.M :3tii Congress, ) HOUSE OF REPRESENTATIVES. ( Ex. Doc. 1st Session. ) \ No. 45. F 594 .F53 Copy 1 ..i.su^x±j.Kji^ OF CAPTAIN FISK TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. LETTER FROM THE SECRETARY OF ¥AR IN ANSWER TO resolution of the House of February 26, transmitting report of Captain Fisk of his late expedition to the Rocky mountains and Idaho. March 3, 1864. — Laid on the table and ordered to be printed. War Department, Washington City, March 2, 1864. Sir : lu compliance with the resolution of the House of Representatives dated February 26, 1864, I have the honor to transmit herewith a copy of the report of Captain J. L. Fisk, assistant quartermaster, of his late expedition to the Rocky mountains and the gold fields of Idaho. I am, sir, very respectfully, your obedient servant, EDWIN M. STANTON, Secretary of War. Hon. Schuyler Colfax, Speaker of the House of Representatives, St. Paul, Minnesota, January 28, 1864. Dear General : Herewith you will find my report of the second overland ex- pedition placed under my charge, and which is respectfully submitted to your consideration. I shall in a feAv days report in person. With respect, I have the honor to be yours, very truly, JAMES L. FISK, Captain, Assistant Quartermaster, Coyyimanding, General L. Thomas, AfJjutant General U. S. A., Washington, D. C. Official copy. W. A. NICHOLS, Assistant Adjutant General, 'Fj^^ EXPEDITION OF CAPT. FISK TO THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS, Itincrai-y of route from Fort Benton to Bannock Cily. Places. Distance — Mileg. Big Coule 15 Lake or pond 83 Sun river - - 17 Sun River crossing ^ 7 Bird Tail rock 17 Dearborn river 17 Little Prickly Pear 12 Little Prickly Pear crossing 8 Medicine rock 7 Little Prickly Pear, (Morgan's) 3 Silver creek 16 Prickly Pear - - G Summit of Rocky mountains 4 Nintli crossing Blackfoot river 13 Livingstone creek 8 Deer Lodge river — Cottonwood City 9 Race Track creek 8 Warm Spring creek 8 J Second crossing Deer Lodge river 4 Last crossing Deer Lodge river - > - - 9 " Divide" creek 12 Last crossing " Divide" creek 9 Big Hole River crossing 18 Birch creek 9 Rattlesnake river 13 Bannock City 16 Official copy. W. A. NICHOLS, Assistant Adjutant General. NORTH OVERLAND EXPEDITION, FOR PROTECTION OF EMIGRANTS, FROM ST. CLOUD, MINNESOTA, VIA FORTS ABERCROMBIE AND BENTON, TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, IDAHO, &c.— 1863. Report of Captain James h. Fisk, assistant quartermaster, commanding. Sir : In accordance with instructions from the Secretary of War, I proceeded in May last to St. Paul, to organize an escort for emigrants from Fort Abcr- crombie to Fort Benton, and the mountainous country beyond. I selected St. Cloud as the rendezvous for the emigrant train, considering that place, in view of the Sioux troubles, to be the most safe and convenient point for assembling. Appointed June 15 as the date of departure from St. Cloud, and accordingly on that day started the train, arriving at Fort Ripley on the evening of the 19th of June. Remained at Fort Ripley until the 25th June, waiting for emigrants that I had heard were on the road. From Colonel Rogers, commanding the post, I procured some additional transpoi-tation, commissary stores, &c., requisite, and also a 12-pounder howitzer with ammunition. We were joined at this place by Slessrs. Major, Hesse and Hannay, of Wash- ington. These gentlemen were commended to my protection by the Secretary SEP 9 1909 I. SF li EXPEDITION OF CAPT. FISK TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 6 of War, and were to form part of an expedition for the survey of a portion of the Oregon boundary. While remaining in camp here I daily exercised the mounted guard in the sim- pler cavalry manoeuvres. On June 25 we broke camp. Previous to starting, I crossed the river to the fort, with my assistants and the guard, to salute and take leave of Colonel Rogers and the garrison, after which the guard rejoined the train, which then moved on. Passed the Indian agency at Crow Wing on June 27, camping on Crow Wing river, and remained in camp Sunday, June 28. Mr. Morrill, Indian agent at Crow Wing, visited our camp this day, and I assembled the emigrants and guard and read to them the rules and regulations of the camp. Reached Wadina crossing of Crow Wing river July 1, having been much delayed by repairing bridges, &c. Remained in camp at Wadina crossing until July 5, waiting for Major, jr., and Colonel Jones, of the Oregon surveying party. These gentlemen not arriving, I started the train July 6. The bridges on the road from Wadina crossing to Otter Tail lake were all broken, and the necessary repairs considerably retarded the progress of the train. Juli/ 8. — We passed Otter Tail City at noon of July 8, and found the city entirely deserted on account of the Indian massacre of last year. A few Chip- pewa Indians were prowling around. Our camp this evening was on Otter Tail lake. The country around the lake is very fine rolling land, covered with short sweet grass, and sufficiently wooded, the trees growing in park-like clumps. This section seems admirably adapted for stock-raising, and is probably not surpassed in the State. Juli/ 9. — Passed a chain of beautiful lakes — Wood lake, Battle lake, &;c. — camping at night on Long lake. The water of these lakes is excellent, and the scenery of their shores and surroundings is magnificent. The country, like that near Otter Tail lake, is in regular rolls or hills, with good grazing, and groves of noble trees. Juli/ 10. — Our I'oad lay through a thick wood of oak, elm, bass-wood, &c., some of the trees being very large. The latter part of the day this forest was on fire on either side of the narrow road, and the train had some difficulty in passing, on account of the fallen trees and excessive heat. On emerging into the open country we discovered that the prairie was on fire for many miles. All the grass was burned, and we had to push on until evening. Camping on Bass lake, we found good water and plenty of feed and wood. Jul?/ 11. — Travelled over a beautiful rolling prairie to Dayton, (AVausietta,) where we nooned. Here we saw further results of the Sioux massacre. The place was deserted, and had been burned. The bodies of Mr. Smith and others, murdered by the Sioux, are buried here. The scene was most melancholy. A dismantled mill, broken wagons, farm implements, and scattered ashes, were all that remained of the once thriving little settlement. We camped at night on the old crossing of the Otter Tail river, Avhere Ave met a mounted escort to bearers of despatches from Ceneral Sibley's expedition. Juli/ 12. — When the cavalry escort on the other side of the river started, a stampede of our horses took place, delaying us about two hours. The road this day passed over an elevated, level prairie, and Ave camped in the evening on the Red River of the North, four miles below Breckinridge, which place was also deserted. July 13.— Travelled over a level prairie until noon, and halted one and a half mile from Fort Abercrombie. In the afternoon we passed the fort, and camped on the Wild Rice river, four miles out. The bed of the river was dry at the crossing, (where we built a bridge the year before,) and Ave Avere only able to get poor Avater from a small pool loAver down the stream. The grass was also rather scanty, OAving to the extreme dryness of the season. There was, hoAvcA-er, plenty of wood. EXPEDITION OF CAPT. FISK TO THE KOCKY MOUNTAINS. FORT ABERCROMBIE COMMANDANT ORDER OF MARCH, ETC. Wc observed to-day small pieces of shale on the prairie, before reaching Fort Abercrombie. Juhj 14. — Remained in camp all day. This camp we named in honor of Major Camp, commanding the post at Fort Abercrombie. Obtained to-day some necessary qnartermaster and commissary stores, repaired wagons, and shod the horses and mules. In the evening I assembled the guard and emigrants, and addressed them as to the order of march. The wagons were to be kept closed np, the van and rear guards in their places, and the flankers out two to three miles on either side. The scouts were to ride ten to fifteen miles ahead of the train each day. I alsn cautioned them as to vigilance each night. We should form a " corral" in the evening on camping ; the tents pitched outside the wagons ; the cattle secured inside the corral, and the horses to be picketed out- side, and near the tents. I also stated that there would be a password after dark, without which no one would be allowed to leave or enter the camp. The guards would have their arms loaded, and would fire on any person not answering the challenge. All lights and fires were to be put out at " taps," and every man was to sleep with loaded arms beside him. I advised the emigrants to help one another on the march, and abide by the rules for the safety and comfort of the Avhole party. The bugle, the drum, and the flag were our means of signals and calls, used in communicating with scouts, flankers, and train guards, for rallying, halting, marching, corralling, &c., &c. OFFICERS OP EXPEDITION. We thus completed all arrangements for the journey. Both emigrants and guard showed the gi-catest readiness to comply with the regulations. My ofiicers Avere : George Dart, first assistant ; S. H. Johnston, second assistant and jour- nalist; William D. Dibb, M. D , physician and surgeon ; George Northrup, wagon- master ; Antoine Frenier, Sioux interpreter ; and E,. D. Campbell, Chippewa in- terpreter. The guard consisted of fifty men. Our wagons were marked "U. S.," and numbered. CROSSING OP SHEYENNE, July 15. — Broke camp, passed the bend of Wild Rice river and Weed lake, and forded the Sheyenne river without much difficidty, after grading its banks. The river was about forty feet wide, and the depth of water was from two to three feet. One stringer of last year's bridge still remained, the rest having been swept away by the winter flood. We camped at the edge of a small wood on the other side of the river. The feed was pretty good, and the wood and water plenty. July 16. — Travelled over a level prairie without wood or water, to Maple river, where we camped. Theie was but little water in the river this summer, the stream being from ten to fifteen feet wide, and one to two feet deep. We found sufilcient grass and wood here. GAME. July 17. — Before leaving camp this morning we loaded the wagons with three days' supply of wood, as there is none to be found between Maple river and the second crossing of the Sheyenne. AVe halted at noon on a small stream, a branch of Maple river, at about nine miles and three-quarters from our last camp. Near here the first buffalo was killed, by Antoine Frenier, our Sioux interpreter, from which we obtained a supply of fresh meat. In the afternoon we saw several small herds of buftaloes, and five bulls were killed by members of the train ; we EXPEDITION OF CAPT. FISK TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 5 saw no cows in these herds. A herd of antelopes also passed ns at some distance off. Reaching the second ci'ossing of Maple river, we camped for the night. The country travelled over this day is a level prairie, very dry, but with pretty good grass. July 18. — Broke camp at 6i a. m. Rain falling; wind southwest. We passed over a low country of marshy pools, (all dry this season,) until noon. Antoine Frenier killed another buffalo near here, and we got the hump, tongue, liver, and other chosen parts. We camped at night on a hill, near a small lake, about eight miles from the Sheyenne river, with water and grass, but no wood. WOLVES. The wolves at night kept up a most dismal howling, one ambitious lupine always coming in with a liigh alto, some octaves above the rest. One of our party, known by the sobriquet of " Big White Turtle," (so named by the Chippewas from his size and complexion as seen when bathing,) made a good long- shot at one on a distant hill, causing him to hug the grass and stop his noise. The buffalo-wolf is very large, of a greyish dun color, with a dark back ; he follows the vast herds of buffaloes that roam the plains, and when one gets far separated from the rest, several wolves fasten on him, bring him down, aud soon despatch him. SHEYENNE RIVER, SECOND CROSSING. July 19. — The road to-day was over a rolling prairie to the second crossing of the Sheyenne river. The river here (this summer) is thirty to forty-five feet wide, with little water, and is easily forded. We passed some small lakes, of good watei", and after fording the Sheyenne, camped on the other side. We struck General Sibley's trail to-day. July 20. — Travelled over a rolling prairie, with small lakes and good feed, until noon. About five miles out we came upon one of General Sibley's in- trenched camps, of earthworks for cannon and rifle-pits connecting them. This camp was extensive, and laid out and constructed on scientific principles. We picked up yesterday two dilapidated mules, and to-day a horse that the birds had evidently roosted on for some days. A " black snake" (whip) brought him on his legs, and a little water and grass kept him there for the time. We hope to save him. Halted at noon on a small lake, fifteen miles and a half from the second crossing of the Sheyenne river. The road this afternoon lay over an ixndulating prairie, and we camped in the evening at another of General Sibley's intrenched camps, Avhich we found rather roomy for our small party. There was a small pool of water near, with grass, but no wood. We used water from Avells dug by the general's men. LAKES LYDIA AND JESSIE. MILITARY CAMP, DINNER WITH THE SOLDIERS, ETC. July 21. — Road over rolling prairie to Lakes Lydia and Jessie, where we camped at noon and remained to rest stock, &;c. The water of Lakes Lydia and Jessie (twin lakes "i is slightly saline, soda and magnesia prevailing. There is, however, a good spring three-quarters of a mile southwest of our camp, in a ravine on the shore of Lake Lydia. Shale crops out at tlu; edge of the lakes, and one of our party discovered coal on Lake Jessie. Both of these lakes are very beautiful ; they are surrounded by bold bluffs, well timbered. Our camping place was between the two lakes on a small eminence. In the wood at the back of camp we heard an incessant noise of birds, and we found the trees full of nests; it was a perfect rookery; there were cranes, ci'oavs, gulls, storks, shite- pokes, &c., &c., with plenty of ducks and geese on the lakes beyond. Some of our boys were soon at work securing a meal. Our scouts reported that there 6 EXPEDITION OF CAPT. FISK TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. was a large camp a mile or two to the south, which they supposed to be General Sibley's, and shortly afterwards several oificers belonging to General Sibley's expedition visited our little camp. From them we learned that part of the gene- ral's forces were camped on Lake Atchison. We found abundance of wild cherries in the thickets round camp, and one of our party discovered an arrow jiainted red on the top of the highest hill near. It was laid on a large flat stone, pointing south. Antoine Frenier described it to be a "medicine arrow" — an offering to the God of the Rock. Some of the party had a very pleasant swim in Lake Lydia; the water is delightful for bathing. Juhj 22. — Camp Lydia. — This camp we named in honor of j\L-s. Fisk. "VVe laid over to-day to recruit stock, &c. In the afternoon, by invitation, the offi- cers of our expedition and others dined at General Sibley's camp. We re- ceived a most cordial welcome from the officers and men of the expedition. We learned here that the general had gone south to the Coteau du Missouri, with some 2,200 of his forces, leaving the remainder in this camp, which was strongly fortified. General Sibley was in pursuit of the Sissiton Sioux, who, it is said, wished to surrender to him. July 23. — B]-oke camp at dh a. m. My little guard took their posts, and we started the train. Some of General Sibley's officers and men accompanied us a short distance this morning, and bade us all a hearty farewell, at the same time expressing great fears for our safety. They said we "must be either heroes or madmen." We crossed Stevens's great slough and passed Bartlett's spring, which is on the south side of the slough about 40 rods west of the crossing. The water of this spring is most delicious, and is almost as cold as ice- water. We filled our water casks here, as the water is slightly saline in most of the ponds between this place and James river. We halted at noon on a small al- most circular lake, Avhich we named Lake Dibb, in honor of our most excellent doctor. The water of the lake was a little salt. Grass good; no wood. In the afternoon we travelled over a rolling prairie, with many ponds and marshes, and camped in the evening near a small pool, with pretty good water and grass ; still no wood. July 24. — Road over a rolling prairie to Lake Townsend, (so named in honor of our worthy Assistant Adjutant General U. S.,) where we watered our ani- mals. Grass good. We passed a small dry stream, a branch of James river, and halted to feed near a small pond with pretty good water. In the afternoon we travelled over an undulating prairie to the Riviere a Jac[ues, or James river, where we camped. SOiME INDIANS. July 25. — Travelled over a fine level prairie until near noon, and halted at a small pool, with good water and excellent grass. The trail in the latter part of the day lay over an undulating prairie, and we camped at evening on Trinity lake, so called by us from being divided into three lakes of nearly equal size, and which are doubtless united in rainy seasons. Two of oixr scouts to-day saw six Sioux — five men and a squaw ; they were unarmed and apparently friendly. My men unfortunately neglected to bring these Indians into camp, or Ave might have obtained some information from them. We, however, learned subsequently from Red River Hunters, that there were twenty or thirty Sioux lodges to the south of us yesterday, but the Indians moved camp last night, hearing of our approach. 'Vha weather so f;ir has been cool and pleasant ; we have only had two or three hot days. We have found woollen clothes to be indispensable on the trip. It has rained the whole afternoon. Our camp to-night is an excellent one, and very easily defended, having lakes on two sides of it and a marsh on the third. Feed and water plenty ; no wood. July 26. — Passed many small ponds and marshes ; the country was rolling. Crossed Sheyenne river (third crossing) 1^ miles from camp. The bed of the EXPEDITIOX OF CAPT. FISK TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 7 riTer Avas almost dry, only small pools of water remaining. The grass ou the route was good. lu the latter part of the day our road lay over a level plateau to the Butte de Morale, near which we camped on a small lake on the north side of the mount, DESERTERS. This day George Northrup, (sou of Aus. Northrup, of Minnesota,) wagon- master, George Geire (French Canadian, of Pembina,) and Richard Duncan Campbell, (half-breed of Pembina,) basely deserted the party, taking with them thi-ee valuable horses, a mule, their arms, carbines and revolvers, saddles, bridles, &c., all United States property. As they were in the rear, they were not sus- pected until evening, and it was then impossible to pursue them, as they had doubtless travelled fast, and we could not spare men or horses from our small party in the heart of the Sioux country. The execrations of the whole com- pany fallowed these men, as they had been most kindly treated. It rained slightly all day, with a cool wind from southwest. July 27. — Travelled over a more level prairie to Basswood island ; this is not, properly speaking, an island, but is a small tract of high land surrounded by low marsh country. This is a very good camp ; the grass is excellent ; there is fine water in a spring at the foot of the bluffs, with plenty of wood in the neighboring couliis. It is through this range of highlands, some fifty miles in length, that I discovered last year a beautiful and very level pass. We camped here at noon. Some of the boys chased, a small herd of buffaloes this afternoon within sight of the camp ; they wounded one of them, and he took to the middle of an adjoining lake, imagining himself perfectly safe with only his nose out of water. The boys blazed away, however, until he thought he had better come, where he was soon despatched. RED RIVER HUNTERS. Juhj 28. — Our road to-day was over a fine rolling prairie, passing a chain of lakes called White Wood lakes, which extend almost to the Mouse river. Our scouts discovered a large camp of Ked River Hunters, two or three miles to the south of our track. I determined to visit their camp, and accordingly rode over, with some of my assistants. The camp was large, and looked ex- ceedingly picturesque. The carts were formed into a circular corral, being placed side by side, with the hubs adjoining, forming an almost impassable bar- rier. Inside of this defence were pitched their skin tents, which are conical, with an opening at the top for the smoke to escape. All around the outside of this circle was a framework of stakes, which was covered with buffalo meat drying in the sun. The meat dries in this way, without salt, in about two days. These erections looked in the distance like a red wall around the camp. The hunters, about six hundred, were almost all absent, hunting the buffalo on the adjacent plains. We found only old men, women and children, in camp. The women were hard at work, cutting up meat, and chopping pemmican. In making pemmican they mince the meat and fat tolerably fine, put it in a buffalo hide, poiu- in boiling fat, and close it up ; it eats well, if prepared with care. They Avere also di-ying little cakes of wild cherries and berries, to eat with dried buffalo meat and pemmican. We saw some of the young girls seated on buffalo hides, which were stretched tight on frames, removing the fat, &c., from the skins with a sort of a knife or scraper. These women, mostly half-breeds, are many of them pretty, rosy-cheeked, bright-eyed, decently dressed, and modest in their manners. Everything around this camp looked neat. The people were polite, and evidently did not lack for anything. They had many oxen, cows, and ponies, feeding around. This party Avas from Pembina and vicinity. When at home they are farmers. They were now hunting for meat. In the fall they 8 EXPEDITION OF CAPT. FISK TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. hunt for robes, as the buffalo hides are then thick and well covered with hair, or fur. Most of these jieople were Roman Catholics, and were under the com- mand of their captain, Edward Harman. I gave aiithority, in writing, to Captain Harman, to take the horses, miiles, arms, &c., from Northrup, Geire, and Campbell, (deserters,) should he find theni at Pembina, where we suppose they have gone, Harman to have one-half the value of the stolen goods, and to forward the remainder to me at Saint Paul, Minnesota. The captain feels sanguine of catching them, and says he will take them, dead or alive. MORE INDIANS. In the course of conversation with the Red River Hunters, I learned that we had alarmed a small party of twenty Sioux yesterday ; they had fled in the night. The half-breeds also reported that over one thousand Sioux were one day's journey to the south of us ; they had visited their camp the previous day. We supposed these to be Sissiton Sioux, travelling towards the Missouri. July 29. — Passed over a hilly country, with small ponds, mostly dry. Near Wintering river we came upon a herd of several thousand buffaloes, and soon captured all that were needed by our party for the next twenty-four hours. Crossed Wintering river without difficulty, the bed being dry ; but it is difficult to ford this stream in a wet season, the bottom being miry, and the water usually from three to five feet in depth. The channel is hei-e two or three hundred feet in width. We camped in the evening on a small lake. Good Avater and feed. Three or four Red River voyageurs visited our camp this evening. One of their number struck up lively tunes on his violin ; our boys dancing " French Fours," and having a merry time. (These men were from the main camp men- tioned before.) We have with us several French Canadians, belonging to the guard, &c.; they are quite accustomed to prairie life, attend well to their duties, and are gay and light-hearted when the business of the day is over. Saw to-night a most beautiful halo round the moon ; thex*e were three circles, showing all the prismatic colors very vividly. MOUSE RIVER LARGE HERDS OF BUFFALOES, ETC. July 30. — Train journeyed over a very rolling prairie. In descending towards the Mouse river, we saw a splendid sight : the whole valley, as fixr as we could see, was covered with buffaloes, feeding, drinking at the lakes, or rolling and playing; there were probably upwards of ten thousand. As soon as our adA'ance guard and flankers came near them, there was a general stampede, and a most exciting chase. Almost the whole of the baffaloes starting off' in line, several Avere killed, and we had abundance of buffalo ribs, cooked in hunter fashion in the evening. We place the ribs, supported by bent stakes, on either side of a large fire, and so roast them ; they are delicious cooked in this Avay. The train passed in sight of herds of buffalo the whole of the day. There are numerous coules on this day's journey, running down to Mouse river ; most of them have timber, grass, and Avater. Our course avoids descending these coules, and is along the plateau at the head of them. We camped in the evening on the site of the "old camp" of 27th of July last year; it is a good camping ground, on the top of a high bluff. In the coule below is an excellent spring, and grass and timber are found along the sides of the A'alley. WRUriNG HOME. The captain of another Red RiA^er camp, Avith several followers, was brought in to-day. They will stay Avith us to-night, and take our letters toAvards home via Pembina to-morrow. EXPEDITION OF CAPT. FISK TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 9 July 31. — Remained in camp to-day, to recruit the stock and repair wagons. Our camp is on higli ground, at the head of a coule running down to the Moiise river. This river is about five miles distant, and we are in sight of the Coteau du Missouri. This is a most excellent spot for camping for a few days. I this morning sent to Pembina, by the Red River Hunters previously mentioned, a short letter to General L.Thomas, Adjutant General United States army, giving an account of the progress of the expedition, as follows : "Camp Grant, near Head of Mouse River, ''My 31, 1863. " General : I take the opportunity of the visit of a Red River Hunter to communicate to you the progress of the expedition from Fort Abercrombie to Fort Benton under my charge. Since leaving Fort Abercrombie our journey has been most satisfactory. Notwithstanding the extraordinary drought this season, we have not suffered so far from the want of either grass or Avater, proving, I think, the great superiority of this route to the Rocky mountains and Pacific country. Our party is in excellent health, and the cattle, horses, &c , are in fine condition. The expedition received no assistance whatever from General Sibley, and I started with a guard of fifty men to travel the Sioux country. Near Lake Jessie I found General Sibley's camp, and learned that the general had gone to the Coteau du Missouri with the bulk of his forces, in pursuit of a large band of Sioux, who, it is said, were wishing to surrender to him. The general had left about 1,500 men in camp, strongly intrenched and defended by cannon. I left there with my little band, passed within about eighteen miles of Devil's lake, and am now camped for the day near the head- waters of Mouse river, about two hundred and sixty-eight miles west of Fort Aber- crombie. We are almost through the hostile Sioux country, and I think that there is now little to apprehend, for the expedition. It is a source of great satisfaction to me that in this unparalleled season we should have found my old trail sa practicable. I Avrote you in detail from Fort Abercrombie as to my organization, embarrassments, &;c. " In haste, I have the honor to be your obedient servant, "JAMES L. FISK, Cajytain and A. Q. M., " Comd'g Northern Overland Expedition for Protection of Emigrants. " General L. Thomas, " Adjutant General United States Army, Washington, D. C." I paraded the guard in the afternoon, inspected arms, and afterwards made a few remarks to the men, thanking them for the cheerful alacrity with which they had obeyed all orders, and stating that we were almost through the Sioux hunting- gi'ounds ; that I now apprehended no danger from that nation, but that, of course, Ave could not relax our vigilance in any respect in passing through the Assiniboine, Gros Ventres, and Blackfoot country, for, if they feared to attack our party, their constant aim would be to steal our animals. The guard afterwards shot at a mark, with rifles and revolvers, for a prize. The voyageur who took our mail this morning Avas a Canadian, of middle age, and of excellent quiet manners. He spoke good French, and was most animated and even elo- quent in his description of the scenery of the Coteau du Missouri, Coteau du Nord, &;c. His dress, &c., Avill giA^e a good idea of the costume and appear- ance of the Red RiA'er Hunter. He wore a felt hat, with a gay Avreath ; a dark blvie coat, with a hood; drab leggins, fringed with scarlet and black cloth, with bead-Avork and gilt buttons on the outside; and moccasins embroidered with stained porcupine quills. To this, add a crimson sash around his waist ; cross- belts (for his shot-pouch and powder-horn) covered with beautiful Avork in colored beads ; a knife sheath and shot-pouch similarly ornamented ; a powder- 10 EXPEDITION OF CAPT. FISK TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. horn, with bright colored tassels and brass nails ; and a hunting knife and rifle. He rode a well-trained hunting Rob Roy pony, and had a buckskin saddle or pad, with elegant designs in colored beads; also, a blue broadcloth saddle cover, with red fringes, and decorated in the same way as the saddle. This descrip- tion will apply to most of these French-Canadian voyageurs. They combine, in their dress, the Indian and the Frenchman ; they are dashing buffalo hunters, frequently surrounding the herd and killing almost every animal. They are much feared by the Indians, from their courage and skill with the rifle, and as horsemen. The half-breeds have a great deal the same appearance and chai-ac- ter, with more or less of the Indian. The French-Canadian hunters live mainly by the chase, and in the intervals amuse themselves by horse-racing, playing on the violin, dancing, singing, &;c. They are a gay, light-hearted race, and are generally reliable, hard-working, enduring, and faithful employes. August 1. — Broke camp at 6.30 a. m. Our road to-day was over a high, level pi'airie, with coules on the right, running down to Mouse river, which stream was distant from five to seven miles, and the hills of the Coteau du Mis- souri, on the left, about seven to ten miles off. We halted at noon on a coiile, with a spring, good feed, and a little wood, and camped in the evening on the brow of a very deep coule, with no water. We, however, dug a well and got a supply of tolerable water by morning. Feed was good in the coule. In digging the well our men found coal, and further down the coule it cropped out on the face of the bluff. The seam was eighteen inches to two feet in thickness of fair bituminous coal; we tried it and it burned freely. We passed herds of buffalo all day ; probably 4!0,000 at least. Our table was plentifully supplied with meat — roast ribs and hump steaks, «&c., and now and then a feast of tongues. Our course to-morrow will be more towards the coteau. I sent Lieu- tenant Johnston and Antoiue Frenier on a short reconnoissance to the Mouse river this morning. They report that they found the river nearly full; it was from one hundred to one hundred and twenty feet in width, with apparently a depth of from six to seven feet. The banks of the stream were heavily wooded with oak, elm, ash, maple, &c., and were bordered on either side with beautiful green meadows. The buffalo was ranging through these pastures in countless herds. The view of the valley from the heights was enchanting. Mouse river is a fine stream, tributary to the Red River of the North, and is the most im- portant between the Mississippi and Missouri. It flows thi'ough a deep valley more than two hundred feet below the pi-airie level. This valley varies in width from one-half mile to two miles, and is very fertile, having a rich alluvial soil. Deep coules run up into the prairie for iifteen or twenty miles. There is abundance of good timber, and our exploring party was informed that there is coal along the river. This is a most eligible spot for farming, and I have no doubt that the whole valley will be settled in a few years. August 2. — Our course to-day was towards the Coteau du Missoim. The mirage this morning was most deceptive along the coteau; the resemblance to lakes of water was perfect; several of our party started to water their horses, and did not discover their mistake until they had ridden several miles. The small lakes which were so frequently foinid in the basins between the hills were covered with wild geese, ducks, and snipe; occasionally, too, we saw Avliite cranes, but these birds are very shy. Their plumage is of a snowy white, with black tips to the wing feathers ; these feathers the Indians value highly. Passed many herds of buffalo on our route. AN INCIDENT INlilANS' FIXINGS, ETC. Rather an amusing incident occurred to two of our party, Messrs. Johnston and Major. They rode down a coule leading to Mouse river, very narrow, with bluffs on either side from one hundred and fifty to two hundred feet in height. EXPEDITION OF CAPT. FISK TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 11 The bottom was thickly wooded, with dense underbrush, and the buffalo path in the centre would only admit of one horseman at a time, and was completely shadowed with trees. These coules are a refuge for a few "grislies," and in passing along a very narrow path an immense black monster suddenly leaped out in front of Mr. Major's horse, which jumped round, Mr. Major calling out " grisly," and unslinging his carbine. It turned out, however, to be a big bull buffalo, who was asleep under the bush, and poked out his shaggy head on hearing them approach. Before the ponies could get over their fright the bull was up the heights. It would have been an awkward spot to have met a real " grisly." Whilst scouting in the afternoon. Lieutenant Johnston discovered a kind of scarecrow. It consisted of a large stake, about seven feet high, planted in the ground, having another stake across it like arms. The whole was covered with wolfskins, and the head of a wolf was on the top. On the wolf's head was a scarlet cloth cap, worked with beads, and above this a woollen cap with a metal chin-strap. On the arms of the figure were hung small arrows, tobacco, &c. Antoine Frenier states that this is a war sacrifice of the Sioux. We camped in the evening on a small lake, with water and grass pretty good. August 3. — Travelled over a high, level prairie, and camped in the evening near three lakes ; the water of one of them Avas good, the others were saline. W^e were passing herds of buffalo the whole morning; they stretched in every direction as far as the eye could reach, and a field glass showed other herds in the distance. The mountains of the cuteau were covered with them. They looked like swarms of flies. Certainly over one million were in sight during the day. We were much amused this evening in watching a weazel hunting ground- squirrels. He was a pretty active little fellow, as elastic as a snake, and seemed to take little notice of us. He dived down all the squirrel holes to see if any one was at home ; finally unearthed one, and there was a great race ; the squir- rel, however, doubled and got out of sight. The weazel's rage at losing his prey was most comical ; he turned a summersault in the air, whirled round, and performed all sorts of gymnastic feats. His sight did not seem to be very good; he hunted more by scent. We shot some hares to-day. One of our party got a bad fall hunting buffalo. His pony put her foot into a wolf hole, while going at full gallop, and threw him on his head. He was, however, able to mount, and secured the buffalo that he was after. These fivlls are frequent, the ground being full of holes — badger, fox, wolf, &c. — nearly covered with grass. None of our party, however, have, so ftu-, been materially injured. We had another grand serenade of wolves to- night. August 4. — Our course to-day was a little nearer the hills of the Coteau du Missouri than last year, on account of the scarcity of water, the lakes at the foot of the bluffs generally having some water in them. The prairie was high and rolling. The Riviere des Lacs was about two miles to our right. We found the bed of it perfectly dry. This river is little more than a chain of lakes connected with each other in ordinary seasons. LEAVE THE OLD TRAIL. In the afternoon we left the " old trail," determining not to pass near Fort Union, as we did last trip. We camped in the evening near three small lakes, with water and grass. Mr. Major, with two barrels, killed twenty snipe this evening. They abound on these small lakes. August 5. — The train travelled through a part of the Coteau du Missouri, taking a westerly course. We passed towards noon a lofty hill, the highest of the range in that portion of the coteau ; it had served as a landmark all of the morning, which we named "Mount Frenier" in honor of our Sioux interpreter and chief scout, who shot a white crane here. We halted at noon near this 12 EXPEDITION OF CAPT. FISK TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. hill ; feed good, and several lakes around the mount. We observed round "Mount Frenier" the marks of an old Indian encampment; there were traces of some 300 lodges; they surrounded the base of the hill to the northwest. On the top of the mount was a pile of stones, serving as a cover for scouts. The circles of stones surrounding the lodges abound among the mountains of the coteaii. In some cases it is evident that these camps are very old, as the stones are half buried. In the afternoon we passed out of the eoteau into the prairie, and took a northwesterly course. A point of the eoteau juts out here to the north, which we shall have to pass round to-morrow and then take a due west direction. August 6. — Our course until the afternoon was through the eoteau. We came out again on the praii'ie in a northwest direction, and camped on the site of our " old camp " of August 3 and 4, 1862, the train moving with tolerable ease throiigli the valleys of the eoteau. This is a good camp ; there is plenty of grass, and a cold spring (tasting slightly of sulphur) rises in an adjacent could. FRUIT, A MEDICINE LODGE, KTC. We gathered black currants, cherries, &c., in this coule. This little taste of fruit was of great service to the men. Near our camp were the remains of a large medicine lodge. The centre-pole was still standing, the bark being cut in zigzags; and wands, with part of the bark removed and the Avood colored red, were lying round. The lodge was about 25 feet in diameter, and round it were quite recent traces of about 30 tepees. August 7. — To-day we struck out into the prairie a little to the north of the eoteau, passing a good-sized lake a few miles to our right, and travelled over a tolerably level plain, camping at night on a coule, with jjoor grass and scarcity of water. We had, however, a supply of water with us sufficient for this evening and to-morrow morning. It is a good plan to invariably fill all spare casks with water before starting in the morning. AN INDIAN, WITH PROSPECTS OF MORE. August 8. — Road was over a rolling prairie, and our course was a little north of west to avoid a promontory of the Coteau du Missouri. About three miles from our morning's camp Messrs. Dibb and Johnston brought in an Indian, who proved to be one of "Broken Arm's" canoe band of the Assiniboines. He stated that there were 145 lodges of these Indians a few miles north of our trail, and that they Avould try and meet us when we camped in the evening. We halted at noon near a small stream, almost dry, a tributary of White Earth river, with pretty good feed. In the afternoon Ave travelled over a toler- ably level prairie. Our course was a little of south of Avest, and the Coteau du Missouri Avas on our left. We camped in the evening near a coule with a dry pool ; Ave, hoAvevcr, dug wells and got Avater for the stock and party. THEY COME — THE ASSINIBOINES. Towards sunset a large number of mounted Indians came in sight ; halted in line at a distance of 200 or 300 yards ; dismounted from their horses and Avaited to be iuA'ited into camp. I sent Antoine Frenier to learn Avho they Avere, and found on his return that it was the canoe band, Avith their chief, " Broken Arm," (Istowerahan,) the chief Avarrior, " Red Snow," (Waduta,) and " Drunken Bear," (JMatoitko,) chief of the " Young Children" band of Assiniboines. EXPEDITION OF CAPT. FISK TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 13 THE COUNCIL. I requested "Broken Arm" to pay me a visit, at tlie same time inquiring whether any of the bad Indians Avere with him who were saucy List year. "Broken Arm" sent most of his men back to their lodges, and entered our camp with " Red Snow," " Drunken Bear," and about fifteen followers. I received the chiefs in my tent, s\n-rounded by my assistants; the leaders seated them- selves, their attendants sqviatting down outside. " Broken Arm," " Red Snow," and " Drunken Bear" showed me certificates (wrapped up in almost innumera- ble handkerchiefs, &c.,) from Indian agents and others, stating that they and their bands were good Indians ; had always been friends to white men, and de- served to be well treated by them. " Broken Arm" then stated that he wished to have a talk with me, and I assenting he proceeded, with much fluency and gesture, to speak substantially as follows, Antoine Frenier translating sentence by sentence : " Chief soldier, when I meet a white man on the plains I call him ' father,' because we get so many things from him that we cannot make ; we are as chil- dren to the white man. The white man gives us blankets and clothing, flour, coffee and sugar, guns, knives and axes. The ' Assiniboines' have never killed a white man, never robbed him of his horses or goods, and they claim that they ought to be treated better than those Indians who have been behaving so badly. Our country is a poor country; the land is not good ; it is not fit for the white man. My people have nothing but the buffalo, which gives them food, clothing, shelter, and fuel. " My grandfather was born on these plains, like the wolf; he owned this land, and he told me always to be a good friend to the white man. 1 have been so. I now claim this country. I and my band wish to live here, and not to be dis- turbed by the Avhite man. If the white man comes here, he will drive away the buffalo, and my people will starve and perish. " I want you, chief soldier, to tell the Great Father of all these things." I replied that I had already told the Great Father at Washington that the Assiniboines were friends of the white man. They need not be alarmed ; their laud would not be taken from them ; a road might be made through their coun- try to Fort Benton, but if they behaved well, they Avould find a friend in every white man. If they met white men on the plains, they should always go up to them, take them by the hand and treat them well, ishould they remain true to their treaties, and suffer by the white man's coming into their country, the Great Father would help them and give them his protection. I then told the chiefs of the number of soldiers that the Great Father had, numerous as the buffalo on the plains, or the leaves of the forest. " Broken Arm" said that that was true ; he had heard from Mrs. Culbertson (at Fort Union) of the number of our soldiers. He liked me, for I said what was true. He had found that I spoke the truth to him last year. He went on to say that he had heard that a great array Avas coming into their country, and would drive out all the Indians. In reply, I assured him that the Great Father would destroy all bad Indians, but would be a good friend to those who treated the white man well, aud ob- served their treaties. " Broken Arm" produced a treaty made at Fort Laramie in 1851 with the Assiniboines, Rees, Crows, Blackfeet, Gross Ventres, &c., fixing their hunting- grounds and guaranteeing to them certain annuities if they kept its stipulations. I reminded "Broken Arm" that some of his band had been very insulting last year ; he must take care in future that they were not troublesome to white men. I had been told by the Great Father to be friendly to all friendly Indians, but a foe to all that were hostile. I had been pleased with all that I had heard from " Broken Arm," and should tell the Great Father how well his men had con- 14 EXPEDITION OF CAPT. FISK TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. ducted themselves on this occasion. At the same time I advised the chiefs to send one of their number to Washington; he would be well received, and it would be of service to the Assiniboines, now that the Sioux were such bad In- dians. In the conversation that followed the Indians stated that they remembered seeing me last year, and also our doctor, who, on that occasion, had given " Broken Arm" some snutt'for a headache. They wanted some more of that medicine ; it was very good. Tlie doctor handed round his snuft-box, and there Avas a general sternu- tation, amidst much laughter. It was amusing to watch the efforts of the Indians to maintain their gravity and imperturbability. The tears ran down their faces, and finally they were obliged to sneeze repeatedly, looking at one another after the explosion with the most sheepish air imaginable. The doctor gave them med- icine last year for their various disorders, and they call him "Pejutawishashita'* — the "Medicine Man." "Broken Arm" signified to me that they wished to form- ally give me the name that 1 acquired among them last year, wiien they wanted to turn back the train, and 1 told them that "a soldier never turns back." They baptized me " Ah-kichita-houka-na-mc-ne-she-ne" — " The ^liicf soldier that never turns hack" — each chief rising, taking my hand, and saying, "Ho! koda, Ah-kichita-houka-&c., welcome, friend chief soldier," etc. They have named Lieutenant Johnston, "Wa-to-pan" — "Canoe," — admitting him into their band, and promising him a good wife if he came back to spend tlie winter with them. " Broken Arm" afterwards stated that he remembered Governor Stevens very well, and that the governor had said that no more white men would be likely to come into this country. He also spoke of the murder of a white trader (whom he called " Yellow Coat,") by another white man, near Fort Kip, soon after we passed last summer. We have since ascertained that this was McKcnzie, shot by Clarke, of Sun river, in self-defence. " Broken Arm" told us that a large steamboat had gone up to Fort Benton. Some of this party recollected our Sioux interpreter, Antoine Frenier, although they had not seen him for nearly thirty years. I told the chiefs, in conclusion, that I would report to the Great Father at Washington all that they had said to me ; that they should stay with us that night, and not go away empty-handed in the morning. This last sen- tence elicited a loud and general "Ho!" — their exclamation signifying approval, greeting, and assent. The pipe went round before retiring to rest, and " Broken Arm" in the course of conversation told me that the road we were taking to Fort Benton Avas not good; there was very little grass, no water, and no buffa- loes. I should find the prairie burnt ahead of us. The road by the Missouri river was the best for the white man. I mentally resolved to keep my own course, as I have always found it best to do the exact reverse of what an Indian advised, under similar circumstances. August 9 — Sunday. — We remained in camp all day. Our guests breakfasted Avith us, and I afterwards shoAved them the effects of a shell from our hoAvitzer. The gun Avas considerably elevated, and the shell struck a distant mountain, ex- ploding and scattering fragments of rock around. The Indians Avere astonished; they endeavored to explain through Antoine their idea of a shell. They said that the big gun shot a little gun out of him, and that little gun Avent off of him- self Avhen he struck the mountain, doing much mischief. They did not like these big guns — " Shot too hard." Some of my boys shoAved them their breech-load- mg carbines, and Mr. Denslow (accompanying our party) exhibited a breech- loading rifle with seven charges in the stock. He fired these off, and asked them if he should shoot any more. They offered two ponies for this gun, seem- ing to think that it bred bullets, and that they could go on firing with it forcA'er. Dr. Dibb then gaA'e them medicine for their different complaints, with full direc- tions as to its use. I ordered some flour, coftee, sugar, tobacco, &c., to be issued to them, Avhich they distributed, and they shortl}^ after took their leave, having been told that this Avas a day of rest Avith us. The Assiniboines are an offshoot EXPEDITION OF CAPT. FISK TO THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 15 of the Sioux nation. They speak the same language. Frenier tells me that only a few words are different. They got their name from burning a number of Chippewa prisoners (in 1812) on a rock; Assini boine, in the Chippewa lan- guage, meaning "burnt rock." These chiefs who visited me were neatly dressed and well-behaved. Their followers wore buffalo robes, leggiris and moccasins, and were mostly armed with old muskets or shot-guns. They all rode small ponies. August 10. — We travelled over prairie country, past small, diy pools, and in the afternoon entered a chain of mountains, (afterwards ascertained to be the Wood mountains,) and camped at night near a spring in the middle of a nearly dry pond. Good grass and water, but no wood. August 11. — Our road lay through the coteau, and the train moved with ease by following the valleys. We nooned on a small lake, with good water and feed. In the afternoon we passed several saline lakes, perfectly dry, and theiv beds covered with salt. The cattle were frequently deceived by the ap- pearance of these lakes. Seen in the distance, glittering in the sun, it was almost impossible to believe there was no water in them. The prairie was very dry. In the evening we camped near a spring, with water and grass. A MAN LOST AND FOUND. Mr. Joseph Hamel, one of the guards, had not reached camp at supper time. He was on the right flank, some three miles distant from the train, and we sup- posed that he had got ahead of us and missed finding the trail. We fired the howitzer several times, hoisted a light on the highest mound near us, and sounded bugle-calls, all without success. We concluded that, finding night coming on, he had camped, and would retrace his course to-morrow until he came on our trail. He would doubtless suffer considerably in the mountains, as he had with him no overcoat or blanket. August 12. — Mr. Hamel came into camp this morning before breakfast. He stated that he heard one of our guns last night, but as he was evidently several miles distant from us, and night had closed in, he thought he had better Avait for daylight. At daybreak he went back until he found our trail, and then came direct to camp. Started at seven o'clock a. m., and a few miles out came upon a chain of saline lakes, in which the water was dried out, leaving the beds covered with a glistening surface of encrusted salts. The resemblance to ice and snow was perfect ; near shore the substance being transparent like clear ice, and in the centre white, as if covered with snow. We actually felt cold in looking at these lakes. Halted at noon near a marsh, with good water and grass, and at evening camped on a good-sized lake, where the water was slightly saline and feed only fair. A NEW LANDMARK. About two miles to the north of this camping place there is a steep, high mountain, the sides precipitous, and the top a mere ridge. On the summit is the figure of an elk, eight to nine feet long, cut in the ground. The Assini- boines, we learned subsequently, call this mountain Harakao-weran, or " Where the elk feeds." We found some scoria at the base. Its form is volcanic. Standing at the top of this mountain, the salt-covered beds of the dry saline lakes below stretched to the north and west as for as the eye could reach, giv- ing a wonderful wintry aspect to the scene. This eminence is a landmark for many miles. It is not more than fifteen miles, I believe, from the British line. Our party voted unanimously to name it " Mount Fisk." August 13. — Having discovered a fine spring, with excellent grass around it, about half a mile up a ravine leading to the lake where we were camped, I IG EXPEDITION OF CAPT. FISK TO THE KOCKY MOUNTAINS. moved the train there this morning, and halted for the day to recruit stock and for repairs. While scouting, two or three miles to the north of Mount Fisk, Lieutenant Johnston discovered an Indian watching him from a height of land, and brought him in, when he proved to be an Assiniboine, of Whirlwind's band. He had with him three squaws — his two wives and his mother-in-law. He said that he had been hunting buffalo in the mountains to the north. WOOD MOUNTAINS. When asked how far the mountain range extended in that direction, he re- plied that there was "no end to it; he had been travelling it for two or three weeks." He was now going to join his band, which he believed was near Fort Union. He was carrying his dried buffiilo meat in "travaires" drawn by large Avolf-dogs. His household goods were on a lean and sore-backed pony. He was a poor-looking Indian, and could give little intelligence as to the country west of us. August 14. — We travelled to-day through the valleys. Towards noon the mountain scenery around us was truly grand. To the south, the mountains rose like a wall to a great height, and were of a dull-grey color. To the north, they were shaped into most fantastic forms ; there were old castles with lofty walls and moiddering turrets, and circular pavilions, and domes, spires, »&c. — nature looking like scenes of art in ruins. The north view, as a whole, had all the appearance of a great Moslem city, with countless minarets, domes, and spires. These rocks were mostly a soft sandstone, and had probably been worn into such quaint shapes by the action of wind and water. We wound our way through the valleys without incident, and camped in the evening in a large valley, on a stream that we supposed to be the heaxl of the Big Muddy. The grass was good, and there were excellent springs. We found wood in the coules near by. ANTELOPE CREEK. August 15. — Took a west course through the mountains. The eighhts were lofty, but we found a fair road through the valleys, and in the afternoon camped in a ravine, on a small stream running south, which we named "Antelope creek," from the herds of that animal seen near it. The bed was almost dry, but we found sufficient water, though slightly saline, remaining in pools. Large flocks of wild geese rose from these pools on our approach. The grazing doAvn the valley was pretty good ; no wood. I should mention that we discovered in the channel of this stream pieces of lignite, that seemed to have drifted down ; it burned well. August 16 — Sunday. — Remained in camp all day. August 17. — Our road through the valleys to-day was good. The mountains were high, but not so precipitous as in the last two days of travel. Our course is a little south of west. We halted at noon near a small pool, with an excellent spring close by. Camped in the evening on Porcupine river, which was here from fifteen to twenty feet in width, with a depth of water varying from three to five feet. The first sight of this little river, after our day's travel, was most refi/eshing. The full, clear stream was bordered by grass, green as an emerald, and thickly dotted with flowers — daisies, lilac and white, marigolds, &c. Our approach startled a herd of graceful antelopes who were drinking at the river ; they dis- appeared like a cloud shadow from the landscape. From the appeai-ance of the country, there must have been recent heavy showers in these mountains. August 18. — Started at seven a. m. Forded Porcupine river with great ease; the bottom being gravelly, and the water about three feet deep. We travelled over the hills this morning without difiicidty, course west-southwest, and halted EXPEDITION OF CAPT. FISK TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 17 at noon on a small river. A short distance from onr camping place this stream divided into three forks, running from northAvest, Avest, and west-southwest. Grass and water excellent. The prairie was burnt between Porcupine river and where we nooned, but the fire had not extended beyond the above small stream. COAL. In the afternoon we followed the same course, and about seven miles from our uooning place, on the banks of a small river, discovered coal ; it was bituminous and burned well. The seam varied from ten to fifteen feet in thickness, cropped out on the face of the biuflF, and could be most readily worked. We camped in the evening in a valley on tlie banks of a small stream of pure running water. Good grass ; no wood. This is a noble valley, varying from one to two miles in width, with lofty mountains on either side. A clear stream runs through the centre, with excellent grazing on its banks. August 19. — Took a Avest course along the same valley, and halted at noon near a spring. In the afternoon we travelled about eight miles through the same valley, and then crossed or passed through the mountains, a little to the south of Avest, to a valley running almost parallel Avith the above, camping in the evening on a small river, about fifteen to tAA^enty feet Avide, and tAvo to three feet deep, Avith good grass. We saAv a few buffaloes to-day, and plenty of Avild geese. In the latter part of the day Ave crossed a large Indian trail going north. August 20. — Our road this morning was along the valley in Avhich A\^e camped last night. Our course was nearly Avest. We halted at noon near the head- waters of Porcupine river, Avitli excellent watei' and grass and timber in the adjacent coules. Not far from here we observed traces of a large Indian camp — about four hundred lodges — evidently left this spring. In the latter part of the day we descended from the elevated plateau on AA'hich Ave had been travelling for some time, and our road Avas over a rather rough country until the evening. We camped on a small stream almost dry. I killed a large buck antelope, at about two hundred and fifty yards, Avhich furnished our party with a good supper. August 21. — Train started at seA^en a. m., and moved through the mountains Avithout difiiculty. We struck the Little Porcupine river about thi-ee miles from our morning's camp, and camjied on the same stream at night, Avitli good feed and water. August 22. — We travelled through the mountains all the morning, and towards night passed down a long and narroAv coule to the banks of a large vStream, since ascertained to be Frenchman's fork of Milk river. The valley of this river is heavily timbered with cottonAvood, and the bottom covered Avith sage brush and poor grass. We found, however, sufficient picking for our cattle and horses. The bed of the river AA^as almost dry, but there was good water in the pools. The banks Avere high, and consisted of sand and whitish clay, easily washed doAvn. The stream, in some parts, had Avorn large holes in the bluffs, and there are very deep quicksands in the channel. This river varies in width from fifty to one hundred feet, and has the same general appearance as Milk river. It must be a perfect torrent in spring, as the bed is filled Avith large trees, and the AA^ater-marks on the mountains are very high. The scenery is most picturesque Avhere Ave struck the river; it is almost shut in by lofty bluffs, Avith immense boulders jutting out, and abounding in caverns; precipitous coulus descend to the valley, Avith small streams running doAvn them in cascades to the river. There are fine masses of cotton trees in the hollow. These trees often seem to have been planted artificially in clumps, and the general ap- pearance of the valley, as seen from the heights, is that of a park. We camped on the bank, and made a famous supper of a buffalo cow. The fat Avas three inches thick on the hump, and was as sweet as marroAV. This afternoon, Avhilst H. Ex. Doe. 45 2 18 EXPEDITION OF CAPT. FISK TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. moving through a large herd of buffiiloes, one of our dogs worried an old bull until he charged on the train, passing between two yoke of cattle, and snapping the chain in two. This caused somewhat of a "scare" among the teamsters, and some of our mule teams were inclined to run away. There is abundance of good dry wood near this evening's camp. I should note that the night was very cold, ice formed on some water in a pail to the thickness of one-half inch. Angust 23 — Sunday. — We remained in camp all day. Professor Hesse took an observation to-day, and found that we were in latitude 48° 46' 7". I rode out with Dr. Dibbs this morning to explore the country ahead of us, and to ascertain the best route for the train to Milk river, which I supposed to be about twenty miles distant. After riding nearly twenty miles in a southwest direction, we saw the Milk river winding through the valley below us, and the Little Rocky and Bear's Paw mountains in the distance. We discovered a practicable road for wagons, and returned to camp at sunset, having ridden between forty and fifty miles. There were some remarkable caves in and about this strange chasm. August 24. — Crossed Frenchman's fork, and ascended the heights to the south, working our way through the coules ; the road was rough, but I took a ioM pioneers ahead, and Avith a little grading in parts, removing large stones, &c., the train passed through without accident. We nooned near the river ; in the afternoon 1 ravelled over a rough, hilly country, and camped at night near the same stream, with tolerable grass, good spring, and plenty of cottonwood in a neighboring ravine. OLD LANDMARKS L\ SIGHT. Atigust 25. — The train crossed some rough hills this morning, but by a little grading we moved easily through the ravines. We came in sight of Milk river about eleven a. m., the Little Rocky and Bear's Paw mountains being just discernible, and resembling clouds on the edge of the horizon. My last year's party saAV these mountains for the first time on the afternoon of the same day, (August 25.) We descended to Milk river, crossed a few miles to the west of Frenchman's fork, and camped at noon a short distance up the stream. The river bed is here about one hundred and fifty feet wide, and is nearly dry. There is, however, tolerable water remaining in the pools. The grass is very poor. Plenty of wood ; fine groves of cotton trees running along the river banks. THE OLD TRAIL A MAN LOST, ETC. The plain around our camp was covered with prickly pears ; they were just ripe, and much resembled gooseberries ; we ate heartily of them. We noticed towards sunset that j\Ir. Major (one of our party) had not come into camp. He had started in the morning to walk on, and we supposed that he might have crossed Milk river to the west of us, and struck the " old trail," as two of our scouts who have just come in report that they have discovered last year's tracks about three miles further on, and that a train has recently travelled over them. Hence jMr. M;ijor may have thought that we were ahead of him, and have con- tinued his journey. I had our howitzer fired several times at sunset, to recall Mr. Major, but without avail. GROS VENTRES INDIANS IN CAMP. This evening, after sundown, thirteen Indians, on horseback, dashed through the woods opposite to us, crossed the river, and rode into camp, their gaily em- broidered robes, scarlet leggins and plumes, giving them a picturesque and martial appearance by the light of our camp fires. They turned out to be " Gros Ventres." AVe had no interpreter, but they made us understand by EXPEDITION OF CAPT. FISK TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 19 signs that they had heard our guns, Avhere they were camped a few inilcf: ofi", on the other side of the river, and had come to stay with us until the morning. We gave them some supper, and they then sat in a circle, endeavoring to con- verse with us. Their language is tlie most extraordinary and uncouth that can be imagined. It is guttural, and seems to consist of a cough, a groan, a grunt, a, whistle, and a "tst tst." They never speak a syllable distinctly, but appear to arrest the half-formed words in their throats. Mr. Meldram (agent at Fort Union) has been many years among them, and cannot speak their language ;, he says he believes that it is almost impossible for a white man to learn it. The Sioux, on the contrary, pronounce every syllable slowly and distinctly ; it is easy to catch the sound. Their language is musical and sonorous. Our "Gros Ventres" guests passed round their long pipe filled with Kiunikinnick. The mixture that the mountain Indians smoke is one dialf tobacco and one-half '^uva wrsa,^' a small-leaved evergreen, of a pleasant smell and taste, and an astringent. It is found in the mountains. The chief of this band was, I believe, "Little Lame Buffalo," a large Indian, wearing a Scotch cap with a white skin by way of plume. These Indians were clean, tolerably well dressed, and rode pretty good ponies. They had two squaws with them. One of the " bucks" wore a buckskin hunting shirt, beautifully embroidered with bead work, and had his hair plaited in a long cue that hung down his back, and was fastened with a large and bright metal circlet. Three out of the eleven males, including the chief, were lame, and Dr. Dibbs says that the whole tribe are terribly diseased. Our guard at night kept the " redskins" in their circle, as we could see that they had a great love for horseflesh, and admired our American horses im- mensely. One of our "boys" offered them two plugs of tobacco for a saddle, which they refused. A little skinny Indian shortly afterwards went up to " Shorty's" mare, (a good one,) looked at her teeth, and smilingly offered her owner one plug of tobacco for her. " Shorty," I am afraid, used some rather strong language on the occasion. August 20. — Left camp at 7 a. m. I abandoned a large government wagon here, as the load, consisting of commissary stores, &;c., could now be easily packed in the other Avagons, and the mules were in rather poor condition. I explained to our "Gros Ventre" friends that they must not touch this wagon; that white men were coming for it. I do not believe they will disturb anything; they seemed to imderstand me. Struck the old "trail" about 2 J or 3 miles from camp, amidst much rejoicing, and took the same road as last year. The only thing that marred our pleasure was the continued absence of Mr. Major; he Avas thinly clad, had no blanket, and very little ammunition ; besides this, he is a man past the middle age, and the night was very cold. I this morning sent three scouts back to our yes- terday's camping place, two scouts along the high bluffs on the opposite side of Milk river, two through the bottom on the other bank of the river, two fol- lowing its course on this side, and two ahead of the "trail;" all had food and water for the missing man. THE iVlIS-SlXG FOUND. Halted at noon near a dry lake, 11 miles out, with no water or wood; grazing poor. In the afternoon we left the road, and travelled a little north of west, in search of grass and water. We found an excellent spring and good grass, six miles from where we moved, and camped for the night. Mr. M{)jor was brought into camp at half past 12 o'clock tiiis night, by the two scouts that we sent ahead on the road, Messrs. Johnston and Miller. They report that they rode sixteen miles from where we moved to the second cross- ing of Milk river. Soon after leaving us they observed in the sand fresh tracks crossing the road, which they identified as Mr. Major's; these tracks were not 20 EXPEDITION OF CAPT. FISK TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. seen again, however, on the wagon road, and the grass was so dry tliat it was impossible to follow the trail. On arriving at the " crossing" the scoixts, supposing' tliat Mr. M. must be somewhere back, near the trail, decided to return. After riding three or four miles, towards dusk, they suddenly came on a dark object lying on the ground near the road. It proved to be Mr. Major. His first cry was "water;" after giving him a canteen full of tea, they got him on one of their horses and took him back to near where we halted at noon, then they followed our new tracks and came towards camp. Meeting some of the other scouts, they sent two of them ahead, and I immediately despatched the flag-wagon with a supply of provisions and water. His constant cry was for water; he had not drunk since 10 a. m. of the previous day, nearly two days, and had travelled day and night, hoping to overtake us. He could hardly speak. His tongue and throat w^ere parched and furred, and he stated that he had kept pebbles in his mouth to endeavor to cause a flow of saliva. GRISI.IES AND SNAKES. Dr. Gibb and myself, shooting at the word, killed a famous grisly bear near the river to-day ; he weighed some nine hundred ponnds, and was excel- lent. We killed two rattlesnakes during the day; one three feet long, with nine rattles ; the other four feet, with eleven rattles. There was a large camp of the Gros Ventres near our nooning place, and some of the Indians were rather pressing in their invitations to two of our scouts to visit their camp, taking hold of the bridles of the horses. They, however, shook them off. Doubtless the motive of the Indians was mainly curiosity. August 21. — Travelled over a rolling prairie to the second crossing of ]\Iilk river; the ford was good, with a hard gravelly bottom; not much grass; water scarce ; plenty of cottonwood and willows. AVe followed the road in the afternoon, and camped in the evening on Milk river, with very indifferent grazing, but abundance of wood. After crossing the river I fir(;d at a young- grisly bear, which was digging roots, and wounded him, but he got away into a dense wood on the river's edge. About a dozen of the guard surrounded the thicket and sent in one of our dogs. Very soon Ave heard the barking of the dog, and cry of "Here! here he is!" In a moment the bear bounded past through the timber, with mouth open, taking great leaps like a tiger, the dog pursuing him closely. The "boys" fired several shots at him without effect, the trees growing very close together, and he got away into the river, taking a flying leap over the willows, which were seven or eight feet high. TIm; day has been very warm. August 28. — Road was nearly all day in the bottom, and we again camped in the evening on Milk river. Grass poor; abundance of wood and water. The doctor killed a black-tailed deer; and our party brought in hares, sage hens, &c., &c. August 29. — We travelled over a good level road, near the river, all day, crossing two or three small streams, mostly dry, and camped at night on Milk river. The hills on our right were rough and broken. The doctor brought in a wild goose, prairie chickens, and other game ; and our boys shot three buffaloes and a fat doe. Again been very warm to-day. August 31) — Sunday. — Remained in camp. Our supper to-day will furnish a good specimen of the privations of camp life — venison, buffalo steaks, wild goose, prairie chickens, &c., with " Worcester sauce," good hot bread, siru|>, tea, coffee, &c. ; pretty good living for the wilderness. August 2\. — The road was near Milk river, and was heavy and sandy in some parts. Most of the low land near this river is sandy, and covei'cd with sage brush ; the grass is scanty, although there is pretty good feed, in patches, amons the cottonwood trees that line the stream. EXPEDITION OF CAPT. FISK TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 21 In the afternoon the road was over a more rolling- prairie, and the ground was firmer. W(^ had a fine view of the Little Rocky mountains, to our left, crossed 0-mut-pa-pa-sha river, named after Mr. jMeldrura, last year, and camped on Two Lances river, so called in honor of i\Ir. M.'s Blackfoot wife. iMEKT THE FIRST WillTE MEM. Near our nooning place we met six teams, and seventy-five or eighty oxen, belonging to Colonel Hunkins, of Bannock City. They were going down to Fort St. Charles, on the Missouri river, for a steam engine and two quartz mills, which the colonel is about to erect at Bannock, for crushing the gold quartz found near there. The gentleman in charge of this train stated that when they left Bannock City, in June last, business was good, and the mines were yield- ing well, but the new gold discoveries at Stinking Water (about 65 miles north- east of Bannock) were drawing most of the population in that direction, as the placer diggings were far richer than at the Bannock mines. Already fifteen miles of claims were being worked at Stinking Water. This place got its name from the sulphur water of some springs near which it is located. Provisions at the mines Avere lower than they were in the spring. Governor Wallace was ex- pected at Bannock City when they left. Septemher 1. — Travelled to-day ten miles, and halted at noon on Milk river, to rest the stock. There was a fine grove of cottonwo'od trees near, and good grass and water. Hepicmher 2. — The road to-day was over a rolling prairie ; crossed Milk river (third crossing) at a good ford, and halted at noon on a bend of same river. In the afternoon we travelled over a high prairie, the road leaving the river in a southwesterly direction, the Little Rocky mountains being on our left. We found a fine spring at the foot of a lofty isolated peak. This mountain was covered with scoria, and its formation was decidedly volcanic. Passed to-day numerous prairie dog villages. These are large tracts of land without a blade of grass, as the prairie dogs destroy the roots ; the ground is full of their holes, in which they keep up an incessant barking, which is like the sound produced by children's toy dogs. These little animals somewhat resemble the ground squirrel, but have larger bodies and smaller tails. Camped in the evening on Beaver creek, with good water, grass, and wood. September 3. — Travelled over a good road to Box Elder creek, a tributary of Milk river. Passed the Bear's Paw mountains to-day ; they are a rugged chain of mountains stretching from Milk river to the Missouri. One of these mount ains is cleft at the top, where there is a deep hollow ; it is evidently an extinct crater; this is a great hiding place for war parties of Indians. TRAIN FROM BA\NUCK CITY. The Three Buttes were in sight to-day. We met a very large ox train at Box Elder creek, belonging to the American Fur Company, and Mr. Vander- burg, of Virginia City, the new name for Stiidving Water ; sent Lieutenant Johnson and Autoine Freuier to Fort Benton this morning, to get shoes made for the horses, and to prepare sundry supplies for the party. I learned from the freighters to-day that wagons can pass through the Bear's Paw range to the Missouri, without much difficulty. Sej)te?nber 4. — Crossed Big Sandy river, five and a half miles, good water and grass, and travelled twenty miles over the long prairie to the springs, where we camped. The long prairie is high and level, and the road over it is excellent, but there is no water from Big Sandy to the springs. At our eve- ning's camp we found water and pretly good grazing, but no wood. Met here ' Mr. Vanderberg, (whose train we passed yesterday,) and obtained some valuable nformation from him with regard to the Virginia City mines. 22 EXPEDITION OF OAPT. FI8K TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. MARIAS PaVER. September 5. — Our road Avas ovor a high rolling prairie, to tho ]\Iarias river. The descent to the valley is very steep ; the view from the heights is splendid; the river flows through heavy masses of cottonwood, and the bottoms are cov- ered with fresh luxuriant grass ; the stream is rapid, clear, and cold, flowing over a pebbly bottom. Where we saw it it was about one hundred feet wide, and two to three feet deep. Bluffs rise on either side of the valley to the height of two or three hundred feet. This is a beautiful valley, and an admirable camping place. I had the pleasure of meeting Mr. Dawson, superintendent of Fort Benton, the American Fur Company's trading post. Mr. Dawson received us with the utmost courtesy and cordiality ; he was following his train to the mouth of Milk river, and was accompanied by most of the employes of the company ; . he, however, furnished me with letters to Mr. Steel, in charge of the fort, en- suring us every facility and accommodation that we might require. TETON RIVER. September G. — We left camp at 8 a. m., and followed the valley of the Marias river to the Teton rivei', camping at 11 a. m., in the valley of that stream, about four miles from Fort Benton. This valley resembles that of Marias river, in all respects ; Ave found abundance of grass, Avater, and Avood. FORT BENTON. Our camp on the Teton river Avas the nearest one to Fort Benton. My offi- cial relations AA'ith the emigrants ceased at that place, and, having brought my little party in safety so fav, Ave fired a salute from the hoAvitzer, and gaA'e three hearty ch'eers in honor of the occasion. It Avill be noticed that Ave reached this point on the same day of month and year as on the first trip. September 7. — Rode over to Fort Benton, where we were most politely re- ceiA^ed by Mr. Steel, Avho was in charge of the post; we obtained here some necessary supplies for our ouAvard journey to the Rocky mountains, got shoes made for the horses and miiles, &c. Fort Benton is on the north bank of the Missouri, near the Great Falls; the river at this ]>oint is perfectly clear, and, AAhcn Ave saAv it, Av^as from 300 to 500 feet wide, and about three feet deep. The ^larias empties into the Missouri riA-er 12, and the Milk 200 miles beloAv. The Missouri is muddy after receiving the Milk river, so named from the color of its Avaters, Avhich are charged Avith the Avhitc clay and sand composing its banks. The fort is near the river, on a Avide grassy plain, surrounded by high bluffs ; the heights on the opposite side of the river are picturesque The buildings are of adobe (sun-dried brick) and wood; the Avhole are surrounded by an adobe Avail, 15 to 20 feet in height, and the entrance is by large and strong gates. This fort is a trading post of the American Fur Company. There are tAvo other posts a short distance up the river, both of Avhich are now owned by the company. The principal trade is with the Blackfeet and other Indians, but, from the large number of emigrants and others passing through here to and from the gold mines of the Rocky mountains, it is probable the chief trade, in future, Avill be Avitli the mines. As previously mentioned, most of the company's employes had gone down the river with Mr. Dawson, leaving here their Blackfeet wiA^es and their chil- dren. Met here several freighters, &c., from Bannock and Virginia cities, Avho were coming doAvn the Missouri for goods, as the steamer, not being able to reach Fort Benton this year, owing to the extraordinary drought, had landed her freight at Shre\'eport, and other points lower doAvn. We got late intelligence from these gentlemen, shoAving the wonderful richness of the Virginia City EXPEDITION OF CAPT. FISK TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 23 placer diggings. Fini.-ilied shoeing horses and mules, and packed our supplies and baggage in light wagons. At 2 p. m. I sold at auction our heavy Avagons, tents, stores, &c. In the evening I assembled the emigrants and guard, to take my forewell. Thanking the emigrants tor their hearty co-operation on the trip, and the cheer- fulness with which they had complied with all the regulations of the camp and the march, I then expressed to the guard ray sense of the zeal and faithful- ness with which they had discharged their duties. Owing to their small num- ber, the guard duty had been hea\y whilst passing through the Sioux country. Rev. John Torbits presented me with a letter signed by all the emigrants, expressing their approval of my conduct, good wishes, &c. I also received a letter of affection and good will from the guard, which I shall always highly prize. In accordance with instructions, the escort was disbanded at this place, but about twenty will accompany me to the mountains as teamsters, herders, guard, &c., with the stock, which I shall dispose of at Bannock City or Walla- Walla. After bidding farewell to the emigrants, we started, passing Fort Benton, and taking Captain Mullan's road leading to the high slopes soutlnvest of the fort. From the lofty table-land over which the road passes, wc had a fine view of the Belt mountains, on the opposite side of the Missouri; passed a large party of miners going north to the Saskatchewan river. The gold mines recently discovered there are said to be x-ich. Travelled over a high rolling prairie to "the springs" and camped. SU,M RIVER GOAT FARM, ETC. September 10. — This day we travelled to Sun river; halted at noon at "the pond;" road excellent. Sun river has its source in the main range of the Rocky mountains, about latitude 48°, and flows into the Missouri, eight or nine miles above the falls. It is a pretty little stream of clear cold water, abounding with fish, and its banks are clothed with cottonAvood and willows. The valley is covered with rich grass, and possesses a rich soil and a mild climate. Septemhei- 11. — Moved to the crossing of the river, and camped near the government farm, Blackfoot agency. The farm was in charge of j\Ir. Clark, Mr. Vail (who was placed here by Major Reid, Indian agent) having left for the Baiuiock City gold mines. The buildings here are in pretty good order, but there is hardly any stock left. Many large fields have been under cultiva- tion here, and wheat, oats, and all kinds of vegetables have been raised. There is a fine view of "Crown Butte" from this place. This mountain is on the other side of Sun river, and lias somewhat the appearance of a crown, being oval in shape, almost perpendicular near the summit, and capped with irregular turrets. The Catholic mission (Jesuit) is about 15 miles from here. Mr. Clark states that the fathers have not been able to effect much with the Black- feet as yet, but are working hard. The Flatheads, however, (according to Clark,) are all Christians; they have given up polygamy, and, as he said, are honest, good Indians. We met one of the fathers of the Blackfeet mission at Fort Benton. They seem to be universally respected there. The Jesuit Catholic fathers have three missions in the mountains — the above-mentioned near Sun river, one among the Pend d'Oreilles and Flatheads, and one among the Cfeur d'Alenes. September 12. — Crossed Sun river, passed "Crown Butte," and camped in the evening near Bird-tail rock. This mountain derives its name from its remark- able resemblance, at the summit, to the spread tail of a bird. Water and grass are good, and there is abundance of wood on to-day's travel. September 13. — We travelled over a hilly country to the Dearborn river, 24 EXPEDITION OF CAPT. FISK TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. passing between mountains which were spurs of the main Rocky mountain range, and ran nearly northeast and southwest. There are some iine tracts of arable land south of Bird-tail rock. DEARBORN RIVER. The Dearborn rises in the main range of the mountains, and flows over a rocky bed. It is a fine mountain stream of clear water, and where we struck it, was from 50 to 100 feet in width, Avith a deptli of about 2 feet. The river was, however, very low this summer ; during the spring freshets it cannot be fordable. Tiie banks are covered with cottonwood trees, and there is excellent grass in the bottoms. The view in the little valley where we camped was very beautiful. We i)itchcd our tents under a grove of trees; the sparkling stream dashed over rocks before us, whilst a fresh green prairie stretched to the mountains, which rose in our rear like a wall. The sunset was magnificent. We caught some trout in the river, which, with game brought in by the rest of the party, furnished us with a good hunter's supper. ROAD ACiENTS. While riding down to the Dearborn this morning, ahead of the trains, accom- panied by Dr. Dibb, Lieutenant Johnston, and Antoine Frenier, all of us dressed in buckskin suits, fully armed, and probably looking somewhat ''wild," we observed a man riding up a ravine leading to the river, and put spurs to our horses to intercept him, as we thought that he Avas coming from Bannock City, and we wished to get news from there. The stranger, catching sight of ns, rode up very slowly, looking somewhat pale and scared. Suddenly recognizing Lieutenant Johnston, he greeted him with great cordiality, having, it appears, met him at Fort Benton. He then asked us to help him look for his purse, which he had thrown away in the grass, taking us for "road agents," i. e. highwaymen ; after considerable search, we found his bag of gold dust, containing about $3,000. Septcmhcr 14. — Our road to-day was through the valley of the Little Prickly Pear, mostly following the course of the creek. The valley where we entered it was about half a mile wide, liut it soon narrowed into a rocky cafion, with lofty heights on either hand, barely leaving room for the road, which crossed the stream twenty-one times. The scenery in this canon is very picturesque ; many of the rocks rise almost perpendicularly to the height of 500 or 700 feet, whilst the road winds along the river through noble groves of cottonwood and aspen. The mountains are well wooded with pine. The Little Prickly Pear is a clear mountain stream rising in the main range of the Rocky mountains, and flowing into the Missouri above the Dearborn river. We camped in the evening near Prickly Pear spur, about two miles from the " crossing," with good grass, water, and wood. Met several ti'ams from Virginia City going down to the Missouri. Septonhcr 15. — Crossed Prickly Pear spur — road very hilly, but good — and ascended Medicine Rock mountain. This was the worst part of the road, and will recjuire considerable working to make it good. morgan's RANCH GOLD QUARTZ, ET( . Reached Morgan's ranch, on Little Prickly Pear creek, without accident, and camped ; grass, water, and wood excellent. On Medicinal Rock we saw quartz for the first time ; it crops out near the summit of the mountain ; there are indications of gold here. The pines were much larger on this day's journey than any we had yet met with, and the uva ursa covered the mountain tops. This evergreen has a small oval" leaf of a dark green, and bears a red berry. It grows close to the ground, EXPEDITION OF CAPT. FI8K TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 25 seacling- out i