A ■% mompth/e lUasttrated 12 Liantepn Slides WILLIAM H. ,!A,J FHaADELPHIt f r A DESCRIPTIVE READING ON BELGIUM ILLUSTRATED BY TWELVE LANTERN SLIDES . JAN 21.^._. , . '' Y "7^ - WILLIAM H. RAU PHILADELPHIA 1891 Copyright^ 189 1, by William H. Rau, ILLUSTRATIONS. 1 Cathedral at Antwerp. 2 Hotel de Ville. 3 Shipping — The Great Docks. 4 King's Palace, Brussels. 5 Grand Place, Brussels. 6 The Bourse. 7 Dog Team. 8 Lion Mount — Field of Waterloo. 9 Rocher Bayard Dinant, Sur Meuse. 10 Hotel de Ville Oudenarde. 11 Mechlin Cathedral. 12 Hotel de Ville, Ypres. - BELGIUM. Interwoven and garlanded about the head of this attractive country of Belgium is a chain of historic and artistic events, which give it a prominent and interesting position in the Congress of Nations, and makes a review of its cities as profitable and enter- taining a subject as one could care to take up, par- ticularly through the medium of views which speak so eloquently for themselves of the struggles and progressive development of this bit of wedge land bounded by Holland and the North Sea, France and Germany. It is asserted that before the completion of an art course, or an artist's graduation in his stud- ies can be claimed, Belgium and Holland must be visited, for 'tis there atmospheric effects are seen m their singularly true values, and the picturesque cos- tumes and marked habits of their people, open a field stored with funds of study and color. To the land of Rubens, Rembrandt, Van Dyke and clustering jewels of feebler sparkle, let us then turn our faces. Bel- gium was primitively settled by Celtic tribes, who finally submitted to Julius Caesar from thence on to undergo varied fortunes — owing principally to its peculiar location, it was ruled now by one people, then passing into the power of another, and so down to our own time in 1831, when the French Army penetrated Belgium, to enforce the Great Powers (5) 6 BELGIUM. Treaty of London, and after a long and difficult siege, took Antwerp. Its closely allied relations to France, though now a royalty again, accounts for the polish of its people, for the official language of the country is French, and almost all its literature is compiled in that tongue. Flemish is spoken however, and has had, and has in our day many noted writers. It was in 1883 that an order was issued to all the schools in the provinces, authorizing the teaching of the Flem- ish language. As Archbishop Trench, in his masterly work, ''The Study of Words," claims that the pro- gression of a nation is surely marked and discerned by the refinement of their conversations and Avritings; so is it of true art, which is the right arm of refine- ment and culture. Therefore, logically followed out on this premise, Belgium asserts herself as the seat of culture, for art has been her stronghold for many centuries. 1. Cathedral at Antwerp. — This commanding Gothic edifice of the Notre Dame is by far the most beautiful and imposing structure in Belgium. Its con- struction was started away back in 1352, and was in 1566 and in 1794 almost hopelessly destroyed. It was Napoleon who compared the tower of this cathedral to a *'net work of lace," and another notable charac- ter said it warranted a place in a jewel box. With all its imposing exterior their reigns within it such splendor and solemn grandeur as to be almost depress- ing. Here may be seen that masterpiece of Rubens, *'The Descent from the Cross," as well as the "Eleva- tion to the Cross." To reach the tower one would have to climb about 403 feet, and at the top is a chime BELGIUM. 7 of 99 bells. In the center of the square may be seen the musician's pavilion, for like the old Greek Lycurgas, the Flemish believe that Music and Art are the greatest educators. In this beautiful city of Antwerp, which to-day is the Mecca for many a tourist, one is struck by seeing in niches at almost every corner of the street, carved statues of the Virgin and Child. The city has a population of 204,500 inhabitants, and was in the time of Charles V, the most animated and successful city of the Christian world. As a shipping port it has few rivals. Steamers and sailing craft of all nations, are ruffling the bosom of the Schelt ever. Its history as a city is as varied as interesting. The old basin of the port was reconstructed by Napoleon, being considered at that time of strategic importance. Its fortifications now are regarded, from an engineering standpoint, as perfect ; and in case of dire emergency the sur- rounding country may be inundated. 2. Hotel cle Ville. — One wonders in wandering through Belgium and noting the amicable disposition of her people, why the necessity of the numerous Hotel deVilles or City Halls; for certainly the inhab- itants are not an unruly lot and would scarcely war- rant more than one seat of Justice in the entire coun- try. This one at Antwerp is of the Doric and Ionic architecture, built in the i6th century, and it is directly in the rear of the famous Cathedral. In a niche at the top, as may be plainly seen, is a statue of the Virgin, the patron saint of the city, and below are the allegorical figures of ''Wisdom" and ''Justice." In- side the staircase is a sight worth seeing, as it is most beautifully carved, and the ceilings are richly decor- 8 BELGIUM. ated. In one of the main rooms is a series of views illustrating the city, and a handsome relief of the city's arms. This entire interior was restored as late as 1882. Leaving the solitary figure to wander on in meditation to the entrance or trace his steps through the picturesque side streets, we will turn to , 3. Sliipping"— The Great Oocks. — Unlike Liver- pool entrance, where one is greeted by cold, bold granite, though magnificent docks, at Antwerp one is greeted with a pleasing prospect, for bordering the river, are the irregular and picturesque fronts of ancient houses. The rise and fall of the tides vary from 13 to 20 feet, and necessarily the quays are of the most substantial structure, not only on this account, but owing to the immense amount of ship- ping transacted from and to every known port in the world. The river is spanned by movable bridges, and hydraulic power is used to great extent in load- ing and unloading cargoes. Antwerp is the docking port for the Red Star Line, as well as for a regular service to Sidney, Australia and Shanghai, China. 4. King's Palace, Brussels. — The King's Palace or as it is better known, the Palais Royal, is located at the capital city of Brussels. Its situation is in that section of the city known as the elevated quarter, or the section represented by the nobility, while the commercial people settled in what is called the lower quarter. This peculiarity of divisions in cities is not alone confined to Brussels, however. In the edifice itself there is little that suggests the popular idea of a King's palace, its exterior suggesting more the BELGIUM. 9 appearance ofa well-regulated hotel. Prior to 1827 the Royal household occupied two buildings which were connected after that time by the erection of a central connecting structure which addition may be seen in this view — that part with the six Corinthian columns. In the interior the decorations and furnishings are very elaborate and one of the finest small collections of old masters in Europe may be seen here. The fact of the nobility remaining the greater portion of the year in the city, and the attending life such residence brings, may account in part for Brussels' well-known name of " Little Paris." Evidently when this view was cap- tured the King was away, for when he is present in the palace, the flying of the National flag at the staff always indicates the fact. 5. Grand Place, Brussels. — The Grand Place, or that park surrounding the Hotel de Ville, is very attractive. The hotel was built in the 15th century. Its architecture is Gothic, andhas been the study and model of architects for years. Its spire, but a portion of which is shown here, is not so high nor as rich in finish as that of Antwerp. The two wings of the building are uneven, being of different epochs and vary decidedly in the decoration of style. The lion's staircase, which may be seen to the left, leads to the entrance of the grand reception room with its elabor- ately carved oak, painted ceilings and old tapestries. All the niches hold statuettes, crowded together so closely as to spoil any decorative effect, and really appear ludicrous. At the very crown of the tower, could it be seen, is a large statue of St. Michael, put to the practical purpose of a weather-cock. lO BELGIUM. 6. The Bourse. — This modern building in the style of the Rennaissance, comes into view like a re- freshing bit of tree green after a day's prairie journey. There is something massive and imposing about its plans, and of such good composition as a whole that one cannot quickly tire of it. One unfortunate fact in its erection, was the use of a soft stone, which has 'been covered with oil paint to add to its durability. On the four corners are allegorical groups. Surround- ing the top is a statue of Belgium, with Industry re- presented on the right and Navigation to the left. The interior room or floor of the Exchange, where the principal daily meetings are held, is in the shape of a cross. The marble staircase alone is estimated at costing some ;^2oo,ooo ; so that some adequate idea may be formed of the appearance and expenditure on the rest of the building. 7. Dog- Team.— No tourist considers himself equipped with foreign souvenirs without a view of the Belgium dog team and the rosy-cheeked picturesque maiden. The dogs are of a peculiar breed, remark- ably hardy and strong, and do not seem to mind in the least the practical use they are enlisted in. For- tunately the general treatment they receive is kind, and such a view as this may be seen any market morning in the cities or along the surburban roads. It would seem that the miniature team had more than their share to draw, yet they manage to cover ground at a fair rate of speed. In the cart are the curiously shaped baskets and cans. These cans are kept scrupulously clean ; in our day they bid fair, how- ever, to become extinct, as artists have made such BELGIUM. 11 inroads on the supply for studio decorations. The women are always neat and tidy, and one appreciates the correct values of Dutch painters, who have per- petuated their waxy complexions. The gentleman in the view seems a trifle demonstrative, so 'twould be better, perhaps, to leave him to the pleasure of an uninterrupted embrace and turn to 8. Lion Mount. Field of Waterloo.— This Mount covers the site where some of the hardest fighting occurred in the great struggle of Waterloo. Over the ground was contested a battle which decided the fu- ture fate of one of the world's greatest heroes and a nation. Near by from the 17th to the 19th of June, 1 81 5, were the headquarters of the Duke of Welling- ton, Commander-in-Chief of the allied armies of England, Germany and Holland. 235 steps now lead to the top, which is crowned by an immense bronze lion cast from the French cannon. The tail of this huge beast was broken in 1832 by the French, who were then en route to the siege of Antwerp. From the elevation one of the best views of the battle field may be obtained, and directly below is the spot where the Duke of Orange was wounded. 9. Rocher Bayard I>inant, Sur Meuse. — During the time of Charlemagne and the Crusades, there figured four brothers named Aymon, noted for their bravery and daring, but most highly respected by all. Whether their loved horse Bayard made a fatal leap near the great rock, or whether he is buried close by it, is a point for conjecture; known it is however, they named the rock Bayard, and af^er their trusty 12 BELGIUM. steed. Few views present the picturesque value of this, which might well bring its medal reward for composi- tion if handled by a masterly hand with the brush. It was this colony, protected by natural fortifications, on the right bank of the Meuse, that created a name for itself in ancient times as a great stronghold. One pathetic bit of its history dates far back to 1467 when the inhabitants who had taken sides with the Duke of Bourgoyne met with reverses, and 800 of them were thrown into the river and drowned by the misnamed Philippe the Good. 10. Hotel de Ville, Oudenarde. — This beautiful structure was started in 1525 and finished after ten years. Though possibly not so large as many of the public edifices throughout Belgium, it certainly stands with the first in point of exterior beauty. The tower is five stories high, and surmounted by a crown, which is rich beyond description and upon this, a seeming brilliant jewel, is a large bronze statue. Like all the Hotel de Villes and Cathedrals the one at Oudenarde passed through the stage of statue decoration, but they have now disappeared. The handsome Gothic fireplace may be imagined in the interior and the Council Chamber with the historic door of fabulous propor- tions, is also within. However, an exterior review gives far more profit than a visit inside. Underneath the portico several huge posters may be seen and almost read. One word in regard to this city, which perhaps is a fact too well known to repeat: it is the most noted manufacturing point for linen and cotton goods in Europe. BELGIUM. 13 11. Meclilin Cathedral.— Not only is Mechlin the religious metropolis of Belgium, but it is also the great railway center, and perhaps as pretentious a city for ornamentation in the way of beautiful squares and gardens, as is to be seen in the country, This view hardly warrants that assertion, but like all pro- gressive points, improvements are evidently going on, so that unfavorable comment should be omitted. The Cathedral, whose great towering body looms up against the sky like a wierd guard, was commenced at the end of the 12th century and finished in 1312. Alter so much time and labor it was partly destroyed in the 14th century, and in being reconstructed was somewhat modified. It is in the form of a cross. Its clock face is said to be the largest in the world, and its chime of forty-five bells is considered remarkably sweet. The expense of erecting this huge edifice was defrayed by pilgrims of the 14th and 15th centuries. As may be seen by the scaffolding, it is now under- going repairs. One of the finest paintings from Van Dyke's brush is hanging inside its walls. 12. Hotel de Ville, Ypres. — Almost starting with a Hotel de Ville, and describing a few in this short run through Belgium, it is only in justice to terminate with one. Ypres is a city, whose active past life is asserted by the skeleton fortifications bordering it. Its location is on the river Yperlle, not really a river, more canal, running through a very fertile country. The numerous invasions Ypres suffered reduced its useful attempts at manufacturing to the production alone of laces. To-day it is but a shadow of its olden self, yet hundreds make their pilgrimage 14 BELGIUM. to its city door, to view the curiosities it holds in store. Just peeping up from the Hotel de Ville, is the face of St. Martin's Church. The Hotel again, at variance with its fellow houses of Justice, presents a new style of architecture. It covers considerable ground, and unlike the one at Oudenarde, holds more of interest within than without. Butto see it all, time must be had, and if the old clock tells the truth, twenty-five minutes of eleven is a fit time to close.