Class _XT &05 Book .C^-?) GopghtN?. COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 6^W^<£ n ?lc^ ^ .c7. ~^U^r^ > : ■■ ' .SOI CURI I P.. en A THE SUPREME SYSTEM OF C/ T n.r T N AND TROUSERS BY FRED'K T. CROONBORG PU BLISHED BY FRED'K T. CROONBORG Chicago, Illinois. THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS, Two Copies deceived AUG 10 1903 Entry Copyngnt CLASS 4- -><[o£> XXc.No. L, L o «• L COPY B. CONTENTS. Photograph of Author Contents ..... Preface ..... Preliminary Remarks and Laws of Proportion How to take Measures Theorizing .... Theory . Proportionate Trousers Peg Top Trousers Spring Bottom Trousers Full Dress Trousers Trousers for Corpulent Subject Trousers without outside seam VARIATIONS. — Open and Close Trous- ers, — Bow-Legged and Knock Kneed Trousers with Long and Short Front- Large and Flat Seat . PAGE 2 4 5 6 7 s 9 IO, 1 1 12, 13 14. 15 16, 17 iS, 91 20, 21 22, 23 24, 25 26, 27 Combination Large Hip Seat and Bow- Legged . . . . . 8, g Combination Small Hip, Flat Seat and Knock Kneed Bicycle Trousers .... Knickers with Cuff attached Riding Breeches .... Leggins and Overgaiters . Broad Falls and Split Falls Trousers Grade .... Appendix ..... Proportionate Inseam Table Pattern Price List .... The Fashionable Cutter and Tailor's Gazette The Fred'k T. Crooonborg School of Garment- Cutting .... 46 30, 4i 32, 33 34- 35 36, 37 38 39 40, 41 42 43 44 45 PREFACE. While there havebeen trousers systems published before in book form, I believe the field sufficiently large and the requirements sufficiently plenty to encourage me in placing my own product before the trade. This idea has also received much encouragement from the many flattering testimonials received from the output of my first work. I do not claim extraordinary results to accrue from the use of the Supreme Trousers System, but I do claim that it embodies an easy and simple principle, and will produce a comfortable and good fitting pair of trousers. In actual practice I have discovered that perfect fitting trousers cannot be obtained by cutting from a system alone, for the reason that there are many problems in attitude that cannot be measured and can only be ascertained by mental and optical judgement These variations I have attempted to clearly depicit in as simple a manner as possible, and I con- scientiously believe that if the student will carefully peruse the ideas advocated in this volume and place them in daily practice they cannot fail to win the title of a successful trousers cutter. Tin-: Author. PRELIMINARY REMARKS AND LAWS OF PROPORTION. In selecting a model for practice let us choose a proportionate with the exception of those who require variations from the regular formula. In drafting use only the regular square with the usual divisions of halves, fourths, eighths, thirds, sixths and twelfths on the same. A proportionate subject is supposed to measure five inches less over the waist than over the seat. The thigh measure is obtained by £ and ft of the seat measure; in measuring it should be taken snug. The length is governed by the height, the knee and bottom by style. The following measures are therefore adopted : Outside, 42 inches Inside, 32 " ," being 5 inches more than waist. Waist 32 Seat 37 Thigh 21$ Knee 18 Bottom 16 With five inches accepted as the normal difference between the waist and seat, and h and 1/12 of the seat measure extra for the circumference of thigh, it must be understood that any increase or de- crease from the same will indicate that the subject is disproportionate and should be divided equally at the front and sides. Experience has demonstrated that there should be a certain proportionate advance at waist, there- fore, when your measures registers five inches less at waist than over the seat the front of waist should be \ inch beyond the front from where the seat measure is applied. K is front of waist. F is part of front where seat measure is applied. (See diagram of proportionate trousers.) This rule holds good for proportionate trousers, and only when the waist measure increases or de- creases beyond the normal, or when the attitude of the figure requires it should there be any increase or decrease from this \ inch. In squaring up from point H as indicated on the normal draft, and by applying the waist measure, as per instruction, the front of waist will adjust itself and will be found \ inch beyond point F. The balance line from H to T determines the balance of the trousers from the hip down to the bottom, and is located by \ of the seat measure on the divisions from B to I for a proportionate subject; but is subject to variation for large and fmall hips or as generally teimtd open and close trousers, also for 1 K iw-legged and kin >ek-kneed , for which full directions will be found further on under the head of "OPEN AND CLOSE, BOW-LEGGED AND KNOCK-KNEED." The dress added to the front part as indicated from F to S should be 1/24 of the seat measure on the divisions. Particular care should be exercised in curving the fork. Point T on the proportionate draft is \ seat measure from F on the normal, but is subject to variation for large and small seat. Point W i>n the back part is found by 1/12 seat measure plus A inch for two seams from S on the 1 1 < .m j iart . This p< lint is also subject to variation in connection with large or small seat for which full directions will be given further on in diagram headed "LARGE AND SMALL SEAT". All allowances for seams and make-up is extended on the back part. The front part is produced by direct measure. For proportionate inseam, dress, measure and height, see table of proportions especially arranged for this purpose. HOW TO TAKE MEASURE. Measuring means the application of the measuring tape on the different parts of the body and to fix and ascertain that one part or station is so many inches from another. If the space differs either to one side or another from the given quantities, the surface on which the measures were applied is either larger i >r smaller than the normal size. This is the theory of measuring and should be so understood . first take the measure of the outside length. Place the end of the tape at the height of waist or just above the hip-bone on which the trousers are intended to rest, measuring down to the heel. Next take the measure for the in-seam. Be sure to get your tape well up in the crotch, measur- ing down to the heel. The waist measure should be taken medium snug. The seat measure should also be taken medium snug. Knee and bottom measures should be taken in accordance with the prevailing style. After the measures are taken be sure to note all the pecularities, such as, bow-legs, knock- knees, large seat, flat seat, right dress or left dress. Ask your customerto placehisfeet close together so that Iris heels touch; in this position if he is bow-legged he cannot close the legs at the knee. Place your hand between the knees and ascertain in what degree he may be bow-legged. Be sure to note all other irregularities in shape as it will greatly assist you in drafting a good fitting pattern. DEGREES OF VARIATION. In daily practice one comes in contact with many figures thai vary in attitude from the normal form, seme greater and some less than others but all varying from the normal position to some extent. The degree of variation must be determined by a careful survey of the figure by the eye. Variations can be all classed in three degrees, namely: first, second and third. For long and short front and large and flat seat the first degree means an inclination of i inch, the second degree means an inclination of 1 inch and the third or extreme inclination would be f inch. For open and close, bow-legged and km ck-kneed the first degree means an inclination of \ inch, the second degree an inclination of 1 inch, and the third or extreme inclination of 1-1^ inches, In placing the measurements in the measure-book always state the degree of disproportion oi your client. THEORIZING. While we want to study the practical way of cutting trousers it is necessary to study the system- atical method as well. Proportions of the human form are the main factors and should be studied first of all. For this reason I have drawn up the accompaning diagrams and by studying the samethe student will be more able to grasp the ideas. The large circle represents the circumference of the seat and is obtained by \ of the seat measure using point F as pivot, Rule a line from K. to R through F. Draw a horizontal line through F, there by finding point C. Square up and down from C. Square back and forth from K. I to R. is the inside length desired. Square back and forth from R. F to G is h of the seat measure' being the proper distance for the fork of the front part. Make a circle from G, using point F as your pivot. G to S is 2 '., of the seat measure, which is the extension allowed for the dress. .Make a circle around from S, using point F as a pivot. Divide the distance between G and C finding point II. Square up from II. Rto I is I of the width desired at the bottom. Rule a line from H to I. D is half way between R and F. D to is 2 inches. This is the knee. The circle at M represents the circumference of knee. Make a circle from R using point I as the pivot. This circle represents the circumference of bottom. Ride a line from C to P. K to L is | of the waist measure. Shape from L to C. F to T is ':-; of the seat measure. Shape from T to G and T to S. These are all points and divisi< ns used tor a proportionate front part. THEORIZING. i THEORY. Continued. In this diagram as in the former, the large represents the circumference of the seat. The front parts are obtained in the same manner as explained in 1 he former diagram. Now let us proceed with the back parts. Rule a line from T to C and square up from T by that line. S to II is -,', of the seat measure plus \ inch. Make a circle from 11 using point F as the pivot. This will give you the proper stride on the back part. The distance from N to V, and to U are \ inch each, and represent two seams. Allow two seams on each side of the back part at the bottom. Sweep from L to X using point T as the pivot. This will give you the height at the back as X indicates. Sweep from L t«> Y using point N as the pivot, X to 2 is \ of the waist measure plus 1 inch. X to Y is J your scat measure plus 1 inch. The difference between the waist and seat, as '_' to Y indicates are taken out in the V on the back part. (' to Z is IV inches allowed for ease over the seat. Shape up the back part from Y to X, X to T, T to 11, II to U and down to the bottom. Shape from Y to Z, Z to V and down to the bottom. It will be i barb seen that all seams are provided for in the back part. These are proportions and should be so understood and changes from the same should only be made lor disproportionate subjects for which you will find full directions farther on. 10 THEORY. Continued. n PROPORTIONATE TROUSERS. Measurements used are as follows : ( lutside length 12 inches. [nside length 32 Waist 32 Seat 37 Knee 18 Bottom 16 Front Part. To Draft. Square out and down from A. A to Bis the outside length or 42 inches. 1! to C is the inside length or 32 inches. D is half way between B and C. D to E is 2 inches. Square out C, E and B. C to F is -V of the scat measure. F to G is 1/1 2 < if the seat measure. G to S is 1 24 of the seat measure'. B to I is t cf the seat measure. H is half way be1 ween C and G. Square up from 1 1. Rule a line from H to I. | to K is \ of the waist measure. j to L is \ of the waist, measure. 1 to R is on the fourths of the bottom measure. 1 to P is i ai the f< iurths of the 1 >< >tt< >m measure. M to D is on the fourths of the knee measure. M to N is on the fourths of the knee measure. Draw a line from to R. Draw a line from N to P. Shape as indicated from I. to (' and down to X. 1 )raw a line from F to K. F to T is I of the seat measure. Shape as indicated from K to S, extending ] inch at T. Shape as indicated In >m S to < I. Shape as indicated by dotted line from k to G, reducing \ inch at T. Shape from G to 0. I to f the bottom measure plus \ inch . Rule a line from V to Z, V to 4 and U to 3. Shape as indicated from Y to Z,V and down to 4. Shape from W to U and down to 3. Shape from 4 to 3. Shape from X to T and down to W. The V taken out at A is the same as the dis- tance between 2 and Y minus 2 seams. Shape back part from Y to A and ] to X". Finish as represented. When thigh measure is used in this connection 1 apply one half of the same from C to G on the front part. r 12 PROPORTIONATE TROUSERS. w snrt tr ¥ ckcts. There is no material difference between the dress trousers and the iii irmal. 18 FULL DRESS TROUSERS 19 TROUSERS FOR CORPULENT SUBJECT. The following measurements arc used: ( lutside 43 inches. Inside 31^ Waist 45" " Abdomen 47 Seat 44 " Thigh 264 " Knee 20 " Bottom 1 7 To Draft. A In B is the outside length. B to C is the inside length. D is half way between B and C. D to E is 2 inches. Square 1 >ut < ', E and B. C to F is i seat measure on the divisions F to G is i'j seal measure. G to S is 1/2 I seat measure. B to I is % seat measure. H is half way between C and G. Square up from H. Rule a line from H to I. J to 8 is \ waist measure. J to L is \ waist measure. Square up from P. Rule a line from F to 8. 8 to 7 is the same distance as from 8 to K. I to R is \ of the bottom measure. I to P is \ of the bottom measure. M to O is ', of the knee measure. M to X is \ of the knee measure. Test your thigh measure between C and m P to 9 and R. This completes the front part. Place your front part on another paper and commence drafting the BACK PART. Square across at knee and bottom. Sweep from S to W by using point <> as the pivot. Sweep from L to Y using point X as the pivot. Place corner of square at T, let long arm of the same rest on C and square up from T, finding point X. Sweep up from L to X using pi int T as the pivot. S to W is fa of the seat measure plus \ inch. X to U is \ of the knee measure plus \ inch. O to V is \ of the knee measure plus § inch. P to 3 is 1 of the bottom measure plus \ inch. R to 1 is ! of the bottom measure plus \ inch. Apply seat measure plus If inches from F to C and T to Z. X to Y is \ waist plus 1 inch. Test the seat measure between X and Y in this connection same as in the proportionate trousers, and if there is any difference between the scat and waist take ou1 a V at A; but if there is no dif- ference a V should no1 be taken out. Apply the measure over the abdomen aboul r>\ inches below the waist-line as the square across line indicates on the front part, and apply in the same manner to the back part, and add one inch for seams. Shape I'ri >m Y to Z, V and down to 4. Shape from Wto U, and down to 3. Shape In un 1 t< 1 •'!. Shape fp mi X tn T and W. Shape from Y to X and finish as represented. •>0 TROUSERS FOR CORPULENT SUBJECT. i^iidfc^ik— Jb 21 TROUSERS WITHOUT OUTSIDE SEAM. Measurements used : < lutside 4:2 inches. Inside .'!'_' Waist 32 " Scat 37 Knee \s\ " Bottom 16 To Draft. Square out and down from A. A to B is the outside length. B to (' is the inside length. D is half way between B and ('. I ) to E is '_' inches. Square out (\ E and B. ('to P is on the halves of the seat measure. F to (1 is /o of tile seat, measure. I! to I is 1 of the bottom measure. 11 is half way between C and f the waist measure, on the divisions plus 1 inch. X to Y is \ of the seat measure, on the divisiens plus 1 inch. Take out a V at 6, amounting to the distance between 2 and V, minus two seams. Shape from Y to Z, Y to 6, <> to X, X to 10 and 10 to W. Shape bottom as indicated and finish as represented. 22 TROUSERS WITHOUT OUTSIDE SEAM. X 6 23 VARIATIONS. OPEN AND CLOSE TROUSERS. The solid line indicates the normal front part and is drawn in the same manner as the regulations heretofore explained. Should your subject have a small or large hip it would indicate that you will either have to give him an open or close pair of trousers. The large hip subject requires close trousers and is obtained by moving the balance line about 1 inch from 1 to 3 . Draw a line from II to .'! and let the inside and outside seam follow the balance line; this will give you a close pair of trousers or those for a person that has a large hip. Should your subject have a small hip and stand with his legs apart place your balance line back 1 inch as I to 2 indicates. Draw a line from II to 2 and let outside and inside scam follow the balance line; this will produce an open pair of trousers or a pair that i uitable f< >r < >ne win > has a small hip. BOW-LEGGED AND KNOCK-KNEED The solid line represents the normal trout part. Should the subject be bow-legged advance 1 inch from I to U. Rule a line from M to U. Accept this as your balance line and meas- ure up from U on front part at bottom. For knock-kneed come back I inch from I to V. Rule a line from M to V. V would be your balance line for the knock-kneed. Measure up the front part at the bottom from V and you have a kni ck-kneed pair of trousers. 24 OPEN AND CLOSE BOW-LEGGED AND KNOCK-KNEED. 25 TROUSERS WITH LONG AND SHORT FRONT. To Draft. LONG FRONT. The proportionate front part is obtained in the usual manner F toT is I of the scat measure. Square back from T finding point Q. For the long front trousers in the third degree come back from 8 to 7 f inch. Rule a line from Q to 7. Square out by same line from Q finding point U and I. Square up from U. finding point Z. Square back and forth from Z. Z to X and from Z to 4 are each ) of the waist measure. Rule a line from 1 to X. Shape from X to 1 and down to S. Shape from 4 to Q and you will have the long front to the trousers, which is generally found in connection with a flat seat. SHORT FRONT. The short front which usually gi es in connection with a large scat is obtained in just the opposite manner. A to 5 is 1 inch. Rule a line from "> to O. Square out from Q by same line and find points V and 8. Square up from V finding point Y. Square back and forth from Y. Y to W and Y to 2 are each { of the waist measure. 1 >raw a line from S to W and shape from 2 to Q. Shape fork as indicated and finish as represented. LARGE SEAT AND FLAT SEAT. LARGE SEAT. Raise y< iut pi tint from T to 8 j inch . Place the corner of the square at S and let Ion- arm of the same rest on C. Rule a line from 8 to C and square up finding point 1. Sweep up from L, using point 8 as the pivot. W is the normal point in the fork. Advance i the distance between T and 8 from W to 11. Shape from 7 to s and from 8 to 11. Apply the waist measure in the regular way from 7 to .">. Shape from 5 to Z and down to Y as indicated. This will produce trousers for a subject with a large seat. FLAT SEAT. Xow. let us sav that we have a subject with a Hat seat in the 3rd degree and proceed just the opposite way. T to '.) is § inch. I 'lace the comer of square at 9, let long arm of the same rest on C. Rule a line from !) to C and square up from finding point 7. Sweep up from L using point «) as your pivot finding point 1. W to 10 is \ the distance between T and 9. Apply the waist measure in the regular manner from 1 to 2 Shape fr< mi 1 ti » !». '.» t< > 10 and 10 to 11 . Shape from 2 to Z and down to V as indicated. Tins will produce trousers for a person with a flat seat. 86 LONG AND SHORT FRONT LARGE AND FLAT SEAT. ill 27 COMBINATION. LARGE HIP AND SEAT AND BOW-LEGGED. Measurements used: Seat 43 inches Outside 43 inches. Thigh 25 Inside 31 Knee 20 Waist 42 " Bottom 16$ " Attitude. — Large seat in the third degree, large hip and bowdegged. To Draft. Square out and down from A. A to B is the outside length. B to C is the inside length. D is half-way between I! and C. D to E is 2 inches. Square out C, E and B. C to F is nil the halves of the seat measure. C to (i is \ of the thigh measure. ( ! to S is 1/24 of the seat measure. H is half-way between C and < i. Square up from H. B to I is ', of the seat measure. I to 4 is 1 inch which is advanced for the large hip. Rule a line from 4 to H. 4 to 3 is 1 inch for the Bow-legged. Rule a line from 3 to M. Square back and forth from M. Si [uare back from .'! to P. ;! tn l\ and .'! to P are each \ of the bottom measure. M to and M to N are each ', of the knee measure. J to 8 and J to bare each \ of the waist measure. Square up from F. Rule a line from P to 8. K to 8 is the same distance as from K out to dotted line in front. F to T is -!; of the seat measure. Shape the front part from L to 8, 8 to T and S, allowing \ inch at T. Shape from S to () and l\ and shape L to C C to N and N to P. Shape from 8 to T and G, reducing \ inch at T and shape from (i down to ( ). Cut the front part out, place on another paper and commence to draw the back part by squar- ing across at knee and bottom. Sweep from S to W, using point (J as the pivot. Sweep from L to Y using point N as the pivot. T to 10 is I inch allowed for the large seat Sweep up from L using point 10 as the pivot. Place corner of square at 10, let long arm of the same rest on C and square up, finding point X Apply seat measure and add to same If inches, from F to C and 10 to Z. X to 2 is i of the waist measure plus 1 inch,* [ X to Y is $ seat measure plus 1 inch. Take out a V as 6 and Q indicates, amounting to the distance from 2 to Y minus two seams. N to U is \ of the knee measure plus \ inch. to Vis '. knee measure plus \ inch. P to 5 is ', of the bottom measure plus \ inch. I\ to 4 is ', of the bottom measure plus \ inch. S to W is 1/ 12 of the seat measure plus \ inch and also i the distance between T and 10. Shape the back part from Y to li, () to X, X to 10, and down to W. Shape from \V to U and 5, from Y to Z, V and 4, and 4 to 5 and finish as represented. LARGE HIP and SEAT and BOW-LEGS. 29 COMBINATION. SMALL HIP, FLAT SEAT AND KNOCK-KNEED. The following are the measurements used: < )utside 1 1 \ inches. Inside 32 Waist .",1 Seat 36 Thigh 12 1 J " Knee Is Bottom 16 Flat scat third degree, small hip and knock- kneed . To Draft. A to B is thu outside length. B to C is the inside length. D is ^ way between B and C. D to E is 2 inches. Square out C, E and B. C to F is on the halves of the scat measure. C to G is on the halves of the thigh measure. < I to S is 1/24 of the seat measure. H is half-way between C and G. B to I is J of the seat measure. I to 5 is 1 inch for the small hip. Rule a line from 5 to 1 f. 5 to 4 is 1 inch for the knock-kneed. Rule a line from 4 to M. Square back and forth from M. Square back from 1. Square up from 11. Square back and forth from }. J to S and J t<> L are each 1 of the waist meas- ure. M to and M to N are each \ of the knee meas- ure. J to R and 4 to P are each \ of the bottom meas- ure. F to T is ^ of the seat measure. Shape from L to 8, from L to C, and N and P' Shape from 8 to T and S advancing \ inch at T. Shape from S to T and G, reducing \ inch at T. Shape from S to G and R. Shape from G to 0. Shape bottom from P to R. Back Part. Square across at knee and bottom. T to ]() is \ inch for the flat seat . Place the corner of the square at 10 and let long arm of the same rest on C. Rule a line from T to C and square up from 10 to X. Sweep up from L to X, using point 10 as the pivot. Sweep back from L to Y, using point N as the pivot. Sweep forth from S to W, using point G as the pivot. Apply seat measure plus If inches from F to C and 10 to Z. X to 2 is \ of the waist measure plus \ inch. X to Y is \ of the seat measure plus \ inch. The V taken out at Q and 6, is the same amount as from 2 to Y minus two seams. N to U is \ of the knee measure plus \ inch. O to V is \ of the knee measure plus \ inch. P to 3 is \ of the bottom measure plus \ inch. R to 6 is I of the bottom measure plus \ inch- S to W is 1/12 of the seat measure plus \ inch, minus \ the distance between T and 10. Take out a V at Q and 6. Shape from Y to Q, 6 to X, X to T, ami T to W. Shape from W to U and down to 3. Shape from Y to Z, V and 6 and from 6 to 3. Finish as represented. 30 SMALL HIP, FLAT SEAT AND KNOCK-KNEED. hi BICYCLE TROUSERS. In order to find the inside length correctly we will take the full length of the in-seam of an ordi- nary pair of trousers. One-half the inside length plus 2\ inches will be a good average leg when Cuff is added. The following are the measurements used : Inside 32 inches. .Seat 37 inches Rise III " Knee L8 " Waist 32 Below the knee 11 Front Part. To Draft. Square out and down from A. A to C is rise or 10 inches. (' tn N is l(i inches or \ the length of the leg. X to B is 2\ inches. .Square out C, X and B, C to F is on the halves of the seat measure. F to < '■ is 1/12 of the seat measure,. (1 tn S is 1/24 of the seat measure. H is halt-way between G and C. Square up and down from H. J to K and J to L are each \ of the waist measure. The front part at the bottom is 1 of the meas- ure beli >w the knee equally divided on each side i if I Shape the front part from L to Z down to the botti mi, extending \ inch at C. Shape from K to T and down to S and add \- inch at T. Shape from K to T and down to G and re- duce |- inch at T Shape from S down to bottom and G down to bottom. Cut your fore-part out and place on another paper. Back Part. Square across at knee and below the knee. Sweep up fmrn L, using point T as the pivot. Sweep back from L, using point X as the pivot. S tn Wis 1 \'2 of the seat measure plus \ inch. Place corner of square at T. let long arm of the same rest on C and rule a line fr< >m TtoC, Square up in mi T to X. M to V and M and U are each \ inch. I to .") and I tu 6 are each \ inch. Points 5 to 6 are \ inch above point I. 5 to R and (J to V are \ of the measure below the knee plus \ inch each. V to N and U to O are \ of the measure below the knee plus '} inch each. Apply the seat measure plus If inches from F to C and T to Z. X to 2 is \ waist measure plus 1 inch. X to V is \ of the seat measure plus 1 inch. The V taken out at J is the same amount as the distance between 2 and Yminus two seams. Shape your back part from Y to Z and X to B. Shape from Y to 4 and 1 to X, and from X to T, down to W, from W to R, B to 6 and 5 to R. M to Pis 21 inches. Shape from P to U and 5 and from P to V and 6. There is an opening fn >m B to N which should be closed with two buttons or fasteners. The back part is reinforced in the seat as the dotted line indicates. The cuff is ;>', inches wide and closed with 3 buttons and holes. Cuff. Draw line I! to E. Square down from B. B to C is the width of the front part. Square down from C. B to D is M ' inches. Square out from D. B to E is 14 inches or the same as the measure beL >w the knee. Square down from E. Extend a button-stand of 1 inch at E and F and shape as indicated from B to G and G to E. Shape as indicated from D to 11 and 11 to F, and finish as represented. 32 BICYCLE TROUSERS. 33 L.ofC. KNICKERS WITH CUFFS ATTACHED. These knickers are drafted best from the regular measure of trousers with an a snug measure taken an uiiiil the knee. The following are the measurements used: ( hitside 4 I I inches. Inside 32 Waist 32 " Seat 37 " Knee 13 Bottom of cuff i:U " To Draft. Square out and down from A. A to C is <)k inches, being the distance between the outside and inside seam lengths. CtoDis I the actual length of the leg. D to E is 2\ inches. E to B is 3^ inches for cuff. Square out from C, D, E and B. Cto F is '.. of the seat measure. F to (', is 1 12 <>f the seat measure. G t<> S is I 24 of the seat measure. H is half-way between G and ('. Square up and down from H. J to K is { i if the waist measure. Rule, a line from F to EC K to P is \ inch. Rule a line from P to J and out to L. J to I, is J of tlie waist measure. I to R is 1 1 inches. Square down from R. M to X is | of the knee measure. C to 9 is \ inch. Shape from L to 9 and R and down to the bottom. R to ( > is \ i if tin knee measure, L3 on the thirds. Square down from (J. M to ( ) is ' ; of the knee measure. F to T is \ ; of the seal measure. Shape from P to T and S, allowing | inch at T. Shape from P to 'I' and (1. reducing ', inch at T. Shape from S to anil down to the bottom, Shape from ( '■ to ( ). Place your front part, on another paper and commence drafting. Back Pari. Square up from J. Sweep back from L, using point X as the pivot. Square out from S. | t<> X is ,', ol tlie seat measure. Rule a line from T to X. '.! to Z is 1 V inches. I to 4, ami I to 5 are each \ inch more than \ of the knee measure. M to J and M to V, is \ inch more than \ of the knee measure. Apply bottom measure of cull across the front part and from 7 to X on back part and add to same 1 inch. X to 2 is the waist measure plus 1 inch. X to Y is tlie seat, measure plus 1 inch. Take out a V as indicated by 1 and 6, amount- ing to the distance between 2 and Y minus two seams. Shape back part from Y to Z, V, 5 mid S. Shape from Y to (i, 1 to X, X to 4' and 4' to \\'. Shape from W to U, 4 and 7. Shape from 8 to 7. The cuff closes with 4 buttons and holes. A button stand is allowed on the back part as indicated bv dotted line from ."i to N. ;;i BICYCLE TROUSERS 35 RIDING BREECHES. The draft is produced from the following mea- surements: Rise !> \ inches Knee 1 7 incl i Inseam 32 Small knee 13 I Waist 32 " Call I I " Seat :!7 " Ankle 10 To Draft. Square out and down from A. A to C is the rise or !)■'. inches. C to E is 2 inches less than ' of the inseam measure or 1-1 inches. C to B is 2 1 inches less than the inseam mea- sure. E to I) is ."> inches. () is half way between B and D. Square out (', E, D, O and B. C to F is on the halves of the seat measure. F to ('■ is 1 12 of the seat measure. (i to S is 1 24 of the seat measure. II is half way between G and C. Square up from H. R to 1 is I of the seat measure. Rule a line from Ii to I. | to K is | of the waist measure. K to Q is \ inch. Rule a line from to J and out. j to L is ] of the waist measure. Rule a line from F to K. I" to T is I of the seat measure. 17 to 22 is the knee measure. Mtol2andMto 13 are each I -of the small knee measure. 28 to II and 28 to II are each ', of the calf measure. I to 5 and 1 to 6 are each ', of the ankle meas- ure. M to 24 is 1 J inches. 28 to 10 is 1 inch. I to !i is I inch. 17 to 20 is I of the knee measure. Shape from L to C, extending ] inch at C, 20, 2 1, 10 and 8. In order to have the outside run well toward,-, the front, the front part is thus reduced, and while I have given the average amount wish to say that the exact amount cut off from the fore part would vary a little, according to style ; what- ever is taken off the front part must be added to the back part. Shape from <> to T and S, extending ', inch at 4". Shape from (J to 4' and G reducing \ inch at T Shape from S to IS, 12, II and 5. Shape fn >m ( '■ to is. Extend the waist hand from L to K and the !i'( mt part is o impleted . Rack Part. Cut out the front part and place same on anoth- er paper. Square across at knee, small knee, call and ankle. Square up from J. Sweep from S to \V using point Is at the pivot. Sweep from L to Y using point 20 as the pivot. J to X is ,', of the seat measure. S to \V is fj of the scat measure plus h inch. Rule a line from T to X. Apply waist measure plus 1 inch from X to 2. Apply seat measure plus 1 inch from X to Y. Take out a V at 1 and 4 amounting to the distance Ret ween 2 and Y minus two seams. Apply seat measure plus 1 f inches from F to C and T to Z. 1 7 to P is 2 inches. M to U is I of an inch. M to V is jj of an inch. I to 7, and I to 8 are each ^ inch. Points 7 and S are \ inch above point I. Shape as indicated from R to 17, U to 28 and 7. Shape \r< im P to V, 28 and 8. is to 21 is ' inch. 12 t< is 1 inch. II to 17) is 1 inch. ■~i to R is 1 J inches. Apply knee measure plus I ', inch from IS to 20, 21 and 27. Apply small knee measure plus 1-1 inches from 12 to 24, 23 to U and Vto 25. Apply the calf measure plus lj inches from II to 10, 15 and 16. Apply ankle measure plus 1 \ inches from ."> to (i, R to 7 and 8 to X. Shape side of Rack part from Y to Z, 27. 25, 16 and X. Shape from Y to I, 1 to X, X to T and T toW. Shape from W to 21, 23, 15 and R. Shape from X to 8 and 7 to R. Extend waist band to the top of breeches. The inside reinforcement extends from crotch down to calf as shown in the diagram; shape reinforcement in a like manner and finish as re- presented. 3 a RIDING BREECHES. nl LEGGINGS. Measurements used are as follows: Length f. 15 inches Calf 13^ inches Kneejf 13 inches Ankle 11 inches To Draft. Utile a line from A. to R. A to R. is the length of the legging. A to B is 3 i inches. R to C is 1 f inches. Square back and forth from A, B, C and R. A to P is \ the knee measure plus \ inch. B to N is i. of the calf measure plus £ inch. C to K is I of the ankle measure plus J inch. Square down from K. Shape as indicated from from P to X and K. A to and R to L are each 2 -| inches. Rule a line from L to O; this is where you place the buttons. A to G and R to S are each 2 \ inches . Rule a line from G to S. L to U is 1 \ inches. Square up from U and make this the button- stani 1 . Shape as indicated from G to F and down to the bottom, extending one inch at S. Shape the button-stand as indicated by extend- ing one inch at U. Place buttons on the side as shown in this diagram and finish as represented. OVER-GAITERS. Over-gaiters arc sometimes cut as high as to the knee, but on an a verage 9 inches in height. We therefore give a diagram of the average, and by using the same meth< d for the long gaiter i t can so be produced : Measurements used : Length 9 inches. Ankle 11 inches. Leg V2\ Instep 16 Caff 13" " Bottom 23} " To Draft. Draw a straight line from A to U. Square across from A. A to U is tlie length of the gaiter. I' to C is -1 niches. K is half-way between U and C. C to B is 4 inches. Square across at B, C and U. Square back from R. C to E is \ ( >f the ankle measure. Square up line from E to F and G. G to Pis \ the measure around the leg plus \ in. F ti i N is \ thi' measure around the calf E to Kis \ the measure around the ankle " E to M is ' of the instep measure plus A inch/ Jl to S is I of the bottom measure plus h inch. Shape as shown in the diagram from G F, E ard S. S to V, and M, andfrcm PtoN.KandM. Buttons should be placed in the middle of the line, and in order to obtain this, add to both back and front | inch from line A U. Put on heel straps at U and finish as represented. 38 . - -~\ •--/ BROAD FALLS. Broad fall trousers are cut the same as a ny other trousers with the exception that the fall-bearer is an additii in. The first diagram shows the broad fall pants, the solid line showing the fall- bearer. Six button-holes are usual in the fall and as many buttons in the fall-bearer. The bearer is cut high enough to make up for the waistband. The opening in the side is § of the rise of the waist or about 7 or 8 inches. Pockets are put in the bearer as in- dicated. On the back part which the dotted line indicates, a waistband must be added. SPLIT FALLS. The lower diagram shows the older style i >r split fall. The width of the fall is I of the waist measure and the opening is finished with a strap 4 inch wide, the end turned in so as to make it point as shown in the diagram. In other respects they are made like the bn >ad falls. 39 TROUSERS GRADE. Air., trouser pattern can be graded, the only difference being, that if yi >u have a gi » >d model you will get a good set of patterns, but if you have a ] r model you will have a poor set of patterns. In choosing a model for this grade we will se- lect a pattern that is produced from .'32 inseam, 37 seat, 32 waist, with normal width at knee and bottom. In naming my sizes I would use the seat measure as a basis. Place the front part on the back part in the position in which they have been drafted ami find point A, which is half-way between 5 and 10 on the front part. Mark off the seam thoroughly and mark same through to the back part as well. Front Part. Place front pari upon the paper which you wish to make the chart and mark all around the same as thi' heavier or middle line indicates. .Mark off point A. Square across from 10 to 4. Remove your model and rule a line from A to 1, A to 2, A to ::. A to 6, A to 7. A to 8, and A to 9. The increases and decreases at 10 and 5 are !, of an in< h. Continue your increases to 43, and your de- creases to 33. The increase and decrease at 3 is also | inch. The increases and decreases at 6 and are !, inch. The increase and decrease at 4 is 3 Hi of an inch. The increases and decreases at 1 and 2 are 3 l(i inch. ddie increases and decreases at 7 and S arc \ inch. Place your model on the chart and shape your 43 size from 1 to 10 and 9 to S. Shape your 43 size from 1 to 2. Move the model towards the front, shape your 43 size from 2 to 3 and I, and shape a our 43 size from 1 to (') and 7. Shape \ our 43 size from 8 t< > 7. Use your model as the shaper in the same man- ner f< >r the 33 size. Be sure that you have all your points clcarh marked so that the increases and decreases are clear. This completes the chart for the front part. Hack Part. Place the model back part on the paper < if which you wish to make the chart and proceed in the same manner as in the front part. Square across as indicated from 10 to 4. Rule a line from A to 1, A to 2, A to 3, A to 4, A to fi, A to 7, A to s and A to Rule a line from A to I, A to T and A to J|. The increases and decreases at points 1 ami 2 are 3/ Hi inch. The increases and decreases at I, II and T are 3/16 of an inch. The increases and decreases at points 3, 6, 9 and 10 are i inch in each case. The increases and decreases at 4 are 3/16 inch. The increases and decreases at 7 and S are \ inch. Use your model as shaper and move it around in the same manner as in the front part, shaping your 43 size from 1 to T, T to I, H to I, H to 2, 2 to 3, 3 to 4, 4 to 6, G to 7, 1 to 10, 10 to 9, 9 to 8 and 8 to 7. Shape yi mr 33. size in a like manner from 1 to 10, 10 to !), 9 to 8 and 8 to 7, 1 to T, T to I, H to 2 2 to 3, 3 to 4, 4 to 6 and fi to 7, use your model as a shaper in the same manner for the 33 size and line up the same from point to point , in exact- ly the same manner. .See that all the points are clearly marked. This completes the back part of the Trousers Grade. In taking the pattern from the chart first mark around your 43 size, getting your 43 pattern; re- duce your chart to 42 size, place same on the block pattern paper and mark around it thereby getting your 42 size. Reduce your chart again to 41 size, mark around in the same manner as in 43 and 42 size and you will have your 41 pattern. Proceed in like manner until you are down to the 33 size and you will have your set complete. 40 TROUSERS GRADE 41 APPENDIX. Never jump over or crawl under a problem in cutting you do not understand. Gather all the available facilities and make a strenuous effort to bore through the obstacle and your efforts will be crowned with success. A successful pair of trousers is the result of the harmonious working of science and art. By aiming at perfection we make sure of progress. Perfection is a visionary ghost for which all are seeking but none have ever attained. A correct conception of the figure is a requisite item for successful draping. What is grander or nobler than the draping of the human form. It was the first work laid out for man by the Almighty Deity. A knowledge of the fundamental principles governing the working power of a trousers system should be attained bv all desiring to excel in this art. It is a common error to imagine that any one can cut trousers, and this common error leads the masses of cutters to neglect a subject which is worthy of their best thought. Trousers cutting consists of two problems, viz: The fitting of the lower portion of the trunk an< the harmonious draping of the lower limbs. The poorest cutters are those who know it all, and the besl are those who know of the things they do not. know. 42 PROPORTIONATE INSEAM OF TROUSERS To be Used in Connection with the Table of Sizes for Coats. BREAST 5-4 5-5 5-6 6-7 5-8 5-9 5-10 5-11 6-ft 32 six 31V 32% 324 33% 33^ 34V 344 35V 33 31 31% 32 32| 33 331 34 341 35 34 30% 31| 31% 32| 32% 33| 33% 341 341 35 30V 31V 31% 32* 324 33M 334 34V 341 36 30% 31 31X 32 32% 33 33% 34 34^ 37 30% 30% 31% 314 32V 32% 33V 334 34V 38 30% 30% 31% 311 32% 32? 33% 33? 34% 39 30 3034 31 311 32 .21 33 331 34 40 29V 30V 301 311 31f 32^ 324 33V 3Sj 41 29% 30 30| 31 31 % 32 32| 33 33§ 42 2934 29% 30| 301 31 X 31% 321 321 331 43 29V 29V 30 V 304 31% 314 32V 824 33V 44 29 29% 30 30% 31 31% 32 32% 33 45 28% 29V 294 30V 30% 31V 311 32% 32| 46 28% 29% 29| 30% 30| 31 X 31 1 32% 32S 47 28| 29 29f 30 30| 31 311 32 32S 48 28V 284 29V 294 30% 304 31V 314 32V 49 28 284 29 29* 30V 30f 31 31 = 32 50 27% 28| 28% 29| 29% 301 301 31! 311 48 *«VCH SfMSs 3h r%c^i^<^^ ■ :■ ill'' I • « ■ J JSAKTORIAL ACADEM Y! ^^® ) ADAMS . EXPRESS BUDC. v— I I I V— 7\VZJ Wj|©^ _ yw'" PUBLICATIONS. THE FOLLOWING PUBLICATIONS MAY BE HAD AT OUR OFFICE: The Supreme System of Cutting Coa's and Vests, price $1000 The Supreme Trousers System " 5 00 The Supreme Cotter " 5 00 The Tailor Square Cutter for Ladies' Garments "' 6.00 PATTERNS. PRICE LIST. MEN'S Special Blocks in Sets An) Size from 32 to 42 Invemes or Cape Overcoats $1.75 51... 00 Raglan 1.75 15.00 Surtout Overcoat 1.50 12.00 S. B. or D. B. Sack Overcoat 125 12.00 Covert Coat 1.25 10.00 Dress or Tuxedo Coats 1.25 1000 S. B. or D. B. Frock Coats 1.25 10.00 Cutaway Frocks or Walking Coats 1.00 10.00 Single Breasted or Double Breasted Sack Undercoat 1.00 10.00 Trousers, any style 75 7.00 Vests, any style 50 6.00 WOMEN'S Special Blocks in Sels Any Size from 32 lo 42 Overgaitnents, plain $1.50 $12.00 " fancy or with Capes ... 2.00 15.00 S. B. or 1). B. Jackets 2.00 10.09 Newmarket 1.75 14.00 •• Frock Coats 1.25 10.00 Bodice or Waist 1.00 0.00 Covert Coats 1.00 10.00 Vests 50 5.00 Skirts 1.00 10.00 6 Sizes trom 32 lo 42 Riding Habits $3.00 $10.00 " with Trousers 4.00 15.00 Skirts 2.00 8.00 Trousers 1.00 5.00 44 ggo ^?£f| THE ART AND SCIE/MCE, PRACTICA AND FASHIONABLE CUTTER £ TAILOR'S TECHNICAL INFORMATION FOR CUTTERS andTAILORS. — ■ ♦ m PUBLISH ED. QUARTERLY GAZETTE FRED^.T. CROOAIBORG 187-189 DEARBORN ST. CHICAGO. THE FRED'K T. CROONBORG TAILOR'S CUTTING SCHOOL Ranks higher and has greater practical facili- ties than any OTHER School in America, and is the largest institution of its kind in the West- Full particulars as to what we teach and how we do it may be obtained upon applica- tion at our office TERMS FOR INSTRUCTIONS. TO BE PAID IN ADVANCE. Complete cour»e of instruction to Practical Tailors, time unlimited $IOO OO Coats alone SO OO VesU alone 30 00 Trousers alone 30 00 WOMENS. Complete course in Women's Garment Cutting Basque. .Jackets and all Over Garmenta Bodice. SleeTe and Skirts THE TAILOB SQUARE CUTTER WITH INSTRUCTIONS PRACTICAL CUTTERS. Desiring to change systems, limited to 12 days, Coats. Vests and Trousers. floats alone Vests alone Trousers alone Fittings aud Individuality GRADING SPECIAL. To persons not being practical tailors, the charge for a full course. 100 00 50 00 30 00 20 00 SO 00 30 00 15 OO 15 00 25 00 50 00 ISO 00 SPECIAL FEATURE. Practical Cutters. For Special and Private Instructions in measuring, drafting or enplaiuing points in Coats, Vests, Trousers or Grading. Cutting by Block Patterns, or Women's Garment Cutting, or any points pertaining to tailoring in general occupying from one hour to one day. $5.00 tO $25.00. THE FRED'K T. CROONBORG CUTTING SCHOOL. ADAMS EXPRESS BUILDING, CHICAGO.