In ---n.-.^ ^ , f> THE (i( PITCHEN GARDENER'S INSTRUCTOR,! CONTAINING A CATALOGUE OF GARDEN AND HERB SEED, ■WITH PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS UNDER EACH HEAD FOR THE CTJtTtVATIOtJ O? <1^ I 4 CULINARY A^EGETABLES AND HERBS. | WITH A CALENDAR, SHOWING THE AVORK NECESSARY TO BE DONE IN A KITCHEN GARDEN EVERY MONTH THROTJGHCUT THE SEASON. A I. SO, DIRECTIONS FOR FORCING OR FORWARDING VEGETABLES OUT OF THE ORDINARY SEASON. THE WHOLE ADAPTED TO THE CLIMATE OF THIS UNITED STATES A NEW AVm IirPROVED EniTION. S B F li-Y By THOMAS BRIDGEMAN, Garilciier, Seedsman, and Florist. 85 NEW-YORK Vt> FOR SALE BY THE AUTHOR, BROADWAY, CORNER OF EIGHTEENTH ST. '%K Gflor?e C. Thorhtirn, 1.5 John-stroet ; Alex'r Smith. 3SS Broadway. N. Y : William Thorhurn .'*/ Broadway. Albaiiv. C F Crosmiui. Rncliester Hovev & Co ; Joseoli Rrcr-k & Co., Boston '■fX D. Landreth & Miiniis : H A Dice'. I'liil iiifOphia. Gibson & Kitcliie. Newark, N. Jer.^cy Vi U. 'Binclalr, Jr. & Co. Bi timrire .1 F C.illan. Washmston Citv Henry Cook, Alfxan k^ dria, D C. Fredeiick Wiilpcnn. CliMrifstoM. S. C. Tnrncr & Hiisrhrs, Raleigh, .\. C iS','' Mosely & Co, .Alo'dle. Wm Dim New Oriran.^. N. W. Haich & Co, Vicksbiirg. Jame.- M. ThoHinrn, St. LiiMis. S C P okhnr^t. Ciiir.innati : and other Seedsmen. Also, liy Sa.v ton 4- ' '-Mi, 289 Broadway, E. Walker, 114 Fullon-st.N. Y. ,• and Booksellers in genera I. 1 4 4 f I € f f € g-;^.g:-.«...X kiBRARY OF CONGRESS J -T^ ||hap.a.r:' " lopuright So. ^ # (|i I UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. | ■4 ( /' / ^ / z^' y <'' x^^ z /^c i^ KITCHEN GAROENEB'S INSTROi CONTAINING A CATALOGUE OF GARDEN AND HERB SEED, PRA(^TICAL DIRECTIONS UNDER EACH HEAD rOH THE CULTIVATION OF CULINARY VEGETABLES AND HERBS. WITH A CALENDAR, SHOWING THE WORK 'NECESSARY TO BE DONE IN A KITCHEN GARDEN EVERY MONTH THROUGHOUT THE SEASON. ALSO, DIRECTIONS FOR FORCING OR FORWARDING VEGETABLES OUT OF THE ORDINARY SEASON. THB WHOLE ADAPTED TO THE CLIM&T2 OF THK treTITKD STATES. A MEW AKD IMPROVED KDITION. By THOMAS BRIDGEMAN, Gardener, Seedsman, and Florist. NEW-YORK: FOR SALE BY THE AUTHOR, BROADWAY, CORNER OP EIGHTEENTH ST. Gi?(irge C. Thnrlnirn, 15 John-street ; Alex'r Smith. 393 Broadway, N. Y. : William Thorhurn, Broadway. Alliany. C. F. Crosm:in, R'lcliesfer Hovev & Co : Joseph Brei-k (t Co., Boston. n. Landrelh.& Mimns ; H. A Dree-, Pliila'Iclphla. Glhson & Ritchie. Newnik, N. Jersry. It Sinclair, Jr. & Co, Baltimore. J F Callan. Washmeton Citv. Henry Cook, Alexan- dria. D C. Fredeiick Wittpenn, Charleston, S. C. Turner & Hushes, Ralciyh, N. C. Mosely & Co, Mol)ile. Wm Dinn. New Orleans. N.W Hatch & Co, Viekshiirg. James M. Thorburn, St. Louis. S. C. P:irkhur>t. Cincinnati : and other Seedsmen. Also, by Sax- ton & Miles, 209 Broadway ; E. Walker, 114 Fuliou-st.N. Y. ; and Booksellers in general. w^*^tZr^^ /^ mx yL 5?^^ yr2,^^ e< ^^tf^ .^r^^ [Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year Eighteen Hundred and Forty-four, by Thomas Bridgeman, in the Clerk's Office of the Dis- trict Court of the United States, for the Southern District of New-York.] # b STEREOTVPF.D BY VINCENT [,. Ptt-L, No. l-i« Fulton Street. New Yotli. r:i. r\-''.^:-^\ PREFACE. " The Young Gardener's Assistant " having been ex- tended to five tinier its original size, by the introduction of various additional subjects connected virith Horticulture, I have been induced to pnblish that part which relates to the cultivation of Culinary Vegetables, Pot Herbs, &c., in a separate fonn, under the title of " The Kitchen Gardener's Instinictor." This has been done with a view to enable our respectable seedsmen to afford instruction, at a trifling ex- pense, to those of their customers whose attention may be directed wholly to that branch of Horticulture, and thereby prevent themselves being blamed by those who may not have given their seed a fair trial, from not knowing how to dispose of it in the ground. Having had twenty-four years' experience as a gardener and seedsman, in the vicinity of New- York, I am aware of the importance of correct information on the subject of gar- dening; and, from a conviction that the reputation of many honest seedsmen is often unjustly attacked in consequence of the failure of seed, when the fault lies not with them, but with the gardener, I have endeavoured, in my humble way, to render myself useful both to the seedsman and gardener, by giving brief directions for the management of a Kitchen Garden, in such a way as is calculated to insure success. But, as much depends on minute attention to points appa- rently trifling, I would remind my readers that the products of the garden are natives of various soils and climates, and that while some vegetables can only be raised in cool and temperate weather, others require the heat of the summer to bring them to perfection. This consideration should induce gardeners to watch the seasons as they pass, and also VI PREFACE. to plant their seed at suitable depths and distances, accord- ing to their nature and dimensions, as an oppoitunity of raising some of the luxuries of the garden being lost for the season, may occasion more anxiety and trouble, than it would cost to acquire a correct knowledge of the art of Gar- dening. It is, however, of the utmost importance to a gardener that he obtain such seed as will grow freely, and produce vegetables calculated to suit the market. As I value my reputation above all things upon earth, charity foibids me to believe that any man of standing would wilfully sell bad seed. It is true, that the most careful may at times be deceived, especially in seasons when a full supply of fresh seed can- not be obtained from their regular growers ; but, in general, our established seedsman may be supposed to know the true cha- racter of his stock; and if he studies his interest, he will not knowingly sell an article that is not calculated to do him credit. It must, however, be admitted, that knowledge is as necessaiy to a seedsman as to a gardener, and therefore the above remarks cannot apply to every storekeeper who may sell seed, because many, being mere agents, do not pretend to know one kind of seed from another ; and from its not being a primary object with them, it cannot be expected that they will take the same interest in the traflic as a regu- lar seedsman, and therefore such agents may not consider their reputation at stake. The experience of old and skilful gardeners will bear witness to the fact, that failures often occur even with good seed, and with the very best attention on the part of the gardener. It often happens that insects so infest the land, as to devour the seed while sprouting, and before a plant is seen above ground. Sometimes a seiious drought succeed- ing a heavy j-ain will cause seed to perish through incrusta- tion of the soil; and very frequently seed will fail to vegetate in dry soils and seasons, for want of pressure. I was once called upon by a neighbour to examine his garden, in which PREFACE. VU he had sown several sorts of seed a month previous, which he had condemned as barren and unfruitful. On looking over his land, I perceived a horse track : the animal had broken his halter, and traversed the garden in different directions. On tracing the horse's footsteps, I perceived plants coming up thick in the tracks, which convinced me that if the seed had been planted deeper, or the ground rolled at the time of depositing the seed therein, the gardener would have had no cause to complain either of the seedsman or his seed. The above instance of loss, occasioned by want of attention to points apparently of trifling importance, not being a soli- tary one, I would urge the gardener to precision and dili- gence in his undertaking ; and, as my object has been to impart useful knowledge in the following pages, they who are in pursuit of information on the subject of gardening, are invited to a perusal before they deposit their seed in the ground. As in all the former editions of this work, it was my earnest care to confine my attention to the most important practical subjects, I may be allowed here to remind the reader, that every article in the book contains ample direc- tions for the cultivation of whatever it has reference to ; but, as the inexperienced are apt to imbibe very erroneous ideas on some points of culture, I have, in this edition, introduced various notes, many of which are designed to point out the evil which it is intended to remedy ; — for instance, a novice in gardening undertakes to cultivate a piece of ground, and having been informed that manure is a very important arti- cle in the cultivation of his vegetables, procures, perhaps, ten times as much as is necessary ; this he applies to his beds in sucli extravagant quantities as to prevent the seed fiom germinating, and in some cases it renders the ground sterile, until time and exposure to the atmosphere reclaim it. (See note page 15.) Another very prevalent error is evinced by persons de» Wn PREFACE. laying to sow their seed until a period when they ought to be preparing to gather a crop ; hence it frequently happens that sue]), on the appearance of any rare vegetable in mar- ket, are induced to visit the store for some seed, which, al- though they sow it out of th« ordinary season, they expect to gather perfect specimens of vegetables. (See notes pages 52 and '7:i.) Others, again, are so inattentive to tlieir seed beds, after depositing seed therein, that they neglect all precautions of preserving their crops from the attacks of in- sects, which often make clean work before they are disco- vered. (See notes in pages 19, 55 and 104.) As such cus- tomers are generally loudest in their exclamations against seedsmen, I have been induced to discuss the most impor- tant points connected with the subjects, with a view to strike at the root oi' the most fatal errors attending the cultivation of a garden, and I flatter myself that my labours will be duly appreciated. As it is not intended in this Preface to give directions, but merely to show the object of the work, I would here inform the reader, that the general remarks for the manage- ment of the Kitchen Garden, pages 13 to 30, explain the method of destroying insects; of drilling, rolling, j)lanting, and managing the various soils; together with some useful tables calculated to make the attentive reader thoroughly acquainted with the ait of gardening. T. BRIDGEMAN. JYew-York, January, 1844. CONTENTS. GENERAL REMARKS ON THE MANAGEMENT OF A KITCHEN GARDEN. On laying out the ground, ------ A blank-book recommended, - - - - ' - Method of using manure, {note) - - - - - Observations on improving various soils — and on sowing seed early, -------- The drilling system recommended, - - - - Remedies for the destruction of insects, (note, 19) On the most pi-oper rotation of cix>ps, - - - A table showing the number of plants that may be raised on an acre of land, at given distances, which table may also be applied to other objects. On the durability of the germinative properties of seed, A table or classification of such species and varieties of seed as are usually cultivated in the Kitchen Garden, Explication of the above table, - - - - - Adaptation of the directions in this book to all climates, Pag*. 13 14 15 16 17 18 21 23 25 26 27 30 A CATALOGUE OF CULINARY VEGETABLES ; WITH PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS UNDER EACH HEAD. [The Notes are chiefly calculated to guard against error in cultivation.] Artichoke, - - - Asparagus, (note, 36) Beans, (English Dwarfs) Beans, (Kidney Dwarfs) [note) - - - Beans, (Pole or Running) Beets, (note) Borecole or Kale, Brussels Sprouts, Broccoli, {iiote, 49) 31 Cauliflower, (note, 52) - 51 34 Cabbage, (note, 55) 54 39 Cole wort or Collards, - 57 Cardoons, - - - 58 41 CaiTot, - - - 58 42 Celery, (note, 61) - 60 44 Corn Salad, or Fetticus, 63 46, Cress, - , - , 64 47 Cucumber, (note) - 65 48 Chives, or Cives, - m X. CONTENTS. Page. Egg-plant, {note, 67) - 66 Endive, - - - 68 Horse-radish, - - 69 Indian Corn, - - 70 Jerusalem Artichoke, - 70 Leek, - - - - 71 Lettuce, {note) - - 72 Melon, - - - 74 Melon, (Water) - - 75 Mustard, - - - 76 Nasturtium, - - 76 Okra, - - - - 77 Onion, {note, 78) - - 77 Parsley, {note, 80) - 79 Parsnip, {note) - - 81 Pepper, - - - 82 Peas, - - - Potato, Potato, (Sweet,) - Pumpkin, Radish, {note) Rocambole, Rhubarb, Salsify, Scorzonera, Sea-Kale, Skiriet, Shallot, Spinach, or Spinage, Squash, Tomato, Turnip, {note, 104) A Catalogue of Aromatic, Pot, and Sweet Herbs, Annual, Biennial, and Perennial Plants defined, - Plants cultivated for Medicinal purposes, - - - Directions for the cultivation and preservation of Herbs in general, ...---. Illustrations of drills, to be used for various kinds of seed. Representation of a Hot-bed with four sashes. Observations on Forcing Vegetables, - - - - Forcing Asparagus in Hot-beds, . . . - Forwarding Bi-oad Beans, or English Dwarfs, Forcing Kidney Beans, ------ Forwarding Broccoli and Cauliflower, - . - Forcing Cucumbers at an early season, - - - Forwarding Cucumbers in April and May, - - - Forwarding Lettuce for use in the winter, - Forcing Mushrooms at all seasons, . - , - Forwarding Melons on ridges under hand-glasses. Forcing Peas in Hot-beds, . . . - . Forcing Potatoes in Hot-beds, . - - . Forwarding Radishes and other vegetables. Forwarding Rhid)arb for use through the winter, Forwarding Salad, Herbs, Small Plants, &c.. Forwarding Tomatoes, ,-.-,. Forcing various kinds of vegetables, - - - - Method of cultivating the Hop, - - - - - Observations on the weather, as influenced by changes pf the moon, ,,-,-,- Pag«. 83 85 86 87 88 89 90 92 93 94 97 97 98 100 101 102 106 106 107 108 109 112 114 117 119 119 120 121 124 124 125 131 132 133 134 135 136 . 136 137 139 144 CONTENTS. XI. A table for prognosticating the weather through all the p*«*- lunations of the year, ------ 146 Introduction to the Monthly Calendar, with directions how to apply it to different climates, - - - 147 January. — Suggestions for the improvement of time in reference to gardening — By collecting information on the subject — By procuring fencing materials — Manure and ingredients for the destruction of insects. — Drilling machines and garden implements in general, prej^aratory for the work to be performed as the season progresses, ----- 148 February. — Directions for providing hot-bed frames, forcing pits, and materials to be used for forcing and forwarding vegetables, towards the end of the month — Also, for sowing seed, ----- 149 March. — Recommendations on various subjects — As at- tending to the hot-beds — regulating their tempera- .') ture — sowing such kinds of seed as are adapted to the season — Also, in manuring and digging the soil generally, preparatory to sowing and planting it next month, - - - - - - - 151 April. — The imj^ortance of this month to an industrious gardener exemplified — who is recommended to sow >■ all the vaiious kinds of seed enumerated in the Calendar — to attend to the spring dressing of his beds of Artichoke, Asparagus, Rhubarb, Sea-Kale, &c. — and to the Transplanting of various kinds of plants in due season, ------ 152 May. — Directions for destroying insects — and weeds-^ to prevent their seeding in the ground — Also, for ■ ^ sowing the various kinds of seed intended for summer crops; including the Bene-plant, with a view to have it for use in July. — This is also a good season to spawn Mushroom beds, and to form new ones, &c., -.----- 154 June. — The principal sowing season being nearly over, the gardener is reminded of the necessity of ascer- taining the success of former plantings, with a view to make up deficiencies before the month is too far advanced — Also, to hoe or plough between early vegetables in general, in order to mature them — ■ and to destroy weeds — Directions for the manage- ment of Aitichokes, Cauliflower, Herbs, Hop Vines, &c., 155 XII. CONTENTS. JFuLV. — Directions for transplanting of Cabbage, Car- doons, Celery, Endive, Leeks, Pepper Plants, &c., — Also, for the gathering and preserving of Aro- matic, Pot, and Medicinal Herbs, as they come into blossom — and for the cultivation of various sorts of vegetables described in the Calendar, - - 157 August. — The planting season being nearly over, the gardener is recommended to manure, dig, and plough vacant ground for autumn crops — to attend to Artichokes, Hops, Mushi'ooms, Onions, Shallots, Turnips, &c., as directed, - . - - . 158 September, — The business of this month consists in finishing the sowing of seed of the season — in ma- turing various kinds of vegetables, by hoeing and earthing — and in the gathering of Herbs, Hops, &c., as they arrive at maturity, - - - - 159 October. — Directions for preserving various plants and vegetables — by planting Parsley, Lettuce, Cal> bage, Cauliflower, &c., in frames — by providing pits to contain Beets, Potatoes, &c., — and by laying away Winter Squashes, Pumpkins, and other vege- tables designated, for use through the winter, - 161 November. — The best methods described, of stowing away for the winter ; Broccoli, Cauliflower, Cab- bage, Cardoons, Carrots, Celery, Horse-radish, Leeks, Turnips, and such other vegetables as need protection — Also, directions for the winter dressing of the beds of Artichoke, Asparagus, Rhubarb, and Sea-Kale, 162 December. — Hints on various subjects connected vnth the preservation of plants, vegetables, and imple- ments — and for collecting suitable manures, com- post, &c., for use next spring — Also, suggestions for ploughing or trenching paiticular kinds of soil, in order that it may be benefited by winter frost, 163 GENERAL REMARKS MANAGEMENT OP A KITCHEN GARDEN. Before commencing the Catalogue, it may be necessary to direct the reader's attention to some important matters^ essential to the good management of a Kitchen Garden. The mode of laying out the ground is a matter of taste, and may be left to the gardener himself, the form being a thing of trifling importance in the production of useful vege- tables; and it matters not whether the ground be laid out in beds of four or ten feet wide, provided it be well worked, and the garden kept neat and free from weeds. Those who have not a garden already formed, should, however, fix on a level spot where the soil is deep ; but as we have not always a choice, I would recommend the reader to that which is within his reach, and ought to be the object of every man, namely, to make the most of what he has. To this end, he may form a border round the whole gar- den, from five to ten feet wide, according to the size of the piece of land ; next to this border, a walk may be made from three to six feet wade ; the centre part of the garden may be divided into squares, on the sides of which a border may be laid out three or four feet wide, in which the various kinds of herbs may be raised, and also Gooseberries, Currants, Raspbenies, Strawbemes, &c. The centre beds may be planted with all the various kinds of vegetables. The outside Dorders, facing the east, south, and west, will be useful for raising the earliest fruits and vegetables ; and the north bor- der, being shady and cool, wall seiTe for raising and pricking 2 14 GENERAL REMARKS. out such young plants, herbs, and cuttings, as require to be screened from the intense heat of the sun. It may be necessary to state farther, that though shady sitviations are useful for the puipose of raising Celery, Cab- bage, and other small plants, shps, &c., in the summer season, all standard trees should be excluded from a Kitchen Garden for the following reasons : First, their roots spread so widely, and imbibe so much moistui'e from the ground, that little is left for the nourishment of any plant within the range of their influence ; secondly, when in full leaf, they shade a large space, and obstruct the free circulation of the air, so essential to the well-being of all plants ; and, thirdly, the droppings from trees are particularly injurious to whatever vegetation they fall vipon. Previous to entering on the work of a garden, the gar- dener should lay down rules for his future government. In order to this, he should provide himself with a blank book, in which he should first lay out a j)lan of his garden, allot- ting a place for all the different kinds of vegetables he intends to cultivate. As he proceeds in the business of planting his gi'ounds, if he should keeji an account of every thing he does relative to his garden, he would soon obtain some knowledge of the art. This the wiiter has done for more than twenty years, and he flatters himself that a publication of the results of his practice will be interesting and useful to his readers. If gardeners would accustom themselves to record the dates and particulars of their transactions relative to tillage, planting, Sec, they would always know when to expect their seed to come up, and how to regulate their crops for suc- cession ; and, when it is considered that plants of the Bras- sica, or Cabbage tribe, are apt to get infected at the roots, if too frequently planted in the same ground, and that a rota- tion of crops in general is beneficial, it will appear evident that a complete register of every thing relative to culture is essential to the well-bein"- of a Gfarden. One imi^ortant point to be attended to, is to have a supply GENERAL REMARKS. 15 of good old manure, and other composts, ready to incorpo- rate with the earth ; and also a portion of ashes, soot, tobacco dust, and lime, for the purpose of sowing over seed beds in dry weather, to destroy insects, which sometimes cut off young plants as fast as they come up. If the ^'ound cannot be all manured every year, as it should be, it is of primary importance that tliose vegetables be provided for which most need manure. A perusal of the Catalogue will enable the young gardener to judge of the kinds of garden products which require it most. Lest I should not have been explicit enough in this particular, I would inform him that good rich manure is indis])ensably ne- cessary for the production of Broccoli, Cauliflowei-, Cabbage,. Lettuce, Spinage, Onions, Radishes, and Salads in general. In the event of a scanty supply of manure, those kinds of vegetables which are raised in hills or drills, may be pro- vided for by disposing of the manure immediately under the seed or plants.* The next important matter is to have the ground in suita- ble condition to receive the seed. I wish it to be understood * As some cultivators, by their method of using manure, show that they have very erroneous ideas as to its real object or utility, I would remind such, that manure should be applied with a view to renovate and strengthen the natural soil, and not as a receptacle for seed. In order that manure may have a salutary effect, it should be thoroughly incorporated with the earth, by the operation of digging or ploughing. When it is used in hills or on a given spot, it should be well pulverized and mixed with the earth so as to form a compost. These remarks apply especially to strong ani- mal manures, the excrements of fowls, as also to sonpor's, tanner's, and glue manufacturer's manure, rags, &c. Lime, ashes, bone dust, poudrette, urate, salt, sulphur, gypsum, nitrate of potash, and other portable manures, inay be sown over Uic land previous to harrowing or raking it, or such manures may be formed into a compost when used in liills or drills. They should in every case be used with caution, as an indiscreet use of them will destroy the seed or plants, and thus defeat the cultivator's object. Many gardeners can corroborate the.'ie facts, from liaving used strong com- post as a mould for their hot-beds, thereby poisoning the germs of the seed, and causing the plants to die off prematurely; and it is notorious that a great proportion of failing crops is occasioned by an injudicious mode of using manure. 16 GENERAL REMARKS. that I am an advocate foi- early sowing and planting, even at the risk of losing a little seed, provided the ground be fit to receive it. A light, sandy soil will be benefited if worked when moist, as such treatment will have a tendency to make it more compact ; on the contrary, if a clayey soil be worked when too wet, it kneada like dough, and never fails to bind when drought follows ; and this not only prevents the seed from rising, but injures the plants materially in their subse- quent growth, by its becoming impeiTious to moderate rains, dews, air, and the influence of the sun, all of which are necessary to the promotion of vegetation. Some gaideners, as well as some Avriters, recommend certain fixed days for sowing and planting particular kinds of seed; I think it necessary to guard my readers against being misled. The failure of crops may be often attributed to the observance of certain days for sowing. If some kinds of seed be sown when the ground is wet and cold, they will become chilled in the ground, and seldom vegetate. If they be sown in very dry weather, the germinative parts of the seed may become injured by the burning rays of the sun, or the young plants may get devoured by insects as fast as they come up. To obviate these difficulties, I have generally allowed a week or ten days for sowing the seed, intending the medium as the proper time for the vicinity of New- York. With this clearly borne in mind, the reader who obsoi-ves the diiference in the degrees of heat and cold in the different parts of the country, will know how to apply these instructions accordingly. Much depends on the manures used on particular kinds of soil. The great art of improving sandy and clayey soils, consists in giving the former such dressings of clay, cow dung, and other kinds of manure, as will have a tendency to bind and make them more compact, and consequently, more retentive of moistuie ; and to the latter, coats of horse dung, ashes, sand, and such other composts as may tend to sepa- rate the jiarticles and open the pores of the clay, so as to cause it to approach as nearly as possible to a loam. GENERAL REMARKS. 17 The nearer the ground approaches to a sandy soil, the less retentive will it be of moisture ; the more to a clayey, the longer will it retain it ; and the finer the particles of which the clay is composed, the more tenacious will it be of water, and, consequently, the longer in drying, and the harder when dry ; but earth of a consistence that will hold water the long- est, ivithout becoming hard when dt-y, is, of all others, the best adapted for raising the generality of plants in the greatest perfection. This last described soil is called loam, and is a medium earth, between the extremes of clay and sand. I have, in most cases, recommended drills to be made at certain depths for the different kinds of seed ; and when I have stated that the drills should be two inches deep, it is intended that the seed should be covered only one inch, which it vrill be when planted in these drills, and covered ; and so in proportion for any other depth required. This may serve as a guide to the young gardener, but circum- stances alter cases ; if, for instance, some particular crops should fail, this would render it necessary, if the season be far advanced, to risk a farther planting of seed, even if the weather be hot and the ground dry. If this be planted a little deeper, it may escape the violent heat of the sun, and in the event of a shower, the ground would become suffi- ciently moist to bring it up ; whereas it sometimes happens that seed sown after a shower does not vegetate until after the season is too far advanced to bring the crop to perfection. The work of drilling by those who have no machine, may be perfoiTned in various ways ; in some cases a plough is used, in others a small hoe, or a dibble drawn along the edge of a board or line ; it is of little consequence which way the work is done, if it be well done. Wliile I leave the gardener to make his owoi choice of tools, I would suggest that he be provided with two or three drilling machines ; these, every handy man can make for himself; they should be in the form of a garden rake, with a stout, heavy back, and five teeth, about two inches broad, and tapered so as to enter the 2* 18 GENERAL UEMARKS. ground, and leave drills two inches deep. If one be made with the teeth eight inches apart, another twelve, and another fourteen, they will be useful in making drills for the various kinds of seed ; and drills thus made serve instead of strain- ing a line when transplanting Cabbage, Lettuce, Leek plants, &c. ; the line being stretched at one edge of the bed, and the drilling machine drawn straight by the line, makes five drills at once. If they are straight, they may be kept so, by keeping one drill open for the outside tooth to work in, until the ground be all drilled. Gardeners practice different methods of covering up seed ; some do it with a hoe, othei's with a rake or harrow ; some draw a portion of the eaith to the side of the bed, and after sowing the seed, return it regularly over the bed ; in some particular cases a sieve is used, in otheis a roller. Rolling or treading in seed is necessary in dry seasons, but it should never be done when the ground is wet. There is nothing that protects young crops of Turnips, Cabbage, and other small plants, from the depredations of the fly, so well as rolling ; for when the surface is rendered com- pletely smooth, these insects are deprived of the harbour they would otherwise have under the clods and small lumps of earth. This method will be found more effectual than soaking the seed in any preparation, or dusting the plants with any composition whatever ; but as the roller must only be used previous to or at the time of sowing the seed, and not even then if the ground be wet, it is necessary that the gardener should have a hogshead always at hand in dry weather, containing infusions made of waste tobacco, lime, soot, cowdung, elder, burdock leaves, &c. A portion of these ingredients, or any other preparation that is pernicious or poisonous to insects, without injuring the plants, thrown into a hogshead kept filled up with water, if used moderately over beds of young plants in dry weather, would, in almost every case, insure a successful crop. ^altjjctre is pernicious to many species of insects ; it is GENERAL REMARKS. 19 also an excellent manure, and may be used to great advan- tage when dissolved in the proportion of one pound to four gallons of water. This liquid, applied to plants through the rose of a watering-pot, will preserve health and vigour. Soapsuds are equally beneficial, if used occasionally in the same manner — say once a week. These remedies, applied alternately, have been known to presei've Melon and Cucum- ber vines from the ravages of the yellow fly, bugs, blight, &c., and to keep the plants in a thriving condition. As liquid, however, cannot be conveniently used on a large piece of land, it may be necessary, if insects are numerous, to sow tobacco dust, mixed with road dust, soot, ashes, lime, or the dust of charcoal, in the proportion of half a bushel per acre, every morning, until the plants aie free or secure from their attacks. Turnip seed will sometimes sprout in forty- eight hours. Cabbage seed ought to come up within a week after it is sown ; but it sometimes happend that the whole is destroyed before a plant is seen above giound ; the seeds- man, in this case, is often blamed, but without cause.* A correspondent has communicated the result of an exper- iment he has tiied for ju'eventing the attacks of flies or fleas on Turnips. He says, " Steep your seed in a pint of warm water for two hours, in which is infused one ounce of salt- petre ; then dry the seed, and add currier's oil sufficient to wet the whole ; after which mix it with plaster of Paris, so as to separate and render it fit for sowing." Fish oil is * As the truth of the old adage, That one ounce of prevention is of more value than a pound of cure, is very generally admitted, I would recom- mend the following method of preparing a bed for the purpose of raising Cabbage, Cauliflower, Broccoli, and such other plants as are subject to the attacks of insects : After digging or ploughing the ground in the usual way, collect any combustibles that are attainable, as dried weeds, sedge, turf, brushwood, leaves, stubble, corn-stalks, sawdust, or even litter from the dung-heap, which should be placed in heaps on the seed-beds and burned to ashes ; then rake the ground over and sow the seed, which will not be attacked by insects while the effects of the fire remain. In the event of extremely dry weather, water the beds every evening until th^ plants are in full leaf. This is an infallible remedy, 20 GENERAL REMARKS. known to be destructive to ants and various other small insects, but it is difficult to apply to plants. In the summer season, Broccoli, Cabbage, Cauliflow^er, &c., are particularly subject to the ravages of gi-ubs and caterpillars ; to prevent this wholly, is perhaps impossible, but it is not difficult to check these troublesome visitors ; this may be done by searching for them on their first ajipearance, and destroying them. Early in the morning, grubs may be collected from the earth, within two or three inches of such plants as they may have attacked the night previous. The approach of cateipillars is discoverable on the leaves of Cabbages, many of which are reduced to a thin white skin by the minute insects which emerge from the eggs placed on them ; these leaves being gathered and thrown into the fire, a whole host of enemies may be destroyed at once ; whereas; if they are suffered to remain, they will increase so rapidly, that in a few days the plantation, however extensive, may become infested ; and, when once these arrive at the butterfly or moth stage of existence, they become capable of perpetu- ating their destructive race to an almost unlimited extent. The same remarks apply to all other insects in a toi"pid state. Worms, maggots, snails, or slugs, may be driven away by sowing salt or lime in the spring, in the projoortion of two to three bushels per acre, or by watering the soil occasionally ■with salt and water, using about two pounds of salt to four gallons of water ; or the slug kind may be easily entrapped on small beds of plants, by strewing slices of turnip on them late in the evening ; the slug or snail will readily crowd on them, and may be gathered up early in the morning (before sunrise) and destroyed. Moles may be annoyed and driven away, by obstructing the passage in their burrows with sticks smeared with tar. First insert a clean stick from the surface through the bur- rows ; then dip others in tar, and pass them through into the floor of the bunows, being careful not to rub off" the tar in the operation. Tar is also an effectual remedy against smut GENERAL REMARKS. 21 in wheat : after being heated in a kettle until it becomes thin, it may be stirred in among the gi"ain until it becomes saturated. The wheat should afterward be mixed with a sufficient quantity of wood ashes to dry and render it fit for sowing. To prevent depredations from crows, steep com in strong saltpetre brine, sow it over the land, or steep your seed com ; and if the crows once get a taste, they will forsake the field. Perhaps the next important point to be attended to is the most proper rotation of crops. Virgil, who was a philoso- pher as well as a poet, very justly observes, that " the true REPOSE OF THE EARTH IS A CHANGE OF ITS PRODUCTIONS." It is a curious fact, that a plant may be killed by the poison which it has itself secreted, as a viper may be de- stroyed by its own venom. Hence it has been very gene- rally noticed, that the soil in which some particular vege- tables have grown, and into which they have discharged the excretions of their roots, is rendered noxious to the prosperity of plants of the same or allied species, though it be well adapted to the growth and support of other distinct species of vegetables. It is proved by experience, that fall Spinach is an excellent preparative for Beets, CaiTots, Hadishes, Salsify, and all other tap, as well as tuberous rooted vegetables. Celery or Potatoes constitute a suitable preparative for Cabbage, Cauliflower, and all other plants of the Brassica tribe ; as also Artichokes, Asparagus, Lettuce, and Onions, provided such ground be well situated, which is a circum- stance always to be duly considered in laying out a garden. Lands that have long lain in pasture are, for the first three or four years after being tilled, superior for Cabbage, Tur- nips, Potatoes, &c., and afterward for culinary vegetables in general. The following rules are subjoined for farther government : Fibrous rooted plants may be alternated wdth tap or tuberous rooted, and vice versa. 22 GfiNEUAL REMARKS. Plants which produce hixuriant tops, so as to shade the land, to be succeeded by such as yield small tops, or nan-ow leaves. Plants which during their growth require the operation of stirring the earth, to precede such as do not admit of such culture. Ground which has been occupied by Artichokes, Aspara- gus, Rhubarb, Sea Kale, or such other crops as remain long on a given spot, should be subjected to a regular I'otation of crops, for at least as long a period as it remained under such permanent crops. Hence, in all gardens judiciously man aged, the Strawberry bed is changed every three or four years, till it has gone the circuit of all the compartments ; and Asparagus beds, &c., should be renewed on the same principle, as often as they fail to produce luxuriantly. In deed, no two crops should be allowed to ripen their seed in succession in the same soil, if it can be avoided ; because, if it be not exhausted by such crops, weeds will accumulate more than on beds frequently cultivated. Manure should be applied to the most profitable and ex- hausting crops ; and the succession of crops should be so arranged, that the ground may be occupied by plants either valuable in themselves, or which may contribute to the in- creased value of those which are to follow ; and the value of the labour required to mature vegetables, and prepare them for market, should be always taken into consideration. Many kinds of seed, such as Asparagus, Capsicum, Celery, Fetticus, Leek, Lettuce, Onion, Parsnip, Parsley, Rhubarb, Salsify, Spinach, &:c., will not vegetate freely in dry weather, unless the ground be watered or rolled ; where there is no roller on the premises, the following contrivance may answer for small beds as a substitute : after the seed is sown, and the ground well raked, take a board the whole length of the bed, lay it flat on the ground, begin at one edge of the bed, and walk the whole length of it ; this will press the soil on the seed, then shift the board till you have gone over the whole bed. GENERAL REMARKS. 23 In the absence of boards, tread in the seed with your feet, or stiike on the bed with the back of your spade or shovel ; but this should not be done when the gi'ound is wet. If it be necessary at any time to sow seed in extremely dry weather, it is recommended to soak the seed in water, and dry it with sulphur. This practice, with attentive water- ing, will cause the seed to vegetate speedily. If it should be requisite to transplant any thing when the ground is dry, the transplanting should always be done as soon as the earth is turned over, and the roots of the plants, before they are set out, should be steeped in mud made of rich compost. I have, in most cases, recommended seed to be sown in drills drawn from eight to twelve inches apart, in preference to sowing broadcast, because the weeds can be more easily destroyed by means of a small hoe, which, if properly used, greatly promotes the growth of young plants. The follovnng table may be useful to the gardener, in showdng the number of plants or trees that may be raised on an acre of ground, when planted at any of the under-men- tioned distances : Distance apart. No. of Plants. 1 foot 43,560 li feet 19,360 2 feet ..... 10,890 2i feet 6,969 3 feet . . . . . 4,840 4 feet 2,722 5 feet 1,742 6 feet 1,210 Distance apart. No. of Plants. 9 feet 537 12 feet 362 15 feet 193 18 feet 134 21 feet 98 24 feet 75 27 feet 59 30 feet 48 The preceding table may serve as a guide to such as are not expert in arithmetic, in laying out a garden, as it shows at one view many proportions of an acre of land, in squares 24 GENERAL REMARKS. of different dimensions. The last line, for instance, shows that, if forty-eight trees be planted on an acre, each thirty feet apart, there may be forty-eight beds of thirty feet square, or thirty beds of forty-eight feet square, formed from the same quantity of land. An allowance of about one-eighth must, however, be made from the above calculation for walks and paths. The table may also serve to show the gardener how to dispose of any given quantity of manure, that may be allotted for an acre of ground. If, for instance, it requires three hundred and two trees to plant an acre when placed twelve feet from each other, it will require as many heaps of manure to cover the same quantity of gi'ound, if dropped the same distance apart. It therefore follows, that if one hundred loads be allowed to the acre, each load must be divided into three heaps. If seventy-five loads only be allowed, every load must be divided into four heaps, and so on in proportion to the quantity allowed. But if the gardener should choose to drop his heaps five paces or fifteen feet apart, he may make such distribution of his loads as to have one hundi-ed and ninety-three heaps on the acre of land ; in which case, by dividing each load into four heaps, he will require only forty-eight loads to cover the acre, and he may decrease the quantity still more, by allowing greater distances from heap to heap, or by dividing his loads into smaller proportions, so as to accommodate himself to whatever quantity of manure he may allot to any given quantity of ground. As it may hot be generally known that some kinds of seed are apt to lose their vegetative qualities much sooner than others, the following hints are subjoined as some rule for the gardener's government, provided the seed is carefully preserved, and not exposed to excess of heat, air, or damp- ness: ' > ■' ■' ■■;••■ ;•.; ■; ■ ■ GENERAL REMARKS. 25 Parsnip, Rhubarb, and other light, scale-Uke seeds, cannot be safely trusted after they are a year old. Beans and Peas of different species, Capsicum, Carrot, Cress, Leek, Nasturtium, Okra, Onion, Salsify, Scorzonera, and small Herb seed in general, may be kept two years. Artichoke, Asparagus, Egg-plant, Endive, Fetticus, Let- tuce, Mustard, Parsley, Skirret, and Sjjinach seed, may "wath care be preserved three years. Broccoli, Cauliflower, Cabbage, Celery, Kale, Radish, and Turnip seed, will keep four years, if properly attended to. Beet, Cucumber, Gourd, Melon, Pumpkin, and Squash, also, Buraet, Chervil, and Sorrel seed, have been known to grow freely when five and even seven years old ; but it is not prudent to venture seed in the garden, of the soundness of which we are not certain. In order to put such on their guard as may attempt to raise seed either for their own use or for the market, I would observe that great care is necessary, as it is an indubitable fact, that if seed of similar species be raised near each other, degeneracy wall be the consequence ; it is, therefore, difficult for any one man to raise all sorts of seed, good and true to their kind, in any one garden. If roots of any kind become defective, they are unfit for seed, as the annexed fact will show. I once planted for seed some beautiful orange-coloui'ed roots of Carrots, but as they had been previously grown wath some of a lemon-colour, they produced seed of a mixed and spurious breed ; and as this is not a solitary instance of degeneracy from the like cause, I have come to the conclusion, that as in the animal frame, so it is in the vegetable system — disorders very fre- quently lay dormant from one generation to another, and at length break out with all their vigour ; I would therefore adi^ise seed gi'owers not to attempt to " bring a clean thing out of an unclean," but if they find a mixture of varieties among their seed roots, to reject the whole, or they will in- fallibly have spurious seed, 3 26 GENERAL REMARKS. TABLE AND EXPLICATION. *^* In order to aid the novice in gardening, the following brief classification of such species and varieties as comprise our catalogue of vegetable seed is submitted, and it is pre- sumed that the connecting links, and explication of this table, will not be altogether uninteresting to the experienced gar- dener and seedsman. CATALOGUE. -a ffi c M o .£ Is M 6D c . -|| o Most 1 essential 1 Nutriment. | i 1 '3 S . .0.. ..0.. ..0.. . .0. ■ ..0.. ..0.. Beana (Ent,'lish Dwarfs) . .0.. ..0.. ..0.. . ,0. , ..0.. ..0.. Beet . .0. . ..0.. . .0.. .. ..0.. ..0.. . .0. . ..0. . ..0.. ..0. . .. .. ..0. . ..0.. CatiLat'e . .0. . ..0.. . .0. . ..0.. ..0.. Celery ..0.. . .0.. ..0.. . .0. ..0.. ..0.. ..0. . . .0.. Kgg Plant ..0. . ..0.. Endive . .0. . . .0. . ..0.. ..0.. ..0.. ..0.. ..0.. 0. . . 0. . . .0. . ..0 . . .0. . ..0 . -0. . . 0.. . .0. . . .0.. . .0.. Peas ..0.. .0 . . .0. Radish ..0.. .Salsify . .0. . 0, 0. ..0. . . .0. . . 0. Turnip ..0.. 0. . ^^^J In explication of the table, it may be necessary first to premise, that in the classification, as regards the genninating powers of different kinds of seed, it is conceded that if some of those denominated medium were put upon an equal foot- ing with some of the class denominated quick-growing, they would vegetate in about the same time. For instance, Peas GENERAL REMARKS. 27 •vpould spi'out as quick as Kidney Beans, with the same tem- perature ; but Peas, being hardy, are generally planted a month earlier in the season. If Beans were planted at the same time, they would rot for want of genial heat necessary to their germination. Many of the species denominated medium and tardy, re- quire considerable moisture to produce vegetation ; when not attainable, tardiness of growth, and sometimes total failure, are the consequence ; judicious gardeners, however, generally obviate difficulties of this natui'e, by sowing such seed at the most favovirable seasons. Those who delay sowing Carrot, Celery, Leek, Parsley, Onion, Parsnip, Spinach, &c., until dry summer weather, render themselves liable to disappoint- ment and loss thereby. * As some gardeners are apt to attribute all failures of seed to its defectiveness, I shall, in the hope of convincing such of their eiTor, offer a few observations under each head of the table. The first and second classes, denominated hardy and half- hardy, are subject to risk in unpropitious seasons, from un- fitness of the soil to promote vegetation, rendered so by cold rains and variable weather. If sprouted seed survive a severe chill, it is the more susceptible of frost, to which it is * As the matter relative to the first seven columns was in type previous to the introduction of the last two columns, I would here offer a few ob- servations illustrative of their object. People in general, from not con- sidering that the products of our gardens, being natives of the various cli- mates of the eartl), iiave each its peculiar aliment, expect to raise whatever they may wish for at almost any season. By referring to the classification in the eighth and ninth columns, they will be at once convinced of their error, as it will appear evident that such vegetables as require heat will grow best in summer, while those whose most essential nutriment is moisture, must be raised either in spring or autumn. It may be necessary to remind the gardener that, from the American spring being short, little can be done before the approach of warm weather ; it should therefore be our object to improve the autumn months in the cultivation of such vege- tables as can be brought to maturity before the setting in of winter. Having under each head of the Calendar recommended the most appropriate seasons for the different articles, it is unnecessary to dilate farther here, except to invoke my readers to adhere strictly thereto. 28 GENERAL REMARKS. frequently subjected early in the season. Some species of plants that, in an advanced stage of growth, will stand a hard winter, are often cut off by very slight fiost while germinating, especially if exposed to the heat of the sun after a frosty night, or while in a frozen state. Cabbage, CaiTot, Celery, Turnip, and many other growing plants, which survive the ordinary winters of England, are here classed as half-hardy, for the reasons above stated. The third class, or most tender species, frequently perish from excess of rain. Lima Beans, for instance, have often to be replanted three or four times in the month of May, before any will stand. Melons, Cucumbers, Egg-plants, Tomato plants, &c., are also often cut off by variableness of the weather ; indeed, it is unreasonable to expect natives of tropical climates to thrive or even live in a climate adverse to that in which nature first produced them, unless protected or nursed in unpropitious seasons, as recommended under the head forcing vegetables. Those who plant tender things in open gardens early in the season, must reconcile them- selves to loss in the event of vmfavourable weather, instead of throwing blame on the seedsman. The fourth class, embracing such species and vaiieties as, from their nature, are apt to vegetate quickly, are very liable to be devoured by insects before they make any show on the surface. Turnip seed, fur instance, will sprout within forty- eight hours after being sown ; and under favourable circum- Etances, most of the species of this class will come up within a week ; but if insects attack the seed beds in dry weather, a total loss of crops will be the consequence. Every expe- rienced farmer is con\'inced of this fact, by having frequently to sow his Turnip ground three or four times before he can get any to stand. Sometimes a sudden shower of rain will cause plants to grow out of the reach of insects, but every good gardener should have his remedies at hand to apply to seed beds in GEISraRAL REMARKS. 29 general, and especially to those in which plants are raised for the pui-pose of being transplanted. Those species and varieties embraced in the Jifth and sixth columns, often take from two to three or four weeks to vege- tate in unfavourable seasons. Some plants are retarded by cold, others by excess of dry weather ; and at such times, seed may fail to vegetate for want of pressure. In the event of drought after neavy rains, seed and young plants often perish through incrustation of the soil, and from other untoward circumstances, which can neither be controlled or accounted for, even by the most assiduous and precise gar- dener. It must, however, be conceded, that failures often occur, through seed being deposited too deep in the ground, or left too near the surface ; sometimes, for want of suffi- ciency of seed in a given spot, solitary plants will perish, tliey not having sufficient strength to open the pores of the earth, and very frequently injudicious management in ma- nuring and preparing the soil will cause defeat. I have been induced to expatiate, and to designate, in the seventh range of the preceding table, such plants as are gene- rally cultivated fii-st in seed beds, and afterward transplanted for the purpose of being accommodated with space to mature in, with a vaew to answer at once the thousand and one questions asked by inexperienced cultivators, at my counter. Some persons, from ignorance of the nature and object of raising plants for transplanting, ask for pounds of seed, when an ounce is amply sufficient for their purpose. For example, an ounce of Celery seed will produce ten thousand plants. An ounce of Cabbage seed will produce from three to four thousand, sufficient, when ti'ansplanted, to cover nearly half an acre of and, which land, if so^yn with Spinach, for instance, would require from four to six pounds of seed. To prevent any altercation on this subject, I would observe, in conclusion, that many other vegetables would admit of being transplanted besides those designated in our table; but as there is considerable risk and trouble inseparable from 30 GENERAL REMARKS. the operation, it is needless to apply it, unless there are para- mount advantages to be gained, the reverse of which would be the case, under ordinary circumstances, \vith the gene- rality of those plants not thus designated. Instead of answering any more queries, I think I shall for the future follow the example of the tj-uly eccentric Aber- nethy, and refer all enquirers for information to my books, which contain an answer to every important question that has been put to me on the subject of gardening since I became an author. T. BRIDGE MAN. *^* Previous to the commencement of our Catalogue, it may be necessary to remind the reader, that the directions which follow are founded on the results of practical experi- ence in the vicinity of New- York City, where the soil is generally susceptible of gardening operations toward the end of March. These directions may, however, be applied to all other parts of the United States, by a minute observ- ance of the difference in temperature. In the extieme northern parts of the State of New- York, as well as in all other places similarly situated, the directions for the beginning of April ^vill apply to the latter end of the same month, with very few exceptions. In our Southern States, the directions for APRIL, which may be considered as the first gardening month in the Eastern, Western, and Middle States, will apply to Janu- ary, February, or to whatever season gardening operations may commence in the respective States. In the varied climates of each particular State, if the same rule of application be pursued in accordance with the Calen- dar, success is ceitain. CATALOGUE, &c., &c. ARTICHOKE. Artichaut. Cynara. VARIETIES. Cynara Scolymus, or French. I Cynara Hortensis, or Globe. The garden Artichoke is a native of the South of Europe, and much cultivated for the London and Paris markets. It is a perennial plant, producing from the root annually its large squamose heads, in full growth, from June or July, until October or November. The Globe Artichoke, which produces large globular heads, is best for general culture, the heads being considerably larger, and the eatable parts more thick and plump. Both sorts may be raised from seed,* or young suckers taken from old plants in the sj)ring. A plantation of Arti- chokes will produce good heads six or seven years, and sometimes longer ; but it must be obseiTed, that if a supply of this delicious vegetable be required throughout the season, a small plantation should be made from suckers every spring, for a successive crop, as the young plants will continue to produce their heads in perfection, after the crops of the old standing ones are over. The most likely way to obtain a supply of Artichokes from seed, is to sow the seed in the latter end of March, or at any time in April, in a bed of good rich earth, or it may be planted in drills one inch deep, and about twelve inches apart. The ground should be light and moist, not such as is apt to become bound up by heat, or that, in consequence of • One ounce of seed will produce about six hundred plants. 32 ARTICHOKE. containing too large a proportion of sand, is liable to become violently hot in summer, for this is extremely injurious to these plants. After the plants are up, they should be kept free from weeds, and the earth often loosened around them. The business of transplanting may be done in cloudy or wet weather, at any time after the plants are from nine to twelve inches high. Having fixed upon a proper soil and situation, lay on it a good quantity of rotten dung, and ti-ench the ground one good spade or eighteen inches deep, incor- porating the manure therewith ; this being done, take up the plants, and after shortening their tap roots a little, and dressing their leaves, plant them with a dibble, in rows five feet asunder, and two feet from plant to plant, leaving part of their gi'een tops above gi'ound, and the hearts of the plants free from any earth over them, and give each plant a little water to settle the roots. The winter dressing of Artichokes is an imj^ortant opera- tion ; on it depends much of their future success. This should not be given them as long as the season continues mild, that they may have all possible advantage of growth, and be gi'adually inured to the increasing cold weather ; but it should not be deferred too late, lest by the sudden setting in of hard frost, to which we are subject in the Noithem States, the work be neglected, and the plants consequently exposed to devastation and loss. In the first place, cut all the large leaves close to the ground, leaving the small ones which rise from the hearts of the plants ; after this, line and mark out a ti'ench in the middle, between each row, from fourteen to sixteen inches wdde, presuming that the rows are five feet apart, as directed. Then dig the surface of the beds lightly from trench to trench, burying the weeds, and as you proceed, gather the earth around the crowns of the plants to the height of about six inches, placing it in gently between the young rising leaves, without burying them entirely under it ; this done, dig the trenches one spade deep, and distribute the earth equally ARTICHOKE. 83 between and on each side of the plants, so as to level the ridges, giving them, at the same time, a neat rounding form; finish by casting up w^ith a shovel the loose earth out of the bottom of the trenches evenly over the ridges, in order that the water occasioned by heavy rains, &c., may immediately run off; on which account the trenches ought to have a gen- tle declivity, as the lodgment of water about the roots in winter is the greatest evil and danger to which they are expos- ed, even greater than the most seveie frosts to which we are subject. The beds are to remain so, until there is an appearance of hard frost, when they should be covered with light dung, litter, leaves of trees, or the like, the better to preserve the crowns and roots from its rigour. In this manner, the roots will remain in perfect safety all the winter. As soon as the very severe frosts are over, the beds must be uncovered, and when you perceive the young shoots begin to appear above ground, or rather when they are one or two inches up, then, and not till then, proceed to level down the beds, throwing the earth into the alleys or trenches, and round them in a neat manner ; then dig in the short manure, and loosen all the earth around the plants. At the same time, examine the number of shoots arising on each stool, and select three of the strongest and healthiest looking on every stool, which are to remain ; all above that number are to be slipped off close to the roots wdth the hand, unless you want some to make new plantations with, in which case an extra number for that purpose are to remain on the parent plants, until they are about eight or ten inches high from their roots, or junction with the old plants, when they are to be shpped off, and planted in a bed prepared in the same manner as directed for the young plants, taking care, at the same time, to close the earth about the crowns of the roots, and draw it up a little to the remaining suckers. Observe, the spring dressing is to be given when the plants are in the above-described state, whether that happens in 34 ASPARAGUS. February, March, or April, occasioned by the difference of climate, in the respective States, or by the earliness or late- ness of the spring. The gardeners near London generally take off the side suckers, or small Artichokes, when they are about the size of a hen's egg. These meet with a ready sale in the mar- kets, and the principal heads that are left are always larger and more handsome. The maturity of a full-grown Arti- choke is apparent by the opening of the scales ; and it should always be cut off before the flower appears in the centre ; the stem should be cut close to the gi'ound at the same time. Artichokes are esteemed a luxury by epicures. To have them in perfection, they should be thrown into cold water as soon as gathered, and after having been soaked and well washed, put into the boiler when the water is hot, with a little salt, and kept boiling until tender, which generally requires, for full-grown Artichokes, from an hour and a half to two hours. When taken up, drain and trim them ; then sen'e them up with melted butter, pepper, salt, and such other condiment as may best suit the palate. ASPARAGUS. AsPERGE. Jlsparagus officinalis, VARIETIES. Gravesend. i Large Battersea. Large White Reading. 1 Large Green, or Giant. This plant is a native of cold climates, and is found gi'ow- ing wild in Russia and Poland,, where it is eaten by the cattle the same as grass. It will enduie the severity of our winters, and produce its buds, when the weather gets mild ; but as garden products are generally scarce after a hai'd ASPARAGUS. ^ 35 winter, the gardener who studies his interest will make the most of the spring season, and raise all he can before the market becomes glutted ; to this end, he is recommended to prepare for forcing this vegetable, as soon as the coldest of the winter is past. (See article on Forcing Vegetables.) Asparagus may be raised by sowing the seed in the fall as soon as- ripe, or in March and the early part of April. One ounce of seed will produce about a thousand plants. It requires some of the best gi'ound in the garden. The seed may be sown in drills, ten or twelve inches asunder, and covered about an inch with light earth. When the plants are up, they will need a careful hoeing, and if well culti- vated, and kept free from weeds, they will be large enough to transplant when they are a year old. Some keep them in the nursery bed until they are two years old. A plantation of Asparagus, if tlie beds are properly dressed every year, will produce good buds for twenty years or more. New plantations of Asparagus may be made in autumn, or before the buds get far advanced in spring, say in Febru- ary, March, or April, according to situation and circum- stances. The gi-ound for the bed must not be wet, nor too strong or stubborn, but such as is moderately light and plia- ble, so that it will readily fall to pieces in digging or raking, and in a situation that enjoys the full rays of the sun. It should have a large supply of well rotted dung, three or four inches thick, and then be regularly ti'enched two spades deep, and the dung buried equally in each trench twelve or fifteen inches below the surface. When this trenching is done, lay two or three inches of thoroughly rotted manure over the whole surface, and dig the ground over again eight or ten inches deep, mixing this top dressing, and incoi-po- rating it well with the earth. In family gardens, it is customary to divide the ground thus prepared into beds, allowing four feet for every four rows of plants, with alleys two feet and a half wide between each bed. Strain your line along the bed six inches from 36 ASPARAGUS. the edge ; then, with a spade, cut out a small trench or drill close to the line, about six inches deep, making that side next the line nearly upright ; when one trench is opened, plant that before you open anothei", placing the plants upiight ten or twelve inches distant in the row, and let every row be twelve inches apart. The plants must not be placed flat in the bottom of the trench, but nearly upright against the back of it, and so that the crown of the plants may also stand upright, and two or three inches below the surface of the ground, spreading their roots somewhat regularly against the back of the trench, and at the same time drawing a little earth up against them with the hand as you place them, just to fix the plants in their due position until the row is planted ; when one row is thus placed, with a rake or hoe draw the earth into the trench over the plants, and then proceed to open another drill or trench, as before directed ; and fill and cover it in the same manner, and so on till the whole is planted ; then let the sur- face of the beds be raked smooth and clear from stones, &c. Some gardeners, with a \'iew to have extra large heads, place their plants sixteen inches apart in the rows, instead of twelve ; and by planting them in the quincunx manner, that is, by commencing the second row eight inches from the end of the first, and the fourth even with the second, the plants will form rhomboidal squai'es, instead of rectangular ones, and every plant will thus have room to expand its roots and leaves luxuriantly.* * The above directions arc intended for family gardens. Those who may wish to raise Asparagus in large quantities for market, should prepare the ground with a plough, and plant two rows in each bed, which may be carried to any length required. If several beds are wanted, they may bo planted in single rows four or five feet apart, in order that the plough may be worked freely between them. Frequent ploughing will cause the roots to spread, so as to widen the beds, and the winter dressing may be per- formed in a great measure with the plough. After the Asparagus is cut, the ground between the beds may be ploughed, and planted with Cabbage, Potatoes, or any other vegetable usually cultivated in rows. ASPARAGUS. 37 WINTER DRESSING OF ASPARAGUS BEDS. About the beginning of November, if the stalks of Aspar- agus turn yellow, Avhich is a sign of their having finished their growth for the season, cut them down close to the earth, cany them off the ground, and clear the beds care- fully fi'om weeds. Asparagus beds must have an annual dressing of good manure ; let it be laid equally over the beds, two or three inches thick, after which, with a fork made for the purpose, (which should have three flat tines,) dig in the dung quite down to the crowns of the plants, by which means the roots will be greatly benefited ; as the winter rains will wash the manure down among them. It is the practice with some gardeners to dig the alleys at every autumn di'essing, and cover the beds with the soil taken out ; this may be done for the first two years after the beds are made, but not afterward ; as, when the plants are in full growth, their roots and crowns extend into the alleys, and digging them up frequently de- stroys plants, or renders them too weak to produce buds in perfection. The beds will be greatly benefited if covered to the depth of several inches with leaves, sea-weed, or long litter from the livery stables. The seedling Asparagus should also have a slight dressing, that is, clear the bed from weeds, and then spread light dung over it, to the depth of one or two inches, to defend the crowTi of the plants from frost. SPRING DRESSING OF THE BEDS. This work should be done from about the latter end of March to the middle of Apiil, or just before the buds begin to rise. After clearing away all long litter, or whatever may encumber the ground, spread the short dung over the whole surface, and dig it in : if the alleys be dug at the same time, it will be very beneficial to the plants. Care must be taken at this season not to wound the crowns with the tines of the fork, but forking the beds should not be neglected, as admit- 4 38 ASPARAGUS. ting the sun and rain into the gi-ound, induces the plants to throw ujD buds of superior size ; to promote such a desirable object, the gi'ound should be kept clear of weeds at all sea- sons, as these gi'eatly impoverish the soil, and ft'equently smother the plants. The gardeners of England raise Asparagus in gi'eat per- fection, and sometimes have buds weighing from three to five ounces each. Loudon says, in his Encyclopaedia of Gardening, that one grower alone has eighty acres entirely under this crop for the London market. Asparagus plants will not produce buds large enough to cut for general use, in less than three years from the time of planting, but in the fourth year, when the shoots are three or four inches high, they will bear extensive cutting, which should, however, be discontinued when no large buds are thro\vn up. The best way of cutting is to slip the knife down jjei'pendicularly close to each shoot, and cut it off slan- tingly, about three or four inches bencatli the ground, taking care not to wound any young buds proceeding from the same root, for there are always several shoots advancing in different stages of growth. Asparagus is considered a wholesome vegetable, and should not be kept long after it is gathered ; after being well washed, it may be tied in bundles of about a dozen buds each, and boiled in water slightly seasoned with salt, until tender, which will be in about twenty minutes ; take it up before it loses its ti'ue colour and flavour, and serve it up on toasted bread, with melted butter, &c. BEANS. 39 BEANS. (English Dwarfs.) Feve de marais. Vicia faba. TARIETIES. Early Mazagan. Early Lisbon. Early Long Pod. Large Windsor. Large Toker. Broad Spanish. Sandwich Bean, Green Genoa- Dwarf Cluster. White Blossom. Green Nonpareil. Sword Long Pod- The principal cause of these garden Beans not succeed- ing well in this country, is the summer heat overtaking them before they are podded, which causes the blossom to drop off prematurely ; to obviate this difficulty, they should be planted as early in the year as possible ; as recommended in the article, " Forwarding Broad Beans." They are generally planted in England, fi-om October to April, for early crops, and from that time to July, for late crops. It sometimes happens that autumn plantings are injured by the coldness of their winters, but an average crop is generally obtained. In the Eastern, Western, and Middle States, if a few of the best varieties of these Beans be planted in the open ground, as soon in the season as it can be brought into good condition, they will come into bearing in regular succession, according to their different degrees of earliness, and plant- ings may be repeated every ten days of the first spring month ; but it is only from those that are planted early that any tolerable produce can be expected, as they become defi- cient in quality, as well as in quantity, on the ajjproach of extreme warin weather. In the Southern States they may be planted in succession throughout the autumn and winter months, which will cause them to bear early in the ensuing season. The best mode of planting is in drills, drav^oi two inches deep, in which the seed Beans may be dropped two or three 40 BEANS. inches apart, according to their size, and the drills may be from two to three feet asunder. A strong clayey soil is the most suitable ; but they often do well in moderately light gi-ound, pi'ovided it be well trodden, or rolled, after the Beans are planted. As soon as the Beans are three or four inches high, they will need a careful hoeing ; and if some eaith be drawn up to their stems, three or four times in the course of their growth, it will greatly refresh and strengthen them. When they airive at full bloom, and the lower pods begin to set, the tops may be broken off. If this be done at the proper time, it will promote the swelling of the pods, as well as their early maturity ; for having no advancing tops to nourish, the whole effort of the root will go to the support of the fruit. Broad Beans are particularly subject to gi-een bugs. To- bacco water, or salt water, will sometimes destroy them ; but the most certain way is to watch their first appearance, and pick off that part on which they first settle, and bum it; or if such plants be cut down close to the ground, they will produce fresh shoots, which may bear a good crop. One quart of ■•seed Beans will be required for every sixty feet of row, allowing the smallest sorts to be planted about two inches apart, and the largest four inches. The beans should be gathered young, and shelled while fresh. After having been washed, let them be boiled in plenty of water with a little salt and a bunch of green parsley. They take from thirty to forty minutes to boil, according to age, and may be served up with melted butter, gravy, &c. ; but they are very good when cooked and eaten with fat pork, or good old-fashioned Hampshire bacon. BEANS, 41 BEANS. (Kidney Dwaifs.) Haricot. Phaseolus imlgaris, etc. VARIETIES. Early Denmark. Early Mohawk. Early Valentine. Early Yellow Six Weeks. Early Dun-coloured, or Quaker. Early China Dwarf. Early Rachel, or Quail's Head. Early Rob Roy. Early Black Dwarf. Large White Kidney Dwarf. White Cranberry Dwarf. Red Cranberry Dwarf. Yellow Cranberry Dwarf Refugee, or Thousand to One, Marble Swiss Bean. Royal Dwarf Kidney, or French. These varieties of Beans, being natives of India, South America, and other warm cUmates, will not endure the least cold, and it is therefore always hazardous to plant them in the open ground until settled warm weather. The earHest varieties, if planted toward the end of April or the first week in May, vnll come to perfection in from six to eight weeks after planting. Some of the later varieties will keep longer in beaiing, and are esteemed by some on that account. These, with some of the early varieties, may be planted in the months of May and June ; and if a regular succession of young beans be required throughout the summer, some of the varieties should be planted every two weeks, from the last week in April until the beginning of August.* These Beans require a light, rich soil, in which they should be planted in hills, thi'ee or four in a hill, or diills about two inches deep, and the Beans two or three inches from each other ; the drills may be from two to three feet apart. The Refugees do best when planted in hills. As the Beans pro- gress in growth, let them be carefully hoed, drawing some * Some gardeners, anxious to have Beans early, are apt to begin planting too soon in the season, and very frequently lose their first crops. It should be recollected, that these Beans are next to Cucumbers and Melons as re- gards tenderness, and will always grow quicker and yield better, if the planting be delayed until settled warm weather. The Early Mohawk is the hardiest, and may sometimes succeed well, if planted about the middle of April, but it is much safer to delay the planting of any quantity until towards ihe end of the month, 4* 42 BEANS. earth up to their stems at the same time, which will cause them soon to be fit for the table. One quart of Kidney Beans will plant from three hundred and fifty to four hundred hills, according to the size of the Beans, allowing four Beans to each hill, or from two hundred and thirty to two hundred and sixty feet of row, allowing six Beans to every foot. These Beans should not be suffered to get old and tough before they are gathered ; be careful in trimming them, to strip off the strings. To effect this desirable object, break them across ; and, in order to preserve their gieenness, soak them in salted water for a short time, then put them into the water while boiling, which should be previously seasoned w ith salt. When they are tender, which will be in from fif- teen to twenty minutes, take them up and drain them through a collander, in order to render them capable of absorbing a due share of gi'avy, melted butter, &:c. BEANS. (Pole or Running.) Haricots a rames. Phaseohis Lhnensis. VARIETIES. Large White Lima. I Speckled Lima. Phaseolus MnUiJlorus. VARIETIES, Scarlet Runners. White Dutch Runners. Dutch Case Knife, or Princess Asparagus, or Yard Long. London Horticultural. French Bicolour. Red Cranberry. White Cranberry. These species and varieties of Beans may be planted early in the month of May and in June, either in hills three feet distant from each other, or in drills about two inches deep, and the Beans two or three inches apart in the drills. 43 BEANS. The poles should be eight or ten feet long, and may be fixed in the ground before the Beans are planted. The varieties of Lima Beans should not be planted in the open groumd until the second week in May, unless the sea- son be very favourable, and the ground vv^ann. As these Beans are apt to get rotten by cold and damp weather, let six or eight be planted half an inch deep round each pole, and afterward thinned, leaving three or four good plants in a hill, which hills should be full four feet distant from each other every way. The soil for Running Beans should be the same as for Dwarfs, except the Lima, which require richer ground than any of the other sorts. A shovelful of rich light compost, mixed with the eaith in each hill, would be beneficial. If any varieties are wanted before the ordinary seasons, they may be planted in flower-pots, in April, and placed in a greenhouse or garden frame, and being transplanted in May, with the balls of earth entire, will come into beaiing ten or fourteen days earlier than those which, in the first instance, are planted in the open ground. It will require about a quart of Lima Beans to plant one hundred hills. A quart of the smallest-sized Pole Beans will plant three hundred hills and upward, or about two hundred and fifty feet of row, and the largest runners will go about as far as the Lima Beans. Lima Beans should be shelled while fresh, and boiled in plenty of water until tender, which generally takes from fif- teen to twenty minutes. The mode of cooking and prepaz"- ing the other sorts, is the same as for Kidney Dwarfs. 44 BEET. ■ ' BEET. Betterave. Beta vulgaris. VARIETIES. Early Blood Turnip-rooted. Early Scarcity. Early Long Blood. Mangel Wurtzel. Extra Dark Blood. French Sugar, or Silesia. Yellow Turnip-rooted. Sir John Sinclair's. Beets, in their several varieties, are biennial, and the best blood-coloured are much cultivated for the sake of their roots, which are excellent when cooked, and very suitable for pickling after being boiled tender ; they also, when sliced, make a beautiful garnish for the dish, and the young plants are an excellent substitute for Spinach. The Mangel Wurtzel and Sugar Beets are cultivated for cattle. Domestic animals eat the leaves and roots with great avidity. They are excellent food for swine, and also for milch cows ; and possess the quality of making them give a large quantity of the best-flavoured milk. The roots are equally fit for oxen and horses, after being cut up into small pieces and mixed with cut straw, hay, or other dry feed.* A small bed of the earliest Tuniip-rooted, and other es- teemed kinds of Beets, may be planted in good rich early ground the first week in April, which, being well attended to, will produce good roots in June. Draw drills a foot apart, and from one to two inches deep ; drop the seed along the drills one or two inches from each * An acre of good, rich, loamy soil has been known to yield two thou- sand bushels of beet-roots, some of which weighed from fifteen to twenty pounds each. To produce such enormously large roots, they should be cultivated in drills from two to three feet apart, and the plants thinned to ten or twelve inches in the rows. It is generally conceded, however, that moderate-sized roots contain more saccharine matter, in proportion to Uieir bulk, than extra large roots, and that twenty tons, or about seven hundred bushels, are a very profitable crop for an acre of land, and would be amply sufficient to feed ten cows for three or four months of the year. A gen- tleman in Connecticut computes the products of one-fourth of an acre of good land, at eight tons, which, he says, will support a cow the whole year. He allows five tons to feed on for nine months, and the other three tons to be sold, and the proceeds applied to the purchase of other food, to be given from tlie time the roots fail in the spring, until new roots are produced. BEET. 45 Other, and cover them with earth. When the plants are up strong, thin them to the distance of six or eight inches from each other in the rows. The ground shoukl be afterward hoed deep round the plants, and kept free from weeds. If the planting of Beet seed, for general crops, be delayed until May or June, the roots will be much larger and better than those from earlier planting, which, from being frequently stunted in growth by the various changes of weather, become tough, stiingy, and of unhandsome shape. In case of the failure of crops, or of unfavourable weather in June, Beet seed planted the first week in July will sometimes produce large, handsome roots, which may be preserved for v^dnter use. The most suitable ground for Beets is that which has been well manured for previous crops, and requires no fresh ma- nure, provided it be well pulverized. It is always best to thin Beets while young. If the tops arc used as a vegetable, they should not be left too long for this pui-pose, or they will gi-eatly injure the roots of those that are to stand. Beds that are to stand through the sum- mer, should be kept clean by repeated hoeings ; and the roots intended for winter use should be taken up in October, or eaily in November, and stowed away, as directed in the calendar for those months. Allowang Beet seed to be planted on the gardening plan, it will require at the rate of ten pounds for an acre of land, which is two pounds and a half for a rood, and one ounce for every perch, pole, or rod. If cultivated on the field sys- tem, that is, by planting them a sufficient distance apart to admit of ploughing between each row, one half the quantity of seed will be sufficient, or even less, if sown regular. If it be an object with the cultivator to save his seed, he may drop some in each spot where a plant is required, and thin them as before dii'ected. It may be necessary to add, that one pound of Beet seed will measure about two quarts, and as each capsule contains four or five small seed, thinning out the sui^plus plants is in- dispensable to the production of good roots. 46 BORECOLE, OR K.\LE. BORECOLE, OR KALE. Chou Frise Vert. Brassica oleracea, etc. VARIETIES. Green Curled, or Scotch. Dwarf Brown, or German. Purple Fringed. Jerusalem, or Buda. Cesarean Kale. Thousand-headed Cabbage. There are several sub-varieties of this genus of plants besides those above specified, most of which have large open heads, with curled wrinkled leaves. The Dwarf Curled, or Finely Fringed sorts, are much cultivated in Eurojie for the table ; and the coarse and tall-growing are considered pro- fitable for cattle. The Thousand-headed Cabbage, and Ce- sarean Kale, grow from three to five feet high, and branch out from the stem, yielding an abundant supply of leaves and sprouts in the winter and sjiring. For the garden, these several varieties may be treated in every respect as Winter Cabbage. The seed may be sown from about the middle of May to the fii'st week in June, and the plants set out in the month of July, in good rich ground. They are never so delicious as when rendered tender by smart frosts ; they are valuable plants to cultivate, particu- larly in the more Southerly States, as they will there be in the gi-eatest perfection during the winter months ; they will also, if planted in a gravelly soil, and in a sheltered warm situation, bear the winter of the Western States; and may be kept in great perfection in the Eastern States, if taken up before the frost sets in with much severity, and placed in trenches, up to their lower leaves, and then covered with straw or other light coveiing : the heads may be cut off as they are required for use ; and in the spring, the stems being raised up, will produce an abundance of delicious gi'eens. One ounce of good Borecole seed Avill produce about four thousand plants, and may be sowTi in a border four feet by ten, or thereabout. ' BRUSSELS SPROUTS. 47 BRUSSELS SPROUTS. Chou de Bruxelles agets. Brassica oleracea. This plant frequently grows from three to five feet high, and produces from the stem small heads resemhling cabbages in miniature, each being from one to two inches in diameter. The top of the plant resembles the Savoy, when planted late. The sprouts are used as winter greens, and they become very tender when touched by the frost. The seed may be sown about the middle of May, in the same mamier as Borecole, and the plants set out with a dib- ble early in July. The subsequent treatment must be in every respect as for Borecole. Some gardeners, with a view to furnish the New- York markets with gi-eens early in the spring season, when vege- tables in general are scarce, cultivate the common Rape, [Brassica Rajms ;) it being a good substitute for Bnassels Sprouts, which are not always attainable after a hard winter. If Rape seed be sown early in September, the plants will survive an ordinary winter, and produce top shoots or sprouts early ; but it is best sown as soon as the ground is suscepti- ble of cultivation in the spring, say the last week in March. The sprouts should be cut while young, as such greens then command the best prices, and are more palatable than when far advanced in gi'owth. It may be necessary to add that, in cooking these sprouts, as also Kale, Colewort, and gi'eens in general, they should be put into hot water, seasoned with salt, and kept boiling briskly until tender. If it be an object to preserve their natural colour, put a small lump of pearlash into the water, which also makes the coarser kinds of cabbage more tender in the absence of meat. 48 ■ BROCCOLI.. BROCCOLI. Chou Brocoli. Brassica oleracea Italica. Early White. Early Dwarf Purple. Early Green. Dwarf Brown. Large Late Purple. VARIETIES. Large Purple Cape. White Cape, or Cauliflower. Sulphur-coloured Cape. Branching Purple. Large Late Green. The several varieties of Broccoli and Cauliflower may be justly ranked among the greatest luxuries of the garden. They need only be knowni in order to be esteemed. The Broccoli produces heads, consisting of a lump of rich, seedy pulp like the Cauliflower, only that some are of a green colour, some purple, some brown, &c., and the white kinds 60 exactly resemble the ti'ue Cauliflower, as to be scarcely distinguishable, either in colour or taste. Broccoli is quite plentiful throughout England the greater part of the year, and it is raised with as little trouble as Cabbages are here. The mode of raising the purple Cape Broccoli is now generally understood in this part of America ; but the cultivation of the other kinds has been nearly aban- doned, on account of the ill success attending former attempts to bring them to perfection. In some of the Southern States, where the winters are not more severe than in England, they will stand in the open gi'ound, and continue to produce their fine heads from No- vember to April. In the Eastern, Western, and Middle States, if the seed of the late kinds be sown in April, and the earlier kinds in May, in the open ground, and treated in the same manner as Cauliflower, it would be the most certain method of obtaining large and early flowers ; but as only a part of these crops can be expected to come to per- fection before the approach of winter, the remainder will have to be taken up, laid in by the roots, and covered up with earth to the lower leaves, in some sheltered situation, to promote the finishing of their growth. BROCCOLI.. 49 Those who are desirous of obtaining Broccoli and Cauli- flower in any quantity, so as to have all the different varieties in succession throughout the winter months, should have places erected similar to some of our greenhouses : the back and roof may be made of refuse lumber, which being after- ward covered with fresh stable dimg, will keep out the frost. The place allotted for Cape Broccoli and Cauliflower should have a glazed roof to face the south ; the sashes must be made to take off in mild weather, but they should be always kept shut in severe cold weather, and covered with mats, or boards, litter, &c., so effectually as to keep out the frost. The hardy kinds of Broccoli may be preserved vdthout glass, by having shutters provided to slide over the front in extreme cold weather, which may be covered over with fresh stable dung or other litter. If these plants get frozen, it will be necessary to shade them from the full rays of the sun until they are thawed ; this may be done by shaking a little sti-aw on the bed as they lay. It may not, perhaps, be generally understood, that the sud- den transition from cold to heat is more destructive to vege- tables than the cold itself. If plants of any kind get frozen, and cannot be screened from the full rays of the sun, they should be well watered as the air gets warm, and before they begin to thaw ; this will draw out the frost, and may be the means of saving the plants. The proper time for sowing the seed of Purple Cape Broccoli is from the tenth to the twenty-fourth of May : * those who intend to provide a place for the winter keeping * It has been proved by repeated experiments, that the Purple Cape Broccoli succeeds better in our climate than any oUicr variety; and, also, that if Broccoli or Cauliflower plants be retarded in growth by extreme heat, they seldom arrive at full perfection. It is, therefore, important that the time of sowing the seed of Cape Broccoli be so regulated as to allow, say six weeks of the summer, for the plants to grow in, previous to their being transplanted, and about seven or eight weeks between that and the commencement of cool autumn weather, which is essential to mature them. If seed be sown much before the middle of May, or so early that the plants arrive at full growth in the heat of summer, and thereby become 5 50 BROCCOLI. of the othei* kinds, may sow seed of die most esteemed varie- ties at the same time, or in two or three separate sowings, a week apart. In order to insure good stout plants, let the seed at this season be sown in a moderately shaded border. It is best to sow it in shallow drills, drawn three or four inches apait, in which case, one ounce of seed will occupy a border of about four feet in width by twelve in length, and produce about four thousand strong plants. {See article Cabbage.) In the beginning of July, or when the plants are of suffi- cient size, they should be transplanted into extraordinarily rich gi'ound, which should be previously brought into good con- dition. This being done, plant them in rows two feet and a half ajjart, and two feet distant in the rows. As soon as they have taken root, give the ground a deep hoeing, and repeat this two or three times in the course of their growth, drawing some eartli around their stems. Some of the Cape Broccoli, if attended to as directed, will come to perfection early in September and in October ; the other kinds will produce their heads in regular succes- sion throughout the winter and spring months, according to their different degrees of earliness, provided an artificial cli- mate be provided for them. These, of course, with what- ever may remain of the Cape Broccoli, will have to be taken up early in October, and laid in carefully, with the roots and stems covered with earth as far as their lower leaves. Those who have not a place provided, may keep a few in frames, or in a light cellar ; but every gardener and country gentle- man should have suitable places erected for a vegetable that yields such a delicious repast, at a time when other luxuries of the garden are comparatively out of our reach. stunted, they generally button, instead of fonning perfect heads of flowers, and are consequently of no use but for cattle. In some of the Southern States, late planting of Broccoli and Cauliflower succeeds better than early, because the winters are calculated to mature these vet;etables, from their not being subject to injury from slight frost, in a, late stage of their gTowth. CAULIFLOWER. 51 CAULIFLOWER. Choufleur. Brassica olcracea botrytis. VARIETIES. Early White. I Late White. Hardy Red, or Purple Cauliflower. This is a first rate vegetable, to obtain vi^hich, great jiains must be taken in every stage of its growth, the extremes of heat and cold being very much against it : which circum- stance accounts for good Cauliflowers being scarcely attain- able in unpi'opitious seasons, and which the novnce falsely attributes to defectiveness of the seed. To produce early Cauliflower, the seed should be sown be- tween the sixteenth and twenty-fourth of September, in a bed of clean, rich earth. In about four or five weeks after- ward, the plants should be pricked out into another bed, at the distance of four inches from each other every way ; this bed should be encompassed with garden frames, covered with glazed sashes, and boards or shutters ; the plants should be watered and shaded a few days till they have taken root ; they will afterward require light and air every mild day throughout the winter ; but the outsides of the frames must be so lined and secured, and the tops of the beds so covered, as to keep out all frost. The plants should be well attended to until the time of ti-ansplanting in the spring ; and those who have not hand or bell glasses, so as to enable them to set some out by the latter end of March, should have a frame ready about the last week in February, in order that they may be transplanted to the distance of eight or nine inches apart ; this would prevent them from buttoning or growing up weak ; if this be not done, some of the strongest plants should be taken out of the beds and planted in flower pots, which may afterward bo placed in a frame or gi-eenhouse, until the weather be warrd and settled, which may be expected soon after the middle of 5§ CAULIFLOWER. April. They should then be turned out with the balls of earth entire, and transplanted into a bed of the richest earth in the garden, at the distance of two feet and a half from each other every way; the residue may be taken up from the frame the last week in April, or earlier, if the season proves mild, by means of a garden trowel, and transplanted as above* The plants should afterward be well cultivated, by hoeing the gi'ound deep around them, and bringing some earth grad- ually up to their stem, so as to push them forward before the approach of warm weather. When the soil has been drawn up to the plants some little time, fork the ground between the rows lightly over, which will promote their growth. They should be liberally supplied with water in dry weather; those out of flower twice a week, and those in, eveiy other day, which will contribute to their producing very large heads. As the flower heads appear, the larger leaves should be broken down over them, to defend them from the sun and rain, in order that the heads or pulps maybe close, and of their nat- ural colour. Plants from the autumn sowing are generally allowed to succeed best ; but good Cauliflowers are sometimes produced from seed sown in a hot-bed toward the end of January, or early in February. Great pains must be taken to have the bed in good condition to receive the seed ; when the plants are up, they must have air every mild day, and as they pro- * Many persons are apt to forget, that the successful cultivation of Cau- liflower depends on the particular seasons in which the plants are raised and set out ; and, consequently, instead of raising their own plants in the right seasons, apply for them at the seed-stores and gardens, in May and June. Now, it should be recollected, that if early Cauliliower do not ar- rive at, or near perfection, by the end of June, the plants get stunted by the heat, and seldom yield any thing but leaves, except the summer should prove mild, in which case, some of the early plants may flower in autumn ; but it is needless to risk the setting out of early Cauliflower plants later than April for the sake of such chance, because plants raised from seed Bown about the middle of May, and transplanted in July, are by far the most likely to produce good liill Cauliflower. CAULIPLOWKR. 53 gress in growth, they should have as much air as possible, consistent with their preservation ; but the beds must be kept covered up every night, as long as there is any danger of frost. When the plants are three or four inches high, they must be pricked out three or four inches apart into another bed, and by the latter end of April they may be transplanted into the ground, and treated in every respect the same as the other. In the early part of May, Cauliflower seed may be sown in the open border, in drills, as recommended for Broccoli, and one ounce of seed \vill produce about four thousand plants. These plants should be pricked out in June, and transplanted into good ground early in July, to flower in Autumn : those that are not likely to flower by the last of October, should be taken up and provided for in the manner recommended for Broccoli. Cauliflower, and also Broccoli, should be gathered while the pulp is close and perfect. After ha\'ing trimmed off" some of the outside leaves, let them be boiled in plenty of water seasoned with salt, taking care to skim it, and also to ease the cover of the pot so as not to confine the steam. Take them up as soon as the fork will enter the stems easily, which will be in from ten to twenty minutes, according to their size and age ; drain them so as to make them susceptible of ab- sorbing a due proportion of gravy, melted butter, &c. This renders them a palatable and dainty dish. 5* 'J^ CABBAGE. CABBAGE. Chou. lirassica oUracea, etc. VARIETIES. Early Imperial. | Large Bergen, or American. Early Dwarf Dutch. 1 Late Flat German. Early York. Early Sugarloaf. Early Kmperor. Early Wellington. Early Heart-sliapcd. Early London Market. Large Green Glazed. Large Late Drumhead. Red Dutch, for pickling Green Globe Savoy. Large Cape Savoy, (rreen Curled Savoy. Early London Battcrsea. I Turnip rooted, in varieties The early sorts of spiing Cabbage may be raised in vari- ous w^ays. Some sow tlie seed between the tentb and twenty- fourth of September, pricked out and managed the same as Cauhflower plants, only that they are more hardy, and may sometimes be keipt through the winter, without sashes. Some prefer sowing the seed in a cold-bed, covered by a garden frame with sashes. If this frame be placed on a ^varm border, and kept free from frost, and the seed of the early kinds sown the latter end of January, or early in Feb- ruary, these plants will be better than those raised in the tall ; as they will not be so liable to iTin to seed, and they will be more hardy, and full as eaily as those raised in hot- beds in the spring. Or, if a heap of fresh horse manure be deposited on the ground intended for the raising of early plants before the ft'ost sets in, the same may be removed some mild day in January or February, and temporary frames made by driving stakes in the ground, and nailing planks or slabs thereto. The gi'ound being then dug, the seed sown, and covered up with sashes, will soon pioduce plants in perfection. The frames should be well protected, by placing the manure around them, and covering the tops with mats, boards, &c., as directed for hot-beds in the Calendar for February and March. CABBAGE. 55 It is customary with gardeners about New- York to raise their plants in hot-beds. In order to do this, the beds should be prepared, as directed in a future page of this book, (see Index,) so as to be ready to receive the seed by the latter end of February, or early in March. Plants thus produced, as well as those raised as before directed, will be fit to trans- plant about the middle of April, and should be carefully planted, with a suitable dibble, in good ground, from sixteen inches to two feet apart, according to size and kind : these by being hoed often, will produce good Cabbages in June. If seeil of the large early kinds be sown in a warm border, early in April, they will produce plants fit to transplant in May, which will make good Cabbages for summer use.* The seed of Red Cabbage may be sown toward the end of April or early in May, and that of Savoys and late Cab- bage in general, may be sown at two (jr three different times, between the middle and the end of May, in fi'esh rich ground. The most certain way of raising good strong plants in the summer season, is to sow the seed in a moderately shaded border, in shallow drills drawn three or four inches apart. One ounce of seed sown in this maimer, will occupy a bor- der of about four feet in width by twelve in length, and pro- duce about four thousand stout plants ; whereas, if seed be sown broad-cast, as is the usual custom, two ounces of seed * As numerous species of insects attack plants of the Braxsica or Cab- bage tribe, in every stage of their growth, great caution is necessary in their cultivation. For a prevention to the attacks of fleas or flies, see page 19 of the General Remarks. Perhaps the most effectual way of saving plants from grub-worms, is not to transplant any, during the month of June. Seed beds are very seldom attacked ; but if they should be, they may be protected by digging trenches around them, and throwing in lime, salt, or ashes, sufllicient to prevent the ingress of the worms. If seed of the vari- ous kinds be sown at the times recommended, the early varieties will he so far advanced in growth before the grub-worms prevail, as to be out of their reach ; and by the time the late sown plants are ready to transplant, the worms will lie harmless, because they turn gray toward the end of June, and by the middle of July, the time recommended for general transplanting, the danger from grub-worms is over. For the destruction of caterpillars, see General Remarks, page 20. 56 CABBAGE. may not produce so many good plants, as the one ounce on the plan recommended. The Bergen, and other large kinds, should be transplanted the second and third week in July, in rows thirty inches asunder, and the plants about two feet apart in the rows : the Savoys and smaller sorts may be planted about the same time, but from four to six inches nearer eveiy way. Cabbage succeeds best in a fresh rich soil, and the giound should be deeply hoed or ploughed, at least three times, during their gi'owth. The Brassica Rapa, or Turnip Cabbage, produces ks bulb, or protubeiance, on the stems above ground, immediately under the leaves. It is eatable when young, or about the size of a garden Turnip. The seed may be sown in April or May, and the plants afterward treated the same as Cabbage, only that in earthing up the plants you must be careful not to cover the globular part. They are much more hardy than Turnips. In England the bulbs often grow to upward of twenty inches in circum- ference, and weigh from ten to twelve pounds. They are cultivated for the feeding of cows and sheep, as well as for table use ; in either case they treat them as they do Cabbage, or sow them like Turnips, and afterward hoe them out to proper distances. The Brassica JYapus, or Tumip-rooted Cabbage, has an oblong thick root in the fonn of a winter Radish ; it is ex- tremely hardy, and will survive very hard frosts ; the seed should be sown in rich ground, and treated in every respect as Turnips, observing to thin the plants with a hoe to the dis- tance of sixteen inches apart. Their roots will be much larger and better when treated in this way, than if trans- planted. The Brassica JVapxis, variety escuhnta, is sometimes culti- vated as a salad herb. It is held in great esteem by the French as a culinary vegetable, and is called the Navet, or COLEWORT, OR COLLARDS. 57 French TurnijD. In France, as well as in Grermany, few great dinners are served up without it, in some shape or other. COLEWORT, OR COLLARDS. Chou vert. Brassica oleracea. This is a species of Cabbage which is eaten when young; it so nearly resembles the eai'ly kinds of Cabbage, that it is seldom cultivated. The English frequently sow the seed of early heading kinds of Cabbage as a substitute, which being done at different seasons, enables them to procure a supply of fresh greens from their gardens every day in the year. This is not attainable here, on account of the extremes of heat and cold ; but Collards would prove very valuable and acceptable, in the event of an unfavourable season for fall Cabbage. If the seed of Early York, Early Dutch, or other early kinds of Cabbage, be sown in June, July, and August, and tansplanted as they become fit, into good ground, from fif- teen to eighteen inches ajiart, the first planting would make good heads for fall use ; and the plants of late sowings, if transplanted in September and October, in a warm border, would produce tender, sweet-eating greens for use in the early part of winter j the latter plantings may be placed ten or twelve inches from plant to plant. These could be easily sheltered on the approach of severe weather, without being taken up. The cultivation of Collards is well adapted to our Southern States, as there they need no protection in winter. 58 . . CARROT. CARDOONS. Cardon. Cynara canluncnlus. The Cardoon Artichoke, a native of Candia, is mucli cul- tivated in Europe for culinary purposes, such as for salads, soups, stews, &c. The stems of the leaves being thick and crisp, are the eat- able parts, after being blanched. They are in perfection in autumn and winter. The seed may be sown in a bed of rich earth in the month of April ; and one ounce Avill produce about six hundred plants : when the plants are up strong, they should be thin- ned so as to leave them four or five inches apart, to prevent them from becoming weak. They may be transplanted in June, at the distance of four feet from each other every way ; observe, before planting, to dress their tops and roots the same as Celery. As they advance in growth, they are to be earthed up for blanching, keeping the leaves close together; this may be done with bass or matting, as practised with En- dive ; they are afterward to be earthed up gradually from time to time, until whitened to a sufficient height. As win- ter approaches, Cardoons must be taken up and laid away Uke Celery, or they may be preserved with sand in a cellar. CARROT. Carotte. Daucus carota. varieties. Early Orange. Long Orange. Altringham, Long Lemon-coloured. Blood Red. Long White. The CaiTOt is a native of Britain, and grows by the road- side in many parts. As a culinary vegetable, it is much used in soups and stews, and forms a dish with boiled beef, &c. The coarse sorts are cultivated as fodder for cows, sheep, oxen, and horses, and are considered profitable, as CARROT. 59 they frequently yield upward of four hundred bushels to an acre, when cultivated on the field system. For the garden, the Early Orange should be cultivated for spring and summer use ; but the Long Orange is more suit- able for main crops, on account of its bright orange colour, as well as for its great size and length. CaiTOts gi'ow to great perfection in a rich loamy soil, and may be raised in drills drawn about one inch deep, and twelve inches asunder. A small bed may be planted at the latter end of March for an early crop, and from that time to the end of May for suc- cessive croj^s ; but the principal crop should not be sown too soon, as the early plantings are apt to produce seed-stalks, and, consequently, stringy and useless roots. The most suitable giound for late Canots, is that which has been well manured for previous crops, and requires no fresh manure. If the seed be sown in June, and the plants thinned out to the distance of five or six inches from each other when young, and kept hoed, they will yield an abun- dance of fine roots for winter and spring use, by being taken up in autumn, and preserved either in sand in a cellar, or covered up in pits in a garden, as directed in the Calendar for Novembei". Although CaiTot seed is naturally small and light, it seldom fails to vegetate in favourable seasons ; it, therefore, need not be sown too thick in gi'ound not apt to produce weeds. If a root could be insured to grow unmolested in every instance where a seed may be deposited, two pounds would be moi"e than sufficient for an acre of land ; but gardeners generally use four or five pounds to the acre, in order that the I'ows may be more easily traced in the event of a luxuz'iant growth of weeds. To avoid risking an unequal crop in small gar- dens, half an ounce of seed should be allotted for every pole, perch, or rod, or twenty ounces for a rood of land. On light ground, the use of a roller would be beneficial in dry weather, excess of which is detrimental to the germination of Canot, as well as of all other light seed. 60 CELERY. ■ CELERY. Celeri. Apium graveolens. VARIETIES. White Solid. | New White Lion's Paw. Red-coloured Solid. | North's Red Giant. Celeriac, or Turnip-rooted. This vegetable, so much esteemed as a salad, is knovm in its wild state by the name of Smallage ; and is found in gi-eat abundance by the sides of ditches, and near the seacoast of Britain. The effects of cultivation are here strikingly exhi- bited, in producing from a i"ank, coarse weed, the mild and sweet stalks of the Celery. This circumstance should stimu- late the young gardener to aim at improvement in the culti- vation of plants in general. It is customary with some gardeners to raise their early plants in hot-beds ; but as plants thus raised are apt to pro- duce seed-stalks, it is much safer to cultivate them in cold- beds, prepared as directed for the raising of early Cabbage plants. The seed for a general crop may be sown the last week in March, or early in Ap7'il, in rich, mellow ground, and in a situation where the plants can be protected from the parching heat of a summer sun (a boi'der against a north aspect is the most suitable). Some sow the seed broad-cast, but the plants will be much stouter if raised in drills. The drills may be half an inch deep, and six inches apart, so that a small hoe can be worked between tlie rows ; and if pi-o- pei"ly attended to, every ounce of seed so sown will produce ten thousand strong plants or more. The early sown plants should be pricked out in a nui'sery bed of cool rich earth, as soon as they are two or three inches high, there to remain about a month, after which they will be fit to ti'ansplant into the trenches. Choose for this purpose a piece of rich ground, in an open exposure ; mark ovit the trenches by line, ten or twelve inches wide, and allow the space of three feet between them, which CELERY. 61 will be sufficient for tlie early plantations. Dig eacn trench a moderate spade deep, laying the dug-out earth equally on each side, between the trenches ; put three inches deep of very rotten dung in the bottom of each trench, then pare the sides, and dig the dung and paiings with an inch or two of the loose mould at the bottom, incoqiorating all well together, and put in the plants.* Pre\aous to planting, tiim the plants, by cutting off the long straggling leaves, and also the ends of the roots. Let them be planted with a dibble, in single rows, along the mid- dle of each trench, five or six inches between plant and plant ; as soon as they are planted, give them a plentiful watering, and let them be shaded until they strike root and begin to grow. The main crops may be planted in the same way, but in trenches four feet distant from each other, and an inch or two farther from plant to plant ; or in beds made in the fol- lowing manner, which, for the ease of preserving the plants in winter, will be found extremely convenient, besides a greater quantity can be raised on a given piece of ground. Lay out the gi'ound into beds four feet wide, with alleys between, three feet ; dig the beds a spade deep, throwing the earth on the alleys : when done, lay four or five inches of good, well-rotted dung all over the bottom of the beds, dig and incorporate it with the loose earth, and cover the whole with an inch or two of earth from the alleys ; plant four rows * Some gardeners are accustomed to cultivate Celery on the level ground ; others, after making their trenches in the usual way, go to the expense of carting peculiar soil from a distance, with which they replenish their trenches until nearly full. Those who have pursued the latter plan, say that they are rewarded for their trouble by gathering roots of superior size and quality ; but it is doubtful whether it would prove profitable to prac- tice this plan on an extensive scale. It may, however, be judicious in those gardeners, whose subsoil, or under stratum, is inferior, or ill-adapted for the growth of Celery, to cultivate it in sliallow drills, or furrows worked out with a plough, by which means they may secure good soil to plant in, and also to earth up with. In such cases the rows must be from four to five feet apart, and frequent ploughing between them would promote the growth of the plants, 6 62 CELERY, ill eacli bed at Cfjual distances, and from six to eight inches apart in the rows ; after which, give them a plentiful water- ing, and shade them. The plants must be hoed occasionally, until gTown of suf- ficient size for earthing, which is done with the assistance of boards, by laying them along the rows, to support the leaves while you are putting in the earth from the alleys, and re- moving them as you pi'ogress in the business. The earthing should never be done when the plants are wet, as this is apt to make the Celery iTisty, but should be jierformed gradually in fine weather as the plants progi'ess in growth, repeating the earthing every two weeks ; at which time care should be taken to gather up all the leaves neatly, and not to buiy the hearts of the plants. AVlien they are groAvn two feet high, and well blanched, they are fit for the table. As Celery will grow three or four feet high in one season, it will be necessary to delay the j^lanting of that which is in- tended for winter use until the latter end of July, but the trenches should always be got ready soon enough to avoid a serious drought, which often delays the planting till too late in the season. The blanching of Celery for winter use may be delayed until October. By market gardeners who raise Celery on a large scale, the trenches may be worked out with a plough, and finished with a spade or hoe. The ground may also be ploughed between each row of Celery previous to earthing it up ; tliis will save much labour. The Celeriac, or Tumip-rooted, may be planted either on level ground or in shallow drills ; the root of it swells like a Turnip, and may be preserved in sand through the winter. The French and Germans cut it in slices, and soak it a few hours in vinegar ; by such simple preparation, it becomes mellow as a pineapjile, and affords a delicious and veiy nour- ishing repast. CORN SALAD, OR FETTICUS. 03 CORN SALAD, OR FETTICUS. Mache ou doucette. Valeriana locusta. VARIETY. — Olitoria. Tins plant grows spontaneously in the corn-fields of Eng- land, lience it is called Corn Salad ; and from its being suf- ficiently hardy to stand the winter, and affording an early pasturage, it has acquired the appellation of Lamb's Lettuce. It is cultivated as a salad for winter and early spring use. The seed may be sown in rich, clean ground, the latter end of August or early in September. Some gardeners sow the seed in beds four or five feet wide, with paths between each bed, just sufficient to admit of room for hand-weeding ; but it will vegetate more freely if sown in drills half an inch deep, provided it be carefully covered. The drills may be about six inches apart, or just sufficient to admit a small hoe to work between the rows ; for if the plants are not cleared of all weeds while young, they will be more plague than profit. Fetticus must be covered up with straw at the approach of severe weather, to preserve it in good condition for use in the early part of the ensuing spring, as that is the season which most amply remunerates the cultivator. The seed of Fetticus is small and light, but it will admit of being sown thick, say at the rate of from four to six pounds to an acre of land. 64 .--■-.■: CRESS. . .. > CRESS. Cresson. Lapidium salivum. VARIETIES. Curled, or Peppcrgrass. 1 Broad-leaved Garden. Cress is a small salad herb, and is generally used with Lettuce, White Mustard, Rape, Chervil, &c. It may be soAvn very thick in little drills, as should salad seed in gene- ral, and cut before it comes into rough leaf. A small quan- tity in the salad season, which is spring and autumn, may be sown every week in rich ground, free from weeds. CRESS, (Water.) Cresson de fontaine. Sisymbrium nasturtium. The Water Cress is a creeping, amphibious perennial, and is grown very extensively for the London Markets. Loudon says, in his Encyclopcedia of Gardening, that " The most suitable description of water is a clear stream, not more than an inch and a half deep, running over sand or gravel ; the least favourable, deep, still water, or a muddy bottom. It is highly advantageous to make the plantations in newly-risen spring water, as the plants do not only thrive better in it, but, in consequence of its being rai'ely frozen, they generally con- tinue in vegetation, and in a good state for gatheinng, through the whole winter season. The plants are disposed in rows parallel with the coui'se of the stream, about eighteen inches apart. When these plants begin to grow in water one inch and a half deep, tliey soon check the cuiTent so as to raise the water to the height of three inches above the plants, which is considered the most favourable circumstance in which they can be placed. It is absolutely necessaiy to have a constant current, as where there is any obstruction to the stream, the plants cease to thrive. After they have been cut about three times, they begin to stock, and then the oftener they are cut the better. CUCUMBER. 65 CUCUMBER. CoNCOMBRE. Ciicwms sotivris, etc. VARIETIES. Early Frame. Early Green Cluster. Early Green Table. Long Prickly. Short Prickly. Long Green. Extra Long Green. Long White Turkey. White Spined. West India, or Gherkin. The Cucumis sativus, or common Cucumber, is a native of the East Indies, and of nearly as great antiquity as the vine. It was introduced into England in 1573, and is extensively cultivated in forcing frames, and in the open air. In March, they are sold in the London Markets for a guinea a dozen ; and in August and September for one penny per dozen. As Cucumbers are much used in New- York, it should be an object with gardeners to have them in the market early ; directions for raising them out of the ordinary season, are therefore given in a future page, under the head Forcing Vegetables; to which the reader is refen-ed. Cucumbers may be raised in the open ground by planting seed the first week of May, in hills four feet apart ; or if the ground be lififht, basins foiTned an inch below the level of the surface would be beneficial.* Previous to planting, the ground should be prepared by incoi-j^orating a shovelful of rotten dung with the earth in each hill, after which four or five seed may be planted half an inch deep. One ounce of good seed is suf- ficient for two hundred hills and upward. Cucumbers are liable to be attacked by a yellow fly, which sometimes devours young plants ; these and other insects may be killed by sowing tobacco dust, soot, powdered char- • The term hill is frequently made use of by gardeners and farmers, to designate a situation allotted for a given number of seed, whereas, such seed are more frequently deposited below the level of the surface than above it ; yet, as the plants progress in growth, hills are frequently formed around them, which makes the term applicable, or rather reconciles the apparent contradiction. 6* 66 EGG-PLANT. coal, and the like, round about the vines when they first come up, or by applying the liquid recommended in page 19 of the General Remarks. After this is done, the plants may be thinned to two or three in a hill, and the ground carefully hoed, drawing a little earth round them at the same time. The vines should be kept free from weeds, and if the weather proves dry, a gentle watering now and then, given in the evening, will be of considerable service. Picklerii may be raised by planting the seed at any time in July. When the vines begin to bear, they should be looked over, and the fruit gathered as soon as it becomes fit, as the plant will cease to bear much if the fruit be permitted to get yellow. CHIVES, OR GIVES. CiVETTE. Aliinm schcenoprasum. This is a small species of Onion, and grows in large tufts ; it is propagated by offsets from the roots, and may be planted either in spring or autumn, in rows ten or twelve inches a})art, and the bulbs three or four inches apart in the rows ; they wiU soon take r(3ot, and increase very fast, form- ing large bunches of bulbs. They make handsome edging for beds or borders. EGG-PLANT. Melongene au aubergine. Solantim melongena. VARIETIES. Purple, for cooking. I White, for ornament. The seed of the Puiple Egg-plant may be sown in a hot- bed about the first of March ; and the sashes must be kept down close until the plants come up, after which a little air EGG-PLANT. 67 may be given in the lieat of the day* Toward the middle of May, if the weather be warm and settled, the plants should be set out from twenty-four to thirty inches apart, in a rich, warm piece of gn'ound; and if kept clean, and a little earth be drawn up to their stems when about a foot high, they will produce plenty of fruit. Plants of the white variety may be riased in the same man- ner, and transplanted into pots in May; or if some of the seed be sown in a warm situation the first week in IMay, these may come to jierfection in the course of the summer. This variety, though generally cultivated for ornament, is good ■when cooked. f; As Egg plants will not gi'ow in the open ground until set- tled warm weather, and are apt to perish from being trans- planted too early, the gardener should be provided with small pots, in order that the plants may be transplanted therein early in May, and placed in a frame, there to remain until the first week in June, at which time, if they are turned out and planted, with the balls of earth entire, they will soon take root and grow freely. Select the fruit when at maturity; cut it into slices, and parboil it in a stewpan ; when softened, drain oif the water ; it may then be fried in batter made with wheaten flour and an egg, or in fresh butter with bread gi'ated fine and sea- soned before it is put in the pan, with pepper, salt, thyme, and such other herbs as may best suit the palate. Some use Marjoram, Summer Savory, Parsley, Onion, &c. • Egg-plant seed will not vegetate freely without substantial heat ; but with proper management, upward of four thousand plants may be raised from an ounce of seed. If these plants get the least cliilled in the earlier stages of growth, they seldom recover ; it is, therefore, important that the ft^ame allotted for them be placed over a well-regulated hot-bed, and partitioned oir, so that the sash can be kept down over the plants in cool weather. Some gardeners raise Egg-plants in the same frame with Cabbage, and such other half-hardy plants as require air every mild day ; by such man- a2,ement, one or the other must suiter for want of suitable aliment, heat being the principal food of tender plants, and air that of the more hardy species, 68 ENDIVE, OR SUCCORY. ENDIVE, OR SUCCORY. Chicoree des jardins. Cichoi-ium endiva, etc. VARIETIES. Green Curled. j Golden Yellow. White Curled. 1 Broad-leaved, or Scarolle. The Cichorium endiva is a native of China andJapan, and is much used in salads and stews, and as a garnish for the table. The proper kind of seed for early sowing is the Green Curled. A small quantity of this may be sown at different times in April and May, by those who would have it early. These crops will be very apt to run to seed ; for this reason, it will be best to delay the solving of seed for general crops until June, or July. If a small quantity of each esteemed variety be sown two or three times in these months, they will produce a plentiful supply for use in Autumn and the early part of Winter. One ounce of good Endive seed will produce about five tbousand plants. ^\^len the plants are three or four inches high, they should be transplanted into good ground, at the distance of a foot from each other, and immediately watered ; or if they are set out in cloudy or wet weather, it will save this trouble. The plants will requrie to be hoed and attended to in the same manner as Lettuce, until grown to a moderate size, when they must be blanched. Select the large and full-hearted plants, and with bass or other strings, tie them a little above the middle, not too tight, previously gathering up the leaves regularly in the hand. This must be done when the leaves are very dry, otherwise the plants will rot. The Cichorhim iniylms grows spontaneuosly in many parts of Europe and America. In France it is much cultivated ; the tops of the plants are considered profitable for cattle, and the roots are taken up in Autumn, and dried. The aromatic and volatile qualities of coffee are, by the combination of this root, ren- dered more mellow and full upon the palate, and its fragrance greatly increased, producing an agi'eeable tonic, and most cxhilaratintr beverasre. HORSE-RADISH. 69 Sow the seed in April in diills half an inch deep, and about eighteen inches apart ; thin out the plants to six or eight inches in tlie row. The plant produces beautiful blue flowers, and is worthy of a place in the flower garden. The roots when dried, I'oasted as coffee, and ground, may be mixed in the proportion of two ounces of the powder to a pound of coffee. HORSE-RADISH. Raifort. Cochlearia armoracia. This plant is propagated by cuttings from the root, either cut from the top about two inches long, or by offsets, or otherwise useless parts, from the sides of the main root, re- taining the crowns or top shoots in as many parts as possible. These should be planted as early in the spring as practicable, in rows two feet apart, and six or eight inches from each other in the rows. Select for the bed a good depth of soil, and such as will retain moistui-e, manure it with well-rotted dung, plough or dig it deep, and with a drilling machine or other convenient implement, draw drills a foot apart ; then plant with a dibble, cuttings as above described, in every alternate drill, from two to three inches deep. The intermediate drills may be planted with Beet or CaiTot seed, or that of any other root, but Tur- nip Beets are the most suitable to cultivate between the rows, as they will grow q^ick, and can be pulled out without dis- turbing the Horse-radish. The Beets must of course be thinned out while young, and kept cultivated by hoeing between the rows, which will also benefit the Horse-radish. After the Beets are pulled, hoe the gi-ound again, and keep it clear of weeds, by which method the bed may be cleared every year. Some cultivate Horse-radish in a permanent bed, in which case, if, in taking up the roots, some offsets be left in the gi-ound, they will produce a successive supply for future years. 70 JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE. INDIAN CORN. Mais. 'Z.ca mayz. VARIETIES. Early Dutton. Cobbet'.s Early Normandy. Early Tuscarora. Southern Horsetooth. Early Canadian. Early Golden Sioux. Sweet, or Sugar. Mottled and Curious Pearl. The different varieties of early Cora intended for boiling when young, or others as curiosities, may be planted in the garden the last week in April, or early in May, in hills four feet apart, or in drills. If some of each esteemed variety be planted in separate beds at the same time, they will come in for the table one after the other in regular succession. After this, if any particular variety be preferred, it may be planted at different times in the month of May and June. If the ground be poor, mix a shovelful of old manure with the earth in each hill before the seed are planted, and after the plants are up strong, scatter a tea-cup full of wood ashes around each hill. This, with attentive hoeing and hilling, will cause it to produce ears early. Deep digging or plough- ing between the hills is very beneficial when the corn is about eighteen inches high. JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE. Pomme de terue. Helianthus iuberosom. This plant is a native of America. The tubers of the root, which are generally abundant, were, before Potatoes became improved by cultivation, in gi'eat esteem, and are yet considered a fine flavoured and nutritious food, when boiled and mashed with butter. They may be easily propa- gated by cutting the roots into sets, with two eyes in each, and planting them in the same manner as Potatoes, in March and April. To have them in perfection, they should be hoed LEEK. 71 frequently, and the ground kept loose around them. In dig- ging them for use, care should be taken to gather them out clean, as the least paiticle left will grow the year following, and encumber the ground, without producing a crop worth standinsr. LEEK. PoiRREAU. Allium porrum. VARIETIES. Scotch, or Flag. I Large London. This is a wholesome and useful herb, and is so hardy as to endure the extremes of heat and cold without injury. The seed may be sown in March, or early in April, in a bed of rich earth, in drills about an inch deep, and a sufficient dis- tance apart to admit of a small hoe being worked between the rows, allo^ving one ounce of seed for every three thou- sand plants that may be required. If the ground be kept loose and clean around the plants, they will be fit to transplant in June, or early in July, and should be set out in good ground, in rows twelve inches asunder, and the plants five or six inches apart in the rows. They will gi'ow well in a wai'm border, which at this season is useless for many kinds of vegetables. After the plants have taken root, they should be frequently hoed, and kept free from weeds. Those who wish to have Leeks blanched, may plant them in ti-enches three or four inches deep, and as the plants in- crease in growth, the earth should be drawn by a hoe into the trenches. VARIETIES. ^ Early Silesia. =r Imperial, or Sugar Loaf. Pale Green, or Butter. a. ^ Grand Admiral. =r Large Summer Silesia. vq Paris Loaf Coss. 7S' LETTUCE. : ' LETTUCE. L.viTUE. Lactuca sativa crispa. Large Green Head- Dutch, or Cabbage. Tennis Ball, or Rose. Madeira, or Passion. Large Green Curled. Loco Foco. It would be easy to furnish a more extensive catalogue of Lettuce, as the varieties are numerous ; but as this is one of those kinds of vegetables that can only be raised in perfec- tion dui'ing mild and temperate weather, it is needless for the gardener to plant any in the open ground, but such as have been tested, and found to stand a tolerable degree of warm weather, which generally prevails in May and June, and consequently cuts short the salad season. Those who nave been accustomed to raise head Lettuce in any quantity, know the trouble of preparing the ground and planting, and the loss they would sustain if several thousand plants should run to seed just as they ajipeared to be perfecting for market. As this is often the case, even with the very best attention, I would caution gardeners to test such plants as they are not acquianted with, before they set out any quantity with a view to their heading.* The six varieties inserted in the first column of our cata- * It may be necessary here to remind the gardener, that iioisture is the most essential nutriment of Lettuce, and that the very best varieties may run to seed without forming heads, in the event of extreme warm weather. Those who put off the sowing of seed until May and June, instead of sowing it in March and April, as directed, may procure head Lettuce from some of their strongest plants, by transplanting them into rich ground as soon as they are an inch or two in heiglit, and the remainder, if left thin in the beds, may produce small heads, by stirring the earth around them with a small hoe, or weeding hook ; these are as good for family use as larger heads, and those persons who are fond of Lettuce may raise such through- out the summer ; but market gardeners seldom attempt it, unless they have a tract of moist, loamy soil, peculiarly adapted to the growth of head Lettuce, in any thing like a propitious season. LETTUCE. 73 logue have been known to stand our winters, and may be sown from the first to the middle of September, in lich ground, free from weeds ; they answer very well when sown with Spinach, and should be covered wdth straw at the ap- proach of severe weather. These plants, if transplanted into warm borders, or in the open ground, as early in March as the weather will permit, will produce fine heads early in the month of May. The best of the tender kinds of Lettuce should be so^^^l in moderate hot-betls early in March, and if transplanted into good gi-ound by the middle of April, will produce their heads before the approach of warm weather. Such kinds as are known to produce heads in hot weather, and also such as are intended to be cut as a small salad while young, may be sown in warm borders in March and April ; but those designed for heading should be transplanted as soon as they are an inch or two in height, and kept in a growing state by frequent hoeing, or they may run up to seed as the season advances. If it be an object with the gardener to have good strong Lettuce plants for transplanting, the seed should be sown very thin. One ounce of good seed is sufficient for a border of six feet in width by eighteen feet in length, and will pro- duce from ten to twelve thousand plants. All kinds of Lettuce intended for heading should be j^lant- ed in good gi'ound, twelve inches distant from each other every way ; the plants should be carefully hoed every othei week during their gi'owth ; the first hoeing should be done in about two weeks after they are transplanted. The Coss Lettuce requires to be blanched ; this is done by gathering up the leaves of the plants and tying bass round them, when grown to perfection. If Head Lettuce be required at other seasons than tho spring, it may be obtained in autumn by sowing seed in Au- gust, or in the winter by means of garden frames and glazed sashes. [See article on Forcing Vegetables.^ '74 MELON. MELON. Melon. Cucumis melo. Gieen-fleshed Citron. Murray's Pineapple. Green-fieshed Persian. Green-fleshed Nutmeg. VARIETIES. Large Yellow Cantcleupe. pomegranate, or Musk Scented. Skillman's Fine Netted. Snake, (curious.) The Melon is an exotic plant, giowing wild in Asia. It is cultivated in all the warm countries of Europe, and also in Afiica and America, where its salubiious and cooling fruit is generally esteemed. For the varieties of the Musk or Canteleupe Melons, pre- pare a piece of nch ground early in May ; manure it and give it a good digging ; then mark it out into squares of six feet every way ; at the angle of each square, dig a hole twelve inches deep and eighteen over, into which put about six inches deep of old rotten dung ; throw thereon about four inches of earth, and mix the dung and earth well with the spade ; after which draw more earth over the mixture, so as to form a circular hill about a foot broad at top. (For a de- finition of the term " hill," see article Cucuiuber.) When your hills are all prepared, plant in each, toward the centre, six or eight grains of seed, distant two inches from each other, and cover them about half an inch deep. One ounce of good Melon seed will plant about one hundred and twenty hills. When the plants are in a state of forwardness, producing their rough leaves, they must be thinned to two or three in each hill ; draw earth fi-om time to time round the hills, and about the roots of the plants. As soon as the plants have spread into branches, stop them by pinching off the top uf the first runner l)ud ; this will strengthen the plants, and pro- mote their perfecting the fruit early ; after which keep the ground perfectly free from weeds ])y frequent hoeing. There are many varieties of the Melon, highly esteemed WATEU MELON. 75 in Europe, which do not succeed in this country ; the gar- dener should, tlierefore, plant only such as have been tested and found to produce good fruit here, or our superior old sorts may become degenerate. After a judicious selection is made, if caution be not used to plant the different sorts remote from each other, and from Cucumbers, Squashes, and Gourds, degeneracy will infallibly be the consequence. To prevent the ravages of flies, &c., see General Remarks, pages 19 and 20. WATER MELON. Melon d'eau. Cucurbita citrullus. VARIETIES. New Jersey. ] Goodwin's Imperial. Carolina. I Citron, for preserves. The Water Melon, though by some considered a species of the former, is a distinct genus of exotic plants. They afford a very refreshing article of luxury in our warm sum- mers. Dr. Pallas, in the account of his journey to the southern provinces of Russia, in 1793 and '94, speaking of a colony of Moravians in Sarepta, or Sapa, on the River Volga, says, " The ingenious inhabitants of this town brew a kind of beer from their very abundant and cheap Water Melons, with the addition of Hops ; they also prepare a conserve or marmalade from this fruit, which is a good substitute for syrup or treacle." In order to have Water Melons in perfection, you must fix upon a piece of very rich light soil ; prepare, plant and manage it in every respect as is directed for Musk Melon, only, let the hills be seven or eight feet distant every way. One ounce of seed will plant from foity to fifty hills. 76 NASTURTIUM, OR STURTION. MUSTARD. MouTARDE. Sinapis. VARIETIES. White. I Black. The Alba, or Wliite Mustard, gi'ows spontaneously in the fields of England ; it is also cultivated as a small salad, as well as for seed. The seed yields from eveiy hundred pounds, from thirty-three to thirty -six pounds of sweet mild oil. White Mustard Seed is much used as a medicine, and per- sons subject to disordered stomachs often derive great benefit by taking a spoonful of the dry seed, two or three tim.es a day Some use it in pickles, to which it imparts an agreeable fla- vour, and renders Cucumbers in particular more salutary. The J\'igra or Common Mustard, is also a native of England. The condiment called Mustard, and in daily use at our table is prepared from the seed of this species. The seed, of each variety, may be sown in clean rich ground in April and May ; and for a fall salad in September in shallow drills. NASTURTIUM, OR STURTION. Capucine. Tropceolum. This is an annual plant, a native of Peru, ajid is highly deserving of cultivation for the sake of its brilliant orange and crimson coloured flower, as well as for the berries, which, if gatheix'd while green and pickled in vinegar, make a good substiute for capers, and are used in melted butter, with boiled mutton, &;c. The seed should be sown in April, or early in May, in drills about an inch deep, near fences or pales ; or trellises should be constructed, on which they can climb and have support, for they will always be more productive in this way than when suffered to trail on the ground. ONION. 7^ OKRA. GoMBO. Hibiscus esctdentus. The green capsules of this plant are used in soups, stews, &c., to which they impart a rich flavour, and are considered nutritious. Its ripe seed, if burned and ground like coffee, can scarcely be distinguished therefrom. The seed should be planted in good rich ground, the first or second week in May, if settled warm weather, but not otherwise, as it is a very tender vegetable. Draw drills about an inch deep, and three or four feet asunder, into which drop the seed at the distance of six or eight inches from each other, or rather drop two or three in each place, lest the one should not grow and cover them nearly an inch deep. As the plants advance in growth, thin them out, earth them up two or three times, and they will produce abundantly. ONION. OiGNON. Allitim cepa, etc. etc. VARIETIES. New England White. Large Red. YelJow, or Silver Skinned. Yellow Dutch. Strasburgh, or Flanders. Madeira. Of the several varieties of Onions, the Yellow or Silver Skinned, and targe Red, are the best for a general crop. The bulbs are handsome, of firm growth, and keep well through the winter. The New England White are handsome for the table, and very suitable for pickling, as well as to pull while young, and generally prove a very profitable crop. Pievious to sowing Onion seed for a general crop, the ground should be well prepared by digging in some of the oldest and strongest manure that can be got. The earlier this be done in the spring, the better, and the planting should 7* 78 ONION. not be delayed longer than the middle of April. The seed may be sown moderately thick, in drills one inch deep and twelve inches apart.* Those who cultivate Onions for the sake of their bulbs, may use at the rate of four or five pounds of seed per acre. As market gardeners, in the vicinity of large cities, find it most profitable to pull a gieat proportion of their Onions while young, they generally require at the rate of from eight to ten pounds of seed to an acre of land. When the plants are uj) strong, they should be hoed. Those beds that are to stand for ripening, should be thinned out while young, to the distance of two or three inches from each other. If a few should be required for use after this, those can be taken which incline more to tops than roots ; and if the beds be frequently looked over, and the small and stalky plants taken away where they stand thickest, the remaining bulbs will grow to a larger size. The })]ants should be hoed at least three times in the early part of their growth ; but if the season pi'ove damp, and weeds vegetate luxuriantly, they must be removed by the hand, because after the Onions have begun to bulb, it would injure them to stir them with a hoe. When the greenness is gone out of the tops of Onions, it is time to take them up ; for from this time the fibious roots decay. After they are pulled, they should be laid out to dry, and when dry, lemoved to a })lace of shelter. The small Onions may be planted in the following spring. Even an Onion which is partly rotten will produce good bulbs, if the seed stems be taken off as soon as they appear. * Onion seed may be sown at any time from March to September, but those only can be depended upon for ripi^nin<;, which are sown in the first and second spring months. It is a sinjiular Cart, tliat Onions will not ripen later than August or the early part of :>-eptemher, however warm the weather may be ; they can. however, he preserved in the place where they grow, by spreading some short dung ovf>r them in autumn, just suflicient to prevent their pursing out of the ground in winter. Onions thus pre- served, often prove more profitable to market gardeners in the spring, than crops which ripen ; because ripe Onions are then scarce, and green ones prove a good substitute for Shallots, Welsh Onions, Leeks, &c. PARSLEY. 79 The Allium fistuloswn, or Welsh Onion, is cultivated for spring salad ; it forms no bulbs, but is very hardy. If the seed be sown early in September in rich ground, although the tops may die down in the winter, yet the roots will con- tinue sound, and put up new leaves early in the spring. The Allium cepa, or common White and Red Onions, are most generally cultivated by market gardeners as a substitute for the Allium Jisialosum ; they sow the seed in the spring and autumn months, the product of which is pulled and sent to the mai ket while young, and generally meets with a leady sale. The Allium prolifenim, or Tree Onion, is propagated by planting the bulbs in spring or autumn, either the root bulbs, or those produced on the top of the stalks ; the latter, if planted in the spring, will produce fine Onions. These may be planted in rows with a dibble, the same as Shallots. The Potato Onion, Allium hibe^-osum, does not produce seed as other Onions, but it increases by the root. One sin- gle Onion, slightly covered, will produce six or seven in a clump, partly under ground. The bulbs are generally planted in the spring, from twelve to eighteen inches apart, but they will yield better when planted in autumn, as they will survive the winter if slightly covered with dung, litter, or leaves of trees, &c. PARSLEY. Persil. Apium pelroselinum. VARIETIES. Dwarf Curled. I Pinsle. or Common. Extra Curled. | Large Rooted Hamburg. Parsley is a hardy biennial plant, and grows wild in moist climates, but has been greatly improved by cultivation. The leaves of the Common Parsley are used as a pot herb, and 80 PARSLEY. tliose of the Exti-a Curled kinds make a fine garnish. The Large Rooted are generally cooked for the table in autumn and winter, like Parsnips. As Parsley seed, sown late in the season, is apt to lay in the ground some time before it vegetates, and often fails in dry weather, the general crop should be sown in a cool situation by the early part of April, in drills an inch deep, and one foot asunder, allowing at the rate of about six or seven pounds of seed to the acre, or two ounces for every three perches of land.* After the plants are up, let them be kept clean by frequent hoeing. The Large Rooted Parsley should be thinned out while young, and managed the same as Carrots and Parenips. In order to have Parsley green through the winter, the old leaves should be picked off in September. If some of the roots be taken up early in November, and laid in a frame, or light cellar, the leaves will keep green a long time ; the remainder may be covered up with straw in the place where it grows. If Parsley seed be sown in frames in spring or summer, it may be pieseiTed for winter use without the trouble of removing it. * It frequently happens that Paisley seed will remain in the ground three or four weeks, without showing any signs of vegetation, and in the event of extreme dry weather, is apt to decay for want of its most essen- tial aliment — moistuue. A few grains of Long Radish seed, sown about an inch apart in each drill, arc well adapted to promote the growth of Parsley; because Radish seed being quick in germinating, will open the pores of the earth ; and the plants, as they progress in growth, will create a shade, sufficient to protect the Parsley from the full rays of the su«. PARSNIP. SX PARSNIP. Panais. Pastinaca sativa. VARIETIES. Long Guernsey Cup. I Large Dutch, or Common. This is a hardy biennial plant, common in calcareous soils ; it has long been an inmate of the garden, and forms a vegetable dish in the winter, with salt meat, salted fish, &c. Parsnip seed may be planted from the middle of March till the middle of May, in drills one inch deep and fourteen inches apart ; and as this vegetable requires a long season to grow in, the sooner the seed is planted the better. Pars- nips gi'ow best in a deep soil, which has been well manured the preceding fall. Sow the seed thick along the drills, at the rate of five or six pounds per acre, and rake them in evenly.* When the plants are two or thi-ee inches high, thin them to the distance of six or eight inches in the rows. They should be kept free from weeds, by regular hoeing through the summer, and in autumn they will be fit for use ; but they improve in flavour after having been frozen, and will endure the severity of a hard winter. See Calendar for November. Parsnips require from thirty to forty minutes boiling, ac- cording to their size and age. Some boil them in water seasoned with, salt, until tender ; but they are better when boiled with salt pork, and afterward mashed and fried in butter. * The Parsnip, although when in full growth it will endure the extremes of heat and cold, requires peculiar management to promote and preserve germination in an early stage of culture. In order to give the seed a fair chance, it should be planted in ground susceptible of moisture, and not apt to encrust when dry. The seed should be dropped thick alonjr the drills, and well covered, as single or solitary plants are apt to perish, from not having sufficient strength to open the pores of the earth, and in the event of drought such plants die off prematurely. If cultivated in hght ground, it should be rolled or pressed immediately after depositing the seed tlicrein, but this should not be done while the earth is wet. A few grains of Long Radish seed, sown in each drill as directed for Parsley, will also prove beneficial to Parsnips. 52 PEPPER. PEPPER. PojVRE ou piMENT. Capsictim. VARIETIES. Grossum, or Bell I'epper. i Long Red, or Bird's Bill. Tomato-shaped, or '■"quash. | Cherry, or West Indian. Sweet Spanisli; used as a salad, lias a very delicate taste. This family of plants are natives of the East and West Indies ; some of their capsules, or pods, are yellow, and others red, when at maturity ; they are much used for pick- ling, and should be gathered for that purpose before they are fully ripe. The seed of the different kinds of Capsicums may be sown in a hot-bed in March, or on a warm border, early in May. One ounce of seed will produce about three thousand plants. When the plants arrive at the height of from one to two inches, they should be transplanted into good rich ground, from eighteen inches to two feet distant from each other. Those who do not want Peppei's early in the season, may sow seed in the open ground in May, in drills two feet asun- der, and half an inch deej). When the plants are grown an inch or two high, thin them to the distance of fifteen or eighteen inches in the rows. The ground should be after- ward hoed deep round the plants, and kept free from weeds by repeated hoeings. The Capsicum Gyossmn, or Bell Pepper, is perennial, and will keep in perpetual bearing in warm climates. In Eng- land this species is considered superior to all others, on ac- count of its skin being thick, and also pulpy and tender; the plants are therefore frequently preseiTed in liot-houses dur- ing the winter and spring, and kept in the open air in settled warm weather. PEA. 83 PEA. Pois. Pisum saiiviim. Early Cedo Nulli, or Race Horse, 3 ft. Early Frame, 2 to 3 feet. Early Warwick, 3 feet. Early Washirii^ton, 3 foet. Early Charlton, 3 feet. Double Blossom Frame, 3 feet. Bishop's Karly Dwarf 2 feel VARIETIES. Groom's Dwarf Blue Prolific, 4 ft. Dwarf Blue, Prussian, 2 to 3 feet. Dwarf Marrowfat, 3 to 4 feet. Ladies' Finger Marrows, 4 feet. Matchless Marrowfat, 6 feet. Knight's Tall Marrow, 6 feet. Kniiiht's Dwarf Marrow, 3 feet. Dwarf Prolific, or Strawberry, 2 feet.j Woodford's (ireen Prolific, 6 feet. Dwarf Spanish, or Fan, 1 to 2 feet. I Lari;e Grey Rouncival, 4 feet. Early Nimble Dick, 3 feet. [ Dwarf Suirar, (eatable pods,) 3 feet. Dwarf Blue Imperial, 2 to 3 feet. j Tall Crooked Pod Sugar, 6 feet. Waterloo Blue, 4 foet. i French Bouquet, or Sugar, 3 to 4 ft Albany Field, in varieties. ■ The above list and description of the most esteemed kinds of Pea are taken from the catalogue of Mr. G. C. Thorbiirn. If they are rightly described, they will grow to different heights, according to soil and season. This description, however, may serve as a guide for the gardener in planting. The Dwarf Pea require less distance between row and Jo\v, and shorter sticks than the tall kinds. Planting the early kinds of Pea should commence as soon in the spring as the ground can be brought into good condi- tion ; all the other sorts, as well as the early, will answer for successive crops ; to obtain which, a few of the most esteemed varieties should be planted at the same time every two weeks, from March until the end of May. Persons desirous of having Peas tliroughout the summer and autumn, may plant a few in June, July, and August. In dry weather the Peas should be soaked in soft water five or six hours before })lant' ing, and if the ground be very dry, it should be watered in the drills. Gardeners practice different modes of planting Peas. Some plant them in ridges, others in drills, some in single rows, others in double ; some use sticks for the dwarf kinds, and others not ; those who study neatness should, however, 84 PE.4, have them all rodded, though the most dwarfish may do without. All the different sorts of Pea may be planted in double or single rows, from four to six feet apart, accordmg to the different heights they may be expected to grow. If two dnlls be inade tlu-ee inches deep, and about nine inches apart, and the seed dropped along each drill moderately thick, they will yield better than single rows, and will save sticks. When the plants are two or three inches high, let them be hoed, dra\\ing, at the same time, a little earth up to their stems ; when they get to double that height, let them be hoed again ; at the same time, place a low of sticks in the middle of your double rows, and a few shorter and smaller ones on the outside of each row, to assist the Peas in climb- ing to their main support. You must be governed as to the length of your sticks by the description of your Peas. There is great advantage in having sticks of a suitable height to the vaiious kinds of Peas ; the sticks should not only be suf- ficiently tall, but also branchy, that the plants may readily take hold ; and they should be prepared fan fashion, so that the side branches may extend only along the rows. As the plants jirogress in growth, let them be repeatedly hoed and earthtM.1 up ; this will promote a plentiful bearing. One quart of Peas will plant from one hundred and fifty to two hundred feet of row, allowing the largest kinds to average one inch apart, and the smallest, two peas to the inch. If cultivated on the field system, one bushel will plant an acre of land, and produce about a hundred bushels of green Peas. To have green Peas in perfection, they should be gathered while young, and cooked immediately after they are shelled, or they will soon lose their colour and sweetness. Let tlie water be slightly seasoned with salt, and boiled ; then put in the Peas with a small bunch of Spear Mint, and ease the cover so as to let ofl" the steam ; they require about fifteen minutes boiling, or five minutes more or less, according to POTATO. 85 the age and care bestowed. Taste and try in time, so as to have them done to a nicety. The Sugar Peas have no inner tough film, or skin, to the pods, Hke the common sorts ; they should therefore be boiled without shelling, and served up the same as Kidney Beans. POTATO. PoMME DE TERRE. Solanum Tuberosum. The Potato is known to be a native of the southern parts of America, but has been greatly improved by cultivation. The varieties being very numerous, it is unnecessary for me to point out any particular kinds ; some of the earliest should, however, be planted first in the spring, to produce young Potatoes in due season ; but they are not so suitable for a full crop as the late varieties. Potatoes being of such extensive utility, various expedients have been contrived with a view to find out the best method of preparing the seed. In many parts of England, (where Potatoes equal to any in the world are raised,) the farmers seldom plant them whole ; they take the Potatoes as they come to hand, and in cutting them, take care to have two good eyes in each set ; the small Potatoes are deprived of the sprout or nose end, as it is generally considered that a redundancy of eyes exhausts the set, and produces weak plants, which are not calculated to yield a full crop. I have frequently known from five to six hundred bushels raised from an acre with small Potatoes alone cut in this way. Some prefer planting the sets immediately after they are cut ; the better way is to get them cut a week before the time of planting, and to lay them out on a barn, or garret floor, to dry. It will requii'e from twelve to sixteen bushels of Potatoes to plant an acre of ground, according to the size and nature 8 SG POTATO. of the seed roots, the manner of preparing, and mode of planting the same. Potatoes may be planted from the first week in April until July, either in hills or tlrills ; the best way for a garden is to plant them in drills four or five inches deep, and about thirty inches asunder ; the sets may be dropped six or eight inches apart; and if a small quantity of combmaher's horn shavings or sea weed be used as a manure for the early kinds, it will expedite their growth ; the ground should be hoed as soon as the plants come up, and as they progress in growth it will be proper to mould or earth them up twice. POTATO, (Sweet.) POMME DE TEP.RE DOUCE. CoilVoIvilhlS bofttklS. Sweet Potatoes are grown to great perfection in the Southern States, and may be raised in the vicinity of New- York, by means of a moderate hot-bed, in which they should be planted whole, early in Aj-ril, three or four inches deep, and about the same distance apart. In about a month they will throw up sprouts. AV^lien these are three inches above gi'ound, jiart them off" from the Potato, which, if suffered to remain, will produce more spi'outs for a successive planting; transplant them into rich light soil, in rows four feet apart, and the ]ilants about a foot apart in the rows, or in hills four feet apart. Keep them clear of weeds until the vines begin to cover the ground, after which they will grow fieely. In sandy ground, it is well to j^ut a shovelful of rotten manure to each plant. A moderate hot-bed, five feet square, put down early in the month of April, with half a peck of good sound Sweet Potatoesplaced therein, will pioduce a succession of sprouts in May and June, which if planted and managed as directed, will yield about fifteen bushels of good roots. PUMPKIN. 87 PUMPKIN. CiTRouiLLE ou PoTiRON. CucuvbHa pepo. VARIETIES. Finest Cheese, or Family. I Connecticut Field. Mammoth, or Spanish. j White Bell. This plant is highly deserving of cultivation, particularly in new settlements ; the large sorts are profitable for cattle, as some of the mammoth tribe have been known to weigh upward of two hundred pounds each ; the other kinds are also very productive, and may be raised on any waste land, provided it will admit of digging small spots, of the dimen- sions of one or two feet, every ten or twelve feet, f(jr the hills, and the residue of the ground be unencumbered for the plants to run on. They are generally raised, on culti- vated farms, between hills of Indian Com, and may be planted in the garden or open field, in May and June, in hills eight or ten feet apart, with three or four seed in each hill. One quart of Field Pumpkin seed will plant from five to six hundred hills. An ounce of the finer kinds will plant from fifty to eighty hills. Pumpkins are not so tenacious of a particular soil as cither Melons or Cucumbers, but in other respects are cultivated in the same manner, only that in raising them on a large scale the ground may be prepared with a plough, and afterward, as the weeds advance, the plough and harrow may be used between the plants until they begin to run, which will save much labour. The finest quality of Pumpkins are known to make good pies, and may also, after being boiled, be worked up with wheaten flour into bread, for which purpose they are fully equal to Indian meal. The knowledge of this fact may prove advantageous to farmers living at a distance from cities, as they may find a market for their grain or meal readier than for their Pumpkins. 88 RADISH. RADISH. Radis ov Rave. Raphanus sativus. VARIETIES. Long Scarlet. Long Purple. Scarlet, Pear-shape. Scarlet Turnip. While Turnip-rooted. Long White Naples. Purple Turnip. Yellow Turnip. White Spanish. Black Spanish. The different varieties of Radish are extensively cultivated near large cities, chiefly for their roots, which are considered a luxury after a hard winter, and prove acceptable as warm weather approaclics, provided they can be obtained in per- fection. The plant is also cultivated for the sake of the seed leaves, which are used as a small salad ; and even the seed pods, if pickled while young and green, are considered by some a good substitute for Capers. Those who may be desiious of having good Radishes early in the spring, should have a warm border prepared in the very best manner, so as to be ready to sow some of the Short Top Scarlet by the miildle of March. If the ground should not be in good condition to receive the seed at this time, let it be delayed a few days ; and by the first of April, have another bed prepared in the open ground, by digging in some goportion of coal, wood, peat, or soapers' ashes. Ground that has been well manured for preceding crops, and also ground fresh broken up, will do well f(}r Turni])s. It is important that particular attention be paid to the time of sowing the seed ; for if the first crop be not sown soon enough to be gathered early ui July, they are seldom fit for the table, being hot, stiingy, and wormy; and if the crop in- tended for autumn and winter use is sown before August, unless it be a very favourable season, if they even escape the attacks of insects and reptiles, they often get so defective, that they seldom keep through the winter.* To have Tuniips in perfection, they should be hoed in about a month after they are sown, or by the time the plants have spread to a circle of about four inches, and again about a month from the first hoeing, leaving them from six to nine iTiclies apart. They will yield the cultivator more profit when treated in this way, than when left to nature, as is too frequently done. ♦ Previous to sowing Turnip seed, the gardener should procure a suitable quantity of lime, soot, or tobacco dust, so as to be prepared for the attacks of insects. It should be recollected that Turnip seed will sometimes sprout within forty-eight hours after it is sown, and that very frequently whole crops are devoured before a plant is seen above ground. A peck of either of these ingredients, mixed with about an equal quantity of ashes, or even dry road dust, scattered over the ground, morning and evening, for the first week after sowing the seed, would secure an acre of ground, provided the composition be used in such a way that the wind carry it over the whole plot ; and as the wind often changes, this end ujay be elTected by crossing the land in a dilferent direction each time, according as the wind may serve. If gardeners who raise Radishes, Cabbage, and such other vegetables as are subject to the attacks of insects, were to pursue this course, they would siive themselves from considerable loss, TURNIP. 105 It is generally admitted that one pound of Turnip seed is amply sufficient for an acre of ground, yet some will use considerably more, because of the difficulty of distributing so small a quantity of seed regularly broad-cast. This difficulty is, however, obviated by sowing the seed in drills ; and al- though it may seem a tedious process to those who have no other means of doing it than by hand, the facilities thus af- forded of hoeing between the rows, more than compensate for the extra labour. I once induced a friend of mine to sow four ounces of Turnip seed, in August, in^ drills a foot apart, by which means he made it extend over more than half an acre of land ; and by hoeing the plants twice, he had the gratifica- tion of pulling four hundred bushels of handsome Turnips, which is more than is generally taken from an acre of land cultivated in the ordinary way. If seed of the Russia or Swedish Turnip be sown in drills, any time in the month of July, or even early in August, they will produce fine roots toward the end of October, pro- vided the land be good, and well worked. When the plants are up strong, they must be hoed and thinned to the distance of twelve or fifteen inches from each other ; another hoeing will be necessary in five or six weeks afterward. This will make them grow freely. If cultivated in the field, frequent ploughing between the rows will be beneficial. The Turnip is a favourite vegetable with some, and in England, a leg of mutton and caper sauce is considered by epicures as but half a dish without mashed Turnips. To have them in perfection, they should, after having been de- prived of their jind, be equalized by cutting the largest trans- versely in the centre, and then, after being boiled tender, let them be taken up, and pressed as dry as possible ; at the same time, let a lump of butter and a due proportion of Cayenne pepper and salt be added, and be beaten up with the Turnips until pi-operly mixed. Use the natui'al gravy from the meat unadulterated, and such condiment as may be most esteemed. 106 ' AROMATIC, POT, Am) SWEET HERBS. AROMATIC, POT, AND SWEET HERBS. Graines d'Herbes Aromatiques, odoriferantes et a l'uSAGE DE la CUISINE. Angelica, Garden, Angelica atropurpurea^ Anise, Pimpinella anisiim. Basil, Sweet, Ocynmm basilicum. Borage, Borago officinalis. Burnet, Garden, Puiurium sanguisorba. Caraway, Carum carui. Chervil, or Cicely the Sweet, Scandix odorata eerefolium. Clary, Salvia sclara. Coriander, Corinndnnn sativum, I>ill, Anetkiim graveolens, * Fennel, Common, ' Anethum foenicttlum. * Fennel, Sweet, Anethuin dtilce. Marigold, Pot, Calendula officinalis. * Marjoram, Sweet, Origanum marjorana. * Mint, Spear, Mentha virides. * Mint, Pepper, Mentha piperita. * Mint, Penniroyal, Mentha pulegium. * Sage, Common, Salvia officinalis. * Sage, Red, Salvia clandestinoides. Savory, Summer, Satureja hortensia. * Savory, Winter, Satureja montana. * Tarragon, Artemisia dracunculus- * Thyme, Common, Thymus vulgaris. * Thyme, Lemon, Thymus serpyllum. Aromatic Herbs are such as impart a strong spicy odour and savoury taste ; many of them are used as small pot herbs^ and for sauces, stuffings, and other uses in cooking. As only a small quantity of these are necessary in private gardens, a by-corner may be allotted for them, and such medicinal herbfj as may be wanted in a family. It may be necessary to explain, as we go along, that there are three princij^al descriptive names given to plants, namely, Annuals, Biennials, and Perennials. The Annuals being but of one season's duration, nre raised every year from seed. The Biennials are raised fi'om seed one year, continue tiTl be second, then perfect their seed, and soon after die; some of these should also be raised every year from seed. The Perennials may be raised from seed, but when once raised, fhey will continue on the same roots many years. Those MEDICINAL HERBS. 107 marked * are of the latter description, and may be propagated by suckers, offsets, cuttings, or parting the roots. Those who have not already a plantation of these herbs, may sow the seed of any of the different kinds in April or May, in drills about half an inch deep, and twelve inches apart, each kind by itself. The plants may afterward be transplanted into separate beds ; or, if a drill for each kind be drawn two feet apart, the seed may be sown in them, and the plants afterward thinned out to proper distances, according to the natural growth of the different kinds of plants. PLANTS CULTIVATED FOR MEDICINAL AND OTHER PURPOSES, Graines de Plantes Medicinal. Bene, Boneset, or Thoroughwort, • Balm, Bean, Castor Oil, Burdock, Catnap, Celandine, • Chamomile, • Comfrey, • Elecampane, Feverfew, • Horehound, • Horsemint, • Hyssop, • Lavender, Lovage, • Mallow, Marsh, • Motherwort, • Patience Dock, • Pinkroot, Carolina, Poppy Opium, (annual,) • Rosemary, • Rue, Garden, Saffron, Bastard, Skullcap, or Mad Dog Plant, Snakeroot, Virginian, » Sorrel, Sesamum orientate. Eupatorium perfoliatum. Melissa officinalis. Reciniis communis, Arciiurn lappa- Nepeta cataria. Chelidonum majus. Anthemis nobilis. Symphytum officinale. Inula helenium. Chrysanthemum parthenium. Marubiam vulgare. Monarda punctata. Hyssopus officinalis. Lavendula spica. Ligusticum levisticum. Althea officinalis. Leonurus cardiaca. Runiex patentia. Spigelia Marylandica. Papaver somniferum. Rosmarinus officinalis. Ruta graveolens- Carthamus tinctorius. Scutellaria lateriflora. Arisiolochia serpeniaria. Rumex acetosa. 108 AROMATIC IIKRIJS, ETC. * Southernwood, Artemisia ahmfaniim. * Speedwell, Virginian, Veronica Virginica. * Spikenard, Araliu rucemnsa. * Tansy, Tanacetum vulf^are. * Wormwood, Artemisia absinthium. The generality of Aromatic, Sweet, and Medicinal Herbs may be raised from seed sown in April and May. The gi'eater part of the above-mentioned plants are Perennial, and will multiply from the seed they drop, or from partings from the roots. The offsets, I'oots, or young plants thus raised, should be planted at suitable distances from each other early in the spring. The beds should afterward be kept free from weeds, and as the herbs come into flower, they should be cut on a dry day, and spread in a shady place to dry, for winter use. The best way to preserve them after they are dried, is to rub them so as to pass them through a sieve, then pack them in bottles or boxes, each kind by itself; they should be after- ward kept in a dry place. In the month of October, the herb beds should be exam- ined. Lavender, Rosemary, and other tender plants, should be taken up, potted, and placed in a frame or greenhouse for the winter. Thyme, Hyssop, Winter Savory, Southern- wood, Sage, Rue, and the like, will require their tops to be neatly dressed ; and Pot Marjoram, Buinet, Tarragon, Tansy, Penniroyal, Sorrel, Chamomile, Fennel, Horehound, Mint, Lovage, and other kinds of hardy Perennial Herbs, should be cut down close to the ground. After this is done, it will be proper to dig lightly, and loosen the ground between the roots of the shrubby jilants ; but the beds of close-growing running ])lants, such as Mint, Running Thyme, and all other creeping lierbs, will not well admit of digging ; therefore, after the stalks are cut down, and the beds cleared of weeds, dig the alleys, and''Strew some of the loose earth evenly over the beds ; and if the ground be rather poor or light, a top dressing of very rotten dung will be of considerable service. PLAN OF BEDS, ETC. J 109 This dressing will give proper nurture and protection to the roots of the jilants, a neat appearance to the garden, and in spring the slioots will rise with renewed vigour. Having finished the Catalogue, I will now proceed to give directions for making the most of a piece of ground well manured for early crops. In the general directions at the commencement, I observed that good lich manure was indis- pensably necessary to the production of some particular kinds of vegetables ; it may be farther observed, that rich ground will produce two or three valuable crops, but it re- quires some attention, to make use of it to the best advan- tage. If the gardener has leisure to dig such ground in March or April, as he intends for Beans, Cucumbers, Toma- toes, Egg-plants, or other tender plants, he may raise Ra- dishes, Spinach, Lettuce, or other small salads on it, by leav- ing a space for his hills or drills ; or Radish seed may be sown lightly over the beds of Beets, Carrots, Parsnips, &c., but they must not be suffered to run to seed, as this would injuie the other plants. When the first crops are gathered, it requires a little consideration before a second is planted, in order that a sufficient quantity of the best ground may be reserved for the most paiticular and valuable varieties of vegetables. That I may be understood, I have adopted the following plans, representing beds of earth ; this will answer the same purpose as bringing my readers on the giound. No. 1. The following lines represent drills six inches apart. March 25.- —Sow Parsley, Onion, or other small seed. March 25. — Sow Radish sppcl. March 25. —Sow Parsley, Onion, or other small seed. The Radishes being pulled early in May, leaves the inter- mediate ground for the other plants. 10 110 PLAN OF BEDS, ETC. No. 2. Drills ten inches apart. April 1. — Sow Spinach, or Radish seed. April 15. — Plant early Cabbage Plants. April 1. — Sow Spinach, or Radish seed. By the time the Cabbage requires the whole of the ground, the Spinach or Radishes may be gathered. If this bed be cleared of the second crop by the middle of July, it may be planted with Celery, Turnip, or Black Radish seed. If the Cabbage be of the late-heading kinds, the giound may be reserved for the first sowing of Spinach, Fetticus, Lettuce, &c., in which case it will require a fresh coat of manure No. 3. Drills twelve inches apart. March 20. — Plant slips or cuttings of Horse-radish. March 20. — Plant Turnip-rooted Beet seed. March 20. — I'Innt slips or cuttings of Honse-railish. If required, a light crop of Radishes may be raised on this bed, which should be pulled while young. Hoe and thin out the Beets as they progres.s in growth, and when full grown, they may be gathered, without disturbing the Horse-radish. [See article Horse-radisJi.] PLAX OF BEDS, ETC. Ill No. 4. Rows, or drills, fourteen inches apart. March 20- — Plant hardy Lettuce plants. March 20. — Pant hardy Lettuce plants. Hoe them the first week in April ; previous to hoeing the second time, draw a drill between each row of plants, and plant Beet or Carrot seed ; this may be covered up in hoe- ing the Lettuce, and by the time the plants are up strong, the Lettuce wall be fit to cut. If these roots are well attended to, they may be cleared off soon enough to produce fall Cab- bage, Leeks, Celery, Turnips, Black Radishes, &c. ; No. 5. Rows, or drills, sixteen inches apart. March 25. — Plant hardy Lettuce plants. March 25. — Plant hardy Lettuce plants. April 20. — Plant Early York Cabbage plants, either between the rows or between the Lettuce. As soon as the Lettuce is off, hoe the Cabbage, and it will soon cover the ground. This ground wall be suitable for a crop of any of the va- rieties above mentioned, except Cabbage, the roots of which are apt to get defective, if the same ground be planted with Cabbage twice in succession. The above, or preceding plans, present a fair specimen of what may be done on a small piece of good gi'ound. If the ml HOT-BEDS. young gardener takes the trouble to keep an account of his transactions, he will soon make discoveries of still greater importance. If not sufficiently acquainted with the different varieties of Cabbage plants, for instance, so as to distinguish the one from the other, by making a memorandum at the time of sowing the seed, will soon get acquainted with the different varieties of plants ; he will also discover the differ- ence in the growing of his seed, and know who to blame if any particular kind should not come up. The following represents a Hot-bed with four sashes, sovvm March 1 : Early Dwarf, Early Battersea, Early Lettuce, Egg-plant Early York, Drumhead, or Tomato Seed, Peppers, Seed, &c. partitioned off or other spring other summer &c. in shallow as directed in note to article Cabbage Seed. Cabbage Seed. drills. Egg-plant. It may be necessary to remind my readers of the neces- sity of being always prepared to sow Cabbage, Lettuce, To- mato, and Egg-plant seed in hot-beds the last week in Feb- ruaiy, or early in March ; for this purpose, let some fresh stable dung and rich compost be engaged beforehand. Some gardeners make their beds on the level ground, but it is always safest to make them in pits from eighteen inches to two feet deep;* in order to do this, the pits should be dug * When durable heat is required for forcing vegetables, the beds should be made on level ground, in order that linintrs may be applied to the out- side of the frame, which, by frequent renewal, will enliven the heat of the bed, and thus bring tender vegetables to maturity, which would otherwise Buffer from a decline of the heat. For particular directions, see Observa- tions on Forcing Vegetables ; aKo, article on Forcing Asparagus. HOT-BEDS. 113 in autumn, or a heap of dung may be deposited on the ground intended for the beds before the frost sets in, and good earth may be obtained from the pits without any diffi- cuky. The frames should be made of good sound planks ; the back plank may be two feet wide, and the end ones may be so sloped as to make a fifteen-inch plank do for the front. A frame calculated for four sashes, of three feet in width by six in length, as above described, should be nearly thirteen feet long, and about six broad at the top. The frame being set over the pit, and properly fastened, the fresh dung should be spread regularly in the pit to the depth of twenty to twenty-four inches ; if the dung be in a good heating condition, cover it six or eight inches deep with mould, then lay on the sashes, and protect the beds from the inclemency of the weather. In two or three days the rank steam will pass oif ; it will then be necessary to stir the mould before the seed be sown, to prevent the growth of young weeds that may be germinating ; then sow the seed either in shallow drills or broad-cast, as equally as pos- sible, reserving a small quantity of the warm mould to be sown lightly over the seed. The beds should afterward be attended to, as directed for Broccoli and Cauliflower. This description of a hot-bed is intended expressly for the raising of Spring Cabbage, Lettuce, Tomatoes, and such other plants as may be required for early planting. Beds made earlier in the season, or for foicing, will require a greater quantity of maflure. [See Calendar for January^ Februa^-y, and March.j 10' rir - 114 OBSERVATIONS FORCING VEGETABLES Before I commenced preparing this work for the press, I intended to have written largely on the subject of forcing fruits as well as vegetables ; but when I considered my motto, and that I was writing for young gardeners, I con- cluded to occupy my pages in such a manner as to effect the greatest possible good at the smallest expense. Of the seve- ral branches of Horticulture, some are of gieater importance than others ; and as the products of the kitchen gai'den form important articles of food for the bulk of mankind, it should be our first care to treat largely on the subject of this most useful part of gardening. Next to this is the cultivation of fruits, and the production of ornamental plants and flowei's, each of which will be noticed in their respective departments. As I stand pledged to offer some remarks on forcing, or rather forwarding vegetables, by artificial means, 1 shall en- deavour to confine my observations to such points as are of primary importance ; and in order to convince my readers of the importance of this subject, I shall first endeavour to show the utility of an artificial climate suited to the vaiious species of useful plants. In England, a regular succession of vegetables can be obtained from the natural ground every month in the year, and the fruits of that country, from the summer heat being modeiate, are of longer continuance than with us, and yet the English make gardening a science, and employ the elements, as well as the ingenuity of man, in the production of fruits and vegetables out of the ordinary season, OJi FORCING VEGETABLES. 115 I shallnot attempt to treat of the cultivation of Pine- apples, Grapes, Cherries, or other fruits grown in forcing- houses ; nor would it be advisable with us to undertake to raise Cucumbers, Melons, &c,, in frames throughout the se- vere winters of our Northern States ; but it must be acknow- ledged, that the extreme heat of our summers is as detri- mental to the cultivation of some of the most valuable kinds of fruits and vegetables, as the coldness of our winters, and for these reasons, artificial aid is more necessary here in the winter and spring of the year than in England. The inhabi- tants of that country obtain a supply of the different varieties of Artichokes, Broad Beans, Borecole, BroccoH, Cauliflower, Kale, Lettuce, Radishes, Rhubarb, Spinach, Turnips, and salads in general, a great part of the year from their kitchen gardens, whereas, if we were to attempt to supply our mar- kets with culinary vegetables at all times, in any thing like the abundance that they have them there, we must, out of the ordinary season for gardening operations, turn our attention to the protecting and forwarding, as well as the forcing system. Before I pi-oceed to show the method of forcing vegeta- bles, it may be necessary for me to remind my re'aders, that in providing an artificial climate, they should consider the nature of the plants they intend to cultivate, and endeavour to supply them with that which is best calculated to nourish and support them. I have, in another part of this work, endeavoured to show, that heat, light, air, and moisture, are each essential to vegetation, and that these should be sup- plied in a judicious manner, according to circumstances. In the midst of our Northern winter, which is the usual time for foi'cing in England, we are subject to north-west winds, which produce extreme freezing. Now, as we have not yet discovered how to make an artificial air, it will not be safe for the gardener to raise a bottom heat under any kind of vegetable, until such times as he can impart a tole- rable share of salubrious air, as the heat without air will soon destroy the fruits of his labour. 116 ON FonCING VEGETABLES. Perhaps the safest time to commence forcing in frames, is soon after the middle of February, and the early part of March. I before hinted, that the depth of heating materials must be regulated liy the season of the year at which the work is commenced, and also to the purposes for which the hot -beds are intended. Beds used for the purpose of raising half-hardy plants, or for procuring seedling plants late in the spring, may be made in the manner recommended for the common hot-bed ; but if substantial heat is required to be kept up, the beds must be so contrived as to admit of linings as the heat decreases ; and the dung should undergo a regu- lar process of preparation, according to the use it is intended for. Compost heaps should also be provided, in order to furnish suitable mould to the different species of plants ; for this purpose, all the old hot-bed dung and mould, leaves, tan, turf, sand, and other light manures and decayed animal dung, should be collected together. In some cases, when a slight hot-bed is recommended for forwarding hardy plants, if it should happen that a seedling Cucumber bed be at liberty, it may answer every purpose for Radishes, Lettuce, or other hardy plants ; or such a bed may be spav^Tied for INIuahroons, if required. If the forcing be commenced before the coldest of the winter is past, great precaution must be used, lest the plants be injured by cold cutting winds, or destroyed by heat for want of air. To prevent the former accident, warm dung should be placed around the frames, and the sashes covered with mats and boards every night. If full air cannot be ad- mitted in the day time, the sashes must be slidden down to let off the steam ; at the same time mats may be laid over the aperture, to prevent cold air entering to the plants. If the bottom heat in a bed be too violent, which is some- times the case, means must be used to decrease it. This is generally effected by making holes in the bed with a stake sharpened at the end, or with a crow-bar ; which holes should be filled up when the heat is sufficiently reduced. In lining FORCING ASPARAGUS. 117 hot-beds, if the heat is reduced in the body of the beds, holes may be carefully made to admit heat from the fresh linings, so as to enliven the heat of the bed. A Fahrenheit thermometer should always be at hand at the time of forcing, to be used, when necessary, to regulate the heat in the beds ; and the water that is used in cultiva- ting plants in frames, should be warmed to the temperature of the air, or according to the heat required for the various kinds of plants, which will be shown in the annexed articles. FORCING ASPARAGUS IN HOT-BEDS. As Asparagus is apt to grow weak and slender by extreme bottom heat, it is forced with greater success, and with less trouble, in flued pits in a hot-house, than in dung hot-beds, because the heat from tan is more regular ; but a very suita- ble bed may be formed in a deep hot-bed frame, made in the usual way. If dung alone, or a mixture of dung and leaves, be used, it should be in a state past heating violently before it is made into a bed ; but if the gardener has no choice of materials, he may make his hot-bed in the usual way, and if the depth of healing materials be two feet, he may lay on a foot of old hot-bed dung, tan, or any light compost, that will admit of the heat passing through it. It may be necessary to state farther, that though too much bottom heat should be avoided, heat is necessary to the pro- duction of the vegetable in a moderate time, which is gene- rally effected in a month or six weeks after the commence- ment of the operations. For the purpose of keeping up a regular heat, a lining of hot dung should be applied around the frame, and changed as occasion requires. Provide plants from two to four, or even six years old, trim their roots, and place them in rows on the beds ; when one row is laid, strew a little mould among the roots, then proceed in the same way with one row after another, keep- 118 FORCING ASPARAGUS. ing them on a level, as the surface of the bed at first lay, till you have finished planting them ; then lay among the buds and roots some fine vegetable or other rich mould, work it in among them with your fingers, and cover the beds over about an inch thick ; and upon that, lay three inches in depth of vegetable mould not very rotten, old tan, or any other light compost that will admit the water to run quickly through. If there be a strong heat in the bed, slide down the sashes till it begins to decline. The temperature at night should never be under 50^, and it may rise to 65° without injury ; when the buds begin to appear, as much air must be daily admitted as the weather will permit. In two or three days after the beds are planted, the heat will begin to rise ; the beds should then have a moderate supply of water, ajiplied from a watering-pot with the the rose on ; repeat such watering every three or four days. When the buds are up three inches above the surface, they are fit to gather for use, as they will then be six or seven inches in length. In gathei'ing them, draw aside a little of the mould, slip down the finger and thumb, and twist them off from the crown : this is a better method than to cut them ; at least, it is less dangerous to the rising buds, which come vip thick in succession. An ordinary-sized frame calculated for three sashes will hold from three to five hundred plants, according to their age and size, and will, if properly managed, yield a dish every day for about three weeks. On the above estimate, if a con- stant succession of Asparagus be required, it will be neces- sary to plant a bed every eighteen or twenty days. Rhubarb and Sea-Kale may be, and sometimes are, forced in the same manner as Asparagus ; but the most general mode is to excite them where they stand in the open garden, by the application of warm dung. FORWARDING BEANS. 119 FORWARDING BROAD BEANS, OR ENGLISH DWARFS. In the article Broad Beans, {Vicia faba,) I have aheady urged the necessity of early j^lanting, in order that a full crop may be insui'ed before the approach of warm weather ; but as the gi'ound is often frozen at the time they ought to be planted, some of the best kinds may be planted in boxes, and placed in a moderate hot-bed in February, or early in March. If the plants thus raised be not made too tender, they may be tiansplanted into the open ground the latter end of March ; this will enable them to produce their fruit early in June. Or if a heap of manure be spread thick on a piece of gi'ound late in autumn, it will keep the earth from freezing; and if this manure be removed in February, and a frame placed over the spot and protected from extieme cold, the seedlings may be raised therein, and transj^lanted into the garden, as directed in article, page 39. Those who have not the convenience of hot-beds or frames, may, in the month of February, plant some of the seed about two inches deep in. boxes kept in the cellar, or in earth on the floor, which will produce plants fit to transplant in the open garden toward the latter end of March or early in April. FORCING KIDNEY BEANS. The most dwarfish kinds of Kidney Beans may be raised in hot-beds ; but they require a substantial heat to mature them. The temperature within the frames should be kept up to 60% and may rise to 70" or 75°, provided the steam be let off. In order to insure suflficient heat to bring them into a bearing state, the plants may be first rai&ed in small pots plunged into a hot-bed, or a small bed may be prepared, 120 FORWARDING BROCCOLI AND CAULIFLOWEK. earthed over with light rich com2)ost, six inches deep, and the Beans planted therein, and covered one incli. The second hijt-bed should be earthed over to the depth of eight or nine inches, and the Beans transplanted as soon as they are two or three inches high, in cross rows twelve or fifteen inches apart, by three or iour inches in the rows, or in clumps a foot apart. When the season is so far advanced that one bed, with the help of linings, will bring the plants well into fruit, the seed may be planted at once to remain for podding ; or if the gardener should choose to mature his crop in the open ground, he may raise his plants in boxes or pots in the month of April, and plant them out in a warm border early in May. Beans raised in hot-beds will require considerable atten- tion. Cover the glasses every night with mats and boards ; admit fresh air every mild day, give occasional gentle water- ings, and earth them up carefully as they progress in growth, to strengthen them. FORWARDING BROCCOLI AND CAULIFLOWER. In treating of the method of cultivating this family of plants, in the articles under each head, I recommended an artificial climate to be provided for them, so as to induce them to arrive at full perfection in the winter and early pait of the spring. Gardeners who have provided frames for the purpose of making hot-beds, in the spring, may make use of them through the winter, in protecting Broccoli and Cau- liflower ; and as the frames will not be wanted until the se- verity of the winter is past, such plants as are left at that: season may be protected by a covering of boards, straw, or litter, as occasion may require. If Cauliflower be required early in the summer, the plants raised in the preceding autumn should be transplanted from the beds into the open ground, in the month of March, and FORCING CUCUMBERS. 121 be protected by hand glasses. This would insure their heading before the approach of extreme warm weather, which is very injurious to Cauliflower. FORCING CUCUMBERS. To produce Cucumbers at an early season, should be an object of emulation with every gardener. The business of forcing them should commence about eight or ten weeks before the fruit is desired, and a succession of plants should be raised to provide for accidents. Some choose the Short Piickly, others the Long Green and White Spined ; and seed two or three years old is generally preferred, as it is not so apt to run to vines. The seed is generally sown in pots or boxes of light rich mould, and placed in a hot-bed ; and some sow the seed in the earth of a small bed prepared for the purpose. In either case, as soon as the plants have fully expanded their two seed leaves, they may be transplanted into pots, putting three plants in each pot ; when this is done, apply water warmed to the temperature of the bed, and shut down the glasses, keeping them a little shaded by throwing a mat over the glass, till the plants have taken root. When they ai'e about a month old, they will be fit to transplant into the fruit- ing bed. To prepare the dung properly, is of the greatest impor- tance in forcing the Cucumber, and if not done before it is made into a bed, it cannot be done afterward, as it requires turning and managing to cause it to ferment freely and sweetly. Fresh dung from the stable should be laid in a heap, turned three times, and well mixed wdth a fork ; if any ap- pears dry, it should be made wet, always keeping it between the two extremes of wet and dry, that the whole may have a regular fermentation. A dry situation should be chosen on which to form beds, 11 122 FORCING CUCUMKERS. 80 that no water can settle under the dung. The substance of dung from the bottom of the bed should be from three to four feet, according to the season of planting, and the mould should be laid on as soon as the bed is settled, and has a lively, regular-tempered heat. Lfiy the earth evenly over the dung, about six inches deep ; after it has lain a few days examine it, and if no traces of a burning efliect are disco- vered, by the mould turning of a whitish colour and caking, it will be fit to receive the 2>lants ; but if the earth appears burned, or has a rank smell, some fresh sweet mould should be provided for the hills, and placed in the frame to get warm ; at the same time, vacancies should be made to give vent to the steam, by running down stakes. After the situation of the bed has been ascextained, and the heat regulated, the hole should be closed, and the earth formed into hills ; raise one hill in the centre under each sash, so that the earth is brought to within nine inches of the glass ; in these hills, plant three seedlings, or turn out such as may be in pots, with the balls of earth about their roots, and thus insert one patch of three plants in the mid- dle of each hill. The plants should be immediately watered with water heated to the temperature of the bed, and kept shaded till they have taken root. The temperature should be kept uj:) to 60*^, and may rise to 80° without injuj-y, jirovided the rank steam be allowed to pass off; therefore, as the heat begins to decline, timely linings of well-prepared dung must be applied all round the frame. Begin by lining the back part first ; cut away the old dung perpendicularly by the frame, and form a bank two feet broad, to the height of a foot, against the back of the frames ; as it sinks, add more ; renew the linings round the remainder of the bed as it becomes necessary, and be care- ful to let off the steam, and give air to the plants at all op- poztunities. Give necessary waterings, mostly in the morning of a mild day, in early forcing ; and in the afternoon, in the advanced FORCING CUCUMBERS. 123 season of hot sunny weather. Some use water impregnated with sheep or jaigeon dung. As the roots begin to spread, and the vines to run, the hills should be enlarged by gather- ing up the earth around them, for which pui-pose a supply of good mould should be kejjt ready at hand, to be used as required. When the plants have made one or tw^o joints, stop them, by pinching oft* the tops, after which they generally put forth two shoots, each of which let run till tliey have made one or two clear joints, and then stop them also; and afterward con- tinue throughout the season to stop them at every joint ; this will strengthen the plants, and promote their perfecting the fruit early. The following artificial operation is recojn mended by Abercrombie, Phial, and other writers, as essential to the production of a full crop of Cucumbers under glass. In plants more freely exposed to the open air, the imjiregnation is effected by nature. Those which some call false blossoms are the male flowers, and are indispensable in this operation. " The Cucumber," Abercrombie observes, " bears male and female blossoms distinctly on the same plant. The lat- ter only produce the fruit, which appears first in miniature, close under the base, even before the flower expands. There is never any in the males ; but these are placed in the vici- nity of the females, and are absolutely necessary, by the dis- persion of their farina, to impregnate the female blossom ; the fruit of which vdll not otherwise swell to its full size, and the seed will be abortive. The early jjlants under glass, not having the full current of natural air, nor the assistance of bees and other winged insects to convey the farina, the artificial aid of the cultivator is necessary to eflfect the im- pregnation. At the time of fructification, watch the plants daily ; and as soon as the female flowers and some male blossoms are fully expanded, proceed to set the fruit the same day, or next morning at farthest. Take off" a male blossom, detaching it with part of the footstalk. Hold this 124 FORWARDING LETTUCE. between the finger and thumb ; pull away the flower leaves, or petals, close to the stamens and antherae, or central part, which apply close to the pistil in the bosom of the female flower, twirling it a little about, to discharge thereon some particles of the fertilizing powder. Proceed thus to set every fruit, as the flowers of both sorts open, while of a lively full expansion ; and generally perform it in the early part of the day, using a fresh male, if possible, for every impregna- tion, as the males are usually more abundant than the female blossoms. By this management, the young fruit will soon be observed to swell freely." Cucumbers attain the proper size for gathering in from fifteen to twenty days after the time of setting ; and often in succession for two or three months or more, in the same beds, by good culture. FORWARDING CUCUMBERS UNDER HAND GLASSES. If it be desired to have Cucumbers in the open garden at an early season, the plants may be raised in pots as before directed, and planted in a warm border either in the earth, or in hot-bed ridges. A hand-glass should be provided for each hill, which must be kept close down every night and in cool days, taking care to admit air when practicable. The plants may be hardened by degrees, by taking off" the glass in the heat of the day, and as the weather gets warm they may be left to nature. FORWARDING LETTUCE FOR USE IN WINTER. Head Lettuce may be cultivated for use in the winter season by means of gentle hot-beds, or in cold-beds made in the manner recommended for the raising of early Cabbage FORCING MUSHROOMS. 125 plants, &c. (See article Cabbage.) For such Head Lettuce as may be wanted for use before Christmas, the Hardy Green, the Loco Foco, and Coss, are the most suitable kinds to sow ; and plants may be raised in the open border by sow- ing seed two or three times between the middle of August and the first week in September. The plants from these sowings may be set out, about six inches apart, in cold-beds, when they are one or two inches high. In September and early in October, some of the Silesia, Sugar Loaf, Butter Lettuce, or any other esteemed sorts, may be sown in a cold-bed frame, which, with the aid of sashes, will produce plants in from a month to six weeks ; these being planted in gentle hot-beds in November and December, will produce Head Lettuce until a plentiful sup- ply can be obtained from the open borders. The same at- tention is necessary, as respects the jirotection of these beds- as for other half-hardy plants. FORCING MUSHROOMS AT ALL SEASONS. The ^(^aricus is said to be the most extensive genus in the vegetable kingdom. The species are determined upon various principles. As some of tlie kinds are poisonous, it is necessary to describe the eatable Mushroom. Loudon says, it is most readily distinguished when of a middle size, by its fine pink or flesh-coloured gills, and pleasant smell. In a more advanced age, the gills become of a chocolate colour, and it is then more apt to be confounded with other kinds of dubious quality ; but that species which most nearly resembles it, is slimy to the touch, destitute of fine odour, and has a disagreeable smell. Again : the noxious kinds grow in woods, while the true Mushroom springs up chiefly in open pastures, and should be gathered only in such places. Unwholesome /««§■! will sometimes spring up on artificial IV 126 FORCING MUSHROOMS. beds in gardens ; thus, when the spawn begins to run, a spurious breed is often found to precede a crop of genuine Mushi-ooms. The poisonous toad-stool, Agartcus cirocus, may generally be detected by the presence of a sickly, nau- seous smell, though some hurtful kinds are so free from any thing disagreeable in the smell, as to make any criterion, drawn from that alone, very unsafe. The wholesome kinds, however, invariably emit a gi-ateful, rich odour. The Jiga- ric7is campestris is most generally cultivated. Dr. Withering mentions other eatable varieties, which grow considerably larger, but are inferior in flavour ; he says " that a plant of the variety Georgia was gathered in an old hot-bed at Bir- mingham, which weighed fourteen pounds ; and Mr. Stack- house found one fifty-four inches in circumference, having a stem as thick as a man's wi'ist." Mushrooms may be obtained at any season of the yeai% by a proper regulation of the time and manner of forming the beds. A good crop is sometimes collected without ma- king a bed on })urpose, by introducing lumps of s^Dawn into the top mould of old hot-beds. The methods of procming and propagating spawn, and of forming Mushroom beds, are numei'ous. Indigenous Bpawn may be collected in pasture lands iu September and October, or it may be fjund in its strength and purity in the paths of mills worked by horses, or in any other horse-walks under shelter; it is frequently found in old hot-beds and dunghills in the summer season, and Mushrooms of good quality may often be seen beginning to form on the surface, like large peas ; when these are absorbed, it is time to take out the spawn, which is generally in hard, dry lumps of dung, the spawn having the appearance of whitish coarse pieces of thread. The true sort has exactly the smell of a Mush- room. If spawn thus collected be required for immediate use, it may be planted in the beds at once, or it will kee]> three or four years, if laid to dry with the earth adhering to it, and afterward placed in a warm, dry shed, where there FORCING MUSHROOMS. 127 is a current of air; but if it be not completely dried, the spawn will exhaust itself or perish, as it will not bear the extremes of heat, cold, or moistuj-e. Such of my readers as may have hitherto been unac- quainted with the cultivation of Mushrooms, must perceive, from the preceding remarks, that a Mushroom bed is simply a heap of animal dung and earth, so tempered as to be ca- pable of producing and preserving spawn ; but in order to have fruitful spawn at all times, it should be so formed as to be always at command. To this end, a quantity of fresh horse droppings mixed with short litter, should be collected ; add to this one third of cow dung, and a small portion of good eaith, to cement it together ; mash the whole into a thin compost, like grafting clay ; then foi m it in the shape of bi-icks ; which being done, set them on edge, and frequent- ly turn them until half dry ; then with a dibble make one or two holes in each brick, and insert in each hole a piece of spawn the size of an egg : the bricks should then be laid where they can dry gradually. When dry, lay dry horse dung on a level floor, six or eight inches thick ; on this, pile the bricks, the spawn side uppermost. When the pile is snugly formed, cover it with a small portion of fresh warm horse dung, sufficient in quantity to produce a gentle glow through the whole. When the spawn has spread itself through every part of the bricks, the process is ended, and they may be laid up in any dry place for use. Mushi-oom spawn, made according to this receipt, will preserve its ve- getating powers for many years, if well dried before it is laid up ; if moist, it will grow, and soon exhaust itself. Mushroom beds are often formed in ridges in the open air, covered with litter and mats, so as to prevent heavy rains exciting a fermentation ; and sometimes in ridges of the same sort under cover, as in the open sheds of hot-houses. They are also made in close sheds behind hot-houses, or in houses built on purpose, called Mushroom-houses. A mo- derately warm, light cellar is peculiarly suited for the pur- 128 FORCING iMUSHROOMS. pose in the winter season, as no fire is liecessary, and but little water, the application of which fi-equently pi-oves inju- rious, when not judiciously managed. Mushrooms may also be raised in pots, boxes, hampers, &:c., placed in warm situa- tions ; in old-beds, in pits with glazed frames, and in dark frames or pits. The general way of making Mushroom beds, is to prepare a body of stable dung, moderately fermented, about a yard in thickness, more or less, according to the size tfnd situa- tion iu which the bed is to be formed ; when the strong heat has subsided, an inch of good mould may be laid over it, and the spawn planted therein in rows five or six inches apart ; after this is done, another layer of mould, an inch thick, may be added, and then a coat of straw. Beds well constructed will produce Mushrooms in five or six weeks, and will continue to produce for several months, if care be taken in gathering, not to destroy the young ones. As Mushrooms are gathered, from time to time, the straw should be spread carefully over the bed. Beds made in a convenient place, where there is space all around, may be formed so as to make four sloping surfaces, similar to the roof of a house ; this, by being spawned on the four sides, will yield abundantly. The celebrated Mr. Nichol makes his beds without spawn. The following are his directions, taken from Loudon's Encyclopoedia of Gar- dening : " After having laid a floor of ashes, stones, chips, gravel, or brick-bats, so as to keep the bed quite dry and free from under damp, lay a course of horse-droppings six inches thick. These should be new from the stables, and must not be broken, and the drier the better. They may be collected every day until the whole floor or sole be covered to the above thickness ; but they must not be allowed to ferment or heat. In the whole process of making up, the bed should be as much exposed to the air as possible ; and it should be carefully defended fiom wet, if out of doors. When this FORCING MUSHROOMS. 129 course is quite diy, and judged to be past a state of fermen- tation, cover it to the thickness of two inches with light, and a coat of warm dung may be laid over the whole. If this does not enliven the bed after having lain a month, take off' the earth ; and if, on examination, there is no appearance of spawn, the whole may be desti'oyed ; but if, on the contrary, the bed should contain spawn, it may be renovated by coveiing it again, especially if any small tuber- cles be discernible ; if the heat should have declined, the spawn may be taken out and used in a fresh bed. If beds be formed in hot-bed frames under glass, some mats or straw must be laid over the glass to break off the intense heat of the sun. Although only one species of edible fungi has yet been introduced into the garden, there are se.vcrfd eai;ablQ kinds. FORWARDING MELONS UNDER HAND-GLASSES. 131 In Poland and Russia there are above thirty kinds in com- mon use among the peasantry. They are gathered at diffe- rent stages of their growth, and used in various ways : raw, boiled, stewed, roasted ; and being hung up, and dried in their stoves and chimneys, form a part of their winter stock of provisions. Great caution is necessary in collecting Mushrooms for food, and none but the botanist should gather any but the kinds we have described.* Physicians say, " That all the edible species should be thoroughly masticated before they are taken into the stomach, as this greatly lessens the effect of poisons. When accidents of the sort happen, vomiting should be immediately excited, and then the vege- table acids should be given, either vinegar, lemon juice, or that of apples ; after which, give ether and anti-spasmodic remedies, to stop the excessive vomiting. Infusions of gall- nut, oak bark, and Peruvian bark, are recommended as capa- ble of neutralizing the poisonous principle of Mushrooms." It is, however, the safest way not to eat any but the well- knowai kinds. FORWARDING MELONS UNDER HAND-GLASSES. Although our citizens have an opportunity of procuring INIelons without artificial aid, yet, as their continuance is short, it may not be amiss to remind the gardener that the direc- tions already given for maturing Cucumbers under glass will apply to Melons, with very few exceptions ; care, however, must be taken that they be kept away from each other at the time of fruiting, as instances often occur of whole crops being entirely I'uined, by plants of the same genus being * In order to ascertain whether what- appear to be Mushrooms are of the true edible kinds, sprinkle a little salt over the inner or spongy part ; if, in a short time after, they turn yellow, they are unwholesome ; but if black, they may be considered as genuine Mushrooms, 13S .' .■ FORCING PEAS IN HOT-BEDS. raised too near each other. Those who wish to forward Melons, may prepar-e a hot-bed in March or April, to raise plants in ; the beds may be formed and the plants managed in precisely the same manner as is directed for Cucumbers. If the ridging system be adopted, and a hand-glass applied to each hill, Melons may be obtained one month earlier than the usual time. Gardeners raising Melons for the supply of city markets, may gratify the public taste early in the season, by pursuing the forwarding, if not the forcing system. Kidges may be prepared in the following manner : In April or May, a trench may be dug in a warm border, about two feet deep and three ^vide, and of sufficient length for as many hand-glasses as are intended to be employed, allowing three feet for every hill. Some good heating manure should be laid in the pits, managed the same as a common hot-bed ; to this must be added good rich mould to the depth of eight or ten inches for the plants to grow in ; as soon as the mould is warm, the seedlings may be planted, three plants in each hill, after which the hand-glasses should be set on, and shaded. After the plants have taken root and began to grow, the glasses should be raised in fine days, and propped up so as to admit fresh air ; and as the warm weather progresses, they may be taken off in the middle of fine days so as to harden the plants gradually to the weather ; and by the latter end of May they may be left to natuie. FORCING PEAS IN HOT-BEDS. The best kinds of Peas to force, are those that are the most dwarfish, and the seed is better for being two or three years old, as they will bear earlier, and make less straw. Peas run less to vine by being transplanted, than when they are sown where they are to remain ; the plants may be raised in a gentle hot-bed, either in the earth of the bed, or in pots FORCING POTATOES. 133 or boxes. They do not require excessive heat ; the tempe- rature must be progressive ; beginning at about 50° for the nursery-bed, and from that to 60" or 65° for fruiting. When the leaves of the plants are fairly expanded, they may be transplanted into rows from twelve to eighteen inches apart ; observe, the earth in the fruiting bed should be from twelve to eighteen inches in depth. As the Peas progress in growth, the earth should be stir- red ; and when six inches high, small sticks may be applied, so that the tendrills of the Peas may easily take hold ; and they should be moulded at the bottom to enable them to sup- port themselves. When they are in blossom, nip the top off; this greatly promotes the fonning and filling of the pods ; they will re- quire to be regularly watered, and as the spring advances they may be exposed to the weather, taking care to shelter them in the event of a sudden change. FORCING POTATOES IN HOT-BEDS. Potatoes may be forced in a great variety of ways. Those who attempt to mature Potatoes in frames, will of course provide such of the earliest kinds as are not inclined to pro- duce large tops ; the Broughton Dwarf, Early Mule, Nonpa- reil, the Oak, and the Ash-leaved, axe of this description. Potatoes may be forwarded in giowth previous to being planted in the beds, by placing them in a warm, damp cellar. S(»me forward them in pots and boxes, and afterward mature them in a hot-bed ; others plant them in the bed at once, in which case the bed should be moulded from fifteen to twenty inches deep, and the heating materials should be sufficient to keep up a moderate heat for two or three months. Perhaps the most convenient way to force Potatoes in this climate, is to provide pots for the purpose ; jilant one set in each pot in January, and set them in a warm cellar, till a bed 134 FomVAUDING RADISHES, ETC. can be prepared in February, in which put the pots. While the tuberous roots are forming, and before they fill the pots, prepare the beds for maturing them, and then bury them in the mould with the balls of earth attached to them. The beds should be kept free from frost, and air should be given at every opportunity. The common round Potatoes may be forwarded, by laying them thick together in a slight hot-bed in March, and when they are planted in the borders, a quantity of comb-maker's shavings may be deposited in each hill ; this will greatly promote their growth. FORWARDING RADISHES, &c. Radishes may be obtained early in the spring by means of a moderate hot-bed. The earth in the frame should be a foot in depth, and air should be admitted every day after they are up, or they will incline more to tops than roots. If they come up too thick, they should be thinned to one or two inches apart. Give gentle waterings as occasion re- quires, and keep them well covered in cold nights. For raising early Radishes without frames, hot-beds may be made in ridges, and arched over with hoop bends, or pliant rods, wliich should be covered with mats at night, and during the day in very cold weatlier. In moderate days, turn up the mats at the warmest side ; and on fine mild days, take them \vhully ofi", and harden the plants gradually to the weather. Turnips, Carrots, Onions, or any kind of salads or pot herbs, may be raised in the same way, by sowing the seed in drills and keeping the gi'ound clear of weeds. PORAVARDING RHUBARB. 135 FORWARDING RHUBARB. Those who may desire to have this excellent substitute for fruit at an early season, may procure it without much trouble. It is customary with some persons in the southern paits of England, to keep this plant growing in their kitchens, so that they may have it for use at any time. They have strong neat boxes, made for the ])urpose, about three feet deep and two wide, and in lensrth according' to the demand, from four to eight feet ; these being kept clean, have the appeaiance of floui'-bins, and they ai'e sometimes so contrived as to have shelves over them in imitation of a kitchen dresser. The plants being tali;en up out of the garden towards winter, are placed as close at the bottom of the box as they can be, with their crowns level : and some sand being thrown over, suf- ficient to fill up the interstices, and to cover the crowns about half an inch, finishes the operation. No farther trouble is necessary, except to give a little water, just to keep the roots moist, as they need no light at all ; and if the roots be planted in the garden when spring opens, they will, after having taken root, vegetate as strongly as before they were removed. Roots of Rhubarb taken up in the autumn, packed in sand, and deposited in a warm cellar, will j^roduce stalks earlier than if kept in the garden ; and if placed in hot-beds they will yield abundantly, and that at a very early season. The consumption of this plant in the British metropolis may be judged of by the following extract from the London G ardener's Magazine : " Rhubarb, which has for some years been cultivated, is still a subject of increasing interest, and more extensively in demand than ever. On the fifth of May, no less than eight wagon loads, each weighing at least a ton, with an equal quantity in smaller proportions, were sold in Covent Garden market alone. One cultivator, Mr. jNIyatt, of New Cross, Deptford, had three wagon loads; he has, I believe, nearly twenty acres of it under culture," This plant 136 FORWARDING TOMATOES. contains an acid as fine as the Gooseberry, for pies and tarts ; a square rod of ground will supply a family ; and it may be used till midsummer or later. [For fuller erplanatioas, see article Rhubarb.] FORWARDING SALAD HERBS, SMALL PLANTS, &c. For the purpose of raising Mustard, Cress, and other salad herbs, also Egg-plants, Tomato plants, &c., in small quanti- ties, a hot-bed may be made, early in the spring, of good heating materials, on the top of which may be laid leaf mould, old tan, or light compost, to the depth of about nine inches. The vanous kinds of seed may be sown in boxes or flower- pots, and plunged in the top mould up to their rims, and by being well attended to, a supply of small salads, as well as small seedling plants, may be raised without much labour or difficulty. This method is also well calculated for raising annual flower plants at an early season. FORWARDING TOMATOES. As this vegetable has become highly appreciated of late years for its excellent qualities, it may be necessary here to observe, that plants raised from seed sown in hot-beds the lat- ter end of February, or early in March, as directed in former pages, will grow to the length of four inches and upward by the first of April, which is one month earlier than they can with safety be trusted in the open garden. If a few of these be pulled from the hot-bed, and transplanted into flower-pots, they may be kept growing therein until settled warm weather, and then turned out and deposited in the ground with the balls of earth entire ; or a fruiting-bed may be prepared by the first of April, in the manner recommended for Bush FORCING VEGKTABLES. 137 Beans, Cucumbers, &c., and the plants inserted in the earth at once ; these wall produce ripe fniit a month or six weeks earlier than those cultivated in the ordinary way. FORCING VARIOUS KINDS OF VEGETABLES. The following simple method of forcing vegetables on a small scale is recommended by a coiTespondent of a London magazine : " Mushrooms in winter I obtain by a very simple, though not a new process. Provide boxes three feet long, and one foot eight inches deep ; a quantity of horse droppings, per- fectly dry ; some spawn and some light dry soil. Fill the boxes by layers of droppings, sjiawn, and soil, which must be trodden perfectly tight ; repeat these triple layers till the boxes are full, and all trodden firmly together. " Four such boxes at work are sufficient for a moderate demand ; and of a dozen, four brought in at a time, and placed upon a flue of a green-house stove, will produce a fine supply. The surface of these portable beds may be covered with a little hay, and occasionally, though sparingly, watered. It is not absolutely necessary that they be set on the flue of a green-house ; a warm stable, cellar, or any other similar place, will suit equally well. This plan is also con- venient for affording a plentiful stock of superior spawn. *' The same sized boxes will also do for Asparagus ; but for this puipose a sufficient stock of three-year-old plants must be at hand ; also eighteen boxes, four of which are the necessary set to be forced at one time for a middling family. Half fill the boxes with decayed tanner's bark, leaf mould, or any similar mould ; on this, pack the roots as thickly as possible, and fill up the boxes with the bark, &c. Any place in a forcing-house will suit them : on the flue, under the stage, or, in short, any place where they can enjoy the ne- 138 FORCING VEGETABLES. cessary degree of heat. Besides Asparagus and Mush- rooms, Sea-Kale, Buda-Kale, Angelica, small salad, as also various pot herbs, may be raised in the same manner." Those who have not the conveniences recommended in a green-house, &:c., may place the boxes in a hot-bed. The glasses being laid on, and the beds covered at night, will soon promote the growth of the plants, and produce vegetable luxuries at a season when garden products in general are comparatively scarce. It is unnecessary to show of how much value such pro- cesses may be in minor establishments, or in a young country. I wish it to be understood, that in order to the successful cultivation of some of the rare vegetables I have treated of, great pains must be taken in every stage of their growth. If the advice I have given be attended to, I flatter myself we shall soon obtain a supply of many of these luxuries of the garden. My directions are founded on the success attending the practice of some of the best gardeners in this country. I have also had sufficient experience to waiTant me in this attempt to contribute my mite toward the attain- ment of this kind of useful knowledge. METHOD OF CULTIVATING Tlffi HOP, 139 METHOD OF CULTIVATING THE HOP. HouBLON. Httmulns hipuhis. Although the Hop is not a culinary vegetable, yet, as it is more or less used in every part of our country, it may not be amiss to treat of its culture. It is presumed, that, in pro- portion as habits of temperance are inculcated, our citizens will have recourse to beer as a wholesome beverage ; and as a great deal depends on the manner in which Hops are cured, I propose giving directions for their management throughout, so as to enable those who choose, to prepare their own. My information is collected chiefly from Loudon's Encyclopaedia of Plants. '* The Hop has been cultivated in Europe an unknown length of time for its flowers, which are used for preserving beer. Its culture was introduced from Flanders in the reign of Henry the Eighth ; though indigenovis both in Scotland and Ireland, it is little cultivated in those countries, owing to the humidity of their autumnal season. Like other plants of this sort, the Hop bears its flowers on different individuals ; the female plants, therefore, are alone cultivated. There are several varieties grown in Kent and SuiTey, under the name of Flemish, Canterbuiy, Goldings, &c. j the first is the most hardy, differing little from the Wild or Hedge Hop ; the Golding is an improved and highly productive variety, but more subject to blight than the other.* " The Hop prefers a deep loamy soil on a dry bottom ; a sheltered situation, but at the same time not so confined as to prevent a free circulation of air. The soil requires to be well pulverized and manured ^re^•ious to planting. In Hop districts, the ground is generally trenched either with a * Besides these are the Farnham, or Golden Grape, which is cultivated for an early crop ; and for late picking, the Mayfield Grape, or Ruffler, is; esteemed, which is a dwarfish variety. Great caution is necessary, lest the varieties get mixed, as they will not ripen or dry equally, and consequently cajinot be of one uniform colour and quality, 14(J METHOD OF CULTIVATING THE HOP. plough or spade. The mode of phinting is generally in rows six feet apart, and the same distance in the row. By some, five, six, or seven plants, are placed in a circular form, which circles are distant five or six feet from each other. The plants or cuttings are procured from the most healthy of the old stools ; each should have two joints or buds : from the one which is placed in the ground springs the root, and from the other the stalk. Some plant the cuttings at once where they are to remain, and by others they are nursed a year in a garden. An interval crop of Beans or Cabbage is gene- rally taken the first year. Sometimes no poles are placed at the plants till the second year, and then only short ones of six or seven feet. The third year the Hop generally comes into full bearing, and then from four to six poles, from fourteen to sixteen feet in length, are placed to each circle, or one pole to each plant, if cultivated in straight rows. The most durable timber for poles is that ot the Span- ish Chesnut. " The after culture of the Hop consists in stiiring the soil, and keeping it free from weeds ; in guiding the shoots to the poles, and sometimes tying them for that puqiose with bass or withered ruslies ; in eradicating superfluous shoots which may rise from the root, and in raising a small heap of earth over the root to nourish the plant. " Hops are known to be ready for gathering when the chaffy capsules acquire a brown colour, and a firm consist- ence. Each chaffy capsule, or leaf calyx, contains one seed. Befi>re these are picked, the stalks are detached, and the poles pulled up, and placed horizontally on frames of wood, two or three poles at a time. The Hops are then picked off by women and children. After being carefully separated from the leaves and stalks, they are dropped into a large cloth hung all round within the frame on tenter hooks. When the cloth is full, the Hops are emptied into a large sack, which is carried home, and the Hops laid on a kiln to be dried. This is always to be done as soon as possible after METHOD OF CULTIVATING THE HOP. HI they are picked, or they are apt to sustain considerable damage, both in colour and flavour, if allowed to remain long in the green state in which they are picked. In very warm weather, and when they are picked in a moist state, they will often heat in five or six hours ; for this reason, the kilns are kept constantly at work, both night and day, from the commencement to the conclusion of the Hop-picking season. " The operation of drying Hops is not materially different from that of drying malt, and the kilns are of the same con- struction. The Hops are spread on a hair cloth, from eight to twelve inches deep, according as the season is dry or wet, or the Hops ripe or immature. When the ends of the Hop stalks become quite shrivelled and dry, they are taken off the kiln, and laid on a boarded floor till they become quite cool, when they are put into bags. " The bagging of Hops is thus performed : in the floor of the room where Hops are laid to cool, there is a round hole or trap, equal in size to the mouth of a Hop-bag. After tying a handful of Hops in each of the lower comers of a large bag, which serve after for handles, the mouth of the bag is fixed securely to a strong hoop, which is made to rest on the edge of the hole or trap ; and the bag itself being then dropped through the hole, the packers go into it, when a person who attends for the purpose, puts in the Hops in small quantities, in order to give the packer an opportunity of packing and trampling them as hard as possible. When the bag is filled, and the Hops trampled in so hard that it will hold no more, it is drawn up, unloosed from the hoop, and the end sewed up, two other handles having been pre- viously formed in the comers in the manner mentioned above. The brightest and finest coloured Hops are put into pockets or fine bagging, and the brown into coarse or heavy bagging. The former are chiefly used for brewing fine ale, and the latter by the porter brewers. But when Hops are intended to be kept two or three years, they are put into bags of strong cloth, and firmly pressed so as to exclude the air. 142 METHOD OP CULTtVATlNG THE HOP. " The Stripping and stacking of the poles succeed to the operation of picking. The shoot or bind being stiipped off, such poles as are not decayed, are set up together in a coni- cal pile of three or four hundred, the centre of which is formed by three stout poles bound together a few feet from their tops, and their lower ends spread out. " The j>roduce of no crop is so liable to variation as that of the Hop ; in good seasons an acre will produce 20 cwt., but from 10 to 12 cwt. is considered a tolerable average crop. The quality of Hops is estimated by the abundance or scarcity of an unctuous clammy powder which adheies to them, and by their bright yellow colour. The expenses of forming a Hop plantation arc considerable ; but once in bearing, it will continue so for ten or fifteen yeai's before it requires to be renewed. The Hop is peculiarly liable to diseases ; when young it is devoured by fleas of different kinds ; at a more advanced stage, it is attacked by the green ily, red spider, and ottermoth, the larvre of which prey even upon their roots. The honey-dew often materially injures the Hop crop ; and the mould, the fire-blast, and other blights, injure it at differ- ent times toward the latter period of the growth of the plant." It appears from an article in the ' Genesee Farmer,' that the culture of Hops is becoming an important branch of hus- bandry in the State of New-Yoik. A correspondent observes, that " as fine samples have been grown in Orange and Ma- dison counties as in any part of the world. The Hop is con- sidered somewhat precarious ; but when the season is good, the profit is very great. The average product may be stated at 700 lbs., though it has reached 1,600 lbs. to the acre ; and in the latter case the expenses amounted to sixty dollars. The ordinary, or average price, may be stated at eighteen cents per pound. The profits on an ordinary crop, accord- ing to these assumed data, would be about seventy dollars to the acre. It often falls materially short of this, however, from the want of knowledge and care in gathering and dry- ing the crop. METHOD OF CULTIVATING THE HOP. 143 " The quantity of Hops taken to Albany and the neigh- bouring towns on the Hudson, this year (1S34), has been estimated at 2,300 bales, or 50,000 lbs., which, had. not many of them been prematurely gathered, or badly cured, would have yielded to the growers ninety or a hundred thousand dollars. But of the 2,300 bales there was not more than 200 bales, we are informed, that ought to have received the denomination of first sorts. Many of them were picked too early, before the matter that imparts to them their value was sufficiently developed ; and others were scorched or smoked in curing. This carelessness has seriously affected the char- acter of our Hops abroad, and they are no longer purchased by the Philadelphia brewers. They would soon form an im- portant article of export, if their character was raised by care in their culture and drying, and a rigid inspection." The young shoots of both wild and cultivated Hojas are considered by some as very wholesome, and are frequently gathered in the spring, boiled, and eaten as Asparagus. The stalks and leaves will dye wool yellow. From the stalk a strong cloth is made in Sweden, the mode of preparing which is described by Linnaeus in his Flora Suecica. A decoction of the roots is said to be as good a sudorific as Sarsaparilla ; and the smell of the flowers is soporific. A pillow filled with Hop flowers will induce sleep, unattended with the bad effects of soporifics, which require to be taken internally. 144 OBSERVATIONS OS THE WEATHER, OBSERVATIONS ON THE WEATHER, AS INFLU- ENCED BY CHANGES OF THE MOON. Lest the reader should judge, from my introducing this subject, that I am an advocate for moon-planting, in any other sense than in ascribing the various changes of the vi^eather to the influence of that great luminary, I would here offer a few observations in reference to the practice and prejudices of many peisons in choosing the first quarter of the moon for planting such vegetables as yield their produce above the surface, as Cabbage, &c., and the last quarter or wane of the moon for such as grow and yield their produce chiefly in the earth, and below the surface, as Potatoes, &c. I would first observe, that if the moon has any direct in- fluence over vegetable productions, it must operate in many cases quite the reverse to what these theorists generally ex- pect ; for instance, if the earth and weather should happen to be dry in the first week after planting certain species of fieed, such would fail to germinate, for want of its most essential nutriment, moisiure; and in consequence of such seed lying dormant in the earth, until after another change of the moon, if that luminaiy influences the seed at all, in such case it must be contrary to the objects of the honest planter. As I deem this argument alone sufficient to shake the foundation of moon-planting, in the sense I have described, I shall at once submit to the reader's attention the following observations and table, from the pen of the justly celebrated Dr. Adam Clarke. Some exceptions, however, may be taken to his rules, with regard to the wind, which does not operate in all places alike. For example, in rainy seasons with us, the wind is generally east, northeast, or southeast, and cold weather is attended by a northwest wind. In England, where these calculations were made, it is in some respects different : " From my earliest childhood I was bred up on a little farm, which I was taught to care for and cultivate ever since I was able to spring the rattle, use the whip, manage the OBSERVATIONS ON THE WEATHER. 145 sickle, or handle the spade ; and as I found that much of our success depended on a proper knowledge and management of the weather, I was led to study it ever since I was eight years of age. I believe meteorology is a natural science, and one of the first that is studied ; and that every child in the country makes, untaght, some progress in it ; at least, so it was with me. I had actually learned, by silent obseiTa- tion, to form good conjectures concerning the coming weather, and on this head, to teach wisdom to those who were imper- fect, especially among those who had not been obliged, like me, to watch earnestly, that what was so necessary to the fanvl'j support should not be spoiled by the weather before it was housed. " Many a time, even in tender youth, I have watched the heavens with anxiety, examined the different appearances of the morning and evening sun, the phases of the moon, the scintillation of the stars, the course and colour of the clouds, the flight of the crow and swallow, the gambols of the colt, the fluttering of the ducks, and the loud screams of the seamew, not forgetting the hue and croaking of the frogs. From the little knowledge I had derived from close observa- tion, I often ventured to direct our agricultural operations in reference to the coming days, and was seldom much mistaken in my reckoning. " About twenty years ago, a table purporting to be the work of the late Dr. Herschel, was variously published, pro- fessing to perform prognostics of the weather, by the times of change, full, and quarters of the moon. I have carefully consulted this table for years, and was amazed at his general accuracy : for though long, as you have seen, engaged in the study of the weather, I never thought that any rules could be devised, liable to so few exceptions. I have made a little al- teration in the arrangements, illustrated it with further ob- servations, and have sent it to you that you may insert it, as it has hitherto been confined generally to a few almanacs." 13 146 TABLE AND OBSERVATIONS. A TABLE For telling the IVeatfier tftrougti all the Lunatwns of each Year, for ever. This table and the accompanying remarks are the result of many years' actual observation ; tlie whole being constructed on a due consideration of the attraction of the sun and moon, in their several positions respecting the earth, and will, by simple inspection, sliov? the observer what kind of weatlier will most probably follow the entrance of the moon into any of its quarters, and that so near the truth as to be seldom or never found to fail. o Ci o ?1 a. •n "ZS" ^ _, Ol »* o ^ c •/) ' ' o o_ S rr o = a n> t c^3 m 3 33 p o 3 a -~ 5' =■?= 3 ?:5 r ri. r^^ -J n B 9= — 3" L^ !2 <: o £.-3 — . 01 O B 3 — r ~ ? Ci. O 2 ■ 55 r? < 3 o ^ c fi 1^ "O p Q.^ 3 3"5'"1 _. J. r- 3 CTp p 5' 3 2 J? 3 o-c 3 ° •a 5'S s o-tfi r -• gS'3 = 2-oS "■ •S?'-:p 3 c E — ' S^S 2 fB w C O 52> o 3 M ^ r^ ^ zr n 3"3 ~t ra (. S; o - 3 r„ ' £=S> 5 o S : if /Ae A^e?<; Moo?i — the first Quarter — the Full Moan — or the last Quarter, hdppens ^ > :; :; r t ? occ C5 it>.t30oooai.(>.K)C:3 PP p ppTTpPpppf^-- 33 3 33p33333_S 0.0. O- 0.0.?>CO.O.O.O.S-; »a O 00 C5 *.. 3 % g S'> w ^^A•^ ^ ^ 1^ -5: 73 O P3;pppp33 O V) p3 2. O B. 147 INTRODUCTION TO THE MONTHLY CALENDAR. The object of this Calendar is to assist the memory of the gardener, and to show him, at one glance, that he may- find employment in some of the departments of gardening in every month of the year. The figures refer to the pages in which farther directions may be found, relative to the operations adverted to. In page 30 it has been shown, that the directions accom- panying our Catalogue may be applied to all the climates of the United States, by a minute observance of the diflerence of temperature. It may be here observed, that the soil is susceptible of cul- tivation three months earlier in the remotest South, than in the coldest part of our Northern tenitory ; the Calendar, therefore, for March, maybe applied to the middle of Janu- ary in the warmest climates, and to the middle of April in the coldest ; some exceptions to this rule must, however, be taken in the Southern States after the three spring months, for the following reasons : 1. As warm weather at the South is of longer continuance than in the North, plantations of those species of vegetables denominated tender in the table, page 26, may be made in the open garden from March to August. 2. Exti-eme heat being detrimental to the cultivation of many half-hardy vegetables, such as Broccoli, Cauliflower, Cabbage, Celery, Lettuce, Radish, Turnips, &c., these can only be cultivated in perfection in spring and autumn, the latter crops, therefore, should not be planted till August or September. [See note to article Broccoli, page 49 ; also 52, 72, and 104.] 148 MONTHLY CALENDAR. 3. iJany of the half-hardy class, a, also those designated hardij in our table, may be cultivated throughout the winter months, by forwarding such as are required for early spring use, after the summer crops are taken oft'. [See table, expli- cation, &c., page 26 to 29 ; also page 115. In the Eastern, Western, and Middle States, the annexed Calendar will answer in the order it stands, by apjilying the directions to the beginning of the first sj)ring month in the wai'mest climates, and to the latter end in the coldest cli- mates, bearing in mind that where summer is short, the main crops must follow the early in quick succession, with a view to their matuiity before winter. JANUARY. " Pkognostics foretoken most truly some things. Of summers, and autumns, and winters, and springs j By ttiem from the past we may ail ascertain The fuiure, respecting the winds and the rain." It is customary, at this season of the year, with all prudent men, to look around them, and endeavour to ascertain the results of their industry throughout the past year, in order to make improved arrangements for the future. The mere gardener, having no complicated accounts to adjust, may occupy his time to valuable purposes. If he be not a book- reader, he shoidd be a book-keeper, (see page 14,) and he should frequently take a survey of his former practises and those of his acquaintances, with a view to improve on every thing he has done, or seen done. If he consults writers on Horticulture, he shoidd do as the author has endeavoured to do in preparing this little work for the press ; not adopt the mere theory of a subject, nor indulge in speculative ideas, nor even tread in the Kte[>s of others, but endeavour to erect his edifice of knowledge upon a good settled foundation. In all his pursuits, whether he attempts to follow the examjjle MONTHLY CALENDAR. 149 of practical and exemplary men, hear lectures, or consult authors on the subject, he should do as every sensible man does at his daily meals, take that which suits him best, and leave the lesidue for others. If this little work should be considered worth an annual perusal, he may read the Gene- ral Remarks, in this month, (January,) and make a memo- randum of such things as may be obtained in moments of leisure, in preference to putting it off till it is wanted. I shall endeavour to make my Calendar serve as an index to the book, and in pursuit of my object, shall begin at the General Remarks, page 13, which suggest, that if a man has a garden to form, he wall require fencing materials. If these should be already at hand, every gardener should provide manures, ingredients for the destruction of insects, diilling machines, and other tools ; poles or rods for the support of Peas, Beans, or other climbing plants he may intend to cul- tivate ; and if he intends to use hot-beds, or forcing-frames, he should make arrangements to get compost and heating materials, in time for the work to be performed in the next month. If he depends on this book for information, he may read the General Remarks, from page 13 to 30 ; and also from page 112 to 122, on Forcing Vegetables. FEBRUARY. "A cold.^our autumn, they sternly maintain, A long, severe winter will bring in its train ; If summer and autumn be both dry and warm, Calm opens the winter, it closes in storm." Although stern winter, with its ice-bound chains, exerts its influence over the soil, the gardener may find employment preparatory to commencing his operations of ploughing and planting, as the year progresses. Perhaps the most import- ant business at this season is to collect plenty of manure ; next to this, the gardener, who intends to raise early plants 13* 150 MONTHLY CALENDAR. foi" forcing or otherwise, should see that his hot-bed frames are in good repair and ready for use ; he should also repair his sashes, and make straw mats with which to cover them. In preparing dung or other heating materials for hot-beds or forcing-pits, let it be kept secure from heavy falls of snow or rain, and frequently turned over preparatory to its being made into a bed. With a view to give all attention to cul- ture as the season advances, the gardener should look over his hardy fruit trees and hardy vines, and commence pruning them, by cutting off all dead and superfluous branches ; he may also clean trees from moss and canker, and search for the nests of insects, with a view to destroy them while in a torpid state, to prevent their spreading. If he has trellises, or any implement of husbandry out of repair, he should em- brace the most favourable opportunities of putting them in good condition, and of repairing his fences, &c. Previous to making hot-beds, select a situation that is well protected by a close fence or wall, and not in any way con- nected with any building calculated to harbour rats, mice, moles, &c., which are very apt to take up their abode in warm duug, to the great injury, and sometimes the destruc- tion, of the beds. It is necessary that the foundation for the beds be dryly situated, and not liable to be inundated with water from melted snow, &:c. When all is pi-epared as di- rected in pages 112 and 113, begin to sow Cabbage, Egg- plant, Lettuce, and Tomato seed, 112 ; force Asparagus, 117 ; Kidney Beans, 119; Cucumbers, 121; plant Peas, 132; Potatoes, 133 ; sow Radish seed, 134. In cold-beds, well protected, plant Broad Beans, 119; sow Cabbage seed, 54. After the seed is sown, the beds will require constant attention ; cover them up well in cold nights, and give air at all opportunities, taking care to regulate the heat in the beds, as dii'ected under the different heads, from page 112 to 138. If the heat be excessive, it must be decreased as directed in page IIG ; and if it should become necessary to let off" steam in cold weather, care must be taken to cover the apperturea MONTHLY CALENDAR. 151 sufficiently to keep out frosty air. Give air at all opportu- nities to Cabbage, Cauliflower, Lettuce, and such other plants as may be in frames, of last year's sowing. MARCH. " If the sim appear dim, surrounded with ha/e. And his disk ill-defined, and faded his rays ; If white at his setting, of power if shorn, The signs are all certain, there'll soon be a storm." This month affords considerable employment to an indus- trious gardener. Manure may be drawn on the ground and distributed in heaps, ready to spead, page 24 ; and the hot- beds and forcing-frames will require constant attention. Cover them up warm in cold nights, and give additional air as the season progi'esses, to prevent the plants growing weak, taking care to regulate the heat as directed for the different kinds of vegetables. If any additional frames are to be put down this month, either for forcing or forwarding vegetables, they should be attended to in time, as directed. In order to afford time for cultivating the soil as the weather moderates, the gardener should proceed with his business of pruning and cleaning fruit trees, shrubs, &c., at all opportunities ; and if any removal be necessary, or fresh trees, shrubs, vines, &c., are required, these things should be obtained and planted this month, if possible. Begin the work of the kitchen garden as soon as the earth can be brought into good condition, and transplant haidy Lettuce plants, 73 ; dress Artichoke beds, 33 ; Asparagus, 37 ; Rhu- barb, 91 ; Sea-Kale, 95 ; and prepare to make new planta- tions of these vegetables. Plant Broad Beans, 39 ; Beet seed, 44 ; Rape, 47 ; plant Cauliflower plants under hand- glasses, 51 and 120; sow Cabbage seed, 55 and 112; Car- rot, 59 ; Celery, 60 ; plant Chives, 66 ; Cucumber, in frames, 121 J sow Egg-plant seed, 66; plant Horse-radish, 69; Leek, 15^ MONTHLV CALENDAU. 71 ; Lettuce, 72 ; plant Melon seed in hot-beds, 132 ; sow Onion, 78 ; Parsley, 80 ; Parsnip, 81 ; Pepper, 82 ; plant Peas, 83 ; Potatoes, in frames, 133 ; sow Radish seed, 88 and 134; plant Rocambole, 89; Rhubarb, 90; Sea-Kale, 95; Skir- ret, 97 ; sow Spinach seed, 99; Tomato, 101 and 112; Turnip seed, 104; prepare to make Hop plantations, 139; sow Herb seed, 106 to 108. Plant esculents for seed, beginning with the hardiest kinds ; raise up and plant Cabbage stumps, &c., to produce greens early for the table. In the course of this month, every thing should be forwarded relative to the cul- tivation and preparation of the ground, by levelling such as may have lain in ridges through the winter, and by manuring and digging the soil generally, preparatory to sowing and planting it early in next month. In the event of unfavourable weather in March, the plant- ing of some of the articles above enumerated may be de- layed until the early part f)f April ; l>ut it should be borne in mind that if the hardiest kinds can be planted early, more time will be afforded to other important business, as the sea- son progresses. APRIL. " The state of the wind augurs rain, as they say. When restless in changes, now this, now that way, Or hollow, comes whistling plaintively by, The rain it betokens is probably nigh." This is certainly the most important month in the year for gardening operations. Finish as early as possible the planting of esculents for seed, and see that all plants of the same genus are remote from each other, or they will adul- terate. All the soil of a garden should be dug or ploughed this month if possible, and some of the early crops sowti last month will require hoeing and weeding. Great care should be taken to have good sound seed, as MONTHLY CALENDAR. 153 this is a matter of the utmost importance, and for want of which, many are disappointed in their principal crops when too late to sow again. It is also a mateiial consideration to have the best varieties both of seed and plants of their re- spective kinds. See page 25. If not done last month, make plantations of Artichokes, 31; Asparagus, 35 ; Beans, Vici a faha, 39 ; towards the end of the month, plant Beans, Pkaseolns, 41 and 42 ; Beet seed, 44 ; sow late kinds of Broccoli seed, 48 ; not Cape Bi'occoli until May ; seed of Cabbage for summer use, 55 ; Cardoon, 58 ; Carrot, 59 ; Celery, 60 ; sow Cress seed, 64 ; plant Cu- cumber in frames, 124 ; sow Endive, 68 ; plant Horse Radish, 69 ; Indian Corn, 70 ; Jerusalem Aitichokes, 70 ; sow Leek seed, 71; Lettuce seed, 72; plant Melon in hot-beds, 132; sow Mustard seed, 76 ; plant Nasturtium, 76 ; sow Onion seed, 78 ; Parsley, 80 ; Parsnip, 81 ; plant Peas, 83 ; Pota- toes, 85 ; Sweet Potatoes, 86 ; sow Radish seed, 88 ; plant Rocambole, 89 ; Rhubarb, 90 ; Salsify, 92 ; Scorzonera, 93 ; Sea Kale, 94 ; sow Skirret, 97 ; Spinach, 99 ; Tomato, 101, 112, and 136; Turnip seed, 104; Turaip-rooted Cabbage in varieties, 56 ; make Hop plantations, 139. Sow the seed of Angelica, Anise, Basil, Burnet, Boreage, Caraway, Chervil, Clary, Coriander, Dill, Fennel, Pot Marigold, Sweet Marjoram, Patience, Dock, Sorrel, Summer Savory, Small- age, Thyme, Bene, Boneset, Catnep, Celandine, Saffron, and such other Aromatic, Sweet, and Medicinal Herbs as may be required. Also separate and transplant all kinds of Pe- rennial Herb roots, such as Mint, Pennyroyal, Sage, Winter Savory, Tarragon, and Medicinal Herbs in general, as de- scribed page 106 to 108. If not done last month, attend to the spring dressing of Artichoke beds, 33 ; Asparagus, 37 ; Rhubarb, 91 ; Sea Kale, 95. Besides the work of sowing and planting the various kinds of seed above enumerated, all the strongest plants of Cab- bage, Cauliflower, and Lettuce, must be taken from the hot- beds and frames, and transplanted into the regular beds in 154 MONTHLY CALENDAR. the open garden. Attend to such other business in this de^ partment as may have been left undone last month, and see that the garden be kept neat and free from weeds. MAY. " Much dew on the grass portends, as all say, That day which succeeds will be a clear day ; But when no dew moistens the grass on the plain. Kind Heaven requites it by sending it rain." As the warm weather progresses, the gardener should be on the alert, in order to conquer the various kinds of insects. Burn damp litter, stubble, leaves, weeds, tScc, neai' fruit trees, and sow ashes over the ground. Attend to plantations of Cabbages, Cauliflower, &c. ; hoe them fn^quently, and draw earth to their stems ; look out for and destroy grub worms, caterpillars, and other insects, 18 to 21 ; thin out the early plantings of Beets, Carrots, Parsnips, Salsify, tScc, and de- stroy weeds, to prevent their seeding the ground. Plant an.d sow such kinds of seed as were omitted last month ; the sowing of Celery, Leek, Onion, Parsley, Parsnip, Salsify seed, &c., should be attended to without farther delay. Transplant Cabbage, Lettuce, Tomato, Egg-plants, &c., from the hot-beds and warm borders. Plant Beans, 41 and 42; Beet, 44 ; Borecole, 4G ; Brussels Sprout seed, 47 ; Cape Broccoli, 49 ; Cauliflower, 53 ; Cabbage, 55 and 56 ; Cai^ rot, 59 ; Cress, G4 ; plant Cucumber, 65 ; sow Endive, 68 ; plant Indian Corn, 70 ; Melon, 74 ; Water Melon, 75 ; sow Mustard seed, 76 ; plant Nasturtium, 76 ; Okra, 77 ; Pepper, 82 ; Peas, S3 ; Potatoes, 85 ; Potatoes, Sweet, 86 ; Pumpkins, 87 ; sow Radish seed, 88 ; Squash, 100 ; Tomato, 101 ; early in this month finish sowing all kinds of Aromatic, Pot, Sweet, and Medicinal Herbs, 106 to 108. Some of the old hot-beds may bo spawned for Muslirooms, but it is best %o form new ones. Uncover productive beds once a week, MONTHLY CALENDAR. 155 and gather the produce ; clear them of weeds and wet litter, and put a little dry hay or straw next the bed. Prepare fresh spawn, &c., 125 to 130. Watering will now frequently be required for newly planted vegetables, both at the time of transplanting, and occasion- ally afterward, in dry weather, until the roots are established in the soil. Likewise seed-beds recently sown, till the young plants become vigorous. Weeding must be very diligently attended to, both by hand and hoe ; for as weeds grow luxuriantly, it is necessary to eradicate them before they spread too far, as, by neglect, they will not only impede the growth, but eventually smother the plants. Toward the end of the month, top such of the English Broad Beans as may be in blosscjm, to promote the swelling of the pods, as well as their early maturity. [See page 40.J Those who have young families should not fail sowing some Bene-plant seed, as the plant, by being steeped in a glass of water, produces a glutinous liquid, which is an effi- cacious remedy for the summer complaint. It may be sown in drills and managed the same as salad or Parsley. [See Herbs, 107.1 JUNE, " The sky dress'd in placid soft redness at night Portends the next day will be cloudless and bright j A fierce angry redness tlmt shoots up at morn, And tinges the clouds, is a token of storm." The principal sowing seasons for general crops may be considered as past, but there are many kinds of seed which may be sown this month ; and the gardener should ascertain the success of his former plantings, in order to make up any deficiencies from failures, before the season be too far ad- vanced. By this time some of the early crops will be cleared off, and such ground as was manured for the early crops of 156 MONTHLY CALENDAR. Lettuce, Radishes, Spinach, &:c., will be excellent for late Beets and Carrots. Hoe and thin out all standing crops, and ciean vacant ground, to prevent weeds from running to seed. If the ground be dry, frequent hoeing will be bene- ficial. Use means to destroy insects ; read pages 18 to 21 for information on this subject. Plant Kidney Beans, 41 and 42 ; Beet seed, 44. If the seedling plants of Broccoli, Cau- liflower, Cabbage, &:c., failed last month, sow again early this month. Water the beds frequently, and sow tobacco dust, soot, ashes, &c., or use the liquid recommended, page 19. Transplant Cabbage, Celery, &c., for summer use ; transplant Cardoons, 58 ; sow Carrot seed in drills, 59 ; plant Cucumber seed in hills, 65 ; sow Endive, 68 ; j^lant Indian Com, 70; transplant Leeks, 71 ; Okra seed may be planted early in this month, 77 ; plant Peas, if dry weather, soak them five or six hours in water, 83 ; plant Potatoes, 85 ; Potatoes, Sweet, 86 ; Pumpkin seed, 87 ; sow summer Radish seed, 89 ; plant Squash, 100. As the herbs come into flower, they should be cut on a dry day, and spread in a shady place to dry for winter use, 108. Conduct Hop vines to the poles, and when they have reached the top, nip ofi'the tops to strengthen the stems, 140. Hoe between the Artichokes, and in order to have the main top fruit attain its full size, detach the sri.all suckers, or lateral heads. [See page 34.] Early Cauliflowers, which will now be progressing toward maturity, must be watered in dry weather ; and as the heads begin to exhibit themselves, break down some of the large leaves over them to protect them from the rays of the sun, and from rain, 52. Keep Asj^aragus clear of weeds, and also Onions ; and give those beds that are to stand for ripening, a final thin- ning, as suggested in page 78. MONTHLY CALENDAR. 157 JULY. " When floivers toward evening their blossoms expand, And bask in the sunbeams, there's no rain at hand ; But wlien they close up as if conscious of fear, They augur its coming — it no doubt is near." This is a very important month for transplanting Cabbage, Cardoons, Celery, Endive, Leeks, Pepper plants, &c., for full autumn crops. Prepare trenches for the Celery plants beforehand, in order that they may be ready to catch the rain. Leeks may be transplanted in dry weather, by first steeping the roots in mud, and Cabbage plants too, if there be the least moisture in the ground when it is freshly tuined over. As grub-worms are apt to devour Cabbage plants early in this month, those persons anxious to transplant any quantity, may dip the roots in fish oil, and then dry them in plaster of Paris, whicli will not only annoy the worms, but prove bene- ficial as manures, 19 and 20. If transplanting in general be delayed to the middle of the month, grub-worms will be harmless, 55. If Beets and Carrots have failed, the seed may produce good roots by autumn, if planted early in the month ; plant Beans, 41 ; Cabbage seed may be sown now for Collards, 57 ; plant Cucumber seed for picklers, 6G ; sow Endive seed, and transplant the farmer sowing, 68 ; if Peas be planted now, they should be soaked in soft water five or six hours, 83 ; Potatoes may be planted early in this month, 85 ; and Pumpkins, if not done last month, 87. Sow summer Radish seed in dinlls, 89 ; sow Turnip-rooted Cabbage seed, in varieties, 50) ; this is a good season for Ruta Baga, or Rus- sian Turnip, 105 ; and the common kinds of Turnip seed may be sown toward the end of this month, 101. Attend to plantations of Hops, 140 ; whatever herbs may be required for winter use, should be cut off and dried as they come into flower ; Bumet, Chervil, Fennel, Mint, Parsley, Sweet Mar- joiam, TaiTagon, Thyme, Winter and Summer Savory, may all be cut this month, 106 to 108. 14 158 MONTHLY CALENDAR. The business of sowing and transplanting will be more successful if done in moist or showery weather, or on the approach of rain, or immediately after, especially for preca- rious seed, and young seedling plants. Attend to the Mush- room beds, and give light waterings, or expose them to warm moderate showers occasionally, 130. AUGUST. " When clouds slow dissolve, as if turned into air. And vanisii from sigiil, the next day will be fair; But when, in succession, they dariier appear, ■ With watery aspect, then know rain is near." The planting season being nearly over, now is the time to hoe around the plants and clear the ground of weeds and stubble. Dig or plough vacant ground ready for fall Tur- nips, Spinach, Shalhjts, Fetticus, &c. As the ground for the latter crops may require manure, it will be greatly improved if plonglicJ before the manure is drawn on, which should be afterward spread and ploughed under. Plant Beans for picklers, 41 ; sow Cabbage seed for Col- lards, 57 ; earth up Cardoons, 58 ; do. Celery, G2 ; sow Corn Salad, or Fetticus seed, 63; the early kitids of Cucumber may produce picklers if planted early in this month, 66; transplant Endive, and prepare to blanch the early plantings, 68; sow Lettuce for autumn use, 73 and 125; sow Onion seed to stand the winter, 78 ; Peas may be planted thus late, if desired, 83; sow summer Radish seed, 89; prepare for planting Shallots by the end of this month, 97 ; sow Tui'uip seed for full crops, 101; attend to such herbs as were not gathered last month ; cut oft" and dry Sage, and other late herbs, 106 to 108. Hops will bo ripe this month ; choose a dry season for gathering them, and attend to them as direct- ed, page 140 ; this is a good season for preparing to make Mushroom beds, in close sheds, cellars, or pits ; if the tTiat§' MONTHLY CALENDAR. 159 lials be gathered this month, indigenous spawn may be col- lected next, but those that can procure spawn may make the beds at any time, or they may pursue Mr. Nichol's plan, 128. Artichokes will be in perfection this month, and should be cut for use as soon as the scales of the head expand, and before they open in the heart for flowering ; and as you cut them, break down the stems to promote the growth of root offsets, 34. In dry weather hoe and plough between such vegetables as may have been planted in rows, which will not only destroy weeds, but encourage the growth of the plants. Frequent hoeing in dry weather will be more beneficial than the watering-pot. Early sown Onions, being now of mature growth, and full bulbed, should be pulled up in dry weather and exposed to the sun to ripen ; frequently turning them, that they may harden equally for keeping ; then clear them from the gross part of the stalks, and loose outer skins, earth, &c., and ro' Oiove them to a place of shelter, 78. Continue to gather seed of all kinds as they ripen, and prepare vacant ground for late crops ; such as Spinach, Shal- lot, Onion, Fetticus, &c., 98, SEPTEMBER. " Light vapours o'er valleys and rivers at night, Foretokens the next day salubrious and bright ; Especially when they at morning appear To rise up the hill sides, and vanish in air." Although the sowing season is nearly over, the crops on the ground require attention constantly. Endive may still be transplanted for winter use. Hoe Cabbage and other vegetables, and attend to the earthing of Celery as it pro- gresses in growth. Tie up Endive plants for blanching, 68 ; SOW Rape, 47; Cauliflower seed, 51; Cabbage, 54; CoiiJ 160 MONTHLY CALENDAR. Salad, or Fetticus, 63 ; Cress, Rape, &c., every ten days, for a salad, 64; sow Mustard, for the same purpose, 76; sow Lettuce, 73 and 125 ; Onion, to stand the winter, 78 ; Radish, for fall use, 89 ; plant Shallots, 97 ; sow Spinach seed eveiy week or ten days, 98 ; Turnijis will sometimes come to ma- turity if the seed be sown the early part of this month, and those sown last month will need hoeing as they progress in gi-owth, 104. Continue to gather, dry, and pack Hops as they ripen, 140 ; also all Aromatic, Sweet, and Medicinal Herbs, 108 ; this is a good season to make Mushroom beds in sheltered situa- tions ; they may be spawned with indigenous or artificial spawn, as may be most convenient. [For directions to pre- serve spawn, &c., see pages 126 and 127.] Toward the end of this montl), or early in the next, is a good season to increase all kinds of herbaceous plants, by parting the roots, but it should be done in cloudy or wet weather ; at the same time, such herbs as were raised from seed sown in the spring, may be transplanted into separate beds or borders, 100 to 108. In this month must be finished all the princijial sowings and plantings necessary this year; on this account such ground as is intended for principal crops next year, should be well manured jsrevious to planting it. [See Spinach, 98.] Cucumber vines should be looked over, and the fruit gathered as it becomes fit for pickling, as a very slight frost will destroy Cucumbers, 66. MONTHLY CALENDAR. 161 OCTOBER. " A warm, open winter doth often succeed A hot and dry summer, by all 'tis agreed ; A hard, frosty winter its rigour retains. And holcis gentle spring in its cold icy chains." The principal winter crops being planted, it will be neces- sary to prepare for maturing and gathering some of the fall crops. Weed out Fetticus, Spinach, &c. Hoe and earth up Celery ; do it in dry weather, and not even while the dew is on it, 62. Toward the end of the month, frames must be provided for the protection of Parsley, Lettuce, and of such Cabbage and Cauliflower plants as were raised from seed sown last month. Begin to dig and secure all kinds of vegetables soon enough to get the whole placed away be- fore the end of the next month. Take up Potatoes and buiy them in pits, so as to secure them from wet and frost, or put them in a warm cellar. Proceed to take up other roots ; begin with the most tender kinds, or do that which is re- quired to be done in dry weather, while it is so. Collect Pumpkins and winter Squashes, and expose them to the wind and air on a dry bench, or ledge, before they are stowed away. Dig up Beets, and secure them in pits, or pack them in sand in a cellar. . Aromatic, Pot, and Medicinal Herbs, should now have a thorough cleaning and dressing ; by destroying all weeds, cutting away all decayed stalks, digging between such plants as will admit of it, and spreading earth over others, as sug- gested, page 108. Tie up full-grown plants of Endive every week in dry weather, for blanching in succession, as required, 68. Hoise-radish may now be dug for use as wanted, by trenching along each row to the bottom of the upright roots, leaving the old stools for future pioduction, 69. Jerusalem Artichokes may be dug up for use, or to preserve for vnnter consumption, 71. 14* 162 MONTHLY CALENDAR. NOVEMBER. "When nuts are but few, and they small and hollow, A cold and wet harvest, there's no doubt, will follow ; But when they are plenty, and yood, 'tis agreed, A rich, golden harvest is sure to succeed." Endeavour to avoid having your garden products frozen fast in tlie ground. Begin in good earnest to secure them ; in fine weather dig up Beets, Carrots, and as many Skirret, Salsify, and other hardy roots as will be required for winter use, and pack them close together in pits ; give them a coat of straw, and afterward heap on as much earth as will keep out the frost, or stow them in a cellar. Toward the end of the month. Turnips may be secured in the same way. Take up Celery in dry weather, and strike it in close together against a ridge, which should be previously formed in a Btraieht line, about a foot aliove the level of the surface ; throw up earth from the trench sufficient to cover them about an inch, and then plant row after row as close and upright as it can be placed, with just sufficient earth between every row to keep the roots and stalks from touching each other. The whole being covered up with earth, some long dung or litter may be thrown over it, sufficient to keep out the frost ; and by heaping a good layer of manure against the last row of Celery, it may be taken out at any time in the winter for use. Some erect a board shed over to protect it from wet ; a small quantity may be kept in a cellar. Cabbage must be taken up and laid in rows against a ridge, so as to form a square, compact, close-growing bed, the roots and stems being buried up to the lower leaves of the Cabbages. The beds may afterward be covered with straw, or a temporary shed may be erected over them. Cabbage will keep for some months in a cellar, if connected with their roots. For the management of Broccoli and Cauliflower, see articles, pages 48, 51, and 120. Borecole, Brussels Sprouts, and Col- lards, may be taken up and stowed away like Cabbages. MONTHLY CALENDAR. 163 Cardoons may be laid in like Celery, or presei'ved in sand in a cellar. Leeks may be taken up and laid in rows close together against a ridge, and covered up as far as the lower leaves. If the last row be protected from frost by a coat of stable dung, they can be taken out when required for use. Corn Salad, Spinach, and Lettuce, may be protected by a covering of straw, salt hay, or cedar biaish. For the man- agement of Artichoke beds, see page 32 ; Asparagus, 37 ; Rhubarb 91 ; Sea-Kale, 95. Dig up roots of Horse-radish in the manner recommended last month, to preserve in sand or pits, for use when the ground is frozen or ice-bound. Do the like by Jerusalem Artichokes, which are now in their full perfection. At the same time take up as many Parsnips and other hardy roots, as will be required for use the next three months. Spread short horse dung over the Onions that were sown in August and September, which will protect them through the winter. DECEMBER. " A wet, sultry summer, prog:nostics affirm, A boist'rous autumn will bring in its turn ; A cold, sour autumn and summer portend A winter severe from beginning to end." If all was not done as directed last month, there is no time to be lost. Every thing that needs protection should now be attended to, and if the weather continues open, some of the ground may be ploughed or trenched, to receive the benefit of winter frosts. Collect all your Pea-sticks and Bean-poles together, and place them under cover to prevent their rotting. Turn over compost heaps, and provide manure for another year. Those who are desirous of having Cucumbers or Melons early in the ensuing spring, and have not the convenience 164 MONTHLY CALENDAR. for forcing them in the ordinary way, may dig a few grass sods or turfs, before it freezes hard, and stow them away out of the reach of frost, through the winter. These being placed on the top of a hot-bed, in March, or early in April, with the grass downward, and Cucumber or Melon seed planted in the earthy part thereof, early plants may be pro- duced, which can be removed with the turfs without dis- turbing their growth, and cultivated either on the ridge sys- tem, as lecommended in page 132, or in the open ground, provided they can be kept growing in frames until settled warm weather. This is also an excellent plan in early forcing, as it saves trouble as well as risk in transplanting seedling plants into the fruiting beds. If not done last month, dress your Artichoke beds, and cover them as recommended in page 32. Defend Mushroom beds with dry straw, or long stable litter, and cover such as may be exposed, with mats, as security against cold. In all moderate weather during the winter, give air to Cabbage, Cauliflower, Lettuce, and such other plants as may be in frames, being careful to cover them every night with mats, boards, litter, &:c., as necessity may require. As the year is drawing to a close, I would solicit the gar- dener to review the results of his practice throughout the past season, that he may be able to judge how to act for the future. In sketching a plan of his garden for the next year, he ought to make pro\asion for a full supply of such vegetables as are best calculated to sell, and yield a fair profit; with this object in view, I would suggest that he take a retrospective view of his previous management, and also of the directions given in the preceding chapter relative to the preparation of the soil, by ploughing, trenching, pulverizing, manuring, &c., as circumstances may require ; bearing in mind, that although clayey soils may be benefited by fall ridging, light sandy ground should lay flat through the winter. 165 TO THE PEOPLE OF THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. FELLOW-CITIZENS : An application having been made to your Representatives in Congress to ■vote a sum equal to five cents from each individual in the United States, OK ABOUT A MILLION DOLLARS OF YOUR RESOURCES, tO the pfomotion of aU improved system of " Terra-culture" as described in Senate, Document No, 23, of the third session of the 25th Congress, I hereby direct your attention to a fev? extracts taken from the applicant's preamble ; copies of which were forwarded to each member of the 26th Congress, in session, November 30, 1839, by Russell Comsiock- Prom the Poughkeepsie Eagle, of January 25, 1840. PRESERVATION OF FRUIT TREES, PLANTS, &c GREAT DISCOVERY. •' To the Hon. Perry Smith, Chairman of the United States Senate Com- mittee on Agriculture of the 25th Congress. " With the consent and by the advice on the 23d inst., of the chairman of the United States Senate Committee on Agriculture of the 25th Congress, I forward to each member *'of the 26th Congress the accompanying document dated the 14th inst; the object is to show you some of the p?-oo/ that a discovery of vital importance to civilized nian has been made, which in several letters from different members of the present and last Congress is valued at hundreds of mil- lions OF days' labour, and worth MORE THAN ALL THE DISCOVE- BIES OF THE PRESENT AGE COMBINED — THE APPLICATION OF STEAM HOT EXCEPTED. " For what purpose would all the owners of the public lands more freely or gratefully consent to give one hundreth part of those lands, or the pro- ceeds thereof! Would they not be grateful to those members of Congress, who assist in giving the owners of the public domain the desired informa- tion, and reverence them as benefactors of human kind. " For the honour of the Republic, for the honour of the age, and for the interest and comfort of the living, as well as the unborn, let not that disco- very which may cause two seeds to ripen where one now does, which pre- vents the premature death of all cultivated trees, which has been searched for in vain during the history of all civilized society, die with the discoverer for want of the action of the United States Congress." Our patriotic discoverer " claims the following five discoveries as hia, besides other discoveries which are stated in bis memorial to tbe 2dth Con- gress: 16C Ist " That various diseasps, universally suppoaed to be destructive to plants are only isym)itoms tliat a particular error in cultivation has been committed ; and that many other injurious effects have been produced by the same error, which are attributed to other causes. 2d. " That the error is universally committed, to a greater or less extent, throughout tlie States, and that he has seen an excess of it where- ever he has been, whicli is in the Atlantic States, from Georgia to Massa- chusetts, inclusive. 3d. "That the Peach and Nkctarinf. are more easily injured by the error than most otjier Fruit trees, and theciiitse of their being more easily injured by it ; and that this error causes them to be barren, or short-lived. 4th. " That the application of two known laws in nature demonstrate the reality of his discovery and its aupIic.UiC-n to the whole vegetable king- dom ; and that by them, iiis discovery, (if jiubiicly known,) must be per- petuated, and his practice more easily intnxiuced : and that by these two laws the occasional success of common remedies is explained. 5th. " That the said error is the obstacle which has discouraged experi- menters, and lamentably retarded improvements in the science and practice of agriculture ; and that he has discovered facts and made himself acquainted with knowledge sutficient to reduce them to practice." We are farther informed. " that it is neither climate, nor soil, nor insects, nor worms, that are the cause of many of the disastrous effects that have been attributed to them, but that those etlects are produced by error in cul- tivation, which diseases the smallest plant or largest tree." Our modest and pafriufic ffJluw-cifizei) admits, in the course of hia preamble, " that the practical part of his discovery is so extremely simple and economical, that it costs no more to prevent the diseases than it does to produce them ; and that it is so different from the estaM;shed theories and hal)its of the people, that unless a large amount be appro- priated, many will be unwilling to try it, and therefore the public good seems to require that a large amount should be appropriated." He more- over asserts, that "there are two known laws in nature, by which the reality of his discovery, and its application to the whole vegetable kingdom, are demonstrable in less than thirty words." That this invaluable secret, whatever it may be, is not strictly speaking a new discovery, is demonstrable by numerous living witnesses which have inhabited the fields of the old world for over a thousand years ; and our discoverer freely admits, and in very emphatic language, that there are thousands of trees in our own country on wliich, what he terms "the com- mon error " has never been committed ; and also, that several of the lifteen gentlemen to whom he communicated his secret, ''confidently for ever, ^^ have some such trees on their own domains. Hear l)im — "The Senator from Missouri, (Mr. Linn,) said, that the most flourishing and healthy Peach tree in his )>ossession had never had what I call the common error in cultivation committed upon it." "The Senator from Pennsylvania, (Mr. McKean,) said, that he had long supposed that what I call the common error was an error, but that he had no idea of such extensive evils arising from it." "The Senator from Maryland, (Mr, Spence.) said, that in his district it was a universal custom to commit what I call the common error in cultiva- tion, on the fruit trees, and that it was common to have no Plums perfect 167 and free from worms, excepting on a few of his, on which the error had not been committed for twenty years, if ever ; and those few (four) contiuuBd to boar abundantly annually ; that he had no recollection of ever seeing an imperfect wormy Plum on either of these four trees, but that he had never supposed that to have been the cause of their perfection." The Senator from South Carolina, (Mr. Calhoun,) to whom I am indebted for pointing out one symptom of the error, and for a valuable suggestion in the culture of plants, said, "while examining the defective trees aroiiriL! the Capitol, that the principle when exhibited was very plain and simple, that it was philosophical, and in his opmion it could not be neglected without injury to the health and growth of trees and plants, and deserving of pub- lic patronage." "The Vice President of the United States, (Mr. Johnson,) said, that my discovery was perfectly consistent with the laws of nature ; and (when observing a few trees near the Capitol, which had been injured by the error, and were recovering,) farther remarked, that my theory was essentially cor- rect and obvious to the most superficial observer." "The member from New-York, (Mr. Jackson,) said, that he had reared an orchard on which he had carefully avoided an excess of what I call the common error, and that it had been admired as the most flourishing and fruitful orchard in the neighbourhood ; and that he had recently seen a field of Indian corn, which yielded more than one hundred bushels of shelled grain to the acre, in which an excess of the error had been avoided, while the success was attributed to quite a different cause." From the preceding extracts, it is evident that this inestimable treasrwe lays near the surface ; and from the disclosure having been communicated to rational and intelligent minds, it is preposterous to expect that those gentleman can, in the pursuit of their rural avocations, act directly con- trary to knowledge and sound judgment ; they must, therefore necessarily and unavoidably communicate the secret by their example, which will eventually disseminate in proportion as mankind take an interest in the merits of the alleged discovery. But lest the full benefits of this invaluable remedy should be withheld from the community for want of the action of the United States Congress, I have submitted an exposition of my views of the particular points adverted to in the preamble, which may be found under the heads, Necta- rine, Peach, and Plum, pages 91, 98 and 124 of the third part of the present edition of the Young Gardener's Assistant ; and I would furthermore remind my readers that the directions heretofore given in this and previous editions of the work are in strict accordance wi{h the same doctrine ; and that although the error alluded to is admitted to have been very generally committed, I am not aware that any writer has ever taught or encouraged the error, either direct or indirect ; I confess, however, that I have been induced to expatiate on this rnalpractice in horticulture from the subject having elicited the grave consideration of enlightened legislators of these United States. And lest these my voluntary disclosures should prove to have no bearing on the alleged discovery, I would prepare the public mind for its reception by an exhortation to temperance and moderation, as the on/y safe course that can be considered applicable to the cultivation of all t/ie varied species of plants, which comprise " the whole vegetable kingdom." In 168 articles page 26 of the first part, and pages 16, 2S and 97 of the second part, I have shown that the various species of plants which occupy our greenhouses, gardens, and fields, require each their peculiar aliment — they having been collected from all the diversified regions, climates, and soils through earth's remotest bounds ; they consequently comprise natives of mountains and rocks, as well as of plains, valleys, and veater courses. The most essential aliment for natives of warm climates and dry soils being HEAT, artificial means are used in cool seasons, and unpropitious climates to produce it. Natives of temperate climates require salubrious air, hence they are cultivated to the greatest perfection in our Northern States in spring and autumn ; and in our Southern States in the winter; seepage 147 of the first part; and natives of humid climates, as also amphibious plants in general, require a more than ordinary share of moisture, and grow best in wet soil; but these three elements collectively constitute the food of plants in general, and should be judiciously imparted to the various species, in due proportions, according to circumstances. See pages 49, 64 and 67 of the fir^t part, for a more concise view of this subject. I have also shown that the roots of various species of plants require each their peculiar aliment, which is not to be found in all descriptions of land; this is demonstrated by roots of trees being frequently discovered spreading beyond their ordinary bounds in quest of salutary food. Although it has leen admitted that excessive deep planting of trees and plants is injurious, and in many ca.ses fatal to their very existence, it does not follow thai all annuals and biennials are injured by the same means; on the contrary, the earthing up of particular species of plants in a late stage of growth is calculated to promote early maturity, which constitutes the most essential art in gardening for the n)arket ; because the earliest crops are always the most profitable. It is moreover a necessary practice in climates where the seasons for gardening are short — as without such practice, many kinds of vegetables could not possibly be matured in due season for gathering before winter. I would here take the opportunity of proving this last position, by reminding the reader that the effects of deep planting, the Peach tree for instance, is discoverable soon after the error iscommitted, by its fruit ripen- ing prematurely, and this is often the case for a year or two prior to its final decease, and should operate as a salutary lesson against planting perennial plants and trees too deep. In conclusion of this article, which is intended as an appendage to my works on gardening, I would urge gardeners and cultivators to consult the operations of nature in all their rural pursuits ; and with a view to aid them, I subjoin the following rules, which are farther illustrated under the different heads : 1. In transplantiug fruit trees, let the collar, or that part from which emanate the main roots, be near the surface. A medium sized tree may be planted an inch deeper than it was in the nursery bed ; and the largest should not exceed two or three inches See pages 93, 101 and 125 of the third part of the present edition of the Young Gardener's Assistant. 2. In the cultivation of such plants as are transplanted, or grown in hills or clusters, as Indian Corn, &c.. keep the earth loose but level around them in their early stages of growth, by frequent hoeing, ploughing, or cuiti- 169 Tating ; and to promote early maturity, throw a moderate portion of earth about the roots and stems at the last or final dressing. 3. In the sowing of seed, remember that in unity there is strength, and that from the germinative parts of a seed being weak and diminutive, it cannot be expected to perforate through the soil, solitary and alone. To insure a fair chance plant your seed moderately thick, and thin out the surplus plants while young. In planting seed in drills, which is the most eligible plan, the size of the seed and strength of its germ should be consi- dered ; large seed, producing vigorous roots, require deeper planting than diminutive seed, producing delicate roots and slender stalks. 4. In the choice of compost for exotic or greenhouse plants, imitate the native soil of each peculiar species as nearly as possible, by a judicious mixture of maiden earth, loam, sand, leaf, swamp, and rock mould, decom- posed manures, and such other composts as are recommended under the different heads. Rememler, that although strong manure is essential to the growth of some plants, it is poisonous to others. Pursue, then, a MEDIUM COURSE. From your soil not being too stiff or two light, too rich or too poor, too cool or too warm, too close or too porous, if not positively salutary and congenial to all, it must render the situation of each endura- ble. I again repeat, 'that temperance in the use of aliment, is as essential to the welfare of the vegetable family as it is to the health, happiness, and longevity of mankind. T. BRIDGEMAN. New-York, March 4, 1840. 8:5- Since this address has been in press, I have seen another article in the Poiighkeepsie Eagle, dated February 29, 1840, wherein our modest and patriotic discoverer gratuitously pronounces his knowledge as superior to that of " all Botanical and Agricultural knoivn writers .'" As I have anticipated the merits of this second valuable discovery in my books, I have nothing more to say than to remind the reader that this uncalled for attack on the brethren of my fraternity, fully justifies not merely the publication, but the most general circulation of these my voluntary disclosures. RETROSPECTIVE VIEW. This summary view of estimates is annexed, in order to aid the Seeds- man and Gardener in making out a bill of seed for the purpose of planting any given quantity of ground, under the regulations suggested in the Vegetable Department of the Young Gardener's Assistant, to which the reader is referred for a more concise view of the subject. Page. Artichoke ; an ounce of seed will produce 600 plants, - - 31 Asparagus; one ounce will be sufficient for 1000 plants - - 36 Beans, English Dwarf; one quart of seed will be required for every sixty feet of row, .-....,. 40 Beans, Kidney Dwarf ; one quart of seed will plant from 350 to 400 hills, or from 230 to 260 feet of row, . . . . , 42 170 RETROSPECTIVE VIEW. Pagev Beans Pole, or Running ; one quart of Lima, or large running Beans will plant about 300 hills, or 250 feet of row, - - - - 43 Beet ; one ounce may be allotted for every perch, or pole, - - 45 Borecole, or Kale , an ounce will produce 4000 plants, - - 46 Broccoli ; one ounce is sufficient for 4000 plants, - - - - 50 Cauliflower ; an ounce of this seed will produce 4000 plants, - 53 Cabbage ; one ounce will produce 4000 plants, - . - - 65 Cardoon Artichoke ; an ounce will produce 600 plants, - - 53 Carrot ; half an ounce may be allotted for every pole, - - - 59. Celery ; an ounce of seed will produce 10,000 plants, - - - 60, Corn Salad, or Fetticus ; one ounce of seed will sow about two poles of ground, -, 63 Cucumber ; one ounce of seed is sufficient for 200 hills, - - 65 Egg Plant ; an ounce of seed will produce 4000 plants, . . 67 Endive, or Succory ; an ounce will yield 5000 plants, - - - 68 Leek; one ounce of seed may be allotted for 3000 plants, ^ - 71 Lettuce; an ounce will produce, say 10.000 plants, - - - 73 Melon ; one ounce of seed will produce from 120 to 150 hills, - 74 Melon, Water ; an ounce will plant from 40 to 50 hills, - - 75 Onion ; one ounce of seed may be allotted for every pole, • - IS Parsley ; two ounces may be allowed for three perches, - - 80 Parsnip ; two ounces may be allotted for three perches, - « 81 Pepper; one ounce of seed will produce 3000 plants, - - - 82 Peas ; one quart will plant from 150 to 200 feet of row, - - 84 Potatoes ; from twelve to sixteen bushels may be allotted for an acre, 85-. Potatoes, Sweet ; half a peck of seed, properly managed, will produce 15 bushels, 86. Pumpkin ; one quart of field Pumpkin will plant from 500 to 600 hills, and one ounce of the finest kinds will plant from 50 to SO hills, 87 Radish ; four ounces will do for every three perches, if sown broad- cast, and about half the quantity if sown in drills, - - - 89 Salsify ; two ounces of this seed will plant three perches, - - 93 Shallots; four bushels of bulbs will plant forty poles, - - - 9S Spinach ; if cultivated in drills, four ounces will plant five perches of land. If broadcast, it will require double the quantity, - - 99 Squash; an ounce of seed will plant from 50 to 100 hills, according to sorts and size, - -- -.-.. lOO Tomato; one ounce of seed will produce 4000 plants, - - 101 Turnip ; one pound of seed is sufficient for an acre of land, - 105- QUANTITY OF GRASS SKKD SUITAnLK TO THE ACRE Clover, sown alone, - - 12 pounds. Timothy, 1 p<-ck. Herds Grass, 1 bushel. OrchT.I Gra.«, - - - 2 bushels. Kye G;asH. - 2 bu.-.he!s. LnciTiie; - 8 poundrj. For a pasture for grazing, the followinsi mixtures of sred would be found excellent, viz : 6 pounds of clover seed, 1 pock of luTds grass, and half a bushel of Orchard grass seed -or G pounds clover, half a bushel of rye grass, and half a bushel of tall meadow oat seed. 171 COMMENDATORY NOTICES. "The first edition of "The Young Gardener's Assistant" has been favourably noticed in France : — "One of the leadin;? articles of the Annates de L'ln.itilute Royul Horlicole de Fromont, is a long notice of " The Young Gardener's Assistant," by Mr. Thomas Bridgeman, of this city. The editor, Le Chevaher Soulange Bodin, speaks of the little work in very commendable terms." — Ni:W York Fanner, Extract of a review of this work in the Magazine of Horticulture, Botany, &c., published by Hovey & Co., Boston : "The work is written in plain language, easily to be understood by the young beginner in gardening, who will find it a great help ; and its value, even to tlie experienced person, is by no means of an ordinary character. It is adapted to our climate, and unlike compilations from English works, the novice is not led into disappointment by following tlie rules there laid down, as he generally is, when following the advice of the latter. We repeat, that as far as the book pretends, it is worth all otheks of A SIMILAR CHARACTER TUAT HAVE EVER BEEN PUBLISHED IN THIS COUN- TRY ; and its cheapness should place it in the hands of all new beginners." " No work ever published has been so studiously written to give plain useful information. By being arranged in the form of a catalogue, you can turn in a moment to any name you desire, where the time of sowing, depth, soil, after treatment, &c. &c., is clearly defined. The Calendarial Index, giving a summary of work for every month, is itself worth the whole price of the book, and nmst have cost the author much research and labor- ious thought. Mr. Bridgeman is not a theorist, but is in the daily practice of what he writes, and of course well qualified to direct all beginners in the profitable and delightful employment of cultivating a garden, ' a profession and an employment for which no man is too liigli or too low.' " — Genessee Farmer. " It will, we are persuaded, be found, what the writer intends it shall be, 'generally useful to such as may wish to superintend, or take the manage- ment of their own gardens.' Mr. Bridgeman is a gardener himself, in the Bowery road, and his directions are therefore applicable to our climate — an advantage of no little moment." — American. "Among the plants for the cultivation of which ' The Young Gardener's Assistant ' contains directions, are a number of culinary vegetables not generally introduced in the United States. The introduction and success- ful cultivation of useful foreign vegetables add to the resources of our country. We recently saw, for instance, in Mr. Bridgeman's garden, seve- ral varieties of Broad Beans, Vicia faba, in a most vigorous and thrifty giowtJi. They occupied a clayey spot of ground that was not suitable so early in the season for any other vegetable. They put forth a beautiful blossom, and would serve as an ornament for the flower garden." — A'ew YorK Farmer, 172 COMMENDATORY NOTICES. "Bridoeman*s Gardener's Assistant. — The fourth edition of this useful little manual is published, and is rendered of increased value by the addition of several matters not contained in either of the fornaer editions. Among these is a short and convenient calendar to assist the gardener's memory." — Evening Post. " No work on the subject of Kitchen Gardening ever published in this country has met with so very general approbation and extensive sale. Mr. Bridgeman is well known as one of our best gardeners, and writes from his own experience." — Daily Express. " That work which teaches us how to create and to improve this most innocent and useful source of pleasure, is surely worthy of applause and patronage ; and such we consider 'The Young Gardener's Assistant.' " — Morning Herald. " The work is calculated to be of immense service to those engaged in Agriculture, ' far from the busy haunts of men,' and to the disciples of Flora, in the city. Mr. Bridgeman is a practical gardener and seedsman, and has lived many years on both sides of the Atlantic." — Old Count ryniutu_ "From what we gather from the tenor of Mr. Bridgeman's book, we should suppose that he paid but little attention to the mere on difs or dic- iums of any, but that he pursued that course which his judgment pointed out ; and in this particular, we value his book — leading the young gardener to depend more on his own judgment than on the rules of custom." American Farmer. "All those who are desirous of a work on the subject of Gardening, and one which will convey the best information on the management of Hot- beds, Asparagus beds, best mode of raising all sorts of Esculent Vegetables, Pruning, Grafting and Budding Fruit Trees, Training the Vine, Preserving the Fruit from Mildew, &c., should procure this. No work on the subject ever published in tliis country has met with half as extensive a sale, or decided public approbation, as this valuable compendium. Mr. Bridgeman fully understands the subject on which he treats. The very rapid saleof the eight former editions is quite a suflicient recommendation." — Gf. C, Tfiorburn, in the Evening Star. " We can assure gardeners and farmers that they will in times and ways almost without number, be amply compensated by purchasing the book. Mr. Bridgeman bestows great labour on his productions of the pen, not only as to practical matter of fact, but to the various excellences of style particularly to clearness, and the avoiding a redundancy of words. The amount of useful information in the book constitutes its value; and all this information is adapted to this country, and its climate and its soil." — American Gardener^a Maguzirte. " From the cursory examination we have been enabled to give ' The Young Gardener's Assistant ' we should judge that it embraces a greater amount of practical information, applicable to our climate, than can be found in any similar work. The list of fruit trees has been selected from the best authorities, both foreign and American, and is sutTieiently exten« Bive for any cultivator in this country." — Newark Daily Advertiser, COMMENDATORY NOTICES. 173 "The author is an experienced practical gardener and seedsman, and his book is an cxceilent maiiual and fjuide for the beginner, whether old or young, in horticultural pursuits." — Guzetie. " From the systematic arrangement of the parts, under appropriate heads, and the plain and practical natureof the instructions, it must be an invalua- ble manual for those who may wish to superintend the management of their own gar Aens.-~ Albany Argus. Extract of a letter from Alex'r Walsh, Esq., Lansinburg: Dear Sir : — You will see by the next month's New-York Farmer, if you have not already seen by the Albany papers, that several copies of the Young Gardener's Assistant have been given as premiums, by the State Agricultural Society. Mr. D. B. Slingerland and myself were on the com- mittee for awarding premiums, and thought your work was deserving encouragement ; and that even in this small way we might be of service in bringing it before tlie public as worthy of being given as premiums." * "Written with a good deal of practical knowledge of tlie su!)ject on which it treats. The directions given, the author says, are the result of twenty years' experience, and we dare to say, that though submitted in an unpretending form, they will be found as useful, if not more so, than those in more costly and expensive works." — Courier ^ Enquirer. "We have undoubted authority for pronouncing this work as worth all others of a simiiar character that have ever been published in this country, from its adaptation to all the climates in the United Stales." — N- Y. Sun. " That this is a useful work is evident from the number of editions through which it has passed. There is scarcely any employment in life more pleasing than the cultivation of a Garden with Fruits and Flowers. Those who have the opportunity to indulge themselves in this gratification, we have no doubt will derive much assistance from this publication." — N. Y. Tribune. " Every one that cultivates a garden should possess the work, as it is a complete dictionary for young beginners in the delightful field of Horticul- ture." — Working Man's Advocate- "No work on the subject ever published in this country has met with half as extensive a sale or decided approbation, a« this valuable compen- dium. Mr. Bridgeman fully understands, from pradical experience, the subject on which he treats. The Calendarial Index arranges the work for every month, and refers to the various parts of the book how to proceed. This of itself is worth the price of the whole work, and cost the author immense labour. The rapid sale of th.c former editions, together with the commendation of every Agricultural and Horticultural Journal in America, and several in England, is quite sufficient recommendation. The present edition both explains and fully makes known what was thought to be a great discovery (as great as steam) on the preservation of Fruit Trees, Plants, &c., and which, to make known to the people of these United States, an application was made to the 25th Congress to vote the supposed * The American Ins'ifute Ims also awarded several copies c™his work as premiums fo| superior specimens of gardun products. 174 COMMENDATORY NOTICES. author of the discovery a sum equal to five cents from each individual in the United States — or about a million of dollars. Mr. Bridceman has clearly proved this discovery from his long observation of the course of nature and treatment of Trees and Plants, and wliich only occupies some four or five pages of the work." — N- Y. Commercial, by G. C. Tliorburn. •'The Florist's Guide. — A delightful little book, wfhich we advise every body to purchase — at least every body that has the least liking for the pleasing occupation on which it treats." — Courier 4" Enquirer. "The Florist's Guide," like its companion, " The Young Gardener's As- sistant," is a useful work, which every Gardener and Florist may consult to advantage. It gives minute directions concerning plants of various spe- cies; the names and characters of each being alphabetically arranged, makes it an invaluable manual for those who may wish to superintend the management of their own gardens." — Newai-k Daily Advertiser. " This is one of the best works on the subject ever published in any country : it contains Practical Directions for the Cultivation of Annual, Biennial, and Perennial Flowering Plants, of dii^Fcrent classes. Herbaceous and Siirubby, Bulbous. Fibrous, and Tuberous-rooted, including the Double Dahlia, Greenhouse Plants in P^ooms, &c. &c. "A work of the above kind has been long wanted ; hitherto, it required an expenditure of some three or four dollars to get any kind of readable directions for small gardens, window gardening, plants in rooms, &c., which, when procured, were so full of botanical foppery, tliat plain, honest people, after wading through some three or four hundred paues, were as wise as to knowing how to set about their gardening, as when they com- menced their book. The present little work obviates all these difficulties. The author is well known as one of our practical gardeners, and it may be truly said he has rendered the ladies in particular (for whom the work was projected) an essential service ; the directions for tlie care of the Camellia Japonica, the Double Dahlia, the sowing and treatment of Annual Flower Seed, &c., are alone worth double the price of the book ; so is tlie Calendarial Index, which, by the untiring industry of Mr. Bridgeman, is made to include in some half dozen pages, more valuable information than is to be found in some ponderous octavos on the same subject." — G. C» Tliorburn, from the N. Y. Commercial. " The style is free, and the language appropriate ; the plan is judicious, and the contents embrace much well arranged practical information, unen- cumbered with disquisitions foreign to the object of the work. Wo very cheerfully recommend it to our readers as a cheap and useful book." — Gardener's Magazine. The Florist's Guide has also been very favourably noticed by the editors of many other very respectable periodicals, as a work eminently calculated to promote a love for the cultivation and correct manai^ement of dowers — the study of which, remarks one of these writers, " refines the taste, and imparts just and ennobling views of the wise provisions of nature." 175 LINES SUGGESTED BY THE AWARD OP A GOLD MEDAL TO THE AUTHOR OF ' THE YOUNG GARDENER's ASSISTANT,' AT THE FOURTEENTH ANNUAL FAIR OF THE AMERICAN INSTITUTE, 1841, FOR ITS GREAT PRACTICAL UTILITY. BY D. MITCHELL. As Valor's meed, and Honor's brightest test, I've seen a Medal on a Warrior's breast ; But to my mind it brought sad scenes to view — The sweeping carnage of red Waterloo — Thy orphan's tear — the widow's drooping head, For slaughter'd heroes on false glory's bed — The earth made desolate, its fruits despoil'd, By mad Ambition, fearless and unfoil'd ! Not so the Token thou hast gained from Peace, Thou lov'st to see fair Nature's wide increase, And the " Young Gard'ner," in thy fertile book. Finds an " Assistant " not to be mistook ! Thine is the pleasing art to cultivate, Fill Plenty's horn, and better man's estate ; Thine is the wish the Cotter's life to mend. And teach him that a garden is his friend : That Virtue smiles — sheds blessings on his head. And makes him happy in his humble shed, Who tends his " little patch " in well spent hours. Amid his kitchen treasures and his flowers ; That Vice ne'er mars a lovely scene like this — The consummation of the poor man's bliss ! Health, my firm friend, long life and health to thee. Health to the scions from the parent tree ; Well may thy trophy be a source of pride, May they preserve it, whatsoe'r betide : 'Tis a memento for imparting good, More nobly won than that for shedding blood ! The Young' Gardener's Assistant, containing Catalogues of Garden and Flower Seed, with Practical Directions under each head for the Cultivation of Culi- nary Vegetahles and Flowers; al^o, directions for culti- vating Fruit Trees, Shiubs, and Vines, including the Fig, the Cranberry, and the Grape Vine. To which is ; added a Calendar to each part, showing the work ne- cessary to be done in the various depaitments of Gar- dening each month of the year. The whole adapted to the climate of the United States. Tlie tenth edition, improved, 504 pages octavo. By T. BRIDGEMAN, Gardener, Seedsman, and Fhjrist : New- York. 85" As each part of the above Vv'ork makes a complete volume, the Ninth Edition has been published in three separate books, with a view to accommodate the different description of cultivators. They are entitled as fallows : — The Kitchen Gardener's Instructor ; which contains ample directions for the cultivation of Culinary Vegetables and Herbs throughout the ordinary season ; and instructions for Forcing and Forwarding Vegetables in winter and early in the spring. The Florist's Guide, contains all the necessary inf(n-mati(m for managing a Flower Garden, and for cultivating Exotic Plants, either in a Gieenhouse, or warm loom. The Fruit Cultivator's Manual, is designed to qualify the novice in Fiuit Culture for the superintend- ence of his own Orchard and Fruit Garden. Each of the above Volumes contains 176 pages, 12mo. Price Fifty Cents, half bound ; Sixty-two Cents, full bound. B^^ Booksellers and Seedsmen supplied on liberal terms, by the Author, Broadway, corner of Eighteenth Street, New- York. i 9'S'VSiji-i'^$^9'S'fii^J'iS?'S^^^*^ AMERICAN STA1\!DA m^,^:^ ^^ ^^^GRESS ooomssi7fls The Youn^ Gardener's Assistant, containing, Catalogues of Garden and Flowei" Seed, with Practical Directions under each head for the Cultivation of Culi- nary Vegetables and Flowers; also, directions for culti- vating Fruit Ti'ees, Shrubs, and Vines, including the Fig, the Cranberry, and the Grape Vine. To which is added a Calendar to each part, showing the work ne- cessary toije done in the various departiricnts of Gar- dening each month of the year. The whole adapted to the climate of the United States. The tenth edition, improved, 504 pages octavo. By T. BRIDGEMAN, Gardener, Seedsman, and Florist : New- York. 55" As each part of the above Work makes a complete volume, the Ninth Edition has been published in three separate books, with a view to nccommodate the different description of cultivators. They arc entitled as follows : — The Kitchen Gardener's Instructor ; which contains ample directions for the cultivation of Culinary Vegetables iuid lierbs thro'jqhout the or^'nuy season; and instructions for Forcing and Forwarding VegetaJ:)les in winter and early in the spring.. The Florist's Guide, contains all the necessary information K)r managing a Flower Garden, and for cultivating Exotic Plants, either in a Gieenhouse, or warm x'oom. The Fruit Cultivator's Manual, is designed to " qualify the novi-^-e i.i Fruit Culture for the superintend- ence of his own Orchaid and Fruit Garden. Each gCij^S^ above Volumes contains 176 pages, 12mo. Cents, half bound ; Sixty-two Cents, full bound. Price Fifty 1^^ Booksellers and Seedsmen supplied on liberal terms, by the Author, Broadway, corner of Eighteenth Street, New-York. ti(i,f-i.^ii