^ A m LIBRARY OF 60NGRESsl Shelf ...?iX.C, fc UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. ttMBHHMaiHlBi ■■^h v», AND -HfcENVI RONSjte^ ILLUSTRATED. SAN AiNTONIO ENVIRONS By GEO. P. GOFF, ^. 1^., Author of " Nick Baba' s Last Drink." and other Sketches. ILLUSTRATED ' DEC lA LANCASTER. PA. : '^ INQUIRER PRINTING AND PUBLISHING CO., 1881. Entered according to act of Congress, in the year i8So, by GEO. P. GOFF, In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, Washington, D. C. TO MY FRIEND CHARLES W. HOFFMAN, LL. D., THIS VOLUME IS INSCRIBED, AS A MARK OF ESTEEM AND RESPECT BY ONE WHO KNOWS AND VALUES HIS FRIENDSHIP. T. W IV' CHAPTER I. SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. " Land of the prairies, hail ! Of birds and music, of flowers and beauty, Of loveliness and hope, — Peace be thy lot, Joy thine inheritance, and Holiness thy praise." j^"^' HE City of San Antonio, Bexar county, Texas, was at one time the capital of the Mexican province of Coahuila and Texas, and was settled by Spaniards about the year 1730. It is one of the principal cities in the State. Although a frontier town, and presumably, on that account, containing a rcugh element, it is noted for its obedience to law and order. It pos- sesses as much wealth, refinement, and good society, in proportion to its population, as any city in the Union. It is situated in the western part of Texas, on (9) lO SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. both sides of the beautiful San Antonio river, in a charming and healthful valley, six hundred and fifty feet above the level of the sea, and lies in the midst of a gently undulating region of country. It is two hundred and fifty miles from the nearest port on the Gulf of Mexico, and one hundred and fifty from the Mexican border. The population is about twenty thousand, and is rapidly increasing. On account of its mild and genial atmosphere, the town is fast becoming a winter resort for trav- elers, especially consumptives. The balmy air, laden with half-tropical perfumes, the bright sunshine and the brilliant verdure, all seem to inspire the sojourner with new life. The highways are brilliant with wild flowers of every hue, in the greatest pro- fusion, and intermingled in such harmony as only nature /can produce. The climate during a part of the year is very fine, and has been compared, by travelers and writers, to that of Italy. It cannot be better described than by the following lines : "Whatever fruits in different climes were found, That proudly vie, or humbly court the grountl ; Whatever blooms in torrid tracts appear. Whose bright succession decks the varied year; SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. I I Whatever sweets salute the Northern sky, With vernal tints that blossom but to die ; These, here disporting, own the kindred soil, Nor ask luxuriance from the planter's toil ; While sea-born gales their gelid wings expand, To winnow fragrance round the smiling land." This quaint old Spanish town, with its contracted streets and its ancient adobe houses projecting their roofs over narrow sidewalks, is built on the river, which takes its rise from springs of the same name, about four miles above the town, where the whole stream seems to break loose — bursting up in one great flood and sparkling on toward the city, through which it flows in a constant current of pure, clear, transparent, blue-tinted water. The stream receives in its course, below the city, the Medina, unites with the Guadalupe near the Gulf of Mexico, and is finally lost in the waters of Espiritu Santo Bay. This shining river is very tortuous, and has been aptly described as being everywhere. It winds its way, silent and rapid, over gravelly beds ; gliding through the city between mossy banks glowing with flowers and foliage. One never tires of watching it as it disappears under bridges, or is lost in the many turns in its course. It is eighty 12 S.-VN ANTOXIO AND ENVIRONS. feet wide, seldom rises or falls, and is of a most delightful temperature. The town at its settlement was so laid out that many of the dwellings, and even the stores, have gardens extending down to the river. Some of the inhabitants have taken advantage of this and im- provised a sort of bath-house formed of light frame- \vork, covered with cotton cloth, the whole resting on a float, made of two large casks caulked and made water tight. Nothing can exceed the picturesque appearance of these floating baths as they sway and bob in the rapid running stream, their pure white coverings contrasting so charmingly Avith the green sloping banks of the river, and the waving, luxuriant semi-tropical vegetation. The San Pedro Springs are about one mile from the Alamo Plaza, where a very pretty park has been laid out, and made more lovely by collecting the water from the springs into a series of small lakes, bordered with shady walks and crossed by rustic bridges. This park is the resort of the people for recreation, contains some native animals, many curiosities, and a restaurant. San Antonio presents to the observant traveler the aspect of a staid ancient city being slo\vly but surely crowded out of existence by the irresistible and ceaseless march of progress. 14 SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. A new people have rushed in, and the thin- blooded native shrinks aside for the new-comer, basks in the sun, and beholds, in amazement, the rising palace, towering far above his low, flat- roofed adobe or stone hovel, and sees also, the modern business structures push from their places the one-story, half-battlemented, loop-holed dwell- ings of a long past period. He draws his once rich and bright, but now faded poncho about his stooped shoulders, and slinks away, breathing a curse, and a sigh for the past, when he sat unmo- lested, in plenitude of idleness and sunshine, free from the bustling ways and strange habits of the intruder. This odd old place is truly cosmopolitan in its mixture of races, costumes, languages, architecture, and religion ; an aggressive promoter of new ideas, and a silent, fading witness of the past — linking an- tiquity to the car of modern progress. Here one may hear a confusion of tongues — a melange of nationalities — Americans, Irish, Eng- lish, Germans, Poles, Jews, French, Swiss, Mexi- cans, Spaniards, Italians, Indians, and Negroes. The extremes of wealth and poverty may also be observed, with every intermediate grade — the beggar, mounted on a forlorn-looking mule or ass, 1 6 SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. seeking alms in a princely sort of way; the boot- black, smiling and happy in his rags and independ- ence, CGntente?nent sans richesse, with the imple- ments of his trade slung over his shoulder, and the persistent business-like '■^ Shine 'cm up;'' the fash- ionably dressed lady ; the meek-looking, scantily- clad Mexican woman ; the aristocratic caballero, mounted on a mustang and wearing a rich Spanish costume, composed of a broad-leafed hat decorated with solid silver ornaments, short buckskin vest with sleeves open to the elbow, and fastened with silver buttons ; pantaloons of skin or cloth, also trimmed with silver buttons, and bordered with wide bands of velvet, open to the hips, but but- toned from the knee upward, and a rich sash of blue or red silk, fringed ; the serious-looking business man ; the gentleman without apparent occupation ; the saucy-looking market boy serving his customers from a low, two-wheeled cart, drawn by a brisk donkey not much larger than a full-grown New- foundland dog : the Mexican hay-vender, mounted on the same style of donkey, minus the cart, and completely covered with his own merchandise ; trains of ox-teams hauling strong but rudely con- structed two-wheeled carts, covered with canvas, and drawn by as many as twenty yoke of oxen, SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. 17 with the yoke not upon the neck, but lashed to the horns of the animals ; shop windows gaudy with a mixed display of Yankee notions, Mexican needle- work, earthenware, wax figures and leopard skins; and the female bird -trappers, or Pagarias, their cages filled with a collection of both gay and sober plumaged birds, waiting for a customer, with their patient, expectant faces half concealed in the folds of a well-worn shawl, drawn about the face in the manner of a hood. A fitting accompaniment to this human medley is the '' Hackal," the home of indigent Mexicans and half-breeds. This place of residence is like nothing else of all the known habitations of mankind, and is very little better than the abodes of the cave-dwellers. To the uninitiated it seems an impossible structure, and yet it is there. Commencing with a hard-packed dirt floor, it rises a composite of sticks, old tin roof, sail cloth, broken stove-pipe, boards and poles, the whole roofed in with dried prairie grass, matted together and kept in its place by weights. Here the in- mates dwell in listless idleness and hopeless pov- erty, with the usual quantity of dogs and children, living to-day on what they got yesterday, and hop- ing to have to-morrow the same as they had to- day — heavily seasoned with red pepper. SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. I9 The history of San Antonio has been an event- ful one, and runs far back into the past. While Mexico yeti belonged to Spain, the Marquis de Casa Fuerte explored and surveyed in the immedi- ate vicinity of the present city, and, on account of the exceeding richness of the soil, the temperate climate, and the ease of irrigation, recommended it to the King of Spain as a most desirable place for a settlement, and, in 1693, advised the Spanish monarch to send settlers to found a city at or near the place of his surveys. It was not, however, until 1730 that any emigrants arrived, when thirteen families, and one single man, natives of the Canary Islands, came by way of Monterey. These way- farers were of pure Castilian blood, of wealth and distinction. Their names, Rodriguez, Yturri, Garza, Navarro, Flores, and Garcia, are perpet- uated in the neighborhood of San Antonio, by existing families descended from each. They built on what is now known as the Military Plaza, and named it Plaza de las Islas, in honor of the Canary Islands, the home they had left. This settlement was called San Antonio de Bexar, in honor of the Duke of Bexar, Viceroy of Mexico at the time the town was laid off, 17 16, while the town on the east side of the venerable cathedral was known as San Fernando. SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. 2 1 San Antonio has been the scene of many bloody conflicts; the banners of freedom and oppression, each borne aloft to the battle's front by their respective champions, have mingled in sanguinary strife ; both have at times been trailed in the dust and bathed in the blood of the contestants ; out of this chaos of crimson slaughter has arisen the inspiriting device of universal freedom, and the banner of tyranny has been banished beyond the Rio Grande. A writer, in speaking of San Antonio, says: " Every stone of this beautiful city has been consecrated with the blood of a patriot, San Antonio has for a century been the battle-ground of human liberty. Its fortified places have been taken and retaken, and retaken again; while the Alamo still stands the monument of a battle greater than Thermopylae ; for, while one Greek lived to tell the story of heroic defence, not one Texan ever opened his lips to relate how his fellows died." In 1785 the Comanche Indians, who were always troublesome, gathered in numbers and attacked the town, driving the soldiers within the walls of the mission, and capturing the place. The taking of San Antonio by the Texans, 1835, is thus graphically described by Yokum : "On the morning of the 3d of December, 1835, Messrs. 22 SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. Smith, Holmes, and Maverick, who had been detained under surveillance in Bexar since the affair at Gonzales, made their escape, and reached the Texan camp. From information given by them as to the strength of the place, a call was made for volunteers to attack it at four o'clock the next morning. " The plan of assault proposed that three hundred volun- teers should be led into the town in three divisions: the first, under Col. Jack, to take and occupy the house of Jose Angel Navarro; the second, under Lieutenant Sommerville, to take and occupy the house of Antonio de la Garza ; and the third, under Major Morris, to take and occupy the house of Vera- mendi. Deaf Smith, John H. Smith, and Hendrick Arnold, were to act as guides to the respective divisions. During that day and night all was preparation and impatience for the hour to march. " A serious conference was in session in General Burleson's quarters, which closed by a proclamation that the descent on the town was postponed. The burst of disappointment and indignation can be better imagined than described. A gen- eral parade was ordered for ten o'clock on the morning of the 4th. Many of the companies refused to turn out. The causes assigned for postponing the attack, were the absence of Arnold, one of the guides, together with an opinion that the besieged had received notice of the intended assault. "About two o'clock in the afternoon of the 4th of Decem- ber, an order was issued to raise the siege, and to set out for La Bahia at seven o'clock that evening. ' It was then,' says an eye witness, * that the scene was indescribable, and serious apprehensions were entertained that our camp would be the SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. 23 theatre of blood.' But, in the meantime, Arnold, the absent guide, had returned; and Lieutenant Vuavis, of the Mexican army, who had deserted the night before, came up. The latter was conducted forthwith to headquarters, and under- went a strict examination. He stated that the garrison was in a tumult, and much dissatisfied ; and, further, that the enemy had no suspicion of the intended descent that morn- ing. He also stated that the strength of the place had been exaggerated. "On receipt of this information, late in the evening of the 4th, Colonel Benjamin R. Milam, at the suggestion of some pex-sons, cried aloud : ' PF/io will go with old Ben Milam into San Antonio ? ' The reply was a shout from the offi- cers and men then assembled around the quarters of General Burleson. They were ordered to fall into line, and, after a partial organization, Milam was promptly elected to the command, and notified the men to meet him, early after dark, at the old mill, there to complete their arrange- ments. "All this transpired in the presence of General Burleson, and with his approbation. " They met at the old mill, and formed the attacking party in two divisions : the first under the immediate com- mand of Colonel Milam, assisted by Colonel Midland Franks of the artillery, and Major R. C. Morris of the Grays, with Messrs. Maverick, Cooke, and Arnold as guides ; the second, under the command of Colonel Frank W. Johnson, assisted by Colonels James Grant and William T. Austin, with Deaf Smith and John W. Smith as guides. General Burleson was waited on, and requested to hold his position till the EXPLANATIONS. A. Old Mill. B. House of Veramendi. C. House of de la Garza. D. Main Plaza. E. Military Plaza F. Powder House, G. Reboubt H, Quinla. I. Priest's House. J. Antonio Navarro I K. Zambrano Kow. F f^artia. SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. 25 result of the attack on the town was known, which he cheer- fully agreed to do. Colonel J. C. Neill was directed to make a feint on the Alamo, to divert the enemy's attention while Milam was marching into the place. " There were three hundred and one men that made the descent, composed mostly of parts of the companies of Cap- tains York, Patton, Dickinson, English, and Ward, in the first division, under Milam, and of the companies of Cook, Breese, Peacock, Swisher, and Edwards, in the second division, under Johnson. " On the morning of the 5th of December, about twenty minutes before daylight, the assault was made on the town. " Colonel Neill, making an earlier start, had crossed the river, descended toward the Alamo, and opened a fire upon it, completely diverting the enemy's attention. This he con- tinued until he heard the report of the guns in the town, when he withdrew to the camp. The division of Milam marched in a direction a little south of west to the entrance of Aceqtiia street, so named from the ditch running on the west side ; while, at the same time, that of Johnson advanced to the entrance of Soledad street. These two streets from their entrance run south for a thousand varias to the main plaza — he first entering the square on the northwest, and the other on the northeast corner. At these points of entrance into the square the enemy had erected breastworks and batteries, so as to command them. Milam's division took possession of the house of De la Garza, and Johnson that of Veramendi, " These houses were nearly opposite, on the east side of each of the two streets, and about a hundred yards from the main square. 26 SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. " In approaching the Veramendi house a sentinel fired upon the column, which was returned with efitect by Deaf Smith. This aroused the Mexicans in the town. The fire from the town and the Alamo soon became tremendous. The Texans had taken with them two pieces of artillery, a twelve and a six pounder. The former was dismounted, and, for want of a cover for the other piece, it was but little used. " So well-directed was the enemy's fire, that, for a time, the Texans could not cover their lines, or keep up a safe communication between the two divisions. They relied, however, upon their rifles, with which they slackened the enemy's fire, and silenced the artillery within range of their pieces. During the 5th, the Texans had one killed, and two colonels, one lieutenant-colonel, and twelve privates wounded ; these were sent back to the camp, " The night of the 5th was occupied by the Texans in strengthening their works, and opening a communication be- tween the two divisions. The enemy kept up a constant fire during the night, which slackened somewhat toward day- light. They were also engaged in placing armed men on the tops of the surrounding houses, and in strengthening their defences. The Texans at length succeeded in opening a safe communication between their two divisions. This they did under a raking fire from the enemy's battery at the en- trance of Soledad street. " At daylight, on the 5th of December, the enemy were discovered to have occupied the tops of the houses between the Texans and the plaza, and to have cut loop-holes in the parapet-walls crowning the buildings. From these points they opened and kept up through the day a brisk fire of FAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. 27 small arms ; at the same time a steady fire of artillery was maintained from the town and the Alamo. The greatest danger to the Texans was in passing from one house to an- other. A detachment of Captain Crane's company, under Lieutenant William McDonald, with others, advanced under a severe fire and took possession of the house to the right and somewhat in advance of the Garza house. This extended the Texan line westward, and toward the military plaza. At the same time, the assailants were strengthening their works, and returning the fire of the enemy. They also succeeded in mounting their cannon, with which they did some execu- tion. "The communication between the two divisions of the assailants was strengthened. " During this, the second day of the attack, the Texans had five wounded. The night of the 6th was occupied by the enemy in keeping up a languishing fire, in opening a trench on the Alamo side of the river, and in strengthening their batteries on Main street, leading from the plaza to the Alamo. The Texans were engaged in strengthening their lines. " On the morning of the 7th, the enemy opened a brisk fire from the trench constructed the night before, also of ar- tillery and small arms from other positions. By eleven o'clock that day, the deadly fire of the Texan rifles had silenced that from the trench, and also from some of the Mexican artillery. The only house between the Garza house and the buildings on the plaza was about midway, but back from the street. About noon, the gallant Karnes advanced with a crowbar, under a heavy fire from the enemy, and 28 SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. forced an entrance. Captain York's company followed, and held the position. "In the evening the fire of the Mexicans became active from all their works. Colonel Milam, in passing from his position to that of Johnson at the Veramendi house, was in- stantly killed by a rifle-shot in the head. He fell just as he entered the yard, and was buried where he fell. In his death, Texas lost a commander and a soldier whose place could not be easily supplied. The Texans, however, felt a new incentive to avenge his death. They immediately set on foot a party to take possession of the house of Antonio Navarro, situated on the north side of Main street, one block west of the main plaza, but commanding a portion of the military plaza, and the Mexican redoubt on the second block west of the main square. The party consisted of portions of the companies of Captains Llewellyn, English, Crane, and York. They advanced from the house taken by Karnes, and forced an entrance. The enemy endeavored to retake it by firing through loop-holes made in the roof, but the Texans returned the fire through the same loop-holes, and drove them off. " Immediately north of and adjoining the Navarro house, fronting on Flores street, stood a row of buildings known as the ' Zambrano Row.' The taking of these buildings was part of the work of the 8th of December. The morning v/as cold and wet, and but little was done. "About nine o'clock, however, the same party who had taken the Navarro house, being reinforced by tlie Grays, commenced the attack. The row consisted of a series of rooms, separated by thick partition walls. These walls were SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. 29 pierced, and thus the Texans advanced from room to room. " The enemy disputed every inch of the ground, and kept up a tremendous fire of artillery during the day. At last, however, they were forced to abandon the row. During this time, a small reinforcement, under Lieutenant Gill, came in from the camp of General Burleson. The Mexicans, in order to produce a diversion, sent out a party of about fifty men from the Alamo toward the Texan camp, but they were quickly driven back by the fire of a six-pounder. " After dark, on the 8th, the occupants of the Zambrano row were reinforced by the companies of Captains Swisher, Alley, Edwards, and Duncan. Thus the Texans had, in fact, the command of the northwest portion of the enemy's main defences. " On the night of the 8th a further advance was made, on the north side, and opposite the centre of the main plaza, stood a strong building, known as the ' Priests' House.' It commanded the plaza, and its capture was considered the crowning work of the assault. Just before midnight, a party of about a hundred men, destined to attack this place, set out from the Garza house. In passing an out-building con- nected with the wall around the yard of the priests' house, they were exposed to a heavy fire from the Mexicans occu- pying that out-building; but by a rapid movement the assail- ants reached the wall, broke it down, drove the enemy from his position, entered the priests' house, secured and strength- ened the doors and windows, and commenced cutting loop- holes. '• The fire of the enemy had by this time become general, 30 SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. and was kept up with artillery and small arms until nearly daylight. Finding the Texans unpleasantly near them, they did not wait for daybreak to see the effect of their rifles from the loop-holes in the priests' house upon the main plaza, but retreated to the Alamo. At half past six o'clock on the morning of the 9th, General Cos sent in a flag of truce, expressing a wish to capitulate. " General Burleson, having received notice of the flag, proceeded to the town, and by two o'clock, on the morning of the LOth, the articles of capitulation were concluded. "Cos and his officers were permitted to retire with their arms and private property, upon their word of honor that they would not in any way oppose the re-establishment of the constitution of 1824; the Mexican convict soldiers were to be taken beyond the Rio Grande; all public property belonged to the victors ; such of the troops as wished to remain or leave the Mexican army, had the liberty of doing so. Commissioners were appointed to carry the articles into effect. <* It is proper to state here that during the attack, notwiih- standing General Burleson had out a constant patrol, Ugar- tachea made his way into San Antonio uith five hundred convicts, guarded by a hundred regular infantry. This force, added to the eight hundred previously there, made an ag- gregate of fourteen hundred. The number of the enemy killed has been variously estimated — it probably did not ex- ceed a hundred and fifty. The Texan loss was trifling, though they had several wounded. " Among the occurrences of the assault, it may be stated that on the same evening of the death of Milam, the officers SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. 3 1 assembled and conferred the command on Colonel Frank W. Johnson, who had the high honor of raising the flag of victory over the walls of Bexar. " The reinforcement of convicts brought in by Ugartachea were conducted in chains, and their fetters were only taken off when they were introduced within the lines. Such men added nothing to the Mexican strength, but served only to hasten the consumption of the scanty provisions of the be- seiged. " After the occupation of the priests' house by the Texans, the town was fairly in their possession. They were in a position, as soon as daylight appeared, to clear every battery on the plaza. The terms of the capitulation were, then, hu- mane. It is true the enemy could have held out for some time in the Alamo, but they had no provisions. The Texans agreed to furnish them with a supply at a fair price, and their sick and wounded were permitted to remain behind, and were duly cared for. Thus the humanity following the victory was more glorious than the victory itself, and was a noble lesson of moderation in the hour of triumph, which the enemy failed to learn. Twenty-one pieces of artillery, five hundred muskets, together with ammunition, clothing, etc., fell into the hands of the victors. " On the 14th, General Cos left the town with eleven hun- dred and five troops, the remainder having abandoned his flag. He encamped that night at the mission of San Jose. " The next day he set out for the Rio Grande, to report to Santa Anna, his distinguished relative and superior, the re- bellious character of the Texans, and their obstinacy in battle. •' General Burleson, who, although opposed to the attack 32 SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. when it was begun, did all he could to contribute to its suc- cess, on the 15th retired to his home, leaving Colonel John- son in command of the Alamo, with a sufficient force to maintain it. The remainder of the army dispersed. Thus was Texas again free from the footsteps of the enemy." The following is from the Pittsburgh Gazette : " To Colonel Benjamin R. Milam belongs, as commander, the deathless renown of that heroic exploit. For six succes- sive nights did he unceasingly grapple with the enemy; his own life was the price of his triumph, and he was destined, like Wolfe and Pike, to sleep the sleep of death in the arms of victory. As long as unimpeached integrity, uncompro- mising patriotism, and undaunted valor, are esteemed among mankind, so long will his name be fresh and sacred in the memory of every friend of virtue and freedom." " Oft shall the soldier think of thee, Thou dauntless leader of the brave, Who on the heights of tyranny Won freedom, and a glorious grave. And on thy tomb shall pilgrims we-ep, And pray to heaven in murmurs low, That peaceful be the hero's sleep Who conquered San Antonio. Enshrined on honor's deathless scroll, A nation's thanks will tell thy fame ; Long as the beauteous rivers roll. Shall freedom's votaries hymn thy name. For, bravest of the Texan clime. Who fought to make her children free, SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. ^^ Was Milam ! and his death sublime Linked with undying liberty." General Vasquez, early in 1842, marched to- ward San Antonio, which he took without opposi- tion and the American residents abandoned the town. Vasquez remained but two days, when he retreated toward the Rio Grande. In Septeiiiber of the same year Gen. Woll, with another Mexican army, took possession of the town. At that time the District Court was in session, and the American inhabitants, the Judge of the Court, and the lawyers in attendance, were taken prisoners of war. In a short time, however, the citizens rallied, sallied out to attack the en- emy, and defeated him at the Salado, a few miles from the town CHAPTER II. THE ALAMO. (^^^^^N 18^6 took place the memorable battle ^^M of the Alamo, where a few brave Texans 1^^ were opposed to a large army of Mexi- ^5^ ' cans ; crushed by superior force, were slaughtered, and their bodies mutilated and burned by order of the vindictive Santa Anna. Although the story of the Alamo belongs as much to that of San Antonio as to that of the Old Missions, and equally to both, yet, it stands out so boldly, with a history of its own, that we shall give it apart from its surroundings. The church and fortress of the Alamo faces the Alamo plaza, and stands there a monument of past faith and heroic courage. It was the second mission in Texas, and was founded in 1703, by Franciscans of the Apostolic College of Queretaro, in the valley of the Rio Grande, under the invocation of San Francisco (36) SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. 37 Solano. It remained there five years, when, for some reason not explained fully, it was removed to San Ildephonso, where it remained until 1710. It was then removed back to its former position and re-invocated as the mission of San Jose, where it rested, under the guidance of Father Jose de Soto, until 1 7 18, when, on account of scarcity of water, it was taken, by order of the Marquis de Valero, Viceroy of New Spain, in honor of whom it was partly named, to the west bank of the San Pedro, about three-fourths of a mile from the present parish church of San Antonio. Here it assumed the name of San Antonio de Bexar, under the pro- tection of which post it remained until 1722. In May, 1744, the first stone of the walls of the Alamo was laid, but the structure was never en- tirely finished, and it was called and conducted as the mission of San Antonio de Valero, where a company of troops were stationed, for the protec- tion of the town and church, until 1783, when it ceased to be a missionary station. The Indians brought in for conversion having been, for some time previously, sent to the lower missions, it lost its ancient prestige and became an humble parish church, where worship was conducted until about 1825. It was an oblong structure, enclosing about 38 SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. an acre of ground, Mdthin which was the church and convent. It was surrounded by a wall three feet thick and ten feet high. The Bishop of Mon^ terey, in January, 1793, directed that the church records of the mission be put in custody of the curate of San Antonio de Bexar, which was done the following August by Father Lopez, the last of the followers of St. Francis, who had labored as missionary in the Alamo. January, 1836, Santa Anna, the Dictator of Mex- ico, equipped an anny of 7,500 men, and, deter- mining to crush out the Texas rebellion, took the command in person and marched to San Antonio. The whole force of the patriots, at this place, was commanded by Colonel William B. Travis, and did not exceed 170 men. This little band of Texans, on the arrival of Santa Anna with his army, retreated within the sacred walls of the Alamo, where they prepared to sustain a siege. The entire Mexican army immediately sur- rounded the garrison, which they summoned to surrender. On their refusal, a furious bombard- ment was at once begun, and, almost without intermission, continued from the 25th of February until the 8th of March. On the 24th of February Colonel Travis issued the following stirring appeal, i SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. 39 which he sent, by a trusted messenger, through the Mexican lines: " COMMANDANCY OF THE AlaMO, ) Bexar, Feb. 24, 1836, / " 71? t/ie People of Texas and all Americatis in the World — Fellow Citizens and Compatriots : I am besieged by a thousand or more Mexicans, under Santa Anna. I have sustained a continual bombardment and cannonade for twenty- four hours, and have not yet lost a man. " The enemy have demanded a surrender at discretion, otherwise the garrison is to be put to the sword if the fort is taken. I have answered the summons with a cannon- shot, and our flag still waves proudly from the walls. 7 shall never surrender or retreat. Then I call upon you, in the name of liberty, patriotism, and everything dear to the American character, to come to our aid with dispatch. "The enemy are receiving reinforcements daily, and will doubtless, in a few days, increase to three or four thou- sand. "Though this call may be neglected, I am determined to sustain myself as long as possible, and die like a soldier who never forgets what is due to his own honor and that of his country. Victory or death. " W. Barrett Travis, ^'Lieutenant Colonel Commanding. " P. S. — The Lord is on our side. When the enemy appeared in sight, we had not three bushels of corn. We have since found, in deserted houses, eighty or ninety bushels, and got into the walls twenty or thirty head of beeves." 40 SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. Santa Anna called a council of his officers on the morning of the 6th of March, at which he declared that the Alamo must be taken at once, and at whatever cost. The particulars of that terrible struggle can never be known. More than 1.500 Mexicans were killed and wounded — nearly ten to every one of the Texans. The brave defenders of the Alamo were vanquished ; the little band of 170 patriots was overpowered by the large army of merciless Mexicans opposed to them ; every one of the defenders of the ''Lone Star" was cruelly butchered. The taking of the Alamo by the Mexicans : " It will be remembered that Santa Anna reached the Alazan at noon on the 23d of February ; and Urrea arrived at San Patrico before the dawn of the morning of the 27th. " At two o'clock in the afternoon, Santa Anna marched into San Antonio. " The Texan guard in the town retired in good order to the Alamo. Colonel Travis, in anticipation of an attack, had done what he could to strengthen the walls, and provide means for defence. The Alamo, though strong, was built for a mission and not for a fortress ; the walls are thick, but of plain stone work, and without a redoubt or bastion to command the lines of the fort. The main wall is a rect- angle, one hundred and ninety feet long, and one hundred SAN AXTONIO AND ENVIRONS. 4 1 and twenty-two feet wide. On the southeast corner was attached the old church, a large building, and contained the magazine and soldiers' quarters. Adjoining this on the east side was the stone cuartel for horses. About midway of the east side of the main wall, but within it, was a two- story stone building; the upper story being used for a hos- pital, and the lower one for an armory, soldiers' quarters, and other purposes. " There were four pieces of artillery mounted on the side toward the town, and a like number facing the north; two on the side of the church, and four to defend the gate which looked toward the bridge across the San Antonio river. ^ " The place was supplied with water from two aqueducts running on either side of the walls. But Travis was greatly deficient in men, provisions, and ammunition. "Santa Anna immediately demanded a surrender of the Alamo and its defenders, without terms. The demand was answered by a shot from the fort. The enemy then hoisted a blood-red flag in the town, and commenced an attack. It was intended to be by slow approaches, for at first the bom- bardment was harmless. "Early on the 25th, Santa Anna in person crossed the nver with the battalion de Cazadores of Matamoras, with a view of erecting a battery in front of the gate of the Alamo. "Travis made a strong resistance, and the Mexicans were re-inforced by the battalion of Ximenes. The enemy, accord- ing to their own account, lost in this action, which continued until the afternoon, eiHit in killed and wounded. 42 SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. " They, however, succeeded that night in erecting their battery, being protected by some old houses between the gate of the Alamo and the bridge. It was three hundred yards south of the place. They also erected another, the same night, near the powder-house, or Gaj-ila, a thousand yards to the northeast, and posted their cavalry at the old Casa Mata on the Gonzales road, toward the east. At night, Travis burnt the straw, and wooden houses in the vicinity of the fort. " Early on the morning of the 26th, there was a slight skirmish between a portion of the Texans and the enemy's cavalry stationed east of the fort. A norther having sprung up on the previous night, the thermometer fell to thirty-nine degrees above zero. Meanwhile, Santa Anna had received reinforcements, and now enlarged his guard, the sentinels being placed nearer the fort. The Texans sallied out for wood and water, without loss ; and at night they succeeded in burning some old houses northeast from the fort, and near a battery erected by the enemy on the Alamo ditch, about eight hundred yards distant. " During all this time the Mexicans kept up a constant firing, but with little effect. On the 28th, they erected an- other battery at the old mill, eight hundred yards distant, and attempted to cut off the water from the fort. The Texans were engaged in strengthening their works, by throw- ing up earth on the inside of the walls. " It i? proper here to state that Travis wrote on the 23d to Colonel Fannin, then at Goliad, making known his position, and requesting him to march to his relief. The letter reached Goliad on the 25th. Fannin set out on his march SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. 43 for Bexar on the 28th, with three hundred men and four pieces of artillery, leaving Captain Westover in command at Goliad, with about a hundred men. But he had only pro- ceeded two hundred yards, when one of his wagons broke down, and, having but one yoke of oxen to each piece of ar- tillery, he was compelled to double his teams in order to get them, one at a time, across the river. Besides, his only pror visions consisted of a tierce of rice and a little dried beef. " A council of war was thereupon held, when it was deter- mined to return to Goliad, which was accordingly done. " The intelligence of Fannin's departure for Bexar was re- ceived by the enemy at the latter place the same day on which he started, and, before the council of war above al- luded to was closed on the 29th, General Sesma, with de- tachments of cavalry and infantry, was on his march to meet him. "On the morning of the 1st of March, thirty-two gallant men from Gonzales were safely conducted by Captain John W. Smith into the Alamo, making the effective force under Travis one hundred and eighty-eight men. The bombardment of the fort still continued. The Texans, being short of ammuni- tion, fired but seldom. In the evening, however, they struck the house occupied by Santa Anna in Bexar with a twelve- pound shot. " On the 2d the attack was still maintained. The Texans continued the fight as their means and strength would allow. " On the 3d, the enemy erected a battery on the north of the fort, and within musket- shot. " Travis added a last appeal to the President of the Con- vention, setting forth fully his position and determination. \ 44 SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. " He stated that the 'blood-red banners which waved on the church at Bexar, and in the camp above him, were tokens that the war was one of vengeance against rebels.' " Perhaps by the same courier he sent the affecting note to his friend in Washington county — ' Take care of my little boy. If the country shall be saved, I may make him a splendid fortune ; but if the country should be lost, and I should perish, he will have nothing but the proud recollec- tion that he is the son of a man who died for his country.' " In a letter dated the 3d of March, to a friend, he said : • I am still here, in fine spirits, and well to do. With one hundred and forty-five men, I have held this place ten days against a force variously estimated from fifteen hundred to six thousand; and I shall continue to hold it till I get relief from my countrymen, or I will perish in its defence. We have had a shower of bombs and cannon-balls continnually falling among us the whole time, yet none of us have fallen. We have been miraculously preserved.' " "On that day, J. B. Bonham, who had gone as express to Fannin for aid, returned and made his way safely into the fort at eleven o'clock in the morning. At night the Texans made a sally, and had a skirmish with the Mexican advance. The enemy continued the fire on the 4th ; but few shots were returned from the fort. ''In the afternoon Santa Anna called a council of war, to advise on the question of assaulting the place. After much discussion, Cos, Castrillon, SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. 45 and others, were of opinion that the Alamo should be assaulted after the arrival of the two twelve- pounders expected on the 7th. The President, Generals Ramnez, Sesma, and Almonte, were of opinion that the twelve-pounders should not be waited for, but the assault made. *' Santa Anna, without making a public decision, determined upon an assault, and made his prepa- rations accordingly. His troops then in Bexar exceeded four thousand in number, the most of whom had been refreshed during the time they had spent there. The Texans, on the contrary, were worn down by incessant watching and labor within the walls. *'0n Sunday morning, the 5th of March, a little after midnight, the Alamo was surrounded by the entire Mexican army. The cavalry were placed without the infantry, to cut them down if they offered to give way. The latter were provided with scaling-ladders. The enemy, thus forming a circle facing the fort, advanced rapidly under a tremendous fire from the Texan rifles and artillery. ''Just at daylight the ladders were placed against the walls, and an attempt made by the enemy to enter the fort, but they were driven back by the stern defenders within. Again the charge was 46 SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. sounded, and a second effort made to reach the top of the walls, but again the assailants were repulsed. *' For a few minutes there was a pause. By the presence, threats and promises of Santa Anna, a third assault was made, and with more fatal suc- cess. The enemy, reaching the tops of the ladders, wavered and fell ; but their places were supplied by the hundreds pressing onward and behind them on each ladder. "At length, killed, cut down, and exhausted, the Texan defenders did not retreat, but ceased to keep back the Mexicans. Instantly the fort was filled by the latter. The survivors within the Svalls still continued to do battle. They clubbed their guns, and used them till they were nearly all cut down. It is said that a few called for quarter, but the cry was unheeded. One would suppose that admiration for such unequaled heroism would have saved these few. Travis and Crockett fell — the former near the western wall, the latter in the corner near the church — with piles of slain around them. *' It had been previously agreed on by the be- sieged that the survivor should fire a large quantity of damaged powder in the magazine Major SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. 47 Evans, the master of ordnance, was shot as he attempted to perform that last high duty to his country. Colonel Bowie, who had been for some days sick in his bed, was there butchered and mutilated." Thus fell the Alamo and its heroic defenders ; but before them lay the bodies of five hundred and twenty-one of the enemy, with a like number wounded. "At an hour by sun, on that Sabbath morning, all was still : yet the crimson waters of the aqueduct around the fort i-esembled the red flag on the church of Bexar ! The defenders of Texas did not retreat, but lay there in obedience to the command of their country; and in that obedience the world has witnessed among men no greater moral sublimity. * Those in the fort that survived were : Mrs. Dickerson, wife of Lieutenant Dickerson, who fell in the defense, her child, a negro servant of Colonel Travis, and two Mexican women of Bexar. The bodies of the Texans, after being stripped and subjected to brutal indignities, were thrown into heaps and burnt. The most of them were American colonists, who emigrated to Texas under the assurance of the colonization laws, that their rights and liberties should be protected. The Mexicans in Bexar were mostly hostile ; only three of them were among the defenders of the Alamo." The following account of the fall of the Alamo is from the Sa7i Felipe Telegraph of March 24th, 1836: 48 SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. '• At daybreak of the 6th inst. the enemy surrounded the fort with their infantry, with the cavahy forming a circle outside to prevent an escape of the garrison; the number consisted of at least 4000 against 140. General Santa Anna commanded in person, assisted by four generals and a formidable train of artillery. Our men had been previously much fatigued and harassed by night watching and inces- sant toils, having experienced for some days past, a heavy bombardment and several real and feigned attacks. " But American valor and American love of liberty dis- played themselves to the last ; they were never more con- spicuous ; twice did they receive a check ; for our men were determined to verify the words of the immortal Travis, ' to make the victory worse to the enemy than a defeat.' "A pause ensued after the second attack, which was renewed the third time, owing to the exertions of Santa Anna and his officers ; they then poured in over the walls * like sheep'; the struggle, however, did not even there cease ; unable from the crowd and for want of time to load their guns and rifles, our men made use of the butt-ends of the latter, and continued to fight and to resist until life ebbed out through their numberless wounds, and the enemy had conquered the fort, but not its brave, its matchless defenders ; they perished but they yielded not ; only one, Warner, remained to ask for quarter, which was denied by the unre- lenting enemy. Total extermination succeeded, and the darkness of death occupied the memorable Alamo, but recently so teeming with gallant spirits, and filled with deeds of never-failing remembrance. " We envy not the feelings of the victors, for they must SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. 49 have been bitter and galling, not proud ones. Who would not be rather one of the Alamo heroes, than of the living of its merciless victors ? Spirits of the mighty, though fallen, honors and rest are with you ; the spark of immortality which animated your forms shall brighten into a flame, and Texas, the whole world, shall hail ye like demi-gods of old, as founders of new actions, and as patterns for imitation. " We must not omit to mention here the solemn ceremony of collecting and devoting to funeral honors the ashes of the heroes of the Alamo. It was performed on the 25th of February by Colonel Sequin and his command, under orders from the general-in-chief of the army. The dead had been burnt in three piles. The ashes were collected and placed in a neat black coffin, on the inside of the lid of which were engraved the names of Travis, Bowie, Crockett ; a solemn procession was formed, and the remains borne to the place of interment, where, after suitable orations, they were buried with military honors." After the fall of the Alamo, Gen. Houston thus addressed the patriots : ^* Fellow Soldiers: The only army in Texas is now present. Travis has fallen with his men at the Alamo. " Fannin's troops have been massacred at La Bahia. " There are none to aid us. There is here but a small force, and yet it is all that Texas has. We might cross the river and attack the enemy. We might be victorious ; but we might be overcome. There are but few of us, and if we fall, the fate of Texas is sealed. For this reason, and until I feel able to meet the enemy in battle, I shall retreat." 4 Jo SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. " San Antonio ! My country, the hour Of your promising splendor has past, And the chains, which were spurned in your moments of power, Hang heavily on you at last." HYMN OF THE ALAMO, BY COL. R. M. PORTER, FIRST SECRE- TARY OF THE NAVY OF THE REPUBLIC OF TEXAS. I. " Arise ! man the wall — our clarion blast Now sounds its final reveille — This dawning morn must be the last Our fated band shall ever see. To life, but not to hope, farewell. Yon trumpet's clang and cannon's peal. And storming shout and clash of steel, Is ours — but not our cotint-ys knell. Welcome the Spartan's death ! 'Tis no despairing strife ; We fall — we die — but our expiring breath Is Freedom's breath of life Here on this new Thermopylae, Our monument shall tower on high. And Alamo hereafter be On bloodier fields the battle-cry ;" Thus Travis from the rampart cried ; And when his warriors saw the foe Like whelmine billows move below. SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. At once each dauntless heart replied, " Welcome the Spartan's death ! 'Tis no despairing strife ; We fall, but our expiring breath Is Freedom's breath of life." III. They come — like autumn leaves they fall ; Yet hordes on hordes they onward rush ; With gory tramp they mount the wall, Till numbers the defenders crush. The last was felled the fight to gain — Well may the ruffians quake to tell How Travis and his hundred fell, Amid a thousand foemen slain. They died the Spartan's death, But not in hopeless strife ; Like brothers died — and their expiring breath Was Freedom's breath of life. 51 52 SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. MONUMENT ERECTED TO THE HEROES OF THE ALAMO. STANDING AT THE ENTRANCE OF THE STATE HOUSE AT AUSTIN. The following are the inscriptions on the four sides : TO THE GOD OF THE FEARLESS AND TRUE IS DEDICATED THIS ALTAR, MADE FROM THE RUINS OF THE ALAMO. BLOOD OF HEROES HATH STAINED ME. LET THE STONES OF THE ALAMO SPEAK, THAT THEIR IMMOLATION BE NOT FORGOTTEN. MARCH 6tH, 1836, A. D. MARCH 6th, 1836, A. D. CROCKETT. BONHAM. SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. 53 BE THEY ENROLLED WITH LEONIDAS IN THE HOST OF THE MIGHTY DEAD. THERMOPYL^ HAD HER MESSENGER OF DEFEAT, BUT THE ALAMO HAD NONE. MARCH 6tH, 1836, A. D. MARCH 6th, 1836, A. D. TRAVIS. BOWIE. 56 SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. DESCRIPTION OF THE MONUMENT STANDING IN FRONT OF THE CAPITAL AT AUSTIN. "This monument is ten feet high, and made from stones taken from the ruins of the Alamo. The style of architecture is the composite, and is divided into ten sections. The first section, or base of the monument, is one solid piece, bearing the whole structure. The second section is a square plinth, neatly impaneled. The third section is a sub-plinth, with Gothic molding and roped head, symbolical of binding the whole structure firmly. "The 4th section is the die, or main body of the monument, consisting of four panels in recess, supported by rude fluted pilasters at each corner. On two of these panels are raised shields, on which are inscribed, in carved letters, the names of every man who fell at the ever-memorable battle of Alamo. Each shield is suspended from a taste- ful wreath, in the centre of which is a beautiful bouquet of flowers. The shields and wreaths sustaining them are encircled by honeysuckle and vines. On the other panels of section four is rep- resented the skull and bones crossed. Above the skull are two angels facing each other, blowing SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. 57 trumpets. Below the cross-bones are the symbols of time — the hour-glass, scythe, and wings. " Section five is a solid cap resting on the main body, projecting with Gothic moldings hand- somely carved, representing oak leaves at the corners. On the top of the cap is a square facia forming recesses in which are inscribed, in large, raised Gothic letters, the names of the gallant spirits who fell at the head of the heroes of the Alamo. Each name — that of Crockett, Bonham, Travis, and Bowie — stands out singly in bold relief, on each of the four fronts. From the centre of this cap springs the main shaft or spire and upper structure. ''Section six is a Corinthian base, forming four square angles. At each angle is a dolphin, in solid carved work. On each side, in the centre, is a bomb-shell of full size, and made of solid stone. ''Section seven is the base of the shaft, with raised fluted corners, and rests upon the Corinth- ian base, supported at the corners by the tails of the dolphins, and at each side by the bomb- shells. "In the panels on the base and over the bomb- shells, are raised hands in the grasp of friendship. 58 SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. '* Section eight is the first division of the shaft, with raised fluted corners and panels in recess. ''At the base of each panel are cannons crossed in bold relief. Above these cannon, on each panel, is the Cap of Liberty, surrounded by branches of oak and laurel. Immediately above these, in raised letters, is inscribed, on each of the four fronts, March 6th, 1836, the date of the memor- able battle. On the top of this section of the shaft is a cap, with raised fluted corners and recess panels. In two of these panels stand in relief the heads of angels with wings. On one of the other panels is, in relief, a heart pierced with two crossed daggers, and on the other panel is a skull with twigs crossed underneath. ''Section nine is the second division of the shaft, with the devices in raised Gothic letters, as printed on each side of the wood-cut of the monument above. " Section ten is a cap on top of section nine, forming four Gothic points, and in each, in a recess panel, stands in bold relief. The Lone Star OF Texas. Underneath the stars are raised dag- gers. In the centre of the cap above the stars stands an urn with flame issuing from it, and at each corner of the cap on which the large urn SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. 59 rests, are four smaller urns, out of which also issues flame. "This monument was made in the Republic of Texas, by American artists. Viewing the work as a whole, both as to boldness and appropriateness of design and beauty of execution, it would reflect credit on any artist of ancient or modern times." The following names, of persons who were slaughtered at the Alamo, are inscribed upon the north and south fronts : M. Autrey, R. Allen, M. Andress, Ayres, Anderson, W. Blazeby, J. B. Bowman, Baker, S. C. Blair, Blair, Brown, Bowin, Balentine, J. J. Baugh, Burn el I, Butler, J. Baker, Burns, Bailey, J. Beard, Bailess, Bourn, R. Cunningham, J. Clark, J. Cane, Cloud, S. Crawford, Cary, W. Cummins, R. Crossan, Cockran, G W. Cottle, 6o SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. J. Dust, J. Dillard, A. Dickinson, C. Despalier, L. Davell, J. C. Day, J. Dickens, Devault, W. Dearduff, J. Ewing, T. R. Evans, D. Floyd, J. Flanders, W. Fishbaugh, Forsyth, G. Fuga, J. C. Goodrich. J. George, J. Gaston, J. C. Garrett, C. Grimes, Gwyn, J. E. Garwin, Gillmore, Hutchason, S. Holloway, Harrison, Hieskell, J. Hayes, Horrell, Harris, Hawkins, J. Holland, W. Hersie, Ingram, John, J. Jones, L. Johnson, C. B. Jamison, W. Johnson, T. Jackson, D. Jackson, Jackson, G. Kemble, A. Kent, W. King, Kenny, J. Kenney, Lewis, W. Linn, Wm. Lightfoot, J. Lonly, SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. 6i Lanio, W. Lightfoot, G. W. Lynn, Lewis, W. Mills, Micheson, E. T. Mitchell, E. Melton, M'Gregor, T. Miller, J. McCoy, E. Morton, R. Mussulman, Millsop, R. B. Moore, W. Marshall, Moore, R. McKenny, McCafferty, J. McGee, G. W. Main, M. Querry, G. Nelson, Nelson, J. Noland, Nelson, Wm. G. Nelson, C. Ostiner, Pelone, C. Parker, N. Pollard, G. Paggan, S. Robinson, Reddenson, N. Rough, Rusk, Robbins, W. Smith, Sears, C. Smith, Stockton, Stewart, A. Smith, J. C. Smith, Sewall, A. Smith, Simpson, R. Star, Starn, N. Sutherland, W. Summers, J. Summerline, 62 SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. Thompson, Tomlinson, E. Taylor, ■\ G. Taylor, V brothers. J. Taylor, ) W. Taylor, Thornton, Thomas, J. M. Thruston, Valentine, Williamson, D. Wilson, Walsh, Washington, W. Wells, C. Wright, R. White, J. Washington, T. Waters, War nail, J. White, D. Wilson, J. Wilson, L. J. Wilson, Warner, A. Wolf. CHAPTER III. THE OLD MISSIOI^S. Stern impress of time, thy implacable sway Extends over all that I see; The great and the mighty must yield to decay, All nature is subject to thee ; But as I look back on the years that have fled, Since those missions first rose from the sand. As I sigh o'er the moss-covered tomb of the dead, I can trace out a merciful hand.'" •^^ HE adventurous Spanish soldier, after having gained Texas for conquest and spoil only, abandoned it to the crown, and the King ceded it to the Church, which became the trustee, as it were, for the Indian. Following in the tracks of the conqueror, the Spaniards, under the auspices of the Church, late in the seventeenth century, and early in the eigh- teenth, between the years 1690 and 1720, founded many missions in Mexico, Texas and California. (64) SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. 65 Among the number, and which were probably the first Spanish grants in Texas, were the mis- sions of Alamo, Concepcione, San Jose, San Juan, Espada, and Goliad, or La Bahia, all in the vicinity of San Antonio. These missions were the work of those brave Franciscan monks, Cliristian messengers, who en- tered an unknown wilderness, peopled with savage tribes and wild animals, to plant the cross — the emblem of peace and good will — and to conquer with it a new domain for the aggrandizement of the Church and State. They raised lofty temples in praise of religion, and brought bowing to their altars the heathen tribes surrounding them. The structures they erected are now, after the lapse of more than a century, but the crumbling ruins of an eventful past — massive architectural wonders, abandoned to the wilderness from which they sprang — and they stand there now but dumb witnesses of by-gone times, when the solitude was first startled by the strained voices of the con- queror and conquered, mingled with sounds of war and the more peaceful sound of the tools of the busy workmen, as they shaped and reared stone upon stone into these holy edifices. One after another, by the ravages of war, discordant opinion. 66 SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. and the passage of time, the missions have lapsed into ahnost pre-existing isolation ; the desert has gathered about them again, and a few devout Mexican families only remain as the relic of all their pristine grandeur, moral influence, and hos- pitality. These missions were half military, half ecclesi- astical — a Church to teach the story of the Cross, and a fort to maintain and protect it from the very beings whom it was sought to bring to its foot. The natives were called by the missionaries Los Indios, and were divided into two classes : the con- verted ones were Los Indies Rcducidos, and the un- converted Los Indios Bdrbaros, They were formed around the missions into communities, having governors chosen from the converted Indians, to whom were assigned various duties — as to see that the laws, ecclesiastical, moral, and sanitary, were complied with ; to take care of the church or chapel, and to report those who did not attend regularly to their religious duties. The children were taught to speak, read and sing in Spanish. The manner of taking possession of mission land is thus described : " The Captain of the Presidio of San Antonio, Jan, i?, 1 731, decreed the establishment of the missions named. SAN ANTOxN'lO AND ENVIRONS. 67 "All these formalities being attended to, and the acts of each party being written down, and attested by assisting witnesses, ihe Captain of San Antonio proceeded, 5lh March, 1731, to the first mission ground, called, 'Our Lady of the Concepcion de Acuna,' accompanied by several of the officers of the presidios, and Father Bergera, and seized the land of the captain of the tribe, in the name of all the other Indians who had attached themselves to said mission, and led him about over the locality, and caused him to pull up weeds, throw stones, and perform all the other acts of real possession, that by virtue thereof they might not be dispos- sessed without first being iieard and defended by Father Bergera, president of the Texas Missions, or such other of the clergy as might have administration over them. *' After declaring the bounds of the mission, there were at- tached to it pasture lands, watering places, irrigating privi- leges, uses, and services, and the further right, in planting time, to drive their stock out West for pasture, so as not to prejudice the crops. The act of possession concluded by notifying the Indians, through an interpreter, what they should do in advancement of Christian doctrine, and in avoidance of crime, the same formality being observed iu each case." By reading the above carefully, it will be ob- served that the title to the land was assumed to be in the King of Spain, and was transferred to the Indians, and not to the priests, whose vows would not permit them to own any worldly estate. Whildin, in his Western Texas y says : SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. 69 " The Mexican clergy were missionaries of tlie order of St. Francis, known as Franciscan friars. Tiiey were ani- mated -with great zeal, and occasionally returned to Spain to recruit their ranks. Their custom was to visit the convents of the Order, lay before the young men of the fraternity the claims of America, and ask for volunteers to carry the Cross into the New World. On one of these occasional visits, they found a young man who impatiently volunteered the moment he was asked. He was overflowing with fervor and determination. The missionaries inquired of the Superior of the convent what sort of a man he was. ' Oh,' was the reply, ' you will have in him another Paul ; he will be a second Ignatius.' And so it proved." Father Antonio Morgil, whose name, so far as the writer knows, is here printed for the first time for American information, had been reared in pov- erty. Educated by the Church, he was a student of wonderful attainments. He was deeply versed in scholastic lore, and in the elegant arts of life. His mind was thoroughly cultured, and beneath his coarse frock there beat a heart overflowing with love for his fellows. His parents, knowing that he had a brilliant future in the Church of Spain, and that if he went to America they should see him no more, endeavored to persuade him to abandon the proposed work. But he was not the man to lay down the Cross having once lifted it. 70 SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. He went to Mexico. There his zeal and talents soon gave him high place in the order. In 1715 he began the mission work of Texas. How many posts he established is not known, but there are still the ruins of five to be seen in the vicinity of San Antonio. They were all founded about the year 1720, and are now objects of general interest and wonder. That of Alamo was the first of these. The name in its religious signification was San Antonio de Valero. The word Alamo signifies cotton- wood. The Mission buildings were, of course, erected subsequent to tlie first establishment of the Mis- sion. The Reverend P'ather Johnson, who courteously permitted me to make an examination of the original records of the Missions, now in the archives of the Cathedral of San Fernando, states that the Alamo Mission was originally established on the Rio Grande in 1703, but was removed to its present location in 17 18 by the Reverend San Buenstchad y Obsofis, a Franciscan friar. The corner-stone of the building now standing was laid May 8, 1745. The description of this build- ing, given with the details of the battle, render SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. 7 I further account unnecessary here. In fact the sword has so nearly absorbed the memory of the Cross, that the Alamo is seldom spoken of as a Mission. The second Mission, therefore, properly becomes in our narrative THE FIRST MISSION. The foundation of this was laid in 1731, and until its abandonment was the seat of hospitality and refuge, for the savage, the warrior, and the wanderer. It was first located on the St. Mark river; but there being a scarcity of water at that place, the Viceroy of Mexico, Casa Fuerte, com- missioned the Governor of Texas to make a new- location. After some search they selected three sites: two on tlie San Antonio River, and one on the Me- dina. The Viceroy submitted the report to Ribera, former inspector oi \\\^ presidios of New Spain, for his opinion, who replied, on the 22d of Septem- ber, 1730, concurring in the report of the commis- sion, except in ''regard to the location for tiie lower mission on the Medina, at twenty leagues distance from the presidios San Antonio and La Bahia, where it may be liable to «attack from the Apaches, who on many occasions appear in a 72 SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. hostile nianner in that territory — which danger would not exist if the said mission were located in the same vicinity of the other two." A battle between a band of Texans and a body of Mexicans was fought at this mission, of which the following is an account : "On the 27th of October, 1835, a detachment of Texans, under command of Captains Fannin and Bowie, ninety-two men, were encamped on the San Antonio River, on a beauti- ful spot near the old mission of Concepcione. On the morn- ing of the 28th the Texans found themselves surrounded by a large body of Mexicans, four hundred and fifty, who had planted a battery of artillery on a neighboring hill. "A fire was opened on the little band, under the protection of which the Mexican cavalry made a furious charge. " The rifles of the Texans poured a deadly fire upon the advancing enemy, who fled This attack was repeated three times with the same result, when the order was given to charge the cannon. Then the handful of brave Texans dashed up the hill, captured the field-pieces, and turned them upon the routed foe." Whildin observes : " This was called La Purissima Concepcio7ie de Aciaia, and was located two miles below the city. It is, as are the others, of an architectural style peculiarly their own. " It might not be inaptly named Christianized Moorish. " The front is a square, flanked on either side by a dome- covered belfry. The principal door is surmounted by a triangular facade, all of which is deserving of deep and 74 SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. careful study. The whole outside of the building is covered with a coat of cement or mastic, which was painted in various geometrical forms, somewhat after the fashion of tiles. One tower contained a room in which the sacred vestments and articles not in daily use were kept. The other was the baptistery, which also had an altar. "The walls of this last are painted with various emblems, among which the cord of the Franciscans, a serpent, and the seven dolors, or sorrows, which pierced the ^icart of the Virgin Mother, are conspicuous. The entrance to the church is between the towers and through a vestibule. The audi- torium is not large, but is lighted by a dome which, though less massive, is far more beautiful in its proportions than that of the Capitol at Washington. " The church is open for occasional service, and the altar is furnished with the gaudy decorations of a barbaric Chris- tianity. Here the humble Mexicans assemble when their good priest comes around, and strive to be as good as is with- in their capacity. The cells of the monks furnish an abode for, perhaps, the most untidy German family in Texas. " If the stalwart matron dwelling there ever knew or ex- perienced the luxury of a bath, it must have been in very early childhood. Through her apartments the sight-seer may pass, ascend to the roof by a ladder, and view, not only its singular construction, but also a landscape of surpass- ing beauty. Beneath the eye are the broad leagues where thousands of Christian Indians once industriously tilled their fields, and where the brave missionaries of the Church raised the Cross and buried the tomahawk. These fields, now abandoned to wild growth, were then rich with crops. " Their aqueducts and irrigating canals still remain, ex- SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. 75 amples of patient industry and frugal toil. At a distance, the blue hills rise heavenward in all their misty grandeur, while at one's feet the river gurgles over its stony bed iu a murmur of praise to the author of all beauty. At all the Missions there were large stone inclosures, like that of Alamo, in which thousands of Christian Indians could as- semble for their solemn festivals, or find shelter from a sud- den attack of hostile tribes. Attached to them were also usually stations for troops, which protected the country around, and purchased supplies from the surplus of the Church. All the Missions were under the supervision of Father Morgill, who visited each in its turn and directed its general administration. " Some of the most bloody fights of the Texan Revolution were fought at the Mission de la Concepcione. One of the most brilliant victories that the army achieved was gained on this very ground. THE MISSION OF SAN JOSE. This was founded about 1720, by Father Mor- gill, and had collegiate and scholastic institutions attached to it. The lands were claimed by Don Domingo Cas- telo, one of the King's ensigns, for his services at the Presidio de San Saba ; but, after a protracted lawsuit between himself and the Mission, the title was vested in the Indians of the Mission, on the 1 8th of November, 1776, by purchase for one hun- dred and fifty dollars. 76 SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. Whildin, in describing it, says : " It is on the west side of the river and four miles from the city. It was the grandest of them all, and its ruins still tell of the arts and attainments of the heroic missionaries. " So far as these afford an indication, its appearance was like that of the Concepcione. It will be seen in the engrav- ing that there is but one tower remaining. No attempt has been made to supply the ruined parts, or to picture the build- ings as they originally were. " Some published engravings represent San yose as hav- ing had but one tower. The opinion of the writer is that at first there were two, as at Concepcione. The principal door- way is a wonderful work of sculptural art. Its height is about thirty-five feet. Fronting the door, which is semi- circular, there is a sculpture of foliage and scriptural em- blems intermixed. On the right stands a statue of St. Joseph ; on the left, statues of the Virgin Mother and infant Saviour. Above the keystone of the arch is a statue repre- senting the Virgin in the position which, in ecclesiastical art, indicates the doctrine of the Immaculate Conception, the arms partly raised and extended, with the palms of the hands turned outward. Above this is a large window, with ornamental surroundings of sacred emblems, flowers and foliage. There are also three statues of friars, in the habit of their Order. It is noteworthy that the female statues are less true to nature than those which represent the men and children, of which latter there are several in the form of winged cherubs. The Madonna has the square jaw and hard features which are seldom found save in women whose lot has been full of danger, hardship, and suffering. SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. 77 *' The statue of St. Joseph and those of the friars are ex- cellent. "In size, San Jose was perhaps four times that of any of the others. Its baptistery window is almost equal to the main door in sculptural beauty. The portion in ruins is very ex- tensive, more than half the walls having fallen. A few Mexicans live near and care for the chapel, which was a model of rude neatness. The clever, and evidently pious, Mexican matron who brought the key for our entrance, had hung the altar with gaudy patchwork quilts of her own manu- facture. The most exquisite tapestry could not have told the story of devout love more plainly. There were some old pictures which, in the dim twilight of the setting sun, could not be well seen. Every part of tiie ruined chapel was arranged with neatness and decency. The floor of the sacristry and that of the baptistery, which we could not enter, had been paved with tiles of home manufacture. " The clay of which these were made was procured in the vicinity; and they are equal to any of European manufacture. This clay will, doubtless, one day be the foundation of a valuable industry. " The third mission is that of " SAN JUAN DE CONCEPCION. " It is six miles from San Antonio, and on the east bank of the river. Its natural location is most delightful. The bends of the river at this point are of surpassing loveliness. " It was located on its present site about 1731. ♦• This Mission is in a style of architecture much less ornate than that of the others, unless, as seems to be the case, the 78 SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. buildings now standing were intended to be the parts of a large and grand design. The architecture, though of the same general character, seems to be somewhat different in style in the third and fourth Mission from that of the first and second. From the cursory examination that our time permitted to be given to it, the impression was that the present chapel was intended for permanent use as a granary or storehouse, when the main building, of which it seems to be the. left wing, should be finished. Be this as it may, this Mission was evidently far from being complete. " The festival of the patron saint had been celebrated a few days before our visit, and the altar had been arranged for service. Before it stood two life-sized images — the one, Ecce Homo, and the other the Virgin Mother. Doubtless they served to suggest holy thoughts and pious emotions to the uncultured Mexicans who worshiped there ; but it may not have been sinful to smile at the art which arrayed the '* Mother of Our Lord" in a dress of white Swiss, wanting only a pin-back to be in the latest style of the dressmaker s art. It is noteworthy that the Mexicans who still surround these Missions are more cleanly, orderly, and reverential than those of the city. Intellectually they appear no higher ; morally they are better. "THE FOURTH MISSION, Of San Francisco de Espada, is nine miles down the river, and has suffered more from time and hostility than the others. The front wall, or rather a portion of it, still stands. All the rest is a pile of ruined stones. " Tourists will discover nowhere in America ruins more 8o SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. interesting than these Missions. Artists will nowhere find inspiration for their pencils like that which the landscape that surrounds them affords. " It is much to be hoped that Concepcione, at least, will be restored and preserved to future generations. A pious Catholic lady once devised a scheme to renovate the build- ings and make them a home for health— an Hotel des In- valides, where consumptives an'd others could resort for relief and cure. It is a great pity that the war ended this, as it did so many other good projects. FIFTH MISSION. This Mission, though not in the immediate vicinity of San Antonio, has, nevertheless, a cer- tain interest for travelers, and we give a short description of it. Goliad, or La Bahia, by which name it is bet- ter known, was founded soon after the Spaniards arrived in Texas. It is situated on the west bank of the river, and at one time had a population of nearly two thousand inhabitants, but now contains but about sixty or seventy families. There is a pretty new town on the north side of the stream, principally American, which has been built within the last twenty years While Mexico and Spain were at war, Gutierez, a Mexican general, was besieged in this Mission by a large Spanish force, which he repulsed. SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. 8 1 It was once an important business point, enjoy- ing a remunerative trade between it and the Rio Grande. The ruins of a custom house may yet be seen near the Mission. The church was built in an oblong form, twenty feet by eighty, with an arched roof of solid masonry — as all of the Missions were. A stone wall, three hundred and fifty feet square, surrounded it, and the fort attached to it com- manded the river and the town, and had a bastion at each corner. Colonel Fannin, on the 19th of March, 1836, was, with four hundred and fifteen men, captured here by a large body of Mexicans. On the morn- ing of the 27th of the same month, his men were marched out in line and shot. Fannin himself, calmly seated in a chair, was shot within the Mis- sion walls. 6 i( frusiiii •^ CHAPTER IV. PUBLIC BUILDII^QS. THE POST OFFICE. HE Post Office building is leased for ten years; from December i, 1877, to December i, 1887, at ^1,000 per annum. It is a two-story stone building — tlie lower portion only being used for the post office. It was built by Peter Gallagher, (now dec'd), especially for the post office, according to specifi- cations submitted with his proposition, which was made, it is thought, more out of public spirit than with a view of making money. Mr. Gallagher was an Irishman, very shrewd, of good business habits and judgment — made a very large fortune, mostly it is thought, by trade with the Mexicans — a man of good heart, good head, and with a great deal of pride in his city. It is said to be the finest rented post office (84) SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. 85 building in the southwest. The boxes are all Yale lock boxes, and the fitting up generally is said to have cost Mr. Gallagher ^3,500. The building is situated on the Alamo Plaza, near the Menger House, the first hotel in the place. It is now owned by the Gallagher estate. The post office at San Antonio, Texas, was es- tablished 2 2d May, T846, and is of the second class; the postmaster's compensation is ^2,500. The surplus proceeds of the office are deposited with the postmaster at Austin, Texas. It is also a money-order office. Gross revenue for fiscal year ending June 30. 1880 ^27,856 65 Expenses of office, salaries, etc iIj452 78 Net revenue $16,403 87 Number of money domestic orders issued, fiscal year ending June 30, 1 880 6,892 Amount of same $106,790 77 Amount of fees on money-order business (do- mestic) $901 10 Number of domestic orders paid 7^541 Amount of same $180,522 99 Number of international orders issued 345 Amount of same $6,521 74 Fees on international money-orders 160 70 » Postmaster James L. Truehart appointed May 22, 1 846. 86 SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. Postmaster O. C. Woodward appointed July 7, 1847. Postmaster Ralph W. Peacock appointed Nov. 18, 1847. Postmaster John Borden appointed May 9, 1848. Office became subject to Presidential Appointment, and Postmaster John Borden appointed March 16, 1853. Postmaster A. G. Brown appointed July 24, 1855. Postmaster Henry L. Radaz appointed June 25, 1856. Postmaster Sidney P. Gambie. appointed June 23, 1865. Postmaster Mrs. Margaret E. Morris appointed April 19, 1876. Postmaster John C. Manning appointed Aug. 15, 1879. John C. Manning present incumbent. SAN ANTONIO, TEXAS MAILS. SenL Rec d. Route 31002, Houston to San Antonio. Railroad Mails ... 6 6 Star Mails Route 31 148, San Antonio to Corpus Christi 6 6 31149, " Helena 6 6 3 11 50, " Laredo 6 6 31 151, " Stockdale 6 6 31 152, " Friotown 6 6 31 153, " Eagle Pass 7 7 31 154, " Bandera 6 6 31155, " Fredericksburg.... 7 7 31621, " Spring Branch i i 31677, " Rossville 6 6 Total mails received and sent per week .... 63 63 UNITED STATES QUARTERMASTER'S DEPOT. Brief history and description of the United States Quartermaster'' s Depot, San Antonio, Texas. Ever since the Mexican war, it has been consid- SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. 87 ered that San Antonio was the most eligible point in Texas for Military Headquarters, and for a gen- eral depot of military supplies ; except at short intervals, and for short periods of time, from 1848 to 1861, this has been the military centre of Texas. A permanent government establishment here was a matter equally important to the United States and to the people of this city and section. The old historic Alamo buildings, and a spacious structure erected by Messrs. Vance & Bro., af- forded accommodation for the Military Headquar- ters and Depot, for many years previous and up to 1861. After the restoration of the United States author- ity in Texas, in 1865, San Antonio again assumed its military importance. On the 17th December, 1867, Judge S. A. Pas- chal offered a donation to the United States Government, through its department commander, of 20 acres of city lots, adjoining a tract of 70 acres of government land, known as the Goot Tan- nery, on the west side and just below the head of the river, as a site for headquarters and depot. That offer was not favorably considered. In February, 1869, the city authorities offered a donation of sixty (60) acres, situa*ted a quarter of 88 SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. a mile below the United States Arsenal, on the west side of the river, as a site, and also tendered free use of the rock quarries at the head of the river. This was declined by the War Department on account of certain conditions annexed to the donation. In May, 1869, another site -was tendered by the city to the government, of about (100) one hun- dred acres, on the river, north of the city on the east side. This offer was not accepted. In February, 1870, the city again offered a site of forty (40) acres of city lots located on the Alamo ditch, northeast, and about two and one- half (2j4) niiles from the main Plaza; this tract now forms a part of the present depot grounds. This donation was strongly recommended by the Department Commander, approved by the Quartermaster-General, and accepted by the War Department. On the 25th April, 1870, the Secretary of War authorized the Quartermaster-General to establish and erect upon this site a depot for military sup- plies; the Quartermaster-General having stated under date of April 21st, that he was " of opinion that nearly all the military establishment of San Antonio can be concentrated within the limits of SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. 89 this depot, and that nearly the whole rent roll, now near ^25,000, can be saved." On May 5th, 1870, ^100,000 was placed to the credit of the Chief Quartermaster in Texas, with instructions that no part thereof was to be expended until the deed to the land was examined and ap- proved by the Attorney-General. The city executed an unconditional deed, to the United States, of this site, dated May 6th, 1870; that, with the proclamation of the Governor, re- linquishing jurisdiction of the State of Texas over said tract, dated June 3d, 1870, was handed to the Chief Quartermaster of Department of Texas, on the 23d of June, 1870, and forwarded to the Quartermaster-General, and by him forwarded to the Attorney General in July following. Plans for depot buildings were submitted by the Quartermaster-General to the Secretary of War, August 14, 1870. It was not until March 23, 187 1, that the Attor- ney-General decided that the title was good and valid to the United States ; and on the 31st of the same month the Quartermaster-General instructed the Chief Quartermaster, Department, of Texas, to ''push forward the work of erecting buildings, and to transfer public stores thereto, and abate the heavy rents paid, as fast as possible." 90 SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. On the 22d of April, 1871, it was discovered that plans sent to the War Department in August, 1870, had been overlooked, and not sent to Department Headquarters in Texas; and it was also ascertained, then, that the land donated and accepted did not include the site desired ; all action, therefore, was suspended until August, 1871. The city of San Antonio, on the nth of August, 1 871, made an additional donation of adjoining lots, on the east line of former donation, compris- ing forty-three (43) acres, making a tract of eighty- three (83) acres. Deeds to this second donation were forwarded, through the War Department, to the Attorney- General, and by him, on the 8th of January, 1872, returned disapproved for want of certain evidence. The requisite evidwice was obtained, and re- turned to the Attorney-General in February, 1872 ; and, on the nth of June, following, the Attorney- General decided that the Government had a valid title to the land of the second donation. On the 28th of June, 1872, the Quartermaster- General informed the commanding officer. Depart- ment of Texas, that under a law approved May 18, 1872, the Secretary of War had decided that the ^100,000, previously set apart for building the SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. 9 1 depot, must be covered back into the Treasury, and no further action about building the depot could be taken. The President, in his message to Congress, De- cember, 1872, recommended a re-appropriation of ^100,000 for the San Antonio depot. On the 2d of January, 1873, ^^^^ Secretary of War — then W. W. Belknap — addressed a commun- ication to the Senate and House of Representatives, in which he '* withdrew the recommendation for the construction of a permanent depot for military supplies in San Antonio, Texas, contained in his annual report of November, 1872." The city of San Antonio, in January, 1873, took measures to have the importance of the subject — economy to the Government, its good faith in- volved (having accepted eighty-three (8;^) acres of city lots as a donation for the purpose) — duly and properly represented to Congress by a special agent selected and sent to Washington for that purpose. Congress, at that session, re-appropriated $too,- 000 for a military depot of supplies at San Antonio, Texas, by act approved the 3d of March, 1873. On the 24th of March, 1873,, the Secretary of War instructed the Quartermaster-General to "al- 92 SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. low no action to be taken by any officer of his department looking to the erection of these depot bnildings until further instructions from him;" and it was not until May 6th, 1875, that said further instructions were given, Congress, mean- while, having continued the appropriation. The Quartermaster- General on the 12th May, 1875, informed the Chief Quartermaster Depart- ment of Texas, that the "Secretary of War has given orders that this long delayed and important work shall now go on." Plans and instructions were then again prepared and forwarded. A third donation from the city to the United States of g^-^Q acres of city lots, adjoining on the south the two previous donations, making a total of 92y^-q\ acres — for a site, was made on the j6th of June, 1875, ^'"^^ ^^^^^ thereto was decided to be valid by the Attorney-General on the 5th October, 1875. Proclamation by the Governor, ceding ex- clusive jurisdiction over the last two donations of land to the United States, was made May 27th, 1878. In the interval, between June and October, 1875, proposals for constructing the Depot had been invited, bids received and opened August 20, 1875. All these bids were rejected. SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. 93 About June ist, 1875, Brevet Major-General M. C. Meigs, Quartermaster- General, was ordered to Europe; and no active steps were taken in erect- ing the buildings until the resignation of Secretary Belknap, and the return of General Meigs to duty as Quartermaster-General, in April, 1876. Measures were then taken for the completion of the work. Proposals invited by advertisement, published May 12, were opened on the 31st May, 1876, and the contract for building the Depot awarded to Ed. Braden & Co., of San Antonio, at ^83,900.00, and a preliminary contract signed June 7th, 1876. The work was vigorously pushed by Chief Quartermaster A. G. Perry — Deputy Quartermaster-General Captain Geo. W. Davis, 14th U. S. Infantry, having immediate supervision and direction, aided by Col. W. H. Darn, Civil Engineer. On the 4th of February, 1878, the contract was officially reported as having been fully complied with, and the Depot buildings completed. Total cost of buildings up to that time, includ- ing certain extra work provided for in contract, was ^98,366.62. Since then, to provide offices for Department Headquarters, an addition to the second story of the south front of the depot lias 94 SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. been constructed. This work was ordered by the Secretary of War, July 9th, 1878, and executed promptly by Brevet Brig. -General B. C. Card, Chief Quartermaster, Department of Texas, cost- ing ^19,952.00. This was completed November 4th, 1878. The Depot buildings are located upon the land donated by the city of San Antonio, in the South-- east corner of the tract, which comprise ()2^-^j^ acres, situated northeast of the main Plaza, and distant therefrom two and one-half (2 j^) miles. The buildings cover four sides of a square of six hundred and twenty-four (624) feet, outside measurement. Built of rubble stone masonry, with tin roof. Stone, a gray limestone from the quarries near the head of the San Antonio river. On the east, west, and first story of south sides of square are the store rooms ; size, generally 30x40 feet in the clear ; on the north side are the shops and wagon sheds, and storage room for rough material ; two cellars under the two store rooms of east end of south side of square, for sub- sistence stores of a certain class. In the second story of south front are the offices. l\\ all there are thirt)--eight (38) store rooms and two cellar rooms, opening only upon the inner court yard. SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. 95 There are twenty-four (24) office rooms, gen- erally 20x20 feet, in the clear, opening upon a veranda and arcade on the north front of south side of square. Veranda and arcade (10) ten feet wide, extending the whole length of that side. In the centre of south front is the main arch- way entrance ; also, one gateway in the east point near the north end, and another gateway near the north end of west point. In the centre of the court yard there is a water and watch tower fifteen (15) feet square at the base, and ninety (90) feet high to eaves of roof. In the apex of the roof of the tower is placed a lantern, at night lighting the whole couri-yard, and making every store-room door and gateway plainly visible to the watchman from his room near the top of the tower. Just under the roof is an iron tank containing 6,400 gallons of water; below that is the watch- man's room, 64 feet from the ground, with triplet French casement windows, in each face of the tower, opening upon narrow ornamental balconies of iron, supported by stone brackets. A brick shaft four (4) feet square is constructed in the centre of the tower from base to the floor of the watchman's room; between the shaft and 96 SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. the walls of the tower is the stairway ; up through, well in the centre of the shaft, are passed the water pipes to the tank. Adjoining the north side of the square is an en- closure 638x728 feet, the north and east sides of "which are formed by a close board fence eight (8) feet high ; the west side an open board fence five (5) feet high ; the north side of Depot walls form- ing the south line. Within said enclosure are located the stables, corrals, and men's quarters; the stables afford stall-room for 404 animals ; the men's quarters are 120x20 feet. To the west and adjoining this enclosure, is the stack or hay yard. A complete system of water supply is provided at the Depot. The machinery of the water works is located in a building near the Acequia Madre, or Alamo ditch, at the western end of Government Depot land, on ground 77 feet lower than the earth's sur- face at the foot of the towers, eight (8) feet above the level of water in Acequia which is 50 feet dis- tant, and 26 feet above surface of water in San Antonio river, 1,430 feet distant. A forty horse power engine works the steam pump. There are two suction pipes 6 inches in diameter ; one with Acequia, the other to the river. A 4-inch main SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. 97 carries the water to the Tower, and the tank therein can be filled — 6,400 gallons — in 35 minutes. The engineer can at all times see an indicator, upon the face of the Tower, showing the height of water in the tank. Elevation of water level in tank above water in San Antonio river, at entrance of suction pipe, is one hundred and ninety-one (191) feet. From the tank in top of Tower, supply pipes take the water to hydrants conveniently located at various points in the court yard and stables, corral and stack yard, and with hose kept always at hand the arrangements would seem to afford complete protection from danger of fire. Two underground cisterns, one in each of the rectangular spaces nearest the south front of Depot, serve to store rain water falling upon the east, west and south fronts, by a system of tin gutters, conductors and earthenware drains. Capacity of each cistern, 77,000 gallons. A two-inch water pipe is laid from the foot of the Tower to flagstaff of the National Cemetery south of Depot, distant 3,117 yards; elevation of ground at foot of Tower over that at the flagstaff is 20 feet. The suction pipe from pump, house on the Acequia to the river is laid over lands belonging 7 98 SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. to two citizens, each of whom has granted to the United States a free and perpetual right of way for the pipe, and the right to maintain and repair it whenever necessary ; said grants are in the form of deeds of gift, and are duly recorded in the records of the county. By permission of the city authorities, the pipe from the Depot to the National Cemetery is laid along streets dividing the city lots between Depot grounds and the Cemetery. The whole area covered and enclosed by Depot buildings, including — Sheds , 9.17 acres. Area of court 7.39 " " covered by store rooms 1.23 " " " " shops 6,000 sq. feet. " " " sheds 29,904 " " (clear) of store room floors 42,630 " " " of (2) two cellars 2,306 " " concrete floors laid 9,022^ " " of wooden floors, store rooms, oflice buildings 4>230 " Cubical contents storerooms including cellars. 705,140 *' Area of whole surface of roofs except Tower. 85,804 " Area of roofs measured horizontally in rela- tion to rain fall 79,030 " Area of court laid out in streets 89,065 j^ " Storage capacity for rain water, two cisterns, each 77,000 gallons. Total 154,000 gallons. SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. 99 WATER WORKS. San Antonio has been supplied with water from its foundation by two streams, San Antonio River and San Pedro Creek, together with ditches taken from each, which irrigate the valley on both sides, not only in the city, but for a distance of twenty- five miles from the head down. An artificial sys- tem of water works was completed last year. Powerful machinery, located just below the head of the San Antonio River, is driven by two large turbine wheels, the power being derived from the river ; this is sufficient to force water to every part of the city. But besides, on an elevation about three hundred feet above the city, an immense reservoir has been constructed, and is filled by the same power. The spring waters are very pure and limpid, are in greatest supply, and the most invariable known anywhere on the continent. San Antonio may well be proud of the advance- ment made in the past year, and particularly as being the possessor of a most thorough and com- plete system of water works. They are now com- plete, in working order, and giving perfect satis- faction in every respect. The works are a combination of the reservoir and direct pressure system ; the reservoir has lOO SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. a capacity of five million gallons, and its elevation above the Main Plaza is one hundred and fifty feet. The total length of the mains now laid is about ten miles; and the capacity of the works is between two and a half and three million gallons per day. The building of these works will add much to the city's prosperity, in the way of furnishing the motive power for the successful running of all classes of manufacturing enterprises, and at a small cost. The water works company was organized by one of San Antonio's ablest and most enterprising citizens, Mr. J. B. Lacoste, who secured the inter- est and co-operation of the well-known bridge builders, Messrs. Z. King & Son, of Cleveland, Ohio, who entered into the contract to complete the works by the ist of July, and w^io filled their contract to the letter. This firm also displayed their usual enterprise and liberality in the undertaking, and confidence in the future of San Antonio as well as that of the water works, when they accepted the bonds of the company in payment therefor. The Secretary, Mr. W. R. Freeman, was the SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. lOI able engineer of these works, which adds another standing monument to his already enviable reputa- tion as a superior engineer. The Treasurer of the company is Mr. S. A. Oliver, a gentleman in every way qualified for the position. He is also the local agent of Z. King & Son, iron workers and bridge builders; and has done much and added not a little to the advance- ment of the water works company, and the suc- cessful completion of the same. THE CHURCHES. Religious denominations are : Roman Catholic, Irish American. '' " Mexican. " '' German. " " Polish. *' " Convent. Protestant Episcopal. Methodist Episcopal, South. '' " North. Presbyterian. Lutheran. German Methodist. Episcopal Metiiodist, Colored. " '* Mexican. ' Baptist. ** Colored. I02 SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. From ^^ Western Texas ^ The churches of San Antonio are remarkable for their architectural beauty. First stands the old Cathedral of San Fernando, founded in 1722, from whose dome waved the blood-red flag when the Alamo fell. Much of the structure is modern, but the dome still surmounts the sacristy — a model of venerable beauty.' In the baptistery there stands a sculptured font, executed in the days when the San Franciscans had possession, and is beautifully wrought. St. Mary's, the English church, is of composite architecture, most of it having been built since the war, under the direction of Father Johnson, a priest of great learning and urbanity. The reverend father is as profound an antiquarian as ever was Monk- barns, and delights to revel in the old histories of the missions which surround the city. It is to be hoped that ere long there will be committed to him the pious work of their restoration — a work in which he will have the sympathy and assistance of Protestants, as well as Catholics, for America has too few ruins to afford the loss of one. The Ger- man Catholic church is a large and fine structure. The appointment of the Right Rev. Dominic Pellicier, Bishop of San Antonio, has given the I SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. I03 Catholic Church new 'vigor, and will, without any doubt, greatly enhance the religious and civil wel- fare of Texas. St. Mark's (Episcopal) church is destined to exercise a great influence in the change which must shortly overtake San Antonio and Western Texas The energetic Bishop Elliott, whose home is in San Antonio, contemplates, as already stated, great things for his diocese ; and among them is the organization of St. Mark's on the cathedral plan, and the establishment of a fine college at San Antonio, to be called in remembrance of that man of God who was called home from the floor of the General Convention, Rev. Dr. Montgomery. These plans will greatly advantage the city, by enhancing the beauty of its religious, and improv- ing its educational facilities. St. Mark's, which has been erected and adorned by the untiring efforts and artistic skill of its rector, the Rev. Dr. W. R. Richardson, would be accounted beautiful and be esteemed an ornament in the largest city. It is in all its appointments constructed in exquisite taste, and in strict con- formity with the traditions of the English Church. Each stained window is a memorial offering. The ceiling is decorated by the pencil of the I04 SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. rector, while the altar cross is delicately carved by the pen-knife of the same artist. The bell is rich in historic associations, having been cast from cannon found near the Alamo. It is more than probable that the gun which Travis served now proclaims the glad tidings of peace where once was raised the red flag of bloody carnage, and that the organ of St.* Mark's melodiously proclaims the glad tones of gloria in exceisis, where the assassin notes of the duello sounded on that dreadful Sunday morning. The Presbyterian church will be, when com- pleted, a fine building. The Methodists have a thriving church. The Baptist church ministers to a flourishing congregation. In speaking of the schools. Rev. B. Harris, pastor of the M. E. Church South, San Antonio, says: "San Antonio is well supplied with schools." There is a Roman Catholic College, with a spacious building, well furnished and fully offi- cered. The average attendance of students is about four hundred. The institution enjoys the highest degree of prosperity. "The Convent of the Ursuline Sisters has an average attendance of three hundred and forty I06 SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. Students, the patronage from abroad being exten- sive. ''The free schools of the city are thoroughly furnished and largely attended. Two new and elegant structures of stone are now completed, and with a full corps of teachers, free instruction is offered to every child within the city limits." Mr. Harris then enumerates four private schools, which have an average attendance of four hundred and nine, and adds that '' there are other private schools which are well attended." We would state that in all ther6 are fifteen pub- lic schools in operation in the city, and that those of scholastic age in the county number forty-five hundred. WATER POWER OF THE SAN ANTONIO RIVER. The level of the water surface was taken at differ- ent points, indicated by letters A, B, C, D, etc., the distance between which can be readily estimated with the assistance of the scale. The elevations and the fall from point to point are given in the table accompanying the sketch. This sketch shows also some of the principal springs that supply the river. The Olmos Creek is a dry stream, so that the whole volume of water in the river may be reck- SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. I07 oned as coming from these springs. The irrigating ditches are taken out with sHght falls, and conse- quently indicate the contour of the ground and the extent of the valley. The point A is at the head of the upper Labor Ditch. The water sup- ply above this is considered less reliable. From A to B, there is now in process of construction a canal to conduct the water to the turbines of the projected water works. The fall, as shown, is 6^ feet. In the section C D, somewhat over a mile in length, there is considerable power, as indicated by the fall, 14^^ feet. The thick underbrush on one side and cultivated land on the other pre- vented our reaching the river with the level be- tween these points. Between F and G, in the suburbs, is the site of the Alamo Mills, with a canal of about one-eight of a mile and a fall of about seven feet, which could be considerably in- creased. After passing this point, the fall of the river is slight, until we reach the Mill Bridge in the city, near the Lewis Mill. There is a distance across a bend, L M, of 650 feet ; we have a fall of 5^^ (say 5^) feet. N is just belq^w the dam of Guenther's upper mill. This uses two feet at I08 SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. present, which could be increased by raising the dam. O is below Guenther's lower mill, where there is a fall of slightly over four feet. When the river is high the fall of the lower miil is increased to the prejudice of that at the upper — the water backing up to the latter. In the sections O P and P Q, there is available power, and in the last more especially. Commencing at Q is the line of a survey for a canal or ditch, designed to follow the general con- tour of the ground to R. Thence, to the river at S, there is a fall of 29^ feet, making a total fall from A, near the head of the river, of lo'Jf^j\ feet. Further than this, we have made no exami- nation. The volume of the river, determined by actual experiments, is about 16,149 cubic feet per minute, equivalent to 30^ horse power for each foot of fall. The h. p. for any fall may be found by mul- tiplying 30^ by this fall. The overflows ^f the San Antonio are occasional rather than periodic. They are invariably caused by the rising of the Olmos creek, which, draining some twelve leagues of land, empties into the San Antonio near its head. (See sketch). The plan SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. I09 of cutting a canal from the Olmos to the Alazan, a deep dry creek, about one mile west of the city, is, we are convinced, practicable, and not very expensive. It is believed that by this plan all the water coming down the Olmos, after heavy rains, could be taken through the Alazan without detri- .ment to property of any description. The river rises sometimes, although rarely, from this cause, ten to twelve feet. Throwing aside these rises, the San Antonio, as it runs through the city, is practically an unvarying stream. The banks are, in most places, over eight feet high, so that it is improbable that valuable lands would be injured by back water. The building stone of the neighborhood (lime- stone) may be called good in a climate where there are no severe frosts. The cost of good rub- ble masonry is about ^4.25 per j^erch, and that of ashlar masonry ^7. Most of the sites suitable for factories can be purchased. That in the city, near the Lewis Mill (L M), is now upon the market. The land below the lower mill is believed to be for sale pretty gen- erally. The survey for the '* Proposed Ditch " on the sketch was made, when the question of locating a branch penitentiary at San Antonio was agitated. no SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. This ditch would take the water upon a tract of some 300 acres, known as the Cook Tract. Supposing the water power and labor problems solved satisfactorily, the adaptability of San An- tonio to wool manufacturing seems beyond a doubt. The quantity of wool coming to this market is yearly increasing, and its quality rapidly improving. We consider it equally well adapted to the man- ufacture of cotton. It is true, but little cotton is now sold here. There is, nevertheless, considerable raised within easy distance, which goes to Gal- veston, being bought on the ground by Galveston agents. Much of this, it is thought, would be de- livered by the planters themselves anywhere in the city or suburbs, at prices slightly below the Gal- veston value. Stimulated by a ready market, the quantity raised would increase. It is the opinion among many of the older resi- dents that the Mexican labor, of which there is an abundance, is well calculated to meet the require- ments of large factories These would need disci- pline and skillful management; but it is thought they would prove apt and faithful. There are also a great many Germans in the city and in the sur- rounding country, from whose families factory hands might be obtained. I SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. Ill While we do not regard it certain that any class of population is adapted to factory labor, we pre- sume that with a healthy climate, a rich surrounding country, and a progressive community, San Antonio can command immigration to supply any need that may arise. The local demand for domestic cotton goods is large — much being required for the Mexican trade. Furthermore, there is a good market here for almost all articles of domestic manufacture. Irrespective of its advantages as a manufacturing point, the future of San Antonio is bright. Its climate is healthful and health-giving. Hundreds visit it annually to restore broken constitutions. And it is the centre of a rich country, gradually being appropriated to agricultural and grazing purposes, with improved stock and modern ap- pliances. REFERENCE j1— Entrance. /?— rrison. C Convent. i>— Alamo. £— Bairacka. GROUND PLAN OP THE ALAMO. CHAPTER V. miscella:n^eous. GROUND PLAN OF THE ALAMO. HE Chapel of the fortress was seventy-five feet long, sixty-two feet wide; and the wall, which was of solid masonry, was twenty-two feet high, and four feet thick. It was originally in one story, but had upper windows, or openings, under which platforms were erected for mounting cannon. A wall, fifty feet high and four feet thick, connected the Alamo with the convent, and continued around, enclosing the square of the mission, and enclosing also the barracks. The barracks and convent were of stone. The former was a long, low building, one story, one hundred and fourteen feet long, and seventeen feet wide. The convent was a two-story building, one hun- dred and eighty- six feet long, eighteen feet high, and eighteen feet wide. The original walls of this house were about thirty inches thick, parts of ^ ("3) 114 ^^N ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. which are still standing. They had at the time flat terrace roofs of beams and planks, coated thickly with the same kind of cement as that used on the roofs of the old missions ; it was solid, hard as stone, and entirely impervious to water. The barracks have long since disappeared, the '^ mis- sion square ' ' has lost its enclosing walls, and the space is now a, part of the street. The convent is still standing, or a part of it, but the old Spanish roof has been replaced by a more modern one. From ' ' Western Texas. " THE SAN MARCOS RIVER. Although not in the immediate vicinity of San Antonio, it belongs essentially to it, and we insert the poem for that reason, and also for its rare beauty. The beautiful stream called the San Marcos is in the western part of the County, and affords water power for any number of mills, which will ere long make this a great manufacturing county. . Far o'er the hills and toward the dying day, Set like a heart, a living heart, deep, deep Within the bosom of its wide prairies, Lies the Valley of San Marcos. And there, A princess roused from slumber by the kiss Of balmy Southern skies, the river springs SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. II5 From out her rocky bed, and hastens on Far down the vale, to give her royal hand In marriage to the waiting Guadalupe. Like some grim giant keeping silent watch, While from his feet his recreant daughter flies, Above, the hoary mountain stands, his head Encircled by an emerald-pointed crown Of cedars, strong as those of Lebanon, That bow their sombre crests, and woo the wind, Drunken with fragrance from the vale below. About his brow, set like a dusky chain. The mystic Race-Paths run — his amulet — And nestled squarely 'gainst his rugged breast, Perched quaintly 'mong the great scarred rocks that hang Like tombstones on the mountain-side, the nest The Falcon built still lingers, though the wing That swept the gathering dust from off our shield. Hath long since drooped to dust ! Now wooed by dusky glooms on either side, Now whirling round the craggy banks, now stayed By tangled vines that stretch their arms across, The river glideth farther from her sire. Below, an ancient mill, with laggard wheels, Is mirrored in her glassy depths, and broad The mill-race reaches out his arms, all decked With pebble-stones, and fringed with purple flags, And strives to bar her onward course — in vain, For, nerved with sudden fear, she springs, and bright Her rainbow garments glitter in the sun, .•\s on she pants toward the shallow ford. Il6 SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. And here, down sloping to the water's marge, The fields, all golden with the harvest, come ; And here the horseman, reining in his steed At eve, will pause and mark the village spires Gleam golden in the setting sun, and far Across a deeply-furrowed field will glance With idle eye upon a stately hill. That, girt with cedars, rises like a king. To mark the further limit of the field. 'Twas there, between the hill and river, stood A shaded cottage ; and its roof was low And dark, and vines that twined the porch but served To hide the bleakness of its wall. But then 'Twas home, and ^'■Heaven is near us in our childhood^'' And I was but a child ; and summer days. That since have oftentimes seemed long and sad, Were fleeter then than even the morning winds That sent my brother's fairy bark, well balanced, In safety down the river's tide. Alas ! Is there, can there be aught in all the world To soothe the sick soul to such perfect rest As filled its early dreams ? Is there no fount, Like that of old so madly sought by Leon, Where the worn soul may bathe and rise renewed ? And u'-> and down the banks before our door. Now gathering up the yellow lily-buds. That lay like golden flagons on the stream. Now idly bending down the ragged sedge That rustled in the lazy summer breeze, And now among the grape-vines, where they hung SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. II7 In light festoons above the water-edge, With careless step I roamed. Well I remember, Down where the river makes a sudden bend, Below the ford, and near the dusky road, Upon her bosom sleeps a fairy isle, Enwreathed about with snowy alder-boughs And tapestried with vines that bore a flower Whose petals looked like drops of blood (We called it " Lady of the Bleeding Heart"). And through it wandered little careless paths, That writhed like wounded snakes among the buds Of tufted grass; and o'er this living gem The very skies seemed bluer, and the waves. That rippled round it, threw up brighter spray. Upon the banks for hours I've stood and longed To bask amid its shades ; and when at last My brother dragged, with wondrous care, his boat. Rude-fashioned, small, and furnished with one oar. Across the long slope from the stately hill Where it was built, ne'er did Columbus' heart Beat with a throb so wild upon that shore. Unknown to any save to him, as ours When, with o'erwearied hands and labored breath, We steered in safety o'er the dangerous way, And stood the monarchs of that fair realm ! My brother, how I wish our wayward feet Once more could feel that lordly pride — our hearts Once more know all their cravings satisfied ! Il8 SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. Sweet valley of San Marcos ! few are the years That since have linked their golden hands and fled Like spirits down the valley of the past — And yet it seems a weary time to me ! Sweet River of San Marcos ! the openings seen Between thy moss-hung trees, like golden paths Th<^t lead through Eden to heaven's fairer fields, Show glimpses of the broad, free, boundless plains Ihat circle thee around. Thine own prairies 1 How my sad spirit would exult to bathe Its wings, all heavy with the dust of care. Deep in their glowing beauty ! How my heart, O'ershadowed with this cloud of gloom, would wake To life anew beneath those summer skies ! My home is nestled now among the hills, The wooded hills, like those of that fair State, That queen among the daughters of the South, That gave me birth ; and gaily flits the breeze Among the boughs of oaks whose trunks Are wedded with the rings of centuries : And maples, clothed like princes, wave their flags Above the serried armies of the fern, That march along the forest stream, where low The beeches sweep their brightly-gleaming leaves; And one tall pine, a sentinel, keeps watch Before my very door. The trees, the forest trees ! My heart beats full And high beneath their stately limbs ! And yet, At times methinks our mountain air seems thick ; And the green tresses of our forest trees, SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. II9 They choke my very breathing ! Then, then I fam would spurn my native shades, and fain Would sweep with untamed wing across the broad And boundless prairies of the West, and breathe ISIy freedom back beneath unshadowed skies ! Oh, river of my childhood ! fair Valley Queen ! Within thy bosom yet at morn the sun Dips deep his silver beams, and on thy tide At night, the stars, the yellow stars, are mirrored ; Through emerald marshes yet thine eddies curl, And yet that fairy isle in beauty sleeps (Like her of old who waits the wakening kiss Of some true knight to break her magic sleep). And yet, heavy with purple cups, the flags Droop down toward the mill ; but I — oh, I No more will wander by thy shores, nor float At twilight down thy glassy tide ! — no more. And yet, San Marcos, when some river flower, All swooning with its nectar-drops, is laid Before my eyes, its beauty scarce is seen For tears which stain my eyelids, and for dreams Which glide before me of thy fairy charms. And swell my heart with longing. Sweet River of San Marcos ! THF. WATER POWER OF WESTERN TEXAS. While Western Texas is comparatively a dry country, and has a reputation in this regard far beyond the reality, yet it has some of the finest and most permanent streams to be found any- I20 SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. where. At the base of the mountains running across Texas from southwest to northeast, begin- ning about Lampasas and Salado in Bell county, there is a series of springs of a magnificent charac- ter, extending at intervals to San Antonio. The Lampasas and Salado springs form streams on which there is valuable water power. They are, however, by no means equal to the very large springs of San Marcos, Comal and San Antonio. At each of these points vast volumes of water gush out from various places, forming rivers large enough to float a steamboat. At the head of the San Marcos river there is sufficient fall to command an immense power for propelling machinery. All along down that stream for fifteen or twenty miles, at intervals of two or three miles, there are fine sites for mills. The amount of water is ample to carry on very large factories ; so that we may expect that river to be studded with large manufacturing towns, from its source down pretty nearly to its junction with the Guadalupe. The Comal spring, on the Guadalupe, near New Braunfels, is a vast volume of water. It is about three miles from its source to its entrance into the river. The two form a body of water several times larger than the San Marcos. SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. 121 A little above the town of Braunfels a fall is obtained of about fifteen feet, by simply turning the water out of the bed of the stream by a brush dam, which causes the water to flow in a natural race or canal ; conducting it to a dry creek, and forming a natural outlet for the water into the river again. At this point, with a head of fifteen feet, which might be increased by elevating the dam, there is a saw mill and grist mill, and one or two cotton gins. At this site power sufficient can be had to propel machinery for vast factories. Between that point and the Guadalupe there is a fall of sixteen feet or more. Mr. Torrey, at his mill and factory, has a fall of about eight feet. When all of his works were in motion he used comparatively a small part of the water. On the San Antonio, beginning at Goliad, quite up to the city of San Antonio, there are frequent shoals and falls, rendering the w-ater of that river available as a propelling power. I shall only speak particularly of the falls at Marcelena and Conquista, as I have not examined the other places. Marcelena and Conquista are some fifteen miles above Helena, in Karnes county, and about fifteen miles below San Antonio. In a space of two or three miles, the river has a fall of about 122 SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. thirty-two or thirty-three feet. There are three falls, with some rapids between. The first is at the Conquista crossing of the river. It is not a per- pendicular fall, but a gradual slope over a bed of rock for a hundred or a hundred and fifty yards, in which the water falls about ten feet. A dam of ten feet at the beginning of the fall would give a head of about twenty feet. There is plenty of suitable rock', of any desired size, for building such a dam at the spot, so that the expense would not be very great. CLIMATOLOGY OF WESTERN TEXAS. The seasons, as shown by the leafing and flowering of plants — as ob- served by Prof. C. G. Forshey, in Fayette County. > BOTANIC NAME. /Esculus Texanus.. Agrostis Stellata.... COMMON NAME. LEAFING. FLOWERING. 1858 i8s8 Dwarf Bucke\'e.. Wild Leek March 13... March 18. March 15. 1859 February 25. February 17. ■ i860 Avena Sativa Oats India Rubber.... Black Hickory... Hackberry Swamp Dogw'd. April 10 April I Feb'y 27 April 28 1858 1858 1858 1859 i860 Bumelia (?) Carya Orliviformis. Celtis Crassifolia.... Cornus Paniculata. June 10. May 20. April 23. March 10. M.ay 18, 25. ;hS Cornus Florida Crataegus Col Upl'nd Dog'wd. Thorn (red ber- . [ries March 6.... March 10... Feb'y 20 Feb'y....... 1859 i860 Draba Cuneifol White Draba February 15. February i. February 12. Jan'y and Feb. February 13. February 4. 1858 1859 i860 Houstonia Cerulea. Bluets January .... 1858 Inglaus Pecan 18S9 April 10-15 April 10, 15. SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. ^25 BOTANIC NAM K. i COMMON NAME. I LEAFING. Krigia Dandelion... Lupinus (?) Oxalis Stricta Poa (various kinds) 858 Primulse 859J 860 858 Phlox (?) S59 860 . I March Dandelion Purple Lupines.. Sheep Sorrel. Grasses Primroses .... February... March 2..., Winter March i February.., FLOWERING. April 15, 30. Feb. 28, Mar. 20. Mar. 15, May i. Mar. 20, Ap. 20. Mar. I, 20. 859 Pisum(?) jWildPea,purpl 858 Prunus Amer Wild Plum jMarch 859' Mar. 18, May 10. Feb. 28, Mar. 19. Mar. 31, May 2. Woods Phlox.... -.Mar. 12. I SFeb. 26, Mar. 19. March 7. March 5, 20. March i, 10. [Feb'y 15.... Feb. 12, 23. ol , I Feoruary... Feb. 18,29, 858 Persica vulg jPeach Tree Feb'y 20.... [Feb. li. Mar 859! i 860' .1 858 Quercus ObtusilobalPost Oak March 15 859! ! 86o| I ! 15. Quercus Nigra. Quercus Virens. Black Jack.. Live Oak. Quercus Palustris... Pin Oak..., Rubus Trivialis 'Dewberry 859 Secale cereale IRye 859|Taraxicum iDandelion 860 [dest , .... 859 Tillandsia Usneoi-'L'g Gray Moss 86o|Triticum /Estivum., 859[Triticum Compos... 858 Ulmus Amer Wheat. Linden American Elm. 859; 86o!Ulmus Alata 'Flat Limb. 8:;9 Vitis Teanua (?) IMustang Grape.. 860' i 859iVioia (?) jWild Violets 859|Viburnum prun 'Black Haw 860! I 859 Yucca (Mexicana?). Spanish Dagger. 860 I March 10... Feb'y 24.... March Feb'y 24. Feb'y "is." Feb'y 25. Feb'y 25. Feb'y 20... March 6... Feb'y 23... Feb'y 24... Feb'y 21... Feb'y 24.... Feb. 5, 20. Feb. 20. March 8. Feb. 24, Mar. 10 March 7. March 15. Feb 21. March i. 'Mar. 20, Ap. 10. Mar. 6, 25. March 13. Feb. 26, 28. March i, 27. March 10, 20. Feb. 26, 28. March 31. iSL-ir. 6, April 6. April 10. April 7. March 5. May ID. May 5. April ID, 25. February 20. March 6. February 23. Mar. 25, Ap. 20. Mar. 24, Ap. 4. February 21. Mar. 6, 10. March 23. March 6. March 2. 124 SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. STORMING OF THE ALAMO. From ''New York Worlds Santa Anna halted a day on the west bank of the Medina river, where he received accurate information as to the strength of the Americans in San Antonio. A sudden rain-storm and "norther" made the river impassable. Next day he resumed the march, General Mora in advance, with orders to seize the mission of Concepcion — a massive stone structure two miles below San Antonio — deemed by Santa Anna a more defensible stronghold than the Alamo. A cannon shot was fired when the head of the advancing column reached the cemetery. The town was not de- fended, and Colonel Mora was ordered to take position north and east of the Alamo, to prevent the escape of the garrison. This was late in Feb- ruary, 1836. Santa Anna led four thousand men, and awaited the coming of General Talza with two thousand more. A battalion crossed the San Antonio river and took possession of houses below the Alamo, in order to build a bridge across the river. Thirty men of two companies, sent the next day to make a reconnoisance, were killed. A light earth- work was thrown up above the Alamo. The firing from the fort, now invested, was ceaseless. SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. 1 25 An earth-work nearer the fort was constructed at night. On the third day of March General Talza arrived, and the plan of assault was defined and made known to the division commanders. On the 5th of March, scaling ladders were distributed. At three o'clock on the morning of the 6th, ever memorable in song and story, the battalion Mata- moras was moved to a point nearer the river and above the Alamo. They were supported by two thousand men under General Cos, this wing of the army being commanded by General Castrilion, General Talza leading that below the Alamo. Santa Anna spent the night in the eartli-work near the Alamo. The whole force was to move silently upon the fortress at the sound of the bugle, and were not to fire until in the trenches of the Texans. The sound of the bugle was heard at four o'clock. General Castrilion's division, after an hour's desperate fighting, repulses, and unheard-of losses, succeeded in effecting an en- trance into the upper part of the Alamo, in a sort of out-work, now a court-yard. The fighting had only begun. The windows and doors were barri- caded and guarded by bags of dirt heaped up as high as a man's shoulders, while on the roof were rows of bags of dirt behind which the Texans 126 SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. fous^ht as never men fousrht before, muzzle to muzzle — hand to hand Each Texan rifle-shot exhausted its force and spent itself in successive bodies of Mexicans packed together like a wall of flesh. Muskets and rifles were clubbed, and bowie- knives never wrought such fearful carnage. The ceaseless crash of firearms, the shouts of the defi- ant, desperate, beleaguered Texans, the shrieks of the dying, made the din infernal, and the scene indescribable in its sublime terrors. Each room in the building was the scene of a terrible struggle with fearless men driven to desperation, and conscious that escape was impossi- ble. They fought even when stricken down, and when dying still struggled, not with death, but to slay Mexicans. In the long room used as a hos- pital, the sick and wounded fired pistols and rifles from their pallets. A piece of artillery, supposed to be that which Crockett used during the siege, was shotted with grape and canister, and turned upon the helpless occupants of this apartment. After the explosion, the Mexicans entered and found the emaciated bodies of fourteen men, torn and rent, and blackened and bloody. Forty-two dead Mexicans lay at the doorway of this room. Bowie, whose name tells of his feartul knife and SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. 27 deeds, lay stark and stiff on a cot in the room. He was helpless and in bed when the place was invested, ten days before. Eleven Texans fired with terrible effect from the roof of the building, where they used three or four pieces, which they charged with nails and pieces of iron. Buerra gives his peculiar version of the story affecting the death of Travis and Crockett. These two were found living, yet exhausted by fighting, and lying among the dead. When Travis was discovered he gave gold to a Mexican, and while conversing with him Gen. Cos, with whom Travis had dealt most generously when San Antonio was captured by the Americans, appeared. Cos embraced Travis, and induced other officers to join him in asking Santa Anna to spare Travis' life. The President-General sternly refused. Then Crockett, from among the dead, stood up utterly exhausted by weary, sleepless days and nights, and by five hours' constant fighting. Santa Anna was enraged beyond measure that his orders were not executed. He directed the soldiers near him to fire on the two Texans. Travis was shot first in the back. He folded his arms across his breast, and stood stiffly erect till a bullet pierced his neck. He fell upon his face, while Crockett's body was riddled 128 SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. with bullets. The corpses of two thousand Mexi- cans were buried; those of the dead Americans were gathered and burned, a holocaust whose fires lighted the way to the freedom of Texas. THE CITY OF SAN ANTONIO. Froui ^^San Anto7iio Herald'^ Any one who will reflect upon the resources of the region that is now, and that which may be made tributary to San Antonio, cannot but be convinced of the great future that awaits it, pro- vided the people are alive to the necessities required. It possesses an area of surrounding country capable of ministering to and supplying the wants of a large population. The food-producing capacity of Western Texas is superior for the growth of wheat, barley, oats, corn, and all kinds of vegetables, as well as the varieties of semi-tropical fruits and sugar. Of animal food there is a superabundance, of the best character and at the lowest prices. Cattle and sheep swarm over our prairies in vast numbers, and will ever exist to supply the markets of the constantly increasing people. Horses, mules, oxen, and swine exist in large numbers \ and rap- idly as population may increase in our great pas- toral region, these products must increase in a SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. 1 29 Still vaster proportion. These are articles of prime necessity in supporting the dense population of a city. But having provided for food, there are other wants not less essential, — clothing. The principal materials of which to make clothing are wool, cotton, linen, and leather ; now we all know that these are severally produced in Western Texas, in and adjacent to San Antonio and to the food- producing regions — the best in quality, and the cheapest in price. In addition to these advant- ages, great and vast as they are, our city possesses, in her river, a water power for driving machinery unsurpassed by any other locality in the United States. And yet manufactures have yet to be devel- oped in our midst, and upon their establishment, in reality, depends our great future. It is almost an act of supererogation to enumerate among the requisites for a high state of civiliza- tion an inexhaustible supply of building material, in which we are rich indeed. Possessing in such superabundance all the essential requisites for a large and manufacturing community, what can prevent its establishment and growth among us? For in addition we have a world-renowned climate, balmy and healthful. We lack, confessedly, popu- 9 l^O SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. lation and capital. Population we are beginning to receive, and, with the increase of railroads, doubtless capital will flow in upon us. Manufac- tures, heretofore, have not been established because of the difficulty of transportation, want of markets, etc. We have one railroad, whose existence here we hail as the harbinger of others; and we earn- estly hope that our city will now press forward her commercial interests to a larger extent, and at the same time successfully establish the manufacturing interests, the raw material of which we have in such profusion all around us. There is no antag- onism between commerce and the mechanic arts — there could be none ; they are the offspring of industry and intelligence, and are alike dependent on each other for prosperity. San Antonio is remarkable for its location ; it is a salient point in a military, as well as in a commercial point of view. Its prosperity hitherto has arisen from these two combinations, and it requires but the introduction and establishment of the third inter- est, the cheap power which nature has lavished upon us unsparingly, to place us beyond all those contingencies that sometimes befall com- mercial cities, and put our growth and prosper- ity beyond all peradventure. Elevated as she SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. I3I is above the malarial region of the coast range, about one hundred and forty miles from shipping, railroads already bring us into rapid communica- tion with the several shipping ports on the Gulf, and those communications, likely to increase in number from year to year, make our queen city one of the most favored spots upon the wide earth. Nowhere else are these advantages concentrated in a single city. We are so favorably situated, that a strict adherence to the rules of economy admits of the union of commerce and manufactures, and will aid them to develop in equally rapid progress. We assume this result, because it is an axiom of political economy that the first essential work of any productive people is markets whereat to dis- pose of their products ; and to have markets you must have population — to command permanent population, you must have manufactures. With manufactures and population, value is added to lands and property of every kind, and be- comes, of course, one of the principal sources and causes of wealth. And why? Because it creates a market by causing a demand for property and products, enhancing their price and exchange- able value, rewards the producer for his industry, and encourages and increases industry and pro- 132 SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. duction. Again, commerce frequently changes from one city to another — manufactures do not. Hence it is to our interest to invite population among us by using every exertion to establish manufactories for cotton, wool, leather, and of linen, so that we can acquire the necessary popu- lation to create a market for our food production, and our raw material for manufactures, of which the cereals would become a very prominent export, whether Galveston or New Orleans becomes the great grain mart of the Gulf. We earnestly en- treat our people to give the subject of manufactures their serious consideration ; certainly no people under heaven have been more bountifully endowed than the people of Western Texas, and especially those of San Antonio. From '■^ Baker' s Scrap Book.''^ ANECDOTE OF GENERAL HOUSTON. In the year i860, while Houston was Governor of Texas, an expedition was fitted out for frontier protection. In the purchase of medical supplies the Governor had given strict orders that no liquor should be included, under penalty of his serious displeasure. In the requisition for medical stores made by Dr. T., surgeon of the regiment, SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. 1 33 were included Spts. Vini Gallici, bottles 24. This was duly furnished with the other articles, and the bill was taken to General Houston for his approval. The old gentleman settled his spectacles upon his nose, and, gravely putting his eagle quill pen behind his ear, read the bill through slowly and carefully until he came, to the item in question, when he turned to the druggist and said, "Mr. B., what is this Spts. Vini Gallici?" "That, Gen- eral, is brandy." "Ah, yes; and do you know that I have given positive orders that no liquor should be furnished for this expedition ?" "No, General, I was not aware of it!" The General rang his bell. "Call Dr. T." The doctor was summoned. "Dr. T., what is this Spts. Vini Gallici for?" "That, Governor, is for snake bites." Appealing to the druggist, the Governor continued, "Mr. B., is Spts. Vini Gallici good for snake bites ! " " Yes, sir, it is so considered." "Yes," replied General Houston, in slow and measured tones, "and there is Dr. T., who would cheerfully consent to be bitten by a rattlesnake every morning before breakfast, so as to obtain a drink of this Spts. Vini Gallici." Having thus delivered himself, he approved the account. 134 SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. SAM Houston's exile — explained after many YEARS. THE MYSTERY MADE CLEAR IN A LETTER FROM THE REV. DR. SAMSON, EX-PRESIDENT OF THE COLUMBIAN UNIVER- SITY, AND GENERAL HOUSTON'S OLD PASTOR — WHY HE ABANDONED HIS WIFE, HIS OFFICE, AND CIVILIZATION. To the Editor of the Tribune. Sir: The St. Louis Globe-Democrat published some weeks since a private letter of President Jackson to General Sam Houston, dated Washing- ton, D. C, June 21, 1829, preserved by an old Texan, a former friend of Houston's, which has more than a personal history attached to it. President Jackson recalls his delightful meeting with his friend one year before, when, as Gover- nor of Tennessee, he was *' about to be united to a beautiful young lady of accomplished manners and of respectable connections." As to his sudden determination to " settle with the Indians and become a savage," he exclaims: ''Surely it is a dream," and he hints that though now addressed at the Cherokee Agency, Territory of Arkansas, his intention is to found in Texas a Southwestern Empire, reviving thus a scheme of other men in earlier times. The Globe-T)e?nocrat alludes to Houston's act, SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS, 1 35 which called out this letter from his old friend, as " one of the most singular and utterly unexplained acts ever connected with General Houston or any- other great historical character." As the true explanation has since his death been made known by his widow to those specially intrusted with the preparation of his memoirs, the publication of which is perhaps now indefinitely postponed, justice to truth and to Houston's memory as a model of true loyalty seems to demand the follow- ing statement of the proofs of that loyalty : As pastor of Senator Houston from 1845 ^^ 1861, intimate with all his private thoughts as well as his public life, the writer, when requested to contribute to the proposed memoir, was made acquainted with the fact of his marriage wound — keener and more lasting than that of the poisoned Indian arrow, whose festering he used sometimes to show to his friends. The attestation of his loyalty in all other relations, heard often from his own lips and read in unmistakable acts, is in per- fect accord with the authentic facts of history, which any reader can verify even in brief encyclo- paedia notices. There is not a particle of evidence in any preserved record which indicates a laint of disloyalty in any relation. lT,b SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. Born in Virginia in 1793, left an orphan in boyhood, Sam Houston went with his mother to Tennessee, where he supported her by his own industry, thus early learning family loyalty. In 18 1 3, at the age of twenty, he enlisted under General Jackson in the Creek war, and, for his repeated deeds of gallantry, he so gained the esteem of Jackson, that he urged him to remain permanently in the army. Resigning, however, and studying law in Nashville, he rose from oftice to office, and in 1823, at the age of thirty, he was elected to Congress, and then again, in 1827, was elected Governor of Tennessee. Up to this time, Houston was unmarried. Uni- versally admired, and urged by associates to form an alliance which seemed essential to his station, a young lady of beauty and accomplishments was commended to him by family influence. His pro- posal of marriage was accepted, and, late in 1828, the marriage ceremony was performed with unusual pomp. The next day Houston resigned his office, crossed the Mississippi into Arkansas, and, Decem- ber II, 1828, wrote from the agency of his old Cherokee acquaintances, the letter to President Jackson which called forth his letter of January 21, 1829. SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. 1 37 No one of Houston's companions knew till his death the cause of his new course, which his best friends, like Jackson, regarded as partial insanity ; no one but his widow could reveal it, and she only through a sense of conjugal and Christian duty. That cause was the highest test of loyalty of which any man could be capable. On the eve of marriage. Governor Houston observed a tremor in the voice and in the hand of his bride, when the vow of undivided attachment was pronounced, which convinced him some secret had not been revealed to him. Before retiring, he frankly told her of his suspicion, asked a frank confession, and pledged her that it should not work her injury.* His frankness and firmness led to the confession that her affections had been given and pledged to another before their meeting, and that filial duty had prompted her acceptance of his proffer. Houston retired to his own cot, next day resigned his position, allowed the entire fault to appear to be his, permitted and encouraged her application for a divorce on the plea of desertion, and his *A11 writers who have mentioned the nnysterious and sudden departure of Gen. Houston before Dr. Sampson, have spoken of some considerable time, some months, passed with his wife. 138 SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. bride was married to the man of her former affec- tion. Many irregularities, rumors of course, were charged on this man who had really sacrificed everything to save one who had erred only in mistaken duty ; but no charge of domestic infidel- ity could be true in a man who denied it to the estimable lady who afterwards became his wife. The suggestion of ambitious designs, naturally assumed as true by Jackson, was disproved by facts known to history. One year after that letter was written, Houston was the chosen representa- tive of the Cherokees at Washington. It was on a visit to Texas a year or two later that Houston was drawn into Texan affairs. The large Connec- ticut colony induced to go into Texas in 1820 had been, in violation of Santa Anna's promises, in 1830, incorporated into the neighboring Mexican province of Coahuila, and thus subjected to Mexi- can law and government. These Americans in Texas, with loyal intent, thereupon organized a distinct province, and they elected Houston as their delegate to the Convention that had been called to revise the Mexican Constitution, which, in 1824, had borrowed largely from that of the United States. SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. 1 39 The colonists had increased in number to 20,000 when Houston became their delegate. The crafty Santa Anna, after repeated efforts for peace, did not begin hostilities until 1835. Though superior in ability, Houston did not become commander- in-chief till the post was resigned by Colonel S. F. Austin, the son of the first colonist, in the autumn of 1835. Houston's clemency to Santa Anna after the massacres he had perpetrated was loyalty to the rules of war. During the eight years, from 1837 to 1845, ^^ Texan independence, Houston was faithful to every obligation of life. It was during this period that he obtained a divorce from the Legislature of the State of which he was President, and married one of the most accomplished and devout of Chris- tian women, who, with a large family of children, survives him. When, at last, annexation could be effected, instead of aiming at independent empire, Houston promoted to the utmost the annexation of the State of which he had been the father. In Washington, as Senator from 1845 ^^ 1861, no truer statesman than Sam Houston sat in the Capitol. In social relations, no sign of vice ap- peared; for he was of the Roman stamp, so honored recently by the Tribune as a type of the Republi- I40 SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. can leaders of France. Though unable to bring his family to the Capital, they were always in his thought. He spent Sunday afternoon in writing to them ; and he ever spoke in all company of the fact that to his wife he was indebted for his chief honor and happiness. From his coming to Washington, his seat was never vacant in the place of worship ; he often referred to a* discourse on the words, ''Better is he that ruleth his own spirit than he that taketh a city," as the religious crisis of his life; he rose above the two-fold conviction which restrained most public men from a public profession of Chris- tian faith, namely, the suspicion of hypocrisy and of sectarianism, and was baptized when at the very height of his political expectations. When secession and the war following it came, Sam Houston was almost alone in opposing it, in open words and in direct acts. When in varied companies the remark was dropped that Lincoln would not be peaceably inaugurated, Houston firmly said : *' The man that attempts to prevent it shall walk over my dead body!" True to his word, when on the day of inauguration videttes were at every street corner where the procession was to pass, close up to the left side of the carriage SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. I4I in which Lincohi sat with Buchanan on his right, the tall form of Houston, mounted and armed, was seen throughout the whole route, pressing so closely up to the wheels that no man could have passed between. Such a record should set aside any suspicion that Houston was not in every relation a model of loyalty. Retiring to the bosom of his family, he lived two years in yet another political exile ; but adored in his family, and not "an alien from the commonwealth of the redeemed." George W. Samson. New York, November 5, 1880. Froin Texas Scrap Book. THE MASSACRE OF FANNIN. BY ONE who escaped. In March, 1836, Colonel J. W. Fannin, with between five and six hundred men, occupied the town of Goliad on the San Antonio river. While there, he detached Captain King with a small company of men, to occupy the old mission of Refugio, about twenty-five miles distant. King, after taking possession of the fortress, found him- self threatened by a large force of Mexicans, and sent an express to Fannin for aid. Accordingly, 142 SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. Colonel Ward, with one hundred and twenty-live men, were sent to his relief. Having arrived at Refugio, King insisted upon taking command of the whole force, but the men declared themselves in favor of serving under Colonel Ward, who was lieutenant-colonel of the regiment. Captain King then withdrew, with his original company of twenty-eight, men, and they were almost immedi- ately afterward surprised and killed ; the Mexican forces then attacked Ward and his men in the mission, and after a sanguinary fight, which lasted nearly all day, were repulsed with heavy loss. Meantime, orders were received from Colonel Fannin to join him and his command at Victoria, and the line of march for that place was taken up at night. But Fannin and his men, having set out for Victoria, were intercepted, and after a bloody battle were captured and taken back to Goliad. Ward and his detachments, when they arrived at Victoria, instead of finding their coun- trymen, found the place occupied by a large force of Mexicans, and retreated ; but next day were surrounded and taken prisoners by the enemy under command of General Urrea. They were then taken to Goliad, where they found their brave fellow-captives, numbering in all four hundred and SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. 1 43 eighty men. On the morning of the 27th of March, in defiance of the terms of surrender, which were that they should be held honorably as prisoners of war until exchanged, the whole com- pany of Texans were marshaled in line and counted into four divisions of one hundred and twenty men each. Each division was then placed in charge of a strong guard, and ordered to march in different directions from the fort, for what pur- pose the prisoners could only guess. "When about half a mile from the fort," says our informant, "we were ordered to halt; the guard was then halted, and ordered by the captain to face to the right, and then, almost instantly, to fire. The horrible order was promptly complied with, and nearly all of our brave boys fell in death. A few, myself among the number, made a desperate run for life, and by concealing ourselves in the grass and reeds, finally got away. The men having been shot, the officers, who had been reserved until the last, met the same tragic fate. Colonel Ward, having refused to kneel, was shot as he stood ; and Colonel Fannin, having left his effects, together with his dying request, with the officer in command, calmly seated himself in a chair, and awaited his death. Of the whole number who 144 SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. were marched out for slaughter on that memorable Sunday, fifty-five only escaped." From the Official Report of General H. D. Mc- Leod. COMANCHE FIGHT AT SAN ANTONIO. On the Tpth day of March, 1840, sixty-five Comanches, including warriors, women, and children, came, by previous appointment, to San Antonio to treat for peace. The meeting had been agreed upon a month before, and the Indians had promised to bring in thirteen white persons, whom they held as hostages. They, however, brought but one, a daughter of Mr. Lockhart. Twelve chiefs, leaders of the deputation, were met by our commissioners. Colonel W. G. Cooke and General H. D. McLeod, in the Government House, as it was called, and the question was at once put to them, " Where are the prisoners you were to bring?" Mukwarrah, the chief who had made the promise at the former talk, replied, ''We have brought the only one we had." This was known to be false, from the girl's statement. She said that she had seen several prisoners at the camp a few days before, and that the intention was to get a high ransom for her, and then for each of SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. 1 45 the others, bringing them one by one. A pause ensued, after which the chief asked, '' How do you like my answer ? ' ' No reply was made, but an order was sent to a company of soldiers to advance into the room. Meantime, the terms were explained to the chief, which would have been agreed to in case they had complied with their engagements. The soldiers, under Captain Howard, entered the room, the chiefs were told they were prisoners until they sent for and brought in the rest of the white cap- tives. As the commissioners were retiring from the room, one of the chiefs attempted to escape by leaping past the sentinel, who, in attempting to prevent him, was stabbed by the Indian. Captain Howard was also severely wounded in a similar manner. The rest of the braves drew their bows and arrows and knives, and made a general attack. The soldiers fired and killed the twelve chiefs. The warriors in the yard fought with desperation, but were soon repulsed by Captain Read's com- pany. A portion of them retreated across the river, but were pursued, and finally all killed. The Indian women fought desperately, and several of them were killed. The loss of the Indians was thirty-two chiefs and warriors, three women, and 10 146 SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. two children ; twenty-seven women and children, and two old men, were made prisoners. Our loss was seven killed and eight wounded. Fro?n ^^ Field' s Scrap Book.'' THE BABE OF THE ALAMO. The beautiful remarks below are extracted from speeches delivered in the House of Representatives of Texas, on a bill proposing a donation to the daughter of Almiran Dickenson, one of the mar- tyrs who fell at the Alamo in the beginning of the Texas revolution : History will never record a nobler deed, a more daring stand, a purer, self-sacrificing devotion to the interests and liberties of their adopted country, than the fight and fall of Travis, Bowie, Crockett, and their gallant compatriots. One hundred and fifty men were arrayed against thousands of Mexi- cans under Santa Anna, the then President of Mexico, who styled himself the second Napoleon ; and heroically did they wield the battle-blade, till the last man of that devoted band measured his length upon the earth. No quarter was asked or given ; none were left to tell the tale but the wife of Dickenson and her infant daughter. How heart-sickening to this woman must have been that conflict, that massacre ! SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. 1 47 Hod. Guy Bryan said: ''I intended, Mr. Speaker, to be silent on this occasion ; but silence would now be a reproach, when to speak is a duty. No one has raised his voice in behalf of this orphan child ; several have spoken against her claims. I rise, sir, in behalf of no common cause. Liberty was its foundation, heroism and martyr- dom consecrated it. I speak for the orphan child of the Alamo. No orphan children of fallen patriots can send a similar petition to this House — none save her can say, ' I am the child of the Alamo.' Well do I remember the consternation which spread throughout the land when the sad tidings reached our ears that the Alamo had fallen ! It was here that a gallant few, the brav- est of the brave, threw themselves betwixt the enemy and the settlements, determined not to sur- render nor retreat. They redeemed their pledge with the forfeit of their lives — they fell, the chosen sacrifice to Texan freedom ! Texas, unapprised of the approach of the invaders, was sleeping in fancied security, when the guns of the Alamo first announced that the Attila of the South was near. Infuriated at the resistance of Travis and his noble band, he marshaled his whole army beneath the walls, and rolled wave after wave of his hosts 148 SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. against those battlements of freedom. In vain he strove — the Flag of Liberty, the Lone Star of Texas, still streamed out upon the breeze, and floated proudly from the outer wall. Maddened and persistent, he reared his batteries, and, after days of furious bombardment, and repeated as- saults, he took a blackened and ruined mass — the blood-stained, walls of the Alamo. The noble, the martyred spirits of its gallant defenders, had taken their flight to another fortress, not made with hands. But for this stand at the Alamo, Texas would have been desolated to the Sabine. Sir, I ask this pittance ; and for whom ? For the only living witness, save the mother, of this awful tragedy; this bloodiest picture in the book of time; this bravest act that ever swelled the annals of any country. Grant the boon ! She claims it as the Christian child of the Alamo — baptized in the blood of a Travis, a Bowie, a Crockett, and a Bonham. To turn her away would be a shame ! Give her what she asks, that she may be educated and become a worthy child of the State ; that she may take that position in society to which she is entitled by the illustrious name of her martyred father — illustrious because he fell in the Alamo." Hon. J. C. Wilson said: "The student of SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. 1 49 Grecian history, in every age, in every land, has felt his bosom glow with a noble fire while reading of Leonidas and the three hundred who fell with him at Thermopylae ; but when the Alamo fell, a nobler than Leonidas, a more devoted band than the Spartans, sank amid its ruins. They shed their blood for us ; they poured out their lives as water for the liberties of Texas; and they left us of that bloody, yet glorious conflict, one sole memento — one frail, perishable keepsake — the child whose petition for assistance is now before us. Shall we turn her away? Shall we say, 'Though your father served the State in his life; though he fell in the ranks of those men whose names history shall chronicle ajid nations shall delight to honor; though you alone, of all the children of Texas, witnessed that direful scene, whose bare contemplation makes the stout heart quail; though the credit and honor of Texas are alike concerned in taking care of your childhood and watching over your youth, in providing for your happiness and respectability; though you, the babe of the Alamo, will be an object of interest to all who may visit our State in after years, when the pen of the historian shall have recorded your connection with the early glories and sufferings of 150 SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. our now happy land — yet for all this, we will suffer you to grow up in uncultured wildness, in baneful ignorance, perchance in vice, rather than make this pitiful appropriation to enable you to render yourself capable of occupying that position in society to which you are in a peculiar degree entitled by the strange and thrilling circumstances surrounding your life.' Sir, I trust such an act may not mar the history of Texas. It is related of Napoleon that, when an officer whom he loved was wounded, and, from the narrowness of the defile in which the conflict raged, was in imminent danger of being crushed to death by the feet of contending friends and foes, while the emperor looked on in deep anxiety for his fate, a female, an humble follower of the army, with a babe on one arm, pressed through the melee to the wounded man, and, passing her other arm around him, con- veyed him to a place of comparative safety near the emperor ; but just as she turned away from the object of her daring and benevolent solicitude, a ball struck her dead at the feet of Napoleon. He, taking the motherless babe in his arms, called a grenadier, saying, ' Bear this child to the rear, and see that it is well attended to, for henceforth it is the child of the empire.' Mr. Speaker, the child SAN ANTONIO AND ENVIRONS. I5I of the Alamo is the child of the State ^ and we can- not treat her with neglect without entailing ever- lasting disgrace upon Texas." EPITAPH OF THE TEXAN DEAD. BY B. H. DAVIS. No slab of pallid marble, With white and ghostly head, Tells the wanderers in our vale The virtues of our dead. The wild-flowers be their tombstone, And dewdrops pure and bright. Their epitaph, the angels wrote In the stillness of the night. Austin. INDEX PAGE. Arnold, Hendrick ^3 Austin, Col. W. T 23 Alley, Capt 29 Army Dispensed 3^ Alamo, Second Mission in Texas 3" " , Foundation Laid 37 " , Taking of. 40 " , Surrounded by Mexicans 45 " , Heroic Defence of 47 " , Fall of 47 " , Ashes of its Heroes Collected 49 " , Hymn of 5^ " , Persons slaughtered at 59 " , Signification of Word 7^ " , Ground Plan of ^ ^3 «' , Storming of ^^4 " , Battle Monumen' of 5^ " , Victims of : 59 " , Babe of the ^6 Aid Sought by Bonham ? • • • 44 Appeal of Travis 39 Almonte, Gen 45 Account of Battle Between Mexicans and Texans 72 (153) 154 INDEX. FAGE. Arms Captured by Texans 72 Architecture of San Juan. , 77 Acceptance of Bids for Quartermaster's Depot 93 Area of Quartermaster's Depot 94 Adaptability of San Antonio for Manufactures no Anecdote of Gen. Houston 132 Burleson, Gen 22, 30, 3 1 Breese, Capt 24 Bodies of Dead Patriots Burned by Order of Santa Anna. 36 Bonham, J. B . . . ." 44 Bowie, Col,, Butchered 47, 146, 148 Battle Monument Described 56 Battle Between Texans and Mexicans 72 " at Concepcione 75 Baths, Floating 12 Buenstchad y Obsons 70 Belknap, W. W 91 Braden & Co 93 Bishop Elliott. 103 " Pellicier 102 " of Monterey 38 Baptist Church 104 Bryan, Hon. Guy, Speech of 147 Babe of the Alamo 146 Caballero, Description of. 16 Canary Islands, Emigrants from 19 Conflicts in San Antonio 21 Comanche Attack on San Antonio 21 Comanche Fight at San Antonio 144 Cooke, Capt 23, 24 INDEX. J 55 PAGE. Cooke, Col. W. G I44 Crane, Capt 27, 28 Cos, Gen 30, 31,44 Convict Mexican Soldiers 30 Commissioners Appointed 30 Capitulation of Mexicans 31 Council of War 43 ' ■ " Called by Santa Anna 44 Castrillon, Gen 44 Crockett, Col., His Fall 46, 146, 148 Character of Old Missions 66 Converts, Manner of Governing 66 Church, Recruits for 69 Capture of Arms by Texans 72 Concepcione, Walls of. 74 " , Service in 74 " , Matron of 74 , Battle at 75 Castelo, Don Domingo 75 Chapel in San Jose 77 Congress Appropriates for Quartermaster's Depot 91 Custom House at Goliad 80 Cost of Quai-ter master's Depot 93 Completion of Quartermaster's Depot 94 Card, Brev. Brig. Gen. B, C 94 Contents of Tank in Quartermaster's Depot 97 Cisterns, Contents of in " " 97 Churches of San Antonio loi Cathedral of San Fernando 102 Catholic Church, German 102 156 INDEX. PAGE. Convent, Ursuline 104 Climate of San Antonio 1 1 1 Climatology of Western Texas 122 City of San Antonio 128 Description of San Antonio 9 " " " River 1 1 " " Hackal 17 " " Battle Monument 56 " " Concepcione 72 " " San Jose 75 Distance of San Antonio from Gulf of Mexico 10 " " " " Mexican Border 10 Deaf Smith 22, 23, 26 Dickinson, Capt 25 Dickenson, Almiran 146 Duncan, Capt ... 29 Departure of Gen. Cos 31 Dispersion of Texan Army 32 Desperate Encounter in the Alamo 40 Dickerson, Mrs 47 Donation of Land Offered to United States by Judge Pas- chal, for Quartermaster's Depot 87 Donation of Land Offered to United States by Authorities of San Antonio, for Quartermaster's Depot 87 Donation recommended to Department Commander. ... 88 Donation Not Accepted . = 90 Davis, G. W., Capt. 14th Infantry 93 Darn, Col. W. H 93 Demand for Goods in San Antonio ill Emigrants to San Antonio. 19 INDEX. 157 PAGE. English, Capt 24, 28, 29 Edwards, Capt 24 Enemy Driven Back from Walls of Alamo 45 Espada, San Francisco de 78 Establishment of Post Office at San Antonio 85 Enclosure of Quartermaster's Depot 98 Elliott, Bishop of San Antonio 103 Exile of Gen. Houston 1 34 Epitaph of the Texan Dead 151 Floating Baths 12 First Emigrants to San Antonio 19 Franks, Col. Midland 23 Flag of Truce 30 " " Victory over Bexar 31 Foundation of the Alamo Laid 37 Fannin, Col 42 " " , Departure for Goliad 43 " " , Shot at Goliad 81 " " , Massacre of. 141 Fall of the Alamo 47 Franciscan Monks, Their Works 65 " Friars 69 First Mission, Location of 71 Freeman, W. R ico Gulf of Mexico, Distance from San Antonio 10 Guadalupe River 1 1 Grant, Col. James 23 Gill, Lieut ... 29 Garza House 29 Garrison of Alamo Summoned to Surrender 38 I5S INDEX. PAGE. Goliad, or La Bahia, Mission of. 80 " , New Town of 80 " , Custom House at 80 Gallagher, Peter 84 Ground Plan of Alamo I13 Government of Converts 66 Hackal, Description of ■ 17 Holmes 22 Houston, Address to the Army 49 " , Anecdote of 132 " , Exile of 134 Hymn of the Alamo 50 Hotel des Invalides 80 Harris, Rev. B 104, 106 Howard, Capt 145 Invalides, Hotel des 80 Indians, Converted 37 Inscription on Battle Monument T 52 Jack, Col 22 Johnson, Col. Frank W 23, 24, 31, 32 " Father 70 Jose, San, Removal of 70 " " , Purchase of 75 " " , Mission of 75 " " , Description of. 75 " " , Size of. 77 Juan, San de Concepcione, Architecture of. 77 " " , Mexicans About It 78 King of Spain Transfers Land to Indians 67 King, Z., and Son 100 INDEX. 159 PAGE. King, Capt 141, 142 Karnes, Capt 27, 28 Laying out of San Antonio 12 Lopez, Father 38 Legal Transfer of Mission Lands ,. 66 Location of First Mission 71 Labor In and About San Antonio 1 10 Lockhart 144 Mexican Border, Distance from San Antonio. 10 Mexicans Disputing the Ground 29 " Make a Division 29 " Retreat to the Alamo 30 " About San Juan de Concepcione 78 " , Number Killed 40 Medina River 1 1 Mixture of Races in San Antonio 14 Maverick 22, 23 Morfts, Major 23 Milam, Col, Benj, R 24 " , Killed 28 " " " , Poem to 32 McDonald, Lieut. Wm 27 Monterey, Bishop of. ^S Monument, Battle, Inscription on 52 " " Description of 56 Missions, the Old 64 " , the Character of 66 " Lands, Manner of Taking Possession of 66 " Alamo 70 " , Concepcione, Description of . . . . 72 l6o INDEX. PAGE. Missions, San Jose '75 " San Juan de Concepcione 77 " San Francisco de Espada 78 " La Bahia, or Goliad 80 Manner of Taking Possession of Mission Lands. 66 Matron in Charge of Concepcione 74 Morgil, Father Antonio. , 69, 75 Mails to and from San Antonio 86 Military Centre of Texas, San Antonio 87 " Depot Authorized by Secretary of War 88 Murder of Col. Fannin at Goliad 80 Menger House 85 Money for Q. M. Depot Covered into Treasury 90 Meigs, M. G., Q. M. Gen. U. S. A 93 Montgomery, Rev. W. R 103 Methodist Church 104 " " South 104 Massacre of Fannin 141 Mukwarrah 144 Mcl^eod, Gen. H. D 14-1 Neill, Capt. J. C 24 Navarro, Antonio 28 Names of Slaughtered at Alamo 59 " " Postmasters at San Antonio 85 New Town of Goliad. 80 Old Missions 64 Oliver, S. A loi Organ of St. Marks 104 Poem, " Whatever Fruits," etc lo " to Milam 32 INDEX. l6l FAGE. Poem, " San Antonio My Country." 50 " " Stern Impress of Time.''. 64 •' San Marcos River 114 " , Epitaph on the Texan Dead 151 Plaza, Spanish Name of 19 " Cleared 31 Patton, Capt 24 Peacock, Capt 24 Priests' House 29 Prisoners of War ;^^ Persons Slaughtered at Alamo 59 Purchase of San Jose 75 Post-Office Established 85 " " Revenue of 85 " " Money-orders 85 Postmasters Since Establishment of 85 Paschal, Judge, Donation to United States 87 Proposals for Erection of Q. M. Depot Invited 92 " " '• " Rejected 92 " " " " Accepted 93 Plans for Q. M. Depot Forwarded 92 Perry, A. G 93 Pellicier, Bishop 102 Presbyterian Church 104 Ouartermaster's Depot, Authority to Erect SS " " , Instructions as to 91 " " , Donation for 91 " " , Proposals Invited 92 « " , Cost of 93 -' " Completed 93 II l62 INDEX. PAGK. Quartermaster's Depot, Location of 94 " " , Area of 94 " " , Description of. 94 " " , Water-works of. 96 " " , Tower of. 97 '' " , Contents of Tank 97 " " , " Cisterns 97 " " , Water-pipes to 98 River San Antonio, Description of 1 1, 109 River San Marcos Poem 114 Races, Mixture of in San Antonio . 14 Ramney, Gen 45 Recruits for the Church. 69 Ribera, Gen 71 Ruin of San Francisco de Espada 78 Revenue of Post-Office 85 Rejection of Proposals for Quartermaster's Depot. 92 Richardson, Rev. W. R 103 Reade, Capt 145 San Antonio, Description of 9 " , Distance from Gulf of Mexico 9 " , Laying Out of 12 " , How it Looks to Travelers 12 " , Settlement of 12 '* , Named in Honor of 12 " , Conflict in 21 " , Attacked by Comanches 21 " , Captured by Texans 21 " , Attacked by Vasquez ^2 ♦* , Captured by Gen. Wall j j INDEX. 163 PAGE. San Antonio, My Country — Poem 50 , Post-Office 84 " , Mails to and from 86 " , Quartermaster's Depot at 86 " , Military Centre of Texas 87 " , Water-works 99 " " , Length of Pipes 100 " , Pes Churches loi " , Its Water Power . 106 " River 109 '• , Adapted to Manufactures ...... no " , Climate of in " , Demand for Goods There in ♦• , City of 1 28 " , Comanclie Fight in 144 " Shine 'em Up." 16 Smith, John W 22, Smith, Capt 43 San Pedro Springs 12 Sommerville, Lieut 22 Springs, San Pedro 12 Swisher, Capt 24, 29 Santa Anna 36, 38, 40, 41, 42, 45, 46, 48, 146 Surrender Demanded by Santa Anna 41 Skirmish Between Texans and Mexicans 42 Sesma, Gen 43, 45 Sally by the Texans 44 Scaling-ladders 45 Signilication of Alamo 70 San Fernando Cathedral 7c. 1C2 lfi4 INDEX. TAGH. San Jose, Title to 75 " , Description of 76 '* , Size of 77 '• , Chapel in 77 San Juan de Concepcione, in 74 '• '• ""• , Service of 77 " •' " , Architecture in 77 " " " , Mexicans About it 78 San Francisco de Espada, Mission of 78 Sites Selected for Mission 71 St. Mary's English Church 102 St. Mark's Episcopal " 103 " " " Organ 104 Schools, Free 106 Storming of the Alamo 1 24 Settlement of San Antonio, 1716 19 Spoils of the Victor * 31 Stern Impress of Time — rPoem 64 Speech of Hon. J. C. Wilson 148 " " Guy Bryan , 147 Texans Strengthen Their Works 26 " Rifles 27 " In Command of Enemy's Works , . . . 29 " Losses 30 " Dead, Epitaph of — Poem 151 " Make a Sally 44 Terms of Capitulation 31 Travis, Col. Wm. B., His Small Force ^8 " " , His Appeal 39 " " , Writes to Fannin 42 INDEX. 165 PAGE. Travis, Col. Wm. B., His Determination 43 , His Fall 46,146,148 " " , "Take Care of My Little Boy.".. 44 Terrible Struggle 40 " Take Care of My Little Boy." 44 Threats of Santa Anna 46 Title of San Jose 75 Title, Valid, to Site for Quartermaster's Depot 90 Tank, Quartermaster's Depot 97 Texas, Western, Climatology of 122 Tower of Quartermaster's Depot 97 Ugartachea, Gen 30 United States Quartermaster's Depot 86 Ursuline Convent 104 Urrea, Gen 142 Veramandi, House of 22 Vuavis, Lieut 23 Vasquez, Gen,, Marched on San Antonio 33 Valero, Marquis de ^7 Victims of the Alamo 59 Valid Title to Quartermaster's Depot Site 90 Ward, Capt 24 " , Col 142 Wall, Gen., Took San Antonio 2>^ '' , Commg to San Antonio iio War, Council of, Called by Santa Anna 40, 43, 44 Water-works of Quartermaster's Depot 96 Water-pipes to " " 98 Water-works of San Antonio 99 Water-power " 106 l66 INDEX. PAGE. Western Texas, Climatology of 122 Wilson, Hon. J. C, Speech of 148 Ximenes, Battalion of 41 York, Capt 24 Zambrano Row 29 [ LIBRARY OF CONGRESS I. 014 649 377 4 \\