cleaned all the hotels wherever we went out of 
 their labels and stickers, they would certainly get well advertised 
 from the way they were distributed all over the United States. 
 
 There were no rickishas or other methods of conveyance to be 
 hired and all had to tramp in the sun, though a few bullock carts 
 were in evidence they were so aw fully slow that it was much easier 
 to walk. A minature railroad ran out about six miles to the coal 
 mines and the trains ran so slow anybody could jump on them. 
 
 Nearly everybody went to the post office and they were literally 
 swamped and got good prices for their cards they had on sale and 
 most all were mailed from there, our ship took the mail to Singa- 
 pore, as it might be many moons before another ship that would take 
 mail would come along. 
 
 We thought the weather was very hot here but they told us that 
 it happened to be one of their delightful cool days and we wondered 
 whether they were "joshing us" or not and were glad that it was not 
 one of their other days. It must be a very lonely place indeed for the 
 for the few whites there. 
 
 After through strolling around the place we went out to a sort of 
 a fair ground and track they had on which a programme of sports 
 was carried out that had been arranged for our benefit. There was 
 considerable sport, as Mr. Clark had arranged for a lot of natives to be 
 brought from the interior, they being mostly the Dyaks or head hunt- 
 ers and gave contests in knife and spear throwing, Low and a^row 
 shooting, wood chopping, running buffalo races that did not make any 
 mile a minute speed for if they had to go a mile they would have been 
 going yet I am afraid; cocoanut husking, blow pipe shooting and the 
 various native dances all depicting something but at even which many 
 of us could not make guesses. 
 
 The head hunters dance which was first on the programme was 
 very grotesque. From a sort of a dressing room under what would be 
 called the judges stand two brown brothers came out in silk breech 
 clouts that were remiss in length and gaudy yellow scarfs and pro- 
 tected by a bark shield and a spear. An orchestra of natives sat 
 cross legged on the turf and banged on tom-toms and crashed hollow 
 symbals and played on something that might be called a musical in- 
 strument but instrument of torture would be better, the name is un- 
 known. The two dancers circled around each other prancing and ca- 
 vorting, one making bad naughty faces, and the other glaring back 
 defiance. This they did for some minutes while the spectators bak- 
 ed in the sunlight. Next the two brown brothers drew their creases 
 and stuck their spears in the turf. They called out once in a queer 
 squeak and fell to shouting. In a minute or two the tumult and 
 shouting died, and the Dyaks faded away in the crowd. Their spear 
 
62 
 
 throwing was not very good but their blow shooting with sumpitans 
 as they are called, was very good often hitting the small targets, they 
 are hollow reeds, about seven feet long. 
 
 The other natives who did the dancing for us were not bothered 
 much with clothes; a few feathers in the hair, some rings on their fing- 
 ers and toes, and bracelets on their arms and some with feathers around 
 their waists comprised their full dress suits. Even the usual native 
 plug hat was not in evidence as being part of their dress here, though 
 we afterwards saw a couple of a vintage before the war on some oth- 
 er of the natives. 
 
 A good many of the things performed by the natives could have 
 been seen at the "Wild Men of Borneo" villages at the various World' 
 Expositions but it had the flavor here of being the real thing on their 
 own ground. There were a couple of jugglers also who did some of the 
 well known and old time tricks with snakes and plants etc. 
 
 The natives strongly objected to having their pictures taken and 
 and it took a great deal of coercing and threatening to get them to 
 stand up before the large number of camera fiends who pointed their 
 harmless guns at them. Many of the fiends obtained some very in- 
 teresting pictures. 
 
 The money in use here was the same as would be used at the 
 Straits Settlements in which Singapore is situated, it being a British 
 colony, the Governor of the Straits having jurisdiction over these 
 islands. The Straits dollar is worth about 68 cents in our money and 
 is divided up into one hundred cents so that a cent is worth about two- 
 thirds of a cent with us. It is cal led dollar and cents the same names 
 and has the usual small coinage, The same names for the money and 
 the unequal amount made it very difficult for many of our people to 
 get it straight in their minds. The stamps for the mail are the same 
 as the Straits also.. 
 
 We left this interesting isle in the afternoon and continued our 
 journey southward toward the island of Java our next stop on the 
 itinerary. 
 
 We were all very much distressed to receive the news, when we 
 returned to the ship, of the sudden death in New York of the daugh- 
 ter of Dr. Lorenz and his wife, who had just received the sad news 
 and it put somewhat of a damper on the passengers as the Doctor and 
 his wife were very much liked. Everybody sympathized with them 
 in their bereavement especially as they had done so much to make our 
 journey a pleasant one. To show the strangeness of fate, at our next 
 mail port Singapore about ten days after he received a letter from 
 her speaking of how well she was etc., and this some time after re- 
 ceiving the cablegram of her death. 
 
 During the time we were in the tropics the lectures and Travellers 
 Club meetings were held on the dec k and were well attended as near- 
 ly everybody lived on deck the most of the time, the staterooms were 
 somqwhat close, the Captain and those who had been over the route 
 before said we had had exceptionally fine weather, very few were ill 
 and those minor troubles from not taking proper care of themselves 
 I had begun taking small quantities of quinine shortly after leaving 
 HongKong and I advise everybody to do so going from the north to 
 those countries. I had no trouble whatever except a little with my 
 
63 
 
 liver but a dose or so of calomel and Hunyadi water soon made that 
 all right. Care must be used in eating fruits of the tropics to get on- 
 ly the inside or meat and avoid the outside or skin as that is where 
 the danger of the fevers principally lie. 
 
 On board the ship we had no mosquitoes whatever, not even when 
 we landed in ports did they get on the ship very much, and then a 
 small bottle of citronella oil, which can be gotten at nearly any drug- 
 store, with a few drops rubbed into the hands and rubbed over the ex- 
 posed parts prevented them or other insects from biting you and thus 
 giving you fever germs. 
 
 On Sunday was Easter day and every table had a big basket of hard 
 boiled colored eggs on it in a sort of a nest and a very large goose made 
 out of stearine or white tallow and decorated with flowers, and at 
 the evening dinner we had another nice specially planned and print- 
 ed menu 
 
 The great event of the Easter Sunday, was the celebrating of 
 the crossing the equator, which had occurred early in the morning of 
 that day, and was to be appropriately celebrated in the afternoon, at 
 which time all who had never before been properly baptised by King 
 Neptune, were to receive that sacred sea right. Several days before 
 Chief Officer Kruse of the ship had asked me if I would get volun- 
 teers to be initiated by Father Neptune as it would take too long to 
 go through with all the large passenger list in the proper fashion, 
 and therefore a few would have to do duty for them all. I immediate- 
 ly volunteered and put my name down on the list and went around 
 among the passengers and obtained about thirty, fifteen girls, and fif- 
 teen men, my only warning to them being to put on your eld clothes, 
 that you did not mind a ducking in, at two o'clock on Sunday after- 
 noon. 
 
 On Saturday night about nine o'clock a great noise was heard at 
 the bow of the ship, and a blueish green light burned down in front 
 of the bow that was followed by a hoarse hail, "Cleveland Ahoy" an- 
 swered by the Captain with "What do you wish and who are you" 
 back came the answer "I am the representative of Neptune whose 
 domain you are approaching and wish to board you." "Come ahead' 
 was the answer in German, and down the deck with big strides came a 
 huge fellow with long whiskers and hair of tow, tarpaulin coated, and 
 went up on the promenade deck where the Captain and a large 
 crowd of passengers were assembled. He stated that King Neptune 
 had sent him to notify us that he would visit us with his retinue a ! 
 two o'clock to-morrow afternoon (Sunday) ; he then recited a sea 
 poem, and drank off a big stein of beer without taking it down from 
 his lips, and passed away forward as he had come amid loud noises 
 and blue lights. It was an interesting part of the evening and whet- 
 ted the appetite for what was to come on the morrow. 
 
 All was expectancy about two on Sunday afternoon, the weather 
 being clear and very warm; the midship deck had a large platform 
 erected in the centre over the hatch, where it could be seen from all 
 sides, the decks above, as well as the one on which the platform was 
 erected. The large canvas swimming tank was located close against 
 one side of the platform and was about four feet deep and filled 
 with warm soa water. A round pole, used as a rail, was on the plat- 
 
64 
 
 form above the tank. A lone fisherman furnished fun for the wait- 
 ing spectators, fishing on the edge of the tank with a large salt mack- 
 erel attached to his hook, his comical attire and antics furnishing 
 much amusement for the crowd, especially when he would fall a- 
 sieepand tumble into the tank with many gesticulations of dismay at 
 the mishap. 
 
 Every vantage point was crowded, nearly all the passenger list 
 being around with the exceptions of a few of the scared ones who 
 had taken to their state rooms to hide, for the fear of what Nep- 
 Lune might do to them. A large hose was playing into the tank all 
 the time to keep it full and for other purposes later explained. 
 
 The procession started from the bow of the ship amid great 
 noises and hails seemingly from the sea. The right of the column was ta- 
 ken by the ships band, tricked out ina mandlin, errant mixture which 
 made the streets of Cairo seem a monastery. Scarlet skirts with 
 ermine facings and canary buttons of heroic size were merely a star- 
 ter. One apostle of music was radiant in a white spiketail with angel 
 sleeves puffed in black and lapels of vermillion decorated with diago- 
 nal bands of copper paint. Take a manufacturer of kaleidoscopjes ou 
 to a midnight lunch of mince pie, sliced tomatoes, and lobster 
 salad, and Neapolitian ice cream, and you might hope, if you were 
 lucky, that when he was at the height of his nightmare his dreams 
 would give him a faint idea of the jumbled medley of the band's rai- 
 ment. 
 
 But the band was only the beginning, the sort of preface to the 
 parade. Four Nubian slaves with silver arm bands of huge size, of 
 pure sheet tin and huge gold nose rings of simon pure brass and palm 
 fiber ballet skirts of true rope yarn and plenty of skin covered liber- 
 ally with lamp black, were the introduction to the valiant soldiers 
 etc., the like of whom were never seen before on that or any other 
 equator. Two of the warriors were gorgeous in Prussian Uhlan hel- 
 mets With nodding plumes; sailors raincoats faced with green and 
 painted in copper were a small part of the rest of the uniform. They 
 carried huge paper mache swords. Two other soldiers were dressed 
 as tribesmen from Thibet with bow and arrows. Other soldiers in e- 
 qually fantastic garbs preceded the piece de resistance of the parade. 
 Short and squat with a side elevation like that of Bartlett pear 
 the boatswain helped your digestion the moment you cast eyes upon 
 him. His pot belly was a poem. The jolly little fellow in height, 
 but jolly big fellow in girth, wore with great dignity a "choker" which 
 might fit a bull calf. He wore it like a cat coming down a tree 
 'hind sidebelore. With it was a tie of Chinese vermilion a yard 
 long. A spiketail of Canton flannel concluded the costume, for the ro- 
 tund bos'n was bare legged and barefooted. 
 
 The Chaplain came next with a huge mortar board on his head 
 covered in black, as was his rig and also the book he carried, which 
 seemed to be a yard square and covered with Malay and German 
 characters. Then came King Neptune himself and a mighty King was 
 he with all his retinue and the royal raiment. He was much over six 
 feet tall had immense mustaches, of ship tow, a foot long, and a beard 
 about three feet long of combed rope yarn, which made a warlike 
 shield for his immense chest and corporation. In one mighty hand 
 
CO 
 
 p 
 cr 
 
65 
 
 he grasped a trident with a shaft alone eight feet long and three e- 
 fciormous gilded teeth. A tunic of blood red flannel descended to the 
 royal thighs. With him came his royal consort in piratical black 
 with a huge golden crown serrated with large teeth. So well gotten up 
 was she that at first, it was supposed to be a stewardess until the roy 
 al feet of generous proportions were seen, when all doubt vanished 
 "she was a man." Then followed the "Astronomer" "The Photogra- 
 pher" and several other satellites of various lower degree, including 
 the policemen and other natives as Tamils, Hindos. and Egyptians, 
 Quite a kingly retinue I can assure you. 
 
 The procession paraded all around the ship on the various decks 
 and finally emerged on the platform on the aft hatch cover where 
 the Captain welcomed the royal visitor and turned the ship over to 
 his hands, Poseidon shot gutteral thunder at the Captain and proceed 
 ed to decorate him with a gorgeous 'cross and order about the size of a 
 large dinner plate, and to some of the other officers similar decor- 
 ations, also to Mr. and Mrs. Frank Clark, giving them appropriate bap- 
 tisimal sea names. 
 
 First several of the lady passengers of the ship had their names 
 called and came up one by one, had a long harangue read to them by 
 the chaplain, was given their sea name and then the barber took 
 a huge atomizer and sprayed their faces with cologne, and their cer- 
 emony was over and they stepped down. 
 
 I had my name called first of the men and being dressed for the 
 occasion I stepped on the platform with my back against the rail over 
 the tank., The Astronomer performed with his compasses on his 
 chart, read me a dissertation in German and christened me the bap- 
 tisimal name of "Bugsprietius," Every one on the ship was given a 
 different name. Then little Bill the barber carefully lathered my fa c e, 
 head and anything near, with a large whitewash brush full of soap 
 suds that he had in a bucket in lieu of a shaving mug. He took a huge 
 razor with a blade about two feet long made of wood and carefully 
 soraped my face etc., cut my hair with a pair of wooden scissors a- 
 bout three feet long, and then I turned a flip flop backwards over 
 into the tank, was soused and the hose turned on, and then I went 
 to the edge of the tank and waited developments. 
 
 Several of the ladies and mens names were called in rotation, 
 the ladies being baptised as I have before related, the men similar to 
 mine, but some of them not knowing when they were to be put into 
 the tank, were caught and dumped rather unceremoniously and well 
 ducked by the Nubians below until they were sputtering and blowing 
 at the unexpected ducking. A couple of the girls were disappointed 
 having had hopes of being ducked in the tank also. 
 
 The Chief Offfcer had had two lines of hose run up in the rat- 
 lines with large sprinklers on them, but in such a manner that they 
 were not easily noticed. The crowd were enjoying the sight to the 
 fullest extent with a zest of a lot of school boys, but someone dis- 
 covered a couple of sailors going quietly up the ratline, and then 
 noticing the hose also running up ending with the large tin spray- 
 ers, gave the alarm and the crowd began to try and get away, I soon 
 realized that a great deal of coming fun would be lost unless prompt 
 action was taken and with a yell I jumped into the tank grabbed a. 
 
66 
 
 hoM of the hose an<3 turned it on the crowd everywhere, and the fun 
 became fast and furious, those in the front ranks tried to get a,way 
 and those in the rear pressed forward to see. and between the two 
 the crowd was held until the great majority of them had gotten a 
 thorough wetting and baptism that they had not counted on at all 
 to the great enjoyment of all, as those who got it so badly had to 
 take it good naturedly just the same Some got away, but the 
 
 noise and laughter showed them that they were missing something, 
 and back they would come only to get the hose turned on them. Af- 
 ter awhile, giving the hose to some of the other fellows who were 
 aiding in the fun, I took the bucket and with a quick throw would 
 duck some far up, that were not in the line of the hose. In all about 
 three hundred received a pretty fair wetting and a good deal of amuse- 
 ment wias had for a few hours and for sometime afterwards, discuss 
 ing the various escapes. Some of those who had been called up 
 forgot to take their watches and bill books out of their pock- 
 ets and of course the watchmakers a t the next port had some work 
 in their hands. 
 
 Taking it all in all it was a novelty that helped put away in a 
 hilarious manner the nice warm equatorial day and was really en- 
 joyed by all as the boy spirit of fun, even though subdued when 
 one gets old and gray, will still crop out and bring; back memories of 
 their early days. 
 
 The certificates of Equatorial baptism given by the ships peop 
 were handsomely lithographed, about the size of two typewrite! 
 sheets, containing a picture of Neptune riding the seahorse accom- 
 panied by a couple of sea dragons, a picture of the Cleveland in the 
 distance riding the waves. The certificate was edged with gold, the 
 general color blue, and below in one corner was printed this certifi- 
 cate the names being filled in. The reading was in German, but I 
 give you the translation as it reads. 
 
 We Poseidon the only son of Chronos, Prince Trident, 
 lawful ruler of the violetblue high seas, earth girdler and 
 earth shaker, have most graciously permitted the earthborn 
 "Mr. Geo. T. Bush" on board our friendly Hamburg American 
 liner "Cleveland" to pass carefully over our equator. 
 
 This, in our sea law declared equator christening in- 
 appropriately and satisfactorily done. 
 
 The christened child tears in this region, according to 
 custom the sea name of "liugsprietius" which he must bear 
 from now on in joy and sea sorrow in our realm. 
 Given on March 27, 1910. 
 
 POESIDON. 
 (seal of the trident attached) 
 
 Some wanted to know how you could tell when you had crossed 
 the equator and when they would ask the Captain he asked them if 
 they did not feel the bump, and they sort of half believed him and, 
 thought they did feel a slight shock- 
 
67 * 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 JAVA and SINGAPORE. 
 
 We were in sight of land, one place or another, after leaving La- 
 baun. all the way to Java, most all being islands of some sort, from 
 those of the low coral formation to the high volcanic formation. The 
 low coral ones with their fringe of cocoanut palms on the horizon 
 made the picture, you have often seen in books, of the South Sea 
 isles, but now we saw them in reality. We could no longer see the 
 North star; bujt both the false and real southern cross showed up 
 nicely in the sky for a few hours very night. 
 
 We arrived at the port of Batavia, Java on Monday morning- Mar. 
 28; the port is called Tandjong Priok, being about five miles from 
 Batavia proper. Our ship being so large vv i had to anchor outside 
 the roadstead, and take a smaller boat to go into the harbor. A 
 rather large side wheel steamer came tb take us off, and it was a 
 nuisance of the worst sort; the whole lot of passengers had to get on 
 3 one boat and we were four hours from the time we; got in the 
 roadstead until we landed. While little tenders would have taken 
 us much quicker, but the port has but few of the small boats. 
 
 After landing at the fine concrete docks we took the trains that 
 had been provided for us to go to Batavia, as it were, though all this 
 is Batavia, that is divded up into four large sections as follows: Tand- 
 jong Priok where the warehouse customs and port are; Weltever- 
 den with the hotels and retail shops and Meester Cornells which is 
 the fashionable residence district. We went direct to Weltveerden, 
 some getting off at Batavia to take the train for Buitenzorg, about 40 
 miles up in the mountains; whereis said to be the finest botanical 
 garden in the world; the other one to dispute it being the fine one 
 at Kandy in Ceylon. 
 
 We took tiffin in a large pavillion in a fine public park in Wel- 
 tevreden. and were entertained during the meal, by native Japanese 
 dances on a stage erected at one end of the pavillion. Everything 
 closes up here in the middle of the day and we did not feel much 
 like going around in the hot sun, enjoyed the shade of the trees in 
 the gardens better; but later in the afternoon we all took the little 
 dos-ados being little two wheeled carts with the seats back to back 
 and pulled by a little shaggy maned horse. It was fun getting in- 
 
68 
 
 to some of them, once or twice when I stepped on the rear step, I be- 
 ing so heavy up came horse driver and all and I had to hurriedly get 
 on and shift my weight forward to equalize the load. 
 
 Ground seems to be of small value in Weltevredon, as all the 
 houses have so much surrounding them; the parks are all quite ex- 
 tensive, and the Hoted des Indes the finest one there, has sixty a- 
 cres of ground surrounding it, In front of this hotel is the sacred 
 Worrington Tree, somewhat like the Banyan in appearance, its leave 
 are veined on the outside giving it the appearance of being turned- 
 inside out, and of course there is a legend connected with it, as with 
 everything out of the ordinary in these countries; the Buddhist na- 
 tives say that Mother Magi when expecting to give birth to Buddha, 
 secreted herself in this mammoth tree, and all the roots closed around 
 and the leaves turned also to hide her. The tree covers a greatdeal 
 of ground, said to be the second largest in the world of the banyan 
 tribe. 
 
 The tomb of Peter Eberweld who was beheaded for revolt in 
 1722 has above it, placed on the stone, his skuld which has been 
 whitewashed so much that it looks like stone itself. It contains this 
 inscription; Punishment of the country against Peter Eberweld, 
 no one shall be allowed to build on this place, nor to plant anything 
 on it throughout all eternity— April 17, 1722. 
 
 The exhibitions given by the actors on the stage at one side of 
 the pavillion were all interesting. The various knife, sword* axe, and 
 other drills were good and all signified something. Many parts of 
 scenes were enacted sometimes with men, sometimes with women 
 only, and then some in which both took part, the music accompani- 
 ment being behind the scenes. Their costumes were most elaborate.AH 
 the natives wear bracelets, e v en the lowest of the types, both on 
 ankles and wrists. 
 
 The reception by the natives in Java, to our party was most cor- 
 dial and openhearted, somewhat similar to the one met with in 
 Japan, it was the last we received as an American party. 
 
 The town is well laid out with wide streets, smooth and well shad- 
 ed on both si d es, and even the old town of Batavia with the native 
 quarters has fairly wide good streets, The various points of interest 
 were visited but I enjoyed the native quarters best where I saw them 
 {printing the fine Javanese cloth by hand, making silver filagree 
 work, weaving baskets and chairs, and making dainty nicna<cs out of 
 bamboo, caraboo hide, and many other things. The fruits are very 
 fine cannot be grown or brought aw/ay from that country, some of 
 them are most delicious; but I was very timid about eating them, did 
 not want any internal troubles in these climates. 
 
 They have a fine playground one mile square in the centre of Wei 
 treverden in which all the sports take place and on which fronts many 
 of the principal buildings. The most interesting of these is the 
 Museum, being one of the finest we had visited having the most 
 complete archeological and ethnol ogical collection of everything of 
 all the races back for two thousand years arranged in dynasties, and 
 I wias sorry that time was limited for a more careful study. We vis- 
 ited many other points of interest. Canals run all through the town, 
 
Laundering in Batavia 
 
 Primitive Street Sprinkling 
 
m 
 
 the natives use these for all purposes; one place you would see the 
 children, men and women all bathing together, the next the women 
 washing clothes or anything else they had to clean, including rice 
 and eatables, all in the same dirty stream. The children wore no 
 clothes at all, sometimes a string around the waist, and some of them 
 would have a siber or tin ornament hanging on the string in front 
 The Javanese women are slender but well formed, rather under size; 
 they wear but one garment it being a piece of cloth wrapped around 
 the body under the arms, and it seemed to stay on without the aid 
 of pins or buttons. This garment permitted the free use of their 
 bodies and was rather picturesque, especially as the most of them wore 
 the native print cloth; they carry themselves very erect caused by 
 carrying everything on their heads. 
 
 This print cloth is called Sarong but is now being imitated by ma- 
 chinery in Germany and imported there. I as usual, loved to roam 
 through the native quarters always finding hosts of things to interest 
 me, and I did this on Tuesday going by myself all over old Batavia 
 seeing much that was interesting and quaint. The city has electric 
 roads, and aJso noisy little steam tram roads running to all parts of 
 it, and out into the country some distance. Though it was warm in 
 the sun, the houses were rather cool anct comfortable inside, gener- 
 al :y being built of light bamboo. The houses of the upper classes 
 e better, but of light construction a funny thing I noticed in the 
 evening;, well to do people, well dressed in European styles would 
 sitting en the porches both men and wiomen in their bare feet and 
 often had them on the reading tables. 
 
 Chinamen are numerous in Blatavia and inter-married with the na- 
 ive women very extensively. In the money of the country, the unit 
 i alue is the Gu4der,being worth about forty cents of our money, and 
 is divided up into one hundre d cents with the regular smaller coin 
 pieces from one cent up. The Dut c h are certainly good rulers there 
 seeming to be no unrest, the country giving them but little trouble. 
 
 It is the same here as it was every place, though I had not men- 
 tioned it before, you tell the drivers of the conveyances to take you to 
 say, the Museum; and off he would jo and land you in front of some 
 temple; you would say some templehe would bring you to the hotel, 
 and so on it went being the same every place; it is often exasperat- 
 ing though sometimes amusing. The supreme indifference at what 
 you say was caused by not understanding and wishing you to think 
 he did. I generally purchased a map of the places I visited and keep- 
 ing close tab on the roads on the mip. and route, and places I wanted 
 to go, would generally direct him by the wave of the hand and in 
 that manner I did not lose so much time and got to go where I wish- 
 ed to go. So near the equatoi there is no twilight; in less than fif- 
 teen minutes after the sun went down it became night, it was small 
 warning to those of ivs used to long twilights. 
 
 Econony seems to be the rule with the natives in many cases as 
 I noticed many of the houses where there were only two rooms alto- 
 gether but the horse, cow, goats, chickens, and children, all stayed to- 
 gether and lived in the same house; the bed of the family being on a 
 raised platform at one end of the .room. 
 
 Coffee growing has become pretty nearly extinct on the island of 
 
70 
 
 Java on account of a blight for which there seems to be no remedy 
 not one quarter of the amount being grown now that there had been 
 in the past. 
 
 Java was classed by the many passengers with the Hawaiian Is- 
 lands and Ceylon as the spot of greatest beauty, some holding one 
 opinion, and some another, but all agree that they are three of the 
 most beautiful spots in nature, in the whole world. 
 
 We sailed from Java, about five P. M., Tuesday, March 29, after 
 some tedious delays, and headed north a^ain to Singapore through 
 the wonderful and historic Straits of Malacca. Islands on both sides 
 of us were in view all the time. The sunsets in the country were 
 beautiful every night, many missing their evening meal or part of it. 
 to witness them. Pen can never describe them, had one the command 
 of the language of a full dictionary; they must be seen to be appre- 
 ciated. We had been having the South East Monsoons for some time 
 now and it made our voyage on the vessel very pleasant, at no time 
 it being really uncomfortable while at sefei. 
 
 On Wednesday the 30th, we had another dance on the deck it be- 
 ing a very pleasant evening, and about ten o'clock, while dancing 
 the whistle blew, on inquiry we found that we were crossing the equa- 
 tor northward bound. 
 
 The waters through which we were passing were the scenes in 
 the early days, of much piracy, the Malays for several hundred years 
 holding trafic up to tribute, and many lives and an enormous value 
 of property were destroyed and stolen by these intrepid marauders. It 
 is only a short while ago, that it has been effectually put a stop to; 
 the countries interested sending fast gunboats and hunting down 
 hese pirates to the death, no mercy being shown, all being shot to 
 pieces, and now any sort of a boat is safe. 
 
 We arrived in the harbor of Singapore early on the morning of 
 the 31st, and anchored about a mile off the city. It was an interesting 
 sight to see so many vessels there of all kinds, from the lowly junk 
 to the big liners: and the flags of all nations but the United States, 
 but we were getting used to that by this time. Here it is. a nation 
 that sixty or seventy years ago our flags were seen in all ports, and on 
 all seas, and practically with one exception ruled the sea, and now 
 the flag a disgrace on the ocean by its conspicious absence. Some- 
 thing radically wrong which I hope the future will do better by us 
 in that respect, and it will have to, il we expect much from foreign 
 commerce. 
 
 The little Malays, in their tiny canoes hollowed out of one small 
 log that was not more than ten feet long and about a foot wide and 
 six to eight inches deep, were thick around the vessel all day, diving 
 for coins, water rats they certainlv were, they had little spoon shaped 
 paddles with which they could propel themselves around with great 
 i apidity, and though a coin was thrown twenty feet away from their 
 boat, and had started down in th<- water before they leaped, they dove 
 and disappeared and in a few seconds came up holding the coin up to 
 show they had gotten it. Sometimes two or three would dive at once, 
 but they never foug\ht after one of uem had gotten the coin. They 
 kept the water out of their canoes by an adept motion of the foot, 
 
71 
 
 sweeping it clear in a few seconds, they got into the canoes very clev- 
 erly. If one of us had tried getting to them we would have been o- 
 vav a dozen of times. There bronze coppery skins ail one shade, 
 with the lithe muscles shiny from the water made them took tike 
 pieces of bronze statuary. 
 
 The money of the Straits Settlements was the same as Borj 
 being a dollar which had a value of about 68 cents in our money; it 
 vv as divided up into one hundred L-ents, with the customary small 
 coinage of the various metals and denominations. 
 
 Singapore is one of the great ports of the world ranking seventh, 
 and that with only a population or about 160,000 people, mostly natives 
 and about six thousand Europeans. The Chinamen as usual are the 
 artisans and the merchants, of the smaller class. They are now build- 
 ing large docks and will soon make it the finest port in the world; a- 
 bout thirty thousand vessels clear there every year, all vessels gonr..- 
 east or wlest having to stop for some reason or other. 
 
 The Island on which Singapore is located is only about 27 miles 
 long and fifteen wide; of course it being under British control it is a 
 modern, clean, up to date, well policed city. Many plantations are 
 outside the city, some few abandoned but nearly all are being plained 
 with rubber trees; thank heaven for that it will give us a little hope 
 auto tires will become cheaper soon a conditii tedly wished 
 
 Singapore has fine botanical gardens, a nice museum and 
 
 some ma^nii'icant government buildings, aiso many fine warehouses 
 and stores, But the native shops as usual took my eye, they have 
 nearly everything from all parts of the world, there prices are son 
 what "higher than what we had been paying elsewhere for the sa 
 class of stuff. The population is very cosmopolitan, there being it 
 
 aid over forty different races represented and the difference in 
 dress of all this motley tribe made it, a very fantastic sight. 
 
 Half our party divided when we left the ship in the morning, 
 one party going to Johore. We went by a very nice little train a- 
 iss the island, and then took a steamer and crossed the small 
 strait to the mainland, on which the province of Johore is situated. 
 The Sultan has a very nice palace though not very rich looking, 
 but fine grounds, we did not see him or any of his ten wives; he 
 has only ten now but he is still young, so the chances are good for 
 an increase. Johore is under the control of the British government, 
 though they give the Sultan plenty of rein for he is modern in his 
 ideas ana is building the country up; he is al'owed his own issue of 
 stamps for postage with his own picture on. I was more interested 
 in the small towns of Johore with the shops, some of which were kept 
 by Chinamen as usual. The Chinamen ran most of the gambling places 
 oi which there were many, and we had considerable sport for a while 
 plavirg fantan or whatever they rolled it. They had three numbers 
 on a board and you placed your money on one of the numbers, they 
 then took a pile of coins put a cup over the pile, putting what was 
 outside the cup to one side and then counted the pile covered by 
 the cup off in fours, if three was Left over and you had your money 
 on three, they paid four for one, where they were sure to win was 
 when none was left over. They had pieces as low as a quarter ot 
 
72 
 
 a cent in their money equal to about one sixiii 01 a cent in ours, so 
 you could gamble a good while if you wished and not lose much. 
 There were several other gambling games but I did not get an insight 
 into all of them for lack of time. 
 
 While in Johore, waiting for the boat, and wandering around on 
 one of the back streets I saw four men come out of a house with the 
 curious shaped Chinese coffin swung on a couple of trestles and what 
 was evidently the widow and two tiny children came out of a house 
 walked around the coffin several times chanting, then the children 
 got on their knees in front with reeds in their hands and seemed to 
 be praying; while the mother, after bringing out the customary offer- 
 ing of food for the dead and setting the same on a table in the 
 street, got a thick pile of printed papers out of a pocket and pro- 
 ceeded to burn them one by one on a little fire in front of the cof- 
 fin. These were the prayers, There were no tears shed by either 
 the widow or the children as I could notice, and there were few other 
 people around, but these four men to carry the coffin, and myself a- 
 ! cross the narrow street behind a pillar where I took some pictures 
 of the little ceremony. There was something pathetic about it de- 
 spite the fact of the business like proceedure of the ceremony. When 
 all was through the carriers picked up the coffin and followed only 
 by the woman and the two children departed for the burial place. 
 
 We were twelve hours away from the western end of the United 
 States by time and about twelve thousand miles by distance a long 
 ways from home, taking four weeks by the fastest steamers and trains 
 to get home from here. Singapore has about forty different varieties 
 of snakes, several of them deadly, so we did not feel like ventur- 
 ing far in the country on foot. I saw many monkeys running wild in 
 the woods but no larger game. The rains are very heavy here coming 
 down in sheets, it is said that it rains over one hundred inches a 
 year. They stop as quick as the;. ,came which is without warning,. 
 A heavy one began about two o'clock and most of us got to the ship 
 as quickly as we could and at that got wet through. 
 
 I was sorry our stay was so short at Singapore as I would have 
 liked to have seen more of this interesting city. 
 
 u V&a&Q Q OOOe 
 
Chinese Funeral in Johore 
 
 Grant 
 
 Shrines Surrounding the Shwe Dagon Pagoda 
 
73 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 RANGOON and BURMA. 
 
 We sailed at five P. M. for a little while running through the 
 straits but soon lost sight of land and was on our way to Rangoon 
 in Burma, used to be called Farther India, one thousand miles to 
 the north, now a province of India, but under separate government, 
 using the India money and stamps. 
 
 For three days we were on the ocean, nothing eventful happen- 
 ing, and on Monday morning we first saw the muddy waters from 
 the Irrawaddy and soon the palm trees showed themselves. This was 
 the mouth of the Delta of the famous Irrawaddy river that had 
 its head one thousand miles north in the mountains of Thibet. Ran- 
 goon was located thirty miles up the riverat the present time.though 
 it was said at one time it was on the shore of the sea, and it was 
 also said that Prome one hundred and sixty miles up the Irrawad- 
 dy river, was at one time many centuries ago, a seaport town; the 
 great accumulation of thousands of years, brought down from the 
 mountains, by this river, filling up the Bay of Bengal until all this 
 great Delta of land had been made. It was a rich fertile, alluvial soil 
 on which fine crops were grown, principally rice. There are now 
 several mouths to the river, Rangoon being situated on one of the 
 branches called the Rangoon river. We proceeded slowly up the river 
 seeing little of interest until the top of the famous Shwe Dagon Pa- 
 goda with its scintillating gold spire struck our view. 
 
 As we drew nearer Rangoon the river became alive with boats of 
 all kinds, and as our screw was churning up the thick mud we soon 
 had to anchor about a mile and a half below the wharf, in the cen- 
 tre of the river. The deep draught of the vessel kept us some distance 
 away from many ports.; it being the largest, or one of the largest, 
 that had ever called at any ports on the other side, both in the mat- 
 ter of draft and length. Tenders ran back and forth to the ship all 
 day, but not after dark, on account of the time the boat was there be- 
 fore; a tender ran down a tow after night and drowned several peo- 
 ple, and the contractors would not run the boats after night this time. 
 
 The chief and most interesting tiling in Rangoon and one which 
 uiany of the pilgrims come for thousand of miles to worship, is 
 Shwo Dagon Pagoda; the massivenes- and gorgeousness of it strikes 
 
74 
 
 you, but at the same time another thought came to my mind and I call- 
 ed it the three G's, meaning gorgeous, garish, and greasy; georgeous 
 from the massive splendor of the great structure itself; garish from 
 the many little temples and shrines around the base, built up with all 
 kinds of broken crockery, glass and anything that glittered and shone, 
 without regard to harmony or taste with their arrangement; and grea- 
 sy from the excessive amount of grease and dirt found everywhere 
 around these shrines, most of the grease coming from melted candles, 
 until m some places it was inches thick. So thick and greasy was it 
 that tne shrines easily caught fire, and many of them had been burn- 
 ed: I saw one that was on fire, soon an attendant of the place I 
 suppose, came along with a bucket of v>ater, carefully set it down got 
 down on his knees and said a pretty long prayer it seemed to me, 
 winle the fire blazed on, and finally having done this got up and threw 
 the water on, quenching it. 
 
 Tne Shwe Dagon Pagoda itself is a massive stone structure ris- 
 ing up in the air nearly four hundred feet, it stands on a high mound 
 of its own, so that it makes it veryconspicious for many miles around 
 iii the surrounding level country. It is about thirteen hundred feet 
 around the base and quickly tapers up to a fine spire. The whole thing 
 from Lop to bottom is covered with gold leaf, and near the top is said 
 to be covered with heavy gold plates. It is claimed to be three or four 
 thousand years old, being much smaller at first, and has gradually 
 been added to in bygone ages until it has assumed its present massive 
 proportions. The sacredness of it to the Buddhists is on account of 
 the claims that bones, hair, and what, not of different Buddhas are 
 buried here, and thus it becomes a very sacred shrine, and a cure 
 for all evils and pains. It is estimated that about $100,000,000 has been 
 spent on the thing since the foundation, and that at the cheap labor 
 cost of that country. 
 
 All around the base of this pagoda are numerous shrines, said to 
 be about four hundred in number and I believe it; from the minature 
 affair with its little Buddha to the great gorgeous ones costing possi- 
 bly a hundred thousand dollars. The money spent on the this hill 
 would keep the whole of India from starvation for years. The splen- 
 dor of this big Golden pagoda is impressive, and it can easly be call- 
 ed one of the wonders of the world. The multitude of small pagodas, 
 have their Buddhas carved out of every sort of thing one could think 
 of, and also have their gongs with the clapper near so that the wor- 
 shipper can strike it, and let the God know that he is worshipping. 
 They have their many niches for candles from which the enormous 
 amount of grease comes. Some of the carving is very fine. There were 
 workmen reguilding the upper part of the main pagoda but they only 
 work on Sundays They went up on a rope tramway of four ropes that 
 ran to the top of the pagoda carrying a very gaudy decorated little 
 car that I would not have trusted myself in for a minute. Beggars 
 and vendors are plenty all around the base and leading to the pagoda, 
 and are somewhat of a nuisance at times though, are interesting. In 
 a joking way I asked one of the women who was so persistent to 
 sell me something and had a very pretty little child there, how much, 
 pointing to the child, and quickly came the answer two rupees and she 
 raised it up for me to take; two rupees is about 64 cents, they do 
 
74 
 
 not ask much for children, she seemed quite put out when I did not 
 buy the infant. 
 
 The wagons are called Gherries and are little boxed affairs that 
 you can hardly see out of, about like our milk wagons here, pulled 
 by a little horse that you would hardly think could pull the wagon, 
 let alone three or four people in it. They had a fine Zoo here, the 
 interesting part of it though was the big white elephant, formerly 
 Ex King Theebau's most sacred one; the attendant would sell you a wat- 
 ermelon for a few annas and permitted you to feed him, his capacity 
 was good as I saw him while standing there put away ten of them with 
 out a quiver; possibly our visit was his feast day. 
 
 The fish pond containing the sacred fish was another attraction 
 I have never seen so many fish together in one place in all my life. 
 You could drop a piece of bread or rice cake they sold you for the 
 purpose, in, and the water became alive with them and no matter how 
 many pieces were dropped at a time it was the same way. I believe if 
 the fish had all been taken out of the small pond there would not have 
 been a bucket of water left in it, They were small ugly little fish 
 from four to eight inches long looked somewhat like our bass 
 but more bull headed. 
 
 I beg leave to insert the following poem which applies to the last 
 three countries visited. 
 
 JAVA, SINGAPORE and BURMA. 
 By Mr. L. A. Sherman. 
 
 Come we now to beauteous Java, 
 
 Island queen of th.> East Indies. 
 Garden of the southern tropics; 
 
 Where the Dutchman rules the natives, 
 Rules with firmness thirty millions. 
 
 Northward then, where rules the Briton. 
 To the settlements, where pirats 
 
 Fourscore years ag i were sheltered 
 In the swamps and Island jungles. 
 
 Now behold the transformation! 
 Singapore we find a city 
 
 Built and guarded by the Briton, 
 Beautiful and most substantial, 
 
 Where vast commerce seeks a harbor. 
 
 Once more northward, where in Burma, 
 
 Briton holds the reins of empire, 
 Guards the eastern bounds of India, 
 
 To Rangoon, a tropic city, 
 Come we next, in our burning April. 
 Beautiful its parks and lakelets, 
 Marvelous its shrines and temples, 
 
 Its Shwe Dagon guilt pagoda, 
 Shrine of Buddha's ardent votives. 
 
 Rangoon has about three hundred thousand population, and is the 
 
76 
 
 main city of Burma, which has about ten million people. Burmese 
 are aptly termed the Irish of the East, are an extremely happy go 
 lucky, generous, merry, bright attired people. The hair is long and 
 black but though plentiful on the head the men have little on their 
 faces. The best time to visit the country is from November to April, 
 the rest of the year it is nearly unbearable for Europeans. Rangoon 
 is an American laid out city with wide streets running at right ang- 
 les to each other, has many fine"" shops of all sorts, and also many 
 nice business and other buildings. Has an electric street car service 
 covering the city thoroughly. The houses of most of the residents are 
 roomy and far apart so that the city covers a great deal of ground 
 The native, Chinese, and other quarters are crowded together as 
 is usual with those people. 
 
 The bazaars are the interesting parts of the city, whole blocks 
 having those big bazaars with their many little shops of all characters 
 inside. The women are the principal traders being, or seeming to be 
 much brighter than the men. The markets are not very inviting in 
 some places, especially the meat shops with the pieces of meat hang- 
 ing up and the crows lighting on and picking at them. The women 
 are much better treated in this country than other countries vis- 
 ited and have greater consideration shown them everyplace. The town 
 in some quarters is very interesting at night and well worth a visit 
 along the "Great White Way." 
 
 What to me was the most ridiculous thing of the whole visit to 
 Rangoon was the trip to see the elephants at work. Expectation was 
 high and it had been well advertised, and we went out several miles 
 to a lumber yard to see, as we thought, a whole herd of elephants 
 piling logs and moving them etc.;when we arrived at the place and 
 looked around I saw one poor lone elephant standing there with a 
 small well worn piece of timber on his tusks and about twenty five of 
 the party standing around solemnly looking at him and photograph- 
 ing him as if he was one of the wonders of the world. The ridiculous- 
 ness of the thing struck me so forcibly that I burst out laughing, 
 and some turned and asked what was the matter; I said it was so 
 funny to see you poor mortals stan cling around looking at one poor 
 moth eaten elephant holding a small piece of worn timber in its tusks, 
 that looked as if it had been lifted to be shown the same way for 
 years, and there you were looking at it as though it was a great 
 wonder, Why I said that poor little elephant should have a sign 
 painted on its side "Office hours from 7 to 9 A. M.", it seems that 
 was the only time we were allowed to come out to see it. 
 
 Elephants have been done awaywith in most of the lumber hand- 
 ling except in the forests, steam being much cheaper, but I went up 
 the river a short distance to anotherlumber yard and they really had 
 two elephants working and a funny thing happened which showed 
 the intelligence of the animal. The Mahout or driver rode on his head 
 while another native fastened the logs together and the elephant haul- 
 ed or dragged them to the mill some distance away. This one was led 
 to the river and took a drink of water and came peaceably back and 
 allowed himself to be hitched on to the logs, they were several of 
 them and quite heavy and at first he tried and could not budge them; 
 the fellow on the ground stormed around and beat him but no good; 
 
Grant 
 
 Shwe Dagon Pagoda 
 
77 
 
 finally the elephant turned his head around and I seemed to see a 
 gleam of fun in his eye as he deliberately turned his trunk towards 
 the fellow, and let go about a bucket of water over him drenching him 
 to the skin, and the elephant really laughed as we all did heartily. 
 He had gotten his trunk full and saved it for that purpose evidently. 
 His load was made lighter, 
 
 On Wednesday April 6th we left Rangoon at noon and soon went 
 down the river and out to sea on the way north west to Calcutta, 
 India. The days were passed as before with card playing meetings 
 etc. On Friday evening Mr. Alden Freeman of New Jersey, gave an e- 
 laborate birthday party to Miss Margaret Sadd of Tennessee, and 
 Miss Dorathy Stewart of Phila., it being the occasion of their 19th 
 birthdays. I had given one a short time before to Miss Biggs of Pitts- 
 burg with about the same people; this time Mr. Freeman had invited 
 the Captain and several others to make the party fifteen. He had 
 favors for every member of the party, and as each favor was pre- 
 sented a piece of doggerel was read,describing some hit or character- 
 istic of the person, which created much amusement. The grill room 
 was nicely decorated for the occasion and the chief had baked two 
 fine birthday cakes for the girls. The Captain sat at one end and 
 Mrs. Callaway at the other end of the table. A delicious repast was 
 served as the grill room steward I guess wanted to please the Cap- 
 tain and the fun was fast and furious for a couple of hours all vot- 
 ing it the event of the ship in the dinner line. The d inner was 
 followed by a dance on the deck which was gayly decorated with flags 
 and electric lights and it was greatly enjoyed by all. 
 
78 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 CALCUTTA. 
 
 On Saturday morning April 6th we very early approached the mouth 
 of the Hoogly river on the way to Diamond Harbor and though we 
 had no sight of land for some time, we knew we were near, as the wat- 
 er was muddy far out to sea from the emptying of this river into it. 
 It is also creating an enormous delta the same as the Irrawaddy 
 has done in Burma and the soil is similarly fertile, and used for many 
 miles up the river for growing rice. We took on the pilot before we 
 got sight of land, and the ocean is marked with bouys far out to sea 
 as the water is very shallow. The tide is very strong and rushes back 
 and forth like a mill race, creating dangerous bars in the river, the 
 accurate knowledge of these bars allows the pilot to exact enormous 
 fees for taking vessels up; in our case said to be twelve hundred 
 dollars. The bars are really dangerous quicksand and makes the Cap- 
 tains of deep draught vessels very nervous, for if a vessel happens to 
 touch one of them, that is the end of it, it will be gradually sucked 
 down and disappear and nothing under the sun can save them. They 
 cannot be pulled out and it is said that a boat as large as ours would 
 have the smoke stacks under in six hours. Continual soundings 
 have to be made as the bars shift so and the pilot must keep up to 
 date on them. This pilot was a dapper little Englishman who came 
 aboard with six pieces of baggage his wife and two native servants 
 jnst for the short stay we were there. The government gets the mon- 
 ey for the job but the pilots are said to be paid ten thousand a year 
 and retire in a short time. 
 
 Calcutta is about ninety miles from the ocean and Diamond Har- 
 bor where we were going to anchor is only thirty miles from there 
 The harbor is nothing but a lake in the river at that point. It is 
 said that our vessel could have gone up to Calcutta on the tide but 
 it was dangerous and the Captain would not risk it. At Calcutta the 
 tide at flood runs at the rate of about ten miles an hour so you can 
 see the force of it. We took smaller river steamers here and made 
 the voyage up to Calcutta, mostly against the tide, not reaching there 
 until nearly six o'clock in the evening but the trip was interesting 
 from the great variety of commerce that is continually passing and 
 the changing scenery along the banks; and on nearing Calcutta, the 
 many factories to be seen, and a great number of brick works. The 
 city has more than a million population and covers a considerable a- 
 
79 
 
 mount of ground, being loosely built, except in the native quarters 
 where they are crowded together as usual, it was very warm in the 
 sun iii Calcutta, though the humidity was not high, and even in the 
 houses in the middle of the day a few of the days the thermometer 
 registered 10(3, and as high as 126 in the sun. We wore our heavy 
 sun helmets made of pith, about tnree quarters of an inch thick and 
 strange as it seems they were light fooling and very cool. 
 
 On the way up the river huge stacks of straw were noticed mov- 
 ing along the river, and lying in shore, that looked at first as if 
 l hey were floating on the water, but on close observation they were 
 found to be on low barges. At Calcutta the party was broken up, and 
 some going across India by train, some to Benares, and some to Dar- 
 jeeling; those going across India we did not see again for fifteen 
 days. At Darjeeling is the place where the tourists go to see the 
 sua rise on famous Mt. Everest, said to be the highest mountain in 
 the world. Those who went said the trip was a hard one but the 
 scenery was very fine. They were high up in the mountains and it 
 was cold enough for overcoats. Those who took the trip to Benares 
 were also greatly interested that being the holy city of India; to 
 bathe in the sacred Ganges there, will absolve you from all aches and 
 pains, and the monkey temples, the burning ghats and many things are 
 reported very interesting. Those who made the seven days trip a- 
 cross India also enjoyed it very much, visiting besides Agra and 
 Benares, the cities of Delhi, Cawnpore, and Lucklow, all made famous 
 by the Sepoy rebellion of 1857. 
 
 I did not care to miss Ceylon, the place that has always interest- 
 ed me from my boyhood days; so made the trip around with the ship 
 to Bombay, stopping at Ceylon for three days. 
 
 Calcutta is a place of great interest, and I put in four hard work- 
 ing days, going all the time, seeing things, regardless of the great heat 
 of the sun, but it was worth it all. I was bothered greatly with my 
 feet and ankles in this place, they swelling so, and I found about half 
 the people on the ship had the same trouble. I was somewhat alarmed 
 but one of the tourists, who was a doctor, said that would leave me 
 when I got to a colder climate; and it did. There were so many of us 
 at Calcutta that we had to divide up around the hotels, I drew a 
 poor one in one respect but enjoyed it for the novelty of it. The 
 dining room was all one with the bar, billiard room, and office, there 
 were electric fans all around; the house having heavy stone walls 
 and cement ceilings it was pretty cool inside. I had a good sized roon 
 on the ground floor with a very large electric fan in the centre 
 
 thank goodness), and I moved my cot directly under it as did also 
 my room mate Mr. Bently, but he did not like the draft and got up 
 and shut it off, and then the mosquitoes began, and I soon turned it 
 on and kept it on as I found as long as the fan was going I was 
 free from mosquitoes, and I slept comfortably on the hard beds the 
 four nights I was there. But that was a minor matter, it was com- 
 mon to see pretty little lizards, about three inches long, running over 
 the walls and ceilings; off the room was the bath room, being a room 
 about 5 X 7 all cement with a drainin one corner, and it contained a 
 large galvanized wash tub full of water, and a two quart cup, and 
 you took your bath by standing up and pouring water over yourself 
 
80 
 
 with the cup, I soon got to like it as it was both cooling and cleans- 
 ing. There were no doors on the rooms, and you soon became used 
 io the many barefooted Hindoos slipping noislessly in and out of your 
 room at all times. There seemed to be about two servants to every 
 guest, there were five or six to wait on you at every table, and yet 
 you had a hard time to get anything at times. I soon learned they ex- 
 pected to be bossed around, and the universal name for them is 
 "Boy"; I soon had them on the jump and had everything I wanted, 
 generally had to get about four to get it though. 
 
 In my bath room I forgot to mention I had a very fine pair of 
 trained birds belonging to the cockroach family, and they were about 
 two and a half inches long, and they certainly could fight and ma- 
 noeuvre, it interested me greatly At our hotel, we were not bothered 
 with the crows flying into your room like some of the others were, 
 they would light on your bed post and look at you in such a wise man- 
 ner, and then if they saw anything glittering on the bureau pick it 
 up and fly off with it, possibly they were trained to do so, for purpose 
 of robberry. 
 
 I must say the meals we had at our hotel were very good indeed, 
 and you could have all you wished, and the people who ran it were 
 extremely obliging and accommodating, so taking it all through, ' I 
 rather enjoyed the novelty of the place. 
 
 The natives there wear hardly any clothes at all, and seem to be 
 about the most miserable things on earth, and I guess they are; 
 They are thin and emaciated, never seem to smile. The head waiter 
 in the diningroom got five dollars a month, and the clerk told me had 
 four wives, and that three of them were the women working across 
 the street carrying brick and mortar up into a new building being 
 erected, at which job they made about ten cents a day each. 
 
 One evening I noticed quite a glow in one part of the city and con- 
 cluded there was a fire and started for it with a couple of others. 
 
 We soon arrived and found quite a conflagration going on, sev- 
 eral stores and a small lumber yard being on fire. A couple of 
 very small engines were there working, I could have easily turned 
 them over on their side; there was a park adjoining and it was black 
 with natives, I judged about ten thousand of them, the streets were 
 crowded with them also but we had no trouble going through the 
 crowd, pushing them to one side quickly if they did not open up a 
 wide path for you, which they generally did; even the police stepped 
 out of our way, while they beat and knocked the natives down with 
 long sticks when they did not get back. At this time there was a 
 scandal going on in the fire department of Calcutta, the outcome of 
 which I later learned was the discharge of the Chief. On an alarm 
 of fire, the head men would hurry to the place, and refuse to try 
 and put the fire out until tribute had been paid or promised, and the 
 poor man in most cases had to come down with the stuff before any 
 water would be thrown, as he was generally helpless about that time 
 and would be willing to do anything to save his property. I learn- 
 ed of the conviction of the Fire Chief after I had landed in Europe. 
 
 You ran across graft every place in some form or other, but 
 this was the worst I ever heard of to catch a person as helpless as 
 
81 
 
 this when he was sure to have to put up especially if he had no in- 
 surance, and he generally had none. The British authorities soon put a 
 stop to it when they heard of it. 
 
 The word "ghat"; a very familiar one in India, means in general 
 a place along the water, so that they call a landing place, a bath- 
 ing place, or a place where the dead were burned, ghats. The bath- 
 ing ghats were interesting from the fact that nearly all day long there 
 were a great number of Hindoos bathing, men, women, and children 
 together. They rarely took their cotton garments and when they went 
 into the water, but loosened them and rubbed their bodies, and let 
 the garments dry on them. The ghat was a series of steps that ran 
 down under the water some distance, so that the bather could get 
 any depth wanted. There was a sort of a covered structure at the 
 head of the ghat used for shelter, or to change clothes. The reason 
 there was so much bathing, no good Hindoo dare go to prayers un- 
 less he bathes himself first, a very wise rule on the part of the one 
 who originated the religion. 
 
 The burning ghats were the strange things to our eyes, but a 
 little went a long ways with me. You go from the street into a build- 
 ing only one story high and pass through, emerging into a sort of a 
 walled open court, part of it open toward the river. This inner court 
 had a rough dirt floor, filled mostly with ashes, with depressions in 
 the ground at many places. One place a fire had been started, there 
 were first a few sticks of wood laid, and then the body, then a few 
 more sticks of wood in this case, money being short to buy enough 
 wood, the body was doubled up, the knees and head just reaching 
 to the edge of the woodpile. In another place the fire had burned 
 pretty low and parts of the body were unconsumed, these with the 
 ashes were taken up and thrown into the river. The amount of mon- 
 ey you paid , determined the amount of the wood used; in some 
 cases where only a few sticks could be bought, the body would be 
 only half consumed and would be thrown into the river as it was, 
 and in cases of many children where the mothers had no money the 
 body would be disposed of unconsumed. This was not considered 
 very good and the natives tried to avoid it if at all possible. One 
 of our party happened along with a guide, at one of these ghats, and 
 found a native woman holding the little body of her baby in her arms 
 she was crying very bitterly; on inquiry through the guide, they 
 found that she had no money to pay for burning the body, and found 
 it would only take a few annas for wood; so all contributed and gave 
 the money to her, it made the woman very nappy and the cremation 
 proceeded. To die within sight of the Holy Ganges is the great de- 
 sire of every Hindoo and the gruesome sight was very often seen, of 
 persons being brought to the ghat who were not dead, but nearly so; 
 and with a smile on their faces, in sight of the other burning bodies, 
 would happily pass away. This method of disposing of the bodies 
 is not to be condemed at all especially in this cholera ridden coun- 
 try, but the gruesome surroundings and heartless way they do it is not 
 very pleasant to the sight; especially .to have some of these beggai 
 loungers come up to you and wish to sell you some of the burned 
 bones, often with unconsumed skin and flesh on them. Some 
 places the customs differ from others, in some mild degree, one the 
 
82 
 
 oldest son breaks the skull, legs, and arms, of the corpse before 
 burning to let the evil spirits out. 
 
 The Zoological Gardens, are located in a beautiful park and are 
 very fine, their specimens of all the species of bird and mammal be- 
 ing of the best. The tigers were an exceptional fine lot and one was 
 a man eater of the worst stripe. I wished to get a picture of him, 
 so got inside the rail with my camera, focused between the bars on 
 a certain spot, and let out a yell when he came lunging at full speed 
 for me, and a second after I had snapped the camera and stepped 
 back a couple of feet, he struck the bars with full force reaching 
 out through after me. He certainly was a ferocious beast but a 
 fine specimen of the tiger family. 
 
 They had also an excellent museum here of about the same type 
 as that one at batavia only it contained many more exhibits of ev- 
 erything, was sorry time was limited for seeing it thoroughly. 
 
 The Botanical Gardens about six miles from town were very nice 
 the principal points of interest; being the beautiful drives through 
 the long lanes of palm and other trees, and the wonderful Banyan 
 tree, the largest in the world, covering a circular space of ground 
 over six hundred feet in diameter. There were also houses that con- 
 tained many beautiful orchids in great quantity and variety. In go- 
 ing to the Botanical Gardens we had to cross the Howrah bridge, 
 the main bridge across the Ganges river; it is constructed of anchor- 
 ed pontoons and rises and falls a distance of about fifteen feet with 
 the tide. A continual travel passes back and forth over it. 
 
 The famous Black Hole of Calcutta, was where 147 officers were 
 confined for one night in a basement room fourteen feet square. 
 with but one small window. The half of them died. It is now only 
 a memory marked with a slab of stone covering the spot containing 
 an inscription making a mention, and giving details of the occurrence. 
 d ; he Maiden, an open park in front of the principal street, with a cir- 
 cumference of several miles; is filled with statues and fine trees, and 
 must be a very beautiful place during the rainy season. The palace 
 and grounds of the Governor General were very attractive. The Ka- 
 li Temple with the Ghat adjoining within the walled city, is interest- 
 ing, but not attractive; here pilgrims come for thousands of miles to 
 worship, bathing and anointing themselves first. It is also said to 
 contain some relics of Buddha. The day we were there was a holi- 
 day and it was certainly a weird sight Priests, who take great pains 
 for a pittance of course, to show you around; fakirs, beggars, relig- 
 ious dancers, etc. An endless stream of people went back and forth. 
 In front of the Temple, goats were being sacrificed by the score, I was 
 told one hundred and fifty that day;and the bodies were carried to the 
 image and the blood allowed to drip down over it. The bleating of 
 the goats, the cries of the people, daubed with paint, and the half na- 
 ked bodies and strange costumes, and the hideous image covered 
 with blood; combined to complete a spectacle that made it hard for 
 me to realize that it was not a horrid dream. Bright colors were to 
 be seen, and boys wearing ugly masks, made the whole effect wonder- 
 fully strange. It certainly was depressing for it made you realize 
 more than anywhere else the hopelessness of the Hindoo and his life 
 in this form of idolatrous worship. 
 
83 
 
 One of the strangest sights, wa Iking around the city in the late 
 evening, especially in the European quarters, you would find curled 
 up on the pavement, doorstep or any place that did not interfere to 
 much with the pedestrain, half clad natives sound asleep on the hard 
 stones. In some places that was partly sheltered you had to step a- 
 round or over to keep from tramping on them. Women come along 
 the street and scrape up the fresh cow dung with their hands, car- 
 rying it away and paste it up against the side of their houses, to be 
 dried and used for fuel; and you noticed their shacks everywhere, 
 covered with these paddies giving them an odd appearance. Women 
 seemed to be the workers everywhere, carrying heavy loads neatly 
 balanced on their heads, seemingly with the greatest ease. Beggars 
 are seen in great numbers and all kinds. Religious fakirs who cut 
 off their eyelids and blind themselves by looking at the sun, staring 
 at you from a seat on the sidewalk with those awful sightless 
 eyes. Others recline on a bed of spikes, or hold out an arm until 
 it grows stiff and fixed in one position, or torture or maim them- 
 selves in many ways. 
 
 The markets have their unattractive offerings, and everywhere 
 are the sweetmeat sellers, for the Indians are the greatest lovers of 
 sweetmeats in the world; not even barring the Esquimo with his fond- 
 ness for gumdrops; and the rancid oder cf the sweets in process of 
 manufacture is never absent in the native quarters. The proprie- 
 tor, practically naked, sits on the platform stirring his delectable (to 
 the native) confections, and the flies swarm on that which is offer- 
 ed for sale. A man or woman stops at a hydrant, fills his or her brass 
 jar with water goes to the house and performs their ablutions, and 
 change their scant costume in full sight of all who wish to see. 
 
 A person living there is compelled to keep a dozen servants, 
 where one in this country would do, as not one would do ethers work 
 and caste prevents them from taking any other position than that 
 to which they were born, or doing any other kind of work. That 
 small array of servants will cost no more for the wages than one 
 good one here, and very little more for food, many feeding themselves 
 and the others a little rice is sufficient. 
 
 We attended an Indian show especially gotten op for our tour- 
 ists, and a funny one it was; about the only redeeming feature be- 
 ing the dancing of the Nautch gir iS with their beautiful graceful 
 
 ies, naked feet and ankles, covered with bells and bracelets, and 
 lithe sinuous dancing, very pleasing to the eye. They gave us some 
 theatricals that were very crude, and some singing that was pretty 
 good; and then for a change gave us some moving pictures, one of 
 which was the Niagara Falls, that made us all laugh heartily. 
 
 The large market house or Bazaar here that has been lately built 
 
 and is under supervision of the British authorities, is a fine large 
 
 building covering several blocks; it contains all sorts of shops each 
 
 in its on distinct locality, and was an interesting sight. It is mostly 
 
 patronized by the Europeans and the high caste Hindoos. 
 
 I should have mentioned before, the money of India. It is the same 
 as Burma; namely, the Rupee being the unit of value, and at pres- 
 ent is worth about 32 cents and a fraction, varying with the price of 
 silver. It is divided up into sixteenannas, which makes an anna about 
 
84 
 
 I wo cents each; the anna is divided up into twelve pies, as they are 
 "•ailed, but the general coin is the pice, which is three pies or one 
 quarter of an anna. I gathered a complete sets of the smaller coin- 
 age of every country I went to. The various coins of India are the 
 one twelfth anna or one pie, that is seldom used and very scarce 
 though I managed to get a few; the next is the half pice, the half 
 anna, the one anna, two annas, four annas or quarter rupee, and 
 half rupee, and the rupee piece, and then the paper money of all 
 denominations of higher value. Up to two annas, they were bronze, 
 the higher values, silver metal. 
 
 Everyplace some one springs up who wishes to do you some small 
 favor for a pittance, and you would feel inclined to let them help you 
 as they are satisfied with n small amount, but they soon became an 
 intolerable nuisance. Lots wanted to follow you as guides, of if they 
 saw you going into a store would follow you in and try to tell the 
 proprietor they brought you there so !h-?y would get a commission, 
 and you would have to pay much more for the goods than otherwise 
 on that account. 
 
 The Jain Temple is well worth a visit: it is a beautiful garden in 
 which are lots of statuary, running water, fountains, houses and tem- 
 ples of marble, and also of cement with the broken pieces of blue 
 i • rockery making mosaics all over, giving everything a blue appear- 
 ance. The shrine inside one of the temples is covered with gold and 
 many jewels. The temple was built by a rich native of Calcutta about 
 thirty years ago. The Jains are a sect of people numbering about 
 two million, and represent the survival of Buddhism in India. Their 
 religion forbids them to kill any living thing, and some even wear a 
 cloth over the mouth to preent them from killing insects by breathin 
 them in, and they will not even eat fresh fruits and vegatables, be- 
 cause of the germs of life that reside on them. 
 
 I had the pleasure of visiting a couple of Marajah palaces that 
 were not ordinarily opened to visitors; a couple of us drove up in a 
 carriage and alighting walked right up to the door; my white hair 
 and large size I guess somewhat disconcerted the guards, as I would 
 hand them my card and bow and walk in, and they would look a min- 
 ute and finally volunteer to walk around with me, taking me for some 
 Baboo or big man, as nearly all wh ile haired people are held in great 
 respect by the natives in India. The palaces were beautifully furnish- 
 ed and decorated, showing the great wealth of these native rulers. 
 
 That reminds me of an experience I had one evening in Bombay, 
 which I will relate here before I forget it. Two of us got a rather 
 bright young native to drive us around, and he seemed to take a 
 fancy to me and wanted to show me everything, so we drove through 
 all the quarters of the city, and many places or streets he would 
 drive into there would be natives silting or lying around the door- 
 ways; he would shout something in his native language; they would 
 take one look at us and all would disappear in a jiffy, and then he 
 would set up a howl of laughter. I asked him what he said, and he told 
 me that he called out the Babe was coming; one look at me and all 
 would decamp in a hurry, and I learned many of them were crim- 
 inals and were drearfully afraid of the Baboo; and as he looked some- 
 thing like me it made lots of fun for the driver and us also. Some 
 
/tc 
 
 85 
 
 places whore we drove, the natives were sleeping all across the street 
 the carriage being barely able to thread its way around between with 
 out running over their feet or heads. "-v. 
 
 The other place I visited was located in one of the native quar- 
 ters of Calcutta and occupied qui to a plot of ground surrounded by 
 a high stone wall. It was built in Grecian style and was owned by the 
 late Rajah Rajendro Mullick Bahad oor. The front yard contained a 
 fine fountain and on the lawn at first what I took to be bronze sta- 
 tues were about two hundred of the glossy bay and scarlet ibis, the 
 sacred bird. They stood there in all positions so motionless that they 
 really seemed like statues, and you were only undeceived when 
 you saw one put its leg down or another draw it up, they were an 
 interesting sight of themselves. Very few people who live in Calcutta 
 know of the place and hardly any tourists get to visit it, and it was 
 only by chance I ran across it having been told about the place by 
 another of the party, but you could find nobody who knew the location 
 The ^.side of the building was a magnificient paved tile courtyard 
 in beautiful patterns made of semi precious stones. The court was 
 covered over on top with a fine wire netting, and in this yard was 
 the finest collection of rare birds 1 have ever seen. The white pea- 
 cock, quite a number of the talking mina birds, lyre birds, birds of 
 paradise and many of the rarest of the feathered -family in great pro- 
 fusion and the finest of specimens. 
 
 We had a little trouble at the door but one of the party with me 
 pointed to me an said Baboo (the magic word in India it seemed) and 
 1 handed my card with a bow and we were ushered in and shown a- 
 round. The palace was as elaborate ly decorated in modern style as 
 any in Europe, many magnificient rooms, the walls covered with the 
 finest of tapestries, crystal every where and when the lights were 
 turned on seemed like fairy land itslf. The ante rooms, halls, and stair 
 ways, were filled with paintings of great value and fine statuary in 
 great profusion and I was certain ly very glad to have seen it. The 
 Rajah and descendants since are a family of artists and he was in 
 great favor with Queen Victoria. 
 
 There is one tree called in Eng lish the rain tree which the native 
 considers sacred, it is a fine fern like leaf and the natives think they 
 are blessed if they can lie or sleep under this tree. If you get one 
 under a tree he will never tell you a lie while there. Custom, is one 
 of the greatest evils, though at times blessings of the country de- 
 pending on which foot the shoe is on I guess, as they will never break 
 a custom. For instance, it has been the custom for the servants pur- 
 chasing to get a rake off, and they will never break it no matter what 
 you do, so it is best to abide by it. 
 
86 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 CUSTOM and CASTE in INDIA. 
 
 Caste is the curse of the country, and yet in disguise a blessing 
 to England as it will always prevent the native from getting his free- 
 dom, as they can never work in unity in anything and for that rea- 
 son England is safe forever from a general insurerection all over the 
 country. They may break out in spots but can never go far. There 
 are 47 distinct nationalities and about 27,000 different ^castes I under- 
 stand. The four principal castes an? the Brahmin, or priest, the 
 warrior, the tradesman and the la boring classes and these are sub- 
 divided as above and some are so low that they have no known caste 
 at all; but even these have some sort of a caste or distinction of 
 their own, so that it would take years of hard work to get all the 
 ramifying details of this wonderful but dreadful system that is the bane 
 of the Indian. No matter how much you read you can never under- 
 stand how far reaching it is and how exorable are its laws, and even 
 then I doubt if you can fully realize what it means. Here is a coun- 
 try where every child is born to a certain station in life, and he 
 can no more change it than he cou Id stop the moon from rising. If 
 his father is a tradesman he is a tradesman, and if his father is an 
 outcast he has no hope of becoming anything else; of course he may 
 be a better business man than his father and consequently the dis- 
 tinction of caste do not measure a man's worldly prosperity; the poor 
 man who accepts service with you may belong to the highest caste 
 and would be polluted by the touch of the prosperous tradesman whose 
 worldly estate is so much superior to his own. So strong are the rules 
 of caste that no man may eat food prepared by a man of lower caste, 
 nor may he touch him without defilement, nor may he do any work 
 which does not belong to his caste. This is all general knowledge 
 from talking with the people and I do not profess to understand the 
 system and its intri'cacies; it is fuli of contradictions and inconsisten- 
 cies and even the Europeans who have lived there for many years pro- 
 fess ignorance on many points. 
 
 In India, in some places outside of the big cities there are rules so 
 rigidly observed that certain streets are set apart for the high caste 
 people and none other may use them. Some places modern civiliza- 
 tion has broken them somewhat, as iu the railroad cars the Brahmins 
 
87 
 
 may rub shoulders with the outcast, although in a house he would not 
 breathe the air of the same room and would be contaminated by the 
 merest touch on the street or else where; the reason for this differ- 
 ence is that they either have to slay at home or accept modern con- 
 ditions and modify their rules to a certain extent. The Englishman 
 is unclean, according to the Hindoo but dining with him does not in- 
 volve loss of caste in most parts of India. 
 
 The Hindoo must not use the water drawn from a source that 
 has been touched by outcasts, but the. city water in Calcutta and the 
 larger cities is freely used; as a special dispensation having been se- 
 cured through the necessities of the case. Though in many ways 
 it has been broken down, in this manner it will continue to be con- 
 l rolling force to the peoples lives for centuries to come. 
 
 What would society be all over the world if it became so strati- 
 fied in that manner that no matter what it was no man could better 
 his condition and the only thing allowed would be for the worst, is 
 it any wonder India is the pitiful country that it is said, and no whole 
 group of nations could better it much, for centuries to come 
 with its horrid customs and caste The little you learn about the politics 
 of India the less likely you are to think that there can ever be any 
 great danger of an outbreak against Kriugh rule. The Hill tribes 
 are friendly and though you hear of lots of unrest in Calcutta and 
 some other cities the Hindoos would be really fighting against each oth- 
 er as the Hill tribes would war against the lower land people for 
 England. And again you can hardly believe that after half a century 
 of submission these abject* servile , dispirited people, robbed of 
 ambition and held in separate strata by caste, divided into dozens of 
 different nationalities and languages, and again divided into antagon- 
 istic religions, will seriously threaten Engiands power. It would look 
 to me as if the worst thing that could happen them would be to throw 
 off the yoke of Britian, splittingthe country up into many nations, 
 and placing the people in the hands of rulers who know no restraint 
 or mercy. 
 
 On top of caste and custom comes that dreadful child marriage 
 system or custom that is such a horrible nightmare to the foreigner 
 who visits that country and sees and learns about the conditions that 
 prevail, much of which is too horrible to relate in print, of the doings 
 '>f these people along that line; but I will tell part of what I found 
 out and you can guess the rest that is not permissible. The institution 
 is strictly Hindoo and the cruelty and atrocity of it is hard to under- 
 stand and believe. A more horrible practice never enslaved the people 
 and it and the caste system are curses which stand in the way of 
 ;) regress and will never permit the Hindoo to attain a fair degree of 
 advancement and well being. It is no wonder that the people are 
 melancholy and hopeless looking and that laughter is never heard 
 and that one gains an impression that they arc the most miserable of 
 the worlds inhabitants. The Chinese are a similar race in numbers 
 the way of living etc., but they know nothing of the caste system, 
 or the child marriage, or bad customs, and they can rise out of their 
 level at any time and can make themselves a world power at short no- 
 tice because there is nothing to prevent; and all they need are the 
 leaders for ready action; but here it is all different, hundreds of lead- 
 
88 
 
 ers woud do them no good, they are too deep in the mire and therefore 
 can never be a menace to the world like the Chinese could, though 
 here they have the same large mass of people. 
 
 The boys may be burdened with the responsibilities of family life 
 and parenthood when they are fourteen or fifteen years of age and 
 frequently the little girls are married when they are only six years 
 old., for it is considered a most terrible disgrace both for them and 
 for their parents if they are not married before they are twelve. 
 These things, of course, we know, but we did not realize until we 
 visited Calcutta how horrible the results are or how awful the facts 
 in connection with the custom. The little girls of six years, or a little 
 older, are married to men of all ages and while the claim is made 
 that they remain in the homes of their parents for several years af- 
 terwards, this is not true in many instances; the little girl frequently 
 takes up her abode with her husband as soon as the marriage is 
 performed and the story of suffering and cruelty which this practice 
 entails cannot even be hinted at. There are some Americans and En- 
 glish people as well as some of the better class natives realizing the 
 great wrong are trying to right it and making a little progress but 
 it is like digging in the Panama Canal with a spade. They deserve 
 credit for undertaking such a herculean task, and showing so much 
 courage in attempting, but they seem to think they are making pro- 
 gress and in several generations to come, as the old adge says "great 
 oaks from little acorns grow," but plant the acorn, it will take about 
 the same time as the adage has it, if at all. I saw several instances 
 which I was inclined to doubt, but one big fellow of at least forty 
 years of age had only this little girl of about six or seven in the 
 house with him, and a guide told me that was his wife and I saw she 
 had the red streak at the parting of the hair, not on the forehead which 
 won Id be a sign of religious caste, that it is necessary for a married 
 woman to have. 
 
 They claim as I said before that when married at six or seven, the 
 girl remains with her parents for several years, but here was proof 
 to the contrary and I believe the Indians simply lies about it in the 
 most cases the same as the mormons, and that the Indian secures 
 posession immediately, Oftimes thehusbands are kind to the child 
 wife but again the cruelties to which the victims of the awful cus- 
 tom are subjected are worse than the imagination of a sane and 
 sensible civilized man could invent. I saw a little wife in an imme- 
 diate neighborhood who undoubtedly was living with her husband, 
 who had the look of a woman who had known sorrow and suffering 
 for years, although she was not more than nine or ten years old. I 
 saw other child wives as I passed through the streets and one who 
 knows the meaning of the red mark in the hair has no difficulty in 
 recognizing them. 
 
 They have a native league formed called the Hindoo Marriage 
 Reform League, which is an organization formed by the natives of the 
 higher classes, for the sole purpose to try and put a stop to this ne- 
 farious practice. The Object of the League was to prevent marriag- 
 es of girls until they are at least sixteen, and of boys until they are 
 twenty and they seem to be greatly encouraged with the progress 
 they are making although they realize the great strength of the ques- 
 
The Hindu Curse— Child Marriage— Man 38, Child Wife 9 
 
 •ajESH ■ 
 
 A Sleeping Hindoo 
 
89 
 
 Lion. I found on inquiry that contrary to general belief there is noth- 
 ing in the Hindoo religion that required early marriage and indeed it 
 was prohibited, but that the custom had prevailed so long and had be- 
 oome so mixed with religious rights that it had almost the strength of 
 a religious requirment. 
 
 The origin of the custom is un certain but the progressive Hindoos 
 declare that it began in ancient ti mes when the country was conquer- 
 ed by the Mohammedans; the conquerors seized the girls for tneir 
 harems, but respected the married women, and in order to protect 
 their daughters the parents married tnem when very young, and out 
 of this has grown the institution which is really more horrible than 
 slavery. Whatever this may be, it is certain that the conquerors have 
 also adopted the custom and child marriages among the Mohammedans 
 arc common; one told me one day he being a Mohammedan, that his 
 wife was six years old when he married her, but that she lived with 
 her parents for three years after. In all parts of India child marri- 
 age is very common and in some districts it is almost universal. In 
 one large district the people can marry only once in twelve years and 
 as no marriage can take place except on one auspicious day in the 
 long cycle of years of twelve years; and as the parents lose caste who 
 have an unmarried daughter under twelve, no stone is left unturned 
 lo marry the girls even though thej are but a few days old. If the hus- 
 band is not available the girl is married to a bunch of flowers and 
 when they wither she becomes a widow and remains free to marry 
 by a peculiar ceremony. There is a law against the real comsumma- 
 tion of the marriage until the girl has reached the age of twelve, but 
 this law is ignored and as openly violated as is prohibition in this 
 country. But even if the law were enforced, and even if the claims of 
 I he Hindoos who have been influenced by Western civilization to be 
 ashamed of the practice that the girl does not become the property 
 of her husband until she reaches the age of puberty are true, the ef- 
 fect upon the moral and mental and physical condition would still be 
 terrible. Just think what it means to the physical and mental devel- 
 opement of a race when the girls of twelve and the boys of fourteen 
 become parents, and when to this is added the practices which are foll- 
 owed very commonly with the girls even less than nine years of age, 
 one does not wonder that the Indian is a miserable creature, physic- 
 ally, mentally, and morally, that he is weak and servile and altogeth- 
 er Lhe most pitiable creature on earth. 
 
 — aoooBB> ■ 
 
90 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 CEYLON. 
 
 On Tuesday April the 12th we bade farewell to Calcutta and alter 
 a pleasant ride down the river was very glad to see our good steamer 
 appear in view, happy to get back to the good meals that was appre- 
 ciated so much the more, after a few days away from the ship. The 
 Cleveland was gaily decorated with bunting and "welcome home" signs, 
 and the band was out to serenade us as we came aboard, everything ' 
 had been painted anew and cleaned up while we were absent; but it 
 was a tired crowd and all went to bed early, ready for our departure 
 lor Ceylon in the morning.Nothing of incident occurred on our voyage 
 to that beautiful isle. We just escaped a typhoon which made the sea 
 a little heavy for a day or so and early on Sunday morning we again 
 hove in sight of land and stayed in sight of this island, which was Cey- 
 lon, all day and until we reached our anchorage in the harbor at 
 Colombo about four p. m. Ceylon is a pear shaped island hanging on 
 the end of India and we had to go round the island coming from Cal- 
 cutta and go up the west side a short distance to reach Colombo. 
 Much interest was occasioned rounding this island of which we had 
 heard so much and so wished to see, and all gazed at it eagerly. 
 Its low lying shores gradually defined themselves and the green vege- 
 tation with which they were covered gave promise of the tropical 
 beauties of what we had read. 
 
 The harbor offers little protection for the ships, were it not for 
 the magnificent breakwater that has lately been constructed for their 
 protection, and they now ride at anchor safely inside its protecting 
 walls during the most severe storms Colombo is a city of about 200,- 
 000 inhabitants and is quite a port commercially, as most all the ship- 
 ping that goes east or west stops here, like at Singapore, it boing on 
 the most direct route. Many of the tourists secured quarters at the 
 Gallc Face hotel, a very fine one with a good location facing the sea, 
 they thinking it would be cooler there than on the ship at anchor! 
 ine rates were very steep and many extras such as for electric 
 tans in the rooms, baths, ice tea, a high price for the latterjust think 
 paying a high price for tea in Ceyion (25 cents for a small' pot ), 
 The name of the hotel was peculiar but was named for the fact of the 
 hotel facing the road that ran to Galle an eld Portuguese town a few 
 miles from Colombo; it is pronounced like the word Gaul in one syl- 
 
91 
 
 lable. Another version I heard is that the word for beach in their 
 language is Galle and because the hotel faced this beach was called 
 GalleFace. It was a very beautiful structure well laid out with a beau- 
 tiful park all around it with pretty drives and tall palms, the latter fil- 
 led in their tops with colored electric lights, at night giving it a very 
 pretty effect, especially when the palms waved too and fro with the 
 monsoon winds. 
 
 The whole spot was a beautiful one and especially on moonlight 
 nights with the waves beating against the breakwater, and on the 
 beach, cresting themselves to a great height. Rickshas and carriages 
 were the principal modes of conveyance here, with bullock carts for 
 the heavy work, and the roads being hard, smooth and level made it 
 very nice riding in them. The regular natives are called Singalese 
 and are a better class than those of Calcutta. They are Buddhists 
 and either their religion or the happier condition of life makes them 
 more cheerful and able to experience the sensation of joy and pleas- 
 ure. The dress of the men is a skirt wrapped around the waist, 
 and falls close to the ground, and a jacket. The women's dress is 
 somewhat similar, but instead of a jacket they wear something resem- 
 bling a corset cover that does not reach to the waist but leaves a 
 patch of brown skin that looks like a bell. The little girls all wear 
 something, but the boys are mostly naked, sometimes with a string 
 and if they want to dress up have a little metal ornament hanging 
 on the string in front. The men wear their hair long and twist it 
 into a little knot at the back of the head, and on top of the head 
 is a tortoise shell circular comb worn like a crown only round about. 
 Some of these combs are very expensive, the standing and caste of 
 the native depending on it, and maiy a poor man earning only a small 
 pittance per day will have a very valuable comb on his head. 
 
 The native costume looks very picturesque and appropriate and it 
 is to be regretted from the asthetic sense and probably from a hygenic 
 se also, that, the European influences are effecting it. The men 
 in European dress do not look so had but the woman lose their 
 trm in wearing European costumes and gain nothing by doing it. 
 ything here is just a little different from things seen elsewhere 
 while there have been points of resemblance ever since Java, 
 there are modifications in dress and people and in the boats and 
 vehicles and in many other things The boats are the strangest thing 
 of any, they are hewn from a solid log, a long narrow box is fastened 
 on the top, an outrigger i.s lashed to it, and they have a bamboo pole 
 for a mast and the sails are generally square and made of bamboo al- 
 though sometimes canvas is used, The boat at the top is only about 
 eight inches wide, too narrow for anybody to get in, the native riding 
 astride or side saddle as it were. The outrigger is a log lashed with 
 bamboo strips and lies in the water paralell to the boat about eight 
 to ten fed away, fastened to it by strong bamboo sticks that keep 
 it in one position. It gives the boat steadiness and keeps it from up- 
 setting and when rounding turns in a wind, natives even climb out 
 on the outrigger to keep it turning over;' the boats are used mostly 
 for fishing, the fish being thrown in the hollow log where they are 
 safe from being lost. 
 
 The wheeled carts are another great curiosity looking on a small 
 
92 
 
 scale like the old wagons that crossed the plains, but their covers are 
 made of bamboo and often the wheels are solid pieces of wood, 
 hewn round, they are drawn by bullocks of the humped variety and 
 make a curious picture. The many varities of people here in their 
 bright costumes with the prevailing color white, and the many queer 
 vehicles, all make the streets very interesting. There are onlya few Chi- 
 namen, the first time for a long while where we had seen so few, 
 they seem to have left Ceylon alone for some reason we do not know 
 unless these people are as bright as they are and are able to cope 
 with them in business. 
 
 In the main the native shops are not very interesting, or did not 
 seem so as we had seen so many of them I guess, but there are some 
 shops near the dock that the natives are on the watch, like the pir- 
 ate hawk, with their runners to drag you in, the principal thing in 
 this case, to see some big jewel; th shops were they abound being a- 
 way above par in number. They want to show you the big ruby or 
 emerald and then when they get you inside produce jewelry set with 
 precious stones; of all sorts all coming from that country such as 
 topaz, sapphires of great variety, rubies, (they are nearly all spinels) 
 and moonstones, oh, my!!!! Many of these are varieties of precious 
 stones cut from pebbles found in Ceylon and look very pretty, and I 
 think you will find a greater varie ty of precious stones in Ceylonthan 
 in any other country in the globe. The natives seem to trust the tour- 
 ists, as they will let you take a stone out to shqw somebody, and leave 
 loads of them lying around, but I guess they know who they are dealing 
 with, or they are not as valuable as they seem; and woe betide you if 
 you seem to show an interest at all, they pester the life out of you to 
 buy, and the way they start out to ask you fifty rupees for a piece of 
 jewelry and finally come down to four or five would make your head 
 swim, and generally your money goes swimming also, but toward the 
 jewelers pocket book. It only required a couple of hours patience 
 and you got it at your own price low enough or you get stung badly. 
 A couple of amusing incidents in that line I will relate: I was getting 
 on the tender to come ashore one morning when a native approached 
 me and showed me six pretty cut stones or pieces of glass about the 
 size each of a two carat diamond, they were different colors and I 
 for fun asked him what he wanted for them he said "I will sell them 
 cheap only two pounds ($10.00) how much will you give," all said in 
 the same breath.I answered one rupee (33 cents) he turned on his heel 
 in disgust and went to another and I said don't give him over one 
 rupee, he dickered around, and finally took the one rupee from the oth- 
 er fellow for the stones, they were worth that as a curiosity. Another 
 instance the next day a fellow offered me some very pretty moon- 
 stones I ask him how much? One shilling each was the answer (25 
 cents), I offered him a shilling for a dozen of them and in a few min- 
 utes got them for that and picked the dozen out of the lot, some of 
 the moonstones have considerable Jfire, and the best ones show the 
 stars nicely, and make a very pretty cheap setting for small pins, 
 necklaces or nearly anything. There were some pretty high prices 
 paid for stuff here, and no doubt many of the people were stung pret- 
 ty badly. The workmanship of the jewelery is very crude and does 
 not show the finish of our workmen here. One of the jewelers told 
 
Outrigger Canoes on Beach at Mt. Lavinia 
 
 Child Lace Makers in Ceylon 
 
93 
 
 me they paid on the average about two rupees a carat to tho natives 
 for the cut stones, some being worth more and some less. It is best 
 not to buy in Ceylon unless you are an expert or get the stuff so 
 low that it would be worth that for "brass and glass" as the natives 
 call each others goods. 
 
 A funny cigar lighting apparatus was noticed in one of the cigar 
 stores, it was a piece of rope lighted at one end and hanging down 
 smouldering away, quite original I thought, possibly that was where 
 the original idea came from, who knows? The museum as usual con- 
 tained a fine collection, embracing everything much of which was in- 
 teresting. The usual places of interest were visited, such as Tem- 
 ples, Parks, the native quarters, the only thing out of the ordinary 
 were the cinnamon gardens, where we got the branches off the tret' 
 and enjoyed eating the bark like we do the birch bark here in the 
 spring. It had a very strong cinnamon flavor and the leaves also 
 were strongly scented with it. Here also were plenty of crOws and a 
 great nuisance, so bad that they had to have notices in the rooms 
 at the hotels not to leave things lying around or the crows would fly 
 in and make off with them. They have many venomous snakes on 
 the island, a good many people dying from their bites every year. One 
 instance I heard of that happened a few weeks before, an Englishman 
 who lived there was found dead in bed in the room in bis house, show- 
 ing plain'y the marks of having been bitten the night before while he 
 iaid in bed asleep. 
 
 One afternoon we took a ride on a little railroad out along the 
 seashore for a few miles to a place colled ML Lavinia and it was a mos! 
 enjoyable trip through miles of cocoanut trees. A fine hotel was located 
 on a promotory extending out into the oeean, and on a beautiful spol 
 down below on the beach lay a goodly number of these outriggers ca- 
 noes which gave us a chance to examine them closely. A fish market 
 was near, there the fish were being auctioned off that had just came 
 in on the boats, and a varied assortment they were, of all colors and 
 shapes. A native for a couple of annas would put a belt around his 
 body and with the greatest ease go up a cocoanut tree forty or fifty 
 feejt, cut off a nut bring it down chop the top off and you get amosl 
 delicious drink of the real milk of the cocoanut, that was refreshing 
 but too sweet to drink much of. I also went, up in the woods apiece 
 where I saw several little children weaving lace with bobbins that 
 they sold for a small sum. There was an interesting old Buddhist tem- 
 ple up in the woods that had for its chief curiosity the whole life and 
 trials of Buddha, depicted in a rath er coarse painting, on its walls and 
 the native priest explained the whole story to me, a wonderful tale 
 he did unfold. 
 
 Our trip to Kandy was the best of all, for the varied scenery and 
 the many new things of interest seen. Kandy is about seventy miles 
 by rail from Colombo up in the mountains two thousand feet above 
 sea level. Wo ran through the jungles for a while and soon began 
 to wind our way up the mountain, all the way long in many places 
 the rice fields were being cultivated by the natives; the road lined on 
 all sides with the cocoanut palms in fact we saw more of these in 
 Ceylon than any other place, and it is said the crop amounts to near- 
 ly a billion cocoanuts a year. The scenery was not grand o'r sublime 
 
94 
 
 like much of the mountain scenery in our country, but it was beauti- 
 ful, The railroad wound on up around the sides of the mountains 
 through dense tropical growths with the terraced rice fields lying a 
 thousand feet beneath and now and then the straight lines of a tea 
 farm or the outlines of a hill which had been cleared of vegetation and 
 planted with rubber trees. The view changed with every mile and all 
 of it was interesting, but the cars with their low protecting eaves 
 cut off much of the view from any but those who sat next to the win- 
 dows. The cars are built that way as a protection against the intense 
 heat of the sun, and is necessary most of the year in that country. 
 
 We, after three hours journey landed at Peradeniya, the station 
 located nearest to the famous Botanical Garden which is generally ac- 
 cepted as the finest in the world but our time was to short to thoro- 
 ughly enjoy the beautiful spot, so filled with so many plants and trees 
 we had never seen before. It seemed a shame to go through it like 
 some boys go to College, in the front door and out the back. There was 
 all varieties of palms running into the hundreds, and many other trop- 
 ical trees and all varieties of the famous spice trees for which Cey- 
 lon is famous. The Cannon ball tree on which the fruit bursts o- 
 pen with a loud report, and shoots its seeds around; the deadly Upas 
 tree, to sleep under whose spread ing branches means death; the cof- 
 fee, the cocoa with its red pods, and the many varieties of rubber trees, 
 etc. There were beautiful orchids in great variety; the ancient papy- 
 rus from which the old Egyptians made their paper, and vast quan- 
 tities of plant life of all kinds that would take you days to see it all 
 and examine it. Our guide went up to a clump of bamboo trees and 
 hit hard against one of the trunks and from off the top of the tree 
 flew a large number of the vampire bats, their ugly hairy bodies, 
 hooked wings with a spread of six feet, and hideous heads, gave you 
 the shivers as they flew lazily aw ay to another tree. We started 
 for Kandy four miles away for tiffin, and it certainly was an exper- 
 ience for me, most of the way was down hill, I was riding in a rickisha 
 but the fellow pulling it was very light in weight while I weighed a- 
 bou' 250; he started at a pretty goo d gait and the vehicle soon got 
 beyond his control going faster and faster, he took steps nearly 10 
 feet apart, I leaned forward to keep him from being thrown up over 
 me backwards. He missed a couple of carriages by a hair, and my 
 hair was soon up on end, a couple of sharp turns we were on one 
 wheel. He made an effort to slow up but could not do so, T had to try 
 and grab the wheels and soon pulled him up with a turn, but at the 
 expense of half the skin off the inside of my hand. I kept the hand 
 brake on after that, did not wish any more such experiences. Along 
 the whole route to Kandy the "Kandy Kids" were the whole thing, 
 a continual stream, as many as we saw in Japan and they gave us just 
 as great reception, but they were shameless little beggars and did it 
 m such comical ways at times that you were sorely tempted to com- 
 ply with t.h^v demands. They were most of them in the usual full dress 
 I have spoken of before. We had a very nice tiffin at the Kandy ho- 
 tel, and took rides around the country after; they have so many beau- 
 tiful spots and drives it would seem as if you never got tired. The cen- 
 tre of attraction here is the temple of the Tooth, and if it were not 
 for the great reverence in which it it is held by the millions of the ad- 
 
95 
 
 herents of the Buddhist religion, would have been badly disappoint- 
 ing. It is a very ordinary looking building nothing like some of the 
 fine temples we had seen, and is supposed to contain the tooth of 
 the Gaudama Buddha, and the fact that the original relic was seized 
 and burned by the Portugese priests some centuries ago, does not af- 
 fect the Buddhists, although the alleged tooth is nothing but a piece 
 of ivory about two inches long carved in the shape of a tooth, and 
 resting on a lotus flower of pure gold in the innermost shrine of the 
 temple, and is surrounded by precious stones and jewels of enormous 
 value. Three hundred sacred turt les are kept in this temple, and it 
 seems to be the meeting place of all the beggars of the vicinity, as 
 they were there by the hundreds with all their disgusting and mon- 
 strous deformities. I visited a cour t in session, was very much inter- 
 ested for quite a while. There were snake charmers around the ho- 
 tel who really did some quite marvelous things. We left Kandy a- 
 bout 8 o'clock arriving home on the ship at midnight having enjoy- 
 ed the trip very much indeed. 
 
 The main streets of Colombo bordered with many trees with 
 I heir brilliant colored flowers make many pretty pictures and as is 
 usual with British control are well policed and cleanly kept. The 
 whole island of Ceylon is interesting, with its varied scenery, many 
 varieties of tropical plants, buried cities and the many different fea- 
 lures of human life found in different parts of the island. So many 
 shipping lines stop there, that it is easy to come to and to go from at 
 any time. The railroads of Ceylon are owned and operated by the gov- 
 ernment and are said to make a profit of $3,000,000 a year above oper- 
 ating expenses; the construction cost must have been great in some 
 parts of the mountains, but the road often runs through level coun- 
 try which would reduce the average It is said that five thousand na- 
 I ives lost their lives in building the road, through snake bites and dis- 
 ease. 
 
 Ceylon is one of the loveliest spots on the earth vieing with Java 
 and Hawaii, the "golden mohur," a tree covered with golden flowers 
 compels admiration, while the "flame of the forest" is such a mass 
 of scarlet blooms that you wonder every time you see one. 
 
 The following poem by Mr. L. A. Sherman, on Cevlon can be ad- 
 vantageously used here. 
 
 IN CEYLON'S BEAUTEOUS ISLE. 
 
 Fair Ceylon, loveliest of the tropic isles, 
 
 Where man is indolent and nature smiles; 
 Where softened airs blow from the southern sea, 
 
 And earth and sky respond in harmony; 
 Where field and forest, plain and mountainside 
 
 Are veiled in richest garments, like a bride; 
 Where every prospect nature brings to view 
 
 Is prodigal of charm and beauties new. 
 Nor may we say man has not done his part 
 
 In supplementing nature's gifts with art; 
 For here we find the Brito n's master hand 
 
 Brings peace and comfort in a jungle land. 
 
9 <5 . ,1 
 
 We anchor in this harbor, eat his food, 
 
 And scale the heights to Kandy on his road; 
 Then let us give our British cousins praise 
 
 For much enjoyment on these tropic ways. 
 Here let us pause, nor dwell on native life, 
 
 The beggar hoards, the bargaining and strife; 
 The dirt and squalor, nakedness 'and want 
 
 That Northmen hide and tropic countries vaunt; 
 Note and remember all these pleasant things 
 
 That this world cruise for our enjoyment brings; 
 And not without regret speak our good-byes 
 
 To India's strands and Ceylon's radiant skies. 
 
 The government used old rails for telegraph poles, making 
 very substantial ones in that country where the insects do so much 
 damage to the wood, and again the freight on them to ship them back 
 for old iron would eat up their value for that purpose. 
 
 On Wednesday evening the 20 th of April the ship turned her 
 nose northward again for Bombay, a forced run of two days and a- 
 bout three nights being nearly nine hundred miles from Colombo. 
 .The trip .was a lively one with several parties and a dance. A shad- 
 ow was cast over what would have been otherwise the most pleasant 
 trip; by the first death on the ship of one of the party, Noble John W. 
 Good, of Moline, Illinois had a stroke of apoplexy about half past 
 eleven Thursday night and though the several doctors did what they 
 could for him he died at one o'clock in the morning. The body 
 was immediately embalmed and put in a casket and taken off the ship 
 at Bombay, and sent home on one of the P. & O. liners running direct 
 to London, and from there brought to the U. S. 
 
 He left a wife and son, both extremely nice people whom every- 
 body on the ship liked, and on the advice of her friends Mrs. Good 
 was persuaded to return home on the ship with the party, she being 
 with friends who could do more for her than if she went among 
 strangers and would get home just as soon. I immediately called 
 a meeting of the Shriners, appropriate resolutions were drafted and 
 passed and copies given the widow; and sent to Kaba Temple of Du- 
 buque, Iowa, of which he was a member, and a committee of sever- 
 al of the Shriners who were also going direct home were appointed 
 to look after any and all her wants possible and assist her wherever 
 they could. 
 
 Noble Good was a quiet unassuming gentleman who was liked by 
 everybody that knew him and was what we would call here a clean 
 cut man, and he would have to be to hold the important position he 
 did of Treasurer of the Deere Harvester Co., of Illnois. I had a con- 
 versation with him about ten o'clock of the night he died, in the smok- 
 ing room and he did not seem to be any different than usual and his 
 death was indeed a sudden shock to all of us. 
 
 On my arrival home I found a letter from Kaba Temple A. A. O. 
 N. M. S. of Davenport, Iowa, acknowledging receipt of the reso- 
 lutions and stating that they had been read at the regular session of 
 I he Temple and ordered spread in full upon the minutes. The letter 
 stated that he was an exemplary citizen and stood in high esteem as 
 
'.;? 
 
 a citizen as well as a Mason. The Temple expressed their appreciation 
 of this mark of kindness of the Brethern and thanked us for the 
 attention thus shown the family in their bereavement in foreign 
 lands. He was buried by his Commandery of Knights Templar, late 
 m June. A list of the Nobles of the Mystic Shrine on board the 
 board the Cleveland will appear at the end of the story, together with 
 the name and location of the Temple of which they were members, 
 
 Dr. Myers, of Kentucky, who had been in the Philippines as an 
 army surgeon for throe years and who managed to get on the ship as 
 a passenger home, gave a dinner in the grill to the birthday party crowd 
 on Thursday evening, and a very enjoyable evening we passed and was 
 followed later in the evening by a pineapple party on the aft hurri- 
 cane deck given by Mr. Ira Smith of Pittsburg, also one of the parly. 
 
 Between the dinner in the grill and the pineapple party, the regu- 
 lar dance was held on deck, the evening being cool and pleasant, we 
 enjoyed that very much also. OnFriday evening Miss Biggs of Pitts- 
 burg for whom I had given the first birthday party had a return din- 
 ner in the grill to the same party at which we had considerable fun. 
 and we made the most of it as it was to be the last, one. We arriv- 
 ed in the harbor of Bombay about ten o'clock and finally was landed 
 by lenders about three. 
 
 — »ueefJOt!CBM ■■••=• - 
 
9« 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 AGRA and the TAJ MAHAL. 
 
 The people who were going to Agra, to visit that famous place 
 with its wonder of the world the Taj Mahal, were divided up into 3 par- 
 ties; one small party of thirty-six of us having two special sleeping 
 cars on the regular train, and the other two parties of about 125 each 
 having two special trains that ran about an hour apart. Agra was 856 
 miles from Bombay and it made quite a run of about 26 hours, our 
 regular train left at four o'clock and arrived at Agra at sis the 
 next evening, and we stayed at the hotel all night, while the specials 
 left at nine o'clock that evening and did not get to Agra until the 
 second morning. They spent a whole day there and left at ten o'clock 
 at night arriving the second morning in Bombay putting in four nights 
 on the cars. A great many dreaded the trip after having engaged and 
 paid for it, and the last few days the tickets could have been purchas- 
 ed for very little money. As a sort of a joke, on the ship before leav- 
 ing Bombay I wrote and posted a couple of notices. "Wanted — A trip 
 to Agra ticket, will trade some moonstones for one, apply to room 328" 
 I had put it up as a joke but many took it seriously although there 
 was no such a room number on the ship. In the afternoon after we 
 landed at Bombay one of the tourists offered some moonstones for an 
 Agra ticket and it was accepted and he went, I told him afterwards that 
 he owed me a commission for getting the trade idea into the parties 
 head. The moonstones cost about two cents apiece in Ceylon. 
 
 We, after leaving Bombay soon got into the country and a bleak 
 desert waste it was, seeming to be all sand and sage bushes, though 
 occasionally a piece of ground was farmed. In about an hour the train 
 began climbing the hill to the tableland that lies up high, and upon 
 which the most of the interior of India is located. The road winds a- 
 round and passes through many tunnels crossing back on itsself sev- 
 eral times before it finally reaches the heights, and then runs with 
 very little grade for six hundred miles into the interior. They had 
 ii3 rain for six months and everything was dried up, and the coun- 
 try we passed through put you very much in mind of the desert in 
 Arizona and New Mexico except as there also when we would come a- 
 crc-ss some irrigated land. 
 
99 
 
 The heat of the sun in the daytime was very intense and required 
 blue glasses to protect the eyes. All the cars had three kinds of win- 
 dows, one with blue glass, one with slats and one with white transpar- 
 ent glass; the blue glass was very acceptable in the daytime modify- 
 ing the intense rays of the sun reflected from off the sand. The 
 ears were comfortable, four people being in a very large compartment 
 which contained a complete lavatory. The bunks were four wid9 
 shelves the upper one folding back in the day time and the lower was 
 a couch seat. Your bedding you had to buy and take with you 0/ 
 you could rent it for the trip. The only real inconvenience suffered 
 was the lack of cool drinking water and the line dust that would a!. 
 times get into the car and cover every tiling despite windows and 
 doors being tightly closed. The compartments were electrical!;; 
 lighted and had electric fans and drop tables. The waits at the divis- 
 ion points were pretty long so that you could got out and streti 
 your legs and view the country and town. There were dining cars 
 attached to the train, and the me als serve* I in them were pretty fair. 
 You had to pay for ice, one anna or two cents. The best, part of it 
 all to me was the serving to you before you arose, delicious hot tea, 
 and cakes and strange as it seems it quenched your thirst and cool- 
 ed you off better than wafer.. We passed many interesting old towns 
 and ruins of forts on the high points relics of the feudal days and 
 the different tribes when all were warring against each other. 
 
 One large piece of the country was passed through, and part 
 which was a fine large fortified town mi a bluff; a native told me 
 was owned entirely by one Rajah, for nearly one hundred miles are: 
 there. Agra or Agra Cantonment as the name is known in raiiroa 
 circles, was reached about 17 o'clock railroad time. The railroads in 
 e the 24 hour time altogether. One o'clock being one A. M. 
 our time and 17 o'clock is 5 o'clock i J . ." '.".v. 
 
 After getting off the cars in Agra, we immediately took carriages 
 to go to the great red fort; a curiosity worth going miles to see 
 
 :elf, even if the Taj Mahal were destroyed. The fort is very imp 
 and as impregnable as could he imagined. Built of huge bloc! 
 fed sandstone, with moat and drawbridges, bastions and towers a 
 
 tlements, its massive wall must have appeared strong indeed 
 days when it was erected. Within these walls is the red pa; - 
 buill subsequently by Jahangir and tb pearl mosque and the white 
 
 ace built by Shah Jahan; the fort itself was built by Akbar. Ti 
 red palace is one of immense siz^ and is very imp] , hut is not 
 
 especially beautiful: the sloping stone b iams which support the roofs 
 show a phase of building that is new to western eyes, they must have 
 
 n skillfully and cunningly adjusted. The white palace, with its 
 courtyard and its gardens, its domes and hails, and its marble cm v- 
 and inlaid work, is wonderfully beautiful, Facing it and a little 
 higher than the open court, is the hall of public audience, an immei 
 plaza more than 200 feet long and seventy feet deep, through whic 
 entrance into the palace is made. This. broad plaza is one of the mot 
 striking and imposing features of the palace. Beyond this entrance 
 is what was formerly the fish tank, but is now a court. From one cor- 
 ner of this a paved way leads to the gem mosque, where the royal 
 
100 
 
 ladies worshipped, and near this is the bazaar, where they inspected 
 the wares the tradesmen had to offer to them. The gem mosque 
 is small dainty and charming. The emperor's private mosque, very 
 plain and simple, lies in another part. The most elaborate' portion 
 of the palace is on the edge of the fort wall and overlooks the river. 
 In the hall of private audience, which consists of an open colonnade 
 in front and an enclosed room at the back, the marble is elaborately 
 and beautifully carved in flowers and leaves, and flowers are inlaid 
 in the white marble in jade and jasper and carnelian and other semi 
 precious stones. Then there is the grape garden and the kings pri- 
 vate pavillion on either side of which are court yards of marble; 
 and on the river side of these are the two golden payillions and the 
 .jasmine tower with its golden dome the palace is a creation of extra- 
 ordinary beauty which even the ravages of time and the acts of 
 vandals have not effaced, and constant exclamations of wonder and ad- 
 miration were dieted from the visitors. In this palace Shah Jahan 
 was imprisoned by his son for thir teen years and from it, across the 
 wafers of the Jumma, he could see the beautiful building which he 
 had erected to the memory of his wife. 
 
 it js paid that the pearl mosque which is situated some distance 
 from the palace, is the most exquisite house of prayer in existance. 
 The outside is a plain wall of red sandstone and a flight of rough 
 step* leads up to the great red galeway. Passing through this one 
 enters a large open square with a marble tank in the centre and 
 one's appreciation of its beauty and perfection grows stronger the long- 
 ger he ga.:es. On the face of the building there is an inscription 
 made of black marble inlaid in wh do. which says the mosque may be 
 bkened to a precious pearl. The prayer places are divided off in this 
 mosque l.v partitions of carved marble with its delicate traceries mak- 
 ing it loos at a little distance like some beautiful piece of lace. But 
 there was so much of this delicate lace like carving of the marble and 
 .he beautiful inlaying in all sorts of pretty and intricate designs with 
 precious st-.mes wherever we went in the show places of Agra that we 
 had to soon cease to wonder. 
 
 When we left the fort finally it Was protly nearly time for the 
 sun to set and we hurried to the crowumg l.hmg of all we had coma 
 io seo, the 'iaj Mahal, accounted one of the wonders of the world and 
 a nio;;i:iiieii! to the great love a man had for a woman, which gives it 
 -ie proper touch of romance to make its beauties seem the softer and 
 looked upon with a more pleasing eye. I can't attempt to picture it, 
 would not have missed it for anything and all I can do is to try and 
 ^ay a lew words that will help to give you a little idea of it, but you 
 nave to see it to have its beauty grow on you the longer you look 
 and to me though I visited it three times in my short stay in Agra' 
 1 was never tired of it and loathed to leave the spot, I climbed the 
 surrounding mosques in different places to get the view from all points 
 1 saw it by the setting sun, by the bright rays of the full moon, and 
 then again in the full light of the morning sun, and it had new beau- 
 ties each time; adjectives would fail you if you had a dictionary full 
 of tnem. , so much did it impress me. Disappointment would be im- 
 possible. Nobody could be disappointed in this building whose beau- 
 
Lady 
 
 Screen and Tomb in the Taj Mahal 
 
 The Taj Mahal 
 
101 
 
 ty and glory have halted the tongue of the poet and stopped the pen 
 of the master of languages for centuries. It requires no architect to 
 see the perfection of its proportions, the harmnoy which it express- 
 es, and needs no artist to appreciate the perfection of its beauty; 
 that is the charm of it, that mere mortals whose life and education 
 have been along the various lines of human endeavour come under 
 the spell of its wondrous and transcendant beauty just as truly as 
 do those whose lives have been dtvoted to those finer arts that devel- 
 op love for and appreciation of the beautiful. It is a class by itself 
 in all the architectural marvels of the world and can be truly said 
 that it is the most beautiful structure in the world. 
 
 Its charms depends upon qualities that can not be painted nor 
 described, upon simplicity and symmetry, upon exquisite proportion 
 and delicacy, upon its setting in a beautiful garden.and upon the blend 
 ing of all these into one harmonious whole which robs the beholder 
 of power of criticism and leaves only appreciation of the beauty. 
 Though I cannot hope to adequately describe it for you, I know that 
 some of you will be interested in information concerning it and I will 
 do the best I can to give you an idea of its construction. Through 
 a huge gate of red sandstone one enters a garden and at the far end 
 of a double line of walks, with a marble water course between and 
 with green lawns and green trees on either side, the Taj bursts upon 
 one. The view from here is possibly as impressive as any that can be 
 obtained, although closer inspection is required for the more deli- 
 cate and subtle beauties of the carving and inlaid work; the close- 
 est inspection adds to this first impression' in every way growing up- 
 on you every minute the more you see of it. 
 
 The Taj is square, 270 feet high, but with each of the corners cut 
 away, and is built entirely of Jaitur marble, a sort of a light cream gray 
 making it look somewhat like old ivory- A huge dome surmounts it 
 and there are several smaller domes at the corners. All four sides are 
 the same, an immense arch reaching to the base of the dome and en- 
 closing a great recess or vaulted roof; on each side of the arch are 
 two small alcoves, one above the other, and recessed deep into the 
 building. Where the corners are cut away there are also deep al- 
 coves. On the rear wall of the arc hes are windows of finely carved 
 marble work, and over the four principal arches are floral designs 
 in colored stone, with a passage from the Koran inlaid in black let- 
 ters above and at the sides of the arches. Encircling the base of the 
 dome, and at the top of the smaller arches is inlaid work. The white 
 marble of every wall is carved in designs of exquisite delicacy. The 
 building stands upon an immense marble paved platform 285 feet 
 square, at each corner of which stands a lofty minaret of white mar- 
 ble looking like gigantic candles to light the way to realms above 
 and were marked out with narrow stripes in black marble. 
 
 Great mosques of finely carved red sandstone stand at either side 
 of this large platform. The Taj, in the centre of the great white 
 court formed by the platform, with massive minarets standing like sen- 
 tinels at the corners, with the mosque at either side, the river at the 
 north and the beautiful garden and the tall trees and the great red 
 gate and wall in front, has an appearance of majesty that overwhel- 
 
102 
 
 ms one and renders him dumb so far as expressing his feelings is 
 concerned. The interior of the building is scarce less impressive. 
 Passing beneath the great arch and through a passageway one finds 
 himself in a huge octagonal room and in front of him is an inner 
 wall or screen of the most exquisitely carved marble, lace like 
 in its effect and delicacy of design. 
 
 Within his screen, which in loses the area directly beneath 
 the dome, is the little tomb of thelady of the Taj and the larger one 
 of the man whose love for her found expression in this wonderful mau- 
 soleum. The tombs themselves, exquisitely carved and inlaid with 
 semi precious stones. These cenotaphs do not contain the bodies 
 for in accordance with Mohammedan custom these lie directly beneath 
 in a vault; this vault, to which a stairway leads, is of white marble 
 and its walls are absolutely plain. The mansoleum is divided into pas- 
 sages and recesses and as one wonders through them in the dim light 
 beneath the great vaulted roof he experiences a feeling of solemnity 
 and awe that is unusual with us practical unimaginative people of 
 the west. One is inclined to tread softly and speak in subdued tones. 
 
 Some like it by moonlight best but it takes the sun to bring out 
 all the beauty of this incomparable building, but the beauty is present 
 ed in a new and softer aspect in the moonlight There is a beautiful 
 toned echo whic*h is one of the properties of the building inside this 
 vaulted dome, and when few were there the priests uttering their 
 prayers in loud tones made an echo lasting for several minutes that 
 toward the end sounded exactly like the dying notes of a sweet ton- 
 ed bell. 5 
 
 The Taj Mahal was begun in 1630 by Shah Jahan, who is accoun- 
 ted one of the greatest of the mogul emperors who ruled India in the 
 days of her highest glory. It was seventeen years in building and is 
 variously estimated to have cost around $17,000,000. The emperor is 
 said to have planned a mausoleum for himself on the opposite bank of 
 the river and had already laid the foundations, which are still to be 
 seen, when he was seized and imprisoned by his son. The wife's name 
 was Mumtaz Mahal daughter of Asaf Kahn and was married to 
 Shah Jahan in 1615 and had seven children and died in 1629 in giving 
 birth to the last who was a girl named Jehanara and there is a beau- 
 tiful story connected with the greatdevotion this daughter showed to 
 ber father and who was her fathers only comfort, when to all the at- 
 tractions of her brothers court she turned a deaf ear and remain < 
 at his side during all the incarceration in the palace. The wife's 
 body was brought to this place and buried temporarily in the garden 
 where the Taj stands until the structure was completed seventeen 
 years after. Jehanara the daughter who was faithful was buried at 
 her own request under the green sod far from the pomp of court life, 
 but a beautiful carved alabaster screen surrounds her burial place 
 and the sun and light have free access to the green grass and the 
 flowers on her grave. 
 
 The identity of the architect of the Taj Mahal is uncertain and 
 there was said to be several of them, and again that there was 
 only one and that he had his eyes put out when the structure was 
 completed so that he could not again produce another such a f inp struct- 
 ure. 
 
103 
 
 The tombs of ADkar about five miles out of Agra is also a very 
 imposing one built in a different style of red sandstone. It is a 
 pyramidical building four stories high, the top one where Abkar's 
 body lies being of white marble, the rest red sandstone. A massive 
 cloister runs around the lower story broken i»y high arches. In the 
 centre of the upper story, which is reached by a narrow staircase, 
 is the white cenotaph of Abkar on the one side is inscribed Allantin 
 Abkar meaning God is Greatest, and on the other Jalla Jalahahn, mean- 
 ing May His Glory shine, on the north is a marble pillar beauti- 
 fully carved which was covered wi|h gold and at one time contained 
 the Kohinoor, the famous diamondnow belonging to the king of Eng- 
 land. 
 
 Tbe tomb of Itmaud-ud-dulah, the Persian adventurer whose grand 
 daughter was the lady of the Taj was built by Jahangir and is situa- 
 ted m a beautiful garden across the river in Agra. It stands on a 
 platform 150 feet square and is an imposing structure. The delicate 
 carving and marble lace work and the inlaid work on this is also 
 very beautiful and much more elaborate than the Taj as there is 
 more of it and greater variety. 
 
 The deserted city of Fatehpur Sikri is twenty miles from Agra. 
 it was built by Abkar for his capital but was abandoned for Agra 
 because of the unhealthiness and lack of water. It is a complete city 
 in good state of preservation and contains many fine structures and 
 is just as it was when deserted in a night as it were, three hund- 
 red years ago. 
 
 The strangest thing of all though is the supreme dirtiness, squa- 
 lour and unsightliness of the whole town of Agra itsself when it 
 contains so many of these beautiful structures, some of which I have 
 mentioned. It looks something, especially in the native quarters, like 
 a collection of Indian villages as ar e found in New Mexico. It covers a 
 lot of ground and the crumbling walls and miserable huts give some 
 sort of shelter to a dirty wretched and degenerate set of people. The 
 splendor of the fine buildings ma kes the squalor stand out so much 
 more. Camels stalked silently through the streets, bullock teams and 
 dejected looking donkeys jostled the herds of goats and sheep, Mon- 
 keys leaped among the tree branches, peacocks and parrots added 
 their gaudy colors to the already very strange scene, people barefoot, 
 half naked, some picturesquely clothed, and the various shops with 
 different workers all added to the weirdness of it all. I saw in one 
 place a peculiar low wheeled wagon the lower part being about three 
 foot high and all covered around with good sized iron bars making a 
 complete and strong cage, the upper part above the top covered with 
 bamboo matting containing produce but inside the cage securely lock- 
 ed in and all open to the sun sat a woman crouched up. As there was 
 nobody near that could speak English I looked in amazement but could 
 not find out what it was for, so had to depart with my curiosity un- 
 satisfied. The European section of Agra of course was not like this, 
 but just the reverse and contained many fine shops, where we saw 
 embroidering of the finest kind Queen Alexandria's coronation robe 
 having been embroidered here, tha t work is done entirely by men. 
 
 In the marble inlaying shops one of which is the best at that 
 work in the world, we saw some beautiful pieces of work in all pro- 
 
104 
 
 cesses of manufacture, one piece of which was a chancel, being made 
 for a church at Washington, D. G. The large rug making establish- 
 ment we visited was also interesting, to see those boys they mostly 
 were, four or five to a rug deftly tying the various colored threads, 
 a man calling out the pattern as they worked. We stopped at a ho- 
 tel in the place over night and had a very fine lot of meals well cook- 
 ed and of the best, well served by native servants. The rooms 
 were all on the ground floor opening both back and front, covered 
 mosquito netting doors, and the beds also canopied with it. My 
 room had a small back room all cement and in it the galvanized 
 wash tub which was filled by the natives from the rear door, and 
 from which I took the bath by pouring water over my head, that I 
 had begun to like very much. The rooms have no doors and anybody 
 can walk in and out of them so that you have a sort of uncanny 
 feeling about whether you are safe or not from the natives, beasts or 
 reptiles, but I slept pretty soundly anyhow. 
 
 I heard a funny tale about some of the native servants, a gen- 
 tleman had a head man, and one day he said to him "Boy" I want 
 to make a deal with you, I will give you six rupees more a month 
 if you will give me your word you won't steal anything, The serv- 
 ant scratched his head a minute and said, all right, and the gentle- 
 man slated that for one month his provision bills were only about 
 half but at the end of the month Boy came to him and said he was 
 going to quit. The master wanted to know what was the matter, he 
 sairt he did not like that way of paying, if he stayed any longer he 
 wanted to go bacK to the old way. That is a customary thing in In- 
 dia that the head and in fact all the . servants expect to steal the 
 provisions and get their rake off of course. Possibly where the orig- 
 inal idea of onr present American graft come from. 
 
 At noon \\>- were pretty tired as we had gone to bed late and got- 
 ten up early and had been going hard all the time and after lunch 
 we look g.hcrri.\s for the depot and took our train for Bombay. 
 
 A few words about Delhi, which place onf? the ones who crossed 
 India reached, and which is the only really other interesting place 
 in the interior of India outside of Agra. There is much for the tourist to 
 see there, for it has been the site of an important city for many 
 centuries, the Hindoo chronicles going back as far as 1400 B. G. The 
 city has passed through many vicisitudes, being first under Hindoo 
 rule, then under Mohammedan, and since 1857, the year of !the Mutiny 
 the British have had occupation. There is the fort, and a beautiful 
 building of white marble, ornamented with rich mosaics, in whose hall 
 once stood the famous Peacock Throne, that was carried off by 
 the Persians in A. D. 1730, and which v/as variously valued from 
 ten million to thirty million dollars. Then there is the Pearl, or Mote 
 Mosque, as at Agra, and the Jumma Musjid, the most famous mosque 
 in India, as well as the largest. It is said to contain many of the 
 relics of Mohammed which the priests show you with great rev- 
 erence. It was built in the year 1658 the same time that Shah Jehan 
 was deposed by his son and took 6 years to build. Delhi contains 
 the famous Golden Mosque into which you are not permitted to go. 
 also the Black Mosque that has some fine architectural beauty. 
 
 The Hindoo women wear a great amount of jewelry carrying all their 
 
105 
 
 wealth in jewels mostly secreted around their body the poorer ones 
 i^vould have strings of gold eo ins in great profusion, while the richer 
 ones I way told carried as much as fifty thousand dollars worth of 
 jewels on their bodies all the time. 
 
 The following poem on India is printed with the permission of 
 Mr. Sherman, of Port Huron, Mieh.,one of the tourists on the Cleve- 
 land Cruise. 
 
 THE LIGHTS and SHADES of INDIA. 
 
 Then to India, onward cruising, 
 
 Up the slit-brown Hoogly river, 
 Outlet of the sacred Ganges, 
 
 Come we next to famed Calcutta- 
 Here we find life shown in contrasts, 
 Homes palatial, parks and fountains, 
 Splendid streets and business buildings, 
 Homes and marts of ruling Britons. 
 Served by humble, hopeless Hindus, 
 Housed in hovels most repulsive. 
 Held in bonds of superstition, 
 
 Bound by chains of caste distinctions, 
 No more wretched human creatures 
 
 Walk the earth than low caste Hindus, 
 Blame the pagan, not the Briton. 
 
 O'er the Hindus sacred city; 
 O'er Benares, on the Ganges, 
 
 O'er its scenes and sights repulsive, 
 Let us draw the veil of silence; 
 
 Let us hide its ghats and temples, 
 Banish from our minds their horrors; 
 Hopeless these of reformation, 
 , Sunk in darkest superstition. 
 
 Then at Agra, where the Moguls, 
 Builded forts, and tombs, and temples, 
 Build ed minarets and arches, 
 ; Let us pause and let us Linger; 
 
 Pause to read the wondrous poem, 
 Traced in gems and wrought in marble, 
 
 Love's memorial to a woman. 
 To a queen, a wife, a mother, 
 
 See the Taj Mahal at sunrise, 
 Through the haze and mists of morning; 
 
 View it in the mellow moonlight, 
 When its dome is sheathed with silver. 
 
 Never shall its charms diminish, 
 Always shall it breathe a love -song, 
 [ Tell the story of devotion 
 
 To the wife of Mosul Jehan. 
 
106 
 
 Gome we next to modern Bombay, 
 Modern in its splendid buildings, 
 
 Oriental in its people 
 In the races intermingled 
 
 In its streets and public places, 
 Here the Parsee lives and prospers, 
 
 Holds the creed of Zo raster, 
 Worships fire and earth and water; 
 
 Gives his body to the vultures 
 On the solemn Tower of Silence, 
 
 When the soul has left its confines. 
 Strange the scenes we view in Bombay, 
 
 Strange the costumes, strange the people; 
 Not in words may they be pictured. 
 
107 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 BOMBAY AND THE RED SEA. 
 
 We left Agra about 2 o'clock 'ijn. the afternoon andi arrived in 
 Bombay the next afternoon about four, and the down trip was un- 
 eventful except a violent wind and rain storm for about half an hour 
 that cooled the air and was the first for several months. 
 
 At Bombay we found carriages waiting to take our party around to 
 see the sights of Bombay as we had left for Agra immediately on land- 
 ing. We visited the Burning Ghat here but it was not such a grew- 
 some sight as at Calcutta, there were more reverence and ceremony 
 about it and the fires were built up on a sort of a grate instead of 
 being in holes in the ground. Several other things were visited of a 
 similiar nature to those we had seen in other places so a descrip- 
 tion is not necessary. 
 
 One of the wonders near Bombay is the Ancient Buddhist Cave 
 Temple, commonly known as the Elephant Caves. It is about three 
 hours journey from Bombay on an island in the face of a steep cliff 
 ami is considered one of the largest and most complete specimens of 
 Buddhist "chaitya" and was probably built about 78 years before 
 Christ by Majarajah Bhuttia. The interior architecture, there being 
 of course no exterior architecture resembles to a remarkable degree 
 the Gothic type. It is not unlike the Christian Church in form, con- 
 sisting of a nave and side isle terminating in an apse. Some fifteen 
 pillars separate the nave from the aisles, and the capitol of each pillar 
 is richly ornamented with the figures of two elephants bearing a man 
 and a woman or two female forms. The methed of lighting is very 
 solemn in its effect. An undivided volume of light comes through a 
 single opening overhead and falls on the altar, leaving the rest of the 
 temple in a comparative darkness. It is entirely hewn out of the rock 
 and is indeed a wonderful piece of work and is in a fine state of 
 preservation for its age of about two thousand years. The ride there 
 is by small boat. 
 
 One of the important things out of the ordinary were the Tow- 
 ers of Silence, the burying places of the Parsees, a high caste sect 
 thai originally were exiled from Persia about 1655 and came to India 
 and made considerable money on cotton during the time of our Civil 
 war, and they are still very wealthy now owning considerable of Bom- 
 bay at the present time. There are five Towers of diff- 
 erent sizes, and. located in a very beautiful little park on a hill at 
 the one side of the city.They are made of stone, the largest 25 feet 
 high and about 90 feet in circumference. Though they will not allow 
 t to see the inside of them there are models which show you the 
 
108 
 
 construction, the top is grooved! sloping or draining into the centre 
 which is a deep pit, the grooves are various sizes for the bodies of men 
 women and children. These grooves have a stone wall above the outer 
 edge about three feet high so that the top of the tower cannot be seen 
 from the outside. The gruesome part of the sight, were seated 
 around the wall on these towers, a flock of vultures as many as could 
 get places waiting for their feast of the dead. The bodies are taken 
 and placed on the top, the doors closed and in a few seconds cover- 
 ed with vultures and in less than half an hour the bones are strip- 
 ped clean and they are then taken and thrown down the centre well, 
 with a little quicklime. They have very fine receiving chapels to 
 hold the services in before disposing of the bodies, and the park is 
 very prettily arranged having an abundance of flowers, neat appear- 
 ing buildings and pretty walks, the only sinister things being those tow- 
 ers with their string of scavengers awaiting for their feast. 
 
 This method of interment originates from the veneration the Par- 
 sees pay to the elements and their anxiety not to polute them. Fire 
 is too highly regarded by Parsees they being fire worshipers, for them 
 to allow it to be polluted by burning the dead, and water is equally 
 respected almost, and so is earth thence this singular method of 
 burial or disposing of the dead has been devised. The Parsees are the 
 followers of Zoraster which religion was for centuries the state and 
 national religion of Ancient Persia. In 612 A. D. the religion received 
 a check at the hands of the Arabs who, with sword in one hand and 
 Koran in the other, made the religion of Islam the state and also the 
 national religion of the country. But many of those who adhere to 
 the faith of their fathers quitted the land for the more hospitable 
 shores of India. There position is unique, a mere handful of persons 
 among the teeming millions of India and yet who, not only have preserv 
 ed their ancient race with the utmost purity, but also their religion 
 absolutely unimpaired by contact with others. ■ 
 
 The Taj Mahal Hotel in Bombay is one of or rather one may say 
 is the finest in the East, being a massive structure of fine architec- 
 ture and at which we were very comfortably housed. The Great Vic- 
 toria station at Bombay from which we took our train is also a fine 
 massive structure of striking appearance and is very well arranged 
 in the interior and is considered one of the finest in the world. 
 
 Many other points of interest visited were Malabar Hill, the fine 
 residence section, The Reservoir all under ground, the Mint, Town 
 Hall, Zoological Gardens, Custom House, Post Office, Eiphinstone In- 
 stitution, and Chamber of Gommerc e; of course in the evening the 
 streets containing the life of the town were visited and vice of all 
 sorts seen in all its splendor and gaudiness. The British authorities 
 seem to let these places alone wherever found on their territorial 
 ground, the people doing as they please as long as they keep within 
 reasonable grounds and do not com mil any felonious crimes. 
 
 We met at Bombay the rest of the party that left us to cross India 
 seventeen days before, everyone in good condition, and their return 
 in good health is a fine testimonial to the judgement and ability of Mr. 
 Clark, who was severely criticised by Englishmen and others residing 
 in India for attempting to take people across India at this time of 
 the year. We were led to believe that it would be mighty lucky if 
 
109 
 
 several of the tourists did not die and that it would be short of a mir- 
 acle if some did not have to be carried aboard the ship. 
 
 You could buy clothes very reasonably in India and many also pur- 
 chased light clothing in Colombo and Bombay to take home with 
 them. You could get a cotton twill suit for as low as one dollar, and 
 one made to order coat and pants of pretty good grade for $2.50 which 
 was the prevailing price. Silk suits cost you from ten to fifteen dollars 
 and of a very fine quality of silk. You could purchase all sorts of 
 modern things in Bombay and Calcutta principally, as well as the na- 
 tive things, those attracting my attention most being the beautiful 
 filagree silver work. 
 
 There were a great many cases of cholera and the bubonic plague 
 in the city of Bombay, but it seemed to be confined to certain quar- 
 ter although some Europeans caught them and died from one of the other 
 of those diseases, it was not in any number at all, the great majority 
 of the cases being the natives. Despite that fact, before we were al- 
 lowed to go on board the ship leaving Bombay, we were all rigidly in- 
 spected by the keen eyed physicians, they felt your pulse.looked at 
 your eyes, and checked your name off the list in a rapid manner,, but 
 they know the symptoms so well that a glance is all they needed to 
 know if you have any sign of it. with all the inspection at Bom- 
 bay we were given a close visual inspection at Suez nine days later, 
 before we landed in Egypt. A good deal of time was lost getting away 
 from Bombay on account of the contractors for the tenders not ful- 
 filling their contract, and a large amount of baggage that had to be 
 taken on board in large slings. We finally were all ready and pulled 
 up anchor at noon on Wednesday April 27th for the nest longest leg 
 of our journey, nine days to Suez. 
 
 A good deal of this time was spent by those intending to leave 
 the party at Cairo in packing their trunks, and all were closing up some 
 of the friendships that had been formed and were of nearly three 
 months standing. Many of the farewells were tearful, as there had 
 been many attachments formed °n the ship, but the best of friends 
 must part some time, though in one case they finally agreed not to 
 separate and one couple, Mr. Howard C. Bonsai, of Denver, Col., and 
 Miss Katherine Shull, of Minneapoli Minn., were married in London on 
 leaving the ship at Southampton. 
 
 Crossing the Indian Ocean we had the monsoon and it was rather 
 pleasant, though it is generally warm at this time of the year. The 
 nights were beautiful and I sleeping on deck, got the full advantage of 
 them. I saw the comet, every morning that the horizon was clear, very 
 distinctly, a couple of mornings the tail looked to be about forty feet 
 long, is the way I described it, and the moon looked large, nearly two 
 feet across, while in the states it looks to be about afoot in diame- 
 ter so that you can get an idea from that how large the tail of the 
 comet looked in the Indian ocean. The evening and morning stars 
 were Aery large and brilliant, be ing about ten times there brilliancy 
 al home. The Captain ran the shipas fast as possible across the Indian 
 Ocean so a^ to be ahead Qf time when he arrived at the straits 
 leading into the Red Sea expecting such sweltering heat that he would 
 have to turn the ship around and run backwards for a half hour or so 
 occasionally to give the passengers a breath of air; the going through 
 
110 
 
 the Red Sea generally is considered frightful for the extreme depres- 
 sing heat which has caused some to go crazy and throw themselves over 
 board and others to expire with the heat. Our usual luck was with 
 us as it had been all through the trip, and what we had gotten to call 
 Clark luck; for our whole passage up the Red Sea we really had fine 
 weather, and a couple of days the people had to wear wraps. The 
 Captain stated that of all the twen ty-six trips through that sheet of 
 water this was the first that he had had with any degree of comfort 
 whatever. 
 
 We were very much criticised by some of the papers and others 
 in India for the lack of thank you's and please's and some of the gen- 
 eral deportment part of which possibly we deserved, but as regards 
 the former, it goes against the grain to use those words in plenty when 
 you know you are paying a double price for everything and any ser- 
 vice and one must be pardoned for failing to thank the rascal who has 
 just picked his pocket. 
 
 Before we went to India had heard of the rule of the Briton 
 and entertained strong prejudice against them but after you had been 
 there and seen what they are up against, your prejudice turns to ad- 
 miration for having done so much and really benefitting the country. 
 We could better appreciate the tremendous obstacles to reform in 
 the multitudinous array of races and castes with their age long ani- 
 mosities and prejudices, . 
 
 The Briton is giving them the best government they ever had. The 
 extent of home rule and self government surprised one, Under the 
 present competitive civil service the ambitious and competent native 
 youth has small cause for comprint. 
 
 India as I said before will have to work out her own complete sal- 
 vation, others can but direct and inspire but she cannot be redeemed 
 in spite of herself,. India needs a bond that will unitp the many states 
 into one nation, the many races into one people, the many castes into 
 one social life and the many religions into one faith, and India must 
 supply the bond. They have desc ended from mighty men. Their fa- 
 thers have invented great religions, founded great philosophies, discov- 
 ered great truths, built wonderful palaces, temples and tombs, and 
 made India the glory of the world Some day some of these descend- 
 ents will become mighty and great for the common good and with wes- 
 tern influence arouse itself to the task of India's redemption and in 
 that day India will be saved. 
 
 On Thursday the 28th we had an informal dance on the B deck 
 which we enjoyed very much and also another on Wednesday the 4th 
 of May, while in the Red Sea. There were several Travelers Club meet- 
 ings during this trip but I will give a list of them later in the story. 
 There was considerable photograph ing going on the last few clays also, 
 of the various friendly groups, to have for remembrances of the 
 friendships that were formed, and lots of fun was had in getting poses 
 etc. The Red Sea is about 1000 miles long and took us nearly four days 
 to pass from one end to the other. The Straits at the lower end were 
 interesting for the large number of ships passed one of which made 
 a lot of excitement, a large Hamburg American liner went by us, only 
 about one hundred yards away, loadened with soldiers and marines 
 of the German Army and they ma nned the shrouds and sides of the 
 
Ill 
 
 boat and cheered us heartily, which was just as heartily returned. It 
 was a thrilling sight, and as at that time they were expecting trouble 
 with China we wondered if they w ould all come back. 
 
 .There is a Lloyd's station on an island in the centre of the straits 
 of Babel-Man-Ded from which ever y ship is reported by cable to Lon- 
 don, and from thence to the world. It was rather unique here in the 
 fact that the land on one side be longed to the French, on the oth- 
 er side to Turkey, but the strong fortified island in the middle to 
 Great Britain and is really the key to the whole situation even though 
 the Suez Canal is run by French. In passing up the Red Sea we Shri- 
 ners were much interested in pass ing Mecca, though we knew that 
 none other than a Moslem would) dare go there under the pain of 
 instant death, it is considered very Holy by the Moslems. The place 
 where the children of Israel were supposed to have crossed the Red 
 S^a was pointed out to us with much interest, but I guess any old 
 place would do for that without much dispute though at one place 
 in the bottom of the sea there was a great number of trophies, arms, 
 and relics of ancient Egypt found that would help to give the idea 
 that it was really where the pursuers of the children of Israel were 
 swallowed up by the waters coming back and engulfing them. Mt. Sinia 
 was pointed out also to us being one of a group of several mountains 
 looking alike. 
 
 We wondered very much where the name of the Red Sea originated 
 as there seemed to be nothing red about it, or surrounding it, until 
 one morning just for a short time about seven o'clock I in looking o- 
 ver the waters discovered that there was a sort of a haze that was dis- 
 tinctly red and gave everything a reddish cast, this lasted only until 
 the sun got a little higher and a very few on the ship noticed it at 
 all, I presume the weather was not right, to produce this haze from 
 which the name undoubtedly originates, at the time we passed through 
 except for the few minutes that I noticed it. 
 
 We drew into the Gulf of Suez and anchored very early in the 
 morning on Friday, May 6th, having been running slow for a couple 
 of days,; by some misunderstandingthe trains that were to convey us to 
 Cairo from Suez had not been ordered until noon and we were loafing 
 all morning waiting for them. The inspection was through with pretty 
 early, after the many tedious delays to get all the party together 
 and checked up rightly. The morning passed rather lively, though as 
 many natives with their wares were permitted to come aboard, and 
 they did a land office business, as the people seemed so eager to buy 
 that they kept the prices up, and many paid three and four times 
 what they would have gotten the article for otherwise, had they not 
 seemed so greedy for the wares. They got from one to two pounds 
 for silver shawls that you could afterwards have gotten on the streets 
 of Cairo for from one quarter to one half a pound. Lunches had 
 been made up for us to take with us on the cars but we were delay- 
 ed; so long that they had! luncheon in the dining rooms on board the 
 ship. This was where I left the ship not to return to it again, al- 
 though I did see it again at Port Said on my way to Jerusalem and 
 also in New York harbor, it coming out as we were coming in, on my 
 way home. I was sorry to part from the many friends I had made 
 but eager for new scenes to come as I was going with a small party 
 
112 
 
 through the Holy Land and Turkey and Greece and from thence on by 
 myself around through Europe for two months and home. 
 
 We finally were landed on f latb oats pulled by a tug and docked at 
 the railroad station where we immediately took the special train for 
 Cairo. The town of Suez is not large, and very modern and con- 
 tains nothing interesting at all. The Cleveland started through the ca- 
 nal, it being the largest boat that had ever gone through, and it took 
 a day and a half to make the eighty eight miles, having to go very 
 slow on account of the wash and to give all boats a chance to get 
 out of her way, as nothing else could pass her except at the lake turn- 
 outs. 
 
 The cars on the Egyptian railroad are the regular European com 
 partment corridor cars with seating capacity for six in each com- 
 partment and were fairly comfortable. The distance to Cairo was 
 one hundred and seventy miles and we reached there about five o'clock 
 
 n oa j i 
 
113 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 CAIRO. 
 
 The riae to Cairo was for some distance through the Sahara desert 
 and was hot and terribly dusty. We saw many camels that seemed 
 to be grazing on this sandy waste, on what 1 could not see or find 
 out. This sort of country continued for some time when it finally 
 began to improve as our train turned eastward and approached the 
 Nile delta and the irrigation canals began to make their appearance 
 it seemed to be very singular to look across this flat ground and 
 see huge sails rise apparently right out of the ground, the water and 
 the body of the boat being indistinguishable as they passed along 
 these canals. Many miles before we reached Cairo we passed thro- 
 ugh some of the most fe r tile country the world has ever seen, here 
 two and three crops a year are raised and good ones to, and all in 
 the primitive fashion of thousands of years ago with wooden plows 
 and hoes, the threshing of grain by cattle tramping it out and then 
 he throwing it up into the air for the chaff to blow away. The water 
 buffaloes, donkeys, and camel train with the picturesque costumes of 
 the natives made a very interesting sight. Everything can be raised on 
 this soil, it is said to be! worth seven to eight hundred dollars an a- 
 cre for just farming purposes. Water was pumped from the ditches 
 over the fields by aid of the slow moving cow or donkey, going around 
 in a circle , and even sometimes the camel was pressed into service 
 to raise the water over the lands . There was a peculiar machine no- 
 I leed worked by the men and boys, a sort of an Archimedes screw. 
 Sometimes even a well bucket and sweep was used but nowhere the 
 modern engine. All this sort of strange panorama was passing rapid- 
 ly before our eyes and made a strange and interesting picture that 
 one hated to miss so that you soon forgot the discomforts of the fine 
 sand that filled everything the forepart of the journey. 
 
 We arrived in Cairo about half past four o'clock and a few of us 
 constituting the first Palestine party who were to leave Cairo ear- 
 lier than the rest immediately took carriages and started out sight see- 
 ing with a native dragoman, the name for a guide or director in 
 that country. He was a very good one, well posted on what he had 
 to do, we first visited one of the most representative mosques of 
 the city which had a beautifully finished interior and contained 
 some tombs, the names of whom I have forgotten now. 
 
 It is called the Sultan Hassan Mosque, is near the Citadel and is 
 of vast dimensions, with a massive gateway, and is a most conspicious 
 .'andmark in the city. Several times it has been used as a fortress, 
 in evidence of which we saw lodged in the outer walls some cannon 
 balls which the French had fired from the CitadeL This mosque is 
 
■ill 
 
 the great national monument of Cairo, and was built at an expense 
 of about sixty million piastres. There are a great many workmen 
 repairing parts of it at the present time. 
 
 We went next to the Citadel on she heights and just at sunset 
 where we got a fine panoramic view of the city, with the pyramids 
 in the distance surrounded by the desert and the many hundreds of 
 miaarets from the many mosques dotting the city view like f ancy gi- 
 gantic candles, it made a very pretty and interesting sight and one 
 which we enjoyed for some little time with our field glasses, some- 
 thing which I advise everybody to carry a good pair whenever they 
 go on a trip of this kind. 
 
 I might also mention here before I forget it, to take along with 
 you also a small anueroid barometer, a good compass and a small 
 but reliable thermometer, if you do not you will wish for them many 
 times. Do not take cameras with complicated shutters, they are a 
 nuisance and will often fail you just at times when you wish them 
 the worst. A small neat No. 1 A Eastman Folding Pocket Kodak with 
 a very fine lens, get the best and leave on it the ordinary shutter, 
 and you will have something that is always there when you need it, 
 the fine lens will give you sharp prints that can easily be enlarged 
 if you wish, and make good pictures Many of the fine shutters on the 
 various Kodaks on the ship went all to the bad in the warmer cli- 
 mates, while those who had the simple cameras and shutters ob- 
 tained good exposures at nearly any time they wished, and the op- 
 portunities on these trips only comes once at a time and that is the 
 last of them. 
 
 The most beautiful mosque in Cairo is the one in this citadel, be- 
 ing of alabaster and finely decorated, but not the handsome carving 
 and inlaying that was found in the mosques in India. 
 
 We after visiting the citadel returned to the hotel which had 
 been assigned to us while in Cairo, about all the party being 
 assigned to either the Continental or the Shepards, the two best ho- 
 tels in the city of any size at all, they had been kept open especially 
 for our party, as it was late for the regular Cairo season. These 
 hotels are very good, have nice rooms, and gave us good meals, 
 though the service was not quite as good as it might be. 
 
 In the evening I started out with a couple of friends to take 
 a stroll through the city, for Cairo is at both its best and worst at 
 night. It can only lay the claim to being the most thoroughly de- 
 praved and wicked city on the earth for its size, it is said to con- 
 tain about a million inhabitants and although Egypt is under Brit- 
 ish control the French influence predominates everywhere and is 
 to be seen in the preponderance of French names and the use of 
 the French language. The sidewalks and even the streets in front 
 of the cafes are filled with tables like in Paris, and they are a great 
 place for the men to congregate in the evenings to smoke, drink and 
 visit and play games, the one game you see the most of being backgam- 
 mon. 
 
 We were accosted on every side in our walk about the city by 
 an army of dragomen to go and visit the "Hootchy-kootchy" dance, 
 the dance with naked women, and would suggest to you all sorts of 
 vileness or indecency that could possibly be thought of. Abandoned 
 women walk the streets and accost you, but they are mostly in the 
 
115 
 
 doorways or on the second story balconies of the principal public 
 streets of the town half dressed, and call down to you to come up. 
 Possibly there are some places as bad in American cities, such as 
 New Orleans, but it is not flouted to such an extent on the streets 
 and especially the main ones, as here in Cairo, It may be possible 
 that they have sunken to much lower depths of depravity here 
 than elsewhere, which would accox nt for the flaunting of it in your 
 
 f RCGS 
 
 One of the worst things that strikes you in Cairo besides this 
 depravity, and one you are sorely tempted to strike and often I did, 
 was the horde of dragomen and peddlers of all kinds, and their 
 persistency and impudence and insolence is something beyond the 
 imagination, that it often took a hard cuff to make them let you 
 alone. There seem to be hundreds of thousands of them, and of all 
 ages and condition. The little fellows are amusing with their impu- 
 dence and their quickness and cleverness, but the men are the 
 limit and so insufferably insolent when they find they cannot work 
 you that you often longed to hit them with a club. They are a ly- 
 ing, cheating, pestiferous lot, but at that they are an improvement 
 over the dispirited Hindoos. They are sharp at repartee and some- 
 times made you laugh at them despite the annoyance they caused 
 you, giving you many of the latest versions of New York and London 
 slang in their answers or remarks. 
 
 A man will ask ten piastres for a string of beads and when you 
 offer him two he will with a disdainful look say, here take it for 
 nothing I don't need the money, but he will finish in a few seconds 
 by taking the two, and he would have taken even less if you had 
 of stuck out long enough. They will start out by asking you twen- 
 ty-five piastres for a scarab and finally sell it to you for one pias- 
 tre if you got patience to wait awhile and business is bad, and even 
 at that you are not getting the worth of your money. 
 
 I will relate here that the Turkish money or unit is a piastre 
 which is about five cents, twenty of them make what they call a Medji 
 die or turkish dollar, and the paistre is divided into Milhemes 
 ten of them making an piastre. But all sorts of gold was taken in Cairo 
 and the French and English silver was readily taken every place, and 
 money changers abounded who tookany sort of money you had and 
 changed it for you at a cost of about one or two per cent. 
 
 These scarabs ace made here by the ton and cost about 25 cents 
 a thousand at the factory, and the imitation is often as good as the 
 real one, so it takes experts to tell them. Scarabs are images of 
 a beetle which the ancient Egyptians held as symbolical of the mys- 
 tery of life; they were put in large quantities in the graves with the 
 mummies and that is where the old real ones come from and from 
 the designs of which the copies are made. They are generally made 
 of stone of some kind or other and many are made of gold and silver 
 and in fact there is no material found in ancient Egypt of which 
 they were not made, in the museum beautiful rubies and emeralds 
 were found that were carved into scarabs. They have some symbol 
 of different natures carved on the bottom of them, and many of these 
 hieroglyphics found on them have helped solve some of the ancient 
 problems. 
 
116 
 
 The flies are worse there than anyone can believe, our flies in the 
 fall here are sometimes rather persistent but they are angels along 
 side of the Egyptian fly. No bluff you make in their direction will 
 drive them away and you soon learn to account for seeing the men 
 carrying around all sorts of fly brushes made of principally white 
 horse hair with ivory handles, and the cheaper ones of split palm 
 leaves. You soon purchased one for yourself as they would not leave 
 until struck and brushed off by this fly brush, and they let you know 
 they were doing business at the same old stand until you did use 
 strong measures and language both. Ones disgust with them is intensifi- 
 ed into terror and dread by the fact that theyspread the terrible 
 eye disease which is one of the afflictions of Egypt. As you go 
 along the street you will pass half a dozen men in succession who 
 have or have hadsomething the matter with their eyes, and it seems 
 to be as though fifteen or twenty per cent of the people have lost 
 one eye or both, You pass the babies and children afflicted with the 
 disease and even the pity you feel feel for the poor little things is 
 submerged into disgust until you are almost nauseated when you see 
 the flies swarming on them and making black patches where the 
 eyes should be and where they rest undisturbed. 
 
 When I landed in Cairo we found so many of the Moslems wear- 
 ing the red fez's like the Shriners in this country, that I immediately 
 purchased one and finding them so light and comfortable, and they 
 stayed on your head so well under all conditions that I wore it almost 
 constantly from that time until I landed in Italy three weeks later. 
 It made some of the Moslems look a little, and many of the dragomen 
 and guides dubbed me Pasha both here and in Turkey. 
 
 They have a different) , way of carrying babies from anything I had 
 seen previous. In Japan the baby is carried by the men, women, and 
 children, sometimes the child is hardly as large as the baby that it 
 carries, it is carried in a sort of a pocket on the back in the loose 
 garment that is worn. In China it is carried in a sort of a sling with 
 the legs straddling the back and the arms around the neck. In India 
 they set the baby astride one or the other of the hips, either holding- 
 it or fastened with a strip of cloth loosely tied around the waist. In 
 Egypt the baby is seated astride one or the other shoulder with 
 the legs hanging down front and back of the carrier. 
 
 They have good horses in Cairo as a mode of conveyance as well 
 as the favorite donkey and the camel. The flower gardens in some- 
 parts of the city were very beautiful, especially the roses, which 
 were of a very luxuriant growth and the acacia tree with its pur- 
 ple blooms was a close rival with the beautiful flame of the forest 
 tree in India for massive flower splendor. The donkey boys are the 
 whole show though, and the methods they use is often very laugha- 
 ble. The names of the donkeys changes with the nationality of the 
 visitor. If an Englishman happens to come along the boy will op- 
 purtune him to ride his donkey "Him fine donkey him name King 
 Edward" the next day it happens to be an American who the boy 
 wishes to get for a customer and his donkey is a fine one and "him 
 name President Roosevelt" one of the funny things though was one 
 of the boys said his donkey's name was Susan B. Anthony "Him fine 
 donkey try him". When riding the you sit far back right over the 
 
117 
 
 hind quarters and the feeling is a very funny one, especially when 
 they make them trot or gallop though you soon learn how to stick 
 on. 
 
 We took carriages and drove out to the pyramids Saturday morn- 
 ing, they being about five miles out, and the carriages stop at the 
 foot of the hill on which the pyramids stand, the drivers being in 
 league with the donkey, and camel men, and as it is quite a distance 
 to the pyramids in a sandy walk and the wish to try some of the other 
 modes of conveyances made you decide to try one. I chose the 
 camel and after a couple of free fights among the camel men as to 
 who would get you and the price you were to pay; which you should 
 always set before hand, and which in ordinary times is one shilling, 
 but with a crowd you can hardly get for less than two shillings thou- 
 
 ugh they will ask you from four to eight; the camel is made to kneel 
 
 and you climb on, then the sensation begins, first he rears up behind 
 and unless you brace yourself and lean away back you go off over his 
 head, then he rears up in front andif you do not look carefully you 
 will go over backwards. I set astride, at first and tried to get used to 
 the ungainly motion, as in a short distance you would feel as though 
 you were being jerked to pieces, until you learned to move your 
 body in unison with his gait then it was easier but even I became 
 
 a little stiff and uncomfortable, so watching around I noticed one 
 of the camel boys riding with his legs crossed in front on top of the 
 camel and I tried! that, found thd motion, soon saw that was the easy 
 
 way to ride. After you had gone up the bill a piece some outsider 
 came along and wish to tell you something and act as guide and 
 slick to you like a leach and insist on pay though you told him to get 
 out, until you felt like hitting him a clout, then the camel men would 
 stop and say that was all thefurther they were to take you for that 
 
 money and want more, and I threatened to kill the whole crew of 
 them unless they went on, before I finally got them to take me the 
 rest of the ride to the Sphinx and back. 
 
 The' pyramids impressed one with their great majesty rising out of 
 that sand desert to the great height and their great size and the 
 size of the stones that composed them. You know what they look 
 like but unless you have actually seen them you have no idea of the 
 magnitude of the former, and the mysterious charm of the latter, 
 than the flavor of some delightful confection from having looked at 
 it, or rather a picture of it. There are three of the great pyramids, the 
 largest being built by Cheops, who ruled Egypt nearly six thousand 
 years ago. It is not alone 1 the! hoary antiquity of these marvelous 
 works of man that impress one nor their massiveness to a degree; it 
 is the thought of the civilization which they symbolize, of the re- 
 ligion and art and the glory of the people who carried forward to com- 
 pleton a task so stupendous in days when all work by strength a- 
 lone and without the appliances on which modern builders rely. The 
 pyramids are much rougher in appearance than one expects. They 
 are like a huge flight of steps of rough stones of irregular size and 
 originally the steps were filled in and the whole pyramid presented 
 a smooth surface covered with strange carvings and paintings. There 
 were also stone gateways and precincts, but these have disappeared 
 ami i,he pyramids stand solid amid tan desert sands. The Cheops pyr- 
 
118 
 
 amid which is the largest covers 10 acres and is 451 feet high. The 
 irregular blocks of stone which it is built are from two to three feet 
 in height. It is a solid mass of stone und hardly conceivable that 
 the.se great blocks of stone could have been placed in position by 
 sheer human strength unaided by the. devices of the present times. 
 
 The interior of the pyramid is rather a tiresome trip to explore 
 but interesting to an extent. Providing yourself with candles you 
 climb tht north side of the pyramid some distance from the bottom to 
 an entrance from which point you make a rapid descent into the inter- 
 ior sort.e ways below the surface, followed alter by a long siege of 
 climbing along the slippery stones tiuough the great gallery up to the 
 King's Chamber or tomb. Here half way to the top inside is a room 
 thirty- four feet long, seventeen feet wide, and nineteen feet high. 
 Keystones are used in these days to support roofs of modern rocks; 
 but here a perfect flat roof of huge horizontal blocks of granite, so 
 closely fitted that you could not detect the slightest opening between 
 them. 
 
 I did not climb the pyramid on account of the lack of time and al- 
 so the lack of inclination, principally the latter. But for those who 
 wish to there is a fine view and makes you realize more than ever 
 the immensity of them, one party said after doing the job he "just 
 couldn't make his legs behave". 
 
 Many writers are disappointed in the Sphinx they do not seem to 
 be impressed with it from what they say about it. I was not disap- 
 pointed and I found it really more than I expected, possibly aided 
 somewhat by Dr. Phillips talk on it before we had reached Cairo, 
 size has nothing to do with the impression the sphinx makes and 
 it is really greatly dwarfed by the great pyramids along side but it 
 is really large and would be quite a wonder elsewhere as it is 190 
 feet long and 65 feet high and is carved out of a single block of stone 
 with supplementary masonry. Its impressiveness lies not in the mag- 
 nitude, although in size it is not disappointing but in the attributes 
 with one's imagination invests it, and the inscrutable mystery which 
 compells one to climb the sand hill in front of it and try to see 
 what it has been gazing at through centuries across the river to the 
 desert beyond. It is a wonderful thing and grows upon you with 
 time and the mystery of the dead civilization which it represents and 
 recalls. 
 
 Dr. Phillips of Binghampton N. Y. whose lectures and talks and ser- 
 mons on the cruise have been one of the most delightful and profita- 
 ble features of the cruise, in his lecture on Cairo spoke of two ways 
 in which man might express his sense that God could not be imag- 
 ined; Either by symbolizing him no where or by symbolizing him 
 everywhere and continued: 
 
 "Herein lies the meaning of the Sphinx, or, if you please, the 
 answer to the riddle of the Sphinx. This gigantic, mysterious figure, 
 of unknown origin, older than the oldest pyramid, carved out of solid 
 rock, supplemented with some masonry, stands on the edge of the 
 great Libyan desert facing the east. It is about 65 feet in height and 
 190 feet in length. For unaccounted centuries it was almost, or en- 
 tirely, buried under the Egyptian sands. Beneath it is a beautiful 
 temple whose entrance is between the extended paws of the great fig- 
 
119 
 
 ure. Like the great pyramid, this magnificient monster was once 
 covered with red granite, highly polished, thai would shine like a 
 mirror under the beams of the eastern sun. 
 
 The granite facing has been lorn away from botn the pyramid 
 and sphinx and built into the splendid palaces and mosques of Cairo. 
 That wonderful face which has gazed across the fiery sands of the 
 deseri for unknown thousands of years, marking the coming and go- 
 ing of '"very historical empire, although worn by time, scarred by the 
 wind driven sand that has beaten upon it and mutilated both by the 
 moslem fanatic and the modern relic hunter, still impress any be- 
 holder with its singular expression of thoughtfulness and dignity, of 
 solemnity and majesty. 
 
 Ever since modern man has stood in this August presence he 
 lias been asking, "What does it mean? Why was it built? What is 
 the significance of this colossal wonder? It may sound like an un- 
 pardonable presumption; my claim may appear like an unsubstantial 
 monument of colossal egotism, but I firmly believe that one day as I 
 sat on the extended paw of the great image, I caught, in outline 
 at least, the answer to the riddle of the sphinx. And may I say that 
 while my answer has been submit Led to archaeological societies and 
 interested individuals in both America and Europe, its essential claim 
 has never been denied or seriously questioned. Into matters of detail 
 I cannot go in this lecture, but I confidently believe, and can sup- 
 port my belief with some show of reason, that the sphinx was intend- 
 ed as the great hieroglyphic of Egypt's belief in the unity and im- 
 manence of God, the supreme symbol of their monotheistic faith. In 
 (his figure you have the face of a man with the serpent upon the 
 I he body of a lion, the wings of a bird, and the scale of a fish; every 
 expression of sentient life; man, forehead, the breasts of a woman 
 male and female, beasts, birds, fish, and reptile; the result is not a 
 monstrosity. 
 
 Unity is there, and the unit is life, and God is life. He is the in- 
 visible bond that unites into one the various species of the creation. 
 They are all sharers in one life; they all manifest the one God. He 
 dwells in them all. In Him they all live and move and have being. 
 The Sphinx was not intended to image God, it was not an object of 
 image worship, but a sublime symbol of the One Great Mystery of 
 Life everywhere apparent, nowhere seen, by nobody understood, but 
 worshiped by the Egyptians as the one self existent, creating uni- 
 fying, sustaining power of the uni verse under the ineffable name of 
 H. T. R. The spirit of life. Without any reasonable doubt it was 
 this faith that the Egyptian tried to express in all his great religious 
 symbols. He saw God everywhere, in the heaven, in the earth, in the 
 land, in the water, in man, in animal, in all." s 
 
 We next visited the New Musem and it is well worth some time 
 spent there for its enormous collection of the ancient history of Egypt 
 in relics of all sorts and kinds that have been recovered from their 
 burial of centuries. The Tombs of the Caliphs and also the Tombs of 
 the Mamelukes were visited and have some interest but not strong. 
 Following the beaten tracks of tourists the one original Coptic Church 
 which is the most, fjamous one on account of the tradition that in 
 its crypt away under ground Mary and Jesus rested in their flight in 
 
120 
 
 Lo Egypt from persecution of Herod. It is difficult to find the Coptic 
 Churches, since they are hidden away in obscure corners, and there 
 is no tapering spires or Gothic lowers to indicate their location. 
 In these churches there are no seats, worshipers sit or stand, there 
 i ■ • ao decorations. In one compartment there is a well containing 
 holy water which, on Thursday of Holy week, the priest performs 
 Lhe ceremony of washing the ijeet of the congregation. 
 
 We next visited the pretty little Isle of Pdioda in the bosom of 
 the Nile. It is frequented by native pleasure seekers who cross on 
 a little ferry that looks as if it was the same one used in the time 
 i »f Moses, it being on this Isle that Moses was supposed to have been 
 found by Pharoh's daughter. On the southern end of the Island are 
 two Nileometers, one being new ami the other very old. They are 
 used to get the accurate height of the Nile at all times of the year. 
 The old one is the octagonalcolumnof red granite rising thirty feet 
 from the bottom of a circular well. The other is embedded in a stone 
 wall that stands on the edge of the stream. 
 
 The picture of the street sprinkler that is found in the mural dec- 
 orations of tombs three thousand years old, is represented in the sa- 
 me life of today, with their water bags made of goat skins with the 
 openings tied up. 
 
 The snake charmer and trained monkey boys arq a familiar sight 
 everywhere. The camel and the donkey were often seen hitched to- 
 gether as a team pulling a wagon or a plow. The lemonade vendor 
 with his huge brass tank\ on his back! and all the spigots and para- 
 phanelia to make any sort of a drink on tap, the clacking noise with 
 which ho announced his coming, all tended to make him an interest- 
 ing sight. 
 
 There are said to be between three and five hundred mosques in 
 Cairo, but many of them are in ruins, as they are very generally 
 never repaired, but anew one built instead by the rich Mohammedan, 
 which is regarded as an act of piety. The Copts are a Christian 
 sec;t. The coffee served is as described by some one, thick as night, 
 sweet as love, and black as hell, it is very strong and is served in 
 tiny cups, it is good though; and I liked it very much. 
 
 There are many interesting points to visit surrounding Cairo but 
 time (was short and on Sunday our party left for Port Said to take 
 the boat to go to Jaffa. Port Said at the Mediterranean end of 
 the Suez canal is said to be without a doubt the most cosmopolitian 
 and most wicked city in the world where life is not held to be worth 
 a pinch of salt. The Cleveland lay alongside the dock to await the pas- 
 sengers who were going on it, who would come down on Monday. They 
 sailed from there arriving in Naples in three days. The last Travellers 
 Club meeting; was held before reaching Naples. The fancy dress ball 
 was a great success. The Cleveland stayed at Naples one day and 
 about four hundred passengers left the ship there for their different 
 tours through Europe. A one days visit was made to the points of 
 interest around Naples, when the ship pulled out for Gibraltar, the 
 next stop, there were about twenty left for a trip through Spain. The 
 next stop was Southampton when 1G0 more took the S. S. America for 
 New York and home. A few went with the Cleveland around to Ham- 
 burg? from which place the Cleveland resumed her regular Atlantic 
 trips. 
 
121 
 
 The Suez canal carries an enormous amount of shipping and is 
 a great paying investment though the builder died a pauper, but at 
 the .Port Said entrance stands a fine bronze monument of DeLesseps 
 the man whosq brain devised and carried through this great project; 
 though to-day the Panama Canal is much larger and a much more dif- 
 ficult engineering problem, still he also was the first to make plans 
 for that one, but died a pauper through bad financiering. It cost our 
 vessel a toll of nearly thirty thousand dollars for the goin# through 
 Suez and would have cost two dollars per head more if the passen- 
 gers had been taken through on it but we left it at Suez and came 
 back to it at Port Said. 
 
 High signal posts at regular intervals are a part of a block sys- 
 tem which greatly facilitates travel and makes possible the travelling 
 of ships by night. Though the majority of the stock is owned by the 
 -British, the control is in Fre)ich hands and they certainly harvest 
 it for all it is worth, there are said to be a hundred employees on the 
 pay roll, all French of course, who could not even tell you where the 
 canal is located. Despite all this it still pays very large dividends. 
 
 Dredges are being kept continually al work widening and deepen 
 ing the canal. 
 
 As I left the Cleveland' party' at Cairo I will append a list of 
 the Travellers Club meetings, and also of the Lectures that were 
 held, together with the dates, subjects, and the presiding officers, or 
 lecturers. 
 
 (The Passenger and other lists appear at end.) 
 
 TRAYELLERS CLUB. 
 
 
 Date. 
 
 Subject 
 
 Chairman. 
 
 Feb. 
 
 14th. 
 
 Honolulu 
 
 D. E. Lorenz 
 
 Mar. 
 
 4th, 
 
 Yokohoma, Tokio, Nikko 
 
 
 
 
 and vicinity, 
 
 Prof. Trueblood 
 
 Mar. 
 
 9th, 
 
 Kobe, Osaka, & Kioto, 
 
 M. P. McRae 
 
 Mar. 
 
 19th, 
 
 China, 
 
 D. W. Smouse 
 
 Mar. 
 
 23rd, 
 
 Manila, 
 
 Thos. Uzzell, 
 
 Apr. 
 
 1st, 
 
 Borneo, Java, Singapore, 
 
 L. A. Sherman. 
 
 Apr., 
 
 7th, 
 
 Burma, 
 
 E. W. Edwards, 
 
 Apr. 
 
 15th, 
 
 Calcutta, Darjeeling and 
 
 
 
 
 Benares, 
 
 C. D. Clark, 
 
 Apr. 
 
 29th, 
 
 Ceylon, 
 
 D. E. Lorenz. 
 
 May 
 
 3rd, 
 
 India, 
 
 Wm. A. Jones, 
 
 May 
 
 5th, 
 
 Western India, 
 
 F. J. Howell, 
 
 May 
 
 10 th, 
 
 Egypt 
 LECTURES. 
 
 A. A. Crane. 
 
 Feb. 
 
 9th. 
 
 Honolulu, 
 
 Lorenz, 
 
 Feb. 
 
 18th, 
 
 Japan, 
 
 Greenfield, 
 
 Feb. 
 
 23rd, 
 
 China, 
 
 Trueblood, 
 
 Mar. 
 
 14th, 
 
 Manila, Java & Borneo, 
 
 Lorenz, 
 
 Mar. 
 
 2ith, 
 
 Singapore i Rangoon, 
 
 Phillips, 
 
 Apr. 
 
 8th, 
 
 India, 
 
 Phillips, 
 
122 
 
 Apr. 16th, 
 May 2nd, 
 
 Feb. 15th, 
 Apr. 30th, 
 Feb. 22nd, 
 May 4th, 
 
 Ceylon, 
 Cairo and Naples, 
 
 OTHER LECTURES. 
 
 Illustrated Passion play. 
 Trees, 
 Washington's Birthday, 
 Adventure Meeting. 
 
 Phillips, 
 Phillips, 
 
 F. W. Schofield 
 Jno. T. Withers, 
 
123 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 JERUSALEM. 
 
 Our small party of ten sailed from Port Said about 5 P. M., Sun- 
 day, May 8th for a one hundred and twenty mile ride to Jaffa, 
 the'port for Jerusalem. The boat as named the Minieh and seemed 
 small to us after the large Cleveland, Before we were out} on the 
 Mediterranean very long she was bouncing along like a cork and in 
 a short time some of the party were rather indisposed and went 
 to their berths early and stayed there until we dropped anchor off 
 the port of Jaffa. Jaffa was all it has been pictured in the Bible 
 and othor places, with its rocky coast and treacherous breakers 
 and we were all very much interested with the way the boatmen 
 handled their little boats in the high sea that was running. There 
 were many of them all trying to gain points of advantage to be) 
 the first on board after the health officers were through as all of 
 I hem were runners for hotels or tourists bureaus and after they got 
 on board the fun began, at first words, then blows, and soon knives 
 were drawn and we who had safely ensconsed ourselves on the upper 
 .leek looked down with both fear and amusement. The way the 
 thing was handled after a little blood was drawn, the Captain blew 
 liis whistle for the police boat, a; few of them, and a couple of the 
 real turbulent ones were thrown off the ship, and the excitement cool- 
 ed down, and then began the difficult task of trying to get in the 
 small boats from the small gangway, one minute the boat would be 
 three feet below the gangway and the next two feet above, and it 
 required a great deal of dexterity to keep the boats from being smash 
 ed against the steps and ship. Twobig husky fellows grabbed you bod- 
 ily and lifted you into the boat where you sat down unceremonious- 
 ly and the next minute a wave, would come along the ship and give 
 you a good bath that was not down on the bill of fare. We finally 
 got loaded and turned for the shore having to go around the treach- 
 erous rocks that poked their ugly looking heads out of the sea and 
 soon got behind them into a small breakwater, where we landed at 
 the little quay, had our baggage passed and started under the guid- 
 ance of a native to see the few points of interest in Jaffa, prepara- 
 tory to lunching at noon at the little Hotel Park and taking the two 
 o'clock train for Jerusalem. Jaffa at one time an important place 
 gradually fell into decay, but in the last decadle has taken on great 
 strides and growinjg very rapidly so that there were many new build- 
 in'gs in the place, but still enough of the" old and historic to interest 
 you for a time. 
 
 The identical jagged reef which we passed around and which we 
 
124 
 
 caniei through when we weire going out is the one that is poinded out, 
 l hat Andromeda was chained to one of the rocks, and from which she 
 was released by Perseus whose prowess is commemorated by one of 
 the most brilliant constellations in the sky. Jaffa was the port at 
 which was landed the Cedar of Lebanon sent by Hiram King* of Tyre 
 to Jerusalem for the building' of King Solomon's temple. It was al- 
 so from this port that Jonah was said to have sailed on the; famous 
 voyage which he concluded in the belly of the whale. 
 
 The town contains about forty thousand inhabitants, now ship- 
 ping a great many oranges, of which the town is surrounded with 
 numerous groves. Jaffa, Yaffa, Joppa, and Japha are the 1 names 
 the town has mostly had, the first being 1 the one used at the present 
 time. According to Pliny it is said to have existed before the Flood 
 and is named after Japhet one of the sons of Noah. The Moslem 
 cemetery is one of the places of interest and amusement in the place 
 the' funniest thing being a group <if professional praying men who 
 will recite the Koran at the rate of five cents a chapter. 
 
 There are several infirmaries, hospitals, etc, ran by different de- 
 nominations for the benefit of all, as well as several schools run 
 under foreign sources. There is much of interest around Jaffa but 
 lack of time prevented us seeing it. i n earlier days it was the cus- 
 tom to come to Jaffa hire a dragoman of which there are several 
 good ones, and who will for a consideration of about five dollars a 
 day apiece will take all the expense and trouble from you and drive, 
 ride, and camp all over the whole country which makes it the most 
 interesting and best way to see the country. 
 
 The trip by train which is a narrow guage road is made in about 
 lour hours from Jaffa to Jersualein though the distance is only fifty 
 two miles miles by rail, and thirty six by road. Some very steep 
 grades are climbed and some parts of the country are very fertile and 
 others extremely barren. 
 
 The road for the first twenty miilas runs through the rich plains 
 on which the Philistines lived, and where today the cow and donkey 
 are hitched together to the plow and camels are also seen pulling the 
 plow as! well' as doing (the burden bearing. The land remains fertile 
 to the mountains a distance of about twenty miles, then the train climbs 
 up into the most rocky country you have likely ever seen. This part 
 of the (journey is also over historicground, all of it having been trod- 
 den by Samson, and you pass by places that the guides tell you was 
 where he was born, where he lived, where he was buried, and many 
 other items long forgotten. The site of the ancient city of Gezer is 
 passed where so much has been discovered of late by the Palestine Ex- 
 ploration Fund, there being, it is said, seven cities one on top of the 
 other, each representing a different civilization and down at the bot- 
 tom layer there is said to be found i J elics v of the stone ages. 
 
 The railroad was finally built by the French find is a narrow 
 L;uage with cars like street cars the rate is six cents a mile, it has fair- 
 ly good terminal depots and has been in operation about eighteen 
 years. Railroads are being built over the country in many places 
 now,; and soon Palestine will be accessable at any part with ease. 
 
 Jerusalem lies about 2600 feet 'above sea level and has a rather 
 nice climate, from there it is a rapid fall of four thousand feet to 
 
125 
 
 the Dead Sea that is about fourteen miles distant. 
 
 Jerusalem has many small hotels, but few of them beinjg any 
 good though we stopped at the Hotel Fast and eould not have had 
 nicer accommodations, and the meals were all that could be desired, es- 
 pecially the honey they gave you m the morning. There are a great 
 number of Hospices there of most of the nationalities of Europe.that 
 also gives accommodation to travelers, the persons who are able they 
 expecl to get pay from, the poor pilgrim is not charged. 
 
 The present city of Jerusalem not including the extensive suburbs 
 is enclosed by a wall varying in height from ten to seventy feet it 
 is two and a half miles in circuit and has seven gates. The present 
 walls in the main were erected by Ottoman Sutan Soliman in the year 
 1510. The gates are named Damascus Gate on the North that is con- 
 sidered the handsomest; Herod's Gate,; St. Stephen's Gate; The Gold- 
 en Gate, not now in use; The Dung Gate; The Gate of Zion;; The Jaffa 
 Gate and now the recently opened gate at the North West Angle of 
 the city 
 
 Jerusalem at one time said to have a million population in the 
 heyday of her glory about the time of King Solomon now has about 
 fifty eight thousand people of whom eight thousand are priests of the 
 different sects who live off these poor people. 
 
 Most of the foreign population live outside of the walls of the city 
 with the' exceptions of the occupants of the Hospice, that are loca- 
 ted inside the city, and the feNv foreign priests and monks. 
 
 The original mounts on which Jerusalem is builded spoken of in 
 the Bible, such as Mount Moriah (on which the temple was located) 
 Mount Acra (on which was the lower city) and Mount Zion have all 
 had the valleys between them nearly lev-'ed up, filled with tn<-. de- 
 bris of the ruin of ancimt t-me? aB one* place our guide said the 
 ruins extended one hundred and fifty feet deep. Jerusalem has 
 benn rebuilt and destroyed many many times in the ancient past 
 and so many walls built and destroyed that it is hard to say. where 
 the original wall is, and which now helps to make the controversy as 
 ! » where Calvary originally was, thcile being another hill just out- 
 i ! ' [ho Damascus gate called Bezetha in which is the cave of Jere- 
 miah and which rocky top is supposedby many to be the real Calvary, 
 it being outside the present wallsi of Jerusalem. But just lately in 
 excavating for another Hospice there was run across what is surely 
 -.aid in be "- -> old wall of Jerusalem of the Christian era which would 
 leave the present Calvary outside of the walls of the old city, though 
 it is inside the walls of the present city, which helps the present loca- 
 tion and controversy as to the real Calvary. 
 
 There are so many thir/gs to interest one of aii sort,-*, that you 
 could write a dozen books on Jersualem. Opposite this Bezetha Hill 
 down aways from Damascus Gate is the entrance to King Solomon's 
 quarries into Which a few of us went one night. About 30 years 
 ago a man was hunting and his dog chased a rablbit into some bushes 
 at the base of the walls. He waited a few minutes and no dog ap- 
 peared, he started to hunt for him and discovered an opening that has 
 been hidden for centuries as it is supposed, and after getting aid 
 and some lights went into this cave and there discovered evidence 
 of the handiwork of man in an extensive underground quarry, as all 
 around were cut blocks of marble of a beautiful fine grain, and on 
 the walls of this cave were some of the blocks not all having been 
 
\ 126 
 
 cut out, while standing in the wall to be later chiseled off from the 
 hack and taken down. Many were keystones. The cave seems to ex- 
 .' end in for about one third of a mile in some places, having had 
 material taken out that would make it over a hundred fe'et deep. It 
 is located directly under the sight of the Temple, and the stone was 
 wvidently quarried, and cut, and dressed, down under the ground, 
 and then lifted up through some well hole, not yet found, and set 
 
 in place on the walls. The marble is soft and when first taken out 
 can bo cut with a knife, but gets a little harder with exposure to 
 the- air. |it lias a peculiar glistening effect which would be dazzling 
 in the suns rays. 
 
 The south eastern corner of the wall of Jerusalem and about all 
 the eastern wall is the edge of theplate;au upon which the Temple at 
 one time stood. In the middle of the eastern side oi the temple is 
 what is known as the Golden Gate. It has been walled up, the Mo- 
 hamedans say it will not be opened until the judgement day. The 
 city walls adjoining; the temple were among the first that were built, 
 
 they are in fine condition today, some of the original foundation 
 stones are oi enormous size, one being about thirty feet long" and ten 
 feet hig'h and very thick and many nearly that large are found. The 
 plateau on which the temple stood has been made by the building up 
 of the hill with the aid of the walls to make a level space for the 
 temple to sit upon. In under will be found the stables which were 
 connected with the temple, builded and arched over with these enor- 
 mous stones, with the original holes through the pillars, which it is 
 said the Roman soldiers made to tie their horses too, and also the 
 original stone mangers from which the horses were fed. These are 
 Hiity to seventy feet below the regular plateau above, that marks the 
 level on which the temple was erected. The site of the temple cov- 
 ers a apace of about one sixth oi the whole city of Jerusalem and 
 is as cleanly as the rest off the city is dirty and contrasts agreeably 
 with the crowded squalor f the adjacent portion of the city. This 
 enclosure is called, as a whole by the Mosiems, the Haram or Holy 
 Place. Legends attached to the Sacred Stone now covered by the 
 dome of the rock and builded over this, the beautiful Mosque of Omar 
 a marvelous piece of Mohamedan architecture, show that this has 
 been the chosen spot for worship of God under one off His num - 
 berless names from earliest antiquity. 
 
 The Holy Rock itself is 57 feet long and 43 feet wide rising 6 fee! 
 ground and hovering as faithful Mohammedans assert without sup- 
 port over the cavern, which, through a hole in the mck has re- 
 ceived the blood of innumerable sacrifices in all ages; ifor here 
 Abraham warshipped, and offered sacrifices and burnt offerings, and 
 Eliah and David; Jesus an Mohammet have prayed there. The Ark 
 of the covenant is supposed to be buried below on which account no 
 Jew would venture to cross thethreshold of the Mosque of Omar, 
 least he should unwittingly profane the Holy of Holies by his tread. 
 The dome of the Rock (which js the right name fr>r the Mosque oj 
 Omar), and the Mosque El Aksa, are the two structures on the pres- 
 ent temple site. The first was built ahout 697 A. D. and has four 
 
127 
 
 doo»"s or gates leading to each poiut of the compas. ni» Duilded of 
 parts of other edifices and contains two of the pillars of the original 
 King Solomon's temple. It is beautifully decorated and has many pret- 
 ty mosaics. There is no doulit if the Turkish government would 
 permit excavation on this site, that much unknown ancient history 
 could be cleared up. The relics of the first temple may still be tra- 
 ced, it is said there is nothing at all of the second temple built by 
 the Jews on their return from captivity; while the third temple built 
 by Herod, a little still remains. 
 
 The country around is devoid of trees and shrubery, except 
 the few fruit and olive trees and fuel is an expensive article. A 
 common fuel here is charcoal, which is made mostly of olive wood. 
 The chief manufactories of" it are at Hebron, about 23 miles south 
 of Jerusalem, near the cove in which Abraham, Isaac and Jacob are 
 buried and where tradition says Adam died. Water is also scarce 
 being but a six inch rainfall each year, most of the time, and al! 
 houses have their pools drained from the roofs. The pools of Sol- 
 omon were connected with Jerusalem but the original aqueduct-. 
 were totally destroyed and only a small pipe supplies water now, 
 and that mostly to the Mosque of Omar, The poolsare hollowed out of 
 the rock and rested each one higher than the other, and had a total 
 capacity of forty million gallons. 
 
 Pools are found everywhere and many of the famous ones oE 
 the bible are still* pointed out by the dragomen. The pool of Heze- 
 kiah is right in the heart of the city close by the church of the Ho- 
 ly Sepulchre and the double pool of Bethseda near the wall ofl the 
 city has just been discovered down eighty feet deep in the ground. 
 
 The streets of Jerusalem are very peculiar, some are steep, all 
 are narrow, some are vaulted over and covered with houses. There 
 are several chief streets that are long and that distinctly bound the 
 different quarters of the city. The street leading from the Damas- 
 cus gate divides the Moslem quarter on the east from the Christian 
 quarter on the west and farther on the same thoroughfare sep- 
 arates the Jewish quarters on the east from the Armenian on the 
 west. David's Street which leads from the Jaffa gate to the site of 
 Solomon's Temple first separates the Christian on the North from 
 the Armenian on the south and later on it divides the Moslem on the 
 North from the Jewish on the south. The Via Dolorosa (the road 
 to Calvary) in its devious course from near the St. Stephens Gate 
 to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre is interesting, and mostly trav- 
 eled. It contains all the fourteen stations of the cross well defined 
 and marked. In the Hall of Judgement some excavations were made 
 a few years ago and the original pavement of the Hall was found 
 many feet below the street level of today and the pavement still 
 has the mark made by the Roman soldiers of the various games they 
 played, one of which resembles backgammon. The devious course 
 taken by Jesus marking the Via Dolorosa ends at the church of the 
 Holy Sepulchre, which is about the most interesting thing in Jerusa- 
 lem because, this building or rather collection of buildings, is over 
 the spot on which Christ is supposed to have been crucified arid bur- 
 ied. It is in fact a cluster of churches, chapels and shrines, built 
 
128 
 
 separately at different periods, but now! all covered by one roof. Un- 
 der Constantine the site of the Crucifixion of the Saviour was dili- 
 gently sought for, and it is said that on the spot which was then 
 fixed upon as the scene of the chief events of those days, a memor- 
 ial church of Byzantine splendor by his mother St. Helena. 
 
 This church had a rotunda, the plan of whose foundations can 
 still be traced. The space on the east was enclosed by colonades, 
 still further east of which was a basilica, With courts on each side, 
 three portals, a forecourt, and propylaeum, fragments of the columns 
 of which last exist to this day. Since that time, Helena's splen- 
 did and pious work has been desecrated and destroyed, rebuilt, dam- 
 aged, restored, and added to, over and over again; but still the edi- 
 fice preserves the "odor of sanctity, and is prevaded by an air of 
 great antiquity. In A. D. 1099 the Crusaders entered the Church of 
 the Holy Sepulchre, barefooted and singing songs of praise and thank- 
 fulness. They rebuilt it on a large scale, enclosing in it all the 
 adjacent shrines and chapels. Their work still stands, and is still rea- 
 dily recognizable, notwithstanding the numerous subsequent addi- 
 tions and repairs. The Greek Church has the largest posessions in 
 this most ancient of Cathed r als within which each branch of the 
 Christian faith has its own particular church, chapel, or shrine, 
 where lamps are always burning resplendently. A touching devo- 
 tion of religious faith may be observed in the humble niche posess- 
 ed by the few but faithful Egyptians representing the Coptic Church, 
 who through all temptation and peril, refused to abandon Christian- 
 ity for the new and easier faith of the dashing Saracen. 
 
 The Church of the Holy Sepulchre should be visited in the sun- 
 niest hours of the day, as much of the interior is dark and most of 
 it magnificient. Every shrine the r ein and almost every stone, has 
 been bathed with countless tears, and had received the passionate 
 kisses of hundreds of thousands of wayworn pilgrims; and whether 
 or not it is the exact spot it is believed to be, it is certain at least, 
 that it commemorates momentous events which must have taken 
 place thereabouts, and that we are in a church which has been for 
 long ages, and still is, sacred to a religious faith and hallowed by de- 
 votion and sacrifice. 
 
 In about 1050 A. D., some wealthy men of Amalfi, of Italy, which 
 was then a great commercial port, paid for a piece of ground near 
 the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, and built a house of refuge for 
 pilgrims, and dedicated it to St. John the Baptist; which laterally be- 
 came the cradle of the Knightly order of St. John of Jerusalem, 
 which grew to be an extensive organization; that fought to the last, 
 in the unsuccessful defense of St. John d ' Acre, that ended the 
 reign of the Crusaders in Palestine; thence sailed for Rhodes where 
 they built massive fortifications that are the admiration of all Eu- 
 rope, but which eventually fell to the Turks; and after they finally 
 removed to Malta, where their fortifications, palaces and cathedrals 
 still stand as monuments of magnificence, and love of art. 
 
 The religious bodies that have posession of the Church are all 
 Christian, the principal ones being the Greeks, Armenians, and the 
 Latins, and are continually at war with each other. The work of each 
 is very specifically defined in the Church, for instance the stone on 
 which Christ's body was supposed to have been washed after his re- 
 
VanWagenen 
 
 The Mosque of Omar 
 
 In the Garden of Gethsemane Under the Betrayal Tree 
 
12') 
 
 moval from the Cross, is in posession of two of them, the Greeks and 
 the Latins, and each and every Monday when they have washing day, 
 i he Moslem soldiers must be on hand to see that one does not go the 
 hairbreadth over the others domain or they will begin fighting to 
 the death, and it is that way in all parts of the Church, there as well 
 as at Bethleham; the various sections of the churches which are 
 placed under the especial ca r e ofeach of these bodies are minutely 
 measured and portioned off, with the view of minimising causes of 
 quarrel; yel more than once the question as to which party should 
 regulate the opening and shutting of a door, has well nigh plunged 
 all Europe into war. Indeed it is stated on good authority, that the 
 Crimean War really originated, in some such miserable squabble, a- 
 tnong the Christian guardians of the birthplace of Christianity. This 
 jealous petty rivalry is still strong as ever within these sacred pre- 
 cincts; outward peace being with dificulty maintained by Turkish sol 
 diers of which there are many present all the time day and night in 
 both the edifices at Jerusalem and Bethlehem, and at Christmas and 
 Raster, it takes a whole regiment of the soldiers to keep peace and 
 at that many fights occur. It wasonly a couple of years ago that one 
 branch that had part charge of the Manger set fire to it and badly 
 burned the hangings around the place where Jesus was born, before 
 peace could be brought about by the soldiers who have whips along 
 with their yuns and which they have to use often. They a r e jostling 
 scouling, and haranguing, each other incessantly, and it certainly 
 does seem strange that it has to be the Moslem soldiers, that keep 
 the peace- between the Christians, and keep them from killing each 
 other. The way the floors are marked with lines of carpet, on the 
 one side of which the others dare not step, or vice versa, though we 
 walked anywhere without anything being said or any trouble being 
 made. 
 
 A visit to Bethlehem which is about an hours drive from Jerusa- 
 lem is of interest and along the road to that place you pass Rachel's 
 tomb and David's Well and some other historic points of minor men- 
 tion. The Church of the Nativity was buiU over the Manger in 
 which Christ was born, and has passed through several sieges in 
 which Bethlehem itself was destroyed, but survived the many vicisi- 
 ludes. It is such a solid fortress like edifice of interesting architec- 
 lure and covers besides the many Churches and Chapels and Shrines, 
 three monasteries, and is regarded as the oldest piece of Christian 
 architecture extant and its escape from destruction is regarded as 
 miraculous in the older days. The town has been destroyed and re- 
 built many times, but is now a prosperous place of fifteen thousand 
 inhabitants all Christians and a r e distinguished from the surround- 
 ing peoples by their energy and intelligence and particularly by the 
 grace and beauty of the women. It is believed that these people are 
 descended from the Crusaders with an admixture of Syrian and per- 
 haps Saracen blood. The chief industries of the place are embroider- 
 ing and the carving of mother pearl which are here carried on to a 
 high pitch oi' perfection. 
 
 The roads are very rough and the carnages have to be built 
 very heavy to withstand them, and you wonder at the endurance of 
 the horses which are not very large sized, but seem to be sturdy and 
 
130 
 
 strong. 
 
 The Garden of Gethsmane is now a beautiful little flower gard- 
 en much smaller than when first occupied by Christ on that memor- 
 ial evening. It is walled in and planted full of flower beds and is 
 kept in order by several Franciscian monks. A very large and old 
 olive ?.ree stands in the one corner and is said to be the original tree, 
 in its roots that Christ stood under when betrayed by Judas. This is 
 probably tiue, as the olive tree has the faculty when a part or all of 
 ds top dies, a new shoot starts out from the same roots and grows 
 and in tb.is way continually reproducing itself, and in many places 
 trees are shown that are said to be two thousand or more years old. 
 The root base of this one is nearly ten feet across, though the tree 
 is not much more than thirty feet high. The monks will let you pick 
 flowers or take the fallen leaves but do not allow you to pick the 
 branches or leaves from the tree itsself. Hosanna Way leading to 
 the garden from Mount of Olives is extremely rocky as a road, and 
 if that way in the olden times must have been hard traveling in san- 
 dals or bare feet. On our return from Bethlehem we had a very 
 pleasant reception tendered us by Mrs. Herbert Clark, wife of the A- 
 merican Vice Consul and were served tea, delicious cakes and Turk- 
 ish delight, that delicious confectio n made of sugar and gum arabic etc 
 that is the delight of nearly every tourist to eat in those oriental 
 countries. 
 
 Mr. Herbert Clark, is a brother of Mr. Frank Clark, who got up 
 and managed our tour so successfully, he often takes out and manages 
 the Mediterranean tours for his brother; his extensive acquaintance 
 in those countries, makes it easy for tourists to get around the many 
 difficulties thrown in the way ofevery traveler. Mr. Herbert Clark's 
 house is a veritable museum of autiquities; relics of all ages, and of 
 all sorts spoken of in the Bible, being found there. 
 
 There is quite an establishment in Jerusalem, called the American 
 colony composed of about one hundred Americans who have settled 
 in Jerusalem working under the cooperative plan, and they have a 
 very fine store run under the name of Fr. Vesper & Co., i'or the ben- 
 efit of the whole colony, where all sorts of souvenirs can be purchas- 
 ed, as well as American made pastry and bread. The name of our 
 guide was William Cattan, a veryfine young Moslem, who spoke very 
 good En!g;lish, and was very well posted on Jerusalem and the sur- 
 rounding country and, deserves great credit for taking us around so 
 quickly and so thoroughly. 
 
 We after a good nights sleep, alii being tired, arose early on the morn- 
 ing of the 11th and took the train at 7.30 for the return trip to Jaffa 
 to take our steamer for the continuance of the journey northward. 
 
 The Palestine and Turkey side trip party were composed of the 
 following named persons: — Dr. and Mrs. S. G. A. Brown of Shippens 
 burg, Pa., Mrs. William E. Pearl, Miss Elsie Pearl, Mrs. J. F. Katz 
 and Mrs. Isabel R. Kimball, all of New York, Mrs. Iona Bickerton, of 
 Portland, Oregon, Dr. G A. VanWagenan, of Newark, N. J., and my- 
 self. We were accompanied by Mr. B. J. Mosalli as director. 
 
131 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 FROM JAFFA to CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 We arrived in Ja?fa near noon and departed on the S. S. Niger 
 one of the French Line in those seas, all I can say to intending trav- 
 elers is to keep away f;rom the French line, in the Mediterranean at 
 least. There was only one redeeming feature, the meals were fairly 
 good and plenty of it, but sleeping accommodations and cleanliness of 
 ship and many other minor things were very poor. The Austrian 
 Lloyd Lines are far superior. Remarking here before I forget it, 
 the Niger was sunk in the Dardanelles two days after we left her 
 at Constantinople, in a collision, (peace to her bones). 
 
 We sailed from Jaffa at noon after taking on a large cargo of 
 oranges. We reached Caifa the next stop, sixty miles north, about 
 5 o'clock in the evening. It seems to be a prosperous village with a 
 fair commerce from the surrounding country, I went on shore in the 
 evening and saw the usual moving picture and a vaudeville and toot 
 my first smoke from a genuine Turkish pipe and tobacco which is 
 rather strong, and you have to learn to smoke the pipe, not like we 
 do here, but by taking long steady draws, the smoke is cooled passing 
 through the water, so that its strength is not felt so much as if you 
 
 it direct from the tobacco. 
 
 The next morning we arose early and drove to Mt. Carmel, vis- 
 
 the Prophet Elijah's cave over which there is a fine church built 
 
 now. The spot is a beautiful one on a promotory overlooking the 
 
 d has a fine view. After coming down from the mount 1 
 
 in the village and we finally went on board the ship and sailed 
 
 for Beyrouth our next stop at ten A. M. on the 12th which port We 
 
 reached at six in the evening, but remained on the ship that night 
 
 and went ashore early the next morning. 
 
 Eeyrout or Beirut as it is spelled in that country is a fine pros- 
 s and rather progressive city of about, I should judge, sixty 
 thousand inhabitants. The large American College there, with its 
 several hundred students from all over Asia Minor, and its up to 
 date methods and teachings, have done much to modernize this city 
 which is a very interesting one, We visited the College and were 
 met by Dr. Bliss, the acting President a very fine American gentle- 
 man, who conducted us all over the institution that is really a Uni- 
 versity as it gives degrees in medicine,' law, art, chemistry, and many 
 other lines of College work, and is doing a world of good in that 
 country. It has a fine museum, a large hospital and a good library 
 
132 
 
 connected, but is somewhat hampered for funds for extension. 
 
 There is also an extensive printing plant connected with the 
 institution, to print the bibles and pamphlets in the native languai#J» 
 editors of the papers in Asia Minor are graduates of thiis institution, 
 and also many of the text books needed, and nearly all the Syrian 
 Though the Syrians like the American missionaries, they were bitterly 
 opposed by the former Sultan of Turkey, but since 1 he has been de- 
 posed great progress has been made The collejge was founded by Dr. 
 Jessup and his brother many years ago as a little school, and has 
 grown to the large proportions of the present, with fifteen buildings 
 and over a thousand students both male and female. 
 
 In regard to the school and the opposition of the old Sultan, many 
 funny things occurred, a few that I heard I will relate. The Sultan 
 was much opposed to the printingprosses and strictly censored ev- 
 erything printed, one occasion one of the dental books spoke of 
 crowning a tooth, and as he could not have the idea of anything be- 
 ing crowned but himself he ordered all the books destroyed, and 
 they had to be. Another time he objected to the printing of the old 
 testament, and the teaching of part o.f it as it mentioned the kill- 
 ing of too many kings, in one place Again they thoug lit they 
 would put telephones around the College grounds, but the, Sultan 
 heard of it, and afraid again something would be said against him he 
 would not hear, he sent word to President Roosevelt and had him 
 order them out, which was reluctantly done, though now they have 
 them. 
 
 Beirut has a fine new breakwater and a good harbor, with all 
 the modern facilities for handling freight and passengers. There is 
 a railroad leading from here to Damascus, that interesting city 
 that is still ancient and is thought to be the oldest city in the world 
 being founded by one of the sons of Noah; I would like very much 
 to have time to visit it. I enjoyedgreatly rambling around the numer 
 ous bazaars that were there, and found that prices were fairly rea- 
 sonable, though there as elsewhere some of the merchants, espec- 
 ially those that dealt with foreigners were very persistent in asking 
 you to purchase. One thing I noticed practically everywhere was 
 tha, fact that generally, the most persistent ones were those who 
 would reduce the price the lowest, to make sales. The greatest in- 
 terest to me in Beirut was the famous Forests of Lebanon, that were 
 located close to the city, and I especially wished to obtain a piece 
 of the Cedar of Lebanon, of which King Solomon's temple at Jerusalem 
 was built, as a souvenir to bring home for my Masonic Lodge. I had 
 tried to find it at Jerusalem but it was not there, and I tried all o- 
 ver Beirut and nearly gave up in despair, as the small forests that 
 are left are very carefully guarded by the Turks and none of the 
 wood allowed to be taken from there there being severe penalties at- 
 tached for so doingj. I found many varieties of cedar but none of it 
 looked right to me. While at the College I asked Dr. Bliss if he had 
 any of the real Cedar of Lebanon in his museum, and he said he had, 
 that the government had given hima small part of the trunk of a tree 
 a few years before, for that purpose, i immediately went to see it, 
 and one who has ever seen the real wood could never be mistaken 
 in it. Thus armed with certain knowledge I made a final canvas, 
 
133 
 
 and at last going into a curio store, I asked the proprietor if he did 
 not have a small piece of the real Cedar of Lebanon in his store, I 
 said he must have, that I wished a small piece, and that I would 
 take it out of the country and takegood care not to get caught with it 
 Finally after looking at me hard for a minute, he went to a small 
 closet in the back part of his place of business, and from a dark cor- 
 ner brought forth a small piece of a branch of a tree about six inch- 
 es in diameter, that I immediately recognized as the same as I had 
 s een in the museum, and purchasing a piece at a pretty stiff price I 
 departed for the ship delighted with my success, I afterwards had 
 the wood made up into gavel blocks and presented my Masonic lodges 
 with them. 
 
 We took a drive around the country which is a very pretty one, 
 and also had the great pleasure of being, lunched and entertained in 
 the private home of a well to do Armenian in that city, and thusi got 
 the insight into the home life of the better classes of that country. 
 The house was beautifully and tastefully furnished, and the daugh- 
 ters were all accomplished and at the same time industrious, every- 
 one doing some sort of embroidering, sewing or painting. The liv- 
 ing rooms of the houses in these countries are nearly always on the 
 second floor above the street, not as with us on the first floor. 
 
 We sailed at noon on Saturday the lith for a long run of 5-2 miles 
 to Smyrna, broken only by a short but intesesting stop for a couple 
 of hours at Yathey on the Island of Samos. The little town had qui. 
 a large garrison of Turkish soldiers, the island now belonging to 
 Turkey, but the population mostly Greek to which country it had be- 
 longed for several hundred years, but having a valuable landlocked 
 harbor and a very beautiful country, and so close to the entrance 
 to the Dardenelles; Turkey cast covetous eyes and in one of the wars 
 look the island as one of the fruits of the war. The town is built on 
 a semicircular hill, is thickly populated and does quite an extensive 
 commerce in wines, figs, oils, etc. The wines from this isle are quite 
 famous and are certainly delicious. 
 
 We reached Smyrna at six p. m., on Tuesday the 17th and land- 
 ing in that harbor took a drive up onto the hills and saw some very 
 interesting forts, or ruins of them rather, of the early Roman days. 
 
 i-na is a lar^e commercial port and the harbor besides the many 
 eommercial steamers, had quite a large number of war vessels of 
 many nations stationed there at that time; as there was then the 
 trouble between Turkey and Greece over the Island of Crete and war 
 was expected to break out at any time. Smyrna was the nearest port 
 of any size. Here as at Cairo the money changers took any money 
 offered them and exchanged it at a very reasonable rate. The ba- 
 zaars were also very novel, the streets being covered mostly for 
 squares where the shops were and you could see all sorts of shops and 
 small manufactories of a great variety, that were exceedingly inter- 
 esting, a description of all of them would make a small book. The 
 city streets are small and narrow and have many abrupt turns and 
 i he buildings not nearly as good as Beirut, with the exceptions of a 
 i>\v new factories and warehouse, A large garrison of Turkish sol- 
 diers is kept here at all times, and they are a well drilled and formid- 
 able looking lot of men. They dress like our soldiers in khaki with 
 
13'i 
 
 the exception tney wear the red fez's, instead of caps. 
 
 We sailed from Smyrna about 5 o'clock for a 270 mile run to Con- 
 stantinople passing into the Dardenelles, at about half that distance, 
 early in the morning and landing at Constantinople at five in the af- 
 ternoon. The boat had a great many steerage passengers on board, 
 who lived and slept on deck forward, and a motley looking lot they 
 were; but one of them had two baby bears that were very interest- 
 ing when motionless you would think they were the genuine toy Ted- 
 dy bear of the States, so perfect in looks were they, but they were 
 comical little rascals standing up and boxing each other like two 
 prize fighters would do, and doing many other funny little things tl. --t 
 provided great amusement. I fed them some Turkish delight and 
 pushed it into their mouths, and their antics were exceedingly gro- 
 tesque attempting to chew the sticky stuff, and trying to dig it out of 
 their mouths with their paws, and yet wanting to keep it, liking the 
 sweetness of that toothsome morsel. 
 
 We were quite a little time getting through the custom house, 
 some backsheesh had to be paid under the name of vising the 
 
 passport that is required, and in oter ways, but we finally were per- 
 mitted to take our cabs, and went quickly to the fine Pera Palace Ho- 
 tel, one of the International Sleeping Car Company hotels in Europe. 
 It is located on the hill on the upper side of the Golden Horn, be- 
 ing in the new part of Constantinople, the old part being called 
 Stamboul. The hotel is modern, up to date in every respect and is 
 located only a short distance from most of the new parts of the city, 
 and but a short ride by carriage from the old part. After dinner 
 we went to a vaudeville given bya troupe in French and they cer- 
 tain ly made a great many hits at the government, on the taxes prin- 
 cipally, as far as I could understand something they could not dare 
 do a couple ofi years ago under the reign of the old Sultan. The free- 
 dom the Turks seem to take and ha^e over the old times was wonder- 
 ful, and new li^e and thought could be seen everywhere. In regard 
 to taxes, everything was taxed, the theatre programes had to have 
 a stamp on them, you posted any s ort of an advertising notice in your 
 shop window, you have to have a tax stamp on it and so on. 
 
 The money we had been using since we left Cairo was the worst 
 we had tackled yet. The Turkish money was the piastre, nominally 
 five cents, but of which name very little use was made, the piastre 
 being divided up into what is called metaHiques, the general name 
 for the copper coinage, running from four to five to a piastre, what- 
 ever you cou'-'d get. Twenty piastres made a medjidie nominally sup- 
 posed to be about a dollar, but in Jerusalem it took 26 piastres for 
 a Medjidie, at Beirut 23, at Smyrna 22, and at Constantinople 20, and 
 this often fluctuated. The metalliques were ail sorts of, thin cop- 
 per stampings, they were hardly worth the name of coins, with holes 
 in them, badly mashed, dinged, and beaten, but they got the goods. 
 There were also larig|er bronze metal pieces of different sizes, there 
 being ten varieties, copper and bronze, and had nothing but Turkish 
 markings on, some were the same size as others, but worth twice as 
 much, being a slightly different kind of bronze was all, it certainly 
 was confusing. Each piece had a different name to make it worse, 
 not going by the numeral at all. The getting of change was a ter- 
 
135 
 
 ror, you never got the full' amount back that was due you as you 
 thought, and no amount of arguing would get it for you, it must be 
 the universal custom for if you gave a party a five piastre piece 
 he would only give you four and a half piastres or less hack for it. 
 If you started out with twenty dollars and changed it much, by the 
 end of the day you had lost abouttwenty to twenty-i'ive percent by 
 so doing. A short recitation of the coinage may be interesting to 
 others as it is so different from any other country. They were two 
 5 para copper pieces different sizes, two ten para, also different sizes, 
 one twenty para, one % beschlik and Yi altil'k, both the same value 
 (1 Vi piastres) one being copper and one copper bronze, as all the 
 others were but the latter named had a little silver mixed 
 with the copper. Then there was the beschlik and half altilik both 
 worth 1 l A piastres, and the altilik (5Pia.), which was the last of 
 the copper bronze pieces. The sil'ver ones were as follows: Jirmipa- 
 ralik (% Pia.), Kirkparalik (1 Pia.),EkJlik (2 Pia.), Beschlik again (5 
 Pia. , Onlik (10 Pia.), and MedJidie (20 Pia.}, a : lV of silver. Then there 
 was the Turkish pound (lOOPiastres) worth about $4.40 of gold, call- 
 ed the lira, and the following other pieces in gold, but these were 
 not often seen in Turkey in general circulation as gold is scarce 
 there. The coins were 25 Pia, 50 Pia, 100 Pia, 250 Pia, and 500 Pias- 
 tres respectively. 
 
 Most of the streets are crooked and narrow, and many in the old 
 pari of the city very dirty. Some places the bazaars occupy the en- 
 lire street, and you can hardly get through, for a couple of blocks 
 at a time. There are many Mosques of interest, also the tombs of 
 the rulers under various names, which Turkey has had for centur- 
 ies, one of which that we visited had a beautifully engrossed copy 
 ofl the Koran, and which I very reverently kissed, remembering my 
 Shriner affiliations. Another thing that interested me, in former 
 times the dog was considered somewhat sacred to an extent and was 
 therefore allowed to run the streets unharmed until their numbers run 
 into the many thousands, and their howling at night made thingp hide- 
 ous as we soon found out; but under the new government which is 
 trying to rapidly modernize things, they concluded it was a good pol- 
 icy to get rid of the dogs and it was a sight every night while I was 
 there to see the men come around, armed with large iron tongs and 
 followed by iron garbage wagons, and grab the dogs rig.ht and left 
 and throw them into the wagons, which when full were rapidly haul- 
 ed ahvay. I saw over sixty taken one night right round the hotel. 
 ft was said that they were taken to an inland in the Bosphorus and 
 i' ft there, where I understood afterwards most of them starved to 
 death as the government did not like to kill them on account of the 
 *emi-religious views of the populace about them. A rough estimate 
 >.-[ I he number oC the dogs running loose on Pera and Galatea hills a- 
 alon" (the new quarter) wa s in theneigaborhood o\" fifty thousand. 
 
 Among other interesting things, were the howling and dancing- de- 
 rvishes. The first lot there would be aboat fifty men meet in one 
 of their small chapels built for that, purpose, and sitting around on 
 all siu.-s of the room on the floor, would start and sing prayers in a 
 verj loud fashion for hours at a time until exhausted. It was rath- 
 er monotonous. The dancing or whirling dervishes had a very fine 
 
136 
 
 polished floor in a nice building with seats railed off all around for 
 she spectators; they would begin with their arms above their heads 
 being dressed in long skirts) andwhirl around and around until they 
 fell to the floor exhausted. It is a delightful ride to take one of 
 the small) lines of boats and go up the Bosphorus to the Black Sea, 
 and back, a distance of about 18 miles each way. It is lined all the 
 way up with little villages, old castles, and summer mansions, and 
 with the wooded hills and gardens for back grounds made it a very 
 pretty picture. 
 
 On Friday the Sultan goes in State to the mosque to pray, and 
 we obtaining a good position, watched the interesting procession 
 
 pas s , The troops, officers, members oi the cabinet, his harem (of i 
 women and .lastly he himself in an open carriage drove by. He has 
 a rather good face and is not so old but his hair is white and he 
 shows a little, the confinement of thirty years that his brother the 
 Weposed Sultan had imposed on him. 
 
 'The measuring of time in Turkey strikes you very queerly, ask 
 somebody the time you would be told say one o'clock, and the next 
 person a few minutes after wouM tell you it was f i v e o'clock, which 
 would sort of twist you up a little. For centuries the method of 
 reckoning time in Turkey has been based on the assumption that 
 the day ends and the new day begins at sunset, which is called 12 
 o'clock. Following the lead of the people, who seldom had watches 
 or clocks and judged the time by the position of the sun, the civil 
 and religious administrations used the same system, and clocks and 
 watches made to keep regular mean titae had to be changed almost 
 daily to adljust them to the sun. 
 
 Now however, the accurate and scientific reckoning of time as a- 
 dopted by modern countries is coming into use in the Turkish empire, 
 although the government has decided not as yet impose the change 
 by law. As a result, combination timepieces, which show both the 
 time by the sun and the standard time, are in demand. There are 
 three types of timepieces for this purpose. One had two dials, one 
 on each side: the second has two small dials side by side on the 
 same face, and the third has a central fixed dial for regular time, 
 and around it a movable dial for Turkish time. 
 
 The standard time will be introduced gradually, and the period 
 of transition willprobably extend over several years, during which 
 time both systems will be in use The building of railroads, which 
 must have accurate and uniform time, will extend the new system, 
 various administrations have already adopted it, and many of the 
 schools are preparing 3or the change. 
 
 One evening I visited a Masonic Lodge held under an Eng'ish 
 charter. It was held on the top floor of the English sailors home 
 in a very nice room. This particular lodge meeting was called as a 
 Lodge of Sorrow on the death of: their former Grand Master King- 
 Edward, and for that reason was well attended by a'l nationalities. 
 The work is a little different in details, but the essentials are the 
 same. The most interesting thing to me were different speeches or 
 eulogies pronounced by the various ones present, there being six diff- 
 erent languages spoken, namely: Greek, English, Turkish, German, 
 
137 
 
 French, and Italian. The speech in Greek was to me the most inter- 
 esting, though I couldn't understan it, but the smoothness and harmo- 
 nious sounds etc., alt impressed me greatly as to the language, it 
 may be possible that the speaker was a most accomplished man 
 which would make it sound more so. A nice little banquet and so- 
 cial time was held afterwards. The harbor was a busy one, and the 
 wharves seemed to be l'ined all the time with steamers ioading and un 
 loading!, showing that there was evidently a large commerce at this 
 port. 
 
 We visited one large rug and curio store, they were the same pec 
 pie that had the big display at the Chicago Exposition, and they cer- 
 tainly had a fine lot of things, but also a fine .hot of prices, none of 
 our party invested much. In one part ol the building; they were mak 
 ing silk rugs, the little girls were working tying on the silk threads 
 and cutting them, they had about a f>oot and a half finished on a rug 
 about seven feet wide and the man said they had been a month and 
 a half at that , doing about a foot a month. It was very interesting 
 to watch the girls working as they were very skii'lful and worked 
 rapidly. 
 
 We left Constantinople at 10 30 A. M., Saturday the 21st ol May 
 on the Austrain Lloyd steamer Palacky for Pirea, the port for 
 Athens in Greece. The boat was a very fine one and we enjoyed the 
 beautiful trip of 350 miles through the Grecian archipelago very much 
 arriving at Pirea at three P. M. on the 22nd. We took carriages and 
 had a very pleasant drive of five miles to Athens where we arrived 
 at 4.30 and stopped at the fine Hotel de La Grand Bretange. 
 
138 
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 ATHENS TO NAPLES. 
 
 In driving to the Hotel in Athens I had heard music and as soon 
 as the rooms were fixed, I started out and found that it happened 
 to be a day of celebration of some kind, and the Park about a half a 
 mile from the Hotel was in gala attire and a gala crowd. A fine mil- 
 itary band was playing and all Athens seemed to be present. The 
 music was very good and the crowd interesting and from there I walk- 
 ed over some of the town delving into the old ruins that you find 
 everywhere but more principally around the base of the Acropolis. 
 It is too bad that more money cannot be found for excavation pur- 
 poses, as even a superficial survey shows you that there must be plen 
 ty of ruins which would be of great value to history to have excavat- 
 ed and restored. Restoration work is going on at several places and 
 in time Athens may be made to look as of old when Greece was the 
 leader of the world in thought and art. I walked around until 
 dark and went back to the hotel for dinner which I iound very good 
 and well served. But oi the finish, when I wanted a cigar, the cheap- 
 est that could be found was forty cents and from that up to two dol- 
 lars and at the lowest price was not equal to our gpod Pennsylva- 
 nia five cent ones. 
 
 The tariff and tax on tobacco is enormous, which makes the cost 
 of good tobacco very high, they grow some sort of a weed in Greece 
 that goes under the name oi tobacco and that is all. Cigarettes can 
 be gotten much cheaper and are fair, so you see most everybody 
 men and women smoking cigarettes One of the finest parks in Athens 
 is in front of the hotel, and that also had a band concert, and a 
 large crowd that night. The streets are clean and in some parts wide, 
 others narrow but carriages g'o through everypi'ace. They have some 
 very line stores and bazaars there that are interesting. A few peo- 
 ple can be found that speak English, so that you can make your way 
 around without too much trouble. Oi course by this time we all be- 
 came adepts at the sign language, which g ^es most everyplace and 
 is a good thing to become proficient in. The money of Greece is 
 rather easy for the foreigner, being of the same rate as the franc 
 of France or the lira of Italy namely, about twenty cents; and the 
 French and EngUsh money is generally taken in Greece, in the lar- 
 ger cities. The name of the unit of money is the drachme equal to 
 about nineteen and one quarter cents, except in large amounts; that 
 is divided up into one hundred parts called lepta, and the coinage 
 ran 5 and 10 Iteptas copper; 5, 10, and 20 leptas in nickel; and 20, 50, 
 
139 
 
 leptas and 1, 2, and 5 drachmes in silver and ten and twenty dra- 
 chmas in gold. There was a scarcity of gold, and plenty ofi the pa- 
 per money which ran in all denominations from 1 drachme up, al^- 
 though in the small denominations, like our shinplasters of tne civil 
 war, in size. 
 
 Prices on many things were somewhat high, as the country is 
 heavily in debt and well taxed, but the people seem to be 1 airly en- 
 ergetic and many of the youngjer hotheads anxious for war with Tur- 
 key ajain, and they often asked outside opinion as to their chances. 
 I very quickly told one fellow that unless they could make one 
 strike, and that an extremely hard one, and a surprise at that, that 
 they would stand no more chance with the present Turkey than the 
 proverbial snowball would in that warmer climate tile preacners 
 talk about being the ffuture home of so many. Germany is with Tur- 
 key first last and all the time and so even if they did happen to 
 make some strike of some account, the fruits of victory would be tak- 
 en away from them, so that it would be the utmost folly to think 
 of it. 
 
 The native costumes are not to be seen much in the towns, but 
 only among the old people and some of the younger people in the 
 country so that picturesque costumes will soon be a thing of the 
 past, though a few of the regiments of the Greek army still wear 
 the short skirt ol the familiar pictures of the Greek peasant. 
 
 There are a great many interesting things at Athens for the del- 
 vers into ancient history, in the various famous old ruins, some 
 of which are being restored to make them as of old, as fast as 
 money can be gotten to del ray the expense. The Acropolis is the 
 main point of interest, portions of which are being restored at 
 the present time. Standing there as it does on the hill and can be 
 seen for miles around the work it did and beheld in carrying out 
 the glories oi this one time famous country impresses one greatly and 
 you study it with a lot of interest. Detailed descriptions are super- 
 fluous and would take up lots of space and can be much better 
 read in other works by Archaeologists, suffice it to name some of 
 the many prominent ones seen. The Olympieion, Panthenon, Thea- 
 tre of Bacchus, Odeon of Herod Atticus, Temple of Thesus, The 
 Propylees, Prison of Socrates. Tribune of Pnyx, Porte de 1' Agora, 
 Tower of the Winds, The Oil Market, The Baths, The Temple of A- 
 drien, Temple of Mercury, Arch of Adrien, and the uncovered por- 
 tions of the cemetery, on which work in excavation was still going 
 on when we were there, and which contains many interesting mon- 
 uments and graves. The relics that are unearthed are taken to the 
 fine museum in Athens, that is well worth a couple of days time, 
 instead of a couple of hours, that was all we had to go through it. 
 Of course the famous Stadium hasbeen rebuilt entire through the 
 generosity of a patriotic Greek whose statue has been erected in 
 front of the entrance. In the Stadium the old portions can still be 
 told by the time stained color of the marble. It was built a few 
 years ago in time ibr the revivaj of the famous Olympian Games 
 that first took place there and then and is a beautiful structure 
 all of marble, and is said to have cost nearly a million dollars to 
 rebuild. 
 
 Early on the morning of the 24th, the three men in the party 
 
140 
 
 took a carriage and drove about fifteen miles to the old town of 
 Eieuysis where there were some magnilicant old ruins, the princi- 
 pal ones being the Temple of Cres, and the Hall of Mysteries, the 
 latter being the birth place of Masonry in Greece. On the road we 
 stopped at the ruins which has been partially restored of an old mon- 
 astery which has some beautiful mosaic pictures depicting the life 
 of Christ, adorning the walls and ceilings. The country seems to 
 be rather barren not being farmed exept near Athens, and there seems 
 to be lots of arable land that could be utilized. In getting to Eleuysis 
 we skirted the shore ol the bay of Salamis in which Xerxes saw his 
 fine fleet defeats] and sunk in the fiamous battle in the Bay of 
 Salamis. About noon we joined the rest ol the party on the train 
 to Patras a seaport on the we s tern shore of Greece from which we 
 were to take the boat to continue our Journey. It was about 130 
 miles by train from Athens to Patras and gave us a fine chance to 
 see the country which in part was well cultivated, and in others left 
 alone. 
 
 The railroad for a short- while ran along the new ship canal 
 which connects the Bay ol Salamis with the Gulf of Corinth, the ca- 
 nal being cut through only a few miles of country and saves several 
 hundred to go around by water. There is one large deep rock 
 out ol some length and the canal will take boats of about three thou 
 sand tonnage. The railroad crosses the canal at the deepest cut 
 and then runs along the Gulf of Corinth to Patras where we land- 
 ed about six o'clock in the evening, and had a fine supper at the hotel 
 which was also where we got our first taste of a drink called Mastic, 
 that was taken diluted with water, and had a mijky appearance when 
 so done, but a most delicious taste and great rejuvenating effects. 
 The taste was something between sweet -myrrh and aniseed. We took 
 the S. S. Euterpe about ten o'clock in the evening and sailed from the 
 port at twelve for Corfu on the Island of the same name now be- 
 longing to Greece, lately ceded to them by Great Britain. Patras is 
 also a pretty large commercial port, principally wines, figs, olive 
 oils, and raisins being exported. The distance from Patras to Corfu 
 is about 125 miles and we came into the harbor about noon the next 
 day and landed for a drive around this beautiful Isl'and and city. The 
 most interesting parts being the fine old fortress and the Castle both 
 in use and in fine state of preservation. The fortress in ancient 
 days would have undoubtedly been impregnable with any sort of a 
 defense. 
 
 At 3 o'clock 'we sailed for Brindisi in Italy a distance of 120 miles 
 and landed at that port at two o'clock in the morning and a sleepy 
 tired lot we were, when the time came to take the train for Naples 
 at seven. I wandered around thetown interested in the markets, and 
 the walls, of what was at one time a strong walled town of some con- 
 sequence, and is now somewhat of an important port, being the land 
 ing place for the Oriental mails for their quick trip across Europe. 
 The custom officers gave us a little trouble but finding we were A- 
 merican tourists Pet us go quickly. About six o'clock we got a side- 
 walk restaurant open and the proprietor made us some coffee and 
 chocolate, and boiled some eggs, but milk was scarce, he gave a 
 shrill whistle and a man came around the corner with a f llock of goats 
 
The Stadium at Athens 
 
 The Hall of Mercury on the Acropolis at Athens 
 
I'll 
 
 and we soon had very fresh milk for our coliee. 
 
 The train left at seven for a 240 mile run across Italy to Naples 
 passing through some very interesting country and through some 
 nice feats in railroading in the way of tunnels and bridges, and land- 
 ed us at Naples at live o'clock in the evening, We stopped at the 
 fine Hotel, Victoria, facing the boulevard, and were very comforta- 
 bly housed. The city life at night on some of the main streets with 
 the gay colors and lights made it a very pretty sight. Naples is built 
 all over a hill, and a very steep one at that, there being very little 
 level ground anyplace. The views from here were magnificient with 
 Vesuvius in the distance, the smoke curl'ing up from its crater, and 
 the signs of the last eruption in the black masses of- lava that was 
 streaked down the mountain through the green groves and fields. 
 
 There are many interesting drives and boat trips around Na- 
 ples, that one should spend a couple of weeks there to thoroughly 
 see the beauties ol that beautiful country, but in a short drive a- 
 round the city itself, there is little of interest except a couple of 
 cathedrals, and the National museum with the large collection of 
 Pompeian re.'ics, that show the lifeof those times better than any- 
 thing else could have done. One could well spend a whole day in 
 that museum with these relics. 
 
 The one great thing ot interest to me was Pompeii, and that cer- 
 tainly would interest anybody, to really and actually see how they 
 did live in those days of Christ as all other things were mainly sup- 
 position and reading about, but here was the place just preserved 
 as it was with everything stopped and covered for two thousand years 
 x^ere has been a great deal excavated, and plenty more to be ex- 
 cavated, and no doubt many new discoveries will be made. The fres 
 coes are just as brilliant as the day they were painted, what would 
 one give now for the receipts of those pigments. After you have 
 once gone through the silent city," and through parts ofi the museum 
 at Naples, with its collection of the Pompeian things, and seen all its 
 wickedness you cease to wonder that it was struck dow r n in the hey- 
 day of its glory, as the wickedness of what you see, let alone the 
 multiplication of what is unknown, must have made the place one to 
 be shunned and to cause God in hiswrath to bury it for ever as a liv- 
 ing city. The railroad in going] there, it being about fifteen mil'es 
 of rt ride to Pompeii, crosses through some beautiful and fruitful 
 country; but the strange thing to me would be to see the streams of 
 black lava from six to ten feet high and from five to fifty feet wide, 
 lying through that pretty countrylike a huge black snake, brilliant 
 vt gelation right up against in on both sides. The railroad had cut 
 through it several places where the lava had crossed its tracks when 
 it was flowing and blocked the road. 
 
 At the depot as we were getting on the train, I was following 
 a gentleman in the car, when suddenly his wife said to him "What 
 is that man doing with his hands in your pocket" and at that a fel- 
 low hurriedly brushed by me and went out of the car, he had on blue 
 goggles and I had seen him distinctly; the police were sent for by 
 the R. R. officials and I pointed the man out to them, he was sitting 
 in another car, not being able to get away from the station without 
 easy detection, and thus hoping to escape being identified where he 
 
142 l ] 
 
 was. He was arrested but as to what became of him afterwards is 
 not known, as the gentleman refused to go to the police courts to 
 make a complaint though he was willing to and did make informa- 
 tion to the officers. It would have delayed his journey possibly and 
 been a source of trouble and for that reason he would not bother 
 with it further. That is what the pickpockets and thieves count on 
 over there in going mostly for foreigners, their knowledge of the fact 
 the foreigners know little of the language and hate to have trouble, 
 and will not lose the time to prosecute etc., which will leave them 
 escape even though they are captured, makes them use the tourists 
 as their prey most of the time. 
 
 .The police of Naples seem to be in league with the criminal fac- 
 tions the Mafia and the Camorra, finally some pretty prominent mur- 
 ders occurred, and the government was petitioned to take it up, and 
 the soldiers called the Carabineers, corresponding to our Penna 
 State Gonstabulatory were ordered to get busy, they finally captured 
 and imprisoned about one hundred and fifty, and with the witnesses 
 and all took them to a large building many miles from Naples. The 
 trials are now going on with the witnesses and informers protected 
 by the police, also the oi'Aiciate of the court had to be guarded, and 
 it looks as though the heart ol these famous organizations will be 
 broken with the imprisioning and hanging of the ringleaders. .Those 
 little carabineers are a fine body of soldiers. On the march they are 
 known as the fastest walking soldtery in the would, it being said 
 they can keep a gait of five miles an hour for several hours. They 
 wear a flat brim, round topped hat w T ith a fine plume of bronze roos- 
 ter tails they look like. The uniform is a dark green without much 
 trimming, and they certainly look very well and business like on the 
 march. At the Hotel in the eari'y morning it was sort of pleasant 
 to hear those bands coming along playing a lively quickstep heading 
 a regiment ol soldiers, or a battalion of marines or sailors from the 
 warships, drilling, manuvering, or marching, arong this fine boulev- 
 ard, and they were many of them every morning. The different uni- 
 forms ol the various organizations also made it a pretty picture and 
 an interesting one. 
 
 I hope to come back to Naples in the future and spend more time 
 to take the numerous interesting excursions that surround that city. 
 
143 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 ROME TO VENICE. 
 
 I bade goodby to the small party I had been traveling with from 
 the time I left Cairo, and from this time went alone around Eu- 
 rope. I wih 1 confine myseli to a small history of the trip, relating 
 not so mucn of what there is to see, as to easy ways of getting a- 
 long, and some things all persons who wish to tour Europe will be 
 helps for them to know. I left Naples for Rome at ten o'clock in 
 the morning, and went to the depot early, and was glad I did as the 
 train was crowded. I had no ticket, as yet, and the ticket windows 
 do not open until a few minutes be ore the time for the train to go. 
 I noticed that many had their tickets and were going into the train 
 getting all the best places etc., andit made me anxious to get in also, 
 so I spoke to one of the hotel porters and asked him if tickets couM 
 be gotten anyp'ace,he quickly said yes, named the price of a regu- 
 lar second-class ticket to Rome, about 20 lira, which I gave him and 
 he came back to me in a few minutes with it. I gave him a couple of 
 cents as a tip and went on my way rejoicing, got my baggage after 
 some hunting for it and finally got located very nicely. It was rain- 
 ing pretty hard so that the run was not so pleasant as it might 
 have been. I arrived in Rome about 2 o'clock and went to the Ho- 
 tfel Marini, which was a very pleasant one near the heart of the city 
 and at reasonable rates. 
 
 The money of Italy is the Lira being worth about 19% cents and 
 that is divided up into 100 centissimi, shortened to cents generally. 
 There was the usual copper coinage of one, five and ten cent, A 
 twenty cent nickel and fifty cent, and one, two, and five Lira sii'ver, 
 with some gold coinage and papermoney for the large denominations. 
 "Profiting by my experience in Naples getting tickets lor some time 
 ahead, I went to Cook^s office in riome and purchased my tickets 
 for some time ahead, which you can do very nicely, and what you 
 do not use are relunded to you should you change your route. They 
 can sell you a ticket from and to any point in Europe, by any man- 
 ner of conveyance, and certainly are a godsend to travelers in that 
 country who do not know the language The tickets are sheets oi pa- 
 per printed, about three by four inches in size, and they put them 
 together in books for you, and all you need to do is to show the 
 tickets where you wish to go, and you will have depots, trains, etc., 
 all pointed out to you. Another thing you have your tickets and can 
 take the train as soon as it is ready, which is often an hour before- 
 
144 
 
 iiand and it is necessary to be there early, as the best places in the 
 compartment coaches are gotten by those who come i irst, the inside 
 places are not so good as the corridors run along, the one side of 
 the car and the seats all run across trie car, two facing each other, 
 nearest the window are the best and the rest are further back and 
 darker and not near so convenient, i.'h< se cars are nice when there 
 happens to be oni'y two in a compartment for then you can stretch 
 out full length and rest as comfortably as on a couch at home. 
 
 The cars and tickets are first, second, and third class. The first 
 and second class are not very different, except in the price; the sec- 
 ond class costing about thirty percent ress than first which is about 
 2^ cents a mile, and second about a cent and three quarters. These 
 rates vary some in the different countries. First class cars are not 
 much used and therefore if a person wishes to have lots ol room on 
 a crowded train, it would be wise to take that part of the journey 
 first class and pay the excess fare. You can quickley, if on the watch 
 pick up customs and it is wise to look around for those little things 
 that help considerably in knowing. For instance, I got in the train 
 and put my piece of baggage which was a large collapsible hand grip, 
 up in the rack over the seat next to the window, thinking; that would 
 keep the seat alU right; I left the car to walk the platform, and fin- 
 ally when I came back found people in both the seats. I by mo- 
 tions pointed to the baggage, to myself and the seat, but they 
 would not stir and when one got up left a papal lying on the seat, 
 when I trying to take it the otherpointed to the paper and made me 
 soon understand that that paper was custom, and reserved that seat 
 and that nobody would take it. Isoon found that was a nice way to 
 reserve seats in the coaches at big stations, where many peopl'e got 
 on, throw a paper one place, a hat another, and say "resirvirt" and 
 the peopie would move on to someplace else, and you often had plen- 
 ty of room in that way for your journey. Some places to make sure 
 I dropped my big heavy valise on the seat and that always held it. 
 T f. you can possibly avoid it, don't take a trunk with you, travelling 
 in Europe, it is a big nuisance and expense, and often is the cause 
 of missing trains etc., You can take as many grips as you can carry 
 and it will cost you nothing extra as there is a charge for checking; 
 trunks by the pound, white you can take half a dozen grips with you 
 into the car at no charge except for the porterage and that is oi'lten 
 nothing more for two or three grips thai for one. 
 
 By the way, speaking oi porterage thai is one of the most useful 
 and helpful adjuncts of the European railway stations, some are 
 dumb of course, but many oi them are bright hustling fellows who 
 will take your baggage from the carriage, you tell the place you wish 
 to go, and be sure and get it right, and the class you wish to travel, 
 and they will get you a seat in a car and hold it lor you until you 
 come, steadily defending it again others and the tip is merely nomi- 
 nal for all that work generally tencents in our money makes them say 
 thank you many times. They are strictly honest, but try and follow 
 your baggage as they make mistakes. Speaking of naming the place 
 you wish to go many places are not known by their English names, 
 and >ou should at once g*et the namos of the places you wish to g;o 
 in the way they pronounce them in their country; for instance, Na- 
 
145 
 
 pies is Nap-o-li, I lorence is Fir-en-zi; Venice is Ven-ez-ia; pronoun 
 eed as I have it and they wil|l mostly always understand you at once, 
 also learn a few oi the very common words of a language of which 
 try and get the correct pronounciation; a dozen or so with a few signs 
 will carry you a good while without much trouble. As I said before 
 if you have to use English, use the shortest and simplest words possi- 
 ble, and pronounce them distinctly with appropriate signs where pos- 
 sible, to do so, and you will be often understood. Don't use long sen- 
 tences and long words but learn early the word for thank you, and 
 use it very often, both before and after a request, it will' go a very 
 long ways in getting the person addressed, to try and understand you. 
 Rome is an extremely interesting city, and several weeks could be 
 profitably spent there doing things at your own convenience, not be- 
 ing rushed until you are so tired you cannot thoroughly appreciate 
 it, unless you have the strength of an ox and a good absorbing, pow 
 er oJ the brain. For me to tell you all of the interesting things of 
 Rome when regular printed guides are whole books would be out of 
 the question. The ruins of the Golisseum, the Forum, Castle St. An- 
 ^elo, and of course St. Peters, where I happened to strike the nine 
 o'clock Mass on Sunday morning, and hear that beautiful music by 
 the famous choir, and that organ, was well worth a short journey 
 itsojf, the Pantheon, the various triumphial arches, and the many 
 pretty views of the city from the dilterent hills on which Rome is 
 built, are all well worth the time spent, as well as the many numer- 
 ous ruins that have been unearthed and the many Cathedrals and 
 Art Museums of great value for the numerous treasures they contain. 
 Pensions or boarding houses can be gotten for reasonable figure 
 where you can get lodging and light breakfast for a few dollars a 
 week, ranging] lor those in moderate means as low as lour dollars up 
 until any price you wish to pay; the hotels run from two dollars 
 per day upwards with a g'ood many extras. The Cook's tickets are in 
 many place;:; a good thing to have as they will save you considerable 
 money if you use them judiciously, and you mostly receive fair treat- 
 it, though there are a few places where you do not get the con- 
 iration that you would if they thought you were free to be charg- 
 any sum they wished to. But never forget, you have to tip to 
 el with any degree of comfort to your body and mind, and you 
 must he rather lavish with them but must learn this one lesson that 
 a small Up of two to ten cents goes about as iar as a much larger 
 and you often get more thanks than the one who gives a dollar 
 a tip, as secretly the servant Is one as a fool who gives 
 
 money away so lavishly and respects the one who knows how to dis- 
 ,ii use it with decency. The Americans have spoiled Europe and 
 here seems to be no help for it in that line. 
 
 The most important personage in the European Hotel is the por- 
 ter with his gold lace and broad cloth, he is the one you must g:o 
 to for all information, and practically for everything in the favor line, 
 if you wish service out of him treat him civilly and you get lots of 
 it, he can speak several languages generally, fluently, and he has to 
 be generously tipped or expects it, of course limited to the service he 
 gives you. There are maids and man servants on every floor of the 
 hotel, and whether they do you any service or not, expect to be tip- 
 
146 
 
 ped, varying from twenty cents a day to iifty cents lor the week and 
 higher if you wish, depending on your sfcay and service. The man 
 servants I rarely bothered and rarely tipped except the baggage por- 
 ters and the waiters. The ones who have lots ol money and wish 
 to blow it, oi course go wild in the tipping line, and they always find 
 willing receptacles bobbing up fron everywhere whether they do any 
 service or not. My advice has been to fill your pockets with the meas- 
 ly coppers, that you should not learn to despise over there, and use 
 tnem liberally and they will' take you much farther than the larger 
 sums. 
 
 I had a chance to have an audience with the Pope, which I am 
 sorry now I did not make use of but had made all arrangements to 
 travel on not thinking I could get to see hfm in so short a time and 
 therefore missed it. Mr. Ziess who was with the tour, had letters 
 from an American Bishop and on presenting them on Saturday night, 
 received word he would be received with his friends on Monday morn- 
 ing, and he asked me on Sunday evening to go along, but I had arrang- 
 ed my travel, so declined though I sent some rosaries to be blessed for 
 some ol my iriends in America, the v having already been blessed at 
 the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem, the Church of the 
 Nativity at Bethlehem and in the Garden of Gethsemane. 
 
 I walked a great deal in Rome, I calculated in the two days to have 
 been over twenty miles and saw much that was interesting that I 
 wouti'd loJke to see again, as the life is varied and picturesque in all 
 its details. The stores are numerous and prices lair. The streets 
 are many ol them very narrow, some ol the principal business 
 streets being so that a carriage could hardly get through, while at 
 other parts large wide bouvelards traversed the city, their vistas 
 always ending in some fine structure of some sort, that made it pleas- 
 ing to the eye. They are just finishing that fine monument to Vic- 
 tor Emanuel the Second which is certainly a beautiful piece ol arch- 
 itecture. 
 
 i left at nine o'clock on Monday the 30th for Florence arriving 
 there at 2.30 alter a delightful ride across and through the Appenine 
 mountains. We passed through fifty five tunnels on that ride one 
 of them over a mile long. I stopped at the Hotel New York, as it 
 was called, alongi the river which at one time was the palace ofi the 
 famous Catherine de Medici, and 1 find several of the hotels there 
 have been palaces ol famous people of those times. The Uifizi Art 
 Gallery in Florence is the one of ones of all Europe that you should 
 go to, the great numbers of all the fine masterpieces that it contains., 
 both in painting and statuary, making it well worth a long stay that 
 I did not give it. There are other galleries and museums of interest 
 
 Florence is really the centre of the old art im Italy, and to day 
 there is plenty ol it in the many stores with their fine display of 
 sculpture and painting, and at what seemed to be very reasonable 
 prices, many of them small museums with their stock of old second 
 hand curios. A trip on loot around Florence is interesting to the one 
 who likes to see life in aW its phases. I went through one quarter 
 of the city alter nightfall, and whe ; Jhad returned and was in a 
 drug store talking to the proprietor, happening to tell' him where all 
 I had been, he was greatly surprised that I came back alive and un- 
 
147 
 
 harmed, as he said there were many murders of foreigners commit- 
 ted in that quarter, but I think one can go most any place if you mind 
 your own business, and make no display of money or jewelry to ex- 
 cite the cupidity ol the robber. 
 
 There are plenty of curio stores and some very fine old cameos 
 can be purchased second hand, but dont under any circumstances pay 
 what they ask you for them, as you can as usual buy them much 
 cheaper by holding out for a lower price. 
 
 I left Florence at 6.30 in the morning and arrived in Venice af- 
 ter a very pleasant ride, about two o'clock. As Venice is all is- 
 lands, I took the hotel gondola as you would take a bus here, and 
 was rapidly conveyed to the hotel Victoria and soon sallied out to 
 see the city. The smaller canals ai'j covered with bridges in many 
 places so that one can go a foot nearly all over the city, with the 
 aid of little ferries that take you for a penny across the Grand Ca- 
 nal I visited the factories and shops of Guzzi & Co., one of the 
 largest and most extensive in the city, who do a great deal of import- 
 ing all over the world. Their specialties are fine furniture, and the 
 manufacture of the beautiful Venetian glassware, mosaics, and fine 
 china. There was so much of the beautiful in their warerooms 
 that one would have liked to have spent some time, and considerable 
 money, but that was out of the question so I had to travel aiong. 
 The gondoliers handle their boats very expertly, especially in 
 coming out or going in those small canals, that do not seem to be 
 much wider than the boat itself. Their prices are regulated by the 
 municipality, and have a fixed tariff of about thirty cents an 
 hour to one dolv<ar and fifty per day. Venice at one time a pros- 
 perous city of' a million inhabitants, is now, only a small place of a- 
 bout one hundred and fifty thousand, living on the history of its 
 past and the tourists. One wonders why many of the small canals 
 are not filied up, and they look at you with horror lor the sugges- 
 tion, and say what would become of the place if this our only dis- 
 tinguishing thing from the rest of the world was done away with; 
 not for them. The other points of interest about Venice, of cours< 
 are St. Marks Square, with the Cathedral, and the famous steeple 
 which fell in 1902, the rebuilding of which is nearly finished, and 
 the Ducal palace which also fronts on the square. The square is 
 where all Venice goes in the evening, they have band concerts night- 
 ly, and the place is surrounded by fine restaurants and shops. The 
 famous Bridge of Sighs is close by. The famous old Church of St. 
 Mark is said to contain the bones. o<t St Mark brought to that place 
 in 829 and a cathedral was built, it was destroyed and rebuilt about 
 920. The architectpre is peculiar having no one style, but some- 
 thing of all styles, a sort of a harmonious mixture; it is rich in 
 estimable granite and basalt marbles, while pagan iragments alter- 
 nate with religious relics, Greek columns with Byzantine embell- 
 ishments. It is very rich with fine mosaics pretty neartly the whole 
 bible history being depicted in the naves and ceilings. The Ducal 
 Paiace is another point of interest containing many fine paintings 
 frescoes and statues as well as the 1 anions prisons and courts of the 
 Council of Ten. The Royal Art Galleries also contain very many old 
 and beautiful paintings. 
 
148 
 
 Venice is a very easy place to get lost in as no street is- over 
 any straight distance in length and there are so many abrupt 
 turns that one soon gets bewildered, unless you keep close track 
 of iroioi whence you came; there are so many what we could call 
 .blind alleys that make you retraceyour steps. A map has to be care- 
 fully found and, studied here. The Grand Canal is lined on both sides 
 for nearly its whole length with the old palaces of the Doges, many 
 oi them of fine architecture but much in decay,, some are now used 
 for hotels, for factories, and for stores, and a few of them for 
 dwellings. It is another place where one could spend a week or two 
 very profitably. They have much in the shops that are well worth 
 buying, in the glass work, in the carved and painted leather, the 
 fine carved furniture, mosaic and paintings, and nearly anything in 
 the art line. 
 
 u i no socoe a w ■ ■ ' — — 
 
149. 
 
 CHAPTER XXIIf . 
 VENICE TO OBERAMMAGAU. 
 
 I left Venice about 9.30 a. m. and after I gpt on the train Hound 
 I had taken the wrong one to make my connections at Verona, for 
 the train lor Munich, Looking over my timetable carefully (one of 
 Cook's issue and a very good thing' to have), I discovered there was 
 a train de Luxe and last mail as they call them in Europe, leaving 
 Verona five minutes alter this one arrived, and looking out on arri- 
 val saw a train standing there, had the porter take my grip, and ask- 
 ed the train man if he would accept a second class ticket and I pay 
 the difference, and he saying yes, I boarded the train and had one of 
 the finest rides I had in Europe, it was over the lamous Brenner 
 pass, through all that beautiful Tyrol mountain scenery. There was 
 but three passengers on the whole train of three passenger cars and 
 we certainly rode in state as the cars of the International Schlat- 
 wagon Express Train Co., (so called) are very tine ones correspond- 
 ing to our Drawing room cars in this country. I paid the excess 
 fare as far as Innsbruck, that pretty village in the heart of the Ty- 
 rol mountains, which surrounds it on all sides to the height of a coup 
 le thousand feet; the total excess fare for first a'lass and all amount 
 ing to about $3.50, as only first class tickets are allowed to travel on 
 those trains or cars. It took from eleven in the morning to seven 
 in the evening to make the journey and at one point we were so high 
 in the mountains, that it became very cold. 
 
 The road in some places doubled over on ii gain the necessary 
 
 height to cross the mountains, one tunnel being over a mile in length 
 It was a line feat of engineering and at the station on the summit 
 I noticed a monument to a man who I learned was the engineer who 
 had planned and built the road, I have forgotten the name. 
 The mountains in many places are very precipitous and in other 
 places old castles were noticed, located so that one would think you 
 would not have been able to get to, let alone to storm and take 
 them. Many pretty waterfalls leaped from great heights, and the run 
 ning water was used lor power in many places on the grade down 
 to Innsbruck, the great fall making a smaj.1 amount of water give a 
 large power. 
 
 Innsbruck is a rather pretty and busy city, nestled as it is in the 
 mountains, and many ol the native costume of the Tyrolians are 
 seen on the streets and in the business places. I left about 7.30 the 
 next morning lor Munich arriving at noon stopping] at the Hotel Bell- 
 evue which is located on the principal square of the city. The beer 
 
150 
 
 gardens and breweries of Munich are the famous things there and; 
 are known ail over the world. They number sixteen, some of them 
 belong to the city itself, and from them are named many of the beer 
 products oi this country. The price of beer is the same in all places 
 regulated by law, that they must give a full litre (about a quart) of 
 solid beer for six cents, or half a litre ior three, and it must be beer 
 and not froth, under penalty of a. fline. Some of the breweries, most 
 all of which have larg e beer gardens connected with them, have extra 
 fine furnished places upstairs in which they are privileged to charg/e 
 nine cents for the litre oi beer. 
 
 The beer must be brewed the full time, is not adulterated with 
 acids, and is very palatable. The largest gardens in connection with 
 the breweries are the LowenBrau Keller, Hof Brau Keller, Burgier 
 Brau Kefller, Keller meaning cellar, though it is rarely called a cellar 
 as we call it, and the Pschor Brau, each one ol them accommodate 
 about three thousand people. They always have fine bands of music 
 and charge a nominal admission. They also have outside gardens 
 adjoining used in fine weather. 
 
 The town is a very interesting one to walk over as well as to 
 ride, though I preferred walking, you saw so much more and there 
 is much of interest that is lost by going around in carriages. They 
 have line summer parks and resorts, and a good street railway sys- 
 tem. The city is rich in good architectural buildings of many styles., 
 and also rich in good art museums, and is well worth a long stay, be- 
 ing about as interesting in the winter as m the summer, on account 
 of the numerous festivals going on nearly all the time. 
 
 Munich is practically the clearing place for the Passion Play at 
 Oberammagau, and you have to pass through Munich to get there 
 by rail. During the Passion Play the hotels of Munich raise their 
 rates. The days beiore the production of the play, trains are run- 
 ning out to Oberammagau with great frequency, oiten one train hav- 
 ing six or eight sections, about ten minutes apart, leaving as fast 
 as loaded. In former years, you could go out there make your own 
 arrangements lor rooms at moderate prices, and stay where you 
 would, but this year the sense of commercialism has prevaded this 
 place and now to get a seat for the regular dates of production 
 you had to engage accommodation weeks in advance generally, and 
 pay ten doillars for your board from Saturday night to Monday morn- 
 ing, whether you used it or not, and no matter what kind you ob- 
 tained. 
 
 The householders were alloted out the tickets the afternoon be- 
 fore the play according to the number of accommodations that had 
 been engaged, which they distributed to the parties that engaged 
 them and no amount oi persuasion or bribery seemed to be able to 
 get you better seats or accommodations than they wished to give you 
 You had to take what was allotedyou, and I certainly did not draw 
 a prize package in accommodations though it was said to be a hotel, 
 it was certainly a terror both for sleeping accommodations and the 
 eating, and to think you paid ten dollars ffor what the average board- 
 ing house in America would have charged you about one dollar for 
 would have made you grit your teeth. I slept one night and ate one 
 meal and was glad to get out at that. They asked you to register, 
 
151 ' ' * 
 
 and a space was left for remarks, which I gladly failed in with some 
 thing, meaning the poorest I had ever slrucK, only used much stronger 
 language. But you seemed not to be able to get a ticket in any oth- 
 er way for their regular production so you had to put up with it. 
 
 By regular production I mean the dates the plays were hilled for, 
 that being generally Sunday and Holy days, but the crowds and appli- 
 cations are so far ahead oil the four thousand capacity of the play 
 house, that they have the practice of repeating the performance the 
 next succeeding day, and sometimes the third day aiter, making the 
 number of applications estimated at times in the neighborhood of 
 ten thousand lor one performancealone. For these overflow per- 
 iormances as they were called, ticket could often be purchased with- 
 out the requirements of the excessive board bill, but had to be got- 
 ten from the people of the village as no tickets were ever given or 
 sent out ol the village nor could any definite places be reserved. 
 
 Of 160 houses in the village all took from four to forty board- 
 ers during the play, and you had to go into garrets, two in a bed, or 
 anyplace they put you unless you wished to pay double lior the ac- 
 commodation, to be alone. Of course there were some exceptional 
 homes in the place, of some of the better class people, where the ac- 
 commodation was of the best both eating and sleeping;, and lucky were 
 those who drew the prize packages but they were few and far 
 between. Though the people of the village made Jittle out of the 
 play on account oi the enormous expense they were put to, they did 
 make considerable individually by selling trinkets and wood carvings 
 etc., that they had been making for ten years past for souvenirs to 
 sell to the visitors during this one season. But this time they de- 
 termined to go one better and make the lar./e charge lor the accommo- 
 dation, and thus get some money while the low price for the piay 
 remained the same. 
 
 The costs for the seats ranged from fifty cents to $2.50 for the 
 whole performances, which lasted from eight o'clock in the morning 
 until six in the evening, with two hours intermission at noon for 
 lunch and rest, for you need it, for the seats were ordinary slat ben- 
 ches, of very hard wood it seemed and the natives made a nice thing 
 of renting cushions, that could have been made here for a quarter, 
 for a mark (25 cents) a performance, and they made you deposit 75 
 cents lor the guarantee of the return of it. My landlady handed 
 me a second place ticket which costs eight marks ($2.00) when I had 
 paid ten lor it, and I objected and received two marks back, but I 
 said I wished a ten mark seat and she answered she did not have it. 
 I noticed that number was high and from my previous experience 
 of ten years ago, when I visited the p'ay in 1900, I knew some of 
 the second place tickets were as good as the first, if I could get far- 
 ther front, so I fussed and fumed around and finally got her to let me 
 see all her tickets, and I soon picked what I felt sure was a good num- 
 ber, and I found out the next day it was and I had a good seat to 
 view the periormance. 
 
 Another way to get to Oberammag-m was a thirty mile drive o- 
 ver the mountains from Innsbruck, which is a very pretty one and 
 only a moderate price for a party. There are several interesting 
 drives around the place, that are beautiful, and a visit to one of 
 
152 
 
 the palaces of the Kings, about 8 miles off was well worth the trip. 
 
 A short history of the Passion Play will be of interest The 
 thing that attracts tourists from &U over the world to come to this 
 little obscure mountain village, cannot but be of some interest. It 
 originated in 1634 when a plague was raging^ and the peasants made 
 a vow that if the ravages of the plague were stayed, they would rep- 
 resent the Passion off the Saviour once each ten years. (The vow- 
 has been carefully kept all this time and mostly at Oberammagiau 
 with a couple of exceptions, it has oi < late been much elaborated on 
 and became a source of interest to the outside world. Many de- 
 plore the commercialism with which it is now seemingly surrounded, 
 and the peasants are shrewd, and in a way you cannot blame them, 
 but their habits mode of living, buildings and work of life seem to 
 say that there has not been much money made on it in the past, but 
 this year it iooks much brighter foreveryone to have a life long com- 
 petance. The commercialism does not seem to be of the mean or sor- 
 did sort that some would have us believe, and the play is surely pre- 
 sented in a real spirit of religious piety, notwithstanding thefact that 
 the money making end is not overlooked; and yet the cost of the show 
 itself is not high lor the long time and the large number of perform- 
 ers that take part, and the infrequency that it is shown. They could 
 easily obtain ten dollars for the best seats, and still have over half 
 the attendance and make considerably more money with less effort, 
 but they seem satisfied with their low prices. The individual players 
 
 not benefit largely, for after paying all expenses the receipts of 
 the play are divided into thirds, one third going to the community 
 and two thirds to the players, who arc divided into classes according 
 to their relative importance, each member of each class receiving the 
 same amount. For example Anton I^ang, the Christ of 1900, who is in 
 the list class, received $350.00 for his share of that season ,f;rom May 
 to September. 
 
 The play is given in a large building open at one end like a 
 large train shed, with a sloping floor, crossed with hard benches. The 
 stage is entirely in the open as are some oi the front and cheapest 
 seats, but the small central portion of the stage is roofed over and 
 has a curtain and is where the tableaus are shown. The play gjoes on 
 rain or shine, Very few of the :large audiences leave while the 
 play ig going on. the great majority showing an intense interest in it, 
 and at the end the whole audience shows the emotion in the vivid- 
 ness with which the last days of Christ are depicted and acted by 
 those simple peasants, whose whole soul seems to be in the play, 
 The play begins with the entry oi Christ into Jerusalem and foll- 
 ows him through his persecution, and crucifixion, and resurrection. 
 It follows the style of the Greek plays in which a prologue plays an 
 important part. Each of the numerous acts into which it is divided 
 is heralded by the chorus, in their flowing robes of all colors. The 
 chorus makes a very good appearance and their singing is good 
 though there are no voices that seem to be much above the ordinary. 
 Twice their robes are exchanged for all black, immediately before 
 and after the crucifixion. The stage is very large, the number on 
 it sometimes being nearly seven hundred. The two wings or sides o$ 
 the stage give an appearance of streets fading away in the distance, 
 
45a 
 
 and ft being open io the sky with the mountains ior its background 
 make it an impressive scene. The total width of the stage is about 
 150 feet. The grouping is also very elective at times. 
 
 The actors all of them have the appearance oS being very much 
 in earnest. Lang acts the part of the Christ very well, though he was 
 not so impressive this time as ten years ago when he was then rath- 
 er thin and looked more the part than now, as he is at present very 
 fat weighing I should say about 220 pounds. The Judas Iscariot was 
 exceedingly well portrayed, looking] and acting every instant the part 
 and even on the street in his ordinary clothes you would immediate- 
 ly pick him out for his part. In lact all the principal, actors looked 
 their parts in their daily vocations of iile, so earnestly do they live 
 up to the play. Nobody is allowed to act in the play who was not 
 born and raised in the village. The play is run by a village committee 
 with autocratic powers. The King of Sweden and one of the German 
 princes had witnessed it the Sunday before I was there. They have 
 a lew booths in the rear of the auditorium reserved lor the royalty 
 and nobility who see the production. 
 
 Taking the play all in all it is wonderful, and the most wonder- 
 ful thing about it is that these simple peasants, notwithstanding the 
 fact that they are shrewd enough to take advantage of the interest 
 the world shows in their performance, should be able to present it 
 with such extraordinary ability. Among them are several who r it 
 seems to me would win fame on any stagey while the manner in 
 which the various characters andscenes are blended into a harmoni- 
 ous whole, in which one could sc arce P ic k a flaw, is amazing. The 
 machinery of the play is so smooth that there seems to be not a min- 
 ute wait from begining to end and possibly this smooth succession 
 of acts and scenes helps greatjy in hoi ding the audience during the 8 
 hours of the play, but at times the singiag of, the prologue being in 
 German as is all the language of the play seemed rather long and 
 tiresome, that might not be if one understood the language thorough- 
 ly. 
 
 A little knowledge of German with an aequafntaace of the Bible 
 helped you very much to follow along with the play, and hooks could 
 be purchased that ran the English translation and German side by 
 side, but to follow with the books detracted from your thoroughly 
 seeing the full performance and they really should be read before- 
 hand a couple of times to get you better acquainted with the run of 
 it. Before every act there is a tableau from the old testament 
 that made a connection between the old testament and the new,, of 
 the act to follow. I will give you an illustration; the scene before 
 the betrayal of Christ by Judas for thirty pieces of silver, was that' 
 of; Joseph's brothers selling him into bondage in Egypt. I consid- 
 ered it well worth the time and money spent to see &, a second time,, 
 and hope to be able to witness it again ten years hence. The vill- 
 age looked much more prosperous than it did ten years ago. Lang's 
 small house ten years ago of one story and a ga.rre&, had become a 
 fine two story and garret villa. There is no doubt alter *his season 
 performances all will even be in much! better- circumstances, and be 
 able to have more pretentious homes. 
 
 I had the pleasure of meeting! Mr.. Henry Ellsworth ojT Dayton, O. 
 
154 
 
 while there;. He has made Oberammagau his summer home for the- 
 last eleven years, and told me much that was interesting of the life 
 of these simple villagers. He is a Lecturer and author and connect- 
 ed with the Dramatic Mirror of New York which I have represented 
 1'or twenty years. 
 
 The German unit of money is the mark,, (twenty five cents in 
 our money) divided into one hundred parts called pfennings, with the 
 usual small, copper, silver, and nickel coinage as well as gold. I 
 left Oberammagau at 6.20 Sunday evening arrived in Munich and took 
 the 9;40 train p. m., for Linz in Austria arriving there at four 
 Qi'telock in the morning was somewhat bothered on the way by the 
 Austrian customs, there and at Belgian frontier, were the only places 
 of the eighteen custom houses that I passed through, that I was re- 
 quired to open my baggage. Most times the words 'American", "ai- 
 res' pointing to my baggage and 'no tobae, no liquor' T would be 
 sufficient and the officers would go on. I intended taking the steam- 
 er from Linz at nine o'clock for the ride of about 150 miles down 
 the beautiful Danube river to Vienna. Between that time and when 
 I arrived I walked over Linz andalso got my breakfast. I enjoyed 
 the ride to Vienna very much and would recommend all to take it 
 that could when traveling abroad 
 
155 
 
 CHAPTER XXIV. 
 VIENNA TO STOCKHOLM. 
 
 I arrived at Vienna, Wien it is called in that country, at five (f- 
 clock and took a cab for a ride ofl nearly three miles to the hotel in 
 the heart o'f the city. It is certainly a beautiful city and I think a- 
 long with Berlin, the finest in Europe. The many magnificant build- 
 ings, the great growth, said to have considerably over two million 
 population now, and the industry apparent everywhere marks it for 
 a still larger growth. The street called the Ring Strasse I thought 
 one of the most beautiful in the world. It circles the city from the 
 river to the river, now of course being in the heart of the city, but 
 which at one time fifty years agio was the ground on which the walls 
 of the city stood. Though the foresight and broad Hand- 
 edness of the present Emperor Er anz Joseph who is beloved by all, 
 the old walls were razed and a beautiful street made containing walks, 
 drives, bridle paths, and trolley avenues, none interfering with the 
 other, all separated with fine shade trees interlaced with many small 
 parks containing fountains, statuary etc., and there are also many fine 
 business blocks, palaces, hotels, and residences, olf architecture in har- 
 mony with the public buildings, making the street one beautiful vista 
 from end to end. The princely flavor of the Emperor in every field 
 ot art, had the tendency to make all a picture of artistic invention 
 and energy. 
 
 The new money of Austria is the crown or krone as the unit, the 
 value being a little over twenty cents, that is divided into one hun- 
 dred parts called heller. Formerly before 1901, the unit was a florin 
 divided into one hundred kreuzer, the florin being forty cents in A- 
 merican money, and you will run across both kinds of money still in 
 use, so that you have to get acquainted with both; and on top of this 
 comes the Hungarian coinage which is also current in Austra, the krone 
 being divided in what is called filler, so that you would have the vari- 
 ous smatl pieces going under the names of kreuzer, heller and filler 
 the two latter being ot the same v a i U e the former equal to two of the 
 others. Of course the usual small bronze nickel and silver coinage 
 and also gold and paper. 
 
 The business places, stores, etc. a re superior to any you see else- 
 where and everywhere seems to fee progression, unlike Rome, Venice, 
 Paris and some of those cities that are living on their past. But my 
 time was limited so I confined it to walking many miles over the 
 city, greatly interested in what I saW j a nd sorry to leave on Tuesday 
 evening June 7th lor Dresden Ger many an a ll night ride of, about 
 nine hours, again having to pass through a custom house but this 
 time not molested, 
 
Dre&ieat is located oa the river Elbe a small, shallow stream that 
 runs, for .■several hundred miles through Germany into the North Sea 
 Hfflar Hamburg. 'The way the Germans utilize that river for trans- 
 portation would be a wonder tem. hundreds of boats both barges and 
 steamers drawing about two feet .or less of water pass continually 
 123s aM down this .shallow river, averaging in depth it was told me a- 
 bout five feet, loaded with all sorts of heavy freight making the trans- 
 pEjrfcaUoa oasis, a very low figure., Think of] all the water courses 
 thai eonid be utilised as well, going to waste in this country. It 
 cast the Yienese 24.000,000 marks to conserve the waters of the Danu- 
 be, feint they have a fine navigable river at all seasons of the year on 
 w&atitoi millions ©f tons of traffic is continually passing to and llro. 
 .For considerable -distance where the Elbe river has a stiff, current 
 Ifcat would be hard to steam against with a tow there are low iron tow 
 basis, with sloping ends, that pick up an iron cable located in the 
 feed ©f the stream and slowly pull themselves up against the current 
 
 h from three to six barges behind. The cable runs up over the 
 fa&w and passes out ■over the .stern. Of course it never interferes as 
 hoafas going down do not need the use oJf it, so that it is only used 
 by towing steamers going against the current. 
 
 I visited a post card factory in Dresden one of the largest andfin- 
 
 in Europe and was very much interested in the work. The gelatine 
 pad cards so ©ailed which are the best of! the common card work are 
 all really etchings made on plate glass in sheets of thirty on a pane 
 and require a good deal of pains and care in printing the work not 
 o^mg like the printing of cards in America, but handled like engrav- 
 ings. They also manufacture those elegant twelve color cards which 
 a«e copies maialy of the famous paintings of Europe and in the mak- 
 ing oi which It requires twelve different stones and printing, being 
 3 Anagraphs but otf the best. It was a\ well equipped factory and well 
 worth a visit. Dresden is also a. very fine progressive city with many 
 fcldags of interest and one of| the finest art galleries in the world, con- 
 taining a large number of masterpieces, the prize one being the Sis- 
 tine Madona which has a room in the gallery all to itself. 
 
 Another place of interest was what is called the Green "Vault, be- 
 ing a lew rooms in the lower part of one of the palaces, filled with 
 rare Jewelery, antiques and gems of all sorts of enormous value,, said 
 to be worth about nine million marks. They belong to the Saxon 
 Princes or Kingdom I believe, and are rigorously guarded. In the af- 
 ternoon I took a drive over the city through the parks with the rep- 
 resentative of the post card fjirm. We went to one of the numerous 
 parks found everywhere in German cities that have such fine musie 
 and you also find many of the municipalities with their elegant free 
 band concerts every pleasant day. 
 
 I left Dresden about two p. m., for Berlin where I arrived at five 
 ©clock and went to the Hotel Bellevue, located on the Potsdamer 
 Plate which is said to be one of the busiest spots in Europe. It was 
 a sight of itself day and night andall night at that. Five of the prin- 
 cipal streets come together there and all the main street ear and bus 
 lines of the city pass through or start from that place and many of 
 the roolfgardens and open sidewalk restaurants surround it so that it 
 is indeed a great place for the study of humanity; and like; Broadway 
 
157 
 
 seemed to have as much going on at three o'clock in the morning as 
 in the day time. As I could only be in the city a couple of days and 
 wanted to see all I could I concluded to take Cook's rubberneck au- 
 tos and it is really worth while when time is limited and one wants 
 to get a general view of a place. 
 
 Berlin is on a par with Vienna for general prosperity, art and being 
 the finest city in Europe though the general ensemble of buildings 
 •etc., in Vienna on the Ringstrasse was better and prettier than that 
 of Unter Den Linden, Berlin's famous street which is a straight line 
 while Vienna's street is circular following the old walled lines of the 
 city. Untex Den Linden contains many of the principal buildings of 
 the city but the archieetture is not so harmonious or the streets 
 near so pretty I think as the Ringstrasse. I was very much amazed 
 while out one day to see the if ire department respond to an alarm 
 and a large one it must have been as the great number of pieces of 
 fire apparatns all late designs went by and all under motor power; 
 ladder trucks, engines down to the lig|ht chiefs cart. I was amazed 
 in cause all the apparatus I had seen in my travels heretofore had 
 been of. a very much inferior line and muchly antiquated. I had the 
 g^eat pleasure of seeing and hearing Grand Opera at the New Grand 
 Opera House. Lohengrin was the play and it was very very good 
 indeed, the singing of the chorus as well as the principals being ex- 
 ceptional. 
 
 On Saturday the 11th of Junel took the Cook's auto for a ride to 
 Potsdam about fifteen miles froniBerlin where the palaces of the 
 present Emperor and also that of Frederick the Great are located. It 
 was a very fine ride through""fhe~ Green woods stopping at a lake and 
 taking a motor boat jar a 3 mile ride up the lake to Pottsam. We 
 visited the Tomb of Frederick in the old church there, that also con- 
 tains many relics of his days and went through his fine large palace 
 with its beautiful and extensive grounds. The palace is said to be 
 the same as it was when he was living and is a veritable museum that 
 gave you somewhat of an insight of the life and doings of this wonder- 
 full man. The gardens are about n a par with those' of Versailles in 
 France with the numerous fountains and statuary etc., all through 
 this extensive place. The ride to L from about ten in the morning . 
 to five in the afternoon and was a day well spent. 
 
 I left Berlin on Sunday about eleven o'clock for the long trip 
 to Stockholm over the already fa m ous Sassnitz-Trelleborg car ferry 
 .across the Baltic Sea. We arrived at Sassnitz at four o'clock af- 
 ter a nice ride through North Ger m any where the cars were shifted 
 on a mammoth ferry boat from th e rear, the front of the boat be- 
 ing closed in with a sharp iron prow, to breast the heavy seas. 
 It took about four hours to cross the distance being nearly seventy 
 miles and at Trelleborg the boat was turned around going into the 
 dock backwards and the cars run off and the train made up for the 
 run to Stockholm a distance of four hundred miles. The Custom 
 House officers inspected you on t a€ boat before you landed so that 
 there was no delay from that eaus e . This new and fine ferry was on- 
 ly opened a couple of years ago both the Emperor of Germany and 
 the King of Sweden being present it being dedicated with great cere- 
 aaony. At Malmo a short distance from the port the train was broken 
 
up, trams leaving from here to g© to Copenhagen, Christiana, and to 
 iStoekfosilm azwl it was here I had my first experience with the Swed- 
 ish sleeping scare. The railroads are owned by the government. 
 
 The sleeping ears .are first and second class, the rates of fare of 
 the one feeing double the other. I paid six krone to Stockholm (1.50) 
 fm second class the only difference being in the number of the berths 
 m. the coaipartaent, each compartment had doors which locked and 
 com. id be completely shot off from the rest ©fj the car. Outside the 
 door ©a the side was a little bronze holder which had a metal slip 
 in it designating first or sBCrOad class, the slips being reversible, first 
 class being printed on one side, and second on the other. Inside there 
 was rather, wide comfortable seats ran the length of the compartment 
 the back of the lower seat liftings up and being hooked to the ceiling 
 by chains making an upper berth so that each compartment could 
 (Contain four persons. To make it first class, only the lower berths 
 were sold. It might happen if travel was light you would buy second 
 class and yet really get first class accommodations as there would no 
 be enough tickets sold to occupy the uppers. The conductor of the 
 tain brought in a blanket some sheets and pillows and it really 
 made up a fairly comfortable berth though it was only about two 
 and a hali feet wide, with nothing on the side to prevent you jjrom 
 rolling off should it happen you had the nightmare while you slept. 
 So you wanted to be careful what you ate before going to bed. I slept 
 very ioomfort&My and enjoyed the ^ide very much. We were fast go- 
 ing Itoriii and it <did not get dark until after nine o'clock and the sun 
 rase about .three as we were so much farther north than when we 
 went to sleep. 
 
 I arrived in Stockholm af nine o'clock in the morning and feel- 
 ing soiled .and tired went out to get a bath and was very much sur- 
 prised to have lady attendants who performed all the necessary 
 bath details including the rubbing an d drying. I found this was the 
 custom in Sweeden and nothing w as thought of it. the attendants be- 
 ing mostly niidd'e aged married women. 
 
 There is a -travel guide made small for the pocket edited by E. 
 E. Stedmam that sells for one dollar and a quarter that is one of the 
 best condensed helps you can get for a quick trip through Europe. 
 The money ot Sweden is the same f 0r all the Scandinavian Peninsu- 
 la which consists of .the countries Q f Sweden, Norway and Denmark, 
 though each country issues her own currency the silver and the gold 
 and copper and the state money of paper goes in each others country 
 without question. The unit of value is the crown (or Krone) which 
 is worth about 26 cents and that is divided up into the one hundred 
 parts called Ore with the usual small eopper and silver coinage. 
 
 Stockholm is a tine progressive c ity oft 350,000 inhabitants, and still 
 growing steadily, building going on all the time. It has many 
 factories of all kinds. The streets are well kept. The town is some- 
 what hilly strictly level spots being few. It is often dubbed the 
 Venice of the North on account of the numerous waterways and is- 
 lands but does not have any Of the canals like Venice. Tiny flat 
 boats propelled by steam run through the various waters to carry 
 passengers around to the islands and various landing places. Tele- 
 phones are tound on the various street corners enclosed in a small 
 
159 
 
 lattice work which for two cents you. can talk any place in the dis- 
 trict. The telephone service is very cheap here and in a high state 
 of perfection, far ahead of the United States. In Stockholm there is 
 a telephone for every 6 persons. The rates are very low, from 50 
 cents to one dollar a month for a phone- 
 Besides the city itself there are many surrounding points of 
 beauty and interest reached mostly by boats. The Quaint costumes 
 are rarely seen outside of the waitresses in the Beergardens and the 
 aura-its. The D.jurgarden and Skansen is well worth a visit part 
 being the Zoological Garden and the other a beautiful park with 
 the life of the country from the time of dark ages all carefully de- 
 picted by huts, camps, colonies, etcmaking a fine exhibition of the 
 progress and growth of civilization from the earliest time. The Bio- 
 iosioal museum here being the only one of its kind in the world. 
 For three} months in the summer it never gets real dark, at eleven 
 o'clock in the evening in June it is light enough so you c an see to 
 read a paper. I found very few petple who could speak English here 
 much to mv surprise, and it was even difficult to make them under- 
 stand the sign language. The railway fares arc peculiar, the longer 
 the distance traveled She less proportionate rate of fare, twelve hun- 
 dred miles costing you but ten dollars third class with a single extra 
 charge of fifty cents for express trains. . 
 
 A few of the other places of interest all well worth a. visit h 
 the Roval Palace. National Museum, Riksmuseum and several minor 
 ones Ml have a nominal charge from ten cents io a quarter oi a 
 dollars for admission. I happened to witness several thrilling accidents 
 on the water in one day. One a woman attempted to committ sui- 
 cide by jumping into the rapid current right near the palace and after 
 drifting some little distance was saved by a rapid moving police boa,. 
 Just before that in the afternoon one of the little ferry boats ran 
 down a motor boat and nearly cut it in two, and sank it, but tne 
 plucky fellow in it, held on to the tie rope of the motor boat until res- 
 cued, to save it from being lost, though he nearly lost his life m 
 doing it Another time a motor boat coming down the swift current, 
 also near the palace, got crosswise in it and upset, and two men and a 
 woman were thrown in the water but they were rescued by the po- 
 lice boats, that are always handy for emergencies of this kind. 
 
 o, — 0- 
 
16ft 
 
 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. 
 
 I left Stockholm at 9.15 P. M. taking a sleeper to Christiana- a runs 
 of about 500 miles arriving about eleven the next day. The town is 
 rather a sleepy old place of about 80,000 population does not seem to 
 he improving and like the rest of the Norway living off the tourists. 
 The natives it seems all leave the country that can, to come to Amer- 
 ica, there being over four million Norwegians in America at the pres- 
 ent time, and only about two million and a half in Norway. The Uni- 
 versity here is rather a famous one and occupies a good many build- 
 ings. There are a coutple of museums of the usual order but noth- 
 ing of large interest in them except the exhibits of the dress, fishing 
 and hunting implements of the Northmen and some of the imple- 
 ments etc., of the early Yikings. 
 
 The one exhibit that interested me most of all was one of the 
 old "Viking ships that had been lately unearthed and restored in 
 part, and was on exhibition. The custom with them was when some- 
 body of importance died, to bury them in one of the ships and on the 
 land, digging a large hols and covering the vessel over completely 
 with earth for a mound. This one on view was evidently one of the 
 royal family there were so many things of value found with i ; t and 
 the ship was so large namely seventy feet long, and sixteen feet 
 wide, with places for thirty oars. It had happened to be buried in 
 a clay and for that reason was preserved for all these centuries the 
 time of the ship being estimated at about 800 A. D. It is all the more 
 interesting when it is known undoubtedly that America was first vis 
 ited by these roving Norsemen in some of these ships about 1000 A. D> 
 
 English speaking people are found here and everywhere else in 
 Norway in great numbers and no trouble was had getting along at all 
 on that account, even at every little railroad station and on the 
 trains they all seem to know the language. It is because there are 
 so many Americans and English travel in that" country during the 
 summer months, and much shipping [between Norwegian and Eng- 
 the ports, makes a knowledge of the language somewhat compulsory, 
 I stopped at the Grand Hotel but found it a poor one and inclined to 
 gouge. The next time I used the Hotel Scandinavie a little nearer- 
 the depot and found it much better.. 
 
 There being so little of interest in Christiana I did not tarry 
 long but left for Trondjhem whicfr is straight north, about four o'- 
 clock in the afternoon, a ride of 500 miles. At Hamar one hundred 
 miles from Christians we transferred to a littfe narrow guage railroao 
 the guage of which I dont think was over two and a half feet. The 
 stars were very diminutive, in the s-leepers of the train, there was* & 
 
The Viking Ship at Christiana, Norway 
 
 The Meriden Column at Hammerfest, Norway 
 
161 
 
 narrow seat for one only on either side of the centre isle, and the 
 latter were made up into single berths that gave you no room to 
 turn over, but having become used to sleeping on narrow berths I 
 managed to get a good nights rest, though it was not dark at midnight, 
 and the sun rose at two o'clock in the morning we having gone north 
 so rapidly. The country through which the railroad ran was mostly 
 hilly, somewhat picturesque, but only partially used and many abandon 
 ed farms were noticed. There was some lumber operations going on 
 there, being a good deal of standing timber, but of a stunted growth, 
 the logs being small. 
 
 I arrived in Trondjhem the next Thursday the sixteenth of June 
 at seven o'clock, left the train immediately and started to see the 
 place. The town is progressing, ami being the largest town in the 
 world that high north is of some interest, for the great amount of 
 shipping there, with three lines of railroad, a large industral college 
 just building, and a fine old cathedral, a magnificient specimen of 
 architecture being all one material, a grey stone and handsomely carv- 
 ed. There is the ruin of an old fort on a hill overlooking the town 
 and a visit to the great Lerfossen Falls about seven miles from the 
 town with their large power plants are all of interest. There are a 
 couple of small museums of slight interest but one day spent in the 
 town if you are busy covers it all. 
 
 I soon hunted the wharf to find what sort of a boat I was going 
 to make my home in for the next week, and found the Kong Harold 
 a v LU y nice staunch up to date little craft, with good accommodations 
 and a very pleasant, affable and obliging crew of officers and men 
 'The name of the ship was much easier to pronounce than the name 
 of the line to which the ship belonged it was (set your teeth) "Det 
 Nordi-nfjeldske Dampskibseiskab" a nice pleasant mild one to go to 
 bed dreaming about. 
 
 The boat sailed at ten P. M., in the evening while the sun was 
 still high in the heavens and a large crowd was down to see us off, ft 
 being) the first trip of the season for her and there being many local 
 people on this trip, for all of the berths were not engaged like iti was 
 for the later trips in the summer. The farther we got north it became 
 rather cold as the weather after we crossed the Arctic Circle was 
 sharp and damp, with occasional rains and fog, and I soon felt ft 
 with only summer clothing, and no overcoat, the trip having being 
 planned sort of unexpectedly, and after I had packed all my trunks 
 and shipped them to Hamburg. The most of the passengers were 
 Norwegians, used to the weather and having heavy Wraps, did not 
 mind it, but the few Americans and English on board did, so I final- 
 ly went to the Captain and asked him to warm up one room we could 
 go to toget the chill off and he did so. I heretofore had been going 
 in alongside the smoke stack and standing against it to get warm. 
 
 I had a forward stateroom large enough for four, but there was 
 only two of us in it, so that it was finewith plenty of room to spread 
 your baggage out. All the berths on the boat are lowers, there be- 
 ing none at all having uppers which made all the rooms rather pLeas 
 ant. Dr. Martin P. Rindlaub, Jr., of Fargo, was my lucky drawing 
 for a roommate a very genial, companionable fellow and we got a- 
 iong v ery nicely together. On Friday at noon we passed Torghattan 
 
162 
 
 an island on which is a high mountain peak with an enormous nat- 
 ural tunnel right through the centre of it. We did not land this 
 time but did so coming back after a climb got up inside and climbed 
 through to the other side of it. No explanation can be had of the or- 
 gin of it. At six thirty Hesmando (or Horseman) Island was passed 
 so named from it looking at a distance like a man on horseback and 
 at this point we crossed the Arctic Circle. About eight o'clock we turn- 
 ed into a fjord to visit the Svartisen Glacier one of the largest in. 
 the World in extent, being thirty five miles long and from ten to fif- 
 teen wide. It isan enormous bodyof snow and ice. We landed and 
 took a climb over part of it but it began to rain so we hurried baen 
 to the ship, but did not get there before we all had gotten a pretty 
 good dulcking. 
 
 Even here in this wild place with not a habitation in sight we 
 found the native with his post cards for sale, as wtell as some other 
 small trinkets of the country. The next day at the table we found a 
 pretty sailors ribbon at oup plates with the name of the boat on it 
 and also a very pretty scarf pins for the men and brooch pins for the 
 ladies, enameled with the initials of the line. The Captain, B. Arnet 
 by name, was a fine old fellow a typical Norseman, as we could pict- 
 ure him in the days of the Vikings, and genial and good natured to a 
 fault, doing everything that could be wished to please his passengers. 
 It had begun to get cold after we left the Arctic Circle and the ther- 
 mometer stood 38 degrees all day. The day before while passing 
 through some of the narrow channels we were told to get some let- 
 ters or cards ready and they would be put in a bottle and mailed by 
 being thrown off the ship, and a boat would come along and collect 
 them, we did so and they arrived at their destinations all right. 
 
 All day long we were passing pretty pieces of scenery consisting 
 of islands, mountains, fjords, etc., particularly the Lofeten Isles. A- 
 bout seven o'clock we landed at Tromso where the boat stayed for a 
 few hours Which gave us an opportunity to get off and observe a 
 very prosperous little town, with much small shipping principally in 
 the fishing industries. Large quantities of salmon were dried and 
 cured for the market, they were hung on frames and sun cured and 
 covered an acre of ground. We saw here the first Lapps, a small, 
 dirty, half ignorant race most with eye diseases, they had trinkets for 
 sale at pretty nearly any price you wished to pay. Leaving about ten 
 we ran all night (or rather day if the light is taken into considera- 
 tion) and early next morning arrived at the village of Hammerfest, 
 the farthest north town in the world It is a village located on a well 
 sheltered bay and contains about two thousand inhabitants. Fishing 
 and tourists seem to be the chief industries here. The long three 
 months night of winter they have here they just hibernate as it 
 were, seeing nobody from the outside world, for nearly five months, 
 as everything is frozen up during that time. 
 
 A visit was made to the Meriden column, which is a bronze col- 
 umn on a pyramid of stone with a ball or globe on top in bronze, and 
 with the world outlined on it. It was located there by the Norwegian an 
 Swedish governments as an established place from which measure- 
 ments of time and distance can be taken. We left Hammerfest a 
 bout noon and m the af*ernoon passed close to what it called the 
 
iJird Rock. K is- a proinolory of rock that when first seen looks 
 white, and on closer inspection is found to be covered so close with 
 birds that it is- given that appearance-. When we drew up real close 
 I tie captain had a gun fired and for a few minutes you could not 
 see the sky so thick was the cloud of birds that flew from it. 
 
 We arrived at North Cape in the evening at six o'clock and ai- 
 l.'r steaming ar'oftind for a little wnile finally went into a hay back 
 of the headland and were landed for a climb of about one thousand 
 feet up a very steep mountain to view the midnight sun, a sort of a 
 path zigzaged back and forth upward with ropes planted to act as 
 hand rails to climb and keep from railing and after a strenous climb 
 we arrived at the top and a walk of about half a mile came to the 
 top of the promotory where you nould see off for many miles. A 
 little building is erected (here for shelter, and a couple of fellows 
 come from across country and have some post cards (of course) and 
 Irinkeis and champagne for sale. We wanted hot coffee more than 
 chaanpajne and the shelter f the building felt, good, as a piercing 
 cold gale was blowing. A monument bis also been erected here in 
 honor of the visit of the German Emperor a couple years before, and 
 the name of his yacht HohenzoIIern was painted high on the cliff by 
 a couple of daring sailors. As it was near twelve o'clock when wie 
 arrived it was light as day. but the sky was covered with clouds, and 
 we were lamenting our fate that we would not see the midnight sun 
 from the North Gape that so many had made the journey to see, but 
 about 12.30 we were rewarded for our patience and travel by a break 
 for only a few minutes in the clouds, and we saw the sun lo our 
 great joy. 
 
 We sailed from the North Gape about two in the morning. Those 
 who remained on the boat during oujr trip to the top of the moun- 
 tain went fishing and caught many fine salmon of which that bay a- 
 bounds. 'The Government has granted a temporary post office dur- 
 ing the summer at the North Cape so that cards can be mailed from 
 the North Gape. It is the northern-most point of continental land in 
 the world being located 71 .11' degrees North which is about the 
 same latitude as the upper part of Greenland. 
 
 We arrived at Lyngenseidt about six in the evening of the 20th. 
 H is located on the pretty Lyngen fjord with its magnificent scenery, 
 and we landed to visit the Lapp encampment that is located near 
 there during the summer months with generally a very large herd of 
 reindeer, but these we missed as they had not arrived as yet from 
 Sweden, on account of the high waters and we saw only a couple of 
 families of the Lapps living in their cone shaped huts made of the 
 branches of trees and covered with sod and mud. 
 
 Leaving here we passed Tromso a^ain early the next morning and 
 sailing past the beautiful Raftsund mountain and its bay and toward 
 evening went into the pretty but majestic Troldfjord. This cleft in 
 the rocks was at one place but about fifty feet wide and our boat of 
 thirty went in beween the mountains whose both sides rose straight 
 up for about one thousand feet so that a loosened stone could conn 1 
 down and hit the ship. The Captain said the water was hundreds of 
 feet deep showing what a great split in the rock this was. After going 
 into a small valley where some pretty waterfalls were seen, and lots 
 
164 
 
 ffl mow,, the sliip was backed carefully around and got oust safely 
 
 On Wednesday the 22nd we ag;ain reached Torghattan and this 
 feime landed and climbed it. That evening at the dinner table I had 
 at the suggestion of Mr. Robert Miller, agent of the line, gotten up sev- 
 eral fake Marconi telegrams, the reading of which made some amuse 
 ment all having answers attached and he turned a joke on me by read 
 ing one onme. That evening none went to bed early an\d the weather 
 being mild and the sun bright,, kept us until late on deck. 'This also 
 being the lastnight on board Mr. Miller requested me to make the 
 address at the Captain's dinner, though there were so many Norwe- 
 gians on board, they nearly all understood English; so I did it in about 
 a five minute talk, thanking the Qaptain' on behalf of the whole par- 
 ty for his always genial companionship and the looking after the 
 welfare of. his passengers and several things along those lines. Short 
 talks were made by some of the others and the Captain. 
 
 As the boat had had no certificates of crossing the Arctic Circle 
 and nothing had been done in the way of making a celebration about 
 it, I made the suggestion that something] should be done and at the re- 
 quest of Miller, drew up a small design and certificate which was 
 translated into Norwegian and duplicate copies made on a hectograph. 
 We gave all the party sea names and made up some doggerel on each 
 fitting the name and the one named, and that evening late the com- 
 pany were assembled in the dining room, the Captain read out the 
 name and presented the certificateWhich he had duly attested and seal 
 ed; the doggerel, was read with the calling of the names creating con- 
 siderable fun and amusement. We ailso had games on the deck of var- 
 ious sorts, Capt. Arnet joining in tue fun and really leading it. Out- 
 side of the cold we had a very pleasant and agreeable trip and all 
 enjoyed it very much. 
 
 We arrived at Trondjhem the ne.-d morning at seven and imme- 
 diately took the train arriving at Christiana at 11 P. M., where I stay- 
 ed for the night, and the next morning Friday the 24th I took the 
 train for Copenhagen via Goteburg and Helsingborg, arriving at mid- 
 night, at Copenhagen after a fine and interesting ride,, crossing two 
 ferries during the trip. 
 
Hagenbeck's Arctic Exhibit at Hamburg 
 
 Interior Marken, Holland Home Showing Beds in Wall with Children's 
 
 Lower Down 
 
165 
 
 CHAPITER XXVI. 
 COPENHAGEN to LOlNDON via HOLLAND and PARIS. 
 
 I was very much interested in Copenhagen and walked the city all 
 day. I visited the fine Thorwaldsen Museum containing so many fir, e 
 masterpieces by that brilliant sculptor as well as many valuable paint 
 ifigs and other sculpture. It is a very prettily laid out city, and is 
 clean and progressive and has an animated aspect to the tourist, and 
 . • riah in many institutions of learning and science. There are 
 several churches of fine architects ral beauty, and several valuable 
 '-Hi. iions i n museums; but the Roseniyurg Castle, a family museum 
 of the Oldenburg dynasty and is a remarkably picturesque building 
 of the Elizabethan stylo, in filled inside with a rich collection of 
 tries, furniture, jewels, plate and pictures and relics of all kinds 
 Of that time and was to me the point of greatest interest, in the city. 
 
 In the evening I visited the Tivoli, a fine concert garden and 
 Coney Island as it were. It was still light until after ten o'clock 
 here so that you could use a lot of time in seeing the oity. The mon- 
 ey of Denmark as I said before, was the same as Norway and Swe- 
 den. I left the next morning for Hamburg' on the ten thirty train 
 and arrived there at 8;30 in the evening after another fine ride Gross- 
 ing twto long ferries as before. This is a sturdy up to date Ger- 
 man city and very interesting to travel about. The things that in- 
 terested me most here was the famous Hagenback Animal Garden a 
 large piace built up into natural scenery for animals. For instance 
 the lions were seemingly out in the open walking around without the 
 sight of any obstruction to keep them from coming to you, their 
 den having a high rocky background inside of which were the inside 
 dens or shelters. The real separation from the public was an un- 
 seen ditch over which it was said they were afraid to try and leap, 
 the sides being of unequal height but it gave you the shivers to 
 have them out in the open and so close. One other striking thing 
 of the many in this interesting park was what was called the North- 
 land Panorama; the seals and walruses were below, right above where 
 it looked as though they could come right over and get their natural 
 food, the seals, were about fifteen fine specimens of the Polar bear, 
 but there was also a deep unseen ditch between them and the seals, 
 and further up the rocky panorama were a herd of reindeer, also 
 out of harms way from the bear, but could not be seen. 
 
 Thewhole ptace had the largest lot of fine specimens of the animal 
 life as could be seen anywhere, and in these surroundings, was well 
 
f8$ 
 
 worth a visit from, a long distance. There was afeo attached 1&. the 
 park a wi'd west Indian show, seemed funny Lo see Indians in 
 Europe. They gave wild west performances several times daily. The 
 days stay in Hamburg was not so pleasant as it was raining most of the 
 tirae, but I had to make use of the timeanyhow. 
 
 I left Hamburg at three o'clock for Amtersdam in HoLland pass- 
 ing through Osnabruck where I had to change oars, it was the day 
 after the wrecking of the Zeppelin airship there, by a wind storm on 
 a lull, it could be seen from the car windows. Arrived at Am- 
 sterdam at 10;OO P. Mi The next morning as it was raining I rent- 
 ed an umbrella and went over a good deal of the business portion o$ 
 the city. Always having had an inclination to see some of the north. 
 country of Holland, where the people with their quaint costumes and 
 customs i.ome from, about ten o'clock I purchased a ticket for a trip 
 to the Isle of Marken and the dead cities of the Zuyderzee. The ride 
 included trips on a steam boat, motorboat. sailing boat, and house 
 boat on the canal, as well as steam and electric trams* quite a variety 
 of means of travel for one day. 
 
 A guide was furnished and the total cost of the days traveling 
 Was but three Guilders ($1.20). The towns visited are Nieuwen/Jam r 
 Buiksloot, one of the oldest villages of Waterland, Broek, with its 
 interesting old church and cheese factories and Monnikendam with its 
 famous old belfry and clock. Here we Left the tram and took a motor 
 boat for the ride across the Zuyder Zee to the Isle of Marken, it was 
 very foggy and choppy and even that short ride made some uncom- 
 fortable. Marken one of the most picturesque places left in the world' 
 with the quaint houses hundreds of years old, with their beds look- 
 ing like a cupboard in the wiall, up high for the older people and lit- 
 tle cubby holes in under for the children and babies. The dress of 
 the men with their peculiar woolen shirts and large baggy trousers, 
 and wooden shoes and the women With their hair chopped short and 
 covered with lace caps, their short tight waists and very large baggy 
 skirts, wooden sabots and their peculiar gait made it all a picturesque 
 sight, just like you, see in so manypamtingjs of Holland life. The 
 children, you could not tell the boys from the girls until well grown, 
 but some of the young girls had those prety bright healthy, high col 
 ored, faces seen in many an artists sketch of that interesting country. 
 Leaving Marken a few of the party risked a sail boat for the ride 
 to Vollendam while some would notbeing too badly scared by the rough 
 choppy sea. We had a great sail though sometimes the gunwhale 
 was nearly under, but the expertness with which the fellow handled 
 that large clumsy boat was wonderful, taking it right through a small 
 entrance in the breakwater under full sail, and bringing it right up 
 to the wharf with hardly a shock. At certain times the Island of 
 Marken is wholly covered with' water, a high north wind and an in- 
 coming tide raising the sea so that the people are often marooned m 
 their houses for a couple of days, and sometimes on the roofs, the 
 down stairs being afloat, this happens once or twice a year. They are 
 all fishermen and many a life is lost througih their going out to sea 
 in the open boats and getting caught in a storm. 
 
 Vollendam is also a picturesque place, the little hotel there hav- 
 ing many artist boarders nearly all the time, the walls of the house 
 were covered with sketches given to the genial proprietor and his 
 
167 
 
 family. The village is built on both sides of a huge dyke that keeps 
 the sea from the land, which is a few feet lower and from which, the 
 seepage and rain water is pumped out by windmills that stud the 
 country so much. From Vollendam we took a v ery tiny house boat 
 that a man pulled along, sometimes assisted by a sail, the small canal 
 about eight feet wide, to the old village of Edam from where most 
 of the famous cheese of that name comes, the canal is about three miles 
 long and it took a little less than an hour to make the trip. The 
 canals are very old as well as all the buildings, it is now one of the 
 so called, dead cities of Holland, all the great commerce of former 
 days having departed. From here the tram was taken to Monniken- 
 dam and then retrace our ride to Amsterdam where we arrived about 
 five o'clock well pleased with that picturesque little journey to anoth- 
 er world as it seemed. 
 
 On my arrival in Amsterdam the guide we had, had a brother 
 who was a diamond cutter and he ,yave me a letter to him, and with 
 directions I finally found the place and was very much interested in 
 that work, they seem to be very expert in picking out the right places 
 for the many cuts they have to make, and knowing the stones in the 
 rough , they look to me like ordinary pebbles. It is a very tedious 
 process. The roulgh stone is embodied in a soft metal, that has been 
 heated to form a grip for the stone it is then fastened to an arm which 
 allows the stone to rest on a rapidly revolving disc, on which oil and 
 diamond dust are applied, this soongrinds a flat place on the rough 
 stone called a facet, there are from thirty to forty facets on a diamond, 
 and each time the stone has to be melted from the metal plug, and 
 set so as to expose another surface to the wheel. Ome man will, operate 
 from three to four discs, watching each carefully, as the least little 
 cut too far would ruin the stone and it would have to be done all ovei 
 again. They have to split an irregular stone to get something fit to 
 cut for a perfectly formed diamond and there again care has to be used 
 to get the proper cleavage so the splitting would not ruin it. 
 
 The money of Holland is the Guilder or Florin, being given both 
 names, it is divided up into one hundred cents; the Gulder is forty 
 cents American money, making two and a half Holland cents equal to 
 one cent American. 
 
 Amsterdam is well interspersed with canals on which a great 
 deal of freight is carried. It is a prosperous commercial city but 
 nothing of great interest except the variety of leanings of the build- 
 ings. The city being built on piles they often sink and one house will 
 lean out over the street several feet and the next lean baek thus giv- 
 ing an odd appearance to the street lines. 
 
 Left at 9 the next morning for Brussels arriving at one o'clock and 
 immediately went out to the World's Exposition that was being held 
 there and I practically covered; ail of it by eight o'clock in the even- 
 ing. It was much smaller than any of our American World's Fairs 
 we have he(d, and the really only thing excelled in were the many fine 
 display of women's dresses etc. The usual midway had some very good 
 things. As I had been out to theBattlefield of Waterloo ten years 
 before and had seen some of the principal buildings and galleries, I 
 hunted up the Wirz gallery containing the works of that well known 
 painter of the horrid that is about all you can say as nearly every pic- 
 
168 
 
 ture gave you the shivers somethin g on the nature of Dante's Inferno. 
 His depicture of expression of horror, and .kindred feelings were ex- 
 ceptionally fine. The Animal part of the National; Museum was very 
 good as well as the fossil exhibit. 
 
 The main street of Brussels at night was very finely lighted and 
 made a very pretty sight. The Palais de Justice is one of the finest 
 buildings in the world. Everybody was on the big make on account of 
 the Exposition. I left at noon for Paris arriving there at five. The 
 customs at the French (border were very strict, and I saw them handle 
 some peoples baggage pretty roughly. They are very watchful on to- 
 bacco, perfumes, matches and liquors one is only allowed ten cigars. 
 I saw them take one man's stuff and dump on the scales like a lot 
 of ashes, cigars, tobacco, cigarettes all in one mess and charged him 
 nearly four dollars duty and the whole lot was not worth more than 
 than one dollar and fifty cents. Forty cents a match is the duty if 
 you don't declare what you have and you are only allowed a broken 
 box at that. 
 
 The cigars and tobacco of the French manufacture are abomnia- 
 ble and of course you pay a small fortune for a good American cigar. 
 The best and cheapest cigars are found in Holland were good ones 
 can be gotten for from one to threje cents each, and it is the only 
 place in Europe where you can get them reasonable. There is lots to 
 interest one in Paris in the life and many other things. I stayed a 
 couple of days, went to some places I had been before and also some 
 new ones walking around considerably and using the American Express 
 rubber-neck wagon. A list of the points of interest would take up 
 too much room, there are so many and can be gotten from any guide 
 book. Tbe French unit of money is the franc worth about twenty 
 cents, which is divided up into one hundred parts called centimes 
 with the usual metal coinage. The Belgian money is also the same 
 as France with the usual copper, nieikel and silver small coinage, but 
 the nickel pieces were different from all other places, in that they 
 had holes through the centre and in that way one could tell the 
 same sized nickel and silver coins apart at once by the feel, which 
 I thought a very good idea and could be well copied by the United 
 States. My rough opinion was that Paris was living on its reputation 
 and tourists catering entirely to them in every way. 
 
 I left Paris on an express train for London vi a the Dover Calais 
 route having traveled all the others before. Left Paris at ten o'clock 
 arriving at London at five. We hada quick and interesting ride all 
 through France, and took the boatat Calais which is a small side wheel 
 er and then out across ways the channel makes it somewhat rough in 
 nearly any kind of weather. A few were bothered, but this was an 
 unusually calm day so most escaped by staying on deck, though a few 
 was very glad to see the chalk cliffs on England hove in sight. The 
 tide here has a rise and fall of about twenty feet, making a great 
 variation in the landing places at the wharves. 
 
169 
 
 CHAPTER XXYII. 
 AROUND GREAT BRITAIN and HOME. 
 
 London is good old London, intending at all times, and I will say 
 but little about it; spent two days there before igping to Scotland, and 
 about a week after returning from Ireland, enjoying every minute of 
 it in the long walks, except when my feet played out. On Monday 
 July the fourth I bought a ticket at Cooks or rather a bunch of tick- 
 ets that took one, from London to Edinboro, Glasgow, Belfast and to 
 the Giant's Causeway, down to Dublin across to Chester and Liver- 
 pool and back to London for $24.80, a distance of about fifteen hundred 
 miles. I left London on the night of the fourth at 9.30 renting a 
 pillow at the station for sixpence (12 cts) and caught a compartment 
 and stretched out and rested pretty well to Edinboro where we arrived 
 a J seven the next morning, the pillow is just left on the train. 
 
 I consider Edinboro one of the finest places to visit in Europe so 
 much of interest it seemed to me and so muchvariety and very pict- 
 uresque in every way. I also went out to the Forth Bridge on an 
 auto, they have auto busses now. instead of six horse tallyho's, and 
 make the trip much faster, around trip of about fifteen miles for a 
 shilling. This bridge is a wonder of the world, nearly two miles long, 
 and high in the air are steel tower piers that reach up into the sky 
 nearly three hundred feet. The Castle where Mary Queen of Scots was 
 confined at the one end of the old Edinboro with the surroundings on 
 top of the hill, and there are interesting points all the way down from 
 this hill along the ridge clear to the other end, where rests Holy 
 rood palace the home of Mary, with the place partly preserved, and 
 other parts in ruins, but containing many relics. 
 
 Edinboro is a lively busy place and is clean and not so mercenary 
 as is Glasgow. Having a letter of introduction from my friend Wat- 
 kins of Hongkong 32 degree Mason to John Forest the Grand Secretary 
 of the whole order in Scotland. I presented it and met a very esti- 
 mable gentleman, lunched at the University Club with him. I had in- 
 tended making the round trip through the Trossachs and Stirling Cas- 
 tle to Glasgow, but by the poor service at the Hotel Carlton, missed 
 my call and missed the train, so went direct to Glasgow, It is only 
 one hours ride from Edinboro to Glasgow amd a few hours in Glas- 
 gow is all that is necessary as there is little of interest except the 
 shipbuilding and the commerce, and the principal part of the latter 
 is the trying to extract shillings from your pockets. The things of in- 
 terest are the Municipally owned privileges of all sorts which practi- 
 cally pay all the taxes of the town and are run well at low rates. 
 
 Having enough of Glasgow in a few hours, I left at 4 o'clock to 
 Stranrear where you take the boat to Larne. the port for Belfast, a- 
 
170 
 
 cross the North Channel of the Irish Sea. Though we were in the o- 
 pen sea only about an hour and a half it was very rough, and nearly 
 all the passengers were under the weather though it bothered me 
 none whatever. The waves would strike the side of the boat and come 
 clear up over it, and it had a twisting pitching motion that was a ter- 
 ror to the weak ones. It is about an hours ride from Larne to Bel- 
 fast by train, arrived at ten in the evening. 
 
 Belfast is a greai city of industry, the enormous shipyards, the 
 linen mills, and many other factories, employ a large number of 
 people. It is typically Irish everywhere and there is nothing of in- 
 terest except the industries. It is not a pretty town like Edinboro, and 
 oeing level makes no pretty pictures I left the next morning for a 
 seventy mile ride to Port Rush, the nearest railroad point to the 
 Giant's Causeway which is about eight miles from Port Rush, and 
 that distance had to be formerly done in the famous Irish jaunting 
 ear the prince of back breakers, but now thank goodness, there is a 
 nice little electric railway with good service. The Post office for 
 the Giant's Causeway was Rush's Mills which interested me somewhat 
 and is especially renowned for the fine Whiskey distillery it has there 
 said to be the best in Ireland. I did not inquire to find if the pro- 
 prietors were relatives. 
 
 vThe scenery along the coast here is very beautiful the pictur- 
 esque rock formation being of interest and the causeway itself which 
 has to be walked over a distance, round trip from three miles to six 
 if you wish to go all over it. The curious rock formation is as 
 pictured, only the pillar effect is not as evenly made as the pict- 
 ures seem to show it. It is evidently of volcanic origin and the hexa- 
 gonal pillars were made and crystallized likely by the extreme pressure 
 from the cooling of the lava. The pillar effect abounds along the 
 coast at plaees for several miles. Iconsidered the journey worth while. 
 I arrived back at Belfast at six and left at ten for Dublin arriving there 
 at five in the morning. Dublin does not have much to interest the 
 old traveler, so one does not stay long, and going down to Kingston, 
 the port for Dublin, about five mile down took the boat for a ride of 
 sixty miles to Holyhead to Wales. The ride was a fine one across 
 the Irish sea, and the railroad ride through North Wales across the 
 famous tubular bridge along the pretty Welsh coast was well worth the 
 whole trip alone. I arrived in Chester at two in the afternoon and 
 started out to visit this, the real living old city of England, where it 
 is as it was four hundred years ago with the second story sidewalks, 
 the old city walls just as intact as they were w!hen the several battles 
 were fought outside its walls in the sixteenth century. The old arch- 
 itecture still prevails and the many fine ruins all made it well worth 
 the little time spent there, and I would advise by all means, every- 
 body going to England to visit Chester. 
 
 It is only a few miles from Liverpool to which I departed the 
 next morning and where I stayed a few hours, walking over the town 
 but the interesting things there is the magnificent dock system the 
 finest in the world, and can be seen best by taking a round trip 
 ticket on the elevated railroad that runs along the system for the whole 
 distance. In the Mersey were the many big liners lying, and hundreds 
 of large steamers were in drydocks along the wharf getting 
 
171 
 
 their hulls scraped and- painted and cargo loaded and anlloaffed! at the 
 same time^ 
 
 Liverpool being purely a commercial 1 city has a museum and aa 
 Art Gallery that are very good, butthere is- nothing mo?e of cna.1 in- 
 terest. I left at two for London arriving at six o'clock, and Venting 
 a room, took my time going around London* to wait for fine sail- 
 ing of the Kaiser Augusta Victoria on the fifteenth of July, and real- 
 ly to tell the truth getting anxious for it too. I met a good many of 
 the Cleveland people during my trip around London and renewed ac- 
 quaintances that had been broken for a few months. Visited all the 
 theatres, with the assistance of the credentials of the Dramatic Mir- 
 ror of New York, of which 1 have heen the correspondent so long. I 
 walked miles and miles daily and enjoyed it, visited" one old tavern 
 that was said to have been there as a tavern for six hundred years*. 
 I also visited the Japan British Exposition out at Shepherd's Bush, 
 but it was not so interesting to meas it might have been had I no is, 
 just came from Japan, but it brought back many recollections with the 
 familiar scenes etc. 
 
 The underground system in London is the best in the world, is 
 well handled and you can go nearlyanyplace. The bus system is still 
 as congested as ever and slow. Hanson taxi's are reasonable an«? 
 take you nearly anyplace quickly. 
 
 The money of Great Britain is nearly as bad as that of Turkey. 
 The unit is the pound worth about $4.85 divided into 20 shillings whieh 
 generally goes for a quarter in American money and that is divided 
 into 12 pennies or pence, worth t-'^o eents each, a penny being two 
 cents of our money. There are large copper pieces larger than opi- 
 oid two cent pieces were, and it does not take much to load you up, 
 as everybody expects the tip but the penny will do for the most of 
 them. They have the funny fashion of saying thank you when fchey 
 ask you the question or answer it. For instance one would say 
 "How much is that, thank you". You ask the policeman where some 
 place is and he would say "Down three blocks and turn to your right' 
 thank you"; and by the way the English bobby is the king of them 
 all. He seems to know everything and is obliging and polite. But 
 to @»o back to the money with the "tuppence Sir" and the 'Thrippeneo 
 and the 'saxpence' and the two and halfpenny "a bob sir"' a v arf 
 crown" and many others I have practially forgotten puts you at sea 
 worse than crossing the channel. Then the various pieces are many 
 and nearly every piece named different, many looking alike from the 
 different coinage,; bewilders one for some little time, a florin is 2 
 shillings while a half crown is two and a half shillings, and very near- 
 ly same size and only those names on the pieces. 
 
 The morning of the fifteenth dawned and made my heart beat 
 faster, and getting a cab went around after my sister Mrs. E. H. B. 
 Callaway, who had arrived in London a few days before from a trip 
 through Europe, after leaving the Cleveland at Naples, and drove gay- 
 ly away to Waterloo Station to take the nine o'clock train for South- 
 ampton where we took the steamer for home. On the platform wait- 
 ing for the boat train were many of the Cleveianders and much hand- 
 shaking was indulged in. 
 
 We arrived at Southampton about 1 o'clock and shortly after took 
 
172 
 
 the tender and went out to Kaiserin Agusta Victoria homeward bound 
 after six months of a strenuous life. The vessel was much larger 
 than the Cleveland being 720 feet long and was one that brought Mr. 
 Roosevelt home in the trip before this one when there were also 160 
 of the Cleveland Globe trotters on it. Being acquainted with so 
 many of the passengers in advance, of the Cleveland people returning 
 there being 72 of the Cleveland tourists on board, made it much more 
 pleasant and the most of us obtaining tables in one corner of the 
 dining room it was a sort of a reunion. 
 
 As the Captain, Mr. Ruser, was very obliging and offering to 
 do anything he could to make our trip pleasant, I had notices printed 
 calling a meeting of the Cleveland people and nearly all turned up, 
 Prof. Trueblood was selected chairman and we held three different 
 sociable meetings a sort of a Travellers Club, in which the thanks of 
 all were due principally to our worthy Professor, for the recitations, 
 and stories told by him. 
 
 I had at my table besides my sister and myself Mr. and Mrs. John 
 Dnrris of Huntingdon, Pa., and Mr. and Mrs. Hamilton Humes of Jer- 
 sey Shore, Pa. On Monday night the eighteenth we had a dance on 
 deck which all enjoyed very much. Outside of our meetings, Bridge 
 and the Auction pools in the smoking room put in the evenings, and 
 the run seemed short after our three months on the Cleveland, the 
 daily runs were from 425 to 445 miles per day. We arrived in New 
 York bay early in the morning and was interested in watching the 
 steerage get through the quarantine. I forgot to mention several of 
 the Cleveland stewards were on the ship and seemed glad to see us as 
 also was our second officer Herr Blume, who Was the second officer 
 of the Kaiserin. The steerage had some wags among them and they 
 got up an improvised band that drew coins from the first class passen- 
 gers above and much fun was had, seeing the scrambling for coins by 
 the children, until a stop had to be put to it by the officers as they 
 were hurting themselves. 
 
 The worry and thought uppermost in everybodys mind was the cus- 
 toms and what would be done with them. I had filled my blanks that 
 were give me out with as much as they would hold and the rest 
 miscellaneous.making a total of about $85.00 (you are allowed $100.00 
 but did not put in some of the cheap suits bought in the warm climates, 
 after considerable trouble I got my baggage together on the pier, the 
 steward having taken one piece to the wrong place. I was lucky in 
 happening to draw a genial inspector and about five minutes was all 
 it took to go through my four pieces and I was soon on my way rejoic- 
 ing, thoughsome others seemed to be having auite a time the way 
 their things were being thrown around the wharf. 
 
 We were a little slow getting into our dock as we had to wait for 
 the Cleveland to come out and turn down the river, on her trip to 
 Europe. Of course there was much waving from us, and cries of 
 Banzai seeming to bring hats and handkerchiefs into motion, though 
 the Cleveland was some distance away. The Goddess of Liberty look- 
 ed like a very fine lady and made our hearts beat some. It was not 
 quite so bad as one fellow I met in Venice who was having all kinds 
 of trouble and heartily sick of Europe and was making a bee line for 
 the States though he had only been over a couple of weeks. He said: 
 "my but wont that dear old Statue of Liberty look good to me, I could 
 
173 
 
 just giveher a g<ood hug and a kiss" a pretty big job. New, York was 
 sweltering and I soon got away from there to Philadelphia and home 
 after being away for 190 days and 1 certainly had traveled some. I 
 figure it up at something over foriy thousand miles. And finally 1 
 would be glad to take it all over, same crowd, ship and all, the lit- 
 tle discomforts that went with it are forgotten, nothing remains but 
 the thoughts you wish to remember and the good friendships that were 
 made and wont soon be forgotten. 
 
174 
 
 THE RYME. OF TJHERUSHING EIGS WE RODE, 
 By Albert Murdoch. 
 
 Twas on the good ship Cleveand, 
 We certainly were whirled 
 From Frisco's Bay to John Bull's Isle, 
 We sailed aroujnd the world, 
 
 From North and South, from East and West,* 
 From nearly every state, 
 We rushed by boat, we rushed by train, 
 To reach the Golden Gate. 
 
 Into the great mysterious East,, 
 We sailed for many a day; 
 
 Long dreary days they were to some, 
 
 Who fed the fishes on the way. 
 
 With whirling feelings and wistful gaze,,, 
 They looked into the deep; 
 Then hurriedly they stole below 1 , 
 Saying they needed sleep. 
 
 After what seemed a year or more, 
 We reached Hawaiian' Isles, 
 Those faces that were blanched with woe, 
 Were now wreathed into smiles. 
 
 But my story long delayed, 
 
 Of rigs we rode each place; 
 
 I now must tell, for each rig helped,. 
 
 In our mad and rushing race. 
 
 Our first, in Honolulu Fair, 
 To Pali we did reel, 
 To Walkiki, and Diamond Head* 
 In an automobile. 
 
 Now, some had weary days of woe. 
 In that lonely ocean run; 
 Others had days of kee n delight,. 
 Of sunshins and of fun. 
 
 But all Were up that morning fine,. 
 When first Japan we saw; 
 From Fuji's base we whirled away,. 
 Each in a jinrikisha. 
 
 Then in Hong Kong, great England's pride* 
 
 Sedate and stiff and fair; 
 
 We made our calls on friends we knew, 
 
 In a stately sedan chair. 
 
 In Uncle Sam's Manila town, 
 We docked one sunny, sultry <?ay; 
 And were hustled off by kith and kin* 
 In carromate and calesa. 
 
 -rom the "Wild man of Borneo-', 
 We found it hard to part, 
 And ere we did, some rode with glee,. 
 In his famous bullock cart. 
 
 In Batavia and Buitenzorg, 
 
 Though only for a block or so; j, 
 
175 
 
 We climbed with our unseemingly haste, 
 Into a dos-a-dos. 
 
 To another proud and lordly town, 
 We did with awe approach; 
 In English Singapore, with haste, 
 We rushed into a hacKney coach. 
 
 Then on to Burma, to fair Kan,goon, 
 We still kept up our hurry; 
 To see the elephant and Shwe Dagon, 
 We rushed into a gherry. 
 
 Again we must our manners mend. 
 Though not in silk and gioria. 
 For in Calci^tta's regal streets 
 We rode in a Victoria. 
 
 On a high Himalayan ridge, 
 To make it safe and handy, 
 For those who would not ride a horse 
 Was a coffin fashioned dan<jy. 
 
 The Maharaja of Benares, 
 
 So proud and so gallant; 
 Gave us his royal leave to ride, 
 Upon his elephant. 
 
 We crossed the burning plains of Hindus 
 In Clark's fast train de luxe, 
 And passed through many a famous scene. 
 We have read of in our books. 
 
 In fair Bombay so rich and proud, 
 
 t.xui many an English home; 
 
 We tried to quell our whirl ng haste. 
 And settle in a brougham. 
 
 Ov'r Egypt's hot and burning sands, 
 Mid screams of human monkeys. 
 We rode from Pyramids to Sphinx, 
 On camels and on donkeys. 
 
 Queenly Naples smiled on us. 
 Sweetly singing Good-a-day," 
 "Come quickly to my shops to buy. 
 In my new washed vettura." 
 
 In Gibraltar, grim and strong. 
 We stopped one balmy day, 
 And rode around the sights to see, 
 In an old Spanish shay. 
 
 In London town, mid smoke and fog, 
 A cabby us did nab; 
 And rush pell-men to our hotel, 
 In his best handsome cab. 
 
 Then in many an ocean steamer fast 
 The greyhounds of the sea, 
 We'll hurry home with all their speed, 
 Our loved ones there to see. 
 
 In North and South, East and West, 
 From Old New York to many a State, 
 WeMl ru£h in fastest Pullman trains. 
 To our homes we love the best. 
 
176 
 
 THE CHARGE OF THE ONE HUNDRED. 
 
 When we, Canton would see, 
 
 Hold Pioneers to be, 
 
 Heard we with doubtful glee, 
 
 Forward the one hundred! 
 
 At. four o'clock we woke, 
 
 From Morpheus' chains, we broke, 
 
 From tender on to boat, 
 
 Marched the one hundred. 
 
 Up through the mist so gray, 
 Longing for break of day, 
 Chanting) a doleful lay, 
 Rode the one hundred, 
 "Weak hearts grew cold with dread, 
 isir-ong men shook their head 
 But where our good guide led, 
 Followed the one hundred. 
 
 Up past the tiger isle, 
 "Wearing in heroic style 
 One sickly, ghastly smile, 
 Sailed the one hundred. 
 Their's not to reason why, 
 Their' s not to make reply, 
 Their's but to go and die 
 Noble one hundred. 
 
 Close to the wharf they drew, 
 Over, the rope they threw, 
 Upward petitions flew, 
 Prayers of the one hundred. 
 Into the face of foe, 
 Onto the streets they go, 
 Fearinpi that blood will flow, 
 Moved the one hundred. 
 
 Into the sedan chair, 
 Following the long, black hair, 
 Clark having paid the fare, 
 Rode the one hundred. 
 Chinese to the right of them, 
 Chinese to the left of them, 
 Chinese all eying them, 
 Went the one hundred. 
 
 Over the slippery stones, 
 Midst clang of growling tones, 
 Anticipating broken bones, 
 Dashed the one hundred. 
 Into the narrow srteet, 
 Daring the frowns they meet, 
 Way offering no retreat, 
 Rode the one hundred. 
 
 Eyes set with rigid stare, 
 Not looking anywhere, 
 "Set seeing sabres glare, 
 Went the one hundred. 
 Up to the city wall, 
 Into the genii's hall, 
 Past Women's feet so small, 
 Nobie one hundred. 
 
 Back from the city's dead, 
 Scarce hearing what was said, 
 Content at being led, 
 Not all the one hundredg. 
 Ten of the gallant crew, 
 Those cruel tyrants slew, 
 Into the streams they threw, 
 Some of the one hundred. 
 
 When at the close of day. 
 Slowly wenaing their way, 
 Far from their corps astray, 
 Came ten of the one hundred. 
 Too late to catch the boat, 
 Chanting a solem note, 
 Restored from the deadly moat, 
 Brave ten of the hundred. 
 
 O, fortune good and kind, 
 Another boat they find. 
 Leaving the hosts behind, 
 Rush ten of the hundred. 
 Fate robbed of glory fair, 
 Gave hope for deep despair, 
 Slew there the dread night-mare, 
 For ten of the hundred. 
 
 So, on the Cleveland's deck, 
 Saved from a dreadful wreck, 
 Restored limb and neck, 
 Stood the one hundred. 
 Now, they, the story tell, 
 How into the jawis of Hell, 
 Intrepidly and well, 
 Rode the one hundred. 
 
177 
 
 PERSONALS. 
 
 Dr. William C. Richardson of Tampa, Florida, was a delightful talker at the 
 Traveler's Club meeting's being a humorist as well as entertaining. 
 
 Mr. F.J . Howell of Hamilton, Ontario Can., and W. E. Jones of Chicago, 
 the 33rd degree Masons on the tour, the latter holding his patent from the Su- 
 preme Council of Mexico, signed by Pres. Diaz. 
 
 M r - E. C. Brown was quite a talentedamatuer in the photographic line ob- 
 taining many fine views of the subjects that he turned his camera toward with 
 so much care. He is a prominent pump ru&nvfacturer of Rochester, N. Y. 
 
 Mr. W. J. Dobson of Calgary, Canada familiarly known as "Calgary" v. a : 
 quite c.n assistant to the ladies in the/moto line, and in other ways. He did 
 not make a good start but later acquired more proficiency in the former art. 
 
 "Jack" Lederer of Balto., whoalways had a jolly greeting and a jolly 
 time, had a few serious moments when he was left with the party of nine la- 
 dies at Canton. His large shadow was a minus quantity durinp the time of 
 the ceremonies of crossing the Equator. 
 
 M,rs. Antoinette F. Beiger of Portland, Ore., gave a very pleasant and inter- 
 esting talk, and showed many of the curios she had obtained in Japan, 
 a previous visit before our arrival in that interesting country, and gave m: 
 pointers that were of help. Mr. Frizzellat the same time a'.Ko gave a short 
 talk of his former experiences in the sr„me country. 
 
 Miss Marjorie Hubbard of Hartford Conn., one of the belies of the cruise 
 has changed her last name to Hawley since coming home and still resides in 
 Hartford. 
 
 Miss Maude Miller of Salt Lake City has also taken unto herself a better- 
 half and now her last name is Taylor and they are living in San Francisco 
 
 Mr. Charles D. Clark of Peoria, 111., has been lecturing on the tour, around 
 through Illinois to a o^odly extent, pleasing large audiences. 
 
 Mr. Lafayette Hanchett of Salt Lake city is the general Manager or" t . 
 Samuel vN'ewhouse mining properties comprising several famous mines. 
 
 Judge Bartlett Tripp of South Dakota was a former Minister to Austria un- 
 der Cleveland. He was a fluent talker. 
 
 Prof. Thomas Trueblood of the University of Michigan, who is professor 
 of Elocution and Oratory there, often pleased the tourists with his many ex- 
 cellent recitations of stories and plays. 
 
 Miss Adele M. Parchen was posessed of a very fine voice, and added great- 
 ly to the entertainment of the cruisers by her beautiful singing. 
 
 The many popular young belles on the vessel offtimes wrought havoc v. it' 
 the hearts of some of the young men at various ports at which we stopped, sev- 
 eral times giving them some narrow escapes from being carried off with us. 
 
 Mrs. William H. King of Rockford, II., . was a very entertaining talker and 
 greatly interested as an amatuer pneu grapher. She gave several interesting 
 talks at the Travellers Club meetings. 
 
 Mi Paul S. Junkin of Creston, Iowa, wjrote a series of letters to his 
 home papers descriptive of what he saw, which was afterwards published in 
 
178 
 
 book form. They were well written and give good descriptions of those ob- 
 jects of interest, and of the impressions conveyed to his mind by many 
 things seen and met with during the journey. 
 
 Mr. L. A. Sherman who has held several offices under Uncle Sam, was 
 one of the poets of the cruise, of whom there were several, He could 
 not get over his curiosity the day the equator was crossed, but had to see 
 the fun that was going on, and thereby received a very good ducking. 
 
 Mr. T. A. Snider of Cincinnati, Ohio, is the well known "Snider Catsup" 
 milionaire. 
 
 The old adage that matches were made to heaven may be all right, but there 
 were a good many tried to be made on the Cleveland, the future success of 
 which as a Whole is still unknown. 
 
 Mr. C. W. Burgess of San Francisco, was a Commissioner from the state 
 of California in the interests of the Panama Exhibition to be held there in 
 
 Prof. G. H. Perkins is a well known geologist and holds the chair in that 
 science in the University of Vermont. He was very much interested as an 
 amatuer photographer and gave some good talks to the camera club. 
 
 Dr. William F. King, who even at his advanced age enjoyed the journey 
 very much, is the oldest College President in the Uniteu States in point of ser 
 vicehaving been President of Cornell Cdllege, Iowa, for more than forty years. 
 
 Dr. G. A. Van Wagenan of Newark, w bo gave several instructive talks to 
 the CameraClub and is quite an expert amatuer, is the head Medical Director 
 of the large Mutual Benefit Life insurance Co., of Newark, N. J. 
 
 Dr. Edwin H. VanPatten of Dayton, Wash., was a good instructor in the 
 Camera Club as well as a /apod talker at the Travellers Club meeting. 
 
 Mr. Chas. Koster of New York, wasQuite a clever cartoonist exhibiting 
 considerable art in the line. He is a prominent decorator of that City and 
 on the trip was a commissioner from New York in the interest of the proposed 
 1913 World's Fair. 
 
 Mr. Lyman H. Bagg of New York, is somethingof a writer, much of his 
 work being written in the bicycling magazines of old, under the non de plume 
 of "Karl Kron." 
 
 Mrs. Elizabeth H. B. Callaway was the necromancer of the tour. • Her abil- 
 ity at telling fortunes with cards and reading the palm delighting; many of 
 the younger ladies, and the middle aged widowers. 
 
 Mrs. Sarah L. Dorn, the one passenger who was on the Eastward voyage 
 and liked it so well, turned right around and went back on the Westward Cruise 
 and seemed to enjoy it as well if not more, than the first time. 
 
 Mr. Harold H. Herschberger formerly of Peoria who accompanied his aged 
 Uncle andAunt, Mir. and Mrs. Thos. Petherbridge is now a resident of Minne- 
 apolis. His ability as a stenographer and typewriter was of great assistance 
 to many on the ship. 
 
 Mrs. William J. Mooney who lost her husband on, and who was one of 
 the surviving passengers of the ill fated Republic, has again taken a husband 
 by the name of Mr. Dewfttt C. Frazier, and is residing at Spring Lake Beach, 
 New Jersey. 
 
 Mr. Hart Whitmore of La Porte, Ind who was both deaf and dumb, was un- 
 usually bright and good natured, and thoroughly enjoyed the trip despite 
 these disadvantages. 
 
 Mr. James Carlton Young the famous bibliophile of Minneapolis was very 
 active, and enjoyed seeing everything His main hobby is the collecting of 
 autographed works and manuscripts of well known writers, he posesses the lar- 
 gest library of the kind in the world. 
 
 Mr. Milton McCrea of Detroit, Mich., is one of the owners of the former 
 Scripps McCrea News Bureau, now the United Press Company. 
 
 Mr. Charles D. Clark of Peoria, 111 who took a prominent part in doings on 
 the ship is a well known wholesale Hardware merchant of his home town. 
 
 Hon. William G. Frizzell of Dayton, Ohio is a lawyer and ex-member of 
 the legislature of Ohio. He had writtena couple of books before the one of this 
 cruise on his travels. 
 
179 
 
 Rev. John W. Phillips of Binghampton . Nlisa pastor of a church i n that city 
 and was one of the most delightful speakiers on the cruise. 
 
 Mr. John T. Withers of Jersey City N - J->who delivered the interesting illus- 
 trated lecture on Trees is a well known landscape architect, and has favored 
 many of the cruisers since returning home with illustrated lectures of the 
 tour and on the "City Beautiful.'' 
 
 Rev. Thos. Uzzell of Denver, Col. who died since returning home, and who 
 is sincerely mourned by all, was a force ful and interesting talker, and always 
 drew large audiences. 
 
 Mr. James Mellon of Pittsburg, Pa., almost entirely recovered his health dur- 
 ing the tour and became a very strenuous amatuer photographer. 
 
 B. S. McLure of Wheeling, W. Va., was the wag of the vessel, hardly a 
 day passing that he did not spring something new in the joke or trick line. 
 
 Mrs. Ella Knowles Haskell of Butte.Mont., was the first woman attorney in 
 that state. She has passed to the great beyond since returning home. 
 
 NOTES. 
 
 The rate of speed of the Jap trainsis somewhat limited, as the Japs like 
 to get asmuch for their money as possible and they objected very much to 
 paying excess fare on faster trains, because they said it should be the other 
 way, a less fare as it took less time to make the distance. 
 
 There are only 6800 foreigners in the whole of Japan. Yokohoma ond Kobe 
 containing all but eight hundred of those while the population of the Island 
 numbers fifty-one million. 
 
 The reason the Japanese get so much out of the land and use it for so 
 long, they put back on the earth what they take from it, while in ouf coun- 
 try we rob the land to pollute the rivers and lakes and pay a heavy tribute in 
 typhoid fever victims in support of our theory and practice. We have four ty- 
 phoid fever victims to Japan's one for the same ratio of population, so that 
 we have lots to learn from the Japs in working with nature instead of rob- 
 bing her. Instead of sending missionaries to Japan to show them how to live 
 we will soon have to import missionaries from there to teach us how to hang 
 on and live. 
 
 The Jap ricksha boy in some respects is somewhat of an improvement on 
 the horse. As one traveler said "there are many cases on record of this 'horse 
 looking up his master taking him home and putting him to bed." You don't 
 (have to steer him, tell him where to go and he goes with a vengeance some- 
 times. Where would you, find a horse that looks over his shoulder and calls 
 out to you the various points of interest as you pass. 
 
 In Canton I heard of one record where the executioner cut off the heads 
 of fourteen Chinese in exactly one and a half minutes. For quickness of dis- 
 patch I think this is about record. The Chinese newspapers make a mention of 
 this execution and the whole thing occupied about two and one-half inches of 
 space. In Xew York, most of the time, one execution would occupy half of a 
 page. I like the Chinese method of publicity much better. It cost 11 cents a 
 head for the Chinese execution., and needed no doctors to feel their pulse to 
 see if they were dead. 
 
 It is said that the Philipinos have about 465 fiesta days all over the Islands, 
 and only 365 days to do it in, so that it generally keeps them pretty busy work- 
 ing overtime. 
 
 The Shwe Dagon Pagoda is being covered with Gold plates which are made 
 of English Sovereigns, that are hammered on an anvils into squares about four 
 by four inches making a square foot cost about forty-three dollars in gold, 
 and it is calculated it will cost about five millions to cover the whole struct- 
 ure. It is said that it is not an uncommon sight to see a pilgrim who has jour- 
 neyed hundred of miles with not fifty cents worth of clothes on him pull out 
 from them, from two to three hundred nupees to pay for gold to cover it. 
 
180 
 
 Hirst's is the one place for curios in Rangoon, and it seems to be the 
 only place on the eastern side of the earth where there is one price, and no 
 selling on Sunday. He is a fine specimen of an old Englishman and has 
 built up his business until he has become famous by square dealing and a 
 t onscience. 
 
 The Cedars of Lebanon are very closely guarded and there are only a- 
 bou.t two hundred left of tnose famous trees which one time covered the side 
 of the Syrian mountains, There were justly celebrated for being so tall and beau- 
 tiful and so far superior to any other trees of Palestine. The wood is rather 
 soft and of lanoe grain with a delightful Oder of cedar. They are called by 
 the Arabs the "Tree of God". Some of the trees in the grove are fifteen hun- 
 dred years old, about one hundred feet high and fifty feet in circumference. 
 They resemble somewhat the majestic oak of this country more than any of 
 the cedar family. 
 
 The Pool of Bethesda, is located near the Greek Catholic Church of 
 St. Anne in Jerusalem, and under the protection of the French; the story of 
 Christ at the Pool, is related in sixty- two languages, posted in frames around 
 the Chapel. 
 
 The pilgrimages to Jerusalem are made in large parties often numbering 
 from five to eight hundred drawn from different parts of Europe, often at one 
 time all from one locality. They are taken care of by different hospices that 
 are there under the auspices of the various countries of Europe. 
 
 The committee in charge of raising a fund for a memorial tablet to be 
 erected by the Cleveland tourists to thememory of Rev. Thos. Uzzell have got 
 ten together a sum nearly sufficient forthe purpose. 
 
 The reunion held in Newi York on Dec. 8,was a fine success, abouit nine- 
 ty beuv.i present, and the letters and talks were very much enjoyed, it was 
 unanimously voted to make it an annual affair and a committee was named with 
 Mr. W. J. a ale as Secretary to plan forsimilar reunions every year, to be 
 held in .November or December. 
 
 Through the efforts of Mr. Charles D. Clark a reunion was held in Chica- 
 go on March 2, at which twenty-four Clevelander's were present. It was al- 
 so a success, and is planned to have themannually. There would have been 
 more present, had a longer notice been given, but the time was rather short, 
 for many to make the necessary arrangements. 
 
 The fallowing resolutions were adopted at the last Travellers Club meeting 
 held on the Cleveland, which the experience of the tourists had shown without a 
 doubt something was necessary to be done to make a citizen of the U. S. not 
 ashamed of their country on the open seas. 
 
 TO THE SENATE AND HOUSE OP REPRESENTATIVES OF THE UNITED 
 STATES OF AMERICA, WASHINGTON D. C. 
 
 WHEREAS, The undersigned committee, representing the 750 American tour- 
 ists on the Clark's 1910 Westward Cruise Around the World, deeply deplore the 
 absence of American vessels on the high seas during the entire cruise, 
 which conditions we greatly regret on account of the large and growing com- 
 mercial interests of our manufacturers and merchants in all parts of theworld, 
 therefore, be it 
 
 RESOLVED, That we unamimously recommend and petition Congress to de- 
 vise some means by which this unfortunate condition of affairs may be reme- 
 died and that a representation of American ships in all foreign waters, com- 
 mensurate with oujt mercantile and commercial interests, may be fhe result of 
 your legislation. 
 
 C. J. A. Ericson, Iowa. 
 F. H. Wellcome, Minn. 
 C. W. Kaley, Nebraska. 
 W. D. Steele, Missouri. 
 , Henry J. Stephens, Colorado. 
 
 Edwin O. Eshelby, Ohio. 
 Charles D. Clark, 111. i 
 
 Committee. 
 
181 
 
 ROSTER OF D. A. R. CHAPTER. 
 
 Membership of the Association of the Daughters of the American dev- 
 olution. Clark's 1910 Cruise Around the world. Honorary officers: Mrs. James 
 R. Mellon, Ex-Vice-Pres. Gen. Mrs. Harriet Gould Geffries. Hon. State Regent 
 of Georgia. 
 
 ACTING OFFICERS. 
 
 Regent, Mrs. James D. Penn. 1st Vice Regent Mrs. Geo. McDuffee, 2nd 
 Vice Regent, Mrs. Clinton C. MoNich als. Rec. Sec. Annie H. Patteson. 
 Cor. Sec. Mrs. Sanford Gardner, Treas. Mrs. B. F. Martin, Historian, Mrs. 
 Frank Kellogg. 
 
 Mrs. Emma Coryell Ayers, 
 
 Mrs. Mary Slocum Butler Ayers, 
 
 Mrs. W. H. Blee, 
 
 Mrs. Sarah R. Boher, 
 
 Mrs. Elizabeth H. B. Callaway, 
 
 Mrs. Clara M. Sherman Childs, 
 
 Mrs. Effie C. Currier, 
 
 Mrs. Ellen P. Crumb, 
 
 Mrs. John Clement Cheney, 
 
 Mrs. Frank C. Clark, 
 
 Mrs. Caroline C. Choate, 
 
 Mrs. Sarah E. Fisher, 
 
 Mrs. Ellen Hammond Gladwjin, 
 
 Miss Ida V. Goodali, 
 
 Mrs. Frances E. Herring, 
 
 Miss Ella Knowies Haskell, 
 
 Mrs. Sarah D. Howard, 
 
 Mrs. Charles E. xiussey, 
 
 Mrs. Charles H. Koster, 
 
 Mjiss Lizzie Moulton Kneeland, 
 
 M|iss Mary Lawton, 
 
 Mrs. Agnes M. Lowrle, 
 
 MEMBERS. 
 
 Mrs. Warren D. Maxey, 
 Mrs. Lonise D. Miller, 
 Mrs. William H. Moseley, 
 Mrs. Lottie E. Morris, 
 Mrs. Nora E. Miller, 
 Mrs. Thomas P. Nelson, 
 Mrs. Clara M. O'Neil, 
 Miss Ellen Parker, 
 Mrs. Emma Parker, 
 Miss Sue W. Poullain, 
 Miss Mary E. Root, 
 Mrs. Henry B. Rodgers, 
 Mrs. Estella C. Sherman, 
 Miss Cathleen Sherman, 
 Mrs. John M. Schaupp, 
 Mrs. Edwin Terry, 
 Miss Anna Twiggs Taylor, 
 Miss Susan A. Wentworth, 
 Miss Anna Wallace, 
 Miss Mary E. Wilcox, 
 Mrs. W. H. Whyte. 
 Mrs. William T. Yale. 
 
 HONORARY MEMBERS. 
 
 Society of the Cincinnati, 
 Col. Edward R. Rodgers, William D. St eele, Alden Freeman, S. R., S. A. R 
 
 Sons of the American Revolution. 
 
 Capt. I. M. Andrews, Geo. T. Bush, William W. Reilley. 
 
 NECROLOGY. 
 
 The following names of the members of the Westward Cruise have made 
 their last tour to the Great Beyond from whose bourne no travellers ever re- 
 turn. 
 
 John W. Good, John H. Elliot, Sen. Chas. J. Ericson, Mr. Charles M. Bur- 
 nett, Mrs Ella K. Haskell, Mrs. R. H. E. Sage, Mr. E. M. Holbrook, Mrs. J. B. 
 Malarkey, Mrs. R. W. Swan, Miss MaryE. Wilcox, Rev. Thos. Uzzell. 
 
182 
 
 Draft of resolutions on death of Noble John Good, it also being list of the 
 members of the Ancient Order Nobles of the Miystic Shrine on board the S. 
 S. Cleveland. 
 
 Off Bombay, April 22nd, 1910. 
 
 We, the members of the Ancient Order Nobles of the Mystic Shrine, 
 on board the S. S. Cleveland on the Westward trip of Clark's Cruise Around 
 the world, in meeting assembled do hereby unanimously resolve that — 
 
 WHEREAS, Almighty God, in his Divine Providence, has removed from us 
 our beloved Noble John W. Good, of Kaba Temple, Davenport, la., there 
 fore be it, 
 
 RESOLVED, That we extend to his family and his brother nobles of 
 Kaba Temple our heartfelt sympathy in their great bereavement that has 
 fallen on them. 
 
 NAME 
 
 W. H. iReilly, Pres. 
 Fred H. Ward, 
 C. W. Burgess, 
 Albert D. Parchen, 
 Thos. A. Uzzle, 
 M. B. Rosenbaum, 
 S. G. A. Brown, 
 Thomas Brown, 
 Jos, L. Carman, 
 J. T. Ashworth, 
 F. M. Lee, 
 C. H. Koster, 
 W. V. Rice, 
 W. E. Sapp, 
 Chas. Morris, 
 H. Ml. Parchen, 
 Wm, A. Jones, 
 C. J. Hood, 
 A. O. White, 
 Chas. W. Kaley, 
 A. H. Spicer, 
 Othello A. Fay, 
 David B. Watson, 
 C. T. Bridgeman, 
 Frank C. Clark, 
 Tkos. Graham, 
 W. T. Davies, 
 Herman H. Wiendieck, 
 E. D. Hammond, 
 Ira D. Smith, 
 Hamilton B. Humes, 
 R. J. R. Aden, 
 Henry K. Werner, 
 Tho*. P. Nelson, 
 John K. Crosswell, 
 fid win H. Van Patten, 
 Raphael Herman, 
 Theron H. Huckins, 
 Clayton H. Case, 
 Win. A. Nelson, 
 W. F. Poweil, 
 Geo. Woiters, 
 Harry J. Aden, 
 Wm. McBride, 
 E. V. Chapman, 
 Herbert C. Hinds, 
 J. W. Phillips, 
 
 TEMPLE. 
 
 Ismalia 
 
 Aleppo 
 
 Islam 
 
 Algeria 
 
 El Jebel 
 
 Acca 
 
 Zembo 
 
 Moolah 
 
 Afifi 
 
 Zagazig 
 
 Kerak 
 
 Mecca 
 
 El Kalah 
 
 Medinah 
 
 Zagazig 
 
 Algeria 
 
 Medinah 
 
 Kerak 
 
 Saladin 
 
 Sesostris 
 
 Palestine 
 
 Aleppo 
 
 Syiia 
 
 El Khurafeh. 
 
 Mecca 
 
 Almas 
 
 Ahniik 
 
 Isiam 
 
 El Kalah 
 
 Morocco 
 
 Ireni 
 
 Islam 
 
 Syria 
 
 Mohammed 
 
 Orrr-ar 
 
 El Katif 
 
 Moslem 
 
 Bactash. 
 
 Sphinx 
 
 Pyramid 
 
 Jaffa 
 
 Islam 
 
 Jslam 
 
 Khartum 
 
 r siam 
 
 Cyprus 
 
 Oriental. 
 
 GEO. T. BUSH, Jaffa, Sec. 
 
 Bellefonte, Pa. 
 
183 
 
 NAMES AND ADDRESSES 
 
 OF 
 MEMBERS OF THE CRUISE. 
 
 Those marked with an * were members of the Clark's Cruise Camera Club. 
 
 Capt. Remmer, J. R. Aden, San Fran- *Miss Mareta V. Black, Elgin, 111. 
 
 cisco, Cal. Mrs. Franc E. Blackmer, Albert i^ea, 
 
 Mr. H. J. Aden, San Francisco, Cal. Minnesota. 
 
 Mr. Charles Ahrens, Louisville, Ky. Miss Myrta Blaine, Sheldrake, N. Y. 
 Capt. J. M. Andrews, New Yark. Mr. and Mrs. W. H. Blee, Springfield, 
 
 Mr. J. T. Ashworth, Des Moines, Iowa. Ohio. 
 
 Mr. C. H. ashworth, Des Moines, Iowa. Mr. and Mrs. J. R. Boait, Dayton, Ohio. 
 Mrs. Emma L. C. Ayres. Bound Brook, Mr. Howard S. BonsaH, Denver, Colo. 
 
 New Jersey. Mr. and Mrs. John E. Boher, Shippens- 
 
 Mrs. E. B. Ayers, Wilkesbarre, Penn- burg". Pa. 
 
 sylvania. * Mr. E. C. Brown, Rochester, N. Y. 
 
 Mrs. Louis Bradford, Omaha, Neb. 
 Mr. Robert Bradford, Omaha, Neb. 
 Mr. Lyman A. Bagg, New lork. C]yde E _ Brent0 n, Dai- 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. Ira J. Baker, Washington. -^ Centre Iowa 
 
 Mrs. Emma L. Baird, Kansas City, Mo. A delyn Brickley, San Francisco. 
 
 Mr. Albert M. Baldwin, Cooperstown, ^ Q p Bri dgeman, Flint, Michigan. 
 
 North Dakota. , M - Alice M. Brooks, Ben Lomond, 
 
 * Miss Mary Cordelia Barrett, Sacra- - California. 
 
 mento, Cal. M g _ Q A Brown, Ship- 
 
 * Mr. and Mrs. W. S. Bartlett, Los 
 
 Angers, Cal. M( , Thorrjas Brown, St. Louis, Mo. 
 
 Miss Bartlett, Los Angeles, Cal. ^ rg Cbarles T Brus h, Xew York. 
 
 Mr. Gordon Bartlett, Los Angeles, Cal — Anna c Brugh> Keyj York 
 Dr. and Mrs. Francis S. Bascom, Salt t ^ Carl A BUg . gej B uriington, N. D. 
 
 Dake City, Utah. Mr an<J Mrs ' c ^ Burgess, San Fran- 
 
 Marter F. S. Bascoom, Jr., Salt La^.e ' ciscQ( Cal 
 
 City, Utah. ^ rr g Bur gess, Magnolia, Va. 
 
 Mrs. Anna A. Becker, St. Louis, Mo. y ^ -waiter Burkett, Philadelphia, pa. 
 Mrs. Antionette F. Beiger, Portland, - - g R Burton> Cincinnati, Ohio. 
 
 Oregon. * M; . George T. Bush, Bellefonte, Pa. 
 
 * Mrs. Nellie Knowiton Bell, Berkeley, 
 
 California. _.,„ 
 
 Miss Marjorie Bell, Kansas City, Mo. Mis. Elizabeth H. B. Calloway, Be.,e- 
 Mr. A. Bentley, Toledo, Ohio. fonte, Pa. 
 
 Mr and Mrs. J. Berwin, Boston, Mass. Mrs. S. P. Calloway, La Grange, Ga. 
 Dr.* C. F. Bingaman, Pittsburg. Pa. Mr. and Mrs. W. E. Campbell, Kansas 
 Miss Marion E. Bingaman, Pittsburg. City, Mo. 
 
 Mrs. E. L. Bierbower, Omaha, Neb. * Mr. and Mrs. J. L. Carman, Tacoma. 
 
 * Mi^s ' Margaret E. BiggS, Pittsburg. Mr. Joseph L. Carman, Jr., Tacoma. 
 Mrs. Harriet E. Biggs, "Pittsburg, Pa. Mrs. Florence R. Carpenter, philadel- 
 Mrs. C E. Bigeiow, Chicago, 111. Phia, Pa. 
 
 * Miss Louise H. Billings, Boston, Mass. Mrs. John F. Carter, Fort Dodge, la. 
 Rev Geo. H. Bird, Chicago, 111. * Mr. C. H. Case, Hartford. Conn. 
 
 * Mrs. Iona S. Bickerton, Portland, Ore. Mr. and Mrs. Walter S. Cash, New 
 Mr. and Mrs. Willis L. Black, G^i", 111. Yor'A. 
 
 Mr. Lyman F. Black, Elgin, 111. * Mr. E. K. Chapman, Roxbury, Mass. 
 
184 
 
 iJ£ 8 muJ*?*!^ Chapman, Denver. * Mr. W. J. Dobson, Calgary, Alberta. 
 
 Mrs. Edith L Charlton. Denver. * Miss R. Drake, Portland, Ore. 
 
 Mr. Charles S. Chase, Detroit, Mich. * Mr. F. Drake, Portland Ore 
 Mr. and Mrs. John C. Cheney, Fort Miss Cassie Du B ois, Tioga Centre 
 Dodge, Iowa. New York> 
 
 * Mr W. A. ChiHd, Hamilton, Ontario. Mrs. Jane B. Du v ai, New York. 
 Mr. Hannibal Choate, Winona, Minn. Miss E. P. Dye, Pittsburg Pa 
 Miss Caroline Choate, Winona, Minn. 
 
 Miss Clancey, Tacoma, wash. 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. Charles D Clark Mrs> W - H - Eastwood, Binghamton, 
 Peoria, nj. New York 
 
 * Miss Marie V. Clark, Peoria, 111. Mr - and Mrs - E - W. Edwards, Cincin- 
 Mr. Richard F. Clark, Peoria, ill. nati > ° hio - 
 
 M|lss Maude H. Cleveland, Walpole, M!t '• John F - Elliott, Cincinnati, Ohio. 
 
 Mass. ' Miss Catherine Englehardt, Oakland, Cal. 
 
 Mr. Walter H. Cleveland, Walpole. Mrs * Alfred Eoff, Boise, Idaho. 
 
 Mrs. William G. Cooke, Brooklyn. ' Senator Charles J. A. Ericson, Boone, 
 
 * Miss Helen F. Cole, sa n Francisco. Iowa. 
 
 Mrs. John F. Cole, San Francisco. Mr - and Mrs - Edwin O. Es,helby, Cin- 
 
 Miss Nell H. Cole, San Francisco, cinnati, Ohio. 
 
 Mrs. A. A. Cole, Washington, D.' C. Miss IsaDel Sara Eshelby, Cincinnati. 
 Mrs. Louise O. Coolidge, Norwalk. Mr - James Eshelby, Cincinnati. 
 
 Conn. ' Mrs. Emma G- Eustace, Rockford, 111. 
 
 Mrs. Minerva H. Cooper, Waliterton, * Miss Evelyn Evans, Lansdale, Pa. 
 
 Ontaiio. ' Mr - a nd Mrs. Floyd H. Evans, St. Paul. 
 
 * Mr. A. E. Crane, Kalamazoo, Mich. 
 
 * Miss Daisy B. Crandall, Chicago, jjl. M r. O. A. Fay, Athol, Mass 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. Thomas Crary, Han- M r. and Mrs. Samuel F. Fenton, Salt 
 cock, N. Y. Lake City> utah> 
 
 Mr. George K. Croker, St Thomas. * Mrs . H , E# Ficke> D a v enport, Iowa. 
 
 ,_. ° n tario. Miss Johanna pi cke> Davenport, Iowa. 
 
 Miss Elizabeth K, Crawford, Cincin- Mrs. Sarah B. Fisher, Binohamton, 
 nati, Ohio. New York _ 
 
 Dr. and Mrs. B. H. Griley, Dallas Cen- * Mr . E- c> Fowell, New York. 
 
 tre, Iowa. Miss Lena Potter F 0rS ythe, Lincoln, 
 
 * Mr. J. K. Crosswell, Sumter, S. C. Illinois. 
 
 Mrs William A . Croysdale, Kansas * Miss Ett ' ie Fow i e r, New York, 
 
 City, Mo. * Mr> G- A< Franklin, San Antonio. 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. D. S. Crumb, St. -Louis, Mr . Alden Freeman, East Orange, N. J. 
 
 * Mr. and Mrs. Warren T. Currier, Mr> and Mrs _ G> H> Fre nch, North At- 
 
 Boston, Mass. tleboro, Mass 
 
 Mr. William E. Curry, Winchester, Ky. Mi&s Ruth A. French, North Attleboro. 
 Mr. C. F. Cutts, Carson City, Ne v . Hon. William G. Fri z ell, Dayton, Ohio. 
 Mrs. Estelle G. Cujnnea, Cleveland, Ohio. 
 
 * Miss Edith S. Cunnea, Cleveland, O. 
 
 Mr. Jeremiah W. Curtis, New York. Mr - Charles Gahen, Los Angeles, cal. 
 
 Mrs. Sanford Gardner, Augusta, Ga. 
 Mr. and Mrs. G- W. Garrels, St. -Louis. 
 Miss Henrietta E. Gerken, phiiadel- 
 Mrs. Margaret Dangberg, Mlnden, JMe v . phia, Pa. 
 
 Miss Grace Dangberg, Minden, Nev. Mrs. Jennie Christ, M. D., Ames, iowa. 
 
 Mrs. Mattie D. Darrow, l^a Porte, Ind. * Mr. and Mrs. J. R. GUbreath, Man- 
 Miss Clara I, Darr, M. D., Portland, Ore dan, North Dakota. 
 Miss Katherine K. Dasheil, Washington, * Mr. Sidney M. Gladwin, Hartford, 
 Miss Nellie E. Dasheil, Washington, D. C. Conn. 
 Mr. and Mrs. William T. Davies, JUo s Mrs. Ellen H. Gladwin, M. D. Hartford. 
 
 Angeles, California. Conn. 
 
 Mrs. Frances E. De Long, TJtica, N. Y. Miss Ida V. Goodall, New York. 
 Mr. and Mrs. S. C. Deaner, Woodland, Mr. and Mrs. John W. Good, Moline. 
 
 Calif. Mr. Harry C. Good, Moline, 111. 
 
 Mrs. Sarah L. Dorn, Cincinnati, Ohio. Miss Mary L. Goodnough, Binghamton. 
 Mr. and Mrs. John D. Dorris, Hunt- Mr. S. W. Goodwin, New York. 
 
 ingdon, Pa. Mrs. William F. Goodwin, Rochester, 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. J. T. Donneilan, Salt New York. 
 
 Lake City, Utah. Mr. and Mrs. Edward D. Graff, 
 
 * Mr. W. H. Donnelly, Calgary, Alherta. Worthington, pa. 
 
2£r. and Mrs. Thomas Graham, Wash- Mis. IK J. S. Hodgson; Chicago,, ffltL 
 ington, D. C. Mr. o*.. R. Hight, M'crris, I1L. 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. Adam Graham, Cle-yfi- Mrs. Sarah L. H©ag„ BinghamtOK,, K". T.. 
 land. Ohio.. Dr. and Mrs* W.. H, Hood,, Reno' Nev 
 
 Miss Kffie J. Graham, Cleveland, Ohio. Dr. and Mrs,, a. J.. Hood,. Adriwjw Mfcfe- 
 
 *Mr. Jim A. Grant, Minneapolis, Minn,. Mrs.. James Hcgle, Salt Lake City. 
 
 Mrs. Amelia Graves, Cleveland, Ohio. Mr. and. Mrs, Charles H,. Hog\en s I 
 
 * Miss Kva Gray, Columbus. 0W0. ton, Ohio. 
 
 Mrs. Henry W. Gray,, Philadelphia,. Mrs, Susie A.. Hoteappie.,, sch-sriKiafiy.. 
 
 * Miss Marie Louise Gray, Philadelphia, Mr,, and Mrs_ E_ ML Hclbroak, Chicle.. 
 
 * Miss Katharine L. Gregg, peoria, 111.. * Mrs, Therse Horst, Day.en.pcrt, Kxwa„ 
 Mr. and Mrs. W, D. Gregory,, M'inne- Mr. H. A. Hcsussr, ..Lincoln,, m . 
 
 apolis, Minn. Mts^ Sarah B,. Howard,, Msalone,. EL. T .. 
 
 Mr. Lawrence S, Gregory, Mmne-Mr. and. Mas. EchvarA D.. Howard. 
 
 apolis. Minn. BU#$alai n, Y. 
 
 Rev. Geo, h. Greenfield,. S' T- D,. Elko,.* ^x. and . Mra '' sT. JL Etowreffl, jaraotifc 
 Mrs. Greenfield,, Elkt> ( Nev. ario. 
 
 Miss Frank L. Grippea, Spokane,. y v . Henry H. H«Kt, KalamacC"., Xici . 
 
 * MS'SS Marjorie Hubbard,. \v„ SS&stiil 
 
 Mr. A. C. Hahn,. "Vernon, Texas, 
 
 Mrs. Alice F. Haliaday, Buffalo,. 2?, Y 
 
 Dr. and Mrs.. TJaeiron:. IL. Stuck Jiis, 
 
 TiltoP AT "FT 
 
 * Mrs. M. J. Haire, Fort Dodge, Iowa. , r ^ w " ,t, ~,~.4. ™ 
 *Miss Sarah E. Hall, Honolulu T . H . "^ ' "* ^~ J ^ mato » «" 
 Mr. Levi L. Hall, Lowell, Mass. w J f rseT . "JV*' - M 
 Mrs. Wilhelmina HaUea Chicago. ?f' *£«* ** 2?^^?^ ' 
 Miss Kate Hamerschlag, >New, York. Jf" W '*" a Jf »*»* ^?^S 2 
 
 * Dr. and Mrs. E. D, Hammond, Wtj! 8 - S^*** ^ ^ E£ 
 
 Lake City, Utah. **■ **** "« Haa«X, BS»0* 
 
 Mr. Reinhold Hansen,. TVester-Uhr. 
 
 stedt, Germany. Dr. H. A. Ijaais,. Kb®****, !$»*- 
 
 * Mr. and Mrs. Lafayette Hanchett, Mr,. WSUiaia. K 3.'.t:cl',!, iH''£'U\ 
 
 Salt Lake City, 
 Miss Helen F. Hanchett, gait Lake „_ «. 
 
 City Mrs. Harufet StotlcB 
 
 Miss Olive I. Harris, EPSton,. Mass. . C-a " M ^. _ 
 
 * Miss Hazel M. Hartman, Coopers- *«. Btoiaa 3ML £«&&** Tx^La.-.T-. 
 
 town, N. D. ' il,e « N - T " 
 
 Mrs. Ella Knowaes H askel>. Butte, Hon. ^ I3ss . »*<** m Sent*** Sasewe:... 
 Mr. W. Jones Hatches, Augusta, Ga... Tills,, N„ Y.. 
 
 Mr. Weldon H. Hateher, Augusta, Ga, ^ r - *"«* • l '^™>. ^**** »« 
 Mr. Lucien V, Hatcher, Augusta, Qa,. New jsere-e*,-. 
 
 Mr. Milton Birke Hatcher, Agusta Ga. * ^ 5s5 3ya '^ A - "J?* 3 * 5B9 
 
 Mr. Lawience Hawiey, Berlin, Wis.. * Mr - Wfil&aa A. J, ret, C**«ges U. 
 
 Mr. w. M. JiVyner, Dayton, Ohio, *«*» ^ lULa ^ ■- ^ fflas - te3 > ^ te ^.. 
 
 Dr. Lola L. Plays, Moline, 111. * MIs» Corn«l*a Jon«s» I ■. ^" 
 
 Mrs. Mary ft Hazelton, San Jose, Cat. ^ L L - Jo ^ a ' ^ 
 
 * Mrs Vtedfcrldk W, Herring, Waser-Mr, and' Mrs. Eao* SL JaonifcS 
 
 town, K. Y. " oa " ■"■«- 
 
 Mr. Theodore S. Kelb, York, Pi, 
 
 Mr. Julius C, Helb, York, Pa, * jj^. g» -^ i'iie^r, Itetf CTcti'?;, 3SBBS\. 
 
 Mrs. WiLliam D. Heebner, Lansdare, j^ 1SieQd6»r« ;s;.itstte ie r, CMfeSBj^, 
 Miss Grace Heebner, Lonsdale, Pa.. air _ jiYito Kaxstte, 8h«*«a^aa^ Wis., 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. Lewis J.. Heintz, Buffalo, Mrg; -, F ffi aiz^, JSTew ITesl'r. 
 Mr. Raphael Harman, Detroit, Mich. jj^g H*n?iefcta Ei» JRaatffflwaisi, 
 Miss Elizabeth Herriott, Oakland. ituibus Obi&a. 
 
 Mr. Harold H» Herschber,ger> Minneap— Mrg ' ae o..' T.. Ke.i)«; ^ra :i»p-*„, * ' 
 
 olis, Minn. 1&>g [ Ea tii»S*e K«eBea; QSntibgu 
 
 Mrs, Carl I, Heydirick,. Franklin, J», Mrs jrjank KeHfiee*. BfiBW ISaiSr- 
 Mr. James F. Higgins, Athal, Mass. * Miss 22arv F. ES0«^g; iSBeaa 
 
 Miss Ida Leigh Hilton, Sav&n n &h, G^m^s H' E. K«^':i:, KaesaSsv, W 
 Re v . Herbert C. Hinds, Ph.D, Sch- Mfeg ^ MBerta K«Besv. HWW EB»WB3Bt 
 
 enectady, N. Y. Ctou ,. 
 
 Mrs. Hinds, Schenectady, N. Y - . Mrs ivaiter SL K330er„ Zteyraav OB£te. 
 
 Mr. Clarence P, Hippely, Bellevrae, jjj^ jBaa^t 15. K*3a*3a, ^« r «- T«*. 
 
 Pennsylvania, » ^^^ Wia&st 3L 3K33Ki. 3B»&aaES. SflL 
 
Master Wi'liam King, Rockford, 111. Rc v. James H. McCarthy, Holly, x. Y. 
 
 Mr. William F. King, Mt. Vernon, la. Mr. Fred M. McGonigal, Cleveland, O. 
 
 * Mrs. Lizzie Moulton Kneejand, Olii- Mv. and Mrs. George McDujffee Roeh- 
 
 cago, 111. ester, X. II. 
 
 * Mr. and Mrs. George Proctor Knott, Miss Lida McKeighan, Omaha, Neb. 
 
 Springfield, Mass. Mr. B. S. McLure, wheeling, W. va. 
 
 Mass Rose Konop, state Centre, ia. Miss Elenor McLure, Wheeling, w. Va. 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. Charles H. KOster, Mr. and Mrs. James R. Mellon, Pitts- 
 
 Brooklyn, N. Y. burg, Pa. 
 
 Mrs. Frank J. Kuhnmuench, Mill- Mr - and Mrs. Chris Merlau, Roches- 
 
 waukee, Wis. ter, x. Y. 
 
 Mrs. Louise O. Miller, Franklin, pa. 
 
 , ,„. „ T T „ T Mrs. Xora B. Miller, Dadeville, Ala. 
 
 r -.f n f ^ rs - Wllham H - Lane ' West * Mr. and Mrs. Edward D. Miller, gait 
 M-dford Mass. Lake c - t 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. Douglas J. Landers, * Migs Maud A< Mmer> ^ Lafce city> 
 
 Springfield, Mo. Mr _ apd Mrs _ E _ F> Michael, La poire, 
 
 Miss Mary Lawton, Washington. lml 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. Harold Lamb, Union, Misg Kathryn Michael, La Porte, tod. 
 
 Point, Ga. : , ^ is; . E; enor m. Moorehead, Zanes- 
 
 Mrs. Jessie M. Lamb, Cohoes, X. Y. viUe ohio 
 
 Mrs. Thomas Langford, Eureka, Cal. Mrs _ D ' fcW itt'c. Tanyer, Spring Lake 
 
 * Mr Thomas L. Langford, Eureka, cal. Beacl N> j (Nee M ooney.) 
 Miss Marie C. Larson, Oak Park, HI. Mr _ John B Mooney Lan g don N . D . 
 Miss S. R. Lawton, XeW York. Mrs William H _ Mose iey, Xew Haven, 
 
 * Mr. and Mrs. Frank Moore Lee, Reno. Conn 
 
 * Miss Marjorie Lee, Reno, Xe v . j^ Pannie c Moffatt, Rockford, 111. 
 Mr. Jehu E. Lederer, Baltimore, Mi Misg EIizabeth A . Moon, Bin ghamton, 
 Mrs. Sol W. Levi, Cincinnati, Ohio. Xew Yu 
 
 Miss Julia Levy, Kansas City, Mo. Miss Carrie' ' E. Moon, Binghamton. 
 
 Dr. ami Mrs. John A. L«w 1S> Reno. Dr H w< Mo0re> Santa B arbara, Cal. 
 
 Dr. Blwiu-,1 G. Link, Rochester, X. Y. Mr> and Mrg _ c j Morgan# Cleveland. 
 Mr and Mrs. CwrJimtft Linkroum, Mrg LotUe E _ M o rris , Binghamton. 
 
 Hackenssac*, is. J. Mr Charles Morris, Dallas Centre, 
 
 Mr. Lrtmund G. Linton, Worthington, i wa 
 
 Pennsylvania. * Miss Edith M- Moulton, San Fran- 
 
 Miss Alice W. Litton, St. .Louis, Mo. cisco Calif 
 
 * Mr. and Mrs. Fred E. Lo v elle, Mil- Mr _ and ' Mrs _ Albert Murdoch) Boston. 
 
 waukee, Wis. * Mdsg Kat i iarme Murdoch, Pittsburg. 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. Frank J. LOrd, Denver. Katharine Murray, Ellensburg, 
 
 Miss Mary C. Long, Philadelphia, Pa. Wash 
 
 Mrs. Agnes M. Lowrie, Bloomington, 111. 
 Mr. D. M. Lyle, Glen Elder, Kans. 
 
 Mrs. John B. Xeil, Columbus, Ohio. 
 
 Mrs. J. Martyn Xeifert, Old Fort Com- 
 
 * Mr. and Mrs. Charles J. B. Malarkey, fort Va _ 
 
 Portland, Ore. * Mr _ ' and Mrs. Thomas P. Nelson, 
 
 Mr. G. H. E. Manning, Nashua, X. H. Teoria, 111. 
 
 Mrs. B. F. Martin, Columbus, Ohio. Ml . William A Xelson, Ansonia, Conn. 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. Charles M. M'athews, M ,. & _ Rose NeU nert, Los Angeles. 
 
 Xew Haven, Conn. Mr and Mrs Clinton C. Xichols, Wil- 
 
 M.v. and Mrs. W. G. Maxey, Oshkosh, mington, Ohio. 
 
 Wis- Mr. and Mrs. Guy Xorman, and Maid, 
 
 Mr. Alva Mayne, Livingston, Mont. ' xewiport R. I. 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. William McBride, Win- MJSri Hope xorman, Xewport, BR. I. 
 
 nipeg, Man. Mr. and Mis. F. O. Xorton, Reno. 
 
 Mrs. William R. McKey, Brookline, „ M[r TQm B Norton> New Orleans. 
 
 Mass. 
 Mrs. Lillian McCormick, Danville, pa. 
 
 Mr Henry MfcKay, M'orden, Man. Miss Clara F. Olds, Tacoma, Wash. 
 
 Dr. W H. Myers, U. S. A. Wash. D. C, Mr. J. L. Oliver, palisades, Cal. 
 Mr. and Mrs. Milton A. McRae, Detroit, Mr. and Mrs F. L. Olmstead, San 
 
 Mich Mateo, Calif. 
 
 Miss Helen Victoria, McRae, Detroit. Miss L v ely n T. Olmstead, San Mat e o. 
 Miss Marie Evelyn McRae, Detroit. Mr. and Mrs. C H. O'Neil, Mllwau- 
 MVs. A. H. McAnulty, H a gerstow n , Md. kee, Wis. 
 
187 
 
 Mrs. Leander L. Ormsby, Boise, Idaho, *Mr. Frantz F. Puterbaugh, Chicago. 
 
 * Miss Margaret Ormsby, Boise, Idaho. 
 
 Mr Jared H. Orr. Michigan City. Ind. m « _ , ■ 
 
 SSk Tl. Osborne, Jr., La Porte, ind. Mr " Geor « e ^ Q ua *e. Cleveland, Ohio. 
 Mrs. F. L. Oswald, Salt Lake City. 
 
 Miss Hazel E Oswald, Salt Lake City. Mr. Philip w. Raber, Chicago, IU. 
 
 * Dr. Preston Rambo, Marietta, Ga. 
 
 Miss Elia Parker, Princeton, 111. ?P S M * ry M E " *£?«• * enti * l *> N - Y - 
 
 Miss ISmma Parker, Princeton, 111. ^ nSe^lo * Raym ° nd ' 
 
 Dr. and Mrs. F. J. Patera, Chicago j ' ' Buffalo, N. Y 
 
 Miss Laura E. Patterson, Philadelphia. Mr D Redwo ' od Magnolla ^a. 
 
 * Miss Jenme M. Payne, Flint Mich , Mr and M A Khoades, 
 Mr. and Mrs. Henry M. Parchen, ^^ Wash 
 
 „• Vx*?' ™ °£ u „ , ™„ * * Dr - and Mrs - William C. Richardson, 
 
 Miss Adele M. Parchen, Helena, Mont. Tampa Fla 
 
 * !£• A ^ e ff ?• ^ ar u Che ^ H ! 1 , ena ' ^° nt - * Dr. John Riordon, East Rutherford, 
 
 * Miss Edith L ParKs, Brookline, Mass. ' ' 
 
 Mrs. Sarah L. Patterson, Denver, Col. Mr /^ M * s Windsor V. Rice, Salt 
 Rev. Chas. G. Patterson, San Ansel- Lake Citv Utah 
 
 .. m ?,'r.^ a1 ' . ™. ^ . Master Gordon Rice, Salt Lake o-.y. 
 
 Mrs. William Patterson, Ottawa, Ont. Misg Isabelle Ri galt Lakfi ct 
 
 Mr. Frank H. Patterson, New York. Migg Mar uerite E lRice Salt Lake 
 
 Miss Anne H. Patterson, New York. oit 
 
 Mrs. Anna D. Patrick, Los Angeles. M ' g Richardson Chicago. 
 
 Mr. K. H. Paul, Dallas Centre, iowa. Mrg Katherine Rieck ' elmanf cincin- 
 
 Miss Viola Pearce, Marquette, Mich. na( .. 0h . Q 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. L. Peake, Rockford ill. ^ ^ Kieckle Cincinnati. 
 
 Mrs. William E Pearl, New York. , Miss M ROD inson, Springfield, 
 
 Miss -Klsie Pearl, New York. Illinois 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. Joseph C. Peers, Rock- Kdward R L0 ckPort , 
 
 ford ' lih New York 
 
 Prof, and Mrs. H. M. Perkins, Dela- M; . ( , eorge A Robbins> CMcag0i m> 
 
 wlare, Ohio. M Margaret Emery Robinson, Chi- 
 
 * Prof. G. H. Perkins, Ph.D. Burling- ° •" 
 
 ,. cago, in. 
 
 ton, vi. M Henry B. Rogers, New Canaan, 
 
 Mrs. Seely Perry, Rockford, 111. * 
 
 Miss Lucretia G. Perry, Bingnamton , . „ r n " , _ ,, t> «*„.--,, A nri n n 
 „..__,,, Mr. and Mrs. R. M. Rodgers, Adrian, 
 
 New York. 
 
 - Mr. and Mrs. Frank Pearson, urn- Rohlfing, M. D. Colorado 
 
 capo, IU. " °' 
 
 ^ iSS xx An xf ^T ^ t 011 -^, h Mr. Frederick L. RohlfW, Colorado 
 
 Mr. H. N. Peck, Detroit, Mich. ^ o' 
 
 Mrs. James G. Penn, Danville, Va. Ul J*« Col °- _..-.„ _„, „,. „., 
 
 Mr. Geo. W. Percy, Rochester. <N. Y. ^^TnvTfi^^rS'-? 
 Mr. andMrs. Thomas Petherbridge, Pe. **• Fred M. Rood Rochester, NY 
 
 .... ' Mrs. George W. Roosevelt, Washing- 
 
 oria, 111. ° 
 
 Dr Marv E. Phelps, Canon City, Colo. ton ' D - C. 
 
 Kev. John W. Phillips, D. D., Bingham- M.- and Mrs. George D. Roper, Rock- 
 
 ton N Y ford - in - 
 
 Mr. Thomas 'l. Philips, Wlncnester, Mr and Mrs. E. G. Robichaux, Thibo- 
 
 TCentuckv daux ' La - 
 
 - Miss Elizabeth G. Pom e ro y , los * Miss Edith Robinson, Louisville. Ky. 
 
 Angeles Cal Mr - an<1 Mrs - Arch M * Robmson - ■ Lou - 
 
 MF - Set Cauf ^ E - P ° St ' U ° S A " Maste^AlfS Robichaux. Thibodaux. 
 
 * Miss Carrie A. Post, Los Angeles. Mrs. M. A Robinson. Mobile Ala. 
 
 * Mr. and Mrs. w. F. Powell, Clearfield, Miss Kate E. Robinson Mobile. Ala 
 
 Pennsylvania c °l- F - K - bobbins. Wellington, Kans.- 
 
 reun^ivau . Morton B Rosenbaum, 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. W. F. Porter, La porte. "• ana mr f- ^ orlon a. ■*■ 
 Miss Emma R. Porter, La Porte, ind. Richmond va p .. nnd 
 
 Miss Sue W. Poullain, Augusta, Ga. * Miss Irma B^ Rosenb a Richmond 
 
 * Mr. and Mrs. L. M. PrPnce. Cincin- * Miss Mary Elizabeth Root. Benning- 
 
 Mrs n Anna h Gray Purcell, Chicago. Mrs! °Wiu!am ^'J^cL^T^ 
 
 Mrs. W. Puterbaugh, Chicago. 111. Mr. Howard L. Rust, T aco m a, Wash. 
 
WOm KEjsnspSESt HStajftiJ, .eh'at&aaE'OOga. sillon, Ohio. 
 
 * jSBEiss. j£ifsato" JUL .Satterlee*. Tacoma. Mr. T. A- Snider„ Cincinnati, .Qlii<j„ 
 Mitfflaar .tfjes&ar CL iSsifcerle^, 2Jaesma. Mr. and Mrs. JE. B. Solomon, Dayto^, 
 MdJi. M.. iSL. mEL sSajse, vC&iea»!C|j„ JUL 'Ohio. 
 
 iKs-„ aao£ iMks. MjUiazsL Mi <S%ag, >Wy&- * Mr. g. K. Solomon, .Atlanta, Ga. 
 
 xa^4 i5-Ji. -Mr. and Mrs. Louis E. Spratlen, Den- 
 
 Bfe. iiraM JLK. &£. M.. -Scbame^, JOallas - ,yer„ Col©. 
 
 CSesiBte^, igassa. Mrs. Margaret A. Spalding, Sioux City, 
 
 JWSsi utSaiocge .&anae£fea^, „S.t. .i^ouis. .Mo. Iowa. 
 
 Mils iifej^ii-Qta Jsk&aefi&er,,, .St. Jjauis s Mo..MLss Sarah jee. Spalsfourry, .Santa Cruz, 
 iMLsa iLtaiiiis, jE. .S^naef^er, JJayton, CaL 
 
 dSMffl. Mr. William Speide\, SPringdale, Pa. 
 
 fflSaai Jwstx Jschbeper* JPfikis?, Hi. .Miss Helena E. Spraker, Brooklyn. 
 
 mfifit «iCaffiSiffl&to, J-^nise -Sciaa^er; JSing- • Mies -Nellie Spears, Lansdale, Pa. . 
 
 itoimtKin, iflt 3B- Dr. A. _H. vSplcer, Westerly, .a. I. 
 
 * SSte. *L ««. jSeiatoeaaB^, X»s Angeles. Mr. an ci Mrs. James D. Spalding, .Sioux 
 Jakes. Owaflsiiaa ^fclossfceizj. -Sit. i^onis. City, Iowa. 
 
 .Sfc. iK, JiSdWBauBfi «SScbffl&£]4, Winnipeg. Miss Elizabeth Stevenson, Pittsfourg. 
 Ssfc swl ilfcfcs. J:. iSatuuffli oCi*o^:<«. Mr. and Mrs. .A. H. S.tange, Merrily 
 
 -L,'.'.£li jjSchiMii^, ■Claijoa.gq, III. Wisconsin. 
 
 fie ^Kfiffi JfE. jS«4«sj«i £5We%gq, Hi. Mr. Charles F. Stanton, .New .London, 
 
 * M M. -Sshauaa, -Fact JEJa4 a g i e* 'Conn. 
 
 ji'iocss. * Mr. and Mrs. William JD, Steele, Se- 
 
 -■' Weu 423smjm J.. &:.&t% : .Barker skurg,. dalia, Mo. 
 
 ■ : mzgijkfa. .Master William £>.. Steele, Jr,, Sedalia. 
 
 Mz asm Mris. ^Macsis AcJzw&fc^her,, CM- Miss Florence E. Steffey, Philadelphia. 
 
 p :_.•«, -iU, Mr., and Mrs. Henry J.. Stephens, Den- 
 
 Wk,i $&®bB2ila S^tawusijfc jaasfcous. Mass. .yer, Colo. 
 
 awia JfcMi. JL &■ dSca££, .Portland,,, Ore. * Mr. Harold H, Stephens, Bender, 
 'Me.. m&& Ms&„ msul -A. -S.ch8t4„ Salt Mtejfca. C. N. Stephens, St. L<ouis, M». 
 
 <£££S, OffiaJft .Mrs. William Shaw Stewart, Philadel- 
 
 Btea, JL, i&, aBfesafcmwaas, iL<Rffl .AKg«?,iea. jihia. Pa. 
 
 i&itec. '&saesk. Si .Si&'mam:,, &r£ XXadge, la.* Miss jjcrothy NewMrk Stewart, phil- 
 mc mM JfeS. JdL -E. SBa^ffie!:,,, x»ayten., adelphia,, pa. 
 
 (QuaMt .Me. .and Mrs. C. Z. Stodder, Boston, Mass 
 
 fife, >£m&Wii}& 5L. SPa-% -F'Mt .cadaster,, j^^ j_ w amer gturdevant, Cragsmoor, 
 
 Msmt i'actn Mew York. 
 
 ms&. Cte&as a .SStos&ffica^ ^saasNion Midi. Mr ^ aEd M r£. Edward X>. Stakes, 
 '■" Mr.. M. J&Mm, J&tsaJifiaq, H<?3«h£OED. M'ch Mt> Holly, K. J. 
 Afcs:. 42a»aa M. £&&nai&a-£ibii(Ui, Castle- BeK _ Erancis Sullivan, M. R., Alhion, 
 
 jtwaa^, pt. .Mew| E"orkL 
 
 a^i^j US&Eiaieaaa -A.. Skonu, 'Casiietoii. j^^ ^33^^ Sutherland, IvEontreal^ Que. 
 pi,-r_ tok, iC, -Sfcuj^., .MiKSeap^ii^. -Minn. Mr. and Mrs. Jalua J. Svohoda, Chica- 
 afc >L~tei3:a6sK BlU2sariJi, ;) ^4baSJmi»e, piiila- ^ aL 
 
 .i^iiipia^,, 33a. ©r. .and Mrs. .Sosooe Wesley Swan, 
 
 SZz. wn£ Ms*. £k. JSu S&iexm&Q, Bfxst JE£u- wrorchester Mass. 
 
 fflRct;, jKSri^ Mc. .Artter H. Symons, Mew York. 
 
 Msas ^' a ^ W- «S%isaBS^, Saas 5^a«iGtsoa. 
 BSE. aaasi afeE. K X^. ^i©^, " EraweE. 
 i!iCr^ JSssHBlfi iias* JKWflK. "™^ ^ aiat - ISss ;Sle ila Tate. Tate, <3a. 
 
 ©law^tei . * Miss BUzabetli Delano Tailman, Fair- 
 
 Bfc. X .iSto.i£ Safiftfr. D^trtSai £ms®„, CA 2 have n, Mass. 
 
 »■ DJr. SaaraiBali & ^cfceaAaicgeB. ^utner- m ^ ^^^ Twiggs ^aylar, Augusta, G&. 
 
 i!'..j.-«', JK. X Mrs. Edwin Terry, Brooklyn, N. Y. 
 
 ■c, a«oia«ate :E. .fifc=««, fflW«biwB«oa» ^^ ^.^ Temp j, eriB . K a, n sas City, Mc*. 
 
 35ss«? r«?^iL. ^ * Mrs Littom Thomas, Knaxville, Tenn. 
 
 * B6&. Jja a ■£xagt8n r SEat^sjsr®, 2?a. Mr Ben ThU(l6nL( Minneapolis, Minn. 
 Mrs, AJi.ai. X. JfflBaSt8%, ffiasLespS-15^ Ohio.. :MEr .^ ^ Thoratan# MinneapeMs, Minn. 
 Be. JsaA i'Kr^ ite-wML SSL Smaust*, J3es ^ CharJes w ^ Thomps0 a, New York. 
 
 MaciiSffiS I®J«*. * Mr. Lawrence E. Tripp, .Salt Lake 
 
 Mc. .^>t JSUBHS. ix!* EL a«W*sr. Massil- ^^ m ^ 
 
 ■km, &rsm. Or, ,. an , a Mrs. :E. A. TripP, Salt Lake 
 
 • 21E« paMffi A. ^aydec, aBMBUion w. ^^^ ^ d Mr& charies T . re maln, »f 
 
 Mia aaat Mirs.. -Ctortes «. Sn?te, -Mas- .j^ &w \ Yor j c , 
 
* Prof, and Mrs. Thomas C. Trueblood, 
 
 .Ann Arbor, Mich. 
 
 Judge and Mrs. Bartlett Tripp, yank- 
 ton, S. D. 
 
 Mrs. Clementine L. Trorlicht, St. 
 
 Louis, Mo. 
 
 * Miss Lillie Trorlicht, St. Louis, Mo. 
 
 * Miss Clementine Trorlicht, St. Louis. 
 Mr. E. P. Twohy, Spokane, Wash. 
 
 * Mrs. Harriet D. Tupper, Lestershire, 
 
 New York. 
 
 Dr. and Mrs. Harlan P. UsticK, Boise, 
 
 Idaho. 
 Mrs. Jessie H. Utsey, Mexico City, 
 
 Mexico. 
 
 * Rev. Thomas A. Uzzell, Denver, Colo. 
 
 * Dr. and Mrs. G. A Van Wagenen, 
 Newark, N. J. 
 
 * Dr. and Mrs. Edwin H. Van Patten, 
 
 Dayton, Wash. 
 
 * Mr. and Mrs. E. Villars, Carthage, 
 
 New York. 
 
 Mrs. Guy B. Waite, Whitestone, L. L 
 Miss Gladys d&. Waite, Whitestone, L. I. 
 Mrs. C. L. Watermann, New York. 
 Miss Mary E. Wait, Evanston, IU. 
 Dr. J. E. Walker. Hornell, N. Y. 
 Mr. John H. Waddeli, Santa Cru z , Cal. 
 
 * Miss Annie Wallace, Rochester, N. H. 
 Mr. and Mrs. Emil A waltenberger, 
 
 Louisville, Ky. 
 Miss Mita Waltenberger, Louisville. 
 Mr. Fred H. Ward, Portsmouth, N. H. 
 
 * Miss Florence M. Ward, Portsmouth. 
 Mrs. Mary E^* Ware, White Castle, L.a. 
 Mr. David B. Watson, Pittsburg, Pa. 
 Mrs. Philomena Wehag-e, Cincinnati, O. 
 Miss Frarices Wehage, Cincinnati, Ohio. 
 Miss Marie F. Webb, Mobile, Ala. 
 
 Mr S. A. Weber, RocKyiUe Centre, 
 Long Island. 
 
 Mr. F. I. Webster, Turners Falls, Mass. 
 
 Miss Margaret G. Weed, Jacksonville, 
 Florida. 
 
 Mr. W. E. Weed, Cincinnati, Ohio. 
 
 Miss Sarah Weed, Flushing, L. I. 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. F. H. Wellcome, Minne- 
 apolis, Minn. 
 
 * Miss Su>san A. Wentworth, Boston. 
 Mr. Louis A. Weisse, Sheboygan 
 
 Falls, Wis. 
 
 Mr. Henry K. Werner, Allegheny, pa. 
 Mrs. Pauline K. West, Binghamton, 
 New York. 
 
 * Mr. Alonzo A. West, Maiden, Mass. 
 
 * Mr. and Mrs. William Webb Wheeler, 
 
 St. Joseph, Mo. 
 Mr. R. H. White, Mt. Sterling, Ky. 
 Mr. and Mrs. W. H. Whyte, New York. 
 
 * Mr. and Mrs. Amos O. White, Fre- 
 
 mont, Mich.- 
 *Mr. Hart W. Whitmore, La Porte, Ind. 
 Miss Mary E. Wilcox, PainesviHe, Ohio. 
 Mr. and Mrs. D. D. Williams, Boise, 
 
 Idaho. 
 Mrs. Charles W. Wildings Malone, 
 
 New York. 
 
 * Mr. and Mrs. W. H. Willey, Los 
 
 Angeles, Calif. 
 
 Mr. Dana Wiley, Los Angeles, Calif. 
 
 Mrs. William H. Wilkinson, Bingham- 
 ton, New York. 
 
 Mi. and Mrs. G. A. Wilson, Chautau- 
 qua, New York. 
 
 Mr. T. J. Wisecarver, Pittsburg, pa. 
 
 * Mr. Jno. T. Withers, Jersey City, N. J. 
 
 * Mr. and Mrs. Herman H. Wiendieck, 
 
 Reo. Bluff, Calif. 
 Mr. William A. Williams. Lockport, 
 
 New York. 
 Mr. and Mrs. N. B. Winfrey, Kansas 
 
 City Mo. 
 Mr. and Mrs. George Wolters, San, 
 
 Francisco, Calif. 
 Miss Meta A Wolters, San Francisco. 
 
 * Miss Juliane Wolters, San Francisco. 
 Dr. Ruth M. Wood, Los Angeles. 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. Henry F. Woodruff, Ames, 
 
 Iowa. 
 Mr. Warren O. Woodward, Norwalk, 
 
 Conn. 
 Mr. and Mrs. William T. Yale, 
 
 Jamaica, N. Y. 
 
 * Mr. and Mrs. F. S. Yale, Jamaica. 
 Miss Polly Burr Young, Liberty, N. Y. 
 Miss Louise P. Young, Liberty, N. Y. 
 Mrs. J. H. Younger, Santa Cru z , Calif. 
 James Carlton Young; L. H. D. F. R. 
 
 G. S., Minneapolis, Minn. 
 Mrs. Young, Minneapolis, Minn. 
 
 Mr. Edward Zeisz, Covington, Ky. 
 
190 
 
 A summary by states 
 homes of the tourists, on 
 
 Ohio 
 
 Xew York 
 
 Pennsylvania 
 
 Missouri 
 
 Utah 
 
 Colorado 
 
 Minnesota 
 
 Nevada 
 
 Connecticut 
 
 Ne-v Jersey 
 
 Indiana 
 
 Oregon 
 
 Virginia 
 
 Ontario, Can., 
 
 Louisiana, 
 
 Rhode island 
 
 Alabama 
 
 V ermont 
 
 Tennesee 
 
 Maryland 
 
 Alberta, Can. 
 
 South Carolina 
 
 Quebec, Can. 
 
 Germany 
 
 and 
 
 the 
 63 
 97 
 51 
 31 
 30 
 
 21 
 16 
 
 15 
 
 12 
 
 11 
 
 10 
 
 countries 
 Cruise. 
 
 SUMMARY. 
 snows the diversified nature of the 
 
 Illinois 
 
 California 
 
 Massachusetts 
 
 Iowa 
 
 Michigan 
 
 Georgia 
 
 Washington 
 
 Wisconsin 
 
 Kentucky 
 
 New Hampshire 
 
 Washington, D. C. 
 
 Idaho 
 
 North Dakota 
 
 Montana 
 
 Nebraska 
 
 West Virginia 
 
 Manitoba, Can. 
 
 Florida 
 
 Kansas 
 
 South Dakota 
 
 Texas 
 
 Honolulu, T. H. 
 
 Mexico 
 
 74 
 55 
 36 
 32 
 23 
 
 17 
 
 16 
 
 13 
 
 11 
 
 11 
 9 
 
 I 
 7 
 6 
 5 
 5 
 4 
 3 
 2 
 2 
 
 
 
 
 
Reprint from New York Dramatic Mirror of January 8, 1910 
 
 GEORGE TOME BUSH 
 
 George Tome Bush, pic- 
 tured above, was born Sept. 
 24, 1867, in Bellefonte, Pa.. 
 his present home. His father 
 was Daniel Bush, prominent 
 attorney, politician and real 
 estate man. George Tome 
 received his education at pri- 
 vate schools in different 
 places, finally going to 
 Swarthmore College and fin- 
 ishing up in a special chemis- 
 try course at the Pennsylva- 
 nia State College, class of '87. 
 He had to drop his chemical 
 education by reason of the 
 death of his father and take 
 charge of the estate at home, 
 which he has been doing ever 
 since. Mr. Bush took a great 
 deal of interest in athletics, playing on the football teams for 
 many years, both while in and after leaving college, and has 
 since showed his continued interest by refereeing football games 
 and officiating at many athletic contests of many kinds. He 
 is one of the official referees of the Intercollegiate Football 
 Association. He is a thirty-second degree Mason and a Knight 
 Templar, being a member of the Grand Commandery of Penn- 
 sylvania, having held several minor offices in that body. He 
 is also a life member of the Sons of the Revolution, and was 
 National Delegate of the League of American Wheelmen for 
 twenty years, a member of the Nobles of the Mystic Shrine, a 
 member of the American Philatelic Society, correspondent for 
 many years of the leading city dailies, and has held numerous 
 offices in many other societies and organizations. Mr. Bush 
 has traveled considerably over the United States and Canada, 
 and also toured through Europe, and at present is on a tour 
 around the world, expecting to be gone about six months. He 
 is now representing The Dramatic Mirror for the twenty-first 
 year, having first qualified as correspondent in 1890. He is a 
 keen dramatic critic, analyzing both the plays and the players, 
 and criticises plays for the local papers. 
 
ocr ?f jpn 
 
MAP OF A TOUR OF THE WORLD 
 
 mm 
 
 *££av 
 
 &NFRANCIXD 
 x LOS *Jt 
 \NOELEfr 
 
 Made by George T. Bush, Bellefonte, Pa., beginning January 15, and ending July 25, 1910. Three months were 
 on the "Cleveland" from San Francisco to Cairo, Egypt. 
 
One copy del. to Cat. Div. 
 
 OCT 21 l»l|'*1