TT 520 .S4 Copy 1 ^ THE AMERICAN DESIGNER and CUTTER A Complete, Practical and Up-to-date Work on the Art of Designing, Cutting, Grading, Fitting, Sketching and Practical Tailoring of all kinds of Womens', Miss- es', Juniors', Childrens' and Infants' Garments Prof. Sr SCHORR Publishers AMERICAN PAT! ERN COMPANY New York, U. S. A. COPYRIGHT 1915. B Y SAUL SCHORR Entered according to act of Congress in the office of tlie Librarian of Congress at Washington, D. C, and any infringements on the Copyright will be prosecuted to the fullest extent of the law. AUG I6I9I5 )CI,A411102 ?l^ Preface THE freely expressed wishes of my numerous correspondents and pupils, in- duced me to put into book form this compilation of several year's observation, experiment and practice in the art of Designing and Garment cutting. This book is devoted to the art of designing, cutting, grading, fitting, sketching and practical tailoring of all kinds of Ladies', Misses', Juniors', Childrens' and Infants' Garments. I trust the trade will here acknowledge an honest attempt at finding a work of a permanent nature, that no matter how fashion may fluctuate, will conveniently be at hand as a guide to the principles of designing and garment cutting to ensure artistic results. I have given such details of instruction as should make this not only an in- valuable handbook for the student, but a most useful work of reference for the experience Designer, Cutter and Pattern- Maker who wishes to be up to date in this important department. I am convinced that any person of average intelligence can become a master of the art through the medium of this publication, whether it be a practical Designer, Cutter or Pattern-maker, or one totally unaquciinted with the art of designing and garment cutting. 1 have spared neither labor nor expense in making the volume worthy of the highest place in the Designer's and Cutter's library, and in introducing this book to a world-wide audience believeing that it will be of great service in helping to achive success as Designer, Cutter and Pattern-Maker. THE AUTHOR Introduction. THIS work is a result of many years' study, research, and experiment, in which no pains have been spared to perfect. The student will find the system extremely simple and entirely free from complication; no scale, chart and divisions of any kind is used, simple the ordinary inch measure. The method by which the location of all points on the draft are found in numerical order in the descriptive text is new in principle and by its sim- plicity is systematized, time economized and trouble absolutely eliminated. This important and thoroughly comprehensive work is new in principle and is at the same time simpler and more direct than any other system before the trade. SAUL SCHORR 10 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER What a Designer Should Know What a Designer requires to do is to bring ideas into new associations and in order to do this he must be ever on the alert to gather them from the books of bygone age, ac well as from the passing crowd. These ideas must be not only brought into new associationc, but they must be blended with the prevailing ideas of fashions, or they will not be acceptable. Of course the Designer needs to realize that there are certain fundamental rules that must be obeyed; for instance, there must be unity between the design of one part and another. There must be order in the arrangement, and there must be a proportion running through it all, for these three, unity, order and proportion, are the laws of beauty. These we may obey, and still gather an idea for a skirt from one costume, a sleeve from an other, a collar from a third and a body part from a fourth illustration, blending the whole into one harmonious whole by some style of ornamentation which acts as a connecting link between the various parts. Ladies' Tailor Qualifications The qualifications necessary to become a successful ladies' taibr are many and various. He must be an artistic nature with an eye to beauty, so that he will be able to blend his colors to match the ladies' complection, and to arrange the seams, braiding, etc., so as to poduce the best effect on his customer. He must have a knowledge of materials and the latest method of decoration. He must be gentlemanly in manners and conversation, courteous and obliging, and be pos- sessed with an abudance of tact and ability to please, and treat his customers with respect. He should be able to take his measure easy and graceful, and he should avoid all undue handling of his customer. He should never stand directly in front of her, and he should abstain hom all unnecessary conversation. He should also have a practical and technical knowledge of his trade, and be able to design garments, and produce them up-to-date and to fit the figure. These qualities, assiduously cultivated, will enable the aspirant to achieve success. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER System One of the most important things to consider in order to become a proficient Design- er, Cutter or Pattarn-Maker is the abihty to cut perfect fitting patterns. Every Designer and Cutter who is interested in the elevation of his industry and the satisfaction of his patrons, should make it a study to be competent in his pattern cutting. The knowledge of a system of cutting IS necessarily the first step towards a practical position. The intelligent student of designing and garment cutting will require some guidance as to the principles, or basis, upon which the system is constructed. It is not sufficient that he should merely understand the location of a few construction lines, and the fewr divisional quantities that produce them. There are many mature Designers and Cutters now in practice who look back with surprise upon the number of systems (so-called) that they experimented with. The explana- tion of this very foolish practice consist in the fact that such students, though letter-perfect, so far as the actual working of their system is concerned, are absolutely devoid of all know^ledge of the principle (if any) upon which it has been found. It is only the student who has been well grounded in this essential information who can logically estimate the results of his practice. If the principles upon which a system is based are unreliable, there can be no hope of anything approaching uniform success in its use, but if the principles are right the casual troubles that arise can be expeditiously and effectually rectified. Good Lines The designer and cutter of to-day must be an artist to fully grasp what is the good line. As soon as this idea is grasped it is necessary to change again after the caprices of fashion. That what is considered the perfect line to-day is altogether changed for to-morrow. The eyes must be always open. It is difficult to follow this movement. Happily many ladies are content if their cos- tume fits well, but the greater part of dressy ladies desire that the lines must be perfect. \2 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Contrasts In ladies' garments marked contrasts often produce the very best results, and the introduction of a little velvet or brade in the trimming, or the use of some special make of button, gives the entire garment a character which pronunces it a stylish creation. In the selection of the lining excellent effects can be produced by employing compli- mentary colors such as a green lining for a russet coat, or a citrine lining for a blue coat, or a primrose lining for a heliotrop cloth, and so on. Excellent effects are often obtained by the use of white silk or satin linings, or such shades as silver gray, which goes well with any cloth. 1 think these contrasts are more succesful than the best of matches. Fashions Fashions in fema'e garments change rapidly, and as most ladies' demaed to be dressed in harmony with the latest style, it becomes desirable for the designer and ladies' tailor to keep him self well posted up in what is being worn. This may be done in several ways. In the first place he should carefully note what is being worn at the centres of fashion he visits, and particularly study the exhibits of those firms of note who have made a reputa- tion for this class of trade. Then it is very important that he should take in some fashion periodical, which illus- trate the latest features of fashion in such a way as to render them easy of applicaton to tailor-made garments; and that is what is most wanted. Style As in garment designing, so in cutting, style has ever played an important part in the trade. Style is the artistic finish given to the garment in order that it may have char- acter about it. The run of the seams, the finish of the edges, together with the size and finish of the lapels, collar and sleeves, must all be appropriate to the material used, and to the purpose the garment in intended for. Fashion plates are the means of portraying the character or style of the garments, and are interpretations of the style of the garments favored by the various classes of the cmmunity it is our duty to cater for. PART ONE WOMEN'S GARMENTS 14 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER How to Take Measurement Fig. 1. Place the tape measure from the centre of back neck over the shoulder, continue down the front of shoulder, under the arm, and straight across the centre back seam in a horizontal line. Place a pin or make a light chalk mark where the tape measure meets the centre back seam horizontally. Fig. 2. Scye Depth Measure: Measure from the centre of back neck to the point where the pin had been placed or where the chalk mark has been made. Fig. 3. Back Waist Length Measure: Frcm the centre of back neck down to the natural waist length. Continue down to the full length as desired. Fig. 4. Bust Measure: Around the body under the arms, over the fullest part in front and well upon shoulder blades in back. Fig. 5. Waist Measure: Around the body at the waist. Fig. 6. Hip Measure: Around the body about 6 inches below the waist line. For sleeve length the measure from arm pit to wrist straight down under the arm (inside seam). THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 15 How to take Measurements 16 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Comparative Proportions for Normal Womans' Sizes Size is the measurement over the breast, and is 3 inches less than the Bust measure. Bust measure is 3 inches more than the Size. Example: Size 36 measures 39 inches Bust. Size 42 measures 45 inches Bust. Waist measure . To find the Waist measure add Vz of the size and V4 of the size less 2 inches. Example: Size 36. Half is 18 and half of this is 9, together 27 less 2 inches is 25 inches the Waist measure. Example: Size 38. Half is 19 and half of this is 9'/2, together 28'/2 less 2 inches is 26 '/2 inches the Waist measure. Hips measure is 4 inches more than the Size. Example : Size 36 measures 40 inches Hips. Size 40 measures 44 inches Hips. Neck Measure . V4 Size and 5 inches more will give the bodice size of neck. Example: Size 36. One-quarter of 36 is 9 and 5 inches more is 14 inches the bodice size of neck. Example: Size 42. One-quarter of 42 is 10'/2 and 5 inches more is 15'/2 inches the bodice size of neck. Ba ck width measure. '^ Size and 4'/2 inches more will give the Back width measure. Example : Size 36. One quarter of 36 is 9 and 4'/2 inches more is 13'/2 inches the Back width measure. Scye depth measure is 1 inch less than '/e total height. Example: 5 feet 6 inches height. One-eighth of 66 is 8!4 less 1 inch is 7'^ inches the Scye depth measure. Example : 5 feet 4 inches height. One-eighth of 64 is 8 less 1 inch is 7 inches the Scye depth measure. Back waist-length measure is 1 inch less than V4 total height. Example: 5 feel 6 inches height. One-quarter of 66 is 16'/2 less 1 inch is 15'/2 inches the Back waist length. Example: 5 feet 2 inches height. One-quarter of 62 is 15'/2 less 1 inch is 14'/2 inches the Back waist-length measure. Sleeve length is 2'/2 inches more than the Back waist-fength measure or l'/2 inches more than V4 total height. Example: By 15'/2 inches Back waist-length measure is the Sleeve length measure 18 inches. Example: By 5 feet 6 inches height is the Sleeve length measure 18 inches. Skirt length in front is '/2 total height and 9 inches more ; side length is V2 total height and 10'/2 inches more; back length is Yj total height and 11 inches more. Example: 5 feet 6 inches. Skirt measure is: front 42 inches, side 43'/2 inches, back 44 inches. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 17 Table of Proportionate Measurements For Women Size 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 Height ^Feet 2 inch. i^Feet 4 inch. ^"Feet 6 inch. ^Feet 6 inch. ^Feet 6 inch. ^Feet Ginch. ^eet 6 inch. Scye depth 63/4 7 7/4 7/4 71/4 71/4 71/4 Back waist length 141/2 15 151/2 15'/2 151/2 151/2 151/2 Bust 35 37 39 41 43 45 47 Waist 22 23/2 25 261/2 28 291/2 31 Hips 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 Neck 13 13/2 14 141/2 15 151/2 16 Back width 12'/2 13 13/2 14 141/2 15 151/2 Sleeve 17 17/2 18 18 18 18 18 Front length 40 41 42 42 42 42 42 Side length 411/2 421/2 43 '/2 431/2 431/2 431/2 431/2 Back length 42 43 44 44 44 44 44 18 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Systematical Outline MEASUREMENTS Scye depth 7'/t inches Back waist-length 15'/2 inches. Bust 40 inches. Waist 26 inches. Hips 41 inches. Sleeve 18 inches. TO DRAFT D Draw a straight line as from A to D. from A is the Scye depth Measure, in this case 7'^ inches. from A is the Back waist-length measure, in this case 15'/2 inches. from C is 6 inches always. Square out from A for the top line, from B for the bust line, from C for the waist line and from D for the hip line as repre- sented. from B is the half Bust measure and 4 inches more, in this case 24 inches. is the half-way between B and E. is the half-way between E and F. is the half-way between B and F. from A is 5'/2 inches always. Square out from E, F, G and 1 as repre- sented. from I is 2!/( inches. from A is the half of the distance from B to H, in this case 3 inches. Square out from K as represented. is located by drawing a line from A to J. from H is 2 inches. Square out from M as represented. N from M is % inch less than the Scye depth measure, in this case 6% inches. O from N is V2 inch on line drawn from L through N. P is the half-way between M and N. Q from I is % inch. R is located by drawing a line from A through Q. S from G is 3'/4 inches. Square out from S as represented. T from is S 1% inches less than the dis- tance from G to R. U from R is % inch more than the distance from L to O on line drawn from R through T. Cut off the point at R of Ys inch as represented. V from S is 2 inches. Connect U— V. W from R is 2 inches. Square out from W as represented X from W is % inch more than the distance from A to K, in this case 3% inches. Y is located by a line squared out from E. Z is located by a line squared out from F. NOTICE To all Diagrams — designed in this Systematical Outline — are seam-allowan- ces of Ys inch allowed. In all Diagrams — designed in this Systematical Outline — is the half Waist measure with 7 inches less than the half Bust measure. See Waist Suppression on Page 20. In all Diagrams — des:gned in this Systematical Outline — is the half Hips measure with V2 inch more than the half Bust measure. (See Hips Development on Page 20. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 19 Systematical Outline i¥ Y -4h ^^ % 20 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Tight-Fitting with One Dart First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematical Outline, then continue as follows: 1 from Z is Vi inch. 2 from Y is 2'^ inches. Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 through 2 as represented for the fashionable waist line. 3 from C is 2 inches. 4 from D is 1% inches. 5 from 3 is 1 inch less than the distance from A to K. 6 from 4 is % inch more than the distance from 3 to 5. Shape back part as represented. 7 from 5 is % inch. 8 from 6 is 1 inch. 9 from F is % inch. 10 from 1 is % inch. 1 1 is located by drawing a line from 9 through 10. 12 is the half-way between H and 9. 13 is the half-way between 7 and 10. 14 is located by drawing a line from 12 through 13. 15 from 12 is 1 inch. 16 from 13 is '/a inch. 17 from 13 is Vz inch. 18 from 14 is 1 inch. 19 from 14 is 1 inch. 20 from 11 is Vi inch. 21 from P is Vi inch. 22 from 21 is % inch for seam. 23 from 15 is % inch for seam. Shape both side-gores as represented. 24 from 10 is % inch, and is from 9 the same length as 9 to 10. 25 from 1 1 is 1 '/i inches. Shape lines 9-24-25 as represented. 26 from 2 is 1% inches. 27 is located by drawing a line from E through 26. 28 from G is 3'/t inches. 29 from 28 is 2 inches on line drawn par- allel with line 1-2. 30 is located by drawing a line from 29 parallel with line E-26. 31 from 30 is l'/4 inches. 32 from 30 is 2% inches. 33 from 29 is the same length as 31 from 29. Draw a line from 24 to 33 for the run of the waist line. 34 is located by drawing a line from 31 parallel with line E-27. 35 from 34 is % inch more than the dis- tance from 31 to 32. 3C from 27 is % inch. Shape the center of front; finish on the front the neck gorge, shoulder, armhole and dart as represented. 37 from 10 is the same length as 25 from 24. 33 from 35 is l'^ inches. 39 from 31 is the same length as 38 from 33. Finish the bottom as represented. WAIST SUPPRESSION. By applying this System the half Waist measure is with 7 inches less than the half Bust measure. For instance, 20 half Bust has 13 half Waist measure, 24 half Bust has 17 half Waist measure, 17 half Bust has 10 h?lf Waist measure, etc. It is Very easy to change the drah to your actual Waist measure, by following the instructions as below: The difference between the half actual Waist measure and the half sy-tematical Waist measure is to be added to by larger actual waist measure and to be taken off by smaller actual waist measure at the front dart. For instance by drafting a pattern with 40 bust measure the half of the systematical waist measure will be 13 inches, and if the half of your actual waist measure is 13'/2 inches, than you have to take out at the front dart 1/2 inch less: in this case take out on the draft from 30 to 32 only 214 inches. By drafting a pattern of 44 Bust measure the half of the systematical waist measure will be 15 inches, and if the half of your actual waist measure is only 14 '/a inches than you have to take out at the front dart '72 inch more; in this case take out 3'/^ inches on draft from 30 to 32. HIPS DEVELOPMENT. By applying this System the half fdips measure is with 1/2 inch more than the half Bust measure. For instance 20 half Bust has 20'/2 half Hips measure, 24 half Bust has 24'/2 half l^ips measure, etc. It is very easy to change the draft to your actual Hips measure by following the instruction as below: The difference between the half actual Hips measure and the half systematical Hips measure is to be added to by larger actual Hips measure and to be taken off by smaller actual Hips measure on the hip line equally divided at potnts 8, 19, 18, 25 and 20. For instance by drafting a pattern of 40 Bust measure the half of the systematical Hips measure will be 20y2 inches, and if the half of your actual Hips measure is 22 '/2 inches, than you have to allow 2 inches on the hip line equally divided at points 8, 19, 18, 25 and 20, and vica-verse. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 21 Tight-Fitting with One Dart 22 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Tight-Fitting with Two Darts First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematical Outline, then continue as follows: 1 from Z is Vi inch. 2 from Y is 2 '4 inches. Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 through 2 as represented for the fashionable waist line. 3 from C is 2 inches. 4 from D is 1% inches. 5 from 3 is 1 inch less than the distance from A to K. 6 from 4 is % inch more than the distance from 3 to 5. Shape back part as represented. 7 from 5 is % inch. 8 from 6 is 1 inch. 9 from F is % inch. 10 from 1 is % inch. 1 1 is located by drawing a line from 9 through 10. 12 is the half-way between H and 9. 13 is the half-way between 7 and 10. 14 is located by drawing a line from 12 through 13. 15 from 12 is 1 inch. 16 from 13 is '/2 inch. 17 from 13 is Va inch. 18 from 14 is 1 inch. 19 from 14 is 1 inch. 20 from 1 1 is Vz inch. 21 from P is Vz inch. 22 from 21 is % inch for seam. 23 from 15 is % inch for seam. Shape both side-gores as represented. 24 from 10 is % inch, and is from 9 the same length as 9 to 10. 25 from 1 1 is 1 '/2 inches. Shape lines 9-24-25 as represented. 26 from 2 is 1% inches. 27 is located by drawing a line from E through 26. 28 from G is 314 inches. 29 is located by drawing a line through 31 parallel with line 1-2. 30 is located by drawing a line from 29 through 28. 31 is the half-way between 29 and 30. 32 is the half-way between 29 and 31. 33 is located by drawing a line from 32 par- allel with line 29-26. 34 from 33 is % inch. 35 from 33 is % inch. 36 from 32 is the same length as 34 from 32. 37 from 35 is 1 inch less than the distance from A to K. 38 from 37 is 2 inches. 39 from 31 is the same length as 37 from 31. Draw a line from 24 to 39 for the run of the waist line. 40 is located by drawing a line from 34 par- allel with line 26-27. 41 from 40 is l'/4 inches. 42 from 41 is '^ inch more than the dis- tance from 35 to 37. 43 from 42 is 2'/2 inches. Shape the center of front; finish on the front the neck, shoulder, armhole and darts as represented. 44 from 10 is the same length as 25 from 24. 45 from 43 is 1 '^ inches. 43 from 37 is the same length as 45 from 39. 47 from 27 is % inch. Finish the bottom as represented. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 23 X Tight-Fitting with Two Darts 24 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Tight-Fitting Back and Semi-Fitting Front First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematical Outline, then continue as follows: 1 from Z is '/2 inch. 2 from Y is 2'^ inches. Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 through 2 as represented for the fashionable waist line. 3 from C is 2 inches. 4 from D is 1% inches. 5 from 3 is 1 inch less than the distance from A to K. 6 from 4 is % inch more than the distance from 3 to 5. Shape back part as represented. 7 from 5 is % inch. 8 from 6 is 1 inch. 9 from F is % inch. 10 from 1 is % inch. 1 1 is located by drawing a line from 9 through 10. 12 is the half-way between H and 9. 13 is the half-way between 7 and 10. 14 is located by drawing a line from 12 through 13. 15 from 12 is 1 inch. 16 from 13 is '/a inch. 17 from 13 is '/2 inch. 18 from 14 is 1 inch. 19 from 14 is 1 inch. 20 from 11 is Vi inch. 21 from P is '/2 inch. 22 from 21 is % inch for seam. 23 from 15 is % inch for seam. Shape both side-gores as represented. 24 from 10 is % inch, and is from 9 the same length as 9 to 10. 25 from 11 is l'/2 inches. Shape lines 9-24-25 as represented. 26 from 2 is 2 inches. Draw line from E through 26. 27 from G is 3'^ inches. 28 from 27 is 2 inches on line drawn par- allel with line 1-2. 29 is located by drawing a line from 28 parallel with line E~26. 30 is located by drawing a line from 28 through 29. 31 from 29 is '/2 inch. 32 from 30 is % inch. 33 from 29 is 2'/2 inches. 34 from 28 is the same length as 31 from 28. Draw a line from 24 to 34 for the run of waist line. 35 from 30 is 3'^ inches. Finish the front as represented. 36 from 10 is the same length as 25 from 24. 37 from 35 is V/a inches. 38 from 31 is the same length as 37 from 34. Finish the bottom as represented. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 25 Tight-Fitting Back and Semi-Fitting Front 26 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Blouse First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematical Outline, then continue as follows : 1 from Z is '/2 inch. 2 from Y is 2'/4 inches. Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 to 2 for the fashionable waist line as represented. 3 from C is 2 inches. 4 is the half-way between F and M. 5 from 4 is % inch. 6 from 1 is 4 inches Finish the back as represented. 7 from 4 is % inch. 8 is located by drawing a line from X through E, and is from E the same length as 2 from E. Finish the front as represented. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 27 Blouse 28 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Basque or Tunic Skirt Measurers Waist 26 inches. Hips 42 inches. To Draft A. Draw a straight line as from A to 1. B from A is the half Waist measure, in this case 13 inches, C from B is 6 inches. D from A is 2 inches. E from D is 1 inch on line squared dawn from D. F is located by a line sweeped from B, pivoting at A. G is located by a line sweeped from C, pivoting at A, and is from C Vi inch more than the half Hips measure, in this case 2V/i inches. B-C is the front iine, and F--G is the back line. To Lengthen the Skirt 1 is located by drawing a line from B through C to the length measure as desired. 2 is located by drawing a line from F through G to the length measure as desired. 3 is the center between B and F. 4 from 1 is V/i inches less than the half distance between 1 and 2, and is from 3 the length as desired. 5 is located by drawing a line from 3 to 4. 6 from 5 is 1 inch. 7 from 4 is the half difference between the width of bottom from 1 to 2 and the width of bottom as required. 8 from 4 is the half difference between the width of bottom from 1 to 2 and the width of bottom as required. Cut out the space 6 -7--8--6 as represented, and join together 6-7 with 6-8 to get the Dart on the waist line as represented on the bottom draft 3--6--3. NOTICE: On this draft are seams not allowed. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 29 Basque or Tunic Skirts 30 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Tight- Fitting Eton with One Dart First lay up all points to measure as described in Systematical Outline, then con- tinue as follows: 1 from Z is ^/i inch. 2 from Y is 2'^ inches. Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 through 2 for the fashionable waist line as represented. 3 from C is 2 inches. 4 is the half-way between F and M. 5 from 4 is % inch. 6 from 1 is 4 inches. Finish the back as represented. 7 from 4 is % inch. 8 from 2 is 1% inches. Draw a line from E to 8. 9 h-om G is 3'^ inches. 10 from 9 is l'/2 inches on line drawn from 9 parallel with line 1-2. 11 is located by drawing a line from 10 parallel with line E~8. 12 from 11 is l'/4 inches. 13 from 11 is 2% inches. 14 from 10 is the same length as 12 from 10. Finish the Front as represented. If you wish to have a close back, take off ys inch seam at the back center from A to 3. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 31 Tight- Fitting Eton with One Dart 32 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Tight-Fitting Eton with Two Darts First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematical Outline, then continue as follows: 1 from Z is V2 inch. 2 from Y is 2'^ inches. Draw lines from C to 1 and frcm 1 to 2 for the fashionable waist line as represented. 3 from C is 2 inches. 4 is the half way between F and M. 5 from 4 is % inches. 6 from 1 is 4 inches. Finish the back as represented. 7 from 4 is % inch. 8 from 2 is 1% inches. Draw a line from E to 8. 9 from G is 3'^ inches. 10 is located by drawing a line through 9 parallel with line 1--2. 1 1 is located by drawing a line from 10 through 9. 12 is the half way between 10 and 11. 13 is the half-way between 10 and 12. 14 is located by drawing a line from 13 parallel with line E--8. 15 from 14 16 from 14 17 from 16 18 from 17 19 h-om 12 s % inch. s % inch, and is from 13 the same length as 15 from 13. s 1 inch less than the distance between A and K. 2 inches, s the same length as 17 from 12. Finish the front as represented. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 33 Tight-Fitting Eton with Two Darts 34 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Tight-Fitting Eton with One Side-Gore First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematical Oudine, then continue as follows: 1 from Z is Vi inch. 2 from Y is 2'^ inches. Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 through 2 for the fashionable waist line as represented. 3 from C is 2 inches. 4 from P is % inch. 5 from H is % inch. 6 from 3 is the same as K from A. Finish the back part as represented. 7 from 6 is % inch. 8 from 4 is Vi inch. 9 from 8 is % inch for seam. 10 from F is V/i inches. 1 1 from 1 is 2 '^ inches. Finish the side gore as represented. 12 from 10 is % inch. 13 from 1 is '/4 inch. 14 from 2 is 1% inches. Draw a line from E to 14. 15 from G is 3'^ inches. 16 from 15 is Vh inches on line drawn parallel with line 1--2. 17 is located by drawing a line from 16 parallel with line E-14. 18 from 17 is I'A inches. 19 from 17 is 2% inches. 20 from 16 is the same length as 18 from 16. Finish the front as represented. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 35 Tight-Fitting Eton with One Side-Gore 36 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Tight-Fitting Eton with French Seam First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematical Outline, then continue as follows: 1 from Z is '/i inch. 2 from Y is 2'/4 inches. Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 through 2 for the fashionabie waist line as represented. 3 from C is 2 inches. 4 from O is % inch. 5 is the half-way between L and 4, or located accordingly style and taste. 6 from 3 is the same as K from A. 7 is located by drawing a line from 5 to 6 as represented. 8 from 6 is % inch. 9 from 5 is Ys inch and is V4 inch higher from the line L-0. 10 from 4 is % inch and is V4 inch higher from line L--4. 11 from P is % inch. 12 from F is IVz inches. 13 from 1 is ZVa inches. Finish the back part and the back side gore as represented. 14 from 12 is % inch. 15 from 1 is V4 inch. 18 from 2 is 1% inches. Draw a line from E to 16. 17 from G is 3'4 inches. 18 from 17 is IV2 inches on line drawn parallel with line 1--2. 19 is located by drawing a line from 18 parallel with line E--16. 20 from 19 is l'/4 inches. 21 from 19 is 2^^ inches. 22 from 18 is the same length as 20 from 18. 23 from R is the same length as L to 5. Draw a line from 23 to 18. 24 from 23 is % inch. Draw a line from 24 parallel with line 23--18 as represented. Finish the front as represented. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 37 Tight-Fitting Eton with French Seam 38 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Tight-Fitting French Seam First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematical Outline, then continue as follows: 1 from Z is '72 inch. 2 from Y is 2'^ inches. Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 through 2 for the fashionable waist line as represented. 3 from C is 2 inches. 4 from D is 1% inches. 5 from O is % inch. 6 from P is % inch. Draw a line from 5 to 6. 7 is the half-way between 5 and L, or make the width to style or taste. 8 from 3 is 1 inch less than A to K. 9 is located by drawing a line from 7 to 8 as represented. 10 from 4 is % inch more than 3 to 8. 1 1 from 8 is % inch. 12 from 10 is 1 inch. 13 from F is % inch. 14 from 1 is % inch. 15 is located by drawing a line from 13 through 14. 16 is the half-way between 9 and 13. 17 is the half-way between 11 and 14. 18 is located by drawing a line from 16 through 17. 19 from 17 is '/) inch. 20 from 17 is '/2 inch. 21 from 18 is 1 inch. 22 from 18 is 1 inch. 23 from 15 is '/2 inch. 24 from 7 is y% inch, and is !/4 inch higher from the line L-5. 25 from 5 is y% inch, and is from 6 the same length as O from P. 26 from 16 is 1 inch. 27 from 26 is % inch for seam. Finish the back and side gores as rep- resented. 28 from 14 is % inch, and is from 13 the same length as 14 from 13. 29 from 15 is l'/2 inches. 30 from 2 is 1 % inches. 31 is located by drawing a line from E through 30. 32 from 31 is % inch. 33 from G is 3'/t inches. 34 from 33 is 2 inches on line drawn from 33 parallel with line 1-2. 35 is located by drawing a line from 34 par- allel with line E-30. 36 from 35 is 1 Vi inches. 37 from 35 is 2% inches. 38 from 34 is the same length as 36 from 34. 39 is located by drawing a line from 36 par- allel with line E -31. 40 from 39 is 4% inches. 41 from R is the same width as L to 7. Draw a line from 41 to 34. 42 from 41 is 44 inch for seams. Draw a line from 42 parallel with line 41-34. 43 from 14 is the same length as 29 from 28. 44 from 40 is 1 '^ inches. 45 from 36 is the same length as 44 from 38. Finish the front as represented. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 39 Tight-Fitting French Seam 40 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Tight- Fitting Double French Seam First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematical Outline, then continue as follows: 1 from Z is '/2 inch. 2 from Y is 2'^ inches. Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 through 2 for the fashionable waist line as represented. 3 from C is 2 inches. 4 from D is 1% inches. 5 from O is % inch. 6 from P is % inch. Draw line from 5 to 6. 7 from L is the half of distance from A to K. 8 from 3 is the half of distance from A to K. 9 is located by drawing a line from 7 to 8. 10 from 4 is % inch more than the distance from 3 to 8. 1 1 from 8 is '^ inch. 12 from 10 is Vi inch. 13 from 5 is '/2 inch more than L to 7. 14 from 1 1 is '/2 inch more than 3 to 8. 15 is located by drawing a line from 13 to 14. 16 from 12 is % inch more than 11 to 14. Finish the middle back part as repre- sented. 17 from 14 is '/2 inch. 18 from 16 is Vi inch. 19 from F is % inch. 20 from 1 is % inch. 21 is located by drawing a line from 19 through 20. 22 is the half-way between 15 and 19. 23 is the half-way between 17 and 20. 24 is located by drawing a line from 22 through 23. 25 from 23 is '/2 inch. 26 from 23 is '/2 inch. 27 from 24 is 1 inch. 28 from 24 is 1 inch. 29 from 21 is '/2 inch. 30 from 13 is % inch, and is '4 inch higher from line L-5. 3 1 from 5 is % inch, and is from 6 the same length as O from P. 32 from 22 is 1 inch. 33 from 32 is % inch for seam. Finish the side gores as represented. 34 from 20 is % inch, and is from 19 the same length as 20 from 19. 35 from 21 is l'/2 inches. 36 from 2 is 1% inches. 37 is located by drawing a line from E through 36. 38 from 37 is Ys inch. 39 from G. is 3'/i inches. 40 is located by drawing a line through 39 parallel with line 1-2. 41 is located by drawing a line from 40 through 39. 42 is the half-way between 40 and 41. 43 is the half-way between 40 and 42. 44 is located by drawing a line from 43 par- allel with line E~36. 45 from 44 is Vs inch. 46 from 44 is Vs inch, and is from 43 the same length as 45 from 43. 47 is located by drawing a line from 45 par- allel with line E~37. 48 from 47 is l'^ inches. 49 from 46 is 1 inch less than the distance from A to K. 50 from 48 is '^ inch more than the distance from 46 to 49. 51 from 49 is 2 inches. 52 from 42 is the same length as 49 from 42. 53 from 50 is 2'^ inches. 54 from R is yg inch more than the distance from L to 7. Draw line from 54 to 43. 55 from 54 is % inch for seams. Draw a line from 55 parallel with line 54-43. 56 from U is the same width as 30 to 31. 57 from 56 is % inch for seams. Draw a line from 57 to 42. Draw a line from 56 parallel with line 57-42. 58 from 20 is the same length as 35 from 34. 59 from 53 is 1 '^ inches. 60 from 49 is the same length as 59 from 52. 61 from 48 is the same length as 60 from 50. 62 from 45 is the same length as 61 from 46. Finish the front as represented. By cutting out the pattern allow extra % inch for seams all way down at lines 7--8--10, and 7--11--12. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 41 Tight-Fitting Double French Seam 42 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Tight- Fitting 18 Gores First lay up all points to your measure as described- in Systematical Outline, then continue as follows: 1 from Z is '/i inch. 2 from Y is 2'^ inches. Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 through 2 for the fashionable waist line as represented. 3 from C is 2 inches. 4 from D is 1% inches. 5 from O is % inch. 6 from P is % inch. Draw a line from 5 to 6. 7 from L is the half of distance from A to K. 8 from 3 is the half of distance from A to K. 9 is located by drawing a line from 7 to 8. 10 from 4 is % inch more than the distance from 3 to 8. Finish the back part as represented. 1 1 from 8 is Va inch. 12 from 10 is V2 inch. 13 from 5 is V2 inch more than L to 7. 14 from 11 is the same width as 3 to 8. 15 is located by drawing a line from 13 to 14. 16 from 12 is % inch more than 11 to 14. Finish the middle back part as repre- sented. 17 from 14 is V2 inch. 18 from 16 is Vz inch. 19 from F is l'^ inches. 20 from 1 is l'^ inches. 21 is located by drawing a line from 19 through 20. 22 is one-third of 15-19. 23 is the halfway between 15-22. 24 is one-third of 17-20. 25 is the half-way between 17-24. 2G is located by drawing a line from 22 through 24. 27 is located by drawing a line from 23 through 25. nch. nch. nch. nch. nch. nch. nch. nch. nch. nch. nch, and is V^ inch higher from line L-5. 39 from 5 is % inch, and is from 6 the same length as O from P. 40 from 23 is 1 inch. Finish the side gores as represented. 28 from 25 is 29 from 25 is 30 from 24 is 31 from 24 is 32 from 20 is 33 from 27 is 34 from 27 is 35 from 26 is 36 from 26 is 37 from 21 is 38 from 13 is 41 from 20 is '^ inch, and is from 19 the same length as 32 from 19. 42 from 21 is 1 inch. 43 from 2 is 1% inches. 44 is located by drawing a line from E through 43. 45 from 44 is % inch. 46 from G is 3'^ inches. 47 is located by drawing a line through 46 parallel with line 1-2. 48 is located by drawing a line from 47 through 46. 49 is the half-way between 47 and 48. 50 is the half-way between 46 and 47. 51 is the half-way between 48 and 49. 52 is located by drawing a line from 50 par- allel with line E-43. 53 from 52 is % inch. 54 from 52 is % inch, and is from 50 the same length as 53 from 50. 55 is located by drawing a line from 53 par- allel with line E~44. 58 from 55 is I'/t inches. 57 from 54 is 1 inch less than ihe distance from A to K. 58 from 56 is '^ inch more than 57 from 54. 59 from 57 is 1 V2 inches, and is from 49 the same length as 57 from 49. 60 from 58 is 1% inches. 61 is the half-way between 41 and 59. 62 is located by drawing a line from 51 through 61. 63 from 61 is '^ inch. 64 from 61 is '^ inch. G5 from 62 is V4 inch. 66 from R is % inch more than the distance from L to 7. Draw a line from 66 to 50. 67 from 66 is % inch for seams. Draw a line from 67 parallel with line 66-50. 68 from U is the same width as 38 to 39. 69 from 68 is % inch for seams. Draw a line from 69 to 49. Draw a line from 68 parallel with line 69-49 70 is the half-way between S and V. 71 from 32 is the same length as 42 from 41. 72 from 6 1 is 1 V4 inches. 73 from 57 is the same length as 72 from 59. Finish the front as represented. By cutting out the pattern allow extra for seams all way down as follows: Ysinchat Hne7 9 8-10. ys inch at line 7-9-11-12. Vs inch at line 70-51-63-65. % inch at line 70-51 64-62. V4 inch at line 19 32-71. '^ inch at line 22-31-35. '/4 inch at line 40-23-29-32. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 43 Tight- Fitting 18 Gores 44 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Tight-Fitting 22 Gores First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematical Outline, then continue as follows: rep: 3 4 5 6 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 rom Z is '/2 inch, rom Y is 2V^ inches. Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 through 2 for the fashionable waist line as esented. rom C is 2 inches, rom D is 1% inches, rom O is % inch, rom P is % inch. Draw a line from 5 to 6. rom O is 2 inches. rom L is one-third of distance from L o 7. rom 3 is lYs inch less than K from A. rom 4 is % inch more than 3 to 9. s located by drawing a line from 8 to 9. Finish the back part as represented, rom 9 is V4 inch, rom 10 is Ys inch. s the half-way between 7 and 8. rom 12 is % inch less than 3 to 9. rom 13 is % inch more than 15 from 12. s located by drawing a line from 14 o 15. rom 15 is I/4 inch, rom 16 is Vs inch, rom 18 is ihe same as 3 to 9. rom from 19 is % inch more than 18 o 20. s located by drawing a line from 7 to 20. rom 20 is '^ inch, rom 21 is V2 inch, rom F is 1 '^ inches, rom 1 is 1 '^ inches. s located by drawing a line from 25 hrough 26. rom 25 is one-third of distance from 25 to 22. s the half-way between 22 and 28. s one-third of distance from 26 to 23. s the half-way between 30 and 23. s located by drawing a line from 28 hrough 30. s located by drawing a line from 29 hrough 31. Ys inch. Hi inch. '/4 inch. Va inch. V4 inch. Vs inch. Vz inch. Ys inch. Vz inch. Va inch. rom 31 is rom 31 is rom 30 is rom 30 is rom 26 is rom 33 is rom 33 is rom 32 is rom 32 is rom 27 is rom 7 is ^/ ban line L- inch, and is Va inch higher O. rom 5 is % inch, and is the same length rom 6 as O from P. rom 29 is 1 inch. Finish the side gores as represented. rom 26 is Va inch. rom 27 is 1 inch. rom 2 is 1% inches. s located by drawing a line from E hrough 49. 51 from 50 is Ys inch. 52 from G is 3Va inches. 53 is located by drawing a line through 52 parallel with line 1-2. 54 is located by drawing a line from 53 through 52. 55 from 53 is one-fifth of the distance from 23 to 54. 5S from 55 is one-fifth of the distance from 53 to 54. 57 from 56 is one-fifth of the distance from 53 to 54. 58 from 57 is one-fifth of the distance from 53 to 54. 59 is located by drawing a lime from 55 parallel with line E-49. 60 from 59 is Vz inch. 61 from 59 is Vz inch. 62 from 61 is IVa inches less than K from A. 63 from 62 is 1 inch. 64 from 63 is the same as 62 from 61. 65 from 64 is Ya inch. 6G is the half-way between 65 and 47. 67 is located by drawing a line from 58 through 66. 68 from 66 is Va inch. 69 from 66 is Va inch. 70 is located by drawing a line from 60 parallel with line E-50. 71 from 70 is 1 inch. 72 from 71 is Va inch more than 62 from 61. 73 from 72 is I'/s inches. 74 from 73 is Va inch more than 64 from 63. 75 from 74 is % inch. 73 from 67 is Va inch. 77 from R is Ys inch more than 8 from L. Draw a line from 77 to 55. 78 from 77 is % inch for seams. Draw a line from 78 parallel with line 77-55. 79 from 78 is % inch more than 14 from 8. Draw a line from 79 to 56. 80 from 79 is Ya inch for seams. Draw a line from 80 parallel with line 79-56. 81 from U is the same as 45 from 44. 82 from 81 is % inch for seams. Draw a line from 82 to 57. Draw a line from 81 parallel with line 82-57. 83 is the half-way between S and V. 84 from 38 is the same length as 48 from 47. 85 from 75 is 1 Va inches. 8G from 64 is the same length as 85 from 65. Finish the front and bottom as repre- sented. By cutting out the pattern allow extra for seams all way down as follows : % inch at line 8 9 10. inch at line 8-12-13. inch al line 14-15 16. inch at line 14-18-19. inch at line 46-35 39. inch at line 28-37-41. inch at line 25 38 84. inch at Hne 83-69-67. inch at Hne 83-68-76. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 45 Tight-Fitting 22 Gores 42 21 16 10 46 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Semi-Fitting Back and Loose Front First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematical Ootline, then continue as follows: 1 from Z is '/i inch. 2 from Y is 2'^ inches. Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 through 2 for the fashionabie waist line as represented. 3 from C is l'/2 inches. 4 from 3 is a !/4 inch. 5 from D is 1 inch. 6 from P is % inch. 7 from H is % inch. 8 from 4 is 1 inch more than the distance from A to K. 9 from 5 is % inch more than the distance from 4 to 8. Finish the back as represented. 10 from 8 is '/2 inch. 1 1 from 9 is 1 '/2 inches. 12 from 6 is '/2 inch. 13 from F is % inch. 14 from 1 is % inch. 15 is located by drawing a line from 13 through 14. 16 from 14 is '/2 inch. 17 from 1 is '/2 inch, and is from F the same length as 16 from 13. 18 from 15 is '/2 inch. 19 from 15 is 1 inch, and is from 17 the same length as 18 from 16. 20 is located by line squared out from E. 21 from 2 is '/2 inch. Draw line from E through 21. Finish the front and side gore as represented. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 47 Semi- Fitting Back and Loose Front 48 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Semi-Fitting with Dart in Front First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematical Ootline, then continue as follows: 1 from Z is '/2 inch. 2 from Y is 2'^ inches. Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 through 2 for the fashionable waist line as represented. 3 from C is l'/2 inches. 4 from 3 is a '^ inch. 5 from D is 1 inch. 6 from P is % inch. 7 from H is % inch. 8 from 4 is 1 inch more than the distance from A to K. 9 from 5 is % inch more than the distance from 4 to 8. Finish the back as represented. 10 from 8 is '/2 inch. 1 1 from 9 is 1 '/2 inches. 12 from 6 is '72 inch. 13 from F is % inch. 14 from 1 is % inch. 15 is located by drawing a line from 13 through 14. IG from 14 is '/2 inch. Finish the side gore as represented. 17 from 1 is '/2 inch, and is from F the same length as 16 from 13. 18 from 15 is 1 inch. 19 from 2 is 2 inches. Draw line from E through 19. 20 from G is 3 Va inches. 21 from 20 is l'/2 inches on line drawn parallel with line E-19. 22 is located by drawing a line from 21 parallel with line E--19. 23 is located by drawing a line from 21 parallel with line E--19. 24 from 22 is Vz inch. 25 from 24 is 3 inches. 26 from 21 is the same lenghth as 24 from 21. 27 from 23 is % inch. 28 from 27 is 3% inches. Finish the front as represented. 29 from 16 is the same length as 18 from 17. 30 from 28 is l'^ inches. 31 from 24 is the same length as 30 from 26. Finish the bottom as represented. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 49 Semi-Fitting with Dart in Front 50 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Semi-Fitting French Seam First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematical Outline, then continue as follows: 1 from Z is '/2 inch. 2 from Y is 2'^ inches. Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 through 2 for the fashionable waist line as represented. 3 from C is l'/2 inches. 4 from 3 is V4 inch. 5 from D is 1 inch. G from O is % inch. 7 from P is % inch. Draw a line from 6 to 7. 8 is the half-way between 6 and 4, or make the width to style or taste. 9 from 4 is 1 inch more than the distance from A to K. 10 from 5 is % inch more tham the distance from 4 to 9. 1 1 is located by drawing a line from 8 to 9 as represented. Finish the back as represented. 12 from 9 is V2 inch. 13 from 10 is l'/2 inch. 14 from F is % inch. 15 from 1 is % inch. 16 is located by drawing a line from 14 through 15. 1 7 from 1 5 is V2 inch. 18 from 8 is Vs inch. 19 from 6 is % inch. 20 from 18 is '^ inch. 21 from 7 is the same length as O from P. Finish the side gore as represented. 22 from 1 is Vz inch. 23 from 16 is 1 inch. 24 from 2 is 2 inches. 25 from G is 3'/4 inches. 26 from 25 is IV2 inches on line drawn from 25 parallel with line 1—2 27 is localed by drawing a line from 26 parallel with line E- -24. 28 is located by drawing a line from 26 through 27. 29 from 27 is V2 inch. 30 from 28 is Vs inch. 3 1 from 29 is 3 inches. 32 from 26 is the same length as 29 from 26. 33 from 30 is 3% inches. 34 from R is the same width as L to 8. Draw a line from 34 to 26. 35 from 34 is % inch for seams. Draw a line from 35 parallel with line 34-26. 36 from 16 is V4 inch. 37 from 22 is the same length as 36 from 17. 38 from 33 is 114 inches. 39 from 29 is the same length as 38 from 32. Finish the front and bottom as repre- sented. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 51 Semi-Fitting French Seam 52 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Semi-Fitting Hipless Effect First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematical Outline, then continue as follows: 1 from Z is V2 inch. 2 from Y is 2'^ inches. Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 through 2 for the fashionable waist line as represented. 3 from C is 3 inches. 4 from 1 is 3 inches. 5 from 2 is 3 inches. Draw lines from 3 to 4 and from 4 to 5 as represented. 6 from 3 is l'^ inches. 7 from D is 1 inch. 8 from P is V4 inch. 9 from H is % inch. 10 from 6 is l'^ inch more than K from A. 11 from 7 is % inch more than 10 from 6. Finish the back as represented. 12 from 10 is '^ inch. 13 from 11 is I'/i inches. 14 from F is % inch. 15 from 4 is % inch. 16 is located by drawing a line from 14 through 15. 17 from 15 V4 inch. Finish the back-side gore as represented. 18 from 4 is '^ inch. 19 from 16 is 1 inch. 20 from 2 is 2 inches. 21 from G is 3V4 inches. 22 from 21 is I'/a inches on line drawn from 21 paralled with line 18-5. 23 is located by drawing a line from 22 paralled with line E -20. 24 is located by drawing a line from 22 through 23. 25 from 23 is '/i inch. 26 from 23 is Ya inch, and is from 22 the same lenght as 25 from 22. 27 is located by drawing a square line up from the hip line to 26. 28 from V is % inch. Finish the front as represented. 29 from A is the length of garment as desired. 30 is located by a line squared out from 29. 31 is located by a line squared out from 29. 32 is located by a line squared out from 29. 33 from 12 is the same length as 30 from 10. 34 from 17 is the same length as 35 from 18. 35 is located by a line squared out from 29. 36 from 32 is 1 '^ inches. 37 is located by drawing a line from 25 through 24, and is from 25 the same length as 36 from 26. 38 from R is 1 inch. Allow for button stand 2 inches for single breasted and 3 inches for double breasted. Finish the bottom as represented. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 53 Semi-Fitting Hipless Effect 54 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER A ND CUTTER Semi-Fitting Coat with Underarm Gore. First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematical Outline, then continue as follows: 1 from Z is '/2 inch. 2 from Y is 2'^ inches. Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 to 2 for the fashionable waist line as represented. 3 from C is 1 '/2 inches. 4 from 3 is '^ inch. 5 from D is 1 inch. 6 from M is % inch. 7 from 6 is % inch. 8 from 4 is 3 inches more than K from A. 9 is located by drawing a curved line from 7 to 8 as represented. 10 from 5 is % inch more than 8 from 4. Finish the back as represented. 1 1 from 7 is 1 Vi inches. 1 2 from 9 is 1 '/2 inches. 13 from 8 is 2 inches 14 from 10 is 1% inches. 15 is located by drawing a shapad line from 11 to 14 as represented. 16 from 2 is 2 inches. Draw a line from E through 16 for the run of front center. 17 from G is 3'/4 inches 18 from 17 is '/i inch. 19 is locaied by drawing a line from 18 parallel with line E -16. 20 is located by drawing a line from 18 through 19. 21 from 19 is Vi inch. 22 from 21 is 3 inches. 23 from 18 is the same length as 21 from 18. 24 from 20 is % inch. 25 from 24 is 3% inches. 28 from V is % inch. 27 from 26 is % inch. 28 from A is the length of garment as desired. 29 is located on line squared out from 28. 30 from 15 is the same length as 29 from 8. 3 1 is located on line squared out from 28. 32 from 31 is l'^ inches. 33 from 21 is the same length as 32 from 23. Finish the front and underarm gore as represented. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 55 Semi-Fitting Coat with Underarm Gore. 56 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Sac Coat with Loose Front First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematical Outline, then continue as follows: 1 from Z is '72 inch. 2 from Y is 2'/4 inches. Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 to 2 for the fashionable waist line as represented. 3 from C is 1*72 inches. 4 from 3 is '^ inch. 5 from D is 1 inch. 6 from M is % inch. 7 from 6 is % inch. 8 from 4 is 3 inches more than K from A. 9 is located by drawing a curved line from 7 to 8 as represented. 10 from 5 is % inch more than 8 from 4. Finish the back as represented. 1 1 from 8 is '/2 inch. 12 from 10 1% inches. 13 from F is ^h inch. 14 from 1 is Vj inch. 15 from 14 is 2'/2 inches and is located by drawing a line from 13 through 14. 16 from 14 is Ys inch. 17 from 14 is ye inch. 18 from 2 is '/2 inch. 19 from A is the length of garment as desired. 20 is located on line squared out from 19. 21 is located by drawing a line from E through 18. 22 from 1 1 is the same length as 20 from 8. 23 from R is 1 inch. 24 is located by a line squared down from S and is 2^2 inches below the fashionable waist line. 25 from 24 is '/2 inch. 26 is located by drawing a line from 25 through 15 and is the half of the pocket size, in this case 3 inches. 27 is located by drawing a line from 26 through 25 and is the full pocket size, in this case 6 inches. 28 from S is 1 inch. 29 from G is y2 inch. 30 is located by drawing a line from 28 through 29, and is in this case 5 inches long. Finish the draft as represented. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 57 Sac Coat with Loose Front 58 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Sac Coat with Shaped Front First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematical Outline, then continue as follows: 1 from Z is '/2 inch. 2 from Y is 2'^ inches. Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 to 2 for the fashionable waist line as represented. 3 from C is 1 '/i inches. 4 from 3 is '^ inch. 5 from D is 1 inch. 6 from M is % inch. 7 from 6 is % inch. 8 from 4 is 3 inches more than K from A. 9 is located by drawing a curved line from 7 to 8 as represented. 10 from 5 is % inch more than 8 from 4. Finish the back as represented. 1 1 from 8 is '/2 inches. 12 from 10 is 1% inches. 13 from F is '/2 inches. 14 from 1 is '/2 inch. 15 from 14 is 2 '/a inches and is located by drawing a line from 13 through 14. 16 from 14 is '/2 inch. 17 from 14 is '/2 inch. 18 from 2 is 2 inches. 19 from G is 3'^ inches. 20 from 19 is l'/2 inches on line drawn from 19 parallel with line 1—2- 21 is located by drawing a line from 20 parallel with line E— 18. 22 is located by drawing a line from 20 through 21. 23 from 21 is '/2 inch. 24 from 22 is % inch. 25 from 23 is 3 inches and is from 20 the same length as 23 from 20. 26 from 24 is 3% inches 27 from A is the length of garment as denired. 28 is located on line squared out from 27. 29 is located on line squared out from 27. 30 from 1 1 is the same length as 28 from 8. 31 from 29 is 1 '^ inches. 32 from 23 is the same length as 31 from 25. 33 from R is 3^^ inches. 34 from 33 is % inch for seams. Finish the draft as represented. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 59 Sac Coat with Shaped Front 60 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER How to make Shoulder Dart To make a shoulder dart we must have first a french seam front. Put the two parts together so that they should lap over % inch from A to C and B to D as represented. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 61 How to make Shoulder-Dart 62 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Loose Box Coat First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematical Outline, then continue as follows: 1 from Z is '/2 inch. 2 from Y is 2'^ inches. Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 through 2 as represented. 3 is the half-way between F and M. 4 from 3 is % inch. 5 from 3 is % inch. 6 from 1 is V4 inch more than 5 from F. 7 from 6 is l'^ inches. 8 from C is % inch. 9 from A is % inch. 10 from L is '^ inch. 11 from R is % inch. " 12 from 2 is V2 inch. Draw a line from E through 12. 13 from A is the length of garment as desired. 14 is located by a line squared out from 13. 15 from 14 is Vz inch. 16 from 4 is the same length as 15 from 5. 17 is located by a line squared out from 13. 1 8 from 1 7 is 1 V4 inches. 19 from 11 is 1 inch. Allow for button stand 3 inches for single breasted, 4 inches for double breasted. Finish the draft as represented. If you wish to have the back center without seam, take off % inch seam at the back center. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 63 Loose Box Coat 64 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Loose Box Coat with Front-Shoulder Dart First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematical Outline, then continue as follows: 1 fom Z is 1/2 inch. 2 from Y is 2'^ inches. Draw Lines from C to 1 and from 1 through 2 as represented. 3 is the half-way betveen F, and M. 4 from 3 is % inch. 5 from 3 is % inch. 6 from 1 is '^ inch more than 5 from F. 7 from 6 is 1 V4 inches. 8 from C is % inch. 9 from A is % inch. 10 from L is V4 inch. 1 1 from R is % inch. 12 from 2 is 2 inches. Draw a line from E through 12 as represented. 13 from G is 314 inches. 14 from 13 is iy2 inches on line drawn from 13 parallel with line 1-2. 15 is located by a line drawn from 14 parallel with line E-12. 16 is located by a line drawn from 14 parallel with line E-12. 17 from 16 is V2 inch. 18 from 17 is 3 inches. 19 from 14 is the same length as 17 from 14. 20 from 15 is % inch. 21 from 20 is 3% inches. 22 from A is the full length as desssired. 23 is located by a line squared up from 22, 24 is located by a line sqoared up from 22. 25 is located by a line squared up from 22. 26 from 24 is V2 inch. 27 from 4 is the same length as 26 from 5. 28 from 25 is l'/4 inches. 29 from 17 is the same length as 28 from 19. 30 from R is inch. Allow for button stand 3 inches for single breasted, 4 inches for double breasted. Finish the draft as represented. If you wish to have the back centre without seam, take off '„ inch seam at te back centre To get the front-shoulder dart make the front with french-seam as follows: 31 from 11 is 3% inches. Draw a line from 31 to 14. 32 from 31 is % inch for seams. Draw a line from 32 parallel with line 31-14 as represented. To get the shoulder dart bring the front parts together as described an illustrated on pages 60 and 61. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 65 Loose Box Coat with Front-Shoulder Dart 66 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Coat Sleeve 1 Draw a straight line as from 1 to 2. 2 from I is the Sleeve length measure (inside seam). Square a line up from 2. 3 from 1 is a quarter of the full bust measure plus 1 inch on a line squared up from 4 is located by a line squared out from 3 as represented. 5 is the center of 1-2. 6 is located by a line squared up from 5. 7 is the center of 2-4. 8 is the center of 1-3. Square out a line from 8 as represented. 9 from 9 is 2 inches. 10 from 8 is the same length as 8 from 1 . 1 1 from I is 2 inches. Draw lines between 1 i - 1 and from I through 3. 12 is the center of 10-11. 13 is the center of 3-10. 14 from 12 is '4 inch. 15 from 1 3 is 1 '2 inches. 16 from 3 is j-o inch. 17 from 3 is '2 inch. 18 from 6 is 2 inches. 19 from 5 is 3 inches. 20 from 7 is 2 incses. Draw a line from 4 through 20. 21 from 20 is 1 inch. 22 from 20 is 1 inch. 23 from 4 is ' J inch. 24 from 21 is l<2 inch. Draw all construction lines as represented. Shape the top sleeve as represented by lines between I 1-10-1 7-18-4-22-5-1 I. Shape the under sleeve as represented by lines between 9-16-18-23-24-19-9. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 67 Coat Sleeve ^^^■"-.^ 1 JJ/^ kjl It 8 18 ^^ V 2^r^ ^T^---.,.,^^ 8< \ • \\ J1Q "^ A 22""""^^^ ^^^^ 19 7/ i 5 » 1 wj/^ 68 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Sleeve with fulness on top To make the sleeve with more fulness on the head, proceed as follows : Mark the top-sleeve as shown by A-B-C-D-E. The shape of the sleeve remains always the same between A-B-C-D and ful- ness is allowed only at points E, F, G, H as desired. Finish the top-sleeve as represented. The under-sleeve is not to be changed ; it remains always the same. One Piece Sleeve with fulness on the top and Cuff To malce one piece sleeve place the top and under sleeves together at the back seam so, that they should overlap '4 inch for figuring the seams off, and finish the sleeve as represented. The cuff is represented by heavy, broken lines. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Sleeve with fulness on top 69 One Piece Sleeve with fulness on the lop and Cuff 70 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER One Piece Sleeve with fulness on the bottom Bishop Sleeve Place the fop- and under sleeve together at the back seam so, that they should overlap % inch for figuring the seams off, and finish as represented by the upper diagram. The lower diagram shows how to make this sleeve by direct drafting as follows: 1. Square bot-ways from 1 as represented. 2 from 1 is the sleeve length measure (inseam). 3 from 1 is one-quarter of the full Bust measure plus ' 4 inch. 4 is the center between 1 and 2. 5 is the same as 1-3 on Hne squared out from 4. 6 is the center between 1-3. 7 from 2 is the same as 6 from I . 8 from 7 is 2 inches on line squared out from 7. 9 from 6 is the same as 6 from 1 on line squared out from 6. 10 from 3 is 2 inches. Connect 1-9-10 by lines. 1 1 is the center between 1 and 9. 12 is the center between 9 and 10. 13 from 11 is 1 '4 inches. 14 from 12 is '4 mch. 15 from 4 is 2 inches. 16 from 5 is 3 inches. 17 from 8 is 1 inch. 18 from 8 is 1 inch. 19 from 6 is 2 inches. Connect points as represented. Shape the sleeve at the top and front seam as represented. 20 is the center between 5 and I 6. 21 is the center between 3 and 6. 22 is located by drawing a line from 20 through 21. 23 is located by drawing a line from 22 through 20. Fold the paper at the line 22-20-23 and trace over the under sleeve as represented bv the heavy, broken hne between points 8-20-2 1 -22- 19- 1 , and finish the sleeve as represented THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 71 One Piece Sleeve with fulness on the bottom Bishop Sleeve 72 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER One Piece Tight Sleeve First make a Bishop Sleeve as described on page 70 and then continue as follows ; A-B. Draw a straight line from A to B. C is the. center between A and B. D from C is the sleeve length measure (inseam) on line squared down from C. E from D is the half wrist measure plus 'x inch for a seam on line squared out from D. F from D is the same as E from D on line drawn from E through D. Finish the sleeve as represented. One Piece Tight Sleeve with seam at the middle of the under arm First make One Piece Tight Sleeve as described above and then continue as follows A-B-C-D is the original sleeve. E-F is about the middle of the under-sleeve. Cut through the sleeve at E-F and place the piece B-C-E-F on the other side of the sleeve so, that B-C should be placed to A-D accordingly the notches, and mark over the new sleeve ar represented. By using this kind of a sleeve be careful that the side seam of the garment should correspond with the seam of the sleeve. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 73 One Piece Tight Sleeve C E One Piece Tight Sleeve with seam at the middle of the under arm 74 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Collars and Lapels Allow for button stand at the center of front for single breasted 1 to 2 inches, for double breasted 3 to 4 inches. Showl Collar Diagram 1 1 is the shoulder point. 2 from 1 is I inch. 3 is the end of the break of lapel. 4 from 2 is }4 inch more than the width of the back neck on line drawn from 3 through 2. Square up and down from 4. 5 from 4 is 1 '4 inches. 6 from 2 is 1 J4 inches. 7 from 4 is the width of the collar desired. Allow about ' 4 inch for spring at point 7. Shape the collar and lapel as represented. Single Breasted Lapel and Notch Collar Diagram 2 From 1 to 7 are the same points as described by the Showl Col ar (Diagram 1), then finish the lapel and collar as indicated. Double Breasted Lapel and Notch Collar Diagram 3 From 1 to 7 are the same points as described by the Showl Collar (Diagram 1 ), then finish the lapel and collar as indicated. Two Piece Collar Diagram 4 First mark the front and back, then continue as follows: 1 is the shoulder point. 2 from 1 is 1 !/4 inches. 3 is the end of the break of lapel. 4 from 2 is the width of the collar desired. 5 from 2 is 1 '4 inches. 6 is located by drawing a line from 2 to 3. Shape the collar and lapel as indicated by points 2-3-4. Finish the front collar as represented. Trace over the lapel by breaking the paper on the crease line 2-3, and finish the lapel as represented. 7-8 is the back neck. 9 from 7 is 2' 2 inches. 10 from 9 is the same width as 8 from 7 on the line squared out from 9. 1 1 from 1 is the same length as 4 from 5 on the front and is locr.ted inside from the back shoulder so much as point 4 is outside from the front shoulder. Finish the back collar as represented. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 75 Collars and Lapels 76 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Collars Ulster Collar Diagram A 1-2. Draw a line from 1 through 2 to 3. 3 from 2 is '4 inch more than the width of the back neck. 4 from 3 is 1 '4 inches on hne squared down from 3. 5 from 1 is 1 '4 inches on line squared down from 1 . Draw a straight Hne from 5 to 4. Draw a Hne for the collar stand from 5 through 2 to 3. 6 from 3 is the collar width as desired on line squared out from 3. 7 from 6 is '4 inch for spring. Shape the collar as indicated. Standing or Military Collar Diagram B 1-2. Draw a Hne from 1 through 2 to 3. 3 from 2 is '4 inch more than the width of the back neck. Square up and down from 3. 4 from 3 is I inch. 5 from 3 is 1 inch. 6 from 1 is 1 '4 inches. Shape the collar as representend. Standing Rolling Ulster Collar Diagram C 1-2. Draw a line from 1 through 2 to 3. 3 from 2 is '4 inch more than the width of the back neck. 4 from 3 is 1 '4 inches on line squared down from 3. 5 from 1 is 1 '4 inches. Shape the collar stand from 5 through 2 to 3. 6 from 4 is the width of collar desired on line squared down from 4. 7 from 6 is '4 inch for spring. Shape the collar as indicated. The stand at 5-2-3 is to be stretched. Standing Rolling Miltary Collar Diagram D 1-2. Draw a line from 1 through 2 to 3. 3 from 2 is '4 inch more than the width of the back neck. Square up and down from 3. 4 from 3 is I inch. 5 from 3 is 1 inch. 6 from 1 is 1 '4 inches. 7 from 3 is the width of the roll collar as desired. 8 from 7 is ' J inch for spring. 9 from 6 is the width as desired. Finish the collar as represented. The outer leaf of the collar line 9-7-8 must be slightly stretched. Roll and Button High Collor Diagram E 1 is the shoulder point. 2 from 1 is I '4 inches. 3 is the end of the break of lapel. 4 is located by drawing a line from 3 to 2. Draw a a line from 4 through 1 to 5. 5 from 1 is '4 inch more than the width of the back neck. 6 from 5 is i '4 inches on line squared down from 5. 7 from 5 is the width of the collar desired on line squared up from 5. 8 from 7 is ' o inch for spring. Finish the collar as represented. Standing Lay Down Collor from two pieces Diagram F 1-2-3-4 is the standing collar, which was prod- uced accordingly Diagram B. 5 from 1 is 1 '4 inches, and is the same length from 2 as 1 from 2. 6 from 2 is the width of the collar deyired on line draw from 2 through 3. 7 from 6 is ' 2 inch for spring. Finish the collar as represented. Storm Collar Diagram G For producing this collar take a standing collar and cut it in three pieces. 1-2 is the bottom of the standing collar. 3-4 is the top of the standing collar. 5-6 are located by dividing the bottom of three part, 7-8 are produced by dividing the top line of the collar of three parts. Depart the pieces at points 7 and 8 so far as much fullness you desire and finish the collar as represented. Allow for seams betw^een the pieces. Flat Collor Diagram H For producing this collar put to gether the front and back at the shoulder so, that they should overlap '4 inch for taking the seams off, and mark the collar to the shape desired. 78 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Circular Cape Diagram 1. A Draw a line from A through B. B from A is the Back waist-length measure. C from B is by applying a tight-fitting back pattern 2 inches, by a semi fitting back pattern 1 ' j inches, and by a loose box coat back pattern draw line A-B on the back center line of te pattern. D is located by placing the back and front together at the shoulder so, that figuring the seams off they should overlap; '4 inch, and finish the circular cape as rep- resented. Cape with One Shoulder Dart Diagram 2. To produce a cape with one shoulder dart continue on the circular cape (Diagr. 1) as follows: E is the center between A and D. F is located by a line squared out from E. G is located by a line drawn from E through F- H from F is the length of shoulder. I from G is the half amount of fulness, which we want to take out for producing a shoul- der dart. J from G is the same as I from G. Open the shoulder seam F-H. Take out fulness H-l-J-H. Join together lines H-i with H-J, and it will form a shoulder dart F-H-F as represented on Diagram 2. Allow^ for seams at the shoulder dart, and finish as represented. Cape with Two Shoulder Darts Diagram 3. To Produce a cape with two shoulder darts continue on the circular cape (Diagr- I) as follows : K from F is ' 2 inch. L from G is ' 2 inch. M from K is the shoulder length on line drown from K to L. N from K is 1 ^2 inches. O from M is 3 inches and from N is the shoulder length. P is located by drawing a line from M through O. Q frpm L is to be taken out fulness as desired. R from L is to be taken out fulness as desired. S from P the same as Q from L. T from P is the same as R from L. Open the shoulder seams from K to M and from N to O. Take out fulness R-M-Q and S-O-T. Join together lines R-M with Q-M, also S-O with T-O to forni the two shoulder darts. Allow for seams at the darts, and finish as represented. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 79 Capes 80 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Yoke To produce a yoke lay the back and front together at the shoulder so, that they should overlap '4 inch for figuring the seams off, and finish the yoke as represented. Hood The hood is constructed from a cape as follows : A-B is 1 inches, or more or less accordingly style or taste. C from B is 1 inch less than A-B, in this case say 9 inches. D from C is one third of the length of line B-C, in this case say 3 inches. E from D is I inch. Finish the hood as represented. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 81 Yoke Hood 82 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Cape Coat To produce a Cape Coat proceed as follows : Take a loose box coat pattern and mark the front as it is represented by points 1-2-3-4-5-6-1. Place the back part so that points 9 and 1 should be with points 3 and 4 in one direction, and in the same time be careful that points 7 and 8 should be in the same direction as points I and 2. Mark the back pattern as represented by points 7-8-9-10-11-12-7, 1 3 is the center between I and 7. 1 4 from 4 is allowed for fulness desired. Shape the side seam as represented by points 1 3 - 2 - 14. The front of the Cape Coat is 6-13-2-14-5-6. The back of the Cape Coat is 12-13-2-14-11-12. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 83 Cape Coat Te AS .1=:^— • 84 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Cape with Kimono Sleeves First produce a Cape Coat as described on page 82, then continue as follows: Draw a straight line from 1 3 through 2 till 1 5. 1 5 from 1 3 is the sleeve length desired. I 5 from 2 is the same length as 1 5 from 2. Draw^ a curved line from I 5 to 1 6 as represented. The front is 13-2- 15- 16- 14-5-6-13. The back is 13-2-15-16-14-11-12-13. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 85 Cape with Kimono Sleeves 86 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Coat with Kimono Sleeves A. Square both ways from A as represented. B from A is the Scye depth measure. C from A is the Back waist length measure. D from A is the full length desired. E from B is the half Bust measure plus 4 inches. G from E is /4 part of B-E. 1 from A is S/li inches. J from I is 2/4 inches. K from A is the half of E-G. L is located by a line squared out from K. M from B is '4 part of B-E plus 2 inches. N from M is ''s inch less than B from A. Q from I is '4 inch. R is located by drawing a line from A through Q. S from G is 3/4 inches. T from S is r'4 inches less than R from G. W from R is 2 inches. X from W is •4 inch more than K from A. Y is located by a line squared down from E. 1 from A is 's inch. 2 from C is 1 '2 inches. 3 is located by a line drawn from A through 2. 4 is the center beetwen S and M. 5 is located by a line squared down from 4. 6 from 4 is / inch more than 40 from 31. 43 from 41 is the same length as 38 from 32. The Systematic Hip measure is 1 inch more than the Bust measure, in this case 39 plus 1 is 40 inches, the half of this is 20, add to this the same as it is 40 from 31, in this case 20 plus 2'2 is 22'2 inch- es the half Hip measure. Compare this 22/2 vvith the half of the actual Hip measure (2234); if there is any difference, it has to be taken off by small- er hip, and to be added by larger hi.j at points 36, 37, 10 and 13 equally divided. Finish the diagram as represented. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 109 Semi-Fitting French Seam For Stout or Maternity Sixes no THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Shirt Waist First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematical Outline, then continue as follows: 1 from Z is '/2 inch. 2 from Y is 2'^ inches. Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 to 2 for the fashionable waist line as represented. 3 from C is 4 inches. 4 from 1 is 4 inches. 5 is located by a line squared up from D. Draw lines between 3-4 and 5 as represented. 6 from C is 2 inches. 7 from 4 is % inch. Draw lines A-6-7 for tight-fitting back-, and for loose back draw line from A to 7. 8 is the center of F-M. 9 from 8 is '/2 inch. 10 from 8 is '/2 inch. 1 1 from 1 is 4 inches. 12 is the center of 1-11. 13 from 12 is 2'/2 inches. 14 is located by drawing a line from X through E and is from E the same length as 5 from E. Finish front and back as represented. The back center for tight-fitting back is A-6-7 and for gathering the back at the waist allow fulness in the waist by drawing a line from A to 3 as. represented. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER III Shirt Waist 112 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Shirt Waist with Side Gore First lay up all points to measure as described in Systematical Outline then continue as follows: 1 from Z is '/2 inch, 2 from Y is 2'^ inches. Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 to 2 for the fashionable waist line as represented. 3 from C is 4 inches. 4 from 1 is 4 inches. 5 is located by a line squared up from D. 6 from C is 2 inches. 7 from 3 is 1% inches. 8 from M is 1 '/4 inches. 9 from 8 is '/2 inch. 10 from 6 is 1 inch more than the space from A to K. 11 from 7 is 1 inch more than the space from 6 to 10. 12 is located by shaping the line from 9 to 10, Finish the back part as represented. 13 from 10 is % inch. 14 from 11 is Wz inches and is from 13 the sams length as 11 from 10 1 5 from F is % inch. IG from 1 is % inch. Draw line from 15 to 16. 17 from 16 is % inch. 18 from 1 is 1 inch. 19 is the centre of 17-18. 20 from 19 ts 2'/2 inches. 21 is located by drawing a line from X through E, and is from E the same length as 5 from E Finish the side gore and front as represented. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 113 Shirt Waist with Side Gore 114 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Tight- Fitting Waist Lining First lay up all points to measure as described in Systematical Outline, then continue as follows: 1 from Z is '/2 inch. 2 from Y is 2'^ inches. Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 through 2 for the fashionable waist line as represented. 3 from C is 4 inches. 4 from 1 is 4 inches. 5 is located by a line squared up from D. Draw lines between 3-4 and 5 as represented. 6 from C is 2 inches. 7 from 3 is % inch. 8 is the centre of F-M. 9 from 8 is % inch. 10 from 8 is % inch. 1 1 from 1 is 4 inches. 12 is the centre of 1-11. 13 from 12 is 2'/2 inches. Finish back part as represented: 14 from 2 is 1% inches. 15 is located by drawing a line from E through 14. 16 from G is 3'^ inches. 17 from 16 is IVz inches on line drawn parallel with line 1-2. 18 is located by drawing a line from 17 parallel with line El 4. 19 from 18 is l'/4 inches. 20 from 18 is 2% inches. 21 from 17 is the same length as 19 from 17. 22 is located by drawing a line from 19 parallel with line 14-15. 23 from 22 is 4% inches. 24 from 15 is Ye inch. Finish the front and back as represented. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 115 Tight-Fitting Waist Lining 116 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Tight- Fitting Waist Lining with Side Gore First lay up all points to measure as described in Systematical Outline, then continue as follows: 1 from Z is '/2 inch. 2 from Y is 2 V2 inches. Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 through 2 for the fashionable waist line as represented. 3 from C is 4 inches. 4 from 1 is 4 inches. 5 is located by a line squared up from D. Draw lines between 3-4 and 5 as represented. 6 from C is 2 inches. 7 from 3 is 1% inch. 8 from 12 is 1 '^ inches. 9 from 8 is Yz inch. 10 from 6 is 1 inch more than the distance from A to K. 1 1 from 7 is 1 inch more than the distance from 6 to 10. 12 is located by shaping a line from 9 to 10. Finish back part as represented. 13 from 10 is % inch. 14 from 11 is IV2 inches, and is from 13 the same length as 1 1 from 10. 15 from F is % inch, 16 from 1 is % inch. Draw line from 15 to 16. 17 from 16 is % inch. 18 from 1 is 1 inch. 19 is the centre of 17-18. 20 from 19 is 2'/2 inches. 21 from 2 is 1% inches. 22 is located by drawing a line from E through 21. 23 from Gis 3!4 inches. 24 is located by drawing a line through 26 parallel with line 1-2. 25 is located by drawing a line from 24 through 26. 2G is the centre of 24-25. 27 is the centre of 24-26. 28 is located by drawing a line from 27 parallel with line E 21. 29 from 28 is Vs inch. 30 from 28 is % inches. 31 is located by drawing a line from 29 parallel with line 21-22. 32 from 31 is IVi inches. 33 30 is 1 inch less than the distance from A to K. 34 from 32 is '^ inch more than the distance from 30 to 33. 35 from 33 is 2 inches. 36 from 26 is the same length as 33 from 26. 37 from 34 is 2'^ inches. 38 from 22 is Ys inch. Shape front and side gore as represented. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 17 Tight-Fitting Waist Lining with Side Gore 118 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Sleeve Construction for Waist 1 Draw a straight line as from 1 to 2. 2 from 1 is the sleeve length measure. Square a line up from 2. 3 from 1 is a quarter of the full bust measure on a line squared up from 1. 4 is located by a line squared out from 3 as represented. 5 is the centre of 1-2. 6 is located by a line squared up from 5. 7 is the centre of 2-4. 8 is the centre of 1-3. Square out a line from 8 as represented. 9 from 8 is 2 inches. 10 from 8 is the same length as 8 from 1. 1 1 from 1 is 2 inches. Draw lines between 11-10 and from 10 through 3. 12 is the centre of 10-11. 13 is the centre of 3-10. 14 from 12 is IV2 inches. 15 from 13is% inch. 16 from 3 is '/a inch. 17 from 3 is '/a inch. 18 from 6 is 2 inches. 19 from 5 is 3 inches. 20 from 7 is 2 inches. Draw a line from 4 through 20. 2 1 from 20 is 1 inch. 22 from 20 is 1 inch. 23 from 4 is '/a inch. 24 from 21 is Vi inch. Draw all construction lines as represented. Sleeve for Waist First lay up all points to measure as described in Sleeve Construction for waist then continue as follows: Shape the top sleeve as represented dy lines between 11-10-17-18-4-22-5-11. Shape the under sleeve as represented by lines between 9-16-18-23-24-19-9. JHE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 119 Sleeve Construction for Waist Sleeve for Waist 120 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER One Piece Sleeve with fulness on the bottom Bishop Sleeve Place the top- and under sleeves together at the back seam so, that they should over lap -'4 inch for taking the seams off, and finish as represented. One Piece Sleeve with fulness on the top and Cuff Place the top- and under sleeves together at the back seam so, that they should overlap '4 inch for takmg the seams off, and finish the sleeve as represented. The Cuff is represented by heavy, broken lines. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 121 One Piece Sleeve with fulness on the bottom Bishop Sleeve One Piece Sleeve with fulness on the top and Cuff 122 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER One Piece Tight Sleeve First make a Bishop Sleeve as described on page 1 20 and then continue as follows : A-B. Draw a straight line from A to B. C is the center between A and B. D from C is the sleeve length measure (inside seam) en line squared down from C. E from D is the half wrist measure plus 's inch for a seam on line squared out from D. F from D is the same as E from D on line drawn from E through D. Finish the sleeve as represented. One Piece Tight Sleeve with seam at the middle of the under arm First make One Piece Tight Sleeve as described above and then continue as fellows : A-B-C-D is the original sleeve. E-F is about the middle of the under-sleeve. Cut through the sleeve at E-F and place the piece B-C-E-F on the other side of the sleeve so, that B-C should be placed to A-D accordingly the notches, and mark over the new sleeve as represented. By using this kind of a sleeve be careful th it the side seem of the garment should correspond with the seam of the sleeve. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 123 One Piece Tight Sleeve One Piece Tight Sleeve with seam at the middle of the under arm 124 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Standing or Military Collar A. Square both ways from A as represented. B from A is the half neck measure plus '4 inch for two seams. C is the center of A-B. D from A is 3 inches. E from B is 3 inches on line squared up from B. F is the center of line drawn from D to E. G from E is "4 inch. H from D is '4 inch. I from F is '4 inch. J from B is ''4 inch. K from A is '4 inch. Shape the Collar as represented. Line A-C is the back center. High Standing Collar A. Square both ways from A. B from A is the half neck measure plus 's inch fcr one seam. C from A is 3 inches. D from B is 3 inches on line squared up from B. E from D is '4 inch. F from B is '4 inch. G from C is '4 inch. Fold the paper on line E-F, which is the front center. Shape the collar as represented. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 125 Standing or Military Collar High Standing Collar 126 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Dutch Collar Diagram 1 Lay the Front and Back together at the shoulder so, that they should over lap % inch for taking the seams off and finish the collar as represented. Norman Collar Diagram 2 Lay the Front and Back together at the shoulder so, that they should over lap '4 inch for taking the seams off and continue as follows : A is the neck point. B is the point where the collar should end. C from A is a straight line drawn parallel with the front center of the garment and is from A the same lehgth as B from A. Sailor Collar Diagram 2 Lay the Front and Back together at the shoulder so, that they should over lap '4 inch for taking the seams off and finish the collar as represented. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 127 Collars for Waist DIAGRAM 1 DIAGRAM 2 /' / / .-•^ 128 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Yoke To produce a Yoke lay the back and front together at the shoulder so, that they should overlap 4 inch for figuring the seams off, and finish the Yoke as represented. Shield To produce a Shield lay the back and front together at the shoulder so, that they should overlap \^ inch for figuring the seams off, and finish the shield as represented. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 129 Yoke Shield 1 30 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Waist with Kimono or Butterfly Sleeves First lay up all points as described in Systematic Outline, then continue as follows; 1 from Z is ' J inch. 2 from Y is 2*4 inches. Draw the fashionable waist line from C to 1 and to 2. 3 from C is 2 inches. 4 is the center between F and M. 5 from 4 is ■'4 inch. Draw a line from 5 to 1 . 6 from 1 is 2J'4 inches. 7 from 5 is the same length as 1 from 3 on line drawn from 5 through 6. Draw a line from 3 to 7. 8 from L is ',s inch on line drawn from O through L. 9 from 8 is /o on line squared up from 8. 10 from O is % inch. 11 from 9 is the sleeve length desired. (For the full length of a regular 36 size is 29 '2 inches.) 12 from 1 1 is the width of sleeve desired on line squared down from 1 1. (By a full length sleeve for regular 36 size is 6 inches. 13 is the center between I I and 12. 14 from 5 is 2 inches, more or less accordingly style or taste. 15 from 12 is '2 inch on line drawn from 14 through 12. Finish the back as represented. 16 from R is ' 1; inch. 17 from U is '4 inch. 18 from 16 is the same length as 1 1 from 9 on line drawn from 1 6 through I 7. 19 from 18 is the same width as 12 from 1 1 on line squared down from 18. 20 is the center between 18 and 19. 21 from 5 is the same length as 14 from 5. 22 from 21 is the same length as 15 from 14 on line drawn from 21 through 19. 23 from E is the same length as 2 from E on line drawn from X through E. Finish the front as represented. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 131 Waist with Kimono or Butterfly Sleeves ^23_ 1 32 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER One Piece Butterfly Waist First draft and cut out a waist pattern with kimono sleeves as described on page I 30, then continue as follow^s : Lay together the front and back at the shoulder seam so, that they should overlap '4 inch for taking the seams off and mark the w^aist from one piece. i -2-3-4-5-6-7-1 IS the front. 8-9-10-11-12-13-14-8 IS the back. Waist with Raglan Sleeve To produce this pattern, first mark a waist with Kimono sleeves from one piece as described above, then continue as follows : 15 is the center between 7 and 8. 16 from 15 is '4 inch, more or less accordingly style or taste. 1 7 from 1 5 is the same as 1 6 from 1 5 . 18 from 4 is 2 inches, more or less accorcingly style or taste. 19 from 1 t is the same as 1 8 from 4. Shape the seams from 1 6 to 18 and from I 7 to 19 accordingly style or taste as represented. 20 from 16 is the same length as the shaped line is from I 6 to 18 and is shaped inside accord- ingly fulness desired under the arm. 21 from 1 7 is the same length as the shaped line is from 1 7 to 19 and is shaped inside the same way as point 20. Finish the draft as represented. By cutting out the pattern allow for seams at lines 16-18, 16-20, 17-19 and 17-21. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 133 One Piece Butterfly Waist Waist with Raglan Sleeve 134 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Measurement for Skirts 1-1 Around the waist. 2-2 Around the hips about 6 inches below the waist line. 3-4 Front length till the floor. 1-5 Side length till the floor. 6-7 Back length till the floor. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 135 Measurement for Skirts 136 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Systematic Outline for Skirts Measurement Waist 26 inches. Hips 42 inches, Front length 43 ' ., inches. Back length 44 inches. A. Square both ways from A as represented. B from A is the the half waist measure plus 3 inches, in this case 1 6 inches. C from B is 4 inches on line squared out from B. Draw a line from A through C and longer. D from A is 6 inches. E from D is the half Hips measure on line drawn from D parallel with line A-C, in this case 21 mches. F is located by a line squared out from E. G from F is 1 '4 inches. H from A is the front length, in this case 42 inches. I from the center of line A-G is the side length, in this case 43 ' _, inches. J from G is the back length on line drawn from G through E. Finish the bottom as represented. NOTICE : In all Drafts — designed in this Systematic Outline — are seams NOT allowed. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 137 Systematic Outline for Skirts 138 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Two Gore Skirt High Waisted First lay up all points as described in Systematic Outline for Skirts, then continue as follows : 1 is the center of A-G. 2 from H is the center of H-J less 1 ' 2 inches. 3 is located by a line drawn from 2 through I . 4 from I is 2 inches. 5 from A is 2-2 inches. 6 from G is 21 '2 inches. Connect points 5-4-6. 7-8 is the difference between the actual half waist measure and the measure of line A-G, and is divided by point I of two equal parts. 9 is the center of 1-7. 10 is the center of 1-8. 1 1 is located by a line squared out from 9. 12 is located by a line squared out from 10. 13 from 3 is 1 inch. Finish the skirt as represented. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 139 Two Gore Skirt High Waisted 140 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Three or Four Gore Skirt High Waisted The draft for a tfiree or four gore skirt is the same as for a two gore skirt. (See page I 38.) The difference is in placing the seams. For a two gore skirt allow seams only on the sides, and no seam at the front and back. For a three gore skirt no seam on the front. Seams at the sides and back only. For a four gore skirt seams on the front, sides and back. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 141 Three or Four Gore Skirt High Waisted 142 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Four Gore (Panel) Skirt First lay up all points to measure as described in Systematical Outline for Skirts, then continue as follows: 1 from A is 3 inches. 2 from G is 3 inches. 3 from H is 5 inches. 4 from J is 5 inches. 5 is the centre of 1-2. 6 is the centre of D-E. Draw lines between 1-3,5-6 and 2-4 as represented. Measure the waist line from A to G and the difference between this measure and the actual waist measure is to be taken out in darts at points 1-5-2 as represented. For instance from A to G measures 18 inches; the half actual waist measure is 13 inches; the surplus is 5 inches. This amount is to be taken out in darts. At the front (point 1) take out the least and at the side (point 5) take out the most. In this case take out at point 1 a half inch, at point 2 two inches, and at point 5 two and half inches as represented. NOTICE: No seams or turning-in is allowed for in this Systematical Outline. Allow for all seams. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 143 Four Gore (Panel) Skirt 144 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Five Gore Skirt First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematic Outline, then continue as follows : 1 from A is 3 inches. 2 is the center between 1 and G. 3 from H is 5} 2 inches. (Twice as 1 -A less ^j, inch.) 4 from J is 3 inches. 5 is the center between 3 and 4. 6 is located by drawing a line from 2 to 5. The difference between the actual half waist measure and the measure of line A-G is to be taken out in darts as follows : For instance 5 inches is to be taken out. Take out \_i inch at point I equal divided on both sides, and 4'j inches at point 2 equal divided on both sides. 7 from 2 is 2^4 inches. 8 from 2 is 2/4 inches. 9 from 7 is '4 on line squared up from 7. 10 from 8 is '4 inch on line squared out from 8. 11 from 6 is '4 inch. Finish the draft as represented. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 145 Five Gore Skirt 146 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Six Gore BHI Skirt First lay up all points to measure as described in Systematic Outline for Skirts, then continue as follows : 1 from A is 3 inches. 3 from G is the same as 1 from A. 2 is the center between I and 3. 4 from H is twice as much as 1 from A less '^ inch, in this case 5' 2 inches. 5 from J is the same as 4 from H. 6 from 4 is the center between 4 and 5 less I o inches. Draw^ lines between 1-4, 2-6, 3-5. The difference betvi^een the measure of the waist line from A to G and the half actual waist measure is to be taken out in darts at points 1,2, 3. At the front take out the least and at the side take out the most dart. For istance 5 inches is the difference. Take out at point 1 ' _> inch, at point 2 2 ' ^ inches, at point 3 2 inches equal divided on both sides. Finish the draft as represented. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 147 Six Gore Skirt 148 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Seven Gore Skirt First lay up all points to measure as described in Systematical Outline for Skirts, then continue as follows: 1 from A is 3 inches. 2 from 1 is one-third of the line from 1 to G. 3 is the centre between 2 and G. 4 from H is 5 inches. 5 from 4 is 1 inch less then one-third of 4-5. 6 from 5 is 1 inch less than the half-way between 5 and J. Draw lines between l-4,2-5and 3-6 as represented. Measure the waist line from A to G and the difference between this measure and the actual waist measure is to be taken out in darts at points 1-2-3 as represented. For instance from A to G measures 18 inches; the half actual waist measure is 13 inches; the surplus is 5 inches. This amount is to be taken out in darts. At the front (point 1) take out the least and at the side (point 5) take out the most. In this case take out at point 1 a half inch, at point 2 two inches, and at point 5 two and half inches as represented. NOTICE: No seams or turning-in is allowed for in this Systematical Outline. Allow for all seams. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 149 Seven Gore Skirt 150 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 9 Gore Flare Skirt First lay up all points as described in Systematic Outline, then continue as follows : 1 from A is 2' j inches. 2-3-4 are located by dividing the waist line from 1 to G of four parts. 5 from H is twice as much as I from A less J^o inch, in this case 4^4 inches. 6 from J is about 2' 2 inches. 7-8-9 are located by dividing the bottom line from 5 to 6 of four parts. Draw lines between 1-5, 2-7, 3-8 4-9. Measure the waist line from A to G and the difference between this measure and the actual half waist measure is to be taken out in darts at points 1,2, 3, 4. For instance from A to G is 18 inches ; the actual half waist measure is I 3 inches, is surplus 5 inches. This 5 inches is to be taken out in darts ; at the front take out the least and at the side the most. In this case take out at point 1 '4 inch, at point 2 I '4 inches, at point 3 1^4 inches, at point 4 I '4 inches equal divided on both sides. For making the flares place points 10, 11,12, 1 3 as high desired accorcingly style or taste, and allow fulness at the bottom towards the back always more and less towards the front. For instance : 14 from 5 is ' 2 inch. 15 from 5 is I inch. 16 from 7 is 1 inch. 1 7 from 7 is 1 /^ inches. 18 from 8 is 1 1 2 inches. 19 from 8 is 2 inches. 20 from 9 is 2 inches. 21 from 9 is 2*2 inches. if you wish flaring at the back and a slit, proceed as follows : 22 from G is 1 3 inches. 23 from J is in this case 3 inches. Make the slit about 1 ' 2 inches wide and finish the draft as represented. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 15! 9 Gore Flare Skirt 152 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 1 1 Gore Flounce Skirt First lay up all points as described in Systematic Outline for Skirts, then continue as follows : 1 from A is 2 inches. 2, 3, 4, 5 are located by dividing the waist line from I to G of five parts. 6 from H is 3*2 inches. 7 from J is 2}-i inches. 8, 9, 10, 11 are located by dividing the bottom from 6 to 7 of five parts. Draw lines between 1-6, 2-8, 3-9 4-10, 5-11. Measure up the v^^aist line from A to G and the difference between this measure and the half actual waist measure is to be taken out in darts as represented. 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18 are located by marking the hight of the flounce. Cut out the flounce (18-! 2-H-J-18) in one piece. Allow fulness at the bottom of the flounce towards the back always more as represented by the shaded hues and cut out the new flounce from one piece as represented by double lines. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 153 1 1 Gore Flounce Skirt 1 54 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 13 Gore Plaited Skirt First lay up all points as described in Systematic Outline for Skirts, then continue as follows : 1 from A is I J ., inches, more or less accordingly style or taste. 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 are located by dividing the waist line from 1 to G of six equal parts. 7 from H is 3 inches, or twice as much as I is from A. 8 from J is V i inches. 9, 10, 11, 12, 13 are located by dividing the bottom of six equal parts. Connect points 1-7, 2-9, 3-10, 4-1 1 , 5-1 2, 6-1 3 for the side seams. The difference between the actual half waist measure and the measure of the waist line from E to G is to be taken out in darts divided at points 1 , 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 as represented. By applying an inverted plait in the back proceed as follows; 14 from G is 3 inches. 15 from J is 6 inches. Fold your paper at line G-J till line 14-15 and trace over the waist line, that the plait should not be short at the waist line. Allow plaits at each side of the gores as deep plaits desired. For instance at the top 1 ' - inches, and at the bottom 2 ' , inches on each side. Finish the skirt as represented. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 155 13 Gore Plaited Skirt 156 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Circular Skirt A. Draw a straight-line as from A to I . B from A is the half waist measure. C from B is 6 inches. D from A is 2 inches. E from D is 1 inch on line square down from D. F is located by a line sweeped from B, pivoting at E, and is from B the half Waist measure. G is located by a line sweeped from C, pivoting at E, and is from C the half Hip measure plus ^ 2 inch. 1 from B is the front length. 2 from F is the back length. 3 is the center of B-F. 4 from 3 is the side length, and is from 1 about 2 inches less than from the middle of 1-2. Circular Skirt with One Dart First draft a Circular Skirt as described above, then continue on the same draft as follows: 5 is located by drawing a line from 3 to 4. 6 from 5 is I inch. 7 from 4 is the half of fulness to be taken out. 8 from 4 is the same as 7 from 4. Cut out the fulness between 8-6-7, and join together lines 6-7 with 6-8 to produce tlie dart at the waist line as represented by points 3-6-3. NOTICE : On this draft are seams NOT allowed. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 157 Circular Skirt Circular Skirt with One Dart 1 58 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Circular Skirt in Gores First draw a plain skirt in gores as many gores desired. Allow at the bottom to each gore fulness as much more desired than the bottom width of the Systematical Outline is, and draw straight lines from the hip line down to the bottom as represented. That the fulness should fall nicely, allow always more fulness towards the back and less towards the front. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 159 Circular Skirt in Gores 160 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Princess Skirt This draft represents a seven gore princess skirt. First lay up all points as described in Systematic Outline for Skirts, then continue as follows : 1 from A is 3 inches. 2 and 3 are located by dividing the waist line from 1 to G of three equal parts. 4 from H is twice as much as 1 from A less ' ^ inch. 5 from J is 2' J inches. 6 and 7 are located by dividing the bottom from 4 to 5 of three equal parts. 8-9-10 are located by drawing lines from 1 to 4, 2 to 6, 3 to 7. 11-12-13-14-15-16 are located by taking out darts at points 1,2 3, as described on previous pages. 17-18-19-20 are the center of each gore at the hip line. Make the girdle as high desired. For instance : 21 from A is 3 inches. 22 from 2 is 2 ' 2 inches. 23 from G is 3'j inches. 24 is located by drawing a line from 18 through 12. 25 is located by drawing a line from I 7 through I I . 26 is located by drawing a line from 18 through I 3. 27 is located by drawing a line from 19 through 14. 28 is located by drawing a line from 19 through 15. 29 is located by drawing a line from 20 through 1 6. Finish the draft as represented. JHE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER ]6I Princess Skirt 162 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Systematic Outline for Skirts with fixed bottom width First lay up all points to measure as described in Systemati; Outline for Skirts (page 1 36), then continue as follows : 1 from H is the fixed bottom width. 2 is located by drawing a line from 1 through E. 3 from 2 is the same as 2 from G on line drawn from 1 through E. 4 is the center between A-G. Draw a line from 4 through 3. 5 from 3 is 6 inches. 6 is the center between D-E. Draw a line from 6 through 5. 7 from 6 is the same as E from 6 on line drawn from 6 through 5. 8 is located by drawing a line from 1 through 7. Measure the back length from 8 to I and finish the waist and bottom lines as represented. This Systematic outline can be used to produce Circular Skirts too. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 163 Systematic Outline for Skirts with fixed bottom width 164 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Skirt for Stout Measurement Measures : Waist 40 inches. Front length 40 inches. Hips 50 inches. Side length 39 inches. Back length 38 inches. To Draft A. Square both ways from A as represented. B from A is the half waist measure plus 3 inches, in this case 23 inches. C from B is 2 inches on line squared out from B. Draw a line from A through C. D from A is 6 inches. E from D is the half hip measure, in this case 25 inches on line drawn from D parallel with hne A-C. F is located by a line sqared out from E. G from F is I I4 inches. H from A is the front length measure, in this case 40 inches. 1 from the middle of line A-G is the side length, in this case 39 inches. J is located by drawing a Hne from G through E and is from G the back length, in this case 38 inches. This diagram represents for instant a five gore stout skirt. 1 from A is the width desired for the front panel, in this case 4 inches. 2 is the center between I and G. 3 from H is twice as much as 1 from A less ' 2 inch, in this case 7' j inches. 4 is the center between 3 and J. Draw lines from 1 to 3 and from 2 to 4. The difference between the measure of the waist line from A to G and the half actual waist measure is to be taken out in Darts at points 1 and I as represented. Note that the front dart by stout skirts is larger then by normal skirts. To make wider the bottom, allow fulness at points 3 and 4. Bear in mind that fulness is to be allowed towards the back always more. For instance : 5 from 3 is 1 ' j inches. 6 from 3 is 1 /4 inches. 7 from 4 is 234 inches. 8 from 4 is 2/2 inches. Draw lines from the hip line to points 5, 6, 7, 8 and finish the draft as represented. THEAMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 165 Skirt for Stout Measurement 166 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Princess Slip First cut out a tight-fitting or a semi-fitting garment till the hip line, then mark each gore seperate on a piece of paper as represented. This is a tight-fitting french seam princess slip. A-B, CD, E-F, G H, IJ is the waist line. K-L, M-N, O-P, Q-R, S-T is the hip line. To continue the lines from the hip line down proceed as follows : 1 from C is ' 2 inch. 2 from D is ' 2 inch. 3 from E is ' j inch. 4 from F is '4 inch. 5 from G is I inch. Draw lines from A through K, from B through L, from I through M, from 2 through N, from 3 through O, from 4 through P, from 3 through Q, from H through R. from 1 through S, from J through T. Finish the length as desired. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 167 Princess Slip 168 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER This System is taught by the author only. It has been copyrighted, and any infringement will be legally contested. PART TWO MISSES' GARMENTS !70 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER The System for Misses' Garments is the same as for Womans' Garments; it is only constructed, by special measurement. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Table of Proportionate Measurements For Misses* Sizes 171 SIZE (AGE) 14 16 18 20 Height 5 Feet 2 in. 6U 14', 35 23 37 13 13 17 39 40', ■!i 5 Feet 4 in. 7 15 37 24 39 13', 13', 17', 40 41', /2 5 Feet 6 in. 7'4 15', 39 25 41 14 14 18 41 42', 43 5 Feet 6 in. 7'4 15', 41 26 43 14', 14', IS 41 42', 43 Scye depth Back waist length Bust Waist Hips Neck Back width Sleeve (Inside seam). CO Front length Side length Back length 172 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Systematical Outline For Misses' Garments Measurement Scye depth 7 inches. Back waist-length 1 5 inches. Bust 37 inches. Waist 24 inches. Hips 39 inches. Sleeve I7'> inches. To Draft A. Draw a straight line as from A to D. B from A is the Scye depth measure, in this case 7 inches. C from A is the Back waist-length measure, in this case 1 5 inches. Dfrom C is 6 inches always. Square out from A for the top line, from B for the Bust line, from C for the waist line and from D for the hip line as repre- sented. E from B is the half Bust measure and 4 inches more, in this case 22' j inches. F is the half-way between B and E. G is the half-way between E and F. H is the half-way between B and F.] I from A is 5 ' 2 inches always. Square out from E, F, G and 1 as repre- sented. J from 1 is 2'4 inches. K from A is the half of the distance from B to H, in this case 2 '4i inches. Square out from K as represented. L is locatated by drawing a line from A to J. M from H is 2 inches. Square out from M as represented. N from M is 's inch less than the Scye depth measure, in this case 6's inches. O from N is ' o inch on line drawn from L through N. P is the half-way between M and N. Q from 1 is "4 inch. R is located by drawing a line from A through Q. S from G is 3*4 inches. Square out from S as represented. T from S is 1 '4 inches less than the distance from G to R. U from R is s inch more than the distance from L to O on line drawn from R through T. Cut off the point at R of 's inch as represented. V from S is 2 inches. Connect U-V. W from R is 2 inches. Square out froin W as represented. X from W is '4 inch more than the distance from A to K, in this case 3'x inches. Y is located by a line squared out from E. Z is located by a line squared out from F. Notice designed in this Systematical Outline arc seasn-aliowance-s In all Diagrams of % inch allowed. !n all Diagrams designed in this Systen'aticai Outline is the half Waist meas- ure 7 inches less than the half Bust measure. (See Waist Suppression on page 1 74.) In all Diagrams designed in this Systematical Outline is the half Hips meas- ure ! 1 inch more than the half Bust measure. (See Hips Development on page 1 74.) THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 173 Systematic Outline For Misses' Garments '# Y ^h ^1 % 174 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Tight Fitting French Seam For Misses' Garments First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematical Outline, then continue as folllows : 1 from Z is ' ^ inch. 2 from Y is 2'4 inches. Draw lines from C to I and from I through 2 for the fashionable waist line as represented. 3 from C is 2 inches. 4 from D is I '4 inches. 5 from O is '4 inch. 6 from P is '4 inch. Draw a line from 5 to 6. 7 is the half-way betw^een 5 and L, or make the width to style or taste. 8 from 3 is 1 inch less than A to K. 9 is located by drawing a line from 7 to 8 as represented. fr 6 the fr 13 rep- the ine from frc 10 from 4 1 1 from 8 12 from 10 13 from F 14 from ' inch more than 3 to 8. 4 inch. I inch. 4 inch. _ _ _ 4 inch. 15 is located by drawing a line from 13 through 14. 16 is the half-way between 9 and 1 3. 17 is half-way between 1 I and 14. 18 is located by drawing a line from 16 through 1 7. 19 from 1 7 is Vj inch. 20 from I 7 is 'a inch. 21 from 1 8 is 1 inch. 22 from 1 8 is I inch. 23 from 13 is '2 inch. 24 from 7 is '.'x inch, and i from the line L-5. inch higher 25 from 5 is 'x inch, and length as O from P. 26 from 1 6 is I inch. 27 from 26 is 's inch for seam. Finish the back and side gores resented. 28 from 14 is '4 inch, and length as 1 4 from I 3. 29 from 15 is 1 ' ^ inches. 30 from 2 is I '4 inches. 31 IS located by drawing a through 30. 32 from 31 is 's inch. 33 from G is 3 '4 inches. 34 from 33 is 2 inches on line 33 parallel with line 1-2. 35 is located by drawling a line from 34 par- allel with line E-30. 36 from 35 is I /4 inches. 37 from 35 is 2;'4 inches. 38 from 34 is the same length as 36 from 34. 39 is located by drawing a line from 36 par- allel with line E-31. 40 from 39 is 4 '4 inches. 41 from R is the same width as L to 7. Draw a line from 41 to 34. 42 from 41 is '4 inch for seams. Draw a line from 42 parallel with line 41-34. 43 from 1 4 is the same length as 29 from 28. 44 from 40 is 1'4 inches. 45 from 36 is the same length as 44 from 38. Finish the front as represented. Waist Suppression By applying this System the half Waist measure is 7 inches less than the half Bust measure. For instance by 37 Bust figure the half waist as follows: Half Bust 17' ^ less 7 is II '^ the half waist. Now change the draft a follows : Systematic half Waist measure is ! I ' .) inches. Actual half Waist measure is 12 inches. There is missing y:-, inch in Waist. This ^ .', inch is to be added to the waist and also to the hlips by the dart at points 37 and 40. Point 37 from 35 will be only 2 '4 inches, and point 40 from 39 is '.'4 inches. Hip Development By applying this System the half Hip measure is ' .1 inch more than the half Bust measure; in this case the Systematic Hip measure is 19 inches. By correcting the Waist measure the half hlip measure gained ],<^inc'i-i, therefore the half Hip measure is now H j^ inches, and as the actual half hip measure is also IS: ' -, inches, there is nothing else to change at the Hip. If the actual half Hip measure would be for instance 20 inches, a half inch ought to be added at the points 43, 29, 21, 22 equal divided and vica verse. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 175 Tight Fitting French Seam For Misses' Garments 1 76 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Semi-Fitting with dart in Front For Misses' Sizes First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematic Outline for Misses' Garments, then continue as follows : 1 from Z is 1-2 inch. 2 from Y is 2/i inches. Draw lines from C to I and from 1 through 2 for the fashionable waist line as represented. 3 from C is I /o inches. 4 from 3 is /4 inch. 5 from D is i inch. 6 from P is '^4 inch. 7 from H is j'4 inch. 8 from 4 is I inch more than the distance from A to K. 9 from 3 is '4 inch more than the distance from 4 to 8 Finish the back as represented. 10 from 8 is /o inch. 1 1 from 9 is 1 /o inches. 12 from 6 is 34 inch. 13 from F is '4 inch. 14 from 1 is '4 inch. 15 is located bo drawing a line from 1 3 through 14. 16 from 14 is '2 inch. Finish the side gore as represented. 1 7 from 1 is !'2 inch, and is from F the same length as 1 6 from I 3. 18 from 1 5 is 1 inch. 19 from 2 is 2 inches. Draw line from E through 9. 20 from G is 3, '4 inches. 21 from 20 is 1 ' j inches on line drawn parallel with line E-19 22 is located by drawing a line from 2 1 parallel with line E- 1 9. 23 is located by drawing a line from 21 parallel with line E-19. 24 from 22 is Vo inch. 25 frcm 24 is 3 inches. 26 from 21 is the same length as 24 from 21. 27 from 23 is j'^ inch. 28 from 27 is 3/4 inches. Finish the front as represented. 29 from 16 is the same length as 18 from I 7. 30 from 28 is I '4 inches. 31 from 24 is the same length as 30 from 26. Finish the bottom as represented. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 177 Semi-Fitting with dart in Front For Misses' Sizes 1 78 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Sac Coat with Loose Front For Misses' Sizes First lay up all points to your meaure as described in Systematic Outline, then continue as follows : 1 from Z is ' 2 inch. 2 from Y is 2^4 inches. Draw lines from C to I and from 1 to 2 for the fashionable waist line as represented. 3 from C is I /'o inches. 4 from 3 is ^ inch. 5 from D is 1 inch. 6 from M is '4 inch. 7 from 6 is ,'4 inch. 8 from 4 is 3 inches more than K from A. 9 is located by drawing a curved line from 7 to 8 as represented. 10 from 5 is '4 inch more than 8 from 4. Finish the back as represented. 11 from 8 is 3^2 inch. 12 from 10 is I ■^4 inches. 13 from F is y> inch. 14 from 1 is ' 2 inch. 15 from 14 is 2' 2 inches and is located by drawing a line from 13 through 14, 16 from I 4 is 's inch. 1 7 from 1 4 is % inch. 18 from 2 is '2 inch. 19 from A is the length of garment desired. 20 is located on line squared out from 19. 21 is located by drawing a line from E through 18. 22 from I 1 is the same length as 20 from 8. 23 from R is ! inch. 24 is located by a line squared down from S and is 2 '2 inches below the fashionable waist line. 25 from 24 is /^ inch. 26 is located by drawing a line from 25 through I 5 and is the half of the pocket size, in this case 3 inches. 27 is located by drawing a line from 26 through 25 and is the full pocket size, in this case 6 inches. 28 from S is 1 inch. 29 from G is ' 2 inch. 30 is located by drawing a line from 28 through 29, and is in this case 5 inches long. Finish the draft as represented. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 179 Sac Coat with Loose Front Fcr Misses' Sizes 180 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Loose Box Coat For Misses' Sizes First lay up all points as desca-ibed in Systematica] Outline for Misses' sizes, then continue as follows : 1 from Z is '2 inch. 2 from Y is 2':^ inches. Draw lines from C to 1 and from I through 2 as represented. 3 is the half way between F and M. 4 from 3 is 's inch. 5 from 3 is 's; inch. 6 from 1 is '.^ inch more than 5 from F. 7 from 6 is I '_| inches. 8 from C is '4 9 from A is ' I 10 from L is '4 1 1 from R is ' I 12 from 2 is ' _; nch. nch. nch. nch. nch. Draw a line from E through 12. 13 from A is the length of garment desired. 14 is located by a line squared out frorh 1 3. 15 from 14 is 'o inch. 16 from 4 is the same length as I 5 from 5. 17 is located by a line squeired out from 1 3. 18 from I 7 is 1 ' 4 inches. 19 from 1 I is I inch. Allow for buiton stand 3 inches for single breasted, 4 inches for double breasted. Finish the draft as represented. If you wish to have the back center without any seam, take off 's inch at the back center. JTH E AME RICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 181 Loose Box Coat For Misses' Sizes 82 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Blouse For Misses' Sizes First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematic Outline for Misses' Sizes, then continue as follows : 1 from Z is ,'2 inch. 2 from Y is 2*4 inches. Draw lines from C to I and from I to 2 for the fashionable waist line as represented. 3 from C is 2 inches. 4 is the half-way between F and M. 5 from 4 is '4 inch. 6 from 1 is 4 inches. Finish the back as represented 7 from 4 is '4 inch. 8 is located by drawing a line from X through E, and is from E the same length as 2 from E. Finish the front as represented. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 183 Blouse For Misses' Sizes 184 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Sleeve Construction for Misses* Garments Measurement for size 16 Bust 37 inches. Sleeve length (inside seam) l?'^ inches. 1 Draw a straight line as from 1 to 2. 2 from I is the sleeve length measure. Square a line up from 2. 3 from I is a quarter of the full bust measure on line squared up from I plus I inch. 4 is located by a line squared out from 3 as represented. 5 is the center of 1-2. 6 is located by a line squared up from 5. 7 is the center of 2-4. 8 is the center of i-3. Square out a line from 8 as represented. 9 from 8 is 2 inches. 10 from 8 is the same length as 8 from I . 1 1 from 1 is 2 inches. Draw lines between 11-10 and from I through 3. 12 is the center of 10-11. 13 is the center of 3-10. 14 from 12 is U inch. 15 from 1 3 is I'i inches. 16 from 3 is ' 2 inch. 17 from 3 is ' J inch. 18 from 6 is 2 inches. 19 from 5 is 3 inches. 20 from 7 is 2 inches. Draw a line from 4 through 20. 21 from 20 is I inch. 22 from 20 is I inch. 23 from 4 is ' J inch. 24 from 21 is ' J inch. Draw all construction lines as represented. Sleeve for Misses' Garments First lay up all points to measure as described above, then continue as follows Shape the top sleeve as represented by lines between I 1-10-1 7-18-4-22-5-1 I. Shape the under sleeve as represented by lines between 9-16-18-23-24-19-9. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 185 Sleeve Construction for Misses* Garments 22 23^; »4 6 ^^ 1 8 l/21 *^^^~^^--^ 20 ^~^-..„^^^^~" 19 4 2 ^^"^ ■ ^1 5 17- 16 13' -1031 n Sleeve for Misses' Garments 0*3 0C p4 JIJ^ , 9 6 ^^^^^---^^6 r \>v 18 V 13\ \ /^1 \ \ \ 24^^^ ^^^"^^-^ ^ H J1Q 8< 1 — 9 n 22"*"^^ ^\^ 19 'W i 2 ^^^'"'^^^ 5 1 \\J^ 186 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Systematic Outline for Misses* Skirts Measurement Waist 24 inches, Hips 39 inches, Front length 40 inches, Side length 41/2 inches. Back length 42 inches. A. Square both ways from A as represented. B from A is the half waist measure plus 3 inches,, in this case 1 5 inches. C from B is 4 inches on line squared out from B. Draw a line from A through C and longer. D from A is 6 inches. E from D is the half Hips measure on line drawn from D parallel with line A-C. in this case 19' 2 inches. F is located by a line sqared out from E. G from F is 1 '4 inches. H from A is the front length, in this case 40 inches. I from the center of line A-G is the side length, in this case 41 ' j inches.. J from G is the back length on line drawn from G through E, in this case 42 inches. Finish the bottom as represented. NOTICE : In all Drafts — designed in this Systematic Outline — are seams NOT allowed. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 187 Systematic Outline for Misses* Skirts THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Seven Gore Skirt For Misses' Sizes First lay up all points as described in Systematic Outline for Misses' skirts, then continue as follows : 1 from A is 3 inches. 2 from 1 is one-third of the line from ( to G. 3 is the center between 2 and G. 4 from H is 5 ' 2 inches. 5 from 4 is 1 inch less then one-third of 4-5. 6 from 5 is 1 inch less than the half-way between 5 and J. Draw lines between I -4, 2-5 and 3-6 as represented. Measure the waist line from A to G and the difference bet^^een this measure and the half actual waist measure is to be taken out in darts at points 1-2-3 as represented. At the front (point I) take out the least and at the side (point 5) take out the most dart. NOTICE : No seams or turning are allowed. Allow for all seams. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER l«9 Seven Gore Skirt For Misses' Sizes 190 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Collars for Misses' Garments are constructed the same way as for Womens' Garments. PART THREE JUNIORS' GARMENTS 192 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER The System for Juniors Garments' is the same as for Womans' Garments; it is only constructed by special measurement. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 193 Table of Proportionate Measurements For Juniors' Sizes SIZE (AGE) 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 Height 5 Feet 6% 13?4 32 23 34 12i.> 12'.. 15', 30 31 31 5 Feet 1 in. 6M 14 33 23', 35 12*4 16 32 33 33 5 Feet 2 in. 6% 14'4 34 24 36 13 13 16' o 34 35 35 5 Feet 3 in. 6% 14', 35 24', 37 13'4 13'4 17 36 37 37 5 Feet 4 in. 6% 14^\i 36 25 38 13', 13', 17', 38 39 39 5 Feet 5 in. 7 15 37 25', 39 13'4 13'4 18 40 41 41 5 Feet 6 in. 7',s 15^i 38 26 40 14 14 18 42 43 43 Scye depth Back waist length Bust Waist Hips Neck Back width Sleeve (Inside seam). en Front length Side length Back length 194 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Semi-Fitting French Seam For Juniors' Sizes First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematic Outline (page 1 72), then continue as follows : 1 from Z is 34 inch. 2 from Y is 2^ inches. Draw lines from C to 1 and from 1 through 2 for the fashionable w^aist line as represented. 3 from C is 1 /i> inches. 4 from 3 is J4 inch. 5 frorr, D is I inch. 6 from O is /4 inch. 7 from P is '4 inch. Draw a line from 6 to 7. 8 is the half-way between 7 and 4, or make the width to style or taste. 9 from 4 is I inch more than the distance from A to K. 10 from 5 is '4 inch more than the distance from 4 to 9. 1 1 is located by drawing a line from 8 to 9 as represented. Finish the back as represented. 12 from 9 is /-o inch. 13 from 1 is I /^ inches. 14 from F is /4 inch. 15 from I is ?4 inch. 16 is located by drawing a line from 14 through 15, 17 from 1 5 is 34 inch. 18 from 8 is % inch. 19 from b is % inch. 20 from 1 8 is 34 inch. 21 from 7 is the same length as O from P. Finish the side gore as represented. 22 from 1 is ' 2 inch. 23 from 1 6 is 1 inch. 24 from 2 is 2 inches. 25 from G is 334 inches. 26 from 25 is I 34 inches on line drawn from 25 parallel with line 1-2. 27 is located by draw^ing a line from ^6 parallel with line E-24. 28 is located by draw^ing a line from 26 through 27. 29 from 27 is '^ inch. 30 from 28 is 's inch. 31 from 29 is 3 inches. 32 from 26 is the same length as 29 from 26. 33 from 30 is 3''4 inches. 34 from R is the same width as L to 8. Draw a line from from 34 to 26. 35 from 34 is '4 inch for seams. Draw a line from 35 parallel with line 34-26. 36 from 1 6 is 34 inch. 37 from 22 is the same length as 36 from 17. 38 fron 33 is I '4 inches. 39 from 29 is the same length as 38 from 32. Finish the front and bottom as repre- sented. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 195 Semi-Fitting French Seam For Juniors' Sizes 196 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Loose Box Coat For Juniors' Sizes First lay up all points as described in Systematic Outline (page I 72), then continue as follows: 1 from Z is ' j inch. 2 from Y is 2 Jo inches. Draw lines from C to I and from I through 2 as represented. 3 is the half-way between F and M. 4 from 3 is % inch. 5 from 3 is % inch. 6 from 1 is U inch more than 5 from F. 7 from 6 is I '4 inches. 8 from C is % inch. 9 from A is "4 inch. 10 from L is J 4 inch. 1 1 from R is % inch. 12 from 2 is '2 inch. Draw a line from E through 12. 13 from A is the length of garment desired. 14 is located by a line sqared out from I 3, 15 from 14 is V2 inch. 16 from 4 is the same length as 1 5 from 5. 17 is located by a line squared out from 13. 18 from 1 7 is 1 j/4 inches. 19 from 1! is 1 inch. Allow for button stand 2 to 3 inches for single breasted, and 3 to 4 inches for double breasted. Finish the draft as represented. If you wish to have the back center without any seam, take off '1^ inch at the back center. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 197 Loose Box Coat For Juniors' Sizes 198 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Blouse For Juniors' Sizes First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematic Outline for Misses' Sizes, then continue as follows : 1 from Z is ' j inch. 2 from Y is lU inches. Draw lines from C to 1 and from I to 2 for the fashionable waist line as represented. 3 from C is 2 inches. 4 is the half-way between F and M. 5 from 4 is '4 inch. 6 from I is 4 inches. Finish the back as represented. 7 from 4 is '4 inch. 8 is located by drawing a line from X through E, and is from E the same length as 2 from E. Finish the front as represented. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 199 Blouse For Juniors' Sizes 200 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Sleeve Construction for Juniors' Garments Measurement for Size 15 Bust 35 inches. Sleeve length (inside seam) I 7 inches. 1 Draw a straight line as from 1 to 2. 2 from 1 is the sleeve length measure. Square a line up from 2. 3 frorr, 1 is a quarter of the full bust measure on line squared up from I plus 1 inch. 4 is located by a line squared out from 3 as represented. 5 is the center of 1 2. 6 is located by a line squared up from 5. 7 is the center of 2-4. 8 is the center of 1-3. Square out a line from 8 as represented. 9 from 8 is 2 inches. 10 from 8 is the same length as 8 from 1 . 1 1 from I is 2 inches. Draw lines between 11-10 and from 10 through 3, 12 is the center of 10-11. 13 is the center of 3-10. 14 from 12 is /4 inch. 15 from I 3 is 1 inch. 16 from 3 is /4 inch. 1 7 from 3 is /4 inch. 18 from 6 is 2 inches. 19 from 5 is 3 inches. 20 from 7 is 2 inches. Draw a line from 4 through 20. 21 from 20 is 1 inch. 22 from 20 is 1 inch. 23 from 4 is /^ inch. 24 from 21 is ' 2 inch. Draw all contruction lines as represented. Sleeve for Juniors' Garments First lay up all points to measure as described above, then continue as follows Shape the top sleeve as represented by lines between 11-10-17-18-4-22-5-1 1. Shape the under sleeve as represented by lines between 9-16-18-23-24-19-9- THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 201 Sleeve Construction for Juniors^ Garments Sleeve for Juniors' Garments 23f*J r* Vim fc^ 6 ^^^---^6 ^ \/\ 18 \ '3\ \ //21 \ \ \ 24^"*^->^ ►7^-^^,,^ ^ H J20 8< 9 /f 22"""^^^ 19 // < 2 ^^^^^^^===Sft=^ w ^ 5 1 r— wj/^ 202 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Juniors' Five Gore Skirt Measurement Waist 24/^ inches. Hips 37 inches, Front length 36 inches. Side length 37 inches. Back length 37 inches. A. Square both ways from A as represented. B from A is the half waist measure plus 3 inches, in this case 15'4 inches. C from B is 4 inches on line squared out from B. Draw a line from A through C and longer. D from A is 6 inches. E from D is the half Hips measure on line drawn from D parallel with line A-C, in this case 18/2 inches. F is located by a line squared out from E. G from F is 1 H inches. H from A is the front length, in this case 36 inches. I from the center of line A-G is the side length, in this case 37 inches. J from G is the back length on line drawn from G through E, in this ceise 37 inches. Finish the bottom as represented. 1 from A is 3 inches. 2 is the center between 1 and G. 3 from H is 3' 2 inches. (Twice as 1-A less '2 inch.) 4 from J is 3 inches. 5 is the center between 3 and 4. 6 is located by drawing a line from 2 to 5. The difference betw^een the actual half waist measure and the measure of line A-G is to be taken out in darts as follows : For instance A-G is I 7 inches. The half actual w^aist measure is 12*4 inches. Surplus is 4 ,'4 inches. Take out '2 inch at point 1 equal divided on both sides, and 4*4 inches at point 2 equal divided on both sides. 7 from 2 is 2Js inches. 8 from 2 is 2! s inches. 9 from 7 is ','4 inch on line squared up from 7. 10 from 8 is J4 inch on line squared up from 8. 1 1 from 6 is "4 inch. Finish the draft as represented. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 203 Juniors' Five Gore Skirt 204 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Juniors* Circular Skirt Measurement Waist 24' 2 inches, Hips 37 inches, Front length 36 inches. Side length 37 inches, Back length 37 inches. A. Square both ways from A as represented. B from A is the half waist measure plus 3 inches, in this case 1 5 '4 inches. C from B is 4 inches on line squared out from B. Draw a line from A through C and longer. D from A is 6 inches. E from D is the half Hips measure on line drawn from D parallel with line A-C. in this case 1 8' 2 inches. F is located by a line squared out from E. G from F is 1 H inches. H from A is the front length, in this case 36 inches. I from the center of line A-G is the side length, in this ens? 37 inches. J from G is the back length on line drawn from G through h., in this case 37 inches. Finish the bottom as represented. 1 from H is the fixed bottom width. 2 is located by drawing a line from 1 through E. 3 from 2 is the same as 2 from G on line drawn from 1 through E. 4 is the center between A-G. Draw a line from 4 through 3. 5 from 3 is 6 inches. 6 is the center between D-E. Draw a line from 6 through 5. 7 from 6 is the same as E from 6 on line drawn from 6 through 5. ^ 8 is located by draw^ing a line from 1 through 7. Measure the back length from 8 to 1 and finish the waist and bottom lines as represented. Measure up the waist line from A to 8, and the difference between this measure and the actual half waist measure is to be taken out in dart or darts as described on previous pages. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 205 Juniors' Circular Skirt 206 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Collars for Juniors' Garments are constructed the same way as for Womens' Garments. PART FOUR CHILDRENS' GARMENTS 208 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Measurement for Children are taken in the same way as for Women, Misses and Juniors. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 209 Table of Proportionate Measurements For Childrens' Sizes SIZE (AGE) Normal Sizes Intermediate Sizes 6 8 10 12 14 6 7 8 9 10 Height .{ l-rcl S in. 5'4 11 26 24 32 11', 10', 12 19 19 19 1 I-Cci 5', 12 27', 25 33', 12 11 13 21 21 21 1 l-rcl 1 ill 5^'4 13 29 26 35 12', 11', 14 23 23 23 1 I'.M'I N in. 6 14 30', 27 36', 13 12 15 25 25 25 :. i-iM'i 6'4 15 32 28 38 13', 12', 16 27 27 27 :i 1- HI in. 5^'s 11', 26 24 32 11' • 10', 12', 20 20 20 1 l-ci-l 5', 12 26^4 24', 32*4 ir'4 10 s 13 21 21 21 i Fi-ol ■J ill. 5-',s 12', 27', 25 33', 12 11 13', 22 22 22 1 I'crl 1 in. 5^ 13 28'4 25', 34 '4 12'4 I1'4 14 23 23 23 4 Ki'fl (i in. 5'/s 13', 29 26 35 12', 11)1, 14', 24 24 24 Scye depth Back waist length Breast Waist Hips Neck Back width Sleeve (Inside seam) Front length Side length Back length 210 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Systematic Outline For Childrens' Sizes Measurement Breast 29 inches. Waist 26 inches, Hips 35 inches, Scye depth 3/4 inches, Back waist length 1 3 inches. To Draft A. Square both ways from A as represented. B from A is one third of the full Breast meas- ure, in this case 9'',s inches. Cfr B D from C is the Scye depth mesure, in this case 5 '4 inches. (In lack of the Scye depth measure is D from C /^ inch more than the center of A-C.) E from D is the back waist length measure. in this case 1 3 inches. F From E is 4 inches. Square out lines from C for the Breast line, from E for the waist line and from F for the Hip line as represented. G from C is the half Breast measure plus 3'^s inches, in this case (i4!j plus 3',s) 18),s inches. H from C is the same as C from A. I is located by a line squared out from H. J from 1 is the same as D from C, in this case 5/4 inches. K from D is one quarter part of line drawn from D to I, in this case 2 '4 inches. Draw a line from K to J. L is the center betw^een C-H. M from L is 1 '4 inches. N is located by a line squared up from M, O from N is ' 2 inch. P is the center betwen M-N. Draw a tine from O to P. Q from H is '2 inch more than the center between H-G, in this case 4' 2 inches. R is located by a line squared up from Q. S from R is "4 inch less than D-K, in this case 2 inches. T from J is I inch, and is from S on line drawn from S through T 's inch longer than line K-D, this 'k inch is to be taken off in corner at point S as represented. U from H is I '^4 inches. V from U is I "4 inches on line squared out from U. Draw a line from T to V, W from S is 2 inches. X from W is the same as D-K on line squared out from W. Y from G is ' s inch. Z is located by drawing a line from X through Y. NOTICE: In all Diagrams inch seams allowed. designed in this Systematic Outline - are Table of Aliquot Parts Breast Measure 22 '4 11 'k 23 11 '2 7->, 23 '4 24 '2 i2'4 8'/,s 25'4 12's 26 13 8's 26'4 13'h 8Js 27 '2 13'4 9'x 28I4 14'« 9's 29 14' 2 9's 30' 2 15'4 lO's 32 16 10' X One Half One Third THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 221 Systematic Outline For Childrens' Sizes 212 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Childrens' Tight-Fitting First lay up all points as described in Systematic Outline for Childrens' Sizes (page 2 1 0), then continue as follows: 1 from E is 1'2 inches. 2 from F is I ^ « inches. 3 from I is "4 inch less than K. from D. 4 from 2 is '4 inch more than 3 from 1. Finish the back as represented. 5 from 3 is '2 inch. 6 from 4 is ' 2 inch. 7 is located by a line squared down from H. 8 is lacated by a line squared down from H. 9 is the center between H-L. 10 is the center between 5-7. 1 1 is located by a line drawn from 9 through 10. 12 from 10 is ^4 inch. 13 from I I is ^2 inch. 14 from 10 is 1 4 inch. 15 from 1 I is j/o inch. 16 from 8 is ^s inch. 17 from P is ' 2 inch. 18 from 9 is •'4 inch. Finish the side gores as represented. 19 from 7 is ' 2 inch. 20 from 8 is ''.s inch. 21 from Q is 2^2 inches on line draw^n from Q parallel with line X-Z. 22 is located by a line drawn from Q through 2 I . 23 is located by a line drawn from Q through 2 I . 24 from 23 is 's inch. 25 from 23 is 's inch. Finish the front as represented. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Childrens* Tight-Fitting 213 214 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Childrens* Semi-Fitting First lay up all points as described in Systematic Outline for Childrens' Sizes (page 2 10), then continue as follows : 1 from E is 1^2 inches, from F is 1 3 s inches. 3 from I is '4 inch more than K from D. 4 from 2 is ■/4 inch more than 3 from 1 . 5 from L is '4 inch. 6 from P is '4 inch. Finish the back as represented. 7 from 3 is 1 2 inch. 8 from 4 is '4 inch. 9 from 6 is '2 inch. 10 from H is '4 inch. 1 1 is located by a line squared down from 1 0. 12 is located by a line squared down from 10. 13 from 1 I is 's inch. 14 from 12 is I inch. Finish the side gore as represented. 15 from 11 is 'n inch. 16 from 1 2 is 1 inch. Finish the front as represented. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 215 Childrens' Semi-Fitting 216 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Childrens' Sack Coat First lay up all points as described in Systematic Outline for Childrens' Sizes (page 210), then continue as follows i 1 from E is 1 ^ -> inches. 2 from F is 1 ' s inches. 3 from M is '4 inch. 4 from 1 is 1 '4 inches less than M from C. 5 from 2 is :'4 inch more than 4 from 1 . 6 from 3 is '4 inch on line drawn from 4 through 3. Finish the back as represented. 7 from 3 is :'4 inch. 8 from 4 is J/o inch. 9 from 5 is '4 inch. 10 from 7 is '4 inch on line drawn from 8 through 7. 1 1 from S is '4 inch. 12 is located by a line drawn from X through Y. 13 from 1 2 is '4 inch. For button stand allow Po to 2 inches for single breasted, 2^2 to 3'o inches for doubfe breasted. Finish the front as represented. ' THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Childrens' Sack Coat 217 218 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Childrens' Loose Box Coat First lay up all points as described in Systematic Outiine for Childrens' Sizes (page 2 1 0), then continue as follows: 1 from E is ''4 inch. 2 from D is 1'2 inch. 3 from K is '4 inch. 4 is the center between H-M. 5 from 4 is 's inch. 6 from E is 1 inch more than 5 from C. 7 from 4 is 's inch. 8 from 6 is 1 inch. 9 from S is '4 inch. 10 from D is the full length desired. Square out line from 10 as represented. 1 1 is located by drawing a line from 5 through 6 and is '4 inch above the bottom line, 12 is located by drawing a line from 7 through 8 and is from 7 the same length as I I from 5, 13 is located by a line squared out from 10. 14 from I 3 is '4 inch. Allow for button stand I 'o to 2 inches for single breasted and 3 to 3'^ inches for double breasted. Finish the draft as represented. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 219 Childrens* Loose Box Coat 220 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Sleeve Construction for Childrens' Garments Measurement Breast 29 inches, Sleeve length 1 4 inches. To Draft A. Square both ways from A as represented. B from A is the Sleeve length (inside seam), in this case I 4 inches. C from A is one third of the full breast measure plus l^ inch, in this case (9 'x plus ' o) lOj/s inches. D from B is the same as C from A on line squared up from B. Draw a line from C to D. E is the center between A - B. F is lacated by a line squared up from E. G is the center between B - D. H from G is 1 '4 inches on line squared out from G. I is the center between A - C. J from 1 is the same as 1 from A on line squared down from i. K from 1 is 2 inches. L from A is 2 inches. Draw lines from L to J and from J through C. M is the center between L - J. N from M IS '4 inch. O is the center betvi^een J - C. P from O is I inch. Q from C is '/^ inch on line drawn from J through C. R from F is 1 /2 inches. Draw lines betvvfeen Q - R - D. S from C is '2 inch. Draw a line from S to R. T from H is I inch on line drawn from D through H. U from E is '4 inch. V from H is 1 inch. W from U is 2 '4 inches. Draw lines between K - W - V. Sleeve for Childrens' Garments First lay ap all points to measure as described above, then continue as follows : Shape the top sleeve as represented by lines between L-N-J-P-C-Q-R-D-T-U-L. Shape the under sleeve as represented by lines K-S-R- I -2-W-K. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 221 Sleeve Construction for Childrens' Garments Sleeve for Childrens' Garments 2* H( / o-^_ F ^^ Uv^ \^ ^ A f l§^^^,=^ ^^ \i J> \i T ^ K J/? ^"""^^ ""^ J (i B 1— u ^ E^ f; — d 222 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Tight-Fitting Waist Lining For Childrens' Sizes First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematic Oudine for Childrens' Sizes, then continue as follows : 1 from E is 1 1 2 inches. 2 is the center between H-M. 3 from 2 is '/-i inch. 4 from 1 is one quarter of the waist measure less '4 inch. For instance the waist measure is 26 inches ; in this case will be point 4 from point I (6 '2 less ^4) 5 4 inches. Finish the back as represented. 5 from 2 is !H inch. 6 is located by a line squared down from 5. 7 is located by a line drawn from Q parallel with line X-Z. 8 from Q is 2'^ inches. Measure up the waist line from 1 to 4 and 6 to Z; deduct from this measure the half actual waist measure plus 2-4 inches for seams, and the surplus is to be taken out in dart. For instance by drafting a size 1 the waist line from 1 to 4 and 6 to Z measures 15% inches ; the half actual waist measure is 13 plus 2 '4 for seams, will be 15)4 inches; surplus is -2 inch, which is to be taken out in dart as follows: 9 from 7 is h inch. 10 from 7 is /i inch. Finish the front as represented. Remember that 'n seams are allowed all over in this draft. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 223 Tight-Fitting Waist Lining For Childrens' Sizes 224 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Waist For Childrens' Sizes First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematic Outline (page 2 10), then continue as follows : 1 from E is ,'4 inch. 2 from I is 1 inch on line drawn from D through I . 3 is the center between H-M. 4 from 3 is ' 2 inch. 5 is located by a line squared down from 4. 6 from 5 is 1 inch on line drawn from 4 thro Jgh 5. Finish the back as represented. 7 from 3 is ' 2 inch. 8 is located by a line squared down from 7. 9 from 8 is I inch on line drawn from 7 through 8. 10 from Z IS 1 '4 inches. Draw a line from X through I 0. 1 1 from Z is 1 ' 2 inches, more or less accordingly style or taste. Finish the front as represented. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 225 Waist For Childrens Sizes 226 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Children^' Coat Dress First lay up all points as described in Systematic Outline for Childrens' Sizes (page 2 1 0), then continue as follows: 1 from D is the full length desired. Square out from 1 as represented. 2 is the center between H-M. 3 from 2 is '4 inch. 4 from E is i inch more than 3 from C. 5 is located by drawing a line from 3 through 4 and is '4 inch abow the line squared out from 1 . Finish the back as represented. 6 from 2 is '4 inch. 7 is located by drawing a line from 6 through 4 and is from 6 the same length as 5 from 3. 8 from Z is '4 inch. Draw a line from X through 8 for the front center line. 9 is located by drawing a line from X through Y. 10 from 9 is 's inch. Finish the front as represented. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 227 Childrens' Coat Dress 228 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Standing or Military Collar For Childrens' Sizes A. Square both ways from A as represented. B from A is the half neck measure plus U inch for two seams. C is the center of A - B. D from A is 3 inches. E from B is 3 inches on line squared up from B. F is the center of line drawn from D to E. G from E is '4 inch. H from D is '4 inch. I from F is '4 inch. J from B is U inch. K from A is '4 inch, Shape the collar as represented. Line 1 - C is the back center. High Standing Collar For Childrens' Sizes A. Square both ways from A. B from A is the half neck measure plus 's inch for one seam. C from A is 3 inches. D from B is 3 inches on line squared up from B. E from D is '4 inch. F from B is 'h inch. G from C is /4 inch. Fold the paper on line E-F, which is the front center. Shape the collar as represented. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 229 Standing or Military Collar For Childrens' Sizes High Standing Collar For Childrens' Sizes 230 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Childrens' One Piece Sleeve with fulness on the bottom Place the top- and under sleeves together at the back seam so, that they should overlap '4 inch for taking the seams off, and finish as represented. Childrens' One Piece Sleeve with fulness on the top and Cuff Place the top- and under sleeves together at the back seam so, that they should ovedap '4 inch for taking the seams off, and finish the sleeve as represented. The cuff is represented by heavy, broken lines. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 231 Childrens' One Piece Sleeve with fulness on the bottom Childrens' One Piece Sleeve with fulness on the top and Cuff 232 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Childrens* One Piece Tight Sleeve Place the top- and under sleeves together at the back seam so, that they should overlap "4 inch for taking the seams off, then continue as follows : A-B. Draw a straight line from A to B. C is the center between A and B. D from C is the sleeve length measure on line squared down from C. E from D is the half wrist measure plus 's inch for a seam on line squcU-ed out from D. F from D is the same as E from D on line drawn from E throngh D. Finish the sleeve as represented. Childrens* One Piece Tight Sleeve with seam at the middle of the under aurm First make One Piece Tight Sleeve as described above and then continue as follows : A-B-C-D is the original sleeve. E-F is about the middle of the under sleeve. Cut through the sleeve at E-F and place the piece B-C-E-F on the other side of the sleeve so, that B-C should be placed to A-D accordingly notches, and mark over the new sleeve as represented. By using this kind of a sleeve be careful that the side seam of the garment should correspond with the seam of the sleeve. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 233 Childrens' One Piece Tight Sleeve ^ E Childrens* One Piece Tight Sleeve with seam at the middle of the under arm 234 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Collars For Childrens' Sizes Ulster Collar Diagram A 1-2. Draw a line from 1 througli 2 to 3. 3 from 2 is '4 inch more, than the width of the back neck. 4 from 3 is I '4 inches on line squared dow^n from 3. 5 from 1 is 1 '4 inches on line squared down from I . Draw a straight line from 5 to 4. Draw a line for the collar stand from 5 through 2 to 3. 6 from 3 is the collar width as desired on line squared out from 3. 7 from b is '4 inch for spring. Shape the collar as indicated. Standing or Military Collar Diagram B 1-2. Draw a line from 1 through 2 to 3. 3 from 2 is '4 inch more than the width of the back neck. Square up and down from 3. 4 from 3 is I inch. 5 from 3 is I inch. 6 from I is I ' 1 inches. Shape the collar as represented. Standing Rolling Ulster Collar Diagram C 1-2. Draw a line from I through 2 to 3. 3 fron 2 is '4 inch more than the width of the back neck. 4 from 3 is 1 '4 inches on line squared down from -^. 5 from I is I '4 inches. Shape the collar stand from 5 through 2 to 3. 6 from 4 is the width of collar desired en line squared down from 4. 7 from 6 is ''4 inch for spring. Shape the collar as indicated. The stand at 5 - 2 - 3 is to be stretched. Standing Rolling Military Collar Diagram D 1-2. Draw a line from 1 through 2 to 3. 3 from 2 is 4 inch more than the width of the back neck. Square up and down from 3. 4 from 3 is 1 inch. 5 from 3 is 1 inch. 6 from I is 1 '4 inches. 7 from 5 is the width of the roll collar as desired. 8 from 7 is J^ inch for spring. 9 from 6 is the width as desired. Finish the collar as represented. The outer leaf of the collar line 9-7-8 must be slightly stretched. Roll and Button High Collar Diagram E 1 is the shoulder point. 2 from t is 1 V^ inches. 3 is the end of the break of lapel. 4 is located by draw^ing a line from 3 to 2. Draw a line from 4 through 1 to 5. 5 from I is '4 inch more than the width of the back neck. 6 from 5 is 1 /4 inches on line squared down from 5. 7 from 5 is the width of the collar desired on line squared up from 5, 8 from 7 is ' _> inch for spring. Finish the collar as represented. Standing Lay Down Collar from two pieces Diagram F 1-2-3-4 is the standing collar, which was produced accordingly Ciagram B. 5 from I is 1 74 inches, and is the same length f;om 2 as I from 2. 6 from 2 is the w^idth of the collar desired on line draw^ from 2 through 3. 7 from 6 is ' J inch for spring. Finish the collar as represented. Storm Collar Diagram G For producing this collar take a stand- ing collar and cut it in three pieces. 1-2 is the bottom of the standing collar. 3-4 is the top of the standing collar. 5-6 are located by dividing the bottom of three part. 7- ■ are produced by dividing the top line of the collar of three parts. Depart the pieces at points 7 and 8 so far as much fulness you desire and finish the collar as represented. Allow for seams between the pieces. Flat Collar Diagram H For producing this collar put together the front and back at the shoulder so, that they should overlap '4 inch for taking the seams off, and mark the collar to the shape desired. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 235 Collars For Childrens' Sizes 236 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Systematic Outline for Childrens' Skirts Measurement Waist 26 inches, Hips 35 inches, Front length 23 inches. Side length 23 inches, Back length 23 inches. To Draft A. Square both ways from A as represented. B from A is the half waist measure, in this case I 3 inches. C from B is 5 '4 inches on line squared out from B. Draw a line from A through C. D from A is 4 inches. E from D is the half Hip measure, in this case l7'o inches on line drawn from D parallel with line A-C. F is located by a line squared out from E. G from F is \}/4 inches. H is the center between A - G. I from H is ' 2 inch. Finish the waist line A-l-G as represented. J from A is the front length measure, in this case 23 inches. K from 1 is the side length measure, in this case 23 inches. L from G is the back length measure, in this case 23 inches on line drawn from G through E. Finish the draft as represented. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 237 Systematic Outline for Childrens' Skirts 238 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Childrens' Five Gore Skirt First lay up all points as described in Systematic Outline for Childrens' Skirts (page 236), then continue as follows : 1 from A is 3 inches. 2 is the center between 1 -G. 3 from J is 5 ' l; inches (twice as much as I from A less Vi inch). 4 is the center betw^een 3 - L. Draw lines betw^een 1 -3 and 2-4. Measure up the waist line from A to G and the difference between this measure and the half actual waist measure is to be taken out in darts as represented. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 239 Childrens' Five Gore Skirt 240 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Remember that by Childrens the Breast measure increases and decreases from size to size 1 h inches, during by Ladies, Misses and Juniors 2 inches. PART FIVE INFANTS' GARMENTS 242 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Collars for Infants' Garments are Constructed the same way as for Childrens' Garments. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 243 Table of Proportionate Measurements For Infants' Sizes SIZE (AGE) 1 2 3 4 5 6 Height 2 Feet 10 in. 4% 8V2 22'4 2VA 28'4 lOS 9'4 8', 16', 16', 16', 3 Feet 4^'4 9 23 22 29 10', 9', 9 17 17 17 3 Feet 2 in. 4"s 91/0 23'4 22', 29U 10^ 9'4 91, 17', 17', 17', 3 Feet 4 in. 5 10 24', 23 30', 11 10 10 18 18 18 3 Feet 6 in. 5's lO'o 25'4 23', 31-4 11'4 10-4 10', 18', 18', 181, 3 Feet 8 in. 5'4 11 26 24 32 11', 10', 11 19 19 19 Scye depth Back waist length Bust Waist Hips Neck Back width Sleeve length (Inside seam) C/2 Front length Side length Back length 244 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Systematic Outline For Infants' Sizes Measurement Breast 24 'o inches. Waist 23 inches. Hips 30 '^ inches. Scye depth 5 inches. Back waist length 1 inches. To Draft A. Square both ways from A as represented. B from A is one third of the full Breast meas- ure, in this case 8,'s inches. C from B is i-j, inch. D from C is the Scye depth measure, in this case 5 inches. (In lack of the Scye depth measure is D from C 'i inch more than the center of A-C.) E from D is the back waist length measure, in this case 1 inches. F From E is 4 inches. Square out lines from C for the Breast line, from E for the waist line and from F for the Hip line as represented. G from C is the half Breast measure plus 3 's inches, in this case (I2J4 plus 3 's) 15 's inches. H from C is the same as C from A. I is located by a line squared out from H. J from 1 is the same as D from C. K from D is one quarter part of line drawn from D to 1. Draw a line from K to J. L is the center between C-H. M from L is 1 '4 inches. N is located by a line squared up from M. O from N is 'j inch. P is the center betwen M-N. Draw a line from O to P. Q from H is ' 2 inch more than the center between H-G. R is located by a line squared up from Q. S from R is '4 inch less than D-K. T from J is 1 inch, and is from S on line drawn from S through T 's inch longer than line K-D, this 's inch is to be taken off in corner at point S as represented. U from H is 1 '4 inches. V from U is 1 '4 inches on line squared out from U. Draw^ a line from T to V. W from S is 2 inches. X from W is the same as D-K on line squared out from W. Y from G is ' s inch. Z is located by drawing a line from X through Y. NOTICE: In all Diagrams inch seams allowed. designed in this Systematic Outline — are Table of Aliquot Parts Breast Measure 22S ll's 7-\ 23 11', 7\s 23 J4 ll's 7's 241. 12'4 8's 25^4 12 >s 8^',s 26 13 8's 26 t 13 s 8's 271, 13U 9's 28'4 9\ 29 14', 9's 30', 15'4 lO's 32 16 10 's One Half One Third THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 245 Systematic Outline For Infants' Sizes 246 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Infants* Loose Box Coat First lay up all points as described in Systematic Outline for Infants' Sizes (page 244), then continue as follows: 1 from E is 4 incfi. 2 from D is '2 inch. ___^ ; 3 from K is ,'4 inch. 4 is the centerbetween H-M. 5 from 4 is ''x inch. 6 from E is 1 inch more than 5 from C. 7 from 4 is 's inch. 8 from 6 is I inch. 9 from S is '4 inch. 10 from D is the full length desired. Square out line from 1 as represented. 11 is located by drawing a line from 5 through 6 and is '4 inch above the bottom line. 12 is located by drawing a line from 7 through 8 and is from 7 the same length as I I from 5. 13 is located by a line squared out from 10. 14 from 1 3 is '4 inch. Allow for button stand 15 2 to 2 inches for single breasted and 3 to 3' 2 inches for double breasted. Finish the draft as represented. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 247 Infants' Loose Box Coat 248 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Sleeve Construction for Infants^ Garments Measurement Breast 24.' o inches, Sleeve length 1 I inches. To Draft A. Square both ways from A as represented. B from A is the Sleeve length (inside seam), in this case I I inches. C from A is one third of the full breast measure plus y, inch, in this case (8' s plus ' .) 8>; inches. D from B is the same as C from A on line squared up from B. Draw a line from C to D. E is the center between A - B. F is lacated by a line squared up from E. G is the center between B - D. H from G is 1 '4 inches on line squared out from G. I is the center between A - C. J from I is the same as I from A on line squared down from I. K from I is 2 inches. L from A is 2 inches. Draw lines from L to J and from J through C. M is the center between L - J. N from M IS ,'4 inch. O is the center betw^een J - C. P from O is I inch. Q from C is lo inch on line drawn from J through C. R from F is I/2 inches. Draw lines between Q - R - D. S from C is /2 inch. Draw a line from S to R. T from H is 1 inch on line drawn from D through H. U from E is ;'4 inch. V from H is 1 inch. W from U is 2 '4 inches. Draw lines between K - W - V. Sleeve for Infants' Garments First lay ap all points to measure as described above, then continue as follows r Shape the top sleeve as represented by lines between L-N-J-P-C-Q-R-D-T-U- L. Shape the under sleeve as represented by lines K-S-R- I -2-W-K. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 249 Sleeve Construction for Infants' Garments Sleeve for Infants' Garments 250 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER A ND CUTTER Infants' Coat Dress First lay up all points as described in Systematic Outline for Infants' Garments (page 244), then continue as follows : 1 from D is the full length desired. Square out from 1 as represented. 2 is the center between H-M. 3 from 2 is '4 inch. 4 from E is I inch more than 3 from C. 5 is located by drawing a line from 3 through 4 and is '4 inch abow the line squared out from 1 . Finish the back as represented. 6 from 2 is ,'4 inch. 7 is located by drawing a line from 6 through 4 and is from 6 the same length as 5 from 3. 8 from Z is '4 inch. Draw a line from X through 8 for the front center line. 9 is located by drawing a line from X through Y. 10 from 9 is ;',x inch. Finish the front as represented. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 251 Infants' Coat Dress 252 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Infants* One Piece Sleeve with fulness on the bottom Place the top- and under sleeves together at the back seam so, that they should overlap '4 inch for taking the seams off, and finish as represented. Infants' One Piece Sleeve with fulness on the top and Cuff Place the top- and under sleeves together at the back seam so , that they should overlap '4 inch for taking the seams off, and finish the sleeve as represented. The cuff is represented by heavy, broken lines. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 253 Infants' One Piece Sleeve with fulness on the bottom Infants' One Piece Sleeve with fulness on the top and Cuff 254 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Infants' Yoke To produce a Yoke lay the back and front together at the shoulder so, that they should overlap U inch for figuring the seams off, and finish the Yoke as represented. Infants' Shield To Produce a Shield lay the back and front together at the shonlder so, that they should overlap '4 inch for figuring the £earr.s off, c.nd finish the Shield as represented. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 255 Infants' Yoke Infants' Shield 256 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Hood The hood is constructed from a cape as follows : A-B is 1 inches, more or less accordingly style or taste. C from B is 1 inch less than A-B, in this case say 9 inches. D from C is one-third of the length of line B-C, in this case say 3 inches. E from D is 1 inch. Finish the hood as represented. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 257 Hood 258 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Collars for Infants' Garments are constructed the same way as for Childrens' Garments. PART SIX GRADING 260 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Art of Grading Graduation may be described as the art of grading a number of different sized gar- ments from a single model, and in ladies gar- ment cutting it is frequently a great assistance to the grader. This, indeed, the production of pattern sets, is the most practical use to which the system of grading lends itself. Assuming that a single pattern has been so corrected by alterations as to produce a correct fit combined with a perfection of style, it naturally follows that the cutter is anxious to produce a comlete set of patterns embod- ying the same excellencies. By no other plan of working can such a desirable result be arrived at more expedi- tiously than through grading. But to attain succes the grader must have at his command a logical and truly scientific method of working. It must be exact, practi- cal and comprehensive in minute deatil In w^holesale manufacturing every gar- ment is made up in different sizes. The medium size is for : Ladies' Garments 36 Bust Misses' " 16 Years Juniors' '' 15 Childrens' Garments 10 Years Infants' " 4 Whatever shape or style of garment it may be — tight fitting, semi-filting or loose no matter how many pieces the pattern is cut into, the grading is the same as diagrams will show under this heading. Revers, shapes, lapels, scallops, tabes, gathers, plaits, folds, tucks, etc. are never graded; regarding this use your ow^n judgment. In the diagrams the inside lines show how to grade a smaller size and the outside lines shov/ to grade a larger size. The sizes are in : Ladies' Garments from 32 to 44 Misses' " "14 ■• 20 Juniors' " " 1 3 " 19 Childrens' " " 6 " i4 Infants' " " 2 " 6 The amount v^fhich is taken off for smaller size or added to for larger size is from size to size, for instance from 36 to 38 or vice-versa. If you v^rish to grade for 2 sizes larger or smaller, for instance from 36 to 40 than you have to add to, resp. to take off the double amount as marked on diagrams. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 261 Scale of Regular Stock Patterns Showing how many inches the garment increases and decreases in proportion from size to size. Measures Ladies' Misses' and Juniors' Childrens' and Infants' Around Bust 2 2 Wi Around Waist 1^ Wi \ Around Hips 2 1 \Yi Scye depth The same 's Va Waist length The same 1/ 1 Across Back Vi Vi Yi Across Chest v.. '/.) Y Aroudd Neck 1 , 1 , A Front Length 1 -,s ■'s 1 Underarm length The same* 1 , % Length of Shoulder 1 s 1 s % Hight of Shoulder '^4 '4 Vi Sleeve length The same Mis. >.Jun. 1 1 Around Muscle of Arm 'A 1/, Vi Around Elbow 1/ /2 ¥i Vi Around Wrist or Cuff s ■% Armhole m ,-'4 % Length of Entire Body 1 Mis.2Jun.3 4 *Underarm-Length from size 40 up "^^4 inch shorter at the armhole tArmhole from size 40 up '4 inch lower. 262 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Grading of Ladies' Tighth-Fitting with dart Increases and Decreases for Each Size j_, .fcj . 2 ca 3 ^ en O o < < V > 3 u M 3 Ot 3 .^ 'Z C 1 CO z 1. Front 1 :, Va 1 / .'S % % % 2. Front Side I 1 . X 3. Backside 1 ,' s '4 4. Back ,^•4 V', 1 s s I • s % Total 1 'H U 1 lu h .ks ^4 % THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 263 Grading of Ladies' Semi-Fitting with Side Piece ^ Increases and 3 to _c ^ > U CQ ° fc "- 3 u u for Each Size :c2 bo 3 ■£ "0 be 3 E < < < < < X en C Z 1. Front 1 , ■= u 1 s % ^ % 2. Side Piece '4 u % 3. Back '4 1 s '4 's % 1 s M Total 1 /'s u h '4 's •4 % 264 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Grading of Ladies' Eton Increases and Decreases for Each Size u < '5 u o < ID 6 Vh o < o (0 QQ m • o < C -J en V > 3 u o V Z E < I. Front 2 .Back 1 J 1/ 1 , - ;! /4 u 1 - s 1 ' s 1 - s 1 1 1 s Total 1 ''S h H K 's '4 4 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 265 Grading of Ladies' Semi-Fitting French Seam Increases and Decreases for Each Size ^ ^^ !5 « -« 3 03 £13 U CD :£2 ■- 3 u O M 3 M 3 _« 1-1 kH o O o -C en i) < < < < -J ^ z 1 . 1 St Part Front 2. 2nd Part Front 3. Back Side 4. Back •'i li ':'/] (i 'Via I Mfl ,\s ■'k; "Jki Vw. , N Vi,, ■>'m ^'iti J 1 , yi.i 1 1 N Total I I 266 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Grading of Ladies' Tight-Fitting French Seam Increases and Decreases for Each Size 3 CQ m u < ■(3 p < U u < o m o < W) 3 I en <- V M 3 C -J cn > 3 U o u Z -a E < 1 . 1 St Part Front 2. 2ndPartFront 3. Under arm Gore 4. Back Side 5. Back 71 .i ■Tiu ■;i(i 1 s Vi.i =yiu Vi.i Vu; ■Ti« 1 1 s 1 s 1 'S - 1 s 1 s '/s '4 Total 1 ■'s k J4 i-i 1 s '^ 4 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 267 Grading of Ladies' Tight-Fitting Double French Seam Increases and Decreases for Each Size 3 QQ o o < o < U < U nj □Q u < M 3 X en tS -XI to "3 c > 3 U V Z E < 1. 1st Pait Front ''/-■'.•I ■'■■•- •'ijL' 1 . N IU2 1 2. 2ndPartFront ^i^ 'u: h-l 1 /.S v,« 3. 3rd Part Front %- ■■'::, '.•52 ',s IU:2 4. Under arm 1 Gore 's 5. Back Side •>.'l:.' ■/.tl* \k-2 Vs Ml-2 '4 6. Middle Back 'l.i •lu I'u: 1 s Vi.i 7. Back 'Y-.^-j l/^tL- ■'/U'2 'n %2 1 • Total 1 -'s ,'•4 '4 '/4 1,: s 4 268 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER How to Grade Misses' Sizes from Ladies' Size Patterns Size 20 is the same as size 38. Size 1 8 is the same as size 36. Size 1 6 is the same as size 34, but ' o inch shorter in the waist lengtht. Size 1 4 is the same as size 32, but 1 inch shorter in the waist length. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER -269 Grading of Misses' and Juniors' Tight-Fitting with dart Increases and 3 DQ '5 o CO CQ "^ in "o in > u "a Decreases "S "0 _C -0 u _c for Each Size O M 3 M 3 _i! e M 1-1 iM < < < < X en -J cn z < J 1. Front }/; M M )^ K K 3/ /s 1^.; 2. Front Side 1 s 1 / s 1 Vi 3. Back Side H Vs 1 1 N Vo 4. Back H H 's 1 s 1^ 1 S Vi Total 1 ', ^4 'a 1 , 4 u '4 u 1,/ N. B. The Dart '4 inch higher or lower as represented. 270 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Grading of Misses' and Juniors' Tighth-Fitting French Seam Increases and 3 CQ U O CO 03 ^ fe "o >- > 3 u 2 Decreases for Each Size o < in u o < u o < u o < :S3 60 3 M "3 C -J cn D 2 E < c 1 . 1 St Part Front ■''i<; ■"'1(! «/l.! 1 s Vi.i ■'s 3^ 2. 2ndPartFront •/i(i 'Ym; Vi,-, 1 , '/,„ :! S 1/ 3. Under arm 1 1^ Gore s s 4. Back Side ■'■'l (! 's ' i 'S Increases and CQ ^ u CQ "5 '7 '^ 'r -< ^ c c c D < < < < X^ Ufn z < J 1. Front S % '4 1 s 1 '^ 4 2. Side Piece 1/ /IS 1 S I "4 3. Back '4 The same '4 34 % ks Va 1 Total 4 1/, ■^ '4 1., 1 s '4 :i 4 1 272 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Grading of Childrens* and Infants' Box Coat Increases and Decreases for Each Size 1 o < '3 in o < to u -C to i- u < tS CQ to < M 3 X en " V C V > u p u z Ji "0 < to -^ ^ 15 1. Front 2. Back s '4 K ^4 H 3-^ /■ 8 1 s '■8 s 'xi Total •'4 ^'•4 h '4 1^, % M % V4 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 273 Grading of Ladies', Misses', Juniors', Childrens' and Infants' Sleeve // ^^^^Si, ffcv / / ^^ - ~w^^ 1 >^ / ' 12 1 ^\\ \^ *S-^ ^""^--X,,,, -'-'' Wrist or Cuff Muscle of arm LENGTH Increases and Decreases for Each Size "(0 JJ 1) to ,0 'c 3 C 1 . Top Sleeve •Tio '4 The 1 , 1 1 1 2. Under Sleeve =VHi '4 The 1 , 1 1 1 Total X 1 , The 1 , 1 1 1 274 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Grading of Cape, Yoke, Collar, Cuff increases and Decreases for Each Size Cape : Neck J4, Around Bust 1 inch. Yoke: Neck '4, Front J4, Back ,'4 inch. Collar: Neck ,^4 inch. Cuff: Length on top ' j. on bottom 's inch. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 275 Length of Garments 1 'in f^ -O .N JO CO 'in "^ D _3 en ~ N C U 1: ''^ Short Jacket 19 18 17 20 16 Half Three-Quarter Coat 32 27 26 Three-Quarter Coat 36 32 31 30 22 Full Three-Quarter Coat 42 38 37 36 28 Cravanet 54 50 49 Negligee Gown 60 58 57 Kimono or Dressing Sacque 22 20 19 Chemise 42 42 41 38 Night Gown 58 56 55 40 Grading of Length 276 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Skirts Ladies" Misses" Juniors" ChiWrens" Measures Size 36 Size 16 Size 14 Size 10 Around belt 25 24 24 26 Around Hips 43 41 38 32 Front Length 42 40 34 23 Side Length 43^2 4VA 35 23 Back Length 44 42 35 23 Grading of Skirt Measures Ladies" Misses' Junsors' Childfens" Around Belt iVi 1 1 Vi Around Hips 2 2 2 VA Length The same 1 2 2 This is divided equally amDng all the gores, as many as there may be. PART SEVEN SPECIAL MEASUREMENT 278 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Foundation of Garment Cutting The method of Cutting may be divided in various ways, as for instance Proportinate and Special measures system, but looked at from the practical stand- point, they may be divided into two plans, viz, the cutting of a special pattern for each customer and the using of one model pattern for many different customers, adapting it as ocassion may demand, either by judgement or the indications of special measures. Cutting by model patterns is one of the most successful methods, and whilst much may be said in favor of the specially drafted pattern for each individual customer, yet there are also a considerable number of arguments to be advanced in favor of the model pattern being used as the basis of operation. To begin with, it is much easier to retain the same style in all the garments produced by this method than from any other; and when one has a pattern that will produce a really reliable, good-fitting, smart hanging, stylish garment, it is surprising what a large number of customers it can be used for, and what a very varied selection of garment it can be made to produce. The first essential in all this is to get a good fitting model, and there are many methods of doing this. Some cutters make it a point of honor to produce their own models, carefully testing them at each stage by first of all cutting the garment out in linen and then altering and adjusting it so that every detail is brought to meet their views of style add fit. There are others who find it much more advantageous to avail themselves of the skill of more experienced practitioners, and in this way they are enabled to obtain the very best talent, which would other- wise be quite beyond them. There are others who adopt a third plan, and that is to pocure a simple pattern, to test it by experiment, and then use it as the basis for grading a full set of sizes. This requires some skill, and if done well it w ill produced most satisfactory results. The cutter has necessarily to decide which style of model he will use as his basis. There are some who would vote for tight-fitting jacket pattern for his purpose; but in view of the popularity of the semi-fitting style at the present time, THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 279 there are those who prefer that fashion. Others again, use the bodice Hning as their basis, and adapt the various parts according to the requirements of the gar- ment and figure. Each plan has its advantages. Possibly, on the whole a semi-fitting model of a jacket is about the most useful type for the cutter of the present time, enabling him to cut the most fashionable style of pattern which will produce a smart, st\lish garment. The principles underlaying all the systems of Cutting now in use are grouped under two headings. 1 . Proportionate measurement. 2. Special measurement. The Proportionate measurement of cutting are those in which all points of the draft are obtaned by fixed proportions of the breast circumference. I he principle disadvantages of a Proportionate measure system are: 1. That it does not provide for disproportion or variations in attitude, as erect, stooping, high or low shouldered, full or flat breasted, etc. 2. 1 hat it does not provide for difference in shoulder or scye for figures of same breast measures. That it leaves too much to the judgement of the cutter and too much to chance. The Proportionate measurement b.isis of Cutting would only be reliable if womankind were all of strictly proportionate formation. In such a case divisions of the circimiference of breast would produce correct outlines. Special measures, they give to the cutter such confidence and assurance in their appLcation as cannot be otherwise obtained, and in all kinds of garments are productive of the best possible results. Spec.al measures help to one to judge customers form well. 280 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER How to take Special Measurement 1. Bust measure. Around the body under the arms, over the fullest part in front, and well up on shoulder blades in back. 2. Waist measure. Around the body at smallest part in waist. 3. Hips measure.— Around the body 6 inches below the waist line. 4. Lower shoulder measure.— This measure is found by placing the end of the tape at the center about 4 inches down the back seam from the center back of neck, passing the other end over the shoulder and under the arm back to the starting point. 5. Upper shoulder measure. This measure is found by placing the end of the tape at the center of back neck, passing the other end down the front of shoulder and under the arm back to the starting point. 6. Back waist-length measure. From center back of neck down to the natural waist line, and continue down to the full-length desired. 7. Front waist-length measure. From center back of neck to the waist of center of front. 8. Bust depth measure. From center back of neck to the brow of bust. 9. Side waist-length measure. — From center back of neck, over the shoulder to the waist line at side. For the sleeve length take the inside seam from the arm pit to the wrist. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 281 How to take Special Measurement 282 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Systematic Outline By Special Measurement Measurement Bust 40 inches. Waist 26 inches. Hips 4 1 inches. Lower shoulder 25 inches. Upper shoulder 25''4 inches. Back waist-length 1 5 ' 2 inches. Front waist-length 23' 2 inches. Bust depth 1 5 inches. Side w^aist length 2 1 inches. Sleeve length 1 8 inches. Scale is the half Lower shoulder measure, in this case 12/0 inches. Half Scale is 6^4 One-Quarter Scale is 3',x Excess is the difference between the Lower — and Upper shoulder measures, in case ' iJ inch. To Draft thi A. Draw a straight line as from A to D. B from A is the half Scale plus % inch plus half Excess, in this case 6' 4 plus '^ plus 's together 7*4 inches. C from A is the back waist-length measure, in this case 153^ inches. D from C is 6 inches. Square out from A for the top line, from B for the Bust line, from C for the waist line and from D for the hip line as rep- resented. E from B is the half Bust measure plus 4 inches, in this case 24 inches. F from B is the Scale less ' 2 inch, in this case 12 inches. G from F is the half Scale plus one-quarter Scale less 3;'s inches, in this case 6/4 plus 3/s is 9% less 3 '.^ is G from F 6 inches. H from B is the half Scale less J4 inch, in this case 6 inches. I from A is 5 '4 inches. Square out from E, F, G and I as rep- resented. J from I is 2*4 inches. K from A is one-quarter Scale less s inch, in this case 3 inches. Square out from K as represented. L is located by drawing a line from A to J. M from H is 2 inches. Square out from M as represented. N from M is half Scale plus 's inch, in this case 6 ' s inches. O from N is ' j inch on line drawn from L throguh N. P is the center betw^een M and N. ' Q from I is '4 inch. R is located by drawing a line from A through Q. S from G is one-quarter Scale plus ' s inch, in this case 3 '4 inches. Square out from S as represented. T from S is half Scale plus I '-4 inches, in this case 8 inches- U from R is /'^ inch more than the dis- tance from L to O on line draw^n from R through T. Cut off the point at R of /.s inch as represented. V from S is 2 inches. W from R is 2 inches. Square out from W as represented. X from W is one-quarter scale plus 's inch, in this case 3 '4 inches. Y is locared by a line squared out from E. Z is located by a line squared out from F NOTICE In all Diagrams — disigned in this Systematic Outline — are s inch seams allowed. In all Diagrams — designed in this Systematic outline — is the half waist measure 7 inches less than the half Bust measure. (See Waist Suppression on page 20.) In all Diagrams — designed in this Systematic Outline — is the half hip measure ' 1 inch more than the half Bust measure. (See Hip Development on page 20.) THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 283 Systematic Outline By SpecieJ Measurement # Y -ih % 284 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Tight-Fitting French Seam By Special Measurement First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematic Outline for Special Measurement (Page 282), then continue as follows : 1 from R is the Side waist-length measure plus I '4 inches and less the width of the back neck as from A to L, in this case 21 plus \% is 22;'4 less 3J4 is 1 from R 19/'2 inches. 2 from R is the Front length-measure plus % inch and less the width of the back neck as from A to L, in this case 23' 2 plus J'8 is 24-^s less 3 '4, is 2 from R 2 i 3« inch and less the width of the back neck as from A to L, in this case 23 '^ plus '^ is 24% less 3/^. is 2 from R 2 1 ' x inches. Draw^ lines from C to I and from I through 2 for the fashionable waist line as represented. 3 from C is I /'z inches. 4 from 3 is /4 inch. 5 from D is 1 inch. 6 from P is '4 inch. 7 from H is /'4 inch. 8 from 4 is I inch more than the distance from A to K. 9 from 5 is '4 inch more than the distance from 4 to 8. Finish the back as represented. 10 from 8 is /4 inch. 1 1 from 9 is i J/2 inchees. 12 from 6 is }4 inch. 13 from F is % inch. 14 from 1 is ''4 inch. 15 is located by drawing a line from 13 through 14. 16 from 14 is /<> inch. Finish the side gore as represented. 17 from 1 is ' 2 inch, and is from F the same length as 16 from 13. 18 from 1 5 is 1 inch. 19 from 2 is 2 inches. Draw line from E through 19. 20 from R is the Bust depth measure plus I 34 inches and less the width of the back neck as from A to L, in this case 15 plus 134 is 16^4 less 3 34, is point 20 from R 13 inches. 21 from 20 is 13'^ inches on line drawn parallel with line E-19. 22 is located by drawing a line from 21 parallel with line E-19. 23 is located by drawing a line from 21 parallel with line E-19. 24 from 22 is J/t. inch. 25 from 24 is 3 inches. 26 from 21 is the same length as 24 from 21. 27 from 23 is % inch. 28 from 27 is 3/4 inches. Finish the front as represented. 29 from 1 6 is the same length as 1 8 from I 7. 30 from 28 is I '4 inches. 31 from 24 is the same length as 30 from 26. Finish the bottom as represented. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 287 Semi-Fitting with Dart in Front By Special Measurement 288 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Systematic Outline By Special Measurement No Seam Allowances Measurement Bust 40 inches. Waist 26 inches. Hips 4 1 inches. Lower shoulder 25 inches. Upper shoulder 25*4 inches. Back waist-length 1 5 ' j inches. Front waist-length 23*2 inches. Bust depth 1 5 inches. Side waist length 2 1 inches. Sleeve length 1 8 inches. Scale is the half Low^er shoulder measure, in this case 12' o Half Scale is 6/^ One-Quarter Scale is 3}/g Excess is the case "s difference between the Low^er inch. - and Upper shoulder measures, in this To Draft A. Draw a straight line as from A to W. B from A is Sj-o inches on line squared up from A. C from B is 2 '4 inches on line squared out from B. Draw a line from A to C. D from A is the half Scale plus •'is inch plus half Excess, in this case 6J4 plus 'k plus /s is ZH inches. Square out line from D as represented. E from D is the Scale less ' ^ inch, in this case 1 2 inches. F from D is the half Scale plus I inch, in this case 6/4 plus I is 7J4 inches. G from E is one-quarter Scale less ^2 inch, in this case 3',s less Jo is 2/.s inches. H from D is the half Bust measure plus 1 inch, in this case 20 plus I is 2 1 inches. I from E is I j/2 inches. Square lines from F, 1, E, G and H as represented. J from F is half Scale plus ' 2 inch, in this case 6)4 plus J2 's 6^4 inches. K from A is one-quarter Scale less ' 2 inch, in this case 3',s less ''2 is 2 's inches. L from J is ' 2 inch on line drawn from K through J. M is the center between J and F. Draw a line from L to M. N from G is half Scale plus 2's inches plus half Excess, in this case 6*4 plus 2'\ plus % is 934 inches. O from E is half Scale plus I's inches, in this case 6'4 plus l,',s is 7% inches. P from N is the same length as L from K on line drawn from N through O. Q from E is 2 inches. Draw a line from P to Q. R from N one-quarter Scale, in this case 3',s inches on line squared out from N. Draw a line from R to H. S from R is 2 ^-'4 inches. T from A is the Back waist-length measure, in this case 15*2 inches. U from N is the Side waist-length measure less the back neck as from A to K. V from N is the Front waist-length measure less the back neck as from A to K. Z from N is the Bust depth measure less the back neck as from A to K. Draw lines from T to U and from U to V. Y and X are located by a line squared up from W. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 289 Systematic Outline By Special Measurement 290 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Tight-Fitting Jacket By Special Measure System Seams are not allowed First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematic Outline (page 288), then continue as follows: 1 from T is 2 inches. 2 from W is I '4 inches. 3 from 1 is I inch less than K from A. 4 is located by drawing a curved line from M to 3 as represented. 5 from 2 is ^,'4 inch more than 3 from 1 . Finish the back as represented. 6 from 3 is '4 inch. 7 from 5 is 1 inch. 8 is the center between 1 and 4. 9 is the center between U and 6. 10 is located by drawing a line from 8 through 9. 1 1 from 9 is '2 inch. 12 from 9 is ' ■_; inch. 13 is located by drawing a line from 12 through 8. 14 from 10 is I inch. 15 from 1 is I inch. 16 from X is ,'2 inch. Finish both side gores as represented. 1 7 from U is '4 inch and is from I the same length as U from I. 18 from X is 1/2 inches. 19 from V is I '4 inches. 20 is located by drawing a line from H through 19. 21 from Z is '4 inch less than K from A. 22 is located by drawing a line from 2 1 parallel with line H-20. 23 is located by drawmg a line from 21 through 22. Measure up the waist line from I to 3 and continue 6 to 1 2, 1 1 to U and I 7 to 19; the total is in this case I 7'4 inches. The half of the actual waist measure is in this case 13 inches; there is a surplus 4' 4 inches, which amount is to be taken out in dart. 24 from 22 is one-third of the Dart, in this case I '2 inches. 25 from 23 is the same as 24 from 22. 26 from 24 is the Dart, in this case 4*4 inches. 27 is located by drawing a line from 2 1 through 26 and is from 2 1 the same length as 24 from 2 I . 28 from 25 is '4 inch more than 26 from 24. Measure up the hip line from 2 to 5 and continue 7 to 14, 1 5 to 1 6, 18 to 28 and 25 to 20. The difference between this total and the half of the actual hips measure is to be added to by larger size hips and to be taken off by smaller size hips equally divided at points 16, 18, 14, 15 and 7. 29 from 20 is 's inch. Finish the front as represented. 30 from A is the full length desired. 31 is located by a line squared out from 30. 32 is located by drawing a line from 1 through 2. 33 is located by drawing a line from the middle of 3-6 through 5. 34 is located by drawing a line from the middle of 3-6 through 7 and is the same length from 6 as 33 from 3. 35 is located by drawing a line from 9 through 14. 36 is located by drawing a line from 9 through 15, and is from 11 the same length as 35 from 12. 37 is located by drawing a line from U through 18. 38 is located by drawing a line from )4 inch outside from U through 16, and is from U the same length as 37 from 1 7. 39 is located by drawing a line from 27 through 28 and is 1 /4 inches below 31. 40 is located by a line drawn from 24 through 25. and is from 24 the same length as 39 from 27. Allow for single breasted button stand 1 ' 2 inches. The Collar and Lapel 41 from N is 1 inch. 42 is the length of the crease line desired. Draw a line from 42 through 41 and longer. 43 from N is '4 inch. 44 from 43 is 1 '4 inches more than K from A on line drawn from 43 parallel with line 42-41-45. 45 is located by a line squared up from 44. 46 is located by a line squared out from 44 and make the width of collar as desired. 47 from 46 is about ' 2 inch for the spring of collar. Finish the draft as represented. No seams or turnings - in allowed for on this draft. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 291 Tight-Fitting Jacket By Special Measure System Seams are not allowed 292 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Taking Special Measurement For Direct Short Measure System (How to apply this measurement to the System see pages 308 and 309.) Measurement For Body 2-6-2 Arond bust 3-9-3 Around waist 12-12 Around hips 1-2 Back scye depth 1-3 Back waist length 2-5-6 Over shoulder 1-6 Front shoulder 1-7 Front waist length 1-8 Bust depth 1-9 Side waist length 11-11 Across chest 6-6 Across bust 6- 1 Sleeve length For Skirt 3-9-3 Arond waist 12-12 Around hips 7-1 3 Front length 9-14 Side length 9- 1 5 Back length PART EIGHT RIDING AND SPORTING GARMENTS 294 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Riding Skirts In the middle of the last century they were simply several widths of material plaited into the waist and cut long enough to flow gracefully to at least 12 inches below the feet of the wearer. These, although graceful, were not practical, and, from the standpoint of safety, it was found a veritable death-trap when the lady had the misfortune to be thrown from her horse; the surplus material which formed the graceful folds had a knock of twisting themselves round the pommel of the saddle, and the lady would be dragged along the ground till she was kicked to death. Then came a revolution, and trains were made shorter and shorter, and closer and closer, till they arrived at what was THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 295 thought to be the utmost limit of safety, when they were quite close-fitting over the seat, and long enough to almost cover the foot, the toe just showing out from the hem of the train. Experience in the hunting-field suggested improvements on these ; ladies cut out large holes from the underpart of the train for additional safety, whilst others cleared the whole of the underpart from the seat downwards away, and just left enough to folds over the leg at either side, and so still further simplified it. The most important item in a riding skirt is a clean saddle, that is, there must be no wrinkels or creases under the wearer's seat or legs and more particularly about the spot where the knees come in contact with the pommel. Such superflous material means pain to the rider and soreness for some time after a ride, and so such superfluity must be avoided. The question is, if these things should be present, how can we locate where the fulness starts and finishes? Well, this is how to do it. Having placed the skirt on the custumer and the cusomer on the horse, and furthermore, made sure that the skirt is in the right position, proceed by fittmg the upper side. When this has been accomplished, rip up the back seam and the front seam from foot to knee, and throw the front clean over the horse, thus exposing the wearer. Mention, of coarse, that you intand to do this, but first of all ask the young lady who put the skirt on whether the customer is properly clad. Once the under part is exposed on the interior then the rest is simple. Having fitted the underside replace the topside and care- fully readjust. 296 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Side Saddle Safety Riding Skirt Front These diagrams represent a model of a side saddle safety riding skirt, which reproduced by the inch tape, will fit a lady with 26 inches waist, 43 inches hips. 20/2 inches side to knee and 1 3 inches rise measurement. Seams are not allowed. 36 r THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 297 Side Saddle Safety Riding Skirt Back 4t 7t 11 17 lai 22 J In this particular skirt there is a hole for the pommels and is made like a placquette of a skirt with press studs. If the rider is thrown, these studs come into action and prevent the rider being hung up on the pommel. 298 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Apron Riding Skirts To Draft This diagram represents a model of an Apron Riding Skirt, which reproduced by the inch tape, will fit a lady 24 waist, 40 seat. Seam allawances of one-quarter of an inch are allowed. Front A. Draw a line as from A to I . B from A is J/'o inches. C from A is 9 inches. D from A is I I inches. E from A is 1 5 inches. F from A is 1 6 inches. G from A is 23 inches. H from A is 34 incfles. I from A is 5 1 inches. Square out lines from A, B, D, F, and H as represented. J from A is 2 1 W_; inches. K from A is 30 inches. L from B is 8 inches. M from B is 30 inches. N from D is 1 inches. O from D is 28 inches. P from F is 5 inches. Q from F is 5 '4 inches. R from F is 28 inches. S from F is 34 inches. T from H is 50 inches. U from H is I inch. Draw lines from J to L and K to M. 1 is the center of J-L, 2 from 1 is H4 inches. 3 is the center of K-M. 4 from 3 is 2 inches. 5 is located by drawing a line from D to R. 6 from 5 is 1 3 inches.. Take out 1 inch between 5 and 6 as represented. Draw lines from N to Q. from T to I and from T through S as represented. 7 is the center of N-Q. 8 from 7 is 1 }4 inches. 9 is the center of T-I. 10 from 9 is 7 inches. 1 1 from S is 1 inch. Finish the front part as represented. Back Square out lines from C, G and H as represented. V from C is 1 4 inches. W from G is 20 inches. X from H is 3! 2 inches. Y from H is 1 6 inches. Continue the line T-I as represented. Z from I is 14 inches. Connect V-W and W-Z. 12 from C is 8 inches. Connect E-12. 13 from E is 3 inches. 14 from 13 is 2J-2 inches. 15 from 14 is 4 inches. 16 from C is I 1 inches. 17 from G is 10' ^ inches. Connect 16-17. 18 from I 3 is 6 inches, 19 from 1 6 is 6 inches. Finish waist line as represented. 20 is the center of V-W. 21 fom 20 is 1/4 inches. 22 from 1 is }/) inch. Finish the back part as represented. 23 is the place for two holes. 24 is the place for inside thigh fastening. 25 is the inside elastic loop. 26 is a tab. 27 is double cloth for knee. 28 is pocket. 29 is inside ela.stic loop. 30 is a button. 31 is the edge of lining shown by dash-line. 23 is the position is saddle. JTHE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 299 Apron Riding Skirt 300 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Hints on Making Apron Riding Skirts One of the most convenient and becoming of the safety riding skirts is the Apron Riding Skirt. One position of it is cut very much on the trouser principle, and, altogether, it is easy to make, comfortable for wear, as well as safe in case of accident. The shaded portion at 27 is the position of knee when the apron is finished. The main thing is to secure plenty of room for the knee when the wearer is in the saddle, and to keep the lap portion short and hollow. For that reason a shaped seam is put from 5 through 6 to R. The Figure 11 joins point O, and you will find 11 somewhat longer than the other half of cut, and both have slightly round edges. These two edges, when sewn together, produce a condiserable cavity into which the knee fits. The fulness produced by extra length of side 11 must be sewn on and afterwards pressed back from outer edge, and so help to give shape there. The large vees on underside will be sewn with tapering effect towards 17, and the surplus material caused by the closing up of these cuts be distributed by the iron downwards over line 17. The lines V-W and J-L are the seat-seam when the apron is on, and that from I to E is the side seam. These seams will be sewn in the ordinary manner and pressed open, the opened seam being either stitched down by machine or felled down raw edge so far as the side seam is concerned. As a rule the seat portion is lined to just cover the seam with the same piece of material which goes through the front, as per dot and dash line 31, to bottom behind T. That lining must, of course, have all the shape given it that the cloth has had at 5-b, 6-1 1-R, and the piece of cloth which joins the underside Z-W. The shaped part from J-K-4-M-0, is made up with two holes, and buttons put on a broad elastic tab, which is fixed firmly on a linen stay just below front waist on the lap portion. This tab is shown at 24, close to lap cut 5 : in consequence of this arrangement, where O joins 11 and where W joins J, firm linen stays must be placed, and those points must be well tacked through the linen, so fhat the strain put upon those positions shall not split the material. The placquet-hole is merely cut down and piped with a piece of the same material, or bound in with a strip of lining. A facing can be put on the underside of opening, and a pocket put in as in the ordinary skirt; the placquet finished in this way is shown at 28 on diagram. The edges 11-T and Y-Z are stayed with a strip of linen or staytape, then turned in and stitched. If you line the front of skirt the edge 11-T will be faced with the lining before you stitch the edge down; if not, both can be felled raw edge; if the cloth of apron is of melton or other firm edge material. JTHE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 301 ^Vhen the flap portion L - J - O is fa'itened up on 24, the leg of the rider will be through the circle so formed, and so the apron fits cleanly and firmly round the leg, wheter the wearer be on horseback or on foot, just as we see it fitting round the knee on inset diagram point 32. You will notice on that diagram two loops of different shape ; these appear to be on the outside of skirt in that diagram but such is not the case; they are shown there with a view of aiding you to comprehend the.r position whe:i the wearer is in the saddle. The true position of those loops is seen at 29 at 25 of the large diagram; they are made of % inch or 1 inch elastic; that at 29 is fastened to a linen stay placed underneath the front lining and caught in the outer edge, and felled round its inner edge to skirt. 29 is about 8 inches long, fastened at both ends, and left somewhat loose in canter, so that the foot of rider can easily fit into it, and, as you will note, is placed with its bottom and about two-thirds the distance down from 11 to T, that is to say, somewhere about one-third the length of front seam up from the bottom of skirt! 25 is a double piece of sim.lar clastic fastened to a linen .stay felled on the under side; the double end of loop reaches nearly to the bottom, say wi-hin ,< or at most 4 inches of bottom; the looped portion should be about 6 or 7 inches long, and be strongly secured to skirt; into these loops the feet of the rider can be thrust at will, and be easily removed in case of necessity-. About 29 you notice a cloth tab, or you may put an elasttic tab there, and, on the whole, we would advise that as the better plan. Well this tab is fitted there with the object of enabling the wearer of the apron when ofl the horse to fasten that part of apron up at back of waist, where a button should be placed at the end of waist euts ; this has the effect of hiding the upper parts of legs when the wearer is walking. While on the horse the skirt or apron appears as we show it at small diagram, only the single portion comes against the side of the horse. The waust should be finished thinly, a;id with a neath ba.id if band be put at all — or the top of skirt turned in a.id stitched rou.id. 302 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Cutting Riding Skirts by Model Patterns In the cutting of riding skirts it is nec- essary to edjust the pattern to the length, the size of waist, and the size of the seat. In altering the length we have to bear in mind that this will also effect the distance from the waist to the knee that goes over the pommel, so that the length must be increased half above the knee and half below. For instance, suppose the length of the skirt has to be increased 2 inches, we open out the pattern at M M that amount, but we also open it out at P P half that quantity, or 1 inch. For the underside we open it out 1 inch at N and 1 inch at O; this will produce the proper adjustment at the side seam and also at the seat-seam, K L. In making corrections for the size of waist we want to bear in mind the adjust- ment necessary to the seat, for the two may go together, though this dos not necessarily follow, it is best to edjust the size of the seat first, and this is done equally at the four seams K, I, G, F. This being done, the waist comes last, and the variations necessary are made as per dot and dash line, always endeavoring to take out larger vees where there is extra prominence to provide for, and vice ver.-a. The outline used on this diagram is of an apron riding skirt that is both popular and successful. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 303 Cutting Riding Skirts by Model Patterns 304 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Ride Astride Skirt This diagram will produce a pattern to fit a lady measuring 24 inches waist, 40 inches hips, 39 inches side length. Variations may be made as follows : In length add to or take off from the bottom. In size of waist, alter the size of the V-s at the waist, enlarging or reducing them as the waist is smaller or larger. In the size of hips, alter at sideseam. In making variations for the side of hips, be careful to make the size of waist correct. Instruction for Drafting Backpart Draw^ a straight line from A to B and measure 4 1 ,'4 inches. Square line from A to K and measure from A to C \, to D 3I/4, to E 4%, to F 6J/2. to G 8, to H 10^ to 1 1 3, to J 20/8, to K Ib'ji^ inches. Square down from C, D, E, F, G, H, I, J and K. L from A is 7' 2 inches. M from C is 2}/-2 inches. N from D is 2 ' y inches. O from E is I j's inches. P from E is 5 '4 inches. Q from F is 1'4 inches. R from G is ,' 8 inch, S from G is 4's! inches. T from I is 5' 2 inches. U from J is 1 5 inches. V from K is 36'''s inches. Connect points as represented and finish the backpart. Frontpart Draw^ a stright line from A to B and measnre 4 1 ■'4 inches. Square line from A to 7 and measure from A to 1 /-.s, to 2 5:^8. to 3 \5%, to 4 20'2. to 5 23^. to 6 30 /^, to 7 3t) /'4 inches. Square down from points 1,2, 3, 4, 5, 6 and 7. L from A is 7' 2 inches. 8 from I is 2 '8 inches. 9 from 2 is 1^8 inches. 10 from 3 is 3 '8 inches. 1 1 from 3 is I 7;,' 8 inches. 12 from 4 is 3 '8 inches. 13 from 5 is 5 inches. 14 fiom 6 is 15;' 8 inches. 15 from 7 is 34/4 inches. Connect points as represented and finish the frontpart. W-X-Y-Z is an 8 inch square gusset. This ride astride skirt is cut in five parts : two fronts, two backs, and an 8 inch square gusset. Opening is arranged at left side seam and in this is a pocket inserted. One-Quarter inch seam are allowed. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 305 Ride Astride Skirt 306 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Making Ride Astride Skirts In cutting from the pattern, a reduced model of which is here placed before the reader, you will make what variations in measurement are necessary, and leave on what inlays will be useful in case extra width or length is required here or there; above all, be sure to locate all balance-marks, either by nicks, or by placing mark-threads at various pjints instead. Perhaps of more importance than the balance-marks are those lines indicated by A A and BB in Diagram 1. This diagram represents the front and back pieces, and here we have illustrated the marking of inlays and balance-marks; and, as just mentioned, the lines AA and BB are two highly important points for consideration: the former defines the amount of material or spring which is allowed in order to cause the skirt, when the wearer is off the horse, to fall in graceful folds or plaits and which, during the act of riding, affords sufficient room to permit of ease or comfort without in any way marring the freedom of action which is so essential to the rider while on horseback. The line of mark-threads, BB, on the front piece, defines the front of skirt when the rider is astride the horse, and follows the lap-cut, C, through the knee point, DD, right to bottom. We cannot lay too much stress on the importance of care in putting the pieces together, and in sewing the seams; unless these are properly put together you will experience all kinds of trouble, and the wearer of the skirt will never experience that comfort she has a right to expect from the competent tailor. The fir.st two seams with which we slia'l deal are the lep-cut, C, and the knee-cut, DD. During the operations of baisting, seaming and pressing these cuts, it is essential you should bear in mind the reason they have been provided, and the special function they have to perform. The lap-cut in all styles of riding trains, is provided, in order to obviate a lot of loose material during the act of riding; therefore it requires to be kept short during the whole process of mak- ing up, and, in addition to that, it should be kept thin there. The kne-cut, on the other hand, is provtded with the double object of clearing away loose material at one place and to give length or looseness at another; thus the part of diagram 1 marked with a cross, both front and back, is the leg-seam of this particular and when DD is sewn together, as we illustrate it at Diagram 2, a considerable prominence or length is given at the point indicated by the star. This will now form a receptacle for the knee, while the leg cut, C, just in the act of being sewn, will shorten and keep clean, or, in other words, free from loose- ness in that part of the front. The other waist-cuts are also put there with a double object: first, to afford spring o\'er the hip, and. secondly, to obviate the necessity for a lot of drawing in along the waist line. Reference of diagram 2 will show you how the sewing of the cut, C, has a tapering off at its lower end. In sewing the other waist cut this feature must be general, and when pressing the seams open be sure you disperse the loose material at bottom with the iron, so as to throw it downwards over the round of seat. Just above EE, on Diagram 1, you will notice balance-marks, which should be kept to- gether when the seams are being joined. F is the linen stay to strengthen placquethole. G being a facing of cloth which can either be left on when cutting out or sewn on afterwards. We come, now, to what is, perhaps, the most important item in the make-up of this style of skirt, viz., the insertion of the piece shown at Diagram 3. The object of this is to give spring at the crutch. You will notice a series of notches in the little square of cloth represented by Diagram ,^. On the front and back halves of skirt you will find notches to correspond, a single notch at seat-seam, a double one at front or lap-seam. Sew this piece in strongly and press the seam well open. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 307 Diagrams 4 and 5 show these notches placed togethet, so that when ail four sides are joined we obtain a considerable amount of stride in consequence of its insertion. In the absence of a lining at crutch, the seams of the piece inserted ought to be felled down to keep them from rising or doubling over. Diagram 5 shows the front and back pieces joined together at what might be called the leg seam, L being the piece shown at diagram 3, sewn to one-half of the train H I shows the same piece sewn into the front of skirt only. At J and K, diagram 5, we have the notches of diagram 3 Htting e.xactly those on front and back pieces shown at Diagram 1 and 2. An important point for consideration is that show n at M Diagram 5 This gives the position of knee, and should be well worked out to give shape and freedom at the part, while for the purpose of strengthening, a piece of linen might be felled on there. The waist can be finished off with an ordinary band, or the top turned in a.id st.tclied; m either case, be sure not to make the waist measure over tight; a little freedom is preferable in these riding skirts. The placquet can be finished of? as in the case of the ordinary skirt; hooks and eyes or patent socket fasteners can be used. The turn~up at bottom should be well pressed, and any looseness of material there well shrunk before the upturn is fastened along its upper edge; whether this is done by felling the cloth or by machine stitching through the outs.de of skirt, If thought advisable, the front of skirt can be lined through, and the other seams felled down, or you may dispense with the linings and treat all seams by felling; indeed, where tne skirt is made from firm edge material this latter pla.i is the best. 308 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Riding Coat By Direct Short Measure System No Seams allowed (How to take measurement to this system see page 292.) Measures Around Bust 40 inches. Around Waist 26 inches. Around Hips 4 1 inches. Back scye depth 7/4 inches. Back waist length 1 5 1 2 inches. Across back 1 4 inches. Over shoulder 16*4 inches. 1 Draw a straight line from 1 to 5, 2 from I is the back scye depth, in this case 7/4 inches. 3 from I is the back waist length, in this case I 334 inches. 4 from 3 is 6 inches. 5 from 2 is the full length, in this case 44 in. 6 from 2 is the half across back, and '4 inch more, in this case 7/4 inches. 7 from 2 is '4 full bust measure plus '2 inch, in this case 10' 2 inches. 9 from 2 is the half around bust measure and I inch more, in this case 21 inches. 8 from 9 is the average chest measure, consist- ing of half across Chest measure (7 '2) and halt across Bust measure (9' 2) added togeth- er and divided in half, in th.s case 8' 2 in. 10 from 9 is one-quarter of line 2-9. 1 1 is located by drawing a square line down from 7. 12 from I is Vx full Bust measure, in this case 2/2 inches. 13 from 12 is '4 inch on line squared up from 12. 14 from 6 is I inch less than the Back Scye- depth measure, in this case 6 '4 inches. 15 from 1 4 is 3^2 inch. 16 from 3 is I inch. 17 is located by drawing a line from 1 to 16. 18 is about the center of 13-1 5. 19 from 8 IS the front should ar measure less the back neck from I to 12. 20 from 8 is the over shoulder measure less the width from I 7 to 18. 2 1 from 19 is '4 inch less than 13-15. 22 from 8 is 1 '2 inches. 23 from 19 is the same as 1-12. 24 from 23 is the same as 1-12. 25 from 19 is the front waist length measure less the back neck from 1 to 12. 26 from 19 is the bust depth measure less the width of back neck from 1 to 12. 27 from 19 is the side waist length measure less the back neck from 1 to 12. 28 from 16 is one-sixth part of 7-1 7. 29 from 15 is 2' 2 inches. 30 is located by drawing a curved line from 29 to 28 as represented. 31 is located by dravifing a square line down from 28. Front shoulder 12/4 inches. Front waist length 23 Jo inches. Bust depth 1 5 inches. Side waist length 21*4 inches. Across Chest 1 5 inches. Across Bust 19 inches. Sleeve length 1 8 inches. 32 from 28 is 1 inch. 33 from 31 is '4 inch. 34 from 27 is '4 inch. 35 from 27 is '4 inch. 36 is the half-way from 7 to 30. 37 is the half-way from 32 to 34. 38 is located by drawing a line from 36 through 37. 39 from 37 is '/i inch. 40 from 37 is ''2 inch. 41 from 38 is '4 inch. 42 from 38 is '4 inch. 43 from 1 1 is ' 2 inch. 44 from 1 1 is 1 inch. 45 from 25 is 2 inches. 46 is located by drawing a line from 9 through 45. 47 from 26 is 1 ' 2 inches. 48 is located by drawing a line from 47 par- allel with line 9-46. 49 from 48 is one-third of the front waist sup- ression. 50 from 49 is the front waist supression. 51 from 47 is the same length as 47-49. 52 is located by drawing a line from 49 par- allel with line 45-46. 53 is located by drawing a line from 51 par- allel with line 7-1 1. 54 is located by drawing a line from the middle 3-16 through point 4. 55 is located by a square line down from 28. 56 is located by drawing a line from the mid- dle of 28-32 through point 33 and is the same length from 32 as 28-55. 57 is located by drawing a line from 37 through 41. 58 is located b> drawing a line from 37 through 42 and is the same length from 39 as 40-5 7. 59 is located by drawing a line from 27 through 43. 60 is located by drawing a line from 2 7 through 44 and is the same length from 35 as 34-59. 61 is located by connecting the line 51-53, 62 from 61 is '4 inch. 63 from 49 is the same length as 51-62 64 from 19 is 1 inch. Add for single breasted button stand, and shape lapel and bottom as represented. From centre line to tabe make 6 inches more than from centre line to button, or 10 inches as shown. Si^B^m£BSmj^ CUTTER 309 Riding Coat 23 64 19 310 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Riding Coat By Direct Short Measure System As inch Seams are allowed (How to take measurement to this system see page 292.) Measures Around Bust 40 inches. Around Waist 26 inches. Around Hips 4 1 inches. Back scye depth 7'4 inches. Back waist length 1 5 ' j inches. Across back 1 4 inches. Over shoulder 16*4 inches. Front shoulder 1 2 '4 inches. Front waist length 231 j inches. Bust depth 1 5 inches. Side w^aist length 21*4 inches. Across Chest 1 3 inches. Across Bust 19 inches. Sleeve length 1 8 inches. To Draft A, Square both w^ays from A as represented. B from A is the Scye depth measure, in this case 7/4 inches. C from A is the waist length measure, in this case 1 5 2 inches. D from C is 6 inches. Square out lines from B, C and D. E from B is the half Bust measure plus 4 inches, in this case 24 inches, F is the center between B and E. G is the center between E and F. H from B is the acros back measure, in this case 7 inches. I from A is 5 ' _■ inches. J from I is 2 '4 inches on line squared out from 1. K from A is the half E-G, in this case 3 inches, L IS located by a line squared out from K. M from H is I inch. N from M is 's inch less than B from A on line squared out from M, in this case 6',x in. O from N is ' 2 inch on line drawn from L through N. P is the centtr of M-N, S from E is the average chest measure, consist- ing of half acro33 Chest ( 7 ' ^ ) and half across Bu»t (9' 2) added together and divided in half (8 '2) plus '4 inch, in this case 9/4 in. R is located by applying the Front shoulder measure from A to L and continued from S to R plus 1 '4 inches, in this case 12 '4 plus 1 4 IS 13' 2 inches. T is located by applying the over shoulder measure from B to the middle of the back shoulder L-O and continued froin S to F plus 1 4 inches, in this case 17 2 inches, U from R is '^ longer than L-O on line drawn from R through 1 ; ihis \j inch is to be taken off at point R as represanted. V from S is 2 inches. \V from R is 2 inch( s. X from W is '4 inch more than K from A, in this case 3 '4 inches. Y is located by a line squared down from E. Z is located by a liee squared down from F. 1 is located on line squared down from F by applying the Side vi^aist length measure A to L and continued from R to 1 plus 1 '4 inches, in this case 22 '2 inches. 2 is located on line squared down from E by aspplying the Front waist length measure from A to L and continued from R to 2 plus I inch, in this case 24'2 inches. 3 from C is I '2 inches. 4 from D is 1 inch. 5 from M is '4 inch. 6 from 5 is •'4 inch. 7 from 3 is 6 inches. 8 IS located by shaping from 6 to 7. 9 from 4 is 6 '4 inches. 10 from 7 is /2 inch. 1 1 from 9 is 2 inches. 12 from F is '4 inch. 13 from 1 is ' 2 inch. 14 from 1 3 is 3 inches. 15 from I 3 is ',s inch. 16 from 13 is JU inch. 17 from 2 is 2 inches. 18 is located on line squared down from G by applying the Bust depth measure from A to L and continued from R to 18 plus 1 '4 inches, in thi.s case 16*4 inches. 19 from 18 is 1/2 inches. 20 is located byline drawn from 19 parallel with line E- 1 7. ine drawn from 1 9 parallel inch, inch. 21 IS located by with line E- 1 7 22 from 20 is '/2 23 from 2 1 is 'x 24 from 22 ii 3 inches. 25 from 19 ii the same length ai 22 from 1 9. 26 from li is 3 inches. 27 trom A is the full length desired. 28 is located on line squrred out from 27. 29 is located on line squared out from 2 7. 30 from 29 is 1 '4 inches. 31 from 21 is iKe same length as 30 from 15. 32 is about 16 inches below the waist line. 33 from 32 IS about 9 inches. Allow for a single-breasted button ftand stand 2 inches, and for a vent at the back about 2-3 inches, and finish the draft as represented. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 31 1 Riding Coat By Direct Short Measure System /!s inch Seams are allowed 312 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Pantaloon Skirt The Pantaloon or Harem Skirt consists of the divided hose and outside skirt. Both garments may be made from the same mate- rial, although the divided part is frequently made from a thinner stuff. The outside skirt is illustrated with diagram A is the nevv^est style of ladies outdoor walking skirt. Diagram of Divided Hose or Pantaloon Measures : Waist 24 inches Hips 40 inches Side length 42 inches Rise 1 2 inches Forepart 1 Draw a straight line from 1 to 4. 2 from 1 is the Hip line 6 inches always. 3 from 1 is the Rise measure and 2 inches more, 1 4 inches. 4 from I is the side length 42 inches. Square out lines from 1 , 2, 3, 4 as rep- resented. 5 from I is /8 Hip measure less 1 2 inch, 43-2 inches. 6 from 2 is yg Hip measure, 5 inches. 7 from 3 is % Hip measure, 5 inches. Connect points 5-6-7. 8 from 7 is the half distance of 3 - 7 and /<> inch more, 3 inches. 9 is located by squaring down from 8. 10 from 6 is J4 Hip measure, 10 inches. 1 1 from 9 is ''2 Hip measure, 20 inches. 12 is located by drawing a line from 1 I through 1 0. 5-12 should be '4 w^aist; take out the balance in V-s as represented. 13 from 7 is half distance of 7-8, 1 }4 inches. Shape fork as represented. 14 from 12 is the side length 42 inches. Shape bottom as represented. Underpart 15 from 10 is I'o inches, 16 is located by drawing a line from 14 through I 5 and is the same length as 14-12. 1 7 from 5 is ' ■> inch. 18 from 1 7 is 3 inches on line drawn from 8 through I 7. 17-18 should be 34 waist ; take out the balance in V-s as represented. 19 from 8 is 4 inches. Connect points 9-19. 9-19 is the same length as 9-8. Shape fork as represented. Allovkf for all seams. The Bearers The diagram marked B shows that the top of the forepart has been reduced 3 inches. The underpart, diagram C shows the bearer is 12*2 inches at the sideseam or opening and the depth at the fork is 3 inches. The bearer is shaped as shown on the diagram, and is sewn with sideseam of fore- part ; the underpart forms the fall at the back or, in other vk^ords, the backpart of a lady's divided skirt is the reverse of a man's pair of whole-fall trousers. THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 313 Pantaloon Skirt 314 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER Ladies Riding Breeches Measures Side length 40 inches, Rise (from waist to seat of chair) 12 inches, Leg length (difference between side length and ris8) 28 inches. Full length as desired, say 36 inches, Waist 24 inches. Seat 42 inches, Knee 1 5 inches. Small knee 1 3 inches. Calf 1 5 inches. Bottom (at the full length of breeches) 12 inches. (Measurement of Knee, Small knee. Calf and Bottom are taken by the lady herself.) To Draft Forepart this from C. in this A. Square both ways from A as represented. B from A is the Rise measure, in this case 1 2 inches. Square out from B as represented. C from B is 14. full seat measure, ii case 10' 2 inches. D from B is ' ;{ full seat measure plu inch, in this case 14'4 inches. E from B is the center of B-D less ' s in this case 7 inches. F is located by a line squared up G from C is the same as E fror case 7 inches. H from C is the half of C-D plus '4 inch, in this case 2 ' s inches. Shape D-H-G as represented. Square both w^ays from E as represented. I from E is 3 inches. J from E is 9 inches. K from J is 1 inch on line squared out from J. L is located by drawing a line from 1 through K and longer. M from L is the half leg length measure, less I inch, in this case 1 3 inches. N from M IS 2' J inches. O from N is 3'^ inches. P from about the middle of the waist line A-F down is the full length desired plus I inch, in this case 37 inches. Q from M is '4 Knee measure, in this case 3*4 inches. R from N is '4 Small knee mea.sure, in this case 3'4 inches. S from O is ' 3 '4 inches. T from P is ' 3 inches. U from M is Calf measure, in this case Bottom measure, in this case Kne less rneasure inches, in this case 2 inches. V from P is 4 Bottom measure inches, in this case 1 '4 inches. W is located by drawing a line from U to V. X is located by drawing a line from U to V. Y is the center on line drawn from U to B. Z from Y is 1 inch. 1 from B is 1 2 inch. 2 from A is Vi:.' of the full waist measure, in this case 2 inches. 3 from F is 'K inch. Draw a line from 2 to 3. 4 from 3 is ' s full waist measure plus 34 inch, in this case 3'4 inches. 5 from 2 is ' s full waist masure plus 3^rs ^>K . ■ o ' 1 "* , 7 o \ ' J '<\ A / 1 \\ ^ C \ o 7 f Q O in 1^ ABC 326 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER ABC ABC THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 327^ ABC ABC 328 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 329 330 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 331 332 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER 333 334 THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER INDEX Title 5 Preface 7 Introduction 9 What a Designer should know 10 Ladies' Tailors Qualifications 10 System 11 Good lines 11 Contrasts 12 Fashions 12 Style 12 PART ONE Womens' Garments How to take Measurement 14-15 Comparative Proportions for Normal Wom- ens' Sizes 17 Table of Proportionate Masurements for Women 17 Systematic Outline 18-19 Tight-Fitting with one dart 20-21 Tight-Fitting with two darts 22-23 Tight-Fitting back and Semi-Fitting front 24-25 26-27 28-29 30-31 32-33 34-35 36-37 B.ouse Basque or Tunic Skirt Tight-Fitting Eton with one Dart Tight-Fitting Eton with two Darts Tig^it-Fitting Eton with one Side Gore Tight-Fitting Eton with French Seam Tight-Fitting French Seam with underarm Gore 38-39 Tight-Fitting Double French Seam 40-41 Tight-Fitting 18 Gores 42-43 Tight-Fitti.ig 22 Gores 44-45 Semi-Fitting Back and Loose Front 46-47 Semi-Fitting with Dart in front 48-49 Semi-Fitting French Seam 50-51 Semi-Fitting Hipless Effect 52-53 Semi-Fitting Coat with underarm Gore 54-55 Sack Coat with Loose Front 56-57 Sack Coat with Shaped Front 58-59 How to make Shoulder-Dart 60-61 Loose Box Coat 62-63 Loose Box Coat with Front-Shoulder Dart 64-65 Coat Sleeve 66-67 Sleeve with fulness on toj) 68-69 One Piece Sleeve 68-fc9 Bishop Sleeve 70-71 One Piece Tight Sleeve 72-73 One Piece Tight Sleeve with middle seam 72-73 Collars and Lapels 74-75 Collars 76-77 Capes 78-79 Yoke and Hood 80-81 Cape Coat 82-83 Cape with Kimono Sleeve 84-83 Coat with Kimono Sleeve 86-87 Raglan Coat 88-89 Deep Armhole Coat 90-91 One Piece Coat 92-93 New Market 94-95 Inverness 96-97 Opera Cloak 98-99 Manipulation of Fronts and Backs 100-101 Vest 102-105 Stouts 106 Table of Proportionote Measurement for Stouts 107 Semi-Fitting French Seam for Stout 108-109 Shirt Waist 110-111 Shirt waist with Side gore 112-113 Tight-Fitting Waist Lining 114-115 Tight-Fitting Waist Lining with Side gore 116-117 Sleeve for Waist 118-119 One Piece Sleeves 120-123 Standing or Military Collar 124-125 Collars for waists 126-127 Yoke 128-129 Shield 128-129 Waist with Kimono Sleeves 130-131 One Piece Butterfly Waist 132-133 Waist with Raglan Sleeve 132-133 Measurement for Skirts 134-135 Systematic Outline for Skirts 136-137 Two Gore Skirt 138-139 Three and Four Gore Skirt 140-141 Four Gore (Panel) Skirt 142-143 Five Gore Skirt 144-145 Six Gore Skirt 146-147 Seven Gore Skirt 148-249 Nine Goi-e Flare Skirt 150-151 Eleven Gore Flounce Skirt 152-153 Thirteen Gore Plaited Skirt 154-135 Circular Skirts 156-157 Circular Skirt in Gores 158-159 Princess Skirt 160-161 Skirt with fixed bottom wilth 132-163 Skirts for Stouts ie4-lC5 Princess Slip 166-167 PART TWO Misses' Garments Table of Proportionate Measureme^.ts for Misses' Sizes 17] Systematic Outline for Misses' Sizes 172-173 Tight-Fitting French Seam 174-175 Semi-Fitting-witting with Dart in Front 176-177 Sack Coat with Loose Front 178-179 Loose Box Coat 180-181 Blouse 182-183 Sleeve 184-185 Systematic Outline for Misses' Skirts 186-187 Seven Gore Skirt 188-189 PART THREE Juniors' Garments Table of Proportionate Measurement for Juniors' Sizes 193 Semi-Fitting French Seam 194-195 LTBRflRY OF CONGRESS 013 973 177 3 Loose Box Coat Blouse Sleeve Five Gore Skirt Circular Skirt 1%-197 198-199 200-201 202-203 204-205 209 211 213 215 217 219 221 223 225 .227 229 233 235 237 239 PART FOUR Childrens' Garments Table of Proportionate Measurements for Childrens' Sizes 208- Systematic Outline 210 Tight-Fitting 212- Semi-Fitting 214- Sack Coat 216- Loose Box Coat 218- Sleeve 220 Tight-Fitting Waist Lining 222 Waist 224- Coat Dress 226 Military or Standing Collar 228 One Piece Sleeves 230- Collars 234- Systematic Outline for Childrens' Skirts 236 Five Gore Skirt 238- PART FIVE Infants' Garments Table of Proportionate Measurements for Infants' Sizes 243 Systematic Outline for Infants' Sizes 244-245 Loose Box Coat 246-247 Sleeve 248-249 Coat Dress 250-251 One Piece Sleevesl 252-253 Infants' Yoke \ 254-255 Infants' Shield 254-255 Hood 256-257 PART SIX Grading Art of Grading 260 Scale of Regular Stock Patterns 261 Tight-Fitting with Dart 262 Semi-Fitting with Side Gore 263 Eton 264 Semi-Fitting French Seam 265 Tight-Fitting French Seam 266 Tight-Fitting Double French Seam 267 How to grade Misses' Sizes from Ladies' Size Patterns 2(i8 Misses' and Juniors' Tight-Fitting 269 Misses' and Juniors' Tight-Fitting French Seam 270 Childrens' and Infants' Semi-Fitting 271 Childrens' and Infants' Loose Box Coat 272 Sleeves 273 Capes, Yokes, Collars, Cuffs 274 Length of Garments 275 Grading Lengths 275 Grading Skirts 276 PART SEVEN Special Measurement Foundation of Garment Cutting 278-279 How to take Special Measurement 280-281 Systematic Outline for Special Measure- ment 282-283 Tight-Fitting French Seam 284-285 Semi-Fitting with Dart in Front 286-287 Systematic Outline, No Seams 288-289 Tight-Fitting Jacket, No Seams 290-291 How to take Special Measurement for Direct Short Measure System 292 PART EIGHT Riding and Sporting Garments Riding Skirts 294-295 Side Saddle Safety Riding Skirt 296-297 Apron Riding Skirt 298-299 Hints on Making Apron Riding Skirts 300-301 Cutting Riding Skirts by Model Patterns 302-303 Ride Astride Skirt 304-305 Making Ride Astride Skirts 306-307 Riding Coat, Special Measure, No Seams 308-309 Riding Coat, Special Measure, with Seams 310-311 Pantaloon Skirt 312-313 Ladies' Riding Breeches 314-315 Leggings 316 Gaiters 316 PART NINE Practical Tailoring 317-318 Fitting Sketching PART TEN PART ELEVEN PART TWELVE 335-336 c^,^ (^~ /n LIBRARY OF CONGRESS