TS 967 .M78 Copy 1 THE GLEANINGS — OF— BT H. MONTGOMERY^ \I?1RU fst, 1879. COPYRIGHT 1883 By H. Montgomery, East Saginaw, Michigan* '' \ THE GLEANINGS —OF— T-A.3srnsri2sra- — BY— {/ H. MONTGOMERY. M:^RCH Ut, ]879. 1^ Argus Print, Chesaning, Mich. ,> ^ i? t j » A> m MEG Em mmi. mmi mum, First put the hides into the pool (a vat of water), soak from twelve to ihirtj-fiix hours, according to the dry spots and blood in the hides, then take out and split up the back, then take them on the tanner's beam and flesh off all the superfluous flesh, pnd if soaked enough are ready for the lime. Take eighty lbs. of lime and run it ofl' in a vat of water, plnrge it up good and put in sixty sides, handle every day 80 they will lime even, after they have been in twenty-four hours slack forty lbs. of lime to strengthen them up'with, and after they have been in forty eight hours strengthen them up again. It takes from five to eight days to lime, ac- cording to the weight of the hide. I generally leave tliem in eight days, as I find I can make better leather than to lime them any quicker. When the hair slips easy take them on the tanner's beam and unhair them, put them into the hide wheel and wash them thoroughly by letting clear water run into them. Now they are ready for the bait. THE BAIT. Take two and one-half bushels of heD manure and soak it, put it into a vat. If you can put stoam into the vat to warm it up do 80, and if ycu can they will be ready to work in twelve hoars. If not, it will take longer, from twenty-four to thirty-six hoars, according to the weather. If j^ou have no wheel to wheel them, they will have to be taken out and stoned thoroughly. Then they will have to be worked twice over the tanner's beam, so they will be all clean and clear for the liquor. That is one stoning and two good workings. TO COLOR THE HIDES. Suspend the hides on sticks and let them hang down in the liquor, take a slat eight feet long (the length of the vat), one inch thick and four inches wide, take four copper naii« and an old flat file (as it is belter than a hannner for thi-* business), start at the roots of the tail to drive the first nail, then the other three equal distances apart, ihe wholw length of the back, next prepare the I'qaor for color, for the first liquor a vat two thirds full of water, take fifty lbs. of Japonica and melt it by steam, take one pail of Pyroligneoun Acid and put into this vat, one pail of t*alt and sixty lbs. ol oak bark, take an oil barrel and make a leach out of ir, take an auger and bore a hole near the bottom of the barrel so that when the bark is leached you can draw the plug out and let the liquor run in the vat, then put in one puil (»f rye flour, melt and strengthen with twenty-five lbs. of Japonica ever^ other day on the ha» g for 8 or 10 dayH,then lake il»f ni off itie hang and handle and Htrengthen them every ihird da}. Tniw will tan heavy barresa leather in forty dayn. When lainiud take them up and skive them, then take them on ihe curr^- iug table and scour th« m on both hiden with ihe stone acd ^licker, then hang up to saming, when samied take down a>.tJ temper for Htuffing, net the grain side firt^t and oil it, ihen turn it over and set it on the flesh side wiih a flicker, itjen take your stuffiing and stuff it, put the stuffing on one third aft thick as «vhat the leather is and hang u,» to dry. When dry they are ready to black on the grain, f write this as an explanation for new beginners. It is not necessary to writ© all this for men that work at the tanning business. The leather is now ready for sigging. Take a sig brush and appl> the sig to the leather on the grain side till thoroughly sigged and grease all cut su as to be ready for blacking, then apply the grain blacking with a brush. When struck in. oil it to set the blacjk. Pack on the floor grain to grain till yon put down a daj*a work ready for setting, then lake the boltoro sides first and commence to set, put it on the table and rub with a hard piece of tallow, then stone it over with a fine stone, then slick it over hard with a heavy slicker, then have a pan of two-thirds tallow and one-third oil, hot, give them a coat of that and hang them up to dry. When dry they are ready for finishing. TO FINISH. Take them down and slick them on the flesh side first, then clean your table good and slick them off with a ^mooth slicker on the grain side, then b»'U8h them with a good stiff scouring brush and wipe them off with a woolen cloth or a piece of oakum, then they are finished. Tan Upper and Calf the same way, and it will look like oak-tanned leather, as one lb. ot Dark to each side of leather colors it like oak. This bark can be bought already ground in sacks at the wholesale druggists for 2^ or 3 cents per lb. To finish calf skins and upper it will be necessary to hire a practical currier until you get an insight of the busiuess for a few days. 'J^he above is merely an introduction for tanning without bark in the Western States or Territories. I have used it with success, making harness leather that sold for 42 cents per lb., and gave good satisfaction. TO MAKE STUFFING. Melt 5"0ur tallow over a hIhw fire, have it cool enough to bold the hand in it, tberi add as much -jil as there is tallow, if tie tallow is g^od; if not, less oil. In winter more oii than in summer. Slir till it is cool. TO MAKE SIG. Take five lbs, cf Sal Soda, melt and put into a barrel of soft waltr, pal in l^o^wuod ehips onoigh to make a good strong color ^^ hen lieutel up, lake u sig brush a,n(J apply- i\\'\^ Lo ihH leMihfT or» Jhograiii till ihoroughly 8iggew read^ tor tanniriiJ:, and will tan ill from 12 to 24 hours, aeeoiding to strength and handlifig. You can tau anything with it, even to the (dioic -st of furs. This may seem simpie, but it fealiy cannot be beaten. It is called the ''Father of all Tans." It id'\^hat the famous Piiilbrook parks are tanned with, and they are called the best pack known. We are the originators of this tan and tanned it for Phil- brooks when he first started bis pack business m Racine, Wis. It is the best tan known for what it is recommended to tan, aa there is no acid in it. TJ TAN FURS OR SKINS 07 ANT KIND. Fjr six small skins: 1-4 lb, sulphate soda, 3 oz. sulphate poLash, 1-4 lb. alum, 1-4 lb, sulphur, \ lb. salt. For eigLt sheep skiLS or one robe double the amount. 7 COLOR THE ^WOOL ON SHEEP SKINS RED. Dissolve one ounce of solferine in one-half pint of alcohol. Put this iu six pails of hot water. This will color the wool OD sixteen skins. PROCESS FOR TANNING LACE LEATHER. After your hides or skins have been made perfectly soft or pliant by soaking or milling, they are ready for the lime, the lime to be made in equal quantities of wood a-^hts and fresh burned lime, or potash dissolved in wat- r so as to muke a lye of the same strength wood ashes would make. H-ij*>i>3 daily until the hair comes cff freely, say 2 bushels lime auu 6 lbs. of potash. By warming your lime, not over milk warm, the hair will come off sooner, and not require much beating. They are then unhaired, rinsed and ready for the bate or grainer, the bate to be made of hen or pigjeon man- ure. The latter is the strongest. After being properly worked and rinsed in tresh water, the}^ are ready for the handler. For 20 hides or kips use the liquor made from any kind of oak bark, or l-t lbs. Terra Japonica (cutch), or lO lbs. extract hemlock as your coloring or tanning material, either of them to be dissolved in hot bark liquor or hot water. Then dissolve the following chemicals id hot water separately, viz.: 4 lbs. sulphate •Roda (Glanber salts), 1 lb. sulphate polayh, 2 lbs. alum, 1 lb. sulphur, 12 lbs. common salt. Mix your chemical and liquids for tanning, and it is ready for operation. Handle well. Keep your stock moving for two hours, and you will soon perceive how readily your stock will color and imbibe the tanning principle Then skive and shave them, then prepare another fiint quality liquor, add the same amount of chemicals and proceed as before for two hours longer, then slick them off lightly, leaving all the tanning in. When in o»^der, si uff thorn heavy on the flesh side. When dry, slick ott" the stiiffiing and tal- low them lightly on the grain, setting it well in, tallowing the^ame as the grain, only apply more anl set it well in. By pursuing this course it makes a superior urticle lo any thing that has been manufactured by anv niher process, and cheaper and manufactured with less woik TO DTE FURS BLACK, Take a pure solution of lunar costic (nitrate of silver) •. nd apply it to the dry fur with a fine ivoi) hnr e or ^'Vdoijen comb, and let it dry gradually in the air. Bo eareful fiot to let the costic touch the leather or get upon your finijjers. PROCESS FOR TANNING. After your hide(S or sifins have been niade p rfHctly soft or pliant by soaking or milling they are ready for the iime, ihe lime to be made in equal quantities of wood ysh«^s. Iret^h burned lime or potash dissolved in water so as to make a i} e of the same strength wood ashes would make, handle daily until the hair comes off freely, say 2 bush, lime and 6 lb.-. you make a very pliant and solid article, such as harness, bridle, upper and slaughter sole. I have been using the above for many years, varying it in all its proportions, and after much labor and expense believe I have rendered the art of tanning more simple and sure than has been done by any other process. The art of tanning to all intents is a chemi- cal operation, converting hungry gelatin into leather. Chemicals are positively necessary to convert a raw material into a splendid article of leather, and that, too, in a very short time much better, more desirable, more tough, weighty and handsomely grained than by any old system. No danger to be apprehended by hardening the stock when strong liquor and chemicals are used. Alter a lew experi- ments with the above a tanner can change the proportions from time to time as he proceeds, so as to produce an article to please himself. TO REMOVE THE GROWTH FROM PELT, As soon as the skin is fully cleaned smd made soft, cover the flesh side with any kind of good soap mixed with oue- twefth part of its own weight of good sal soda moistened suflSciently to mix well with the soap, fold the skin and leave it in a warm place till the growth will slip off easily, then rub it off by hand or beam it off with a wooden or iron beaming knife, if it be desired. The grain of the pelt can be decomposed so as to rub off with the growth, by leaving the soap and soda on for a longer time. No particular time for either can well be specified. Experience will be the only proper guide for this. The soap and soda should be rinsed out with weak starch water before using. TO DYE DEER OR SHEEP SKIN BIFF COLOR. After the skin is well tanned and finished smooth, did it for four hours in a warm solution of gum alves and alum brine, and then work it dry again. FOR, TANNING FURS, PELTRIES AND DEER Sh'INS. All pells, whether for furs or other peltries, or for leather potash. By warming your lime not over milk warm the hair will come oflf sooner, and not require much beating. They are then unhaired, rinsed and ready for the bate orgrainer, the bate to be made of hen or pigeon manure. The latter is the strongest. After being properly worked and rinsed in fresh water they are ready for the handler. For 100 calfskins or 20 hides use the liquor made from any kind of oak bstrk, or 25 lbs. bilonia, or 28 lbs. Terrajaponica, or 50 lbs. dividivi as your tanning material, either of them to bo dissolved in hot bark liquor or hot water. Then dissolve the following chemicals in hot water separately, viz.: 8 lbs. sulphate goda (Glanber salts), 2 Ins. sulphate potash, 2 lbs. ainm, 1 lb. sulphur, 12 lbs. common salt. Mix your chemicals and liquop for tanning, and it is ready for operation, handle well, kceo your stock moving for an hour, and you will soon perceivr bow readily your stock will color and imbibe the tanning principle. Keep them in liquor two days, handle often, but if you desire to operate speedily, change the liquor after the first day, then prepare another first quality liquor, add the same amount of chemicals ard proceed as before until perfectly tanned. You can tan by handly entirely, handle well and lay away an in the old method, running up your vat with strong liquor thoroughly saturated with chemicals, lot them ]-^y two weeks, draw, laying again as customary with ground burk, run up with No. 1 liquor and chemicals, let them lay a month or so on until perfectly tanned. In three rtionths you will find them tanned. The heaviest slaughter hides can be tanned in four months, having a handS'MTie bloom. Shoulders and bellies well filled with a firm texture commanding the highest market price. A tali- ner should always bear in mind that in all cases acids ha»'den and a'kalies sofien. White sulphates form a medium pliant Iciiiher In tanniritr, by judicious management, you can at nil limes mariuftictnre a superior article with little trouble, viz : For a soft quality of leather, such as enamelers use, use more potash in making your sulphate of potash and less acid. This, wiih other chemicals, make a very soli stock, bands(.melv irrainc'l. such ns enumcl'-rs u-^c. French cn!t" and sluephkii s, :irnl \\ an equal amount of alkali anr! «c'<), 10 must be well freed from all flesh, fat and other matter, by- being beamed with a knife or scraper, and then well scoured in suds of fine soap and sal soda before any tan stuff or coloring mfitter is applied. Care should also be exercised in freeing the pelt perfectly from suds by rinsing and wringing, and by beaming previous to tanning. When the pelt is well cleaned and scoured, as above directed, make a brine of common salt until no more will dissolve at blood heat; also prepare a like quantity of mucilage by passing very warm water through a fine sack filled with clean wheat bran; also dissolve a small quantiiy of good starch into warm water. Let the brine, mucilage and starch water settle till quite clear, then pour them carefully together into a wooden or earthen vessel of sufficient dimensions to give free motion to the pelts when stirred. Place the vessel where it will keep warm for two hours. Dip the pelts in clean, strong alum water at blood heat for two hours. Rinse the pelts free from alum water and wring or beara them dry as pos- sible. When all is ready pour iuto the mixture of brine and mucilage (still keep warm) a quantity of sulphuric acid (oil of vitrol) equal to one ounce of aci i to every two quarts of mixture, and put the pelts in as quickly a^ possible, and stir them briskly for tweoty-five miwutes. Take out the pelts and scrape and rinse and wring them fr^e from the tan stuff. Repeat this process by putting more acid into more mixture and stirring aj^ain for twenty minutes, and again rinse and scrape or beam drv as possible. Be careful to hive the mix- ture touch every partof each pelt. Let the pelts hang in a shady, airy place until just dry Hoouga lo turn while wr en palled or stretched in any direction, Continue the pulling and working of each pelt it) turn until quiiedry, without much i n- tenniMfsion, pulling thern first at the cdgrH, 'diid so inwirdly towards the centre or the pelt, changing the peU rouud and round, a-» it is pulled to keep the fibre subject to an even effect. Mich depends upon working the pelts at the ri'ght time, that is, when jnst dry enou 'h to turn white when pull- ed and by coniifjuing the process of working tully dry. When thepelt^are nearly o; qai te dry, they should bo beam- 11 ed over a plank or board «vith a sharp wcoden or dull iron beaming knife, and then finiMbed by polishing the leather side by the use of coarse files and sand paper. PI^OCESS OF WASHING. This IS a rery essential part of the tanning, and one of the greatest secrets of the procets, as the beauty of the goods depends upon the cleanliness of them. The washing compound is composed of soft water and soft soap, to which add 1 lb. sal soda to 1 bbl. of Hofi water. All kinds of skins rauwt be handled in the same way, and the water should be as warm as the hand will bear without scalding, so as the grease may be emovel q »iek tfom the skin, and it must be borne in mind that we have two substances to contend with, and they must both be made perfectly clean — that is the wool and the skin — in order to make good work. The skin should be scraped two or three times while washing, in order t© get out the jelston, which, if left in, is apt to »ender the skin hard. If this part of the work is properly done, there is no fear of the r( st, for the dye will work well on clean wool, and the tanr*ing is a perft-ct success on clean skins C^-nmon 8(>fo so ip will answer for washing jvll kinds ot colored skins and all fur bearing skins, except those dye'l or whitened by the bleaching process. For those we u^e the very best fine bar soap dissolved in hot water until quite ihiii, th n add to this liquid soap one oz. of Aquaam- moniu to every twu lbs. oi soap. No. I. --WHITE DTE OR BLEACHING PROCESS. When the skins are washed perfectly clean and the soap is all rinsed out, the solution is made by tuking four pails ()f iillt-rtd or pure water, a suffi. ier»t quantity to cover the article to be bleached or whitei»ed, a-* the intention of this proci'SM is to do one skin at a time. Tho following chemicals are to be added to water that forms the bleaching process: One Ih. of cornmou salt to each pail of water, 1 lb. of alum to every 4 lbs of salt, 1 lb of ^ulphuric acid, and from 2 to 4 oz. ol waabing Boda. The acid must be put in small quauti* 12 ties; ^ of a lb. betore dippiDg the firat ekin. This must be well dissolved by stirring with a clean stiik or with the band. This quantity is sufficient to do from 6 t 10 >kiM8 according to size, and wiil co-*t about 18 centH to mix ii it h * chemicAls are furnished at retail price, and at wholesale tr«*m 10 to 12 cents. Each skin should be held over the tub lo drain, in order not to waste any of ihe »>iea'h Dg iHubsia re, and as soon as each skin is done dripping it is taken by ""ue end by the hand and snapped in o der lo sir* tch oui the wool arid thro «v oflf the bars and loose dirt that may be sticking to the wool, then eha »ge ends aJid snap as before, and in a short time the w ooi vvill be; >me q nie drv. Noa?, it is ready for the tanning process, and it hiiouM oe spread on a clean table where there is no dirt lo stick to the woid, wool side down and completely covered with the tanning on the flesh side. No, 2.— COLORING YELLOW. After the ykins are wa^hed clean in s ap and w tter as warm as the hand will bear and the soap ah rinsed out, they are now ready for dying. Take sufficient warm wa er, o" as rnvich as will cover the article, then dissolve 1 <.z. ot pieric Ncid in 1 gal. of boiling water. This is suiii lent to dye 8 or 10 skins, then add \ of this acid to the water for the Hrst skins, then as each skin is dipped add a little more. If you have only one skin to dye of this color, of cojrse have ihe dye left, which can be kept in a bottle corked up, whch will keep for any length of time, and we use as a morder or p t for this color common alum, say 1 oz. of pulverized alum for each skin, and a little sulphuric acid may be used, a^* it makes the color brighter and more beautiful, say ^ lb. of this acid may be used in dy ng 6 t>kins by puit'ng in a little at a time in the dye tub, then it is to be rinsed as bef rearjd put on the table and tanned on the fleah side with r^ulphuric acid as before Said. All skins with the w..»ol or huir on should be bung with the wool side towaids the sun \n order to have them dry soft. When the wool is dry they ar3 to be taken on the flewhiug beam and woiked uu , and a second 13 coat of tanning applied. Skins should not be left in the Hun to get too dry, as it has a tendency to raaUe them hard. As soon a> the wool is dry they should be hung in the shade to tinir*h drying. When they are nearly dr^ they should have a thorou-h tanning in order to take the stretch out and render the ^kinssoft and flexible, and I will guarantee that one hou.'s labor is sufficient to do a common skin, and does not cost 10 cents for each skin. No. S'—TO COLOR MAJENTA, As this is a very peculiar dye, and is the only dye that will make a color for itself, consequently the color it not goo 1 and wtl not stand nor last but by using ommou lye to set it. the color will stand much better, say ^ a wine glass tull lo each bkin stirred in the water. Tnose skins are to be soaked in the same way and bandied the same, except the different color, and in tanning you must be very careful not to get the tanning on the wool. Tde dye should be dissolved in boiling hot water, \ oz. of dye in 2 qts. of watur. This is sufficient tn dye 3 skins by turning in \ as each skin is dyed m Buffirient water to cover the article, and the water should be as hot as the hand will bear in order to make the work qu ck and beautiful, and a skin dyed should be rinsed out ar er it lo ^)|^^^. betbre the tanning is put on. No. 4'-'R^D, This color should have 2 separate tubs, as the skin is first d3ed m>.jenta the same as af«,»resaid, then dyed yellow and rinsed and turned as before. No. ^,— BROWN. This color is made by taking catacue 1 lb. for each skin, to be dissolved in hot water and put into a tub with sufficient water to cover a skin. Before the skin goes in this color it should be dipped in lime water, say 2 lbs. of lime to 3 pails ol warer. Tnis sets the color so as it will never fade. Now th' rkin, after being dyed, requires a thorough washing in boap audti to Fonder the skin perfectly clean, and ttiuoed with 14 Bulpburic acid on the flesh side. No, b.— GREEN. This color is made by dying the skio yellow, then dyed in indjgo of f*ufficient streii^'ih to britig out a beautiful color, according to taste. Tht indigo comp lund in what nbould be used, because it is already dissolved. No. y.— TIPPING DYE. For dyeing furs is alt«o a good hair dve. Take nitraie of silver dissolved in water forms No. 1. Xo. 2 pieric a^-id ili**- solved in water, put \ oz. of t>ach in 2 oz ot water. T'h-h i^ to be put on with a trurh. Saturate the hair wth No 1, and wher dry put on No. 2 with a separate bru>h. Tl:en let dry and wash with soap suds and sponge. No. S,-H01V TO RESTORE COLORS. Blue, red, green, yelow, white or any of the>t' colors may be restored by taking .sufficient quantity of clean water to cover the article. Add to each pail ot water 1 lb. of clean salt, \ lb. of alum, ^ lb. ot sulphuric acid, 1 oz washing s d », 4 drops of indigo compound stirred well with the hand. After the article is washed clean in goid ^uds it is to be im- mersed lu this mixture f-T a minute or two. Those color-^, though quite faded, wi 1 mU return as good as new. No. g.—HOW TO DRESS DEER SKINS OR OTHER SKINS TO IMITA TE DEER SKINS. First soak the skins until they are Hoft, in noap ^^d^, and flesh them same as other nkins. At this time they are ready for graining. The graining horse is made by taking hard wood pole 6 or 7 feet long, place 2 legs in this pi>!e close to one end to give it a standing po8iti(;ti, remove th^* hai k < ff the top side so as to make it perfectl}- ^moruh where the ski.i rests on it, The graining knife is made by t-king a common case knife and driving the edge into a round s ick of s >ft wood, either pine or cedar, of sufficier-t sizj to torm :i suitab'e handle, then grind the back of the knife sq lare on a grind 16 stone, forming a square edge, then the graif> and hair Is to be removed, p ensiDg witb ibis knite. After this i^s nccvi^itliyh- ed it is to be piaci-d in ?ait and water f »r 6 hour?*, iic^n it is to be burg up to dry ID ibe nb^do. It is now ready for dressing. Tbe dressiDg compound is made by taking 2 qts. of soft 80ap nnd 1 pi. o.' tanner's oil, mix well together, warm, rub suSicientiy quantity of this on tbe fle<«b eide of the skin to cover it ail over thorough I v, roll up and lot it lay from 6 to 12 hours until the ^mixture goes through properly, then take the balance of the compound, mix it wiih warm water, enough to cov»r tbe sltin, work the skin in this until it be- comes perfectly soft, then dry tbe tskin, and when it is dry place it a£;ain on tbe fiat beam and take the ^tretch out witb a round pointed kn t'e, same as other skins. After the pkio is waibed clean, it is to be left in the suds until the wool slips off easily, then to be saturated with sulphuric acid and hung up in tbe shade until dry. HO IV TO MAKE SHEEP SKINS RUSETTS. Dissolve 5 lbs. Terrajaponica in three pails of beiling water, when cold add 5 pails of cold water. This will color a dozen skins. Handle occasionally until thoroughly colored to avoid spotting. About two days is sufficient time to bring out good leather. Take out the stretch the same as other skins, and apply a very little oil on the grain side. What is :he prime cost of taoning material for 100 lbs. of leather averaging 14 lbs. per side? When bark is $8 per cord it costs $5 per lOO lbs. The ex- tracts are preferable, as it is less cost of labor, leaching, grinding, etc. In looking over my records of packs of lea? her in tanning with Japonica and acid, we fiod in looking over 12 packs of barnei^s 329 sides consumed 2.765 lbs. of Japoitica, being 8 lbs. 6^ 02. per side of aver.ge barnesM le.i her. T»i up^icr and heavy rip, bate nbave'l. per piecp, 4:^^ lbs- To calf and light kip per piece, 2 lbs. 2 oz , others added being only a few cents additional expense. Therefore, finding ihe true ^4Ziouot of material to the average weight of tbe diff rent n: 16 kinds of stock, I find that to make tber answer to Sr M. Qean „ '^ &Son, East Randolph, N. iT., inquiring to pVodncp X'^ '\h^^. '' sides in the rough, it will-take seven sides or 210 lbs/ neat,, ^t beef hides to tpake 98 lbs; harness in. the rougb,.or wiiroiake/^ "i' 105 lbf», finished harne'ss, requiring for thi^weigh-t. (7 sideS ix^ -^-l all)52ilb8, Japonica^8 lt)^;7io2. i^r:8i4e. .J^j^^p : '^'■[ii'v\ A ,: Uw i^y . tJ! .•1^ , ^ .^ w^^ vW •. LIBRARY OF CONGRESS IliiliBilElil 016 058 319 8 A