T T o. i--> IT GOODS FINISHING AMERICAN SCHOOL ofCORRES CHICAGO I ILLINOIS ^ fi Class _7l71VS Book nvT Coipght N°. C0I1-KIGHT DEPOSIT. CIRCULAR SPRING.BEARD NEEDLE LOOP WHEEL MACHINE FOR MAKING PLAIN WEBBING Toiiipkiiis i3ros. Co. KNIT GOODS FINISHING INSTRUCTION PAPER PRKI'ARKD by M. A. Metcalf Maxaging Editor, "The Textile American" AMERICAN SCHOOL OF CORRESPONDENCE U. S. A. ^ Copyright 1909 bv American Schooi, of Cokresponiiknce Entered at Stationers' Hall, Logdon All Kights Reserved Cla.fc. E'l tT'JT JUL 14 t909 ^^ OC/^I^C: KNIT GOODS FINISHING AND FINISHING MACHINES One of tlic marked characteristics of the time is tlie increased deniaiid for ready-made fjarments. The first demand for this grade of clothing seems to have l)ecn by sailors fitting out in New Bedford for long whaling voyages. So many men going out of port at one season of the year influenced an enterprising store-keeper to have a lot of clothing made up ready for the rush. This was before the sewing machine was invented; and the clothing, though far from stylish, was conifortaV)le and duralilc From this small beginning came the enormous clothing industry of totlay, with its many branches, including men's clothing, ladies' clothing, muslin underwear, children's dresses, skirts, shirtwaists, infant wear, knitted underwear, etc. Before the sewing machine came into use, the clothing industry was being rapidly developed, and this undoubtedly served, in a large degree, to spur on the in- ventors to produce a sewing machine. The growth of the industry has been marvelous. It is, and always has been, a great incentive to the sewing machine manu- facturers to exert their inventive faculties, and in this large special field, a profitable market is found. Large and profitable concerns have been developed in the ready-made garment industry because the manufacture of garments in large lots makes it possible to offer them at prices that conuuand attention and in better style than those turned out by the average tailor or seamstress. The knitted underwear branch of the clothing industry early saw the advantage of concentrating its help under one roof and under the skill and guidance of experts, and they, quicker than any other branch, also saw the great advantages of special machines. As a result they have today the best e(|uippcd factories in the ready-made garment business. Almost every operation, in fact every operation, has a special machine designed and adapted to perform that part of the work. It is an unusual thing for an operator to make a gar- KNIT GOODS FINISHING iiiciit coinplctc ill a Uiiittid midciwcaf t'actorv. After leaving tlic cutter in l)iiiulle.s of one dozen each, liiey ])a.s.s .siieeessively llirc(ii;,'li different operators' liaiuls for almost every operation. KNIT (lOODS FINISHING Since ttie nianiifactin-er of knit floods lias iindcrtaken to pro- mote liis sales liy direct ])ersonal solicitation, the details of finishinf; have hcconie almost innunicral)le. When knit ij;oods weri' marketed ehiedv hv the commission honses it was customary to sell the goods as the sample was made up, hut when the mannfactnrer, to close his sales, sought to do a httle better than his competitor and ofi'ered to "oat-stitch", to put on Prussian hinding, or four buttons instead of three, or |)car! liuKoiis instead of bar, or a ribtail instead of In in, or collarette instead of liinding, or stitched with silk, or one (juality of golloons here, and another (piality of JMittoiis — cloth, bar, ivory, bone, shell <)i' pearl — single slilclied, two needle stitched, or three rows of stitches, or some of the inmmicrable catch features a(la])table to the finishing of underwear, he built up for himself and for the entire trade an interminable nunduT of styles to ])erplex himself as well as his helj) and retard ])n)dncliiin ; be\ the u.se of silk yarn, yet many very satisfactory fabrics are made from lisle thread and mercerized cotton; fibers that arc much cheaper than silk. Such fabrics retain their style, shape and lirilliancy through much hard usage, and many trips through laundries. Indeed, the problem seems to be that on the medium-priced garments the trimmings, which are necessary to present a sufficiently neat appearance, must be of a somewhat better quality than the fabric itself, in order to wear as well. Making Up Samples. In making up samples for an approach- ing season, the designer's field would appear to be somewhat limited, from the fact that the general styles or character of these garments have now become standardized, and are in a measure arbitrary. Thus the vest or shirt of a two-piece suit will allow of but little altera- tion from the usual shape, except in the length of sleeves or cut of the neck; and with the pants and drawers which complete these KMT GOODS FINISHING suits there is still less opportunity for change. In the case of one- piece or union suits, which are intcjfra! from neck to ankle, these restrictions also exist and are, if anything, more arbitrary than with the two-piece styles. Under sucli usly determined as to weiglit, firmness, etc., is sufiieient of it.self for tiie rc(iuirenuMits of the season, and any extra thickness beyond this often proves un- comfortable to the weariT. The seams that are introduced to unite the several parts into a garment must also be flat as well as strong, and without any un- necessary ridge or corded a|>])carance. These are prime essentials, which may be considered as standardized, and having provided for them in a satisfactory manner the linai dclaii of finish may be con- sidered. A certain amount of this, is, of cour.se, indcs])cnsable, as it is recpiired for the practical |)urposes of fastenings in the form of buttons, lacings, etc., and as l)indings, facings, hems, etc., for pro- tection of llic several openings and cNticmitics of the garments. In .selecting the nuitcrials for tiiese ])ur|)oscs, iiowever, many ]>leasing eiVeets are possible, and they may be made to serve in a decorative sense as well as being utilitarian. Selection of Materials. In selecting the nature and (piality of fiber or material from whicii the fal)rie will be made, it is necessary that the detail of color shonlil be con.sidereil in conjunction, liecause if a specific hue or shade has Ijcen predetermined, and a dye or other KNIT GOODS FINISHING artificial agent is necessary to produce tiie desired result, the especial fiber known as the most favorable vehicle must l>e chosen; for among the many generic dyeing agents, or their mordants, some are more perfectly adapted to a specific liber than olhcrs. If a natural color is desired, that fiber wliich lias the cleanest appearance wiicn in this state must be selected. Havina: determined the fiber, color, and aannc of the faiiric, and having a finished jiicce of cloth bcfoic him, the designer's task is to shape the pattern or cut of the garuunt, and to decide on an amount and (juality of finish or trimming that seems necessary and a|>pr(ipriatc. This is essentially the chief's province, in which there is recoiu'se to no assistance excepting that rendered by the makers of whatever finishing material he needs, such as facing, bands, bind- ing, lace, buttons, etc. Style of the Garment. The stvh- of underwear in most general use is the two-piece suit, consisting of shirt and drawers, or vest and pants. Tlie one-piece or union suit, however, is fast coming into vogue, and it has several points of superiority that appeal to a large class of users. While there is no intention to estalilish a comparison, one, and probably the principal, advantage of the union suit may be mentioned. This is the absence of a d()ul>le thickness of fabric around the lower part of the body and hips, for, as the garment is of one integral piece from neck to ankle, it adds but a single thickness over any part of the body. Style of Finish, in selecting an ap|)rii])riate amount of finish for all styles of these garments, a great deal of care and taste is re- quired, for if too much finish is impo.setl, or if it be gaudy, the desired effect is at once destroyed; this being especially true of the more expensive grades. In the detail of ner'k finish, for instance, while a novel effect is always sought for, either by the aid of lace, binding or a piece of the fabric itself having been knit with contrasting stitches, any material that produces a poor effect is at once seen to be out of place. This is also true of tiie front facing of shirts, and bands on drawers. The l)Uttons also are made in an endless variety, .some being very beautiful, and they assist very materially in ])roducing a dressy effect. KMT GOODS FIMSIIIXG As rcfjiinls tlic color sclu'iiic of the <;armcnt, (here an- prol)al)ly as niaiiv varviii<; tlicorios on this siihjfct as there are wearers f)f the garments. So the prol)lein is to exliihit only that which will not offend. All efl'ect that is pleasing has trimmings of a slightly dis- siuiiliir shade I'liim (he hasic color of the integral garment itself. Maiiv times tlie very siinplicitv of a desij^qi serves to attract attf handlin;j; knit g Is, anil ihv various operations re(|uircd in die jirocess of linishing, is aliout the .same in all kinds of goods, either shirts or drawers, hut for convenience a dozen shirts, followed through the mill, will illustrate the successive processes thev undergo. The .systi'in of tracing the garments with the .Stetson I'oupon cheek is perha|)s regarded as the licst and most reliahle .sy.stem for that pm-prtse. Turning the Cloth. When the rolls of After drying out in the dry room or drying machine, and re- moved from the boards, the garments are sent to the finishing room where thi' process of finishing l)egins by girls looking o^■er them to see if the sizes are prop(>rly sortetl, and stamping the sizes on the skirt of each garment, attaching the Stetson coupon tag and sending them to the neck marker, who marks the neck with a "kicker," or ir. an up-to-date mill with a power marker. After the neck flaps are I'ut the stitcher performs her operation of stitching tlown the fiaps, and takes off the first coupon, it being the first piece-work performed on the garments. They are now carried to a cutting table, the fronts marked, cut down for the button stays and button hole facings, and are then turned over to the facer, who sews on the facing, detaches her coupon from the tag, and 10 KNIT GOODS FINISHING passes them over to the twin-needle machine operator, who covers the raw e. scNcral features in the linishing de|)artnu'nt that the larger munber of the mills have been .slow to adopt. In the.sc improvements are included an electric or power cutting machine, taking the |)lace of the old way of cutting with a knifi' following a slot in the cutting bench and pushing by hantl with Fig. i. EasliUHii Klectric C'li.Ui CiittliiK Machine. KNIT GOODS FINISHING 11 an up and down motion as witli a saw. Another departure is in the method of drying, a complete (h-ying machine being substituted for the old way of a large room given up to drying and wasting heat. The arramjemcnl of the tables — cutting, inspectors', makers', and other tables as well as the machine tables — depends greatly on the size of the finishing room. The cutting tables should be in close proximity to the knitting frames. If the cutting is done on a floor Fig. 5. WUlcox & Giblis "Overlock" Machine. above that where the loopers are, a chute can be arranged to slide the goods down near the loopers aftei- they are cut and bundled in dozens. To each bundle should be attached a patent tag, on which is printed a coupon for every operator who works by the piece to detach, in order to show the nundier of dozens she has done. The cutting may be done in the finishing room, if more convenient on account of the floor space. If there is space in the knitting room, it 12 KNIT GOODS FINISHING is more desirable to do the evittiuK there, tlie rolls of cloth lieinjj more awkward to handle than the bundled dozens. The seaniers should be near the loopers. The nearer all tliese several (.i..rati..ns are to each other, the less .lay-help is re.iuired to han.Ue tlie jroods, and it is folly to have operators of niaehines run- uiufT after tlieir work while tlieir niaehines lie idle. It .simply means more maciiines and nu.rc operators, and it is wi.ser in more ways than one to have little girls do what marking, and other preparatory work whic'h they arc capable of doing, carrying the work to tiie operators and taking it away, thereby getting the full production from maciiini'-;. EQUIPMENT FOR FINISHIN'C. 100 DOZEN K[-.\'l' GOODS AVII.I.CnX AND (".IBHS SYSTEM A good lini.shing ele of the heavy type, and their most important function is the stop-motion wliieh KXIT GOODS FIXISHTXG 15 is made necessary hy the nature of their particular operations. These machines are run at a comparatively slow spcc(l, hut the unremitting succession of shocks from the stop-motion is a factor which imposes the hardest kind of service on the tabic. All seamino- machines, antl some of those used for linishinji; are comparatively lighter than the class just mentionc(l, liut the load which they contribute is aildc(l to by the high speed which is rc([uire(l from them. About the only machines in use at the present period that may be called liylit, as well as light running, are the small, single-thread finishing machines, and if those were the (tnlv ones to Fig. 7. Wilk-ox & Uibbs Sewiug Macliine Table. contend with, the ordinary light, wooden table would no doubt suffice. Recognizing the re(|uirements as they now exist, however, it becomes most important to consider them carefully, and provide a foundation for the machines that will meet the new conditions, not only with reference to the e.s.sential of convenience, but especially in regard to the required aniomit of strength and stiffness to ade(|uatcly absorb any amount of vibration that may develop. The result would insure increased general efliciency of the machines, their usefulness would be prolonged indcHnitcly, and the table itself would be prac- ticallv indestructible. 16 KNIT GOODS FINISHING There :ire, of course, niaiiy (lifVeriiif^ ideas as to how a table should he eonstrueted. A stronj^, wooden tahle has many good points, and so has one with iron legs and wooden top. The hitter meets witli lli<' most general favor, however, and seems to emluMly a greater nund>er of desirable featm-es than any other. With refer- ence to this subject a si't of ilrawings lias been j)repared (See Fig. .S) that illustrates several views of a taliic which is designed to embody, in the simplest form, many features that have been proven to be essential, together with others that are souu-what novel; and it is believed that a combination of this (lescri|)tion would ctt'ectually meet all of the essential conditions tiiat may arise. Tlic design is susceptible of modilications to suit the individual needs of I'ach mill, or as the course of the product through each (lc])avtmcnt nuiy neces- sitate, but the general scheme will be icadiiy understood. In this table the legs are of cast iron, tlie main featiuc of which is a straight, tubular form of ])ost that is designed to be locateil as nearly as p(>ssii)lc under the point of load or strt'ss which the table top receives from each line of macliint's. thus securing llic most direct support and connection between the nuicliine bases and the Hoor. The feet of tlu-se ]«)sts are extended horizontally from opposite sides of each ])ost in a line parallel with the length of the table, and in this maimer assist materially as braces in this direction. Strong lag .screws which enter the joists or stringers where possible ensure a most eflV'ctiial fastening to the floor at these points. A feature which is second in iinportanee only to a good iloor fasti'iiing is that of su])porting the main shaft in its bearings, for in a long stretch of table the corres|)oiidiug length of shaft must carry a considerable weight of iron in the form of pulleys and couplings, and as this factor is always greatly exceeded by that of the straining l)elt.s, which are ncce.s.sarily .short and must therefore be kept at a tight tension in order to transmit the required anunmt of ])ow<'r U> each machine, the resultant of these two forces, weight and strain, becomes of great moment. To provide an adequate resistance against these forces at this point, therefore, it will be noticed in the drawings that the nuiin, or lower cross rail web has been (|uite heavily ribbe(l both top and bottom, making it of tin- 1 bi'aiii form In scitioii. In addition to tills provision for strength in the rail itself, its entis are .seen to dci>end KNIT GOODS FINISHING 17 gradually to their points of connection with each tubular upright mem- ber, thus giving the rail an arch form in outline, and providing ample strength for its purpose in any direction. The well known provision for adjusting each hanger in its rail for the purpose of aligning the siiafl is shown in section. The upper cross rail which supports the wooden top, is provided with a wide flange on its u|)per edge, through which the screws that secure the top are passed. Its mid-section is supported through two extensions of the web which connect respcctivelv at tvN'o points on the 18 KNIT GOODS FINISHING upper .side (>r llic lower rail, licitli tliesc iiiils ami tlie twn tiihlllar npriffilt DieniixTs are cMniliiiied in one iiile;iral eastiiij;, and tiurr are no joints for the purpose of adjustnient wiiatever, exceptinj,' the one lor the purpose of aliiiuini; the shaft. It is no doulit convenient, and sonirliuies neeessarv, that vertical adjustment for the table's top he pi'ovided, hut whcic it is not neees- sarv, it is doulitful if this provision In a practical one, for if not fastened verv securely, such adjnstahle joints are soon out of plaee, arxl the tallies top dedeetetl therehy as hailly, or worse, than any door would .s<-ttle in years. So if a talile cai\ he erected without them, it would he rif^'id to the utmost limit, and, thereafter, never need attention e.xeept as the huild- iufj it.self iiiifjht ehaufje, and in tliaf event any ehani;e would alVeci all points of the talile ('([ually, so if the shaft and the top were orifiinally in perfect alif;mnent 'their relation would never chauf^e. A .section of tlu> top is shown, the central jjortion of which is made of one-inch stock, approximately, and extends eontimiously over as many |)airs of leg.s, or supports, as its original lenj^th will permit. 'I'he two outer parts of each .section, however, are intended to l)c of nuich thicker stock — .say three inches — and will extend only from one le^ to the n<-xl adjacent one, thus proviper horizontal llaufjcs of the t\\ each one separately, it is well to consider them generally. Nearly all sewing machines lia\(' die eombinatiou of a nrrdir; a throat or cloth plate, through which the needle passes after piercing the goods, a needle thread loop-laking device, anii a |)laiii niachiiK', it caii 1)0 njciicrally stated tliat tlic t'coil must move laterally to t-arrv tlie floods as iiiiicli as is possible while it is aliove (lie ])late, tliat is, liave it appear aliove tlic jilalc as soon as possilile after the lieeille lias left the work, so as to have nearly all of its work done lu-fore it has to descend ajjain, therehy <;ettinj; the (greatest ainonnt of effective motion I'lR. ». SiiiBcr niiit.>ii Hull' Machine. with the least amount of actual motion; for the four motion fird actuated l>y eccentrics (the easiest device known for luij;h speed) can- not he nuule to take the ideal path, hut takes tin- form of an ellipse. The ideal j)ath would he a parallclojfram. This couM he ohtained hv haviutr the raisint; motion take place hefore anv lateral motion ahove the plate, and the drop motion iiefore the return helow, hut it is not suitalile for high speed, because the sources of motion would KXIT GOODS FINISHING 21 need to he intermittent, one waiting for tlie other, and ohtainahle only with some form of eams, which are iiard in their action and iaeiv effective means for taking up wear. Tliread controlling devices, such as takeups, and, of course, tensions, are common to all machines; and no small part of the adjusters' art is needed to properly manipulate these inoffensive appearing hut highly necessary parts of the general whole. Plain Finishing Machines. The plainest form of sewing ma- chines embraces the \Mllcox & Gihhs and Union Special types. They are one needle, single-thread, chain stitch machines in the high-speed class; and on work where this form of stitch is acceptable are very Fig. 10. IJuttons Sewed un by Maclimf. The .Ntw VVa,.v ui'iuiuiedj and lUe uld Way (untriiumed). economical, not only on the fpiestion of thread, hut as to their ease cf manipulation hy the operator, and small number and simplicity of parts. When onci.' in good working order tluy rarely need the atten- tion of the adjuster, and whin troubk' occurs it is easily located. The Needle. It is realized that the item of e.\pen.se for .sewing machine needles is large, and the practice of .saving those which have been di.seardcd and sorting the seemingly good ones out for use a secoufl time, is perhaps an economy in .some cases. The evils which an imperfect needle can eau.se are so many however, that it is of the greatest importance to nuike sure that this implement is not at fault. An intimate and e.xten.sive knowledge of sewing machines antl their habits has proved conclusively that it is a wi.se plan not to U!5e 22 KNIT GOODS FINISHING a needle a second time. If a machine is l)reakin<; more n<-e(lles than it should, tliere must lie some wroii;;- condition of adinstment. Tliis should he lookeil for and correete(l. The Loopcr. liavini;' made sni-c of a ^ood needle, llic loo])er, or liook, niusi he examined and made perfectly smooth with crocus cloth. 'I'he |)oint mnst he i's|)ccially smooth and of the proper .shape. If it has heen liroken or worn hhmt, a carcfnl ffrindini; or stoning will restore it to the most favoralile condition for taking a loop. If this process has shortened the length of the point niaterially, it may be necessary to change the spot on the shank so as to time the loopcr a trifle (jnieker. In the I nion .'-special l\pe the loojjcr may lie <|nickened liy lengthening its driving rod. As the point of a loopcr will allow of hut little remaking this shonld he done with great care, for if too nnich is taken oil' it is n.seless. It may also lie fonnd that the thread has worn a groove, or crease, in the neck of tin- loopcr, wIhm'c the loop, in the conr.se of forming the stitch, comes to a rest. This may he the cause of breakage, and many times can be stoned out without chang- ing its elVective form. In the liiion l-ljH'ial lv|)e of machine liie l(ier in its action travels very close to it. If it has by any chance become bent, so the loo|)er rubs it, breakage of thread is sure to follow, cither b\ being pinched olV between the two ])arts, or by their roughness froTU the too close contact. 15efore the nuichine is ready for a test, look over all the eyelets or guiding holis through wliiili the thread passes. The.se must be smooth and ro\md, that is, they .should not have sharp corners over which the thread, in |)assing or being drawn up, will be compelled to take a sharj) angle. If a groove or crease has worn in any of these, a new, smooth one is necessary. If a machine breaks the tlucad in the chain, the trouble is most likely with the feed, or jiresser-foot, ])er- haps both. The bottom of llii' ])resser foot nnist be smooth and have a bearing from end to end on thi' feed points. It should also rest its whole length on the throat jilate when the feed is down. The needle hole and |)late nuist also be examined for rough |)laees. KNIT GOODS FINISHING 23 The Feed. A feed that is new and excessively sharp, or one that has been worn dull, may cause a breaking of the thread. In the latter instance, the chain will not be fed away from the stitch-forming position positively enough. If a feed is too sharp, we have the emery and crocus cloth remedy. If dull, it can be annealed and the teeth refiletl to their proper .shape. Many times the sharp burrs or edges of feed points nuiy be rubl)ed oil' with the wire side of a file card. Skipping the Loop. The causes for skipping (or missing) stitches generally lie in the needle and looper. If this is the trouble, first make sure that the machine is threaded properly. Then see that the needle in raising throws out its loop favorably for the looper point to enter. If the loop is not large enough, try the needle a little lower still, say one-sixteenth of an inch. If not enough, then try it a little lower still. It is not best to have the eye of the needle over one- eighth of an inch below the under-side of the looper point when the needle is at its lowest po.sition, and this may be considered the most favorable condition in nearly all ca.ses. The exceptions might be when unusually hard or .soft material is being sewed; and if, after trial, a lower po.sition of the needle seems better, it will probably be necessary to make the time of the looper a little slower, thereby allowing the lowered needle time to ri.se and open out its loop before the looper jioint gi'fs to it. If the loop does nyt open out .stpiarely before the looper point, the neetUe may be turned in its holder, or if it is spotted in the needle bar, the bar may be turned in the recjuired direction to make the loop open favorably. Loopers having short, slim points should be set so as to pass by the needle very closely, Init not touch it, for, as a rule, the needles in such machines throw a comparatively small loop. In machines which carry a broad, longer looper, it will be found that the needle's eye is driven farther below the looper point, and has more of an up- wa/'d movement before the looper point gets to it than is the case with the other. The vibratory type of loopi'r may be set (|uite close to the needle on its forward, or loo])-entering stroke, and as elo.sc to the needle on the return, or backward, stroke as is possible and touch it. These adjustments of the looper in relation to the loop retainer are quite vital points, and it is essential to have them correct before much else is done. 24 KNIT GOODS FINISHING Skij)|)in<; tif stitches and tlirca(I-l)rcakinji; oaii often lu- traced to poorly workiiij; tensions. 'I'lie tliread friction discs must alwavs he free to move on tlie post and lie dear of lint. If llic thread lias worn creases in tlie faces of the discs, they will not control the thread evenly. The sprinj; also must he of the ])roper streni;th, yet perfectly lle.xihle. If, havinjr exhausted oiu- list of remedies, the thread still ])ersists in hreakin^', it is hut fair that the (piality of liic tincad he considered, for a small proportion of the thread which is made will not run on any machine, and it liecomes a useless expenditure of time to try to make it do so. ' High Speed. The mailer of sjm'ciI also is to he considered. Be- yond a certain limit in e\fry machine, excessive speed is actualiv more detrimental to a manufacturer's interests than too little, foi' once let a nia<-liiiic lirciime racked and \\cirn fium this cau.se, its usefulness is over, and rejjeated overhauliufis heeome more and more nece.s.sary. In response to the user's standing retpiest for hiffh-speed machines, the desif^nei's work is constantly carriecl on with this as one of the inijiorlant cuds in \ ieu , and no ilouhl liini- will pi'oduce machines caj)ahle of 1,()(H) and even .'),l)Ol) revolutions per minute. Two Thread Fini.ihiiHi Machines. In takini; up for consider- eration those .sewiiifj machines which u.sc two threads in makiiiff their stitch, we enter a more intcrcstin<; and instructive dcpartnieul of the whole sewiufi; machine art and a|>])licalions, and it is esjK'cially inter- estinsr when cousidereil in c-onneclion with the mamifacture of knit goods, for the xvvy peculiar nature of this fahrie at once pmhihits the use of a stitdi that mii;ht he perfectly .satisfactory on goods of a firm texture. We may know this from the fact tluit thousands of machines which make the familiar two-thread, so-called lock stitch, with a shuttle and hdiihin, arc cm|)loyc(l exclusively in making- up our heavier outer garmcTits, and al.so underwear, which is made from nuislin and linen. These fahrics all are of a firm and non-elastic nature, .so there need \>v no dill'ercnt element re(piircd in the sewing stitch which enters so largely into thi-ir eomistruclion, ancs on the garment and are not contimions as in a seam, .so the cle- ment of elasticity is not rc(|uiretitcli, is much more elastic tiiaii (he iock-stitcli, and is, therefore, peculiarly ada|)Icd for use in making garments from knit goods or any material of (hat nature. It is clastic for the reason that a surplus lengtii of thread is introduced into eacii stitch, i"ith in the knot or tie of (lie two threads together, and a.s it is laid on tlie sinfa\' the nioviui; eye- lets. For this reason, the thread is not served hack and forth so nmch, and therehv fravelainly their relation to one another. In actual practice a machine with pro])erly ailjiisted tensions and eorrectlv operatinj; stilch-foriniiif; ini|)lements will i)roduee a perreelh smooth and even stitch which can l>i' stronger than the fainie itself, givi'ii the pioper ipiality of thread. KNIT GOODS FINISHING 29 Tension. The matter of tensions is a very important one in all sewing machines, and we may sav tliat it becomes more so as the speed iiii Fig. In. "Overloek" Seam for Sides afld Gussets. factor is rai.sed in each successive "new mode!" which is hrought out, Fig. 16. "Overloek" Seam for Slinnhiers and "Overloek" Concealed Stitch Hem for Shirts and Cuffs. for it must be borne in mind that the same functions exist and must be reckoneil with in every kind of stitch, wiiether it is made at a low 30 KNIT GOODS FIXISIIIXG or lii<;li rate of spccil. ( hw of these functions is that a never-varying (|u:intitv of thrcail must l)e measured off for final treatment by the stitcli-foriniiiu iuiplcuicMts, i.e., the ni'edie, looper, etc., in every in- (liviiliial ^tilcli, and tlic pvoMcui is to i)n)duce an even stitcli with tlie ffreatest amount of precision, and without ap])lyiug any un- necessary friction on the sev- eral threads. Trimminjj the Seam. An- ollicr cicuicul of jj;rcat interest to us in the development of a sewed seam on this peculiar fabric is the inception and sub- .se(|ucnt stajics of im])rove- mcnt of tlu- trinunini; devices whicli now arc used in con- nection witli tlic stitching mechanism. Previous to JSSO the hand-sheared scam prevaileil, but tlic inventive and ever alert minds of the sewing ma- chinc makers (juickly saw an opportunity, and at once be- 'ji-AU to consider the feasibility i>r idiiiliiiiini;' willi llic sewing mechanism an clficicnt trim- ming device wliich would per- form its office simultaneously \\ itii tlic making of the .seam, and thereby eliminate the slow, Kig. 17. ••overiiick ■• Over Eiiijf for .-^iiirLs iinii tcilious operation of shearing Cuffs and "(>verlorU*'Tallor-Mailo Seum , . i i i i fur shouiUcTs auu uussi'is. tlic projcctuig surplus by hand. '['he first trimmer seems to ha\c a|)pcarcd about ISSI), :iiid \\a> in the form of a circular di.sc with a portion of the disc left blank in onlcr thai the feed might operate frcclv. ()tlicr cjeviccs of niiimr ini|i(iilaiicc tnllnwci! at intervals, until the (h'vice whicli acted nn (!ic shear priiMiulc aiipcarcd. '1 his KNIT GOODS FINISHING 31 was practical and efficient, and was in use extensively for some years. Then came the trimmer, which operated with the ahrasix-e process, and finally a maehiiie was hrought out which eml)raeed in one com- |)lctc whole the three elementary functions of sewinn', triininin^, and coverinij; the seam at one time. This lirings us to the present day, and from all die \ariuns inven- tions for the purpose of trimming knit goods which we know of, i)ut two of them have survived and are used to any great extent. These are the abrasive trimmer, which is u.sed in conjunction with a machine making the two-thread, douiile-locked chain stitch we have already mentioned, and the shear trimmer, which is incorporated in the ma- chine eoml lining tiie three covered stitch functions. These two trim- ming devices have stood the test and proved to he very important agents in the process of making the two types of our present finely- developed, covered, elastic seam on knit goods. The Union Special Devvees Trimmer. The Union S|)ecial .seam- ing and trimming machine (^shown in Fig. (i) was the result of a combination of the Union bag sewing machine anil the Dewees trim- mer, which was effected about 1885. The sewing stitch is the two- thread, double-locked chain mentioned above, and the trimmer is of the abrasive type. This machine has stood the test of years as to strenglli, ihu'a- bility, speed, and general all-round efficiency. The trimming device is an original, unique, and effective one, requiring no sharpening of knives, is durable, can be operated at a high rate of speed, cuts a clean edge, and the amount of fabric lieyond the seam can l)e regu- lated to suit any material. It will |)erform its work satisfactorily for days, with practically no attention whatever other than the ordinary oiling of its parts. In the final development of the seam, after it has been seamed and trimmed, the garment is submitted to another operation, which employs one of the best designed Union Special machines. This is a side wheel cylinder, two-needle, three-thread machine, especially adapted to cover the trimmed seams on knitteil fabrics. The cylinder is small and permits of covering the seam of a very small sleeve or leg. Two parallel rows of stitches appear on the upper surface of the ma- terial, (or outer side of garment) while on the lower surface of the material, (or inner side of garment) the rows of stitches are inter- 32 KMT GOODS FIMSUIXG l()fkt'(l l)v ;i tlircail wliicli ciilircly comts ami draws down flal lliat portion of the fal)ric hcvoiid the scam. 'I'liis adds strciii;tli to llic seams to a {;ri'at dfijrt'o, besides producing; a very sijjlitlv and eoni- fortable result. The seam w liidi is made on this svslcm is nncul' the best which has ever been devised. It has great slrcni^lh, each stitch bcin<; l'astenent of the looper is hy the connectin<; rod from lower arm of needle har lever to the. looper holdi'r. After loosening the check nuts at eacii end of this rod, wliicli has a right and left hand thread at the ends, a slight turn in one direction or the other will move the looper to oi- from the needle. The needle .should ]>v adjusted with the deep groove towards the operator, and of such a iieight that the eye will he ahout three thirty-seconds of an inch helow the looper when the latter's point is just hack of the needle. In most cases this adjust- ment of needle and looper will ensure tiie mo.st favorable conditions for taking the loops of tiu'cad, hut some unusual conditions of thread or faliric mav re([uire a slight modification, and this nuist then ln'- come a matter of the adjuster's own judgment. Tcii.siaiis. In this machine the lower tension should he looser than the up|)er, hut the proper adjustment of either one will be found to vary with the quality of fa))ric'. That of a Iiard or non-elastic nature recjuires, and will stand, a tight tension, varymg with the strength of the thread. In st'wiug on knit goods of an elastic nature, the object is, of course, to [iroduct' a .seam which will he strong and at the same time just as elastic at the material itself, and it is obvious that the latter result cannot he ohtainei>th of these parts — take-up and Fig. 18. Mrrrow riuln CrorlH^l Niachlni'. nipper si)ring -are sensitive lo a large degree, and should not he mo\ed unless the adjnslcr is sure there is a reason for so doing. ThcWillcox & (jibbs"Ovcrl()ck" machine, (see Fig. 5) eomhiiies, in one complete wliole, the necessary nu'chanism to pro(hiee in one o|)eration a liimmed, joined, and covered seam, and makes tlie "( )ver- lock" stilch. in a|)pcaraiicc it is a radical departure from the long aeeeptetl type of sewing niaehiiie, cliielly owing to the ahsence of the familiar overiianging arm. 'i'liis novel di'sign is not unpleasing, liowever, and the luaihine is very strong and eonipaet. KNIT GOODS FINISHING 35 All the operating parts of the machine proper, are mounted on a single easting or frame, and this frame with its several mechanical functions is hinged to a plain box casting, which serves as a rigid base or support, and is also a receptacle for the oil which drips from the bearings, thus preventing an unsightly oil-soaked work table. This arrangement of the various parts makes them easily accessible, and all parts can be reached either from the top of the frame or from the under side, which is presented to view when the frame is raised up and backwards on its hinges. Adjustinq. ( )n the subject of ain is inserted in one of a series of holes in the trimmer-adjusting arm, hack of a stationary stop, and when it is against the stoj) this |)in is a limit for the narrow .seam. Another thmnli-pin placed in a hole in front of the stop, as far away as is necessary, to give the reipiircd change, will he a limit for a w idc scam. KNIT GOODS FINISHING 37 In operation this trimmer adjusting arm is held normally in posi- tion for a narrow seam by a spring, and when the treadle is depressed the trinuning parts are moved to the position for a wide seam. Setting the Trimmer. In setting the trinnner blades for seam- ing, the cutting edge of tlie lower blade should be adjusted even with the top of the throat-plate, or needle-hole piece. For concealed stitch hemming this blade must be a trifle higher, and for both purposes the cutting edge of tJie upper l)]ade nnist pass by that of the lower one a sufficient distance to ensure clean cutting of the fabric. The position of the upper blade is deterniine/// (I: Klg. 31. Merrow Scallop orSliell Stitch Machine. "^Phis [inisli is heautifiil aixl sulistanlial and is u.scd upon a great variety of fabrics such as heavy knit goods, eidcrilown garments, etc. I''ig. 22 represents tlie shell stitcli fini.sli, full size, as made l>v the machine on knit goods. 'Pliis macliiiic is used (o pruilncc shells of two, three or four stitches each as a foundation finish, ii|)on the edge of which a smaller shell finish is later made liy another style of shell machine KNIT GOODS FINISHING 39 The smaller shell finish made by a variety of this machine, upon the eflge of knit ojoods, is used separately for binding the edges of Fig. 33. Shell Stitch Finish. Full Size iiii:lit-\veiirht troods. On many classes of knit underwear two or more Fig. 23. Merrow Twu-XhrLaU Tniummt; ;iud ovcr-Sf aming Machine. courses of this fini.sh can be used to great advantage. Braid, tape or ribbon is sometimes drawn under the foundation finish. 40 KMT (JOODS FINISHING 'J'lic Mnrow Two Thread Tiimining and Ovcrseaming Ma- cliiiie, illii.stnilcd in Fig. 23, is primarily dcsigiu'd for oversoaniiiig two or more pieces of faliric togetiier, and is provided wifii triiiiniiiig devices for ciittinLC otV tlie edges of the goods siiniihaiieously, aiierfection, and the results ob- tained are verv artistic and pleasing. ^^ hilc the obstacles to be over- come ill iliis liraiicli of the wnvk are not so numerous or as difficult as in .seaming, thev arc oftentimes troublesome, anj of the machine to re])lace the empty iHililiiiis with ni'wlv liilcd ones, as is the case with sliultlc or luck-stitcli machines. Tlic item of iiitcrniption in a day's woik is not incon- sidcral)k'. Kil,'. 'Jl. Wlllco.x & aibbs Lock Slltcli M.ioliine. Tlie mechanical (h'sij^Mi and constrnction of the chain-stitch type, in the matter of continuous rotary motions, and streni^tii and sim- plicity of parts, is more favorai)li' to lii^^li sjiccd than any lock-stitch type. For the.se rea.sons the chain-stitch machines are the most economical, hoth from the point of production, and care and expense of repairs. This stitch is also of advantai;e where an ornamental eH'e<-t is tiesired, as on vest and drawci- facinfjs, or on the etlfje of liindinic. The I nion Special l-inislicr. Tlic lini>liin^ machint' designed and i)uilt liv liic Inion Special Machine ( ompany has found fjreat favor for the latter cla.ss of work. Thev make either the two-thread KNIT GOODS FINISHING 43 chain or "safe elastic stitch," or the single-thread chain stitch, and if so desired, the two typos may he comhined in one machine, for the basic functions of hoth arc identical and the few necessary changes can be easily and (|uickiy made. This jjoint is of undoubted ail- vantage in the case of a small mill where the number of machines is limited, or when there is not enough work to wai'rant the investment for separate machines for eacli individual operation. In a large mill, however, it is much more economical to make this provision, for l>y so doing a machine when once adjusted to a nicety for its ])arti(iilar Fig. 25. Union Special Plain Fiuisbinc Machine. work may Ijc left so, and not re(|uire any further care from the ad- juster. One style of Union Special machine has been designed for finish- ing knit drawers. It is built on lines similar to tho.se just noted, and has the same genei'al characteristics. In .stitching on an inside band, where a silk finish is desired, this machine makes a beautiful, orna- mental stitch, greatly adding to the appearance of the garment. A large saving of silk is effected by using cotton thread in the needle, and silk, or a httiiig substitute, in tlie loopcr, care being taken to adjust the tensions so that tiic upper, or cotton thread, will not show on the under side. 44 KNIT GOODS FINISHING The Willcox & Qibbs Finisher. Tlic \Vill(()\ iS: (lihlj.s chaiii- >tit
  • iiicliii<;, Ixniif; especially :i(l:i|)l''y tlu' t'c-cciitric liail at the driven end of tlic ncc(ilc-l)ar lever. In some of these niac'liines it is jiossihlc to turn the needle in the bar, or the har itself, which is an advantaj^c when it is desired to throw the loo]) to or from the looper's point, thereliy favorinj; the latter a trille in handling; different ([ualities of thread. (lenerally, however, the loop .should tiirow, out .stpiarely with the line of feed. The looprr i.s po.sitioned in its rotary direction l)y a spot on its .shank which receives a .set .screw in the .shaft, and the only adjust- ment which is usually nece.s.sary for this implement is in its endwise position, to iniiiii it to or from the needle, if it seems desiralile to time tlu- looper a trifle <|uicker or slower, this may he aceonii)lislie(l by c'han<;ing the spot on its shank one way or the other with a fine tile. When Ihe needle and looper in this type iiiaciiine are in their proper relation to each other, it will be found that the tension, once adjnste,dlt, and, in ])assinj^ the iiccdh' on tl;e back side, thai the point will just clear the needle. This will ensure a ;j()od loop when the loo|)er ha.s advanced to meet it. \Vhen the looper makes it.s return throw to the KNIT GOODS FINISHING 47 right, the needle must pass tlie hack side of the looper with its point a httle to the rip;ht of the looper's eye, in order to take and liold this looper-thread until the next needle-loop is secured liy the looper, thereby locking or enchaining the previous stitch with the last one. In passing each other, the needle and looper should just clear on both strokes. These adjustments of the needle and looper may be varied a little to meet varying qualities of thread or material, but for ordinary conditions thev are correct. Enough tension should be used on both threads to produce an even stitch, l)nt if an clastic stitch is required the under tension should be considerably lighter than the upper. If either one fails to control the thread properly it may be found that a bit of lint has collected between the iliscs, thus holding them away from an even contact with tlu' thread. ]]'Iicii the under thread lies straight from the heel of the looper to the double-wire fork, and just before the approaching edges of the rotary take-up touch it, the nipper-spring should hold the thread fairly tight, for at this point in each revolution of the machine the required amount of TUider-thread for the stitch is determined. If it is desired to regulate this, it may be done l)y means of the set screw in the lug on the looper-rocker, the head of which rests against the free end of the under nipper-spring, and taking its motion from the looper-rocker, serves to open and close the two nipper-springs in con- tact with each other. As the take-up revolves it will carry the thread upward and back, so that the retaining wire will catch and hold it until the slightly lower part of the take-up is in a position to allow the cast-off to take place. The duties which are rc<[uirc(l of a feed and pres.ser-foot in this work are identical in all machines, so our treatment of these two func- tions will apply to both of the types under consideration. The fnp of the feed must be level and the teeth fairly sharj), but with no "hooks" or "burrs'" on them. If the feed points seem io be too sharp, or cling to the fabric, a good remedy is to hold them against a revolving wire brush, just enough to smooth the points and not dull them materially. The rise of the feed surface above that of the cloth plate will vary within certain limits, according to the weight and texture of the material to be sewed, but for general work this should be about 1-32 of an inch. 4S KNIT GOODS Fl NISII IXO .1 hiiK/nl prrssrr-j(it)t is tlic host for nearly all classfs (if work, for it ciiahlcs tiic scams of ijariiiciits to ]>ass Ix'twccii the fori! am! foot more siirclv, and will conform to the tii|> of the feed in any position, thns ensuriiifi a (irm hold on the material from a minimum amount of tension on the presser-har s])rinfi-. lu the ojM-ration of hindinj,^ it will lie found that the fee(l and press( r-foose, tlie I'riion Button Sewing IMaeliine Company and the "Singer" have a maeiiine especially designed aiul ada|)ted for sewing suspender stra|)s on drawers and making stays and hars at re(|nire(! |)laces in union suits and ladies' vests. It fastens the strap securely, rapidly arnl iu a proper manner. Zigzag machines have heen u.setl for .several purpo.ses after l)oing adapted more or k'.ss to the work re(|uired such as .sewing in gu.ssets of drawers, such a stitch covering the raw edge nicely, hesides sewing it on securely, 'i'hey are sometimes used for covering tiie edge of the cloth left raw after rumiing the necks. Sometimes a zigzag stitch is u.sed with "ood ellVct on the facinsis of garments, or for making hars at intersections or parting of the .seani.s on drawers, union suits, etc. For covi'ring the raw edge after I'uniiing the neck, llie I'nion Special 'Fwin-Xec(lle Machine makes a i)rctty ornamental stitcii, as well as etfectually covering it. It has two needles and otic looper, leaving two parallel lines of stitching on the hack and an interwoven fancy stitch over the raw edge of either silk, worsted or cotton thread, as preferred. It is the .same stitcli as made hy the cylinder side-wheel covering machine, though the twin-needle machine, .so called, for necking, is a regular (lat machine, it is also .sometimes used for catstitching, or wherever a prettv onianicut;d stitch is desired. (M'ten it is called a Necking machine. Tv^in^nccdlc and hvo-Ihic marliiiics are often confounded. Two- line niaclnues make two .se|)aral<' rows of stitching <>n hoth hack and front of work, and rc(|uire two needles, two loopers or hooks, and ii.se four threads. Two-needle machines are hy no means Always two- liui- machines. For instance, the .so-called twin-nee(lle or necking machine, has two needles, hut only one looper, and conse('araiice of the genuine loopinf^ method, and it is not now used to any great extent. Looper Trimmers. l'"or the purpose of a.ssistiiig the operator in her work, ami to irdiuc the amount of time nece.s.sarv for this opera- tion of looping, various automatic tlevices have heen introduced, whose ofKci' is to remove the surplus material projecting ahove the fee(l-wlieel points, and pre|>are the im|)aled loops of fahrie for the liiial sewing operation. This had pre\ioiisly heen r((|uiii'd of the operator herself, and while it dierate in various ways, the most jiractieal emhodying a comhination of the cutting and hrushing proee.s.scs. They have heen arranged for use on hoth the old-style looper and several of the snhstiliile pin-wheel machines. StraiglU-ISecl and Circular Loopers. For convenience in handling the various ela.s.se.s of undergarments during the looping proee.s.s, looping machines are made in two forms. One with a .straight heel on which a row of work-holding points are mounted to project along one of its sides, and having the stitch-making group of parts a.s.semhled on a traveling carriage. This form of machine holds the work stationarv while the iieedle-looj)er, etc., are automatically moved along the hed from point to point after each stitch is I'ompletiHl. The other form of machine is a circular one, in which the work- holding points are mounted to project from the periphery of a di.sc ahout eighteen inches in diameter. In operation this di.sc is given an automatic rotary feeding motion on its axis after the completion of each stitch. Thu.s it will be seen that the operating functions of the proecss in the two forms of machine arc e.xaetly in reversed order, KNIT GOODS FINISHIXG 55 one holding the work in position, while the stitches are inserted pro- gressively along the prepared edge of the material, and the other proceeding reversely to carry the prepared edge to, and by a stationary group of stitch-forming implements. The first, or straight-hed form is more peculiarly adapted for use on what is called "full-fashionetl" garments, and the circular form is most generally used for "cut goods." Character of the Stitch. In both forms of machine the stitchine functions are practically alike, and produce the same finished result. By different arrangt'ments of these j)arts in their relation to each other, and to the automatic fce "single stitch," "under and over," and "through and through" or "double stitch," and may use one or two threads, each style of stitch having its peculiar advantage for the work in hand. In some makes of machine the needle,! always a curved one), works from the inside or butt end of the points, outward, and others work in the reverse direction. Operation. In setting up the cir- cular looping or "turning-olf" machine, it must be fa.stened securely to a good table, similar in construction to the . „ ^ Fig. 37. Lonper Points. ones used for sewing machines. It need not be as wide, however, as it is never rc(|uireil fur hoUling the work during this operation, and also because the full diameter of the disc, and .several inches more must overhang the table's edge so as to be sure and provide amijle space for the work to revolve while depending from the feed points. The two pieces to be sewed together or loo[3cd are fastened to the di.se, so that one of the points shall pass through each of two courses of loops near the raw edges of the fabrics, which are in posi- tion with their faces together. The rotation of this di.se will then bring each pair of loops in succession to a point of e.xact registration with the neetUe, which travels in the arc of a circle directly over and parallel with each point when in this position. A groove or depression in the top of the points will allow the thread-carrying needle to enter each pair of loops, and 5G KNIT (iOODS FIXISIIIXG ill (■oiiiunction witli a ]>rii])ci-ly slia|)cil l(«i|)cr, wliiili ti|icnit('.s in time to meet the needle's thread, tlie twii I'alirie loops are securely and almost iMi|>eree])(ilily joinecl. In ordei- thai the machine may o])erate snccessful'y and per- t'ectlv, it is necessary to li'im lli<' raw edi^'es of material down to liie looj)s that are im|)ale(l n|)on the points. Unless tiiis is done and all the raveled threads and loose waste lie removed before jjassini; under the nee(lle, the seam will lie maile with an unsij^ditly welt. The speed of the maelniie i.s limited to the ahility of tiie operator in pnttiiifi the loops of fahrie on the points, and with tho.se who are most j'X})ert it can never l)c run more than 'MM or 400 stitches per minute. Adjustments. If tlie machine .skips .stitclies, examine th<- iiee registers exactly over the center of each iioint. Ski])ping is also often due to tlie liook or loo])er getting oul of adinstment. When taking the looper from the needle, the looper must slightlv rub the neiMJle when pa.ssing over it. The needle niav mo\e t piicklv or too slowly and thus be out ot time with th<' looper. When jirojicrlv timed, the needle's point in entering the looj) on th<- hook >h(iuld be one-sixteeuth of an inch from the hook, and just clear the hi'cl of the looper. The hook, after ])assing away from the needle, will again move forward and pass under the needle, just touchint; it. 'i'he hook will be about one-eighth of an inch from the point brass wlii'ii it is at its lowest drop. 1 1 is \ cry essential to have the hook jicrfcctly smooth and of such a shape as to kecj) the looji of ihi-cad from drojijiing oil', and also to allow it to sli]) oil' easily before the needle enters the new loop. Keep the thread taut v a large internal ijoar on tiu' drivintr ciiil of tlic inaciiiiie and the straight tooth rolls are fjjoverncd l)y tiic internal gear on the opposite end of the gig. The function of the straight tooth roils is to hold the cloth wliile tlie hent tooth rolls act upon it. They should he given enough speed to keep the cloth just slightly strained around the gig. A large change gear on the fceil shaft loosens th<' cloth and a smaller one tighten.s it. With a 9()-tooth gear on the sprocket stud it would re(|nire from a Is to a .')()-tooth gear on shaft. The napping is done j)rincipally l»v the hent tooth "worker." With a 1 lO-tootli gear on the sprocket stud, and a compound intermediate of .')2 and 2(1 it would refpiire from a oO to a 21 ]>inion on the shaft for napping. The smaller the ])ini()n the harder it will nap, say ^IS into .')2 and 2ti into 111), the .")2-2() being the com]K)un(l inl<'rmediate, to he varied as reipiired for the iliti'erent fabrics and the character of the nap. Napping "flat" goods, "straight-ribbed" goods and "jersey- ribbed" goods (or "fleece backs" and "plush backs") is better accom- plished on planrlari/ nappers, because they make a much shorter, thicker, and more evenly distributed nap than regular na])pers, and give a more velvety feel. The nap obtaiiuMi by this means is innili le.ss matted into knots or l)unches by rubbing or washing, and the fabric handles nuich thicker and fuller, even after washing and u.se. Planctarji nappvrs contain, principally, a napping drum, a cloth feed roll, a series of napping-rolls mounted upon the drum and con- taining ])oiTits incliiic(l in the direction in which tlu'v act upon the cloth; crimjicr-rolls containing ])ractically straight points mounted uj)on the napping drum and interpo.sed in the .series of napping-rolls, and a tension roll arranged to act on the cloth in ailvance of the nap- |)ing action. 'I'lie })lnrality of .series of nap-treating members are moimted upon the drum, so arranged that a dillVrenlial action is produced between the members of one series and the nimdiers of another .series. The result of this action on the cloth is .somewhat analogous to felting, inasmuch as the napper rolls raise the nap, and the other series of rolls .serve to bend or crimp the fibers and drive them in making a fell or "lleece." The mechanical construction of the David (lessner nap|)er is described and illn^trali'il to make the operation clear and compre- hensive. X u < s a z ? ^ < a z 1/5 V O •3 O " a KMT GOODS FINISHING 61 Referring to Figs. 30, ol, ol2, and 33. The frame is eomposed of the upright end ])ieees 1 1', eoiuieeted at the hottoiu hy tlie girders 2 2', which are united again crosswise hy brackets or stays 41 and 41', and at the top by the girders .53 and .")3 ' and carries upward 62 KNIT GOODS FIXISHIXG extensions 1"' V iiml liorizont;!! iiiciiiIxt 1', and a yoke on tlic side, jiarked I'. Nutnlicr •) is tlic main siiat't, rarrvinjj; tlic lii'ads re, on tiie outer pi'iipliery of wliicii arc nionnteii (lie napping-njlis a and tlie contact- rollers h, wliich arc callccl "rriinpcr-rolls," l)ecanse tlicir contact afjainst tlic ends of tlu' na[)|)C(l til)crs serves ti> licnd oi' crini[> (lie fibers witii a residt wliicii is analogous to felting. Nunii)cr 4 is the fast pulley, hy wliicii the main shaft is (lri\cii, and .') is tlic loose jiullcy. (i is a pulley, fast on the main shaft, from which liy the belt ')2 is driven a pulley 52°, fast on the inside of pulley 4!), from wlii, the Kelt S and the conical roller !) co-operating with the disk, the shaft 10, u])on which the conical roller is mounted, having its hearings in the l)ra(4\ets 11 and ]'_' and carry- ing at its lower end the pinion l.'i, which drives the gear 11, fast n|)on the counter-shaft l.'i. l'])on this counter-shaft arc (ixcd, on the in- side of till' frame, sprocket-w lie(4s Hi, Hi, (tlieic being one for I'ach end of the machine) from wlii(4i, through the sproeket-i'hains 17, are driven the sprocket-wheels IS, IS, (there being one at each end of the napping-cvlindcr), fast to the spiders I'.l. which carry the b(4t 20, which pa.sses around the .series of pulleys <;', a' on the ends of the .shafts «■' of the workers a. Wv raising or lowering the belt S any desired speed mav be given to the workers a for iiareasing or decreas- ing their napping eaoaeity inde|)endent of tlie speeil at which the cloth may be running, and independent of the speed at which the travelers b mav be running, and independent also of (he speed at which the main shaft is running. KNIT (JOOUS FIXISIIIXG 63 64 KNIT GOODS FINISHING The mcchdni.sm for drivini/ the cloth-feed rolls, i)f which 31 is one, is as follows: 21, 22 and 23 are sprocket-wheels fast to the main siiaft. 21', 22', and 23' are correspond injj; sprocket-wheels fast to the counter-shaft 24. 4.") is the sprocket-chain, l>y shiftinj; which from one pair of .said .sprocket-wheels to another the speed of the counter- shaft 24 may he vari(>d with respect to the speed of the nappinjif- cylinder. 2.") is a pinion fast on the shaft 24 and whiih drives a ^ear KNIT (iooDS FINISHING 65 26, fast on the shaft 29. Tlie pinion 27 is fast to the gear 26 and drives the gear 28, fast on tlie shaft oO, to which shaft the cloth feed roll 31 is fast. On the opposite end of the shaft 30 is fixed the sprocket 46, from which may be driven all other cloth feed rolls in the machine. The entrance tension-roll 60 is tlriven as follows: On the shaft 30 of the rear tlraft-roll 31 is fast a sprocket-wheel 61, which tlrives a chain 62, which drives a sprocket 04, fast on a shaft 65, carrying a cone 67, which drives a l)elt 08, which drives cone 69, fast on shaft 70 of the entrance tension roll 60. The chain-idler 63 serves as a take-up for chain 62. By shifting the belt 68 on the cones 67 and 69, the speed of the entrance tension-roll 60 may be varied at will relatively to the speed of the other feed-rolls and traveler-rolls. This adjust- ment is a feature of the utmost importance, because it vastly increases the scope of the machine with respect to the range of materials which may be successfully treateil by the workers a. ¥oy the purpose of enabling this adjustment to be made while the machine is running, and to be regulated to a nicety, the following mechanism is provided, whereby the operator may shift the belt 68. 71 and 72 are belt-forks fastened to the carriage 73, which is made to slide upon ways on the bracket 74, fast to bracket 41. By a screw-spindle 76, with hand wheel 75, nut 77, fast to carriage 73, is moved so as to shift said forks and belt 68 at will by the operator while the machine is running. By the adjustment last described the tension of the fabric Ijeing treated can be regulated to suit verv tender fal)rics, which bv too irrcat a tension are liable to be torn or stretched and narrowed, and by too little tension are liable to be dragged forward by the workers a, and thus slacked up in a manner causing disaster. The mechanism for driving fhc crimper-rolh- b is as follows: I'pon the opposite end of the shaft 29 from the gear 26 is fixed a pinion 32, which drives a gear 33, turning upon a stud 56. The gear 34 is fastened to the gear 33 and drives gear 35, fixed on the shaft 36, having its bearings upon stays or brackets 41 and 41°. The pulleys 37, 37, are fixed on the shaft 36 and drive the belts 38, 38, which extend around the pulleys b at opposite ends of the crimper- rolls b. These belts 38, 38, run under the idlers 39, 39, and over the idlers 43, 43, respectively, so as to substantially encircle all of the travelers b. Whenever the chain 45 is shifted from one pair of sprocket-wheels to another for the purpose of varying the speed of 6f) KMT COODS FlMSlllNC the clotli relatively to the .s])ee(l of the main shaft, a corresponding variation will he prodnetMl in the speed of the belts 38, 3S. There- fore anv chanjie in the speed of the cloth feed rolls, as 31, will i)e accompanied i)_v a eorresponding •(' licliinil (lie ojx'iatdr. The cliMin '.Mi i> helil taut by the idler (11 and drives the shaft (13, to which the fird roll 'u is fixed. Theme the driving j«)wer is transmitted through chain 91' to shaft 94, on which feed-roll 59 is fixed. Tiience the driving powc-r is applied to vil)ratiM<,' the folder 'li*" through the wheel '>'f and con- necting-rod o'.Y. The cloth enters the niachiiie uniicr the liar So and o\cr the adjustable tension-bar S-1, the adjustment of which is controlled by -segment cSo, cateh 86, and hand lever 87, at the end of the bar Ki. Thence it proceeds under idler 88, over the tension roll (iO, under and around idler 89, directly in front of the napping cylinder. The idlers 88, 89, and the tension-roll liO arc nioiniteil in brackets 90, whic-h are fastened to brackets -11 and II', extending across between tlie girders 2 and 2'. The directions of movement of the drum-c\ lindcr of cajert. 1. De.scrihe briefly the a(ljii.stment.s of the chain-.stitcli machine. 2. What are "nipper .spriiig.s" used for? 3. Descrilie the lie.st .sy.stem of traciiif; earmcnts. 4. AMiat jKiiiit.s .slioiiid he talceii into fon.sitieration in select- ing the material for a earment? 5. Wiat brought al)oiit the introduction of readv-made clothing? G. ^Miat is necessary to make mediiun-priced garments sell well? 7. Give in detail the finisliing process for flat goods. S. AAliat is done in selecting materials to insure natural color? 9. To what must the designer's efforts be confined in making new styles? 10. What are the point.s to be considered in the color scheme of a garment? 11. AMiat are the results of using too high speed on the present machines? 12. For what rea.sons is the old loo])ing or turning-off machine still kept in use? 13. Explain fidly the napping process. 14. Cla.ssify the types of .sewing machines, and name the dis- tinctive features of each. 15. Describe l)riefly an important improvement for turning the wcl) in knitted garments. Ifi. What care must be taken in regard to the seams uniting ditt'ercnt parts of a garment? 17. ^^^ly are knitted garm(>nts more extensively manufactured- than woven garments? IS. ^Miat is the style of underwear in most general use? What is the trend of the demand in that regard? KXIT GOODS FINISHING 10. W'liMl arc (lie rccinirciiiciits for a jiood (iiiisliiiii,' iiiafliine table y 20. Give a l)riet' liistory of tlie cieveiopiiieiit of llie triimiiiiif; device. 21. Describe (he Willeox & (libbs "Overlock" macliine. '22. Wliat are tlie points of likeness am! ditVcrciicc in llic two |iriiiii|ial finisliinj; machine systems? 2.'5. What dcl.criiiincs the linisli for all slyllcs for an a]i|)roacliin^' season, what seems to liinii the held of the designers? After completing the work, add and sign the followinjr statement: I hereby cerlily lliat tlie above wciik i> (■aliri;ly my own. (Signed)