rc-Tc |=?AILWAYS. S. CRISTOBAL' S** MARIA S.PEOR0 GUADALliPE AZCAPOIALC TACUBAYA MIXCOAC S ANSEt S** URSULA TUALPArtOi^ ^Oc The figures den MEXICAN RAILWAYS. -vi. .„nsi' -»•.•'• '/x.i FERGUSON'S ^NEODOTICAL GrUIDE MEXICO, WITH A MAP OF THE RAILWAYS. HISTORICAL, GEOLOGICAL, ARCHMOLOGICAL AND CRITICAL, TRANSLATIONS EESERVED. PHILADELPHIA; CLAXTON, EEMSEN & HAEFELFINGER, 624, 626 & 628 MARKET STREET. COPYKIGHT : LANGE, LITTLE & CO. 1876. New York; Lange, Little A Co., Printew, No8. 10 to 50 Astor Place. OONTEJSTTS. CHAPTER I. THE MEXICAN REPUBLIC. PAGE Constitution 7 Population of the Country 8 " of the Principal Cities 8 Finances 8 Imports and Products 8 General Aspect, Climate 9 Altitude of Mountains 9 Ancient Mexico 10 Tlie Conquest 11 The Independence 11 The First Empire 12 The Second Republic 12 The American Occupation 13 The Intervention 13 Tlie Second Empire 14 The Third Republic. 15 Passports, Traveling and Medical Ad- vice 15 Havana, Moneys, Hotels, etc 16 CHAPTER II. VEEA CKUZ. Fort of Ullua 16 Veia Cruz 17 Consuls, Luggage 18 Custom House, Articles Duty-free — 18 Hotels, Curiosities 18 Yellow Fever, Mosquitoes, Northers. 19 Rail waj'' Informal ion 20 Agricultural Matters 20 Immigration — Its Recen t Law 20 CHAPTER III. THE RAILWAYS FROM VERA CRUZ TO JA- LAPA AND MEXICO. From Vera Cruz to Jalapa 22 From Vera Cruz to Mexico City 23 Tejeria 26 Soledad 26 Camaron 26 Paso del Macho •. 26 PAOB. Atoyac 27 Cordova 28 Fortin {Metlac Eavine) 29 Metlac Bridge 30 Orizaba 30 El Tnf.rnillo 31 Maltrata 32 Boca del Monte 33 San Andres 33 LaRinconada 34 San Marcos 34 An Astec Legend 34 Huamaiitla 35 Apizaco 86 Guadalupe, Hacienda 36 Soltepec 36 Apam 36 Irolo 36 Ometusco 36 La Palma 37 Otumba 37 St. Juan Teotihuacan 37 Tepexpan 37 Arrival at Mexico City 37 CHAPTER IV. MEXICO CITT. Modern Mexico 38 The Draining of the Valley 39 Ancient Mexico (Tenochtitlan) 41 Sights in the Streets, Costumes, Cus- toms, etc 41 Commerce, Industry 45 Encampments 46 Dresses, their utility 47 The Horses 47 Bull Rings 48 Card Playing and Mines 49 Horse Catching 50 Curiosities, their prices 50 Cost of Living in Mexico 50 Banks, Carriages 51 Roman Catholicism 51 Protestant Missionaries 52 Bible Depot. 58 IV CONTENTS. PAGE. Cathedral, The 59 Churches, The 61 Alvaredo's Ditch 61 La Soutag 62 Miracle at St. Catalina de Sena, The. 62 Sagragrio, The 62 Orphanage of the Church of Jesus, The 62 Jesuits, The 63 Consulates 63 Dances 63 Doctors, Dentists 64 Diligences 65 Drives. Walks, Gardens 66 Fountains 69 Hospitals 69 Hotels, Restaurants, Cafes 71 Legations 72 Lakes 72 Measures, Moneys, Weights 73 Abandoned Infants' House 74 Alhambra House 74 Bridge of La Lena 74 Astec Calendar 74 Cemeteries 75 Custom-House 75 House of Correction 75 Hum holdt's House 75 Iturbide's House 75 Lotteries 75 Mining Establishment 75 Mint,Tlie 76 Pa^A•n^ng Establishment, The 76 Soldiers, The 76 Superior Counsel of Health 77 Testament and Death of H. Cortes. . . 77 Museums, Libraries, Scientific and Artistic Societies 77 Newspapers, The Principal 78 Palaces 79 Patents, Law on 80 Post-OfHce 80 Pronunciamientos 81 Tramways 82 PAGE. Schools, Colleges 82 Squares and Markets 83 Statues 85 Time Tables of Railways 85 Steamers 87 Telegrams 88 Theatres 88 CHAPTER V. VILLAGES AROUND MEXICO. Chapul tepee 89 Desert of Cnajimalpa 90 Guadalupe (Hidalgo) 90 Ixtacalco— Santa Anita 92 Miscoac 92 Popotla 92 San Angel 92 San Agustin (Tlalpam) 92 Tacuba 94 Tacubaya 94 CHAPTER YL EXCURSIONS. Cholula— see Puebla. Cuernavaca (Ruins of Xochimilco, Caves of Cacahuaroilpa 94 Merida, Progreso, Uxmal, Sabachc. 97 Oaxaca— Mitla 98 Pachuca, Real del Monte, Regla 100 El cerro de Navajos ." 101 Diligence Robbery 102 Popocatepetl 104 Puebla. Cholula. Tecali 105 San Juan Tootihnacan, The Pyra- mids 108 Texcoco, The Brigantine Bridge 11 C Necatza Waterfall Ill Catalogue of the Rulers 112 Calendar Index 117 j \ IlfTEODUOTION. Se"\':eral eminent savants and writers have published their stud- ies and observations on Mexico. Humboldt, has taught us its geog- raphy and its geological formations, and Mihelenpforot, its arch- aeological wonders ; Prescott, has endowed the world with a graphic and interesting history of its conquest by Hernand Cortes ; Coun- tess Calderon de la Barca, has initiated us to the mysteries of Mex- ican life ; MM. Abbot Domenech and Bullock have favored us with the impressions they received during their rapid trips through that charming country. But, apart the scientific and poetical works, in the reading of which travellers indulge by their fireside, or during the torrid hours and deluvial showers of the tropics, they need a practical guide; which, taking them from their home accompanies them through their whole journey, points out and teaches them what is worth seeing and knowing ; and puts them on their guard against the dangers of treacherous climates and the impositions which await them at every step. Such a guide did not exist for Mexico. The number of American and English visitors to that country, which has been slowly increasing every year, but which will consid- erably augment when the country is better known and the line of steamers from Galveston to Vera Cruz is established, has suggested to us the idea of publishing this practical and anecdotical guide. i FEEGUSON^S ANECDOTICAL GUIDE TO MEXICO. CHAPTER I. THE MEXICAN KEPUBLIC — ^LA EEPIIBLICA MEXICANA. The geographical situation of the Mexican Republic is from the 15th degree of lat. to the 32° 42 north, and from the 88°, 54', 80" to the 119°, 25,' 30" of long, west, by the meridian of Paris. The country is limited on the north by the United States of America ; on the south by Guatemala ; on the east by the Gulf of Mexico, and on the west by the Pacific Ocean. It covers a total surface of 1,972,618 square kilometers, (1,224,996 square miles). The Re- public is actually ruled by the con- stitution promulgated on the 12th February, 1857, and amended on the 2oth Sept. 1873. Its President is elected for four years, by uni- versal suffrage, at the second de- gree, and he is invested with the Executive power. He receives yearly for himself and clerks an average of $48,000. The Legisla- tive power is represented by a congress renewed every two years, composed of 224 delegates, (one for each 40,000 inhabitants or frac- tions over 20,000) ; and by a sen- ate,^ composed of two senators for each state, and named by univer- 1 Vote of Congress 25th Sept, 1873. 2 Yote of Congress 29tn January, 1810. 1 sal suffrage at the second degree The third and last one, the Judicial power, consists of the Supreme Court of Justice. Its members number seventeen, and its presi- dent is also the vice-President of the Republic. These members are elected in the same manner as the other two powers. The country comprises twenty- seven states,^ one territory : (Low- er California), and the Federal District, ^ which is divided into four prefectures, namely : the villages of Guadalupe - Hidalgo, Tacubaya, Tlalpam, Xochimilco and Chapultepec, the city of Mex- ico ; * El Molino del P^ey (the king's mill); San Salvador mill and the hacienda (farm), of Teja. The number of inhabitants of the whole Federal District is 315,996, and the total value of its property is $51,650,474. The territory, states and district are free and in- dependent as regards their local in- terests ; but united in one sole fed- eration, according to the constitu- tion of the country (1857.) The entire country enjoys religious lib- 3 Ruled by the laws of 23d June, 1813, and 20th March, 1843. 4 Its municipality is ruled by the law of 20th March, 1840. 8 THE MEXICAN REPUBLIC. erties/ and its press is free.^ The public business is distributed amongst six ministeries, viz : of Be- laciones, Foreign Affairs ; Oober- nacion. Interior ; Justicia y In- struccion Publica, Justice and Ed- ucation ; Fomento, Public Works ; Hacienda y Credito Publico, Fi- nance ; Gtierra y Marina, War and Navy. The total population of the Mex- ican Territory is estimated at 9,097,056 inhabitants (7.42 per square mile), but it is calculated that there are not more than 3,- 500,000 real consumers and mostly foreigners, the necessities of the others being nominal. The population may be classed as follows : Indians or Aztecs. . ) 1,800,000 i-natives. Mexicans \ 4.897.056 Foreigners 2,400,000 The average income of the coun- try is $19,025,000. The budjet is generally about $24,000,000 ; the difference between the receipts and expenses being balanced by the re- duction of pensions, etc. On the 1st January, 1874, the public debt was as follows ; Sono5 Interior.. $2,045,055) Current Debt, In- V terior 10,352,067) $12,397,123 English to 1861 -Exterior, Cap- ital $51,208.2501 English to 1861— 1 Exterior, inier- | est 12,289,880 J Spanish to 1861- Exterior, capi- tal 5,900,000 bpanish lo 1861- Exterior, inter- est l,500,00OJ Convention debt, capital 3,912,4531 Convention debt, }- interesr 439,895 J American debt Father Moran's debt— capi- tal and interest 9,097,056 POPULATION OF THE PRINCIPAL CITIES OF MEXICO. Cities. Apuacalientes.. Celaj'M Colima Duranso Guadalajara Guanajuato Leon Mcrida Mexico Morelia Oaxaca Orizaba Puebia Queretaro Salva Horra San Luis Po'^osi San Miguel Al- lende Zacaiecas States. Aguacalientcs.. Guanajuato Colima Durango .Jalisco I Guanajuato Leon Yucatan Federal District ^Michoacan Oaxaca Vera Cruz Puebia Queretaro Guanajuato San Luis Potosi Guanajuato. Zacatecas . . . Popuk tion. 31.000 37,000 22,000 26,000 75.000 56,000 90,000 32,000 180,000 25,009 20.000 12,500 68.000 48.000 28,000 31,000 35,000 33,000 » Laws of 12th July, 1859, and 4ih Dec. I860. - Law of 2d Fcbruarj', 1861. 63,498,130 ,400,000 4.352,348 401,635 800,000 $88,8-^9,235 According to a recent official re- port, the goods imported annually into the Eepublic amount to $29,- 000,000, whereas the yearly ex- port trade is about $31,700,000. The greatest part of the imports is manufactured goods sent by the United States of America and Eu- rope. The raw materials shipped from Cuba, South America and In- dia, being of small importance. The exports principally consist of gold and silver coined and in bars, viz. : Gold, $1,000,000; silver, $24,000,000, the export duties be- ing 5 per cent, on silver, and k per cent, on gold.^ The balance of 3 The total amount of the yearly coin- age in twenty-one mints averages $20,000,- 000. The ore exported is about 1,000 tons. THE MEXICAN REPUBLIC. 9 the export trade is composed of coffee, tobacco, sugar, cocliineal, indigo, medicinal ingredients, rice, beans {frijoles), bides, vanilla, co- coa, salt, fruit, wool, dye woods and ingredients, precious stones, etc., etc. Besides these articles of exportation, many otber Mexi- can products are consumed in the country itself, such as copper, mer- cury, iron, lead, zinc, marble, maize, cotton, corn, lucern, sulphur, etc. The general aspect of Me- xico is that of a mountainous country, and, singular to say,those same mountains which contain in their bowels over two hundred different minerals, and which, therefore, constitute one of the principal riches^ of the territory, have been the principal reason why the capital is so far behind the progress of Europe and the United States of America, on account of the deficiency of communication which existed before the comple- tion of the railway from Vera Cruz to Mexico city (1873). The Cordillera {Sierre Madre), the main range of mountains which extends through the whole country from the southeast to the northwest, forms a continuous chain, the de- clivities of which slope gradually down towards the Pacific ocean on one side and the Mexican gulf on the other, interrupted now and then by plateaux, on which towns are to be found by the side of fresh water lakes, rivers, and luxuriant vegetation. Although this richly endowed country is under the trop- ics, the perfect combination of na- ture has bestowed on it three dif- ferent climates, from the torrid lands (tierra caliente) of the coasts, to the icy regions {tierra fria) of the mountains ; the temperate cli- mate (tierra templada), occupying the intermediate altitudes, thus presenting to the eye of the tour- ist an evergreen and varied vege- tation. The productive valleys in- tersected by rivers, and fertilized by the waters rushing down rav- ines and carrying with them the rich soil of virgin forests, yield flowers and fruits of ev^ry de- scription, from the European rose and apple, to the Cuban cactus and guayave, besides other species unknown to any country. Al.TITlTDEtf OF THE PRINCIPAL MOUNTAINS OF MkXICO. Names of Mountains and their States. Above sea 1. Observations & Eruptions. actual State. Ainpeo, Mexico 13 625 Feet. Cofre de Perote, Vera Cruz 13.400 *' Oolinia, Volcano in eruption, Jalisco 13,050 " 1590, 1818, 1872, 1873. Ixtlacihualtl, Mexico 15.650 " Perpetual snow. Jacol, Hidalgo 10,250 " Malinche, Piiebla 13.475 " Nevado de Tolnca. Volcano unex- Mexico 14,575 " Perpetual snow. tinguished. O-ganos de Aclopan, Ridalgo Vera Cruz 10,250 " Pico de Orizaba. Volcano unex- 17,375 " 1546, 1687. Perpetual snow. tinguii^hed. Pico de Quinceco, Michoacan 10,925 " Popocaltepec. Volcano unextin- Mexico 17,550 " Perpetual snow. 1548. guished. Veta Grande, Zacatecas 9,125 " Zempoaliecatl, Oaxaca 11,150 " 1 Near toHnetamo, m the direction of the Pacific, there is a mountain of pure ii-on. One block of pure silver ore found iu Sonora, weighed 2,700 lbs. 10 THE MEXICAN REPUBLIC. We have given intentionally the Mexican names to the mountains, so that travellers may inquire for them. As regards their altitudes, as there are not two authors who agree about them, we liave taken the medium between the two ex- tremes and in round n ambers. There is no certainty as to the origin of the first inhabitants of the Mexican Territory. Some ge- ologists affirm that in a far remote period, there existed a great num- ber of islands between Africa and America, and others claim that the old and the new worlds were but one single continent united by the " Atlan tide." Whatever may have been the mode of communi- cation between them ; by short sea voyages or by land ; facts lead us to suppose that there once ex- isted connections between Egypt, the north of Asia and Yucatan, which is the most prominent point east of Central America. And those facts are the similitude of the ruins of the Pyramids, the hier- oglyj^hics and the sculptures of both countries. Those of Yuca- tan are conclusive, and although those around Mexico are not so striking, still, there cannot be any doubt, that one continent receiv- ed the principles of architecture from the other. Towards the year GOT, a civilized race called the toltecas which means "architects " or "artificers ",^ came from beyond Jalisco and founded ^ This name of architect corresponds to tiiose of tlie Egyptians who had charge of public bnildin-is. They belon<:ed to the clergy; their plans were executed by the dyohisiasts 1000 years B. C. the city of Tollan (Tula). Four hundred years afterwards, the Tol< tecas were replaced by the barbar- ous tribe of Chichemecas ; but not before they had built cities and civ- ilized the country. Thus, the civ- ilization imported into Yucatan by the Eastern nations spread itself throughout "Anahuac" occupied by difiierent tribes, amongst which the Astecs were the most powerful; for when Cortes invaded Mexico (1519) it was in the possession of the latter, who, according to the most trustworthy records, migrated towards the year 1275, from Azt- lan (the country of the herrons). sit- uated on the north of the Gulf of California ; but they did not lay the foundations of the City of Mexico until the 18th July, 1327. During half a centuiy they had led a roaming life, owing partly to continual wars with other occupants of the Anahuac valley ; but especially because their priests, who were also their chiefs, had not, until then, met with the realization of one of their oracles, which ordained : that the Astecs were to build their capital, on the very spot where they found an eagle perched on a rock. On the above day they halted on the borders of Lake Texcoco. To the triumph of the priests, and the joy of the people, they discovered the TenucJitli, the long looked for omen: on a piece of land, above the surface of and surrounded by the water, they beheld a nopal, on which a bird of prey was settled, devouring a serpent. Thence the origin of the coat of arms of Mex- ico. The new town sprung up THE MEXICAN BEPUBLIG. 11 from amidst tlie waters and receiv- ed the name of the Oracle ; but it was ultimately changed into Ten- ochtitlan, which means "Nopal on stone," and finally received the ac- tual name of Mexico, which means, in the Astec language, "Source" or "Fountain." Some aathors attri- bute the origin of the word to Mex- itli, the name of one of the Astec gods which was adored in the cap- ital. No sooner did the city be- come large and the community rich, than, like the children of Israel, the people separated into two tribes ; one of which built the neighboring town of Tlaltelolco ; but it became annexed to Mexico before the conquest, and the whole formed the capital of Montezuma's empire, the toial population being then over 300,000 inhabitants. Although the city was chiefly built on piles and sods, it increas- ed in beauty, as the Astecs acquir- ed knowledge from the remnants of the Toltecas tribe and from the Acolhuas tribe, so 'that at the time of the conquest it was well worthy of the name of "The Mexican Ven- ice." But that marvelous city, so prosperous and industrious, disap- peared with the Mexican empire, partly destroyed by Cortes, who, after having been received as a messiah, was obliged to flee ; but he reappeared on land and on the lake and completed the destruction of the capital on the 13th August, 1521, after three months' siege. Still the country was not subdued entirely, and Cortes thought it pru- dent to keep near his person, as an hostage, the heroic Guantimotzin, made a prisoner at the fall of Mex- ico. This chief was tlie nephew of Montezuma II., and had mount- ed the throne after the death, by small-pox, of his father, Cuitlahu- atzin I. Cuantimotzin, the caciques of Tacubaya and Texcoco, accom- panied Cortes on his excursion to Yucatan. On the way, the latter accused them of conspiracy, and sentenced them to be hanged to a Pochotl (Ceiba tree), on the 3d March, 1525,^ at Teotilac, near to Tabasco. Before dying, the ex-em- peror, calling Cortes by his sur- name, addressed him thus : "I well " knew ifrt/Mic/ie, what would be "the result of my faith in thy "promises ; and that thou reserv- " est me for this end. Ah ! why " did I not die by my own hand, "when thou invadest my capital "of Tenochtitlan ! " The whole conquered country re- mained a Spanish colony until a few patriots undertook to free it from the yoke of Spain. Already two symptoms of revolt had taken place; the first on the 21st January, 1751, and the second vv^hen Fernand VII. abdicated the throne of Spain. The municipality of Mexico city having declared the country free. Viceroy Iturigaray and his wife were arrested in the night of the 15th Sept. 1808. The first cry of Independence w^as raised on the loth Sept. 1810, at 11 o'clock p. M., by Miguel Hidalgo, a priest, at Dolores Hi- dalgo, a village in the State of Gu- anajuato ; but together with three others, he was seized on the 21st 1 Some say it wa^ on the 25th February previous. 12 THE MEXICAN REPUBLIC. Marcli 1811, by tlie Spaniards, and hanged on tlie 31st July following. On tlie lotli January, 1812, Gener- al Jose Maria Morelos and Ignacio Kaymond made tlieir declaration in favor of Independence, tlius con- tinuing the work of their unfortu- nate predecessors. They finally established a congress at Chilpan- cingo, which, on the 16th Nov. 1813, solemnly declared the Independ- ence of Mexico. The first consti- tution of the new Eepublic was promulgated at Apatziugan, on the 24th October, 1814. Morelos did not long survive his triumph, for on the 6th Xovember of the follow- ing year, he was made a prisoner, and was shot at Christobal Eca- tepec, on the 21st December, 1815. But the impulse w^as given ; many a courageous man was gained to the national cause ; such were Al- varez, Allende, Aldama, Bravo, Ga- leana, Matamoros, Vicente Guer- rero, Eosains, Teran, etc. etc. As fast as the revolution gained ground, deserters of all ranks, from the Spanish camp, rallied the In- dependents. The Spanish General, Mina, disembarked troops and provisions for the insurgents on the coast of Tamaulipas ; but he also met with an untimely end ! It was then that Vicente Guerrero sustained a guerilla war, and was joined by Augustin de Iturbide, who took the conim.and of the In- dependent army and completed the Independence of his country on the 24th August, 1821, by the treaty signed between him and the Span- ish General O'Donoje' at flie vil- 1 The Sjjanish goverument disapproved him. lage of Iguala, State of Guerrero; after w'hich he made his entry into the City of Mexico at the head of his victorious army, known as the trigarante, on the 27th September, 1821. The word alludes to the three colors, green, - white and red of the flag of Inde- pendence, which still exists. This flag replaced that of Hidalgo representing the Virgin of Guada- lupe. If Iturbide had imitated the wisdom of Washington, and limited his ambition, (had he not acquired glory enough ?), he would have saved his own life, his family from misery,"^ and his country from im- mense trouble ; but he was weak enough to accept the title of em- peror, which was bestow'ed on him wdth enthusiasm, by a blind popu- lation, at the instigation of Pio Marcha, a sergeant of his army, (18 May, 1822). He was anointed in the Cathedral of Mexico, on the 21st June following. It was then that began that era of pronunciajyitntos which have been so frequent in this country. General Santa Anna, who is still alive, placed himself at the head of a revolt (6 Dec, 1822). To save his country from civil war, Iturbide abdicated on the 19th March, 1823,^ and no later than the 2od April following, just ten months after he had mounted 2 Oiif of his sons held an e;Uinij;-hoiive at Coiirhevdie, near Paris, and died w- rently. M;iximiiian adopted his (laughter iind another son. and acknowledged the latter as his t^uccessor. 3 On the 5th January, 1&53. Genera] Arista, then President of the Mexican Kepiiblic, imitated that noble conduct. THE MEXICAN BEPUBLIG. 13 tlie throne, lie- left Mexico and went into exile. He embarked at Vera Cruz, on board the Englisli brigantine "Rawlins," on tlie lltli May following. Not knowing that he had been sentenced to death, per contumax, the ex-emperor came back to Mexico, hoping to be received with open arms. It was on the 14tli July, 1824, that he entered the port of Soto La Marina, State of Tamaulipas ; he landed the next day, and was made a prisoner. On the 19th he was executed at the borough of Padilla, at the age of 44. His remains were transferr- ed from there and deposited in the chapel of the Cathedral of Mexico, called "San Felipe de Jesus." They are contained in a crystal urn, with gilded bronze orna- ments. The ceremony at the cathedral took place on the 27th Sept., 1838, under the direction of M. Jose Eamon Pacheco. Since the abdication of Iturbide the country has been alternatively ruled by central and federal forms of governments, by the liberal and clerical parties, dictators, a regen- cy, another empire, and is actually under a liberal government. Santa Anna held the power seven times ! and from 1824 until 1872, the gov- ernment changed as many as 57 times, an average of more than once a year. The first republican constitution- al congress after Itturbide's re- treat, was opened on the 1st Jan- uary, 1825. Slavery was abolished throughout the Mexican Territory on the 16th Sept., 1829,' and in the ^ The congress sanctioned this decree ou ihe 31st January, 1824. same year the Spanish inhabitants were expelled from the country. Since its independence the Mexi- can Territory has been invaded four times, viz. : in 1829, by the Spaniard Barradas ; in 1838, by the Prince of Joinville ; in 1847, by the American army, under Gen. Scott ; and finally, in 1862, by the combined armies of England, France, and Spain, The two first invasions were not followed up. Al- though the Americans met with stubborn resistance at Vera Cruz, Cerro Gordo, Contreras, Churubus- co, Molino del Eey, and Chapulte- pec, they entered victoriously into the cai^ital, and only withdrew from the country until after the treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo, of the 2d February, 1843, which ceded to the U. S. of America Upper Califor- nia, New Mexico, Texas, and part of Coahuila. In exchange, the U. S. of America paid an indemnity of $15,000,000 to Mexico. The recent invasion was still more serious. On the 31st October, 1861, England, France, and Spain signed, in Lon- don, a treaty, by which they agreed to send men-of-war into the waters of Vera Cruz, and in case the Mexican government did not give satisfaction to the holders of Mexican bonds and the claimants of the three countries, they were to invade the country. The allied forces arrived in the port of Vera Cruz on the 8th Dec, 1861, and one month afterwards : General Prim, the French Ambassador M. de Saligny, and Admirals Wyke and Dunlop, issued a proclamation to the Mexican people, declaring that the motive of their presence on the 14 THE MEXICAN REPUBLIC. Mexican soil was merely to settle financial questions. After an ex- cliange of diploma'ic notes, tlie preliminary treaty of La Soledad was signed (lOtli February, 1862,) between General Prim and Dobla- do, the Mexican representative. The treaty stipulated that satisfac- tion would be given to the claim- ants by the Mexican government, and that meanwhile, the French troops might advance to Tehuacan and the Spanish ones to Orizaba ; but that both should retire in case the treaty was ratified by the English and French representa- tives. The treaty was ratified, and accordingly the English and Spanish commanders withdrew their troops ; but the French chief, instead of imitating them, pene- trated into the country. Another proof to add to so many others, that promises and pie-crusts are made to be broken ; or as Talleyrand said : " that treaties are made to be torn up." Every friendly attempt was made, on the part of the Mexican government, to stop the French invasion. M. Monti uc, the Mexican consul in Paris, i)rotested through a leading newspaper ; he was imprisoned ! M. Jose Ramon Pacheco was sent to Paris ; but not being able to pass through Vera Cruz, he went by Tampico, but did not get any farther than New York. And when the invaders arrived near Puebla, M, Lerdo de Tejada, the actual president of the republic, then minister of Hacienda, and chief of the cabinet, went to meet the French general, with the positive instructions from his gov- ernment to come to an arrange- ment "on any terms" as he said to a friend before leaving the cap- ital ; but the enemy was deter- mined to pursue his course. The French troops under the command of Gen. Laurencey made for the capital. They were defeated at Puebla, on the oth May, 1862, but took possession of it on the 17th May, 1863, and made their entry into Mexico city, headed by Gen. Bazaine, on the 7th June following. On the 10th July, 1863, the Mexicans offered the throne of Montezuma to Maximilian, who accepted it on the 11th April, 1864. He arrived at Vera Cruz on the 29th May following. He reached his capital ^\ith his wife on the 12th June, and made his official entry on the 12th July. As soon as the war of secession was over, the American govern- ment made a certain pressure on Xapoleon III., which caused the latter to withdraw his support from the Mexican empire. Depu- tations after deputations, sent by Maximilian to the French emperor, met with positive refusals ; the unhappy Carlotta threw herself at the feet of Napoleon III., nothing could change his resolution ; be- sides the influence of the Wash- ington cabinet, the members of the opi)osition at home, and the people themselves were asking for the [recall of the French army. The j unfortunate empress became iu- i sane! . . . Eenito Juarez, who, en ! the arrival of the invaders, had i retired into the interior, organized \ a naiioual resistance and was hold- ing the field. Maximilian left THE MEXICAN REPUBLIC. 15 Mexico City on the 22d February, 1867, and marclied against Mm, but was made a prisoner at Quere- taro, on the 15th May following. He was judged and condemned to death. He was executed on the 19th June, 1867,— aged 35 years, at the same time as Miramon, an ex- president of the republic, and Gen- eral Mejia. At "El Cerro de las Campanas," — the hill of bells. A heap of stones, surmounted with a wooden cross, reminds the passers- by, that a political crime was com- mitted on that spot ! The unfortu- nate emperor gave up his sword to General Escobedo, who delivered it to Juarez, in the possession of whose family it remained until 1875, when it was offered to the present President of the republic, M. Lerdo de Tejada. Although the imperial army was defeated, the capital was in pos- session of the conservative party, ^ but General Porfirio Dias took possession of it on the 21st June, and Benito Juarez entered it once more, on the 15th July following. He retained the presidency until his death (18th July, 1872), when he was succeeded by Sebastian Lerdo de Tejada, the actual Piesi- dent. Travellers require no passports for Mexico, still it is prudent to have one, so as to prove their iden- tity ; but in case they should land at Havana they must be provided with one, mse by a Spanish con- sul — whose fee varies according to the country, from $2 to $4. On 1 Thp Frei)ch troops had left on the 5th February, 1867. arriving at Havana, the police put a stamp on the passport, the charge of which is $2 gold ; but green- backs are accepted. On leaving Havana, another 'olsa is required. It is obtained by putting on the passport a stamp of 25 cents (cur- rency) and getting it cancelled at the passport office in the Gover- nor's palace. The climate of Ha- vana and Vera Cruz is always hot, winter and summer ; therefore, linen or alpaca clothes are the most convenient ; but for the plateaux of Puebla and Mexico, light woolen cloth is the most suitable, and a summer overcoat is indispensable for the journey from Vera Cruz to the capital, and for evenings, which are always cool in Mexico City. A doctor, a friend of ours, has kindly given us a few medical re- commendations for visitors to the tropics, viz. : Never stand exposed to the sun or moon bareheaded. Always put on an extra dress after sunset. At sea, take early in the morning congress water or oranges. Before meals, a glass of bitters is a good tonic and a relief to sea- sickness. Ice in small lumps stops vomiting. On the morning before going on shore take a Sedlitz pow- der ; also on arriving at Mexico. • In case of headache, which is very frequent in the capital, sleep with a silk kerchief around your head. Eat with moderation the fruit of the tropics. Nemr drink alcoholic liquors whilst eating bananas — it is poisonotis. Remain indoors from 10 A. M. to 4 P. M. Do not drink any spirits. In case of being at- tacked by the yellow fever, send 16 V^EA CRUZ. at once for a native doctor. Tliey have, tlie most, practice and rarely lose a patient, when they are called, for in time. At Havana, as well as at Vera Cruz, steamers throw anchor at a certain distance from the landing pier. It is advisable to agree on the price of the small boats, which come to take passen- gers on shore, or the latter are li- able to be imposed upon. A fair offer is half the price asked for. The price of carriages at Havana is as follows : From any part of the town to another, 2 reales cur- rency, or 25 cents. For one hour or part of an hour, 4 reales curren- cy, or 50 cents. The official money current is the Spanish gold and silver coins, viz. : £. s. d. The gold ounce, or 16 dollars 3 4 The silver dollar, or 8 reales 4 The " hall' dollar, or 4 reales, 2 The " quailer dollar, or 2 reales 1 The silver real, equivalent to 12-J- cents 6i The silver half real, equivalent to 6i- cents 3} The Spanish ounce is accepted by the government for $17 gold ; the American $20 gold piece for $21 ; the object of giving this pre- mium is to keep the gold in the country. Greenbacks follow the New York market. The Havana currency is variable ; it is, there- fore, advisable to change one's gold daily, only for expenses : Hotel de Inglaten-a, $5 per day,all included " Telecrafo, 5 " " " " " Don Carlos, 2i '• " " " " Europa, Sj- " " " " ill Cuban currencj'. Beware of interpreters who go on board to entice passengers to their hotels ; but, in case of ac- cepting their services, stipulate I)rices in advance, in gold or cur- rency. A Ion entendeur, salut. CHAPTER II. VERA CE,UZ. On arriving in view of Vera Cruz, which lies by 19° 11' 32" of latitude and 96% 8', 54" long. N. meridian of Greenwich, the travel- ler sees, on his right, the town it- self; and, on his left, the fort of San Juan d'Ullua, at the base of which all ships are anchored, and at 70 miles beyond the port, the cape of Perote and the Peak of Ori- zaba, known by the Indians as Chi- caltepec, (mountain of the Star,) on account of the light which was seen on its summit in former days. The sailors call it Paloma Mexi- cana, JNIexican Dove and Estrella de las Mares, Star of the Seas. The fort, which is also a prison, is built on the small island on which Her- nand Cortes landed on the 21st of April, 1519 ; it was began in 1569, and finished in 1633, by the Span- iards, in whose power it remained until several years after the Inde- pendence of Mexico. This island! ell momentarily into the hands of Sir T. Hawkins in 1568, and into those of Nicolas Agramont, the pirate, in 1583 ; but it was soon recovered from them. In 1825, it was sur- rendered to the Mexican General, Barragan. In 1838, the Prince of Joinville, son of Louis Philippe, also took possession of it. In 1847, the American army occupied it VBMA CRUZ. 17 until 1848, and it was finally aban- doned by the Mexicans wlien the allied forces of England, France and Spain arrived in the waters of Vera Cruz. On the 18th May, 1858, the Constitutional Govern- ment of Mexico, withdrew within its walls. Its members were Be- nito Juarez, President ; Miguel Lerdo de Tejada, Chief of the Cab- inet ; Ocampo, Euiz Emparon, etc. There, they prepared the reform laws whilst Miguel Miramon, the then victorious clerical pronuncia- do, was bombarding the fort. The boats which were taking the old and children were also fired on. Captain Aldham, of the Valorous, went to Mexico to put a stop to that barbary. On his return to the coast, between Cordova and Penuela, the diligence in which he was with the English Consul, Mr. Glennie, and his family, was stopped and the Consul fired at ; Captain Aldham was shot through the leg. His companions killed several robbers and the others ran away. On the 28th August, 1864, several inhabitants of Mexico City were imprisoned within the walls of the fort, having advocated republican principles. It took its name from Juan de Grijalva, who had first visited it on the 24th June, 1818, St. Juan's day. The first houses built at Vera Cruz by the conquerors, were sit- uated on the same spot where the city now stands ; the new colony was called Villa Rica de la Vera Cruz, "the rich town of the true cross ; " but, a few months later, it was transferred 12 miles further north, where it remained until 1524. It was then taken by Cortes to the spot now known as La An- tigua Vera Cruz, " the old Vera Cruz," and finally re-established in the year 1600, under Monterey, in its primitive and actual situation. By these migrations the Spaniards hoped to free themselves of the vomito; but, as it is produced by the bad quality of the water, the reflection of the sun on the sands and the emanations of the marshes, they found that the whole coast was infected. The town is small, only containing about 12, COO inhabitants, its float- ing population being 41,000. It is surrounded by fortifications erect- ed in 1793, on which are placed over 100 guns ; they measure in circumference about 8,500 feet. The city suft'ered considerably in 1606, 1608 and 1612, from two se- vere fires, and was pillaged on the 17th May, 1693, by the filibusters Nicolas Agramont and Lorenzo Graff, surnamed Lorencillo. The city of Vera Cruz is the capital of the State of the same name, and is merely a commercial centre. It is the principal port of the Mexican Republic, and through it passes from one-half to two-thirds of all Mexican imports and exports. Be- fore 1835, all the goods landed at Vera Cruz for the capital and the interior, were forAvarded by mules; but at that epoch, M. Joseph Faure, a native of Foix, Ariege, France, established a regular ser- vice of wagons drawn by mules. By that means also the conductos of specie were forwarded to this port for shipment, escorted by a detachment of cavalry. Since the IS VEHA CRUZ. opening of tlie railway from Vera Cruz to Mexico, many merchants of tlie interior of tlie country, who were accustomed to make their purchases in the capital, go to Vera Cruz, which is becoming the general entrepot of the Repu- blic. The extra duty on the duties already paid at Vera Cruz and per- ceived at Mexico City, makes them dearer than, at the port. The only place of recreation or pleasure grounds to which the Vera Cruz- ians can stroll, are the Alameda, at the south gate, and Medellin, a vil- lage of 380 inhabitants, situated at the junction of two rivers : the Jamapa and Atoyac, and at a very short distance by tramv»*ay. The name was chosen by Hernand Cortes, when the village was lo- cated (1521), and in souvenir of his native town. Consuls, America: S. T. Trowbige. EnuHand: " '• Fiance: " " Germany: Carlos Irese. Iraly: Fernando Formento. Spain: Francisco Miinos de Moncada. Those who do not wish to re- main in town may send their lug- gage direct from the custom house to the station, where they can register it and take their tickets at any hour of the day and even- ing, except from midday to 2 P. M. In case of diflficulty at the cus- tom-house, travellers can claim the assistance of the interpreter. If the custoni-house be closed when passengers land, they are only allowed to carry off a small bag containing personal effects; it is, therefore, prudent to prepare oneself before leaving the steam- er, so much the more so, that, no luggage is allowed in the railway cars, more than a package of small wlume. Besides personal clothing, the quantity of which is ad- mitted free, according to the con- dition of travellers, each gentle- man has a right to enter free of duty: 2 watches and chains, 3 pounds of tobacco, wrought or in cigars ; one pair of revolvers, their accessories and 200 rounds ; one sword, one riile, its accessories and 200 rounds ; one pair of musi- ^ cal instruments, except pianos and fl organs ; instruments of science. ■ Old furniture pays according to its degree of use ; one set of tools. Dramatic artists have a right to introduce free of duty all their costumes, if they be in a reasona- ble quantity ; all extra quantity i having to be the object of a special " 1 demand for admission, addressed to the custom-house oflBcials. We will do justice to the custom-house officers by stating that they are very liberal to- wards foreigners. Hotels : de la Veracruzana — de las Diligencias — de Mexico — The first hotel is highly recommenda- ble, it being modern, spacious and clean. The table is good and the service is prompt. As a general rule, we ad- vise travellers to choose, in pref- erence, the hotel de las Diligencias throughout the whole country, ex- cept in Mexico and Vera Cruz. The reason of our recommenda- tion, is that the diligences all had, between Vera Cruz and Mexico, and have still elsewhere, their of- fices in the hotels of that name. The result is, that as most travel- VEBA CRUZ. 19 lers take in preference tlie nearest hotel at hand, the proprietors have studied their comfort, as far as comfort exists in Mexico. Setting apart its history, Vera Cruz presents very little interest to travellers, and when they have heen to Medellin, seen the Alame- da, the zopilotes^ [turkey-buzzards], which clear the streets of part of its filth, visited the municipal pal- ace huilt in 1609 ; the popular library established in the ancient convent of San Francisco, and a few churches, they cannot do better than to seek protection against the four plagues of the city : the heat, the Vomito negro (black vomit,) of which the yellow fever is the first degree, the norte (norther) and the zancudos, (mosquitoes.) Strangers can partially protect themselves from three of them, viz : from the heat, by remaining indoors during the middle of the day ; from the fever, by following our medical advice (page 15) ; from the mosqui- toes, by sleeping under curtains and rubbing the parts of their body uncovered, i. e., hands and face, with Eau de Cologne or toilette water. As to the norte, it is al- most impossible to protect one's self from its effects. Indoors, one is annoyed with the rattling of the doors and windows ; and the dust finds its way through them, how- soever well they may be closed. Outside, one is blinded by the sand and overthrown by theviolen'^e of the wind. In a couple of hours the aspect of the town is entirely transformed. Before tbe norte (1) There is a fine inllicted on any one who destroys them. comes on, the sky is clear and blue; the sun bright and scorching ; the sea calm and transparent ; the harbor covered with boats and lighters ; the mole busy with car- gadores (porters), loading and un- loading, running to and fro, bare- footed in their white cotton clothes, dazzling in the blazing atmosphere ; all is life and gaiety, for the Vera- cruzians are of a happy disposi- tion. But, no sooner do the waves whiten on the horizon, and the wind blow from the N. W., than the scene is instantly changed. The ships at anchor tighten their lines and close their hatchways ; but before the natives can raise their light skiffs upon the pier, the sea comes rolling over the mole, covering the whole custom house with spray. The citizens close their doors and windows, for the sky is obscured by clouds of sand, which rush through the streets borne on by the norther ; whilst, in the distance, is heard the roaring of the waters of the gulf and their splashing over the fortifications. Those who are ob- liged to go out of doors, slide close to the walls and look chilly and awe struck ; they, who a few hours before were sprawling on the steps of the buildings, watching the as- cending smoke of their cigarettes in a dreamy state of indolence. Those only, who have witnessed and suffered from a norte at Vera Cruz, can conceive a feeble idea of M^hat must have been the last days of Pompeii. The north- ers are felt on all the coast of Texas and in the gulf. Whilst ithey last it is impossible to dis- 20 VERA CRUZ. embark eitlier goods or passen- gers. As it is shown in the railway time table, the train for the inte- rior leaves Vera Cruz at 4 A. m. ; but all luggage should be registered before 10 o'clock P. m. Each traveller is entitled to 30 pounds of luggage, the extra weight being charged at the rate of |4. 50 per cwt. Those who have through tickets to Mexico or Pue- bla may stay one day at Orizaba. A restaurant in front of the station is open until the train leaves. We advise those who are not obliged to stay at Orizaba for rest, to go through to the capital at once, and to visit on their return the towns which interest them, un- less they go through to the Pacific. During the journey a clerk, be- longing to the Express Mexicano, passes through the cars so as to collect the tickets and keys of the luggage of those who do not wish to take the trouble to pass it through the custom-house at Mex- ico. The express company de- livers the luggage to the travel- ler's address. The other Mexican ports on the Gulf of Mexico are: Matamoros, Tuxpan, Tampico, Alvarado, Pro- gresso, Campeche and Carmen, from which are principally export- ed the vegetable products of the country, which varies much in quantity and quality. The land is very far from yielding what it would, were it properly culti- vated. The whole eastern part of the country from Yucatan to Texas is the richest soil in the world, maize producing 300 fold. and we can add, one of the most sparel}' populated. Immense tracts of land remain uncultivated for want of intelligent farmers with capital. For example, in the State of Vera Cruz there are only 4,35 inhabitants per square mile. The whole country belongs to a few hacendados (farmers), who do not cultivate the tenth part of their property, and the part which they do work is tilled in the old way ; the result is, that the Indian peas- ant, not owning any laud, and hav- ing no homestead, does not take any interest in the welfare of his country, his only object being to live from day to day. Therefore, there is a large field for a certain class of immigrants. We do not mean immigrants in general, vag- rants, or those who leave Europe penniless, nor even laborers, nor worknien of any trade ; for they would not find remuneration for their labor, the peones, Indian la- borers and negroes,^ being in suf- ficient quantities and working as low as 25 cents a day. But we ad- vise farmers, having a small cap- ital, to come here with new agri- cultural implements. They can find land to buy at a ridiculous low price, all along the coast and as high on the plateaus as they like, according to the nature of the products they wish to cultivate. Down in the Ticrra Caliente, the hot land, they can grow cotton, su- gar, maize, cotTee and all tropical fruits, for which there is so large 1 Some brought into the country liy the Spaniards, and othcrt^ (runaways) from the U. S,; they are superior to tlie natives. So say the women who preler them ! . . . VERA CRUZ. 21 a demand in the TJ. S. ; higlier up, grain of every description, live stock, etc., grow in abundance, and all can be disposed of in tbe home markets. Several products give four abundant harvests a year in tbe bot regions and two in tbe temperate ones, and were tlie soil properly tilled it would yield still more. Several intelligent land-bolders have told us tbat they are disposed to sell part of tbeir property pay- able yearly, tbe first installment to be made after five years occupation. Tbey offer to enter into a company wbicb would undertake to bring tbe immigrants; so tbat tbe latter migbt bave all desirable security. Moreover, the Congress has just voted a law to encourage immi- gration, and has authorized the Executive Power to make con- tracts with companies or private individuals on the following basis. In its next session it proposes to elaborate a definitive law on the matter. I. "The President of the Repub- lic has authority to contract with those who undertake immigration for Mexico, allowing a subvention to all families already established in the country, and to those who have disembarked on the coasts; to make an advance of as much as 50^ of the same subvention, the bor- rower to pay a reasonable interest; to sell at a low rate and payable at a long term, cultivable lands; to give premiums to families of immi- grants; to free from harbor charges, all ships bringing to Mexico at least ten families of immigrants; to grant a premium to all families of natives establishing themselves in colonies of immigrants or on tho coasts. II. To exact from all contractors sufiicient guarantees for the ful- filment of their contracts ; to fore- see the cases of impotency and the fines to apply in such cases ; to take measures so that the colo- nists really enjoy the benefits of this law. III. To grant to immigrants let- ters of Mexican naturalization, and citizenship when already natural- ized; a supplement of passage and subsistance during the first year of their establishment ; agricultural implements and materials of con- struction ; to sell, payable by monthly installments, beginning two years after their radication, lands for cultivation and building purposes; tbe exemption from mili- tary service and all contributions, except those of their own municipal- ity; also from all duties and internal octrois on provisions, agricultural implements, tools, machinery, in- struments, building materials, use- ful furniture, animals for labor or breeding; and personal exemption, without power of transferring it, of all export duties on products grown by the parties; free corres- pondance with their native country •or former residence, through tbe ministry of foreign affairs or by the means of stamps; and finally premiums and special protection for the introduction of any new process of culture or industry. IV. To oblige the immigrants to fulfil their contract, in conformity with reciprocal laws. V. To appoint the committee of 22 THE RAILWAYS. exploration, authorized by the 20tli section of the budget now in vigor; the said committee to act in sucli a way, as to obtain cultivable lands on the required conditions of measurement, boundaries, valua- tion, and description. VI. He who fulfils the condi- tions of the previous paragraph, thus giving possession of an inde- finite tract of land, to be entitled to the third of it or of its value, after being duly authorized. VII. The said authorization to be the exclusive right of the Executive power, which cannot refuse it to a State, claiming it for a tract of land, situated on its own territory. The authorizations given to States or individuals, to be null and void, or without any right to prorogation, when the corres- ponding operations are not com- menced in the three months fol- lowing the date it is obtained. VIII. To acquire of individuals, when proper, cultivable lands, either by purchase, cession or any other kind of contract, in confor- mity with the rules established for public lands, in paragraph VI. IX. To provide individiials' pro- perties, when they apply for them, with the immigrants which can be disposed of, according to contracts in vigor. X. To consider the colonies as Buch, and that, during a period of ten years, at the end of which all privileges to cease. The Executive power is equally authorized to dispose, during the present fiscal year, of a sum which may amount to $250,000 for the expenses of this law, comprising those of the committee of explor- ation." Our limited space will not allow us to enter into more explanations; those who wish for more may apply to the American Consul at Mexico, or the Mexican Consul in New York. CHAPTER III. THE HArLVTATS FKOM YEEA CHUZ TO JALAPA AJffD MEXICO. The tramway from Vera Cruz to Jalapa follows the main line to Tejeria (see page 25) where it branches off to San Juan, thus fol- lowing the primitive track (see page 23). The whole journey taking place by daylight, the rail- way company has had the good idea of running open cars, so that the travellers may enjoy the scenery. We Avill not make a minute description of it, as it would only be repeating what we have said of the main line, i. e., that it presents all the luxuriant beauties of a tropical climate. San Juan is at a distance of Oj- miles from Tejeria and 16j miles from Vera Cruz. — Before the actual track of the main line, this station was the head station, the diligences stopping there to give up their travellers to the small tramway which took them to Vera Cruz and vice versa. The train stops ten minutes. Ticrra Colorada, at 201 miles from Vera Cruz. Between this station and Paso de Ovejas, which is the next one to the right of the \ THE BAIL WAYS. 23 track, and at about two miles be- fore reaching the latter, is the vil- lage of Tolome, the site of a bloody civil war in 1828. Paso de Ovejas, at 29 miles from Vera Cruz, Puente Nadonal, at 35 miles from Vera Cruz. The name means national bridge, and was formerly called the King's bridge. It was built at the end of last cen- tury, and resembles a Roman viaduct. Rinconada, at 40f miles from Vera Cruz. Here the up and down trains meet and the travellers of both can enjoy a wash and join at the breakfast table, for there is one hour allowed for both. Plan de Bio, at 48 1- miles from Vera Cruz, is. known in tlie annals of Mexican history as the spot where a great battle was fought, and which caused the overthrow of Iturbide. Cerro Gordo, at 55 miles from Vera Cruz. On this spot was gain- ed an important battle by the American army in 1847. Bos Rios, at 62 miles from Vera Cruz and 8| miles from Jalapa. Jalapa, according to Humboldt, is 4,296 feet above the level of Vera Cruz, and at a distance of 70-J miles ; the average temperature being 22° centigrade. The number of inhabitants averages 10,900. The town is built on a hill, from the summit of which tourists may admire a splendid view of the environs, reputed for their flowers, to which the women of Jalapa are compared in the following line : '■'•Bellas coma su cielo, lindas como sus Jioresy As handsome as its sky, as pretty as its flowers. As the eye follows the horizon, it meets with the imposing Cofre of Perote and Peak of Orizaba. The town gave birth to Santa Anna, and the two brothers, Miguel and Sebastian Lerdo de Tejada. There are no monuments of note ; therefore, tourists take very little interest in the town. The first concession for the con- struction of the railway from Vera Cruz to Mexico, was given on the 22d August, 1837, to Francisco Arrilaga, of Vera Cruz. His pro- ject left aside Jalapa, Cordova, Orizaba, and branched off toPuebla. As M. Arrilaga did not comply with the conditions of the conces- sion, it was cancelled. On the 31st May, 1842, the Pres- ident of the Republic, Santa-Anna, issued a decree re-establishing the tax called Amria (damage), which consisted in an additional duty of 2 ^ on the imports of the Vera Cruz custom-house, and which had formerly been put at the disposal of the consulates of Vera Cruz and Mexico for the repairs of the roads. The produce of this extra-duty was to meet the expenses of a line of railway from Vera Cruz to El Rio de Ban Juan and to the re- pairs of the highway to Perote. The execution of the railway line was given to Joseph Faure, under the direction of Antonio Garay,then minister of finance ; but M. Faure 24 THE RAILWAYS. died from tlie effects of a fall from Ms horse, wliile inspecting the line. His death put a stop to the progress of tlie track, that did not extend over more than three miles ; and it was not until Sep- tember, 1851, that it was complet- ed to San Juan. Six years later, 12th August, 1857, Messrs. Masso obtained the exckisive right to build a railroad from San Juan to Acai)ulco, on the Pacific. The work was begun at once from Mexico to Guadalupe Hidalgo, under the management of R. G. Gorsuch, an American engi- neer. The owners sold that piece of road to Antonio Escandon for $2,000,000, in the year 1857, and on the following 31st August, M. Escandon was declared the conces- sionist of a new line from Vera Cruz to the Pacific, all other con- cessions being cancelled. He also bought of the government the line from Vera Cruz to San Juan for $750,000. The survey of the line to the capital began at the end of 1857, under the direction of Colonel Tal- cott, assisted by Messrs. Every, Lyons and Winner. The latter followed the national highway by Orizaba, whilst M. Almazan, a Mexican engineer, surveyed the route by Jalapa. The first line was finally adopted, not only on account of the large cities and rich lands it traversed; but because there were less works of art to ex- ecute, and less difficuties to con- tend with. The revolution, which had its precursor in the holy week of 1857 (see page 52), broke out at the end of the year, and stopped the works once more ; they had then arrived at Tejeria, nine and a half miles from the coast. But in 1861, M. Escandon obtained the renewal of his concession, with the obligation to build a branch-line to Puebla. A subvention was voted in favor of the concessionist. So as to provide for this subvention, the government created a consolidat- ed fund of eight million dollars, bearing interest at the rate of five per cent, per annum, the capital to be reimbursed in twenty-five years. In 1864, M. Escandon ceded his right to the Imperial Mexican Company, which cession was approved of by the emperor Maximilian, on the 26th January, 1865. The entire line was to be completed by the 30th April, 1869, and the works were resumed at once, and at both ends, at Teje- ria and Mexico. So that when, after the death of Maximilian, the Eepublican Government, presided by Benito Juarez, took possession of the country, the line was ready as far as Paso del Macho (forty- seven and a quarter miles from Vera Cruz), and Apizaco (Puebla junc- tion), eighty-six and a half miles from Mexico ; besides, part of the track was prepared on the rest of of the line. But another impedi- ment was throAvn in the road by the government itself, that deprived the company of its concession (27th November, 1867), "because the company had contracted with a government which the French intervention had the pretention to e:=itablish in Mexico." The con- cession was once more confirmed TEE BAIL WAYS. 25 by the Congress of tlie Republic on the lOtb November, 1868. The works were commenced again under the able direction of Messrs. Buchanan, William Foot, Murray, Hill, Pringley, etc., English en- gineers, and Messrs. BrannifF, Winner, etc. , contractors. A few Mexican engineers also took part in the works. Messrs. Gonzales Cosio, Balnes, Besares, etc. The branch line from Apizaco to Puebla was inaugurated on the 16th of September, 1869. The section of the main line from Vera Cruz to Atoyac, fifty-three and a half miles, was opened to the pub- lic in 1870, and from there to For- tin, seventeen and a quarter miles further on, in December, 1871. Orizaba, at eighty-two miles from the coast, was attained in Septem- ber, 1872, and the two trunks were finally linked together in Decem- ber following. The solemn in- auguration of the whole line took place on the first of January, 1873, in the presence of the President of the Eepublic, Lerdo de Tejada, and is now in good working order, under the name of " La Compania del Ferroca/rril Mexicana (limited"). Never did a line of railway meet with so many dilSiculties, nor re- quire so long a time and so much money. The number of years, we can count ; we also know under how many rulers it passed (forty presidencies and one empire), we might say "suffered;" but how many lives and dollars did it cost ? Quien sabe / We are told that up to the 30th of June, 1874, it had cost the government alone, twelve million five hundred and seventy- three thousand six hundred and ninety-five dollars ! . . . . Before the opening of the Mexi- co-Vera Cruz lines, two highways were followed : one through Cor- dova, Orizaba, and Puebla ; and the other via Jalapa, Perote, and Puebla. On the 23d of May, 1868, a concession was given to M. Ramon Zangronis for a tram-railway from Vera Cruz to Puebla via Jalapa and Perote, crossing the main line at Nopalucan. The section from Vera Cruz to Perote to be drawn by animal traction, and thence to Puebla by steam. The line to Jalapa was put into circulation on the 17th of June, 1875. The subvention granted by the government is five thousand dollars per kilometer, payable as the line advances. This sum is a mere loan, bearing interest at the rate of six per cent, per annum, and is to be reimbursed to the government, by a levy of ten per cent, on the gross receipts of the first year, and fifteen per cent, afterwards. This line is now the property of the " Ferrocarril Mexicana Com- paiiia." On leaving the station of Vera Cruz, the line cuts through the fortifications of the city ; crosses the boulevard Santiago ; passes in sight of La Alameda (the Vera- Cruzian promenade) ; of the gazo- meter, the cemetery of Casa Jfata, then across the laguna of Cocas, near to the spot where the Vera Cruzian defenders gave up their arms to General Scott in 1847, and then passes not far from the la- 26 THE RAILWAYS. guna of Boticario; the junction that leads to Medellin being at La Lamorana. Finally, the main line forms a sharp curve, and then runs in a straight direction to : Tejerin, at nine and a half miles from and one hundred and six feet higher than Vera Cruz. — It was in a house of this village, to the right of the railway track, that in 1861, the Mexican general Dobla- do received Sir Charles Wyke and General Prim, to celebrate the treaty which had been signed at La Soledad. Not far from there, in Casa Mata (Mata's house). Gen- eral SantaAnna proclaimed the sec- ond Mexican Republic (2d Febru- ary, 1823), and near by, a bloody bat tie took place, previous to the tak- ing of Tampico by General Ceval- los. Between the station of Tejeria and that of Soledad there is no other village but that of Purga, which takes its name from the medicinal plant jalap, which grows in its vicinity. Jalapa has the same origin. Soledad is a village of two hun- dred and twenty-one inhabitants, and, as the reader will remember, it gave its name to the treaty signed between Generals Doblado and Prim. Near by, is the longest bridge of the whole. line, erected on the same spot where stood the old highway bridge. It is sup- ported by pillars, under four of which runs a river. Its waters are shallow in winter, but torrential in the rainy season. Cameron station comes next, (thirteen and one-quarter miles from Soledad). — The only interest- ing part of the village are the ruins of a house burnt in April, 1864, by the Mexican army, and in which. several French chiefs and officials lost their lives. Eight miles fur- ther on, and forty-seven and one- quarter miles from Vera Cruz, is Paso del MacJio, which was a cen- tral point for the railway employes - during the construction of the line, i. e., from 1865 to 1870; it contains one thousand four hundred inhabi- tants. Its altitude is one thous- and live hundred and sixty feet. After having left behind him, not without a certain satisfaction, the movable mounds of sand of the coast, continually destroyed and reformed elsewhere by the nor- thers, the traveller has witnessed a gradual change in the aspect of the country, and he looks forward whence comes a softer breeze, and breathes freely its aromatical odors. At the height of Soledad, beds of chalk are to be found al- ternatively superposed with simi- lar sands and gravels to those of the coast, and on the other side of Paso del Macho, towards Cordova, conglomerations of white calca- reous soil predominate; whereas, near to the latter city, vapors are frequent. At three miles from the station of Paso del Macho, the train runs over the bridge of San Ale jo, three hundred and eighteen feet long and thirty-six feet above a ravine. It is entirely built of cast and wrought irons. The vegetation be- low is so high and thick, that the bridge seems as if it also sprung from out of the earth ; for, we are here in the presence of the won- ders of nature and the progress of THE BAIL WAYS. 27 science. From tliis bridge, under whicli rushes the river San Ale jo, one can witness, at the same time, all the treasures of a tropical climate and the works of man. Thenceforth, on each side of the line, sugar-cane and coffee plan- tations succeed to virgin forests, lighted up by innumerable fire- flies, and in the midst of which one's eye is attracted from the creepers entangled amongst the shrubs at one's feet, to the numer- ous parasites which invade the trees above one's head. The scene is animated by a variety of birds of brilliant plumage, flying from branch to branch, and the echo repeats their joyful songs. The parasites merit the special attention of tourists, as well as of I botanists and horticulturists; they ! are of the orchid and bromelia j specie and of an infinite variety, from the thick drooping green leaf • and multicolored flowers, to the upright red bromelia. The most complete collection of them that exists, is at the Jardin des Plantes de San Francisco, calle de San Juan de Latran at Mexico. The former director, Mr. Tonel, and his successor, Mr. J. B. Van Gool, have also made a specialty of the culture of agaves and cactuses, from the common maguey, that produces the pulque, to its most recent novelties. An hour spent in this garden is not lost. At a mile and *a half from the bridge of San Alejo stands Mount Chiquihuite, through the basis of which runs a tunnel of two hun- dred feet long, Iridge. — Then, to his left, the traveller may 'admire a deep and picturesque precipice, down which, from rock to rock, falls in pulverized spray the sil- very stream of a murmuring cas- cade, over which is thrown the bridge of Chiquihuite, two hun- dred and twenty feet long. The richness and variety of the scenery is such, that the tourist does not perceive that he leaves the road rapidly behind him, and that he is now going up a moun- tain, then down a slope, as can be seen by the difference of the levels; for, on arriving at the station of Atoyac, the height is only one thousand five hundred and thir- teen feet, i. e., forty -seven feet lower than at the previous sta- tions. Atoyac is situated at fifty- three and one-half miles from Vera Cruz, a,nd at the extremity of the iron bridge of the same name, (three hundred and thirty feet long), that crosses over the river also called Atoyac, the mouth of which is at Vera Cruz (see page 18.) From this river and Mount Chiqui- huite the soil is of a calcareous nature and contains a kind of lith- ographic stone. There are no traces of fossils, which denotes that it is of the tertiary formation. Then follow the bridges of San Jos6, Rio Seco, and another of smaller importance. After Soledad begins the ascent of the mountains around which the railway takes a serpentine course with its iron girdle. Up to Atoyac the ascent was vevy fee- ble, the distance from the coast being fifty-three miles, and the al- titude only one thousand five hun- 28 TEE RAILWAYS. dred and thirteen feet ; but, from there, it became so steep that it re- quired the Fairlie engine, which, takes up a rise of four per cent, a burden of one hundred tons nett of cargo, at the rate of twenty- five miles an hour. Between Atoyac and Cordova, at sixty-five and three-quarters miles from Vera Cruz and two thousand seven hundred and thirteen feet above it, the train runs through a rich and splendid country which yields all the products of a tropi- cal climate, and especially the frijol, a small, dark brown bean, which has a peculiarly rich flavor. It is the Mexican national vegeta- ble and is also esteemed by for- eigners. It is largely exported to Havana and the neighboring is- lands. Cordova is a town of nine thous- and five hundred inhabitants, sit- uated in a small valley. — Its origin goes as far back as 1618. In 1609, an attempt at establishing the town was made ; but a revolt of the slaves, under Yanga, was an impediment. The project was to build a station to protect carriers on their way from Vera Cruz to the interior. When Viceroy Diego Fernandez de Cordova, Marquis of Guadalcazar, came into power he took up the matter again, and on the 18th April, 1618, he gave authorization to thirty colon- ists of Huatusco to establish the station. The spot chosen was a small hill, then known as Gui- lango or Huitango, and situated, as the tourist will remark, in a most eligible situation. The high- way travellers and the neighbors who gathered around soon gave importance to the rising village. The first occupants lived on the product of the wild fruit-trees ; the banana was their bread ; the banana and nopal gave them fruit ; maguey furnished them with pulque, and its fibre served to weave their garments. Then they cultivated oranges and other fruits which they sold at Orizaba and Vera Cruz, and finally they grew sugar-cane and built factories. In 1757, there were already thirty- two sugar-mills, and in 1759, as many as twenty-two haciendas (farms), all situated around the town, and which, according to M. Segura, produced one thousand three hundred tons of sugar a year. Then sprung up distilleries of aguadiente (alcohol). In 1863, the number of haciendas was thirty- one, and the rancheros twenty- four (smaller farms). Foreign plants were also cultivated, for we find that tobacco was grown at Cordova as early as 1756. The coffee tree and the Manilla mango, (a fruit), were imported into this region by the Spaniard, Juan Antonio Gomez. In 1825, there were already seventy-five thous- and feet of coffee, and one year later the number was five hundred and twenty-three thousand four hundred and fifty. Quina has also been introduced to the environs of Cordova. This thriving centre was in full prosperity, and was rapidly increasing in riches and civilization, when Hidalgo raised his cry of independence. Its position, which had been so favor- able to its development, was the THE RAILWAYS. 29 cause of its ruin. Alternatively occcupied by tlie royalists and the independents, by the sanguinary Hevia and the wild Iturbide, it was finally choosen for the rendez- vous of the chiefs of the two par- ties, to sign the treaty by which Spain recognized the Indej)endence of the Mexicans, Since 1812, the date of the first emancipation of slaves on the Mex- ican territory, the natives, who are naturally indolent and indifferent, partly abandoned the fields and factories ; it was then that immi- gration was so much wanted ; but as it did not come in sufficient quantities, Cordova, once so opu- lent, is now forsaken ; the land is overrun with weeds, and the mills are in ruins ! The city itself is two miles from the railway station, with which it communicates by a tramway at every train. There are no monu- ments worthy of notice, but it is placed in a charming and advan- tageous situation, being surrounded by mountains, and near to Rio Seco (Dry river), the waters of which have an average temperature of 68° Fahrenheit. As it is only at a moder- ate altitude, and not far from the sea, it enjoys, at the same time, the daily tropical heat and the evening sea breeze. The vomito negro is seldom engendered there, so that all these advantages attract to Cordova each year, a great num- ber of Vera Cruzians. Five miles further on the line, is the station of Fortin, which received its name from a fort or tower, now in ruins. The soil of the mountains around Orizaba and Fortin is of a grey black calcareous kind ; it also extends as far as the cofre of Perote, and is of the cretacean formation. On leaving Fortin, the traveller needs to give a hasty glance at the immense horizon which extends to the base of the Peak of Orizaba; for, shortly afterwards, the railway track turns sharply to the right, and the train slides over a bridge under which rushes a torrent at the depth of ninety-two feet, embedded between the declivities of the mountains, covered with virgin and evergreen vegetation ; and after having thrown a rapid look to the right, on the mountains above, let the tourist cast an eye of admiration at the sight below his feet to the left. There, is the barranca of Met- lac (Metlac Ravine), in all its horror and splendor. . . .The spec- tator's attention will be drawn so rapidly from one marvel to another, that it is only when he is under the first of the five tunnels which succeed one another at a short dis- ta,nce, that he reflects on the dar- ing of an enterprise such as the ascent by steam of the Cumbres. Before coming to the ravine of Metlac itself, there are two small bridges of little importance; there- fore, let the traveller direct all his attention towards the main viaduct, and look ahead so as to enjoy the view of it, as it forms a curve of 325 feet radius over the river. He will see also the serpent-like train, the head of which, the Fair lie engine, moves along easily, although the ascent up the hill 30 TEE RAILWAYS. El puente de Metlac (Metlac Bridge), measures 350 feet Id length, and is built of cast and wrought iron. It came from the ■works of Crumleie (England).. It rests on eight pillars, also of iron, which are borne on basis of mason- ry. So as to prevent the train from running off the track at the curve, the rails are of pure steel ; and at every seven feet distance is an iron brace to keep the rails in their places ; besides, there is a third one called guard rail. The barranca of Metlac begins at the foot of the Peak of Orizaba, it being formed by the waters which filtrate from its heights. After many windings, it first disappears near Mount Cacalote, and finally at the base of Mount Chiquihuite. Its narrowest part measures 900 feet, and its greatest depth is 375 feet. Its borders may be compared, for their steepness, to those of iS^iagara, near the Falls. At three miles from the barranca is Mount Sumidero, into the interior of which the river Sonso disappears momentarily, but reappears further on. A short while afterwards, the valley of Orizaba is in sight. It presents to the eye the appearance of an immense luxurious garden, in the middle of which, the town detaches itself with its flat roofed and white houses and haciendas, intersected now and then with domes and steeples, looking like thimbles and needles compared to the Peak, which stands 17,375 feet above the level of the sea ; and the everlasting snowy head of • which pierces the first range of clouds, and glitters above them. enlightened by the rays of the rising sun ; for, at the hour the train reaches Orizaba, when there is not a norther on the coast, the fiery orb has power enough to gradually dissolve the vapors of the night, and unveil, to the eyes of the . amazed admirer a uniform, blue sky. Orizaba is at eighty-two miles from Vera Cruz, and in the State of the same name. Its population averages 12,500 inhabitants. Its original Astec name was Ahauializa- pan (Joy in the water), which passed through the following modi- fications before it became Orizaba: Aulkava, JJllkava, OUza'ca. At first, it was a village founded by the Tecliichimeca tribe, and was conquered by Montezuma I., in 1457 ; but it was only elevated to the dignity of a town in 1774. Three rivers run near the city, viz : the Ojo de Ingerdo, containing al- caline, slightly sulphureous : the Rio Blanco, also impregnated with alcaline and large quantities of carbonate of lime ; and the Rio de Orizava, a little salt in dry weather, but full of vegetable detritus. During the rainy season, its water creates dysentry, fevers, &c. There is a large spinning and tissue mill, as well as a paper factory, and three flour mills. Argileous, calcareous, and flint stones are to be found in quantities all around the city. Its climate is rather humid, though healthy ; the easterly wind being the predominating one. The plateau on which it stands is 4,027 feet higher than the level of the sea, and the average temperature is 72° Fahrenheit. It was the first city to which the THE RAILWAYS. 31 conquerors made haste, with the hopes of finding the accumulated riches of which the natives gave such a glowing account. In 1521, the Astec chiefs, CuatlocMlan and JEoateclico, plotted the murder of the Spaniards left at Orizaba by Hemand Cortes ; but Gonzalo de Sandoval arrived in time to save them without shedding blood. The first church was built by the monks of San Francisco themselves, with the help of the Indians ; it was situated on the spot where stands actually the church del Cahario (of the Calvary). During the fight for the Mexican independ- ence, Orizaba was besieged several times by Morelos. In 1862, the French armies took up their quarter-general within its walls ; and the unhappy emperor Maxim- ilian often made it his residence. In the environs, there are several water falls: — the Barrio Numo, Mincon Orande, Puente Santa Anna and Tus'pango, the rivers of which give hydraulic power to the mills. In the direction of the western part of the city is Mount Borrego, known in the annals of the French invasion, as the point where the Mexican army, 5,000 strong, was routed by 100 zouaves in the middle of the night. Orizaba con- tains twelve churches ; but their architecture is like that of all the churches erected by the Spaniards, and they only vary in- side by the variety of their adorned altars, paintings, and relics, more or less authentic. Hotels: de las Biligencias, $2 a day, including room, board, service, and light — de San Pedro, $1, for the same items ; de Las Cuatro Nadones, and del Ferro-carril. The rolling stock of the Kailway company is built and repaired at Orizaba — After passing the small station of Encinal the next one we then look forward to is that of Maltrata, at 94)^ miles from Vera Cruz and 5,550 feet above it. Although it only contains 2,000 inhabitants, this borough has more importance than that of Ingenio, which is as fully inhabited. The tourist will be able to compare them, for the train passes through the lattei at 4)4 miles from Orizaba. Up to Ingenio the scenery and vegetation continue the same as from Paso del Macho : luxuriant plains, mounts and valleys ; odoriferous plants and savorous fruits ; bright feath- ered and cheerful birds ; but at a few miles from there the aspect gradually changes and you see the natives by your side wrap them- selves up in their zarapes and rebozos, make a rapid sign of the cross, and murmur the dreaded name of El Infernillo (the little hell) ; for such is the name of a deep precipice between two moun- tains. All traces of vegetation has disappeared, not a tree, nay, not even a shrub, to be seen, and still less any living being. A scanty stream disappears from rock to rock into its depths and mur- murs in a hollow tone, as though it protested against its fate which condemns it to fall in scattered spray into the dark abyss ; for the light of the sun never pene- trates into its recesses. The pass- I age of the train detaches small I stones from the barren rock 32 THE RAILWAYS. around ; they roll into tlie Inf er- nillo, and the echo alone would tell us, after "we are gone by, that they had reached the sombre bottom, were not the noise drowned by the rattling of the train. The traveller, like the Dant and Telemachus, son of Ulyssus, when they came from the dark do- minion of Pluto, after having sought, the one for his beloved Laura, the other for his father, breathes with ease and satisfaction on leaving behind him the deso- late Infernillo, where the traces of so many eruptions are seen at every step ; for he now comes to life again as he penetrates into the valley of La Joya (the Jewel) and it well merits its name as " the little hell " is worthy of its title, MaUrata is placed in the middle of that sweet little valley. Nothing is more refreshing to the sight, nor more satisfactory to the mind, than to contemplate the view now before us, and the passage of the Infernillo appears to us as a horri- ble nightmare ! On the right side of the cars stands a mountain covered with moss and grass, spotted with bright wild flowers and crowned with a forest of secular trees. To the left, the valley extends itself to the horizon, similar to an ever- green carpet, through which runs, lilce a riband, a silvery rivulet on a golden bed of sand. Whilst the sxjectator is admiring the beauties, of which our feeble pen can only give a slight idea, the train arrives at the station. There, as at all the other depots of La Tierra Caliente, the natives bore you with the parasitical orchids, bananas, pine- apples, oranges, etc., but as a com- pensation, under an open shed, one may indulge in a cup of coffee, grown in the neighborhood ; and if it be not good, it is because it is not well roasted nor properly steeped. Still what a difference when we compare Mexican coffee to that of Moka, Massaoua, Suez, Cairo, Alexandria, etc. As in many other cases, the French invasion has changed the Mexi- can desayuno (breakfast). Only ten years ago, when the diligence stopped at a Fonda (inn), the only beverage offered to you was cho- colate ; now, it cannot be ob- tained at any price. But let not the tourist, who is come to see and not to eat delicacies, lament over their deficiency ; but let him lift his eyes towards the mountain up which he is about to. ascend. The railway track is only visible now and then as it winds round the steep declivities, amidst the va- pors of the clouds which bathe the crest of the Cumbres. Now and then the opening of a tunnel ap- pears like a black spot. But be- fore the locomotive attains that height, it will have to run over 13 I miles of rail, now placed on arti- I ficial plateaus, supported by masonry, then plunged into the ! bowels of the mountain, and then again, suspended on an iron-bridge of more than 300 feet long and thrown over ravines and preci- j pices. I But the engine cannot accom- plish its journey without taking in water at La Tangue (the tank), near to the station of La Bota, (the THE RAILWAYS. 33 Boot); a small station in the moun- tain at three miles from Maltrata. The name of "La Bota" was given to the station on account of a spot in the mountain which as- sumes the shape of Victor Eman- uel's kingdom. La Toma del agua (water-giver), is a source that gives water to the tank of La Bota ; it was struck upon by the laborers whilst cutting through the rocky mountain, and it was, as M'Quin calls it, in his witty and pictur- esque Irish language, "as valu- able to the railway company as if it were a gold mine." If we refer to the Jewsh tradition, it was thus that Moses brought forth from a rock, the water that quenched the parching thirst of the people of Israel, But there must be some error as to the site ; for Moses' fountain, now shown to tourists, is in the middle of the desert and there is no rock. If this really is the spot, the only ad- missible theory is that he caused an artesian well to be sunk, the source being surrounded at a dis- tance by lofty mountains. More surprises are still in store even for the most insatiable tourist. When he sees the na- tives mutter something between their lips, he may be sure that he is not far from the Winner Bridge, at three miles from Boca del Monte ; it measures 96 feet in length, but very narrow, and was called after an engineer who lived near by. It is fully 3,600 feet above the valley which we have left 80 minutes before. It is sup- ported by four iron spider-web looking columns, resting on piles I of masonry. From this bridge and at several other parts of the circu- lar ascent, when there are no clouds below, one can enjoy the view of the valley of Maltrata, which presents the appearance of a draught board, with its fields of uniform square and varied colors, its flat top buildings, representing the draughts and its steeple imi- tating the queen ; but all so small that they look like a bouquet of lilies in a garden. Soon after, the road passes through the mountain, and when it comes out of the tun- nel, it runs for half a mile in a cut, 200 feet long, at the end of which the tourist comes in sight of the station of : Boca del Monte. — ^Here the trav- eller, at the sight of a copious dejeuner a la fourcJiette, forgets his recent emotions and the cool- ness of those lofty regions to satis- fy a craving hunger, and he does not find the price of seventy-five cents too dear. Before now, he has acknowl- edged in petto that our advice to provide an overcoat to protect him from the dampness of the condens- ing clouds and the fresh breeze of the mountains was wise, for Boca del Monte stands at an altitude of 7,922 feet above Vera Cruz, from which there is a distance of 107^ miles ; the same garment will henceforth be useful against the dust, Avhich is very compact in dry weather. As the remainder of the track to Mexico does not present any serious ascent, the Fairlie engine is here replaced by an ordinary one. San Andres ChalcUcomula (126 miles from Vera Cruz). — This vil- 34 THE RAILWAYS. lage is about four miles from the railway station, but tbere is a diligence which meets every train ; the municipality of the village is studying the project of constructing a tramway. San Andres is situated at the foot of the Peak of Orizaba, which partly belongs to M. Rosains, of San An- dres, who extracts ice from its summit and to whom applications must be made to make its ascent. The population of San Andres Chalchicomula averages 4,000. It is cited in the history of Mexico under the name of XalcMcomulco. A powder explosion that took place on the 6th March, 1862, killed 1,025 Mexican soldiers and 14 offi- cers, and wounded 205 others, all were buried on the spot. It was there also, and on the 23d March, 1862, that Manuel Robles Pezuela was shot for having joined the army of the intervention. La Rinconada, at 139 miles from the coast — is known in the history of modern Mexico, be- cause Juan N. Rosains made, in 1811, his declaration in favor of Independence in the haci- enda of Rinconada, which can be seen from the cars. The said chief was executed ultimately at Pueb- la, under Anastasio Bustamente. There is also a service of diligence for San Andres. On leaving San An- dres, the reader has to his left a cliain of mountains, kno^^Tl as the Sierra de Chiconquita, at 30 miles behind which in a straight line lies Puebla ; at 44 miles further on stands Popocatepetl, and at a right angle towards the north, at 18 miles distant,is Lctacihuatl {the woman in white). The altitude here is only 7,732, therefore we have been com- ing down the hill from Boca del Monte; but henceforth we shall al- ternatively ascend and descend un- til we reach Mexico. Eleven and one-fourth miles more and we come to the station of : San Marcos at 113 miles from Mexico, — and near to Nopalacan, a small village situated at the junction of the highway that leads from Puebla to Jalapa, via Perote, as well as of the con- ceded line of railway from Vera Cruz to Puebla, via Jalapa and Perote (see page 25). Between this station and the next the traveller has a full view of Mount Malinche {Malitzin), the name of which was given to Cortes by the Astecs. Sev- eral legends are attached to the name and mountain. According to one of them the ghost of the royal daughter of a king, named Malitzin, haunts the lake of Cha- pultepec (see page 89) at daybreak; she also makes her appearance at a source near to the convent of Atzcapozalco (oh, happy monks) ! But the legend does not say if she attends the two places at the same time. The other legend is still more marvelous and tragic : A long time ago, (all old tales be- gin so,) the mountains of Malinche, PopocaUcpctl and Ixtacihuatl, were no more nor less than animated monsters, having the use of their limbs and tongues, of which they made an immoderate use, as we shall see hereafter. Ixtacihuatl, (the white lady), was the wife of Popocatepetl, and a very unhappy one too. Her husband was always THE RAILWAYS. 35 smoking, tlience Ms name, and Ix- tacihautl, wlio was very nervous, could not bear the smell of sul- phur, which is quite natural, for we know ladies who cannot even support the smell of tobacco, much less of sulphur. The unlucky spouse, in her sorrow, threw an eye of despair on the brilliant and ele- gant Malinche, the star of Ameri- ca, for she was smitten by his brightness. He was born on a rich soil and was of noble extraction, and she hoped that for love of her, he would deposit at her feet the treasures of his fairy land, thus charming the loneliness of her bar- ren regions. The star was not in- sensible to the unhappy fate of the White Lady, and he pitied her from the bottom of his heart. Now, from pity to love there is but one step, at least, so say people who have experience in the matter. Ixtacihuatl was happy while lis- tening to the sweet harmony of the zephyr which caressed her cheeks, and which was impregnated with the odoriferous perfumes of the rich vegetation of her lover's land ; and they would pass days after days (read ages after ages), ex- changing under the blue sky of the tropics the sweet word " love." But lo ! one day, the old smoker surprised them in the midst of their ecstasy ; and as he did not quite approve of the nature of their conversation, he slew both his consort and her paramour, car les maris ne font pas toujours Hre. But pursued by remorse and his unex- tinguished passion for the departed wife, he regretted that he had not limited his vengeance to the Egyp- tian custom, imported into Anu- huac, and which consisted in cut- ting off the noses of unfaithful wives ; but it was now too late, and in his despair he gave up his soul to the Gods, who changed the mor- tal remains of the three monsters into mountains, so that they might serve, then and forever, as an ex- ample to unfaithful wives. It ap- pears, that from that "day to this, there is not one in the country from whence the White Lady can be seen. From that day also the pygmies of Anuhuac rejoiced in contemplating, wrapped in their white winding sheets, the gigantic Oog and Magog, whose simple mur- murs did no longer shake mounds and vales ! By the time the reader has ad- mired Malinche and wandered in the supernatural world, the train arrives at Huamantla, 102^ miles from Mexico. — Its name is mentioned in the history of the Indepen- dence, together with that of Sesma, one of its heroes ; and also in the war against the Amer- ican invaders. The name of President Juarez has been added to its original one, for it has been recently called Huamantla Juarez. Geologists will find there fine specimens of marble, which has a great resemblance to the soap stone of California ; but more so to the Algerian onyx. On the line between Huamantla and the next station there are sev- eral iron bridges thrown over the torrents and waterfalls, produced by the drainings of Malinche. (The Astecs pretend that they are the 36 THE RAILWAYS. tears slied by the dangliter of Mal- inche !) Apizaco, at eiglity-six and one- lialf miles from Mexico. — TMsis the junction of the branch line to Puebla, and from that fact the vil- lage took birth. There is a good restaurant, where an excellent meal is served for seventy-five cents at the arrivals of the uj) and down trains ; English, French, German and Spanish spoken. The altitude here is 7,910 feet ; but at the hacienda of Acocotla, which we passed on the road, we were as high as 8,310 feet, the culminant point of the line, Guadalupe (hacienda), is at a distance of seventy-seven miles from the capital. Soltepec, seven and one-half miles further on, and 8,224 feet above the level of the sea. — Hence the track goes down a gentle slope to the capital. Apam, at fifty-seven and one- half miles from Mexico. — This borough is the central point for the sale of pimienta, especially of the quesadilla and chalupa kinds, which are the basis of all Mexican cooking. In the plains of Apam there are many haciendas, amongst which is that of San Diego Notario, where the Mexican Gen- eral, Porfirio Diaz, gained a victory over Leonardo Marquez, in April, 1867, during the conflict between Maximilian and Juarez, Irolo, at forty-seven and three- quarters miles from Mexico — is the central market for the sale of pulque, the stations of Soltepec, Apam, Ometvisco and La Palma being the most important deposits. I This beverage is extracted from the plant called maguey (aloes), which the traveller has seen so many of since the train left Boca del Monte, and which cover the plains to the gates of the capi- tal, and even the whole valley. This plant is the manna of the na- tives. It gives them fruit, liquid, paper, yarn and needles. When the plant arrives at maturity (ten years old), it measures as many as eighty-five feet in circumference. An incision is made at the foot of it, generally in the centre ; the heart is cut out to form a reser- voir, into which the juice of the leaves collects. This juice is as- pired by the breath into a long dried pumpkin, called Acocotl, (water throat) and then emptied into a sheep's skin. In this state it is called TlacMque (mild pulque). It is taken to the hacienda, poured on a cow's hide, stretched on a frame, the hair being inside, and left there to ferment ; after which, it is put again into sheep's skins and shipped. The pulque of temperate regions is far superior to that of the hot climates. This process was first put into use by a maiden, the handsome Xochitl, who was married to Tepalcaltzin, a Tolteca king on the 26th April, 1045. Pulque is the national drink, as wine is that of the east and south of France, and cider of its western region. The natives cut a leaf of each plant into the shape of a cross, so that it may live long and yield much. Ometusco, at forty-two miles from the capital, is the station THE RAILWAYS. 37 ■where travellers aliglit to take the diligences to the mining county of Hidalgo via Pachuca, Tulancingo, etc. La Palma comes next, hut is of little importance. Otumba lies at thirty-four and one-fourth miles from Mexico ; it is a small town of 4,584 inhabi- tants. In 1520, a handful of the conquerors, seconded by the Tlascala Republicans, faced the Mexican army in the mountains which surround the city. For seven days they fought in sight of the pyramids of Teotihuacan ; but the temerity and valor of the former triumphed over the patriotism and fanaticism of the latter; 278 years later (1798), at the feet of other pyramids, which served as models to tLose of Teotihuacan, another celebrated invader addressed his soldiers thus: "Buhaut de ces pyramides quarante sildes vous contemplent ! " 8an Juan Teotihuacan, at twen- ty-seven and one-fourth miles from the capital, i. e. , at one and a half hour's ride by the train, is the station where visitors take the diligence to visit the pyramids of Teotihuacan (see page 108-,) Tepexpan, at twenty and one- fourtli miles from Mexico, is the last station but one before reach- ing the capital. At each train there is in attendance a convey- ance for Texcoco, a city situated on the eastern side of the lake of the same name, and on the western borders of which stands Mexico City itself. After having followed the borders of the above lake for several miles, the traveller per- ceives Guadalupe Hidalgo on the other side of the track, i. e'., to his right. As this town, by its historical facts and religious im- portance, merits a special visit, we have classed it in the chapter of "Villages." (Seepage 89.) ArHval. — Now, let the traveller strap up his rug and rehearse the words he has learned, by that time the train will be in the sta- tion. Those who have taken through tickets will be met at the station by the agency's correspond- ent, and everything will be provid- ed for them, conveyance and apartments ; but those qui ne sont pas aussi fawrises, must take a carriage, for the cars which meet the train stop on the grand square. After having been jolt- ed about on the uneven pavement of the city they will arrive at the hotel, which they have chosen out of our list (page 71.) The fare of the carriage, for any drive, is two reales or twenty -five cents and double that amount for one hour or part of an hour. It is cus- tomary to give the driver a grati- fication, but not obligatory. (See page 51.) In Mexico, although there are restaurants under the same roof as the hotels, they do not belong to the same proprietors ; therefore, if travellers have not made prelimi- nary arrangements, on taking their tickets, they will need to make terms with each one. There is a service of horse cars from the depot to the Plaza Mayor and vice versa. It leaves the square at 5 :00 p. m. to meet the train from Vera Cruz, and at 4:30 38 MEXICO CITY. A. M. to take tlie passengers for the five o'clock train for Vera Cruz. Passengers' baggage for convey- ance in tlie passenger trains is re- ceived and booked in Buenavista station every day, from 9:00 A. M. to 12:00 M., and from 2:00 to 4 P. M. The luggage office is also open, as vrell as the ticket office, one hour before the departure of the j trains. The Express Mexicano, Calle de Escalerina, takes charge of travellers and luggage for the station and abroad. CHAPTER IV. MEXICO CITY. It is impossible to trace out an unvariable itinerary. We have, therefore, classed every- thing worthy of tourists' at- tention in alphabetical order, leaving to cicerones and tourists themselves the choice of their daily excursions. But we strongly re- commend the following distribu- tion of the day, on account of the climate : All out-door sights, to be seen early in the morning ; lunch and siesta from 12 to 2 p. m. ; in- door visits from 2 to 5 P. m, ; drives to the paseos (promenades) from 5 to 6 : 30 p. m. As Mexico is near to the tropics, there is no twilight, so it is prudent not to remain outside the town after sun- set. The altitude of the capital, that travellers from the coast attain in a few hours, and the fa- tigue of a sea voyage and railway trip generally cause them to feel unwell the second or third day of their arrival. Violent head-aches, bilious attacks, heart-burns, and a difficulty to breathe, are mostly what hail them. (See medical ad- vice, page 15.) The capital of the United States of Mexico is situated by 19° 26' 12" 3 of latitude N., and 99° 6 45" 8 of longitude W., according to the meridian of Greenwich. The difference of time between Mexi- co and Greenwich is 6h. 36' 56". This city, which was put under the protection of St. Philip of Jesus on the twelfth of January, 1629, stands in the middle of the Valley of Mexico, which measures forty- five miles by thirty-one miles, and contains 700,000 inhabitants. Its climate is temperate, never being- over 70°, nor under 50° Farenheit, although it is in the same alti- tude as Vera Cruz"; but this com- paratively low temperature is due to two causes, viz. : its altitude being, according to Humboldt, 7,146 feet above the level of the sea ; and the vicinity of the Cor- dilleras, which encircle the val- ley, and of which two of the highest points, Popocatepetl and Ixtacihuatl, are covered with, perpetual snow. The barometer stands at twenty-two and one- half inches, and water at boil- ing point marks 190°. The long- est day is of thirteen hours and ten minutes, and the shortest, ten hours and fifty minutes. Fruits and flowers grow in profu- sion ; but the European fruits have not the savor of their orig- MEXICO CITY. 39 inal country ; neither have the flowers the vivid colors or odor which they possess in lower re- gions. The population of the city is now reduced to 180,000 inhabit- ants, from 300,000 that it num- bered in 1519. M. Garcia Cubas says 260, 000. The truth is that the truth is not known. The streets are at right angles, from north to south and east to west. Their names change at each block, which is very inconvenient. At the extremity of each line of streets, in the distance, are plain- ly seen the mountains which sur- round the valley. The income of the city averages $860,000, and its expenses $856,000. As we have already stated (page 10), Mexico stands on part of the old bed of the Lake of Texcoco, out of which it sprung, but the borders of which are now embanked at a certain distance from the capital. The actual level of its water is thirty feet lower than it was when the waters of the river Cuantitlan fell into it. The valley contains, also, the lakes of Chalco, San Christobal, Zumpango, Xaltocan and Xochimilco, the six lakes cover fifty square miles. This topogra- phical position gives the explana- tion of the Indian name of the valley, *' Anuhuac " (by the water- side). The levels of these lakes are re- duced by evaporation, but. not sufficiently to preserve the valley from inundations. The capital itself has been seven times totally covered with water : in 1446, 1553, 1580, 1604, 1607, 1617, 1620 ; and five times partially flooded, in 1629S 1630, 1748, 1819 and 1865. At the corner of Callejon de Espiritu Santo and 2d Calle de San Francisco, there is an animal's head carved out of the stone wall and gilded ; it shows the height attained by the flood in 1620. The lake of Texcoco, into which run the waters coming from the town, and brought there by the viaducts and the canal of Chalco, far from having an outlet, is also the deposit of the waters running down the rivers on its eastern side, and produced by the drain- ings of the neighboring moun- tains. The result is, that evapo- ration alone keeps down its level, but it is not, even in dry weather, sufficiently low to establish a cur- rent through the capital ; so that stagnant water is to be found at two feet under the pavement of the city ; and were it not for the rarefaction of the air, there would be permanent epidemics. This want of an outlet for the waters of Lake Texcoco is the sole cause of floods during the rainy season. The necessity of draining the Valley of Mexico was the first preoccupation of the Spaniards, when they found out the error they had committed by not re- building the capital at Tacubaya, instead of on the site of the old Tenochtitlan. They began the work of the draining on the 28th December, 1607, by making a tunnel, which fell in, in 1620. lOn the 20th Jnne, 1629, the water in the etreet ftttaiued three feet high. The flood laeted two years. 40 MEXICO CITY. The outlet being stopped, tlie cur- rent i^roduced by tlie river of Cu- autitlan and tlie waters of Lake San Cliristobal ruslied into Lake Texcoco, and flooded tlie city, •whicli remained under water sev- eral years ; after wliicb the tunnel was cleared out, and became tlie actual tn^o (cut) of Nocliistongo. The first project was to put all the lakes in communication with this canal, which was to carry their waters out of the valley, down the slope of the mountains which encircle it on its northern side. The tunnel was completed in one year, from the mountains to Hue- huetoca, a small village near to the lake of Zumpango ; thence the name of " Desaguii de Huehueto- ca " (draining of Huehuetoca), un- der which the outlet is now known. But the Spanish engineers had based their calculations on inex- act levels, Huehuetoca being at an altitude of 7; 399 feet, whereas that of the lake of Texcoco is at 7,340 only ; so that the cut only serves to carry away the waters of Lake Zumpango and the river Cuantitlan, the original course of which was derivated at the same epoch, Simon Mendez, a Mexican, suggested the idea of using the river of Tequisquiac as the outlet for the surplus of the waters of the valley. On the 15th December, 1774, J. Velasquez de Leon proposed to the municipality of Mexico to drain the valley by cutting a canal from the northern side of Lake Texcoco, passing through the bed of Lake Zum- pango, and communicating also by a tunnel to the river of Tequis- quiac. Li 1802, Castera submitted the plan of putting in communica- tion the lakes Texcoco and Zum- pango, and the latter with the cut of Nochistongo ; but he placed his canal more to the east of Lake Texcoco than that of V. de Leon, In 1858, Smith, an American en- gineer, taking uj) the ideas of Si- mon Mendez and Velasquez de Leon, made the project to bring to their tunnel the waters of Lakes Chalco and Zochimilco, by the continuation of the actual canal of Chalco, and those of Lake Texcoco, by a branch canal falling into the former one. Several en- gineers having approved of this last project, a decree was issued on the 27th April, 1866, naming a commission to examine it. Its re- port being also favorable, the works were begun in June follow- ing, and continued by the actual government with the product of the contributions voted for the desague, on the 7th May, 1832, and which produces in round numbers $300,000 a year. The desague of Huehuetoca is also kept in order by the same means. The works hitherto ex- ecuted, of Smith's project, are the sinking of the airing wells of the tunnel. Finally ap- peared, in 1875, the project of Vi- cente E. Manero. It consists, first, of cutting a canal from the river San Bernardino, which falls into the eastern side of Lake Texcoco, to that of San Cliristobal, follow- ing the curve of the former one ; thus crossing the rivers which feed it, and carrying away their waters. Second, of putting into MEXICO CITY. 41 communication the lakes of San Cliristobal and Znmpango with, tlie tajo of Nocliistongo. Tliird, of dividing tlie bed of the lake of Tescoco into longitudinal and transversal canals, to receive the .waters from the town, for which a certain current would he estab- lished ; the level of said canals to be under that of the city sewers. These canals would be wide and shallow, so as to offer the suffi- cient surface of evaporation re- quired by the altitude of the val- ley. This project is now before the government, and we trust it will at last be adopted. The soil of the valley is gener- ally detrital, and of a modern al- luvium. It contains a large pro- portion of carbonate of soda. In many parts, where volcanic lava supersedes, there is no vegetation whatever. In several other parts, mineral waters and naphtha are to be found. The earth pulverizes into a very fine dust, so that in the dry season the town is dusty, and, consequently, muddy in the rainy months of June, July, August and September, during which the rain falls {aquaceros showers) in the afternoon or night, thus flooding the streets for several hours ; because, as we said above, the current through the sewerage is unsufficient. But the mornings are bright, and it is dry under foot. As it has taken place in Europe, the climate of Mexico has undergone a change ; for we remember the time (twenty years ago) when the showers fell at the same hour every day, from one to two, p. m. ; now there is no fixed time. We call the attention of the learned to this fact. When Hernand Cortes landed at Vera Cruz and described to the natives the mighty power and glory of his master, the King of all the Spaniards, they exalted, in their turn, the grandeur and riches of Moctezuma, the Astec emperor, whose capital was " TenocMitlan the Superb; " and when the con- queror received the rich presents sent to him by Moctezuma, he con- ceived such an idea of the riches of the interior that he resolved to make his way per fas or nefas to the capi- tal. The reader can follow on the map the route he pursued through Jalapa, Socochima, Colotlan, Xala- timgo, Tlascala, Cholula, the val- ley which separates Popocatepetl from Ixtacihuatl, Ameca-Meca, the south of the lakes of Chalco and Xochimilco, Colhuacan and Ixtap- alapa. That prodigious march of a few men amongst a numerous warlike population may be attributed to different causes, viz : the genius of Cortes and the bravery of his fol- lowers; the amazement and fear of the natives at the noise and deadly effects of fire-arms and at the sight of horsemen; for they believed that man and horse were bvTt one supernatural being. ^ And finally the friendship of the Tlas- cala republicans and the protec- tion of the devoted and beloved Marina,^ who revealed to her ^ Eecent discoveries of horses' teeth in the stratas near Tlasca]a prove that that species of animal liad existed in thia country but had disappeared. 2 She finally married Juan Jaranillo. 42 MEXICO CITY. lover the conspiracy of Cholula, plotted by tlie natives to destroy all tlic; Spaniards. Cortes made his first entry into the capital of the Astecs on the 8th Nov., 1519. Moctezuma went to receive him and took him in state to his palace of Axayacatl. But the abuses of the conquerors and their thirst for gold soon caused dissatisfaction amongst the Astecs. They drove the Spaniards from the city and mortally wound- ed their own emperor, whilst he was trying to calm their furor; he died four days afterwards. It was on the night of the next day (1st July, 1520) that the Spanish chief, sinking under the despair of his defeat and the loss of so many brave companions, sat prostrate and wept under the tree known as El arlol de la noclie iriste (the tree of the sorrowful night), which is still to be seen in the village of Popotla. It is a conifer called Ahuehuete (c\^ress). An attempt was made on the 2d May, 1872, to burn it; but the flames were extinguished in time to preserve it from entire destruction. It is now surrounded by an iron balus- trade, presented by Messrs. Bar- ron, Forbes & Co., of Mexico. Cortes soon recovered from his momentary discouragement, and after having rallied companions and allies, he finally conquered the proud city on the 13th August, 1521. On the night of the 24th December previous, Cortes had com- pleted his plan of attack. In op- position to the Noche triste, that night was called La Noche Buena (The good or lucky night). The Astec capital, " the Mexican, Venice," was cut throughout with canals. The besiegers were oblig- ed to fill them up as they pro- ceeded, with the ruins of the buildings ; thus gaining ground, foot by foot, so bravely was the city defended under the J^oung hero Cuantemotzin, who was only 23 years old. After having reduc- ed the town by destroying it, the conqueror retired to Coyoaca, whilst the remaining population cleared it of the dead foes and friends, the number of which was estimated at 400,000 ! The actual Mexico then sprang up on the ruins of the once heroic Tenochtitlan,and, as we said above, the borders of the lake were thrown back to where they now stand, and on which, embankments were made to preserve the city from inunda- tions. The canal that comes from the lake of Chalco over which is thro^vn the bridge of La Lena (see page (74), is the only one that gives to tourists an idea of " The Mexican Venice." Early in the morning, did we say, is the only time to see Mexi- can out-door life, in all its pictu- resque aspects. Shops and oflBces are opened very early, for all healthy persons are in the streets: ladies, draped in their lace mantil- las, going and coming from church and shopi^ing; Hacendados and rancTicros with their broad-brim- med hats {jaranos or somhreros) ; their leather {cJiaquctas)]SiCke%^ and pants, through the outside seam of which flows a calzonera de mania (calicot pant) ; their cotona, cor- MEXICO CITT. 43 sage, and mouiited on fiery horses riclily caparisoned. Indios, Indians, tlie man carrying in open worked Jiuacals (dorsels) : live stock and fruit; the woman, her child on her back and provisions in her arms — both half -clad in blue wool- en serge. Half-bred Mexicans {leperos) hawking fruit and dulces (sweetmeats), in their dirty cotton rags and tattered zarape (local rug), or a piece of old carpet; a cigarette over their ear and a medio (6j cents), inside it. Mules and asses driven by swarthy looking wretches, half -naked but not half- fed. Muchachas or chinas, (girls), with black and green plasters on their temples {chiquiadores, a cure for head-ache), and bright colored skirts; waddling along bare-footed. Eagged and shoeless soldiers, fol- lowed by their women, wrapped up to their eyes in their rebozos (a local scarf ), to hide the filth of their skin and linen, which are of the same dirty brown. Priests glid- ing close to the walls, concealing under a long and dingy Spanish cloak the plumpness of their fig- ure; casting side-looks and appear- ing as if they were still conspir- ing; and quien sabe (who knows) but what they are ? for they cannot reconcile themselves to the loss of their temporal power in Mexico, no more than the Pope does in Rome. All that picturesque and kaleidoscopal ensemble, is so much the more striking, that it contrasts with the stiff and formal European dresses, which appear like so many spots of soot falling on a bright colored ball dress, or a flock of crows mingled with a flight of Mexican parrots and cardi- nals. The sun arrives at the meridian, and the Mexicans retire to their homes. Until three o'clock they eat, smoke and sleep; after which, they attend to their business, and the ladies pay visits and drive to the paseo (promenade) in low and light colored dresses. The evening is spent at the theatre, where ladies put as much care in their tenue, as the men neg- lect the first elements of savoir- mvre; for not only they despise the use of gloves, but they keep on their hats in the presence of the ladies, and smoke under their noses; it is true that the latter putf out now and then behind their fans a soupgon of smoke, so after all it is " puff for puff" or " piS for paff." The streets are watched at night by 683 serenos or policemen; each one puts his lantern in the middle of the street. There are 300 others on foot and 378 mounted police- men in the Federal District. In spite of our admiration for the better half of human kind, we must state, that, taking into ac- count all circonstances attenuantes, the Mexican men are in general bet- ter looking than the women (some think vice versa) ; but the women are much more refined than the men. It is true that a man requires less than a woman to set him off to ad- vantage ; and that the plumage helps to hide the irregularity of the form, but still their all is su- perior. When young, some women have a sweet face ; but it is " La e du diaUe, and roses, elles du- 44 MEXICO CITY. rent ce que durent les roses, Vespace d'un matin. As thej grow old they become very stout. But they pos- sess moral qualities far superior to those of the men. They are high- ly domesticated, good mothers, and tender wives. Moreover, they are animated with a great patri otic spirit, and are the worthy de- scendants of the matrons of Sara- goza. The men are very acute and sharp, they have immense resources of imagination, and no race of men knows, as they do, how to get out of or turn round difficulties. The Mexicans are to the Spani- ards what the Americans are to the English, i. e. , they possess the qualities and faults of their fore- fathers to excess. The Mexicans in general are mild, the lower class is even humble. Their po- liteness is extreme, their manners affable; so excessive even, that one must neYBT les prendre au mot; but merely take as a politeness the usual by- word, " my house is yours." Although they are pa- tient, they do not possess the per- severance of Europeans, nor the go-ahead of Americans. Still less have they the punctuality of both. Nothing can be decided at once, the word being replaced in their vocabulary by that of ma- finna (to-morrow). It would appear as though they all learned in their youth the following maxim : " Time is the tool which man re- ceives to execute his work, pa- tience is the handle ; " but they were certainly not taught that " Time is money." Although they put off everything to the morrow, they never provide for it ; leaving to providence or the saints, to take care of it for them. One single example will illustrate the fact : A Mexican sa- 'cant was called upon to extract the ^ mineral contained in the ore of a mine near Mexico. He constructed his furnace, left to another person the care of experimenting it, came to Mexico, and surrounded the image of the Virgin with candles, beseeching her to ordain that his apparatus be successful. With the working class, the un- foresight of the morrow goes so far, that they never save anything; they live from day to day, from hand to mouth, not caring for the future ; and if, by the Wednesday of each week, they have earned enough to find them in pulque, cigarettes, and food (and what food!) until the Monday, they will idle away the other part of the week at the pidquerias, or sit scratching the strings of a jara- nita (small guitar). The com- plexion of the Indians is of a dark brown, but the Mexicans are naturally whiter, according to their more or less distant Astec origin. Nevertheless, the climate itself gives a light cast to every one ; for Europeans themselves partake of it, when they reside a certain time in the country. Some Mexican ladies correct that imper fection by using cascariU^, a white powder made in Yucatan, of pul- verized egg and sea shells ; it re- places the poudre de riz, of which European ladies abuse so much. The hands and feet of the Mexi- cans are very small and well MEXICO CITY. 45 shaped ; tlieir teeth are fine, although they are large, and their mouths advance a little, which give them a resemblance to eng- lish ladies, of whom Queen Victo- ria is a striking specimen. Their eyes are large, black, and bright ; their hair plentiful but coarse. It is rare to see a bald-headed man in Mexico. It is supposed that they owe the preservation of their hair to the habit of washing frequently their heads with soap. Besides, the average life-time in this country is much inferior to that of Europe and United States of America, except for the Indians, who live to an advanced age. As to the demeanor of the ladies, it has something graceful and volup- tuous in its abandon. The poorer classes live in the open air. Amongst them, everything is in common: their meals, courtship, and quarrels ; their pleasures and their troubles, just like the proven- gaux of France, the Catalans of Spain, and the lazzaroni of Naples; they transact their business and family affairs in the street, and loll away in a dokefar niente, most of their time. But the richer class goes to the extreme, for their homes, as a rule, are impenetrable, not only for foreigners, but for their fellow-countrymen ; the result be- ing that there is no society in Mexico. Foreigners alone hold re- ceptions. So it is very difficult, if not impossible, for strangers to form an exact idea of Mexican so- ciety. When a Mexican is not at home, he can be found at his druggist's, his tobacconist's, or his barber's. The latter has retained part of the attributions of the Spanish Figaro ; he bleeds and ap- plies leeches. We cannot say if he fulfills the duty discharged by the apothecary in the malade imaginaire of Mollere. When a young man wishes to court a young lady, he passes and repasses under her window, on foot and on horseback, and pays organ-grinders to play under her window of an evening ; this custom is known as " hacer el oso " (to play the bear) ; he is called a nomo (bridegroom), and she a noma (bride). The diffi- culty of approaching one another has brought into use the dbanica, the language of the fan, and the ojena, that of the eyes. As a French writer says : " The two form a pair, and one alone is enough to bewilder a man." On Sunday mornings, a large number of ladauds stand in the main street, decked out in their Sunday dotlies, to see the ladies come from church. They remind one of Mrs. Tussead's gallery of wax figures. A catalogue would be useful, as there can be seen ministers, senators, deputies, gen- erals, and tutu quanti. The high commerce and industry of the whole Mexican republic are mostly carried on by foreigners, for the Mexican capitalifet is neither an industrial nor a specu- lator in business. He places his money in real estate, and mines, or lends it at a minimum in- terest of one per cent, per month. Some few send a reserve capital to Europe, to fall back upon in case of revolutions. Therefore, as 46 MEXICO CITY. Mexicans scarcely ever undertake a new business, there is a large field for foreigners, who would come to the country with a small capital ; for there are trades and industries which do not yet ex- ist, and many others only repre- sented by one or two establish- ments. Although we find fault with the Mexican government in several cases, we are bound to say that it gives all possible encour- agement and protection to indus- try, by allowing machinery to enter free of duty, and by adding an additional duty on foreign goods, when the manufacture of the same begins in the country. As a general rule, we do not ap- prove of duties ; having been a free-trader all our life, and our father having been one of the first four founders of the Anti-Corn Law Society No. 1, of Nottingham; Eichard Cobden, having belonged to the Anti-Corn Law Society No. 2, of Manchester ; but we think that in a country like Mexico, it is necessary to protect a new-born industry, gradually reducing the duties as the manufacturers ac- quire experience, until it finally disappears. But if we state that education, science and industry have advanced and are progressing in the Mexi- can Eepublic, we must add that there is less confidence in business transactions than formerly. Now- a-days, Mexicans (not merchants) do not attach any importance to letting their signature go to pro- test. What a difference when we compare it to the time (as late as 1840) when they borrowed thou- sands of dollars of each other on their simple word, which they never forfeited ! As Balzac would have said : " Ottaient des gens qui n'etaient pas assez instruits pour manquer a leurs serments." Still, we must add that time transac- tions in business are punctually met, even in absence of notes or bills. So it is in the retail trade, where mostly all is sold on time, and it is curious to ob- serve that the lower class of Mexi- cans pay very well. The retail trade, which deals vdth the natives, generally over- rates its prices, the latter having the habit of bating them ; it is not so when foreigners buy in shops ; but by the same reason that the lower class haggle for re- duced prices, they» always ask more for their goods than they in- tend to accept ; therefore, as a general rule, when strangers have to buy of hawkers or open stall dealers, they can get the goods for half the price asked for them. When describing the aspect of the streets, we mentioned the poor wretches who follow the Mexican soldiers. If, during their peregrinations, tourists hear of an encampment of troops, it would amply pay them to go out of their way to visit it. During the day the soldiers lounge in the shade, smoking or sleeping. Their wives are washing the offi- cers' linen at the neighboring brook, whilst keeping an eye on their naked, swarthy looking ur- chins, scrambling in the dust or MEXICO CITY. 47 mud, according to the season, with masterless dogs, whicli follow the troops. When night comes on, by the trembling light of a solitary candle, one can witness the men, women, children, horses and dogs, fraternally hugged up pele meU, under a shed on the straw, each one close to the other, to keep one another warm ; thus giving to fleas, (the inseparable companion of all Mexican troupier) a variety of tough and tender skins ; a re- finement of fresh and stale bever- age. Each different part of the peo- ple's dress and the horses' harness, which we have only named so far, merits a special notice ; for how- soever queer some of them may appear, they have their raison d'etre, and foreigners who live long in the country recognize the truth of the old saying : " When you are in Eome do as the Eomans do. " The wid e and thick-brimmed hat is to protect the head from the sun, which is treacherous ; for al- though it be cool in the shade, it must not be forgotten that we are under the tropics. The yellow leather dresses are calculated to equally protect the wearer from the sun, rain and evening breeze. As to the zarape, it is no more nor less than the poncho. It serves as an overcoat out of doors, and as a blanket indoors. It is the plaid of the Scotch, and of late years the plaid or shawl has virtually re- placed the zarape. The rebozo is also of Spanish origin. The man- tilla gave birth to it ; but instead of being, as in former days, made of Barcelona cushion lace, those worn by the medium class are cut out of lever machine-wrought lace, made in Nottingham, called ''Spanish blond." The rebozo of the poorer class has the shape of a scarf. It is woven in the coun- try with cotton or a mixture of worsted or silk. It is worn like the mantilla, and falls as low as the waist, and serves to carry bur- dens and even children ; but is es- pecially used to hide the uncouth, forlorn state of women's hair and linen; for under it, there is usually nothing to protect their naked bosoms but a low, dirty shift. Similar to the Arab, the Mexican is proud of his steed, to which he is often more attached than to his wife — just as the Normand is to his cow. The Mexican cavalier delights in adorning his compan- ion, and he covers it with silver and gold ; but besides the richness of its harness, different parts of the saddle are useful : for example, the round wooden pommel serves to attach the lazo (noose) when the ca'oallero has knotted the hind feet of wild horses, or the horns of cattle. It is really curious to see the lazoro pursuing the animal, as he twirls over his head, with his right hand, a rope made of maguey fibre, at the end of which is a noose. As soon as he is near enough, he casts the lazo, and so clever is he, that the loop catches the leg or the horns of the victim. The cavalier, with a sudden jerk, stops his horse, which stiffens its legs. He then twists the end 48 MEXICO CITY. of the lazo round the mushroom shaped pommel of his saddle ; the animal continues its flight and tightens the noose ; the horse re- sists the shock, and the victim is thrown violently to the ground. This system is employed to catch cattle and wild horses on the prai- ries. But another process is em- ployed to bring the latter once a year to the haciendas of their own- ers. A large space of ground is walled in, one single entrance being reserved, and also railed off in the shape of a funnel. Peones on swift horses, go out at a distance of several leagues, and on their way home they reduce the circle in which the wild horses are enclosed, until the latter find themselves in the presence of the trap, into which they rush at the sight of water and corn put in store for them. The gates are then closed upon them. The in- itials of the owner are marked with a hot iron under the hip of the colts, which are let free with the mares. As to the horses that are at age for sale, they are mounted without a saddle and let go. They bound into the space, over hedges and ditches, and it is only when they are exhausted that the rider makes them feel the bit and spurs ; they are dompted. Then comes the breaking in wdth the bridle and the Anquera, a sort of caparison applied on the haunches of the animal, cover- ing its hips and falling as low as the joints of its hind legs. It is made of thick leather, and its low- er part is hung all rourd with iron balls, like mules' bells. Its object is to steady the trot of young horses, and it is owing to that style of training, that the Mexican steeds are so agreeable to ride ; their peculiar trot is called paso (pacing), and is similar to the anjihlG of some French horses. Travellers who cannot go into the country to witness the lazoros, may see a representation of it at bull rings ; but as the latter are not allowed in the Federal district, no more than cock and dog fight- ing, they must go to Tlalnepantla, at three-fourths of an hour's ride from Mexico. It is worth seeing once, on account of the lazo throw- ers, and el Toro del Puello, (the people's bull), the horns of which are ended with wooden balls. Men and lads are allowed to go into the ring ; they have no spears, no swords, nothing but red flags. The nimble leperos provoke the bull and get out of its reach, if they can ; but if they do not, they are quit for a toss in the air, to the great joy of the spectators. Sometimes, it is true, they are picked up with a broken rib or limb. Pious people of all religions, but more so Protestants, do not like to go sight-seeing on Sundays ; but in Catholic countries, there are certain things that they cannot see or buy at on other days, such as bull fights and the Inratilla, a kind of scrap fair for stolen and second-hand goods, that are to be found in Mexico on most of the small squares and under the ar- 1 cades. There, lie scattered out on i the ground, on Sunday mornings, ; quantities of old bits, odds and MEXICO CITY. 49 ends of every description. This Sunday question reminds us of a young- Englisliman, wlio, telling his mother of the pleasures he had enjoyed at masked balls and theatres in Paris, and being severe- ly reprimanded for having attend- ed them on Sundays, very smartly observed " that in France there were no Sundays ; they were all dimanches ! " Mexicans are as fond of monte as Americans are of poker, and we can- not say which of the two games is played the most, although gamb- ling is not allowed in the Mexican Republic; but gamblers do here, as in all other countries, they play at their clubs and clandestine ta- pis verts. The gambling spirit of the Mexicans does not only show itself in the shuffling of cards, for they are equally crazy about min- ing and lotteries. How many hard earned fortunes have been sunk in mines in spite of their incalcu- lable richness, which is seldom turned to account for want of proper management and engineer- ing skill ! For example : the country abounds in rich cinnabar ore, but hitherto there is not one Mexican engineer who has built a furnace capable of extracting the metal to advantage. Some ore does not contain less than 23 and 40 per cent, of mercury, the average being 3.90 per cent. As to lotte- ries, there were as many as three a week, besides the one of $50,- 000 which was drawn every six months ; but since - July, 1875, there is only two lotteries autho- rized in favor of Railroads. The principal prizes drawn every other day, vary from $400 to $1,000, others of $10,000, and once a month $20,000, and on the 5th May and 16th Sept. of every year the first prize is $50,000. We es- teem at one thousand the number of lottery ticket-hawkers who bore you at every step. The different interesting features of Mexican life are so numerous that it would require volumes to relate them ; but although we have already gone astray from the ordinary cadre of a guide, we are tempted to describe the ceremony that takes place at the death of young children. Instead of mourn- ing over the corpse of their child- ren, the parents return thanks to the Almighty for having called to Heaven another angelito (little an- gel.) Relatives and friends as- semble around the deceased and feast. ^ Amongst the lower classes their libations even degenerate in- to orgies. The parents not only spend their scanty ready money; but they pawn their clothes and run into debt to celebrate with os- tentation, the departure of the angelito for a better world. The burial itself is most primitive. The poorer class dress the corpse in white; crown and surround it with flowers, then stretch it out on a plank. The whole is placed on the head of a cargador, who takes the remains to its last abode, alone, without being accompanied by either parents, relatives or friends. 1 In Egypt it was also usual to carry the coffin of a deceased relative around tlie feasting table. 50 MEXICO CITY. When tlie deceased belongs to the richer class, the bearer is replaced "by a small hearse, the body of which represents a cloud support- ed at each angle by an angel. It is drawn by two or four white po- nies. Adults are taken to the cem- eteries in hearses of the English and American model. We have seen the attachment of the Mexican to his horse ; we find another proof of it in the bathing establishments for men and horses. On alighting in the yard, the cava- lier gives up his steed to the bath- ers, who strip it of its bridle and saddle, and let it free in a large arena, the floor of which is covered with a deep layer of sawdust ; there, the horse rolls for a few minutes, then it is led into a large piscine, and when cleared of the sawdust, it is soaped from ear to shoe, and rinsed again. During this operation, the owner has also taken his SAvimming bath, in another reservoir. There are a certain number of piscines ; the water is warmed by the sun ; it serves the first day for men, and then for horses. Prescott tells us in his history of the Conquest of Mexico, of the feather dresses of Moctezuma and his lords, and of feather pictures. Some of that fine Avork is yet to be seen in the museum of Mexico, and a feather picture represent- ing the Virgin of Guadalupe, which is there also, proves that the As- tecs had arrived at a high degree of talent in that art. Even now, there are a few half-breed Indians, who represent birds on cards, with feathers, and cover engravings, photographs and litho - chromos with them ; but, although they are a curious specimen of the As- tec art, still they are far from per- fection. The different birds of the country are also reproduced with colored silks, and figures of all sizes may be bought. They are made of stucco, wax and rags, and represent all the types of the natives from the aguador (water- man), to the picturesque Indian woman carrying her new-born babe, wrapped in her rebozo on her back and offering fruit for sale in the half of a large calabash ; also the Indian pintos with their feather ornaments. To complete the list of curiosities which interest tour- ists, we must add the filigree jew- elry, and the porous painted pot- tery of Guadalajara ; the brightly decorated large bowls of wood, and small calabash ones, the molin- illo (chocolate stirrers), etc., etc. So as not to be imposed upon by the natives, it is prudent to buy them through an agent, Mr. Cuevas,No. 5, 2'^ Calle de Ancha. Nevertheless here are a few prices : A feather picture, from five to eight figm-es $8 00 A feather photograph of Mocteznma 4 00 Feather birds on cards, per dozen. from $1 00 to 2 00 Silk birds 1 00 Wax and rag figures, each.. 2 00 Small plaster figures, accord- ing to size, per dozen 1 00 to 2 00 At first sight strangers to Mex- ico are struck with the extreme cheapness of many things; but when the}'' thoroughly investigate CHUBGHES— CONVENTS 51 the matter, tliey find that like all other countries where high duties exist, living is dear. Most solid table provisions are certainly- very cheap, such as meat, vege- tables, butter, game and poultry; but wine is expensive and bread is dear. Servants receive high wages, and do but little work ; rents too, are heavy, and as to dress, it is exorbitant. To resume the ques- tion in a few words, it can be said, that the prices of the products of the country and native labor are generally low, but those of all im- ported goods and foreign labor are extravagantly high. BANKS — Bancos, Banco de Londres, Mexico y Sud Amer- ica, calle de Capucliinas, No. 3, capital (£3,000,000) Limited. Barron Forbes & Co., 1st de San Fran- cisco, No. 9. Benecke & Co., E. calle de CapuGhinas, No. 7. Bermejillo Pio, «& Co., calle de Cadena, No. 21. Graham Phillips & Co., calle Don Juan Manuel, No. 10. Gutheil & Co., calle Ocampo, No. 1. Haghenbeck, C, calle de Cadena, No. 5. Lescurain & Co., calle Tercera Ordende San Augustin, No. 5. Martin Daran & Co., calle de Cadena, No. 16. Martinez & Co., calle Don Juan Manuel, No. 23. CAKRiAGES — Goclies or Carruajes. Carriages without numbers out- side, may be had by applying to the owners, at higher prices. The numbered ones are to be found in the streets; and those with coachmen speaking English, at the doors of the hotels (negroes). The fares are as follows : From 6 A. m. to 10 p. m. For less than half an hour without stopping $0 25 For one hour, or over half an hour 50 From 10 p. m. to 6 A. m. For half an hour . . . . $0 50 For one hour 1 00 Gratifications to the coachmen are not obligatory. Churches — IgUsias. Convents— Conventos. The Eepublic of Mexico con- tains three archbishoprics, and fourteen bishoprics. The long struggle for the tem- poral power of Mexico, between the liberal party and the Roman clergy, has finally resulted in the defeat of the latter. As long as Mexico was under the yoke of Spain, the clergy was in its glory. ' Their spiritual power was illimited, and their temporal force was great; for the priesthood had based them on the fanaticism of an uneducated population; besides, the clergy held immense property, valued at $144,000,000 ; and the income at $12,000,000 ; and as landlords, they also kept the people under the pressure of their iron hand. But, 1 " The monarch] al Europe was the work of Catholicism. Politics were made to the image of the church. Authority- was founded on a mystery. The Kight came from above. Power, like faith, was reputed to be divine. The obedience of the people was sacred, and for that reason inquiry was a blasphemy, and servility to it a virtue."— Xamflf^me; Les Cfirondins. 52 CHURCHES''C0NVENT8. like the clergy of all other Roman Catholic countries, they abused their influence. Their prestige received the first blow when the Mexicans gained their independence. Little did Hidalgo think, when he deployed the flag of revolt, bearing the im- age of the Virgin of Guadalupe, that he, a priest, was giving the death blow to the power of his Church ! Instead of accepting the ac- complished facts, and modifying the laws of the church to meet and comply with progressive ideas ; in- stead of being satisfied with the Spiritual power, they made every effort to seize the government of the country, by fomenting revolu- tions, under the form of pronunci- amientos, at the head of which were generals supported by their sub sidies and moral influence. Their two sinews of war were so power- ful, that they were successful sev- eral times ; but they have been slowly losing ground since the year 1857. The second serious blow they received, was the law ^ on church property ; but they partly atten- uated its effects. Priests not being allowed to hold property, caused it to be bought in the names of their relatives, so that really they still owned a large part of the real estate. We were personally a witness of one of the outbreaks of hostilities between the liberal and clerical parties. It was on Lady-day, 9th of April, of the year 1857. Every Law of nth September, 1856. year on that day, the clergy was accustomed to present the keys of the Cathedral to the governor of the city, who kept them three days. That year. Governor Juan Jose Baz, now a deputy, presented himself as usual, at the head of a company of soldiers ; but the vicar refused to give up the keys of Saint Peter. The governor ordered the church to be cleared, and made prisoners the priests then present in the Basilic. The archiepiscopal palace was at once surrounded with troops, and the archbishop himself confined within its walls. Comonfort was then in power for the second time, but shortly afterwards, he was obliged to flee momentarily before Zuloaga, the victorious clerical general. Several presidents succeeded to each other, liberals and clericals, as may be seen by the list of rulers, one of whom, Benito Juarez,held his court at Vera Cruz. It was there, that he issued on the 12th of July,1859, the law declaring the liberty of Religion, and the confiscation of the church property, in favor of the Nation, it was completed by that of the 14th Dec. 1874.^ This state of things lasted until the French in- tervention, when the clergy re- covered part of its power ; Arch- bishop P. A. Labistada and Bishop J. B. Ormaechea having been nam- ed members of the regency (1864), 1 Juarez had no doubt read the opinion emitted by Gremaud, at the theological tournament of 1406, viz: " The Pope and prelates are not the lords of the church property, they are only the defensors and proctors of it."— ^. de Bonnechose. CHURCHES— CONVENTS. 53 composed of four persons only. But since the repossession of the power by B. Juarez, all laws con- cerning the church were again put into force. On the other hand, Protestant- ism is making its way slowly but surely ; the means employed by the missionaries being diamet- rically opposed to that of the Eoman Catholic clergy. The lat- ter proceed by working the Index Expurgatorius and by the sup- pression of knowledge.^ The others conquer the minds and souls of the masses by the dif- fusion of education. When we cast a look back to the days of the conquest, we cannot refrain from making a compari- son : Hernand Cortes imposed the rule of Spain with the cross in one hand and the sword in the other ; thus the conquered Astecs were forced to repudiate their Gods and belief. Their civilization was de- stroyed and replaced by another one. Now, is the Mexican civili- zation of a higher order than un- der Moctezuma II., and would it not have been superior without the 1 This mode of domination was copied by the Catholic church from the Egypt- ians ; for in Egypt, before Jesus Christ, the priests were in post=e6sion of part of the land. Their power was so great that under Sesostris, they presided at the con- stitution of the state, thence their influ- ence. They cultivated sciences to a high degree. This explains their moral supe- riority, which they always endeavored to keep over the people by maintaining them in ignorance, so as to govern and ransom them the more easily. Voltaire says some- where : " An impressionable ignorant al- ways finishes by becoming a devout. " intervention of Spain? The Mex- ican race traversed three and a half centuries of subjection to finish by the present republic, no better than those of Tlascala, Cholula, and Huehotzingo, but less stable. And has the race improved by the practice of Roman Catholicism and the intermixture of Spanish blood ? We are led to doubt it, when we see the liberal ideas of the learned and compare the majority of the present generation to the remains of the Astecs found in the country. The enlightened Mexicans them- selves admit it, by encouraging Protestantism, provoking the im- migration of Northern Europeans, and renouncing to encourage, as North America and Cuba do, the coming of Chinese to their coun- try. To complete their project of reforming the race, we remind the Mexican government of the means employed in Greece to form their youths from their cradle ; thus making them robust and cour- ageous, ' ' Their nurses did not con- fine their limbs ; they made them fearless in the dark, and taught them to only complain by necessity. At seven years old, public teachers exercised them to work, to be pa- tient, to bear fatigue, to the most prompt obedience, and subjected them all to the same rules, because they were all born to fulfil the same duties." And now, that missionaries are preparing another religious re form, by the force of reasoning and logic, as well as by the benefit of instruction, are we not to hope that the principles of Wycliffe, 54 CHURCHES— CONVENTS. Jolm Huss, Luther and Calvin will operate in Mexico the same result as they have done in England, North America and Germany ? Will it not gradually regenerate this half-bred Latin race ? The liberal minded Mexicans appear also to be of that opinion. Ojala ! ^ The propagation of Protestant- ism in Mexico is principally due to the efforts of two different missions. To that of " the Protestant Episco- pal Church," at the head of which is the Rev. Doctor Henry Chaun- cey Riley, who has devoted a large ^ On followiug np to their sources, the rivers of the Oder, the Vistula, the Pregel, and going from. West to East, instead of Onding numerous Protestant towns, clean and rich, one meets with Catholic villages, dirty and squatted around castles inhabi- ted by brave but idle nobility, and sur- rounded by a crowd of Jews, who always pullulate wherever they can live on the id- leness and ignorance of a half barbarous race.— Thiers' History of the Consulate and Mnpire. Four great events which succeed to each other in the space of fifry years, mark the end of that gloomy Middle Age. Ca- liginoso, a poet of those days, called and prepared "Xa Benaissance,'''' which name defines so well its character : The discovery of printing in 1450, which arms the human mind with the lever di-eamed of by Archimedes ; the taking of Con- stantinople by the Turks in 1453, which spreads in Europe the fertile remnants of Grecian civilization ; the discovery of America in 1492, which extends the limits of the Universe, and the reform of Luther in 1517, which introduces for the second time into the Roman Catholic world, the pnnciples of liberty which will finally ab- sorb it ; these events, which appear inde- pendent of each other, are the revelation of a want of curiosity which works on the minds of the new generations, and which their rulers can no longer satisfy. {Chevalier Sarii.) part of his own fortune to his en- terprise, and " the Methodist Epis- copal Church," under the super- intendence of the Rev. Doctor Butler. After the events of 1857, a group of Mexicans, pious and liberal minded men, united their efforts to establish a new religious era in their country, by disarming the tyranny of Rome and encouraging the elementary and religious edu- cation of the people by the propa- gation of the Bible. Under the name, first of: " The Constitutional Clergy," and later of: "The Old Catholic Party," they rallied around them several priests, one of whom, Mr. Francisco Aguilar, took an important part. The second empire naturally retarded the J movement ; but did not destroy the 1 sacred syndicate, for in 1865, we find the worthy leader organizing an Old Catholic congregation in a chapel of the old convent of La Profesa, calle San Jose del Real. There, he preached the emancipa- tion of the Catholic Church. But his constitution did not re- sist long the opposition he had to contend with from the clergy and even from the majority of the population. He died soon after. As he had not lived long enough to form his disciples into a well organized church, the flock saw, with dismay, that the congregation would soon be drifted asunder, and in the year 1868, they re- solved to send a deputation to the United States of America, to ask for aid. CHURCHES— CONVENTS. 55 Tlie Rev. Henry Chauncey Riley had all the qualities required ; lie is a real Christian, and pos- sesses a profound conviction, a fine education, and a thorough knowledge of the Spanish lan- guage. Such is the young and successful presbyter who consent- ed to make the abnegation of fam- ily ties and devote his life and for- tune to the welfare of his fellow- creatures. He was received with open arms, and, in spite of the threatening attitude of the clergy and fanatics, President Juarez braving them, ceded, at a nom- inal price, to the Rev. Dr. Riley, the church of San Jose de Gracia, built in 1659, in the street of the same name. The first steps taken by the new minister were to estab- lish a Bible depot, to circulate large numbers of Christian tracts, Bibles and New Testaments, and to propagate the translation of " Ihe Bight of Reading the Bible," ^ to which Mr. F. Aguilar had greatly contributed. ^ The opposition made by the Catholic clergy proved how suc- cessful he was ; for every strata- gem was employed to stop this progress ; but the impulse was given ; the time was come for the people to open their eyes.^ The French occupation had lar- gely contributed to make them feel 1 The custom of reading the Bible in family circles was originated by the Bo- hemians. 2 In a dominant church the genius of intolerance betrays its cause ; in a weak and persecuted church the same genius mainly supports ii.—Lord Lytton. the deficiency of their elementary instruction. To the threats of murder, the Rev. Dr. Riiey re- plied by issuing a new tract ; and such were its effects that, amongst many, Mr. Manuel Aguas, one of the most prominent Catholic preachers of the country, joined the Old Catholic party. It was then, that a fanatic priest chal- lenged the Protestant party to a public discussion, and retired in- cognito into the country to pre- pare his means of attack and de- fense. But Archbishop La Basti- da (the actual one), did not ap- prove of him, and not being able to discover his retreat, forbade him, through the newspapers, to attend the proposed controversy. The day of the spiritual tourna- ment arrived ; the church was crowded, and five or six thousand spectators could not be admitted. The Protestant and Old Catholic party defenders were at their post, and ready to treat the chosen text . "Is the Boman Church Idola- trous?"^ But the provocator did not appear, fearing, no doubt, to 3 Emile de Bonnechose, in his history of " The Reformers Before the Eeform^'" quotes the following passage of a letter written from Bruges, by Gerson, the sup- posed author of " TJ Imitation de Jesus- Christ,'" to Pierre d'Ailly, Bishop of Cara- brai : " I speak from experience. I de- clare that in onr cathedrals, and almost everywhere, they celebrate insane rites, which are the remains of the sacrile- gious ceremonies of the heathen and idol- aters. The word of God, which is cer- tainly the greatest remedy for spiritual maladies, and the predication of which is the principal duty of prelates, is abandoned as useless, and as if it were beneath their highness." 56 CRUBGHES—CONVEIi'rS. brave tlie wratli of his chief , and '' Le conibat jinit faute de combat- tarits / " That defection produced a great moral effect on the population, and was the cause of many deser- tions from the Roman camp to that of the Old Catholic party. The new faith then took its essor. Every day brought new converts from the remotest parts of the country. Many cases of extraordinary conversions are told, and such has been the success of this new reform that the "Old Catholic Church of Jesus," as it is now called, has as many as fifty- nine congregations in the country, six of which are in the city of Mex- ico. A school is attached to some of the congregations, and it is really touching and edifying to witness the pious attendants, old and young, following in Spanish (for they all know how to read) the Divine service, and mingling their voices with the notes of the organ. Moreover, the worthy pastor has established an orj)hanage and asy- lum, in which he not only proposes to receive the helpless and give a religious education to the orphans, but also to teach them a trade, so that they may be useful to them- selves and to the mission also, by Mattliias de Janaw, the confessor of Charles VI., said that the Antichrist had ah'eady appeared on earth. " His deeds," said he, " consist in human fables and in- ventions, in the worshij) of idols and false relics.''''— E. de B. In antiquity the Persians had neither temples nor imaires ; they said that it was insulting the divinity to enclose it with vralls. spreading the Gospel throughout the country. The orphanage is under the direction of the pious and worthy Mrs. Hooker. Contri- butions in behalf of this very im- portant and deeply interesting Christian work are very much needed, and can be sent to aid it, addressed : Rev. H. Chaun- cey Riley, care of the Amer- ican Church Missionary Society, No. 3 Bible House, New York (United States). The mission of the Methodist Episcopal Church entered Mexico in January, 1873, and at once com- menced operations by purchasing premises in the cities of Mexico and Puebla. The property ac- quired in the capital was formerly the Convent of San Francisco, which a few years ago was prob ably the largest one in the world. It extended over four blocks of ground, had several churches, with extensive gardens and cloisters, and controlled large endowments. Its capacity for the entertainment of monks was immense. The law of the 17th Sept., 1856, broke up the vast establishment, which was divided into several portions and sold by the government to different parties. The central portion, including the "patio" (yard) and cloisters (100 by 170 feet in extent), has passed into the hands of the Meth- odist Episcopal Church, and has been adapted to their mission pur- poses at a considerable outlay. Two other parts are occupied by the Rev. Dr. H. C. Riley, whose CHURCHES—CONVENTS. 57 property they are, and the main church a most noble building, belonging also to him, is awaiting repairs, to be opened to Divine service. The Jesuit historian, Clamjero, in his "Ancient History of Mex- ico" (Book v., p. 100), tells us that these premises are on the very site of one of the celebrated palaces of Moctezuma ; and the missionaries when re-laying the floors found the proof of this fact by discover- ing one of the fountains which Clavijero described. Moctezuma and Clavijero, could they arise from the dead to-day, would be confounded to witness the transformation that has taken place within the last two years upon this historic site of theirs. Instead of the pagan palace or the Romish convent here stand to-day beautiful Protestant churches, with vestries and class-rooms, and the Evangelical printing office of the Methodist Episcopal Church, a girls' orphanage, vnth thirty Mex- ican children, besides two parson- ages for the missioners, and other accommodations. Equally remarkable is the pur- chase made by the same church in the city of Puebla, where the lat- ter mission has secured the cen- tral portion of the Inquisition building, several of the cells in- cluded; and out of these premises they have made a chapel, boys' orphanage, school, and parsonage — a very complete mission estab- lishment. From out of these cells were taken the ghastly evidence of the terrible deeds done there in other days by the Church of Rome — deeds that can occur no more, and over which humanity, while it shudders at the sight, desires to draw the veil and leave them to their authors, to the just judgment of Him who, in His own time and way, will *' bring to light the hid- den things of darkness," and rec- tify and avenge all the wrongs of this world! Besides Mexico and Puebla, the Methodist Church have extended their missions to Miraflores, Mis- coac, Pachuca, Real del Monte, and Orizaba, with others around each of them, making at this date 14 congregations, four of which are in Mexico City; Trinity church (which is situated at No. 5 Calle de Gante), having three chapels asso- ciated with it in different parts of the city, and connected with each of them is a school. Its hours of religious worship, on the Sabbath, are half past 10 A. M. and half past 7 P. M., and on Tuesday evenings at half past 7. Besides the work in the Spanish language, this mission also pro- vides religious services in the Eng- lish language for residents and visitors, in all the localities except Mixcoac. The place where the English service is held in the city of Mexico is in the old Library Hall of the San Francisco Convent, at No. 13 San Juan de Latran, at half past 10 o'clock every Sunday forenoon. The pastor is the Rev. Dr. Butler, who resides at No. 5 Calle de Gante. The general statistic of Protest- antism in Mexico is : Congregations, 58 CE UBCHE8— CONVENTS. 125 ; followers, it is supposed, over 6,000 ; teachers, 120 ; schools, 50 ; scholars, 1,500 ; missionaries, 4 ; total of persons employed, 150. In one of the neatest and newest streets of Mexico, called Calle Cinco de Mayo, No. 8, is situated the Bible depot of the British and For- eign Bible Society. This beautiful street is one of the results of the reforms insti- tuted by President Juarez, Up to his time it was the site of one of those many monstrous convents now nomore. Thus the Bible Depot stands now where once stood the Bible's great opponent. In the two front windows of the Depot are placed on one side open Bibles in foreign languages, on the other side open Bibles in the Span- isn tongue. At all hours of the day may be seen Mexicans stand- ing before these, either gazing in wonder on Arabic or Russian char- acters or reading in their own tongue " the wonderful works of God." For several years previous to 1864, the British and Foreign Bible Society made repeated efforts to introduce the Bible into priest- ridden Mexico. Oftentimes its books were destroyed and burnt by order of the Archbishop of Mexico. But with admirable persistence it continued to send its Bibles till, in 1864, Mr. J. W. Butler, of the Society of Friends, was appointed agent. Mr. Butler travelled mth Bibles from place to place with a zeal and self-denial almost apos- tolic. Sometimes he was in dan- ger of imprisonment, at other times in danger of greater perils. In one of his journeys he pro- voked the following notice : " NOTICE TO THE FAITHEHL." " There has come to the notice of the Holy Mitre, that in this city they are selling Bibles, publicly, in the vulgar tongue and without notes, and their reading being prohibited by the Church, as is just, by the Bulls of the Supreme Pontiffs, and by the Holy Council of Trent ; by the order of the illus- trious Lord Bishop, we make this known to the faithful, to the end that they do not purchase the said Bibles,and that those who may have bought, do not read them or retain them, but deliver them up imme- diately to the ecclesiastical author- ity." Some, perhaps, did deliver them up to be burnt, perhaps others kept and read them, so that now, as the result in great measure of this earnest Bible work, there are more than one hundred Protestant churches in different parts of Mex- In the year 1872, the present Superintendent, the Rev. William Parkes, Congregational minister, was appointed agent. Mr. Parkes has had under his direction sev- eral colporteurs, whose work is to travel into the interior with Bibles. In 1872, the issue from this depot was 10,002; 1873, 15,112; 1874, 25,302. Perhaps for the past five or six years the annual average has been GHUnCEES— CONVENTS. 59 a circulation of about twenty thousand copies of the Scriptures, either in whole or in part. The Cathedral — La CatedraL The Cathedral of Mexico City, sit- uated on the Plaza Mayor (princi- pal square or parade), is flanked at its left by the Sagrario, which is the general parish church of the town, and an entirely dis- tinct one. The Cathedral is erected on the very spot where Cortes found and destroyed the Astec Teocalli, dedicated to the Mexican God : Huitzilopetchli. When the conqueror distributed the land of the ancient city, he first gave this spot to the Franciscan monks to build a church on, but he changed his mind and gave them the land on which now stands the re- mains of their old church and con- vent and bought the land of the Plaza Mayor of them for $40. A first Cathedral was built in 1530, but demolished, being too small. ^ The body of the actual edifice was begun in 1573, finished in 1667,' and cost $1,762,000, at the expense of the Crown of Spain. The towers were began by Juan Lozano and finished in 1791, by Damian Ortiz, an American archi- tect ; the cost was $194,000, being a total cost of $1,956,000. The 1 The Cathedral was founded by- Carlos V. and a bull of Pope Clement VII. in date of 9th September, 1530. 2 It was dedicated on the 2d February, 1656, although it was not finished, but fi- nally dedicated on the 22d December, 1667. bases of its columns are cut out of the Astec idols foand in the teo- calli. Its dimensions are as follows : — From north to south 426 feet. From east to west 200 " Height of roof 175 " Height of towers 200 " Width of towers (square) 32^ " Height of statues from the ground. 126 " Their height 12 " The two churches, forming one sole building, although of a differ- ent style of architecture, are sur- rounded by chains, supported by one hundred and twenty-four stone pillars. Thence the name of El Paseo de las Gadenas (the prome- nade of the chains), in which the Mexican population delighted on moonlight nights from eight o'clock P. M. until midnight, be- fore the plantation of the actual garden in front of the basilic. At each of the two front angles of the square formed by the chains is a stone pedestal, measuring thirteen and one-half feet high. At each corner is a human skull carved out of stone, and on the top a wooden cross, seven feet high, around the basis of which is a stone-carved serpent. The em- blem of these small monuments is as follows : the skulls remind us of Death ; the serpent represents the origin of the original sin, and the cross is the sign of the Redemp- tion. The gates of the basilic are of the Ionic and Doric orders, as well as the towers ; as to the edi- fice itself, it is simple but impos- ing. Cemented in the wall on the west side of the Cathedral is the Astec calendar, carved out of a 60 GHUBGHES— CONVENTS. T#lock of basalt and weighing twenty-five tons, its diameter being eleven feet. It bas been tbere since 1790, and is supposed to date as far back as 1279. It is divided into three hundred and sixty-five days with an interca- lation of thirteen days for each cycle of fifty-two years, thus approaching the Asiatic calendar. There are/ac simile of it in wax, but they are not conform to the original. Photographs of it are preferable (see page 74). The interior of the Cathedral is of the Doric order There are five naves, fourteen chapels, and six altars. 1st. The altar of the kings, under which are the tombs of the Vice Roys. In the chapel which contains this altar, is also a crystal chase, rich- ly adorned, inside of which, on a gilded metal plate, are the skulls of Hidalgo, Allende, Adama, and Jimenez , and the bones of Mina and Moreno ; the key is in charge of Congress ; 2d. The altar of the Souls ; 3d. The altar of Good Resolutions ; 4th. The altar of Saint Joseph ; 5th. The altar of Saint Laurent ; 6th. The altar of Pardon, in which masses are said for the deceased. The Virgin was painted by Cabrera in 1700, and the Saint Sebastian, by the wife of Balthazar de Echave, in 1645. The Glory of the Cupola was painted by the Spaniard R. Sim- eno y Planes, then the teacher of painting at the academy of San Carlos. On the first plan are placed the ancient patriarchs and cele- brated women of the Old Testa- ment. The choir is surround- ed by a balustrade of metal call- ed tumbago (pinchbeak). The one which is around the master altar is of the same material, as well as the 62 statues which serve as chandeliers. This balustrade and the principal front of the choir were manufactured at Macao (China), and weighs 26 tons. The master altar is preceded by 7 steps. In its middle is placed the Tabernacle, supported by 8 ranges of stucco colonnades, on the two first ranges of which stand the Apostles, the Evangelists and principal Saints, and on the third rank, a group of angels, among whom is the Virgin Mary. Then come intermixed the following treasures: six gold chandeliers, a cross, the body and pedestal of. which are inlaid with precious stones, another cross of filigree, six dazzling bouquets, four more chandeliers, twenty chalices, six cruets and their stands, also of gold, a pix weighing 104 ounces of gold, value $1,664, and covered with 1,676 diamonds ; a chalice adorned with 122 diamonds, 132 rubies, 143 emeralds, the whole mounted on 84 ounces of gold worth $1,344 ; two golden censers, the statue of the Conception in silver, weighing 38 marcks, value $304, The principal censer, meas- uring one yard high, is enriched on one side with 5,872 diamonds and on the other with 2,653 emer- alds, 106 amethysts, 44 rubies, 8 sapphires and weighs 704 ounces of gold ($11,764) ; 11 lusters of 24 branches each, 2 pairs of large chandeliers, 4 perfuming pans, 2 CHUR CHES— CONVENTS. 61 yards high, 8 statues, another cen- ser and a large quantity of silver and golden bouquets. But one important piece is now missing, the statue of the Assumption/ It weighed 6,984 castelones of gold, $1,089,504, and was cov- ered with precious stones. The large censer and the greatest part of the jewels and ornaments were bestowed on the Cathedral by Emperor Charles V. of Spain. The sight of the Cathedral and its treasures recalls to one's mind the words addressed by the Alcade of Sevilla to the architect of the cathedral : " Build us a church," said he, " which will make posterity believe that we were mad." In 1837, an earthquake caused such damage to the Cathedral that the canons were obliged to sell some of their treasures to meet the expense of the repairs. An old Mexican tells us that the most valuable of the marvels which were sacrificed was a lamp of 23 feet high and 9 feet in diameter. It contained 54 branches, and had cost $71,348. Besides the ordinary high and low masses, confirmation is given in the Cathedral every Sunday morning at 11 o'clock, and often by the Archbishop himself. Hereafter, we give the names of the other principal churches only, the others being in ruins or con- verted into factories or houses, since the law of 1856. Before then, there were in Mexico; 78 churches and chapels, 15 convents of men and 32 of women. A re- 1 It dated from 1610. cent decree has dispersed the Sis- ters of Charity; the Mexican-born as well as those who came from France. It is said that the nego- ciations between France and Mex- ico for the re -establishment of political and consular connections, which were far advanced at one time, were broken off on that ac- count. Many high-minded Mexi- cans, who had approved of the measures taken against the in- triguing clergy, outdoor proces- sions and the wearing of ecclesias- tic dresses in the streets, deplored the destruction of the Order of the Sisters of Charity, who were so useful to the sick of all classes; but the Government based its measure on such reasons, which if true, explain its rigor ; Churcli of Incarnation, La Incar- nacion 1639 Jesus Mary Jesus Maria 1621 Loreto Loreto 1819 Saint Bernard San Bernardo 1685 " Clara Santa Clara 1579 " San Diego 1591 " Dominic " Domingo 1716 " Hypolytus " llivolito 1599 At the comer of the wall which encloses the church-yard is a stone escutcheon in which is carv- ed an eagle flying away with an Indian in its claws. An inscription dated 1874, states that this church was rebuilt in 1599, on this spot, where Cortes had made in 1521 an hermitage, in memory of thenoche triste — it being the very site of his defeat and where was the ditch over which Pedro de Alvaredo made his famous leap that saved his life. Church of Saint Fernand— /Saw Fernando (1755). 62 CHURCHES— COI^ VENTS. It was in a wall of the interior of this cliurcli that "La Sontag," the singer, was buried. She died in 1856, at the same time as her nat- ural son, Pozolini — some say of cholera, others pretend that a cer- tain Count on his death -bed, at Brussels, confessed that he had poisoned them both , not knowing the ties which united the mother and son, and being jealous of their mutual affection. Church of Saint John of God — San Juan de Bios (1729). Church of La Prof esa — La Pro- fesa (1720). The first establishment of La Prof esa was founded by the Jesuits in 1592. When they were ex- pulsed from Mexico in 1767, the property was turned into the college of San Ildefonso, but on the 25th of March, 1771, the fathers of the Oratory of Saint Philip de Neri, bought it. and ob- tained on the 24th of December, 1697, a bull for the establishment of their congregation. Church of Saint Catalina de Sena — Santa Catalina de Sena. In the chapel of the old convent of the same name, built in 1613, every year, on the 5th of March, there is the celebration of a miracle. It appears that on the night of the 5th March, in the year , Jesus Christ, wishing to give a proof of his predilection to a nun of the convent, left his niche in the chapel, paid her a visit in her cell, and stamped on her hands and feet the marks of His own wounds. When he left her, it was raining, and so as to protect Him from be- ing wet, she covered Him with her rebozo, which was found around Him the next day. This miracle contains four miracles. 1st. The visit. 2d. It was the first and last time it rained in Mexico on the 5th March. 3d. The impression of the wounds. 4th. He who walked on the waves without wetting His feet, feared a few drops of rain ! The almanack of Padre Cobas, for 1875, says : "Let those believe it who can do so, without laughing at such nonsense." Church of The Sagrario — El SagrariG (1766). As we have said above (page 59), this church stands by the side of the Cathedral, and is the principal parish church of the fourteen parishes of the city. According to the records of Cortes himself, the first Sagrario was erected in 1524 ; but it was destroyed by fire and rebuilt in 1766-68. Its style con- trasts with that of the Cathedral, it being that created by the archi- tect Churriguera, and of which there are so many churches all over Mexico. Confirmation is given in this church every Thursday, at 11 o'clock, A. M. Church of Saint Theresa — Santa Teresa (1701). Church of Saint Vera Cruz — Santa Vera Cruz (1730). Saint Antonio Abad — San Anto- nio Abad — (Church and Convent) were began in 1687. It was in the church that every year on the 17th January, the monks blessed the dogs, cattle, and asses of the whole valley. In 1842, the property was sold to M. Joseph Faure, and became the depot of CONS ULA TES—DA NGE8. 63 the line of carts between Mexico and Vera Cruz. It was sold in 1875 to the Rev. Dr. H. Chaun- cey Riley to establish his orphan- age. The Jesuits. — None of the relig- ious orders underwent the same vicissitudes as that of the Jesuits, The latter first made their appear- ance on the 23d June, 1570, headed by Father Pedro Sanchez ; they founded the Profesa in 1592, and others all over the country. Their first expulsion by Charles III. of Spain, dates from the 27th February, 1767. Pius VIII. issued a bull on the 7th August, 1814, re-establishing their order in Mexico, and on the 19th May,1816, the Jesuits made their second appearance in Mexico, conducted by Father Jose Castanisa. The Spanish Cortes annulled their order on the 23d January, 1821. Santa Anna opened the country once more to them in 1853 ; but they were finally dispersed in 1856, and their library, composed of twenty thousand volumes, was taken possession of by the Government on the 25th April, 1868. Consulates — Consulados, America, TJ. S. of— Dr. Julius A. Skilton, Consul. America, U. S. of— Jorge S. Sldlton, Yice- Consul, Plazuela de la Guardiola. Office hours from 10 a. m. to 3 p. m. Columbia.— 3 ose de Ansoategui, Consul, calle de Capuchinas. Office hours from 10 a. m. to 3 p. m. DenmarTc. — Charles G. KaufEmann, Con- sul, 9 calle St. Augustin. Office hours from 10 a. m. to 3 p. m, England.— A.-^'^lj to the U. S. of America Consulate. i^mnce.— Apply to the U. S. of America Consulate. Germany.— 'E&i&b&ry Benecke, Consul, calle de Capuchinas. Office hours from 10 a. m. to 3 p. m. /toZy-— Chevalier Giuseppe Biagi, Consul General, 1 calle Cinco de Mayo, No. 3. Office hours, 10 a. m. to 1 p. m. Perw.— Ismael Morales, Consul. Office hours from 10 p. m. to 3 a. m. /S^j«m.— Joaquin C. Roblado, Consul, Leon Marcos Stevens, Secretary, calle de Cadena No. 24. Office hours, from 10 a. m. to 4 p. m. Switzerland.— 'Lvda Kinast,Consul General, calle de San Augustin. Office hours from 10 a. m. to 3 p. m. Dances — Dansas. Fandango. — The national dances do not appear to have made one single step since the conquest; not even from the remotest times of the Astecs. Wherever we meet with dancing, be it on the flat boats of La Viga (see page 68), or in the churches or convents of Chalma, or again in the fondas of the Tierra Caliente, the movement has retained its dreary, monoto- nous step, although it assumes different characters, according to the place of performance. On the canal of Chalco, they celebrate the end of Lent, and crown themselves with roses, to welcome the month of Mary ; in churches and con- vents, the dances are of a reli- gious kind; and the night fan- dangos that take place on feast days and at the end of each har- vest, twice a year, have sometimes a fatal result. The music is com- posed of one single instrument, an old jingling guitar, played by a no less old Indian, who has not 64 DANCES— DOCTORS. changed his tune since his youth ; and if we give credit to the Mexi- can proverb : Cuando el Indio encanece, Jamas el Espanol no parece. "Wh-en Indians have grown old, Spaniards have left the world." no one can determine his age ; nor can one say which of the man or the guitar is the filthiest. Only one woman and one man stand up at a time, stamping in measure with the music ; the former only changing her attitude, now pro- voking, then voluptuous ; now en- tirely hidden under her rebozo, then, on the contrary, barenecked, showing her comb [cMliuzalco), in- laid with pearls and other precious stones, her diamond ear-rings and sparkling necklace ; her dancer watching her movements with ad- miration and CQvetness. A good dancer will follow the music for half an hour, with a glass full of water on her head, without spil- ling a single drop ; or tie into a knot a waist band with her feet, and then untie it by the same means. Suddenly also, the siren will seize her partner's or a by- stander's sombrero, and under its shade dart a wicked glance at the lookers on ; she will even grasp the machete (knife), of one of them and plant it in her luxurious hair, throwing a defy at his (novia) sweetheart. But then, if jealousy stings the heart of the latter, she orders her lover to deposit the weapon at her feet. He obeys, he springs into the dancing circle, a board not more than ten feet long, and as many wide ; and a dan- cing chase begins, for he must keep time with the guitar. If there be no animosity between the two men, it passes off in fun ; but if there exists any motive for a quarrel, or if they be excited by pulque or aguadiente, the mache- tes alone settle the matter. In a few minutes the dancing board is converted into an arena ; the spec- tators form a circle around it, and the musician ceases his monoto- nous notes. All is silent. The two champions are in the presence of each other. They have thrown off sombreros and chaquetas (jack- ets) ; their zarapes are rolled round their left arms, thus form- ing shields, whilst the knife partly disappears in their shirt sleeve. Not a word is said; every one is waiting for the result of the con- test in breathless anxiety. At last, the enemies spring forward ; the two bodies are embraced ; blows are given and parried ; but soon, one of them loses ground and he falls in a pool of blood! . . . . His conqueror quietly wipes his murderous weapon on his zarape, whilst the victim is carried away by his friends. . . . The follo^ving day another fan- dango takes place on the same spot, and so they follow each other, as long as the feast or the profits of the harvest last. As to the old artist, he hangs up his banjo, and, like the marmot, goes to sleep until the next season. Doctors and Dentists — Medicos y Dentistas. Manfred, H. P., Doctor of the mLlGENCES. -DTLm^^Q:ES.—DILIOENGIAS. 65 From. To. Days of Leaving. Hours. Bays Journey. Prices. Guadalajara. Zapotlan, via Sta. Ana. Zacoalco and Sayula. Mond. Wed. Frid... 3 a. m. 1 $4 00 Tolomfe Mond. Wed. Frid.... Mond. Wed. Frid.... 4 a. m. 5 a. m. 1 1 5 00 Lagos A guascalientes 7 00 Zacatecas Mond. Wed. Frid...'. 5 a. m. 1 10 OO Mexico Amecameca via Ayotla, Chalco and Tlalman- Tuesd. Thurs. Satur. 6 a. m. 1 3 00 alco, then to Cuantla. 1 300 (( Cuernavaca via Tepe- pa, Guarda and Huit- zilac Mond. Wed. Frid.... 6 a, m. 1 4 50 «< Guadalajara via Cuan- titlan, Huehuetoca, Tula, Nopala, Caza- dero, S. Juan del Rio, Queretaro Celaya, Salamanca, Irapuato, Guanajuato, Silao, Leon, Lagos, Pegue- ros, Tepatitlan Zapot- Mond. Wed. Frid.... Same days 7 a. m. 7 a. m. 6 6 25 00 <( Another line 45 OO (i Jalapa, via SanMareos on the arirval of the train from Mexico Mond.Wed.Frid 6 a. m. 2 9 00 u Monterey and Matamo- ros via Si a. Rosa, S. Miguel, Dolores Hi- dalgo, LaQuemada, S. Felipe, Jaral, Villa de Reyes, S. Luis, Bocas Moctezuma, El Vena- do, Charcas, Matchu- ala, Cedral, Salado, Jesus Maria, Saltillo. Monterey, General Trevino, Mier, Cam- argo Tuesd. Thurs. Satur. T a. m. 12 69 00 ti Morelia, via Lerma, To- luca, Ixtlahuaca, Jor- dana, Topetongo, Ma- ravatio, Acambaro, Zinapecuaro, Indapa- rapeo, Charo Mond. Wed. Frid.,.. 7 a. m. 3 19 00 (I Toluca via Tacubaya, Santa Fe, Contadero, Ciiajimalpa, lajalpa, Lerma. Mond. Wed. Frid.... 6 & 6i a. m. 7 & Ti a, m. 1 2 00 Ometusco... Pachnca via Tepa el Chico. Every day, on arrival of the train from Mexico 1 200 ({ Tulancingo via Zingui- Mond. Wed. Frid. on luca. the arrival of the train from Mexico. 1 300 Otumba Fachuca via Tezonte- pec. Every day, on the ar- of the train from Atlixo via Cholula 1 1 1 00 Puel)la Every day. 7 a. m. 1 00 Fm^tin Mond. Wed. Frid.... Tnesd. Thurs. Satur. 5 a. m. 4 a. m. 1 1 1 00 " Matamoros via Atlixco.. 2 50 " Tehuacan via Amozoc, Tepesca, Tecamachal- co Mond. Wed. Frid.... 4 a. m. 1 400 66 DOCTOnS—BBl VES— WALKS-GARDENS. m-Lm^'^CE.^.—JDILIGENGIAS. From. To. Days of Leaving. Hours. Days Journey. Prices. Puebla Tolome via Amozoc, Nopalucan, Tepeya- hualco, Perote, Jala- pa, Plan del Rio, Pu- eute Nacional, Paso Every Monday Tuesd. Thurs. Satur. Tuesd. Thurs. Satur. 6 a. m. 4 a. m. 6 a. m. 3 2 1 15 00 San Luis Toluca Zacatecas via Salinas, ElCaiTO,OjoCaliente. Tenancingo via Ten- 16 00 2 00 Mexican Eailway Company, Calle Cinco de Mayo 4. Skilton, Julius A., doctor of tlie American Legation, Plazuela de Guardiola. DKIVES- -WALKS — GABDENS ■ seos — Tivolis. ■Pa- Alameda, — La Alameda — from alamo, poplar. TMs square is near the centre of tlie town, and ten minutes' walk from tlie Plaza May- or. It would appear, from its name, that it was planted at first with poplar trees ; but if so, there are no remains of them, for the old trees are ashes, and the new ones are all Eucalyptus Globulus, the tree that grows so quickly and is expected to absorb the carbonic acid of the air, by decomposing the latter and letting free the oxygen. M. Van Gool, the able director of the Jardin des Plantes de San Fran- cisco, is a great propagator of this tree. " Four-fifths of the Mexi- can soil," says he, " is suitable for its growth, and its cultivation is not only desirable, on account of its healthy properties, but it is also indispensable to replace the im- mense quantity of wood that is now consumed in the Eepublic for railway and industrial require- ments, there being hitherto, no coal mines at work." The origin of the Alameda goes as far back as 1593 ; its establishment having been vo- ted by the municipality on the 11th January, 1592, but in those days it was divided into two distinct squares, one planted with trees, the other barren, where the in- quisition burnt its victims, and called quemadero (burning place.) On the 30th March, 1648, there was an auto dafS, in which perished twenty-eight men, accused of hav- ing professed the law of Moses. It was only in 1791, that the actual square, which measures 1350 feet by 700, was finally completed. It was then reserved for the richer class. It was only after the inde- pendence of Mexico that the foun- tains and seats were constructed, and that it was opened to the pub- lic in general. Its iron gates, which are still there, are those that closed on the Plaza Mayor, the space in the middle of which stood the equestrian statue of Carlos IV. (see page 84). In 1846, DBIVE8— WALKS— GARDENS. 67 on the return to power of Santa Anna, two of the fountains were filled with sweetened wine, for the " mle multitude," as Thiers used to call the people, before he turned republican. The Alameda now contains seven fountains, thirty avenues, and twenty-four garden plots which, we must confess, are not kept in good order, so that the only ad- vantage of the square is reduced to the shade of its trees. Morn- ing and evening many ladies go there to breathe the pure air, but it is principally frequented on Sunday mornings, from 10 o'clock to 12, when the military band is there. The gentlemen walk the avenues, and the ladies remain in their carriages. Several national holidays are celebrated around the large fountains, viz : The anniversary of the Battle of Puebla (5th May); the anniver- sary of the Independence of Mex- ico (16th Sept.); the anniver- sary of the entrance of Iturbide at the head of the Independent army (27th September), and the next day, in memory of the vic- tims of the Independence. Bucareli,Paseo del, or Paseo Nuem (new promenade), dates from 1778, and is so called because it replaced the old Faseo de la Viga, and has now become the fashionable resort of Mexican desozuvres, their Bois de Boulogne, whilst the latter one is the Bois de Vincennes of the poor- er classes. This substitution took place when the city, following the general law of all cities, took its essor towards the West. Bucareli was a viceroy, so much loved by the natives that he was surnamed the " Indian's friend and protect- or." Excepting during Lent all the gente decente (rich people) make this paseo the object of their daily drive ; the ladies in their dazzling dresses, and the caballeros in their picturesque costumes. Unluckily the ladies are not seen to advan- tage, as they drive out in closed carriages and at a late hour. Just as the sun disappears behind the mountains. President Lerdo de Te- jada drives once round the Paseo, in an open carriage, and attended only by two servants. The point for visitors to admire is at the foot of the statue of Carlos IV., that stands in the middle of a circle from which diverge several roads, just as the obelisk of Lucqsordoes in the centre of La Place de la Concorde of Paris. On going to this point by the south side of La Alameda, called Ave- nida Juarez, Juarez Avenue, the visitor leaves to his left the Hos- picio de los Pobres, and a barracks made out of the old prison of La Acordada, built in 1781. Beyond the statue in a straight line, is El Elijido (the chosen road), that leads to La Colonia de los Archi- tectos, a small suburb. On the right of the road are the back gates of the Tivoli del Eliseo, and of the property given to General Bazaine by Maximilian. ^ The right corner of the road is formed by a building at the rear of which was 1 It was confiscated by tlie government of Juarez and sold. 68 BBl VES— WALKS-GARDENS. f ormerlyZa Corrida de Toros (bull- ring), now destroyed ; tlie other comer forms tlie junction of La Calzada de la Beforma (the Re- form road), formerly called La Calzada del Emperador, which leads to the palace of Chapultepec, and was begun under Maximilian. Then comes at another angle the Paseo itself. On its borders are built private residences, and the Tivoli de Bucareli. Half-way is a fountain of white marble, sur- mounted by a statue of liberty, of no artistic value. To the left, in the fields, is the citadel of Mexico, from which the city can be bom- barded in times of revolution, and, at the extremity of the promenade, passes the aqueduct, which comes from Chapultepec, and ends with the fountain of Salto del Agua. The fifth and last artery of this circle fronts the Paseo and leads to Puente de Alvaredo almost at the height of Buena Vista. Zocalo El, or Parade Garden. This promenade is the square sit- uated on the Plaza Mayor, in front of the Cathedral. It is frequented by all classes of so- ciety. In the afternoon, on the stone and iron seats, the poorer and middle classes meet to listen to the music. At the corner of each artery which lead to the cen- tral point are cake stalls and ice cream dealers. Little boys run about the garden hawking in a moDotonous tone: " Niex>e, tome niem?" (Ice, will you take ice?) The word snow has been substi- tuted for ice ; because formerly, in Mexico, there was nothing but fro- zen snow brought from the moun- tains. Towards nine o'clock P. M. the better class begin to circu- late under the trees in the counter avenues and outward circle. This promenade is more thronged on Sunday and holiday evenings, and during full moons. At the four corners of the garden are small kiosks, similar to those of the boulevards of Paris ; they serve to dealers and for advertisements ; altho' outdoor advertisements are not yet ajDpreciated in Mexico. Tivolis : Tiwli de Bucareli, sit- uated on the Paseo of Bucareli — cafe and restaurant. French spoken. Tiwli delEliseo, Puente de Alva- redo, 25 i, before arriving at Buena Vista — cafe and restaurant. French spoken. Tivoli del Ferrocarril, Puente de Alvaredo, 6 — cafe and restaurant. French and English spoken. Tivoli de San Cosme, on the way to Tlaspana along side of the aqueduct, beyond the Garita de Mejia — cafe and restaurant. French spoken. This is the first pleasure garden established in Mexico, the most spacious and comfortable. It is certainly the best. Tivoli du Petit Versailles, on the road to "La Piedad," the French cemetery — cafe and restaurant. French and German spoken. Vign, Paseo de la, or Paseo Viejo (the old promenade), is FOUNTAINS. 69 only frequented by the fashion- able society during Lent, from Ash Wednesday to the Thursday of the Ascension. During that short period it is highly in- teresting to foreigners, especial- ly on Sundays and holidays. In the afternoon, from five o'clock, the road is literally covered with carriages and horsemen, passing up and down, and then forming a cir- cle around the statue of Cuante- motzin ; but its most picturesque part is on the canal of Chalco, which runs parallelly to the road and brings the waters of the Lake of Chalco into that of Tuxcoco. The fare for boats is 25 cents per hour. The view of this canal, contained in the ' ' Album of Mexico and its Environs," ^ represents the people as they are going up and down the canal on flat boats ; there, can be seen in all its primitive originality, the customs of the Mexicans. Women wrapped in their rebozos, dancing a fandango or a jarabe, as the light skiff glides on the wa- ter, by the music of a jaraniia, (small guitar). Hundreds of peo- ple are thus going up to the vil- lages of Santa Anita and Ixtacalco, which lie on the border of the canal ; there, they dance again, and spend in fruit, flowers and pulque, the earnings of the past week. And as they go, so they return ;but crowns of flowers have replaced the rebozos on their heads. Races take place between the boats; the boatsmen, excited by the passen- gers and pulque, try to get ahead of each other ; but they are so 1 Debray, Lithographer, Mexico. numerous, the canal is so narrow, and the dancers not always in the middle, so over they go. But the water is not deep, and they are quit for a cold bath. Nothing is more amusing than to see them by moonlight, crawl out of the ditch, their heads covered with wreaths of flowers and their bodies drip- ping with water cresses and herbs. They look like so many dryads. With a little imagination, one could imagine seeing the Astec Venus Tiazoltcockhua, (the goddess of pleasure) and her nymphs. Fountains — Fuentes. 8aMo del Aqua, (Leap of the Wa- ter, or Waterfall). This monument is situated at the extremity of the Aqueduct of Belem, in the sub- urb of Mexico, called Tecpan, and on the plazuela of San Juan. The aqueduct was begun on the 22d May, 1688. The water carried on its ar- cades is called aqua delgada, (pure water) and comes from the Albatoca, basin of Chapultepec. As it is seen in the ''Album of Mexico and its Environs," the fountain front is roughly built. It is of stone and its architecture known as the Ghurrigueresco style, is quite original. Like all the monuments of Mexico, the name of its author is not known ; but the records of the town tell us that it was erected in 1779. The medallion which is placed on the breast of the eagle, bore the coat of arms of the city of Mexico ; but it was erased at the proclamation of the Mexican Independence. 70 HOSPITALS. The arms were : On blue ground- ing, a gilded castle with, three bridges, on which rested two lions, the claws of which grasped the castle. The frame was composed of ten nopal leaves and an imperi- al crown surmounted the whole. Just before reaching Chapulte- pec, there is another fountain in- serted between two arcades of the same aqueduct. San Domingo, the fountain of — is placed in the middle of the square of the same name ; it is very simple, only being surmount- ed by the arms of the country. It was erected by M. Jose Maria Manero y Sylva, father of Vi- cente E. Manero. Tlaxpana, the fountain of — formed the end of the aqueduct of San Cosme. Its site was at Elpuente de Aharedo, (the bridge of Alvaredo), which was followed by the actual Calle de San Fer- nando, a little before getting to the railway station of Buena Vista. The 900 primitive ar- cades are now interrupted at the garita (gate) of Mejia, beyond the station, and from there the water is brought into the town by pipes. It is called ar/ua gorda (thick wa- ter), and proceeds from three sources, viz : the mountains of Las Palomas, of San Leones, near to the Desierto de Cuajimalpan (see page 90) and Santa Fe ; the cur- rent turns round the north of Chapultepec, and then runs off to Mexico, passing in front of the American Cemetery. The origin of the arcades goes as far back as 1608, and the fountain dates from 1737. It is of no artistic value, and its style was still less classical than that of Salto del Agua. Its principal carvings represented figures playing on violins, and in the middle was the coat of arms of the House of Austria. There still exists another fountain be- \ tween two arcades, a little before the aqueduct turns off south in front of the American Cemetery. Victory, the fountain of, — this fountain is placed in the centre of the circle which is in the middle of the Paseo of Bucareli. A statue of Liber- ty, of white marble, holds an escutcheon, on which is engraved: Independencia — 16th Sept. 1810. 'EospiTAi.s—Hospitales,—Hospicios. Blood, for the—Rospicio de Sangre. Divine Saviour, of the — Hospicio del Divino Sahador. General Hospital — Hospital Gene- ral. Jesus, of — Hospicio de Jijsws, found- ed by H. Cortes, in 1524. Juarez, of — Hospital de Juarez, formerly called San Pablo. — Founded in 1847. Military — Hospital Militar. Morelos — Hospicio de Mmxlos. Maternity and infancy of — Mater- nidnd y Infancia. Poor, for the, — Hospicio de pdbres. Founded by Bucareli in 1774. Saint Andrew — Hospital de San Andres (1779) Saint Hypolite — Hospital de San Hipolito. Saint John of God — Hospital San Juan de Dios (1582) Saint Lazarus — Hospital San La- zaro, founded by H. Cortes. HOTELS AND RE8TAVBANT8. 71 Syphilitics, for the — Hospicio de SifiUcos. The yearly income of the public hospitals amounts to $565,034.98. Hotels and Eestaueants — Ho- teles y restaurants, j The following prices of hotels i include service and lights. They j are arranged in alphabetical order, i not by class ; but their specialities I are noted : j Bazar, {del) calle del Espiritu Santo, central family hotel. French spoken. Rooms from $1 : to $2 per day — private terms for periods of fortnight or month, French restaurant, private saloons and garden ; terms seventy-five cents per meal ; special terms per week, fortnight or month. Wines and liquors ; table wine, $1 per I bottle. I Bella Union, corner of calle de laPalma. (Mexican hotel.) Boarding House, on the Am.eri- can system, kept by Mrs. Hube, i calle del Puente del Espirtu Santo, No. 4. English, French, German j and Spanish spoken ; terms per i day, week, fortnight and month, I according to the room. i Europa, calle de Coliseo Viego. (Mexican hotel.) Oillow, calle San Jose el Eeal, commendable family hotel, in an eligible and central situation. English and French spoken ; terms from $1 upwards, including light and service ; French restau- rant a la carte, special terms per week, fortnight or month. Gran Sodedad, calle del Espiri- tu Santo, (Mexican hotel) kept by Frenchmen. Gual, calle del Puente del Es- piritu Santo (Mexican hotel.) IturUde, Second calle San Fran- cisco, for single ladies and gentle- men ; English and French spoken ; rooms from $1 to $3 per day ; special terms for permanent boarders. French restaurant, kept by C. Recamier ; spacious private rooms and garden, k la carte or per agreement ; terms : Dejeuner a la fourchette or dinner, $1 ; per month, Dejeuner or dinner, |20 ; per month, Dejeuner and dinner, $30 : first class liquors, ordinary table wine, $1, and superior wines. Nacional, calle de la Profesa, central, (English spoken). Paris, calle de Tiburcio ; French hotel and restaurant. English spoken ; terms for board and lodg- ings, $7 per week ; meals a la carte, American dishes ; meals at fifty cents "wath beer ; wine fifty cents per bottle. Refugio, calle de Refugio, (Mex- ican hotel). San Augustin, calle San Augus- tin, (Mexican hotel). San Carlos, calle de Coliseo Vie jo, (Mexican hotel). San Francisco, calle de la Inde- pendencia, (Mexican hotel). Turco, calle de Coliseo "Vie jo, (Mexican hotel). German Fondas : callejon de Santa Clara, calle de Espiritu Santo, No. 9, and calle San Bernardo. (rrmif Ca/e, Restaurant of "La Concordia," A. Omarini, proprie- tor, pastry and ice creams, corner of Second Calle de Plateros and San 72 LEG A TIONS— LAKES. Jose el Eeal. French cooking, Dejeuners a la fourchette, dinners a la carte, and parties ; moderate prices ; saloons and private cabi- nets. English, French, Italian and Spanish spoken. LEGATIONS — Legaciones. America, TJ. S. of— John W. Fos- ter, Envoy Extraordinary and Min- ister Plenipotentiary. Daniel S. Eichardson, Secretary of Legation. Legation and Minister's resi- dence: No. 3 Calle de Lerdo. OflBce hours : 10 to 12 A. M. and 2 to 4 p. M. England. — Apply to the Ameri- can Minister. France. — Apply to the American Minister. Germany . — Hon. Eodolfo Le- maistre, Minister resident. Henry B, Von Boguslawski, Secretary of Legation. Legation and Minister's resi- dence : 3* Orden de San Angus- tin No. 4. Office hours : 11 a.m. to 2 P. M. Guatemala. — Eamon Uriata, En- voy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary. Vicente Carillo, Secretary of Legation. Legation and Minister's resi- dence : Calle Tiburcio No. 12. Of- flSce hours : 11 A. m, to 2 p. m. Lttily. — Chevalier Giuseppe Bia- gi, Charge d' Affaires. Legation and Minister's resi- dence : 1 Calle Cinco de Mayo No. 3. Office hours : 10 A. M. to 1 P. M. Spain. — Juan Blanco del Valle, Minister Plenipotentiary. M. Pas- tor, Secretary of Legation. Legation and Minister's resi- dence : Hotel Iturbide. Office hours : 11 A. M. to 3 P. M. LAKES — Lagos, Lagunas. Chalco. — This lake receives its vv^aters from the neighboring range of mountains. Contrary to the Lake of Texcoco, its water is fresh, owing to the current of the canal of Chalco, which carries the sur- plus of water into the above lake. Gliristdbal, the lake of San — is situated north of the city of Mex- ico. Texcoco, the lake of — is strongly impregnated with salt and soda, there being no outlet The sur- face of the lake has now attained the point of development at which the evaporation of the water is equivalent to its supply ; its stand- ing level being a little less than six feet under the footway of the southern corner of the national palace. According to Doctor Man- fred, the mud of the lake contains fifteen times more carbonate of soda than the water, which proves the principle of the condension of the latter. This learned gentle- man esteems the value of the soda contained in the lake at |;oOO,000,- 000. When, at times, the bed is uncovered, there appears a white efflorescence, called tequesquite by the natives. This immense rich- ness still remains to be utilized, there being only one small soda manufactory on the borders of the lake. The rock, called Pehon de los Banos — the rock of the baths — can be reached by a carriage in MEASURES, MONIES, AND WEIGHTS. 73 dry weather, but becomes an island during tlie rainy season. It is of porpbyric formation, and its batbs are provided with water by hot springs, It served to Moctezuma as a sporting island. The street which leads to the landing-place of the canoes is Calle de la Soledad de Santa Cruz. The price by the hour for the boats is 25 cents for each jjerson, and double for a whole party. No pulque ought to be allowed to the boatmen. Last April, a party of American ladies and gentlemen were compelled to pass the whole night on the lake, the rowers being dead-drunk. Xumpango is the lake which lies at the extreme north of the range of lakes in the Valley of Mexico, and near to the cut of Nochistango. Xaltocaii, the lake of — is situated north of that of San Christobal, and is in communication with the cut of Nochistango. Xocldmilco, the lake of —is near to that of Chalco, and is also formed of fresh water. Its name means, " In the flower plantation," and it no doubt came from the cMnampas — floating gardens — with which it was covered in former days. MEASUKES, MONIES AND WEIGHTS, OLD AND NEW. The metrical system has been adopted in the U. S. of Mexico, since the first of January, 1872, and a recent decree has declared it to be the sole legal one ; but as it will be some time before it comes into general use, we give the old and new systems compared with the English and American ones : — Old Measures. Legua (league)— 3 Mex. miles, 2>^ miles. Miim—\%mm Varas. Fara— 83 centimeters, 33 inch. 2-10 Fulciado—ma\\., 8 •'/o less than an English inch. New Measures. Kilometre, (kilometer) 1000 meters, 1086 yards. Metro (meter) 100 cent., 1 yard 3^^ inch. Centimetre, (centemetei-) 2>^ cent, to an inch. Old Coinage. Onza de oro (gold ounce) 16 dols. £3. 4 Doble pistole, double pistole 8 " 1.12 Pistole, pistole 4 " 16 Escudo de oro, gold ef=cudo 2 " 8 Escudillo, gold and silver 1 " 4 Taston, silver half dollar 4 reales 2 Peseta, " quarter 2 " 1 Real, " eighth 1 " 6dK Medio real, " sixfnth, 6^ centavos, 63^ cents 3K, Quartilla " thiriy-two parts 2 tlacos Tlaco, copper IdX New Coinage. Gold $20 piece {veinie jjesos) 20 dols. £4 10 " {Diez " )10 " 2 " 5 " {Cinco " ) 5 " 1 Silver 1 '• {nno " ) 1 " 4 " Cincuenta centavos 50 cents 2 " Veiute cinco centavos 25 " 1 " Diez " 10 " 5d " Cinco " 5 " 2>i^d Copper uiio " 1 " dX The article No. 1, of the law of 28th May, 1874, re-establishes the ancient type of the Mexican dollar, such as it existed before the law of 28th Nov., 1867 ; the fractions of the dollar are alone subject to this last law. That of the 28th Sept., 1867, fixed the date of the 15th September, 1868, as the latest date for the circulation of monies bearing the effigy of Maxmilian. Old Weights. Toneladad, ton 2200 lbs Quintal, 1001b. Mex. lbs. 101.440 avoir du pois. Arrode 25 " " " 25>^ 74 MISGELLANEO US. Libra (16 ounces) 1 lb. & 2Vo Media libra (8 ounces) >^ lb & ^Vo Onza (ounce) one ounce J^ew Weights. TondarJad, ton, 1000 kilos, 2200 lbs Kilogramo 2 lbs. & 11 Vo and the fractions of the French kilo. Miscellanies — Miscelanea. Abandoned Infants' House — Casa de Mhos Expositos (La Cuna). — TMs pMlantliropic establisliment was founded on tlie lltli January, 1766, according to some authors, and on the 21st Janiiary, 1767, ac- cording to others, in a house on the Plazuela de Carmen. Its yearly income is $12,733.92 ; but, as it was not sufBcient to pay the expenses, the asylum has had the benefit of a lottery. The average deaths amongst the children is from twenty-two to twenty-eight per cent. Alhamlra House.— "I^ns is the only house of its style in the city. It is situated in Calle del Escahua- tal No. 10, and is said to have been built by one of Cortes' de- scendants. Bridge of La Lena — Puente de La Lena, calle de Roldan. — This spot is the most picturesque part of Mexico ; but it must be seen very early in the morning. The bridge is thrown over the canal of Chalco, which comes by La Viga. There, all is bustle ; the peones bringing to town the pro- ducts of the haciendas, are mixed up with the kitolien gardeners of the Chinampas. Sugar, vegeta- bles, fruit and flowers are piled up pcle mCle on the Key, and then carried off to the custom-house or to the markets. Now and then, amidst the half -naked Indians, ap- pears a lady or a tourist, in search of flowers or sight-seeing. At evening the scenery changes ; the \ natives have sold their provisions ' and bought others, which they place on their flat boats and pole their way home as straight as the vapors of pulque will allow them. Near-by is a church, over the door of which may be read the following inscription : '■'■Antes de entrar ajirma con tu vida Santa Maria fue sin ])ecado concebida.''' The sense of which is : On thy life, believe, before going in. That blessed Mary was conceived without sin. Calendar — Calendario — The Az- tec calendar cemented in the wall of the western side of the Cathe- dral (see page 59). — We are indebt- ed for the following description to ou-r learned friend, Vicente E. Man- ero : This calendar is of a circular form, with different figures also di- vided by other circular lines. In the middle is a macareon, then four equal tables, supposed to be the four seasons. In the outside circle there are twenty compart- ments, which correspond with the tv/enty days composing each month, the names of which are : Cipactli, Eliecatl, Calli, Cuetzpalin, Coalt, Miquistle, Mazatl, FochtU, Alt, Itzcuintli, OzamatU, Malinatii, Acatl, Occlotl, Cuauhtli, Casaev- autli, Olin, Terpatl, Quiahuitl, XocMl. Then follow other fig- ures, concerning time and its di- visions. It is considered that the i Mexican year was equal to the MISCELLANEO US. 75 Egyptian one ; for, amongst other reasons, the year began on the 26th February, the day adopted in the time of Nabudonosor, and chosen by the Egyptian priests, seven hundred and forty-seven years before the Christian era. Moreover, Midday corresponds with the principle of the month Foth. The calendar was inaugu- rated in the great teocalli of Mex- ico city, on the 26th December, 1420. Cemeteries — Pantheones — Ameri- can and English ; on the road to Popotla — see tramways, French, it needs a private conveyance. Mexican — At Tacubaya. Custom-House — LaAduana — Pla- za San Domingo, in part of the ancient convent of the same name. It appears singular to hear of a custom-house in a town of the interior ; but it will appear less so when foreigners learn that, apart the duties of the ports, there is an extra one of two per cent, on those already paid. Example : An article paying fifty per cent. ad 'ddlorem at the ports pays one jDer cent, extra on arriving at Mex- ico. It was formerly six per cent, instead of two per cent. ; but it was altered in July, 1875, to give satisfaction to the merchants of the capital, who were in an infe- rior position to those of the ports. The law was put into vigor on the 1st of November following ; but, at the same time, the ten per cent. allowed on the duties at the ports were suppressed. Houses of Correction — Casas de Correccion. — The one for children is situated in the suburb called Tecx)am ; near to it is another one for soldiers. At Belen, anoth- er suburb, there is a general prison, called Carcel de Belem. Adjoining it, is a building in which are the criminal courts of the district. Finally, there is a provisory prison in the eastern part of the munici- pal palace. Humboldt's house — In which he lived while in Mexico, calle San Augustin, No. 3. Iturbide's House — Casa de Itur bide, 1^ Calle de San Francisco, No. 12. — When Iturbide made his entry into Mexico, at the head of the trigarante army (of the three guarantees, viz. : Keligion, Inde- pendence and Union), he took pos- session of this edifice, which had been built by some rich Spaniard. After then it became the property of several individuals, and was finally turned into an hotel, but was and is still known as "The Emperor's house." (See page 12.) Lotteries — Loterias in ■ Mexico city are an e very-day event. They are regulated by special laws, and are only conceded to railway com panies and societies of charity. A few figures on the matter may be interesting : The amount of money received from the sale of lottery tickets in the sole year of 1874 was $2,030,000 Expenses . . . $406,520 ) ^ ^-, o /^iro Premiums . . 1,307,258 ] ' ' Profits $316,222 Less the government duties of fif- teen per cent., and ten per cent, on the high premiums, which du- ties are applied to the support of schools, public works, etc. Mining establishment, the — La Mineria, calle de San Andres. — Al- 76 MISCELLANEOUS. tliougli the mines constituted tlie principal ricliness of tlie country, it was not until the 1st July, 1777, that a special body of miners was established in Mexico city. The building was begun in 1797, after the plan of Manuel Tolsa, the au- thor of the statue of Carlos IV, , and finished in 1813; it cost $1,500,000. It contains 7 yards, 11 fountains and 238 rooms. Owing, no doubt, to an earthquake, several parts of the edifice gave way.^ Eepairs were made in 1827, and again in 1830, which rendered it definitively solid. The school or College of Engineers is under the same roof. One of its scholars discovered a superior process of separating gold from silver; his name was Faboaga, and the king of Spain gave him the title of Marquis del Apartado; apartar, means to divide. The immense and varied collec- tion of ores of this establishment, gives an idea of the riches of the Mexican mines, and is worthy of being visited by strangers (apply to the director). Mint the. La Casa de Moneda, called del Apartado, was first estab- lished in the actual Municipal Palace, then removed behind the National Palace, on the site of the actual National Museum. Its building cost $480,000, and its an- nexes $530,000 more. It coined: From 1535 tol821: $2,151,581,961,31 reales " 1821 to 1856: 47o,316.492 It remained there until 1844, and was then transferred to where it now stands. Paicning establishment—^^ Mon- 1 Mopt long bnildinj^s offer flic same aspect. Sec Callc Dc laBucna Mucrta. tepio or Monte de P*er7a(?, situated in front of the western side of the Cathedral. — It occupies a part of one of the ancient palaces of Moctezuma, known as Cdsa delEs- tado del Vnlle (house of the State of the Valley), the land of which was allotted to' Cortes, who built a new palace with the ruins of the old one. It extended over the four blocks, now enclosed by the calle de Empedradillo, facing the Cathedral, the two calles of los ■ Plateros, Calle de San Jose el Real, calle de Santa Clara and that of Tacuba. The palace erected by Cortes was destroyed by fire on the 3d May. 1636, and 14th February, 1642, after which the actual build- ing was erected. The pawning priv- ilege opened on the 11th Febru- ary, 1775, belongs to private indi- viduals, the rate of interest, includ- ing expenses, is 1% per month. The tickets have to be renewed every eight months. Soldiers, the Mexican — Los sol- dados Mexicanos. — Those who have seen the French army, will be struck with the resemblance of the uniforms of some of the regiments of the two countries. The change from the old uniforms was made under Maximilian and from reasons of economy, no doubt, they have not been altered. We seize this op- portunity to do justice to President Lerdo de Tejeda, and the ability and energy of General Mejia, the actual minister of War, for the discipline and tenve of the Mexican army; for if there is still a certain number of careless, dirty drunken soldiers, the ensemhle is much im- proved. MUSEUMS, LIBBAHmS, ETO. 77 Superior Counsel of Health — Con- seco Superior de Salubridad, com- posed of five liouse-liolders and five assistants. — It was instituted on tlie 25th January, 1872. Testament and death of Hernand Cortes — Testamento y muerte de Hernando Cortes. By his will, made at Sevilla (Spain), under the date of 18th August, 1548, the conqueror of Mexico left all his titles, estates and property to his son Martin, issue of his marriage with the Marchioness of Da Tuana de Zuniga, with the obligation by him to give to each of his natural sons, Martin and Louis, whose mother was the devoted and sym- pathetic Dona Marina, the sum of eight thousand ducats of gold ($19,000 of our money), ordain- ing that the latter should pay obe- dience to his legal successor. Pope Clement VII. issued a bull by which he legitimated the sec- ond Martin Cortes, Luis Altami- rano and the nun Catalina Pizar- ro, all natural children of Hernand Cortes. Many authors, specially Riva Palacios and Lambien Mateos, made a confusion between the two Martin Cortes. The conqueror died at Castilleja de la Cuesta (Spain), on the 2d Dec. 1547. He was first buried in the monastery of St. Isidor, near to Sevilla ; then, in compliance with a clause of his will, his body was brought to Texcoco. When his son Pedro died, both their remains were transferred to the church of San Francisco, of Mexico city. On this occasion there were 3407 wax candles burnt, weighing 1622i Mexican lbs, and having cost $1,290.25. The other expenses amounted to $16,000. Viceroy Count of Revillagigedo, caused a mausoleum to be built in the hospital of Jesus of Nazareth, founded by Cortes, and on the 2d December, 1592, the remains of the Conquistador were deposited inside it On the 16th September, 1823, the anniversary of the Mexican IndeiDendence, when the skulls of Hidalgo, AUende, Adama and Jimenez, and the bones of Mina and Moreno were taken to the Cathedral, the mausoleum of Cortes was destroyed, and his body was provisionally buried under the pavement, to the right of the sanctuary. His remains were finally taken to Italy, where they are at the present day. Museums— LiBEABiES— Scientific AND Artistic Societies. — Museos — BiUiotecas — Sociedades Artisticas y CientiUcas. Academy of Fine Arts, Academia de Bellas Artes, founded by Carlos v., 8d September, 1551. Academy of St. Charles — Aca- demia de San Carlos, founded by Carlos IIL, 28th August, 1781. Architects' Society — Sociedad de los Arquitectos (private). Artistic Industrial Society — Sociedad Artistica Industrial. Open to the public the whole day. Club of the Future — Circulo del Porvenir (private). College of Fine Arts — Colegio de Bellas Artes (private). Concord Club — Circulo de la Concordia (private). 78 MUSEUMS, LIBRARIES, ETC. Conservatory of Music, and Declamation — Conservatorio deMu- sica y Dedamacion (private). Fifth of May Library — Biblioteca del Ciiico de Mayo. Open to the public daily until 9 P. M. This name was given to the library in memory of the battle won by the Mexicans over the French (see page 14). French Club — Girculo Frances (private). Geographical and Statistical Society — Sociedad de Oeographia y Estatistica (private). German Clxxb—Circulo Aleman (private). Gregorian Society — Sociedad Oregoriana (private). Lawyers' Society — Sociedad de las Abogados (private). Masons' Lodge, Scotch Eite — Sociedad Masonica. National Academy of Science and Literature — Academia JSfacional de Ciencias y Literatura (private). Open to the public in November and December, from 8 A. M. to 6 p. M. National Library — Biblioteca Na- cional. Open to the public every day from 7 A. M. to 9 p. m. This library contains ninety-five thou- sand volumes. National Museum — Mu seo Nacional. Open to the public on Tuesday, Thursday, and Sunday, from 9 A. M. to 12 p. m., and from 3 P. M. to 5 P. M. The yard contains several Astec divinities, and the so-called stone of sacrifice, which is a monument attributed to Tisoc, 7th King of Mexico, in memory of a victory. The other antiquities are not class- ed ; but if amateurs asks the di- rector, he will show them the whole collection, which is really worth seeing ; but visitors must have an interpreter, if they do not under- stand Spanish. The other part of the museum does not interest Europeans. Philarmonic Society — Sociedad Filarmonica (private). Saragoza Society — Sociedad Sa- ragoza (private). Seminary Society — S ociedad Seminarista (private). Spanish Society — Sociedad Es- panol (private). Workmen's Club — Oirculo de los Obreros (private). University — Universidad. -Mexi- can National Public Eite (^1553). Newspapers, the principal — Los periodicos principales. Diairo Oficial (El), (official governmental paper.) Federalista (El), (supports the government.) Monitor Eepublicano (El), (op- position.) Minero (El), (mining interests. )- Eevista (La), (supports the government.) Trait-d' Union (Le), French news paper.) Two Eepublics (The), (estab- lished in 1867) ; its policy has been to promote good relations between foreigners and natives, and as a specialty, to develop closer com- mercial relations betwen Mexico and the U. S. It has constantly supported the government, and has strongly opposed revolution. PALACES. 79 The editor, Major Geo. W. Clarke, an ex-confederate officer, assisted "by liis son, J. Mastella Clarke, merit the encouragement of all those who take an interest in the welfare of Mexico, and of those who wish to see the two countries develop their commercial connec- tions. PALACES — Pa lacios. AoxJii episcopal Palace, the — El Palacio ArhoMspal. — This building was erected in 1533, and served as a residence for the Archbishops, it belonging to the Church until the confiscation of the Church proper- ty by the government. The pal- ace is actually occupied by dif- ferent governmental departments, and the Archbishop inhabits a private residence in the rear of the once Inquisition building, calle de la Perpetua. Municipal Palace the — El Pal- acio Municipal, or the Consistorial building, is in front of the Cathe- dral. It was completed in 1564, under Viceroy Count Galvez, On the 8th of June, 1692, the Indians, suffering from hunger, set it on fire, because they accused the Viceroy of monopolizing the pro- visions of corn, but the archives were saved. In this building was established the first Mex- ican mint, called La Fundi- cion (the minting house). It now contains the municipality offices, and those of the district gov- ernment. In the assembly room, called La Sala de Cahildo, are the portraits of the Viceroys and Presidents of Mexico. It is open from 4 to 5 p. m. National Palace the — El Palacio JSfacional, occupies the whole of the Eastern side of the plaza Mayor ; it measures two thousand eight hundred and sixty-seven feet of a monotonous architecture. On the same spot stood a palace belonging to Moctezuma, called cam 7iueva (new house), so immense that one single room could con- tain three thousand persons. Af- ter the destruction of Mexico city by Cortes, this site was given to him by Charles V., by an act dated 6th July, 1529, but he had long before that taken possession and built on it a new j)alace, which occupied about two-thirds of the actual frontage. Martin Cortes, his legitimate son, sold the building to Philip II. for $83,300, by a contract made in Madrid, in date of 29th January, 1562. The building was set on fire twice ; the first time by the people taking the part of Archbishop Serna against Viceroy Galvez, who were strug- gling for the power ; and the sec- ond time by the Indians on the 8th June, 1692, at the same time as the Municipal palace was burned, and for the same reasons. It was then rebuilt on a larger scale, and embraced the whole actual front- age, and cost $781,607 50. The rear and remainder of the block was then occupied by the Mint. The actual palace contains the president's official apartments and offices, those of the ministers, the military commanders' head-quar- ters, the treasury and the archives 80 PA TEN TS—P OST-OFFIGE. of the nation. In one of its rooms in golden letters were the names of the heroes of the Independence, and in a frame, that of Iturbide, his stick and sword, but the room was destroyed. Palace of Congress, the — El Palacio del Gongreso on the plaza del Factor, was inaugurated with a masked hall on the 3d February, 1856, as a theatre {teatro Iturbide), but is now entirely devoted to the sittings of Congress. Palace of Justice, the — El Pala- cio de Justicia, calle de Cordovanes, once the convent of La Ensenanza. Now it contains the judges of the civil courts, the public notaries, the supreme court of justice, the superior tribunal of the District, the judges of commerce, and of first instance, and the mortgagee offices. Palace of Inquisition, El Pal- acio de la Inquisicion, at the corner of the calle de la Perpetua and Plazuela de San Domingo; is now the College of Medicine. It has had several prominent men as teachers, and has produced some eminent scholars. The first Inquisition tribunal in Mexico dates from the 4th Nov. 1571, and disappeared on the 31st May, 1820 ; its last victim having been General Jose M. Morelos, burnt on the 27th Nov., 1815. TAT'E'NTS—Privilcgio de Invenciones. The law on patents in the Mex- ican Republic dates from the 7th May, 1832, but there is a serious project of modifying it to meet the wants of the present genertiona. The formalities to obtain the pro- tection for an invention in Mexico are so complicated that it requires the assistance of a lawyer (aboga- do), there being no special patent agent (cost, about $40). There are three kinds of patents : 1st. Patente de Invencion, for ten years. 2d. Patente de Mejora, or perfeccionada, for six years. 3d. Patente de Introduccion, the term at the discretion of Congress. A demand for a patent has to be published three times in the news- papers, and it is only two months after the first one, that the patent can be delivered, so as to give time for claims or oppositions to be made. The government has not to determine whether an invention or improvement, or introduction is useful or not, but only to ascertain if it be not contrary to public se- curity and health, to good order, to the laws of the country, or to local decrees or rules. It can be granted for one or several States, or for the whole country. When a patent for an improve- ment is granted to a second party, the original inventor retains all his personal rights and claims. Wlien patents for inventions or improvements have been obtained under false pretenses, or if they be asked for as inventions or im- provements, whilst they are only introductions, they are null and void. POST-OFFICE — El Correo. Letters must not be stamped by one's self, but taken to the post- POST-OFFICE. 81 office, calle de la Moneda from 8 A. M. to 9 p. M. Letters addressed to " post office," are advertised in tlie yard of the post-office with num- bers, which, serve to claim them. Newspapers must also be claimed. Letters for the United States, Havana and Europe must be post- ed two days before the steamer leaves Vera Cruz. The charge for a letter is accord- ing to its weight and the distance of its destination. The tariff which interests for- eigners is : From. Mexico to Vera Cruz and the United States of America, under i oz $0.25 From Mexico to Vera Cruz, from } to f oz 0.38 From Mexico to Vera Craz, from ftol oz 0.50 From Mexico to Vera Cruz, from 1 to U oz 0.63 Add $0.13 for every J ounce. From Mexico via England, via France. to Europe under ioz. $0.35 $0.25 From Mexico to Europe i tofoz 0.53 0.38 From Mexico to Europe f- tolz 0.70 0.50 From Mexico to Europe Itolioz... 0.88 0.63 From Mexico to United States of America, same tariff" as for Vera Cruz, but the American post-ofhce fee is to be paid on delivery. Pronunciamientos, like the vomi- to negro, are really not what they are reputed to be ; and the re- ports about the number of their victims cannot be better compared, than to the bulletins issued by the Spanish Government and the Car- lists during the late civil war. " Bon cMen cJiasse de race" says a French proverb. In a word, the same blood runs in the veins of both the Spaniards and Mexicans. We have witnessed one pronunci- amiento, and instead of being awe- struck at the sight of a civil war, (since then we have seen the Com- mune), we were highly amused. The politeness of the extreme par- ties one towards another, surpasses even that of the French at the battle of Fontenoy : " Tirez vous- meme s'il wus plait." The re- ply of Count de Hauteroche to Lord Charles Hay, is nothing com- pared to the " Cuidado" (look- out), of a Mexican officer shouting from a steeple to his comrade, become his enemy and encamped with his men on the azotea (roof) of a neighboring convent. But the best of the farce came off in the morning, when the chocolate bell rang. Liberals and clericals all met at the tienda to desayuno (breakfast), where the chief, who was out of ammunition, paid for his enemies' chocolate, in exchange for a few cartridges. In fact, why should the poor devils take a serious view of revolutions ? Do they not know that their chief was only fighting for power, and trying to do what his predecessor had done, if he were a Liberal; or to gain his bribery money, if he was in the other camp ? Since the intervention, pronunciamientos are less frequent but more bloody. At the present moment the whole country is covered with them; but as the chiefs pretend to oppose the re-election of Lerdo de Tejada, the revolution cannot last long. 82 TBAMWA YS— SCHOOLS— COLLEGES. Tramways — Ferrocarriles. From Mexico, Plaza Mayor, in front of the municipal palace Mexico, Plaza Mayor, in'Mixcoac Iroiit of the municipal Snn Angel palace Tlalpam To Cliapaltepec and Tacubaya Mexico, Plaza Mayor, in front of the municipal palace Belen Mea-ico on the "West side of.Buena Vista, San Cosme the Cathedral Mexico, on the West side of the Cathedral La Tlaxpaua Popotla Taciiba San Cosme Deravillo Guadalupe Hidalgo Mexico, on the Plaza Mayor, La Viga in front of the Arcades I Mexico, Calle San Balva-Tacuba, Atzcapazalco nera. iThhiepautla Hours. Every 20 minutes, 5)4 A. M. to 8 P. M. up and down.^ Every hour and 20 minutes from 6 A. M. to 7:20 p. m. except at 1 p. m. up and down. From 6 to 1)4 every }i( 7-9-11 A. M., 2-4-f) p. M. returiiinijf same hour and 15 minutes, price, 6c. Every quarter of an hour. From f))4 a. m. to 6)4 P. ar. up and dowii. Every ^ of an hour from 6M to 7 p. M., 8:10-9: 0- 10: 10 every K of '<^^ hour from 6M to 7 p. m. Every }4 hour from 6)4 A. >r. to 7 p. M. leturn at the )i hour. 6:30-7:45-10 A. m. 1-2:15-4:80 p. m., return 7:45 -9-11:15 A. M., 2:15-3:30 5:45 p. M. SCHOOLS, COLLEGES— ^SCWe?rtS, Col- Academy of Saint Charles— Academia de San Carlos (free, 1781). Artistico-Industrial School — Escuela Arlistica Industrial (Cree). Catholic School— Escuela Catolica. College of Jurisprudence— Co/eg'zo de Jvrispmdencia. College of Medicine— Co?e9'^0(^6 Medi- cina (free). College of 'Mines—Colegio de Minus (free). College of Young Girls — Colegio de JVinas. Cosmopolitan School— ^^cv/e/a C'osmo- polita. Lancasterian Schools— 12 {\%'2!2)-Escve- las Lancasteriano (free). There are elev- en branches, all of which are supported by the Lancasterian Society, composed of Mexicans. Lyceum Hidalgo— iyt'fo Hidalgo. Military Col\e'^ii—Co!egio Militar (free). Municipal ^chool'g^—Escuelas Municip- ales (free). Their number in Mexico is 53, for boys and girls. Preparatory School— Escuela Prepara- toria (free). School of Agriculture— ^'cwe^a de Agri- cultura (free). School of Arts and Tv&dies— Escuela de Artes y Officios (free). School of Commerce— ^scwe^a de Com- ercio (free). School for the Deaf andDnmh— Escuela de Sordo Mudos (tree). (1) First and second class tickets give right to a swinimiuii bath at Chapultepoc. Prices : §0.25 and $0.12)4. SQUARES AND MARKETS. 83 School for the Blind— ^-^c^^^^a de Ciegos. School of Fine Arts — Escuela de Bellas Artes. School of the Tecpan — Escuela del Tecpan (free). This is a school for vaga- bonds ; they are taught a trade. Seminary School— ^sa^e^a Seminarista (free). Supported by the clergy. J]m\ev^\ty—Urdversidad (opened 1553). As in France, several colleges grant "Bourses ;" they are called here " Becas de Grada." The scholars who are favored with them are boarded and ediicated gratis. Number of schools in Mexico city : 234 attended by 13,- 000 scholars. BQUAHES AND MABKETS — PlazaS y 3£ercados. Ouardiola, small square of, Pla- zuela de Ouardiola. — This small square is situated beyond the Ho- tel Iturbide. At one of its corners and that of Calle de San Juan de Latran, stood the convent and church of San Francisco. They measured 375 feet by 280, and con- tained eleven chapels. The con- vent was built in 1524, for Fray de Valencia and twelve other Fran- ciscan monks ; the church in 1716. In front is a curious porcelain wall house, and in another house are the offices of the Mexico-Vera Cruz Eailway Company and its telegraph. The Album of Mexico and its Environs shows this square with the statue of Morelos ; but it has been removed to the square of the same name. Many queer tales are told about the Plazuela de Ouardiola, but the only authen- tic one is the execution of a cer- tain Palacios, in 1828, for having killed a Count del Valle, a de- scendant of H. Cortes, in the por- celain house. Guerrero Market — Mercado de Guerrero. — It was named from Vicente Gruerrero, one of the he- roes of the Independence. Iturbide Market — Mercado de Iturbide. — It received its name in honor of the Emperor. It was built in 1849. Jesus Market — Mercado de Jesus. Mercy Market — Mercado de la Merced. Parade Square — Plaza de Armas or Mayor, or Constitucion. — This square is surrounded by important monuments : On the eastern side is the long, monotonous national palace, in the face of which run the arcades of Los Mercadores (merchants), under which are, pro- tected from the sun and rain, a variety of shops and ambulatory stalls, from the candied fruit-tray to the filigree jewel-case, side by side with the cigarette-maker and the lottery ticket hawker. At a right angle is the municipal pa_- ace, and then follow the arcades of Flores (flowers). Formerly there was a canal which passed by them, on which the peasants from Meri- calcingo brought their flowers for sale. The square is completed by the Cathedral and the Sagrario. It has the same size as the Fian- guits square of the Astecs, laid out in 1325. An old print, which we have under our eyes, shows this square quite different to what it is now, and even to what it was when Maximilian came to Mexico. The plaza Mayor was divided into two sections of an entirely different na- ture : On the space facing the na- 84 SQUARES AND MARKETS. tional palace was a circular enclo- sure, Qdlledi plaza de Armas, made in 1794, and surrounded by stone seats and a balustrade, tbe en- trance of wbicb was closed by four wrought-iron gates, which were transferred in 1824, to the Alame- da, where they are still. In the middle of the space stood the equestrian statue of Carlos IV. When Iturbide was crowned Em- peror (1822), a provisory bull-ring was built in that arena ; and the King's statue, covered with browfi paper, stood a spectator to the feast celebrated in honor of the overthrow of the Spanish domin- ion ! The same people who had wel- comed Carlos IV' s. statue twenty years before, now acclaimed the vic- tor of his descendant. Did they cover the statue for decency's sake, or to shun the reproach of their conscience ? Quien sabe ! The other half of the square was occu- pied by a building called Parian,^ a sort of quadrangular " Petticoat Lane market ; " a quantity of wooden shops ; the gallows and the Picota, a column, on the top of which the heads of those who had been executed, were exhibited. It was burnt by the students of the University, on the 27th March, 1636, but was re-edified. All but the Parian disappeared at the end of last century, and this latter nuisance itself was destroyed on the 31st August, 1843, by Santa Anna, to make room for the cele- bration of the victory of Tampico, over the Spaniards, in 1829. The It was rented 1o J. de Medina, on the I April, 1757, for 9 years. ceremony took place on the 11th September. After this feast, the square was naked ; but Maximilian caused the actual garden to be planted. It is called Zoccdo (socle), because the central part is made on the basis of a column of Independence, projected by Santa Anna. Saint Catherine Market — Merca- do de Santa Catarina. Saint Dominic Square — Plazuela de San Domingo is near to the Plazo Mayor. — In its centre is a fountain, surmounted with the arms of the country (see page 70), To the north stands the church which gave its name to the sjjot. The eastern part is formed by the custom-house and the old Inquisi- tion palace ; to the west is a long building with arcades. The south side is composed of houses. It was there that, on the 8th July, 1867, M. S. Vidaurri was shot. The markets are worthy of a visit, especially the uncovered ones, for their aspect is picturesque to the extreme ; there, is the Indio- Mexican life in all its originality, and as it must have been since the beginning. For our part, we cannot see the slightest change since our first visit to this country 20 years ago. No pen could re- trace the contrasts that exists between the delicious fruits, the bright colored flowers, and the dark, dirty, repulsive looks of the sellers. It would require the pencil of a Callot or a Salvator Rosa, and the coloring of a Diaz, to give a faint idea of the wretch- edness of the ones, and the biil- liancy of the others. STATUES. 85 STATUES. Statue of Charles IV., of Spain — Estatua de Carlos IV. — situated at tlie junction of tlie paseo of la Ala- meda and the road to Chapultepec. It is the work of Manuel Tolsa, and was cast in one jet on the 4th of August, 1802. The relievo faces were destroyed by fire two days before. The weight of the statue in bronze is 22,000 English pounds. It was first erected on the Plaza Mayor (see page 84) on the 29th of November, 1803, and inaugu- rated ten days after. There it re- mained until 1824 ; it was then taken to the University, from whence it was transferred in 1852, under the care of Vicente E, Manero, to where it now stands. Baron Humboldt says that " the statue of Marc Aurelius is the only one superior to it." Statue of Cuantemotzin — Estat- ua de Cuantemotzin. This bust of the Astec hero stands on the paseo of la Viga (see page 68). The fol- lowing Astec inscription will com- plete our description of page 42 : Sa igniti o Trato'catix Aztecaltl Cuante- motzin, Chicagtlapiani Tlalanahuac Yol Tlapaltic Ipam in Maltiloni— Tlanahuatil Altepepix- que in 1869. TRANSLATION : To the last Astec monarcli, CUANTEMOTZIN, Heroic in the defense of the Country, Sublime in his Martjndom. The Constitutional Municipality of 1869. Statue of Guerrero (General Vi- cente) — Estatua del Oeneral Guer- rero — in the middle of the square of Saint Fernand, called El jardin de San Fernando, facing the Alameda (north). It is of bronze, and was made by the scholars of the muse- um of San Carlos, and inaugurated in 1869. Statue of Liberty — Estatua de la Libertad — of white marble, placed on a pedestal, also of marble, in the middle of the principal foun- tain of the Paseo de Bucareli. The shield in the left hand of the figure bears the following inscription : Independencia, lUh September, 1810. Statue of Morelos — Estatua de Moretos — the father of the Mexican Independence. This statue was formerly on the Plazuela de Guardiola (see page 83), but it was transferred where it now stands, i. e., on the plazuela de Morelos, close to the walls of the hospital of the same name, and on the northern side of the Alameda. RAILWAY FROM MEXICO TO TOLUCA AND TLALNEPANTLA. From Mexico. From Tl ihiepantla. 61- A. M. 2i P. M. 7f A.M. U p. M. 6 9 " m " 5 " Hi " 4i " m " 5f " 86 BAIL WAYS. YEPtA CRUZ AXD JALAPA TPtAMWAY. Miles. Up Train. 5. A.M. 9X 5.30 " lli>^ 6. 6.10 " 20>^ 6.40 " 29 8.10 " 9.10 " 40M 10. 11. 48)5^ 12. 55 1.30 P.M 62 3. " lOK 4. Stations. Down Train. Prices. 1st CI. 2d CI. leave.. arrive . . leave... arrive . . leave . . arrive . Vera Cruz . . arrive 3.45 P.M. 3.15 " 2.45 " 2.30 " 2. 12.45 " 11.45 " 11. 10. 9. 8. 6.' A.M. . . . . San Ju'in . . .leave ..Tierra Colorada.. ..Paso de Ovejas.. .Puenre Nacional.. Einconada. . . . .. Plan del Rio.. . . .arrive ...leave . . ariive Cfrro Goi'do. . . . u u Jalapa .. .leave .$ 6 .50 .$ 4 00 VERA CRUZ AND MEXICO CITY RAILWAY. Miles. 20} 27i 38 42 47f 57^ 69f 77 86^ 102i- 113 124} 137 1.56 168f ISH 192i 19:i 2091 216 2-24 237i- 2.5:!f 268} Up Trains arrive. Do-\vn Trains leave 8.15 p.m. Mexico leave 5.00a. m, 7.20 " Tepexpam 5 45 " 7.00 " S. Jnan Teotihuacan 6.05 " 6.45 " Otnmba 6.30 " 6.35 " La Palma 6.45 " 6.20 " Ometusco 7.00 " 6.00 " Irolo 7.20 " 535 " Apam 7..50 " 5.00 " Soltepec.. 8.20 " 4 25 " Gnadalnpe (hacienda). 8.45 " 4.00 " Apizaco 9.20 " 3.05 " Huatnantla 10.10 " 2 35 " San Marcos 10.35 " 2.05 " Rinconada 11.05 " 1 35 " San Ardres 11.40 " 12..o5 p. M. Boca del Monte r'..55 P. m. 10.45 " Maltrata 2.3) " 9.50 " Orizaba 3 30 " 9.00 " For'in 4.10 " 8.35 " Cordoba 4.30 " 7.35 " Atovac 5.20 " 7.115 " Pa.sb del Macho 6.00 " 6.30 " Camaron 6.25 " 5.35 " Solrdad 7.00 " 4.35 " Tejoria 7."5 " 4.00 a.m. leave Vera Cruz arrive 8-30 " Miles. 1 cl. 3 cl. $ ^ 263} 243 236 229 225} 221} 215} 2()5f 198} 186} 1761 4.50 3.75 161 1.50} 139 126} 107} 94} 82 70f 65f 53} 47} 39} 26 9} 16.00 12.. 50 2.31 .25 BRANCH LINE FROM APIZACO TO PUEBLA. Prices. Miles. Up Trains. Down Trains. Icl. 0<]. 3cl. $ $ s 8.30 A. M. 3.30 arrive Apizaco leave 9.30 A. M. 4.05 p.m. 10} 7.45 " 2.45 " Santa Ana " 10.15 " 4.40 " 22 7.00 " 2.00 " Panzacula " 11.00 " 5.10 " 29} 6.30 " 1..30 P.M. leave Puebla arrive 11.30 " 5.40 " 1.52 1.27' 0.78 STEAMEUS. 87 STEAMEES — Vapores. The Royal Mail Steam Packet Company leaves Southampton for Vera Cruz, via St. Thomas and Ha- vana, on the 2d of each month, and is due on the 28th. It leaves Vera Cruz on the 2d of each month, and is due at Plymouth on the 28th, Cherbourg 29th, Southampton 30th. Prices : 1st cab. £54.10 ; 2d cab. £45 ; 3d cab. £38.10. Return tickets 25^ abatement. 2d class £25, no return tickets ; 3d class £15, no return tickets. Baggage : Cabin passengers. 20 cubic feet ; 3d class, 15 cubic feet. Extra 3s. per foot. WEST INDIA AND PACIFIC STEAM- SHIP COMPANY. Leaves Liverpool for Vera Cruz, via Jamaica, on the 10th and 26th of each month — is due on the 9th and 2oth of the following month — leaves Vera Cruz, via New Or- leans, on the 3d and 13th of each month, and is due at Liverpool 30 days afterwards. Terms, from Liverpool to Vera Cruz, cabin £35, or $175 gold ; from Vera Cruz to New Orleans $60 gold. PACIFIC STEAMEES— (ifam Line). The P. M. S. Ships arrive and depart (approximately) at Acapul- co, each month, as follows : Sail from Sail from New York 1, 15 I San Francisco 15, 20 Panama 11, 26 Acapulco 22, 6 or 7 Acapulco 17, 2 1 Panama 29, 13 or 14 Arrive at Arrive at San Francisco 25, 10 1 NewYork 10, 24 or 25 GBNEEAL TEANSATLANTIC COM- PANY. LINE TKOM SAINT NAZAIRB TO VERA CRUZ. OFFICES. Paris, Grand Hotel ; Mexico, Messrs. Martin, Daran & Co. ; Ha- vana, Messrs. Durinthy Chiatriati & Co. ; Vera Cruz, Messrs. Torre, Fischer & Co. Saint Nazaire.. Santander Saint Pierre... Fort de France Pointe a Pitre . Saint Thomas. La Havane La Vera Cruz . . La Vera Cruz . , La Havane Saint Thomas. Pointe a Pitre . Fort de France Saint Pierre... Santander Saint Nazaire. . Anive 21 5 5 6 8 12 16 21 26 27 28 29 12 14 Leave 20 21 5 13 Saint Nazaire Santander 20th and 21st of each month. {and vice versa) Martinique La Guavra Pnerto-Cabello Carupano (return) . Guadeloupe Saint Thomas La Havane La Vera Cruz 1st Cab. 2