THE MARITIME PROVINCES; HANDBOOK FOR TRATELIEES. A GUIDE TO THE CHIEF CITIES, COASTS, AND ISLANDS OF THE MARITIME PROV- INCES OF CANADA, AND TO THEIR SCENERY AND HISTORIC ATTRACTIONS ; WITH THE GULF AND RIVER OF ST. LAWRENCE TO QUEBEC AND MONTREAL ; ALSO, NEWFOUNDLANT) AND THE LABRADOR COAST. WitU Four Maps and Four Plans, BOSTOI^: JAMES R. OSGOOD AND COMPANY, Late Ticknor & Fields, and Fields, Osgood, & Co. 1875. 3? Copyright, 1875. lY JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO. > X (K U^ University Press : Welch, Bigelow, & Co., Cambridge. PEEFACE, The chief object of the Handbook to the Maritime Provinces is to supply the place of a guide in a land where professional ndes cannot be found, and to assist the traveller in gaining liie greatest possible amount of pleasure and information while passing through the most interesting portions of Eastern British America. The St. Lawrence Provinces have been hitherto casu- ally treated in books which cover w*ider sections of country (the best of which have long been out of print), and the Atlantic Provinces have as yet received but little attention of this kind. The present guide-book is the first which has been devoted to their treatment in a combined form and according to the most approved princij)les of the European works of similar purpose and character. It also includes descriptions of the remote and interesting coasts of Newfoundland and Labrador, which have never before been mentioned in works of this character. The Handbook is designed to enable travellers to visit any or all of the notable places in the Maritime Provinces, with economy of money, time, and temper, by giving lists of the hotels with their prices, descriptions of the various routes by land and water, and maps and plans of the principal cities. The letter-press contains epitomes of the histories of the cities and the ancient settlements along the coast, statements of the principal scenic attractions, descriptions of the art and architecture of the cities, and statistics of the chief industries of the included Provinces. The brilliant and picturesque records and traditions of the early French and Scottish colonies, and the heroic exploits of the Jesuit missionaries, have received special attention in connection with the localities made famous in those remote days ; and the remarkable legends and mythology of the Micmac Indians are iv PREFACE. incorporated with tlie accounts of tlie places made classic by them. The naval and military operations of the wars which centred on Port Royal, Louisboiirg, and Quebec have been con- densed from the best authorities, and the mournful events Avhich are commemorated in " Evangeline " are herein analyzed and recorded. The noble coast-scenery and the favorite summer- voyages with which the northern seas abound have been de- scribed at length in these pages. The plan and structure of the book, its system of treatment and forms of abbreviation, have been derived from the European Handbooks of Karl Baedeker. The typography, binding, and system of city plans also resemble those of Baedeker, and hence the grand desiderata of compactness and portability, which have made his works the most popular in Europe, have also been attained in the present volume. Nearly all the facts concerning the routes, hotels, and scenic attractions have been framed or verified from the Editor's personal experience, after many months of almost incessant travelling for this express purpose. But infallibility is impossible in a work of this nature, especial- ly amid the rapid changes which are ever going on in America, and hence the Editor would be grateful for any bona fide cor- rections or suggestions with which either travellers or residents may favor him. The maps and plans of cities have been prepared with the greatest care, and will doubtless prove of material service to all who may trust to their directions. They are based on the system of lettered and numbered squares, with figures corresponding to similar figures, attached to lists of the chief public buildings, hotels, churches, and notable objects. The hotels indicated by asterisks are those which are believed by the Editor to be the most comfortable and elegant. ]\r. F. -SWEETSER, Editor of Osgood's American HandhooTcs, ISl Franklin St., Boston. CONTENTS. PAGE . 1 I. Plan of Tour II. Newfoundland and Labrador III. Money and Travelling Expenses •* IV. Railways and Steamboats V. Round-Trip Excursions ^ VT. Hotels ' VII. Language VIII. Climate and Dress ^ IX. Fishing . . . • 8 X. Miscellaneous Notes ^ NEW BRUNSWICK. ROUTE ,o General Notes ■^'* 1. St. John ^^ 2. The Environs of St. John 22 1. Lily Lake. Marsh Road 22 2. Mispeck Road. Suspension Bridge 23 3. Carleton 24 3. St. John to Eastport and St. Stephen. Passamaquoddy Bat . 25 1. Eastport 26 4. Grand Manan 28 5. St. John to St. Andrews and St. Stephen. Passamaquoddy Bay 30 1. St. George. Lake Utopia 32 2. St. Andrews. Chamcook Mountain 33 3. St. Stephen. Schoodic Lakes 35 6. St. Andrews and St. Stephen to Woodstock and Houlton . 36 7. St. John to Bangor 37 8. St. John to Fredericton. The St. John River .... 39 1. Kennebecasis Bay ^^ 2. Belleisle Bay 42 3. Fredericton ■** 4. Fredericton to Miramichi 46 9. Washademoak Lake 47 10. Grand Lake 48 11. Fredericton to Woodstock 49 12. Fredericton to Woodstock, by the St. John River ... 51 13. Woodstock to Grand Falls and Riviere du Loup . . . .53 COXTEXTS. EOITE PAGE 1. Tolnque to Bathurst 54 2. The St John to the Restigouohe 66 a The Madawaska District 57 4. The Maine W\xxis, Temisoouata Liike 5S 14. St. Johx to She^h.vc 50 15. The Bay of Chalei-k ant the North Shore of Xew Bruxswick GO 1. Chatham to Shippigan 01 '2. Shippigtui. RiY of Chaloiir 04 5. Rithui-st to Cai-aquette GG 4. Canipbellton to St. Fhivie Oi^ 16. St. John to Amheikst and Halifax TO 1. Quaoa Sussex Yale 71 2. AU^ert County. Monoton to Quebec 72 5. Porchostor. SackviUe 73 NOVA SCOTIA. Genonil Xotes 75 17. St. John to Amherst and Halifax 7S 1. Tantramar Mai-sh. Chigneoto Feniusula 79 2. North Shore of Nova Scotia SI IS. St. John to Halifax, by the Anxapolis Valley' ... S3 1. Annapolis Royal S5 2. The Annapolis Valley SS S. Kentville to Chester iHi 19. HALIF.A.X 93 20. The Environs of Halifax 100 1. Bedfoixi Basin. Point Tleasant 100 21. The Basin of Minas. Halifax to St. Johx 101 1. Advocate Harbor and Cape d"Or 103 2. The Risin of Minas IW 22. The Land of Evangeline 107 23. Annapolis Royal to Clare ani> Yarmoith 112 1. The Clai-e Settlements 113 2. The Tnsket Lakes and Archipelago -.115 24. PiGBY Neck 116 25. Halifax to Yarmouth. The Atlantic Coast of Nova Scotia . 117 1. Cai>e Sjimbiw Lunenbui-g US 2. Liverpool . . lilO S. Shelburne l.n 4. Cape Siible l'J3 26. Halifax to YARiiovTH, by the Shore Route .... IJO 1. Chester. Mahone Riy 1J7 2. Chester to Liverpool 12S 27. The Liverpool Lakes 129 2S. Halifax to Tangier 131 29. The Northeast Coast of Nova Scotia 133 SO. Saeue Island 134 CONTENTS. vii koute page 31. St. John and Halifax to Pictou 136 32. St. John and Halifax to the Strait of Canso and Cape Breton 138 CAPE BRETON. General Notes 141 33. The Strait of Canso 142 34. Arichat and Isle Madame 145 35. The Strait of Canso to Sydney, Cape Breton . . . . 146 36. Halifax to Sydney, Cape Breton 148 37. The East Coast of Cape Breton. The Sydney Coal-Fields . 152 38. The Fortress of Louisbourg 154 39. The North Shore of Cape Breton 158 1. St. Anne's Bay . . . . • 158 2. St. Paul's Island 160 40. The Bras d'Or Lakes 161 1. Baddeck 162 2. Great Bras d'Or Lake 164 3. The Bras d'Or to Halifax 166 41. Baddeck to Mabou and Port Hood 167 1. St. Patrick's Channel. Whycocomagh 167 42. The West Coast of Cape Breton 168 1. Port Hood. Mabou 169 2. Margaree. The Lord's Day Gale 170 PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND. General Notes 172 43. Shediac to Summerside and Charlottetown .... 174 1. The Northumberland Strait 174 44. Pictou to Prince Edward Island 175 45. Charlottetown 175 1. Environs of Charlottetown 177 46. Charlottetown to Summerside and Tignish. The Western Shores of Prince Edward Island 177 1. Rustico. Summerside - . 178 47. Charlottetown to Georgetown . 180 48. Charlottetown to Sotris 182 49. The Magdalen Islands . . 183 50. St. Pierre and Miquelon 185 NEWFOUNDLAND. General Notes 187 51. Halifax to St. John's, Newfoundland 188 52. St. John's, Newfoundland 189 53. The Environs of St. John's 195 1. Portugal Cove. Logie Bay. Torbay 195 54. The Strait Shore of Avalon. St. John's to Cape Race . . 196 vili CONTENTS. ROUTE PAGE 1. The Grand Banks of Newfoundland 199 55. St. John's to Labrador. The Northern Coast of Newfoundland 200 1. Bonavista Bay 203 2. Twillingate. Exploits Island 205 56. St. John's to Conception Bay 206 57. Trinity Bay . 208 58. The Bay of Notre Dame 210 59. Placentia Bay 212 60. The Western Outports. St. John's to Cape Ray .... 213 1. Fortune Bay 214 2. Hermitage Bay 215 61. The French Shore. Cape Ray to Cape St. John . . . 216 1. The Interior of Newfoundland , . 218 2. The Strait of Belle Isle 220 LABRADOR. General Notes 223 62. The Atlantic Coast, to the Moravian Missions and Greenland 224 1. The Moravian Missions . 226 63. The Labrador Coast of the Strait of Belle Isle ... 227 64. The Labrador Coast of the Gulf of St. Lawrence . . . 229 1. The Mingan Islands 231 2. The Seven Islands 232 65. Anticosti 234 PROVINCE OF QUEBEC. General Notes 235 66. Pictou to Quebec. The Coasts of Gaspe 238 1. Paspebiac 240 2. Perce 242 3. Gaspe 244 67. The Lower St. Lawrence 246 1. Father Point. Rimouski 250 2. Bic. Trois Pistoles 251 3. St. Anne de la Pocatiere. L'Islet 253 68. Quebec 255 1. Durham Terrace 259 2. Jesuits' College. Basilica • . . 261 3. Seminary 262 4. Laval University. Parliament Building 263 5. Hotel Dieu. Around the Ramparts 266 6. The Lower Town 271 69. The Environs of Quebec 276 1. Beauport. Montmorenci Falls 276 2. Indian Lorette 278 3. Chateau Bigot. Sillery . .280 4. Point Levi. Chaudiere Falls 282 CONTENTS. ix eotjte - page 70. Quebec to La Bonne Ste. Anne 283 1. The Falls of St. Anne 283 71. The Isle of Orleans . . . 288 72. Quebec to Cacouna and the Saguenay River .... 291 1. St. Paul's Bay 292 2. Murray Bay 294 3. Cacouna . . . 296 73. The Saguenay River . . " 297 1. Tadousac 299 2. Chicoutimi 300 3. Ha Ha Bay. Lake St. John 301 4. Eternity Bay. Cape Trinity 303 74. Quebec to Montreal. The St. Lawrence River .... 305 75. Montreal 309 1. Victoria Square. Notre Dauie 311 2. The GesiL St. Patrick's Church 313 3. Cathedral. McGill University. Great Seminary .... 314 4. Hotel Dieu. Mount Royal. Victoria Bridge .... 316 76. The Environs of Montreal 318 1. Around the Mountain. Sault au Recollet 318 2. Lachine Rapids. Caughnawaga ^ .319 3. Beloeil Mt. St. Anne 320 Index to Localities 321 Index to Historical and Biographical Allusions .... 332 Index to Quotations 333 Index to Railways and Steamboats 834 List of Authorities Consulted 334 MAPS. - •' 1. Map of the Makitime Provinces : before title-page. t 2. Map of Newfoundland and Labrador : after the index. -^ 3. Map of the Acadian Land : between pages 106 and 107. '^ *) ->/ 4. Map of the Saguenay River : between pages 296 and 297. \ ^^ 5. Map of the Lower St. Lawrence River : between pages 296 and 297. PLANS OF CITIES. -. 1. St. John : between pages 14 and 15. 2. Halifax : between pages 92 and 93. 3. Quebec : between pages 254 and 255. 4. Montreal : between pages 808 and 309. ABBREVIATIONS. N. — North, Northern, etc. S. — South, etc. E. — East, etc. W. — West, etc. N. B. — New Brunswick. N. S. — Nova Scotia. N. F. — Newfoundland. Lab. — Labrador. P. E. I. — Prince Edward Island. P. Q. — Province of Quebec. M. — mile or miles. r. — right. 1.— left. ft. — foot or feet. hr. — hour. min. —minute or minutes. Asterisks denote objects deserving of special attention. INTRODUCTIOK I. Plan of Tour. The most profitable course for a tourist in the Lower Provinces is to keep moving, and his route should be made to include as many as pos- sible of the points of interest which are easily accessible. There are but few places in this region where the local attractions are of sufficient inter- est to justify a prolonged visit, or where the accommodations for stran- gers are adapted to make such a sojourn pleasant. The historic and scenic beauties are not concentrated on a few points, but extend through- out the country, affording rare opportunities for journeys whose general course may be replete with interest. The peculiar charms of the Mari- time Provinces are their history during the Acadian era and their noble coast scenery, — the former containing some of the most romantic episodes in the annals of America, and the latter exhibiting a marvellous blending of mountainous capes and picturesque islands with the blue northern sea. And these two traits are intertwined throughout, for there is scarce a promontory that has not ruins or legends of French fortresses, scarce a bay that has not heard the roaring broadsides of British frigates. The remarkable ethnological phenomena here presented are also cal- culated to awaken interest even in the lightest minds. The American tour- ist, accustomed to the homogepeousness of the cities and rural communi- ties of the Republic, may here see extensive districts inhabited by French- men or by Scottish Highlanders, preserving their national languages, cus- toms, and amusements unaffected by the presence and pressure of British influence and power. Of such are the districts of Clare and Madawaska and the entire island of Cape Breton. The people of the cities and the English settlements are quaintly ultra- Anglican (in the secular sense of the word), and follow London as closely as possible in all matters of cos- tume, idiom, and social manners. All these phases of provincial life and history afford subjects for study or amusement to the traveller, and may serve to make a summer voyage both interesting and profitable. Travelling has been greatly facilitated, within a few years, by the es- tablishment of railways and steamship routes throughout the Provinces. From the analyses of these lines, given in the following pages, the tourist 1 A 2 INTEODUCTION. will be able to compute the cost of his trip, both in money and in time. The following tour would include a glimpse at the chief attractions of the coimtry, and will serve to convey an idea of the time requisite : — Boston to St. John 1| days. St. John 1 St. John to Annapolis and Halifax .... 2 Halifax 1 Halifax to Sydney 1^ The Bras d'Or Lakes 1 Port Hawkesbury to Pictou, Charlottetown, and Shediac 2 Shediac to Quebec (by steamer) 4 Quebec 3 Quebec to Boston 1 Failures to connect 3 21 days. To this circular tour several side-trips may be added, at the discretion of the traveller. The most desirable among these are the routes to Pas- samaquoddy Bay, the St. John Eiver, the Basin of Minas (to Parrsboro'), from Halifax to Chester and Mahone Bay, Whycocomagh, or Louisbourg (in Cape Breton), and the Saguenay Eiver. Either of these side-trips will take from two to four days. If the tourist wishes to sojourn for several days or weeks in one place, the most eligible points for such a visit, outside of St. John and Halifax, are St. Andrews, Grand Manan, or Dalhousie, in New Brunswick ; An- napolis, Wolfville, Parrsboro', or Chester, in Nova Scotia ; Baddeck, in Cape Breton ; and, perhaps, Summerside, in Prince Edward Island. At each of these villages are small but comfortable inns, and the surround- ing scenery is attractive. II. Newfoundland and Labrador. Extended descriptions of these remote northern coasts have been given in the following pages for the use of the increasing number of travellers who yearly pass thitherward. The marine scenery of Newfoundland is the grandest on the North Atlantic coast, and here are all the varied phe- nomena of the northern seas, — icebergs, the aurora borealis, the herds of seals, the desolate and lofty shores, and the vast fishing-fleets from which France and the United States draw their best seamen. English and American yachtsmen grow more familiar every year with these coasts, and it is becoming more common for gentlemen of our Eastern cities to embark on fishing-schooners and make the voyage to Labrador or the Banks. The tourist can also reach the remotest settlements on the Labrador INTRODUCTION. 3 coast by the steamship lines from Halifax to St, John's, N. F., and thence to Battle Harbor, This route takes a long period of time, though the expense is comparatively light ; and the accommodations on the steam- ships beyond St. John's are quite inferior. A shorter circular tour may be made by taking the steamer from Halifax to St. John's, and at St. John's embarking on the Western Outports steamship, which coasts along the entire S. shore of the island, and runs down to Sydney, C, B., once a month. From Sydney the tourist can return to Halifax (or St. John, N. B.) by way of the Bras d'Or Lakes. The Western Outports steamship also visits the quaint French colony at St. Pierre and Miquelon fortnightly, and the traveller can stop off there and return directly to Halifax by the Anglo-French steamship, which leaves St. Pierre fort- nightly. Sea-Sickness. The chief benefit to be derived on these routes is the invigoration of the bracing air of the northern sea. Persons who are liable to sea-sickness should avoid the Newfoundland trip, since rough weather is frequently experienced there, and the stewai-ds are neither as numerous nor as dexterous as those on the transatlantic steamships. The Editor is tempted to insert here a bit of personal experience, showing how the results of early experiences, combined with the advice of veteran travellers, have furnished him with a code of rules which are useful against the mal du mer in all its forms. During 28 days on the Mediterranean Sea and 45 days on the Canadian waters, the observance of these simple rules prevented sickness, although every condition of weather was expe- rienced, from the fierce simoom of the Lybian Desert to the icy gales of Labrador. The chief rule, to which the others are but corollaries, is, Don't think of your physical self. Any one in perfect health, who will busy himself for an hour in thinking about the manner in which his breath is inhaled, or in which his eyes perform their functions, will soon feel ill at ease in his lungs or eyes, and can only regain tranquillity by banishing the disturbing thoughts. Avoid, therefore, this gloomy and apprehensive self-contemplation, and fill the mind with bright and en- grossing themes, — the conversation of merry companions, the exciting vicissitudes of card-playing, or the marvellous deeds of some hero of ro- mance. Never think of your throat and stomach, nor think of thinking or not thinking of them, but forget that such conveniences exist. Keep on deck as much as possible, warmly wrapped up, and inhaling the salty air of the sea. Don't stay in the lee of the fimnel, where the smell of oil is nauseating. And if you are still ill at ease, lie down in your state- room, with the port-hole slightly opened, and go to sleep. The tourist should purchase, before leaving Halifax, two or three lively novels, a flask of fine brandy, a bottle of pickled limes, and a dozen lemons. 4 INTRODUCTION. III. Money and Travelling Expenses. The tourist will experience great inconvenience from the lack of a uni- form currency in the Provinces. If he carries New-Brunswick money into Nova Scotia or Quebec, it can only be passed at a discount ; and the same is true with Nova-Scotia or Quebec bills in either of the other Provinces. There appears to be no standard currency in circulation. To save fre- quent discounts, it is best for the tourist to carry U. S. money, changing it, in each Province, for the amount of loca,l currency that he will be likely to need- there. Respectable shop-keepers in the cities take U. S. money in payment for their goods, valuing it at the rate at which it is quoted on the local exchange. It is, however, more economical and con- venient to take the U. S. money to an exchange office and buy as much of the local currency as will be needed during the sojourn. The shop- keepers are apt to charge at least full prices to people who have Amer- ican money. The silver coins of this country could only be defined in a lengthy numismatical treatise. There are half-crowns, two-shilling pieces, flor- ins, shillings, and several smaller grades of English coins, independent and varying silver and copper tokens of each of the Lower Provinces, the money of Ne^vfoundland, and large quantities of American silver. The latter is very unstable in its valuation, since a 25-cent piece goes for from 20 to 24 cents in the same city and on the same day, the rate of ex- change apparently depending on the time of day and the mood of the shop-keeper. Nova-Scotian or Canadian money is held at a heavy dis- count in Newfoundland, and it is better to carry greenbacks there. IV. Railways and Steamboats. The new-born railway system of the Maritime Provinces is being ex- tended rapidly on all sides, by the energy of private corporations and the liberality of the Canadian Government. The lines are generally well and securely constructed, on English principles of solidity, and are not yet burdened by such a pressure of traffic as to render travelling in any way dangerous. The cars are built on the American plan, and are suf- ficiently comfortable. On most trains there are no accommodations for smokers, and, generally, when any such convenience exists, it is only to be had in the second-class cars. Pullman cars were introduced on the Intercolonial Railway in 1874, and will probably be retained there during the summer seasons. They have been used on the European and North American road for three years. There are restaurants at convenient dis- tances on the lines, where the trains stop long enough for passengers to take their meals. The narrow-gauge cars on Prince Edward Island and on the New Brunswick Railway will attract the attention of travellers, on account of their singular construction. The tourist has choice of INTEODUCTION. 5 three grades of accommodation on the chief railways, — Pullman car, first class, and second class. The latter mode of travelling is very un- comfortable. The steamships which ply along these coasts afford material for a naval museum. At least two vessels of the Quebec and Gulf Ports fleet were captured blockade-runners ; the Edgar Stuart was one of the most daring of the Cuban supply-ships, and was nearly the cause of a battle between the Spanish steamer Tornado and the U. S. frigate Wyoming, in the harbor of Aspinwall ; the M. A . Starr was built for a British gunboat ; it is claimed that the Virgo was intended for a U. S. man-of-war ; and there are several other historic vessels now engaged in these peaceful pursuits. Good accommodations are given on the vessels which ply between Boston and St. John and to Halifax and Prince Ed- ward Island, The cabins of the Quebec and Gulf Ports steamships are elegantly fitted up, and are airy and spacious. The Annapolis, Minas, Prince Edward Island, and Newfoundland lines have comfortable accom- modations, and the Yarmouth and North Shore vessels are also fairly equipped. The lines to the Magdalen Islands, St. Pierre, and along the Newfoundland and Labrador coasts are primarily intended for the trans- portation of freight, and for successfully encountering rough weather and heavy seas, and have small cabins and plain fare. The Saguenay steam- ers resemble the better class of American river-boats, and have fine accommodations. Since the Canadas are under the English social system and have retained the Old-World customs, it will be foimd expedient, in many cases, to conciliate the waiters and stewards by small gifts of money. As the results thereof, the state-rooms will be better cared for, and the meals will be more promptly and generously served. The Mail-Stages. — The remoter districts of the Provinces are visited by lines of stages. The tourist will naturally be deceived by the grandil- oquent titles of "Koyal Mail Stage," or "Her Majesty's Mail Koute," and suppose that some reflected stateliness will invest the vehicles that bear such august names. In point of fact, and with but two or three exceptions, the Provincial stages are far from corresponding to such ex- pectations ; being, in most cases, the rudest and plainest carriages, some- times drawn by but one horse, and usually improvided with covers. The fares, however, are very low, for this class of transportation, and a good rate of speed is usually kept up. V. Sound-Trip Excursions. During the summer and early autiunn the railway and steamship com- panies prepare lists of excursions at greatly reduced prices. Information and lists of these routes may be obtained of George F. Field, General Passenger Agent of the Eastern R. R., 134 Washington St., Boston ; T. 6 INTKODUCTIOX. Edward Eond, Ticket Agent of the Central Vermont R. R., 148 Washing- ton St., Boston; and from Stevenson and Leve, Passenger Agents of tlie Quebec and Gulf Ports S. S. Co., Quebec. Small books are issued every spring by these companies, each giving several hundred combinations of routes, ■svitli their prices. They may be obtained on application, in person or by letter, at the above-mentioned offices. The excursion tickets are good dm-ing the season, and have all the privileges of first-class tickets. The following toui-s, selected from the books of the three companies (for 1874), will serve to convey an idea of the pecuniary expense incm-red in a trip through the best sections of the Maritime Provinces. The Central Vermont R. R. — (Excursion 139.) International steam- ship, Boston to St. John ; St. John to Halifax, by the Annapolis route ; Halifax to Pictou, by the Intercolonial Railway; Pictou to Quebec, by the Q. k G. P. steamships (meals and state-room extra) ; Quebec to Mon- treal, by the Richelieu steamer, or the Grand Trmik Railway ; Quebec to Boston, by the Central Vermont R. R, Fare, $34.50; or if the Eastern Railroad is preferred between Boston and St. John, $36.50. Boston to Portland, by Eastern R. R. ; N. E. & N. S. S. S. Co. to Hali- fax ; Halifax to Point du Chene, by the Intercolonial Railway ; Point du Chene to Quebec, by Q. & G. P. S. S. Co. ; Quebec to Montreal, by rail- way or steamer ; Montreal to Boston, by the Central Vermont R. R. Fare, $33.35. Boston to Montreal, by Central Vt. R. R. and connections; Montreal to Quebec, by railway or steamer ; Quebec •to Point du Chene, by Q. & G. P. steamship ; Point du Chene to St. John, by Intercolonial Railway ; St. John to Boston, by International steamship. Fare, §29.15. Eastern R. R. — Boston to St. John, by rail ; St. John to Point du Chene, by Intercolonial Railway ; Point d\i Chene to Quebec, by Quebec and Gulf Ports S. S. Co. ; Quebec to Boston, by Grand Trunk and East- ern Railways. Fare, $35.65. Boston to St. John and Shediac, by rail ; Shediac to Summerside, Char- lottetown, and Pictoii, by steamship ; Pictou to Halifax, by rail ; Halifax to St. John, by the Annapolis route ; St. John to Boston, by rail. Fai-e, $34.10. Boston to Portland, by rail ; Portland to St. John, by steamer ; St. John to Halifax, by Annapolis route ; Halifax to St. John, by Intercolo- nial Railway ; St. John to Boston, by rail. Fare, $26.50. Quebec and Gulf Pm-ts S. S. Co. — Boston to Pictou, by the Boston and Colonial S. S. Co. ; Pictou to Quebec, by the Q. & G. P. S. S. Co. Fare, $ 21 ; fare from Quebec to Boston, $ 10. Boston to Halifax, by Boston and Colonial S. S. Co. ; Halifax to St. John, by the Annapolis route ; St. John to Point du Chene, by Inter- colonial Railway ; Point du Chene to Quebec, by Q. k G. P. S. S. Co. Fare, $26.50. INTRODUCTION. 7 Boston to Portland, by Eastern R, R. ; Portland to St. John, by Inter- national S. S. Co. ; St. John to Point du Chene, by Intercolonial Rail- way ; Point du Chene to Quebec, by Q. & G. P. S. S. Co. Fare, $ 19. VI. Hotels. The Hotels of the Maritime Provinces are far behind the age. The Victoria Hotel, at St. John, is the only first-class house in the four Prov- inces, though the two chief hotels at Halifax are comfortable. The Island Park Hotel, at Summerside, P. E. I,, is the only summer resort of any consequence. The general rates at the better hotels of the second class is $2 a day ; and the village inns and country taverns charge from $ 1 to $ 1.50, with reductions for boarders by the week. VII. Language. The English language will be found sufficient, unless the tourist desires to visit the more remote districts of Cape Breton, or the Acadian settle- ments. The Gaelic is probably the predominant language on Cape Breton, but English is also spoken in the chief villages and fishing-communities. In the more secluded farming-districts among the highlands the Gaelic tongue is more generally used, and the tourist may sometimes find whole families, not one of whom can speak English. In the villages along the Lower St. Lawrence, and especially on the North Shore, the French language is in common use, and English is nearly unknown. The relation of this language to the polite French speech of the present day is not clearly understood, and it is frequently stigmatized by Americans as ''an unintelligible patois.'^ This state- ment is erroneous. The Canadian French has borrowed from the Eng- lish tongue a few nautical and political terms, and has formed for itself words describing the peculiar phenomena and conditions of nature in the new homes of the people. The Indians have also contributed numerous terms, descriptive of the animals and their habits, and the operations of forest-life. But the interpolated words are of rare occurrence, and the language is as intelligible as when brought from the North of France, two centuries ago. It is far closer in its resemblance to the Parisian speech than are the dialects of one fourth of the departments of France. Trav- ellers and immigrants from Old France find no difficulty in conversing with the Lower-Canadians, and the aristocracy of Quebec speak as pure an idiom as is used in the Faubourg St. Germain. Among others whose testimony has been given in support of this fact, the Editor would adduce a gentleman whom he recently met in Canada, and who was an officer in the Imperial Guard until its capture in the Franco-Prussian war. He stated that neither he nor any of his compatriots, who came over after the triumph of Germany, had ever had any difficulty with the Canadian language, and that he had not yet learned a word of English. 5 IXTKOPrCTIOX. This langtiag? bas an e:xtensdve and interesting literatnre, which in- cludes science, theology, history, romance, and poetry. It has also numerous newspapers and magixrines, and is kept from adulteration by the vidlance of sevend colleges and a powerful university. It is usevl. co-or\linately with the English Language, in the reconls and journjils of the Dominion and Provincial rarli;unents. and speeches and pleadings in French are allowable before the Parliaments :ind courts of Canad:i, Thus much to prove the sxtbstcvntial identity of the Lower-Canadian and French lang\n\ges. The tourist who wishes to ramble through the an- cient French-Ciinadian districts will, therefore, get on very well if he has travelled much in Old France. Btit if the langu.nge is \tnknown to him, he will be subjected to many inconveniences and harvlships. VIII. Climate and Dress. The more northerly situation of the Maritime Provinces and their vicin- ity, on so many sides, to the sea. render the climate even more severe and uncertain than that of New England. The extremes of heat and cold ai-e much farther apart than in the corresponding latitudes of Europe, and, as Marmier expresses it, this region "combines the torrid climate of southern regions with the severity of i\n hyperlxvrean winter." During the brief but lovely summer the atmosphere is clear and balmy, and vegetation flourishes amain. The winters are long and severe, but ex- ercise no evil effect on the people, nor restrain the merry gaiues of the vouths. Ever since Knowles sent to Enghmd his celebrated dictimi that the climate of Nova Scotia consisted of " nine months of winter an.! three months of fog,'" the people of Britain and America have had highly ex- aggerated ideas of the severity of the seasons in the Pi\->vinces. These statements are not borne out by the facts ; and. though Nova Scotia and New Brunswick have not the mild skies of Virginia, their coldest weather is surpasseil by the winters of the Northwestern States, The meteorological tables and the physical condition of the people prove that the climate, though severe, is healthy and invigorating. The time has gone by for describhig these Provinces as a gloomy land of frozen HyjH^r- boreaus. and for decrying them with pessimistic pen. The worst annoyance experienced by tourists is the prevalence of dense fogs, which sometimes sweep in suddenly from the sea and bi\xxl over the cities. In order to encoimter such tmwelcome visitations, and also to be prepared against fresh breezes on the open sea, travellers should be pro- vided with heavy shawls or overcoats, and woollen underclotMug slioidd be kept at hand. IX. Fishing. ''Anglers in the United States Avho desire to tish a salmon-river in tlio Pomiuion of Canada should club together and apply for the tiuvial parts INTRODUCTION. 9 of rivers The government leases the rivers for a term of nine years, and rivers unlet on the first day of each year are advertised by tlie gov- ernment to be let to the highest bidders. The places of residence of those tendering for fishings are not considered in letting a river ; and if a gen- tleman from the States overbids a Canadian, the river will be declared as his. Rivers are therefore hired by Europeans as well as by Canadians and citizens of the States Rivers are either let in whole or parts, each part permitting the use of a given number of rods, generally four. Parties who desire to lease a Canadian river should address a letter to the Minister of Marine and Fisheries, at Ottawa, stating how many rods they have, and the district which they prefer to fish. He will forward them a list of the leasable rivers, and a note of information, upon which they should get some Canadian to make the tender for them. The leases of fluvial parts of rivers vary from two to six hundred dollars a year for from three to eight rods, and the price for guides or gaffers is a dollar a day." (This subject is fully discussed in Scott's " Fishing in American Waters.") "The Game Fish of the Northern States and British Provinces," by Robert B. Roosevelt (published by Carleton, of New York, in 1865), contains an account of the salmon and sea-trout fishing of Canada and New Brunswick. The pursuit of sea-trout on the Lower St. Lawrence and Laval is described in pages 50-88 and 315-321; the Labrador rivers, pages 107-111 ; the Miramichi and Nepisiguit Rivers, pages 111-145 ; the Schoodic Lakes, pages 145-147. " Fishing in American Waters," by Genio C. Scott (published by Har- per and Brothers, 1869), contains practical directions to sportsmen, and graphic descriptions of fishing in the rivers of New Brunswick and Lower Quebec. " Frank Forester's Fish and Fishing of the United States and British Provinces of North America," by H. W. Herbert (New York, 1850), is to a large extent technical and scientific, and contains but a few incidental allusions to the provincial fisheries. "The Fishing Tourist," by Charles Hallock (published by Harper and Brothers, 1873), contains about 100 pages of pleasant descriptions relat- ing to the Schoodic Lakes, the best trout and salmon streams of Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and Cape Breton, the Bay of Chaleur, the Sague- nay and Lower St, Lawrence, Anticosti, and Labrador. IX. Miscellaneous Notes. The times of departure of the provincial steamships are liable to change every season. The tables given in the ensuing routes are based on those of 1874, and the changes for 1875 are indicated so far as the Editor has been able to learn them. The tourist can find full particulars of the days 1* 10 IXTRODUCTIOX. of sailing, etc., on arriving at St. John, from the local and the Halifax newspapers. The names of the agents of these lines have also been given hereinafter, and further information may be obtained by wTiting to their addresses. Tlie custom-house formalities at the national frontiers depend less upon the actual laws than upon the men who exec;ite them. The examination of baggage is usually conducted in a lenient manner, but trunks and packiiges are sometimes detained on accoimt of the presence of too many Canadian goods. It is politic, as well as gentlemanly, for the tourist to afford the officers every facility for the inspection of his baggage. Travellers are advised to carefully inspect the prices of goods offered them by shop-keepers, since the lavish and unquestioning extravagance of American tourists has somewhat intiuenced the tone of commercial morality. The people of the Provinces are generally courteous, and are willing to answer any civilly put questions. The inhabitants of the more remote districts are distinguished for their hospitality, and are kindly disposed and honest. EOUTES FEOM B0ST0:N' TO THE MAEITIME PEOYINCES. 1, By Railway. The Eastern and Maine Central R. R. Lines afford the best mode of ap- proach by land. Their trains leave the terminal station on Causeway St., Boston, and run through to Bangor, without change of cars. Pullman cars are attached to the through trains, and tickets are sold to nearly all points in the Eastern Provinces. At Bangor passengers change to the cars of the European & North American R. R., which runs E. through the great forests of Maine and New Brunswick to the city of St. John. Between Boston and Portland this route traverses a peculiarly interesting country, with frequent glimpses of the sea ; but the country between Bangor and St. John is almost devoid of attractions. The Boston f Maine R. R. may also be used as an avenue to the Eastern Provinces, though the Editor does not know what connections (if any) it makes at Portland with the lines to the Eastward. 2. By Steamship. The International Steamship Company despatches vessels three times weekly from June 15 to October 1, leaving Commercial Wharf, Boston, at 8 A. M., on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. They touch at Portland, which is left at 6 p. m. ; and afterwards they run along the Maine coast, calling at Eastport and traversing Passamoquoddy Bay. Fares, — from Boston to Eastport, $ 5 ; to St. John, $ 5.50. The steamers of the Portland Steam Packet Company leave India Wharf, Boston, every morning, running along the New England coast to Portland. At that city they connect with the fine steamship Falmouth, which leaves Portland every Saturday at 5.30 p. m., stretching out over the open sea, and, beyond Cape Sable, following the Nova-Scotia coast to Halifax. Clements'' Line affords the most convenient route to visit the famous hunting and fishing grounds of the western counties of Nova Scotia, The 12 FROM BOSTON TO THE MARITIME PROVINCES. steamship Domj'rz J ore leaves Lewis "Wharf, Boston, every Tuesday noon, for Yarmouth and St. John, giving an exhilarating voyage across the open sea. The Boston, Halifax, and Prince Edward Island Steamship Line despatch vessels from T Wharf, Boston, every Saturday at noon. After reaching Halifax these steamships run N. E. along the Nova-Scotia coast, round Cape Canso, and traverse the picturesque Gut of Canso. They call at Pictou and then run across to Charlottetown. By leaving the vessel at Port Hawkesbury, the tourist can easily reach the Bras d'Or and other parts of the island of Cape Breton. 3. Eoutes by icay of Montreal and Quebec. Montreal may be reached by either the Central Vermont R. R., the ^lon- treal & Boston Short Line (Passumpsic R. R.), or the Eastern and Grand Trunk lines. These routes are all described in Osgood's New England: a Handbook for Travellers (revised up to 1S75). The most picturesque route from Quebec to the Maritime Provinces is by the vessels of the Que- bec & Gulf Ports Steamship Company, which leave every week for the eastern ports of Quebec, New Brunswick, and Nova Scotia, connecting with the local lines of travel. It now seems improbable that the Interco- lonial Railway can be opened to travel from (Quebec and) Riviere de Loup to Mono ton and Halifax this year. Further particulars about these lines and their accommodations, the days on which they depart for Boston, etc., may be found in their advertise- ments, which are grouped at the end of the book. There, also, may be found the names and addresses of the agents of the lines, from whom other information may be obtained, by letter or by personal application. The main question for the summer tourist will naturally be whether he shall go eastward by rail or by a short sea-voyage. The Editor has travelled on each of the above-mentioned lines (with one exception) and on some of them several times, and has found them well equipped and comfortable. MARITIME-PROYINCES HANDBOOK. NEW BRUNSWICK. The Province of New Brunswick is situated nearly in the centre of the North Temperate Zone, and is bounded by Maine and Quebec on the W., Quebec and the Bay of Chaleur on the N., the Gulf of St. Lawrence and the Northumberland Strait on the E., and Nova Scotia and the Bay of Fundy on the S. It is 140 M. long from E. to W., and 190 M. from N. to S., and contains 27,105 square miles. The direct coast-line (exclusive of indentations) is 410 M., which is nearly equally divided between the S. and E. shores, and is broken by many fine harbors. The Bay of Fundy on the S., and the Bay of Chaleur on the N., are of great size and com- mercial importance, — the former being 140 M. long by 30-50 M. wide; the latter being 90 M. long by 10 - 25 M. wide. The fisheries in the great bays and in the Gulf are of immense value, employing many thousand men, and attracting large American fleets. They have furnished suste- nance to the people of the maritime counties, and have been the occasion of developing a race of skilful mariners. During the past 50 years 6,000 vessels have been built in this Province, valued at nearly $80,000,000. The lumber business is conducted on a vast scale on all the rivers, and the product amounts to $4,000,000 a year. The country is generally level, and is crossed by low ridges in the N. and W. There are numerous lakes, whose scenery is generally of a sombre and monotonous character. The interior is traversed by the rivers St. John, Eestigouche, Miramichi, Petitcodiac, Nepisiguit, and Richibucto, which, with their numerous tributaries, afford extensive facilities for boat- navigation. The river-fisheries of New Brunswick are renowned for their variety and richness, and attract many American sportsmen. There are 14,000,000 acres of arable land in the Province, a great por- tion of which has not yet been brought into cultivation. The intervales of the rivers contain 60,000 acres, and are very rich and prolific, being fertilized by annual inundations. The chief agricultural products are wheat, buckwheat, barley, oats, potatoes, butter, and cheese ; but farming operations are still carried on in an antiquated and unscientific manner. The climate is less inclement on the Bay of Fundy than farther inland. The mean temperature for the last ten years at St. John was, for the winter, 174-°; spring, 37^-'';- summer, 58°; autumn, 44|°. The thermom- U NEW EKUXSWICK. oter wnjo? botweou — 22" tuui S7' ftj; the extreme? marked during the past ten years. The pn?seut domain of New Brunswick was formerly occupied by two distiuct nations of Indians. The Micmacs wert^ an oiVshoot of the Algvni- quiu race, and inhabited all the sea-shore regions. They were jx>werful and hardy, and made daring boatmen and fishermen. The Milioete^ were fi\->m the HurvMi nation, and inhabited the St. John valley and the inland lorests. being skilful in hunting and all manner of woodcratt. They Avere less nnmervnis and warlike than the Micmacs. Both tribes had a simple and be^iutifnl theology, to which w:vs attached a multitude of quaint mythological legends. This region was included in the ancient domain of Acadie (or Acadia), which was granteti to the Sieur De Monts by King Henri IV. of France, in 160S. De Monts explored the St. John Kiver, and plsuited an epheraerr' colony on the St. Croix, in 10!O4. Fivm 1035 until 1645 the St. John Eire was the scene of the feudal wars between La Tour and Chamisay. Olivi Civmwell sent an expedition in 1654, which occupied the country: bi it was l^estored to Fr:mce by Charles 11. in 1670. Alter the war of 1689 97, this region was apiin confinned to France, and its W. boundary wa kvated at the St. G^-»rge Kiver, W. of Penobscot Bay. Meantime tb shores of tlie Bay of Chaleur and the Gulf of St. Lawi-ence had been se tied by the French, between 1639 and 1672. The Xew-Englanders invad' the ProWuce in 1703, and in 1713 Acadia Avas ceded to England. The French limited the cession to Nova Scotia, and fortified the line c the ^lissigaash River, to pn.">tect the domains to the N. In 1755 a nav expedition from Boston took these forts, and also the post at St. Joh and in 175S the whole Province was occupied by Anglo-American trooj In 1763 it was surrendered to England by the Treaty of Versailles. The Americans made several attacks on northern Acadia during tl Eevolntionary "War, but were prevented fi\-^m holding the country by t British fleets at Halitax. At the close of the war many thousands American Loyalists retired from the United States to this and the adjoi ing countries. In 17S4 New Brunswick was organized as a Provinc having been previously dependent on Nova Scotia: and in 17SS the ca} tal was established at Fredericton. Immigration fa^m Great Britain no commenced, and the forests began to give way before the lumbermen. ] 1S39 the Paivince called out its militia on the occasion of the bonndar disputes with Maine: and in 1S61 it was occupied with British tnx^ps o account of the possibilitA- of a war with the United States about the Trent affair. In 1S65 New BrnnsAvick refused, by a popular A-ote» to enter th Dominion of C^mada. but it accepted the plan the next year, and becam a part of the Dominion in 1S67. The population of New Brunswick was 74.176 in 1S24. 154,000 in 1S40. and 2S5,777 in 1S71. I 29- Portland D. i. ^ 30. Marsh Bridge F. 2, O 31- Suspension Bridge, ,,,..,,,.,,, .,.A, I, 32. Reed's P«int, ,....,.....,,.. C 4, 33. Negretowa P<3ij3it,.,,,,.,,.....,..,.A. 5. CARLETON. 34. City Hall B. 2. 35. Market B. 3. 36. Martello Tower, , A. 3. 37. Luaatic Asylum, ■ A. i. 38. Chureh of thf Assuijjption, A. 3. 39. St. Jude's ,.,..,.,,,,.,.,.,.. A. 4. 40. St. George's, ,,,.,A.2 HOTELS. /ictoria, 3arnes's VaverlQy, .,. S.oyal, .,.,., international, i'ark -g-3- ..D.3. .,D,3. ,..D. 3- ..D.3. ..E, 3- Office, D. 3. Custom House, D. 3. Court House E. 3. City Hall, D. 3. Bank of N. B., D. 3. Mechanics' Institute E. 2. Y. M. C. A. E 3. Academy of Music D. 3. " Rink F. 2. Marine Hospital, D. 4. City Hospital, F. 2. Wiggins Asylum, D. 4. Cemetery , . .E. 3. King's Square, .E. 3. Queen's Square D. 4. Cathedral, E. 2, 3. Trinity Church, D- 3. St. Paul's , E. 2. St. John's, E. 2. St, Andrew's D. 3. iRtercolonial Station E. 2. E. & N. A. Station C. 3- ST. JOHN. Route 1. 15 I St. John. Arrival from the Sea. — Soon after passing Negro Head, the steamer runs in by Partridge Island, the round and rocky guard of the harbor of St. John. Its precipitous sides are seamed with deep clefts and narrow chasms, and on the up- land are seen the Quarantine Hospital, the buildings of the steam fog-horn and the lighthouse, and the ruins of a cUff battery. On the 1. is the bold headland of Negrotown Pnint, crowned by dilapidated earthworks. The course now leads in by the Beacon-light (1. side), with the Martello Tower on Carleton Heights, and the high-placed St. Jude's Church on the 1. In front are the green slopes and barracks of the Military Grounds, beyond which are the populous hills of St. John. Hotels. — The * Victoria, corner of Duke and Germain Sts., is the best hotel in the Maritime Provinces. It is centrally located, and accommodates 300 guests ; terms, $ 3 a day. Barnes's Hotel, Prince William St., near Princess St ; the Waver- ley. King St., near King Square ($2 3, day) ; the Royal, 146 Prince William St ; the International, corner of Prince William and Duke Sts. The Park and the Conti- nental are comfortable hotels fronting on King Square, near which are several smaller houses. The American is a second-class hotel on lower King St. ; the Bay View is on Prince William St., near Reed's Point. Amusements. — Theatrical performances and other entertainments are fre- quently given at the Academy of Music, on Germain St., near Duke St. The Academy can accommodate 2,000 people. Lectures and concerts are given in the hall of the Mechanics' Institute, near the head of Germain St. Varieties and min- strels at Lee's Opera-House, on Dock St. Reading-Kooms. — The Young Men's Christian Association, en Charlotte St. , near King Square ; open from 9 a. m. until 10 P. m. The Mechanics' Institute, near the head of Germain St., has an extensive variety of British papers on file. Carriages. — For a course within the city, 30c. for one passenger, 10c. for each additional one. For each half-hour, 50c. If the river is crossed the passenger pays the toll, which is, for a double carriage, 15c. each way by ferry, 20c. by the bridge. Horse-cars run from Market Square through Dock and Mill Sts., to the ter- minus of the river steamboat-lines, at Indiantown (fare, 5c.). Hallways. — The European and North American Railway runs W. to Bangor in 206 M. , connecting there with the Maine Central and Eastern lines for Boston, 449 M. from St. John. The same road also has a branch to Fredericton. The In- tercolonial Railway runs E. to Shediac, Truro, and Halifax (276 M.). Steamsliips. — The Temperley and other lines run steamships occasionally between St. John and Liverpool, or London. The steamship Linda leaves St. John every Friday evening for Boston, touching at Yarmouth, N. S. The International Steamship Company despatches one of their vessels every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday morning, at 8 o'clock, for Boston, touching at Eastport and Portland, and connecting with a steamer for St. Andrews and St. Stephen. A steamer leaves the Reed's Point Wharf, at 8 A.M., every Thursday and Saturday, for St. George, St. Andrews, and St. Stephen (calling at Beaver Harbor on Saturdays). The Empress crosses the Bay of Fundy to Digby and Annapolis, on Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday, at 8 a. m., connecting at Annapolis with the railway for Halifax. A steamer leaves the Reed's Point Wharf every Tuesday evening for Parrsboro', Wind- sor, and the ports on the Basin of Minas. St. John River Lines. — The David Weston, of the Union Line, leaves Indiantown on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, at 9 a. m., for Fredericton and the interme- diate landings. The Rothesay, of the Express Line, leaves Indiantown Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, at 9 a. M., for Fredericton and the intermediate landings. The May Queen leaves Indiantown on Wednesday and Saturday, at 8 a. m., for Gagetown and Grand Lake. The Star leaves Indiantown on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, at 10 a. m., for Cole's Island and the Washademoak Lake. The Carleton ferry-steamers leave the foot of Princess St. every 15 minutes until 9.30 P. M. Fare, 3c. ; for one-horse carriages, 9c, ; for two-horse carriages, 15c. 16 Route 1. ST. JOHN. St, John, the chief city of the Province of New Brunswick and tlic commercial metropolis of the Bay of Fundy, occupies a commanding position at the mouth of the St. John River. From its favorable situation for the purposes of commerce it has been termed " the Liverpool of Amer- ica " (a claim, however, which Halifax stoutly combats, and which should be limited at least to " the Liverpool of Canada"). The city has 28,805 inhabitants (census of 1871), and the contiguous suburb of Portland has 12,520 more. The ridge upon which it is built is composed of solid rock, through which streets have been cut at great expense; and the plan of the streets is regular, including a succession of rectangular squares. The general appearance of the city is, however, somewhat uneven and dingy, owing to the difference in the size of the buildings and to the absence of paint. The harbor is good, and is kept free from ice by the high tides of the Bay of Fundy and the sweeping current of the St. John River. It is usually well filled with shipping, and the shores are lined with wharves and mills. The hill-country in the vicinity is baiTcn but picturesque, and affords a variety of pleasing marine views. Since 1853 the Avater supply of the city has been drawn from Little River, and the works have a daily capacity of 5,500,000 gallons. The fire depai'tment has 3 steam-engines, but is seldom called into service. There are 26 churches in St. John and Portland, of which the Baptists claim precedence in point of numbers. There are 4 banks, and 4 daily and several weekly newspapers. King Street is the main business street of the city, and runs from the harbor across the peninsula to Courtenay Bay. All the principal shops are on this street, between the harbor and King Square, and along Prince William St., which intersects it near the water. At the foot of the street is the Market Slip, into which the light packet-boats and produce-vessels from the adjacent rural counties bring wood and provisions for the use of the city. At low tide, these vessels are, for the most part, left to hold themselves up on the muddy flats. At this point landed the weary and self-exiled American Loyalists, in. 1783, and founded the city of St. John. The rather dreary breadth of King St. is occupied in its lower part by wagoners and unemployed workmen. From this point the street ascends a steep hill, passing the telegraph-office, police-court, and several banks and hotels. King Square is entered through a pretentious " tri- umphal arch" of wood, which was erected in honor of Prince Arthur's visit, and has since been utilized for sustaining the fire-alarm bell. The Square is an open space of about 3 acres in area, studded with young trees, and adorned in the centre with a small fountain. To the E. is the County Market, a naiTow street filled with rude stalls. A few steps N. W. of the Square (on Charlotte St.) is the new and handsome building of the Young Men's Christian Association, containing a large hall, gymnasium, parlors, and class-rooms. The library and reading-room are open daily (except Sunday) from 9 A. M. to 10 p. m., and strangers are welcomed. ST. JOHN. Route 1. 17 The building cost $38,000, and was dedicated in 1872, but subsequently gave signs of instability, and has since been strengthened at considerable expense. The County Court House and Jail are at the S. E. corner of King Square, and are antiquated and homely stone buildings. To the E. is the Old Burying- Ground, containing the graves of the pioneers of the Province, with epitaphs in many cases quaint and interesting. Trinity Church is on Germain St., near Princess St., and is a large and plain wooden building with a spire and clock-tower. It was built in 1788, and has had subsequent additions and enlargements. The roof is sustained by two lines of wooden columns, of the Doric order ; and the walls are adorned with mural tablets and with the Royal Arms which formerly be- longed to Trinity Church in New York, and was brought here by the Loy- alists in 1783, having been rescued from the New York church during the great fire of 1776. Beyond Trinity is St. Andrew's Church (Presbyterian), with its quaint interior, by the side of which rise the lofty walls of the Victoria Hotel. By ascending the next street (Queen) to the 1., Queen Square is reached, — a carelessly kept park suiTounded with dwelling- houses. A short distance to the E., on St. James Street, is the Wiggins Male Orphan Institution, a new building in Gothic architecture, of red and gray sandstone. It is the most elegant and symmetrical structure of its size in the Province, and cost over $100,000, but is only adequate to the accommodation of 30 orphans. The Marine Hospital is in this vicinity. A short walk out Sydney St. or Caermarthen St. leads to the Military Grounds, on the extreme S. point of the peninsula. Here is a spacious parade-ground, which is now used only by the cricket and base-ball clubs, and barracks for the accommodation of 2,000 soldiers. These grounds were formerly occupied by large detachments from the British army, whose officers were a desired acquisition to the society of the city, while the military bands amused the people by concerts on Queen Square. From the Military Grounds is obtained a series of views of the harbor and bay, with Partridge Island near at hand in the foreground. Prince William Street runs S. from Market Square to Reed's Point, and is one of the chief thoroughfares of the city, containing several hotels and some of the largest shops. Where it crosses Princess St., the Carleton ferry is seen to the r., and on the 1. is Ritchie's Building, the headquarters of lawyers and Freemasons. At the S. W. corner of Prince William and Princess Sts. is the new *Post-Ofl5ce, an elegant building of gray sand- stone, ornamented with columns of the polished red granite of St. George. It is surmounted by a clock tower 100 ft. high. The next building, with a classic front and one wing, is occupied by the Bank of New Brunswick, beyond which is the Custom House, a plain and massive stone building, which dates from 1842. It is 250 ft. long, and contains several of the provincio-national offices, and a storm-signal station which receives warn- 18 Route 1. ST. JOHN. ings from " Old Probabilities " at Washington. The street ends at Reed's Point, the headquarters of several lines of coasting-steamers, whence may- be seen the Breakwater, W. of the Military Grounds. At the N. end of Germain St. is the old Stone Church, a sanctuary of the Episcopalians under the invocation of St. John. Its square stone tower is visible for a long distance, on account of the elevation of the site on which it stands. Nearly opposite is the brick Calvin Church (Presby- terian) ; and in the same vicinity is the classic wooden front of the Me- chanics' Institute, which has a large hall, and is the domicile of one of the city schools. The reading-room is supplied with Canadian and British newspapers, and the library contains about 7,000 volumes (open from 2^ to 5 o'clock). From this point roads descend to the water-side and to the railway station in the Valley. The Roman Catholic * Cathedral is situated on "Waterloo St., and is the largest church in the Province. It is constructed of marble and sand- stone, in pointed architecture, and has a tall and graceful stone spire. The interior is in a style of the severest simplicity, the Gothic arches of the clere-story being supported on plain and massive piers. The windows are of stained glass, and are very brilliant and rich. The chancel and transept windows are large and of fine design ; a rose window is placed over the organ-loft; and the side windows represent Saints Bernard, Dominic, Ambrose, Jerome, Mark, Matthew, Andrew, Benedict, Francis, John, Luke, Augustine, and Gregory. The building is 200 ft. long, and 110 ft. wide at the transepts. The Bishop'' s Palace is the fine sandstone building towards Cliff St., beyond which is the extensive building of the Orphan Asylum, fronting on Cliff St. On the other side of the Cathedral is the" plain brick building of the Nunnery. The visitor should notice, over the Cathedral portal adjacent to the Nunnery, the great marble bas-relief of the Last Supper (after Leonardo Da Vinci's painting at Milan). From this point Waterloo St. descends to the Marsh Bridge, at the head of Courtenay Bay. By ascending CliflT St. for a short distance, a point may be reached from which are seen the Valley, with its churches and streets, and the embowered villas on Portland Heights, over which Eeed's Castle is prominent. The General Public Hospital is situated on a bold rocky knoll which overlooks the Marsh Valley, and is entered from Waterloo St. It consists of a large brick building with one wing, and accommodates 80 patients. The structure pertains to the city, and was erected in 1865 at a cost of $ 54,000. Directly below the precipitous sides of the knoll on which it is built is the broad Marsh, covered with houses, and extending on the r. to Courtenay Bay. The geologists entertain a plausible theory that in remote ages the St. John Eiver flowed down this valley from the Kenne- becasis to the sea, until finally the present channel through the Narrows was opened by some convulsion of nature. ST. JOHN. Route 1, 19 That suburb which is known as the Valley lies between the rocky hills of the city proper and the line of the Portland Heights. It is reached from King Square by Charlotte and Cobourg Sts., and contains the tracks and station of the Intercolonial Railway. The most prominent object in the Valley is St. PauVs Church (Episcop-al), a graceful wooden edifice with transepts, a clere-storj^ and a tall spire. The windows are of stained glass. The brick church of St. Stephen and the white Zion Church (Reformed Episcopal) are also situated in the Vallej', and the road to Lily Lake di- verges to the r. from the latter. Farther to the E., on the City Road, is the Skating EinJc, a round Avooden building, 160 ft, in diameter, covered with a domed roof This is the favorite winter resort of the aristocracy of St. John, and strangers can gain admission only by introduction from one of the directors. The site of St. John was the Menagwes of ancient Micmac tradition, where the divine Giooscap once had his home. Hence, during his absence, his attendants were carried away by a powerful evil magician, who fled with them to Grand Manan, Cape Breton, and Newfoundland, where he was pursued by Giooscap, who rode much of the way on the backs of whales which he called in from the deep sea. Passing through Cape Breton, he at length reached the dark Newfoundland shores, where he assumed such a stature that the clouds rolled about his head. The evil- doing wizard was soon found and put to death and the servants of Giooscap were set free. The site of St. John was discovered by Champlain and De Monts, on St. John's Day (June 24), 1604, but was not occupied for 30 years after. Claude de la Tour, a Huguenot noble, was one of the earhest of the French adven- turers in this region, and received a grant of all Acadia from Charles I. of England. After his repulse and humihation (see Route 25), the French government divided Acadia into three provinces, placing there as governors, M. Denys, Razilly, and the young and chivalrous Charles de St. Estienne, Lord of La Tour (son of Claude), Denys contented himself with the ocean-fisheries from Canso and Cape Breton. Razilly soon died, leaying his domain to his kinsman Charles de Menou,Sieurd'Aul- nay Chamisay, who was also related to Cardinal Richelieu. D'Aulnay and La Tour began to quarrel about the boundaries of their jurisdictions, and the former em- ployed a powerful influence at the Court of France to aid his cause. Louis XIIL finally ordered him to carry La Tour to France, in chains, and open war ensued between these patrician adventurers. La Tour had erected a fort at St. John in 1634, whence he carried on a lucrative fur-trade with the Indians. In 1648 this stronghold was attacked by D'Aulnay with six vessels, but La Tour escaped on the ship Clement, leaving his garrison to hold the works. He entered Boston Harbor with 140 Huguenots of La RocheUe, and sought aid from Massachusetts against the Catholic forces which were besieging him. The austere Puritans referred to the Bible to see if they could find any precedent for such action, but found no certain response from that oracle. "On the one hand, it was said that the speech of the Prophet to Jehoshaphat, in 2d Chronicles xix. 2, and the portion of Solomon's Proverbs contained in chap, xxvi, 17th verse, not only discharged them from any obligation, but actually forbade them to assist La Tour ; while, on the other hand, it was agreed that it was as lawful for them to give him succor as it was for Joshua to aid the Gibeonites against the rest of the Canaanites, or for Jehoshaphat to aid Jehoram against Moab, in which expedition Elishawas present, and did not reprove the King of Judah." But when they had assured themselves that it would be allowable for them to aid the distressed nobleman, they sent such a fleet that D'Aul- nay's forces were quickly scattered, and the siege was raised. Two years later, while La Tour was absent, D'Aulnay again attacked the fort, but was handsomely repulsed (with a loss of 33 men) by the little garrison, headed by Madame La Tour. Some months later he returned, and opened a regular siege on the landward side (the fort was in Carleton, near Navy Island). After three days of fighting a treach- erous Swiss senti-y admitted the enemy into the works ; and even then INIadame La Tour led her troops so gallantly that the victor gave her her own terms. These 20 Route 1. ST. JOHN. terms, however, were shamefully violated, and the garrison was massacred before her face. Three weeks afterward, she died of a broken heart. La Tour came back to St. John some jears later, and found that D'Aulnay was dead, whereupon he effectually recaptured his old domain by marrying the widow of the conqueror (1653). D'Aulnay died in 1650, having spent 800,000 livres in Acadia, and built 5 fortresses, 2 seminaries, and several churches. He had several sons, all of whom entered the French army, and were slain in the service. In 1690 a sharp engagement took place in St. John harbor, between the French frigate Union and two English vessels. The former had entered the harbor bearing the Chevalier de Villebon, and was taken at a disadvantage. After a severe cannon- ade, the Unio7i hauled down her colors. Villebon soon descended the river with a party of Indians and attacked the ships, but without success. In 1696, while the Chevaher de Yillebon governed Acadia from the upper St. John and hurled de- structive Indian bands upon New England, Massachusetts sent three men-of-war to blockade the mouth of the river and cut off his supplies. They were soon attacked by D'Iberville's French frigates, and made a desperate resistance. But the New- port, 24, was unable to withstand the heavy fire of the Profond, and soon lay dis- masted and helpless. After her surrender the other American vessels escaped under cover of a thick fog. A new fleet from Boston soon afterwards overhauled the French frigates, cruising between Mount Desert and St. John, and captured the Profond, with M. de Villebon, the Governor of Acadia, on board. In 1701 the fort of St. John was dismantled by Brouillan ; but in 1708 it was rebuilt, and had 4 bastions and 24 pieces of artillery. In July, 1749, H. B. M. sloop-of-war Albany entered the harbor and drove away the French troops, lowering also the standard of France. The frigates Hound and York had a skirmish with the French here in 1750, and were ordered out of the port by Boishebert, the commandant of the fort. In 1755, four British war -vessels entered the harbor, and the French garrison demolished the fort, blew up the mag- azine, and retreated into the country. In 1758 Fort La Tour was still garrisoned by French soldiers, but, after a short siege by an Anglo-American force, the post was surrendered at discretion. Two years later, the place was visited by James Simonds, an adventurous New-Englander, who was, however, soon driven away by the Indians, " Catholics and allies of France.'- In 1764 he returned with a party of Massachusetts fishermen, and settled on the present site of the city, erecting de- fensive works on Portland Heights, under the name of Fort Howe. In 1775 a naval expedition of Americans from Machias entered the harbor and destroyed the old French fortifications (then called Fort Frederick), completing their work by plun- dering and bombarding the village. May 18, 1783, a British fleet arrived in the port bringing 5,000 of the self-styled "United Empire Loyalists," Americans who were loyal to King George and could not or would not remain in the new Republic of the United States. From this day may be dated the growth of the city of St. John. New Brunswick was set off from Nova Scotia as a separate Province the next year, and in 1786 its first Legislative Assem.bly was convened here. In 1787 Trinity Church was founded ; in 1788 harbor-lights were estabhshed on Partridge Island, and in 1799 the Royal Gazette was started. In 1837 one third of the com- mercial portion of the city was burned, involving a loss of £250,000. During the boundary dispute with the State of Maine (1839-42) the citizens were all enrolled and drilled in military exercises, in preparation for a war on the borders. Large fortunes were made by the merchants during the Crimean war, when the British timber-market, which had depended largely on the Baltic ports for its supply, was by their closing forced to draw heavily on the American Provinces. The last his- toric event at St. John was its occupation, in the winter of 1861, by several of the choicest regiments of the British army, among which were the Grenadier Guards, the Scotch Fusiliers, and other elite corps. After the peaceful solution of the Trent afiair this formidable garrison was removed, and the city has since been left to prosper in the arts of peace and industry. " Here is picturesque St. John, with its couple of centuries of history and tradi- tion, its commerces, its enterprise felt all along the coast and through the settle- ments of the territory to the northeast, with its no doubt charming society and sohd English culture ; and the summer tourist, in an idle mood regarding it for a day, says it is naught." (Wabn£r"s Baddeck.) ST. JOHN. Fcoute 1. 21 St. Jolm. 1647. " To the winds give our banner! Bear homeward again ! " Cried the Lord of Acadia, Cried Charles of Estienne ; From the prow of his shallop He gazed, as the sun, From its bed in the ocean. Streamed up the St. John. Oer the blue western waters That shallop had passed, "Where the mists of Penobscot Clung damp on her mast. St. Savior had looked On the heretic sail, As the songs of the Huguenot Rose on the gale. The pale, ghostly fathers Remembered her well. And had cursed her while passing. With taper and bell, But the men of Monhegan, Of Papists abhorred. Had welcomed and feasted The heretic Lord. They had loaded his shallop "With dun-fish and ball, "With stores for his larder, And steel for his wall. _ Pemequid, from her bastions And turrets of stone. Had welcomed his coming With banner and gun. And the prayers of the elders Had followed his way, As homeward he glided Down Pentecost Bay. O, well sped La Tour ! For, in peril and pain, His lady kept watch For his coming again. Oer the Isle of the Pheasant The morning sun shone. On the plane-trees which shaded The shores of St. John. " Now why from yon battlements Speaks not my love? Why waves there no banner My fortress above ? " Dark and wild, from his deck St. Estienne gazed about. On flre-wasted dwellings, And silent redoubt ; From the low shattered walls Which the flame had o'errun, There floated no banner. There thundered no gun. But beneath the low arch Of its doorway there stood A pale priest of Rome, In his cloak and his hood. With the bound of a lion La Tour sprang to land. On the throat of the Papist He fastened his hand. " Speak, son of the Woman Of scarlet and sin ! What wolf has been prowling My castle within ? " From the grasp of the soldier The Jesuit broke. Half in scorn, half in sorrow, He smiled as he spoke : " No wolf, Lord of Estienne, Has ravaged thy hall. But thy red-handed rival, With fire, steel, and balll On an errand of mercy I hitherward came, WhUe the walls of thy castle Yet spouted with flame. " Pentagoet's dark vessels Were moored in tlie bay. Grim sea-lions, roaring Aloud for their prey ! " " But what of my lady ? " Cried Charles of Estienne. " On the shot-crumbled turret Thy lady was seen : " Half veiled in the smoke-cloud, Her hand grasped thy pennon, While her dark tresses swayed In the hot breath of cannon 1 But woe to the heretic. Evermore woe ! When the son of the church And the cross is his foel "In the track of the shell, In the path of the ball, Pentagoet swept over The breach of the wall! Steel to steel, gun to gun. One moment, — and then Alone stood the victor. Alone with his men! " Of its sturdy defenders, Thy lady alone Saw the cross-blazoned banner Float over St. John." " Let the dastard look to it I " Cried fiery Estienne, " Were DAulnay King Louis, I d free her again ! " " Alas for thy lady ! No service from thee Is needed by her Whom the Lord hath set free : Nine days, in stem silence. Her thraldom she bore. But the tenth morning came. And Death opened her door ! " As if suddenly smitten. La Tour staggered back ; His hand grasped his sword-hilt, His forehead grew black. He sprang on the deck Of his shallop again. " We cruise now for vengeance I Give way ! " cried Estienne. " Massachusetts shall hear Of the Huguenot s wrong. And from island and creekside Her fishers shall throng ! Pentagoet shall rue What his Papists have done. When his palisades echo The Puritans gun ! " O, the loveliest of heavens Hung tenderly o er him. There were waves in the sunshine, And green isles before him : But a pale hand was beckoning The Huguenot on : And in blackness and ashes Behind was St. John ! John G. Whittiek. 22 Route 2. THE ENVIRONS OF ST. JOHN. 2. The Environs of St. John. * Lily Lake is about 1 M. from King Square, and is reached by cross- ing the Valley and ascending Portland Heights. The road which turns to the r. from the white (Zion) church conducts past several villas and rural estates. From its end a broad path diverges to the r., leading in a few minutes to the lake, a beautiful sheet of Avater suiTOunded by high rocky- banks. The envix'ons are thickly studded with clumps of arbor-vitse and evergreens, among which run devious rambles and pathways. No houses or other signs of civilization are seen on the shores, and the citizens wish to preserve this district in its primitive beauty by converting it into a pub- lic park. The water is of rare purity, and was used for several years to supply the city, being pumped up by expensive machinery. This is a favorite place for skating early in the season, and at that time presents a scene of great activity and interest. A pleasant pathway leads on one side to the Lihj Lal'e Falls, which are attractive in time of high water. The Marsh Boad is the favorite drive for the citizens of St. John, and presents a busy scene on pleasant Sundays and during the season of sleigh- ing. It is broad, firm, and level, and follows the (supposed) ancient bed of the St. John River. At Ih M. from the city the Bural Cemetery is reached (only lot-owners are admitted on Sunday). This is a pleasant ground occupying about 12 acres along a cluster of high, rocky knoUs, audits roads curve gracefully through an almost unbroken forest of old (but small) evergi-eeu trees. The chief point of interest is along Ocean Avenue, where beneath uniform monuments are buried a large number of sailors. Ij M. beyond the Cemetery the Marsh Road passes the Three- ^lile House and Jfooscpath Park, a half-mile course which is much u?cd for horse-racing, especially during the month of August. 3 - 4 il. farther on (with the Intercolonial Railway always near at hand) the road reaches the Torryhurn House, near the usual course for boat-racing on the broad Kennebecasis Bay. The course of this estuary is now followed for 2 M., with the high cliff called the Minister'' s Face on the farther shore. Pass- ing several country-seats, the tourist arrives at Rothesay, prettily situated on the Kennebecasis. This village is a favorite place of summer i-esidence for families from the city, and has numerous yillas and picnic grounds. The facilities for boating and bathing are good. Near the railway station is Rothesay Hall, a summer hotel, accommodating 30-40 guests ($8-10 a week). There are pleasant views from this point, including the broad and lake-like Kennebecasis for many miles, the palisades of the Minister's Face, and the hamlet of Moss Glen. Loch Lomond is about 11 M. N. E. of St. John, and is a favorite resort for its citizens. Many people go out to the lake on Saturdaj^ and remain there until IMonday morning. The road crosses the Marsh Bridge and passes near the Silver Falls, a pretty cascade on Little River (whence the THE ENVIRONS OF ST. JOHN. Route 2. 23 city draws its water supply). There are two small hotels near Loch Lomond, of which Bunker's is at the lower end and DalzelFs is 3-4 M. be- yond, or near the head of the First Lake. These waters are much re- sorted to by trout-fishers, and the white trout that are found nearDalzell's Lake House are considered a delicacy. Boats and tackle are furnished at the hotels ; and there is good shooting in the vicinity. The shores con- sist, for the most part, of low rolling hills, covered with forests. The First Lake is 4 x ^ M. in area, and is connected by a short stream with the Second Lake, which is nearly 2 M. long, and very narrow. The Third Lake is smaller than either of the others. " An elevated ridge of hard-wood land, over which the road passes near the nar- rowest part^ afforded me from its summit a view of the lower lake, which would not suffer in comparison with many either of our English or our Scottish lakes. Its surface was calm and still ; beyond it rose a wooded ridge of rounded hills, purpled by the broad-leaved trees which covered them, and terminated at the foot of the lake by a lofty, so-called Lion's Back, lower considerably than Arthur's Seat, yet still a miniature Ben Lomond." — Prop. Johnston. Ben Lomond, Jones, Taylor's, and other so-called lakes (being large forest-ponds) are situated in this neighborhood, and afford better fishing facilities than the much- visited waters of Loch Lomond. Both white and speckled trout are caught in great numbers from rafts or floats on these ponds ; and Bunker's or Dalzell's affords a favorable headquarters for the sportsman, where also more particular information may be obtained. The Penitentiary is a granite building 120 ft. long, situated in an in- walled tract of 18 acres, on the farther side of Courtenay Bay, The Poor Hovse is a spacious brick building in the same neighborhood. The road that passes these institutions is prolonged as far as MispecTc, traversing a diversified country, and at times affording pretty views of the Bay of Fundy. Mispeck is a small marine hamlet, 10 M. from St. John. 4 M. N. of the city is the estate of the Highland Park Company, an asso- ciation of citizens who have united for the purpose of securing rural homes in a beautiful and picturesque region. There are three lakes on the tract (which includes 500 acres), the chief of which is Howe's Lake, a small but pretty forest-pond. The * Suspension Bridge is about 1 J M. from King Square, and most of the distance may be traversed by horse-cars, passing through the town of Portland and under Fort Howe Hill (whence a good view of the city is afforded). The bridge crosses the rocky gorge into which the wide waters of the St. John River are compressed, at a height of nearly 100 ft. above low water. The rush of the upward tide, and the falls which become visible at low tide, fill the stream with seething eddies and whirls and render navigation impossible. At a certain stage of the flood-tide, and for a few minutes only, this gorge may be passed by vessels and rafts. The St. John River is over 450 M. long, and, with its many tributaries, drains a vast extent of country. Yet, at this point, where its waters are emptied into the harbor, the outlet of the river is narrowed to a channel which is in places but 450 ft. wide, with cliffs of limestone 100 ft. high hemming it in on either side. The stream rushes through this narrow pass with great impetuosity, and its course is further disturbed by several rocky islets. The tides in the harbor rise to a height of 22-26 24 Route 2. THE EXA'IKONS OF ST. JOHN. ft. , and rush up the riyer with such force as to overflow the fells and produce level water at flood-tide. The bridge was built in 1852 by an American engineer, and cost S SO.lXXX It is t>iO ft. long and contains 570 M. of wire, supported on 4 slender but solid towers. One-horse carriages pay 13c. toll ; 2-horse carriages, 20c. Over the head of the bridge, on the Carleton shore, is the Provincial Lunatic Asylum, an extensive brick buildhig with long wings, situated in pleasant grounds. Its elevated situation renders it a prominent object in approaching the city from almost any direction. The building was erected in 1S48, and accommodates 200 patients. From this vicinity, or from the bridge, are seen the busy manufacturing villages about Indiantown and Point Pleasant, most of which are engaged in the lumber business. On the summit of the highest hill in Carleton is a venerable and pic- turesque stone tower, which gives an antique and feudal air to the land- scape. It is known as the Martello Tower, and was built for a harbor- defence at the time when this peculiar kind of fortification was favored by the British War Otfice. Many of these works may be seen along the shores of the British Isles, but they are now used (if used at all) only as coast-guard stations. The tower in Carleton is under the charge of a sub- officer, and near by are seen the remains of a hill-battery, with a few old guns still in position. The *view from this point is broad and beautiful, including St. John, with the Victoria Hotel and the Cathedral most prom- inent, Portland and the Fort Howe Hill, the wharves of Carleton and its pretty churches, the harbor and shipping, the broad Bay of Fundy, ex- tending to the horizon, and in the S. the blue shores of Nova Scotia (the Korth Mt.), with the deep gap at the entrance to the Annapolis Basin, called the Digby Gut. The streets of Carleton are as yet in a transition state, and do not invite a long sojourn. On the hill near the ^Martello Tower is the tall and grace- ful Church of the Assumption, with pleasant grounds, in which is the fine building of the presbytery. Below this point is the Convent of St. Vincent, S. of which is seen the spire of St. Jude's Episcopal Church. The Fern L-edges are about 1 M. from Carleton, on the shore, and are much visited by geologists. They consist of an erratic fragment of the Old Red Sandstone epoch, and are covered with sea -weed and limpets. On clearing away the weeds and breaking the rock, the most beautiful impressions of ferns and other cryptogamoua plants are found. The Mahogany i Road affords a fine drive along the Bay shore, with a succession of broad marine views. It is gained by crossing the Suspen- sion Bridge and passing the Insane Asylum. About 4 M. from the city is the Four-Mile House, a favorite objective point for drives. The road is often followed as far as Spruce Lake, a fine sheet of water 5 M. long, and situated about 7 'M- from St. John. Perch are found here in great num- bers, but the facilities for fishing are not good. The water supply of the suburb of Carleton is drawn from this lake. 1 Mahogany, a popular adaptation of the Indian word JIanaicago/iish, applied to the neighboring Day. CAMPOBELLO. Route 3. 25 3. St. John to Eastport and St. Stephen. — Passamaquoddy Bay. The commodious vessels of the International Steamship Company leave the Reed's Point Wharf, at St. John, every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, at 8 A. m., and reach Eastport (60 M. distant) a little after noon. A connection is made there with the light steamboat Belle Broivn, which ascends Passamaquoddy Bay and the St. Croix River to St. Andrews and St. Stephen. Travellers who wish to gain a thorough idea of the quaintly picturesque scenery of Passamaquoddy Bay would do well to go to St. Stephen by Route 3 and return to St. John by Route 5, or vice versa. Except during very stormy weather the ■waters of Passamaquoddy Bay are quiet and without much swell. After leaving St. John, the steamer runs S. W. into the Bay of Fundy, and soon passes Split Book, and stretches across to Point Lepreau. The peculiarities of the coast, which is always visible (in clear weather) on the N., are spoken of in Eoute 5, and are thus epitomized by Mr. Warner : " A pretty bay now and then, a rocky cove with scant foliage, a light- house, a rude cabin, a level land, monotonous and without noble forests, — this was New Brunswick as we coasted along it under the most favorable circumstances." After passing the iron-bound islets called the Wolves (where the New England Avas wrecked in 1872), the steamer runs in towards the West Isles, whose knob-like hills rise boldly from the blue waters. Sometimes she meets, in these outer passages, great fleets of fishing-boats, either drifting over schools of fish, or, with their white and red sails stretched, pursuing their prey. If such a meeting occurs during one of the heavy fogs which so often visit this coast, a wonderfully weird effect is caused by the sudden emergence and disappearance of the boats in the dense white clouds. Soon after passing the White Horse islet, the steamer enters the Eastern Passage, and runs to the S. W. into Friar's Eoad. On the r. is Deer Isle, a rugged island, 7 M. long by 3 M. Avide, Avith a poor soil and no good harbors. There are about 1,000 inhabitants on this island, and it is surrounded by an archipelago of isolated rocky peaks. The shores attain an elevation of 300 ft., and from some of the higher hills are gained beau- tiful panoramic views of the Passamaquoddy Bay, on one side, and the Bay of Fundy, on the other. Campobello Island lies on the left side of the course, with bold and rocky shores. It is 8 M. long by 3 M. Avide, and contains numerous profitable farms. On its N. point is a lighthouse, below which is the entrance to the fine harbor of Welchpool, Avhere there is a pretty marine village. Wilson's Beach is a populous fishing-settlement on the S. shore; and the island contains over 1,000 inhabitants. The surrounding waters are rich in fisheries, especially of herring and haddock, Avhich are fol- lowed by the island flotillas; and the hills are said to yield copper, lead, and plaster. The proximity of the lower shores to the American towns 2 2G Route 3. EASTPORT. of Lubec and Eastport affords favorable opportunities for smuggling, which was formerly practised to a considerable extent. The island is frequently visited by summer tourists, on account of the fine marine scenery on its ocean front and for the sport afibrded by the deep-sea fishing. Some years ago there -was much talk of erecting a first-class hotel on the east shore, but the project now lies in abeyance. The view from the abrupt heights of Brucler's Hill embraces a wide expanse of blue waters, studded with an archipelago of islets. On the W. shore is the singular group of rocks known as the Fnar's Face, which has been a favorite target for marine artillerj^ The earliest settlement on the Bay was established about 1770, by the Campo- bello Company, and was located at Harbor de Lute, on Campobello Island. It was named Warrington, but the Welchpool settlement has long since surpassed it. The island was for some time the property of Capt. Owen, of the Royal Nary, to whom the residents paid tenants' dues. At certain stages of the tide, Eastport can only be approached by passing around Campobello, concerning which Mr. Warner in- dulges in the following pleasantry : " The possession by the British of the island of Campobello is an insufferable menace and impertinence. I write with a full knowl- edge of what war is. We ought to instantly dislodge the British from Campobello. It entirely shuts up and commands our harbor, — one of our chief Eastern har- bors and war stations, where we keep a flag and cannon and some soldiers, and where the customs officers look out for smuggling. There is no way to get into our own harbor, except in favorable circumstances of the tide, without begging the courtesy of a passage through British waters. Why is England permitted to stretch along down our coast in this straggling and inquisitire manner ? She might almost as well own Long Island. It was impossible to prevent our cheeks mantling with shame as we thought of this, and saw ourselves, free American citizens, landlocked by alien soil in our own harbor. We ought to have war, if war is necessary to pos- sess Campobello and Deer Islands, or else we ought to give the British Eastport. I am not sure but the latter would be the better course." Eastport {*Passamaquoddij House, $2.50 a day; Tutik's Hotel, $2) is an American border-town, on the coast of IMaine, and has 3,738 inhabi- tants and 8 churches. It is built on the slope of a hill at the E. end of Moose Island, in Passamaquoddy Bay, and is engaged in the fisheries and the coasting-trade. Over the village are the ramparts of Fort Sullivan, a garrisoned post of the United States, commanding the harbor with its artiller}'. Eastport is much visited in summer for the sake of the salt- water fishing and the unique marine scenery in the vicinity, and has sev- eral reputable boarding-houses. It is connected with the mainland by a bridge, over which lies the road to the Indian village. Eastport is the most convenient point from which to reach Campobello, Grand ]\Ianan (see Route 4), and the adjacent islands. A steam-feny runs hence in 3 M. to Lubec {Lubec House, Cobscooh Hotel), a picturesque marine village to- wards Quoddy Head, with advantages for summer residents. This pleasant little place is decaying slowly, having lost over 400 inhabitants between 1860 and 1870. The present population is a little over 2,000. Lubec is 1 M. farther E. than Eastport, and is therefore the easternmost town of the United States. The purple cliffs of Grand Manan are seen from Quoddy Head. EASTPORT. Routes. 27 In 1684 the Passamaquoddy islands -n-ere granted by the King of France to Jean Sarreau de St. Aubin. In the summer of 1704 the few French settlers about Passa- maquoddy Bay were plundered by an expedition under Col. Church, consisting of 600 Massachusetts soldiers, escorted by the men-of-war Jersey, 48, and Gosport, 32. They ascended the St. Croix as far as the head of navigation, then returned and crossed the bay to ravage the Minas settlements. They visited Moose Island and the adjacent main, and carried off all the settlers as prisoners. Eighteen years later a Boston ship was captured by the Indians among these islands, but was retaken by its crew when a fair wind arose. In 1744 Massachusetts declared war against the Indians on this bay and on the St. John River ; and in 1760 the tribes sued for peace, sending hostages to Boston. In 1734 Gov. Belcher (of Mass.) visited the bay, and in 1750 and 1762 its shores and islands were regularly surveyed. During the War of the Revolution the Passamaquoddy Indians were loyal to the United States, and declined all offers from the British agents. The boundary question began to assume great importance after the close of the war. The treaty stipulated that the St. Croix River should form the frontier ; but Massachusetts, supported by the Indians, claimed that the Magaguadavic was the true St. Croix ; while Great Britain asserted and proved that the outlet of the Schoodic Lakes was the veritable river. The islands were surrendered to Britain; but Moose, Dudley, and Frederick Islands were restored to the United States in 1818. Eastport was founded about 1784, by fishermen from the coast of Essex County, Mass., who settled here on account of the facilities for catching and curing fish. In 1808 the walls of Fort Sullivan were raised, and a detachment of troops was sta- tioned there. In 1813 the valuable British vessel, the Eliza Ann, was captured by the privateer Timothy Pickering and sent into Eastport. She was followed by H. M. S. Martin, whose commander demanded her surrender, on pain of destroying the town. The citizens refused to release the prize, and the Martin opened fire on Eastport, but was soon driven away by the guns of the fort. July 11, 1814, a Brit- ish fleet appeared off the town, and informed the commander that if he did not haul down his flag within five minutes they would bombard the town. The flag came down, the garrison laid down their arms, and the hostile fleet, headed by the Rami- lies, 74, anchored off the town. British martial law was enforced here for the next four years, after which the place was restored to the United States. The steamer Belle Brown, in ascending the bay, runs for some distance between Deer Isle and Moose Island. At about 5 M. from Eastport, Pleasant Point (known to the Indians as Syhaik) is seen on the 1. Here is the chief settlement of the Passamaquoddy Indians, who were driven from the peninsula of St. Andrews nearly a century ago, and received their present domain from the American government. They are about 400 in number, and draw an annuity and a school-fund from the Republic. They are the remnant of the ancient Openango tribe of the Etchemin nation, and they cling tenaciously to the faith delivered unto them of old by the Jesuits. Their church is dedicated to St. Anne, and is served by Indian deacons ; and the pictu- resque cemetery is in the same vicinity. They support themselves by hunting, fish- ing, and basket-making, and their favorite amusement is dancing, for which they have built a hall. There are scarcely any pure-blooded Indians here, but the adulteration has been made with a choicer material than among the other tribes, since these are mostly French half-breeds, in distinction from the negro half-breeds of the lower coasts. Many years ago there was a controversy about the chieftaincy, in consequence of which a portion of the tribe seceded, and are now settled on the Schoodic Lakes. The name Passamaquoddy is said to be derived from Pesmo-acadie, " pollock- place." Others say that Quoddy means "pollock"; but Father Vetromile, the scholarly Jesuit missionary, claims that the whole word is a corruption of the Indian Peskamaquontik, derived from Peskadaminkkanti, a term which signifies "it goes up into the open field." 28 Route I GRAND MANAN. As the bay is entered, above Pleasant Point, the "West Isles are seen opening on the r., displaying a great variety of forms and combinations. On the 1. are the pleasant shores of Perry, and far across, to the r., are the highlands about the Magaguadavic River. After passing Navy Island, the boat rounds in at St. Andrews. St. Andrews, the St. Croix River, and St. Stephen, see pages 33-36. 4. Grand Manan. This " paradise of cliffs " is situated off Quoddy Head, about 7 M. from the Maine coast, and pertains to the Province of New Brunswick. It is easily reached from Eastport (dux-ing fair winds), with which it has a mail communication. The summer climate would be delicious were it not for the fogs ; and it is claimed that invalids suffering from gout and dyspepsia receive much benefit here (very likely from the enforced abstinence from rich food). The brooks and the many fresh- water ponds afford fair trouting and bird-shooting, and a few deer and rabbits are found in the woods. There are no bears nor reptiles on the island. There is a small inn at Grand Harbor, but the sojourner will prefer to get board in some of the private houses. Neat rooms and simple fare may there be obtained for S 4 - 7 a week. " As we advanced, Manan gradually rose above the waves and changed its aspect, the flat-topped purple wall being transmuted into brown, rugged, perpendicular cliffs, crowned with dark green foliage. Passing, as we did, close in by the extreme northern point, we were impressed by its beauty and grandeur, which far exceeds even that of the cliffs at Mount Desert. *' As a place of summer resort, Grand Manan is in some respects unequalled. At certain seasons the fog is abundant, yet that can be endured. Here the opportuni- ties for recreation are unequalled, and all persons fond of grand sea-shore views may indulge their taste without limit. The people are invariably kind and trust- worthy, and American manners and customs prevail to such an extent that travel- lers at once feel at home." (De Costa.) The island of Grand Manan is 22 M. long and 3-6 M. wide, and lies in the mouth of the Bay of Fundy, -whose powerful tides SAveep impetuously by its shores. It has about 1,500 inhabitants, who dwell along the road which connects the harbors on the E. shore, and are famous for their daring and expertness in the fisheries. They have 3 schools, 5 churches (mostly Baptist), and a military organization; wiiile the advantages of free-trade, insignificant taxation, government-built roads, and complete self-legislation, give reason for the apostrophe, " Happy Mananites, who, free from grinding taxation, now rove out from rock-bound coves, and quarry at will in the silvery mines of the sea! " The harbors on the E. shore afford safe shelter for small vessels, and are connected with the great cliff's on the W. by narrow roads through the woods. The fisheries of cod, herring, and haddock are very extensive in this vicinity, and form the chief resource of the people, who are distinguished for the quaint sim- plicity which usually pertains to small and insulated maritime communi- ties. Grand Manan has been for many years a favorite resort for Amer- ican marine painters, who find excellent studies in its picturesque cliff's and billowy seas. It was visited by Champlain in 1605, but was occupied only by the Indians for 180 years after. Col. Allan, the American com- mander in E. Maine during the Revolution, held the island with his Indian GRAND MA NAN. Route 4. 29 auxiliaries, but it was finally ceded to Great Britain. After the war it was settled by several Loyalists from Massachusetts, chief among whom was Moses Gerrish. A recent writer demands that the island be fortified and developed, claiming that its situation, either for commerce or war, is strategically as valuable as those of the Isle of Man, Guernsey, and Jersey, and that it would make a fine point of attack against Portland and the coast of Maine. Grand Harbor is the chief of the island hamlets, and is situated on the safe and shallow bay of the same name. It has an Episcopal church of stone and two or three stores, besides a small inn. Off shore to the S. E. lie Ross, Cheyne, and White Head Islands, on the latter of which Audu- bon studied the habits of the herring-gulls, in 1833. To the E. are the rock-bound shores of Nantucket Island, and on the S. are the Grand Ponds. The, South Shore is reached by a good road leading down from Grand Harbor. At 5 M. distance is the narrow harbor of Seal Cove, beyond which the road lies nearer to the sea, affording fine marine views on the 1., including the Wood Islands and the Gannet Rock Lighthouse, 9-10 M. at sea. 4 M. beyond Seal Cove the road reaches Broad Cove, whence a path leads across the downs for about 2 M. to the high and ocean- viewing cliffs of S. W. Head. Among the rugged and surf-beaten rocks of this bold promontory is one which is called the Old Maid, from its rude resemblance to a colossal woman. About the S. W. Head is a favor- ite resort and breeding-place of the gulls, whose nests are made in the grass. A forest -path leads N. to Bradford's Cove, on the W. shore, a wide bight of the sea in which the ship Mavourneen was wrecked. The North Shore. The road from Grand Harbor to Whale Cove is 7-8 M. long, and is firm and well-made. 3 M. N. of Grand Harbor, Wood- ward's Cove is passed, with its neat hamlet, 4 M. beyond which is Flagg's Cove. Sprague's Cove is a pretty fishing-hamlet on the S. side of Swal- low-Tail Head, where "everything appears to have been arranged for artistic effect. The old boats, the tumble-down storehouses, the pic- turesque costumes, the breaking surf, and all the miscellaneous para- phernalia of such a place, set off as they are by the noble background of richly-colored cliffs, produce an effect that is as rare as beautiful." Swallow-Tail Head is a fan-shaped peninsula, surrounded by wave-worn cliffs, and swept by gales from every quarter. On its outer point is a lighthouse which holds a fixed hght (visible for 17 M.) 148 ft. above the sea. Whale Cove is on the N. E. shore, and is bordered by a shingle-beach on which are found bits of porphyry, agate, jasper, and other minerals. " Here the view is surprisingly fine, the entire shore being encircled by immense cliffs that rise up around the border of the blue waves, with a richness of color and stateliness of aspect that cannot fail to impress the 30 Routes. GRAND MANAN. beholder On the E. side is Fish Head, and on the "W. Eel Brook and Northern Head, the latter extending out beyond its neighbor, and be- tween are the blue sky and -water." On the melancholy cliffs at Eel Brook Cove the ship Lord Ashburton was wrecked, and nearly all on board were lost (21 of them are buried at Flagg's Cove). Beyond this point, and near the extreme northern cape, is the Bishop's Head, so called because of a vague profile in the face of the cliff. The W. coast of Grand ^lanan is lined w^ith a succession of massive cliffs, which appear from West Quoddy like a long and unbroken purple wall. These great precipices are 3 - 400 ft. high (attaining their greatest eleva- tion at the N. end), and fonn noble combinations of marine scenery. A cart-track leads across the island from near "Woodward's Cove to the ro- mantic scenery about Day^k Cove ; near which is ]\Ioney Cove, so named because search has been made there for some of Capt. Kidd's buried treasures. To the N. is Indian Beach, whei-e several lodges of the Passa- maquoddy tribe pass the summer, attending to the sliore fishery of por- poises. Still farther N. are the rocky palisades and whirling currents of Long's Eddy. " When the cliff is brought out on such a stupendous scale as at Grand Manan, with all the accessories of a wild ocean shore, the interest becomes absorbing. The other parts of the island are of course invested with much interest. The low eastern shore, fringed with small islands and rocks, affords many picturesque sights. In a pleasant day a walk southward has many charms. The bright sky, the shingle beach, the picturesque boats, and blue land-locked bays continually enforce the admiration of an artistic eye, and allure the pedestrian on past cape, cove, and reach, until he suddenly finds that miles of ground intervene between him and his dinner." (De Costa.) " Grand Manan, a favorite summer haunt of the painter, is the verj" throne of the bold and romantic. The high precipitous shores, but for the woodswhich beau- tify them, are quite in the style of Labrador." (L. L. Noble. ) Charlevoix speaks of an old-time wonder which seems to have passed away from these shores : " It is even asserted that at f of a league off Isle Menane, which serves as a guide to vessels to enter St. John's River, there is a rock, almost always cov- ered by the sea, which is of lapis-laznli. It is added that Commander de Razilli broke off a piece, which he sent to France, and Sieur Denys, who had seen it, says that it was valued at ten crowns an ounce." 5. St. Jolm to St. Andrews and St. Stephen.— Passama- quoddy Bay. The steamer leaves the Reed's Point Wharf every Thursday and Saturday, at 8 A.M., and reaches St. Stephen before dark. She returns from St. Stephen every Monday and Friday morning. Fares, St. John to St. George, $ 1.75 ; to St. An- drews, $ 1.50 ; to St. Stephen, $ 1.75. This route was served in 1874 by the famous Cuban blockade-runner Edgar Stuart, but another vessel wiU run here in 1875. St. John to St. Andrews by stage. The Royal Mail traverses this route daily over roads which are rugged and tire- some. Distances : St. John to Fairville, 2^ M. •, Spruce Lake, 7 ; Prince of Wales, 11 ; Musquash, 14; Lepreau, 25; New River, 33; Pennfield, 39; St. George, 45; Bocabec, 55; St. Andrews, 65. Fare, $4. The Bay Shore Railway is a new line which was recently projected, and is intended to follow the direction of this mail- route. BAY OF FUNDY. Routed. 31 After leaving the harbor of St. John the steamer runs S. W. by W. 9J M., passing the openings of Manawagonish Bay and Pisarinco Cove. The course is laid well out in the Bay -of Fundy, which "wears a beautiful aspect in fine summer weatlier, — a soft chalky hue quite different from the stern blue of the sea on the Atlantic shores, and somewhat approach- ing the summer tints of the channel on the coast of England." Beyond the point of Split Rock, Musquash Harbor is seen opening to the N. It is a safe and beautiful haven, 2 M. long and very deep, at whose head is the pretty Episcopal village of Musquash (Musquash Hotel), with several lum- ber-mills. About two centuries ago a French war-vessel was driven into this harbor and destroyed by a British cruiser. From Split Rock the course is W. ^ S. for 11^ M. to Point Lepreau, passing the openings of Chance Harbor and Dipper Harbor, in which are obscure marine hamlets. In the latter, many years ago, the frigate Plumper was Avrecked, with a large amount of specie on board. The harbor is now visited mostly by lobster-fishers. Point Lepreau is a bold and tide-swept promontory, on which are two fixed lights, visible for 18 and 20 M. at sea. The traveller will doubtless be amazed at the rudeness and sterility of these frown- ing shores. " Two Tery different impressions in regard to the Province of New Brunswick will be produced on the mind of the stranger, according as he contents himself with visiting the towns and inspecting the lands which lie along the sea- board, or ascends its rivers, or penetrates by its numerous roads into the interior of its more central and northern counties. In the former case he will feel like the traveller who enters Sweden by the harbors of Stockholm and Gottenburg, or who sails among the rocks on the western coast of Norway. The naked cliffs or shelving shores of granite or other hardened rocks, and the unvarying pine forests, awaken in his mind ideas of hopeless desolation, and poverty and bari-enness appear neces- sarily to dwell within the iron-bound shores But on the other hand, if the stranger penetrate beyond the Atlantic shores of the Province and travel through the interior, he will be struck by the number and beauty of its rivers, by the fertility of its river islands and intervales, and by the great extent and excellent condition of its roads." (Prof. J. F. W. Johnston, F. R. S.) From Point Lepreau the course is laid nearly W. for 16| M. to Bliss Island, crossing the bight of Mace's Bay, a wide and shallow estuary in which are two fishing-hamlets. The Saturday steamer stops on this reach at Beaver Harbor, a place of 150 inhabitants. S. of this hai'bor, and seen on the 1. of the course, are the five black and dangerous islets called the Wolves, much dreaded by navigators. A vessel of the International Steam- ship Company was wrecked here two or three years ago. One of the Wolves bears a revolving light. 111 ft. high, and visible for 16 M. The steamer now rounds Bliss Island (which has a fixed red light), and to the N. is seen the entrance to DEtang Harbor, a deep and picturesque inlet which is well sheltered by islands, the largest of which is called Cai- tifi". A few miles S. W. are seen the rolling hills of Campobello; Deer Island is nearer, on the W. ; and the bay is studded with weird-looking hummocky islands, — the Nubble, White, and Spruce Islands, the grim trap-rock mamelon of White Horse, and many other nameless rocks. They are known as the West Isles, and most of them are inhabited by 32 Routed. ST. GEORGE. hard-working fishermen. The course is laid to the N. W. through the Letite Passage, between MacMaster Island and the Peninsula of Masca- rene, and Fassamaquoddy Bay is entered. Sweeping up to the N., along and close to a bold shore 150-225 ft. high, the steamer rounds the Mijic Bluff on the r. and enters the harbor at the mouth of the Magaguadavic River. To the N. are the wooded slopes of Mount Blair, and some distance up the estuary is the hamlet of Mascarene. The vessel drifts about in the harbor while passengers and freight are transferred to the dingy little steamer that ascends to St. George. St. George (three inns) is a town of 600 inhabitants, devoted to the lumber-trade, and situated about 10 M. from the mouth of the river. It has 4 churches, a masonic hall, and a custom-house. It is at the head of tide, and ships can load, in the deep water below, all the year round. This district has recently become celebrated for its production of a fine granite, of a rose-red color, which receives a high polish, and is being introduced for ornamental columns and monuments. It resembles the beautiful Scotch granite of Peterhead (populai-ly called "Aberdeen gran- ite"). At St. George are the "^ Loioer Falls of the Magaguadavic, where the river is compressed into a chasm 30 ft. wide, and falls 100 ft. in five successive steps. Along the sides of the gorge are several powerful saw- mills, clinging to the rocks like eagles' nests, and sluicing their lumber into the deep pools below. Geologists have found, in this vicinity, marked evidences of the action of icebergs and glaciers. "The village, the cataract, the lake, and the elevated wilderness to the N., render this part of the country peculiarly picturesque ; indeed, the neighborhood of St. George, the Digdeguash, Chamcook, and the lower St. Croix, present the traveller with some of the finest scenery in America." (Dr. Gesner.) !Lake Utopia is picturesquely situated in a deep and sheltered depression among forest-covered hills, along whose slopes ledges of red granite crop out here and there. It is about 4 M. from St. George, and is 6 M. long by 1- 2 M. wide. The road from Beaver Harbor to Gagetown follows its E. shore through an almost unbroken soli- tude. On a bluff over this lake the earliest pioneers found the remains of an ancient and mysterious temple, all traces of which have now passed away. Here also was found a slab of red granite, bearing a large bas-relief of a human head, in style re- sembling an Egyptian sculpture, and having a likeness to Washington. This re- markable medallion has been placed in the Natural History Museum at St. John. For nearly 40 years the Indians and lumbermen near the lake have told marvellous stories of a marine prodigy called " the Monster of Utopia," which dwells in this fair forest-loch. His last appearance was in 1867, when several persons about the shores claimed to have seen furious disturbances of the waters, and to have caught momentary glimpses of an animal 10 ft. thick and 30 ft. long. The lake abounds in gilvery-gray trout, and its tributary streams contain many brook-trout and smelt. Among the hills along the valley of the Magaguadavic River are the favorite haunts of large numbers of Virginian deer. Moose were formerly abundant in this region, and it is but a few years since over 400 were killed in one season, for the sake of their hides. This noble game animal has been nearly exterminated by the merciless set- tlers, and will soon become extinct in this district. The Magaguadavic Kiver (an Indian name meaning "The River of the Hills") rises in a chain of lakes over 80 M. N. W., within a short portage of the Sheogomoc River, a tributary of the upper St. John. Traversing the great Lake of Magaguadavic it descends through an uninhabited and barren highland region, tersely described by an early pioneer as " a scraggly hole." Much of its lower valley is a wide intervale, which is supposed to have been an ancient lake-bottom. The river is followed closely by a rugged road, which leads to the remote Harvey and Magaguadavic settlements. ST. ANDREWS. Routed. 33 After leaving the port of St. George, the steamer runs S. W. across Pas- samaquoddy Ba}', with the West Isles and the heights of Deer Island on the S., and other bold hummocks on either side. On the N. are the estua- ries of the Digdeguash and Bocabec River?, and the massive ridge of the Chamcook Mt. Large fleets of fishing-boats are sometimes met in these waters, following the schools of herring or pollock. In about an hour, the steamer approaches St. Andrews, passes its great summer hotel, and lands between Navy Island and the peninsula. St. Andrews {Central Exchange, 81.50 a day), the capital of Charlotte County, is finely situated on a peninsula at the mouth of the St. Croix River, which is here 2 M. wide. It has about 1,800 inhabitants, and a few quiet old streets, surrounded by a broad belt of farms. The town was founded about a century ago, and soon acquired considerable commercial importance, and had large fleets in its harbor, loading with timber for Great Britain and the West Indies. This era of prosperity' was ended by the rise of the town of St. Stephen and by the operation of the Reciprocity Treaty, and for many years St. Andrews has been retrograding, until now the wharves are deserted and dilapidated, and the houses seem antiquated and neglected. It has recently attracted summer visitors, on account of the pleasant scenery and the facilities for boating, fishing, and excursions among the adjacent islands. A large and handsome summer hotel has been erected near the shore, but the enterprise of the town has not been able to furnish it, so that it is not eligible to tourists, who must therefore dwell at the village inns. Steamboats run daily between St. Andrews and Eastport, Calais, and St. Stephen. There is a ferry to the American Tillage of Robbinston, 2 M distant. The New Brunswick and Canada Railway runs thence to Houlton and Woodstock, 90 and 93 M. N. (See Route 6.) The Chamcook Mt. is about 6 M. X. of St. Andrew, and its base is reached by a good road (visitors can also go by railway to the foot of the mountain). It is often ascended by parties for the sake of the beautiful view, which includes " the lovely Passamaquoddy Bay, with its little islands and outline recalling recollections of the Gulf of Naples as seen from the summit of Vesuvius, whilst the scenery toward the X. is hilly, with deep intervening troughs containing natural tarns, where the togue or gray-spotted trout is plentiful." The bright course of the St. Croix River is visible for a long distance, and numerous pretty frontier-villages are seen on either shore. " The glacial rounded top " of Chamcook is scored with the long scratches which indicate that at some remote age a glacier from the northern highlands has grated and ground its way across the moun- tain. The views of the Chamcook Lake and Harbor, and of the numerous conical hills to the X. , are of much interest. As the steamer swings out into the river, the little ship-building village of RobUr^ston is seen, on the American shore. On the r. the bold blufis of " 2t . ' ,c 34 Routes. ST. CROIX RIVER. Chamcook Mt. are passed, and occasional fai*m-houses are seen along the shores. 5-6 M. above St. Andrews, the steamer passes, on the E. side of Doucet's Island, on which a lighthouse has been erected by the Ameri- can government. W. of the island is the village of Red Beach, with its plaster-mills, and on the opposite shore is the farming settlement of Bay Shore. In the year 1604 Henri TV. of France granted a large part of America to Pierre du Guast, Sieur de Monts, and Governor of Pons. This tract extended from Phila- delphia to Quebec, and Avas named Acadie, which is said to be deriT^d from a local Indian word. De Monts sailed from Havre in April, -with a motley company of im- pressed vagabonds, gentlemen-adventurers, and Huguenot and Catholic clergymen, the latter of whom quarrelled all the way over. After exploring parts of Nova Scotia and the Bay of Fundy. the voyagers ascended the Passamaquoddy Bay and the river to St. Croix Isle, where it was determined to found a settlement. Bat- teries were erected at each end, joined by palisades, within which were the houses of De Monts and Champlain, workshops, magazines, the chapel, and the barracks of the Swiss soldiery. But the winter soon set in with its intense cold, and the rav- ages of disease were added to the miseries of the colonists. 35 out of 79 men died of the scurvy during the winter ; and when a supply-ship arrived from France, in June, the island was abandoned. "It is meet to tell you how hard the isle of Sainte Croix is to be found out to them that never were there ; for there are so many isles and great bays to go by (from St. John) before one be at it, that I wonder how one might ever pierce so far as to find it. There are three or four mountains imminent above the others, on the sides ; but on the N. side, from whence the river runneth down, there is but a sharp pointed one, above two leagues distant. The woods of the main land are fair and admirable high, and well grown, as in like manner is the grass Now let us pre- pare and hoist sails. M. de Poutrincourt made the voyage into these parts, with some men of good sort, not to winter there, but as it were to seek out his seat, and find out a land that might like him. Which he having done, had no need to sojourn there any longer." Late in the year, " the most urgent things being done, and hoary snowy father being come, that is to say. Winter, then they were forced to keep within doors, and to live every one at his own home. During which time our men had three special discommodities in this island : want of wood (for that which ■was in the said isle was spent in buildings), lack of fresh water, and the continual watch made by night, fearing some surprise from the savages that had lodged them- selves at the foot of the said island, or some other enemy. For the malediction and rage of many Christians is such, that one must take heed of them much more than of infidels." (Lescarbot's Nouvelle France.) In 1783 the river St. Croix was designated as the E. boundary of Maine, but the Americans claimed that the true St. Croix was the stream called the Magaguadavic. It then became important to find traces of De Monts's settlement of 180 years pre- vious, as that would locate the true St. Croix River. So, after long searching among the bushes and jungle, the boundary-commissioners succeeded in finding remnants of the ancient French occupation on Neutral (Doucet's) Island, and thus fixed the line. About 10 M. above St. Andrews the river deflects to the W., and to the N. is seen the deep and spacious * Oak Bay, surrounded by bold hills, and forming a beautiful and picturesque prospect. It is supposed that the French explorers named the St. Croix River from the resemblance of its waters at this point to a cross, — the upright arm being formed by the river to the S. and Oak Bay to the N., while the horizontal arm is outlined by the river to the W. and a cove and creek on the E. At the head of the bay is the populous farming-village of Oak Bay, with three churches. Rounding on the 1. the bold bluff called Devil's Head (from one Duval, who formerly lived there), the course is laid to the N. W., in a narrow ST. STEPHEN. koute 5. 35 channel, between sterile shores. 2-3 M. above is the antiquated marine hamlet called The Ledge (1. bank), most of whose inhabitants are depend- ent on the sea for their living. 4 M. above this point the steamer reaches her dock at St. Stephen. St. Stephen ( Watson House) is an active and enterprising provincial town, situated 'at the head of navigation on the St. Croix River, opposite the American city of Calais. The population is about 5,000, with 6 churches, 2 newspapers, and 2 banks. The business of St. Stephen is mostly connected with the manufacture and shipment of lumber. The falls of the river at this point give a valuable water-power, which will probably be devoted to general manufacturing pui-poses after the lumber supply begins to fail. A covered bridge connects St. Stephen Avith Calais {International Hotel; St. Croix Exchange), a small city of the State of Maine, with 6^000 inhabitants, 7 churches, 2 weekly papers, and 2 banks. Although under different flags, and separated by lines of customs-oflicers, St. Stephen and Calais form practically but one community, with identi- cal pursuits and interests. Their citizens have always lived in perfect fraternity, and formed and kept an agreement by which they abstained from hostilities during the War of 1812. At that time the authorities also restrained the restless spirits from the back country from acts of violence across the borders. 2-3 M. above is another Canado-American town, with large lumber-mills at the falls, which is divided by the river into Milltown-St. Stephen and Milltown-Calais. Travellers who cross the river either at Calais or JNIilltown will have their baggage looked into by the customs-officers, squads of whom are stationed at the ends of the bridges. The New Brunswick & Canada Railway runs N. from St. Stephen to Houlton and Woodstock (see Route 6). Calais is connected with the Schoodic Lakes by railway, and with Eastport by stages. The U. S. Mail-stage runs daily to Bangor, 95 M. w! (fare, $ 7-50), passing through a wide tract of unoccupied wilderness. The steam- boat Belle Brown leaves Calais or St. Stephen tri-weekly for St. Andrews and East- port, where it connects with the International steamships for Portland and Boston {see also Route 3, and Osgood's Neiv England). Fares, Calais to Portland, $4.50 ; to Boston, by water, $ 5.50 ; to Boston, by rail from Portland, $ 7. The Schoodic LaTces. A railway runs 21 M. N.W. from Calais to Lew ey's Island (2 inns), in Princeton, whence the tourist may enter the lovely and picturesque Schoodic Lakes. The steamer Gipsey carries visitors 12 M. up the lake to Grand Lake Stream, one of the most famous fishing-grounds in America. The trout in Lewey's Lake have been nearly exterminated by the voracious pike, but the upper waters are more carefully guarded, and contain perch, pickerel, land-locked sahnon, lake-trout, and fine speckled-trout. The Grand Lake Stream is 3-4 M. long, and connects the Grand and Big Lakes with its rapid waters, in which are found many of the famous sil- very salmon-trout. The urban parties who visit these forest-lakes usually engage Indian guides to do the heavy work of portages and camp-build- 36 Route 6. SCHOODIC LAKES. ing, and to guide their course from lake to lake. There is a largo village of the Passamaquoddy tribe near the foot of Big Lake. A two hours' portage leads to Grand Lake, a broad and beautiful forest-sea, -with gravelly shores, picturesque islets, and transparent waters. The crj- of the loon is often heard here, and a ii^w bear and deer still lurk along the shores. From Grand Lake a labyrinth of smaller and yet more remote lakes may be entered ; and portages conduct thence to the navigable tributaries of the ]Machias and Penobscot Rivers. " One of the most picturesque portions of the western Schoodic region is Grand Lake. This noble sheet of water is broken here and there by islets, and siirrouudeii , even to the water"? edge, with forests of pine and hanl wood, whilst its bottom is covereil with granitic bowlders, which, in combination with drift, are spread far and wide among the arboreal vegetation around." *• "While the fog is lifting from Schoodic Lake, And the white tmut are leaping for flies, It s exciting sport those beauties'to take. Jogging tlie nerves and feasting the eves." Genio C. Scott. 6. St Andrews and St Stephen to Woodstock and Houlton. Bv the New Brunswick & Canada Railwav. Fare from St. Stephen to Wood- stock, 82.90. Distances. — St. Andrews to Chamcook, 5 M. ; Bartlett's. 11; Waweig, 13; Roix Road, 15; Hewitfs, 19 : Rolling Dam. 20; Dumbarton, 24; Watt Junction, 27 (.St. Stephen to Watt Junction, liM : Lawi-ence, 20: Barber Dam, 3i ; Mc.\dam Junction, 43 ; Doer Lake, 59 ; Oantorburv, Go ; Eel River, 75 ; AVickham, SO ; Debec Junction, 90 (Houlton, 9S) ; Hodgdon, 9S ; Woodstock, 101. The country travei'sed by this line is one of the most irredeemably des- olate regions in North America. The view from the car-windows pre- sents a continual succession of dead and dying forests, clearings bristling with stumps, and funereal clusters of blasted and fire-scorched tree-trunks. The traces of human habitation, which at wide intervals are seen in this gloomy land, are cabins of logs, where poverty and toil seem the fittest occupants; and Nature has Avithheld the hills and lakes with which she rudely adorns other wildernesses. The sanguine Dr. Gesner wrote a vol- ume inviting immigration to New Brunswick, and describing its domains in language Avhich reaches the outer verge of complaisant optimism ; but in presence of the lands between the upper St. John and St. Stephen his pen lost its hyperbolical fervor. He says: "Excepting the intervales of the stream, it is necessary to speak with circumspection in regard to the general quality of the lands. !Many ti-acts are fit for little else but pas- turage." This district is occupied, for the most part, by the remains of soft-wood forests, whose soils are always inferior to those of tlie hard- wood districts. For a short distance beyond St. Andrews the railway lies near the shores of Passamaquoddy Bay, aftbrdiug pleasant views to the r. Then the great mass of Chamcook Mt. is passed, with its abrupt sides and rounded summit. ^ValL'eig is between Bonaparte Lake and Oak Bay (see page 34). About 7 M. beyond, the line approaches the Digdeguash ST. JOHN TO LANGOR. Route?. 37 River, which it follows to its source. At Watt Junction the St. Stephen Branch Railway comes in on the 1., and the train passes on to McAdam Junction, where it intersects the European «& North American Railway (page 38). There is a restaurant at this station, and the passenger will have time to dine v. hile the train is waiting for the arrival of the trains from Bangor and from St. John. The forest is again entered, and the train passes on for 16 M. until it reaches the lumber-station at Deer Lake. The next station is Canter- bury (small inn), the centre of extensive operations in lumber. Running N. W. for 10 M., the Eel River is crossed near Rankin's Mills, and at Debec Junction the passenger changes for Woodstock. A train runs thence 8 M. N. W. to Houlton {Snell House., Buzzell House), the shire-town of Aroostook County, in the State of Maine (see Osgood's New England, Route 50). The other train runs N. E. down the valley of the South Brook, and in about 6 I\I. emerges on the highlands above the valley of the St. John River. For the ensuing 5 M. there are beautiful views of the river and its cultivated intervales, presenting a wonderful contrast to the dreary region behind. The line soon reaches its terminus at the pretty village of Woodstock (see Route 11). 7. St. John to Bangor. By the European & North American Railway, in 10-12 hours. Distances. — St. John; Carleton, i M. ; Fairville, 4; South Bay, 7; Grand Bay, 12; Westfield, 16; Nerepis,20; Welsford, 26; Clarendon, 30; Gaspereaux, 33; Enniskillen, 36; Iloyt, 39; .Blissville, 42; Fredericton Junction, 46; Tracy, 49; Cork, 61; Harvey, 66; Magaguadavic , 76; McAdam Junction, 85; St. Croix, 91; Vanceboro', 92; Jackson Brook, 112; Danforth, 117; Bancroft, 126; King- man, 139; Mattawamkeag, 147; Winn, 1-50; Lincoln Centre, 159; Lincoln, 161; Enfield, 170; Passadumkeag, 175; Olamon, 179; Greenbush, 182; Costigan, 187; Milford, 192; Oldtown, 193 ; Great Works, 194; Webster, 196; Orono, 197; Basin Mills, 198; Veazie, 201; Bangor, 205. (Newport, 233: Waterville, 260; Augusta, 281 ; Brunswick, 315 ; Portland, 343 ; Portsmouth, 395 ; Newburyport, 415 ; Bos- ton, 451.) The traveller crosses the Princess St. ferry from St. John to Carleton, and takes the train at the terminal station, near the landing. The line ascends through the disordered suburb of Carleton, giving from its higher grades broad and pleasing views over the city, the harbor, and the Bay of Fundy. It soon reaches Fairville, a growing town near the Provincial Lunatic Asylum and the Suspension Bridge. There are numerous lumber- mills here, in the coves of the river. The train sweeps around the South Bay on a high grade, and soon reaches the Grand Bay of the St. John River, beyond which is seen the deep estuary of the Kennebecasis Bay, with its environment of dark hills. The shores of the Long Reach ai-e fol- lowed for several miles, with beautiful views on the r. over the placid river and its vessels and villages (see also page 41). To the W. is a sparsely settled and rugged region in which are many lakes, — Loch Alva, the Robin Hood, Sherwood, and the Queen's Lakes. 3S HoiUcT. CHIPUTXETICOOK LAKES. The line leaves the Long Keaoh. and turn? to the X. W. up the valley of the Xerepis Kiver, which is followed as far as the hamlet of Wcls/ord (small inn). The country now grows very tame and unintei-esting, as the Douglas Valley is ascended. Clarendon is 7 M. tVom the Clarendon Set- tlement, with its new homes wrested fivm the savage forest. From Gas- pereaux a wagon conveys passengers to the South Oromocto Lake, 10-12 M. S. W., among the highlands, a secluded sheet of water about 5 M. long, abounding in trout. Beyond the lumber station of Enniskillen, the train passes the prosperous village of Blissville ; and at Fredencton Junction a connection is made for t>edericton, about 20 M. X. Tracy's Jfills is the next stopping-place, and is a cluster of lumber-mills on the Oromocto Kiver, which traverses the village. On eitlier side are wide tracts of unpopulated wilderness; and alter crossing the parish of New Maryland, the line enters Planners Sutton, passes the Cork Settle- ment, and stops at the Ilarvcij Settlement, a rngged district occupied by families from the borders of England and Scotland. To the X. and X. W. are the Bear and Cranberry Lakes, atVording gix->d fishing. A road leads S. 7 - 8 ;^L from Harvey to the Oromocto Lake, a fine sheet of water nearly 10 JL long and 3-4 >L wide, who.o many large trout are found. The neighboring forests contain various kinds of game. Xear the X. "\^'. shore of the lake is the small hamlet of Tweedside. The Bald Mountain, "near the Harvey Settlement, is a great mass of porphyry, with a lake (probablv in the crater) near the summit. It is on the edge of the coal measures, where they touch the slate." Magaguadavic station is at the foot of ^lagaguadavic Lake, which is about 8 M. long, and is visited by sportsmen. On its E. shore is the low and bristling Magaguadavic Kidge; and a chain of smaller lakes lies to the X. The train now runs S. W. to McAdam Junction u*»^^taurant in the sta- tion), where it intei-sects the Xew Brunswick and Canada Railway (see Eoute 6). 6 ^l. beyond McAdam, through a monotonous wilderness, is St. Croi.r, on the river of the same name. After crossing the river the train enters the United States, and is visited by the customs-officers at Vanceboro' ( CJiiputneticook House). This is the station whence the beau- tiful lakes of the upper Schoodic may be visited. The Cliipiitnetiooolv talces are about 45 M. in length, in a N. TT. conrse, and aiv fi\nu ^4 to 10 M. in width. Thoir navigation is very intricate, by reason of the nniltitnde of islets and i:>lands, nam^w passtiges, coves, and deep inlets, which, diversity of laud and water atlbnls beautiful combinations of scenery. The islands are covered with ceilar, hemlock, and birch trees; and the hold highlands which shadow the lakes are also well wooded. One of the most remarkable features of the scenery is the abundance of bowlders and ledges of fine white gi~anite, either seen throiigh the ti-auspaivut waters or lining the "shore like massive masonry. "Uni- versal gloom and srilluess reign over these lakes and the forests aixmnd them." Beyond Vauceboro' the train passes through an almost unbroken wilder- ness for 55 31., during the last 16 M. following the coarse of the Matta- ST. JOHN PJVER. Routes. 39 wamkeag River. The station of Mattaicamkeag is tit the confluence of the Mattawamkeag and Penobscot Rivei-s; and the railway from thence follows the course of the latter stream, traversing a succession of thinly- populated lumbering towns. 45 M. below Mattawamkeag, the Penobscot is crossed, and the train reaches Oldtown (two inns), a place of about 4,000 inhabitants, largely engaged in the lumber business. The traveller should notice here the immense and costly booms and mills, one of which is the largest in the Avorld and has 100 saws at work cutting out planks. On an island just above Oldtown is the home of the Tarratine Indians, formerly the most powerful and warlike of the Northern tribes. They were at first well-dis- posed towards the colonists, but after a series of wrongs and insults they took up arms in 1678, and intticted such terrible damage on the settlements that Maine be- came tributary to them by the Peace of Casco. After destroying the fortress of Pem- aquid to avenge an insult to their chief, St. Castin, they remained quiet for many years. The treaty of 1720 contains the substance of their present relations with the State. The declension of the tribe was marked for two centuries; but it is now slowly increasing. The people own the islands in the Penobscot, and have a reve- nue of .■§ 6 - 7,000 from the State, which the men eke out by working on the lumber- rafts, and by hunting and fishing, while the women make baskets and other trifles for sale. The island-village is without streets, and consists of many small houses built around a Catholic church. There are over 400 persons here, most of whom are half-breeds. Below Oldtown the river is seen to be filled with booms and rafts of timber, and lined with saw-mills. At Orono is the State Agricultural College; and soon after passing Veazie the train enters the city of Bangor. For descriptions of Bangor, the Penobscot River, and the route to Bos- ton, see Osgood's New Emjland. 8. St. John to Fredericton.— The St. John River. The steamer Rothesay, of the Express Line, leaves St. John (Indiantown) at 9 A. M on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. The steamer David Weston, of the Union Line, leaves Indiantown at 9 a. m. on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday. See also Routes 9 and 10. These vessels are comfortably fitted up for passengers, in the manner of the smaller boats on the Hudson River. Dinner is served on board ; and Fredericton is usually reached late in the afternoon. The scenery of the St. John River is pretty, and has a pleasing pastoral quiet- ness. The elements of the landscapes are simple ; the settlements are few and small, and at no time will the traveller find his attention violently drawn to any passing object. There are beautiful views on the Long Reach, at Belleisle Bay, and during the approach to Fredericton, but the prevalent character of the scenery is that of quiet and restful rural lands, by which it is pleasant to drift on a balmy svimmer-day. Certain provincial writers have done a mischief to the St. John by bestowing upon it too extravagant praise, thereby preparing a disappoint- ment for such as believed their report. One calls it " the Rhine of America," and another prefers it to the Hudson. This is wide exaggeration ; but if the traveller would enjoy a tranquillizing and luxurious journey through a pretty farming coun- try, abounding in mild diversity of scenery, he should devote a day to this river. Distances. — (The steamboat-landings bear the names of their owners, and the following itinerary bears reference rather to the villages on the shores than to the stopping-places of the boats.) St. John; Brundage's Point, 10 M. ; Westfield, 17 ; Greenwich Hill, 19 ; Oak Point, 25 ; Long Reach, 26 ; Tennant's Cove (Belleisle Bay), 29; Wickham, 32; Hampstead, 38; Otnabog, 41; Gagetown, 50; Upper Gagetown, 58 ; Maugerville, 72 ; Oromocto, 75 ; Glasier's, 81 ; Fredericton, 86. Fares. — St. John to Gagetown, $ 1 ; to Fredericton, % 1.50. 40 i^.:.rc>\ KENNEBECASIS BAY. This rirer \ras called Lcoshiool- (Long River) by the Etohemin Indians, and OuaHsoudit^ by the Micmaos. It is siip|K»seil to have Kvu visited by Pe Mout5, or other exploivrs at an early day. and iu the eonmiissiou of the year 15i^S to the Lieut -Genenil of Acadia it is called jU.j Kiviere lU la Gratnie BiiU. But no exam- ination vnis made of the iipyx^r water? until St. John's Pay. 1004, when the Fnnu-h fleet under Be Monts and routrinoourt entered the sreat river. In honor of the s;uut on whose festival the expkntition w;\s begun, it was then entitled the St. .John. At^er spending severtil weoks in ascending the stnvuu and its conneoteil waters, the discoverers saik\l away to the south, bearing a gviod i-eport of the chief river of Acadia. I>e Monts ex^^ecteil to tind by this course a near route to Tadous;ic, on the Saguenay. and theivibre s;uUxl up as fiir as the depth of ^^"ate^ would jvrmit. " The extent of this river, the fish with which it wj\s filled, the grapes growing on its banks, and the bojxuty of its scenery, wen? all objects of wonder and admiration." At a subsequent day the fieiTC struggles of the French st^-ignenrs werv wiiged on its shorts, and the invading fleets of ISew England furroweil its tranquil waters. The St. John is the chief river of the Maritime Provinces, and is over 450 >L iu length, being uavigtible for stciimers of ],0^^K> tons for 90 M.. for light-tlraught steivmers 270 M. (with a bre:\k at the Grand Falls), and for canix'S for nearly its entire extent. It takes its rise iu the great Maine forvst, near the sources of the Penobscot and the Chauditre; and from the lake which heads its S. W. Branch the Intiian com^reirrs carry their canoes aci"oss the Mej;\rmette Portage and launch them in the Chaudien.\ on which they descend to Quebec. Flowing to the N. E. for over 150 M. through the Maine forest, it receives the Allag:\sh, St. Francis, and other large sti-eams ; and from the mouth of the St. Francisnearly to the Grand Falls, a distance of 75 M., it forms the fi-ontier between the Unittxl States and Canada. It is the chief member in that grt\\t system of rivers and lakes which has won for New Brunswick the distinction of Iving •• the most finely watered country in the world." At Madawaska the course changes from X. E to S. E., and the sparsely settleil N. W. counties of the Province are travei-sed. with large tributaries coming in on either side. Puring the last 50 M. of its course it receives the waters of the great basins of the Grand and AVashadeinoak Ljvkes and the Belleisle and Kennebecasis Rays, which have a pjirallel direction to the X. E.,aud atToni good lacilitit>s for inland navigation. The tributary streams are connate*.! with those of the Gulf and of the Bay of Chaleur by short portages (^ which will be mentioned iu connection with their points of deptvrture). Immediatelr after leaving the dock at St. John a tine retrospect is given of the dark chasm below, over which is the light and graceful STispeusion-bridge. Eunning xip by Point Pleasant, the boat ascends a narrow gorge with high and abrupt banks, at whose bases are large lumber-mills. On the r. is Boar's fftad; a pictiiresque rocky promon- tory-, in whose sides are quarries of limestone; 3-4 M. above Indiantown the broad expanse of Grand Bay is entered, and South Bay is seen open ing on the 1. rear. The Kennebecasis Bay is now seen, opening to the X. E. This noble sheet of water is from 1 to 4 'M. wide, and is navigable for large vessels for over 20 M. It receives the Kennebecasis and Hammond Rivers, and contains several islands, the chief of which. Long Island, is 5 M. long, and is opposite the village of Rothesay (see page 22). The E. shore is fol- lowed for many miles by the track^Df the Intercolonial Railway. The testimony of the rocks causes scientists to believe that the St. John formerly emptied by two motiths , — through the Kennebecasis and the Marsh Valley , and through South Bay into Manawagouish Bay, — and that the bi-eaking down of the present channel tliixiugh the lofty hills W. of St. John is an event quit* recent in geological history. The Indians still preserve a tradition that this barrier of hills wjis once unbroken and served to divert the stream. LONG REACH. Route 8. 41 On the banks of the placid Kennehecasis the ancient Micmac legends locate the home of the Great Beaver, " feared by beasts and men," whom Glooscap finally conquered and put to death. In this vicinity dwelt the two Great Brothers, Gloos- cap and Malsunsis, of unknown origin and invincible power. Glooscap knew that his brother was vulnerable onlj' by the touch of a fern-root ; and he had told Mal- sunsis (falsely) that the stroke of an owl-s feather would kill him. It came to pass that Malsunsis determined to kill his brother (whether tempted thus by Mik-o, the Squirrel, or by Quah-beet-e-sis, the son of thg Great Beaver, or by his own evil am- bition) ; wherefore with his arrow he shot Koo-koo-skoos, the Owl, and with one of his feathers struck the sleeping Glooscap. Then he awoke, and reproached Malsun- sis, but afterwards told him that a blow from the root of a pine would kill him. Then the traitorous man led his brother on a hunting excursion far into the forest, and while he slept he smote him with a pine-root. But the cautious Glooscap arose unharmed, and drove Malsunsis forth into the forest ; then sat down by the brook- side and said to himself, " Naught but a flowering rush can kill me." Musquash, the Beaver, hidden among the sedge, heard these words and reported them to Mal- sunsis, who promised to do unto him even as he should ask. Therefore did' Mus- quash say, •' Give unto me wings like a pigeon." But the warrior answered, " Get thee hence, thou with a tail like a file ; what need hast thou of pigeon-s wings ? " and went on his way. Then the Beaver was angry, and went forth unto the camp of Glooscap, to whom he told what he had done. And by reason of these tidings, Glooscap arose and took a root of fern and sought Malsunsis in the wide knd gloomy forest ; and when he had found him he smote him so that he fell down dead. " And Glooscap sang a song over him and lamented." Now, therefore, Glooscap ruled all beasts and men. And there came unto him three brothers seeking that he would give them great strength and long life and much stature. Then asked he of them whether they wished these things that they might benefit and counsel men and be glorious in battle. But they said, " No; we seek not the good of men, nor care we for others." Then he offered unto them suc- cess in battle, knowledge and skill in diseases, or wisdom and subtlety in counsel. But they would not hearken unto him. Therefore did Glooscap wax angry, and said: "Go your ways; you shall have strength and stature and length of days." And while they were yet in the way, rejoicing, "lo I their feet became rooted to the ground, and their legs stuck together, and their necks shot up, and they were turned into three cedar-trees, strong and tall, and enduring beyond thedaysof men, but destitute aUke of all glory and of all use." Occasional glimpses of the railway are obtained on the 1., and on the r. is the lai'ge island of Kennebecasis, which is separated from the Kingston peninsula by the Milkish Channel. Then the shores of Land's End are passed on the r. ; and on the 1. is the estuary of the Nerepis Eiver. At this point the Ioav (but rocky and alpine) ridge of the Nerepis Hills crosses the river, running N. E. to Bull Moose Hill, near the head of Belleisle Bay. The steamer now changes her course from N. W. to N. E., and enters the Long Beach, a broad and straight expanse of the river, 16 M. long and 1-3 M. wide. The shores are high and bold, and the scenery has a lake- like character. Beyond the hamlets of Westfield and Greenwich Hill, on the 1. bank, is the rugged and forest-covered ridge known as the DeviVs Back, an oflf-spur of the minor Alleghany chain over the Nerepis Valley, Abreast of the wooded Foster's Island, on the E. shore, is a small ham- let clustered about a tall-spired chui'ch. Caton's Island is just above Fos- ter's, and in on the W. shore is seen the pretty little village of Oah Point (Lacey's inn), with a lighthouse and the spire of the Episcopal church of St. Paul. Farther up is the insulated intervale of Grassy Island, famous 42 Routes. BELLEISLE BAY. for its rich hay, which may be seen in autumn stacked all along the shore. The steamer now passes through the contracted channel off Mistaken Point, where the river is nearly closed by two narrow peninsulas which project towards each other from the opposite shores. Belleisle Bay turns to the \. E. just above Mistaken Point. The estuary is nearly hidden by a low island and by a rounded promontory on ther., beyond which the bay extends' to the N. E. for 12 - 14 M. , -with a uniform width of 1 M. It is navi- gable for the largest vessels, and is bordered by wooded hills. On the S. shore near the mouth is Kingston Creek, which leads S. in about 5 M. to Kingston (two inns), a sequestered village of 200 inhabitants, romantically situated among the hills in the centi-e of the peninsular parish of Kingston. This peninsula preserves an almost uniform width of 5-0 M. for 30 M. , between the Kenuebecasis Bay and river on the S. E. and the Long Reach and Belleisle Bay on the X. W. The scenery, though never on a grand scale, is pleasant and bold, and has many fine water views. A few miles E. of Kingston is the remarkable lakelet called the Ficktcaakeet, occu- pying an extinct cniter and surrounded by volcanic rocks. This district was origi- nally settled by American Loyalists, and for many years Kingston was the capital of Kings County. The village is most easily reached "from Rothesay (see page 22). Tennant's Cove is a small Baptist village at the N. of the entrance to the bay ; whence a road leads in 5 M. to the hamlet of Belleisle Bat/ on the N. shore (nearly opposite Long Point village) ; from which the bay road runs in 3-4 M. to the larger Baptist settlement at Spragg's Point, whence much cord-wood is sent to St. John. 4 31. beyond is Springjjekl fsmall inn), the largest of the Belleisle villages, situated near the head of the bav, and 7 M. from Norton, on the Intercolonial Railway (Route 16). At the head of the Long Eeach a granite ridge turns the river to the N. and X. W. and narrows it for several miles. 4-5 M. above Belleisle Bay- Spoon Island is passed, above which, on the r. bank, is the shipbuilding hamlet of Wicl-Jiani. A short distance beyond, on the W. bank, is Hamp- stead, with several mills and a gi-anite-quarry. The shores of the river now become more low and level, and the fertile meadows of Long Island are coasted for nearly 5 M. This pretty island is dotted with elm-trees, and contains two large ponds. On the mainland ("W. shoi-e), near its head, is the hamlet of Otnabog, at the mouth of a river which empties into a lake 3 M. long and 1-2 M. wide, connected with the St. Jolin by a narrow passage. The boat next passes the Lower Musquash Island, containing a large pond, and hiding the outlet of the Wa^hademoaJc Lake (see Koute 9). " This part of the Province , including the lands around the Grand Lake and along the Washademoak, must become a very populous and rich country. A great propor- tion of the land is intervale or alluvial, and coal is found in great plenty, near the Grand Lake No part of America can exhibit greater beauty or more luxiariant fertility than the lands on each side, and the islands that we pass in this distance." (McGregor's British America.) After passing the Upper ISIusquash Island, the steamboat rounds in at Gagetoicn (2 inns), a village of 300 inhabitants, prettily situated on the W. bank of the river. It is the shire-town of Queen's County, and is the shipping- point for a broad ti-act of farming-country. After leaving this point, the steamer passes between Grimross Neck (1. ) and the level shores of Cam- bridge (r.), and runs by the mouth of the Jemseg River. About the year 1640 the French seigneur erected at the mouth of the Jemseg a fort, on whose ramparts were 12 iron guns and 6 " murtherers." It was provided MAUGERVILLE. Route 8. 43 with a court of guard , stone barracks and magazines , a garden, and a chapel ' ' 6 paces square, with a hell weighing 18 pounds." In 1654 it was captured by an expedition sent out by Oliver Cromwell ; but was yielded up bj' Sir Thomas Temple to the Seigneur de Soulanges et Marson in 1670. In 1674 it was taken and plundered by " a Flemish corsair." The Seigniory of Jemseg was granted by the French Crown to the ancient Breton family of Damour des Chaffour. In 1686 it was occupied by the seignorial family, and in 1698 there were 50 persons settled here under its auspices. In 1739 the lordship of this district was held by the Marquis de Vaudreuil, who had 116 colonists in the domain of Jemseg. In 1692 it was made the capital of Acadia, under the command of M. de Villebon ; and after the removal of the seat of govern- ment to Fort Nashwaak (Fredericton), the Jemseg fort suffered the vicissitudes of British attack, and was finally abandoned. About the year 1776, 600 Indian warriors gathered here, designing to devastate the St. John valley, but were deterred by the resolute front made by the colonists from the Oromocto fort, and were finally ap- peased and quieted by large presents. The Jemseg River is the outlet of Grand Lake (see Route 10). Beyond this point the steamer runs N. W. by Grimross Island, and soon passes the hamlets of Canning (r.) and Upper Gagetown (1.). Above Mauger's Island is seen the tall spire of Burton church, and the boat calls at Sheffield, the seat of the Sheffield Academy. " The whole river-front of the parishes of Maugerville, Shefiield, and "Water- borough, an extent of nearly 30 M., is a remarkably fine alluvial soil, exactly re- sembling that of Battersea fields and the Twickenham meadows, stretching from the river generally about 2 M. This tract of intervale, including the three noble islands opposite, is deservedly called the Garden of New Brunswick, and it is by far the most considerable tract of alluvial soil, formed by fresh water, in the Province." Above Sheffield the steamer passes Middle Island, which is 3 SI. long, and produces much hay, and calls at Maugerville, a quiet lowland village of 300 inhabitants. On the opposite shore is Oromocto (two inns), the capital of Sunbury County, a village of 400 inhabitants, engaged in ship- building. It is at the mouth of the Oromocto River, which is navigable for 22 M. The settlement of Maugerville was the first which was formed by the English on the St. John River. It was established in 1763 by families from Massachusetts and Connecticut, and had over 100 families in 1775. In May, 1776, the inhabitants of Sunbury County assembled at Maugerville, and resolved that the colonial policy of the British Parliament was wrong, that the United Provinces were justified in re- sisting it, that the county should be attached to Massachusetts, and that men and money should be raised for the American service : saying also, " we are Ready with our Lives and fortunes to Share with them the Event of the present Struggle for Liberty, however God in his Providence may order it." These resolutions were signed by all but 12 of the people ; and Massachusetts soon sent them a quantity of ammunition. At a later day Col. Eddy, with a detachment of Mass. troops, ascended the St. John River to Maugerville, where he met with a warm welcome and was joined by nearly 50 men. Oromocto was in early days a favorite resort of the Indians, one of whose great cemeteries has recently been found here. When the hostile tribes concentrated on the Jemseg during the Revolutionary War, and were preparing to devastate the river-towns, the colonists erected a large fortification near the mouth of the Oromocto, and took refuge there. They made such a bold front that the Indians retired and disbanded, after having reconnoitred the works. " The rich meadows are decorated with stately elms and forest trees, or sheltered by low coppices of cranberry, alder, and other native bushes. Through the numer- ous openings in the shrubbery, the visitor, in traversing the river, sees the white fronts of the cottages, and other buildings ; and, from the constant change of posi- tion, in sailing, an almost endless variety of scenery is presented to the traveller's eye. During the summer season the surface of the water afibrds an interesting 44 Route S. FREDERICTCN. spectacle. Yast rafts of timber and logs are slowly moTed downwards by the cur- rent. On them is sometimes seen the shanty of the lumberman, with his family, a cow, and occasionally a haystack, all destined for the city below. Numerous canoes and boats are in motion, while the paddles of the steamboat break the polished sur- face of the stream and send it ripphng to the shore. In the midst of this landscape stands Fredericton, situated on an obtuse level point formed by the bending of the river, and in the midst of natural and cultivated scenery."' (Gesxer.) Fredericton. Hotels. Barker House, Queen St. , $ 2 a day ; Queen's Hotel, Queen St. , $ 1.50 a day. Stages leave tri- weekly for Woodstock (62 M. ; fare, §2.50) ; and tri- weekly for Boiestown and the Miramichi (105 M. ; fare, S 6). Railways. The European & North American (branch line) to St. John, in about 64 M. ; fare, S2. The New Brunswick Railway (narrow gauge), to Woodstock and Florenceville ; fare to Woodstock, S 1.75 (page 50). Steatnljoats. Daily to St. .John, stopping at the river-ports. Fare, § 1.50. In the summer there are occasional night-boats, leaving Fredericton at 4 P. M. When the river has enough water, steamboats run from Fredericton, 65 - 70 M. N. W. to Woodstock and Grand Falls. Ferry -steamers cross to St. Mary's at fre- quent intervals. Fredekicton, the capital of the Province of New Brunswick, is a small city pleasantly situated on a level plain near the St. John River. In 1871 it had 6,006 inhabitants, with 4 weekly newspapers and a bank. It is probably the quietest place, of its size, north of the Potomac RiA-er. The streets are broad and airy, intersecting each other at right angles, and are lined with fine old shade trees. The city has no manufacturing interests, but serves as a shipping-point and depot of supplies for the young settle- ments to the N. and W. Its chief reason for being is the presence of the offices of the Provincial Government, for which it was founded. Queen St. is the chief thoroughfare of the city, and runs nearly parallel with the river. At its W. end is the Government House, a plain and spa- cious stone building situated in a pleasant park, and used for the official residence of the Lieutenant-Governor of New Brunswick. Nearly in the middle of the city, and between Queen St. and the river, are the IMilitary Grounds and Parade-ground, with the large barracks (accommodating 1,000 men), which were formerly the headquartei's of the British army in this Province. They are now deserted, and are falling into dilapidation. Near the E. end of Queen St. are the Parliament Buildings, a group of in - ferior wooden structures, where the legislative bodies of the Province hold their sessions. The Library is in the brick building oh the E., and con- tains about 13,000 volumes. It is, however, open only on Wednesdays. The Council Chamber and Chamber of Commons are comfortable, but small and plain, halls; and the Law Library is also contained in this building. * Christ Church Cathedral is a short distance beyond the Paiiiament Buildings, and is embowered in a grove of fine old trees near the river (corner of Church and Queen Sts.). It is under the direct care of the Anglican Bishop of Fredericton, and its style of construction is modelled FREDERICTON. Route 8. 45 after that of Christ Church Cathedral at Jlontreal. The beauty of the EngUsh Gothic architecture, as here wrought out in fine gray stone, is heightened by the picturesque effect of the surrounding trees. A stone spire, 178 ft. high, rises from the junction of the nave and transepts. The interior is beautiful, though small, and the chancel is adorned with a superb window of Newcastle stained-glass, presented by the Episcopal Church in the United States. It represents, in the centre, Christ cruci- fied, with SS. John, James, and Peter on the 1., and SS. Thomas, Philip, and Andrew on the r. In the cathedral tower is a chime of 8 bells, each of which bears the inscription : " Ave Pater, Rex, Creator, Ave Simplex, Ave Trine, Ave Fill, Lux, Salvator, Ave Regnuns in Sublime, Ave Spiritus Oonsolator, Ave Resonet sine fine, Ave Beata Unitas. Ave Sancia Trinitas." The Provincial Exposition Building is a spacious edifice on Westmore- land St., constructed in a singular variety of Saracenic architecture. It is used for great industrial and agricultural fairs every 3 or 4 yeai's. In this vicinity is the skating-rink^ and the railway-station is but a little way beyond, on York St. The University of Neio Brunswick is a substantial freestone building, 170 ft. long and 60 ft. wide, occupying a fine position on the hills which sweep around the city on the S. It was established by royal charter in 1828, while Sir Howai'd Douglas ruled the Province ; and v,^as for many years a source of great strife between the Episcopalians and the other sects^ the latter making objection to the absorption by the Anglicans of an institu- tion which had been paid for by the whole people. It was faii-ly endowed, but has not yet reached an era of pi'osperity, probably because there are too many colleges in the Maritime Provinces. The view from the Univer- sity is pleasant, and is thus described by Prof. Johnston : " From the high ground above Fredericton I again felt how very delightful it is to feast the eyes, weary of stony barrens and perpetual pines, upon the beautiful river St John Calm, broad, clear, just visibly flowing on ; full to its banks, and re- flecting from its surface the graceful American elms which at intervals fringe its snores, it has all the beauty of a long lake without its lifelessness. But its acces- sories are as yet chiefly those of nature, — wooded ranges of hills varied in outline, now retiring from and now approaching the water's edge, with an occasional clear- ing, and a rare white-washed house, with its still more rarely visible inhabitants, and stray cattle In some respects this view of the St. John recalled to my mind some of the po^ints on the Russian river (Neva) : though among European scenery, in its broad waters and forests of pines, it most resembled the tamer por- tions of the sea-arms and fiords of Ssveden and Norway." St. Mary's and NashtvaaJcsis are opposite Fredericton, on the 1. bank of the St. John, and are reached by a steam-ferry. Here is the terminus of the New Brunswick Railway (to Woodstock) ; and here also are the great lumber-mills of Mr. Gibson, with the stately church and comfortable homes which he has erected for his workmen. Nearly opposite the city is seen the mouth of the Nashwaak River, whose valley was settled by disbanded soldiers of the old Black Watch (42d Highlanders). 46 EouteS. FREDEKICTOK In tlie year 1690 the French government sent ont the Chevalier de Yillehon as Governor "of Acadia. "\Alien he arrived at Port Roval ^Aunapolis\ his capital, he found that Sir WiUiam Thipps's New-Eugland Heet liad rocontly captni-ed and de- Ptroved its fortifications, so he ascended the St. John River and soon fixed his capi- tal at Nashwauk, where he remained for several jears, organizing Indian forays on the settlements of Maiue. In October, 169li, an Anglo-American army ascended the St. John in the ships Aridicltl, Province, and others, aud laid siege to Fort Nashwaak. The Chevalier de Yillebon drew up his garrison, and addressed them with enthusiasm, aud the de- tachments were put in charge of the Sieui-s de la Cote, Tibierge, and Clignancourt. The British royal standard was displayed over the besiegers' works, and for three da\s a heavy fire of artillery and musketry was kept up. The precision of the fire from La Cote"s battery dismounted the hostile guns, and after seeing the Sieur de Faldse reinforce the fort from Quebec, the British gave up the siege and retreated down the river. The village of St. Anne was erected here, under the protection of Fort Nashwaak. Its site had been visited by De Monts in 1(304, during his exploration of the river. In 1757 (and later) the place was crowded with Acadian refugees fleeing from the stern visitations of angry New England on the Minas and Port Royal districts. In 17S4 came the exiled American Loyalists, who drove away the Acadians into the wilderness of Madawaska, and settled along these shores. During the following year Gov. Guy Carleton established the capital of the Province here, in view of the central location and pleasant natural features of the place. Since the formation of the Canadian Dominion, and the consequent withdrawal of the British garrison, Fredericton has become dormant. 7 M. above Fredericton is Aiikpaqtie, the favorite home-district of the ancient Indians of the river. The name siguifics " a beautiful expanse of the river caused by numerous islands."' On the island of Sandous were the fortifications and quar- ters of the American foi'ces in 1777, when the St. John River was held by the expe- dition of Col. Allan. They reached Aukpaque on the 5th of June, and saluted the new American flag with salvos of artillery, while the resident Indians, under Am- brose St. Aubin, their " august and noble chief," welcomed them and their cause. They patrolled the river with guard-boats, aided the patriot residents on the banks, and" watched the mouth of St. John harbor. After the camp on Aukpaque had been established about a month it was broken up by a British naval force from below, and Col. Allan led away about 600 people, patriot Provincials, Indians, and their families. This great exodus is one of the most romantic and yet least known incidents of the American borders. It was conducted by canoes up the St. John to the ancient French trading-post called Fort ^Meductic, whence they carried their boats, families, aud household goods across a long portage ; then they ascended the i-apid Eel River to its reservoir-lake, from whose head another portage of 4 M. led them to North Pond. The long procession of exiles next defiled into the Grand Lake, and encamped for several days at its outlet, after which they descended the Chiputneticook Lake and the St. Croix River, passed into the Lower Schoodic Lake, and thence carried their fiiuiilies and goods to the head-waters of the Blachias River. Floating down that stream, they reached Machiasi in time to aid in beating off the British squadron from that town. From Fredericton to the IliramicM. Through the Fo7'est. The Eoyal ]Man-stage leaves on i\Ionday, Wednesday, and Friday, at a very early hour, and the passenger gets breakfost at Eastman's, and sleeps at Frazer's. The trip requires 2 days, and costs $6 (exclusive of hotels), and the distance from Fredericton to Newcastle is 105 M. By far the greater part of the route leads through an unbroken forest, and the road leaves much to be desired. Afte^ crossing the feny at Fredericton 1 3!ac7uas is snirt to be derived from the French word Jfncjes (meaning the Magi>, and it is held tliat it was discovered by the ancient French explorers on tlie Festival of the Magi. WASHADEMOAK LAKE. Route 9. 47 the route lies due N. and is as straight as an arrow for 9 M., when it reaches Nashwaak Village (small inn); thence it follows the Nashwaak River for 5 M., to the hamlet of Nashwaak, above which it enters a wild country about the head-waters of the river. To the W. are the immense domains of the New Brunswick Land Company, on which a few struggling settle- ments are located. In the earlier days there was a much-travelled route between the St. John valley and the Miramichi waters, by way of the Nashwaak River, from whose upper waters a portage was made to the adjacent streams of the Miramichi (see "Vacation Tourists," for 1862-3, pp. 464 - 474). At about 40 M. from Fredericton the stage reaches Boies- toicn (small inn), a lumbering-village of 250 inhabitants, on the S. W. Miramichi River. This place was founded in 1822, by Thomas Boies and 120 Americans, but has become decadent since the partial exhaustion of the forests. The road now follows the course of the S. W. Miramichi, passing the hamlets of Ludlow, 52 M. from Fredericton ; Doaktown, 55 M. ; Blissfield, 62; Dunphy, 73; Blackville, 79; Lidiantown (Renous River), 87; Derby, 96; and Newcastle, 105 (see Route 15). 9. Washademoak Lake. The steamer Star leaves St. John (Indiantown) on Tuesday, Thursday, and Sat- u ^T'^A*,. ^- ^- ^°^ ^^^'^'^ ^^^^'^^ ^°<1 *^e intermediate landings. The distance is about 60 M. ; the fare is $ 1. The boats leave Cole's Island on the return trip at Y.dU A. M. , on ^V ednesday, Friday, and Monday. The steamboat ascends the St. John River (see page 39) to the upper end of Long Island, where it turns to the N. E. in a narrow passage be- tween the Lower Musquash Island and the shores of Wickham. On either side are Avide rich intervales, over which the spring inundations spread fertilizing soil; and the otherwise monotonous landscape is enlivened bv clusters of elms and maples. After following this passage for l.V M., the steamer enters the Washademoak Lake, at this point nearly 2 M. wide. The Washademoak is not properly a lake, but is the broadening of the river of the same name, which maintains a width of from J M, to 2 M, from Cole's Island to its mouth, a distance of 25-30 M. It is deep and still, and has but little current. In the spring-time and autumn rafts de- scend the lake from the upper rivers and from the head-waters of the Cocagne, and pass down to St. John. The scenery is rather tame, being that of alluvial lowlands, diversified only by scattered trees. There are 10 small hamlets on the shores, with from 150 to 250 inhabitants each, most of them being on the E. shore. The people are engaged in farming and in freighting cord-wood to St. John. About 6 M. above McDonald's Point, Lewis Cove opens to the S. E., running down for about 3 M. into the parish of Wickham; and 4-5 M. farther on are tJie Narroics, where the lake is nearly cut in two by a bold bluff projecting from the E. share. Cole's Island has about 200 inhabitants, and a small hotel. It is 20 M. 48 F. cute 10. GKAXD LAKE. fi-om Apoliaqiii, en the Intercolonial Kailwny. Koad? mn acro?s the pe- ninsula on the X. W. to Grand Lake in 5-7 M. It is SS >L from Cole's Island to Petitcodiac, on the Intercolonial Kailway, by way of Brookvale, The Forks, and Xew Canaan. The "Washademoak region has no attrac- tions for the Slimmer tourist. 10. Grand lake. The steamer 3Iat/ Queen leaves St. John (Indian town) on Wednesday and Satur- day at S A.M., for Grand Lake and the Sahuou Kiver. The distance is So M. ; the fare is S 150. She leaves Salmon River on Monday and Thursday mornings ; and touches at Gagetown in ascending and descending. Grand Lake is SO M. long and from 3 to 9 M. wide. It has a tide of 6 inches, caused by the backwater of the St. John Kiver, thrown up by the hish tides of the Bay of Fiindy. The shores are Ioav and uninteresting, and are broken by several deep coves and estuaries. There are numerous hamlets on each side, but they are all small and have an air of poverty. It is reasonably hoped, however, that these broad alluvial plains will be- come, in a few decades, the home of a large and prosperous population. The lands in this vicinitj- were granted at an early date to the Sienr de Frcneuse, a young Parisian, the son of that Siour de Cliguancourt who was so active in settling the St. John vaUey and iu defending it ag-aiust the New-Englanders. On Charle- voix's map (dated 1744) Grand Lake is called Lac Freneuse , and a village of the same name is indicated as being a few miles to the N. These shores weiv a favorite camp- ing-ground of the ancient Milicete Indians, whose descendants occasionally visit Grand Lake in pursuit of muskrats. The lumber business, always baneful to the agricultural interests of a new country, has slackened on account of the exhaustion of the forests on the Salmon Kiver ; and it is now thought that a farming population will erelong occupy the Grand Lake country. The steamer ascends the St. John Eiver (see page 39) as for as Gage- tow7i, where it makes a brief stop (other landings on the lower river are sometimes visited). She then crosses to the month of the Jemseg (see page 43), where the Jemseg Kiver is entered, and is followed through its narrow, tortnous, and picturesque course of 4 M. This is the most inter- esting part of the journey. "When nearly through the passage the boat stops before the compact hamlet of Jevisec/, occupying the slope of a hill on the r. On entering the lake, a broad expanse of still water is seen in front, with low and level shores denuded of trees. On the 1. is Scotch- ioicn (150 inhabitants), near wbich is a channel cut through the alluvium, leading (in 2 M.) to Maquapit Lale, which is 5 M. long and 2-3 M. wide. This channel is called the Thorough fare ; is passable by large boats; and leads through groves of elm, birch, and maple trees. 1 'M. from the W; end of Maquapit Lake is French Lake, accessible by another " Thorough- fare," and 3-4 M. long, nearly divided by a long, low point. This hike is 5-6 ]\I. from Sheffield, on the St. John Kiver. The channel is marked out by poles rising from the flats on either side. (The course of the steamer is liable to variation, and is here described as follov\-ed by the Editor.) Robinson's Point is first visited, with its white GRAND LAKE. Route 11. 49 lighthouse rising from the E. shore; and the steamer passes around into White's Cove, where there is a farming settlement of 200 inhabitants. Thence the lake is crossed to the N. to Keyhole, a curious little harbor near the villages of Maquapit and Douglas Harbor. After visiting Mill Cove and Wiggin's Cove, on the E. shore, and Young's Cove (2 inns), the boat rounds Cumberland Point and ascends the deep Cumberland Bay, at whose head is a populous farming settlement. On the way out of the bay Cox's Point is visited, and then the narrowing waters at the head of the lake are entei-ed. At Newcastle and other points in this vicinity, attempts have been made at coal-mining. The coal district about the head of Grand Lake covers an area of 40 square miles, and the coal is said to be of good quality and in thick seams. But little has yet been done in the way of mining, owing to the difficulty of transporting the coal to market. Soon after passing Newcastle Creek the steamer ascends the N. E. arm, rounds a long, low point, and enters the Salmon River. This stream is ascended for several miles, through the depressing influences of ruined forests not yet replaced by farms. Beyond Ironbound Cove and the Coal Mines, the boat ties up for the night at a backwoods settlement, where the traveller must go ashore and sleep in a room reserved for wayfarers in an adjacent cottage. Brigg^s Corner is at the head of naTigation, and a road runs thence N. E. across the wilderness to Richibucto, in 50 -GO M. It is stated by good authority that the fishing in the Salmon River has been ruined by the lumber-mills ; but that very good sport maybe found on the Lake Stream, 15-20 M. beyond Brigg's Corner, Visitors to this district must be provided vrith full camp-equipage. A road also leads N. W. from Brigg's Corner (diverging from the Richibucto road at Gaspereau) to Blissville, on the S. W. Miramichi, in about 40 M. 11. Fredericton to Woodstock. By the New Bninsioick Railway^ a new line which has been but recently opened to trade. It is a narrow-gauge road, and travellers who are not familiar with that principle of railway-building will be interested in observing the comparatively low and narrow, but comfortable cars ; the small locomotives ; and the construction of the bridges, the sharpness of the curves, and the steepness of the grades. The New Brunswick R.ailway is now completed to Florenceville, and is being graded to Tobique, whence it is proposed to construct a branch to Cariboo, 13 M, up the rich valley of the Aroostook. The company hopes that the line will be car- ried through to Riviere du Loup, on the St. Lawrence, at no distant date. Stations. Gibson; St. Mary's, 1 M. ; Douglas, 3; Springhill, ,51; Rockland 10; Keswick, 12; Cardigan, 16i ; Lawrence, 17|- ; Zealand, 20; Stoneridge, 22^ Burnside, 25; Upper Keswick. 28i ; Burt Lake, 32; Haynesville,36i : Millville,38i Nackawic, 43 ; Falls Brook, 48 ; Woodstock Junction, 52 ; Newburgh, 57 ; R.iTer- eide, 60 ; Northampton, 61^. Fare from Fredericton to Woodstock, .$1.75. Beyond Woodstock Junction the New Brunswick Railway runs N. to Hartland (61 M. from Fredericton) and to Florenceville (71 M.). The trains make connections with stages for Tobique and the upper St. John valley. The traveller crosses the St. John Eiver by the steam ferry-boat (5c.), from Fredericton to Gibson; and the terminal station of the railway is near the ferry-landing. As the train moves out, pleasant views are afforded 3 D 50 Route 11. FREDEEICTON TO WOODSTOCK. of the prosperons and happy settlements which have been founded here by- Mr. Gibson, the lumber-merchant. Glimpses of Fredericton are obtained on the 1., and beyond St. Mary's the Xashwaaksis Eiver is crossed. Then follows a succession of beautiful views (to the 1.) over the wide and placid St. John, dotted with numerous large and level islands, lapon which are clusters of graceful ti-ees. On the farther shore is seen the village of Springhill (see page 51) ; and the broad expanse of Sugar Island crosses the river a little way above. At about 10 ]\I. from Fredericton the line changes its course from W. to N. W., and leaves the St. John valley, ascending the valley of the Keswick, — a district which is beginning to show the rewards of the arduous labors of its eai-ly pioneers. The Keswick Valley was settled in 17S3, by the disbanded American-loyalist corps of New York and the Royal Guides, and their descendants are now attacking the remoter back-country. The KesAvick flows through a pleasant region, and has bold features, the chief of which is the escarped wall of sandstone on the 1. bank, reaching for 8 - 10 ]\E from its mouth. From Cardigan station a road leads into the old Welsh settlement of Cardigan. The line nest passes several stations on the old domain of the New Brunswick Land Company, an association which was incorporated by royal charter before 1840, and purchased from the Crown 550,000 acres in York County. Thej' established their capital and chief agency at the village of Stanleij, opened roads through the forest, settled a large company of people from the Isle of Skye upon their lands, and expended 8500,000 in vain attempts to colonize this disti-ict. The country now traversed by the line seems desolate and iinpromising, and but few signs of civilization are visible. This forest-land is left be- hind, and the open valley of the St. John is approached, beyond New- burgh. For the last few miles of the journey beautiful views are given from the high grades of the line, including the river and its intervales and sun-ounding hills. The terminal station is, at present, in a field about Ij M. from Woodstock, on the opposite shore of the St. John, which is here crossed by a primitive steam ferry-boat. Woodstock [American Eouse^ comfortable), the. capital of Carleton County, is situated at the confluence of the St. John and Meduxnekeag Eivers, in the centre of a thriving agricultural district. The population is over 2,000, and the town is favorably situated on a high bluft' over the St. John Eiver. The Episcopal Church of St. Luke and the Catholic Church of St. Gertnide are on Main St., where are also the chief buildings of the town. The academy called Woodstock College is located here. The country in this vicinity is very attractive in summer, and is possessed of a rich rural beauty which is uncommon in these Frovinces. The soil is a calcareous loam, producing more fruit and cereal grains than any other part of New Brunswick. The boldblufts over the St. John are generally well- wooded, and the intervales bear much hay and grain. There are large saw- mills at the mouth of the JMeduxnekeag, where the timber which is cut on its upper waters, in Maine, is made into lumber. 12 M. from Woodstock WOODSTOCK. Route n. 51 is the American village oi Houlton, the capital of Aroostook County, Maine; and the citizens of the two towns are in such close social relations that Woodstock bears great resemblance to a Yankee town, both in its archi- tecture and its society. " Of the quality of the "Woodstock iron it is impossible to speak too highly, espe- cially for making steel, and it is eagerly sought by the armor-plate manufacturers iu England. On six different trials, plates of Woodstock iron were only slightly in- dented by an Armstrong shot, which shattered to pieces scrap-iron plates of the best quality and of similar thickness. When cast it has a fine silver-gray color, is singu- larly close-grained, and rings like steel on being struck. A cubic inch of Wood- stock iron weighs 22 per cent more than the like quantity of Swedish, Russian, or East Indian iron." (Hon. Arthur Gordon.) The mines are some distance from the village, and are being worked efficiently, their products being much used for the British iron-clad frigates. The N. B. & C. Railway runs S. from Woodstock to St. Stephen and St. Andrews (see page 36); fare, $2.90. The N. B. Railway goes S. E. to Fredericton ; fare, $ 1.75. Steamers run to Fredericton and to Grand Falls, when the river is high enough. Stages pass by the river-road to Fredericton semi-weekly, and daily stages run N. to Grand Falls, and also W. to Houlton. 12. Fredericton to Woodstock, by the St. John River. During the spring and autumn, when there is enough water in the river, this route is served by steamboats. At other times the journey may be made by the mail-stage. The distance is 62 M. ; the fare is i 2.50. The stage is uncovered, and hence is undesirable as a means of conveyance except in pleasant weather. Most travellers will prefer to pass between Fredericton and Woodstock by the new rail- way (see Route 11). The stage passes up the S. and W. side of the river. The en- suing itinerary speaks of the river-villages in their order of location, without refer- ence to the stations of the stages and steamboats. Distances. —Fredericton to Springhill, 5 M. ; Lower French Village, 9; Bris- tol (Kingsclear), 16 ; Lower Prince William, 21 ; Prince AVilliam, 25 ; Dumfries, 32 ; Pokiok Falls, 39 ; Lower Canterbury,44 ; Canterbury, 51 ; Lower Woodstock ; Wood- stock, 52. On leaving Fredericton, pleasant prospects of the city and its Nash- waak suburbs are afforded, and successions of pretty views are obtained over the rich alluvial islands which fill the river for over 7 M., up to the mouth of the Keswick River. Springhill (S. shore) is the first village, and has about 250 inhabitants, with an Episcopal church and a small inn. The prolific intervales of Sugar Island are seen on the r., nearly closing the estuary of the Keswick, and the road passes on to the Indian village, where reside 25 families of the Milicete tribe. A short distance beyond is the Loioer French Village (McKinley's inn), inhabited by a farming population descended from the old Acadian fugitives. The road and river now run to the S. W., through the rural parish of Kingsclear, which was settled in 1784 by the 2d Battalion of New Jersey Loyalists. Beyond the hamlet of Bristol (Kingsclear) Burgoyne's Ferry is reached, and the scat- tered cottages of Lower Queensbury are seen on the N. shore. After crossing Long's Creek the road and river turn to the N. W., and soon reach the village of Lower Prince William (Wason's inn). 9 M. S. W. of this point is a settlement amid the beautiful scenery of Lake George, where an antimony-mine is being worked ; 3 M. beyond which is Magundy (small inn), to the W. of Lake George. 52 Route 12. FORT MEDUCTIC. The road passes on to Prince William, through a parish which was originally settled by tlie King's American Dragoons, and is now occupied by their descendants. On the N. shore are the hilly uplands of the parish of Queensbury, which were settled by the disbanded men of the Queen's Eangers, after the Revolutionary War. Rich intervale islands are seen in the river between these parishes. Beyond Dumfries (small hotel) the hamlet of Upper Queensbury is seen on the N. shore, and the river sweeps around a broad bend at whose head is Pohioh, with large lumber-mills, 3 M. from Allandale. There is a fine piece of scenery here, where the River Pokiok (an Indian word meaning "the Dreadful Place "), the out- let of Lake George, enters the St. John. The river first plunges over a perpendicular fall of 40 ft. and then enters a fine gorge, 1,200 ft. long, 75 ft. deep, and 25 ft. wide, cut through opposing ledges of dark rock. The Pokiok bounds down this chasm, from step to step, until it reaches the St. John, and affords a beautiful sight in time of high water, although its current is often encumbered with masses of riff-raff and rubbish from the saw-mills above. The gorge should be inspected from below, although it cannot be ascended along the bottom on account of the velocity of the contracted stream. About 4 M. from Pokiok (and nearer to Dumfries) is the pretty highland water of Prince William Lake, which is nearly 2 M. in diameter. Lower Canterbury (inn) is about 5 M. beyond Pokiok, and is near the mouth of the Sheogomoc River, flowing out from a lake of the same name. At Canterbury (Hoyt's inn) the Eel River is crossed; and about 5 M. be- yond, the road passes the site of the old French works of Fort Meductic. This fort commanded the portage between the St. John and the route by the upper Eel River and the Eel and North Lakes to the Chiputneticook Lakes and Passama- quoddy Bay. Portions of these portages are marked by deep pathways worn in the rocks by the moccasons of many generations of Indian hunters and warriors. By this route marched the devastating savage troops of the Chevalier de Villebon to many a merciless foray on the New England borders. The land in this vicinity, and the lordship of the MiUcete town at Sleductic , were granted in 1684 to the Sieur Cliguancourt, the brave Parisian who aided in repelling the troops of Massachusetts from the fort on the Jemseg. Here, also, during high water, the Indians were obliged to make a portage around the Meductic Rapids, and the command of this point was deemed of great importance and value. (See also the account of Allan's retreat, on page 46.) Off this point are the Meductic Eapids, where the steamboats sometimes find it difiicult to make headway against the descending waters, accel- erated by a slight incline. The road now runs N. through the pleasant valley of the St. John, with hill-ranges on either side. Lower Woodstoch is a prosperous settlement of about 500 inhabitants, and the road soon approaches the N. B. & C. Railway (see page 37), and runs between that line and the river. " The approach to Woodstock, from the old church upwards, is one of the pleas- antest drives in the Province, the road being shaded on either side with fine trees, and the comfortable farm-houses and gardens, the scattered clumps of wood, the FLORENCEVILLE. Route 13. ■ 53 ■windings of the great river, the picturesque knolls, and the gay appearance of the pretty straggling Uttle town, all giving an air of a long-settled, peaceful, English- looking country.''^ (Gordon.) 13. Woodstock to Grand Falls and Riviere du Loup. The pleasanter route to Grand Falls is by the steamboats, — small, light-draught craft, which scuttle up the rapids and over the shallows as long as there is enough water in the river (usually only during the springtime and autumn). The Royal mail-stages leave Woodstock at 6 p. m. daily ; supper at Middle Simonds (Mills's), 15 M. out ; breakfast at Tobique, at 4 A. M. ; reach Grand Falls at 8 a. m., and remain one hour; dinner at Belyea's, 18 M. beyond ; supper at Edmundston, and remain one hour ; breakfast at La Belle's, at 1 a. m., and reach Riviere du Loup in time for the morning train for Quebec or Montreal. The time between AVood- stock and Riviere du Loup is 36-40 hours. The New Brunswick Railway has been extended beyond AVoodstock Junction to Florenceville and Muniac, and stages con- nect with the trains at the latter station and run through to Tobique. The "railway will probably reach the latter point this year. Passengers leave Woodstock (North- ampton) at 8 a. m., change cars at Woodstock Junction, and reach Muniac about 3.20 p. M. Distances. — Woodstock to "Victoria, 11 M. ; Florenceville, 24; Tobique, 50; Grand Falls, 75; Edmundston, 113; Riviere du Loup, 193. Fares. — By stage, Woodstock to Florenceville, $1.50; Tobique, $3; Grand Falls, $4.25; Grand Falls to Edmundston, $2.50; Edmundston to Riviere du Loup, $5. The road from Woodstock to Florenceville is pleasant and in an at- tractive country. "It is rich, English, and pretty. When I say Eng- lish, I ought, perhaps, rather to say Scotch, for the general features are those of the lowland parts of Perthshire, though the luxuriant vegeta- tion — tall crops of maize, ripening fields of golden wheat, and fine well- grown hard-wood — speaks of a more southern latitude. Single trees and clumps are here left about the fields and on the hillsides, under the shade of which well-looking cattle may be seen resting, whilst on the other hand are pretty views of river and distance, visible under fine willows, or through birches that carried me back to Deeside." (Hon. Arthuk Gordon.) Soon after leaving Woodstock the stage-road takes a direction to the N. E., keeping along the W. bank of the St. John Eiver. Victoria and Middle Simonds (Mills's Hotel) are quiet hamlets on the river, centres of agricultural districts of 5-800 inhabitants each. Florenceville (large hotel) is a pi-etty village, "perched, like an Italian town, on the very top of a high bluff far over the river." The road now swings aroiand to the N. W. and traverses the settlements of Wicklow. The district between Woodstock and Wicklow was settled after the American Revolution by the disbanded soldiers of the West India Eangers and the New Brunswick Fencibles. "Between Florenceville and Tobique the road becomes even prettier, winding along the bank of the St. John, or thi-ough woody glens that combine to my eye Somersetshire, Perthshire, and the green wooded part of southwestern Germany." There are five distinct terraces along the 54 JRi>HtelS. TOBIQUK. v^iUev, showing tho gvxvloirical ohargvst in the lovol of the rivor, and tho banks' of the stream aiv cvnnix\?evl of ?^xnd and gt'avel. The interv-ale is usually narrow, and is broken tn\\uently by intrusive highlands. 5 M. S, \V. of the river is Mai's Hill, a steep niountain about 1,200 ft. high, which overlooks a \-ast ex^vmse of foivst. This was one of the chief points' of cvHitrovei-sY during the old borvlei^tivubles, and its summit was cleai-cvl by the Commissioners of iTiH. The nxid now crosses the River des Chutes, at whose mouth are large saw-mills, near the site of an an- cient waterfall which has disi»ppeareil on account of the eiwion of the rooks. Above this point the country is less thickly settled, and the nvul pj\sses up i\ear the river. Perth village is seen on the K. shoiv, aiul the narrowing valleys of Victoria County aiv trswei-sed. Tohique v^^ewcomb's inn\ otherwise known as Andover, is pleasantly sitnatevl on the W. bank of the St. John, nearly opp^xrt Fiurji.U HoM^maU ti»o- tories. This town was settUxi hv won of New Kruuswu-k u\ ISIO, at which time it XN-*? suppostxi to tv inside the Yhwinoialline. A ivad initis tnnu Kort KaivtieUl S, AV. to PTt>stiiie Isle ( FVc'.-fij'K!' IsU Wsf!^, a villagv of about 1 aXX^ inhabitants, with -4 ohnrehes, an academy, s*n-eral feotom\<, and a newsivH^x^r ^^the '• Ihw-svine Isle Sun- rise "">. This town is 42 M. N. of Uouiton, w\ the V'. S. militai-y rosul which i-uus to the XIada\N-5»ska district, and is one of the lYuti-es of the rich terming Uwds of thd Arvxvstook Vallev , parts of which are now oceupitxl bv J?we\.lish colonists. Fivni Tcbique to Bathursit. Tht\>u(!h the WiUcmess. Gxiides and canoes can b*-* obtaincvl at the Indian village ne(vr Tobiv\ue. About 1 M. aK>Ye Tobiqne the voyagt^rs asivnd thn^ngh the .\»ir/i>e<\<, wheiv the rapid cur- rent of the Tobiqnc Kiver is contincvl in a winding cafun\ (1 M. KMig, 150 ft wivle, and 50-100 ft. dtvp) Wtween high Umestoite cUt^ Then the river biwndens out into a pvetty lake-like ivach, with ivunded and forest -coveiwl hills on cither side. The first iiight-camp is nsuallx- made high up on this reach. Two mojv i-apids aix> next pj\ssevl, and tlien comnunvces a stivtch of clear, deep water 70 M. long, Nt^r the foot of the r>:\»ch is the settlemei\t of J'-.'Ajfrt'fff', with about 4i.H^ inhjibitants. The Rtrd Rapids aiv 11 M ttviu the mouth of the river, and dtv^'ctnid bt»t>\tvn high shores- Occasional KwntifuUy woo^led islands aiv \\Hsst\l in the stn^am ; and by the evening of the secc>nd day the vvnagx^rs sliould rcjich the high rt\\ clitic at the mouth of the brvwd Wapskehegan Kiver. This Indian name signifies " a river with a w^U at its mouth," and the'sti-eam may Iv aswud^nl for IX^ M., tlirvnigh a ivgion of limestone Ixills and alluvial intervales'. The WajK-skeheg-an is 81 M.' above' tho mouth of the Tobique. Infrequent clearings, re^I cliffs vSlong the sliore, and blue hills more rtnnote, en- gage the attention as the canoe ascends still farther, ^xHSsing the hamlet of J>\K. aiv ixHSStxi, Uvasiional glimpses are gaincvi (on the r.) of the Blue Mts. and other tall ridgt^s. At 8l> M. fix>m the mouth of th« river, the canoe i'«j\ches The Fork-4: (4-5 davs h-om Tobi (>j*;rhA]m. the Hay of ('Autlcur. CJ'^e to iUj Houthern ♦s'lge a (ifranit pre^;iplc<:» of efore uh like a map, Kinking and Kwelling in one -ihle." (Goedo.v.) From the hesi/J of .Victor f^ake a portage Ji M. ioni^ lea^lii t^> the NeplHlfnxit Lake, on whow! K. «hore iM the remarlbihle fKjak called .Mount Teneriffe, N<;ar the outlet 1m a famouH camping-ground, where the fiHhing i« good and in wfaoBe vicinity deer and duckH are found Jt f.akeH ahout Hix days to descend the Nf.pixi(;uit River to the Great Falla, the larger part of the way heing through fon^ta of fir and between distant rarjges of hare granit*; hill«. Theie \n a J'rovincial highway which follow« the W. ohore of the Tobique River, and trjuche« the lower end of Mctor f.Jike, whence it run« N. and N. E. acro«s the iininhahitf^l valley of the L'psaifiuitch tu Campl>ellton, on the Be8tigouche. (See RfjuU; 14.) 6 M. above Tobique i.s the moutb of the Aroostook River, which trav- erses a great area of northern Maine, and for the last 5 M. of its course is in Nevv'lJrunswick. It is not easily navigable on account of several rapids and the falls near Fort Fairfield; yet great quantities of lumber are floated down its current. There is a thriving village near the mouth of the river. 7 M. farther N. the hamlet of Grand Falls Portage is jjassed, and the road leaves the St. John, which here begins a broad bend to the W. About 10 M. above the Portage the steamboat or stage reaches Grand Folk (2 inns), otherwise known as Colebrooke. This town has about 700 inhabitants, and is picturesquely situated on a narrow peninsula near the cataract. It was formerly a fortified post of the British army, and is now the capital of Victoria County. It is hoped that large manufacturing interests will be developed here when the railway is completed from Woodstock to liivi^re du Loijp. Daily stages leave for Woodstock and for Pilviere du Loup; and steamboats descend the river during the brief seasons of navigation, 'i'he environs of the village are remarkable for their picturesque beauty, and the view from the Suspension Bridge over the gorge of the St. John is worthy of notice. 'i'he ** Grand Falls are near the village, and form the most imposing cataract in the Maritime Provinces. The river expands into a broad ba.sin above, affording a landing-place for descending canoes; then hurries its massive current into a narrow rock-bound gorge, in which it slants down an incline of G ft., and then plunges over a precipice of calcareous slate 00 AV;..vi3. OKAXP FAIJA dS ft, high. The ?h5\pt> of the tall i? singular. j^ii\oe the water leaps firam the fr\nic and fivui bv^th sivle?, Avith minor and detjichevl oas^n^des over the onter ledges. Below the catai-act the river Avhirls and -whitens ibr j M. thrvnigh a rugg^l gorge 250 it. wide, Avhose walls of dark nx^k aiv fivm 100 to 240 It. high. "It is a nai-row and frightful chasm, laslied by the troubled water, and excavated by boiling eddies and whirljxxvls always in motion; at last the water plunges in an immense fivthy sheet into a basin K'low, whex^ it becomes tranquil, and the stivam resumes its origi- nal featm-es.'* Within the goi"ge the xnver falls 5S tt. more, and the rug- ired shvnvs ai'e strewn with the wrecks of lumbei-ratts which have become entangled hei-^. The traveller slunild try to visit the Falls Avhen a raft is alx^ut j^asc^ing over. S-4 M. below the Falls is the dangeivus JRapkie d« Femme. Small steamers have been placeil on the river above the Falls, and have run as tar as the mouth of the St. Francis, Co M. distant. It is a tradition of tht> Micmacs that in a wnioto aj:«> two fitnulies of thdr tribe wejv on tho uvnvr St. John hvintinjj. and wtnv s^ni-vris^xt by a ^^■^^J^-v^'*»*^^■ '^t' th«» strai^w and diwndtxl Northern Indians. Tho lattor wow vU'sJooudinsj the rivor to at- tack tho lowor Miomao viUajivs, and t^rvt^l tho oaptniwl women to v^lot then* down. A tVw miles aK>Ye the tails they askevl tl\eir \iuwiUing gnidt\< if tho strt>am was all snxivth Wlow. and on iwoivin^i an atRrvnative answer, la*ht\l tho eanvxvs ti^wther into a raft, and wei\t to skv\\ exhausttxt with their nunn^h. When nt>ar the Oraud rails tho wonunx qnietly dropvH\l overboai>t and swam ashore, while the h^xstile wjup- riors. w\-avH^Ht in slmnbor, wviv swept vlown into the rapids, only to awaken when osoav>o was impossible. Their Kxiies weiv stripptxt by the Miomaos (.\u the river be- low, and the brave women weiv ever alterwvrvi held in t\igh honor by the tribe. Classing the St. John at Gi-and Falls, the stage ascends the E, bank of the stream, and soon enters the Acadian-Fivnch settlements and farming- districts. S-10 M. up the ivad is the village of *S^ Zcomi/x?, nearly all of Avhose people ai-e French; and on the American shoix? (f^^r the St. John Kiver is for many leagues the fivntier between the nations) is the simi- larly constitutCvl village of Van Bhiyh vtwo inns). This district is largely peopled by the Cyr. Yiolette, and Michaud families. The Hon. Arthnr Gorvioix thns describe* one of tht\: " The whole .HsvHCt of the fju-m w.-us that of a metairit in Nor- mani^v ; the onter d<.x>x-s of the honse gandily v^'»lutt\l. the v^uxels of a ditfewnt color fivm the frame, — the hu-gv\ o^hhu nnoarjvftxl x\xun, with its bart> shiniuj* floor, — the lasses at the spiixning-whet'l. — the Fn^neh coc^tnme and app«.'«rauce of Madsune Violet and her sons and daughters, — all carrioil me back to the other sivlo ofthe AtLantio.'- Grand i?/iYr (Tarditrs inn) is a hamlet about 4 M. bevond St. Leonard, at the mouth of the river of the same name. The St. John Hivtr to thi JRestigouche, A rxiggxxl wilderness-jonrney may ht^ made on this line, bv ensxasjinsr Acadian gnides and oan^vs at tho Madawaska sottlemouts. ;w 4 wivks w'ill W snthoient time to ivaoh the Rhy ofOhalouv, with plenty ottishinj;' on the wav. On h\Hving the St. John the voyag^n-s ascend the Ouand Kiver to its tribntary . theWaapuisis." A ^HU't- .age of r>-t> M. fivui this snvam lends to the W,Hag:in. down wh(.\!ti^ciniche isentciwl (stH>Konte 15 ; see .also Hon. Arthnr Gouiou in " Vacation Tonrists " for l^t52 - 1^. p. 477), MAD AW ASK A. Route 13. 57 6 M. above Grand River is St. Basil (two inns), which, with its back settlements, has over 1,400 inhabitants. A few miles beyond are some islands in the St. John River, over which is seen the American village of Grant Isle (Levecque's inn), a place of 700 inhabitants, all of whom are Acndians. This village was incorporated in 1869, and is on the U. S. mail- route from Van Buren to Fox't Kent. Beyond the populous village of Green River the road continues around the great bend of the St. John to the Acadian settlement which is variously known as Madawaska, Ed- mundston, and Little Falls. There are about 400 inhabitants here, most of whom are engaged in lumbering and in agriculture. The town occupies a favorable position at the confluence of the Madawaska and St. John Rivers, and it is to be the objective point of the New Brunswick Railway (see page 50) during the year 1875. This is the centre of the Acadian- French settlements which extend from the Grand Falls to the mouth of the St. Francis, and up the Madawaska to Temiscouata Lake. This dis- trict is studded with Roman Catholic chapels, and is divided into narrow farms, on which are quaint little houses. There are rich tracts of intervale along the rivers, and the people are generally in a prosperous and happy condition. The visitor should ascend to the top of the loftily situated old block-house tower, over Edmundston, for the sake of the wide prospect over the district. This people is descemlod from the French colonists who lived on the shores of the Bay of Fundy and the Basin of Minas at the middle of the 18th century. When the cruel edict of exile was carried into effect in 1755 (see Route 21), many of the Acadians fled from the Anglo-American troops and took refuge in the forest. A por- tion of them ascended the St. John to the present site of Fredericton, and founded a new home ; but they were ejected 30 years later, in order that the land might be given to the refugee American Loyalists. Then they advanced into the trackless forest, and settled in the Madawaska region, where they have been permitted to re- main undisturbed. When the American frontier was pushed forward to the St. John River, by the sharp diplomacy of Mr. AVebster, the Acadians found themselves divided by a national boundary ; and so they still remain, nearly half of the villages being on the side of the United States. It is estimated that there are now about 8,000 persons in these settlements. " It was pleasant to drive along the wide flat intervale which formed the Mada- waska Valley ; to see the rich crops of oats, buckwlieat, and potatoes ; the large, often handsome, and externally clean and comfortable-looking houses of the inhab- itants, with the wooded high grounds at a distance on our right, and the river on our left, — on which an occasional boat, laden with stores for the lumberers, with the help of stout horses, toiled against the current towards the rarely visited head- waters of the tributary streams, where the virgin forests still stood unconscious of the axe. This beautiful valley, with the rich lands which border the river above the mouth of the Madawaska, as far almost as that of the river St. Francis, is the peculiar seat of the old Acadian-French." (Prof. Johnston.) The American village of Madawaslca (two inns) is opposite Edmundston, and has over 1,000 inhabitants. The U.S. mail-stages run from this point up the val- ley of the St. John for 10 M. to another Acadian village, which was first named Dionne (in honor of Father Dionne, who founded here the Church of St. Luce) ; in 1869 was incorporated as Dickeyville, in honor of some local statesman ; and in 1871 received the name of Frenchville, " as describing the nationality of its settlers." From near Frenchville a portage 5 M. long leads to the shores of Lake Clevelandl, a fine sheet of water 9 M. long, connected by Second Lake and Lake Preble with Lake Sedgwick, which is nearly 10 M. long. 3=^ 58 Route 13. TEMISCOUATA LAKE. 16 M. S. W. of Madawaska is Fort Kent, an old border-post of the U. S. Army. It has two inns and about 1,000 inhabitants (including the adjacent farming settle- ments), and is the terminus of the mail-route from Yan Buren. From this point stages run W. 20 M. to the Acadian Tillage of St. Francis, near the mouth of the St. Francis River. The latter stream, flowing from the N. "W., is the boundary of the United States for the next 40 M., descending through the long lakes called Wela- stookwaagamis, Pechtaweekaagomic, and Pohenegamook. Above the mouth of the St. Francis, the St. JohnEiyer is included in the State of Maine, and flows through that immense and trackless forest which covers " an extent seven times that of the famous Black Forest of Germany at its largest expanse in modern times. The States of Rhode Island, Connecticut, and Delaware could be lost together in ovir northern forests, and still leave about each a margin of wilderness sufiiciently wide to make the exploration without a compass a work of desperate adventure." Its chief tributary in the woods is the AUagash, which descends from the great Lakes Pemgockwahen and Chamberlain, near the Chesuncook and Moosehead Lakes and the head-waters of the Penobscot. The U. S. mail-stages also run S. from Fort Kent to Patten, about 100 M. S., near Mount Katahdin : whence another stage-line runs out to Mattaicamkeag, on the E. & N. A. Railway (see page S9), in 3S M. 8-10 M. S. of Fort Kent, by this road, is Lake TTinthrop (15 M. long by 1-3 M. wide), the westernmost of the great Eagle liakes, femous for their white-fish and burbot. At Edmundston the Eoyal mail-route leaves the St. John Elver, and ascends the "W. shore of the Madawaska. But few settlements are passed, and at 12 M. from Edmundston the Province of Quebec is entered. About 25 M. from Edmundston the road reaches the foot of the picturesque Temisconata Lake, where thei-e is a small village. The road is parallel with the water, but at a considerable distance from it, until near the U-pper part, and pretty views are afforded from various points where it overlooks the lake. Temisconata is an Indian word meaning " Winding Water," and the lake is 30 M. long by 2 - 3 ]M. wide. The scenery' is very pretty, and the clear deep waters contain many fish, the best of which are the tuladi, or great gray ti'out, which sometimes weighs over 12 pounds. There are also white- fish and burbot. Visitors to the lake usually stop at Foumier's old inn, where canoes may be obtained. From the W., Temisconata receives the Cabineau Eiver, the outlet of Long Lake (15 by 2 M.); and on the E. is the Tuladi Eiver, which rises in the highlands of Eimouski and flows down through a chain of secluded and rarely visited lakelets. The chief settle- ment on Temisconata Lake is the French Catholic hamlet of Notre Dame du Lac, which was founded since 1861 and has ISO inhabitants. The mili- tary works of Fort Ingalls formerly commanded the lake, and had a gar- rison of 200 men as late as 1850. " Temiscouata Lake is a fine large sheet of water, 20 M. long; it is deep, contains plenty of fish, and there are hills about it, down the valleys and ravines of which rush winds which occasion sudden and dangerous agitation in the dark waters." The road from Temiscouata Lake to Eiviere du Loup is 40-50 M. long, and descends through a wild region into Avhich a few settlers have advanced within fifteen years. SHEDIAC. Route U. 59 14. St. John to Shediac. Distances. — St. John to Moncton, 89 M. : Painsec Junction, 97; Dorchester Road, 102 ; Shediac, 106 ; Point du Chene, 108. ' St. John to Painsec Junction, see Route 16. Passengers for Shediac and Point du Chene change cars at Painsec Junction, and pass to the N. E. over a level and unproductive country. Shediac {Kirh Hotel) is a marine village of 600 inhabitants, with 3 churches, — Baptist, the Catholic St. Joseph de Shediac, and St. Andrew's, the head of a rural deanery of the Anglican church. The town is well situated on a broad harbor, which is sheltered by Shediac Island, but its commerce is inconsiderable, being limited to a few cargoes of lumber and deals sent annually to Great Britain. The small oysters ( Ostrea canadensis) of the adjacent waters are also exported to the provincial cities. Shediac was occupied by a French garrison in 1750, to protect the borders of Acadia, and in 1757 there were 2,000 French and Acadian troops and settlers here. The French element is still predominant in this vicinity, and its interests ai-e represented by a weekly paper called "Ze Moniteur Acadien.''^ Faint du Chene (Schurman's Point du Chene House) is 2 M. N. E. of Shediac, and is the E. terminus of the railway and the St. Lawrence port nearest to St. John. It has a village of about 200 inhabitants, with long piers reaching out to the deep-water channels. From this point passen- gers embark on the steamers for Prince Edward Island, the N. shore of New Brunswick (see Route 15), and Quebec and the Gulf Ports. Daily steamers run from Shediac to Summerside, P. E. I., where they make connections with the trains of the P. E. I. Railway (see Route 43). The Gulf Ports steamers ply between Point du Chene and Pictou, the time of transit being about 12 hours, and the route being down the Northumber- land Strait, with the red shores of Prince Edward Island on the 1. In the time-tables and circulars of the steamships and railways, the term Shediac is generally used for Point du Chene. The Westmorland Coast. Infrequent mail-stages run E. from Shediac by Point du Chene to Barachois, 8 M. ; Tedi3h,17; Great Shemogue (Avard's Hotel), 22; and Little Shemogue, 24. These settlements contain about 1,500 inhabitants, most of whom are Acadians. Capes Jourimain (fixed white light, visible 14 M.) and Tor- mentine are respectively 15 M. and 20 M. E. of Little Shemogue. 10-12M. N. of Shediac (mail-stage daily) are the large and prosperous Acadian settle- ments of the Cocagnes (three inns), having about 1,500 inhabitants, seven eighths of whom are of French descent. These people are nearly all farmers, engaged in tilling the level plains of Dundas, although a good harbor opens between the villa2;es. 21 M. from Shediac is Buclouche (two inns), a prosperous Acadian village of 400 inhab- itants, engaged in shipbuilding and in the exportation of lumber and oysters. 60 Route 15. RICHIBUCTO. 15. The Bay of Chaleur and the North Shore of New Brunswick. The vessels of the Quebec and Gulf Ports Steamship Line, the Secret and the Mtramichi, leave Pictou every Tuesday morning at 7 o'clock, and Shediac (Point du Chene) every Tuesday evening at 7 (after the arrival of the St. John train). They then ascend the coast, leaving Chatham at 7 a. m. on TS'ednesday, XeTvcastle at 8 A M. on Wednesday, and Dalhousie at 4 a.m. on Thursday (for Quebec). Returning, they leave Dalhousie at 9 p.m. on Thursday, Chatham at 4 p. m. on Friday, New- castle at 6 P.M. on Friday, Shediac at 3 a.m. on Saturday (connecting with the morning train to St. John), and arrive at Pictou at 1 p. m. on Saturday (connecting with the afternoon train to Halifax). These hours are liable to variation ou account of the weather, or if heavy freights are landed or taken at any port. The Gulf Ports vessels are larger and more commodious than that of the Xorth Shore Line, but they do not visit Ri'chibucto, Bathurst, or Campbellton. (See also Route .) The North Shore steamer City of St. John leaves Shediac (Point du Chene) every Thursday, on the arrival of the morning train from St. John, and calls at Richi- bucto, Chatham, Newcastle, Bathurst, Dalhousie, and Campbellton. Chatham is reached on Thursday evening, the Bay-of-Chaleur ports on Friday. The steamer leaves the Bay-of-Chaleur ports on Monday, and the Miramichi ports on Tuesday, arriving at Shediac Tuesday evening, and connecting with a late train for St John. Fares (North Shore LiueV — St. John (bv railwav and steamship) to Richibucto, S5; to Chatham and Newcastle, S6.50; to'Bathurst, 8 9 50; to Dalhousie, §10; to Campbellton, S 10.50. Distances from Shediac along the N. shore: To Richibucto, by sea, 38 M., bv land, 34 M. : to Chatham, by sea, 80 M., by land, 74 M. ; to Bathurst, by land, 122 M. ; to Dalhousie, by sea, 220 M., by land, 175 M. Daily mail-stages run N. by Cocagne and Buctouche to Richibucto, Chatham, and Newcastle. The steamship leaves the long railway wharf at Point du Chene, and passes the low shores of Shediac Island on the 1. The course is laid well out into the Northumberland Strait. Between Shediac Point and Cape Egmont (on Prince Edward Island) the strait is nearly 20 M. wide. On the 1. the harbors of Cocagne and Buctouche (see page 59) are soon passed. 14^ M. X. of Buctouche are the low clitfs and lighthouse of Jtichibucto Head, beyond which (if the weather permits) the steamer takes a more westerly course, and enters the great Eichibucto Eiver, which empties its stream through a broad lagoon enclosed by sand-bars. RicMbucto {Kent Hotel) is the capital of Kent County, and occupies a favorable position for commerce and shipbuilding, near the mouth of the Eichibucto Eiver. It has about 800 inhabitants and 3 churches, and is engaged in the exportation of fish and lumber. The river is navigable for 20 M., and has been a gi-eat highway for lumber-vessel?, although now tho supplv of the forests is wellnigh exhausted. The rubbish of the saw- mills has destroyed the once valuable fisheries in this river. In the region about Eichibucto are many Acadian farmers, and the hamlet of Aldouin Elver, 4 M. from the town, pertains to this people. Daily stages iiiu from Eichibucto to Shediac and to Chatham (see page 61). A road leads S. ^Y. through the wilderness to the Grand Lake district (Eoute 10). The name Richibucto signifies "the River of Fire," and the shores of the river and bay were formerly inhabited by a ferocious and bloodthirsty tribe of Indians. So late as 1787, when the American Loyalist Powell settled here, there were but four Christian fomihes (and they were Acadians) in all this region (the present county of Kent). The power of the Richibuctos was broken in 1724, when all their warriors, CHATHAM. Route 15. 61 under command of Argimoosh (" the Great Wizard "), attacked Canso and captured 17 Massachusetts vessels. Two well-manned vessels of Boston and Cape Ana were sent after them, and overtook the Indian fleet on the coast. A desperate naval battle ensued between the Massachusetts sloops and the Indian prize-ships. The Richi- buctos fought with great valor, but were finally disconcerted by showers of hand- grenades from the Americans, and nearly every warrior was either killed or drowned. After emerging from Richibucto harbor, the steamer runs N. across the opening of the shallow Kouchibouguac Bay, whose shores are low sand- bars and beaches which enclose shoal lagoons. 5 M. above Point Sapin is Escuminac Pointy on which is a powerful white light, visible for 25 M. The course is now laid more to the W., across the Miramichi Bay, and on the 1. are seen the pilots' village and the lighthouses on Preston's Beach. The entrance to the Inner Bay of Miramichi is between Fox Island and Portage Island, the latter of which bears a lighthouse. The Inner Bay is 13 M. long and 7-8 M. wide, and on the S. is seen Vin Island, back of which is the Bay du Vin. Two centuries ago all this shore was occupied by French settlements, whose only remnant now is the hamlet of Portage Road, in a remote corner of the bay. When about 9 M. from the entrance, the steamer passes between Point Quart and Grand Dune Island (on the r.), which are 3| M. apart. 3-4 M. farther on, the course is between Oak Point, with its two lighthouses (on the r.), and Cheval Point, beyond which is the populous valley of the Napan River, on the S. The hamlet of Black Brook is visible on the 1., and off Point Napan is Sheldrake Island, a low and swampy land lying across the mouth of the river. The vessel now enters the Miramichi River, and on the r, is the estuary of the Great Bartibog, with the beacon- lights on Malcolm Point. The Miramichi is here a noble stream, fully 1 M. Avide, but flowing between low and uninteresting shores. Chatham ( Canada Hotel; Bowser's Hotel) is the chief town on the North Shore, and has a population of nearly 3,000, with 5 churches, a weekly newspaper, and a Masonic hall. It is 24 M. from the sea, and is built along the S. shore of the river for a distance of 1^ M, On the summit of the hill along which the town is built is seen a great pile of Catholic in- stitutions, among which are the Cathedral of St. Michael, the convent and hospital of the Hotel Dieu de Chatham, and St. Michael's College. These buildings, like all the rest of the town, are of wood. The chief industries of Chatham are shipbuilding and the exportation of fish and lumber, and the river here usually contains several large ships, which can anchor off the wharves in 6 - 8 fathoms. Daily stages run N. from Chatham to Bathurst, in 45 M., over a road which trav- erses one of the dreariest regions imaginable. About 22 M. beyond Chatham it crosses the head-waters of the Tabusintac River, " the sportsman's paradise," a narrow and shallow stream in which an abundance of trout is found. Semi-weekly stages run from Chatham N. E. to Oak Point, 11 M. ; Burnt Church, 20 ; Neguac, 25 ; Tabusintac, 37 ; Tracadie, 52 ; Pockmouche, 64 ; Shippigan, 70 ; and Caraquette (Lower), 73. The first 80 M. of this road are along (or near) the N. shore of the Miramichi River and the Inner Bay, by the hamlets of Oak Point and Burnt Church. 62 -P-:-f.- i5. THE MIRAMICHI. Burnt Clmrcli :? ?tn tho cspital of the Mwn^o IndJans of the PrPTinfe, a&d bei« thev cstbe r ir. jrrt^.: iiiimKTS on St, Anne's IVst ai-.d engspf in rel^'cwus rites smd athletic sycr:< sr.d dance*. Hon. Anhxir Gordon sa>-s:""I \v»s surprised by the curious resen-it^anoe K^tween thes^f dsiices snd tho^^of the Greek peasuitrT. Eren the costumes -were in sonie diKree simiisr. iuid 1 uotieed more thjui c«ie shcart colosred-siik jpscket and handkeiv-hfef-K->und he&d that carried me back to Ithaca and Paxo." (Vacation Torsisrs. IS^^ ) Tattusuitar vsniail inn"* is n«ir the mouth of the Tabusintac RiTer. and is a PresbTterian TiBace of aK-vut 400 inhabitants, most of vrhc«a are enptged in the fisheries. Many ^rge sea-tK>ut aiv caught ntxir the mouth of the river, and in October immense nxunbers of xrild geese and ducks ai>? shot in the adjacent lagoons. Tra«»die is a settioment -which contains 1.2C0 French Aoadians. and is situated n«ar a bmad ia4^.x>n ■which Eos inside a line of sand-bars. Sv%imon, cod, and herring ai^ found in the adjacent asters, and mo5t of the people ane engagevl in the fish- eries. The Th:.'-^,:!.' iL<::iT-:r:i-' is deroted to theiwepticsa of persons afflicted with the leprosy, whioh prevails to scaiie extent in this disuict, but has diminished since the gv?vernment secluded the leper? in this lemote hospital There is an old tradi- tionthat the leprosy -was introduced into this region during the last century, when a French vessel was" -wxvx-ked on the coast, some of whost^sailors were front Mar- seilles and had conrraored the true fr Era runs up the river fovir tin^s daily to New- castle (6 M-K touching at IVuglastown. a dingy village on the X. bank, where much lumber is loaded on the ships which take it hence to" Europe. This village contains about 400 inhaJbituits, and has a marine hospital, bxiilt of stone. Kewcastle ( Wacerhii Hotel) i$ the capinil of Xortliumberland County, and is situated at the head of deep-water navigation on the Miramiohi Biver. It has about 1,500 inhabitants, and is engag^ed in shipbiiilding and the exportation of fish and lumber, oysters, and preserved lobsters. One of the chief stations of the Intercolonial Kailvray -will be located here, and a branch line is to be built to Chatham, A short distance above Xewcastle, and beyond tlie Irish village of Nel- son, is the confluence of the great rivers kno>vn as the X. W. Minunichi and the S. W. Miramiehi. These streams are crossed by the lai^st and most costly bridges on the line of the Inteicoloni;\l Railway. The name Jfircunichi signifies "Happy Eetreat." and signifies the lore that tlie In- dians entertained for these fine hunting and fishing grounds. The upper waters of the rivers traverse wide districts of unsettled countn", and are visited by hardy and adventurous sportsmen, who capture large numbers of trout and salmon. This system of waters is connected by portages with the Xepisiguit, the Eestigouche, the Upsalquitch, tlie Tobique, and the Kashwaak Kivers. The best salmon-pools are on the S. W. Miramiehi, beyond Boiestowu, at the mouths of the Salmon, Kockv. Clearwater, and Burnt Hill Brooks. A tri-weekly stage runs from Xewcastle to Boies- town and Fredericton (see page 46), travei-^iug 105 M. of a rude and sparsely settled country. SHIPPIGAN ISLAND. Route 15. G3 Beaubair^s Island is off upper Nelson, and was formerly occupied by a prosperous French town , but few relics of which are now to be seen. It was destroyed by a British naval attack in 1759. A colony was planted here in 1722, under Cardinal Fleury's administration, and was provided with 200 houses, a church, and a 16-gua battery. In 1642-44 the Miramichi district was occupied by Jean Jaques Enaud, a Basque gentleman, who founded trading-posts on the islands and entered also upon the walrus fisheries. But a contention soon aro.«e between Enaud's men and the In- dians, by reason of which the Basque establishments were destroyed, and their peo- ple were forced to flee to Nepisiguit. In 1G72, after the Treaty of Breda, several families from St. Malo landed on this coast and founded a village at Bay du Vin. From 1740 to 1757 a flourishing trade was carried on between the Miramichi country and France, great quantities of furs being exported. But the crops failed in 1757, and the relief-ships from France were captured by the British. In the winter of 1758 the transport L'/nc/(enne, of Morlaix, was wrecked in the bay, and the dis- heartened colonists, famished and pestilence-stricken, were rapidly depleted by death. Many of the French settlers died during the winter, and were buried on Beaubair's Point. Those who survived fled from the scene of such bitter suffering, and by the arrival of spring there were not threescore inhabitants about the bay. In 1759 a British war-vessel entered the bay for wood and water, and the first boat's-crew which landed was cut off and exterminated by the Indians. The frigate bombarded the French Fort batteries, and annihilated the town at Canadian Cove. Then sailing to the N. E., the commander landed a force at Neguac, and burnt the Catholic chapel, the inhabitants having fled to the woods. Neguac is known to this day only by the name of Burnt Church. After this fierce foray all the N. coast of New Brunswick was deserted and relap.sed into a wilderness state. In 1775 there was an insignificant Scotch trading-post on the S. W. Miramichi, ■where 1 ,500 - 1 ,800 tierces of salmon were caught annually. This was once surprised and plundered by the Indians in sympathy with the Americans, but in 1777 the river was visited by the sloop-of-war Viper and the captured American privateer Lafayette. The American flag was displayed on the latter vessel, and it was given out that her crew were Bostonians, by which means 35 Indians from the great coun- cil at Bartibog were decoyed on board and carried captive to Quebec. In 1786 the Scottish settlers opened large saw-mills on the N. W. Miramichi, and several families of American Loyalists settled along the shore. Vast numbers of masts and spars were sent hence to the British dock-yards, and the growth of the Miramichi was rapid and satisfactory. In 1793 the Indians of the hills gathered secretly and concerted plans to exterminate the settlers (who had mostly taken refuge in Chatham), but the danger was averted by the interposition of the French Catholic priests, who caused the Indians to disperse. In October, 1825, this district was desolated by the great Miramichi Fire, -which swept over 3,000,000 acres of forest, and destroyed $ 1,000,000 worth of property and 160 human lives. The town of Newcastle was laid in ashes, and all the lower Mi- ramichi Valley became a blackened wilderness. The only escape for life was by rushing into the rivers while the storm of fire passed overhead ; and here, nearly covered by the hissing waters, were men and women, the wild animals of the woods, and the domestic beasts of the farm. On leaving the Miramichi Eiver and Bay the vessel steams out into the Gulf, leaving on the N. W. the low shores of Tabusintac and Tracadie, in- dented by wide and shallow lagoons (see page 62). After running about 35 M. the low red cliffs of Shippigan Island are seen on the W. This island is 12 M. long by 8 M. wide, and is inhabited by Acadian fishermen. On the S. W. shore is the hamlet of Alexander Point, on Alemek Bay, opposite the populous village and magnificent harbor of Shippigan. There are valuable fisheries of herring, cod, and mackerel off these shores, and the deep triple harbor is well sheltered by the islands of Shippigan and Pocksuedie, forming a secure haven of refuge for the American and Cana- dian fleets. 64 Route 15. BAY OF CHALEUR. Sliippigan Harbor, though still surrounded by forests, has occupied a prom- inent place in the calcvilations of commerce and travel. It has been proposed that the Intercolonial Railway shall connect here with a transatlantic steamship line, thus Avithdrawing a large portion of the summer travel from Halifax and New York. The distance from Shippigan to Liverpool by the Straits of Belleisle is 148 M. less than the distance from Halifax to Liverpool, and Shippigan is 271 M. nearer Montreal than is Halifax. The Ocean Ferry. — The following plan is ingeniously elaborated and pow- erfully supported, and 'is perhaps destined to reduce the transatlantic passage to 100 hours. It is to be carried out with strong, swift express-steamers on the Ocean and the Gulf, and through trains on the railways. The itinerary is as follows : London to Valentia, 640 M., 16 hours ; Valentia to St. John's, N. F., 1,640 M., 100 hours ; St. John's to St. George's Bay (across Newfoundland by railway), 250 M., 8J hours; St. George's Bay to Shippigan (across the Gulf), 250 M., 15^ hours; Shippigan to New York, 906 M., 31 hours ; London to New York, 171 hours, or H days. It is claimed that this route would escape the dangers between Cape Race and New l''ork ; would give usually quiet passages across the Gulf ; would diversify the monotony of the long voyage by three transfers, and would save 4-6 days on the recorded averages of the steamships between New York and Liverpool (see maps and details in Sandford Fleming's " Intercolonial Railway Survey"). The steamer now crosses the Miscou Banks, and approaches Miscou Island, which is 20 M. in circumference and contains about 300 inhab- itants. On its S. shore is a fine and spacious harbor, which is much used as a place of refuge in stormy weather by the American fishing-fleets. Settlements were formed here early in the 17th century by the French, for the purpose of hunting the walrus, or sea-cow. Such an exterminating war was waged upon this valviable aquatic animal that it soon became extinct in the Gulf, and was followed into the Arctic Zone. Within five years a few walruses have been seen in the Gulf, and it is hoped that they may once more enter these waters in droves. At an early date the Jesuits established the mission of St. Charles de Miscou, but the priests were soon killed by the climate, and no impression had been made on the Indians. It is claimed that there may still be seen the ruins of the post of the Royal Company of Miscou, which was founded in 1635 for the pursuit offish and walruses, and for a time derived a great reveniie from this district. Fortifications were also erected here by M. Denys, Sieur de Fronsac. The steamer alters her com-se gradually to the W. and passes the fixed red light on Birch Point, and Point Miscou, with its high green knoll. Between Point Miscou and Cape Despair, 25 M. N., is the en- trance to the Bay of Chaleur. The Bay of Chaleur was known to the Indians by the name of Echetuam NemaacJie, signifying " a Sea of Fish," and that name is still applicable, since the bay contains every variety of fish known on these coasts. It is 90 M. long and from 10 to 25 M. wide, and is nearly free from shoals or dangerous reefs. The waters are comparatively ti-anquil, and the air is clear and bracing and usually free from fog, affording a marked contrast to the climate of the adjacent Gulf coasts. The tides are regular and have but little velocity. The length of the bay, from Point Miscou to Camp- bellton, is about 110 M. These waters are visited every year by great American fleets, manned by the hardy seamen of Cape Cod and Glouces- ter, and valuable cargoes of fish are usually carried back to the Massa- chusetts ports. BATHURST. Route 15. Q^ - This bay was discovered by Jaques Cartier in the summer of 1535, and, from the fact that the heated season was at its height at that time, he named it La Baie des Chaleurs (the Bay of Heats). On the earliest maps it is also called La Baie des Espag7iols, indicating that it was frequented by Spanish vessels, probably for the purposes of fishing. In these waters is located the scene of the old legend of the Massachusetts coast, relative to Skipper Ireson's misdeed, which, with the record of its punishment, has been commemorated in the poetry of Whittier : — ' Small pity for him ! — He sailed away From a leaking ship in Chaleur Bay, — Sailed away from a sinking wreck, With his own town's-people on her deck I ' Lay by ! lay by ! ' they called to him ; Back he answered, ' Sink or swim ! Brag of your catch of fish again ! ' And oif he sailed through the fog and rain. Old Floyd Ireson, for his hard heart, Tarred and feathered and carried in a cart By the women of Marblehead. " Fathoms deep in dark Chaleur That wreck shall lie forevermore. Mother and sister, wife and maid, Looked from the rocks of Marblehead Over the moaning and rainy sea, — Looked for the coming that might not be ! What did the winds and the sea-birds say Of the cruel captain who sailed away ? — Old Floyd Ireson, for his hard heart, Tarred and feathered and carried in a cart By the women of Marblehead." When well within the bay the steamer assumes a course nearly S. W., leaving Miscou and Shippigan Islands astern. The broad Caraquette Bay is on the S., and the New-Bandon shores (see page 66) are followed into Nepisiguit Bay. The harbor of Bathurst is entered by a strait two cables wide, between Alston Point and Carron Point, on the former of which there are red and white beacon-lights. Bathurst {Bay Vieiv Hotel) is the capital of Gloucester County, and has about 600 inhabitants. It is favorably situated on a peninsula in the har- bor, 2^ M. from the bay, and is connected by a bridge with the village of St. Peter's. Large quantities of fish are sent hence to the American cities during the summer; and the exportation of frozen salmon has become an important business. The Intercolonial Railway has a station near Bathurst, which will probably be one of its chief ports on this bay. The beautiful Basin of Bathurst receives the waters of four rivers, and its shores are already well populated by farmers. The Basin of Bathurst was called by the Indians WinkapiguwicJc, or Nepisiguit, signifying the " Foaming Waters." It was occupied in 1638 by M. Enaud, a wealthy Basque gentleman, and his retainers, forming a town called St. Pierre. Enaud mar- ried a Mohawk princess, founded mills , and established an extensive fur-trade, erect- ing a commodious mansion at Abshaboo (Coal Point), at the mouth of the Nepisiguit, But some family troubles ensued, and Madame Enaud's brother slew her husband, after which the French settlements were plundered by the Indians, and such of the inhabitants as could not escape by way of the sea were massacred. By 1670 the Chaleur shores were again studded with French hamlets, and occu- pied by an industrious farming population. In 1692 the Micmacs confederated against them, and, under the command of the sagamore Halion, completely devas- tated the whole district and compelled the settlers to fly to Canada. Thenceforward for 74 years this country was unvisited by Europeans, In 1764: a Scotch trading- post and fort was erected at Alston Point, on the N. shore of Bathurst harbor, and thence were exported great quantities of furs, mpose-skins, walrus hides and tusks, and salmon. In 1776 this flourishing settlement was destroyed by American priva- teers, which also devastated the othgr shores of Chaleur. The present town was founded in 1818 by Sir Howard Douglas, and was named in honor of the Earl of Bathurst. The Nepisiguit River empties into Bathurst harbor, and is famous for its fine fishing (it is now leased). A road ascends thp "^^ bank for about GG Ec::tcl5. CAEAQUEITE, So M^ passing the Kotigh Waters, the brilliant rapids of the Pabineaw Falls (? M. \ip\ the darkxHx^ls of the Botjiboo ivach, the Chain of EoclvS, and the Xarrvnvs. The * Grand Falls of the ^Nopisiguit ai\^ 20 M. above Bathurst, and oonsii^t of 4 distinct and stoi>-liko clirtV, with a total height of 140 rt, Thoy aro at the head of the Xarixnv!?, Avhovo the river flows for S - 4 M. thixnigh a canon between high clitVs of slaty rock. The river boldly takes the leap over this Titanic stairway, and the ensuing ro:\r is deafen- ing, while the base of the clitV is shrvnided in Avhite spn\y. Fivm the pro- fonnd depths at the foot the river whirls aAvay in a black and foani-tlecked course for 2 M. The descent of timber over the Falls attbrvls an exciting speoti\cle, and the logs aiv souietimes sliot out clear beyond the lower terraces and alight in the pool below. " Good by, lovely Nopisigiut, stiwuit cvf the beaiitiftil pools, the fishomian's olT^iiui\; fiCiv-woU to tl\.Y merry, noisy ourwnt, thj- Ions: nuiet stK?tohes. thy high blutYs, thy woovltxl and thy rvvk>- shoivs. Long may thy mnsio lull tho iuno^vxit :mgler into day-«.iivjuus of happiuoss. Long may thy nmiantio stvnory charm the eyo and gladdou tho heart of the artist, and welev>me the angler to a happy sylvau home." iKoosKVKLT."^ Tho * Grtiiiti Falls of the Tete-A-gonohe Kiver are abont S M. W. of Bjithnrst, and may be visited by carriage. The river here MLs about 80 ft., amid a wild confusion of rocks and cliffis. Tri-weekly stages run F. from Bathurst to Salmon Beach, S M. ; James- ville, 12: Clitton, 15: Xew Bandon, 20: Pockshaw, 23: Grand Anse, 2S; Upper Caraqnette, SO: Lower Caraqnette, 43: Shippipm, 60. Faiv to Oaraquette, S 3.50. This ivad follows the shores of the Xepisiguit Bay and the Bay of Clvidenr for nearly SO M. The hamlets of Cliffoti ^small inn) and Xitc Bi^ndon woi-e settled by Irish imniigr;\nts, and are now engaged in making grindstones. PockshaAv has tni inn and about 000 inhabitants. Grand Anse is an Acadian settlen\ent, and has 700 inhabitants, who are engtiged in tanning :md tishiug. Thence the ivad runs 8 M. S. F, to Upper Cai^tiuttt^, Avlwre there are about 000 Acadians. Loictr Coraqu^tte (two inns) is a Ftvnch village of 1,500 inhabitants, and is tamons for its strong, swit\ boats and skilful mariikrs. Caraquette vras founded in 170S by a colony of Bretons, and owed a pjirt of its early growth to intermarriages with the Miomacs. It is a long stivet of farms iu the old Acadian style, and is situated in a fruitful and welU'ultivatovl country. The view from the hills orer the village, and espei'ially from the still vcncraU\l spot whore the old cha^vl stood, is very pU-asjuit, and includes Miscou and S^hippigim, the Gaspe ports, and tho bold QvioKv shores. The .lei-sev house of Kobiu & Co, h;vs one of its fishing-establishments here, and does a larsre business. Caraquette is ouo of the chief stations of the N. shore fishei-ies. In tho year 1S7S the tish product of tho thivo lower Maritime Provinces amouut*Hi to tho >-alue of S9.lHV.342. Nov:\ Scotia caught $0.r>77.lV^0 worth of fish; and Now Brunswick caught S 2.2S5.Gik> worth, of which ?! 527.312 worv of salmon. S500,aX^ of herrinsr. S34o.i>2o of lobsters. § o;^,(.W of civlfish. S10S.-514 of alewivcs. SiX\lXvJ of hake, ;? 1^.300 of poUcvk. 5^ 45.4S0 of oysters. 8 41.S51 of smelt, and 8 35.477 of mackerel. P.uly stages run S. fixnu Bathurst to Chatham (see p:\ire 01). Tri-woeklv stages follow tho coast of tho l^ty of Chaloitr to tho N. W. to XUxliseo ; R(.x>hette", 12 M. ; Bellevlmie. 2i.>; Belledune River. 24: Armstrvnvg's Brook. 28: Kiver Louison. SS; Now Mills. SS: River Charlo. 44: and Palhousie. 52. Mo^list>o and Rivhotto an> French villages ; the others {u>? of British origin, and none of them have as many DALHOUSIE. nnutelO. 67 as 500 inhabitants. Many small streams en tor the bay from this coast and tho whole diHtnct 18 tamous for its fishing and hunting (water-fowl). The 1 ne of this shore is lollowed by the Intercolonial Railway. i "- "u^- oi inis Off Bathurst the Bay of Chaleur is over 25 M. wide, and the steamer passes out and takes a course to the N. W., passing the hamlet of Rochette, and soon rounding Belledune Point. The imposing highlands of the Gas- pesian peninsula are seen on the N. with the peak of Tracadiegash. The passage between Tracadiegash Point and Heron Island is about'r M. wide; and 6-8 M. beyond the steamer pa.sses Maguacha Point {Mayuacha, In- dian for "Always Red") on the r., and enters the liestlgouche Harbor. "To the person approaching by steamer from the sea, is presented one of the most superb and fascinating panoramic views in Canada. The whole recion is mountainous and almost precipitous enough to be alpine ; but its grandeur is derived e.ss from cliffs, chasms, and peaks, than from far-reaching sweeps of out- line, and continually rising domes that mingle with the clouds. On the Gasn^ Bide precipitous cliffs of brick-red sandstone fl;ink the shore,' so loftv that thev seem to cast their gloomy shadows half-way across the Bay, and yawninir with ritts and gullies, through which fretful torrents tumble into the sea. Behind them the mountains rise and fall in long undulations of ultramarine and tow- ering above thom all, is the famous peak of Tracadiegash flashing in the sunlicht hke a pale blue amethyst." (IIallock.) Huniignc Dalhousie {Fraser's Hold) is a village of 600 inhabitants, situated at the mouth of the long estuary of the liestigouche, and is the capital of Restigouche County. It ftices on the harbor from three sides, and has great facilities for commerce and for handling lumber. The manufacture and exportation of lumber are here carried on on a large scale; and the town is also famous for its shipments of lobsters and salmon. The salmon fisheries in this vicinity are of great value and productiveness. The line of the Intercolonial Railway is about 4 M. S. of Dalhousie. The site of this port was called Sickadomec by the Indians. 50 years ago there were but two log-houses here, but the district was soon occupied by hardy Highlanders from Arran, whose new port and metropolis was "located in an alpine wilderness." Directly back of the village is ML Dalhousie, and the harbor is protected by the high shores of Dalhousie Island. Bol nami Point is at the entrance of the harbor, and has a fixed white light; and Fleurant Point is opposite the town, across the estuary. S l^^^^y ^i Chaleur preserves a river-like character for some distance from the point where the river may strictly be said to terminate, and certainly offers the most beautiful scenery to be seen in the Province From Mr Fraser's to fho sea a distance of some 20 M. by water, or 14 by land, the course of the river is ' really beautiful. Swollen to dimensions of majestic breadth, it flows calmly on among picturesque and lofty hills, undisturbed by rapids, and studded with in^ numerable is ands covered with the richest growtli of elm and maple. The whole of the distance from Campbellton to Dalhousie, a drive of 20 M. along the coast vLJ ..?Zo H^^^^"""' *f '^^.«^^?l^?t high-road, presents a succession of beautiful views across the narrow bay, in which Tracadiegash, one of the highest of the Gasn^ Sro^noSe dSu?"*"" ,-,,-°«I--us object: jutting forward aVit does in^otEe sea opposite Dalhousie." (Hon. Arthur Gordox.) the KiinL'L" ''^ T^*"*^ the grandeur and beauty of the approach to the estuary of snSw^fnf ,m;u- f-P^'°*'^l^^^ *^« background, the deep green forest with Its patches of cultivation, and the clear blue of the distant mountams, form a pic- ture of the most exquisite kind." (Sir R. Bonnycastle ) ' ^ GS Tunde 15. CAMPBELLTOX. "The expanse of three miles across the month of the Kestigouche, the dreamy alpiue laud beyond, and the bro;id plain of the Bay of Ohalenr, pivseut one of the most splendid and fasoinarinir panorauiio pvospivts to be found on the continent of America, and has alone ivwarded ns for the pilgrimage we have made." (Charles Lanm.vx.) The estuary of the Ke?tigonohe is 2-4 M. Avide, and extends from Dal- housie to Cauipbellton, about 16 M. Point a la Garde is 9 M. above Dal- liousie on the X. shore, and isaboki perpendicular promoutory overlooking the harbor. On this and Batterif Point (the next to the W.) Avere the extensive Fivnch fortifications which "were destroyed by Admiral Byron's British squadi-on in 17S0. Several pieces of artillery and other relics have been obtained from the water off these points. Battery Point is a rocky pivmontory SO ft. high, with a plain on the top, and a deep channel around its shores. Point Pleasant is 4 M. distant, and 1 M. back is a spii-al mass of granite 700 t^. -high, which is accessible by natural steps on the E. 1^ M. from this peak is a pretty forest-lake, in which red trout are abundant. 5 M. X. of Point a la Garde is the main peak of the Scauuieuac 3Its., Avhich attains an altitude of 1,745 tt. Campbellton (.three hotels) is situated in a diversified region of hills at the head of deep-water navigation on the Kestigouche, which is hei-e 1 M. wide. It has about 600 inhabitants and deals chiefly in the exportation of lumber and fish. One of the chief stations of the Intercolonial Railway is located here. The acljacent country is highly picturesque, and is studded with conical hills, the chief of Avhich is Sugar Loaf, SOO tT:. high. Jfission Point is nearly opposite Campbellton, and is surrounded by fine hill-scenery, which has been likened to that of Wales. The river is rapid otf these shores, and abounds in salmon. This place is also known as Point-ii-la-Croix, and is one of the chief villages and reservations of the Micmac Indians. It has about 500 inhabitants, with a Catholic church. The Micmac language is said to be a dialect of the Huron tongue : while the Mili- cetes, on the St. John River, speak a dialect of Delaware origin. These two tribes have an annual council at Mission Point, at which delegates from the Penobscot Indians are in attendance. The Micmac nation occiipies the waste places of the Maritime Provinces, from Newfoundland to Gaspe. and numbers over 6.000 souls. These Indians ai-e daring and tireless hunters and fishermen, and lead a life of con- stant i\->ving. g-athering" annually at the local capitals, — Chapel Island, in Cape Bi-eton: Ponheok Li^ke.in Nova Scotia : and Mission Point, in Quebec. They are increasing steadily in nimibers. and are becoming more valuable members of the Canadian" nation." They have hardly yet recovered from the terrible defeat which was intlictevi on them by an invading army of Mohawks, in It^oi*. The flower of the Maritime tribes hastened to the border to repel the enemy, but they were met by the Mohawks in the Kestigouche country, and were annihilated on the field of battle. The chief of the Micmacs at Mission Point visited Queen Victoria in ISoO.and was kindly welcomed and receive^.! many presents. When Lord Aylmer, Governor-Gen- enU of Canada, visited Gaspe. he wss wtxited on by 50O Indians, whose chief made him a long harangue. But the tribe had recently recovered from a wreck (among other things'! a bos of decanter-labels, marked Kitm^ Branpt. Gix.etc, and the noble chief, not "knowing their purport, had adorned his ears and nose with them, and Siurrounded his head with a crown of the Sixnie materials. AVhen the British officers recognized the famiUar names, they burst into such a peal of laughter as drove the astonished and incensed chief from their presence forever. RESTIGOUCHE EIVER. Route 15. 69 3 M. above Mission Point is Point au Bourdo, the ancient site of La Petite Rochelle, deriving its present name from Capt. Bourdo, of the French frigate Marchault, who was killed in the battle off this point and was buried here. Fragments of the French vessels, old artilleiy, camp equip- ments, and shells have been found in great numbers in this vicinity. In 1760 Restigouche was defended by 2 batteries, garrisoned by 250 French regu- lars, 700 Acadians, and 700 Indians ; and in the harbor lay the French \Yar-Tessel3 Marchault, 32, Bie7ifaisant , 22, and Marquis Marloye, 18, with 19 prize-ships wJiich had been captured from the English. The place was attacked by a powerful British fleet, consisting of the Fame, 74, Dorsetshire, Scarborough, Achilles, and Repulse, all under the command of Commodore John Byron (grandfather of the poet. Lord By- ron). But little resistance was attempted; and the French fleet and batteries sur- rendered to their formidable antagonist. The captured ships were carried to Louis- bourg, and the batteries and the 200 houses of Restigouche were destroyed. The Restigouche River is a stately stream which is navigable for 135 M. above Campbellton. It runs through level lands for several miles above its mouth, and then is enclosed between bold and rugged shores. There are hundreds of low and level islands of a rich and yearly replenished soil; and above the Tomkedgwick are wide belts of intervale. 30 M. from its mouth it receives the waters of the Metapedia River, flowing down from the Metis Mts. ; and 35 M. from the mouth is the confluence of the trout- abounding Upsalquitch. 21 M. farther up is the mouth of the Patapedia; and 20 M. beyond this point the Tomkedgwick comes in from the N. "W. This system of waters drains over 6,000 square miles of territory'', and is connected by portages with the streams which lead into the Bay of Fundy and the River St. Lawrence. Campbeliton to the St. Lawrence River. The Metapedia Road leaves the N. shore of the Restigouche a few miles above Campbellton, and strikes through the forest to the N. W. for the St. Lawrence River. This is the route of the new Intercolonial Railway, ■which passes up through the wilderness to St. Flavie. The distance from Campbellton to St. Flavie is 111 M., and the fare by stage is $ 9. This road leads across the barren highlands of Gaspe, and through one of the most thinly settled portions of Canada. The French hamlet of 8t. Alexis is near the mouth of the Metapedia River. Metapedia is 15 M. above Campbellton, and is situated amid the pretty scenery at the confluence of the Metapedia and Restigouche Rivers. The salmon-fisheries in this vicinity attract a few enthusiastic sportsmen every year. Near the confluence is the old Fraser mansion, famous among the travellers of earlier days. The Intercolonial Railway crosses the Resti- gouche in this vicinity, and has a station at Metapedia. 60 M. beyond this village is the Metapedia Lake. The Metapedia Lake is 12 M. long by 2 M. wide, and is surrounded by low shores of limestone, above and beyond which are distant ranges of highlands. Its waters abound in tuladi (gray trout), trout, and white-fish, 70 Route 16. ST. JOHN TO HALIFAX. and afford good sporting. The lake contains a large island, -whicli is a favorite breeding-place of loons. St. Flavie (two inns) is a village of 450 French people, situated on the S. shore of tiie Eiver St. Lawrence, and is the. point whei-e the Intercolonial Eaihvay reaches the river and turns to the S. W. towards Quebec. It is distant from Campbellton, 111 ]M. ; from Father Point, 15 M. ; from Eiviere du Loup, 76 M. ; and from Quebec, 201 M. 16. St. John to Amherst and Halifax. Tlie TntercolouLd Railway. This route traverses the S. E. coiuities of New Brunswick, passes the isthmus at the head of the Bay of Fundy, and after crossing the Oobeqiiid Mts. and rounding the head of Cobequid Bay. runs S. W. to the cityof Ilahfax. It traverses some in- teresting districts and has a few glimpses of attractive scenery, but the views are generally monotonous and without any strildug beauties. During calm and pleasant ■weather the traveller will find the Annapohs route (^ste Koute 18) much the pleas- anter way to go from St. John to Hahfax. There is no change of cars between St. John and Halifax, and baggage is checked through During the summer there is a day express-train, leaving St. John at 7 A. M. , and due at Halifax at 7.40 p. M. ; and a night express, leaving St. John at 8.30 P. M., and due at Halifax at 9 a. m. Pullman-c:ao have i-ecently been introduced on this line. Stations. — St. John ; Moosepath, 3 M. ; Brookville, 5; Torryburn, 6 ; River- side, 7 ; Rothesay, 9 ; Quispamsis, 12 ; Nauwigewauk,17 ; Hampton, 22; Passekeag, 26; Bloomfield, 27; Norton, 33; Apohaqui, 39; Sussex, 44; Plumweseep, 47; Penobsquis, 51; Anagance, 60 ; Petitcodiac, 66; Pollet River, 71; Salisbury, 76; Boundary Creek, 79 ; Moncton, 89 : Humphrey. 91 ; Painsec Junction, 97 (Dorches- ter Road", 102 ; Shediac, 106 ; Point du Chene, 108) ; Meadow Brook, 101 ; Memram- cook, 108 ; Dorchester, 116: Sackville, 127; Aulac, 131; Amherst, 138 ; Nappan, 144; Maccan, 147: Athol, 151 ; Spring Hill, 156 : Salt Springs, 164; River Phihp, 167 ; Thompson, 174 ; Greenville. 181 : Wentworth, 187 ; PoUy Lake, 191 ; Loudon- derrv, 199; Debert, 204 ; Ishgonish, 208; Truro, 216; Johnson, 220: Brookfield, 224 ;" PoUv Bos, 229 : Stewiacke, 233 ; Shubenacadie, 238; Milford, 242; Elmsdale, 247; Enfi'eld, 249; Grand Lake, 254; Wellington, 256: Windsor Junction, 264; Rocky Lake, 266 ; Bedford, 269 ; roiu--Mile House, 273 ; HaUfax, 276. Fares from St. John. — To Sussex, 1st class, $ 1.32, — 2d class, 88c. ; to Moncton, 1st class, 3 2 67, — 2d class, $1.78 ; to Shediac, 1st class, S3, — 2d class, § 2 ; to Amherst, 1st class, S 3 78, —2d class, S 2.52 ; to Truro, 1st class, § 5.06, — 2d class, S 3.37 ; to Halifax, 1st class, 8 6, — 2d class, S 4. Fares from Halifax. — 1o Truro, 1st class, S 1.83, — 2d class, $1.22; to Pictou, 1st class; 8 3.15, —2d class, $ 2.10 ; to Amherst, 1st class, $ 3.78, — 2d class, $ 2.52 ; to Shediac, 1st class, $ 4.55, — 2d class, ;?o.03; to Sussex, 1st class, S 5.31, —2d class, $ 3.54 : to St. John, 1st class, S 6, — 2d class, S 4. _ Way-passengers can estimate their expenses easily on the basis of 3c. per mile for 1st class, and 2c. per mile for 2d class tickets, which is the tariff fixed by the Canadian Government for siU distances of less than 100 M. on its national rail- ways. On leaving the Valley station, in the city of St. John (see page 19), the train passes out into the ]Marsh Valley, which is ascended for several miles (see page 22). A short distance beyond Moosepath Park the line crosses Lawlor's Lal-e on an embankment which cost heavily, on account of the great depth to which the ballasting sunk. The Kennebecasis Bay is soon seen, on the 1., and is skirted for 5 M., passing the villas of Eothesay (see page 22), and giving pleasant views over the broad waters. Quispam- SUSSEX VALE. Route 16. 71 sis station is 3 M. S. of Gondola Point, whence a ferry crosses the Ken- nebecasis to the pretty hamlet of Clifton. The narrowing valley is now followed to the N. E., with occasional glimpses of the river on the 1. Hampton (two hotels) is the shire-town of Kings County, whose new pub- lic buildings are seen to the r. of the track. It is a thriving village of re- cent origin, and is visited in summer by the people of St. John, on account of the hill-scenery in the vicinity. St. Martin's, or QuacOj is about 20 M. S. E., on the Bay of Fundy, and is to be connected with Hampton by a new railway. (It is now visited by tri-weekly stage from St. John in 32 M., fare $ 1 50 ; a rugged road.) This is one of the chief ship- building towns in the province, and has over 1,000 inhabitants, with several churches and other public buildings. It was originally settled by the King's Orange Rangers, and has recently become a favorite point for summer excursions from St. John. The hotel accommodation is inferior. S. of the village is the tall lighthouse on Quaco Head, sustaining a revolving white light. The name Qitaco is a contraction of the Indian words Crulwahgahgee , meaning " the Home of the Sea-cow." The shores about Quaco are bold and picturesque, fronting the Bay with lofty iron-bound cliffs, among which are small strips of stony beaches. The strata are highly inclined and in some cases are strangely contorted, while their shelves and crevices are adorned with pine-trees. Quaco Head is 2 M. from St. Martin's, and is 350 ft. high, surrounded by cliffs of red sandstone 250 ft. in height. This bold promontory rises directly from the sea, and is crowned by forests. The harbor of Quaco is rather pretty, whence it has been likened to the Bay of Naples. Tracy'' s Lake is about 5 M. from Quaco, on the Loch Lomond road, and is noted for an abundance of trout. 10-12 M. N. of the village is the Mount Theobald Lake, a small round forest-pool in which trout are found in great numbers. Hampton station is 1 M. from the village of Hampton Ferry, and beyond Bloomfield the train reaches Norton, whence a road runs 7 M. N. W. to Springfield, at the head of Belleisle Bay. Apohaqui (Apohaqui Hotel) is a village of 300 inhabitants, on the upper Kennebecasis, and at the mouth of the Mill-stream Valley. The train now reaches Sussex {Exchange Hotel), a pleasant little vil- lage of 400 inhabitants, whence the famous farm-lands of the Sussex Vale stretch off to the S. E. along the course of Trout Brook. There are sev- eral hamlets (with inns) amid the pleasant rural scenery of the Vale, and good trout-fishing is found on the smaller streams. 8 M. up is the pros- perous settlement of Seeley's Mills, with 650 inhabitants. The Sussex Yale was settled by the military corps of the New Jersey Loyalists (most of whom were Germans), soon after the Revolutionary War, and it is now occupied, for the most part, by their descendants. "Good roads, well-executed bridges, cleared land, excellent crops, comfortable houses, high-bred cattle and horses, good conveyances pubUc and private, commodious churches, weU-taught schools, well-provided inns, and an intelligent, industrious people, aU in the midst; of scenery lofty, soft, rounded, beautifully varied with hill and valley, mountain and meadow, forest and flood, have taken the place of the pathless wilderness, the endless trees, the untaught Indian, and the savage moose." (Prof. Johnston.) Beyond Plumweseep occasional glimpses of the long low ridge of Picca- dilly Mt. are obtained on the r., and Mt. Pisgah is just N. of Penobsquis station (small inn), which is the seat of the New Brunswick Paper Manu- facturing Co. and of several salt-works. Tri-weekly stages run hence 32 M. S. E. to the maritime village of Salmon River, on Chignecto Bay, 4 M. N. W. of the obscure shipping-port oi Point Wolfe (Stevens's Hotel). 72 Route 16. MONCTON. Petitcodiac {Mansard House; Central Hotel) is 15 M. beyond Penob- squis, and is a busy village of 400 inhabitants, many of whom are con- nected with the lumber-trade. 5 M. S. E. is the Pollett River village, near which there is good trouting. In this vicinity are the Pollett Falls, where the river, after flowing through a narrow defile between lofty and rugged hills, falls over a line of sandstone ledges, and then whirls away down a dark gorge below. The caverns, crags, and eroded fronts of the sand- stone cliffs form picturesque bits of scenery. 15-18 M. N. of Petitcodiac are the famous fishing-grounds of the Canaan River. The railway now descends the valley of the Petitcodiac Elver, which was settled after the Eevolutionary War by Germans from Pennsylvania who remained loyal to Great Britain. Salisbury (two inns) is a pleasant village of 300 inhabitants. Stages run from Salisbury, or Moncton, to Hillsborougli (two hotels), a busy- village of 900 inhabitants, whence are shipped the abundant products of the mines of Albert County. The Albert Coal-mines are connected with Hillsborough by a railway bh M. long, and produce large quantities of valuable bituminous coal, much, of which^is sent by sea to Portland and Boston. 2\ M. from the village are exten- sive plaster-quarries, whose products are shipped to the American ports. S. E. of Hillsborough, down the Petitcodiac River, are the villages of the parish of Hopewell, of which Hopewell Cape is the capital of the county. W. of Hopewell Corner is Harvey Corner, whence a pleasant road leads to Rocher. To the S. are the Shepody Lakes and River, beyond which (and 8 M. from Harvey Corner) is Little Rocher, near Cape Enrage on Chignecto Bay (with a fixed light, visible for 15 M.). Off these bold shores are the Albert Quarries and the rocky cliffs of Grindstone Island. The mines and villages of Albert County are being joined with the Intercolonial Rail- way system by a line called the Albert Railway, which intersects the former road and runs down through the lower parishes, meeting with fine scenery in its passage between Shepody Mt. (1,050 ft. high) and the Bay. Beyond Salisbury station the Halifax train runs 13 M. N. E. to Moncton (King''s Hotel), the headquarters of the Intercolonial Eailway and the site of its extensive machine-shops. It is well laid out, and has 4 churches, a weekly paper, and some manufacturing works. Its situation at the head of navigation on the Petitcodiac gives certain commercial advantages, and afibrds opportunity for the visitor to see the great " Bore," or tide-wave, of the Bay of Fundy. At the beginning of the flood-tide a wall of water 4-6 ft. high sweeps up the river, and within 6 hours the stream rises over 70 ft. On account of the sharp curve in the river at this point, Moncton was known only as "the Bend" for over a century, when it was named in honor of an early English officer of the Acadian Avars. This bend also gave rise to the name of the river, which was hence called by the French Petit Coude (" Little Elbow"). The new division of the Intercolonial Railway runs N. from Moncton, and is designed to meet the Canadian railway system at Riviere du Loup. It passes through or near the chief towns of the North Shore, and follows the Bayof Chal- eur for many miles. A considerable portion of the line will probably be open to travel in the summer of 1875, but the officers of the road cannot yet give precise information. The towns on this hne are described in Route 15. The Halifax train runs out to the N. E. from Moncton, and after passing Painsec Junction (see page 59) deflects to the S. E. into the Memramcook SACKVILLE. Route 16. 73 Valley. It soon reaches the connected villages of Memramcook and St. Joseph (three inns), occupying the centre of a prosperous farming district which is inhabited by over 1,000 Acadians, — a pious and simple-hearted Catholic peasantry, — a large portion of whom belong to the prolific fami- lies of Leblanc, Cormier, Gaudet, and Bouque. On the opposite shore is the College of St. Joseph de Memramcook, where about 100 students (mostly from Canada and the United States) are conducted through a high-school curriculum by 12 friars and ecclesiastics. Near the college is the handsome stone building of the Church of St. Joseph de Memram- cook. The scenery is of a bold character as the train descends the r. bank of the Memramcook Elver, and crosses to Dorchester {Dorchester Hotel), a prosperous village of 800 inhabitants, situated near the mouth of the river and among the finest wheat-lands in New Brunswick. In this vicinity (and at EocJcland, 4 M. W.) are large quarries of olive-colored sandstone, most of which is sent to Boston and New York. Dorchester has 3 churches, the public buildings of Westmoreland County, and numerous pleasant residences. Shipbuilding is carried on to some extent. A ferry crosses Shepody Bay to Hopewell Cape (see page 72) ; and 6-8 M. "W. of Dorchester is Belliveau village, nine tenths of whose inhabitants belong to the fami- lies of Belhveau, Gautreault, and Melan^on. This settlement was named in honor of the venerable M. Belliveau, whose long life extended from 1730 to 1840. In 1776 many of the Acadians of this vicinity joined the New England forces under Col. Eddy, who occupied Sackville and attacked Fort Cumberland (see page 78). The train now runs E. 12 M. from Dorchester to Sackville {Brunsioick House), a rising and prosperous village of about 1,500 inhabitants, situated on a red sandstone slope at the mouth of the Tantramar i Eiver, near the head of the Bay of Fundy. It has ship-yards, a stove foundry, a news- paper, and 8 churches. Sackville is the seat of the Mount Allison Wes- leyan College, an institution which was founded by Mr. C. F. Allison, and is conducted by the Wesleyan Conference of Eastern British America. It includes a small college, a theological hall, and academies for boys and girls. A road leads from Sackville S. E. down the nagged headland be- tween Cumberland Basin and Shepody Bay, passing the marine hamlets of Woodpoint (5 M.), Eockport (12 M.), and N. Joggins, 14 M. from Sack- ville, and near the highlands of Cape Marangouin. Sackville is the point established for the outlet of the projected Bale Terte Canal, a useful work 18 M. long, which would allow vessels to pass from the Bay of Fundy to the Gulf of St. Lawrence without having to round the iron-bound pe- ninsula of Nova Scotia. This canal has been planned and desired for over a cen- tury, but nothing has yet been done, except the surveying of the isthmus. Tri- weekly stages run N. E. along the telegraph-road from Sackville to Jolicoeur (10 M ), Bale Verte Road (14 M.), Bale A^erte (18 M., small inn), and Port Elgin (20 M. • inn). About 16 M. N. E. of Port Elgin is Cape Tormentine, " the great headland which forms the E. extremity of New Brunswick within the Gulf Indian Point may be said to form the southern, and Cape Jourimain the northern points of this \ieadland, which is a place of importance in a nautical point of view, not only from 1 Tantramar, from the French word Tintamarre, meaning " a thundering noise." 4 7-1: HouUlC. TAXTRAMAK MAESH. 1 its position, but frvaw its dan^^roii? aiiil oxtor.sivo shivils," The sulvmarine tftau Kivers, and at the mouth of the latter are tho ancient ruins of Fort Monoton. At SaokA-ille the Halifax train crosses the Tantrani:ir River, nxid runs out over the wide Tantramar Marsh to Aulao, or Cole's Ishuid (stas^' to Cape Tormeiitine\ near wliioh ir oivsses the Aulao Kiver. Trains ar« sometimes blocked in ou these plains during the snow-storms of winter, and tlie passeu£^>rs arv^ subjected to great hardships. The Missiguash El vex is next crossed, with the niius of Fort Beausejour (Cnmberhmd) ou the X., and of Fort Beanbassin (Lawrence) ou the S. These forts are best visited from Amherst, Avhich is 4-5 M. distant, and is reached alter trav- ersing the J/kW<7MasA Jdatsh. The Missiguash Kiver is the boundary between New Bnmswick and Xova Scotia, and Amlierst is the first town reached in the latter Province. Amherst to Halifax, see Route 17. IfOYA SCOTIA. The Province of Nova Scotia is peninsular in location, and is connected with the mainland by an isthmus 8 M. wide. It is bounded on the N. by the Bay of Fundy, the Strait of Northumberland, and the Gulf of St. Law- rence; on the E. and S. by the Atlantic Ocean; and on the W. by the ocean, the Bay of Fundy, and the Province of New Brunswick. Its length, fi'om Cape Canso to Cape St. Mary, is 383 M., and its breadth varies from 60 M. to 104 M. The area of the peninsular portion of the Province is about 16,000 square miles. (The island of Cape Breton is connected with this Province, politically, but its description is reserved for another sec- tion of this book.) *' Acadie is much warmer in summer and much colder in winter than the countries in Europe lying under the same parallels of latitude" (Southern France, Sardinia, Lombard}^, Genoa, Venice, Northern Tur- key, the Crimea, and Circassia). "The spring season is colder and the autumn more agreeable than those on the opposite side of the Atlantic. Its climate is favorable to agriculture, its soil generally fertile. The land is well watered by rivers, brooks, and lakes. The supply of timber for use and for exportation may be considered as inexhaustible. The fish- eries on the coasts are abundant. The harbors are numerous and excel- lent. Wild animals are abundant, among which are remarkable the moose, caribou, and red deer. Wild fowl also are plenty. Extensive tracts of alluvial land of great value are found on the Bay of Fundy. These lands have a natural richness that dispenses with all manuring; all that is wanted to keep them in order is spade-work. As to cereals, — wheat, rye, oats, buckwheat, maize, all prosper. The potato, the hop, flax, and hemp are everywhere prolific. The vegetables of the kitchen garden are successfully raised. Of fruit there are many wild kinds, and the apple, pear, plum, and cherry seem almost indigenous. The vine thrives ; good grapes are often raised in the open air. It was said by a French writer that Acadie produced readily everything that grew in Old France, except the olive. "In the peninsula, or Acadie- proper, there is an abundance of mineral wealth. Coal is found in Cumberland and Pictou ; iron ore, in Colchester and Annapolis Counties ; gypsum, in Hants ; marble and limestone, in dif- ferent localities; freestone, for building, at Eemsheg (Port Wallace) and 76 NOVA SCOTIA. Pictou; granite, near Halifax, Shelburne, etc.; brick clay, in the counties of Halifax and Annapolis. The amethysts of Parrsborough and its vicin- ity have been long celebrated, and pearls have been found lately in the Annapolis Eiver. The discovery of gold along the whole Atlantic shore of the peninsula of Nova Scotia has taken place since 1860, and it now gives steady remunerative employment to about 800 or 1,000 laborers, with every expectation of its expansion." (Beamish Murdoch.) The pro- duction of gold from the Nova-Scotia mines now amounts to about $ 400,000 a year. In 1873 the Nova-Scotians caught $6,577,086 worth of fish, of which $2,531,159 worth were of codfish, $1,411,676 of mackerel, $717,861 of herring, and $ 865,574 of lobsters. The territory now occupied by the Maritime Provinces was known for nearly two centuries by the name of Acadie^'^ and was the scene of fre- quent wars between Britain and France, Its first discoverers were the Northmen, about the year 1000 A. d., and Sebastian Cabot rediscovered it in 1498. In 1518 and 1598 futile attempts were made by French nobles to found colonies here, and French fishermen, fur-traders, and explorers frequented these shores for over a century. In 1605 a settlement was founded at Port Eoyal, after the discoveries of De Monts and Champlain, but it was broken up in 1618 by the Virginians, who claimed that Acadie belonged to Britain by virtue of Cabot's discovery. In 1621 James I. of England granted to Sir William Alexander the domain called NovA Scotia, including all the lands E. of a line drawn from Passamoquoddy Bay N. to the St. Lawrence ; but this claim was renounced in 1632, and the rival French nobles. La Tour and D' Aulnay, commenced their fratri- cidal wars, each striving to be sole lord of Acadie. In 1654 the Province was captured by a force sent out by Cromwell, but the French interest soon regained its former position. The order of the Baronets of Nova Scotia was founded by King Charles I., in 1625, and consisted of 150 well-born gentlemen of Scotland, who re- ceived, with their titles and insignia, grants of 18 square miles each, in the wide domains of Acadia. These manors were to be settled by the baronets at their own expense, and were expected in time to yield handsome revenues. But little was ever accomplished by this order. Meantime Cardinal Richelieu founded and became grand master of a more powerful French association called the Company of New France (1627). It con- 1 Acadia is the Anglicized (or Latinized) form of Acadie, an Indian -word signifying " the place," or " the region." It is a part of the compound words Segeebeji-acaaie (Hhu- benacadie), meaning " place of wild potatoes "; TuHuk-cadie (Tracadie), meaning " dwelling- place " ; Sun-acadie, or "place of cranberries"; Kitpoo-acadie, or "place of eagles," and others of similar form. The Milicete tribes pronounced this word " Quoddy," whence restumoo-quoddy (Passamoquoddy), meaning "place of pollocks ' ; JS'oodi-quoddy, or " place of seals," etc. When a British officer was descending the Shubenacadie with a Mic- mac guide, he inquired how the name originated ; the Indian answered, "Because plenty wild potatoes — scgeeben — once grew here.'' " Well, ' acadie,' Paul, what does that mean ? " " Means — where you find 'em," rejoined the Micmac. NOVA SCOTIA. 77 sisted of 100 members, who received Acadia, Quebec, Florida, and New- foundland " in simple homage," and had power to erect duchies, marquis- ates, and seigniories, subject to the royal approval. They allowed French Catholics only to settle on these lands, and were protected by national frigates. This order continued for 40 years, and was instrumental in founding numerous villages along the Nova-Scotian coast. In 1690 the New-Englanders overran the Province and seized the for- tresses, but it was restored to France in 1697. In 1703 and 1707 unsuc- cessful expeditions were sent from Massachusetts against the Acadian strongholds, but they were finally captured in 1710 ; and in 1713 Nova Scotia was ceded to Great Britain by the Treaty of Utrecht. The Prov- ince was kept in a condition of disorder for the next 40 years, by the dis- affection of its French population and the lawlessness of the Indians, and the British fortresses were often menaced and attacked. After the founda- tion of Halifax, in 1749, a slow tide of Immigration set in and sti'engthened the government. In 1755 the French people in the Province (7,000 in num- ber) were suddenly seized and transported to the remote American colo- nies, and the French forts on the Baie-Verte frontier were captured. In 1758 the first House of Assembly met at Halifax, and in 1763 the French power in America was finally and totally crushed. At the close of the Eevolution, 20,000 self-exiled Americans settled in Nova Scotia; and in 1784 New Brunswick and Cape Bi'eton were withdrawn and made into separate provinces (Cape Breton was reunited to Nova Scotia in 1820). During the Eevolution and the War of 1812 Halifax was the chief station of the British navy, and the shores of the Province were continually harassed by American privateers. In 1864 a convention was held at Charlottetown, P. E. L, to consider measures for forming a federal imion of the Maritime Provinces. During the session Canadian delegates were admitted, on the request of the St. Lawrence Provinces ; and a subsequent congress of all the Provinces was held at Quebec, at which the plan of the Dominion of Canada was elabo- rated. It is now thought that this quasi-national government does not fulfil all the original wishes of the seaboard regions, and that it may be well to unite (or reunite) the Maritime Provinces into one powerful province called Acadia, by which the expense of three local legislatures and cabi- nets could be saved, their homogeneous commercial interests could be favored by uniform laws, and the populotis and wealthy Provinces of Que- bec and Ontario could be balanced in the Dominion Parliament. " There are perhaps no Provinces in the world possessing finer harbors, or furnishing in greater abundance all the conveniences of life. The climate is quite mild and very healthy, and no lands have been found that are not of surpassing fertility Finally, nowhere are there to be seen forests more beautiful or with wood better fitted for buildings and masts. There 78 Route 17, AMHERST. are in some places copper mines, and in others of coal The fish most commonly canght on the coast are the cod, salmon, mackerel, herring, sardine, shad, tront, gotte, gaparot, barbel, sturgeon, goberge, — all fish that can be salted and exported. Seals, walruses, and Avhales are found in great numbers The rivers, too, are full of fresh-water fish, and the banks teem with countless game." (Father Charlevoix, 1765.) "Hei'ewith I enter the lists as the champion of Xova Scotia "Were I to give a fii-st-class certificate of its general character, I would aflirm that it yields a gi'eater variety' of products for export than any ten-itory on the globe of the same superficial area. This is saying a gi-eat deal. Let lis see : she has ice, lumber, ships, salt-fish, salmon and lobsters, coal, iron, gold, copper, plaster, slate, grindstones, fat cattle, wool, potatoes, apples, large game, and furs." (Charles Hallock, 1S73.) 17. St. John to Amherst and Halifax. St. John to Amherst, see preceding route. Amherst {Acadia Hotel ; Amherst Hotel) is a flourishing town midway between St. John and Halifax (138 M. from each). It is the capital of Cumberland County, Nova Scotia, and is pleasantly situated at the head of the Cumberland Basin, one of the great arms of the Bay of Fundy. It has 3,606 inhabitants, and is engaged in the lumber trade; while the im- mense area of fertile meadows about the town furnishes profitable employ- ment for a large rural population. Bi-weekly stages run N. E. up the valley of the La Planche to Tldnish (two inns), a village of 300 inhabitants on Baie Yei'te. Tri-weekly stages run N. E. to Shinimicas and the large farming district called the Head of Amherst, which has over 2,000 in- habitants. The present domain of Xova Scotia was ceded to Great Britain by the Treaty of XJtrecht, in 1713, hut its boundaries were not defined, and the French determined to limit it on the X. to the Missignash River. To this end Got. La Jonquit^re sent M. La Come, with 600 soldiers, to erect forts on the hne of the Missiguash. The war- rior-priest, the Abbe Laloutre (Ticar-General of Acadie~), led many Acadians to this vicinity, where the flourishing settlement of Bcaiibassin was founded. At the same time La Corne established a chain of military posts from the Bay of Fundy to Baie Verte, the chief fort being located on the present site of Fort Cumberland, and bear- ing the name of Ecausejour. The gorei-nor of Xova Scotia sent out a British force under Major Lawi-ence, who captured and destroyed Beanbassin, and erected Fort Lawrence near its site. The Acadians were industriously laboring in the peaceful pursuits of agi-iculture about Beausejour; and the King of France had granted 80,000 livres for the great aboideau across the Aulac River. The British complained, however, that the priests were endeavoring to array the Acadians against them, and to entice them away from the Xova-Scotian shores. It was resolved that the Fx-ench forces should be driven froni their position, and a powerful expedition was fitted out at Boston. Thi-ee frigates and a number of ti-ansports conveying the Xew- England levies sailed up the Bay of Fundy in May, 1755, and debarked a strong FOET CUMBERLAND. Route 17. 79 land force afFort Lawrence. Meantime 1,200-1,500 Acadians had been gathered about Beausejour, by the influence of the Abbe Laloutre, and a sharp skirmish was fought on L'Isle de la VaUiere. On the 4th of June the Anglo-American forces left their camps on the glacis of Fort Lawrence, routed the Acadians at the fords of the Missiguash, and advanced by parallels and siege-lines against the hostile works. When the British batteries reached Butte-a-Charles the fort was Tigorously shelled, and with such disastrous effect that it capitulated on June 16th, the garrison march- ing out with arms, baggage, and banners. The French troops were paroled and sent to Louisbourg, and the Acadians were suffered to remain. Laloutre, escaping to Quebec, there received an ecclesiastical censure, and was afterwards remanded to France. In November, 1776, Col. Eddy led a force of Massachusetts troops, men of Mau- gerviUe, Acadians, and Indians, against Fort Cumberland. He first cut out a store- vessel from under the guns of the fort, and captured several detachments of the gar- rison (the Royal Fencibles). The commandant refused to surrender, and repulsed the Americans in a night-attack, by means of a furious cannonade. Eddy then blockaded the fort for several days, but was finally driven off by the arrival of a man-of-war from Halifax, bringing a reinforcement of 400 men. The Massachusetts camp was broken up by a sortie, and all its stores were destroyed. The Americans fled to the forest, and fell back on the St. John River. A large proportion of the men of Cumberland County went to Maine after this campaign, despairing of the success of Republicanism in the Maritime Provinces. Among them were a consid- erable number of Acadians. The ruins of Fort Cumberland are a few miles N. W. of Amherst, beyond the Aulac River, and on a high bluff at the S. end of the Point de Bute range of hills. It was kept in repair by the Imperial Government for many years after its capture, and still presents an appearance of strength and solidity, though it has been long deserted. The remains of the besiegers' parallels are also visible near the works. On a bold bluff within cannon-shot, on the farther bank of the Missiguash River, are the scanty remains of the British Fort Lawrence. Numerous rehcs of the old Acadians may still be traced in this vicinity. 5 M. above the fort, on the Bale Verte road, is Bloody Bridge, where a British foraging party under Col. Dixon was sur- prised and massacred by the Indians (under French officers). The * view from the bastions of Fort Cumberland is famous for its extent and beauty. It includes Sackville and its colleges on the N. W., Amherst and the Nova-Scotian shores on the S. E., and the bluff and hamlet of Fort Lawrence. The wide and blooming expanse of the Tantramar and Missiguash Marshes is over- looked, — the view including over 50,000 acres of rich marine intervale, — and on the S. the eye travels for many leagues down the blue sheet of the Bay of Fundy (Cumberland Basin). The great Tantramar Marsh, is S. of Sackville, and is 9 M. long by 4 M. wide, being also traversed by the Tantramar and Aulac Rivers. It is composed of fine siUcious matter deposited as marine alluvium, and is called "red marsh," in dis- tinction from the " blue marsh " of the uplands. The low shores around the head of the Bay of Fundy for a distance of 20 M. have been reclaimed by the erection of dikes, with aboideaux at the mouths of the rivers to exclude the flow of the tides. The land thus gained is very rich, and produces fine crops of English hay, averag- ing from 1% to 2 tons to the acre. The land seems inexhaustible, having been cul- tivated now for nearly a century without rotation or fertilization. The Chignecto Peninsula. Minudie is 8 M. S. W. of Amherst, with which it is connected by a ferry across the estuaries of the Maccan and Hebert Rivers. It has 600 inhabitants, and is near the rich meadows called the Elysian Fields. In the vicinity are profitable quarries of grindstones, and there are shad-fisheries to the S. AV. 6-8 M. S. are the Joggins Mines, pertaining to the General Mining Association of London ; and the Victoria Mines, on the river Hebert. Coal has been obtained thence for 25 years. This dis- trict is reached by stages from Maccan station. About the year 1730 the coal-mines at Chignecto were leased to a Boston company, which was to pay a quit-rent of one penny an acre (on 4,000 acres), and a royalty of 18 pence per chaldron on the coal raised. But this enterprise was broken up in 1732. when the warehouses and ma- chinery were destroyed by the Indians (probably incited by the French at Louis- bourg). so i::ut< r. COBEQUID MTS. The Jo§:^«si Slioro oxtonds to tho S. W. aloiisr tho Ohismeoto Chaunel. and is n?markiiblo Vi.>r it;s gtvlogioal poouliarities. vrhioh hsvo beT>n visiUHi and studied by E\iropeaa savsns. The local oxplanstion of tho name is that the cliffs here *' jc>^ in '* juiJ on: in an imexampUxl iiianuer. Tho height of the oliflfe is from 130 to 400 ft. ; and the width of the Ohijrnccto Ba.kius: the Chignecto Channel and the Nevr-Brunsvrick shores. There is a fixevl vrhito light on its outer point. To the E. . Apple Kirer traverses the Caribou Plains, and on its upper waters afR>ri.ls the K\m Amherst to l^JTrsN^ro" is tedious and uninteresting. In places it is made so straight that you can see several miles of it Wfore you. which pr^xiutvs an appearance of interminable length, while the stimtovl growth of the spruce and birch trees bespeaks a cold, thiti soil, and invests the scene with a melancholy and sterile jispect." ^^.1^DGK H.ujBrRTOX.> This road is Si> M. long, ascending the val- ley of the Maccaa River, and passing the hamlet of Cauuan, near the Cobequid Mts. The Halimx traiu nins S. from Amherst to Jfaccan (stages to Miuudie andJoggius), in the great coal-tield of Cumberland County. Daily stages run from Athoi station to Parrsboro*. From Athol the line passes to Sprinp HUl, a ooal-mining district, whence a railway is being constructed to Parrsboro' <,see Koute 21^. 11 M. beyond is tlie station at JiU'ir Philij) (small hotel), a pleasant stream in which goovl fishing is found. The salmon are espe- cially abundant during the springtime. Oxfoni station (two inns^ has two small woollen factories, and is 14 M. S. W. of Pugwash, on the Xorthumber- land Strait, The train now passes through extensive forests, in which many sup\r- maples are seen, aiid begins the ascent of the Cobequid Mts., with the W:illace Valley below on the 1. The Cobequid nxngo runs almost due E. and W. from Truro, and is 100 M. long, with an aver:\ge breadth of 10 - 12 M. It consists of a sticcession of rounded hills, SOO - 1,000 feet high, cov- ered with tall and luxitriant forests of beech and sugar-maple. From Thomson, Greenville, and Wentworth stations stages run to Wallace and Pugwash (see page Sl>. tUso to "Westchester. The railway traverses the hill-country by the FoUi/ Pass, and has its heavies^t grades between FoUy Lake and Londonderry : where are also 2 - S M. of snoAv-sheds, to protect the deep ciittings from the drit\ing in of snow from the hills. Fine views of the Wallace Valley are afforded from the open levels of the line. Faim Lotidondcrry a bianch-railway runs to the Londonderry Iron-mines, which have been worked for nearly 40 years. The ores are magnetic, specular, and hematite, and occur in a wedge-shaped vein 7 M. long and 120 ft. thick. The iron is of fine quality, but is difticult to work. The tr;iin descends from the Pass along the line of the Folly River, which it crosses on a bridge 200 feet above the w-ater. Beyond the farming set- tlement of Dthirt (stages to Economy and Five Islands') tlie descent is con- tinued, and occasional views of the Cobequid Bay are given as the train passes across OusIoav to Truro. The landscape now becomes more pleas- ing and thickly settled. TRURO. Route 17. 81 Truro {Somerset ITouse; Pr-ince of Wales JTofel; Victoria) is a wealthy and prosperous town of over 4,000 inhabitants, and occupies a pleasant situation 2 M. from the head of Cobequid Bay (an arm of the Basin of Minas). The level site of the town is nearh^ surrounded by an amphi- theatre of gracefully rounded hills, and on the W. are the old diked meadows of the Acadian era. Truro is the capital of Colchester County and the seat of the Provincial Normal School. Fishing and shipbuilding are carried on here, and there are large and growing manufactures, in- cluding boots and shoes, Avoollens, and iron-wares. The neighboring county has valuable farming-lands, and contains several iron-mines. Truro was settled at an early date by the Acadian French, and after their expul- sion from Nova Scotia was occui>ied by Scotch-Irish from New Hampshire. In 1761 a large number of disbanded Irish troops settled here, and engaged in the peaceful pursuits of agriculture. A road runs W. from Truro between the Cobequid Mts. and the Basin of Minas, passing Masstown (10 M.) ; Folly Village (14 M.), at the mouth of the Folly River; Great Village (18 M.), a place of (300 inhabitants ; Highland Village (21 M.) ; Port au Pique (23 M.) ; Bass River (27 M.); Upper Economy (28 M.) ; and Five Islands (45 M.). (See Route 22.) The stages run from Debert station. Stages also run S. W. to Old Barns, on the S. shore of Cobequid Bay, and S. E. 15 M. to Middle Stewiacke, on the Stewiacke River. Truro is the point of departure for the Pictou Branch of the Intercolonial Rail- way (see Route 31). The North Shore of Nova Scotia. Blair's express-stages leave Truro on the arrival of the morning trains from Hali- fax, on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, returning on the alternate days. Truro to Tatamagouche, 29 M. ; to Wallace, 42; to Pugwash, 52. Stages also run from Wentworth, Greenville, and Thomson to the N. Shore (according to the Intercolonial Railway circular for 1874) , and a tri- weekly line runs between Pictou and Amherst by way of the N. shore. In passing from Truro to Tatamagouche the road crosses the Cobequid Mts. and descends through a thinly settled region to the N. Tatamagouche (two inns) is situated at the head of a large harbor which opens on the Northumberland Strait, and has about 1,500 inhabitants. Some ship- building is done here, and there are freestone quarries in the vicinity. 6 M. to the E. is the large village of Brule Harhor, and 6 M. farther E., also on the Tatamagouche Bay, and at the mouth of the River John, is tlie shipbuilding settlement of River John, which was founded by Swiss Protestants in 1763. It is 20 M. from this point to Pictou, and the inter- vening coast is occupied by colonists from the Hebrides. Blair's stage runs W. from Tatamagouche to Wallace (two inns), a town of 2,600 inhabitants, situated on the deep waters of Wallace Harbor (for- merly called Remsheg). Plaster, lime, and freestone are found here in large quantities, and the latter is being quarried by several companies. The Provincial Building at Halifax was made of Wallace stone. To the N. E., beyond the lighthouse on Mullin Point, is the marine hamlet oi Fox Harbor, whose original settlers came from the Hebrides. Pugwash (small inn) is 10 M. beyond Wallace, and is a flourishing port with about 3,300 4* p 82 Rcmteir. GOLD MINES. inhabitants. The harbor, though difficult of access, is deep and well shel- tered, and has several ship-yards on its shores. The chief exports of Pug- wash are deals and lumber, freestone, lime, and plaster. The Halifax train runs S. from Truro to Broohfteld, -whence hay and liimber are exported, and then to StetoiacJce, Avhich is 3 M. from the pretty farming village of the same name, on the Stewiacke Eiver. The next sta- tion is Shubenacadie (International Hotel), a busy little manufacturing village on the river of the same name. Daily stages descend the valley of the Shubenacadie for 18 M. to the N. to the town of Maitland (two inns), at the mouth of the river (see Route 22). Stages also run S. E. (Tuesday and Thursday) to Gay's River (7 M.), Gay's River Road (14 M ), Middle Musquodoboit (21 M.), Upper Musquodoboit (25 M.), Melrose, Guysborough, and Port Mulgrave, on the Strait of Canso. Gold was discovered near Gay's River in 1862, in the conglomerate rock of the great ridge called the Boar's Back, which extends for 60 M. through the inland towns. It nearly resembles the alluvial de- posits found in the placer-diggings of Cahfornia, and the stream-washings have yielded as high as an ounce per man daily. Scientific mining was begun in 1863, but has given only light returns. Middle Musquodoboit is a farming-town with about 1,000 inhabitants, situated on the S. of the Boar's Back ridge, 42 M. from Halifax. Upper Musquodoboit is about the same size, and beyond that point the stages traverse a dreary and thinly settled district for several leagues, to Melrose. The Halifax train runs S. W. to Elmsdale, a village near the Shuben- acadie Eiver, engaged in making leather and can-iages. Enfield is the seat of a large pottery. 7 M. N. W. are the Renfrew Gold-Mines, where gold-bearing quartz was discovered in 1861. Much money and labor were at first wasted by inexperienced miners, but of late years the lodes have been worked systematically, and are considered among the most valuable in Nova Scotia. The average yield is 16 pennyweights of gold to a ton of quartz, and in 1869 these mines yielded 3,097 ounces of the precious metal, valued at $ 61,490. The Oldham Mines are 3J M. S. of Enfield, and are in a deep narrow valley, along whose bottom shafts have been sunk to reach the auriferous quartz. Between 1861 and 1869, 9,254 ounces of gold were sent from the Oldham diggings, and it is thought that yet richer lodes may be found at a greater depth. Soon after leaving Enfield the train passes along the S. E. shore of Grand Lake, which is 8 M. long by 1-2 M. wide. It crosses the outlet stream, runs around Long Lake, and intersects the Windsor Branch Kailway at Windsor J^mction. Station, Eocl:y Lake, on the lake of the same name, where large quantities of ice are cut by the Nova-Scotia Ice Company, for exportation to the United States. 3 M. N. E. of this station are the Waver- ley Gold-Mines, where the gold is found in ban-el-quartz, so named because it appears in cylindrical masses like barrels laid side by side, or like a corduroy-road. At its first discovery all the floating population of Halifax flocked out here, but they failed to better their condition, and the total yield between 1861 and 1869 was only about 1,600 ounces. Waverley vil- lage is pictm-esquely situated in a narrow valley between two lakes, and has about 600 inhabitants. ANNAPOLIS ROUTE. Route IS. 83 After crossing Eocky Lake the train soon reaches the shores of the beautiful Bedford Basin, and foUows their graceful curves for several miles. On the 1. are fine views of the villas and hiUs beyond the blue water. Halifax, see page 93. 18. St. John to Halifax, by the Annapolis Valley. This is the pleasantest route, during calm weather, between the chief cities of the Slantime Provinces. After a passage of about 5 hours in the steamer, across the Bay ot iund}^, the pretty scenery of the AnnapoUs Basin is traversed, and at Annapolis the passenger takes the train of the VFindsor & AnnapolL. Railway, which runs tnrough to Hahfax. The hne traverses a comparatively rich and picturesque coun- try, aboundmg m historic and poetic associations of the deepest interest The distance between St. John and Halifax by this route is 86 M. less than by the Intercolomal Railway ; but the time on both routes is about the same on account of the delay in crossing the Bay of Fundy. The Annapolis-Halifax line is only prac- ticable 4 times a week. The steamer leaves St. John at 8 a. m. , on Monday, Wednes- day, j^riday, and Saturday, connecting with the express trains which leave Annapolis at z p. M. and arrive at Halifax at about 8 p. m. Express,trains leave Halifax at 8 15 a M on Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, and Saturday, connecting with the steamer which leaves Annapohs at 2.33 p. m. and arrives at St. John at 8 p. m. (Time-table of 1874 \ f. A ^•"T-^^.i.o'^^S *° Halifax, 1st class, $5; 2d class, S3.50; to Digby, $150; to Annapohs S 2 Passengers for Halifax dine on the steamer and take te^ kt Kent! I' !rV'"?"*ml' *^°^'^ ^°'' ^*- •^^^^ '^^ ^* KentviUe (18 minutes) and take tea on the boat. There are two through trains each way daily between Halifax and Annapolis. Special rates are made for excursions (Umited tune) by the agents of thisroute. Small & Hathaway, 39 Dock St., St. John s » "^ .'^^^tf'^^^^'-^^-^^^J^^o-DighyA^^l.- AnnapoUs, 61; Round Hill, 68 ; Bridge- Sr A'f'^i ^^^^^'^r^a^.'^' fa^encetown, 83; Middleton, 89; Wilmot, 92 ; Kingston, lli Onlth'^.n ^^^\^^W'^^^•f?''^'^^ WaterviUe, ill; Cambridge pS'iqn w °^ ^T^' .^^""^'o^ P' ^°^^ Williams, 125; Wolfville, 127; Grand f^' F^^^S/h'^i'"'^^^,' ^'^^'.^^^^f^'*' ^^'^5 Hantsport, 138; Mount Benson, hm/JlS*^ i^i,^^?' ^^ed\o^> 145 ;Three-Mile Plains, 148; Newport, 151 ; Ellers' r-'^"*®'!?*! S*^'li^ater,15v; Mount Uniacke, 164 ; Beaver Bank, 174; Windsor Junc- tion, In ; Rocky Lake, 179 ; Bedford, 182 ; Four-Mile House, 186 ; HaliStx, 190 The steamer Empress leaves her wharf at Eeed's Point, St. John, and soon passes the heights and spires of Carleton on the r. and the lighthouse on Partridge Island on the 1., beyond which Mispeck Point is seen. Cape Spencer is then opened to the E., on the New Brunswick coast, and the steamer sweeps out into the open bay. Travellers who are subject to sea- sickness would do well to avoid this passage during or immediately after a breeze from the N. E. or S. W., or durmg a gale from any direction. At such times very rough water is found on the bay. It will be remembered that the ocean-steamships Pactolus and Connaught were lost in these waters. But in ordinary summer weather the bay is quiet, except for a light tidal swell, and wiU not affect the traveller whose mind is properly fixed on something outside of himself. Soon after passing Partridge Island, the dark ridge of the North Mt is seen in advance, cleft by the gap called the * Digby Gut, which in the earlier days, was known as St. George's Channel. The course' is laid straight for this pass, and the steamer runs in hj Prim Point, with its fog- whistle and fixed light (visible 13 M.), and enters the tide-swept defile 84 Route IS. ANNAPOLIS BASIN. ■with bold and mountainous bluffs rising on either side. The shores on the 1. are 610 ft. high, and on the r. 400-560 ft., between which the tide rushes -with a velocity of 5 knots an hour, making broad and powerful swirls and eddies over 12 - 25 fathoms of water. Aftier running for about 2 M. through this passage, the steamer enters the Annapolis Basin, and runs S. by E. 3 M. to Digby. " The white houses of Digby, scattered over the downs like a flock of washed sheep, had a somewhat chilly aspect, it is true, and made us long for the sun on them. But as I think of it now, I prefer to have the town and the pretty hillsides that stand about the basia in the light we saw them : and especially do' I like to recall the high wooden pier at Digby, deserted by the tide and so blown by the wind that the passengers who came out on it, with their tossing drapery, brought to mind the ^indy Dutch harbors that Backhiiysen painted." (Wakxee's Baddeck.) Digby {Daley's Hotel) is a maritime village of about 1,000 inhabitants, situated on the S. W. shore of the Annapolis Basin, and engaged in ship- building and the fisheries of haddock, mackerel, and herring. The Digby herring are famous for their delicacy, and are known in the Provinces as '•Digby chickens." Porpoises, also, are caught in the swift currents of the Digby Gut. The village is visited by summer voyagers on account of its picturesque environs and the opportunities for fishing and sporting in the vicinity; and attempts have been made to erect a large hotel. There was a French fort here in the early days; and in 17S3 the township was granted to the ex- American Loyalists, who founded the village of Conway on these shores. Stages run between Digby and Annapolis, and also from Digby to Yarmouth (see Eoute 25). It is called 18 M. from Digby to Annapolis (though this distance seems over-estimated when compared with the charts and the course run by the steamer). The * Annapolis Basin gradually decreases from a width of nearly 5 M. to 1 M., and is hemmed in between the converging ridges of the North Jit. and the South Mt. The former range has a height of 6 - 700 ft., and is bold and mountainous in its outlines. The South ^It. is from 300 to 500 ft. high, and its lines of ascent are more gradual. The North Mt. is composed of trap, resting upon red sandstone ; and the South ]Mt. is of granite and metamorphic slates. The geologic theory is that the North Mt. was once completely insulated, and that the tides flowed through the whole valley, until a shoal at the confluence of the Blomidon and Digby currents became a bar, and this in time became dryland and a water-shed. Between the head of Argyle Bay and the slopes of the Annapolis Basin are the rarely visited and sequestered hill-ranges called the Blue Moun- tains. '"The Indians are said to have formerly resorted periodically to groves among these wilds, which they considered as consecrated places, in order to offer sacrifices to their gods." " We were sailing along the gracefully moulded and tree-covered bills of the An- napolis Basin, and up the mildly picturesque river of that name, and we were about to enter what the provincials all enthusiastically call the Garden of Nova Scotia. .... It is, — this valley of Annapolis, — in the be'lief of provincials, the most beau- tiful and blooming placie in the world, with a soil and climate kind to the husband- AXXAPOLIS EOYAL. Route 18. 85 man, a land of fair meadows, orchards, and vines It was not untU we had trarelled over the rest of the country that we saw the appropriateness of the designation. The explanation is, that not so much is required of a garden here as in some other parts of the world."' Soon after leaving Digbr, Bear Island is seen in-shore on the r. , in front of the little port oi Bear River (inn), which has a foundry, tanneries, and saw-miUs. Iron and gold are found in the vicinity, and lumber and cord- Avood are exported hence to the United States and the West Indies. A few miles beyond, and also on the S. shore, is the hamlet of ChmenUport (two inns), where large iron-works were formerly established, in connection with the ore-beds to the S. Eoads lead thence to the S. W. in 10-12 M. to the romantic districts of the Blue Mts. and the upper Liverpool Lakes (see Route 27), at whose entrance is the rural village of Chmentsvah. 8-10 M. beyond Digby the steamer passes Goat Island, of which Lescarbot writes, in Les Muses de la Xouvelle France (1609) : " Adieu mon doux plaisir fonteines et ruisseaux, Qui les vaux et les monts arrousez de vos eaux. Pourray-je t'oublier, belle ile foretiere Riche houneur de ce lieu et de cette riviere ?" In 1707 the British frigate Annibal and two brigautines were saiUng up the Basin to attack Annapolis, when they met such a sharp volley from the lie aus Chevres that they were forced to retire in confusion. The French name of the island wa^; Angli- cized by translation. On the point near this island was the first settlement of the French in Nova Scotia. A fort was erected here by the Scottish pioneers, and was restored to France by the Treaty of St. Germain, after which it was garrisoned by French troops. In 1827 a stone block was found on the point, inscribed with a square and compass and the date " 1606."' In May, 1782, there was a naval combat off Goat Island, in which an American war-brig of 8 guns was captured by H. M. S. Buckram . Above the island the Basin is about 1 M. wide, and is bordered by farm- streets. To the N. E., across a low alluvial point, are seen the spires and ramparts of Annapolis Royal, where the steamer soon reaches her wharf, after passing under the massive walls of the old forti-ess. There are sev- eral inns here, of which the American House is perhaps the best. The Grange is about 1 M. from the pier, and is an old country mansion, in broad and shadj^ grounds, now used as a summer hotel. There is also a restaurant near the railway-station. Stages run from Annapolis to Digby (Annapolis to Clementsport, 8^ M. ; Victoria Bridge, 13^; Smith's Cove, 16 ; Digby, 20^ ; — Yarmouth, 87.^). Stages also run S. E. 78 M. (semi- vreekly) to Liverpool (see Eoute 27). Annapolis Royal, the capital of Annapolis County, is a maritime and agricultural village, situated at the head of the Annapolis Basin, and con- tains 5 - 600 inhabitants. It is frequented by summer visitors on account of its pleasant environs and tempered sea-air, and the opportunities for salt- water fishing in the Basin, and fronting among the hills to the S. The chief object of interest to the passing traveller is the * old fortress which fronts the Basin and covers 28 acres with its ramparts and outworks. It is entered by the way of the fields opposite Perkins's Hotel. The works are disarmed, and have remained unoccupied for many years. One of the 86 Houte IS. AXXAPOLIS EOYAL. last occtipations was that of the Eifle Brigade, in ISoO; but the post was abandoned soon after, on account of the numerous and successful deser- tions -which thinned the ranks of the garrison. But when Canada passed into a state of semi-independence in 1S67, this fortress was one of the few domains reserved to the British Crown. The inner fort is entered by an ancient archway Avhich fronts towards the Basin, giving passage to the parade-ground, on which are the quaint old English barracks, with steep roofs and great chimneys. In the S. E. bastion is the magazine, with a vaulted roof of masoniy, near which are the foundations of the French barracks. From the parapet on this side are overlooked the landward out- works and the lines of the old Hessian and Waldecker settlements towards Clementsport. On the hillside beyond the marsh is seen an ancient house of the era of the French occupation, the only one now standing in the val- ley. In the bastion towards the river is a vaulted room, whence a passage leads down to the French garrison-wharf; but the arched way has fallen in, and the wharf is now but a shapeless pile of stones. The * view from this angle of the works is very beautiful, including the villages of Annapo- lis Eoyal and Granville, the sombre heights of the North and South Mts., and the Basin for many miles, with Goat Island in the distance. The road which leads by the fortress passes the old garrison cemetery, St. Luke's Church, the court-house and county academy, and many quaint and antiqiiated mansions. A ferry ci-osses the Annapolis Eiver to Granville (two inns), a busy little shipbuilding village, with 3-400 inhabitants and three churches. A road leads hence across the Xorth Mt. in 4-5 M., to the hamlets of RiUsburn and Leitchfidd, on the Bay of Fundy. " Without the historic light of French adventure upon this town and basin of Annapolis .... I confess that I should have no londng to sta.v here for a -week ; notwithstanding the guide-book distinctly says that this harbor has ' a striking re- semblance to the beautiful Bay of Naples." t am not offended at this remark, for it is the one always made about "a harbor, and I am siu-e the passing traveller can stand it, if the Bay of Naples can." ( Waknek's Baddeck.) The Basin of Annapolis was first entered in 1604 by De Monts's fleet, exploring the shores of Acadie ; and the beauty of the scene so impressed the Baron de Pou- trincourt that he secured a grant here, and named it Port Royal. After the failure of the colony at St. Croix Island, the people moved to this point, bringing all their stores and supplies, and settled on the N. side of the river. In July, 1606, Lescarbot and another company of Frenchmen joined the new settlement, and conducted improvements of the land, while Poutrincourt and Champlain explored the Massachusetts coast. 400 Indians had been gathered by the sagamore Member- tou in a stockaded village near the fort, and all went on well and favorably until Be Monts's grant was annulled by the King of France, and then the colony was aban- doned. Lescarbot says of this expedition, and of Port Royal itself: " I must needs be so bold as to tell in this occuiTence, that if ever that country be inhabited with Christians and civil people , the first praise thereof must of right be due to the authors of this voyage Finally, being in the port, it was unto us a thing marvellous to see the fair distance and the largeness of it, and the moun- tains and hills that environed it. and I wondered how so fair a place did remain desert, being all filled with woods, seeing that so many pine away in the world which might make good of this land, if only they had a chief governor to conduct them thither.'- ANNAPOLIS ROYAL. Route 18. 87 Four years later the brave Baron de Poutrincourt left his estates in Champagne with a deep cargo of supplies, descended the rivers Aube and Seine, and sailed out from Dieppe (Feb. 26, 1610) On arriving at Port Royal, everything was found as when left ; and the work of proselyting the Indians was at once entered on. Mem- bertou and his tribe were converted, baptized, and feasted, amid salutes from the cannon and the chanting of the Te Deum ; and numerous other forest-clans soon followed the same course. Poutrincourt was a Gallican Catholic, and hated the Jesuits, but was forced to take out two of them to his new domain. They assumed a high authority there but were sternly rebuked by the Baron, who said, " It is my part to rule you oii earth, and yours only to guide me to heaven." They threatened to lay Port Royal under interdict ; and Poutrincourt's son and successor so greatly resented this that they left the colony on a mission ship sent out by the Marchioness de (ruercheville and founded St. Sauveur, on the island of Mount Desert. In 1613, after the Vir- ginians under Capt. Argall had destroyed St. Sauveur, the vengeful Jesuits piloted their fleet to Port Royal, which was completely demolished. Poutrincourt came out in 1614 only to find his colony in ruins, and the remnant of the people wandering in the forest ; and was so disheartened that he retiu-ned to France, where he was killed, the next year, in the battle of Mery-sur-Seine. It is a memorable fact that these attacks of the Tirginians on Mount Desert and Port Royal were the very commencement of the wars between Great Britain and France in North America, " which scarcely ever entirely ceased until, at the cost of infinite blood and treasure, France was stripped of all her possessions in America by the peace of 1763." Between 1620 and 1630 an ephemeral Scottish colony was located at Port Royal, and was succeeded by the French. In 1628 the place was captured by Sir David Kirk, with an English fleet, and was left in ruins. In 1634 it was granted to Claude de Razilly, " Seigneur de Razilly, des Eaux Mesles et Cuon, en Anjou," who after- wards became commandant of Oleron and vice-admiral of France. He was a bold naval oSicer, related to Cardinal Richelieu ; and his brother Isaac commanded at Lahave (see Route 25). His lieutenants were D'Aulnay Charnisay and Charles de la Tour, and he transferred all his Acadian estates to the former, in 1642, after which began the feudal wars between those two nobles (see page 19). Several fleets sailed from Port Royal to attack La Tour, at St. John ; and a Boston fleet, in aUiance with La Tour, assailed Port Royal. In 1654 the town was under the rule of Emmanuel le Borgne, a merchant of La Rochelle, who had succeeded to D'Aulnay's estates, by the aid of Cesar, Duke of Vendome, on account of debts due to him from the Acadian lord. Later in the same year the fortress was taken by a fleet sent out by Oliver CromweU, but the in- habitants of the valley were not disturbed. By the census of 1671 there were 361 souls at Port Royal, with over 1,000 head of live-stock and 364 acres of cultivated land. In 1684 the fishing-fleet of the port was captured by English " corsairs " ; and in 1686 there were 622 souls in the town. In 1690 the fort contained 18 cannon and 86 soldiers, and was taken and pillaged by- Sir William Phipps, who sailed from Boston with 3 war-vessels and 700 men. A few months later it was plundered by corsairs from the West Indies, and in 1691 the Chevalier de Villebon took the fort in the name of France. Baron La Hontan wrote : " Port Royal, the capital, or the only city of Acadia, is in eff'ect no more than a little paltry town that is somewhat enlarged since the war broke out in 1689 by the accession of the inhabitants that lived near Boston, the metropolitan of New England. It subsists upon the traffic of the skins which the savages bring thither to truck for European goods." In the summer of 1707 the fortress was attacked by 2 regiments and a small fleet, from Boston, and siege operations were commenced. An attempt at storming the works by night was frustrated by M. de Subercase's vigilance and the brisk fire of the French artillery, and the besiegers were finally forced to retire with severe loss. A few weeks later a second expedition from Massa- chusetts attacked the works, but after a siege of 15 days their camps were stormed by the Baron de St. Castin and the Chevalier de la Boularderie, and the feebly led Americans were driven on board their ships. Subercase then enlarged the fortress, made arrangements to run off slaves from Boston ,. and planned to capture Rhode Island, "which is inhabited by rich Quakers, and is the resort of rascals and even pirates." In the autumn of 1710 the frigates Dragon, Chester, Falmouth, Leostaffe, Fevers- ham, Star, and Province, with 20 transports, left Boston and sailed to Port Royal. 88 Route IS. THE ANNAPOLIS VALLEY. There -were 2 regiments from Massachusetts, 2 from the rest of New England, and 1 of Royal Marines. After the erection of mortar-batteries, several days were spent in bombarding the fort from the fleet and the siege-hnes, but the fire from the ram- parts was kept up steadily until the garrison were on the ver^e of starvation ; Suber- case then surrendered his forces (258 men), who were shipped off to France, and Gen. Nicholson changed the name of Port Royal to Annapolis Royal, in honor of Queen Anne, then sovereign of Great Britain. In 1711, 80 New-Englanders from the garrison were cut to pieces at Bloody Brook, 12 M. up the river, and the fortress was then invested by the Acadians and Micmacs. For nearly 40 years afterwards Annapolis was almost always in a state of siege, being menaced "from" time to time by the disaffected Acadians and their savage allies. In 1744 the non-combatants were sent to Boston for safety , and in July of that year the fort was beleaguered by a force of fanatic Catholics under the Abb6 Laloutre. Five companies of Massachusetts troops soon joined the garrison, and the besiegers were reinforced by French regulars from Louisbourg. The siege was continued for nearly three months, but Gov. Mascarene showed a bold front, and provisions and men came in from Boston. The town was destroyed by the artillery of the fort and by incendiary sorties, since it served to shelter the hostile riflemen. Soon after Duvivier and Laloutre had retired, two French frigates entered the Basin and captured some ships of Massachusetts, but left four days before Tyng"s Boston squadron arrived. A year later, De Ramezay menaced the fort with 700 men, but was easily beaten off by the garrison, aided by the frigates Chester, 50, and Shirley, 20, whicli were lying in the Basin. After the deportation of the Acadians, Annapolis remained in peace until 1781, when two American war- vessels ascended the Basin by night, surprised and captured the fortress and spiked its guns, and plundered every house in the town, after locking the citizens up in the oM block-house. The Annapolis Valley. This pretty district has suffered, like the St. John River, from the absurdly ex- travagant descriptions of its local admirers, and its depreciation by Mr. Warner (see page 84) expresses the natural reaction which must be felt bj' travellers (unless they are from Newfoundland or Labrador) after comparing the actual valley with these high-flown panegyrics. A recent Provincial writer says: " The route of the Wind- sor & Annapolis Railway lies through a magnificent farming-country whose beauty is so great that we exhaust the English language of its adjectives, and are compelled to revert to the quaint old French which was spoken by the early settlers of this Garden of Canada, in our efforts to describe it." In point of fact the Annapolis region is far inferior either in beauty or fertility to the valleys of the Nashua, the Schuylkill, the Shenandoah, and scores of other familiar streams which have been described without effusion and without impressing the service of alien languages. The Editor walked through a considerable portion of this valley , in the process of a closer analysis of its features, and found a tranquil and commonplace farming- district, devoid of salient points of interest, and occupied by an insuflacient popula- tion, among M'hose hamlets he found unvarying and honest hospitality and kind- ness. It is a peaceful rural land, hemmed in between high and monotonous ridges, blooming during its brief summer, and will afford a series of pretty views and pleas- ing suggestions to the traveller whose expectations have not been raised beyond bounds by the exaggerated praises of well-meaning, but injudicious authors. It is claimed that the apples of the Annapolis Talley are the best in America, and 50,000 barrels are exported yearly, — many of which are sold in the cities of Great Britain. The chief productions of the district are hay, cheese, and live-stock, a large proportion of which is exported. The Halifax train runs out from Annapolis over the lowlands, and takes a course to the N. E., near the old highway. Bridgetown {Granville House) is the first important station, and is 14 M. from Annapolis, at the head of navigation on the river. It has about 1,000 inhabitants, 4 churches, and a weekly newspaper, and is situated in a district of apple orchards and rich pastures. Some manufacturing is done on the water-power of WILMOT SPEINGS. Route 18. 89 the Annapolis River ; and the surrounding country is well populated, and is reputed to be one of the healthiest districts in Nova Scotia. To the S. is Bloody Brook, where a detachment of New-England troops was mas- sacred by the French and Indians ; and roads lead up over the South Mt. into the howling wilderness of the interior. 5 M. from Bridgetown, over the North Mt., is the obscure marine hamlet of Hampton. Paradise (small inn) is a pleasantly situated village of about 400 inhab- itants, with several saw and grist mills and tanneries. The principal ex- ports ai-e lumber and cheese, though there are also large deposits of mer- chantable granite in the vicinity. A road crosses the North Mt. to Port Williams, 7 M. distant, a fishing-village of about 300 inhabitants, situated on the Bay of Fundy. The coast is illuminated here, at night, by two white lights. Farther down the shore is the hamlet of St. Croix Cove. Lawrencetown is a prosperous village of about 600 inhabitants, whence much lumber is exported. In 1754, 20,000 acres in this vicinity were granted to 20 gentlemen, who named their new domain in honor of Gov. Lawrence. 8 M. distant, on the summit of the North Mt., is the hamlet of Havelock, beyond Avhich is the farming settlement of Mt. Hawley, near the Bay of Fundy. New Albany (small inn) is a forest-village 8-10 M. S. E. of Lawrencetown ; and about 10 M. farther into the great central wilderness is the farming district of Springfield, beyond the South Mt. JfiWZe^ore( Mid die ton Hotel) is a small village near the old iron-mines on the South Mt. A few miles S. of Middleton are the Nictau Falls, a pretty cascade on a small mountain-stream. 1\ M, from Middleton is the ham- let of Lower Middleton, surrounded by orchards, with an Anglican church, and a seminary for young ladies. Wilmot station is ^ M. from Farming- ton (two inns), a pleasant little Presbyterian village. Margaretsville (Har- ris's Hotel) is 7 M. distant, across the North Mt., and is a shipbuilding and fishing settlement of 300 inhabitants, situated on the Bay of Fundy. Fruit and lumber are exported hence to the United States. Near this point is a fixed red light of high power. The TV^ilmot Springs are about 3 M. from Fannington, and have, for many years, enjoyed a local celebrity for their efficacy in healing cutaneous diseases and wounds. They were formerly much resorted to, but are now nearly abandoned, though bathing-houses and other accommodations are kept here. The springs are situated in a grove of tall trees near the road, filling two large basins ; and the water is cold, clear, and nearly tasteless. The principal ingredients are, in each gallon : 78 grains of sulphuric acid, 54.| grains of lime, 6 grains of soda and potash, and 3 grains of magnesia. A few visitors pass the summer at Wilmot every year, on ac- count of the benefits resulting from the use of these waters. Kingston station is 1^ M. from Kingston, 2 M. from Melvern Square, 2^ M, from Tremont, and 4 M. from Prince William Street, rural hamlets in the valley. From Morden Eoad station a highway runs N. W. 7 M. across the North Mt. to the little port of Morden, or French Cross (Balcomb's Hotel), on the Bay of Fundy. Station Aylesford (Patterson's Hotel), a small hamlet from which a road runs S. E. to Factory Dale (4 ]\I.), a man- 90 F.out-: IS. KEXTVILLE. utaomring hamlet whence the valley is overlooked : and the farming towns otJack^vi vlUt and Morristoicn are 5 - 7 M. away, on the top of the South Mt. Hake George i^Ha::'s inn) is 12 M. distant, whence the great forest-bound chain cf the Aylesford Lakes may be risited. The chief of these is Kfmpt Lake, ■svhich is about 7 M- loug. A road runs S. from the L;ike George settlement by Lake Paul and Owl Lake to Fa:k-Iand (32 M. from Aylesford). vrhich is on the great Lake Sherbrooke. in Lunenburg County, near the head-waters of the Gold River. '■ The great Aylesfonl Wid-pLain folks call it. in a ginral way, the Devil's Goose Pasture. " It is IS M. long and 7 M. wide : it ain"t just drifting sands, but it "s aU but that, it "s so barren. It "s uneven, or wavy, like the sweU of the sea in a calm, and is covered with short, thin, dry, coarse grass, and dotted here and there with a half-starved birch and a stimted misshapen spruce. It is jest about as silent and lonesome and desolate a place a* you would wish to see All that country thereabouts, as I have heard tell when I was a boy. was once owned by the Lord, the king, and the devil. The glebe-lands belonged to the first, the ungranted wil- demess^lands to the second, and the sand-plain fell to the share of the last (and people do say the old gentleman was rather done in the division, but that is neither here nor there), and so it is called to this day the DeviFs Goose Pasture." Station, BeriricJ: (two inns), a prosperous village of 400 inhabitants, where the manufacture of shoes is carried on. A road leads to the X. "W. 7 M. across Pleasant Valley and the Black Rock Mt. to Harborville, a ship- building village on the Bay of Fundy, whence large quantities of cordwood and potatoes are shipped to the United States. Several miles farther up the bay-shore is the village of Canada Creel; near which is a lighthouse. At Berwick the line enters the * Comwallis Valley, which is shorter but much more picturesque than that of Annapolis. Following the course of the Comwallis River, the line approaches the base of the South Mt., while the Xorth Mt. trends away to the X. E. at an ever-increasing angle. Beyond the rural stations of AVaterville, Cambridge, and Coldbrook, the train reaches Zentville ( Websitr Eoiise ; restaurant in the station), the headquarters of the railway and the capital of Kings County-. This town has 1,000 inhabitants, 4 churches, and a weekly newspaper; and there are several mills and quarries in the vicinity. Raw umber and manganese have been found here. The roads to the X. across the moimtain lead to the maritime hamlets of Hall's Harbor (10 M.), Chipman's Brook (1-t M.), and Baxter's Harbor (12 M."); also to Sheffield Mills (7 M.), Canning (S M.), Steam MiUs (2 M.\, and Billtown (6 M.). KentviUe to Chester. The Royal mail-stage? leave KentviUe at 6 A. sr. on Monday and Thursday, reach- ing Chester in the afternoon. The return trip is made on Tuesday aud Friday. The distance between KentviUe and Chester is 40 M.. and the intervening country is wild and picturesque. After passing the South Mt. by the Miil-Brook YaUey, at 8-10 M. from Kenrrille, the road runs near the Gaspereaux Laki , a beautiful forest-loch about 5 M. long, with many islands and highly diversitied shores. This water is connected by short straits with the island-studded Two-Mile Lake and the Four-Mile Lake, near which are the romantic Aylesford Lakes. E. and S. E. of the Gaspereaux Lake are the trackless solitudes of the far-spreading Blue Mts., amid whose recesses are the lakelets where the Gold River takes its rise. At 20 M. from KentviUe the stage enters the Episcopal viUage of Xeic Ross (Turner's Hotel), at the crossing of the Dalhousie Road from HaUfix to Annapolis. From this point the stage descends the valley of the Gold River to Chester (see Route 24). WINDSOR. Route 18. 91 The Halifax train runs E. from Kentville down the Cornwallis Valley to Port Williams, which is 1^ M. from the village of that name, whence daily- stages run to Canning. The next station is Wolfville, from which the Land of Evangeline may most easily be visited (see Eoute 22). The buildings of Acadia College are seen on the hill to the r. of the track. The Halifax train runs out from Wolfville with the wide expanse of the reclaimed meadows on the L, beyond which is Cape Blomidon, looming leagues away. In a few minutes the train reaches Grand Pre, and as it slows up before stopping, the tree is seen (on the 1. about 300 ft. from the track) which marks the site of the ancient Acadian chapel. Beyond Hor- ton Landing the Gaspereaux Eiver is crossed, and the line begins to swing around toward the S. E. At Avovport the line reaches the broad Avon River, and runs along its 1. bank to Eanisport (two inns). This is a large manufacturing and shipbuilding village, where numerous vessels are owned. In the vicinity are productive quarries of freestone. Mount Benson station is near the hill whose off-look Judge Haliburton so highly extols : — " I have seen at dififerent periods of my life a good deal of Europe and much of America ; but I have seldom seen anything to be compared with the view of the Basin of Minas and its adjacent landscape, as it presents itself to you on your ascent of Mount Denson He who travels on this continent, and does not spend a few days on the shores of this beautiful and extraordinary basin, may be said to have missed one of the greatest attractions on this side of the water.-' The next station is Falmouth, in a region which abounds in gypsum. Back toward Central Falmouth thei-e are prolific orchards of apples. The line now crosses the Avon River on the most costly bridge in the Mari- time Provinces, over the singular tides of this system of waters. The traveller who passes from Annapolis to Windsor at the hours of low-tide will sympathize with the author of " Baddeck," who says that the Avon " would have been a charming river if there had been a drop of water in it. I never knew before how much water adds to a river. Its slimy bottom was quite a ghastly spectacle, an ugly rent in the land that nothing could heal but the friendly returning tide. I should think it would be confusing to dwell by a river that runs first one way and then the other and then vanishes altogether." The remarkable tides of this river are also described by Mr. Noble, as follows : The tide was out, " leaving miles of black " (red) " river-bottom entirely bare, with only a small stream coursing through in a serpentine manner. A line of blue water was visible on the northern horizon. After an absence of an hour or so, I loitered back, when, to my surprise, there was a river like the Hudson at Catskill, running up with a powerful current. The high wharf, upon which but a short time before I had stood and surveyed the black, unsightly fields of mud, was now up to its mid- dle in the turbid and whirUng stream.' ' Windsor ( Clifton House, large and comfortable; Avon House) is a cul- tured and prosperous village of 2,715 inhabitants, occupying the promon- tory at the intersection of the Avon and St. Croix Rivers. The adjacent districts of Falmouth and St. Croix have about 3,300 inhabitants. There are in Windsor 7 churches, a bank, and several manufactories; there are also several busy shipyards. The chief exportation of Windsor is plaster of Paris and gypsum, large quantities of which are used in the United 92 Boute IS. WINDSOR. States for fertilizing the soil. Kear the end of the railway bridge, on a projecting hill, is the Clifton mansion, formerly the home of the genial and witty Thomas C. Halibiirton (born at Windsor in 1797, 13 years a Judge iu Xova Scotia, 6 years an M. P. at London, and died in 1865), the author of the "Sam Shck" books. On the knoll over the village are the crumbling block-houses and earth- works of Fort Edicard, whence is obtained a pretty view down the widen- ing Avon and out over the distant Basin of Minas. About 1 M. from the station, on a hill which overlooks the fine valley of the Avon and its lui- cleared mountain-rim, are the plain buildings of King's College, the old- est college now existing in Canada. It -was founded in 17S7. and chartewd by King George III. in 1S02. It is under the control and patronage of the Anglican Church, and" is well endowed with schol- arship?!, honoi-s, etc., but has only 5 professors and a limiteil number of students. The Nova-Scotians have not hitherto sought to qualify themselves by culture and study for public honors and preferments, because they knew that all the offices ia the Province would be fiUeil by British carpet-baggers. King's College has also a divinity school for Episcopjihan students. The "Province of Xova Scotia is occupied by 36 Christian sects. Of its inhabitants. 6-3,124 belong to the AngUcan Church, and tu-e ministered to by a lord bishop, i canons, S rur:\l deans, and 6S clergymen. There are 102.001 Cathohcs. lOS.oSi* Pres- byterians, 73,430 Bixptists, 41.751 "Methodists, and 4,95S Lutherans (census of 1S71). The site of ATindsor was called by the Indians Pisiquid, " the Junction of the "Waters, ■■ and the adjacent lowlands were settled at an early day by the French, who raised large quantities of wheat and exported it to Boston, the French settled in this vicinity about the middle of the 17th century, but retired tar into the interior at the time of the British conquest. Gov. Lawrence issued a proclamation inviting settlers to come in from New England, stating that " 100,000 aci-es of land had been cultivated and had borne wheat, rye. barleyToats. hemp, flax, etc., for the last cen- tury without failure." The deserted French hamlets were occupied in 1759-60 by fi\milies fivm Massachusetts and Rhode Island, and their descendants still possess the land. The Rhode-Islanders erected the township of Newport, Massachusetts formed Fahuouth. and Windsor w:\s granted to British officers and was fortified in 1759. The broad rich mtirshes near Windsor had attracted a large Acadian popula- tion, and here was their principal church, whose site is still venerated by the Mic- mac Indians. " I cannot recall a prettier village than this. If you doubt my word, come and see it. Yonder we discern a portion of the Basin of Minas ; around us are the rich meadows of Nova Scotia. Intellect has here placed a crowning coUege upon a hill ; opulence has surrounded it with picturesque villas.'" (CozziNS.) Another writer h;is spoken with enthusiasm of AViudsor's '* wide and beautiful environing mead- ows and the hanging-gardens of mountain-forests on the S. and W." The Halifax ti-ain sweeps along the St. Croix Kiver around Windsor, passing (on the r.) the dark buildings of King's College, on a hilltop, with the new chapel iu fi-ont of their line. The character of the landscape be- gins to change, and to present a striking contrast with the agricultural regions just traversed. *' Indeed, if a man can live on rocks, like a goat, he may settle anywhere between Windsor and Halifax. With the exception of a wild pond or two, we saw nothing but rocks and stxinted fire for forty-five miles, a monotony unrelieved by one pic- tui-esque feature. Then we longed for the " Gai\ien of Nova Scotia,' and understood what is meant by the name." ( »\"akser's Baiideck:) Eeycud Three-Mile Plains the train reaches X<:irj)ort, near which large HALIFAX. Route 19. 93 quantities of gypsum are quarried from the veins in the soft marly sand- stone. Nearly 3,000 tons of this fine fibrous mineral are shipped yearly from Newport to the United States. To the N. are the villages of Brooklyn (5 M.), devoted to manufacturing; Scotch Village (9 M.), a farming settlement; and Burlington, on the Kennetcook Eiver (10 M.). Chivirie and Walton, 20-22 M. N., on the Basin of Minas, are accessible from Newport by a tri-weekly conveyance. The train passes on to Ellers- house (small inn), a hamlet clustered around a furniture-factory and lumber-mills. 2i M. distant is the settlement at the foot of the Ardoise 3ft., which is the highest point of land in the Province, and overlooks Falmouth, Windsor, and the Basin of Minas. The train now crosses the Five-Island Lake, skirts Uniacke Lake, with Mt. Uniacke on the N., and stops at the Mt. Uniacke station (small inn). The Mt. Uniacke estate and mansion were founded more than 50 years ago by Richard John Uniacke, then Attorney-General of Nova Scotia. The house, occupies a picturesque position between two rock-bound lakes, and the domain has a hard- working tenantry. The 3Tt. Uniacke Gold-Mines are 3 il. from the sta- tion, and were opened in 1865. In 1869 the mines yielded $37,340, or $ 345 to each workman, being 6 ounces and 4 pennyweights from each ton of ore. For the next 10 M. the line traverses an irredeemable wil- derness, and then reaches Beaver Bank, whence lumber and slate are exported. At Windsor Junction, the train runs on to the rails of the Intercolonial Railway (see page 82), which it follows to Halifax. 19. Halifax. Arrival from tlie Sea. — Cape Sambro is usually seen first by the passenger on the transatlantic steamers, and Halifax Harbor is soon entered between the light- houses on Chebucto Head and Devil Island. These lights are 7^ ^J- apart, Chebucto (on the 1.) having a revolving light visible for 18 M., and Devil Island a fixed red light on a brown tower. On the W. shore the fishing-hamlets of Portuguese Cove, Bear Cove, and Herring Cove are passed in succession. 4 M. S. E. of Herring Cove is the dangerous Thrumcap Shoal, where H. B. M. frigate La Tribune, 44, was ■wrecked in 1797, and nearly all her people were lost, partly by reason of an absurd stretch of naval punctilio. Between this shoal and McNab's Island on one side, and the mainland on the other, is the long and narrow strait called the Eastern Passage. In 1862 the Confederate cruiser Tallahassee was blockaded in Halifax Harbor by a squadron of United-States frigates. The shallow and tortuous Eastern Passage was not watched, since nothing but small fishing-craft had ever traversed it, and it was considered impassable for a steamer like the Tallahassee. But Capt. Wood took ad- vantage of the high tide, on a dark night, and crept cautiously out behind McNab's Island. By daylight he was far out of sight of the outwitted blockading fleet. 2 M. from Herring Cove the steamer passes Salisbury Head, and runs between the Martello Tower and lighthouse on Maugher Beach (r. side) and the York Redoubt {\X M. apart) Near the Redoubt is a Catholic church, and a little above is the hamlet of Falkland, with its Episcopal church, beyond which the N. W. Arm opens on the 1. Passing between the batteries on McNab's Island and Fort Ogilvie, on Point Pleasant, the steamship soon runs by Fort Clarence and the fortress on George Island, and reaches her wharf at Halifax, with the town of Dartmouth and the great Insane Asylum on the opposite shore. Arrival by Railway. — The station is at Richmond, some distance from the city, but passengers can go in either by carriage, hotel-omnibus, or horse-car. The railway is now being prolonged by a system of costly works, and will soon reach a terminus within the city. 94 Route 19. HALIFAX. Hotels. — The * Halifax, 107 Hollis St., $ 2 a day ; the * International, on Hoi- lis St., S 1.75-2 a day ; Carlton House, 57 Argyle St., small but aristocratic ; Man- sion House, li9 Barrington St. ; Warerley, 8 Barrington St. ; and numerous small second-class houses, of which the Arlington and the Cambridge, nearly opposite the International, are the best situated (g?l- 1.25 a day). An attempt is now being made to provide for Halifax a first-class modern hotel, like the Victoria at St. John. Restaurants. — One of the best is that connected with the Acadian Hotel, 64 Granville St. Ices, pastrj', and confectionery may be obtained at the shops on Hol- lis St. American beverages are compounded at the bar in the Halifax House. Keadiiig-Kooms. — The Young INIen's Christian Association, corner of Gran- ville and Prince Sts. ; the Provincial Library, in the Parliament Buildings ; and in the two chief hotels. The Halifax Library is at 197 Hollis St . : and the Citizens' Free Library (founded by Chief Justice Sir Wilham Young) is at 265 Barrington St., and is open from 3 to 6 p. M. The Merchants' Exchange and Reading-Room is at 158 Hollis St. Clubs. — The Halifax Club has an elegant house at 155 HoUis St. ; the Albion is at 87 HoUis St. ; the Catholic l^oung Men's Club, 1 Grafton St. (open from 2 to 10 P. M.); the Highland, North British, St. George's, Charitable Irish, and Germania Societies. The Royal Halifax Yacht Club has a house at Richmond, with billiard and reading rooms, and a line of piers and boat-houses for the vessels of their fleet. Amusements of various kinds are afforded, at different times, in the Temper- ance Hall, on Starr St. During the winter some fine skating is enjoyed at the Rink, in the Public Gardens. Good games of cricket and indifferent base-baU playing may be seen on the Garrison Cricket-ground. But Halifax is chiefly iamous for the in- terest it takes in trials of skill between yachtsmen and oarsmen, and exciting aquatic contests occur frequently during the svunmer. Horse-cars run every 15 minutes, from 6 A. M. to 10 p. m., from the Richmond Station to the Fresh- Water Bridge, ti-aversing the Campbell Road, Upper Water St., GranvUle St., Holhs, Morris, and Pleasant Sts. Also on Barrington St. and the Spring Garden Road to the Poor Asylum. Rail-vvays. — The Intercolonial, running to St. John, N. B., in 276 M. (see Routes 16 and 17), and to Pictou in 113 M. (see Route 31); the Windsor & Annap- olis, prolonged by a steamship connection to St. John (see Route 18). Steamsliips. — The Allan Line, fortnightly, for St. John's, N. F., Queenstown, and Liverpool, Norfolk, and Baltimore. Fares, Hahfax to Liverpool, $75 and $25; to Norfolk or Baltimore, ^20 and S12. The Anchor Line, for St. John's, N. F., and Glasgow. The Royal Mail Steamers Alpha and Delta (Cunard Line) leave Halifax for Bermuda and St. Thomas every fourth Monday, connecting at St. Thomas with steamships for all parts of the West Indies, Panama, and the Spanish Main. The Carroll and Alhambra leave Esson's "Wharf for Boston on alternate Satur- days. Fare, $8; with state-room, $9. The Falmouth leaves Dominion Wharf for Portland every Tuesday at 4 p. m. This vessel is nearly new, and is handsomely fitted up for passenger-trafl5c. Fares, Halifax to Portland, $ 7 and S 5 ; to Boston, § 8 and $ 6.50 ; to New York (by the Sound boats), $ 12 and S 10.50. The Carroll or the Alhambra leaves Esson's Wharf every Monday noon for the Strait of Canso and Charlotte town, P. E. I. Fares to Charlottetown, cabin, $4; cabin state-room, $5; saloon state-room, $6. The George Shattvck leaves Boak's Wharf, fortnightly, for N. Sydney, C. B., and St. Pierre Miq. (see Route 50). The steamship Virgo leaves for Sydney, C B., and St. John's, N. F. , every alternate Tues- day (see Routes 36 and 51). Fares, to Sydney, § 8 ; to St. John's, % 15 ; steerage to either port, § 5. The Micmac cruises in the harbor during the summer, running from the South Ferry Wharf to McNab's Island and up the N. W. Arm (fare, 25c.). The steam- ferry from Dartmouth has its point of departure near the foot of George St. The Goliah makes frequent trips up the Bedford Basin. Stages leave Halifax daily for Chester, Lunenburg, Liverpool, Shelbume, and Yarmouth (see Route 24), departing at 6 a. m. Stages leave at 6 a. m. on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday for Musquodoboit Harbor, Jeddore, Ship Harbor, Tangier, Sheet Harbor, Beaver Harbor, and Salmon River (see Route 29). Halifax, the capital of the Province of Nova Scotia, and the chief naval station of the British Empire in the \Yestern Hemisphere, occupies a commanding position on one of the finest harbors of the Atlantic coast. It HALIFAX. Route 19. 95 has 29,582 inhabitants (census of 1871), with 7 banks, 4 daily papers and several tri-weeklies and weeklies, and 24 churches (7 Anglican, 5 Presby- terian, 3 each of Catholic, Wesleyan, and Baptist). The c'lij occupies a picturesque position on the E, slope of the peninsula (of 3,000 acres), be- tween the bay, the N. W. Arm, and the Bedford Basin; and looks out upon a noble harbor, deep, completely sheltered, easily accessible, and large enough " to contain all the navies of Europe." In 1869 the imports amounted to $7,202,504, and the exports to $3,169,548; and in 1870 the assessed valuation of the city was $16,753,812. The city has a copious supply of water, which is drawn from the Chain Lakes, about 12 M. dis- tant, and so high above Halifax that it can force jets over the highest houses by its own pressure. There is a fire-alarm telegraph, and an effi- cient fire department, 'with several steam-engines. The city lies along the shore of the harbor for 2^ M., and is about | M. wide. Its plan is regular, and some of the business streets are well built ; but the general character of the houses is that of poor construction and dingy colors. It has, however, been much bettered of late years, owing to the improvements after two great fires, and to the wealth which flowed in during the American civil war, and hardly deserves the severe criticism of a recent traveller: "Probably there is not anywhere a more rusty, for- lorn town, and this in spite of its magnificent situation." Hollis and Granville Streets, in the vicinity of the Parliament Buildings, contain the most attractive shops and the headquarters of the great import- ing houses. Many of the buildings in this section are of solid and elegant construction, though the prevalence of dark colors gives a sombre hue to the street lines. The Parliament Building occupies the square between HoIHs, George, Granville, and Prince Streets, and is surrounded with trees. In 1830 this plain structure of gray stone was called the finest building in North America, but American architecture has advanced very far since that time. Opposite the Granville-St. entrance is the Library, occupying a very cosey little hall, and supplied with British and Canadian works on law, history, and science. In the N. part of the building is the plain and commodious hall of the House of Assembly ; and on the S. is the chamber of the Legislative Council, in which are some fine portraits. On the r. and 1. of the vice-regal throne are full-length * portraits of King George III. and Queen Charlotte; on the N. wall are Chief Justice Blowers, King Wilham IV., Judge Haliburton (see page 92), * Sir Thomas Strange (by Benjamin West), and Sir Brenton Haliburton. Opposite the throne are Nova Scotia's military heroes. Sir John Inglis (the defender of Lucknow) and Sir W. Fenwick Williams of Kars. On the S. wall are full-length por- traits of King George II. and Queen Caroline. The new Provincial Building is E. of the Parliament Building, on Hollis St., and is 140 by 70 ft in area. It is built of brown freestone, in 96 Boutc 19. HALIFAX. an omate style of architectnre, and cost §120,000. The lower storj- is occnpied by tlie Post-Otfice ; and the third floor contains the * Provincial Museum, which exhibits preserved birds, animals, reptiles, fossils, min- erals, shells, coins, and specimens of the stones, minerals, coals, and gold ores of Xova Scotia. There are also numerous Indian relics, curiosities from Japan aud China, naval models, and old portraits. Opposite the en- trance is a gilt pyramid, which represents the amount of gold produced in the Province between 1SG2 and 1S70, — 5 tons, 8 cwt., valued at S 3,373,4:31. Most of this gold has been coined at the U. S. Mint in Phila- delphia, and is purer and finer than that of California and Jlontana. On the corner of GnmviUe and Prince Streets, near the Parliament Bnilding, is the new and stately stone building of the Young Men's Chris- tian Association, with its reading-rooms and other departments. The massive brownstone house of the Halifax Club is to the S.. on HoUis St. The * Citadel covers the summit of the hill upon whose slopes the city is built, and is 250 ft. above the level of the sea. Visitors are adriiitted and allowed to pass around the ramparts under escort of a soldier, at\er regis- tering their names at the gate. The attendant soldier will point out all the objects of interest, and (if he be an artillerist) will give instructive discourse on the armament, though his language may sometimes become hopelessly technical. The Citadel is a fortress of the first class, according to the standards of tlie old school ; though of late years the government has bestowed much attention on the works at George's Island, which are more important in a naval point of view. The -works were commenced bv Prince Edward, the Duke of Kent, and the father of Queen Tictoria. who was then Commander of the Forces on this station. He em- ployed in the service a large number of the Maroons, who had been conquered by the" British, and were banished from Jamaica, and subsequently deported to Sierra Leone. Changes and additions have been made nearly every year since, until the present immense stronghold has been completed. It is separated fivrn the glacis by a deep moat, over which are the guns on the numerous bastions. The massire ma- sonry of the walls seems to defy assault, and the extensive barracks witMn are said to be bomb-proof. During the years lS7o-7i the artUlery has been changed, and the previous mixed armament lias been to a great degree replaced by muzzle-load- ing "Woolwich guns of heavy calibre, adapted for firing the conical Palliser shot with points of chill«?d iron. The" visitor is allowed to walk around the circtut of the ram- parts, and this elevated station affords a broad view on either side. Perhaps the l-est prospect is that from the S. E. bastion, overlooking the crowded city on the slopes below: the narrow harbor with its shipping: Dartmouth, sweeping up to- ward Bedford Basin; Fort Clarence, below Dartmouth, with its dark casemates; McXab's Island, crowned with batteries and shutting in the Eastern Passage : the outer harbor, with its fortified points, and the ocean beyond. Near the portal of the citadel is an outer battery of antiquated guns ; and at the S. end of the glacis are the extensive barracks of the Royal Artillery. Other mili- t:iry quarters are seen on the opposite side of the Citadel. "But if you cast your eyes over yonder magnificent bay, where vessels bearing flags of all nations are at anchor, and then let your vision sweep past and over the islands to the outlets beyond, where the quiet ocean lies, bordered with fog-banks that loom ominously at the boundary -line of the horizon, you will see a picture of marvellous beauty: for the coast scenery here transcends our own sea-shores, both in color and outline. And behind us again stretch large green plains, dotted with cottages, and bounded with undulating hills, with now and then glimpses of blue HALIFAX. . Route 19. 97 ■water ; and as we walk down Citadel Hill, we feel half reconciled to Halifax, its quaint mouldy old gables, its soldiers and sailors, its fogs, cabs, penny and half- penny tokens, and all its little, odd, outlandish peculiarities."' (Cozzcns.) Lower Water St. borders the harbor-front, and gives access to the wharves of the various steamship and packet lines. It runs from the Ordnance Yai-d, at the foot of Buckingham St., to the Government reser- vation near George Island, and presents a remarkably dingy and dilapi^ dated appearance throughout its entire length. The Queen's Dockyard occupies ^ M. of the shore of the upper harbor, and is surrounded on the landward side by a high stone-wall. It contains the usual paraphernalia of a first-class navy-yard, — storehouses, machine- shops, docks, arsenals, a hospital, and a line of officers' quarters. It is much used by the frigates of the British navy, both to repair and to refit, and the visitor may generally see here two or three vessels of Her Britan- nic Majesty. The Dockyard was founded in 1758, and received great additions (including the present wall) in 1770. During the two great wars with the United States it was invaluable as a station for the royal navy, whose fleets thence descended upon the American coast. Many trophies of the war of 1812 were kept here (as similar marine mementos of another nation are kept in the Brooklyn and Washington Navy- Yards), including the figure-head of the unfortunate American frigate, the Chesapeake, which was captured in 1813, off Boston Harbor, by the British frigate Shannon, and was brought into Halifax with great rejoicing. It is , perhaps, in kindly recognition of the new fraternity of the Anglo-American nations, that the Imperial Government has lately caused these invidious emblems of strife to be removed. The Dockyard is not open to the public, but the superintendent wiU generally admit visitors upon presentation of their cards. In the N. W. part of the city, near the foot of Citadel Hill, is the Military Hospital, before which is the Garrison Chapel, a plain wooden building on whose inner walls are man}^ mural tablets in memory of ofll- cers who have died on this station. Beyond this point, Brunswick St. runs N. W. by the Church of the Redeemer to St. George's Church, a sin- gular wooden building of a circular form. At the corner of Brunswick and Gerrish Sts. is a cemetery, in which stands a quaint little church dating from 1761, having been erected by one of the first companies of German immigrants. On Gottingen St. is the Church of St. Joseph, where the Catholic seamen of the fleet attend mass on Sunday at 9^ A. m. Near this building is the Orphan Asylum of the Sisters of Charity. Farther N. on Gottingen St. is the Deaf and Dumb Asylum, beyond which, on North St., is the Roman Catholic College of St. Mary, at Belle Air. This institution is under the charge of the Christian Brothers, and has the same line of studies as an American high-school. Farther out on Gottingen St. is the Admiralty House, the official residence of the com- mander-in-chief of the North-American and WestJpdian Squadrons, be- yond which are the Wellington Barracks, over the Richmond railway- station. From the plateau on which the secluded AdmJralty House is 5 '■■■■■ ' ■■ ■' '■■ ■■ ^- " 9S Fu^ut; 19. HALIFAX. located, the visitor can look down en the Queen's Dockyard, the fleet, and the inner harbor. The Eomon Carhohc Cathedral of St. Mary is on the Spring Garden Eoad. near its intersection with Pleasant St. It has recently been much enlarged and improved by the addition of an elegant granite facade and spire, in florid Ok>thic architectnre. The Cathedral fronts on an old and honored cemetery, on -whose E. side is a finely conceived *monnment to Welsford and Parker, the Xova-Scotian heroes of the Crimean War. (Major Welsford was killed in the storming of the Eedan.) It consists of a small bnt massive arch of browustone. standing on a broad gnmite base, and supporting a statue of the British lion. Opposite the cemetery, on Pleasant St., is the Presbyterian Chnrch of St. Matthew (under the care of Rev. George M. Grant). Above the Cathedral, on the Spring Garden Eoad. is the handsome building of the Court House, well situated amid open grounds, near the jail and the capacious drill-sheds. The fforficultural Gardtus are on the Spring G:irden Eoad, and are weU arranged and cared, for. They were purchased by the city in September, 1S74. and were then tmited with the Public Gardens, which are just S. of Citadel Hill. MiUtary music is given here by the garrison bands during the summer. Xear the Gardens is the Convent of the Sacred Heart, a stately building situated in pleasant groimds. The Pix^testant Cemetet^ adioins the Horticulrural Gardens on the W., and contains a great num- ber of monuments. In the same quarter of the city, below Morris St., are the new Blind Asylum, the City Hospital, and the immense and stately buildini: of the Poor Asyltmi, lately completed at a cost of $260,000. The Government House is a short distance beyond St. ^Matthew's Church, on Pleasant St., and is the official residence of the Lieutenant- Governor of Xova Scotia. It is a plain and massive old stone building, w::h projecting wings, and is nearly surrounded by trees. Farther S , on 3I:rris St., is the Anglican Cathedral of St. Luke, a plain and homely wooden building. Beyond this point are the pretty wooden churches and villas which extend toward Point Pleasant. At the foot of South St. are the Ordnance Grounds, from whos^ -wharf the lower harbor i? overlooked. About l.SO«-"* ft. distant is Georse's Island, on -which is a po-s^erfiil modem fortress, 'beaxing a heavy armament from -svhioh unmense chilled- iron or steel-pointed shot could be hurled' agtunst a hostile fleet. This position is the kev to the harbor, and converges its fire vdzh that of Fort Carina, a low but massive easemated work. 1 M. S.~E. on the Dartmouth shore, -whose guns could sweep the Eastern Passage and the inner harbor. The passage from the outer har- bor is defended fcv the York Redoubt, near Sandwich Point, by a new line of bat- teries on the X. W. sh<^e of McNab's Island, and by the forts on Point Pleasant. At the comer of Prince and Barrington Sts. is St. Paul's Episcopal Church, a plain and spacious old building (built in 1750). with numerous mural tablets on the inner walls. Dalhousie Colkge and University is at the comer of Duke and BaiTiugton Sts.. and was fotmded by the Earl of Dalhousie while he was Governor-General of Canada. Its design was to HALIFAX. Route 19. 99 provide means for the liberal education of young men who did not wish to go (or Avere debarred from going) to King's College, at Windsor. There are 7 professors in the academic department, and the medical school has 13 professoi-s. In the summer of 1746 the great French Armada sailed from Brest to conquer the British North-American coast from Virginia to Newfoundland. It was commanded by the Duke d'Anville,aud was composed of the line-of-battle ships Trident, Ardent, Mars, and Alcide, 64 guns each ; the Nortlnmiherland , Carillon, Tigre, Leopard, and Rfiiionunce, GO guns each; the Diamant, 50; Megere, 30; Argonaute , 26 ; Prince d'' Orange , 2Q ; the Par/ait, Mercure, Palme, Girous, Perle, and 22 other frigates, with 30 transports, carrying an army of 3,150 soldiers. D'Anville's orders were to " occupy Louishourg, to reduce Nova Scotia, to destroy Boston, and ravage the coast of New England." The Armada was dispersed, however, by a succession of unparalleled and disastrous storms, and D'Anville reached Chebucto Bay (Halifax) on Sept. 10, with only 2 ships of the line and a few transports. Six days later the unfortunate Duke died of apoplexy, induced by grief and distress on account of the disasters which his enterprise had suffered. The Tice-Admiral D'Estournelle com- mitted suicide a few days later. Some other vesfcli now arrived here, and immense barracks were erected along the Bedford Basin. 1 ,'200 men had died from scurvy on the outward voyage, and the camps were soon turned into hospitals. Over 1,000 French soldiers and 2 - 300 Micmac Indians died around the Basin and were buried near its quiet waters. Oct. 13, the French fleet, numbering 5 ships of the line and 25 frigates and transports, sailed from Halifax, intending to attack Annapolis Royal; but another terrible storm arose, while the vessels were off Cape Sable, and scattered the remains of the Armada in such wide confusion that they were obliged to retire from the American waters. The Indians called Halifax harbor Chebucto, meaning "the chief haven," and the French named it La Baie Saine, "on account of the salubrity of the air." In the year 1748 the British Lords of Trade, incited by the people of Massachu- setts, determined to found a city on the coast of Nova Scot?' partly in prospect of commercial advantages, and partly to keep the Acadians in check. Parliament voted £40,000 for this purpose; and on June 21, 1749, a fleet of 13 transports and the sloop-of-w'ar Sphinx arrived in the designated harbor, bearing 2,370 colo- nists (of whom over 1,500 were men). The city was laid out in July, and was named in honor of George Montagu, Earl of Halifax, the head of the Lords of Trade. The Acadians and the Indians soon sent in their submission ; but in 1751 the suburb of Dartmouth was attacked at night by the latter, and many of its citizens were massacred. 500 Germans settled here in 1751-52, but it was found diiScult to preserve the col- ony, since so many of its citizens passed over to the New-England Provinces. The great fleets and armies of Loudon and Wolfe concentrated here before advancing against Louishourg and Quebec ; and the city afterwards grew in importance as a naval sta- tion. Representative government was established in 1758, and the Parliament of 1770 remained in session for 14 years, while Halifax was made one of the chief sta- tions whence the royal forces were directed upon the insurgent American colonies. After the close of the Revolutionary ^Yar, many thousands of exiled Loyalists took refuge here ; and the wooden walls and towers with which the city had been forti- fied were replaced with more formidable defences by Prince Edsvard. The ancient palisade-wall included the space between the present Salter, Barring- ton, and Jacob Streets, and the harbor ; and its citadel was the small Government House, on the site of the present Parliament Building, which was surrounded with hogsheads filled with sand, over which light cannons were displayed. The growth of Halifax during the present century has been very slow, in view of its great commercial advantages and possibilities. The presence of large bodies of troops, and the semi-military regime of a garrison-town, have had a certain effect in deadening the energy of the citizens. Great sums of money were, however, made here during the American civil war, when the sympathies of the Haligonians were •warmly enlisted in favor of the revolted States, and many blockade-runners sailed hence to reap rich harvests in the Southern ports. The cessation of the war put a stop to this lucrative trade ; but it is now hoped that the completion of the Inter- colonial Railway to St. John and Quebec will greatly benefit Hahfax. There is a rivalry between St. John and Halifax which resembles that between Chicago and St. Louis, and leads to similar journalistic tournaments. St. John claims that she has 100 F.outcCO. THE EXYIKOXS OF HALIFAX. a first-olaj^s hotel and a theatre, which Halifax has not ; and the Nova-Scotian citv answers, in rvtiirn,that she ha^ the bT0 WaUis w:\s born at Halifiix in 1791, and was early engaged in the great battle between the Chopatra, 32. and the French YiUf df An?an,"4;tv He atterwards served on the Curienx. the Gloire. and the Siiannon, to whose command he succeeded after the battle with the Chesapeake. 20. The Environs of Halifax. The favorite drive from H;\lifax is to the Four-JIilc House, and along the shores of the * Bedford Easin. This noble sheet of water is 5 ^l. long and 1-3 M. wide, with from S to 3G lathoms of depth. It is enteivd by way of the JVarrojrs, a passage 2A-3 M. long and ^ ]M. wide, leading from Halifax Harbor. It is bordered on all sides by bold hills 200 -SSO ft. in height, between which are 10 square miles of secnre anchoring-gromid. The A-iUage of Bedford is on the AV. shore, and has several summer hotels (. Belle vue, Bedford, etc.). The steamer Goliah leaves Halifax for Bedford at 11 A. M. and 2 p. m. daily. During the summer the light vessels of the Boyal Halifax Yacht Club are seen in the Basin daily : and exciting rowing- matches sometimes come otf near the Four-Mile House. Along the shores of the Bedford Basin were the mournful camps and horpitals cf the French Armada, in 174o, and 1,300 men were buried there. Their remaic-r. were found by subsequent settlers. The first permanent colonies along these shores were made by Massachusetts Loyalists in 17SA. I£::}7:n:cnJ's Piaiiis are 7 M. W. of Bedford, and were settled in 1S15 by slaves brouglit away from the shores of Mrjyland and Yirginia by the Eritisli fieet:. This is, like the other vfllages of freed blacks throughout the Province, dirty and dilnri- dated to the last degive. To the N. V.". is the Poctir acX- Lalx, 4. M. long, with di- versified shores, and abounding in trout. '* The road to Point Pleasant is a favorite promenade in the long Acadirai twilights. Midway between the cir\- and the Point lies 'Kissing Bridge,' which the Halifax maidens sometimes pass over. "Who gathers tell nobody knows, bu: — " Point Pleasant projects between the harbor and the X. Vr. Arm. r.nd is covered with pretty groves of evergreen trees, threaded by narroAv roads, and now being laid out for a public park. The principal fortification is Fori OffUcie. a gan-isoned post, whose artillerA- commands the channel. A short distance to the W. is the antiquated strucrure colled the Prince of Waks's Toicer, from which fine views are afibrded. The Point Pitasant Battery is near the water's edge, and is intended to sweep the outer passage. The Northwest Arm is 4 M. long and ^ M. wide, and is a river-like inlet, which nms X. \V. from the harbor to within 2 ^M. of the Bedford Basin. DARTMOUTH. Route 21. 101 Its shores are high and picturesque, and on the Halifax side are several fine mansions, surrounded by crnamental grounds. In the upper part of the Arm is Melville Island, where American prisoners were kept during the War of 1812. Ferguson's Cove is a picturesque village on the N. W. Arm, inhabited chicly by fishermen and pilots. The steamer Micmac makes regular trips during the summer up the N. W. Arm, and to McNab''s Island, which is 3 M. long, and has a sum- mer hotel and some heavy military works. The Micmac leaves the South Ferry Wharf at 10 A. M. and 12, and 2 and 3 p. m. Dartmouth {Acadian House) is situated on the harbor, opposite the city of Halifax, to which a steam ferry-boat makes frequent trips. It has sev- eral pretty villas belonging to Hahfax merchants ; and at about ^ M. from the village is the spacious and imposing building of the Mount Hope Asylum for the Insane, a long, castellated granite building which overlooks the harbor. Dartmouth has 4,358 inhabitants and 5 churches, and derives prosperity from the working of several foundries and steam-tanneries. It is also the seat of the Chebucto Marine Railway. This town was founded in 1750, but was soon afterwai'ds destroyed, with some of its people, by the Indians. In 1784 it was reoccupied by men of Nantucket who preferred royalism to republicanism. The Montague Gold-Mlnes are 4 M. from Dartmouth, and have yielded in paying quantities. Cow Bay is a few miles S. E. of Dartmouth, and is much visited in summer, on account of its fine marine scenery and the facilities for bathing. The Dartmouth LaJces com- mence within 1 M. of the town, and were formerly a favorite resort of sportsmen, but are now nearly fished out. 21. The Basin of Miu as.— Halifax to St. John. Halifax to Windsor, see Route 18 (in reverse). The steamer leaves Windsor every Wednesday at high, -water, touching at Parrs- boro', and thence running down the Bay to St. John. Ttie steamer leaves St. John (Keed's Point) every Tuesday evening at high -water, for Parrsboro' and Windsor. Fares, St. John to Parrsboro' or Windsor, ^3; to Londonderry, Maitland, or Halifax, $ 4. As the steamer moves out from her wharf at Windsor, a pleasant view is afforded of the old college town astern, with the farming village of Fal- mouth on the 1., and shipbuilding Newport on the r., beyond the mouth of the St. Croix River. The shores are high and ridgy, and the mouth of the Kennetcook River is passed (on the r.) about 5 M. below Windsor. 2-3 M. below is ffantsport (1. bank), a thriving marine village opposite the mouth of the Cockmigon River. On Horton Bluff (1. bank) is a hght- house which sustains a powerful fixed white light, visible for 20 M., and beyond this point the steamer enters the * Basin of Minas. On the 1. are the low ridges of Long Island and Boot Island, rising on the margin of a wide and verdant meadoAv. The meadov.' is Grand Pre, the land of Evangeline (see Route 22), Wile after mile the fertile plains of Cornwallis 102 Routed. CAPE BLOMIDON. open on the 1., bounded by the Horton hills and the dark line of the North Mt. In advance is the bold and clear-cut outline of Cape Blomidon, brooding over the water, and on the r. are the Ioav but well-defined bluffs of Chivirie, rich in gypsum and limestone. It is about 22 M. from the mouth of the Avon to Parrsboro', and the course of the steamer continu- ally approaches Blomidon. Cape Blomidon is a vast precipice of red sandstone of the Triassic era, with strong marks of volcanic action. " The dark basaltic wall, covered with thick ■woods, the terrace of amygdaloid, with a luxuriant growth of light-green shrubs and young trees that rapidly spring up on its rich and moist surface, the precipice of bright red sandstone, always clean and fresh, and contrasting strongly with the trap above, .... constitute a combination of forms and colors equally striking, if seen in the distance from the hills of Hoi ton or Parrsboro', or more nearly from the sea or the stony beach at its base. I lomidon is a scene never to be forgotten by a traveller who has wandered a^-ound its shores or clambered on its giddy preci- pices." The cape is about 570 ft. high, and presents an interesting sight when its dark-red summit is peering above the white sea-fogs. Sir William Lyell, the emi- nent British geologist, made a careful study of the phenomena of this vicinity. The Indian legend says that Blomidon was made hy the divine Glooscap, who broke the great beaver-dam off this shore and swung its end around into its present position. Afterwards he crossed to the nev-made cape and strewed its slopes with the gems that are found there to-day, carrying tLcnce a set of rare ornaments for his ancient and mysterious female companion. The beneficent chief broke away the beaver-dam because it was flooding all the Corn\ ; ^"is Valley, and in his conflict with the Great Beaver he threw at him huge masses of rock and earth, which are the present Five Islands. W. of Utkogunrheech (Blomidon) the end of the dam swept around and became Fleegim (Cape Spht). As Blomidon is left on the port beam, the steamer hurries across the rapid currents of the outlet of the Basin. In front is seen the white vil- lage of Parrsboro', backed by the dark undulations of the Cobequid Mts. Just before reaching Parrsboro' the vessel approaches and passes Par- tridge Island (on the 1.), a singular insulated hill 250 ft. high, and con- nected with the mainland at low tide by a narrow beach. Partridge Island was the Pidowech Munegoo of the Micmacs, and was a favorite location for legends of Glooscap. On his last great journey from Newfoundland by Pictou through -Acadia and into the unknown West, he l^uilt a grand road from Fort Cumberland to this shore for the use of his weary companions. This miracu- lously formed ridge is now occupied by the post-road to the N. W., and is called by the Indians Oivwokun (the causeway). At Partridge Island Glooscap had his cel- ebrated revel with the supernatural Kit-poos-e-ag-unow, the deliverer of all op- pressed, who was taken out alive from his mother (slain by a giant), was" thrown into a well, and, being miraculously preserved there, came forth in due time to fulfil his high duty to men. These marvellous friends went out on the Basin in a stone canoe to fish by torchlight, and, after cruising over the dark waters for some time, speared a monstrous whale. They tossed him into the canoe "as though he were a trout," and made for the shore, where, in their brotherly feast, the whale was en- tirely devoured. Parrsboro' (two inns) is prettily situated at the mouth of a small river, and under the shelter of Partridge Island. It has about 900 inhabitants, with three churches, and is engaged in the lumber-trade. The beauty of the situation and the views, together with the sporting facilities in the back-country, have made Parrsboro' a pleasure resort of considerable re- pute, and the neat hotel called the Summer House is well patronized. This is one of the best points from which to enter the fine hunting and fishing PARRSBORO'. Route 21. 103 districts of Cumberland County, and guides and outfits may be secured here. Amlierst (see page 78) is 36 M. distant, by highways following the valleys of the Parrsboro' and Maccau Rivers. "Parrsboro' enjoys more than its share of broad, gravelly beach, overhung -with clifted and woody bluffs. One fresh from the dead walls of a great city would be de- lighted with the sylvan shores of Parrsboro'. The beach, with all its breadth a miracle of pebbly beauty, slants steeply to the surf, which is now rolling up in curl- ing clouds of green and white. Here we turn westward into the great bay itself going with a tide that rushes like a mighty river toward a cataract, whirling boil- ing, breaking in half-moons of crispy foam." (L.L.Noble.) ' " Pleasant Parrsboro', with its green hills, neat cottages, and sloping shores laved by the ?ea when the tide is full, but wearing quite a different aspect when the tide goes out ; for then it is left perched thirty feet high upon a red clay bluff, and the fishing-boats which were afloat before are careened upon their beam ends, high and dry out of Avater. The long massive pier at which the steamboat lately landed, lifts up its naked bulk of tree-nailed logs, reeking with green ooze and sea-weed ; and a high conical island which constitutes the chief feature of tho landscape is trans- formed into a bold promontory, connected with the mainland by a huge ridge of brick-red clay." (Hallock.) Gentlemen who are interested in geological studies will have a rare chance to make collections about Parrsboro' and the shores of Minas. The most favorable time is when the bluffs have been cracked and scaled by recent frosts ; or just after the close of the winter, when much fresh debris is found at the foot of the cliffs. Among the minerals on Partridge Island are: analcime, apophyllite, amethyst, agate, apatite, caleite (abundant, in yellow crystals), chabazite, chalcedony, cat's-eye, gypsum, hematite, heulandite, magnetite, stilbite (very abundant), jasper, cacholong, opal, semi-opal, and gold-bearing quartz. About Cape Blomidon are found analcime, agate,_ amethyst, _apophyllite._ caleite, chalcedony, chabazite-gmelinite, faroelite, hematite, magnetite, heulandite, laumonite, fibrous gypsum, malachite, mesolite, native copper, natrohte, stilbite, psilomelane, and quartz. Obsidian, malachite, gold, and copper are found at Cape d'Or ; jasper and fine quartz crystals, on Spencer's Island ; augite, amianthus, pyrites, and wad, at Parrsboro' ; and both at Five Islands and Scotsman's Bay there are beautiful specimens of moss agate. At Cornwallis is found the rare mineral called Wichtisite (resembhng obsidian, in gray and deep blue colors), which is only known in one other place on earth, at Wichtis, in Fin- land. The purple and violet quartz, or amethyst, of the Minas shores, is of great beauty and value. A BlomJdon amethyst is in the crown of France, and it is now 270 years since the Sieur de Monts carried several large amethysts from Partridge Island to Henri IV. of France. These gems *are generally found in geodes, or after fresh falls of trap-rock. Advocate Harbor and Cape cZ' Or. A bi-weekly stage runs W. from Parrsboro' through grand coast scenery, for 28 M., passing the hamlets of Fox Harbor and Port Greville, and stop- ping at Advocate Harbor. This is a sequestered marine hamlet, devoted to shipbuilding and the deep-sea fisheries, and has about 600 inhabitants. It is about 60 M. from Amherst, by a road leading across the Cobequid Mts. and through Apple River (see page 80). Some of the finest marine scenery in the Provinces is in this vicinity. 3-4 M. S. is the immense rocky peninsula of * Cape d'Or, almost cut off from the mainland by a deep ravine, in whose bottom the salt tides flow. Cape d'Or is 500 ft. high, and has recently become noted for its rich copper deposits. Off" this point there is a heavy rip on the flood-tide, which flows with a velocity of 6 knots an hour, and rises 33 - 39 ft. 8 M. W. of Advocate Harbor, and visible across lOi R:::^ 2L BASIX OF MIXAS. tie :ren bav, is * Cape CMgneeto. a wonderftd headland of rock. 730 - SOO ft. higb, mnning down sheer inro the deep waters. This moiintain-prom- ontoiy marks the diTision of the currents of the ^linas and Chignecto Channels. Cape d'Or is sometimes called Cap Dori on the ancient maps, and received its name on account of the copper ore which -wus found here hj the earlv French ex- ploras, and ^ra5 supposed to he goM. The Acadians afterwards opened mines here, and the name. L£S iEn(s. originaily applied to a r-art cf this shore, was given to the noble salt-warer lake to the^E. 3l!::a^ is either an English modification or the Spanish equi-raient thereof Cape dOr was granrel to the Duke of Chandos many jeais ago, but he did not continue the mining operations. After leaving Parrsboro' the sreamer runs "VT. through the passage be- tween Cape Blomidon and Cape Sharp, which is 3.^ M. wide, and is swept by the tide at the rate of 6-8 knots an hour. On the r. the ravines of Diligent Eiver and Fox Eiver break the iron-bound coasts of Cumberland Countv; and on the 1. is a remarkable promonton.-. 7 M. long and 1 ^f. wide, with an altitude of 400 feet, mnning W. from Blomidon between the channel and the semicircular bight of Scotsman's Bay. Cape Split is the end of this sea-dividing mountain, beyond which the S. shores fall suddenly away, and the steamer enters the Minas Channel. 12 31. beyond Cape Split, Spencer's Island and Cape Spencer are passed on the X., beyond which are the massive cliffs of Cape d'Or. On the 1. are the unvarying ridges of the Xorth Mt., with obscure fishiog-hamlets along the shore. To the X. the frowning mass of Cape Chicnecto is seen; and the course passes within sight of the lofty and lonely rock of Isle Haute, which is 7 M. from the nearest shore. It is Ih ^I. long and 350 ft. high, and is exactly intersected by the parallel of 65' W. from Greenwich. The steamer now passes down over the open waters of the Bay of Fundy. St. John is about 62 nautical milesfrom Isle Haute, in a straight line, and is a little X. of W. fix)m that point, but the exigencies of navigation re- quire a course considerably longer and more southerly. This portion of the route is usually traversed at night, and scon after passing the p>owerful first-class red revolving-light on Cape Spencer {'Se-^ Brunswick), the steamer runs in by the Partridge-Island light, and enters the harbor of St. John about the break, of day. St. John, see page 15. The Basin of Minas. The steamer WiUiam Strcud leaves Parrsboro" several times weekly, for the vil- lages on the > . and E. shores of the Ba^in of Minas. As the times of her departure are very irregular, owing to the necessity of following the tide , and her landings vary according to circimistances, the foiiowing account relates to the line of the coast rather tnan to her i^ate. She is announced to call at Parrsboro", Londonderry, ilaitland, Kingsport, Summerville, and Windsor. Soon after leaving Parrsboro', Frazers Head is passed on the 1., with its chffs elevated nearlv 400 feet above the water. About 15 31. E. of EASIX OF MIXAS. Route 21. 105 Parrsboro' are the remarkable insulated peaks of the *Five Islands, the chief of which is 350 ft. high, rising from the -waters of the Basin. On the adjacent shore is the village of Five Islands, occupying a very picturesque position, and containing 600 inhabitants. In this vicinity are found iron, copper, and plumbago, and wliite-lead is extracted in considerable quan- tities from minerals mined among the hills. Marble was formerly produced here, but the quarries are now abandoned. The massive ridge variously known as Mt. Gerrish, St. Peters Mt., and Red Head, looms over the vil- lage to a height of 500 ft., having a singularly bold and alpine character for so small an elevation. On its lower slopes are found pockets containing fine barytes, of which large quantities are sent to the United States. A mass of over 150 pounds' weight was sent from this place to the Paris Ex- position of 1867. A few miles W. of the village are the falls on the North River, which are 90 ft. high ; and to the N. is the wild and picturesque scenery of the Cobequid Mts. Five Islands may be visited by the road from Parrsboro' (16-18 M.), which also passes near the Xorth River Falls. The mDst direct route to the ^-illage is by the mail-stage from Debert station, on the Intercolonial Railway (see page 80). " Before them lay the outlines of Fire Islands, rising beautifully out of the water between them and the mainland The two more distant were rounded and well wooded ; the third, which was midway among the group, had lofty, precipitous sides, and the summit was dome-shaped; the fourth was like a table, rising with perpendicular sides to the height of 200 ft., with a flat, level surface aboTC, which was all overgrown with forest trees. The last, and ne;irest of the group, was by far the most singular. It was a bare rock which rose irregularly from the sea, termi- nating at one end in a peak which rose about 200 ft. in the air It resembled, more than anything else, a vast cathedral rising out of the sea, the chief mass of the rock corresponding with the main part of the cathedral, while the tower and spire were there in all their majesty. For this cause the rock has received the name of Pinnacle Island At its base they saw the white foam of breaking surf: while far on high around its lofty, tempest-beaten summit, they saw myriads of sea-gulls. Gathering in great white clouds about this place, they sported and chased one an- other ; they screamed and uttered their shrill yells, which sounded afar over the sea." (DeJIclle.) 10 M. beyond these islands the steamer passes the lofty and far-pi'oject- ing peninsula oi Economy'^ Point, and enters the Cobequid Bay (which ascends to Truro, a distance of 36 M.). After touching at Londonderry, on the N. shore, the steamer crosses the bay to Maitlcnid (two inns), a busy and prosperous shipbuilding village at the mouth of the Shubenacadie River (see page 82). The S. shore of the Basin of Minas is lined with bluffs 100-180 ft. high, but is far less imposing than the N. shore. Noel is about 15 il. W. of Maitland, and is situated on a pretty little bay between Noel Head and Burnt-Coat Head. It has 300 inhabitants, and produces the mineral called terra alba, used in bleaching cottons. It is not found elsewhere in Amer- ica. After leaving Noel Bay and passing the lighthouse on Burnt-Coat 1 Economy is dei-ired from the Indian name Kenomee, which was applied to the same place, and means " Sandy Point." 5 * 106 Route 21. BASIN OF MINA3. Head, the trend of the coast is followed to the S. W. for about 20 !M. to Walt07i, a vilhige of 600 inhabitants, at the mouth of the La Tete River. ;Manv thousand tons of gypsum and plaster of Paris (calcined gypsum) are annually shipped from this port to the United States. Immense quantities ai*e exported also from the coasts of Chivirie, which extend from Walton S. W. to the mouth of the Avon Eiver. The whole back countr}' is com- posed of limestone soil and gypsum-beds, whose mining and shipment form an industry of increasing importance. Beyond the Chivirie coast the steamer ascends the Avon River to Windsor. The Basin of Minas was the favorite home of Glooscap, the Hiawatha of the Mic- macs, ■\yhofo traditions describe him as an envoy from the Great Spirit, who had the form and habits of humanity, but was exalted above all peril and sickness and death. He dwelt apart and above, in a great wigwam, and was attended by an old woman and a beautiful youth, and " was never verj- far from anj' one of them," who re- ceived his counsels. His power was unbounded and supernatural, and was wielded against the enchantments of the magicians, while his wisdom taught the Indians how to hunt and fish, to heal diseases, and to build wigwams and canoes. He named the constellations in the heavens, and many of the chief points on the Acadian shores. The Basin of Minas was his beaver-pond ; Cape Split was the bulwark of the dam ; and Spencer's Island is his overturned kettle. He controlled the ele- ments, and by his magic wand led the caribou and the bear to his throne. The allied powers of evil advanced with immense hosts to overthrow his great wigwam and break his power ; but he extinguished their camp-fires by night and summoned the spirits of the frost, by whose endeavors the land was visited by an intense cold, and the hostile armies were frozen in the forest. On the approach of the English he turned his huge hunting-dogs into stone and then passed away ; but will return again, right Spencer's Island, call the dogs to life, and once more dispense his royal hospitality on the Minas shores. " Now the ways of beasts and men waxed evil, and they greatly vexed Glooscap, and at length he could no longer endure them ; and he made arich feast by the shore of the great lake (Minasl All the beasts came to it ; and Avhen the feast was over, he got into a big canoe, he and his uncle, the Great Turtle, and they went away over the big lake, and the beasts looked after them till they saw them no more. And after they ceased to see them, they still heard their voices as they sang, but the sounds grew tainter and fainter in the distance, and at last they wholly died away ; and then deep silence fell on them all, and a great marvel came to pass, and the beasts who had till now spoken but one language no longer were able to understand each other, and they all fled away, each his own way, and never again have they met together in council. Until the day when Glooscap shall return to restore the Golden Age, and make men and animals dwell once more together in amity and peace, all Nature mourns. The tradition states that on his departure from Acadia the great snowy owl retired to the deep forests to return no more until he could come to welcome Glooscap ; and in those sylvan depths tlie owls, even yet, repeat to the night, ' Koo koo skoos I Koo koo skoos I ' which is to say, in the In- dian tongue, ' 0, I am sorry I 0, I am sorry ! ■ And the loons, who had been the huntsmen of Glooscap, go restlessly up and down through the world, seeking vainly for their master, whom they cannot find, and wailing sadly because they find him not." l*il«S'f*^ 1 THE BlSrV OF MINAS THE OLD ACADIAN LAND mmmm ..\yi^^ of j^ rXj^/- THE LAND OF EVANGELINE. Route 22. 107 22. The Land of Evangeline. This beautiful and deeply interesting district is visited with the greatest ease from the academic town of Wolfville ( Village Hotel; Acadia Hotel), which is 127 M. from St. John and 63 M. from Halifax (by Route 18). This quiet settlement is situated on the Cornwallis River, and is engaged in shipbuilding and farming. It has 800 inhabitants, four churches, a ladies' seminary, and the Hoi'ton Academy (4 teachers, 60 students). The Acadia College is a Baptist institution, with 5 professors, 40 students, and 150 alumni (in 18 years of existence). The college buildings occupy a fine situation on a hill which overlooks " those meadows on the Basin of Mioas which Mr. Longfellow has made more sadly poetical than any other spot on the Western Continent." The * view from the belfry of the college is the most beautiful in this vicinity, or even, perhaps, in the Maritime Provinces. Far across the Cornwallis Valley to the N. is the North Mt., which terminates, 15 M. away (21 M. by road), in the majestic bluff of Cape Blomidon, di-opping into the Basin of Minas, whose bright Avaters occupy a broad section of the field of vision. (See Route 21, for Cape Blomidon and the Indian traditions of the Basin of Minas.) To the N. E. is the "great meadow" Avhich gave name and site to the village of Grand Prd. . A good road leads E. (ha 3 M.) from Wolfville to Lower Horton, a scat- tered hamlet among the hills. By passing down from this point to the meadows just beyond the railway-station .of Grand Pre, the traveller reaches the site of the ancient village. Standing on the platform of the station, he sees a large tree at the comer of the field on the left front. Near that point are the faint remains of the foundations of the Acadian church. The tradition of the country-side claims that the aged willow- tree near by grows on the site of the shop of Basil the Blacksmith, and that cinders have been dug up at its foot. The destruction effected by the British troops was complete, and there are now no relics of the an- cient settlement, except the gnarled and knotty trees of the orchards, the lines of willows along the old roads, and the sunken hollows which indi- cate the sites of former cellars. Near the shore is shown the place where the exiles were put on shipboard. A road leads across the rich diked marsh in 2-3 M. to Long Island, a slight elevation fronting on the Basin of Minas, and on which dwells a farming population of about 120 persons. To the N. E. is the mouth of the Gaspereaux River, and on the W. the Cornwallis River is discharged. The early Acadians reclaimed these rich meadows from the sweep of the tides by building light dikes to turn the water. There were 2,100 acres of this gained land in their Grand Pre, but the successive advancing of other lines of aggression has driven back the sea from a much larger area, all of which is very productive and val- uable. In 1810 the broad meadow between Grand Pr6 and Wolfville was enclosed by new dikes and added to the reclaimed domain. 102 lioutcCl. CAPE BLOMIDON. open on the 1., bounded by the Horton hills nnd the dark line of the North Mt. In advance is the bold and clear-out outline of Cape Blomidon, brooding; over the Avater, and on the r. are the low but -vvell-defined blutl's of Chiriric, rich in gypsum and limestone. It is about 22 ^l. from the mouth of the Avon to Parrsboro', and the course of the steamer continu- ally approaches Blomidon. Cape Blomidon is a vast precipice of nnl ?aiul!>toiio of the Triassic era, with gtvouii- marks of volcauic action. " The dark Vasaltio wall, covorod with thick voods, the terrace of aiuyirdaloid. with a luxuriant growth of light-given shrubs and yoviug trees that rapidly spring up on its rich and moist surf;ice. the precipice of bright red sandstone, always clean and fivsh, and contrasting strongly with the trap above, .... constitute a combination of forms and colors equally striking, if seen in the distance from the hills of lloiion or Parrsboro", or more nearly from the sea or the stony beach at its base. 1 lomidon is a scene never to be foi-gotteu by a traveller who has waudeiwl a'ouud its shores or ckunVered on its giddy preci- pices."' The cape is about oTO ft. high, and pirsents an interesting sight when its dark-ivtl summit is pctning above the white sea-fogs. Sir William Lyell, the emi- nent British geologist, made a careful study of the phenomena of this vicinity. The Indian legend says that BKniidouVas made by the divine Olooscap, -who Invke the great beavcr-dam olf this ^hol•o and swung its end around iuto its present position. Afterwards he crossed to the nev -made cape and strewed its slopes with the gems that are found there lo-day, cari-ying tl.cnce a set of rare ornaments for his imcient and mysterious female companion. The ber.cficent chief broke away the beaver-daui because it was flooding all the Conn ^ 'is Valley, and in his conflict with tlie Great Beaver he threw at him huge massc^ of rock and earth, which are the present Five Islands. W. of rtkogmtr/ifech (Blomidon) the cud of the dam swept around and lKX\inie Fltcsun (Cape Split). As Blomidon is left on the port beam, the steamer hurries across the rapid currents of the outlet of the Basin. In front is seen the white vil- lage of Parrsboro', backed by the dai-k undulations of the Cobequid ^Its. Just befoi-e reaching Parrsboro' the vessel approaches and passes Far- indpe Islam^ (on the 1.), a singular insulated hill 250 ft. high, and con- nected with the mainland at low tide by a narrow beach. Partridge Island was the Piiloiccch Miiiics:ofl of the Micmacs, and wjis a favoi-ite location for legends of Glooscap. On his last great journey from Newfoundland by Pictou through -Acadia and into the unknown West, he linilt a grand road from Fort Cumberland to this shore for the use of his weary companions. This mii-acu- lously t\>rmed ridge is now occupied by the post-rtvtd to the >.". W., and is called by the Indians Oicwok-i/n (^the causeway). At Partridge Island C.looscap had his cel- ebrated ivvel with the sujun-natural Kit-poos-e-^\g-unow, the dehvei-er of all op- pressed, who was taken out alive from his mother (slain by a giants, was* thrown iuto a well, and, being miraculouslv preserved there, came forth in due time to fulfil his high duty to ment These marvellous friends went out on the Basin in a stone canoe to fish by torchlight, and, after cruising over the dark watci-s for some time, spearoii a monstrous whale. They tossed him iuto the canoe " as though he were a tixnit,"' atid made for the shore, where, in tJieir brotherly feast, the whale was en- tirely devoured. Parrsboro' (tAvo iims) is prettily situated at the month of a small river, and under the shelter of Partridge Island. It has about 900 inhabitants, with three churches, and is engaged in the lumber-trade. The beauty of the situation and the views, together with the sporting facilities in the back-country, have made Parrsboro' a pleasure resort of considerable re- pute, and the neat hotel called the Summer House is well patronized. This is one of the best points from which to enter tlio fine hunting and iishing PARRSBORO'. Route 21. 103 districts of Cumberland County, and guides and outfits may be secured here. Amherst (see page 78) is 36 M. distant, by highways following the valleys of the Parrsboro' and Maccau Rivers. " Parrsboro' enjoys more than its share of broad, gravelly beach, overhung with cliftcd and woody bluffs. One fresh froai the dead walls of a great city would be de- hghted with the sylvan shores of Parrsboro'. The beach, with all its breadth, a miracle of pebbly beauty, slants steeply to the surf, which is now roUing up in curl- ing clouds of green and white. Here we turn westward into the great bay itself going with a tide that rushes like a mighty river toward a cataract, whirling, boil- ing, breaking in half-moons of crispy foam." (L. L. Noble.) " Pleasant Parrsboro', with its green hills, neat cottages, and sloping shores laved by the sea when the tide is full, but wearing quite a difterent aspect when the tide goes out ; for then it is left perched thirty feet liigh upon a red clay bluff, and the fishing-boats which were afloat before are careened upon their beam ends, high and dry out of water. The long massive pier at which the steamboat lately landed, lifts up its naked bulk of tree-nailed logs, reeking with green ooze and sea-weed ; and a high conical island which constitutes the chief feature of the landscape is trans- formed into a bold promontory, connected with the mainland by a huge ridge of brick-red clay." (H.vllock.) Gentlemen who are interested in geological studies will have a rare chance to make collections about Parrsboro' and the shores of Minas. The most favorable time is when the bluffs have been cracked and scaled by recent frosts ; or just after the close of the winter, when much fresh debris is found at the foot of the cliffs. Among the minerals on Partridge Island are: analcime, apophyllite, amethyst, agate, apatite, calcitc (abundant, in yellow crystals), chabazite, chalcedony, cat's-eye, gypsum, hematite, heulandite, magnetite, stilbite (very abundant), jasper, cacholong, opal, semi-opal, and gold-bearing quartz. About Cape Blomidon are found analcime, agate, amethyst, apophyllite. calcite, chalcedony, chabazite-gmelinite, faroelite, hematite, magnetite, heulandite, l:iumonite, fibrous gypsum, malachite, mesolite, native copper, natrolite, stilbite, psilomelane, and quartz. Obsidian, malachite, gold, and copper are found at Cape d'Or ; jasper and fine quartz crystals, on Spencer's Island ; augite, amianthus, pyrites, and wad, at Parrsboro' ; and both at Five Islands and Scotsman's Bay there are beautiful specimens of moss agate. At Cornwallis is found the rare mineral called Wichtisite (resembling obsidian, in gray and deep blue colors), which is only known in one other place on earth, at Wichtis, in Fin- land. The purple and violet quartz, or amethyst, of the Minas shores, is of great beauty and value. A Blomidon amethyst is in the crown of France, and it is now 270 years since the Sieur de Monts carried several large amethysts from Partridge Island to Henri IV. of France. These gems are generally found in geodes, or after fresh falls of trap-rock. Advocate. Harbor and Cape d' Or. A bi-weekly stage runs W. from Parrsboro' through grand coast scenery, for 28 M., passing the hamlets of Fox Harbor and Port Greville, and stop- ping at Advocate Harbor. This is a sequestered marine hamlet, devoted to shipbuilding and the deep-sea fisheries, and has about 600 inhabitants. It is about 60 M. from Amherst, by a road leading across the Cobequid Mts. and through Apple River (see page 80). Some of the finest marine scenery in the Provinces is in tliis vicinity. 3-4 M. S. is the immense rocky peninsula of * Cape d'Or, almost cut off from the mainland by a deep ravine, in whose bottom the salt tides flow. Cape d'Or is 500 ft. high, and has recently become noted for its rich copper deposits. Off this point there is a heavy rip on the flood-tide, which flows with a velocity of 6 knots an hour, and rises 33-39 ft. 8 M. W. of Advocate Harbor, and visible across 110 RoidefS. GKAXD PER Sdenmly down the street came the parish priest, ard the children Paused, in their play to kiss the hand he. extended to bless them. Rererend "walked he among them : and up rose matrons and maidens, Hailing his slow approach Vith vorvis of affectionate Trelcome. Then came the lalwrers home from the field, and serenely the sun sank Down to his rest, and r«ilight preyaiied. Anon from the tjelfry SofUy the Angeltis sounded, an 1 CTcr the rocfe of the Tillage Columns of pale blue smoke, like clouds of incense ascending. Rose from a hundre-l hearths, the homes of peace and contentment. Thus dwelt tc^ther in love these simple Acadian farmers, — Dwelt in the love of Goenediction upon her. When she had passed, it seemed like the ceasing of exqtiisite music.'' After a beautiful description of the peaceful social life of the Acadian.^, and the betrothal of Evangeline, the poet teUs of the arrival of the English fleet, the convocation of the people, the roval mandate, the destruction of Grand Pre. and the weary exUe of the villagers. " So passed the morning away. And lo I with a stimmons sonorotis Sounded the bell from its tower, and over the meadow a drum beat. Thronzed erelong was the chureh with men. Without, in the churchyard, Waited the women. They stood by the graves, and hung on the headstones Garlands of autumn-leaves and evergreens fresh from the forest. Then c^me the guarake fi^m the steps of the altar. Holding aloft in his hands, with its seals, the royal commission. ' Ye are convened this day," he said. ' by his ^lajesty"s orders. Clement and kind has he been : but how have you answered his kindnesa, Let your own hearts reply : To my natural make and my temper Painful the task is I do. which to you I know must be grievous. Yet must I bow and oL>ey, and deliver the will of our monarch ; Namely, that all your lands, and dwellings, and cattle of aU kinds Forfeited be to the crown ; and that you jourselves from this province Be transporte