.W5 
 
DG 428 
 .N5 
 Copy 1 
 
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January, 1902. 
 
 The Plan Book. 
 
 Vol. V, No. 5. 
 
 A LITTLE JOURNEY 
 
 TO 
 
 ITALY 
 
 CLARA E. WHITCOMB 
 
 EDITOR 
 MARIAN M. GEORGE 
 
 FOR INTERMEDIATE AND UPPER 
 GRADES 
 
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 : CHICAGO : 
 A. FLANAGAN COMPANY 
 
THE LIBRASY 0F 
 CONGrS£SS, 
 
 Two CoHES fiEcave* 
 
 J^AR. 3 1902 
 
 Copyright Ewnfy 
 CLASS O^XXc H« 
 
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 COPY B. 
 
 Copyright, 1902 
 By a. FLANAGAN COMPANY 
 
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A Little Journey to Italy. 
 
 Europeans tell us that Europe is the most beautiful 
 country in the world and that the most beautiful part 
 of it is Italy. And this is true, for there is no country 
 of so small an extent that contains such lovely scen- 
 ery, thrilling history, and vast treasures of art. Great 
 numbers of people who visit^Italy are so charmed that 
 they talk about it more than they do of any other for- 
 eign country. This being so, we also want to see for 
 ourselves its great attractions. 
 
 In the first place we consult our maps and learn 
 that the shape of Italy resembles a seven-leagued boot. 
 It is long and flaring at the top, with a slender foot 
 and high heel. In length, Italy is seven hundred 
 miles. In the extreme north it is three-himdred and 
 fifty miles in width. Along the leg of the boot it 
 averages one hundred miles in width — of course, being 
 narrower in the toe and heel. 
 
 From Lombardy, the Apennines extend down the 
 length of Italy, branching off in broken lines, so that 
 one range goes down into the toe and the other down 
 into the heel. They resemble somewhat the seam 
 along the side of a boot. If^we stand upon the crest 
 of the mountains in the heel, we observe that we are 
 on a peninsula. Again when on the mountains near 
 the hollow of the foot, we see that we are on another 
 peninsula. It is only by looking at the map that we 
 
4 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 
 
 discover the whole of Italy to be a peninsula. And a 
 large one it is, for it contains 111,405 square miles. 
 
 From many points along the mountains, we have 
 glimpses of the water either on one side or the other. 
 The Apennines have rounded, wavy tops on which are 
 dense woods with a clearing here and there where 
 there is a Roman villa or an old castle. Perched on 
 the sides of the mountains are huts that look as if they 
 were camping out. Where the slopes of the hillsides 
 are gradual, they are covered with forests and vegeta- 
 tion. The always snow-crested Alps completely close 
 in Italy on the north and with steep sides descend 
 into Normandy. 
 
 There are many quickly flowing mountain streams 
 of clear, cold, pure w^ater made from melted snow. 
 The rivers of Italy are few and small. The Po is the 
 chief river in northern Italy. It has a rapid current 
 and has washed much soil into the sea — thus being a 
 natural builder of some of the land found at its mouth. 
 The two rivers of any importance west of the Apen- 
 nines are the Arno — which is the only one of any size 
 — and the sluggish Tiber. These rivers add much to 
 the beauty of the country, although they are com- 
 monly of a muddy color. But they are not so useful 
 in transportation, for they are hardly navigable. 
 
 There is so much of interest in Italy — and it takes 
 so long before one is satisfied — that many people re- 
 main there for years. They spend the summers most 
 delightfully on the cooler mountains, at Naples — where 
 it is pleasant during the entire year, — or elsewhere on 
 the coast. April and May — as well as September and 
 October — are almost perfect months, and are there- 
 
Xougjtude East .from Greenwich, 
 
 
A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 5 
 
 fore the best times during any of the seasons for see- 
 ing Italy. Throughout the summers, the days are 
 often unpleasantly warm, and the winters in the 
 middle and northern parts disagreeably cold. 
 
 .M 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 ARRIVAL AT NAPLES. 
 
 For a few days after leaving Gibralter, the great 
 rock fortress guarding the western entrance to the 
 Mediterranean, we keep on our course steadily until 
 on a fine morning we enter the Bay of Naples. The 
 water here has become as smooth as gla :s. What ex- 
 citement there is on board! All are looking at the 
 
6 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 
 
 shore and walking from one side of the steamer to the 
 other in order to see everything. 
 
 Such a broad, lovely sweep of bay, we have never 
 before seen. Surely there can be none more beauti- 
 ful. How large it is, too. To our right is the misty 
 purple island of Capri — which later we are to visit. 
 Not far away is the peaceful town of Sorrento, with its 
 fruit trees in blossom, its white stone houses embow- 
 ered in orange and lemon trees, and their yards fra- 
 grant with roses. 
 
 About this time, we see a thick cloud in the clear 
 blue sky which proves to be grey blue smoke hover- 
 ing over the volcano Vesuvius. Until a few years ago 
 the smoke rose from the top of the crater — just as we 
 have seen it in the pictures of our geographies. Re- 
 cently, though, it has broken through the side near 
 the top. 
 
 Everything in view is more lovely than anything of 
 which we have ever dreamed. There is a saying by 
 Italians — '^See Naples and die.'^ This is for the rea- 
 son that its beauty is so great one ought to be satisfied 
 never to expect any other spot in the world to be so 
 delightful. Words fail us when we try in our 
 home letters to describe it. However much we 
 have travelled, this glorious sight makes us, more than 
 ever, wish to see as much of the world as is possible. 
 
 There is a broad level street near the water, along 
 which people are driving in all sorts of carriages. 
 Picturesque little beggars persistently follow the car- 
 riages and are delighted to receive a copper or two. 
 Should the gift amount to so much as five cents it 
 will buy enough food to last an entire day. Many of 
 
A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 7 
 
 these little beggars and other ItaHans Hve from day 
 to day upon this small sum. 
 
 At last the steamer stops and is lashed to the pier. 
 Everyone hastens to go ashore. This is not done at 
 once, for we find that we are directly in front of the 
 custom house, and that the only way to go ashore is 
 to pass through it. Here we must wait until the of- 
 ficers have looked into our trunks and have asked if 
 we have any tobacco or cigars. When we say we 
 have nothing of the kind, we are believed. We have 
 learned that going through this custom house is little 
 more than a form. The officers have been polite and 
 have taken no more time than necessary. They wear 
 such little caps with small visors turned almost 
 straight down towards their noses that they look un- 
 comfortable. Nor are the visors any protection from 
 the sun when worn out of doors. If there were not so 
 many of these queer little caps, we might think their 
 wearers had, by mistake, put on some belonging to 
 small boys. 
 
 ON LAND. 
 
 Soon we are in an odd little cab which is something 
 like a Victoria, except that it is tiny enough to be 
 drawn by a pony. Indeed, the horse is almost small 
 enough to be called a pony. The driver almost con- 
 tinually cracks his whip and drives the horse as fast as 
 it can go. All horses trot rapidly and there is so much 
 cracking of whips that one thinks of the Fourth of 
 July. 
 
 Naples is a climbing city — for it beginsdown on the 
 level shore — and keeps on until its height is about 
 
8 
 
 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 
 
 nine hundred feet. So, up and up we go. The httle 
 horse has become tired, but the driver urges it on still 
 farther. We reach the hotel and on passing through 
 the door are in a court or garden. How strange that 
 the houses here are built around yards, while with us 
 the yards surround the houses. Everything is so dif- 
 ferent from anything we have seen that we want at 
 once to take a long walk. To our surprise — for a day 
 or two— wx are awkward on our feet, and this is be- 
 cause we have had such a shaking-up on the stormy 
 
 PEASANTS IN CHARACTERISTIC COSTUMES. 
 
A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 9 
 
 Mediterranean Sea. However, we do not care much, 
 because there are drives in every direction — and not 
 one that is not of interest. 
 
 Everything we see is entirely novel and strange to 
 us. We walk out of our rooms onto little balconies 
 that surely are just like private porches of the fairies. 
 We often sit here to look at Vesuvius and the blue 
 water of the bay dotted with islands and covered with 
 queer looking sail and fisher boats. A steamer from 
 Egypt is arriving and another is leaving for New York. 
 There are, besides, small pleasure boats coming and 
 going. 
 
 HOME AND STREET LIFE. 
 
 How dark the people are! The climate is so per- 
 fect they live much in the open air. The sunshines 
 brightly winter and summer, which tans the already 
 dark Italians. Indeed, there is little winter in Naples, 
 for it seldom freezes. We know^ that it cannot be 
 really cold where orange trees grow out of doors and 
 are always covered with green leaves. Naples has a 
 well deserved reputation for being one of the dirtiest 
 and noisiest cities in the world. It is the largest city 
 in Italy, with a population of more than half a million. 
 
 Many of the people are so poor that they live in 
 basements where there are few if any windows. An 
 entire family lives in one room where there is hardly 
 any furniture. Others live in high houses in narrow 
 streets. Some live at the bottom of the hill, some 
 part of the way up, and others farther still until the 
 top is reached. There are no elevators and no stair- 
 cases in the houses, although, many of them have six 
 
10 
 
 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 
 
 stories. So, how do you suppose one gets up into 
 them? We go around and see stone steps of the same 
 width as the streets leading up from the bottom of the 
 hill to the top. 
 
 HOMES OF THE POOR, NAPLES. 
 
 Almost at any time on these broad, high stone steps 
 there may be seen groups of men, women, children, 
 babies, dogs, and goats. Stretched across from 
 window to window, and hanging on the windows,there 
 are clothes spread out to dry. 
 
 These tall, narrow houses are damp and chill, with 
 many of the rooms so dark that when the inmates arise 
 
A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 11 
 
 in the morning^they are glad to get out into the warmer 
 air and bright sunshine. They never have to wait for 
 breakfast, for it is not cooked at home, where there is 
 no fire. The mother knows how to cook, and so do 
 the httle girls. Even the boys can cook, but there is 
 no need of going to the expense of having a fire whea 
 breakfast can be had on the street. Besides, the 
 Italians like to be together — just as does a flock of 
 sheep. By going out, they not only get into the warm 
 sunshine, but they meet many of their friends. A 
 number of people who live high up in the houses save 
 themselves the trouble of coming down by lowering a 
 basket — with the money inside — for the food that they 
 buy. 
 
 Breakfast is the simplest of meals. It consists of a 
 cup of coffee, costing one cent. The coffee vender has 
 it in a queer shaped copper coffee pot, under which is 
 a pan of burning charcoal to keep it hot. Soon the 
 air is ringing with the harsh loud voices of pedlers call- 
 ing out their wares — the clamor lasting the entire day. 
 
 Charcoal pedlers are numerous. They carry the 
 charcoal straight up on their backs in narrow bags 
 which are longer than themselves. One vender has 
 roasted chestnuts to sell, and another has steaming 
 boiled ones which are so good that we often buy some. 
 There are women with skillets of boiling lard in which 
 they fry rice balls, doughnuts, crullers, potato cro- 
 quettes, truffles, wafers, also artichokes dipped in egg 
 and fried until they are a delicate brown. There are 
 boiled beans, meat rolls — something like our turn- 
 overs — and fried corn cakes stuffed either with rais- 
 ins or cracklings. There is a shortcake greased with 
 
12 
 
 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 
 
 lard and spread with tomatoes and grated cheese. 
 On fast days, the shortcake is greased with oil instead 
 of lard, and 
 spread with an- 
 c h o V i e s sea- 
 soned with gar- 
 lic. There are 
 kettles of to- 
 mato sauce in 
 which are float- 
 ing bits of meat, 
 and kettles of 
 highly seasoned 
 ragout. And — 
 to us the least 
 tempting of all 
 — pig's blood 
 mixed w^ith 
 chocolate and 
 beaten to a 
 foam. This — a 
 delicacy for the 
 rich — is to be 
 had at Christ- 
 mas times only, 
 blood, all of these 
 
 STREET IN OLD NAPLES. 
 
 With the exception of the pig's 
 foods are cheap and are sold in 
 small quantities, even as little as a half cent's worth. 
 Of course, there are fruits, vegetables, and flowers. 
 Cherries are just now in season and half ripe. The 
 Italians — for some reason — prefer to eat fruit before it 
 is fully ripe. Even food for the cats is not forgotten. 
 In nearly every shop we see a sleek, well-fed cat. A 
 
A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 13 
 
 man goes his rounds daily with cooked hmgs for the 
 cats. The shop cat is usually given a piece cut into 
 small bits. But the poor dogs have to do the best 
 they can for a living and look out for themselves. 
 
 Italians are called macaroni eaters. But this is not true 
 of the poorer classes, who can afford to eat it once a 
 week only. Thus it is in one or two quarters only that 
 macaroni is cooked in the open air. As we wish to see 
 how it [is eaten in Naples, we pay for dish after dish 
 and give it to a begger child. The tubes of the maca- 
 roni are longer than those we have at home. The 
 child holds one end in his fingers,high above his head, 
 taking the other end in his mouth. The long smooth 
 macaroni shdes down quickly. So, we see a number 
 of dishes disappear while we wonder how it is done so 
 easily. 
 
 For those persons who are not so poor there is the 
 huge devil fish cooked in tomato sauce. There are 
 lobsters, oysters, mussels, clams, starfish, truffles, snails 
 from the sea, also land snails. During the summer, 
 there are large kettles of hot field corn — not sweet corn, 
 for this is not grown in Italy, although this would 
 seem just the place for it. 
 
 But the strangest of all sights to us is the delivery 
 of milk. The cow is brought to the door, where 
 the milking is done. In this way the milk is sure 
 to be pure and not watered. A calf is tied to 
 its mother, yet not quite near enough to do any milk- 
 ing for itself. Thus, it is made to fool its mother by 
 its efforts, so that she gives down her milk. And this 
 is why the'milkman has brought it along. But some- 
 times the calf fools him by slipping the rope far enough 
 
14 
 
 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 
 
 for it to enjoy the mother^s milk. When the man dis- 
 covers this, he gives a loud yell, seizes the calf by the 
 tail and pulls it away. We laugh, although we are 
 sorry for the calf. Still it has succeeded in getting so 
 much of the milk that there is no more to sell. 
 
 As cows are dignified, they are taken along the 
 streets,but the nimble goats can climb everywhere that 
 
 ARTISTS' MODELS. 
 
 we can. Therefore, they are taken upstairs, even in 
 the best houses, where the milking is done. 
 
 The Itahans prefer goats milk for babies, because 
 they believe it contains no germs. 
 
A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 
 
 15 
 
 WASHING DAY AT NAPLES. 
 
 Many of the poorer Italian babies and children die 
 on account of the dirt, bad food, and impure air of 
 the crowded sleeping rooms. Those who manage to 
 live amuse themselves with Punch and Judy shows 
 and various games. Italian children have sunny dispo- 
 sitions, like the climate of their country. Although 
 they grow angry quickly, the temper does not last 
 long. They have large brown eyes and the blackest 
 of hair. The climate is so perfect that they spend all 
 of the time they are not asleep at home, in the open 
 air — no matter what the season may be. 
 
 The working classes are quaintly dressed. Women 
 
16 
 
 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 
 
 — wearing bodices around their waists — are washing at 
 the fountains. The Unen is about the color of the 
 stones — and not much cleaner for the washing. 
 
 TYPICAL NAPOLITAN HUCKSTER'S CART. 
 
 On every street one sees small carriages drawn by 
 strong little ponies that come from one of the islands 
 not far away. They have gayly colored harness and 
 wear feathers standing straight up and nodding from 
 the tops of their heads. The first thing that occurs to 
 us is: — 
 
 "Stuck a feather in his cap 
 And called it macaroni." 
 
 It was because of these same ponies in Naples with 
 their gaudy head dresses of feathers that this quaint 
 old rhyme was written. Some of the ponies and 
 horses have no bits in their mouths. They are guided, 
 
A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 
 
 17 
 
 instead, by a spike of iron or steel which stands out 
 
 from the bridle near the mouth to which the hnes are 
 
 fastened. 
 
 ACQUARIUM. 
 
 As the Acquarium of Naples is the finest and most 
 interesting one in the world, we lose no time in visit- 
 ing it. It is not necessary to order a cab, as there are 
 many on the street waiting to be hired. As soon as 
 we reach the front door so many cab men signal to us 
 that we try to select the one whose horse looks the 
 least tired. At the best, there are but few good horses 
 for hire in Naples. 
 
 A XEaPOLITAV rr.AiAXT'S TEAM— SLIGHTLY MIXED. 
 
 We wind down many streets until we have reached 
 the foot of the hill and are at La Villa— a park on the 
 sea. In the park are tropical trees, statues, small 
 temples and fountains. We soon arrive at the Ac- 
 quarium — a large structure — which is in the middle 
 of La Villa. We buy tickets and enter. Once inside, 
 
18 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 
 
 we open our eyes wide and look at one another in as- 
 tonishment. We see what seems to be beautiful flow- 
 ers in glass cases, blossoming and hiding themselves, 
 and we are amazed to learn they are not flowers at 
 all, but forms of marine life. 
 
 We sit and watch the singular yellow or brown 
 creations push up through long cigar-like hollow stalks 
 slowly unfolding into what seem gorgeous chrysanthe- 
 mums, then sliding down into the stock as completely 
 out of sight as if they had never existed. This they 
 repeat over and over again. Among them wander 
 small, stately sea horses. 
 
 In some of the tanks are pike fish, queer looking 
 crabs and crawfish. Here are long fishes that are 
 striped from head to tail. Some are spotted, others 
 are large and round with large mouths. And others, 
 still, have rainbow colors. Later when some of these 
 are served up to us at the hotel table, they are so 
 lovely that it hurts our feelings to eat them. When 
 we stand before a hideous octopus, we are almost 
 afraid until we recall that there is really glass between 
 us. Yet, we touch the glass to be sure that no harm 
 can come to us. The tanks are lighted from above 
 with an effect of sunlight, and in them fresh water is 
 constantly bubbling. We watch the white balloon- 
 shaped jelly fish with their violet fringes. They are 
 so thin and filmy that we can see quite through them. 
 They are so lovely that we should hke to look at 
 them every day of our lives. Every day fresh speci- 
 mens of sea life are brought here in glass jars. A 
 man places several of these jars in a basket and carries 
 it on his head. What if he should stumble and let 
 the basket fall ! But he never does. 
 
A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 
 
 19 
 
 SORRENTO. 
 
 We go aboard a small steamer and in an hour and 
 a quarter are at Sorrento. The town is on a slop- 
 ing precipice over- 
 hanging the sea. 
 Along the shore are 
 many grottoes. In 
 1544 Tasso, the 
 poet, was born at 
 Sorrento. He 
 lived in a house 
 that was built on 
 the water's edge. 
 In time, the sea 
 washed away both 
 rock and house. 
 
 On one side of 
 Sorrento, there are 
 mountains which 
 act as a wall. 
 They shelter the 
 town of eight 
 thousand people 
 from the strong 
 winds. On an- 
 other side, is a 
 deep ravine that superstitious people beheved to 
 be the home of dwarfs. Across this ravine is a high 
 bridge. The air here is just about perfect, for it is 
 neither too cool nor too warm. It makes us feel 
 well and gives us just enough energy. 
 
 CHILDREN OF SORRENTO. 
 
20 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 
 
 The white stone houses nestle in the midst of fra- 
 grant gardens, and some are almost hidden by green 
 vines and trees. Here the orange and lemon trees 
 bear at the same time blossoms and fruit. Roses, 
 jasmine, and other flowers add their perfume to the 
 scent of the heavily charged air. We observe that the 
 people are extremely good looking. They have fine 
 features and unusually good figures. They have large 
 soft brown eyes, and gentle manners. 
 
 We return to the beach and notice the bluest of 
 skies, the blue water, the grey blue smoke above Ve- 
 suvius and the misty purple islands. Naples appears 
 like white spots in a forest of purply green. This is 
 altogether the most charming view of nature we have 
 ever had. We have been told that many travellers 
 who come to the south of Italy for a few days remain 
 weeks, that many who come for weeks remain years, 
 and that a few linger for the rest of their lives. We 
 do not wonder at this and so regret that we have but 
 one month for the whole of Italy. 
 
 CAPRI. 
 
 Capri is a small mountainous island rising out of 
 the water. It is a little longer than it is wide. In 
 shape, its top is something like a saddle. Monte 
 Solaro may be called the pommel of the saddle. It 
 has a height of nearly two thousand feet. On one 
 side, it rises abruptly from the water. The town of 
 Capri is the capital of the island and is on the saddle 
 part. It has about three thousand citizens. The 
 number on the entire island is not more than five 
 thousand. The slopes of the island are so steep that 
 
A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 
 
 21 
 
 NATIONAL MUSEUM, NAPLES. 
 
 as we view them from a distance, it seems almost im- 
 possible to climb to the top. At the same time, we 
 decide that it is one of the most beautiful of the won- 
 drously lovely places in sight. As we approach, paths 
 are seen in winding lines leading up the mountains. 
 In this zigzag way the ascent, after all, is not as steep 
 as w^e thought. 
 
 The people of Capri are industrious and all are at 
 work. They grow much fruit and make quantities of 
 wine. They make oil from the olives which grow on 
 
22 
 
 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 
 
 the many olive trees. These trees thrive in rocky 
 places where there is almost no soil. If there is a 
 spot that is good for nothing else it is just the place 
 for an olive tree to flourish. Many of the men are 
 
 fishermen who go 
 out to sea in their 
 boats for fish and 
 coral. The wo- 
 men are largely 
 engaged in weav- 
 ing. The children 
 beat down olives 
 from the trees, 
 gather fruits, and 
 do all sorts of 
 work for which 
 they have the 
 strength. 
 
 Every year, 
 more than thirty 
 thousand strang- 
 ers visit Capri and, 
 as they spend mon- 
 ey, this increases 
 the comfort of the people. Children — as well as men 
 — act as guides, and so earn their share of the money. 
 Many artists come to Capri and paint the lovliest of 
 pictures. Emperor Augustus was the first person to 
 notice the fine climate and beauty of the island. He 
 came here and lived for a number of years. He built 
 for his pleasure aqueducts, baths, palaces, and twelve 
 villas for the worship of heathen gods. Nothing is 
 
 CHILDREN OF SORRENiO. 
 
A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 
 
 23 
 
 now left of these structures except ruins. Today, 
 parts of them are used as cow and donkey stables. 
 
 But interesting as the island is, we came especially 
 to see the world-famed Blue Grotto. As we approach 
 the entrance we 
 
 notice the clear- m ™ ^^ ^^7 — "^^^^'"n 
 
 ness, purity, and 
 blueness of the 
 water. How dis- 
 tinctly we see the 
 bright colored sea- 
 stars,and jellyfish. 
 They are numer- 
 ous and so near us 
 that we can almost 
 touch them. But 
 what a peculiar 
 entrance. It is in 
 the rocks and but 
 three feetin height 
 and quite narrow. 
 On this account 
 our skiffs are so 
 small that they 
 hold but three 
 
 persons. We bend forward to avoid striking our 
 heads against the roof. When we raise them what a 
 change! Surely some one has rubbed Aladdin's lamp! 
 We are in a cavern with a roof that is forty feet above 
 us. The floor is of water one hundred feet in width, 
 and one hundred and seventy-five feet in length. The 
 depth of the water is sixty-four feet. 
 
 PEASANT GIRLS AT NAPLES. 
 
24 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 
 
 Our eyes are dazzled by the brilliant blueness. 
 Everything is blue — the water, the rocks, and the ceil- 
 ing. We look at one another — and we, too, are blue. 
 When we have become accustomed to the spectral 
 blue, another surprise is in store. A boy plunges into 
 the water and swims around, his body appearing to be 
 silver. We then dip down our hands and arms — and 
 they too, look like silver. As we row around, the 
 parts of the oars in the water are all silvery while the 
 parts out of it seem blue. And so it is with every- 
 thing within the grolto. All that is out of the water 
 is blue and all that is in it is silvered. Near the mid- 
 dle of the grotto are some steps that are now closed at 
 the upper end. They were, probably, the landing 
 place for Tiberius, who from here went through an un- 
 derground passage to his palace. So far as has been 
 discovered, there is nothing in any part of the world 
 like the Blue Grotto. 
 
 After coming out and rowing for half an hour, we 
 reach the Green Grotto. This entrance is high and 
 there is an abundance of light. On going in, we see 
 that everything is the lovliest, richest green — more like 
 the emerald stone than anything else. All is rarely 
 beautiful. Yet, there are still more wonders to come 
 — for there is the White Grotto, where everything is 
 as white as milk — the Red Grotto, whose roof sparkles 
 with red crystals, the Fern Grotto where grow luxuri- 
 ant ferns, and the Stalactite Grotto. 
 
 We continue our row around the marvelous island. 
 In placeS; the land slopes gently down towards the 
 water. On it almost everything is growing. Figs are 
 ripe. We do not understand why they should be in 
 
A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 
 
 25 
 
 SO at this time of the year. We are told that last 
 winter the clever Italians covered the trees in order to 
 prevent the already formed figs from ripening. The 
 covers were re- 
 cently removed so 
 that the sun could 
 shine upon the 
 trees. This ripened 
 the figs and now 
 we are eating the 
 delicious fruit. In 
 the water, we see 
 many peculiar 
 looking fish. We 
 go by picturesque 
 places,precipices,a 
 small island called 
 ^^ The Gun ''—be- 
 cause of its shape, 
 and around one 
 that is named 
 "The Cheese." 
 Our boat glides 
 through archways 
 in the rocks that were worn through by the water, and 
 on past strangely shaped nooks. 
 
 VESUVIUS. 
 In the evening, we sit on a balcony and watch Vesu- 
 vius. Great flames of fire flare up from the crater, and 
 stones as red as fire shoot up with them. A lurid light 
 is cast over the mountains, the city of Naples, the vil- 
 lages, and the boats in the harbor. Everything looks 
 
 NEAPOLITAN BOY 
 
26 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 
 
 as if it might be on fire. It is all so strange and 
 wonderful that it seems more like a dream than reality. 
 The Neapolitans do not have to buy barometers, as 
 is the case with us. They own the largest barometer 
 in the world — and it is Vesuvius. One can foresee 
 the change of weather twenty-four hours in advance — 
 according to the direction of the smoke from Vesuvius. 
 When it moves toward Capri, there will be fine weather. 
 If in winter it will be clear and cool. When the smoke 
 moves toward the west, cold weather may be expected. 
 When the smoke remains over the creater thick and 
 heavy, a south wind with rain is to follow. So, when 
 we want to know what kind of weather to expect, all 
 we have to do is to step out on a balcony and read for 
 ourselves. Switzerland has the tallest barometer in 
 the world. What a grand sight, if the two mountain 
 peaks could be placed side by side. Today, Vesuvius 
 says the weather will be fine, so we go to Pompeii. 
 
 POMPEII. 
 
 Pompeii was once a town with a population of from 
 20,000 to 30,000. In the year 63, there was an earth- 
 quake which threw down temples, rows of columns, 
 theaters, and private dwellings. The people at once 
 began rebuilding and all was hardly completed when 
 on August 24, 79 the whole city was entirely buried 
 by an eruption of Vesuvius. First there was a thick 
 shower of ashes which fell to the depth of three feet. 
 There was time for the people to escape, but many re- 
 turned — some because they thought all was over — and 
 others to save what they could of their belongings. 
 Suddenly, red hot pumice stones were thrown from the 
 
A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 27 
 
 crater and came rolling down the mountain until these 
 and the hot ashes were seven or eight feet in depth. 
 There came more hot ashes, and then red hot stones 
 until there was a depth of twenty feet. Pompeii was 
 entirely hidden and two thousand people had met with 
 a horrible death. 
 
 In 1748 a peasant, in digging, found some statues 
 and bronze vessels. This interested a king, who caused 
 more digging to be done. Ever since then, other 
 workers have unearthed parts of Pompeii until now 
 there are always from a few to several hundred men 
 at work. It is supposed, that at the rate these men 
 are working, in little more than fifty years Pompeii 
 will be entirely excavated. This will be at the ex- 
 pense of $1,000,000. So many people visit Pompeii, 
 that the admission fees amount to $8,000 a year. 
 
 About one half of the most important part of Pom- 
 peii has been excavated — temples, and amphitheater, 
 public buildings, theaters, and private houses. So 
 many stair-cases have been found that we believe the 
 houses were of two and three stories, and that the 
 upper stories were of wood. The lower part is built 
 of small stones — held together with cement, with 
 bricks, or with stones in the shape of bricks. The 
 columns at the door ways, the pillars — and some of 
 the sides of the houses are of stone. The houses vary 
 in size and decoration, according to the wealth and 
 taste of the owner. There are but few windows on the 
 streets. When there are openings — as windows — they 
 are protected by iron gratings. The best houses are 
 entered from the street through a hall-like passage. The 
 rooms open into a central space which was a court or 
 
28 A IJTTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 
 
 yard. Here, long ago, was a reservoir for the water 
 collected from the sloping roofs. To us, the bedrooms 
 seem small and too dark. In them, there may yet be 
 seen one article of funiture — a stone bedstead. We 
 go into other courts which have fountains in the center 
 and statues standing about. Flowers once grew among 
 them. 
 
 We walk along streets — the widest of which are 
 twenty-four feet, and along others whose width is 
 but fourteen feet. As we cross from one side of the 
 street to the other, we do so on the same stepping 
 stones that people used nearly two thousand years ago, 
 when the streets were wet with rain. We notice deep 
 ruts in the stone paved streets, that were worn by the 
 heavy chariot wheels. At the corners, there are foun- 
 tains with backs that are of lovely mosaics. We see 
 hollows in the stones that were worn by the hands of 
 the people as they leaned over to drink from the 
 fountain. The guide shows us how this was done. 
 
 We pass by old wine shops which are much like the 
 ground floor shops that we saw this morning in Naples. 
 We stop at a counter of marble with large round holes 
 in the top. Under every hole is a huge clay jar with a 
 large mouth fitting into the opening of the counter. 
 These jars were filled with wine which was protected 
 by a covering of oil that floated on the top. And here 
 they are today — empty and without a crack — as if the 
 shop keeper had just stepped out to give an order for 
 them to be refilled. 
 
 As we watch the excavators at work, it is like play- 
 ing a game, because every minute something new 
 comes to light. As the walls are uncovered, they are 
 
A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 29 
 
 quite damp, but uninjured, and of the most beautiful 
 red. Of the kind, we have few walls at home so artis- 
 tic. We go into a number of houses whose decorations 
 are as fresh as if they had just been painted. The 
 largest and most magnificent dwelling is the House of 
 the Fawn. It received its name on account of a statue 
 of a fawn that was found here in 1831. It was in this 
 house that the celebrated mosaic picture of the Battle 
 of Alexander belonged. Mosaics are commonly bits of 
 glass or stone in different colors, stuck so closely with 
 cement that one can hardly detect the edges. When 
 a mosaic picture is finished — unless one is quite near — 
 it appears to be a painting-. In the Battle of Alex- 
 ander there are 1,374,516 of these stones — and not one 
 of them is as large as the nail on one's little finger. A 
 number of men worked upon it. Had but one man 
 done so, it would have taken him a large portion, if 
 not all, of his life to finish the work. 
 
 In another house, we see on the dining-room walls 
 a mosaic representing fishes, fruits, nuts, and other 
 things to eat. Some mosaics are simply strange, some 
 fanciful, and others exqusitely beautiful. We visit a 
 theater, and walk along the street of tombs. We go 
 into the museum and see the cast of a dog and of peo- 
 ple that were suddenly surprised by death. They ap- 
 pear to have had hardly time- to move. They were 
 buried alive in hot lava — that soon hardened into a 
 mold — which still remains while their bodies crumbled 
 away. Plaster has been poured into these molds, so 
 now we have perfect plaster representations of the 
 death agony of these unfortunate people. The expres- 
 sion of suffering and fear on the faces is as vivid as 
 
30 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 
 
 one can ever see on a living human face. It is so ter- 
 rible that we almost wish we had not seen them. The 
 dog is turning around as if he were trying to escape. 
 The picture haunts us for days and probably we shall 
 never forget it. 
 
 As we were starting for Pompeii there was a young 
 American girl who carried a mandolin. But there 
 were no tickets admitting mandolins on the train. The 
 agent thought awhile, and finally required her to buy 
 for it a dog ticket. And so the mandolin travelled 
 from Naples to Pompeii on a dog ticket. 
 nUSEUM OF NAPLES. 
 
 We reserve for the last the museum, believing that 
 we can better appreciate and enjoy the objects here 
 when we have been to the places where many of them 
 were found. The museum was built in 1586 for a cav- 
 alry barrack, yet since 1790 it has been a museum. It 
 is a large, fine building, with so many things, that to 
 see everything properly would require weeks. When 
 our minds become so tired that we cannot well grasp 
 what is before us, we step out on one of the balconies 
 and sit down to rest. We are high above and almost 
 over the corner of the two principal streets. We 
 should never tire of watching the busy, animated 
 throng below. On being rested, we continue going 
 through the rooms. 
 
 How delightful to see the Battle of Alexander after 
 having been through the house where it belonged, and 
 also for the reason that the figures are so lifelike. We 
 wonder at the patience and skill of the men that put to- 
 gether more than a milhon of the small cubes which 
 made such a remarkable picture. 
 
A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 31 
 
 A marble vase attracts our attention. On it — in 
 relief — is a graceful Mercury — messenger of the gods — 
 followed by dancing figures. The strange story about 
 it is that it was used at Formia as a hitching post for 
 boats. It is odd that there was such a wealth of love- 
 ly things, that one of them could be put to such a 
 common use. We should be delighted to stand it in 
 our best room at home. However, money could not 
 buy this vase, for there is a law to prevent works of 
 art being taken out of Italy. Still, when there are a 
 number of things exactly alike, all but one may be 
 sold. Here are some of the finest paintings, statues, 
 mosaics, and dainty frescoes in existence. 
 
 In no other museum are there so many frescoed 
 walls — most of which were brought from Pompeii. A 
 fresco is a plain color or picture that is painted upon a 
 ceiling or wall before the plaster is dry. The painters 
 then hving knew how to prepare the plaster so that it 
 would not dr}^ so quickly as our plaster does. This 
 being true , they did not have to hurry when at work. 
 Some of the walls are painted over in one color of 
 blue, yellow, black, or red — often the last — and are 
 usually richly decorated. Many of the pictures tell 
 the stories of the myths. 
 
 An exquisite picture is that of Psyche — a goddess of 
 beauty — holding a lyre. On the strings of the lyre 
 Cupid, god of love, is so lightly poised, that in fancy, 
 we see his toes lightly dancing over them, and can al- 
 most hear the music. Other figures with gauzy but- 
 terfly wings flit along daintily. There are pictures of 
 graceful, lovely young girls whirling so rapidly in 
 dancing that their fleecy draperies are in a perfect 
 swirl of beautiful curves. 
 
32 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 
 
 A number of painters spend most of their time 11 
 making copies of these maidens. The pictures they 
 paint are readily rolled into small tubes and are easily 
 carried. We buy some, while ever so many people do 
 the same. 
 
 Some walls have painted on them sprays, borders of 
 leaves, flowers^ a bit of landscape, a house with trees, 
 a grotto, a mosque, fresh fruit, and even cooking ves- 
 sels. Most of all, we admire the airy, fanciful figures 
 and graceful beauty of the human form. In other 
 rooms, we find the remains of food brought from Pom- 
 peii — and can tell what it is — although it was buried 
 so long I ago. Strange as it is, the burning lava pre- 
 served it. There is a bottle of oil, a pan of meat, figs, 
 grain, pears, onions, nuts, honey-comb, round loaves 
 of bread, one of which is stamped with the name of 
 the baker, glass tubes filled with olives, and a glass 
 dish containing barley. 
 
 In bronze, there are figures of pigs, birds and 
 
 horses. We are surprised to see tables, couches, 
 
 lamps, drinking horns, tickets to the theater, pieces of 
 
 money , tools of workmen, surgical instruments, vases, 
 
 helmets, knives, combs, hair-pins, hand-mirrors, 
 
 needles and even safety pins. Before leaving Naples, 
 
 we buy souvenirs made of lava, tortoise shell and 
 
 coral. 
 
 ROME. 
 
 We drive down to the station for Rome. Our 
 trunks are on the carriage piled up around the driver. 
 We have seen no express wagons in Naples. People 
 and their trunks go together. The passengers stand 
 in the crowded waiting-room near the door until a 
 
A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 
 
 33 
 
 signal is given. The door opens and then everybody 
 hurries out and aboard the train as if we were going 
 to a fire. But what a funny little engine and queer 
 little cars! The cars are no longer than some of our 
 street cars and not so good. They are lower, flatter 
 
 IX THE VATICAN. 
 
 on top, of lighter weight, and resemble somewhat our 
 best freight cars in shape and color. They are of four 
 classes for travellers. On the outside of the coaches 
 are the numbers in Roman numerals L, IL, TIT, IV. 
 
34 A LITTTE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 
 
 We j&nd our little room in the car and climb in. 
 The early morning is chilly, for although the days are 
 warm, the nights are almost cold. There is no stove, 
 nor do we see any way to heat the car. A man throws 
 in two long pieces of iron. We wonder at this when, as 
 it is, we have little enough room. As they are in the 
 way, we rest our feet on them. Ah, now all is clear, 
 for they are warm to the feet. They are filled with 
 hot water. A large dinner bell rings. A man calls 
 out ^'pronte/^ (ready) then ''partenza/^ (departure), 
 when off we go at the^ rate of thirty miles an 
 hour. We have never travelled over a better road, for 
 no one has ever built smoother and more durable 
 roads than the Italians. 
 
 But where is the conductor, or guard as he is called, 
 and how is he to go through the car when the seats ex- 
 tend from one side to the other? There is a door at 
 either end and in time the guard comes shuffling care- 
 fully along on the outside just as our conductors do on 
 open summer street cars, and holding on to a railing. 
 He is most careful, as there is danger of his being thrown 
 off and killed. He looks at our tickets and that is all. 
 We give them up after leaving- the train. 
 
 How lovely the country is as we pass through it! 
 The grape vines are festooned from tree to tree under 
 which the already green corn will soon be rustling. 
 There are groups of men, women and children in the 
 fields. All are at work either pulling weeds or using 
 heavy hoes. There is little machinery in Italy to 
 lighten the labor of the peasants. The babies, too, 
 are there all alone in their carriages off at one side out 
 of the way. 
 
A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 
 
 35 
 
 Before reaching Rome, we see something resemb- 
 Hng a large balloon turned upside down and floating 
 in a sky of melted pearls. One exclaims, "It must be 
 a giant's beehive!" Another replies, ''No, it is a pal- 
 ace of the fairies 
 up in the sky." In- 
 deed, it does seem 
 like something not 
 of earth, yet it 
 does rest on the 
 earth and is no- 
 thing less than 
 the dome of Saint 
 Peter's. The won- 
 derful lights and 
 colors in the sky, 
 and the sun shin- 
 ing upon the dome, 
 make it difficult 
 for us to believe 
 the dome to be 
 of stone, for it 
 glistens like pre- 
 cious jewels. 
 
 We arrive a t 
 the station, and 
 again go through a 
 custom house. In our travels, we find one at every 
 city we visit in Italy. If we drive into the country, 
 on our return, the officers detain us a moment at the 
 city gates to see if we have brought anything with us 
 on which we should pay duty. Should we have a 
 
 PEAS.V^'TS 
 
36 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 
 
 luncheon of sandwiches and fruit, nothing is said. 
 Should we have cake, we must pay a small sum on ac- 
 count of the sugar that is in it. Thus we discover 
 that sugar is a dutiable article. 
 
 KING VICTOR EMMANUEL III. 
 
 A BRIEF HISTORY. 
 
 The beginning of Italy was the founding of Rome, 
 753 before Christ. Rome's beginning was as a single 
 city. With slow yet steady growth, she added the 
 nearest settlements. Then she added little by little 
 
A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 37 
 
 until she included the whole of Italy. Continuing, she 
 extended her bounderies until she controlled the lands 
 bordering the Mediterranean. At one time her power 
 and wealth were so great, and her possessions so vast, 
 that she deserved her title — ^''Mistress of the World." 
 
 For no length of time has she ever know^n peace. 
 Long ago, with many civil and foreign wars, her 
 strength was at last taken away. So from being the 
 first power in the world, she is now among the lesser 
 ones. Yet, she is still known as ^The Eternal City." 
 Her population is a little less than five hundred thous- 
 and, while during the reign of Claudius Caesar it was 
 estimated at 6,945,000. During the last one hundred 
 years Rome has twice been under the reign of the 
 French. She has twice been a republic, and, four 
 times, supported by French soldiers, she has been 
 under the rule of the pope. 
 
 In 1871, Rome became the capital of United Italy, 
 under King Victor Emmanuel II. On his death Jan- 
 uary 9, 1878, he was succeeded to the throne by his 
 son Humbert I. On July 29, 1900, King Humbert 
 was at the little town of Monza near Milan, where he 
 and Queen Margherita were spending the summer. 
 He had been presenting prizes at the village school. 
 He was standing in his carriage and bowdng to the 
 people, who dearly loved him. Suddenly, an anarchist 
 broke through the Hnes. Three shots rang out and 
 Humbert fell — dying almost instantly. His only son, 
 Victor, Prince of Naples, w^as then declared king under 
 the title King Victor Emmanuel III., and now lives in 
 Rome in the palace on the Quirinal. Italy is poor 
 and suffers in her struggle to support the church, 
 state, army and navy. 
 
38 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 
 
 INDUSTRIES. 
 
 Notwithstanding the fact that Italy is poor, her con- 
 dition today is much better ihan it was thirty years 
 ago. Since then she has made such progress, more 
 than that of any other European country, there is 
 every reason to beheve that her future will beprosperous. 
 
 Italy's greatest exportation is sulphur. Indeed, 
 more sulphur is shipped from Sicily than from any 
 other part of the globe. Sicily is a large island in the 
 Mediterranean just west of the most southern point of 
 Italy. We are not likely to forget its location, when 
 we remember that Italy resembles a huge boot drawn 
 back as if in the act of giving Sicily — ^^which is shaped 
 like a foot — a good kick. However, she is not trying 
 to kick the island away; far from it, for this is one of |> 
 her valuable possessions. We have known the island 
 on account of the juicy^ yellow Sicily lemons that are 
 shipped to us. We are now to know it from the min- 
 eral sulphur, that is also a bright yellow in color. 
 
 As there are large deposits of pure sulphur, the mint- 
 ing of it is rather easy work. First, solid squares are 
 marked off, then pieces are cut out in blocks. At 
 regular distances, pillars of sulphur are left as supports 
 to the roof. Yet with all this care, many roofs fall in. 
 The place mined is usually from twenty-five to fifty 
 feet in width, and one hundred feet in length. Boys 
 from eight to ten years of age seem to have the hard- 
 est part of the work, for they carry the blocks, not 
 only to the shaft, but to the surface. When the min- 
 ers have excavated to the depth of three hundred and 
 twenty-five feet or so, water power is used when it is 
 to be had. 
 
A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 39 
 
 Another valuable mineral is Carrara marble — so 
 called from the mountains of Carrara, where it is quar- 
 ried. However, the stone is found in other parts of 
 Italy. While the choicest marbles come from Greece, 
 the next best, and the best known of all, is Carrara 
 marble, the marble of which, for hundreds of years, all 
 Italian statuary has been made. In a number of 
 studios we see and hear the chipping. The purest 
 variety is snow white. Some of the stone contains 
 such beautiful crystals that they are known by the 
 name of Carrara diamonds. Crystals and flaws so in- 
 terfere with the work of sculptors that often an exqui- 
 site statue is almost completed when a defect is dis- 
 covered that ruins it. 
 
 Carrara marble was first used in building palaces 
 andother fine houses. In fitting together the blocks 
 of marble, dishonest workmen filled in the flaws with 
 wax that was colored the shade of the stone. No one 
 knew of this until the weather injured the looks of the 
 building by loosening the wax. luo this way, so much 
 cheating was done, that at last, a contract would be 
 made on condition that the structure would be sine 
 cera, meaning ^ Without wax." And so, in this way 
 we gained our word ^ ^sincere." 
 
 Every year, Italy sends to us more than a million 
 boxes of macaroni. In one of her many factories we 
 see it made. Hard wheat grows in Southern Europe, 
 in the countries bordering the Mediterranean and in 
 other warm climates. This kind contains more gluten 
 and other rich substances than is found in soft tender 
 wheat. The flour made from the hard wheat is mixed 
 with boiling water and beaten into a thick paste or 
 
40 
 
 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY, 
 
 soft dough. While still hot it is put into a strong 
 metal cylinder. Great pressure is applied, which 
 squeezes the dough through holes in the bottom of the 
 cylinder, where revolving knives cut up the macaroni 
 into pipes three feet in length. The pipes are hung 
 over rods in warm rooms, where they soon dry. Some-" 
 
 MACARONI FACTORY, 
 
 In the foreground macaroni on poles drying. At the left two men are 
 bringing out a pole hung with macaroni. 
 
 times we see them stretched across a quiet street and 
 hanging near the ground, and often on the tops of the 
 flat roofed houses. They do not break because the 
 gluten is sticky and strong enough to support the 
 weight of the dough. 
 
 Italian macaroni is light yellow, half transparent, 
 coarse looking before cooked, elastic, and so hard that 
 
A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 41 
 
 it breaks with sharp edges like glass. When at home 
 we can tell the genuine, as it shows the bend where it 
 hung over the r®d.' In order to deceive, imitation 
 maearoaii ifei colored the^g^ame s-hade as the real. How- 
 ©Jister, it plite; does nolf hold^together when hung over a 
 ir©dyJ6o must be ;spread out-to dry. This causes a 
 -ftirttened^side. We should rememberi the differences 
 abetween tiiie two kind^ and buy the most nutritious, 
 which is^Italinn macaroni. As well as^ in large hollow 
 fc^bes, it comes in; , the form^ of ribbons, as vermicelli, 
 tbat -is squeezed through small'' holes, and is cut into a 
 nxonber ' of shapes— such as the alphabet, stars, ani- 
 malsyitozrenges, and other ianciful forms.- When mac- 
 aroni !?• cooked it swells to twice its 'original size. The 
 iancy Miapes are 'eaten in soups. The> Itahians stew 
 ^^rmiceiii and macaroni iwith either ^grated cheese or 
 rTtomatoe©.^ r '^^i ^i j^ [I.:- 
 
 A greaf advantage that Italian macaroni has over 
 
 other kinds ds' that it does not become pasty, is free 
 
 from insects crawlintg into the holes, and may be kept 
 
 any length of time 'without decaying or losing any of 
 
 its good qualities. On -this account it is a valued 
 
 article of food, especially for soldiers, explorers and 
 
 -others who go away on long expeditions. 
 
 . Di There are thirty-five species of olive trees — thirty of 
 
 MThich are cultivated in Italy. The tree is of a silvery- 
 
 :grey>t appearance, and in the distance looks feathery 
 
 EKiki (far from strong. But, in reality, it is one of the 
 
 hardies^t^ trees in existence, having been known to live 
 
 '^efevenr hundred years. It is easily started by grafting, 
 
 tbyf plariting young swelling buds, seeds, cuttings that 
 
 grow about as well as willows and by shoots that start 
 
42 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 
 
 up around the stump of a recently cut down tree. 
 The tree thrives best in a poor soil — its preference be- 
 ing limestone, and requires but little water. Any light 
 soil will answer — even clay soil that is well drained. 
 
 The bark and leaves are used as a tonic in intermit- 
 tent fever. In a dry season, the juice oozes out and 
 forms ^^olive gum." Long ago w^arriors rubbed them- 
 selves with the gum after a bath. At present, it is 
 used as a perfume. The wood is closely grained and 
 heavy. It is a light yellow or greenish brown with 
 dark markings. It makes poor fuel but fine furniture. 
 
 AVhen from five to seven years old, the trees begin 
 to be profitable. For convenience in gathering the 
 fruit, they are usually pruned to prevent their being 
 more than thirty feet high. As they grow older, the 
 crops are enormous . They may bear well every other 
 year, still in Italy a good harvest is not counted on 
 oftener than once in three or four years. First, come 
 small, starlike white blossoms in such profusion that 
 the trees look as if caught in a snow storm. Later, 
 there appear white, green or purple olives, more or less 
 oval according to the variety of tree. When large 
 enough, the unripe olives are picked and prepared for 
 the table. For several hours, they are kept under wa- 
 ter containing potash, soda or something of the kind. 
 Then they are rinsed and put into jars or bottles and 
 covered with brine. Those that come to us are treated 
 in this way. When olives are ripe, they are shaken 
 from the branches, beaten off with poles, or left to fall 
 to the ground, where they remain so long as to make 
 inferior oil. A careful olive grower has the fruit 
 picked, placed either in cloths, or baskets, and 
 
A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 43 
 
 taken to the mill, where it is ground into oil. The 
 Italians use the oil in cooking — just as we do butter 
 and lard. As they do not need all that they produce, 
 they ship great quantities of oil and fruit to us. Both 
 are better than any we receive from other countries. 
 
 More than 4500 years ago, the raising of silk worms 
 and silk weaving originated in China. This began by 
 gathering wild cocoons and preserving the eggs that 
 were laid by the butterflies after leaving the cocoons. 
 For more than two thousand years, China kept secret 
 the making of the soft, fine msiterial. 
 
 According to a story, some monks went from Con- 
 stantinople to China to learn all about the worms and 
 silk weaving. Then, they concealed some eggs in a 
 bamboo cane and returned home. As 40,000 eggs 
 weigh an ounce only, the smuggling was easily done. 
 In a short time, the eggs found their way to Sicily, 
 then up through almost every part of Italy, where are 
 seen countless number of mulberry trees. These are 
 grown for the leaves that are the food of the worms. 
 
 When ready to hatch, the tiny black worm appears 
 but a speck, surrounded by a white rim-like shell. A 
 trained eye, however, is necessary to see this. The 
 w^orms are placed on shallow trays and at once begin 
 devouring the leaves provided for them. Strangely, 
 their growth is not measured by the length of their 
 short lives, but by the number of meals they eat. This 
 is fortunate because, as all do not hatch the first day, 
 the number of meals can be so arranged as to have all 
 of the worms spinning about thirty or thirty-two days 
 later. 
 
 Every day, clean papers, with holes cut in them^ 
 
44 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 
 
 are spread out over the worms/ and on the papers fresh 
 leaves are scattered. Soon the worms crawl up to eat/ 
 Then, the papers containing leaves and worms are 
 placed on empty trays. In this way, all is kept fresh 
 and clean — a condition that is of importanoeijf j tk^ 
 best results are to be had. When not. sheddingctHeir 
 skins, which they do three or four times,^-afeeondfeg- it© 
 breed, they never lose their good appetites; i^ 
 daily they consume far more than double thek 
 weight. ^Z 
 
 When ready to spin, 'the once black worms have bet 
 come ashy white. Along its length of from three to 
 three and a half inches, there are two.^ tubes. (that con- 
 tain the golden, liquid silk. As this oozes out thro\jg]| 
 the spineret near the mouth, the head moves.Mjl^jfjfe 
 and forth while uniting these two, gossamer thl^g^ite 
 into one. The worm keeps on until jfa winds arou^ 
 itself a cocoon of silk that is nearly t,w# )tiaile^ an^^a. 
 half in length. The little peanut-shapedahou^, hm\^ 
 in three days or so, is so strong that we can ne^l tm^^j^ 
 open or bite through it. During the tW'Or (^r three 
 weeks, while living there — unless it is killed,^h)i WQXm 
 changes its form, cuts a door and comes out,9r:B:^t 
 how different; it is now a butterfly! — rov 
 
 Twenty-five years ago China was still leading tfe 
 world in manufacturing silk. Italy, at that time, was 
 doing little in this line. Now she supplies one third of 
 all that is made. During the last three 3^ears her ex- 
 ports in silk have increased from $65,000,000 to $100,- 
 000,000. ( 
 
 In other industries, Italy is fully awake. There?are 
 many large kid .glove factories. Vast njumters are 
 
A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY, 45 
 
 made in Naples, many by English firms that stamp 
 their gloves — ''Made in England." Within thirty 
 years Italy has multiplied her railway mileage by 
 three. She builds her own cars, boilers and locomo- 
 tives. She is engaged in shipbuilding at Genoa, Leg- 
 horn, Venice and Palermo. 
 
 The 32,000,000 of people within her borders are^on 
 the whole, industj:'ious. Thousands of people work in 
 southern Italy from fourteen to sixteen hours a day — ■ 
 the men receiving twelve cents and the women four cents. 
 Out of every $100 earned, $6 must go f or thesupport of 
 the army and navy. The average tax per citizen is $15. 
 
 Another drawback — Italy^s greatest is a dearth of 
 fuel. For this reason she can never hold her own 
 with other countries in the development of iron and 
 steel industries. Coal that is delivered at many of our 
 factories at $2.50 a ton costs in Italy $12.50. 
 
 However, she is not discouraged — far from it, for 
 she has learned what a wealth of power is stored up 
 in her rivers, cascades and small water falls. The 
 force here that is rushing along and tumbling down is 
 equal to the same motive power she would get if she 
 paid $100,000,000 to $200,000,000 a year for coal. It 
 is supposed that the electrical energy given out by the 
 rivers is equal to 380,000 horse power. This force is 
 being used in electrical plants that light hundreds of 
 towns and cities. 
 
 So, on the whole, Italy is making such headway that 
 no one can foresee the limit to her prosperity. 
 
 FOUNTAINS. 
 
 The first morning on waking we are disappointed 
 by the sound of a shower of rain. But the day is 
 
46 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 
 
 bright and the air so balmy that we are perplexed. 
 We go to the window and there in feathery foam is 
 the water of a fountain rising, then falling in a spray 
 like rain. We soon observe that Rome is a city of 
 
 QUEEN HELENA. 
 
 fountains. Perhaps we could say the city of fountains 
 if it were not for Damascus where there are thousands 
 and thousands of them — the water for them being 
 conducted through aqueducts built by the Romans. 
 Yet, there are so many in Rome, that when driving 
 we are never long without the dehghtful sound and 
 
A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 
 
 47 
 
 ONE OF ROME'S NUMEROUS FOUNTAINS. 
 
 sight of at least one. Many are of great interest to 
 us. We hear the roaring of Acqua Paola long before 
 we are near enough to see the torrent rushing head- 
 long and tumbling down into a large reservoir. The 
 water is pure and comes from the country thirty miles 
 distant. 
 
 We wind through narrow streets, hear the gurgl ng 
 of water, and soon are before the fountain of Trevi. 
 This looks as if an immense pile of huge rocks had 
 fallen down close to the walls of a palace. They have 
 
48 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 
 
 been here hundreds of years, and one might think that 
 they had never been anywhere else. The water gushes 
 out from under the palace into a stone basin that is so 
 large it is really a small lake. A statue of Neptune— 
 the god of the sea and other waters — is on one side in 
 his car, driving plunging, spirited horses. Men are 
 trying to hold them. Water pours from the nostrils 
 . of the horses, from the shells the men are blowing, 
 and from ever so many places in the rocks. All are 
 having a merry time sporting in the water, by which 
 they are almost covered. 
 
 It is said that if you throw a copper coin into the 
 basin of Trevi and then drink of the delicious water, 
 you will surely return to Rome. If this were true, all 
 would drink, because no one ever sees sufficient of 
 Rome to be satisfied. Perhaps, however, as we toss 
 in some coppers and take a refreshing drink, we may 
 some day come back. At least, we hope so. 
 
 STREET SCENES. 
 
 We enjoy wandering through the quaint narrow 
 streets, many of which are not wider than our alleys. 
 In these streets, there are no sidewalks whatever. 
 Sitting in the doorways are mothers combing their 
 children's hair. In the street, women are sewing or 
 cooking, while some are at stands selling fruits and veg- 
 etables. The swarms of children, brighter and more 
 active than the Neapolitans, amuse themselves just as 
 they like best. All of the streets are paved with 
 rough lava stones, which soon wear out shoes. Cob- 
 blers are mending shoes and have plenty of work to 
 keep them busy. They find it pleasant in the open air, 
 
A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 
 
 49 
 
 .where they have no shop rent to pay and where they 
 can talk with passing friends. 
 
 On one of the principal streets, there are many for- 
 eigners in plain dress, Romans in bright colors, and 
 soldiers in gay uni- _ 
 
 forms, to be seen. A 
 procession of school 
 boys out for exercise 
 may be seen in charge 
 of a priest. All wear 
 tall silk hats and dress 
 suits — and some of 
 these tots are not over 
 eight years of age. 
 They walk and act like 
 little grown-up men. 
 Students from almost 
 every country come 
 here to attend college. 
 They are dressed some- 
 what like priests, since 
 later in life they will en- 
 ter the church. French 
 and English priests 
 wear gowns of black; 
 South Americans, black 
 with blue sashes,North 
 Americans, black with red sashes; Poles, black with 
 green sashes^ Greeks, blue gowns; Germans, bright red 
 ones; Romans, black, violet or purple ;Bohemians,black 
 with chocolate sashes; Irish, black with red lappets; 
 Spaniards, black with blue cords, and so on. Each 
 nationahty has a different style of dress. 
 
 A PEASANT WOMAN. 
 
50 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 
 
 EDUCATION, RELIGION, AND CHURCHES. 
 
 Every child in Italy has the privilege of, at least, 
 some education. All cities and towns are provided 
 with schools. When children live too far away from 
 them, there are always priests that are willing to give 
 instruction. Where possible, children are compelled 
 to attend school. 
 
 As for books to read, some are so cheaply made that 
 the poorest people can afford, now and then, to buy 
 one. Where there are libraries everybody can borrow. 
 The Italians like to listen while some one reads aloud. 
 From the highest to the lowest classes, all are fond of 
 poetry. Many of the people — when suddenly called 
 upon^can with ease, quickly make rhymes and even 
 poetry. 
 
 The rehgion of Italy if Roman Catholic. The pres- 
 ent head of the Roman Catholic Church of the whole 
 world is Pope Leo XIII, who lives in the Vatican 
 palace' in Rome. 
 
 We, certainly, have never before seen so many 
 churches. They are always open, but as they have no 
 seats, we never remain long. W^e often hear the 
 musical church bells and chimes ringing out merrily. 
 If the Pope should celebrate high mass in a different 
 church every day it would take him more than a year 
 to visit every place of worship in Rome. We admire 
 but a few of the churches on the outside. Unless we 
 had been told, we should not know what they are. 
 They have flat roofs and do not look at all like our 
 churches. And yet, while there are so many, we find 
 no two alike. Of all, we prefer Saint Lawrence, with 
 its three churches in one, and Saint Paul's, which is 
 
A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 51 
 
 outside the walls of the city. Saint Paul's has 
 many pillars and floors of polished marble. After 
 coming from the warm outer air, the sight of so much 
 marble is cool and refreshing. High up on the walls, 
 near the ceiling, are rows of large mosaic portraits of 
 the popes. In one portrait the pupil of each eye is a 
 single diamond, larger that any one would ever think 
 of wearing in a ring. The cloister, or courtyard of 
 Saint Paul's is, without doubt, the most beautiful one 
 in existence. 
 
 Of course, one of the first things to do is to visit 
 Saint Peter's. This is the largest, the most imposing, 
 and to many the most beautiful church in the entire 
 world. We w^alk up the long broad flight of steps that 
 we believe must be nearly a hundred in number and a 
 block in length. At the door, the heavy leather cur- 
 tain is lifted, and we pause just on the inside. 
 
 We have seldom felt so impressed. For a minute, 
 we stand in silence, for never before have we been so 
 awed at the work of man. Afterwards, we learn that 
 this awe is felt by all that come to Saint Peter's for 
 the first time. It is so much larger than we had ever 
 thought possible. A number of other churches could 
 be placed inside and yet seem but toys. People at the 
 opposite end of the nave are so far away that they 
 seem to us like dwarfs. If we should shout our loud- 
 est, we could not make them hear. If we should wave 
 our handkerchiefs it is doubtful if they could be seen. 
 There are so many large pillars supporting the ceiling, 
 that an active, wide-awake boy could play hide and 
 seek among them the whole day long without being 
 caught. However, no one when here feels like play- 
 
52 
 
 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 
 
 m 
 
A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 
 
 53 
 
 VATICAN PALACE. 
 
 ing. Saint Peter's is so large that it has a chill climate 
 of its own, and a singular one it is, the temperature 
 inside the church being always the same, day after 
 day, winter and summer, year after year. 
 
 The Vatican palace, where the Pope lives, is a part 
 of Saint Peter's. In this palace, there are eleven 
 thousand rooms — not one of which is small. We 
 walk through a long hall, a mile in length, containing 
 marble statuary. Besides, there are several other 
 rooms filled with statuary. Although it is difficult to 
 believe, there is more statuary in the Vatican than is 
 to be found in all of the rest of the world put together. 
 We visit the mosaic factory and learn how mosaic pic- 
 
54 
 
 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 
 
 tures are made. We enjoy this intensely, for we have 
 seen in Saint Peter's a number of mosaic pictures, 
 each one of which would require forty years of a man's 
 life just to make a copy. j 
 
 i'OPE LEO XIII. 
 
 In other rooms, we see some of the finest paintings, 
 frescoes, and tapestries that have ever been made. 
 We observe how much the grown people enjoy all 
 these things for which Italy above all other countries 
 is noted. And we suppose that we too shall under- 
 
A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 55 
 
 stand them when we grow older. There is so much to 
 be seen and the building is so large that when we go 
 from one end to the other, we always drive. Other- 
 wise, we should be too tired for any further sight- 
 seeing. 
 
 THE POPE'S JUBILEE. 
 
 We are in Rome in time for the Pope's Jubilee. 
 Sixty thousand tickets have been issued and still 
 Saint Peter's is not crowded. The movement of the 
 feet on the marble floor, and the murmur of the vast 
 number of voices, sound like the roar of the sea. 
 Musicians, standing in high balconies over the great 
 central door, hold trumpets that are longer than them- 
 selves. The famous bell, used upon certain occasions 
 only, peals forth; the trumpeters blow long blasts; the 
 red curtains of a side chapel are drawn aside — for now 
 enters the magnificent procession of soldiers, guards, 
 priests, and cardinals accompanying the Pope. 
 
 Pope Leo — dressed in white and wearing the triple 
 crown, is borne in a richly decorated chair of red and 
 gilt that is carried above the heads of the people, 
 where every one may see him. On each side, there 
 walks a man carrying a large fan of ostrich feathers. 
 The Pope's face, on account of a recent sickness from 
 which he has not fully recovered , is almost as color- 
 less as the pale ivory tinted fans. One almost forgets 
 his plain features because of his kind expression. Al- 
 though he is almost ninety-three years of age, his 
 bright brown eyes sparkle in a manner we do not often 
 see in those of young people. His slender hands, as 
 delicate and shapely as a woman's, are partly con- 
 cealed by long white mitts reaching high upon the 
 
56 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 
 
 arm. On a finger, a diamond sparkles. His crown 
 seems heavy and this he frequently adjusts as if to 
 ease the discomfort it causes. Either one hand or 
 the other is in constant use as he slowly and rever- 
 ently blesses the people. At times, one hand hangs 
 down at rest over the arm of the chair. His dainty, 
 frail form is in marked contrast to his strong will, 
 clear foresight, and rare executive ability. 
 
 Slowly he approaches, passes on and out of sight up 
 to the high altar in the farther end of the church, 
 where mass is celebrated. The faint odor of incense, 
 the singing in the far-away choir and the broken 
 words of chanting, are about all the sounds that reach 
 us in this vast cathedral. Finally, the tinkling of a 
 bell announces that all is over. At last, the grand 
 procession again comes in view, moving as slowly as 
 before. 
 
 By this time the Pope seems affected by the heat, 
 that has caused many to faint, for his face is flushed 
 and darkened. He passes on and into the chapel 
 through which he entered. The curtains are drawn 
 together and the great multitude throngs out. We 
 hope that the Pope may live to celebrate his twenty- 
 fifth anniversary, and that we may be fortunate 
 enough to witness the magnificent spectacle. 
 
 FESTAS. 
 
 There are so many festas, or church holidays, that 
 to name and describe them would require more space 
 than we have in the whole Little Journey to Italy. 
 Of the great holidays, there are perhaps seventy, be- 
 sides many lesser ones. They are usually attended 
 
A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 57 
 
 with religious exercises, processions, illuminations, 
 ringing of bells, and afterwards good things to eat. 
 A few of the festas are the Carnival, Lent, Good Fri- 
 day, Palm Sunday, Easter, the Pope^s Jubilee and 
 Christmas. 
 
 Christmas in Italy, as in our country, begins with 
 Christmas Eve. Hundreds, if not thousands of bells 
 are ringing. Inside the churches, the pillars are cov- 
 ered with red cotton cloth and gayly decorated. In 
 the side chapels, wax candles twinkle. The high altar 
 is adorned with flowers. The tall, polished silver 
 candle- sticks gleam under brilliant lights. At nine 
 o'clock, after having spent the day in fasting, the 
 Pope celebrates high mass. Mass is said too, in all 
 the churches. 
 
 During the Christmas season, thousands of people 
 climb the famous one hundred and twenty-four steps 
 leading up to the church, to witness this scene. From 
 Christmas Day until January 6, on every afternoon 
 from three to four o'clock, the crowd is greatest. 
 Little children about five years of age make short 
 speeches to the Christ child, or speak dialogues before 
 it. Every one wants to see and hear them. They re- 
 cite sweetly and naturally. Sometimes a little one 
 takes a notion not to speak and refuses firmly, no 
 matter how much its mother may coax. However, 
 this stubbornness is counted upon, and another child 
 is always present who is trained and ready to take the 
 other's place. 
 
 Suddenly, on the midnight of Christmas Eve, all 
 the bells in Rome begin pealing forth merrily. In the 
 principal churches, mass is said and there is unusually 
 
58 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 
 
 fine singing to be heard. The organist plays his best. 
 A bell tinkles, and the perfume of incense fills the air. 
 
 Processions of priests go through the streets bearing 
 a cross, a banner, and singing psalms. They are carry- 
 ing the sacrament to the sick. Not one sick person in 
 the whole parish is forgotten. As the priests pass along, 
 men on the sidewalk lift their hats, and others bow low 
 down on the pavement out of reverence to the sacra- 
 ment. Everybody goes to mass on Christmas Day to 
 some small church near home. In this way t he Romans 
 can worship in quiet, and so avoid the many visitors 
 walking around in the large churches. 
 
 The children receive presents of all kinds, and so 
 do the grown people. There are crowds of people in 
 the streets, all dressed in their best. They laugh, 
 talk and are quite merry. Venders sell cigars, pump- 
 kin seeds, chestnuts, oranges, and round cakes with 
 holes in the middle, strung on poles. There are pic- 
 tures of the saints. Madonna and child, wax dolls of 
 the child, and other things for sale. On Christmas 
 and New Years all the servants of our friends call 
 upon us to offer their good wishes. We are expected, 
 in return, to make them gifts of money. 
 
 Epiphany Eve is indeed a noisy and singular holi- 
 day. This celebrates the festival of Bejaiia, which is 
 held on a certain square in Rome. The square is cov- 
 ered with well-lighted booths containing toys for sale. 
 As on our Fourth of July, everyone tries to make as 
 much noise as possible. No one speaks, because no 
 one can hear. Men, as well as boys, blow shrill whis- 
 tles, deafening trumpets, beat drums, thump tambor- 
 ines, clack rattles, jingle chains and ring bells. There 
 
A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 59 
 
 is shouting, laughing, and every kind of noise they can 
 think of to swell the sound and increase the fun. 
 
 Instead of jolly Santa Claus, the Italians have Be- 
 jana. She is a ^'tall, dark woman, ugly and rather 
 terrible.^' She is supposed to come down a chimney 
 ringing a bell. She has pretty toys that she puts into 
 the stockings of the good children, and bags of ashes 
 for the bad ones. However, she usually relents and 
 gives pretty presents to all. On Epiphany Eve, boys 
 represent Befana. They blacken their faces, dress like 
 old women and wear grotesque pointed caps. In one 
 hand they carry a cane or rod, and in the other a lan- 
 tern. At their feet, there are baskets of toys, fruits, 
 and candies. Around their necks, there hang stock- 
 ings filled with presents. Those for the good httle 
 ones have toys, fruits and letters expressing good 
 wishes. In stockings for the naughty children, there 
 are bags of ashes and scolding, threatening letters. 
 
 QAHES. 
 
 Romans play a number of unusual games. Often, 
 we see groups of men throwing up their hands and 
 shouting. They seem excited as if they were quarrel- 
 ling. But this is not so at all. They are playing 
 morro. This they learned from the Greeks, who had 
 learned it from the Egyptians. How do we know 
 this? Today when people go down into the tombs at 
 Thebes, they see paintings on the walls of men playing 
 morro. This painting was done four thousand years 
 ago. Two men play the game. They throw up their 
 hands, sometimes holding up their thumbs, and as 
 many fingers as they wish. Each man knows how 
 
60 
 
 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 
 
 many he himself holds up. He must guess the num- 
 ber which his companion holds up and quickly call out 
 the entire number of the four hands. This makes the 
 players close observers and quick thinkers. Children, 
 as well as men, play morro. 
 
 A GENOESE MONK. 
 
 Blind Cat is usually played in the Piazza del Popolo, 
 (square of the people), the most imposing square of 
 Rome. In the center is a fountain adorned by four 
 
A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 61 
 
 lions of Egyptian granite — with water pouring from 
 their mouths. When Bhnd Cat is to be played, a col- 
 lection is taken up from the crowd in the square,which 
 is greatest on moonlight nights in August. This money 
 is to be used as the prize in the game. The players 
 are blindfolded, turned around three times, then started 
 off towards a certain point. The one who succeeds in 
 reaching the goal receives the money. However, the 
 players often become confused at what the people say. 
 One may be going in the right direction, then turn and 
 walk back to suddenly strike his head against a lion's 
 mouth and be covered with water. Another may 
 tumble into the fountain and get a ducking. These 
 mistakes afford much amusement to the light hearted, 
 pleasure loving Italians. 
 
 Formerly, there were bull fights, bull baiting, buffalo 
 racing, horse racing, tournaments, joustings, and hunt- 
 ing. Almost all of these sports were cruel. 
 
 The most general and popular game throughout 
 Italy is the lottery. This unfortunate habit was be- 
 gun long years ago, long before the discovery of Amer- 
 ica. Many Italians spend all the money that can be 
 spared in buying tickets. Many go hungry in order to 
 gamble. Therefore, the lottery is a great curse. It is 
 under the control of the government, which receives 
 from it a large revenue. 
 
 BIRDS AND ANIMALS. 
 
 Birds of many kinds, sizes, and variety of plumage 
 are found in great numbers in Italy. There are 
 herons, tame geese, wild geese, ducks, swallows, pig- 
 eons, quail, wood- cock, and others. Even such de- 
 
62 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 
 
 lightful songsters as the thrush, lark, and nightingale 
 are netted in such number that they are sold in the 
 markets of Rome for food. Those who want other 
 game, hunt the hare, rabbit, roebuck and wild boar. 
 
 Fine horses are bred on the Campagna near Rome 
 and are branded on the thigh with the initials or coro- 
 net of the owner. They run wild until three years old, 
 when they are caught and broken. They have such 
 hard, tough hoofs that the fore feet are but lightly 
 shod, and the hind ones not at all. They never slip,as 
 do all other horses in going over the rough stone streets 
 leading up and down — not the seven — but the nine 
 hills of Rome. 
 
 On the Campagna are also bred the strong, silvery 
 grey cattle of great size, whose coats shine like satin. 
 They have mild brown eyes, and horns spreading five 
 and six feet from tip to tip. These are the descend- 
 ants of the white cattle of which Virgil writes. 
 
 About four hundred years ago, buffaloes were 
 brought from other lands. They are now found all 
 over Italy and especially in the country south of Rome. 
 They are made to work, although they are half wild^ 
 sullen and dangerous. ^ Pens are frequently found on 
 the Campagna where people can run when chased by 
 buffaloes. As they are stronger than oxen, they do 
 the hardest work. They are driven with goads through 
 the Pontine Marshes in order that they may tear up 
 with their feet and horns the long grasses and weeds. 
 
 Of course, in Italy there are many sheep and goats. 
 Instead of being driven, the sheep follow their shep- 
 herds. The shepherd's dog is a large fierce Bernard. 
 He will not permit a stranger to come near the sheep 
 during the shepherd's absence. 
 
A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 63 
 
 THE OBELISKS. 
 
 In our daily drives, we pass by great obelisks that 
 are older, and yet better preserved than the city of 
 Rome itself . They are in good condition for the reason 
 that granite is harder and more durable than Italian 
 stone and marble. By order of the Pharoahs, they 
 were made — always in pairs — the two obelisks being 
 exactly alike. A handsome one stands in Central 
 Park in New York City. The mate still remains where 
 it was first placed in a once famous town near Cairo. 
 
 Nearly every one of the many obelisks — made in 
 Egypt, now adorns the squares of Rome. They were 
 brought to Rome at great expense and work. Some 
 of them were in existence during the time of Moses. 
 When Joseph was sold and taken down into Egypt, he 
 saw these very obelisks. Near them, without doubt, 
 Joseph, Mary and Jesus rested on their flight into 
 Egppt. And to think that today even we can touch 
 these same great monuments. We know numberless 
 tales about them, both beautiful and sad. It is doubt- 
 ful if there are any true stories of inanimate objects 
 that are more interesting, thrilling and unique, than 
 those about these Egyptian obelisks. 
 
 THE APPIAN WAY. 
 
 We drive through the ancient gateway out upon the 
 Appian Way in the rich warm sunshine— just as all the 
 old Romans did. Our carriage wheels rattle over some 
 of the very stones that have been here for nearly 
 seventeen hundred years, for this most magnificent of 
 all roads was begun 312 years before Christ was born. 
 As far as we drive, we see the road is in a line which 
 
64 
 
 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 
 
 ANCIENT GATEWAY 
 
 seems to end at the top of the hill, the point where 
 the apostle Paul had his first view of Rome. Beyond 
 the hill, the road continued across the Pontine Marshes 
 toPadua,and later extended to Brundusium. Through- 
 out its length it was roughly paved with large square 
 stones. 
 
 We believe that many of the stones on the road 
 near Rome must have been taken away for some other 
 purpose, because they were two heavy and too large to 
 have been lost. They were large enough to be used 
 
A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 
 
 65 
 
 for building purposes, no plaster being needed to hold 
 them together. As all these lava stones are darker in 
 color than any we have noticed in Rome, it puzzles us 
 to know what has become of the missing ones. 
 
 The Appian Way was bordered on each side, not by 
 trees, but by fam- 
 ily tombs. Al- 
 though these 
 tombs are in ruins, 
 we see that some 
 are of brick faced 
 withmarble,others 
 of stone or marble 
 having various 
 shapes and styles. 
 On a number of 
 tombs, we read the 
 names of great 
 men whose ashes 
 were deposited in 
 urns placed inside 
 the tombs. From 
 the simple style 
 of statue leaning, 
 sittingorstanding, 
 the size varies to 
 
 that of the historic round tomb of the wealthy Cecelia 
 Met alia. 
 
 This tomb, which is seventy feet across the top, is so 
 large that it was once used as a fort garrisoned by 
 hundreds of soldiers. The lower part became a dung- 
 eon keep. Now, bushes and ivy are growhig in such 
 
 TO>[BOF CECELIA METALLA, AI'I'lA 
 
 RO.Mi:. 
 
66 
 
 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 
 
 SENECA'S TOMB. APPIAN WAY, ROME. 
 
 profusion in its crevices that the tomb is festooned in 
 green. Trees, too, are flourishing in the debris. Al- 
 most all of the marble facing the square foundation of 
 the tomb is gone. It was this very missing part which 
 was used in constructing the fountain of Trevi which 
 we have seen in Rome. As not a single stone was 
 quarried for the great church of St. Peter's, the ones 
 which were not taken from other buildings, may per- 
 haps have been brought from these tombs along the 
 Appian Way. 
 
 For a short distance before reaching the tomb of 
 Cecelia Metalla, we have been jolting over rough stones 
 through a narrow street that is enclosed by brick plas- 
 tered walls so high that we can not see over them. 
 
A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 67 
 
 And, yet, this was once the broad road, now so 
 changed, that except for the tombs is hardly to be 
 recognized. We soon pass beyond the walls, where 
 opens to us the most beautiful part of the Appian 
 Way, We see broken aqueducts, ruinous castles, 
 tumble-down villages, and further on the desolate 
 Campagna as far as the Sabine and Alban mountains 
 which shut off the view of the ocean. Near the road- 
 side are the ruins of an ancient church. Although al- 
 most every building here is in a ruinous state, it is 
 softened and beautified by vines, shrubbery and trees. 
 The small houses that are built on the edges of the 
 street are neither homelike nor comfortable looking. 
 The doors are built in the back of the houses, there 
 are none whatever in front, and the lower windows are 
 iron grated. Scattered along the way are wine shops 
 and out of door booths. Some of the booths have 
 their side walls and roofs covered with corn stalks. 
 Others have their rough frame-work hidden by a 
 luxurious growth of grape vines. On a hill, which is 
 the ruins of a tomb, is a modern house surrounded by 
 gardens, vineyards, ohve trees, and forest trees, all of 
 which have their roots under tombs. 
 
 THE CATACOHBS. 
 
 At the time when the Romans burned their dead 
 and built these magnificent tombs in which the ashes 
 were preserved, the Christians in secret buried their 
 dead, thousands of them being martyrs, under the 
 earth with no monuments above to mark their resting 
 places. At first, these burials took place in the yards 
 of relatives. Afterwards, however, the Christians 
 
68 
 
 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 
 
 chose large, cemeteries which are the Catacombs named 
 for the men who began them. They He outside the 
 walls of the city, forty in number, covering six hun- 
 dred and fifteen acres of ground. The passages in 
 them, from eighteen inches to four feet in width, are 
 so many that if they were straightened into a single 
 
 AQUEDUCT OF CLAUDIAX. ROME. 
 
 line, the line would extend five hundred and forty-five 
 miles — little less than the length of Italy. 
 
 Just off the Appian Way, we enter a little house, 
 buy tickets, receive some little wax tapers and then 
 with the monk Sebastian as guide, start for the Cata- 
 combs of Saint Calixtus. Our walk from the carriage, 
 in what seems to be a field of ordinary appearance, 
 has not taken five minutes. When our tapers are 
 lighted, we descend a crude staircase to a narrow 
 
A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 69 
 
 place under the earth that would be utter darkness if 
 it were not for our faint lights. We walk one behind 
 another taking care to keep up with Sebastian. Oc- 
 casionally, he pauses before the niches cut into the 
 soft rock one above another, on the order of book- 
 shelves. In each of these niches from one to four or 
 five bodies were buried many long years ago. Sebas- 
 tian calls our attention to a niche that will hold all of 
 us. He laughs, picks up the marble slab that fits into 
 it and tells us that if we want to be buried here, he 
 will put up the slab and seal us in. 
 
 THE BATHS OF CARACALLA. 
 
 By the side of the Appian Way, exactly one hun- 
 dred years before it was begun, Caracalla began to 
 build his luxurious baths. These baths, including the 
 grounds for games and sports, enclosed space that was 
 a mile in circumference. There were sixteen hundred 
 marble seats for the sixteen hundred men that could 
 be accommodated at the same time. There were 
 rooms of different degrees of heat. Into the marble 
 basins in the warm and hot rooms, there poured con- 
 tinually, through large pipes having massive silver 
 mouths, great streams of hot water. Every possible 
 luxury was here. As the men reclined in the baths, 
 poets recited their verses, statesmen and politicians 
 discussed government affairs. And so, thousands 
 daily wasted many hours in this, and in other Roman 
 baths, in luxurious idleness. By* this manner of liv- 
 ing, the men were weakened in body and mind until 
 it became the beginning of the decline that led to the 
 fall of Rome. 
 
70 
 
 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 
 
 NEAR VIEW OF THE COLISEUM, ROME. 
 
 THE COLISEUM. 
 
 One of the most imposing buildings, the largest 
 theater that has ever been built, is the Coliseum. This 
 structure of brick and stone, which seated 87,000 
 people, was finished by Titus in the year 80. During 
 the first one hundred days after its dedication, there 
 were battles between cranes and dwarfs, gladiatorial 
 combats, in which even women took part, naval bat- 
 tles, and the slaying of five thousand animals. In 
 time, the Coliseum became a fortress, was captured, 
 and later was again used as a place for sports by the 
 introduction of bull fights. An emperor celebrated 
 his birthday by having the arena represent a forest, 
 
A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 71 
 
 and by killing one thousand animals. Another em- 
 peror himself fought as a gladiator. 
 
 Horrible as these cruel sports were, even far worse 
 ones took place, because, for amusement, Christians 
 without number were torn to pieces by wild beasts. 
 Sometimes, the lions and bears refused to attack these 
 human beings, who then met with more awful deaths, 
 either by slow torture that lasted several days, or by 
 a quicker release from their sufferings by being shut 
 up in a brass bull and roasted alive. 
 
 Like other ancient buildings in Rome, the Coliseum 
 is in ruins. As the materials in it were valuable, they 
 were coveted by a certain prince who desired to build 
 a palace. So, he asked and received unwilling per- 
 mission from his uncle, the pope, to have all the stone 
 and marble that he could take away in a day of twelve 
 hours. Then he sent four thousand men, who tore 
 down and hauled away thousands of wagon loads. 
 Thus began the great destruction. Later, a number 
 of the finest palaces that we now see in Rome were 
 built of materials taken from here. Although so much 
 plundering was done, one third of the Cohseum yet re- 
 mains standing. It is still so large and impressive 
 that the interest is shared between this structure and 
 Saint Peter's, the two most fascinating and imposing 
 buildings in all Rome. 
 
 We go into the arena, look over it, up and over the 
 rows of seats that rise high in the heavens, and down 
 into the cells where the wild animals were kept. We 
 climb to the top, a dizzy height, and gaze over the 
 wondrous Eternal City. We never tire of coming to 
 the Coliseum, although it always recalls pictures of 
 
72 
 
 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 
 
 the fearful scenes of the past. We see it by moon- 
 hght, sit in the arena while Bengal lights in clouds 
 float over the great tiers of seats. Another time, we 
 remain outside in the carriage during an illumination. 
 
 MAMMERTINE PRISON 
 
 From all the arched windows, the lights pour out like 
 flames until the whole gigantic ruin seems a great and 
 awful fire. 
 
 Before leaving Rome, we visit hundreds of palaces, 
 churches and other buildings. We plainly see that 
 the buildings which are round with no rough edges, 
 except where intentionally injured, have worn better 
 than square or oblong ones. We climb high above 
 
A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 73 
 
 the ground to the top of the dome of Saint Peter's. We go 
 down into the Mammertine prison, the cold dungeon hewn 
 out of the sohd rock where Peter and Paul were im- 
 prisoned, and into underground churches where there 
 is not a ray of light from above. We are told that it 
 takes forty years to see and know Rome thoroughly, 
 and it must be true. What we have seen only makes 
 us wish for a longer stay. Yet, we must hasten on to 
 
 FLORENCE. 
 
 Florence, ^^The beautiful,'' is well named. It is be- 
 lieved, by many, to be the most beautiful city in the 
 world. During the winter season, the weather is se- 
 vere, changeable, and trying on account of the cold 
 winds which sweep down from the snow covered Apen- 
 nines. The summers are warm, although healthful. 
 Because of the peculiar climate the doctors say that 
 they do not see how anyone can live through the win- 
 ter in Florence and how in the summer anyone can 
 ever die there. 
 
 We live on the Arno, where we like to watch the 
 curved bridges with open arches, and the people cross- 
 ing them. Early in the week, huge covered wagons, 
 drawn by the silvery grey oxen, come from the couu- 
 try into the city for laundry. On Friday, the same 
 procession again creeps over the bridges with the now 
 clean and fresh clothes. Florence lies on both banks 
 of the Arno, joined by six picturesque bridges. All 
 of them are old. One of them is as strong as it ever 
 was, although it was built over five hundred years 
 ago. And over this very bridge Columbus may have 
 walked. As we remember, Columbus was born near 
 
74 
 
 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 
 
 Genoa, and as many people were attracted to Flor- 
 ence, who knows but what he was here and saw other 
 things that we, too, see. On the outside of the bridge, 
 looking like bird cages, there hang irregular Httle 
 shops containing silver jewelry. 
 
 COLU^lBUS. 
 
 Florence is filled to overflowing with the choicest 
 works of art that the whole world has to offer. The 
 campanile, hly of the A^no, is the most beautiful tower 
 that has ever been built. Hundreds of years ago, 
 Dante, who was born in Florence, gave Italy its classic 
 
A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 75 
 
 language. The Florentines have always believed that 
 they have been superior to all other Italians and as a 
 proof will mention the large number of great people 
 who have lived in their city. At any rate, never in 
 any one place have so many great painters been born 
 as in Florence. We go through the homes of Michel 
 Angelo, Savonarola, the priest, and others. Savona- 
 rola's chair, that is still in the cell he occupied, is quite 
 comfortable. The chair owned by Michel Angelo 
 and handed down from his grandfather is as uncom- 
 fortable as any to be found. 
 
 A certain man, having great wealth and fine taste, 
 collected the choicest pictures and statues which he 
 could buy. He ruled like a king and lived in great 
 splendor. He drew to his court the greatest painters, 
 writers, scholars, men of science and culture of the 
 age, and yet he was not a king. Although this was 
 before the discovery of America, we have the great 
 privilege of seeing these pictures and statues, as well 
 as do thousands of other people. We see them at our 
 leisure, which is more than the people did in those 
 troublesome times of old. 
 
 During the many wars in those days, the palaces 
 were fortresses. Some of them were so close together 
 that chains w^ere thrown from the top of one to an- 
 other. Over these chains, soldiers passed in order to 
 defend the palace that was most strongly attacked. 
 Of the thirty-nine palaces in Florence worth seeing, 
 the Pitti Palace is the most imposing not only in all 
 Italy but in the whole world. Magnificent as the 
 building itself is, its main beauty is the picture gal- 
 lery on the upper floor. The Ufizzi is another picture 
 
76 
 
 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 
 
 gallery on the other side of the Arno. The two pal- 
 aces, connected by a covered passage, which is the 
 second story of the bridge, is also full of pictures. 
 
 BAPTISTRY. 
 
 These three together are considered the crowning glory 
 of the entire world. 
 
 Another unique building, the Baptistry, attracts 
 much attention. Its large doors are of raised pictures 
 
A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 77 
 
 in bronze. Upon one set of double doors, a man worked 
 for twenty years before they were finished. These 
 pictures are of Bible scenes and so beautiful that 
 Michel Angelo said they were fit entrances into paradise. 
 
 In this Baptistry, every child that is born in Flor- 
 ence is baptised. This religious exercise is performed 
 when the baby is but a few days old. When the pa- 
 rents are too poor to buy a suitable dress they either 
 rent or borrow the prettiest one to be had. The boy 
 wears a red ribbon on his dress, and the girl a blue 
 one, which is the madonna's color. There is great re- 
 joicing, which is followed by a feast at home. The 
 Italian babies are loved dearly. Whenever one is 
 given up, it is usually because the parents are too poor 
 to provide for it. It is seldom that one is utterly 
 abandoned. The child may be left at the foundling 
 hospital with a ribbon of some color other than blue 
 or red. This ribbon is carefully kept. Later when 
 the mother comes with a piece exactly like it, and the 
 cut edges match, the people at the asylum know that 
 the baby is hers and so let her take it away. Some- 
 times so many years pass that the baby has become a 
 large child before the mother comes for it. Sometimes 
 a coin is cut into a certain shape and left with the 
 baby. When the mother shows the other part, if the 
 two fit together, this is proof that the baby is hers. 
 While the mother misses her baby, she knows that 
 while it is in the hospital, it receives good care and 
 food. 
 
 On the outside, the fine large hospital is decorated 
 with lovely porcelain babies. They are dressed in 
 swaddling clothes exactly as the Italian babies are 
 
78 
 
 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 
 
 dressed today. As the hospital was built several hun- 
 dred years ago, we see that the style for the dress of a 
 baby does not often change. 
 
 We go to a certain market and find nothing except 
 hats for sale. We have never seen so many together. 
 
 A CHARCOAL GIRL. 
 
 For miles around Florence they are made by hand and 
 brought here for sale. Some are of the fine Florentine 
 straws that we pay so much for at home. They are 
 cheap here and so pretty that we must have some. 
 
A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 79 
 
 On another day this market place is completely 
 filled with fragrant roses and other flowers for sale. 
 Such masses of blossoms are seldom seen elsewhere. 
 Large as the market is^ there is not room enough for 
 all the flowers, for more are seen on palace steps and 
 in other places. We see, in a certain square, a solid 
 circle of rose petals twelve or fourteen feet in diame- 
 ter and several feet in height. This covers the spot 
 where Savonarola died , for this is the anniversary of 
 his martyrdom. 
 
 In May, on a special holiday, we see on every street 
 and corner crickets or grasshoppers for sale. The tiny 
 wooden cage, holding one captive only, is but two by 
 three inches in size. Between the bars, there is a bit 
 of lettuce for food. This custom is an old one and is 
 connected with the prospect of crops. On the Satur- 
 day before Easter, in front of the cathedral, a chariot 
 is driven up that is heaped with fireworks. At noon, 
 a dove descends along a string from the high altar, 
 touches off the fireworks, and returns to that altar. If 
 the dove has wavered, the coming crops are supposed 
 to be more or less of a failure. Should the dove go 
 directly to the fireworks, touch them off and return 
 without delay , there may be expected an abundant 
 harvest. Thousands of peasants are present eagerly 
 watching the movements of the dove. They believe 
 that according to its actions, the harvests will be 
 either bad or good. All the fireworks have not gone 
 off, so the remaining ones are taken to another place 
 and sent up. 
 
 Pisa, now a quiet town of less than thirty thousand 
 souls, was once an important, thriving city. We go 
 there to spend the day. 
 
80 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 
 
 The Leaning Tower is far more interesting than our 
 geographies represent it. On chmbing it, we are al- 
 most afraid it will fall. It leans so much that it 
 makes us dizzy. Both the tower and the cathedral 
 are of pure white marble. But the cathedral has 
 stripes of colored marble. Inside the cathedral, our 
 attention is called to a bronze lamp that is hanging on 
 a wire suspended from the ceiling. The ceiling is so 
 high that the lamp is always swaying slightly. It 
 was this same lamp which gave Galileo the idea of the 
 pendulum. 
 
 VENICE— THE DREAM CITY. 
 
 From Florence we take a train, and, after riding for 
 a few hours, we get out at a station that is much like 
 others in Italy. For the last two miles and a half 
 there has been a stretch of water reaching almost to 
 the railroad ties. 
 
 We walk through the station to the street, but not 
 a carriage is in sight, neither is there any land to be 
 seen. Before us there is nothing except dark water, 
 queer looking boats, and crowds of people standing on 
 the small landing. All the boats are painted black, 
 and some have hearse-like coverings. There is much 
 shouting and hotel runners are numerous. 
 
 We get into a long, narrow boat that is called a 
 gondola. The gondolier has but one oar, and stands 
 back of us,where we do not see him as we go forward. 
 Skilfully he takes us out of the mass of boats wedged 
 tightly together, and soon we are gliding rapidly along 
 the Grand Canal. On either side houses and palaces 
 of stone or marble rise abruptly from the water. They 
 
A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 
 
 8i 
 
 :r?« 
 
 a i l! #' i a i^ /^ 
 
 GONDOLA. 
 
 look as if they were floating on its surface. As we 
 skim along, we are now in deep shadow, then in bright 
 light. The wavering reflections cast long broken lines 
 on the slightly ruffled waters^ There is nothing but 
 water and houses. There is no sound save the swish 
 of water against them, the thump of the gondola as it 
 rises and falls on the water ,^ and the occasional cry of 
 a gondolier. 
 
 The gondola rubs up against the door of our hotel 
 and stops. There is not the tiniest bit of ground, so 
 
82 
 
 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITAIiY, 
 
 we step directly from the gondola into the hotel. We 
 take rooms in an upper story, as they are dryer than 
 the lower ones, and, therefore, more desirable. The 
 damp, air of Venice is bad for people troubled with 
 rheumatism, but fine for those having catarrh. There 
 
 STREET IN VENICE. 
 
 is no dust to get into our lungs or blow over our 
 clothes. The quiet of Venice makes it ideal for nervous 
 people. One almost forgets that there are such things 
 as the rattle of wheels and the noise of machinery. 
 
A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 83 
 
 LOCATION AND DESCRIPTION. 
 
 Venice is two miles and a half from the mainland. 
 It was • once a group of one hundred and seventeen 
 islands. Into these, piles were driven, and upon them 
 Venice was built. There are one hundred and fifty 
 canals as streets, and so one goes in different kinds of 
 boats from place to place. These canals are crossed 
 by three hundred and seventy-eight high, arched, stone 
 bridges. And yet there are a number of real streets 
 that were built and paved with asphalt, brick, or stone. 
 
 The materials for the streets, fifteen thousand houses, 
 palaces, towers, and churches were brought in boats 
 from the land. The circumference of Venice is six 
 and a half miles. Surrounding it, is a chain of strong 
 forts. I ormerly, thrilling events occurred near these 
 forts that are not now needed in defense. 
 
 It was in the fifteenth century that Venice was im- 
 mensely wealthy, flourishing, and at the height of her 
 glory. At that time the population wa3 two hundred 
 thousand. Now, it is less than one hundred and 
 thirty thousand. Naturally, this being the case, 
 there are many houses that are not occupied. 
 Venice is the largest and perhaps the only city in the 
 world that never erects a new building. 
 
 Of plant and animal Hfe there is almost none. There 
 are, of course, birds, because they can fly from land, 
 and return or not as they please. There are vines and 
 potted plants, but not a great many trees. There is 
 not a single horse or cow in all the city. The largest 
 animal is a dog. On the outside of a certain church, 
 there are strange life sized decorations of ever so many 
 different animals. Among them are sheep and camels. 
 
84 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 
 
 THK RIALTO BRIDGE. 
 
 Some people live and die in Venice without ever going 
 far on the mainland — and so never see many animals. 
 A circus is unknown in this city, yet there are theaters, 
 one of which seats three thousand people. Children 
 here swim like ducks. If a mother is afraid that her 
 small boy will be drowned, she can sit at the front 
 door and hold one end of a strap that is tied to him. 
 In this way, he can paddle around and learn to swim 
 in perfect safety. 
 
 The sea water cannot be used for drinking and cook- 
 ing because of the minerals it contains. In 1890, water 
 was piped from the land. There are wells besides, 
 
A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 85 
 
 where women may be seen drawing water. They 
 carry it away in copper buckets hanging from a yoke 
 on their shoulders. Two buckets are used for balance, 
 although they are large and heavy. Here, as in many 
 parts of the eastern hemisphere where water is to be 
 carried, it is usually done by women and girls. Hard 
 work it is, too. Boats come from the land laden with 
 wood, charcoal, vegetables, fruits and wine. Fisher 
 boats from the sea supply the fish markets. Some of 
 the coal used is from the United States. 
 
 We seldom see a stone mason or a carpenter, as 
 there is little to do besides making repairs. In Venice 
 there are factories where the finest lace is made, and 
 others where beautifully colored glass in dainty shapes 
 is moulded or blown. The Venetian lace and glass are 
 celebrated throughout the world, as are also its carved 
 wood and exquisite mosaics. 
 
 SAINT MARK'S SQUARE. 
 
 We leave the hotel by a side door and enter an out- 
 side passage between high buildings. This passage or 
 street is not over four feet in width. As a man with 
 a wheel barrow approaches, we line up against a wall 
 and flatten ourselves to make room for him to pass. 
 Then we enter a lane or street bordered with shops 
 In a few minutes, we pass under an archway and are 
 at once in Saint Mark's Square. And this square is 
 the open air drawing room of Venice. After sunset, 
 the people congregate in large numbers. Some of the 
 women wear fine lace upon their heads. There are 
 no hats and bonnets to be seen. In front of the cafes, 
 coffee, tea, and refreshing cold drinks are served. We 
 
86 
 
 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 
 
 sit here and listen to the orchestra. The three sides 
 of the square are Hned with lovely shops which look as 
 if they were in a single, solid building. They are filled 
 with all sorts of dainty, exquisite things that are 
 manufactured here, and are peculiar to the city. The 
 windows are without a speck of dust and are so daz- 
 zlingly illuminated by electricity that the whole square 
 
 SCENE IN FRONT OF ST. MARK'S CHURCH, VENICE. 
 Feeding the Pigeons. 
 
A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 
 
 87 
 
 is brilliantly lighted. It is the most beautiful open 
 air drawing-room that anyone has ever seen, and prob- 
 ably it will never again be equalled. Every evening 
 we come here, although the orchestra plays but three 
 evenings a week. 
 
 VENETIAN LADIES. 
 
 Across the way is the church of Saint Mark's. It is 
 said that the bones of the apostle Mark were brought 
 to Venice in the year 829 and that this church was 
 built and dedicated to him. Inside, not only the 
 walls, but the floor is of mosaic. There are five hun- 
 dred pillars of choice marble with many magnificent 
 decorations. Over the door on the outside, there are 
 four spirited bronze horses. Probably few live horses 
 
88 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 
 
 have ever traveled to such great distances as have 
 these bronze ones. It is supposed that they were made 
 by some great Greek sculptor, so long ago that no one 
 knows to a certainty what his name was. At first, we 
 hear of these horses as having stood on the triumphal 
 arch of Nero in Rome. Later, they were moved to the 
 trumphal arch of Trajan. Next they took a long sea 
 voyage by sailing to Constantinople. In 1204 Doge 
 Dandolo won a victory over the Turks. He at once 
 transported the horses, not to their old home in Rome, 
 but to Venice. They then came to a halt, for the time 
 being, over the door where we now see them. In 1797 
 Napoleon admired them so much that they had to 
 come down and travel to Paris, and there for eighteen 
 years they stood over another triumphal arch. Finally, 
 they returned home, where since that time they have 
 been standing in their old place. With distended 
 nostrils, flowing maues, and fiery eyes, they paw the 
 air as if impatient to start off on another trip. 
 
 It was this same Doge Dandolo who laid siege to 
 the Island of Candia or Crete. By means of informa- 
 tion received through carrier pigeons, he succeeded in 
 taking the fortress. The birds were then sent to 
 Venice with news of victory. Until the close of the 
 Republic in 1849, the pigeons were fed at the public 
 expense. Since then, they have been dependent upon 
 charity. There are so many of them that they darken 
 the air as they fly in clouds around the square. They 
 are so tame that when we feed them beans or peas, 
 they alight on our shoulders and hop over our feet. 
 These pigeons are one of the sights of Venice. Children, 
 and even grown people, have their pictures taken with 
 pigeons flying about them. 
 
A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 89 
 
 Venice is the one ideal spot on the globe for gorgeous 
 water carnivals. The gondolas, and other boats, are 
 gayly decorated and hung with Chinese lanterns. 
 Musicians play and sing as the procession winds around 
 the curves of the Grand Canal. The palaces are brill- 
 iantly illuminated. From windows hang rugs, tapes- 
 tries and flags. And leaning over them to enjoy the 
 scene below are the inmates of these palaces. The 
 moonlight glow and the soft air in this mild climate 
 makes the evening one of enchantment. Of the kind, 
 it is the most beautiful sight imaginable. 
 
 Gondoliers begin their work as young men and con- 
 tinue until they are overtaken by old age. Daily they 
 polish the little brass horses that hold the cords and 
 tassels, also the tall steel jerro at the prow. When 
 too old for the hard work of rowing, they become 
 hookers. These men are at all of the landings. They 
 hold a pole having an iron hook on one end, and with 
 it, they steady a gondola as the passengers get in and 
 out. For this service, they expect a small fee. It 
 does not appear to us that their services are in the 
 least needed. Until we know the history of these men, 
 we suppose them to be beggars. 
 
 Throughout Italy, we have had our pleasure marred 
 every day by great numbers of beggars. We have 
 not been in a single place where they have not found 
 us. Many are taught to beg when small children, and 
 follow it as a profession all their lives. Some are so 
 successful that they have bank accounts. Numbers 
 beg for want of work, and others do so on account of 
 the helplessness of old age. 
 
 They get up and appeal to every foreigner who goes in 
 
90 
 
 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 
 
 GRAND CANAL. 
 
 and out. One is at peace when gliding along in a gon-= 
 dola. When we leave it to cross the Rialto, such a 
 clamorous set of boys beset us that we hasten on. 
 Still they pursue up and down the other side, so we es- 
 cape by going on board the first littl'e steamer that 
 appears. 
 
 Unpleasant as it is to retreat before such a foe, it 
 must have been exciting to be captured by brigands. 
 In the mountain fastnesses of Italy, there are still ex- 
 isting old castles that were their haunts and homes. 
 These bold men watched narrow passes and desolafe 
 places for prey. When travellers came along, they 
 were seized, robbed, and carried off for ransom. Be- 
 
A. LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 91 
 
 sides these bandits, there were organized bands of 
 them in nearly every city of Itaty. They were called 
 hravi, '^brave men/' and deserved their name because 
 they had great courage. However, they were not 
 good, for they robbed, and murdered for pay Al- 
 though there is no capital punishment in Italy, these 
 men were regarded as such wicked murderers, that 
 when caught they were punished by the wheel. Ow- 
 ing to the watchfulness of the police not many are 
 left. Still, they infest Sicily and are quick in using 
 the small pointed dagger. 
 
 From one September until the next, the gondolier's 
 bank is in operation. This is for the benefit of them- 
 selves and their friends. The number of members is 
 seldom more than thirty. There are four officers, the 
 manager, cashier, secretary, and a man to collect fines, 
 at which he is not strict. In the beginning, every 
 member makes a deposit of ten liras, a lira being 
 about twenty cents. During the year, he must deposit 
 one lira every week. Shotild he fail to do this he 
 must pay a fine of two cents. Each member must 
 borrow from the bank during the year not less than 
 one hundred and twenty liras. This may be drawn at 
 any time and in small sums. Loans are made to mem- 
 bers only. The bank is of great benefit on account of 
 the small sums loaned and for the reason that it makes 
 the members thrifty. The gondoliers have two great 
 dinners — one at the carnival time, and the other when 
 the bank closes at the end of the year. Then another 
 bank is organized. 
 
 When a boy becomes a man, one of the first things 
 he does is to become engaged to be married Should 
 
92 A IJTTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 
 
 the girl change her mind by deciding not to marry him, 
 she must return all the rings and presents he has given 
 her. North of Venice is the province of Undine 
 where the custom is a little different. If the girl breaks 
 an engagement, she returns the man^s presents, pays 
 him for the time spent in courting her, and gives him 
 a new pair of shoes. Weddings are usually on Sun- 
 days, as other days are not thought suitable. The 
 superstitious ones say that if you marry on Monday 
 you will become insane. Tuesday brings suffering, 
 and on Thursday the witches comb their hair. There 
 is nothing against Saturday, which is the wedding day 
 for widows. 
 
 A popular food in Italy is chopped mutton which 
 has been boiled for two hours. Into the broth, corn 
 meal is sifted and cooked. When done, the mixture is 
 poured out and cut with a string or knife. This is a 
 bread and is called polenta. There are many kinds of 
 bread in Italy and we have found all of them good. 
 We have never tasted any that was sour. Agondoher 
 and his wife live upon a lira and a half a day. Their 
 food is always the same. For breakfast they have 
 bread and coffee, and at noon polenta and fish. In 
 the evening they eat the cold scraps left over during 
 the day with a soup of shell-fish. In season, they have 
 artichokes, and on Sunday only can they afford to 
 indulge in meat. Garlic and onions are used all over 
 Italy. The Italians are small eaters, and, although 
 they make much wine, they are temperate. 
 
 When the first baby comes the groomsman sends 
 the mother a box containing a pound of meat, a fowl 
 and two eggs. When the little one is taken to church 
 
A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 93 
 
 for baptism the event is a great one. Its dress is 
 swaddling bands of white hnen. These are wound 
 around it, covering the feet and body to the neck. 
 Around the neck is a charm. All over the bands 
 covering the feet there are pinned silver and other 
 metal charms, half moons and hearts. The baby is 
 placed on a long tray under a glass case. Along the 
 sides are blue silk curtains. Then it is carried to 
 church. The name John or Mary is always given by 
 the church. The god-father chooses a second name, 
 and if a third one is wanted the parents decide what it 
 is to be. Many women are so ignorant as to the care 
 of babies that in some instances they lose the first 
 three or four before learning how to take care of them. 
 If we ask a gondolier how many children he has he 
 may tell us eight — when he has four only. This is 
 because he has counted in the little ones who have died. 
 
 Our time has been so short that we have tried to 
 spend it to the greatest advantage. Although we 
 have not visited a great number of cities, we have 
 seen every type of Italian life. 
 
 We have visited Naples the metropolis, Rome the 
 capital, Florence the most beautiful, and Venice the 
 most unique city, not only of Italy but of the world. 
 If time would permit we would visit Italy's chief 
 ports — Genoa, Leghorn, Messina and Palermo. 
 
 There we would see vessels laden with silk, wine, 
 olive oil, oranges, coral, hemp, flax, sulphur, marble, 
 macaroni, bonnet materials, drugs, and chemicals. 
 These vessels are bound for other countries — some of 
 them for our own homes perhaps. As they leave they 
 meet other vessels coming into port bringing to Italy 
 
94 
 
 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ITALY. 
 
 cotton, kerosene, meats, tobacco and lumber, for which 
 the ItaHans must send to other countries. 
 
 We find that silk is the principal export of Italy 
 and that this is the leading silk producing country of 
 Europe. Italy also leads in the production of olive 
 oil. Thus we see that the olive oil and mulberry are 
 important trees in Italy, the mulberry because it 
 furnishes food for the silk worm, and the olive for its oil. 
 
 The mountain slopes are covered with chestnut for- 
 ests which yield an important part of the food of the 
 poorer people. The grape is cultivated too, and great 
 quantities of wine made. 
 
 The manufactures of Italy are not as important as 
 those of other great nations of Europe. The cloth 
 that is manufactured is woven on hand looms and 
 these are usually in the cottages of the people. 
 
 Let us go to Saint Mark's Square for a final look at 
 Venice. The clock says it is twenty-seven minutes 
 past sixteen o'clock. With a sigh we turn towards 
 the gondola that is to take us to the train. In the 
 morning we are to be beyond the border of beautiful 
 Italy and the people we have learned to love. We 
 have enjoyed every minute more than can be expressed. 
 
TEACHER'S SUPPLEMENT. 
 
 A Little Journey to Italy. 
 
 The class or travel club has now completed the study of Italy, 
 and is ready for a review. In order to make this interesting and 
 impress the lessons learned, let the work be summed up in the form 
 of an entertainment called 
 
 AN AFTERNOON OR EVENING IN ITALY. 
 
 For this afternoon in Italy invitations may be written by the 
 pupils, or mimeographed or hektographed and carried to friends and 
 parents. 
 
 If given as an evening entertainment and illustrated by stereopti- 
 con views, handbills may be printed and circulated at least a week 
 beforehand. The following form may be used: 
 
 SCHOOL ENTERTAINMENT. 
 
 A Trip to Italy for Fifteen Cents. 
 
 You are invited by the pupils of the school (or the 
 
 members of the Travel Class or Club) to spend an evening (or after- 
 noon) in Italy. 
 
 The party starts promptly at 1:30 P. M. (or 8 P. M.), 
 
 the . Those desiring to take this trip should secure tickets be- 
 fore the day of departure, as the party is limited. Guides are fur- 
 nished free. 
 
 The proceeds of this entertainment are to be used in the purchase 
 of a library and pictures and steropticon views for the school. 
 
 SUGGESTIONS. 
 
 The exercises should be conducted and the talks given by the 
 pupils themselves. Some topic should be selected by each pupil, or 
 assigned to him, and with this topic he should become thoroughly 
 familiar. 
 
96 teacher's supplement. 
 
 These will prove a ver}' great attraction to both pupils and pa- 
 rents, and should be secured if possible. The lantern with oil lamp 
 may be easily operated by the teacher, while the pupils give the 
 descriptions of the pictures or give talks about the countrj'. 
 
 The lanterns and slides may be rented for the evening or after- 
 noon at reasonable rates and the cost covered by an admission fee 
 of from ten to twenty-five cents. 
 
 Geographies, books of travel, magazine articles and newspapers 
 should be consulted until each pupil has his subject well in hand. 
 He should also, where possible, secure photographs, pictures or ob- 
 jects with vv^hich to illustrate his talk. At its close these should be 
 placed upon a table, or the chalk tray, that visitors may examine 
 them more closely. 
 
 If the entertainment is given in the evening, the teacher may be 
 able to use stereopticon views. 
 
 A leader or guide may be appointed to make the introductory re- 
 marks, and to announce the numbers of the programme. 
 
 Other pupils speak of the journey to Italy, the people, industries, 
 plant and animal life, scenery and special features of the country. 
 
 ROOn DECORATIONS. 
 
 Too many flower decorations cannot' be used. The brighter the 
 flowers, the better. Italian flags may be draped or arranged about 
 the pictures of King Victor, Emmanuel III, and of Helene, the new 
 queen, of the late King Humbert and his wife Queen Margherita. 
 The photograph of the Pope and of the Italian patriot, G-aribaldi, 
 may be placed in Florentine frames borrowed for the day. Pictures 
 of other famous Italian personages may be pinned up about the 
 room. Pictures of Raphael, Michael Angelo, Correggio and other 
 artists and copies of their work way be shown. A list of Perry 
 pictures is given elsewhere that selections may be made for this pur- 
 pose. If larger pictures are desired, remove these from the Stoddard 
 book of views, or order the mounted cuts, from this book. 
 
 Borrow or rent a number of large plaster casts and pieces of marble 
 statuary and place about the room. At the close of the exercises 
 pupils may vote for the most beautiful or interesting piece in the 
 collection and a copy be purchased with school money. This piece 
 
SCHOOL ENTERTAINMENT. 97 
 
 of statuary may be kept in the school room as a memento of the 
 ''Afternoon in Sunny Italy." 
 
 Italian vendors of these casts who live in or near cities make a 
 practice of visiting schools at stated intervals. Where this is the 
 case it will be an easy matter to secure the loan of a number of casts 
 or rent them, and invite the vendor himself to spend a part of the 
 afternoon in the school room. At the close of the exercises he might 
 be allowed to exhibit his basket of wares in order that pupils who 
 desire, may purchase a memento of the occasion. Pretty pieces 
 may often be bought for ten, fifteen and twenty-five cents. The 
 plaster of paris vendor, with his basket on his arm, may figure as one 
 of the tableaux on the programme. 
 
 If by any possible chance an Italian hand organ man might be 
 secured for the latter part of the afternoon the success of the enter- 
 tainment would be complete, from the younger pupils' point of view. 
 This also might easily be arranged where the school is located in a 
 large city. 
 
 The industries of Italy may be shown by a display of articles of 
 Italian workmanship. Carved wood is obtained from Siena : coral 
 from Naples; silver filagree work from G-enoa; candied fruit and 
 straw hats from Leghorn ; gilded woodwork and mosaics from Flor- 
 ence; glass majolicas and porcelain from Venice: marble from Car- 
 rara ; sulphur from the Island of Sicily ; olives, pickled and preserved, 
 and macaroni, may also be given a place in this exhibit. In the 
 stores, colored clay, wax or marble figures may be found, which are 
 faithful miniature reproductions of the people engaged in various 
 occupations in Italy. These might also be secured for the curio 
 table. 
 
 A representation of the Italian out of door cafe may be secured 
 by using sapling and corn stalks. At a table within, lemonade and 
 orangeade may be served : at another booth serve water melon, the 
 favorite melon of Italy, musk melon and fruits. A third booth may 
 be devoted to macaroni and olives. 
 
 In describing the homes, miniature houses, constructed on the 
 sand table, may be shown. In speaking of the costumes or clothing 
 of the people, show the Roman shawl or scarf, white head dresses, 
 silk aprons and Tuscan braids of the women. Call attention to the 
 
98 teacher's supplement. 
 
 tall, peaked hats of the men — the velvet jackets and knee trousers, 
 leather gaiters strapped to the knee, and white goat skin leggins. 
 
 In speaking of the classes of people show dolls dressed to represent 
 the peasant, shepherd, soldier, sailor, the middle class and the 
 higher class. 
 
 COSTUMES. 
 
 For Italian children who take part in the programme or exercises. 
 
 ITALIAN BOY. 
 
 White cotton or woolen waist or shirt, with turn down collar open 
 at the neck; knee-pants, light colored or white stockings, low shoes; 
 rather small felt crush-hat. Dark complexion, dark eyes and hair. 
 
 ITALIAN GIRL. 
 
 White waist cut square in the neck, or ordinary white shirt waist, 
 unstarched, turned low in the neck, the cuffs being turned under to 
 form narrow bands ; short skirt of bright blue, red or yellow ; a red 
 or blue corsage, having bands of bright blue ribben over the 
 shoulders. A handkerchief with gay border may be folded corner- 
 wise and laid about the neck. This will add much to the costume. 
 
 White or black apron, trimmed, if desired, with bright colored 
 ribbons or strips of colored cambric. The apron, as though too long 
 for the wearer, is rolled a little before being tied ; black or white 
 stockings and ordinary shoes and slippers. Head draper}^ of blue, 
 red, yellow and white striped wool or silk or cotton goods. The 
 head-dress may be made of a strip of white muslin six or eight inches 
 wide and a foot long. It may be trimmed with bands of bright rib- 
 bon. A part of it should be folded flat on top of the head, the rest 
 of the muslin hanging down back. It must be pinned to the hair. 
 A bit of stiff paper or pasteboard can be used to make the flat sur- 
 face on top of the head. A necklace of gold beads may be worn, 
 and. knitted blue stockings and low cloth shoes. Brunnettes, with 
 dark eyes and hair, should be selected to take the part. Fruit may 
 be carried in the hand. 
 
 PEASANT GIRL. 
 
 Skirt of brown wool, trimmed with blue velvet. Blue velvet 
 bodice trimmed with silver. White chemisette with sleeves finished 
 
SCHOOL ENTERTAINMENT. 99 
 
 with blue and silver braid. Apron and head-dress of fancy striped 
 goods. Gold neck and ear ornaments. Fancy stockings and leather 
 shoes. Real or imitation tambourines. 
 
 ROMAN FLOWER GIRL. 
 
 Gown of white material trimmed with gay border of figured or 
 printed goods. Silk sash about the waist, Roman gold necklet and 
 armlet; hair flowing and covered at the crown with a pretty kerchief - 
 cap. Basket of real or artificial flowers. 
 
 PROGRAMME. 
 
 1. Introductory Remarks by Guide. 
 
 2. The Voyage and Arrival at Naples. 
 
 3. Home and Street Life in Naples. 
 
 4. Neapolitan Folk Song. 
 
 5. Tableau, ' 'Italian Children.'* 
 
 6. Sorrento. 
 
 7. Copri and Its Grottoes. 
 
 8. Vesuvius. 
 
 9 Reciation, • -Drifting." 
 
 10. Pompeii. 
 
 11. Italian Song. 
 
 12. Street Scenes of Rome. 
 
 13. Fountains and Famous Buildings. 
 
 14. Education and Religion of [taly. 
 
 15. The Pope and St. Peter's. 
 
 16. Italian Hj'mn. 
 
 17. Holidays and Festivals. 
 
 18. Florence. 
 
 19. Italian Artists, — Raphael and Michael Angelo. 
 
 20. Tableau, "The Plaster of Paris Man or Vendor." 
 
 21. Song, "Italy." 
 
 22. Pisa. 
 
 23. "Venice, " a Recitation. 
 
 24. Venice. 
 
 25. Sti Mark's and the Pigeons. 
 
 26. Song, "Beautiful Venice." 
 
 27. The Gondaliers of Venice. 
 
 L.ofC. .. ::- 
 
100 TEACHER^ S SUPPLEMENT. 
 
 28. The Industries of Italy. 
 
 29. The Plant Life of Italy— the Olive and Mulberry. 
 
 „,, r» i. o ( "The Carnival of Venice" 
 
 30. Boat Songs I and Santa Lucia. 
 
 31. Genoa. 
 
 32. The Boyhood of Columbus. 
 
 33. Sicily. 
 
 34. The Italian Patriot Graribaldi. 
 
 35. Music "Italian" National Hymn. 
 
 POEMS FOR STUDY AND RECITATION. 
 
 From "Poems of Places," compiled by Longfellow, Vol XL; 
 "Farewell to Italy, " Anna Jameson; "Amalfii," Longfellow; "Old 
 Pictures in Florence," Browning; "Naples,'' Samuel Rogers; "Pi- 
 sa," Thomas Rogers, Vol. XII.; "The City of My Love," J. U. 
 Howe; "Horatius at the Bridge," Macaulay; "The Roman Carni- 
 val," Charles Cranch. 
 
 STORIES. 
 
 "How Romans Lived," "The Roman Republic," "Cincinnatus, " 
 "The Roman Father," "The Death of Caesar," "Archimedes," all 
 in "Stories of Olden Times," by James Johonnot. 
 
 SONGS. 
 
 "Italy," Songs of Life and Nature; "Italian Song," from Choice 
 Songs; Italian Hymn, Songs of the Nation; "Beautiful Venice, " 
 Franklin Square Song Book No. 2; "Neapolitan Folk Song," Na 
 tional School Library of Song No. 1; A Prisoner's Song, "To a 
 Robin," from National School Library of Song; Boat Songs: "The 
 Carnival of Venice," and "Santa Lucia;" Italian National Hymn (in 
 Little Journey to Italy). 
 
 CLASS WORK. 
 
 Things to find out: What and where is the "Eternal City?" the 
 "Queen of Cities?" the "City of Temples?" the "Mistress of the 
 World?" the "Granary of Europe?" the "Bride of the Sea?" 
 
 What and where are "The Vatican?" the "Coliseum?" "Pan- 
 theon?" "Bridge of Sighs?" "Pisa?" 
 
 .Of what do the Italian people make flour? What is macaroni? 
 
NATIONAL HYMN OF ITALY. 
 
 1. All for-ward to battle! the trumpets are cry-ing; All forward! all 
 
 2. All for-ward for Freedom! in ter - ri - ble splendor She comes to the 
 
 i 
 
 ^zn=^, 
 
 -^ 
 
 =^=^^^^ 
 
 forward! our old flag is fly -ing; When Lib- er - ty calls us we 
 loy - al who die to de - fend her; Her stars and stripes o'er the 
 
 i 
 
 ^==i=i 
 
 ;^ 
 
 ^?^ 
 
 lin - ger no long - er; Reb- els, come on! tho' a thousand to 
 
 wild wave of bat - tie Shall float in the heavens to wel -come us 
 
 li 
 
 Lib - er - ty! Lib - er - ty! deathless and glo - ri - ous, 
 All for-ward to glo - ry! tho' life-blood is pouring. Where 
 
 -h-^- 
 
 ^==g^^#^ 
 
 Un - der thy ban- ner thy sons are vie - to - rious, Free souls are 
 bright swords are flash - ing, and can - nons are roar - ing; Wel-come to 
 
 fe 
 
 
 val - iant, and strong arms are stronger, God shall go with us, and 
 death in the bul - lets' quick rat-tie, Fight - ing or fall - ing shall 
 
 i 
 
 qzin^i 
 
 bat - tie 
 free-dom 
 
 be won. 
 be won. 
 
 Hurrah 
 Hur-rah 
 
 igi 
 
 for tlie ban- ner! Hur-rah for the 
 for the ban- ner! Hur-rah for the 
 
 t^^^d^^^. 
 
 ^^m 
 
 ban-ner! Hur-rah for our bjg» • ner, the flag of the free! 
 
102 teacher's supplement. 
 
 A^ermicelli? What city in Italy has no horses or cows? What are 
 corn paniles? Pumice? How are they used? 
 
 Who was Romulus? Pompey? Julius Caesar? Augustus? Nero? 
 Titus? Constantine? 
 
 What do you know of Roman mythology? of the manners and 
 customs of the Romans? of the chariot races? of the catacombs? 
 of the gladiators? Read "The Destruction of Pompeii,'" by Charles 
 Kingsley, and Bulwer Lytton, in Baldwin's Fifth Reader; also por- 
 tions of "BenHur, '' by Lew Wallace, which gives fine descriptions 
 of Roman life; -'A Climb up Mount Vesuvius,", and '*The Vene- 
 tian Gondola," in "By Land and Sea," (Perry Mason & Co.); 
 "Stories of Rome,'' in "Stories of the Olden Time, " by James Johon- 
 not; "Stories of Old Rome," by Mara L. Pratt, and stories from 
 the "Last Days of Pompeii, " by Bulwer. 
 
 An interesting article on Thanksgiving in Italy may be found in 
 the November '91 Primary Education. Articles on Italian artists — 
 Raphael and Michel Angelo, and copies of their pictures may be 
 found in December and January Intermediate Plan Books. 
 
 SICILY AND SULPHUR. 
 
 The beautiful island of Sicily belongs to the kingdom of Italy. 
 It is . separated from the mainland only by the narrow straits of 
 Messina. Sicily is a little world by itself . It is not like Italy or 
 any other country. Its people are not like any other people. 
 
 Visitors in Sicily are few and far between. It is almost an un- 
 known country to travellers from the United States. The fear of 
 brigands has kept people iiwa}^, and only recently has this danger 
 been removed. It has not been many years since it required 40,- 
 000 soldiers to ke^p the island in order. Now, no more soldiers are 
 needed than in any other part of Ital3\ 
 _ In the eastern part of the island is an active volcano,. Mount 
 Etna. Not many months ago Mount Etna suddenl^^ l)elched forth 
 a great cloud of smoke and gas. The smoke took the form of a 
 tree. It rose 16,000 feet above the top of the volcano, which is its- 
 self nearly 11,000 feet high. 
 
 It was a grand sight. People thronged to see it and watched it 
 with pale, troubled faces, fearing another eruption. They remem- 
 
CLASS WORK. 103 
 
 bered that a smoke cloud hung over Vesuvius while Pompeii was be- 
 ing destroyed. But the cloud soon passed away and with it their 
 fears for the safety of the island. 
 
 This huge volcano is the world's great source of supply for sul- 
 phur. The rocks and soil are largely of volcanic origin and the sul- 
 phur mines in some places penetrate deep in the earth. 
 
 A common ' sight is a train of freight cars loaded with bars of 
 yellow sulphur. Sicily produces about 92 per cent of all the sul- 
 phur used in the world. More than 200,000 men are employed in 
 this industry. Good wages are paid these men and it is owing to 
 this that there is less poverty on the island than on the mainland. 
 
 The largest city on the island is Palermo, on the Bay of Palermo. 
 As the traveller leaves the quay and drives to the hotel a strange 
 sight meets his eye. The streets are thronged with the most cur- 
 ious carts ever beheld by mortal eye. Now the cart is simply a 
 box perched upon very high wheels. It is the decoration that as- 
 tonishes one. The front, sides, back, inside and outside, wheels, 
 pole, in fact every part of the cart is decorated with paintings. 
 
 The carts, carrying all kinds of merchandise, form a moving 
 picture gallery. If one watches them carefully he may learn many 
 a lesson in the history of the country for the stories of the nations- 
 who have fought for Sicily and conquered and occupied it at differ- 
 ent periods are told in these pictures. 
 
 These gaily painted carts are drawn by splendidly decorated horses 
 or donkeys that seem entirely too small for their loads. But these 
 tiny animals are always well fed and cared for. It is said to be the 
 ambition of every Sicilian to own a donkey and cart, if nothing more. 
 
 DRIFTING. 
 
 My soul today, 
 
 Is far away, 
 Sailing the Yesuvian Bay ; 
 
 My winged boat 
 
 A bird afloat, 
 Swings round the purple peaks remote ; 
 
 Far, vague and dim, 
 The mountains swim ; 
 
104 TEACHER^S SUPPLEMENT. 
 
 While on Vesuvius" s misty brim, 
 
 With outstretched hands, 
 
 The gray smoke stands 
 O'erlooking the volcanic lands. 
 
 Here Ischia smiles 
 
 O'er liquid miles; 
 And yonder, bluest of the isles, 
 
 Calm Capri waits. 
 
 Her sapphire gates. 
 Beguiling to her bright estates. 
 
 With dreamful eyes 
 
 My spirit lies 
 Where summer sinojs and never dies; 
 
 O'erveiled with vines. 
 
 She glows and shines 
 Among her future oil and wines. 
 
 The fisher's child. 
 
 With tresses wild, 
 Unto the smooth, bright sand beguiled. 
 
 With glowing lips 
 
 Sings as she skips. 
 Or gazes at the far-off ships. 
 
 Yon deep bark goes 
 
 Where traffic blows, 
 From lands of sun, to lands of snow ; 
 
 This happier one, 
 
 Its course is run 
 From lands 6f snow to lands of sun. 
 
 Buchanan Read. 
 
 VENICE. 
 
 There is a glorious city in the sea, 
 
 The sea is in the broad, the narrow streets, 
 
 Ebbing and flowing; and the salt sea-weed 
 
 Clings to the marble of her palaces. 
 
 No track of men, no footsteps to and fro 
 
CLASS WORK. 105 
 
 Lead to her gates. The path lies over the sea 
 
 Invisible, and from the land we went, 
 
 As to a floating city — steering in, 
 
 And gliding up her streets as in a dream 
 
 So smoothly, silently — by many a dome 
 
 Masque-like, and many a stately portico 
 
 The statues ranged along an azure sky 
 
 By many a pile in more than Eastern pride 
 
 Of old the residence of merchant kings ; 
 
 The fronts of some, though Time had shattered them 
 
 Still glowing with the richest hues of art, 
 
 As though the wealth within them had run o'er. 
 
 From ^^ Venice'' by Samuel Rogers. 
 
 ITEMS OF INTEREST. 
 
 Italy is a monarchy, but within its boarders is a tiny republic 
 and town called San Marino. This republic contains twenty-two 
 square miles. The town is surrounded by a wall. In the town is 
 a hermitage founded hundreds of years ago by a hermit called 
 Marinus. San Marano has always been independent. 
 
 A STORY OF VENICE. 
 
 Perhaps you have wondered why Venice was built on little 
 islands in the sea when there was plenty of room for cities on the 
 main land of Italy. This is the way it came about. Hundreds of 
 years ago news came to the people of the city Aquileia, in the north- 
 ern part of Italy, that men were coming to plunder and burn their 
 city. 
 
 The people of the city packed up their treasures and what goods 
 they could carry and fled away to the sea. There they found some 
 fishermen and a few wealthy people, with comfortable homes, built 
 on the marshes and lagoons. 
 
 The fugitives decided to remain at this place, and built themselves 
 homes ; after a time others came, and Venice grew to be a wealthy 
 and powerful city. 
 
 HOW ITALIANS KEEP OFF HAIL. 
 
 In the northern part of Italy and in Styria are great vineyards. 
 Sometimes when the fruit is just forming, or hanging in ripening 
 
106 teacher's supplement. 
 
 clusters, terrific hailstorms sweep over these vineyards, pelting the 
 precious fruit until it falls off or dies. 
 
 The people watch these crops with great anxiety, for a failure in 
 this crop means that many must go hungry. A few years ago a 
 man named Moritz Stiger thought of a way of helping these people 
 to protect their vinej-ards. He invented a small cannon which 
 could be charged with powder and fired into the clouds. 
 
 Perhaps you wonder what good that could do. Well you know 
 that in order to form hail the rain drops must first freeze, then thaw 
 a little, then freeze again. 
 
 The air driven suddenlj- in among the water drops drives them 
 apart and prevents their forming into hail. Since this discovery, 
 breech loading rapid firing guns are placed at intervals in certain 
 neighborhoods and discharged whenever threatening clouds over- 
 hang the vineyards. 
 
 THE DONKEY IN NAPLES. 
 
 ' 'The manner in which the people of Naples are supplied with 
 food is most amazing to a stranger. The markets are peripatetic, 
 and donkeys are the motive power. Indeed without the donkey it 
 seems as if the whole business of living in Naples would be brought 
 to a standstill. Articles of every description are conveyed from 
 house to house by him. 
 
 He is loaded with wine and water, for in Naples the drinking 
 water is all procured from certain fountains, and sold by carriers ; 
 he carries bushels of vegetables piled in panniers, and spread upon 
 shallow baskets, until nothing but his nose and tail are visible; and 
 he draws loads piled on primitive carts, which, whatever their 
 weight may be, are at least a dozen times his own bulk. 
 
 In his leisure moments the donkey takes his master and fre- 
 quently two or three members of the famil}^ for a ride upon his 
 back. The Neapolitan horses are of such a diminutive size that the 
 drivers standing beside them tower above them." — From Neapoli- 
 tan sketches in the Bay View Magazine. 
 
 OUR CALENDAR. 
 
 We are indebted to Romulus, the founder of Rome, for our Calen. 
 dar. Romulus divided the year into ten months, or 304 days. The 
 
CLASS WORK. 107 
 
 next king of Rome added January and February to the calendar 
 first made, making 355 days: This made the civil year about ten 
 and one-fourth days shorter than the solar year, and produced con- 
 fusion in the recurrences of the seasons and in the records of his- 
 tory. 
 
 During the time of Julius Caesar, a later ruler, the civil year was 
 conformed to the solar by making the number of days 365. The 
 annual excess of the solar year, which amounted to one day in four 
 years, was disposed of by making every fourth year contain 366 
 days. The extra day was added to February. This last arrange- 
 ment was called the Julian Calendar. 
 
 After this calendar had been in use many years it was found to 
 be not exactly correct, and Pope G-regory XIII. invited to Rome 
 'many noted mathematicans and astronomers to remedy the error 
 made. The matter was considered for years and it was finally de- 
 cided that every fourth 3^ear should be a leap year, but that every 
 hundredth year for three successive centuries should be common 
 years, and the fourth hundredth should be a leap year. This was 
 called the Gregorian Calendar. 
 
 riACARONI. 
 
 A million boxes of Italian macaroni are imported by the United 
 States, and through an article of universal consumption, many may 
 not know its ingredients and processes of manufacture. Macanoni 
 is made of hard red wheat from the Black Sea, mixed with Italian 
 wheat, raised on the plains around Foggia. This is ground, the 
 bran and husks are removed, and the fiour is then kneeded in hot 
 water, to the consistency of dough. This, is neit put into vertical 
 cylinders, the bottoms of which are perforated, and the dough is 
 passed through these holes. It comes out below in long pipes, and 
 is cut off in lengths of three feet, and hung on canes in the sun to 
 dry. — From the bay view magazine. 
 
 OLIVE OIL. 
 
 The oil of the olive tree is a very important Italian product. It is 
 used as a substitute for butter in the south, and partly supplies the 
 place of milk, which is little used. It is also used in home manu- 
 factures and is exported in large quantities. 
 
108 TEACHER^ S SUPPLEMENT. 
 
 THE PIGEONS OF ST. flARK'S. 
 
 "You have heard something of the pigeons of St. Marks, Tf you 
 want toknOw all about them, read Hawthorne's story of "The Marble 
 Faun," which tells how Hilda used to some down from her tower to 
 feed them every morning, and there are plenty of Hildas about every 
 day. They number thousands. They have their nests in the cor- 
 nices, crevices and other cozy places about the roof of the cathed- 
 ral, the Doge's Palaee and other buildings that surround the piazza, 
 and are considered sacred by the people of Venice. The story goes 
 that 900 years ago, when Admiral Dandolo captured Candia, he sent 
 the news of his victory to Venice by means of carrier pigoons, and the 
 grand council, who had a good deal of sentiment with all their cruelty, 
 passed a resolution tendering those birds and their descendants for- 
 ever the hospitality of the city. All these years thej^ have been fed 
 at public expense. At two o'clock every day a man appears from 
 some unknown quarter with a basket of corn and scatters it liberally 
 upon the pavement, as if he was sowing it in a field. Then there is 
 a tremendous fluttering — the air is dark with wings. The birds 
 know when to expect him, and swarm down from every direction as 
 the clock in the curious old belfry strikes the hour. But this cere- 
 mony is scarcely necessary, becnuse peddlers are always around to 
 sell to the tourists and other people little cornucopias with corn, and 
 the birds are consequently overfed. They are so tame that they 
 perch upon your hat or shoulder or hand, for nothing is ever allowed 
 to disturb them, and I fear to think what would happen to anyone 
 who dared to kill one of them. '' — Sel. 
 
 REFERENCE BOOKS. 
 
 1. 
 
 Walks in Rome, 
 
 A. 
 
 J. C. Hare. 
 
 2 
 
 Walks in Florence, 
 
 
 ( ( 
 
 3. 
 
 Venice, 
 
 
 << 
 
 4. 
 
 Days near Rome 
 
 
 ( ( 
 
 5. 
 
 Life on the Lagoons, 
 
 
 HaratioF. Brown. 
 
 6. 
 
 7. 
 
 Venice 
 Venetian Studies 
 
 
 Horatio F. Brown 
 
 8. 
 
 Venice 
 
 
 Hon. Alethea Wiel 
 
 9. 
 
 Southern Italy 
 
 Baedeker. 
 
CLASS WORK. 
 
 109 
 
 10. 
 
 11. 
 
 12. 
 13. 
 14. 
 15. 
 16. 
 17. 
 18. 
 19. 
 20. 
 21. 
 22. 
 23. 
 24. 
 
 Central Italy, Baedeker 
 
 Northern Italy, '' 
 
 Roba Di Roma 
 
 Romola 
 
 The Makers of Florence, 
 
 The Makers of Venice 
 
 W. W. Story 
 George Eliot 
 Mrs. Oliphant. 
 
 Mrs. Oliphant 
 
 The Story of Florence, Edmund Gardner. 
 
 W. D. Howells 
 W. D. Howells. 
 Hopkinson Smith. 
 
 Harriet Beecher Stowe 
 Hans Christian Anderson. 
 Hawthorne. 
 Rome and the Campagna Burns 
 
 The Boy Travellers in Southern Europe, Thomas W. Knox. 
 
 PERRY PICTURES FOR ITALY. 
 
 Venetian Life 
 Italian Journeys, 
 Gondola Days, 
 Agnes of Sorrento 
 The Improvisatore, 
 The Marble Faun, 
 
 Numbers are given for the convenience of teachers who have not 
 catalogues from which to order. 
 
 AssisL 
 
 1654. Church of St. Francis. 1655. Door, Church of St. Francis. 
 
 Baiae. 
 
 1656. Temple of Diana. 1659. 
 
 1657. Temple of Venus. 
 
 Florence. 
 
 1661. Panaroma. 1672. 
 
 1662. Baptistery. 1673. 
 
 1663. Bronze Doors, 1674. 
 
 1664. Cathedral. 1676. 
 
 1666. House of Michelangelo. 1681. 
 
 1665. Door, Campanile. 1685. 
 
 1667. National Museum. 1686. 
 
 1668. Courtyard. 1688. 
 
 1669. Pitti Palace. 1689. 
 
 1670. Courtyard, Palazzo Vecchio. 1692. 
 
 1671. Cathedral and Campanile. 1693. 
 
 Blue Grotto, Capri. 
 
 Campanile. 
 Loggia Del Lanzi. 
 Pieta, Baptistery. 
 Panorama, Genoa. 
 Panorama, Messina. 
 Cathedral, Milan. 
 Interior of Cathedral, Milan 
 Window, " '' 
 
 Aisle " " 
 
 Hall of Bronzes, Naples. 
 Well. 
 
IIU 
 
 TEACHER'S 
 
 SUPPLEMENT. 
 
 1695. 
 
 Naples. 
 
 1721. 
 
 Pulpit Pisa 
 
 1698. 
 
 Cathedral, Orvieto. 
 
 1722. 
 
 Doors " 
 
 1699. 
 
 Facade ' ' 
 
 1723. 
 
 Font. Baptistery f' 
 
 1700. 
 
 Entrance ' ' 
 
 1726. 
 
 Panorama, Pompeii. 
 
 1701. 
 
 Door at Left '^ 
 
 1727. 
 
 Near Italy, " 
 
 1702. 
 
 Door at Right - ' 
 
 1728. 
 
 Temple of Jupiter, Italy. 
 
 1706. 
 
 Basilica, Paestum. 
 
 1731. 
 
 San Apollinare in Classe, 
 
 1707. 
 
 Temple of Ceres. 
 
 
 Ravenna. 
 
 1711. 
 
 Palazzo Publico Perugia. 
 
 1732. 
 
 San Yitale, Ravenna. 
 
 1712. 
 
 Entrance ' - 
 
 1733. 
 
 Interior, ' > 
 
 1715. 
 
 Cathedral, Baptister}' and 
 
 1734. 
 
 San Apollinare Nuovo, 
 
 
 Leaning Tower, Pisa. 
 
 
 Ravenna. 
 
 1716. 
 
 Cathedral, Pisa. 
 
 1735. 
 
 Mausoleum of Theodoric, 
 
 1716. 
 
 Doors, . ' ^ 
 
 
 Ravenna. 
 
 1718. 
 
 Leaning Tower, <' 
 
 1736. 
 
 Palace of Theodoric, Ra- 
 
 1719. 
 
 Campo Santo " 
 
 
 venna. 
 
 1720. 
 
 Baptistery ' ' 
 
 1737. 
 
 Tomb of Dante, Ravenna. 
 
 
 Rome. 
 
 
 1741. 
 
 Panorama. 
 
 1760. 
 
 Church of San Pietro. 
 
 1742. 
 
 Aqueduct of Claudian. 
 
 1761. 
 
 Monument to Pope Julius 
 
 1743. 
 
 Appian Wa}^ 
 
 
 III. 
 
 1744. 
 
 Arch of Constantine. 
 
 1763. 
 
 Coliseum. 
 
 1745. 
 
 Arch of Septimus Sever us. 
 
 1764. 
 
 Near View. 
 
 1746. 
 
 Arch of Titus. 
 
 1765. 
 
 Interior. 
 
 1747. 
 
 Triumph of Titus. 
 
 1766. 
 
 Forum. 
 
 1748. 
 
 Spoils of Jerusalem. 
 
 1767. 
 
 Hilda's Tower. 
 
 1749. 
 
 Piazza St. Peters. 
 
 1768. 
 
 Houses of Rienzi. 
 
 1750. 
 
 St. Peters. 
 
 1769. 
 
 House of St. Paul. 
 
 1751. 
 
 Interior. 
 
 1770. 
 
 Mosaics. Church of St. Mary. 
 
 1752. 
 
 Interior. 
 
 1771. 
 
 Palace of Caligula. 
 
 1753, 
 
 Door. 
 
 1772. 
 
 Palace of the Caesars. 
 
 1754. 
 
 Main Nave, 
 
 1773. 
 
 Palazzo Quirinale. 
 
 1755. 
 
 Capitol. 
 
 1774. 
 
 Pantheon. 
 
 1756. 
 
 Statue of Marcus Aurelius. 
 
 1775. 
 
 Porta dell Papalo. 
 
 1757. 
 
 Bridge and Castle of St, 
 
 ■ 1776. 
 
 Tarpeiau Rock. 
 
 
 Angelo. 
 
 1777= 
 
 Temple of Minerva. 
 
 1758. 
 
 Bridge and Castle with St. 
 
 1778. 
 
 Vatican. 
 
 
 Peters. 
 
 1779. 
 
 Loggia of Raphael, 
 
CLASS WORK. 
 
 Ill 
 
 Sistine Chapel. 
 Baths of Caracalla. 
 Basilica of Constantine. 
 Basilica with Via Sacra. 
 Basilica of Constantine. 
 Basilica of St. John. 
 Facade St. Pauls. 
 San Paolo. 
 Palazzo Barghese. 
 
 1791. Cathedral Siena. 
 
 1792. Facade '' 
 
 1793. Interior. 
 
 1791. Palazzo Publico. 
 
 1795. (a) Canal, Tarcello. . 
 
 1795. (b) Cathedral and Baptistrey 
 
 1795. (c) Baptister3\ 
 
 1797. Raphael'sBirthplace, Urbino 
 
 1799. Portal of Cathedral Verona. 
 
 Venice. 
 
 Panorama. 
 
 1819. 
 
 St. Mark's. 
 
 1820. 
 
 Facade and South Side 
 
 
 Main Entrance. 
 
 1821. 
 
 Mosaic, Main Door. 
 
 1822. 
 
 Mosaic, Vestibule. 
 
 1823. 
 
 Interior. 
 
 1824. 
 
 Interior atLeft. 
 
 1425. 
 
 Bronze Horses. 
 
 1826. 
 
 Church and Campanile. 
 
 1827. 
 
 Corner of Churchyard. 
 
 1828. 
 
 Mole and Palace of the 
 
 1829. 
 
 Doges. 
 
 1830. 
 
 Mole from San G-eorgio. 
 
 1831. 
 
 Column with Lion of St. 
 
 1832. 
 
 Mark. 
 
 1835. 
 
 Bridge of Sighs. 
 
 
 Bridge of Sighs and Palace. 
 
 1836. 
 
 Palace of the Doges. 
 
 1837. 
 
 Two Facades. 
 
 1838. 
 
 Porte Delia Carta. 
 Statues from Porte Delia 
 
 Carta. 
 Adam, Statue. 
 Eve, Statue. 
 Bronze Well. 
 Griant's Staircase. 
 Grand Canal. 
 Canal and Eialto. 
 San G-eorgio Magzeore. 
 Lion at Right Arsenal. 
 Lion at Left Arsenal. 
 Calleoni Monument. 
 Marble Well. 
 Interior Cathedral. 
 Facade, Palace of the 
 
 Doges. 
 Palace and Bridge of Paglia. 
 Hall of Grand Council. 
 Bronze Front Palace. 
 
 ]M> 
 
 \0O'.i' 
 
MAR. 6 1902 
 
 PRONOUNCING VOCABULARY, 
 
 Acqua Paola a-kwa pii'-G-la 
 
 Michael Angelo me-ka-el an'-ja-lo 
 
 Bef ana ba-fa'-na 
 
 bocce bo'-cha 
 
 Campagna kam-pan'-ya 
 
 Campanile kam-pa.-ne'-la 
 
 Capri ka'-pre 
 
 Dante dan'-ta 
 
 ferro fgr'-ro 
 
 G-alileo ga-le-la'-o 
 
 gondola gon'-do-la 
 
 pallone pal-lo'-na 
 
 morro m6r'-o 
 
 polenta po-lan'-ta 
 
 pillotta pe-lot'-tii 
 
 Pisa p6'-za 
 
 Pitti pit'-te 
 
 Pompeii p5m-pa'-ye 
 
 pronte pron'-ta 
 
 Psyche . . . . , si'-ka 
 
 Raphael raf '-a-el 
 
 ruzzola root-zo'-lii 
 
 Savonarola sa-vo-na-ro'-la 
 
 Ufizzi . , oo-f et-se 
 
Volume V JANUARY, 1902 
 
 Subacrlption $1.50 p«r Year 
 
 No. 5 
 
 M THE/ i^ 
 
 PI^AN BOOK 
 
 ITTLi/ JOURNErY 
 
 TO 
 
 I T A L yt 
 
 MARIAN M. GEORGE, Editor. ^ '# 
 # f A. FLANAGAN CO.,' Publishers 
 
 Issued; Monthly,' except July and August, 
 
A LIBRflRT <«■ TRAVEL 
 
 Cloth Bound Volumes— Little Journeys to Every Land 
 
 BY Marian M. George 
 
 J - 
 
 Do not fail to include These BooKa in Your Order for 
 Library Books. These make Handsome, ValusJsle Books 
 for Etvery Library. 
 
 The following may be had bound in cloth covers: 
 
 Cuba and Puerto Rico. 
 
 160 pages, 7^ x 5>^ inches, cloth. 60 illustrations, hand- 
 some binding. 50 cents. 
 
 Hawaii and the Philippines. 
 
 176 pages, 7>i x 5j^ inches, cloth. Crater of Kilauea in 
 colors. 78 illustrations. 50 cents. 
 
 China and Japan. 
 
 178 pages. 74 illustrations. Flags in colors. 50 cents. 
 
 Mexico and Central America. 
 
 160 pages. Colored Maps. 65 illustrations. 50 cents. 
 
 Ala3Ka and Canada. 
 
 174 pages. Colored Maps. 74 illustrations. 50 cents. 
 
 ELngland and Wales. 
 
 Scotland and Ireland. 
 
 (IN PRESS.) 
 
 Other countries of Europe are in course of preparation and 
 these will be followed by journeys to Asia, Africa and South 
 America. 
 
 Teachers and Pupils. -rou used this reliable, up-to-dats informa. 
 tioo of countries treated by a successful teacher of children, 
 and an exceedinglT popular writer of stories for children and 
 teachers. 
 
 A. FMN/IQ/IN COnP^NT 
 
 rUPLISHERS 266 W/i94SH AVE. CHK/fQC 
 
The Chicago 
 
 Milwaukee & St. Paul 
 
 Railway 
 
 ELECTRIC UanTED TRAINS BETWEEN 
 
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