iiii^mm :i THE STORY OF THE PHILIPPINES AND OUR NEW POSSESSIONS, INCLUDING The Ladrones, Hawaii, Cuba and Porto Rico, :^f-Z ^ X / THE GOVERNOR-GENERAL OF THE PHILIPPINE ISLANPf HE STORY OF THE PHILIPPINES NATURAL RICHES, INDUSTRIAL RESOURCES, STATISTICS OF PRODUCTIONS, COMMERCE AND POPULATION; THE LAWS, HABITS, CUSTOMS, SCENERY AND CONDITIONS OF THE CUBA OF THE EAST INDIES AND THE THOUSAND ISLANDS OF THE ARCHIPELAGOES OF INDIA AND HAWAII, WITH EPISODES OF THEIR EARLY HISTORY THE ELDORADO OF THE ORIENT Personal Character Sketches of and Interviews with Admiral Dewey, General Merritt, General Aguinaldo and the Archbishop of Manila. HISTORY AND ROMANCE, TRAGEDIES AND TRADITIONS OF OUR PACIFIC POSSESSIONS. EVENTS OF THE WAR IN THE WEST WITH SPAIN, AND THE CONQUEST OF CUBA AND PORTO RICO. BY MURAT HALSTEAD, War Correspondent in America and Europe, Historian of the Philippine Expedition. Splendidly and Picturesquely Illustrated with Half-Tone Engravings from Photographs, Etchings from Special Drawings, and the Military Maps of the Philippines, Prepared by the War Department of the United States. OUR POSSESSIONS PUBLISHING CO. Copyrighted, 1898, bv H. L. BARB-BK, Chicago, Hi., U. S. A. LC Control Number 2001 529894 The engravings in this volume were made from original photographs, ana are specially protected by copyright; and notice is hereby given, that any person or persons guilty of reproducing or in- fringing upon the copyright in any way will be dealt with according to law. INSCRIBED TO THE SOLDIERS AND SAILORS OF THE ARMY AND NAVY OF THE UNITED STATES, With Admiration for Their Achievements In the War With Spain; Gratitude for the Glory They Have Gained for the American Nation, And Congratulations That All the People of All the Country Rejoice in the Cloudless Splendor of Their Fame That is the Common and Everlasting Inheritance of Americans. AUTHOR'S PREFACE The purpose of the writer of the pages herewith presented has been to offer, in popular form, the truth touching the Philippine Islands. I made the journey from New York to Manila, to have the benefit of personal observations in preparing a history for the people. Detention at Honolulu shortened my stay in Manila, but there was much in studies at the former place that was a help at the latter. The original programme was for me to accompany General Merritt, Commander-in-Chief of the Philippine Expedition, but illness prevented its full realization, and when I arrived in Manila Bay the city had already been ^^occupied and possessed" by the American army; and the declaration of peace between the United States and Spain was made, the terms fully agreed upon with the exception of the settlement of the affairs of the Philippines. While thus prevented from witnessing stirring mili- tary movements other than those attending the transfer of our troops across the Pacific Ocean, an event in itself of the profoundest significance, the reference of the determination of the fate of the Philippine Islands to the Paris Conference, and thereby to the public opinion of our country, in extraordinary measure increased the general sensibility as to the situation of the southern Oriental seas affecting our- selves, and enhanced the value of the testimony taken on the spot of observers of experience, with the training of journalism in distinguishing the relative pertinence and potency of facts noted. Work for more than forty years, in the discussion from day to day of current history, has qualified me for the efficient exercise of my faculties in the labor undertaken. It has been my undertaking to state that which appeared to me, so that the reader may find pictures of the scenes that tell the Story that concerns the country, that the public may with enlightenment solve the naval, military, political, commercial and religious problems we are called upon by the peremptory pressure of the conditions local, and international, to solve im- mediately. This we have to do, facing the highest obligations of citizenship in the great American Eepublic, and conscious of the incomparably influential character of the principles that shall prevail through the far-reaching sweep of the policies that 13 14 AUTHOR'S PREFACE. will be evolved. I have had such advantages in the assurance of the authenticity of the information set forth in the chapters following, that I may be permitted to name those it was my good fortune to consult with instructive results; and in making the acknowledgments due. I may be privileged to support the claim of diligence and success in the investigations made, and that I am warranted in the issue of this Story of the Philippines by the assiduous improvement of an uncommon opportunity to fit myself to serve the country. Indebtedness for kind consideration in this work is gratefully acknowledged to Major-General Merritt, commanding the Phihppine Expedition; Major-General Otis, who succeeds to the duties of military and civil administration in the conquered capital of the. islands; Admiral George Dewey, who improved, with statesmanship, his unparalleled victory in the first week of the war with Spain, and raised the immense questions before us; General F. V. Greene, the historian of the Russo- Turkish war, called by the President to Washington, and for whose contri- butions to the public intelligence he receives the hearty approval and confi- dence of the people; Major Bell, the vigilant and efficient head of the Bureau of Information at the headquarters of the American occupation in the Philippines; General Aguinaldo, the leader of the insurgents of his race in Luzon, and His Grace the Archbishop of Manila, who gave me a message for the United States, expressing his appreciation of the excellence of the behavior of the American army in the enforcement of order, giving peace of mind to the residents in the distracted city of (all persuasions and conditions, and of the service that was done civilization in the prevention, by our arms, of threatened barbarities that had caused sore apprehen- sion; and, I may add, the Commissioner of the Organized People of the Philippines, dispatched to Washington accompanying General Greene; and of the citizens of Manila of high character, and conductors of business enterprises with plants in the community whose destiny is in the hands of strangers. These gentlemen I may not name, for there are uncertainties that demand of them and command me to respect the prudence of their inconspicuity. This volume seems to me to be justified, and I have no further claim to offer that it is meri- torious than that it is faithful to facts and true to the country in advocacy of the continued expansion of the Republic, whose field is the world. Steamship China, Pacific Ocean, September 20, 1898. THE ORIGIN OF THIS STORY OF THE PHILIPPINES. The letter following is the full expression by the author of this volume of his purposes and principles in making the journey to the East Indies. GOING TO THE PHILIPPINES. Washington City, D. C, July 18. With the authorization of the Military Authorities, I shall go to the Philippine Islands with General Merritt, the Military Governor, and propose to make the American people better acquainted with that remarkable and most important and interesting country. The presence of an American army in the Philippines is an event that will change broad and mighty currents in the world's history. It has far more significance than anything transpiring in the process of the conquest of the West India possessions of Spain, for the only question there, ever since the Continental colonies of the Spanish crown won their independence, has been the extent of the sacrifices the Spaniards, in their haughty and vindictive pride, vrould make in fighting for a lost Empire and an impossible cause with an irresistible adversary. That the time was approaching when, with the irretrievable steps of the growth of a living Nation of free people, we would reach the point where it should be our duty to accept the responsibility of the dominant American power, and accomplish manifest Destiny by adding Cuba and Porto Eico to our dominion, has for half a cen- tury been the familiar understanding of American citizens. Spain, by her abhorrent sys- tem, personified in We3der, and illustrated in the murderous blowing up of the Maine with a mine, has forced this duty upon us; and though we made war unprepared, the good work is going on, and the finish of the fight will be the relegation of Spain, whose colonial governments have been, without exception, disgraceful and disastrous to herself, and curses to the colonists, to her own peninsula. This will be for her own good, as well as the redemption of mankind from her unwholesome foreign influ- ' ences, typified as they are in the beautiful city of Havana, which has become the 15 16 THE OEIGIX OF THIS STOEY. center of political plagues and pestilential fevers, ^'liose contagion lias at frequent intervals reached our own shores. In the Philippine Islands the situation is for us absolutely novel. It cannot be said to be out of the scope of reasonable American expansion and is in the right line of enlarging the area of enlightenment and stimulating the progress of civilization. The unexpected has happened, but it is not illogical. It must have been written long ago on the scroll of the boundless blue and the stars. The incident of war was the "rush" order of the President of the United States to Admiral Dewey to destroy the Spanish fleet at Manila, for the protection of our commerce. The deed was done with a flash of lightning, and lo! we hold the goldei? key of a splendid Asiatic archipelago of a thousand beautiful and richly endowed islands in our grip. This is the most brilliant and startling achievement in the annals of navies. Xever before had the sweep of sea power, ordered through the wires that make the world's continents, oceans and islands one huge whispering gallery, such striking exempliti- cation. There was sflorv and fame in it. and immeasurable material for the makins: of history. "We may paraphrase Dr. Johnson's celebrated advertisement of the widow's brewery by saying: Admiral Dewey's victory was not merely the capture of a harbor commanding a great citj', one of the superb places of the earth, and the security of a base of operations to wait for reinforcements commensurate with the resources of the United States of America — the victorious hero fixed his iron hand upon a wonderful opportunity it was the privilege of our Government to secure at large, according to the rights of a victorious IN'ation for the people thereof — a chance for the youth of America, like that of the youth of Great Britain, to realize upon the magnificence of India; and this is as Dr. Johnson said of the vats and barrels of the Thralc estate — "the potentiality of wealth beyond the dreams of avarice." It is a new departure, but not a matter for the panic or apprehension of conservatism, that the Stars and Stripes fioat as the symbol of sovereignty over a groiip of islands in the waters of Asia, that are equal to all the West Indies. If we are strangers there now we shall not be so long. We have a front on the Pacific Ocean, of three great States — Washington, equal to England; Oregon, whose grandeur rolls in the sound of her famous name, and incomparable California, whose title will be the synonym of golden good times forever. The Philippines are southwest from our western front doors. They have been the islands of our sunsets in the winter. Now they look to us for the rosy dawn out of which will come the clear brightness of the white light of mornings and the fullness of the ripening noons, all the year around. With our bulk of the North American continent bulging into both the great oceans, it was foreordained since the beginning when God created the earth, that we, the possessors THE OEIGIX OF THIS STOEY. 17 of this imperial American zone, should be a great Asiatic Power. We have it now in evidence, written in islands among the most gorgeous of those that shine in the Southern seas — islands that are east from the Atlantic and west from the Pacific shores of the One Great Eepublic — that we may personify hereafter, sitting at the head of the table when the empires of the earth consult themselves as to the courses of empire. Our Course of Empire is both east and west. The contact of American and Asiatic civilization in the Philippines, with the American army there, superseding the Spaniards, will be memorable as one of the matters of chief moment in the closing days of the nineteenth century, and remem- bered to date from for a thousand years. It is my ^Durpose to write of this current history while it is a fresh, sparkling stream, and attempt something more than the recitation of the news of the day, as it is condensed and restrained in telegrams; to give it according to the extent of my ability and the advantages of my opportunity, the local coloring, the characteii^itic scenery; the pen pictures of the people and their pursuits; sketches of the men who are doers of deeds that make history; studies of the wa3'S and means of the islanders; essays to indicate the features of the picturesque of the strange mixture of races; the revolu- tionary evolutions of j^olitics; the forces that pertain to the mingling of the religions of the Occident and the Orient, in a chemistry untried through the recorded ages'. It is a tremendous canvas upon which I am to labor, and I know full well how inade- quate the production must be, and beg that this index m^ay not be remembered against me. It is meant in all modesty, and I promise only that there will be put into the task the expertness of experience and the endeavor of industry. / CONTENTS. AUTHOE'S PREFACE 13-14 THE ORIGIN OF THIS STORY OF THE PHILIPPINES 15-17 CHAPTER I. ADMIRAL DEWEY ON HIS FLAGSHIP. A Stormy Day on Manila Bay — Call on Admiral Dewey — The Man in White — He Sticks to His Ship — How He Surprised the Spaniards — Every Man Did His Duty on May-Day — How Dewey Looks and Talks — What He Said About War With Germany in Five Minutes — Feeds His Men on "Delicious" Fresh Meat from Australia — Pho- tography Unjust to Him 29-37 CHAPTER 11. LIFE IN MANILA. Character of the Filipinos — Drivers Lashing Laboring Men in the Streets — What Americans Get in Their Native xlir — The Logic of Destiny — Manila as She Fell Into Our Hands — The Beds in the Tropics — A Spanish Hotel — Profane Yells for Ice — Sad Scenes in the Din- ing Room — Major-General Calls for "Francisco" — A Broken- Hearted Pantry Woman 38-44 CHAPTER III. FROM LONG ISLAND TO LUZON. Across the Continent — An American Governor-General Steams Through the Golden Gate — He is a Minute-Man — Honolulu as a Health Resort — The Lonesome Pacific — The Skies of Asia — Dreaming Under the Stars of the Scorpion — The Southern Cross ,. . . .45-51 CHAPTER IV. INTERVIEW WITH GENERAL AGUINALDO. The Insurgent Leader's Surroundings and Personal Appearance — His Re- serves and Ways of Talking — The Fierce Animosity of the Filipinos Toward Spanish Priests — A Probability of Many Martyrs in the Isle of Luzon 52-60 19 20 CONTENTS. CHAPTEE V. THE PHILIPPINE MISSION. Correspondence with Aguinaldo About It — Notes by Senor Felipe Agon- cillo — Eelations Bet^yeen Admiral Dewe}' and Senor Aguinaldo — Terms of Peace Made by Spanish Governor-General with Insur- gents, December,. 1897 — Law Suit Between Aguinaldo and Arlacho — Aguinaldo's Proclamation of May 24, 1898 61-68 CHAPTEE YI. THE PEOCLAMATIONS OE GENEEAL AGUINALDO. June 16th, 1898, Establishing Dictatorial Government— June 20th, 1898, Instructions for Elections — June 23d, 1898, Establishing Eevolu- tionary Government — June 23d, 1898, Message to Foreign Powers — June 27th, 1898, Instructions Concerning Details — July 23d, 1898, Letter from Senor Aguinaldo to General Anderson — August 1st, 1898, Eesolution of Eevolutionary Chiefs Asking Eecognition — = August 6th, 1898, Message to Foreign Powers Asking Eecognition. . . .69-85 CHAPTEE VII. INTEEVIEW WITH AECHBISHOP OF MANILA. Insurgents' Deadly Hostility to Spanish Priests — The Position of, the Arch- bishop as He Defined It — His Expression of Gratitude to the American Army — His Characterization of the Insurgents — A Work of Philippine Art — The Sincerity of the Archbishop's Good Words. . . .86-90 CHAPTEE VIII. WHY WE HOLD THE PHILIPPINES. The Eesponsibility of Admiral Dewey — We Owe It to Ourselves to Hold the Philippines — Prosperity Assured by Oui; Permanent Possession —The Aguinaldo Question— Character Study of the Insurgent Leader — How Affairs Would Adjust Themselves for Us — Congress Must Be Trusted to Eepresent the People and Firmly Establish International Pohcy 91-98 CHAPTEE IX. THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS AS THEY AEE. Area and Population— Climate— Mineral Wealth— Agriculture— Com- merce and Transportation— Eevenue and Expenses— Spanish Troops— Spanish Navy— Spanish Civil Administration — Insurgent Troops — Insurgent Civil Administration— United States Troops— United States Navy— United States Civil Administration— The Future of the Islands - - - .99-136 CONTEXTS. 21 CHAPTEE X. OFFICIAL HISTOEY OF THE CONQUEST OF MANILA. The Pith of the Official Eeports of the Capture of Manila, by Major-General Wesley Merritt, Commanding the Philippine Expedition; General Frank V. Greene, General Arthur Mc Arthur, and G'eneral Thomas Anderson, with the Articles of Capitulation, Showing How 8,000 Americans Carried an Intrenched City with a Garrison of 13,000 Spaniards, and Kept Out 1-1,000 Insurgents — The Difficulties of American Generals with Philippine Troops 137-159 CHAPTEE XL THE ADMINISTEATION OF GENEEAL MEEEITT. The Official Gazette Issued at Manila-^Orders and Proclamation of Major- General Wesley Merritt, Who, as Commander of the Philippine Expedition, Became, Under the Circumstances of the Capture of Manila, the Governor of That City 160-172 CHAPTEE XII. THE AMEEICAN AEMY IN MANILA. Why the Boys Had a Spell of Homesickness — Disadvantages of the Tropics — Admiral Dewey and His Happy Men — How Our Soldiers Passed the Time on the Ships — General Merritt's Headquarters — AVhat Is Public Property — The Manila Water Supply — England Our Friend — Major-General Otis, General Meritt's Successor 173-183 CFIAPTEE XIII. THE WHITE UNIFOEMS OF CUE HEEOES IN THE TEOPICS. The Mother Hubbard Street Fashion in HojioIuIu, and That of Eiding Astride — Spoiling Summer Clothes in Manila Mud — The White Eaiment of High Officers — Drawing the Tine on Nightshirts — Ashamed of Big Toes — Dewey and Merritt uS Figures of Show — The Boys in White 184-187 CHAPTEE XIV. A MAETYE TO THE LIBEETY OF SPEECH. Dr. Jose Eizal, the Most Distinguished Literary Man of the Philippines, Writer of History, Poetry, Political Pamphlets, and Novels, Shot on the Luneta of Manila — A Likeness of the Martyr — The Scene of His Execution, from a Photograph — His Wife Married the Day Before His Death — Poem Giving His Farewell Thoughts, Written in His Last Hours— The Works That Cost Him His Life— The Vision of Friar Eodriguez 188-201 22 CONTEXTS. CHAPTER XV. EVENTS OF THE SPANISH-AMEEICAN WAR. No Mystery About the Cause of the War— The Expected and the Inevitable Has Happened — The Tragedy of the Maine— Vigilant Wisdom of President McKinley — Dewey's Prompt Triumph— The Battles at Manila and Santiago Compared — General Shatter Tells of the Bat- tle of Santiago — Report of AYainwright Board on Movements of Sampson's Fleet in the Destruction of Cervera's Squadron— Stars and Stripes Raised Over Porto Rico — American and Spanish Fleets at Manila Compared — Text of Peace Protocol 202-240 CHAPTER XVI. THE PEACE JUBILEE. The Lessons vof War in the Joy Over Peace in the Celebrations at Chicago and Philadelphia — Orations by Archbishop Ireland and Judge Emory Speer— The President's Few Words of Thrilling Signifi- cance — The Parade of the Loyal League, and the Clover Club Banquet at Philadelphia — Address by the President — The Hero Hobson Makes a Speech — Fighting Bob Evans' Startling Battle Picture — The Destruction of Cervera's Fleet — The Proclamation of Thanksgiving 241-259 CHAPTER XVIL EARLY HISTORY OF THE PHILIPPINES. The Abolishment of the 31st of December, 1844, in Manila— The Mys- tery of the Meridian 180 Degrees West — What Is East and West? — 'Gaining and Losing Days — The Tribes of Native Filipinos — They Had an Alphabet and Songs of Their Own — The Massacre of Magel- lan — -His Fate Like That of Captaiu Cook — Stories of Long-Ago Wars — An Account by a Devoted Spanish Writer of the Beneficent Rule of Spain in the Philippines — Aguinaldo a Man Not of a Na- tion, But of a Tribe — Typhoons and Earthquakes — The Degen- eracy of the Government of the Philippines After It Was Taken from Mexico — "New Spain" — The Perquisites of Captain-Gen- erals — The Splendor of Manila a Century Ago 260-275 CHAPTER XVIII. THE SOUTHERN PHILIPPINES. Important Facts About the Lesser Islands of the Philippine Archipelago — Location, Size and Population — Capitals and Principal Cities — Rivers and Harbors — Surface and Soil — People and Products — Leading Industries — Their Commerce and Business Affairs — The Monsoons and Typhoons — The Terrors of the Tempests and How to Avoid Them 276-293 CONTENTS. 2; CHAPTER XIX. SPECIFICATIONS OF GRIEVANCES OF THE FILIPINOS. An Official Copy of the Manifesto of the Junta Showing the Bad Faith of Spain in the Making and Evasion of a Treaty — The Declaration of the Renewal of the War of Rebellion — Complaints Against the Priests Defined — The Most Important Document the Filipinos Have Issued — Official Reports of Cases of Persecution of Men and Women in Manila by the Spanish Authorities — Memoranda of the Proceed- ings in Several Cases in the Court of Inquiry of the United States Officers 294-307 CHAPTER XX. HAWAII AS ANNEXED. The Star Spangled Banner Up Again in Hawaii, and to Stay — Dimensions of the Islands — What the Missionaries Have Done — Religious Belief by Nationality — Trade Statistics — Latest Census — Sugar Plantation Laborers — Coinage of Silver — Schools — Coffee Growing 308-318 CHAPTER XXL EARLY HISTORY OF THE SANDWICH ISLANDS. Captain James Cook's Great Discoveries and His Martyrdom — Character and Traditions of the Hawaiian Islands — Charges Against the Famous Navigator and Effort to Array the Christian World Against Him — The True Story of His Life and Death — How Charges Against Cook Came to Be Made — Testimony of Vancouver, King and Dixon, and Last Words of Cook's Journal — Light Turned on History That Has Become Obscure — Savagery of the Natives — Their Written Language Took Up Their High Colored Traditions and Preserved Phantoms — Scenes in Aboriginal Theatricals — Prob- lem of Government in an Archipelago Where Race Questions Are Predominant^Now Americans Should Remember Captain Cook as an Illustrious Pioneer 319-344: CHAPTER XXII. THE START FOR THE LAND OF CORN STALKS. Spain Clings to the Ghost of Her Colonies— The Scene of War Interest Shifts from Manila — The Typhoon Season — General Merritt on the Way to Paris — German Target Practice by Permission of Dewey — Poultney Bigalow with Canoe, Typewriter and Kodak — Hongkong as a Bigger and Brighter Gibraltar 345-349 I 24 CONTENTS; CHAPTEE XXIII. KODAK SNAPPED AT JAPAN. Glimpses of China and Japan on the Way Home from the Phihppines— Hongkong a Greater Gibraltar — Coaling the China — Gangs of Women Coaling the China — How the Japanese Make Gardens of the Mountains — Transition from the Tropics to the Northern Seas — A Breeze from Siberia — A Thousand Miles Nothing on the Pacific —Talk of Swimming Ashore 350-359 CHAPTEE XXIV. OHE PICTUEE GALLEEY. Annotations and Illustrations — Portraits of Heroes of the War in the Army and Navy, and of the Highest Public Eesponsibilities — Admirals and Generals, the President and Cabinet — Photographs of Scenes and Incidents — The Characteristics of the Fihpinos — Their Homes, Dresses and Peculiarities in Sun Pictures — The Picturesque People of Our New Possessions , 360-365 CHAPTEE XXV. CUBA AND POETO EICO. Conditions In and Around Havana — Fortifications and Water Supply of the Capital City — Other Sections of the Pearl of the Antilles — Porto Eico, Our New Possession, Des^crlbed — Size and Population — Natural Eesources and Products — Climatic Conditions — Towns and Cities — Eailroad and Other Improvements — Future Possibilities. .366-39S CHAPTEE XXVI. THE LADEONES. The Island of Guam a Coaling Station of the United States— Discovery, Size and Products of the Islands 399-400 ILLUSTRATIONS. Frontispiece .Major-General Merritt, Governor-General of the Philippines. 1. The Principal Gate to the Walled City. 2. The Cathedral at Manila. 3. Public Buildings in Manila. 4. The Monument of Magellinos in the Walled City. 5. Southern Islanders — Showing Cocoanut Palms and the Monkey Tree, 6. A Eailroad Station isTorth of Manila — Spaniards Airing Themselves. 7. United States Peace Commissioners. 8. Senator Frye. 9. Senator Gray. 10. Ex-Secretary of State Day. 11. Senator Davis. 12. Whitelaw Reid. 13. The Luneta — Favorite Outing Grounds of Manila^ and a Place for Executing • Insurgents. 14. A Group of the Unconquerable Moharaedans. 15. Savage Native Hunters. 16. Girl's Costume to Show One Shoulder. 17. Parade of Spanish Troops on One of Their Three Annual Expeditions to the Southern Islands. 18. An Insurgent Outlook Near Manila. 19. Philippine Author-Martyr, His Wife and His Execution. 20. Dr. Eizal. 21. Dr. RizaFs Execution. 22. Dr. Rizal's Wife. 23. Dining Eoom in General Merritt's Palace at Manila. 24. A Native House. 25. Riding Buffaloes Through Groves of Date Palms. 26. A Native in Regimentals. 27. A Country Pair. 28. Peasant Costumes. 29. Woodman in Working Garb. 30. Oriental Hotel, Manila. 31. San Juan del Monte, Where Revolution Started. 32. Brigadier-General E. S. Otis. 33. Brigadier-General Thomas M. Anderson. 34. General Greene's Headquarters at Manila. 35. Manila and Its Outskirts, Showing Malate. 36. Principal Gate to the City. 37. Attack on Manila, Showing Position of Our Ships and Troops. 38. Fortifications of Manila. 25 26 ILLUSTEATIONS. 39. Interior of the Fortifications of Manila. 40. Fort Santiago at Manila, Where the American Flag Was Eaised. 41. Official Map of the Hawaiian Islands. 42. Ex-Consul General Fitzhugh Lee, Now Major-General Commanding. 43. Official Map by the War Department of the Seat of War in the Philippines, 44. The Destruction of Cervera's Spanish Squadron at Santiago. 45. Display in Manila Photograph Gallery, Insurgent Leaders. 46. A Bit of Scenery in Mindanao, Showing Tropical Vegetation. 47. Admiral Dewey's Fleet That Won the Battle of Manila Bay. 48. The Flagship Olympia. 49. The Baltimore. 50. The Concord. 51. The Raleigh. 52. The Boston. 53. The Petrel. ' 54. An Execution Entertainment on the Luneta. 55. Victims Reported Dead After the Execution. 56. Fort Weyler, Built by General Weyler When Governor of the Philippines. 57. A Public Square in Manila. 58. Scene after an Execution, Showing Prostrate Figures of the Dead. 59. A Review of Spanish Filipino Volunteers. 60. Spanish Troops Repelling an Insurgent Attack on a Convent. 61. A Spanish Festival in Manila. 62. Flowers of the Philippines. 63. The Battle of Manila Bay— In the Heat of the Raging Fight. 64. Group of Filipinos Who Want Independence. 65. Loading Buffaloes with Produce in Luzon. 6G. Natives Fishing from a Canal Boat. 67. Scene Before an Execution. 68. Great Bridge at Manila. 69. Business Corner in Manila. 70. A Suburb of Manila, Showing a Buffalo Market Cart. 71. Aguinaldo and His Compatriots. 72. Senor Aguinaldo. 73. Senor Montsusgro. 74. Senor Natividah. 75. Senor Ninisgra. 76. Senor Rins. 77. Senor Belavinino. 78. Senor Covinbing. 79. Senor Mascordo. 80. Senor Arbacho. 81. Senor Pilar. ILLUSTRATIONS. 27 82. Senor Viola. 83. Senor Francisco. 84. Senor Llansoo. 85. Filipina Preparing for a Siesta. 86. Cathedral of Manila After Earthquake. 87. Spanish Reinforcements Crossing Bridge Over Pasig River. 88. A Beheaded Spaniard — Sign of the Order of Katipunan. 89. Archbishop of Manila. His Protograph and Autograph Presented to Mr. Halsted, the Author. 90. The Sultan of Jolo in Mindanao. 91. Photograph and Autograph of Aguinaldo, as Presented by Him to Mr. Halsted, the Author. 92. A Spanish Dude — An Officer at Manila. 93. Government Building in Pampanga. 94. Church at Cavite. 95. Masacue — Town in Cavite. 96. Natives Taking Refreshments. 97. Spanish Soldiers Crossing Bridge Over Pasig River. 98. Official Map of the Isle of Luzon, Prepared by War Department 99. The President and His Cabinet. 100. President McKinley. 101. Secretary of State Hay. 102. Secretary of the Treasury Gage. 103. Secretary of War Alger. 104. Secretary of the Navy Long. 105. Attorney General Griggs. 106. Postmaster General Smith. 107. Secretary of the Interior Bliss. 108. Secretary of Agriculture Wilson. 109. Naval Heroes of Santiago. 110. Admiral Sampson. 111. Admiral Schley. 112. Captain Chadwick, of the New York. 113. Captain Cooke, of the Brooklyn. 114. Captain Clarke, of the Oregon. 115. Captain Evans, of the Iowa. 116. Captain Higginson, of the Massachusetts. 117. Captain Philip, of the Texas. 118. Commander Wainwright, of the Gloucester. 119. Lieutenant R. P. Hobson. 120. Military Heroes of Santiago and Porto Rico» 121. Major-General Miles. 122. Major-General Shaffer. 28 ILLUSTEATIONS. 123. Major-General Wheeler. 124:. Major-General Brooke. 1.25. Brigadier-General Wood. 126. Colonel Eoosevelt. 127. Brigadier-General E. V. Greene. 128. Admiral Dewey, the Hero of Manila. 129. Captain Sigsbee, Commander of the Ill-fated Maine. 130. Shipping in Manila Harbor. I ATTOCnCY dm. GciOCj5 A THE PRESIDENT AND HIS CABINET. (Photo of Long Copyrighted 1897 by Purely of Boston.) (Photo of McKinley Copyrighted by Elmer Chickeriug,) (Photo of Smith Copyrighted by Rockwood.) THE HERO OF MANILA. CHAPTER I. ADMIRAL DEWEY OX HIS FLAGSHIP. A Stormy Day on Manila Bay — Call on Admiral Dewey — The Man in AVliite — He Sticks to His Ship — How He Surprised Spaniards — Every Man Did His Duty on May-Day — How Dewey Looks and Talks — What He Said About War with Germany in Five Minutes — Feeds His Men on "Delicious" Fresh Meat from Australia — Photography Unjust to Him. Steaming across Manila Bay from Cavite to the city on an energetic ferry-boat, scanning the wrecks of the Spanish fleet still visible where the fated ships went down, one of them bearing on a strip of canvas the legible words "Remember the ^Maine/ " the talk being of Dewey's great May-day, we were passing the famous flag-ship of the squadron that was ordered to destroy another squadron, and did it, incidentally gathering in hand the keys of an empire in the Indies for America, because the American victor was an extraordinary man, who saw the immensity of the opportunity and improved it to the utmost, some one said: "There is the Admiral now, on the quarter-deck under the awning — the man in white, sitting alone!" The American Consul at Manila was aboard the ferry-boat, and said to the ^*-^ £^m^ ARCHBISHOP OF MANILA, HIS PHOTOGRAPH, AND AUTOGRAPH, AS PRESENTED '^*'^" TO MR. HALHTEAD. INTERVIEW WITH GEN. AGUINALDO. 53 portation or execution. In few words, if they did not go away they would be killed. When close and urgent inquiry was made, the native priests were not included in the application of this rule. The Spanish priests were particularly singled out for vengeance, and with them such others as had been "false to the people" and treach- erous in their relations to political affairs. The number to be exiled or executed was stated at 3,000. The priests are pan- icky about this feeling of the natives, as is in evidence in their solicitude to get away. They at least have no hope of security if the Spaniards should regain the mastery of the islands. Two hundred and fifty of them in vain sought to get passage to Hong- kong in one boat. I was informed on authority that was unquestionable that the eviction or extermination of the Spanish priests was one of the inevitable results of Filipine independence — the first thing to be done. It was with three objects in view that I had an interview with General Aguin- aldo: (1) To ascertain exactly as possible his feeling and policy toward the United States and its assertion of military authority; (2) to inquire about his position touching the priests, (3) and to urge him to be at pains to be represented not only at Washington, but at Paris. As regards the latter point, it was clear that the people of the Pliilippines, whatever they might be, ought to be represented before the Paris conference. N"o matter what their case was, it should be personally presented, even if the representatives were witnesses against rather than for themselves. In the interest of fair, play and the general truth the Philippine population should put in an appearance at the seat of the government of the United States for the informa- tion of the President, and at the scene of the conference to testify; and I was sure it would appear in all cases that they were at least better capable of governing themselves than the Spaniards to govern them. There could be no form of gov- ernment quite so bad as that of the fatal colonial system of Spain, as illustrated in the Philippines and in the Americas. General Aguinaldo was neither remote nor inaccessible. His headquarters were in an Indian village, just across the ba}^, named Bacoor, and in less than an hour a swift steam launch carried Major Bell, of the bureau of informa- tion, a gallant and most industrious and energetic of&cer, and myself, to water so shal- low that we had to call canoes to land in front of a church that before the days of Dewey was riddled by the fire of Spanish warships because occupied by insurgents. The walls and roof showed many perforations. The houses of the village were of bamboo, and there were many stands along the hot and dusty street on which fruit was displayed for sale. 54 INTERVIEW WITH GEN. AGUINALDO. The Generars house was about as solid a structure as earthquakes permit, its roof of red tile instead of the usual straw. His rooms were in the second story, reached by a broad stairway, at the top of which was a landing of liberal dimensions and an ante-room. The General was announced at home and engaged in writing a letter to General Merritt — then his rather regular Jiterary exercise. There were a dozen insurgent soldiers at the door, and as many more at the foot and head of the stairs, with several officers, all in military costume, the privates carrying Spanish Mausers and the officers wearing swords. We were admitted to an inner room, with a window opening on the street, and told the General would see us directly. Meanwhile well-dressed ladies of his family passed through the audience room from the General's office to the living rooms, giving a pleasant picture of domesticity. The door from the study opened and a very slender and short young man entered with a preoccupied look that quickly became curious. An attendant said in a low voice, "General Aguinaldo." He was unexpectedly small — could weigh but little over 100 pounds — dressed in pure white, and his modesty of bearing would have be- come a maiden. The first feeling was a sort of faint compassion that one with such small physical resources should have to bear the weighty responsibilities resting upon him. Major Bell had often met him, and introduced me. The General was gratified that I had called, and waited for the declaration of my business. He had been informed of my occupation; the fact that I had recently been in Wash- ington and expected soon to be there again; was from Ohio, the President's state, a friend of his, and had written a book on Cuba, a task which gave me, as I had visited the Island of Cuba during the war, an acquaintance with the Spanish system of governing colonies. The interpreter was a man shorter than the General, but not quite so slight. His hair was intensely black and he wore glasses. He is an accomplished linguist, speaks English with facility and is acknowledged by the priests to be the equal of any of ,them in reading and speaking Latin. It is to be remarked that while Aguinaldo is not a man of high education he has as associates in his labors for Philippine independence a considerable number of scholarly men. It is related that in a recent discussion between a priest and an insurgent, the latter stated as a ground of rebellion that the Spaniards did nothing for the education of the people, and was asked, "Where did you get your education?" He had been taught by the Jesuits. My first point in talking with Aguinaldo was that the people of the Philippines ought to be strongly represented in Paris, and of the reasons briefly presented, the foremost was that they sought independence, and should be heard before the com- INTEEVIEW WITH GEK AGUIXALDO. 55 mission by which their fate would be declared for the present, so far as it could be, by a tribunal whose work was subject to revision. The general's information was that the Paris conference would be opened September 15, an error of a fortnight, and his impression was that the terms regarding the Philippines would be speedily settled, so that there could not be time to send to Paris, but there had been a determination reached to have a man in Washington. It is to be taken into account that this interview was before anything had been made known as to the mission which General Merritt undertook, and that in a few days he set forth to perform, and that the terms of the protocol had not been entirely published in Manila. I told the general it was not possible that the Phil- ippine problem could speedily be solved, and made known to him that the transport China, which holds the record of quick passage on the Pacific, was to sail for San Francisco in three days, and he would do well to have his men for Washington and Paris go on her if permission could be obtained, as there was no doubt it could, and I mentioned the time required to reach Washington and Paris— that one could be on a trans-Atlantic steamer in New York six hours after leaving Washington, that the Philippine commissioners going to Paris should make it a point to see the President on the way, and the whole matter one of urgency, but it was certainly not too late to act. The General said it had been thought a representative of the islands and of the cause of the people should go to Washington, but the man was in Hongkong He could, however, be telegraphed, so that he could catch the China at Nagasaka, Japan, where she would have to stop two days to take coal. The Washington commissioner might go to Paris, but instructions could not reach him before he left Hongkong, as it would not be desirable to telegraph them. Upon this I stated if it suited his con- venience and he would send instructions by me, I was going on the China, and would charge myself with the special confidential care of his dispatches and deliver them to the commissioner at the coaling station, when he should join the ship; and if it was the desire of the General to have it done I would telegraph the President that Phil- ippine commissioners were on the way. These suggestions were received as if they were agreeable, and esteemed of value. The conversation turned at this point to the main question of the future govern- ment of the Philippines, and I inquired what would be satisfactory to the General, and got, of course, the answer, ^Thilippine independence." But I said after the United States had sent a fleet and destroyed the Spanish fleet and an army in full possession of Manila she was a power that could not be ignored; and what would be thought of her assuming the prerogative of Protector? She could not escape re- 56 INTEEVIEW WITH GEN. AGUINALDO. sponsibility. His views as to the exact line of demarkation or distinction between the rights of the United States and those of the people of the islands should be perfectly clear, for otherwise there would be confusion and possibly contention in greater matters than now caused friction. I endeavored to indicate the idea that there might be an adjustment on the hne that the people of the Philippines could manage their local matters in their own way, leaving to the IJnited States imperial affairs, the things international and all that affected them, the Eilipinos looking to the administration of localities. I had asked questions and stated propositions as if it were the universal consent that General Aguinaldo was the dictator for his people and had the executive word ta say; but when it came to drawing the line lines of his relations with the United States as the embodiment of a revolutionary movement, he became shy and referred to those who had to be consulted. ^ His words were equivalent to saying his counselors must, in all matters of moment, be introduced. It came to the same thing at last as to his commissioner or commissioners to Washington or Paris, one or both, and he also asserted the pur- pose of having the congress elected assemble at a railroad town — Moroles, about fifty miles north of Manila — a movement it is understood that is under the guidance of others than the General, the bottom fact being that if there should be a Plrilippine Eepublic Aguinaldo's place, in the judgment of many who are for it, would be not that of chief magistrate, but the head of the army. There are others and many of them of the opinion that he is not a qualified soldier. The congress assembled at Moroles, and has made slow progress. It may as well be remembered, however, that the distinctions of civil and military power have been always hard to observe, in Central and South American states, whose early Spanish education has been outgrown gradually, and with halting and bloody steps. General Aguinaldo, then engaged in evolving a letter to General Mer- ritt, has since issued proclamations that yield no share to the United States in the native government of the islands. But there are two things definitely known, as if decreed in official papers, and probably more so; that the Filipinos of in- fluential intelligence would be satisfied with the direction of local affairs and gladly accept the protectorate of the United States on the terms which the people of the United States may desire and dictate. The greater matter is that whenever it is the fixed pohcy of the United States tc accept the full responsibihty of ruling the Philippines, neither "Aguinaldo noi any other man of the islands would have the ability to molest the steady, peaceable, beneficent development of the potentiahty of our system of justice to the people, and INTEKVIEW WITH GEN. AGUmALDO. 57 the preservation by and throiigli the popular will of the union of liberty under the law^ and order maintained peaceably or forcibly according to needs. In continuation of his explanation that he had to refer matters to others called his counselors, disclaiming the presumption in my questions of his personal responsi- bility for the conduct of the native insurrection, General Aguinaldo said with the greatest deliberation and the softest emphasis of any of his sayings, that the insurgents were already suspicious of him as one who was too close a friend of the Americans, and yielded too much to them, and that there was danger this feeling might grow and make way with his abihty to do all that he would like in the way of keeping the peace. There were, he said, inquiries to the effect: What had the insurgents got for what they had done in the capture of Manila? Were they not treated by the Americans with indifference? Major Bell interposed to say that the Americans were in the Philippines not as politicians, but as soldiers, and had the duty of preserving order by military oc- cupation, and it was not possible there could be maintained a double military au- thority — two generals of equal powers in one city under martial law. There must be one master and no discussion. The United States could take no secondary atti- tude or position — would treat the insurgents with great consideration, but they of necessity were exclusively responsible for the carrying out of the provisions of the capitulation. This was exactly to the point, and the interpreter cut his rendering of it, using but few words, and they did not cheer up the General and those about him. Evi- dently they want to know when and where they realize. It had been noticeable that the greater importance Aguinaldo attaches to what he is saying the lower his voice and the more certainly he speaks in a half whisper with parted lips, show- in teeth' and tongue; and he has a surprising faculty of talking with the tip of his tongue, extended a very little beyond his hps. There was somethmg so reserved as to be furtive about his mouth, but his eyes were keen, straight and steady, showing deci- sion, but guarding what he regarded the niceties of statement. However, his mean- ing that there were insurgents who were finding fault with him was not so much indicative of a rugged issue as a confession of impending inabilities. He had nothing to say in response to Major Bell's explicit remark about the one- man and one-country military power, but the action of the insurgents in removing their headquarters— or their capital, as they call it— to a point forty miles from Manila, proves that they have come to an understanding that the soldiers of the United States are not in tiie Phihppines for their health entirely, or purely in the interest of universal benevolence. The Filipinos must know, too, tliat they could 58 INTEEYIEW WITH GEN. AGUINALDO. never themselves have captured Manila. It is not inapt to say that the real center of the rebellion against Spain is, as it has been for years, at Hongkong. I reserved what seemed the most interesting question of the interview with the Philippine leader to the last. It was whether a condition of pacification was the expulsion of the Catholic priests as a class. This was presented with reference to the threats that had been made in my hearing that the priests must go or die, for they were the breeders of all trouble. Must all of them be removed in some way or another? If not, where would the line be drawn? The lips of the Gen- eral were parted and his voice quite low and gentle, the tongue to a re- markable degree doing the talking, as he replied, plainly picking word? cautiously and measuring them. The able and acute interpreter dealt them out rapidly, and his rendering gave token that the Filipinos have already had lessons in diplomacy — even in the Spanish style of polite prevarication — or, if that may be a shade too strong, let us say elusive reservation — the use of language that is more shady than silence, the framing of phrases that may be interpreted so as not to close but to continue discussion and leave wide fields for controversy. The General did not refer to his counselors, or the congress that is in the background and advertised as if it were a new force. The words of the interpreter for him were: "The General says the priests to whom objection is made, and with whom we have a mortal quarrel, are not our own priests, but the Spaniards' and those of the orders. We respect the Catholic church. We respect our own priests, and, if they are friends of our country, will protect them. Our war is not upon the Catholic church, but upon the friars, who have been the most cruel enemies. We cannot have them here. They must go away. Let them go to Spain. We are willing that they may go to their own country. We do not want them. There is no peace until they go.'' I said my information was that the objectionable Orders expressly proscribed by the insurgents were the Dominicans, Augustines, Franciscans and Eecollects, but that the Jesuits were not included. This was fully recited to the General, and with his eyes closing and his mouth whispering close to the interpreter's cheek he gave his answer, and it was quickly rendered: '^The Jesuits, too, must go. They also are our enemies. We do not want them. They betray. They can go to Spain. They may be wanted there, not here; but not here, not here." The question whether the friars must make choice between departure and death was not met directly, but with repetitions — that they might be at home in Spain, but INTEEVIEW WITH GEN. AGUINALDO. 59 could not be a part of the independent Philippines; and, significantly, they should be willing to go when wanted, and would be. Two Catholic priests — Americans, not Spaniards — were at this moment waiting in the ante room, to ask permission foi the priests Aguinaldo has in prison to go back to Spain, and the General could not give an answer until he had consulted his council. Probably he would not dare to part with the priests, and an order from him would be disregarded. They have many chances of martyrdom, and some of them have already suffered mutilation. Something had been said about my cabling the President as to the Filipinos' determination to send a representative to Paris, and I had tendered my good offices in bearing instructions to a commissioner from Hongkong to meet the China at Nagasaki, the Japanese railway station, where the American transports coal for their long voyage across the Pacific. But that matter had been left in the air. General Aguinaldo had said he would be obliged if I would telegraph the President, and I thought if the decision was that there was to be a Philippine representative hurried to Paris, it was something the President would be glad to know. I was aware there might be a difficulty in getting permission for a special messenger to go on the China to Japan to meet the commissioners going from Hongkong, and I would be willing to make the connection, as I had offered the suggestion. But it was necessary to be absolutely certain of General Aguinaldo's decision before I could cable the President; therefore, as I was, of course, in an official sense wholly irresponsible, I could com- municate with him without an abrasion of military or other etiquette. It was the more needful, as it would be a personal proceeding, that I should be sure of the facts. Therefore I asked the General, whose time I had occupied more than an hour, whether he authorized me to telegraph the President that a commission was going to Paris, and desired me to render any aid in conveying information. The General was troubled about the word "authorized," and instead of saying so concluded that I must have a deep and possibly dark design and so he could not give me the trouble to cable. The assurance that it would not be troublesome did not remove the disquiet. I could not be troubled, either, as a bearer of dispatches. The General could not authorize a telegram without consulting. In truth, the General had not made up his mind to be represented in Paris, holding that it would be sufficient to have an envoy extraordinary in Washington. Others, without full consideration, in my opinion, concur in this view. I can im- agine several situations at Paris in which a representative Filipino would be of service to the United States, simply by standing for the existence of a state of facts in the disputed islands. I dropped the matter of being a mediator, having planted the Paris idea in the mind of the Philippine leader, who is of the persuasion that he is 60 INTERVIEW WITH GEN. AGUINALDO. the dictator of his countrymen, for the sake of his countr}^, nntil he wishes to be evasive, and then he must consult others who share the burdens of authority, and told him when taking my leave I would like to possess a photograph with his autograph and the Philippine flag. In a few minutes the articles were in my hands, and passing out, there were the American priests in the ante-room, the next callers to enter the General's apartment. Their business was to urge him to permit the Catholic priests held as prisoners by the insurgents — more than 100, perhaps nearly 200 in number — to go home. When the news came that General Merritt had been ordered to Paris, and would pass through the Eed sea en route, taking the China to Hongkong to catch a penin- sular and oriental steamer, I telegrahed the fact to General Aguinaldo over our mili- tary wires and his special wire, and his commissioner, duly advised, became, with General Merritt's aid, at Hongkong a passenger on the China. He is well known to the world as Senor Eilipe Agoncello, who visited Wash- ington City, saw the President and proceeded to Paris. CHAPTEE y.- THE PHILIPPINE MISSION. Correspoudence With Agiiinalclo About It — Notes by Senor Felipe Agoncillo — Ee- lations Between Admiral Dewey and Senor Agiiinaldo — Terms of Peace Made by Spanish Governor-General with Insurgents, December, 1897 — Law Suit Between Aguinaldo and Artacho — Aguinaldo's Proclamation of May 24, 1898. AVhen General Merritt decided to hold the China for a day to take him to Hong- kong on the way to Paris, I telegraphed Aguinaldo of the movements of the ship, and received this dispatch from the General: "War Department, United States Volunteer Signal Corps, sent from Bakoor August 29, 1898.— To Mr. Murat Halstead, Hotel Oriente, Manila: Thankful for your announcing China's departure. We are to send a person by her if possible, 'whom I recommend to you. Being much obliged for the favor. "A. G. ESCA^IILLA," "Private Secretary to General Aguinaldo.'^ On the same day the General sent the following personal letter: "Dear Sir: The bearer, Dr. G. Apacible, is the person whom was announced to you in the telegram. "I am desirous of sending him to Hongkong, if possible, by the China, recom- mending him at the same time to your care and good will. Thanking you for the favor, Fm respectfully yours, EMILIO AGUINALDO Y FAMY. . "Mr. Murat Halstead, Manila. "Bakoor, 29th August, 1898.'' General Aguinaldo proceeded vigorously to make use of his knowledge that the China would go to Hongkong for General Merritt and sent his secretary and others to me at the Hotel Oriente, but they arrived after I had left the house. They came to the China and General Merritt had not arrived and did not appear until within a few minutes of the start. Then the deputation from the insurgent chieftain had an interview with him, asking that two of their number should go to Hongkong on the China to express fully the views of the insurgent government to to the commissioner, Don Felipe Agoncillo, chosen to represent the Filipinos at Washington and Paris and to ask that he be allowed to go to the United States on the China. When the committee saw General Merritt he was taking leave of Admiral 61 62 THE PHILIPPIXE MISSION. Dewey, and the General, who had not heard of this movement until that moment — iiie question being entirely new — invited the opinion of the Admiral, who said there was "certainly no objection," and on the contrary, it would be very well to permit the passage of the deputation to Hongkong and of the commissioner appointed from that city to Washington. General Merritt at once in half a dozen words gave the order, and the journey began. General Greene, who reads and translates Spanish with facility and whose Span- ish speech is plain, treated with marked courtesy the Filipino committee to Hong- kong and thence the commissioner and his secretary from Hongkong to San Fran- cisco, on the way to Washington and Paris. General Greene, while according dis- tinction to the representatives of the insurgents, stated to them that his attentions were personal and he could not warrant them official recognition at Washington or anything more than such politeness as gentlemen receive from each other. The commissioner was Don Felipe Agoncillo, and his secretary, Sixto Lopez Saturday, September 24, the Salt Lake nev»^spapers contained stories to the cliect that the Germans had entered into an alliance offensive and defensive with the Aguinaldo government and Avould furnish equipments for an army of 150,000 men. We Avere on the Dnion Pacific Railroad at the time, and I called the attention of Don Felipe Agoncillo to this remarkable intelligence and asked him what he thought of it. He said emphatically that it was "Nothing," "No true," "Nothing at all," and he laughed at the comic idea. There was also in the Salt Lake newspapers a statement that the Aguinaldo 'government' had sent to President McKinley a letter strongly expressing good-will and gratitude. There did not seem to be much news in this for Don Felipe, but it gave him much pleasure, and he, not perhaps diplomatically but enthusiastically, pronounced it good. WHAT AGONCILLO APPROVED. The dispatch marked with his approbation by the Philippine commissioner Ava? the following from Washington, under date of September 23: "The President doubtless would be glad to hear any views these FilijDinos might care to set forth, being fresh from the islands and thoroughly acquainted with the wishes of the insurgents. But it would be plainly impolitic and inconsistent for the President, at this date and pending the conclusion of the peace confer- ence at Paris, to allow it to be understood, by according a formal reception to the delegates, that he had thereby recognized the Philippine government as an inde- pendent nationahty. His attitude toward the Filipinos would be similar to that assumed by him toward the Cubans. As the Filipinos have repeatedly, by public declaration, sought to convey the impression that the United States representatives THE PHILIPPINE MISSIO]S\ 63 in Manila have at some time during the progress of the war recognized Agiiinaldo as an independent ally, and entered into formal co-operation with him, it may be stated that the government at Washington is unaware that any such thing has happened. Admiral Dewey, who was in command of all the United States forces during the most critical period, expressly cabled the Secretary of the Xavy that he had entered into no formal agreement with Aguinaldo. If General Otis followed his instructions, and of that there can be no doubt, he also refrained from entering into any entangling agreements. As for Consul-General AYildman, any under- taking he may" have assumed with Aguinaldo must have been upon his own per- sonal and individual responsibility, and would be without formal standing, inas- much as he has not the express authorization from the State Department abso- lutely requisite to negotiations in such cases. Therefore, as the case now stands, the peace commissioners are free to deal with the Philippine problem at Paris absolutely without restraint beyond that which might be supposed to rise from a sense of moral obligation to avoid committing the Filipinos again into the hands of their late rulers." Senor Agoncillo, the commissioner of the Philippine insurgents at Paris, made, in conversations on the steamer China, when crossing the Pacific Ocean from Nagasaka to San Francisco, this statement in vindication of Aguinaldo, and it is the most complete, authoritative and careful that exists of the relations between Admiral Dewey and the insurgent leader: BEIEF NOTES BY SEXOE AGONCILLO. "On the same day that Admiral Dewey arrived at Hongkong Senor Aguinaldo was in Singapore, whither he had gone from Hongkong, and Mr. Pratt, L^nited States Consul-General, under instructions from the said Admiral, held a confer- ence with him, in which it was agreed that Senor Aguinaldo and other revolutionary chiefs in co-operation with the American squadron should return to take up arms against the Spanish government of the Philippines, the sole and most laudable desire of the Washington government being to concede to the Philippine people absolute independence as soon as the victory against the Spanish arms should be obtained. "By virtue of this argument Senor Aguinaldo proceeded by the first steamer to Hongkong for the express purpose of embarking on the Olympia and going to Manila; but this intention of his Avas not realized, because the American squadron left Hongkong the day previous to his arrival, Admiral Dewey having received from his government an order to proceed immediately to Manila. This is what Mr. Wildman, United States Consul-General in Hongkong, said to Senor Aguinaldo in the interview which took place between them. A few days after the Spanish 64 THE PHILIPPIXE MISSION. squadron had been totally destro3'ed in the Bay of Manila by the American squad- ron, the latter obtaining a most glorious triumph, which deserved the fullest con- gratulations and praise of the Philippine public, the McCullough arrived at Hongkong and her commander said to Senor Aguinaldo that Admiral Dewey needed him (le necesitaba) in Manila and that he brought an order to take him on board said transport, as well as other revolutionary chiefs whose number should be determined by Senor Aguinaldo, and, in fact, he and seventeen chiefs went to Cavite on the McCullough. ''Senor Aguinaldo began his campaign against the Spaniards the very day that he received the 1,902 Mauser guns and 200,000 cartridgegs, which came from Hong- kong. The first victory which he obtained from the Spaniards was the surrender or capitulation of the Spanish General, Senor Pena, who was the Military Governor of Cavite, had his headquarters in the town of San Francisco de Malal^on, and his force was composed of 1,500 soldiers, including volunteers. ''The revolutionary army in six days' operations succeeded in getting possession of the Spanish detachments stationed in the villages of Bakoor, Imus, Benakayan, Noveleta, Santa Cruz de Malabon, Eosario and Cavite Yiejo. "On June 9 last the whole province of Cavite was under the control of the pro- visional revolutionary government, including many Spanish prisoners and friars, 7,000 guns, great quantities of ammunition and some cannon. "At the same time that the province of Cavite was being conquered other revolu- tionary chiefs were carrjdng on campaigns in the Batangas, Laguna, Tayabas, Nueva Eeiza, Bulcan, Batangas Pampanga and Morong, which were under control of the rev- olutionary army by June 12, and such progress was made by the Philippine revolution in the few days of campaign against the Spaniards that by August 3 last it held under conquest fifteen important provinces of the island of Luzon; these provinces are being governed by laws emanating from the provisional revolutionary government and in all of them perfect order and complete tranquility reign. "It is to be noted that the Spanish government has sent to Senor Aguinaldo various emissaries, who invited him to make common cause with Spain against the United States, promising him that the government of the Spanish nation would con- cede to him anything he might ask for the Philippine |)eople. But Senor Aguinaldo has invariably replied to those emissaries that it was too late and that he could not consider any proposition from the Spanish government, however beneficial it might be to the Philippines, because he had already pledged his word of honor in favor of certain representatives of the government at Washington. THE PHILIPPINE MISSION. 65 "In view of this ^Dositiye resolution of Senor Aguinaldo tliere began fortliwith tlie intrigues of the SjJanish enemy directed against the life of Senor Aguinaldo. PEACE CONVENTION OF DECEMBER, 1896. ''Senor Aguinaldo^ in liis own name and in that of the other chiefs and subor- dinates, obligated himself to lay down their arms, which, according to an inventory, were to be turned over to the Spanish government, thus terminating the revolution. His Excellency the Governor and Captain-General, Don Fernando Primo de Rivera, as the representative of His Majesty's government in the Philippines, obligated himself on his side (1) to grant a general amnesty to all those under charges or sentenced for the crime of rebellion and sedition a^d other crimes of that category: (2) to introduce into the Philippines all reforms necessary for correcting in an effec- tive and absolute manner the evils which for so many years had oppressed the countr}-, in political and administrative affairs; and (3) an indemnity of $800,000, payable at the following dates: A letter of credit of the Spanish Filipino Bank for $400,000 against the Hongkong and Shanghai Bank in Hongkong was to be delivered to Senor Aguinaldo on the same day that he should leave Biak-va-Bato, where he had estab- lished his headquarters, and should embark on the steamer furnished by the Spanish government (this letter of credit was in point of fact delivered); $200,000 was to be paid to the said Senor Aguinaldo as soon as the revolutionary general, Senor Ricarte, should receive his telegram ordering him to give up his arms, with an inventory thereof, to the commissioner designated by his excellency the Governor and Captain- General, Don Fernando Primo de Rivera; and the remaining $200,000 should be due and payable when the peace should be a fact, and it should be understood that peace was a fact when the Te Deum should be sung by order of his excellency the Governor and Captain-General of the Philippines. ''Senor Aguinaldo complied in every respect, so far as he was concerned, with the peace agreement. But the Spanish government did not observe a similar conduct, and this has been deplored and still is deeply deplored by the Philippine people. The general amnesty which was promised has remained completely a dead letter. Many Filipinos are still to be found in Fernando Po and in various military prisons in Spain suffering the grievous consequences of the punishment inflicted upon them unjustly and the inclemencies , of the climate to which they are not accustomed. Some of these unfortunates, who succeeded in getting out of those prisons and that exile, are hving in beggary in Spain, without the government furnishing them the necessary means to enable them to return to the Philippines. "In vain has the Philippine pubhc waited for the reforms also promised. After the celebration of the compact of June, and the disposition of the arms of the revolu- 6t) THE PHILIPPINE MISSION. tionists the Governor-General again began to inflict on the defenseless natives of the country arbitrary arrest and execution without judicial proceedings solely on the ground that they were merely suspected of being secessionists; proceedings which indisputably do not conform to the law and Christian sentiments. "In the matter of reforms the religious orders again began to obtain from the Spanish government their former and absolute power. Thus Spain pays so dearly for her fatal errors in her own destiny! "In exchange for the loftiness of mind with which Senor Aguinaldo has rigidly carried out the terms of the peace agreement, General Primo de Eivera had the C3'nicism to state in the congress of his nation that he had promised no reform to Senor Aguinaldo and his army, but that he had only given them a piece of bread in order that they might be able to maintain themselves abroad. This was re- echoed in the foreign press, and Senor Aguinaldo was accused in the Spanish press of having allowed himself to be bought with a handful of gold, selling out his country at the same time. There were published, moreover, in those Spanish periodicals car- icatures of Senor Aguinaldo which profoundly wounded his honor and his patriotism. "Senor Aguinaldo and the other revolutionists who reside in Hongkong agreed not to take out one cent of the $400,000 deposited in the chartered bank and the Hongkong and Shanghai Bank, the only amount which Senor Aguinaldo received from the Spanish government on account of the stipulated indemnity, but to use it for arms in order to carry on another revolution in the Philippines, in case the Span- ish government should fail to carry out the peace agreement, at least in so far as it refers to general amnesty and reforms. All the above named revolutionists, Senor Aguinaldo setting the example, resolved to deny themselves every kind of comfort during their stay in Hongkong, living in the most modest style, for the purpose of preventing a reduction by one single cent of the above named sum of $400,000, which they set aside exclusively for the benefit of their country. LAW SUIT BETWEEN DON J. AETACHO AND DON E. AGUINALDO. "Senor Artacho, induced by the father solicitor of the Dominicans and the Con- sul-General of Spain, filed in the courts of that colony a summons against Don E. Aguinaldo, asking for a division of the above-mentioned $400,000 between those revolutionary chiefs who resided in Hongkong. Artacho and three others, who joined the revolution in its last days and rendered little service to it, were the only ones who desired a division of this money; whereas forty-seven revolutionaries, many of whom were most distinguished chiefs, were opposed to it, supporting the resolu- tion which Senor Aguinaldo had previously taken in regard to it. Senor Aguinaldo, in order to avoid all scandal, did everything possible to avoid appearing in court THE PHILIPPINE MISSION. 67 answering the summons of Artacho, who, realizing that his conduct had made himself hated by all Filipinos, agreed in a friendly arrangement to withdraw his suit, receiv- ing in exchange $5,000; in this way were frustrated the intrigues of the solicitor of tlie Dominican order and of the Spanish Consul, who endeavored at any cost to destroy the $400,000 by dividing it up. ' Artacho is now on trial before a judicial court on charges preferred by various revolutionists for offenses which can be proved; he has no influence in the revolu- tionary party." PEOCLAMATION OF GENEEAL AGUINALDO. MAY 24TH, 1898. Filipinos: The Great Nation North America, cradle of true liberty and friendly on that account to the liberty of our people, oppressed and subjugated by the tyranny and despotism of those who have governed us, has come to manifest even here a pro- tection W'hich is decisive, as well as disinterested, towards us considering us endowed with sufficient civilization to govern by ourselves this our unhappy land. To main- tain this so lofty idea, which we deserve from the now very powerful Nation North America, it is our duty to detest all those acts which belie such an idea, as pillage, robbery and every class of injury to persons as well as to things. With a view to avoiding international conflicts during the period of our campaign, I order as follows: Article I. The lives and property of all foreigners, including Chinese and all Spaniards who either directly or indirectly have joined in taking arms against us are to be respected. Article II. The lives and property of those who lay down their arms are also to be respected. Article III. Also are to be respected all sanitary establishments and ambulances, and likewise the persons and things which may be found either in one or the other, including the assistants in this service, unless they show hostility. Article IV. Those who disobey what is prescribed in the preceding articles will be tried by summary court and put to death, if such disobedience shall cause assas- sination, fire, robbery and violation. Given at Cavite, the 24th of May, 1898. EMILIO AGUINALDO. It is to be remarked of this semi-official statement that Admiral Dewey did not make any promises he could not fulfill to Aguinaldo; did not assume to speak for the President or the army of the United States, but gave guns and ammunition to the insurgents, who aided him in maintaining a foothold on the shore. The insur- 68 THE PHILIPPINE MISSI0:N". gents did not win Dewey's victory, but aided to improve it. Without the aid of the American army Manila might have been destroyed, but could not have been captured intact. General Merritt settled the question of the status of the insurgent army wdth respect to the capture of Manila in a summary and sound way when he said there could be but one military authority in a military government, and as the command- ing general of the Philippine expedition of the United States, he was that authority. CHAPTEE VL THE PROCLAMATIONS OF GENERAL AGITINALDO. June 16tli, 1898, Establishing Dictatorial Government—June 20tli, 1898, Instruc- tions for Elections — June 23d, 1898, Establishing Revolutionary Government —June 23d, 1898, Message to Foreign Powers— June 27th, 1898, Instruc- tions Concerning Details — July 23d, 1898, Letter From Senor Aguinaldo to General Anderson — August 1st, 1898, Resolutions of Revolutionary Chiefs Asking for Recognition — August 6th, 1898, Message to Foreign Powers Ask- ing Recognition. One of the most critical questions in the situation of the Philippines is the precise position of the leader of the insurgents. General Aguinaldo. His utterances in his official character of leader of the natives who for years have been in rebellion against Spain, have been but fragmentary, as they have come before the people. We give for the public information the consecutive series of proclamations. No. 1. To the Philippine Public: Circumstances have providentially placed me in a position for which I can not fail to recognize that I am not properly qualified, but since I can not violate the laws of Providence nor decline the obligations which honor and patriotism impose upon me, I now salute you. Oh, My Beloved People! I have proclaimed in the face of the whole world that the aspiration of my whole life, the final object of all my efforts and strength is nothing else but your in- dependence, for I am firmly convinced that that constitutes your constant desire and that independence signifies for us redemption tvom. slavery and tyranny, regaining our liberty and. entrance into the concert of civilized nations. I understand on the other hand that the first duty of every government is to interpret faithfully popular aspirations. With this motive, although the abnormal circumstances of the war have compelled me to institute this Dictatorial Govern- ment which assumes full powers, both civil and military, my constant desire is to surround myself with the most distinguished persons of each Province, those who by their conduct, deserve the confidence of their province to the end that the true necessities of each being known by them, measures may be adopted to meet these necessities and apply the remedies in accordance with the desires of all. I understand moreover the urgent necessity of establishing in each town a solid and robust organization, the strongest bulwark of pubUc security and the sole 69 70 PKOCLAMATIONS OF GENERAL AGUINALDO. means of securing that union and discipline which are indispensable for the estab- lishment of the Eepublic, that is Government of the people for the people, and ward- ing off the international conflicts which may arise. Following out the foregoing considerations I decree as follows: Article I. The inhabitants of every town where the forces of the Spanish government still remain, will decide upon the most efficacious measures to combat and destroy them, according to the resources and means at their disposal, according to prisoners of war the treatment most conformable to humanitarian sentiments and to the customs observed by civilized nations. Article II. As soon as the town is freed from Spanish domination, the inhab- itants most distinguished for high character, social position and honorable conduct both in the center of the community and in the suburbs, will come together in a large meeting in which they will proceed to elect by a majority of votes, the chief of the town and a head man for each suburb, considering as suburbs not only those hitherto known as such, but also the center of the community. All those inhabitants who fulfill the conditions above named, will have the right to take part in this meeting and to be elected, provided always that they are friendly to Philippine independence and are twenty years of age. Article III. In this meeting shall also be elected by a majority of votes, three , peoples require to have fullness of life; they need liberty and independence in order to contribute to the indefinite progress of mankind. It has struggled and will struggle, with decision and constancy, without ever turning back or retrograding before the obstacles which may arise in its path, and with unshakable faith that it will obtain justice and fulfill the laws of Providence. And neither will it be turned aside from the course it has hitherto followed by PEOCLAMATIONS OF GENERAI. AGUINALDO. 83 the unjustifiable imprisonment, tortures, assassinations, and the other vandal acts committed by the Spaniards against the persons of peaceful and defenseless Fili- pinos. The Spaniards believe themselves released from every legal obligation toward the Filipinos for the sole reason that the belligerency of the Eevolution has not been recognized, taking no account of the fact that over and above every law, whether written or prescriptive, are placed with imprescriptible characters, culture, national honor and humanity. ISTo; the Filipinos have no need ever to make use of reprisals because they seek independence with culture, liberty with unconditional respect for the law, as the organ of justice, and a name purified in the crucible of human sentiments. In virtue of the foregoing considerations the undersigned, giving voice to the unanimous aspiration of the people whom they represent, and performing the offices received from them and the duties pertaining to the powers with which they are invested, Proclaim solemnly in the face of the whole world the Independence of the Philippines; Eecognize and respect Senor Don Emilio Aguinaldo y Famy as President of the Eevolutionary Government, organized in the manner prescribed by decree of the 23d and instructions of the 27th of June last, and beg the said President that he will ask and obtain from foreign Governments the recognition of its belligerency and independence, not only because this act constitutes a duty of justice, but also because to no one is it permitted to contravene natural laws nor stifle the legitimate aspira- tion of a people for its amelioration and dignification. Given in the Province of Cavite the 1st day of August, of the year of our Lord 1898, and the first year of Philippine independence. Follow the signatures of the local Presidents of the Provinces of Cavite and many others. The undersigned. Secretary of the Interior, certifies. That the present document is a literal copy of the original, which is deposited in the Secretaryship under his charge; in proof of which he signs it, with the approval of the President of the Eevo- lutionary Government in Bacoor, the 6th day of August, 1898. El Presidcnte del G. E., EMILIO AGUINALDO. El Secretano del Interior, LEANDEO IBAEEA. 84 PEOCLAMATIONS OF GENERAL AGUINALDO. LETTER FROM SENOR AGUINALDO TO GENERAL ANDERSON. July 23d, 1898. To Brigadier-General T. M. Anderson, U. S. A., etc., etc., Cavite. In answer to the letter of your Excellency dated the 22nd of the present month, I have the honor to manifest to you the following: That even supposing that the effects existing in the storehouse of Don Antonio Osorio were subject to capture, when I established myself in the plaza (town) of Cavite, Admiral Dewey authorized me to dispose of everything that I might find in the same, including the arms which the Spanish left in the arsenal. But as he was aware that said effects belonged to the personal property (ownership) of a Filipino, who traded with them by virtue of a contribution to the Spanish Government, I would not have touched them had not the owner placed them at my disposition for the purposes of the war. I came from Hong Kong to prevent my countrymen from making common cause with the Spanish against the North Americans, pledging, before, my word to Ad- miral Dew^ey to not give place to (to allow) any internal discord because (being) a judge of their desires I had the strong conviction that I would succeed in both objects; establishing a government according to their desires. Thus it is that at the beginning I proclaimed the dictatorship, and afterwards, when some of the Provinces had already liberated themselves from Spanish domina- tion, I established a revolutionary government that to-day exists, giving it a demo- cratic and popular character, as far as the abnormal circumstances of war permitted, in order that they (the Provinces) might be justly represented and administered to their satisfaction. It is true that my government has not been acknowledged by any of the foreign powers; but we expect that the great North American nation, which struggled first for its independence and afterwards for the abolition of slavery, and is now actually struggling for the independence of Cuba, would look upon it with greater benevo- lence than any other nation. Because of this we have always acknowledged the right of preference as to our gratitude. Debtor to the generosity of the North Americans, and to the favors which we have received through Admiral Dewey, and being more desirous than any other of preventing any conflict which would have as a result foreign intervention which must be extremely prejudicial not alone to my nation, but also to that of Your Ex- cellency, I consider it my duty to advise you of the undesirability of disembark- ing North American troops in the places conquered by the Filipinos from the PEOCLAMATIOXS OF GENERAL AGUINALDO. 85 Spanish^ without previous notice to this government, because as no formal agree- ment yet exists between the two nations, the Philippine people might consider the occupation of its territories by North American troops as a violation of its rights. I comprehend that without the destruction of the Spanish squadron the Phil- ippine revolution would not have advanced so rapidly; because of this I take the liberty of indicating to Your Excellency the necessities that before disembarking troops you should communicate in writing to this government the places that are to be occupied, and also the object of the occupation, that the people may be advised in due form and (thus) prevent the commission of any transgression against friend- ship. I can answer for my people, because they have given me evident proofs of their absolute confidence in my government, but I cannot answer for that which another nation, Avhose friendship is not well guaranteed, might inspire in it (the people); and it is certain that I do this not as a menace, but as a further proof of the true and sincere friendship which I have always professed to the North American peo- ple in the complete security that it will find itself completely identified with our cause of liberty. I am, with respect, Your obedient servant, EMILIO AGUINALDO. CHAPTEE VII. INTERVIEW WITH THE ARCHBISHOP OF MANILA. • Insurgents' Deadly Hostility to Spanish Priests — The Position of the Archbishop as He Defined It — His Expression of Gratitude to the American Army — His Characterization of the Insurgents — A Work of Philippine Art — The Sin- cerity of the Archbishop's Good Words. The intense feeling by the Philippine insurgents against the Spanish priests made it seem very desirable to see the Archbishop of Manila^ and he informed two American priests that he would have pleasure in making an expression of his views to me to be placed before the people of the United States. He had been charged with extreme vindictiveness and the responsibility of demanding that the city should be defended to the last extremity, when actuall}^, in the consultation of dignitaries that took place, and the surrender of the capital was demanded by Generall Merritt and Admiral Dewey, he declared the situation hopeless and that it was a plain duty to prevent the sacrifice of life. He was overruled by the peculiar folly that has caused Spain in the course of the war to inflict heavy and avoidable losses upon herself. Indeed/the war originated in the Spanish state of mind that it was necessary to open fire and shed blood for the honor of the arms of Spain. The Spanish officers knew they could not save Manila from the hands of the Americans while the command of the sea by our fi^eet was indisputable and v,^e had unlimited reserves to draw upon to strengthen the land forces, irrespective of the swarms of insurgents pressing in the rear and eager to take vengeance for centuries of mismanagement and countless personal grievances. It was the acknowledgment of the Spanish Captain-General, when he received the peremptory summons from Merritt and Dewey to give up the cit}", that there was no place of refuge for the women and children, the sick and the wounded; and yet it was insisted that the honor of Spain required bloodshed — not much, per- haps, but enough to prove that the army of Spain was warlike. When the American army had been reinforced so as to have 8,000 men ready to take the field, General Merritt and Admiral Dewey had a conference and agreed to send the Spaniards in authority a formal notification that in forty-eight hours they would bombard and assail the defenses of the city of Manila if it were not surrendered. The Spanish reply was that the Americans could commence operations at once, but there was no place where the women and children, the wounded and the sick could go to find a 86 tiSTTERVIEW WITH THE ARCHBISHOP OF MANILA. 87 place of security. This was tantamount to a declaration that the Spaniards were sliding into a surrender^ but wanted to make a claim to the contrary. The residence of the Archbishop is within the walled city and a very sub- stantial edifice^ the stone work confined to the lower story and hardwood timber freely used in massive form instead of stone. His grace was seated at a small table in a broad hall, with a lamp and writing material before him. He is imposing as a man of importance and his greeting was cordial to kindliness. He said his acknowl edgments were personally due the Americaji people for the peace of mind he had enjoyed during the occupation of the city by the army of the United States, for its establishment of order and the justice in administration that relieved good citizens from oppression and alarm. He was glad to have Americans know his sensibility on this subject, and wanted me to convey his sentiments to the President. When asked what it was that caused the insurgents to be so ferocious against the priests and resolved on their expulsion or destruction he said the rebels were at once false, unjust and ungrateful. They had been lifted from savagery by Catholic teach- ers, who had not only been educators in the schools but teachers in the fields. The same Catholic Orders that were singled out for special punishment had planted in the islands the very industries that were sources of prosperity, and the leaders of the insurgents had been largely educated by the very men whom now they persecuted. Some of the persecutors had been in Europe and became revolutionists in the sense of promoting disorder as anarchists. It was the antagonism of the church to mur- derous anarchy that aroused the insurgents of the Philippines to become the deadly enemies of priests and church orders. It was true in Spain, as in the Philippines, that the anarchists were particularly inflamed against the church. His grace did not seem to have heard of the American anarchist, but the European revolutionist has received a large share of his attention. He produced a box of cigars, also a bottle of sherry, and chatted comfortably and humorously. There was one thing then that he had in his heart — that his anxiety for peace and appreciation of order as enjoyed under the American military govern- ment should be recorded and responsibly reported to the people of the United- States. The American priests had informed him that I was a friend of long standing of President McKinley, and he Egain enjoined that I should declare his senti- ments to the President. A beautiful work of wood carving was shown on an easel, which had a frame of hard wood, the whole, easel and frame, with elaborately wrought ornamentation, cut out of one tree. It was at once strong and graceful, simple and decorative. The picture was a gold medallion, raised on a plate of silver, an excellent likeness of his grace. It was evident that the refine- 88 INTEEVIEW WITH THE ARCHBISHOP OF MANILA. ments of ait were known to "these barbarians of the PhiHppines/' for their works testified. His grace announced that he would return my call^ and liis convenience being consulted, the time was fixed for him to appear at 11 o'clock the next day, Sunday, and he came accordingly, accompanied by three priests, the chaplain of the First California, Father Daugherty who sailed with General Merritt to Manila, and Father Boyle, the superintendent of the famous observatory founded by the Jesuits, who was a typical Irishman of a strong and humorously hearty type. Father Boyle had one of the most perfect methods of spealdng Enghsh in the Irish way that I have ever heard, and admitted that he had resided in England long enough to be born there; and this was great fun. It is not too much to say that the institution he repre- sented is illustrious. The cathedral of Manila is within the walled city and of immense proportions. It was shattered by an earthquake, and in its reconstruction wood rather than marble was used for the supporting pillars within, but no one would find out that the stately clusters of columns were not from the quarries rather than the forests, unless personally conducted to the discovery. Here 2,000 Spanish soldiers, held under the articles of capitulation, were quartered, consumed their rations and slept, munching and dozing all around the altar and pervading the whole edifice. The other great churches, five in number, in the walled city, were occupied in the same way. The Archbishop was anxious tc have the soldiers otherwise provided with shelter, and if not all of them could be restored to their ordinary uses it was most desirable, in his opinioif, the cathedral should be. It is estimated that 2,000 of the American soldiers in the expeditionary force are Catholics, and Father Daugherty was anxious to preach to them in English. During the call upon me by the Archbishop this subject was discussed, and the suggestion made that the Americans had tents in great number that they did not occupy and that would probably not be preserved by keeping them stored in that hot and trying climate. They might be pitched on the Luneta, which is beside the sea, and the town thus relieved of 13,000 men, who, herded in churches, produced unsanitary condi- tions. This seemed reasonable, and the policy of the change would have a tendency to develop an element of good-wiU not to be despised and rejected. It might be that the cathedral alone could be cleared without delay or prejudice with a pleasant effect, and if so why not? His grace was certainly diplomatic and persuasive in staring the case, and his attendants were animated with zeal that the Americans should have the credit of re-opening the cathedral for worship. It Avas true the Spanish garrison first occupied it, but if the necessity that its ample roof should INTEKVIEW WITH THE AECHBISHOP OF MANILA. 89 protect soldiers from the torrential rains had existed perhaps it had ceased to be imperative. The matter was duly presented to the military authorities, and the objection found to immediate action that the Spanish prisoners of war should not for the time be located outside the walled city. They must be held where they could be handled. Coincident with the call of the Archbishop came Captain Coudert, of the dis- tinguished family of that name in New York, and his grace was deeply interested in that young man and warmly expressed his gratification in meeting an American officer of his own faith. The Archbishop is a man of a high order of capacity, and his influence has been great. His position is a trying one, for it would be quite impossible for him to remain in Manila if the insurgents should become the masters of the situation. The claim of hostile natives that the Spanish priests have an influence in matters of state that make them a ruling class is one that they urge when expressing their resolve that the Friars must go. The Spanish policy, espe- cially in the municipal governments, has been to magnify the office of the priests in political functions. The proceedings of a meeting of the people in order to receive attention or to have legal standing must be certified by a priest. It is the Spanish priest that is wanted in matters of moment, and the laws make his pres- ence indispensable. The Spanish priest^ are, therefore, identified in the public mind with all the details of misgovernment. The civilized Filipinos profess Christianity and faith in the native priests, carefully asserting the distinction. In his conversation with me. General Aguinaldo repeatedly referred to the necessity of consulting his advisers, and said he had to be careful not to offend many of his followers, who thought he had gone very far in his friendship for the United States. He gave emphasis to the assertion that they were "suspicious'' of him on that account. It was my judgment at first that the General, in stopping short when a question was dif- ficult and referring to the Council he had to consult, was showing a capacity for finesse, that he really had the power to do or to undo, though he has not a personal appearance of possible leadership. Now this, even, has been modified. His Council seems to be the real center of power. When I was talking with Aguinaldo there were two American priests waiting to propose the de]5ortation of his prisoners who were priests, and he had to refer that question. The Council has decided to keep the priests in confinement, and it is remarked that the General desired to give up his prisoners and was false in saying he favored sending them to Spain. There are misapprehensions in this association. He has no doubt thought well of holding fast his most important hostages. If he personally desired to release the priests, he probably would not venture to do it. He is not so silly as to believe in his own 90 INTEEVIEW WITH THE ARCHBISHOP OF MANILA. inviolability by bullets^ and digestion of poisons; and those who are such savages as to confide in these superstitions are not unlikely to try experiments just to strengthen their faith. The potentiality of Aguinaldo as a personage is not so great as has been imagined^ and if he attempts a rally against the American flag he will be found full of weakness. The Archbishop, I was told, had much pleasure in meeting an American he was assured would attempt to be entirely just, and present him according to his own declarations to the people of the United States. He knew very well, unquestionably, the stories circulated in the American camps, that his voice had been loudest and last in urging hopeless war, in telling impossible tales of visionary Spanish rein- forcements, and denouncing the Americans as "niggers'^ and "pigs." It is a fact that Spaniards have cultivated the notion among the rural Filipinos, that Americans are black men, and pigs is their favorite epithet for an American. The radical enemies of His Grace are, no doubt, responsible for unseemly stories about his animosities, for that he and those around him were sincere in their respect for, and gratitude toward the American army of occupation, for its admirable bearing and good conduct, was in itself too obviously true to be doubted. CHAPTER VIII. WHY WE HOLD THE PHILIPPINES. The Responsibility of Admiral Dewey— We Owe It to Ourselves to Hold the Philip- pines—Prosperity Assured by Our Permanent Possession— The Aguinaldo Question— Character Study of the Insurgent Leader— How Affairs Would Adjust Themselves for Us— Congress Must Be Trusted to Represent the People and Firmly Establish International Policy. If Admiral Dewey, after obeying the order of the President to destroy the Span- ish fleet at Manila, had steamed away and sought a station to get coal to drive liim some\Ahcre else, there would have been no Philippine question on the other side of the w^orld from Washington City. The Admiral desired to keep open telegraphic communication, and made a proposition to that effect, but the Spanish authorities curtly refused. Then the cable was cut by order of the Admiral, a section removed, and both ends marked by buoys. Reflection caused the Spaniards to regret that they had not consented to keep open the cable, that it might be used under restric- tions by both belhgerents. They mentioned their change of mind, and were told they were too late. The American Admiral may have been apprehensive, and he had reason to be, that the Spaniards, knowing they would be crushed in the West Indies if they risked a decisive naval engagement there, might send all their available ships of war to the Philippines, and secure a superiority of force, possibly to destroy their enemies at Manila. It is clear now that this is what the Spaniards ought to have tried to do. The Americans were committed to the blockade of Cuba, occupying all the vessels of war they had at hand, and the whole fleet of Spain could have been in the Suez Canal, on the way to Manila when the movement was known to our navy department. Then Admiral Dewey would, of course, have been warned by way of Hong Kong and a dispatch boat, that he should put to sea and take care of his men and ships. The result might have been the temporary restoration of the Philippines to Spain. Our Admiral, six hundred miles from Hongkong, the closest cable con- neciioM, could not afford to leave Manila in direct communication with Madrid. It was for this reason and not that he desired to keep out of way or orders, as some able publicists have kindly promulgated, that the Admiral cut the cable. The gravest of his responsibilities came upon him after his victory freed the harbor of declared enemies, and placed the great city at his mercy. If the Spaniards 91 92 . WHY WE HOLD THE PHILIPPIXES. used their big Krupp guns against his ships, he could bombard the city and burn it. He held the keys to the Philippines, with Manila under his guns, and the question before him then was the same before the country now. The question that inces- santly presses is, whether the Dewey policy is to be confirmed, and the logic of the stay in the harbor, and the dispatch of troops to take the town made good. We hold the keys of the Philippines. Shall we continue to do so? This question transcends in immediate importance — inevitable consequence — remote as well as near, all the war with Spain has raised. So broad a matter should not be rested on narrow grounds, nor decided with haste. It ought to be scrutinized in all its bearings, and all susceptibilities and material affairs regarded, for it will affect all the people for all time. What are the Philippines? They are the richest prize of soil and climate that has been at hazard in the world for many years — one that would be seized, if it could be done without war, by any of the great nations other than our own without hesi- tation. The only scruple we need entertain, the sole reason for deliberation, is be- cause it is a duty of the government to be sure when there are imperial considera- tioiis to be weighed, that the people should be consulted. It was on this account distinctly, that the President knew the issue of the permanency of the possession of the Philippines was one of peculiar novelty and magnitude, that he permitted it to exist. Spain must have been as accjuiescent in this as in yielding the independ- ence of Cuba, and the concession to us without any intermediate formality of Porto Eico. It is not inconsistent with the policy of magnanimity that is generally an- ticipated after the victory of a great power over a lesser one, that we should hold the Philippines. We have only to keep the power we have in peace, and let it work as a wholesome medicine, and all the islands of the group of which Manila is the cen- tral point, will be ours without conflict. In our system there is heahng for wounds, and attraction for the oppressed. The holding of the islands by Spain would signi- fy the continued shedding of blood, and drainage of the ^ital resources of the peninsula. As against Spain the Philippines will be united and desperate unto death, while they would without coercion walk hand in hand with us, and become the greatest of our dependencies — not states, but territories. It would be an act of mercy to Spain to send her soldiers and priests from the Phihppines, home. Even if we consent that she may keep her South Sea possession, she will lose it as she has all the rest, for the story of the Philippines is that of Span- ish South and Central America, and the modern story of Cuba is the old one of all countries South and West of the Gulf of Mexico and around by way of the Oceans 1.0 Argentina, Mexico, Venezuela, Peru, Chili, and the rest had the same bloody WHY AVE HOLD THE PHILIPPINES. 93 stream of histoiy to trace, and sooner or later the tale must all be told. Since Spain has already surrendered Cuba and Porto Rico, the record of the Philippines is the last chapter of her colonial experiences, by which she has dazzled and dis- gusted the world, attaining from the plunder of dependencies wealth that she in- Tested in o|)pressiA^e warfare to sustain a depraved despotism and display a grandeur that was unsound, sapping her own strength in colonial enterprises that could not be other than without profit, because the colonies were the property of the crown, and the prey of caste. The Spanish nation was forbidden by their gOYernment, not of the people or for the people, to profit by the colonies, and the viceroj^s, the captain-generals, and the whole official class were corrupted, and inefficient in all things, except methods of tyranny to procure a harvest of gold and silver not from the mines of the metals alone, but from the industries, whatever they were. The people at large were allowed no share in their own earnings, beyond a subsistence so scanty that deep humiliation and grievous hardship were the fateful rewards of labor. It was because the colonial policy of Spain impoverished and degraded the Span- iards at home, through the injustice, greed and profligacy of those abroad, that the huge structure, once so great an imposition upon mankind, a rotten fabric so gilt that the inherent weakness was disguised, has finally fallen into universal and irretrievable ruin. It is well Spain should retain the Canaries and the Balearic group, for they are as Spanish as any peninsular province, and legitimately belong therefore to the Idngdom. The application of this principle excludes Spain from the Philippines, and their des- have been committed by the failure of war to our hands. There is no nation that will dispute our peaceable possession of the Pliilippines. Any other nation's proprietor- ship will be challenged. Our authoritative presence in the islands will be a guarantee of peace, i^ny other assertion of supremacy will be the signal for war. Our as- sumption of sovereignty over the islands would quickly establish tranquility. Any other disposition of the burning questions now smoldering will cause an outburst of the flames of warfare. The Spaniards in Manila have been transient. They are not rooted in the soil. They all come and go like Captain-Generals, a mere official class, with the orders of the Church participating actively in secular concerns, more active as politicians than as teachers of rehgion. In the view of the native population it is as indispensable that the priests of Spain shall return to their native land as that the soldiers should go. The deportation of these people would remove classes of consumers and not affect unfavorably a productive industry, or the prosperit}^ of a self-sustain- ing community, and there would be but rare instances of the severance of family ties. 94 WHY WE HOLD THE PHILIPPINES. It will be said of the affirmation that, the avowal of the possession of the Philip- pines as a responsibility without end would be a peace measure, and anything else make for war, does not take into account the attitude of the Philippine Dictator, by proclamation, General Aguinaldo, and his followers. We desire to speak with respect of the General, for he has shown in trying times, under strong temptations, the pres- ence in his character of personal integrity in public matters, and reference is made to his refusal to consent to the division among insurgents alleged to be leaders, of the money paid by the Spaniards for the disarmament of the rebels, when two years ago there was an agreement upon the terms of a truce. This money transaction has been referred to as the sale of their cause by Aguinaldo and his associates, as if they, as individuals, had pocketed the usufruct of the bargain. The money was paid by Spain as an earnest of her sincerity, the Captain-General representing the force and good faith of the kingdom, in granting reforms to the Philippinos. On condi- tion of insurgent disarmament the people of the island were to be allowed representa- tion in the Spanish Cortes, the orders of the Church were to be removed from rela- tions to the Government that were offensive to the people. There was a long list of articles of specification of the reforms that were to be granted, the usual liberality of words of promise always bestowed by Spain upon her colonists. The representatives of Spain denied nothing that was asked; and to give weight to the program of con- cessions, there was paid in hand to Aguinaldo, through a transaction between banks in Manila and Hongkong^ four hundred thousand dollars, the first installment of eight hundred thousand dollars agreed upon."^ The Spaniards probably understood that they were bribing the insurgents and paying a moderate sum to cheaply end the war; and it did not cost the authorities of Spain anything, for they exacted the money from the Manila Bank of Spain, and still owe the bank. Aguinaldo's under- standing, acted upon, was different. He accepted the money as a war fund, and has held and defended it for the purchase of arms, and resumed hostilities when all promises of reform were broken, and nothing whatever done beyond the robbery of the bank to bribe the rebel chiefs, which was the Spanish translation. Of course, it was claimed by the enemies of Aguinaldo that he was bought and paid for, but he has maintained the fund, though there were those professors of rebellion, who made claims to a share of the money. The second installment of the money that the rebels were to have been paid is yet an obligation not lifted, and the hostilities were revived as soon as the craft of the Spanish negotiators in promising everything because * In another chapter of this story of the Philippines will be found Senor Filipe Agonccllo's personal account of this affair. WHY WE HOLD THE PHILIPPINES. 95 they meant to do nothing, became obvious. The actual proceedings in this case can be summed up in a sentence: The Spaniards took four hundred thousand dollars cut of the Bank of Spain and gave it to the insurgents, for a temporary armistice. General Aguinaldo, though he appears very well in refusing to employ the money paid by Spain as a bribe for himself, has not the elements of enduring strength as the leader of the insurgents. As against the Spaniards he can keep the field, and carry on a destmctive guerilla warfare, hopeless on both sides, like that going on in Cuba, when that island was invaded by the American army. But as against Ameri- can rule the Philippines would cease to be insurgents. The islanders will not be controlled by sentimentalism. Government by the United States w^ould differ from that by Spain, as the two nations are different in character, in the nature of their political institutions, in their progressive movement. America is all active and free, and her freedom would be extended to the islanders. The transformation would be one from the paralysis of despotism to the life of liberty. The words despotism and freedom would instantly have a distinct business meaning. Make known in the city of Manila that the Americans will abandon it, and the reviving hopes of the men of affairs would be instantly clouded, and the depression deepen into despondency and despair. Let it be the news of the day that the Americans will stay, and the intelli- gence of the city would regard its redemption as assured, every drooping interest re- vive, and an era of prosperity unknown under the dismal incompetency of Spain, open at once. It is legitimate that there should be freedom of speech as to the details of the proceedings. If our Government should do what Admiral Dewey did when he was the master of Manila, because he had annihilated the Spanish fleet and had the power to destroy the city — cast anchor and stay where we are already in command — the task is neither so complex nor costly as its opponents claim. Our territorial system is one easy of application to colonies. We have had experience of it from the first days of our Government. There is no commandment that a Territory shall become a State in any given time, or ever. We can hold back a Territory, as we have Arizona and New Mexico, or hasten the change to Statehood according to the conditions, and the perfect movement of the machinery requires only the pres- ence in Congress of dominant good sense. Congress is easily denounced, but no one has found a substitute for it, and it is fairly representative of the country. Congress will never gamble away the inheritance of the people. It will probably, in spite of all shortcomings, have its average of ability and utility kept up. Congress may go wrong, but will not betray. Our outlying possessions must be Territories until they are Americanized, and we take it Americans know what that word means. If a specification is wanted as a definition, we have to say the meaning is just what has 96 WHY WE HOLD THE PHILTPPmES. . happened in California since our flag was there. In the case of the Philippines^, if we sticky and we do not see how we can help doing so, the President will, in regular course, appoint a Territorial Governor, and as a strong Grovernment capable of quick and final decisions must be made, the Governor should be a military man, and have a liberal grant, by special Act of Congress, of military authority. He should be a prompt, and all around competent administrator. He will not have to carry on war offensive or defensive. He need not be in a hurry to go far from Manila. He will not be molested there. The country will gravitate to him. The opponents of the Republican form of Government, as it is in the ITnited States and the Territories of the Xation will become insignificant in the Philippines. They will have no griev- ances, except some of them may not be called at once to put on the trappings of personal potentiality. General Aguinaldo would find all the reforms the Spanish promised when they paid him four hundred thousand dollars to prove their good intentions, free as the air. He could not make war against the benignancy of a Government, Republican in its form and its nature, which simply needs a little time, some years maybe, before erasing the wrongs that have had a growth of cen- turies. The American Governor-General need not send out troops to conquer dis- tricts,coercing the people. The joeople will soon be glad to see the soldiers of the United States, the representatives of the downfall and departure of the instruments of Spain. Aguinaldo and his party have a Congress. It might be an approved beginning of a Territorial Legislature, and the insurgent General might be the pre- siding officer. There would be abundant reason for the auspicious exercise of all his rights in the public service. As for the cost of the Philippines under our Govern- ment, that would fall upon the treasury of the United States. There can be no doubt that it would be for several years a considerable sum, but the public men who favored peace for the liberation of Cuba, did not make counting the cost the most prominent feature of the war they advocated, but accepted the fact that the national honor and fame, the glory of heroism and deeds of daring and sacrifice, are priceless, and their achievement beyond price. There is to be said under this head, that the Philippine Islands are of natural riches almost without parallel. The great isle of Luzon teems with productions that have markets the world over, and it is commonplace for the savages in the mountains to come out of their fastnesses with nuggets of gold to make purchases. Cotton, sugar, rice, hemp, coffee and tobacco, all tropical fruits and woods, are of the products. There is profusion of the riches that await the freedom of labor and the security of capital, and the happiness of the people. Under American government the Philippines would prosper, and it would be one of our tasks to frame legislation. The laws of Congress would be the higher WHY WE HOLD THE PHILIPPINES. 97 «ode of law, and the Philippines would desire, and he invited, of course, to send their :abl-est men to be Territorial representalives in the Ccmgress of the United States. In the name of peace, therefore, and in hehall of the dignit}' and authority of this Nation — in mercy to the Spaniards, in justice to the Filipinos, it is due ourselves, and should have the favor of all who would see onr countr}^ expand with the ages, and walking in the footsteps of Washington and Jefferson, finchng the path of empire that of freedom and taking our place as a gxeat Power, accepting the logic of our history, and the discharge of the duties of destiny^— we should hold on to the Philip- pines — and when the great distance of those islands from this continent is men- tioned, remember that the Pacific may now be crossed in as few days as was the A.tlantic forty years ago. The labor questions and the silver questions even come into the Philippines prob- lem to be scanned and weighed. In Eastern Asia, which we have invaded, and a part of which we have appropriated for a time, the people use silver for the measure of value, and in the islands that interest us, as they do not deal in the mysteries of rupees, but in dollai's, the facts in the case are plainly within the common under- standing. In Manila tire Mexican dollar goe^s in ordinary small exchanges, pa3^ment of wages and Bettlement of bills, for fifty cents; but the banks sell the Mexicans twenty-one of them for ten gold dollars — an American eagle! So far as the native people go, labor and produce are counted in silver, and the purchaser, or employer gets as much for a silver dollar as for a gold dollar. The native will take ten dollar 3 in gold for ten dollars only in all settlements of accounts, and would just as willingly — even more so, accept ten Mexican dollars as ten American dollars in gold coin. Salaries are paid and goods delivered according to the silver standard. Of course, in due time this state of tilings will pass away, ii we hold to the gold standard, but as the case stands the soldiers and sailors of our army and fl-cet, ,paid under the home stand- ard, receive double pay, and get double value received for clothing, tobacco and what- ever they find they want — indeed, for the necessaries and luxuries of life. The double standard in this shape is not distasteful to the boys. We have both theories and conditions confronting us in these aspects of the silver and labor questions. The Oriental people are obdurate in their partiality for silver. It is the cheaper labor that adheres to the silver standard, partially, it is held, because silver is the more convenient money for the payment of small sums. But labor can- not be ex^Dectecl, at its own expense, to sustain silver for the profit of capital, or rather of the middle man between labor and capital. Labor, so far as it is in politics in this country, should not, without most careful study and deliberation, conclude that its force in public affairs would be abated, and its policy of advancing wages antagonized 98 WPIY WE HOLD TJIE PHILIPPINES. by the absorption of the Philippines in our country. On the contrary, the states- manship that is representative of labor may discover that it is a great fact, one of the greatest of facts, that the various countries and continents of the globe are being from year to year more and more closely associated, and that to those intelhgently interested, without regard to the application of their views of justice or expediency, in the labor and silver questions — the convictions, the fanaticisms, of the vast silver nations — and enormous multitudes of the people of Asia, touching the silver standard — and the possible progress of labor, as a guiding as well as plodding ability in- creases incessantly in interest, and must grow in inheritance. As the conditions of progressive civilization are developed our interests cannot be wholly dissevered from those of the Asiatics. We would be unwise to contemplate the situation of to-day as one that can or should perpetuate itself. Suppose we accept, the governing responsi- bility in the Philippines. It it not beyond the range of reasonable conjecture that American labor can educate the laborers of the Philippines out of their state of servi- tude as cheap laborers, and lead them to co-operate rather than compete with us, and not to go into the silver question further than to consent that it exists, and is in the simplest form of statement, whether the change in the market value of the two money metals is natural or artificial. It is necessary in common candor to state that the most complete solution of the money metal embarrassments would be through the co-operation of Asia and America. Europe is for gold, Asia for silver, and the Americas divided. Japan is an object lesson, her approximation to the gold stand- ard has caused in the Empire an augmentation of the compensation of labor. This is not wholly due to the change in the standard. The war with China, the increase in the army and nav}^, and the absorption of laborers in Formosa, the new country of Japan, have combined with the higher standard of value, to elevate wages. Al] facts are of primary excellence in the formation of the policies of nations. CHAPTEE IX. THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS AS THEY AEE. Area and Population — Climate — Mineral Wealth — Agriculture — Commerce and Transportation — Revenue and Expenses — Spanish Troops — Spanish Navy — - Spanish Civil Administration — Insurgent Troops — Insurgent Civil Adminis- tration — United States Troops — United States Navy — United States Civil Administration — The Future of the Islands. General Frank V. Greene made an exhaustive study of all reports of an official character regarding the area, population, climate, resources, commerce, revenue and expenses of the Philippines Islands, and prepared a memorandum for the general information that is the most thorough and complete ever made, and is the latest and highest authority on all the subjects to which it relates, and they include the solid information the business men of the United States want respecting our Asiatic associations. The memorandum is herewith submitted in substance, and all the particulars of public concern. AREA AND POPULATION. These islands, including the Ladrones, Carolinas and Palaos, which are all under the Government of Manila, are variously estimated at from 1,200 to 1,300 in number. The greater portion of these are small and of no more value than the islands off the coast of Alaska. The important islands are less than a dozen in number, and 90 per cent, of the Christian population live on Luzon and the five principal islands of the Visayas group. The total population is somewhere between 7,000,000 and 9,000,000. This in- cludes the wild tribes of the mountains of Luzon and of ihe islands in the extreme south. The last census taken by the Spanish Government was on December 31, 188T, and this stated the Christian population to be 6,000,000 (in round numbers). This is distributed as follows: Per Area. Population. Sq. Mile. Luzon....... 44,400 3,426,000 79 Panay '. . . . 4,700 735,000 155 Cebu 2,400 504,000 210 Leyte 3,300 279,000 71 Bohol 1,300 245,000 188 Negros 3,300 242,000 59,800 5,422,000 91 99 -00 THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS AS THEY AEE. The density of population in these six islands is nearly 50 per cent, greater than in Illinois and Indiana (census of 1890), greater than in Spain, about one-half as great as in France, and one-third as great as in J^apan and China, the exact figures beino^ as follows: '■a Area. Illinois: 56,000 Indiana.... 35,910 Population. 3,82,6,351 2,192,494 Per- Sq. Mile. 68 61. 6,018,755 17,565,632 38,517,975 42,270,620 383,253,029 64 88, 189 286 292 91,910 Spain 197,670 France 204,092 Japan 147,655 China..... ...... 1,312,32S The next most important islands, in the order of population, are: Per Area. Population. Sq. Mile; Mindanao 34,000 Samar 4,800 Mindoro 4,000 Nomblon 600 Masbate 1,400 209,000 6 186,000 38 67,000 17 35,000 58 21,000 15 44,800 518,000 11 Various smaller islands, including the Carolinas, Ladrones and Palaos, carry the total area and Christian population to — 140,000 6,000,000 43 This is considerably greater than the density of population in the States east of the Eocky Mountains. Owing to the existence of mountain ranges in all the islands, and lack of communication in the interior, only a small part of the surface is inhabited. In many provinces the density of population exceeds 200 per square mile, or greater than that of any of the United States, except Massachusetts and Rhode Island. The total area of the Phihppines is about the same as that of Japan^ but its civilized population is only one-seventh. In addition to the Christian population^, it is estimated (in the Official Guide) that the islands contain the following: Chinese (principally in Manila) 75,000 Moors or Mohametans in Paragon and Jok 100,000 Moors or Mohametans in Mindanao and Basilan 209,000 Heathen in the Phihppines 830,000 Heathen in the Carolinas and Palaos 50,000 1,264,000 THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS AS THEY AEE. 101 The Official Guide gives a list of more than thirty different races, each speaking a different dialect; but five-sixths of the Christian population are either Tagalos or Visayas. All the races are of the Malay type. Around Manila there has been some mixture of Chinese and Spanish blood with that of the natives, resulting in the Mestizos or Half-breeds, but the number of these is not very great. As seen in the provinces of Cavite and Manila, the natives (Tagalos) are of small stature, averaging probably 5 feet 4 inches in height, ind 120 pounds in weight for the men, and 5 feet in height, and 100 pounds in v eight for the women. Their skin is coppery brown, somewhat darker than that of the mulatto. They seem to be industrious and hard-working, although less so than the Chinese. By the Span- iards they are considered indolent, crafty, untruthful, cowardly and cruel, but the 'SE^'^^■w^ ^»'^ PUBLIC DEBT. I was unable to obtain any precise information in regard to the colonial debt. The last book on statistics of imports and exports was for the fiscal year 1894, and the last printed budget was for 1896-7, which was approved by the Queen Regent in August, 1896. Subsequent to this date, according to the statements made to me by foreign bankers, the Cortes authorized two colonial loans of $11,000,000 (silver) each, known as Series A and Series B. The proceeds were to be used in suppressing the insurrection. Both were to be secured by a first lien on the receipts of the Manila custom house. Series A is said to have been sold in Spain and the proceeds to have been paid into the Colonial Office; but no part of them has ever reached the Philippines. Possibly 112 THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS AS THEY ARE. a portion of it was used in sending out the 25,000 troops which came from Spain to the Phihppines in the autumn of 1896. Series B was offered for sale in Manila, but was hot taken. An effort was then made to obtain subscribers in the Provinces, but with little or no success. The Government then notified the depositors in the Public Savings Bank- (a branch of the Treasury Department similar to the postal savings bureaus in other countries) that their deposits would no longer be redeemed in cash, but only in Series B bonds. Some depositors were frightened and took bonds, others declined to do so. Then came the blockade of Manila and all business was practically suspended. Xo printed report has been made concerning the debt, and I was unable to obtain any satisfactory statement of the matter from the treasury officials. The exact in regard to the Series A bonds can be learned in Madrid; but it will be difficult to learn how many of Series B were issued and what consideration was received for tliem. As already stated, both series of bonds rest for security on the receipts of the Manila custom house. SPANISH TROOPS. The Spanish prisoners of war number about 13,000, including about 400 officers. The infantry arms are about 32,000, the greater part Mauser model 1895, caliber 28, and the others Remingtons, model 1889, caliber -13. The ammunition is about S2,000,000 rounds. The field artillery consists of about twelve breech-loading steel guns, caliber 8 5-10 inches, and ten breech-loading mountain guns, caliber 3 2-10 inches. There are six horses (ponies) for each gun, but the harness is in bad order. Ammunition, about sixty rounds per gun, with possibly more in the arsenals. There are about 500 cavalry ponies, larger than the average of native horses, with saddles and equipments complete. There is also a battalion of engineers. The fortifications of the walled city are a fine sample of the Yauban type, on which military engineers expended so much ingenuity 150 years ago, and of which Spain possessed so many in her Flemish dominions. The first walls of Manila were built about 1590, but the present fortifications date from a short time after the capture and occupation of the place by the English, in 1762-61. They consist of bastions and curtains, deep, wet ditch, covered way, lunettes, demilunes, horn works, and all the scientific acces- sories of that day. They are in a good state of preservation, and mount several hundred bronze guns, but they are chiefly of interest to the antiquarian. On the glacis facing the ba}', and also on the open space just south of the walls, are mounted 9-inch breech loaders, four in all, made at Hoatoria, Spain, in 1884. They are well mounted, between high traverses, in which are bomb-proof magazines. THE PPIILIPPIXE ISLANDS AS THEY ARE. 113 These guns are practically iminjiired, and Admiral Dewey has the breech blocks. While not as powerful as the guns of the present day of the same caliber, the} are capable of effective service. Their location, however, is very faulty, as they are on the shore of the bay, with all the churches, public buildings and most valuable property immediately behind them. On the day after the naval battle Admiral Dewey sent word to the Governor-General that if these guns fired a shot at any of his vessels he would immediately reply with his whole c-quadron. Owing to their location, this meant a bombardment of the city. This threat was effective; these guns were never afterward fired, not even during the attack of August 13th, and in return the navy did not fire on them, but directed all their shells at the forts and trenches occupied by the troops outside of the suburbs of the city. Within the w^alled city are the cathedral and numerous churches, convents and monasteries, the public offices, civil and military, military workshops and arsenals, barracks for artillery, cavalry and engineers, storehouses and a few dwellings and shops. The infantry barracks are outside of the walls, four in number; viz.: iSTeysing, Fortin, Calzada and Fruita. They are modern and well constructed, and will accommodate about 4,000 men. They are now occupied by the United States troops. Under the terms of the armistice the arms laid down by the Spanish troops on August 14th are to be returned to them w^henever they evacuate the city, or the American army evacuates it. All other public property, including horses, artillerv, public funds, munitions, etc., is surrendered to the United States unconditionally. The question of sending back the troops to Spain is left absolutely to the decision of the authorities in Washington. They are all within the walled cit}', but as the public buildings are insufficient to accommodate them, they are quartered in the churches and convents. These buildings are not adapted for this purpose; they have no sinks, lavatories, kitchens or sleeping apartments, and there is great danger of an epidemic of sickness if the troops are not soon removed. Pending their removal they are being fed with rations furnished by the United States Commissary Department, and the officers receive from the United States suf- ficient money for their support. SPANISH NAVY. At the outbreak of the war the naval force in the Philippines consisted of 10 Cruisers. 19 Gunboats. 4 Armed Launches. 3 Transports. 1 Survey Boat. 37 114 THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS AS THEY ARE. Of these Admiral Dewey destroyed, on May 1st, ten cruisers and one transport, and he has since captured two gunboats. The Spaniards have sunk one transport and two or three gunboats in the Pasig Eiver. There remain thirteen or fourteen gunboats, which are scattered among the islands. They are of iron, from 140 to 200 tons each, are armed with one breech-loading rifle, caliber 3 6-10 inches, and two to four machine guns, each caliber 44-100 to 1 inch. One of the captured boats, the Callao, under command of Lieutenant Tappan, United States Navy, and a crew of eighteen men, rendered very efficient service in the attack of August 13th. These boats would all be useful in the naval police of the islands. They will, however, prob- ably be scuttled by the Spaniards before the islands are surrendered. The Navy Yard at Cavite has barracks for about 1,500 men (now occupied by United States troops) and has shops and ways for light work and vessels of less than 1,000 tons. Many of the gunboats above mentioned v/ere built there. The shal- low depth of Avater in Canacoa or Cavite Bay would prevent the enlargement of this naval station to accommodate large vessels, and the plan of the Spaniards was to create a large naval station in Subig Bay, on which considerable money has already been spent. SPANISH CIVIL ADMINISTRATION. The Government of the Philippine Islands, including tlie Ladrones, Carolinas and Palaos, is vested in the Governor-General, who, in the language of the Spanish Official Guide, or Blue Book, "is the sole and legitimate representative in these islands of the supreme power of the Government of the King of Spain, and, as such, is th supreme head of all branches of the public service, and has authority to inspect an() supervise the same, not excepting the courts of justice." The office is held by ^ Lieutenant-General in the Spanish army, and he is also Yice Royal Patron of the Indies, exercising in these islands the ecclesiastical functions conferred on the King of Spain by various Bulls of the Popes of Rome, Captain-General-in-Chief of the Army of the Philippines, Inspector-General of all branches of the service, Com- mander-in-Chief of the Naval Forces, and President of all corporations and societies which partake of an official character. What corresponds to his Cabinet, or Ministry, consists of (a) The Archbishop of Manila and four Bishops, who administer ecclesiastical affairs in the five dioceses into which the islands are divided for this purpose; the appointment of parish priests and curates, however, is vested in the Governor- General. The various religious orders which exercise so large an influence in the politics and business of the islands, viz.: Augustinians, Dominicans, Recollects. THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS AS THEY ARE. 115 Franciscans, Capuchins, Benedictines and Jesuits, are all under the management of the Bishops, subject to the supervision of the Pope, and the prerogatives of the King as Eoyal Patron, which prerogatives are exercised by the Governor-General as Viceroy. (b) The High Court of Justice in Manila, which is the Court of Appeals in civil and governmental cases for all the islands. There are two principal criminal courts in Cebu and Vigan (northern Luzon) and appeal in criminal cases lies to these courts or to the High Court of Manila. In every Province there is a court of primary jurisdiction in both civil and criminal cases. (c) The General, second in command, who is a . General of Division in the Spanish army. He is the sub-inspector of all branches of the military service, is Military Governor of the Province and city of Manila and commands all the troops stationed therein, and in the absence or sickness of the Captain General he com- mands all the military forces in the islands. (d) The General Commandant of Dock Yards and Squadron. This post is filled by a Vice Admiral in the Spanish navy, and he commands the naval forces, ships and establishments in the islands. (e) The Minister of Finance, or Intendente General de Hacienda, who is charged with the collection of customs and internal taxes, the expenditures of public money, and the audit and control of public accounts. (f) The Minister of the Interior, or Director General of Civil Administration, who is charged with all public business relating to public instruction, charities, health, public works, forests, mines, agriculture, industry and commerce, posts and telegraphs and meteorology. For the purpose of local administration the islands are divided into Provinces and Districts, classified as follows: 19 Civil Governments. 24 Political-Military Governments. 23 Political-Military Commands. 15 Military Commands. The most important of the Provinces are Manila, with a population of 400,238 (of which 10 per cent, are Chinese), and Cebu, with 504,076; and the least important districts are Balabas and Corregidor, with 420 and 320 respectively. The governor or commandant has supreme control within his province or dis- trict of every branch of the public service, including the Courts of Justice, and each reports to the Governor General. The Guardia Civil or Gendarmerie, is subject only to his orders, and for arrests and imprisonment for political offenses, he is re- sponsible, not to the law, but to the Governor General and the King. lie THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS AS THEY ARE. The Civil Governments are governed by Civil Governors, of the rank in the Spanish Civil Service of Chiefs of Administration of the second class. The Politi- cal Military Governments and Commands are in charges of military and naval officers of various grades, according to their size and importance; ranging from General of Division at Mindanao, Brigadier-Generals at Cebu and Iloilo, Captain in the navy at Paragua, down to Lieutenant at Balabas and Corregidor. The Civil or Military Governor is assisted by a secretary, a judge, an administrator of finances, a postmaster and a captain of police. The affairs of cities are managed by a council (Ayuntamiento) consisting of a president, a recorder (Sindico), one or more mayors (Alcaldo), six to ten aldermen (Eegidores) and a secretary. Outside of the cities each province or district is divided into a number of vil- lages or parishes (Pueblos); the total number of these is 1,055; in each there is a parish priest, a municipal captain, a justice of the peace, a school master and school mistress. The number of cities is very small, and the social life of the community depends almost wholly on the form of government of the Pueblos, or villages. In 1893 this was reorganized with the alleged intention of giving local self-govern- ment. The scheme is complicated and curious and only an outline of it can be given here. It is contained in full in the Royal Decree of May 19, 1893, a long document, supplemented by still longer regulations for carrying the same into effect. In brief every Pueblo in which there are paid more than 1,000 Cedulas (poll tax) shall have a municipal tribunal consisting of five members, by whom its local affairs- and funds ^hall be managed. The members are a Municipal Captain. Senior Lieutenant. Lieutenant of Police. Lieutenant of Agriculture. Lieutenant of Cattle. And the Village Priest is required to attend all the important meetings. The Captain holds office for four years, and is eligible for indefinite re-election; the Lieutenants hold office for four years also, one-half of them going out of office every two years, and they are ineligible for re-election until two years after the expiration of their . term. Both Captains and Lieutenants are elected, on a day designated by the Governor, and in presence of the village priest, and out- going Captain, by the Principalia, or body of principal men of the village. The vil- lage is subdivided into Barangayes, or group of about 100 families each, and for each Barangay there is a Chief or Headman (Cabeza), who is appointed by the Governor,. THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS AS THEY ARE. 117 on the recommendation of the Municipal Tribunal. The Principalia is made up oi Former Municipal Captains. Former Municipal Lieutenants. Former Gobernadorcilles. Chiefs of Barangayes. All inhabitants paying more than $50 annually in taxes. The Principalia choose the 12 electors as follows: 6 from the Chiefs of Barangayes. 3 from Former Municipal Captains. 3 from the largest taxpayers. The electors hold office for six years, and one-third go out of office every two years. The municipal Captain must be a resident of the village, more than 25 years of age, read and speak Spanish and be a Chief of Barangay. While the Municipal Tribunal nominally controls the local affairs, yet the Captain has the right to sus- pend all its acts which he considers against the public welfare, and report the mat- ter to the Provincial Governor, who has power to rescind them; the Captain appoints all village employes, and removes them at will; he can also fine and punish them for petty offenses; he issues orders to the police and collects the taxes. He holds a commission as Delegate or Representative of the Governor General, and, in fact, he exercises within his little bailiwick the same supreme power that the governor ex- ercises in the province, and the Governor General in the whole Archipelago. In each province there is a Junta or Council, whose membership consists of The Administrator of Finance. Two Vicars. The Public Physician. The latter Four Members must be residents of the Capital of the Province, and they are elected by the Municipal Captains, from a list of names submitted to them by the Junta with the approval of the Governor. The functions of this Junta or Council are solely those of inspection and advice. It watches over affairs of the Municipal Tribunals, and reports to the Governor its advice and recommendations concerning them. The Municipal Captain is obliged to deposit the taxes in the Provincial Treasur}', the keys of which are held by three members of the Council; he draws out the money in accordance with the municipal budget, and his accounts must be approved by his lieutenants, countersigned by the village priest, passed upon by the Provincial Council, and finally approved by the Governor. The Governor has power to suspend the Municipal Captain or any of his col- leagues for a period of three months, and t"he Governor General can remove one or 118 THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS AS THEY AEE. all of them from office at will; and "in extraordinary cases or for reasons of public tranquility^ the Governor shall have power to decree^ without any legal process, the abolition of the Municipal Tribunals." (Article 45.) In December, 1896, General Polavieja issued a decree, suspending the elections which were to take place that month for one-third of^the municipal electors, and directed the Governors of Provinces to send in names of persons suitable for ap- pointment, together with the recommendations of the village priest in each case. An examination of this unique scheme of village government shows that one-half of the electors are to be chosen from persons holding a subordinate office and ap- pointed by the Governor; that the village priest must be present at all elections and important meetings; that the Captain has all the responsibility, and he must also be of the class holding a subordinate office by appointment of the governor; that the acts of Municipal Tribunal can be suspended by the Captain and rescinded by the Governor; and, finally, if the Municipal Tribunal is offensive to the Governor General he can either remove its members and appoint others in their place or can abolish it altogether. Such is the Spanish idea of self-government; the Minister of the Colonies, in submitting the decree to the Queen Eegent, expatiated on its merits in giving the na- tives such full control of their local affairs, and expressed the confident belief that it would prove "most beneficent to these people whom Providence has Confided to the generous sovereignty of the Spanish monarchs." This scheme of government by Municipal Tribunals was highly approved by the natives, except that feature of it which placed so much power in the hands of the Governor and Governor General. This, however, was the essence of the matter, from the Spanish standpoint, and these portions of the Decree were the ones most fully carried out. The natives complained, on the one hand, of the delay in put- ting the Decree into operation, and on the other hand that so much of it as was established was practically nullified by the action of the Governors. Seeing that the Tribunals had really no power, the members soon turned their sessions (which the Decree required to be secret) into political meetings in favor of the insurrec- tion. So the whole project is thus far a failure; and the local administration is in considerable disorder, apart from that caused by the insurgents. In point of fact self- government and representation are unknown in these islands. The Archbishop and the four Bishops are appointed by the Pope; the Governor General, military and naval officers and all officials with a salary exceeding about $2,000 (silver) are ap- pointed by the King or the Minister of the Colonies. Yet all the expenses are paid from the Philippine Treasury; the salaries of all officials, military, naval, civil BRIGADIER-GENERAL F. V. GREENE. 1 'v^^ 4 pCiT^ If ''*! ?^ i IP; ^-^g^H THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS AS THEY ARE. 119 ;and ecclesiastical^ the expenses and pensions of the army, navy and churchy the cost of the diplomatic and consular service in Japan, China and Singapore, even a portion of the expenses of the Colonial office, Madrid, and of pensions paid to the descendants of Columbus — all come out of the taxes raised in the islands. The natives have no place in the government, except clerks in the public offices at Manila and the petty positions in the villages and the Ayentamientos of cities, where their powers and responsibilities, as we have seen, are at all times limited and subject to revocation whenever disapproved by the Governor. Though the population of the islands is 40 per cent, of that of Spain, they have no representation in the Cortes. GEN. GREENE'S HEADQUARTERS AT MANILA. There is a widespread report, almost universally believed by native Fihpinos and by foreign merchants, and even acknowledged by many Spaniards, that pecu- niary dishonesty and corruption exist throughout the whole body of Spanish office- holders, from the highest to the lowest. Forced contributions are said to be levied on the salaries of minor officials; the Regimental Paymasters and Commissaries are said to have sold part of the regimental stores for their own profit, the Collector of Customs and the Minister of Finance to have imposed or remitted fines ac the Cui 120 THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS AS THEY AEE. torn House and Internal Eevenue Office^ according to payment or non-payment of presents by merchants, the judges and court officials to have ^^borrowed'' from at- torneys large sums which are never paid, and even the Governor General is re- ported to have organized a regular system of smuggling in Mexican dollars, the importation of which was prohibited by law, on a fixed scale of payment to himself. The current report is that Weyler carried away over $1,000,000 as his savings during the three years from 1888 to 1891 that he held the office of Governor General, on a salary of $40,000 a year. Of the proof of these reports I have naturally no per- sonal knowledge, but they are matters of common talk and belief, and they have .been stated to me by responsible persons, who have long resided in the islands. As above stated, the Governor General is supreme head of every branch of the public service, not excepting the Courts of Justice. How this power was exercised is shown in the hundreds of executions for alleged political offenses, which took place during the years 1895, 1896 and 1897, by the thousands deported to Mindanao and Fernando Po, and by the number of political prisoners in jail at the time of our entry into Manila. On the first examination which General McArthur, as Military Governor, made of the jail, about August 22nd, he released over 60 prisoners con- fined for alleged political offenses. One of them was a woman who had been impris- oned for eleven years, by order of the Governor General, but without any charges ■ ever having been presented against her; another was a woman who had been in jail for three years on a vague charge, never formulated, of having carried a basket of cartridges to an insurgent. The day of reckoning for three centuries of this sort of government came whett Admiral Dewey destroyed the Spanish squadron on May 1st, 1898. An insur- rection had been in progress from August, 1896, to December, 1897. Unable to sup- press it the Government had made a written treaty with the insurgent leaders, pay- ing them a large sum of money and promising to introduce various reforms on con- dition that they would leave the country. Hardly had the Spanish officials recov- ered from this when the appalling disaster of the destruction of their fleet occurred under their very eyes. Then followed in rapid succession the naval blockade, the arrival of the insurgent leaders from Hongkong, the raising of the insurgent army, which blockaded jlanila on the land side, and finally, the American troops. At the end of 10-1 days after the destruction of the Spanish fleet, the city surrendered to a comjbined land and naval attack of the American forces. On the day after the capitulation, the American Commander in Chief issued his proclamation establishing a military government, ap- pointed a Military Governor, a Minister of Finance, a Collector of Customs, Col- THE PHILIPPIXE ISLANDS AS THEY ARE. 121 lector of Internal Eevenue, Postmaster and Judge of the Provost Court; took pos- session of all public funds (about $900^000)^ and all public offices, and as rapidly as possible put this government in operation. The machinery of the Spanish Government was thoroughly disorganized wlien we entered Manila. The Courts of Justice, except the inferior criminal courts, had not been in session since early in May; the officials had been cut off from commu- nication with the other islands and with Spain for over three months; there had been no customs to collect, and, owing to the entire suspension of business, but little internal revenue; a forced loan of $2,000,000 for military purpose had been ex- tracted from the Spanish-Philippine Bank, and yet the troops were several months in arrears of pay; all government offices outside the walled city had been moved to temporary quarters within the walls and their records had been lost or thrown into confusion; the officials seeing the inevitable end in sight, were intent only on plan- ning for their return to Spain. This disorganization was completed when the American Military officers took charge of the Government, and every Spanish official, without exception, refused absolutely to continue in service. They were immediately dismissed and dispersed. The situation thus created is without precedent in American history. When Scott captured the City of Mexico it was acknowledged on both sides that his occu- pation was only to be temporar}^, and there were no insurgents to deal with. When the Americans entered California they found only a scanty population, who were soon outnumbered by the American immigrants. But in the Philippine Islands there is a population of more than 7,000,000, governed by an alien race, whose rep- resentatives present in the Islands, including military and naval forces, clergy and civil employes do not exceed 30,000 in number. Against this Government an insurrection is in progress, which claims to have been successful in piovinces con- taining a population of about 2,000,000. The city and province of Manila, with a population of 400,000 more, have been captured and occupied by a foreign army, but whether its occupation is to be temporary or permanent has not yet been decided. Finally, the Government officials of all classes refuse to perform their functions; the desire of most of them is to escape to Spain. It was stipulated in the capitula- tion that they should have the right to do so at their own expense, and numbers of them, as well as friars, have already taken their departure. The Spanish officials have intense fear of the Insurgents; and the latter hate them, as well as the friars, with a virulence that can hardly be described. They liave fought tliem witli suc- cess, and almost without interruption for two years, and they will continue to light them with increased vigor and still greated prospects of success, if any attempt is 122 THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS AS THEY AKE. THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS AS THEY AEE. 123 made to restore the Spanish Government. In its present disorganized condition the Spanish Government could not successfully cope with them; on the other hand, it would not surrender to them. The result, therefore, of an attempted restoration of Spanish power in any of the islands would simply be civil war and anarchy, lead- ing inevitably and speedily to intervention by foreign nations whose subjects have property in the islands which they would not allow to be destroyed. INSITEGENT TKOOPS. It is very difficult to give figures for the exact numbers of insurgent troops. In his message to foreign governments of August 6th, asking for recognition of belliger- ency and independence, Aguinaldo claims to have a force of 30,000 men, organized into a regular army. This included the force in the provinces of Luzon outside of Manila. What was in evidence around Manila varied from 10,000 to 15,000. They were composed of young men and bo3's, some as young as fifteen years of age, re- cruited in the rural districts, having no property and nothing to lose in a civil war. They have received no pay and, although Aguinaldo speaks in his proclamation of his intention and ability to maintain order wherever his forces penetrate, yet the feeling is practically universal among the rank and file that they are to be com- pensated for their time and services and hardships by looting Manila. Their equipment consists of a gun, bayonet and cartridge box; their uniform of a straw hat, gingham shirt and trousers and bare feet; their transportation of a few ponies and carts, impressed for a day or week at a time; for quarters they have taken the public building in each village or pueblo, locally known as the Tribunal, and the churches and convents; from these details are sent out to man the trenches. Their food while on duty consists of rice and banana leaves, cooked at the quarters and sent oat to the trenches. After a few days or a week of active service they return to their homes to feed up or work on their farms, their places being taken by others to whom they turn over their guns and cartridges. Their arms have been ob- tained from various sources, from purchases in Hongkong, from the supply which Admiral Dewey found in the arsenal at Cavite, from capture made from the Span- iards. They are partly Mausers and partly Kemingtons. Their ammunition was obtained in the same way. They have used it freely and the supply is now rather short. To replenish it they have established a cartridge factory at the village of Imus, about ten miles south of Cavite, where they have 400 people engaged in re-loading cartridges with powder and lead found at Cavite, or purchased abroad. They have no artillery, except a few antique Columbiads obtained from Cavite, and no cavalry. Their method of warfare is to dig a trench in front of the Spanish position, cover it with mats as a protection against the sun and rain, and during 124 THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS AS THEY ARE. the night put their guns on top of the trench above their heads and fire in the gen- eral direction of the enemy. When their ammunition is exhausted they go off in a body to get a fresh supply in baskets and then return to the trenches. The men are of small stature^ from 5 feet to 5 feet 6 inches in height, and weigh from 110 to 130 pounds. Compared with them our men from Colorado and Cali- fornia seemed like a race of giants. One afternoon just after we entered Manila a battalion of the insurgents fired upon the outposts of the Colorado regiment, mis- taking them, as they claimed, for Spaniards. The outpost retreated to their support, and the Filipinos followed; they easily fell into an ambush and the support, number- ing about fifty me^i, surrounded the 250 Filipinos, wrenched the guns out of their hands and marched them off as unarmed prisoners — all in the space of a few min- utes. Such a force can hardly be called an arm}-, and yet the service which it has rendered should not be underestim-ated. Between 2,000 and 3,000 Spanish native troops surrendered to it during the months of June and July. It constantly annoyed and harrassed the Spaniards in the trenches, keeping them up at night and wearing them out with fatigue; and it invested Manila early in July so completely that all supplies were cut off and the inhabitants as well as the Spanish troops were forced to live on horse and buffalo meat, and the Chinese population on cats and dogs. It captured. the water works of Manila and cut off the water supply, and, if it had been in the dry season, would have inflicted great suffering on the inhabitants for lack of water. These results, it is true, were obtained against a dispirited arni}^, containing a considerable number of native troops of doubtful loyalty. Yet, from August, 1896, to April, 1897, they fought 25,000 of the best regular troops sent out from Spain, inflicting on them a loss of over 150 officers and 2,500 men, killed and wounded, and they suffered still greater losses themselves. Nevertheless, from daily contact with them for six weeks, I am very confident that no such results could have been obtained against an American arni)^, which would have driven them back to the hills and reduced them to a petty guerilla warfare. If they attack the American army this will certainly be the result, and, while these guerilla bands might give some trouble so long as their ammunition lasted, yet, with our navy guarding the coasts and our army pursuing them on land, it would not be long before they were reduced to subjection. INSURGENT CIVIL ADMINISTRATION. In August, 1896, an insurrection broke out in Cavite, under the leadership of Emilio Aguinaldo, and soon spread to other provinces on both sides of Manila. It continued with varying successes on both sides, and the trial and execution of numerous insurgents, until December, 1897, when the Governor-General, Prime de THE PHILIPPINE ISLAXDS AS THEY ARE. 125 liivera, entered into written agreement with Aguinaldo, the substance of the docu- ment^ which is in possession of Senor Fehpe Agoncillo^ who accompanies me to Washington^ being attached hereto and marked "A." In brief, it required that Aguinaldo and the other insurgent leaders should leave the country, the Government agreeing to pay them $800,000 in silver, and promising to introduce numerous Teforms, including representation in the Spanish Cortes, freedom of the press, amnesty for all insurgents, and the expulsion of secularization of the monastic orders. Aguinaldo and his associates went to Hongkong and Singapore. A portion of the money, $400,000, was deposited in banks at Hongkong, and a lawsuit soon arose between Aguinaldo and one of his subordinate chiefs, named Artacho, which is interesting on account of the very honorable position taken by Aguinaldo. Artacho sued for a division of the money among the insurgents, according to rank. Aguin- aldo claimed that the money was a trust fund and was to remain on deposit until it was seen whether the Spaniards would carry out their promised reforms, and if they failed to do so it was to be used to defray the expenses of a new insurrection. The suit was settled out of court b} paying Artacho $5,000. Xo steps have been taken to introduce the reforms, more than 2,000 insurgents who had been deported to Fernando Po and other places are still in confinement, and Aguinaldo is now using the money to carry on the operations of the present insur- rection. On the 2-J:th day of April Aguinaldo met the United States Consul and others 3.1 Singapore and offered to begin a new insurrection in conjunction with the opera- tions of the United States navy at Manila. This was telegraphed to Admiral Dewey and, by his consent, or, at his request, Aguinaldo left Singapore for Hongkong on April 26th, and, when the McCullough went to Hongkong early in May to carry the news of Admiral Dewey's victory, it took Aguinaldo and seventeen other revolu- tionary chiefs on board and brought them to Manila Bay. They soon after landed at Cavite, and the Admiral allowed them to take such gttns, ammunition and stores as he did not require for himself. With these and some other arms which he had brought from Hongkong Aguinaldo armed his followers, who rapidly assembled at Cavite and, in a few weeks, he began moving against the Spaniards. Part of them surrendered, giving him more arms, and the others retreated to Manila. Soon afterwards two ships, which were the private property of Senor Agoncillo and other insurgent sympathizers, were converted into cruisers and sent with insur- gent troops to Subig Bay and other places, to capture provinces outside of Manila. They were very successful, the native militia in Spanish service capitulating with their arms in nearly every case without serious resistance. On the 18th of June 126 THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS AS THEY ARE. Aguinaldo issued a proclamation from Cavite establishing a Dictatorial Government^ with himself as Dictator. In each village or pueblo a Chief (Jefe) was to be elected^ and in each ward a Nendrum (Cabeza); also in each pueblo three delegates, one of Police, one of Justice, and one of Taxes. These were to constitute the J-unta, or Assembly, and after consulting the Junta the' Chiefs of pueblos were to elect a Chief of Province and three Counsellors, one of Police, one of Justice, and one of Taxes.' They were also to elect one or more Eepresentatives from each Pro\dnce to form the Eevolutionary Congress. This was follow^ed on June 20th by a decree giving more detailed instructions in regard to the elections. On June 23d another decree fol- lowed, changing the title of the Government from Dictatorial to Revolutionary, and of the chief officer from Dictator to President; announcing a Cabinet with a Minister of Foreign Affairs, Marine and Commerce, another of War and Public Works, another of Police and Internal Order, eTustice, Instruction and Hygiene, and another of Taxes, Agriculture and Manufactures; the powers of the President and Congress were defined, and a code of military justice was formulated. On the same date a manifesto was issued to the world explaining the reasons and purposes of ihe Revolution. On June 27th another decree was issued containing instructions in regard to elections. On August 6th an address was issued to Foreign Governments, stating that the Revolutionary Government was in operation and control in fifteen Provinces, and that in response to the petition of the duly elected Chiefs of these Provinces an appeal is made for recognition of belligerency and independence. Translations of these various documents are all apended, marked "B," "C,'' "D," "E," "F," "G'^ and "H.'*' The scheme of Government is set forth in the decree of June 23d, marked "D.'^ An examination of this document shows that it provides a Dictatorship of the familiar South American type. All power is centered in the President, and he is not responsible to any one for his acts. He is declared to be ^^the personification of the Phihppine public, and in this view cannot be held responsible while he holds office. His term will last until the Revolution triumphs.'^ He appoints not only the heads of the departments, but all their subordinates, and without reference to Con- gress. This body is composed of a single Chamber of Representatives from each Province. The election is to be conducted by an agent of the President, and the qualifications of electors are "those inhabitants most distinsrui-^iied for high character, social position and honorable conduct." If any Province is still under Spanish rule its Representative is to be appointed by the President. Conofress is to deliberate on "all grave and transcendental ques- tions, whose decision admits of delay and adjournment, but the President may THE PHILIPPI^T: ISLAis^DS AS THEY ARE. 12? 128 THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS AS THEY ARE. decide questions of urgent character, giving the reasons for his decision in a message to Congress/' The acts of Congress are not binding until approved by the President, and he has power of absohite veto. Congress was to hold its first session at Saloles about September 28th. While this scheme of Government is a pure despotism, yet it claims to be only temporary, and intended to "prepare the country so that a true Repubhc may be established." It also provides a rude form of governmental machinery for managing the affairs of the Provinces. To what extent it has actually gone into operation it is difficult to say. ilguinaldo claims, in his address of August 6th, that it is in force in fifteen Provinces, whose aggregate population is about 2,000,000. They include the island of Mindoro and about half of Luzon. None of those (except Cavite) have yet been visited by Americans, and all communication with them by the Spanish Gov- ernment at Manila has been cut off since May 1st. In the province of Cavite and that portion of the Province of Manila outside of the city and of its suburbs, which was occupied by the insurgent troops as well as those of the United States, their military forces, military headquarters, etc., were very much in evidence, occupying the principal houses and churches in every village and hamlet, but there were no signs of Civil Government or administration. It was reported, however, that Aguinaldo's agents were levying taxes or forced contributions not only in the outside villages, but (after we entered Manila) by means of secret agents, in the market places of the city itself. At Aguinaldo's headquarters, in Bacoor, there were signs of activity and business, and it was reported that his Cabi- net officers were in constant session there. Aguinaldo never himself failed to claim all the prerogatives due to his alleged position as the de facto ruler of the country. The only general officer who saw him or had any direct communication with him was General. Anderson. He did much to thwart this officer in organizing a native wagon train and otherwise providing for liis troops, and he went so far, in a letter of July 23d (copy herewith marked ''J'O, as to warn General Anderson not to land American troops on Phihppine soil without his consent — a notice which, it is hardly necessary to say, was ignored. The day before the attack on Manila he sent staff officers to the same General, asking for our plans of attack, so that their troops could enter Manila with us. The same request had previously been made to me by one of his Brigade Commanders, to which I replied that I was not authorized to give the information desired. Aguinaldo did not call upon General Merritt on his arrival, and this enabled the latter to avoid any communication with him, either direct or indirect, until after Manila had been taken. General Merritt then received one of Aguinaldo's staff THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS AS THEY AEE. 129 officers in his office as Military Governor. The interview lasted more than an hour. General Merritt referred to his proclamation as showing the conditions under which the American troops had come to Manila and the nature of the Military Government, which would be maintained until further orders from Washington. He agreed upon the lines outside of the city of Manila, up to which the insurgent troops could come, but no further with arms in their hands. He asked for possession of the water works, which was given, and, while expressing our friendship and sympathy for the Philip- pine people, he stated very positively that the United States Government had placed at his disposal an ample force for carrying out his instructions, and even if the services of Aguinaldo's forces had been needed as alhes he should not have felt at liberty to accept them. The problem of how to deal with Aguinaldo's Government and troops will nec- essarily be accompanied with embarrassment and difficulty, and will require much tact and skill in its solution. The United States Government, through its Xaval Commander, has, to some extent, made use of them for a distinct military purpose, viz.: to harass and annoy the Spanish troops, to wear them out in the trenches, to blockade Manila on the land side, and to do as much damage as possible to the Spanish Government prior to the arrival of our troops, and for this purpose the Admiral allowed them to take the arms and munitions which he had captured at Cavite, and their ships to pass in and out of Manila Bay in their expeditions against other Provinces. But the Admiral has been very careful to give Aguinaldo no assurances of recognition and no pledges or promises of any description. The services which Aguinaldo and his adherents rendered in preparing the way for attack on Manila are certainly entitled to consideration, but, after all, they were small in com- parison with what was done by our fleet and army. There is no reason to believe that Aguinaldo's Government has any elements of stability. In the first place, Aguinaldo is a young man of twenty-three years. Prior to the insurrection of 1896 he had been a schoolmaster, and afterward Goberna- doreillo and Municipal Captain in one of the pueblos in the Province of Cavite. He is not devoid of ability, and he is surrounded by clever writers. But the educated and intelligent Fihpinos of Manila say that not only is he lacking in ability to be at the head of affairs, but if an election for President was held he would not even be a candidate. He is a successful leader of insurgents, has the confidence of young men in the country districts, prides himself on his military ability, and if a Eepublic could be established the post he would probably choose for himself would be General- in-Chief of the Army. In the next place, Aguinaldo's Government, or any entirely independent Govern- 130 THE PIiILIPPIXE ISLANDS AS TIIEY ARE. ment, does not command the hearty support of the large body of Filipinos, both in Manila and outside, who have property, education and intelligence. Their hatred of the Spanish rule is very keen and they will co-operate with Aguinaldo or any one else to destroy it. But after that is done they fully realize that they must have the support of some strong nation for many years before they will be in a position to manage their own affairs alone. The nation to which they all turn is America, and their ideal is a Philippine Republic, under American protection — such as they have heard is to be granted to Cuba. But when it comes to defining their ideas of protection and the respective rights and duties of each under it, what portion of the Government is to be administered by them and what portion by us; how the revenues are to be collected, and in what proportion the expenses are to be divided; they have no clear ideas at all; nor is it expected that they should have, after generations of Spanish rule without any experience in self government. The sentiment of this class, the educated native with property at stake, looks upon the prospect of Aguin- aldo's Government and forces entering Manila with almost as much dread as the foreign merchants or the Spaniards themselves. Einally, it must be remembered that this is purely a Tagalo insurrection. There are upwards of thirty races in the Philippines, each speaking a different dialect, but five-sixths of the entire Christian population is composed of the Tagalos and Visayas. The former live in Mindoro and the southern half of Luzon, and the latter in Cebu, Iloilo and other islands in the center of the group. The Tagalos are more numerous than the Visayas, but both races are about equal in civilization, intelli- gence and wealth. It is claimed by Aguinaldo's partisans that the Yisayas are in sympathy with his insurrection and intend to send representatives to the congress. But it is a fact that the Visayas have taken no active part in the present insurrec- tion nor in that of 1896, that the Spanish Government is still in full control at Cebu and Iloilo, and in the Viscayas islands, and that Aguinaldo has as yet made no effort to attack them. The Visayas number nearly 2,000,000, or about as many as the population of all the Tagalo Provinces, which Aguinaldo claims to have cap- tured. There is no evidence to show that they will support his pretensions, and many reasons to believe that on account of racial prejudices and jealousies and other causes they will oppose him. Upon one point all are agreed, except possibly Aguinaldo and his immediate ad- herents, and that is that no native government can maintain itself without the active support and protection of a strong foreign government. This being admitted it is difficult to see how any foreign government can give this protection without taking THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS AS THEY ARE. 131 such an active part in tlie management of affairs as is practically equivalent to governing in its own name and for its own account. EXITED STATES TROOPS AND NAVY. I assume that the reports received at the War and Navy Departments give all the desired information in regard to the military forces of the United States. At the time I left (August 30th) the Eighth Corps consisted of two divisions, numbering in all about 12,000 men, with 16 field guns and 6 mountain guns. No wagons or animals had tlien arrived. One regiment was stationed within the walled city guarding its gates, and the captured guns and ammunition; a small force was at Cavite, and the bulk of the troops were in Manila, outside of the walled city. They were quartered in the Span- ish barracks, which were all in good condition, and in convents and private houses. The health of the troops was excellent, notwithstanding the extraordinary hardships to which they had been subjected in the trenches before entering Manila. Admiral Dewey had under his command the Charleston, Monterey and Monad- nock, which arrived in July and August, the Callao and Leyte, which had been captured from the Spaniards, and the ships which were in the battle of May 1st, viz: Olympia, Boston, Baltimore, Raleigh, Concord, Petrel and McCullough. The health of the squadron was excellent. The Olympia and Concord were being docked and cleaned at Hongkong. Permission to use the docks at Nagansaki during the suspension of hostilities had been declined. UNITED STATES CIVIL ADMINISTRATION. "We entered Manila on the afternoon of August 13th. On the 14th the capitula- tion was signed, and the same day General Merritt issued his proclamation estab- lishing a Military Government. On the 15th General Mc Arthur was appointed Military Commander of the walled city and Provost Marshal General of the City of Manila and its suburbs, and on the 17th I was appointed to take charge of the duties performed by the intendente General de Hacienda, or Minister of Finance, and all fiscal affairs. Representatives of the Postofhce Department had arrived on the Steamship China in July and they immediately took charge of the Manila Post- office, which was opened for business on the 16th. The Custom House was opened on the 18th, with Lieutenant-Colonel Whittier as Collector, and the Internal Rev- enue office, with Major Bement as Collector on the 22nd. Captain Glass of the Navy was appointed Captain of the Port, or Naval Officer, and took cliarge of the office on August 19th. The collections of customs during the first ten days 132 THE PHILIPPINE ISLxiXDS AS THEY AEE. exceeded $100^000. The collection of internal revenne was small owing to the difficulty and delay in ascertaining what persons had or had not paid their taxes for the current year. The administration of Water Works was put in charge of Lieutenant Connor, of the Engineers, on August 25th, the Provost Court with Lieu- tenant-Colonel Jewett, Judge Advocate United States Volunteers, sitting as Judge, was appointed and held its first session on August 23rd. The Provost Marshal General has charge of the Police, Fire, Health and Street Cleaning Departments, and the issuing of licenses. The Guardia Civil, or Gendar- merie of the Cit}^, proving indifferent and inefficient, they were disarmed and dis- banded; the 13th Minnesota regiment was detailed for police duty, and one or more companies stationed in each Police Station, from vv^hich patrolmen, were sent out on the streets to take the place of the sentries who had constantly patrolled them from the hour of entering the city. The shops were all closed when we entered on Saturday afternoon, the 13th; on Monday some of them opened, and by Wednesday the Banks had resumed business^ the newspapers were published, and the merchants were ready to declare goods at the Custom House, the tram cars were running and the retail shops were all open and doing a large business. There was no disorder or pillage of any kind in the city. The conduct of the troops was simply admirable, and left no ground for criticism. It was noted and commented upon by the foreign naval officers in the most favorable terms, and it so surprised the Spanish soldiers that a considerable number of them applied for permission to enlist in our service. At the time I left General McArthur fully established his office as Provost Marshal General, and was organizing one by one the various bureaus connected with it, all with United States military officers in charge; the Provost Court was in daily session, sentencing gamblers and persons guilty of petty disturbances, and a mili- tary commission had just been ordered to try a Chinaman accused of burglary. In various pubhc offices I collected the following Spanish funds: At the General Treasury $795,517.71 At the Mint. . " 62,856.08 At the Internal Revenue Office . 24,077.60 . $882,451.39 Of this amount there was in Gold Coin $ 4,200.00 Gold Bars,. • . 3,806.08 Silver Coin 190,634.81 Copper Coin 297,300.00 Spanish Bank Notes 216,305.00 Accepted Checks 170,205.50 .^r^ ■ )00-C,^0l.O^ THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS AS THEY ARE. 133 The money was counted by a board of officers and turned over to Major C. H. Whipple/ Paymaster L^ S. A., as custodian of Spanish Public Funds. A few thou- sand dollars in other public offices were still to be collected. The money received at the Custom House and other offices is turned in daily,, at the close of business^ to Major Whipple. Money for current expenses is furnished to heads of departments on their requisition, by warrant drawn by the Intendente General on the Custodian of Spanish Pubhc Funds. The heads of the departments are to submit their vouchers and accounts monthly to an auditing department, v\-hich was being organized when I left. All these public offices and funds were surrendered to me only on threat of using force and on granting permission to file a formal written protest. None of these had been received at the time I left, but the ground of verbal protest was that the officials recognized no authority in these islands but the Governor General appointed by the King of Spain, and without his order they w^re unwilling to sur- render them. On the other hand, I recognized no authority of the Spanish Gov- ernor General who was merely a prisoner of war; I acted under the orders of Gen- eral Merritt as the United States Military Governor, and in accordance with the terms of capitulation. The claim will probably be made by the Spanish officials that as we captured Manila a few hours after the peace protocol had been signed at Washington, this property still belongs to the Spaniards. But I believe that the law in such cases was clearly defined in decisions made by the United States Su- preme Court in 1815. We captured Manila, and the capitulation (under which these funds became United States property) was signed by both parties, before either had received any notice of the protocol of suspension of hostilities. On the opening of the Custom House several important questions arose for im- mediate decision. The first was in regard to Mexican dollars. The importation of these has for several years been prohibited, with a view of forcing the Spanish coin- age (which contains less silver) into circulation. The large English banks repre- sented that there was a scarcity of currency, owing to the amount which had been hoarded and sent away during the seige, and they agreed in consideration of being allowed to import Mexican dollars free of duty, to guarantee the notes and accepted checks of the Spanish bank, which should be received by us in payment of customs up to $200,000 at any one time. The Spanish bank was in difficulty, owing to the enormous amount which the Government had taken from it under the form of a forced loan, and any discrimination on our part against it would result in its failure,. 134 THE PHILIPPIXE ISLAXDS AS THEY ARE. entailing widespread financial disturbance. As there seemed no reason against al- lowing the importation of Mexican dollars and many in favor of it, I recommended that the Custom House continue to receive the notes and checks of this bank in payment of customs (for which we were amply protected by the guarantee of the strong English banks) and with General Merritt's approval wrote to these banks au- thorizing them to import Mexican dollars free of duty until further notice. The next question was in regard to the rate of duties on imports and exports. After a careful consideration of the matter, I recommended that the tariff be not changed until the question had been fully studied and ample notice given. Gen- eral Merritt approved this and the customs are being collected on the Spanish tariff. About a week after the Custom House was opened certain parties came to me representing that Consul General Wildman, of Hongkong, had informed them that United States goods would be admitted free of duty in Manila, that acting on this they had purchased a cargo of American illuminating oil in Hongkong, and that the payment of the heavy duty on it ($30 per ton, or about 8c per gallon) would ruin them. On. consulting Lieutenant Colonel Crowder, Judge Advocate af the Eighth Army Corps, he pointed out the language of paragraph 5 of General Merritt's proclamation, which followed literally the instructions of the President, viz: "The Port of Manila will be open while our military occupation may continue, to the commerce of all neutral nations as well as our own, in articles not contra- band of war, and upon payment of the prescribed rates of duty which may be in force at the time of the importation.'- Under this there was clearly no authority for discriminating in favor of American goods, either coming direct from a United States Port or by transshipment at Hong- kong. The Collector of Customs was directed to act accordingly. Another question was in regard to the importation of Chinamen into Manila. The Consul at Hongkong telegraphed to know if they would be admitted. As there had been no time for examining the treaties and laws in force on this subject, I replied with General Merritt's approval that for the present it was not practicable to admit Chinese laborers into Manila. Another very important question which arose was in regard to trade with the ^other Philippine islands. Xearl} all the hemp and the greater part of the sugar 1 i 1 , V:i:- 1 S: -# 1 ■' . .;.- |-:-N;:. .v;n;^,-;. ■•1 - ' " 1 1 . :-,,.. / ] ^' ^'-'X^^^ ,_? ' ; . -«Jis.'' F m ^^C> ,- ] r- n i " v^'^C 1' ..i.-^-^ :-^- . 1 1 .^ > -^ I ;;i- , >0< . " m • - . . ip4 '. J ^ \ ^ - - — I - 5 ^ ' Hi. cr? •— t ^ ; inM*^ H ^2 - : '. '- ■^ ; ~ :^ : X ■ r i : - i " -< nr ^ y Binondo and San Miguel, as contemplated in his instructions. In the meantime tlie brigade of General Mac Arthur, advancing simultaneously on the Pasay road, encountered a very sharp fire, coming from the blockhouses, trenches, and woods in his front, positions which it was very difficult to carry, ow- ing to the swampy condition of the ground on both sides of the roads, and the heavy undergrowth concealing the enemy. With much gallantry and excellent judg- ment on the part of the brigade commander and the troops engaged these difficulties were overcome with a minimum loss (see report of brigade commander appended), and MacArthur advanced and held the bridges and the town of Malate, as was contemplated in his instructions. "The city of Manila was now in our possession, excepting the walled town, but OFFICIAL HISTORY OF THE CONQUEST OF MANILA. 155 shortly after the entry of our troops into Malate a white flag was displayed on the walls, whereupon Lieutenant-Colonel C. A Whittier, United States Volunteers, of my staff, and Lieutenant Brumby, United States Navy, representing Admiral Dewey^ were sent ashore to communicate with the Captain-General. I soon personally fol- lowed these officers into the town, going at once to the palace of the Governor-Gen- eral, and there, after a conversation with the Spanish authorities, a preliminary agree- ment of the terms of capitulation was signed by the Captain-General and myself. This agreement was subsequently incorporated into the formal terms of capitula- tion, as arranged by the officers representing the two forces, a copy of which is hereto appended and marked. "Immediately after the surrender the Spanish, colors on the sea front were hauled down and the American flag displayed and saluted by the guns of the navy. The Second Oregon Eegiment, which had proceeded by sea from Cavite, was disem- barked and entered the walled town as a provost guard, and the colonel was directed to receive the Spanish arms and deposit them in places of security. The town w^as filled with the troops of the enemy driven in from the intrenchments, regiments formed and standing in line in the streets, but the work of disarming proceeded quietly and riothing unpleasant occurred. "In leaving the subject of the operations of the 13th, I desire here to record my appreciation of the admirable manner in which the orders for attack and the plan for occupation of the city were carried out by the troops exactly as contemplated. I submit that for troops to enter under fire a town covering a wide area, to rapidly deploy and guard all principal points in the extensive suburbs, to keep out the in- surgent forces pressing for admission, to quietly disarm an army of Spaniards more than equal in numbers to the American troops, and finally by all this to prevent entirely all rapine, pillage, and disorder, and gain entire and complete possession of a city of 300,000 people filled with natives hostile to the European interests, and stirred up by the knowledge that their own people were fighting in the outside trenches, was an act which only the law-abiding, temperate, resolute American sol- dier, well and skillfully handled by his regimental and brigade commanders, could accomplish. The trophies of Manila were nearly $900,000,000, of which $240,000,000 were copper coin, 13,000 prisoners and 22,000 arms. Three days after the surrender. General Merritt received news of the protocol, and soon was ordered to Paris. In parting he says of the insurgent chief that he had written communication w^ith him on various occasions, and "he recognized my author- ity as military governor of the town of Manila and suburbs, and made professions- 156 OFFICIAL HISTOEY OF THE CONQUEST OP MANILA. of his willingness to withdraw his troops to a line which I might indicate, but at the same time asking certain favors for himself. The matters in this connection had not been settled at the date of my departure. Doubtless much dissatisfaction is felt by the rank and file of the insurgents that they have not been permitted to enjoy the occupancy of Manila, and there is some ground for trouble with them owing to that fact, but notwithstanding many rumors to the contrary, I am of the opinion that the leaders will be able to prevent serious disturbances, as they are sufficiently intelhgent and educated to know that for them to antagonize the United States would be to destroy their only chance of future political improvement. The Commanding General's personal acknowledgments are very handsome, as follows: "Brigadier-General E. P. Hughes, my inspector-general at San Francisco, was especially noticeable in accomplishing the instruction of the green troops that came to the city, many of them without arms, clothing, or equipment of any kind. His services will undoubtedly be duly recognized by Major-General Otis, with whom I left him to continue the good work. "I desire especially to express my acknowledgments to Brigadier-General Bab- cock, my adjutant-general and chief of staff, for his most valuable services from the inception of the campaign in San Francisco to the close of the work at the pres- ent time. This officer is too well known to require special mention of his services in any one direction. He was my right arm, not only in the office but in the field, and much of the success that has attended the expedition is due to his individual ef- forts. "I desire especially to mention Major McClure and Major Whipple, of the pay de- partment, who volunteered their services after they had completed their legitimate duties, and performed excellent work whenever called upon. Major McClure was especially important in his services immediately after the surrender, taking long rides under my orders to the Spanish lines, and bearing instructions to them which resulted in effecting their withdrawal in such manner as to prevent the incursion of the insurgents in the northern portions of the city. Other officers have been named in my special reports and have been recommended for brevets and promotion. "I especially call attention to the services of Captain Mott, as mentioned in the report of Brigadier-General Greene. He was cheerful, willing, intelhgent, and ener- getic in the discharge of the multifarious duties imposed upon him in connection with our troops and trenches during the rainy season, and in the final action showed those rare characteristics which stamp him as a very superior soldier." OFFICIAL HISTORY OF THE CONQUEST OF MANILA, 157 158 OFFICIAL HISTORY OF THE CONQUEST OF MANILA. THE TERMS OF CAPITUI iTION. The undersigned having heen appointed a commission to determine the details of the capitulation of the cit}' and defenses of Manila and its suburbs and the Span- ish forces stationed therein^ in accordance with the agreement entered into the pre- vious day by Major General Wesley Merritt, United States Army, American com- ]nander in chief in the Philippines, and His Excellency Don Fermin Jaudenes^ acting General in chief of the Spanish Army in the Philippines, have agreed upon the following: 1. The Spanish troops, European and native, capitulate with the city and its defenses, with all the honors of war, depositing their arms in the places designated by the authorities of the United States, and remaining in the quarters designated and under the orders of their officers, and subject to the control of the aforesaid ITnited States authorities, until the conclusion of a treaty of peace between the two belhgerent nations. All persons included in the capitulation remain at liberty, the officers remain- ing in their respective homes, which shall be respected as .long as they observe the regulations prescribed for their government and the laws in force. 2. Officers shall retain their side arms, horses, and private property. 3. All public horses and pubhc property of all kinds shall be turned over to staff officers designated by' the United States. L Complete returns in duplicate of men by organizations, and full lists of public property and stores shall be rendered to the United States within ten days from this date. 5. All questions relating to the repatriation of officers and men of the Spanish forces and of their families, and of the expenses which said repatriation may occasion, shall be referred to the Government of the United States at Washington. / Spanish families may leave Manila at any time convenient to them. The return of the arms surrendered by the Spanish forces shall take place when they evacuate the city or when the American Army evacuates. 6. Officers and men included in the capitulation shall be supplied by the United States, according to their rank, with rations and necessary aid as though they were prisoners of war, until the conclusion of a treaty of peace between the United States and Spain. All the funds in the Spanish treasury and all other public funds shall be turned over to the authorities of the United States. 7. This city, its inhabitants, its churches and religious worship, its educational OFFICIAL HISTORY OF THE CONQUEST OF MANILA. 159 establishments, and its private property of all descriptions are placed under the special safeguard of the faith and honor of the American Army. F. V. GREENE, Brigaaier-General of Volunteers, L^nited States Army. B. P. LAMBERTON, Captain, L'nited States Navy. CHARLES A. WHITTIER, Lieutenant-Colonel and Inspector-General. E. H. CROWDER, Lieutenant-Colonel and Judge-Advocate. NICHOLAS DE LA PETRA, Auditor General Excmo. CARLOS, Coronet de Ingenieros. JOSE, Coronet de Estado Major." The Spaniards wanted a long array of specifications as to what the Americans might and should not do, but finally were struck with the sufficiency of the shining simple words, ^'under the special safeguard of the faith and honor of the American Army.'"' CHAPTEE XI. THE ADMimSTEATIOISr OF GENERAL MEREITT. The Official Gazette Issued at Manila — Orders and Proclamations Showing the Policy and Detail of the Administration of Major-General Wesley Merritt, Who, as Commander of the Philippine Expedition, Became, Under the Cir- cumstances of the Capture of Manila, the Governor of That City. GENEEAL MEEEITT^S PEOCLAMATION TO THE FILIPmOS. Headquarters Department of the Pacific, August 14, 1898. To the People of the Philippines: I. War has existed between the United States and Spain since April 21 of this year. Since that date you have witnessed the destruction by an American fleet of the Spanish naval power in these islands, the fall of the principal city, Manila, and its defenses, and the surrender of the Spanish army of occupation to the forces of the United States. II. The commander of the United States forces now in possession has instruc- tions from his Government to assure the people that he has not come to wage war upon them, nor upon any part or faction among them, but to protect them in their homes, in their employments, and in their personal and religious rights. All persons, who, by active aid or honest submission, co-operate with the United States in its efforts to give effect to this beneficent purpose, will receiv^e the reward of its support and protection. III. The government established among you by the United States is a govern- ment of military occupation; and for the present it is ordered that the municipal laws such as affect private rights of persons and property, regulate local institutions, and provide for the punishment of crime, shall be considered as continuing in force, so far as compatible with the purposes of military government, and that they be administered through the ordinary tribunals substantially as before occupation, but by officials appointed by the government of occupation. IV. A Provost-Marshal-General will be appointed for the city of Manila and 160 THE ADMIXISTRATION OF GEXERAL MEERITT. 161 its outlying districts. This territory will be divided into sub-districts, and there will be assigned to each a Deputy-Provost-Marshal. The duties of the Provost-Marshal-General and his deputies will be set forth in detail in future orders. In a general way they are charged with the duty of making arrests of military, as well as civil offenders, sending such of the former class as are triable by courts-martial to their proper commands, with statements of their offenses and names of witnesses, and detaining in custody all other offenders for trial by military commission, provost courts, or native criminal courts, in accordance with law and the instructions hereafter to be issued. Y. The port of Manila, and all other ports and places in the Philippines which may be in the actual possession of our land and naval forces, will be open, while our military occupation may continue, to tJie commerce of all neutral nations as well as our own, in articles not contraband of war, and upon payment of the prescribed rates of duty which may be in force at the time of the importation. YI. All churches and places devoted to religious worship and to the arts and sciences, all educational institutions, libraries, scientific collections, and museums are, so far as possible, to be protected; and all destruction or intentional defacement of such places or property, of historical monuments, archives, or works of science and art, is prohibited, save when required by urgent military necessity. Severe punish- ment will be meted out for all violations of this regulation. The custodians of all property of the character mentioned in this section will make prompt returns thereof to these headquarters, stating character and location, and embodying such recommendations as they may think proper for the full protec- tion of the properties 'under their care and custody, that proper orders may issue enjoining the co-operation of both military and civil authorities in securing such protection. YII. The Commanding General, in announcing the establishment of military government, and in entering upon his duty as Military Governor in pursuance of his appointment as such by the government of the United States, desires to assure the people that so long as they preserve the peace and perform their duties toward the representatives of thf United States they will not be disturbed in their persons and property, except in so far as may be found necessary for the good of the service of the United States and the benefit of the people of the Phihppines. WESLEY MERRITT, Major-General, United States Army, Commanding. The general orders following are full of curious interest, as they declare the true 162 THE ADMINISTRATION OF GENERAL MEERITT. intent and meaning of the Philippine Expedition, and define the situation at Manila, with extraordinary precision, and are in the strictest sense by authority: HEADQUARTERS DEPARTMENT OF THE PACIFIC AND EIGHTH ARMY CORPS Manila Bay, August 9th, 1898. GENERAL ORDERS, No. 3. 1. In view of the extraordinary conditions under which this Army is operat- ing, the Commanding General desires to acquaint the officers and men composing it, with the expectations which 'he entertains as to their conduct. You are assembled upon foreign soil situated within the western confines of a vast ocean separating you from your native land. You have come not as despoilers and oppressors, but simply as the instruments of a strong free government, whose purposes are beneficent and which has declared itself in this war, the champion of those oppressed by Spanish misrule. It is therefore the intention of this order to appeal directly to your pride in your position as representatives of a high civilization, in the hope and with the firm conviction that you will so conduct yourselves in your relations with the inhabi- tants of these islands, as to convince them of the lofty nature of the mission which you come to execute. It is not believed that any acts of pillage, rapine, or violence will be committed by soldiers or other in the employ of the United States, but should there be persons with this command who prove themselves unworthy of this confidence, their acts will be considered not only as crimes against the sufferers, but as direct insults to the United States flag, and they will be punished on the spot with the maximum penalties known to military law. By Command of Major-General Merritt: J. B. BABCOCK, Ad j utant- General . Official: BENTLEY MOTT, Aid. HEADQUARTERS DEPARTMENT OF THE PACISIC AND EIGHTH ARMY CORPS. Manila, P. I., August 15th, 1898. GENERAL ORDERS, No. 4. 1. In addition to his duties as Division Commander, Brigadier-General T. M. THE ADMINISTRATION OF GENERAL MERRITT: 168 Anderson, U. S. Vols., is hereby assigned to the command of the District of Cavite and will remove his headquarters to that point. The garrison of the District of Cavite will be augmented upon the arrival of the next transports containing troops for this command. 2. In addition to his duties as Brigade Commander, Brigadier-General Arthur MacArthur, U. S. Vols., is hereby appointed Military Commandant of the walled city of Manila, and Provost-Marshal-General of the City of Manila, including all the outlying districts within the municipal jurisdiction. General MacArthur will remove his headquarters within the walled city and will bring with him one strong regiment of his command to take station within the walled town. The Commanding Officer of the 2nd Oregon Vol. Inf., now stationed in the walled city, will report to General MacArthur, and the Companies of the 2nd Oregon Vol. Inf., now at Cavite, will, upon being relieved by other troops, be sent to Manila to join the regiment. Gen- eral Macilrthur will relieve the Civil Governor of his functions, and take possession of the offices, clerks and all machinery of administration of that office, retaining and employing the present subordinate officers of civil adminisfration until, in his judg- ment, it is desirable to replace them by other appointments. 3. Colonel James S. Smith, 1st California Vol. Inf., in addition to his duties as Remimental Commander, is appointed Deputy Provost-Marshal for the Districts of the city north of the Pasig River, and will report to General MacArthur. Colonel S. Ovenshine, 23rd U. S. Inf., is appointed Deputy Provost-Marshal for the dis- tricts of the cit}^, including Ermita and Malate, outside of the walled town and south of the Pasig River, and will report to General MacArthur. 4. Under paragraphs ''3" and "4" of the terms of capitulation, full lists of pub- lic property and stores, and returns in duplicate of the men by organizations, are to be rendered to the United States within ten days, and public horses and public property of all kinds are to be turned over to the staff officers of the United States designated to receive them. Under these paragraphs the Chiei of Artillery at these headquarters, and the Chiefs of the Staff Departments, will take possession of the public property turned over as above, pertaining to their respective departments. The returns of the prisoners will be submitted to the Mihtary Commandant of the City, who will assign the men for quarters in such public buildings and bar- racks as are not required for the use of United States troops. The horses and privai? property of the officers of the Spanish forces are not to be disturbed. The Chief Paymaster at these headquarters Avill turn over such portion of the Spanish public funds received by him, by virtue of this order, to the administration of his office. 5. All removals and appointments of subordinate officers of civil administrntion, lU THE ADMINISTEATION OF GENEEAL MEEEITT. and transfers of funds anthorized by this order, must receive the approval of the Commanding General, before action is taken. 6. The Chief Quartermaster and Chief Commissary of Subsistence at these headquarters will establish depots of supply in Manila with as little delay as possible. Quartermaster and Subsistence depots will also be retained at Cavite. By Command of Major-General Merritt: J. B. BABCOCK, Adjutant-General. Official: BENTLEY MOTT, Aid. HEADQUA'ETEES DEPAETMENT OF THE PACIFIC AND EIGHTH AEMY COEPS. Manila, P. L, August 17th, 1898. GEjSTEEAL oedees :ko. 5. 1. In addition to the command of his Brigade, Brigadier-General F. Y. Greene^ U. S. Yols., will perform the duties hitherto performed by the Intendente General de Hacienda, and will have charge, subject to instructions of the Major General Com- manding, of all fiscal affairs of the Government of Manila. 2. Lieutenant-Colonel C. A. Whittier, U. S. Yols., is appointed Collector of Customs, and the Chief Paymaster, Department of the Pacific, will designate a bonded officer of the Pay Department as custodian of alh public funds. Both of these officers will report to Brigadier-General Greene for instructions. By Command of Major-General Merritt: J. B. BABCOCK, Adjutant-Genera] , Official: BENTLEY MOTT, Aid. HEADQUAETEES DEPAETMENT OF THE PACIFIC AND EIGHTH AEMY COEPS. Manila, P. I., August ITth, 1898. GENEEAL OEDEES, No. 6. The Major-General Commanding desires to congratulate the troops of this com- mand upon their brilliant success in the capture, by assault, of the defenses of Ma- THE ADMIXISTEATIOX OF GEXERAL MERRITT. 165 nil a. on Saturday, August 13, a date hereafter to be memorable in the history of xlmerican yictories. After a journey of seven thousand miles by sea, the soldiers of the Philippine Expedition encountered most serious difficulties in landing, due to protracted storms raising high surf, through which it was necessary to pass the small boats which afforded the only means of disembarking the army and its supplies. This great task, and the privations and hardships of a campaign during the' rainy season in tropical lowlands, were accomplished and endured by all the troops, in a spirit of soldierly fortitude, which has at all times during these days of trial, given the Commanding General the most heartfelt pride and confidence in his men. Xothing could be finer than the patient, uncomplaining devotion to duty which all have shown. Xow it is his pleasure to announce that within three weeks after the arrival in the Philippines of the greater portion of the forces, the capital city of the Spanish possessions in the East, held by Spanish veterans, has fallen into our hands, and he feels assured that all officers and men of this command have reason to be proud of the success of the expedition. The Commanding General will hereafter take occasion to mention to the Home Government, the names of officers, men and organizations, to whom special credit is due. By Command of Major-General Merritt: J. B. BABCOCK, Adjutant-General Official: BEXTLEY MOTT, Aid. HEADQUAETEES OF THE PEOVOST-MAESHAL-GEXEEAL AXD MILITAEY COMMAXDAXT. Citv of Manila. P. I.. August 18th, 1898. GEXEEAL OEDEES, XO. 1. 1. In obedience to the provisions of General Orders, Xo. 3, dated Headquarters Department of the Pacific and Eighth Army Corps, Manila, P. I., August loth, 1898, the undersigned hereby assumes the office and duties of Military Commandant of the walled city of Manila; Provost-Marshal-General of the city of Manila, including the outlying districts within the municipal jurisdiction, and also the functions of Civil Governor. 2. Until further orders the preservation of law and order throughout the city will be maintained accordins: to the arransfements which now obtain. 166 THE ADMINISTEATIO^ OF GENERAL MEEEITT. 3. The location of these Headquarters will be at the office of the Civil Governor, corner of San Juan de Letran and Anda Streets, and to the above address will be referred all jDapers requiring action by the undersigned. To insure prompt investiga- tion, all claims, complaints, and petitions should be presented in the Enghsh lan- guage. 4. Major Harry C. Hale, xlssistant Adjutant-General U. S. Volunteers; aide de owder magazine^ with its inner space well protected, and an abundant well of fresh water; also quarters for soldiers and artillerymen and a house for the Commandant. It is newly fortified on the land side, in the place of arms, where the entrance is through a good vfall, and two salient towers furnished with artillery which command the wall and gate. This fortress named Santiago, has a detachment of thirty soldiers, with their officers, and eight artiller3^men, who guard the gate and entrance in watches, under the command of an alcalde who lives within, and has the guard and custody of it. "There is another fortress, also of stone, in the same wall, at the ditance of the rang'e of a culverin, at the end of the wall which runs along the shore of the bay; this is named iNuestra Senora de Guia; it is a very large round block, with its court- yard, Avater and quarters, and magazines and other workshops within; it has an out- work jutting out towards the beach, in which there are a dozen of large and middle- sized guns, which command the bay, and sweep the walls which run from it to the port and fort of Santiago. On the further side it has a large salient tower with four heavy pieces, which command the beach further on, towards the chapel of Nuestra Senora de Guia. The gate and entrance of this is within the city, it is guarded by a detachment of twenty soldiers, with their officers, and six artillery- men, a commandant, and his lieutenant, who dwell within. "On the land side, where the wall extends, there is a bastion called Sant Andres, with six pieces of artillery, which can fire in all directions, and a few swivel guns; and further on another outwork called San Gabriel, opposite the parian of the Sangleys, with the same number of cannon, and both these works have some soldiers and an ordinary guard. "The wall is sufficiently high, with battlements and turrets for its defense in the modern fashions; they have a circuit of a league, which may be traversed on the top of the walls, with many stairs on the inside at intervals, of the same stone- work, and three principal city gates, and many other posterns to the river and beach for the service of the city in convenient places. , All of these gates are shut before nightfall by the ordinary patrol, and the keys are carried to the guard-room of the royal buildings; and in the morning, when it is day, the patrol returns with them and opens the city. "The royal magazines are in the parade; in them are deposited and kept all the munitions and supplies, cordage, iron, copper, lead, artillery, arquebuses, and other things belonging to the royal treasury, with their special officials and work- men, who are under the command of the royal officers. DISPLAY IN MANILA PHOTOGRAPH GALLERY. INSURGENT LEADERS. GROUP OF FILIPINOS WHO WANT INDEPE>fDENCE. EARLY HISTOEY OF THE PHILIPPINES. 275 ^^Closc to these magazines is the powder magazine, with its master, officials, and convicts, in which, on ordinary occasions, thirty mortars grind powder, and that which is damaged is refined. "In another part of the city, in a convenient situation, is the cannon foundry, with its moulds, furnaces, and instrument founders, and w^orkmen, who carry on the works. "The royal buildings are very handsome, with a good view, and very roomy, with many windows opening seaward and to the parade; they are all of hewn stone, with two courts and high and low corridors with thick pillars." The city of to-day verifies the descriptive talent and accuracy of this writer. CHAPTEE XYIII. THE SOUTHEEN PHILIPPmES. Important Facts About the Lesser Islands of the Philippine Archipelago— Loca- tion^ Size and Population — Capitals and Principal Cities — Elvers and Harbors — Surface and Soil — People and Products — Leading Industries — Their Com- merce and Business Affairs — The Monsoons and Typhoons — The Terrors of the Tempests and How to Avoid Them. The island and province of Mindoro lies in the strait of its name and south of Luzon. It has in the center an elevated plain, we quote from the military notes issued by the War Department, from which many sierras extend in different directions to the coast, making the latter rugged and dangerous. The island is of an oval form, with a prolongation of the northern portion toward the west. Though an easy day's sail from Manila, it is one of the least populous islands of the archipelago, being extremely mountainous, covered with dense forests, and in the more level parts near the coast full of marshes, and very unhealthful. The inhabi- tants of the coast are Tagals, but in the interior there is a low tribe of the Malayan race, probably the indigenes of the island, and called Manguianos, speak- ing a peculiar language and living in a very miserable manner on the products of a rude agriculture. There are also said to be some Negritos, but of these very little is known. There are many short streams. The island is 110 miles long and has an area of 3,087 square miles. The population is 106,170. There is little known of the mountains of the interior, as the inhabitants dwell mainly on the coasts. Mindoro constitutes one of the provinces of the Philippines under an alcalde. The capital is Calapan, with a population of 5,585. It is situated to the north, on the harbor of its name, defended by a fort of regular construction; it has about 500 houses, among the notable stone ones being the parish, court house and jail, and casa real. It is the rsidence of the alcalde mayor and several public function^ aries. The city is situated 96 miles from Manila. Mount Kalavite is a long-backed promontory, the western slope of which forms Cape Kalavite, and the northern slope Point del Monte; the summit, about 2,000 feet high, appears dome-shaped when seen from the west, but from the north or south it shows a long ridge fairly level; the western end of this ridge is the highest part. The capital of the province, Calapan, is a coast town. The inhabitants are occu- 276 THE SOUTHERN PHILIPPIXES. 277 pied in hunting, fishing, and ordinal}- weaving. The commerce is insignificant. Sand banks extend in front of the town to a distance of one-half mile. To clear these, the northern Silonai islet should not be shut out b}^ Point Calapan. On this line, near the north edge of the banks, the soundings are 36 to 46 fathoms. The Semirara Islands form a group of eight islands, all surrounded by reefs. Semirara, the largest of the group, is hilly, about 512 feet high at the highest part. The west coast includes several little bays almost entirely obstructed by reefs, on the edge of which are depths of 4| to 13 fathoms; and off the town of Semirara, which stands on the top of the hill facing the largest bay, the anchorage is very bad, even for coasters. The east coast is bordered by a reef, which extends about a mile from the northeast part of the island; on coming from the north this coast of the island must not be approached within three miles until the town of Semirara bears full west. There is anchorage at the south of the island in 5 to 8 fathoms, sand, dur- ing the northeast monsoon. Good coal for steaming purposes was found on the island by Captain Yillavicencio, of the Spanish navy. Tablas Island is mountainous, and on its northern extremity is the peak Cabezo de Tablas, 2,405 feet high; generally the coasts are clear and steep-to. Ofi the north end are two rocky islets, distant one cable from the coast; the larger one is clear and steep, the smaller one has rocks around it. The west coast of Mindoro Island has no soundings oif it excepting in the bays, or wdthin one or two miles of the shore in some places. In the interior double and treble chains of mountains extend through the island, and some low points of land project from them into the sea. Paluan Bay affords excellent shelter in the northeast monsoon, and is also a con- venient place for vessels to obtain supplies when passing through Mindoro Strait. The bay is five miles wide at the entrance, of a semi-circular form, running back three miles in a northerly direction. There are no dangers in it. A small river disembogues where good water can be obtained with facility; and on the beach there is plenty of driftwood. The coral projects one-half mile from the entrance of the river, and has 10 and 12 fathoms close to its edge. Care must be taken when working into Paluan Bay, for the squalls come violently off the high land, and very sudden, and at night do not give the least warning. The Calamianes are a group of high islands lying between the northeast end of Palawan and Mindoro, and extending between the parallels of 11 degrees 39 min- utes and 12 degrees 20 minutes N., and the meridians of 119 degrees 47 minutes and 120 degrees 23 minutes E. Busuanga, the largest island of the group, is about 34 278 THE SOUTHEEN PHILIPPI^^ES. miles in extent NW. by W. and SE. b}^ E., and 18 miles broad. It is very irregular in form^ being indented with numerous deep bays. The islands and reefs which front its northeast side form the western side of Northumberland Strait. These islands form, with the northern part of Palawan and the Cuyos Islands, a province, the capital of which is at Port Tai Tai. The climate of these islands is in general hot and unhealthful. Intermittent fevers and cutaneous diseases prevail, attributable, in all probability, to the great moisture and the insalubrious quality of the drinking water. All these islands are, generally speaking, hilly and broken. The industry of the locality is in collecting Salanganes (edible birds' nests), honey, and wax; but cultivation is not practiced to any great extent. The forests produce good timber for building or cabinet work. Tara Island, when seen from the northward, shows a triple summit to its north- west end; while its southern part looks like a separate island, saddle-shaped. The island does not appear to be permanently inhabited; in March, 1885, it was occupied by parties from Busuanga, burning the grass and digging cassava. Lagat is a small island 334 feet high, surrounded by a reef with a narrow passage between it and the reef off the south of Tara. Botak Island, 800 feet high, is fairly well cultivated. Off its northern end there is a queer pin-shaped rock, and off its southern end are same sharp-pointed rocks. The vicinity has net been sounded. The space included between the Sulu Archipelago to the south and Mindoro to the north, and having the Phihppine Islands on the east and Palawan on the west, is distinguished by the name of the Sulu Sea. Although of great depth, 2,550 fath- oms, this sea, which is in connection with the China and Celebes seas, and also with the Pacific by San Bernardino and Surigao straits, has a minimum deep-sea tem- perature of 50.5 degrees, reached invariably at 400 fathoms. As this temperature in the China Sea is at the depth of 200 fathoms, and in the Celebes Sea at 180 fathoms, and in the Pacific at 230. fathoms, it may be inferred that the Sulu Sea is prevented from freely interchanging its w^aters with those seas by ridges which do not exceed those depths. In the Sulu Sea easterly winds with fine weather prevail in October, and the northeast monsoon is not established imtil N'ovember. In January and February it blows hardest, but not with the force of the China seas, and it is felt strongest before the openings between Panay and Negros, and Negros and Mindanao. At the end of May southwest winds begin to blow, and in a month become established, to terminate in October, bringing with them a season made up of rain squalls and tem- THE SOUTHERN PHILIPPINES. 279 pests, which take place principally in July and August. In September a heavy mi^t hangs about the coast of Mindanao. The island and province of Paragua is the most western of the Philippine Archi- pelago, and is situated to the north of Borneo. It is long and narrow, following a northeast direction, and nearly closes on the southwest the Sea of Mindanao, which -enters from the China Sea by Balabac Strait on the south and between Mindoro and Paragua on the north. A chain of high mountains, some 6,560 feet high, runs length- wise of the narrow belt formed by the island, whose length is 266 miles. The north- west and northeast slopes are narroAv. The island has extensive and well protected harbors and bays. The area is 2,315 square miles and the population 45,000. The capital is Puerto Princesa, with a population of 1,589. Panay is divided into three provinces, viz: Capiz to the north, Iloilo to the south- east, and Antique to the southwest. In general it is wild, with very high coasts, ex- cept in the northeastern part, where the latter are somewhat marshy. A mountain chain crosses the island from Point Juraojurao on the south as far as Point Potol on the north, following a direction almost parallel to the western coast. Large groups of sierras branch out to the right and left of the central chain; on the eastern slope begins another chain, running northeast to the extreme northeasterly point of the islando Owing to its cragginess, it has a great number of streams running in different directions. The area is 4,540 square miles. The town of Iloilo stands on a low sandy fiat on the right bank of a river; at the end of this flat is a spit on which a fort is built, and close to which there is deep water. Vessels of moderate draft (15 feet) can ascend the river a short distance and lie alongside wharves which communicate with the merchant houses, but large vessels must anchor outside near the spit. It is a town of great commercial impor- tance, and a brisk coasting trade is carried on from it. The better class of houses in Iloilo are built on strong wooden posts, 2 or 3 feet in diameter, that reach to the roof; stone walls to the first floor, with wooden windows above, and an iron roof. The poorer class of dwellings are flimsy erections of nipa, built on four strong post;. The roads and bridges are in a deplorable condition and almost impassable in the rainy season. The chief imports are Australian coal, and general merchandise from Europe, but most sailing ships arrive in ballast. The exports are sugar, tobacco, rice, coffee, hides, and hemp; it is also the prin- cipal place of manufacture of pina, juse, and sinamoya, a tissue greatly in use among the Philippines. In 1883, 93,750 ton^ of sugar were exported, principally to America. 280 THE SOUTHEEN PHILIPPINES. Typhoons do not occur regularly, but in most years the tail of one passes over the place, which suffers also from the visitations of locusts. Provisions of all kinds can be obtained, but the prices are higher than at Manila. In 1886 beef was 12^ cents per pound, bread 11 cents, vegetables 11 cents, fowls $2 per dozen. Water is scarce and is brought across from Guimaras in tank boats; it is supphed to the shipping at the rate of $1 per ton; the Europeans depend mainly upon rain water. There are generally about 500 tons of coal in store, chiefly Australian; it is kept for the supply of local steamers that take in what they require alongside the wharves.. Vessels in the roads can have it brought off in bulk in lighters or schooners at a co"st of 50 cents a ton. Coolies can be hired at 75 cents per ton, but they will not coal vessels if they can get other work. Notice is required the day before coalings as men are not kept in readiness. The price of coal in 1886 was $11.00 per ton. There is regular weekly communication with Manila, which is 250 miles distant. The Province of Capiz is bounded on the north by the Archipelago Sea, on the east by the District of Concepcion, on the south by the ridge separating it from Iloilo, and on the southwest by the mountains, separating it from the Province of Antique. Its very high mountains are covered with luxuriant vege- tation, and give rise to many rivers which water the valleys of the province. There are gold and copper mines, and much tobacco, sugar, rice, and abaca is raised. Dur- ing the year three fairs are held, in which articles of the country are bartered. The province is divided into two parts, called Ilaya and Aclan, which are irrigated by the rivers Panay and Adan, respectively. The area is 1,543 square miles and the population 189,171, distributed among 36 pueblos and 287 barrios. The capital is Capiz, with a population of 13,676. It is situated 290 miles from Manila. It has a harbor for vessels of ordinary draft, and highroads to Iloilo, Antique, and the. District of Concepcion. There is a steamer kept by the state, stop- ping at the harbor every 28 days and keeping up communication with Manila, Romblon, Iloilo, and Cebu. • The Province of Iloilo is to the southeast of the Province of Capiz and west of Antique. The ground is generally level, and, being irrigated by numerous rivers^ is fertile, so that tobacco, cacao, sugar cane, abaca, rice, and maize are grown; be- sides, there is good pasturage for raising herds of cattle and horses, and gold and other mines are known. The principal industry is the manufacture of fabrics of sinamay, pina, jusi, etc., requiring over 30,000 looms. The dimensions are 99 miles in length by 27 miles in width, and the population is 472,728. THE SOUTIILEN rJlILlPPlXES. 281 The capital is Iloilo, with a population of 10,380. It i.< situate.] 3-35 niilc,^ from Manila, and is the residence of the governor, captain of port, and a nuniLer of treasury, justice, and fomento officials. It has a pretty cathedral, a seminary, casa real, and court house. It is one of the most mercantile towns of the Visaya group, and has some industries, among which are a machine shop and foundry, a carriage factory, and a hat factory. The Province of Bohol is bounded on the north by the sea between Cebu and Lejte, on the east by the Surigao Sea, on the south by the Sea of Mindanao, and on the west by the channel separating it from Cebu. The province is composed of the islands of Bohol and Dauis. They are somewhat mountainous and well wooded, and coffee, abaca, sugar- cane, and tobacco are raised. In the mountains of Bohol game is plenty, and many coal and phosphate of iron mines are supposed to exist. Manu- factures consist in fabrics of sinamay and other materials. The area is 1,617 square miles and the population 247,745. The capital is Tagbilaran, with a population of 8,638. It is situated 365 miles from Manila. The island and province of Cebu are the most important of the Yisaj'as, on account of the central position, nature of the soil, and the industry of its numerous inhabitants. It is bounded on the north by the sea separating it from Masbate and Leyte, on the east by the sea separating it from Leyte and Bohol, on the south by the Mindanao Sea, and on the w^est by the Tanon Channel and the island of }^egros. The area is 2,092 square miles and the population 504,076. Great mountain chains cross the island; the chief of these starts at the extreme north between Point Marab on the west and Baluarte on the east, and, continuing south between the two coasts, ends almost in the center of the island. Two other chains run along the coast, and one starts near Carcas, to the southwest of the city of Cebu, terminating on the south in Tanon Point. The coasts are high and the rivers of little importance. The capital is Cebu, with a population of 35,243. It is the mercantile center of the islands, and is situated 460 miles from Manila. It is an Episcopal see, and has a good cathedral, Episcopal palace, casa real, court house, and private edifices, simple biftfc tasty; there is also a postoffice and telegraph station. On the south, and at the en- trance of the channel, is the castle of Point Cauit, and north of this the tower of Mas- daui; both these fortifications communicate with the capital by means of a wagon road, the city being midway between them. At the capital reside the politico- military governor, a secretary, judge and attorney-general, a number of public func- tionaries, a captain of engineers, and the captain of the port. 282 THE SOUTHEEX PHILIPPIXES. Maktan Island consists of an old coral reef^ raised a few feet (8 or 10 at most) above the present sea level. At the northern part of the island^ vrhcre a convent stands, a low cliff fringes the shore, being an npper stratnm of the npheaved reef, The raised reef is here preserved, but over the portion of the island immediately fronting Cebn it has been removed by denudation, with the exception of a few pillar- Jike blocks which remain, and which are conspicuous from the anchorage. The surface is scooped out into irregular basins and sharp projecting pinnacles and cov- ered in all directions with mud, resulting from the denudation. Xearly all the island is covered by mangroves, but on the part left dry there are plantations of cocoanuts. The only town on the island is Opon, on the west coast, SW. of Mandaui Point in Cebu. It was here that Magellan was killed in 1521, after making the first passage across the Pacific. The town of Cebu is the most ancient in the Philippines; it is the seat of govern- ment of the Yisayan Islands, which include Cebu, Bohol, Panay, Xegros, and Leyte, and it is the residence of a bishop. It is built on a large plain at the foot of the chain of hills that traverse the island throughout its length, and is a well-constructed, thriving place; the merchants' quarter is situated along the port, and includes some well-built stone houses, though many are of old construction. The huts of the Malays, for the most part fishermen, are on the beach, and form the west part of the city. The fort is a triangular edifice of stone, painted red, with an open scjuare in front. The island of 'Leyte is bounded on the north by the canal separating it from Samar, on the east by the Pacific Ocean, on the west by the sea separating it from Bohol and Cebu, and on the south by the one separating it from Z\Iindanao. It is extensive and irregular, having an area of 3,087 square miles and a population of 210,491. A high and abrupt mountain chain crosses the island nearly parallel to the west coast; the coasts are high, with good natural harbors. In the northern part and on the western slopes of the great sierras, streams of potable water and also many lagoons abound. This is different from the eastern part, where the latter are scarce. The principal product of the island is abaca, but rice is also raised and co- coanut oil is extracted. There are unworked mines of gold, magnetite, and sulphur. The capital is Tacloban, with a population of 5,226. It is situated 338 miles from Manila. Among the important towns are Baru, population 12,222; Borauen, 21,290; Canyaia, 13,732; Dagami, 25,000; Hilongos, 13,713; Jaio, 12,475; Massiii, 18,499; Palo, 17,736; Tauauau, 18,509. The island of Xegros is mountainous and wild; its coasts are difficult of access, and the breakers strong, except on the west coast from Point Bulucabo on the north THE SOUTHERN rillLIPPlNES. 2S3 of Palompon on the west, where it is marshy. A high mountain chain crosses it from Point Doong on the north to the Iiarbor and point Bombonon on the south; from the last third extend several ramifications of high mountains, terminating on the coast at the extreme south and in the Sierra Dumaguete. Its streams are not important, being short and of little value. The ground is uneven but fertile. The natives irrigate their estates, and produce tobacco, coffee, sugar cane, and wheat. Manufactures consist in fabrics of abaca and canonegro, of which boat cables are made. The interior of the island, covered with thick forests, is almost unexplored, being inhabited by a few savages. The Province of Western Negros is situated on Negros Island, it is bounded on the north b}- the Yisayas Sea, on the west by the Paragua Sea, and on the south and east by the Province of Eastern Negros. The area is 1,929 square miles, and the population 226,995. The capital is Bacolod, Avith a population of 6,268. It is the residence of the politico-miHtary governor, the secretary, judge, attorney-general, and several pubhc functionaries. It is situated 379 miles from Manila. The Province of Kegros has a population of 9-1,782— the capital, Dumaguete, 13,613. The Province of Romblon consists of the following six islands: Eomblon (the principal one), Tablas, Sibuyan, Banton, Simara, and Maestre Campo. It is bounded on the north by the Tayabas Sea, on the south by the Yisayas Sea, on the east by the Sea of Masbate, and on the west by the Sea of Mindoro. The area is 813 square miles, and the population 38,633, distributed among 13 barrios and 3 rancherias of infieles. The capital is Eomblon, with a population of 6,761. It is situated on the harbor of the same name at the north of the island, 201 miles from Manila, and is the resi- dence of the politico-military commander. The Island and Province of Samar is situated to the southeast of Luzon, it is bounded on the north by the Strait of San Bernardino, on the south by the Jaha- netes Canal, separating it from Leyte Island, on the east by the Pacific Ocean, and on the west by the Visayas Sea. It is very mountainous, with high, steep coasts. A number of sierras and mountains extend in various directions, forming valleys and glens fertilized by numerous rivers, which, however, have little current and volume. The length of the island is 155 miles. The chief products are abaca, rice, and cocoa- nuts, oil being extracted from the latter. Among the medicinal plants the moit 284 THE SOUTHERN PHILIPPINES. highly valued is the catbalonga seed. Commerce is quite active in spite of the few inearLS of communication and the dangerous coasts. The island is visited yearly by tornadoes which devastate crops and cause much damage to agriculture. The high mountains and thick forests of the interior are inhabited by a great number of ravages who have sought refuge here. The area is 4,699 square miles, and the pop- ulation 200,753, distributed among 43 pueblos, 208 visitas, and 3 rancherias of sub- dued infieles. The capital is Catbalogan, population of 6,459, situated on the harbor and bay of like name on the west of the island 338 miles from Manila, and is the residence of the politico-military governor. The Jolo Archipelago, formed of some 160 islands, is situated southwest of Mindanao and south of Basilan. It is bounded on the south by the Jolo Sea, on the northeast by Mindanao and on the west and southwest by Borneo. The small islands are covered with mangroves, while the large ones have thick forests of good timber, and the natives raise rice, maize, and various alimentary roots, ambergris being found on the coasts. The principal island, called Sulu, or Jolo (ch. 47, 48, 49, 50, p. 285), is occupied in a military way by the Spanish forces, whose chief, or gov- ernor, resides in the old capital, which has well-constructed and armed forts, a pier, etc. By royal decree of November 13, 1877, the sultanship was transformed into a civico-military government. The population consists of 500 aborigines, 612 Chinese traders, and 16,000 negroes. Next to Luzon, the island of Mindanao is the most extensive and important of the Philippines. By decree of July 30, 1860, the territorial division of this island was definitely established, and a civico-military government, under the denomination of Mindanao and adjacent islands, was created. It is divided into eight districts. The island is situated between Visayas on the north and Borneo on the south; it is bounded on the east by the Pacific Ocean, and on the west by the island of Paragua, the Strait of Balabac, and Borneo. The area is 16,595 square miles, and the population 611,300, of which 211,000 are Christians and the rest Mohammedans and Pagans. It is very extensive and irregular in form, possessing high and extended mountain chains, which have not been entirely explored, and which are grown over with very rich woods. It is inhabited almost throughout the interior by savages. Its rivers, some of great volume, are as follows: On the north coast and Butuan Bay, the Jabonga and Butuan; on the Macajalar coast, the Cagayan; in Eligan Bay, the Malanao and others of minor importance; in the cove of Dapitan, the Palaven. THE SOUTHEK:^ PIIlLlPPiXES. 285 In Port Kakule the greatest rise of tide is seven feet. In Surigao Strait the flood tide sets to the west, and the ebb to the east. The velocity of the stream in the strait reaches six knots at springs. There is a difference of about two hours between the time of high water at Surigao and in Surigao Strait. Fishermen roughly esti- mate that when the moon rises the ebb tide commences to run in Surigao Strait. From January to June there is but one high water during the twenty-four hours, in Surigao Strait, which occurs during the night. From July to December the same phenomenon takes place, but the time of high water is by day. From observations made by the Spanish surveyors, it appears that the highest tide on the west coasts of the islands of the strait takes place at the same hour as the lowest tide on the east coasts. The Mindanao river disembogues five miles to the south of Palak Harbor by two wide arms, on the northernmost of which is the town of Kota-batu, about 5J miles from the mouth. The river is navigable for 60 miles by vessels of 3 J feet draught: it flows through a beautiful valley 30 miles in width, which scarcely shows any change of level; the valley is capable of producing tobacco, cacao, sugar, maize, and cotton; but this is only known at present by specimens produced. The course of the river lies SE. for 45 miles from its mouth to the lake Ligauasan, out of which it is seen to flow; from the other side of the lake the direction of the river is N^NE. to its source in the Sugut Mountains. At 21 miles from the northern mouth the river divides into two arms, which enter the sea 4J miles apart. In the northern part of Mindanao is the province of Surigao, bordered on the north by the Surigao Sea, on the east by the Pacific, on the south by the District of Davao, and on the west by the territory of the infieles. It is mountainous, but the Christian population resides on the coasts and in the northern point of the terri- tory. The population is 95,775, distributed among 45 pueblos, 10 barrios, and 30 rancherias of subdued infieles. Abaca and palay are raised, and in the gold washings considerable gold of good quality is found. Military notes on the Philippines affirm that the islands are, in many respects, Spain's best possessions, due to the abundance and variety of products, numerous and good ports, character of inhabitants, and on account of the vicinity of certain countries of eastern Asia, which are now entering upon a stage of civilization and commerce. The group is composed of some 2,000 islands. In 1762 Manila was taken and held by the English for a ransom of 1,000,000 pounds sterling. This, however, was never paid, and the islands were finally returned to Spain. The archipelago extends from 5 degrees 32 minutes to 19 degrees 38 minutes, 286 THE SOUTHEEN PHILIPPINES. north latitude, and from 117 degrees to 126 degrees, east longitude. It tlius covers about 1,000 miles north and south and 600 east and west. The whole surface of the Philippines is essentially mountainous, the only plains that occur being alluvial districts at the river mouths and the spaces left by the intersection of the ranges. The principal ranges have a tendency to run north and south, with a certain amount of deflection east and west, as the case may be,, so that the orographic diagram of the archipelago, as a whole, has a similarity to a fan, with northern Luzon as its center of radiation. While none of the mountain peaks greatly exceed 8,000 feet in height, Apo, in Mindanao, is over 9,000 feet; Halson, in Mindoro, is aver 8,900 feet; and Mayon, in Luzon, over 8,200. The latter is an active volcano, which has been the scene of several eruptions during the present century. Extinct or active craters are relatively as numerous in the Philippines as in the eastern archipelago, and as a consequence of these subterranean forces earthquakes are frequent and violent. In 1627 one of the most elevated mountains of Cagayan disappeared, and on the island of Mindanao, in 1675, a passage was opened to the sea and a vast plain emerged. The more recent of the convulsions occurred in 1863 and in 1880. The destruction of property was great, especially in Manila. The general belief is that the Philippines once formed a part of an enormous continent from which it was separated by some cataclysm. This continent probably extended from Celebes to the farthest Polinesian islands on the east, to New Zealand on the south, and the Mariana and Sandwich islands on the north. These islands, according to Eamon Jordana, are divided into two volcanic re- gions, the eastern and the western. The principal point is the volcano Taal, located in the northeastern portion of the province of Batangas. It is situated on a small island in the center of the Bombon laguna, and has an altitude of 550 feet above sea level. Its form is conical, and the rock is composed of basalt feldspar with a small quantity of augite. The crater is supposed to be 232 feet deep. Its sides are almost vertical, and there are two steaming lagunas at its bottom. In the regions embracing the provinces of Manila, Bulacan, Pampanga, Tarlac, and Pangasinan the soil is mostly composed of clay containing remnants of sea shells, a circumstance which gives rise to the belief that the coast of Manila has risen from the sea in not so remote an epoch. Smooth, dark gray tophus predominates; it forms the bed of the Eio Pasig, and rising forms hillocks in the vicinity of the city of Binangonan. Farther on, trachyte and banks of conchiferous sand predominate. THE SOUTHERX PHILimXKS. £87 The vast plain of Panpanga extends to the north of Manila Bay^ to the south of which is situated Mount Arayat, of doleritic nature. The disposition of the mountain ranges in parallel chains affords space for the- development of streams both in Luzon and Mindanao. The larger islands contain inland seas, into which pour countless small streams from the inland hills. Many of them open out into broad estuaries, and in numerous instances coasting vessels of light draft can sail to the very foot of the mountains. Elvers and inland lake& swarm with varieties of fish and shellfish. By reason of Spanish restrictions, but little- can be said as to the character of the stream banks and beds. Four of the rivers are navigable, and, by the statements of those who have spent some little time on the islands, most are fordable. Drinking water is obtained by many of the towns from the rivers at points just above tide limits, and the water is said to be good. Bridges are few and crude, but are generally built to withstand heavy strain. The island of Luzon abounds in rivers and streams. The following are the prin- cipal water courses: Eio Grande de Cagayan, the source of which is in the northern slope of the Cara- ballo I^orte. It has numerous afiiuents, among others the Magat and Bangag, and^ after a course of about 200 miles, falls into the China Sea in the vicinity of AparrL Agno Grande starts in the north, in the neighborhood of the ranch of Loo, re- ceives the affluents Tarlag and Camiling, as well as many others, has a course of about 112 miles, and falls into the Gulf of Lingayen. Abra has its origin on the opposite slope to that where Agno Grande takes its rise; runs for about 87 miles, and, after receiving the affluent Suyoc, divides into three arms and falls into the China Sea over the sand bars of Butao, Xioig, and Dile. Eio Grande de la Pampanga is called Eio Chico up to the lake of Canasen, near Arayat, where it changes its name after its junction with Eio Gapan. Its course is a Httle over 38 miles; it receives the Eio de San Jose and divides into a multitude of arms as it falls into the sea to the north of Manila Bay. Eio Pasig has its source in the Bay Lagoon, and falls after a course of 19 miles into Manila Bay. The military notes on the climate of the Philippines, the official record of the temperature and the gales and typhoons, and directions regarding the handling of ships in the peculiar tempests that prevail at certain seasons around the islands, are of absorbing popular interest, and of striking special usefulness. Climate.— In the region of Manila the hottest season is from March to June, the greatest heat being felt in May before the rains set in, when the maximum tempera- 288 THE SOUTHEEN PHILIPPINES. ture ranges from 80 degrees to 100 degrees in the shade. The coolest weather occurs in December and January, when the temperature falls at night to 60 or 65 degrees, and seldom rises in the day above 75 degrees. From November to February the sky is bright, the atmosphere cool and dry, and the weather in every way delightful. Ob- servations m.ade at the Observatortio Meteorologico de Manila have been compiled by the United States Weather Bureau, covering a record of from seventeen to thirty-two years, from which the following is an extract: Temperature, degrees F.: . Mean annual 80 degrees Warmest month 82 degrees Coolest month 79 degrees Highest 100 degrees Lowest 60 degrees Humidity: Eelative per cent 78 Absolute grains per cubic foot 8.75 Wind movements in miles: Daily mean. 134 Greatest daily 204 Least daily 95 Prevailing wind direction — NE., November to April; SW., May to October. Cloudiness, annual per cent 53 Days with rain 135 Eainfall in inches: Mean annual ." 75.43 Greatest monthly 120.98 • Least monthly 55.65 The following is the mean temperature for the three seasons, at points specified: Cold. Hot. Wet. Manila 72 degrees 87 degrees 84 degrees Cebu 75 degrees 86 degrees 75 degrees Davao 86 degrees 88 degrees 87 degrees Sulu 81 degrees 82 degrees 83 degrees Seasons vary with the prevailing winds (monsoons or trade winds) and are classed as ^Vef and "dry.'' There is no abrupt change from one to the other, and between periods there are intervals of variable weather. The Spanish description of seasons is as follows: Seis meses de lodo — six months of mud. Seis meses de polvo — six months of dust. Seis meses de torlo — six months of everything. The northern islands lie in the track of the typhoons which, developing in the THE SOUTHEHxM PHILIPPINES. 289 Pacific, sweejo over the China Sea from NE. to SW. during the southwest monsoon. They may be looked for at any time between May and November, but it is during the months of July, August, and September that they are most frequent. Early in the season the northern region feels the greatest force, but as the season advances the typhoon gradually works southward and the dangerous time at Manila is about the end of October and the beginning of November. Typhoons rarel}', if ever, pass .south of 9 degrees N. latitude. Sometimes the typhoon is of large diameter and travels slowly, so far as progressive movement is concerned; at others it is of smaller dimensions, and both the circular and progressive motions are more rapid. How- ever they are alwa3's storms of terrific energy and frequently cause terrible destruc- tion of crops and property on shore and of shipping at sea. Thunderstorms, often of great violence, are frequent in May and June, before the commencement of the rainy season. During July, August, September, and October the rains are very heavy. The rivers and lakes are swollen and frequently overflow, flooding large tracts of low country. At Manila the average rainfall is stated to be from 75 to 120 inches per annum, and there the difference bet^reen the longest and shortest day is only 1 hour 47 min- utes and 12 seconds. This rainfall, immense though it be, is small as compared with that of other parts of the archipelago; e. g., in Liano, NE. of Mindanao, the average yearly downpour is 142 inches. Gales. — The gales of the Philippines may be divided into three classes, known by the local names of Colla, Nortada, and Baguio. The -CoUa is a gale in which the wind blows constantly from one quarter, but with varying force and with alternations of violent squalls, calms, and heavy rains, usually lasting at least three days; these gales occur during the southwest monsoon and their direction is from the southwest quarter. The Nortada is distinguished from the Collo, in that the direction is con- stant and the force steady, without the alternations of passing squalls and calms. The Nortada is generally indicative that a typhoon is passing not very far off. These gales occur chiefly in the northern islands, and their direction, as the name implies, is from the northward. Baguio is the local name for the revolving storm known as the typhoon, which, being the more familiar term, will be used in these notes Typhoons. — These storms have their origin to the cast or to the southeast of the Philippines, whence their course is westward, with a slight divergence to the north or south, the average direction appearing to be west by north. They occur In all months of the year, but the greater number take place about the time of tlic 290 THE SOUTHERISr PHILIPPINES. equinoxes. The most violent ones occur at the autumnal equinox, and on an aver- age, two or three occur every year, and sometimes one follows another at a very short interval. It is believed that when one of these typhoons passes a high latitude in September there will be another in October of that year, and one may be looked for in November in a lower latitude. These tempests are not encountered in lati- tudes below 9 degrees N. The rate of progress of these storms is about 13 miles an hour; in none of those observed has it exceeded 14 miles nor fallen below 11 miles. The diameter of the exterior revolving circle of the storm varies from 40 to 130 miles, and the diameter of the inner circle or calm region, may be estimated at from 8 to 15 miles. The duration of the true typhoon at any one place is never longer than ten hours and generally much less. These storms are always accompanied by abun- dant rain, with low, dense clouds, which at times limit the horizon to a few yards distance, and are generally accompanied by electrical discharges. The barometer falls slowly for some days before the typhoon, then falls rapidly on its near approach, and reaches its lowest when the vortex is but a little way off. It then rises rapidly as the vortex passes away, and then slowly when it has gained some distance. Near the vortex there are usually marked oscillations. The typhoon generally begins with a northerly wind, light drizzling rain, weather squally and threatening, a falling bar- ometer and the wind veering to the eastward, when the observer is to the north- ward of the path of the storm, and backing to the westward when he is to the south- ward of it; the wind and rain increase as the wind shifts, and the storm generally ends with a southerly wdnd after abating gradually. The following warnings of the approach of a typhoon, and directions for avoid- ing the most dangerous part of it, are taken from the China Sea Directory: The ear- liest signs of a typhoon are clouds of a cirrus type, looking like fine hair, feathers or small white tufts of wool, traveling from east or north, a slight rise in the barom- eter, clear and dry weather, and light winds. These signs are followed by the usual ugly and threatening appearance of the weather which forebodes most storms, and the increasmg number and severity of the gusts with the rising of the wind. In some cases one of the earliest signs is a long heavy swell and confused sea, which comes from the direction in which the storm is approaching, and travels more rapidly than the storm's center. The best and surest of all warnings, however, will be found in the barometer. In every case there is great barometric disturbance. Accordingly, if the barometer falls rapidly, or even if the regularity of its diurnal variation be in- terrupted, danger may be apprehended. No positive rule can be given as to the amount of depression to be expected, but at the center of some of the storms the THE SOUTHERX PHILMTIXKS. ' 291 barometer is said to stand fully 2 inches lower than outside the storm field. The average barometric gradient, near the vortex of the most violent of these storms, is said to be rather more than 1 inch iu 50 nautical miles. As the center of the storm is approached the more rapid become the changes of wind, until at length, instead of its direction altering gradually, as is the case on first entering the storm field, the wind flies around at once to the opposite point, the sea meanwhile breaking into mountainous and confused heaps. There are many instances on record of the wind suddenly falling in the vortex and the clouds disper.sing for a short interval, though the wind soon blows again with renewed fury. In the northern hemisphere when the falling barometer and other signs create suspicion that a t}~phoon is approaching, facing the wind and taking 10 or 12 points to the right of it, will give the approximate bearing of its center. Thus, with the wind NE., the center will probably be from S. to SSE. of the observer's position. However, it is difficult to estimate the center of the vortex from any given point. This partly arises from the nncertainty as to the relation between the bearing of the center and the direction of the wind, and greatly from there being no means of knowing whether the storm be of large or small dimensions. H the barometer falls slowly, and the weather grows worse only gradually, it is reasonable to suppose that the storm center is distant; and conversely, with a rapidly falling barometer and increasing bad weather the center may be supposed to be approaching dangerously near. Practical Kules. — When in the region and in the season of revolving storms, be on the watch for premonitory signs. Constantly observe and carefully record the barometer. When on sea and there are indications of a typhoon being near, heave to and carefully observe and record the changes of the barometer and wind, so as to find the bearing of the center, and ascertain by the shift of the wind in which semi- circle the vessel is situated. Much will often depend upon heaving to in time. When, after careful observation, there is reason to believe that the center of the typhoon is approaching, the following rules should be followed in determining wheth- er to remain hove to or not, and the tack on which to remain hove to: In the northern hemisphere, if the right-hand semicircle, heave to on the star- board tack. If in the left-hand semicircle, run, keeping the wind if possible, on the starboard quarter, and when the barometer rises, if necessary to keep the ship from going too far from the proper course, heave to on the port tack. When the vessel lies in the direct line of advance of the storm — which position is, as previously- observed, the most dangerous of all — run with the wind on the starboard quarter. In 292 THE SOUTHEKN PHILIPfraES. all cases increase as soon as possible the distance from the center, bearing in mind tliat the whole storm field is advancing. In receding from the center of a typhoon che barometer will rise and the wind and sea subside. It should be remarked that in some cases a vessel may, if the storm be traveling slowly, sail from the dangerous semicircle across the front of the storm, and thus out of its influence. But as the rate at which the storm is traveling is quite uncertain, this is a hazardous proceeding, and before attempting to cross the seaman should hesitate and carefully consider all the circumstances of the case, ob- serving particularly the rate at which the barometer is falling. Northward of the Equator the current is divided into north and south equatorial currents by the equatorial countercurrent, a stream flowing from west to east throughout the Pacific Ocean. The currents in the western part of the Pacific, to the northward of the Equator, are affected by the monsoons, and to the southward of the Equator they are deflected by the coast of Australia. The trade drift, which flows to the westward between the parallels of 9 degrees and 20 degrees N., on reaching the eastern shores of the Philippine Islands again turns to the northward, forming near the northern limit of that group the com- mencement of the Japan stream. The main body of the current then flows along the east coast of Formosa, and from that island pursues a northeasterly course through the chain of islands l3dng between Formosa and Japan; and sweeping along the southeastern coast of Japan in the same general direction, it is known to reach the parallel of 50 degrees N. The limits and velocity of the Japan stream are consid- erably influenced by the monsoons in the China Sea, and by the prevailing winds in the corresponding seasons in the Yellow and Japan seas; also by the various drift currents which these periodic winds produce. Admiral Dewey has forwarded to the navy department a memorandum on min- eral resources of the Philippines prepared at the admiral's request by Professor George W. Becker of the United States geological survey. Only about a score of the several hundred islands, he says, are known to contain deposits of valuable minerals. He includes a table showing the mineral bearing islands and their resources. This table follows: "Luzon, coal, gold, copper, lead, iron, sulphur, marble, kaolin; Sataanduanes, Sibnyan, Bohol and Panaoan, gold only; Marimduque, lead and silver; Mindoro, coal^ gold and copper; Carraray, Batan, Eapu Rapu, Semarara, Negros, coal only; Masbete^, coal and copper; Eomblon, marble; Samar, coal and gold; Panay, coal, oil, gas, gold, copper, iron and perhaps mercury; Biliram, sulphur only; Leyte, coal, oil and per- THE SOUTHEEN PHILIPPINES. 293 haps mercury; Cebu, coal, oil, gas, gold, lead, silver and iron; Mindanao coal, gold, copper and platinum; Sulu archipelago, pearls." The coal, Mr. Becker says, is analogous to the Japanese coal and that of Wash- ington, but not to that of the Welsh or Pennsylvania coals. . It might better be characterized as a highly carbonized lignite, likely to contain much sulphur as iron pyrites, rendering them apt to spontaneous combustion and injurious to boiler plates. Nevertheless, he says, when pyrites seams are avoided and the lignite is properly handled, it forms a valuable fuel, especially for local consumption. Not least among the promising resources of the Philippines is a curious natural product. Several vegetable growths appear to possess the faculty of secreting mineral concretions, in all respects resembling certain familiar precious stones. The famous James Smithson was the first to give any real attention to these curious plant gems, but, though there can be no doubt of their authenticity, neither scientist nor merchant has followed this lead. One of the jewels, the bamboo opal, rivals the best stones in its delicate tints of red and green, but it is among the rarest, and 1,000 stems may be cut up before a single specimen be found. CHAPTEE XIX. SPECIFICATIONS OF GEIEVANCES OF THE FILIPINOS. An Official Copy of the Manifesto of the Junta Showing the Bad Faith of Spain in the Making and Evasion of a Treaty-^The Declaration of the Renewal of the War of Rebellion — Complaints Against the Priests Defined — The Most Im- portant Document the Filipinos Have Issued — Official Reports of Cases of Persecution of Men and Women in Manila by the Spanish Authorities — Mem- oranda of the Proceedings in Several Cases in the Court of Inquiry of the United States Officers. • The pages following, showing a cynical disregard of a solemn treaty by the Spaniards, a complete exposure of the reasons the Filipinos had for renewing the war, and the particulars of cases of individual wrongr suffered, as they were made known in the course of legal investigation, have been received direct from Manila, and enable us to complete the story of the Philippines with the testimony that the 'de- pravity of bad faith in regard to treaties, and incidents of personal cruelties in Spanish colonial governments, have illustrations in the Philippines as in Cuba, and demand of the American Nation in the hour of victory that Spain shall lose now and forever all her possessions in the East and West Indies, and be restricted to the peninsula and islands — the Canary and Balearic groups — that is, in tw^o words to home rule. The circumstances of the treaty between the Philippine Junta — the "treaty of Biyak — and the Spanish authorities, are of great notoriety, but the Philip- pine story has not until now reached the English speaking peoples. We give it from the official paper: "On signing the Treaty of Biyak na bato, we, the natives of the Philippines and the government of Spain, agreed that between our armies be established an armistice which was to last three years from the date of the- mentioned treaty. "The natives were to lay down their arms and turn them over to the Spanish au- thorities with all their depot (maestranza, a manufactory of ammunition, for repairs of lifles, etc., etc.) their ammunitions and forts, "The Spanish authorities, on the other hand, bound themselves to consent to the reforms (of public opinion amongst) the natives of the country claim; reforms which, according to the text of the decree of 9th August, 1897, the Captain and Guberno General assured us were granted and the execution of which was suspended on account of the insurrection. 294 00 ft < a m W H O cc E+ O O H' ft. 04 X- H. :z: o P4- o- o C4- B' w 02 S' cu- te o p. Pi < SPECIFICATIOXS OF GRIEVANCES OF THE FILIPIXOS. 2%o "The reforms asked for and granted were the following: 1. Expulsion or at least exclaustration of the religious orders. 2. Representation of the Philippines in the Spanish Cortes. 3. Application of real justice in the Philippines, equal for the Indian and for the Peninsular. Unity of laws between Spain and the Philippines. Participation of the Indians in the chief offices of the Civil Administration. 4. Adjustment of the property of the Parishes (church property) and of contri- butions in favor of the Indians. 5. Proclamation of the individual rights of the Indians^ as also of the liberty •of the press pnd of association, "The same Spanish government agreed to pay the liberating government a war indemnity, reduced to the limited sum -of G00,000 pesos, in payment of the arms, ammunitions, depots and forts which were surrendered, and in order to indemnify those who were to be obliged to live abroad during the term of the armistice, as an assistance to stay out of the Philippines while they were tr^'ing to establish them- selves and looking for legitimate and decorous means of existence. "It was agreed in like manner that General Don Fernando Primo de Rivera, Gob- -erno General of the islands, should remain in his post during the time of the ar- mistice, as a guarantee that the reforms be established. "And, finally, said authority promised that he would propose and there would be conceded a very ample amnesty. "Contrary to what was stipulated, the mentioned General was removed from his post shortly after the agreement, was signed; and although the liberating govern- ment had fulfilled the laying down and delivery of the arms, ammunitions, depot and forts of its general encampment, the reforms were not established, only part of the offered indemnity has been paid and the amnesty remains a project onh', some pardons being given. "The government of Madrid, deriding the natives, and with contempt of what had signed as a gentleman the General Commander of their army in the field, tried, instead of carrying out the expulsion or exclaustration of the Priests, to elevate them more, nominating at once for the two bishoprics, vacant in the colonies, two Priests of those same religious orders that oppressed the country and were the first cause of the insurrection, the disorder and the general dissatisfaction in the islands; thus ridiculing the virtue, knowledge and worth of the numerous secular Spanish clerg}^, and especially of that of the Philippines. "iN'ot contented with this, thev have raised and rewarded those Peninsulars who 296 SPECIFICATIOJSTS OF GEIEVANCES OF THE FILIPINOS. in the Philippines, as in Madrid, more coTs-ardl}- and miserable still, because they abused their position and the protection of those same authorities who signed the treaty, insulted at banquets, assemblies and through the press, with epithets and jokes offensive and vulgar, the patient natives; as happened with the Peninsular Eafael Ccmenge, the protege and farcical table companion of the Priest, who amongst us performs the duties of the Archbishopric of Manila; the Minister of War has just conceded the said Comenge the grand cross of military merit, for shoutino- against us and imputing to us every kind of baseness and vices, knowing that he was lying, and for exacting from the gamblers of the Casino Espanol of Manila, as their presi- dent^ the contribution of 30,000 pesos, to present General Primo de Eivera with a golden statute of that value, and, a curious coincident, this brave was one of the first who escaped from Manila, full of feat when the news arrived there that an American squadron would attack that port and that the risk he would run was reaL ^'You have seen before now, how that insect AYencestao Eetana was rewarded with a cooked up deputyship to the Cortes, that salaried reptile of the Philippine con- vents, who, with the aid of that tyrant General Weyler, his worthy godfather, the despotic incendiary of the town of Calamba, of ominous memory amongst us, does nothing but vomit rabid foam, insulting us by day and night with calumnies and shrieks, in that paper whose expenses the Procurators of the Manila convents pay. ^''Prepare yourselves also for seeing that a titled nobility be given to the well known ^Quioguiap' (fecer y Temprado), writer in the ^El Liberat,' of Madrid, who, to be in unison with the priests, does not cease to call us inferior race, troglodytes, without human nature or understanding, big boy; the same who, in order to de- prive the rich ^Abellas' (father and son) of Carnarines, of the position they had con- quered by their industr}^, economy and intelligence as almost exclusive purchasers of the Abaco (Manila hemp) of that region, tried and succeeded villainously in having them accused and shot in the camp of Bagumbayan; the same who afterwards sought in vain the reward of his criminal attempts, although conscious of his per- verseness, to deliver to himself the produce of their harvest and their labor. "Peace was hardly made, when General Primo de Eivera denied the existence of the agreement and shot day after day those same persons whom he had promised to protect, believing foohshly that, the nucleus of the revolution once destroyed, the insurgents would need thirty or forty years in order to reunite themselves; but he accepted freely the pension of the grand cross of San Fernando, which, as a reward for the peace, he was given. "The same happened with bloodthirsty Monet, the author of the hecatomb of SPECIFICATIONS OF GEIEYANCES OF THE FILIPINOS. 297 Zambales, who was promoted to the rank of a general and honored by a grand cross;' also with his competitor in brutal deeds, General Tejeirs, the assassin of the Bisayos, and with the Vice Admiral Montojo, so severely punished later on, by whose orders the city of Cebu was destroyed and demolished, to revenge the death of an impure Eecoleto Priest. "In eloquent contrast with what the natives had to expect, there has not been one single concession or reward for the credulous Pedro A. Paterno, a Filipino, the only real agent of the miracle of the Peace, to whom they have denied even the modest historical title ^Maguinong' (Don). "Add to all these infamies and indignities the removal of General Primo de Eivera, who, we repeat, was bound to remain in Manila during the three years of the armistice, and the nomination in his stead of another governor, General Augusti, who, completely without knowledge of the country, brought with him as his coun- sellor the unworthy Colonel Olive, the same who had proceeded with the utmost haste and greatest partiality and passion against the pretended chieftains, authors, protectors and followers of the sacred movement begun in August, 1896; who had, as military prosecutor for the ^Captain General,^ exacted with insolent cynicism, and with the knowledge and consent of his superior officers, considerable sums of money from those who wished to be absolved, in order to imprison them again when they did not comply with all his extortions; the same who, with shameless partiality worked and used his influence all he could towards the shooting of the immortal Tagalo martyr. Dr. Jose Eizal; the same finally, who, during the command of weak General Blanco and of bloodthirsty and base General Polariyi demanded continu- ally the imprisoning of the so-called ^Sons of the Country,' the descendants of the Europeans, that is, who had amongst us any importance by their learning, their in- dustry, their fortunes or their lineage, and who were not willing to bribe him so as to be left in liberty. "In view of this series of acts of faithlessness, of contempt, of insults, of crimes, and before all, the forgetting of the treaty, so recently as well as solemnly entered upon, those same who signed the treaty of Biyak na bato, have considered them- selves free of the obligation to remain abroad and of keeping any longer the promised armistice. "And, taking advantage of the Providential coming to the Philippines of tlic revenging squadron of the Great Eepublic of the United States of North America, they come back to their native soil proud and contented, to reconquer their liberty and their rights, counting on the aid and protection of the brave, decided, and noble ^98 SPECIFICATIONS OF GEIEYAXCES OF THE FILIPINOS. Admiral Dewey, of the Anglo-Saxon squadron which has. succeeded in beating and destroying the forces of the tyrants who have been annihilating the personality and energy of our industrious j^eople, model of noble and glorious qualities. ^'The moment has come, therefore, for the Filipinos to count themselves and to ^nter into rank and file in order to defend with zeal and resolution and with a viril- ity of strong men, the soil that saw their birth as well as the honor of their name, making publicly and universally known their competence, ability and their civic, political and social virtues. "Let us. all fight united; seconding the revenging and humanitarian action of the North American Eepublic; and let us learn from her, accepting her counsels and her system, the way of living in order, peace and liberty, copying her institutions, which are the only adequate ones for the nations who wish to reconquer their per- sonality in history, in the period we are passing. "On going to battle, let us inscribe on our flag with clearness and accuracy the sacred legend of our aspirations. "We want a stable government, elected by the people themselves; the laws of ^which are to be voted for by those same who have to keep them faithfully, con- serving or modifying their present institutions in the natural times in the life of na- tions, but modehng them and taking us their own, the democratic ones of the -United States of North America. "We want the country to vote its taxes; those necessary for public services and 'to satisfy (pay in full) the assistance North America and the corporations, organi- zations and individuals who help us to rise out of our lethargic state, are rendering ns; taking care at the same time to abolish all those which have for basis a social vice or an immoral action, like the lottery, the tax on gambling dens, on galleras (arenas ;ior fights of gamej cocks) and the farming out of the sale of opium. But before all, ■:inay there nevermore appear again that repugnant tax levied on Pederasty, which, to get two thousand pesos offended the universal conscience and the chaste name of ■'Chinese Comedies.' "We want plainest liberty in all its bearings, including that of ideas, association and the press, without arriving at lawlessness and disorder; just as it is established in 'that great, so well regulated Eepublic. "We want to see the religion of the natives and of chose that come to this country r-i^igorously respected by the public powers and by the individuals in particular. "We want Christianism, the basis of present civilization, to be the emblem and -.^solid foundation of our religious institutions, without force or compulsion; that SPECIFICATIONS OF GRIEVANCES OF THE FILIPINOS. 299 the native clergy of the country be that which direct and teach the natives in all the degrees of the ecclesiastical hierarchy. •*lVe want the maintenance of this clergy to be effected as the different regional governments may see fit, or, as the city councils or popular elective institutions estab- lished in every locality may determine. ""We want personal property to be absolutely and unconditionally respected; and, as a consequence, the recognition to the land holder of the property he cultivates and has improved by his labor, of the so-called Haciendas of the religious orders, who hav^e usurped them and robbed them by the perverse acts of the confessionary, be- guiling the fanaticism of ignorant women and or more than timid aged man, afraid of the vengeance the priests in their innate wickedness might meditate against their families, who extorted from them dues at the last moments of their existence den3'ing them spiritual aid and divine rewards without the cession of their material inter- ests before departing from this earth. "AYe want the possessions of these land holders to be respected without their being obliged to pay any canon, lease or tax whatsoever of religious character, depressive or unjust, ceasing thus their detainment, anti-juridicial and anti-social, on the part of monarchial orders, rapacious orders whom, on the strength of their being a ^nec- essary evil,' the ignorant functionaries of Spanish administration, like themselves insatiable extortioners, have been aiding, in disdain of right, reason and equity. "We want in order to consolidate the propert}', the ominous ^Inspection de Montes,' to disappear and cease in its actual functions, as a disorganizing and fiscal- izing center of the titles of property of the natives, which on pretense of investigating and discovering the detainment of State lands, had the custom of declaring the property of the State or of others, such as was already cultivated and producing by the improvements made by the- poor peasant, awarding such to their friends or to those who bribe them if the legitimate proprietor refused to give them, in shameless auction, what they asked for as a remuneration for what they called 'shut- ting their eyes,' as has happened lateh', amongst other scandalous cases, in Mindoro, when staking out the limits of the new Hacienda adjudged there to the Recoleto Priests. "We want public administration to be founded and to act on a basis of morality, economy and competence, in the charge of natives of the country or of such others v>ho by their experience and learning can serve us as guides and teach us the basis and the system of those countries who have their economical, political and adminis- trative offices and proceedings simplified and well organized. 300 SPECIFICATIONS OF GEIEVANCES OF THE FILIPINOS. "We want the recognition of all the substantive rights of the human personality; guaranteed by judicial power, cemented in the principles in force in all the cultured nations; that the judicial authorities, when applying the laws, be penetrated by and identified with the spirit and the necessities of the locality; that the administra- tion of justice be developed by simple, economical and decisive proceedings; and that judges and magistrates have their attributions limited by the functions of a jury and by verbal and public judgment, making thus disappear the actual state cf affairs, of which prevarication and crooked dealings are the natural and necessary mark. "We want sensible codes, adapted to our manner of being without differentiation of races and without odious privileges contrary to the principle of equality before the law. "We want the increase and protection of our industries by means of subventions and of local and transient privileges without putting barriers to the general ex- change of produce and of mercantile transactions with all the nations of the globe without exception. "We want liberty of banking business, liberty of mercantile and industrial socie- ties and companies, commercial liberty, and that the Philippines cease to be shut up amongst the walls of its convents, to become again the universal market, like that of Hongkong, that of Singapore, that of the Straits, that of Borneo, that of the Mo- luccas, and that of some of the autonomous colonic^ of Australia, countries which surround us; and that capital may with confidence develop all the elements of wealth of this privileged soil, without more duties or charges on import and export than those the circumstances of each epoch may require for determined purposes. "We want roads, canals and ports, the dredging, of our rivers and other waterways, railroads, tramways and all the means of locomotion and transport, on water and earth, with such help and assistance as may be needed to carry them out within a certain time and develop them conveniently. "We want the suppression of the so-called ^Guardia Civil,' this pretorian and odious institution in whose mahgnment and inhuman meshes so many Phihppine mar- tyrs have suffered and expired; that center of tortures and iniquities, those contempti- ble flatterers of small tyrants and of the concupiscense of the priests, those in- satiable extortioners of the poor native; those hardened criminals animated con- stantly in their perverseness by the impunity with which their accomplices, the representatives of despotism and official immorality, covered them. SPECIFICATIONS OF GEIEVAXCES OF THE FILIPIXOS. 301 "In their stead we want a judicial and gubernatorial police, which is to watch over and oblige the fulfillment of existing laws and regulations without tortures and abuses. "We want a local army, composed of native volunteers, strictly limited to what order and natural defense demands. "We want a public instruction less levitical and more extensive in what refers to natural and positive sciences; so that it may be fitted to industrate woman as well as man in the establishment and development of the industries and wealth of the country, marine and terrestrial mining, forestal and industrial of all kmds, an instruction which is to be free of expenses in all its degrees and obligatory in its primary portion, leaving and applying to this object all such property as is destined to-day to supply the sustainment of the same; taking charge of the administration of such property a Council of Public Instruction, not leaving for one moment longer in the hands of religious institutions, since these teach only prejudice and fanati- cism, proclaiming, as did not long since a rector of the university of Manila, that Vicdicine and physical sciences are materialistic and impious studies,' and another, that Apolitical economy was the science of the devil.' "We want to develop this public instruction, to have primary schools, normal schools, institutes of second degree, professional schools, universities, museums, public libraries, meteorological observatories, agricultural schools, geological and botanical gardens and a general practical and theoretical system of teaching agriculture, arts and handicraft and commerce. All this exists already in the country, but badly organized and dis- persed, costing the contributors a good deal without practical results, which might have been expected, by the incompetency of the teachers and the favoritism em- joloyed in their nominations and remunerations. "We want laws for hunting and fishing, and teaching and regular vigilance for the faithful carrying on of pisciculture, well-known already to the natives, for tiie ad- vantageous disposing of their marine products, such as conch shell, mother of pearl, pearls, bichi de mer, ray skins, fish lime, etc., and for the raising of all kinds of animals useful for agricultural and industrial purposes and as victuals for the natives and for export. "We want liberty of immigration and assistance for foreign settlers and capital- ists, with such restrictions only, wlien there be an opportunity, as limit actually Chinese immigration, similar to legislature 'on this point in North America and Australia. "We want, finally, anything that be just, equitable and orderly: all that may be a02 SPECIFICATIONS OF GEIEVANCES OF THE FILIPIXOS. basis for development, prosperity and well being; all that may be a propelling ele- ment of morality, A'irtue and respect to the mutual rights of all the inhabitants^ in their minor relations and in those with the foreio'ner. o "Do not believe that the American nation is unbelieving or fanatically protestant,. that it take to the scaffold or to the fire those who do not believe determined principles and practice special religious creeds; within that admirable organization^ masterly and living model of perfection for the old nations of Europe and x\sia. . lives and prospers the Eoman Catholic Church. "There are some seven million inhabitants who profess that religion directed by natural clergy with their proper ministers, taken from that fold of Christ. "'Then there are bishops, archbishops, cardinals of the Eoman Church, American, subjects, beloved faithful of the Pope Leo XIII. "There then is a Temporal Apostolical Delegate representative of the legitimate successor of St. Peter; there are parsons, canons, dignitaries and provisors, who live and teach in order peace and prosperity, respected by one and all, as you yourselves will be the day the American flag will influence in the spiritual direction of the Philippine people. "Then there are cathedrals, parish churches, temples and chapels, sumptuous and^ admired, where they adore the same God of the Sinai and Golgotha, where severs, and ostensive cult is rendered to Immaculate Virgin Mary and to the Saints you have- on your altars and none dare to destro}', attack or prostitute them. "There then are seminaries, convents, missions, fraternities, schools, everything: Cathohc, richly furnished, well kept up and perfectly managed to the glory of the religion. "There resides His Eminence Cardinal Gibbons, a wise Eoman Catholic prelate, American citizen, who recently and on occasion of the present war, has ordered, with consent of His Sanctity, that all the catholic clergy of the Anierican nation raise daily prayers to the Most High to obtain the triumph of the arms of their country,, for the good of religion and humanity, which cause, in the present conflict legiti- mately and unquestionably represents that government. "And just as Christ, to be Messiah, had to be according to the prophecies, Jew and of the Tribe of Judah, that is: By right of his political fatherland, as by that of his native soil, of the chosen people, thus* amongst you who ever wants to be a clergy- man or merit being canon, dignitary, provisor, bishop, archbishop and cardinal^ musi as an indispensable condition, have been born on your proper soil, as is occur- SPECIFICATIOXS OF GEIEYAXCES OF THE FILIPIXOS. 30a ring absolute!}^ in all the civilized nations of the old and new world, with the only exception of the Phili|)pines. "There may be priests, religions congregations, nuns and convents, but sub- missive to the laws of the country and obliged to admit in their bosom as formerly happened in these isles, as estimable and superior members of such institutions, those feel a vocation for a conventual life, as the noble and generous people of Xorth America will demand, and will, do not doubt it, recognize these your legitimate rights. FILIPIXOS AXD COUXTEYMEX. "The protection of the great American Eepublic will make you respected and con- sidered before the cultured powers, legitimately constituted; and your personality will be proclaimed and sanctioned everywhere. "We have the duty to exact the rights we have just proclaimed and the ^natives' in all the isles and in all their different races, as well as the 'Mestizo Sangley,' as the 'Mestizo EspanoV and the 'Son of the Country,' we all have the honorable duty of defending ourselves against the whip and the contempt of the Spaniards, ac- cepting the protection and direction of the humane Xorth xlmerican nation. YIYA FILIPINOS Hurrah for liberty and right. Hurrah for the Grand Eepublic of the United States of Xorth America. Hurrah for President McKinley and Eear Admiral Dewey. THE JEXTA PATEIOTICA. "Hongkong, April, 1898." Under the authority of the United States there have been inquiries by a court into the causes of the imprisonment of the inmates of the penitentiary and common jail at Manila, and others who have suffered from the enmities of the members of the gov- ernment that ceased when the Spanish flag was taken down and the American flag raised. The memoranda following were made in the court proceedings, and state the facts as judicially established. FULGEXCIA TUAZOX. This lady was confined in Bilibid seven years ago (though the record shows July 11, 1898,) by order of the Governor-General, on a charge of selling counterfeit stamps. She was tried, and sentenced to six years' confinement; but the Judge ac- cepted a bribe of $900 and released her about a week after her trial. A year after- 304 SPECIFICATION'S OF GEIEVAXCES OF THE FILIPINOS. wards she was again arrested by a new judge on the same charge^ and $3^000 was de- manded as the price of her liberty. This was refused, and imprisonment followed. She claims to have bought the stamps (which were telegraph stamps), from the Government. DOEOTEA ARTEAGA. Tliis young lad}^, who was a scliool teacher in her native province, Montinlupa, Manila province, was confined in Bihbid, August 8th, 1895, charged with "sacrilege and robber}'," and insurrection. She came to Malate to see about her license as a school teacher, and was arrested by the civil guard on the above charge. She claims her arrest was instigated by a priest who had made overtures to her to have carnal intercourse with him, and had attempted the same, and had been repulsed and re- fused. To cover up liis ill-doing he caused her arrest on the charge of having stolen part of the vessels used in the communion service of the Eoman Catholic church. She has never been married and the Alcalde says, "Her conduct in prison has been very good." SEXOEA MAXIMA GUEEEEEA. This woman was born in Santa Cruz, in 1838, and has been confined in Bilibid since 1890, though the record shows that she was imprisoned July 11, 1898, by order of the Governor-General. This date, however, is admitted to be an error by the Alcalde, without any explanation of the error. The record shows that she v\'as im- prisoned because she objected to the Government taking vrood off her property without paying for it. She claims that since her imprisonment, the Government has confiscated $40,000 v/orth of her property. ^ FELIPE EEMEXTIXA, This prisoner was confined in the year 1889, when only 12 years old. At that time a revolution was in progress in the province in which he resided, and he was ^'^captured" by the Spanish forces and sent to Bilibid Carcel. He did not know with what he was charged, and while he was tried, he never received any sentence. JOSE DAVID. "I was put in here June 13th, 1898. x\m a civilian and a ^Katipunan.' Was tried, but never sentenced." The foregoing is the testimony of the prisoner Jose David, and is quoted here as, an example of the testimony of some hundreds of others, v/hich is almost identical. Large numbers of the natives seem to be mem- SPECIFICATIONS OF GEIEVAXCES OF THE FILIPIXOS. 305 bers of the "Katipunan" society, whicli appears to be a revolutionar}' brotherhood of some kind. They have been imprisoned for terms varying from one or two months to several years (in some cases ten or twelve years), upon the charge of be- longing to this society; in very many cases without trial, and in the majority with no sentence whatever, and, very largely, simply "on susupicion." AGAPITO CALIBUGAR. This man was arrested by the Civil Guard, in July, 1889, in his own house, and w^as tried but not sentenced, or rather did not know what his sentence was. He was told that his sentence was served out, but he could not be returned to his own province of Negros because the Governor had no ships available for that purpose. He had no idea why he was arrested and tried. There are several other cases similar to this one, in which the charge is "resisting armed forces" — most of which were tried by court martial, and never sentenced. GREGOEIO DOMIXGO. This prisoner was confined in Bilibid Carcel on the 25th of November, 1896, the entry on the prison record against his name being "no se espresa" — "no charge expressed." He was, of course, neither tried nor sentenced, but had been in prison almost two years, with absolutely no reason attempted to be made for his conflne- meut. This case is also cited as an example of many similar ones. JOSE TEABADO. This is the case of a man who was a member of the Katipunan society, but who was tried and sentenced'. He was imprisoned in Bilibid Carcel, May 5th, 1898, his sentence being confinement "cardena perpetua" — "in chains forever." He was one of five men who received the same sentence for a like offence. He, with the others, was set free August 31st, 1898. SILYIXO DE CASTEO. In this case the prisoner, who was formerly employed as a clerk in a grocery store, was imprisoned in B;libid Carcel on the 25th of December, 1S9T, charged with having stolen $4.50 (Spanish, which represents about $2.25 x-Vmerican). His story was that he was sent out to collect a bill, but lost the said bill, and was there- fore accused by his employer of stealing the money, and was imprisoned. He was tried, but never received anv sentence. 306 SPECIFICATIOXS OF GEIEYAXCES OF THE FILIPINOS. DON FEENANDO SIEREA. The prisoner above named is a full-blooded Spaniard, tliirty-eiglit years of age^ married, and has one child, three months old. He was confined in Bilibid, May 28^ 1893, for ''insulting'^ a civil gnard, while drunk, and was tried and sentenced to six years and sLx months imprisonment. He had already served over five years of this^ sentence, when he was released September 2nd, 1898. CEISTAN DEL CAEMEN. This man was confined in the Carcel De Bihbid, the "common prison," May 4:th, 1898, and his offense was that he was "suspected of being an xlrneriean!" For this heinous crime he was neither tried nor sentenced. JULIAN SOEIANO. In this case the prisoner was confined in Bihbid, March 25th, 1895, after hav- ing been in prison one year in his province on suspicion of being implicated in the killing of a civil guard at a place colled Balauga. He was tried by a sergeant of the civil guard, who caused him to be tortured in order to wring a confession from him. This torture was infiicted by means of a thin rope or cord, tied very tightly around the muscles of the arm above the elbow (cutting into the flesh deeply), and left there in some instances for thirty days. In some cases the men were also hung up, the weight of the body being sustained by the cords around the arms. Several of the prisoners have deep scars on their arms caused by the torture. This man was. never sentenced. LEON BUENO. The charge against this man was that he had stolen a pig, and he was confined in Bilibid, March 21st, 1893, after being tried and sentenced to eight years' impris- onment. He had already served over five years when released Sept. 3, 1898. — JOSE CASTILLO. This man was confined in Bilibid Carcel, December 15th, 189J:, charged with "iusulling the armed forces of Spain." His version of the reason for his imprison- ment is as follows: His cousin and a lieutenant in the guardia civile were very close friends, and the said cousin, wishing to present a cow to the lieutenant, applied to the prisoner for one, which was given to him. Later on the cousin thought he would like to present his friend with another cow, so applied to the prisoner for SPEGIFICATIONS OF GRIEVANCES OF THE FILIFIXOS. 307 -cow ISTo. 2, and was this time refused. Id order to take vengeance on the prisoner, the cousin denounced him to the civil guard lieutenant as a "bandit/' and he was arrested and imprisoned as above. The prisoner was sixty years of age. ANASTACIO DE MESA. The story of this prisoner seems to be particularly sad. He was a chorister or sacristan in a Roman Catholic church, with several others, and was arrested^ with his companions, by the civil guard, charged with "sacrilege." The truth of the matter, how^ever, seems to be as follows: The prisoner had a sweetheart with whom a lieutenant of the civil guard, named de Yega, appears to have been infatuated. After imprisoning Anastacio de Mesa and his companions upon the above charge, which seems to be without foundation entirely, de Vega took the girl, and com- pelled her by force and against her will to live with him as his mistress. The girl soon died, her end, no doubt, being hastened by the brutal cruelty of de Vega. These young men, hardly more than boys, were imprisoned on August 3, 1895, ^fter having been tried by court martial, but not sentenced. They have now been liberated. It should be stated that de Vega himself constituted the "court martial" before which these boys were tried. Note. — There are several cases of arrests for "insulting and resisting the armed forces of Spain." In the case of Pedro Javier, the accused was over seventy years old, and in that of Miguel de la Gruz, he was seventy-five years old; while in one or two other cases boys of ten or twelve years of age w^ere arrested on the same charge. CHAPTEE XX. HAWAII AS ANNEXED. The Star Spangled Banner Up Again in Hawaii, and to Stay — Dimensions of the Islands — What the Missionaries Have Done — Eeligious Belief by Nation- ality — Trade Statistics — Latest Census — Sugar Plantation Laborers — Coinage of Silver — Schools — Coffee Growing. The star spangled banner should have been waving in peaceful triumph over our central possessions in the Pacific for five years. Now Old Glory has ascended the famous flag-stafl', from, which it was mistakenly withdrawn, and is at home, It.^ lustrous folds are w^elcomed by a city that is strangely American, in the sense that it is what the world largely calls "Yankee," and does not mean bad manners by the most expressive word that has so "vast a distinction. The shops of Honolulu are Americanized. There is a splendid blossoming of the flag of the country. The British parties of opposition have faded out. There is the wisdom in English statesmanship to be glad to see us with material interest in the Pacific Ocean. In this connection there is something better than a treaty. Do not mispronounce the name of the capital city of the Hawaiian Islands. Call it Hoo-noo-luu-luu and let it sing itself. Eemember that this city is not on the larger of the islands, but the third in size. The area of Hawaii, the greater island, is 4,210 square miles. Oahn, the Honolulu island, has 600 square miles, wdth a population of 40,205, and Hawaii has 33,285 people. The area of the islands, told m acres is, Hawaii, 2,000,000; Nani, 400,000; Oahu, 260,000; Kauai, 350,000; :^lalokai, 200,000; Lauai, 100,000; Nichan, 70,000; Kahloolawe, 30,000. Th^ dimensions of the tremendous volcanoes that are our property n_gw are startling: DIMENSIONS OF KILAUEA, ISLAND OF HAWAII. (The largest active Volcano in the Vforld.) Area, 4.14 square miles, or 2,650 acres. Circumference, 41,500 feet, or 7.85 miles Extreme width, 10,300 feet, or 1.95 miles. Extreme length, 15,500 feet, or 2.93 miles. Elevation, Volcano House, 1,040 feet, 3^8 •liAWAII AS ANNEXED. 3U9 DIMENSIONS OE MOKUAWEOWEO. (The Summit Crater of Mauna Loa, Island of Hawaii.) Area, 3.70 square miles, or 2,370 acres. Girciimference, 50,000 feet, or 9.47 miles. Length, 19,500 feet, or 3.7 miles. Width, 9,200 feet, or 1.74 miles. Elevation, 13,675 feet. DIMENSIONS OF HALEAKALA. (The great Crater of Maui, the Largest in the World.) Area, 19 square miles, or 12,160 acres. Circumference, 105,600 feet, or 20 miles. Extreme length, 39,500 feet, or 7.48 miles. Extreme width, 12,500 feet, or 2.37 miles. Elevation of summit, 10,032 feet. Elevation of principal cones in crater, 8,032 and 7,572 feet. Elevation of cave in floor of crater, 7,380 feet. DIMENSIONS OE lAO VALLEY. MAUI. Length (from Wailuku) about 5 miles. Width of valley, 2 miles. Depth, near head, 4,000 feet. Elevation of Puu Kukui, above head of valle}^ 5,788 feet.' Elevation of Crater of Eke, above Waihee Valley, 4,500 feet. Honolulu's importance comes from the harbor, and the favor of the missionaries. As to the general judgment of the ^vork of the missionaries, ther^ is nothing better to do than to quote Mr. Eichard H. Dana's "Two Years Before the Mast." He said in that classic: "It is no small thing to say of the missionaries of the American Board, that in less than forty years they have taught this whole people to read and write, to cipher and to sew. They have given them an alphabet, grammar and distionary; pre- served their language from extinction; given it a literature and translated into it the Bible, and works of devotion, science and entertainment, etc. They Imve esiablished schools, reared up native teachers, and so pressed their work that now •310 liA'WAII AS ANNEXED. the proportion of inhabitants who can read and write is greater than in Xew England. And, whereas, tliey found these islanders a nation of half-naked savages, living in the surf and on the sand, eating raw fish, fighting among themselves, tyrannized over by feudal chiefs and abandoned to sensuality, they' now see them decently clothed, recognizing the law of marriage, knowing something of accounts, going to school and public worship more regularly than the people do at home, and the more elevated of them taking part in conducting the affairs of the constitutional monarchy under which they live, holding seats on the judicial bench and in the legislative chambers, and filling posts in the local magistracies." Take away the tropical vegetation and the gigantic scenery and we have here, in our new Pacific possessions, a new Connecticut. The stamp of New England is upon this lofty land, especially in Honolulu, where the spires of the churches testify. There is much that is of the deepest and broadest interest in the possible missionary work here, on account of the remarkable race questions presented. Here are the nations and the people of mixed blood — the Chinese, Japanese and Portuguese — a population immensely representative of Oriental Asia. The measure of success of the missionaries under our flag in dealing with these people can hardly fail to, be accepted by the world as a test of the practical results of the labor wdth the Asiatica. In this connection, the figures following, from the Hawaiian Annual of 1898, fur- Tiish a basis of solid information for study: TABLE OF EELIGIOUS BELIEF, BY NATIONALITY. (So Far as Reported in Census Eeturns, 1896.) Roman Nationalities. Protestants. Catholics. Mormons. Hawaiians.. 12.8-12 8,427 4,368 Part Hawaiians 3,242 2,633 396 Hawaiian born f oreio'ners. . . . 1,801 6,622 - 15 Americans t 1,404 212 34 British 1,184 180^ 7 Germans 592 83 2 French 6 57 Norweaians 154 8 Portugiiese 146 7,812 1 Japanese 711 49 4 « Chinese 837 67 49 South Sea Islanders 178 42 3 Other nationalities 176 171 7 Totals 23,2;3 26,363 4,886 NOTE. — This table shows but 54,522 of the population (just about one- half) to have made returns of their religious bcdief. With 21,535 Japanese and 18,429 w m SPANIARDS READY TO EXECUTE INSURGENT PRISONERS. AFTER AN EXECUTION— PROSTRATE FORMS ARE MEN SHOT. HAWAII AS ANNEXED. 311 312 HAWAII AS ANNEXED. Cliinese (probably Buddhists and Confucians) unreported because not provided for in the schedules, the great difference is largely accounted for. The latest census returns show that of the whole population, 109,020, there are: Males, 72,517; females^ 36,503. The latest information of labor, under contract for sugar-making, make the number of males on the island more than double that of the females. There has been an increase of population of more than 50,000 in the eighteen years from 1878 to 1896. The census of the several islands, taken Septem- ber 27, 1896, shows: Population. Male. Oahu 26,164 Hawaii 22,632 Molokai 1,335 Lanai 51 Maui 11,435 Niihau 76 Kauai 10,824 Totals ..72,517 Female. 14,041 10,653 972 54 6,291 88 4,404 Total. 40,205 33,285 2,307 105 17,726- 164 15,228 Inhab- ited. 6,685 5,033 651 23 3,156 31 2,320 Dwellings. Unin- babi- ted. 1,065 955 92 13 650 3 299 Build- ing. 60 35 3 18 Total. 7,010 6.027 746 36 3,824 34 2,627 36,503 109,020 17,099 3,081 124 21,104 Hawaii's annual trade balance since 1879 is a notable record; Year. 1880. 1881 1882. 1883. 1884. 1885. 1886. 1887. 1888. 1889 1890. 1891, 1892. 1893. 1894 1895. 1896. Imports. ^3,673.268.41 4,547,978.64 4,974,510.01 5,624.240.09 4,637,514.22 3,830,544.58 4,877,738.73 4,943,840.72 4,540.887.46 5.438.790.63 6,962,201.13 7,438,582.65 4,028.295.31 4,363,177.58 5,104,481.43 5,714.017.54 7,164,561.40 Exports. $4,968,444.87 6,885,436.56 8,299.016.70 8,133,343.88 8,184,922.63 9,158,818.01 10,565,885.58 9.707.047.33 11,903,398.76 14,039.941.40 13,142,829.48 10.395.788.27 8,181.687.21 10,962,598.09 9,678,794.56 8,474,138.15 15,515,230.13 Excess Export Values. $1,295,176.46 2.337,457.92 3.324,506.69 2,509,103.79 3.547.408.41 5,328.2:3.43 5,688.146.85 4,763.206.61 7,362,511.30 8.601,150.77 6.180.628.35 2,957,205.f52 4.153,391.90 5,599,420.51 4.574.313.13 2,760.120.61 8,350,668.73 Custom House Keceipis. $402,181.63 423,192.01 505,390.98 577,332.87 551,739.59 502.337.38 580.444.04 595.002.64 546,142.63 550.010.16 695.956.91 732,594,93 494,385.10 545.754.16 524,767.37 547.149.40 656,895.82 Tlie percentage of imports from the United States in 1896 was 76.27; Great Britain, 10.54; Germany, 2.06; France, .25; China,* 4.17; Japan, 3.86. In 189S tlie export of sugar was 294,784,819 pounds; value, $7,975,500.41. HAWAII AS ANNEXED. 313 NATIONALITY OF VESSELS EMPLOYED IN FOEEIGN CARRY- ING TRADE, 1889-1896. Nations. No. 1689. Tons. No. 1890. Tons. No. 1891. Tons. No. 1892. Tons. American . . , ,,185 125,196 224 153,098 233 169,472 212 160,042 Hawaiian. . .. 44 56,670 35 43,641 21 26,869 11 4.340 British .. 22 21,108 16 22,912 33 52.866 30 58,317 German . . . , ,. 5 3,337 9 7,070 9 9,005 5 5,978 Japanese. . , . 5 8,239 3 4,701 All others. , .. 9 12,268 9 9,98*6 10 8,401 11 8,201 Total ... 269 218.579 293 236.701 311 274.852 722 242.579 BONDED DEBT, ETC., HAWAIIAN ISLANDS, JUNE 30, 1897. Per Cent. Under Loan Act of 1876 (.i iC 1882 ii a 1886 C( C( 1888 a a 1890 a a 1892 (( cc 1893 u a 1896 7 $ 1,500.00 6 67,400.00 6 2,000,000.00 6 190,000.00 5 and 6 124,100.00 5 and 6 82.100.00 6 650^000.00 5 222,000.00 3,337,100.00 Due Postal Savings Bank Depositors : 782,074.25 Total $4,119,174.25 NUMBER AND NATIONALITY OF SUGAR PLANTA- TION LABORERS. (Compiled from latest Report of Secretary Bureau of Immigration, December 31, 1897.) Hawaii- Islands, ans. Hawaii 594 Mauai 580 Oahu 197 Kauai 244 Portu- Japan- S. S. All guese. ese. Chinese. Isl'ders. Others. Total. 980 6.245 2,511 .24 232 10,586 526 2.010 1,114 45 110 4.385 211 1,331 973 16 55 2,783 551 3,307 1,691 30 203 6.026 Total, 1896 Total, 1895 .1,615 .1,584 2,268 12,893 2,497 11,584 1,309 6,289 3,847 2,442 115 133 600 473 127 23.780 20,120 3,660 Increase, 1896 31 . .'. . Decrease, 1899 231 18 The number of day laborers, 11,917, or a little over one-half of the total force engaged. The Japanese and South Sea Islanders are about evenly divided in their numbers as to term and day service, while Hcwvaiians and Portuguese show each but 314 HAWAII AS ANNEXED. a small proportion of their numbers nnder contract. Minors are reducing in num- ber. Women laborers, numbering 1,024 in all, show a gain of 89 over 1875. Only thirty Hawaiian females are engaged among all the plantations, and confined to one plantation each in Oahu, Kauai and Maui. The Hwaiian Annual of 1898 makes this annotation: During the year various changes have occurred in the labor population of the country, and under the working of the present law, requiring a proportion of other than Asiatic of all immigrant labor introduced, there has already arrived one company of Germans, comprisingg 115 men, 25 women and 47 children, all of whom found ready engagements with various plantations. Chinese arirvals in 1897 to take the place of Japanese whose terms were expiring, will alter the proportions of these nationalitis of plantation labor, and by the new law Asiatic laborers must return to' their country at the expiration of their term of service, or re-engage; they cannot drift around the country, nor engage in competi- tion with artizans or merchants. The islands comprising the Hawaiian territory are Hawaii, Mauai, Oaha, Kauai, Molokai, Lauai, Niihau, Kahaalawe, Lehua and Molokini, "The Leper Prison," and, in addition, Nihoa, or Bird Island, was taken possession of in 1822; an expedition for that purpose having been fitted out by direction of Kaahumanu, and sent thither under the charge of Captain William Sumner. Laysan Island became Hawaiian territory May 1st, 1857, and on the 10th of the same month Lysiansky Island was added to Kamehameha's realm by Captain John Paty. Palmyra Island was taken possession of by Captain Zenas Bent, April 15th, 1862, and proclaimed Hawaiian territory in the reign of Kamehameha lY., as per ^'By Authority" notice in the 'Tolynesian" of June 21st, 1862. Ocean Island was acquired September 20th, 1886, as per proclamation of Colonel J. H. Boyd, empowered for such service during the reign of Kalakaua. Necker Island was taken possession of May 27th, 1894, by Captain James A. King, on behalf of the Hawaiian Government. French Frigate Shoal was the latest acquisition, also by Captain King, and pro- claimed Hawaiian territory July 13th, 1895. Gardener Island, Mara or Moro Eeef, Pearl and Hermes Eeef, Gambia Bank, and Johnston or Cornwallis Island are also claimed as Hawaiian possessions, but there is some obscurity as to the dates of acquisition, and it is of record in the Foreign Office articles of convention between Hon. Charles St. Julien, the Commissioner and Political and Commercial Agent of His Majesty the King of the Hawaiian HAWAII AS ANNEXED. 31S Islands, and John Webster, Esq., the Sovereign Chief and Proprietor of the group of islands known as Stewart's Islands (situated near the Solomon Group), whereby is ceded to the Hawaiian Government — subject to ratification by the King — the islands of Ihikaiana, Te Parena, Taore, Matua Awi and Matua Ivoto, comprising said group of Stewart's Islands. But the formalities do not seem to have been perfected, so that we are not certain that the Stewart's Islands are our possessions. The latest thorough census of the Hawaiian Islands was taken in September, 1896, but the population was closely estimated July 1st, 1897. Japan- Portu- All Other Native.:. Chinese. ese. guese. Foreigners. Total Population as per Census, September, 1896 39,504 21,616 21,407 15,191 8,302 109,020 Passengers — Arrivals — Excess over departures, 4th quarter, 1896 1,377 1,673 339 3,389 Excess over departures, 6 mos. to July 1, 1897 2,908 396 58 207 3,569 Total 39,504 25,901 26,476 15,249 8,848 115,978 The following denominations of Hawaiian silver were coined during the reio-n of Kalakaua, at the San Francisco mint, and imported for the circulatino- medium of the islands in 1883 and 1884. They are of the same intrinsic value as the United States silver coins and were first introduced into circulation January 14th, at the opening of the bank of Claus Spreckles & Co. in Honolulu. The amount coined was $1,000,000, divided as follows: Hawaiian Dollars $ 500,000 Half Dollars 350,000 " Quarter Dollars 125,000 " Dimes '. 25,000 Total $1,000,000 SCHOOLS, TEACHEES AND PUPILS FOK THE YEAR 1896. —Pupils.— Male. Female. Government 132 111 169 280 5,754 4,435 Independent 63 72 130 202 1,994 1,840 — Teachers.- Schools. Male. Female. Total. 132 Ill 169 280 63 72 130 202 195 183 299 482 7,748 6,275 ^16 HAWAII AS ANISTEXED. NATIONALITY OF PUPILS ATTENDING SCHOOLS FOR THE YEAR 1896. Nationality. Male. Female. Hawaiian 3,048 2,432 Part-Hawaiian ..... 1,152 1,296 American , 219 198 British 105 151 German 152 136 Portuguese 2,066 1,534 Scandinavian „ 51 47 Japanese 242 155 Chinese 641 280 South Sea Islanders 15 13 Other foreigners 57 33 7,748 6,275 Of the Japanese, 8.5 per cent, were born on the islands; of the Chinese, per- centage born here, 10.3. Of a total of 41,711 Japanese and Chinese, 36,121 are males and 5,590 females. The figures show that the Asiatics are not at home. The sugar industry in our new possessions has had great prominence agricultur- ally. The sugar interest of these islands has had a formidable influence in the United States. Recent events and the ascertained certainties of the future show that the peo- ple of the United States will soon raise their sugar supply on their own territory. The annexation of these sugar islands was antagonized because there was involved the labor contract system. As a matter of course, the United States will not change the labor laws of the nation to suit the sugar planters of Hawaii, who have been ob- taining cheap labor through a system of Asiatic servitude. There is but one solu- tion — labor will be better compensated in Hawaii than it has been, and yet white men will not be largely employed in the cultivation of sugar cane in our tropical islands. The beet sugar industry is another matter. There will be an end of the peculiar institution that has had strength in our new possessions, that brings, under contract, to Hawaii a mass of forty thousand Chinese and Japanese men, and turns over the majority of them to the plantations, whose profits have displayed an un- w^holesome aggrandizement. Once it was said cotton could not be grown in the ■cotton belt of our country without slave labor, but the latter trouble is, the cotton producers claim, there is too much of their product raised. A ten-million bale 'Crop depresses the market. Already experiments have been tried successfully to pay labor in the sugar fields by the tons of cane delivered at the mills for grinding. ^This is an incident full of auspicious significance. A general feeling is expressed in 100,000 trs. 4,669 trs. 23,000 trs. 8,500 trs. 30,000 trs. 2,641 trs. 36,000 trs; HAWAII AS ANNEXED. 317 the current saying that coffee raising is "the coming industry." The confulence that there is prosperity in coffee amounts to enthusiasm. Here are some of the sta- tistics of coffee growers, showing number of trees and area, trees newly phmted and trees in bearing: NO. OF TREES OR AREA. Newly 1 to 3 year Trees Planted. old. in Bearing. J. C. Lenhart, Kaupo 2,000 trs. 4,000 trs Mokulau Coffee Co., Kaupo 2,000 trs. 10,000 trs. 2 acres. E. E. Paxton, Kaupo 5,000 trs. 7,000 trs Native Patches throughout Kaupo 10 acres. Lahaina Coffee and Fruit Co., Ltd., Lahaina . . . 10,000 trs. H. P. Baldwin, Honokahua 35,947 trs. Waianae Coffee Plantation Co., Waianae 7,500 trs. C. A. Wideman, Waianae 10,000 trs. Makaha Coffee Co., Ltd., Waianae ] 12 acres. Lanihau Plantation, Kailua 20,700 trs. 25,000 trs. 10,000 trs. Kona Coffee Co., Ltd., Kailua 35 acres, Geo. McDougal & Sons, Kailua 176 acres. 105 acres. H. C. Achi; Holualoa 10,000 trs. E. W. Barnard, Laupahoehoe 30,000 trs. J. M. Barnard, Laupahoehoe 5,000 trs John Gaspar, Napoopoo 33,000 trs. 16,000 trs. Manuel Sebastian, Kealakekua 8,000 trs, J. G. Henriqiies, Kealakekua 3,000 trs. C. Hooper, Kauleoli 2 acres. 12 acres. J. Keanu, Keei 5 acres. ' 10 acres. 16 acres. A. S. Cleghorn 3 acres 100 acres. Mrs. E.C. Greenwell 8 acres. 25 acres. J. M. Monsarrat, Kolo , 38 acres. 40 acres. Queen Emma Plantation 25,000 trs. L. M. Staples Plantation 25,000 trs. 12,000 trs. Olaa Coffee Co., Ltd 50 acres. 90 acres Grossman Bros 100 acres. 30 acres B. H. Brown , 2,260 trs. 2,000 trs. 3,225 trs. Herman Eldart 40,000 trs. 20,000 trs. 7,000 trs. The list of coffee growers is very long. That which is of greater interest is the showing made of the immense number of new trees. The coffee movement stead- ily gains force and the pace of progress is accelerated. Ever3'body has not been pleased with annexation. The Japanese are not in a good humor about it. The minister of Japan got his orders evidently to leave for Japan when the news arrived that the question had been settled in Washington, and he left for Yokohama by the boat that brought the intelligence. Japanese journals of importance raise the question as to the propriety of our establishing a coal sta- tion here. There is some dissatisfaction among the Hawaiians, who are bewildered. 318 HAWAII AS ANNEXED. They are children who beheve stories in proportion as they are queer. Many of them feel that they have a grievance. The young princess who is the representative of the extinguished monarchy is affable and respected. If the question as to giv- ing her substantial recognition were left to the Americans here, they would vote for her by a large majority. It w^ould not be bad policy for the government to be generous toward her. She is not in the same boat with the ex-Queen. The Ameri- cans who have been steadfast in uiDholding the policy that at last has prevailed are happy, but not wildly so, just happy. ISTow^ that they have gained their cause, their unity will be shaken by discussions on public questions and personal preferments. There should be no delay in understanding that in this Archipelago the race questions forbid mankind suffrage, and that our new possessions are not to become states at once, or hurriedly; that it will take generations of assimilation to prepare the Hawaiian Islands for statehood. The objection to the climate of the marvelous islands of which we have be- come possessed is its almost changeless character. There is no serious variation in the temperature. There is a little more rain in "winter" than in "summer.'^ There is neither spring nor fall. The trade winds afford a slight variety, and this- seems to be manipulated by the mountains, that break up the otherwise unsparing monotony of serene loveliness. The elevations of the craters, and the jagged peak? are from one thousand to thirteen thousand feet. If you want a change of climate, climb for cold, and escape the mosquitos, the pests of this paradise. There- are a score of kinds of palms; the royal, the date, the cocoanut, are of them. The bread fruit and banana are in competition. The vegetation is voluptuous and the scenery stupendous. There is a constellation of islands, and they differ like the stars in their glories and like human beings in their difficulties. CHAPTER XXI. EARLY HISTORY OF THE SANDWICH ISLANDS. Captain James Cook's Great Discoveries and His Martyrdom — Character and Tra- ditions of the Hawaiian Islands — Charges Against the Famous Navigator, and effort to Array the Christian World Against Him — The True Story of His Life and Death — How Charges Against Cook Came to Be Made — Testimony of Vancouver, King and Dixon, and Last Words of Cook's Journal — Light Turned on History That Has Become Obscure — Savagery of the Natives — Their Written Language Took Up Their High Colored Traditions, and Pre- served Phantoms — Scenes in Aboriginal Theatricals — Problem of Govern- ment in an Archipelago Where Race Questions Are Predominant — Now Americans Should Remember Captain Cook as an Illustrious Pioneer. Regarding the islands in the Pacific that we have for a long time largely occu- pied and recently wholly possessed, the Hawaiian cluster that are the stepping stone, the resting place and the coal station for the golden group more than a thou- sand leagues beyond, we should remember Captain Cook as one of our own Western pioneers, rejoice to read his true story, and in doing so to form a correct estimate of the people who have drifted into the area of our Protection, or territory that is inalienably our own, to be thoroughly Americanized, that they may some day be worthy to become our fellow^itizens. Sunday, January 18th, 1778, Captain Cook, after seeing birds every day, and turtles, saw two islands, and the next day a third one, and canoes put off from the shore of the second island, the people speaking the language of Otaheite. i^s the Englishmen proceeded, other canoes appeared, bringing with them roasted pigs and very fine potatoes. The Captain says: ^^Several small pigs were purchased for a six-penny nail, so that we again found ourselves in a land of plenty. The natives were gentle and polite, asking whether they might sit down, whether they might spit on the deck, and the like. An order restricting the men going ashore was issued that I might do everything in my power to prevent the importation of a fatal disease into the island, which I knew some of our men now labored under." Female visitors were ordered to be excluded from the ships. Captain Cook's journal is very explicit, and he states the particulars of the failure of his precautions. This is a subject that has been much discussed, and there is still animosity in the con- troversy. The discovery of the islands that he called the Sandwich, after his patron the Earl of Sandwich, happened in the midst of our Revolutionary war. After 319 .320 EARLY HISTOEY OF THE SANDWICH ISLANDS. €ook's explorations for the time^ he sailed in search of the supposed Northwest pass- age, and that enterprise appearing hopeless, returned to the summer islands, and met his fate in the following December. Captain George Vancouver, a friend and follower of Cook, says, in his ^^Yoyage of Discovery and Around the World/' from 1790 to 1795: "It should seem that the reign of George the Third had been reserved by the Great Disposer of all things for the glorious task of establishing the grand key- stone to that expansive arch over which the arts and sciences should pass to the furthermost corners of the earth, for the instruction and happiness of the most lowly children of nature. Advantages so highly beneficial to the untutored parts of the human race, and so extremely important to that large proportion of the subjects of this empire who are brought up to the sea service deserve to be justly appreciated; and it becomes of very little importance to the bulk of our society, whose enlightened huijianity teaches them to entertain a lively regard for the welfare find interest of those who engage in such adventurous undertakings for the advancement of science, or for the extension of commerce, what may be the animadversions or sar- casms of those few unenlightened minds that may peevishly demand, "what bene- ficial consequences, if any, have followed, or are likely to follow to the discoverers, or to the discovered, to the common interests of humanity, or to the increase of useful knowledge, from all our boasted attempts to explore the distant recesses of the globe?" The learned editor (Dr. Douglas, now Bishop of Salisbury) who has so justly anticipated this injudicious remark, has, in his very comprehensive introduc- tion to Captain Cook's last voyage, from whence the above quotation is extracted, given to the public not only a complete and satisfactory answer to that question, but has treated every other part of the subject of discovery so ably as to render any further observations on former voyages of this description wholly unnecessary, for the purpose of bringing the reader acquainted with what had been accomplished, pre- viously to my being honored with His Majesty's commands to follow up the labors of that Illustrious navigator Captain James Cook; to whose steady, uniform, inde- fatigable and undiverted attention to the several objects on which the success of his enterprises ultimately depended, the world is indebted for such eminent and im- portant benefits." Captain George Vancouver pays, in the introduction of his reports, a remark- able tribute to Captain Cook, that should become famihar to the American people, for it is one of the features of prevalent Hawaiian literature that the great navigator is much disparaged, and denounced. One of the favorite theories of the missionaries EARLY HISTORY OF THE SANDWICH ISLANDS. 321 'has been that Cook's death at the hands of the savages was substantially the pun- ishment inflicted by God, because the Captain allowed himself to be celebrated and worshipped as a god by the heathen, consenting to their idolatry when he should have preached to them, as was done with so much efficiency nearly half a century later. The fact is the natives had a great deal of ^^religion" of their own, and defended their superstitions with skill and persistence before yielding to the great simplicities of the Christian faith. Captain Cook, it must be admitted, did not attempt to preach the gospel. The gentleness of tlie natives turned out to con- tain a great deal that was most horrible. The closing years of the last century were those of rapid progress in the art of navigation, and Captain Vancouver gives this striking summary of testimony: "By the introduction of nautical astronomy into marine education, we are taught to sail on the hypothenuse, instead of traversing two sides of a triangle, which was the usage in earlier times; by this means the circuitous course of all voyages from place to place is considerably shortened; and it is now become evident that sea officers of the most common rate abilities who will take the trouble of making themselves acquainted with the principles of this science, will, on all suitable occa- sinos, with proper and correct instruments, be enabled to accjuire a knowledge of their situation in the Atlantic, Indian or Pacific Oceans, with a degree of accuracy sufficient to steer on a meridianal or diagonal line, to any known spot, provided it be sufficiently conspicuous to be visible at any distance from five to ten leagues. "This great improvement, by which the most remote parts of the terrestrial globe are brought so sasily within our reach, would nevertheless have been of com- paratively little utility had not those happy means been discovered for preserving the lives and health of the officers and seamen engaged in such distant and perilous undertakings; which were so peacefully practiced by Captain Cook, the first great discoverer of this salutary system, in all his latter voyages around the globe. But in none have the effect of his wise regulations, regimen and discipline been more manifest than in the course of the expedition of which the following pages are designed to treat. To an unremitting attention, not only to food, cleanliness, ven- tilation, and an early administration of antiseptic provisions and medicines, but also to prevent as much as possible the chance of indisposition, by prohibiting indi- viduals from carelessly exposing themselves to the influence of climate, or unhealthy indulgences in times of relaxation, and by relieving them from fatigue and the inclemency of the weather the moment the nature of their duty would permit them to retire, is to be ascribed the preservation of the health and lives of sea-faring peo- ple on long voyages." 322 EARLY HISTOEY OF THE SANDWICH ISLANLS. '''Those benefits did not long remain unnoticed by tlie commercial part of the British nation. Eemote and distant vo^^ages being now no longer objects of terror, enterprises were projected and carried into execution, for the purpose of establishing new and lucrative branches of commerce between Northwest America and China; and parts of the coast of the former that had not been minutely examined by Cap- tain Cook became now the general resort of the persons thus engaged." The special zeal and consistency with which Cook is defended by the English navigators who knew him and were competent to judge of the scope of his achieve- ments is due in part to the venom of his assailants. The historian of the Sandwich Islands, Sheldon Dibble, says: "An impression of wonder and dread having been made. Captain Cook and his men found little difficulty in having such intercourse with the people as they chose. In regard to that intercourse, it was marked, as the world would say, with kindness and humanity. But it cannot be concealed that here and there at this time, in the form of loathsome disease, was dug the grave of the Hawaiian nation; and from so deep an odium it is to be regretted that faithful his- tory cannot exempt even the fair name of Captain Cook himself, since it was evident that he gave countenance to the evil. The native female first presented to him was a person of some rank; her name was Lelemahoalani. Sin and death were the first commodities imported to the Sandwich Islands." We have already quoted Captain Cook's first words on this subject. He had much more to say giving in detail difficulties rather too searching to be fully stated. As for the charge that Cook personally engaged in debauchery, it rests upon the tradition of savages, who had no more idea than wild animals of the restraint of human pas- sion. It was debated among the islanders whether the white men should be as- sailed by the warriors, and it was on the advice of a native queen that the women were sent to make friends with the strangers; and this was the policy pursued. As for the decline of the natives in numbers, and the "digging the grave of the na- tion," the horror of the islands was the destruction of female infants, and also the habit of putting aged and helpless men and women to death. The general indict- ment against Captain Cook is that this amiable race was just about prepared for Christianity when he thrust himself forward as a god, and with his despotic licen- tiousness destroyed immediate possibilities of progress. In Sandwich Island notes by "a Haole" (that is to say, a white person) we see what may be said on the other side of the picture: "It becomes an interesting duty to examine their social, po- litical and religious condition. The first feature that calls the attention to the past is their social condition, and a darker picture can hardly be presented to the contemplation of man. They had their frequent boxing matches on a public arena. EAKLY HISTORY OF THE SANDWICH ISLANDS. 323 and it was nothing uncommon to see thirty or forty left dead on the field of con- test. "As gamblers they were inveterate. The game was indulged in by every 2:>er- son, from the king of each island to the meanest of his subjects. The wager ac- companied every scene of public amusement. They gambled away their property to the last vestige of all they possessed. They staked every article of food, their grow- ing crops, the clothes they wore, their lands, wives, daughters, and even the very bones of their arms and legs — to be made into fishhooks after they were dead. These steps led to the most absolute and crushing poverty. "They had their dances, which were of such a character as not to be conceived by a civilized mind, and were accompanied by scenes which would have disgraced even Nero's revels. Nearly every night, with the gathering darkness, crowds would retire to some favorite spot, where, amid every species of sensual indulgence they would revel until the morning twilight. At such times the chiefs would lay aside their authority, and mingle with the lowest courtesan in every degree of debauchery. "Thefts, robberies, murders, infanticide, licentiousness of the most debased and debasing character, burying their infirm and aged parents alive, desertion of the sick, revolting cruelties to the unfortunate maniac, cannibalism and drunkenness, form a list of some of the traits in social life among the Hawaiians in past days. "Their drunkenness was intense. They could prepare a drink, deadly intoxicat- ing in its nature, from a mountain plant called the awa (Piper methysticum). A bowl of this disgusting liquid was always prepared and served out just as a party of chiefs were sitting down to their meals. It would sometimes send the victim into a slumber from which he never awoke. The confirmed awa drinker could be imme- diately recognized by his leprous appearance. "By far the darkest feature in their social condition was seen in the family rela- tion. Society, however, is only a word of mere accommodation, designed to express domestic relations as they then existed. ^Society' was, indeed, such a sea of pollution as cannot be well described. Marriage was unknown, and all the sacred feelings which are suggested to our minds on mention of the various social relations, such as husband and wife, parent and child, brother and sister, were to them, indeed, as though they had no existence. There was, indeed, in this respect, a dreary blank — a dark' chasm from which the soul instinctively recoils. There were, perhaps, some customs which imposed some little restraint upon the intercourse of the sexes, but those customs were easily dispensed with, and had nothing of the force of estab- lished rules. It was common for a husband to have many wives, and for a wife also to have many husbands. The nearest ties of consanguinity were but little regarded, 324 EARLY HISTOEY OF THE SAiS'DWICH ISLANDS. and among the chiefs^ especially, the connection of brother with sister, and parent" with child, were very common. For husbands to intercliange wives, and for wives to interchange husbands, was a common act of friendship, and persons who would not do this were not considered on good terms of sociability. For a man or woman to refuse a solicitation was considered an act of meanness; and this sentiment was thoroughly wrought into their minds, that, they seemed not to rid themselves of the feeling of meanness in a refusal, to feel, notwithstanding their better knowledge, that to comply was generous, liberal, and social, and to refuse reproachful and nig- gardly. It would Be impossible to enumerate or specify the crimes which emanated from this state of affairs. Their political condition w^as the very genius of despotism, systematically and deliberately conducted. Kings and chiefs weve extremely jealous of their succession, and the more noble their blood, the more they were venerated by the common people.'' Mr. Sheldon Dibble is a historian whose work was published in 1 8.1:3. He com- plains most bitterly that the natives bothered the missionaries by trying to give them the benefit of native thought. They wanted to do some of the talking, and said very childish things, and were so intent on their own thoughts that they would not listen to the preachers. But it ought not to have been held to be an offense for a procession of heathen to march to a missionary's house and tell him their thoughts. That was an honest manifestation of profound interest — the slow ripening of a harvest field. Mr. Dibble's book is printed by the Mission Seminary, and Mr. Dib- ble says, page 21: "We know that all the inhabitants of the earth descended from Noah," therefore, the Hawaiians "must once have known the great Jehova and the principles of true rehgion." But the historian says on the next page that the Hawaiians were heathen from time immemorial, for, "Go back to the very first re- puted progenitor of the Hawaiian race, and you find that the ingredients of their character are lust, anger, strife, malice, sensuality, revenge and the worship of idols." This is the elevation upon which Mr. Dibble places himself to fire upon the memory of the English navigator Captain James Cook. The first paragraph of the assault on Cook is this: "How unbounded the influence of foreign visitors upon the ignorant inhabitants- of the Pacific! If the thousands of our countrymen who visit this ocean were actu- ated by the pure principles of the religion of Jesus, how immense the good they might accomplish! But, alas! how few visitors to the AVestern hemisphere are actuated by such principles." This is 'preparatory to the condemnation of Cook in these terms: "Captain Cook allowed himself to be worshipped as a god. The people of iCealakeakua de- EASLY mSTOr.Y OF THE SANDWICH ISLANDS. 32.j clined trading with him, and loaded his ship freely with the best productions of the island. The priests approached him in a crouching attitude, uttering prayers, and exhibiting all the formalities of worship. Afier approaching him with prostra- tion the priests cast their red kapas over his shoulders and then receding a little, they presented hogs and a variety of other offerings, with long addresses rapidly enun- ciated, which were a repetition of their prayers and religious homage. "When he went on shore most of the people fled for fear of him, and others bowed down before him, with solemn reverence. He was conducted to the house of the gods, and into the sacred enclosure, and received there the highest homage. In view of this fact, and of the death of Captain Cook, which speedily ensued, who can fail being admonished to give to God at all times, and even among barbarous tribes, the glory which is his due? Captain Cook might have directed the rude and ignorant natives to the great Jehovah, instead of receiving divine homage himself. "Kalaniopuu, the king, arrived from Maui on the 24th of January, and imme- diately laid a tabu on the canoes, which prevented the women from A^siting the ship, and consequently the men came on shore in great numbers, gratifying their infamous purposes in exchange for pieces of iron and small looking-glasses. Some of the women washed the coating from the bac^v of the glasses much to their regret, when they found that the reflecting property was thus destroyed. "The king, on his arrival, as well as the people, treated Captain Cook with much kindness, gave him feather cloaks and fly brushes and paid him divine honors. This adoration, it is painful to relate, was received without remonstrance. I shall speak here somewhat minutely of the death of Captain Cook, as it develops some traits of the heathen character, and the influence under which the heathen suffer from foreign intercourse.^' After setting forth the horrible character of the natives. Captain Cook is con- demned and denounced because he did not refuse the homage of the ferocious savages, paid him as a superior creature. One of Cook's troubles was the frantic passion the islanders had to steal iron. The common people were the property of the chiefs, and they had no other sense of possession. They gave away what they had, but took what they wanted. Mr. Dibble shows his animus when he charges that Cook did not give the natives the real value of their hogs and fruit, and also that he had no right to stop pilferers in canoes by declaring and enforcing a blockade. This is a trifling technicality much insisted upon. Dibble's account of the death of Cook is this: "A canoe came from an adjoining district, bound within the bay. In the canoe were two chiefs of some rank, Kekuhaupio and Kalimu. The canoe was fired upon B26 EAELY HISTORY OF THE SANDWICH ISLANDS. from one of the boats and Kalimu was killed. Kekuhaupio made the greatest speed till he reached the place of the king, where Captain Cook also was, and communi- cated the intelligence of the death of the chief. The attendants of the king were enraged and showed signs of hostility, but were restrained by the thought that Captain Cook w^as a god. At that instant a warrior, with a spear in his hand, ap- proached Captain Cook and was heard to say that the boats in the harbor had killed his brother, and he would be revenged. Captain Cook, from his enraged appearance and that of the multitude, was suspicious of him, and fired upon him with his pistol. Then followed a scene of confusion, and in the midst Captain Cook being hit with a stone, and perceiving the man who threw it, shot him dead. He also struck a certain chief with his sword, whose name was Kalaimanokahoowaha. The chief instantly seized Captain Cook with a strong hand, designing merely to hold him and not to take his life; for he supposed him to be a god and that he could not die. Captain Cook struggled to free himself from the grasp, and as he was about to fall uttered a groan. The people immediately exclaimed, "He groans — he is not a god," and instantly slew him. Such was the melancholy death of Captain Cook. "Immediately the men in the boat commenced a deliberate fire upon the crowd. They had refrained in a measure before, for fear of killing their Captain. Many of the natives were killed." "Historian Dibble does not notice the evidence that Cook lost his life by turning to his men in the boats, ordering them not to fire. It was at that moment he was stabbed in the back. Dibble represents the facts as if to justify the massacre of the great navigator, because he allowed the heathen to think he was one of their gang of gods. But this presumption ought not to have been allowed to excuse prevarica- tion about testimony. The importance of Dibble's history is that it is representa- tive. He concludes with this eloquent passage: "From one heathen nation we may learn in a measure the wants of all. And we ought not to restrict our view, but, look at the wide world. T^ do then for all nations what I have urged in be- half of the Sandwich Islands, how great and extensive a work! How vast the num- ber of men and how immense tlie amount of means which seem necessary to elevate all nations, and gain over the whole earth to the permanent dominion of the Lord Jesus Christ! Can 300,000,000 of pagan children and 3'Outh be trained and in- structed by a few hands? Can the means of instructing them be furnished by the mere farthings and pence of the church? Will it not be some time yet before minis- ters and church members will need to be idle a moment for the want of work? Is there any danger of our being cut off from the blessed privilege either of giving or of going? There is a great work yet to be done — a noble work — a various and &. RIDING BUFFALOES THROUGH GROVES OF DATE PALMS. A NATIVE HOUSE. GREAT BRIDGE AT MANILA. NATIVES FISHIXG FROM A CANAL BOAT. EARLY HISTORY OF THE SANDWICH ISLAXDS. 327 difficult work-a work worthy of God's power, God's resources, and God's wisdom What Christendom has as yet done is scarcely worthy of being called a commence- ment. When God shall bring such energies into action as shall be commensurate with the greatness of the work— when he shall cause every redeemed sinner, by the abundant influence of His Holy Spirit, to lay himself out wholly in the great enterprise, then there will be a sight of moral sublimity that shall rivet the gaze of angels." We quote this writer as to what became of the remains of Cook: "The body of Captain Cook was carried into the interior of the island, the bones secured accord- ing to their custom, and the flesh burned in the tire. The heart, liver, etc., of Cap- tain Cook, were stolen and eaten by some hungry children, who mistook them in the night for the inwards of a dog. The names of the children were Kupa, Mohoole and Kaiwikokoole. These men are now all dead. The last of the number died two years since at the station ^of Lahaina. Some of the bones of Captain Cook were sent on board his ship, in compliance with the urgent demands of the officers; and some were kept by the priests as objects of worship." The "heart, liver, etc.," 'were ' of course given to the children to eat! The bones are still hidden, and presumably not much worshiped. The first of the remains of Captain Cook given up was a mass of his bloody flesh, cut as if from a slaughtered ox. After some time there were other fragments, including one of his hands which had a well known scar, and perfectly identified it. Along with this came the story of burning flesh, and denials of cannibalism. Mr. Dibble speaks of Cook's "consummate folly and out- rageous tyranny of placing a blockade upon a heathen bay, which the natives could not possibly be supposed either to understand or appreciate." That blockade, hke others, was understood when enforced. The historian labors to work out a cJse to justify the murder of Cook because he received worship. As to the acknowledgment of Cook as the incarnation of Lono, in the Hawaiian Pantheon, Captain King says: "Before I proceed to relate the adoration that was paid to Captain Cook,°and the peculiar ceremonies with which he was received on this fatal island, it will be nec- essary to describe the Moral, situated, as I have already mentioned, at the south side of the beach at Kakooa (Kealakeakua). It 'was a square solid pile of stones, about forty yards long, twenty broad, and fourteen in height. The top was flat and well paved, and surrounded by a wooden rail, on which were fixed the skulls of the captives sacrificed on the death of their chiefs. In the center of the area stood a ruin- ous old building of wood, connected with the rail on each side by a stone wall, which next divided the whole space into two parts. On the side next the country were five poles, upward of twenty feet high, supporting an irregular kind of scaffold; 328 EAELY HISTOKY OF THE SAXDWICH ISLANDS. on the opposite side toward tlie sea, stood two small Iioiises with a covered communi- cation. '•'AVe were conducted by Koah to the top of this pile by an easy ascent leading from the beach to the northwest corner of the area. At the entrance we saw two large wooden images, with features violently distorted, and a long piece of carved wood of a conical form inverted, rising from the top of their heads; the rest was without form and wrapped round wfth red cloth. We were here met by a tall young man with a long beard, Avho presented Captain Cook to the images, and after chanting a kind of hymn, in which he was joined by Koah, they led us to that end of the Moral where the five poles were fixed. At the foot of them were twelve images ranged in a semicircular form, and before the middle figure stood a high stand or table, exactly resembling the AYhatta of Othaheiti, on which lay a putrid hog, and under it pieces of sugar cane, cocoanuts, bread fruit, plantains and sweet potatoes Koah having placed the Captain under the stand, took down the hog and held it toward him; and after having a second time addressed him in a long speech, pro- nounced with much vehemence and rapidity, he let it fall on the ground and led him to the scaffolding, w^hich they began to climb together, not without great risk of falling. At this time we saw coming in solemn procession, at the entrance of the top of the Moral, ten men carrying a live hog and a large piece of red cloth. Being advanced a few paces, they stopped and prostrated themselves; and Kaireekeea, the young man above mentioned, went to them, and receiving the cloth carried it to Koah, who wrapped it around the Cap'tain, and afterwards offered him the hog, which was brought by Kaireekeea with the same ceremony. "Whilst Captain Cook was aloft in this awkward situation, swathed round with red cloth, and with difficulty keeping his hold amongst the pieces of rotten scaf- folding, Kaireekeea and Koah began their office, chanting sometimes in concert and sometimes alternately. This lasted a considerable time; at length Koah let the hog drop, when he and the Captain descended together. He then led him to the images before mentioned, and, having said something to each in a sneering tone, snapping his fingers at them as he passed, he Brought him to that in the center, which, from its being covered with red cloth, appeared to be in greater estimation than the rest. Before this figure he prostrated himself and kissed it, desiring Cap- tain Cook to do the same, who suffered himself to be directed by Koah throughout the whole of this ceremony. "We were now led back to the other dlAdsion of the ^Eorai, where there was a space ten or twelve feet square, sunk about three feet below the level of the area. Into this we descended, and Captain Cook was seated between two wooden idols, EARLY HISTORY OF THE SAXDWICH ISLANDS. 329 Koali supporting one of his arms, whilst I was desired to support the other. At this time arrived a second procession of natives, carrying a baked hog and a pudding, some bread fruit, cocoanuts and other vegetables. When they approached us Kai- reekeea put himself at their head, and presenting the pig to Captain Cook in the usual manner, began the same Idnd of chant as before, his companions making regular responses. AYe observed that after every response their parts became grad- ually shorter, till, toward the close, Kaireekeea^s consisted of only two or three words, while the rest answered by the word Orono. ^'When this offering was concluded, which lasted a'ciuarter of an hour, the na- tives sat down fronting us, and began to cut up the baked hog, to peel the vegetables and break the cocoanuts; whilst others employed themselves in brewing the awa, which is done by chewing it in the same manner as at the Friendly Islands. Kairee- keea then took part of the kernel of a cocoanut, which he chewed, and wrapping it in a piece of cloth, rubbed wdth it the Captain's face, head, hands, arms and shoul- ders. The awa was then handed around, and after we had tasted it Koah and Pareea began to pull the flesh of the hog in pieces and put it into our mouths. I had no great objection to being fed by Pareea, who was very cleanly in his person, but Captain Cook, who was served by Koah, recollecting the putrid hog, could not swallow a morsel; and his reluctance, as may be supposed, was not diminished when the old man, according to his own mode of civility had chewed it for him. "When this ceremony was finished, which Captain Cook put an end to as soon as he decently could, we quitted the Moral.'' Evidently the whole purpose of Captain Cook in permitting this performance, was to flatter and gratify the natives and make himself strong to command them. The Captain himself was sickened, and got away as quickly as he could without giving offense. This was not the only case in which the native priests presented the navigator as a superior being. Perhaps the view the old sailor took of the style of ceremony was as there were so many gods, one more or less did not matter. Cook never attached importance to the freaks of superstition, except so far as it might be made useful in keeping the bloody and beastly savages in check. Bearing upon this point we quote W. D. Alexander's "Brief History of the Hawaiian People,'' pages 33-34: "Infanticide was fearfully prevalent, and there were few of the older women at the date of the abolition of idolatry who had not been guilty of it. It was the opinion of those best informed that two-thirds of all the children born were de- stroyed in infancy by their parents. They were generally buried alive, in many cases in the very houses occupied by their unnatural parents. On all the islands the num- i^ EARLY HISTOEY OF THE SANDWICH ISLAISTDS. tier of males was mucli greater than that of females, in consequence of the girls being more frequently destroyed than the boys. The principal reason given for it was laziness — unwillingness to take the trouble of rearing children. It was a very eommon practice for parents to give away their children io any persons who were willing to adopt them. '^^JN'o regular parental discipline was maintained, and the children were too often left to follow their own inclinations and to become familiar with the lowest vices. "^^eg-lect of the helpless. Among the common people old age was despised. The sick and those who had become helpless from age were sometimes abandoned to die or put to death. Insane people were also sometimes stoned to death." Again we quote Alexander's History, page 49: '"Several kinds of food were forbidden to the women on pain of death, viz., pork, bananas, cocoanuts, turtles, and certain kinds of fish, as the ulna, the humu, the shark, the hihimanu or sting-ray, etc. The men of the poorer class often formed Si sort of eating club apart from their wives. These laws were rigorously enforced. At Honaunau, Hawaii, two young girls of the highest rank, Kapiolani and Keoua, liaving been detected in the act of eating a banana, their kahu, or tutor, was held re- sponsible, and put to death by drowning. Shortly before the abolition of the tabus, a little child had one of her eyes scooped out for the same offense. About the same time a woman was put to death for entering the eating hquse of her husband, al- |;liough she was tipsy at the time.'^ Captain Cook seems to have committed the unpardonable sin in not beginning the stated work of preaching the gospel a long generation before the missionaries arrived, and the only sound reason for this is found in Dibble's History, in his state- .ment that the islanders steadily degenerated until the missions were organized. Writers of good repute, A. Fornander, chief of them, are severe with Captain Coo"k on -account of his alleged greed, not paying enough for the red feathers woven into fanciful forms. Perhaps that is a common fault in the transactions of civilized men with barbarians. William Penn is the only man wffli a great reputation for dealing fairly with American Eed Men, and he was not impoverished by it. Cook gave nails for hogs, and that is mentioned in phrases that are malicious. Iron was to the islanders the precious metal, and they were not cheated. A long drawn out efforthas been made to impress the world thatCook thought himself almost a god,and was a monster. The natives gave to the wonderful people who came to them in ships, liberally of their plenty, and received in return presents that pleased them, articles ©f utility. Beads came along at a later day. The natives believed Cook one of the heroes of the imagination that they called gods. He sought to propitiate them EAELY HISTORY OF THE SANDWICH ISLANDS. 331 end paid for fruit and meat in iron and showy trifles. His policy of progress was to introduce domestic animals. Note tlie temper of Mr. Abraham Fornander^ a man who has meant honesty of statement, but whose information was perverted: "And how did Captain Cook requite this boundless hospitalit}^, that never once made default during his long stay of seventeen days in Kealakeakua, these mag- nificent presents o^ immense value, this delicate and spontaneous attention to every' want, this friendship of the chiefs and priests, this friendliness of the commoQ people? By imposing on their good nature to the utmost hmit of its ability to re- spond to the greedy and constant calls of their new friends; by shooting at one of the king's officers for endeavoring to enforce a law of the land, an edict of Ms sovereign that happened to be unpalatable to the new comers, and caused theni some temporary inconvenience, after a week's profusion and unbridled license; by a liberal exhibition of his force and the»meanest display of his bounty; by giving the king a linen shirt and a cutlass in return for feather cloaks and helmets, whicb, irrespective of their value as insignia of the highest nobility in the land, were worth singly at least from five to ten thousand dollars, at present price of the feathers, not counting the cost of manufacturing; by a reckless disregard of the proprieties of ordinary intercourse, even between civilized and savage man, and a wanton insult to what he reasonably may have supposed to have been the religious sentiments of his hosts." This is up to the mark of a criminal lawyer retained to prove by native testimony that Captain James Cook was not murdered, but executed for cause^ The great crime of Cook is up to this point that of playing that he was one of the Polynesian gods. Fornander says: "When the sailors carried off, not only the rail- ing of the temple, but also the idols of the gods within it, even the large-hearted patience of Kaoo gave up, and he meekly requested that the central idol at least might be restored. Captain King failed to perceive that the concession of the priests was that of a devotee to his saint. The priests would not sell their rehgion? emblems and belongings for "thirty pieces of silver," or any remuneration, but they were willing to offe;- up the entire Heiau, and themselves on the top of it, as a holocaust to Lono, if he had requested it. So long as Cook was regarded as a god in their eyes they could not refuse liim. And though they exhibited no resentment at the request, the want of delicacy and consideration on the part of Captain Cook is none the less glaring. After his death, and when the illusion of godship had sub- sided, his spoliation of the very Heiau in which he had been deified was not on« of the least of the grievances which native annalists laid uj) against him."' 332 EARLY HISTORY OF THE SAXDWICH ISLANDS. Contrast this flagranc}^ in advocacy of the cause of the barbarous natives with the last words Cook wrote in his journal. We quote from "A Voyage to the Pacific Ocean/' by Captain James Cook, F. R. S., (Vol. IL, pages 251-252): "As it was of the last importance to procure a supply of provisions at these islands; and experience having taught me that I could have no chance to succeed in this, if a free trade with the natives were to be allowed; that is, if it were left to every man's discretion to trade for what he pleased, and in what manner he pleased; for this substantial reason, I now published an order prohibiting all per- sons from trading, except such as should be appointed by me and Captain Clarke; and even these were enjoined to trade only for provisions and refreshments. Women were also forobidden to be admitted into the ships, except under certain restric- tions. But the evil I intended to prevent, by this regulation, I soon found had already got amongst them. "I stood in again the next morning till within three or four miles of the land, where w^e were met with a number of canoes laden with provisions. We brought to, and continued trading with the people in them till four in the afternoon, when, having got a pretty good supply, we made sail and stretched off to the northward. "I had never met with a behavior so free from reserve and suspicion in my intercourse with any tribe of savages as we experienced in the people of this island. It was very common for them to send up into the ship the several articles they brought for barter; afterward, they would come in themselves and make their bar- gains on the quarter-deck. "We spent the night as usual, standing off and on. It happened that four men and ten women who had come on board the preceding day still remained with us. As I did not like the company of the latter, I stood in shore toward noon, principally with a view to get them out of the ship; and, some canoes coming off, I took that .oj)portunity of sending away our guests. "In the evening Mr. Bligh returned and reported that he had found a bay in which was good anchorage, and fresh water in a situation tolerably easy to be come at. Into this bay I resolved to carry the ships, there to refit and supply ourselves with every refreshment that the place could afford. As night approached the greater part of our visitors retired to the shore, but numbers of them requested our permission to sleep on board. Curiosity was not the only motive, at least with some, for the next morning several things were missing, which determined me not to entertain so manv another nio-ht. EAELY HISTORY OF THE SAXDAVICH ISLANDS. eS33 ^'At eleven o'clock in the forenoon we anchored in the bay, which is called by the natives Karakaooa, (Kealakeakua), in thirteen fathoms water, over a sandy bottom, and aboiat a quarter of a mile from the northeast shore. In this situation the south point of the bay bore south by west, and the north point west half north. We moored with the stream-anchor and cable, to the northward, unbent the sails and struck yards and topmasts. The ships continued to be much crowded with natives, and were surrounded by a multitude of canoes. I had nowhere, in the course of my voyages, seen so numerous a body of people assembled in one place. For, besides those who had come off to us in canoes, all the shore of the bay was covered with spectators, and many hundreds were swimming around the ships like shoals of fish. We could not but be struck with the singularity of this scene, and perhaps there were few on board who lamented our having failed in our endeavors to find a northern passage homevv^ard last summer. To this disappoint- ment w^e owed our having it in our power to revisit the Sandwich Islands, and to enrich our voyage with a discovery which, though the last, seemed in many re- spects to be the most important that had hitherto been made by Europeans, through- out the extent of the Pacific Ocean.'^ This is the end of Cook's wTiting. His murder followed immediately. He fell by the hands of people for whom his good will w^as shown in his last words. The concluding pages of the journal answer all the scandals his enemies have so busily circulated. There is a gleam of humor that shows like a thread of gold in the midst of the somber tragedies of the Sandwich Islands, and we must not omit to extract it from "The Voyage of Discovery Around the World" by Captain George Van- couver, when he spent some time in Hawaii, and gives two bright pictures — one of a theatrical performance, and the other the happy settlement of the disordered domestic relations of a monarch. A GIFTED NATIVE ACTEESS AND SOME ROYAL DRAMATISTS. "There was a performance by a single young woman of the name of Puckoo^ whose person and manners were both very agreeable. Her dress, notwithstanding the heat of the weather, consisted of an immense quantity of cloth, which was wreaths of black, red and yellow feathers; but, excepting these, she wore no dress a manner as to give a pretty effect to the variegated pattern of the cloth; and was otherways disposed with great taste. Her head and neck were decorated with wreaths of black, red and yellow feathers; but, excepting these, she wore no dress 834 EARLY HISTORY OF THE SANDWICH ISLANDS. from the waist upwards. Her ankles, and nearly half way up her legs, were deco- rated with several folds of cloth, widening upwards, so that the upper parts ex- tended from the leg at least four inches all round; this was encompassed by a piece of net work, wrought very close, from the meshes of which were hung the small teeth of dogs, giving this part of her dress the appearance of an ornamented funnel. On her wrists she wore bracelets made of the tusks of the largest hogs. These were highly polished and fixed close together in a ring, the concave sides of the tusks being outwards; and their ends reduced to a uniform length, curving naturally away from the center, were by no means destitute of ornamental effect. Thus equipped, her appearance on the stage, before she uttered a single word, ex- cited considerable ajoplause. "These amusements had hitherto been confined to such limited performances; but this afternoon was to be dedicated to one of a more splendid nature, in which some ladies of consequence, attendants on the court of Tamaahmaah, were to per- form the principal parts. Great pains had been taken, and they had gone through many private rehearsals, in order that the exhibition this evening might be worthy of the public attention; on the conclusion of which, I purposed by a display of fireworks, to make a return for the entertainment they had afforded us. "About four o'clock we were informed it was time to attend the royal dames; their theatre, or rather place of exhibition, was about a mile to the southward of our tents, in a small square, surrounded by houses, and sheltered by trees, a situa- tion as well chosen for the performance, as for the accommodationo of the specta- tors; who, on a moderate computation, could not be estimated at less than four thousand, of all ranks and descriptions of persons. "The dress of the actresses was something like that worn by Puckoo, though made ©f superior materials, and disposed with more taste and elegance. A very con- siderable quantity of their finest cloth was prepared for the occasion; of this their lower garment was formed, which extended from their waist half down their legs,, and was so plaited as fo appear very much like a hoop petticoat. This seemed the most difficult part of their dress to adjust, for Tamaahmaah, who was considered to be a profound critic, was frequently appealed to by the women, and his direc- tions were implicitly followed in many little alterations. Instead of the ornaments- of cloth and net-work, decorated with dogs' teeth, these ladies had each a green wreath made of a kind of bind weed, twisted together in different parts like a rope, which was wound round from the ankle, nearly to the lower part of the petticoat. On their wrists they wore no bracelets nor other ornaments, but across their necks EARLY HISTORY OF THE SANDWICH ISLANDS. 335 and shoulders were green sashes, very nicely made, with the broad leaves of the tee, a plant that produces a very luscious sweet root, the size of a yam. This part of their dress was put on the last by each of the actresses; and the party being now fully attired, the king and queen, who had been present the whole time of their dressino-, were obliged to withdraw, greatly to the mortification oj the latter, who would gladly have taken her part as a performer, in which sTie was reputed to excel very highly. But the royal pair were compelled to retire, even from the ex- hibition, as they are prohibited by law from attending such amusements, except- ing on the festival of the new year. Indeed, the performance of this day was con- trary to the established rules of the island^ but being intended as a compliment ta us, the innovation was permitted. "As their majesties withdrew, the ladies of rank and the principal chiefs began to make their appearance. The reception of the former by the multitude was marked by a degree of respect that I had not before seen amongst any inhabitants of the countries in the Pacific Ocean. The audience assembled at this time were standing in rows, from fifteen to twenty feet deep, so close as to touch each other; but these ladies no sooner approached in their rear, in any accidental direction, than a passage was instantly made for them and their attendants to pass through in the most commodious manner to their respective stations, where they seated them- selves on the ground, which w^as covered with mats, in the most advantageous sit- uation for seeing and hearing the performers. Most of these ladies were of a cor- pulent form, which, assisted by their stately gait, the dignity with which they moved, and the number of their pages, who followed with fans to court the refresh- ing breeze, or with fly-flaps to disperse the offending insects, announced their con- sequence as the wives, daughters, sisters, or other near relations of the principal chiefs, who, however, experienced no such marks of respect or attention themselves; being obliged to make their way through the spectators in the best manner they were able. "The time devoted to the decoration of the actresses extended beyond the limits of the quiet patience of the audience, who exclaimed two or three times, from all quarters, "Hoorah, hoorah, poaliealee,^' signifying that it would be dark and black night before the performance would begin. But the audience here, like similar ones in other countries, attending with a pre-disposition to be pleased, was in good humor, and was easily appeased, by the address of our faithful and devoted friend Trywhookee, who was the conductor of the ceremonies, and sole manager on this occasion. He came forward and apologized by a speech that produced a general 336 EAELY HISTOEY OF THE SAXDAVICH ISLANDS. laugh, and, causing the music to begin, we heard no further murmurs. "The band consisted of five men, all standing up, each with a highly polished wooden spear in the left, and a small piece of the same material, equally well fin- ished, in the right hand; with this they beat on the spear, as an accompaniment to their own voices in songs, that varied both as to time and measure, especially the latter; yet their voices, and the sounds produced from the rude instruments, which differed according to the place on which the tapering spear was struck, ap- peared to accord very well. Having engaged us a short time in this vocal perform- ance, the court ladies made their appearance, and were received with shouts of the greatest applause. The musicians retired a few paces, and the actresses took their station before them. "The heroine of the piece, which consisted of four or five acts, had once shared the affections and embraces of Tamaahmaah, but was now married to an inferior chief, whose occupation in the household was that of the charge of the king's ap- parel. This lady was distinguished by a green wreath round the crown of the head; next to her was the captive daughter of Titeeree; the third a younger sister to the queen, the wife of Crymamahoo, who, being of the most exalted rank, stood in the middle. On each side of these were two of inferior quality, making in all seven actresses. They drew themselves up in a line fronting that side of the square that was occupied by ladies of quality and the chiefs. These were completely detached from the populace, not by any partition, but, as it were, by the respectful consent of the lower orders of the assembly; not one of which trespassed or produced the least inaccommodation. "This representation, like that before attempted to be described, was a compound of speaking and singing; the subject of which was enforced by gestures and actions. The piece was in honor of a captive princess, whose name was Crycowculleneaow; and on her name being pronounced, every one present, men as well as Women, who wore any ornaments above their waists, were obliged to take them off, though the captive lady was at least sixty miles distant. This mark of respect was unobserved by the actresses whilst engaged in the performance; but the instant any one sat down, or at the close of the act, they were also obliged to comply with this mys- terious ceremony. "The variety of attitudes into which these women threw themselves, with the rapidity of their action, resembled no amusement in any other part of the world within my knowledge, by a comparison with which I might be enabled to convey some idea of the stage effect thus produced, particularly in the three first parts. EARLY HISTORY OF THE SANDWICH ISLANDS. 337 in which there appeared much correspondence and liarmony between the tone of their voices and the disphiy of tlieir limbs. One or two of the performers being not quite so perfect as the rest, afforded us. an opportunity of exercising our judg- ment by comparison; and it must be confessed, that the ladies who most excelled, exhibited a degree of graceful action, for the attainment of which it is difficult to account. ^^In each of these first parts the songs, attitudes and actions appeared to me of greater variety than I had before noticed amongst the people of the great South Sea nation on any former occasion. The whole, though I am unequal to its de- scription, was supported with a wonderful degree of spirit and vivacity; so much indeed that some of their exertions were made with such a degree of agitating vio- lence as seemed to carry the performers beyond what their strength was able to sustain; and had the performance finished with the third act, we should have re- tired from their theatre with a much higher idea of the moral tendency of their drama, than was conveyed by the offensive, libidinous scene, exhibited by the la- dies in the concluding part. The language of the song, no doubt, corresponded with the obscenity of their actions; which were carried to a degree of extravagance that were calculated to produce nothing but disgust, even to the most licentious." From ^^A Voyage of Discovery," by Captain George Vancouver: THE RECONCILIATION BY STRATEGY OF A KING WITH ONE OF HIS QUEENS. "Tahowmotoo was amongst the most constant of our guests; but his daughter, the disgraced queen, seldom visited our side of the bay. I was not, however, ig- norant of her anxious desire for a reconcihation with Tamaahmaah; nor was the same wish to be misunderstood in the conduct and behavior of the king, in whose good opinion and confidence I had now acquired such a predominancy that I be- came acquainted with his most secret inclinations and apprehensions. "His unshaken attachment and unaltered affection for Tahowmannoo was con- fessed with a sort of internal self conviction of her innocence. He acknowledged with great candor that his own conduct had not been exactly such as warranted his having insisted upon a separation from his queen; that althotigh it could not authorize, it in some measure pleaded in excuse for her infidelity; and for his own, he alleged, that his high rank and supreme authority was a sort of licence for such indulgences. '^An accommodation which I considered to be mutually wished by both parties 338 EARLY HISTORY OF THE SANDWICH ISLANDS. was urged in the strongest terms by the queen's relations. To effect this desira- ble purpose, my interference was frequently solicited by them; and as it concurred with my own inclination, I resolved on embracing the first favorable opportunity to use my best endeavors for bringing a reconciliation about. For although, on our former visit, Tahowmannoo had been regarded with the most favorable im- pressions, yet, whether from her distresses, or because she had really improved in her personal accomplishments, I will not take upon me to determine, but certain it is that one or both of these circumstances united had so far prepossessed us all in her favor, and no one more so than myself, that it had long been the general wish to see her exalted again to her former dignities. This desire was probably not a little heightened by the regard we entertained for the happiness and repose of our noble and generous friend Tamaahmaah, wdio was likely to be materially affected not only in his domestic comforts, but in his political situation, by receiv- ing again and reinstating his consort in her former rank and consequence. "I was convinced beyond all doubt that there were two or three of the most considerable chiefs, of the island whose ambitious views were inimical to the in- terests and authority of Tamaahmaah; and it was much to be apprehended that if the earnest solicitations of the queen's father (whose condition and importance was next in consequence to that of the king) should continue to be rejected, that there could be little doubt of his adding great strength and influence to the dis- contented and turbulent chiefs, which wpuld operate highly to the prejudice, if not totally to the destruction, of Tamaahmaah's regal power; especially as the ad- verse party seemed to form a constant opposition, consisting of a minority by no means to be despised by the executive power, and which appeared to be a principal constituent part of the Owhyean politics. "For these substantial reasons, whenever he w^as disposed to listen to such dis- course, I did not cease to urge the importance and necessity of his adopting measures so highly essential to his happiness as a man, and to his power, interest and authority as the supreme chief of the island. All this he candidly acknowledged, but his pride threw impediments in the way of a reconciliation, which were hard to be re- moved. He would not himself become the immediate agent; and although he con- sidered it important that the negotiation should be conducted by some one of the principal chiefs in his fullest confidence, yet, to soHcit their good offices after having rejected their former overtures with disdain, was equally hard to recon- cile to his feelings. I stood nearly in the same situation with his favorite friends: but being thoroughly convinced of the sincerity of his wishes, I spared him the EAELY HISTORY OF THE SAXDWICH ISLAXDS. 339 mortification of soliciting the oflfices lie had rejected, by again proffering my services. To this he instantly consented, and observed that no proposal could Have met his mind so completely; since, by effecting a reconciliation through my friendship, no umbrage could be taken at his having declined the several offers of his country- men by any of the individuals; whereas, had this object been accomplished by any one of the chiefs, it would probably have occasioned jealousy and discontent in the minds of the others. ''All, however, was not yet complete; the apprehension that some concession might be suggested, or expected, on his part, preponderated against every other consideration; and he would on no account consent, that it should appear that he had been privy to the business, or that it had been by his desire that a negotia- tion had been undertaken for this happy purpose, but that the whole should have the appearance of being purely the result of accident. "To this end it was determined that I should invite the queen, with several of her relations and friends, on board the Discovery, for the purpose of presenting them with some trivial matters, as tokens of my friendship and regard; and that, whilst thus employed, our conversation should be directed to ascertain whether an accommodation was still an object to be desired. That on this appearing to be the general wish, Tamaahmaah would instantly repair on board in a hasty man- ner, as if he had something extraordinary to communicate; that I should appear to rejoice at this accidental meeting, and by instantly uniting their hands, bring the reconciliation to pass without the least discussion or explanation on either side. But from his extreme solicitude lest he should in any degree be suspected of being concerned in this previous arrangement, a diffictilty arose how to make him ac- quainted with t]\e result of the proposed conversation on board, which could not be permitted by a verbal message; at length, after some thought^ he took up two pieces of paper, and of his own accord made certain marks with a pencil on each of them^ and then iehvered them to me. The difference of these marks he could well recollect; th^ one was to indicate that the result of my inquiries was agreeable to his wishes, pr/1 the other that it Avas contrary. In the event of my making use of the former. Le proposed that it should not be sent on shore secretly, but in an open and declared manner, and by way of a joke, as a present to his Owhyhean majesty. The natural gaiety of disposition which generally prevails among these islanders, would render this supposed disappointment of the king a subject for mirth, would in some degree prepare the company for his visit, and completely do away with every idea of its being the effect of a preconcerted measure. 340 EAELY HISTOEY OF THE SA^tdwICH ISLANDS. "This plan was accordingly carried into execution on the following Monday. Whilst the queen and her part}-^ totally ignorant of the contrivance^ were receiving the compliments I had intended them, their good humor and pleasantry were in- finitely heightened by the jest I proposed to pass upon the king, in sending him a piece of paper only, carefully wrapped up in some cloth of their own manufacture, accompanied by a message; importing, that as I was then in the act of distributing favors to my Owhyhean friends, I had not been unmindful of his majesty. "Tamaahmaah no sooner received the summons, than he hastened on board, and, with his usual vivacity, exclaimed before he made his appearance that he was come to thank me for the present I had sent him, and for my goodness in not having forgotten him on this occasion. This was heard by everyone in the cabin before he entered; and all seemed to enjoy the joke except the poor queen, who appeared to -be much agitated at the idea of being again in his presence. The in- stant that he saw her his countenance expressed great surprise, he became imme- diately silent, and attempted to retire; but, having posted m3'self for the especial purpose of preventing his departure, I caught his hand and, joining it with the queen's, their reconciliation was instantly completed. This was fully demonstrated^ not only by the tears that involuntarily stole down the cheeks of both as they embraced each other and mutually expressed the satisfaction they experienced; but by the behavior of every individual present, whose feelings on the occasion were not to be repressed; whilst their sensibility testified the happiness which this appar- ently fortuitous event had produced. "A short pause, produced by an event so unexpected, was succeeded by the sort of good humor that such a happy circumstance would naturally inspire; the con- versation soon became general, cheerful and lively, in which the artifice imagined to have been imposed upon the king bore no small share. A little refreshment from a few glasses of wine concluded the scene of this successful meeting. "After the queen had acknowledged in the most grateful terms the weighty ob- ligations which she felt for my services on this occasion, I was surprised by her saying, as we were all preparing to go on shore, that she had still a very great favor to request; which was, that I should obtain from Tamahmaah a solemn prom- ise that on her return to his habitation he would not beat her. The great cor- diality with which the reconciliation had taken place, and the happiness that each of them had continued to express in consequence of it, led me at first to consider this entreaty of the queen as a jest only; but in this I was mistaken, for, notwith- standing that Tamaahmaah readily complied with my solicitation, and assured me EARLY HISTORY OF THE SAXDWICH ISLAXDS. 341 nothing of the kind shoukl take phice, yet Tahowmannoo woukl not be satisfied t\'ithout my accompanying them home to the royal residence, where I had the pleasure of seeing her restored to all her former honors and privileges, highly to the satisfaction of all the king's friends, but to the utter mortification of those who by their scandalous reports and misrepresentations had been the cause of the un- fortunate separtion. "The domestic affairs of Tamaahmaah having thus taken so happy a turn, his mind was more at liberty for political considerations; and the cession of Owhyhee to his Britannic Majesty now became an object of his serious concern." Captain Cook makes a strong plea in his journal that he was the very original discoverer of the Sandwich Islands. Referring to the wonderful extent of the sur-* face of the earth in which the land is occupied by the Polynesial race, he exclaims: "How shall we account for this nation^s having spread itself, in so many de- tached islands, so widely disjoined from each other, in every quarter of the Pacific Ocean! We find it, from New Zealand in the South, as far as the Sandwich Islands, to the North! And, in another direction, from Easter Islands to the Hebrides! That is, over an extent of sixty degrees of latitude, or twelve hundred leagues, North and South! And eighty-three degrees of longitude, or sixteen hundred and sixty leagues. East and West! How much farther, in either direction, its colonies reach, is not known; but what we know already, in consequence of this and our former voyage, v^arrants our pronouncing it to be, though perhaps not the most numerous, certainly, by far, the most extensive, nation upon earth. "Had the Sandwich Islands been discovered at an early period by the Span- iards, there is little doubt that they would have taken advantage of so excellent a situation, and have made use of Atooi, or some other of the islands, as a refresh- ing place to the ships, that sail annually from Acapulco for Manilla. They lie al- most midway between the first place and Guam, one of the Ladrones, which is at present their only port in traversing this vast ocean; and it would not have been a week's sail out of their common route to have touched at them; which could have been done without running the least hazard of losing the passage, as they are suf- ficiently within the verge of the easterly trade wind. An acquaintance witli the Sandwich Islands would have been equally favorable to our Buccaneers, wlio used sometimes to pass from the coast of America to the Ladrones, with a stock of food and water scarcely sufficient to preserve Hfe. Here they might always have found plenty, and have been within a month's sure sail of the very part of California 342 EAELY HISTORY OF THE SANDWICH ISLANDS. which the Manilla ship is obliged to make, or else have returned to the coast of America, thoroughh' refitted, after an absence of two months. How happ}' would Lord Anson have been, and what hardships he would have avoided, if he had known that there was a group of islands half way between America and Tinian, where all his wants could have been effectually supplied; and in describing which the elegant historian of that voyage would have presented his reader with a more agreeable picture than I have been able to draw in this chapter." And yet there seems to be reason for believing that there was a Spanish ship cast away on one of the Hawaiian group, and that their descendants are distinctly marked men yet: There was also a white man and woman saved from the sea at some unknown period, of course since Noah, and they multiplied and replenished, and the islanders picked up somewhere a knack for doing things in construction of boats and the weaving of mats that hint at a crude civilization surviving in. a mass of barbarianism. Captain George Dixon names the islands discovered by Captain Cook on his last voyage: "Owh3'hee (Hawaii), the principal, is the first to the southward and eastward, the rest run in a direction nearly northwest. The names of the principals are Mowee (Maui), Morotoy (Molokai), Eanai (Lanai), Whahoo (Oahu), Attooi (Kauai), and Oneehow (Niihau)." This account Dixon gives of two curious and rather valuable words: "The moment a chief concludes a bargain, he repeats the word Coocoo thrice, with quick- ness, and is immediately answered by all the people in his canoe with the word Whoah, 'pronounced in a tone of exclamation, but with greater or less energy, in proportion as the bargain he has made is approved." The great and celebrated Kamehameha, who consolidated the government of the islands, did it by an act of treachery and murder, thus told in Alexander's history: 'The Assassination of Keoua. — Toward the end of the year 1791 two of Kame- hameha's chief counsellors, Kamanawa and Keaweaheulu, were sent on an embassy to Keoua at Kahuku in Kau. Keoua's chief warrior urged him to put them to death, which he indignantly refused to do. "By smooth speeches and fair promises they persuaded him to go to Kawaihae, and have an interview with Kamehameha, in order to put an end to the war, which had lasted nine years. Accordingly he set out with his most intimate friends and A EEVIEW OF SPANISH FILIPINO VOLUNTEERS, A SPANISH FESTIVAL IN MANILA. EAELY HISTORY OF THE SAXDWICH ISLANDS. 343 twenlv-four rowers in his own double canoe, accompanied b}' Keaweaheulu in an- other canoe, and followed by friends and retainers in other canoes. "x^s they approached the landing at Kawaihae, Keeanmoku surrounded Ke- oua's canoe with a number of armed men. As Kamakau relates: ^Seeing Ivame- hameha on the beach, Keoua called out to him, ^TTere I am/' to which he replied, ^^Eise up and come here, that we may know each other.'' ' ^"As Keoua was in the act of leaping ashore, Keeaumoku killed him with a spear. All the men in Keoua's canoe and in the canoes of his immediate company were slaughtered but one. But when the second division approached, Kamehameha gave orders to stop the massacre. The bodies of the slain were then laid upon the ^^Itar of Puukohola as an offering to the blood-thirsty divinity Kukailimoku. That of Keoua had been previously baked in an oven at the foot of the hill as a last indignity. This treacherous murder made Kamehameha master of the whole island of Hawaii, and was the first step toward the consolidation of the group under one government." This is one of those gentle proceedings of an amiable race, whose massacre of Captain Cook has been so elaborately vindicated by alleged exponents of civilization. There is found the keynote of the grevious native government in an incident of the date of 1841 by which "the foreign relations of the government became involved with the schemes of a private firm. The firm of Ladd & Co. had taken the lead in developing the agricultural resources of the islands by their sugar plan- tation at Koloa and in other ways, and had gained the entire confidence of the Mng and chiefs. On the 24th of ITovember, 1841, a contract was secretly drawn up at Lahaina by Mr. Brinsmade, a member of the firm, and Mr. Eichards, and duly signed by the king and premier, which had serious after-consequences. It granted to Ladd & Co. the privilege of "leasing any now unoccupied and unim- proved localities" in the islands for one hundred years, at a low rental, each mill- «ite to include fifteen acres, and the, adjoining land for cultivation in each locality not to exceed two hundred acres, with privileges of wood, pasture, etc. These -sites were to be selected within one year, which term was afterwards extended to four years from date.". Of course there are many safeguards, particularly in this case, but the points of the possession of land conceded, the time for the people to recover their rights never comes. One of the difficulties in the clearing up of the foggy chapters of the history of the Hawaiian islands is that within the lifetime of men who were voun.ix at the 344 EAELY HISTORY OF THE SAXDWICH ISLANDS. close of the last centuiy, the Hawaiian tongue became, a written language, and made the traditions of savages highly colored stories, in various degrees accord- ing to ignorance, prejudice and sympathy, accepted as historical. The marvels accomplished by the missionaries influenced them to deal gently with those whose conversion was a recognized triumph of Christendom, and there was an effort to* condemn Captain Cook, who had affected to nod as a God, as a warning to blas- phemers. Still, the truth of history is precious as the foundations of faith to men of all races and traditions, and the Englishman who surpassed the French, Span- iards and Portuguese in discoveries of islands in the vast spaces of the Pacific Ocean, should have justice at the hands of Americans who have organized states and built cities by that sea, and possess the islands that have been named its para- dise because endowed surpassingly with the ample treasures of volcanic soil and tropical climate. There the trade winds bestow the freshness of the calm and mighty waters, and there is added to the bounty of boundless wealth the charms of luxuriant beauty. All Americans should find it timely to be just to Captain Cook, and claim l::m as one of the pioneers of our conquering civilization. CHAPTEE XXII. THE START FOE THE LAXD OF COEX STALKS. Spain Clings to the Ghost of Her Colonies — The Scene of War Interest Shifts from Manila — The Typhoon Season — General Merritt on the Way to Paris — Ger- man Target Practice by Permission of Dewey — Poultney Bigelow with Canoe, Typewriter and Kodak — Hongkong as a Bigger and Brighter Gibraltar. When Spain gave np the ghosts of her American colonies, and the war situation was unfolded to signify that the fate of the Philippines was referred to a conference, and Aguinaldo announced the removal of his seat of government to Molones, one hour and a half from Manila, the scene of greatest interest was certainly not in the city and immediate surroundings. Then it was plain the American army must remain for some time, and would have only guard duty to perform. The Spaniards had succumbed and were submissive, having laid down their arms and surrendered all places and phases of authority. The insurgents' removal of their headquarters declared that they had abandoned all claim to sharing in the occupation of the con- Cjuered city, and their opposition to the United States, if continued in theory, was not to be that in a practical way. Between the American, Spanish and Philippine forces there was no probabihty of disputed facts or forms /that could be productive of con- tention of a serious nature. There was but one question left in this quarter of the world that concerned the people of the United States, and that whether they would hold their grip, snatched by Dewey with his fleet, and confirmed by his govern- ment in sending an army, making our country possessors of the physical force to sustain our policy, whatever it might be, on the land as well as on the sea. Whether we should stay or go was not even to be argued in Manila, except in general and fruitless conversation. Then came the intelligence that General Merritt had been called to Paris and General Greene to Washington, and there was a deepened im- pression that the war was over. . It was true that the army was in an attitude and having experiences that were such as travelers appreciate as enjoyable, and that no other body of soldiers had surroundings so curious and fascinating. The most agreeable time of the year was coming on, and the sanitary conditions of the city, under the American administration, would surely improve constantly, and so would the fare of the men, for the machinery in all departments was working smoothly. The boys were feeling pretty well, because they found their half dollars dollars — 345 ^W THE STAET FOR THE LA^^D OF COEN STALKS. the Mexican fifty-cent piece^ bigger and with more silver in it than the American standard dollar^ was a bird. A dollar goes further if it is gold in Manila than in an American cit}-^ and if our soldiers are not paid in actual gold they get its equiv- alent^ and the only money question unsettled is whether the Mexican silver dollar is worth in American money fifty cents or less. One of the sources of anxieties and disappointment and depression of the American soldiers in Manila has been the irregularity and infrequency with which they get letters. If one got a letter or newspaper from home of a date not more than six weeks old he had reason to be congratulated. The transports trusted with the mails were slow, and communica- tions through the old lines between Hongkong and San Francisco, Yohohama and Vancouver, were not reliably organized. There were painful cases of masses of mail on matter precious beyond all valuation waiting at Hongkong for a boat, and an issue whether the shorter road home was not by way of Europe. This is all in course of rapid reformation. There will be no more mystery as to routes or failures to connect. The soldiers, some of whom are ten thousand miles from home, should have shiploads of letters and papers. They need reading matter almost as much as they do tobacco, and the charming enthusiasm of the ladies who enter- tained the soldier boys when they were going away with feasting and flattery, praise and glorification, should take up the good work of sending them letters, papers, mag- azines and books. There is no reason why soldiers should be more subject to home- sickness than sailors, except that they are not so well or ill accustomed to absence. The fact that the soldiers are fond of their homes and long for them can have ways of expression other than going home. A few days after the news of peace reached Manila, the transports were inspected for closing up the contracts with them under which they were detained, and soon they began to move. When the China was ordered to San Francisco,! improved the opportunity to return to the great republic. There was no chance to explore the many islands of the group of which Manila is the Spanish Capital. General Merritt changed the course of this fine sliip and added to the variety of the voyage by taking her to Hongkong to sail thence by way of the China Sea, the Indian Ocean, the Arabian Gulf, the Eed Sea, the Suez Canal and the Mediterranean, to Paris. Our route to San Francisco, by way of Hongkong, Nagasaki, Sunanaski, Kobe and the Yokohama light, was 6,905 knots, about seven thousand seven hundred statute miles, and gave us glimpses of the Asia shore, the west coast of Formosa and the great ports of Hongkong and Nagasaki, The first thing on the Sea of China, in the month of September, is whether we shall find ourselves in the wild embrace of a typhoon. It was the season for those terri- ble tempests and when we left Manila the information that one was about due was THE STAET FOE THE LA^jO OF COR^ STALKS. 347 not spared us. We heard later on that the transport ahead of us four days, the Zealandia, was twenty-eight hours in a cyclone and much damaged — wrung and hammered and shocked until she had to put into Nagasaki for extensive repairs. The rainfall was so heavy during the storm that one could not see a hundred yards from the ship, and she was wrung in so furious a style in a giddy waltz, that the Captain was for a time in grave doubt w^hether she would not founder. The rule is when one is in the grasp of the oriental whirl to run through it, judging from the w^ay of the wind, the shortest way out. There is a comparatively quiet spot in the center, and if the beset navigator can find the correct line of flight, no matter which way as relates to the line of his journey, he does well to take it. Often in this sea, as in this case, there w^ere uncertainties as to directions. The rain narrowed observation like a dense fog, and there was danger of running upon some of the islands and snags of rocks. The battered vessel pulled through a cripple, with her boats shattered, her deck cracked across by a roller, and her crew were happy to find a quiet place to be put in order. ^To be or not to be" an American instead of a Spanish or Asiatic city was the parting thought as the China left Manila Bay, and the dark rocks of Corrigedor faded behind us, and the rugged rocks that confront the stormy sea loomed on our right, and the violet peaks of volcanic mountains bounded our eastern horizon. The last view we had of the historic ba}^, a big German warship was close to the sentinel rock, that the Spaniards thought they had fortified, until Dewey came and saw and conquered, swifter than Caesar, and the Germans, venturing some target practice, by permission of Dewey, who relaxes no vigilance of authority. Hongkong is 628 miles from Manila, and the waters so often stirred in monstrous wrath, welcomed us with a spread of dazzling silk. The clumsy junks that appeared to have come down from the days of Confucius, were languid on the gentle ripples. The outstanding Asian islands, small and grim, are singu- larly desolate, barren as if splintered by fire, gaunt and forbidding. Hongkong is an island that prospers under the paws of the British lion, and it is a city displayed on a mountain side, that by day is not much more imposing than the town of Gibraltar, which it resembles, but at night the lights ghtter in a sweeping circle, the steep ascent of the streets revealed by many lamps, and here and there the illumination climbs to the tops of the mountains that are revealed with magical efforts of color and form. The harbor is entered by an ample, but crooked channel, and is land-locked, fenced with gigantic bumps that sketch the horizon, and with their heads and shoulders are famihar with the sky. Here General Merri tt, with his personal staff, left us, and between those bound from this port east and west, we circumnavigated the earth. 348 THE STAET FOE THE LANB OF COEX STALKS. Mr. Ponltney Bigelow, of Harper's Weekly, who dropped in by the way just -to make a few calls at Manila, and has a commission to explore the rivers and lagoons of China with his canoe, left us, in that surprising craft, plying his paddle in the fashion of the Esquimaiix, pulling right and left, hand over hand, balancing to a nicety on the waves and going ashore dry and unruffled, with his fieldgiass and portfolio, his haversack and typewriter machine that he folds in a small box as if it was a pocket comb, and his kodak, with which he is an expert. He has not only ransacked with his canoe the rivers of America, but has descended the Danube and the Volga. He puts out in his canoe and crosses arms of the sea, as a pastime, makes a tent of his boat if it rains, fighting the desperadoes of all climes with the super- stition, for which he is indebted to their imagination for his safety in running phenomenal hazards, that he is a magician. Marco Polo was not so great a traveler or so rare an adventurer as Bigelow, and, having left Florida under a thunder cloud of the scowl of an angry army for untimely criticisms, he has invaded the celestial empire in his quaint canoe, and he can beat the Chinese boatmen on their own rivers, and sleep like a sea bird on the swells of green water, floating like a feather, and safe in his slumbers as a solon goose with his head under his wing. How- ever, he has not a winged boat, a bird afloat sailing round the purple peaks remote, as Buchanan Eeed put it in his ^^Drifting" picture of the Yesuvian bay, for Bigelow uses a paddle. There has been a good deal of curiosity as well as indigna- tion about his papers on the handling of our Cuban expedition before it sailed, and it is possible he was guilty of the common fault of firing into the wrong people. He was in Washington in June, and he and I meeting on the Bridge of Spain over the Pesang in Manila in August, we had, between us, put a girdle about the earth. Some say such experiences are good to show how small the earth is, but I am more than ever persuaded that it is big enough to find mankind in occupation and sub- sistence until time shall be no more. In the dock at Hongkong was Admiral Dewey's flagship Olympia, and while she had the grass scratched from her bottom, the gallant crew were having a holiday with the zest that rewards those who for four months were steadily on shipboard with arduous cares and labors. H. B. M. S. Powerful, of 12,000 tons displacement, with four huge flues and two immense military masts, presided at Hongkong under orders to visit Manila. The mingling of the English and Chinese in Hongkong is a lively object lesson, showing the extent of the British capacity to utilize Asiatic labor, and get the profit of European capital and discipline, an ac- cumulation that requires an established sense of safety — a justified confidence in permanency. The contrast between the city of Hongkong and that of Manila is one that THE STAET FOR THE LAND OF CORX STALKS. 349 Americans should study now, to be instructed in the respective colonial systems of England and Spain. Hongkong is clean and solid, with business blocks of the best style of construction, the pavements excellent in material and keeping, shops full of goods, all the appliances of modern times — a city up to date. There are English enough to manage and Chinese enough to toil. There are two British regiments, one of them from India, the rank and file recruited from the fighting tribe> of northern mountaineers. There are dark, tall men, with turbans, embodiment of mystery, and Parsees who have a strange spirituality of their own, and in material matters maintain a lofty code of honor, .while their pastime is that of striving while they march to push their heads into the clouds. There are no horses in Hongkong, the coolies carr3dng chairs on bamboo poles, or trotting with two- wheelers, an untiring substitute for quadrupeds, and locomotion on the streets or in the boats is swift and sure. I had an address to find in the city, on a tip at Manila of the presence of a literary treasure, and my chairmen carried me, in a few minutes, to a tall house on a tall terrace, and the works of a martyr to liberty in the Philippines were located. The penalty for the possession of these books in Manila was that of the author executed by shooting in the back in the pres- ence of a crowd of spectators. The cost of the carriers was thirty cents in silver — fifteen cents in United States money — and the men were as keen-eyed as they were sure-footed, and the strength of their tawny limbs called for admiration. They were not burdened with clothes, and the play of the muscles of their legs was like a mechanism of steel, oiled, precise, easy aiid ample in force. The China took on a few hundred tons of coal, which was delivered aboard from heavy boats by the basketful, the men forming a line, and so expert were they at each delivery, the baskets were passed, each containing about half a bushel — perhaps there were sixty baskets to the ton — at the rate of thirty-five baskets in a minute. Make due allow- ances and one gang would deliver twenty tons of coal an hour. The China was anchored three-quarters of a mile from the landing, and a boat ride was ten cents, or fifteen if you were a tipster. The boats are, as a rule, managed by a man and his wife; and, as it is their own, they keep the children at home. The average famihes on the boats — and I made several counts — were nine, the seven children varying from one to twelve years of age. The vitaHty of the Chinese is not exhausted, or even impaired. CHAPTER XXIII. KODAK SNAPPED AT JAPAN. Glimpses of China and Japan on the Way Home from the Philippines — Hongkong a Greater Gibraltar — Coaling the China — Gangs of Women Coaling the China — How the Japanese Make Gardens of the Mountains — Transition from the Tropics to the Northern Seas — A Breeze from Siberia — A TTiousand Miles Nothing on the Pacific — Talk of Swimming Ashore. Formosa was so far away eastward — a crinkled line drawn faintly with a fine blue pencil, showing as an artistic scrawl on the canvass of the low clouds — we could hardly claim when the sketch of the distant land faded from view^ that we had seen Japan. When Hongkong, of sparkling memory, was lost to sight, the guardian walls that secluded her harbor, closing their gates as we turned away, and the head- lands of the celestial empire grew dim, a rosy sunset promised that the next day should be pleasant, our thoughts turned with the prow of the China to Japan. We w^ere bound for Nagasaki, to get a full supply of coal to drive us across the Pacific, having but twelve hundred tons aboard, and half of that wanted for ballast. It was at the mouth of the harbor of Nagasaki that there was a settlement of Dutch Christians for some hundreds of years. An indiscreet letter captured on the way to Holland by a Portuguese adventurer and maliciously sent to Japan, caused the tragic destruction of the Christian colony. The enmity of Christian, nations anxious to add to their properties in the islands in remote seas was so strong that any one preferred that rather than his neighbors might aggrandize the heathen should pre- vail. The first as well as the last rocks of Japan to rise from and sink into the prodi- gous waters, through which w^e pursued our homeward way, bathing our eyes in the delicious glowing floods of eastern air, were scraggy with sharp pinnacles, and sheer precipices, grim survivals of the chaos that it was, before there w^as light. I have had but glimpses of the extreme east of Asia, yet the conceit will abide with me that this is in geology as in history the older world, as we classify our continents, that a thousand centuries look upon us from the terrible towers, lonesome save for the flutter of white wings, that witness the rising of the constellations from the greater ocean of the globe. But there are green hills as we approach Nagasaki, and on a hillside to the left are the white walls of a Christian church with a square tower, stained with traditions of triumphs and suffering and martyrdom long ago. Nagasaki is like Hongkong in its land-locked harbor, in clinging to a mountain side, in the 350 KODAK SNAPPED AT JAPAN. 351 circle of illumination at night and the unceasing paddling of boats from ship to ship and between the ships and landings. One is not long in discovering that here are a people more alert, ingenious, self-confident and progressive than the Chinese. As we approached the harbor there came to head us off, an official steam launch, with men in uniform, who hailed and commanded us to stop. Two officers with an intense expression of authority came aboard, and we had to give a full and par- ticular account of ourselves. Why were we there? Coaling. Where w^re we from? Manila and Hongkong. Where were we going? San Francisco. Had we any sick- ness on board? No. We must produce the ship doctor, the list of passengers, and manifest of cargo. We had no cargo. There were a dozen passengers. It was dif- ficult to find fault with us. No one was ill. We wanted coal. What was the matter? We had no trouble at Hongkong. We could buy all the coal we wanted there, but preferred this station. We had proposed to have our Avarships cleaned up at Nagasaki, but there were objections raised. So the job went to the docks at Hongkong, and good gold with it. AYhy was this? Oh yes; Japan wanted, in the war between the United States and Spain, to be not merely formall}', but actually neutral! The fact is that the Japanese Empire is not pleased with us. They had, in imperial cir- cles, a passion for Honolulu, and intimated their grief. Now they are annoyed because that little indemnity for refusing the right to land Japanse labor was paid by the Hawaiian Government before the absorption into the United States. As the Hawaiian diplomatic correspondence about this was conducted with more asperity than tact, if peace were the purpose, it was a good sore place for the Japanese statesmen to rub, and they resent in the newspapers the facile and cheap pacification resulting from the influence of the United States. In addition the Japanese inhabitants, though they have a larger meal than they can speedily digest in Formosa, are not touched with unqualified pleasurable feeling because we have the Philippines in our grasp. If Japan is to be the great power of the Pacific, it is inconvenient to her for us to hold the Hawaiian, the Aleutian and the Philippine groups of islands. The Philippines have more natural resources than all the islands of Japan, and our Aleutian Islands that are waiting for development would prob- ably be found, if thoroughly investigated, one of our great and good bargains. The average American finds himself bothered to have to treat the Japanese seriously, but we must, for they take themselves so, and are rushing the work on new ships of w^ar so that they will come out equal with ourselves in sea power. They have ready for war one hundred thousand men. If we did not hold any part of the Pacific Coast, this might be a matter of indifference, but we have three Pacific States, and there is no purpose to cede them to the Japanese. It would not be statesmanship 352 KODAK SNAPPED AT JAPAN. to give up the archipelagoes we possess, even if we consider them as lands to hold for the hereafter. It is not deniable that the Japanese have good reason to stand off for strict examination the ships of other nations that call at their ports. The British and Chinese have had an experience of the bubonic plague at Hongkong, and the Japanese are using all the power of arms and the artifice of science they possess to keep aloof from the disastrous disease^ which is most contagious. The China had called at Hongkong, and hence the sharp attentions at a coaling station where there are about seventy-five thousand inhabitants of the Japanese quarters, which are an exhibit of Old Japan, and most interesting. Nagasaki has, indeed, the true Japanese flavor. If there had been a sick man on our ship we should have been quarantined. Further on we were halted in the night off the city of Kobe, to the sound of the firing of a cannon, for we had dropped there a passenger, Mr. Tilden, the Hongkong agent of the Pacific Mail line, and if our ship had been infected with plague he might have passed it on to Japan! I had gone to bed, and was called up to confront the representative of the Imperial Government of the Japanese, and make clear to his eyes that I had not returned on account of the plague. Authorities of Japan treat people who are quarantined in a way that removes the stress of disagreeableness. All are taken ashore and to a hospital. There is furnished a robe of the country, clean and tidy in all respects. The common clothing is removed and fumigated. It is necessary for each quarantined person to submit to this and also to a bath, which is a real luxury, and after it comes a cup of tea and a light lunch. There was an actual case of plague on an American ship at this city of Kobe not long ago, at least, it was so reported with pretty strong corroborative evidence. The symptom in the case on the ship was that of a fever, probably pneumonia. The man was landed and examined. The plague fever resembles pneumonia at an early stage. The Japanese physicians found signs of plague and the end came soon. The sick man, taken ashore in the afternoon, at nine o'clock was dead, transferred at once to the crematory, in two hours reduced to ashes, and the officers of the ship informed that if they wanted to carry the "remains" to America they would be sealed in a jar and certified. The ship's officers did not want ashes, and the Japs hold the jar. They are so "advanced" that cremation is becoming a fad with them. It would not be surprising to find that the impending danger of the Japanese is excessive imitative progress, which is not certain to be exactly the right thing for them. They have reached a point where it is worth while to examine the claim of new things with much care before adopting them. We have very high authority to examine all things for goodness sake, before committing ourselves to hold them fast. We had to take aboard eighteen hundredtonsof coalatNagasaki. Afleet of arks with thirty tons of Jap- KODAK SNAPPED AT JAPAN. 353 •anese coal approaclied and gathered around the ship, which has sixteen places to throw coal into the bunkers. So the coal business was carried on by from twelve to fifteen ^angs, each of about ten men and twent}' women! The latter were sturdy creatures, modestly attired in rough jackets and skirts. There were not far from thirty bamboo baskets to the gang. One man stood at the porthole, and each second emptied a coal basket, using both hands, and throwing it back into the barge with one hand, the same swing of the arm used to catch the next basket hurled to him with a quick, quiet fling. There were three men of a gang next the ship, the third one standing in the barge, served with baskets by two' strings of women. At the end of the string furthest from the ship the coal was shoveled into the baskets by four men, and there were two who lifted and whirled them to the women. The numbers and order of the laborers varied a little at times from this relation, yet very little, but frequently a lump of coal was passed without using a basket. The work of coaling was carried on all night, and about thirty-six hours of labor put in for a day. There was a great deal of talking among the laborers during the few moments of taking places, and some of it in tones of high excitement, but once the human machine started there was silence, and then the scratching of the shovels in the coal, and the crash of the coal thrown far into the ship were heard. It is, from the American contemplation, shocking for women to do such work, but they did their share with unflinching assiduity, and without visible distress. When the night work was going on they were evidently fatigued, and at each change that allowed a brief spell of waiting, they were stretched out on the planks of the boats, the greater number still, but some of the younger ones talking and laughing. There did not seem to be much flirtation, nothing like as much as when both sexes of Europeans are engaged in the same wheat or barley field harvesting. There were, it is needful to remark, neither lights nor shadows to invite the blanishments of courting. The coal handling women were from fifteen to fifty years of age, and all so busy the inevitable babies must have been left at home. I have never seen many American or European babies '"good" as weary mothers use the word, as the commonest Japanese kids. They do not know how to cry, and a girl of ten years will relieve a mother of personal care by carrying a baby, tied up in a scarf, just its head sticking out (I wish they could be induced to use more soap and water on the coppery heads, from which pairs of intent eyes stare out with sharp inquir}-, as wild animals on guard). The girl baby bearer, having tied the child so that it appears to be a bag, slings it over her shoulder, and it interferes but slightly with the movements of the nurse; does not discernibly embarrass her movements. The men colliers, it must be admitted, are a shade reckless in the .scarcity of their drapery when they are handling baskets in the presence of ladies. 354 KODAK SNAPPED AT JAPAN. They do usually wear shirts with short tails behind, and very economical breech-- cloths, but their shirts are sleeveless, and the buttons are missing on collar and bosom. The only clothing beneath the knees consists of straw sandals. The precipitation of perspiration takes care of itself. There are no pocket handkerchiefs. Nagasaki has good hotels, a pleasant, airy European quarter, and shops stored, with the goods of the country, including magnificent vases and other pottery that should meet the appreciation of housekeepers. There is no city in Japan more typically Japanese, few in which the line is so finely and firmly drawn between the old and the new, and that to the advantage of both. It is hardly possible for" those who do not visit Japan to realize wdiat a bitter struggle the people have had with their native land, or how brilliant the victory they have won. The passage of the China through the inner sea and far along the coast gave opportunity to see, as birds might, a great deal of the country. The inner sea is a wonderfully attractive sheet of water, twice as long as Long Island Sound, and studded with islands, a panorama of the picturesque mountains everywhere, deep nooks, glittering shoals, fishing villages by the sea, boats rigged like Americans, ■flocks of white sails by day, and lights at night, that suggest strings of street lamps. The waters teem with life. Evidently the sea very largely affords industry and sus- tenance to the people, for there is no bottom or prairie land, as we call the level or slightly rolhng fields in America. There was not a spot from first to last visible in Japan, as seen from the water, or in an excursion on the land, where there is room to turn around a horse and plow. The ground is necessarily turned up with spades and mellowed with hoes and rakes, all, of course, by human hands. This is easy com- pared with the labor in constructing terraces. The mountains have been conquered to a considerable extent in this way, and it is sensational to see how thousands of steep places have been cut and walled into gigantic stairways, covering slopes that could hardly answer for goat pasture, until the shelves with soil placed on them for cultivation have been wrought, and the terraces are like wonderful ladders bearing against the skies. So rugged is the- ground, however, that many mountains are unconquerable, and there are few traces of the terraces, though here and there, viewed from a distance, the evidences that land is cultivated as stairways leaning against otherwise inaccessible declivities. I have never seen elsewhere anything that spoke so unequivocably of the endless toil of men, women and children to find footings upon which to sow the grain and fruit that sustain life. It is not to be questioned that the report, one-twelfth, only of the surface of Japan is under tillage, is accu- rate. The country is more mountainous than the Alleghenies, and some of it barren as the wildest of the Eockies on the borders of the bad lands, and it is vokanic, re- KODAK SNAPPED AT JAPAN, 855 markably so, even more subject to earthquakes than the Philippines. The whole of Japan occupies about as much space as the two Dakotas or the Philippines^ and the population is forty-two millions. With work as careful and extensive as that of the agricultural mountaineers of Japan, the Dakotas would support one hundred jnillion persons. But they w^ould have to present the washing away of the soil and the waste through improvident ignorance or careless profligacy of any fertilizer, or •of any trickle of water needed for irrigation. One of the features of the terraces is that the rains are saved by the walls that sustain the soil, and the gutters that guide the water conserve it, because paved with pebbles and carried down by easy stages, -irrigating one shelf after another of rice or vegetables, whatever is grown, until the whole slope not irreclaimable is made to blossom and the mountain torrents :saved in their descent, not tearing away the made ground, out of which the means of hving grows, but percolating through scores of narrow beds, gardens suspended like extended ribbons of verdure on volcanic steeps, refreshing the crops to be at last ripened by the sunshine. This is a lesson for the American farmer — to be studied more closely than imitated — to grow grass, especially clover, to stop devastation by creeks, with shrubbery gifted wdth long roots to save the banks of considerable streams, and, wdiere there is stone, use it to save the land now going by every fresh- water rivulet and rivers to the seas, to the irreparable loss of mankind. It is the duty of man who inherits the earth that it does not escape from him, that his inheritance is not swept away by freshets. We are growing rapidly, in America, in the understanding of this subject, beginning to comprehend the necessity of giving the land that bears crops the equivalent of that which is taken from it, that the vital capital of future generations may not be dissipated and the people grow ever poor and at last perish. A ride in a jinrikisha, a two-wheeler, with a buggy top and poles for the biped horse to trot between, from Nagasaki to a fishing village over the mountains, .five miles away, passing at the start through the Japanese quarter, long streets of shops, populous and busy, many diligent in hght manufacturing work, and all scant in. clothing — the journey continuing in sharp climbs alongside steep places and beside deep ravines, the slopes elaborately terraced, and again skirting the swift curves of a rapid brook from the mountains, that presently gathered and spread over pretty beds of gravel, providing abundant fresh water bathing, in which a school of boys, leaving a small guard for a light supply of clothing ashore— the ride ending in a village of fishermen that, by the count of the inhabitants, should be a town— per- mitted close observation of the Japanese in a city and a village, on their sky-scraping gardens and in the road, going to and coming from market, as well a? in ]ilaees of 356 KODAK SXAPPKD AT JAPAN. roadside entertainment; and at last a seaside resort, in whose shade a party of globe- trotters were lunching, some of them, I hear, trying to eat raw fish. There could hardly have been contrived a more instructive exhibit of Japan and the Japanese. The road was obstructed in several places by cows bearing bales of goods from the city to the country, and produce from the hanging gardens to the streets, an occa- sional horse mustered in, and also a few oxen. The beast of burden most frequently overtaken or encountered was the cow, and a majority of the laborers were women. There were even in teams of twos and fours, carrying heavy luggage, men and women, old, middle-aged and }Oung, barefooted or shod with straw, not overloaded, as a rule, and some walking as "if they had performed their tasks and were going home. On the road it was patent there was extraordinary freedom from care as to clothing, and no feeling of prejudice or dismay if portions of it esteemed absolutely essential in North America and Europe had been left behind or was awaiting return to the possessor. This applies to both sexes. The day was warm, even hot, and the sun shone fiercely on the turnpike — for that is what we would call it — making walking, with or without loads, a heating exercise. E^en the bearing of baskets, and the majority of the W'Omen carried them, was justification under the customs of the country for baring the throat and chest to give amjole scope for breathing, and there is no restriction in the maintenance of the drooping lines of demarkation, according to the most liberal fashionable allowances, in dispensing with all the misty suggestions of laces to the utmost extent artists could ask, for the study of figures. Beauty had the advan- tage of the fine curves of full inhalations of the air that circulated along the dusty paths between the sea and the mountains. It is a puzzle that the artists of Japan have not better improved the unparalleled privilege of field and wall sketching, that they enjoy to a degree not equalled within the permission of the conventional con- struction of that which is becoming in the absence of the daylight habilaments of any great and polite people. The art schools of Japan, out of doors, on the highway, even, cannot fail to produce atuTOspheric influences of which the world will have visions hereafter, and the Latin quarter of Paris will lose its reputation that attracts and adjusts nature to inspiration. When we had succeeded, at Kobe, in convincing the authorities that none of the passengers on the China had picked up the plague at Hongkong, we put out into the big sea, and shaped our course for the fairer land so far away, not exactly a straight line, for the convexity of the earth that includes the water, for the ocean — particu- larly the Pacific — is rounded so that the straightest line over its surface is a curved line, if astronomically mentioned. We struck out on the great Northern circle, pur- pofino- to run as lii.ah as the forty-eighth parallel, almost to our Alutian Islands, KODAK SNAPPED AT JAPAN. 357 and pursued our course in full view, the bald cliffs of Japan changing their color with the going down of the sun. When morning came the purple bulk of the bestirring httle empire still reminded us of the hghts and shadows of Asia and the missionary labors of Sir Edwin Arnold, which have a flavor of the classics and a remembrance of the Scriptures. "Yonder/' said the Captain, "is the famous mountain of Japan^ Eugeyana. "It is not very clearly seen, for it is distant. Oh, you are looking too low x:lown and see only the foot-hills — that is it, away up in the sky!" It was there, a peak so lofty that it is solitary. We were to have seen it better later, but as the hours passed there was a dimness that the light of declining day did not dis- perse, and the mountain stayed with us in a ghostly way, and held its own in high communion. As we were leaAdng Asian waters there came a demand for typhoons that the Captain satisfied completeh^, saying he was not hunting for them, but the worst one he ever caught was five hundred miles east of Yokohama. The tourists were rather troubled. The young man who had been in the wild waltz of the Zealandia did not care for a typhoon. We had been blessed with weather so balmy and healing, winds so soft and waves so low, that the ship had settled down steady as a river >.teamboat. We pushed on, but the best the China could do was fourteen knots and a half an hour, near 350 knots a day, with a consumption of 135 tons of coal in twenty-four hours. So much for not having been cleaned up so as to give the go of the fine lines. The China had been in the habit of making sixty miles a day more than on this trip, burning less than 100 tons of coal. As we climbed in the ladder of the parallels of latitude, we began to notice a crispness in the air, and it was lovely to the lungs. It was a pleasure, and a stimulant surpassing wine, to breathe the north temperate ozone again, and after a while to catch a frosty savor on the breeze. We had for- gotten, for a few days, that we were not in a reeking state of perspiration. Ah I we were more than. a thousand miles north of Manila, and that is as far as the coast of Maine to Cuba. The wind followed us, and at last gained a speed greater than our own; then it shifted and came down from the northwest. It was the wind that swept from Siberia, and Kamschatka's grim peninsula pointed us out. The smoke from our funnels blew black and dense away southeast, and did not cliange more than a point or two for a week. The Pacific began to look like the North Atlantic. There came a "chill out of a cloud" as in the poetic case of Annabel Lee. Tliere had been, during our tropical experience, some outcries for the favor of a few chills, but now they were like the typhoons. AYhen it was found that they might be had we did not want them. After all, warm weather was not so bad, and the chills that were in the wind that whistled from Siberia were rather objectionable. It was 858 KODAK SNAPPED AT JAPAN. singular to call for one^ two, three blankets, and then hunt up overcoats. White •trousers disappeared two or three da3^s after the white coats. Straw hats were called for by the wind. One white cap on an officer's head responded alone to the swarm of white caps on the water. ' The roll of the waves impeded our great northern circle. We could have made it, but we should have had to roll with the waves. We got no higher than 45 degrees. We had our two Thursdays, and thought of the fact that on the mystical meridian 180, where three days get mixed up in one! The Pacific Ocean, from pole to pole, so free on the line where the dispute as to the day i.t is, goes on forever, that only one small island is subject to the witchery of mathe- matics, and the proof in commonplace transactions unmixed with the skies that what- ever may be the matter with the sun — the earth do move, is round, do roll over, and does not spill off the sea in doing so. At last came shrill head winds, and as we added fifteen miles an hour to this speed, the harp strings in the rigging were touched with weird music, and we filled our lungs consciously and conscientiously wdth American air, experiencing one of the old sensations, better than anything new. It AYas figured out that we were within a thousand miles of the continent, and were getting home. When one has been to the Philippines, what's a thousand miles or two! ^'Hello, Captain Seabury! It is only about a thousand miles right ahead to the land. You knov/ what land it is, don't you? Well, now, you may break the shaft or burst the boilers, fling the ship to the sperm whales, like the one that was the only living thing we saw since Japan entered into the American clouds of the West. We are only a thousand miles away from the solid, sugary sweet, redolent, ripe American soil, and if there is anything the matter we do not mind, why we will just take a boat and pull ashore." But we would have had a hard time if the Oaptain had taken us up in the flush of the hilarity that laughed at a thousand miles, when the breeze brought us the faint first hints that we were almost home, after a voyage of five thousand leagues. The wind shifted to the south and increased until it roared, and the waves were as iron tipped with blue and silver, hurling their salty crests over our towering ship; and we were in the grasp — On the Pacific of the terrific Storm King of the Equinox. Mr. Longfellow •mentioned the storm wind gigantic, that shook the Atlantic at the tim.e of the equinox— the one that urges the boiling surges bearing seaweed from the rocks; and all those disappointed because they had not bounded on the billows of the briny enough for healthy exercises, were satisfied in the reception by the tre- mendous Pacific when nigh the shore, which was once the western boundary, but is so no more, of that blessed America, of which her sons grow fonder the farther \ I^VHH ^^ '"^ ^^'^m H^Kt" "~ (""""^^uj^^B^Brf'*. €v \:,' '" - : R^^«^«M^iaiiii'^ S^..-4^i^K^ .-S^'V ■-^'''- *%*■: J ' - =*Wr**X,^ SPAXTARDS REPELLING INSURGENT'S. ATTACK ON A COXVENT. BUSINESS CORNER IN MANILA A NATIVE IX REGIMENTALS. A COUNTRY PAIR. PEASANT COSTUMES. WOODMAN IN WORKING GARB. KODAK SNAPPED AT JAPAN. 359 they roam, (jod's country, as the bo3-s and girls call it reverently, when they are sailing the seas, was veiled from iis in a fog that blanketed the deep. For five thousand miles our ship had been in a remorseless solitude. No voice had come to us; no spark of intelligence from the universe touched us, save from the stars and the sun, but at the hour of the night, and the point of the compass, our navigator had foretold, we should hear the deep-throated horn on Eeyes point — it came to us out of the gloomy abyss — and science had not failed. Across the trackless waste we had been guided aright, and there was music the angels might have envied in the hoarse notes of the fog-horn that welcomed the wanderers home. CHAPTER XXIV. OUE PICTUEE GALLERY. Annotations and Illustrations — Portraits of Heroes of the War in the Army and Xavy, and of the Highest Public Responsibilities— Admirals and Generals, the President and Cabinet — Photographs of Scenes and Incidents — The Characteristics of the Filipinos — Their Homes^ Dresses and Peculiarities in Sun Pictures — The Picturesque People of Our Xew Possessions. The portrait of President McKinley is from the photograph that seems to his friends upon the whole the most striking of his likenesses. That of the Secretary of State, the Honorable John Hay, is certainly from the latest and best of his photos. The Postmaster General, the Honorable Charles Emory Smith, and Secre- tary Bliss, are presented in excellent form and the whole Cabinet with unusual faithfulness. Our naval and military heroes in the war that has introduced the American nation to the nations of the earth as a belligerent of the first class, cannot become too familiar to th'e people, for they are of the stuff that brightens with friction, and the more it is worn gives higher proof that it is of both the precious metals in war, gold and steel. Admiral Dewey, as we have set forth in this volume, is not thus far fairly dealt with in the pictures that have been taken. He is a surprise to those who meet him face to face — so far has photography failed to adequately present him, but the portrait we give is the .best that has been made of him. Major-General Merritt retains the keen, clear cut face, and the figure and bearing of an ideal soldier that has characterized him since, as a youth just from West Point, he entered the army and won his way by his courage and courtesy, his brilHant conduct and excellent intelligence, his dashing charges and superb leadership, to a distin- guished position and the affectionate regard of the army and the people. In the Indian wars, after the bloody struggle of the States was over, he outrode the Indians on the prairies and was at once their conqueror and pacificator. He ranks in chiv- alry with the knights, and his work at Manila was the perfection of campaigning that produced conclusive results with a comparatively small shedding of blood. The likeness of the Archbishop of Manila was presented me by His Grace at the close of a personal interview, and represents him as he is. The chapter devoted to him is meant to do him simple justice as a man and priest. The fact that he bestowed upon me in the inscription with which he greatly increased the value of his 360 OUR PICTURP: gallery. 361 portrait a military dignity to which I have no title is an expression only of his friend- liness. He frankly stated his pleasure in meeting an American who would convey to the President of the United States the message he gave me about the American army^ to which he was indebted for security and peace of mind. General Aguinaldo gave me his photograph, and the flag of the Filipinos with him in the effort to establish an independent government, republican in form. One is not always sure of that which happens in the Philippines, even when one reads about it. I am prepared to believe that there is much truth in the dispatch saying a majority of the Congress of the insurgents at Molores favor annexation to the United States. The whole truth probably is that they would gladly have this country their Protector at large, supreme in the affairs international, they to legislate in re- spect to local affairs. They need to know, however, that their Congress must be- come a territorial legislature, and that the higher law for them is to be the laws of Congress. The Philippine flag is oriental in cut and color, having red and blue bars — a white obtuse angle — the bt se to the staff, and a yellow moon with fantastic dec- orations occupying the field. This flag is one that Admiral Dewey salutes with re- spect. General Aguinaldo is giving much of his strength to the production of proclamations, and his literary labors should be encouraged. On a September morning two years ago, Dr. Jose Rizal was shot by a file of soldiers on the Manila Luneta, the favorite outing park, bordering on the bay. The scene was photographed at the moment the Doctor stood erect before the firing squad, and the signal from the officer in command was awaited for the discharge of the volley killing the most intellectual man of his race. Dr. Rizal is known as the Tagalo Martyr. The Tagalos are of the dominant tribe of Malays. General Aguin- aldo is of this blood, as are the great majority of the insurgents. The Doctor is more than the martyr of a tribe. He is the most talented and accomplished man his people and country has produced. A history of Luzon from his pen is a bulky volume full of facts. I was not able to procure all of his books. Anyone in Manila found in possession of one of them during Spanish rule, would have been taken to the ground selected for human butchery in the appointed place of fes- tivity, and shot as he was, making a holiday for the rulers of the islands. He wrote two nove]s, "Touch Us Not" and "The Filibusters," the latter a sequel of the former. These are books using the weapons put into the hand of genius to smite oppressors- in command of the force of arms. The novels are said to be interesting as novels, —rather sensational in their disregard of the personal reputation of his foes, the friars, but all along between the lines there was argument, appeals for the freedom of the 162 OUK PICTURE GALLEKY. Filipinos, for freedom of speech, conscience and country. There are pamphlets printed the size of an average playing card, from thirty to forty pages each, one "Don Rodriguez," and another "The Telephone." These I obtained in Hongkong from the hands of the niece— daughter of the sister of the Doctor,— and she pre- sented me also his poem written when in the shadow of death, of which this volume gives a prose translation. The poem is the farewell of the author to his friends, his country and the world. It is given in prose because in that style the spirit of the poet, indeed the poetry itself, can be rendered with better results, than by striving to sustain the poetic form. The poem would be regarded as happy and affecting in the thought that is in it, the images in which the ideas gleam, the pathos of resig- nation, the ascendency of hope, if there were nothing in the attendant circumstances that marked it with the blood of historic tragedy. This poetry that it wonld have 'been high treason to own in Manila, for it would not have been safe in any drawer however secret, was treasured by the relatives of the martyr at Hongkong. The niece spoke excellent English, and there was at once surprise and gratification in the family that an American should be interested in the Doctor who sacrificed himself to the freedom of his pen, so much as to ascend the steep places of the city to seek his writings for the sake of the people for whose redemption he died. On the page showing the face of the Doctor and the scene of his execution, there are two men in black, the victim standing firm as a rock to be shot down, and the priest retiring after holding the crucifix to the lips of the dying; and the portrait of the beautiful woman to whom the poet was married a few hours before he was killed. It is said that Rizal wanted to go to Cuba, but Captain-General Weyler answered a request from him that he might live there, that he would be shot on sight if he set foot on Cuban soil. Rizal, hunted hard, attempted to escape in disguise on a Spanish troop ship carrying discharged soldiers to Spain, but was detected while on the Red Sea, returned to Manila and shot to death. I stood on the curbstone that bor- ders the Luneta along the principal pleasure drive, between the whispering trees and the murmuring surf of the bay, just where the martyred poet and patriot waited and looked over the waters his eyes beheld, the last moment before the crash of the rifles that destroyed him, and in the distance there was streaming in the sunshine the flag of our country— the star spangled banner, and long, long may it wave, over a land of the free and home of the brave! The picture of the cathedral shows a tower that was shattered from the founda- tion to the cross by the earthquake of 1863. Ambitious architecture must conform to the conditions imposed by such disasters, and the great edifice is greatly changed. OUR PICTUEE GALLERY. 36J In our gallery we treat Admirals Sampson and Schley as the President set the example. As there was glory for all at Santiago, there was advancement for both. We present them together. The wholesome, manly face of General Lee is in the gallery. His country knows him and thinks of him well. The bombarded church of Cavite shows that shells spare nothing sacred in their flights and concussions. The Bridge of Spain is the one most crossed in passing between the old walled city and the newer town that was not walled, but was for- midably intrenched where rice swamps were close to the bay. The pubhc buildings are commodious and would be higher, but the earth is uncertain, and sky-scraperg are forbidden by-common prudence. Our picture of the principal gate of the walled city is taken truly, but does not give the appearance of extreme antiquity, of the reality. The wall looks old as one that has stood in Europe a thousand years. Naturally the gallery has many works of art representative of Manila. The shipping in the habor is an advertisement of a commerce once extensive. Each picture that shows a woman, a man, or tree; a wood-cutter, a fisherman, or a house, opens for the spectator a vista that may be interpreted by the intelligent. A verit- able picture is a window that reveals a landscape. That which is most valuable in a gallery like this is the perfect truth not everywhere found, for, the eyes that see a picture that is really representatiA^e, setting forth the colors, the light, and the substance of things find that which does not fade when the story is told. There is one most hideous thing in our gallery — that of the head of a Spaniard, bleeding, just severed from the body — the weapon used, a naked dagger in a clenched hand — around the ghastly symbol a deep black border. This is one of the ways of the Katapuna society — the League of Blood — have of saying what they would have us understand are their awful purposes. There are terrible stories about this Blood League — that they bleed themselves in the course of their proceedings, and each member signs his name with his own blood — that they establish brotherhood by mingling their blood and tasting it. They are the sworn enemies of the Span- iards, and particularly of the priests. I inquired of Senor Agoncillo, the Philippine commissioner to Paris, whether those bloody stories w^ere true. He scoffed at the notion that they might be so, and laughed and shouted ^'No, no!" as if he was having much fun. But Agoncillo is a lawyer and a diplomat, and I had heard so much of this horrid society I did not feel positive it was certain that its alleged blood rites were fictitious. Of one thing I am sure — that the dreadful picture is no Joke; and was not meant for a burlesque, though it might possibly be expected to px^r- form the office of a scarecrow. It cannot be doubted that there are oath-bouni 864 OUR PICTURE GALLERY. secret societies that are regarded by the Spaniards as fanatical, superstitious, mur- derous and descrying death. There is a good deal of feeble-minded credulity among the Fihpinos, that is exhibited in the stories told by Aguinaldo. He has many followers who believe that he has a mighty magic, a charm, that deflects bullets and is an antidote for poison. Intelligent people beheve this imbecility is one of the great elements of his power — that his leadership would be lost if the supernaturalism attached to him should go the way of all phantoms. Aguinaldo is said not to have faith in the charm, for he takes very good care of himself. ^Ye give several views of executions at Manila. As a rule, these pictures are not fine productions of art. They are taken under such conditions of light and back- ground that they are somewhat shadowy. This sinister addition to our gallery seems to be the first time the photographs of executions have been reproduced. The photos were not furtively taken. There is no secrecy about the process^ no at- tempts to hide it from the Spaniards. Executions in the Philippines were in the nature of dramatic entertainments. There were often many persons present, and ladies as conspicuous as at bull fights. There is no more objections offered to pho- tographing an execution than a cock fight, which is the sport about which the Filipinos are crazily absorbed. It is the festal character to the Spaniard of the rebel shooting that permits the actualities to be reproduced, and hence these strange contributions to our gallery. Many of our pictures are self-explanatory. They were selected to show things characteristic, and hence instructive, peasants' customs — women riding buffaloes through palm groves — native houses, quaint costumes. "The insurgent outlook" re- veals a native house — a structure of grasses. This is a perfect picture. The south- ern islanders, and the group of Moors, the dressing of the girls, work in the fields, the wealth of vegetation, the dining room of the Governor-General prepared for com- pany, General Merritfs palatial headquarters before he had taken the public prop- erty into his care and suited it to his convenience; the Spanish dude officer, show- ing a young man contented in his uniform, and a pony pretty in his harness. We reproduce the war department map of the PhiHppine islands. It will be closely studied for each island has become a subject of American interest. The imprint of the war department is an assurance of the closest attainable accuracy. The map of the Hawaiian islands clearly gives them in their relative positions and pro- portions as they are scattered broadcast in the Pacific. The Philippine and Hawaiian groups as they thus appear will be found more extensive than the general fancy has OUE PICTUEE GALLERY. 365 painted them. The Philippine Archipelago has been held to resemble a fan, with Luzon for the handle. The shape is something fantastic. It is worth while to note that the distance between the north coast of Luzon and the Sulu Archipelago is equal to that from England to Southern Italy. There are pictures in our gallery that could only be found at the end of a journey of ten thousand miles, and they go far to show the life of the people of a country that is in such relations with ourselves the whole world is interested. There is truth- telling that should be prized in photography, and our picture gallery is one of the most remarkable that has been assem^bled. CHAPTER XXV. CUBA AND PORTO RICO. Conditions In and Around Havana — Fortifications and lYater Supply of the Capital City — Other Sections of the Pearl of the Antilles — Porto Rico, Our New Possession, Described — Size and Population — Natural Resources and Pro- ducts — Climatic Conditions — Towns and Cities — Railroads and Other Im- provements — Future Possibilities. There was the fortune of good judgment in attacking the Spaniards in Cuba at Santiago and Porto Rico, the points of Spanish possession in the West Indies farthest south and east, instead of striking at the west, landing at Pinar del Rio, the western province, and moving upon the fortifications of Havana, where the diffi- culties and dangers that proved so formidable at Santiago would have been cjuad- rupled, and our losses in the field and hospital excessive. The unpreparedness of this country for war has not even up to this time been appreciated except by military experts and the most intelligent and intent students of current history. The mili- tary notes prepared in the AYar Department of the United States at the beginning of the war with Spain, contain the following of Santiago de Cuba: This city was founded in 1514, and the famous Hernando was its first mayor. It is the most southern place of any note on the island, being on the twentieth degree of latitude, while Havana, the most northern point of note, is 23 degrees 9 minutes 26 seconds north latitude. The surrounding country is very mountainous, and the city is built upon a steep slope; the public square, or Campo de Marte, is 110 to 160 feet above the sea, and some of the houses are located 200 feet high. The charac- ter of the soil is reported to be more volcanic than calcareous; it has suffered re- peatedly from earthquakes. It is the second city in the island with regard to popu- lation, slightly exceeding that of Matanzas and Puerto Principe. So far as Ameri- can commerce is concerned, it ranks only ninth among the fifteen Cuban ports of entry. It is located on the extreme northern bank of the harbor of Santiago de Cuba, a harbor of the first class and one of the smallest; hence, as is believed, the great lia- bility of its shipping to infection. According to the chart of the Madrid hydro- graphic bureau, 1863, this harbor is, from its sea entrance to its extreme northern limit, 5 miles long, the city being located 4 miles from its entrance, on the north- eastern side of the harbor. The entrance is for some little distance very narrow — 366 CUBA AXD POETO RICO. 367 not more than 220 yards wide — and may be considered about 2 miles long, with a width varying from one-eighth to five-eighths of a mile. For the remaining 3 miles the harbor gradually v,ddens, until at its northern extremity it is about 2 miles wide. The city is so situated in a cove of the harbor that the opposite shore is only about one-half mile distant. At the wharves from 10 to 15 feet of water is founds and within 300 to 500 yards of the shore from 20 to 30 feet. This^ therefore, is probably the anchorage ground. Three or more so-called rivers, besides other streams, empty into this harbor, and one of these, the Caney River, empties into the harbor at the northern limit of the cit}^, so that its water flows from one island ex- tremity through the whole harbor into the sea. The difference here, as elsewhere in Cuba, between low and high tide is about 2 feet. Population in 1877 was 1:0.835, and 5,100 houses. This city is one of the most noted yellow-fever districts in the island. The population in 1896 was 42^000. The following has been reported: Preparations for mounting new and heavy ordnance is now going on at the en- trance of the bay (March 5, 1898). Xew and heavier guns are also ordered for Punta Blanca, on the right of the bay near Santiago City. Plans have been made for constructing two batteries in the city of Santiago, one about 25 yards in front of the American consulate and the other about two blocks in rear. Cayo Rolones, or Rat Island, located near the middle of the bay, is the Govern- ment depository for powder, dynamite, and other explosives. The elevation on the right of the entrance, where stands Castle Morro, is 10 yards above the sea level, while the hill on the left is 20 yards. "La Bateria Nueva de la Estrella" is mounted with four revolving cannons. The fortifications of Havana were carefully covered in the military notes, and thus enumicrated: There are fifteen fortifications in and about the city of Havana, more or loss armed and garrisoned, besides a work partly constructed and not armed, called Las Animas, and the old bastions along the sea wall of the harbor. These works arc as follows : Nos. 1 and 2 are earthen redans on the sea coast, east of Havana. Yelazo Battery, just east of, and a part of, El Morro. El Morro, a sea coast fort, with flanking barbette batteries, cast of harbor entrance. ^68 CUBA AND PORTO RICO. ' g Twelve Apostles, a water battery lying at the foat of Morro, with a field across the harbor's mouth. It is a part of Morro. Cabana, a stone-bastioned work with both land and water front, in rear of EI x,a.^i-xv^; and directly opposite the city of Havana. San Diego, a stone-bastioned work with only land fronts, east of Cabana. Atares, a stone-bastioned work on hill at southwestern extremity of Havana Bay, near the old shipyard called the arsenal. San Salvador de la Punta, a stone-bastioned work west of harbor entrance, with small advanced and detached work, built on a rock" near harbor mouth. La Reina, a stone work, in shape the segment of a circle, placed on the seacoast, at western limits of city, on an inlet called San Lazardo. Santa Clara, a small but powerful seacoast battery of stone and earth, placed about IJ miles west of harbor. El Principe, a stone-bastioned redoubt west of Havana. ISTos. 3 A, 3 B, and 4 are earthen redans on the seacoast west of Havana. There are, in addition, several works built for defense, but now used for other purposes or abandoned. These are: The Torreon de Vigia, a martello tower placed on the inlet of San Lazaro opposite 3ina. e old fort called La Fuerza, built three hundred and fifty years ago, near the ■ Plaza de Armas, and now used for barracks and public ofi&ces. .e work called San Nazario, situated north of El Principe, but now used in -connection with the present cartridge factory, abandoned for defensive purposes. The partially constructed fort called Las Animas, southeast of Principe, lying on a low hill, partly built but useless and unarmed. The old sea wall extending from near La Punta to the Plaza de Armas, unarmed, -and useless except as a parapet for musketry. The old arsenal, on the west of the inner bay, now used as repair works for ships, useless for defense. The old artillery and engineer storehouses near La Punta, probably once used as strongholds, now mere storehouses for munitions of war. There are, besides, in the vicinity of Havana, three old and now useless stone works — one at Chorrera, the mouth of the Almendarez River, about 4 miles from Havana harbor; another at Cojimar, on the coast, about 3 miles eastward of Cabana, -and the third at the inlet called La Playa de Mariano, about 7 miles west of Havana. CUBA AND POETO EICO. 369 Batteries Nos. 1 and 2 were equipped with, No. 1, four Hontoria 6-inch guns; two Nordenfeldt 6-pounders; No. 2, two Krupp 12-inch guns; four Hontoria 3-inch mortars. The 12-inch Krupps were to stand off battleships attempting to force the harbor, or to bombard the Morro. The Valago battery, a part of the Morro, an out-work on the edge of the cliff, mounting four 11-inch Krupp guns separated by earth traverses. The Morro, commenced in 1589 and finished in 1597, is important for historical associations. It is a most picturesque structure, and is useful as a lighthouse and prison, and is mounted with twelve old 10-inch, eight old 8-inch, and fourteen old 4-inch guns. Cabana, finished in 1774 at a cost of $14,000,000, lies some 500 yards southeast of El .Morro, on the east side of Havana Bay. Toward the city it exposes a vertical stone wall of irregular trace, with salients at intervals. Toward the Morro is a bastioned face protected by a deep ditch, sally port, and drawbridge. Eastward and southward a beautifully constructed land front incloses the work. This front is protected by ditches 40 or more feet deep, well constructed glacis, stone scarp, and counterscarp. Cabana is a magnificent example of the permanent fortifications constructed a century ago. Probably 10,000 men could be quartered jn it. The entrance to Cabana is by the sally port that opens upon the bridge across the moat lying between Cabana and El Morro. Upon entering, the enormous extent of the work begins to be perceived, parapet within parapet, galleries, casemates, and terrepleins almost innumerable, all of stone and useless. There are no earth covers or traverses, and no protection against modern artillery. Cabana is the prison for offenders against the State, and the scene of innumer- able executions. From an exterior or salient corner of the secretary's office of the headquarters there leads a subterranean passage 326 meters long, 2.5 meters wide, and 1.86 high, excavated in the rock. It conducts to the sea, debouching at the mouth of a sewer, 87 meters from the Morro wharf. At exactly 132 meters along the road rising from the Morro pier or wharf to the Cabana, there will be found by excavating the rock on the left of the road, at a depth of 3 meters, a grating, on opening which passage will be made into a road 107 meters long, 1.6 liigh, and 1.42 wide, leading- to the same exit as the Cabana secret way. These passages are most secret, as all believe that the grating of the sewer, seen from the sea, is a drain. The battery of Santa Clara is the most interesting of the fortifications of Havana, and one of the most important. It lies about 100 yards from the sliore of the gulf, at a point where the line of hills to the westward runs back (either naturally or 370 CUBA AND POETO EICO. artificially) into quarries, thus occiiioying a low salient backed by a hill. Here are three new Krupp 11-inch guns, designed to protect El Principe, the land side of Havana. It is 187 feet above sea level and completely dominates Havana, the bay, Morro, Cabana, the coast northward, Atares, and from east around to south, the ap- proaches of the Marianao Eoad, Cristina, and the Western Eailroad for about 3 kilo- meters, i. e., between Cristina and a cut at that distance from the station. Principe gives fire upon Tulipan, the Cerro, the Hill of the Jesuits, and the valley through which passes the Havana Eailroad, sweeping completely with its guns the railroad as far as the cut at Cienaga, 2^ to 3 miles away. It dominates also the hills south- ward and westward toward Puentes Grandes and the Almendarez Eiver, and country extending toward Marianao, also the Calzada leading to the cemetery and toward Chorrera; thence the entire sea line (the railroad to Chorrera is partly sheltered by the slope leading to Principe. This is by all means the strongest position about Havana which is occupied. Lying between it and the hill of the Cerro is the hill of the Catalan Club, right under the guns of the work and about one-half mile away. The Marianao Eoad is more sheltered than the Havana, as it runs near the trees and hill near the Cerro. The only points which dominate the hill of the Principe lie to the south and southeast in the direction of Jesus del Monte and be- yond Eegla. On its southern, southeastern, and southwestern faces the hill of Prin- cipe is a steep descent to the calzada and streets below. The slope is gradual west- ward and around b}^ the north. From this hill is one of the best views of Havana and the valley south. El Principe lies about one-half mile from the north coast, from which hills rise in gradual slopes toward the work. It is Havana gossip that El Principe is always held by the Spanish regiment in which the Captain-General has most confidence. The military notes pronounce El Principe undoubtedly the strongest natural position about Havana now occupied by defensive works. Its guns sweep the heights of the Almendares, extending from the north coast south- ward by the hills of Puentes Grandes to the valley of Cienaga, thence eastward across the Hill of the Jesuits and the long line of trees and houses leading to the Cerro. The country beyond the Cerro is partly sheltered by trees and hills, but eastward El Principe commands in places the country and the bay shore, and gives fire across Havana seaward. The most vulnerable spot in the defenses of Havana is the aqueduct of Isabella n, or the Vento. The water is from the Yento Springs, pure and inexhaustable, nine miles out of Havana. All three of the water supplies to Havana, the Zanja and the two aqueducts of CUBA AND POETO EICO. 371 Ferdinand VII and of the Vento^ proceed from the Ahnendares and run their course near to each other, the farthest to the west being the Zanja and to the east the Yento. At Vento Springs is constructed a large stone basin, open at the bottom, through which springs bubble. From this reservoir the new aqueduct leads. It is an ellip- tical tunnel of brick, placed under ground, and marked by turrets of brick and stone placed along its course. From the Vento Reservoir the new aqueduct crosses the low valley south of Havana, following generally the Calzada de Vento, which becomes, near the Cerro, the Calzada de Palatino, to a point on the Western Eailway marked 5 kilometers (about); hence the calzada and the aqueduct closely follows the railway for about a mile, terminating at a new reservoir. The Vento water is the best thing Havana has, and indispensable. The old sources of supply are intolerable. The main water supply is the Zanja. Through- out the most of its course this river flows through unprotected mud banks; the fluids of many houses, especially in the Cerro ward which it skirts, drain into them; men, horses, and dogs bathe in it; dead bodies have been seen floating in it, and in the rainy season the water becomes very muddy. In fine, the Zanja in its course receives all which a little brook traversing a village and having houses and back yards on its banks would receive. The w^ater can not be pure, and to those who know the facts the idea of drinking it is repulsive. This supply had long been insufficient to the growing city, and in 1835 the well-protected and excellent aqn.Teduct of Ferdinand VII was completed. It taps the Almendares Eiver a few hundred yards above filters mentioned, hence carried by arches to the east El Cerro, and for some distance nearly parallel to the Calzada del Cerro, but finally intersecting this. These works are succeeded by the Famous Vento. When Havana is fought for hereafter the fight will be at the Vento Springs. This remark is not made in the military notes, but the mihtary men know it well. When General Miles expected to attack Havana he procured all the accessible surveys and detail of information, official and through special observation and personal knowledge obtainable of the water works. Life could not be sustained many days in the city of Havana without the water of the adorable Vento. A special interest attaches to Havana, as it is to be a city under the control of the Hnited States. The surface soil consists for the most part of a thin layer of red, yellow, or black earths. At varying depths beneath this, often not exceeding 1 or 2 feet, lie the solid rocks. These foundation rocks are, especially in the north- ern and more modern parts of the city toward the coast of the sea and not of the 372 CUBA AND PORTO RICO. harbor^ Quarternary, and especially Tertiaiy^ formations, so permeable that liquids emptied into excavations are absorbed and disappear. In other parts of the city the rocks are not permeable, and pools are formed. In proportion as the towns of Cuba are old, the streets are narrow. In Havana this peculiarity is so positive that pedestrians cannot pass on the sidewalks, nor vehicles on the streets. Less than one-third of the population live on paved streets, and these are as well paved and kept as clean, it is believed cleaner, than is usual in the United States. The remainder live on unpaved streets, which, for the most part, are very filthy. Many of these, even in old and densely populated parts of the city, are no better than rough country roads, full of rocks, crevices, mud holes, and other irregularities, so that vehicles traverse them with difficulty at all times, and in the rainy season they are sometimes impassible for two months. Rough, muddy, or both, these streets serve admirably as permanent receptacles for much decom- posing animal and vegetable matter. Finally, not less, probably more, than one- half the population of Havana live on streets which are constantly in an extremely insanitary condition, but these streets, though so numerous, are not in the beaten track of the pleasure tourist. In the old intramural city, in which live about 40,000 people, the streets vary in. width, but generally they are 6.8 meters (about 22 feet wide, of which the side- walks occupy about 7.5 feet. In many streets the sidewalk at each side is not even 18 inches wide. In the new, extramural town, the streets are generally 10 meters (32.8 feet) wdde, with 3 meters (nearly 10 feet) for the sidewalks, and 7 meters (23 feet) for the wagonway. There are few sidewalks in any except in the first four of the nine city districts. More than two-thirds of the population live in densely inhabited portions of the city, where the houses are crowded in contact with each other. The average house lot does not exceed 27 by 112 feet insize. There are 17,259 houses, of which 15,494: are one-story, 1,552 are two stories, 186 are three stories, and only 27 are four stories, with none higher. At least 12 in every 13 inhabitants live in one-story houses; and as the total civil, military, and transient population exceeds 200,000 there are more than 12 inhabitants to every house. Tenement houses may have many small rooms, but each room is occupied by a family. Generally the one-story houses have four or five rooms; but house rent, as also food and clothing, is rendered so expensive by taxation, by export as well as import duties, that it is rare for workmen, even when paid $50 to $100 a month, to enjoy the exclusive use of one of these mean little houses; reservino- one or two rooms for his familv, he rents the balance. This condition of CUBA AXD PORTO RICO. 373 affairs is readily understood when it is known tliat so great a necessity •d< flour cost in Havana $15.50 when its j^rice in the United States was $6.50 per barrel. In the densely populated portions of the city the houses generally have no back yard, |)roperly so called, but a flagged court, or narrow vacant space into which sleep- ing rooms open at the side, and in close proximity with these, at the rear of this con- tracted court are located the kitchen, the privy, and often a stall for animals. In the houses of the poor, that is, of the vast majority of the population, there are no storerooms, pantries, closets, or other conveniences for household supplies. These are furnished from day to day, even from meal to meal, by the corner groceries; and it is rare, in large sections of Havana, to find any one of the four corners of a square without a grocery. The walls of most of the houses in Havana are built of "mamposteria" or- rubble masonry, a porous material which freely absorbs atmospheric as well as ground moisture. The mark of this can often be seen high on the walls, which varies from 2 to 7 feet in the houses generally. The roofs are excellent, usually flat, and constructed of brick tiles. The windows are, like the doors, unusually- high, nearly reaching the ceiling, which, in the best houses only, is also unusually high. The wdndows are never glazed, but protected by strong iron bars on the out- side and on the inside by solid wooden shutters, which are secured, like the doors,, with heavy bars or bolts, and in inclement weather greatly interfere with proper ven- tilation. Fireplaces wdth chimneys are extremely rare, so that ventilation depends entirely on the doors and windows, wdiich, it should be stated, are by no means unusually large in most of the sleeping rooms of the poor. Generally in Havana, less generally in other cities, the entrances and courtyards are flagged with stone, while the rooms are usually floored -w4th tile or marble. With rare exceptions the lowest floor is in contact with the earth. Ventilation between the earth and floor is rarely seen in Cuba. In Havana the average height of the ground floor is from 7 to 11 inches above the pavement, but in Havana, and more frequently in other Cuban towns, one often encounters houses which are entered by stepping down from the sidewalk, and some floors are even below the level of the street. In Havana some of the floors, in Matanzas more, in Cardenas and Cienfuegos many are of the bare earth itself, or of planks raised only a few inches above the damp ground. The narrow entrance about 400 yards in width and 1,200 in length, opens into the irregular harbor, which has three chief coves or indentations, termed "ensena- das." The extreme length of the harbor from its sea entrance to the limit of the most distant ensenada is 3 miles, and its extreme breadth H miles: but within the 374 CUBA Ai^D POETO RICO. entrance the average length is only about 1, and the average breadth about two-thirds of a mile. However, because of the irregularly projecting points of land which form the ensenadas, there is no locality in the harbor where a vessel can possibly anchor farther than 500 yards from the shore. Its greatest depth is about 40 feet, but the anchorage ground for vessels drawing 18 feet of water is very contracted, not exceed- ing one-half the size of the harbor. The rise and fall of the tide does not exceed 2 feet. The Cuban city next in celebrity to Havana is Matanzas, and it is one likely to become a favorite of Americans, as the country in the vicinity is distinguished by beauty as well as remarkable for fertility. Matanzas was first regularly settled in 1693. It is in the province of Matanzas, 54 miles west of Havana, by the most di- rect of the two railroads which unite these two cities, and is situated on the western inland extremity of the bay of Matanzas, a harbor of the first class. Matanzas is divided into three districts, viz, the central district of Matanzas, which, about half a mile in width across the center of population, lies between the two little rivers, San Juan to the south, and the Yumuri to the north; the Pueblo Nuevo district, south of the San Juan, and around the inland extremity of the harbor; and the dis- trict of Versalles, north of the Yumuri, nearest to the open sea, as also to the an- chorage ground, and, sanitarily, the best situated district in the city. About two- thirds of the population are in the district of Matanzas, and the Pueblo Nuevo district has about double the population of Versalles. Pueblo Nuevo stands on ground originally a swamp, and is low, flat, and only 3 or 4 feet above the sea. The Ma- tanzas district has many houses on equally low ground, on the harbor front, and on the banks of the two rivers which inclose this district; but from the front and be- tween these rivers the ground ascends, so that its houses are from 2 to even 100 feet above the sea; however, the center of population, the public square, is only about 20 feet above sea level. Versalles is on a bluff of the harbor, and its houses are situated, for the most part, from 15 to 40 feet above the sea. The district of Matanzas has ill constructed and useless sewers in only two streets, and no houses connected therewith. So much of this district and of Versalles as is built on the hill slope is naturally well drained, but the Pueblo Nuevo district, and those parts of Matanzas built in immediate proximity to the banks of the river, are very ill drained. Since 1872 Matanzas has had an aqueduct from the Bello spring, 7 miles distant. The supply is alleged to be both abundant and excellent. But of the 4,710 houses in the city 840 stand on the hills outside the zone supplied by the waterworks, while of the remaining 3,870 houses within this zone only about 2,000 get their water CUBA AXD PORTO RICO. 375 from the waterworks company. Hence more than half of the houses of Matanzas ^2,710) do for the most part get their supply in kegs by purchase in the streets. There are a few public fountains^ as also some dangerous wells. The streets are 30 feet wide, with 24 feet w^agon way. Few of them are paved, some are very pooi roads, but, for the most part, these roads are in good condition. In the Matanzas dis- i;rict some of the streets are of solid stone, and natural foundation rock of the place, ior the superficial soil is so thin that the foundation rocks often crop out. Of this Tery porous rock most of the houses are built. The houses have wider fronts, larger .-air spaces in rear, are not so crowded, and are better ventilated than the houses of Havana. As is usual in Cuba, the ground floors are generally on a level with the .sidewalk, and some are even below the level of the streets. A heavy rain floods many of the streets of Matanzas, the water running back into and beneath the houses. The porous limestone of which the houses are built greatly favors absorption. The population of Matanzas and suburbs was about 50,000 at the beginning of the war. Porto Rico is not quite as large as Connecticut, but larger than the States of Del- aware and Rhode Island. The climate of the island is delightful, and its soil exceed- ingly rich. In natural resources it is of surpassing opulence. The length of the island is about one hundred miles, and its breadth thirty-five, the general figure of it being like the head of a sperm whale. The range of mountains is from east to ivest, and nearly central. The prevalent winds are from the northwest, and the Tainfall is much heavier on the northern shores and mountain slopes than on the ^southern. The height of the ridge is on the average close to 1,500 feet, one bold peak, the Anvil being 3,600 feet high. The rainy north and the droughty south, with the lift of the land from the low shores to the central slopes and rugged eleva- tions, under the tropical sun, with the influence of the great oceans east, south and north, and the multitude of western and southern islands, give unusual and charm- ing variety in temperature. Porto Rico is, by the American people, even more than the Spaniards, associated with Cuba. But is is less than a tenth of Cuban propor- tions. Porto Rico has 3,600 square miles to Cuba's 42,000, but a much greater proportion of Porto Rico than of Cuba is cultivated. Less than one-sixteenth of the area of Cuba has been improved, and while her population is but 1,600,000, ac- -cording to the latest census, and is not so much now, Porto Rico, with less than a tenth of the land of Cuba, has half the number of inhabitants. Largely Porto Eico is peopled by a better class than the mass of the Cubans. Cuba is wretchedly provided with roads, one of the reasons why the Spaniards were incapable of putting 376 CUBA AXD PORTO EICO. down insurrections. If they had expended a fair proportion of the revenues de- rived from the flourishing plantations and the monopolies of Spanish favoritism^, that built up Barcelona and enriched Captain-Generals, and in less degree other public- servants, the rebellions would have been put down. The Spanish armies in Cuba, however, were rather managed for official speculation and peculation, were more- pronunaders than in military enterprise and the stern business of w^ar. With We'yler for an opponent, Gomez, as a guerilla, could have dragged on a series of skirmishes indefinitely. The story of the alleged war in Cuba between the Span- iards and the Cubans was on both sides falsified, and the American people deceived.. Porto Rico does not seem to have appealed so strongly to the cupidity of the Span- iards as Cuba did, and to have been governed with less brutality. The consequence- is there has not been a serious insurrection in the smaller island for seventy years^. and it falls into our possession without the impoverishment and demoralization of the devastation of war — one of the fairest gems of the ocean. It was October 18th that the American flag was raised over San Juan. The fol- lowing dispatch is the official record: "San Juan, Porto Rico, Oct. 18. — Secretary of War, Washington, D. C: Flags, have been raised on public buildings and forts in this city and saluted with national salutes. The occupation of the island is now complete. "BROOKE, Chairman.^^ On the morning of the 18th, the 11th regular infantry with two batteries of the 5th artillery landed. The latter proceeded 4o the forts, while the infantry line^ up on the docks. It was a holiday for San Juan and there were many people in the^ streets. Rear-Admiral Schley and General Gordon, accompanied by their staffs,. proceeded to the palace in carriages. The 11th infantry regiment and band with Troop H, of the 6th United States cavalry then marched through the streets and. formed in the square opposite the palace. At 11:40 a. m., General Brooke, Admiral Schley and General Gordon, the United^ States evacuation commissioners, came out of the palace with many naval officers-^ and formed on the right side of the square. The streets behind the soldiers were- thronged with townspeoeple, who stood waiting in dead silence. At last the city clock struck 12, and the crowds, almost breathless and with eyes- fixed upon the flagpole, watched for developments. At the sound of the first gun from Fort Morro, Major Dean and Lieutenant Castle, of General Brooke's staff,. hoisted the stars and stripes, while the band played "The Star Spangled Banner."' All heads were bared and the crowds cheered. Fort- Morro, Fort San Cristobal and CUBA AND POKTO EICO. 377 the United States revenue cutter Manning, lying in the harbor, fireJ twenty-one guns each. Senor Munoz Eivera, who was president of the recent autonomist council of sec- retaries, and other officials of the late insular government were present at the pro- ceedings. Many American flags were displayed. Acknowledgment has been made of the better condition of Porto Rico than of Cuba, but the trail of the serpent of colonial Spanish government appears. Mr. Alfred Somamon writes in the Independent: "The internal administration of the island disposes of a budget of about $3,300,- 000, and is a woeful example of corrupt officialism. Of this sum only about $650,000 is expended in the island, the remainder being applied to payment of interest on public debt, salaries of Spanish officials, army, navy, and other extra-insular ex- penditures. But the whole of the revenue is collected in the island." An article of great value by Eugene Deland, appeared in the Chatauquan of September, on the characteristics of Porto Eico, and we present an extract, showing its admirable distinction of accurate information well set forth: "The mountain slopes are covered with valuable timbers, cabinet and dye-woods, including mahogany, w^alnut, lignum vitae, ebony, and logwood, and various medic- inal plants. Here, too, is the favorite zone of the coffee tree, which thrives best one thousand feet above sea level. The valleys and plains produce rich harvests of sugar- cane and tobacco. The amount of sugar yielded by a given area is said to be greater than in any other West Indian island. Eice, of the mountain variety and grown without flooding, flourishes almost any place and is a staple food of the laboring classes. In addition to these products cotton and maize are commonly cultivated, and yams, plantains, oranges, bananas, cocoanuts, pineapples, and almost every other tropical fruit are grown in abundance. Among indigenous plants are several noted for their beautiful blossoms. Among these are the coccoloba, which grows mainly along the coasts and is distinguished by its large, yard-long purple spikes, and a talauma, with magnificent, ororous, white flow^ers. "Of wild animal life Porto Eico has little. No poisonous serpents are found, but pestiferous insects, such as tarantulas, centipedes, scorpions, ticks, fleas, and mosquitos, supply^ this deficiency in a measure. All sorts of domestic animals are raised, and the excellent pasture-lands support large herds of cattle for export and home consumption, and ponies, whose superiority is recognized throncliont Uu^ Wo^t Indies. "The mineral wealth of the island is undeveloped, but traces of gold, copper, iron. 378 CUBA AND PORTO RICO. lead, and coal are found. Salt is procured in considerable quantities from the lakes. "Porto Rico carries on an extensive commerce, chiefly with Spain, the United States, Cuba, Germany, Great Britain, and France. In 1895 the yolume of its trade was one-half greater than that of the larger British colony — Jamaica. The United States ranks second in amount of trade with the island. During the four years from 1893-96 Spain's trade with the colony averaged $11,402,888 annually, and the United States, $5,028,544. The total value of Porto Rican exports for 1896 was $18,341,-= 430, and of imports, $18,282,690, making\ a total of $36,624,120, which was an excess over any previous year. The exports consist almost entirely of agricultural products. In 1895 coffee comprised about sixty per cent, and sugar about twenty- eight per cent, of their value; leaf tobacco, molasses, and honey came next. Maize, hides, fruits, nuts, and distilled spirits are also sent out in considerable quantities. Over one-half of the coffee exported goes to Spain and Cuba, as does most of the to- bacco, which is said to be used in making the finest Havana cigars; the sugar and molasses are, for the most part, sent to the United States. Among imports, manu- factured articles do not greatly exceed agricultural. Rice, fish, meat and lard, flour, and manufactured tobacco are the principal ones. Customs duties furnish about two-thirds of the Porto Rican revenue, which has for several years yielded greater returns to Spain than that of Cuba. "The climate of Porto Rico is considered the healthiest in the Antilles. The heat is considerably less than at Santiago de Cuba, a degree and a half farther north. The thermometer seldom goes above 90 degrees. Pure water is readily obtained in most of the island. Yellow fever seldom occurs, and never away from the coast. The rainy season begins the first of June and ends the last of December, but the heavy downpours do not come on until about August 1st. "In density of population also this island ranks first among the West Indies, having half as many inhabitants as Cuba, more than eleven times as large. Of its 807,000- people, 326,000 are colored and many of the others of mixed blood. They differ little from other Spanish- Americans, being fond of ease, courteous, and hos- pitable, and, as in other Spanish countries, the common people are illiterate, public education having been grievously neglected. The natives are the agriculturists of the country, and are a majority in the interior, while the Spaniards, who control business and commerce, are found mainly in the towns and cities. "The numerous good harbors have naturally dotted the seaboard with cities and towns of greater or less comnxcreial importance. San Juan, Ponce, Mayaguez, Aguadilla, Arecibo and Fajardo all carry on extensive trade. Intercourse between CUBA AXD PORTO RICO. 379 coast towns is readily had by water, but is to be facilitated by a railroad around the island, of which 13T miles have been built and 170 miles more projected. The public highways of the island are in better condition than one might expect. Ac- cording to a recent report of United States Consul Stewart, of San Juan, there are about one hundred and fifty miles of good road. The best of this is the military high- way connecting Ponce on the southern coast with. San Juan on the northern. This is a macadamized road, so excellently built and so well kept up that a recent traveler in the island says a bicycle corps could go over it without dismounting. Whether it is solid enough to stand the transportation of artillery and heavy army trains we shall soon know. Of telegraph lines Porto Rico has four hundred and seventy miles, and two cables connect it with the outside world, one running from Ponce and the other from San Juan." Mr. Alfred Solomon, already quoted as an instructive contributor to the Inde- pendent, writes: "The population of Porto Rico, some 800,000, is essentially agricultural. A varied climate, sultry in the lowlands, refreshing and invigorating in the mountain ranges, makes possible the cultivation of almost every variety of known crop — suo-ar, tobacco, coffee, annatto, maze, cotton and ginger are extensively grown; but there are still thousands of acres of virgin lands awaiting the capitalist. Tropical fruits flourish in abundance, and the sugar-pine is well known in our market, where it brings a higher price than any other pine imported. Hardwood and fancy cabinet wood trees fill the forests, and await the woodman's ax. Among these are some specimens of unexampled beauty, notably a tree, the wood of which, when polished, resembles veined marble, and another, rivaling in beauty the feathers in a peacock's tail. Precious metals abound, although systematic effort has never been directed to the locating of paying veins. Rivers and rivulets are plenty, and water-power is abundant; and the regime should see the installation of power plants and electric lighting all over the island, within a short time after occupation. On the lowlands, large tracts of pasturage under guinea grass and malojilla feed thousands of sleek cattle, but, as an article of food, mutton is almost unknown. The native pony, small, wiry and untirable, has a world-wide reputation, and for long journeys is unequaled, possessing a gait, as they say in the island, like an arm-chair. "Perhaps a third of the population of the island is of African descent; but, strangely enough, the colored people are only to be found on the coast, and are the fishermen, boatmen and laborers of the seaports. The cultivation of the crops is entirely in the hands of the jibaro, or peasant, who is seldom of direct S->anish 380 CUBA AXD PORTO EICO. descent, while the financiering and exportation is conducted almost entirely by peninsnlares, or Spanish-born colonists, who monopolize every branch of commerce to the exclusion of the colonian-born subject. "Coffee planting is largely engaged in, returning from ten to fifteen per cent, on capital. Improved transportation facilities, abolition of export dues and the con- solidation of small estates would, doubtless, help toward better results. This crop is marketed in Europe — London, Havre and Barcelona — where better prices are ob- tainable than in Ney^ York. With the exception of a few plantations in strong hands, most of this property could be purchased at a fair valuation, and would prove to be a very profitable investment. "Cocoa grows wild on the lowlands, 'but has not been cultivated to any apprecia- ble extent. Small consignments sent to Europe have been pronounced superior to the Caracas bean. The tree takes a longer period than coffee to come to maturity and bear fruit; but once in bearing the current expenses are less and the yield far greater. The same remarks apply to the cultivation of rubber, which, although a most profitable staple with an ever-increasing market, has received no attention whatever. '"Corn is raised in quantities insufficient for home consumption. Of this cereal three crops can be obtained in two years; sometimes two a year. The demand is constant, and the price always remunerative. "In Porto Rico, as in most other West Indian islands, sugar is king. In the treatment of this product the lack of capital has been sadly felt. Planters possess only the most primitive machinery, and in the extraction of the juice from the cane the proportion of saccharine matter has been exceedingly small. Great outlay is necessary for the installation of a complete modern crushing and centrifugal plant.'' A flattering picture of our new possessions is drawn in McClure's Magazine, by Mr. George B. Waldron. "Here, then, are Cuba and Porto Rico in the Atlantic, and the Hawaiian and Philippine groups in the Pacific, whose destiny has become intertwined with our own. Their combined area is 168,000 square miles, equahng New England, New York, Pennsylvania, and New Jersey. Their population is about 10,000,000, or perhaps one-half of that of these nine home States. The Philippines, with three-quarters of the entire population, and Porto Rico, with 800,000 people, alone approach our own Eastern States in density. Cuba, prior to the war, was about as well populated as Virginia, and the Hawaiian group is as well peopled as Kansas. What, then, can these islands do for us? CUBA AND PORTO RICO. 381 ^^Americans use more sugar in proportion to population than any other nation of the world. The total consumption last year was not less than 2,500,000 tons. This is enough to make a pyramid that would overtop the tallest pyramid of Egyptian lame. Of this total, 2,200,000 tons came from foreign countries, the Spanish pos- sessions and Hawaii sending about twent3'-five per cent. Five years earlier, when •our imports were less by half a million tons, these islands supplied double this quantity, or nearly two-thirds of the nation's entire sugar import. But that was before Cuba had been devastated by war and when she was exporting 1,100,000 tons of sugar to other countries. Restore Cuba to her former fertility, and the total sugar -crop of these islands will reach 1,500,000 tons_, or two-thirds our present foreign •demand.^' There is much more in Mr. Waldron's summary of the vast addition that has l)een made to our resources by the occupation and possession of the islands that have recently been gathered under our Vvdngs by the force of our arms. It is enough to know that with the tropical islands we have gained, we have in our hands the potentialities, the luxuries, the boundless resources including, as we may, and must, Alaska, of all the zones of the great globe that we inhabit in such ample measure. The following notes were compiled for the information of the army, and embody :all reliable information available. The notes were intended to supplement the military map of Porto Rico. The following books and works were consulted and matter from them freelv used in the preparation of the notes: Guia Geografico Militar de Espana y Provincias Ultramarinas, 1879; Espana, sus Monumentos y Artes, su N"aturaleza e Historia, 1887; Compendio de Geografia Militar de Espana y Portugal, 1882; Anuario deComer- •cio de Espana, 1896; Anuario Militar-de Espana, 1898; Reclus, Nouvelle Geographic Universelle, 1891; Advance Sheets American Consular Reports, 1898; An Account -4)f the Present State of the Island of Porto Rico, 1831; The Statesman's Year Book, 1898. Situation. — Porto Rico is situated in the Torrid Zone, in the easternmost part of the Antilles, between latitude 17 deg. 54 min. and 18 deg. 30 min. 40 sec. N". and longitude 61 deg. 54 min. 26 sec. and 63 deg. 32 min. 32 sec. AY. of Madrid. It is J)0unded on the north by the Atlantic, on the east and soiitli by the sea of the Antilles, and on the west by the Mona Channel. Size. — The island of Porto Rico, the fourth in size of the AntiHes, has. ac- cording to a recent report of the British consul (1897), an extent of about 3,668 382 CUBA AXD POETO RICO. square miles — 35 miles broad and 95 miles long. It is of an oblong form, extending; from east to west. Population. — Porto Eico is the first among the Antilles in density of population, and in prosperit}^ The Statesman's Year Book, 1898, gives the population (1887)^ at 813,937, of which over 300,000 are negroes, this being one of the few countries of tropical America where the number of whites exceeds that of other races. The- whites and colored, however, are all striving in the same movement of civilization^, and are gradually becoming more alike in ideas and manners. Among the white population the number of males exceeds the number of females, which is the con- trary of all European countries. ' This is partly explained by the fact that the immigrants are mostly males. On an average the births exceed the deaths by double.. The eastern portion of the island is less populous than the western. Soil. — The ground is very fertile, being suitable for the cultivation of cane, coffee^, rice, and other products raised in Cuba, which island Porto Eico resembles in rich- ness and fertility. Climate. — The climate is hot and moist, the medium temperature reaching 104 degs. F. Constant rains and winds from the east cool the heavy atmosphere of the low regions. On the heights of the Central Cordillera the temperature is healthy and agreeable. Iron rusts and becomes consumed, so that nothing can be constructed of this metal. Even bronze artillery has to be covered with a strong varnish to protect it; from the damp winds. Although one would suppose that all the large islands in the Tropics enjoyed the same climate, yet from the greater mortality observed in Jamaica, St. Domingo^, and Cuba, as compared with Porto Eico, one is inclined to believe that this latter island is much more congenial than any of the former to the health of Europeans.. The heat, the rains, and the seasons are, with very trifling variations, the same in all.. But the number of mountains and running streams, which are everywhere in view^ in Porto Eico, and the general cultivation of the land, may powerfully contribute- to purify the atmosphere and render it salubrious to man. The only difference of temperature to be observed throughout the island is due to altitude, a change which is common to every country under the influence of the Tropics. In the mountains the inhabitants enjoy the coolness of spring, while the valleys would be uninhabitable were it not for the daily breeze which blows generally from the northeast and east. For example, in Ponce the noonday sun is felt in all its rigor^ while at the village of Adjuntas, 4 leagues distant in the interior of the mounta^ins^ CUBA AND PORTO RICO. 383 the traveler feels invigorated by the refreshing breezes of a temperate clime. At one place the thermometer is a« high as 90 (leg., while in another it is someLiiiies under 60 deg. Although the seasons are not so distinctly marked in tbis climate as they are in Europe (the trees being always green), yet there is a distinction to be made between them. The division into Avet and dry seasons (winter and summer) does not give a proper idea of the seasons in this island; for on the north coast it sometimes rains almost the whole year, wdiile sometimes for twelve or fourteen months not a drop of rain falls on the south coast. However, in the mountains at the south there are daily showers. Last year, for example, in the months of ISTovember, December, and January the north winds blew with violence, accompanied by heavy showers of rain, while this year (1832) in the same months, it has scarcely blown a whole day from that point of the compass, nor has it rained for a whole month. Therefore, the climate of the north and south coasts of this island, although under the same tropical influence, are essentially different. As in all troj)ical countries, the year is divided into two seasons — the dry and the rainy. In general, the rainy season commences in August and ends the last of December, southerly and westerly winds prevailing during this period. The rain- fall is excessive, often inundating fields and forming extensive lagoons. The exhala- tions from these lagoons give rise to a number of diseases, but, nevertheless, Porto Rico is one of the healthiest islands of the archipelago. In the month of May the rains commence, not with the fury of a deluge, as in the months of August and September, but heavier than any rain experienced in Europe. Peals of thunder reverberating through the mountains give a warning of their approach, and the sun breaking through the clouds promotes the prolific vegeta- tion of the fields yith its vivifying heat. The heat at this season is equal to the sum- mer of Europe, and the nights are cool and pleasant; but the dews are heavy and pernicious to health. The following meteorological observations, carefully made by Don Jose Ma. Vertez, a Captain of the Spanish navy, will exhibit the average range of temperature: Degrees of heat observed in the capital of Porto Rico, taking a mediuHi of five years. Degrees of Heat Observed in the Capital of Porto Rico, taking a Medioi op Five Years. Hours of the Day. i 1-3 1 1 < 1 be P < 1 1 77 85 82 > o 75 84 80 i Seven in the morning 72 83 78 721 81" 74 74 82 78 78 83 80 78 85 81 82 86 84 85 00 87 86 92 90 801 88* 88 75 Noon 80 Five m the evening 79 384 CUBA AND PORTO EICO. Tlic v^eatlier, after a fifteen or twenty days' rain, clears up and the sun, whose lieat has been hitherto moderated by partial clouds and showers of rain, seems, as it were, set in a cloudless sky. The cattle in the pastures look for the shade of the trees, and a perfect calm pervades the whole face of nature from sunrise till be- tween 10 and 11 o'clock in the morning, when the sea breeze sets in. The leaves of the trees seem as if afraid to move, and the sea, without a wave or ruffle on its vast expanse, appears like an immense mirror. Man partakes in the general lan- ^our as well as the vegetable and brute creation. The nights, although warm, are delightfully clear and serene at this season. Objects may be clearly distinguished at the distance of several hundred yards, so that one may even shoot by moonlight. The months of June and July offer very little variation in the weather or temperature. In August a suffocating heat reigns throughout the day, and at night it is useless to seek for coolness; a faint zephyr is succeeded by a calm of several hours. The atmosphere is heavy and oppressive, and the body, weakened by perspiration, becomes languid; the appetite fails, and the mosquitos, buzzing about the ears by day and night, perplex and annoy by their stings, while the fevers of the tropics attack Europeans with sudden and irresistible violence. This is the most sickly season for the European. The thermometer fre- quently exceeds 90 deg. The clouds exhibit a menacing appearance, portending the approach of the heavy autumnal rains, which pour down like a deluge. About the middle of September it appears as if all the vapors of the ocean had accumu- lated in -one point of the heavens. The rain comes down like an immense quantity of water poured through a sieve; it excludes from the view every surrounding object, and in half an hour the whole surface of the earth becomes an immense sheet of water. The rivers are swollen and overflow their banks, the low lands are completely inundated, and the smallest brooks become deep and rapid torrents. In the month of October the weather becomes sensibly cooler than during the preceding months, and in November the north and northeast winds generally set in, diffusing an agreeable coolness through the surrounding atmosphere. The body becomes braced and active, and the convalescent feels its genial influence. The north wind is accompanied (with few exceptions) by heavy showers of rain on the north coast; and the sea rolls on that coast with tempestuous violence, while the south coast remains perfectly calm. When the fury of the north wind abates, it is succeeded by fine weather and a clear sky. Nothing can exceed the climate of Porto Rico at this season; one can only v^mpare it to the month of May in the delightful Province of Andalusia, where the CUBA AXD POETO RICO. ^S'^ €old of winter and the burning heat of summer are tempered by the cool freshness of spring. This is considered to be the healthiest season of the 3'ear, when a Euro- pean may visit the tropics without fear. The small islands, destitute of wood and high mountains, i\diich have a powerful effect in attracting the clouds, suffer much from drought. It sometimes happens that in Curacao, St. Bartholomews, and other islands there are whole years without a drop of rain, and after exhausting their cisterns the inhabitants are compelled to import water from the rivers of other islands. "The land breeze" is an advantage which the large islands derive from the in- equality of their surface: for as soon as the sea breeze dies away, the hot air of the valleys being rarified, ascends toward' the tops of the mountains, and is there con- densed by cold, which makes it specifically heavier than it was before; it then de- scends back to the valleys on both sides of the ridge. Hence a night wind (blowing on all sides from the land toward the shore) is felt in all the mountainous countries under the torrid zone. On the north shore the wind comes from the south, and on the south shore from the north. Storms. — The hurricanes which visit the island, and which obey the general laws of tropical cyclones, are one of the worst scourges of the country. For hours before the appearance of this terrible phenomenon the sea appears calm; the waves come from a long distance very gently until near the shore, when they suddenly rise as if impelled by a superior force, dashing against the land with extraordinary violence and fearful noise. Together with this sign, the air is noticed to be disturbed, the sun red, and the stars obscured by vapor which seems to magnify them. A strong odor is perceived in the sea, which is sulphureous in the waters of rivers, and there are sudden changes in the wind. These omens, together with the signs of un- easiness manifested by various animals, foretell the proximity of a hurricane. This is a sort of whirlwind, accompanied by rain, thunder and light- ning, sometimes by earthquake shocks, and always by the most terri- ble and devastating circumstances that can possibly combine to ruin a country in a few hours. _ A clear, serene day is followed by the darkest night; the delightful view offered by woods and prairies is diverted into the deary waste of a cruel winter; the tallest and most robust cedar trees are uprooted, broken off bodity, and hurled into a heap; roofs, balconies, and windows of houses are carried through the air like dry leaves, and in all directions are seen houses and estates laid waste and throvrn into confusion. The fierce roar of the water and of the trees being destroyed by the winds, 386 CUBA AND PORTO RICO. the cries and moans of persons^ the bellowing of cattle and neighing of horses^ which are being carried from place to place by the whirlwinds, the torrents of water inundating the fields, and a deluge of fire being let loose in flashes and streaks of lightning, seem to announce the last convulsions of the universe and the death agonies of nature itself. Sometimes these hurricanes are felt only on the north coast, at others on the south coast, although generally their influence extends throughout the island. In 1825 a hurricane destroyed the towns of Patillas, Maunabo, Yabucoa, Hu- macao, Gurabo, and Caguas, causing much damage in other towns in the east, norths and center of the island. The island was also visited by a terrible hurricane in 1772. Earthquakes. — Earthquakes are somewhat frequent, but not violent or of great consequence. The natives foretell them by noticing clouds settle near the ground for some time in the open places among the mountains. The water of the springs emits a sulphurous odor or leaves a strange taste in the mouth; birds gather in large flocks and fly about uttering shriller cries than usual; cattle bellow and horses neigh, etc. A few hours beforehand the air becomes calm and dimmed by vapors which arise from the ground, and a few moments before there is a slight breeze, followed at intervals of two or three minutes by a deep rumbling noise, accompanied by a sudden gust of wind, which are the forerunners of the vibration^ the latter following immediately. These shocks are sometimes violent and are usually repeated, but owing to the special construction of the houses, they cause no damage. Tides. — For seven hours the tide runs rapidly in a northwest direction, return- ing in the opposite direction with equal rapidity for five hours. Orography. — The general relief of Porto Rico is much inferior in altitude to that of the rest of the Great Antilles, and even some of the Lesser Antilles have mountain summits which rival it. A great chain of mountains divides the islands into two parts, northern and southern, which are called by the natives Banda del Norte and Banda del Sur. This chain sends out long ramifications toward the coasts, the interstices of which form beautiful and fertile valleys, composed in the high parts of white and red earths, on the spurs of black and weaker earths, and near the coasts of sand. To the northwest and following a direction almost parallel with the northern coast, the Sierra of Lares extends from Aguadilla to the town of Lares, where it divides into two branches, one going north nearly to the coast, near Arecibo harbor, and the other extending to the spurs of the Sierra Grande de Banos; this- CUBA AND POETO RICO. 387 latter starting from Point Guaniquilla, crosses the island in its entire length, its last third forming the Sierra of Cayey. The whole island may be said to form a continuous network of sierras, hills, and heights. Of these the Sierra del Loquillo is distinguished for its great altitude (the highest peak being Yunque, in the northeast corner of the island and visible from the sea, a distance of 120 kilometers), as is also Laivonito Mountain, near the south coast. The following are the four highest mountains, with their heights above the sea level: Yunque, in Luquillo, 1,290 yards; Guilarte, in Adjuntas, 1,180 yards; La Somanta, in Aybonito, 1,077 yards; Las Tetas de Cerro Gordo, in San German, 860 yards. All are easily ascended on foot or horseback^ and there are coffee plan- tations near all of them. Approximate Height of Towns Above the Sea Level. — Aybonito, with its accli- matization station, 970 yards; Adjuntas, an almost exclusively Spanish town, 810 yards; Cayey, with a very agreeable climate, 750 yards; Lares, with a very agree- able climate, 540 yards; Utuado, with a very agreeable climate, 480 yards; Muricao, an exclusively Spanish town, 480 yards. To ascend to all these towns there are very good wagon roads. There are no fortifications of any kind in them, but they are surrounded on all sides by mountains. Hydrography. — Few countries of the extent of Porto Eico are watered by so many streams. Seventeen rivers, taking their rise in the mountains, cross the val- leys of the north coast and empty into the sea. Some of these are navigable 2 or 3 leagues from their mouths for schooners and small coasting vessels. Those of Manati, Loisa, Trabajo, and Arecibo are very deep and broad, and it is difficult to imagine how such large bodies of water can be collected in so short a course. Owing to the heavy surf which continually breaks on the north coast, these rivers have bars across their embouchures which do not allow large vessels to enter. The rivers of Bayamo and Eio Piedras flow into the harbor of the capital, and are also navigable for boats. At high water small brigs may enter the river of Arecibo with perfect safety and discharge their cargoes, notwithstanding the bar which crosses its mouth. The rivers of the north coast have a decided advantage over those of the south coast, where the climate is drier and the rains less frequent. Nevertheless, the south, west, and east coasts are well supplied with water; and, although in some seasons it does not rain for ten, and sometimes twelve months on the south coast, the rivers are never entirely dried up. 388 CUBA AND POKTO RICu. From the Cabeza de San Juan, which is the northeast extremity of the island, to the cape of Mala Pascua, which lies to the southeast, 9 rivers fall into the sea. From Cape Mala Pascua to Point Aguila, which forms the southwest angle of the island, 16 rivers discharge their waters on the south coast. On the west coast 3 rivers, 5 rivulets, and several fresh-water lakes communicate with the sea. In the small extent of 330 leagues of area there are 46 rivers, besides a countless number of rivulets and branches of navigable water. The rivers of the north coast are stocked with delicious fish, some of them large enough to weigh two quintals. From the river of Arecibo to that of Manati, a distance of 5 leagues, a fresh-water lagoon, perfectly navigable for small vessels through the whole of its extent, runs- parallel to the sea at about a mile from the shore. In the fertile valley of Anasco, on the western coast, there is a canal formed by nature, deep and navigable. None of the rivers are of real military importance;, for, though considering the shortness of their course, they attain quite a volume,, still it is not sufficient for good-sized vessels. The rivers empt3dng on the north coast are Loisa, Aguas Prietas, Arecibo, Baya- mon, Camuy, Cedros, Grande, Guajataca de la Tuna, Lesayas, Loquillo, Manati,. Rio Piedras, Sabana, San Martin, Sibuco, Toa, and Vega. Those emptying on the east coast are Candelero, Dagua, Fajardo, Guayanes^ Majogua, and Maonabo. On the south coast: Aquamanil, Caballon, Cana, Coamo, Descalabrado, Guanica, Guayama, Guayanilla, Jacagua, Manglar, Penuela, Ponce and Vigia. On the west coast: Aguada, Boqueron, Cajas, Culebrina, Chico, Guanajibo,. Mayagiiez, and Rincon. The limits of the Loisa river are: On the east, the sierra of Luquillo (situated near the northeast corner of the island); on the south, the sierra of Cayey, and on the west, ramifications of the latter. It rises in the northern slopes of the sierra of Cayey, and, running in a northwest direction for the first half of its course and turning to northeast in the second half, it arrives at Loisa, a port on the northern coast, where it discharges its waters into the Atlantic. During the first part of its course it is known by the name of Cayagua. The Sabana river has, to the east and south, the western and southern limits of the preceding river, and on the west the Sierra Grande, or De Barros, which is- situated in the center of the general divide, or watershed. It rises in the sierra of Cayey, and, with the name of Pinones river, it flows northwest, passing through Ai- CUBA AND POETO EICO 38^ bonito, Toa Alta, Toa Baja^ and Dorado, wliere it discharges into the Atlantic to the west of the preceding river. The Manati river is bounded on the cast and south by the Sierra Gi:ande and on the west by the Sialep ridge. It rises in the Sierra Grande, and parallel with the preceding river, i<" "^ow ihrough Siales and Manati, to the north of which latter town it empties into the Atlantic. The Arecibo river is bounded on the east by the Siales mountain ridge, on the south by the western extremity of the Sierra Grande, and on the west by the X^ares- ridge. It rises in the general divide, near Adjuntas, and flows north through the town of Arecibo to the Atlantic, shortly before emptying into which it receives the Tanama river from the left, which proceeds from the Lares Mountains. The Culebrina river is bounded on the south and east by the Lares mountain ridge, and on the north by small hills of little interest. From the Lares Mountains it flows from east to west and empties on the west coast north of San Francisco de la Aguada, in the center of the bay formed between Point Penas Blancas and Point San Francisco. The Anasco river is formed by the Lares mountain ridge. It rises in the eastern extremity of the mountains called Tetas de Cerro Gordo, flowing first northwest and then west, through the town of its name and thence to the sea. The Guanajivo river has to its north the ramifications of the Lares ridge, ta the east the Tetas de Cerro Gordo Mountains, and on the south Torre Hill. In the interior of its basin is tlie mountain called Cerro Montuoso, which separates its waters from those of tis affluent from the right, the Eosaria river. It rises in the general divide, flowing from east to west to Nuestra Senora de Montserrat, where it receives the affluent mentioned, the two together then emptying south of Port Mayaguez. The Coamo river is bounded on the west and north by the Sierra Grande, and on the west by the Coamo ridge. It rises in the former of these sierras, and flowing from north to south it empties east of Coamo Point, after having watered the- town of its name. The Salinas river is bounded on the west by the Coamo ridge, on the north by the general divide, and on the east by the Cayey ridge. It rises in the southern slopes of the Sierra Grande and flowing from north to south through Salinas de Coamo, empties into the sea. Coasts, Harbors, Bays, and Coves. — The northern coast extends in an almost straight line from east to west, and is high and rugged. The only harbors it has :390 CUBA AXD POETO EICO. are the following: San Juan de Porto Eico, surrounded by mangrove swamps and protected by the Cabras and the Cabritas islands and some very dangerous banks; the anchoring ground of Arecibo, somewhat unprotected; and the coves of Cangrejos ^nd Condado. During the months of November, December, and January^ when the wind blows with violence from the east and northeast, the anchorage is danger- ous in all the bays and harbors of this coast, except in the port of San Juan. Ves- sels are often obhged to put to sea on the menacing aspect of the heavens at this sea- -son, to avoid being driven on shore by the heavy squalls and the rolling waves of a boisterous sea, which propel them to destruction. During the remaining months the ports on this coast are safe and commodious, unless when visited by a hurricane, against whose fury no port can offer a shelter, nor any vessel be secure. The ex- cellent port of San Juan is perfectly sheltered from the effects of the north wind. The hill, upon which the town of that name and the fortifications w^hich defend it are built, protects the vessels anchored in the harbor. The entrance of this port is narrow, and requires a pilot; for the canal which leads to the anchorage, although deep enough for vessels of any dimensions, is very narrow, which exposes them to run aground. This port is several miles in extent, and has the advantage of having deep canals to the east, among a wood of mangrove trees, where vessels are perfectly secure during the hurricane months. Vessels of 250 tons can at present unload and take in their cargoes at the wharf. Harbor improvements have been recently made here. On the northwest and west are the coves of Aguadilla, the town of this name being some 4 kilometers inland. There are the small coves of Eincon, Anasco, and Mayaguez, the latter being protected and of sufficient depth to anchor vessels of mod- erate draft; the harbor of Eeal de Cabo Eojo, nearly round, and entered by a narrow channel; and the cove of Boqueron. The spacious bay of Aguadilla is formed by Cape Borrigua and Cape San Francisco. When the north-northwest and southwest winds prevail it is not a safe anchorage for ships. A heavy surf rolling on the shore obliges vessels to seek safety by putting to sea on the appearance of a north wind. Mayaguez is also an open roadstead form^ed by two projecting capes. It has good anchorage for vessels of a large size and is well sheltered from the north winds. The port of Cabo Eojo has also good anchorage. It is situated S. one-fourth N". of the point of Guanajico, at a distance of 5-J miles. Its shape is nearly circular, and it extends from east to west 3 to 4 miles. At the entrance it has 3 fathoms of water, and IG feet in the middle of the harbor. The entrance is a narrovv canal. The south coast abounds in bays and harbors, but is covered with mangroves CUBA AND PORTO RICO. 391 and reefs, the only harbor where vessels of regular draft can enter being Guanica and Ponce. The former of these is the westernmost harbor on the southern coast, being at the same time the best, though the least visited, owing to the swamps and low tracts difficult to cross leading from it to the interior. The nearest towns, San German, Sabana Grande, and Yauco, carry on a small trade through this port. In the port of Guanica, vessels drawing 21 feet of water may enter with perfect safety. Its entrance is about 100 yards wide, and it forms a spacious basin, com- pletely landlocked. The vessels may anchor close to the shore. It has, in the whole extent, from GJ to 3 fathoms, the latter depth being formed in the exterior of the port. The entrance is commanded by two small hills on either side, which if mounted with a few pieces of artillery would defy a squadron to force it. This port would be of immense advantage in time of war. The national vessels and coasters would thus- have a secure retreat from an enemy's cruiser on the south coast. There are nO' wharves, but vessels could disembark troops by running alongside the land and run- ning out a plank. Coamo Cove and Aguirre and Guayama are also harbors. The port of Jovos, near Guayama, is a haven of considerable importance. It is a large and healthy place, and the most Ipanish of any city on the island after San Juan. There are good roads to the capital. Vessels of the largest kind may anchor and ride in safety from the winds, and the whole British navy would find room in its spacious bosom. It has 4 fathoms of water in the shallowest part of the entrance. However, it is difficult to enter this port from June to November, as the sea breaks with violence at the entrance, on account of the southerly winds which reign at that season. It has every convenience of situation and locality for forming docks for the repair of shipping. The large bay of Anasco, on the south coast, affords anchorage to vessels of all sizes. It is also safe from the north winds. Although on the eastern coast there are many places for vessels to anchor, yet none of them are exempt from danger during the north winds except Fajardo, where a safe anchorage is to be found to leeward of two little islands close to the bay, where vessels are completely sheltered. The island of Vieques has also several commodious ports and harbors, where vessels of the largest size may ride at anchor. On the east coast is Cape Cabeza de San Juan, Points Lima, Candeleros, and Nar- anjo, and Cape Mala Pascua; on the south coast, Point Viento, Tigueras, Corchones, Arenas, Fama or Maria, Cucharas, Guayanilla, Guanica, and Morillos de Cabo Rojo; on the west coast, points San Francisco, Cadena, Guanijito, Guaniquilla, and Pala Seco. ^92 CUBA AND PORTO RICO. Highways. — There are few roads or ways of communication which are worthy of ^mention, with the exception of the broad pilve which starts from the capital and runs along the coast^ passing through the following towns: Aguadilla, Bayamon, -Cabo Rojo^ Humacao, Juana Diaz^ Mayaguez^ Ponce,. and San German. It has no bridges; is good in dry weather, but in the rainy season is impassible for wagons and even at times for horsemen. Por interior communication there are only a few local roads or paths. They are usually 2 yards in width, made by the various owners, and can not be well trav- ^eled in rainy weather. They are more properly horse and mule trails, and oblige people to go in single file. In late years much has been attempted to improve the highways connecting the principal cities, and more has been accomplished than in Spanish colonies. There is a good made road connecting Ponce on the southern coast with San Juan the capital. Other good roads also extend for a short distance along the north coast and along the south coast. The road from Guayama is also said to be a passably good one. There are in the islaixd about 150' miles of excellent road, and this is all that re- ceives any attention, transportation being effected elsewhere on horse back. In,- the construction of a road level foundation is sought, and on this is put a heavy layer of crushed rock and brick, which, after having been well packed and rounded, is cov- ered with a layer of earth. This is well packed also, and upon the whole is spread a layer of ground limestone, which is pressed and rolled until it forms almost a glossy surface. This makes an excellent road here where the climate is such that it does not affect it, and when there is no heaA^y traffic, but these conditions being changed, the road, it is thought, v\^ould not stand so well. Prom Palo Seco, situated about a mile and a half from the capital, on the op- posite side of the bay, a carriage road, perfectly level, has been constructed for a distance of 22 leagues to the town of Aguadilla on the west coast, passing through the towns of Vegabaja, Manati, Arecibo, Hatillo, Camuy, and Isabella. This road has been carried for several leagues over swampy lands, which are intersected by deep drains to carry off the water. The road from Aguadilla to Mayaguez is in some parts very good, in other parts only fair. From Aguadilla to Aguada, a distance of a league, the road is excellent and level. Prom thence to Mayaguez, through the village of Rincon and the town of Anasco, the road is generally good, but on the seashore it is sometimes interrupted by shelving rocks. Across the valley of Anasco the road is carried through a boggy tract, with bridges over several deep creeks of fresh water. Prom thence to the CUBA AND PORTO RICO, 393 large commercial town of Mayaguez the road is uneven and requires some improve- ment. But the roads from Mayaguez and Ponce to their respective ports on the seashore can not be surpassed by any in Europe. They are made in a most sub- stantial manner, and their convex form is well adapted to preserve them from the destruction caused by the heavy rains of the climate. These roads have been made over tracts of swampy ground to the seacoast, but with little and timely repair they will last forever. A road, which may be called a carriage road, has been made from Ponce to the village of Adjuntas, situated 5 leagues in the interior of the mountains. The road along the coast, from Ponce to Guayama, is fairly good; from thence to Patillas there is an excellent carriage road for a distance of 3 leagues; from the latter place to the coast is a high road well constructed. From Patillas to Fajardo, on the eastern coast, passing through the towns of Maimavo, Yubacao, Humacao, and Naguabo, thtt roads are not calculated for wheel vehicles, in consequence of being obliged to ascend and descend several steep hills. That which crosses the mountain of Mala Pascaa, dividing the north and east coasts, is a good and solid road, upon which a person on horseback may travel with great ease and safety. The road crossing the valley of Yubacao, which consists of a soft and humid soil, requires more attention than that crossing the mountain of Mala Pascua, which has a fine, sandy soil. From Fajardo to the capital, through the towns of Luquillo, Loisa, and Rio Piedras, the road is tolerably good for persons on horseback as far as Rio Pie- dras, and from thence to the city of San Juan, a distance of 2 leagues, is an ex- cellent carriage road, made by the order and under the inspection of the Captain- General, part of it through a mangrove swamp. Over the river Loisa is a handsome wooden bridge, and on the road near Rio Piedras is a handsome stone one over a deep rivulet. One of the best roads in the island extends from the town of Papino, situated in the mountains, to the town of Aguadilla on the coast, distant 5J leagues, through the village of La Moca; in the distance of 8 leagues from the latter place, it is crossed by 10 deep mountain rivulets, formerly impassable, but over which solid bridges have now been built, with side railings. In the mountainous district within the cir- cumference of a few leagues no less than 47 bridges have been built to facilitate the communication between one place and the other. The following are the roads of 6 meters width, 4J in center of pounded stone. They have iron bridges and are in good shape for travel all the year. (1) San Juan to the Shore near Ponce. — From San Juan to Ponce the central 394 CUBA AND POETO EICO. road is exactly 134 kilometers. Distances along the line are: Rio Piedras, II* Cagiias, 25; to Cayei, 24; Aybonito, 20; Coamo, 18; Juana Diaz, 20; to Ponce, 13; and to the shore, 3. Exact. . (2) San Juan to Bayamon. — By ferry fifteen minutes to Catano, and from there by road to Bayamon 10 kilometers. This passes alongside the railway. (3) Eio Piedras to Mameyes, 36 kilometers; from Eio Piedras to Carolina, 1^; to Eio Grande, 19; to Mameyes, 5. (4) Cayei to Arroyo, 35 kilometers; from Cayei to Guayama, 25; to Arroyo, 8; from San Juan to Arroyo, via Cayei, is 95 kilometers. (5 Ponce to Adjuntas, 32 kilometers. (6) San German to Anasco, 33 kilometers; from San German to Mayaguez, 21 kilometers; Mayaguez to Anasco, 12; Mayaguez to MormiguerOs, 11; Mayaguez to Cabo Eojo, 18; Mayaguez to Las Marias, 23; Mayaguez to Maricao, 35; Hor- migueras to San German, 14. Near Mayaguez the roads are best. There are good roads in all directions. (7) Aguadilla to San Sebastian, 18, (8) Arecibo to Utuado, 33. Highways of first class in the island, 335 kilometers. Along these roads are, at a distance of 8 to 10 kilometers, a fort, stone, an5 brick barracks, or large buildings, where the Spanish troops stop and rest when on the march. Eailroads. — In 1878 a report was presented to the minister of the colonies on a study made by the engineer and head of public works of the island in view of con- structing a railroad which should start from the capital and, passing through all the chief towns and through the whole island, return to the point of departure. Of this railroad the following parts have been completed: San Juan, along the coast through Eio Piedras, Bayamon, Dorado, Arecibo, and Hatillo, to Camuy; Aguadilla, through Aguado, Eincon, Anasco, and Mayaguez, to Hornigueros. A branch of this railroad from Anasco, through San Sebastian, to Lares. Ponce, through Gua3'anilla, to Yauco. This latter railroad follows the southern coast line and is followed by a wagon road throughout its course. In one place the railroad and road run within a few hundred yards of the coast line. According to the Statesman's Year Book for 1898 there are in operation 137 miles of railroad, besides over 170 miles under construction. All the railroads are single track, and the gauge is 1 meter 20 centimeters, or 3 feet llj inches. CUBA AND PORTO RICO. 395 The following are the railways of 1-meter gauge: (1) San Juan to Rio Piedras, 11 kilometers. (2) Catano to Bayamon, 10 kilometers. (3) Anasco to San Sebastian and Lares, 35 kilometers. Total of three lines, 56 kilometers.- The lines are all in good shape; have plenty of engines and cars; speed, 20 kil- limeters per hour; use coal for fuel imported from the United States; supply usually large, may be small now; hard coal; fine stations; plenty of water, and everything in shape for business. Telegraphs. — The capital communicates with the principal towns of the coast and interior by means of a well-connected telegraph system. There are in all some 470 miles of telegraph. Telephones. — The British Consular Report says that the telephone system of San Juan, Ponce, and Mayaguez have recently been contracted for by local syndicates. In Ponce a United States company obtained the contract for the material. There are 100 stations already connected, and it is expected that 200 more will be in opera- tion shortly. Administration. — From an administrative standpoint, Porto Rico is not con- sidered as a colony, but as a province of Spain, assimilated to the remaining prov- inces. The Governor-General, representing the monarchy, is at the same time Cap- tain-General of the armed forces. In each chief tov/n resides a military commander, and each town has its alcalde, or mayor, appointed by the central power. The prov- incial deputation is elected by popular suffrage under the same conditions as in Spain. The regular peace garrison is composed of about 3,000 men, and the annual budget amounts to some 20,000,000 pesos. Education. — In 1887 only one-seventh of the population could read and .write, but of late years progress in public instruction has been rapid. Agriculture, Industry, and Commerce. — In 1878 there arrived in the harbors of the island 1,591 vessels of different nationalities and 1,534 departed. The value of products imported was 14,787,551 pesos, and that of articles exported was 13,070,- 020 pesos. The following are the relative percentages of values: Flags. Relation. Per Cent. Spanish 49.91 American 13.47 Enghsh 21.43 Various Nations 15.19 Total 100.00 396 CUBA AND POETO EICO. Navigation is very active, but the part the inhabitants fake in the commercial fleet is small. The Porto Eicans are not seagoing people. The eastern part of the island offers less advantage to commerce than the western, being to the windward and affording less shelter to vessels. Porto Eico has more than seventy towns and cities, of which Ponce is the most important. Ponce has 22,000 inhabitants, with a jurisdiction numbering 47,000. It is situated on the south coast of the island, on a plain, about 2 miles from the sea- board. It is the chief town of the judicial district of its name, and is 70 miles from San Juan. It is regularly built, the central part almost exclusively of brick houses., and the suburbs of wood. It is the residence of the military commander, and the seat of an official chamber of commerce. There is an appellate criminal court, besides other courts; 2 churches, one Protestant, said to be the only one in the Spanish West Indies; 2 hospitals besides the military hospital, a home of refuge for old and poor, 2 cemeteries, 3 asylums, several casinos, 3 theaters, a market, a municipal public library, 3 first-class hotels, 3 barracks, a park, gas works, a perfectly equipped fire de- partment, a bank, thermal and natural baths, etc. Commercially, Ponce is the second eity of importance on the island. A fine road leads to the port (Playa), where all the import and export trade is transacted. Playa has about 5,000 inhabitants, and here are situated the custom house, the office of the captain of the port, and all the consular offices. The port is spacious and will hold vessels of 25 feet draft. The climate, on account of the sea breezes during the day and land breezes at night, is not oppressive, but very hot and dry; and, as water for all purposes, including the fire department, is amply supplied by an aqueduct 4,442 yards long, it is said that the city of Ponce is perhaps the healthiest place in the whole island. There is a stage coach to San Juan, Mayaguez, Guayama, etc. There is a railroad to Yauco, a post office, and a telegraph station. It is believed that Ponce was founded in 1600; it was given the title of villa in 1848, and in 1877 that of city. Of its 34 streets the best are Mayor, Salud, Villa, Vivos, Marina, and Comercio. The best squares are Principal and Las Delicias, which are separated by the church of Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe. The church, as old as the town itself, began to be reconstructed in 1838 and was finished in 1847. It is 86 yards long by 43 broad, and has two steeples, rich altars, and fine ornaments. The theater is called the Pearl, and it deserves this name, for it is the finest on the island. It has a sculptured porch, on the Byzantine order, with very graceful columns. It is mostly built of iron and marble and cost over 70,000 pesos. It is 52 yards deep by 29 wide. The inside is beautiful, the boxes and seats roomy and CUBA AXD PORTO RICO. 397 nicely decorated. It may, by a mechanical arrangement, be converted into a danc- ing hall. About 1^ miles northeast of the town are the Quintana thermal baths, in a build- ing surrounded by pretty gardens. They are visited by sufferers from rheumatism and various other diseases. San Juan is a perfect specimen of a walled town, wdth portcullis, moat, gates, and battlements. The wall surrounding this town is defended by several batteries. Facing the harbor are those of San Fernando, Santa Catalina, and Santa Toribio. Looking toward the land side is Fort i^banico, and toward the ocean the batteries of San Antonio, San Jose, and Santa Teresa, and Fort Princesa. The land part has two ditches, or cuts, which are easy to inundate. The fort and bridge of San Antonio that of San Geronimo, and the Escambron battery situated on a tongue of land which enters the sea. Built over two hundred and fifty years ago, the city is still in good condition and repair. The walls are picturesque, and represent a stupendous work and cost in themselves. Inside the walls the city is laid off in regular squares, six parallel streets running in the direction of the length of the island and seven at right angles. The peninsula on which San Juan is situated is connected with the mainland by three bridges. The oldest, that of San Antonio, carries the highway across the shallow San Antonio Channel. It is a stone-arched bridge about 350 yards long including the approaches. By the side of this bridge is one for the railroad and one for the tramway which follows the main military highway to Rio Piedras. Among the buildings the following are notable: The palace of the Captain- Oeneral, the palace of the intendencia, the town hall, military hospital, jail, Ballaja barracks, theater, custom house, cathedral. Episcopal palace, and seminary. There is no university or provincial institute of second grade instruction, and only one college, which is under the direction of Jesuit priests. The houses are closely and compactly built of brick, usually of two stories, stuccoed on the outside and painted in a variety of colors. The upper floors are occupied by the more respectable people, while the ground floors, almost without exception, are given up to the negroes and the poorer class, who crowd one upon another in the most appalling manner. The population within the walls is estimated at 20,000 and most of it lives on the ground floor. In one small room, with a flimsy partition, a whole family will reside. The ground floor of the whole town reeks with filth, and conditions are most unsanitary. In a tropical country, where disease readily prevails, the conse- quences of such herding may be easily inferred. There is no running water in the 3^ CUBA AND PORTO EICO. town. The entire population depend upon rain water, caught upon the flat roofs of the buildings and conducted to the cistern, which occupies the greater part of the inner court-yard that is an essential part of Spanish houses the world over, feut that here, on account of the crowded conditions, is very small. There is no sewerage, except for surface water and sinks, while vaults are in every house and ©Ocupy whatever remaining space there may be in the patios not taken up by the cisterns. The risk of contaminating the water is very great, and in dry seasons the supply is entirely exhausted. Epidemics are frequent, and the town is alive with vermin, fleas, cockroaches, mosquitoes, and dogs. The streets are wider than in the older part of Havana, and will admit two car- mges abreast. The sidewalks are narrow, and in places will accommodate but #ne person. The pavements are of a composition manufactured in England from &lag, pleasant and even, and durable when no heavy strain is brought to bear upon them, but easily broken, and unfit for heavy traffic. The streets are swept once a day by hand, and, strange to say, are kept very clean. From its topographical situation the town should be healthy, but it is not. The soil under the city is clay mixed with lime, so hard as to be almost like rock. It is 'consequently impervious to water and furnishes a good natural drainage. The trade wind blows strong and fresh, and through the harbor runs a stream ©f sea water at a speed of not less than three miles an hour. With these conditions no contagious diseases, if properly taken care of, could exist; without them the place would be a veritable plague spot. Besides the town within the walls there are small portions just outside, called t^e Marina and Puerta de Tierra, containing two or three thousand inhabitants each. There are also two suburbs, one, San Turce, approached by the only road leading out of the city, and the other, Catano, across the bay, reached by ferry. The Marina and the two suburbs are situated on sandy points or spits, and the latter are S'Urrounded by mangrove swamps. The entire population of the city and suburbs, according to the census of 1887, was 27,000. It is now (1896) estimated at 30,000. One-half of the population con- sists of negroes and mixed races. There is but little manufacturing, and it is of small importance. The Standard Oil Company has a small refinery across the bay, in which crude petroleum brought from the United States is refined. Matches are made, some brooms, a little soap, and a cheap class of trunks. There are also ice, gas, and electric light works. CHAPTER XXVI. THE LADROXES. The Island of Guam a Coaling Station of the United States — Discovery, Size and Products of the Islands. When the Philippine expeditioji on its way to Manila incidentally ran up the Stars and Stripes over the Island of Guam, there was perhaps no thought of the island becoming a permanent part of our domain. However, the fortunes of war are such that the island is likely to become ours permanently as a coaling station in the Pacific. Magellan named these islands the Ladrones from the Latin word "latro/' mean- ing a robber, because of the thievish propensities of the natives. According to Magellan's reports, the native people of these islands had reduced stealing to a science of such exactness that the utmost vigilance could not prevail against their operations. The group was named the Mariana Islands by the Jesuits, who settled in them in 1667. The Ladrone group consists of twenty islands, of which five are inhabited. The group extends forty-five miles from north to south, and is located between 13 deg. and 21 deg. north latitude, and between 144 deg. and 146 deg. east longitude. The principal islands are Guam, Rota and Linian. They were discovered by Magellan in 1521, and have belonged to Spain ever since. Their population is 11,000. The soil is fertile and densely wooded. The climate is temperate. . Guam, the southernly and principal island, is 100 miles in circumference, and has a population of 8,100, of which 1,400 are Europeans. Its central part is moun- tainous, and it has a small volcano. The products are guacas, bananas, cocoa, oranges and limes. The natives are noted as builders of the most rapidly sailing canoes in the world. With Guam as a part of the territory of the United States, we have a direct line of possessions across the Pacific, in the order of Hawaii, Guam and the Philippines; while in a northwesterly direction from our Pacific coast we have the islands forming a part of Alaska. By holding all these islands we will be prepared to control prac- ticall} the commerce of the Pacific, the future great commercial highway of the world. 399 400 Q 6/\Bl/Jfi.N t^ WAS/L^/l OB- 4^. o O CD cu ^' o ft ;^ m £ I o P^ - cu- CHAPTER XXVII. THE OFFICIAL TITLE TO OUR NEW POSSESSIONS IN THE INDIES. Full Text of the Treaty of Peace with Spain Handed the President of the United States as a Christmas Gift for the People, at the White House, 1898— The Gathered Fruit of a Glorious and Wonderful Victory. On an August midnight the good ship Peru, Major-General Otis with his staff and General Hughes, and a thousand regular cavalry and "the historian of the Philippines'' aboard, approached within a few miles, an immense mass of darkness. About where the mouth of Manila Bay should be there was, deep in the east and at a considerable elevation, a .spark of white, and in a few seconds a red light, keener than stars, and in half a minute there were the sharp flashes again, and we knew that there were friends watching and waiting — that "our flag was still there," that Admiral Dewey and General Merritt of the Navy and Army of the United States had upheld* the symbol of the sovereignty of the Great Republic of North America, that the lights glowed down from the massive rock of Corregidor, that through the shadows that fell on these darksome waters the American squadron had entered into immortality less than four months before, and that with the morning light we should look upon the famous scene of triumphant Americanism. We had been fifteen days out of the woiid, for there were only the southern constellations to tell us, the southern cross so high and the north star so low, and the dazzling scorpion with diamond claws touching the central blue dome, to say how far down into the tropics we were, while the clouds of flame rested on the serenities of the matchless sea; and what had the grea-t deep in its mysterious resplendence been whispering along the enchanting shores of the islands of Asia — the true Indies, Oriental or Occidental as might be — what had the wild waves that beat against the volcanic coasts made known in the boats wafted by the welcoming winds? We knew of the bloody days on the hills of Santiago, and the fate of the fleet of Admiral Cervera, and there must be news of other victories! Our ship turned away from the looming rock that sent forth flashes as if to say all is well, in the universe that we in our vast adventure had almost abandoned. And when the day dawned and the green hills and blue mountains and the silvery waters were revealed we turned to the left, where Dewey led his squadron to the right, and there was the bay hundred and twenty knots in circumference. Yonder were the white walls o£ 401 402 OFFICIAL TITLE TO OUK NEW POSSESSIONS IN THE INDIES. Cavite, and further along domes and steeples, masts and heavy lines of buildings, a wide spread city crouching on a plain rising a few feet above the tides. It was Manila. Presently a boat swept near, and what was that, a dozen words repeated here and there — Merritt in possession of the city — of course, that was what he was there for, — but who said "there was a declaration of peace?" The strange statement was made. What — could it be that Spain had surrendered? Surely the President would not stop pushing things until he had gathered the fruits of victory? No, there was a protocol, and that was a treaty in fact! France had been the medium of negotiation. Spain had sued for peace, and terms were granted. Cuba was sur- rendered. Porto Eico was ceded to us. The Spaniards claimed that they had given up Manila after peace was settled, and they must repossess it. But Merritt was ashore was he not, and going to stay? Dewey had not given up anything, had he? Surely not! But there was to be a conference, a meeting of joint commissioners held at Paris to provide a treaty, that was to say the details — all the important points were fixed irrevocably except the fate of the Philippines! At this point the 'news of the morning gave out, all except the particulars of the seige, the high claims of the Spaniards, the dissatisfaction of the insurgents. It was some days before the realiza- tion of the situation was perfected. The full terms of the protocol were not made known at once. Spain gave up the West Indies and a Ladrone island, and the United States was to hold the city, bay and harbor of Manila pending the conclusion of a treaty of peace which should determine the control, disposition and govern- ment of the Philippines. Certainly this was the conclusive surrender of Spain! General Merritt was ordered to Paris, and there represented the army of the United States, and its faith and honor and glory. Our Peace Commissioners were Wm. E. Day, Cushman K. Davis, William P. Frye, George Gray and Whitelaw Eeid, who started for Paris September 18. The Spanish Commissioners made a long struggle, and protracted their unhappy task for more than two months, using all arts of procrastination and persuasion, claiming that the United States should pay the Cuban debt, and striving for allowances of indemnity, yielding at last to the in- evitable. The text of the treaty is in seventeen articles as follows: Article I. — Spain renounces all right of sovereignty over Cuba. Whereas said isle when evacuated by Spain is to be occupied by the United States, the United States, (v^hile the occupation continues, shall take upon themselves and fulfill the obligations which, by the fact of occupation, international law imposes on them for the protec- tion of life and property. Article II.— Spain cedes to the United States the Island of Porto Eico and the other islands now under her sovereignty in the West Indies and the Isle of Guam in the archipelago of the Marianas or Ladrones. OFFICIAL TITLE TO OUR NEW POSSESSIONS IN TJIE INDIES. 4^ 3 Article III. — Spain cedes to the United States the archipelago known as the Philippine Islands, which comprise the islands situated betw^een the following lines: A line which runs west to east near the twentieth parallel of north latitude across the center of the navigable canal of Bachi, from the 118th to the 127th degrees of longitude east of Greenwich, from here to the width of the 127th degree of longitude east to parallel 4 degrees 45 minutes of north latitude. From here following the parallel of north latitude 4 degrees 45 minutes to its intersection wdth the meridian of longitude 119 degrees 35 minutes east from Greenwich. From here following the meridian of 119 degrees 35 minutes east to the parallel of latitude 7 degrees 40 minutes north. From here following the parallel of 7 degrees 40 minutes north to its intersection with 116 degrees longitude east. From here along a straight line to the intersection of the tenth parallel of latitude north with the 118th meridian east, and from here following the 118th meridian to the point whence began this de- marcation. The United States shall pay to Spain the sum of $20,000,000 within three months after the interchange of the ratifications of the present treaty. Article IV. — The United States shall, during the term of ten years, counting from the interchange of the ratifications of the treaty, admit t« the ports of the Phihppine Islands Spanish ships and merchandise under the same conditions as the ships and merchandise of the United States. Article V. — The United States, on the signing of the present treaty, shall trans- port to Spain at their cost the Spanish soldiers whom the American forces made prisoners of war wheii Manila was captured. The arms of these soldiers shall be re- turned to them. Spain, on the interchange of the ratifications of the present treaty, shall proceed to evacuate the Philippine Islands, as also Guam, on conditions similar to those agreed to by the commissions named to concert the evacuation of Porto Rico and the other islands in the Western Antilles according to the protocol of Aug. 12, 1898, which shall continue in force until its terms have been completely complied with. The term within which the evacuation of the Philippine Islands and Guam shall be completed shall be fixed by both Governments. Spain shall retain the flags and stands of colors of the warships not captured, small arms, cannon of all calibers,, with their carriages and accessories, powders, munitions, cattle, material and elTects of all kinds belonging to the armies of the sea and land of Spain in the Philippines and Guam. The pieces of heavy caliber which are not field artillery mounted ir. fortifications and on the coasts shall remain in their places for a period of six months from the interchange of the ratifications of the present treat}^, and the United States may during that period buy from Spain said material if both Governments arrive at a satisfactory agreement thereon. Article VI. — Spain, on signing the present treaty, shall place at liberty all 404 OFFICIAL TITLE TO OLE NEW POSSESSIONS IN THE INDIES. prisoners of war and all those detained or imprisoned for political offences in conse- quence of the insurrections in Cuba and the Phihppines and of the war with the United States. Reciprocally the United States shall place at liberty all prisoners of war made by the American forces, and shall negotiate for the liberty of all Spanish prisoners in the power of the insurgents in Cuba and the Philippines. The Government of the United States shall transport, at their cost, to Spain, and the Government of Spain shall transport, at its cost, to the United States, Cuba, Porto Rico and the Philippines, conformably to the situation of their respective dwellings, the prisoners placed or to be placed at liberty in virtue of this article. Article YII. — Spain and the LTnited States mutually renounce by the present treaty all claim to national or private indemnity, of whatever kind, of one Govern- ment against the other, or of their subjects or citizens against the other Government, which may have arisen from the beginning of the last insurrection in Cuba, anterior to the interchange of the ratifications of the present treaty, as also to all indemnity as regards costs occasioned by the war. The LTnited States shall judge and settle the claims of its citizens against Spain which she renounces in this article. Article VIII. — In fulfilment of Articles I., II. and III. of this treaty Spain renounces in Cuba and cedes in Porto Rico and the other West Indian isles, in Guam and . the Philippine archipelago, all buildings, moles, barracks, fortresses, establishments, public roads and other real property which by custom or right are of the public domain, and as such belong to the crown of Spain. Nevertheless, it is declared that this renouncement or cession, as the case may be, referred to in the previous paragraph, in no way lessens the property or rights which belong by custom or law to the peaceful possessor of goods of all kinds in the provinces and cities, public or private establishments, civil or ecclesiastical corporations or whatever bodies have judicial personality to acquire and possess goods in the above-mentioned, renounced or ceded territories, and those of private individuals, whatever be their nationality. The said renouncement or cession includes all those documents which exclusively refer to said renounced or ceded sovereignty which exist in the archives of the peninsula. When these documents existing in said archives only in part refer to said sovereignty, copies of said part shall be supplied, provided they be requested. Similar rules are to be reciprocally observed in favor of Spain with respect to the documents existing in the archives of the before-mentioned islands. In the above- mentioned renunciation or cession are comprised those rights of the crown of Spain and of its authorities over the archives and official registers, as well administrative as judicial, of said islands which refer to them and to tVi* rights and properties of their inhabitants. Said archives and registers must be refully preserved, and all OFFICIAL TITLE TO OUR XEW POSSESSIONS IX THE INDIES. 405 individuals, without exception, shall have the right to obtain, conformably to law, authorized copies of contracts, wills and other documents which form part of notarial protocols or which are kept in administrafive and judicial archives, whether the same be in Spain or in the islands above mentioned. Article IX. — Spanish subjects, natives of the peninsula, dwelling in the territory whose sovereignty Spain renounces or cedes in the present treaty, may remain in said territory or leave it, maintaining in one or the other case all their rights of property, including the right to sell and dispose of said property or its produces; and, moreover, they shall retain the right to exercise their industry, business or pro- fession, submitting themselves in this respect to the laws which are applicable to other foreigners. In case they remain in the territory they may preserve their Spanish nationality by making in a registry office, within a year after the interchange of the ratifications of this treaty, a declaration of their intention to preserve said nationality. Failing this declaration they will be considered as having renounced said nationality and as having adopted that of the territory in which they may reside. The civil rights and political status of the native inhabitants of the territories hereby ceded to the United States shall be determined by Congress. Article X. — The inhabitants of the territories whose sovereignty Spain renounces or cedes shall have assured to them the free exercise of their religion. Article XL — Spaniards residing in the territories whose sovereignty Spain- cedes or renounces shall be subject in civil and criminal matters to the tribunals of the country in which they reside, conformably with the common laws which regulate their competence, being enabled to appear before them in the same manner and to employ the same proceedings as the citizens of the country to which the tribunal belongs must observe. Article XII. — Judicial proceedings pending on the interchange of the ratifica- tions of this treaty in the territories over which Spain renounces or cedes sovereignty shall be determined conformably vdth the following rules: First, sentences pro- nounced in civil cases between individuals or in criminal cases before the above- mentioned date, and against which there is no appeal or annulment conformably with the Spanish law, shall be considered as lasting, and shall be executed in due form bv competent authority in the territory within which said sentences should be carried out. Second, civil actions between individuals which on the aforementioned date have not been decided shall continue their course before the tribunal in which the lawsuit is proceeding or before that which shall replace it. Third, criminal actions pending on the aforementioned date before the supreme tribunal of Spain against citizens of territory which, according to this treaty, will cease to be Spanish, shall con- tinue under its jurisdiction until definite sentence is pronounced, but once sentence 406 OFFICIAL TITLE TO OUE KEW POSSESSIONS IN THE INDIES. is decreed its execution shall be intrusted to competent authority of the place where the action arose. Article XIIL — Literary, artistic and industrial rights of property acquired by Spaniards in Cuba, Porto Eico, the Philippines and other territories ceded on the in- terchange of ratifications of this treaty shall continue to be respected. Spanish scientific, literary and artistic works which shall not be dangerous to public order in said territories shall continue entering therein with freedom from all customs duties for a period of ten years dating from the interchange of the ratifications of this treaty. Article XIV. — Spain may establish consular agents in the ports and places of the territories whose renunciation or cession are the object of this treaty. Article XV. — The Government of either country shall concede for a term of ten years to the merchant ships of the other the same treatment as regards all port dues, including those of entry and departure, lighthouse and tonnage dues, as it concedes to its own merchant ships not employed in the coasting trade. This article may be repudiated at any time by either Government giving previous notice thereof six months beforehand. Article XVL — Be it understood that whatever obligaiion is accepted under this treaty by the United States wdth respect to Cuba is limited to the period their occupation of the island shall continue, but at the end of said occupation they will advise the Government that may be established in the island that it should accept the same obligations. Article XVII. — The present treaty shall be ratified by the Queen Kegent of Spain and the President of the United States, in agreement and with the approval of the Senate, and ratifications shall be exchanged in Washington within a period of six months from this date or earlier if possible. The treat} of peace will be ratified by the Senate. It appears before ratification, as was the case of the protocol, through the favor of the French translations. The treaty fitly crowns the triumphs of the war. The payment of the small indemnity of twenty million dollars only covers at a reasonable estimate the public property of Spain, in territory ceded to us, that was beyond the lines of the areas that formally submitted to our arms.