Class ^ Book _^ COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT <^ //m WE nmw nnmt OF MASSACHUSETTS BAY. GUIDE AND HISTORY or MARBLEHEAD, SALEM NECK AND JUNIPER POINT, BEVERLY, AND CAPE ANN. BY Benjamin D. Hill and Winfield S. Nevins. SALEM, MASS. FEINTED AT THE SALEM PRESS. 1879. // II '.' > PBAa*»yii 227 AND 229 ESSEX STREET, SALEM, MASS. EabiFS 3?upnis|ing (Joohs ©F iViPY VARrjgTY. Watches, Jewelry, and. Fancy Goods, SILVER PLATED TABLE WARES. Hosieiy, QTove^, doi>^et^, L(kce>s, Black Dress Goods a Specialty. Silks, Cashmeres, Alpacas, Prints, Demins, Cottons, &c. Our Stock is the Best, and our Prices the Lowest^ EXAMINE BEFORE BUYING. JOHN.-P: PEABODY. ^1 V' ^(mg, ^iuelow 1 1|}4to OFFER A STJX'Eie/B stock: ia each of the 22 departments of their store. m Jm fADIES' SURNISHING loODS, ^i^«]eiiti:0S^ Sci^ PR.ICES AS XuO^W as at any store in the State. «fio^ &^ C?i| 188 ESSEX STREET, SALEM. BOSTOlSr. The locHtion of the House is particularly desirable to the Summer Tourists. Horse Cars to all parts of the city and places of in- terest in the immediate suburbs pass the door. The house has always been the resort of the most Eminent Citizens and distinffuished Statesmen of this Country nnd of the Nobility, Diplomatic and Artist Celeb- rities of Europe. The rates haie recently been reduced to 0^.M& m^^W) $^MQ> ^mm smr^ Excepting Front Rooms and Rooms with Baths. Notwithstanding the reduction in prices the hitherto unrivalled excellence of the Table will be strictly main- tained. CHAS. B. FERRIN, Prop. THE LEADING ESTABLISHMENT IN ESSEX CO., occiipying the best business location in Salem, is (UNDER FIRST GHTJRCH,) COE. ESSEX & WASHINGTO]!^ STS., SALEM, Waltham Watches at Wholesale Prices. STERLING SILVER WARE, Jet, Siim, SlieU and Pancy Jew'eiry, comSs, Spectacles, Eye Classes, &c. FIN-E GJ-OODS .^T ILiO^W^ P»RICES. DJSLITZBZi ZiOlSr, SPECIAL FBICES FOU LABQE OEDEItS OE COITTEACTS. Ul « 1^ 3 £ C8 •;:- CL « ? i:aT< ST. .OERMAM tr V) -n H (^ O > « (n n C3 •!> (n 7^ OQ n m III T 33 H o X c _^ m y H O rD r ' (m < m m w m 77 3 (/) < TO ^ o O^ :^ _^ o 3 fi> - 6 0» m - o 5- H =5 B> T w < 3 m BJ n> a. ^ U) O w (D m CO 5 ^ <_ H 0> rr 2 in -n o J3 C B> Ml o < zn o XI (II <■ •< rn u (/> AG-JiJSTd iOK, THE bALE OF TKE TJ3^i03sr wiEis 131 j^ ivr nvc o c ic , TB^i; STRONGEST AND CHEArEST MADE. Agents for Olrey's I'atent Tocket Flasks. Camping conveniences. ANGLERS will flnd everytliing for flsiiiiig of the most reliable qualitj', of all kinds and styles. Rods made of Split Bamboo. Greenlieart. Lance- wood, etc.. Reels of RublxT, Brass, German Silver and Nickel plated, for Trout, Bass, Salmon, etfc. Artificial Fi.iKS for all waters, own patterns and dressing. Special flies made to order. Everything that is new and choice in the way of FrsHiNG Tackle. TRAVELERS' ARTICLES, such as Luncheon Baskets, Flasks, Tele- scopes, Pocket Compasses, Yaclit Compasses, &c. Razors. Dressing Cases, Traveling Cases, Sportsmen's Knives. FANCY HARDWARE in endless variety. Small Steel Wares. Xo, 374 Washington Street, opposite Bronifield St., Boston, Orders by mail receive prompt attention. _^3 INTRODUCTORY. When Roger Conant, that observing pioneer, sailed along the Cape shore from Gloucester to the mouth of the Naumkeag river he saw the coast was one of no common beauty. To his penetrating glance was revealed a landscape of fresh and charming lines, the foreground a picturesque coast, the distance filled by undulating hills that lay soft hidden in the blue of a bright summer morning. Conant was de- lighted. Seeking a spot where religion should be as free as the air around, could he do better than plant a colony where every influence of nature sec- onded his pious purpose? Intolerance and bigotry could hardly find place when every idling wind placed its veto on slavery to anything. Conant needed no second thought, and with the readiness of a man who apppreciates, he at once moved a por- tion of his little colony to the mouth of the Naum- keag. What Roger Conant gloried in, two hundred and fifty years ago, strikes the observer to-day with the same gentle force ; whether he sails along the coast or travels the centre of the Cape by the Eastern Railway to Salem, Marblehead, and Beverly Imrbors, acres of tin}^ forests, little villas like diamonds in rich natural settings, broad and undulating fields, glimpses of the sea, each and all contribute to paint a picture for the traveler that can scarce fade from his memory. From Newport to Portland a more dainty bit of natural beauty it would be hard to find. And visitors to the north shore of Massachu- setts bay, let them come when they may, never leave it without the resolve to return. How charm- ingly Higginson has written of it in his Oldport Days, and 3'et the immortalit}^ conferred on it there has not made it known to the large mass of readers ; for Higginson wrote as a poet, and the practical part, the unpoetic part of this life, is wanting. Had he supplied this, no special pleading for our beloved Cape would have been needed. And while we do not presume to place ourselves on a level with that distinguished writer, we trust the work we submit to the public in all modesty may fill their needs and satisfy their thirst for knowledge. Woven with a description of the localities the reader will find the more interesting events of their histories, and, while not overlooking the needs and certain aims of a guide book, we have endeavored to obliterate as much as possible the dry matter-of-factness of such productions. Copyright by Benjamin D. Hill and WinPIEld S. Nevins, in the Library of Congress, Washington, D. C. bT MARBLEHEAD. The Neck.— Clifton House.— Old Landmarks. As a summer resort Marblehead is unsurpassed on the New England coast. Its bold and rocky shores extending far out into the open sea, its cool, pure, and invigorating air, its irregular cliffs, its green fields, its beautiful slopes* and its pleasant roads, make it a perfect paradise for such as seek genuine rest and recreation ; and those who visit the place, and among them are many of wealth and cul- ture, come for this purpose. The peninsula known as Marblehead Great Neck is one and a quarter miles ill length and about a half mile in width at the widest point. It is a part of the grand historic old town of Mar- blehead. Just before tlie first gun of the Revolution was fired a company of "British regulars" was stationed on its heights to overawe the people of the town and to com- pel compliance with the restrictions which the British Government was attempting to enforce. But although the place was cool and airy, the Marblehead boys who afterwards composed the "amphibious regiment" of Col. Glover made it so uncomfortably warm for them that they soon deemed it expedient to evacuate. The Neck is con- nected with the main land by a narrow isthmus, along which the sea itself has constructed one of the firmest foundations for a highway by washing up a vast line of boulders. In a storm the sea beats upon the ocean side with tremendous force. There can hardly be conceived a grander sight than is witnessed on this neck when a southeaster gets at work in earnest. The ledges exposed MABBLEHEAD. to the ocean are high, and in several places channels have been worn into them — one known as the Churn and another as the Spouting- Horn — into which the water is driven in storms with such tremendous force as to throw the spray and water often more than one hundred feet into the air. The Neck is bounded on the one side by Massachusetts Bay and on the other side by Marblehead Harbor. It comprises every variet}' of shore. Its area is about 300 acres. In the centre, or nearly so, between the pasture hills, is a meadow where grow a large variety of the most fragrant and beautiful wild flowers in the greatest profusion. The harbor, which is on the northwesterly side, is a half mile wide and is one of the deepest on the coast, having five fathoms of water at low tide. It is pronounced the best yacht harbor in New England. On this account mainly, many yachtsmen are settling at the Neck. It is a tine sight on a summer day to see the harbor alive with yachts and small boats, and in the evening, "when the lamps are lighted," the town and boats present a fairy-like scene. The view across the harbor is peculiarly attractive. There in plain sight (a very bird's-eye view) lies the quaint old town on its foundation of porphyry and granite — the most pictu- resque town in the Commonwealth, if not in all America; to look upon which reminds the traveler of two-century- old cities he has seennestling'around some harbor on the shores of the Mediterranean. There too, are those sombre old Marblehead wharves, as solid as the foun- dation on which stands the town. There, also, to the eastward, is Peach's Point, and on one side of it Port Sewall, still maintained as a fortification under the care of a gentlemanly sergeant. The view along the coast and out to sea is grand in the extreme, taking in a full sweep of old ocean. In full view on the harbor side are MABBLEHEAD. ' Beverly, Manchester, and Gloucester shores, Thatcher's Island, Eastern Point, Board man's Point and Baker's Isl- and light-houses, Marblehead light near the point of the Neck, and on the ocean side, Swampscott, Lynn, Nahant, and the South Shore, Egg Rock light, Minot's Ledge and the other outer lights of Boston Harbor. The bathing facilities are very good, although there is no high rolling surf. As for fishing, the sea perch may be caught from almost any point on the shore, and cod and other large fish by rowing a short distance. The drives both on the Neck and about the town generally are very fine. A splendid highway encircles the entire terri- tory of the Neck, afi"ording one of the grandest drives on the New England coast. On the main land the roads through Marblehead, Swampscott, Lynn, Nahant, along Atlantic avenue. Ocean street, and Nahant beach can hardly be surpassed in attractiveness. In the other direc- tion the drives to Salem, where all its historic points may * be visited, thence along the Beverly and Cape Ann shore, are equally pleasant. Some twenty years ago attention was attracted to the Neck as an agreeable summer resort. A road was built along the causeway and many lots were sold for summer residences. The greater part of the land belonged to the estate of Ephraim Brown, deceased, and the remainder to Isaac C. Wyman, Esq., who is now one of the trustees of the Brown property with Hon. William D. Northend and George F. Flint, Esq. For some time the sale of building sites and the settlement of the place was suspended on account of disputed claims. But full settlement of all controversies was made in 1878, and under the energetic management of the trustees named, sales of building lots to the amount of more than $40,000 have been made since October, 1878. The placing of prices of lots at a reason- MABBLEHEAD. able rate has contributed much to this remarl^able suc- cess. Most of the lots sold by the present trustees are from one-half acre to three acres each. It has been and is the desire of the trustees that the estate be sold in good-sized lots, so that the place may not become too crowded for comfort ; but smaller lots are sold in partic- ular sections. The arrangements for streets and for drainage are ample. The distance from the entrance upon the Neck to Devereux station on the Swampscott branch railway is about three-quarters of a mile. Barges connect with all the trains during the summer mouths. Many of the residents prefer, however, to reach the cars by crossing the harbor in boats (and there are regular ferrymen), which takes about ten minutes, and thence walking through the town about one-half mile to the Mar- blehead depot. Frequent trains run to Boston over the Swampscott branch by way of Lynn and over the Marble- head branch via Salem. The running time between Mar- blehead and Boston is about fifty-five minutes by either route. There are a very large number of never failing springs of the purest water on the Neck. Ice, milk, veg- etables and provisions of all kinds are supplied daily from wagons from the town. The healthfulness of Marblehead Neck is proverbial. Many years ago it was peopled with farmers. One very old lady, who had passed nearly all her days here, finally moved over to town. On being asked why she had left the Neck she replied : *'I wish to die sometime, and people never die on the Neck ; its too healthy there." The society on the Neck is of the best. A fine hall has been erected principally through the exertions of the young people, which is used on week-days and evenings for social gatherings, amateur theatricals and dancing, and on Sundays for religious purposes. There are about MABBLEHEAD. fifty cottages here, some quite extensive, and two board- ing houses. It is expected that ten or twenty new resi- dences will be erected the present season. The shore around the Neck is reserved to public uses; that is, no purchaser of shore-lots is given control of the beaches or cliffs. Beside the peninsula, in close prox- imity, are two islands, one Marblehead rock near the point, on which, it is said, the pulpit of the Old South Church of Boston reposes ; the other, Tinker island at the opposite end. On leaving the Neck we pass the well-known Devereux estate and mansion, near the depot. Then follow- ing Atlantic avenue, a broad highway recently laid out, we pass the little Peabody settlement and leave the town of Marblehead just beyond the Clifton House. This house, one of the oldest and most popular in the vicinity, is managed by Mr. Benj. P. Ware Jr. It will accommodate 125 persons. A large vegetable and fruit farm extending back of the hotel supplies fresh fruit and vegetables, and a premium herd of thoroughbred Ayrshire cows furnish an abundance of milk. This farm is one of the best in Essex County. Mr. Ware himself is a prominent member of the Mass. Horticultural Society and president of the Essex Agricultural Society. Connected with the house are billiard room and bowling alley, croquet grounds and a grove. A good beach directly in front affords excellent and safe bathing and boating. Fish may be cajaght from the rocks or in boats off the shore. The house stands on high land, within ten rods of the broad ocean, and commands a view of Massachusetts bay, enlivened by the numerous shipping passing to and from Boston harbor, and also a view of four light-houses. The shores of Nahant, Nantasket and Cohasset are visible, and with the various islands of the bay, present, under certain MABBLEHEAD. atmospheric conditions, wonderful and beautiful mirage effects resembling the palisades on the Hudson. The rocks on this northern shore offer an interesting study to the geologist, from their strange formations. A particu- larly interesting feature near the Clifton House, is " Gun Rock," a singular crevice four feet wide and ten feet deep, extending fifty feet into the rock, through which the waves are forced, at times, spouting some sixty feet high with a loud report like a gun. CUFIOX HOLSE. On the other side of the village, along the shore, is the Crowningshield estate with several pretty residences, and on the Salem harbor side is the elegant residence of Hon. J. J. H. Gregory, the well-known seed-man. Marbleheacl being one of the oldest towns in the state, has much historical interest. It was deeded to the early settlers by the Indians in 1684, for the sum of 14£ 13s. The deed may be seen at the present time. The remains of a rude fortification near the western limits of the town is all that is left to remind the present generation of the MABBLEAEAD. powerful tribe, that here gathered about Naimpashemet to defend their lands and rights against their Indian foes. This town in point of wealth and commerce was at one time the second in Massachusetts. Its harbor is one of the deepest on the Atlantic coast. Longfellow wrote of the towik in 1849 as follows: *' We sat within the favm-house old, Whose windows, looking o'er the bay, Gave to the sea-breeze, damp and cold, An easy entrance night and day. Not far away we saw the port, Tlie strange, old-fashioned, silent town, The light-house, the dismantled fort, The wooden houses, quaint and brown. The windows, rattling in their frames. The ocean roaring up the beach, The gusty blast, the bickering flames. All mingled with our speech." A writer in ''Old Naurakeag" gives the following com- prehensive description of the poi,nts of interest in the town: "One of the curiosities of the village is its crooked meandering streets. The town was evidently settled without regard to streets or boundary lines, each settler locating on some ledge or rise of ground wherever he pleased. Marblehead is rich in landmarks of the past, which would require a volume to describe and give theiu history. There is the Mugford monument on Pleasant street near the Eastern depot; the Soldiers' and Sailors' monument on Mugford street; the old North Church, rich in historic associations; St. Michael's Church, built in 1714, still in a good state of preservation, and serving the Episcopalians of Marblehead as a place of worship, and whose second pastor the Rev. David Mosson, subsequently SALEM NECK. moviDg to Virginia, had the distinguished honor of mar- rying George Washington and Mrs. Martha Custis Also the town house, built in 1728, on the spot ivhere the -gaol and cage" once stood; the old powder house; parson Barnard's old residence, bnilt in 1720; the house in which Elbridge Gerry was born ; the birth place and early home of Judge Story; the early home of good old parson Hoi- yoke who left Marblehead to take charge of Harvard College and win fresh laurels; the old burial ground witb Its Quamt tomb stones bearing the oddest of inscriptions. Then there is the famous old Lee house, built bv Hon Jeremiah Lee at a cost of £10,000. It was magnificently finished and some remains of its former grandeur may be seen to-day in its spacious hall, carved wainscotings and beautiful historic paper hangings. Towering above all these monuments of the past is the new Abbot Hall a bequest from a generous native of the town, Benjamin Abbot. Mr. Abbot's bequest amounted to over ^100 000 and the hall cost ^75,000. The sum of $20,000 was set apart for a public library and reading room, of which strangers may enjoy all privileges by depositing $3. as security. " *^ SALEM NECK. The WiLLOws.-JuNiPER Point.-Winter Island. Felt says that Salem Neck was occupied by fishermen as^ early as 1637 at the -point of rocks » on the present Rowell farm near the Rowell homestead. The Hawthornes owned land here at one time and the family house is still standing. This is the first point of interest on the ri-ht as we enter upon the Neck. On the left is the Salem City farm extending along the shore to the Willows The SALEM NECK, to Alms house, a large brick building erected in 1815, stands at the extremity of a lane leading ofi" the main street to the left. A little further along on the main avenue, and near the top of the hill, is a building used as a public pest- house in case of epidemic. Just beyond, on the brow of the hill, stands Fort Lee, now dismantled and crumbling away. A fort was built here" as early as 1699 and has ex- isted in one condition and another dow^n to the present time. In 1775 Gen. Henry Lee rebuilt it and mounted guns on it. Hence the name. After the war of the rev- olution and the war of 1812-14 it was abandoned by the general government. It was again rebuilt during the frat- ricidal strife of 1861-5, but little used. Taking the left- hand road of the three just beyond the fort, we soon reach *'The Willows" so called, (formerly known as Watch- house Point), a few acres of city property set apart for public use. It received its present name a few years since from the venerable grove of willow trees that were here planted by order of the Board of Health in 1801, when forty trees were set out, "in such direction as they (the Board of Health), may think will be most conducive to the comfort and convenience of the sick that may in future be there." The hospital and quarantine station was here located. On the shore of the Willows in front of the Eimtree pavilion, was a fine breastwork erected in 1812, which was defended»by troops from Salem, This breastwork was partially demolished a few years since. Faint traces of it still remain. This is the terminus of the street railway and brings us to the water's edge. Time was when this locality was a mere waste without a building on it. Under the spreading willow trees, in summer, the children of the poorer classes have often gathered to breathe for an hour the pure air of heaven and enjoy undisturbed the beauties of nature, or bathe SALEM NECK. their feet in the cooling water which washed the shore. The only path leading here was a rough and crooked lane. Now all is changed. A broad highway — thanks to the energy of ex-mayor Williams — and a line of street cars — thanks to the enterprise of the Naumkeag Street Railway — make the journey short and pleasant, either on foot, or in private carriage, or puWic conveyance. All this has been done in the face of unexplainable opposition on the part of some citizens and members of the city government. As an event of a remarkable and at the same time amus- ing nature in this connection, it should be recorded that in the spring of 1879 a member of the Common Council refused to favor an appropriation for shade trees at the Neck unless the order was accompanied by a provision for the closing of all the restaurants at 8 p. m., and re- straining the band from playing there in the evening. Thus depriving the laboring people who work all day of any opportunity to enjoy the ordinary pleasures of the place. It is gratifying to record further that the measure failed by an overwhelming- vote. A number of eating places have been established at *'The Willows" and the city has erected pavilions and seats. Numberless pleasure boats and dories for sailing or rowing may be found on the beaches. A large pavilion is open to the public for dances, picnics or general meetings. At timee steamers are run from the Neck to Lowell island or down the harbor. The effect of these public improvements on the Neck, together with the improvements on Juniper point by Mr. D. B. Gardner (described further on) has been to add very largely to the city valuation. The private property here was assessed, in 1873, for $9,800. To-day the assessed valuation is above one hundred thousand dollars; showing that the city's investment and fostering care was judicious. 15 8ALE3I NECK. Returning now to the junction of the three roads near Fort Lee and the Juniper House, formerly the Allen farm homestead, we take the middle one of these roads which leads to the settlement known as "The Juniper" or Juniper point. This is the extreme easterly point of Salem Neck. It is mainly elevated land with a rocky shore, rendering it peculiarly situated for drainage and free from miasmatic lowlands. No breeze sweeps over it which does not come tempered by the sea. For many years this section was mainly a pasture known as the Allen farm. A pretty tradition tells us that some Boston clerks first discovered the merits of the place as a summer resort by camping out here about 1855-6. But this tale lacks the essential of truth. About six or seven years ago some Lowell people, dissatisfied with the then exist- ing arrangements at Marblehead, were led to seek it, and in 1873 a few small cottages were erected. Each succeed- ing year brought them back and others with them from Lowell, Salem, Peabody and other places. In 1875 Mr. Daniel B. Gardner of Salem purchased the Allen farm of the Dustin heirs, containing about forty-two acres, and laid it out in building lots and streets. Since then he has expended much time and money improving the place. Good roads have been built; some shade trees planted; Wenham water introduced and fountains erected. At present writing (May, 1879), a sea-wall is being built be- tween the Point and Winter island, with a view to form- ing a retaining dam. The enclosure will make a salt- water basin for bathing and boating. It will contain sufficient water for these purposes even at low tide, and yet will be changed with every change of tide. The Juniper settlement numbers seventy cottages, some of them large and handsome, and in mid-summer has an agreeable population of about 500. SALEM NECK. The situation is picturesque and pleasant. Standing here we can see the City of Salem, and its harbor, the Marblehead shore, and, across the extreme point of the town, Lowell island and the hotel on it. Directly in front are the islands of the bay and Salem harbor. On the left is the beautiful shore of Cape Ann from Eastern Point ; past Magnolia, Manchester and West Beach, with here and there a glimpse of some charming villa, to Beverly village and harbor. Just across the little cove is Winter island, now con- nected with the main land by a permanent causeway. With the exception of a small section controlled by the United States government whereon stand a light-house and the ruins of Fort Pickering, the entire island is the property of and connected with the Plummer Farm School, a reform school for small boys. The institution was founded on a bequest of $25,000 by Miss Caroline Plummer. The farm is a fine one and furnishes abund- ance of vegetables for the early market. On this island the old U. S. Frigate Essex, one of the most historic ships of the American Navy was built, in 1799. The Essex was the first ship to carry the stars and stripes around the Cape of Good Hope and Cape Horn ; was the first to capture an armed prize in the war of 1812-14. Among her commanders were numbered Preble, Bainbridge, Decatur, Stewart and the father of Admiral Porter. On her deck Admiral Farragut was first wounded. Previous to the late war the island was the muster field of the Essex County militia. During that war it was a rendez- vous for troops. All of these points may be reached by street cars and barges which are running constantly day and evenins: duriner the summer season. }5 BEVEBLY. EEYERLY. History and Description.— The Sea Shore. — Pride's Crossing. — Beverly Farms. Across Beverly harbor from Salem lies the town of Beverly at the head of Cape Ann. To reach it, either by carriage or rail, we must cross a long bridge which spans an arm of the sea known as Bass river at the head of Beverly harbor. The highway bridge extends from the terminus of Bridge street, Salem, to Cabot street, Beverly, and is 1,484 feet in length and 34 feet in width. It was incorporated as a toll-bridge in 1787, and the first timber was driven in May, 1788. The Act of Incorporation pro- vided that tolls might be collected during seventy years. It did not become a free bridge until some time after the expiration of that period, and since it has been free, the expense of maintainance has been borne by Salem and Beverly. The railroad bridge crosses the river just west of the carriage bridge. The main pipe of the Wenham water supply rests on an independent pier close beside the carriage way. It is related that when George Wash- ington made his tour through New England he so admired this bridge that he got out of his carriage and walked its entire length. ~ Beverly was once a fishing and agricultural community, but of late years the fishing business has considerably di- minished, and a new industry — the shoe business — has grown up. Some thirty factories have been erected, mostly in the vicinity of the railway station on the west- erly side of the town, and during the last few years they have done a thriving business. BEVERLY. Historically, Beverly is one of the oldest towns of the Massachusetts Bay colony. Roger Conant himself was one of the first settlers here, John Woodbury and Wil- liam Woodbury preceding him by a few years. The set- tlement was detached from Salem, of which it formed a part, and incorporated as the town of Beverly in' 1668. The first town meeting was held on Nov. 23 of the same year. Capt. Thomas Lothrop, William Dixey, William Dodge, sen., John West and Paul Thorndike were the first selectmen. The people worshipped with the Salem Church until 1649, when they received permission to have separate worship among themselves, and in 1656 they built a meeting house. It stood near the site of the pres- ent Old South Church, which is on the corner of Cabot and Hale streets, but not on the same spot. Rev. John Hale was the first pastor. Among his direct descendants have been Hon. John P. Hale, Hon. Nathan Hale and Rev. Edward Everett Hale. A second church was established at North Beverly about 1713, with Rev. John Chipman as pastor. During subsequent years the following churches have been organized: First Baptist on Cabot street; Third Congregational on Dane street ; Second Baptist at Beverly Farms, Fourth Congregational at North Beverly (now merged in the Second Congregational at North Beverly) ; Washington Street Congregational on Wash- ington street; Uuiversalist on Thorndike street; Metho- dist on Railroad avenue; Catholic on Cabot street; St. Peter's (Episcopal) on Bow street; Independent Metho- dist in Odd Fellows building. Beverly has made wonderful strides in the march of im- provements during the past ten or fifteen years. True, some of these improvements have been costly, and the town is burdened with a heavy debt, but there is certainly something substantial, something permanent, to show for 17 BEVEBLT. it. The roads are the best in Essex County; Wenham water pipes penetrate to the remotest corner; the school houses and fire department houses are unsurpassed in outward appearance or internal arrangements by any in the county. The town house was more than doubled in size a few years ago. This building was originally the private residence of Mr. Andrew Cabot. Subsequently it was owned and occupied by Hon, Israel Thorndike, whose heirs sold it to the town. On the first floor are the offices of the various town officials and a free public library of 5,000 volumes; on the second floor is a large^ and well appointed hall ; in the upper story is Thorndike ' Hall, a large banqueting room. Nearly opposite the town house is Odd Fellow's building, a handsome brick struct- ure. Just beyond is the fine Briscoe school-house occu- pied by the High and Briscoe schools, beside which the town has nine other school-houses, all newly built. Pri- vate enterprise has also made extensive improvements. While many of the present generation will complain of those who were instrumental in. incurring the debt neces- sary to secure these public and private improvements, the next generation will no doubt praise its predecessor for having left these public works. The post office and bank are located in Masonic block on the comer of Cabot and Washington streets. This block was erected by the mem- bers of Liberty Lodge of Freemasons in 1867 at a cost of $20,000. Those who delight in tracing out early settlements will doubtless be interested to know that the first settlers of Beverly, Roger Conant, John and William Woodbury and John Balch, of the '' old planters," who came hither from Cape Ann, located on grants very near Balch street. Among those sons of Beverly who have obtained more than local prominence may be mentioned Robert Rantoul, BEVEBLY. Jr., statesman and scholar. Graduating at Harvard in 182G, he practised law in Essex County, was representa- tive to the General Court, collector of the port of Boston, United States District Attorney, succeeded Daniel Web- ster in the United States Senate, and finally died while a m ember of the National House of Representatives. Con- temporary with Eantoul was Isaac 'Ray, a distinguished writer on medical jurisprudence and mental diseases : also, Wilson Flagg, the great naturalist. Rev. A. P. Peabody, one of the ablest clergymen of the county, now pastor of the North Avenue Congregational Church, Cambridge, and Rev. E. P. Tenney, author of the beautiful hymn, "There is an hour of peaceful rest," were both natives of Beverly. Statistically speaking, Beverly has a population of about 7,500 (7,271 in 1875). According to the census of 1875 it contained 1,399 dwellings (in 1860 the number was 900). The amount of capital invested in manufactures was (1875) $314,700. The values of some of the manu- factures were as follows : earthern ware, $10,000; bricks, §6,G00; machinery, $5,000; wagons, $8,000; boxes, $9,000; boots and shoes, $1,539,800. The capital invested in this latter branch was $290,150. These occupations gave em- ployment to 1,314 persons. The fishing business, as has been stated, has diminished largely. The value of the cod brought to its ports in 1875 was $131,000. The valuation of the town in 1878 was $5,386,600 real estate; and $2,372,300 personal; polls, 1,910; rate of taxation, $14.80, per $1,000. The art connoisseurs who visit Cape Ann will find in Beverly one of the most attractive "galleries" tliat the country afibrds, in the works of the " Beverly pottery." Here they will see accurate reproductions of all the best specimens of ancient pottery, literal copies of some of the finest pieces now in the old world art museums. This /^ BEVEBLY. pottery was established at the very beginning of the eighteenth century and has been in operation during the greater portion of the time since. The manufacture of copies of ancient vases was begun by Mr. C. A. Lawrence in 1872, and was the first efibrt of the land in this coun- try. Mr. Lawrence, at the solicitation of some art-loving ladies of Boston, undertook to copy certain ancient pot- tery vases. This he did for three years for private sales only, the wares fetching fabulous prices. Eventually the goods were offered for sale in Boston and New York, and since then the demand has been very great. It is impos- sible to describe here what Mr. Lawrence's store rooms contain, and the writer can only urge every visitor to this section to make a personal visit. The imformation in the art of ancient vases, and in pottery in general, to be ob- tained, to say nothing of the pleasure, will ten times re- pay the slight trouble. This pottery is located on Federal street, near the Eastern depot. The clay used is obtained from the dry beds of the ancient pottery established in Beverly in 1701. Mr. Thomas Pitman, a thorough artist, and a connoisseur in ancient ware, is employed in decor- ating the various articles. All visitors will receive a wel- come from the proprietor and be shown through the works. The " sea-shore" section of Beverly, which may prop- erly be said to begin at the corner of Washington and Lathrop streets, extends to Manchester, a distance of seven miles. Every rod of the shore with the exception of a few small farms just out of the village, has been given over to the wealthy Boston and Salem people for summer residences, and they have built on nearly every available lot of the water front, and to a great extent on all the territory for a quarter or half mile back from the shore. Most of these residences are quite extensive, — large houses, with stables and green-houses, etc., all sur- BEVEBLY. rounded by broad law^is and groves, and in some instances several acres of field and wood-land. The shore is an alternation of bold, rocky points and inlets, coves and beaches, affording all necessary facilities for the three in- dispensibles to a sea-shore summer residence, — boating, bathing and fishing. A broad highway, known as Hale street, skirts the shore from the village to Manchester line, sometimes almost at the water's edge and anon a half mile from the extreme end of some point. These distant projections are reached by branch streets. There are many residences in the settled portion of the town equally extensive and pleasantly surrounded as some of those on the shore. Such for instance as the residence of Dr. Haddock, a skilful physician of the town, on Bartlett street; the residence of Hon. John I. Baker on Abbott street; A. N. Clark and William Endicott on Broadway, and Hon. F. W. Choate on Rantoul street. If the tour is made in a carriage, we shall, after inspect- ing the village, proceed down Washington street to Lathrop. The large old-fashioned house on the corner is the Rantoul mansion. It has of late, and until his re- moval to Lexington, been the summer home of Rev. A. P. Putnam of New York. Turning to the left into Lathrop street we pass the charming English villa of Wm*. M. Whitney. The house is on the land side of the street and the estate extends to the water on the opposite side. Just beyond here is the Robert Rantoul, Jr. estate, sometimes occupied in summer by the family of Chief Justice Gray. The unoccupied estate adjoining is the Bancroft estate, now as always heretofore the property of the heirs of Rev. John P. Hale. Following this street through the valley of willows and up a hill to the Louer hose-house, we turn to the right into Hale street (named for Rev. John Hale), past the cosy residence of Israel Whitney in the little ^/ BEVERLY. grove on the knoll at the right, and then from that into Ober street jast as we enter the " Cove " village, so-called, once known as " mackerel cove." The first sea-shore residence which will attract attention is that of Charles Elliott on Galloupe's hill on the right. A short distance beyond here is the large and elegant estate of B. F. Bur- gess, extending about a fourth of a mile from the street to the sea, the house standing on Burgess point. Adjoin- ing this estate on the same street is William Sohier's large residence, and also the Bard well estate. Across the cove on the next point of land is Hospital Point light- house, reached by a new street leading off Neptune street. From the point a fine view is obtained of the Beverly shore, Salem, Marblehead, the bay and islands. Return- ing to Hale street by way of Neptune street we pass the residence of M. W. Shepard. Hale street now leads us between two noticeable granite walls extending some dis- tance on either side. On the water side, but hidden from view, are the resi- dences of Wm. D. Pickman and Mrs. Willard Peele. These joint estates extend from the sea to the street, and from the street back through the woods some distance, the whole being modeled after one of those grand old English manor-house parks, with drives and foot-paths open to the public. The next street is Brackenberry lane, which leads to Patehe's beach and the residence of Mrs. David Sears, Jr. Returning to Hale street once more we next turn off at Prince street. This leads ns to the ele- gant residences of John G. Cushing, Richard D. Parker, Mrs. John D. Silsbee and S. Endicott Peabody, the first named being on the extreme end of Ober's point. Across a little cove and beach from here we see the massive stone mansion of Mrs. Franklin Dexter, which, from its elevated location, presents on the water front something BEVERLY. of the appearance of a Rhinish castle. The occupant, by a slight stretch of the imaj^^iuation, can sing with Byron, as he drifts dreamily down the Rhine : '• The Castle crag of Drachenfels Frowns o'er the wide and winding Rhine, Whose breast of waters broadly swell?;, Between the banks which bear the vine; And hills all rich with blossomed trees, And fields which promise corn and wine; And scattered cities crowning these, Whose far white walls along them shine. Have strewed a scene, which I shonld see With donble joy wert thou with me." Once more back on Hale street we drive through a lovely wooded park with the estates of Mrs. Dexter and of John G. King on the right, extending to the water, and a number of villas in the woods on the opposite side. Among them those of George Z. Silsbee, W. G. Salton- stall, Mrs. G. H. Shaw, Waldo Higginson, and J. P. Gard- ner's heirs. This wood is crossed in all directions by driveways and bridle and foot-paths. To the right as we emerge from the park is Mingos beach. Adjoining it, and extending beyond, is the elegant estate of Mrs. J. S. Cabot, and opposite her residence, approached by delight- ful driveways from several directions, is the Swiss villa of Hon. Martin Brimmer. There are a number of hand- some cottages on either side of the road here while on the hill a short distance back are the residences of Wil- liam Endicott, Jr. and Sidney Bartlett. The next beyond, and situated far up the hill on an overhanging rock, is another Swiss cottage which belongs to Francis W. Palfry and is known as " the crows-nest." The beach on the right is Plum Cove beach, and the pretty cottage overlooking it is that of C. W. Loriug, which adjoins the fine farm of the heirs of C. G. Loring. The estate adjoin- Q3 BEVERLY. ing Mr. Palfry's, on the same side of the road at the corner of Thissle street, and like Mr. Palfry's located on a high ledge, is that 'of Francis Bartlett, approached by a circuitous driveway. This brings us to the Pride's Crossing railway station. The veteran agent here will readily furnish the tourist with any desired information. He is the Directory of the town. He will tell you that that cottage just across the track, up there in the woods, is Mr. James F. Curtis's, and the avenue to the left of it, next to Mr. Palfry's, is the summer residence of Gen. C. L. Pearson. He will tell you that the embowered carriage way which you passed on your right just before reaching the station leads to the elegant C. W. Loring estate ; that the driveway which extends towards the sea from the depot will lead you, by numerous diverging paths, to some of the most extensive estates on the coast, through parks, groves, gardens, and lawns. Taking them in order we shall find the following : George Gardner, Miss Paine, Wm. C. Paine, John T. Morse, Mr. S. B. Schlessinger, John T. Morse, Jr., E. Rollin Morse, Mrs. B. F. Thomas, F. Gordon Dexter, Frauklin Haven, T. A. Neal, R. S. Rantoul, and Mrs. S. Cabot. These form a group of fine cottages scattered through the section lying between the railway and the water on the one hand, and between the Pride's Crossing and Beverly Farms stations on the other. Scarcely one of these houses can be seen distinctly from the railway or from Hale street. The traveler by rail should leave the cars at one of these stations, walk through this series of parks to the other station and take the train again. These ** mansions by the sea " are surrounded by extensive nat- ural forests, meadows, fields, lawns, and flower gardens interspersed with ponds, streams, carriage roads, bridle BEVEBLY. paths, and foot-paths. Those who are driving along Hale street should take the principal of these carriage roads to West beach and follow along that a mile or more to Bev- erly Farms, making an exit on "West street. The white brick house here is that of Jonathan Preston, the yellow one on the westerly side Mrs. E. A. Boardman's, and the large establishment on the elevated point beyond is Mr. Henry Lee's. These private grounds of which we have just spoken and the roads through them are mostly open to the public in summer, and a drive or walk through them should not be omitted. But in so doing the visitor should bear in mind that the least recompense ho can make for so much pleasure is to conduct himself decorously and not stray from the beaten paths picking flowers, trampling the lawns, or breaking the limbs of trees and shrubl)ery. He ought at least to be as considerate as his English cousins who, year after year, travel through the broad acres of the "Lord" without ever stepping to the one side or the other, thankful that his more favored fellow being shares with him thus much. The unique Swiss villa seen from Beverly Farms in the distance on a "back" street belongs to Mrs. Ozias Goodwin, and near to it is W. B. Sewall's cottage. The cottage on a high hill some distance from the water in the rear of the depot is Mr. C. H. Daltou's. Others in this vicinity are owned by J. Elliot Cabot, Dr. II. W. Hooper, Henry Adams, Henry Dexter, Mr. Luke, Charles Storrow, and Mrs. Parkman. In the wooded park towards Manchester on the right of the road, is Mr. S. T. Morse's elegant villa, and nearly opposite, on the hill, completely hidden among the trees, is the exten- sive estate of Thornton K. Lothrop. This completes our visit to Beverly, for just beyond here we enter Manchester-by-the-sea. These non-resi- 9^ MANCIIE8 TEB-B Y- THESE A. dents have clone much to help build up the town and are a great aid to its prosperity. Men now living remember when the entire sea-shore section of Beverly was assessed for .$25,000; to-day the non-residents alone are assessed for several hu-ndred thousands. lANCHESTER-BY-THE-SEA. History and Description.— The Masconomo House.— A Drive Through the Town.— Eagle Head. From Beverly we pass to Manchester along the same road that we have traveled most of the time since leaving Lathrop street. Mancliester-by-the-sea is one of the most attractive sea-shore resorts on the Atlantic coast. It ex- tends along the shore some four miles, presenting from the sea a picturesque front, a charming alternation of cragged rocks, forming bold headlands and sandy beaches and inlets. The sea dashes against these rocky shores with great force in the pleasantest weather, and rolls gently in upon the beaches; while in a storm all is changed, and the scene is one of wild grandeur, the sea lashing the rocks with terrific force and rolling up the beach as if it would submerge the dry laud. The air in this vicinity is remarkably pure and bracing, and there is a freshness in everything around us. There are peculiar properties about the climate here which banish asthma and hay-fever. A certain ex-mayor of a New England city may be found at his cottage on the "Neck" in April of each year, and he will tell you, if you ask him why he comes so early, that it is because this is the only place in the country where he can live in the spring and summer MAXCHESTEB-B Y- THESE A. on account of asthma. The pretty cottages, some of them, with their lawns, forests, flower-gardens and drives, remind one forcibly of some bright Swiss or French villa, save that they are even more bright and cheery. Historically, Manchester is one of the oldest settle- ments in this section of the country. It was originally a part of Salem and was the second municipality taken from her territory, having been set off as a separate town on May 14, 1645. It was early known as Jeffry's creek, so-called from William Jeffry, the first settler. The prin- cipal stream of water still bears his name. "When the settlement was incorporated as an independent town it was called Manchester, presumably in honor of the Duke of Manchester. It was once an important fishing port, but that business graduall}- died out, owing largely to the superior facilities offered by Gloucester. Some years ago furniture manufacturing was extensively carried on in the village, but that, too, has very much declined. The terri- tory of the town comprises only 4,310 acres, and the total valuation in 1878 was $2,001,984. The rate of taxation was 66.43 on each $1,000. The population is about 1,600, and the number of polls 434. lu the village are three churches — Congregational, Baptist and Catholic — eight schools, drug store, and the usual complement of shops and business places. As a summer resort Manches- ter-by-the-sea has attractions for the permanent resident as well as the transient visitor. "With a view to keeping the society somewhat select no hotel for summer visitors was erected until the spring of 1878, when Mr. Junius B. Booth built and opened to the public the Masconomo House, one of the best watering place hotels in the country. It is a good/ac simile of some of those charm- ing hostel ries to be seen around the shores of the Swiss 57 3IA NCHE8 TEB- B Y- THE- SEA. lakes among the Alps, the best hotels in Europe. Located at the top of a gentle elevation, well-kept lawns slope away on either side, while immediately in front is a large flower garden. At the rear of the house beyond the green "platz" is the celebrated Singing beach, which, besides being a first class beach for bathin^g, has peculiar musical qualities. At the base of the hill in front of the house, is JefiVy's creek and Manchester harbor which extends out to the sea and aflfords excellent facilities for safe bathing. A writer in the New York "Graphic" has written of Manchester-by-the-sea and the Masconorao : "The Masconomo House, named after the Chief of a local tribe of Indians, is builded adjoining and continuous with what has been Mr. Booth's beautiful seaside resi- dence for some seasons past. And it deserves to be stated that in selecting his seaside home Mr. Booth studied the coast very thorouglily from Long Branch to Old Orchard. Those who follow him in the study and make up their conclusions at his hotel will speedily assent to the claim that he holds the gem of the North Atlantic sea coast. Mr. Booth's estate is a supeib lawn of twelve acres look- ing out on a smooth, broad crescent of shore, whose sand, by some peculiarity of its particles, actually whistles as you tread upon it. Beaten hard by the surf, it is compact and almost unyielding to tread or wheel, and, sloping gently, has a splendid floor for the bather, with no perils from under- tow, the reefs, far outside, receiving the first force of the sea. "The Singing Beach " is famous in the guide-books. Appleton makes mention of it; so have the tourist's let- ters for years. The beach has this other feature of espe- cial value to our Northern sea-coast resorts. By the trend of the shore line it fronts almost due south, and the dreaded northeast winds come to the Masconomo House across eight miles of pine woods, tempering the blast that MANCHESTER-B Y- THE- SEA. rr Sa. ?1 <;^9 3IANCIIESTEE-B T- THE- SEA. is most troublesome to the seashore visitor or resident. The hotel has 240 feet frontage, with a depth of flfty-two feet; three and a half stories in height, with twenty-two rooms ; a dining-room 77 feet by 32 feet wide, and an office, etc., on first floor; twenty- four rooms on the second and thirty rooms on the third floor, making 106 rooms in all. The building is 89 feet high from first floor, with a large octagon observatory over the centre, which is 70 feet above water mark, 12 feet wide and 16 feet long. The broad hall-way, from front to rear entrance, has a large octagon hall in the centre, 18 by 22 feet, having in it four fireplaces, each 3^ feet wide, in which to, have the pleasant old open log fires during any cold or stormy evening; and from this centre hall is a hallway, 12 feet wide from end to end of the house; at one end is the entrance to the dining-room, an air}' and beautiful room with fine sea views from all its windows. The hotel is lighted with gas. Connected with it is a large stable with a stud of horses and plenty of carriages." The majority of the summer residents here are people of means and culture from Boston, New York, Philadel- phia and elsewhere, who have built fine residences and ornamented their grounds with great skill and taste. The place has always been noted as the summer rendezvous of people of literary and artistic tastes. Such are James T. Fields, the author, lecturer and former publisher, Rev. Cyrus A. Bartol, D.D., one of the most emminent divines in the country, Mr. and Mrs. Junius B. Booth and John G. Gilbert, worthy representatives of the stage, Richard H. Dana, Jr., lawyer and statesman. Rev. E. P. Tenny, the novelist, and many others one might add. The drives in town and through neighboring towns and cities are un- usually attractive;. The drives of Essex County are famous. Those of other Cape towns have been elsewhere MANCHESTEB-B Y- THE- SEA. described ; j'ou may ride for miles through pathways of cultivated and costly estates, or, turning inland, you may drive for hours in deep woods, through pleasant valleys and farms or in silent forests. The roads of Manchester- by-the-sea are among the best in Essex County. Arrange- ments have been made by which a line of woods will be maintained forever on either side of the "road to Essex," and the town has recently appropriated money to com- plete a circular drive around by the beautiful Chebacco lakes, and return over a new road direct to Manchester- by-the-sea. The traveler driving through the town will note first as he enters it the cottage away to the right in the woods near the w^ater. This is the residence of Mr. Benj. G. Boardman, and very near it is that of his son T. Dennie Boardman. Mr. Boardman also owns the cottage at West Manches- ter on the point of rocks near the railway. The large peculiarly shaped house near the top of the high hill as we 'enter the town is Mr. Henry L. Hig- ginson's, built in 1879. It is a sort of Schonberg castle, and would be much more like that famous structure, in miniature, were it of granite. On the further side of the hill is a road leading to West Manchester depot and a cluster of summer cottages. Among them are those of N. B. Mansfield, Dr. Bartol and W. C. Cabot. Dr. Bar- tol's is the cottage with the tower on top, and near it is his observatorv. 3/ MANCHESTEB-B Y- THE- 8 E A. The road over which we are driving takes us through Manchester village, situated at the mouth of JeflYy's creek and at the head of the harbor, an arm of the sea which makes up about a half mile. Passing the town house and Congregational Church, we turn to the left and follow Railroad avenue across the railway and up the hill to the Masconomo. The red- roofed Swiss villa on the ledge — "Thunderbolt-rock" — to the left, is the residence of James' T. Fields. At the top of this hill we turn to the right on to the " Old Neck Road " (why not call it Masco- nomo avenue). The large mansion on the right, backed by a fine grove, is the residence of Mrs. Mary C. Martin. Opposite to it are the estates of Mrs. Jedediah Cobb, Rus- sell Sturgis, Jr., Esq., a retired Boston merchant, and Lewis Cabot, the latter including a large orchard. These estates once formed a part of the Hemenway estate. This road will lead us to Gale's point, a territory of seventy- four acres, owned by Dr. Bartol, which he has recently put into the market. He has built a winding carriage road around the Neck, making a drive equally as grand as that around Marblehead Neck, and very romantic from its tortuous course. Keeping to the right, the road passes between the fine residences of Hon. J. Warren Merrill of Cambridge and Hon. E. E. Rice of Boston, the former on the knoll above and the latter directly opposite. Below Mr. Rice's is the red-roofed cottage of Prof. O. S. Eowler, and beyond that, on the shore of the harbor, the white cottage of Augustus W. Smith, being a portion of the old Smith farm. Continuing along this road to the extreme point we reach the new estate of George B. Howes of Boston, which, when completed (it is now, May, 1879, building), will be unsurpassed by any resi- dence on the North shore. The elevation is nearly a 3IANCHESTEB-B Y- THESE A, hundred feet above water level and the point lies out in the open sea, " Where the waves are wild And the winds are free," and where, during a southeaster, the seas break on the granite cliffs with the roar of a thunder-storm, throwing high their foam and spray. We return to the old road by a driveway along the the southeasterly side of the Neck. At the Masconomo we visit "Singing beach." The musical sound here will be noticed only when the sand is dry. When struck with the heel of the shoe or by an incoming wave it sends forth a peculiar musical sound. The pretty summer cot- tage standing off the beach road near the hotel is L. N. Tappan's. Just beyond the Masconomo a street branches off the Old Neck road to a number of cottages, including John G. Gilbert's, the last on the left before entering the grove, and Mrs. Stephen H. Bullard's, the last on the right, and terminating at the charming English villa of Mrs. John H. Towne of Philadelphia. The visit to Mrs. Towne's should by all means include Eagle-head, that grandest old headland of Massachusetts Bay. Leaving the carriage we walk down any of the embowered paths leading to the base of the ledge and then clamber up its steep side until we are on a level with the tops of the trees and one hundred and thirty feet above the sea, which breaks along the cragged rocks at our feet. Now it rolls softly, almost noiselessly up the side of some sloping ledge, and anon dashes against a perpendicular front as if, in its anger, it would tear the huge headland from its foun- dation. The white-winged craft which sail to and fro be- low us, as we sit here, look like toy ships. This on a lovely May afternoon. How changed the scene on a dark 33 MANCHE8TEB-B Y- THE- SEA. ■winter's night wlien a southeasterly storm rages. The damp snow which half blinds us makes the distance to the water seem double what it really is. The wild waves bear down on our post like an army attacking a fort, as if, in their wild rush, they fain would carry all before them. As they approach nearer, rolling now like mountains, they seem to pause for a moment as if for renewed breath, and then to throw themselves against the giant rock in a perfect rage. And yet we feel not their blow. But for the roar of their bursting and falling back we should never know of their presence, for their spray is mingled with the driving storm. They crumble like dead forest leaves beneath the feet; they are "dashed into countless fragments " and thrown into the air like so much chaff. All along the shore, though in a somewhat milder degree, perhaps, the same process is going on. Above the beat- ing of the storm, above the howling of the forest trees as they bend before the wind, rises the roar of this furious war of the waters and the rocks, like ten thousand infu- riated demons, each bent on destroying the other and rul- ing both land and sea. It is difficult at such a time to believe the sea inanimate. And though it seems as a toy compared with the granite ledges upon which it appar- ently has no effect, still, •'These restless surges eat away the shores Of earth's old continent; tlie fertile plain Welters in shallows, headlands crumble down, And the tide drifts the sea-sands in tlie streets Of the drowned city." Returning again to the main road near the village cem- etery we proceed towards Gloucester, There are but few more sea-shore estates until we reach Magnolia, and those are situated some distance from the highway and practi- MAGNOLIA. cally out of sight. The large old-fashioned house some distance to the right which we see, about the time we cross the railway after leaving the village, is the Dana house, the first summer residence built in Manchester. During many years, and until his death in 1878, it was the summer home of Hon. Richard H. Dana, the scholar and poet, the friend, companion and contemporary of the poet Bryant, and the contemporary of Caleb Gushing. It is now occupied by Mr. Dana's son, Richard H. Dana. On the shore in the vicinity of the Dana estate, but hidden from the highway by intervening forests, are the pleasant estates of Greely S. Curtis and Mrs. Emily T. Curtis. These and the Dana residence may be seen by driving through the w^oods along either of two carriage paths. The settlement just beyond the woods is known as Kettle Cove. There are a few farms here and some fishermen's houses ; also two or three summer cottages. The estate of T. Jefi'erson Coolidge lies ofl" to the right across the cove on a point of laud. His residence is one of the most costly on the shore. Near Crescent beach is the Crescent Beach House, a pleasantly located summer hotel kept by Mr. Allen Kno.wlton. The inhabitants of this section of territory are desirous of being set off as a town by themselves. Mr. Knowlton has been a prime mover in the matter. The line desired, starts from the shore a short distance from Crescent beach, and runs straight inland to the junction of Man- chester and Essex, about four miles, thence back to the seashore just below Norman's Woe, making a triangular section of about four square miles, with some seventy houses, and, allowing four persons to a family, 280 in- habitants. The shore line would be about four and a half miles. The distance to the voting place in Ward 8, Gloucester, is about four miles, and to Manchester town MAGNOLIA. house over three miles. The residents here have a chapel and schoolhouse. It is proposed to bring the subject before the Legislature next winter. The Crescent Beach House was built in 1873, and has been enlarged annually since, until now it will accommodate 150 guests. The neat and prelty farm cottage opposite is occupied by Rev. Henry W. Foote, of Kings Chapel. Mr. Knowlton is numbered among those few who know how to keep a hotel, as his increasing patronage shows. He has a superior location, a fine house, and provides a first-class table, leaving nothing to be desired by the guests. His house is sheltered from the north and east winds by the dense woods, a short distance inland. In the cove the opportunities for boating are excellent. At the head of the beach, not far from the hotel, Rev. James Freeman Clarke is to build a fine residence, which he will occupy every summer. Other parties will build here ere long, and, with good roads and proper municipal arrangements, there seems to be no reason why a good sized town by the name of Magnolia may not be formed from the two present settlements of Kettle Cove and Magnolia. MAGNOLIA. The Newest Summer Resort. — Hesperus House. — Rafe's Chasm. — Norman's Woe. — Magnolia to Gloucester. About three miles from Manchester and the same dis- tance from Gloucester, the traveler over the highway from Salem will see, on a guide-board at the corner of two roads, the word "Magnolia." The road which this sign MAGNOLIA. points out to liim leads to one of the newest as it is one of the best sea-shore resorts on Cape Ann. The growth of Magnolia as a summer resort has been rapid since attention was first attracted to it. The first strictly sum- mer residence here was built in 1872, by Charles E. Billings, "W. O. Trowbridge, J. S. Potter, and Lucien Chase, of Newton. Mr. Charles C. Goodwin built another in 1873. During the intervening years since, some twenty cottages and boarding houses and a hotel have been built. Originally Magnolia was a fishing and farming settlement. The little fishermen's huts are still standing on the shore of the cove. The section known as the "Point" was pur- chased in 1867 by Mr. Daniel W. Fuller, of Swampscott. Mr. Fuller has built several cottages on this land, some of which he has sold, others he rents annually', and has also sold lots to parties who have built residences for themselves. In 1877 he built a hotel on the rising ground, a few rods, back from the shore. This he more than doubled in size in the spring of 1879, so that now the Hesperus House will accommodate about one hundred guests. The two wings of the hotel stand some seventy feet apart and are connected by a covered walk, in the middle of which is a handsome Chinese pagoda. During both of the years since the Hesperus was opened, the patronage has exceeded the capacity of the house, and overflowed into the neighboring cottages. The house commands a magnificent view of the bay and ocean, with sea views from nearly every room. ISTo place on the Cape excels Magnolia in variety of attractions. On one side of the point is Crescent beach, an excellent beach for bathing, arid a cove for anchorage of yachts. In front, the opportunity for fishing from the MAGNOLIA. rocks is good, while those who wish can put out from the shore a mile or two and anchor on deep-water fishing grounds, where cod, haddock, and other kind of salt- water fish are plenty. To the left, lies a bold rock-bound coast. Back of the shore, the dense woods, threaded by- innumerable carriage and foot-paths, offer unusual attrac- tions to the strollers. Numerous varieties of berries and wild flowers grow in profusion along the half-hidden paths. In a swamp some two miles distant grows the fragrant Magnolia. There are two ways of reaching Magnolia besides the highway — by rail and by boat. The Magnolia station on the Eastern road is about two miles from tlie point, but barges connect with all trains to and from Boston in the summer season. The Gloucester boats frequently touch, here in summer, and sometimes boats run from Salem. With the growth of the place the frequency and regularity of the boat trips will increase. One of the attractions in August is the encampment of the second corps of Cadets, M. V. M., a fine company composed of members from Salem and vicinity. Their camping-ground is just back of the hotel, and the residents enjoy the band concerts and all the displays, including the inspection by the governor and staff and other dignitaries. "The Flume," about a half mile from the hotel, is a channel in the cliff, 150 feet in length, 50 feet in depth, and 6 in width, with perpendicular sides. Rafe's Chasm, a little way beyond, is another attractive ♦'natural curiosity." It is a channel cut into the solid rock, nearly 60 feet in depth, 200 in length, and 10 in width. During a storm the water rushes into this channel with tremendous force, striking against its sides with the sound of thunder, and spouting upwards in torrents. It MAGNOLIA. reveals most forcibly the power of the ocean, and inspires the beholder to sing with the poet : — O Father! — "who forgets not, at the sight Of these tremendous tokens of thy power, His pride, and lays his strifes and follies by? Oh, from these sterner aspects of thy face Spare me and mine, nor let us need the wrath Of the mad unchained elements to teach "Who rules them. Be it ours to meditate In these calm shades thy milder majesty, And to the beautiful order of thy works Learn to conform the order of our lives." The reef of Norman's Woe is an island rock a short distance from the high cliffs of the mainland. It was here, tradition sa3's, that the schooner Hesperus was wrecked in the latter part of the seventeenth century. The Probate records of Essex County show that a Rich- ard Norman, about 1680, sailed on a voyage from which he never returned, and if the tradition is founded upon fact, the tragic termination of his voyage was probably on this reef. But the event has a peculiar and added interest from the fact that the poet Longfellow immor- talized it in verse. The sad story of the shipwreck is thus told by him. We quote his poem in part : — "It was the schooner Hesperus, That sailed the wintry sea ; And the skipper had taken his little daughter, To bear him company. The skipper he stood beside the helm With his pipe in his mouth, And watched how the veering flaw did blow The smoke, now west, now south. Colder and louder blew the wind, A gale from the north-east; The snow fell hissing in the brine. And the billows frothed like yeast. 3? MAGNOLIA. Down came the storm, and smote amain The vessel in its strength; She shuddered and paused like a frighted steed, Then leaped her cable's length. 'Come hither I come hither I my little daughter, And do not tremble so; For I can weather the roughest gale That ever wind did blow.' He wrapped her warm in his seaman's coat, Against the stinging blast; He cut a rope from a broken spar, And bound her to the mast. ' O, father 1 I hear the church-bells ring : Oh, say, what may it be ? ' ' 'Tis a fog-bell on a rockbound coast I ' — And he steered for the open sea. * O, father I I see a gleaming light : Oh, say, what may it be ?' But the father answered never a word, A frozen corpse was he. Lashed to the helm, all stiff and stark, With his face turned to the skies, The lantern gleamed through the gleaming snow On his fixed and glassy eyes. And fast through the midnight dark and drear, Through the whistling sleet and snow, Like a sheeted ghost the vessel swept, Towards the reef of Norman's Woe. The breakers were right beneath the bows. She drifted a dreary wreck, And a whooping billow swept the crew Like icicles from her deck. She struck where the white and fleecy waves Looked soft as carded wool, But the cruel rocks, they gored her side, Like the horns of an angry bull. MAGNOLIA. Her rattling shrouds all sheathed in ice, With the masts went by the board; Like a vessel of glass, she stove and sunk: — Ho 1 ho I the brealiers roared I At daybreak, on the bleak sea-beach, A fisherman stood aghast, To see the form of a maiden fair, Lashed close to a drifting mast. The salt sea was frozen on her breast, The salt tears in her eyes ; And he saw her hair like the brown sea- weed, On the billows fall and rise. Such was the wreck of the Hesperus In the midnight and the snow ! Christ save us all from a death like this. On the I'eef of Norman's Woe 1 " " Hesperus Gulch" is still another ravine, or channel in the ledge, into which the seas run with great force. There is a rough carriage-road running from here to Western Avenue, joining the latter near "Brook Bank," about a mile and a half from town. Or, we can return to Magnolia point and go from there to the main highway as we came. By the latter plan we have a pleasant, wooded road of about two miles. We emerge from the woods at the head of Fresh-water cove, an inlet from Gloucester outer harbor. It is of sea water, but derives its name from the fact that a stream of fresh water empties into it. The English villa on the right, with lawns sloping away to the edge of the cave, is "Brook Bank," the residence of Mr. Samuel E. Sawyer, who gave a liberal sum to found a public library in Gloucester, and for whom the library is named. The fine mansion belonging to the George F. Hovey estate, formerly stood in the grove beyond, at the top of the hill, but was burned in the winter of 1878-9. The surroundings, like those of "Brook Bank," were of the nature of an English villa. ^/ 3fAGN0LIA. It was on this hill, looking over the sea and up and down the coast, that Epes Sargent was inspired to sing : — " Look 1 All the lighthouses Flash greeting to the night. There Eastern Point Flames out ! Lo, little Ten Pound Island follows 1 See Baker's Island kindling I Marblehead Ablaze I Egg Rock, too, off Nahaut, on fire ! And Boston Light winking at Minot's Ledge I Like the wise virgins, all with ready lamps I" The avenue now follows along the side of the hill, the "HESPERUS GULCH," 1 MILE FROM HESPERUS HOUSE. trees and houses far above us on the left, and the ocean sixty or seventy feet below us on the right. On one of GLOUCESTEB. these cliflfs above is the cottage formerly occupied by the late Eben Dale and now the summer residence of his fam- ily. Between here and the town is some attractive nat- ural scenery, and among the handsome residences is that of John Bray on the next hill, to the right. Instead of following the avenue the traveler will enter the field on the shore side and drive along the carriage path past old Stage Fort. This is supposed to be the site of the first settlement on Cape Ann. There is little doubt but that Conant's " large frame house " which was moved to Salem was built in close proximity to the old breastwork here. This land is all in the market, but certain stringent condi- tions attached to all sales have greatly retarded settle- ment. The end of our tour to Gloucester city is soon reached, the distance being only a half mile further and the scenery pleasant. GLOrCESTER. A Drive Through the Town. — Representative Busi- ness HousEg.— History of Churches. — The Fishing Business. TVe enter Gloucester by "Western avenue and cross the town by Main street. There are some fine business houses along this thoroughfare. We have space to refer to but few of them and therefore select representative firms in difi'erent lines of goods. One of the most attractive stores is Tappan's Clothing house established in 1833. This firm occupy a handsome new block, 24 feet front and 80 feet depth, built especially for their business. On the first floor is the large sales-room and on the second floor the work-rooms where all the goods are manufactured. Near Hs GL0UCE8TEB. Tappan's is Pattillo's Dry-goods house, one of the largest of its Ivind on tlie Cape. This establishment has something of a history. It was burnt out in the great fire of 1864, again in 1870, and still again in 1873, and now occupies a large and handsome store in the heart of the city. W. J. Maddocks and Daniel D. Sanders represent the pharma- cists of the town, on opposite sides of the street, both in fine locations and neatly arranged stores. Mr. F. M. Loring near the Post Office, is the principal manufacturer and dealer in hardware and its attendants, always having an immense stock on hand. These are but a few of the many reputable business houses in town, and we can recom- mend them to the reader as just what they are here rep- resented to be. There are no *' special" sights in the city to attract the traveler. The fishing wharves should, by all means, be visited and also the fine new city building. The Eastern railway station is situated on the northerly side of the town and is a handsome structure, built in 1878. The cars leave here for Rockport and for Salem, Boston and all stations on the line, five times each way, every day (Sunday excepted), and in the Summer season a sixth train is run. From here, too, on the arrival of all trains, coaches depart for East Gloucester, Bay View, and Lanes- ville. Hacks are always plenty. There is no restaurant in the station but a good one kept by Mrs. Doe near by will satisfy the hungry tourist. And now a word about Gloucester itself. History in- forms us that two or three expeditions visited the vicinity of Cape Ann early in the seventeenth century and one entered Gloucester harbor as early as 1606. The first at- tempt at settlement however was made by the Dorchester Company which sent over two ships in 1624. The further progress of this settlement is thus tersely described in GLOUCESTER. " Old Nanmkeag" under the chapter relating to the settle- ment of Salem. "When Conant arrived at Cape Ann, "Which must have been some time in the fall of 1625, he found affairs in an unsatisfactory state. The fishing had turned out unprofitable and there was much insubordina- tion. He was unable to revive the interest and in the fall of 1626 the settlement broke up, a portion of the people returning to England. Conant, it appears, had sailed along the shores of Cape Ann as far as the Naumkeag river during the summer of that year, and marked it as one suitable for his purposes. He succeeded in inducing those of the settlers who had not already returned to the mother country to follow him to Naumkeag. They left Cape Ann m September or October, 1626, taking with them all of their household goods and efiects and imple- ments of husbandrj\" Mr. John J. Babson, in a recent work on Gloucester, tells us that there is no certainty as to when the first per- manent settlement of Cape Ann was begun. It was prob- ably as early as 1633. In May 1642 the settlement was incorporated by the General Court as a plantation under the name of Gloucester — the name of the town in England from which most of the first settlers came. Selectmen were first chosen in 1642 at a town meeting held in May or June. A church was organized under Rev. Eichard Blymman, probably in 1643. John Emerson, the third minister was paid " 60 pounds per annum in Indian corn, peas, barley, fish, mackerel, beef or pork." He served 40 years or more. Eev. John White, who succeeded him, was ordained April 21, 1709. The church then had 70 members. At the end of his fifty-first year as a pastor it contained 260 members after three new churches had been organized out of the parish. He died at the age of 83, having served as pastor of this church 58 years. In the GLOUCESTEB. year 1743, the population having outgrown the agricultu- ral capacity of the place, a number of young men emigrated to a township in Maine about twenty miles from Portland which they named New Gloucester in honor of the parent town. Among the citizens of the new town we may now find the names of some of the earlier settler at Cape Ann, such as Eveleth, Grover, Haskell, Evans (properly Nevens) Skellin (now Skillings), Fogg, Rowe, Wharff, Witham and others. Our municipal history of Gloucester may be closed with the incorporation as a city on April 28, 1873, and the inauguration of Robert R. Eears as the first mayor in 1874. Its population by the United States census of 1870 was 15,389. In addition to the First Parish, of which mention has already been made, there were organized, the following :— Second parish. West Gloucester, 1716; Third Parish, Annisquam, 1728, Fourth Parish, 1742; Fifth Parish, San- dy Bay, 1754; Independent Christian Society, 1779; First Baptist, Rockport, 1811 ; Second Baptist, 1830; First Meth- odist, 1821; Second Methodist, 1826; Third Methodist, 1870; Evangelical Society, 1829; North Orthodox, Cong, society, 1831; Catholic, 1849 ; St. John's, Episcopal; East Gloucester Baptist; Swedenborgian ; West Gloucester Universalist; Lanesville Universalist. The town of Gloucester originally included the entire portion of the headland on the northerly side of Massa- chusetts Bay, known as Cape Ann and also a portion of nearly equal extent running back on the cape to Manches- ter. The present city is divided into six distinct villages, East Gloucester ; Annisquam on the North side of the Cape ; Bay View; Lanesville; West Gloucester, and Gloucester village, oi city proper, which borders on the harbor. Each of these villages has a post-office. The harbor is one of the best ports on the coast, safe and easy of access, and GLOUCESTEB. of depth sufficient to float the largest vessel. The princi- pal portion of the city proper, lying around the harbor, is compactly built and picturesquely situated. There are no extensive manufactories in the city. Such small ones as there are, are confined to the manufacture of articles per- taining to the fisheries. There are six marine railways and 70 wharves, on the harbor. The private residences are of the ordinary character to be found in all small cities ; likewise the stores and other semi-public places. There are also insurance companies, banks — national and sav- ings — two newspapers — "Cape Ann Advertiser" and "The Bulletin." Gloucester, as is well-known, is the most extensive fishing port in the country if not in the world. The bus- iness began to be actively pursued in the eighteenth cen- tury. In 1841 it had so increased that seventy fishing vessels were owned in the town. In 1775 the number had increased to eighty of an aggregate tonage of 4000 and an average value of $1400. Besides these fishermen in dis- tant waters, some seventy vessels were employed in fish- ing in home waters. The Grand Bank fishing had, in 1825, from various causes, dwindled to almost nothing. The home fisheries increased, in the mean time, so that by 1828 the value of the cod-fisheries was $120,000. After some years, vessels went to the Georges, and eventually. Grand Bank fishing was renewed with the old time enter- prise. The catching of mackerel in Massachusetts Bay is now, also, an extensive pursuit and highly remunerative. The extent of the fisheries of Gloucester will be compre- hended from the following figures : — In 1865 the number of vessels engaged, was 341, having an aggregate tonage of 24,450 and employing 4090 men. The capital invested was $1,865,700; amount of mackerel caught, 154,938 barrels, valued at $2,190,562; cod and f7 GLOUCESTEB. other dry fish, 113,028 quintals, worth $706,425; value of cod-liver oil sold, $90,420. The total value of all the fish- ery products was $3,319,457. The figures for 1873 are as follows:— Codfish, 460,000 quintals, valued at $2,070,000; other fish, 25,000 quintals, valued at $50,000; fresh fish, including halibut, 9,000,000 pounds, valued at $310,000; oil, 275,000 gallons, valued at $165,000; mackerel, 86,544 barrels, valued at $1,125,000; herring, 5,000 barrels, val- ued at $23,000; shell-fish, 18,000 barrels, valued at $18,000 miscellaneous, $40,000; total value of the fisheries for the year 1873, $3,800,000. There were 375 vessels with 3,500 men engaged in the business that year. The figures for subsequent years are not reliable, those of the State cen- sus of 1875 being especially faulty. The figures for 1876 were:— cod, 2,020,297; halibut, 679,754; mackerel, 710,- 201. These figures are ample to indicate the enormous extent of the fishing business of this port. This work, as all know, is attended with very great danger, nearly as great as that of active service in the army in the time of war. Since 1830, 250 or more vessels and more than 1800 lives have been lost in the fisheries. During the year 1873, alone, 31 vessels and 174 lives were lost. The Gloucester custom's district includes the towns of Manchester, Rockport and Essex. The commerce of the city is very limited, particularly with foreign ports. The exports during 1873 amounted to only $1,512 and the im- ports to $60,735. The latter was mainly of salt, used in the fisheries; about one hundred thousand hogsheads being required annually. The other imports were of fire- wood, fish and potatoes from the provinces. The total number of vessels, sloops, schooners and boats belonging to the port and used in its business, is 446, measuring 28,- 621 tons and manned by about 490 men. 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